Tiff . . I?" 2.3x ,2: DRESS AS A MEDIUM OF COMMUNICATION 0F snIIIEIAL IIIEIIIm W " IIIIII PERSONALITY mms PATRIBII ANNE TRAUTMAN \) - .. -..- .---,,~,- 7:. ’53.. 'bm \‘ LIB R A R y ‘ Michigan State UniVenity IIIIIIIII IIIIIII IIIIIIII ,1] OVERWE FINES: 25¢ per dey per item LTUMIE LIBRARY MATERIALS: Place in book return to remove charge from circuiouon records mm . I77 0153 :5 MAC: ‘52 I E I NOV 11,3998 i§§15 I mama ‘1 DEC 311998 I 3 “Q; “#307999 I A‘PSTRACT DRESS AS A MEDIUM OF COMMUNICATION OF SOCIETAL IDENTITY AND PERSONALITY TRAITS by Patricia Anne Trautman The purpose of this study was to verify, empirically, the pOpular assumption that dress communicates aspects of a person's societal identity and personality traits to others, and that the impressions one forms of another based on her appearance are accurate. The investigation approached the problem from two points of view: accuracy of communication and consist- ency of communication. The sample was composed of l3 caucasian females between the ages of 18 and 34 who were majors in corrmunication arts, theatre arts, or secretaries at Michigan State University during spring term of l973. The sample was purposively selected for their age and occupation. 0f the l3 subjects, 12 completed the study. Color slides were taken of each subject wearing . clothing she deemed appropriate for her age and occupation, and that she felt comfortable in and liked. The subjects wore a black mask to avoid positive identification by other participants in the study; each subject was identi- fied only by a number to safeguard her real identity. Each subject completed a socio-economic questionnaire, and the modified Zimmer Scale of Personality ‘Traits. Subjects returned a week later to view the slides of the other participants and complete a socio-economic questionnaire and modified Zimmer Scale of Personality Traits for each one. A For purposes of analysis, responses to each slide were divided into 4 categories dependent on respondent's similarity to the person in the slide in age and/or occupation. Responses to all slides were used in analysis of accuracy of communication of age, socio-economic status, occupation, and personality traits. Responses to 12 slides were analyzed for consistency of communication of personality traits. A multivariate analysis of variance over repeated measures was used to test for accuracy of communication, with level of significance set at .05. Hoyt's ANOVA test of reliability was used for determining consistency of communication, with r = .80. A measure of accuracy of communication through dress entailed comparing the individual's concept of her societal role, and personality traits with how others perceived her societal role and personality traits. A measure of consistency of communication through dress entailed comparing observers' perception of a person's societal role and personality traits regardless of that person's age, occupation, and personality traits. Hypotheses concerning accuracy in perception of age, socio-economic status, occupation and personality traits were not accepted. Amy differences between groups in perception of the above mentioned traits were due to chance. Hypotheses concerning consistency of communication were not/accepted. Due to the small number of subjects and large number of items, the error term was too large for adequate measure of reliability in some cases. In some 'cases, the coefficient which was calculated was unstable. Due to the small original sample size, and resultant few degrees of freedom allowable for statistical testing of the hypotheses, the data were non-conclusive. Based on the statistical analysis of the data, one cannot generalize whether dress was or was not a variable in the communication of societal identity or certain personality traits. DRESS AS A MEDIUM OF COMMUNICATION OF SOCIETAL IDENTITY 'ANO PERSONALITY TRAITS A THESIS by Patricia Anne Trautman Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Human Environment and Design 1973 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The writer wishes to express her appreciation to her advisor, Dr. Anna Creekmore, for her guidance and encouragement; to Dr. Nancy Harries and Ms. Gretel Stensrud for their invaluable suggestions and interest in the study; to Dr. Jo Lynn Cunningham and Ms. Verda Scheifley for their assistance and advice concerning statistical procedure and analysis; and to her parents, Dr. and Mrs. DeForest Trautman for their encouragement and unfailing support. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter I. II. III. IV. VI. INTRODUCTION .......................... REVIEN 0F LITERATURE ......... ' ............. Theoretical Background ..................... Role ............................... Process of Communication .................... Communication of Role ........... ........... Dress and the Communicative Act ................. Selection of a Method of Measuring the Variables ...... _. . STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM .................... Assumptions ........................... Definition of Terms ....... - ................ Hypotheses ........................... PROCEDURE ............................ Refinement of the Measure .................... Socio-economic Questionnaire .................. Selection of the Sample ..................... Data Collection ................ -, ........ Descriptive Statistics and Statistical Procedure ........ RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ..................... Descriptive Data ........................ Hypothesis Testing ....................... Hypothesis IA .......................... Hypothesis IB .......................... Hypothesis IC .......................... Hypothesis ID .......................... Hypothesis IIA ......................... Hypothesis IIB ......................... SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS ..................... Summary ........................ ' ..... Implications ............. . ............ Reconmendations for Further Study ................ BIBLIOGRAPHY .............................. iii ...a MOW-b uh -14> \Zl 24 24 25 26 Page APPESOICES Appendix A. First Pretest .......................... 53 8. Second Pretest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... 59 C. Copy of Final Measure ...................... 65 D. Consent Form .......................... 71 E. Board of Reviewers Consent Form ................. 72 F. Permission to Obtain Lists of Potential Subjects ....... , . 73 iv LIST OF TABLES Table Page l. Frequency of Socio-economic Status Groups by Age and Occupation of Subjects ....... . . . . . ..... . . . . . . . . 34 2. Comparison of Multivariate F-ratio, Degrees of Freedom, and Alpha Level of Hypotheses Testing Accuracy of Communication . . . . 35 3. Relationship between Receiver Similarity in Age and/or Occupation to Transmitter and Accuracy in Perception of Age ....... 35 4. Relationship between Receiver Similarity in Age and/or Occupation to Transmitter and Accuracy in Perception of Socio-economic Status ........... . ................ 36 5. Relationship between Receiver Similarity in Age and/or Occupation to Transmitter and Accuracy in Perception of Occupation . . . 37 6. Relationship between Receiver Similarity in Age and/or Occupation to Transmitter and Accuracy in Perception of Personality Trai ts I 0 O O O O O O I O O. O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 38 7. Reliability Scores for Consistency in Perception of Personality Traits . . ....... . ..... . ...... . ..... 4l CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Human beings communicate with each other when one person sends messages to another which are perceived and responded to in some way. Communication occurs two ways: when an observer perceives the same meaning in the message as the person sending the message, or when several persons observing another are consistent in their observations or inferences concerning the meaning of the message. Communications may be verbal if Spoken, or nonverbal if not spoken or written. A study in nonverbal communication entails presenting a part of a person's nonverbal behavior to a group of observers who act as judges, and measuring the accuracy of the observer's responses and inferences with respect to the message that person believes she sent; and the consistency of several observers' responses and inferences:' Broadly stated, there are three overlapping functions of nonverbal messages: 1. To clarify, confirm, or deny verbal messages. 2. To reveal the attitudes, emotions, and physical state of the observed person. 2 3. To define the observed person's social identity. 1P. Ekman, "Communication through Nonverbal Behavior: A Source of Information about an Interpersonal Relationship", in S. S. Tomkins and G. E. Izard, eds., Affect, Cognition, and Personality_(New York: Springer Press, 1966), p. 390. 2Abne Eisenberg and Ralph Smith, Jr., Nonverbal Communication (New York: The Bobbs-Merrill Company, l97l), p. 35. -2- This study looks at the relationship of dress to the accuracy and consistency of the latter function, related to similarity of age and occupa- tion between observers and the observed person. Cooley stated that the judgments pe0ple make of one another structure most of human interaction.3 Both p0pular and professional conviction is that dress plays an important part in human interaction in forming these judgments. According to Gregory Stone, an individual's role and concept of himself in a socially determined situation is reinforced and strengthened by others when their reaction to, and interpretation of, an individual's nonverbal behavior is the same as that which the individual thinks he projects.4 A person perceives others as having certain character- istics, which classify them according to age, social status, and/or occupa- tion, and personality. Using personal appearance as the clue, dress may affect the formation of impressions of personality or social identity. How or to what extent is not known. In psychological research, studies of accuracy of perception of personality traits have generally shown that accuracy of the observers' judgments was no better than chance. To many this is surprising. Lehtovarra indicated that there is evidence that people not only see others as having specific personality traits, but they are confident that their judgments are accurate.5 The agreement among observers as to perceived 3Charles Cooley, Human Nature and the Social Order (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1922), p. 164. {\-§Gregory Stone, "Appearance and the Self", in Roach and Eicher, eds., Dress, Adornment and the Social Order (New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965), p. 216. . . 