DEVELOPMENT OF A MEASUREMENT METHOD OF FITTING COMMERCIAL PATTERNS
AND A COMPARISON OF THIS METHOD WITH PIN FITTING

By

Rita Janice Adrosko

A THESIS

Submitted to the College of Home Economics of Michigan State
University of.Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing and.Related Arts

1957

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation
to Miss Evelyn A. Mansfield, Associate Professor of Clothing,
Textiles and Related.Arts, for her inspiration and guidance;
to Miss Hazel B. Strahan, Head of Textiles, Clothing and
Related Arts, for her interest in the study; to the faculty
members, graduate students and undergraduates who assisted

in various phases of the study.

The writer wants eSpecially to thank the twenty under-
graduates who generously gave their time and interest.
Their assistance was essential to the success of the study.

******%*%**

ii

TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I DEFINITIONS AND SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES........................
II METHODS AND PROCEDURES.....................................
III PRESENTATION OF DATA.......................................

I. Definitions of Terms Used in Presentation of Data..

II. Figure Characteristics.............................
III. Diagrams and Discussion of Pin Fitted and

Measurement Fitted Bodices......................

IV COMPARISON OF RESULTS OF MEASUREMENT AND PIN FITTING

REULTS..0.0000000000000000...OOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0.0.0....

I. Method Which Produced the Better Fitting Garment...

II. Method Which.Required More Skill...................

III. Time Required by Each Fitting Method...............
IV. How Each Method Could be Used to Fit Different

Figure variationSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

V. Suggestions for Further Study......................

Bm‘IOm-APHYOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0.0...

”Pm-DICEOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO...0.0.0.0...COCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO00....

Appendix.A -- Forms and Measurements Used in Measurement

FittingOOOOOOOOOOCOOOOOOO...OOIOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Appendix B -- Measurement Fitting Procedures for Twelve
Typical FigureSoooooooooooooooooa...00000000000.

Appendix C -- General Fitting Suggestions.....................

iii

Page

1

h
23

25
27

29

115
115
119
123

125
131

133
13h

13h

139
151

TABLE

II

III

IV

LIST OF TABLES

Page
Body Measurement Points Illustrated in Figure 2.......... 9

Body Measurements with Corresponding Pattern Measurements
Illustrated in Figllre 3.0.0.0....OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 12

Figure Types Represented in This Study................... 28

Fitting Faults in Muslin Proofs.......................... 132

iv

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIGURE Page

Commercial Pattern Used in the Study....................... 5
Body Measurement Points.................................... 8
Body Measurements with CorreSponding Pattern Measurements.. 11
Pattern Measurements with CorreSponding Body Measurements.. l7
Measurement Fitting Procedure 12-1......................... 139
Measurement Fitting Procedure 12-2......................... lho
Measurement Fitting Procedure 12-h......................... lhl
Measurement Fitting Procedure 12-5......................... lh2
Measurement Fitting Procedure lh-l......................... lh3
Measurement Fitting Procedure lh-3......................... lhh
Measurement Fitting Procedure 16-1......................... lbs
Measurement Fitting Procedure 16-h......................... 1h6
Measurement Fitting Procedure 18—1......................... 1h?
Measurement Fitting Procedure 18-2......................... 1h8
Measurement Fitting Procedure 18-h......................... lh9
Measurement Fitting Procedure 18-5......................... 150

Front to Back Balance Differences.......................... 153

CHAPTER I
DEFINITIONS AND SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES

Every clothes-conscious woman, whether she buys or sews her own
clothes, can appreciate the value of a well-fitted garment. It not only
looks attractive and feels comfortable, but gives good service, because
there is sufficient ease at points of strain.

Many women who sew would like to have perfectly fitted garments.
However, their figures are so different from commercial pattern sizes
that their patterns must be altered before they fit perfectly.

There are two major stages in the construction of a garment at
which fitting faults may be altered. The pattern tissue can be altered
before it is out out of fabric, or the garment can be altered after it
has been cut out and basted. The more practical method--from the stand-
point of accuracy and economy of time and fabric--is the method by
which commercial pattern tissue is altered before being cut. This
method allows an Opportunity for any type of alteration, careful check-

ing of grain accuracy, and adequacy of seam allowances.
I . DEFINITIONS

Many methods of altering commercial patterns have been devised--
sonmzmore successful than others. One of the most accurate methods of

:flitting commercial pattern tissues is pin fitting. In this method the

commercial pattern tissue is pinned tOgether (on all markings for darts
and seams) and tried on the figure, pinned at the center front and
center back to ribbons placed horizontally around the figure. Any ex-
cess fulness is pinned out exactly where it is located on the figure.
To allow for inadequate ease the tissue is slashed and spread exactly
where it is needed.

A rather widely used, but less accurate method of altering com-
mercial patterns is measurement fitting. In this process the pattern
and figure are measured. Common measurements of both the pattern and
figure are compared and differences adjusted without trying the pattern
on the individual until the garment is cut out and basted.

The first method provides an accurate way of fitting, but one
which requires assistance. The second method, which can be done without
assistance (after body measurements are taken), is not as accurate as
pin fitting. Not all figure variations can be detected through measure-
ment fitting. Most important, it is difficult to determine exactly

where pattern.changes are needed.
II. SPECIFIC OBJECTIVES

lDevelopment of a Method of Measurement Fitting

Previous methods of measurement fitting-~comparing body and
paimern measurements then adjusting the pattern tissue according to
cthferences-éhave often been unsuccessful where unusual figure vari-
ations were present. (1) Many figure variations could not be detected

through measurements. (2) Undesirable body proportions could not be

detected through measurement fitting. (3) It was difficult to obtain
accurate measurements because of the difficulty of locating standard
landmarks. (h) Easy allowances differ with each style of pattern and,
to some extent, with the individual's build.

A.newly devised method of measurement fitting would attempt to
overcome these drawbacks by (1) taking a very complete set of measure-
ments; (2) by planning landmarks according to underlying bone and
muscle structure; (3) by observing outstanding figure characteristics,
then using these observations, plus the measurements to make pattern

alterations.

Comparinngesults of Pin,Fittinggand Measurement Fitting

The newly devised measurement fitting method would be compared
to the standard pin fitting method (1) to decide if satisfactory fit
could be obtained through measurements and figure observations alone;
(2) to discover which figure variations could and could not be success-
fully detected and corrected m through measurement fitting; (3) to
compare differences in amount of time required for measurement fitting
and.pin fitting; (h) to decide, by comparing both methods, which one
‘would'be most valuable for the seamstress with a minimum of alteration
experience; (5) to find, if measurement alone was not completely
sainsfactory, a way of combining the best features of both methods for

tan.awcurate, efficient method of fitting pattern tissues.

CHAPTER II
METHODS AND PROCEDURES

This report on investigation procedures has been divided into
three parts. The first includes the steps used in developing the
measurement fitting method, up to the point at which the measurement
fitted pattern tissue was made into a muslin bodice proof. The second
gives a description of pin fitting procedures. The final section
explains how the measurement fitting method was compared to the pin
fitting method.

I. DEVELOPMENT OF A.MEASUREM2NT METHOD OF FITTING
COMMERCIAL DRESS PATTERNS
Subjects Chosen

Twenty subjects were chosen from among students in the beginning
clothing construction course at Michigan State University. This group
included girls between the ages of 17 and 2h. Five girls in each of
the most commonly used sizes--12, 1h, 16, 18--took part in the study.
Each subject was selected because her figure required more than the
usual number of pattern alterations. Each figure also differed in
type from the others within the same size, therefore these subjects
represented a range of size and figure variations wide enough to cover
nmny common fitting problems. It also provided a sufficient number of

variations to test the effectiveness of the measurement fitting method

 

 

FIGURE 1.

 

A. VOGUE PATTERN 89378

B. MUSLIN BODICE MADE FROM ‘ “Q
VOGUE 8937B

COMMERCIAL PATTERN USED IN THE STUDY

 

 

 

for figures with a greater-than-average number of pattern alterations.

Selection of the Pattern

One pattern was selected for all experimentation. It was decided
that the pattern chosen should be from one of the major pattern company's
recent counter catalogues. It was to be a regular stock pattern made '
according to the newly revised commercial pattern size standards. Style
requirements were limited to certain bodice features since this study
would deal with the fitting needs of the upper half of the figure. The
pattern was to have a basic neckline, normal armscye with set-in long
or three-quarter length sleeves, a normal waistline seam, and a single
waist dart on either side of both front and back. The three-quarter

sleeved version of Vogue Pattern 8937, sketched in Figure I, page 5,

fulfilled all of these requirements.

Establishing_Measurement Points

Key points on the body were pencil marked to guide measurement
lines. These marks, based on bone or muscle structure, were called
"measurement points." These measurement points had to be clearly
defined and easy to locate, for accuracy in measuring depended to a
great extent on the correct location of these points. Measurement
points were plarmed so that the least possible judgment was needed to
locate them, (Figure II, page 8) This meant that a person who could
follow directions could take body measurements, even though he had

little knowledge of body structure.

In spite of this planning, some difficulties were encountered in

locating measurement points. For example, these landmarks were often
Iddden.by layers of flesh. When this occurred, or when the subject's
posture made standard seam locations unattractive, judgment was required
to adjust measurement points to suit the individual's needs.

These measurement points were bases for the body measurements
illustrated in Figure III, page 11. Each body measurement had a
corre3ponding measurement on the pattern bodice, as indicated in
Figure IV, page 17.

(Although there were uh body measurements originally, this number
was reduced to include only 3l body measurements. It became apparent
that some measurements, although valuable for a particular style
(e.g., a rib cage measurement would be useful for a smoothemidriff
Empire dress), were not necessary for fitting a basic bodice. However,
if measurement fitting was used on differently styled garments, extra

measurements might be necessary to fit special style features.

Measuring_Equipment

All measuring instruments were commonly used items. The only
"unusual" piece of equipment was a thin cotton knit "vest," which all
subjects wore for measuring, (and later fitting) appointments. This
vest was e3pecially helpful in keeping measuring tapes (and later,
horizontal pinfitting ribbons) securely fastened. Because these
"vests" came in small, medium and large sizes, they did not bind or

distort body measurements .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FIGURE 2. BODY NEASUREMFNT POINTS

 

~TABLE I

BODY MEASUREMENT POINTS ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE II

1. NECKBASE - front: Point on the upper part of the hollow at the
base of the throat, on a line with the upper edge of
the horizontal bones.

2. NECKBASE - back: Point at center of the vertebra most prominent
when head is bent forward (mark this point with the
head in an.upright position).

3. NECKBASE - sides: Point on the shoulder seam as high as, or
lower than the back neckbase landmark (located.by
connecting front and back neckbase landmarks with
measuring tape).

h, SHOULDER TIP: Dent between shoulder bone and arm'bone at the
edge of the shoulder line (can be located when the
upper arm is raised and lowered).

5. ARMSCYE AT NARROWEST PART OF FRONT: Point 3" below the CF neck-
base, drawn in a horizontal line to armscye, on a
line with the crease formed when the arm is down.

6. ARMSCYE AT NARROWEST PART OF BACK: Point h" below the CB neck-
base, drawn in a horizontal line to armscye, on a
line with the vertical back muscle located when the
subject moves her arm forward.

7. UNDERARM: Point where the t0p of the side seam would normally
fa11,half way between the front and back,a half inch
below the armpit when arm is down. (A plumb line
drOpped along the body from this point should not be
conspicuous either from front or back.)

8. BUST POINT: Tip of the bust.

9.Cfi‘-»on bust line: Midpoint of the front at bust level (check
verbally with the subject).

10. GB - on bust line: Midpoint of the back at bust level (can be

checked by locating the center of a coinciding
vertebra).

IIoEMISTLINE: Line where the body creases when bent forward or
backward (check verbally with the subject).

10

12. CF - on waist line: Midpoint of the front on the waist line
(check verbally with the subject).

13. CB - on waist line: Midpoint of the back on the waist line
(can be located at the center of a coinciding
vertebra, but also check with the subject).

1h. SIDE SEAM - on waist line: Point on the waist line half way
between front and back (located visually).

15. UNDERARM - on arm: Point on the arm corresponding to the body
underarm -- 1/2" below the crease formed by the
arm when it is down.

16. ELBOW POINT: Center point of the bone tip when the arm is bent.

13. INSIDE ELBOW: Hollow point on the inside of the elbow.

18. WRIST POINT: Center of the prominent bone on lower side of
wrist.

19. INSIDE WRIST: Center of wrist directly above palm of hand.

-11

 

“ ill \ll‘l‘lfil'llliz

 

ARMS

BODY MEASUREMENTS WITH CORRESPONDING

PATTERN MEASUREMENTS

FIGURE 3 .

12

TABLE II

BODY MEASUREMENTS
WITH CORRESPONDING PATTERN MEASUREMENTS
ILLUSTRATED IN FIGURE III

NOTE: All measurements are for right side unless otherwise indicated.

Egrizontal Measurements

l &,2. NECKBASE - front and back: Line from the topmost vertebra at
the CB to the side of the neckbase at the shoulder
to the CF at the base of the throat.

3. SHOULDER LENGTH: Line from side of the neckbase to the shoulder
tip (measured with arm down).

h. SHOULDER TIP TO TIP - back: Horizontal line between right and left
shoulder tip points.

5. NARROWEST PART OF FRONT: Horizontal line 3" below the neckbase,
connecting the left and right front armscye points.

6. NARROWEST PART OF BACK: Horizontal line b" below the neckbase
connecting the left and right back armscye points.

7 &,8. SCYELINE - front and.back: Body circumference at the scye
level, l/2" below the underarm; measurement taken
from right underarm, across front to left underarm,
across back in one line (though separate front and
back measurements are recorded).

9 & lO. BUSTLINE - front and.back: Body circumference of bust line
(on a level with the fullest part of the bust;
measurement procedure same as for scyeline).

ll. BUST POINT TO CF: Line from the bust point to the CF at bust
level.

12 & 13. WAISTLINE - front and back: Line formed where the body
creases when.bent forward or backward (check
verbally with the subject; measurement procedure
same as for scyeline).

Vertical.Measurements

1h. CF NECKBASE TO CF BUSTLINE Measured in one motion from CF neck-
15. CF BUST TO CF WAIST base to CF waist. Distance from
neckbase to bust point and from bust
point to the lower edge of waist tape are recorded
separately (check verbally with the subject for exact
CF bust and waist).

13

16. MIDSHOULDER TO BUST POINT Measured in one motion from the mid-
17. BIB! POINT TO SIDE WAIST shoulder to the side waist, after
the midpoint of the shoulder seam
and a point on waistline half way between CF and
side seam are established. Distances to the bust-
point are recorded separately.

18. SHOULDER TIP TO FRONT BUST LEVEL Measured in one motion from
19. FRONT BUST LEVEL TO WAIST shoulder tip to waist, after
establishing a measurement
point on the waist l" in front of the side seam.
Distances to the intersecting point at bust level
are recorded separately.

20. GB NECKBASE TO CB BUST LEVEL Measurement procedure same as for
21. CB BUST LEVEL TO CB WAIST lb - 15 above.

22. MIDSHOULDER TO SIDE BUST LEVEL Measured in one motion from
23. SIDE BUST LEVEL TO SIDE WAIST shoulder to side waist, after
establishing points at bust and
waist levels, half way between the CB and side seam,
Distances to bust level recorded separately.

2h. SHOULDER TIP TO BACK BUST LEVEL Measurement procedure same as
25. BACK BUST LEVEL TO WAIST for 18 - 19 above.

Arm Measurements

261 CAP WIDTH (UPPER ARM WIDTH): On a level half way between shoulder
tip and girth, from front to back armscye points
(armscye points are also used for narrowest part of
front and back measurements).

27. GIRTH: Circumference of the fullest part of the upper arm at a
level established by the underarm point. (Measured
with the tape held loosely while the arm is per-
pendicular to floor).

28. ELBOW: Measured around fullest part of the elbow over the bone
when the elbow is bent.

29. SLEEVE LOWER EDGE: For the three-quarter length pushup sleeve
this measurement was the circumference of arm was
on a level with inside part of the bent elbow as
shown in Figure III. (For a long-sleeved garment
this measurement would be a wrist measurement.)

T. iluil‘llllllli -
.

 

 

1h

30. OVERARM, SHOULDER TO ELBOW: Shoulder tip to elbow bone (measured
with arm bent).
31a UNDERARM, ARMPIT TO INSIDE ELBOW:

Underarm point to inside part
of elbow. ‘

NOTE: For a long-sleeved garment 30 and 31 measurements would have

been extended as far as the wrist (to points 18 and 19 shown

in Figure II) using one motion of the tape for both the upper
arm and lower arm.measurements.

15

Among other instruments used were: a flexible metal tape
measure, l/Ll." black cotton twill tape (for marking bust, waist and

side seam measurement lines), straight pins, and a soft greased pencil

(for marking measurement points on the skin).

Measurement Process

1. The knit "vest" was placed over regular undergarments.

2. Black twill tape, with a light weight at one end, was pinned
to the underarm position (on each side) where side seam normally starts.
Its lower end was pinned to the "vest" at the waistline in a position
perpendicular to the floor.

Tapes were placed around the bust line parallel to the floor.
These were secured to the "vest" with pine placed at the bust point,
side seams, CB and CF.

The waist tape was pinned smoothly (but not tightly) around the
waist circumference. Pins were placed at all measurement points at
the waist level.

3. All the body measurements (illustrated in Figure III, page 11
and explained in Table II, pages 12-11;) were taken and recorded to the
nearest eighth of an inch. Body measurements taken with a metal tape
tended to be slightly shorter than those which might be taken with a
linen tape. For that reason it was found best to take circumference
measurements "slightly loose" rather than "slightly tight."

All vertical measurements were taken) to the middle of the bust

tape, but to the lower edge of the waist tape, to allow adequate waist
length.

16

It was important that the subject stand as straight, but as re-
laxed, as possible. A "slumping" subject could make vertical measure-
ments too short, while a very stiff subject (e.g., one who held her
breath while her waist was being measured) could increase the bust
measurement and decrease the waist measurement.

h, After all measurements were taken each subject's weight and
height were recorded and her individual figure characteristics were
observed and recorded. The characteristics checked included points of

posture, bone structure and flesh distribution.

Translating Measurements into Pattern Alterations

1. Correct pattern size was determined by trying on fitting
jackets made from standard.basic patterns. Each pattern was measured
in the areas which corresponded to the body measurements shown in
Figure IV, page 17.

2. Each set of body measurements was then subtracted from its
corresponding set of pattern measurements to obtain the difference
between them.

3. Standard ease allowances1 were subtracted from the differences
between.measurements when there was a "plus" difference (e.g. when the
pattern measurement was larger than the body measurement in that area).
Ease allowances were added to the differences between measurements when

there was a “minus" difference (e.g. when the pattern measurement was

1

Marion S. Hillhouse and Evelyn A. Mansfield, Dress Design,
Qzaping and Flat Pattern Making,(New'York: Houghton Mifflin 00.,
19148: pp. 24-27, 113 -116.

17

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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7

FIGURE h. PATTERN MEASUREMENTS WITH CORRESPONDING
BODY MEASUREMENTS

18

smaller than the body measurement in that area). Ease allowances were
made only in areas where they were needed for ease of body movement.

h. When measurements were too short or too long these differences
were noted. The exact amount to be added or subtracted was then written
directly on the pattern at its exact location.

5. When all pattern differences were written on each pattern
tissue, these differences were checked in this order:

a. All vertical measurements to bust line - front, then

b. :IIkvertical measurements to waist - front, then.back.

c. All horizontal measurements on the same level (e.g.
bust or waist), starting at the top of the pattern,
progressing downward.

d. All sleeve measurements - horizontal, then vertical

Note that all changes in armhole size also require adjustments
in sleeve ease (and vice versa). Therefore, both armhole and sleeve
measurements were checked against each other as the last step before
the fitted pattern was ready to be laid on the fabric. Sleeve ease was
then reduced.or increased accordingly, so that there would be the
correct amount of ease in the front and back sleeve cap.

6. Related alterations were combined as often as possible.

7. Observations of figure characteristics were compared to
numerical changes indicated. _These figure observations were often
useful in deciding at which point on a specific line an alteration
should be made.

8. All alterations were planned before any single part of the

pattern was changed.

l9

9. Closely related measurements (e.g., scye and bust) often
served as checks against each other in making certain that planned
alterations were correct. This check was eSpecially necessary if
changes were very great or if they did not seem to coincide with figure
characteristics.

10. The complete measurement plan was then rechecked and carried
out. First, corrections within the pattern were made, then darts and
seam lines were corrected and trued (or "smoothed out," where over-
lappings or slashes did not coincide exactly). For a detailed account
of the procedures used to translate measurements into pattern altera-

tions see Appendix B.

MakingpAltered.Patterns into Muslin Proofs

l. The pattern was laid out and pinned to the muslin.1 All seams,
darts and notches were traced on to the muslin in contrasting-colored
carbon paper.

2. These pattern pieces were cut out with one inch seam allow-
ances all around, except the lower edge, which was given an inch and
a.half allowance.

3. These muslin proofs (consisting of fronts and a back with a
separate right sleeve) were sewn together with a long machine stitch
(6 stitches per inch) on the traced lines.

h. All seams and darts were pressed, but no seam edges were

finished.

k

1
Evelyn A. Mansfield, Clothin Construction, (New York: Houghton
lfifflin Company, 1953) PP. 115-119.

20

II. PIN FITTING PROCEDURES

Use of subjects and Pattern

The same subjects who were measurement fitted were also pin
fitted. The same pattern, Vogue 8937, was likewise used in both cases,
so that the only foreseeable variation would be in the fitting methods.
In order that transference of ideas from pin fitting to measurement
fitting might be avoided, the two methods were never compared, and the
two separate sets of pattern tissues were not placed side by side until

they were cut out in muslin.

Pin Fitting Procedures

Standard pin fitting procedures were used (as discussed in detail
in Evelyn A. Mansfield's Clothing Constructionl). Pattern tissues were
pressed and pinned tOgether as indicated, then placed on the subject
and pinned to horizontal ribbons at CF and CB neckbase, bustline, and
waist. .Again, the knitted cotton "vest" was used to support the
horizontal ribbons.

Excess ease was pinned out with wedges or overlappings; areas
with inadequate ease were slashed and Spread, with spread areas pinned
to an extra piece of tissue underneath. These correction wedges, over-

lappings and slashes were then transferred to existing seams and darts,

or created new darts.

1
Evelyn A. Mansfield, Clothin Construction, (New YOrk: Houghton
Mifflin Campers, 1953) pp. 55-73; 33-91

21

Making Altered Patterns into Muslin Proofs
This procedure exactly duplicated the one used for the measurement

fitted muslins described on page 19.

III. COMPARISON OF BOTH FITTING METHODS

The Perfectly Fitted Garment

Before the success of the measurement fitting method could be
evaluated, it was necessary to compare the results of both methods.
First, standards for judging both methods were set up. These standards

consisted of all the features that should be found in a perfectly fitted

garment. They include:
1. COMFORT. Sufficient ease for comfortable body movement.

2. APPEARANCE. Smooth fitting appearance with no excess fabric
held in bulges or wrinkles (except for ease).

3. CAMOUFLAGE. Concealment of figure irregularities caused by
a variation in posture, bone structure, or flesh distribution.

)4. STYLE. Helped to carry out design effect (a blousy bodice
should have sufficient ease to create the effect desired, but
not so much that it would be uncomfortably loose; a princess
line dress should be smooth, but not too tightly fitted).

Comparing Results

The measurement and pin fitting methods were compared on the follow-
ing basis:
1. The number of fitting faults that showed in the muslin proof.
2. The importance of each fault-~whether it could be corrected
without making a major change in the structure of a pattern

section (e.g., if a bulge indicated that the entire upper
back section had to be redraped, it was considered a major

 

 

22

change) or whether the fault required a simple edge
correction (e.g., raising or lowering shoulders, increasing

or decreasing waist circumference).

Each measurement fitting fault was analyzed to determine
whether it was caused.by incorrect ease allowance, incorrect
placement of body landmarks, or whether the fault was caused
by an unusual body contour which could not be located with
the measurements available.

The comfort of each bodice was judged by the individual on
whom it was fitted.

CHAPTER III
PRESENTATION OF DATA

This chapter is divided into three sections. The first includes

ciefinitions of many terms used in a Specialized way in the discussions

of the fitting methods.

The second section consists of a brief discussion of figure types
:as they were used in this study, and a Chart showing the figure type of

each individual in the study.

The third section contains detailed diagrams and a discussion of
(each of the twenty figures used in the study. Each individual figure
tnas given a code number. The first number of each figure represents its

ruittern size. The second number indicates the order in which the figure

'wnxs fitted. All figures are arranged in numerical order, with size

112-l.followed by 12-2, to 12-5. The size 1h‘s, 16's and 18's followed

the same pattern .

The report for each figure includes:

1. Figure Analysis
a. Size of the figure
b. Figure characteristics

2. Pin Fitting Data
a. Diagram of alterations in the pin fitted bodice

b. Tissue overlay of changes needed in the muslin

proof of the bodice
0. Detailed explanation of each.pattern fault and

its alteration technique

23

2h

3. Measurement Fitting Data
Same as for pin fitting

h. A comparison of the results of measurement and pin
fitting for the individual figure

In the diagrams solid lines represent the original pattern out-

line; broken lines indicate pattern revisions. Shaded areas indicate

overlapped areas where pattern size was reduced. Although each quarter

size diagram was drawn to scale as closely as possible, some alterations

were exaggerated to show them more clearly.

25

I. DEFINITIONS OF TERMS USED IN PRESENTATION OF DATA

BALANCE -.A balanced relationship between the front and back of the
bodice above and below an imaginary line drawn through the
fullest part of the bust, parallel to the floor (Appendix C,
figure 17, page 153.

BELOW SCYE LINE -’Refers to a line across the back of the bodice,
between the waist dart point and scye line.

BULGE -.A large definite fold at a seam edge, tapering off within the
pattern; caused by excessive fulness held in one area.

CB - Center back.
CF ~ Center front.
EASY - Having more than average ease (usually desirable).

EXCESS - More ease than needed for comfortable movement; results in
unflattering wrinkles or bulges.

INADEQUATE - Insufficient ease for comfortable movement; insufficient
amount to cover the complete area; results in tightness which

pulls adjacent areas. lug“? —-:‘P‘m3m:4°::n
m .' mm ka1
ml..." M“M—— W ”qr
mm— flmr u rm
LOCATION OF FITTING AREAS a. M .6
IN QUARTER SIZE DIAGRAMS mg 4... mn— w... a"
we Awfl'AIRm

W “RT,

IHASTER PATTERN - Basic pattern with no special style features; has
minimum darting required to shape the garment to the figure;
used in pattern drafting as a foundation from which more
intricately designed styles are developed.

MUSLIN PROOF - The muslin bodice made from each pattern tissue that was
pin fitted and measurement fitted. Each individual in the study
had one pin fitted and one measurement fitted muslin.proof.

OVERLAP - Alteration to shorten an area between two pattern edges; the
slashed edge is laid over the corresponding edge to eliminate
excess length or width.A

IUEOMINENT - Bone or flesh area outstanding enough to cause a wrinkle
or bulge to radiate from it.

26

PUFF -.A small raised area of excess fulness concentrated at a dart
tip; caused by a too sharply tapering dart or a dart which ends
over a flat area.

REDRAPING -'Procedure used to correct fitting faults of a garment that
has been basted together; it requires shifting of the faulty
pattern.piece(s) and adjustment of related dart and seam edges
until a good fitting effect is achieved.

SCYE - The balance line of the bodice-a level line a half inch below
the armpit when the arm is down at the side; the lowest part of
the armhole.1

SLIGHT - (referring to a correction) An amount small enOUgh to be eased
or simply eliminated in a seam or dart edge.

SMOOTH FITTING - Having a small amount of ease (sometimes, but not
always desirable).

WEDGE - Triangular overlap, eliminating excess at one end (at a dart
or seam edge), tapering off to nothing at the other end; very
Often a wedge tapers off within the pattern, and a slash is
then; introduced to flatten the pattern and transfer ease to
another edge.

ERINKLE -.A small fold (or group of small parallel folds) indicating
too much ease or too little ease between two points within the
pattern piece.

1
(U Marion S. Hillhouse and Evelyn A. Mansfield. Dress Design,
“Oughton Mifflin Company, New York, 19h8), PP. 193-44-

27

II. FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

To give a clear picture of the general build of each individual
in the study, each figure was "typed." Individual height-weight
relationships were established by comparing them with tables of average
height and weight relationships for specific age groups.

Since the tables set up by two authorities1 differed slightly,
each figure on both tables was averaged to obtain the average weights
used.

