A “WEAR" sway as we camsmasasrmr mm: FAamcs. swumnm WOOL “$599.35 ‘99:“ fixer fiegsee t2? 3%“. A; WCH’SA‘»: S?&?E CGLLEfiE m. t '- _ Hakim Limes". Raaasbs’i‘é‘am 3-5953 (i, I‘ 4y .I I I I' I . g \ I a V I '9, . ‘ , II . . . ,- . ‘ I 3. . -. If! qlqu"II .I \ ‘. *v II {‘3 I. . o I ‘ - . .II .I. -- . » . I - .. ‘I ‘ ‘ q . v -" . 2 ‘. . 4 .' . I . . _ . r t; ‘K Thisistocertifgt'hatthe thesis entitled A "Wear” Study of Two Crease-Resistant Treated Fabrics Simulating Wool presented by Helen Usuch Runabottom has been accepted towards fulfillment of the requirements for MA. degree in Textiles & Clothing ajor professor Date_nay 15, 1953 . 1' ._ "T‘" HP} ,5 ”." . s ' f," fikfifi'fiafifi‘fifi " “as _ 41'qu x.,,.;,.~’~.,y “We; ' v 1.: r,4_!5-P?".£v" '.-~.>'~-::;~;&x « - ' ' - I is M __-_-=A-|-‘h‘-L‘— LL ' A "WEAR" STUDY OF TWO GREASE-RESISTANT TRT'TE EARRICS SIMULATING WOOL By Helen Osuch Ransbottom M A THESIS Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan State College of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of thTER OF‘ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts May 1953 THEE‘Q \’- p. x - 6“ \ Q. 5. 1" ACKNOsLEDGEKEQTS The writer wishes to express her sincere gratitude to the following people: miss Hazel B. Strahan, Head, Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts, Michigan State College, for her guidance in planning and carrying out this project. Miss Sarah Brier, instructor in research, for her assistance in the testing laboratory. The nine graduate students in the School of Home Economics who were cooperators in this study. Jack A. Ransbottom and Kr. and firs. E. A. Ransbottom, whose understanding and assistance permitted completion of this thesis. I. II. III. IV. TABLE OF C OEJTEEITS IIITRODU'CT IOIJ o o o o o o o o o 0 REVIEW OF LITERATURE . . . . . . A. B. C. Organization of the Study Construction of Garments Test Kethods . . . . . . . Yarn Number . . . . . . . Twists per Inch . . . . . Yarn Count . . . . . . . height per Square Yard . Thickness . . . . . . . . Dimensional Stability . . Tensile Strength and Elongation Wrinkle Recovery . . . . Drapability . . . . . . . . . Resistance to Abrasion . Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning INTERPRETATION OF RESUITS . . . A. B. Analysis of Original Fabrics Initial Specifications . Performance Characteristics Analysis of Dry Cleaned Fabrics 11 ll 14 15 15 16 l7 l7 17 18 18 19 19 20 20 22 22 22 23 27 Page C. Comparison of Original, Dry Cleaned Only, and horn Fabrics 55 D. Analysis of horn Garments . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . 38 E. Subjective Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 V. COKCLLSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 VI. SUEgAiY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 VII. LITERATURE CITED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 VIII. APPEIIDE I O O I O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 59 Plates I. II. III. V. VI. VIII. X. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. 'XV. Tables I. II. PLATES AIID TABLES DRESS FABRICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WIDTH AED LINEAR HEASURELEETS OF GARLHFTS . . . . . . . . . CUIIILG CHART FUR SLEEVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CUTTING CHART FJR BLCUSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CUTTIWG CHART FOR SKIR *RQHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CUTTING CHART FDR SKIRT BACK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DRESS OF SUITING FABRIC BEFORE hEAR AND DRY CLEAHIN . . . DRESS OF THE SUITIIIG FAB IC AFTER JEAR AND DRY CLEANING . . TYPES OF BUTTONHOLES USED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FFE CT OF YEAR AND DRY CLEANING ON BUTTE IHOIJ d3 OF THE SUIT- I'IG GARIIJJJITS o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o :1Uj EFFECT CF "EAR.AFD DRY CLELAHIHG O'N BUTTJHHOLES OF THE GABAR- DIIE GAIIi311fi‘S o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o OVERCAST, SHAH TAPED, AHD FIFKED AHD STITCHED ARHSCYZS OF THE GABPfiiDINE DRE SSE S SHJa. III.G F-‘F '.3CT OF ~CHAIR AI'D IDiY CLZLAII- I11 LI 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 0 . GABARDIH‘ FABRIC DDTE.IU.ATIJF AT UNDER ARH.AT T33 IFATIJN 0F Fifi}? AITD A);\Y CIJLIHIIB.G o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o FRAYAGE :GAR@ MI OF THE SUITIFG AT TEHHINATIUN O HEAR [LAID DRY CLTJLIIILG o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o SPECIFICATIOI: AL‘SIJ LF RIG HAL FABRICS . . . . . . . . PILRFS‘. -HL: CE I‘LI'AXL‘YS IS CF Q}: IX: 1-2;} L FA... 13.? Ics o o o o o o o o o Page 42 71 72 73 74 75 76 80 81 82 85 84 85 86 87 25 26 Tables Page III. SPECIIFICAT I-JNS CF DRY GLITAEEED 'A‘ABRIC . . . . . . . . . . . 29 IV. FABRIC PFIFU. .ZAI: CE III DRY CL? ANIIIG . . . . . . . . . . . 31 V. COMPARISON OF SPECIFICAT IOI S ‘JF ORIGIFAL, DRY CIEL“? .3D LIIILY, AIID -..OLiII AIII.‘ DHY CLEAIED FABRICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 VI. CO: 33.-..ISJII L‘F P....FU.i"” CF. OF ORIGII AL DRY CLIAII 1D UI LY, IETD VUQILIN AIID JRY CLILII’LI‘IE FAB? L108 0 o o o o o o o o o o o 0 60 VIII. FABRIC SPLCIFICATIUI‘IS AT SPLC IFIHD AREAS OF LORI GLUTIII-IITS 65 IX . AVF LAAGI. IiCLII TAGF. DII. 31S ILIIIAL CIIAI—TGF. TIIRUUGHL'UT FEAR AIID DRY C v‘ ‘1“ ‘11! G IKI FAG}: DPLE'J . O C C I O O O O O O O O O O 64 X. .AVTBAGB PER C BICT DII If ICIIAL CH. .1?GB IIII ”I UITIIJ‘G DRESSES AT SPECIE'IL D AI‘IF .1718 o o o o o o I o o o o o o o o o o o o o 65 XI. AVERAGE PL'R CBIII‘ DIIEIJSIOFAL Clfl‘II‘IGB III THE GABARD TLE DRESSES ATSPBCIFIEDAREAS.................... 66 XII. TBI‘ISILE STRDICTH AIID ELOIIGATICII OF EACH IIORI‘I GAE":EIII‘ . . . 67 XIII. TEI'SILF. ST FJF'LGTH AIID ELOIIGATI'JII AT SPEC IFIED AREAS OF HORN GAR.T|_I ~ A‘IITS . C O O O . I O O C O 0 O O O O O O C O C O O O . 68 XIV. I'IRIIII’CIE. BC"VE1 imY ’ ’ D LILAPABILITY VALUES OF EACH VICRI‘I GAR- DENT o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 69 XV. IRIIIKM RECOVERY AH DFAFABILITY VALUES AT SFBCIF 113D AREAS OFIS'ORNGASQIEIITSocoococo000000000000. 7O INTRODUCT ION I . INTRO DU CT ICN Extensive technological changesin the textile industry during file post war period haveznade available to the consumer rayon apparel fabrics which in appearance value, versatility, performance, and price are highly competitive with wool. Consumer acceptance of these new fabrics has re- sulted in increased rayon production so that in 1950 it was three and one half times as great as the 1939 pre-war output. Production records for the rayon industry also show that with file exception of 1949 there have been an unbroken series of year-to-year increases since 1938(1XProduction in 1953 is estimated to reach 1,129 million pounds of:rayon and 573 million pounds of acetate (22). Fabrics chosen for this study were among the first crease resistant rayons manufactured for both menfls and women's wear and were considered trial fabrics. Producers have since then made improvements in yarn and weave structures as well as in crush resistant finishes and their applica- tion. Since 1950 there have been pure synthetics placed on the market such as orlon, acrilan, dynel, nylon and dacron which are competing with rayon and acetate for end uses in which traditionally wool was used. These new synthetics are chiefly blended with wool and.manufacturers claim they imr part to'wool special improved qualities such.as launderability, improved resistance to abrasion, etc. However, research and development costs of these new synthetics have not yet been written off. Generally a fabric of fifty parrzent synthetic and fifty per cent wool costs as much as an all wool fabric. Rayon and acetate currently cost forty-one and forty- two cents per pound respectively for staple and seventy-three cents for filament. In contrast, the synthetics mentioned above range in price from $1.40 to $31.90 per pound for staple. They are at least three and one-third times as expensive as rayon and acetate. In the filament form nylon ranges in price frcm $32.25 to $6.00 per pound while orlon is $3.75 and dacron $5.00 per pound. Assuming that there is a mass market for fabrics that give satisfactory performance at lower price, rayon has not lost its competitive place in apparel fabrics for men's and women‘s gar- ments which resemble and serve tie same purpose as wool. (22) With the vast increases and extensive changes in production, intelli- gent consumer selection has become more difficult because little research has been done as to the ultimate serviceability and satisfactcry perform- ance during use of these new fabrics. In the studies Which have been carried out, laboratory tests were used as predictive evidence of inherent serviceability of fabrics for their intended use. Is this testing indica- tive of actual performance? Only by following laboratory testing with wear studies on identical fabrics can a valid answer be made. However, even less of this latter type of experimentation has been cbne. It is the pur- pose of this study to contribute to the meager data now available. Specifically, this study was designed to evaluate the reliability of the laboratory data as predictive of performame for two specific groups of fabrics made into garments which were given normal use and care . 