A Comparison of the Size; and Shapes of Dress Patterns Made by Five Commercial Pattern Companies - Esther Siemen I1 University (J This is to certify that the thesis entitled A Comparison of the sizes and Shapes of Dress Patterns Made by Five Commercial Companies presented by Esther Siemen has been accepted towards fulfihnent of the requirements for m. Date JUl A COMPARISON OF THE SIZES AND SHAPES OF DRESS PATTERNS MADE BY FIVE COMMERCIAL PATTERN COMPANIES By Esther Siemen A THESIS Submitted to the College of Home Economics of Michigan State University of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts 1957 __._$ .7-“ , . V,— .. WWW“ - - \ Esther Siemen \ ABSTRACT 1 Although a standardization of body measurements has been accepted by makers of commercial dress patterns, some home sewers have felt that garments made from the same size patterns from.different pattern companies varied in fit. This study was made as an effort to help them.determdne what these differences are, and to help them.select the patterns best suited to their individual figure types. Basic patterns in size 1h which.were provided by the pattern companies, similar bodices in size 1h, 16 and lh%, and slim.skirts in those sizes were studied. Specific measurements were taken on all the patterns. The patterns were also superimposed one on.the other to come pare the shapes of the various pattern pieces and the slant and curves of darts and seams. The basic size 1h bodices and slim.skirts were reproduced in heavy paper and the seams and darts were Joined. These paper shells gave the writer an Opportunity to observe and compare the patterns in three dimensional forms as they resembled dress forms. To validate the conclusions drawn from.the comparisons of measurements, shapes of pattern pieces and contours, basic dresses were made from.the basic bodices and slim.skirt patterns in sizes IA and 1h%. These dresses were tried on women whose body measurements would indicate that they should wear these pat- tern sizes. ,___, — -- W“ ._- * .Wr__ -_____._..fi.________ , Esther Siemen 2 This study shows that there are significant differ- ences in the measurements, shapes and contours of garments made from.patterns by different pattern companies. These differences are so pronounced in some areas as to create or eliminate alteration problems in comparable patterns from different pattern companies. The average home sewer can have a better fitting garment with less fitting problems by selecting not only the pattern size, but also the pattern brand best suited to her figure type. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This study could not have been accomplished without the enthusiastic interest and cooperation of many individuals. The writer is especially appreciative of the valuable and untiring guidance given by Miss Evelyn A. Mansfield, Associ- ate Professor of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts at Michigan State University, who directed the thesis. She is also grateful for the interest and cooperation of Professor Hazel B. Strahan, Head of the Department of Textiles, Cloth- ing and Related Arts at Michigan State University. Other coOperators in the study were homemakers in DeKalb, Effingham, McHenry, Wabash and Will Counties in Illinois, members of the Home Economics Extension faculty of the University of Illinois, students in Textiles and Clothing at Michigan State University, and the pattern comp panics whose patterns were studied. The writer is indebted to these people for their assistance. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page I. INTRODUC TION O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 1 II. METHODS AND PROCEDURES 0 s e e e s e e e e e e o u III. PRESENTATION OF PATTERN MEASUREMENTS AND COMPARISONS 0F MEASUREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . 13 Diagram of measurements for bodice patterns . . 1n and 19 Measurements of size 1h basic bodice patterns . 