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A srum OF ME: RELIABILITY OF
LABORATORY TESTS 1N MEASURING
SERVECEABIUTY OF RAYON sum

Thesis for the Degree of M. A.
MECHIGAN STATE COLLEGE

Thelma Lucetta Thompson
19947

 

 

Thisistooertifgthatthe

.thesis entitled
”A Study of the Reliability of

Laboratory Tests in Measuring
Serviceability of Rayon Slips”

presented by

Thelma Lucetta Thompson

has been accepted towards fulfillment
of the requirements for

I. A. dog!“ in To C. & R. A.

 
 

DateW

Major professor 5' DT—

2419

MN I 1 “>50

.A STUDY OF THE} RELIABILITY
OF LABORATORY TESTS IN MEASURING SERVICEABILITY

OF RAYON SLIPS

By
THELMA LUCETTA THOMPSON
W

.A THESIS

Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan
State College of.Agriculture end.Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements

for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related.Arts

1947

“a.

 

ACMONLEDGMENTS

This serviceability study is a part of a more comprehensive
research project on knitted and woven slips being conducted at Iichigan
State College. The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation
to Miss Easel B. Strahan for her guidance and supervision of this
thesis: to Dean Marie Dye for her assistance and to Mrexmei‘ne Caren
‘for her help on statistical analysis of the data. The writer also
desires to express her deepest gratitude to the eighteen co-cperators

who participated in this study by wearing and maintaining records on

the slips .

193311

TABLE OF

I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . .
II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE . . . .
III. MATERIALS AND METHODS . . .
Fiber Content . . . . .

Yarn Analysis . . . . .
Fabric Analysis . . . .
Laundry Procedure . e .
Measurements . . . . .
Methods of Sampling . e
Visual Inspection . . .

IV. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS 0 e .
A..Ana1ysis of the Fabrics .

Fiber Content e e e e e

CONTENTS

Weight in Ounces per Square

Yarn Count e e e e ee e e e e e e
Yarn.Lnalysis e e e e e e e e e e

Breaking Strength e e e e e e e e

Yard

B. Analysis of Fabrics'Which'Were Laundered Only

C. Analysis of Fabrics.After‘Wear and Thirty Launderings

D. Subjective Analysis of Worn Slips . . e . . . e . e .

V. CONCLUSIONS

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VI.SUMMARYeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 52
LITERATURECITFD.e...................... 56

APPEBIDIX O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O I O O O O O 0 O 68

I . INTRODUCT I OH

The consumer and manufacturer are both becoming increasingly
interested in the merits of laboratory testing. The consumer: is anxious
to know what is the best buy for his money, while the reputable and
progressive manufacturer wants to be able to present facts about his
product to his clientele. As a result of such interest, many manu-
facturers now have set up their own laboratories for testing their
products. In addition, mail-order houses and large department stores
are maintaining testing laboratories for testing the products they sell.
Government and commercial testing laboratories also play an important
part in testing consumers' goods and in the development of specifica-
tions for them.

While great progress has been mde in textiles as a result of
laboratory testing, it is desirable that the laboratory findings pre-
dictive of serviceability be substantiated by performance under condi;
tions of normal usage. A never-ceasing evaluation of laboratory
equipment and standards for its use are imperative if results of
laboratory testing are to be potential guides for the consumer.

Because slips are indiSpensable in most women's wardrobes, this
study was conducted to compare the predictive value of laboratory
testing on slips as a measure of serviceability with the performance

findings following actual wear. The effect of laundering alone with

laundering combined with wear were compared. In addition, home and
laboratory laundering procedures were compared in their effect on the
serviceability of slips.

"A Comparative Study of Four Brands of Women's Rayon Woven Slips
of Comparable Price“ was completed by Remus) in 1946. This study on
serviceability was planned as a continuation of the above study. By
making a wear study of one of the brands studied, it is possible to

analyse the findings of laboratory testing in relationship to actual

IOEJ'e

II. ‘REVIEN 0F LITERATURE

Even though women's slips of today offer a sharp contrast with
the silk ruffled petticoat of the early nineteen twenties, it was that
particular garment which first introduced research in consumer textile
goods, according to a report by O'Brien.(16) In spite of this early
.study's amusing complications with the changing fashion of the day, it
did establish a precedence for serviceability testing. Specifically
the purpose of this pettieoat study was to establish the relationship
between the amount of weighting and the wearing qualities of silk. A8
a result of this study came the first ruling on textiles from the
Federal Trade Commission and the first informative label which stated
that the term 'silk“ could not be used without being qualified by the
word 'weighted" if it contained more than ten per cent of materials
other than silk. This carefully planned project introduced practices
in setting up serviceability studies that are still considered to be of
merit. The fabric was made to specification with varying amounts of
metallic weighting, made into elaborate petticoats and worn by co-
operators.

Similarly, a recent study, "Service Tests on Blends of New and
Reclaimed Wool" (23) on wool skirts was carried out, again having the
fabric woven to specification with variation in the type and amount of

wool. Another comparable wear study, "Relative Serviceability of Three

Heights of Wool Serge" (11) has been conducted using three weights of
“wool serge for men's trousers. As in the early petticoat study, records
'were kept by the co-operators on the number of hours of wear, number
of‘launderings or dry cleanings, signs of*wear and other pertinent facts.
Serviceability studies have been evolved to compensate for the
inadequacy of laboratory testing for measuring the kind and amount of
‘wear which may be expected from.the article of apparel. .thhough no
standard techniques are established, certain recommendations can be made.
ticcording to Hayes and Rogers(8) a sufficient number of articles should
be allowed for laboratory test samples, as well as for unavoidable acci-
dents, the loss of articles and the failure of co-operatore to complete
the test. Further recommendations are to control as may variables as
possible. Examples of controlled variables include uniformity in the
style of garment, use of the same laundry or dry-cleaning establishment,
specification of the number of hours of wear, selection of co-operators
of the same occupational group in one geographical location. The gar-
ment used for wear studies must necessarily be of a styling and construc-
tion'which is reasonably acceptable to the co-operator. 'Wcar studies
should be completed within a relatively short period of time and so
planned as not to disrupt established routines if conducted in an
institution. However, if the garment is to be worn to the point that it
is ready to be discarded, the time required is a factor which highly
complicates such a project. The human factor of individual differences
in wear and care of clothing again supports the need for an ample number

of co-operators.

In an article entitled "Textile Fibers and Fabrics" (7) Mary Anna
Grimes presents some of the problems of sampling in that particular
field. Sampling of garments is often complex because the sise of the
sample is often necessarily smll. For this reason, it is imperative.
that good Judgment be used in sampling. She further points out that
successful sampling depends more upon sound textile knowledge and good
Judgment than upon the sise of the sample, the number of tests or know-
ledge of statistical methods.

It has been pointed out by A. G. Ashcroft in his discussion
"The Interpretation of Laboratory Tests as Quality Indices in Tcxtiles'cn
that future emphasis in research in the field of textiles will be on the
satisfactory performance of the product for the consumer rather than the
utilisation of existing stocks of raw materials. It would seem that
with greater emphasis on the end use of consumer goods and the importance
of satisfying humn needs,lthat there will be pressure on industry for
the development of new tests to measure length of service, as well as,
other satisfactions. He further points out that it 'is impossible to
standardise satisfactions because individuals place different values on
any given commodity - for some it may be style satisfaction while for
others it my be wear-life dependability. It is a challenge for indus-
try to develop test methods which will add to the knowledge of the
properties of tutorials and thus promote the development of new products
which give wider satisfaction adequacy for specific use and dependability
in performance.

