l I I‘ll I k I ' (MINIMUM TI | i §£> W A STUDY TO EVALUATE THE DURABILITY AND CARE OF THE COTTON UNIFORMS OF WHKTNEY VOCATIONAL HIGH SCHOOL, TOLEDO, OHIO Thesis for the Degree of M. A. MICHIGAN STATE COLLEGE Bertha Knapp Robertson I 945 n‘4mmA This is to certify that the thesis entitled A Study to Evaluate the Durability and Care of the Cotton Uniforms of Whitney Vocational High School, Toledo Ohio. presented by Bertha Knapp Robertson has been accepted towards fulfihnent of the requirements for M A degree in_Igzlilfi3+_Clothing and Related Arts Major professor Date February 19. 1915 J’AL’_J _(_~_‘_L_"" _ ‘ .nl! _ ' A.STUDY TO EVALUATE THE DURABILITY END CARE OF THE COTTON UNIFORMS OF‘WHITNEY VOCATIONAL HIGH SCHOOL. TOLEDO: OHIO b! Bertha Knapp Robertson A.Theeis Submitted to the Graduate School of Michigan State College of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of lmSIER OF~ARTS Department of Textiles. Clothing. and. Related Arts 1945 Contents Page Introduction ----------------------------------------- 4 Review of Literature --------------------------------- 6 materials and.Methods -------------------------------- 10 Discussion of Results -------------------------------- 22 Conclusions ------------------------------------------ 45 Recommendations -------------------------------------- 47 Summary ---------------------------------------------- 43 Appendix --------------------------------------------- 51 Bibliography ----------------------------------------- 31 Acknowledgements Sincere gratitude is expressed by the writer to the following persons: To Merle Ford. Professor of Textiles. Clothing. and Related Arts. for assistance in formulating and organizing the problem; To Hazel B. Strahan. Associate Professor of Textiles. Clothing. and.Related Arts. for her supervision of the writer in the preparation of this thesis; To William.Douell Baten. Ph.D.. Associate Professor of Mathematical Statistics. for his advice and encouragement in the statistical procedures in this study; To the members of the staff and to the girls of‘Whitncy ‘Vocational High.School. Toledo. Ohio. who participated; To all others in the School of Home Economics for their interest and assistance in the many details of the investi- gation. Bertha Knapp Rdbertson. Toledo. Ohio January 15. 1945 Introduction The cotton fabrics used for the uniforms at the‘Whitney Vocational High School. Toledo. Ohio. were not giving satis- factory service. These fabrics. made into uniforms by the 1 students in clothing in the Power machine Shop. shrunk. did not wear equally well under various service conditions. nor did they retain their color or crisp appearance after laundering. This study was undertaken to evaluate the durability of and to devise improved methods for the care of the cotton uniforms worn by the girls in the Clothing. Cosmetology. Foods and Household management Shops at‘Whitney'Vooational High.8chool. Tram this study it was hoped to determine whether or not the dissatisfaction with the uniforms was due to: 1. causes inherent within the fabric 2. improper laundering methods 3. variability of wear in the different shops 4. structural design and workmanship of the 5. znggggggation of these factors From an analysis of these variables it seemed possible that recomendaticns could be made concerning future selection of materials for uniforms best suited to the needs of the school. The findings of this study should be of interest and significance to the purchasers of uniforms for hotels. rest- aurants. hospitals. beauty parlors and similar business concerns. In as much as the fabric used in the uniforms in this study is typical of that used by a.uniform rental agency serving such groups in Toledo. Ohio. the findings should be pertinent. Review of Literature [Since uniforms are used so extensively it is surprising that there is relatively little literature reporting experi- mental work on the type of fabric from which they are made. In the available literature reviewed no published study on any fabric of identical or similar construction to Kolor Kloth for use as school uniforms was found. However. there were numerous studies relating to cotton fabrics for use as apparel. household textiles. and home furnishing textiles. lhny'experimental studies. related to this problem. have been made by government agencies such as the Bureau of amen Nutrition and Home Economics of the United States Department of Agriculture. college experiment stations. college textile laboratories and private testing organiza- tions. These studies followed test procedures set up by the.American Society for Testing Materials (2). the Ameri- can.issociation of Textile Chemists and.Colorists (l). and the Rational Bureau of Standards (14). The tests were made to determine the relationship between the physical characteristics of fabrics and their reliability of pre- diction for intended use; to set up standard specifications for certain fabrics; to study the effect of wear and laun- dry upon fabrics; or similar prcblems. ‘While there was found to be wide variation in cotton fabrics in breaking strength. shrinkage. colorfastness. thread count. and sizing determinations it was generally agreed that the performance of fabrics in use was very closely related to these factors. Rays and Frankenberg (7) in their analysis of eight- four qualities of cotton dress prints found that in general breaking strength was directly related to count; that grab values were usually higher than the strip method; and that the values of the two were correlated. Bays (8) in an analy- sis of six types of plain weave cotton dress fabrics stated that filling strength tests were the critical values in dura- bility. and that any fabric with a filling value for the grab method below twenty pounds should.not be expected to be serviceable for purposes requiring a higher breaking strength. Skinkle (17) cited that any change in strength of a textile material was always due to some change in its physical or chemical properties. as. also. cautioned that strength'was a determination of the result of several variables namely: quality of fiber. twist and ply of yarn. ‘weave and finish. These factors need to be carefully con- sidered in the interpretation and comparison of strength tests. Davison (3) reported that cotton fabrics subjected to laundry and to body wear could be expected to shrink length- wdse until worn out. and that 3 percent of the shrinkage occurred after the first laundry. Hays' (8) later experi- .ments on poplins. shantungs. and ginghams showed shrinkage of 3 percent or more in the warp. In the same study on lightweight lawns. dimity and swiss the shrinkage was greater in the filling than in the warp. The range was from 4.0 to 11.5 percent in the filling and 1.3 to 5.4 per- cent in the warp. In the shrinkage tests on sheets made from selected mill types of cotton. Rogers. Hays.‘Wigington (15) noted that all sheets shrank lengthwise and all sheets increased in width with wear and with laundry. Since oolorfastness to light and to laundry is very im- portant. Hays and.rrankenberg (7) proposed that cotton dress prints should be class 3 or higher to light and 3 or higher to washing. The recommendations were based on Come mercial Standard 0359-41 (14) rating for oolorfastness to light and to laundry. They deducted. from their data. that a consumer buying unlabelled merchandise stood about one chance in three in obtaining material with satisfactory oolorfastness to light. Sixty-four of the eighty-four cotton prints tested showed excellent oolorfastness to laundering Test No. 4 Commercial Standard CS59-4l (14). This rating does not imply protection against the excessive use of chlorine in washing or drying repeatedly in the direct sunlight. Morrison (13). in her study on the ser- viceability of slip-cover fabrics. concluded that the in- formation on labels concerning oolorfastness to washing was more reliable than that given concerning oolorfastness to sun. The studies reviewed revealed a wide range in weight per square yard and the sizing per square yard for cotton fabrics. The loss in weight on desizing in general decreased as the count increased. Elongation results on cotton sheets as re- 9 ported by Rogers. Hays. and Wigington (15) showed that warp elongation increased at 25 washes and then gradually decreas- ed. and that after 125 washes values remained essentially the same. The filling elongation decreased with service to values between six and eight percent. ‘While many studies have been made on cotton fabrics used as apparel. household textiles and home furnishings. appar- ently relatively few kinds of fabrics suitable for uniforms have been investigated. The studies that have been.made on cotton fabrics shew'a close relationship between the physi- cal characteristics of the fabrics and their performance in service. 10 materials and.Methods Fifty-five girls were chosen at random from the Clothing. Gosmetology.