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T

wad-s

HESIES

This is to certify that the
thesis entitled
A Comparison of Two Laundering Procedures
of knife Nylon blips

presented hg

beulah Loraine Davicson

has been accepted towards fulfillment

of the requirements for

A. A. degree in Textiles & Ulothing

  

   

ajor professor

h!

 

A COMPARISON OF TWO LAUNDERING
PROCEDURES FOR WHITE NYLON SLIPS

BY

Beulah Loraine Davidson

A THESIS
Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan
State College of Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts

1953

THESIS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation
to Miss Hazel B. Strahan, Head, Department of Textiles.
Clothing and Related Arts, Michigan State College, for
her guidance and supervision of this thesis; and to
Miss Sarah Brier, instructor in research, for her willing

assistance in the testing laboratory.

(RIF, 7-7” (3’) 1
‘ i. J- ' ‘ t
()1) ' an.

 

I.
II.
III.

IV.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . .
REVIEW OF LITERATURE .
MATERIALS AND METHODS .

A. ORGANIZATION OF THE STUDY .

B. LABORATORY TESTS
Twist . . . . . . .
Denier . . . . . .
Filament Count .
Course Count
Yarn Count

Thickness . . .

Weight per Square Yard

Bursting Strength
Breaking Strength .

Elongation . . . .
Abrasion . . . .
Drapability . .
Friction . . . . .
Color . . . . . .
DISCUSSION OF RESULTS .

A. ANALYSIS OF ORIGINAL FABRICS
B. PERFORMANCE TESTS ON ORIGINAL FABRICS
C. ANALYSIS OF FABRICS AFTER LAUNDERING

 

V.
VI.
VII.
VIII .

TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued)

CONCLUSIONS .

SUMMARY .

LITERATURE CITED

APPEN DIX

Table
I.
II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI.
VII.
VIII.

IX.

XI.
XII.

LIST OF TABLES

Original Specifications .

Original Performance
Original Performance

Coefficient of Kinetic Friction .

Yarn Count .

Weight per Square Yard
Thickness in Inches and Per Cent Change
Bursting Strength in Pounds

Change . .

Breaking Strength in Pounds and Per Cent

Change . .

Elongation in Per Cent

Abrasion . .

Drapability .

O

O

O

and Per Cent

32
34
55
37
39
41
45

54

59
60
62
64

Plate
1.

II.
III.
IV.

VI.

VII.

VIII.

IX.

XI.

XII.

LIST OF PLATES

Satin Slip Fabrics . .
TricotSlip Fabrics . . .
Cutting Chart Satin . .
Cutting Chart Satin . . .
Cutting Chart Tricot .
Cutting Chart Tricot . .

Shrinkage in Inches After
Launderings Satin . . .

Shrinkage in Inches After
Launderings Tricot . .

Resistance to Abrasion of
Laundered Satin . . . .

Resistance to Abrasion of
sat in O 0 O O 0 Q O O 0

Resistance to Abrasion of
Tricot . . . . . . . .

Resistance to Abrasion of
Laundered Tricot . . .

O O O O O 0

Thirty Five

Thirty Five

0 O O O O O 0

Machine

Hand Laundere

Hand Laundered

Machine

Page
74
75
76
77
78
79

80

81

82

85

LIST OF FIGURES AND CHARTS

Figures Page
I. Per Cent Change in Course Count . . . . . . . 40
II. Weight in Per Cent Change . . . . . . . . . . 43
III. Per Cent Whiteness on Color Wheels-Satin . . 47
IV. Per Cent Whiteness on Color Wheels-Tricot . . 48
V. Average Per Cent Dimensional Change-Satin . . 52
VI. Average Per Cent Dimensional Change-Tricot . 53
VII. Breaking Strength . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
VIII. Abrasion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Charts
I. Performance in Laundry . . . . . . . . . . . 86

II. Average Per Cent Dimensional Change in
Slips After Laundry . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

III. Vertical Dimensional Change of Satin . . . . 91

IV. Horizontal Dimensional Change of Satin 92

V. Vertical Dimensional Change of Tricot . . . . 93
VI. Horizontal Dimensional Change of Tricot . . . 94

IN TR ODUCT I ON

I. INTRODUCTION

The many new true synthetic fibers such as orlon,
acrilan, dynel, or nylon which we consumers enjoy today
may be considered dividends from the previous years
devoted to basic research. The technological deveIOp-
ments in the earlier semi-synthetics, rayon and acetate;
and much of the fundamental fiber research has been done
since the close of World War I. Since 1918 rayon and
acetate have undergone many improvements and have largely
replaced silk in many products. Nylon became available,
less than fifteen years ago and has, perhaps, had greater
growth in total production and acceptance by the trade
and consumer than any of the other fibers. The acceptance
of nylon for its many diversified uses is unquestionably
due to its inherent characteristics and performance in
use. Nylon's superior strength, abrasion resistance,
ease in care, retention of shape, draping qualities,
and chemical resistance are significant reasons for its
sensational rate of increase within a decade. Knit
construction has been particularly well accepted because
it permits evaporation of perSpiration better than the

woven lingerie fabrics.

Discoloration of white nylon lingerie washed with
synthetic detergents has, however, been a common complaint
among consumers. Repeated launderings seemed to result
in progressive grey or yellowish discoloration.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the
effect of two laundering procedures on the extent of
discoloration in white nylon tricot and white satin
slips. Comparison of dimensional change in the slips
by two methods of laundry; analysis and comparison of
physical prOperties and performance characteristics of
the new fabric with those same prOperties and character-
istics after laundering, constituted the other objectives
for this study.

For a more valid determination of total serviceability
expected from a garment, it would be desirable, in con—
junction with laboratory analysis to carry out a wear
study in which the garments would be subjected to normal
use and care. Since perspiration, body strain and other
factors affect serviceability and satisfaction in use,
wear studies are more inclusive of the variables involved
in a garment's performance and total serviceability.
Because wear studies involve a much longer period of time
for investigation, this study was limited to laboratory

analysis for determination of the effect of two different

methods of laundering on service qualities and color

change in white nylon tricot knit and white nylon satin.

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE

The development of nylon evolved when Du Pont
chemists began a new program of fundamental research in
1928. It is a classic case of a new material developed
in little more than one decade. The new fabric did not
receive the name “nylon“ until l958. It has won great
favor because of its strength and lightness; its wash-
'ability and quick drying qualities; its resistance to
wear; resilience and ability to hold its shape in use.
(12)

Du Pont, the sole producers of nylon yarn in the
United States at the present time is manufacturing
staple fiber and filament yarn at the combined rate
of 145,000,000 pounds per year, thirty three per cent
of which is going into military uses. Greater production
is expected in the future since the demand for it has
been greater than the available supply. (5)

Not only has nylon been used extensively for woven
lingerie but its use in tricot knit goods has increased
tremenduously in popularity since the close of World
War II. (34) By 1952 nylon has become the key word in
the tricot field because finished nylon tricot fabrics

have excellent stretch and recovery prOperties, softness,

5
drapability and porosity. (4) Tricot fabrics, prior to
the close of world War II were manufactured on a limited
scale. Celanese is generally credited with being the
pioneer in the manufacture of tricot goods for the under-
wear trade and mass market. The popularity of tricot
knit is shown by the Operation of more than 2400 tricot
machines in 1951, compared with 1100 in 1941. Nylon
fibers are, in general, stronger and smoother running
on the tricot machine than cotton or rayon. Nylon tricot
cloth can now be made satisfactorily on the new high
Speed machinery without the manufacturing defects which
plagued the knit wear industry when they tried to use
silk, cotton, rayon and acetate.

Factors such as dimensional stability or resistance
to distortion and creasing are the two most important
prOperties associated with high quality performance in
a textile material. In cotton goods, dimensional
stability is accomplished by methods based upon com-
pressive mechanical shrinkage. Regenerated cellulose
rayons, on the other hand, do not reapond well to this
type of treatment so some form of resin or chemical
stabilization is generally adOpted. Loom-state nylon
fabrics, like those made from other textile fibers;

hawea tendency to shrink. This shrinkage may be

eliminated by treatment with boiling aqueous liquors
during processing or in the process of setting. This
process of setting, besides imparting the required degree
of dimensional stability, is also capable of imparting a
permanent shape to nylon fabrics. This precludes the
formation of permanent creases during processing and

the finished fabric has resistance to distortion and
quick recovery from creasing. The setting of nylon may
be defined as the reduction or elimination of subsequent
yarn shrinkage. It enables the yarn to assume the con-
figuration in which it has been held during the setting
treatment. The degree of set or stability which is
achieved depends, to some extent, upon the degree of
shrinkage allowed during the setting procedure. Converse-
ly, subsequent yarn shrinkage after setting depends on
the severity of the processing procedures in setting as
well as the method of test for any subsequent shrinkage.
(16)

Studies relating to the service qualities of nylon
fabrics of significance to this investigation are relative-
ly few. Fletcher, Duensing, and Gilliam (8) of the Bureau
of Human Nutrition and Home Economics studied sixteen
fabrics, knitted to specification in the Bureau's

laboratory. Medium staple cotton, wool, filament rayon

7

and filament nylon constituted the four groups studied.
They found greatest dimensional change usually occurred
in the first laundering. All fabrics except the plated
nylon of forty courses per inch, exhibited considerable
lengthwise shrinkage. The nylon fabrics changed the
least in width of any of the four groups. Less length-
wise shrinkage occurred in the knit fabrics of forty
courses than those of thirty two courses per inch. (8)
Also it was found that knitted fabrics usually shrank
more in length than woven fabrics of similar fiber
content.

In another study, Fletcher and Roberts (9) observed
the geometry of knit fabrics made of staple rayon and
nylon and determined their relationships to shrinkage
in laundering. These fabrics were knit of the different
yarns under controlled conditions in the Textile Research
Department of the American Viscose Corporation. They
found nylon fabrics changed the least in both length and
width. All “grey" fabrics shrank more than ten per cent
in length in five launderings. All of the loosely knit
"grey” materials, except the plain knit nylon, stretched
excessively in width. Area shrinkage in all of the
"grey" fabrics and the finished viscose fabrics increased

with knitting stiffness. Area shrinkage in the finished

8
acetate-viscose, and nylon materials usually decreased as
the knitting stiffness increased.