A study reported by Ernest R. Kaswell on ”Near-Res istance of

.Apparel‘Textiles'(9) showed a comparison of the performance results of
fabrics in use on the Combat Course and the results obtained in the
laboratory. The fabrics tested were cotton twill, herringbone twill and
sateen. While uniforms were being subjected to the rigors of the Combat
Course the identical fabrics were being analyzed in the laboratory for
their physical properties and abrasion resistance as determined by the
M. I. T. and Taber abrasers. The worn uniforms were carefully checked
for direction and areas of wear. In comparing the results of the two
abrasion machines, it was found that fabrics were placed in substantially
the same order. Photomaorographs were made of the abraded specimens.
An almost perfect qualitative agreement existed behween the photomacro-
graphic predictions and the Combat Course experimental results. Sateen
back were best while herringbone twill wore worst. The major problem
encountered in this study in the use of laboratory abrasion testersjwas
the interpretation of results. It was found that reduction in tensile
strength was the best known criterion for measuring the extent of
abrasion damage. The study showed the value of photomcrographs in
measuring abrasion resistance qualitatively. However, precautions must
be taken in using fabrics of the same weight, thickness, yarn size and
fiber content if one is to obtain valid results.

A comprehensive study on 1,000 fabrics of various fiber content
was conducted as a cooperative regional project during the years 1933 -
1942. .L report from.this project entitled "Colorfastness of‘Women's and
Children's'Wearingahpparel Fabrics“(13) showed'the colorfastness charac-

teristics of these various fabrics. The objectives of the study were

' (l) to determine the colorfastness properties of representative textile

fabrics used for linking women's and children's wearing apparel and (2) to
ascertain how closely the present standard laboratory methods of testing
textile fabrics for cclorfastness performance predict the actual perfor-
mance during wear. The study showed a definite need for colorfastness
standards for all wearing-apparel fabrics and labeling to show the
consumer the kind of colorfastness which can be expected of a particular
fabric. The tests failed to predict actual wear performnce in many
cases. ‘The need for more rigorous tolerances in applying the tests and
in the interpreting of the results was indicated.'

Nentrup in "A Comparative Study of the Laboratory Performance with
the Service Performance of Silk and Rayon Slips"(15) found that after
one thousand two hundred hours of service and twenty-five launderings,
the appearance of the slip was still good. Yarn slippage was found in
rayon slips after the eleventh laundering. The greatest amount of wear
appeared on the shoulder straps, the raised areas where the shoulder
straps were inserted and at the darts in the upper part of the garment.
This wear is explained by abrasion caused in wearing and ironing. At
the end of the wear period, it was found that warp yarns had worn away
at the point where straps were attached and at darts under the arm.
Rayon slips showed shrinkage during the first seven launderings. Results
of shrinhge in hand laundering were comparable to results obtained by
using the Iaunder-Ometer. This study further showed that wear and
laundering had comparatively little effect on tensile strength although

laundering in launder-Ometer tended to affect it more than hand

laundering. Among laboratory tests used, it was found that those for
shrinkage, color-fastness, abrasion and yarn slippage seemed the most-
valuable in predicting the serviceability of a fabric in actual use.
Also, it was found the yarns in bias-cut slips showed less distortion
after wear and laundering than those in straight-cut slips. The breaking
of stitching in the hem of the bias-out slips however, was a disadvantage.

Dauner“) made a serviceability study of six qualities of rayon
woven slips of similar design which were worn by business and professional
women. In analyzing the results of the worn slips, it was found that a
slip of all viscose rayon gave better service than those of viscose and
acetate. A high yarn count and a balance in the warp and filling count
in the all-viscose fabrics contributed to a longer life expectancy of
those slips. It was also concluded that serviceability is likewise de-
pendent upon the type of seam, and stitching and fabric construction. In
this particular study there seemed to be a direct relationship between
the wear given a slip and the activity of the wearer, and to some extent,
with the sise of the wearer.

(20) was an exten-

"Autcpsy of Discarded Rayon Slips“ by Somripa
sive wear study of hundreds of rayon slips which varied in fiber content
and weave construction. Approximately three hundred office employees of
two large sail-order houses and one hundred twonty-five plant employees
wore slips for the wear study. All garments were examined at least three
times: after two washings, during the wearing period and when discarded.

It was found that factory and store workers were accustomed to making

numerous repairs and continued wearing their slips even in serious

conditions of deterioration. The discarded slips were classified into
various types and then rated in terms of deterioration. It was found
that raveling of raw edges is the major cuase for repairing and discar-
ding viscose rayon slips. It was estimated that covered edge seams
double the life of a fabric with a yarn count of 92 x 68, while locked
stitch seams in fabric of 104 x 72 yarn count give excellent performce.
Although satins and high—count taffetas show a high resistance to slip-
page when new, this characteristic decreases nterially with wear. It
was found that burned holes and holes near seams were the sajor causes
for discarding slips of acetate rayon. Wearers also reported difficulty
in ironing in spite of the fact that instructions on ironing had been
given. Slip fabric which combined acetate and viscose showed a greater
resistance to raveling of seams and a higher ironing temperature than
can be used on an all acetate fabric.

In an effort to conserve essential material and to prevent
depreciation through skimp cutting, the 0. P. A. in 1942 requested the
cooperation of the National Bureau of Standards to assist in the estab-
lishment of a comercial standard for women's slips made from woven
fabrics. This conference resulted in the establishment of minimum
measurements for slips of various styles. The standard became effective
in April, 1945. Producers who were willing to meet the sise and labeling
specifications in the nnufacture of women's slips accepted Commercial

Standard CSlZl-—45.(25)

III. MATERIALS AND METHODS

Only one style of one brand of slips was selected to be used in
this serviceability study, because of the variables in laundering and
individual differences in wear which are necessarily introduced in a
study of this nature. A nationally advertised slip made of French crepe
which retails at 3l.86 was chosen for the study. This particular slip
meets with the specifications of Women's Slip Sizes," Commercial
Standard CSlZl--45.(25) The slip was designed with double bodies in
both front and back and a four-gore alternating bias-cut skirt. See
Appendix, Plate 2, for design of the slip used. The front underarm
bodice sections were darted for better fit over the bust line. Edge
stitching around the top of the bodice and double rows of stitching for
the one fourth inch hem was done with a machine stitch of eighteen
stitches per inch. All slips were tearose in color.

In selecting individuals to wear the slips for this study, women
of similar occupations were chosen. Of the eighteen selected, one was
a dietitian, two were secretaries, seven were graduate students and the
retraining eight were faculty members. In order to get a variety of sizes
represented, six co-operators were selected whose sise corresponded to
the nanufacturer's sise 12 slip; likewise six co-operators were selected
to wear a size 14 and six to wear size 16 slips. Bust, waist and hip

measurements were taken in accordance with the mufacturer's directions

11
in order that proper fit of the garment be assured and not constitute a
complicating factor in wear.

Since it was impossible to purchase a large quantity of slips of
one style within the same brand from a retail store, it was necessary to
purchas; them directly from the factory. The eighteen co-operators'
measurements were'submitted to the manufacturing company. to insure proper
fit of the slips. The fit of the slip was carefully checked upon being
issued to the co-operators. Fifteen additional slips to be used as con-
trols and for testing were purchased - making a total of thirty-three
slips (eleven each in sizes 12, 14 and 16).

Six slips, (two in each size) were used to determine the initial
specifications of yarn count, weight per square yard, wet and dry.
breaking strength, and yarn analysis consisting of denier, number of
filaments per yarn and number of twists per inch. Three slips repre-
senting each size were retained as controls.

Six slips were used to determine the effect of laundering. Six
of the eighteen slips worn by co-operators were also laundered in the
laboratory. All worn slips were returned to the laboratory following
the fifth, tenth, twentieth and thirtieth launderings 'in order that the
investigator could determine yarn count, dimensional change and signs of
wear. Slips which were laundered only, were similarly examined. Two1ve
of the eighteen co-opcrators laundered their own slips in the home
according to specified directions. See Appendix for laundry instructions.
Originally the study was to terminate at the end of one thousand hours»

of wear and forty launderings, but the period was shortened because some

12
of the slips were ready to be discarded at the end of seven hundred fifty
hours of wear and after thirty launderings. Each co-operator was asked
to wear the slip approximately twenty-five hours between launderings and
to keep a record of the number of launderings and hours of wear. See
Appendix for type of record kept.