Heights were arbitrarily described as "short" for figures 5'1" to
S'h", "medium" for figures 5'h" to 5'7", and "tall“ for figures 5'?"
to 6' . 1

weight descriptions were classed differently. Each classification
was based on the number of pounds it differed from the established
average weight for its height. Weight classes included:

Extremely slender - more than 10, but less than 20 lbs.1ighter
than average

Very slender - more than 5, but less than 10 lbs.1ighter
than average

Slender - less than 5 lbs.1ighter than average

Average

Average full - less than 5 lbs.heavier than average

Slightly full - more than 5, but less than 10 lbs.heavier
than average -

Very full - more than 10, but less than 20 lbs.heavier

than average
Extremely full - more than 20 lbs.heavier than average

1Grace Madfleod and Clara Mae Taylor, Rose's Foundations of
N. utrition (Macmillan Company: _New York, 1911i),p. 5'71; Harry Hansen,
ed., Average Height and Weight (Equitable Life Assurance Society, 191m),
13KB WOrld.Almanac and Book of Facts for 1957_(New'YOrk: New York

FIGURE TYPES REPRESENTED IN THIS STUDY

Extremely slender
Very slender
Slender

Average

Average full
Slightly full
Very full
Extremely full

TABLE III

MEDIUM

28

TALL

 

 

 

SHORT
I: .1h 16' 18
X

X

X

12
X

1111618

12 1h 16 18
X

III. DIAGRAMS AND DISCUSSION OF PIN FITTED AND
MEASUREMENT FITTED BODICE

 

 

 

29

Pattern Fault
FRONT

lP - Horizontal wrinkle - CF neck-
base to armhole

2P - Excess side width - armhole to
waist

3P - Underarm dart puffy (due to
excess depth)

BACK

hP - Horizontal wrinkle - armhole
to CB below neckbase

5P - Inadequate ease over shoulder
blade

6P — Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point (due to in-
adequate ease over lower part
of shoulder blade)

7P - Bodice too long at CB

 

Pattern.Alteration

Horizontal wedge - CF (0") to armhole
(3M)

Vertical wedge - armhole (1”) to waist

(1/8")

Horizontal overlap through dart to 2?
correction reducing dart depth

(1/8")

Horizontal wedge - CB (0") to armhole

0/14.")

Vertical slash-spread shoulder (1/8") to
hP alteration

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h”)
to side back, spread at dart point
(l/h”); resulted in deeper waist
dart

Horizontal overlap - CB (3/8") to
side seam (0")

 

 

 

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PIN FITTING

12-1 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 12
BUST 32

WAIST 2h 3/h
HIPS --

HEIGHT 5'h"

WEIGHT 120 lbs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

29

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

lP - Horizontal wrinkle - CF neck-
base to armhole

2P - Excess side width - armhole to
waist

3P - Underarm dart puffy (due to
excess depth)

BACK

UP - Horizontal wrinkle - armhole
to CB below neckbase

5P - Inadequate ease over shoulder
blade

6P - Diagonal bulge — armhole to
waist dart point (due to in-
adequate ease over lower part
of shoulder blade)

7P - Bodice too long at CB

Pattern Alteration

 

Horizontal wedge — CF (0") to armhole

(3/h")

Vertical wedge - armhole (1") to waist

(1/8" )

Horizontal overlap through dart to 2?
correction reducing dart depth

(1/8")

Horizontal wedge - CB (0") to armhole

(3/1130

Vertical slash—spread shoulder (1/8”) to
UP alteration

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h")
to side back, spread at dart point
(l/h"); resulted in deeper waist
dart

{orizontal overlap - CB (3/8") to
side seam (0")

 

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P ttern Fault

 

’PiflNT

4" 1m» 1 “f ,l , “-13“
'LCh 49:11 .1.c>‘IlL 41.:

2h - Excess bust width

77

3H — axcess side width

mm — Excess side seam length

5M - Inadequate shoulder length

“H ~ Inadequate width - shoulder to
waist
7M — Excess side seam length

30

P ttern Alteration

 

Shoulder seam lengthened - at nec
edge (1/8") and armhole edge
(l/u")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0”) to
waist dart point, reducing bust

width (3/8")

Vertical wedge ~ armhole (3/8”) to
waist (0")

Horizontal wedge above waist - side
seam (1") to CF (0")

Shoulder seam lengthened - at neck
edge (1/8") and armhole edge
<1/u">

Vertical slash Spread evenly -
shoulder to waist (l/h"); shoulder
addition was eased

Horizontal wedge above waistvside
seam (1") to CF (0")

 

 

 

 

FIGURE TYPE:

BONE STRUCTURE:

FLESH DISTRIBUTION:

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7
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MEASUREMENT FITTING

12-1 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

Average stature, average weight

Medium length and thickness
Prominent shoulder bone

Prominent chest cones

Head and neck thrust forward

Long, bony, slightly prominent shoulder blades
Average height bust

Medium
Small to medium bust

Front midriff slightly fleshy
Shoulder line~¥bony

Arm girth~~medium

 

 

 

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w cm” *

ltriur

Pattern Fault
FHOFT

Monk xv

HI—Imwapam:fi

M
2m

- Excess bust width

3H - Excess side width

RM - Excess side seam length

BACK“
SM — Inadequate shoulder length

6H ~ Inadequate width - shoulder to
waist

7M - Excess side seam length

30

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder seam lengthened - at neck
edge (l/B") and armhole edge
(1/u")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0”) to
waist dart point, reducing bust
Width (3/8")

Vertical wedge ~ armhole (3/8") to
waist (0")

Horizontal wedge above waist - side
seam (1") to CF (0")

Shoulder seam lengthened - at neck
edge (l/8") and armhole edge

(l/h")

Vertical slash spread evenly -

shoulder to waist (l/h"); shoulder
addition was eased

Horizontal wedge above waistsside
seam (1") to CF (0")

 

 

 

31

12-1 Comparison of Results

use:
Although both bodice fronts fitted well after initial alterations,
some minor fitting improvements were made in the muslin proof. The
measurement fitted garment gave the bustline a flat appearance because
width was lapped out directly over the bust point. The pin fitted
bodice was better in this respect because excess was removed only at
the side front. This latter correction did not change the size of the
waist dart; thus, in pin fitting, the original amount of bust ease was
retained. The armhole of the pin fitted bodice was tight, though.
This tightness was caused.by the large side front overlap (2P). Part
of this wide wedge should have been directed to the shoulder seam,
where it could have tapered off to nothing.
The tip of the underarm dart in the measurement fitted bodice was

puffy. This was remedied by lengthening the dart slightly.

ggggf

.A typical difficulty of measurement fitting was brought out in
the measurement fitted back. Measurements indicated that additional
ease was needed at the upper back, scye level and waist. To provide
additional width a straight vertical slash was made and spread through
the side back. The muslin proof fitting showed that the alteration
did not increase back ease where it was needed most. More back ease

was needed nearer CB, over a prominent shoulder bone, rather than at

the side back.

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32

In the pin fitted pattern the required width was directed over

the shoulder bone (hP), and above the waist dart (SP).

COMMENT:
The position of the alteration which increased back width and

decreased front width was different in each bodice. Pin fitting helped

in redistributing upper back ease exactly where it was needed. Measure-

ments indicated that more width was needed, but could not tell exactly

where the change should be made.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered muslin bodice revealed the same faults as those

altered in the pin fitted tissue. The shoulder seam was too long;

there was a deep front armhole bulge; there was also a bulge at the

upper back armhole; and the entire bodice was long waisted.

 

33

Pattern Fault

FRONT

 

lP - Diagonal wrinkle - neck to
armhole

2P - Bulge - armhole to bust point

(due to inadequate length and
width over bust point)

3P - Bodice too long

BACK

MP - Bulge - armhole to side back
(due to inadequate ease held
over prominent shoulder blade)

SP - Inadequate ease across back,
shoulder to waist

6P - Bodice too long

 

Pattern Alteration

Diagonal overlap - neckline (l/h")
to armhole (1/2")

Diagonal slash - overlapped at arm-
hole (1/2") and spread at bust
point (1/2"); even horizontal
Spread to CF (1/2")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (5/8”)
to CF (l/h")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
side back, transferring ease
into vertical spread 5P

Vertical slash to wedge MP adding ease
at shoulder (l/8") and above
waist dart (l/h")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (5/8")
to CB (1-1/2")

 

 

 

 

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LN

PIN FITTING

12-2 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 12

BUST 33
WAIST 23
'HIPS ——
HEIGHT S ’ l"

WEIGHT 112 lbs.

 

 

33

Pattern Fault
FRONT

lP - Diagonal wrinkle - neck to
armhole

2P - Bulge - armhole to bust point

(due to inadequate length and
width over bust point)

3P - Bodice too long

BACK
MP - Bulge - armhole to side back

(due to inadequate ease held
over prominent shoulder blade)

5P - Inadequate ease across back,
shoulder to waist

6P - Bodice too long

Pattern Alteration

Diagonal overlap - neckline (l/h")
to armhole (1/2")

Diagonal slash - overlapped at arm-
hole (1/2") and spread at bust
point (1/2"); even horizontal
spread to CF (1/2")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (5/8")
to CF (l/h")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
side back, transferring ease
into vertical spread 5P

Vertical slash to wedge hP adding ease
at shoulder (1/8") and above
waist dart (l/h")

Horizontal overlap — side seam (5/8”)
to CB (l-l/2")

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern Fault

FRONT

1M

2M

3M —

MM

SM ..

BACK

6M -

7M

8M

9M

10M —

 

 

Inadequate shoulder length

Excess side length and width
between armhole and waist dart
point

Excess side fulness at bust
level

waist too loose

Bodice too long

Neck too tight

Inadequate shoulder length
Back too narrow

Upper back too long

Lower back too long

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder seam lengthened at armhole

edge (5/8")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (1") to
waist dart point (l/h")

Underarm dart redrawn longer (l-l/2");
this reduced side length

Entire waist dart deepened (l/2")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (3/8")
to CF (l/h")

Neckline lengthened (l/8") at shoulder
edge

Shoulder seam lengthened at armhole

edge (5/8")

Diagonal slash - spread shoulder
(l/h") to waist dart point (l/8u)

Horizontal overlap - CB (1") to
armhole (7/8")

Horizontal overlap - CB (l/h")
to side seam (3/8")

 

 

 

 

 

6M

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

\ _
Pattern Fault_ Pattern Alteration
FRONT
lM - Inadequate shoulder length Shoulder seam lengthened at armhole
edge (5/8")
9") / é? PM Excess side length and width Dia 1 * l - mhole (1") to
' -~ - i Q - . gone over ap ar ‘
WW 00/0 between armhole and waist dart waist dart po int (l/h" )
4? point
, 3M ~ Excess side fulness at bust Underarm dart redrawn longer (l-l/2");
‘:==’ level this reduced side length
hM - waist too loose Entire waist dart deepened (l/2")
SM - Bodice too long Horizontal overlap - side seam (3/8")
to CF (l/h")
”’00,, 5“ \ r
‘ . [Ill]
" ””""””" " " ' ' ""”’ll/l/w/5 $14,, ’1 I ' , BACK
6M - Neck too tight Neckline lengthened (l/8") at shoulder
\ edge
4P1 7M — Inadequate shoulder length Shoulder seam lengthened at armhole
4P0 ‘ b n
. edge (5/8 )
MEASUREMENT FITTING 8M ~ Back too narrow Diagonal slash - spread shoulder

(l/h") to waist dart point (1/8")
12~2 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS .
9M - Upper back too long Horizontal overlap - CB (1") to

armhole (7/8")

FIGURE TYPE: Short stature, average weight
Horizontal overlap - CB (l/h")

lOM — Lower back too long
to side seam (3/8")

BONE STRUCTURE: Short length, medium thickness
Narrow chest but slightly prominent chest bones

POSTURE: Shoulders held back, but there is very noticeable
hollow in small of back
Chest held forward
Bustline very high

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium
Medium full bust
Flat at side of bust
Midriff front slightly fleshy
Shoulder line~~smooth
Arm--medium girth

 

U»:
1.

 

‘
|
i

35

12-2 Summary of Results

use:

Measurement fitting resulted in a bodice with a long-waisted back
and too-tight front, while pin fitting produced an easy fitting,
comfortable bodice.

.A hollow between the armhole and side bust caused the major fitting
problem for this figure. In the measurement fitted bodice an attempt
was made to eliminate fulness caused by this hollow in an armhole-to-
bust point wedge. .All the excess could not be eliminated, however,
because the greatest excess occurred half way between armhole and bust
point, producing an alteration dart that tapered at either end. Such
an alteration dart could not be overlapped and transferred out unless a
yoke or French dart line from armhole to waist were used. Introduction
of an alteration dart (larger at the armhole than at bust point) still
left some puffiness over the hollow area of the figure.

In the pin fitted front the alteration dart from armhole to bust
was also used, but was shorter than in the measured version. The wedge
tapered off and caused the pattern to Spread above the bust point, thus
introducing more length and width over the fullest part of the bust.

An additional neck~to~armhole wedge in the pin fitted front eliminated
puffiness between the shoulder line and chest level (the figure required
less length in this area than the pattern provided). This excess length

between neck and armhole showed up in the muslin proof made from the

36

measurement fitted pattern. (Measurements did not indicate that this

alteration was needed.)

BéEE}

The pin fitted back fit very smoothly. The measurement fitted
back did not fit as well, since its upper ease was not distributed.
evenly. .A horizontal bulge (from armhole to upper side back) pointed
up this fault. Correction of the fault (which could not be predicted
by measurements) would require redrawing of the entire back shoulder
area.

The back waist dart of the measurement fitted bodice was deepened
to accommodate a small waist. The CB of the pin fitted bodice was too

long, therefore the waist was redrawn higher.

COMMENT:

,Again it was shown that upper back ease could not be redistributed
correctly by measurements; although.upper back roundness was great
enough to cause a bulge, it was not obvious enough to be noted among
figure characteristics. Also, the amount of ease needed over the bust
point was sometimes difficult to determine by measurements. In this
case side seam landmarks may have been incorrectly placed. This error,
very easy to make, resulted in an increase of back ease, and a decrease
in front ease.

Although it was easy to shorten the CB of the measurement fitted

nmslin by redrawing the waist higher, CB grain would have been improved

      

  

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37

if bodice length had been reduced in the original pattern tissue, as

was done in the pin fitted bodice.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered bodice very definitely lost all of its intended
design effect. CF length was almost the only original front bodice
point that did not need altering. rA diagonal neck-to-armhole wrinkle
was present. A.blade of excess was held at the armhole at chest level,
and diagonal wrinkles appeared from underarm to bust point. The side
front was too long, and there was a deep fold directly above the waist

across the entire back. Pin fitting eliminated all these faults.

 

38

Pattern Fault
FRONT

lP - Deep fold - shoulder edge to
bust point

2P - Excess shoulder length

3P - Excess chest width

NP - Excess width at side, from bust
level to waist

SP - Underarm dart too puffy

6P - waist dart position unattractive
(made CF panel appear wide)

BACK

7? - Excess shoulder length

8P ~ Bulge - armhole to side back

 

Pattern Alteration

Diagonal wedge - shoulder edge (1")
to bust point (0")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(5/8") by wedge 1P

Armhole curved.inward (3/8")

'Wedge — armhole (0") to waist (l/h"),
touching underarm dart tip

‘Wedge through underarm dart to RP,
decreasing dart depth (l/h")

waist dart position shifted (1/2")
closer to CF

Shoulder seam shortened at armhole

edge (5/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
scye line (0")

worst;w‘e ,

 

 

 

 

 

39

7?

 

 

PIN FITTING

12-3 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 12
BUST 32 5/8
WAIST 2t 5/8
HIPS --

HEIGHT 5’7 1/2"

WEIGHT 120 lbs.

 

 

 

38

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P — Deep fold - shoulder edge to
bust point

2P Excess shoulder length

3P Excess chest width

b? - Excess width at side, from bust
level to waist

Underarm dart too puffy

‘33

waist dart position unattractive

6P
(made CF panel appear wide)

BACK

TP - Excess shoulder length

8P - Bulge - armhole to side back

 

 

Pattern Alteration

Diagonal wedge - shoulder edge (1")
to bust point (0")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(5/8") by wedge lP

Armhole curved inward (3/8”)

”Wedge - armhole (0") to waist (l/h"),
touching underarm dart tip

‘Wedge through underarm dart to hP,
decreasing dart depth (l/h")

waist dart position shifted (l/2")
closer to CF

Shoulder seam shortened at armhole

edge (5/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
scye line (0")

" v1 '4‘" "5 ,

 

 

 

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39
Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration
FRONT
lM - Excess side width (including Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") to
too much width at the waist) waist (l/h")
2M - Bulge - armhole to bust point Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8”) to
bust point (0")
3M - Bodice too long Horizontal overlap - side seam (l/h")
to CF (1/2”)
BACK
um - Neck too tight Neck lengthened (1/8") at shoulder
edge
SM - Upper back too tight Vertical slash spread between shoulder
dart (l/S”) to waist dart (5/8")
6M - CB too short but side seam Horizontal slash - Spread evenly _
was too long (l/2”) CB to waist dart; tapered [
from waist dart and overlapped

(l/h") at side seam

 

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MEASUREMENT FITTING

12-3 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Tall, extremely slender

BONE STRUCTURE: Long, fine to medium thickness

POSTURE:

Prominent elbow joints
Very sloping narrow shoulders

Narrow chest

Head and shoulders thrust forward slightly
High bustline

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Slender

Small bust

Slightly fleshy at side of bust
Should line-~smooth

Arm girth-~slim

Slight fleshiness across upper back

Pattern Fault

’E

uONT

 

lM ~ Excess side width (including
too much width at the waist)
2M - Bulge - armhole to bust point

3M ~ Bodice too long

BACK

hM - Neck too tight
SM - Upper back too tight

6M - CB too short but side seam
was too long

 

Pattern Alterati2n_

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") to
waist (l/h")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
bust point (0")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (l/h")
to CF (1/2")

Neck lengthened (1/8") at shoulder
edge

Vertical slash spread between shoulder
dart (1/8") to waist dart (5/8")

Horizontal slash - spread evenly
(1/2") CB to waist dart; tapered
from waist dart and overlapped
(l/h") at side seam

 

 

 

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12-3 Comparison of Results

ear

Neither measurement fitting nor pin fitting perfectly solved the
problem of narrow shoulders and chest on this figure with forward-set
head and shoulders. Through.pin fitting, too much width was removed
in a deep shoulder-toebust wedge; through measurement fitting, not
enough width was removed in the shoulder-tOdwaist wedge.

This figure did not need an underarm dart to hold fulness at the
side, since the side front of the figure was extremely flat. As a
result, the underarm dart of the measurement fitted bodice held puffi-
ness beyond its tip. Some of this puff was eliminated by lengthening

the dart in the muslin proof.

K

The pin fitted bodice looked and felt comfortable. Too much
width added to the lower back of the measurement fitted bodice made it
too large. Although there was also extra ease in this part of the pin
fitted back, there was not enough ease to make the back of the pattern
appear too large. The small amount of extra fulness helped this slender

figure appear slightly fuller.

COMMENT:
Two apparently contradictory aspects of fitting were considered
in altering the bodices for this slender figure. One, that the garment

should not appear too large (too much ease would cause this); the other--

that the garment should create the illusion of a fuller figure (more
than the normal amount of ease could accomplish this). It was quite
difficult to fulfill both these requirements through measurement fitting,
since there was no way of knowing exactly how the rounded body contours
would distribute ease throughout the bodice. During the pin fitting

the fulness of the tissue could be observed, and an extra ease allowance

could be made readily if it were necessary.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIM:
The unaltered muslin front was too wide from shoulder to waist
(this width was eliminated in vertical side front wedges in pin fitting).
This bodice was shortwaisted in front and back. Excess shoulder height,
seen in the unaltered muslin, did not appear in the pin fitted tissue
(the large shoulder edge correction obscured this fault in pin fitting).
The lower back fit well-~only a small diagonal wrinkle appeared
in the upper back just below the shoulder. Pin fitting improved these

fitting faults.

 

 

h2

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P...

2P -

3P -

5P -

BACK

7P -

lOP -

l2P -

Deep diagonal fold across chest
armhole to CF

Inadequate neck length and
height at shoulder edge

Armhole edge of shoulder too
loose

Shoulder too short

Underarm dart too short

Underarm dart pointed too high

Horizontal bulge - armhole to
side back

Excess length below CB neckbase
Inadequate ease below shoulder
at side back

Inadequate ease at lower edge

of shoulder blade

Inadequate ease held over ful-
ness below neckbase

Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point (due to in-
adequate ease at lower edge of
shoulder blade)

 

Pattern.Alteration

Diagonal overlap - armhole (l/2") to
CF (3/h")

Neck edge of shoulder raised (l/h")
Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (3/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder lengthened
(l/h")

Underarm dart redrawn longer (l-l/h")

Underarm dart redrawn pointing lower

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
upper side back (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (1/8") to upper
side back (0")

Vertical slash - spread shoulder (l/B")
to side back at tip of 7P

Vertical slash - Spread from upper
back at tip of 7? (0") to waist
dart point (l-l/B")

New neck dart formed - result of 7?
overlap

Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/16") to
waist dart point (0")

 

 

 

" 5P

 

 

 

 

 

IO?

(2.?

 

 

PIN FITTING

I2~h FIGURE SIZE

 

PATTERN SIZE 12

BUST 32 5/8
WAIST 2h
HIPS _-
HEIGHT 51h"

WEIGHT 110 lbs.

 

 

 

 

 

h2

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P...

2P -

3P -

6P -

BACK

8P -

9P -

lOP -

llP -

12? -

Deep diagonal fold across chest
armhole to CF

Inadequate neck length and
height at shoulder edge

Armhole edge of shoulder too
loose

Shoulder too short

Underarm dart too short

Underarm dart pointed too high

Horizontal bulge - armhole to
side back

Excess length below CB neckbase
Inadequate ease below shoulder
at side back

Inadequate ease at lower edge

of shoulder blade

Inadequate ease held over ful-
ness below neckbase

Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point (due to in-
adequate ease at lower edge of
shoulder blade)

 

Pattern.Alteration

Diagonal overlap - armhole (1/2") to
CF (3/h")

Neck edge of shoulder raised (l/h")
Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (3/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder lengthened

(1M)
Underarm dart redrawn longer (l-l/h")

Underarm dart redrawn pointing lower

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
upper side back (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (1/8") to upper
side back (0")

Vertical slash - spread shoulder (l/B”)
to side back at tip of 7?

Vertical slash - Spread from upper
back at tip of 7? (0") to waist
dart point (1-1/8")

New neck dart formed - result of 7?
overlap

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/lé”) to
waist dart point (0")

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Pattern Fault

 

IN — Inadequate shoulder length

2M - Excess width at side - chest
level to waist

3M - Excess length and width between
armhole and bust

hM ~ Excess side front length

(figure flat at side of bust)

SM - CF and side too long

6M - waist too wide

7M - Inadequate shoulder length

8M - Back too tight

9M - Bulge - armhole to waist dart
point (due to back tightness)

lOM - waistline too loose

llM - CB too short; side seam length

adequate

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder length increased in three
areas at neck edge (l/h") and
shoulder edge (l/h"); vertical
slash 2M increased length (l/h")

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/h"), but overlapped from
chest (0") to waist (3/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/2")
to waist dart point (0")

Horizontal wedge through underarm
dart to slash hM - reduced
underarm dart depth (l/8")

Horizontal wedgereven overlap CF to
waist dart (1") tapering off at
side seam (0")

Waist dart deepened (l/h"); waist
also reduced in slash MM

Shoulder length increased in three
areas; shoulder dart deepened
(l/ 3); vertical slash 8M added
(I/ ")3 armhole edge lengthened

(l/LL")

Vertical slash - Spread shoulder (l/h")
to waist

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
dart point (0")

waist dart deepened (1/8")

Horizontal slash - spread CB (5/8") to
side seam (0")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

12-h FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, extremely Slender

BONE STRUCTURE: Short to medium length, except lower arm and

POSTURE:

hands which are longer proportionately

Very prominent chest bones, narrow across chest

Very prominent shoulder bones

Sharply sleping shoulders because of well developed
muscle below neckbase

Erect

Head slightly forward
Shoulders Slightly forward
High bust

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Slender

Full bust for remainder of flesh distribution

Slightly fleshy at side of bust

Hollow between armhole and bust

Slim midriff

Arm girth-~not fleshy, but upper muscle is very well
developed

Pattern Fault

FRONT

lH ~ Inadequate shoulder length

2M ~ Excess width at side - chest
level to waist

3M — Excess length and width between
armhole and bust

hM - Excess side front length

(figure flat at side of bust)

SM - CF and side too long

6F - waist too wide

7M - Inadequate shoulder length

8M

Back too tight

9M ~ Bulge - armhole to waist dart
point (due to back tightness)

lOM - waistline too loose

llM - CB too short; side seam length
adequate

 

A3

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder length increased in three
areas at neck edge (l/h") and
shoulder edge (l/h”); vertical
slash 2M increased length (l/h")

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/h"), but overlapped from
chest (0") to waist (3/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/2")
to waist dart point (0")

Horizontal wedge through underarm
dart to slash hM - reduced
underarm dart depth (l/8")

Horizontal wedgereven overlap CF to
waist dart (1") tapering off at
side seam (0")

waist dart deepened (l/h"); waist
also reduced in slash MM

Shoulder length increased in three
areas; shoulder dart deepened
(l/ 3); vertical slash 8M added
(l/h"); armhole edge lengthened

(IL/h")

Vertical Slash - Spread shoulder (l/h")
to waist

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/ ") to
dart point (0")

waist dart deepened (l/ ")

Horizontal slash - spread CB (5/8") to
side seam (0") .

 

 

1.

MN

“4

12-h Comparison of Results

new

The looser pin fitted front was more comfortable and flattering
than the tighter measurement fitted front. The more-than-adequate
amount of ease in the pin fitted front helped this very slender figure
to appear fuller.

An armhole wedge in the measurement fitted front transferred ease
to the waist dart, thus increased the depth of the dart. Since the
entire measurement fitted front was generally tight, it was difficult
to see whether this alteration had improved the fit of the bustline.

Reducing the size of the front armhole in the pin fitted bodice
improved its fit. The armhole of the measurement fitted bodice, reduced

once by a wedge, was again reduced at the muslin proof fitting.

SEEK?

The back necklines of both muslin bodices were raised because
well-develOped neck and shoulder muscles added length in these areas.

The upper back of the measurement fitted bodice was widened;
however, this addition did not help to redistribute ease over a prominent
shoulder blade. The prominence of this bone caused an armhole bulge
which could be removed only by redrawing the entire upper back section.
This armhole bulge was wedged out of the pin fitted back and transferred
to the waist dart. This resulted in.puffiness at the tip of the dart
(caused by too much ease held at the scye line, compared to the amount

of ease held across the upper back),

145

vCOMMENTS:

Fittings for this figure brought out several points. A side front
hollow could best be fitted by using a design having a seam crossing
the hellow area. The excess could then be removed at the seam. An un-
flattering effect might be produced, however, if this area were fitted
too tightly, for then the fitting would emphasize, rather than disguise
the hollow.

The measurement fitted bodice was generally tighter than the pin
fitted bodice. This tightness of fit (especially unflattering for very
slender figures) might be considered an unavoidable drawback of measure-
ment fitting. It was impossible to learn from measurements the location
and amount of extra ease that could be added for the most flattering

effect.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The main alteration in the pin fitted bodice was a deep diagonal
overlap from armhole to CF. The extra length this overlap removed was
very noticeable in the unaltered muslin, giving the shoulders undesir-
able looseness. There was a deep fold across CF below the neckbase.

.A small armhole bulge was also present in the unaltered front.

The underarm dart did not absorb sufficient side fulness; therefore,
the side below the armhole was very loose. This was corrected in the
pin.fitting.

There was a diagonal bulge at the back armhole, as well as excess
length in the bodice back. The armhold bulge was corrected in the pin

fitted.back, but the bodice was only partially shortened by the CB wedge.

 

 

Pattern Fault

FRONT

IP -.Armhole edge of shoulder too
high for flattering line

2? - Excess shoulder length

3P - Excess width at chest level

MP - Bodice too long

5P - waist too wide

6P - Underarm dart pointed too high
7P - Underarm dart too short

BA§§_

8P — Armhole edge of Shoulder too
low for flattering line

9P - Excess shoulder length
lOP - Excess back width near armhole

llP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
Side back

lZP - Bodice too long

 

Pattern.Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (l/h")
Armhole edge of shoulder shortened (l/h")
Armhole curved in (l/h") at chest level

Even horizontal overlap (1") CF to Side
seam

'waist dart deepened (l/h")
Underarm dart redrawn pointing lower

Underarm dart redrawn longer (l-l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder raised (1/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened (1/8")
Armhole curved in (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
Side back redistributed ease
through two vertical Slashes - one
Spreading at shoulder (l/B"), the
other spread through the waist

dart (3/8")

Even horizontal overlap — CB to Side
seam (1")

IF’WVT‘WIFI

II?

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7////////fl

 

 

‘1

 

I

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

12-5 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 12
BUST 32 1/8
WAIST 25 5/8
HES —-

HEIGHT 57h"

WEIGHT 115 lbs.

5?

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern Fault

FRONT

IP -.Armhole edge of shoulder too
high for flattering line
2P - Excess Shoulder length

3? - Excess width at chest level
hP - Bodice too long

5P - waist too wide

6P - Underarm dart pointed too high
7P - Underarm dart too short

ggg§_

8P - Armhole edge of shoulder too
low for flattering line

9P - Excess shoulder length
10? - Excess back width near armhole

llP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
side back

12P — Bodice too long

 

Pattern.Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened (l/h")

Armhole curved in (l/h") at chest level

'Even horizontal overlap (1") CF to side
seam

waist dart deepened (l/h")
Underarm dart redrawn pointing lower

Underarm dart redrawn longer (1-1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder raised (1/8")

Armhole edge of Shoulder shortened (1/8”)
Armhole curved in (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
side back redistributed ease
through two vertical slashes - one
Spreading at shoulder (l/8"), the
other Spread through the waist
dart (3/8”)

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (1")

'W'gyw 15—1., 7

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width across bust point

too long

hF Neck too high at Shoulder seam

(
,_
I

Excess shoulder length

Tightness across back and
waist too narrow

7M‘- Upper back too Short

8M — Side seam too long

 

 

h?
Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration
FRONT
IN - Excess shoulder length Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(l/h")

wedge - armhole (0”) to bust point
(l/2") overlapping through waist
dart point

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1/2")

Neck raised (l/lé") (also decreased
shoulder length)

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/8"); shoulder dart deepened
(1/16")

Vertical slash - Spread shoulder (0")
to waist (3/8")

Horizontal slash - Spread CB (3/8")
to armhole (0")

Horizontal wedge - Side seam (l/2")
to waist dart (0")

 

5M 1M

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MEASUREMENT FITTING

12-5 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, very slender

BONE STRUCTURE: Short length, medium thickness
No prominent joints
Shoulder slepe-~medium

POSTURE: Erect
Small hollow at the waist back
Slightly forward head and SIOping shoulders
Slightly forward abdomen

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Slender to medium
Small to medium bust
Shoulder line-~very smooth
Arm girth-~medium

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

lM - Excess shoulder length

2N - Excess width across bust point

3N - Bodice too long

BACK

hM - Neck too high at shoulder seam

SM - Excess shoulder length

6M — Tightness across back and
waist too narrow

7M‘- Upper back too short

8M - Side seam too long

h?