0f necessity, the number of fabrics was limited. Specific objectives were: A. To compare the serviceability under conditions of normal use and care of a group of rayon dresses of twill weave -2- with another group of plain weave,crease resistant, rayon fabrics. 1. To compare and evaluate initial specifications. 2. To correlate performance predicted on basis of labcratory test results with data on comparable sampling from garments subjected to actual wear. 3. To compare degree of wnar from specimens taken from various parts of the garment. 4. To determine and compare dhangcs which occur as a.result of wear and dry cleaning with dry cleaning only. To compare the ease of "handle" of these two types of fabrics during construction, ease in pressing, stitching, fitting, and extent of yarn slippage. To subjectively compare selected seam, hem, and.reckline construction finishes for serviceability under conditions of normal use and care. REV IE»; OF LIT EPJLTUPE II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE Serviceability studies have been evolved to compensate for the inade- quacy of laboratory testing for measuring the kind and amount of wear which may be expected from the article of apparel in normal use and care (11). However, available information concerning this aspect of textile research is meager and out of date. Pertinent information available is included in this review of literature. Also included is a brief history of resin finishes imparted to fabrics to improve crease resistance. Their application and limitations are considered and the most recent develop- ments are noted. Hayes and Rogers (11) state that there are no standard techniques established for serviceability studies. However, they make the following recommendations. Wear studies should be planned so as not to disrupt established routines and should be completed within a relatively short time. A sufficient number of articles should be allowed for laboratory test samples, as well as for unavoidable accidents, loss of articles, and failure of cooperators to complete the test. Also theggarment used must be of a styling and construction reasonably acceptable to the c00p- erator. As many variables as possible should be controlled. For example, uniformity in style of garment, use of same laundry or dry cleaning estab- lishment, specification of the numborcd'hours of wear, and selection of cooperators of the same occupational group in one geographic location. Some variations in serviceability investigations, however, are out- side the control of the experimenter. For example, results may be affect- ed by the size of the person wearing the garment and the kind of activity engaged in by the wearer ( 5 ). Differences in care of clothing would be another variable factor (11). Hamburger, Platt and Morgan (9) point out that although there has been an ever increasing demand since WOrld War II to<3reate textiles for specific end uses, the general concept of performance still is durability; durability connoting both time to destroy and the rate of failure. Failure in'textiles is commonly associated with rupture. However, textiles are seldom subject- ed to end use requirements where rupture is the absolute criterion of accept- ability. Failure must be considered tor~elate to any deficiencies, lacks, or omissions of the fabric to perform in its end use. Fletcher is in agreement that many properties determine the length of usefulness of a garment and state that in serviceability studies results are obtained by observing things as they are, by analyzing the data and by making what inferences possible from that data (5). The histbry of theepractical use of synthetic resins in textile fin- ishing, such as those applied to the fabrics in this study, dates back to 1926 when the Tootal Broadhurst Lee process was introduced in England. The inventors worked with phenolic and ketone aldehyde resins also, but only the urea formaldehyde resins became important. In 1933 the process was first used in this country for treatment of cottons and in 1935 was applied to rayon dress goods (17). Varying degrees of difficulty are encountered in rendering fabrics crease resistant depending on fiber, yarn, and fabric structure of the material to be treated. This is not surprising since the crease resist- ance of untreated fabrics is dependent on the same factors (15). -6- Fiber content perhaps has the greatest single effect on the inher- ent crease resistance of a fabric, the crease resistant properties of the fiber being dependent on the molecular groupings within it (5). This explains the excellent crease resistance of wool which has cross linking bridges between molecules. The cellulosic fibers, cotton and linen, have poorer crease resistance while the resistance of regenerated cellulose yarns is very poor. In all fibers crease resistance is improved as mois- ture content is reduced (15). Similarly, construction of yarn plays a significant role in resili- ency. Fine yarns with their smaller diameter but of comparable twist per inch to heavier yarns have less resistance to creasing. Also loose irreg- ular fabric conStruction and thicker fabric are said to resist creasing better (5). Fabrics are prepared for application of the creasex'esistant finish by first being desized, scoured, dyed and washed. This is done SO'that they will be clean, absorbent and free frtm alkalies or salts which might retard curing of the resin. They are then impregnated with a resin by being passed through an aqueous solution of resin andczatalyst at con- trolled temperature and pH. The amount of resin required and its effect- iveness varies with the chemical type of theresin.and with the ratio, type and quality of the catalyst used. Up to a certain point crush re- sistance is proportional to the amount of resin added. After impregnation the fabrics are cured at high temperature to polymerize the resin. hith increased temperature the catalyst becomes more acid and accelerates the action. The temperature used and the length of time required for polymerization are in inverse relationship. Care -7- must be taken for over curing will'tender the fabric. Curing time must be determined foreaach curing set up and each fabric construction because the time for the cloth to reach curing temperature is not only dependent on its moisture content, thickness, construction, fiber content and fabric velocity, but also on the air current in the dryer. Subsequently the fabric is washed so as to remove any incompletely polymerized resin and to materialize the acidity developed during curing. This step is essential in safe guarding against odor development in storage (15). Gagliardi and Gruntfest (7) point out that cellulose fabrics may be made resistant to creasing or wrinkling by treatment with a variety of compounds whose action produces chemical or physical cross linking of the molecular chain composing the fiber. Each reduces the swelling of the fiber (8), increases the elastic modulus, reduces creep, and improves elastic recovery. To be effective, however, such cellulose modifying agents must be diffusable in the cellulose. Nondiffusable materials are simply deposited on the surface and do not improve cfease resistance but produce stiffness instead (7). In addition to crease proofing these processes also produce shrink- age control (16), improvement in hand and drape,and increase wet tensile strength (14). Shrinkage control denotes the extension of useful dimen- sion during normal wearing and dry cleaning (21). One disadvantage is that wear