At the end of the thirtieth laundering, the co-operators returned
their slips to the laboratory for final physical testing and subjective
analysis of wear. Weight per square yard, breaking strength, yarn count,
dimensional change and evidences of wear were recorded. In addition to
the co-operators' slips, the six which were laboratory laundered, but not
worn, were similarly tested and examined.

Physical testing procedures used in fiber, yarn and fabric analy-

sis, as well as inspection methods are described in the following

paragraphs .

Fiber Content: Microscopic and chemical analysis for fiber identifica-

 

tion was made. From the reaction of the warp yarns in acetone, it was
concluded the type of rayon used for the warp yarns was acetate. Appli-
cation of Texchrome, a dye product which reacts with a characteristic
color to various fiber types, turned the filling yarns blue; therefore
they were identified as cuprammonium according to the accompanying color-
fiber identification chart. Identification for both warp and filling
yarns was verified by microscopic analysis. See Plate 1 in Appendix for

fabric used in slips.

Yarn Analysis 2 An Alfred Suter Twist Tester was used to determine the

13
number of twists per inch. The procedure followed was adapted from.a
study by Platt.(17) .a ten inch gauge length was used for both warp and
filling yarns. The yarn was raveled from.the fabric in such a manner as
not to alter twist. It was securely clamped in place and a three gram
deflection load lowered upon the yarn before clamping the opposite end
to insure against undue tension. The load was lifted after the yarn was
securely clamped and untwisted and then retwisted until it broke. The
number of turns was recorded in each case. This data was substituted

in the following formula:

in'which:

z
I

number of turns to twist to rupture

‘ number of turns to untwist and retwist to rupture

2."
H
I

T 3 total number of turns in yarn

t turns per inch

1 length of yarn used.

For each of the six original slips tested, an average of ten
determinations was used in reporting the twist per inch for the warp and
filling yarns.

The Universal Yarn Numbering Balance was used to determine denier

in both warp and filling yarns. The required length for each determina-

tion was ninety centimeters by the metal ruler devised for use with this

l4
balance. The weight in denier was read directly from the balance dial
indicating the number of .05 grams in four hundred fifty meters of yarn.
Three determinations were made on each warp and filling yarns respectively
from each of the six slips used for original testing.

Due to the high twist in the filling yarns, a correction was
necessary. .Denier is determined when there is no twist present. A
method recommended by the United States Testing Company“) was used in
mking the correction in the highly twisted filling yarn. The Suter
Twist Tester was used to determine the per cent of elongation due to
twist take-up. The correction in denier was mde as follows:

Denier sise ' x (100% - % elongation) I Corrected
(In twisted state) Denier

Very slight twist in the warp yarn made it unnecessary to correct
the denier.

The number of filaments per yarn was determined by pinning a yarn
on a piece of black velvet and using a pick to separate and place fila-
ments in groups of five. Placing a pin behind each group facilitated

counting. Three counts were mde each on warp and filling yarns.

2213 Analysis: The procedure for determining the number of yarns per
inch was determined in accordance with A. S. T. L“) A Suter Micrometer
was used in counting the number of warp yarns per inch in five places
selected at random on the garment. Similarly, the number of filling
yarns per inch was counted. The determinations recorded are an average
of five counts for warp and filling of each slip. Because there were no

selvages to help determine warp and filling yarns, it was assumed the

16
higher count indicated warp yarns and the lower count, the filling yarns.

These assumptions are in agreement with the characteristics of French
crepe construction.

Yarn count determinations were likewise made on the slips which
were worn and those being used as laundry controls after the fifth,
tenth, hentieth and thirtieth launderings.

Weight per square yard was determined according to the method
given in A. S. T. 11.“) Five two-inch squares were cut at random from
six new, six laundered and unworn, and six laundered and worn slips.
The bone dry weight of the five specimens was obtained by drying them
in a conditioning oven for one and one half hours and cooling for at
least one half hour in a desiccator containing CaCl. The specimens were
weighed on an analytical balance until the weight was constant to within
.003 grams. The following formula from Lomaxuo) was used in calculating
weight per square yard:

45.71 x grams
Eff-ea in square inches :- ounces per square yard

The raveled-strip method according to a. S. T. lb“) was used in
determining breaking strength. Two sets of five specimens were cut, one
set for warp breaking strength having the longer dimension parallel to
the warp yarns and the other set for filling breaking strength, having
the longer dimension parallel to the filling yarn. No two specimens for
warp breaking strength contained the same warp yarns, or for filling
breaking strength the same filling yarns. Each strip was cut one and one

fourth inches wide and six inches long and by taking approximately the

16
same number of yarns from each side of the strip, it'was' raveled to one
inch in width. The breaking strength was tested when the strips were
both dry and wet.

Because a conditioning room was not available, dry strips were
conditioned in the following manner. Specimens were conditioned in a
desiccator where an approximate temperature of 77°F and humidity of 66
per cent was mintained through the use of a 36 per cent H2804 solution.
The raveled dry strips were allowed to condition for a period of at
least twelve hours before being broken in a Scott-tester.

Wet breaking strips were prepared by allowing them to stand in
tap water at room temperature for a period of two hours. One strip at
a time was removed from the water and broken in less than one minute
from the time they were removed.

In order to compare wear in various areas \of the slips which were
worn, groups of five strips each were taken from the skirt front, skirt

back, waist-line areas in both front and back and sides. See cutting

charts, Plates 3 and 4, in Appendix for locations of areas tested.

Laundry Procedure: A laundry procedure used by Lyle and Black in their
study "The Effect of Wringing upon Tensile Strength of Rayon Fabrics"(12)
was modified for the laundering of the six slips held as controls and
the six worn by co-operators. A machine was used in washing because
uniform agitation was desired for all slips laboratory laundered. It
was found that the three minute washing period as used by Lyle and Black

in laundering rayons was not a long enough period to remove soil from

17
slips which had been worn. It was necessary to apply soap solution (one
cup Lux Flakes and one half cup hot water) with a small brush on seam
lines to loosen soil and to increase the washing period from three to six
minutes.

Sixteen liters of 37.7 degrees 1' 1 degree a were poured into a
portable Baby Grands washer. One fourth cup of Calgon was used to soften
the water and two cups of Lux Flakes used to make a standing suds of
about twa inches. The slips (after being brushed with soap solution on
seam lines) were placed in the washer and allowed to wash for six minutes
after which time they were gently squeezed and rinsed for We minutes in
softened water of the same temperature. Again the slips were squeezed
and rinsed in the same manner.

Following the washing, each slip was rolled in a Turkish towel
and allowed to stand at least one half hour before ironing.

The slips were ironed on the wrong side in direction of the grain.
The double yokes were ironed first and then the gored sections. The
ironing temperature was kept within the range of 225-2750F. Because the
double yoke and the seams remained damp, it was found most satisfactory
to finish ironing these sections on the right side. Slips were allowed
to dry thoroughly before taking yarn count or measurements.

The hand laundry procedure suggested for use of the co-operatcrs
was in accordance with directions by the manufacturing company which

accompanied the slips and is fully described in the Appendix.

Measurements: To insure uniform measurements in testing for dimensional

 

18
change, all slips to be laundered were placed on padded commercial dress
ferns and points of measurement were established for taking both hori-
sontal and vertical measurements. Markings for horizontal measurements
were located at the bust, waist and hips. Eight points for vertical
measurement were established at center front, center back, midway of side
panels and at adjoining seam lines. Points of measurements were mrked
by dots of indelible ink. See sketches in Appendix, Plate 2, for loca-
tions of lines of measurement.