Weiner (30) reported studies made on the effect of
knitting and finishing variables on the shrinkage of
typical Quartermaster Corps cotton underwear construction.
Factors analyzed were yarn count, knitting stiffness, and
stitch type in relation to reducing potential laundering
shrinkage. Since the dimensional stability of woven
fabrics is related to tightness of weave; fabrics with
well packed warp and filling yarns are subject to less
laundering shrinkage than the more Open weave structures.
Similarly it was found the lengthwise shrinkage of knit
fabrics was less severe when coarser yarns were used.
However, the use of heavier yarns resulted in greater
widthwise shrinkage. The improved control of lengthwise
shrinkage that occurred when heavier yarns were used may
be explained by the closer packing of the fibers and
yarns which takes place; resulting in increased fabric
density. Fabric weight was also increased by the use
of the heavier yarns. Tests made with different knitting
stiffness showed that those with the greater number of
courses per inch were subject to less lengthwise shrinkage
but to more shrinkage in width. For a given degree of

improvement in laundering stability, increasing the

9

number of courses per inch resulted in much less change
in width and weight of the fabric than increasing the
size of the yarn.

Alexandra and Sturley (1) investigated the influence
of twist on breaking load and breaking extension of
continuous multifilament nylon yarns and monofil. Com-
mencing with three-four S twists per inch, curves showing
twist against average breaking load for regular 50, 45,
and 60 denier multifilament yarns exhibited an increase
in breaking load to a maximum as additional twist was
inserted. Further insertion of twist showed the breaking
load decreased continuously to the limit of seventy twists
per inch. Twist setting the three-four S twists per
inch yarns, produced an increase in breaking load of
approximately five per cent.

The public relations department of E. I. Du Pont
De Nemours and Company suggests that fabrics made entirely
of nylon may be washed with the same soaps and synthetic
detergents used for general laundering, provided the dyes
and finishes are truly washable. Garments can either
be washed in warm sudsy water by hand or in the washing
machine. The latter method can be used satisfactorily
where there is no hazard of fraying. They stress the

fact that to keep white nylon white, it must be washed

IO

separately. Although colors in other garments may appear
to be fast, they often leave enough discoloration to bring
about an objectionable "off white" tinge to white nylon.
When washing white nylon in hard water a soap which softens
the water should be used to prevent the deposit of curds
of insoluble soap on the fabric which give white garments
a grey cast. (20) This grey cast particularly in cotton,
has been found to result from soil redeposition. Tests
have shown that many detergents have poor soil suspending
characteristics and permit the retention of soil over a
period of washings.

In a study conducted by Roseberry and McKee (17).
soil removal from nylon was observed in various procedures.
The study proposed to determine the best conditions for
washing nylon for maximum soil removal. Various detergents,
concentration of detergents and temperature of water were
used. They found that at a concentration of .075%, the
detergents could be ranked from best to poorest in the
following order: non-ionics, sulfonated amides, alcohol
sulfates, soaps and alkyl aryl sulfonates. At a .15%
concentration the order changed with soaps leading in
soil removal followed by the alcohol sulfates and alkyl
aryl sulfonates. At a .5% concentration the order is the

same as that at .15%. At .075% concentration the soil

ll
removal power of a built soap and non-ionic detergent
increases. Raising the temperature of the water from
120° to 130° F. resulted in significantly more soil .
removal in the built soap but no increase resulted from
further temperature increases. The effectiveness of the
non-ionic detergent continued to increase as the temper-
ature increased.

Leonard and Schwartz (14) report that in 1956 Krueger
made a microscopic study on the soiling of garments which
had been worn and showed the contamination of cotton
fibers in those garments by secretion from sweat glands
and hair. It was concluded from these experiments with
cotton fabrics of various constructions, that the degree
of soilage and resistance to its removal depends on the
solubility of the skin excretions and the nature of the
fabric construction. Open weaves permit dirt to penetrate
while surfaces that are close and even, and starched are
resistant to contamination. They also found that fine
fibers retain soil more readily than coarse fibers, and
that fibers with uneven cross-sectional contours retain
soil more readily than those with smooth circular contours.
Nylon belongs to the latter group.

Snell (22) reports the alky sulfates, sometimes

termed fatty alcohol sulfates, paved the way for

12
broadening the field of detergents. By 1950 they were
commercially successful. Coconut oil is the fat source
commonly used since it has the desired average chain
length of carbons. As with the alkyl aryl sulfonate,
some sodium sulfate is produced as a natural step in
manufacture. The cost of the active detergent is off-
set by building with about seventy five per cent of
other ingredients. This type also requires correction
in building to give good detergency on cottons. The
detergent used for this investigation contained about
twenty five per cent of the alkyl sulfate built with
sodium sulfate, a polyphOSphate and a few per cent of
carboxymethyl cellulose. This compound commercially
known as Tide is said to be a better detergent than soap
for washing cottons. Alkyl sulfates are more resistant
to hard water than alkyl aryl sulfonates. Snell further
states that synthetic detergents must be used under
Optimum conditions for the particular job to be done.
For example, strong agitation promotes any detergent
process. EXperimental work applying standard washing
procedures has shown that mechanical action alone
frequently does one-third to one half of the total

scouring.

13

In another study Snell (25) reported that soap would
always be used under the prOper conditions of water softness
and alkalinity for washing cotton. However, in studies
comparing soap with an alkyl aryl sulfonate, the latter
proved to be somewhat less effective than soap in washing
light weight silk dress fabrics, fiber glass textiles,
nylon knit goods, cotton, rayon, and rayon given crease
resistant finish. In some cases, differences were not
great between the soap and the detergent. Nylon was
washed easily by both.

Furry, McLendon, and Aler (ll) conducted a study to
determine the efficiency of soaps and synthetic detergents
for use in home laundering. Fifteen soaps, one soap
powder, and thirty five synthetics detergents were
evaluated for their effectiveness for removing soil
under standardized conditions. The change in light
reflectance produced in the laundering of artificially
soiled cotton fabric was used as a measure of the soil
removing efficiency of the different detergents. Samples
of the test fabric were laundered in the Launderometer
at 127° F and 840 F for fifteen minutes in distilled
water and in water of 150 and 500 parts per million
hardness at five different concentrations of the

detergent. It was found that the soaps removed

14
considerably more soil at 127° F in both distilled and
hard water than at 84° F. In hard water the synthetic
detergents, in a majority of cases, were more effective
than the soaps, especially at concentrations lower than
.55 per cent.

Snell (24) states that most of the research on
laundering textiles with synthetics detergents has been
carried out on either cottons or wool. The fiber's
physical nature enters into washing conditions in the
selection of Optimum temperature and pH of the wash
solution, but the fiber's chemical nature is more directly
related to the action of a particular detergent. ”When
synthetic textiles resemble neither the cellulose of
cotton nor the protein of wool; research investigations,
methods and conditions of scouring would be of great
value."

Relatively few serviceability studies on nylon slips
have been conducted to the present time. However, in
1949 Kroll and Williams made a study of snagging in nylon
tricot slips. They found that snagging in the slips
studied resulted from the wearer shaving her legs. The
stiff hairs pricked the nylon fibers. Why did the nylon
tricot slip show this snagging condition when it did

not appear in tricot slips made of other fibers? A

15

comparison of nylon with other fibers in knit tricot
indicated that the lOOped effect caused by snagging in
the nylon was a result of the strength and smoothness
of the individual nylon which permitted a pulling action.
With other fibers no lOOped conditions resulted because
the obstructions causing the snag easily broke the
individual filament. It was found, however, that
snagging could be decreased by increasing the denier
of the individual nylon filament to a point where the
stiff hair bent rather than pulled the filament. With
this thought in mind, slips were thereafter made of forty
denier — thirteen filament yarns where previously they
had been made of forty denier- thirty four filament yarn.
In other words the yarn size was increased to overcome
snagging.

Several studies of rayon slips have been made. In
1946 Rann (22) made a laboratory study of four different
brands of rayon crepe and rayon satin. The slips were
laundered thirty times. She found maximum shrinkage
occurred in the first laundering. Shrinkage was some-
what more progressive than the crepe as laundering was
continued. However, wider variation was found in the
measurements after launderings, due to the bias cut of

the garments. The results of her study indicated that

16

the measurements of a bias cut slip after laundering, are
highly dependent upon both laundering and the ironing
procedure. The average percent shrinkage which occurred
was sufficiently high to materially affect the fit of the
slip. Improved methods of shrinkage control were badly
needed for woven rayon slips. Tensile strength con-
sistently increased through the twentieth laundering.
Thereafter slight decreases in strength were noted.
Thompson (52) carried out a "wear" study on eighteen
rayon slips. Thirty three rayon slips of one style and
brand were purchased. Eighteen were worn by cooperators
engaged in similar occupations for 750 hours. Twelve
of them were laundered in the home and the other six
laundered in the laboratory under controlled procedures.
Six unworn slips were laundered in the laboratory and
served as laundered controls. Thompson found that yarn
count increased progressively through ten launderings
and, in some cases through twenty, tending thereafter
to stabilize or decrease. There was corresponding
increase in weight per Square yard. Warp breaking
strength loss was greater in the worn slips which were
laundered by the COOperators. The worn slips showed
significant evidence of deterioration; in fact a few

of the slips were ready to be discarded after thirty

17
launderings. The greatest deterioration was observed on
the inside of the double edge stitched bodice top, par-
ticularly across the back and underarm sections.

Bayor's (5) study compared the service qualities of
thirteen slips each in three different brands of rayon
warp knit. Two brands were two-bar tricot construction,
the other a single atlas. The study was carried out to
compare by laboratory tests, the physical properties
affecting dimensional change and serviceability in
repeated launderings. Inasmuch as shrinkage is a
characteristic problem in knit fabrics, a comparison
of fabric shrinkage and dimensional restorability by
the use of three different drying procedures was the
second aSpect of the study. There were obvious changes
in the slips as the number of launderings increased. In
each brand there was increase in wale and course count.
Weight and thickness of the fabric increased through the
fifteenth laundering and decreased thereafter. The same
pattern of increase and decrease occurred in bursting
strength. Two brands had a significant correlation

with the number of launderings.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

18

III. MATERIALS AND hETHODS
A. ORGANIZATION 0“ THE STUDY
Sglection of Slips

Six white nylon satin slips and six nylon tricot
slips were purchased in a local store in May, 1952, for
this laboratory study. The tricot slips were all of the
same design and ranged in sizes from 54 to 58. The satin
slips were also alike in design of sizes ranging from 12
to 16. The Barbizon satin slips cost $5.95 each and the
Vanity Fair tricot cost $4.95 each.