5Mary Shaw Ryan, Clothing: A_Stud in Human Behavior (New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, Inc., 1966 , p. 711 -3- personality traits is perhaps one of great importance, yet studies of first impressions conveyed through dress or personal appearance have not treated the data in a way which would resolve the question. CHAPTER II REVIEW OF LITERATURE This chapter includes a discussion of the following: Mead's theoret- ical scheme for social interaction; the process of communication, as the foundation of the interpretative process; and the consistency and accuracy of communication as consequences of the definitive process. Social role and personality traits as aspects of a person's sociological and psychological organization are treated as they apply to Mead's scheme and the process of communication. The rationale for considering dress as a viable clue to a person's psychological and sociological organization, and as a media of communication, is treated in a chronological presentation of empirical research conducted in the area. Lastly, the selection of a method to empir- ically measure the consistency and the accuracy of communication of social role and personality traits through dress is discussed. Theoretical Background Ryan states that a commonly held idea is that dress communicates sex, age, occupation, socioeconomic and marital status, personality traits, mood, attitudes, interests, and values. Furthermore, whether or not the person is or is not known to the observer may not influence that fact of communication, but may influence what is communicated. As the observed person becomes known, or is seen in various costumes, the aspects of that person are communicated. 6 through dress change. Implicit in this thought is the idea of change. 6Ryan, 93. 913., p. 10. -5- Therefore, the theoretical base for research in the area of dress as communi- cation should encompass the idea of process, of change. The central theme implicit in George Herbert Mead's philoSOphy is the notion of process. Furthermore, the Meadian perspective poses the question of the process people go through in the formation of their acts.7 ACcording to Shibutani, pragmatists such as John Dewey, William James, George Mead, and Charles Pierce tried to work out a new way of looking at man and society by directing their attention to activity rather than structure.8 That is to say that they were more interested in the process of social interaction rather than the static factors that may Operate on that interaction. Mead's scheme of human society implicit in his work is constructed by tracing the implication of the central ideas that he analyzes: 1. the self; 2. the act; 3. social interaction; 4. objects; 5. joint action.9 Mead sees the self as an actor. The person is an organism that has a self which is therefore also an object to that person. By separating the self from the person, the self is seen as a process, not a structure, because the self, as an object, and the person can and do interact. In this way the person talks to himself, contemplates further action, or analyzes past action. The act is formed through this process of self-interaction. Implicit in Mead's thought is the idea of change and history. The act has a history #1__ 7Herbert Blumer, Symbolic Interactionism: PerSpective and Method (New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1969), p. 78. 8Tamotsu Shibutani, Society and Personality; An_Interactionist Approach tg_Social Psychology (New Jersey: PrentTCe-Hall, Inc., 1961), p. 14. 9 Blumer, 92, 913,, p. 65. -5- because the person responds to it based on past experience, and this act will become part of the history of successive acts. For Mead there are two forms or levels of social interaction: symbolic and nonsymbolic. "Symbolic interaction involves interpretation, or ascertaining the meaning of the actions or remarks of the other person, and definition, or conveying indications to another person as to how he is to act."10 Human association consists of a constant process of interpretation and definition through which the participants fit their own acts to the ongoing acts of one another and guide others in doing the same. Objects are what people indicate or refer to in their ongoing acts. Since human beings live in a world of objects around which they form activ- ities, and man himself is an object, whose nature is dependent on the orien- tation and action of people toward them, objects form the fundamental pillar 1] There are three types of objects: in social interaction in Meadian thought. physical, social (i.e., pe0ple), and abstract (i.e., morals, attitudes). The meaning of these objects is not intrinsic, but arise through the process of. social interaction, from how a person is initially prepared to act toward it. Since objects are social products, their meaning is formed and transformed by the defining process in the way a person refers to or acts towards it. An object for Mead is different from a stimulus in that a person organizes his actions toward it instead of responding to it. According to Shibutani, self- conceptions, like most other meanings, are formed and reaffirmed from day to . day in the interaction of people with one another in which other pe0p1e are 12 defining a person to himself. The use of a meaning by a person in his 10 11 12 Blumer, 93. 913., p. 61. Blumer, 9_p_. 91., p. 68. Shibutani, gp_. c_1_t_., p. 239. -7- action involves an interpretive process. "It is an instance of the person engaging in a process of communication with himself,"13 an internalized social process. The social act, the distinguishing characteristic of society, is a larger collective form of action that is constituted by the fitting together of the lines of behavior of separate participants. The idea of "fitting together" and that of communality, constitutes joint action, which is an ongoing process of action, not posited structure of relations. "The partici~ pants fit their acts together, first by identifying the social act in which they are about to engage, and second, by interpreting and defining each 14 This joint action has history other's acts in forming the joint act." which has been built up over time, and through past acts, which is "generally orderly, fixed, and repetitioUs by virtue of common identification or defini- 15 The common tion of the joint action that is made by its participants." definitions supply each participant with decisive guidance in directing his own act so as to fit into the acts of others. They also serve to account for regularity, stability, and repetitiveness of joint actions in group life, constituting the source of established and regulated social behavior in the concept of culture.16 Mead does not reject the existence of structure in human society.17 There are social roles, status positions, rank orders, social codes whose importance lies in the process of interpretation and definition out of which joint actions are formed. Human society is envisioned as pe0p1e meeting the conditions of their life, of human interaction by human actors. Therefore, 13 14 16 15Ibid. *— Blumer, 99, 919,, p. 5. Blumer, 99, 919,, p. 70. Blumer, 9p, 9_i_i_:_., p. 71. 17Bgllumer, 99. 919., p. 75. -3- the overriding question is how people are led to align their acts.18 This question is answered by looking at the communicative act, for out of a process of mutual indications, common objects emerge which have the same meaning for a given set of people and are seen in the same manner by them.19 The contention that human nature and the social order are products of communi- cation characterizes an interactionist (and therefore Meadian) approach.20 Role Conventional role represents a prescribed pattern of behavior expected of a person in a given situation by virtue of his position in a given exchange of meaning.21 Since roles are always parts of larger, organized enterprises, they are necessarily related to other roles. As in drama, all roles make sense only if there is a supporting cast. Human beings go through life enacting a variety of roles each appro- priate for the situation in which they are involved. Role- la in consists of living up to the obligations of the role , tfiat one assumes,22 . and requires imagining how one looks from another's standpoint by making inferences about the other person's inner experience. When the various participants can also understand the role played by others there is consensus, and consistency of communication of those roles. Hhen the person engaged in a certain role, and the pe0ple for whom the role ‘was created understand that role in the same manner, there is accuracy of communication of that role. 18Allen Edwards, The Social Desirabil1ty_Variable 19_Persona1999 Assessment and Research (New York: The Dryden Press, 1957), p. 64. 19 20 21 Blumer, 99, 919,, p. 11. Shibutani, 99, 919,, p. 22. 22 Shibutani, 99, 919,, p. 46. Shibutani, 99, 919,, p. 47. -g- The Process 91_Communication Barnlund states that in attempting to define communication it has been conceived structurally (S-M—R model), functionally (encoding—decoding), and in terms of intent (expressive- instrumental). It has been defined with reference to source (production of message), channel (signal transmission), receiver (attribution of meaning), code (symbolizing), effect (evoking of response), and in ways that combine several of these criteria. To some, communication is 'the process of transmitting stimuli' (Schramm), 'the establishment of a commonage' (Morris), 'conveying meaning' (Newcomb), or 'all the procedures by which one mind affects another' (Weaver). To others, it is 'interaction by means of signs and symbols' (Lundborg), 'the sharing of activity, excitement, information that individuals make to each other or which they detect in each other and which may be conscious or unconscious' (Cameron). Nearly every communicative element, function, or effec93has been made the focus of some definition at some time. If human interaction.is seen as a process, and this process is sustained through human communication, then human communication must also be seen as a process. As a process it must be dynamic, ongoing, everchanging, and continuous; and the ingredientsof communication would interact, each one affecting all of the others. Similarly, the concept of interaction is central to an understanding of the concept of the process of communication,24 and the process of communication is necessary to understand the concept of human interaction. For a definition of communication to encompass the concept of process and apply to the many different possibilities of human commUnication, it must be very general and simple. For this reason, this study directs 23Dean Barnlund, Inter9ersona1 Communication: Survey_and Studies (Boston: Houghton-Mifflin Co., 1968), p. 5. 24David Berlo, The Process of Communication: An Introduction to Theory and Practice (New York: Holtj—Rinehart, and NinSEbn, 1960), p. 130. -10- particular attention to Warren Weaver's definition of communication. He / states very simply that "communication is all of the procedures by which one "25 Berlo identified the elements of communication mind can affect another. as who, why, and whom. The communicative behaviors are perceived as the messages produced, or what pe0ple are trying to communicate. The communi- cative style is how people treat messages. The communicative means are channels. The concept of feedback must be included as a component of commu- 26 The concept of feedback adds nicative style in how pe0p1e treat mesSages. to Weaver's definition of communication the characteristic of an ongoing, everchanging process. Weaver's definition, as general as it is, encompasses both verbal and nonverbal communication. Nonverbal communication is that communication which does not need the spoken or written word for it to take place. This study concerns itself with nonverbal aspects of communication. For Weaver, the communicative act presents problems at three levels: technical, semantic, and influential. The problem at the technical level deals with the accuracy of the transference of the information from sender to receiver. The problem at the semantic level deals with the interpretation of meaning by the receiver, as compared with the intended meaning of the sender. The problem at the influential level concerns itSelf with the success with which the meaning conveyed to the receiver leads to the desired conduct on his part. The meaning and the effectiveness of the message are restricted by the theoretical limits of the accuracy in symbol transmission.27 The 25Warren Weaver, "The Mathematics of Communication", in Alfred Smith, ed., Communication and Culture (New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, 1966), p. 15. 