Measurements were taken when the slips were new and following the
fifth, tenth, twwtieth and thirtieth launderings. The procedure in
taking measurements consisted of placing the slip over the end of the
ironing board, pinning a tape line connecting the points established for

measurements. Measurements were recorded to the nearest one tenth inch.

Methods .93. Samplin s In planning areas to be used for physical testing,
the sise 12 slip (front, back and sides) was drawn to the scale of one
fourth inch to one inch. From this diagram, cutting charts of the areas
to be tested were nude. The cutting plans for laundered slips were
identical to the plans for new slips with the exception that twice as
nny strips were out. See Appendix for cutting charts.

The specimens for breaking strength which were one and one fourth
inches wide and six inches long were charted for warp and filling direc-
tions respectively. It will be noted that a greater number of breaking
strength determinations were planned for slips which were worn and those

which were laundered only than for new slips. This was done in order to

 

 

19

compare loss in strength due to laundering and wear in the areas of
front skirt, back skirt, front waist, back'waist and the left and right
sides. Because it was impossible to test both warp and filling direc-
tions at the same location of the slip, it was necessary to divide the
worn slips into two groups and alternate warp and filling specimens in
the area to be tested.

Two specimens, one inch by fifteen inches, were charted parallel to
‘warp and filling yarns respectively for the purpose of determining denier
and twist in the new slips. The five weight squares, two inches by two
inches, were located at different areas in all slips tested. Breaking
strength and weight per square yard were planned for slips which were
new, laundered only and laundered and'worns'while areas were charted only
in new slips for denier and twist.

It was found necessary to draw yarns in order to out accurately,

the specimens.

Visual Inspection: Periodic inspection included examination of all of

 

the slips in the study. Yarn slippage was detected by placing the slip
over a dissecting cabinet and carefully examining the entire slip.
Signs of abrasion, holes, seam slippage and color change were also
noted. Comments as to breaking of straps and rips were recorded. it
the end of the thirty launderings, after the final inspection had been
' made, the slips were subjectively scored for performance as indicated
by visual signs of wear. An arbitrary rating was devised for purposes

of comparison. .A positive score was assigned to each type and degree of

wear as follows:

Hole - --------

Abrasion - - -
Yarn Slippage
'Wear in Straps

Color Change -

By such rating, a perfect score was fifteen, while the lowest

possible score was zero.

0 to 5
0 to 4
O to 3
0 to 2

0 to l

20

IV. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS

A. Analysis 2331:: Original Fabrics

An analysis of the results of physical testing of the new fabric
with that of the fabric after laundering only and laundering combined
'with'wear is discussed in this section. .a comparison of initial pro-
perties with those same properties at the end of the wear study serves
as a basis for Judging the performance value of this fabric and the value
of laboratory testing as predictive of wear expectancy. Physical tests
are supplemented by a subjective analysis of the slips and a relationship
established. A summary of the initial properties of the fabric, namely,
yarn analysis (consisting of denier, filament count and twist) and fabric
analysis including weight per square yard, yarn count and breaking
strength is shown on Table 1. Data for dimensional change, yarn count,
weight per square yard and breaking strength of unworn laundered and worn
laundered slips are shown in Table 2. It will be noted that the original
plan included twolve slips to be worn and laundered in the home; but
during the wearing period one of the slips was lost, so complete results

are recorded for only eleven slips.

Fiber Content: Upon chemical and microscopic analysis of the fiber, the

 

warp was found to be acetate rayon and the filling to be cuprammonium

rayon. Of the thirty-three slips purchased, all but four were made of

22

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24

delustered rayon. Other than appearance, no differences were evident.

m 2 Ounces £23333: 3352’ Calculations of the bone-dry weight
of the new fabric specimens showed a range of 2.54 to 2.67 ounces per
square yard'with an average of 2.61 ounces. Rann(18) in her study found
an average of 2.82 ounces per square yard for the crops in the same brand

or .lipe

Yarn £2922: Yarn count in the warp of the six new slips averaged 156
yarns per inch and showed practically no variation. The filling yarn
count ranged from 104 to 107 with an average of 105 yarns per inch. The
study done by Hanna’s) showed 158 and 109 yarn count respectively for
warp and filling for the same brand of slip as used in this study. Simi-
larly, Crawford“) found a ratio of 1.5 warp yarns to 1.0 filling in the

crepes of her study.

Yarn Anal is: Analysis of yarn included denier, filament count and

 

number of twists per inch. The denier of the warp yarns was found to

be 75.45 while the denier of the filling yarns averaged 74.02. Results
show the an. of the warp and ruling yarns to be very balanced. In
checking with the New Additions in American Rayon Denier and Filament
Table as of September, 1946,04) a corresponding denier of seventy-five
and sixty filaments is found to be made in both acetate and cuprammonium
yarns. Rannua) found an average of 75.2 for warp denier and 78.0 for
filling denier.

Filament count in the yarns was found to be highly consistent

25
within each slip. However, in checking filament count in the acetate
rayon yarns in the warp, two slips had an average filament count of fifty.
These, likewise, are listed under yarns produced by the acetate process.
Filament count in the cupramonimn filling yarns was likewise highly
consistent. The count was sixty in every case with exception of two,
which were 59.7. Hanna’s) found a filament count of twenty-six for the
warp yarns and a filling count of fifty-three. A comparison of filament
count shows that a higher quality yarn was available in the fall of 1946
than was available in the fall of 1945. This is substantiated in the
comparative breaking strength results.

'In examining the twist of the warp yarns, it was found that the
number of twists per inch average 4.24 and the average for the filling
yarns was 25.28. The warp had a S twist, while filling had a z twist.

In the study by Kansas) the twist was found to be somewhat lower in

both sets of yarns; the direction of twist being the same. According

to studies reported by Roseberryp'g) the filling breaking strength
increases with twist to a certain point and then decreases with additional

“iflt e

Breakfl Strggh: Dry warp breaking strength averaged 29.6 pounds and

showed a standard deviation of 1.06. When wet, the warp strength showed
a decrease of 55.4 per cent. The strength of the warp when wet averaged
13.2 pounds and the standard deviation was 1.1. Rannua) found warp
breaking strength to be 20.5 pounds when dry and 9.7 when wet.

Breaking strength for the cuprammonium rayon filling yarns when

 

”-41.."utlhltfl .I ‘1!

 

26
dry averaged 27.6 pounds and had a standard deviation of .72. The
filling strength showed a decrease of 50 per cent when wet averaging
13.8 pounds and having a standard deviation of .73. Rann's study showed
an average of 24.2 pounds for dry filling breaking strength and 8.3
pounds when wet.

The very close relationship of breaking strength between the warp
and filling yarns shows the fabric in this study to be very well balanced
in strength. Table 3 shows a summary of all breaking strength averages.
The fact that there was lower breaking strength for both warp and filling
yarns when wet or dry in Rann's study may be accounted for by the fact
that her study was conducted during a post-war period at which time
standard qualities of yarn were not yet available. Rannue) found a
lower filament count in the warp yarns which according to Tait<21) would
also result in lower breaking strength. He states that the number of
filaments per yarn directly affects breaking strength; that is, as the
number of filaments increases, the breaking strength increases. The two

of the six slips studied which had a lower filament count showed a lower

breaking strength in relationship to the other four.

B. mlzgis of Fabrics Which Were laundered Only

 

 

 

 

Six of the slips which were us ed as laboratory controls were
analyzed after thirty launderings for the purpose of determining the
effect of laundering upon breaking strength, weight per square yard,
yarn count and dimensional change. These slips were also examined‘after

the fifth, tenth and twantieth launderings to determine progressive

27

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28

change in yarn count, dimensional change and observable signs of wear.

