4;: ,_~ . I A ESTUDY OF THE EFFECTIVENESS QF GREASE-RESISTANT FINISHES on A SELECTED GROUP or COTTON .EAmcs Thesis for the Degree of M. A. MIGHIGAN STATE COLLEGE Esther Anne Meacham I952 This is to certify that the thesis entitled A Study of the Effectiveness of Grease Resistant Finishes on 3. Selected Group of Cotton Apparel Fabrics presented by Esther Meacham has been accepted towards fulfillment of the requirements for MasterJLAth degree mm and. Clothing M 'o professor ”€33: " . x "3. :1 \ l v, ‘31! 01" .. :‘f , ~ - «2%,: I 4 "Eufh ,-‘_\‘ 'Iu‘ ‘ . I ‘ 1 "- “<1.“ i(d,.lh :- .." > I. o :,." I .K ‘0 i I.__ V _)-‘-V _ , .> . “‘L'r¢'-f“. A? ‘ ‘ 1.": ,. 2 ,. ‘1» '5 r .'1? ‘ 0' ~ .\ ’— “i .‘...~ -\ 0-}.‘1. . .~ . , ~' U "‘51:: .. .‘ _' I ll 1111‘ .IIIII1“J Cl ‘ O - —. O . ' e o _ I. 0 e ‘ . I... ‘. eh ' c r x) ' ‘l I s O A STUDY OF THE EFFECTIVENESS 01' CREASE-RI'SISI'ANI‘ FINISHES ON A SELECTED GROUP OF COTTON FABRICS BY Esther Anne Meaoham ‘ t \.~ ' 'l"\.\ 3.. C“ N ' . g' or, J, - \.\~ , , _ \ , \» \.\\. . “ \ ‘\\\‘ \- < ’ . ' ». . A THIS. IS l ' -' H'_ 3‘" . Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of l ”khan State College of Agriculture and Applied Science 1 I in partial fulfillment of the requirements ! l . for the degree or ‘ ...._‘ worms . ' 'j' W of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts ' l W 1952 .;- .t: .‘3. '31:“)1 . . I .7. b \ .? , THESIS A iCNOWIEDGdeHI'S ./ .1,- The author wishes to express her sincere . appreciation to Miss Hazel B. Strahan, Head, 1. Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts, mchigan State College, for her guidance in planning and carrying out this project. Also, to Miss Sarah Brier, instructor in research, for her able assistance in the tent ins laboratory, the writer wishes to convey her thanks. t. a? f '. Y?‘ ‘o TABLE OF CONTENTS mil; 0 I. 1;. nomtion forTeetingoeeeeeeeoeeeoeeeeeoeeeooeoee ’ I. .~---~ - '0 3.. Te”nothOdSQOOQOIeeeeeeoeeeceeeooeoooeeeeeo'oeoeooo \lr " in... number... 5" ” Twists per Inch..... “‘14" Yarn count 5: "'--'eight per Square Yard................~...~..E..-.-.-..°. 3"; Thickness................-.........'..-.‘..'..-..-..-.-..-. Tensile Strength and Elongation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yang: .mgbility...................W.................... "u" crgase-reaistanOOQQQOQIOeeeooeeeeeeeeeoeeeooeeeee Laundering Procedures............................ PEPE. '8?! ..... WMION OF MTSOOICCOOOOOOOOO0.000COOCOCOOOOC mammal or Fahrics Within Sroups..........w...... t - ison or Fabrics Between Groups............... 25 MEN” ';b . :..zQOOOOOOOO00.0.0000...O...OOOIOIOOOOOOOOOOCOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOO "I, "3’ qm.eeeeoeeeeeeeoeeeeeeeeeeeeeekeoeeeoooeee QM...“ 4-..; ~ -e'Je‘“-..._ .. - Mmeeoeeone.eeoeoeeooeeee00.000000000000000000000 1080.000...IIOOOOOOOOOOOOC0.00IOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOCO ,. \Q: . .-. . l I . -, a. 5... - 1 .1 -"J~ e ' Page 1 6 16 18 net’s Tables I. PLATES ANH TABLES EFFECT OF LAUI YDERING OI»! GREASE RES IS'I‘ANCE VOILES............ ..... ............................... POl‘IDmPUFTLUS-LIIB ......... . ........ ...... ...... emu-.13... ............. ..... WAYS... ................................ .......... SEESUCKEBS. ............. . ...... ...................... MOIRES........................... ..... ................ EFFECT OF IAU'NDEZRDTG ON DRIPABEITY VOILES AND FOLDER PUFF It SLIIJS........................ GINGIIME AND CE" IL'CI‘S................................ SMOKERS 41.11]: hIOIlESee-eoeeeeeeeeeeeeeoeoeooeeeeeeeo YARNNUMBER AND TNISTS PER INCH YARN COUNI'.... ...... PERCENMGE DmENs IONAL $2.1qu IN IAUI‘ZDERDIG. . . . . . . . . . . THICKNESS OF FJ'LBRICS IN INCHES WEIGEI' PER SQUARE YARD IN CUNCES AND PERCENTAGE CHANGE IN IAUNDERIITG GREASE RESISTANCE VIBES PmcmmAGE CHANGE IN GREASE RES ISTANCE IN LAUNDER INC. . DRAPABEITY mums MGMAGE CHANGE IN DRAFABEITY IN IAUNDERHGG. . . . . . . . Page 29 35 39 47 53 31 '77 78 79 82 85 87 88 3‘33; mmmmmsrmnmrommsm 89 :19! n. momma: (ES-am IN mm: STRENGTH IN 9‘33!- “‘| .’ mum-OOOOOOIOOOOOOOOOIOIOOOIOOOOOOOO0.0.00.0... 91 311. mm WET PERCEMAGE EONGATICN.................... 93 Q ‘~ 9 e .' 5‘ s C O! —| . -. l I .'\r II 5 t. '_AL' 0 ‘ ran}, DERODUCT ION _ .801» or. °“ " - ‘ ’ DYI‘RCDUGPION Th't‘ . In.this age of ”made to order” fibers, it is increasingly important for the manufacturer of fabrics made frou.nrtursl fibers to use means of ingroying the less desirable 1uslities of these fibers. New, the consumer ‘has,before her products made of synthetic fibers which combine many of the desirable characteristics of fabrics that have been available for nany years. Cotton, unless made more serviceable, is in danger of losing gqye of its long-standing popularity. he the variety and quantity of the new’synthetic fabrics increrses, their production cost is lowered, eqnpetition becomes hecner and to an extent their position in the textile industry is jeopardized. . y:_Cotton fabrics can be, and have been for many years, improved by one qgcmpre of many finishing processes. T. Fred Oesterling of the Philadelphia gnartermaster Depot defines the word "finish" as that which completes or Esgfects. Therefore a textile finish may be described as a treatment or passage, physical or chemical, which has as its chief objective the eggpletion or perfection of a greige fabric (20). This, of course, is a g,ry_broad interpretation of textile finishing, and includes a larger area than is feasible to consider in one writing. ghemdcal processing of cotton fabrics, to narrow the field slightly, in an ancient business dating back as far as the manufacture of cotton clothhitgelf, In spite of this fact, the finishing of cotton by chemical appliggtipn was still in its infancy about one hundred fifty years ago ‘Ihcn.cotton manufacture became a mechanical, rather than a hand, operation. list about one hundred years ago, in 1850, John.nercer, in experiments carried on in England, discovered the process now known as mercerization. \ . 