and abrasion resistance is normally decreased (14). Loss is greater in cotton than in viscose or acetate. This loss is not due to degradation of the cellulose but to an alteration in elastic properties of the fabrics. If the resin is stripped from the -8- fabric, tensile strength returns to its original value (15). Another disadvantage is that to a greater or lesser degree most dyes are affected by the crease resistant finish but to what extent or exactly what color change is pretty much a trial and error method. Those dyestuffs not affected to shade change are,as a general group, less fast to light ( 4). However, in the case of direct dyes wash fastness is im- proved (15). In recent investigations(18) an odd fact was discovered. An un- treated all raycn shirting material had a wrinkle recovery angle as high as the same fabric in the resin treated state. Both fabrics had been subjected to standard conditions for twenty-four hours prior to testing. It is believed that the length of aging of the fabric was the determining factor in the performance of these fabrics. However, further research is being done. Recently Russell Newton, President of the Dan River hills, Inc., announced the development of a radical and new chemical process, X-Z, and made the following claims. The process is not a resin finish but it assures permanent shrinkage control and offers wrinkle resistance. Immun— ity to the undesirable effects of chlorine bleaches, and elimination of the problem of unpleasant odor are other special features of this process. It is felt that these factors will double the life of garments, make white fabrics practical for the first time, and rayon fabrics completely washable. The improvements mentioned are achieved by changing the molecular structure of the fiber and once changed the rayon fiber cannot return to its original state (15). -9- METHODS AND PROCEDURES III. METHODS AED PROCEDURES Organization of Study Eighteen garments of the same classic pattern but varying in size from fourteen to eighteen were constructed for this study. Kine were rayon gabardine and nine of plain weave suiting of comparable weight. The gabardine was navy blue in color while the suiting was grey and white. Both fabrics were purchased during the summer of 1950 from the J.'W. {napp Company in Lansing, Kichigan. This specific study is one aspect of a more comprehensive Experiment Station Project at Hichigan State College. The fabrics used in this phase of the study were similar to those of Tsuda's study (19) on comparative performance of crush resistant finish on rayon suiting. Laboratory specification tests included yarn analysis for twist and size, and fabric analysis including yarn count, weight per square yard, thickness, tensile strength, and elongation. Testing was done under stanj dard conditions of 65%‘£ 2% relative humidity and 700 f'ZO Fahrenheit 'which is in accordance with A.S.T.M. test procedures (2). Performance tests included drapability, wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability, re- sistance to abrasion, and color fastness tociry cleaning. Modified test procedures were necessary for the drapability test and for determination of the dimensional stability of the garments. In addition to the initial testing of the fabrics from which each garment was cut, a portion of each fabric was dry cleaned with the gar- ments. Specimens of the dry cleaned fabric were withdrawn at specified -11- intervals for the performance tests previously mentioned. To further de- termine change which resulted from dry cleaning only, a portion of each fabric was dry cleaned a total of twenty tines. In order that time dry cleaning procedure be consistent throughout the study, the dry cleaning of the control fabric, as well as the garments, was done simultaneously at the same commercial establishment. The follovdng table summarizes tests arri test intervals for tie fabrics. Ilumber EPDry CEanings Test Urig l 2 L 6 10 15 2Q Yarn Number x Yarn Twist x Yarn Count x x x x x Height x x x x 3: Thickness x x x x x x x Tensile strength I x x x x x x Elongation at x x x x x 3: Dimensional Change J: x x x x x x 1{wrinkle Recovery 1 x x x x x x Drapability x x x x x x 1: Resistance to Abrasion x x x x x Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning 1: x x x x Nine graduate students in the School of Home Economics were cooper- ators in the wear aspect of this study. Each cooperator was issued two dresses made especially for her by the investigator - one each of the gab- ardine and suiting fabric. Each dress was carefully checked fcr size and fit. Each dress was worn for a total of 360 hours. Careful daily records were kept providing information about the exact number of hours mo rn; re- cord of stains, stain removal, pressing; signs of wear such as rips, yarn slippage, abrasion; subjective observations and personal judgment as to appearance, wrinkling, and extent of wrinkle recovery during wear. -12.. At wear intervals of sixty hours, each garment was returned to the laboratory for subjective analysis and determinaticn of any dimensional change in wear. The garments were then dry cleane d. After dry cleaning the garments were again analyzed subjectively and measured to determine any dimensional restorability in dry cleaning. The subjective analysis of each dress included the following considerations - the amount and points of abrasive wear, the number of snags or roughening, the amount of impress- ion on the right side of garment due to pressing, the number of stains, and the feel or hand of the fabric. In addition to the general appear- ance specialized construction finishes of seams, buttonholes, hams, and placket openings were analyzed. L'Ieasunements were taken to the nearest sixteenth of an inch with a steel tape. Horizontal measurements were taken at bust, waist, and hip levels, and across the back of the blouse. Linear measurements were taken at center front, side front, side, and center back of both blouse and skirt. The inside of the pleat at center front of the skirt was also meas- ured as well as the side back seam. T."Iith the exception of center front measurement on the skirt and blouse, all measurements were made from the - inside of the garment. After the garments had been worn the required 360 hours and dry cleaned six times tiey were returned for laba'atory testing and analysis. Test specimens were taken from specified areas of the skirt and blouse front and back, elbow section of sleeve and under arm section of the blouse as illustrated in the cutting charts, appendix page 73-76.The same tests performed on the original and dry cleaned only fabric, namely; weight, thickness, tensile sirength and elongation, wrinkle recovery, and -15- drapability, were also performed on specimens taken from the worn garments. Percentage change from the original fabric in tensile strength and.elonga- tion, weight and thickness was computed and constitutes the criteria for judging the degree of wear. In planning areas to be used in physical testing, the size fourteen dress was drawn to scale of one-fourth inch to one inch. From this diagram cutting charts of the areas to be tested were made. Construction of Garments Each cooperator vas given a paper pattern fitting and a muslin fitt- ing when necessary. The garments were cut from the altered pattern pieces and then assembkad in accordance with the pattern directions. Specified procedures and finishes as outlined,pages 14-15 were developed. Observa- tions on ease of "handle" of these tum fabrics during construction, ease in pressing, stitching and fitting were recorded. The completed garments were labelled according to fabric, size, and number of dress within.the fabric group. The key for the coding of the fabric developed in the prev- ious study by Tsuda follows — Roman numerals designate fabric group; capi- tal letters, weave construction; and.Arabic numbers, the specific fabric within the group. The size of the garment was indicated by arabic numbers preceded by s; the number of the chess within the group by a lower case letter. For example 1A6 - S14a is die code number for the first dress in the rayon gabardine, size fourteen. The same method of pressing and stitching was used for dresses in each group. Throughout construction pressing was done from the wrong side with a stean iron. Twenty stitches per inch were used.fbr all seams; thirty _14:.. stitches per