It was found that the warp breaking strength after the thirtieth
laundering when dry was 25.6 pounds as. compared with 29.6 pounds than
the fabric was new: thus resulting in a 13.5 per cent less. When wet,
the warp breaking strength averaged 11.2 pounds as compared with 13.2
pounds when new; a loss of 15.2 per cent. Filling breaking strength
(dry) showed a smller per cent of loss due to laundering. Similarly
the strength 'of filling yarns showed a loss of 5.1 per cent which is
less than half than that occurring in the warp. The average was 26.2
pounds as compared with 27.6 pounds when new. The filling yarns when
wet showed no loss of strength in laundering 3 the filling breaking
strength being 13.8 pounds when new as well as after thirty launderings.
In this study, a decrease in strength is found while the results from
Rann's study show an increase in strength following thirty launderings.
This difference my be accounted for , in part, by the different laun-
dering procedure: a harsher and longer washing period being used in this
study as compared to hand laundering in the preceding one. According to
Textile Iorld's Synthetic Table, cuprammonium rayon has a breaking
strength of 1.7 to 2.3 per denier, while acetate has a tenacity of 1.25
to 1.5 per denier. In examining Table 2, it will be seen that the
filling yarns which were of cuprumonitm maintained a higher breaking
strength than the warp yarns of acetate. Because the denier of the two
sets of yarns is nearly the same, the difference can no doubt be ex-
plained by inherent differences in the two fibers when wet and dry.

After the thirtieth laundering, the weight of the fabric was found

29
to have increased by .10 ounces per square yard. This is due to shrinkage
'which increases the number of warp and filling yarns per inch.

The greatest increase in warp yarn count occurred within the first
five launderings; total increase in count after thirty launderings being
only three yarns per inch. Although the increase in filling yarn count
‘was somewhat greater than in warp yarns, the greatest increase again
occurred within the first five launderings. After thirty launderings,
filling yarns increased from.105 to 110 yarns per inch.

The laundered slips showed progressive shrinkage in length through-
out the laundering period. ‘Within the first five launderings, the slips
shrank an average of 3.9 per cent or approximately 1.3 inches. After
the thirtieth laundering, the shrinkage per cent averaged five or 1.6
inches. In other words, about 80 per cent of the shrinkage occurred in
the first five launderings. While shrinkage in width was greatest
during the first five launderings, there was at first a decline, then
rise and then a downward trend or shrinkage in width. This was un-
doubtedly due to the fact that the garment was stretched more in width
in ironing than in length. Following the fifth laundering the shrinkage
in'width was 3.3 per cent while after the thirtieth laundering, it
decreased to 1.5 per cent.

Upon examining the slips subjectively for signs of wear, it was
found that the slips were still in excellent condition after thirty
launderings. In each slip, however, the double bodice showed signs of
wear where the straps were inserted. In one case, there was a tiny hole

in that area. In two slips, a small amount of yarn slippage was noted

30
and in one slip there were twa tiny holes in the center back panel.
Perhaps the most obvious change due to laundering was the loss of color.
However, it is thought that this is of less importance than other quali-
ties desirable in slip serviceability. See Plate 1 in Appendix for

change in color due to laundering.

C. Analysis of Fabrics After Wear and Thirty launderings

 

 

In order to compare and contrast the differences which occur from
controlled laboratory and home laundering, all slips which were worn will
be discussed in the following paragraphs.

Slips which were unworn and laboratory laundered showed less
average loss in strength than those which had been worn and laundered.
By examining Charts 1 and 2 it is possible to compare the per cent less
in strength in relationship to the area from which the breaking strength
strips were cut. The slips which were worn and laboratory laundered
showed that the greatest loss in warp strength occurred in the side
sections, while the strips taken from the waist showed the least loss of
strength. The filling yarns showed the greatest loss of strength in
the side and back waist sections; the least loss in areas taken from the
skirt front.

In comparing the worn laboratory laundered slips with home laun-
dered slips it is found that breaking strength averaged higher for worn
laboratory laundered slips. Refer to Chart 3.

Examination of Chart 4 shows the relative defferences in filling

breaking strength of the worn slips laundered under the two different

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33
conditions. In every case with the exception of the back waist area,
a greater loss is shown in the slips which were laundered by the co-
operators. The greatest loss of filling strength occurred in the side
sections in both methods of laundering.

Of all of the slips worn, laundered in both home and laboratory,
loss of strength in the warp yarns was greatest in the back waist section,
while strips cut from.the side waist were second in their loss of strength.
The front and back sections showed very similar strength, while the front
'waist section showed the least loss of strength in warp yarns. See Chart
5 for relative loss of warp strength of all slips which were worn.

Chart 6 shows the relative difference of breaking strength in
filling yarns of all worn slips. The side areas show the greatest loss
in strength, the front waist second, front and back skirt showing the
least loss of strength. The fact that in both warp and filling direc-
tions, there is greater loss in strength in areas tested from.the side
waist is probably due to the effect of perspiration by direct contact
with the body and greater strain of fabric in this particular area.

Chart 7 shows there is a close relationship in strength between
slips which were laundered only and those which were worn and laboratory
laundered. 'lbrn slips, laundered in the laboratory and home, showed a
greater variance. The relative loss of breaking strength would indicate
that laundering in the laboratory is much less strenuous than home
laundering. Table 4, which shows the significant differences of the

means in breaking strength, verifies the statement made above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     

 

 

 

  

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41
Table 4

Significant Differences of Means of Breaking Strength

Unworn, laboratory A Worn, laboratory
laundered with Worn, laundered with Worn,
laboratory laundered home laundered

Warp-dry 2.35, significant 7.29, highly significant
Warp-wet 6.66, highly significant .859, not significant

Filling-dry 1.53, not significant ' 6.58, highly significant
Filling-wet 7.29, highly significant 7.48, highly significant

The means of breaking strength of laboratory laundered slips and
worn laboratory laundered slips were shown to be significantly different.
The means of worn laboratory laundered and home laundered slips are found
to be even more different by comparison. There is greater consistency in
the breaking strength averages in the worn laboratory laundered slips
than in those which were laundered by the co-cperators at home. This may
indicate that laundering procedure is responsible for this difference.
These differences are shown in the standard deviations which appear in
the Appendix, Tables 11 - 14. The results of breaking strength of two
slips worn by co-operators who were quite active in the nursery school
work were extremely low. Visual examination showed the slips to be
extremely worn indicating that the activity of the person, as well as
the laundering procedure used, constitute factors of wear.

The slips which were worn and laboratory laundered showed an
increase of .18 ounces per square yard over those which were home laun-

dered. Greater shrinkage in these slips no doubt explains the increased

42
‘weight.

Charts 8 and 9 (Dimensional change and change in yarn count) show
the slips which were worn and laundered in the laboratory to have shrunk
the most and to have the greatest increase in yarn count at the end of
the study. The bias cut of the slip made accurate measurements very
difficult and the results inconsistent. It is thought, however, that the
laboratory ironing procedure followed is largely responsible for the
.greater dimensional change in those slips. Very slight pressure was used
and the ironing strokes were consistently made in direction of the grain
to prevent stretching. In examining slips which had been laundered by
the co-operators it was noted that, in some cases, too hot an iron had
been used and the slips were ironed crosswise rather than in the direc-
tion of the grain of the cloth. Inasmuch as there was less change in
width, length and yarn count, it is thought that perhaps greater pressure
with a hotter iron and ironing on the bias grain could account for the
fabric showing a less marked degree of dimensional change. Results of
dimensional change showed the fabric to be very unstable and shrinkage is
not due alone to laundering procedure. .According to Clayton,(z) in some
rayons, no matter how carefully the washing method is standardized, a
'wide variation of results will be obtained by the same and different
persons. He states that this condition may be explained by the way the
yarns are woven into the cloth and the use of stabilizing agents have a
tendency to retard shrinkage or stretchage until progressively removed
by succeeding washings. The high twist in the filling yarns, no doubt,

explains shrinkage in that set of yarns. This too, is evidenced by the

43

change in yarn count.