18 one of the best-known and most widely used of all present-day chemical processing methods for cotton (2). . .Resin finishes which add to the functional properties of fabric have ‘hoen in use commercially for the last twenty to thirty years. In the last decade, industry has progressed by leaps and bounds in the field of functional finishing. Statistics Show that 136 companies are manufacturing and selling chemicals for textile finishing in the United States today as compared to 44 companies in 1939. Production of textile chemicals by four large companies-APohm.and Haas, American Cyanamid, Warwick Chemical, and lbnsanto--has increased 1500% in the last ten years (22). v . In this study we are concerned with the resin finishes which are now applied to cotton fabrics to improve their quality of crease-resistance. According to a study conducted by the‘United States Department of hgriculture, one of a woman's chief objections to garments made of cotton was the fact that they wrinkled excessively. The answer to this objection has been found in crease-resistant treatments. In 1948 less than 1% of the cotton yardage produced was treated for crease-resistance (2). In rebruary 1951, hr. L..A. Fluck, of the American Cyanamid Company, wrote: "The yardage is still, of course, a very small percentage of total sales. The rate of increase in the use of resin finishes seems to indicate, however, that within the next ten years relin.treated yardage particularly rayon and cotton, will exceed untreated." (6) -2- ilhch of the crease-resistant treated cotton goes to the ready-to-wear industry. Garments made from.this fabric usually bear a label furnished ‘hy the manufacturer stating that such a finish has been applied to the rubric. The price is little or no higher than that of garments made from ‘untreated fabrics. .A few years ago, the price of treated and untreated cotton yard goods ‘uas significantly different. at the present time, there is less variation in cost, so that it is no longer a chief concern as to whether the higher price is Justifiable. The question that is of utmost importance to the consumer is the durability of the finish that has been applied. .Also the buying public IdJJ.vmmw to know if other desirable qualities of the fabric are sacrificed in order to attain an effective degree of crease-resistance. It is the purpose of this study to determine the initial effectiveness of crease-resistant finishes applied to a selected group of apparel fabrics designed for various consumer and use; and to determine the extent and rate at which wrinkle—recovery and other physical characteristics change during laundering. In more specific terms, this study has been set up: (1). To determdne the effectiveness of the resin finish on: (a) A.group of four cotton voiles. (b) .A group of four powder puff muslins. (c) .A group of four novelty ginghams. (d) A.group of four Everglaze moire finish cottons. a. P%_P—— (2). (3). (4). (5). (5).. To determine the degree of crease-resistance of untreated fabrics including: (a) .a group of four chambrays. (b) A group of four seersuckers. To determine the permanence of the applied resin finish of the fabrics listaiin (1.) by comparison of their original physical prOperties with those same properties after twenty-five launderings and at other specified laundering intervals. To compare the degree of wrinkle—recovery of ”treated" and "untreated" fabrics, according to their original characteristics and after being laundered twenty-five times. To compare "treated" and "untreated" fabrics for (a) original tensile strength and (b) change in tensile strength which may occur at specified intervals in laundering up to and including twenty-five launderings. To compare the dimensional stability of ”treated" and "untreated" fabrics. mm 0.? LEERAWRE '11!" \ - REVIEW OF LITERATURE Included in the review of literature is a brief history of the development of resin finishes applied to cotton fabrics to impart crease- resistanee, and a short description of the processes in current use. Also included is a report of difficulties that have been encountered in applying a completely satisfactory functional finish. Some of these problems have Lbeen overcome, where others remain unsolved. Such knowledge is necessary -tar understanding the expected performance of these finishes, and for interpreting the results of the laboratory tests in this study. The history of the use of synthetic resins in textile finishes dates back to about 1926 when the Tootal Broadhurst Lee Company's process for crease-resistance was introduced in England. In trying to discover an~effec- tive treatment to make fabrics resistant to wrinkling, the chemists worked mith phenolic and keytone-aldehyde resins as well as urea-formaldehyde resin; only the latter becoming commercially important. Thefrootal Broadhurst Lee process was first used in the United States in 1933 for application to cotton fabrics (25). . In the textile industry, finishes and processes have been developed which produce desirable effects on fabrics, but the "why" of the discovery has not always been apparent. The purpose of all finishes has been to broaden the uses of fibers and fabrics, but they have also stimulated the scientists to seek more knowledge of the basic structure of fibers. The unis facts that are known concerning the make-up of the fibers, the more pessihility there is for further improvements. There is no better way to .lesrn a fiber's inherent nature than by making it do something it has never done befbre.(l4). y { -5- "q, -. ‘_ n .‘ .“ . L. "W"- W 1,” does cotton wrinkle more easily than other fibers? Why is M less recovery from creasing in cotton than in wool? why does E.» mlloation of a resin change these qualities? The answers to these Minna m not be fully understood, but study has been done in an “at to unveil the mysteries which lie behind the performance of textile fiberskunder cert-t in conditions. Crease-resistance is dependent upon the resilient char cteristics of the fibers, yarn structure, and the fabric construction (:3). It is known that the structure and mechanical properties of fibers are of mJor importance in explaining the natural crease-resistance of ' wool and silk; the poorer armies-resistance of the better oriented mural cellulosic fibers, cotton and linen; and the very poor crease- Wanda of regenerated cellulos ic rayons. Higher elasticity and Mic recovery are directly related to crease-resistance. The molecular d nicellar structure of the fibers undoubtedly account for the elastic WI, and cross-linkage between molecular chains are partially mible for the remarkable elest ic recovery of wool (23). wu'- -.'rhs chemical, physical and mechanical properties of cellulose fibers “tnbries may be altered in varying amounts by treatment with various (”in compounds whose action on cellulose appears to involve the formation cf either chemigal or physical cross-linking of the molecular chains. The new, of such cross-linkages reduces the swelling of the cellulose, Writ dyeing properties, decreases its solubility, reduces creep “fiber. ortensib-ility, raises the elastic recovery, produces wrinkle m and dimensional stability, increases the wet strength of the "fibers. reduces the general toughness of the fibers and produces fabrics '. ' ‘ x '. s t‘ .' \‘ v .