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This is to certify that the
thesis entitled

A Study of the Performance of a Group
of GruehPResistant Treated Rayon Suitings
1n Laundering and Dry Cleaning

presented by

Virgilee Myers Tsuda
has been accepted towards fulfillment

of the requirements for
Master Of Egg degree mm and Clothing

101' professor

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,.

A STUDY OF THE PERFORKANCE
OF A GROUP OF CRUSH-RESISTANT TREATED

RAYON SUITINGS IN LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING

By
Virgilee MyersTsuda

m

A THESIS
Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of
Michigan State College of Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements

for the degree of
MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts

“Mun;

05-:

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pf

72

TABLE 0F CONTENTS
Page
I. INTRODUCTION................................... 1
II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE........................... 1;
III. METHODS AND PROCEDURES......................... 3A
A. Testing Procedures.......................... 37
Fiber Identification........................ 37
Cost Per Square Yard........................ 37
Weave Structure............................. 37
Weight Per Square Yard...................... 38
Thickness................................... 38
Yarn Count.................................. 38
Yarn Number or Size......................... 39
Twist Per Inch.............................. 39
Drapability................................. ul
Wrinkle Recovery..................;......... h2
Compressibility............................. A3
Compressional Resilience.................... M3
Breaking Strength........................... uh
Elongation.................................. hS
Abrasion Resistance......................... - AS
Colorfastness to Light...................... #6
Dimensional Stability....................... 46
Laundering Procedure......,................. A?

Pressing Procedure.......................... #8

IV.

Dry Cleaning Procedure......................

Colorfastness to Laundering and Dry Cleaning

INTERPRETATION OF RESULTS.......................

A.

D.

F.

Analysis of Fabric Specifications............
Group I......................................
Group II.....................................
A Comparison of the Fabric Specification

Analysis.....................................
Performance of the Original Fabrics..........

Group IOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0.00000000CCOOOOOOC

Group IIOOOO0.0.0.0.0.0...OOOOOOOOCOOOOIOOOO.

-A Comparison of the Original Fabric

Performance..................................
Fabric Performance in Laundering and Dry
Cleaning..........~..........................
Group I......................................
Group II.....................................
A Comparison of Fabric Performance in

Laundering and Dry Cleaning..................

CONCLUSIONSOOOCOOOOOO...OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOCO

SWRYOOCQOOOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0.00...

LIERATURE CITEDOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0.0...

APPENDIX...O0.0.0.0...OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0......

1+9
to
50
so
so
53

58
60
60

69

72
72
105

133
138
lie
11+?
153

Plates

I.
II.
III.

XII.

XIII.
XIV.
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.
XIX.

XXI.

PLATES, CHARTS AND TABLES

EFFECT OF LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING
IN GROUP I

PERCENTAGE DIMENSIONAL CHANGE............
THICKNESS................................
DRAPABILITY..............................
WRINKLE RECOVERY (LAUNDERING)............
WRINKLE RECOVERY (DRY CLEANING)..........
COMPRESSIBILITY..........................
COMPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE.................
BREAKING STRENGTH (LAUNDERING) . . . . . . . . . . .
BREAKING STRENGTH (DRY CLEANING).........
ELONGATION (LAUNDERING)..................
ELONGATION (DRY CLEANING)................
RESISTANCE To ABRASION...................

EFFECT OF LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING
IN GROUP II

PERCENTAGE DIMENSIONAL CHANGE............
THICKNESS............. ..... ..............
DRAPABILITY..............................
WRINKLE RECOVERY (LAUNDERING)............
WRINKLE RECOVERY (DRY CLEANING). . . . . . . . . .
COMPRESSIBILITY..........................
COMPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE.................
BREAKING STRENGTH (LAUNDBRING)...........

BREAKING STRENGTH (DRY CLEANING).........

Page

73
79
82
811
85
89
91
91+
95
97
98

101

106
110
11h
116
117
119
122
128
125

XXII.
XXIII.
XXIV.
XXV.
XXVI.
XXVII.

Charts

I.

Tables
I.

II.
III.
IV.
V.
VI.

ELONGATION (LAUNDERING).................

ELONGATION (DRY CLEANING)...............

RESISTANCE TO ABRASION..................

CUTTING CHART FOR DRESS WEIGHT GABARDINES....

CUTTING CHART FOR SUITINGS..................-

DETAIL OF SAMPLING FOR ORIGINAL, LAUNDERED

MID DRY CLEANED SQUARESOOOO0.0.00.00.00.00...

WEAVE GRAPH OF THE GROUP I FABRICS...........

WEAVE GRAPH -- IIAl,

WEAVE GRAPH -- ITAB,

RESISTANCE TO ABRASION
RESISTANCE TO ABRASION
RESISTANCE TO ABRASION
RESISTANCE To ABRASION
RESISTANCE TO ABRASION

RESISTANCE TO ABRASION

IIA

.OOOOOOOOOOOOOO...

IIAh ..................

IAu (LAUNDERING)...
IAu (DRY CLEANING).

1A1 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

IAS ...............

"" IIAB oooooooooooooo

IIAZ 00000000000000

SUMMARY OF TESTING INTERVALS. e e o e e o e o e o e 9 e e e e

FABRIC ANALYSIS OF THE DRESS WEIGHT

GABARDINESOOCOOO00......OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.

YARN ANALYSIS OF THE DRESS WEIGHT GABARDINES.

FABRIC ANALYSIS OF THE SUITINGS..............

YARN NUIWBER OF THE SUITINGSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.

TWIST PER INCH OF THE SUITINGS...............

PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL DRESS WEIGHT

127
128
130
153
15A

155
156

157
158

175

177
178

179
180

36

51
52
SA
56
57

VII.

VIII.

XI.
XII.
XIII.
XIV.
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII.
XIX.

XXI.
XXII.
XXIII.
XXIV.

GABARDINES IN DRAPAEILITY, WRINKLE RECOVERY
COMPRESSIBILITY AND CONFRESSIONAL RESILIENCE..
PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL DRESS WEIGHT
GABARDINES IN TENSILE STRENGTH (WET AND DRY)
AND ELONGATION AND ABRASION RESISTANCE........
PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL SUITINGS IN
DRAPABILITY, NRINKLE RECOVERY, CONPRESSIBILITY
AND COHPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE..................
PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL SUITINGS IN
TENSILE STRENGTH (WET AND DRY) AND ELONGATION
AND ABRASION RESISTANCE.......................
EFFECT OF LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING......
PERCENTAGE DINENSIONAL CHANGE............
WEIGHT PER SQUARE YARD IN OUNCES.........
THICKNESS (INCH).........................
mmNcmmT--GMMPII”.H.H.H.H.u..
YARN COUNT -- GROUP II ..................
DRAPABILITY..............................
WRINKLE RECOVERY VALUES -- GROUP I ......
WRINKLE RECOVERY VALUES -- GROUP 11......
CONPRESSIBILITY..........................
CONPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE IN PER CENT.....
BREAKING STRENGTH IN POUNDS - GROUP I ...
BREAKING STRENGTH IN POUNDS - GROUP II...

ELONGATION - GROUP I 0.00000..00.0.000.00
ELONGATION-GROUP II 000.00.000000000000
RESISTANCE TO ABRASION...................

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT...................

61

62

66

68

159
160
161
162
163
16A
165
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
173
171+

INTRODUCTION

For many years the textile industry has continuously
searched for new fibers and finishes in order to make
their fabrics more acceptable to the consumer buyer. The
result of these efforts is the ever increasing variety of
materials from which to choose when selecting yard goods
and ready to wear.

Decline in purchasing power plus higher cost of woolens
and worsteds due to the "wild wool prices" (59) have stimu-
lated the consumer to find less expensive materials com-
parable in serviceability and appearance. Earlier uses of
rayon and acetate were in competition chiefly with cotton
and silk. Now with their additional refinements they are
put on the market simulating and therefore competing with
wool. (59) Yarns can be manufactured of acetate and viscose
and woven into fabrics simulating woolen and worsted fabrics
in appearance and hand. Resins are applied to these mate-
rials which converters claim will improve their shrinkage,
crush resistance and recovery from wrinkling.

Today the consumers' prime interest seems to be the
wrinkle recovery of the fabric in the apparel they purchase.
The typical question asked ten years ago was, "Will it
shrink?" Today the salesperson more often hears, "Will it
wrinkle?" or "Will the wrinkles hang out when it's hung in
the closet?" Advertisers in many consumer periodicals stress
this functiOnal treatment under their own trade name with

"wrinkle resistant", "wrinkle shed", "crush resistant" or a

-1-

similar term included in the advertising cOpy.

Recently research studies have indicated that not
finish alone but the inherent physical characteristics of
the fiber and the fabric constructibn play a major role in
wrinkle recovery.

Rayon suitings, simulating woolen and worsted suitings
have been seen in abundance on the retail market during the
past two years. A large percentage of these fabrics have
been treated with finishes which manufacturers, converters
and retailers claim will resist wrinkling. Will they really
resist wrinkling? Will they retain their crush resistance
after they are laundered or dry cleaned? Will they retain
their original physical appearance? Do they wear as well as
wool? These are the questions asked by many consumers. Com--
paratively little consumer research has been done on the
effectiveness and permanence of these finiShes in successive
dry cleanings or launderings, so to partially answer the
above questions is inherent in the purpose of this study.

The general objective then is an evaluation and compar-
ison of the initial wrinkle recovery, drapability and ser-
viceability characteristics of eight selected all-rayon suit-
ing fabrics which have been given a Crush-resistant treatment.
These fabrics closely resemble traditional woolen and worsted
suitings and are currently used in both men's and women's
apparel.

Specific objectives are: (a) to compare the initial
physical characteristics of these two groups of suitings
which vary in weave and yarn structure, thickness, weight per

-2...

square yard, yarn count, and percentage amounts of blended
viscose rayon and acetate; (b) to compare the initial
physical characteristics of the "treated" gabardine with

the greige or "untreated" cloth in characteristics of wrinkle
recovery, drapability, compressibility, compressional resil-
ience, tensile strength, weight and abrasion resistance;

(c) to check the validity of the manufacturer's, distrib-
utor's or retailer's claims for initial crush-resistance and
wrinkle recovery; and (d) to determine if initial price bears
a relationship to the performance in these two groups of
"treated" fabrics.

A second major objective is (a) to determine the rela-
tive durability and/or performance in use of the crease re-
sistant finishes applied to these two types of suitings follow-
ing a specified number of launderings and dry cleanings by
comparing their initial performance characteristics with those
same characteristics after twenty dry cleanings and launder-
ings; (b) to show to what extent durability or performance is
influenced by weave structure and/or yarn structure and the
extent and rate of change occurring at specified laundering
and dry cleaning intervals; and (c) to compare the effective-
ness of the applied finish in repetitive launderings with
that in successive dry cleanings.

The third objective is to determine if launderings and/or
dry cleanings results in progressive change in their physical
and performance characteristics in wrinkle recovery, drapabil-
ity, compressibility, compressional resilience, dimensional

change, tensile strength, resistance to abrasion and colorfastness.

..3-

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

The first half of the twentieth century has seen a
tremendous expansion in the use of rayon and spun rayons,
which has been largely based on the steady improvement in
their quality. It was long recognized that a needed improve-
ment in these fabrics was their launderability. The consumer
wanted rayon fabrics which could be laundered without exces-
sive shrinkage or stretchage, slippage, or loss of color.

Fabrics and garments were sought which.would hold their
shape, color and body during their life. The use of faster
dyes helped solve the color problem, and while this increas-
ed costs, it likewise widened markets. The adOption of
better construction reduced slippage and the use of resins
helped still more in effecting increased dimensional stabil—
ity and crease resistance. (R6)

The most widely used method was developed in 1918 by
chemists of Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee Company, Ltd., of Man-
chester, England. For fourteen years they continuously sought
means of giving cottons and rayons comparable resilience in-
herent in animal fibers such as wool. (10)

The process derived from these many years of research
included the formula for the resin, methods of application
and padding, drying, and curing temperatures as well as
length of curing, washing and final drying procedures.

For the preparation of the resin it was necessary to

know that formaldehyde was applied to the fabric from a water

4,-

solution of the monomer or precondensate in the presence of

a catalyst which would split off acid at a high temperature
used for curing. The following formula was of sufficient
strength to give fabrics crease resistance and low residual
skrinkage if properly applied: (30 pounds of urea formal-
dehyde (dry), 1.2 pounds of diammonium phosphate (catalyst),
0.25 pound of wetting agent and water to make 12 gallons). (11)
To apply the resin, the fabric was impregnated with the solu-
tion on a 2~roll or 3-roll padder with two or more dips to
insure complete and uniform impregnation. (50) The drying
operation was an important phase. The fabric was placed in

a dryer having a temperature of approximately 180° F., with
2000 F. as maximum. (11)

The resin treated fabric was then cured to achieve
polymerization of the resin monomer to the insoluble form.
Curing for five minutes at 3000 F. was a good all round
procedure to follow, but the best condition of time and
temperature for curing had to be determined by each mill
for each fabric as the type, weight and construction of the
fabric had to be taken into consideration. (28) Too low a
temperature or too short a curing time would not allow com-
plete polymerization of the resin while too high a tempera-
ture or curing too long a period of time would increase the
chances for damage to the rayon and result in a loss in
tensile strength and abrasion resistance. If insufficient
curing occurred, the finished fabric tended to develop an
extremely unpleasant "fishy" odor. (ll)

-5-

The cured fabric was then washed in a beck containing
soap for 15 to 20 minutes at a temperature of 120° to 160° F.
to remove excess chemicals and surface resin. The final dry-
ing, which consisted of extracting by centrifuging and Open-
ing by hand was carefully carried out. The goods were then
given any final dry finishing operations which may have been
required. (37)

This process was applied to cottons and rayons for
several years by this British firm in Manchester. (37) It
was not until 1928 that urea-formaldehyde resin was made and
used commercially in the United States. (32) However, the
Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee Company, Ltd., applied for and
received a U.S. Patent, (No. 1,73u,516), in 1929 which had
an expiration date of November 19h6. The issuing of this
patent benefited the T. B. Lee Company, Inc., an American
subsidiary established by the parent British firm. This
patent, which employed the use of the urea-formaldehyde
resin, covered specifically production of crease or crush
resistant finishes in cellulosic and other materials.

Claim 7, was of extreme importance to this British firm
during the life of this patent as it protected them against
unauthorized use of this method and the use of their trade
mark. It reads as follows: "The process of rendering a
textile material substantially less liable to creasing or
crumpling without substantially lessening its suppleness,
which comprises impregnating the individual fibers with a
liquid comprising a solidifiable agent, removing the impreg~
nating agent, if any, from between the fibers, and solidify-

-6-

ing the agent." (37) Fabrics given this treatment were said
to be "Tebilized". (9)

This "Tebilized" process which was deve10ped originally
for cottons, would never have assumed much importance for
such applications. Actually, it was the market for spun
rayon dress goods and various types of sportswear which
caused the rapid and phenomenal growth in the use of this
Tebilized process. (37) Other concerns quickly adopted
similar processes and millions of yards of rayons, especi-
ally spun rayons, were sold under such trade names as Vita-
lized, Unidure, Bradura, indicating muss or crease resist—
ance resulting from impregnating the fabric with resin. (MS)
In addition to crease proofing, these processes also produced
shrinkage control, improvement in "hand" and drape and
increased wet tensile strength. one disadvantage, however,
was that wear or abrasion resistance of the fabric was
normally decreased. (37)

As the years passed the urea-formaldehyde low polymer
products became increasingly plentiful. In 1939 (32) another
thermosetting resin, melamine formaldehyde, became available,
and enabled the field of resin application for textiles to
broaden considerably. (37) It was very difficult to take
melamine, which is a triaminotriazine and combine it with
formaldehyde to yield a product that would be satisfactory
to the textile trade for applications to all types of fibers,
including rayons, wool, cotton, linen, aralac and nylon.

However, after several years of intensive research work at

the Stamford Laboratories of the American Cyanamid Company,
an alkylated methylol melamine was produced which had
qualities that had seemed impossible to develop during the
previous years. (37) They called their process ”Lanaset".
Later the Monsanto Chemical Company started manufacturing a
melamine derivative which they marketed under the trade name
”Resloom". (h9)

. In sharp contrast to the corresponding urea-formaldehyde
types, this melamine product "Resloom" was miscible with cold
water in all proportions; had excellent stability to storage;
(37) formed baths more stable to accelerator; had less ten-
dency to form odors; was much more resistant to chemical
degradation and to boiling water; and minimized the gas
fading of acetate colors. (28) In order to obtain equivalent
results in any given fabric construction, only one-half the
amount of a melamine resin was necessary; a melamine formal-
dehyde resin content of 5% solids in a fabric being equiva-
lent to roughly 10% solids of a corresponding urea-formal-
dehyde product. (37)

A difference between the two types of resins, which was
extremely important, was the manner of chlorine absorption
from laundry bleach liquors. The urea-formaldehyde resins
absorbed chlorine and caused subsequent tendering in either
cotton or spun rayon fabrics during ironing, unless such
fabrics had been given a thorough anti-chloring. Although
the corresponding melamine types likewise absorb chlorine,

they do so in an entirely different manner, with little or

-8-

no subsequent loss in tensile strength, even without anti-
chloring. Chlorine absorption tests carried out by several
independent laboratories, showed a spun rayon fabric finished
with a urea-formaldehyde resin content of 8% to have warp
tensile strength losses varying from 22 to 60 pounds and

12 to 27 pounds in the filling. The corresponding melamine
finished fabric showed a 6% loss which was practically the
same strength loss as the cloth before finishing. The im-
portant factor in connection with this investigation is the
fact that the urea-formaldehyde treated cloth showed wide
variation in tensile Strength loss, whereas the corresponding
melamine-formaldehyde finished sample did not.(37)

The effect of chlorine bleaching on cloth treated with
urea or melamine resins practically demands that garments
made from such cloth should never be chlorine bleached or
be given an extremely efficient antichlor. Since all present
crease resistant finishes contain either urea or melamine
resins, all garments made from them should be distinctively
labeled as a warning for laundries to antichlor. The need
for such labels is outstanding. It is often impossible to
tell fine corded cotton from rayon and many laundries claim
they chlorine bleach all white goods. Unless a label
specifically warning against chlorine bleaching is attached,
white crease resistant rayon garments probably will be, or
are being, bleached. (28) I

In spite of the many superior characteristics of mela-

mine formaldehyde, it was not readily accepted for commercial

-9...

quantity use due to its high cost. In fact, in l9h0 Warwick
noted that melamine was even then still a costly and almost
an unobtainable commodity except in university laboratories.
However, in that same year the American Cyanamid Company
produced and sold over half a million pounds of melamine. (30)
By 19hh a great amount of study had been given to crease
resists and their effects on fabrics dyed with various types
of dyestuffs. Results indicated that direct dyes, which were.
considered the most important for crease resist processing,
were usually affected in shade by the urea-formaldehyde pro-
duct. Browns varied from a red to a dull tone, while terti-
ary shades were found to be unstable if any one component of
the dye would not withstand subsequent processing. Problems
were most acute when trying to obtain pale shades, while in
the case of heavier shades, particularly blacks; these
difficulties did not arise to any appreciable extent. Direct
dyes were also affected by fastness to light when treated
with the crease-resisting process----some were slightly
improved, others were practically unaffected, while still
others were reduced in their light fastness. In fastness
to washing, all direct dyes were considerably improved by
the crease resist process. In fact, this process protected
water fastness to an even greater extent than did the two
treatments which were normally given to direct dye fabrics
to improve their water fastness. With vat dyes, the crease
resist process altered the shades very little, but tended

to reduce the fabric's fastness to light. Azoic dyed

-10-

fabrics, when given a crease resist process, changed very
little in shade tone but seemed to be improved in their
fastness to light. Sulphur colors were not extensively
used on fabrics to be given a crease resist treatment,
because they were dull and showed appreciable shade changes
when the finish was applied. Basic colors were somewhat
improved in light fastness when given a crease resisting
treatment. (15)

Due to many wartime shortages, both the United States
Army and the United States Navy used rayon fabrics treated
with formaldehyde resins in official uniforms. The Navy
issued a broadcloth blouse for the Waves cut from a rayon
fabric impregnated with a 2 to 3% solution of one of the
melamine resins. Such resins, if properly applied, had no
odor nor did they cause any dermatitis except in extremely
rare cases. (26) The United States Army, on the other hand,
made the WAC off-duty summer uniform from a crease-resistant
rayon fabric that saved time in washing and ironing. (10)

As late as l9hh laboratory tests developed for fabrics
given a crease resistant treatment were few. A.S.T.M. 19hh
reported that in the field of dress goods and suitings where
cotton and rayons were concerned, a considerable amount of
emphasis was being placed on crease resistance, resilience,
crush resistance, or wrinkle proofing. They did not pretend
to know where one began and the other ended. They had heard
of countless claims made for the synthetic resins and fibers

themselves which were supposed to make a woman's dress crease-

-11..