26 27 Berlo, 99, 919,, p. 28. Weaver, 99, 919,, p. 15-16. -1]- technical and semantic levels of a nonverbal communicative act are dealt with in this study. According to Weaver, an information source selects a desired process message out of a set of possible messages. Related to dress, this would occur when a person decides what to wear. The message is then changed into a signal (the dress selected) which is sent over a communication channel (the body) to a receiver, or receivers. A receiver is in kind an inverse trans- mitter changing the transmitted signal back into a message. Weaver makes a distinction between the source and the transmitter, and the receiver and the destination of the message. The source would be the brain, the transmitter the person; the receiver would, again, be the brain, and the destination, the person. A key word for Weaver in the above process is "information." Infor- mation is not the same as meaning. Information is the measure of freedom of choice in selecting or constructing a message; it applies to the situation, 28 EntrOphy is the measure of information, and represents and not to meaning. the degree of randomness or disorder of the information expressed in terms of the various probabilities involved. Meaning, on the other hand, would apply to the interpretation of the mesSage given by the receiver based on the receiver's personal characteristics and past eXperiences. Weaver is more concerned with the statistical nature of the information source than the meaning of individual messages. A communication channel has a certain Capacity to transmit informa- tion from a source to a receiver. The problem for Weaver is to transmit through a channel the maximum amount of information per second. The above is 28Weaver, 99, 919,, p. 17. -12.. important in the formation of first impressions, when some research indicates 29 One must realize, that first impressions may be forced in thirty seconds. however, that all that is transmitted through a channel is not information, but some is noise. Noise is defined as those things not intended by the information source which are added to the signal (the dress selected). In the case of dress, noise cDuld be represented by the physical state of the dress. By reducing, or even elimination, noise from the channel the amount of information transmitted over the channel is increased. When noise is introduced into the channel, distortions and errors appear which could lead to increased uncertainty in decoding the message, especially when the trans- mitted signal, and consequently the decoded message, is not in keeping with the receiver's past experience involving the transmitter. But, according to Weaver, greater uncertainty, greater freedom of choice in message selection, and greater information all go hand in hand. Equivocation is the amount of anbiguity introduced by noise.30 The capacity of a noisy channel is defined to be equal to the maxi- mum rate at which useful information, which is the total uncertainty of the message minus the noise uncertainty, can be transmitted over the channel. Weaver further states that however clever one is with the coding process, there will always remain some undesirable uncertainty about what the message was after the signal was received. This undesirable uncertainty-- this noise or equivocation--will always be equal to or greater than the 1.31 entrOphy of the source minus the capacity of the channe But, there is 29Gordon Allport,‘Personality--A_Psychological Interpretation (New York: Holt, 1937), p. 500. 30 31 Weaver, 99, 919,, p. 20. Weaver, 99, 919,, p. 21. -13- always at least one code capable of reducing this undesirable down to a value that exceeds the entrophy minus the channel capacity by a small amount. That code is redundancy, which is that portion of the message which is unnecessary in that if it were missing, the message would still be essentially complete. Related to dress, redundancy could be represented by a badge reading "Police Department" on a policeman's uniform. Communication 91_Role In human interaction the concept of role provides redundancy in communication. Communication does not occur in a vacuum; participants bring to the situation, or develop within it, some agreement as to who they are, where they are, what they are about, and how they will conduct themselves.32 According to Parsons: Role is that organized sector of an actor's orientation which constitutes and defines his participation in an interactive process. It involves a set of complementary expectations con- cerning his own actions and those of others with whom he inter- acts. Both the actor and those with whom he interacts possess these expectations.33 Therefore, one's capacity to communicate with another is related to his ability to assume the role of the other. 32Barnlund, 99, 919,, p. 151. 33Barnlund, 99, cit., p. 161. -14- Dress 19 the Communicative Act It is a pOpular belief that people make judgments about another based on that person's appearance. If communication is all of the procedures by which one mind can affect another,34 then the activity of dressing could be one of these prOcedures. Any concrete evidence to this effect comes from empirical research studies looking at the role of dress in the formation of first impressions, or as a vehicle in the communication of aspects of the wearer's personality and social role. In 1944, Wilhemina Jacobson conducted a study at Ohio State Univer- sity with 430 subjects. She was interested in determining the extent of favorableness of impression made based on appearance and the nature of the first impression, what factors intervened, and what influences the observer's own characteristics had on her observations. The 430 subjects were divided into 18 groups of 24 each. Each subject stood in front of the group while the others wrote on an index card whatever came to mind concerning the person. A plus sign (+) was recorded if the listed itenlwas positive, a minus sign (-) if the listed item was negative, or a zero if the listed item was neither favorable nor unfavorable. ‘The subjects were further asked to note if they knew the person, and if so, how well. Results indicated that the majority of the responses were favorable, and the listed items fell into five general ocategories--physical characteristics, intelligence, grooming, clothing, and pizghglogical. The psychological responses constituted the majority of the responses (30%), except when the person was unknown in which case the grooming appeared more important. There seemed to be no significant 34Barnlund, 99. 919., p. 15. -15- correlation between a student's own personality adjustment and the inclina- tion to give favorable, or unfavorable responses.35 36 37 39 4O Hoult, Douty, Rosencranz,38 Dickey, and Sorenson provide more direct evidence of the role of dress in the formation of first impres- sions from the point of view of the observer. Hoult, Douty, Rosencranz, and Dickey used photographs or illustrations, rather than live models in their Studies; Sorenson used a live model in a simulated employment interview. 4] He found no Hoult was interested in clothing as social status. support for more than tentative conclusions, among them that when a person is known, clothing is not an important factor in judging another person. Hoult Suggests that clothing plays "an important and measurable part in structuring human relationships under certain circumstances.42 35Wilhemina Jacobson, "First Impressions of Classmates," Journal 91: A9plied Pslchology, XXIX (1945), p. 154. 36Thomas Hoult, "Experimental Measurement of Clothing as a Factor in some(Soci?l Ratings of Selected American Men,“ American Sociolog1cal Review, XIX 1954 . 37Helen Douty, "The Influence of Clothing on Perception of Persons in Single Contact Situations" (unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Florida State University, 1962). 38Mary Lou Rosencranz, "Clothing Symbolism," Journal 99_Home .Economics, LIV (1962). 39Lois Dickey, "Projection of the Self through Judgments of Clothed Figures and its Relation to Self-Esteem, Security-Insecurity and to Selected Clothing Behaviors" (unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Pennsylvania State University, 1961). - 40Linda Sorenson, "A Study of the Contribution of Clothing to Impression Formation in the Simulated Employment Interview" (unpublished M. A. thesis, Purdue University, 1966). 41 42 Hoult, 99, 919,, p. 325. Hoult, 99, 919,, p. 325. -16- D999y was interested in clothing awareness and interpretation of percunal characteristics in the formations of first impressions. Stimuli in the study were photographs of 4 models in 4 different costumes, and a smock. Subjects recorded their perceptions on an 11 pbint list of bi-polar personal characteristics, and a socio-economic form. Significant differences in ratings of social status and personal characteristics were found to be asso- Ciated with changes in clothing; therefore, clothing influenced perception of social status and personal characteristics.43 Rosen9999z presented a series of 7 sketches representing ambiguous social situations. Subjects recorded their first impressions, in story form, to all sketches. A clothingeawareness score for subjects was arrived at by adding the number of: ' 1. Lines of clothing corrments. 2. Characters for which clothing was mentioned. 3. Cards about which subject stated that clothing gave the idea for the story. 4. Clothing incongruities mentioned. 