‘., «a: - ‘ ‘ - ' - l v I, " ' t. ’4‘) et’leser resistance to tear and abrasion at high stress application.(9). ” but . . It is also known that the crease-resistance of a faoric improves as u z w theimoisture content is reduced, and conversely, high humidity or steam flbfi‘ * . . renders fabric more readily creasible (23;. Concerning moisture and its rulv‘. effect on cellulose, Gruntf st and Gagliardi make this statement: *0“ " "....Treatments rhich can cause the exclusion of water from the interior of the cellulose can modify fiber properties to give wrinkle-resistant fabrics. This follows from the fact that water is a good plasticizing agent for cellulose. The wrinkle-resistance of cellulose fabrics is much better when no water is present in the fibers. Heating the air at high temperature gives fabrics which are temporarily wrinkle-resistant. As moisture is again taken up from the air, the wrinkle-resistance '1‘ decreases until the original state of the fibers is reached (10)." 'r“ Cotton--the fiber with which this writing deals--is a very complex structure. It is made up of tiny, carefully ordered fibrils laid in a succession of spiral layers that give an unusual combination of strength and flexibility. Chemically, the cellulose fiber is made up of a serioes ar'cgaloos units arranged and to end. Occasionally a hydroxyl group protrudes from.the chain. These OH groups have a natural affinity for inter. ‘Hence it is the chemical structure of cotton which is responsible .ww* -” , for its behavior under humid conditions, making it become limp and mussed ‘ (143. "f v.1 ‘Yarn structure is also important in this matter of crease-reSistance. anti}: . in a smooth, closely-woven fabric, finer yarns and tighter twists tend to effer“ - improve the crease-resistance of untreated fabric. Loose, irregular fabric BMW; censtruction, and thicker fabric is said to resist creasing to a greater extent than the smooth, thinner fabrics (23). Although cottons affinity for water has proven to be a disadvantage fl natural crease-resistance, even a greateraffinity would be advantageous unreal): treatment for added crease-resistance. The individual cotton fiber will absorb only about seven to twenty percent of its own weight in mm. A resin applied in an aqueous solution will go only where water can he made to go. Beyond the amount absorbed, the resin can only collect a the outside of the fiber, altering the hand and appearance of the mic (14). When the resin is applied to the outside of the fabric, it is hard and brittle. Therefore the method of application of the resin is extremely mortant. The same resin could be used on the same fabric and yet different results be obtained from one mill to another. The fabric in which most of the resin goes into the fiber and very little remains on the surface will not remotely resemble the fabric where only half of the r’esin pustrates the fiber and half remains on the surface of the fabric (28). The degree of polymerization in a given resin is an important factor iii-gaining the finish wanted. Generally a resin of a low degree of polymerization, involving molecules still quite small, will penetrate much pro-easily, and produce a finish which is soft or without much hand. Such arena. is invariably used for pre-shrinking, no-slip, and anti-crease mien“. A resin of medium or high degree of polymerization stays on the cute» and increases the stiffness. Such resins are used for surface effectsupermanent glazed chintzes, embossing, for stiff, boardy finishes, bonding, backing et cetera (21). -9- ‘ u ”Although the preceding ideas 'seem to be in accord with the beliefs Q81. majority of authors, one writer, in an article on the use of W“ resins for finishing published in 1947, makes this statement. ”a mesence of resin inside the fiber and the mechanical interactions ntortmtely cause fiber damage. Work is being carried out to avoid penetration of the resin into the fiber. Furthermore, he stated that to ”serve the fiber from direct contact with resins, the cloth may be first given a rubber treatment and afterward impregnated with ureaformaldehyde. the resulting anti-crease effect and the hand of the cloth are excellent (7). Urea-formaldehyde, at one time, used in the largest volume of all the mine, is a thermosetting resin. It is applied in a water soluble form and set into an insoluble form by application of heat. It is relatively unaffected by application of more heat (29). The fabric must be thoroughly prepared before applying the resin” The best fabric is one which has been desized, kier boiled, bleached and scoured, and is in a soft absorbent condition (29). Thus, the resin can penetrate mnly over the fabric. The fabric rmst also be free from alkaline or salts that might retard the curing of the resins. It is felt that the conventional methods for desizing, scouring, dyeing, and washing are usually adequate. The fabric should be dried to about five percent or ten percent moisture content (23). Some technologists recommend that the fabric be treated with caustic before resin impregnation. This suggestion nude on the premise that the caustic swells the fibers, further relaxing them and making them more absorbent to the resin (2). 3 The urea-formaldehyde resins are available in the form of pastes, 01. §1¢1“-’ syrups or powders (25). The resin is dissolved in warm water. -10- fag-0.1d forming catalyst is then dissolved in water at 1000?. and added, ”’11.” bath is made up to the rezuired volume at 90° to lOO°F. At this gout the solution should show a ph of about seven. Since the stability 9; the bath is limited, the catalyst should not be added until Just before the solution is used, and the solution should not be made up ahead of time and allowed to stand overnight. The concentration of resin depends on the type of material to be treated. and the finish which is desired. Since cotton fabrics do not absorb a large amount of resin ten percent to twenty percent of paste resin is used. The amount of catalyst is generally two to three percent of the ‘ eight of the paste used (23). Polymerization of. the resin on the fiber, making it insoluble, is accomplished by a short curing treatment at a high temperature--SOO°F (7). . Later writings tell of the use of nonacidic catalysts to speed the euring process. Mr. Gagliardi reports that it has been universally assumed that only acid substances can be used for good resin curing and alkaline anterials are either undesirable or ineffective. He presents considerable information showing that alkaline catalysts can be used successfully under conditions analogous to those used for normal acid catalysts. "With such .ojatalysts and resins, durable stabilization and creaseproofing may be obtained. The better alkalies which can be used as catalysts are quaternary agonium bases and carbonates, the best of these being sodium bicarbonate.” 