proof or make a crease stay in a pair of man's slacks
depending on which claim would sell the most goods, but
they had no good testing instrument or method for deter-
mining these characteristics. (22) On the other hand,
during the same year, recovery from creasing and other
minimum standards were insured by strict testing by the
fabric finishers and by check tests employed by the Better
Fabrics Testing Bureau, official testing laboratory of the
National Retail Dry Goods Association. Unless a fabric
showed 75% recovery from creasing after five minutes under
a five pound weight, it could not be labeled as "Tebilized".
The crease test the Better Fabrics Testing Bureau reported
put more strain on a test piece of fabric than a 200 pound
man sitting in a swivel chair put on his suit. (10) It was
also noted by another testing laboratory that the identify-
ing colors in stain tests for distinguishing fibers were
altered by the urea-formaldehyde finish. (35)

In February of l9h5 D. H. Powers, a Director of Sales
Development of Textile Chemicals for the Monsanto Chemical
Company, announced the results of a study determining the
effect of laundering on resin treated rayons. As stated
before, the melamine type resins showed that they were
tremendously lower in their chlorine absorption than the
urea types and that they caused little tendering of the
fabrics even where untreated fabrics given the same bleach
were damaged. However, a new result was that they seem to

exert a protective action rather than a deleterious action

-12-

on the rayon which was bleached. Also, this melamine type
of resin, when properly impregnated into the fiber, gave
increasing strength to spun rayon with increasing concentra-
tions. Powers also stated that the amount of rayon which
had been impregnated with the urea resin had doubled in the
previous year. (uh)

In Textile flggld_of March l9hS, it was noted that
"durable" finishes, with high resistance to creasing, abra-
sion, dimension change, a drapy or stiff hand, good tensile
strength and no chlorine absorption, presented problems both
to the finisher and to the user of reworked stock. While it
was extremely important from the consumer's point of view that
the finish be permanent for the life of the garment, at the
same time it was of obvious importance to the textile fin-
isher that he be able to remove this finish in case some
error had been made in his operations so that he must either
redye or refinish. (29)

In May of 19h5 Bouvet, Manager of the Textile Unit of
the American Viscose Corporation reaffirmed the fact that
for satisfactory results, it was essential that cloth
technicians and finishers work as a team. He claimed that
cloth must be designed so as to provide sufficient room for
the resin. Long and coarse staples were desirable for the
sake of resiliency, high spinnability and low twist. He
also pointed out that the cloth was to be entirely relaxed,
fully shrunk, and most important that it be nearly bone dry

before curing. The chief requisites for success were desir-

-13-

able cloth constructions and finishing under low tension.
Urea formaldehyde, which did not possess any shrinking
properties, was placed on the cloth to anchor the fiber and
no satisfactory degree of stability was achieved unless the
fabric was fully shrunk at curing time. (5)

During this same month the American Cyanamid Company
announced the formation of a new department expressly to
handle synthetic resins in the field of textile finishing.
This was due to the ever increasing production of synthetic
resins for crease proofing and general finishing. (33)

In m Textile Monthly of May 1916. it pointed out
that there are two characteristics possessed by urea-formal-
dehyde resins to which they owe their usefulness in the
textile finishing industry. When applied to the fabric in
monomeric form as mono or dimethylol urea and polymerized
in the fiber a definite improvement in resistance to
creasing and to shrinkage during laundering was observed.
When the partially polymerized resins were applied to the
fabric the molecular size prevented penetration into the
fiber and a resin film was therefore formed around the fibers
and yarns. Crease resistance was not improved by this treat-
ment but shrinkage was controlled. This latter application
also altered the "hand" of the fabric by imparting a certain
amount of stiffness and "body". The extent of these added
characteristics depended-almost entirely on the molecular
weight of the polymer employed. High polymers produce more
stiffness and "body" than low polymers. (hl) A disadvantage,

-1u-

however, was that unless mixed with monomers or low polymers,
a trend was evident that the higher the initial degree of
polymerization of the impregnant, the lower the wash fast-
ness. (28)

In 19h5 it was possible to obtain modified urea-formal-
dehyde resins in monomeric or polymeric form which were
compatible with the quaternary ammonium water repellent
compounds and could be applied successfully in conjunction
with them. When monomeric urea-formaldehyde compounds were
employed with the quaternary ammonium water repellent com-
pounds, excellent crease resistant and water repellent effects
were obtained, and resistance to laundering shrinkage was
imparted. The lubricating and ”bodying" effect of the water
repellent compounds apparently overcame the dry, 'sandy”
feel which was usually apparent in resin treated fabrics
and produced a smooth full, softness which was very desir-
able. The wearability properties of fabrics so treated, as
measured by abrasion resistance tests, were also found to be
very much higher than was ever obtained with the usual urea-
formaldehyde treatment. Therefore, in this single application
of resins a fabric was obtained which possessed water repell-
ency, resistance to spotting and shrinking, improved wear-
ability and a desirable "hand". (Al)

' With the resin-treated fabrics came the necessity of
developing production processes that would insure, beyond
any doubt, a permanent finish. The stage of production

which had the greatest bearing on the lasting quality of

-15-

the finish was the curing stage. As stated before, if the
fabric were "overcured", which is too high a temperature or
too long a curing time, the resin treatment was destroyed.
0n the other hand, if the fabric were "undercured", that is
too low a temperature or too short a time in the curing
process, the resin treatment was not "set" and did not have
a lasting effect. Therefore, the key to prOper curing was
control. This could be obtained only by an absolutely
uniform temperature throughout the entire curing operations
plus a proper relative exhaust of air. Two types of machines
were recommended for the curing process, the Loop Dryer and
-the Roller Type Dryer. (#7)

During the early months of l9h5, samples of rayon
fabrics with the urea-formaldehyde or melamine formaldehyde
resins migrated to the United States from England. It was
noticed that the American finish was not in any degree
comparable to that on like fabrics finished in Great Britain.
Therefore, two representatives of the American Viscose Corp-
oration visited all the important plants in England which
did crease resistant resin application work. They reported
that there were small differences in the type of equipment
or the manufacturing steps used, but in general, the English
and the United States plants were much the same. There was
one thing, however, that was very noticeable---and that was
that, in not a single plant that operated on rayon fabrics
were goods rolled or batched following any single productive

operation. The only time goods were rolled on paper tubes,

-16-

was preparatory to shipping to the customer. Each produc-
tive operation was carefully planned to relieve every
possible degree of tension from the fabric while handling.
This was important and needed to be seriously considered
by American processing plants. (57)

At this same time Mr. C. C. Wilcock, Chief Chemist of
the Droylsden Plant of Courtaulds, Ltd. in England stated
that the whole object of the crease-resist finishing treat-
ment was to obtain formation of the resin in the interior
of the fibers so that it was essential that the fabric was
in its most receptive condition. The fabric should be
essentially dry, relaxed and free from starch, and after
saturation with the crease-resist solution, the excess
liquor then uniformly removed by the nip of the pad mangle.
A further point which he made was that if the condensation
of the urea and formaldehyde were taken too far, if the
temperature of the solution after addition of the catalyst
were too high, or if there were not sufficient pressure on
the pad to remove surplus liquor, there was a tendency
towards resin formation on the surface of the fibers. Any
such excess resin was not only valueless but was definitely
detrimental to the handle of the fabric. For the same
reason, it was also important to avoid migration of the
precondensate from the interior to the surface of the fiber
during the drying operation prior to curing. This was
achieved by carefully regulated even drying conditions. Too
high drying temperatures were also avoided for the same

-17-

reason. Mr. Wilcock felt that the greatest difference in
British and American practice was in the use of the overfeed
pin stenter which was invariably used in Britain for drying
after resin impregnation and prior to curing. In America,
the use of the clip stenter was a general practice. The
British practice was to dry with controlled minimum tension,
while the American current practice made it impossible to
dry with a sufficiently low tension. This was one of the
main reasons for the difference in handle of British and
American crease-resistant spun rayons. (58)

In December of l9hS, A. J. Hall stated that melamine-
formaldehyde resin would be used even more than previously
because it showed greater fastness to washing than urea-
formaldehyde resins. He noted that, although the primary
reason for application of synthetic resins to fabrics was
to give them a better resistance to creasing, it had been
found that the additional weighting simultaneously obtained
was valuable. In fact, it was likely that such resin treat-
ments would be used for weighting and bulking rayon materials
even if no crease resistance was thereby produced. (23)

I In March l9h6, Raymond B. Seymour of the Industrial
Research Institute at the University of Chattanooga stated
that materials given a resin treatment were not effective
until polymerized or "cured". The polymerization process,
which must be carefully controlled, could be observed by the
dyeing of samples withdrawn at intervals during the curing

since the presence of polymers impeded the penetration of

-18- ‘

dyes. (h9) Along this same line Dr. C. P. A. Koppelmeier's
test for the identification of urea resins in wrinkle-proof
fabrics was published in Rayon Textile Monthly in December
l9h6. The procedure involved heating a resin treated fabric
with aniline for it was then possible to determine the
qualitative and quantitative urea determination in urea-
formaldehyde resins. The method would be most helpful in
the application of the Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee process for
their "Tebilized" application required a resin content of
8%. (to)

I In April of 19h6 Walter Sump of the Crown Tested
Department of the American Viscose Corporation published in
both the American Dyestuff Reporter and Rayon Textile Monthly
results of research as to the effect of chlorine retention
on rayon fabrics. It was pointed out that resins were not
the only chlorine retainers. They had definite proof that
if a rayon shirt had been starched, the starch would retain
chlorine in the subsequent laundering wherever it had not
been completely eliminated. Weak spots developed in shirts
and caused holes which puzzled the owner of the shirt as well
as the laundry and usually lead to a complaint that there
was fault in the fabric. (53) In order to test for chlorine
retention, Dr. Epelberg of Cluett Peabody Laboratory demon-
strated an instrument built by Alfred Suter which would main-
tain a constant amount of heat on rayon fabrics for a
definite period of time. Test specimens were then broken by
the tensile strength machine. This test was designed to

-19-

determine chlorine retention and its effects on rayon
fabrics. (52)

During the second half of l9h6, much attention was
given to equipment used in drying and curing of resin-
treated textile fabrics. (39) An important step in the
final drying was the extracting and opening of the fabric.
Creegan stated it should be carried out carefully but need
not be confined to centrifuging and hand opening. Mechani-
cal opening and suction slot extracting were used whenever
the final drying was such as to allow relaxation of the
fiber. (11)

Helmus, in January 19h? suggested a new criteria for
quantity of resins to be used in finishing. He noted that
many fabrics were being given a resin treatment that should
not have this finish. There were many people who did not
realize that when applying urea-formaldehyde resins to
acetate and viscose combinations, the resin had no effect
on the acetate part of the combination. When a piece of
material was given resin to improve its resilience, the
resin content on the viscose should only be enough to give
the resilience required, and it should not be necessary to
load a fiber with material merely for the sake of obtaining
a given resin content. The dyer was requested to give
resin treatments for a certain percent of resin retention.
Many times it was found that the material involved would
almost meet the resilience requirements before the applica-

tion of the crease-resistant finish. During this time the

-20-

English textile industry began building the fabric and
applying the resin finish to obtain the best results,
regardless of the quantity of resin fixed in the fabric. (2h)

This idea of building an ideal fabric for crush-resist-
ance and then applying a resin, if necessary, was attempted
in l9h7. The results were a springy crush-resistant fabric
of a plain balanced weave. The warp was a two-ply yarn; one
ply was a low-count cotton yarn, the other a high-count
(cotton count) filament rayon. The rayon yarn was "buried"
in the low-count cotton ply. The filling was a blend con-
taining about three parts mohair and one part staple rayon.

During the early part of 19h? Powell stated that even
with care exercised throughout the application of resins,
that the construction of the cloth, denier size, length of
staple and twist all exerted an important influence on the
finished result. (A3)

In June, 19h? Fornelli published a process which
minimized fiber damage while still imparting crease-resist-
ance to the fabric. As stated before, the production of
anti-crease effects was made possible by resin formation
inside of the fiber. The presence of resin inside the fiber
altered the mechanical and physical interactions but
unfortunately caused fiber damage. Therefore, work was
carried out to void the penetration of resin into the fiber.
According to Raepsaet, Boston and Perlmutter, in order to
preserve fibers from direct contact with resins, the cloth

was first given a rubber treatment and afterwards impreg-

-21-

nated with urea-formaldehyde. The resulting anti-crease
effect and the hand of cloth were excellent. (17)

In November 19h? 53122 Textile Monthly published an
article on a unique and practical measuring device which
permitted textile mills and textile processors to determine
accurately the amount of wrinkle resistance in woven fabrics.
It was called the "Monsanto Wrinkle Recovery Tester". In
describing this new piece of equipment, Dr. D. H. Powers,
director of Monsanto Chemical Company's textile chemical
department, stated it was a "necessary adjunct" to Mon-
santo's recent line of washable "Resloom" finishes which
made wool, cotton and rayon fabrics both shrink and wrinkle—
resistant. The device, developed by Dr. R. F. Nickerson,
research chemist at Monsanto's textile laboratory in Everett,
Mass., said this device opened opportunities for new fabric
constructions by providing more accurate measurement data on
the wrinkling characteristics of woolens, worsteds, cottons
and rayons. Previously, construction of a consistently
muss-resistant man's suiting had been difficult because of
unsatisfactory and inconclusive testing methods. It was
necessary to know accurately how badly a fabric would muss
before anything could be done about improving it. To be
able to measure the improvement was important. This new
wrinkle recovery tester was a step in that direction. To
determine the wrinkle recovery of a sample one end of the
creased fabric was inserted in a jaw which held it securely

while the other and hung free and was brought in line with

222-

a vertical line on the meter. The degree that the free end
“bounced back" which was from 0 to 180 degrees after a few
minutes suspension was then measured on the meter to show
the actual amounts of recovery. The system was built so
adjustment could be made to correct the differential in
various fabric weights. Among the end results suggested
for the tester were establishment of a set of industry
standards by which consumers would clearly know the amount
of wrinkle resistance contained in wearing apparel as an
aid in merchandising. (3h)

During l9h7, over a dozen patents were found in "Paul
Wengraf's Patent Digest" of the American Dyestuff Reporter
pertaining to urea- or melamine formaldehyde resins. Curing
agents and additions to resins for improving their stability
in storage seemed to monopolize the subjects of the patents
in connection with the resins. An outstanding feature noted
during this same year was a claim made by the Warwich Chemi-
cal Company. They stated their resin, "Formaset SR”, which
imparted a considerable degree of crush resistance and
shrinkage control, reduced the moisture regain of a rayon
fabric from the normal 11% to h%, with a subsequent slight
gain in dry tensile strength and a very measurable gain in
wet tensile strength. (12)

In l9h8, both the Harris Research Laboratories (18)
and the Stamford Research Laboratories of the American
Cyanamid Company, (13) had found many limitations in the

generally accepted TBL test for crease resistance. The

-23-

former laboratory stated that the TBL test was useful and
rapid, but failed to distinguish between stiffness and
resilience. They found more information for the evaluation
of finishes to be obtained by measuring the flexibility and
flexural resilience through a series of degrees of folding.
This was done by forming the natural fold of the fabric and
measuring the height of this fold through a range of load-
ings. The original height of the natural fold was one
measure of stiffness; the work done in further folding was
another; and the ratio of the energy recovered on releasing
the fold to the work done in forming it constituted a
measure of resiliency. (18)

The Stamford Research Laboratories noticed further
limitations of the TBL test for crease resistance other than
the failure to distinguish between stiffness and resilience.
Among these were variable sensitivity between fabrics of
good and poor crease resistance when hung on the wire,
curvature of the specimen caused by the weight of the hang-
ing ends, twisting of the specimen due to spinning and
weaving and handling of the specimen before measurements
were taken. Therefore, to minimize the errors in manipula-
tion an instrument called a "Vise Pressure" was developed
which eliminated handling between the creasing and measur-
ing of the specimen. The precision of measurement with this
instrument was estimated as plus or minus one degree. Pre-
liminary experiments were undertaken and disadvantages of

this test readily became apparent. It was observed that

-2u-

when sufficient pressure had been applied to a sample to
flatten the fold completely, additional pressure served only
to compress the double layer of cloth having no further
effect upon the final crease. Therefore, a method was
devised whereby the area of application of the creasing
force was reduced to a minimum. It consisted of passing a
doubled specimen between rotating metal rollers of small
diameter (0.5 inch), thereby confining the force to a small
area and producing more nearly constant creasing pressures
regardless of fabric structure. As with planefaced loading,
as described above, a hard cloth sustained greater pressure
than a soft cloth. However, with the rollers, difference in
pressure at the crease was less than for flat loading because
of the reduced area of contact. Compressibility of the cloth
also affected to some extent the duration of the creasing
period when rollers were used. The material of slightly
compressible cloth was creased for a shorter time than that
of a higher compressible cloth.. This more or less tended to
compensate for the difference in pressure. Accuracy was not
seriously impaired by slight variation in time and pressure
among various cloths and treatments. Once a sample was
introduced no further handling was required until after the
crease angle was measured. Simplicity of operation and
accuracy of reproduction made the roller pressure instru-
ment useful for both laboratory development and production

control testing. (13)

The research Committee on the Durability of Finishes

-25-

reported to the general research committee meeting of the
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists on
September 23, l9h8 that over 100 Monsanto wrinkle recovery
testers costing $15.00 each were in use, while only three
American Cyanamid motor driven roller pressure machines,
costing $150.00, were in use. It was agreed that both
instruments were superior to the TBL method of checking
crease resistance and that both should be checked against
each other. It was hoped that this work would soon be
completed for there was an urgent need for satisfactory
standards of performance of crease resistant finishes in
today's market but this, in turn, depended upon a satis-
factory method of testing. (3)

Buck and McCord, in l9h9, stated that the crease-
resistance of textile fabrics should be related to the
fiber characteristics and fabric construction. The type
of fiber which made up the yarn and fabric had, perhaps,
the greatest influence on the fabric's crease-resistance.
In the case of rayon, the celluose fiber may have its long
chain-like molecules well-aligned (crystallites) or it may
have a random arrangement of the macro-molecules (amorphous).
The ability of a rayon fabric to recover from a crease once
the creasing forCe was removed, depended upon the ability of
the fiber to recover from its position of strain. Fibers
composed predominantly of molecules in crystalline orienta-
tion, such as are found in high-tenacity rayons produced by

a stretching process, did not return to their former position

-25..

when strain was released because the molecular chains had
slipped over one another and formed new attractive forces to
adjacent groups while in the strained position. 0n the other
hand, fibers which contained a number of amorphous regions
such as the normal or unstretched rayons were less susepti-
ble to wrinkling, because during the time of strain, the

only extension in the fiber was the realignment of the mole-
cules to a position of better orientation with the fiber
axis. (6)

Buck and McCord further point out that fiber diameter
also influenced crease-resistance, in as much as the fibers
with the largest cross section had the greatest bending and
torsional rigidity with which to resist deformation. 'Mois-
ture, too, has an important influence on the elastic proper-
ties of textile fibers. The extensibility and plasticity of
fibers are increased with the absorption of water. Therefore,
both creasing and crease recovery are markedly affected by
atmospheric humidity.

In this same article, these authors claim that the
elastic recovery of cellulosic fibers can be improved by
creating chemical cross-linkages between cellulose molecules.
The treatment of the cellulose with formaldehyde formed
methylene bridges tie together adjacent molecules, with the
result that extensibility of the fibers is reduced, but
elastic recovery increased. For maximum crease-resistance
fiber strain in the yarn construction should be at a mini-

mum. Too high a twist causes fibers to reach their elastic

-27-

limit quickly upon additional stress, while too low a twist
increases the possibility of actual displacement of the
fibers in the yarn when the cloth is creased. They found
that coarse yarns which contain more fibers in a cross sec-
tion and usually have less twist were more resistant to
creasing than fine yarns.

They claim that the ideal fabric for maximum crease-
resistance was thick, and of a complicated weave pattern
which seems to increase its flexibility. (6)

Cameron observed that with the introduction of strong
cross-bonds into viscose rayon fibers; it prevented the
separation of molecular chains and less water was absorbed.
It reduced the possibility of internal slipping resulting in
a greater reversible elasticity at low loads, less plasticity
or irreversible extension at higher loads and reduced plasti-
city for wet fibers. It also decreased the effective pore
size in the amorphous regions making the penetration of the
wet structure more difficult for materials with relatively
large molecules such as dyes. When the viscose fiber was
modified by a typical anti-crease treatment (15%), about 1%
was active in forming definite cross-bonds and the remainder
was deposited interstitially in the amorphous regions of the
fiber. The resin of both categories was effective in modify-
ing fiber properties. (7)

During l9h9, two more laboratory methods for the deter-
mination of chlorine in textiles were introduced----with a

spectrograph (25) and by titration. Due to length of time

-28..

employed, both would be impractical for use outside the
research laboratory. (2)

In 1950 Gagliardi and Nuessle noted that correlation
of changes in fiber properties with changes in mechanical
properties of modified cellulose fabrics had not heretofore
received much attention. As a result there existed consider-
able misunderstanding in the industry about effects of wrinkle-
proofing and stabilizing agents on fabric properties. One
common belief was that the acid catalysts and the high temp-
eratures used to react such agents in the fabric degraded
the cellulose. The basis for this belief was in the tear
strength and abrasion resistance tests of modified fabrics
which were found lower than those of the untreated materials.
They found that such changes resulting from normal resin
treatments had little to do with cellulose degradation,
either hydrolytic or oxidative. They concluded that the
apparent damage to cellulose as exemplified by changes in
abrasion resistance, tear strength and tensile strength
(in some cases) was merely due to a manifestation of
decrease in fiber extensibility. Increasing the elastic
modulus by treatment with cross-linking reagents, produced
fibers which had a lower capacity for energy absorption and
yarns and fabrics which had reduced capacity for distribu-
tion of those stresses applied by tearing, ripping and high
abrasive forces. Also, complete elimination of fabric
shrinkage by any of the wrinkle-proofing and stabilizing

agents produced excessive reduction in tear and abrasion

-29-

resistance. (21)

In connection with the abrasion resistance of resin
treated fabrics, the authors stated, as many others have
previously, that abrasion machines bear only a slight rela-
tion to what is normally obtained in actual wear of clothing.
In actual wear, small stresses are applied slowly over long
periods of time, while an abrasion machine abrades a sample
to complete destruction in a very short period of time by
the application of very high repeated stresses. Moreover,
during normal wear, strains produced in the fibers have a
chance to be relieved, since the stress cycles are far apart.
Therefore, the abrasion machine greatly exaggerates the
reduction in abrasion resistance of fabrics treated with
wrinkle proofing and stabilizing agents.