D. Subjective Analysis of Worn Slips

 

Inspection records were kept by the investigator for each slip.
See Appendix for type of record used. Before slips were issued, each
co-operator was asked to try the slip on in order that the investigator
might check the fit. In six cases, it was found that the slips were
excessively large through the bust line. However, after laundering, the
fabric shrank enough to overcome this fitting problem. It was necessary
to put one inch hens in three of the slips because they were too long.
In six slips, straps were shortened to take care of the excess length,
but after the first few launderings, the slips had shrunk sufficiently in
length so that the straps were released to their original position. In
two cases, the slips were too short, attributable to the fact that one of
the co-operators was quite tall and the other was the largest in her
group, as well as being tall. Most of the hemlines were found to hang
unevenly due to the bias cut. Practically all of the slips fitted very
smoothly and the majority of the co-operators expressed satisfaction in
the comfort of the slip. The most unsatisfactory feature was the re-
tention of soil on seams and hemlines which was found to be a problem
in laundering in both the laboratory and the home. Most of worn slips
showed considerable yarn slippage in the warp directions. ‘

Comments most frequently recorded by co-operators during the
period of wear concerned the, great amount of shrinkage, signs of wear

at top edge of the bodice and underarms, and the wear of straps. Broken

44
straps were also noted. Others commented to the effect that ironing was
responsible for the deterioration in their slips. Some commented on the
excellent fit of the garment.

Among the first evidences of wear found by the investigator was
abrasion on the inside section of the bodice where the straps joined the
slip. TIelve of the seventeen slips showed abrasion after only five
launderings. 0f the five which did not show abrasion in this area, four
'were laboratory laundered. The areas at which the straps were inserted
in the bodice showed progressive wear. By the end of this study, with-
one exception, all slips showed either holes or deterioration of warp
yarns. Similarly, Dauner(6) found in her study that warp yarns wore ,‘ *
away after a few hundred hours of wear. All of the slips which were
laundered by the co-operators showed a more marked degree of wear in
the warp yarns at points where straps were inserted than did those which
‘were laundered in the laboratory by the investigator. In addition to
extreme wear at points where straps were inserted in the bodice, severe
'wear'was noted under the arms and across the back. Frequently, it was
found that the under section of the double bodice had been stretched by
ironing from only one side. ‘As a result, the edge which was stretched
beyond the seam.line frequently wore into slash-like holes. This was
not characteristic of those laundered in the laboratory because of the
fact that the investigator ironed the double bodice on both sides in
order to remove the excess dampness. This tended to equalize stretchage.
Holes sometimes appeared along seam.1ines but this was undoubtedly due

to increased pressure and heat when required to dry out the several

45
thicknesses of fabric at the seams. Worn areas of slips are charted on

Plate 6 in Appendix. According to Mentrupus)

a study completed by
Adella E. Ganter on cotton night gowns showed extreme wear in the same
areas as reported in this study. Breaks in the double stitched hem was
characteristic of slips which were worn. More breaks occurred in the
center front panel than any other sections'walking and sitting probably
causing more strain in this area. Dauner,(6) similarly, found breaks
in the bias slips in her wear study.

Slips which were laundered in the laboratory were lighter in
color by comparison than those which were laundered by the co-operators.
The‘washing period of six minutes which was used in the laboratory
probablywwas longer than that used in home,laundering, thus accounting
for a greater loss in color. Soil on the zigzag stitched seam.11nes and
inside hemline seemed more or less characteristic of most of the slips
'worn. In filamen's Dresses and Slips,.a Buying Guide,'(24) U. S. D..L.
Bulletin, No. 1851, zigzag stitching is described as being strong, but
also characterized as retaining soil which can hardly be removed without
rubbing, which eventually wears and breaks the stitching. The strength
of this seam was borne out by this study as in only one case did the
seanlbreak.

In order to determine the relationship of wear and breaking
strength in the present study, a final subjective rating of each slip
for type and degree of wear was made. This score was correlated with
the breaking strength total for that particular slip. The subjective

scores and breaking strength totals showed a rank correlation coefficient

46
of .493 which is not particularly high, yet it does show a relationship
between the two variables. In other words, the slips which appear badly
'worn tend to have lower breaking strength totals than those which do not
show a marked degree of wear. In the examination of individual scores,
it was found that a greater relationship existed between the two variables
when the slip was extremely worn. In reporting a wear study on rayon
slips, Sommaripa(2o) found that tensile strength had no forecast value
because the study showed that garments with holes near the seams still
retained a high breaking strength.

Co-operators' wearing records showed that individuals varied in
the total hours of wear from.672 to 929 hours. A.rank correlation
coefficient analysis was made between the variables of total hours of
wear and the breaking strength total for each slip worn. It was found
that there'was a rank correlation coefficient of only .086 for slips
which were laundered in the laboratory; in other words, there was prac-
tically no relationship of hours worn and breaking strength results.
However, in similarly analyzing slips which were worn and laundered at
home, a rank correlation coefficient of .409 was found which does
evidence a relationship between the two variables. .L much greater
variation in total hours of wear and also in breaking strength totals
was found'within the group of home laundered slips as compared with
slips laundered in the laboratory. This may partially explain the

greater correlation. See Table 5 for data on co-operators' slips.

47

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V. CONCLUS IONS

An analysis of the data of the initial properties of the yarn and
fabric in this study when compared with the fabric used in the same brand
of slips of the previous year reflects an improved quality. This is
substantiated by the performance test results following laundering and
wear.

In this particular study, it was found that slips which were worn
and laundered in the laboratory did not show less in breaking strength or
apparent signs of wear to the same extent as slips which were worn and
laundered in the home by the co-operators. Thus, it may be concluded-
that deterioration in the slips studied was, in part, due to a difference
in the laundering procedure practiced by the various co-operators. Too
high an ironing temperature was evidenced by a shiny surface, abrasion
and holes in the fabric in many of the slips laundered by them.

There was an appreciable loss in warp breaking strength for the
unworn laundered slips, and e. slightly greater percentage loss for the
worn, laboratory laundered slips. However, the slips laundered by the
co-cperators showed approximately twice as great a loss. Although there
was not an extremely high relationship betvmen visual signs of wear and
loss in breaking strength, a correlation did exist. Because of the fact
that greatest deterioration occurred in the bodice or near the seams, it

was 'not possible to secure samples for testing from those areas. If that

49
had been possible, there would undoubtedly have been a higher correlation
betwaen apparent signs of wear and loss in breaking strength. It may
further be concluded that fabric deterioration in the most severely worn
areas my be largely attributed to the method of ironing. From obser-
vations made in this study, it would seem advisable that double fabric
sections should be ironed on both sides to equalize stretching and to
prevent undue wear on one side.

The warp yarns of acetate rayon not only showed greater deteriora-
tion on visual examination, but warp breaking strength also showed a
corresponding greater loss in strength than did the filling yarns of
cuprammonium rayon.

Perspiration and strain in wear are likewise contributing factors
to a garment-'3 deterioration. Areas of the slips which were exposed
directly to the body, namely, the waist back and side waist areas, showed
a greater loss in breaking strength than did other sections. It was
found that the slips which were worn by co-operators who were extremely
active showed not only much lower results in breaking strength, but also
more appreciable signs of wear in comparison with. the other slips tested
and enmined. Because the slips showed such a wide range of deterioration
at the end of the wear period, it is not possible to make any prediction
as to total wear expectancy. Some slips were ready to be discarded,
while a few were. in sufficiently good condition that they might be worn
for a limited period. I

There was wide variation in dimensional change in slips laundered

both at home and in the laboratory. The bias cut in the slip was perhaps

50
largely responsible for this variation. Greater dimensional change in
the slips which were laundered in the laboratory is probably due to the
fact that the co-operators used a higher ironing temperature in the
direction of the bias grain thus partially restoring the garment to its
original measurements. The high twist in the filling yarns probably
accounts for greater shrinkage in the filling direction of all slips.
However, there is a great need for stabilization in certain rayon crepes
to prevent undue shrinkage or-stretchage if garments of such fabrics are
to need consumer satisfaction.