Pattern Alteratiqg

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/u“)

‘wedgo - armhole (0”) to bust point
(l/2") overlapping through waist
dart point

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (l/2“)

Neck raised (l/lo”) (also decreased
shoulder length)

Armhole edge of Shoulder shortened
(l/8"); shoulder dart deepened
(1/16")

Vertical slash - spread shoulder (0")
to waist (3/8")

Horizontal slash - Spread CB (3/8")
to armhole (0")

Horizontal wedge - side seam (1/2")
to waist dart (0")

 

 

 

Pattern Fault

FRONT

IP -.Armhole edge of shoulder too
high for flattering line

2? - Excess shoulder length

3P - Excess width at chest level

MP - Bodice too long

5P - waist too wide

6P - Underarm dart pointed too high
7P - Underarm dart too short

BA§§_

8P — Armhole edge of Shoulder too
low for flattering line

9P - Excess shoulder length
lOP - Excess back width near armhole

llP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
Side back

lZP - Bodice too long

 

Pattern.Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (l/h")
Armhole edge of shoulder shortened (l/h")
Armhole curved in (l/h") at chest level

Even horizontal overlap (1") CF to Side
seam

'waist dart deepened (l/h")
Underarm dart redrawn pointing lower

Underarm dart redrawn longer (l-l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder raised (1/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened (1/8")
Armhole curved in (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
Side back redistributed ease
through two vertical Slashes - one
spreading at shoulder (l/8"), the
other spread through the waist

dart (3/8")

Even horizontal overlap — CB to Side
seam (1")

IF’WVT‘WFII

II?

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7////////fl

 

 

‘1

 

I

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

12-5 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 12
BUST 32 l/8
WAIST 25 5/8
HES —-

HEIGHT 57h"

WEIGHT 115 lbs.

5?

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern Fault

FRONT

IP -.Armhole edge of shoulder too
high for flattering line
2P - Excess Shoulder length

3P - Excess width at chest level
hP - Bodice too long

5P - waist too wide

6P - Underarm dart pointed too high
7P - Underarm dart too short

ggg§_

8P - Armhole edge of shoulder too
low for flattering line

9P - Excess shoulder length
10? - Excess back width near armhole

llP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
side back

12P — Bodice too long

 

Pattern.Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened (l/h")

Armhole curved in (l/h") at chest level

'Even horizontal overlap (1") CF to side
seam

waist dart deepened (l/h")
Underarm dart redrawn pointing lower

Underarm dart redrawn longer (1-1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder raised (1/8")

Armhole edge of Shoulder shortened (l/8")
Armhole curved in (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
side back redistributed ease
through two vertical slashes - one
Spreading at shoulder (1/8"), the
other Spread through the waist
dart (3/8”)

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (1")

'W'gyw 15—1., 7

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width across bust point

too long

hF Neck too high at Shoulder seam

(
,_
I

excess shoulder length

Tightness across back and
waist too narrow

7M‘- Upper back too Short

8M — Side seam too long

 

 

h?
Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration
FRONT
IN - Excess shoulder length Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(l/h")

wedge - armhole (0") to bust point
(1/2") overlapping through waist
dart point

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1/2")

Neck raised (l/lé") (also decreased
shoulder length)

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/8"); shoulder dart deepened
(1/16")

Vertical slash - Spread shoulder (0")
to waist (3/8")

Horizontal slash - Spread CB (3/8")
to armhole (0")

Horizontal wedge - Side seam (l/2")
to waist dart (0")

 

5M 1M

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MEASUREMENT FITTING

12-5 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, very slender

BONE STRUCTURE: Short length, medium thickness
No prominent joints
Shoulder slepe-~medium

POSTURE: Erect
Small hollow at the waist back
Slightly forward head and sl0ping shoulders
Slightly forward abdomen

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Slender to medium
Small to medium bust
Shoulder line-~very smooth
Arm girth-~medium

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

IN - Excess shoulder length

2N - Excess width across bust point

3N - Bodice too long

BACK

hN - Neck too high at shoulder seam

SM - Excess shoulder length

6M — Tightness across back and
waist too narrow

7N‘- Upper back too short

8M - Side seam too long

h?

Pattern Alteratiqg

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/u“)

‘wedgo - armhole (0") to bust point
(1/2") overlapping through waist
dart point

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (l/2")

Neck raised (l/lo") (also decreased
shoulder length)

Armhole edge of Shoulder shortened
(l/8"); shoulder dart deepened
(1/16")

Vertical slash - spread shoulder (0")
to waist (3/8")

Horizontal slash - Spread CB (3/8")
to armhole (0")

Horizontal wedge - side seam (1/2")
to waist dart (0")

 

h8

12-5 Comparison of Results

§§___5

This figure required more bust case than the pattern allowed;
measurements which called for reduction of bust ease were wrong.
Either bust measurements were incorrectly taken (wrong landmarks for
side seam) or the figure needed more than the standard bust ease provided
by measurement fitting.

The pin fitted front gave a satisfactory appearance, but it, too,

needed more bust ease than the pattern allowed.

B5255

Back alterations were handled differently in each.bodice. An un-
even amount of width distributed between the upper and lower back created
the major difficulty in the pin fitted back. Transference of ease from
an armhole wedge to the upper back resulted in well-distributed shoulder
ease. However, transferring the remainder of the armhole ease to the
lower back, forced too much width into the waist dart, creating a large
puff at the waist dart tip.

Upper back width was evenly distrubuted in the measurement fitted
back. In spite of its slightly excessive amount of ease the measure-
ment fitted back looked better than the pin fitted version.

The back armhole of the measurement fitted bodice was somewhat low
and long for this slender figure with small bone structure. It did not
fit as well as the armhole of the pin fitted bodice, which had been

shortened.by the large horizontal armhole wedge discussed above.

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COMMENTS:

This measurement fitting resulted in a generally comfortable,
easy fitting back. Since the measured front lacked ease, however, it
is possible that inaccurate placement of side seam landmarks resulted
in.measurements that were too small for the front and too large for
the back.

A concentration of ease at the back waist dart point (seen in
the pin fitted bodice back) is often the result of a common.pin fitting
fault. When puffing occurs above scye level,as at the armhole, it is
often due to inadequate width over body bulges (e.g.,shoulder blades).
If width is not increased and the large bulge is merely pinned out and
transferred below, the tightness that lifted the pattern, (thus causing
it to bulge) still remains, while an unattractively large amount of

ease is held directly above the waist dart.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered bodice was not wearable. Excess length did not
settle directly above the waistline. Instead, it was held above the
bustline by the tightness over the bust. The back armhole lines extend-
ed.beyond the normal armscye and the underarm area drooped. Pin fitting
eliminated bodice length and raised the armhole to remove underarm

folds.

 

 

/

50

Pattern Fault
FRONT

1P - Shoulder too high for round-
shouldered figure

2P - Horizontal fold across chest -
armhole to CF

3P - Excess width at side (to waist)

HP - Underarm dart too high

5P - Bodice too long

6P - waist dart too long for low

bust level
Iggflg
7P - Shoulder too low at neck edge
8P - Shoulder too high for round-
shouldered figure
9P - Excess length at upper CB
lOP - Horizontal wrinkle - armhole to

side back

llP - Diagonal wrinkle - armhole to
waist

12P - Bodice too long

 

Pattern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered
(l/u")

Horizontal overlap - armhole (5/8")
to CF (1")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") to
waist (1")

Underarm dart lowered (2")

Even horizontal overlap CF to side
Seam (1")

waist dart redrawn shorter (3/h")

Shoulder raised at neck edge (l/8”)

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (1/8”)

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/8") to upper
back (0"), resulting in a spread
increasing shoulder ease

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
side back resulting in a spread
increasing ease above waist dart

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (5/8")
to waist (0")

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (l")

7P

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PIN FITTING

lh~l FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE lh
BUST 31 5/8
WAIST 2o

HIPS 35 l/2
HEIGHT 5‘5"

WEIGHT 130 lbs.

  

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50
Pattern Fault
FRONT
1P - Shoulder too high for round-
shouldered figure
2P - Horizontal fold across chest -
armhole to CF
3P - Excess width at side (to waist)
HP - Underarm dart too high
5P - Bodice too long
6P - waist dart too long for low
bust level
BACK
7P - Shoulder too low at neck edge
8P - Shoulder too high for round-
shouldered figure
9P - Excess length at upper CB
lOP ~ Horizontal wrinkle - armhole to
Side back
llP - Diagonal wrinkle - armhole to
waist
l2P - Bodice too long

Pattern.Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered
(l/h")

Horizontal overlap - armhole (5/8")
to CF (1")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") to
waist (1")

Underarm dart lowered (2")

Even horizontal overlap CF to side
seam (1")

waist dart redrawn shorter (3/h")

Shoulder raised at neck edge (l/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (1/8")

Horizontal wedge - CB (1/8") to upper
back (0"), resulting in a Spread
increasing shoulder ease

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
Side back resulting in a spread
increasing ease above waist dart

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (5/8")
to waist (0")

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (1")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

1N - Inadequate shoulder length

2N — Excess chest width

3N — Excess length at side above bust
level

hM - F cess width over bust point

5H — Side of bodice too long (at

6H -

BACK
8M -

9M ~

10M -

11M -

12M —

bust level)

Underarm dart too deep for
figure with flat side

Bodice too long below bust
level

Inadequate shoulder length

Inadequate shoulder length;
neck slightly loose

Upper back (below shoulders)
too narrow; mideback, above
and below scye too wide (no
excess waist length)

Excess length and width be—
tween lower armhole and waist
dart

Bodice too long

51

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lengthened at neck edge (l/h")
and at armhole edge (l/h")

Armhole curved in at chest level (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (5/8") to
CF (0")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") through
waist dart point (5/8")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (7/8")
to bust point (l/h")

Underarm dart redrawn narrower (1/2")

Horizontal overlap - CF (l-l/h") to
side seam (5/8"); CF panel
further shortened by drawing
waist higher (1/8")

Shoulder edge of lOM slash spread (lfli")

Neck edge of shoulder lengthened
(l/h"); also reduced size of neck
curve (1/16")

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/h"), overlapped at waist (5/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist dart point (0"); waist
dart narrowed to restore waist
length eliminated in 10M

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side

seam.(7/8")

 

 

 

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MEASUREMENT FITTING

lh~l FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, average weight

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length, medium to heavy thickness

Angular overall build
Prominent chest bones

POSTURE: Head definitely forward, neck forward
Forward abdomen
Slightly forward rounded shoulders
Fleshy shoulder blades
Bust low

wlM

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FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Small to medium for bone structure

Slightly fleshy at side of bust and back at bust level

Slightly fleshy midriff, front and back
Flesh across upper back of shoulder bones
Bony shoulder line

Arm girth-~medium

 

Pattern Fault

1M — Inadequate shoulder length

2M - Excess chest width

3M — Excess length at side above bust
level

hM - Excess width over bust point

SM - Side of bodice too long (at
bust level)

6M - Underarm dart too deep for
figure with flat side

7M - Bodice too long below bust
level

BACK

8M — Inadequate shoulder length

9M - Inadequate shoulder length;
neck slightly loose

lOM - Upper back (below shoulders)
too narrow; mideback, above
and below scye too wide (no
excess waist length)

llM - Excess length and width be-
tween lower armhole and waist
dart

12M - Bodice too long

51

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lengthened at neck edge (l/h")
and at armhole edge (l/h")

Armhole curved in at chest level (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (5/8") to
CF (0")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") through
waist dart point (5/8")

Horizontal overlap - side seam (7/8")
to bust point (1/ ")

Underarm dart redrawn narrower (l/Z")

Horizontal overlap - CF (l-l/h") to
side seam (5/8")3.CF panel
further shortened by drawing
waist higher (1/8")

Shoulder edge of 10M slash spread (lfli")

Neck edge of shoulder lengthened
(l/h"); also reduced size of neck
curve (l/lé")

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/h"), overlapped at waist (5/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist dart point (0"); waist
dart narrowed to restore waist
length eliminated in 10M

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (7/8")

 

52

lh-l Comparison of Results

w:

The pin fitted bodice fit more comfortably than the measurement
fitted bodice, though it did not look as trim as the latter. Its more
than adequate bust ease gave this slender figure a fuller appearance
(which could not be achieved through measurement fitting).

An error in bust level placement gave the pin fitted front a
very low underarm dart; it also resulted in a puff at the tip of the
shortened waist dart. The length of this dart had been reduced to
accommodate a low bust line.

The tighter appearance of the measurement fitted front was mainly
due to removal of excess width and length directly over the bust. The
bust level of the measurement fitted bodice was too high-dprobably
caused by a literal interpretation of shoulder-to-bust measurements.
Although in measuring, the entire front was allowed one inch of verti-
cal ease, some of this ease should have been allowed above, as well as
below the bust line.

The armhole: of both bodices were slightly tight, not allowing
enough ease for arm movement. Meet likely this tightness was caused

_'by the wedges which shortened the armholes too much.

BACK:
Neither the measurement nor pin fitted back was completely satis-

factory; The measurement fitted version was tight across the upper

53

back due to poor distribution of ease, while the lower back of the
pin fitted bodice was puffy above the waist dart. This puffiness
resulted from transference of a large horizontal wedge (lOP back) to
the waist dart (some of the ease should have been transferred to the
shoulder; see page <62). The extreme slenderness of this figure at
the side caused excess fabric in this area to bulge from the lower

armhole to the waist even though some side width had been removed.from

the pattern.

COMMENT:

After quickly surveying the alterations required in the original
size 1h, one might think that a smaller size pattern would have provided
a better fitting garment. Two points negate this idea, however. The
bust, waist and hip circumferences called for a size 1h; more important,
the bone structure (indicated by shoulder width) required the larger
pattern size (shoulder length and shoulder ease were increased in both
cases).

Most of the fitting difficulties in this pattern were caused.by
Stamping shoulders and a forward-set head. .L lack of balance resulted
1J1 the pattern (front to back, and CB to side back) since the upper
'back absorbed more fulness than the pattern allowed. The figure was
also less rounded in front than allowed for in the pattern. When a
Pfittern needs as many adjustments as this one, more than one fitting

5-3 Often necessary to give perfect fitting results.

5h

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered muslin fit unattractively, appearing too long and
wide at the sides of the bodice in front and back. Excess front
length (which was eliminated above the bust in the pin fitted pattern)
simply hung below the bust, pulling CF grain down. This dr00ping bodice
illustrated how some faults can be more difficult to analyze in fabric
than in the tissue, since the fabric can mold to parts of the figure,

obscuring the true cause of the fitting problem.

 

 

55

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P - Shoulder seam loose over mid-

shoulder hollow

2P

waist

3P Underarm dart too high

Underarm dart too deep

’56

BACK

5? - Shoulder seam loose over mid-

shoulder hollow

6P - Excess length - upper CB

7P - Excess length - lower CB

8P - Excess width at side, including

excess waist length

 

Excess width at side ~ chest to

Pattern.Alteration

Shoulder curved lower (l/h") at mid-
shoulder

Vertical overlap - shoulder (0"), over
bust point, to waist (1/2")

Underarm dart redrawn lower (1")

Underarm dart redrawn narrower (l/2")

Horizontal wedge from side to 2?
through dart further reduced
dart depth (1/8") '

Mid-shoulder lowered (l/h"); no change
at neck or armhole edges

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h") to side
back, resulting in increased
shoulder ease

Horizontal wedge - CB (3/8") to waist
dart point (0"), resulting in
increased waist dart depth

Vertical wedge - armhole (0") to
waist (l/2")

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

lh—Z FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 1h
BUST 32 l/8
WAIST 23 1/2
HIPS -—

HEIGHT 515 1/2"

WEIGHT ll} lbs.

 

 

 

 

55

Pattern Fault

FRONT

 

1P

2P

3P

BACK

SP

8P

Shoulder seam loose over mid-
shoulder hollow

Excess width at side - chest to
waist

Underarm dart too high

Underarm dart too deep

Shoulder seam loose over mid-
shoulder hollow

Excess length - upper CB

Excess length - lower CB

Excess width at side, including
excess waist length

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder curved lower (l/h") at mid-
shoulder

Vertical overlap - shoulder (0"), over

bust point, to waist (1/2")
Underarm dart redrawn lower (1")

Underarm dart redrawn narrower (1/2")

Horizontal wedge from side to 2P
through dart further reduced
dart depth (l/8") '

Mid-shoulder lowered (l/h"); no change
at neck or armhole edges

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h") to side
back, resulting in increased
shoulder ease

Horizontal wedge - CB (3/8") to waist
dart point (0"), resulting in
increased waist dart depth

Vertical wedge - armhole (0") to
waist (l/2")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern Fault

 

Inadequate neck height at
shoulder edge

Inadequate shoulder length

56

Pattern Alteration

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/8") also increased shoulder
length (l/8")

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge
(l/8") and neck edge (l/8")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") to

BE Excess width from chest level
to waist waist (3/8")
hM Underarm dart too keep for Horizontal wedge - side seam (l/8")

figure with flat area between

to 2M

 

bust and side seam

SF - Inadequate neck height at Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
shoulder edge (l/8"); also increased shoulder
length (1/8")

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge

6M — Inadequate shoulder length
(1/8") and neck edge (1/8")

_- —- I
.,,:-(.‘I .(v, ”a .

7M - Excess side width - scye to Vertical wedge - armhole (0") to
waist waist (3/8")

 

8M - CB too short, but side seam Horizontal slash ~ Spread evenly CB

“a -q-’ W;;;;:~; EIFFTT length adequate to waist dart (5/8"), tapering off
at Side seam (0")
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MEASUREMENT FITTING

lh-2 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, very slender

BONE STRUCTURE: Long and of medium thickness
Prominent shoulder bones
Prominent chest bones
Shoulders square

POSTURE: Erect

Bustline at average height
Bony shoulder blades and bone near back Shoulder tip

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Very slender
Small to medium bust
Flat at sides of bust
Very Slim midriff
Shoulder line—«bony
Arms-~very slim

 

 

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

IN - Inadequate neck height at
shoulder edge

2N - Inadequate shoulder length

3H ~ Excess width from chest level
to waist

hH ~ Underarm dart too keep for
figure with flat area between
bust and side seam

BACK

SE - Inadequate neck height at
shoulder edge

6M - Inadequate shoulder length

7M - Excess side width - scye to
waist

8N - CB too short, but side seam
length adequate

Pattern Alteration

 

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/8") also increased shoulder
length (1/8")

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge
(1/8”) and neck edge (1/8")

Vertical wedge - shoulder (0") to

waist (3/8")

Horizontal wedge - side seam (l/8")
to 2M

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/8"); also increased shoulder
length (1/8")

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge
(l/8") and neck edge (l/8")

Vertical wedge - armhole (0") to
waist (3/8")

Horizontal slash ~ spread evenly CB
to waist dart (5/8"), tapering off
at side seam (0")

 

 

57

lh-2 Comparison of Results

m=

The muslin fitting indicated that shoulder seam length, which had
been increased in measurement fitting, needed to be reduced again to
its original size. Although the muslin proofs of both the measurement
and pin fitted bodices required shoulder height adjustments, this cor-
rection occurred more frequently in the measurement fitted muslin.
Whenever an.upper bodice length adjustment was required, this alteration
could not be determined through measurement fitting, since there was
only one vertical measuring level above the bust. Thus, though the
adjustment might be at either the shoulder or chest level, one could
not rely on measurements to determine which area needed adjusting.

This figure had prominent shoulder bones which formed a hollow
at the midpoint of each shoulder. It was difficult to determine how
closely one should fit this area to obtain a smooth effect. If too
closely fitted, the hollow would become very obvious. This problem was
not satisfactorily solved.by either the measurement or pin fitting
methods. Only trying the muslin proof on the figure gave the complete
fitting effect of the shoulder area. This particular shoulder line
was'best fitted in fabric, where its effect could be observed and
changed.if necessary.

Vertical front wedges similar in shape, but differently located
in each bodice, reduced width in different areas. Although each front

had. some ease, neither had enough ease to achieve the most flattering

. —.—o—-uo—- . f' ' ‘

58

effect possible. (A very slender figure usually looks better when a
garment is not too closely fitted-~30 that the figure looks fuller

than it actually is.)

§é§§3

The pin fitted back fitted more loosely and comfortably than the
measurement fitted back. In the pin fitted version some CB ease had
been transferred to the shoulder line. (This shifted, but did not add,
more ease.) If upper back ease had been added, however, the horizontal
bulges that appeared at the measurement and pin fitted armholes might

have been eliminated.

COMMENT:

This extremely slender figure with long, prominent bones, presented
several problems. The first, dealing with correct size, was solved by
buying a pattern large enough to fit bone structure, rather than small
enough to fit the bust, waist, and hip circumference.

Shoulder length and slope are very difficult to plan by measure-
ment fitting, although both can usually be accurately adjusted by pin
fitting. The shoulder tip is an especially difficult landmark to locate
because in measuring, its relationship to the armhole line cannot be
seen. Although bone structure can'be used as a guide in locating this
point, it is difficult to know if the shoulder line will look well
when placed at the Exact landmark point, or if its placement will
require shifting to create the illusion of better posture (or different

flesh distribution) in this area.

59

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered bodice did not fit the figure perfectly, but could
have been worn comfortably. Pin fitting improved its appearance,
however--e3pecially at the shoulder line and underarm dart. Some
excess side front and back fulness were also eliminated, to give the

bodice a smooth appearance.

 

60

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P

2P

3P

5P
6P

7P -

S?

BACK

9P

lOP

H
t3

12?

13? -

1h? -

lSP -

Neck low at shoulder edge
Excess width at chest level
Inadequate length and width

over bust point

Bulge - armhole to bust point

Underarm dart high
Underarm dart too deep
Underarm dart pointing too high

Bodice too long

Neck too low and wide

Horizontal bulge - armhole to
side back

Inadequate ease across upper
back
Inadequate ease across lower

back (near CB)

Inadequate ease at side back

waist too wide

Bodice too long

Pattern.Alteration

Neck drawn higher (l/h") at shoulder
Armhole curved in (1/2") at chest level

Slash - armhole (0") bust point (3/h"),
resulting in increased waist dart
depth

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole
(1/2"), spread at dart point

(1/8")
Underarm dart drawn lower (3/8")
Underarm dart narrowed (3/8")
Underarm dart pointed lower

waist edge drawn higher - or (l/h")
to side seam (l/2")

Neck drawn higher (l/h"); this reduced
the length of the neck curve

Horizontal wedge — armhole (5/8") to
side back, resulting in llP and
12? Spread

Vertical slash from 10? (0") to
shoulder (1/8")

Vertical slash spreading from lOP (0")
to waist (1"), resulting in new
waist dart, replacing original one

Vertical slash - spread shoulder (0")
to waist (1"); a horizontal
spread between 12P and l3P above
the waist dart evenly divided
width of increases; a new waist
dart absorbed added waist width
and helped divide lower back ease
more evenly

Side seam drawn in (l/2"); new waist
dart also reduced waist width

waist drawn higher - CB (3/h") to
side seam (l/h")

 

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PIN FITTING

lh-3 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE lh
BUST 36 5/8
WAIST 25 1/8
HIPS -~

HEIGHT 523 1/2"

WEIGHT 128 lbs.

 

 

8P

 

 

 

 

60

Pattern Fault
mall
1P - Neck lOW’at shoulder edge
2P - Excess width at chest level
3? - Inadequate length and width

over bust point

hP - Bulge - armhole to bust point

~5P - Underarm dart high
6? - Underarm dart too deep
7? - Underarm dart pointing too high

8? - Bodice too long

BACK

9? - Neck too low and wide

lOP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
side back

llP - Inadequate ease across upper
back
12P - Inadequate ease across lower

back (near CB)

13P - Inadequate ease at side back

IMP - Waist too wide

15? - Bodice too long

 

Pattern.Alteration

Neck drawn higher (l/h") at shoulder
Armhole curved in (1/2") at chest level

Slash - armhole (0") bust point (3/h"),
resulting in increased waist dart

depth

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole
(1/2"), spread at dart point

(1/8")
Underarm dart drawn lower (3/8")
Underarm dart narrowed (3/8")
Underarm dart pointed lower

waist edge drawn higher - CF (l/h")
to side seam (l/2")

Neck drawn higher (1/ ")5 this reduced
the length of the neck curve

Horizontal wedge - armhole (5/8") to
side back, resulting in llP and
12P spread

Vertical slash from lOP (0") to
shoulder (1/8")

Vertical slash spreading from lOP (0")
to waist (1"), resulting in new
waist dart, replacing original one

Vertical slash ~ spread shoulder (0")
to waist (1"); a horizontal
spread between lZP and l3P above
the waist dart evenly divided
width of increases; a new waist
dart absorbed added waist width
and helped divide lower back ease
more evenly

Side seam drawn in (l/2"); new waist
dart also reduced waist width

waist drawn higher - CB (3/h") to
side seam (l/h")

a

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absulder line smooth

Arms-~medium Full

 

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

m

1H.- 3x ess shoulder length

2M - Excess length at side near
lower armhole but inadequate
length and width over bust
point

- Underarm dart too high

hM ~ Bodice too long at CF

5M - Bodice length needs further

reduction

6M ~ waist too wide

7M — Excess shoulder length

8M — Neck too wide
9M - Inadequate width at scye

lOM - Excess length near lower arm—
hole

llM - Bodice too long

 

 

P ttern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(l/h”)

Diagonal slash ~ overlapped at armhole
(l/h"), spread at bust point
(3/8"), resulting in deeper
waist dart

Underarm dart drawn lower (7/8")

Horizontal wedge — side seam (0") to

)

CF (1/2")

waist edge drawn higher - side seam
(1/2") to CF <3/8")

Waist dart deepened (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/h")

Diagonal slash - overlapping at neck
(1/8"), spread above waist dart
(3/8"), resulting in deeper waist
dart

Horizontal wedge - CB (0") to armhole
(3/16")

waist edge drawn higher - side seam
to CB (1/2")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ll/Illlfllllllll |

 

514

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

lh~3 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Short stature, slightly full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length and medium to heavy thickness
Prominent back shoulder bones
Prominent slightly bony shoulder blades
Shoulder slopes sharply-—well developed muscle on
shoulder below neck base

POSTURE: Erect
Low bust line
Shoulders slightly forward
Flat hollow along backbone

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium to full generally
Very full bust (2M) and narrow waist
Fleshy along side of bust and at bust level in back
Midriff medium fleshy
Shoulder line smooth
Arms--medium full

 

I

Pattern Fault
ER. ONT

1H - Excess shoulder length

2M — Excess length at side near

lower armhole but inadequate

length and width over bust
point

3M - Underarm dart too high

hM ~ Bodice too long at CF

SM - Bodice length needs further
reduction

6M - waist too wide

ngg

7M ~ Excess shoulder length

8M - Neck too wide
9M - Inadequate width at scye

lOM - Excess length near lower arm-
hole

llM - Bodice too long

 

61

Pattern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(l/h")

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole
(l/h"), spread at bust point
(3/8"), resulting in deeper
waist dart

Underarm dart drawn lower (7/8")

Horizontal wedge - side seam (0") to
or (1/2")

waist edge drawn higher - side seam
(1/2") to CF (3/8")

Waist dart deepened (l/I")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/h")

Diagonal slash - overlapping at neck
(l/8"), spread above waist dart
{3/8"), resulting in deeper waist

dart

Horizontal wedge - CB (0") to armhole
(3/16")

‘Waist edge drawn higher - side seam
to CB (1/2")

 

62

lh-3 Comparison of Results

Lion:

The pin fitted front fit more easily and smoothly than the
measurement fitted front. The wedge which reduced armhole ease and
another, which spread to increase the length and width held over the
bust curve, were both successful. There was still a.bulge at the arm-
hole in the measurement fitted muslin. Although bust ease had been
increased in the measurement fitted front, the ease allowance was
still inadequate. This ease was concentrated at the bust point,
instead of providing more ease above and.below the bust. The underarm
dart position was more accurate in the pin fitted muslin, since it

pointed directly to the fullest part of the bust.

géggf

The back neckline, too low in both versions, was simply drawn
higher. The measurement fitted back fit better generally than the pin
fitted back, since it had a moderate amount of lower ease, compared to
the excess held in the lower back of the pin fitted bodice. Good
redistribution of shoulder ease in the pin fitted back (not found in the

measured.version) was obscured by the puffiness of the lower back.

COMMENT:
When a large armhole bulge in the pin fitted back was pinned out

and transferred to the waist dart, a large puff formed at the tip of

the waist dart. The effect would.have been improved if the entire upper

63

back had been spread to distribute fulness more evenly (see 12-5
page h9).

Measurement fitting cannot predict the correct size and placement
of an underarm dart. In contrast, the pin fitting tissue, which can
be seen on the figure, can point up the exact location of the bust level
and corresponding underarm dart level.