15 Comparison of the measurements of size 1h basic bOdIOGG e e e e e e e e e e e e e s e e e e 22 Comparison of size 1h similar bodices with 8120 1h basic bOdicefl e e e e e e e e e e e e 28 Measurements of size 1h similar bodice patternfl o e e e e e e e e e e e e e e e e e 29 Comparison of size 16 similar bodices with .120 1” b0d1¢98 e e o e e o e e e e e e o e 0 3h Measurements of size 16 similar bodice patterns a e e e e e o e e e e e e o e e e o 36 Measurements of size 14 slim.skirt patterns . . hl Comparison of the measurements of size 1h slim.skirts o e e e e o e o e e e e e e e e e ”3 Comparison of size 16 slim.skirts with size 1h 811m.8k1rt8 e o o e e e e e e e o e o e e e o #6 Measurements of size 16 slim skirt patterns . . h8 Comparison of half size patterns with misses patterns 0 o e e e e e e e o e e e e o e e o 50 Measurements of size lhfi similar bodice pattern! 0 e e e e e e e e e e e o e e o e e 53 Comparison of the measurements of size 1h% 58 bOdices o e e e e e e e s e e e e e o s e e Chapter III. (Continued) Comparison of size 1h§ slim.skirts with 8130 1k 811m.8k1rt8 . e e e e e e e e e e e IMeasurements of size Ike slim.skirt patterns Comparison of the measurements of size lhfi Ilim.8k1rt8 o e e e e e e e e e e e e 0 Summary of ease allowances for all patterns . IV. INTERPRETATIONS OF PATTERN MEASUREMENTS AND SHAPES, CONTOURS OF PATTERN SHELLS AND FIT OF GMTS . Q C C O O O O O O O O -. O O O Superimposed size 1h basic bodice patterns . Photographs of size 1h basic dresses . . . . Interpretations of size 1h basic bodices . . Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bustline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Side of body at scye line . . . . . . . . Rib cage e e e e e e e e e e e e e e ‘Waistline e e e e e e e e e e e e e e e e waist lengths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BOdiCO armscyes e e e e e e e e e e e e e BIOOVOI e e e e e e e e e e e e e Superimposed size In slhm skirt patterns . . Interpretations of size 1h slim skirts . . . Page 61; 65 67 70 72 73 76 79 79 81 82 83 85 86 87 88 89 91 93 95 Chapter IV. (Continued) waistline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lengths from waist to hip level . . . . . Slope of side seams . . . . . . . . . . . . Interpretations of size 1h% patterns . . . . . V. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . General characteristics of misses patterns from each company as related to individual figure types eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee General characteristics of half size patterns from.each company as related to individual figuretypes................ VI. SUGGESTIONS FOR FUTURE STUDY . . . . . . . . . . Page 95 95 99 99 101 102 103 108 112 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Today's home sewers have available to them a wide variety of commercial dress patterns. They not only must select the styles best suited to their wants and needs, but alsc.must choose from patterns made by various pattern comp panies in the many sizes that are offered. Although a standardization of body measurements has been accepted by makers of commercial dress patterns, home sewers often find differences in fit of garments made from the same size pat- terns from.different pattern companies. As an effort to help them.determine the patterns best suited to their indi- vidual figure types and thereby cut down on possible altera- tions, this study was made. The purpose of the study is not to compare or Judge the quality of the various patterns, but to determine the types of figures for which each pattern is designed. There are a variety of types of fitting problems for women who wear the same size pattern, because of dif- ferences in bone structure, posture and balance of figure. The variation in builds from.f1eshy to angular also presents a variety of fitting problems. See the chart of measurements on page lOfor the women participating in this study who wear size 11;. Revised body measurement standards for patterns have been approved by the measurement standardscommittee of the pattern industry and became effective June 15, 1956. The standards are for actual body measurements, not garment measurements. Each pattern company provides in its patterns the ease allowance it considers necessary for a comfortable finished garment. Misses and half-size patterns are in- cluded in this study. The revised body measurement standards are as follows: ‘Misses' Sizes: 3g. ' 10 1; 1h 16 18 20 Bust ' 31 32 3h 36 38 no waist 2h 25 26 28 3o 32 Hipl 33 3h 36 38 no ziz 3.14.1.3 15 3/17 16 16 1/1; 16 1/2 16 3/1, 17 Half Sizes: Size 12% 1h% 16% 13% 20% 22% 24% Bust 33 35 37 39 #1 1+3 us Waist 27 29 31 33 35 37 1/2 to ml 37 39 La 1e as in 1:9 3.17.1.2 15 mi 15 1/2 15 3/4 16 16 1/2, 16 1/2 16 3/11 1A level line 7” below center