Satisfaction was expressed by all of the co-operators as to the
styling and fit of this garment. It is accurately cut to meet cozmercial
standards and the excellence of seam construction is evidenced by the
fact that of seventeen slips examined, there was only one broken seam.
However, this construction feature is somewhat minimized by the fact
that the zigzag stitching soiled readily and retained soil persistently.

In conducting a wear study, it is imperative to have a large
number of samples because of the many variables of, wear and care which
are introduced. It would have been desirable to have had a greater
number of co-operators, for the wear expectancy of the slips at the
termination of the study varied widely between the individuals who wore
them. However, the factors of time and cost are necessarily limiting
factors in planning any study. A continuation of this study might be
so devised as to have the same individual alternately wear two or more
slips so as to provide withdrawl of slips at such intervals as to

measure the rate of deterioration and total wear expectancy.

51

The investigator considers, after an analysis of the data from
the laboratory tests for the initial properties of the fabric, that they
are indicative of serviceability to a limited degree but cannot be used
independently as a valid standard for predicting performance in use.
However, when supplemented by data from worn garments similarly tested,
the laboratory data constitutes a reliable basis for Judgment of a given
fabric, for comparison of two or more quality grades or different types
of fabrics for a specified end use.

'While a wear study involves a great deal of effort on the part
of both the investigator and co-operators, it is believed it has signi-
ficant merit in measuring actual wear due to perspiration strain,
abrasion, soil and laundering which cannot be duplicated in laboratory

testing alone.

VI. SUMMARY

A. wear study of one brand of women's rayon slips was carried out
as a continuation of a laboratory study of slips completed by Rann in
1946. Thirty-three slips of one style and brand were purchased directly
from the factory. Co-operators of similar occupations, representing
sizes 12, 14 and 16 were asked to wear the slips. Eighteen of the slips
were worn, twelve of which were laundered in the home, and the. other six
laundered in the laboratory under controlled conditions. Six additional
unworn slips were laundered in the laboratory and six others were us ed
to establish initial properties; three were retained as controls. Slips
which were issued to co-operators were laundered thirty times and worn
approximately seven hundred fifty hours. The period of wear between
launderings was approximately twenty-five hours. Co-operators were asked
to follow a specified laundering procedure and at the end of the fifth,
tenth, tIcntieth and thirtieth launderings they were asked to return
their slips to the laboratory for examination for signs of wear, change
in yarn count and dimensions.

Fiber, yarn and fabric analysis were made on the new slips.
Following the seven hundred fifty hour wear period, tthose slips as well
as those which were unworn and laundered were examined and scored for
degree'of wear and measured for dimensional change. Tests consisting

of breaking strength and weight per square yard were made to determine .

53
changes in strength and weight fOIIOWing laundering only, and wear
combined with laundering.

The four-gore alternating bias-cut slip was very satisfactory
in comfort and fit; however, the cut of the slips did produce an uneven
hemline. Other disadvantages were the breaking of stitches in the hem-
line and the affinity for soil on the zigzagged stitched seams.

Consistent results were found in yarn count, breaking strength,
and denier within this group of slips studied. There was some variation
in the number of twists per inch in the warp yarns. In checking denier
and filament, it was found that there was consistency within each slip,
but the nwmber of filaments in warp yarns varied in two of the slips
tested. Twentyenine of the slips were of delustered French crepe, while
four were of lustrous crepe.

An increase in yarn count was progressive through the tenth
laundering, and in some cases through the twentieth, and then it tended
to stabilize or decrease. There was also a corresponding increase in
the weight per square yard when tested after the thirtieth laundering.
The‘warp breaking strength loss for unworn laboratory laundered, worn
laboratory laundered and worn home laundered was respectively 13.5, 14.9
and 27 per cent. Correspondingly, the per cent less in the filling was
5.1, 6.5 and 14.1.

Visual examination of the unworn laundered slips showed little
evidence of wear. The worn slips, however, showed much greater signs
of deterioration; in fact, a few slips which had been laundered by the

co-operators were ready to be discarded. The greatest deterioration was

54

observed on the inside double edge bodice top along the seam line in the

back and underarm sections particularly. Distortion of the fabric also

resulted from the slippage of warp yarns in the areas of strain and wear.
A few straps were broken in the process of wear.

Results from breaking strength tests showed greatest loss in
strength in fabric taken from side and back waist sections of the worn

slips which were areas directly in contact with the body.

LITERATURE C IT ED

(1)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

(8)

(9)

(10)

(11)

LITERATURE C IT ED

(Ashcroft, A. G. The interpretation of laboratory tests as quality
indices in textiles. American Dyestuff Reporter 53 (Nov. 20,
1944), pp. 490-491.

 

Clayton, Howard D. The elimination of chaos from shrinkage testing.
(Proceedings of the.Am..Assoc. of Textile Chemists and
Colorists) American Dyestuff Reporter S5 (July 29, 1946),

p. 3110

Committee D-13. Standards on Textile materials. Philadelphia:
American Society for Testing materials (1946), p. 85, p. 87.

Course Text. Refresher Course in Textiles and Testing. Hoboken,
New Jersey: United States Testing Company, Inc. (Summer, 1945).

Crawford, Madelyn. Serviceability of certain rayon fabrics as
determined by laboratory tests. (Unpublished thesis, Kansas
State College of.Agricu1ture and.Applied Science, 1938).

Dauner, Lucile Florence. The serviceability of certain readyemade
rayon garments. (Unpublished thesis, Kansas State College of
.Agriculture and.Applied Science, 1940).

Grimes, Mary Anna. Some problems of sampling - textile fibers and
fabrics. Journal 23 Home Economics 39 (Feb. 1947), pp. 93-94.

 

Hayes, Margaret B. and Rogers, Ruth Elmquist. EWaluating the »
serviceability of fabrics. Journal of Home Ebonomics S4 (1942),
p. 435. "'""“" "" ...—......

 

Kaswell, Ernest R. Wear-resistance of apparel textiles. Textile
Research Journal 16 (Oct. 1946), pp. 502-521.

Lomax, James. Textile Testing, New York: Longmans, Green and
Campany (1937), p. 162.

Lund, Lillian 0., Phelps, Ethel L., Norton, Helen'Ward and Miller,
Barbara Bailey. Relative serviceability of three weights of
wool serge. Journal of Home Economics 39 (Feb., 1947),
pp. 81-84. '—

 

(12)

(13)

(14)

(15)

(16)

(17)

(18)

(19)

(20)

(21)

(22)

(33)

(24)

(25)

57

Lyle, Dorothy S. and Black, Dorothy C. The effect of wringing upon
the tensile strength of rayon fabrics. .American Dyestuff
Reporter 33 (1044). pp. 441-444; 455-457.

 

Mack, Pauline Berry, Chairman, et.a1. Colorfastness of women's and
children's wearing-apparel fabrics. Journal of Home Economics
34 (Oct. 1942), pp. 539-550.

 

Mauersberger, H. R. New additions in American rayon denier and
filament table. Rayon Textile Menthly 27 (Sept. 1946), p. 76.

Mentrup, Sister Joan maria, 0.S.F. .A comparative study of the
laboratory performance with the service performance of silk
and rayon slips. (Unpublished thesis, Purdue University, 1942).

O'Brien, Ruth. The contribution of home economics to textile
research. Journal of Home Economics 34 (Sept. 1942), pp. 433-
435. ""‘""“ "" _____._...