Recently, with the use of the more precise Shiefer
Abrasion machine, which allows for testing at different
stress applications, they observed that the difference
between the apparent abrasion resistance of an untreated
and resin treated fabric diminished as the rate of abrading
was decreased. At very low stress applications the chemic-
ally modified fabric actually had higher abrasion resistance
than the original untreated rayon sample. Thus it appeared,
that at very low stresses, which simulate actual wear,
reduction in fiber extensibility was no longer a major
influence on abrasion. The increase in elastic recovery
of fibers became more important. (21)

Latter, Gagliardi, Lempka and Nuessle in continuing

-30-

this study on the Schiefer abrasion machine abraded samples
that had been soaked in water for one hour. It was noted
that with increasing concentration of applied resin, the
abrasion resistance in the wet state increased; that for an
untreated rayon fabric, the wet abrasion resistance was actu-
ally much lower if the fabric was not allowed to dry during
the test period; and that for resin-treated fabrics the
abrasion resistance was several hundred percent higher than
that of untreated samples when they were tested continuously
wet. (20)

In 1950 Gagliardi and Gruntfest pointed out that in the
finishing of fabrics intended to be crease-resistant, it is
very important to maintain a multifilament character in the
yarn in order to obtain high crease recovery. If finishing
treatments were applied which tended to cement fibers to-
gether by the disposition of surface materials, the fabric
so treated not only would not be crease-resistant, but it
would actually have a crease-recovery value much lower than
that of the untreated sample. (19)

In June 1950 Nuessle and Bernard reported the effect of
chlorination and ironing variables on the chlorine retention
and tensile strength of fabrics previously treated with urea-
formaldehyde, melamine-formaldehyde, methylated melamine-
formaldehyde or a modified urea-formaldehyde. They found
the concentration of the hypochlorite bath, the bath ratio
(weight of solution per unit weight of fabric) and the type

of resin treatment had considerable bearing on the quantity

-31-

of chlorine retained by a resin-treated fabric. The modified
urea—formaldehyde resin maintained a decided resistance to
overdoses of chlorine, although it did retain a small amount
of chlorine even after very mild bleaching. (36)

At the end of the year some of the fabrics treated with
urea and melamine-formaldehyde resins were still, on occasions,
developing unpleasant odors under a variety of conditions.
The odors were described as fishy,rancid, glue-like, or just
unpleasant. DevelOpment usually occurred in the summer time
during hot, humid weather and were noticed months after the
treated fabric was said to be odor free. Therefore, Linton
Fluck of the American Cyanamid Company charted the per cent
of urea to be used in resin application depending upon the
formaldehyde resin solids in solution. These tabulations,
based on the results of a great many eXperiments, prevented
the development of odors without modifying the desired
finish. (16)

And what is the future of the resin treated viscose
rayon and acetate materials? A spokesman for Union Carbide
stated there are hundreds of fibers that researchers are
thinking about. There are scores in the test tubes, and
dozens in the experimental stage being made into pound lots.
Over the next few years there will be casualties among the
synthetics. Rayon and acetate may get hurt. (59)

However, H. C. Borghetty stated that at the present
point of development it appears that viscose, because of

the low cost of its raw material, wood, easily surpasses

-32-

all other synthetic fibers in quantity and will continue
to do so for several years. (h)

Therefore, consumer acceptance as well as cost of
.materials determine the future of the resin—treated viscose

rayon and acetate fabrics.

-33-

METHODS AND PROCEDURES

For this particular study eight different fabrics
commonly seen in retail piece goods departments were chosen.
Four were plain colored dress weight gabardines, the remain-
ing four were light weight suitings widely used in both
men's and women's ready-to—wear apparel. Two lengths of
the dress weight gabardine in the "greige" were obtained
from the converter. This made possible a comparison of the
original "greige" with the original finished gabardines, and
subsequently the differences in their performance character-
istics. In Group I the gabardine dress fabrics differed in
color only. In Group II the suitings differed in color and
weave construction; although, as a group, all were varia-
tions of the twill weave.

This study is a part of a more comprehensive study of
the Michigan State College Experiment Station. The codingv
was designed to differentiate between the sub projects of
the overall project. The Roman numeral designates fiber
content. The Arabic number indicates a specific fabric
within a group. IAl through IAu constitutes the group of
rayon dress weight gabardines. IAS is the gabardine in the
"greige". IIAl through IIAu constitutes the group of suit—
ings. See pages 181 to 185 for fabrics constituting Groups
I and II.

Fabric specification analysis consisted of: chemical

and microscopic fiber identification, determination of cost

-3u-

per square yard, weight per square yard, thickness and yarn
count and weave structure. Yarn analysis included deter-
mination of yarn number, direction of twist and number of
twists per inch.

Performance characteristics of the original fabrics as
well as specimens withdrawn following the fifth, tenth and
twentieth launderings and corresponding number of dry clean-
ings consisted of drapability, wrinkle recovery, compressi-
bility, compressional resilience, wet and dry tensile
strength and elongation, abrasion resistance and colorfast-
ness to light. Weight per square yard, thickness, yarn
count, dimensional change and colorfastness were similarly
recorded and percent change calculated.

Test procedures conformed to the specifications of the
American Society for Testing Materials Standards 22_Textile
Materials, 19h8, (1) under standard conditions of 65% t 2%
relative humidity and70O t 20 Farenheit.

The chart on the following page summarizes the inter-
vals at_which the specific tests were performed.

In the appendix (pages 153 to 155) are to be found the
cutting charts and specific allocation for sampling of test
specimens. Plate XXV is the cutting chart for the dress
weight gabardines, while Plate XXVI is for the group of suit-
ings. Plate XXVII (Figures A and B) gives a more detailed
illustration of sampling for the original, laundered and dry
cleaned squares. From the original 12" x 12" squares, the

sequence and order in which the tests were performed

-35-

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were drapability, wet and dry tensile strength and elongation,
wrinkle recovery, thickness, compressibility and compressional
resilience. The laundered and dry cleaned squares (cut 15“

x 15" to allow for shrinkage) were trimmed upon their with-
drawal to the 12" x 12" specimens of the original sampling.
For each withdrawn specimen the same sequence of testing was
followed.

Due to the fact that sufficient yardage of the "greige"
goods could not be obtained for complete testing; drapability,
wet and dry tensile strength and elongation, and abrasion
resistance after the tenth laundering and dry cleaning were,

of necessity, omitted.

TESTING PROCEDURES

FIBER IDENTIFICATION
Verification of fiber content was determined by micro-

scopic analysis, burning, acetone and fiber identification

stain tests.

COST PER SQUARE YARD

The cost per square yard of each fabric was determined

by the following formula:

35" xk36" TX cost of the fabric per running yard - cost per
36f x width of fabric in inches square yard

WEAVE STRUCTURE

This was predetermined with the use of a hand lens

before purchase for all fabrics selected for the study.

-37-

Subsequently the weave construction was analyzed and graphed.

WEIGHT PER SQUARE YARD

The Becker Chainomatic Analytical Balance was used to
determine the weight per square yard. (1h) Five specimens
(2" x 2”) from each control fabric with no two squares
having the same warp or filling yarns were conditioned for
2h hours before weighing. The total weight in grams of the
five specimens was recorded. The following formula was used

to determine the weight per square yard.

£5.71 x grams
area in inches

= ounces per square yard (27)

The specimens withdrawn after 5, 10, and 20 launderings
and dry cleanings respectively likewise contained the same
warp yarns as those of the original weight samples (See

appendix pages 153 and. 15h).

THICKNESS

_The thickness of the fabrics was computed with the
Schiefer Compressometer (#8) to the nearest .0005 inch.
Standard thickness, which is the thickness of the fabric
when the pressure upon it is one pound per inch2 for ten
seconds; was used as the basis for comparison. Nine
determinations, corrected for zero reading of the compresso-
meter, were averaged to calculate the original thickness of

the fabrics as well as thickness at each withdrawal.

YARN COUNT

A Lowinson micrometer was used to count the number of

-38-

yarns in an inch. (1) In both the warp and the filling the
yarn count was recorded as the arithmetical average of five
determinations with no two areas including the same set of

yarns.

YARN NUMBER OR SIZE

The yarn number for the spun rayon yarns and the denier
for the filament yarns were read directly on the Universal
Yarn Numbering Balance. (55) For the spun rayons, which are
based on the number of 8&0 yard hanks per pound, a 36" yarn
length was weighed, while for the filament yarns (based on
h50 meters of 1 denier weighing .05 gram), a yarn 90 centi-
meters in length was weighed. The yarn number or denier
recorded was the average of 10 determinations each for warp

and fill ing.

TWIST PER INCH

I The Alfred Suter Twist Tester was used to determine the
number of twists and direction of twist in both the warp and
the filling yarns. (5h) The following procedure was employed.
For single yarns of spun rayon a 10 inch gauge length with a
3 gram deflection load was used. The yarn was completely
untwisted and then retwisted to its original length which
recorded twice the number of twists on the counter for the

10 inches tested. Therefore, this result was divided by

(2 x 10) or 20 to obtain the average number of turns per

inch. An average of the 10 determinations was recorded as

twist per inch.

-39...

For ply yarns the 10 inch gauge and 3 gram deflection
load were again used. The twist was completely removed by
twisting the yarn in the direction opposite that of the
original twist.- In order to determine the complete removal
of twist, a needle was inserted between the plies at the-
left Jaw and moved to the right jaw. The total number of
turns was then divided by 10 for determination of the number
of twists given the two singles comprising the ply yarn. An
average of ten determinations was calculated and recorded as
twist per inch for the ply.

The twist of each single component yarn in the ply was
done separately. While they were in parallel position the
single not being tested was clipped. A gauge length of
5 inches and a deflection load of 3 grams were used in
determining the number of turns per inch for each of the
yarns in the ply. For single yarns of spun rayon, the yarn
was untwisted and then retwisted to its original length with
the counter result divided by twice the length of the yarn
employed. For the filament yarns, a five inch length was
twisted to rupture; a second yarn was untwisted and again
retwisted until ruptured. (NZ) The following formula was
used in determining the twist for filament yarns:

’ N2-N2-2T
and t = T . N1 - N2

L 2 x L
in which:
N2 - Number of turns (twisted) to rupture

N1 - Number of turns to untwist and retwist to rupture

“NO"

T a Total of number of turns in yarns

('1'
II

Turns per inch
L g Length of yarn used

DRAPABILITY

In 19h? John H. Skinkle and Arthur J. Moreau devised a
simplified and sensitive variation of the "Drapemeter",
which had been developed some years previously for the
measurement of "drape" or "handle" of cloth. (51) This
simplified form was used in determining the drapability
values of the fabrics in this study. The apparatus con-
sisted of a ringstand and horizontal rod from which hung
a 2%” paper clamp and a second ringstand with a clamp hold-
ing a millimeter rule. This rule was fixed in position 100
millimeters below the jaws of the paper clamp. The fabric
specimen to be evaluated was cut 100 x 250 millimeters with
the short dimension parallel to the set of yarns being
evaluated. The specimen was folded back on itself with the
face of the fabric on the convex side, and the clamp attached
about %" below the top edges of the fabric. The fabric and
clamp were then suspended from the rod and allowed to hang
for 2 minutes. The millimeter scale was moved to the con-
cave side with the scale touching the two edges of the
fabric. The distance across the straight line connecting
the edge was read in millimeters and recorded as the chord
length. Since the sample was 100 millimeters in width, the
direct reading was likewise a percentage of its width.

Three determinations each were made on the warp and filling.

“ul-

The arithmetical average for each set of yarns was then
determined and the stiffness of the fabric computed as the
geometric mean of the warp and filling (square root of warp

times filling).

WRINKLE RECOVERY

The Monsanto Wrinkle Recovery Tester was used to mea-
sure the fabricb crease resistance or recovery from wrinkl-
ing. (31) Five test specimens each (1.5 cm. wide and h cm.
long) were cut from the warp and filling, with the longer
dimension representing the direction of test. A specimen
holder composed of two thin metal leaves of different
lengths was used for creasing. After conditioning four
hours, the test specimen was placed between the metal leaves
of the specimen holder with one end flush with the longer
metal strip.. The eXposed end was turned back to the hori-
zonal guide line indicated on the shorter leaf. Care was
taken during this manipulation to allow no moisture from
the fingers to get on the area to be creased. The metal
holder with the specimen looped back was then inserted into
the plastic press. With the flat, thicker side of the press
adjacent to the fabric specimen, the press was closed. This
creased the fabric about one-sixteenth of an inch beyond the
end of the shorter leaf. The press-holder containing the
specimen was placed flat on the table and a load of one and
one-half pounds then applied to the platform for five
minutes. The press was next unloaded and the metal holder

with the fabric removed and subsequently mounted on the

-u2_

Tester. The holder was pushed against the outer edge of the
shelf of the movable disc and the crease of the fabric
aligned with the vertical center line on the outer disc.

The dangling leg of the fabric was kept aligned with this
vertical guide line by periodic adjustments for a five
minute period. The fabric recovery value was read directly
from the calibrated scale on the movable disc. Averages of
values for the five specimens each for warp and filling were

calculated and recorded as the wrinkle recovery value.

COMPRESSIBILITY

The compressibility of a fabric is the ratio of the
rate of decrease in thickness at a pressure of 1 pound per
inch2 to the standard thickness. Compressibility determina-
tions were made on the Schiefer Compressometer. (h8) For
determining compressibility the following formula was used:

thickness at 0.5 pound pressure per inch2 -
thickness at 1.5 pound pressure per inch2

= compressibility
standard thickness

COMPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE

The compressional resilience of a fabric is the amount
of work recovered by the fabric when the pressure is decreas-
ed from 2.0 to 0.1 pound per inch2 and expressed as a percent-
age of the work done on the fabric when the pressure is
increased from 0.1 to 2.0 pound per inch2, as measured on
the Schiefer Compressometer. (M8) With this instrument
simultaneous readings of thickness and pressure were taken

at pressures 0.1, 0.2, 0.35, 0.5, 0.75, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0

_h3-

pounds per inch2 and work done was computed by means of the

formula W a 0.025 (6A 4 5B & 6C & 8D 4 10E e 15F e 20G -
70H) where A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H are the thickness in
inches at the above pressures, respectively. The same
formula constitutes the work recovered when the thicknesses
from recovery were substituted. Nine recordings for each of

the above thicknesses were averaged. Thus;

Recovery Value Compressional Resilience
Compression Value in Percent.

BREAKING STRENGTH

Breaking strength was determined by the reveled-strip
method on the Scott Tensile Strength Machine in accordance
with standard test procedure of the A. S. T. M., 19h8. (1)
Twelve specimens were cut one and one-quarter inches in
width and twelve inches in length, six having their longer
dimension parallel to the warp yarns and the other six
-having their longer dimension parallel to the filling yarns.
Each was raveled to one inch in width by taking from either
side approximately the same number of yarns. The specimen
was then cut into two six inch strips---one for the dry
tensile strength test; the other broken after complete
immersion in tap water for a twenty-four hour period. No
two specimens cut for warp or filling breaking strengths
contained the same warp or filling yarns, (See appendix page
155 ). The jaws of the machine placed three inches apart,
had faces measuring one by one and one-half inches with the

longer dimension perpendicular to the direction of load

-ML-

application. The average of six breaks on the dry warp were
reported as the warp dry breaking strength, and similarly
for warp wet tensile strength; and wet and dry filling
strength. All recordings were made to the nearest half

pound.

ELONGATION

Fabric elongation was obtained by an autographic record-
ing attachment on the Scott Tensile Strength Machine simulta-
neously to the determination of breaking strength. (1) The
elongation was an average of the results obtained for six
specimens, and was expressed as the percentage increase in

length.

ABRASION RESISTANCE

Resistance to abrasion was determined on the Taber
Abraser. (56) Five specimens 5" x 5" from the original
fabrics and subsequently from fabrics withdrawn after they
had been laundered 5, 10, and 20 times and after comparable
dry cleanings were selected (See appendix, Plate XXV’and
xxv1i..

Three of the five specimens were abraded for determin-
ing first signs of wear, which was arbitrarily defined as
the first yarn broken, and hole defined as the breaking of
two yarns at right angles to each other. After these deter-
minations were completed for each fabric at each of the
testing intervals, a constant number of cycles was estab-

lished in abrading the remaining specimens. This constant~

-u5_

number of cycles was arbitrarily determined; falling within
the maximum and minimum range of cycles for first sign of
appreciable wear and complete breakdown for all fabrics
within the group. Testing was done using CS-10 calibrase
wheels, under a 500 gram wheel pressure at standard condi-

tions.

COLOR FASTNESS T0 LIGHT

Colorfastness to light was determined with the Atlas
Fade-Ometer. Specimens were subjected to light exposure for
periods of 10, 20, to, and 80 hours respectively and reported
as colorfast to light according to the classification in
Commercial Standard CSSQ’th (8)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

Specimens, cut 15" x 15", were stitched around the
outside edges to prevent fraying during subsequent launder-
ings or dry cleanings. For identification, a white fabric
two inches square with pertinent information indicating
fabric code, time of withdrawal, and direction of test, etc.,
was basted at the upper left hand corner of each test speci—
men. Established points for dimensional stability measure-
ments on fabrics to be withdrawn after the twentieth launder-
ing and corresponding dry cleaning were basted warp wise and
filling wise on the dark fabric specimens and marked with
indelible ink on the light colored fabrics. Five markings,
two and one-half inches apart, were made in both the warp

and filling directions. Because two 15" x 15" squares were

-ué-

laundered twenty times and two similarly dry cleaned, ten
determinations each in the warp and filling directions were
recorded to the nearest 1/16" after the first, secOnd, third,
fifth, tenth and twentieth launderings and after the fifth,
tenth and twentieth dry cleaning. The average of the five
measurements recorded for both warp and filling on the
specimens at designated periods was recorded as the change

in inches and percentage change calculated.

LAUNDER ING PROCEDURE

The specimens were laundered in an Atlas Launder-Ometer.
Into each jar was placed one 15" x 15" specimen, five 3" x 3"
weight squares, or five 6" x 6" abrasion squares, all previ-
ously edge stitched to prevent fraying. Throughout the pro-
cedure the amount of liquid in the jar was ten times the
weight of the specimens laundered. Each sample plus ten
steel balls, (one quarter inch in diameter), and Tide (the
ratio of one quarter teaspoon of detergent to three hundred
cubic centimeters of water) were placed in pint jars previ-
ously heated to 105° F. The jars were capped, placed in the
Launder-Ometer tank and rotated for fifteen minutes. The
samples were then removed, placed in a fresh Tide solution
and the complete procedure repeated for another fifteen
minutes. The jars were emptied and the samples were rinsed
in clear water of the same temperature. After rotation for
ten minutes in the Launder-Ometer tank, they were emptied
and added to a jar of clear water at a temperature of 80° F.

The jars were shaken vigorously and allowed to stand for

“N7-

ten minutes. The specimens were then given a third rinsing
in a jar of cold water; removed, squeezed gently, and rolled

in a towel for ten minutes.

PRESSING PROCEDURES

All samples were pressed on a padded board with a 3%
pound Hoover dry iron. The 20" x 20" board was padded with"
two layers of thin turkish toweling over which there was a
covering of washed unbleached muslin. The fabric with the
right side up, was smoothed out with the palms of the.hands
to avoid stretching or distortion. A chemically treated
press cloth was placed over the material and the ironing
strokes were made with minimum pressure. The movement of

the iron can be seen below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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When the smaller pieces were pressed, they were placed
side by side; so that the grain of each specimen coincided
with the movement of the iron. As many specimens as could
be placed on the board at one time were pressed according
to the above procedure.

It was necessary to make twenty—four movements with the
iron for acceptable appearance of the gabardine fabrics of
Group I. Therefore, all fabrics in the study were subjected

to the same amount of pressing.

The fabrics were then carefully placed on a flat surface

-h8—

and allowed to dry twenty-four hours before being measured
for dimensional change. For each fabric in the study two

15" x 15" squares, five 3" x 3" weight squares and five

6" x 6" abrasion squares were withdrawn for testing after

the fifth, tenth and twentieth launderings.