The satin slips were cut on the bias with a four
gore skirt construction. The side front and back were
cut in one piece to eliminate the side seam. (See plate
in appendix). The satin slips were lace trimmed and had
lapped zig zag stitched seams with pinked edges. The
tricot slips had a three gore skirt construction with
one gore across the front and two for the sides and back.
The seams used in the construction of the slips is referred
to in the knitting trade as a serged seam. This over-
edged seam is desirable for knitted garments because
this stitch permits more stretch without breaking. The

hens and tOp of the front and back bodice yoke were

19
double stitched. One slip of each type was kept as a
control. One each of the satin and tricot were divided
in half so that test samples for weight and color change
could be withdrawn at Specified intervals for each method
of laundering. The remaining eight slips were used for
physical testing after laundering. (See plates I and II in
appendix for samples of the original and laundered
fabrics.) Four slips were withdrawn after ten launderings
for physical testing. The four remaining slips were
carried through thirty five launderings. The slips were
soiled with a modified standard dry-soil mixture before
laundering and after each five subsequent launderings.
In order to make shrinkage determinations, each slip was
marked at Specified points. At Specified laundering
intervals, measurements were taken at these points and
recorded to the nearest one sixteenth of an inch.

The tricot slips were laundered according to a
modified procedure used by Bayor (5) in her study,
"Comparison of Some Physical Properties Affecting
Service Qualities of Three Brands of Rayon Warp Knit
Slips". The hand laundering procedure for the satin
consisted of wetting out the slip for three minutes and
then gently squeezing the suds through the fabric for

three minutes. The soap solution was made of one half

20

cup of detergent to eight gallons of water of 1100 1.50 F.
The water was gently squeezed from the slip, then rinsed
for two minutes in clear water at 1000 F followed by a
second and third two minute rinse. After the third rinse
the slip was rolled in a towel to remove excess moisture
and allowed to remain for thirty minutes. The slips were
then ironed with the heat control set on rayon (225° to
275° F). The iron was raised and lowered, or rather, no
pushing motion was used so as to minimize stretch. The
slips were then placed on a flat surface and allowed to
dry six hours before being measured. The tricot slips
were similarly laundered but dried differently; that is.
pulled to shape and freed of wrinkles then hung by the
straps until dry.

The machine laundering procedure was as follows:
The slips were run for fifteen minutes in an agitator
type washing machine. The same soap solution and amount
of water were used in the machine as used in hand launder-
ing. The temperature of the water, however, was 120°:
5° F. After gently squeezing the sudsy water from the
slips, they were rinsed for two minutes in clear water
at 1100 F. After the second rinse they were agitated
for five minutes in clear water of the same temperature.
They were dried in the same manner as the hand laundered

tricot slips.

21

measurement of the Garments

In order that shrinkage measurements be taken on the
slips at the same location at each interval, thread
markings were made at designated locations on each slip.
Three horizontal measurements were taken in both the
satin and tricot slips; namely, at the bust, waist and
hip. Six vertical measurements were taken in the tricot
center front, center back, side seams, and side front.
The seven vertical measurements in the satin were taken
at center front, side fronts, side seams, and side back.
Measurements at these points were taken following each
laundering through the fifth and again after the tenth,
twentieth, and thirty fifth. To take the linear measure-
ments the garment was placed over an ironing board. A
firm measuring tape was then placed on the slip closely
following the thread marked line. Care was taken not
to move the slip during the measuring procedure.
Measurement for that line was recorded and the slip
shifted to the next line for measurement. The same
procedure was followed for all linear measurements.

Due to the fact that knit goods and garments cut on the
bias stretch in handling; the width measurements were
taken across one half of the slip while it was lying flat
on the ironing board. This measurement was doubled and

recorded as the measurement for that horizontal line.

22

B. LABORATORY TESTS

The following tests were done under standard conditions
of 65% i 2 relative humidity and temperature of 72° 1 2° F.
Ifligp, The Suter Twist Tester was used to determine the
number and direction of twist in warp and filling yarns
according to the Flatt method. A five inch yarn ravelled
from the fabric was fastened into the tester so that a
three gram deflection load depressed it one eighth inch.
One yarn was twisted until broken, a second yarn untwisted
and then retwisted until broken. The following formula

was used in determining the twist per inch.

t - Nl - N2 :,2
2 L
N2 = number of turns to twist to rupture
N1 8 number of turns to untwist and retwist to rupture
T = total of number of turns in yarns
t 3 turns per inch
L = length of yarn used

An average of ten determinations each was computed as turns
per inch for warp and filling yarns reSpectively.

Dgnigr. The Universal Yarn Numbering Balance was used to
determine the denier according to the method and procedure
outlined in A. S. T. M. (2). Yarns ninety centimeters in
length from warp and filling, were measured with a steel
rule accompanying the instrument. Each yarn was then

looped and hung on the balance by a Single yarn in such

25
a manner that it was not touching any other part of the
instrument. The beam clamp was released and the index
pointer rotated until the beam was in balance. The index
pointer indicated denier. Ten determinations each for
warp and filling were recorded and the averages computed.
Filament Count. Filament count was made by placing a
yarn on a piece of black velvet. Five filaments were
counted and pinned to the velvet until the counting was
completed. The number of pins multiplied by five plus
any remaining filaments constituted the filament count
for that yarn. The average of the count of five yarns
from both warp and filling were recorded as filament count
for warp and filling respectively.
Course Cognt. The number of wales and courses per inch
were determined by counting a Space of two inches from
at least five different places on the fabric with a
Lowinson micrometer. The material was laid on a table
without tension while the wales and courses were counted.
The arithmetical average of five determinations, with no
two areas including the same set of courses or wales was
recorded as wale and course count.
Yarg Copnt. A Lowinson micrometer was used for counting
the number of yarns in an inch for both warp and filling.

Yarn count was recorded as the arithmetical average of

24

five determinations for each with the count taken from no
two areas including the same set of yarns.

Thickness. The thickness of each fabric was determined

by the use of the Scheifer Compressometer. A foot, one
inch in diameter, was lowered on the Specimen until one
pound of pressure was exerted. The thickness of the fabric
was recorded in inches. Three readings were taken on each
Specimen and the average computed. The thickness was
determined on the original, and again after the tenth

and twentieth launderings.

Wei ht in ces er S are Y r . Weight per Square yard
was determined in accordance with the method outlined in
A.S.T.M. (2). Five Specimens two inches square, were
taken at random from the fabric and weighed on a chainomatic
balance. The weight per Square yard was computed by the

following formula:

45.71 grams
Area in inches (20) = ounces per Square yard

Egrsting Stgength. Bursting Strength was determined in
accordance with the A.S.T.M. standard procedure. A Scott
Tensile Testing machine equipped with the ball bursting
attachment was the instrument of test. Five samples,

‘fOur and one fourth inches square were cut for determination
0f the dry bursting strength. The Specimens were inserted

aDdheld securely in a clamp mechanism.under a tension

25
which was uniform in all directions. The clamp mechanism
is 1.7500 inches in internal diameter. The center of the
Specimen was pressed against a polished steel ball 1.0000
inches in diameter until the Specimen burst. The direction
of the bursting motion of the ring clamp was at right angles
to the Specimen being burst. Five wet Specimens after
being immersed in water for two hours were burst in the
same manner as the dry. The average bursting strength
recorded for both wet and dry was the arithmetical mean
of the results of five tests for each.

Breaking Strength. Breaking Strength was determined on
the Scott Tester by the ravel strip method outlined in
A.S.T.M. (2). Ten Specimens each one and one fourth
inches by twelve inches were cut for both warp and filling
with the longer direction parallel to the yarns being
tested. Each strip was ravelled to one inch in width
with approximately the same number of yarns taken from
each Side. Test Specimens were then cut into two six

inch strips; one set for dry and the other for wet breaking
strength determinations. No two Specimens for warp or
filling contained the same set of yarns. The samples for
wet breaking strength were broken after immersion in
distilled water for a period of two hours. Specimens were

broken within two minutes after their removal from the

26
water. Recordings were made to the nearest one half pound.
The average of the ten readings each was recorded as the
dry and wet breaking strength in pounds for warp and filling.
Elongation. Elongation of the fabric was taken simultaneously
with tensile strength by the autographic recording device
on the Scott Tester. Elongation was calculated from the
start of the line on the tensile gram and an average of
ten determinations each for wet and try tests was recorded
as the average percentage increase in length for warp and
filling.

Abrasion. Resistance to abrasion was determined on the
Taber Abraser. Three Specimens five by five inches were
abraded with CS 10 Calibrase wheels under 500 grams
pressure. Specimens were abraded for determining first
sign of wear, arbitrarily defined as the first yarn

broken, and then to a hole; defined as the rupture of

two yarns at right angles to each other. The remaining

two Specimens were abraded to a constant number of cycles.
The constant number was arbitrarily determined; falling
within the maximum and minimum range of cycles for first
Sign of wear and a hole.

Drapgbility. The drapability of the fabrics was determined
on an improvised drapemeter patterned after the one deveIOped

by John H. Skinkle and Arthur J. Moreau (21). The drapemeter

27
consisted of two ring stands supporting a horizontal rod
on which three, two and one half inch paper clips hung.
A second ringstand with a clamp held a millimeter rule
exactly 100 millimeters below the jaws of the paper clamps.
Three Specimens 100 by 250 millimeters each for warp and
filling with the short dimensions parallel to the set of
yarns being tested were folded lengthwise with the face
of the fabric on the convex side, and placed in the clamp
one fourth inch below the end of the fabric. The fabric
was allowed to hang undisturbed for two minutes. The
millimeter scale was then moved to the two edges of the
fabric on the concave side and the chord length read in
millimeters. Since the Specimen was 100 millimeters in
width, the reading would also be the percentage of the
width. The arithmetical averages for each set of warp
and filling yarns were determined and the geometric mean
of each was computed and recorded.
ngction. The instrument of test for determining the
kinetic friction of the slip fabrics against another
fabric, was the Dreby Friction Meter. Test method and
procedure of the A.S.T.M. (2) was used. A sample of the
fabric, four by twelve inches, was laid face down on the
polished horizontal surface under a polished one pound

weight, three by three and one half inches. A sample

28
of the same size as the other fabric was attached to the
drum and withdrawn at a speed of about thirty inches per
minute. 0n turning the drum, the lower sample was with-
drawn imparting a frictional drag to the upper sample which
was recorded on the dial. Readings from the dial were
recorded as the unit coefficient of kinetic friction.
9212;, A disk colorimeter was used in color tests. The
disks were made of two neutral colors and two other colors.
For this problem, complimentary colors of the Munsell
Color System were used. The disks were cut from Standard
Munsell papers. These disks had a radial slit extending
from a center perforation to the circumference, so that
two or more discs might be interonen, with a portion
of each remaining visible. The disks were placed on a
motor and Spun rapidly enough to eliminate flicker. The
color resulting from this mixture depended upon the relative
amounts of the exposed areas of the several disks used.
All colors which lie within the region bounded by the
colors of the disks could be matched by the mixture. The
measurement was recorded in terms of the exposed proportions
of the disks in the matching mixture. Five readings for
each sample were taken and the average calculated. Tests
were made on the original fabric and after each five

subsequent launderings.