inch, for reinforcement; The welt seams in skirt back were top stitched 3/8 inch from the first line of stitching. The dresses in each fabric group were further divided into groups of three. Different buttonhole, hem, waistline, front facing edge, and arms- cye finishes were applied to each set of three dresses within the fabric group. The buttonholes were beind, piped, and machine made. Hams were seam taped, pinked, stitched and then hand hemmed with hemming or slip stitches. heistline seams were pinked and stitched, seam taped, and pink- ed only. The blouse front facing edge was pinked and stitched, seam taped, or pinked, turned under, and then stitched. Armscye seams were pinked and stitched, seam taped or overcast. In both fabric groups the inside finishes used for each dress were similar. Different finishes, however, were used on the right and left side of each.garnent. On the right side of each garment knots were tied and threads snipped to l/Z inch at dart aids, etc.; vertical seams were pinked to 3/4 inch and stitched and the pocket reinforced with stitching. Also on the right side the facing seam allowance was stitched to the sleeve minus 1/8 inch from the edge, the collar dart tacked to the facing dart with slip stitching and at the waistline the facing seam was tacked to the dress seam. On the left side of‘each garment the dart ends etc. were finished by stitching back for 1/2 inch. The vertical seams were pinked to 3/4 inch. Seam tape was used to reinforce the pocket. Test Methods Yarn.Number- The Universal Yarn Numbering Balance was used in determin- ing yarn size. Thirty-six inch lengths of the spun yarns and 90 centi- -15- -meter lengfiis of the filament yarns'were weighed. The average of ten de- terminations each for warp and filling was computed and recorded as yarn size or denier. Twist per Inch - An Alfred Suter Twist Counter was used to determine di- rection and number of twists per inch. For single yarns of spun rayon a 10 inch gauge length with a 3 gram deflection load was used. The yarn was completely untwisted and then retwisted in the Opposite direction until the same tension existed. The number of turns recorded on the machine was divided by twenty to arrive at the average number of twists in one inch. An average of ten each warp and.filling determinations was comput- ed to determine twist per inch. For the ply yarns the 10 inch gauge and 3 gram deflection load were again used. The twist was completely removed and the total number divided by 10 to deta'mine the number of twists per inch given the two singles comprising the yarn. Ten determinations were made and the average com- puted 31d recorded. The twist of each component in the ply yarn was done separately. The yarn was completely untwisted and the single not being tested was clipped. A gauge length of 5 inches and a deflection of 3 grams were used in determining the number of turns per inch for each ply of the yarn. For the filanent yarns, a five inch length was tmdsted.to rupture. A second yarn was untwisted and thenz‘etwisted until ruptured. The fol- lowing formula was used to determine twist for filament yarns. N2 - N2 3 2T and t - 2-: N1 - N2 L 2(L) -15- in wh ic h 3 N 2 Number of turns (twisted) to ruptuna N Number of turns to untwist and retwist to rupture 1 T : Total of number of turns in yarns t : Turns per inch L = Length of yarn used Yarn Count - To determine the number of yarns per inch a micrometer was used according to A.S.T.H. procedure. In both warp and filling the yarn count was recorded as the arithmetic average of five determinations with no two taken from areas including the same set of yarns. Similarly five determinations each for warp and filling were made at designated areas on each garment after wear and dry ckaaning. Weight per Square Yard - To determine weight per square yard five two inch square specimens taken at random from each fabric were conditioned and weighed on a chainomatic balance according to A.S.T.X. procedure. Formula for computing weight per square yard was: 45.71 x weight of samples in grams : weight in ounces area in inches Height was computed for the original and fabric withdrawn after 6, 10, 15 and 20 dry cleanings. Similarly weight determinations were done from sam- ples taken from specific areas of the worn garments and weight per square yard for each garment calculated. The average weight of dresses within each fabric group and at the specified areas was also calculated. Thickness - The Sheifer Compressometer was used to determine thickness. Each thickness reading was taken when the foot of the compressometer ex- exerted one pound pressure on the fabric and was recorded in inches. -17- hine readings were taken on each specimen and were averaged to calculate. original thickness of the control fabrics and thickness after withdrawal following 2, 4, 6, 10, 15 and 20 dry cleanings. Thickness readings at specified points on each garment were also taken, averaged, and recorded as thickness for each dress. The average thickness of each of the nine dresses at the specified points were calculated for comparison of differ- ence in wear from the various areas of the garment. Dimensional Stability;- markings for dimensional stability measurements were made on the specimens which were dry cleaned 20 times. Five basting lines two and one half inches apart on the warp and filling yarns consti— tute these markings and permitted lO determinations each for tarp and fill- ing to be made. A steel tape was used and'the average of measurements to the nearest sixteenth recorded. Tiny thread knots on the inside of each garment were used as points between which.neasurements were taken to determine the dimensional stabil- ity of the dresses. Each garment was placed over the end of an ironing board while measurements were taken. A steel tape was used and readings were recorded to the nearest sixteenth of an inch. Tensile Strength and Elongation - The ravel strip method outlined in A.S.T.M. testing procedure was used in these tests. Six determinations each were taken for both'wet and dry warp ard filling of the original fab- ric and fabric subjected to 2, 4, 6, 10, 15 and 20 dry cleanings. The average and percentage change from the original was calculated. The meth- od used on specimens from the worn garments after 6 dry cleanings was the same except that sampling had to be limited to one set of determin- ations. Dry determinatiorn'were arbitrarily chosen. -18- firinkle Recovery - The instrument for determining the ability of fabrics to recover from creasing was the honsanto Wrinkle Recovery Tester. Test specimens, 1.5 cm..by 4 cm., warp and filling were conditioned for a mini- mum of four hours. Each test specimen was then placed between the metal leaves of the specimen holder in such a way that one edge of the specimen coincided.wdth the edge of the longer metal strip. The exposed end of the fabric was turned back so that the cut edge fell on the horizontal guide line indicated on.the shorter leaf. The specimen holder was then placed in a plastic press and under a load of one and one half pounds for five minutes. At the end of this creasing time the weight was removed and the specimen holder taken from the phistic press and mounted in the wrinkle recovery tester so that the protruding fabric was aligned with the vertical guide line on the back panel of the tester. The fabric was allowed to recover for five minutes and was adjusted throughout this per- iod so that it was kept in alignmeit. At the end of the recovery period the angle of'recovery was read on the calibrated scale and recorded in degrees. Drapability - An improvised drapemeter patterned after the instrument de- veloped by John H. Skinkle and Arthur J. Moreau was used to drape or handle and stiffness of the fabric. The apparatus had pneviously been set up in the laboratcry (12) and consisted of a metal rod supported on two ring stands. Three two and one half inch paper clips were placed on this hori- zontal rod. A millimeter ruler was held with a clamp and mounted on an- other ring stand. This ruler was fixed in such a position that it was ex- actly one hundred millimeters below'the jaws of the paper clamps. Three samples 100 by 250 mm. were cut for the test, the shorter di- -19- ‘mension being parallel to the set of‘yarns to be evaluated. Each sample. was folded back on itself with the face of the fabric on the convex side and