DRY CLEANING PROCEDURE

The fabrics were dry cleaned and pressed in a commer-
cial establishment in East Lansing. All specimens to be
tested for a specified number of dry cleanings were stitched
together for ease in handling. A petroleum base cleaning
fluid was used. The fabrics constituted a part of a regular
cleaning load and were pressed with a steam presser. Speci-
mens were withdrawn for testing following the fifth, tenth

and twentieth dry cleaning.

COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING

A two inch square of white test cloth was sewed to
each 15" x 15" specimen to be laundered or dry cleaned.
Subjective comparison with the control fabric was made after
each of the first five, the tenth, and twentieth laundering

and after the fifth, tenth and twentieth dry cleaning.

-hg-

INTERPRETAT ION OF RESULTS

ANALYSIS OF FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS

Group I

In analyzing the dress weight gabardines, acetate and
viscose fibers were identified in both the warp and filling
yarns (See Table I, page 51). Ross and Oberleder Fabrics
Corporation, the converters, stated these fabrics to be 50
per cent acetate staple and 50 per cent rayon staple. The
weave construction was an uneven, warp—face twill with the
filling yarns under two and over one and (See Plate XXVIII
in the appendix).

Significant weight differences among the four gabardine
fabrics showed the pink (number 1), to be approximately .15
of an ounce per square yard lighter than the yellow (number
2) or brown (number 3), while the forest green fabric (num-
ber h) was heavier than the other three. The greige goods
‘ weighed less per square yard than any of the finished fabrics.
The greige goods, according to the converter, are given
"full shrinkage" (usually 10 to 12 per cent) depending upon
the color of the subsequent dyeing. More shrinkage occurs
in dyeing dark shades than lighter colors. This probably
accounts for the differences in the weights of the finished
gabardines.

The standard thickness of each finished fabric paral—
leled its weight per square yard. In order of thickness the
pink fabric was lowest, then yellow, brown and the forest
green, which was .002 inch thicker than the pink. Although

the greige material was lighter in unit weight than the

-50-

finished gabardines, it was thicker than the two light

colored fabrics but less thick than the other two.

TABLE I

FABRIC AKALYSIS OF THE DRESS WEIGHT GABARDINES

~Fiber Identification Thickness Weight Per Yarn Count(2)

 

Fabric Warp, Filling (1) Square Yard Warp Filling_
IA Acetate Acetate .0199" 5.5683 111 56
Pink Viscose Viscose ounces per per
inch inch
IA Acetate Acetate .0206" 5.7176 109 56
YeIlow Viscose Viscose ounces per per
inch inch
IA Acetate Acetate .0215" 5.7366 110 55
Brawn Viscose Viscose ounces per per
inch inch
IA Acetate Acetate .0219" 5.9229 109 55
Gr en Viscose Viscose ounces per per
inch inch
IA Acetate Acetate .0210" 5.299u 106 52
Grgige Viscose Viscose ounces per per
inch inch

 

(1} Average Sf‘q determinations.
(2) Average of 5 counts.

The warp yarn count of the treated specimens was twice

that of the filling which indicates a poor balance in weave

structure.

with the warp slightly finer than those of the filling

Table II, page

52).

The warp and filling yarns were of similar size,

(See

The filling yarns for the four fabrics in this group

showed variation in both size and amount of twist.

The fill-

ing yarns in the dark green (number h), were coarser than

those of the pink (number 1), or brown (number 3), or yellow

-51-

(number 2).

The filling yarns of the greige fabric were

approximately the same as two of the finished fabrics

(numbers 1 and 3).

TABLE

Yarn Number (1)

YARN ANALYSIS OF THE DRESS WEIGHT GABARDINES

Twist Per Inch (1)

 

Fabric Warp Filling Warp Filling
IAl Spun Spun S twist Z twist
Pink- 22.7 20.u 18.0 17.8
IA Spun Spun S twist Z twist
Ye low 21.2 22.1 19.3 18.8
IA Spun Spun S twist Z twist
Br wn 21.3 20.2 19.1 16.9
IA Spun Spun S twist Z twist
Gr en 21.u 18.5 19.3 17.1
IA Spun Spun S twist Z twist
Grgige ‘ 21.2 20.6 15.0

 

l6.
(1) Average of’lO determinations each In warp and TIIII%E_

All warp yarns were of S twist, with approximately the
same number of twists per inch in each of the four fabrics.
The Z twist filling yarns, on the other hand, showed a var-
iance of two turns per inch in twist. The twist in the
warp yarns in the greige fabric was three turns lower than
yarns in the finished gabardines.

.Each of the fabrics of Group I measured approximately
H1.5 inches in width and the computed cost per square yard
was $.86.

'The exact finish applied to the fabric was not revealed
by the converters, although they indicated that the fabric

had been given a resin process more costly than an ordinary

-52-

finish and helped give the fabric a little more crease re-
sistance. They made no specific claim concerning the

effectiveness or permanence of the finish.

Group II

Each of the suitings had both acetate and viscose
yarns in warp and filling. The grey, white and orange
yarns were acetate, while the black and brown yarns were
viscose rayon.

Three variations of twill weave comprised the fabrics
in Group II (See Plates XXIX and XXX in the appendix).
Suiting number one was an even warp-face twill of 2/2 con-
struction with grey and brown yarns alternating in both warp
and filling. The weave of fabric two was identical in con-
struction to fabric one, but the alternating yarns in both
directions were black and white. Number three was a combi-
nation even 2/2 twill and herringbone weave. Number four
was a modified twill weave, incorporating black, white and
orange yarns to form a check.

Variance in the weights of the Group II fabrics was
within .5 ounce per square yard (See Table III, page 51; ).
It is of particular interest that the heaviest and lightest
fabrics were of the same weave construction.

The thickness of the individual fabrics did not par-
allel their weight per square yard. Each fabric varied ap-
proximately .001 inch from an average thickness. This vari-
ation may be explained by differences in yarn size and yarn
count. Fabric number two, was the thickest and also heaviest.

Fabric number four, was second in thickness and weight.

-53..

Fabric number one, ranked third in thickness but lowest in

weight.

TABLE III
FABRIC ANALYSIS OF THE SUITINGS

. Fiber Identification Thickness Weight Per Yarn Count(2)

 

Fabric Warp Filling (1) Square Yard Warp Filling_
IIAf‘ Viscose Viscose .0238" 6.6236 79 60
Brown Acetate Acetate ounces per per
Grey inch inch
Twill

IIA2 Viscose Viscose .0259" 7.1573 80 65
Black Acetate Acetate ounces per per
White inch inch
Twill

IIA Viscose Viscose .0228" 6.7191 80 60
Bro Acetate Acetate ounces per per
White inch inch
Herringbone

IIA Viscose Viscose .02h9" 6.9687 80 63
Bla Acetate Acetate ounces per per
White Acetate Acetate inch inch
Orange

Check

 

(1) Average ofA9 determinations

(2) Average of 5 counts each in warp and filling

Variation in yarn count in the fabrics is explained by

the fact that in each fabric the denier and yarn size varied.

These variations compensate to some extent for the differ-

ences in yarn count.

structure as well as

Because of the difference in the yarn

in the weave structure, the weight of

the individual fabrics would necessarily show similar vari-

ation.

in this group was designed to achieve texture, color and

pattern interest.

balanced.

The number of warp and filling yarns for the fabrics

Performance testing showed them to be well

-gu-

It can be seen from Table IV, page 56 that the singles
constituting the ply were of both spun and filament yarns
constructed to compensate for each other. The finer the
group of filaments, the larger was the size of the spun yarn
and vice versa. In fabric four, the orange yarns were
singles composed of filaments only, which were approximately
twice the denier of the singles of filaments used in the two-
ply yarns. They looked the same size as the ply yarns when
woven.

The direction and amount of twist for the singles
(See Table V, page ‘57) in each of the fabrics were similar.
This was also true in combining the two singles into a ply
yarn. An exception was noted in the filament singles, for
the dark colors (black and brown) had been given the Z twist
while the white and grey filaments in the single yarns were
given a slightly higher amount of twist and twist in the
opposite direction. The (orange) singles in fabric four,
although unlike the other yarns, had a balanced amount of
twist in warp and filling.

The width of the fabrics in Group II was approximately
Sixty inches and $1.79 was computed as their cost per square
yard. "Colonial Mills, Inc., New York" was the only identi-
fication on the tags attached to each length of material.
The yard goods department from which they were purchased

stated the fabrics had been treated for crease resistance.

-55-

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-57-

A COMPARISON OF THE FABRIC SPECIFICATION ANALYSIS
FOR GROUPS I AND II

Each of eight fabrics in this study was of twill weave.
The weave construction in the four fabrics of Group I was an
uneven, warp-face twill while three variations of the twill
weave comprised Group II. Two fabrics in this group were
warp-faced twills, a third was a herringbone twill, while
the fourth was a combination of even and uneven twill.

The suitings averaged 1.1 ounces per square yard
heavier and .003 of an inch thicker than the dress weight
gabardines. The fabrics of Group II were more balanced in
yarn count than the gabardines. Because of the unlike num-
ber of yarns in the warp and filling, the gabardines tended
to be easily distorted in shape. 0n the other hand, the
suitings, which had an almost equivalent count in warp and
filling were firm, of smooth hand, good body and weight.

The Group I fabrics were woven of single spun yarns,
which were a blend of viscose and acetate staple. The group
of suitings were woven of two ply yarns in both warp and fill-
ing. Each ply yarn was made of one single yarn of filaments
with very low twist and a single of spun rayon. In every
case the ply yarn was either all acetate or all viscose de-
pending upon the color. The white and grey yarns were ace-
tate while the brown and black were viscose. The orange
yarns of IIAh were acetate and contained only filaments.

The average price per square yard of the gabardines was
$.86 while the twill suiting was $1.79 per square yard. Each

of the eight fabrics had been given a treatment including a

-58—

functional finish for crease resistance. In neither group
of fabrics was the method of application revealed. In
Group I no statement was made by the converter concerning
the degree of crush resistance or permanency of the finish.
No specific guarantee of crease—resistance or its permanency.

was made in respect to the suitings.

-59..

PERFORNANCE OF THE ORIGINAL FABRICS

Group I

The Group I fabrics were purchased as identical except
in color. In specification analysis of these four fabrics
it was evident that they were not the same, for within this
group there were differences in weight, thickness, yarn
count, yarn size and amount of twist. Thus, the performance
of the different fabrics could not be expected to be iden-
tical for any specific test.

The drapability values of these four specimens were
similar (See Table VI, page 61). The brown (number 3)
fabric was the lowest in drapability while the yellow (num—
ber 2) was the best. The untreated or greige fabric was ex-
pected to be resistant to draping because of the warp sizing
it contained. However, due to a supple filling, its drap-
ability was greater than the average of the treated fabrics.

The warp wrinkle recovery values of the dress weight
rayon gabardines were lower than those in the filling.
According to Powers, who stated that the recovery angle of a
fabric must be 100 degrees as measured on the Monsanto
Wrinkle Recovery Tester for the fabric to be commercially
acceptable, neither the brown or green fabrics could qualify
as commercially acceptable crease resistant fabrics because
.of their low warp recovery. (3H) The other two did qualify
as their values were 103 degrees and 109 degrees. The warp
direction of the greige goods because of sizing applied for

weaving recovered only to a small degree, while the filling

-50..

showed acceptable recovery.

Compressibility or rate of compression in relation to
fabric thickness was much higher for the green and brown
specimens than the others in this group. These were the
same two fabrics that had shown the least recovery from
wrinkling in the direction of the warp. 1A1 and 1A2 com-
pressed less readily and similarly had more acceptable re-
covery from wrinkling. The greige cloth compressed slowly
and wrinkled badly. In this group of fabrics there was an
inverse relationship between their rate of compression and
amount of wrinkle recovery.

TABLE VI
PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL DRESS WEIGHT GABARDINES IN
DRAPABILITY, WRINKLE RECOVERY, COMPRESSIBILITY AND
COMPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE

Wrinkle Re- Compress- Compressional
Drapabil- covery (2) ibiéity(3) Resilience in

 

Fabric ity (l) Warp Filling, In. per lb. per cent (3)
1A1 A5 103 112 .0553 36.u8
Pink .

IA an 109 122 .0550 16.57
Yeilow .

1A3 u? 95 119 .0619 A3.7o
Br wn

1A5 A5 96 115 .0623 35.03
Gr en

IA ul L6 105 .0397 23.78
Grgige

Average 45 101 117 .0586 32.9h

 

*IA not included in average
(I? The square root of warp x filling, each of which is the
average of 3 determinations.
(2) Average of 5 determinations each in warp and filling.
(3) Average of 9 determinations.

-61-

The per cent of compressional resilience for the
original fabrics was varied. In fact, they were so erratic
that the average 32.98 per cent could not be considered as
typical of the performance of any one of the four fabrics
in the group. The ability of the yellow fabric to return
to its original state was exceedingly poor when compared with
the other three fabrics of the group. The greige, had less
resilience than the pink, brown and green fabrics.

’TABLE VII
\ PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL DRESS WEIGHT GABARDINE IN

TENSILE STRENGTH (WET AND DRY) AND ELONGATION AND
ABRASION RESISTANCE

Tensile Strength Elongation in Abrasion Re-
in Pounds (l) per cent (1) sistance(2)
Warp Filling Warp Filling *fiF.S.

Fabric Wet Dry Wet Dgy Wet Dry Wet Dry of W. Hole

1A1 81.0 70.3 18.5 32.2 33.9 29.1 23.5 22.9 169 378
Pink

IA 35.8 68.6 17.5 28.8 28.6 28.9 17.9 17.6 175 519
YeIlow

IA 80.1 61.9 20.6 38.5 35.8 28.9 21.8 21.6 226 893
Brgwn
IAg 38.2 60.5 28.2 81.8 36.3 33.1 23.1 18.8 193 532
Gr en

IA 36.6 67.6 18.0 32.8 36.9 27.3 23.2 22.6 215 888
Gr ige

C‘

Average 38.8 68.3 20.2 38.3 33.6 30.0 21.6 20.2 191 880

*IA not included in average *fiF.S. of W.-First Sign of
(1 Average of 6 determinations Wear A
(2) Average of 3 determinations

 

Fabrics three and four had lower warp (dry) breaking
strength while fabrics one and two had lower (dry) filling

strength. The pink fabric, containing a slightly finer warp

-62-

yarn with fewer twists per inch had one yarn more per inch
than the three other fabrics in this group and higher (wet
and dry) warp tensile strength. In filling yarn counts, the
four fabrics had a difference of only one yarn per inch.
With this similarity in yarn count, the difference in yarn
size may partially explain the higher filling (dry) breaking
strength of number three and four. Fabric two which had the
lowest breaking strength had the finest filling yarns with
highest twist per inch. Fabrics one and three had a compar-
able number of somewhat coarser yarns than fabric two. 9
Their filling strengths, which were within two pounds, aver-
aged five pounds more than fabric two. Fabric four's fill-
ing yarns were coarser than the other three fabrics and no
doubt contributed to its higher tensile strength. In each
fabric the wet tensile strength was much less than dry
strength. Based on the group average, the wet warp strength
was approximately 80 per cent of the dry, while filling wet
strength was approximately 59 per cent of dry strength. Both
wet and dry breaking strength of the greige fabric approxi-
mated the warp and filling averages of the four finished
fabrics in this group.

With one exception, the per cent elongation in both
warp and filling was greater in wet strength determinations.
The extent of elongation in each fabric was similar for both
wet and dry breaking strength. Elongation in the greige
goods was greater than the average elongation for the other
fabrics in warp (wet) determinations and both wet and dry

determinations for the filling.

-63-

The abrasion resistance of this group of fabrics for
first sign of wear and a hole was low, three of the four
showing first sign of wear at less than 200 cycles. Between
the fabrics was a variation of 57 cycles. In each case it
was a warp yarn which was broken in the recording for first
sign of wear. The pink fabric had the lowest abrasion re-
sistance. It may have been partially due to the use of
finer and more loosely twisted warp yarns than those of the
other fabrics. The yellow ranked third lowest in the group
in abrasion resistance. It had yarns of comparable size and
twist to fabrics three and four but was thinner and of
lighter weight. The green and brown fabrics which were
heavier and thicker had 18 to 51 more abrasion cycles for
first sign of wear than the other two fabrics. Both the
green and yellow fabrics required over 500 cycles to produce
a hole.. The pink abraded to a hole in 115 fewer cycles than
the other three fabrics. The filling yarns of the green and
brown fabrics deviated in that one had the coarsest filling
yarns with the least amount of twist and the other had the
finest yarns with the highest twist within the group.

The performance of the pink fabric (number 1) may have
been modified by good resin application. According to Buck
and McCord (6) fine yarns with their smaller diameter but
of comparable twist per inch to heavier yarns have less re-
sistance to creasing. Also, thicker fabrics tend to resist
wrinkling. Moisture regain of rayon fabric can be reduced
from the normal 11 per cent to 8 per cent by resin applica-

tion. (12) A subsequent slight gain in dry tensile strength

-6h-

results. While the pink material was the thinnest and had
the finest warp yarns of the group, its wrinkle recovery
was good. Its warp tensile strength (both wet and dry) was
slightly more than in the other three fabrics. This higher
tensile strength and good wrinkle recovery indicate that the
application of the resin finish may have been more effective
in this fabric than in the other fabrics of the group.

The four fabrics in this group were Class O in their
colorfastness to light. All had an appreciable color change

after 10 hours exposure in the Fade-Ometer.

Group II

The ability of the brown and grey suiting (fabric num-
ber l) to drape was somewhat superior to the other three
suitings. (See Table VIII, page €%>). The drapability val-
ues of the latter three were similar; namely, 57, 86 and 58
for fabric number two, three and number four respectively.
Fabric one's somewhat superior drapability could be due to
its lower yarn count, finer yarns, and lower weight per
square yard.

This group of suiting fabrics had good initial recovery
from wrinkling both warpwise and fillingwise. In spite of
weave variation and unbalanced yarn count each of the four
fabrics had consistent wrinkle recovery values of 180 or
more in both the warp and filling. Because values are rel-
atively equivalent in both warp and filling directions, the
garments made from them would recover similarly regardless
of the area creased. Fabric number two which had the highest

wrinkle recovery value was also the heaviest, thickest and

-65-

had the highest yarn count per inch in both warp and filling.

TABLE VIII
PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL SUITINGS IN
DRAPABILITY, WRINKLE RECOVERY, COMPRESSIBILITY AND
c OIvIPRESS IONAL RES ILIENCE

Drapabil- Wrinkle Re- Compress- Compressional
ity (1) covery (2) ibility(3) Resilience in

 

Fabric Warp Filling In.2 per lb. Per cent (3)
IIA

Bro%n/Grey 50 185 150 .0608 26.75
Twill

IIAZ 57 1&8 150 .0558 30°39
Black/White

Twill

IIA3 56 180 185 .0599 28.85
Herringbone

Twill

IIA 58 181 152 .0629 28.98
Che

Average 55 188 189 .0596 27.68

 

III) The square root of warp x filling, each of which is the
average of 3 determinations.

(2) Average of 5 determinations.

(3) Average of 9 determinations.

The rate of compression was highest for fabric number
four.) Number one was second, while three and two ranked
third and fourth in their compressibility. Fabric number
two was lowest in compressibility, highest in recovery from
wrinkling as well as one of the two stiffest fabrics in the
group. The check material (number 8), which compressed so
rapidly had excellent recovery from wrinkling in the filling
but considerably less recovery in the warp direction. This
material was a variation of a warp—face twill weave. Weave

structure may account for this higher compressibility and

lower recovery from wrinkling in the warp. Fabric number

-55-

three did not compress as readily as one or four and showed
less ability in recovering from wrinkles than either fabric
one or four.

The compressional resilience of the four fabrics com-
prising this group was noticeably similar. In all cases
compressional resilience paralleled rate of compression; the
faster the material flattened the less ability it had to re-
turn to its original state. The black and white twill
(fabric number 2) had 30 per cent recovery after compression,
with the herringbone (fabric number 3), brown and grey twill
(fabric number 1) and check (fabric number 8), of 25 per cent
recovery following in this order of compressional resilience.

The warp (dry) tensile strength for fabric one was
noticeably less than that of the other three fabrics in this
group (See Table IX, page 68 ), although it contained only
one less warp yarn per inch. The other three fabrics with
80 yarns per inch in the warp each had a tensile strength of
approximately 73 pounds. This would indicate equalized warp
yarn structure for fabrics two, three and four. In all
cases wet breaking strength was consistently lower than dry.
The wet breaking strength of the warp was approximately 58
per cent of the dry strength.

Filling breaking strength (dry) was approximately 20
pounds lower than warp breaking strength (dry). Fabrics
one, three and four broke at approximately the same number of
pounds while fabric number two was five pounds higher. Wet—

dry strength relationship was comparable to that of the warp.