DISCUSSION OF RESULTS

29

IV. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS

A. ANALYSIS OF ORIGINAL FABRICS

An analysis of the results of physical testing of
the new fabrics and those laundered both by hand and by
machine was made to determine significant differences or
Similarities in the two methods of laundry. The physical
tests carried out on the new fabrics were yarn analysis
consisting of denier, filament count, and twist; and fabric
analysis for weight per square yard, yarn and course count,
bursting strength, breaking strength and elongation,

abrasion, friction, drapability and color change.

Fiber Contegt

MiSOrOSCOpic and chemical analysis were made to verify
the fiber content of the slips. The fibers were immersed
in a ninety per cent phenol solution in which nylon is
soluble. From the reaction Obtained it was concluded both

the slip fabrics were 100 per cent nylon.

Xarn Analysis

Analysis of the yarn of the satin slips included denier,
filament count and number of twists per inch. Due to the
construction of the fabric, it was not possible to analyze

the yarns of the tricot. However, the tricot was sold as

50
having been made of thirty denier yarns. The warp and
filling yarns in the satin were almost identical in denier
and filament count; denier of forty four and forty six
reSpectively in the warp and filling. Filament count was
thirty four for the warp and thirty three in the filling
yarns.

In determination for twists per inch, it was found
that the filling yarns had about five times as many twists
as the warp with eighteen turns per inch. Both warp and
filling were given a Z twist. Alexandra and Sturley (1)
found that with an addition of twist the breaking Strength
increased to a maximum but further insertion of twist
resulted in breaking load decreases continuously to the

limit of twist or seventy turns per inch.

Yarn Coun§

The satin fabric was not a balanced construction; the
ratio of warp to filling being one to two and one half;
characteristic in satin constructions. The warp yarn count

was 295; the filling 129 yarns per inch.

Course Copnt
In the tricot fabrics, there were almost twice as
many wales as courses per inch. The original wale count

was fifty five and the course count thirty per inch.

51

Weight in Ouncesgper Square Eggg

The weight per square yard was calculated from samples
which had been conditioned for at least four hours under
Standard conditions for testing textiles. Original weights
of both the satin and tricot were Similar, varying only
one tenth of an ounce. The satin and tricot weighed two
and one half ounces and two and four tenth ounces per square
yard. Although the satin was slightly heavier in the
original; that was due, in part, to soluble sizing. This
assumption is later substantiated as the satin became
progressively lighter after laundering while the tricot

increased progressively in weight.

Thickness

Original thickness measurements Showed the tricot
approximately forty per cent thicker than the satin.
Original values were .0105 inches for the tricot and
.0061 inches for the satin. This does not parallel weight
differences Since both the tricot and satin were of approxi-
mately the same weight. The satin was compact in structure
with a high yarn count. The lOOped construction of tricot

was reSponSible for its greater thickness.

52

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33
B. PERFORMANCE TESTS ON ORIGINAL FABRICS

Color

In the original fabrics the satin had a ninety five

per cent whiteness and the tricot had eighty six per cent.

figgaking Strength

The dry warp breaking strength of the new satin fabric
was more than twice that of the filling; dry strength of
seventy two pounds in the warp and thirty one in the filling.
While the wet breaking strength was lower than dry, its
ratio of warp to filling strength was the same as the dry.
One of the Significant features of nylon is its high wet-
dry strength relationship -- wet strength being eighty to
ninety per cent of dry. The nylon satin in this study was
approximately eighty per cent of dry which falls within
the eXpected range. The fifty Six pounds wet strength of
the warp was likewise approximately eighty per cent of its

dry strength.

Elongation

The per cent elongation of the new satin fabric was
approximately the same for both warp and filling. Dry
elongation was twenty three per cent and twenty two per

cent for warp and filling reSpectively.

54
TABLE II

Original Performance

 

 

 

 

Percent
White- 2 3 Bursting
Bess on Breaking Stgength Elongation Strength4
olor Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet
Wheeil w F‘ 'TT“"TF" w r w P
105.4 88.4
Tricot 86

Satin 95 71.8 50.9 55.6 25.8 25.48 21.8 20.75 18.59

 

lAve. of 5 determinations

2Ave. of 10 determinations

5Ave. of 10 determinations

4Ave. of 5 determinations
Abrasion

There is, as yet, no standard method in performing and
evaluating abrasion tests as test results obtained from different
instruments Show considerable variation. Skinkle (21) states
that in many cases, the order of resistance of fabrics to
abrasion is also the same as the order of wear; but in many
cases, the order is different. Fletcher and Gilliam (10)
tested four rayon fabrics used in women's slips to determine
whether the laboratory abrasion test could be used as predictive
of wear. They found that the relative performance of garments
made from rayon crepe Similar in construction, can be predicted

from laboratory tests of the abrasion resistance of the fabric

from which they are made.

55

In the tricot fabrics, the first Sign of wear occurred
at 150 cycles. Before an actual hole appeared in the satin,
610 wear cycles were run, which is approximately three times
the number for the tricot. However, apparent abrasion of
the long floats before the first hole appeared rendered the
fabric Objectionable.in appearance to the extent that the
wearer would consider it worn out. In fact, it was worn

out in the direction of the warp.

Drapability
The drapability of the tricot could not be computed

since the reading in the filling direction was zero, which
indicated excellent draping qualities. The drapability
value for the satin fabric was twenty one which indicated

that the satin also had good draping qualities.

TABLE III

Original Performance

 

 

Cycles of Abragioni Drapabilitfz
First Sign in mm

of Wear lee

150.0 286.0 0

240.0 610.0 21.55

 

1Ave. of 5 determinations
2Ave. of 5 determinations

56
minim

One sample each for the friction test of both the
satin and tricot were cut with the longer dimension in
the direction of the warp, the filling, and bias of the
cloth. Each of the slip fabrics were tested against both
warp and filling of the following fabrics: velveteen,
corduroy, and orlon pile fabrics; rayon, silk and wool
crepe; flannelette, wool flannel, and wool tweed; rayon,
wool, cotton warp knits; and sateen and rayon satin.

The face of the nylon satin and tricot knit were
placed against the back of the different fabrics as would
occur in wear. The greatest friction occurred in both
warp and filling of the fourteen fabrics considered when
tested against the filling of either the tricot or satin.
Lowest friction was evidenced in both the warp and filling
determinations of these fabrics when tested against the
warp of either the tricot or satin. Test results Showed
the friction values for the bias strips fell between high
and low values recorded for the warp and the filling.

When tested against the crosswise direction of the
tricot friction drag from high to low ranked as follows:
napped fabrics, crepe weaves, pile fabrics, knitted
constructions, and satin weaves. When tested against
the filling of the nylon satin, ranking was the same

except for a reversal in the ranking of the knitted and

satin weave groups. Rankings were similar for the nylon

satin and nylon tricot.

Coefficient of Kinetic Friction“

TABLE IV

57

 

 

 

 

Tricot Satin _:t
Warp Filling, Bias Warp Filling Bias
Velveteen warp .59 .58 .45 .26 .47 .597
filling .595 .477 .58 .26 .49 .59
Corduroy warp .595 .55 .41 .28 .49 .405
filling .58 .60 .45 .27 .52 .405
Orlon warp .21 .52 .25 .18 .56 .26
filling .52 .24 .25 .25 .21 .217
Rayon
Crepe warp .59 .55 .42 .22 .44 .554
filling .41 .61 .42 ,22 .45 .402
Silk Crepe warp .50 .55 .28 .24 .28 .29
filling .217 .71 .26 .18 .676 .545
Wool Crepe warp .55 .45 .58 .25 .55 .595
filling .515 .51 .585 .257 .495 .595
Cotton
Flannel warp .57 .477 .40 .26 .42 .597
filling .56 .51 .59 .26 .42 .407
Wool warp .425 .625 .45 .25 .58 .417
Flanneliilling .46 .62 .46 .25 .56 .407
Wool Tweed warp .455 .605 .46 .26 .51 .405
filling .445 .59 .46 .25 .525 .405
Rayon Knit warp .21 .595 .267 .17 .20 .54
filling .295 .19 .27 .17 .59 .26
Wool Knit warp .55 .485 .55 .21 .45 .52
filling .55 .45 .54 .21 .425 .517
Cotton warp .46 .597 .427 .29 .527 .455
Knit filling .457 .587 .427 .295 .62 .465
Cotton
Sateen warp .40 .577 .40 .24 .59 .427
filling .40 .555 .42 .51 .57 .47
Rayon warp .187 .50 .195 .15 .557 .255
Satin filling .195 .25 .18 .157 .555 .21

 

*Average of 5 determinations

58

In all cases filling friction values were higher than
warp values; bias values falling between. These tests
substantiate the desirability of slips out on the warp
because there is less friction encountered than against
the bias or crosswise grain. This suggests that bunching
and sticking of the Slip under different types of garments
is due to the friction encountered. Variation in bunching
et cetera is due to the weave construction of the two fabrics
coming in contact with each other rather than to their fiber

content.
C. ANALYSIS OF FABRICS AFTER LAUNDERING

Zgrn Count

Changes in yarn count were less than two per cent
throughout the laundering procedures. In hand-laundering
the warp yarn count decreased slightly throughout the first
ten launderings to 1.8 per cent or five yarns. The filling
showed progressive increase with a terminal gain of 1.7
per cent.

More erratic changes occurred in machine-laundry than
in hand-laundry. During the first ten launderings the warp
count decreased whereas the filling increased. During the
next twenty five launderings the warp increased. Terminal
count for the warp was 1.5 per cent higher than the original.

Filling count remained practically the same as the original.

59

 

 

 

TABLE V
Yarn Count*
Satin
WSI‘D , _ E 1,1,]. i ng )-
No. Method Number Number
L of Laundry Per Inch .%.Ch Per Inch .% Ch
0
Hand 295.0 129.4
Machine 295.0 129.4
10
- Hand 292.5 -.l7l 150.0 + .46
Machine 289.2 -l.50 150.0 +- .46
55
Hand 298.4 +-1.84 151.6 ‘t 1.70
Machine 296.8 +-l.50 129.6 -+ .15

 

*Average of 5 determinations

Course Count

In both methods of laundering, the tricot increased in
wale and course count. This increase may be accounted for,
in part, by its two to three per cent horizontal shrinkage.
Maximum shrinkage occurred in the first ten launderings
with slight change in the remaining twenty five. Terminal
increase for both wale and course count was 5.5 per cent
in hand-laundry. In the machine-laundry procedure increase
was six per cent in wale count and five per cent in course
count. The ratio of wales to courses was practically un-

changed by either method of laundering. The increased

40
count in the machine-laundered tricot cannot be explained
on a basis of shrinkage for they shrank less than the
hand-laundered Slips. Area change by either method was
Slight and not apparent insofar as general appearance and

hand were concerned.