‘!oods. and Household Management Sheps at‘Whit- ney'Vocational High School in Toledo. Ohio. to participate in this experimental study. They were divided in two groups. thirty-one in the controlled group and twenty-four in the non-controlled group. The uniforms in the controlled group 'were laundered at school. by the writer. under carefully controlled conditions that could be repeated in the home. The uniforms in the non-controlled group were laundered at home by the girls in their regular home laundry. No in- structions were given to this group. Each girl purchased two uniforms. which had been made by the Clothing girls in the Power machine Shop. from the school store. The uni- forms ranged in size from 12 to 18. These sizes were rep- resentative of the entire school of over 600 girls. The students in the above named shOps were their uniforms daily to classes. Some wore them to their after school work in restaurants. beauty shops. or in the Clothing trades. Fabrics: The fabric from.which the uniforms were made was sold under the trade name 'Sno Flake Kolor Kloth'. It 'was purchased by the school from a wholesale establishment in Toledo. Ohio. in the summer of 1942 and was.made into uniforms during the school year of 1942-43. Ne specifica- tions concerning the physical properties or the care of the material was obtainable from the label. Inquiry at the ‘wholesale firm.revealed that the fabric was preshrunk. The 11 same quality Kolor Kloth was secured for all the uniforms. the only difference being the color. The Clothing uniforms were blue. the Cosmetology uniforms were white. the Foods uniforms were peach. and the Heusehold management uniforms were green. As nearly as could be ascertained the fabric corresponded more closely to the specifications given by Smenner (16) for cotton suiting number 15 than to any other specifications found. The specifications are: Thread count warp 52.8 Filling 54.1 Strip tensile strength ' 63.55 ' 59.70 Elongation ' 7.73 ” 13.83 Weight per sq. yd. 5.2275 ounces (See Appendix A--Swatches p.52 ). measurements: Three special charts were devised for keeping the necessary data on the uniforms throughout the school year. The 'Fit of Uniforms' Chart B (Appendix p. 53) was designed as a means for recording linear meas- urements and width measurements at the bust. back of shoulders. and hips. Pertinent comments on the general ap- pearance and color change of the uniform throughout the study were noted in the spaces provided for these purposes. A.record was made of the weight and height of each girl at the beginning and at the end of the study by the school nurse. (The girl's weight and height were taken in her gymnasium suit.) (See Appendix:Chart B p. 53) A second chart ”wearer's Record of Care of Uniforms' Chart C (Appendix p. 54) provided a sheet for keeping specific data on the method of laundry. stains. tears or breaks in 12 fabric. when and where they occurred. if they were mended. and the length of time between launderings. .A third chart (on the back of the second one) consisted of a calendar of the school year. Each time the uniform was laundered it was checked opposite the correct data of laundry. (See Ap- pendix Chart C p. 54). These two charts were stapled to- gether and all recordings were made by the writer. To insure uniformity in measuring each new uniform was laid out smoothly on a horizontal surface. without tension in any direction. and measured with a steel tape to the nearest 1/16 of an inch. Points were carefully marked with indelible ink in the following places on the right and left side of the garment: Linear measurements: . hirtwaist style uniform. a. Entire length taken at the center back of the garment. II. Princess style uniform a. Line dropped vertically from.the shoulder seam at the intersection of the front and side-front panel. (In each instance indelible ink marks were made at the hem line and at the center back. and center front shoulder seam for re-measurements at identical points.) Width Measurements: I. SEIrtwaist style uniform a. Shoulder back--width.measurement taken at the base of the yoke line. b. Bust--line dropped vertically 2' from the armscye on the underarm seam, ‘Width.measuraments taken between these points. 0. Hips-~line dropped vertically 7' below the waistline on the side seams. Width.measurements taken between these points. 13 II. Princess style uniform a. Shoulder back-~1ine dropped vertic- ally 4i" from shoulder seam to armscye. ‘Width.measurements taken between these points. b. Bust--line dropped 2” on underarm seam. Width.measurements taken between these points. c. Hips-~line dropped vertically 14” from the base of armscye on the side seams. ‘Width.measurements taken at these points. (See Appendix uniform.sketches D-EéF-G pp.5649. Re-measurements were taken at these points after the first. tenth. twentieth. and twenty-fifth launderings. Uniforms from the controlled and the non-controlled groups were with- drawn for yarn count. tensile strength. and elongation tests as follows: Controlled group uniforms Rugmer Laundry Interval 1 2 10 3 20 5 25 Hen-controlled group uniforms 3 1 2 10 3 20 2 25 A total of twenty-two uniforms were withdrawn. New uniforms were purchased. by the writer. to replace the ones taken from the girls. All uniforms were measured for shrinkage or stretchage at each designated interval. Laundry methods: The laundry procedure was devised by the writer and could be easily duplicated by the girls at home. An electric spinner type 9 pound capacity washer was 14 filled to the water line with 115-118° r. water; 4 standard sized measuring cups of mild stock soap solution (14) were added to the water; the machine was operated until there was a full running suds; the white and green uniforms were placed in the water and agitated for 12-15 minutes depend- ing upon the amount of soil in the garments. After wring- ing they were placed in an electric spinner type washer in a clear water at a temperature of 115-118° F. and agitated for 3 minutes. They were put into the spinnerette for the removal of excess water. Then they were taken through a second clear tub of rinse water at a temperature of 110° F. Each.uniform was dipped up and down ten times and passed through the wringer. This procedure was repeated in a third tub of clear rinse water at a temperature of 100° F. After a thin starch dressing they were passed through the wringer and hung up to dry at room temperature 700/ - 2° F. The blue and peach uniforms were treated in the same way except the initial washing and rinsing water temperature was lowered to 110-1120 F. It was found through experimen- tation in the laboratory on swatch pieces (L Figure I p. 15) that higher temperatures of water caused these two colors to bleed. The same mild soap solution was used throughout the entire experiment. methods 2g,8ampling: In an endeavor to study the char- ecteristics of the new fabric two yards of fabric of each color were donated by the school for experimental laboratory procedures. Figure I p. 15 is a sampling diagram.of the test pieces which were taken from each specimen for yarn count. breaking strength. elongation. weight per square yard and sizing determinations. 143 15 Sampling Diagram of Test Pieces for Each Color Specimen e1" Figure I Shrinkage A-B-C Yarn Count D E-F-G H-I N-O-P Breaking Strength Breaking Strength (First Laundering) Sizing Acid, Alkaline Perspiration Test Colorfastness to light Colorfastness to Laundering (Composite test cloth) Temperature Color Tests Breaking Strength (New Fabric) Weight per Square Yard Scale .2".l" 16 Shrinkage: A modified Commercial Standard C859-4l (l4) shrinkage procedure was followed to determine the percentage of shrinkage in the new fabric. Twelve 20" squares (three of each of the four colors represented by the uniforms) were used as control specimens for shrinkage determinations. (See Figure I Squares AaB-C p. 15.) An 18' square was marked off on the 20” square with a colored basting thread. Care was taken to have the thread follow the warp and the filling yarns. On this basting line three 18' lengths 6' apart were marked off with indelible ink. This procedure was repeated for each of the twelve squares which were laundered each week in the school controlled laundry. The specimens were handled with extreme care. the excess water was squeezed out by hand. so as not to distort yarns. The squares were placed horizontally on a flat surface and allowed to dry at room.temperature 700/ - 2° F. ‘When dry they were laid out smoothly. without stretching. dampened. and allowed to lie for 5 minutes. They were laid on a padded ironing board and pressed.by raising and lowering the iron. The iron (temperature was between 275-3000 F. The specimens were then conditioned on a flat surface for 2 hours at room tempera- ture. The 3 marked distances in each direction on the squares were measured to the nearest 1/16 inch after the l. 2. 3. 4. 5. 10. 20. and 25th launderings. The average changes in dimensions in the warp and filling for each specimen was calculated. Square A. of each color. was re- moved after the tenth laundering for breaking strength. 