-67-

TABLE IX
PERFORMANCE OF THE ORIGINAL SUITINGS IN
TENSILE STRENGTH (WET AND DRY) AND ELONGATION AND
ABRASION RESISTANCE

Tensile Strength Elongation in Abrasion Re-
in Pounds (1) Per Cent (1) sistance (2)
Warp Filling Warp Filling F.S.*

Fabric Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry of W. Hole
IIA1 38.0 6u.7 28.9 51.2 26.8 18.7 23.1 18.2 1A1 366

Brown/
Grey Twill

IIA2 A3.0 73.3 32.5 55.9 25.6 18.7 22.8 18.7 308 u5u
Black/

White Twill

IIA
Herging-
bone

11.1%k h1.5 73.2 29.1 A9.2 22.3 17.6 20.6 16.9 304 3A5
Che

hh.2 73.8 29.6 51.1 23.9 17.8 22.3 18.2 198 331

Average 41.7 71.2 30.0 51.8 24.6 18.2 22.2 18:0 238 37h
{F} S. d? W. - First Sign of Wear
(1) Average of 6 determinations
(2) Average_of 3 determinations
Just as the tensile strength performance in each direc-

tion of the fabrics was similar, so was the amount of elonga-
tion simultaneously recorded. The amount of elongation in
warp and filling was almost equal; warp dry being 18.2 per
cent and filling dry 18.0 per cent, while warp wet and fill-
ing wet were 2h.6 per cent and 22.2 per cent respectively.
The white yarns in the filling of IIA“ were smaller and their
. filaments contained less twist per inch than the others in
the group of fabrics. This may have caused the lower (dry)
breaking strength and lower elongation of filling yarns.

The abrasion resistance of the group for first sign of

wear was inconsistent. Fabrics one and three had 1&1 cycles

-68-

and 198 cycles respectively, while fabrics two and four
required 308 and 30h cycles before a yarn would break. In
every case a warp yarn was broken for first sign of wear.
The weight per square yard of the fabrics paralleled their
first sign of wear; the lightest weight fabric having least
resistance in yarn rupture. Fabric two, the heaviest,
thickest and with the highest number of yarns per inch re-
quired a few more cycles before one yarn was broken, and
needed approximately 100 additional cycles beyond the aver-
age of the other three fabrics before a hole appeared.

IIA1 rated Class 2 (no appreciable change after 20
hours eXposure in the Fade-Ometer) in colorfastness to light.
IIA2 and IIA3 rated Class 3 (no appreciable change after no
hours exposure), while IIAh as Class h showed no appreciable

change after exposure of 80 hours in the Fade-Ometer.

A COMPARISON OF THE ORIGINAL FABRIC PERFORMANCE
The dress weight gabardines were 10 per cent higher in

drapability than the suitings. The average for the Group I
fabrics was typical of each of the four materials. However,
this was not true in Group II. The brown and grey twill
was more supple than the other three suitings and better than
the average for the group in this characteristic.

, The suitings were superior to the gabardines in wrinkle
recovery. Their warp and filling averaged h3 and 32 degrees

more than the corresponding averages for the gabardines.

The two groups of fabrics were similar in compressibility.

In compressional resilience the four suitings were com-

-69-

parable. The gabardines were erratic; three of them having
better compressional resilience than the suitings, the
fourth being decidedly inferior.

Both wet and dry breaking strengths for each suiting
fabric was higher than the breaking strength for the gab-
ardines. Unbalanced yarn count in the Group I fabrics re-
sulted in greater differences between their warp and fill-
ing breaking strengths (wet and dry) than the suitings in
Group II.

Filling elongation was similar in the eight fabrics
tested. However, warp elongation for the gabardines was
approximately 10 per cent greater than corresponding elonga-
tion in the suitings. Elongation in warp and filling was
equivalent in the suitings.

Although average abrasion resistance for first sign of
wear was higher in the suitings, the brown and grey twill
recorded the lowest number of cycles for any of the eight
fabrics. The gabardines showed a better performance when
abraded to a hole.

An appreciable color change was seen in each of the
gabardines after only 10 hours exposure in the Fade-Ometer.
Colorfastness to light of the suitings was much better. The
brown and grey twill was rated Class 2 which is qualified as
follows: "Such textiles are considered satisfactory for use
where moderate fastness to light is desirable but not of
major importance." (8) Since three of the suitings were

better than Class 2 this brown and grey twill may be said to

-70-

have "moderate fastness to light." Group II fabrics may
then be rated as having good colorfastness to light in

consideration of their end-use.

-71-

FABRIC PERFORhAECE IN LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING
Group I
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

When considering dimensional stability, this group of
fabrics on the whole, displayed erratic behavior. There was
considerable shrinkage in the warp of the dress weight gab-
ardines after laundering and dry cleaning. In the filling,
both stretchage and shrinkage occurred after successive
launderings, but only shrinkage after dry cleaning. On the
following page is a graph showing the effect of laundering
and dry cleaning on the dimensional stability of the fabrics
in Group I.

These fabrics would be totally unacceptable after any
laundering for even after the first, the average warp shrink-
age, which was typical of the group, was 5.88 per cent (See
Table X in the appendix). Any attempt to stretch a garment
with this amount (approximately 6 per cent) of shrinkage
(equivalent to two or three inches) to its original dimen-
sions would be very difficult. Even if original dimensions
could be restored, it would present the problem of distor-
tion in appearance. In the first laundering the filling of
the pink and yellow fabrics stretched 1 per cent. Dimen-
sional change for the other two fabrics was negligible.

The unpredictable behavior of these fabrics was signif-
icant. After the first two launderings the group, as a
whole, shrank approximately 7 per cent in the lengthwise di—

rection. When measurements were analyzed following the third

-72-

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laundering, the shrinkage for the group was only h per cent.
After the fifth laundering the 7.5 per cent average shrink-
age was quite typical of the group. After the tenth launder- '
ing the individual fabrics presented such diversified
shrinkage that the average warp-wise shrinkage could not be
considered typical for the group. The two dark colors, brown
and green, shrank 3.5 and h per cent while the pastel, pink
and yellow, 6.5 and 7.5 per cent respectively. After the
twentieth laundering, warp shrinkage was approximately 8 per
cent for each of the fabrics. Dimensional change in the
filling was negligible until after the third laundering.
The stretchage in the gabardines ranged from 1.5 per cent in
the brown to h per cent in the pink. After the fifth
laundering, the dimensional change was under 1 per cent but
at the tenth a 1.5 per cent stretchage was again recorded.
By the twentieth, the averaged filling measurements approx-
imated the average initial measurements. The greige goods
in both warp and filling showed a much higher shrinkage than
the treated specimens, which had been given a resin applica-
tion for dimensional stability as well as wrinkle recovery.
After dry cleaning, these fabrics had shrunk h, 5 and
over 6 per cent in length after five, ten and twenty clean-
ings respectively. There was one exception--the yellow
cloth. Its shrinkage was similar after the fifth dry clean-
ing, but only 2 per cent after the tenth instead of the 5
per cent average of the other three fabrics. By the

twentieth dry cleaning, however, its shrinkage was almost

-7“-

the same as the others.

In the filling direction, shrinkage was progressive
through the fifth dry cleaning with little change in the
next five dry cleanings, but some additional shrinkage in
the last ten. Here again the yellow fabric displayed its
erratic behavior.

In the dry cleaning procedure the greige goods shrank
2, l, and 2% per cent less warpwise after five, ten, and
twenty cleanings than the treated fabrics, but closely par-
alleled them in filling shrinkage.

This unpredictable behavior of the fabrics could have
been due to high humidity which is characteristic in Mich-
igan. Less shrinkage occurs when rayons are dried rapidly
and its is quite possible that the relative humidity was
lower on the day of the third laundering. The launderings
were done in the spring, a time of the year when there is a

great deal of rain in Michigan.

WEIGHT PER SQUARE YARD

The weight per square yard for every fabric in Group I
progressively increased with repetitive launderings and dry
cleanings (See Table XI in the appendix). The only excep-
tion was the yellow fabric. Its shrinkage in both warp and
filling was less after the tenth than the fifth dry cleaning.
Therefore, weight increase was less at this interval than in
the preceding one. Although the forest green (number h)
fabric displayed shrinkage equivalent to the other three fab-

rics in this group in laundering and dry cleaning, it showed

-75-

less increase in weight than any of the other fabrics

either laundered or dry cleaned. Number one, the pink fab-
ric, showed an opposite performance. Its shrinkage was com-
parable but.itsincrease in weight was approximately 2 per
cent higher than the other three. A greater increase in
weight occurred for each fabric in successive dry cleanings
than in launderings. From these results greater shrinkage
in dry cleaning than in laundering would be expected, but at
the fifth and the tenth intervals the laundered materials
had shrunk more than the dry cleaned. The greater increase
in weight per square yard in dry cleaning at these specified
intervals may partially be due to less loss of resin. After
the twentieth dry cleaning, the combined warp and filling
shrinkage was greater than at the twentieth laundering.

This would account for the increase in weight per square
yard after the twenty dry cleanings as compared to the twenty
.launderings.

The greige material's increase in weight paralleled its
shrinkage. During launderings the warp sizing of the greige
goods was washed out and a higher percentage of shrinkage
was noted than in the treated fabrics. This resulted in
more weight increase in the greige.

Because the dry cleaning fluid only partially removed
the warp sizing, the greige shrank less than the dyed fabrics.
Therefore, weight increase was less than that of the dry

cleaned treated fabrics.

-76-

THICKNESS

Each of the fabrics thickened after continued launder-
ings and dry cleanings except for fabric 1A2 following the
fifth laundering. It was thinner by only 2.5 per cent.

(See Table XII in the appendix)

After five launderings, the pink (number 1) which was
the thinnest of the original fabrics increased 9 per cent,
the yellow lost 2% per cent while the brown and green in-
creased h and 5% per cent respectively. After the tenth
laundering, the pink (number 1) had increased 18 per cent,
the yellow and brown less than half as much or 8 per cent,
but the green was unchanged. No change occurred in the pink
between the tenth and twentieth interval. However, the
yellow, brown and green at the end of the study were approx-
imately 13 per cent thicker than their control fabrics. The
increase in thickness in this group of fabrics did not par-
allel their dimensional change through the first ten launder-
ings. During the last ten launderings, their increased
thickness may be accounted for by greater shrinkage. The
higher per cent of increase in thickness of the pink fabric
at each testing interval when compared to the other three,
indicates that it may have retained more of its resin finish.

The greige fabric progressively increased in thickness
throughout laundering but at the termination of this study
'its per cent increase was less than that at the tenth interval.
While increased shrinkage occurred between the tenth and

twentieth intervals, the sizing on the warp yarns washed out

-77..

and undoubtedly caused the major reduction in thickness.

The graph on the following page clearly indicates the
behavior of the Group I fabrics in dry cleanings.l Thickness
increased through the first five, decreased from the fifth'
through the tenth, but again increased from the tenth
through the twentieth dry cleaning. Since shrinkage occurred
in these fabrics through the first five, with only a slight
increase from the fifth through the tenth and a more pro-
nounced increase from the tenth through the twentieth dry
cleaning, it may be that more resin was removed by the dry
cleaning fluid between the fifth and tenth dry cleanings
which would account for the decrease in thickness. Thick—
ness of the greige material increased through the first
five, but decreased in’the subsequent fifteen dry cleanings.
Since shrinkage of the greige was consistently more as dry
cleanings progressed, it would indicate that the dry clean-
ing fluid removed the warp sizing after the first five in-

tervals.

YARN COUNT

Shrinkage in this group of fabrics increased yarn
counts proportionately. Negligible shrinkage and slight
stretchage occurred in the filling during laundering. (See
Table X in the appendix). As a result, change in warp yarns
per inch was insignificant--either i one or two yarns per
inch or no change at all (See Table XIII in the appendix).
Filling yarn count, on the other hand, greatly increased due

to the high per cent of warp shrinkage in laundering. After

-78-

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five launderings there was an increase of h to 6 yarns

per inch or increase of 7 to 11 per cent. After twenty
launderings, the filling of three fabrics had an increase
of S yarns per inch and the fourth 7 yarns or a 13 per cent
increase.

Since filling shrinkage in the greige was 2 to 3 per
cent it showed an increase of kin the warp yarn count. Ex-
cessive warp shrinkage in laundering increased its filling
yarn count by ten after the twentieth laundering.

Filling shrinkage during dry cleaning was under 2 per
cent for fabrics two, three and four at the fifth and tenth
dry cleanings and increased the corresponding warp yarn
count by approximately one yarn per inch. The number of
filling yarns per inch increased proportionately to warp
shrinkage--a maximum of four yarns after five, three after
ten and six after twenty dry cleanings.

There was no appreciable change in warp yarn count in
the treated fabrics during laundering but a slight increase
in dry cleaning. Filling yarn count noticeably increased
during both cleaning treatments, with increase earlier in
the laundering procedure than in dry cleaning. The terminal
yarn counts in the filling were slightly less after dry clean-

ings than after launderings.

DRAPABILITY
At each laundering and dry cleaning interval, the drap-
ability of these fabrics increased. (See Table XV in the

tappendix). After the first five cleanings, drapability values

-80-

ranged from 33 to 37, with an 18 to 25 per cent increase
over their initial values. At the next interval, the four
fabrics showed more marked individual differences and now
had less drapability than at the preceding interval, but
still had better performance over the original specimens by
h, 16, 17 and 11 per cent for materials one, two, three and
four respectively. At the conclusion of the study, there
was a wider range in their drapability; namely 32 to kl.
Improvement in their draping qualities over their initial
values was 29, 25, 19 and 9 per cent for the four fabrics in
sequence, one through four.

The greige gabardine after five launderings did not
drape as well as its control. In fact, it maintained only
70 per cent of its drapability and was much lower in draping
performance than the treated materials. The diffusion of
the sizing probably accounts for this change. At the termin-
ation of laundering, its drapability was equivalent to the
treated fabrics and had improved in draping over its initial
performance by 5 per cent. '

After five and ten dry cleanings, the drapability of
each fabric increased more than after comparable launderings.
(See Plate III, page ENE). 'Fabric two was the exception.
Following the fifth dry cleaning it was much lower than at
the corresponding laundering, only 2 per cent compared to
25 per cent. The brown gabardine showed greatest improve-‘
ment in drapability. The other three which performed dis-
similarly at the interval cleanings were equivalent in drap-

ability at the terminal dry cleaning but 10 per cent lower

-81-

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-82-

in performance than the brown material.

At the fifth dry cleaning the greige did not drape as
well as it had initially nor did it drape as well as the
treated fabrics dry cleaned the same number of times. Its
drapability increased until its test results of the twentieth

interval indicated it to perform as well as its control.

WRINKLE RECOVERY

After five launderings and five dry cleanings, signif-
icant improvement over original recovery from creasing was
seen in both the warp and filling of each fabric in this
group. (See Plates IV and V, pages 8k and 85 ). Continued
increases were seen in subsequent launderings and dry clean-
ings but were less pronounced.

The warp wrinkle recovery of the pink and brown mate-
rials increased through the first ten launderings. After
the next ten there was a slight loss in improvement. On the
other hand, the warp of the yellow and green materials con-
sistently improved in recovery from wrinkling with successive
launderings. After five launderings the per cent of increase
in wrinkle recovery for the four fabrics ranged from 18 to 3h
per cent. (See Table XVI in the appendix). After the fabrics
‘had been subjected to five more launderings, their recovery
again increased. Their degree of return after creasing was
130 to 137; a plus 19 to LA per cent change over their in-
itial wrinkle recovery values.- At the end of the study warp
recovery from creasing was 27, 23, 35, and A3 degrees higher

than the initial values for fabrics one through four.

-83-

PLATE 1?
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-35-

The warp greige which had low initial recovery in-
creased 139, 160 and 182 per cent after five, ten and twenty
launderings. Its recovery was 16 degrees lower than the
average of the treated goods after five launderings; 1k de-
grees lower at ten, and only 3 degrees lower after the
twentieth laundering.

The higher initial wrinkle recovery of the filling re—
mained throughout laundering. The pink, yellow and green
showed continuous improvement in the first ten launderings,
with a slight loss after the second ten. After five launder-
ings, the degree of recovery ranged from 131 to 1&3, an in-
crease of 11% to 20 per cent over the initial values. After
ten launderings, the range of 1M5 to 1&8 degrees (19 to 29
per cent increase) is significant as was the 15 to 25 per
cent increase at the termination of the study.

Since the filling of the greige was superior to the warp
in initial wrinkle recovery, it did not show as much improve-
ment during laundering as the warp. Its wrinkle recovery
value (lhlo) was comparable to the treated fabrics after five
launderings; was 9 degrees lower than the average of the
treated materials after ten, but after twenty was again
equivalent to the average of the treated materials. Its in-
crease was 3h, 30% and 35 per cent at the specified testing
intervals.

The warp wrinkle recovery values in this group of
fabrics after dry cleanings were higher than their correspond-
ing values after a comparable number of launderings. Fabrics

two, three and four improved with successive dry cleanings,

-86-

while fabric one showed less recovery in the last ten dry
cleanings. After five, ten, and twenty dry cleanings the
average for the group was approximately 8, 9 and 12 degrees
higher than after equivalent launderings. The warp of the
brown consistently showed greater change in dry cleaning
than the other three fabrics.

The warp greige during dry cleaning recovered more
slowly and to a lesser degree than in laundering. The
wrinkle recovery value of the greige compared with the
treated fabrics was 63, Ml, and 32 degrees lower after five,
ten and twenty dry cleanings respectively.

The dry cleaned materials (fillingwise) after the fifth
treatment had a higher wrinkle recovery average by h degrees
than after five launderings. This was due to the better re-
covery of fabrics one, two and four. At the termination of
the study the filling of the four dry cleaned fabrics aver-
aged 9 degrees higher in recovery than the laundered mate-
rials. Throughout the dry cleanings, no one fabric showed
consistently greater improvement in the filling direction
than the other three. However, fabric two showed less im-
provement in wrinkle recovery than the other three fabrics
at each dry cleaning interval.

The filling recovery of the greige was lower than that
of the treated fabrics throughout the twenty dry cleanings.
It was 8, 11 and 21 degrees lewer after five, ten and twenty

dry cleanings than after a comparable number of launderings.

-87-

COMPRESsIBILITY

Plate VI on the following page shows the four treated
fabrics to have more resistance to compression after five
launderings than their controls. This per cent change in
compressibility ranged from 1 to 21 (See Table XVIII in the
appendix). After the tenth laundering the fabrics went to
the other extreme and had a higher rate of compression than
their originals. However, in the last ten launderings the
trend was again reversed. At the termination of the study
the pink and brown fabrics were 3 and 17 per cent lower in
compressibility than originally, the yellow was 19 per cent
higher, while the green material remained approximately the
same in compressibility as its original.

The greige goods steadily increased in compressibility
through successive launderings.

After the fifth dry cleaning each of the fabrics varied
little from the average for the group which was an increase
over the compressibility of the control fabrics. At the
next testing interval fabrics one, two and four had a much
higher ratio of compressibility, while the brown material
showed slightly less. The compressibility of the four fab-
rics was similar after twenty dry cleanings. The pink and
yellow compressed more rapidly and the brown and green fab-
rics more slowly than the corresponding original specimens.

The greige followed the general trend in compressibil-
ity change but was slower in its rate of compression than

the treated fabrics at each of the testing intervals.

-88-

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-59-

COMPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE

The compressional resilience of the fabrics in Group I
during launderings and dry cleanings was inconsistent. (See
Plate VII, page (91). Averaging their per cent of change at
a specific interval as compared to the original materials
gave a misleading computation, for it was not at all typical
of the per cent of change for each fabric in the group.

Fabric one improved in compressional resilience by 10
per cent after the fifth laundering, in the subsequent five
launderings its resilience had decreased 21 per cent and in
the last ten was only 55 per cent of original resilience.
(See Table XIX in the appendix). Fabric two had almost 100
per cent improvement in its compressional resilience after
five launderings, but this improvement decreased to 60 per
cent at the tenth and was only 30 per cent better than the
initial resilience at the termination of the study. The
brown (Fabric three) when compared to its control progressive-
ly decreased in compressional resilience during the first ten
launderings. The green (fabric four) likewise decreased but
not as rapidly as the brown which at the fifth laundering
was 26 per cent less resilient while the former had only 9
per cent less resilience. At the tenth and twentieth
laundering intervals, they were more comparable than at the
preceding interval.

The original materials had a range of 16 to flu per cent
compressional resilience, but after five launderings the dif-

ferences were less marked (32 to MO); after ten launderings

-90-

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-91-

and in the next ten the four fabrics ranged between 18 and
29 per cent. Each of the fabrics decreased in its compres—
sional resilience between the fifth and tenth launderings.
Between the tenth and twentieth laundry intervals, both the
pink and the yellow decreased, whereas the brown increased
slightly and the green showed no change in compressional
resilience.

The greige material improved in resilience after launder-
ing. At the fifth it was approximately 3 per cent less than
the green, which had the lowest resilience of the treated
gabardines. However, after ten launderings, it was within
1 per cent of the pink which had the highest resilience at
this interval. After twenty launderings its resilience was
superior to any of the treated fabrics.

From Plate VII it can be seen that the compressional
resilience for the dyed fabrics after five dry cleanings was
similar. From the fifth through tenth a noticeable drop was
observed. After the twentieth dry cleaning the green and
yellow fabric showed significant improvement while the pink
and brown improved only slightly.