One difficulty in pin fitting was clearly demonstrated in this
bodice. The great strain caused by inadequate bust fulness distorted
the fit of the entire bodice. It created back bulges that would not
have appeared if the bodice had not been strongly pulled towards the
front. These bulges were pinned out and resulted in too much lower
back fulness. If the tissue had been removed from the figure, increased
in bust, width, then replaced on the figure, some of these back bulges

might have disappeared when there was no longer strain across the back.

THE UNALTERED BODICE:

This bodice could not be worn without some alteration to increase
bust width, since the lines were completely distorted by wrinkles
radiating from the very full bust. There was an armhole bulge, diagonal
wrinkles above the bust leading toward the neckline, and a diagonal
wrinkle leading to the CF waist. The back was pulled forward, too,
with wrinkles radiating from the underarm area. The bodice was also
long waisted in front and back.

The appearance of the bodice was greatly improved by the pin

fitting. Bust width was increased in front (and back) so that the

W

front Opening would not gap. General fulness was increased so the

bodice could also be worn comfortably.

6h

‘d-‘Q-f ’~

_——-—.—— -“W. ..r.—--v A 4

 

 

 

65

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P...

2P -

3P -

SP -

6? ~

BACK

8P —

lOP -

llP -

Looseness at armhole edge of
shoulder

Excess shoulder length
Neck too tight

Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart

Inadequate length and width
beIOW‘bust

Bodice too long at side seam

Looseness at armhole edge of
shoulder

Excess shoulder length

Excess width across back
Diagonal bulge - armhole to scye
level above waist dart (due to
inadequate ease above dart)

Bodice too long at side seam

 

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder drawn lower

(l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(l/u")

Neck redrawn slightly deeper - shorter
(0") to CF (l/u")

Curved diagonal slash - overlapped at
armhole (1/2"), spread at waist
dart (l/h")

Diagonal curved slash - armhole (0”)
to dart (l/h")

Side seam drawn higher (3/8") at
waist

Armhole edge of shoulder drawn lower

(1M)

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(1M)
Armhole curved in (1/2")
Diagonal wedge - overlapped at

armhole (3/8") but spread at
dart point (3/8")

Side seam drawn higher (3/8") at
waist

ll 3"— “T ' ”TNT.

 

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

lh-h FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 1h
BUST 3h 3/h
WAIST 26 l/h
HIPS ~-

HEIGHT 53h"

WEIGHT 12h lbs.

 

 

 

 

 

65

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P - Looseness at armhole edge of

shoulder

2P - Excess shoulder length

3P

SP

6P

BACK

7P

8P

9P

10?

11P

1

Neck too tight

Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart

Inadequate length and width
below‘bust

Bodice too long at side seam

Looseness at armhole edge of
shoulder

Excess shoulder length

Excess width across back
Diagonal bulge - armhole to scye
level above waist dart (due to
inadequate ease above dart)

Bodice too long at side seam

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder drawn lower

(l/b")

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened

(l/u")

Neck redrawn slightly deeper - shorter
(0") to CF (l/h")

Curved diagonal slash - overlapped at
armhole (l/2"), spread at waist
dart (l/h")

Diagonal curved slash - armhole (0")
to dart (l/h")

Side seam drawn higher (3/8") at
waist

Armhole edge of shoulder drawn lower

(l/h”)

Armhole edge of shoulder shortened
(l/h”)

Armhole curved in (l/Q")

Diagonal wedge - overlapped at
armhole (B/S”) but spread at

dart point (3/8”)

Side seam drawn higher (3/8") at
waist

“21 'r "wimfjf‘é _ .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“ u r ‘ ah: thicln‘
K [1?» L ’1’. L/ K) , _
r
a\ *Iut ”n vhb
I» “we. h<ad ”n” hflci
C‘ ti IJTJ‘ Fl 1 :131 t” III-
N' J I] |_ 1' ‘ U la t4
5; ghtly 3U “Idc of bust and at huh}
hack
M1driff a Ight y fleshy in back
fanou oer lily ~~smooth th.EsTooin
«I 1 A‘ (J J. . g
.H

arm gizah~~medium

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

‘L..J

«.
,..3

7M ..

BACK

Armhole edge of shoulder too
high

Inadequate neck length

cess shoulder length

g1

Excess chest width

Excess length and width at
side above bust level

Excess length at side above
bust

CF too long

Inadequate neck length

Excess shoulder length

Excess width across upper
back

66

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder drawn lower

0/8")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge

(1/8 ")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Armhole curved in {3/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h")
to waist dart (0")

Underarm dart lengthened (3/ ")

Horizontal wedge - overlapping
CF (l/h") to side seam (0")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge
(1/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(3/8")

Armhole curved in (3/8") at upper
back level

 

 

 

 

 

£5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

lh—h FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, average weight

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length and thickness
No prominent joints or bones

POSTURE: Erect
Average bust height
Slightly forward head and neck

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium to full
Medium to full bust
Slightly fleshy at side of bust and at bust level in
back
Midriff slightly fleshy in back
Shoulder line~-smooth and sloping
Arm girth-~medium

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

 

! t": ..
-. J.

10M —

Armhole edge of shoulder too
high

Inadequate neck length

Excess shoulder length

Excess chest width

Excess length and width at
side above bust level

Excess length at side above
bust

CF too long

Inadequate neck length

Excess shoulder length

Excess width across upper
back

66

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder drawn lower

0/8")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge
(1/8 ")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(3/8")
Armhole curved in (3/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h")
t0 waist dart (0")

Underarm dart lengthened (B/M")

Horizontal wedge - overlapping
or (l/h") to side seam (0")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge
(1/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(3/8")

Armhole curved in (3/8") at upper
back level

 

 

 

67

lh-h Comparison of Results

E
:2?

 

This pattern required comparatively few corrections. Both fronts
were altered similarly, with like results. Both'bodices fitted smoothly,
but would have been more comfortable with additional bustline ease.
Looseness near the front of each armhole indicated that there was a
hollow between the bust and armhole. This could not be fitted without

a seam or yoke in that area (See 12-2 page 35 ).

BEQE}

Except for a slight bulge at the lower armhole, the measurement
fitted back looked smoother than the pin fitted back. In the pin fitted
'back, transference of an armhole bulge into lower back ease had created
a puff at the tip of the waist dart. Also, a blade of excess side ease
appeared below the armhole. Apparently the bulge at the armhole should

have been transferred more evenly to upper and lower back ease.

COMMENT:

The fact that the pattern needed only minor alterations indicated
that this figure was very close to the average for which the size 1h
pattern was intended.

Comparison of the back bodices brought out a problem that recurred
through many backs in all sizes. Results of this pin fitting indicated
that transference of an armhole wedge into waist dart ease (lOP)

created a large unflattering puff at the waist dart tip.

68

In spite of this, a diagonal bulge in the measurement fitted
muslin proof seemed to call for a wedge almost identical to the one
already proved unsuccessful in the pin fitting.

There were several possible answers to this problem: The armhole
wedge might have been too big. Had some of the excess armhole length
been retained (making the wedge smaller), it would have been easier to
transfer the smaller wedge into lower back ease successfully.

Perhaps the bulge was created by a lack of sufficient length in
the general scye area--not merely at the waist dart point. In this
case a horizontal slash above the scye from armhole to CB, spread apart
at its center (but not spread at GB or armhole) would provide the
additional length.

If the figure needed a large amount of lower back fulness this
ease might be better distributed by pleat darts or gathered blousing,

rather than through regular darts.

THE UNALTERED BODICE:

Almost every fault in the unaltered pattern.was either eliminated
or improved.upon through pin fitting. The neckline of this unaltered
bodice was high and tight. The shoulders were too long, and the entire
shoulder section ”floated" free from the figure before the sleeves were
pinned in. The addition of sleeves pulled the shoulders down, causing
slight wrinkles below the shoulders in front and back. There were
wrinkles at the underarm, probably caused by tightness across the bust-
line. The back armhole was loose and the sides of the bodice seemed

too long.

69

Although the faults listed above may seem quite extensive, most
of the adjustments needed were small, and the original bodice was
wearable. This figure, as a whole, probably came closer to the average

figure than any of the others fitted in the study.

 

 

70

Pattern Faulfi
IEQNI
lP - Excess shoulder height
2P - Excess shoulder length
3P - Excess chest width
MP - Neckbase too high

5? - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point

6P - Underarm dart pointing too high

7P - Puffiness at underarm dart
point

8P - Bodice too long

BACK

9P - Excess shoulder length

lOP - Excess upper CB length

llP - Excess upper back width

12P — Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point

l3P ~ Bodice too long

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lowered (I/u")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (5/8”)
Armhole curved in (5/8")

Neckbase lowered (1/2")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist dart point (l/B")

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (l—l/h”) and
deepened (l/B")

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (3/5”)

Horizontal wedge ~ CB (3/8") to upper
back (0”) resulting in new neck
dart (l/ ")

Armhole curved in (5/8”)

Diagonal wedge ~ armhole (l/Z”) to
waist dart point (O”)
Horizontal overlap ~ CB (l“) to Side

seam (l/Q”)

to?

 

 

 

 

:— sl '1 v: -‘ w awe-van..-

 

 

W» W

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

lh-S FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 1h
BUST 3h 1/2
WAIST 26 3/b
HIPS -~

HEIGHT 5’2"

WEIGHT 120 lbs.

 

up

9P

'IIlIll/llll'll'

 

 

 

70

Pattern Pauly

IEQE:
1P - Excess shoulder height
2? - Excess shoulder length
3P - Excess chest width
hP - Neckbase too high
5P - Diagonal bulge — armhole to
waist dart point
6P - Underarm dart pointing too high
7P - Puffiness at underarm dart
point
8P - Bodice too long
BEER.
9P — Excess shoulder length
lOP - Excess upper CB length
llP - Excess upper back width
12P — Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point
13P - Bodice too long

 

 

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lowered (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (5/8")
Armhole curved in (5/8")

Neckbase lowered (1/2")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist dart point (l/B")

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (l-l/h”) and
deepened (1/8")

Even horizontal overlap ~ CF to side
seam (1/2”)

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (S/S”)

Horizontal wedge ~ CB (3/3") to upper
back O"\ resulting in new neck
/ C)

dart (l/h")

Armhole curved in (5/8")

.1.

Diagonal wedge ~ armhole (l/Z”) to
waist dart point (O”)

Horizontal overlap - CB (l”) to side
seam (1/2")

I “WE'VE-n

‘I 73’ “5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MI J _L I'PLE-j ‘l ’ I‘d
go‘ , 31;.NJ 1 LC: 9
7' 1 It 3" L Lj- -
§ 1 mp 1y
u‘va3«~shculdfirs, Chest. upper have
lect
lxeragw height
Si :aitly ralrillead euui shouluhirr
H’“IBUTI»XI ‘lLL
mall L 'Lum bust
Flashy at '49 of bust
Mi riff Fr"b and tack fleshy
SI snt f‘ls.1ness ever hack of shoulder
Shou‘cfin‘ l1ne-~smootl1

 

m \ .."m- " ELSE. _ EAL it“

Pattern Fault

 

lM - Excess Shoulder height (and
excess neck length)

2M - Excess shoulder length

3M - Excess length and width between
lower armhole and waist dart

hM - Excess bust width

SE - Underarm dart too deep

6M - Underarm dart too short
(excess length at dart point)

7M — Bodice too long

8M ~ Waist too narrow

BACK

9M-Inadequate shoulder height
at neck edge

lOM — Excess shoulder length
llM ~ Excess upper back length

12M - waist too narrow

71

Patter§_Alteration

Shoulder drawn lower - neck edge
(1/8") to armhole edge (l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (3/8") to
bust point (l/8")

Bust point overlap 3M
Underarm dart depth reduced (l/h")

Underarm dart lengthened (1")

Horizontal overlap - CF (7/8") to
side seam (l/h")

waist dart de th reduced at waist
edge (1 h")

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/h") sloping off at shoulder
edge (1/16")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8n)

Horizontal wedge - CB (5/8") to
armhole (0")

waist dart depth reduced at waist
edge (l/h")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VII/Illlllllllllun:um” .............

 

HM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

lh—S FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Short stature, full average figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Short length, heavy thickness

POSTURE:

Very prominent shoulder blades
Shoulders slope sharply
Narrow upper areas—~shoulders, chest, upper back

Erect
Average bust height
Slightly forward head and shoulders

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Full

Small to medium bust

Fleshy at side of bust

Midriff front and back fleshy

Slight fleshiness over back of shoulder bones
Shoulder line-~smooth

Arm girth-~full

 

 

Pattern Fault
FRONT

iv

- F‘cess shoulder height (and
excess neck length)

2M — Excess shoulder length

3M — Excess length and width between
lower armhole and waist dart

hM - Excess bust width

SM - Underarm dart too deep

6M - Underarm dart too short
(excess length at dart point)

7M — Bodice too long

8M - waist too narrow

BACK

9M-Inadequate shoulder height
at neck edge

lOM - Excess shoulder length
llM - Excess upper back length

12M - waist too narrow

71

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder drawn lower — neck edge
(1/8") to armhole edge (l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (3/8") to
bust point (1/8")

Bust point overlap 3M
Underarm dart depth reduced (l/h")

Underarm dart lengthened (1")

Horizontal overlap - CF (7/8") to
side seam (l/h")

waist dart de th reduced at waist
edge (l/i")

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/h") sloping off at shoulder
edge (l/l6")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Horizontal.wedge - CB (5/8") to
armhole (0")

waist dart depth reduced at waist
edge (l/h")

 

 

 

 

70

Pattern Faulfi
THEE;
lP - Excess shoulder height
2P - Excess shoulder length
3P - Excess chest width
MP - Neckbase too high

5P - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point

6P - Underarm dart pointing too high

7P - Puffiness at underarm dart
point

8P - Bodice too long

BACK

9P - Excess shoulder length

lOP - Excess upper CB length

llP - Excess upper back width

12P — Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point

l3P ~ Bodice too long

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lowered (l/u")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (5/8”)
Armhole curved in (5/8")

Neckbase lowered (1/2")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist dart point (l/B")

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (l—l/h”) and
deepened (l/B")

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (3/5”)

Horizontal wedge ~ CB (3/8") to upper
back (0”) resulting in new neck
dart (l/ ")

Armhole curved in (5/8”)

Diagonal wedge ~ armhole (l/Z”) to
waist dart point (O”)
Horizontal overlap ~ CB (l“) to side

seam (l/Q”)

to?

 

 

 

 

:— sl '1 v: -‘ w ’VW“"‘%~

 

 

W» W

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

lh-S FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 1h
BUST 3h 1/2
WAIST 26 3/b
HIPS -~

HEIGHT 5’2"

WEIGHT l20 lbs.

 

up

9P

'IIlIll/llll'll'

 

 

 

70

Pattern Fawrg

IEQEI
IP - Excess shoulder height
2P - Excess shoulder length
3P - Excess chest width
hP - Neckbase too high
5P - Diagonal bulge — armhole to
waist dart point
6P - Underarm dart pointing too high
7P - Puffiness at underarm dart
point
8? - Bodice too long
§§g§_
9P — Excess shoulder length
lOP - Excess upper CB length
llP - Excess upper back width
12P — Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point
13P - Bodice too long

 

 

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lowered (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (S/B")
Armhole curved in {5/8")

Neckbase lowered (1/2")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist dart point (l/B")

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (l-l/h”) and
deepened (1/8")

Even horizontal overlap ~ CF to side
seam (1/2”)

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced {5/5”)

Horizontal wedge ~ CB {3/3"} to upper
back O"\ resulting in new neck
/ C)

dart (l/h")

Armhole curved in {5/8"}

.1.

Diagonal wedge ~ armhole (1/2”) to
waist dart point (0”)

Horizontal overlap - CB (1”) to side
seam (1/2")

I “WE'VE-v.

1! JV “5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MI J _L i'PLE-j ‘l ’ I‘d
go‘ , 31;.NJ 1 LC: 9
7' 1 it 3" L Lj- -
§ 1 IVE-91y
w‘va3«~3houldfir3, Chest. upper have
rect
lxeragw height
Si :d ti; valfillead anti shouluhirr
H’“IBUT1»XI ‘ILL
mall t 'Lum hunt
Fleshy at '49 of bust
Mi riFT fr"b and tack fleshy
olfsnt f‘ls.1ness over back of shoulder
Shou‘cfin‘ l1ne-~Smoctl1

 

m \ .."m- " ELSE. _ EAL It“

Pattern Fault

 

lE - Excess shoulder height (and
excess neck length)

2M - Excess shoulder length

3M - Excess length and width between
lower armhole and waist dart

hM - Excess bust width

SM - Underarm dart too deep

6M - Underarm dart too short
(excess length at dart point)

7M — Bodice too long

8M ~ Waist too narrow

BACK

9M-Inadequate shoulder height
at neck edge

lOM — Excess shoulder length
11M ~ Excess upper back length

12M - waist too narrow

71

Pattern_Alteration

Shoulder drawn lower - neck edge
(1/8") to armhole edge (1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (3/8") to
bust point (1/8")

Bust point overlap 3M
Underarm dart depth reduced (l/h")

Underarm dart lengthened (1")

Horizontal overlap - CF (7/8") to
side seam (l/h")

waist dart de th reduced at waist
edge (1 h")

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/h") sloping off at shoulder
edge (1/16")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8n)

Horizontal wedge - CB (5/8") to
armhole (0")

waist dart depth reduced at waist
edge (l/h")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VII/Illlllllllllun:um” .............

 

HM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

lh—S FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Short stature, full average figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Short length, heavy thickness

POSTURE:

Very prominent shoulder blades
Shoulders Slope sharply
Narrow upper areas—~shoulders, chest, upper back

Erect
Average bust height
Slightly forward head and shoulders

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Full

Small to medium bust

Fleshy at side of bust

Midriff front and back fleshy

Slight fleshiness over back of shoulder bones
Shoulder line-~smooth

Arm girth-~full

 

 

Pattern Fault
FRONT

ix

- F‘cess Shoulder height (and
excess neck length)

2M — Excess shoulder length

3M — Excess length and width between
lower armhole and waist dart

hM - Excess bust width

SM - Underarm dart too deep

6M - Underarm dart too short
(excess length at dart point)

7M — Bodice too long

8E - waist too narrow

BACK

9M-lnadequate shoulder height
at neck edge

lOM - Excess shoulder length
llM - Excess upper back length

12M - waist too narrow

71

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder drawn lower — neck edge
(1/8") to armhole edge (1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (3/8") to
bust point (1/8")

Bust point overlap 3M
Underarm dart depth reduced (l/h")

Underarm dart lengthened (1")

Horizontal overlap - CF (7/8") to
side seam (l/h")

waist dart de th reduced at waist
edge (l/i")

Neck edge of shoulder drawn higher
(l/h") sloping off at shoulder
edge (1/16")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(3/8")

Horizontal.wedge - CB (5/8") to
armhole (0")

waist dart depth reduced at waist
edge (l/h")

 

 

72

lh-S Comparison of Results

renal:

Both fronts fitted loosely across the narrow chest and shoulders
of this figure, even after the side front and bust point areas had been
narrowed in the orignal tissue. A small amount of excess ease was

left, however, to make the front appear fuller and to provide better

front-to-back balance .

are

The pin fitted back fit much better than the measurement fitted
back, requiring only minor adjustments, such as raising the back neck-
line, and curving in the armhole. The neck dart which pointed directly
below the side of the back neckbase (in the pin fitted bodice) fitted
this contour well.

The neckline of the measurement fitted back was raised in the
muslin front, and a new dart was introduced (similar to the neck dart

in the original pin fitted back).

COMMENT :

Again the upper back contours were not smoothly fitted through
measurements (see 12-2 page 36), while pin fitting resulted in a trim,
flattering upper back fit.

The problem of front-to-back balance arose since the upper back

Of the figure was long and rounded, compared to the narrow, chest area.

§~\l

73

In order to maintain balance, a large amount of length and width were
removed from this bodice front in a diagonal armhole wedge (3M), in a

shoulder height reduction (1M), and in an armhole curve adjustment (2M).

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered bodice fit quite unattractively. The entire front
was too loose, and its neckline was too high and tight. The shoulders
were long and dr00ped down, especially with the sleeves pinned in. The
underarm dart hung low, too, as a result of the shortness of the figure
between shoulder and bust level (this caused grain to drop at the side
front). A bulge from armhole to the bust area pointed up excess arm-
hole length and front width.

Horizontal wrinkles formed below the back neckbase; there were
back underarm wrinkles, and a deep horizontal fold between mid-back
and waist. Most of the problems were either completely solved by pin

fitting, or at least improved so the garment could be worn without

showing obvious fitting faults.

 

 

7h

Pattern Fault
Page
' lP - Looseness at tip of shoulder
2P - Excess chest width
3P - Diagonal bulge - armhole to

bust point (due to inadequate
length and width at bust point)

DP - Tightness across bust (due to
inadequate length and width)

SP - Bodice too long

6? — Inadequate width across rib cage

BACK

7? - Looseness at tip of shoulder

8P - Excess upper back width near
armhole

9P — Excess neck width

10? — Inadequate ease above shoulder
blade

ll? - Diagonal fold - armhole to
waist dart; excess length and
width at side

12? - Bodice too long

 

Pattern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (3/8")

Armhole curved in (l/Z”)

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h") to side
of bust (0") resulting in hori-
zontal spread to bust point (l/h”)

Diagonal slash - spreading from armhole
(0") to bust point (3/8") and hori-
zontal slash spread evenly from
bust point to CF add length

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1/2")

waist dart depth decreased above the
waist (1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (lflIH)
Armhole curved in (1/2”)
Neck dart introduced to decrease neck

width (l/h") and direct ease
toward side back

Vertical slash - spreading more shoulder

ease (l/h”) ending at midsbaek’
with a diagonal overlap to ll?

Curved diagonal overlap ~ armhole \l”)
to waist dart (1/2")

Horizontal overlap - CB (1-3/8”) to
side seam (B/h")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

0”

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

      

16-1 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 16
BUST 36 1/2
WAIST 27 3/H
HIPS 38 l/h
HEIGHT 5' 5 3/h"

WEIGHT 133 lbs.

 

 

 

7h

Pattern Fault
FRONT
' 1P - Looseness at tip of Shoulder
2P - Excess chest width
3P - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
bust point (due to inadequate
length and width at bust point)

hP - Tightness across bust (due to
inadequate length and width)

SP - Bodice too long

6P - Inadequate width across rib cage

BACK

7P - Looseness at tip of shoulder

8P — Excess upper back width near
armhole

9P — Excess neck width

lQP - Inadequate ease above shoulder
blade

11? - Diagonal fold - armhole to
waist dart; excess length and
width at side

lZP — Bodice too long

 

Pattern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (3/8")

Armhole curved in (1/2")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h") to side
of bust (0") resulting in hori-
zontal spread to bust point (l/h")

Diagonal slash - spreading from armhole
(0") to bust point (3/8") and hori-
zontal slash spread evenky from
bust point to CF add length

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (l/2")

waist dart depth decreased above the
waist (1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (lfli”)
Armhole curved in (l/2”)
Neck dart introduced to decrease neck

width (l/h") and direct ease
toward side back

Vertical slash - spreading more shoulder

ease (l/h”) ending at mideback,
with a diagonal overlap to llP

Curved diagonal overlap ~ armhole (1")

to waist dart (1/2")

Horizontal overlap - CB (1-3/8”) to
side seam (B/h”)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern Fault

 

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BACK
m J: in
SR -

Inadequate length and width at
bust point

Underarm dart too high

Bodice too long

Excess width near CB - shoulder
to waist

Excess width at side — armhole
to waist

Bodice too long above scye
level

Bodice too long below scye
level

75

Pattern Alteration

Diagonal slash ~ Spreading at
bust point (B/h") (resulting
in deepened waist dart)

Underarm dart transferred lower

(7/8")

Horizontal overlap - CF (l/h") to
side seam (1”)

Vertical overlap - neck (l/h") to
waist (3/h")

Vertical wedge - armhole (3/8")
to waist (0")

Horizontal wedge — CB (1") to
armhole (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (0”) to
side seam (1")

 

    
   

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MEASUREMENT FITTING

lo~l FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, full average figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length (small for flesh distribution)
medium thickness
Shoulders slope sharply

POSTURE: Very erect
Very flat back

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium full

Full bust

LOW'bust

Fleshy along side of bust in front and at sides at
bust level in back

Midriff front fleshy, slim neck, back fleshy below
bust level in back

Shoulder line smooth

Arm girth medium full

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

 

1H — Inadequate length and width at
bust point

2H - Underarm dart too high

3M - Bodice too long

BACK

hH - Excess width near CB — shoulder
to waist

SM - Excess width at side ~ armhole

to waist

6M - Bodice too long above scye
level

7M — Bodice too long below scye
level

75

Pattern Alteration

 

Diagonal slash - Spreading at
bust point (3/h") (resulting
in deepened waist dart)

Underarm dart transferred lower

(7/8")

Horizontal overlap - CF (l/h") to
side seam (1")

Vertical overlap - neck (l/h") to
waist (B/h")

Vertical wedge - armhole (3/8")
to waist (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (1") to
armhole (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (0") to
side seam (1")

 

76

16-1 Comparison of Results

The pin fitted bodice was more comfortable than the smoother-
looking (but tighter) measurement fitted bodice. Since the figure had
a rather slim neck, the front necklines in both bodices were loose.
The tightness over the bust point of the measured bodice was the
result of inadequate length and width. The pin fitted bodice had more
bust ease because three slashes from different angles increased the
size of this area. [An armhole-to-bust point slash increased width.

A horizontal bust-to-CF spread added length, and a diagonal wedge (3P)
transferred ease from armhole to the fullest part of the bust. The
underarm darts in'both mnslins were too short, leaving puffs of fabric

at each dart tip. These puffs were eliminated by lengthening the darts.

359$}

Although this figure had a flat back and very erect stance, some-
what prominent shoulder blades required a concentration of ease in the
'upper back. Since this was not discovered through measurements, the
measured bodice was uncomfortably tight across the mid4back. Small
bone structure (compared to circumference measurements) was pointed up
by the loose back (and front) armholes. Even.after wedges had eliminated
back arlhole length, the pin and measurement fitted armholes were quite

loose.

77

COMMENT:

This figure, with an extremely full bustline and flat back, pre-
sented a definite problem of front-to-back balance (see fig. 17, page 153) .
Measurements indicated that a size 18 should be selected for this
figure. But knowledge of the figure's full front, flat back, and short
waist made a large size impractical. These figure characteristics
(indicating small bone structure) would have created even greater altera-

tion problems in a larger sized pattern.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

Almost every fitting problem observed in the unaltered bodice was
improved upon by the pin fitting. The unaltered size 16 was tight across
the bustline, too long waisted and had a bulge in the front armhole.

The back was long waisted (longer waisted than the front). There
was too much width across the shoulder blades and upper back of the

unaltered muslin.

 

78

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P

2P

3P

SP
6P

7?

BACK

8P

9P

lOP

ll?

12P

Neck too high (caused diagonal
wrinkle - neck to side of bust)

Excess shoulder height (caused
looseness at shoulder)

Inadequate armhole depth
Diagonal bulge ~ armhole to
bust point (due to inadequate
length and.width at bust point)
Underarm dart pointing high

Underarm dart too short

Bodice too short

Excess CB length below neckbase
and inadequate ease below
shoulder

Horizontal bulge - armhole to
shoulder blade

Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist

CB too long

Side seam.too short

 

Pattern Alteration

Neck drawn deeper at CF (1/2") and
shoulder edge (l/ld")

Shoulder drawn lower (1/2")

Armhole curved deeper (1/8")

Diagonal slash - overlapping at armhole
(3/8") and spreading at bust point

Underarm dart pOinted lower

Underarm dart lengthened (2-1/8”)

waist seam lowered - CF (7/8”) to side
seam (1/2")

Horizontal wedge — CB (1/8") to upper
back (0"), resulting in added
shoulder ease (1/8")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
side back (0") resulting in
added lower back ease

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (1/gn)
to waist (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h”) to Side
seam (0”)

waist drawn lower (1/2”)

 

SP

NP

 

 

 

 

 

771T] IIIlllIJI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING
16~2 FIGURE SIZE
PATTERN SIZE 16
BUST 37
WAIST 2e 3/h
HIPS —-

HEIGHT 5’6 1/2"

WEIGHT th lbs.

79

 

 

78

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P

2P

3P

5P
6P

7P

BACK

8P -

9P

lOP -

llP

lZP -

Neck too high (caused diagonal
wrinkle - neck to side of bust)

Excess shoulder height (caused
looseness at shoulder)

Inadequate armhole depth
Diagonal bulge - armhole to
bust point (due to inadequate
length and width at bust point)
Underarm dart pointing high

Underarm dart too short

Bodice too short

Excess CB length below neckbase
and inadequate ease below
shoulder

Horizontal bulge — armhole to
shoulder blade
Diagonal bulge - armhole to

waist

CB too long

Side seam too short

 

Pattern Alteration

Neck drawn deeper at CF (1/2") and
shoulder edge (1/16")

Shoulder drawn lower (1/2")

Armhole curved deeper (1/8")

Diagonal slash — overlapping at armhole
(3/8") and spreading at bust point

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (2-1/8”)

waist seam lowered - CF (7/8”) to Side
seam (1/2")

Horizontal wedge - CB (1/8”) to upper
back (0"), resulting in added
shoulder ease (1/8")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
side back (0") resulting in
added lower back ease

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h”)
to waist (0")

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h”) to side
seam (0")

waist drawn lower 1/2”)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

my my 1' "IT WW-vr akin - '——-"““—‘

—- , , “am —5 _ V __ ,__.