5. Thenes expressed in relation to clothing. No relationship between age of subject and clothing awareness was found, however, results imply that those of higher socio-economic status use 'clothing as a clue in formation of first impressions more than those of a lower socio-economic status.44 Digggy.studied the effect of clothing on perception of personality traits. She was concerned with self projection in relation to self-esteem, security-insecurity, and selected clothing behaviors. Four sketches of 2 43Douty, 99, 919, 44Rosencranz, 99, 919,, p. 18-22. -17- females each, one a mirror image of the other, were presented as stimuli. The two females in each sketch were dressed in similar silhouette lines, but differing in degrees of complexity of line. Respondents recorded perceptions on a check list of 30 descriptive words of personality traits. The number of self-esteem words checked for each sketch constituted a respondent's score. The respondent was asked which figure in each pair she identified with most, and her response pattern was noted in relationship to that figure.451‘ Sorenson used a live model applying for a job as a secretary in a simulated employment interview to study the effect of neatness and appropri- ateness of dress on the formation of impressions. The model wore costumes of differing neatness and appropriateness on different occasions. Prospective employers used a check list of 20 items including posture, aspects of voice, personality, and aspects of clothing to rate the general impression of the model.46 The studies mentioned up to this point all concern potential role of clothing in the formation of first impressions from the point of the viewer, but not the observed person. The emphasis is on the role of clothing, not if the impressions formed are accurate. The reSponses are related to an external variable (i.e., self-esteem) rather than selected personality or social aspects of the viewer or the observed person.l Sherlock was concerned with whether judgments pe0ple make of others on the basis of their dress is culturally determined or crosscultural. She identified the importance of clothing in formation of impressions as a communicative function of clothing. Therefore, her study was based on the comparison of reactions of two cultural groups, American and Indian, to 4SDickey, 99, 9999 46Sorenson, 99, 919, -13- photographs of 10 saris, worn by models with their faces covered. The sample consisted of 30 American and 30 Indian graduate students who rated the photo- graphs on a 7 point bi-polar trait personality scale. No test of statistical significance was performed, but the responses did show agreement between groups.47 Beeson showed 6 sketches of persons portrayed, through their posture, interacting with each other. Background and supportive properties (i.e., chair) were eliminated from the sketches. Respondents reacted to the sketches in story form. Responses were recorded for interpretations of the sketches in four categories on a modified clothing TAT (Rosencranz) score sheet. The four categories used were: role (social, occupational, activity), age level (boy, girl, man, woman), environmental (home, school, business), and emotional state or personality traits. Responses were open ended and one point was assigned to each response in a category. The scores were compared with four independent variables. Beeson was interested more in the mental process of formation of impressions of certain aspects of a person, using clothing as the clue, rather than the accuracy of these impressions.4 In 1969, Gibbons, assuming clothes act as a medium of communication, studied the communicative function of clothing related to fashionability. Primary to this study was "ascertaining the message communicated by the 'clothes, and if there was agreement about the message which particular clothes convey; and determining the message the wearer wished to convey and 47Ruth Sherlock, "A Cross Cultural Study of the Communicative Aspect of Clothing" (unpublished M. A. thesis, Cornell University, 1961). 48Marianne Smith Beeson, "Clothing Apperception Among High School and Eollege Students“ (unpublished M. A. thesis, Louisiana State University, 1965 . -19- "49 Subjects were fifty 15- and its relationship to the wearer's self-image. l6-year old girls. Stimuli consisted of photos of 6 costumes varying from 'extreme' to 'very ordinary' selected from current women's magazines. Back- ground, and the heads of the models were removed from the-photographs. Responses were recorded on a 7 point response-scale for 40 bi-polar items of semantic differential type. Subjects responded to the photographs in terms bf 'self—concept' and 'myself as I would like to be'; ranked them by how much they thought they were; and answered a fixed-alternative questionnaire for each outfit concerning the type of person who would most likely wear the outfit. Variables included age, status/occupation, number of boyfriends, seanl morals, personal characteristics, educational level, type of hobbies, and occasion.50 Results revealed that ' . . . .not only are judges prepared to make judgments about the kind of person who would wear given clothes, but that they agree to a very large extent indeed, both on the charac- teristics of the wearer of a particular outfit and upon differences between the wearers of different outfits.51 Results also indicated that liking for particUlar clothes is positively- related to the degree of similarity between the impression conveyed by the clothes and the judge's ideal self-image. Furthermore, "the factorial investigation indicates that for this sample of subjects, at least, the major dimension of the meaning of clothes is their fashionability.“52 49Keith Gibbons, "Communication Aspects of Women's Clothes and their Relationship to Fashionability," British Journal of Social and Clinical B9ychology, Vol. 8, Part 4, No. 8_(December,‘19697:'302. 50Gibbons, 99, 919,, p. 303. 5‘Cippons, 99. cit., p. 306. szGibbons, 99.91 ., p. 312. -20- Kelly stated that "one of the latent functions of dress is communi- cation. Dress and hairstyles are SymbOTS in one of many systgms of nonverbal ."53 Kelly studied nonverbal communicative aSpects of communication. . . dress in 410 interviews. He found that a wide variety of specific features of dress and appearance cluster together into a few basic types ranging from highly conventional to highly unconventional. Using color photographs of types as stimuli, Kelly asked respondents to rate their own appearance, and stereotypes associated with different types of dress. Results indicated that patterns in dress are clearly recognizable by others, and that stereotypes about appearance reflect reality with considerable accuracy. Accuracy of this communication arises largely because the wearer can freely, altho often inadvertently, choose a dress style that indicates his position. But, there are also system- atic distortions both because dress symbolism is not suffi- ciently elaborated to express atypical combinations. . . .and because there is sometimes pressure on an individual not to wear the styles apprOpriate to his beliefs.54 K; Although some studies deal with agreement of first impressions, or _ message conveyed through dress, the research does not investigate the accuracy of the message conveyed. As reviewed, study of dress in the. communicative act falls largely into four categories: the role of clothing, as part of general appearance in the formation of first impressions from the point of view of the observer, and crossculturally; a person's self-concept ‘of appearance compared to others of the same age, and with stereotypes; the relationship of style preference to personality traits; and the communicative function of clothing related to fashionability. 53Jonathan Kelly, "Dress as Nonverbal Communication," Public Opinion Quarterlx, XXXIII, N0. 3 (Fall, 1969), 441. 54Kelly, 99. 919., p. 441. -2]- m—m— This study was concerned with the communication, through dress, of societal identity and non-pathological personality traits of a person based on empirical data. Therefore, the measure needed should describe and measure empirically a person's societal identity and should not represent cultural Stereotypes of desirable or undesirable personality traits. A further concern of the investigator was that such a questionnaire allow maximum perceptual freedom on the part of the observer. Further criteria in the Selection of the measure of personality traits were that it: 1. Provide a measure of difference between groups of individuals and among individuals rather than deviations from the mean.- 2. Provide a way of comparing groups of subjects. 3. Not take highly Specialized training to administer and to interpret. 4. Take a minimum of the subjects' time. 5. Measure non-pathological personality traits. Four measures were considered: a. Helen I. Douty's Personal Assessment Form (1962) b. The Myers' Briggs Type Indicator (1956) c. Thurstone's Temperament Schedule d. Zimmer's Scale of Twenty-five Personality Traits (1954) 55 semantic differential of Douty's Personal Assessment Form, bi-polar traits, was rejected because it did not provide a means of measuring difference among individuals, and the traits included were too disparate. 55Douty, 99, 919, -22- The Myers' Briggs Type Indicator and Thurstone's Temperament Schcuule were rejected on the basis of the time element involved, and the items included did not appear to relate to nonverbal behavior. 56 was selected Zimmer's Scale of Twenty-five Personality Traits because it seemed to fit all criteria proposed by the investigator for the selection Of a measure. The scale was originally designed to test for discrepancies between the concept of self and the concept of ideal self. However, it was not the previous usage of the scale, but its construction and how it had previously been administered that were of importance to this study. The scale, as devised by Zimmer, consisted of twenty-five personality traits listed on a seven point rating scale. The trait names were selected because they: 1. Occurred six to ten tines in one million in the Thorndike-Lodge word count column G. 2. Did not represent a "cultural stereotype of a desirable or undesirable personality trait,"57 3. Reflected personal and dynamic content. Kenny, however, points out that Zimmer did not substantiate his assumptions that the traits he worked with represent inherent and fundamental personality characteristics and not cultural stereotypes of socially desirable or unde- Sirable personality traits.58 56H. Zimmer, "Self-acceptance and its Relation to Conflict,“ Journal 99 Consulting Psychol9gy, XVIII (1954), 447. 57Zimmer, 99. 919. p. 447. 58D. T. Kenny, "The Influence of Social Desirability on Discrepancy Measures between Real Self and Ideal Self," Journal 91_Psychology, XX (1956). -23- In a study, 0. T. Kenny rank ordered Zimmer's list of twenty-five personality traits from socially desirable to socially undesirable. He showed a .87 correlation between the socially desirable traits and their probability of endorsement. However, Edwards states that "there is suffi- cient evidence to indicate that the tendency to give socially desirable responses in self description is a fairly stable trait" and that the items a social desirability scale (of which Zimmer's is) are "all keyed for socially desirable responses."59 One concern of the investigator was that subjects might "fake" on the measure. According to Edwards, if the subject on this type of a scale on presented themselves in a socially more desirable way, they would tend to do the same for others. This "faking" is also true for subjects who would tend to present themselves in a more socially undesirable way.60. For this reason, the investigator believes that a potential "halo effect" would be avoided as much as possible. 59Edwards, 99. 919., p. 39. 60Edwards, 99, 919,, p. 53. CHAPTER III STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM Although it is both a popular and a professional conviction that dress plays an important part in human interaction, and that dress communi- Cates aspects of its wearer's social identity and selective personality traits, these ideas have not been empirically tested from the point of view of the wearer as opposed to that of the viewers. Therefore, the object of this study was to: l. Analyze the accuracy and the consistency of the nonverbal communication of dress as perceived by the transmitter and as perceived by the receivers. 2. Determine the effect that age and occupation, as components of societal identity, have on the receivers' inferences concerning the transmitter's personality traits and social role. The following assumptions and definition of terms were necessary to the formation of hypotheses concerning dress as a form of nonverbal communi- cation of societal identity and personality traits. Assumptions 1. PEOPLE MAKE JUDGMENTS ABOUT OTHERS ON THE BASIS OF THEIR DRESS. This is 61 (an observation, obvious from our daily experience. Hoult, 62 63 Rosencranz, and Douty provide objective evidence that dress plays a part in forming impressions of others. 61 62 Hoult, 99, 919, Rosencranz, 99, 919, 63Douty, 99, 919, -24- -25.. 