_The compressional resilience of the greige fabric de-
creased with five dry cleanings but showed improved resil-
ience after ten dry cleanings. At this time it had more
ability to return to its initial height after compression
than the treated materials. However, by the twentieth dry
cleaning, it had lost resilience and had an extremely low
value of only 13 per cent; when compared to the treated fab—

rics it was approximately 10 per cent less than their average.

-92-

BREAKING STRENGTH IN POUNDS

The greatest variance in tensile strength for this
group of gabardines was in their initial values. After a
specified number of either launderings or dry cleanings,
there was less variation within the group. In general, the
yellow fabric was consistently lower than the other three
fabrics in both (wet and dry) determinations for warp and
filling in either cleaning treatment (See Plates VIII and
IX, pages 9h and 95 ).

At the fifth laundering interval, the (dry) warp of the
pink had less strength than originally; the yellow and brown
had gained slightly, while the green remained approximately
the same. The average for the group was 6h.2 pounds and was
quite typical of each fabric (See Table XX in the appendix).
Between the fifth and tenth launderings, fabric one averaged
a 2 pound loss, while fabrics two and three averaged 9 and
6 pounds less respectively. On the other hand, fabric four
increased h pounds. In the following ten treatments fabrics
one and four maintained approximately the same strength as
seen after ten launderings; fabrics two and three gaining
3 and 7% pounds respectively. At the terminal laundering,
the pink, brown and green fabrics varied 2 pounds in
strength, while the yellow was 3 pounds less. The group
average was only .7 pound less than the corresponding initial
strength values.

Filling (dry) tensile strength of fabrics one, two and

three increased through the first ten launderings, with

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-95-

slight loss during the following ten. Fabric four decreased
through successive launderings. At the tenth and twentieth
intervals, the four fabrics had similar filling (dry)
strength.

In general, these fabrics increased slightly in warp
(dry) strength between the fifth and tenth dry cleanings as
compared to a similar loss during corresponding launderings.
The average of the group was 2 pounds higher than the aver-
age of the original materials at the end of the study with
strength variation of 6 pounds compared to 10 pounds in the
original fabrics.

Average filling (dry) strength of the treated fabrics
increased 3 pounds during the first five dry cleanings, but
was comparable to original strength at the termination of
the study.

Wet tensile strength determinations for both warp and
filling were more uniform than dry determinations at any
specified interval. Wet strengths were approximately 60 per
cent or dry strength in both warp and filling. '

Both the (wet and dry) warp and filling of the greige
were similar to the average strength of the treated fabrics

at each testing interval.

ELONGATION

Warp wet elongation was slightly higher than dry after
both laundering and dry cleaning (See Plates X and XI,
pages 97 and 98 ).

There was a slight increase in warp (dry) elongation

-96-

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-93-

during laundering but a slight decrease in dry cleaning.
At the termination of the study the (wet and dry) averages
for the four fabrics in either procedure were similar to
their initial averages (See Table XXII in the appendix).

When compared to their controls both dry cleaning and
laundering slightly increased warp (wet) elongation. The
warp of the yellow fabric which had the lowest tensile
strength elongated less before tearing than any of the other
fabrics.

Wet and dry elongation in the filling after launderings
was equivalent; while the wet determinations were slightly
more than the dry in dry cleaning. The terminal (wet and
dry) filling averages in either cleaning treatment were
close to the corresponding initial averages.

'The pink material had the highest elongation in the
filling while the yellow fabric stretched the least and was
also the weakest at each testing interval.

Dry warp determination in the greige showed more stretch
than the treated fabrics in laundering, but less stretch
after a corresponding number of dry cleanings. The greige
warp (wet) stretched similarly to the finished materials
after five of either cleaning treatment. After twenty it
showed more stretchage than the four dyed materials. Filling

elongation was similar to that of the finished fabrics.

ABRASION RESISTANCE
In general, the number of cycles for abrading to first

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sign of wear and hole increased for each fabric at each

-99...

successive laundering interval (See Table XXIV in the
appendix). However, from the histogram on the following
page the yellow material is seen to be an exception; with

18 fewer cycles for first sign of wear at twenty launderings
than after ten. In each fabric the first sign of wear or
broken yarn occurred in the warp.

During laundering the green fabric showed best resist-
ance to abrading to a hole.

The number of cycles for first sign of wear and a hole
in the initial testing of the greige approximated the aver-
ages of the finished fabrics. However, after five launder-
ings, the greige was superior in abrasion resistance when
considering both first sign of wear and hole. After twenty
launderings, the greige was again comparable to the finished
goods.

In general, there was less variation in the abrasion
resistance of the fabrics after dry cleaning than after a
corresponding number of launderings. The number of cycles
for first sign of wear of the pink material was less after
five dry cleanings than initially, but in the last fifteen
cleanings it showed improved resistance. The brown fabric
recorded the greatest number of cycles for first sign of
wear after five dry cleanings, showed progressive loss in
the following fifteen cleanings and ranked third at the con-
clusion of the study.

The yellow and green fabrics had more resistance to
abrasion after dry cleaning than their corresponding orig-

inals. They required less number of cycles for first sign

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of wear at the tenth than after the fifth and twentieth dry
cleanings.

The histogram shows the number of cycles for a hole to
be approximately the same for each of the fabrics at a spec—
ified dry cleaning interval. An exception was the pink
material which was lower after five dry cleanings than the
other three fabrics.

At the fifth dry cleaning the greige required a few more
cycles for first sign of wear and hole than its original, but
was generally lower than the finished fabrics. At the ter-
minal dry cleaning the number of cycles for first sign of
wear was comparable to the finished fabrics, but lower for
abrading to a hole.

The four fabrics had greater abrasion resistance after
ten and twenty launderings than after a corresponding number
of dry cleanings. One hundred additional cycles each were
recorded for first sign of wear and hole. This was undoubt-
edly due to greater shrinkage during laundering.

It was of significant interest to see how badly the
fabrics were worn on the Taber Abraser before a hole appeared.
Plate XXXI in the appendix is typical of what occurred in
the laundered fabrics while Plate XXXII indicates their
appearance after testing at specified dry cleaning intervals.
The warp yarns of the original specimen were practically re-
moved by the abrasion wheels although it recorded a much
lower number of cycles for a hole than the laundered or dry

cleaned specimens. The number of warp yarns removed in

~102-

abrading to a hole was much less after five, ten, and twenty
launderings than after the corresponding dry cleanings. It
can be seen from Plates XXXI and XXXII that these laundered
specimens required as many or a greater number of cycles be-
fore a hole appeared but they retained more of their warp
yarns during abrasion. At the fifth dry cleaning, warp yarns
were worn as badly as the original was when abraded to a
hole. The loss in the warp when abrading to a hole decreased
with successive dry cleanings. After the twentieth dry
cleaning the degree of wear was comparable to that following
the twentieth laundering.

The same wear occurred in the light as well as the dark
colored fabrics (See Plate XXXIII in the appendix). The
original and the specimen dry cleaned ten times show more
uniformity in wear than the specimen abraded after ten
launderings. The hole at the top of the laundered specimen
was disregarded in comparing fabric wear for it was caused
by a crease in the material due to uneven clamping of the
fabric on the turntable. Both the laundered and dry cleaned
samples were abraded over 700 cycles, thus placing these two
specimens on a comparable basis.

The greige (Plate XXXIV in the appendix) also shows the
high per cent of wear in the original and dry cleaned samples
as compared to the lower amount of wear in the laundered
specimen, although it had been abraded many more cycles. The
laundered specimen looks more tightly woven than the other two.

This is due to the high per cent of shrinkage that occurred.

-103-

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT

Each of the Group I fabrics was Class 0 after five,
ten and twenty launderings and dry cleanings (See Table XXV
in the appendix). This was a noticeable change in color

after only ten hours eXposure in the Fade-Ometer.

COLORFASTNESS DURING LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING

The first detergent solution of IAl turned light pink.
During this same laundering there was considerable bleeding
of the yellow, brown and green materials. The greige fabric
immediately lost color in the washing solution and during
subsequent rinsings a blue tint was still noticeable. The
greige did not retain the marking ink as well as the treated
fabrics, giving some of the specimens a muddy brown color
during the first laundering that was not removed during the
remaining treatments.

Slight bleeding was again seen during the second laun—-
daring for 1A1 and 1A2. 1A3 showed color change in the
laundering solution up to the fifth treatment while the
green material noticeably bled until the sixth laundering.

The test cloth sewed on each of these fabrics was
appreciably discolored after one laundering but tended to
lose this staining through the following nineteen.

The test cloth sewed to each of the five specimens dry

cleaned showed no color change through the twenty treatments.

'10h-

Group II
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

Fabric one, the brown and grey twill, had acceptable
shrinkage (not over 2 per cent) in both warp and filling
after one laundering (See Table X in the appendix). Fabrics
three (the herringbone) and four (the check) had less than
2 per cent shrinkage in either direction through two launder-
ings. The warp of the black and white twill (number 2) had
a 2% per cent shrinkage after the first laundering. The
graph on the following page indicates the effect of launder-
ing and dry cleaning on dimensional change of the fabrics in
Group II.

There was progressive shrinkage in the warp through the
first five launderings with the four fabrics showing simi-
larity in their per cent change. Therefore, the averages of
-l.87 per cent after the first, ~2.11 after the second,
-2.50 after the third and -3.20 after the fifth were typical
for each of the fabrics within this group. Less shrinkage
occurred between the fifth and tenth launderings. Between
the tenth and twentieth shrinkage continued with a final
average of 3.28 per cent. Warp shrinkage in fabric two
occurred earlier in the sequence of launderings than the
other three fabrics. However, by the fifth laundering, the
warp shrinkage in the four materials was equivalent.

Filling shrinkage for each of the four fabrics occurred
during the first laundering with only a slight increase in
subsequent launderings. Fabric two maintained its filling

shrinkage of the first laundering through the following

-105...

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-106-

nineteen, with only a slight deviation at the tenth interval.
The filling of the brown and grey twill (number 1) had more
than 2 per cent shrinkage after the third laundering, which
was retained thru the remaining seventeen. The other three
fabrics of this group were within 2 per cent residual shrink-
age in the filling throughout the twenty launderings.

The brown and grey twill (number 1) and the herringbone
(number 3) had acceptable shrinkage through five dry clean-
ings, while the check (number h) had less than 2 per cent
shrinkage through ten. The black and white twill (number 2)
had more than 2 per cent shrinkage after either five dry
cleanings or launderings.

warp shrinkage in dry cleaning was consistently less
than in laundering.

In the filling, the per cent of shrinkage after five dry
cleanings and five launderings was the same, except for the
brown and grey twill (fabric 1) which had greater shrinkage
at the fifth laundering interval than the corresponding dry
cleaning interval. On the other hand, the average filling
shrinkage, which was typical of the group was greater after
ten dry cleanings than ten launderings. It was significantly
more after the twentieth dry cleaning than the twentieth

laundering.

WEIGHT PER SQUARE YARD

In general, the weight per square yard of the suitings
prOgressively increased through repetitive launderings and

dry cleanings (See Table XI in the appendix). A greater per

-107-

cent of increase was seen after the fifth and tenth launder-
ings than after a comparable number of dry cleanings. At
the termination of the study the dry cleaned fabrics showed
more change than the laundered.

After five launderings fabrics one and two increased 5
per cent or twice as much than the other two fabrics in
weight. At the tenth interval the brown and grey twill
(number 1) and the black and white twill (number 2) still
maintained a comparable per cent increase, while fabrics
three and four had increased only 1 per cent over the pre-
ceding interval. After twenty launderings the per cent
change among the four fabrics was inconsistent. Fabric one
had gained 7 per cent, fabrics two and three 5 per cent and
fabric four only 3% per cent. The higher per cent weight in-
crease for fabrics one and two when compared to the other
two after the fifth and tenth launderings can be accounted
for by their higher filling shrinkage. Due to shrinkage in
both directions in the last ten launderings there was pro-
gressive weight increase.

In dry cleaning as in laundering fabrics one and two
showed the greater weight increase.than either fabric three
or four. Fabric three did not increase as much as four
after the fifth and tenth dry cleaning, but after the twen-
tieth dry cleaning had a slightly higher per cent of in-
crease than fabric four. This had also occurred in launder-
ing. Greater per cent weight increase in fabrics one and two
as compared to fabrics three and four after the fifth and

tenth dry cleanings was due to their higher per cent of

~108-

shrinkage in warp and filling.

THICKNESS

Only two specific trends in thickness were seen when
the suitings were laundered or dry cleaned. Thickness of
the group of fabrics increased significantly in the last
ten launderings and similarly in the first five dry clean-
ings (See Plate XIV, page 110). Between other testing in-
tervals, unlike behavior prevailed.

The herringbone (number 3) was the only fabric to con-
sistently increase in thickness with repetitive launderings.
After the fifth laundering the thickness of fabrics four,
one and two decreased about 1, 1% and nearly 2 per cent re-
spectively (See Table XII in the appendix). After ten
launderings, the brown and grey twill had increased less than
.5 per cent, but in the last ten it increased 9 per cent
over its initial thickness. Also at the tenth laundering in-
terval, the black and white twill (number 2) and the check
(number A) were thinner than they had been after the fifth
treatment. Because both increase and decrease occurred
among the fabrics between the fifth and tenth intervals, the
group average could not be considered typical fabric per-
formance at those specified launderings. After the twentieth
laundering, each fabric had increased in thickness ranging
from 2 to 16 per cent. The average of plus 6.56 per cent
was not representative of any one fabric in the group.

Only shrinkage occurred in the suitings during launder-

ing. Therefore, decrease in thickness through the first ten

-109-

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-110-

launderings may have been due to loss of finish in washing.
Through the twenty treatments fabric three showed comparable
shrinkage to the others of the group, but its increase in
thickness was significantly greater. Perhaps more of its
resin was retained during laundering, but ordinarily crease
resistant finishes are stabilizing and reduce dimensional
change.

Each suiting increased in thickness after dry cleanings
except the black and white twill (number 2) which showed loss
at the twentieth dry cleaning treatment. Fabrics one, two
and four were thicker after the fifth than after the tenth
dry cleaning. However, after the twentieth treatment, fab-
ric one retained the same thickness as it had at the tenth,
while fabrics two and four showed loss and gain respectively.
The herringbone (number 3) consistently increased in thick-
ness with repetitive dry cleanings to a maximum of 12 per
cent.

Since fabrics one, two and four were thicker after five
than after ten dry cleanings, but had less shrinkage during
the first series of dry cleanings, it was presumed that only
a small amount of the resin was lost in the earlier dry
cleaning processes. Loss appeared to be greater in repeti—
tive dry cleanings resulting in decreased thickness and
shrinkage. The herringbone had less shrinkage in dry clean-
ing than the other three fabrics, but a greater increase in
thickness. As in laundering, it may have retained more of

its resin even while shrinkage occurred.

~111-

YARN COUNT

In general, the increase in yarn count paralleled the
dimensional change in the fabrics. The small amount of
shrinkage which occurred in both warp and filling during
both laundering and dry cleaning did not significantly in-
crease yarn count per inch (See Table XIV in the appendix).
Fabric one with approximately 2% per cent filling shrinkage
in laundering increased two yarns per inch warpwise. Fill-
ing shrinkage for the other three fabrics was under 2 per
cent in laundering resulting in a negligible change in warp
yarn count. Warp shrinkage for each of the four fabrics
was approximately 3 per cent and final filling yarn count
averaged 2 more per inch.

Warp yarn count in the dry cleaned fabrics was simi-
larly affected by filling shrinkage. A maximum increase of
three warp yarns per inch was recorded after twenty dry
cleanings. Warp shrinkage increased the filling yarn count
of the fabrics by only one or two per inch after five and
ten cleanings. Additional warp shrinkage in two of the fab-
rics during the remaining ten dry cleanings increased the

count by 3.

DRAPABILITY

\

In general, the drapability of these fabrics improved
through the sequence of launderings and dry cleanings.
Fabric four had the greatest improvement while fabric one
showed the least.

In the first five launderings, fabrics two, three and

~112-

four increased in their drapability by 12, 11 and 1k per
cent respectively (See Table XV in the appendix). Fabric
one, which was superior in initial drapability, decreased
h per cent. The graph on the following page shows that the
fabrics tended to be equivalent in their drapability at the
fifth laundering interval. After ten treatments, fabric
one's ability was the same as its control, fabrics two and
three decreased slightly, while fabric four showed signif-
icant improvement. At the end of the study the drapability
values of the four materials were again similar--within
range of 2. At this time the fabrics showed a 6 to 19 per
cent increase in their ability to drape. The averages at
the specified laundering intervals cannot be considered
typical of any one fabric in the group, due to such wide
variation in individual performance.

Comparable to laundering, fabrics two, three and four
increased and fabric one decreased in drapability during
five dry cleanings. In the next five, each fabric gained in
drapability. After the final dry cleaning, fabrics one thru
four were more drapable than their controls by 8, 17%, 12%
and 17 per cent. Their drapability values were with 3, show-
ing that similarity in performance among the fabrics resulted

after twenty dry cleanings.

WRINKLE RECOVERY
Each fabric in this group recovered from wrinkling to
approximately the same degree as its original irrespective

of how many times it had been laundered or dry cleaned. (See

-113-

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-11h-

Plates XVI and XVII, pages 116 and 117).

At the fifth laundering, the average warp recovery for
the group exceeded that of the control fabrics by 10 degrees
(See Table XVII in the appendix). Warp wrinkle recovery.
varied 8 degrees for the original materials, but at this in-
terval there was a variation of 13 degrees. Also, at this
time, the brown and grey twill recovered as many degrees as
,its original, the black and white twill had increased almost
5 per cent while the herringbone and check were higher than
their originals by 11% and 12 per cent respectively. At the
tenth laundry interval the warp of the four fabrics were
similar in wrinkle recovery. They now had recovery values
ranging from 150 to 15h degrees, an increase of 3 to 10 per
cent over their initial values. At the terminal laundering
fabrics one, two and four showed continued improvement over
'the preceding interval, while the herringbone had slightly
lower recovery. None of the fabrics was consistently lower
or higher in its per cent change in wrinkle recovery. Ex-
cept for the brown and grey twill which had the same warp
wrinkle recovery after the fifth laundering as its control,
each of the four fabrics showed improvement in wrinkle re-
covery at the specified testing intervals.

Wrinkle recovery in the filling of the four suitings
after specified launderings showed only slight variance
from their controls. The greatest variance was in the her-
ringbone which showed consistently more improvement through-

out the cleaning treatments. While it had lower wrinkle

-115-

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-116-

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-117-

recovery than the others initially, it was equivalent to
the remaining three fabrics thereafter. Each fabric showed
some improvement in filling recovery from creasing between
the tenth and twentieth laundering. Warp and filling re-
covery was similar at each testing interval.

During dry cleaning, the warp of the herringbone showed
the greatest per cent change at each testing interval. The
averages of the four fabrics in their recovery from creasing
at each period of test were slightly lower than those at the
corresponding laundering intervals, and showed less per cent
change from the average of the control fabriCs. The warps
of the brown and grey twill and the black and white twill
showed both increase and decrease in wrinkle recovery after
specified dry cleanings while the herringbone and check
showed consistent increase in recovery.

After dry cleanings recovery fillingwise for the four
fabrics was comparable to that after similar launderings,
for they also showed only slight change from their originals.
The only significant difference in the two cleaning treat—
ments was that the dry cleaned fabrics improved slightly

less than those which were laundered.

COMPRESSIBILITY

Each of the suitings compressed more rapidly after five
launderings than its original. The graph on the following
page indicates their performance. From the fifth through
the tenth laundering each was more resistant to compression,

with the herringbone showing the least amount of change.

~118-

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-119-

Following the tenth laundering, the compressibility of fab-
rics one and two approximated their initial recordings,
while the check had a much higher rate of compression than
its original. Between the tenth and twentieth launderings
fabric two increased, fabric three slightly decreased while
fabrics one and four showed significant decrease in com—
pressibility. After the twentieth laundering, the brown and
grey twill was h per cent and the check was 16% per cent
more resistant, while the black and white twill and the her-
ringbone were approximately 7-per cent less resistant in
their compressibility than they were initially (See Table
XVIII in the appendix). The brown and white herringbone
showed less radical changes in compressibility at specified
testing intervals than the other three fabrics.

During dry cleaning, fabrics one, two and four varied
widely in their compressibility; while fabric three, as in
laundering, varied little. Following the fifth dry clean-
ing fabric one had slightly increased, three slightly de-
creased and fabrics two and four showed considerable de-
crease in compressibility. After five additional dry clean-
ings the black and white twill, the herringbone and the
check increased slightly in their compressibility, while the
brown and grey twill was significantly more resistant to
compression. During the remaining ten dry cleanings fabrics
two, three and four again decreased in compressibility while
fabric one increased. At the conclusion of the study fabric
three was slightly higher, fabrics two and four much lower

and fabric one approximately the same as they were initially.

~120-

The suitingsshowed a wider variation in their rate of com—
pression at the testing intervals during the sequence of
dry cleanings than during corresponding launderings. It
was of interest that the black and white twill was more re-
sistant to compression than the other three suitings during

dry cleanings.

COMPRESSIONAL RESILIENCE

After the fifth laundering, fabrics one, two and three
had improved in compressional resilience by 15, 26 and 13
per cent respectively while the fourth fabric, the check,
had decreased 6 per cent (See Table XIX in the appendix).