 

79

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

\\*
5 ¢~K\ Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration
h g‘ .
ERONT
k 1 ‘ lM - Excess length and width between Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/Z") to
‘ arnmole and waist dart point waist dart point (0")
‘.-
3 2M — Bodice too short Even horizontal slash ~ spread CF
to side seam (1/2”)
3M ~ waist too wide Waist dart deepened (1/8")
FACE
QM - Inadequate width at midéback Vertical slash - spread shoulder dart
point (0") to waist dart point (3/8"§
reducing shoulder dart depth (1/8")
‘ _ i f 3 SH ~ Bodice too short at side and Horizontal slash - Spread CB (0")
t g f5 g 2 side seam. to side seam (1/2")
I; 3 l
. j, ' .: »» .. >513 If: 1 5‘
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l k .2: r z
1 I 1.
‘ 1' IL. - *u-amfi .“ — 3’]; 1 '
~ \l »» "‘ \“t” ’-Hinmml; 2
11.11" ' ‘ ' L
1‘ H} ”l, I “All LJ 1 I! N
V r ‘. 1 m] ,‘T‘, H " ‘
1 1, t 7:} ’-n'.<;‘
I (A ' $ ‘ {_J ("1” J J T:
a I I T . V 1 I
‘7‘" fl 3 a. aid; of bu t
.1 ~ )h 11d} 11’?
5x? 1 .i'-«\_:‘ii"1m H I 'L

571'

 

 

 

 

79

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration
FRONT
lM - Excess length and width between Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/2") to
armhole and waist dart point waist dart point (0")
2M - Bodice too short Even horizontal slash - spread CF
to side seam (l/2")
/
”I’ll! .1 . - . 1 ~ .
'% 3M - waist too wide Waist dart deepened (l/S")
9,,
m"... "ASK
RM - Inadequate width at midéback Vertical slash - spread shoulder dart
point (0") to waist dart point (3/8"9
reducing shoulder dart depth (1/8")
SM - Bodice too short at side and Horizontal slash - spread CB (0")
side seen: to side seam (1/2")
1M
2”)

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

16-2 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, very full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length and medium to heavy thickness
Prominent small bone on shoulder, near edge
Shoulders slope average

POSTURE: Erect
Average height bust
Flat back
Shoulder blades flat

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Full
Full bust
Fleshy along side of bust
Fleshy front midriff
Arm girth--medium full

 

 

 

80

16-2 Comparison of Results

use:
Both bodice fronts looked correctly fitted, but the pin fitted

muslin, which had a greater bustline allowance, was more comfortable.

Measurements did not indicate that additional fulness was needed. They

merely indicated that there was excess side length.

gggg;

The measurement fitted back fitted better than the pin fitted
version because its ease was not concentrated above the waist dart.
Base in the measurement fitted version extended through the shoulder-dart,
giving the entire back evenly distributed fulness. The side wedge in
the pin fitted bodice gave it a trim appearance, but restricted lower
back and arm movement. Again the measurement fitted back lacked smooth
distribution of shoulder ease, since measurements could not fit the
pattern to the upper back contours.

The puff in the pin fitted back was caused by transference of an
armhole wedge (9P). Although a horizontal armhole bulge often seems
deep, it is usually not advisable to lap out more than a quarter inch

of the armhole at once (see lh-h, Page 67).

C CLIENT:

In both the back and front of this pattern comparisons between
measurement and pin fitting alterations pointed out that proper ease
distribution could make a garment at least look attractive, if not

comfortable.

81

The measurement fitted front, even with inadequate bust ease,
looked well (did not have wrinkles or bulges) because the small amount
of ease available was well distributed. Since comfort, however, is the
most important consideration in fitting, this measurement fitting could
not be considered successful, for the tightness of the front would

restrict body movement.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered bodice could not be worn without some adjustments,
since it gapped from neck to below the bust (with the largest gap across
the bustline). It was short waisted in front, although CB length was
correct. The shoulders were too long, and their dropping caused a slight
diagonal wrinkle near the armhole.

Pin fitting improved the bodice so that the front fit very well,

and the back was comfortable, if not perfectly smooth-fitting.

 

 

82

Pattern Fault
ran
1? - Excess shoulder length
Inadequate CF length above bust

level and horizontal wrinkle -
armhole to side front

¥%

3? Diagonal bulge - armhole to bust
point (due to inadequate bust

ease)

MP - Underarm dart too short
SP
gggg
6P

Underarm dart too high

Neck too high

7P - Excess shoulder length
8P - Horizontal bulge - armhole to

side (due to inadequate ease over
shoulder blades)

9P - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart

lOP - Bodice too long at CB

 

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (l/S")

Horizontal slash - Spread at CF (l/8")
and overlapped at armhole (1/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/2") to
bust point (0")

Underarm dart lengthened (l-V/S")

Underarm dart lowered (3/8")

Neck drawn lower (l/S")
Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (l/S")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (1/8") to
upper back (0"), resulting in
vertical slash spread at shoulder
(l/S") and lower back (l/h”)

Curved diagonal slash - overlapped at
armhole (1/8"), spread above
waist dart point (1/8")

Horizontal wedge - CB (3/8") to Side
seam (0”)

”r,- rv w

‘0?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

lé~3 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 16
BUST 3o l/h
WAIST 27 3/t
HIPS --

HEIGHT 5'6"

WEIGHT lh2 lbs.

 

 

 

82

Pattern Fault
FRONT

- Excess shoulder length

1%?

- Inadequate CF length above bust
level and horizontal wrinkle -
armhole to side front

1‘6

3? Diagonal bulge - armhole to bust
point (due to inadequate bust

ease)

Underarm dart too short

MP
SP

BACK

Underarm dart too high

6P - Neck too high
7P - Excess shoulder length
8? - Horizontal bulge - armhole to

side (due to inadequate ease over
shoulder blades)

9P - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart

lOP - Bodice too long at CB

 

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (l/S")
Horizontal slash - Spread at CF (l/8")
and overlapped at armhole (1/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/2") to
bust point (0")
Underarm dart lengthened (1-5/8")

Underarm dart lowered (3/8")

Neck drawn lower (l/8")
Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (1/8")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/8") to
upper back (0"), resulting in
vertical Slash Spread at shoulder
(1/8") and lower back (l/h")

Curved diagonal Slash - overlapped at
armhole (1/8"), spread above
waist dart point (l/S")

Horizontal wedge - CB (3/8”) to side
seam (0”)

 

 

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83

 

 

 

Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration
Pp: ONT
lM - Inadequate shoulder length Armhole edge of shoulder lengthened

(1/8")
2M - Neck too short Neck lengthened at shoulder edge (l/8")

1? a Excess width at side — chest Vertical overlap - armhole (l/2") to
level to waist waist (5/8")

hN - waist too wide Vertical overlap (5/8") - part of 3M

SM'- Bodice too long , - Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1/2")

6N - Inadequate shoulder length Armhole/edge of shoulder lengthened
(1 8")

7M — Neck too short Neck lengthened at shoulder edge
(1/8")

8M - Inadequate back width Vertical slash — spread from shoulder
dart point (1/8") to waist dart

point (3/8")

 

 

, 4“ 9M — Bodice too long Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
, .1 -.. ..‘ .1, ' 3‘
._ ..-...aa‘l: '* * E “":,a(..a_l,,;.....‘--;l seam (1/2")
I I A lOM - waist too wide Side seam drawn in (1/8")
I , 1.1.] ‘ -
I! 1? aV'
1:5 :7: 7 “
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Lioryx ;. ' ,' pl“?flflIthii :fliéiliatdr' hfzide;s, I‘Lesfiiy
'1‘,
1
is a g ' I"; " -' I gm V
‘ rack
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ifii Dlfl'”'IHFIION: Ededilnn to IHLII flémfliliistdfiturii m
2.7n :tduic dirt:
”W1 husc
Fl 9;- 5311)," at 5‘ 1c? of bust and back I g, f,
Fleshy midr‘ff in front and back
lilightly‘f'.£dnx}m:}0t shouldiir:'g, :pg~p the?

Shoulder L750 smooth
Arm girth medium full

 

 

 

 

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MEASUREMENT FITTING

16~3 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, very full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length, heavy
Shoulder slope medium
Narrow shoulders for remainder of flesh distribution
Bony slightly prominent shoulder blades, fleshy
across top

POSTURE: Erect
Average bust height
Flat center back
Shoulders slightly forward

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium to full flesh distribution for heavy
bone structure
Full bust
Fleshy at side of bust and back at bust level
Fleshy midriff in front and back
Slightly fleshy below shoulders at upper back
Shoulder line smooth
Arm girth medium full

Pattern Fault

 

FIICEIIT

lM - Inadequate shoulder length
2M ~ Neck too short

HM - Excess width at side - chest
level to waist

RN - waist too wide

SH - Bodice too long

BACK

6N - Inadequate shoulder length

7M ~ Neck too short

8M - Inadequate back width

9M ~ Bodice too long

lOM - waist too wide

 

83

Pattern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder lengthened
(1/8")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge (l/8")

Vertical overlap - armhole (l/Z") to
waist (5/8")

Vertical overlap (5/8") - part of 3M

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder lengthened
(1/8")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge
(1/8">

Vertical slash — spread from Shoulder
dart point (l/8") to waist dart
point (3/8")

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (l/2")

Side seam drawn in (1/8")

 

8h

16-3 Comparison of Results

The pin fitted front fit slightly better than the measured
version, mainly because it had more side ease, and the position and
size of the underarm dart were correct. The underarm dart alteration,
which could not be indicated through measurements, might seem unim-
portant. However, changing the position and size of this dart raised
the side front grain, and thus avoided a "drooping" wrinkled appearance
obvious at the sides of the measurement fitted front. Shoulder and

armhole lines were redrawn in both measured and pin fitted fronts.

EEEES

The pin fitted back, too, fitted more smoothly than the measured
back. Redistributing ease, instead of increasing it in the mideack
section, helped to mold the upper back of the pattern over this part
of the figure. The puff at the waist dart tip could be removed easily

by increasing waist dart length.

COMMENT:

Reduction of shoulder height and armhole curve in both bodices
brought out several points. The correct location of these two areas
could not be determined through measurements (see lh-2 page 58).
.Any pin fitting alteration near the shoulder line could pull the
pattern tissue down, making it difficult to locate the true shoulder

line. ‘Also, it is sometimes difficult to know, even after pin

85

fitting, how the fabric will hang from the shoulders until after the
garment is tried on because of the draping qualities of different
fabrics. Shoulder adjustments are comparatively easy to make at the
first bodice fitting.

Drawing in the armhole curve was another frequent adjustment
made at the muslin fitting. This correction had to be made in some
degree on almost every muslin because the armhole line could not be

perfected until the sleeves were pinned into each garment.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered pattern needed comparatively few major corrections.
Although it was wearable in its original form, the fit of the front
eSpecially was not flattering on this full, but youthful figure. The
shoulders were too long, the bustline was too tight; there was excess
side front length, held in diagonal bulges above and below the bustline.
These fitting faults gave the figure a "drooping" appearance. Although
the back was slightly long waisted, there was sufficient width dis-
tributed evenly throughout the area. Pin fitting greatly improved the

fitting quality of the bodice.

 

 

86

Pattern Fault
FRONT
1P - Excess shoulder length

Excess shoulder height (causing
looseness below shoulder)

2P

3P - Excess width across chest

LIP

Bulge - armhole to bust point

SP - Underarm dart pointing high
6P - Underarm dart too short

7P - Bodice too long

gggg

8P - Excess shoulder length

9P - Neck too short
lOP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to

upper back

llP - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point

12P - Bodice too long

 

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (3/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (3/8")

Armhole curved in (3/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (5/8") to
bust point (0"), increasing waist
dart depth

Underarm dart pointed lower
Underarm dart lengthened (l~l/2")

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (3/8”)
Neck lengthened at shoulder edge (l/lé”)

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
upper back (0"), resulting in
vertical slashes spreading ease
at shoulder (l/8”) and lower back

(l/u")

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8”)
to waist dart point (0"), increas—
ing waist dart depth

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (l“)

9?

,1?

 

[OP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1?

SP

 

 

I I 4

PIN FITTING

lé-b FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 16

BUST 37 3/8

WAIST 28 5/8

HIPS

...—c

HEIGHT 5‘7"

WEIGHT 160 lbs.

 

' P
IIIIIIIll/IIIII/ .

 

 

 

 

86
Pattern Fault
FRONT
IP - Excess shoulder length
2P - Excess shoulder height (causing
looseness below shoulder)
3P - Excess width across chest
UP - Bulge - armhole to bust point
SP - Underarm dart pointing high
6? - Underarm dart too short
7P - Bodice too long
BACK
8P - Excess shoulder length
9P - Nedk too short
lOP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
upper back
llP - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point
l2P ~ Bodice too long

 

Pattern Correction

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (3/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder lowered (3/8")

Armhole curved in (3/8")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (5/8") to
bust point (0"), increasing waist
dart depth

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (l-l/2")

Even horizontal overlap - CF to side
seam (1")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (3/8")

Neck lengthened at shoulder edge (l/l6")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
upper back (0"), resulting in
vertical slashes spreading ease
at shoulder (l/8”) and lower back

(l/LL")

Curved diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8”)
to waist dart point (0"), increas—
ing waist dart depth

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (1”)

=#
('3‘:
*4.

 

 

 

 

(:2?

 

 

 

§ 1 1 £9 ’
mama?

/

[_l_ll,l.J

 

 

i ' 'VWTY'“ .353"

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

87

 

 

*WW 7 ‘_ 7f: /\ Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration

 

. 6- ~ : .7
fl, \ ' r \g recur

1 , ’ _ 1' -----—------~

1‘ ‘.‘ ~52 1.; 1‘: I“ . , ‘ \

A i V, IN - Excess shoulder length Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(”4: ,‘i 5 1 . ”a

1 J ’; ”M - Excess width across chest Armhole curved in (l/h") at chest level

I, I if
_ >‘ MML‘L *‘ ‘_ Q,M - Excess length and width between Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/h") to
(ET—_—F—““*f——-~——%7 ~ ,c' ‘”t, armhole and bust bust point

"ll ~ .4 .!I‘:‘ ‘2' ' ‘1 v 1
I ‘1» Bodice too long Even horizontal overlap - CF to

SM - Excess Shoulder length Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(1/8")

6M - Inadequate mid-back width Vertical slash - Spread from shoulder
dart point to waist dart point

g z
”,7: (l/h")

' -.¢’1L.;J.’a._}.l§.2fé;’;;z.'_;.(3

A 71»:

  
 

Bodice too long Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (B/LL")

,.m~ ... ”_ ~.'
. ( 8N Waist too wide Waist dart deepened (1/8") [

MI . '7 in J' uil
a 1 3‘1” 1w .r’Wle‘r’
Id Il‘i’l- I“ L _ L") \I N g Fizlxth L11 L \ J
and
,'.,_) Iu ~

.0. 3.1; l ’31

raunv 1», -Lw

.lvVL*~w- ...dm
fildffi?lfi€ tn;;;,}.ffi
{1 _ g I - ‘.‘: -.' .1
straw, gut, 1 :s

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I‘m-(id bk-jp JDI Int-,2. 1 .JII QIIC‘UIUUI‘S

C‘) '.. ("XI tar r 1 1

.. L J

1'1; in

'1‘: 4 h 5111]” CLO" l‘ J'»"‘ TI" l 1 " R "r Y" "
, (y E. a» 1 .1 L twain) Ll Li. )L. 4.11 DOC (1.} \,’lc.;‘ _'
‘r‘n ' '

:1 shy w rifi 1a Iront and back (more In viva.
“hw1vnn1 ‘w\ ‘~-J'
13.;cttleh 1 'd'-~~fisuu'01,n
firm E’J l/ L

 

 

 

(M
5M

I
't
/ 0,0,9
'0
(9 M "o. 3 M

 

, 7 7w:
////////////////////z Y/I//////////.4///////////.‘

 

 

8M

MEASUREMENT FITTING

16-h FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

 

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, extremely full

BONE STRUCTURE: Long, heavy (except narrow shoulders)

IJM

5Z02Z%%%Zfl7

Prominent joints—~shoulder bone, shoulder blades

chest bones—-flesh covered
Shoulders sloping low

POSTURE: Erect—~leans back slightly
Average bust height
Straight, flat back
Head set forward slightly on shoulders

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Generally full
Full bust

Fleshy along side of bust and in back at bust level

Fleshy midriff in front and back (more in back)
Shoulder line—~smooth
Arm girth-~full

 

 

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

1M - Excess shoulder length
2M - Excess width across chest

3M - Excess length and width between
armhole and bust

hM - Bodice too long

SM - Excess shoulder length

6M - Inadequate midAback width

7M - Bodice too long

8M — Waist too wide

87

Pattern Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(1/8")
Armhole curved in (l/h") at chest level

Diagonal wedge ~ armhole (l/h") to
bust point

Even horizontal overlap - CF to
side seam (3/ ")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(1/8")

Vertical slash - spread from Shoulder
dart point to waist dart point

(l/h")

Even horizontal overlap - CB to side
seam (3/A")

waist dart deepened (1/8")

 

88

16-h Comparison of Results

and:
Each bodice front required additional case in the armhole, bust,
and waist areas. The area between the bust point and armhole should
have been Spread instead of overlapped (hP) to increase, rather than
decrease bust width. These differences might indicate that a larger
pattern was called for. Reducing shoulder length, however, indicated
that a larger pattern would not be correct for this figure's compara-

tively small bone structure.

RACE:

The pin fitted back fit more comfortably than the measurement
fitted back, because in pin fitting, upper back ease had been re-
directed from the armhole to shoulder blades (though not increased).
The measurement fitting increased back ease, but caused tightness
across the midback, since this ease was not directed to the fullest
part of the upper back.

The waist dart in the measured bodice was shaped at the muslin
fitting to allow more lower back fulness, without increasing the waist
size. This basic pattern, with fitted waist darts, was especially
unattractive on this figure. A very fleshy area directly above the
waist indentation made smooth fitting difficult. A bloused back would

have concealed this figure fault.

89

COMMENT:

This figure was particularly difficult to fit, not because of
unusual figure characteristics, but because of her shifting stance
and constantly changing posture. Miscalculation of bust ease in the
pin fitted bodice was probably caused by the pattern tissue repeatedly

shifting away from CF during the fitting.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The bustline of the unaltered pattern was too tight. Although
this area required even more ease than pin fitting provided, pin fitting
improved the general appearance (if not comfort) of the front. The
bodice was shortened and back ease was redistributed, removing back
underarm wrinkles. The shoulder line, which settled towards the back
armhole, was shifted. This raised the back shoulder line, while lower-

ing the front shoulder at the armhole edge.

 

90

Pattern Fault

EMT.
1P - Neck too high at CF
2P - Inadequate shoulder height
3P - Excess shoulder length
hP - Diagonal bulge - upper armhole
to bust point
SP - Underarm dart pointing too high
6P - Underarm dart too short
7? - Bodice too long at CF
§§§§_
8P - Inadequate shoulder height
9P - Excess shoulder length
lOP — Excess CB length below neck-

base

llP - Inadequate side width below

armhole

 

Pattern Alteration

Neck lowered at CF (l/h")

Shoulder raised - neck edge (l/lé") to
armhole edge (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (1/8”)

Diagonal wedge ~ upper armhole (l/h")
to bust point (0")

Underarm dart pointed lower
Underarm dart lengthened (l—3/h")

Horizontal wedge - CF (l/h") to side
seam (0")

Armhole edge of shoulder raised (1/8”)

Shoulder dart deepened (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h") to upper
back (0"), resulting in a slash

adding shoulder ease (l/h")

Width at side seam increased - armhole
(1/2") to waist (0")

 

 

 

 

 

2,?
3?
o
‘t
R
t
X‘P
\
\
\
6P
7?

 

 

PIN FITTING

16-5 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 16
BUST 36 3/8
WAIST 27 l/h
HES ~-

HEIGHT 5'6.l/2"

WEIGHT th lbs.

-'.""'Il

 

1P

 

 

90

Pattern Fault

new:
IP - Neck too high at CF
2P - Inadequate shoulder height
3P - Excess shoulder length
DP - Diagonal bulge - upper armhole
to bust point
SP - Underarm dart pointing too high
6? - Underarm dart too short
7? - Bodice too long at CF
§A§§_
8P - Inadequate shoulder height
9P - Excess shoulder length
lOP - Excess CB length below neck-
base
llP - Inadequate side width below

armhole

Pattern Alteration

Neck lowered at CF (l/h")

Shoulder raised - neck edge (l/lé") to
armhole edge (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (1/8”)

Diagonal wedge ~ upper armhole (l/h")
to bust point (0")

Underarm dart pointed lower
Underarm dart lengthened (l—3/h")

Horizontal wedge - CF (l/h") to side
seam (0")

Armhole edge of shoulder raised (l/B”)

Shoulder dart deepened (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h") to upper
back (0"), resulting in a Slash

adding shoulder ease (l/hn)

Width at side seam increased ~ armhole
(1/2") to waist (0")

 

 

...-n.“ --- w...~..,—u—

. .._f-u .

 

 

 

 

 

 

*d

attern Fault

1N m Excess Shoulder length

TM — Excess length and.width between
armhole and bust point

Pattern‘Alteration

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(l/h")

Even diagonal overlap - armhole to
bust point, through waist dart

 

 

(l/h")

Underarm dart lengthened (l/2") and

3M a Excess Side length (at underarm
c deepened (1/8")

‘art point)

hn_~ Bodice too long at CF Horizontal wedge - CF (l/h") to side
seam (0")

gm_~ waist too wide waist dart deepened (7/8”)

 

i
1 BACK
6M - Excess Shoulder length Armhole edge of shoulder reduced [
(1/8") and Shoulder dart
, ‘ H
U _ deepened (1/8 )
it: K
‘7ng 7M§~ waist too wide waist dart deepened (3/8")
ii
' din“ ‘
( u v‘vr.v 1
V7?
bf} t
.i ' CA. \ r lLIClriir L] Zfl}1:-/,1\ }
k 1 \l ‘U ‘1
W81
amount ? Y;~sh around midriff an sh shy
lilti ‘iéitflr all, :‘n all T ?\r«9l
thud der blad*s, Taush severed, nut not . 3
Etu»:wl r 1311: emrcni:

'“4‘1 , f , (7.
"I": :‘H mid-*rm” out; .1 M .'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lM

\

3

a ....... 2M

3M
I
I
r
1

\ rm \ ‘
5M \5M

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

16—5 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, very full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length, heavy

POSTURE:

Prominent chest bones but narrow chest

Erect

Average bust height

Straight back

Head and shoulders pitched slightly forward

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium to full

Medium bust

Medium amount of flesh around midriff and at sides
and back at bust level

Shoulder blades, flesh covered, but not too prominent

Shoulder line smooth

Arm girth-~medium full

 

Pattern Fault

 

IN w Excess shoulder length

2M — Excess length and width between
armhole and bust point

3E ~ Excess side length (at underarm
dart point)

hh ~ Bodice too long at CF

SM ~ waist too wide

0M - Excess shoulder length

YEL- waist too wide

\0
5..)

PatternfiAlteration

 

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced

(1M)

Even diagonal overlap ~ armhole to
bust point, through waist dart

(l/h")

Underarm dart lengthened (1/2") and
deepened (1/8")

Horizontal wedge - CF (l/h") to side
seam (0")

Waist dart deepened (7/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced
(1/8") and Shoulder dart

deepened (1/8")

waist dart deepened (3/8")

 

 

In" It‘

 

 

 

I41!

92

16-5 Comparison of Results

The pin fitted bodice front fit more loosely than the measure-
ment fitted front, particularly at the waist. wedge (AP) that started
high at the armhole of the pin fitted bodice was better than a corres-
ponding wedge (2M), located at the lower armhole curve of the measure-
ment fitted version. The higher position (b?) helped to absorb ease
over the hollow (above 2M) in the measurement fitted front. The underarm
dart which had been revised in pin fitting called for exactly the same

alteration in the measurement fitted muslin.

BACK:
Both backs needed very few corrections. Both fitted well. In
fact, the measurement fitted bodies, with no upper back alterations,

fit as smoothly and comfortably as the pin fitted version, with its

shortened CB and increased shoulder ease (lOP).

COMMENT:

Shortening the armhole even a small amount (through a wedge)
often causes the armhole to draw when the arm is raised. Sometimes
even though a wedge could give the side a trimmer effect, it is better
to allow the excess to remain than to remove it and thus restrict arm-
hole movement. The problem was not too outstanding in this bodice,

Twit pointed up the danger of reducing the armhole too much.

93

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

Pin fitting, which reduced chest width, but directed ease to the
bust point, greatly improved the fit of the bodice. The unaltered
bodice had diagonal wrinkles at the underarm and chest level; the
entire bodice was long waisted, especially at the side front.

Reducing the front shoulder slope in pin fitting improved grain,
which sagged at the side front of the unaltered bodice.

The back was long waisted, with loose folds settling across the
mid- and loweréback areas. Although the pattern seemed too wide across
the back, addition of a sleeve improved the back appearance, and made

it clear that this ease was needed for comfortable arm movement.

 

9h

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P - Excess shoulder height (causing
looseness below shoulder)

2P Excess shoulder length

3P Excess chest width

HP - Inadequate width from side of
bust to waist

SP - waist too narrow
6P - Inadequate ease over bust point
7P — Excess side bodice length
8? - Bodice too long
BACK
9P - Excess shoulder height (causing
looseness below shoulder)
10? ~ Excess shoulder length
llP - Excess upper CB length

12? - Excess upper back width

13? - Horizontal bulge - lower arm~
hole to mid-back

th - Bodice too long

 

 

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder drawn lower (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (l/h")

Armhole curved in (l/2")

Curved slash - spreading armhole (0")
to waist (3/8")

Lower part of alteration MP allows
(3/8") more width

Horizontal wedge - side seam (5/8") to
bust point (0") deepening waist
dart

Alteration 6P

waist edge drawn higher (5/8")

Shoulder drawn lower (l/8")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (l/h”)

Horizontal wedge — CB (l/h") to upper
back (0") resulting in added
shoulder ease (1/8") and a new
neck dart (l/h")

Armhole curved in (l/h")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h”) to
scye line (0”)

waist drawn higher (S/B”)

 

 

 

  

W‘”‘!‘*“Frxqgl$m______4___

 

 

PIN FITTING

18-1 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 18
BUST 3o 3/h
WAIST 29 1/8
HIPS U2 1/2
HEIGHT SIS"

168 lbs.

 

WEIGHT

 

 

 

9h

Pattern Fault
FRONT

1P - Excess shoulder height (causing
looseness below shoulder)

2P - Excess shoulder length
3P - Excess chest width

LP - Inadequate width from side of
bust to waist

SP - waist too narrow

6P - Inadequate ease over bust point
7P - Excess side bodice length

8? - Bodice too long

BACK

#

9P - Excess shoulder height (causing
looseness below shoulder)

lOP - Excess shoulder length

11? - Excess upper CB length

12P - Excess upper back width

13P - Horizontal bulge - lower arm-
hole to mid-back

lHP — Bodice too long

 

 

Pattern.Alteration

Shoulder drawn lower (l/h")

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (lfli")

Armhole curved in (l/2")

 

 

Curved slash - Spreading armhole (0")
to waist (3/8")

 

13?”

Lower part of alteration hP allows _ I‘muxnalgylzzf
(3/8") more width ; ,
_. l
Horizontal wedge - side seam (5/8”) to ' d
bust point (0") deepening waist : ,\
dart j i
5 \
Alteration 6P L l \

waist edge drawn higher (5/8")

Shoulder drawn lower (l/8”)

\

Armhole edge of shoulder reduced (l/h”;

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h") to upper
back (0") resulting in added
shoulder ease (1/8”) and a new
neck dart (l/h")

Armhole curved in (l/h”)

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h”) to
scye line (0")

waist drawn higher 5/8”)

 

VH”“* ‘Vwrieslaa___._

 

 

 

 

 

 

     
   

  
 

       

5-” AW ..__ k‘

s.

5—— n
\ 5‘.
'N‘
s.