front waist. zBack Waist Length The fit of any one pattern cannot be determined by its measurements alone. The shape of the pattern pieces with the slant and curve of seams and darts also influences the contour of the finished garment. Just as the contours of different size 1h individuals vary, so do the interpretations of these contours and amounts of necessary ease vary on the drawing boards of different pattern designers. This study shows that these differences are significant ammng the various pattern companies, and that each company tends to design for a certain figure type. CHAPTER II METHODS AND PROCEDURES Sizes 1h and 16 were studied in.misses patterns; lhfi in half size patterns. Basic size lu bodice patterns with long sleeves were provided by four of the five dress pattern companies studied. A basic bodice with sleeves was not available from company V, so a commercial pattern with basic darts was used to compare with the basic patterns from.the other companies. The basic patterns included a waist dart and an underarm dart in front, a waist dart and a shoulder dart in back. . In addition to the basic patterns, similar styles in both bodices and slim.skirts from.each company were se- lected from.the pattern books and compared in sizes 1h and 16. All of the skirt patterns except B included two darts front and back. B had one dart front and back. All were three gore skirts with center back seams. The back seams were on grain. Companies A and S provided basic bodice patterns in sizes lhi and similar commercial patterns were selected from companies B, and H. Company V does not make half size patterns. All of these patterns were measured and compared according to the diagrams on pages 1h and 19. A steel square was used for all measurements except curves, for which a flexible plastic ruler was used. Bust points were located at the intersection of the waist darts and the underarm darts. (See la on diagram.) Bust level between bust points was located on grain. In back, the bust line was located as a continuation of the point at which the seam end of the underarm dart met the back side seam. (See lb.) Because there was considerable variation in the underarm.dart positions in the various pat- terns, a second back bust measurement was taken on grain on all patterns at a specific distance from.back neck base. (See lc.) This distance varied in misses and half size pat- terns and was determined by an average of underarm.dart positions on all patterns in the specific size groups. A comparison of bust heights was made on misses patterns by measuring from front neck base to bust level. (See 11.) As all half size patterns with basic darts could not be' obtained with natural necklines, a comparison of bust heights was made on these patterns by measuring from.shoulder at neck edge to bust level. Chest locations were made by measuring 3 inches down from.front neck base and h inches down from.back neck base on all patterns. (See 3a and 3b.) In some instances this was the exact location of the narrowest chest width and in others it was slightly above or below that point. It was felt, however, that a better comparison of chest widths could be made if measurements were taken at the same loca- tion on all patterns. Scye line measurements were taken on the crosswise grain through the bottom point of the armhole and at a right angle to center front and center back. (See ha and ab.) Shoulder slope was determined as the angle between the shoulder line and a vertical line drawn through the neck end of the shoulder seam.and parallel to the center front or back. (See 6a and 6b.) ‘waist lengths were taken on grain from shoulder at neck edge to waist (see 9a and 9d), from neck base to waist (see 9b and 9e), and from.shoulder through armscye at narrow- est chest point to waist. (See 9c and 9f.) An additional measurement was taken in back from.shoulder point at armscye to center back waist as an indication of allowance for stretch. (See 9g.) A measurement was taken on the scye line for width at side of body between lengthwise grain marks which cross front and back armscyes at narrowest chest points. (See 13a and 13b.) The slope from.scye to waist was determined as the angle between side seam and scye line. (See lha and lhb.) In addition to measuring bodice armscye curves on. seam.lines (16a and 16b), the depths of both front and back armscyes were