A noticeable loss in compressional resilience was seen
following the next five launderings, ranging from a 20 to 38
per cent, with three fabrics averaging a change of 21 per
cent. Each fabric showed significant improvement in the sub-
sequent ten launderings (See Plate XIX, page 122). At the
termination of the study, fabric one had increased 7% per
cent, while fabrics two, three and four were now 13, 18 and

3 per cent respectively below their original compressional
resilience values.

The four fabrics decreased in compressional resilience
in the first five dry cleanings, but thereafter the changes
in their behavior was dissimilar. At the tenth dry cleaning,
' the brown and grey twill (number 1) increased 12 per cent
while fabrics two, three and four had lost 25, 33 and 9 per
cent in their compressional resilience compared with initial

values. At the end of the study, numbers one and two had

~121-

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~122-

decreased 28 and h3 per cent while fabrics three and four
had similarly decreased 13 per cent.

Due to both increase and decrease in compressional re-
silience during twenty launderings and dry cleanings, the
average per cent change for the group could not be consid-

ered typical of any one fabric within the group.

TENSILE STRENGTH

The warp dry strength which had averaged 71 pounds
during the initial breaks was approximately 3 pounds lower
after five and 2 pounds lower after ten and twenty launder-
.ings (See Table XXI in the appendix). The warp wet strengths
averaged 1 pound less at each successive testing interval.
Therefore, after twenty launderings the four suitings approx-
imated 38.8 pounds in warp wet strength as compared to their
hl.7 pounds initially. Fabrics two, three and four were
similar in their warp (wet and dry) tensile strengths after
specified launderings and the average of the group could be
considered typical for each of the three fabrics (See Plate
XX, page 12h). On the other hand, the average of the group
could not be considered typical for the brown and grey twill
for it had warp (wet and dry) tensile strength A to 7 pounds
lower than the other three fabrics. During laundering, warp
wet strengths were approximately 56 to 59 per_cent of dry
strength.

Launderings showed little effect upon the filling (wet
and dry) for the fabrics varied from their initial strength--

only 1 or 2 pounds at the subsequent testing intervals. One

-123-

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exception was the brown and white herringbone which in-
creased in filling dry strength after five launderings but
thereafter was similar to fabrics one and four. IIAZ, the
black and white twill was 3 or u pounds stronger in the fill-
ing (wet and dry) than the other three fabrics which had
similar strength. The wet filling strength determinations
were approximately 57 per cent of their dry strength at the
various laundering intervals.

The warp (wet and dry) strengths, after specified dry
cleanings, were similar to corresponding breaks during
laundering (See Plate XXI, page 125). Fabric one, which was
lower in warp tensile strength after either type of cleaning
treatment was closer to the average breaks for the other
three fabrics after twenty dry cleanings than after twenty
launderings.

The filling (wet and dry) strength which was approx-
imately the same throughout the launderings, decreased about
2 pounds after twenty dry cleanings. Fabrics one, three and
four were similar in filling (wet and dry) strength after
dry cleaning while the black and white twill was 2 to h

pounds stronger.

ELONGATION

In general, the four fabrics in both warp and filling
had approximately the same per cent of elonzation at each
specific testing interval (See Plates XXII and XXIII, pages
127 and 128). Wet elongation was slightly greater than dry
at each testing.

-126-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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-128-

 

 

Dry determinations in the warp and filling had similar
elongation at specific laundering intervals. Likewise,
after a Specified number of dry cleanings, each fabric elon-
gated approximately the same amount in both the warp and
filling (See Table XXIII in the appendix). There was slight
increase in elongation (dry) with continued launderings, but
the fabrics tended to have less elongation after additional
dry cleanings.

The warp showed greater elongation (wet) than the fill-
ing irrespective of the cleaning treatment. As the dry
cleanings and launderings progressed the wet determinations

for both warp and filling elongation tended to be lower.

ABRASION RESISTANCE

Fabrics one, two and three required more abrasing
cycles for first sign of wear after launderings and dry clean-
ings than they did when new. Likewise each of the four fab-
rics after either cleaning treatment required a greater num-
ber of cycles before the appearance of a hole. (See Plate
XXIV, page 130).

The two even-twill fabrics improved in their abrasion
resistance for first sign of wear after five launderings,
but showed less resistance through the remaining fifteen.
The number of cycles required for first sign of wear in the
herringbone twill increased during the first ten launderings
but decreased thereafter. The checked fabric progressively
decreased in its abrasion resistance with continuous launder—

ings. Fabrics two and three were significantly more

-129-

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resistant to first signs of wear than the other two fabrics.

The first three fabrics in this group required a simi-
lar number of cycles for appearance of a hole at each of
the three laundering intervals; namely, between 600 and 700
cycles (See Table XXIV in the appendix). The check fabric
abraded to a hole at approximately 500 cycles.

In dry cleaning, the black and white twill required
the highest number of cycles for first sign of wear and
hole at each testing interval. The first sign of wear was
higher for fabrics one, two and three and lower for fabric
four during repetitive dry cleanings as well as in launder-
ing when compared to their controls.

The check material required a greater number of cycles
for abrading to a hole after a specified number of dry
cleanings than after the same number of launderings. In
fact, at the terminal dry cleaning the number of cycles it
required for a hole was comparable to the other three fab-
rics. The herringbone was noticeably poorer than the other
three suitings in its abrasion resistance to a hole after
ten dry cleanings but was comparable to the other three
fabrics after the remaining ten cleanings. Fabrics one and
two required between 600 and 700 cycles for a hole during
dry cleanings; fabric three being comparable after the fifth
and twentieth dry cleaning while fabric four was comparable
only at the termination of the study.

The fabrics in Group II were equivalent in abrasion
resistance after a specified number of either launderings

or dry cleanings. A similar amount of wear is seen in the

-131-

three abraded specimens on Plate XXXV in the appendix.
The same is true as shown in the photographs in Plate XXXVI.
The originals, subjected to a lower number of abrasion
cycles are just as badly worn as the laundered and dry clean-
ed specimens abraded an additional 225 to 325 cycles.

The suitings improved in abrasion resistance during
the first five in both cleaning treatments but changed
little thereafter. This is illustrated (Plates XXXV and
XXXVI) by the specimens laundered and dry cleaned five times
as compared to those subjected to the cleaning treatments
twenty times. The four are equivalent in their wear as well

as number of cycles required for a hole.

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT

Fabrics one, two and three showed (Class 3) no appre-
ciable change in color after no hours exposure in the Fade-
Ometer after the fifth, tenth and twentieth laundering (See,
Table XXV in the appendix). g

After the fifth and tenth dry cleaning, fabrics one and
three were likewise rated Class 3 but at the tenth dry clean-
ing interval, fabric two dropped from Class 3 to Class 2 (no
appreciable color change after 20 hours eXposure). After
twenty dry cleanings fabrics one and three were rated as
Class 2 and fabric two which had shown steady decrease in re-
sistance to fading dropped to Class 1. Fabric four was
superior in that its classification of u with no appreciable
color change after 80 hours of exposure was maintained at

each successive laundering and dry cleaning interval.

-132-

COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING

No color change could be detected at the specified

intervals during either of the cleaning treatments.
A COMPARISON OF FAPRIC PERFORMANCE
IN LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING

Fabrics constituting Group I were erratic in per-
formance with an unacceptable amount of warp shrinkage in
both laundering and dry cleaning procedures. Minimal
stretchage and shrinkage occurred in the filling during
successive launderings, while a 3 to h per cent filling
shrinkage was measured after twenty dry cleanings.

The suitings shrank through the first five launderings
and maintained approximately the same dimensions thereafter.
Their filling shrinkage was nearly equivalent to that of
the warp, which was decidedly different than the noticeably
uneven shrinkage of the dress weight gabardines.

After twenty cleaning treatments the warp in the
laundered and the filling of the dry cleaned suitings had
shrunk approximately 3 per cent. It is very possible that
they could have been somewhat restored to their original
dimensions during laundering for they were handled with care
so not to alter their maximum change.

In general, the fabrics increased in weight with repet-
itive launderings and dry cleanings. The per cent increase
for the group of suitings was less than that for the gabar-
dines because of less shrinkage.

Generally speaking, an increase in thickness occurred

-133-

in the gabardines with successive launderings and dry clean-
ings. None of the suitings showed much change during the
first ten launderings, but the brown and grey twill and the
herringbone had a noticeable thickness increase during the
last ten. The herringbone had thickened by approximately
16 per cent which was comparable to that of the gabardines.
During dry cleanings, the even-faced twill suitings changed
little in thickness while the herringbone and check had
greater increases which approximated the per cent change of
the gabardines. Thickness increases in the group of suit-
ings between the last two testing intervals correlates with
their warp shrinkage in the last ten launderings and both
warp and filling shrinkage during the corresponding dry
cleanings.

Increased yarn count paralleled shrinkage. Change was
negligible in the warp of the gabardines during launderings,
but there were 7 to 8 per cent more yarns per inch filling-
wise due to excessive warp shrinkage. The suitings increased
only 1 per cent in the warp and 3 per cent in the filling
during laundering. During the twenty dry cleanings the gab-
ardines increased only 2 per cent in the warp yarn count
while the filling count increased 7 per cent. Warp and
filling yarn counts in the suitings were only 2% and 3 per
cent greater than the control fabrics.

The gabardines showed higher drapability than the suit-
ings during the original testing and increased in this

characteristic during the sequence of launderings and dry

'13h-

cleanings. The check suiting, which was the stiffest in
the initial testing, increased more in drapability at the
laundering intervals than the other three suitings. In
fact, its percentage change was comparable to that in the
gabardines. IIA2 and IIAu which were the stiffest suit-
ings before cleaning treatments had as much increase in
their drapability after the tenth and twentieth dry clean-
ings as the gabardines at the corresponding intervals.
There was significant improvement in wrinkle recovery
both warpwise and fillingwise in the dress weight gabardines
during laundering, and even greater recovery in dry cleaning.
On the other hand, there was only slight improvement in
wrinkle recovery in the laundered suitings. During dry
cleanings, they showed very small increases in warp wrinkle
recovery and practically no change in the filling. It was
of interest that the gabardines which had low initial re-
covery values when compared to Group II were equivalent to
the suitings in both warp and filling wrinkle recovery at
the terminal dry cleaning. V .
Each fabric in this study was erratic in compressi-
bility. However, the suitings as a group displayed more
similarity in this performance test than the gabardines.
After the fifth laundering, the suitings compressed more
rapidly than the gabardines but the opposite was true at
the following interval. By the time the twenty launderings

had been completed, the eight fabrics in this study showed

similarity to the controls as well as to each other in

-135...

compressibility. The only change in the suitings after

dry cleanings was a slightly lower rate of compression.
However, the gabardines increased in compressibility after
five dry cleanings with an even greater increase after ten.
By the twentieth dry cleaning, their performance was com-
parable to that after the corresponding laundering. At

this time their compressibility was similar to the originals
and to that of the suitings.

The gabardines which were dissimilar in original com—
pressional resilience were much alike after launderings and'
dry cleanings. All of the fabrics were erratic in their
performance but the gabardines were less predictable than
the suitings. In general, the fabrics decreased in resil-
ience but the yellow made a noticeable improvement at each
testing interval. At the termination of the study the re-
silience of the gabardines was equivalent after either type
of treatment, but the suitings were more resilient after
laundering than after dry cleaning. As a result the suit-
ings were superior to Group I after launderings and vice
versa after dry cleanings.

Each fabric varied little from its control in tensile
strength and showed slight variation from the group average
after a specified number of either cleaning treatment. The
gabardines had greater warp strength after dry cleaning
than after laundering. Due to negligible filling shrinkage
and stretchage, the warp lost strength during laundering.

Warp shrinkage in both cleaning treatments increased

-136-

strength fillingwise. The tensile strength in Group II
decreased in both cleaning procedures except for a slight
gain in the filling after five launderings. After dry
cleaning, the warp wet and the filling (wet and dry) strengths
were lower than after corresponding launderings.

Elongation in the fabrics was slightly affected by the
cleaning treatments. At the termination of the study the
per cent elongationfor each of the eight fabrics was sim-
ilar to its original elongation. An exception was seen in
the green fabric which after twenty launderings had 8.3 per
cent less warp dry elongation than its control.

Both groups improved in their abrasion resistance with
Group I showing a greater increase than Group II. An ex-
ception was the number of cycles required for a hole after
five of either cleaning treatment. At this interval Group II
had more abrasion resistance than Group I. The gabardines
were more resistant after ten and twenty launderings than
after the same number of dry cleanings. It was of interest
that both groups improved similarly in the number of cycles
required for a hole at the various dry cleaning intervals.

Colorfastness to light of the suitings was acceptable
while the gabardines were commercially unacceptable in
either cleaning treatment. The gabardines significantly bled
in color during the early launderings but no change in color
was observed during dry cleaning. The suitings showed no

color change resulting from either type of cleaning.

-137-

CONCLUSIONS

Based on the interpretation of the laboratory test

data in this study, the following fabric characteristics

may be considered significant.

1.

The individual gabardine fabrics were significantly
different in weight, thickness, wrinkle recovery,
compressional resilience and abrasion resistance
despite comparable yarn and weave structure.

The greige or untreated gabardine differed signif-

icantly from the treated fabrics in yarn specifi-

catipns and yarn count. It was dissimilar in the
initial functional performance tests but showed
progressive and more comparable performance after
repetitive laundering.

The four suiting fabrics unlike in weave structure

showed greater similarity in their initial com-

pressional resilience and wrinkle recovery than the
gabardine fabrics.

Results of initial performance testing are as follows:

(a) Drapability of the dress weight gabardines was
superior to that of the suitings.

(b) The suitings recovered from wrinkling to a
much higher degree both warp and fillingwise
than the gabardines.

(c) The initial compressibility of the eight fab-
rics was similar.

(d) -The gabardines as a group averaged higher

-138-

S.

(e)

(f)

(a)

(h)

(1)

compressional resilience than the suitings,

but showed greater variance among the indi-
vidual fabrics.

Higher and more equalized warp and filling
breaking strength was seen in Group II as com-
pared to Group I.

At all times, greater elongation and lower
breaking strength characterized the wet deter-
minations.

The suitings showed equivalent performance in
both the warp and filling while the dress
weight gabardines had approximately one-third
greater elongation in warp than in filling.
Abrasion resistance for first sign of wear was
low for all eight fabrics.

The suitings were acceptable and the gabardines
unacceptable in their colorfastness to light.
The initial warp wrinkle recovery of the gabar-
dines was unacceptable in spite of the conver-
ter's claim that the fabric had been treated
for this purpose. The claim made for the suit-

ings was validated by test.

Results of testing after laundering and dry cleaning:

(a)

The gabardine fabrics lost their surface resin
in both laundering and dry cleaning. Each fab-
ric showed excessive shrinkage irrespective of

the cleaning treatment. The pink had the great-

-139-

(b)

est weight and thickness changes after both
cleaning treatments. The green changed the
least in thickness during launderings while
the yellow acted similarly during dry cleaning.
The yellow gabardine did not change its supe-
rior draping qualities or greater wrinkle re—
covery. However, a significant disadvantage
of this fabric was its low tensile strength.
During dry cleaning, the brown was seen to be
the superior fabric as far as performance was
concerned. It had the best drapability,
wrinkle recovery and the highest resistance to
abrasion for either first sign of wear or a
hole. It ranked highest or next to the high-
est in breaking strength during all the testing.
The significant quality of the suitings was
their ability to retain original performance
characteristics throughout launderings and dry
cleanings. Their shrinkage was much less than
that of the gabardines. Their drapability and
wrinkle recovery somewhat improved, while
their thickness and weight only slightly in-
creased. Compressibility was a little lower
after cleaning treatments. Compressional re-
silience improved after five launderings but
otherwise was lower than the original record-

ings. Each fabric displayed erratic behavior

-1uo-

in the compressibility and compressional re-
silience testing. Tensile strength (wet and
dry) and the corresponding elongations were
only slightly affected by successive cleaning
treatments. Abrasion resistance improved dur-
ing the first five cleaning treatments, but
showed little change thereafter. All the suit-
ings had good colorfastneSs to light and clean-
ing treatments.

The retention or permanence of the finish applied

to the suitings may be due to the looser yarn and

weave structure which permitted better penetration

of the resin although other variables as curing

time and temperature may likewise have influenced

its permanence.

Performance testing results show that the applied

finishes were more effective throughout repetitive

dry cleanings than in successive launderings.

Due to excessive shrinkage and fading, none of the

four fabrics in Group I could be recommended to the

consumer-buyer as completely satisfactory. However,

in spite of its low initial wrinkle recovery fab-

ric 1A3 (brown) was superior in performance when

dry cleaned and would be rated as the best fabric

in this group.

The suitings cost $.93 per square yard more than

the gabardines. In spite of this higher initial

cost they were superior in initial and terminal

-1u1-

10.

11.

performance testing. Each fabric could be
recommended to the consumer-buyer.

Because the "greige" fabric had not been shrunk
its physical characteristics were unlike the .
treated gabardines. For further studies it is
recommended that a length of fully shrunk, dyed
fabric without a resin treatment be used as the
basis for comparison. In this study, shrinkage
and sizing interfered to such an extent that

valid conclusions showing the effect of a resin
treatment could not be obtained.

It would be significant in the future to study the
relationship between yarn and weave structure and
the permanence of the resin treatment. The resins
and conditions of treatment in this study were not
revealed. Therefore, no comparisons due to yarn

and weave structure could be made.

-1h2-

SUMMARY

The purpose of this study was to evaluate specifi-
cations and compare the physical characteristics and func-
tional performance of two groups of crush resistant treated
rayon fabrics. Each group contained four fabrics which
were evaluated for initial effectiveness in crush resistance
and other characteristics and the extent and rate of change
that occurred after a specified number of launderings and
dry cleanings.

Four dress weight gabardines alike except in color
comprised the first group and four suitings unlike in weave
structure constituted the second group. A length of the
dress weight gabardine in the "greige" was used for com-
parison with the "finished" gabardine fabrics.

The eight original fabrics were analyzed in the labora-
tory for initial specifications and performance character-
istics under standard ASTM methods, instruments and condi-
tions for testing. Fiber identification, analysis of yarn
structure--size and twist, weave analysis, yarn count,
weight, thickness, compressibility, compressional resilience,
wrinkle recovery, drapability, tensile strength and elonga-
tion, abrasion resistance and colorfastness to light were
the tests made. Performance testing was repeated after the
fifth, tenth and twentieth laundering and dry cleaning for
determination of changes in the above characteristics in
each of the cleaning procedures. Also, the degree and rate

of change resulting from twenty launderings and dry cleanings

-1u3-

were determined.

One half of the specimens were laundered in the Atlas
Launder-Ometer at 1050 F. and pressed so as to minimize
dimensional change. The others were dry cleaned at a com-
mercial establishment in East Lansing with a petroleum base
cleaning fluid and pressed with a steam presser. Dimensions
were taken after the first, second, third, fifth, tenth and
twentieth launderings and following the fifth, tenth and
twentieth dry cleanings.

Analysis of test data showed the four gabardines,
supposedly identical except in color, to be significantly
different in weight and thickness and comparably different
in their initial performance. The gabardine fabrics were
poorly balanced in weave structure.

The four suitings in Group II were heavier and thicker
and had a better balanced yarn count even though they were
selected primarily for their appearance value effected
through yarn, weave and color variation.

Excessive warp shrinkage occurred in both laundering
and dry cleaning the gabardines with minimum residual area
change in the suitings. Generally speaking, the thicknesses
and weight per square yard of the fabrics paralleled their

shrinkage.

Original crease resistance values of two of the gabar-
dines was below the commercially acceptable standard. Each
was acceptable after repetitive launderings and dry cleanings.

The suitings had higher and better balanced crease resistance

‘lhh' I

values initially and retained their effectiveness in crease
resistance during the entire sequence of laundering and dry
cleaning.

The gabardines had better initial draping qualities and
showed improvement during laundering and dry cleaning. The
suitings, which were firmer and less drapable originally,
showed less improvement.

The fabrics were erratic in both compressibility and
compressional resilience testing. There was such variance
in the rate of compression of the individual fabrics that
group averages were not typical of any one fabric. The
suitings showed less change in compressibility after either
cleaning treatment than the gabardines.

Compressional resilience was lower after repetitive
launderings and dry cleanings; the suitings showing less
loss in resilience than the gabardines. v ‘

The eight fabrics showed only slight changes in tensile
strength and elongation. In general, significant improve-
ment in abrasion resistance occurred after five launderings
and dry cleanings with only slight change occurring during
the remaining fifteen cleaning treatments.

The gabardines showed excessive bleeding of color
during laundering and significantly poor colorfastness to
light. The suitings were superior in colorfastness to light

and both types of cleaning.

-1h5-

LITERATURE C ITED

1.

2.

3.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

LITERATURE CITED

American Society for Testing Materials, Committee D-l3
on Textile Materials, A.S.T.M. standards on textile
materials, The Society, Philadelphia, Pa., 19u8.

Atkinson, Edward R., and Sargent, Neil A., Determination
of chlorine picku§, American Dyestuff Reporter, 38
(October 17. 19h9 . 7&3-

Barnard, Kenneth, Durability of finishes American
Dyestuff Reporter, 37 (December 27, l9h8), 871.