17 elongation. yarn count tests. Square B was removed after the twentieth and Square C after the twenty-fifth launder- ing. The breaking strength of these test specimens. which had no body wear. was compared with the breaking strength of the uniforms which had been worn to determine the amount of wear due to body wear and the amount of wear due to laundry wear. Colorfastness: To determine whether or not the colors were fast to washing conditions that could be duplicated at (home. Square C (Figure I p. 15) of each color was laundered throughout the entire test period. A 2' x 4' composite test cloth (K Figure I p. 15) was sewed to each Square 0 to determine whether or not the dye was fugitive to the various fibers. After each laundry the oolorfastness was noted and reported as determined by Test No. 2 Commercial Standard 0859-41 (14). The oolorfastness to perspiration procedure as out- lined by Commercial Standard CSS9-4l (14) was followed in the laboratory test for this determination. Two specimens (E and I Figure I p. 15) approximately 2" x 4"were pre- pared for testing. Similar sized pieces of composite test cloth containing fibers of silk. wool. linen. rayon and cotton were prepared. One of the test specimens and a simi- lar sized piece of composite test cloth were thoroughly wet with the acid solution. The two pieces were then rolled together. with the fabric to be tested on the inside. The other test specimen was prepared in a similar manner except that the pieces were thoroughly wet with the alkaline solu- 18 tion. Each roll was then placed in a labelled glass tube. the end of which was closed. leaving one-third of each roll projecting. the other two-thirds of the roll being protected from evaporation. The tubes were placed in an electric oven maintained at a temperature of 100°; - 2° r. until dry. No specimen was rinsed after drying. The oolorfastness was re- ported according to Commercial Standard 0359-41 (14). Dis- coloration. due to perspiration. of the uniforms during actual wear was noted by visual examination. The oolorfastness to light was tested and reported according to Commercial Standard 0859-41 (14). A.F D A Fade-Ometer apparatus was used to determine the oolorfast- ness to light. Two specimens 2i” x.8" (J‘Figure I p. 15) of each colored fabric were prepared. The specimens were p1aced.between opaque masks which shielded them.from the light except for an area of 3/4" x 2' which was open to the air on one side. The specimens so protected were exposed in the Fade-Ometer for a period of 20 hours. A second strip of the opaque mask was torn off and the specimen was ex- posed for another 20 hours. thus the first part of the fabric was exposed for 40 hours. This was repeated until the first section of the fabric had been exposed 100 hours. The a- mount of fading was Judged by comparing the exposed sample. after it had laid in the dark at room temperature for 2 hours. with the original material. gtggp'breaking 3233.52g elongation: Breaking strength tests on the new fabric were carried out in accordance with 19 the reveled-strip method Commercial Standard 0859-41 (14). Five test specimens 6" x 1}" (M Figure I p. 15) were cut in each direction of the fabric where yarns had been pulled. These were reveled to exactly 1" in width and were tested in the dry state after they had lain at room temperature 70° F. for 2 hours. The relative humidity of the room was 40 for every test made. The strips were placed in the flaws of a Scott motor-driven Breaking Strength machine and broken in the standard manner. The results were recorded and an average of the five warp and the five filling strips was taken as the average number of pounds necessary to tear the fabric. Specimen D (Figure I p. 15) was laundered Just once. It was removed and breaking strips were prepared in a similar manner and the strength recorded. Specimens A-B- C (Figure I p. 15) were tested after the tenth. twentieth. and twenty-fifth launderings respectively. (See Appendix drawings u-E-F-G pp.56-9 for specimens tested from each of the twenty-two uniforms as they were withdrawn at the stated laundering intervals.) Elongation tests were read from the autographic tensilgram sheets which were recorded simultaneously with the strength tests. 13g; 33933: A.S.T.M. Designation: 1339-39 (2) proce- dure was followed to determine the number of yarns per square inch. A micrometer was used to count the actual number of warp yarns in one inch at five different places in the fabric. and the average number per inch was calcu- lated. No count was made nearer than one-tenth the width 20 of the fabric. The average number of filling yarns per inch was determined in the same way. The procedure was repeated on the fabric squares AAB-C‘Figure I p. 15 until the yarns ceased to shift. A yarn count was made on each uniform. as it was withdrawn. throughout the entire study. flgtgg soluble dressing: A modification of the method given by Jacobson and MeCullough (11) was used to determine the percentage of sizing in the test specimens. Three specimens B-F-G Figure I p. 15 exactly 5' x 5" were pre- pared and an average of the three tests reported as the percentage of sizing. Each 5" x 5" piece was divided into four equal parts. These were placed in an electric oven maintained at a temperature of 221° F. and dried until a constant weight was obtained on an analytical balance. The samples were immersed in a 5 percent oxalic acid solution. squeezed while immersed. removed. and the procedure re- peated three times to insure thorough wetting of the fibers by the acid solution. The samples were placed in a 600 ml beaker. covered with 250-300 ml of the 5 percent oxalic acid solution and boiled for 15 minutes. At the end of this time each sample was removed and tested with iodine to determine whether or not any starch remained. The samples were then rinsed 12 times in fresh hot distilled water. squeezed well after each rinse. After rinsing the samples were conditioned at room.temperature 700/ - 2° F. until dry. They were then replaced in the conditioning oven. dried at a temperature maintained at 2210 F. to a constant 21 weight. The percentage of sizing was calculated by using the following equation: weight of original ----weight of desized sample A sample X 100 3 % of weight of original sizing sample weight pggisguare‘zggd: Jacobson and MtCullough's (ll) procedure for the determination of the weight per square yard was used. Three test specimens (N-O-P Figure I p. 15) exactly 5' x 5* were out. then divided into 4 equal parts. These were dried to a constant weight in an electric oven maintained at a temperature of 221° F. The weight per square yard of the three test specimens was averaged and re- corded as the ounces of weight per square yard. This pro- cedure was repeated for each colored fabric. The following equation was used: 1535 I wt. of known area (5x5) z 1 t area {h inches ‘0 6h Of square yard Desigg and workmanship: .A study of the design and workmanship of the garments in relation to service was made from.data compiled on Chart B “Fit of Uniforms" and Chart C "Wearer's Record of Care of Uniforms” (Appendix pp.53-4). In addition visual observation of the uniforms throughout the school year and critical comments of the girls were nOtede 22 Discussion of Results thsical properties g§_thg Egg fabric: An analysis of the physical properties of the new fabric was carried out to determine whether or not there were significant differences 'within the four colors of the same fabric. Table I p. 23 shows negligible differences in yarn count per inch in either the warp or filling in the four colors. The average warp breaking strength falls within a range of 3 pounds. the aver- age filling falls within a range of 11 pounds. There is relatively little difference in the weight per square yard in the blue. peach and green Kolor Kloth. The white mat- erial is approximately 16 percent heavier than the other fabrics. On the basis of sizing the fabrics seem to fall in- to two groups. The white and green are markedly sized. while the blue and peach have little dressing. To further deter- mine whether or not there are significant differences in the new fabrics an analysis of variance of the breaking strength. elongation and shrinkage of the four colors was carried out. Such an analysis enables one to test the significance of a difference between the averages of two compounds each made up of two or more variables. This procedure reveals no such differences in the fabrics. Therefore. on the basis of these analyses it is assumed that there is no significant differ- ence in the physical properties of the four colors of the fabric. Bgeaking strength: After the first laundry. an analysis of variance of the warp breaking strength of the controlled 23 nesoeaom no.¢ oo.m om.5 om.H wafiuam w UHNW #w.¢ on.¢ 9H.m oo.¢ mousse oassum hem pawns; m.nm 0.0 0.0a «.0 o.mm n.m o.am a.» .h A: npoooaom soapmwsoan .aoaoo more you escapesdsuopou n no .noaoo some now macapssasnepou n no .wsaaaam use our; ad more mooapmswsuopec n we .wsfiaaau use oook_aa some msOHpssaawopoc n no dd mm «w aw .h compo mumsohpm msfimoenm .wsflaaau use one: :H some apnoea n no we we mm 00 on on an m# on mm aw on .3 .h .3 mussom doosH mom aspen assoc one» cannehxsez no meanne90hm.aoowmhomnnH eases omonebsum owoaobene owooobsun emoaobocm owonobsaa noose nooom spank. ofiam cannon 24 and non-controlled uniforms. and the fabric squares reveals that the average 55.2 pounds for the fabric squares is not significantly greater than the average 55 pounds for the con- trolled uniforms and the average 53 pounds for the non—con- trolled uniforms. There are no significant differences be- tween the filling breaking strength averages at the same period. Malzsis of'Variance of the Breakin Strength of the Eater______I_‘_als a__f____ter—_§_e wfim teth Laund Fabric Squares Controlled Non-controlled Uniforms Uniforms (t1) 53* (t2) 40* (t3) 38* 49 37 46 48 44, 49 49 Total To """"121 $253" 453 Average 49.7 40 44 45 * pounds (45313 = 205209 = 20521 c.r. Sum (of all t's) = 20781 t1 / t3 4 t3: 39601 14641 17689 K : 20676 ; N1 N2 N3 4 3 Sum (of all t's)2 -- c.r.= tf { t3 ; t§ -- c.r. “1N2 N3 20781 -- 20521 . 20676 -- 20521 260 a 155 plus error Source D.F. Sum.of ‘Mean of ' Square 8 Square 3 Total 9 260 --- r.= 77.5 - 5.2 ‘1?- Group 2 155 77.5 (Signifi- cant) Within 7 105 )15 15 = 3.87 S.D. 6):}; .t 7%: .. as; W4 ,4 1/3 . 2.18 1318 ]--M2: 49.7 -- 40 82:2 9. 4.45 2.18 2.18 1d, Therefore 49.7 pounds is significantly greater than 40 pounds. 1. 25 fig : Mi -- M3 = 49.7 -- 44 : 2.43 2.18 2.18 Therefore 49.7 pounds is significantly greater than 44 pounds. ,4 1 . 1/3 l/3.3.87 W7“. .11 es;- 1. W * 2 133: M3 --M2: 44 -- 40 34.031.51 gtll . 