measured on grain from shoulder through armscye at narrowest chest points to scye level. (See 15a and 15b.) Sleeve cap widths were taken at 1 inch and at 3 inches from.top of cap and 1 inch up from.girth (top circumference of sleeve). (See 19a, 19b, and 19c.) The height of the sleeve cap was determined as the distance between the top center cap point and the top edge of the front and back seam lines when they are folded in to the center of the sleeve. (See 20.) The center elbow dart was usedas the elbow position. (See 26.) On sleeves with only two elbow darts, the elbow position was located between the two darts. To determine sleeve lengths, the sleeve was first drawn to its original shape before the pattern maker had made allowances for elbow darts. To do this, the front and back underarm.seams were straightened so that the slope from.girth to elbow was continued from.elbow to wrist. (See Y.) This corrected sleeve was used for length measurements because the slope from.elbow to wrist in the finished pat- tern is controlled by the relationship of wrist size to elbow dart. By removing elbow darts and straightening the slepe, a truer picture of length allowance can be observed. Hip circumferences were taken at 7 inch, 8 l/Z inch and 10 inch levels. The body measurement standard for hips is listed as 7 inches from.the waistline. However, on many figures the fullest hip level is lower than 7 inches. To determine these levels, the distance (7”, 8 l/Z' or 10”) was measured from.center front waist. The distance from that point to the hem.was measured. Then at frequent in- tervals around the skirt, this last center front distance was used from the hem to locate a hip line parallel to the floor. The slepe of side seams was determined by subtracting the width of the pattern at the lO-inch hip level (on grain) from the width at the ham (on grain). The patterns were also superimposed one on.the other to compare the shapes of the various pattern pieces and the slant and curves of seams and darts. These diagrams are shown in one-half full size for the basic 1h bodices and slim.skirts in chapter IV. They are color keyed to identify the different patterns: pattern a, green; pattern B, blue; pattern.M, black; pattern S, yellow; and pattern V, red. The basic size 1h bodices and slim.skirts were pro- duced in heavy paper and the seamm and darts were joined. These paper shells gave the writer an opportunity to observe and compare the patterns in three dimensional form, as the shells resembled dress forms. The slant of seams and darts when Joined-on paper not only show size differences, but also show the position the seam.takes on the body and where the rounded areas are. The paper shells shew some things more definitely than cloth can, such as true shoulder slepe, length and width.held at shoulder blades and the type of figure that the pattern maker visualized. They also make it possible to compare the front to back balances of the indi- vidual patterns and the shapes of the necklines and armscyes. To validate the conclusions drawn from.the compari- sons of measurements, shapes of pattern pieces and contours as seen flat and in three dimension, dresses were made from the basic bodice and the slim skirt patterns in sizes In and 1h}. The dresses were made of Indian head fabric1 and were color keyed in keeping with the diagrams mentioned above. Bodies and sleeves were kept separate so that the sleeves would not influence the Judgment of the fit of the bodice. Small snaps fastened to the armscyes of bodice and sleeves and to waistlines of bodice and skirt made it possible to attach.parts of the garment together during the fitting. A narrow tape the length of the bodice armscye was sewn on the seam.line of the sleeve armscye with the sleeve cap eased to it. Narrow tape was also sewn at the waistlines of bodice and skirt and on the bodice armscyes. The seams were trimmed to the tape at waistlines and armscyes. Snap tape was used to fasten the fronts of the bodices. Zippers were used in the sides of the skirts. The necklines were finished with shaped facings. Lines were drawn on the dresses with textile paint to aid in observing fit. They were placed at front and 1The fabric was washed in an automatic washer and dried in an automatic dryer to insure complete shrinkage before the garments were cut. back chest, scye line, bust line, waist lines, center front, center back, side seams, and the three hip levels. 