2. DRESS IS A SYMBOL OF ROLE. (Eicher and Wass, 1964) Examples would include a policeman's uniform, or a nun's habit. 3. DRESS AND BODY BUILD INTERACT IN THE COMMUNICATION 0F PERSONALITY TRAITS THROUGH AN INDIVIDUAL'S CHOICE OF DRESS. This is based on Gestalt Theory, which states that the whole is not equal to the sum of the parts, and that any change in any of the parts produces a change in the total. A Specific article of clothing, therefore, would not communicate the same personality trait on a thin body build as on a medium body build; and furthermore, the same article of clothing worn by two pe0p1e with thin body build may or may not communicate the same personality traits. Definition 99_Terms Accuracy: When transmitter and receiver agree on the message communicated through the dress of the transmitter. Consistency: When receivers infer the same personality traits about the transmitter. Dress: Clothing, accessories, hairstyle, and grooming. Societal Identity: Subject's actual age, socio-economic status, sex, and occupation based on categories USed in the U.S. Census Report of 1970. Social Role: An individual's presentation and/or another's perception of her societal identity, defined in terms of how an individual of a particular age, sex, sOcio-economic status and/or occupation acts or is believed to act by those around her. Socio-economic Status: Dependent on the economic income of the head of the household. Classified in Tess than $5,000; $5,000-$6,999; $7,000-$9,999; 310,000-524,999; $25,000 and over. Receiver: Recipient of the message. Transmitter: Sender of the message. I. II. -25- flxpotheses Dress is established as a medium of nonverbal communication through accuracy. A. , er I" ”(I I" There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the trans— mitters, in the accuracy in the perception of age. There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the trans- mitters, in the accuracy in the perception of socio-eeonomic status. There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the trans- mitters, in the accuracy in the perception of occupation. There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the trans- mitters, in the accuracy in the perception of personality traits. Dress is also established as a medium of nonverbal communication through consistency. A. There will be consistency in the perception of personality traits .4 between receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters. . - There will be consistency in the perception of personality traits between receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters. CHARTER IV PROCEDURE The discussion of procedure deals with the refinement of the measure, the selection of the sample, the data collection, and statistical analysis. Refinement 91_the Measure Two pretests (see appendix) were conducted using Zimmer's Scale to establish the usefulness of the scale to measure personality traits through dress; and the reliability of the scale. The investigator was also concerned with shortening the length of the scale, and therefore, eliminated some of the traits; and in the seven point rating format of the scale. Clothing and textile students were subjects in the pretests due to their assumed sensitization, through coursework, to socio-psychological aspects and communicative value of dress.‘ The first pretest was given to 78 clothing and textile students, with three slides, each of a different girl as stimuli in different dress, of the same size and in the same pose, taken against the same background. The students completed the Zimmer Scale and socio-economic form for each slide. The investigator concluded that the Scale was useful for measuring personality traits reflected through dress, since responses were made in terms of traits when all but dress and body build were controlled in the slides (the heads of the pe0ple in the slides were omitted, thus eliminating facial eXpression). Dress and body build were deemed to interact in the communication of personality traits through that person's choice of dress. If they did not interact, then articles of dress -27- -28- in themselves would communicate personality traits, without the input of the weazor. Zimmer's seven point scale was used. The second pretest was given to 20 clothing and textile students in a clothing construction laboratory. The same three slides were used as stim- uli. For the second pretest the rating format was changed to a 5 point scale. The investigator decided that traits would be eliminated based on reliability of the trait determined by Hoyt's ANOVA test of internal reliability. Three traits were eliminated: economical, conventional, and obedient. Socio-economic Questionnaire A socio-economic questionnaire to judge the age, economic status, and occupation of the observed person aCcompanied the scale of personality traits. Included in the socio-economic form were the three aspects of societal identity under study: age, occupation, and economic status as determined by the income of the head of the household. The ages included in each category, and the different family income levels were similar to those listed in the United States Census Report of 1970. The occupations of stu- dent in communication arts and student in theatre arts were selected because the results of this study could be applicable in these areas. Students in clothing and textiles were not selected because they have been pre-sensitized ‘to the communicative value of dress in their coursework. A further concern of the investigator was that the participants in this study think they know the observed person in the slide. Therefore, a question to this effect was included with the scale of personality traits and the socio-economic form. The reSponses of those participants that believed they knew the observed person in the slide could therefore be separated from the responses of the other participants. -29- Selection 919the Sample The original research design called for 60 people to take part in the study. They were all female, of middle socio—economic status ($7,000- $9,999) as determined by the income of the head of the household, and were distributed five to each of the following categories: AGE OCCUPATION 18-21 22-24 25-34 Secretary 5 5 5 Retailer 5 5 5 Student in Communication Arts 5 5 5 Student in Theatre Arts 5 5 5 The ages included in each category reflect those listed in the United States Census Report of 1970. The occupations of secretary and retailer were selected because of the number of females in each of these occupations in each category, which was listed as employed in the Greater Lansing area per the United States Census Report of 1970. Each subject was selected purposely for her age group, occupation, and socio-economic level. Unfortunately, due to lack of cooperative spirit on the part of secretaries, retailers, and students 18-21 years of age, the total number of 'subjects participating in the study was reduced from 60 to 13. This caused the investigator to convert the three original age groupings to two: 18-24 and 25-34; and to eliminate the occupational category of retailer. Further- more, by following legitimate channels in obtaining names of potential subjects, subjects could not be selected based on income level since that , information was regarded as confidential. Therefore, the final sample was composed of participants of differing income levels, rather than all of the same level. -30- Since the sample could not be randomly selected, the results cannot be generalized to a much larger population.- They can only show that dress is or is not a variable in the formation of accurate or consistent impressions of a person's societal identity and personality traits, or if a receiver's societal identity influences her perception of another's social role. Data Collection Prior to selection of the sample and collection of the data, permis- sion to conduct the study was required from the University Committee for the Use of Human Subjects in Research, at Michigan State University (see appen- dix). After further permission was granted by the Office of Institutional Research on campus, a list of potential subjects who were majors in the Department of Communication Arts and the Department of Theatre Arts at Michigan State University during spring term, 1973, was obtained from the Michigan State University administration student records; and a list of secre- taries working on campus who were potential subjects was obtained from Michigan State University personnel. Potential subjects were contacted by telephone, and a date was set to meet with the investigator. Participation in this study was voluntary. Participants were not paid, and, before participation, a consent form was signed by the subjects (see appendix) giving the investigator permission to use the data collected only for purposes of this research study. Each participant was asked to wear clothing which she believed to be appropriate for her age and occupation, and that she liked and felt comfortable in. A color slide was taken of each participant, using the same background of a neutral color for all. The slides were taken at the same time of day, in the same room, under the same lighting conditions, and from the same distance. The participants wore a -3]- black mask on the face to avoid positive identification by the other partici- pants in the study; each partici as; was identified by a number only. The slides were taken over a period of three days and were the basis for obtaining data to determine consistency and accuracy of communication of societal identity and personality traits through dress. All participants were in turn transmitter and receiver. At the time the slide was taken of herself, the participant completed the modified Zimmer Scale of Personality Traits and the socio-economic form.v Participants returned a week later, at the same time, to view the slides of the other participants and complete the same questionnaire for each one. The partici- pants were also asked if each thought she recognized the person in the slide, and, if so, how well she thought she knew that person. If a participant thought she knew the person in the slide, her responses to the slide of that person were separated for analysis from the rest of the reSponses to that slide. Of the thirteen individuals who agreed to take part in the study, twelve returned to view the slides of the others. Each subject took an average of 33 minutes to complete the questionnaire on the slides of the others in the study. Descriptive Statistics and Statistical Procedure For purposes of analysis, participants were classified into the following groups based on their similarity to the person in the slide in age/ or occupation, regardless of their socio-economic grouping: 1. Similar in both age and occupation. 2. Similar in age only. ' 3. Similar in occupation only. 4. Dissimilar in age and occupation. -32- The accuracy scores of each of these groups are the dependent variables in the hypothesis testing. To test for accuracy of communication a multivariate analysis of variance of repeated measures was used. Hypotheses were tested at the .05 level of significance with 3 and 9 degrees of freedom. The assumptions associated with the statistical model under- lying the F-test are these: that the scores or observations are independently drawn from normally distributed p0pulations; that the populations all have the same variance; and that the means in the normally distributed populations are linear combinations of "effects" due to rows and columns, i. e. that the effects are additive. In addition, the F-test re uires at least interval measurement of the variables involved. To test for consistency of communication of personality traits through dress, Hoyt's ANOVA test for reliability was used. Hypotheses were tested at r = .80 for significance. Subject number five was not included in the analysis of accuracy and consistency in perception of personality traits since she was the only secre- tary in the sample. 