331: alkaline catalysts were not used commercially because of lack of ”information on curing efficiency (8). a _‘ In‘the application of urea-formaldehyde resins to cotton for the , , . w. moss of crease-resistance, Ur. Gagliardi found that alkaline catalysts '2): e ~ £9390“ much higher crease-resistance than diammonium phosphate at the same ' ".gconcentration level. 3130 he found that Lith the alkaline catalyst 9;!peller amount of resin could be uscd to get the same result as a larger g’ount of resin and an acid catalyst (8). ‘é _ washing and neutralization store are usually considered essential to remove excess rosin frog t3> surface of the f bric. It is also a safeguard against odor development in storage (28). Several years r30 the st tenant was made that the TEL process increased the tensile strength of fabrics (35). However, in the case of cotton this theory was disproven. after some resin treatments, there was a loss of :tensile strength. This reduction of various strength properties has been ghown to be caused not by acid or heat degradation of the cellulose, but from.the decrease in fiber extensibility (9). If the resin was stripped from.the.fabric, the tensile strength returned to its original value (23). 'With this serious loss of tensile strength, only the very heavy cottons, that least of all need trinkle resistance, could be treated. Since that time the problem of tensile loss has been so mastered that the control of mmssing and wrinkling by application of resins has become almost commonplace to every mill and finisher and millions of yards of fabrics are.being processed yearly. Cottons now processed range from.heavy denims, shambray, gingham.and cords to very fine Sheers (6). it, ,In a recent extensive piece of research, variables in improving the grease resistance of cotton fabrics with synthetic resins were studied. ‘Ths results of this series of experiments show that the application of gifteners.with the resin finish tends to improve both crease recovery and ,ggrfistrength. The degree of improvement was found to vary widely with fibrin construction and with type of tearing force (18). -12- Ihsrmosetting resins have an.affinity for chlorine when the treated ctr... ‘10 is subjected to normal bleach. The fabric picks up and retains ‘ ntw '1' sglorine despite rinsing. when dri:d and heat-pres ed, the fabric becomes seriously degraded because of the presence of chlorine (29). If the fabric :. given a thorough anti-chloring treatment this tendering can be avoided (l9)- Mblamine formaldehyde, another thermosetting resin, may also be used on cotton fabric to render it crease-resistant. Only one half as much melamine is necessary since it is twice as effective on cotton. There is no' need for the acid catalyst rhich damages cellulosic fiber during the final thermic treatment (5). This resin also absorbs chlorine, but it does so in such an entirely different manner, that there is little or no subseduent loss in tensile strength even though the anti-chloring is omitted (19). . Despite the fact that melamine formaldehyde appears advantageous, the loo cost and simplicity in the handling of'ursshformaldehyde resins have insured them.a fairly permanent place in the textile finishing industry (24). '. Colors are altered to a small or large degree by resin treatment, and due allowances for such changes must be made by the dyer. Er. Shapiro, })r_, research director of Synthron, Inc., states that light-fastness and wash, fastness of sulfur and vat dyeings are practically unaffected, and that in . the case of direct dyes, wash-fastness is generally improved, but light- fsstness may be increased or decreased depending on the particular dye (23). II» Philip'w. Smith, of the James Hardcastle and Co. Ltd., claims that theme dyers and finishers who cater for trades in which.the TBL crease- :osisting process is used have been aware for many years of the disastrous Iliita, ._ A- 7 i 9“ I -;y¢“hb urea-formaldehyde resin finish on the light- -fastness of most M $515M; direct cotton blues. It is not easy to give satisfactory M“;;§ons why some blues should be satisfactory while other blues are .T§:iigyrreduced in their resistance to light fading. . A; ”.9 whole behavior of direct cotton dyes to crease-resisting is i yi;§?{g...," states MI. Smith. The light-fastness of some members, "$5 ly those in the yellow portion of the range, is actually increased, 3 A Lg that of others suffers a drop. Among those adversely affected are a ' $911311 proportion of the dyes which normally attain a high degree of o -. 1 thisstness. He cites an example of shades of gold produced from.a -' . .I {If . intaion of yellow and brown, each of which was satisfactory when.used H \ h:\ - s x ._4,7 ,and then subsequently treated for crease—resistance, the fastness {Q can be rated at little greater than zero, particularly with the . i .;=*‘ yellow shades. Exposure to sunlight produces a noticeable ng of shade in a matter of minutes. If the exposed and dulled T5"$s1 were kept in the dark for some time, the original or true shade “’ be restored. It is surprising that two dyes which are individually .M.' ."d»~ isfactory should show such peculiar characteristics when used 5. g . _ ‘1: _(27). -14- F L..... t “’7‘“ i. n .. . _ _ . . ‘ OJ. . t! _ .. C l. .. o 0‘.” ~ . , .. 5n , . .. 37...).Jl ALW‘M“ re!‘ 0. ‘_I c?...to...¢wl . o . . . _ 1 51.3.1. . O c. I .V . A. . ."s ._Q..Qi. ~ o. . ' t ._ ... . r . . .5 . : T a. .. . .. 4.... . a. . J. Q’J . v 0 ofl o o 0 cl . . . b O r.) .. o. .. n a A o.‘ 5A; ‘. ‘0 \. I “. o .. . r . .6 I ‘1. a . . . ’ I , g t .K . 