mounted fer measuring by attaching the clamp one-fourth of an inch below the edge of the fabric specimen. The fabric was allowed to hang undisturbed for two minutes. The millimeter scale was then moved up to the concave side of the material with one edge of the scale just touching the fabric and the chord length read and recorded. The reading was also a percentage of width sinze the width was equal to 100 mm. Heasurements were made on the original fabrics and fabrics withdrawn after 2, 4, 6, 10, 15 and 20 dry cleanings. Readings were also made on warp and filling specimens taken frmn the worn garments. Resistance to Abrasion - The Taber Abraser equipped with 05-10 calibrase wheels and exerting 500 grams pnessure was used to determine resistance to abrasion. Six specimens, five inches square, from the original fabrics and subsequently from fabrics withdrawn after the 6th, 10th, 15th and 20th dry cleanings were taken. Three of the six specimens were abraded to a constant number of 150 cycles. The remaining three samples were abraded to a constant number of 250 cycles. Colorfastness to ng Cleaning - One inch pieces of test cloth were basted to the fabric specimens withdrawn after 1, 6, 10, 15 and 20 dry cleanings. -20.. INTERPRETATION OF RESULTS IV. IETERPKETATIOU OF RESULTS Analysis of Original Fabrics Initial Specifications - The gabardine was of a warp faced even twill construction woven of single spun yarns which were a blend of acetate and viscose fibers. This fabric weighed 5.2 ounces per square yard and was .016 inch thick. The warp yarn count was twice that of tha filling vtich is custmmary'in.a twill weave. The warp and filling yarns were of similar size, the warp being slightly heavier. The Tarp yarns were of S twist; the filling of Z twist. The twist pa‘ inch in the warp was 23 per cent greater than that in the filling. The suiting was of plain weave with both acetate and viscose yarns in warp and filling. This.fabric weighed 6.4 ounces per square yard, and was .019 inch thick. The balance in warp and filling count was good with variation of only six more yarns in the warp direction. The filament acetate yarns in both warp and filling of this fabric had the same direction and amount of twist. The viscose filling yarn was a spun single with.a Z twist. The viscose warp yarn was a ply with an S twist. Two single constituents having similar direction and amount of twist made up the ply yarn. The fabrics were different in weave and yarn structure. The suiting weighed one ounce or 18.75 per cent more than the gabardine and was .003 of an inch thicker. The suiting had better balance in yarn count than the gabardine. Because of its unbalanced yarn count the gabardine was easily -22.. distorted. The suiting on the other hand, vhich was almost equivalent in yarn count was firm, smooth of hand, and of good body and weight. The gabardine measured an average 41.7 inches in width and cost $1.28 per square yard. The suiting was wider, being 58.75 inches in width, but cost seven cents less per square yard than the gabardine. The gabardine was a Liallinson 's Rusteena to which the Unidure finish for creaseresi stance had been applied. It was sold w washable, providing that garments made from it were made completely of one color. Burlingtcn Mills was the only identification on the tags attached to the suiting fab- ric. l-Io statement as to extent of crush resistance or guarantee of perman- ency of finish was made for either fabric. Performance Characteristics - Because the fabrics were not the same in their initial specifications they could not be expected to have the same performance characteristics. The following variations were evident. Although there were only 6 more yarns in the warp than in the filling count of the suiting, the dry warp strength was approximately twice the filling strength due to use of a ply yarn in the warp. In the gabardine tie dry warp strength was slightly more than twice the original dry filling strength because of its high warp count. In wet testing, the original warp and filling strength of both fabrics was approximately one-half their dry strength. Yiet strength in the gabardine was higher than in the suiting. V'arp - filling strength ratio for each of the two fabrics was approximately the same in wet testing as in dry testing. The dry warp elongation was greater than filling elongation. Elong- ation was greater in the gabardine than in the suitings due to the more -23.. highly twisted yarns used in both warp and filling of the gabardine. In the wet testing the ratio of warp to filling elongation was approximately the same as in the dry testing. The suiting fabric was almost twice as stiff as the gabardine which may have been due to excess resin deposit on the fabric. Both fabrics had satisfactory wrinkle recovery values both warpwise and fillingwise, the angles being above the standard of 1200 recovery set as satisfactory for rayons. In both fabrics the angle of recovery was higher warpwise than fillingwise. Wrinkle recovery values were higher in the suiting than the gabardine. The resistance to abrasion for first sign of wear of the suiting was approximately one and one-half times as great as that for the gabardines. First break for both fabrics came in the warp. The lower resistance to abrasion of the gabardine was due to its weave structure. This gabardine was characterized by long warpwise floats which could more readily be abraded. -24- accepcswfiucpcc m no cwducbc no Ucmwm .m unowpanHELopoc OH no cwcuo>4 .N I, uncapwnfiEchcv n no owwuchd .H «mam.e mmmflo. Nm.eH Nm.m Nu m¢.mfl N¢.N ma mum oH awe w.¢m ¢.oe m\wumm Amnwpasm pace ham nae» pace pace pace seam naHaa gnaw -maaa mean -aaaa qsnm -dflae bemm.m mamflo. mm.eH mm.mm mm mm mm «.0nfl m\eua¢ maneuanao mouse an meaunaa made. wqaflfiae [muae. ,wnwaawa .muaa L nah mhdswm mcgcnfl qfl mpmwaa gnaw Nouwm chew Handoo hack. npcfig. caupdh hem pmwwma,mwcn#oM‘ H mqmdy monmdm AdszHmo mo mHmwudzd onedpoHommm .pcma Mo swam pmnfim you uncapcnflancpmc copay mo owancww .w .wnflaafim use made new none mncwpmnwsnmpcn ccpnp Mo cwcncbw no pecan mswaaflm can muse mo A.EE nwv nprQH photo mo mnace cauvcsooo .m . = m Mo cwwucbd .m .mfiowphflwfigcpce o no cwcpmbd .H owa mm.mm .Hma m.¢ma em.ma me.mm m¢.ma ee.mm me.mm >m.am em.mm mm.wm cnfieudnco mmm w.¢w m.mmH m.mma me.0m um.©m mw.wH as.mm o.mm mm.mm mm.m¢ mm.mw wanfiSm . h kw .m .3 m .B m - .3 m , .3 emcfloho a“ madam» mmconhcm cfi\ wmfiv ham #0; hag nofimwnnw vflfiflnd hpcboocm Hpncohcmldw- , ‘ Hmcnfiom aw . conapmflmcm Imwhmv cfixnflnfi sowpwwnon nprcnpm cHHmnWE HH mdmda moHMmdb Ademeo m0 mHmwudz< HoszMOKMEm -25- Analysis of Dry Cleaned Fabrics Dimensional Stability_- The suiting shrank progressively in both warp and filling in dry cleaning. Greatest shrinkage occurred in the first ten dry cleanings, the change in bothvarp and filling being less than one per cent. However, during the last ten dry cleanings the warp stretched slight- ly so that terminal shrinkage warpwise was but one-half of one percent. There was also some stretch in the filling resulting in negligible shrink- age. As in the suiting, the general trend in the gabardine was both lin- ear and horizontal shrinkage through repeated dry cleaning. Greatest shrinkage in both directions of the fabric (.62%) occurred during six dry cleanings. The terminal shrinkage, only .38 per cent was the same in both directions. Both fabrics were judged acceptable for their intended use. Total dimensional change was slight and may be considered negligible in terms of a garment. This insignificant change in dimension was evidence that the crease resiStant finish had a stabilizing effect on the fabric. Yarn Count - The amount of shrinkage of bothfabrics during dry cleaning resulted in proportional yarn count change. The greatest increase in both warp and filling coxnt of the suiting occurred in the first tencry'clean- ings. In subsequent dry cleanings the change was less than one per cent. Terminal increase was 2.7 per cent warpwise and 5.64 per cent fillingwise. However, the percentage changes are negligible and did not alter the appear- ance er hand of the fabric. In the gabardine the warp count remained constant through ten.dry clean- ings and then increased progressively through the remaining ten. Filling -27- count increased progressively through the first ten dry cleanings and con- versely decreased progressively through the remaining