E

1 I

77 ‘v— -. ‘19 r v" 7
i657", . _/ It‘s.- “In ,1, ' h“. P") I
/ 0/ ,/ / ',-' [’1’ ”/77 Wl‘fl'fffii': /’ rr';
ALL/g ‘ )1: ‘al'v/ " '/I, l, ' H V‘ . '1' / I 1' It), ‘ A! If,

'.‘ *4 Jed/.11" ; gain/Lita;
I I i

..e ., I ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ I | I"
w‘hg‘, " ' Y "“vl '-‘ \._,.-~I«'III
., A A. -.‘ _ . - r . 1 v ' , I . . I .I ' ! ‘ ‘ ~ | I “..L l ‘

'.' "...‘T‘IIII’ICII‘ ._I - 4 ‘ 5311.1 “7 T3

‘ . ‘.'.I ~: c ' ‘ "1":4‘1‘01\ U... . -. -I' t 'i‘-"."- I‘ rj" (“'4 13"‘1'3‘ '\ ‘I
l v. VII . 1 .LI; l ;:,u . L '_. I! .- LR‘LJH I 1.0 bl lJu 71.1 “I.
‘ "7 a .I' I -.- S... I .. . - , ~ 5' :-
III... my In»: ,«II'I'ally
_« V. ‘ - . I ;. ~\ I A v -': ‘1" . L ‘ g‘ _ . _- v ‘0 _ ‘ ‘
.wi.. .‘dm. mgr amourd,IU'.fIcsn distrlbutd,m:
1' " _ r» r-‘ ». - q ~'p- . m r j r 7' /\ » ’\ l e ‘r I“ ‘I
.' I --:SrI./ at bid“ w: ,JLIb t and HEALTH] LII: _I .~
| I|X . ' I Vu; V if .‘-
' " “w e . . . 1- ,- , I. ,. ,. ‘ e .
dIdIIII .rdnt and rice very fleshy
¢

I“ -. .‘ ,. .‘ I 1 ~ r‘ - 1
Sum; gwgr I Im- smooth

Arm I" LEI —~ :"III

L_l
|

Pattern Fault
FRONT

lh — Inadequate shoulder length

LE — Excess chest width

pd — Excess width - bust to waist
hn — Bodice too long

BACK

5H ~ Inadequate shoulder length

6E - Excess lower back width

7H - Excess length and width between
armhole and waist dart point

8M — Bodice too long

9M - waist too wide

 

95

 

Pattern Alteration

Alteration divided among three areas:
shoulder lengthened at armhole
(1/8") and neck edges (l/8");
slash 3M added (l/h") more length

Armhole curved in (l/h")

Vertical slash — spread at shoulder
(l/b"), overlapped at waist (I/hn)

Even horizontal overlap - side seam to
CF (l—l/2")

Armhole edge of shoulder lengthened
(l/h"); slash 6M added (I/8n)
more length ' V

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/8") and overlapped at waist

(l/h")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (0") to waist
dart point (l/h"), decreasing
depth of waist dart

Two even horizontal overlaps, CB to
side seam (5/8 and 7/8")

Side seam drawn in.(l/8") lower;
part 9f 6M also reduced waist

 

‘.'...l—

 

    

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

$

 

I

EW/l/lll/I/I/I

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

18—1 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Average stature, extremely full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium length and width bone structure—~small

POSTURE:

compared to flesh distribution
Slightly prominent shoulder blades

Erect
Flat back
Narrow shoulders for amount flesh distribution

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Very full generally

Small bust for amount of flesh distribution

Very fleshy at side of bust and around back at
bust level

Midriff front and back very fleshy

Shoulder line smooth

Arm girth-~full

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT

lH - Inadequate shoulder length

2H - Excess chest width

3H - Excess width - bust to waist

hH — Bodice too long

BACK

SH ~ Inadequate shoulder length

6H - Excess lower back width

7F - Excess length and width between
armhole and waist dart point

8M - Bodice too long

9M ~ waist too wide

95

 

Pattern Alteration

 

Alteration divided among three areas:
shoulder lengthened at armhole
(1/8") and neck edges (1/8");
slash 3M added (l/h") more length

Armhole curved in (l/h")

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/Lfl), overlapped at waist (l/h")

Even horizontal overlap - side seam to
CF (1-1/2")

Armhole edge of Shoulder lengthened
(l/ ")3 slash 6M added (1/8")
more length ‘

Vertical slash - spread at shoulder
(l/8") and overlapped at waist

(l/h")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (0") to waist
dart point (l/h"), decreasing
depth of waist dart

 

Two even horizontal overlaps, CB to

side seam (5/8 find 7/8")

Side seam drawn in.(l/8") lower;
part 9f 6M also reduced waist

 

 

96

18-1 Comparison of Results

FRONT AND BACK:

The pin fitted bodice was more comfortable than the measurement
fitted bodice. General tightness was an obvious fault of the lower
areas of the measured bodice; for instead of indicating that width
should be increased from armhole to waist, measurements called for a
decrease in width. Side width was increased through pin fitting
because of the fleshiness of the figure in this area. Measurements
did not indicate that shoulder length should be adjusted, but this
alteration was made in.pin fitting (see lh-Q p. 57).

An over-generous amount of ease had been added to the side front
of the pin fitted bodice; this excess appeared as a blade of fabric at
the side of the figure.

Both bodices required lengthening at the muslin proof fitting.

COMMENT:
This very fleshy figure was difficult to fit by either method.
The extremely rounded fleshy areas between body measurement lines

(e.g., between bustline and waistline) required greater than normal

ease allowances. This type of figure needs more allowance for expansion

than a large figure with proportions closer to average. The sudden
waist indentation, too, made pin fitting (as well as measuring) quite
difficult.

When a figure represents an extreme type, as this one did, it is

often advantageous to carry out two fittings-~experimenting the first

4- a.” “Ia—4.- '

97

time, then selecting the most effective alterations and carrying them

through in the second fitting.

THE UNAITEREU MUSL IN :

The unaltered bodice did not fit this figure at all. It was long
waisted.in front and even longer waisted in back. The shoulder area
fit smoothly, but the shoulder seam was too long. The neckline was
wide, and diagonal wrinkles radiated from above and below the tight
bustline. The crosswise grain sagged at the underarm. The back was
rather loose and a slight bulge appeared at the lower armhole.

Pin fitting corrected many of these faults, helping the bodice

to conform.more closely to the body contours.

 

 

98

Pattern Fault
FRONT
1P - Neck too low at shoulder edge

2? - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
bust point

3? - Excess length in CF section at
bust level

RP - Underarm dart pointing too high

5P - Underarm dart too short

6P

Underarm dart edge too low

waist too wide

7P

8P - Excess width over rib cage -
between bust point and waist

9P - Bodice too short
BACK

lOP - Neck too low

llP - Inadequate shoulder height

12? - Upper back too short

13P - Inadequate side width

IMP - Vertical bulge - lower armhole
to waist

lSP - Side seam too short

 

 

Pattern Alteration

Neck raised at Shoulder edge (l/h")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (7/8") to
bust point (1/ ")

Even horizontal overlap - bust point
to CF (l/h")

Underarm dart pointed lower
Underarm dart lengthened (2-1/8")
Underarm dart raised at side seam (l/h")

waist dart deepened (1/2") and side
seam drawn in (l/h") at waist edge

waist dart deepened from 7P to dart
point (1/2")

waist drawn lower (3/h")

Neck raised - CF (3/8") to shoulder
(l/h")

Shoulder height raised (l/h")

Horizontal slash - spread CB (l/h”) to
armhole (0")

Vertical slash - Spreading shoulder
dart point (l/8“) to waist dart
point (l/h")

Vertical wedge ~ lower armhole (l/h”)
to waist (0")

Waist lowered at side seam (7/8")

W” "If" 33%, , _.=.__ m--- .

‘1?

 

pp

 

 

 

_n_:_, r —:_lA__ "

 

 

 

 

 

 

"—‘-—\HSP

PIN FITTING

18-2 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 18

BUST 3o l/2
WAIST 2o 7/8
HIPS —~

HEIGHT S'll l/h"

WEIGHT 15h lbs.

 

 

 

98

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P

2P

3P

hP
SP
6P

7P

8P

9P

- Neck too low at shoulder edge

- Diagonal bulge - armhole to

bust point

- Excess length in CF section at
bust level

- Underarm dart pointing too high

- Underarm dart too short

- Underarm dart edge too low

- waist too wide

- Excess width over rib cage -
between bust point and waist

- Bodice too short

BACK

lOP

lIP

- Neck too low

~ Inadequate shoulder height

lZP - Upper back too short

l3P - Inadequate side width

IMP - Vertical bulge - lower armhole

to waist

lSP - Side seam too short

 

Pattern Alteration

Neck raised at shoulder edge (l/h")

Diagonal overlap - armhole (7/8") to
bust point (1/ ")

Even horizontal overlap - bust point
to CF (l/h")

Underarm dart pointed lower
Underarm dart lengthened (2-1/8")
Underarm dart raised at side seam (l/h")

waist dart deepened (1/2") and side
seam drawn in (l/h") at waist edge

waist dart deepened from 7P to dart
point (1/2")

waist drawn lower (3/ ")

Neck raised - CF (3/8") to shoulder
(1/h")

Shoulder height raised (l/u")

Horizontal slash - spread CB (l/h”) to
armhole (0")

Vertical slash - Spreading Shgulder
dart point (l/B”) to waist dart
point (l/u")

Vertical wedge - lower armhole (l/h”)
to waist (0”)

Waist lowered at side seam (7/8”)

upl' 'vv'wgggg ._

x

wrap—ML?-
lOP/j/

I”

 

31?

 

 

 

 

 

 

bku—hk . ~m4w’m- .-...e. ,3 ._‘,.- ..-

 

 

 

 

 

txllull_

__.__..—..—._—.-. _.~.~—-

 

Pattern Fault

 

 

 

99

Pattern Alteration

 

 

JTICETT
lM Inadequate shoulder length Shoulder lengthened at armhole (l/h")
and neck edges (1/8")
2M Excess length and width between Diagonal wedge - armhole (l/2") to
armhole and bust point bust point (0")
3M Bodice too long at CF Horizontal overlap - CF (l/h") to Side
seam (0")
hh' waist too wide waist dart deepened (l/2")
Sh. Side seam too short waist edge lowered (3/8") at Side seam
BACK
6M Inadequate shoulder length Shoulder lengthened at armhole (l/h")
. and.shoulder dart narrowed at
; shoulder edge (1/8")
.j
.3 7M Excess length and width - Angle overlap - armhole (l/h") to
lower armhole to waist waist (3/8")
8M Bodice too short at CB Horizontal slash - spread CB (3/ ")
‘ . .v to side seam (0")

.. _fl_ . , , m. .,. 9M - waist too wide waist dart deepened (l/2") and alter-
- :4 Hurt-.1“ , 3.: . ation 7M reduced. Width also

. ,-... _ ..-.co -3-~¢---‘.~ _-

 

lOM - Bodice too short Entire waist edge lowered - CB (l/2")

W '34 - "H M 5'1 H . z" r-z‘. -. . - 8
.‘u J."\I\L\,.. .t‘ ' '[ . u ‘ _. n. 1 t
, . to Side seam (3/ ')
13‘; with}: .' Lung-’1. . - v .. , . ’:-;::'3
7—) ‘I‘thn’I'. ‘(I- 732.211 i139!"
7;"?"2‘11‘431 ', ‘:.:-"?:3"'L I’lffir‘.
. .7 | _ 4—. ' I f} ._ if V . . ‘ ‘ _v', _ '7. _ ‘
HUI" ' I“ I: we. - NJ and :2‘ - . - r -' ,1 _ grinned
("I .t r . . — 1 ~ . . ,
Q J. .L ;,‘.l I 3.2M Tld i I I 1».
f" — ... , I - ‘y“ '1‘ I - u . r I. r ’ I v-
t’r’wmrrw. . lolly int-u. , : . _..---.I__«_ 'W
2.» I ad
,7... ,_ 'r' ' ;= 5“.“ '- . ‘
u»; blbldlr_l; Hedlum
"1
‘11).1 L

Fleshy algae side of bust

(.

Very siin midriff and waist For bust

r» . -\ , ‘~ *- . r- "\ n '\" ‘\ .‘ -\ r\ . - ‘
PI"-‘mlI’ln‘Il '... " JI’IBS BAJTODQ IIIJUCI‘ Tm r I“ ' '
fihouldtw' Mt'-rbonys especifi.

Al‘m girth -- enmiilum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ii alga”; ___V __ rig»-
'\
I ,
[In m
a \
\ 00"."
/ "~,m
\ N“
f
f
f
5
6M 1
I g / 3M
’ .............. -
I ‘ ,
2 HM
4M1 T’E

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

18-2 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, full average figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Very long, medium heaviness
Prominent shoulder blades
Prominent chest bones

POSTURE: Forward head and neck pitched forward
Slightly rounding shoulders
Prominent bony shoulder blades-—hollow in between

shoulder blades

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Medium
Full bust
Fleshy along side of bust
Very slim midriff and waist for bust size
Prominent bones across upper back below shoulder
Shoulder line-~bony, especially at edge
Arm girth~~medium

 

-\ uL...

Pattern Fault
FR ONT

IN - Inadequate shoulder length

2M - Excess length and width between
armhole and bust point

3M - Bodice too long at CF

hM - waist too wide

SM - Side seam too short

6M - Inadequate shoulder length

7M — Excess length and width -
lower armhole to waist
8M — Bodice too short at CB

9M’— waist too wide

lOM - Bodice too short

 

99

Pattern Alteration

 

Shoulder lengthened at armhole (l/h”)
and neck edges (1/8”)

Diagonal wedge — armhole (1/2") to
bust point (0")

Horizontal overlap - CF (l/h") to side
seam (0")

waist dart deepened (1/2")

waist edge lowered (3/8”) at side seam

Shoulder lengthened at armhole (l/ll")
and shoulder dart narrowed at

shoulder edge (1/8")

Angle overlap - armhole (l/h") to [
waist (3/8")

Horizontal slash - spread CB (3/h")
to side seam (0")

waist dart deepened (l/Z") and alter-
ation 7M reduced width also

Entire waist edge lowered - CB (1/2")
to side seam {3/8")

 

100

18-2 Comparison of Results

saw
The pin fitted front needed one minor adjustment--deepening and
shaping the waist dart over a very slim midriff. In all other respects,
it fitted well. There was a blade of excess from the shoulder to waist
in the measurement fitted front. This fulness was caused partly by
removal of too little side bust width; below the bust it was caused by
the figure's slim.midriff (as contrasted to a full bustline). Underarm
dart length could not be determined by measurements. Lengthening the
underarm dart of the pin fitted bodice took up the excess fulness that

wrinkled below it.

gggg;

The fulness in the upper back of the figure created a front-to-
back balance problem (see fig. 17 , page 153 ). Although measurements
indicated that the back was too short, they did not indicate whether
the upper or lower back needed the extra length. Lower back length
was increased; therefore, this balance problem (caused by upper back
fulness) was still not solved by measurement fitting. Pin fitting
showed up the need for more upper back length.

Shifting some excess ease from the upper armhole to the shoulder
'would have eliminated the upper armhole bulge. (This latter fault
also appeared in exactly the same place in the measurement fitted
:muslin). The measured muslin, which was not lengthened and widened at

the upper back, appeared tight across this area.

lOl

COMMENT:

The balance adjustments for this figure did not ShOW’in body
measurements. Although the fulness of the upper back of the figure was
observed, measurements did not indicate the necessity of increasing
length or width above the scye. The width of the upper back may not
have shown in measuring because of incorrect placement of body landmarks
at the armhole.

Compared to the average person, this figure was proportionately
much larger in back than in front. A.reduction in front length was
indicated by measurements, particularly between armhole and bust, where
the forward shoulders tended to shorten the figure. The pin fitting
resulted in a trimly fitted bodice. Only minor additional corrections

were needed in the muslin proof.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The waist of the unaltered bodice was too short and wide in front
and back. The underarm dart was too high and narrow, giving the side
of the bodice a mature, unflattering line.

Excess bust and chest fulness in the unaltered muslin caused
puffiness in the upper front area, and a blade of excess fabric fell at

the side back near the armhole.

 

 

102

Pattern Fault

FRONT

 

1P - Excess shoulder height
2P - Excess shoulder length
3P - Excess chest width and lower

armhole tightness

MP - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist dart point

5P ~ Underarm dart pointed too high
6P - Underarm dart too short

7? - waist too wide

BACK:

8P - Excess shoulder height

9P - Excess shoulder length
lOP - Excess upper back width

11? — Diagonal bulge — armhole to
side back at scye level

12P - Lower back ease, concentrated
above waist dart, needed re~
distribution

 

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lowered at armhole edge

(1/2")

Shoulder reduced at armhole edge
(l/u")

Armhole curved deeper - shoulder to
underarm (l/h")

Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/2") to
waist dart point (0")

Underarm dart point lowered
Underarm dart lengthened (2—3/h”)

waist dart deepened (l/2")

Shoulder lowered at armhole edge

{5/8")
Shoulder reduced at armhole edge (l/d”)
Armhole curved in (l/2")
Diagonal wedge - overlapping at arm~
hole (7/8”), spreading at scye

level (l/B”), resulting in added
width at waist dart point (l”)

New waist dart (l/2") introduced
between original waist dart and
side seam; side seam drawn out
(l/Z") to keep original waist
size

 

 

 

 

 

PIN FITTING

18—3 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 18
BUST 37 7/8
WAIST 28 7/8
HIPS no l/2
HEIGHT 577"

WEIGHT 156 lbs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

102

 

 

 

 

Pattern Fault Pattern Alteration

FRONT

1P - Excess shoulder height Shoulder lowered at armhole edge
(IL/2")

2P - Excess shoulder length Shoulder reduced at armhole edge
(IL/L..")

3P - Excess chest width and lower Armhole curved deeper - shoulder to

armhole tightness underarm (l/h")
MP - Diagonal bulge - armhole to Diagonal wedge - armhole (1/2") to

waist dart point waist dart point (0")

SP - Underarm dart pointed too high Underarm dart point lowered

6P - Underarm dart too short Underarm dart lengthened (2-3/h")

7P - Waist too wide Waist dart deepened (l/Z")

BACK:

 

 

Shoulder lowered at armhole edge

(Bf/8") Magma er

 

 

8P - Excess shoulder height

9P - Excess shoulder length Shoulder reduced at armhole edge (l/hfl)

lOP - Excess upper back width Armhole curved in (l/2") '1'» ru‘ ;_. g

Diagonal wedge - overlapping at arm—
hole (7/8”), spreading at scye
level (1/8”), resulting in added
width at waist dart point (l”)

llP ~ Diagonal bulge - armhole to
side back at scye level

12P - Lower back ease, concentrated New waist dart (1/2") introduced
above waist dart, needed re- between original waist dart and
distribution side seam; side seam drawn out
(l/2") to keep original waist
a

O
SZV

 

 

 

 

:ut ver~

sack

yer b;am~*

:‘ c 's
.1L.L_1.

. m —. fl -\
' ; 3 _Lu [-5
front

 

I) ' I
as. I“
(,1; QIISL

midriff

1,.

. 1. , .v. . a
I 131% UL‘IIWT‘.”II

 

them dawn

Pattern Fault

I;
4—9

{—4
7 2‘.

 

lb - Inadequate shoulder length

2m ~ Inadequate chest width

3H ~ Excess length and width between
armhole and bust

hm - Excess length at side

5h ~ Bodice too long at CF

6h - waist too wide

 

7M ~ Inadequate shoulder length

8M - Inadequate upper back width

9M - Bodice too long at side seam
(must match front which was
shortened by hM)

lOM — Bodice too short below waist
dart

103

Pattern Correction

Shoulder lengthened at neck edge
(1/8") and armhole edge (5/8")

Armhole curved in (3/8")
Tiagonal overlap - armhole (5/8”)
to bust point (l/h"), resulting

in decreased waist dart depth

Underarm dart deepened (1/8") and
lengthened (3/8")

Horizontal wedge - CF (3/8") to side
seam (0”)

waist dart deepened (l/h")

Shoulder lengthened at neck edge
(1/8“) and armhole edge (5/8")

Armhole curved out (1/2")
Horizontal wedge - side seam (1/8")

to waist dart (0")

Waist edge lowered below waist
dart (1/2”)

 

 

‘ very fleshy (just oclow why?

A at top of shoulder blades jwv'
at upper back

"1idrline, dipping

.1. .
(

:, 1‘11:
:1. . - ‘-.I 11.]. '1.L14‘

   

 

 

--_5M

- . --.
oollllll’I/
I

/

‘M

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

18~3 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE:

Tall stature, extremely full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium to long, heavy

Sharp shoulder slope

Chest very prominent, but flesh covered
POSTURE: Erect
High bust but very full
Flat lower back

’YIIIIIIIII/Illl/z

\

 

6M

Bony shoulder blades, with hollow between them down

center back

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Full solid
Full bust
Fleshy along side of bust
Medium slim front midriff

Back midriff very fleshy (just below bust level)
Fleshy pads at tOp of shoulder blades just below

shoulders at upper back
Smooth shouldwline, dipping in the center
Arm girth medium full

 

 

Pattern Fault

 

SM

d»:

BACK

7M

8M

9M

10M

Inade uate shoulder length

dequate chest width

F—i
Q)

n

Fl

xcess length and width between
armhole and bust

Excess length at side

Bodice too long at CF

waist too wide

Inadequate shoulder length

Inadequate upper back width

Bodice too long at side seam
(must match front which was
shortened by hM)

Bodice too short below waist
dart

103

Pattern Correction

Shoulder lengthened at neck edge
(l/B") and armhole edge (5/8")

Armhole curved in (3/8")
Diagonal overlap — armhole (5/8”)
to bust point (l/h"), resulting

in decreased waist dart depth

Underarm dart deepened (1/8") and
lengthened (3/8")

Horizontal wedge - CF (3/8") to side
seam (0")

waist dart deepened (l/h")

Shoulder lengthened at neck edge
(1/8") and armhole edge (5/8")

Armhole curved out (1/2")
Horizontal wedge - side seam (1/8")

to waist dart (0")

waist edge lowered bGIOW’WaiSt
dart (l/2")

 

10h

18-3 Comparison of Results

aw
The pin fitted front required no important changes, since it fit
quite smoothly; however, the measurement fitted front needed several
revisions. The shoulder seams were too long and straight for sloping
shoulders. The armhole curve was out too far for the narrow chest.
Bust width required expansion to its original fulness (it had been
reduced in measurement fitting), and the underarm dart needed lengthening
and lowering. Possibly the minimum bust ease used as a standard for

measurement fitting was not sufficient for this large compactly built

figure.

CK

The measurement fitted back, with only minor original pattern
adjustments, fitted very well. In contrast, the pin fitted version
had a large unflattering puff at the tip of the original waist dart,
resulting from transference of an armhole wedge (llP). However, this
alteration which also shortened the armhole, did help the armhole to
.fit more comfortably. Therefore the wedge at the armhole was needed,
'but should have been transferred in a way that would distribute back
ease more evenly. Concentration of lower back ease in an area where
'the figure was heavy did not conceal this fault; instead, it emphasized

'this very fleshy lower back section.

 

‘s... .

 

lOS

COMMENT:

The back of this figure brought out a problem Opposite to one
found in fitting the average figure. The majority of women need a
large amount of upper back width (over prominent shoulder blades) yet
require proportionately less lower back width (for narrow thin lower
backs). The difference makes it difficult to provide needed shoulder
blade ease without getting puffiness over the tip of the waist dart.
This figure, with a comparatively small upper back, and full lower
back needed a greater than normal amount of lower back ease (to reduce
the waist dart as much as possible while keeping the waist indented).

The pin fitted back also pointed up another important aspect of
back alteration-~that very good judgment is required when making
alterations over seemingly prominent bones or curves at the upper back.
If a great reduction is made in one area, transference of this (wedge
or overlap) will hold a large amount of ease in another place. Several
smaller wedges (rather than one sharp wedge) often gives more flatter-
ing results. Since most back contours are gently curved, they must be
handled with greater restraint than the more definite front bustline
curve. It is never desirable to accent the back curves, but it is
sometimes an advantage to do so in front. The goal is to make the
back appear flat. This is best achieved if ease for the shoulder blade

is held above, below, and at the sides.

106

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered muslin was wearable. There were, however, wrinkles
in the front underarm area, as well as some in the side back. The back
armhole was too loose. The section above the back waistline was long
and tight. Pin fitting improved the front of this pattern greatly.

An error in ease adjustment, however, did not help to improve the

appearance of the back.

 

10?

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT
1P - Excess shoulder height
2? - Excess shoulder length

3P - Diagonal wrinkle - armhole to CF

HP - Diagonal bulge - armhole to bust
point (due to inadequate bust

width)
SP - Excess chest width
6P - Inadequate armhole depth
(resulting in armhole tightness)
7P - Underarm dart pointing high
8P - Underarm dart too short
Egg;
9P - Excess shoulder length
lOP - Horizontal bulge - armhole to

upper back

ll? - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
waist

12P Bodice too long at CB

 

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder seam lowered - neck edge
(1/8") to armhole edge (3/h")

Shoulder reduced at armhole edge

(l/LIu )

Diagonal wedge - CF (l/h") to armhole

(0")

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole
(l/h"), spread at bust point

{5/8"}
Armhole curved in (1/2")

Alteration SP continued to underarm

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (2")

Shoulder reduced at armhole edge

(l/u")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (l/h”) to
up er back (0”), resulting in
added mid- and lower back case

Diagonal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
waist (0”)

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/h”) to side
seam (0”)

 

l1?

 

LPVTT’
9P

_. ....... .1141

no?

 

 

vl'llll'l' "

 

PIN FITTING

18-h FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE 18

BUST 39 1/2
WAIST 27 7/8
HIPS D2

HEIGHT sis 1/2H

WEIGHT 162 lbs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10?

Pattern Fault

 

FRONT
1P - Excess shoulder height
2P - Excess shoulder length
3? - Diagonal wrinkle - armhole to CF
RP ~ Diagonal bulge - armhole to bust
point (due to inadequate bust
width)
5P - Excess chest width
6P - Inadequate armhole depth
(resulting in armhole tightness)
7P - Underarm dart pointing high
8P - Underarm dart too short
BACK
9P — Excess shoulder length
10? - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
upper back
llP ~ Diagonal bulge ~ armhole to
waist
lZP - Bodice too long at CB

 

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder seam lowered — neck edge
(1/8") to armhole edge (B/h")

Shoulder reduced at armhole edge

(l/h")

Diagonal wedge - CF (l/h") to armhole

(0")

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole

(l/h"), spread at bust poin'

(5/8")

Armhole curved in (l/2")

t

Alteration SP continued to underarm

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (2")

Shoulder reduced at armhole elge

(l/h")

Horizontal wedge ~ armhole (l/h”
upper back (0”), resulting

) to
in

added mid- and lower back ease

Diagonal wedge - armhole {3/5"}
waist (0”)

Horizontal wedge - CB (l/un) to
seam (0")

vW‘ 2w

to

, _
S 10:13

K‘lmfi’i‘:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

' V F'WV.€S\L\

Pattern Fault

 

1H - Inadequate shoulder length

2h m Excess chest width

3H m Excess side length and width

too short at waist dart

108

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge
' I
(1/2")

Armhole curved in (1/2”)

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole

“““T' -.a V l n a _ ' a n e Iv
H near armhole (l/h ) tapering 01f at in
‘éf g1 hh.~ Inadequate bust width Diagonal slash (continuation of 3M)
‘ ; spread at bust point (l/2") re—
~ sulting in increased waist
dart depth
f 1 5h ~ Excess side length at bust Underarm dart lengthened (2")
/( \‘ level and deepened (l/h”)
:2; 7
‘ -~-‘-. _ A 1 x'- .- ~fl - . - ' ‘ 1 .
“‘ hi ch - DOGlCB too long at Side seam, horizontal slash — overlapped at Side

seam (l/h"), spread waist dart (l/h”)
to or (on)

\u 9 7h » Waist too wide "waist dart deepened (l/B”)

 

 

8M - Inadequate shoulder length

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge
(3/8") and shoulder dart narrowed

(IL/8”)

”in 9H ~ Inadequate upper back width Armhole curved out (l/h”)
um lOM ~ Bodice too short at CB, too long waist edge lowered at CB (l/h")
rt at side seam raised at side seam (l/h”)
“,7} 3 IIH — waist too wide Vwaist dart deepened (1/2")

I; 4‘11
A J «1‘s us I, h I ah t
J v1r -. ~‘>', '.' :1 1‘\ r‘ V: 1. r ‘ I‘ ;-,~ w r‘ ‘ ,\. ‘1 r ~"- ‘3’,“ ‘ '.‘. ‘~"~
1,ciaigp,, Iiat Mandi. null Wu CfinLcl liack L),rn ~
‘0‘}. M l "08
I ,~ ,~" I 9’ i " {‘1‘ 3 t' 'y-Vr"
f do , mm ._ y In‘II/‘Icix
c
‘ 'I'» '7 ( ”1 I l I“) , . l , .. ,e . .
;g;;1 glimif EHIII, L esny Ernierally»
. ' . -' _ ,-. "I W - ,>‘\ , ’, -- —. i . .‘
7‘ Aide z.» ::»u..;.t and. In by.
-. w . ; “'1,a'..~ H,‘ M --. ' _\'., .- .
1’“: mm ‘.‘.rw Ilenflg/ , back uSprBClad i (1 I. slams
7“' - ‘I..- ’\ VI.‘ "PI" L A I I- ’ ‘ . I ' I
;,csn5 I Ling over Shoulder bone upper back
7: _ I, . ,~ -. V '
orru‘:_>1,: , , -.~ d; 1 line

"'~’w;-wi'jn;m I-II'III girth

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NM NM

 

 

MEASUREMENT FITTING

18-h FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, extremely full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium long, heavy
No prominent joints
Medium prominent shoulder blades
Very prominent chest bones
Shoulder quite sloping

POSTURE: Erect
Average bust height
Straight flat back, hollow center back between shoulder
blade edges
Head slightly forward

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Full, fleshy generally

Full bust
Fleshy along side of bust and in back at bust level

Midriff front fleshy, back especially fleshy at sides
Fleshy covering over shoulder bone at side of upper back
Smooth shoulder line

Medium full arm girth

 

 

Pattern Fault

recur
m

{L..J

Jill "'

OM -

9M _

lOM -

llM -

Inadequate shoulder length

Excess chest width

Excess side length and width
near armhole

Inadequate bust width

Excess side length at bust
level

Bodice too long at side seam,

too short at waist dart

waist too wide

Inadequate shoulder length

Inadequate upper back width

Bodice too short at CB, too long
at side seam

waist too wide

108

Pattern Alteration

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge

( 1/2">
Armhole curved in (l/Z")

Diagonal slash - overlapped at armhole
(l/h") tapering off at hM

Diagonal slash (continuation of 3M)
spread at bust point (l/2") re-
sulting in increased waist
dart depth

Underarm dart lengthened (2")
and deepened (l/h”)

Horizontal slash — overlapped at side
seam (l/h"), spread waist dart (l/ ")
to CF (0")

’Waist dart deepened (1/8")

Shoulder lengthened at armhole edge
(3/8") and shoulder dart narrowed

(IL/8")
Armhole curved out (l/U")

waist edge lowered at CB (l/h")
raised at side seam (l/h”)

'Waist dart deepened (1/2")

 

109

18-h Comparison of Results

ear

Both bodices looked very well-dparticularly in front. Each front
required only one important correction-~an increase in bust width.