9 . .. _ . e . . ‘o . ‘0 s 0.. .0 o d. . .0 . a \ n . .... o m. l. l . o x o .. nu c O C. ._ b Q 2 PHOCDURE mamas AND 0 r .1. L LIEI‘HOIB AND PROCEDURES f .' \ nib! this study, six groups of fabrics were purchased on.the retail Innkot. Each group contained four fabrics of similar or identical qtrupture and finish, differing only in color or design. .Appearing on it"IUIIOWing page is a summary of the fabrics being studied and pertinent purchase data concerning each. Samples of these fabrics appear in the appendix on pages S5 tolOO. Wtion of Fabrics for Test ing Testing was performed after each of the first five launderings and after the tenth, fifteenth, and twenty-fifth laundry. Fer each withdrawal at the testing intervals two specimens (one for warp and one for filling testing) were cut approximately fourteen inches square. Including the specimens for original testing, a total of eighteen specimens were. t tested an each of the twenty-four fabrics. Inch speciment was marked with indelible ink, either directly or by :Ieann‘ot a white fabric label sewed on the fabric, indicating the code number of the fabric, the direction of warp or filling (according to testing to be done) and the number of launderings to be performed. Thus, XIIBZt 5W would indicate that fabric KIIB2 was to be laundered five times and to be tested werpwise. .A line of machine stitching was placed one-eighth inch from.the edge at the fabric on the voiles to prevent the specimens from ravelling during the laundering process. lettings for dimensional stability measurements were made on the- .qpociuens to be laundered twenty-five times. Five lines, two and one-half -15- 2:93 .83 3:53 gm.“ “Hansen amt" $33.3 ANA Madonna oN. madness oN. Mdaaqen oN. 5333A 0N. $9.333 ON. maanacq 0N. meauaan oN. 933:3 2. ”Jenna mm. weaneda mm. 0309 .3 mm. canon .3 mm. 3353 no; 9:23 no; 2323 no; mosque no.3 .ueuneoa nH.H 83.5.," 3.3 1.3 .3 mm!" .. . .. 0‘ so“. 93 m3.“ $3 23 mo. mo . mo . mo. .3 mm .3 n .3 n .3 «mm .3 m .3 n .3 n .3 n .3 mam and mm .3 n .3 «mm .3“ \§ .aam .0: .e3 3: .e3 3: .en mm .en mm .e3 mm .wufitoedeuo .uomwoudeuo . a 373 «0.5 .nomuoodonu .. a 37038.6 .moMuoououo .oomnouaouo .oemuo-ueuo .eoflaoccsm auoedsuom .eoaeeecsm anoquuom nnoanonuum .asoaaauom oceanoueam anesdapom can «39.09 .63 3.3.09 eudeuebn onenmaobn onenmcepn oudamnopn “Mensa «Adana «henna chaos chaos chaos cane: noxeeuuoom uoaosmueom nexusnuoom noxueuuoom hdupeuno heupadno baseless heuplano edema; 5330 5&3... 5383 9:992 ME hectom Huang: HE hogom 4:09: ME nudism 633.2 MB Medium efiuob one» onset 0:8,, . A?” man .35 q an“ B" an man" man man «man SSH mm” NmHN wmu -17- .... [part were bested exactly on a warpwise yarn of the specimen. , five lines of basting were established on a fillingwise yarn. b. ' 2.1. ‘4‘ ”kings were made on both the warp and filling specimens, thus Wing ten points for measurment in the direction of the warp and I - I le ten points for filling measurement. .'- .. m .Iethods if.“ "a - ‘I r." The original fabrics were carefully analyzed in the laboratory the comparison of specification and initial performance characteristics. floss data were used as a basis for comparison with these same fabrics withdrawn at prescribed intervals of laundering. I m - 1A11 specimens were conditioned for at least four hours under standard auditions of 65% 15 relative humidity and temperature of 70°F.15 before _' . hing. tested. L... The following laboratory tests were performed on the original fabrics: 3:” number, twists per inch, yarn count, weight per square yard, thickness, .. mile strength and elongation, crease-resistance, and drapability. :q the yarn number was determined through the use of the Universal Yarn “boring Balance. Yarns from warp and filling were measured with a steel ' {gm-to exactly one yard in length. The yarn was then twisted into a . Miami: knot and hung on the wire hook in the weighing chamber in such '2' assaylthat it was suspended by a single yarn and did not touch any other .3 ’ {finger the- balance. With the beam clamp released, the large index pointer R 1}. fisumtsted until the beam was in balance. The index pointer then indicated.- I $ r:£ ‘Fl: _he correct yarn number (15). Ten determinations each for warp and filling 1: KW!» ‘ made and the average computed. As the yarns were reveled from the -18- of fabric, the resulting fringe was cut off after each three yarns id prevent stretching the yarn in handling. ‘£EE!!__per Inch , The number of t 13133 per inch of the warp and filling yarns wee " determined on the Suter Tris st Te star. The amount of twist was measured on a.ten inch length of yarn. Yarns were reveled fron.a cut edge of the fabric, one at a time and placed directly on the Twist Tester. The fringe from the edge of the fabric was cut off ofter each three yarns to insure no change in twist as the yern was removed. The yarn wrs fastened into the teat instrument with tension controlled so that a three gram deflection load leuld depress the yarn one-oifihth inch. The yarn wastflen completely Eitwisted and retwisted in the opposite direction until the same tension existed. The number of turns on the machine was recorded and divided by tuenty to arrive ot-the number of twists in one inch. Ten determinations each.were made fer warp and filling and the average computed. 1355 Count I'. TIarn count was determined following standards set up by the American society of Testing Methods (1). A micrometer was used for determining the number of yarns per inch in the warp and in the filling of the fabric. Five ‘EQEnte for the warp and five for the filling were taken at random on the fabric in such a manner that no two areas in which yarns were counted included the same yarns. The average number of warp yarns and filling yarns per inch were commuted using tlze arithmetical mean as a measurement 3f central tendency. ‘Yarn counts were taken on the original fabric and after t..- -. the fifth, fifteenth, and twenty-fifth laundering. “‘cS‘fiI— " -19- i. 1 .0 e ' l I. . .' T": 'Square Yard “ r9 3.1;“ 5. weight per square yard of each fabric was determined according to n I ' »,. .» gcedure outlined in i. S.T.L’. (1). Five two inch square specimens £33331} ' taken at random from each fabric, conditioned a minimum of four hours a; :ngeighed on a chainomatic balance. The weight per square yard was r #6" d (3?» ted using the following formula’: W . - F J! . fines-1.x 36" x weight of 20 squarelinches in grams 3‘“ 2. 28. 