FIGURE I

Per Cent Change in Course Count

Wales Courses

 

 

Hand Laundry ~——— ———~
7% Machine Laundry __~. -_._
7 - v
a - ”J-
5 - /j:'::________
x”
‘9 - /’
//
3 - //
. x/
.h‘
I
+' h,
o I I
lo 3!

Launderln75

41
TABLE VI

Weight Per Square Yard
In Ounces and Per Cent Change

No. Method

L of Laundry Satin Tricot

 

 

oz. sq.jd. 9?. Ch oz. scL. yd. fCIL
0
Hand 2.4999 2.55
Machine 2.4999 2.55
5
Hand 2.4729 -l.08 2.50 + 6.45
Machine 2.4959 - .24 2.48 + 5.24
10
Hand 2.475 - .96 2.51 f 6.76
15
Hand 2.4555 -l.78 2.49 ‘f 6.01
Machine 2.4795 - .816 2.48 '+ 5.47
20
Hand 2.4821 - .71 2.52 ‘+ 7.05
Machine 2.5252 +'l.012 2.51 + 6.52
25
Hand 2.4921 - .51 2.57 -+ 9.15
Machine 2.5049 +' .200 2.55 -+ 7.58
50
Hand 2.4519 -l.92 2.59 + 10.25
Machine 2.5156 '+ .628 2.54 +- 8.09
55
Machine 2.5555 +-2.144 2.56 -+ 9.02

 

Average of 5 determinations

42

Weight Per Sguare Yard

By either method of laundering, the tricot gained
weight progressively. The hand-laundered tricot showed
slightly greater gain than the machine-laundered. This
might be expected inasmuch as the shrinkage in the hand-
laundered garments was slightly greater. Greatest change
took place in the first ten launderings. Terminal weight
gain was ten per cent for the hand-laundered knit slips
and nine per cent for the machine-laundered tricot slips.
This gain in weight correlates with the gain in thickness.

Erratic weight changes were noted in the satin fabrics
although it was less than two per cent throughout the series
of launderings. This fabric followed the same pattern of
weight change in both laundering methods for the first
twenty launderings. The satin decreased in weight in the
first fifteen launderings. Thereafter the satin showed
a gain in weight when machine-laundered and loss of weight
when hand-laundered. Terminal change, however, was only
two per cent increase in machine-laundering and one per
cent decrease in the hand-laundry procedure.

Weight change by either laundry method was slight
for the satin but was five times greater for the tricot.
However, even this ten~ per cent increase did not appreciably

affect the appearance or body of the fabric.

FIGURE II

Weight in Per Cent Change

% f/ \ Hand Laundry

Io.a * /

Machine Laundry

20
z:— ,5 I

£0“ ’ ’
/

25. 1‘ //

7o - '3 I I,

6.5 h

I'
60' J" \

50?
as. I

4.0-

3.5-:

3.0 "

3.5 .(‘I '
1.0 .; ,
L:% W ’

1.5- I \ x

1.0 "
1.5 -

 

05101530353035

Launderings

45

Satin Tricot

44
Thickness

Original thickness measurements, showed the tricot
to be approximately forty per cent thicker than the satin.

Either laundry method resulted in gain in thickness
for the tricot; this gain occurring in the first ten
launderings, with no change in subsequent launderings.
Thickness gain in the hand-laundry procedure was approxi-
mately three times greater than in the machine-laundry
method. Terminal increase was seven per cent in hand-
launderings and two per cent in machine launderings.
This increase in thickness undoubtedly resulted from
greater shrinkage which occurred in the hand-laundry
method.

The satin also evidenced thickness gain in hand-
laundry, Greatest change likewise took place in the
first ten launderings with no change thereafter; with
a terminal decrease in thickness of fifteen per cent.
The machine-laundered satin slips lost approximately
four per cent in thickness in the last twenty five
launderings. The tricot, by both methods of laundry;
and the hand-laundered satin showed no change after the
first ten launderings.

It would have been expected that the fabric showing

highest gain would also have shown greater shrinkage but

45
this was not true in the case of either fabric. The nylon
satin increased more in thickness than the tricot which
had three times as much shrinkage. The laundering method
seemingly affected thickness change inasmuch as thickness
increase in the satin was twice that of the tricot in the
hand-laundered method and six times greater than the tricot

which was machine-laundered.

TABLE VII

Thickness in Inches and Per Cent Change*

 

 

 

Method Tricot .1; Satin
No.9 of Laundry Std. Thickness %;Change Std. Thickness % Change
0
Hand .0105 .0061
Machine .0105 .0061
10
Hand .0110 6.80 .0070 +l4.75
Machine .0105 1.94 .0071 +16.59
55
Hand .0110 6.80 .0070 +14.75
Machine .0105 1.94 .0068 +ll.47

fiAverage of 5 determinations

Color Change

In order to determine the degree of whiteness of the
original nylon satin and tricot the disk colorimeter method
was used. The color measurement was recorded in terms of the

per cent amount of whiteness. The original satin fabric

46
rated ninety five per cent whiteness on the color wheels.
After the first five launderings, there was a seven per
cent decrease in whiteness in the hand-laundered slips and
nine per cent decrease in the machine-laundered. There was
no further color change by either method in the subsequent
fifteen launderings. After the twentieth laundering, an
additional decrease in whiteness of one per cent was noted
for the hand-laundered satin. The hand-laundered satin,
at the termination of the study, had lost eight per cent
in whiteness. The machine-laundered satin lost seven per
cent so change in color was similar by either method of
laundering for the satin.

The tricot fabrics had an eighty six per cent whiteness
rating, or nine per cent lower than the satin. In the first
five hand-launderings three per cent loss in whiteness was
noted. After twenty five launderings, loss was four per
cent but thereafter the degree of whiteness increased so
that at the termination of the study the tricot was only
two per cent more greyed than when new. The tricot in the
machine-laundry procedure lost five per cent of its white-
ness in the first five launderings, with erratic change at
subsequent laundering intervals. Terminal loss was the
same as that after only five launderings.

The tricot knit fabrics retained their original

whiteness better when laundered by hand than by machine.

47

FIGURE III

Per Cent Whiteness on Color Wheel

Satin

Hand Laundry

,Machine Laundry azz

 

 

///////////¢//////////
zZ/ZZZ/ZZZZ

 

 

 

 

ZZ/Z/Z/ZZ/Z/Z/Z

 

 

 

/////////////////////////

 

V/ZZZ/Z/ZZ/Z,

ZZZ/ZZZ??? “
//////////////////////// ,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7o

95*

94-

72'

11+

W's

9w“

11"

92“

87
f6 ~
1:
y;
,3 -
)1.
il

9

La.ur\J<:rlv17.$

48

FIGURE IV

Per Cent Whiteness on Color Wheel

Tricot

[:1

Hand Laundry

Machine Laundry

 

 

ZZZZZ i

 

ZZZ/Z/ .
ZZZ
///////////M

 

 

 

 

I: 10 3‘3

 

 

 

 

 

 

ZZZ/ZZZ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1“

95'.

74-

L.ac1rzd ev'lrfl75

49
In the case of the satin slips the method of laundry made
no appreciable difference in the extent of change. The
change in color in the first five launderings of the satin,
may be due to loss of dye which had been used in finishing
the fabric. The lower whiteness of the tricot may be due
to the fact that it had not been dyed in the finishing
process, or to the light reflectance differences between

satin and knit constructions.

Dimensional Chgngg

During both hand and machine laundering, change in
vertical measurements of the satin was slight; less than
one per cent. The greatest change occurred during the
first five launderings, after which the change was less
than one half of one per cent. Terminal vertical shrinkage
was negligible in both laundering procedures. Horizontal
shrinkage was greater; ranging from less than one to
approximately two per cent. Since these slips were made
on the bias, this variation could be due to the difficulty
in making accurate measurements. The ironing method could
also have affected dimensional differences, too. The
greatest dimensional change occurred during the first
five launderings by either method. Thereafter, the fabric
stretched slightly. However, the terminal shrinkage was

only one per cent in hand-laundering and approximately

50
the same in machine-laundering. This amount of shrinkage
would not be considered objectionable.

Vertical shrinkage in the tricot was similar to that
in the satin. Shrinkage was less than one per cent through-
out the series of thirty five launderings for either method.
Greatest change occurred in the first five launderings but
terminal vertical shrinkage was negligible by either method.
In both laundering procedures the fabrics continued to
shrink in width until the study was terminated. There was
a total shrinkage in width of three and four tenths per
cent by hand, and three per cent in machine-laundering.
Inasmuch as there was almost negligible change in the last
twenty five launderings by either method; it would indicate
that in any further launderings they would not show
appreciable change. Rann (20) found that the acetate
satin shrank widthwise two and one half per cent in the
first laundering and a total of five per cent after twenty
launderings. However, the lengthwise measurements showed
three per cent stretchage after twenty launderings. In the
nylon satin it was found that greatest shrinkage occurred
in the first five launderings but total lengthwise shrinkage
was negligible even after thirty five launderings by either

hand or machine method.

51

Bayor (5) found that the two-bar rayon tricot slips
shrank a total of over eight per cent widthwise when
dried flat or on a rod. The average linear shrinkage
after twenty launderings was five per cent when dried
flat and three per cent when dried over a rod. The rayon
slips that were dried flat had decided dips at the under-
arm seams and a rise in both the center front and back
sections. The slips dried on the rod were obviously
longer, this being due to stretchage which resulted from
the natural action of the weight of the slip on itself.

The slips made of acetate shrank nineteen per cent
in width when dried flat and over a rod. In the linear
measurements there was one per cent stretchage when dried
flat and five tenths per cent stretchage when dried over
a rod. The acetate slips hung more evenly than the rayon
in Spite of the large percentage of widthwise shrinkage.

In contrast to the acetate and viscose, the nylon in
this study had a three per cent shrinkage in the width
measurements and a negligible amount lengthwise. The
dimensional change in the nylon slips seemed to be
consistent throughout the garment which resulted in a
more even hem line than was evidenced in the rayon and

acetate.

’70
I. 5

[.0

52
FIGURE V

Average Per Cent Dimensional Change
Tricot

Vertical Horizontal
Hand Laundry .____ all“-
Machine Laundry .___n __ w"

 

 

 

 

1.1345 I0 la 35-

Launderings

53

FIGURE v1 .