 

Platt, Helen King. Comparison of the service qualities of certain
all-silk, all rayon, and silk and rayon mixed fabrics before
and after laundering. (Unpublished thesis, Kansas State College
of Agriculture and.Applied Science, 1940).

I

Rann, Florence. A.comparative study of four brands of'women's
rayon woven slips of comparable price. (Unpublished thesis,
Michigan State College, 1946).

Roseberry, Elizabeth D. The study of the relationship between the
construction and durability of viscose rayon fabrics. (Un-
published thesis, Pennsylvania State College, 1940).

Sommaripa,.Alexis. Efficiency in consumption. Autopsy of Discarded
Rayon Slips (1940), pp. 1-12. ' "' '” " '

Tait, J. H. Abrasion resistance on rayon linings. Rayon Textile
Monthly 26 (1945), pp. 61-62.

 

Textile‘World's Synthetic Fiber Table. Textile'World (Sept. 1945),
Pp. 117-1320

'Ward, Helen M. and Bailey, Barbara. Service tests on blends of
new and reclaimed wool. Journal of Home Ebonomics 36 (may, 1944),
pp. 200‘2040 -_.

 

'Women's dresses and slips, a buying guide. United States Department
of.Agriculture Bulletin No. 1851.

 

 

 

‘Women's slip sizes (woven fabrics). Commercial Standard 68121-45.
National Bureau of Standards (1945).

 

APPENDIX

Plat e 1

Slip Fabric

New Laundered

Worn, Laboratory laundered Worn, Home laundered

 

. 4...! ‘ 7r-

Plate 2

 

Design at 811p

 

 

 

 

 

..--..Lines of Measurement

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Plate 5

Front

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Areas of Near

- Severely ‘lern

\\ lorn

64

Instruct ions to Co-operat or

WEARING AND LAUNDERING SLIP
Would you be willing to wear this slip approximately fifty hours

a week for a total period twenty weeks? During the fifty hours of
wear per week, I hope you will launder the slip twice (or once for
approximately twenty-five hours of wear) according to laundering

suggestions given beleW. I should like to have} the slip, with the
record sheet, returned to the laboratory for visual inspection and
shrinkage measurements five times during the entire wearing period.

The five periods are scheduled as follows :

 

 

 

 

 

 

Panes macs 0F WEAR nouns or WEAR LAUNDERINGS
1 2%- 125 5
2 5 250 10
s 10 500 11 20
4 15 750 so
5 20 1,000 40

 

 

 

 

 

After the first 125 hours of wear, during which time the slip
has been laundered five times, will you return it, with your wearing
record to the laboratory for the first checking? At any time during
the twenty weeks of wear, a break or hole should appear, will you
please return your slip with the record sheet to the laboratory?
This does not apply to broken seam stitching or broken straps.

I recommend the following laundry method:

Completely dissolve enough Lux Flakes in lukewarm water to make a

65
standing suds of about two or three inches. Gently squeeze the suds
through the fabric. The slip is then rinsed twice in lukewarm water.
After the second rinse the slip should be rolled in a towel to absorb
excess moisture. It is preferred that the slip be ironed within two
hours, but if it is inconvenient to do so, the slip may be allowed to
dry (away from direct heat or sun) and at a convenient time be rinsed
and rolled in a towel and allowed to stand for at least thirty minutes
before ironing.

Iron on the wrong side with a warm (not hot) iron. Set control
on "Rayon" if heat controlled iron is used. Iron with grain of fabric
to prevent stretching.

I am attempting to make a comparison among the various slips
worn for the same length of time and laundered the same number of times,
so I shall appreciate your cOOperation in helping me control these
factors. If you have any questions concerning the directions, please

do not hesitate to contact me. Thank you for your cooperation.

WEARING RECORD
Co-operator's Name Address
At the end of approximately hours wear and launderings
please return slip and wearing record to:
Theln'a Thompson
Room 202

Home Economics Building

Phone : 83083

Number hours Check wh '
Date worn each laundered Comments--fit, comfort, etc.

da

 

66

INVBT IGA‘I‘ OR' S

C ODE Hours ‘5? ear

RECORD SHEFHII

PERIOD I

67

Home Laund er ed

 

Yarn Slippage

Seam Slippage

Abras ion

Color Change

Cements

Table 1

Yarn Count for Original Slips’

Code Warp Filling

a/P'r 155.2 104.0
tl/P! 165.4 104.4
b/Pr 156.2 106.0
111/?! 156.8 105.8
o/rr 155 .2‘ 107.0
cl/Pl‘ 155.8 104.8
Average 155.6 105.:

‘"Average of five determination for each slip

69

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71

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Weight in Ounces per Square Yard

Table 5

 

 

 

 

Original Unworn, launder ed Worn, laundered
Code Ounces Code Ounces Code Ounces
a/PT 2.61 a/LC 2 .70 2/aL 2 .83
CW 2e55 Cpl/LG 2e62 5/01. 2087
b/PT 2 .65 b/LC 2 .74 6/611 2.66
bl/PT 2 .64 111/10 ' 2 .71 10/aH 2 .60
c/Pl‘ - 2.67 c/LC 2.76 ll/bH 2.67
cl/PT 2 .54 cl/LC 2 .73 17/03 2 .78
Average 2e61 2e71 2e73

72

Table 6

Denier’

warp and Filling

 

Code

 

'flarp Filling
6/?! 75.0 73.13
61/?! 76.7 74.09
b/PT 76.0 73.88
bl/PT 76.7 73.12
o/rr 74.3 75.44
ol/br 74.0 74.47
Average 75.45 74.02

1"Average of three determinations

73

Table 7

Yarn Twist per Inch‘

War p and Filling

 

 

Code warp Direction Filling Direction
of Twist of Twist
a/PT 5.16 6 29.19 2
al/PT - 6.41 6 28.01 2
b/P‘l' 2.68 6 23.11 2
161/121 4.15 s 22 .66 2
6/151 2.15 6 22.67 2
ol/rr 5.22 6 26.34 2
Average 4.24 S 25 .28 2

*Average of ten determinations

74

 

Table 8

Filament Count

 

 

Code 'flarp . Filling
a/Pl’ 26 so
26 60
26 60

Average 26.0 60.0
‘1/yr 26 60
26 60
26 60

Average 26 e0 60 .0
b/PT 50 so
50 60
50 59

Average 50.0 59.?
bl/PT 50 60
50 59
50 60

Average 50.0 59,7
°/?T 50 50
50 60
50 60

Average 50.0 60.0
cl/PT 50 so
50 60
50 60

Average 50.0 50,0

 

I ‘III'E‘A -9 o 1'.

76

Table 9

Breaking Strength in Pounds

(Original slips.)

 

 

 

Code Warp Filling

my wa ' my w» :
a/TT 26.4 14.0 27.8 14.6 5
61/66 I 28.2 11.4 27.8 14.4
b/PT 60.4 12.6 28.6 14.0 '
51/77 61.0 14.4 27.4 16.0
o/rr 29.4 12.4 26.2 14.0
51/67 30.4 14.2 27.6 12.6
Average 29 .6 13.2 27 .6 13.8
s. D. 1.06 1.1 .72 .76

l“Average of five determinations for each slip

77

Table 10

Breaking Strength in Pounds

(Unworn slips laboratory laundered.)

 

 

Code 'Warp Filling
Dry Wet Dry Wet

4/10 24.1 12.1 26.6 14.5
61/10 26.2 12.4 25.9 14.4
b/tc 25.6 10.6 25.8 12.6
51/16 26.6 10.8 25.6 12.5
o/ic 25.8 11.0 25.8 16.4
51/16 26.6 10.6 28.0 15.0
Average 25.6 11.2 26.2 13.8
s. D. .76 .75 .86 .94

IAverage of ten determinations for each slip

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