2.11 'ETIl Therefore 44 pounds is not significantly greater than 40 pounds. If two samples are taken and the averages are computed the question arises as to whether the difference between these samples might arise from mere fluctuations in samp- ling or whether it indicates a real difference between the two larger groups from which the samples were drawn. The average 49.7 pounds for the fabric squares is significantly greater than the average 40 pounds for the controlled uni- forms and the average 44 pounds for the non-controlled uni- forms and is not due to faulty sampling. Therefore the average of the breaking strength of the unworn fabric squares is significantly greater than the average of the breaking strength of the worn material at the twentieth laundering interval. The fluctuations appear to be due to body wear. At this interval the school controlled launder- ing method and the home non-controlled laundering method are not sufficiently different to cause a variance in the breaking strength of the fabrics in these groups. A simi- lar mathematical procedure shows that the average 42 pounds for the filling strength of the fabric squares is signifi- cantly greater than the average 29.6 pounds for the non- 26 controlled uniforms and the average 32 pounds for the con- trolled uniforms. There is no significant difference between the averages for the controlled and the non-controlled uni- forms. At the twenty-fifth laundering interval the increase in the average warp breaking strength of the controlled uni- form group appears to be due to individual differences in wear and variance in body excretions. Table 2 p. 27. There is not a great enough lapse in time between the twentieth and V twenty-fifth laundering interval to show further significant changes in either the warp or the filling breaking strength. The fabrics. in this study. were by no means worn out at the end of the school year. Each laundering interval approxi- mated 20 hours of body wear. Davison (3) reported the fab- rics in her study worn completely out by body wear and laun- dry wear showed a decrease warpwise in breaking strength of approximately 50 to 60 percent. and 60 to 70 percent de- crease fillingwise. The fabrics. in this study. at the end of the 25th laundering show a decrease in strength of ap- proximately 20 to 25 percent warpwise and 30 to 35 percent fillingwise.‘ Table 3 p. 28. On this basis the uniforms. as far as strength indicates. are approximately half worn out. This finding is further borne out in actual usage of a two year school period. Davison (3) stated that wear on a gar- ment from‘body wear alone caused about one-half of the strength decrease warpwise and slightly less than two-thirds of the decrease fillingwise. In this study the average original warp breaking strength for the fabric squares is 27 m.mN o.mm n.bn b.n¢ .h o.o¢ o.¢¢ o.m¢ o.nm A? mayonnsp coaaonusoonsoz o.mn o.mn 0.09 n.o¢ .h n.¢¢ o.o¢ o.b¢ o.mn .3 manonnsp_ooaaonpsoo monnpoh no see: 0.9» m.¢¢ o.m¢ b.0d N.m¢ b.0n n.o¢ m.nn .h )3 season monosum cannon onwoonpm wsnmsonm no.eossnne> no mnmhasn< we hpnensso obnpoaon paoonom ow * o.nn m.ee e n.nm 6.64 m o.mn s.¢¢ n epnsn-nenese o.me m.ee e n.am n.ne n o.mn 9.04 n reassures n.na m.om e o.en o.ne m o.en o.ee a spoon n.e« n.en a e.ne o.on n o.oe o.om m sauna m.ma «.mm m.ms «.mm n.m¢ ~.mm eez .a .3. .m .3 .n .a munsom newnoopflg season mossom meAdem monosom manonnsp stoncnpfii manonnsp nsmnonvna. maoenoan monnpoh eoHHonpoooasoz esponnsb ooaaonpsoo mayonnnb. knossoq wwmowsno>< 4.m.m new 62. neosem on senses macaw newnenpm wanxoonm no knosEsMuun canoe 29 58.2 pounds. Table 3 p. 28. The average warp decrease for the fabric squares after the 25th laundering is 13.7 pounds. The average for uniforms is 15.06 pounds. Therefore the de- crease due to body wear alone is 1.36 pounds or approximate- ly 9 percent of the total decrease. The original filling breaking strength is 45.5 pounds. The average filling de- crease for the fabric squares after the 25th laundering is 12.5 pounds. The average for the uniforms is 15.36 pounds. Therefore the decrease due to body wear alone is 2.86 pounds or approximately 18.6 percent of the total decrease. Table 31p. 28. Assuming the uniforms to be half worn out. at this interval. the decreases warpwise and fillingwise are less than those of Davison (3). This may be due to the quality of the original fiber. diameter and twist of the yarns. thread count. or to the treatment of the fiber and cloth in the finishing processes. as well as individual differences in wear and in the care of the fabrics. ‘While there appear- ed to be no significant differences in the breaking strength of the new fabrics they do not show a similarity in decrease in breaking strength at the end of the 25th laundering. ‘Wear. due to laundering alone. shows a variation from.the original in the warp strength.ranging from 12 to 29 percent and from 16 to 36 percent fillingwise. The blue Kelor Kloth lost 12.1 percent of its original warpwise strength and 36.1 per- cent fillingwise. In comparison with the peach. green and white fabric the blue lost the least strength warpwise and the most strength fillingwise of any of the colors. It 30 seems that there are variations in the decrease in the break- ing strength of the same fabric under identical laundering procedures. While original breaking strength may be indica- tive of the durability Of a fabric. variability within the same fabric tends to limit its predictive value. Elongation: At the end of the experiment the warp elonga- tion had increased approximately 4 percent. and the filling had decreased approximately 2 percent. The trends in these findings are similar to those reported by Rogers. Hays. and Wigington (15). An analysis of variance of the warp elonga- tion (Table 4 p. 31) shows that the average 10.8? percent for the fabric squares is not significantly greater than the average 10.65 percent for the non-controlled uniforms or the average 8.76 percent for the controlled uniforms. The con- trolled.uniform group shows the least warpwise elongation (Table 4 p. 31). However. an analysis of variance of the filling elongation shows that the average 22.65 percent for the fabric squares is significantly greater than the average 18.15 percent for the non-controlled uniforms. but is not significantly greater than the average of 20.36 percent for the controlled uniforms. This difference is due to greater stretchage in ironing in the non-controlled group. The warp elongation increased similarly in all three groups. while the filling decrease varied with the method of care. It has been reported by Bssam (5) that fabric elongation is directly related to the thread count per inch. Haven (6) stated that elongation and breaking strength are not always directly re- 31 nfi.mH N.ON no.§d n.¢m .h pneonem no.0a 90.0 0.0 mo.nH .3 manouanb ceaaonpnoeonoz soapemsoafi no eonewneb Ho mwmhaendnuw capes on.om $.5H n.mH H.§N .h ob.m n§.m m.§ mH.OH J3 pneonem mahoganp_ccaaouvnoo nednpmh no use: mo.mm hm.OH m.mm $.0H nd.mm $.0H «.mm mo.am .h 13 psoonem meuesdm cannon mm ON CA maebnepsH hnonwcn 32 lated. A.brittle fabric may have high tensile strength.but little or no stretch; a sleazy fabric will have little or no tensile strength but will stretch a great deal; an intermedi- ate fabric may have considerable strength.and stretchage. The Kblor Kloth falls in the last category. lagghggggt; Essam (5) cited that there is a definite re- lationship between the breaking strength of a fabric and its structure. Hays and‘rrankenberg (7) found that in general the breaking strength was related to yarn count. The fabric studied has a very definite closeness of weave. Table I p. 23. The count of cloth is well balanced with consequent shifting of yarns very slight. Appendix'Yarn Count p. 60. The range in yarn count before laundering varies from 54 to 55 in the warp and from 46 to 49 in the filling. At the end of the study the count varies from 53 to 55 in the warp and i from 49 to 53 in the filling. ‘While there is little or no difference in the number of yarns per inch warpwise or fil- lingwise. there is a difference in their appearance under the microscope. The white yarns appear to be made from shorter cotton fibers as they are very fuzzy. and they are not as tightly twisted as those of the other colors. In actual usage the white fabric did not retain its original appearance as long as did the other colors. Colorfastness _t_o_ REEL: After exposure for 100 hours in the Fade-Ometer there was no appreciable change in any hue. All fabrics rate as having "Class 5 oolorfastness to light' (15). Such fabrics are considered of superlative 53 Table 5--Rating of Colorfastness According to Commercial Standard CS59—41* All Colors All Colors Fade-Ometer Perspiration Tests Hours 20 40 60 80 100 Test Acid Alkaline Class 5 5 5 5 5 Class A A Controlled.Uniform Group Launderings No color Slight Noticeable Appreciable Total change change change change 1 **31 31 10 27 2 29 20 21 5 26 25 12 11 23 Non-controlled'Uniform Group Launderings No color Slight Noticeable Appreciable Total change change change change 1 **21 3 24 10 4 12 4 1 21 20 2 11 4 17 25 8 6 14 *Reference (14) **Number of uniforms in study. 