Average Per Cent Dimensional Change

Satin
Vertical Horizontal
Hand Laundry .____. ___ii
Machine Laundry .._..- _.,i-
56
no -
1.5 .
Lo -

 

 

 

 

Jlll]
[334-5 [0

Launderings

54
TABLE VIII

Bursting Strength in
Pounds and Per Cent Change*

 

 

 

Tricot
No. of Hand Laundry Machine La ndr
Laundry ~42:37 .% Ch Wet .iICh '7EEF'_—767fi?“”%%§?JL—EZ7EE
'0 105.4 88.4 105.4 88.4
10 94.4 - 8.7 91.6 -+ 5.6 95.0 - 8.1 87.2 - 1.4
55 75.6 -26.9 66.4 -24.9 81.4 -21.5 76.8 -l5.l

 

‘6‘

Average of 5 determinations

Bursting Strength

There was progressive decrease in dry bursting strength
in either method of laundry. At withdrawal intervals, decrease
was somewhat greater in the hand-laundered which is inconsistent
with their higher shrinkage. At the termination of the study,
dry bursting strength loss was twenty seven per cent by the
hand-laundered procedure and twenty one per cent by machine-
laundering. Wet bursting strength showed progressive decrease
in strength when laundered in the machine; from one per cent
in ten launderings but a terminal loss of thirteen per cent.
In the hand-laundered procedure, there was a gain of more
than three and one half per cent in ten launderings, but a
terminal loss of twenty five per cent. Thus dry strength
loss, by either method was higher than wet strength loss.

Both wet and dry strength loss was greater in hand-laundering

55
than in machine. However, at the termination of the study
wet strength was eighty eight per cent of the dry in the
hand-laundering method and ninety-five per cent in the
machine-laundered. This falls within the usual dry-wet
ratio for nylon.

Bayor (5) found that acetate tricot had about one-third
of its dry strength when wet; and rayon less than half of
its dry strength. It is interesting to note that the
original dry bursting strength of the acetate tricot in
Bayor's study was twenty nine and one half pounds and wet
strength, twenty two pounds. The rayon knit strength was
about forty four pounds with wet strength of twenty two
pounds as contrasted to the nylon tricot in this study
which burst at one hundred and three pounds when dry; and
eighty eight pounds when wet. In the rayon and acetate
the bursting strength increased slightly in laundering
while the nylon in this study showed decrease in bursting
strength. This is accounted for by the much greater

shrinkage in the rayon and acetate tricot.

fireaking Strength
Both wet and dry breaking strength in the warp of
the original satin fabrics were more than twice that of

their filling strengths.

56

Warp and filling dry strengths increased progressively
during the thirty five hand-launderings, to a terminal
increase of forty five and thirty two per cent reSpectively
for warp and filling. The machine-laundered samples showed
increased dry strength during the first ten launderings
for both warp and filling. In subsequent launderings,warp
strength continued to increase while filling strength
decreased. Terminal strength values for the warp were
fifty one per cent higher than the original; fifteen per
cent higher in the filling. Increase in dry warp strength
was greater than filling strength increase, by either method
of laundry.

During the first ten launderings, there was increased‘
wet breaking strength for both warp and filling in both
laundering procedures. In the hand-laundered garments,
filling strength continued to increase while warp strength
decreased. However, in the fifteen subsequent machine-
launderings, there was a reversal, the warp strength
increasing and the filling strength decreasing sharply.
Terminal wet strength increase was greater warpwise than
in the direction of the filling in both laundering procedures.
However, warp increase was slightly greater in the machine-
laundered. The warp-filling ratio in strength was approxi-

mately the same for the new fabric as after thirty five

57
hand-launderings. Warp strength gains of the machine-
laundered was approximately three times greater than
filling gain at the termination of the study; a three to
one strength ratio.

According to Hahn's (20) study, the acetat satin
had a dry warp breaking strength of twentyfbur pounds,
and thirty three pounds in the filling. Warp wet breaking
strength was approximately ten pounds and filling strength
eleven pounds. The significantly lower wet strengthsin
both the acetate and rayon satins substantiates the
predictive durability of the nylon satin as far superior

to either acetate or rayon.

58

FIGURE VII

Strength

In Per fient Change

Breakin

Satin

Warp Filling

Hand Laundry Ill

ZZZ

 

 

 

Machine Laundry m

 

 

 

 

 

 

V//

 

’7.
7o
‘5'
‘o
55' p
5b
#5
4O
55
30
25'

   

 

/ /

 

ZZZ}

no

r:

to
I

o

Launderings

 

Launderings

(_

 

wet

Dry

TABLE IX

Breaking Strength in
Pounds and Per Cent Change*

 

 

 

Satin
No. Hand Laundry Machine Laundry
L warp finch Filling % Ch Warp :2: Ch Filling y. en
0 Dry 71.8 50.9 71.8 50.9
.Ivet 550 6 230 8 550 6 250 8
10
Dry 97.9 +'56.5 52.6 i- 5.7 87.5 -r21.9 45.6 + 41.5
Wet 85.4 + 50.0 51.8 +-5 .6 81.4 ~+46.4 59.0 + 64.1
55
Dry 105.9-+ 44.7 40.8 + 52.0 108.7 +-El.4 55.7 +-15.5
7.7813 78.5 + 4102 3505 + 40.8 8406 +5202 2501 + 505

 

wAverage of 10 determinations

Elongation

Elongation was not determined on the fabrics after
thirty five launderings inasmuch as their greater breaking
strength necessitated the use of a Scott tester which had
no elongation attachment. Elongation in the original fabrics
was higher when tested dry than wet with warp values slightly
higher than filling values. However, differences between
wet and dry elongation values for both warp and filling were
under three per cent. In the hand-laundry procedure there
was an increase of thirty nine per cent in dry elongation
in the warp and nine per cent in the filling. Wet elongation

per cent increase in the warp was fifty one per cent and

60
twenty seven for the filling. Conversely, both wet and
dry warp elongation decreased in machine-laundering with
greatest loss in dry elongation. Filling elongation
increased in both wet and dry tests; wet elongation being
greater than dry. Change in elongation resulting from
laundering, widened the difference between wet and dry
determination for both warp and filling. After thirty
five hand-launderings the garments had approximately ten
per cent higher warp than filling elongation. The reverse

was true in the machine-laundered fabrics.

TABLE X

Elongation in Per Cent*

 

 

 

 

Satin
No. Hand—La» dryg Machine La n J—
L Warp;_i Ch Filling, % Ch Wagp Z Ch Filligé Z CE
0 Dry 23.5 21.8 23.5 21.8
Wet 20. 73 18.6 20.7 18.6

10
Dry 52.

6 + 5900 2307 + 807 2006 -1203 3004 +3905
Wet 51.4 +-51.5

2507 +2704 1908 - 404 3000 +6102

 

*Average of 10 determinations

Abrgsion

In hand-laundering, the tricot evidenced increased
abrasion resistance resulting from the first ten launderings

but was followed by a decrease in abrasion resistance in

61
subsequent launderings. After ten launderings there was
an increase in wear cycles of fifteen per cent for the
first sign of wear and fifty per cent to the first hole.
However, in the twenty five launderings which followed
there was a significant decrease (+'15 to-t5) for first
sign of wear; from (+-50 to -5) for evidence of a hole.

Decrease in abrasion resistance in the machine-washed
tricot was not as great in the first ten or in subsequent
launderings as decrease in the hand-laundered tricot slips.
In the last twenty five machine-launderings abrasion
resistance was three per cent greater for first sign of
wear than on the new.fabric. This increased abrasion
resistance parallels the shrinkage which occurred in the
tricot. (See Plate x1, x11,pp. 84, 85)

The satin slips decreased two per cent in their
abrasion resistance for first sign of wear but increased
twenty nine per cent for breakdown in the first ten hand-
launderings. However, in subsequent launderings, there
was a decrease in wear cycles necessary for either the
first sign of wear or hole. The resultant terminal loss
in abrasion resistance in the satin was fifteen per cent
to first sign of wear and six per cent to the first
appearance of a hole. (See Plate IX, X,pp. 82, 83)

62

By the machine-laundry procedure the greatest decrease
in abrasion resistance occurred in the first ten launderings,
with only three per cent change thereafter. Terminal decrease
in abrasion resistance was thirty per cent for first sign
of wear and eleven per cent to the first hole for the satin
fabric. .

The hand-laundering procedure showed more decrease in
abrasion resistance in the tricot, but the machine-laundering
caused a greater decrease in the satin. However, there was
an insufficient number of determinations to Justify any

valid conclusions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

TABLE XI
Abrasion
Method Tricot Satig
of s Si n Wear Ho 6 ls; Sigg Wear Hole
Laundgy . 0 es C C cle 0 Ch _ycles Ch Cycles
Hand 0 150.0 286.0 240.0 610.00

55 - 5.55 142.0 - 5.55 270.70 -l5.42 205.0 - 5.79 574.00

Machine 0 150.0 286.0 240.0 610.00

 

*Average of 5 determinations

65
FIGURE VIII
Abrasion In Per Cent Change

Satin Tricot
Hand Laundry (First Sign .._-

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Hole 1__.
Machine (First Sign ~--- ----
Laundry (Hole __._. _
7%
J! r-
ao - ‘4 -- __ ~ -
3: ‘_
IO 3:

Leander,n75

64

Drapability

The drapability of the tricot fabric was unchanged in
either method of laundering, remaining at the zero reading.

Drapability decreased in the satin fabric, slightly in
hand and appreciably in machine laundering. Terminal change
was four per cent in hand-laundering but fifty two per cent
in machine-laundering. This significant decrease in
drapability in the last twenty five machine-launderings
may be due to the fact that early loss of soluble finish
and weight loss in the first ten launderings; apparently
minimized or counteracted the effects of gradual fulling
which characterized the behavior change in the satin in
the less rigorous hand-laundering method. Shrinkage
determinations are questionable because of the bias cut
of the garments; it is quite possible that shrinkage was
actually greater than the data indicated.

 

 

 

 

TABLE XII
Drapability*
Satin
Geom. Mean 20931339
0 21.55
10
Hand 22.61 -+ 5.90
Machine 25.78 -rll.58
55
Hmnd 22.28 r 4.56
Machine 52.51 +52.27

 

*Average of 5 determinations

65
V. CONCLUSIONS

Analysis of the laboratory test data on the white
nylon slips in this study before and after laundering,
indicate that either the hand or machine-laundering
procedure was satisfactory for washing both the white
nylon tricot and satin slips since there was no significant
difference in fabric performance in the two methods. 0n
the basis of the findings in this study one method of
laundry could not be recommended as better than the other.
This may have been due, in part, to the controlled method
of hand-laundering followed. However, the average person
would probably obtain better results, particularly in
respect to discoloration; in machine-laundering than in
hand-laundering since the amount and temperature of the
water, more effective scouring and thorough rinsing, would
be given in machine-laundering than is usually practiced
in hand laundering in the home.