ten. Terminal in- crease was approximately four per cent from the original in the direction of the warp and three per cent in the filling. height - In repeated dry cleanings both fabrics increased in weight. How- ever, increase in the gabardines was under one per cent while that in the suiting was 16.5 per cent. The greatest increase in the suiting occurred in the first six dry cleanings followed by a six per cent decrease in weight in the last fourteen. The erratic change mayloe due toihe dispersion of excess resin in the dry cleaning process indicating improper finishing. Terminal gain was fourteen per 0 ent. Thickness - In dry cleaning both fabrics increased in thickness, the per- centage change in the gabardine being greater than that of the suiting throughout the series of dry cleanings. Shrinkage, although slight for both fabrics during dry cleaning, was greater in the gabardine and may account, in part, for thickness variation. The higher percentage increase in thick- ness in the gabardine may also indicate that this.fabric retained more of its resin finish in the dry cleaning process. Thickening cannot be account- ed for by shrinkage. , In both fabrics the greatest change was noted in the second dry clean- ing. Terminal thickness gain in the suiting was four per cent from the original and in the gabardine eleven per cent. However, this change was not enough to alter appearance or hand of the fabrics. ~28- mfiowpwnfianpop mafia Mo owmaobd .m Hmaflwwao one Scam owndno owwpnmoamm .N mnowpsnwauopmp chem mo owaaobd .H flflx e008. 00. x :06 0m.m\ ago 86.x 0.9.: 0m $.03N H020. 0m. x 206:“. 0qu 0.50 mméx 4102 2 3.0 x $30. a. x 36 8;». 50 we. .. 0.02 0H oozax 09:0. 00. \ mamas 0 $6 \ 820. e ~06 \ 830. m at? 0.00 0 «.02 H 820. 300.0 .8 $.03 0 «massage was. \ $20. 0.3\ 00%; efmx «.00 8.8“ 0.05 0N SJ \ $20. méq $3; mos.»K 0.0m $.mx 0&0 3 £5 \ «H20. AnzacN $30; 3.? “v.8 33% two 0H m0.m \ «020. $.01 8?; 0 was \ 2.20. w «0.0 \ 0030. N 0 ¢.em ma. . m.mm H mmwflo. mmam.m e.e0 «.00 0 mqapasm .ng‘ .mwobd .£QMW, .Huohd . .nnmn .obd . .N.£QR H.o>4 .0 .Q owabdm negonfi nfl mmomdo aw waafim uflg 90 .oz mmoqxowna mmwfiWB randoo naow ha onmdm 9m2¢on Mma mo MZOHH<0HkHommm HHH mqmda -29- Tensile Strength - In repeated dry cleaning dry tensile strength change ‘ in the suiting was negligible. In wet testing this fabric decreased pro- gressively in strength to a terminal losscd'nine per cent in the warp and eleven per cent in the filling. In the gabardine dry strength change was gradual resulting in a seven per cent loss warpwise and a three per cent gain fillingwise. There was an increase in the wet strength in this fabric of thirteen per cent in the warp and less than one-half of one per cent in the filling. The negligible change in shrinkage does not explain the increased wet tensile strength of the dry cleaned gabardine. The increased yarn count relates to increased tensile strength and might partially account for higher strength. Wet tensile strength change in both fabrics was greater than dry strength change as a result of dry cleaning. Elongation - In the suiting, dry elongation was erratic throughout dry cleaning. The terminal lossj31this fabric was seven per cent in the warp and fourteen per cent in the filling in dry testing and ten and sixteen per cent in wet testing. In the gabardine, dry elongation results were also erratic throughout the series of dry cleanings. Terminally there was an increased filling elongation of four per cent. Warp loss was negligible. In wet testing terminal change was reversed with four per cent in the warp and a negligible amount in the filling. In both fabrics dry elongation was erratic but greater in the suit- ing than in the gabardine. In wet testing both fabrics showed decreased elongation at the termination of dry cleaning; the loss being greater for the suiting than for the gabardine. -30- ‘VIBEiICi IEEIVIIELAJ CE} Tensile ftrength in Pounds IV T” rm 0 .LL'. J.’;.L Y CLEAKIKG Elongation in Perdent Q. 3.]. d 0031ng 1 15 20 C“. 0 CM 0 (:0 C71 0 C) (33 C0 0) CO 0 CU} \‘lmm C") o .01»: (Q {\9 (I O O O C) Q \‘l O) ('51 C111 0 He 03 HS 03 (.3 75> 01 to O :0 03 \1 OJ 01 ()1 I 0 O O 03 01 J) 113 UIQRUOQCHCO‘Q ,5 FP’r—‘Z‘OCOk13010 o Hkrpfil". O \‘li—JQD O \1 l-—-3 {\D (O {\3 ODQO NCJ 25.75 25.75 22.55 24.0* 22.92 25.92 25.85 26.77 25.45 (\D {‘0 U] C) o O NFQN J10] C ~<1\'I|-11—'H> UlfiCfl‘x'l (3)7 o 5.0 '1058 -5098 “6015 -r‘ .74: - .0711. 15.45 16.55 15.5 16.07 16.2 15.17 16.15 “\W\l V\ (:51 W\1 1;; I (.71 o \ til“? CN o o O) ‘Q (N l l \1A14 {\3 H I C1 0 CO O'l (OH , O a) 14 o 10. Dry Let .1 7‘.“ . 7" _ .‘ . H. '1‘; »‘ - . of dar Filling Larp -Eillir Harp Fllllng warp Filling D.C. Avg.l ,5ve. ‘ Ave. f Ave. Aveafi fiflhdz Ave. Ave. fiCh. ave. ' 0 55 55 57,15 35,25 2g. 22.77 16.85 26.57 20.72 I u ‘ f- ,— '_ A r. -13 Q I“ 5‘ r7 -0 - 2 62.42 —1..4 56.65 54.25 5.52 15.92 20.7 ~- ~ 10.08 20.8 5.75 17.85 [1 6A— 5?) 711:):8 3?) :17 'J/L 00 5 BO 20 08 20.32 -8012 14:08 24.18 '8050 3.8.45 .1: 4.. L. I __ <- l L o . -0 \J a u o 0 Fr ‘ ,_., ‘ ( n n 6 65.65 / .79 54.25 52.75 9.66 19.17 42-d6 ~2.o7 14.22 54.08 ~6.65 17.97 16 65.75 /5.52 55.17 55.75 6.9 15.55 20.58 -9-62 15.35 24.1 ~5.61 15.95 15 64 17 /1 75 54 a2 55 o 5.97 5.67 21.17 ~7-OS 15.05 25.53 ~10.77 17.17 ‘0 .Q“ 01...: O L ‘ h‘ M n", 90 52 a -1 71 55.57 53.0 8.97 9.58 21.08 ~7.42 15.9 25.75 -9.94 17.55 15.57 15.42 15.9 14.02 14.88 14.47 15.25 1 (~. 4. e: U Average tensile strength in pounds rercentage change from original Average elongation in cent based 0: ge of five 9 C>fl14 D O (.0 (3 (fl U’ {/1 £1) terminations 0?: 9 4e (N U] (N I X\ 01 Ch] (I) -q mgm.mqmda -50- .mqwaaflm one mesa pom some mnowpmsflfipopee meaty we ewsnebw no women wnflafifim was mama mo A.EE mwv :pwsmH pace Mo mason cappeaoew m .Hdnfiwwao exp Scam ownsgo omwpneoamm m .msOflpsQflEaepoe open no women mooawee ca hao>ooop mo mamas owspo>< H commode mo.s . Ho.em em.mx mm.mma Hm. . mm.mma e nape s whoa hHso ao.»a- .w.Hm em.m\ «.mna ee.wx N.oeH e eoqaono than mm.em o.HmH N.emH o Headwaeo enflvadnso vendeao H.am- mm.ee ea.oH- so.mNH «H.HH- efi.mma e -ape s ape; mane me.am- me.me aH.H- o.an o e.mnfl e empamfio thhm e.ee w.em~ e.mmH o quamapo weapasm .|.nem enema .mme .ope p.gge H.os¢ .o.q unease mgflflflae «4, meme, mo u03Ha>w inaobooom maxawna_ .oz apaflopemepn WOHmmdm sz¢EHo Mma a zmofi 024 .MuzO Ganquo wmg .AdZHono mo wowdmmommmm ma ZOmHMdMSoo .pcoo H> mumda -61.. FABRIC SPECIFICATIQNS CF EACH BURN G.RKUNT TABLE VII Fabric Dresd' Yarn Couht Weight Thickness harp, Filling in ounces in inches Ave. 77h. Ave. fiEh. Ave.per sq.yd. flCh. FAve. flCh. Suiting s14a 59.8 4'.99 55.9 2'.92 6.164 - 5.51’.01648 -11.02 S18b 59.9 - .85 55.2 -2.21 6.4782 ‘/ 1.62 .0164? -11.07 S186 59.6 -1.52 55.4 -1.84 6.2698 - 1.65 .01657 -11.61 S14d 59.5 -1.82 55.8 -1.1 6.5091 - 1.04 .01582 -14.58 S16a 60.1 - .5 55.8 -1.1 6.4568 / 1.28 .01651 -11.95 Sle 59.6 -1.52 54.0 - .74 6.2556 - 1.88 .01666 -10.04 s14g; 59.7 -1.16 55.6 -1.47 6.4076 ‘/ .51 .01657 -10.55 8145 59.6 -1.52 54.0 - .74 6.2289 - 2.17 .01610 -15.07 8141 60.2 - .55 55.6 -1.47 6.2580 - 2.15 .01559 -15.82 Gabardine S14a 150.4 0 65.9 y/l.58 5.192 - .65 .01565 - 2.19 Slab 129.6 - .61 65.7 1/1.08 5.0715 - 2.94 .01495 - 6.45 3180 128.9 -1.15 66.0 ‘{1.54 5.2151 - .18 .01508 - 5.65 Sl4d 128.9 -1.15 64.7 - .46 5.0078 - 4.15 .01494 - 6.51 816e 128.4 -1.55 65.9 ‘/1.38 5.1271 - 1.87 .01594 - .25 Sl8f 129.2 - .92 65.9 y/1.58 5.1917 - .65 .01581 - 1.06 814g 127.9 -1.92 65 0 5.1917 - .65 .01584 - .88 314h 128.9 -1.15 65.5 / .46 5.0274 - 5.78 .01440 - 9.89 814i 127.7 ~2.07 64.7 - .46 5.0212 - 5.90 .01496 - 6.58 Average of all determinations taken at specified areas within each dress. -62- TABLE'VIII FABRIC SPECIFICATIJNS AT SPECIFIED AREA CF EDIE CAREBITS Fabric yArea Determ-Vl Yarn Cpppt I Height Thickness ination arp Filling in in inches Taken Ave. flbh. Ave. nCh. I grams Ave. flbh. Suiting If Sleeve 60.2 -.33 52.9 -2.76 .01545 -16.58 Blouse Side front 59.6 -1.32 53.2 -2.21 .55 .01634 -11.77 Center " 60.6 / .55 55.8 -1.1 .01712 - 7.56 Center back 60.1 - .5 53.0 -2.57 .55 .01562 -15.66 Skirt Center front Right 58.6 -2.98 53.9 - .92 .01657 -10.53 Left 59.6 -1.32 53.8 -1.1 .0163 -ll.99 Side front Right .55 Left .56 Side back Rigdt 59.4 “1.66 5401 ‘ 055 001642 “11054 Left 59.6 -1.32 54.1 - .55 .01622 -12.42 Center back 60.1 - .5 54.4 0 .56 .01633 -11.83 Gabardine Sleeve 129.8 - .46 65.5 ,1 .46 .01458 -10.01 Blouse Side front 150.6 / .15 65.2 / .51 .45 .01525 - 4.69 Center " 151.8 /1.07 66.7 /2.62 .01571 -- 1.69 Center back 127.0 -2.61 64.6 - .62 .44 .01515 - 5.19 Skirt Center front Right 127.0 -2.61 66.2 /1.85 .01548 - 5.15 Left 128.2 -1.69 66.2 /1.85 .01566 - 2.60 Side front Right .45 Left .45 Side back Right 128.0 -1.84 65.5 ,1 .46 .01522 - 4.8 Left 127.3 -2.38 64.6 - .62 .01527 - 4.4 Center back 130.2 - .15 64.9 - .15 .45 .01546 - 3.25 Average of nine dresses in each fabric group -63- AVERAGE PERCELTAGE DI '1 F“. ' P 1.2.1.110 TABLE IX AND DRY CLEANIEG IN EACH DRTSS IORAL CHARGE THROUGHJUT WEAR Fabric Heasurement Dress S14a S186 S186 S146 8166 sle 814a 81411 814:1 Suiting Horizontal Bust level .40 .86 .43 .74 - .17 .75 .41 .68 .28 haist level .24 1.84 .68 .76 .24 .96 .02 .90 .84 Hip level .24 - .13 .91 - .88 .33 -1.30 .30 - .42 .002 Across back blouse .34 -1.01 .54 - .08 -1.68 -l.23 -1.09 .80 - .11 Linear Blouse Center front .86 .07 - .32 2.42 1.22 0 - .29 1.23 .07 Side front -.42 .03 .29 .06 - .12 - .08 .53 1.31 .16 Side -.49 .43 .37 3.51 1.05 .13 .96 .48 .39 Center back .64 .10 .19 .62 .45 .59 .39 1.34 - .12 Skirt . Side front -.06 .30 .12 - .17 .03 - .60 - .43 - .42 - .64 Side -.63 - .62 - .87 - .47 - .47 - .30 - .57 - .68 - .83 Side back -.65 -.001 - .61 .05 - .80 - .65 - .33 - .48 - .53 Center back -.02 - .12 - .58 - .24 - .74 - .48 - .58 - .35 - .83 Seam at back ' of pleat -.13 .36 0 .08 - .07 - .84 .36 - .12 - .72 Center front to indenture .71 1.02 .62 2.14 1.02 .14 1.29 .98 - .07 Pleat edge -.28 - .21 .02 .22 .44 - .28 - .16 .30 - .22 Gabardine Horizontal Bust level .32 -l.32 - .93 - .97 - .18 .01 .23 .01 .03 Waist level .14 .46 1.10 .40 - .09 .83 1.07 .34 1.13 Hip level .53 1.69 - .22 .42 1.07 -1.04 - .10 - .66 .10 Across back blouse-561 - .26 - .73 - .07 - .27 - .34 - .24 -1.45 - .03 Linear Blouse Center front 2.48 - .57 1.09 - .76 1.10 .08 - .08 - .49 .70 Side front .35 .27 1.40 - .60 .96 .05 - .10 - .60 - .84 Side .68 .07 .07 2.37 2.58 2.39 - .08 1.90 .91 Center back .09 1.49 1.08 .98 .75 1.25 .32 1.20 .22 Skirt Sidefront v.45 - .29 -1.28 .04 - .22 - .86 - .76 - .76 .15 Side v.88 - .08 - .60 - .25 - .51 - .48 - .82 - .78 1.63 Side back v.45 - .05 - .53 - .35 - .58 - .18 - .71 .18 .54 Center back P.68 .66 - .79 - .63 - .70 - .40 - .13 O - .55 Seam at back of pleat P.37 - .49 .46 .17 -1.30 -1.10 .16 -l.39 -1.05 Center front to indenture .08 .52 - .22 .54 -1.73 2.80 .87 1.22 .39 Pleat edge - .38 - .31 - .83 -1.05 -1.09 .76 - .27 -1.24 -1.25 Average of the percentage changes computed before and after six dry cleanings. -54- memmeae esHs Mo owsmno puma Lem ewnuobw mm. 00.. Ho. NH.1 MH. mH.1 mm.1 Om.1 moo.1 on. mm.\. >m.1 owes pdeHm . endpaeeqH :4 $4 mo; we; 50. 8. we. 04. 8. mo; 2i 3.x on pact 55.68 Paon m9.1 m0. om.1 mm.1 mH.1 mH.1 90.1 mm.1 mm. 4H. 0m.\. mm.1 mo Moan pa Edam mm.1 mm.1 Om.1 sm.1 pm.1 om.1 55.1 No.1 bH.1 Mm.1 Hm.1 mH.1 Moan hopsmo mm.1 mH.1 m¢.1 mm.1 m¢.1 96.1 >>.1 50.1 FH.1 mm.1 em.1 mH.1 #089 epr 0m.H1 mm. mm.1 Hs.1 me.1 No.1 om.1 sm.1 04.1 mm.1 $5.1 4H.1 eeHm 50.1 mo.1 99.1 em.1 em.1 m¢.1 mm.1 mm.1 mm. m0.1 m0.1 no.1 pnohm ouHm QAme mo.H mo.H mm. Hm. ow. mH. we. Hm. Hm. mm. mH. «m.1 #059 ampqeu so.H mm.H mH.N mm.H «m. mo.H um. mo. 05. Ho. wo.1 500. ova o¢.H mm. om. mm. Ho. Ho. sm.1 mm.1 NH.1 no. sm.1 mm. psoam oeHm m¢.H ms. mo.H we. ow. mm. mm. 05. mm. mm. 96. 00.1 psoam hopqmo_ omson . ndonHH OH.H1 mo.1 m¢.1 Om.1 09.1 O©.1 Hm.1 mm.1 NH.1 mm.1 mo.1 50.1 Mesa omSOHQ muonod 05. um. mm. @H. mo. mH. ©N.1 no.1 0H.1 om. «0.1 he. HobeH mHm mo.m NH.H mm. mm. mm. mm. mm. em. mm. «5.1 mm. ON. HebmH vaefl mm. mm. mm. mm. on. em. mo. mm. om. do. um. we. HeboH pmsm HansouHaom m m m m . e 4 _ m i m m m H H umpm¢ euomom nepm< enemommhopwm whomem aopHd macho nophd onomem ampMd oaommm -mwsflnseHo hum Mo pepesz vGethSmsQQ mamm< QmHmHommm H< mmmwmmm wHHHHmm mmm 3H N mqmda 5 —\ m ”36 $232,545 Emu mam SSE... 5 6 mmwmoav msHs mo emceno puma .Hem owapobd an. 1 ea. 1 ms. 1 Os.H1 ma. 1 oN.H1 so.H1 on. 1 mo.H1 ao.H1 mm. 1 as. 1 meet aaaHm mm.H as. ow.H as. ao.H ma. 6H.H mo.H 5H. 1 Ha. mm. 1 so.H mannaae , 13H OF PQOhM houfimo ON. 1 me. 1 an. 1 me.H1 me. 1 HN.H1 ON. 1 we. 1 an. 1 an. 1 oN. 1 an. 1 naaHa no Mean an seam am. 1 an. 1 4H. 1 we. 1 NH. as. 1 Hm. 1 as. 1 me. 1 we. 1 no. mo. 1 9655 655550 4H. 1 ma. 1 4H. 1 mm. 1 4H. an. 1 4H. 1 mm. 1 4m. 1 we. 1 an. 1 mo. 1 Mann oeHm oH. 1 HH. 1 ea. 1 an. 1 am. 1 He. 1 we. 1 we. 1 we. 1 on. 1 mH. 1 2H. oeHm HH. 1 4m. 1 ea. 1 ea. 1 He. 1 as. 1 an. 1 we. 1 mm. 1 an. 1 Ho. aH. pecan team . . anam em.H we. om.H mo.H mm. as. ea. we. ”a. He. an. em. 1 9655 pounce He.H am.H mm.m oa.H mH.m ma.H Ho.H ow. me. an. aH. 1 HH. mean we. sH. 44. em. 46. AH. «O. 40. a4. 1 an. 1 Ho. 1 Hm. 1 , agape aenm wH.H we. 1 ea. mH. mm. mm. Ha. mH. mm. mm. 54. Ho. Scone napnao OMSOHm ”mg 64. 1 mm. 1 ea. 1 ea. 1 we..1 am. 1 an. 1 ow. 1 ma. 1 am. 1 we. 1 mo. 1 9656 aaaoHn 556664 He. am. an. oH. 1 5m. 5H. 50. 6H. NH. 1 an. mo. .66. HaaaH AHm Hm.H oo.H as. 06. mm. 04. am. on. me. mm. am. no. 1 HaaaH paHae an. 1 New 1 we. 1 Hm. 1 Na. 1 5H. H4. 1 pH. we. 1 me. 1 am. 1 5H. 1 HaaaH 555m . . . Havfiouflhom a a m m a e m a N m H H . hmPhdwmhommmihmfifid Ohommm LWPM¢ GLOQQm. L®PM< muchmm hmpmd.bhommm. hoPm<.0hOMom. .mmfififidoHO MS MO hmnfifiz #fiofimhfimdmfi mag DmHmH omnHm Ed mmmmmmm ESQmedw Mme 2H mwzflmo Hun Bm¢ 66.6 1 66.6H 6H.HH1 66.66 66. 66 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.66 66H6 H.6H- 66.6H 66.6H1 H6.66 66.61 66.6 H.66 66.6H1 66.66 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6 1 66.66 66.6H1 66.6 H6.66 66.HH1 66.66 66.666 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6H1 66.66 66. 1 66.6 66.66 6H.6H1 66.66 6.66 66H6 66.6 1 H6.6H 6H.6 1 66.66 6.61 6.6 66.66 H6.6H1 66.6H 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6 1 66.66 66. 1 66.6H 66.66 66.6H1 6.6H 6.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 6H.6H1 66.66 66.61 6H.6 66.66 66.6H1 66.66 66.H6 o6H6 66.6 1 H6.6H 66.HH1 66.66 6.61 66.6H 6.66 66.6H1 6.6H 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6H1 66.66 66.61. 6.6 66.66 H6.6H1 66.66 66.66 66H6 anHeaansa 66.HH1 66.6H 66.661 6.6H 66.61 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 6H.66 66H6 6H.6 1 66.6H 66.6H1 66.6H 66.61 6.6 66.66 H6.HH1 6.6H 6H.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6H1 66.6H 6H.61 6H.6 6H.66 6.6 1 66.6H 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 6H.6H 66.HH1 H6.66 6H.61 66.6 66.66 H6.6 1 6.6H 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6H1 H6.6H 66.61 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 H.6H H6.66 66H6 6.6H1 66.6H H6.HH1 6H.66 66.61 6.6 6H.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.H6 66H6 6.6H1 66.6H 6.6H1 66.6H 66.61 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 6.6H 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.6H1 66.6H 6H.61 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 6.6H 66.66 66H6 66.6 1 66.6H 66.HH1 66.66 66.61 66.6 6.66 66.6 1 66.6H 6.66 66H6 6666666 . 68.6161 . 036 . now” . 036. . 68w“ omcmm . med . 20mm owsdm . 95w anaHHHa 6666 ennHHfia 6665 sOHpanOHm awmsoupm eHHnneB mmoaa oHnnem 6666666 2666 6666 66 66H 666666 666 66666666 6666666 HHN Emma. -67.. m306m cannam £066 36 6066666 6:6: 60 omauobd 66.6 \1 66.66 6.6 1 66.66 66.6_\ 6.6 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.66 Hmpofl 666 666666 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 H6.H_\ 66.6 66.66 6.6 1 66.6 66.66 66666 666 6666 . 