64Sydney Siegal, Non-parametric Statistics for the Behavioral Sciences (New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1956), 160. CHAPTER V RESULTS AND DISCUSSION This chapter deals with the descriptive data of the sample which includes that not directly related to discussion of the hypotheses; and a discussion of each of the hypotheses. Descr1ptive Data Twelve of the thirteen subjects completed the study. The subjects were all female caucasians between the ages of 18 and 34, majors in communi- cation arts or theatre arts, or secretaries. Their socio-economic status ranged from less than $5,000/year to more than $25,000/year. Age The sample was divided into two age groups: 18-24; and 25-34 years. Seven subjects were in the 18-24 group; five subjects were in the 25-34 group. The mean age of subjects in the 18-24 group was 21.86. The mean age of the 25-34 group was 28.6. The mean age of the sample was 24.23. Occgpation The sample was comprised of subjects in three occupational groups: secretary, major in communication arts, and major in theatre arts. One subject was a secretary whose age was 21. Five subjects were majors in communication arts. Of these five, two were in the 18-24 year age grouping, and three were in the 25-34 year age grouping; the group had a mean age of 27.4. Six subjects were theatre arts majors, of which 4 fell into the 18-24 -33- -34- year age grouping, and 2 fell into the 25-34 year age grouping. The mean age of theatre arts majors was 23. Socio-economic Status The exact socio-economic status of each subject was not known. TABLE 1. Frequency of socio-economic status groups by age and occupation of subjects. ~ Age and Occupation Socio-economic Status Theatre Communication Arts Arts ‘ Secretary 18—24 25-34 18-24 25—34 18-24 Lower than $5,000 1* l 1 $ 5.000-$ 6,999 1 $ 7,000-$ 9,999 l l $10,000-$24,999 2 l 3 $25,000-over l *number of subjects Hypothesis.Test1gg The hypothesis concerning accuracy in communication of age, socio- economic status, occupation, and personality traits were rejected because the probability of the tested relationships were larger than .05, the level of significance set by the investigator. The hypotheses concerning consistency of communication of person- ality traits were rejected. In testing for significance in conSistency of communication, r = .80 was used. Results from hypotheses on consistency of communication were non-conclusive. -35- TABLE 2. Comparison of multivariate F-ratio, degrees of freedom, and alpha level of hypotheses testing accuracy of communication. Multivariate Degrees of Alpha Hypothesis F-Ratio Freedom Level Ia. Age " .0503 3;9 N.S. Ib. Socio-economic Status .5543 3;9 N.S. Ic. Occupation .7998 ‘3;9 N.S. Id. Personality Traits 1.1537 3;9 N.S. Hypothesis I: Dress is established as a medium of nonverbal communication through accuracy. IA. There will be a difference between transmitters and ' receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters, in accuracy in the perception of age. The multivariate F-ratio was not significant (p < .9842), and consequently, the null hypothesis could not be rejected. TABLE 3. Relationship between receiver similarity in age and/or occupation ' to transmitter and accuracy in perception of age. Different Different Same Age/ Same Age/ Age/ Age/ Same Different Same Different Occupation Occupation Occupation Occupation Observed Cell Means 54.17* 32.67 57.58 54.75 Observed Standard Deviation 49.81 34.05 35.60 23.23 *Percent accurate -36- Any differences in perception of age were due to chance. Table 3 bears this out since there is little difference between the percentage of accurate perceptions (cell means) of age of the different groups, all being close to 50% or half the subjects in the group. However, the percentage of accurate perceptions of age per group across groups is the highest of those measured in this study. This could be a result of the small range of age differences Of the sample.65 IB. There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to transmitters in the accuracy in the perception of socio-economic status. The multivariate F-ratio (p < .6581) was not significant and consequently, the null hypothesis could not be rejected (see Table 4). TABLE 4. Relationship between receiver similarity in age and/or occupation to transmitter and accuracy in perception of socio—economic status. Different Different Same Age/ Same Age/ Age/ Age/ Same Different Same Different Occupation Occupation Occupation Occupation Observed Cell Means 9.67* 17.00 19.47 15.25 Observed _Standard Deviation 17.98 27.65 24.43 19.79 *Percent accurate Any differences in perception of socio-economic status were due to chance. Furthermore, the cell means of the different groups not only indicate a very 65Ryan9 QR- _C_'i_'_t_., p. 15. -37- 1ow percentage of the subjects (9.6%-19.4%) accurately perceived the socio- economic, but very little difference in accuracy of perception sf socio- economic status between groups. The low accuracy may be attributable to the disparate income levels of the subjects.' Rosencranz has suggested that the total "clothing awareness" of an individual varies with the socio-economic status of the observer; those from a higher socio-economic status would be more aware of clothing, and consequently use more clothing cues in forming first impressions, than those from a lower socio-economic status.66 IC. There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters, in the accuracy in the perception of occupation. The multivariate F-ratio was not significant (p < .5246), and consequently, the null hypothesis could not be rejected (see Table 5). TABLE 5. Relationship between receiver similarity in age and/or occupation to transmitter and accuracy in perception of occupation. Different Different Same Age/ Same Age/ Age/ Age/ Same Different Same Different Occupation Occupation Occupation Occupation Observed Cell Means 40.25* 51.58 47.92 58.75 Observed Standard Deviation 42.35 25.98 24.73 21.35 *Percent accurate 66Rosencranz, 99, 919,, p. 108. -33- Any differences in ratings of occupation were due to chance. As seen in . Table 5, the percentage of accurate ratings (cell means)‘of occupation are similar for all groups; the percentage accurate per group is close to 50% for all groups. Research in accuracy of perception of occupation, age, and income level With dress as a variable have not considered accuracy from the point of occupation, age, and income level of the observed person as compared with others' perception of her. ID. There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters, in accuracy in the perception of personality traits. The multivariate F-ratio was not significant (p < .3796), and consequently, the null hypothesis could not be rejected (see Table 6). TABLE 6. Relationship between receiver similarity in age and/or occupation to transmitter and accuracy in perception of personality traits. Different Different Same Age/ Same Age/ Age/ Age/ Same Different Same Different Occupation Occupation Occupation Occupation Observed Cell Means 26.05* 25.38 23.90 25.93 Observed Standard , Deviation 4.73 5.85 4.82 3.77 *Percent accurate Any differences in ratings of personality traits were due to chance. As seen in the above table, the percentage of accurate ratings of personality traits (cell means) is very low, ranging from 23.9% for individuals of different age -39- and similar occupation to the transmitter, to 26.05% for individuals of simiIar age and occupation to the transmitter; there is little difference between groups in percent of accurate ratings. These findings support the majority of the research which has found that accuracy in perception of 67 personality characteristics is very low. This is in spite of the fact that Vwe perceive people as having certain personality traits with such a degree 0f certainty that we tend to disbelieve the research findings."68 Hypothesis II: Dress is also established as a medium of nonverbal communi- cation through consistency. IIA. There will be consistency in the perception of person- ality traits between receivers who are different in age and occupation to the transmitter. 118. There will be consistency in the perception of person- ality traits between receivers who are similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters. Communication is also established when receivers agree on what is being communicated. The hypotheses concerning consistency of communication were rejected. Hoyt's ANOVA test for reliability was used to test for consistency; r was set at .80. This test yields reliability scores for each subject in each of 4 categories (same age--same occupation; same age--different occupa- tion; different age--same occupation; different age--different occupation). Therefore, discussions of the results of this test are stated in terms of frequency or percentages of significantly reliable scores in each category. The results were statistically non-conclusive. This was due to the small number of subjects and a correspondingly large error term which resulted in negative coefficients, not a measure of reliability (R) in some 67Ryans 9R- Ei_t_o, p. 31. Gswans 9E- Eji., p. 30. -40- cases. Data are not reported for those cases which are represented by a hyphen in Table 7. In three cases there was only one subject in the group; the reliability could not be measured with only one subject. The reliability coefficients that were measured are numerically unstable because they are based on the small number of subjects in a group (4 was the largest group; most groups consisted of 2.0r 3 subjects) in relation to the number of items on the modified Zimmer Scale of Personality Traits (22). The frequency of significantly reliable scores (see Table 7) for receivers who were different in age and occupation from tranSmitters was 3, or 25% of the total possible. Of the total possible in this category, 3 coefficients were unreliable, and unreported. The frequency of significantly reliable scores (see Table 7) for receivers who are the same age, but different occupation is 0.5. Reliability in this category was unreliable. The frequency of significantly reliable scores (see Table 7) for receivers who are different in age, but of the same occupation was 2, or 16-1/2% of the total possible. Four coefficients in this category were unreliable. - Aside from the small number of subjects, the low percentage of agree- ment among receivers of the different groups could also result from lack of “association between some traits and clothing as a cue.69 However nonconclu- sive the data, there was some indication that a person perceives personality traits with dress as stimuli. 69Ryan. 99. 919., p. 21. -4]- TABLE 7. Reliability scores for consistency in perception of personal traits. Different Different Same Age/ Same Age/ Age/ Age/ Same Different Same Different Subject Occupation Occupation Occupation Occupation 1 .72 --- --- .46 2 .95 .17 .87 .49 3 .54 .69 .95 .87 4 (only one subject) --- --- .75 6 --- .O6 ' --- --- 7 (only one subject) --- .54 .81 . 