35 - ounces per square yard Y i'ght per square yard was determined on the original fabric, and again ~ ‘0 ‘5".1 ‘ ‘ ‘31: the fifth, fifteenth and t1. enty-five launderings. it}, agckness is was recorded in inches. Nine readings were taken on each specimen tithe average thickness computed. The thickness was determined on the innl fabric and again at the first, fifth, fifteenth and twenty-fifth iderings. “in. ; e strength and Elongation =" is. I "1. . -‘ “k ‘ .33}? "3-Specimens for this test were prepared and the test performed according :3} ills reveled strip method outlined in the testing procedure set up by '3 "1!. ‘1). A Scott Tensile Testing machine was used to determine :"strength and elongation. Five determinations each were taken ' ' both vet and dry warp and filling and the average for each was calculatei . V';- ‘4 n ’3‘! were. carried out on the original fabric and at withdrawal following ' 11 - finch... w3, fifteenth, and twenty-fifth laundering. -2o- 1 « ; 'of the fabric or its drapability was measured on an ‘drspemeter. This apparatus had been set up in the laboratory "Learner study similar to this one (12). It was patterned after 3 iwbhlimloped by John H. Skinkle and Arther J. Korean at the "'"-'"3'_' Emile Institute (26). The drapemeter consisted of two ring . which supported a horizontal 'rod. On this rod was placed a series .3 - two and one-half inch wide paper clamps. Another ring stand with " he used to hold a millimeter ruler. This ruler was fixed in such ftion that it was exactly one hundred millimeters below the Jaws of m clamps .333 33k m specimens for the test were cut 100 mm. by 250 mm“ with the 333 ‘-»‘- dilsnsion parallel to the set of yarns being evaluated. Three ' ' «M were prepared for the warp and three for the filling. . ‘3 ‘5‘?» sample was mounted for measuring by folding the specimen 1903‘“:- 3'33 '_ ”such a way thatthe face of the fabric was on- the cones: side.- m suspended from the horizontal rod, was then attached one Mar. .. '~.33-¢I.'- 313‘" ”.5- MW for two minutes. At the end of this time, the all” moved up to the concave side of the material with one end of the ram touching one edge of the fabric. The chord-lengthwhs'éthen M " directly from the ruler. Since the sample was 100 7m “wide .. 3m also a percentage of the width. " Three determinations? were as warp and three on the filling. Measurements were me ‘01: th 3 :me and following the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, Wk; em twenty-fifth laundering. .3 . 3 33 33 ‘u‘.| ' ' . 3 - .' ,5." ‘- 3 ‘5". - - -21- . .3. . . 3 r 1. 3 missing and of the fabric specimen. The fabric was allowed-the. '~ 3;; - ”@1111“!!! determined. The stiffness of the fabric as a whole was EP‘. mounted by'the calculation of the geometric mean of the warp and u- 1mm averages (square root of the warp value times the filling value). ' geese-Resistance ' The crease-resistance or the ability of the fabric to recover from weaning, was determined on the Monsanto Wrinkle Recovery Tester (13). live warp and five filling test Specimens were cut 1, 5cm. by 4cm. Each test specimen was conditioned for a minimum of four hours and then placed when the metal leaves of the specimen holder with one end flush With the longer metal strip. The exposed end of the specimen was then turned hack so that the cut edge fell on a line marked on the shorter thin metal drip. tin The specimen holder was then placed in a plastic press and laid on acflat surface with the one inch square platform of the press upward. A weight of one and one-half pounds was placed on the platform for a period 6! five minutes. At the end of the creasing period, the weight was taken off; the specimen holder/giioved from the press, and mounted on the Monsanto Winkle Recovery Tester. The fabric specimen was allowed to recover for the minutes. During the recovery period the specimen was adjusted from the to time so that the protruding part of the material was aligned? with m. vertical guide line on the back panel of the instrument. At the end ct therecovery period the specimen was again aligned and the angle or . W (measured in degrees) was read directly from the calibrated scale on the movable disk. The larger. of the angle, the greater was the crease- troliltance of the fabric. —-w vv‘? h.’ f . ”cedars f“; ,_ mass were laundered in a West inghouse Laundromat, model L5. :. ifii’fabrics were put into the washer, hot water was flushed through , .- inc-to insure a maximum temperature. The load control was set . t - 7‘ ~"', and a sufficient number of specimens were laundered each time _ I cl «4- at the upper limit for the small load, using the "weigh-a-door" . ' The hot water was run into the mchine (9 gallons at 140°1'.) and o O h cup of Tide was added. The fabric specimens were then put into firm ends and, with the control set to the r181“; on "110*": - :- '9" _I o. .. \g 1;”? to run through a complete washing cycle. The cycle included 19 " ‘ e K‘ e. a g. agitation in the suds, one spray rinse, and two deep water rinses. ”3;". end of the cycle the load was spun dry. The fabrics were in the -‘l 3 45 minutes at each laundering. When removed from the Laundrolnt, (,3 i « 5;}fehric specimens were smoothed out by hand and wrapped in Turkish. C’ ; . I. After standing from one to four hours they were ironed until dry ’ ,. 1{.‘thowarplvise direct ion, only with a General Electric iron with the ; control set on ”cotton". ' _ f. 3.3:? ~After the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, tenth, fifteenth, and ‘ ' f" ofifth laundering, the specially marked specimens to be measured for”. ‘ V L}, tonal stability were laid flat on a table. leasurements were taken ‘ o X '- .-‘ v; t. I .::,'.:: less than two hours and not more than twelve hours after ironing. ;’ =1. . '3'“ 2“ steel tape, the measurements were made to the nearest one sixteenth . z. {12. a ft Ix. _| e v‘» ~ m. Dimensional change was calculated as percentage of the 01‘! 3m 15.! a; ~fb . ' I‘a ' “t. \4 .1 - . ‘o r“ In 23. I . L‘.:.I‘1." - t i" .1 . I “I .- N - V .15.... . - V ; v -- d. t l - 0" a 01.: at “V- 'a - '0". ‘V _ 9:1“ imen eight inches by two and one-half inches was cut from each ‘ 'and stapled into a Fade-ometer test mask in such a manner that the V’ do of the fabric would be exposed to the light. Portions of the -. were exposed to light in the fade-ometer for specified lengths 9' - according to the procedure outlined in Commercial Standards 5533.994 130)- ' a! -2? ’ g - ‘ 'f'u- - I e. - ‘V'L.’ ‘ ‘l ’ *. N "71 5 ' ' r . x “ . ' f I I.) ‘a f v I ' " 'g n U a - ‘ ~ ‘ . _A ‘- _‘ ~2 ‘ “' ' ‘ f . e 3. [’4 :\ tests at the designated laundering intervals were .on each fabric: C - laundering Intervals l 2 3 4 5 10 15 3; cunt x x x ' per Sq. Yard x x x . . .. {-9 _ A 1"”??? .1: 688 x x x x Q I « file Strength fig» Elongation x X I K‘s- .0 if fig-g") 15.11117? :2 x x x x x x x a? ,..-.;;m is Recovery x x x x z x x x I Stability 2; x x x x x x x z: I - I, 1 1- .U - . _ e ' .g. - UT .'. . ' - ‘ t? 51; -259 ‘ %." ‘- . : - .. 1 ‘. V I ‘. .z‘a: ‘1.v ' .o;.‘.|’ O - u a . Y _‘.A‘. i. .. A..... .... is a "...-u.. ... . . .g .. . . . 1.... ... . .. . . . . \ . o .A ’. .\4.¢a . a. ..u v.4. ...!” WNW.-. (a... .. .«wav...\$.w . . . ._ i V...» . _. . . .. . . .. J. . n .. u. .. . A. . fi-‘fl . o ......l m..~.” . «Wu... Ni'ua . . :1... ”W 4......mA.‘d ..(k. . ..\ C _ t ._ . . .... . b r . ......q .. VMA 0 Q.— q . . r .. . ..... ”to . .u . .h. Ad .. _ .. . . .2. . . A . l .u . . q . _. .19 V .... . . _. . v .9 . .9 . . . . . .. . - . e A I ..U 9 A ‘ n v .. . o I m . O . . .. . . n ,. . I. u v. I 50 ...! l.’ tar DEEP-LETJTIC‘N OF RESULTS In this section, the performance of each group of fabrics will be considered. An analysis of the date till he made for each of the laboratory tests. In this 1’ rst phase of the analysis, the fabrics 'iithin.a given group will be compared on the basis of their original qpecifications and their performance throughout the twenty-five launderings. The second part of the analysis will include a comparison of the six groups of fabrics in the essential differences in their Specifications as $811 as the performance data of the fabrics in respect to individual tests. Whenever possible, an attempt will be made to explain the reasons for variations in their initial fabric characteristics, and differences in performance. 'Voiles ‘3grgase-resistance Of these four voiles, the’two printed fabrics were purchased tron Welek's in St. Louis, and the two plain fabrics were purchased "on the local market. The latter fabrics are known to be Dumari products. All feur pieces were sold as crease-resistant treated. 0n the original f}§hrics, the angle of recovery, as determined on the Mbnsanto wrinkle 3.999791? Tester, varied from 116° to 134°, averaging approximately 126°. Tsixteen 100° angle is considered commercially acceptable (16), these fabrics mould be, without question, considered satisfactorily crease-resistant. 'ghe.engleof recovery for silk and wool in its natural state is 120° (4). agalastndyentitled “The Permanence of 'Everglaze' Finish and.Design on Eggttonrggbsics huring Laundry", the author, Sister flary'Philip largraff, 32§?§§49r°dxth° fabrics tested to have exceptionally good crease-resistance ..J' - *‘fljjln; e of recovery was 120° or more, making the treated fabric ' '~ .1“ to silk and wool in this characteristic (11). On the basis n' 171%. a consideration, all of the voiles in this group had exceptionally {grease-resistance, and maintain that quality of wrinkle recovery ' the twenty-five launderings. At the end of the laundering slurs the angle of recovery varied from 114° to 132° , averaging .- O \ 1:389: 124°, only slightly less than their original value. All -. -resistance values are shown graphically on the following page. UThe plain voiles showed not only a higher degree of recovery in the testing but maintained a higher degree of crease-resistance than if?» printed. voiles throughout laundering. At the tenth and fifteenth ‘I u" i _ : interval, the plain voiles showed a higher angle of recovery { "EN-4 '3 - Arecorded for the original fabrics. ' ‘ if ' if. " élthough one plain voile differed from the other in type of filling it 3;. m filling yarn count, the two fabrics were similar in crease- }gtanoe This might indicate that the finish applied to the fabrics fi'u - -. , .. pro influence on their performance than the yarn structure and count. . . t... ' ; I ' . - - | a; . ' 7“ ' ' o. ‘ ~ it: “ tn. stabilit In the warp direction the maximnn shrinkage was .~ . 21'. 'v-VI': Two-thirds of the total shrinkage occurred in the first five _ ,2: . s, with the greatest change occurring in the first laundering. so, the plain voiles shrank only 1.25% throughout the hindering _ ' 3 again showing the greatest dimensional change taking plnce in :' :2. It! launderings. The printed voiles proved to have poor stability ‘ 5”. . " ‘ ”a . g . ~ --‘v erings. Actually, maximum shrinkage had been reached at the third "— It 3'?— interval. _. , j. u, . ”max ‘28. 7 - l S . mu...oUlNN£°HU Iii“ MrtlflikaN‘Hnuii v‘f.‘ I‘Flhll‘ Angle of recovery in degrees LATE I EFFECT OF LAUNDWRIWG 0N GREASE RESTSTA- OIL. . 4 15 Number of Launderings ' - - p-a U ‘1 t J r -.g __ .., .L r,-.;1 ‘...'..‘-.L. a I] '1’" "‘/. |.J "\ ..-. -.’ '1 i w *J‘b 1ft. INA in . «4 +3.1 1 1 J a, . a H. Cr \ .1 _i .. 7. ..u 7. or n... - ~, 1- J. J ;C A“ tr.. ‘-L- . 1'; .1 \ (_. ,-, .. Lnkr J. v}. n'! ‘- '1 lug LL.-l ’ I , J. .v~« f- 1 I Av~' .J. .3 ii“! r. . ~ '~-t1 «s- (,’L\- ....A-.. P1 \ _/ L m- “...;- ' T -9 ’1 -V‘( -A.L\1_-J.—- .‘l. 1 pe“ k! M . r‘. v - ' L "' 1 '- ...; IA .. __-l-- u-. u.. ‘41.- 4._ .4L -U. r”' . \c ‘4 __.--.fi ..‘11 ch - fiAU. v i J. Lab :1. . n U‘J-n- fiL—— in; __.‘_v-- _ .1. 'ILLHLtL... q ..L‘ - V2 ... - L U (.2" i. ‘ i- \ O 1 r}: 'i __--» .',~sA\-) 4‘ .5. 1 -i'_. 4.. I ‘\!"‘ "I UU‘- .5 l - , ..L ' LI -. «3r. it. ~“-. \ .J—‘L. ‘(3 I‘\_, "J I ll ~L; l \.3_ \.O .5 .LL 1‘ " I-. r1 ‘ - ,. .I . -. u $.11 L-Aa. L. (w L.) V ... , 1 -3’~.A- ii” 1:“? 3"} "' O n. . . ..‘h "s D d- v‘-~V‘v .1. var o .. o '\ 1 1‘ .t ,. [g -. l-LLI.‘ V t1¢;r .7. 3 L. t“ I" I- U v; V“ ”I " ., l t ‘ ¢ - t1. . Ol' "+‘.h ‘. ° 'n :1, AA (V O “'1.“ V0 , m Y‘C\.". -... b~ 1”. Drapability value ininillimeterc PLATE VlI EFFECT OF LAeNDLRING ON DWLEABILITY VOILES ... (‘0 U" 0 l 2 5 4 5 10 15 Number of Launderinss POWDER PUFF fiUSLINS 7O 65 60 55 5O 45 4O 35 0 1 2 3 4 5 10 15 M c: Number of Leunderings ..Q n. ‘4'. ,.1- ~lw.-1-r ..- ' ~ 7.4. . l . 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Angle of recoveny in degrees PLATE III EFFECT OF LAUND‘RING ON CR3 4 RESISTANCE GINGHAMS o... .... 00.. . . o 9 090 00- 105 100 Number of Launderings 105 100 l 2 3 4 5 10 15 5 Number of Launderings C 7 ..V ' Q -r ' H, w ,1 ‘ -I .15 u‘ 7 r « ~ g I. -AM ,. . . , 3‘ J. O - x « - w ya . V I —-r I ..-- 7 -\ - V 1 1‘ g '3 _ ___ I, .. . 3 1 fl - N ‘ . . xa — ‘ . , - ~ _ -" ~. ’ A 01‘ . . , ._' 0 -~ ‘J - I ‘ I I; . x‘ r. . . 7 _ ‘ . o a I . .. I. ... . fi . ‘ .I I .. t . I O _- o- _ ..\ I - I 1 ‘ I I ‘ -l 3 \v . ‘3 '.\ ‘ l" ‘, - I I . .