34 fastness to sunlight and may be used for any purpose where extreme fastness to light is required. Table 5 p. 33. Epigrfastness £2 laundering: There are very evident dif- ferences in the oolorfastness of the colors to the different laundering methods employed. The colors of the uniforms in the controlled group rate as having "Class 2 colorfastness to laundering" (14). Such fabrics are launderable in the home or comercial latmdry under careful methods when the temperature does not exceed 120° F.. and when no alkali or chlorine is present. and when the material is not dried in the direct sunlight. The uniforms in the controlled group retained their colors with no appreciable change throughout the entire study. This is not true of the non-controlled uniform group. Table 5 p. 33. These uniforms show changes within ten launderings; by the twelfth laundering the peach is appreciably discolored. taking on an orangy hue. There are at least two dye lots in this particular color. the one changing color much more rapidly than the other. The blue and green show appreciable change by twenty launderings. Colorfastness 52 perspiration: The test specimens ex- posed to the acid and alkaline reagents Commercial Standard 0859-41 (14) show the fabrics as having "Class A oolorfast- ness to normal perspiration”. Table 5 p. 33. Such fabrics are considered fast to perspiration. Subjective observa- tion of the uniforms during wear upheld this finding. 93;; 9; the, non-controlled uniforms: The girls used 011113r of the well advertised all-purpose soaps on the mark- 35 at. These soaps were tested in the laboratory and some were found to have an excess of free alkali and varying amounts of carbonates. No one soap was used consistently throughout the year by the girls at home. Four girls admitted using chlorine on white uniforms. No uniform was dried in direct sunlight. It required approximately 5 hours to dry the uni- forms at room temperature 70° F. In the commercial tumbler drier. at school. it required approximately 50 minutes to dry the uniforms. water ranging in temperature from warm to very hot was used. Five girls washed their uniforms by hand. the other nineteen used electric washers of varying makes. The girls did not remove lipstick. fingernail polish. hair dye or food stains from their uniforms before launder- ing. Since laboratory tests showed that water temperatures above 112-115° F. for the peach and blue. and above 120° F. for the green would cause discoloration it is safe to con- clude that temperature of the water caused some of the dis- coloration in the non-controlled uniform group. Also excess alkali in the soaps. incomplete removal of soil. and poor rinsing contributed to color changes. Shrinkage $3 laundering: The mean percentage of shrink- age of the individual fabrics ranged from a gain of 1.6 per- cent in the filling direction (Table 7 p. 38) to a shrink- age of 5.62 percent in the warp direction (Table 6 p. 36). The mean percentage of the residual shrinkage for the fab- ric squares is 5.6 l - .09 percent (Table 6 p. 56) and 1.39 K - .04 percent in the filling (Table 7 p. 38). The shrinkage 36 mo.wmo.m mo.mne.n mo.umm.m mo.wm.¢ HH.\ow.n mo.wee.m ao.uo¢.n em.wmo.n pneonem use: apnoea NH NH NH NH NH NH *wmenesdm canneh uo henspz newsman stowmaoe anaconda no huesssmnso oanB «n.wa.m ne.wo.m e¢.uma.¢ on.wno.w psoouem_ndcz Nnnonc #H 5H HN dN manoufinb no 909882 heap» pa memesum eahpdh ww been» :a mshoufinp. * ueHHonpnoo memesvm canneh nmsoec mahogans uoHHoppnoonaoz «nacho mahouwnb_ueHHonpnoo Hnsonw 0N.‘o.n 0H.wm.n on.wo.n Hm.‘m.m pneonem mama Hmsoac 0N 0N 0N Hm *msuonasp Ho nonasz nN ON 0H P002531!!!) mHebneunH kneaded Table 6--Summary Width Dimensional Change laundry Number of Bust Group 1* Intervals** Uniforms Percent Shoulder Back Percent 1 31 -.35£.59 -.so£.12 2 3 4 5 10 29 -.64£.69 -.44£.51 20 26 -.es{.17 -1.os£.44 25 23 -.78£.69 -47£.44 * Group 1 Controlled.Uniforms 37 Hips Percent -005£107 -.34£.4a {.19£.49 -.01£.53 ** Each laundering interval approximates 20 hours of body wear 0 eo.umn.a- eo.wom.o- no.aon.fl- mo.we.a- so.‘en.an eo.umn.a- H.Hwo.m- mo.wc.o- pseonom mamaaae n pecan me.unw. so.was. am.woo. «n.&m.H paeouem mnHm .mek heap em.aeo. oe.wao.a ao.asa.a an.anm. pneeneg Mecm necHsoam N macho $.34 eo.awne.a mo.wom.a ow.ao.H uncouem prim Aeosawpeoov o capes dH 5H HN ¢N manouanb no henapz mesa: om eepeeHHopmmc Hwbhopna hhusseH poem * uoHHonosoe mehesdm cappeh n @8090 mayonas: coHHonpsoeneoz N macaw mN 0N 0H HNNd'K) wechuean haunssq 39 Chart I Linear Dimensional Change Jib ‘kfl. 4//./:/’271 ////2] Mean Per cent — A i a ‘75. v ‘r 10 Laundry Intervals . Controlled Laundry Group Non-controlled Laundry Group D Fabric Squares 4O .4 mHe>nean.hnonseA 0 ed 0.. mundane. n 7 b a d. c saw 0" O. h D D b b vh” ”N u . 9 on B u .b» m. Tu m u. 9. u 0.. IW.‘ .9.» sh.“ .63 and; mopesum cappeh emsego HesOHmnoEHauaN phone 7 mebnean hacnseq n D in e$ .ne % run. 63 guessed.ueqn 41 36.8 35.6 nonesum D 8.33.5 @ Ecuado- oaupeh voHHonpnooanoz cOHHoHpnoo 0a 6e 56 163 mg“ 0 a J u a... u; u; .m; w d . — - a. n .0.— 7... .0; 10.. u u a... .m. .M. .m. .M. o )P )F k h j /A 1 ma 27 1 jfl/ .. .... / // .... / .... ///fl 1... .9. r .6.— .C. o. m“ n W ; a B .4 M; U. .m; V .m; a n 0 dd r0.« .6.“ o.“ m. aoem - quHHHh enfim necHsonm pmsm caucus successoean.weaaaaawun pause 42 for the fabric squares is higher than the shrinkage for the uniforms (Chart I p. 39). However. the former is a truer picture of the actual shrinkage since care was taken to avoid stretchage in drying or in ironing the fabric. Approximately one-half of the warp shrinkage occurred after the first laundering and had reached its maximum by the twentieth (Chart 2 p. 40). The non-controlled uniform group shows an increase in width. while the controlled uniform group and the fabric squares show a decrease (Chart 3 p. 41). This would indicate that the fit of a laundered garment depends to a great extent upon the individual care given to it in the laundering process. Davison (3) reported three-fifths of the total shrinkage occurred after the first laundering. This finding is slightly higher than that for the Kolor Kloth. Hays (8) cited. with.but few exceptions ginghams. shantungs. and poplins shrank more than 3 percent in the filling. This is slightly higher than the filling shrink- age of the uniform fabric. The shrinkage in the filling was not great enough to make an appreciable difference in the fit of the uniforms. No girls gained enough weight to cause a change in width measurements. Only two girls of the fifty-five changed height sufficiently to warrant letting out the heme of their uniforms. even though the warpwise shrinkage was over 5 percent. This. no doubt. was due to the current fashion for short skirts. Design and workmanship: The writer made a study of 43 the design and workmanship of the garments in relation to service. The shirtwaist style. without exception. holds up better under actual usage than the princess style. (See Appendix uniform sketches D p.56 and G p. 59.) Table 8 p.44 is a summarization of the findings of the "Wearer's Record of the Care of Uniforms" Chart C (Appendix p. 54.) ‘Without exception the neckline and placket tears are in the princess style uniforms. This. no doubt. is the fault of the girls not opening the placket its full length. and not the fault of the style of the garment. The inexperience of the Power machine girls in sewing on the bias at the center front neck edge is partly responsible for the breaks at this particular point. Hewever. no such breaks are found in the shirtwaist style garment. The buttonholes that need re-working are in the princess style garment. Students coments in regard to the fit and style indicate preference for the shirtwaist type. This type fits better. because the waistline falls nearer the normal waistline of the average figure than does the princess style. even though both.sty1es are cut for the short. medium or long waisted person. There is greater freedom through the shoulder area because of the fullness at the bottom of the yokeline in the shirtwaist style. The girls in the Clothing. Cosmetology. Foods. and Heusehold management Shops work with their hands and arms a great deal and have need for freedom through the shoulder region. As a result of this study the shirtwaist style uniform.is being adapted as the standard design for the school. 44 amHHoa HammammeHe .oae nHaa .xoapmaHH .maaaum econ www muse» use eeHon cHe¢ is .9 0 phone NHuneag< com * mm m o o a HH 0 o n m ¢ ¢ 0 w H n N CH w n n o o n d N m o 9 NH mmmHepawmaH hnwwsaH H Hence msuouHob.eoHHoupaoonsoz Hence NEONfi‘LQN H NH mN om OH H anbnean hucqscH mahoanD voHHonpnoo msuoanD Ho once we euoeem e.neneozwwhnssasmuss erca wwwmnHmpm wweaospo meHonsoapsm Hem HOXOGHQ oaHHaooz muaezfoz 45 Conclusions It would seem from this study that laboratory tests are not adequate in determining the durability of a fabric but they do give a basis for prophesying. Fairly reliable pre- dictions can be made using breaking strength as a measure if these values are considered on the basis of the original breaking strength values. This study indicates that variabi- lity within the same fabric. under identical service. limits the predictive value of the breaking strength results. At the end of the 25th laundering the breaking strength of the fabric had decreased approximately 25 percent warpwise and 31 percent fillingwise due to laundry and body wear. Fabrics treated as in this study can be expected to shrink lengthwise throughout the first year of service. Ap- proximately one-half of the warp residual shrinkage occurred after the first laundering. and reached its maximum.after the second laundering. The warp shrinkage was sufficient to war- rant preshrinking the fabric before making it into uniforms but the filling shrinkage was insignificant. The warp elongation increased similarly in all groups and the filling elongation decrease varied with the method of care. As a group all colors showed excellent oolorfastness to light and perspiration and all colors proved satisfactory in the school controlled laundry group. although the peach and green prov- ed unsatisfactory in the home non-controlled laundry group. The four colors showed negligible differences in yarn count and neither laundering method showed a noticeable shifting 46 of yarns. The white fabric was the most markedly sized and gave the least satisfactory service. The princess style uniform did not render as satis- factory service as did the shirtwaist style. The dissatis- faction with the uniforms appeared to be due to improper laundering methods. design of garment. and to imperfections in the workmanship of the inexperienced Power machine girls. While a one year study is not long enough to determine the final durability of a fabric similar to the Kolor Kloth it does indicate the trends. Further study is desirable and several changes in procedure could be made. A larger number of uniforms should be withdrawn for testing purposes and the use of only one group of girls directly under the supervision of the person making the study would eliminate many diffi- culties in securing data. The incorporation of uniforms sent to a commercial laundry could be made to determine whether or not there are variances in home and commercial methods. l. 2. 