8 .86 - ' .67 —-- --- 9 --- --- .02 .6O 10 (only one subject) .72 .57 —-- ll --- --- .46 .84 12 --- .08 .42 --- 13 .54 .75 .40 ~-- Frequency of Reliable Scores 2 O 2 3 Percent _ Consistent .22 .OO .16-1/2 .25 r = .80 NOTE: Subject #5 was not included in analysis. CHAPTER VI SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS Summar The major concern of this study was to verify, empirically, the_ p0pular assumption that dress communicates aSpects of a person's societal identity and personality traits to others, and that the impressions one forms of another based on her appearance are accurate. This investigation approached the problem from two points of view: accuracy of communication and consistency of communication. A review of the literature indicated that dress theoretically could 70). Research in the be considered a media of nonverbal corrmunication (Weaver area of dress as a variable in the communicative act largely fell into four categories: 1. Role of clothing in the formation of first impressions, from the point of view of the observer, and cross—culturally. 2. Self-concept of appearance compared to others of the same age, and to stereotypes. 3. Relationship of style preference to personality traits. 4. Communicative function of clothing related to fashionability. Although agreement among observers as to message conveyed through dress is ' treated in some studies, the accuracy of that message from the point of view 70Warren Weaver, "The Mathematics of Communication", in Alfred Smith, ed., Communication and Culture (New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, Inc., 1966), pp. 15-25. - -42- -43- of observed persons versus observer has not been dealt with, using dress as a variable. The sample was composed of 13 caucasian females between the ages of 18 and 34 who were majors in communication arts, theatre arts, or secretaries at Michigan State University during Spring term, 1973. The sample was purposively selected for their age and occupation. Of the 13 subjects, 12 Completed the study. Color slides were taken of each subject wearing clothing she deemed apprOpriate for her age and occupation, and that she felt comfortable in and liked. The subjects wore a black mask to avoid positive identification by other participants in the study; each subject was identi- fied only by a number to safeguard her real identity. Each subject completed a socio-economic questionnaire, and the modified Zimmer Scale of Personality Traits. Subjects returned a week later to view the slides of the other participants and complete a socio-economic questionnaire and modified Zimmer Scale of Personality Traits for each one. For purposes of analysis, responses to each slide were divided into 4 categories dependent on respondent's similarity to the person in the slide in age and/or occupation. Responses to all slides were used in analysis of accuracy of communication of age, socio-economhc status, occupation, and personality traits. ReSponses to 12 slides were analyzed for consistency of 'communication of personality traits. A multivariate analysis of variance over repeated measures was used 1 to test for accuracy of communication, with level of significance set at .05. Hoyt's ANOVA test of reliability was used for determining consistency of comnunication, with r = .80. The dependent variables were the frequency scores in the four categories: same age--same occupation; same age—-different occupation; -44- different age--same occupation; different age--different occupation. A measure of accuracy of communication through dress entailed comparing the individual's concept of her societal role, and personality traits with how others perceived her societal role and personality traits. A measure of consistency of'conmunication through dress entailed comparing observers' perception of a person's societal role and personality traits regardless of that person's age, occupation, and personality traits. A summary of the proposed hypotheses and results are as follows: Dress is established as a medium of nonverbal communication through accuracy. Hypothesis I: There will be a difference between transmitters and receivers who are different in age and/or occupation from transmitters and receivers who are Similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters, in the accuracy in the perception of: A. Age 8. Socio-economic Status C. Occupation 0. Personality Traits The hypotheses concerning accuracy in perception of age, socio- economic status, occupation, and personality traits were not accepted. Any differences between groups in perception of the above mentioned traits were due to chance. _ Dress is also established as a medium of nonverbal communication through consistency. Hypothesis II: There will be consistency in the perception of personality traits between receivers who are: -45- A. different in age and occupation from transmitters B. similar in age and/or occupation to the transmitters The hypotheses concerning consistency of communication were not accepted. Due to the small nunber of subjects and large number of items, the error term was too large for adequate measure of reliability in some cases. In some cases the coefficient which was calculated was unstable. Due to the Small sample size, and resultant few degrees of freedom allowable for statistical testing of the hypotheses, the data were non- conclusive. Based on the statistical analysis of the data, one cannot generalize whether dress was or was not a variable in the communication of societal identity or certain personality traits. Implications Although, for reasons already cited, the data was non-conclusive, and the hypotheses stated could not be accepted, a study of dress as a form of nonverbal communication carries implications for fashion and costume designers, fashion therapists, and teachers of clothing selection. These professional areas are all concerned with total effect of dress, or, stated differently, accuracy and/or consistency of perception of certain aSpects of the wearer. To be able to predict with some degree of certainty an Observer's perception of these aspects would be a valuable tool. Befbre the knowledge can become a tool, though, the area requires extensive research. -45- Recommendations for Further Study Before further research is conducted in the area of accuracy and consistency in communication of personality traits, a finer measure should be developed to pinpoint the traits that are communicated by a person's dress. The following ideas for the develOpment of such a measure are suggested: 1. That the measure be in the form of a rating scale or checklist. These formats enable comparison across subjects and between groups Of subjects, more readily than Open ended questionnaires. That clothing be varied on the same person. A model wearing different outfits with other people reacting to her, differences in perception of personality traits would be due to change in clothing and not body build. A slide could be taken of the model, in which posture is controlled, and facial expression is eliminated. That a subject rate her perceived personality traits, then have a slide taken of herself. She could return later to view her- self in the slide and rate herself based on the slide. Any differences in ratings of individual traits could be analyzed. Furthermore, research could be conducted to ascertain if subjects' perceptions of another person in a photograph are more accurate when compared to the way that person rates herself before, or after she saw the photograph of herself. That, before use, the measure be tested for reliability with a wide range of age, occupational, and income groups. It may be true that different groups perceive the meaning of select person- ality traits differently, or that they perceive altogether different traits. -47- If a study similar to this one were repeated, the following changes are indicated: 1. That the sample maximize the range of age and occupational groups. That the sample be larger to allow for an increased number of degrees of freedom in statistical analysis. That income levels be controlled. That a subject's own age and income level be compared with her perception of another's age and income level in order to ascer- tain direction of perception: whether persons perceive their own income and age levels more accurately than those higher or lower. BIBLIOGRAPHY IBLIOGRAPHY Books Allport, Gordon. Personality--g_Psychological Inter9retati0n. New York: Holt, 1937. Barnlund, Dean. Interpersonal Communication: Survey and Studies. Boston: Houghton-Mifflin Company, 1968. Berlo, David. 199_Process 99_Communication: 99_Introduction 99 Theory and Practice. New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, 1960. Birdwhistl, Ray. Kinesics and Context. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1970. Blumer, Herbert. gymbolic Interactionism: Perspective and Method. New Jersey: Prentice—Hall, 1969. ‘ Broadbent, D. E. Perception and Communication. New York: Pergamon Press, 1958. Cooley, Charles. Human Nature and the Social Order. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1922. Edwards, Allen. The Social Desirabili9y Variable 19_Personality Assessment and Research. New York: The Dryden Press, 1957. Eisenberg, Abne and Ralph Smith Jr. Non-verbal Communication. New York: The Bobbs-Merrill Company, 1971. Ekman, P. "Communication Through Non-verbal Behavior: A Source of Informa- tion about an Interpersonal Relationship." In S. S. Tompkins and G. E. Izard, eds., Affect, Cognition and Personali9y, New York: Springer Press, 1966. 390-442. Knapp, Mark L. Non-verbal Conmunication 19_Human Interaction. New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, Inc., 1972. Marcuse, F. L., ed. Areas of Psychology. New York: Harper and Brothers, Publishers, 1954. _181i240. Mead, George Herbert. 99_Social Psychology, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1964. Natanson, Maurice. The Social Dynamics 99_George Herbert Mead. Washington, D. C.: Public Affairs Press, 1956. Newcomb, Theodore. Social Psychology. New York: The Dryden Press, 1950. -49- -50- Ryan, Mary Shaw. Clothing: fl_Study 19_Human Behavior. New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, Inc., 1966. 2-98. Siegal, Sydney. Non-parametric Statistics for the Behavioral Sciences. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company,71956. . Shibutani, Tamotsu. Socie9y and Personality; 59_Interactionist Ap9roach 99_ Social Psychology, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1961} Stone, Gregory. "Appearance and the Self." In Roach and Eicher, eds., Dress, Adornment and the Social Order. New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965. 216-222. Toch, Hans and Henry Smith, eds. Social Perception. New York: D. Van Nostrand, Inc., 1968. Weaver, Warren. "The Mathematics of Communication." In Alfred Smith, ed., Communication and Culture. New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, Inc., 1966. 15-25. ‘ Articles Aiken, L. "Relationship Of Dress to Selected Measures of Personality in Undergraduate Women." Journal 99_Socia1 Psychology, LIX (1963), 119-128. Ekman, P. "A Methodological Discussion of Non-verbal Behavior." Journal 99 Paychology, XLIII (1951), 141-149. Gross, Edward and Gregory Stone. "Embarrassment and the Analysis of Role Requirements." American Journal 91_Sociology, LXX, No. 1 (July, 1964 , 1-16. Gibbons, Keith. "Communication Aspects of Women's Clothes and their Rela- tionship to Fashionability." British Journal of Social and Clinical Psycho19gy, Vol. 8, Part 4, NO. 8(December,71969)} 301-312. Hoult, Thomas. "Experimental Measurement of Clothing as a Factor in some ' Social Ratings of Selected American Men." American Sociologjcal Review, XIX (1954), 324-328. Jacobson, Wilhemina. "First Impressions of Classmates.