6666 66666 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 x. 66.6 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.66 6066666 6666566 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 H6.66 66.6 1 66.66 H6.66 6666666 6656666 66666 66666 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.661 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.66 6666 666666 66.6 1 66.66 66.661 66.6H 66.6 1 6.6 6.66 66.661 66.66 66.66 6666666 6666666 OmSOHm 66.6 1 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.66 6666666 36666 66.661 66.66 6.661 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 66.661 66.66 6.66 6666666 6666666 05.0 mdm mfiHU thdU 66.661 6.66 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 6.66 Hopmfi 666 666666 66.6 1 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 .6 H6.66 66.6 1 66.6 6.66 Hmpofl 666 6666 6666 66666 66.6 1 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 .6 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 6666666 6666566 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 1 66.66 66.6 1 6.6 66.66 66.6 1 6.6 66.66 6066666 6656666 66066 66666 66.661 66.66 66.661 6.66 66.661 66.6 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 6666 666666 66.661 66.66 6.661 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 66.661 6.66 66.66 6666666 6666566 03.6on 66.61 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 6.6 66.66 6.6 1 6.6 66.66 6666666 36666 66.61 66.66 66.661 66.66 66.6 1 66.6 66.66 6.6 1 .6 66.66 6666666 6606664 . . . obomflm 6666656 .ADR .obd .AMM1 .obd .MMR1 owmwm .oh¢ .gpm ownwm .obd nexus 6666666 mum: 6666666 6666 66666666566666 Jjwowpawnoam agwwmupm oHfimqoe «mad afippam 6 666666 6666 66 66666 666666666 66 6666666666 626.66666666 6666666 HHHN fiumda -68- TABLE.XIV WRINKLE RECJVJRY AID DRARABILITY VALUES 017 11110:: 11::111 6201: 21:1 Fabric Dress Erinkle Reoovegy» Dragability Earp Filling Geometric Kean 'K#e. %3_. Ave. flCh. Ave. Hun. Suiting 8143 119.8 -13.56 119.87 -12.38 46.7 -27.48 Sle 121.87 -l2.07 116.77 -l4.64 50.07 -22.25 3180 122.8 -11.4 117.77 -13.91 49.05 -23.84 Sl4d 121.97 -12.0 120.83 -ll.67 48.32 -24.97 $16e 123.33 -ll.02 124.77 - 8.79 41.52 -35.53 Sle 124.6 -10.1 127.33 - 6.92 47.04 ~26.96 Sl4g 120.07 -l3.37 123.8 - 9.5 44.64 -30.68 Sl4h 126.4 - 8.8 121.95 -10.86 48.92 -24.04 3141 127.6 - 7.94 125.5 - 8.26 46.31 -28.09 Gabardine $14a 131.73 - 1.84 123.73 - 5.55 37.36 / 2.08 S18b 131.03 -2.36 121.8 - 7.02 32.57 -10.96 3180 130.0 - 3.13 121.73 - 7.08 37.64 ,1 2.9 314d 132.97 - .92 121.0 - 7.63 33.29 - 8.99 3166 132.73 - 1.1 121.27 - 7.43 31.06 -15.09 Sle 135.4 /' .89 125.4 - 4.27 34.35 - 6.09 Sl4g 132.4 - 1.39 118.8 - 9.31 31.75 -l3.2 Sl4h 135.02 .61 122.4 - 6.56 33.47 - 8.5 3141 135.5 .97 121.53 - 7.23 34.57 - 5.5 Average of all determinations taken at specified areas within each dress -69- ooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooo IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII TABLE.XV HRIIKLE RECOVEiY AhD DRAPABILITY VALfES QF'EORN GARIEITS AT SPECIFIED AREA Fabric Area Trinkle heccvery Drapability Determination Ciarp Filling Taken Ave. flCh. Ave. 1 23h. Suiting ' Sleeve 119.02 -l4.13 110.56 -19.18 44.98 Blouse Sidefront 125.4 -10.97 123.17 - 9.96 47.35 Center back 122.71 -ll.46 120.89 -ll.63 48.39 Skirt Center front 123.67 -10.77 124.82 - 8.75 34.2 Side back 125.62 - 9.38 127.44 - 6.86 Center back 124.53 ~10.15 125.51 - 8.25 Gabardine Sleeve 133.11 ' .81 105.53 -19.44 Blouse Side front 133.04 - .86 152.67 / 1.27 Center back 133.18 - .77 124.36 - 5.07 Skirt Center front 131.13 - 2.28 126.51 - 3.43 34.13 Side back 133.91 ’- .22 125.62 - 4.11 31.75 Center back 133.51 - .59 125.38 - 4.29 XVerage of nine dresses in each -70- fabric group - <11 . fl - W .1” 4 » L ~ ‘ :..-- LE #- .. (+- o. *1 ‘ H. J .- ” C“ :7 a .--- :3 “M .— ‘ (j -- .M- —~ .. (JV? ;:—~———_:._.~ (D .,, ... .- M- -- :3 WW” -- ’J. - . b5 , 3 \ , 10 15 20 7117’ ~‘ Wbrn 360 Hours ‘¢ ‘M *auh ' PLAT E II I Front View Back View Indicate location for width measurements Indicate location for linear measurements -72- __ apflfifipsmaae hamboomu ofixnfihs Pgwwos mmocxowap gpwsbAPm wnflmsmafi mafiaaflm zpmcmupm mmflxamun macs opomfim pamflm ‘k M 'L m‘q“ 'L'L i—. 23 p; ‘4 dilz. K u.J:L_____————————"" mmbcoam pom pecan wfiwppdo >H ma¢qm mpmmfim 3284 -73- psopm pmpqco peeam 114 Q I i 58024 883m peeflm (I 1r 8 Mocm popmoo cmsoam aom pndno wqfipwdo > ma4Am apflflflpammae . .4886 hamboomn mflxnfips u .m.m Pswfios u .93 mmchoHSp u o gpwmmppm wnflxcmpn wnflfiaflm u m zprcpwm mqfixdwpn made u 3 psoam mean quph ucpnoo Pawn puma I -74- 888m 8288m 288288 82888 288288 8288 888m 8288 l 0'", li". I -75- .83 82822 82888 282 82828 8288828 5 33m 882m 82888 Moam pcpflco I ‘ 888m 828xm 288 82828 828883 HH> waagm mwflm pmmq -76.. A. B. D. ILSTHUCTlth T0 CGUPARATUR OUTLINED Purpose and objectives of study - You are participating in a study that has been designed to evaluate the reliability of laboratory testing as predictive of fabric performance during normal use and care. Lithout your cooperation this study could not be carried on. You and the records you are asked to keep are very important to this project. Requirements of cooperators l. Kear garments 2. Return dresses for inspection and dry cleaning at’specified intervals. ’ 3. Keep records a. How to fill out wear record b. Importance of keeping them accurately Specific instructions concerning care of garments by cooperators l. Pressing - with cool iron on wrong side 2. Spot and stain removal a. Start when stain is fresh b. Use 0001 water or, in case of grease or ink stains, an absorbent powder such as - corn meal, chalk, talcum powder, or cornstarch. 0. Stains of unknown origin had best be left to the commercial cleaner or bring the garment to the textile laboratory. ImprOper treatment may set certain stains.(6 ). Expression of (1.) appreciation to cooperators for part in the study and (2) desire that cooperators enjoy taking part in study. -77- . E88 20:80 888m . maven 71h.opo 882809 .mmw2 and . pnoapwoha vnwm «unwapm had «wnwuaok chomop mmmum 08 hudmmooo: 88 «MB 88888 88882228 ‘NHopd2oeoE voHquha 788828288 88882828 I ooqwudcmmd Hauonoo 28¢: wnw2se 58888804 88828888 888822 Mdemhfiza meson H8808 obfldezBSO duos made: Havmw Afimlzdv quot mnsmm >mwmmcema mmmwoda hmeeow Qonmm Mdmg NON .Em I £0580 .m on ghdpom 888282 88888 a n 888 8888822 . 8888 . om\8 8888888888 88 8288 888888 8888 Investigator's Record Sheet COde NO 0 Dress No. Viewer '3 Name Inclusive Bear Lotal Total Observations made during inspection Dates of Period tours Dry Before Afta‘ Wear Complet-korn Cleanings dry dry Periods ed To date cleaning cleaning 3 '\ \ -79- Plate VIII - Dress of the suiting fabric before 360 hours of wear and six dry cleanings. #80‘ - {I I (1" l I I [ ( .I ‘I . I! «I Ii 1‘. I II l (I! l 1 1' l.‘ t 1 III a I [I ( II I I u I I I II II I l I \ Plate IX - Dress of the suiting fabric after 360 hours of wear and six dry cleanings. -81- t I t.‘ Naval." .l -.,_ ‘1 .4 ‘..- I 307. 1‘.' LL, 21! .7." J1 ‘ - l III-1‘. v.“ ‘4' ‘ 1‘] (\-v:[. I - Y, ‘1‘ v. ‘I'. (1‘ . _ _ [I \r -f Bound ill! Machine Made Plate X - Types of buttonholes used. Photographs taken of unworn dresses of the suiting fabric.- -82— I\.l‘i(’l\[ l ,llulll‘tll‘ .ll in‘..l.[ll‘[‘ [.[.}ul.l.[[1l[[[~[[r\([1l I II 'I I - . 1' II’ 1'11 11'11'11'1’ '1 1 1 1811fiK5”' . 11‘ . 1 1‘11I1I‘1111'11II11111I‘1,1,11,11II1I'W111111I . . , .1811 111111 1 . 1,1,111111111' v 1.. .1111 W ,1 111, 1"1‘" 1111111. 11. 4111.1 . ' ‘. 11 1 1' 1] 11 1111.1 31:" H '. .Ii 1" 1 1"111111 111111.. 1 ”1' 1 111 1 1 1.1' 1 1111111111 1 1 II 11111111111111 1 1‘ I “11111111111111 I1 I 1 ‘11.. 111111111111, .1 1 11'11II1W1‘11111111 111.131 11‘ '1‘ - . 1.1 .1 11‘1‘ 1‘ 11111.11 111111 1 111 ' .. 11 1.111 “111'“ 11111 ‘1. 1.1.111 111111 111 11 . .4111 rm .m1m.« 1111111H 'W””1w‘m I I ' 11111.11 1111111‘11'111.1 ‘1 1'1“" ‘ 111‘11111'1111'11‘11 1111‘? ‘I.1'01.111.11.11. 1111111111 1111111 1 111.1 1 ‘ 1 11 :1'11111‘11-1 '1 11111111 111 “It” 1 1111 ' 111111‘ 1111111 1. 111MW1WW1W1 1.1111111111111111‘11111111 .1. 1 111,..1111‘111111.11111111111111119111 111111111111111‘ 1111111 1111 1111 1111111111111 111111111111 111 1111H1 1 111‘11'1111111 1“ 11 111111 1111111111 111111 111111111111 1111.1. 11111111 1111111111111111 1111.- 11111111111 111 . 1111111111 11111111111 111111111111 11.1.1111 11111111. 1 11.111111111111111 "“1 :111 .8 . Y’H‘ _..—--‘— .r—vfl. ":L—f‘ .8”, 7 ‘ ' 111.111 1 r I, 1 1111 -‘_'_,_—— i _ . ,_,_’-< d-v- _. ._ I , 1 1 Plate XI - Effect of 360 hours wear and six dry cleanings on ,, q1q. . 1 buttonholes of the 1181~ I 1' ' 1. 1 suiting garments. From M1 8.1, 111111 1W1WMM1 ' left to:right are 1 1N118 . .. ’ “WJW11 machine made, piped,and “” ”W‘ ' ' ” 11'111 bound buttonholes. 111., . 1.1 1.1.1! .1.Il'l‘f1[.l'l\1ll" u! -84- Plate XII - Effect of 360 hours wear and six dry cleanings on buttonholes of the gabardine garments. From left to right are machine made, piped and bound buttonholes. Plate XIII - Overcast, seam taped, and pinked and stitched armscyes of the gabardine dresses showing effect of 360 hours wear and xix dry cleanings. V .ii % "E Z c , . Ill! Ifllll 11. w-~ U I U .18.." ‘ ‘1 ‘fl’ %“ we' 'b~r—‘k‘~, ' "“K; . - "“5 Plate XIV - Gabardine fabric deterioration at under arm at termination of 360 hours wear and six dry cleanings . -ea- RUDMUSfi ONLY F: ““15 {>4 , Nh' 1 ’b4 W ‘5 '54 MV’ T'RI M3118 an JP 2 '91.. Je \n '54 '54 fife) 7'55 {MEIR-LIBRARY LOAN “qu4 q79§ Aug 6 ’56 new?!“ MW?