4. 5. 47 Recommendations Labels with the following laundering instructions be placed on the uniforms sold to the girls: 1. 2. 5. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Use mild soap flakes. preferably Ivory or Lux- Use moderately warm water 112-15o F. for blue and peach colors 115-1200 F. for green and white colors Run washer 2-3 minutes to dissolve flakes and make good suds. Remove stains. Place soiled garment in washer. run 8-10 minutes. Rinse 2-3 times very thoroughly in same temperature water. Hang in shade to dry. Dampen and iron carefully to avoid stretchage. Caution: Too hot water and strong soaps will cause discoloration. Adaption of the shirtwaist style uniform as a standard for the school. The school purchase fabrics that will meet the followa ing specifications: 1. 2. Yarn count 54‘! 50 Breaking strength warp 55-60 pounds Filling 45-50 pounds weight per square yard 4-5 ounces Sizing 1-2 percent Residual shrinkage 3 percent or less *Colorfastness: To light: Class 4 or 5 To parapiration: Class.A To laundering: Class 3 or better Pro-testing of fabric by the school's Textile Labora- tory for determination of the fabric quality. That another color be substituted for the peach. * Reference (14) Summary Two groups of high school girls were selected at random to wear the uniforms used in this study. One group of uni- forms representing three different shops was laundered at school by the writer under carefully controlled conditions while a second group was laundered at home by the girls under varying conditions. The measurable physical characteristics for the fabric from the two groups of uniforms were compared with the original and laundered fabric squares to determine whether or not the causes for dissatisfaction were due to causes inherent within the fabric. to imprOper laundering methods. variability of wear in the different shops. to structural design and workmanship or to a combination of these factors. Physical Properties: An analysis of the physical pro- perties of the new Kolor Kloth after the first laundering showed no significant differences in breaking strength. elongation. or shrinkage. Breaking Strength: The fabrics in this study were by no means worn out at the end of the school year as the breaking strength showed a decrease of approximately 20-25 percent warpwise and 30-35 percent fillingwise. On this basis the uniforms. as far as breaking strength indicated. were approximately half worn out. This finding was further substantiated by actual usage of a two year school period. Elongation: At the end of this experiment the warp elongation had increased approximately 4 percent and the 49 filling had decreased approximately 3 percent. After the 25th laundering an analysis of variance of the warp elonga- tion showed no significant differences in the average of the fabric squares. controlled uniforms. or non-controlled uni- forms. This was not true for the filling elongation as the average 22.65 percent for the fabric squares was significant- ly greater than the average 20.36 percent for the controlled uniforms. While the warp elongation increased similarly in all three groups the filling elongation decrease varied with the method of care. 1332,923p3: There were no significant differences in the yarn count warpwise or fillingwise in the four different colors of the fabrics; each having a fairly high and well balanced yarn count. Colorfastness: All colors rated as having "Class 5 oolorfastness to light" and "Class A oolorfastness to nor- mal perspiration". At the end of this study the colors in the uniforms in the school controlled laundry group rated as having."Class 2 oolorfastness to laundering”. The peach color in the non-controlled group showed appreciable color change by the 13th laundering and the blue and green showed appreciable change by the 20th laundering. The method of laundering was a principle factor in the dissatisfaction with the color changes in the fabrics. l§h§i§§ggg'$§_laundering: The mean percentage of the warp residual shrinkage for the fabric squares was 5.62} - .09 and the filling 1.39 l - .04. Approthately 50 one-third of the warp shrinkage occurred after the first laundering and had reached its maximum by the 20th launder- ing. Approximately one-third of the filling shrinkage oc- curred after the first laundering and had reached its maxi- Jnum by the second laundering. The warpwise shrinkage of Kolor Kloth was sufficient to warrant pre-shrinkage before sewing into garments. The filling shrinkage was negligible. Sizing: 0n the basis of sizing the fabrics seemed to fall into two groups. the white and green being markedly sized and the peach and blue had little dressing. weight pgg_Sguare zggg; There was little or no differ- ence in the weight of the blue. green and peach fabric; the white had approximately 16 percent more sizing than the other three. Cg;g_2§ Uniforms: Laboratory tests on swatches showed that temperatures of water above 112-1150r. for the peach and blue and above 120°F. for the green would cause dis- coloration. Excess alkali in the soaps. incomplete removal of soil. and poor rinsing likewise contributed to color changes. Design and Workmanship: A study of design and workman- ship of the garments in relation to service revealed that ‘the shirtwaist style uniform held up better in actual usage than the princess style. As a result of this study the shirtwaist style uniform has been adopted as the standard for the school. It appears from an analysis of the findings in this 50aj study that the dissatisfaction with the uniforms was due to improper laundering methods. design of the garment. imper- fections in the workmanship of the inexperienced Power Mach- ine girls and was not due to factors inherent within the fabric nor to variability in wear in the various shops. APPENDIX N“‘{‘{‘4n“““ 0 -w441144» ,.. . \ . l. J _..: x t ‘ 1‘ a . e : A--SWATCHES .I’lli 1‘5... 328a 5 peanuts! acts: 5 .233 .mé .3 sea Hay 2050:: .N cc>m .H ecHHsom new maHoncoppsm on mmo .N no .H usovvsm Hov . maHemonm an m.N-H tones av moceaeoma< Huhoaeo use HHac monawtx tHHHmem moncHng eHnepuomsoeaD o e no 0 an): H : easesea steepness. l huonscq gamma “tenses «seam n 82 . mmHm mamausomm swam 5mm mucusomm msmomHz: N M x a. 5.9: M03 manna mean... meozmm mmHSm .Hv. mfio u M N, Hvu 4 Up» cusses oHneneoncoo .m pmHte meow Seem euseno panHm .N BOHoH emw=vH a&<.xoem sue have: eucezo 02 .H =0H\H veeumea ca monocH mHAHemsanu nQHm whoononm snulofimam cahOHoo mHGOEmhsmmeE mumme mo eHa . finial“) CHART C WEARERWS RECORD CARE OF UNIFORMS T L No change 1 SChOOl naundry . Home laundry A Slight change 7 ~010T Qgcontrolled 3 we. x I 3. Considerable change. XNot instructed 20 1 2 3 A 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 .. _——..__.- _...... _.-. K Tine fcr Drying (min.) i 9 AN «Hue... / ~. a ‘ \-} UMUCLQL‘I a) \CLILCL‘.) I ) (b) ,nside } J m- . T . . T 1 11mg for ironing (min.) i f (a) Eta“ iron (check) § ) (h) 721e21e , ; Eu.— 7 ’1 Finished irreerancc (check) ) , A- (a) Good /-. . I (D) F'lr ' (C) Dcor Tlrte JCT I‘“LSSiI1" (”7171.) betwec: Launéries ) L.____ . F.) I N ( W G? Where?' Headed? L t. Chs;b C 5* LER'S RLCORD Date Purchased Date Eithdrawn )< Days laundered at Home (non-instructed) 55 ®Schcol - Controlled 56 Clothing Uni form-D ‘ it '- ” \E‘XQJ I ———--Indicates Linear and Width Measurements W and F--Warp and Filling Breaking Strength Strips 57 Cosmetologleniform-E -——--Indicates Linear and Width Measurements W and F--Warp and Filling Breaking Strength Strips 58 Foods UniformpF ‘ Nil 5 / ° \ W and F--Warp and Filling Breaking Strength Strips -——~-Indicates Linear and Width Measurements 59 Household Management Uniform-G V W. ' O I l r- r ~____.—J ___ Air W and F--Warp and Filling Breaking Strength Strips -—--Indicates Linear and Width Measurements Laundry Intervals New First hfl Second Pfl Third >fl Fourth i Fifth Yarn Count Fabric Squares Controlled Group Number per Inch Blue ‘White Peach Squares Squares Squares W. F. W. F. W. F. 46 49 54 49 54 51 54 49 54 49 55 49 53 48 54 48 54 50 53 49 54 49 55 50 .553). as. 54 _._.._.48 is. .59... 54 49 54 49 54 50 55 5O 56 51 56 53 55 51 54 50 56 51 56 51 54 52 54 51 56 51 55 52 54 51 .___.._5'7 .20... .29.. .523... 53 3;. 