The diagonal armhole to CF bulge (3P) might have resulted from
tightness over the bust. After bust ease was increased, the pattern
might have dropped to its correct position. That is why when a large
increase in bust width is made, it is often necessary to try the tissue
on a second time before it is ready to cut. This second trial provides
an opportunity to re-evaluate the fit of the bodice front and back,
since tightness in one area (especially at the bustline) often changes

the fit of many other, seemingly unrelated, areas.

33.5919
.A bulge appeared from armhole to waist in the side of the measure-
ment fitted back. Aside from this point, the measurement fitted back,
‘with few other tissue alterations, fitted more satisfactorily than the
jpin fitted version.
In pin fitting, a horizontal armhole bulge (lOP) was transferred
'to the waist dart. Lapping out this armhole wedge was a mistake--indi-
cated.by the diagonal fold it created in the muslin proof. Excess
rappeared at the back armhole because the tightness of the front pulled
'the back up and into an armhole bulge. As soon as the front was enlarged

cyver the bustline the back returned to its correct position. This

llO

fitting fault is one which can easily occur (in pin fitting) unless
the cause of the bulge is carefully analyzed. In this case, the
upper back of the figure had no outstanding curve, therefore the bulge

could not have radiated from a prominent fleshy or bony point there.

COMMENT:

Although each method.used different alterations to improve the
appearance of the garment, each one accomplished its aim. Actually,
the outlines of both altered patterns were very similar; therefore, at
least in this case, it was possible to obtain satisfactory results
through measurements which interpreted figure variations differently

from pin fitting alterations on the same figure.

THE UNALTERED MUSLIN:

The unaltered muslin, though wearable, did not fit well. The
bustline was tight and the side front did not have the trim, youthful
fit that this young, but full figure needed.

The shoulders were too long and high. The excess shoulder height
caused the shoulders to droop, forming diagonal wrinkles below the
shoulder line. The back was long waisted. This excess length was
held across the midback by the tightness across the front of the
jpattern. This tightness also resulted in diagonal wrinkles radiating
.from the underarm in front and.back.

Pin fitting improved the bodice front, giving it a youghtul line
‘with the correct amount of fulness. Although the pin fitting alterations
:in.back were not entirely accurate,'they, too, improved the appearance

of the garment .

 

 

lll

Pattern Fault
FRONT ,

1P - Horizontal wrinkle below neck-
base

ZP - Diagonal bulge - armhole to
bust point

3P ~ Underarm dart pointing too
high

Underarm dart too short

hP
5P

Underarm dart too low

6P

Bodice too tight at side

Bodice too short

7?

BACK
8P — Neck too low at CB

9P - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
upper back

lOP - Inadequate lower back ease

llP - Bodice too tight at side

lZP - Bodice too short

_ It"

Pattern Alteration

Horizontal wedge - or (3/8") to
alteration 2P

Diagonal slash - overlapping at arm-
hole (1/2"), spreading at bust
point (5/8")

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (2-1/2")

Underarm dart raised at side seam

(3M)

Side seam drawn out - armhole (l/h”)
to waist (B/h")

Waist edge lowered - CF (l/2") to
side seam (3/h")

Neck raised at CB (l/2")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (3/8") to
upper back, resulting in added
shoulder ease (l/B") and lower
back ease

Lower slash of alteration 9P

Side seam drawn out - armhole (1")
to waist (l-l/h")

waist edge lowered - CB (1") to
side seam (B/h")

‘ ‘3“ twin...

 

8P

 

 

1"]![1’1'

 

 

 

 

 

‘2?

(a?

’J K
7P

 

‘. __ ...... IIUIIIIIIIIIII |

 

7? \

 

PIN FITTING

18-5 FIGURE SIZE

PATTERN SIZE l8

BUST hO
WAIST 32
HIPS h?

HEIGHT 5'7 l/h"

WEIGHT 160 lbs.

 

 

 

 

111

Pattern Fault

FRONT

1P - Horizontal wrinkle below neck-
base

2P — Diagonal bulge - armhole to
bust point

3P - Underarm dart pointing too
high
MP — Underarm dart too short

5P

Underarm dart too low

Bodice too tight at side

6P

7P — Bodice too short

BACK
8P - Neck too low at CB
9P - Horizontal bulge - armhole to
upper back
lOP — Inadequate lower back ease
llP - Bodice too tight at side
12P - Bodice too short

 

Pattern Alteration

Horizontal wedge - CF (3/8") to
alteration 2P

Diagonal slash - overlapping at arm-
hole (l/2”), spreading at bust
point (5/8“)

Underarm dart pointed lower

Underarm dart lengthened (2—1/2")

Underarm dart raised at side seam

(3/t")

Side seam drawn out - armhole (l/h")
to waist (3/h")

waist edge lowered - or (1/2") to
side seam (B/h”)

Neck raised at CB (1/2")

Horizontal wedge - armhole (3/8”) to
upper back, resulting in added
shoulder ease (l/d") and lower
back ease

Lower slash of alteration 9P

Side seam drawn out - armhole (1”)
to waist (l—l/h")

waist edge lowered - CB (1”) to
side seam (3/h”)

 

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“3153‘ .
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TDOPT
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1% ~ Neck too high

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12M -

Inadequate shoulder height

Excess shoulder length

Inadequate bust width

Bodice too short at bust level

Bodice too short below bust

waist too narrow

xcess shoulder height

[1.3

Excess shoulder length

Inadequate back width

Bodice too short

waist too narrow

Pattern Alteration

, l"
Neck lowered at CF (3/5")
Entire shoulder raised (1/2")

Overlap - shoulder (1/2") tapering
off to hM alteration

Vertical slash from 3M through
waist dart point, increasing
width at bust point (1”)

Horizontal slash - spread underarm
dart point (l/h") to CF (l/2")

Even horizontal slash - spread side
seam to CF (3/h")

waist dart deepened (3/8")

T... . /
entire shoulder lowered (3/8")

Shoulder reduced at armhole edge
(l/h"); shoulder dart deepened

(l/h")

Vertical slash - spread shoulder
dart point (1/8") to waist
dmt(lflw)

Horizontal slash ~ Spread CB (1") to
side seam (3/h")

waist dart depth decreased (l/2")

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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:1 \,

18-5 FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

MEASUREMENT FITTING

 

FIGURE TYPE: Tall stature, extremely full figure

BONE STRUCTURE: Medium long, heavy
Shoulders appear small for size of figure

POSTURE: Erect
High bust
Flat back, with fleshy covering on shoulder blades

FLESH DISTRIBUTION: Very full

Full bust (appears smaller because of large amount of
flesh distribution in bust area)

Very fleshy bust line~~at side of bust and in back at
bust level

Midriff fleshy in front and back, especially just
above waist front and back

Shoulder line smooth

Arm girth full, but arms quite full to wrist

 

Ah,

 

1-? or T
WM _ No h e y'a‘
all} J VCLL U00 119711.

2H7~ Inadequate shoulder height

xcess shoulder length

Le

hN_— Inadequate bust width

SH — Bodice too short at bust level

6H — Bodice too short below bust

The» waist too narrow

 

8M — Ex'ess shoulder hei ht
g

9M - Excess shoulder length

lOM — Inadequate back width

llM - Bodice too short

l2M ~ waist too narrow

Pattern Alteration

y 1 ~ *‘1 I
Neck lowered at Cb (3/8”)

'ntire shoulder raised (l/2")

L323

Overlap - shoulder (l/2") tapering
off to hM alteration

Vertical slash from 3M through
waist dart point, increasing
width at bust point (l”)

Horizontal slash - spread underarm
dart point (l/h") to CF (l/2”)

Even horizontal slash ~ Spread side
seam to CF (3/h")

Waist dart deepened (3/8")

Entire shoulder lowered (3/8")

Shoulder reduced at armhole edge
(l/h"); shoulder dart deepened

(1M)

Vertical slash — spread shoulder
dart point (1/8") to waist
dart (l/fi")

Horizontal slash - Spread CB (1") to
side seam (3/h")

waist dart depth decreased (l/2")

 

113

18-5 Comparison of Results

agar

The measurement fitted front was too long and wide at the side
of the figure. The pin fitted front had a smooth'but easy appearance,
with only a slight excess in side width and waist circumference.
‘A vertical blade of excess at the side of the measured front indicated
that too much bustline ease had been added. Original shoulder height
was restored by lowering the shoulder line (it had been raised in
measurement fitting); the neck base curve was also changed to its
original depth. These results indicated that the neck and shoulder
areas could not be fitted accurately with the measurements available.
these measurements could not provide enough information to make
accurate shoulder height and neck depth adjustments.

The measured bodice was shortened, too. Some of the excess
length, added in measurement fitting, was eliminated from the muslin

proof.

BACK:

The measurement fitted back provided a satisfactory amount of
ease, fitting better than the slightly full pin fitted back. Both
:measured.and.pin fitted backs were too long and required reductions
:in.length. Because this figure was very full at the sides, adding
'width at the side seam was quite successful (this is not always

advisable).

11h

COMMENT:

Measurement of the full figure is sometimes difficult, since the
measurement lines are not always clearly defined. This is especially
true of a mature figure with a great deal of evenly distributed fulness,
and of the figure with a fleshy midriff but narrow waist-—sometimes
found in overweight younger women. In measuring either of these figure
types, good judgment of ease (amount and distribution) is necessary.

.A size 20 pattern would have been slightly large for this figure,
but, easier to alter than a size 18. Reducing a pattern (in pin fitting)
is easier than adding fulness, because the figure's needs can be seen
immediately, and excess length and width can be pinned out accordingly.
Increasing pattern size requires an estimate of the addition required,
removal of the pattern from the figure, slashing and Spreading the
jpattern, then replacing it on the figure to adjust areas that may have

'been.distorted by the strain of a tight pattern.

TFHE UNALTERED MUSLIM:

The unaltered size 18 pattern was not large enough for this figure.
IIt was too tight in almost every dimension. The sleeve was so tight
'that the elbow could not be bent. Although the neckline could be
.fastened, the remainder of the CF gapped.

Pin fitting improved the fit of this pattern so that it could be

worn comfortably.

CHAPTER IV

COMPARISON OF RESULTS OF MEASUREMENT
AND PIN FITTING METHODS

Limitations of Fittinggwith a Master Pattern

The master pattern bodice, used for all fittings, could not be
altered to fit every figure variation.perfectly since it provided
shaping only through darts at the waistline, front underarm, and back
shoulder line. If, for example, there was a pronounced hollow between
the armhole and bust at the side front of a figure, the excess could
be eliminated from the pattern only if a seam such as a French dart or
yoke line crossed the hollow. Patterns with many seams or darts
simplify alterations within the front or back of a bodice and make
more precise fitting possible. However, since the fitting limitations
of the master pattern arekpresent in many types of dresses, this style
seemed desirable for the study, showing up many figure variations and

the problems involved in fitting them.

I. METHOD WHICH PRODUCED THE BETTER FITTING GKRMENT

.A.jMethod.Requiring_Fewer Muslin.Proof Corrections

Faults found in the pin and measurement fitted muslin proofs
were pinned out or marked for tightness (Table IV, page 132). The
corrections of these faults was rated as "easy" or "difficult" to

:make. An.adjustment in the length or depth of a seam or dart was

115

116

considered "easy". .A correction which involved the revision of several
seams and darts in a section of the pattern was rated "difficult".

Of the two fitting methods tested on each figure, the one which
showed fewer "difficult” corrections in the muslin proof also showed
that more basic figure problems had been solved by this fitting method.
Therefore, this fitting method was more valuable than the other method
used.

Results obtained from this investigation could not be considered
conclusive sinceonly twenty subjects were used. The muslin proofs
which had been.pin fitted required fewer corrections than the measure-
ment fitted proofs, on eighteen of the twenty figures in the study
(The exceptions, 16-1 and 16-5, needed more "easy" muslin proof cor-
rections after the pin fittings.).

Although the number of muslin proof corrections gives some in-
sight into the success of a fitting method, another factor, more
difficult to chart, often modifies the value of merely listing the
number of faults. That is, that one very outstanding fitting fault,
(such as a large puff over the back waist dart) can often give a less
attractive fit than a combination of several lesser faults (such as a
slight armhole bulge, general excess back width, and a shoulder seam
that swings forward). Therefore, though the figures might indicate
that pin fitting is a far better method than measurement fitting,other
factors, just as important, should be examined before completing the

evaluation.

 

 

117

B. Method Fitting_the Maximum Number of Figure Variations

Almost every figure variation can be fitted through the pin
fitting method, because it deals with the pattern directly on the
figure; therefore the effect of each figure variation on the pattern
can be observed in one glance.

Measurement fitting, which deals with the figure and pattern
separately, could not as completely relate the pattern to each contour
and figure variation. For example, a measurement taken across a very
prominent shoulder blade, simply indicated that more back width was
needed (see 12-1). The measurement did not indicate where over the
upper back the extra case should be held. Another example illustrating
this point was in adjusting underarm.darting to bust contours (see 16-2).
This alteration was easy to do in.pin fitting and was frequently used
to raise side front grain and eliminate wrinkles that form at the under-
arm. The need for this type of alteration was seldom indicated by
measurement fitting.

Measurement fitting was useful in certain other areas, however.
For example, waist circumference could be determined more readily by
measurements than by pin fitting, since pattern tissue tends to tear

'where it is drawn tight and smooth.

C. Method Which Concealed More Figure Irregularities
Although fitting is not always considered a camouflaging process,
the preperly fitted garment will help to conceal or modify some figure

irregularities.

118

In pin fitting the figure can be observed in direct relationship
to the pattern. A.thin figure may appear less angular if the pattern
is fitted with some excess ease (lb-l). The amount of ease to allow
can be seen and judged on the figure so the pattern will not be made
too large. In fitting the same slender figure by measurements one can
, only estimate the average amount of ease required. Even though figure
characteristics are observed and considered in the measurement fitting,
they are only a guide to altering the pattern. If one adds ease to
help conceal slenderness, the resulting pattern may be entirely too
large to be flattering.

Ease requirements varied greatly among individuals. This was
illustrated by 18-3. Since this "solidly" built large figure required
more than the average amount of bust ease the pattern which allowed
average ease proved too tight. Another large figure (18-5) was given
a more than adequate ease allowance in measurement fitting. The muslin
proof showed both excess length and width, because the figure did not
need the extra allowance.

Balance differences (Figure 17, page 153) were involved in many
figure problems that could not be corrected by measurements. Measure-
ments, for example, indicated that upper back width of 12-2 should be
increased. These measurements did not, however, show that the increase
was needed near the CB, rather than at the side back. Neither did the
measurements point out that excess length was due to a back hollow
above the waist which required a reduction in length.below, rather than

above the scye line.

119

D. Conclusion

 

Pin fitting usually resulted in better fitted garments for all
figure types than did measurement fitting. Some special figure vari-
ations could not be handled by measurement fitting. (A measurement of
a rounded contour, for example, would not differ from a measurement of
a straight line of the same length.) It would also be very difficult
to conceal unusual figure characteristics through measurements, since
measurements and ease allowances were mechanical and different figures

took up differing amounts of ease.
II. METHOD WHICH'REQUIRED MORE SKILL

A. Skills Required for Measurement Fittiug

There were two main areas in which errors might occur in measure-
ment fitting: (a) in the process of measuring the figure and (b) in
translating the measurements into pattern alterations.

l. Placement of Body Landmarks: ‘When body landmarks were in-
correctly placed, all the measurements dependent on them were incorrect.
This fault occurred in 12-5 where the side seam landmark was placed too
far forward. As a result, the back of the figure seemed very wide at
the scye and waist, whereas the bust and waist fronts of the figure
appeared very narrow. When the pattern was altered according to these
measurements the front was too tight and the back was slightly wide.

2. Looseness of Measuring_Tap_: The use of body circumference
measurements sometimes resulted in a tightly fitted bodice, because

the measuring tape was not held loosely enough. This was especially

120

true when a metal tape was used. When the tape was held too loosely,
though, the measurement fitted garment was too loose. Experience in
measuring several figures helped to produce more reliable results.

3. Stance of the Subject: Often the subject being measured found
it difficult to stand straight but not stiff--relaxed but not slouching.
Although some individuals could never be measured perfectly because of
this problem, the speed of the person measuring would help to minimize
this problem.

A. JudginggFigure Characteristics: Unlike some measurement
fitting methods, this method required the person measuring to observe
each individual's figure characteristics. (Appendix A, page 137)
These, combined with the measurements, helped to improve the accuracy
of measurement fitting alterations.

S. Translating_Measurements into Corrections: This was the most
difficult part of measurement fitting. .Although some previous knowledge
of pattern alteration is helpful, it probably would not be necessary,
if certain suggestions for basic alteration techniques (Appendix C,
Image 151) and ease allowances (Appendix A, page 136) were followed.

Bach measurement was clear-cut and the figure characteristics
tumially'bore out the measurements (if measurements were correct). The
kiJui of correction and exact placement of it required judgment and
Ixractice, however. 'When some skill was acquired, it was easier to see
possibilities for making corrections that were not obvious at first.

Ftnr example, correction of the underarm dart was possible sometimes

121

when there was excess length at the side between bust and waist (lb-5).
The possibilities for this correction were not considered, however,
until several muslin proof fittings had indicated that underarm darts
often needed adjustment. A.know1edge of pattern drafting would also
improve measurement fitting results by providing a broader range of

alteration possibilities for solving complex fitting problems.

B. Skills Required for Pin Fitting

Each step in the pin fitting process required some skill in
handling.

l.‘WOrking;with Pattern Tissue: Pattern tissue itself was dif-
ficult to work with because it tore easily when the individual being
fitted moved. When there were alterations in the tissue, it was
difficult to pin them out or crayon mark the paper without tearing it.

2. Judging_Ease in Pattern Tissue: Because the texture and hand
of pattern tissue do not resemble these qualities in fabric, it was not
(always easy to determine the amount of ease present in the tissue.
Often, too, the shoulders and neckline did not set in the same way that
they did when out out of fabric.

Sometimes if the pattern was slightly tight across the bustline
'the pattern would tend to shift away from the CF or CB mark. Unless
(nae carefully observed this shift, the pattern would.be left with
inadequate bust ease .

3. Judging_Circumference Corrections: Because the pattern tissue

ofdnni shifted away from the CF and CB at the bust and waistlines it was

122

almost impossible to accurately pin fit these circumferences. The waist
circumference was hard to determine because pins at the waist easily
dropped out, especially where there was a sharp waist indentation.

The waist of the pattern tissue could never be tightened the full amount
required because this would tear the tissue.

h. Makinngin FittinguAlterations: Pin fitting alterations were
made by pinning out bulges that represented excess length or width
wherever such wrinkles appeared in the bodice. Careful judgment was
required so that too much fulness would not be taken.out. The tendency
to remove every little wrinkle could result in a smooth-looking but
tightly fitted, uncomfortable garment. If the bodice were too tight
or too short, however, the pattern had to be removed from the figure,
the amount of necessary ease estimated and added, then the pattern was
repinned on the figure to complete the fitting.

5. Transferringfwedges and Overlaps: Correct transfer of pin
fitting alterations required some knowledge of flat pattern making.
Whenever a wedge was pinned out and tapered off to nothing in the middle
of a pattern piece, that pattern section required slaShing to another
edge so that the ease taken from the area would be transferred to
another area (and the pattern would then lie flat). 'When the pattern
was slashed from a wedge, it spread so that more ease was allowed in
another part of the pattern (12-1). This extra ease might be needed
in another part of the pattern piece, but sometimes it was difficult

to decide where it should be transferred and whether the entire amount

123

should be transferred to one place or whether it should be divided

between more than one area.

C. Conclusion

Although caution needed to be exercised in many measurement
fitting steps, and knowledge of pattern construction improved its
results, measurement fitting, on the whole, required less skill than
pin fitting. The mechanical nature of measurement fitting called for
less judgment than pin fitting required. The final transference of
wedges made at a pin fitting required greater knowledge of pattern
construction than did the mechanical translation of measurements into

alterations.

III. TIME REQUIRED BY EACH FITTING METHOD

.A. Measurement Fitting

l. Taking_Body Measurements: Taking a complete set of body
Ineasurements (figure 3, page 11) above the waist (including arm
Ineasurements) required about a half hour. These body measurements would
'be correct fer the figure until it changed weight, therefore this basic
set of measurements could be used for measurement fitting many patterns.

2. Pressing and Measuring the Pattern: Each corr83ponding pattern
Ineasurement also took less than a half hour. Each new pattern would
have to be measured this way. A.Specia1 style feature, such as a

smoothly fitted Empire waist would require additional measurements to

12h

fit this area accurately. If a pattern had unusual details its
measurement would be more difficult, eSpecially if there was extra
fulness gathered or eased into the front or back. This type of detail
would make it difficult to determine the correctness of the vertical
or horizontal ease allowance. It would be impossible to determine
the correctness of vertical ease allowance in a bodice with a cowl
or sc00ped neckline, since there would be no way to determine the depth
of the neckline and.its relationship to the neckbase.

3. MakinguAlterations: The most time-consuming part of measure-
ment fitting is in comparing body and pattern measurements, adding
ease allowances, then translating the differences into alterations.
This took about an hour for each bodice pattern. The greater the number

of basic pattern pieces, the greater the time spent in alteration.

B. Pin Fitting

l. Pressinguand.Pinninggthe Pattern: Preparatory pressing, and
pinning the pattern seams and darts together took about five to ten
minutes.

2. Pin FittinggProcess: Pin fitting the basic bodice took about
a.half hour (A more involved design would require more time).

3. MakinguAlterations: The process of transferring pattern
alterations would take about fifteen.minutes to an hour for a complete
jpattern, although the basic bodice, with an average amount of corrections,

took about a half hour.

125

C. Conclusions

The initial measurement fitting, which included taking body
measurements, required less than two hours. Once body measurements
were taken, however, this time would be reduced to an hour and a half.
Pin fitting each bodice took less than an hour and a half. All of this
process would be repeated each time a pattern was pin fitted. I

Although the initial measurement fitting would be more time-
consuming than.pin fitting, after that, measurement fitting would re-
quire approximately the same amount of time as pin fitting.

IV. HOW EACH METHOD COULD BE USED TO FIT
DIFFERENT FIGURE VARIATIONS

A. Figure Variations that Can Be Fitted by Measurements

Full Bustline: Alterations for the full bustline were often
successful because the entire bust circumference could.be measured.
Unless the figure required an unusual amount of ease, standard ease allow-
ances could be used on the average figure with a full bustline (lS-h).

waist Circumference: ‘Waist circumference could be more accurately
measured than pin fitted.because the fragile pattern tissue did not
permit the waist to be fitted as tightly as necessary (1h-3).

Other Circumferences: Arm girth, elbow, waist, hip circumference

 

and other body circumferences could be more successfully measured than
pin fitted, because the fragile pattern tissue did not always permit

accurate pin fitting.

126

Length Below Bust (or Scye): Front and back length could be
increased or decreased through measurements if the figure had no
balance problem--that is, if the figure required an equal increase or

decrease in the length of the front and back (16-3).

B. Figure Variations that Can Be Pin Fitted

All Figure Variations: Theoretically, every figure variation
can.be fitted by the pin fitting method. The direct relationship
between figure and pattern can be seen but experience is needed to

analyze the appearance of the pattern on the figure and to determine

how corrections can be made.

C. Figure Variations that Cannot Be Fitted bngeasurements

Very Fleshy Figure: Extremely rounded fleshy areas between body
measurement lines (e.g., between bust and waist) require greater than
normal ease allowances. This type of figure needs more allowance for
expansion than a large figure with.proportions that are closer to the
average (18-1).

Shoulder Length and SlOp_: The shoulder tip was difficult to
Ilocate because it could not be seen in relationship with the armhole
Iline when measuring. nAlthough‘bone structure was used as a guide in
Ilocating this point, it was difficult to observe whether the shoulder
Itlne would look well when placed at the exact landmark point or if its
gihacement would need to be shifted to create the illusion of better

prsture (lh-l), (or different flesh distribution) in this area.

127

Very Slender Figure: Though the garment for this figure could
not appear too large, the illusion of a fuller figure would improve
the wearer's appearance. Therefore, a more than normal amount of ease
was needed. This could not be obtained by measurements, for there was
no way of knowing exactly how the rounded body contours would distribute
ease throughout the bodice. In pin fitting, the fulness of the tissue
could be observed, but in measurement fitting either the extra ease
estimated made the garment appear too large or no extra ease was added
and the figure simply looked thin (lip-2).

Any Variation in Upper _Back Contour: Upper back variations,
such as prominent shoulder blades or very sloping shoulders that upset
the balance of the scye level of the bodice, could not be fitted by
measurements. Although the excess (or inadequate) width might have
shown up in measurements (l2-l), there was no way. of knowing whether
the ease was required in only one area near the GB or along the side
near the armhole from shoulder to waist. _

Most Variations Which Upset Balance: In 18-2 the upper back of
the figure was very full, compared to the upper front. This character-
istic was observed, but measurements did not indicate that length or
width should be increased above the scye. Instead, measurements indi-
cated that a length increase was needed below the scye. This measure-
ment correction did lengthen the lower back, but the upper area,

without the additional length it required still raised the CB grain

above the scye level.

128

Necklines: Neck depth and length were impossible to determine
with the measurements available. This is a point which can usually be
corrected in fabric, though, as long as sufficient shoulder seam
allowance is provided to be let out if the neck is large.

Armhole Lines: The curve of the armhole line was frequently

 

adjusted because putting the sleeve into the bodice usually caused the
armhole to hang differently. Armhole lines were comparatively easy
to curve in or to extend in the muslin proof when enough seam allowance

was provided .

Hollows Caused by Unusual Bone Structure (or Flesh Distribution):

See pin fitting discussion below.

D. Figure Variations that Can Not Be Pin Fitted

Bust, Waist,_Girth and Elbow Circumferences: Although theo-
retically any figure variation can be pin fitted successfully, the
weakness of pattern tissue made accurate correction of these circum-
f erences difficult.

Neck and Shoulder Variations: Sometimes when there were many
corrections in the upper front area, the neck and shoulder lines did
not lie flat and could not be perfected until the muslin fitting.
Often, too, the draping quality of fabrics change the position of the
neck and shoulder lines.

Hollows Caused by Unusual Bone Structure ‘(or Flesh Distribution):
One figure (lb-3) had a prominent shoulder bone which formed a hollow

at the midpoint of each shoulder. It was difficult to determine how

129

closely this should be fitted to obtain a smooth effect. If too closely
fitted, the hollow would become even more obvious. This problem was

best fitted in fabric, where its effect could be observed and changed

if necessary.

Armhole Lines: See measurement fitting discussion above.

 

E. Other Factors Affecting the Use of Measurement Fitting

1. Measurement fitting can be done by one person, after another
person has carefully measured the individual to be fitted. This method
could, therefore, be used in a home sewing situation more easily than
pin fitting.

2. It would be eSpecially useful for the woman who sews at home,
'who is familiar with her own figure and the figures of a few others
with whom she might work. If some adjustment were necessary after the
first garment fitting, these changes could be noted and if similar
alterations were indicated in the next pattern.used, these could be made
immediately.

3. It might not be quite as successful for the teacher, however,
:for these factors must be considered in her fittings: (a) her time is
Itimdted and this method is initially time-consuming; (b) nearly perfect
:results are needed.after the first fitting; results of this study show
'that.the measurement fitted muslin.proofs needed more corrections than
there required in the pin fitted proofs; and (c) many of the figure

'vaurhations a teacher encounters could not be solved by measurement

fitting.

 

 

 

130

F. Other Factors Affecting_the Use of Pin Fitting

1. Pin fitting cannot be done alone; it requires a second person
who can carry out fitting procedures. Each time a new pattern is used
two peOple are needed to complete the pin fitting process.

2. Pin fitting might be eSpecially useful for teachers or home
seamstresses with more than average knowledge of pattern structure.
When skillfully done, pin fitted patterns require few, if any important
adjustments in fabric, thus involve less handling of fabric (important
if fabric is delicate or easily marred).

3. It is difficult to pin fit a pattern that is too small in size
because the slashes and inserts make it difficult to estimate ease and

to fit the pattern accurately (18-5).

G. Conclusion

Each method showed some individual merit, but pin fitting results
indicated that this was the more successful fitting method.

The best features of both methods might be combined to achieve
the most accurate fitting. Circumference measurements could be taken
at bust, waist, hips, elbow and other points (depending on the style
of the pattern) to supplement the pin fitting. These measurements
could be used to perfect the pattern circumference alterations at
'these lines. This might be most effectively used by teachers or seam-
stresses who have minimum time for studying individual figures yet

:require very accurate fitting results.

131

V. SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER STUDY

work on this study brought out several possibilities for further
study in the area of fitting. They include: (a) Creating designs that
could be fitted easily on problem figures; (b) Comparison of pin
fitting to fitting methods currently advocated by pattern companies.
Charts of simplified pin fitting procedures could be worked out in
connection with this study-—for possible use in the educational program
of a pattern company; (c) Study of different alteration possibilities
for the same figure fault; (d) Study to compare pin fitting and measure-
ment fitting of skirts; (e) Study of sleeve and armhole fitting
problems. The causes of these fitting problems lie in the improper
fit of shoulder blades or bust area. The study could be based on the

influence of fitting alterations in these areas.