“ Journal 99_ 991ied Psychology, XXIX (1945), 142-154. Kenny, D. T. “The Influence of Social Desirability on Discrepancy Measures between Real Self and Ideal Self." Journal 99_Psy9hology, XX (1956), 305-310. Kelly, Jonathan. “Dress as Non-verbal Communication." Public Q9jnion Quarterly, XXXIII, No. 3 (Fall, 1969), 441. -51- Rosencranz, Mary Lou. "Clothing Symbolism." Journal 99_Home Economics, LIV (1962), 18-22. Zimmer, H. "Self-acceptance and its Relation to Conflict." Journal 99 Consulting_P§ychology, XVIII (1954), 447-449. Unpublished Materials Beeson, Marianne Smith. "Clothing Apperception Among High School and College Students." Unpublished M. A. thesis, Louisiana State University, 1965. Dickey, Lois. "Projection of the Self through Judgments of Clothed Figures and its Relation to Self-Esteem, Security-Insecurity and to Selected Clothing Behaviors." Unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Pennsylvania State University, 1961. Douty, Helen. "The Influence of Clothing on Perception of Persons in Single Contact Situations.“ Unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Florida State University, 1962. Eaglin, Bonnie. "Relationship between Certain Personality Traits and Clothing Preferences." Unpublished M. A. thesis, Southern Illinois University, 1967. Lott, Isabelle. "Self-concept Of Appearance and Related Adornment Behavior of Negro and White Adolescent Girls." Unpublished M. A. thesis, Michigan State University, 1966. Sherlock, Ruth. "A Crosscultural Study of the Communicative Aspect of Clothing." Unpublished M. A. thesis, Cornell University, 1961. Sorenson, Linda. "A Study of the Contribution of Clothing to Impression Formation in the Simulated Employment Interview." Unpublished M. A. thesis, Purdue University, 1966. Treece, Anna Jean. "An Interpretation of Clothing Behavior based on Social Psychological Theory." Unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1959. APPENDICES FIRST PRETEST PART I: PERSONALITY TRAITS Least Descriptive RESPECTFUL DARING PRECISE MEEK PERSISTENT ARDENT CONVENTIONAL DETERMINED OBEDIENT LEISURELY EMOTIONAL AMBITIOUS {DELIBERATE TRUSTING SENTIMENTAL CAUTIOUS REFINED .ENERGETIC ORDERLY POETIC ‘ WARY LUSTY DOMINANT SPONTANEOUS ECONOMICAL -53- Most Descriptive PART II: SOCIO-ECONOMIC STATUS (Check One) Estimated Family Income Level: Lower than $5,000 $5,ooo-$6,999 $7,000-$9,999 $10,000-$24,999 $25,000-over Age Grouping: 18-21 22-24 25-34 OCCU9ation: Student HED Secretary Student theatre Retailer -54- PART I : PERSONALITY TRAITS Least Descriptive ENERGETIC ORDERLY POETIC MARY LUSTY DOMINANT SPONTANEOUS ECONOMICAL RESPECTFUL DARING PRECISE MEEK PERSISTENT ARDENT CONVENTIONAL DETERMINED OBEDIENT LEISURELY .EMOTIONAL AMBITIOUS ' DELIBERATE TRUSTING SENTIMENTAL CAUTIOUS REFINED -55- Most Descriptive PART II: SOCIu-ECONOMIC STATUS (Check One) Estimated Family Income Level: Lower than $5,000 $5,000-S6,999 ' $7,000-S9,999 $10,000-S24,999 $25,000-over £99_Grou9ing: 18-21 22-24 25-34 Occgpation: Student HED Secretary Student theatre Retailer -55- PART I: PERSONALITY TRAITS . Least Descriptive LEISURELY EMOTIONAL AMBITIOUS DELIBERATE TRUSTING SENTIMENTAL CAUTIOUS REFINED ENERGETIC ORDERLY POETIC WARY LUSTY DOMINANT SPONTANEOUS ECONOMICAL RESPECTFUL .DARING PRECISE MEEK PERSISTENT ARDENT CONVENTIONAL DETERMINED OBEDIENT -57- Most Descriptive PART II: SOCIO-ECONOMIC STATUS (Check One) Estimated Family 1pcome Level: Lower than $5,000 $5,000-$6,999 $7,000-$9,999 310,000-924,999 $25,000-Over Age Grouping: 18-21 22-24 25-34 Q999pation: Student HED Secretary Student theatre Retailer -58- Q ‘R NO‘.*P‘.‘I° e - .’ I' - l ) .‘J'. .4 Coo-urn-‘fooue-p-oo. uuoacl “bu-we F‘? «1....5-14» o . as. -: N: ’ _. «a U} A n -59! -‘--QQ‘. T,‘ C" I . «'1 01" .v I, .' ." I n -‘ fl--uMucuuror-. 1’) Owen r‘I-s f1 .‘ks 9‘ IT I" "I In. ‘ . ~‘ . 1‘ L“,\" .oI' \Juflt', ”QC-4b- ”H591! (- ‘-. . ‘.3 l:‘-.' ’0 3.. .A‘. \ .y - -fi ‘ I I '9 .3 fl ‘9 '5 e‘a 0‘) on .4 ‘I Q I I. _ . (. ‘ ' x. - yin" I ,1. \v . r; I 14.1.1. Q fivfi ,' 1.14 1 I MFQfJL'un-hoc [1 Ge finished C.:—v11» .-v.q r- - . 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HAVE SEEN MORE THAN ONCE KNOW CASUALLY KNOW WELL PART I: SOCIO ECONOMIC STATUS (CHECK ONE IN EACH OF THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES ' AS IT PERTAINS TO THE SLIDE) ESTIMATED FAMILY INCOME LEVEL: LOWER THAN $5,000 $5,000 ~ $6,900 $7,000 - $9,000 $10,000 - $24,000 $25,000 AND OVER AGE GROUP OF THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE: 18 - 24 25 - 32 OCCUPATION: STUDENT IN THEATRE ARTS SECRETARY ‘ STUDENT IN COMMUNICATION ARTS PART II: PERSONALITY TRAITS (CIRCLE THE NUMBER FROM ONE TO FIVE AFTER EACH TRAIT AS IT CORRESPONDS TO WHETHER OR NOT THE TRAIT IS DESCRIPTIVE OF THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE) LEAST DESCRIPTIVE MOST DESCRIPTIVE RESPECTFUL I 2 3 4 5 DARING T 2 3 4 5 PRECISE 1 2 3 4 5 MEEK I 2 3 4 5 PERSISTENT I 2 3 4 5 ARDENT I 2 3 4 5 DETERMINED 1 2 3 4 5 LEISURELY T 2 3 4 5 EMOTIONAL I 2 3 4 5 AMBITIOUS 1 2 3 4 5 DELIBERATE 1 2 3 4 5 TRUSTING I 2 3 4 5 SENTIMENTAL T 2 3 4 5 CAUTIOUS I 2 3 4 5 l O‘ T" PART II: EERSONALITY TRAIT_S_ (Continued) LEAST D SLRIPTIVE MOST DESCRIPTIVE REFINED I 2 3 4 5 ENERGETIC I 2 3 4 5 ORDERLY I 2 3 4 5 POETIC I 2 3 4 5 WARY I 2 3 4 5 LUSTY I 2 3 4 5 DOMINANT I 2 3 4 5 SPONTANEOUS I 2 3 4 5 -66- PLEASE COMPLETE ALL SECTIONS OF THE QUESTIONNAIRE FOR EVERY SLIDE. IF YOU THINK YOU KNOW THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE, HOW WELL? HAVE SEEN MORE THAN ONCE KNOW CASUALLY KNOW WELL PART I: SOCIO ECONOMIC STATUS (CHECK ONE IN EACH OF THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES AS IT PERTAINS TO THE SLIDE) ESTIMATED FAMILY INCOME LEVEL; LOWER THAN $5,000 $5,000 - $6,900 $7,000 - $9,000 $10,000 - $24,000 $25,000 AND OYER““" ""‘ AGE GROUP OF THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE: 18 - 24 25 - 32 OCCUPATION: _ STUDENT IN THEATRE ARTS SECRETARY STUDENT IN COMMUNICATION ARTS PART II: PERSONALITY TRAITS (CIRCLE THE NUMBER FROM ONE TO FIVE AFTER EACH TRAIT AS IT CORRESPONDS TO WHETHER OR NOT THE TRAIT IS DESCRIPTIVE OF THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE) LEAST DESCRIPTIVE MOST DESCRIPTIVE ENERGETIC 2 ORDERLY POETIC WARY LUSTY DOMINANT SPONTANEOUS RESPECTFUL DARING PRECISE MEEK PERSISTENT ARDENT DETERMINED 01 —l —l u—l —-l —l —J —l .—J —l -l and -—l —d —J N N N m N N N m N N N N m w w w w w w w w w w w w w w A A A A A A A A A A A‘ A A A kn U1 01 m 01 U1 0'! m 01 01 01 01 01 I 01 7‘ PART II: PERSONALITY TRAITS (Continued) LEAST DESCRIPTIVE MOST DESCRIPTIVE LEISURELY I 2 3 4 5 EMOTIONAL T 2 3 4 5 AMBITIOUS T 2 3 4 5 DELIBERATE T 2 _3 - 4 5 TRUSTING ‘T 2 3 4 5 SENTIMENTAL I 2 3 4 5 CAUTIOUS I 2 3 4 5 REFINED I 2 3 4 5 -53- PLEASE COMPLETE ALL SECTIONS OF THE QUESTIONNAIRE FOR EVERY SLIDE. IF YOU THINK YOU KNOW THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE, HOW WELL? HAVE SEEN MORE THAN ONCE KNOW CASUALLY KNOW WELL PART I: SOCIO ECONOMIC STATUS (CHECK ONE IN EACH OF THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES v AS IT PERTAINS TO THE SLIDE) ESTIMATED FAMILY INCOME LEVEL: LOWER THAN $5,000 $5,000 - $6,900 $7,000 - $9,000 $10,000 - $24,000 $25,000 AND OVER AGE GROUP OF THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE: T8 - 24 25 - 32 OCCUPATION: STUDENT IN THEATRE ARTS SECRETARY STUDENT IN COMMUNICATION ARTS PART II: PERSONALITY TRAITS (CIRCLE THE NUMBER FROM ONE TO FIVE AFTER EACH TRAIT AS IT CORRESPONDS TO WHETHER OR NOT THE TRAIT IS DESCRIPTIVE OF THE PERSON IN THE SLIDE) ‘ LEAST DESCRIPTIVE MOST DESCRIPTIVE 2 ,5 2. LEISURELY EMOTIONAL AMBITIOUS DELIBERATE TRUSTING SENTIMENTAL CAUTIOUS REFINED ENERGETIC ORDERLY POETIC WARY LUSTY DOMINANT N I dd—ldc—I—lu—l—l—J—l—lu—Iu—l—d wwwwwwwwwwwwww AAAAAAAAAAAAAA 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 _5 5 5 5 5 NNNNNNNNNNN I 01 ‘P PART II: PERSONALITY TRAITS (Continued) LEAST DESCRIPTIVE MOST DESCRIPTIVE SPONTANEOUS T 2 3 4 5 RESPECTFUL T 2 3 4 5 DARING T 2 3 4 5 PRECISE T 2 3 4 5 MEEK 'T 2 3 4 5 PERSISTENT I 2 3 4 5 ARDENT I 2 3 4 5 DETERMINED T 2 3 4 5 -70- PART I C 11";qu (2 UN SENT FORM RESEARCH TITLE: DRESS A5 A MEDIUM UF CUMMLNICATION UF SUCILTAL IDEDFITY AND PLRSUNALIIY TRAITS DATE: 1,. , CONSENT TO TAKE PART IN PATRICIA TRAUTMAN'S IAYLSPIOATION. I CADLASTAAD THAT A COLOR SLILL MILL BE TAKEN 0P ME, IN UUICU AT PAUL HILL DD BLACAUMLD T0 SA”EGUARD MY IDENTITY. I ALSO LNDCUSIAAD THAT PARTICIPATION IS VOLLNTAAI, AND THAT THIS RDSLARCU UAS DSDM APPROVED BY A BOARD OP REVIEWERS AT MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY. IN CASS OP IRRBUUKCILABLB DIPPLADACSS UITM THE RESEARCULR, I MAI UITUDUAU PROM THE STUDY AT ANT TIME, IN WHICH CASS THE RESUARCULR LILL DDSTROY ANY INPURMATION ODTAINLD PRDM MS. THU RESEARCHER AORDLS THAT FULL DISCLOSURE AND RBLEASE 0F RESBARCM DATA WILL BE ONLY FOR THE PURPOSE oTATED. SIGNS”: ADDRESS: -7]... MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY -- East Lansing, Michigan, #8823 T0 Patricia Trautman The prOJ'ect entitled Thesis proposal - Selection of a method for measuring a person's social identity and selective non—pathological per senality_traits whose principal investigator will be ~—.—.—— Patricia Traut man has been reviewed by our institutional’committee for the use of human subjects. This application does not include activities involving human subjects. X 'This application includes activities involving human subjects. Our committee has reviewed and approved it on 3/5/73 Asst. Coordinator for Health Programs Title 3/5/73 Date -72- AIICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY EAST LANSING . MICHIGAN 43823 OFFICE OI INSTITUTIONAL RESEARCH - 331 )OHN A. HAA'NAH ADMINISTRATION BUILDING m “£35m! lid De. TO: E . JAMES STOI‘IEIAAN FROM: MR. BILL GUNN fix! éw . 2%15/73 SUBJECT: ATTACHED REQUEST ‘ THE ATTACHED REQUEST HAS BEEN APPROVED BY THE COVMITTEE ON RELEASE OF INFORMATION AND APPROVAL OF CUESTIONNAIRES. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS DECISION; PLEASE CONTACT ME AT 5-6627. * ‘ . -73- IO WHUM CUNCLRNED: I request permission to obtain from student records the names, local addresses, birthdays, and telephone numbers of female majors in communication arts anu theatre dILS between the ages of 18 and 35. The information will be used to procure subjects for Patricia Arautman's (Department of lluzuan Environment and Design) masters research in the area of Dress as a media of communication. Previous permission to conduct the research was granted. by the University Committee for the Use of Human QUDJGCLS in Research, after assurance was given tnat the anonymity of tne suDJects would no safeguarucd. -79- It) MIIUPI CIJYCIJINLJ): I request permission to obtain from personnel the names, local addresses, oirthdays, and telephone numbers of female secretaries and clerk-typists between the ages of 13 and 35. ”he information will be USed to procure subJects for Patricia Trautman's 'Deuartment of Human Environment and Desivn) masters l 0 research in the area of dress as a media of communiCation. Previous permission to conduct the research was grantee by the University Committee for the Lse of Human oanects in Research, after assurance was given that the anonymity of the subjects would be safeguarded. -75- "llIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII . 5' d‘ , .- ;. .4 . ‘cz- ,