56 51 55 51 55 52 54 50 54 52 57 51 55 50 55 52 54 51 54 51 53 51 55 52 55~ 51 54 50 55 51 _§§_.’51_ 55 51 54 52 55 51 54 51 55 51 54 51 55 50 55 52 55 51 53 52 55 51 55 51 54 54 54 53 55 51 55 52 54 51 55 51 55 51 55 52 ‘EET"51' ”525'"55" ’55”‘"5§’ 54 51 53 50 56 51 55 50 53 52 53 50 55 50 53 49 52 53 55 51' 55 51 54 52 56 51 53 52 53 54 55 51 54 51 54 52 55 51 50 51 55 51 54 51 52 52 55 52 55 52 54 52 54 52 56 49 54 54 55 52 55 51 55 51 55 51 ""EET"5hT '55""52” “55"”557' Green Squares W. F. 56 47 55 45 55 46 54 46 54 .ng_ 55 46 54 48 55 47 54 47 56 46 54 47 55 47 56 47 55 46 55 47 54 48 53 47 55 47 56 47 55 46 55 48 54 47 53 46 55 47 56 49 54 48 54 47 55 ' 48 54 47 56 47 55 46 54 48 54 49 55 47 55 48 Yarn Count (continued) Fabric Squares Controlled Group Number per Inch Laundry Blue ‘White Peach Green Intervals Squares Squares Squares Squares W. F. W. F. W. F. W. F. Tenth 54 51 53 52 54 51 55 46 54 51 54 53 55 52 55 49 55 51 53 51 55 52 55 48 55 52 53 52 55 52 55 48 55 52 53 52 55 52 56 47 . X 55 51 "53" 52 '55 ”5'2" 55 45. Twenti- 55 52 53 53 56 53 54 50 eth ,54 52 53 53 55 52 55 48 54 51 54 53 55 51 54 47 55 52 54 53 55 52 54 49 55 _§;_ 53 53 55 52 54 _4§_ i 5 5 2 ”5'3“ “5’3 ‘5‘5‘ " ”—5 2 """5 5"“ 48 Twenty- 54 52 54 53 55 52 55 50 fifth 57 52 53 53 55 53 54 49 55 53 53 53 55 52 56 48 54 51 54 54 55 52 55 48 54 51 53 53 55 52 55 49 r "'55“ "5'2“ "S‘s ”5:3" "‘5" 5" "'52“ ”5'5"" ‘4‘”9 62 Yarn Count-éUniforms Number per Inch Laundry Intervals Controlled Uniforms* Non-controlled Uniforms* ‘Warp Filling Warp Filling First 55 52 51 53 55 52 49 54 54 51 50 52 56 ‘ 52 53 51 __ 55 55 49 __52 x 55 52 "5‘? 53" 56 51 - 56 49 ~ 56 50 55 50 56 50 54 ~ 51 56 50 53 51 __ 33; 50 54 52 X 56 50 54 51 57 5O 55 51 56 51 56 51 __. 57 51 X 56 51 Tenth 53 46 53 49 53 48 54 52 53 48 55 53 53 48 56 53 __D 53 _gg__ 56 53 X 53 48 55 52 54 53 54 48 54 52 55 49 53 54 54 47 54 52 53 45 ___ _§g_ 53 53 48 X 54 53 54 47 Twenti- 54 50 56 52 eth 53 49 57 51 54 50 55 53 55 49 54 53 __ 56 ___49 54 53 X 54 45' 55 52 *Uniforms withdrawn from study. Laundry Intervals Twenti- eth Twenty- fifth Yarn Count-~Uniforms (continued) NI 9% PW k“ >fl HI ~>fl Warp Controlled Uniforms* Filling 51 51 52 52 53 52 52 52 53 Warp 56 56 56 56 54 ’55‘ 50 50 54 54 56 ‘55" Non-controlled Uniforms* Filling Laundry Intervals New >fl First >fl Tenth P4 Twenti- eth hfl Twenty- fifth 2’ Breaking Strength in Pounds Strip method 70°F. 40% R.N. *Blue *White *Peach Squares Squares Squares V: e F e. 1 iv e F e V: e F o 53 42 54 40 58 50 56 45 55 41 59 51 59 46 58 41 60 52 6O 5O 59 42 61 53 62 54 6O 44 62 54 58 47 57 42 60 52 58 47 50 41 57 47 59 48 52 41 57 49 61 49 52 49 58 49 61 50 55 50 60 49 61 50 59 53 61 50 60 49 54 47 59 49 49 42 47 41 49 4O 50 48 47 42 53 4O 52 48 48 48 53 42 52 48 49 48 53 42 53 51 50 49 59 42 51 47 48 46 53 41 50 45 43 4O 45 37 51 45 47 41 48 38 51 46 50 43 .51 38 56 47 50 45 51 4O 57 48 51 47 52 41 53 46 48 43— 49 39 48 28 4O 29 42 30 49 3O 41 3O 44 33 52 31 41 33 44 34 53 31 41 40 45 37 54 32 42 41 5O 39 51 3O 41 35 35 *Fabric Squares Controlled Group 45 *Green Squares W. F. 55 4O 58 41 59 41 59 42 6O 43 58 41 51 39 52 4O 52 42 53 43 58 43 53 41 50 36 50 39 50 4O 51 4O 52 4O 51 39 47 38 48 38 50 4O 50 40 50 42 45 4O 37 29 4O 31 40 32 42 32 47 36 41 32 64 65 Breaking Strength in Pounds Strip Fethod 70°F. 40% R. H. Laundry Intervals Controlled Uniforms* Non-controlled Uniforms** Warp Filling Warp Filling First 51 43 50 38 55 48 50 43 59 49 51 48 59 5O 52 49 _ 62 51 54 50 X 57 48 51 46 5O 42 45 29 53 45 45 32 53 48 5O 39 53 4O 51 39 _ 58 49 52 40 X 53 45 49 36 50 49 59 49 62 49 62 50 _ 64 50 X 59 49 Tenth 47 4O 39 33 47 4O 4O 34 48 41 41 35 48 43 42 35 _ 4a 45 45 38 X 48 41 41 35 41 34 45 35 44 37 49 4O 46 38 50 4O 46 38 ‘ 50 41 _ 51 4o 51 45 X 46 37 49 4O Twenti- 38 25 31 22 8th 40 27 32 25 4O 27 33 25 41 31 39 3O _ 42 36 4o 51 X 40 29 35 27 * and ** uniforms withdrawn from study 66 Breaking Strength (continued) Strip Method 70°F. 40% R. H. Laundry Intervals Controlled Uniforms* Non-controlled Uniforms** Warp Filling Warp Filling Twenti- 34 29 43 23 eth 35 3O 43 29 39 27 45 3O 39 31 46 32 ._ 39 31 51 33 X 37 3O 46 29 4O 26 42 26 43 33 49 29 43 4O 50 35 45 41 5O 35 49 45 52 35 it 44 57 49 52 Twenty- 45 26 39 29 fifth 46 32 4O 29 46 33 4O 25 46 34 42 22 48 _41_ 29 18 2 "4"5 55 '40' '25"- 43 3O 39 21 47 31 41 24 47 32 43 24 50 34 4O 26 _ 50 4o ' 59 54 X 47 33 4O 26 35 28 36 3O 39 31 39 38 _ 45 38 X 39 33 46 25 46 25 50 31 52 34 _ 44 29 X 48 29 4O 25 42 29 42 32 43 35 _, 45 40 X "42' "32_ f laundry Intervals Percent First Percent Tenth Percent Twenti- eth Percent Twenty- fifth Percent I' i’ >fl 'i Elongation in Percent Strip Method 3-inch gauge length 67 * Fabric Squares Controlled Group *Blue *White *Peach *Green Squares Squares Squares Squares 24 F. 13 F. 1?. F. 1?. F. .05 .60 .30 .80 .17 .53 .19 .90 .12 .70 .15 .75 .17 .53 .12 .62 .13 .65 .30 .60 .20 .60 .20 .79 .13 .60 .20 .80 .18 .70 .20 .69 .14 .61 .30 .80 .21 .60 .20 .62“ .11 .63 .25 .75 .186 .59 .59 .706 3.66 21.00 8.30 25.00 6.20 19.60 6.00 23.50 .31 .80 .52 1.00 .34 .90 .20 .80 .3 .80 .51 .92 .30 .90 .25 .80 .19 .87' .52 .89 .28 .83 .30 .78 .30 .83 .40 .90 .28 .80 .30 .80 .30 .81 .49 .81 .30 .90 .3 .80 .26 .82 .49 .90 .30 .87 .27 .796 9.30 27.30 16.30 30.0010.00 29.00 9.00 26.50 .20 .99 .3 .59 .20 .74 .30 .70 .30 . 8 .45 .60 .30 .70 .28 .60 .3 .75 .46 .80 .30 .77 .23 .60 .30 .79 .47 .70 .29 .72 .31 .61 .29 .80 .40 .80 .30 .81 .34 .65 .28 .82 .42 .70 .28 .75 .29 .63 9.30 27.30 14.00 23.30 9.30 25.00 9.6 21.00 .20 .50 .50 .62 .2 .67 .80 .71 .35 .70 .51 .62 .21 .62 .30 .61 .20 .70 .50 .71 .28 .72 .31 .71 .26 .70 .45 .70 .20 .68 .35 .70 .21 .65 .48 .72 .20 .66 .25_ .70 .24 .65 .49 .67 .22 .67 .30 .69 8.00 21.60 16.30 22.30 7.30 22.30 10.00 23.00 .28 .62 .40 .54 .22 .77 .30 .77 .35 .67 .49 '.50 .22 .60 .37 .70 .24 .68 .50 .71 .25 .69 .30 .68 .23 .68 .55 .70 .31 .72 .29 .70 o 22 0'79— .41 .77 .31 080 031 064 .26 .67 .47 .64 .26 .72 .31 .70 8.60 22.30 15.60 21.30 8.60 24.00 10.30 23.30 68 Elongation in Percent Strip Nethod 3-inch gauge length Laundry Intervals Controlled Uniforms* Hon-controlled Uniforms** harp Filling Warp Filling Few .05 .60 .30 .80 .12 .70 .15 .75 .13 .60 .30 .60 .13 .65 .20 .80 __' .14 .61 .3 .80 X .11 .63 .25 .75 Percent 3.66 21.00 8.30 25.00 First .20 .80 .40 .65 .30 .90 .49 .70 .25 .70 .39 .75 .38 .73 .37 .90 ___ .40 .83 .47 .77 X .31 .79 .42 .75 Percent 10.30 26.30 14.00 25.00 .20 .83 .20 .50 .22 .80 .20 .75 .47 .87 .20 .70 .30 .88 .21 .59 __ .29 .84 .20 .70 X .30 ‘ .84 .20 .65 Percent 10.00 28.00 6.60 21.60 .03 .80 .15 .80 .35 .70 .32 .80 .27 80 "if .22 4'7“. 8 Percent 7.30 26.00» Tenth .20 .52 .30 .60 .29 .52 .30 .65 .30 .65 .34 .60 .25 .60 .52 .64 _ .22 .50 .40 .60 X .25 .56 .37 .68 Percent 8.30 18.60 12.30 20.60 .19 .51 .15 .43 .18 .60 4.20 .40 .27 .61 .21 .43 .23 .65 .21 .43 ___ .21 .62 .21 .60 X .22 .60 .20 .46 Percent 7.30 20.00 6.60 15.30 69 Elongation (continued) Strip NethOd 3-inch gauge length Laundry Intervals Controlled Uniforms* Hon-controlled Uniforms** Warp Filling Warp Filling TV‘Tenti" o 25 050 031 0 6O eth .25 .54 .30 .57 .23 .50 .25 .60 .23 .52 .30 .63 _. .32 .65 .25 .65 X .26 .54 .28 .61 Percent 8.60 18.00 9.30 20.30 .40 .50 .24 .59 .30 .60 .40 .68 .36 .60 .37 .60 .25 .61 .23 .61 _' .25 .60 .23 .69 X .31 .58 .29 .63 Percent 10.30 19.30 9.60 21.00 .15 .43 .25 .60 .25 .50 .30 .67 .21 .42 .30 .50 .22 .47 .29 .60 _, .20 ._;é§_ .30 .55 X .21 .45 .29 .58 Percent 7.00 15.00 9.60 19.30 Twenty- .20 .59 .27 .51 fifth .21 .60 .40 .54 .30 .69 .40 .60 .20 .57 .45 .55 __ .51 .50 .52 .52 K .24 .61 .37 .54 Percent 8.00 20.30 12.30 18.00 .21 056 .29 .51 .31 .60 .2 .60 .35 .60 .2 .60 .29 .65 .31 .48 __ .50 .62 .5 .55 X .29 .61 .27 .55 Percent 9.60 23.30 9.00 18.30 .40 .59 .25 .55 .40 .57 .25 .57 __ .26 .55 X .31 .57 Percent 10.30 19.00 7O Elongation (continued) Strip method 3-inch gauge length Laundry Intervals Controlled Uniforms* Non-controlled Uniforms** Tarp Filling Warp Filling Twenty- .30 .67 fifth .35 .66 .2 .69 .28 .60 __ .24 .52 X .29 .65 Percent 9.60 21.60 .18 .48 .20 .51 .21 .62 .28 .50 __ .20 .55 X .21 .53 Percent 7.00 17.60 * and ** uniforms withdrawn from study Summary-~Elonaation in Percent Averages Strip Tethod 3-inch gauge length Controlled. Yon-controlled Uniforms. Fabric Squares Laundry Intervals New First Tenth Twenti- eth Twenty- fifth Controlled Uniforms Percent Av. W. F. 6.04 22.27 10.15 27.15 7.80 19.30 8.63 17.43 8.90 20.36 Non-controlled Uniforms Percent Av. R. . 6.04 22.27 9.30 24.20 9.45 17.95 9.50 20.20 10.65 18.15 71 Fabric Squares Percent Av. ‘IV 5"; o 6.04 10.97 10.40 10.40 10.87 F. 22.27 28.22 24.15 22.22 22.65 72. Linear Dimensional Change in Percent Fabric Squares Controlled Group Laundry Intervals First Second Third Fourth Percent Percent Percent Percent *-2.2 -202 ’303 -207 ‘500 '508 -601 -606 -106 -208 -208 -202 -3.3 —3.05 -3.7' -3.7 “1.3002 {.84 II-5046 I009 PT‘3097 [0C8 Elf-3.80 ‘01]. Fifth Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth Percent Percent Percent Percent -309 -500 -500 -505 -6.6 -7.2 -7.7 -7.7 -303 -303 -404 -308 -4.4 -5.5 -5.5 -5.5 Fed Width Dimensional Change in Percent Fabric Squares Controlled Group Laundry Intervals First Second Third Fourth Percent Percent Percent Percent *-207 -404 -303 -303 -0.5 -0.5 -0.5 -O.5 -3.2 -O.8 -0.5 -l.l 140.8 -2.4 -1.1 -1.4 “if-0.6 {.08 1.4-2.0 {.11 41-1755 {.07 1.6-157 .0 Fifth Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth Percent Percent Percent Percent -208 ‘2.8 ‘208 ’208 ‘005 "lol 0.0 -101 -202 “005 -005 ‘lol —l.l -l.l -0.55 -0.55 * Average of 3 measurements based ** M of 12 measurements based on original measurements on original measurements 73 Linear Dimensional Change in Percent* Controlled Uniform Group Laundry Intervals First Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth Percent Percent Percent Percent -5.8 -5.1 -6.5 -6.5 -5.1 -5.1 -5.4 -6.2 -4.5 -5.0 -4.9 -5.0 -400 -500 -409 -409 -3.5 -4.8 -4.8 ~4.9 -3.4 -4.7 ~4.5 -4.8 -3.4 -4.7 -4.4 -4.6 -3.3 ~4.5 -4.4 -4.3 -2.9 -4.5 -4.3 -4.3 -2.8 ~4.4 -4.3 -4.2 -2.8 —4.0 -4.2 -4.1 -208 -4.C -409 ‘400 -2.7 -3.9 -3.8 -4.0 -2.5 -3.7 -3.7 —3.9 -2.3 -3.6 -3.7 -..8 -203 “3.5 ‘306 ‘306 ~2.2 -3.5 -3.6 —3.5 -2.1 -3.4 -3.4 -3.2 -200 -3.3 -3.3 -2.8 -1.9 -2.8 —3.0 -2.6 -1.8 -2.7 -2.9 -2.5 -l.7 -2.7 ~2.6 -1.9 '106 -207 -204 “1.7 ~1.6 ~2.6 —2.4 -106 “2.4 ”1.9 ”106 -204 -106 ”106 -J.l "lol "log —1.0 -l.3 -100 -0.8 M-2.54 {:21 M-3.6 £.36 M-3.8 £116 M43.9 £.26 N-31 N-29 N226 N523 Tithdrawn for testing purposes: 2 2 3 5 Total 12 withdrawn from study-~1 after tenth laundry See Appendix uniform sketches D-E-F-G. All percents are based on original measurements of the uniforms. 