— - - v '9 A - .. fl -_ . f - — . A; \ x q . . / ... ‘ - .1 - v 'I ... I , ‘ ‘ — U —‘ x. 7 ' O . . , I-’ o ‘4 --- I U I- ~ .t‘ " ,7 I __ - ._ ‘ 0 j l V t. ‘V I , . .4 , I ‘ i .-\ - J- _ v I- A , ,g ' . . 7 , _. _ , ~ n l ... W C >7 v x . . .I I I, u (77 v ‘ V I l _‘ _ , I -_ . - A u, 1 l P u I j ,"n _. “-1 J _ - 1 fl -. ‘ x W ~ 7 A —, - _ A.. I ‘ p. 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L LI_I ‘ _ | L ,.p I l .\ -‘ I ‘- "I _‘fl 7 ‘ I ,‘.‘. .L w a- I 1 . . a I I I , a ' 7 ' fi ’ ¢ VTTI LET7 UYETTIT ZCT OF L1 v- V‘- ‘0 FN‘ A-. o -' v' . 31.1.. ‘IV ‘0 I GI . . . . Q o. .. . a S __J erinv 10 nber of Laund v NU O 1 2 3 4 5 5O 5 b .b .4 2325:? 5 2:3 bfiflafla 55 30 Number of Launderings L , - .‘ 1"!“ .fi _I _4 r - _‘_ -A k“ \I . v o -- I ~ . I - - . q - . u . - . r -! ‘I - V v _,_ I . -.. I-‘ » ‘ I» ‘ ‘ y :- "" . I . . __ .1. h‘v > - ‘ ‘ ’ ‘1 . Q I n - — - . ~ ~—‘— _ u ’- * ° I (‘ I. _ a r v v H - .. I. . K ,. p -. - -— - . * a — V‘ “----..— _ - . r I . . ‘ ~ . ~ I r A 1 . - n I. " v ' ‘_, . .I \- _~. - , I U ...k— ‘— . - . I _~_. _ I’ U I 'U _ ... _ I _ I I . . ..— I .7 .3 . r_ ~ N V. . . . . ,~ | I -- - _A I - ..4 ~ 0 I - - - - ... 5". - I. v , . _/ - r k , .- ~ - ‘ ‘ : I I o ' I > -\ u I < u - ~ . 1. . -1 ‘ '“xl’ ' ' — ' ‘ - ; ” ) ’ _ ’ .4 n . I ' ' ‘ g - w _' .- - q ‘ .. I I 5 _ - .k L I ._ L - I a I I -- \-- I.-. - ‘J - .— k .. u I. I . -. q . 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Angle of recovery in degrees PLATF- IV EFFECT 3F LAUV QR NG 3N CFdASE RESISTAKCE ClinfLfiFu’u’S 90 ....... 85 80 75 7O 65 .‘I.H .y:;?' 0 l 2 5 4 5 10 15 25 Number of Leunderings .- ‘. h)” a»: e . , , ‘ 7" . A... ..KJ; [ x.’ ‘ 4 ,,A. . v-D— ,, w L-"" h "" ‘- I- , 'U— |“ "-.b '- --‘ h » V.J ’ -. ‘l- . ‘t‘l‘h _1 l)“ 1 — . . . u . A ‘ ‘ ». u ' j '1 .L';n' . —. ~ + - ‘ 1 . H ’ L \__ \J __ J ...- u «.4 .. 7 — O I ... - - __ - V ‘ ... 54 ...-~- -I *-’ ‘_ - ._ - \.l .A‘ d _‘u ~ .— ._.- 4/ . _ -- - L; - o q < - ‘ - ~ - e ‘ e ' 0 I" ‘ "N . 1 ’0 f”"' ' - A“ ’l H ‘ 'D I ‘ v I -‘\ .‘ .h-w ‘_ '_'_ ‘Qfl‘ _ 4* J. . H _ - w -VU . a J ‘4 J .Lx—~‘ -» .‘Lk’ J- vk - U‘ —- ~— ‘ o ‘ . 1 1 u ‘ . ‘ a . ‘ ‘ ' ‘ ’ ' - ,-. ' ‘ “ “ ' I ‘ ‘ . . - (‘ ‘ . . . - , .' “3. 1 - *A ....r— '- - A- -... ‘—< - V ‘— \— _ .. a- ——~J. -_-.—L ‘ .V. I -A ‘._4 .5- ~ ~ . ‘ V ‘ | I o I 7-. ". - . "n u 1 *4 - ' ~ < .-., .1. ~ . _ . J_ _ - _‘ _ -- *5; 4.- I“... ‘v .. » ....‘ .. _... .....‘ O I h A; u -1. ...-‘MJ, --. x .L '. .UJ A . 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"UJ_ I" n~'-¢v ‘ '1 " b: "a: "‘ '1 ~"I "A‘ I“ .fi " ‘fi ‘ fl. '1 . 'n 1‘ ()‘- ‘n“ at - ‘1‘ “fl' I m U ' . _;_d_. h, ...g. L. \_ _ ..hu - .v 1‘. J U) . ---x. - -- I #1.. u. v-9 .L --VCJ. d——‘~./-.. Iv to g , . . . I ._ . . . . .. .. ‘ , J . . , ‘1 . fi fl 4.. , . _ V‘fl ‘ .. . v-s.\ , x < .I .L' JV.» . 4... .b I . -r‘ .. ~_, ‘_ x4 U4. IA; v0 UL;../ K ..~.'_§:- .M- I€:_.L\4..._ ....-- ' .J U... L-;U .L‘ W. :'*.: .I ~ '7', ‘fi -. _,,.: ‘- -1.._, .- - . CL" 3: Tm34_2 t“; .'uu.. _: ~DVNAL, 030 79- ;.;~.thcu Vi¢Mps icxu wz.; _ fig 5 ¥‘ _ ‘ .1 1 .h ‘ ~ " - 1 - ‘ 1 3‘ ," .- J I -. VJ— .' ..-" J- - a -- .' °- ' " , . 1 . L . . I! 5 I .4 v I: Y~ L . .. . f} .g . ‘ Q. j ." __ U_J_ _‘_ I“- ' b ... ___ . . u. .. -..Lan.’ ..‘LU. -___ JL-k-‘L;J“-' q. . A- 1- J -KAU.L‘—‘A Vb...‘.~J .Lil 5.4. l A.-- a o - A- - -"‘ ‘ ‘ ~~ , r r‘ A - ,‘J. . — ' J.‘ H . ’1 1 ' ' ' , ’ . ‘ b 11- y. . ‘ ’ . I " It I“ ‘ -\ 'I _—\ 1 cf; - - .‘ ' f _L ~ C _ vl ‘_ J . 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V~A ..~ " v _, - ‘ . . . ~ - an . .e - 4 e , - . . ..- o -_ A e . -. " o " '1 .1. . .--__.._ L. I \ ,‘ , , ‘ - e _ . ‘4‘ V _ . .4 , . . t ,x _, .. ‘4 ‘ ‘ o . .1 .. |- ,7 v...- . r I . ‘ O 1 r . .. .‘ «3 ~, §’ “\. V ' '7 - . N ’ — v ‘ O ‘ - -\ ‘ .— . -. 1 _. ’ ..— L - ,~ , , e - _ _‘ \/ ‘ I C U -- ‘nr/ ..53 v \v U _l... N’ -» , u . .-, (. ‘-‘ __ \J vyx: r1” ' 1,7 ‘-‘ J L). .- _. . _ U A Drapebllity value 1n millimeters PLATE IX EFFECT OF LAUNDERING ON DRAPABILITY SEERSUCKERS Vumber of Launderings MOIEES 013345 10 1:: U Number of Launderings 4—44) - __ k .‘ a he I ~ A. — - .v q , uAr" -- .‘ fl '_‘ _. I ¥a rw‘ ' -_ . ... .. V e_|_ f 'V '1 I ., . .. 2 . " .. C I H - .4. f5 .1... .. - - I" I l ‘ “_ _‘ J -L .1 , V. F.“ ‘ .3- ‘ ., , f‘ ". I). g, I - .. L ml -‘ I. .' .. .5 ‘ ‘ “~' _‘ 7 . ...”. ~ ‘ {. _ ‘7 - «.A ‘ a £- r; {1 I» q A n. - -5 o I \_ e. a - . I" v \_ l \ v I V I O ' 'r - ‘- \ 2 U - -\ L _ ~ 0 _- ‘ 1 N . , l . -V- ,‘_ \ J \v - ~ . . _f . q A __y . 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" 1;, + ‘ ' 1 ‘ n 1'14 ‘ ‘ 7‘ "' W l ‘ ‘» v "' W '3' ‘ : L' ’5 . . \(‘ .— 7O ‘ 3 C‘ y‘. J" '7‘ -/ \‘ L— V ““ r- .“ 3"“ A V —‘ v vwv , I A-_- k. l V: Al - a-~-L ... d- ‘J ‘ 'A V 0‘ L4 Jan- ‘./‘ .‘J J L ‘N L'A- for many years. The nirticular aingna S in this study maintain the character of this well—known fabric in annearance and hand, but have had functional qualities inconSWicuously added to them; narely, the ability to resist and shed wrinkles as well as creater stability. Cn the other hand, the moire fabrics have been given an "anoearance" finish as well as a "functional” finish. The user of these fabrics is imnediately aware of the fact that sne is handling a new and different textile nroduct. The .surface design places definite limitations on the use of the fabric. The finish on these fabrics is obvious as it creates a surface effect which alters texture and annearance. The usual character of cotton fabrics is so altcred that they present added problems in clothing construction. Because they resist shaoiny, such processes as pressing, easing, and gathering would be more difficult on them than on treated fabrics which remain unchanged in apnearance, texture, and handle, as illustrated by the ginghams in this study. -52- I - I '1" __-- U 4» . -_ L‘ A- v .A <‘ \L _. .‘V '-.>. F I (V , v‘. a r, _a 4.— J (‘3 :5, C' ' .1.- (,2 f ‘7‘”, .1. ‘o—hh—v’ | J l. ._ _r‘ . — L. .i - -V #— ‘ U r j " L- .. L. ,- . I >’ - ' '0 ,—. \— \4. , - ...— , .- x, I ‘ ... C o a - .. . .....V . -u ”1 ab . q x ‘. .4.“ v a - ‘1 ‘ w .. a I - .kt \ . .. v ‘ n q . _A. n I No ‘ \ ~5— - ‘. a -- _ - L'aA» . U . - O 3 I ‘. I-' ' '\ _h‘- . -‘- LV 1 a .. A L, _. A. __-‘-.-V . ,_ g l ... .. . v ,. - _ A, '- _"I V v‘ o ‘L . t «1 u \‘ . .. r - \A. ‘_-A. 4‘ Fl“ “I a— . . . '- . .A. \J, 10-. \~ _'_" l;_1_ . -... U '1 ..c 1],, .-¢-v~v ["I "'3- ., . ~I . r)- . 1‘,)‘ -- ..v ‘ . v i C ,_ ,._ a l , ... _, 4-.1 ‘\ q . _N-:k(. 0“ 1.». ‘ rhfl. i U ~Ju.fi . 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