Borghetty, Hector 0., Trends of the textile industry,
American destuff Reporter, 39 (November 13, 1950),
777-781, 786.

Bouvet, Rene, Recent developments in synthetic fibers
and their use in fabrics of the future, American 2127
stuff Reporter, 3k (May 7, l9h5), 187-188, 193.

 

Buck, George 3., Jr. and McCord, Frank A., Crease-
resistance and cotton, Textile Research Journal, 19

(April 19kg), 216-2k7.

Cameron, W. G. and Morton, T. H., Permanent finishes
on viscose rayon depending on cross-bonding, American
Dyestuff Reporter, 38 (August 8, 1949), 575-581.

Commercial Standard CSS9-hh, Textiles---testing and

reporting, U.S. Department of Commerce, National Bureau
of Standards, l9-23.

 

Crease resistance explained by Lee 00., Rayon
Textile Monthly, 26 (July, 19H5), 137.

Crease-resistant rayon fabrics, Rayon Textile
Monthl , 25 (August l9hh), 6h.

Creegan, H. F., Control of shrinkage and crease resist-
ance of viscose ra on fabrics American Dyestuff Reporter,

35 (November h, 19 6), Slh-Slé.

Crush resistance and shrinkage control, Rayon Tex-

EEIE‘Monthix, 28 (November 19u7), 101.

 

DeWaard, R. D., Hvizdak, A. and Stock, C. R., Improved
evaluation of the crease resistance of resin treated
fabrics, American Dyestuff Reportey. 37 (August 9, 19h8),

513-5189 336‘5370

“1&7-

17.

18.

21.

22.

23.

214..

25.

26.
27.

28.

Directions for the christian becker chainomatic
balance, Christian Becker, New York, l-h.

Effect of crease resists on dyed fabrics, Rayog
Textile Monthly, 25 (May 19hh), 85- 6

 

Fluck, Linton A., Urea can be used to stop fabric odor,
Textile World, 100 (December 1950), 133.

Fornelli, Domenico, The use of synthetic resins in the
finishing of fabrics, American Dyestuff Reporter, 36

(June 2, 19h7), 285-287, 312.

Fourt, Lyman, Fisk, Katharine, Minor, Francis W. and
Harris, Milton, Effect of crease resistant finishes on
stiffness resiliency, Textile World, 98 (March 19h8),
228‘230 e

 

 

Gagliardi, D. D. and Gruntfest, I. J., Creasing and
creaseproofing of textiles, Textile Research Journal,
20 (March 1950), 180-188.

 

Gagliardi, D. D., Lempka, Angela and Nuessle, A. 0.,
Low-load abrasion tests aid resin-treatment evaluation,
Textile World, 100 (December 1950), 133-135.

 

Gagliardi, D. D. and Nuessle A. 0., Modification of
fiber and fabric prOperties by wrinkleproofing and

stabilizing agents, American Dyestuff Reporter, 39

(January 9, 1950), 12—19.

Goldberg, J. B., Tomorrow's textiles---yesterday's
test methods, Rayon Textile Monthl , 25 (November

19AM). 65‘670

Hall, A. J., Recent textile developments in Britain,
American Dyestuff Reporteg, 3h (December 3, 19h5),

Helmus .Weldon, Problems connected with dyeing and
finishing synthetic fabrics, American Dyestuff Reporter,
36 (January 13, l9h7), 2—5.

Johnson, William W. A. and Norman, Daniel P., The
spectrographic determination of chlorine in textiles,
American Dyestuff Reporter, 38 (May 2, l9h9), 361-363.

 

Lebrun, Philip, Finishing rayon shirting, Textile World,
9h (February 19hh), 120.

 

Lomax, James, Textile testing, Longmans, Green and
Company, New York, 1937, 85.

Lynn J. Edward Resins for textiles American Dyestuff
Reporter,'3h (December 3, 19h5) 506-507, 510.

-1u8-

29. Lynn, J. Edward, Resins on textile improve even good
fabrics, Textile World, 95 (March 19h5), 99.

 

30. Lynn, J. Edward, Twenty-five years of textile resin
finishing, American Dyestuff Reporter, 35 (December 2,

1986). 653-65h-

31- Monsanto wrinkle recovery tester, Bulletin No.
2:1, Monsanto Chemical Co., Boston, Mass., l9h7,1-E.

 

 

 

 

32. New art of crease-proofing, Rayon Textile Monthly,
25 (December l9hh), 99.

33. New cyanamid department, American Dyestuff Reporter,
ERITmay 7, 19kg), 20a.

3h. New wrinkle recovery tester, Rayon Textile Monthly,

 

ZB—TNovember 1987), 66.

35. Norwick, B., Textile finishes and fiber identification
agains, American Dyestuff Reporter, 33 (October 23, 19hh),
2.

36. Nuessle, A. C. and Bernard, J. J., Some aspects of
chlorine retention by resin-treated fabrics American
Dyestuff Reporter, 39 (June 12, 1950), 396-(03.'

37. Nute, Alden D., Some recent aspects in the finishing of
textile fabrics with urea and melamine resins, American
Dyestuff Reporter, 3h (June h, 1985), 230-231.

38. Nutter, William 8., Crush-resistant woven textile fabric,
Textile Research Journal, 17 (July 19h7), hon.

39. Pagerie, Marcel J., Progress in drying and curing of
resin-treated textile fabrics, Rayon Textile Monthly,
27 (September 19u6), 105-106.

 

ho. Pfeiffer, J. C., Identification of urea resins in
wrinkle-proof fabrics, Rayon Textile Monthly, 27
(December 19h6), 71-72.

 

kl. Pingree, Raymond A., Durable fabric finishes, Rayon Tex-
tile Monthl , 26 (May 19kg), 103-105.

 

82. Platt, Helen King, Comparison of the service qualities
of certain all-silk, all-rayon, and silk and rayon
mixed fabrics before and after laundering, Unpublished
Thesis, Kansas State College of Agriculture and Applied
Science, l9h0.

#3. Powell, Richard W., Fabric finishing, American Dyestuff
Reporter, 36 (January 13, 19u7), 13-15, 17:18.

 

-1ug-

b5.

f/

A6.
1+7.

(+8 0

50.

510

520

SS.

56.

S7-

58.

Powers, D. H., New resinous materials and their effects
on various fibers and fabrics, American Dyestuff Reporter,

3h (February 12, l9h5), 77-79.

Powers, D. H., Shrinkare--what we are doing about it,

Rayon Textile Monthly, 27 (March 19kt), 97.

 

Powers discusses creasability of rayons and spuns,
Rayon Textile Monthly, 25 (October l9uu), 58.

 

Reinhardt, John W., Two standard methods for curing resin
finishes, Rayon Textile Monthly, 26 (September l9h5),
109-’110 o

 

 

Schiefer, Herbert F., The compressometer, an instrument
for evaluating the thickness, compressibility, and com-
pressional resilience of textiles and similar materials,
Bureau of Standards Journal pf Research, 10 (June 1933),

705-7I3.

Seymour, Raymond B., Facts and fiction about fibers and
finishes, American Dyestuff Reporter, 35 (March 11, l9h6),
128-130.

 

 

 

Shapiro, Leonard, Crease-resistant finishes with urea-
formaldehyde resins, Rayon and Synthetic Textiles, 30
(August laua). 39-u1-

Skinkle, John H. and Moreau, Arthur J., A new simplified
form of the drapemeter, American Dyestuff Reporter, 36

(October 6, l9h7), 559-560.

Stump, Walter, The effect of chlorine retention on rayon
fabrics, American Dyestuff Reporter, 35 (April 8, l9h6),
177-178.

 

 

Stump, Walter, The effect of chlorine retention on rayon
fabrics, Rayon Textile Monthly, 27 (April igto), 69-70.

 

Suter, Alfred, New precision twist tester instruction_
sheet, Alfred Suter, New York, l-3.

Suter, Alfred, Universal yarn numbering balance instruc-
tion sheet, Alfred Suter, New York, h.

Taber abraser model E-hOlO instruction manual,
Taber Instrument Corporation, North Tonawanda, New York,

19HS, 320

Wachter, Arthur B., Crease resistant finishes American
Dyestuff Reporter, 3h (November 19, l9h5), h6fi-H65.

Wilcock, C. C., Crease resistant finishes, American
Dyestuff Reporter, 3h (November 19, 19h5), E55-K55.

-150...

59. Wools battl
6 with th
T5357, 128-131, 1hM-152. e synthetics, EEEEEBE: (May

-15’1-

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mmDA<> Nmm>oomm mqmszB
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-166-

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m.~ 4 oo. 4 mmmo. om.o 4 omoo. 4 Nmmo. :o.o 4 omoo. 4 mo. oomo”
o.om 4 H Ho. 4 oojo. mo.mH 4 oooo. 4 mmmo. po.mH 4 oooo. 4 m o. omoo
~o.m 4 oHoo. 4 mH o. .3 4 omoo. 4 pmoo. oH.H 4 oooo. 4 m mo. oomo.
oo.mH 4 oooo. 4 oo o. ow.o 4 Fjoo. 4 oomo. om.mH 4 :uoo. 4 oojo. :mmo.
oo. 4 oooo. 4 oHoo. om.oH 4 mooo. 4 momo. o:.m 4 Hmoo. 4 mmoou oooow
mmnacooao man popu<
mo.H 4 HHoo. 4 momo. Ho.H 4 oooo. 4 mooo. m>.NH 4 opoo. 4 mooo. oomo.
mm. H 4 :oHo. 4 mmmo. mo.oH 4 mooo. 4 Nomo. om.HH 4 Hpoo. 4 oooo. omoo.
mm. 4 oo. 4 mooo. mo.oH 4 oooo. 4 moo. oo.oH 4 :ooo. 4 m oo. oomo.
oo.o 4 N oo. 4 Homo. oo.m 4 oHoo. 4 Homo. oo.mH 4 oooo. 4 o. :mmo.
Ho.m 4 mmoo. 4 Homo. o:.H 4 oooo. 4 mHoo. oo.mH 4 oooo. 4 mooo. :ooo.
mmnfinoocsoa mopm<
mo.H 4 oooo. 4 momo. mm.om 4 mNHo. 4 omoo. om.mH 4 mooo. 4 moo. oomo.
:m.mm 4 HoHo. 4 oo o. om.oo 4 NHmo. 4 oooo. H.mm 4 pomo. 4 ooo. homo.
: .p 4 oooo. 4 N o. om.om 4 ooHo. 4 mHoo. m.m 4 mmoo. 4 :oo. mmoo.
om.: 4 mmoo. 4 omo. pm.” 4 m oo. 4 :ooo. om.o 4 mmoo. 4 «ooo. oHoo.
mm.~ 4 oo. 4 momo. Ho.om 4 m mo. 4 oo o. oo.om 4 oHHo. 4 oooo. ommo.
o..o 4 m oo. 4 mooo. oo.m 4 oHo. 4 Nm o. om.oH 4 Ho 4 . .
m :Homeo no oopoo
m . 4 mooo. 4 Homo. om.mH 4 oooo. 4 ow o. mo.HH 4 owoo. 4 ono. oomo.
pm.om 4 oHHo. 4 :Hmo. oo.Hm 4 oooo. 4 no o. om.o 4 :moo. 4 Hmoo. Nomo.
m . 4 mooo. 4 Hmoo. o.HH 4 oooo. 4 mooo. mo.Hm 4 HmHo. 4 mo o. .mmoo.
~>.~H 4 oHHo. 4 oomo. m.m 4 Hmoo. 4 o oo. oo.oH 4 ooo. 4 Hm o. oHoo.
oo.oH 4 moHo. 4 mmoo. pm.mm 4 moHo. 4.m so. no. 4 ooo. 4 odmo. ommo.
H>.m 4 mHoo. 4 ommo. oH.mH 4 :ooo. 4 pmoo. mo.mH 4 onoo. 4 o~:o. mmmo.
omcmno R coconoh om omcmno R oocopou OH omcwno R coconom m Hacawfipo
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mcoprHSono
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mm.MH4 o>.m 4 oo.:m mo.mm4 Hm.o 4 H .oH oo.om4 oo.m 4 oo.mm m .om
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om.om4 . H4 :o.mm H~.m:4 om.mH4 oo.om do. 4 N. o:.om H «H
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mm.p:4 m.oH4 o:.oH mm.~ 4 :m.oH4 o:.oH om.o 4 om.m 4 o.Hm mo.mm m
oo.m:4 oo.om4 : .mm oo.: 4 oo.mm4 H>.oH o:.om4 om.HH4 H.mm o~.m:
oo.om4 mo.: 4 o .Hm H:.oo4 Ho.oH4 om.om om.oo4 mm.oH4 NH.mm om.oH m
oo.:d4 ~m.oH4 Hm.om oH.Hm4 no.4 4 mo.om o4.oH4 o~.m 4 om.o: o:.om H «H
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TABLE XX
BREAKING STRENGTH IN POUNDS

After Launderi

%%%er 5

Dry Wet

 

After 10 After 20
Dry Wet Dry

Wet

Dry

 

{ginal

Or
Wet

08 1268

M.

508108
3&333

419.1ruép

um

*

21.0

36.9
+ 7458 + 3.9

31

21.
+ 8.

 

After Dry Cleaning;

 

.29

9.0K4é26L49_ Hcaloaizohw
O O O 0 O O O O O
1:9750Au1, kw L47AUL%

$66666 3%3333

+ k

u 7
30107825 35774589
0 O O O O O O O O O 0 O o 0
8508981 10101702
334333. 212212+

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98374 20 2885 13
O O O O O O O O O O O 0
15 10 $10 5355 52
76 6 3333 3

+ t

h. 5
5210 as 5162 1h
0 O O O O O O O O O 0
9710 91 1912 lb
33hh 3+ 2122 2?

0].

7 8
328111 4 04.462807
0 e o o o 02 e o O o o o o

37 0 9589580
(06 f 333333.“
]
11060hflH8272973
O o O O O O O O O O O O 0 0
17 7.80/1 2133022
In». 333 2222221

r +

3&951043 285883

0 O 0 0 O O
0h17h. 28u12u
7,0101%? 3234.433
081268 55/0202
0 O 0 010.8% &—h0¢ 0 000
1508 hdo
141244333 112212
123k” 123k”
P e 8 66
r 98mm 88
m mm n mm
eh 1 eh
m4 n he
% %

 

average of 6 breaks

not included in calculations
Ravelled Strip Method

ch is an

*IA
EaS

-169-

TABLE XXI
BREAKING STRENGTH IN POUNDS

After Launderin 3

After 20
Dry

Wet

DOriginaI A er 5 After 10
Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry

Wet

 

 

 

3&333. 23222.
L... 1
3744862 084“”.520
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1
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Each is an average of 6 breaks

Ravelled Strip Method

-170-

TABLE XXII

 

 

 

ELONGATION
After Launderings
Originil After 5 After 10 After 20
Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry
IA
Warp 1 33.9 29.1 35.3 33.7 36.8 35.8 31.8 36.8
2 28.6 28.9 32.0 28. 33.1 33.5 33.2 27.5
6 3546 2849 849 32. 36 1 33.9 3548 33.7
36.3 33.1 0.1 2.1 36 6 35.6 7.5 8
*5 3642 2743 3%4g 14 7 141 374 5
Average 33. 30.0 3 . 31. 9 35 6 m6 364 6 30.
change + 8.93 +6. 33 + 5. 95 +15. 67 9 2.98 + .67
IA
Filling 1 23.5 22.9 26.8 23.9 L%123.3 23.6 22.2
2 17.9 17.6 1 .0 17.9 1§6 18.8 18.5 18.7
21.8 21.6 23.7 18.6 19.5 22.1 19.
45 23.2 22.6 26.8 21. 6 26.1 20. 9
Average 21.6 20.2 22.0 199 21.9 20.2 21.6 20. 2
% change + 1.85 -l. 69 4 1.39 -- -- --
After Dry Cleanings
IA
Warp l 33. 29.1 36.1 30.5 36.6 30.1 35.5 30.7
2 28. 28.9 29.3 25. 0 23.6 28.8 33.5 29.0
6 3546 2849 384 9 29 o 3 46 2941 3 .9 3146
3643 3341 354 6 3743 3146 3741 3 40
*5 3649 2743 304 9 g 3843 2343
Average 33.6 30.0 36.5 2 36.9 29.9 35.8 31.3
5 change 4 2.68 -6. 0 4 3.8 .33 4 6.554 6. 3
IA
Filling 1 23. 5 22.2 26.0 23 3 26.3 21.5 25. 22.3
2 17.9 17. 20. 6 18.2 19.0 18.2 19.17.8
21.8 21.6 26. 2 19.9 23.5 17.5 22. 5 18.9
6 23.1 18.8 26.2 19.6 23.5 18.6 26. 0 22.5
5 23.2 22.6 25.20 0 25.5 19.2
Average 21.6 20.2 23. 20 2 22. 6 22. 8 20.6
change 410.19 -- 4 6. 63_-15.96g4 5_56 4 .99

 

not included in Average or % change
30h is an average of 6 computations

”gm

-171-

TABLE XXIII

 

ELONGATION
After Launderings
—Driginal After 5 After 10 After 20
Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry
IIA
Warp 1 26.8 18.7 21.6 16.9 23.2 18.8 26.6 18.9
2 25.6 18.7 22.8 19.6 22. 2 18.2 22. 7 20.8
23.9 17.8 23.5 19.8 22. 9 19. 26.2 19.6
22.3 17.6 23.0 18. 6 23. 6 21. 26. 8 20.1
Average 26.6 18.2 22.7 18. 7 23. O 19 26.1 19.8
% change - 7.72 + 2.75 -6. 50 r 7.16 - 2.03 + 8.79
IIA

Filling 1 23.1 18.2 21.8 19.0 22.6 19. 21.3 20.0

 

 

2 22.8 18.7 20.6 18.9 19.6 16. 20.1 17.8
22.3 18.2 20.6 20.5 20.3 17.6 21. 8 18.9
20.6 16.9 18. 17.3 18.5 16. 0 19. 0 18.6
Average 22.2 18.0 20. 18.9 20.2 17. 5 20. 6 18
% change - 8.11 {5.00 - 9.01 - 278 - 7. 21 + 6g66.
After Dry Cleaningg
IIA
Warp 1 26.8 18.7 23.7 17.2 26.3 15.8 26.3 18.0
2 25.6 18.7 22.7 19.0 22.3 16.9 22.8 18.3
23.9 17.8 22.6 16. 0 22.2 16.6 22.3 18.0
.g 17.6 23.8 17. 9 22.2 17.6 22.8 17.6
Average 26. 18.2 23.2 17.5 23.2 16.8 23.0 18.0
% change - 5.69 - 3.85 -5.69 - 7.69 - 6.50 - 1.10
. IIA
Filling 1 23.1 18.2 21.8 19.0 22.8 19.9 21.3 20.0
2 22.8 18.7 20.6 18.9 19.6 16.8 20.1 17.8
g 22.3 18.2 20.6 20.5 20.3 17.6 21. 8 18.9
20.6 16.9 18. 17.3 18.5 16.0 19. 0 18.6
Average 22.2 18.0 20.1 18.9 20.2 17.5 20. 6 18

% change - 8.11_:5.00 - 9.01 - 2.78 - 7. 21 - 6.66
Each is an average of 6 computations

-172...

 

...... 6...... .1

TABLE $123?
RESISTANCE TO iABRASION

 

 

 

Or191nal After Launderingg After Dry Cleanings
After 5 After 10 After+20 After 5 After 10 After 20
-::—F. S. ~::-F. s. 813’. S. 4:913“. S. ; -::-F. S. 96F. 3. *F4 34
of W. Hole 6f W. Hole of W. Hole of W. iHole of W. Hole of W. Hole of W. Hole
IA

1 169 378 276 510 366 735 617 926 133 580 328 796 66 826

2 175 519 238 562 669 858 651 . 906 392 751 269 707 10 829

3 226 693 261 583 687 888 567 983 £06 801 660 755 76 876

6 193 532 8 830 535 969 579 g991 96 771 351 778 .7? 829

9%; 215 994 161 899 508 1988 217 672 , 37g 730

_évcrage 191 666 291 616 659862 506 950 381726 367 758 +0 839
:‘gscrencc +100 +136 +268 +382 +313 6670 +190_ +266 +156 +278 +215 +359

7 change + 52.6 + 28.3 +160.3 + 79.6 +163.9 + 97. 9 + 99.5 + 51. 2 + 81.7 + 57.9 +112.6 + 76. 8
11A s

1 181 66 288 667 266 672 216 653 615 602 355 630 286 656

2 308 ‘56 393 608 9% 668 362 659 66 718. 393 651 675 676

3 198 3 1 808 653 66 689 33 65 . 05 608 329 688 380 631

6 306 365 286 515 260 510 .686 268 558 206 571 266 637

_ arreaee 238 376 363 606 362 630 28% 612 61 622 321 585 351 650
v, 30*1’36 +1 +232 +106 1256 +238 +17 +2 8 + 8 +211 +113 +276

6 P1ange 6i 1 + 62.0 + 63.7 + 68. 6 + 19.3 A 634 6 + 7349 + 643 + 3 49 + 56.6 + 6745 + 73- 8

 

 

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