Since color change was not significant in either
fabric in the last thirty launderings it would indicate
that additional launderings would not result in appreciable
additional graying or yellowing of the fabric. Either
method of laundry used in this study seemed efficient in
preventing a redeposition of soil which causes fabrics

to appear soiled or greyed.

66

In general, maximum shrinkage occurred in the first
five launderings and is substantiated by previous laundry
studies. Shrinkage was greater in the tricot knit con-
struction than in the woven satin. Horizontal shrinkage
was greater than linear shrinkage but total shrinkage was
not sufficiently great to materially affect the fit of
either type of slip. Negligible shrinkage in the last
fifteen launderings indicated that continued laundering
would not result in appreciable dimensional change.

The fact that breaking strength increased in the satin
in both methods of laundry while bursting strength decreased
in the tricot cannot be satisfactorily eXplained. Because
the wet strength of both the tricot and satin remained
within the eighty to ninety per cent range of wet to dry
strength it is evident that nylon has superior qualities
of wet strength as well as dimensional stability when
compared to either acetate or rayon knit or woven slips.

Although friction values were high in both the satin
and tricot it was found that the weave of the fabric tested
against the nylon caused greater variation in friction
drag than fiber content so variation in behavior may be
due in part, to the outer clothing, and in part to the
cut of the slip. Nylon satin and tricot slips cut on
the lengthwise grain, would cause less friction with

67
outer clothing than those out crosswise and somewhat less
than the bias cut garments.

Because the satin slips showed somewhat less dimensional
change, retention of strength and comparable abrasion
resistance than the tricot their better performance in
these factors of wear imply that they would give better
total serviceability. However, differences were not
significantly great to Justify the conclusion that the
satin slips had a higher wear potential. The greater
porosity, excellent draping qualities and the satisfactory
appearance of the tricot requiring no ironing, makes the
tricot as desirable or perhaps more desirable than the
nylon satin.for many women.

Since this study was limited to laboratory analysis,
the data cannot be considered adequate as a predictive
measure of serviceability. For a truer evaluation of
serviceability and satisfaction in use it would be desirable
to carry on a wear study in conJunction with laboratory
analysis since perspiration and body strain significantly
affect fabric performance.

68
VI. SUMMARY

Six white nylon satin slips and six nylon tricot knit
slips were used in this study for comparison of color and
dimensional change resulting from thirty five hand and
thirty five machine-launderings.

Comparison of dimensional and color change in the two
types of slips was also made. Analysis and comparison of
physical prOperties and performance characteristics of the
new fabric with those same properties and characteristics
after laundering constituted the criteria for prediction
of their potential serviceability and behavior in use.

The slips were given a modified standard dry soil treat?
ment at each five laundering intervals and washed by home
procedures with a synthetic detergent.

Initial Specifications indicated the nylon satin and
nylon tricot were not significantly different in weight
but were unlike in thickness. The denier for the nylon
satin slips was higher than that in the tricot; the
filament count being approximately the same in both the
warp and filling. The twist of the satin filling yarns
was four times that of the twist in the warp yarns. Warp
yarn count was two and one half times greater than filling
count. Warp breaking strength in both wet and dry determi-
nations was twice that of the filling. Wet breaking strength

69
in the satin was eighty per cent of its dry strength.
The tricot had twice as many wales as courses with wet
bursting strength eighty five per cent of the dry.

When tested with a group of apparel fabrics of different
constructions and fiber content, the coefficient of kinetic
friction was comparable for both the satin and tricot. Both
showed the highest friction values in the filling direction
and lowest values in the direction of the warp.

In either hand or machine laundering, change in yarn
count in the satin was negligible. The tricot increased
slightly in course count which paralleled its shrinkage
in either method of laundering. By either method of
laundry weight change in the satin was slight. The tricot
increased in weight progressively with the number of
launderings; with terminal gain in weight five times that
of the satin. However, the tricot was not appreciably
affected in appearance, body, or hand.

Greatest dimensional change occurred during the first
five hand or machine-launderings for both the satin and
tricot slips. There was slight difference in the amount
of shrinkage between the two methods of laundry. Shrinkage
was greater in the tricot than the satin, with greater
dimensional change in the horizontal measurements than

linear measurements in both slips.

70

The tricot knit retained its original whiteness better
in hand laundry than in machine, whereas the method of
laundry made no appreciable difference in whiteness retention
in the satin slips. The satin slips lost a higher percentage
of their original whiteness than the tricot. Loss in
bursting strength of the tricot was greater in hand-
laundering than in machine-laundering. There was a greater
per cent loss in dry strength than in wet by both laundering
methods.

The wet bursting strength retained eighty eight to
ninety five per cent of its dry strength in hand and machine-
laundry reSpectively.

Abrasion resistance in the tricot increased after thirty
five machine-launderings but decreased slightly in comparable
hand-launderings. The satin fabric evidenced decreased
resistance to abrasion in both methods of laundering; loss
being twice as great in machine-laundry as laundering by

hand.

LITERATURE CITED

l.

10.

71
LITERATURE CITED

Alexandra, F. J. and Sturley, C. H., "The Influence
of Twist on the Breaking Load and Breaking Extension
of Continuous Filament Nylon Yarns and Monofil,“

The Journal of the Textile Institute, Volume XXXIV,
No. l, January, 1952, pp. 1-18.

American Society for Testing Materials, Committee D-lS
on Textile Materials, A.S.T.M. Standards on Textlle
Nggerials, The Society, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,

0.

Bayor, Stephania Eleanor, Comparison of Some Ehysical

Pro erties Affecti Service ualities of Three Brands
of Ra on War Knit 811 s, (Unpublished thesis, Michigan
State College, 19465.

Campbell, Jerome, "What's New in Tricot," Modern Textiles,
Vol. XXXIII, December, 1952, pp. 35-.

 

Campbell, J., ”Progress in Nylon, Rayon, Vol. XXXIII,
No. 9, September, 1952, p. 23.

”Care of Nylon Fabrics,” Rayon, Vol. XXXI, April, 1950,
p. 67.

. Dreby, Edwin C., A.F;iction meter for Determinlng the‘

Coefficient of Kinetic Friction of Fabrics, Research
Paper RP1562, Part of Journal of the National Bureau
of Standards, Volume XXXI, October, 1943.

Fletcher, Hazel H., Duensing, Mary Ellen, and Gilliam,
Jane F., I"Dimensional Change of Knit Goods in Laundering,"

Amerigan destuff Reporter, Vol. 38, No. 13, June 27,1949,
pp 0 481- 483'.

Fletcher, Hazel M. and Roberts, Helen 8., "The Geometry
of Knit Fabrics Made of Staple Rayon and Nylon and Its
Relationships to Shrinkage in Laundering,” Textile
Research Journal, Vol. XXII, No. 7, July, 1952,

pp o 466-4710

Fletcher, Hazel M. and Gilliam, "Abrasion Resistance
of Four Rayon Fabrics Used in Women's Slips," Rayon
and Synthetlc Textileg, Vol. XXXI, July, 1950, pp. 39-40.

ll.

12.

13.

14.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

72

Furry, M. S., McLendon, Verda I. and Aler, Mary E.

American destuff Reporter, Vol. 57, November 15,1948,
reprint pp. 1- 10.

"How to Safely Bleach Nylon and Rayon,“ Compliments
of Gold Seal Co., Bismark, North Dakota, Man.of Snowy
Bleach, Pamphlet.

Kroll, R. L. and Williams, K. R., "A.Study of Nylon
Tricot Snagging," Rayon, Vol. XXX, September, 1949,
pp. 111-113.

Leonard, E. A., Schwarz, E. W. K., "Measurement of
Fabric Soiling,” Americgn Dyestgff Reporteg,‘Vol. XLI,
May 26, 1952, pp. 522-540.

"Learn a Lesson from Nylon," Rayon, Vol. XXXII, June,
1951, pp. 55-57.

McKee, Barbara N. and Roseberry, Elizabeth D., “8011
Removal from Nylon, A Study of the Effects of Various

Washing Conditions," ngon and Synthetic Textileg,
Vol. XXXII, bIay, 1951, pp. 62- 64.

Mecklenburgh, G. K., 'The Setting of Nylon Fabrics,‘
Journal of the Textile Institgte, Vol. XLI, No. 4,

, April, 1950, pp. 161-174.

Millard, F., "Nylon Staple on the Cotton System;

Some Properties of All Nylon Yarn," Textile Institgte
Journal Transactions, Vol. XLII, April, 1951,

pp. 168-1800

"New Chemical Compound When Added to Soaps and Synthetic
Detergents Makes Brighter, Whiter Clothes,” Chemigtry
and the Homg, Issued by Extension Division, Public
Relations Department, E. I. Du Pont De Nemours and Co.,
Wilmington 98, Delaware.

”PrOper Care Means Longer Life for Nylon,” Chemistry

‘and the Home, Issued by Extension Division, Public

Relations Department, E. I. Du Pont De Nemours and
Co., Wilmington 98, Delaware.

Quig, J. B., ”The Acceptance of Nylon by the Consumer,“
Ra on, Vol. XXXI, June, 1950, pp. 59-60.

22.

23.

24.

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.

31.

32.

55.

34.

75

Rann, Florence G., A Com arative St d of Four Brands
of Women's Rayon Woven Slips of Compagable Price.

(Unpublished thesis, Michigan State College, 1946).

Skinkle, John H., Textile Testing. Chemical Publishing
Company, Brooklyn, New York, 1949.

Snell, Foster Dee, ”Synthetic Detergents in the Textile
Industry," Rayon and Synthetic Textiles. Vol. XXX,
November, 1949, pp. 90-91.

, "Soap and Detergents as Affecting

Textiles,“ American destpff Reporpep, Vol. XXXII,
No. 15, July 24, 1950, pp. 481-486.

, "Soap and Detergents as Affecting
Textiles," American Dyestgff Reporter, Vol. XXXIX,
No. 15, July 24, 1950, pp. 481-483.

 

Suter, Alfred, "New Precision Twist Test and Universal
Yarn Numbering Balance,” Textile Engineer, New York.

”Synthetic Fibers,” Chemical Epgineeripg, Vol. LVIII,
August, 1951, pp. 125-152.

Taber, Carl, "Nylon Fabric DevelOpment," R on,
Vol. XXXI, May, 1950, pp. 87-89.

Taber, Abraser Model E- 4010 Instruction Manual,
Taber Instrument Corporation, North Tonawanda,
New York, 1945.

"Tensile Strength and Elongation of Nylon Yarns,‘
R on, Vol. XXXXI, July, 1950, p. 64.

Thompson, Thelma Lucetta, A Studylgflthe Reliability
of Laborgtopy Test§ in Megsppipg Serviceability of
Rayon Sllps, Unpublished thesis, Michigan State
College, 1947).