 

TABLE IV
FITTING FAULT-S IN MUSLIM PROOFS

l2-
1 2 3 A 5 l 2

 

FRONT

.Armhole to bustpoint: bulge X g
§§

i2?

Armhole to bust side: excess (hollow)...........

Bust line: tight................................
Bust line: loose................................ ><
Neck to armhole: diagonal fold.................. C)

Side: chest to bust too wide.................... C3><
Side: shoulder to waist too wide................
Side seam: too wide.............................
. Underarm dart: too short........................ €E§> C)
10. Underarm dart: too high.........................
11. Underarm dart: too low..........................
12. Underarm dart: puffy............................ ><
13. waist dart: too lone............................
1k. waist: too wide (atédart)....................... >QE§ §8$><
15. waist: too narrow (at dart).....................

O O

\ooo-q omrwrop

 

 

BACK
18. Armhole to side back: diagonal bulge............ (3E3C) E§S§
17. Armhole to upper side back: horizontal bulge....()
18. Mid—back: tight.................................
19. Neck dart (new): puffy...........................
20. Side back: too wide.............................
21. Shoulder dart: puffy............................

22. Shoulder dart to waist dart tip: wide........... C) ><
23. Upper back: tight............................... C)
2h. waist: too wide (at dart)....................... C)
25. waist dart: excess ease above tip...............
26. waist dart: sides need shaping..................
27. waist dart: too far from CB.....................
28. waist dart tip: puffy........................... >(

‘ CD ><'
>< 1:)

><

 

OTHER FAULTS
29. Armhole: curve needs deepening.................. CDCDCD
30. Armhole: too high (binds).......................
31. Armhole: too low (draws)........................ (3C)
32. Armhole: too small (bulges).....................
33. Bedice length: too long.........................§§' CDC)
3h. Bodice length: too short........................ §§
3S. Neckline: back loose............................
36. Neckline: front loose...........................
37. Neckline: too high and narrow................... ><CD
38. Neckline: too low and wide...................... C)

39. Shoulder line: position needs shifting..........
hO. Shoulder line: too long......................... C)

hl. Shoulder line: too short........................ ><

 

§3f3> C)

Xo

it

 

 

E§¥XI CE?
(3 ><' CD><
Egg (:3 C) §§
l><

é

 

E§
><

8

 

 

 

 

CiPin and measurement fitted.
X Pin fitted .
()Measurement fitted.

Z€I

 

 

133

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Glenn, Maryalice Kelly, A Survey of the Fitting Problems of Fifty-Three

College Girls Using Commercial Patterns in Beginning Clothing
Construction Classes.

Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State
College, 1953.

Hillhouse, Marion S. and Evelyn A. Mansfield, Dress DesignL Draping
and Flat Pattern Makiug, (New York:
19133).

Houghton Mifflin Company,

Mansfield, Evelyn A. , Clothing Construction, (New York:

Houghton
Mifflin Company, 1953).

O' Brien, Ruth and William C. Shelton, Women‘s Measurements for Garment
and Pattern Construction (Washington, D. C.: U. S. Department}?
Agriculture, Bureau of Home Economics, Miscellaneous Publication
No. usu, 19u1).

How 30 Answer Questions __A_bout the New Body Measuregent Standard for
Patterrs Effective June 13', 195:6.

 

APPENDIX A

FORMS AND MEASUREMENTS USED IN
MEASUREMENT FITTING

1. MEASUREMENTS OF VOGUE PATTERN 8937*

HORIZONTAL

1. Neckbase front
2 . back
Total
3. Shoulder Total
1;. Shoulder tip-tip back
5. Narrowest part front
6. back
7. Scye line front
8. back
Total
9. Bust front
10. back
Total
11. Bust-45F to bust point
12. Waist front
13 . back
Total

 

VERTICAL - FRONT

11;. CF neckbase to CF bust
15. CF bust to CF waist
CF Total
16. Midshoulder to bust point
17 . Bust point‘to waist side
Side Total
18. Edge shoulder to bust
19. Bust side to waist
Total
20. Underarm to waist

VERTICAL - BACK

2].. CB neckbase to bust CB
22. GB bust to CB waist
- CB Total
2 3. Midshoulder to bust
21;. Bust side to waist side
Side Total
25. Shoulder edge to bust
26. Bust side to waist
Total

 

13h

 

 

SIZES
12 lflf 16"' 18'
u“ u 8.1/14 u-3/8
3 3-1/8 3-l/h 3-1/u
7 7-1/8 7-1/2 7-5/8
5-1/8 S-l/h 5-3/8 5-1/2
15-1/2 16 16-1/8 16-3/8
1h-S/8 1h-7/8 15-1/2 16-1/8
lu-a/u 15-3/8 15-7/8 16-1/8
19-1/8 20 21-1/u 22-1/8
17-1/2 - 18-3/u 19-3/h 20-5/8
36-5/8 38-3/u hl u2-3/h
19-1/2 20-l/h 21-1/2 22-1/2
17-1/8 18-1/8 19-1/8 20
36-5/8 38-3/8 hO-S/ 8 82 -1/2
3-1/2 3-3/u u u
13-5/8 1h 15 16
11-5/8 12-1/u 13-1/2 1h-l/h
25-1/u 26-1/h 28-1/2 30-1/u
6-5/8 6-3/1; 7 ‘ 7-1/8
8-3/8 8-3/8 8-1/2 8-5/8
15 15 -l/8 15 -l/ 2 15 -3 /h
8-1/2 8-3/h 9-1/8 9-3/8
8-1/2 8-5/8 8-3/h 8-7/8
17 17 -3/8 17-7/8 18 -1/u
7-5/8 7-7/8 8-1/8 7-3/ 8
7-7/8 8-1/8 8—1/8 9-3/8
15-5/8 16 16-3/8 16-3/h
7-7/8 8 8-1/8 8
10-1/8 10-3/8 10-5/8 10-7/8
6-3/8 6-3/8 6-3/8 6-1/2
16-1/2 16 -3/1 17 17 -3/ 8
10 10-1/u 10 1/2 10-5/8
6-1/2 6-1/2 6-5/8 6-1/2
16-1/2 16-3/8 17 -1/8 17-1/8
9 8 8a/u 84/2
6-1/2 7-5/8 7-3/h 8-3/8
15-1/2 15-5/8 16 16-7/8

*These pattern measurements have corresponding body measurements

Tat-All figures are in inches

1. Measurements of Vogue Pattern 8937 - Continued

ARMS-HORIZONTAL

27. Cap width
28.Gfl%h

29. Elbow bent

30. Sleeve lower edge (pattern)
31. wrist

.Mflfi3-VERTICAL

32. Overarm shoulder-elbow
33. " elbow-lower edge (sleeve)
3h. " elbow-wrist

Sleeve length Total
35. Underarm armpit-elbow

36 . " elbow-wrist (lower
edge)
Total
37. Sleeve cap front
38. back
Total
39. Armhole front
hO back
Total

135

 

 

SIZES -

12 1h 16* 18

7-1/1; 7-3/8 7-3/h 8
12 -7/8 13 -3/ 8 111 1h-1/2
10-7/8 11-1/‘u 11-3/h 12-1/8
9-1/8 9-3/8 9-3/h 10-1/8
18 lh-S/ 8 15-3/8 15 -5/ 8
5-5/8 5-5/ 8 5-1/2 5-7/8
19-5/8 20-1/1; 20-7/8 21-1/2
7-3/1: 8-1/ 8 8-5/8 8-5/ 8
5-3/8 5-5/ 8 5-1/2 5-7/ 8
13 -1/2 13 -3/8 lb -1/ 8 1u-1/2
9-1/8 9-1/2 10 lo-l/t
9-3/8 9-3/u 10 10-1/2
18-1/2 19-1/u 20 20-3/1;
7-7/ 8 8-l/h 8-5/8 8-1/2
8-1/2 8-3/h 9-1/8 9-1/2

16-3/8 17 17-3/8 18

136

2. MINIMUM EASE ALLOWANCES

Horizontal

1. Shoulder tip to tip back............................l/h"
2. Narrowest part of front.............................l"

3. Narrowest part of back..............................1-l/2"
he BuStline frontooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooool’l/Z"
So BuStline baCkooooooooooooooococo...oooooooooooooooool'l/Z"
6o waiSt frontage...oooooooooooooooooocoooooooooooooooool/h"
70 Waist baCkooooooooooocooooooooooooooooooooooooo0000.1/n

Vertical - Front

8. CF neckbase to CF bust..............................l/h"i

9. CF bust to CF waist.................................3/h"+
CF Total.................................1"i

lO. Midshoulder to bustpoint............................l/h"i

11. Bust point to waist side............................3/hn+
Side Tote-10.0...O...000......OOOOOOOOOOOOOOln-J:

12. Edge of shoulder to bust............................1/h"i

13. Bust side to waist..................................3/h"+
Total (near side seam).....................l"i

Vertical - Back

1h. CB neckbase to waist.......w........................l"
ls. HidShOUlder to bUStoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooOol/ "
16. Bust side to waist side.............................3/h"
Side Total-00.00.000.000.00.00.00.00000000001"
17. Shoulder edge to bust...............................1/h"
18. Bust side to waist..................................3/hn
Total (near side seam).....................l"

Arms - Horizontal

19. Cap widul.......OOOOOOOOO......OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOl-l/Z"
200 GirmOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO.....OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOZu

21. Elbow (bent)00000000000000.0000.ooooooooooooooooooooZ"

Sleeve Cap Ease

22. FrontOOOCDOOOOOOOOOOO...0000............OOOOOOOOOOOOB/LL"

23. BaCkOOOOOOOOCOCOOOOOOOOO0.00.0.0...0.000000000000000B/u"

 

 

 

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q o . n . s o u . n . b A w a
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I n u w I . I t O A s - fl
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2 . . . a . . i s . . o . . a n _ h
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v t . . u . . . 2 . .
. , . - _ p n . . 1 . t y a .
e p . . 1 o . . .. n V . o . w . d .
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. I w . . . . . . . . w . . w
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‘ . . , . . d o A . . . . . _-
, . . _ . , s . o o . . . w A 7
. . . i . . o .

 

 

 

 

 

 

137

3. FIGURE CHARACTERISTICS

Bone Structure

Short medium long

fine medium heavy
prominent joints (shoulder bone, elbow)
prominent shoulder wings

prominent chest bones

Posture

Flesh

normal

high - average - low bust

very straight - flat back

leans back - causes CB hollow above waist - forward abdomen

forward head - from neck - protruding absomen

forward shoulders - back rounded at CB high back rounded over
shoulder wings - flesh or bony

Distribution

slight - medium - full (general)
small - medium - full bust
alongside bust front - flat or fleshy
back - flat or fleshy
midriff - front fleshy or slim
back padding below bustline side or back
shoulders - pad over shoulder bone
prominent bony shoulder bone
shoulder line - smooth or bony
arms - slim - medium-full

h . FINAL EVALUATION

 

 

138

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENT PIN
_;_ .__ FITTING- FITTING
FRONT
l. Neckline fit
2. Shoulder seam length
3. Armhole placement (curve correctneSs)
h. Chest fullness
5. Bust width at side
bust point
6. waist width at dart
side
7. Armhole size: low
high
loose
tight
8. Bust level
9. Dart effectiveness: underarm
waist
10. Vertical ease CF
side front
underarm
11. Diagonal wrinkles: bust - armhole
- side seam
- neck (locate)
- center waist
armhole - neck
Sick “
12. Neckline fit
13. Armhole placement (curve correctness)
1h. Upper back fullness
15. Bust width at dart point
side
16. waist width at dart
side
17. Armhole size: Low
high
loose
tight
18. Bust level
19. Dart effectiveness: shoulder
waist
20. Vertical ease CB
side back
21. Diagonal wrinkles: armhole across back (locate)
SLEEVE ‘—
22. Width at girth

23.
2h.

25.

elbow
lower edge
Ease front cap
back cap
Length cap to girth
cap to elbow
elvow to lower edge
Darted fullness above or below elbow

 

OTHER CORRECTIONS

 

op ottom half or bodice

APPENDIX B '

MEASUREMENT FITTING PROCEDURES FOR
TWELVE TYPICAL FIGURES

 

 

 

139

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURE 12-1

it

Since all bodice fronts
and backs must coincide at the
shoulder seam, any discrepancies
between the pattern and body
measurements at the shoulder
were taken care of first.

 

 

 

 

The simplest way to correct
inadequate shoulder length was
to extend the armhole edge of
the shoulder the necessary
amount on both front and back.

 

 

 

 

The excess width at chest
level was reduced by curving in
the armhole line. Only part of

FIGURE 5 :he reduction could be made at

hlS p01nt, because very large

reductions in one area usually

distorted pattern shape. The remainder of the reduction at chest level

was made in a vertical wedge (2M front). The same wedge also eliminated
part of excess bust ease.

 

If the figure had a larger bust, all excess bust width could have
been eliminated in the side wedge (3M front). The vertical armhole to
waist wedge (3M front), however, reduced bust circumference and elimi-
nated ease where this figure was especially slim; again, a large pattern
change in this side area would'have distorted pattern shape.

Although there was excess length at CF and side seam, measurements
from mid-shoulder to waist required no change. This correction was made
above the waist (hM front). An almost-equal amount was removed between
CF and the waist dart (because exactly the same allowance was generally
required between these two points). The overlap increased sharply to
one inch near the side seam. The remainder of Side excess was allowed

to remain since armhole movement uses more than the average amount of
ease allowed.

The bodice back required additional width at a point four inches
below'neckbase, at scye level, and at the waist. Although the amount of
ease needed below the neckbase differed from ease needs in the other two
areas, the side back was slashed and spread apart evenly from shoulder
to waist (6M back). The small additional ease required below the neck-
base was added at the armhole curve. Additional shoulder length result-
ing from the corrections was absorbed into shoulder seam ease (since
the subject had prominent back shoulder bones she could use more ease).

lhO

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURE 12 -2

 

 

Shoulder length was added
first. In front the entire
addition was made by lengthen-
ing the armhole edge of the
shoulder. Excess chest and
bust width were eliminated in
a diagonal overlap (2M front).
This also helped remove one
inch of excess side length
above the bust.

 

 

 

 

Side length was further
reduced at bust level by
deepening and lengthening the
underarm dart. The remainder
FIGURE 6 of excess bodice length was

eliminated in an even hori-
zontal wedge (5M front). (Although there was no unnecessary length at

CF, its length was decreased slightly to keep bust and CF lengths equal.)
The loose waist was narrowed by deepening the waist dart (hM front).

 

The upper back was narrow, with the greatest addition needed across
the upper back between the shoulder tips, decreasing to nothing below
the scye line. A vertical Spread (8M back) from shoulder to the waist
dart tip increased ease in this area. The spread was made at the side
between the Shoulder dart and armhole because the figure's CB area was
flat, but bones were prominent at the side back. The shoulder end of
the slash (8M back) increased shoulder length the remainder of the
amount required to match increased front shoulder length.

Vertical back measurements indicated the bodice was too long above
and below the scye. The flatness of the subject‘s back and a notice-
able hollow at the CB waist caused this excess. It was eliminated in
1mm horizontal overlaps (9M, 10M back). The full amount of upper back
excess could not be removed there because the large amount would have

shortened the armhole too much. Instead, a greater amount was taken
out of the lower edge.

lhl

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURE 12-h

 

 

 

Shoulder length was again
inadequate. Since a large
addition was needed, this cor-
rection was divided among three
different areas in front and
back. The armhole and neck
edges were extended (curving up
slightly at the neck so it
would retain its original
length). A vertical slash and
spread (hM front) from shoulder
to waist provided the remainder
of the shoulder increase. Over-
lapping at chest, bust and waist

FIGURE 7 levels eliminated excess width
in these areas. (wedge hM
front was not placed over the bust because this figure had slender bone
structure, but a full bust line.)

 

 

 

 

The diagonal armhole wedge (1M front) eliminated side front length
as well as width. If more side front length had been removed in the
'wedge (5M front) above the waist, the front and back side seams would
not have been the same length. Therefore, a large amount was eliminated
from.the CF, but side seam length was unchanged. ‘

'Underarm dart depth was decreased partly because the narrower dart
tended to puff less on this figure (flat at side front), and partly to
keep the vertical overlap (14M front) equal from bust to waist.

‘Upper back width was increased through a vertical spread (8M back),
shoulder to waist. This added ease directly below a well-developed
Shoulder muscle near the neck edge. Side length and width above the
scye were reduced through a diagonal armhole wedge (9M back). Length
was added to CB and side back by a horizontal spread (11M back) above
the waist.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i ‘98

a, I J 7

. l “’v
z+g +5 ‘

1" _y‘ .34 ’9‘, ‘ 4"

BACK FRONT

FIGURE 8

1N2

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURE 12-5

Shoulder seam length
was reduced by curving the
front and back armholes
deeper (1M front). This arm-
hole correction extended past
the chest area to eliminate
some excess there also.
A diagonal overlap (2M front)
reduced excess bust width
without changing the width
of the area above bust level.
Since the bodice front was
too long, the diagonal part
of the same wedge helped
shorten the bodice above the
bust level. A horizontal

wedge (3M front) eliminated the remainder of excess bodice length.
(Very often even though length measurements differed, a compromise
adjustment was made between the greatest and smallest amount of cor-

rection indicated.)

The CB area needed more length and width.

Since this figure had

forward-set head and shoulders, the upper back area (8M back) near CB

(6M back) was spread.

Side back was shortened to coincide with a

similar front correction.(excess length was evident at the side back

only).

lb3

MEASUREMENT FITTING
*0/5" 'Y/I PROCEDURES 117—1

The front shoulder seam
was lengthened by extending
the armhole and neck edges.
(This also shortened the neck-
line. The back shoulder was
lengthened within the pattern
as part of a vertical slash
(10M), since this round-
shouldered figure needed
additional width over the
shoulder blades.

 

 

't

 

 

 

-I
fl

 

 

 

 

 

‘3' ‘55 ‘9?

BACK

 

Excess chest and bust
width were then removed by a
FIGURE 9 vertical wedge (5M front).
The remainder of chest excess
was taken off by curving the armhole in at chest level. Extra bodice
length created a problem because it required adjustments above as well
as below bust level, but with no CF changes above bust. The length
alteration above the bust was a horizontal wedge tapering off at CF (3M).
.An overlap from side seam to bust point (5M) eliminated additional side
length and reduced underarm dart depth (6M). Since the side of the
figure was quite flat, this underarm dart reduction was desirable. The
third length reduction was a horizontal overlap (7M) across the entire
front. Front length reduction below bust (7M) would have been greater,
but unequal back length reductions limited the amount that could be
taken out of the front side seam, and still keep the front and back side
seams matching.

Although the measurements taken four inches below the back neck-
'base indicated that a CB reduction was needed, no adjustment was
:made because of the figure‘s apparent fulness at this level. A verti-
cal spread (10M back) increased shoulder length and width directly below
the shoulder. (This "direct contradiction" of measurements seldom
(occurred. Unless the figure had very outstanding characteristics which
(could have been overlooked by measurements or the measurement itself
seemed to be wrong.) The same slash (10M) overlapped above the scye
and reduced lower back width. Although this overlap narrowed the waist,
'Uhe waist dart was released the same amount to restore the original
tnaist circumference. A diagonal wedge (11M back), removed more width
art scye level, and also transferred ease from the armhole to the waist
<dart point. Transference of this wedge restored the waist dart's
(iriginal depth. A horizontal overlap (12M) reduced back length below
scye level.

1 . -- ., a
A ,_*_2_i-_.--.._. ..
“will. . . . -4 , ._ _

 

1th
I‘EASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURES 111-3
")5 Excess shoulder length

was reduced by drawing the
front and back shoulder seams
in at the armhole edges.
"if A continuation of this inward
curve on the front armhole
line (1M front) also narrowed
chest width. The most obvious
fault indicated by measurements
was the inadequate bust circum-
-V, ference. The alteration which
increased bust fulness was
combined with a wedge reducing
side length (2M). The over-
FIGURE 10 lapping at the armhole shifted
ease from the armhole to bust
point. (Both of these problems quite commonly occur in figures with
full bustlines.)

  
 

 

 

 

 

 

The underarm dart was lowered because a very full bust absorbs a
large amount of ease above the bustline. A lower underarm dart would
allow for ease needed above the bust, directing ease to the level at
which it was needed most.

More than the normal amount of length was allowed even after hori-
zontal corrections 13M and 5M front were made because the very full bust
requires more length (as well as width) than the normal figure.

Horizontal back measurements which called for a decrease in neck
ciixnuuference, an increase in upper and lower back width, and a decrease
in.vnrist.circumference, presented a problem which required three
separate vertical adjustments. Two of the alterations were made by
slashing from the neckline to the waistdart (8M, 9M) . This shortened
the neckline, but spread to widen the area above the scye line. The
waist was then reduced by deepening the waist dart.

The horizontal wedge reducing bodice length was placed above the
scye line to coincide with the level at which front length was reduced.

 

 

185

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURES 16-1

 

-g' This very erect figure
with a full bustline required
a large increase in bust
measurement, yet a decrease in

** chest width. Therefore, the
armhole was curved in, and a
diagonal wedge from armhole to
waist dart point was overlapped
to increase bust width.

~07: .. _w The underarm dart was
lowered, since measurements
FRONT indicated that the bust level
should be lowered.

 

 

 

 

FIGURE 11
Excess front length was

removed in a horizontal wedge
from CF to side seam. All back measurements indicated that length and
width reductions were needed. Differences in the size of the reduction
created a problem. To eliminate approximately one and one-half inches
below the scye but only three-fourths of an inch below the back neck-
base required two separate alterations. One, a wedge tapering from a
large waistline overlap to almost nothing at the neck (hM). The second
‘was a side wedge (5M) from the armhole to waist, eliminating side width
without any further waist reduction. (Combining reductions in several
areas makes it impossible to reduce the exact anount required in each
particular area.)

Measurements indicated that the CB required a greater length
:reduction than side front above the scye. (Back side seam was reduced
the same amount as the front side seam.) Below the scye, the CB
required less length reduction than the side seam. When several
Imeasurements on the same line (e.g., length below scye) differed so a
luiiform decrease (or increase) could not be made, extra ease was allowed
so that alteration would be simplified.

186

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURES 16-b

 

*5 The front and back shoulder
edges were brought in to decrease
shoulder length. This revision
was continued along the front
armhole, deepening its curve to

reduce chest width.

 

 

A small amount of excess
width and length were present
between the armhole and bust.
This, plus the fact that the
figure had a rather full bust-
line, resulted in a wedge over-
lapped at the armhole (3M front),
FIGURE 12 and spread to increase waist
dart depth, thus throwing more
ease toward the bust point.

 

 

 

 

~95” ~39 4.

BACK

 

The remainder of excess front length was eliminated in an even
horizontal overlap above the waist (RM front).

Inadequate width across the back and excess waist length were
corrected by a vertical slash (6M) spread between the shoulder and waist
dart points. This alteration increased shoulder dart depth; therefore
the shoulder dart was lengthened to avoid a puff at its tip. The waist
measurement was reduced by drawing the waist dart deeper.

Excess back length was taken up by an even horizontal overlap (7M).
llnmlgh the center of the side back was one-quarter inch longer than the
CB cur'the side seam, an even alteration was made across the entire back.
CPhe figure's full lower back absorbed the extra ease.)

 

lymfivrnzvvrnzzrrfir tr,
)
I

 

 

 

 

FIGURE 13

 

 

 

 

 

 

lb?

MEASUREMENT FITTING
PROCEDURES 18-1

Since this bodice needed

a large shoulder increase, the
addition was divided among three
areas in front (1M) and between
two in back. Both armhole and
neck edges were extended, and a
vertical slash (3M) was spread
for the remaining increase.

The vertical slash was over-
lapped across the chest and over
the bust (3M front). To complete
chest level reductions the upper
armhole was curved in. Exten-
sion of the vertical overlap
along the waist dart edge

narrowed the waist. A deep horizontal overlap above the waist reduced

excess bodice length (NM front).

Although the front seemed longer near

the side seam than at the center, the smaller amount (indicated by side
seam length) was lapped out across the entire front. This gave the
front more than the normal amount of vertical ease.

There was too much ease below the scye, and a small amount of
excess in the upper back and at the waist. To correct these, a vertical
slash was spread at the shoulder, then overlapped from the upper back
to waist (6M back). To eliminate more width below scye, and to decrease
side back length and width, a diagonal armhole wedge (8M) was introduced.
The side seam was placed further back to reduce the waist line (10M).
Two horizontal wedges above the waist (9M) shortened the back of the

bodice.

1148

MEASUREMENT FITTING
-H.- -y, PROCEDURES 18-2

 

'11 The front neckline was too
long, but the shoulder seam was
not long enough. These alter-

} ations were combined at the

_ neck edge, where the neck curve

* was shortened and the shoulder

seam lengthened. Shoulder

length was further increased at
the armhole edge.

 

 

 

 

2+”; +13 0% "’2 on: -g, ( Since the chist and waist
but not the bust were too
BACK FRONT wide, chest width was eliminated
FIGURE 1h at the armhole edge. The waist
was narrowed by deepening the
waist dart (UM front). Excess CF length was eliminated in an overlap
(3M front). Side length was taken out in a diagonal wedge (2M front)
that overlapped above the bust point and spread across the bust point.

The one-half inch needed on the back shoulder was divided between
armhole edge and shoulder dart, which was extended (5M). Width and
length below scye were removed in an angular overlap (7M back). A large
amount of length was added at CB and waist dart, with no change in side
seam length. This addition was done in two areas--in a horizontal
spread (8M) above the waist and at the lower edge where the remainder
of length was added. Since the additions were so great in the CB and
waist dart, a small amount was added at side seam so the pattern would
not be distorted too greatly. .A corresponding amount was drawn on to
the front side seam. A more than average amount of ease added to the
underarm area is usually not objectionable because body movement in this
area absorbs a great deal of ease.

 

1119

. FEASWWT FITTING
“y“ PROCEDURE 18-b

 

 

 

w, Shoulder length was in-
creased in front and back by
extending the armhole line.
Since there was excess chest

‘ 3’: width, the lower part of the

armhole was curved in. The

remainder of chest width was
removed in an armhole wedge
which spread at the lower
edge to add more bust ease

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘ -a .1 -h’ (RM). The front was too long
H‘ “I ‘ H“ 0‘ at CF and side seam, but too
BACK FRONT short below the bust point.
Therefore, a horizontal slash
FIGURE 15 across the entire front did

not change CF length, in-
creased length across the waist dart,_and overlapped at the side seam
(6M). Additional side front length was removed when the underarm dart
was lengthened (5M).

Back corrections were made mainly on seam and dart edges. Neck
length was reduced slightly by lowering the shoulder line. Upper back
width was increased by extending the armhole edge (8M back), and waist
was reduced by deepening the waist dart (11M). CB length was increased,
but side seam length was decreased at the waist edge (10M).

150

. MEASUREMENT FITTING
Iva-V3” +3]; PROCEDURE 18-5

-; .M, Neck length was increased
(1M front) by extending the
shoulder edge (1M) and lower-
ing the neckbase (2M). Chest

+ +55 and bust width were increased
- y :55 7" q in the same slash that reduced
shoulder length (3M).
The entire front shoulder
{ was raised because measurements
ffi - +*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*% ,4 at the armhole and bust point
"‘5 ”'7 *"s m ,' above bust level indicated
that more length was needed
there. CF to bust level did
not require any adjustments.
Because of the general ful-
ness of this figure a generous
amount of bodice ease was allowed. The bodice was lengthened by hori-
zontal slashes at bust level (5M front) and above the waist (6M). waist
width was increased drawing the waist darts in (7M front).

BACK FRONT

FIGURE 16

The back shoulder line was lowered to reduce length above the back
scye (8M back). This seemed an apprOpriate place to eliminate this
ease, since the front shoulder line had been raised (height differences
could have indicated incorrect original shoulder position). The upper
back was too wide, but the mid-back of the pattern was too narrow
(below scye). The pattern was slashed between shoulder and waist dart
and spread below the scye. The slight increase in upper back width was
eliminated at the armhole edge. The back was lengthened by a horizontal
spread (11M) below the scye line.

 

APPENDIX C

GENERAL FITTING SUGGESTIONS

151

GENERAL FITTING SUGGESTIONS

Avoid increasing or decreasing large amounts in single areas, since
this usually distorts the shape of pattern pieces. Rather, if a
large alteration is necessary divide it between two or more adjacent

areas 0

When adding back shoulder ease, an addition larger than l/8" usually
causes undesirable puffiness bBIOW’the shoulder. It also causes the

should seam to curve slightly forward.

When fitting by measurement it is best to combine as many alterations
as possible to avoid cutting up the pattern into small pieces and

risking the loss of the original design features.

Straight seams (and darts) are always broken by alterations which
increase or decrease their size. Usually if there is no change in
width or length at either end of the seam (or dart) a straight line

connecting each end would become the new seam line.

When increasing or decreasing length at CF;alterations should keep

the section between CF and bust point equal; even though center
measurements may be shorter than side measurements, the center usually
requires the same amount of vertical ease as the bust point. The same
rule applies to the CB--side back area. In both cases there is a
pronounced bulge on each side; the area between the two bulges takes

up the same amount of ease as do the bulging areas.

152

6. Ease adjustments:

(8)

(b)

for the thin figure-2A greater than normal amount of ease gives
the illusion of a fuller figure; however, too much extra ease
must be avoided since a pattern that is too large will simply
add to the thinness of the figure,

for the stout figure-éLarge boned or muscular figures might
require more than the normal amount of ease for movement, but
with smaller bone and muscle structure the more smoothly fitted

pattern (but not tight) will give a slimmer appearance.

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