74 Linear Dimensional Change in Percent* Non-controlled Uniform Group Laundry Intervals First Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth 1""‘Percent Percent Percent Percent -705 -901 .807 -807 ‘502 -804 ”8.1 .897 -5.1 -5.9 -6.5 -6.5 ‘404 ‘509 “6.0 -601 -3.5 -5.7 -5.9 -6.1 -3.5 -5.7 -5.7 -5.3 -3.2 -5.2 -5.3 -4.8 -302 -408 ‘50]. “4.8 -209 -406 -408 ‘402 ~2.8 -4.4 -4.8 -4.2 -2.8 -4.3 ~4.3 -4.1 -207 -308 ’40]. -309 -207 -306 “4.0 -206 ‘20? ”304 "309 -107 -206 -3.3 -309 -294 -302 ‘206 -203 -209 ‘104 -202 -205 “201 -106 -l.9 -l.l -108 -101 -l.7 -101 -0 9 “-5053 2030 “-1015 2.4: n‘506 20:3 “-50: 2052 N324 N:21 Nzl7 N-l4 Withdrawn for testing purposes: 3 2 3 2 Total 10 Withdrawn from study-«2 after tenth laundry * See Appendix uniform sketches D-E-F-G. ** All percents are based on original measurements of the uniforms. 75 Twenty-fifth Percent Twentieth Percent Controlled Uniform Group Percent Bust-Dimensional Change in Percent* Tenth First **Percent Laundry'Intervals .69 8 7655482819311954439nle73 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 6555544552222111110m0w0 o ....lflflf.lr.lf..lf..lf.... . e 596582858753110006544973320 O O O O O O O O O O O C O O O O O O C O O O O C 655544332222229m21111000000 0 ..../rlflf.lf..lr_...lf...lr..lr- "m o 5534.3159753118754499988663nw00 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 8665554.222229m11111nW00000nW00o00 0 ..../f./f.lf.lr..lrlf... .lr./r.lr. Mm O 3 6 $122828324:4.6443597777765333300 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O nio766Kw5444 .322111110000000000000000 ...-..I.r/rIr./r.lr.lr-lrlr.lr-lflflr...... . N-23 5 Total 12 N-26 3 N329 2 2 All percents are based on original measurements of the See Appendix uniform sketches DéEéF-G. uniforms. Withdrawn from study--1 after tenth laundry Withdrawn for testing purposes: N331 a: ** 76 Bust-Dimensional Change in Percent* Non-controlled Uniform Group Laundry’Intervals First Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth **Peroent Percent Percent Percent $9.4 $9.4 $9.9 $9.4 $5.4 $5.7 $8.0 $7.3 $4.9 4.0 $5.0 4.6 $305 ”3.7 -401 -401 #209 -305 -306 -309 $2.8 $3.4 $2.6 -2.6 -2.6 $3.3 -2.6 $2.0 $2.4 $3.1 $2.4 -1.8 $2.4 $2.6 $2.1 $1.7 $2.4 -2.6 $1.7 $1.5 $1.6 $2.4 -1.6 $0.8 $1.2 $2.1 $1.5 $0.6 $1.1 $1.8 $1.1 $0.4 $1.0 $1.4 $0.8 $0.3 £100 -193 11007 -1.0 $1.2 $0.5 $0.8 -1.2 $0.0 $0.8 $1.1 $0.7 $0.7 $0.7 $0.6 $0.7 $0.3 -0 6 $0 3 0 0 N8 24 N32]. N817 N814 Withdrawn for testing purposes: 3 2 -3 2 Total 10 Withdrawn from study--2 after tenth laundry * See Appendix uniform sketches DAEéF-G. ** All percents are based on original measurements of the uniforms. 77 Twenty-fifth Percent Twentieth Percent .Percent Controlled Uniform Group Tenth Shoulder Back-Dimensional Change in Percent* First Laundry Intervals *fPercent 4619Aw30877766599987 574.00 00.0 .0000. ooe eeeee 4. 54322221111111000000000 o ..If...lflflflr...lflflf.lr... n.U 96412965321987765098754300 0 C O O O O C O O O O O O O C C O O O O O C O O C 54.4.4.3222222111111100000000 1 ..lf....../f.../rlr.lf.lr/rlr..- . w... e r! 965994.93a0e54311765310987543220 “ O O 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 754.3339m9m2222221111110006000000 0 .lflrlr..-.If..lr..If../rlr.lr......lf Hm an. IF 3 M 9750954329887322229999965432100 8 eeee eeeo eeeeoeeeeoe oeeoeeeo e 544432222111111111000OAWOOOOOOOO 0 ..If.--/f..lr...lr..lf..lf.lr.l-I.Ir.I—Ilf . 23 5 Total 12 N329 N:26 31 Withdrawn from study-ol after tenth laundry uniforms. ‘Withdrawn for testing purposes: ** All percents are based on original measurements of the * See appendix uniform sketches D-Eér-G 78 Shoulder Back-Dimensional Change in Percent“ Non-controlled Uniform Group Laundry Intervals First Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth 1MPercent Percent Percent Percent $4.5 $7.3 $8.3 $6.5 $3.3 $3.5 $5.1 $6.1 -205 -208 /402 £401 {205 £205 -401 “401 $2.2 $2.3 $2.5 -2.8 $2.2 $1.8 -2.5 -2.5 $1.8 71.7 $2.1 $2.5 -107 #102 £201 -203 $1.6 $1.2 $1.9 -1.8 $1.5 $0.9 -1.9 $1.3 $1.2 -O.8 —1.9 $1.2 $1.1 $0.8 $1.7 $0.9 £100 #007 'les £0.02 $0.8 -0.5 $1.0 $0.08 $0.8 $0.4 $0.0 $0.8 -0.2 0.0 $0.5 $0.1 0.0 -004 #0 009 -0 04 #0 001 $0.1 0.0 0.1 0.0 “0001 0.0 0 0 . . EPZTTTV“ZTUE ET7T76TTZT€§ 0. . N.24 N221 N317 N=14 Withdrawn for testing purposes: 3 2 3 2 Total 10 Withdrawn from study-~2 after tenth laundry * See Appendix uniform sketches D-E-F-G. ** All percents are based on original measurements of the uniforms. 79 Hips-Dimensional Change in Percent* Controlled.Uniform Group Laundry Intervals First Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth *‘Percent Percent Percent Percent $8.9 $8.2 $8.9 $8.9 -6.5 ~5.4 $6.6 $5.0 -5.4 #500 -307 -4e4 $5.0 $4.2 $3.1 -3.8 -4.5 -3.1 . -3.o $2.3 #304 -209 -297 /2.0 $2.8 -2.7 $2.3 -1.7 2.8 -2.5 $2.2 -1.6 -2.5 -2.3 $2.1 $1.5 -2.4 $2.0 -1.7 -1.5 -204 “1.7 “106 -105 $2.2 -1.7 -1.5 -1.4 {201 -106 -103 #104 -2.0 $1.4 $1.2 -1.3 -1.9 -1.3 -1.2 -1.2 -108 #103 -102 -101 $1.7 -1.2 -0.9 -1.0 -105 -102 -009 -007 $1.3 -1.2 -0.8 -0.4 $1.3 -1.1 -o.7 $0.3 -101 #009 -004 000 -0.9 -0.9 -0.4 0.0 $0.7 -0.7 $0.3 0.0 $0.6 -0.6 $0.3 -0.6 -0.6 0.0 -0.6 -0.5 0.0 ‘003 /0e3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 M’O. 5 2107 H-0034 2048 M;0019 Zozg fi‘OeOl 2053 n.31 N229 N326 N323 Withdrawn from study for testing purposes: 2 2 3 5 Total 12 ‘Withdrawn from study--l after tenth laundry * See Appendix uniform sketches D-EéF-G. ** All percents are based on original measurements of the uniforms. 80 Hips-Dimensional Change in Percent* Non-controlled Uniform Group Laundry Intervals First Tenth Twentieth Twenty-fifth **Percent Percent Percent Percent $5.4 $6.9 $8.3 $7.9 {5.0 {5.4 -401 “4.1 $4.8 -4.4 4.1 $3.8 $4.2 $4.2 -3.5 $3.5 $2.9 $3.2 -3.2 -3.4 $2.6 $3.0 $2.9 $2.6 $2.5 $3.0 $2.6 $1.1 $1.3 -2.6 $2.6 -1.1 #103 #206 $101 -000 $1.3 -1.4 -1.1 $0.7 $1.1 -1.2 $1.1 $0.6 $1.1 -1.1 $0.9 $0.6 $1.1 $1.0 -0.9 $0.3 $0.9 $0.9 $0.7 0.0 $0.7 $0.7 /O.6 $0.6 $0.66 0.0 $0.6 -0.6 0.0 $0.44 $0.6 -001 -0055 000 -003 0.0 $0.3 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.5 . E 70.96 7.57 WO'JTT‘T. 1' F7015? 7.75 N=24 N=21 Ngl7 N=l4 ‘Withdrawn for testing purposes: 3 2 3 2 Total 10 Withdrawn from study--2 after tenth laundry * See Appendix uniform sketches DéE-F-G. ** All percents are based on original measurements of the uniforms. l. 2. 5. 6. 7. 8. 10. 11. 12. 13. 81 Bibliography American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. Yearbook of A.A.T.C.&C. XIX. 1942. 806 pp. American Society for Testing Materials. Committee D-lS. ... Standards on Textile materials. Philadelphia: American Society for Testing Materials. 1940. pp. 33-38. Davison. Suzanne. The Effect of wear and Laundering Upon White Cotton Fabrics (unpublished M.A. th881s. University of Missouri. 1933). 58 numbered leaves. Downey. K. Melvina. and Elmquist. Ruth E. Cotton fabrics as affected by variations in pressure and in length of exposure during ironing. U.S. Dept. Agri. Tech. Bull. 517 (1936). pp. 32. Essam. J.M. The physical properties of fabrics: the effect of yarn and weaving structure. Part I Journal 2;,Textile Instituggrl9 (1928). pp. T37-58. Haven. George B. Handbook of Industrial Fabrics. New York: ‘Wellington Sears Company. 1941 ed.. 789 pp. Hays. MgB. and Frankenberg. G. B. Analysis of 84 qualities of cotton dress prings. Razon Textile Mbnthly 23 (1942). pp. 620-2. 669. ""“” Hays. MLB. Plain weave cotton dress fabrics: analysis of six types. Journal of Heme Economics 35 (1943). PD 0 363-66 0 Hess. K. Textile Fibers and Their Uses. Revised. New Ybrk: J.B. Lippincott Co.. 1941. 530 pp. Hoye. John. Staple Cotton Fabrics. New York: MOGrawa Hill Book Company. Inc.. 1942. 241 pp. Jacobsen and MCCullough. Fundamentals of Textiles. New York: John Wiley & Sons. Inc.. 1941. pp. 51-53. Mercier. A. A. and Schoffstall. C .W. Effect of twist on cotton arns. Bureau of Standards Journal Research ; (1928?. pp. 7 3- 50. " Morrison. Bess M} Physical characteristics of slip- cover fabrics as a guide to their serviceability. Journal 2: Home Economics §§|(1941). pp. 661-667. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 82 National Bureau of Standards. U.S. Dept. of Commerce. Woven Dress Fabrics. Testing and Reporting. Commercial Standards 0859-41 (1941). 35 pp. Rogers. Ruth E.. Hays. MIB. and Wigington. John T. manufacturing and serviceability tests on sheetings made from two selected mill types of cotton. U.S. Dept. Agric. Tech. Bull. 645 (1939). pp. 31. Smenner. Olivia. Analysis of some staple cotton materials used extensively for children's clothing. University of Arkansas College of Agriculture. Agri. Exp. Sta. Bull. 350 (1937), pp. 38. Skinkle. John H. Textile Testing: Physical. Chemical and Microscopical. New York: Chemical Publishing Co.. Inc.. 1940. 267 pp. White. G.R. Physical properties of cotton chambray and covert fabrics. Journal 9: Heme Economics 34 (1942). pp 0 42-50 0 ‘Williams. J.A. The strength of textile fabrics and their satisfaction-giving qualities in conditions of normal use. Journal g£_Textile Institute g3; No. 7 1932. Julzs 4 5 .1:ng 1 6 Aug23" ‘5 6., IIIIIIII ”Twill/1117;} Mal 17111 I11 11171313111311 nu