Weiner, Louis 1., "Factors Affecting the Relaxation
Shrinkage of Knit Underwear Tubing," American destgff
Reporteg, Vol. XXXIX, No. 8, April 17, 1950.

Williams, Wyn A., ”Tricot Comes Into Its Own," ngon,
Vol. XXXIII, No. 2, February, 1952, p. 55-.

APPENDIX

PLATE I

Satin

Original
After '
Hand Laundering

10 '
15
20
25
so

35

74

After
Machine Laundering

After
Hand Laundering

.. __,...,__HM,..V _ .,

PLATE II

Tricot

Original

10
15
2O
25
50

55

75

After
Machine Laundering

PLATE III
Cutting Chart

Satin

Back

 

o
,9

 

A - abrasion
wt. - weight
Friction

 

 

 

 

76

 

 

 

78

PLATE V

Cutting Chart

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tricot
Front
A ”t
PO
A
wt
r0
f0
«46

 

 

 

 

 

A - abrasion
FD - filling drapability
WD - warp drapability

PLATE VI
Cutting Chart

Tricot
Back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A - abrasion
BS - bursting strength
Wt - weight

8O

PLATE VII

Shrinkage in Inches
After Thirty Five Hand Launderings

Satin

 

    

-.3l .15

 
 
 

   

———>

 

Thirty Five
Machine Launderings
Back

 

50

:3--.t-

 

 

 

Indicates location of linear measurements

Indicates location of width measurements

PLATE VIII

81

Shrinkage in Inches

After Thirty Five Hand Launderings
Tricot

Front

 

 

Waist Waist
Hip Hip
Hem

 

 

 

Hem

Thirty Five
Machine Launderings

Back

111 1.1..

 

 

 

 

 

 

_ -_-. Indicates location of linear measurements

Indicates location of width measurements

82
PLATE IX

Basistanee to Abrasion of Handlaundered
satin at a Constant Number ef 500 eycie,

 

PLATE X

Resistance to Abrasion of.Machine Laundered
Satin at a.constant number of 600 cycles

After 10 - .
launderings launderings

 

PLATE XI 84

Resistance to Abrasion of Hand Laundered
Tricot at a constant number of 500 cycles

After 10 After 35
launderings launderings

 

PLATE XII

Resistance to Abrasion of Machine Laundere
Tricot At a Constant Number of 500 Cycles

After 10 .
launderings launderings

 

86

 

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CHART II

Average Per Cent Dimensional

Change In Slips After Laundry

 

 

 

 

 

 

No.
of _ Vertical Horizontal
_L: Satin Tricot Sa§;n Tricop
0
Hand
Machine
1
Hand + .23 + .18 -1.52 1.04
Machine - .32 +.32 - .07 2.34
2
Hand ' 047 - 015 “1075 1078
maChine' - 087 " 015 ’1054 - 2059
3
Hand - .54 - .10 -l.36 1.76
Machine - .57 + .06 -1.17 2.10
4
Hand "' 051 "’ 007 ”1037 "' 1087
Machine - .44 - .44 -1.14 - 2.25
5
Hand .43 - .37 -l.24 2.32
”80111118 - 050 - 048 -1026 " 2079
10
Hand - .48 - .39 -1.56 - 3.13
maChine " 046 - 039 - .84 "’ 2095
20
Hand - .02 " 027 - 085 2059
Machine + .08 + .01 -1.10 2.80
35
Hand - .02 - .51 - .98 3.47
Machine + .31 ...11 - .93 - 2.89

 

90

CHART III

Vertical Dimensional Change of Satin*

91

 

 

 

 

 

Right Left Right Left Right Left

No. Side Side Side Side Center Side Side

of Seam Seam Front Front Front Back Back
L 3‘5 Ch. fCh. fiCh. iCh. {cm 2. Ch. 2. CL

(1) 1 Hand +066 * 048 +1.32 " .75 +-.25 " 018 - 019
MaChine O " 058 " 019 " 087 "’ .10 + 009 "' 057

(l) 2 Hand + 048 - .20 + 057 “1050 -1024 - .19 “1024
MBChine '1023 -1013 ""o66 '1065 " 087 + 018 "' .76
(l) 5 Hand + 048 O O -2027 " 048 " 066 " .86
Machine - .28 - .09 - .48 -1.23 -..68 - .67 - .57

(1) 4 Hand + .29 - .20 + .47 -l.22 - .27 - .37 - .86
Machine +-.28 - .66 - .10 -l.52 - .39 - .10 - .57

(1) 5 Hand - .09 - .29 + .47 -1.22 - .57 - .66 - .86
MaChine " 009 " .74 "' 038 “1060 " 019 "' 001 " .48
(1)10 Hand " 028 " .10 + .38 -1031 " 037 "' 085 "" .86
Machine - .38 - .38 - .57 -1.33 - .29 + .18 - .48

(2) 20 Hand * .95 + .76 i+2.65 -l.48 - .76 -1.31 - .95
Machine r .19 - .37 0 - .37 -+l.l5 +1.13 0

(2) 55 Hand + 057 + 057 +2065 “1030 ' .94 - 093 " 076
Madhine 0 - .34 0 - .55 *1.54 +1.51 0

 

*Measured to the nearest 1/16 inch

(1) Average of two determinations

(2) One determination

CHART IV

Horizontal Dimensional Change of Satin*

 

 

 

 

 

Right Left
Curved Bust Bust

No. Bust Bust Under- Under- Bust
of Front Front arm arm Back Hi Hem
L g on. if Ch. fin. fen. Ken. 7.“‘cn. ?."cn.
(1) 1 Hand -3.36 *#l.86 -3.45 -3.17 -4.58 '*1.06 +1.00
MEChine ' 025 "’ 053 - .96 -1080 -5030 {-5022 +1012
(1) 2 Hand -3.87 ‘+4.59 -3.48 -3.93 -2.21 - .18 + .87
MaChine -1050 ' 007 -5048 -3053 -5057 +1090 + 067
(l) 3 Hand -2.58 + .91 -3.57 -3.60 -3.24- + .47 +2.07
Machine - .51 - .48 -3.06 -3.53 -4.08 +3.05 r .42
(1) 4 Hand -2.58 - .02 -5.o7 -3.17 43.02 + .60 11.64
Machine + .54 - .55 -3.52 -3.56 -4.29 +2.89 + .53
(1) 5 Hand -2.32 + .91 -4.34 -2.69 -3.26 +1.07 +1.98
Machine + .54 -l.44 -3.51 —3.56 -4.29 '72.89 + .53
(1) 10 Hand -2.32 - .01 -3.93 -4.03 -3.74 +1.22 +1.88
MEChine 1' 057 O -2064 -2068 -4029 +2.60 4' 055
(2) 20 Hand -3.06 1‘3.70 -2.50 -3.45 -2.88 1-.89 +1.33
maChine " 051 O “2052 -1069 -5085 + 025 + .65
(2)35 Hand -2.04 +4.63 -3.33 -5.17 -3.85 +1.19 +1.70
MBChine -1001 +1078 “2052 “1069 -5085 f 023 f’ 056

 

fiMeasured to the nearest 1/16 inch

(1) Average of two determinations

(2) One determination

93
CHART V
Vertical Dimensional Change of Tricot*

 

Right Left Right Left

 

 

 

No. Side Side Side Side Center Center

of Seam Seam Front Front Front Back

.l; % Ch. %Ch. % Ch. % Ch. % Ch. % Ch.
(1) 1 Hand 0 + .09 1 .40 7.40 -r.18 + .001

Machine 7 .09 1-.45 +.69 .+,59 -+.36 - .26

(l) 2 Hand 0 .00 - .102 - .20 - .26 - .36
MEChine - .27 ‘* .0005 ‘I‘ .10 'I- 030 " 009 - 080

(l) 5 Hand - o 44 ‘F o 004 i 030 "’ 030 ‘ 055 + o 18
3550111118 - 056 ‘f .18 +060 '1' .10 + 056 " 053
+

010 "' 018 " 027
050 - 018 " 097

(1) 4 Hand - .oo4 - .09 0
Machine - .71 - .36 - .10

(l) 5 Hand - .70 " 044 - 050 1' .10 ‘ 026 " 062
MBChine " O76 " 036 - 010 " O49 " 018 " .97
(1)10 Hand "' 055 "" 060 + 010 "' 050 " 026 " .71
machine - .53 - .36 - .20 - .10 - .36 - .80
(2) 20 Hand 0 - .34 ..,2o - .40 - .88 - .18
Machine 0 + .36 4-.19 + .39 - .35 - .53
(2) 35 Hand - .7 - .52 +.2 - .4 -l.l - .54
MEChine "‘ 018 *018 +039 0 " 036 "’ 071

 

fiMeasured to the nearest 1/16 inch

(1) Average of two determinations
(2) One determination

CHART VI

Horizontal Dimensional Change of Tricotfi

94

 

 

 

. Top of Normal Curved

No. Bust Slip Waist Waist Hip
of Front Back Line ‘ Back Line Hem
L i Ch. iCh. 2 Ch. % Ch. %Ch, Z Ch.
(1) 1 Hand - .65 -1.96 — .37 -1.71 + .15 -l.69
MEChine ”2075 -2082 " 076 -5099 -1050 -2020
(1) 2 Hand -l.28 -4.o7 - .87 -l.69 o -2.80
Machine -2.40 ~3.6l -l.l3 -3.58 -2.41 -2.43
(l) 3 Hand - .63 -3.10 -l.40 -2.13 -1.27 -3.01
Machine -l.90 -1.03 -l.70 -2.58 -2.87 -2.55
(1) 4 Hand - .96 -2.91 -l.09 -2.64 - .47 ~3.14
maChine -;L038 -3001. -1070 -1099 -2071 -2071
(l) 5 Hand -1.46 -3.88 -l.94 -2.00 -1.30 ~3.37
Machine -2.24 -3.41‘ -1.70 -2.58 -3.59 -3.25
(1) 10 Hand -3.05 -4.66 -2.27 -3.18 -l.73 -3.87
Machine -2.75 -3.81 -1.70 ~2.58 -3.47 -3.25
(2) 20 Hand -5.o7 -4.58 - .33 -2.85 - .81 -3.88
Machine -2.08 ~3.66 -l.54 -3.54 -3.19 -*2.78
(2) 35 Hand -3.68 -5.34 -2.3 -3.56 -1.63 -4.31
Machine -2.42 -4.47 0 -3.54 -3.67 -3.24

*Measured to the nearest 1/16 inch

(1) Average of two determinations
(2) One determination

ROOM 1155 ONLY,

 

 

 

MICHIGAN STATE UNIV

RSITY LIB

E RARIES
7 6

0 904

3 1293 030