10 The dresses were tried on women whose body measure- ments would indicate that they should wear these sizes. Their basic body structures ranged from short to tall and slight to heavy. women participating in the study is as follows. Size 1h Subject Height b WOHKfiNQHmQ'flmUOw 5: 51 5i 5! gi 5i 5: 5c 5: 5: 5: 5i 5: 5: 5c 5' 1Back waist Length 1 B/h” 2. 2. 3. 3 1/2* 3 1/2* h" h” h l/Z' Sn 5n 6" 6 1/2" 7e 9e 11' Height 130 120 130 12h 115 13k 120 120 129 120 130 127 128 132 125 lko Bust 3h 1/2 3h l/Z 3h 1/2 3h 3k 3k 1/2 33 3h 3h 3k 3k 1/2 3h 3h 1/2 3h 35 3h Heist 26 26 25 1/2 25 1/2 26 26 26 25 1/2 26 25 3/h. 25 1/2 26 25 1/2 25 1/u 25 Hip no 37 39 36 36 l/h 38 36 1/2 36 no 38 1/2 39 36 1/2 36 37 36 39 A weight-measurement description of the BOWOL. 16 16 16 1/2 16 3/h 16 1/2 16 16 1/2 16 16 16 x/u 16 1/2 16 16 3/h 16 3/1; 16 1/u 16 3/u. 11 Size 1h} Subject Height Weight Bust Waist Hip B.w.L.3 A 5' 130 36 26 39 m 1/2 B 5' 1 1/2' 130 35 28 no 15 1/2 c 5' 1 1/2'I 135 36 3o . 39 15 1/2 D 55 2" 12h 31+ 28 39 15 1/6 E 5' 2* 128 36 28 1/2 37 15 F 55 3" 132 35 28 1/2 no 15 1/6 A comparison of the measurements of the size In women shows a height variance of 9 l/u inches. The weight variance in this size was 25 pounds. Bust measurements were from.33 to 35 inches, waist measurements from.2h to 26 l/Z inches and hip measurements from 36 to 1+0 inches. The hip measurement was taken at the fullest hip level. There was a maximum.dif- ference of only B/h inches in back waist lengths in spite of the fact that total heights varied 9 l/h inches. The shortest women were not necessarily those with the shortest waist lengths. Even with these rather pronounced measurement dif- ferences, all of these women can wear size In patterns better than any other size. As they were selected as ”typical” size lhis for the purpose of this study, the measurements of women the country over who wear pattern size 1h may vary even more widely than this. 3Back waist Length 12 Trying the dresses on the women helped to substantiate the conclusions as to the patterns which best fit the various types of body builds, body contours and postures. 13 CHAPTER III PRESENTATION OF PATTERN MEASUREMENTS AND COMPARISONS OF MEASUREMENTS All of the bodice patterns included in the study were measured according to the diagrams on pages lb and 19. The measurement lines on the diagrams are numbered according to the listing of those measurements in the tables which follow. ‘Heasurements are listed in inches unless stated otherwise. The comparisons of the measurements of the different patterns include the maximum variances plus the rating from smallest to largest for each measurement. in interpretation of these variances follows in chapter IV of this thesis. 14 P A TE 13 RN 3 t 44 F0 R BODI C“ " lSUl “EEP‘TTS T“ A“ DIAGRAIni OF E' b» an. (liar-ll I .mn‘ui/ IIIII fi .— _ _ _// “I . . , .L .b _ %%, 4 .1 3 I _ __ ab _ 3, .Arm — I l _ _ _ / MN lllll _ _ .A._ / / . _ «Pm. // % l _ _ . I 1 1L. a 1... . . g a” . _ . _ 7 he _ . .2 «A. b u _ . _ a slop... lllll .IIIJIII_IIuO,u lllllll a . ._ . ,Mw. . . i m . x a a I. x a e w . . l l _ _ . u . . . a . C 1%.. l..wm:\.~Ml|LI!IO. IIIIIII 3 p a 1.; l. a sf .lflu. 1; J Back Front 1. 2. 3. h. 5. MEASUREMENTS OF SIZE 111. BASIC BODICE PATTERNS 15 1 B n s v BUST news a. Front 20 m; 19 3/8 20 3/11 20 1/2 20 1/2 b. Back 17 3/h 17 3/h 17 1/t 17 1/2 17 c. Back1 17 3/11 17 3/11 18 1/2 17 1/8 18 29351; 38 37 442 38 38 37 112 Totala 38 37 1g 39 7 8 2 wuss enemas to Front 111 1/2 13 3/h 11+ m 1/11 11+ 1/11 b. Back 12 3/8 12 1/2 12 1/11 12 1/h 12 Total 27% 26_1/11 26 1/11 26 312 26 31;; CHEST wIDTHs .. Front3 13 3/11 13 3/8 13 3/h 11; 111 3/8 1» Back“ 18 3/8 111 1/11 15 1/h 18 3/l+ 15 V8 SCYE LINE a. Front 19 1/2 19 1/2 19 3/11 20 19 3/11 b. Back 18 1/2 18 1/2 18 1/2 17 3/11 18 1/1, Total 38 38 38 1M 38 330mm IENGTH S 5 S 3/8 5 1/8 5 3/8 1Back bust taken at a point 10' from.neck base on all patterns. 2Total of front bust plus back at 10” below neck base. 3Three inches from center front neck base. ’4‘!!me inches from centersback neck base. 7. 8. 9. l6 A B M s v SHOULDER SLOPE a. Front 75° 73° 71° 70° 73° b. Back 75° 71° 60° 67° 65° Total 350° _lfm1° 131° 137° 138; HECKLINE a. Front 8 l/h. 8 1/2 8 l/h 8 8 l/h b. Back 5 3/h 6 6 1/2 6 1/11 6 M; Total in 111 1/2 11 311 11 1/11 n1 112 max to Front width 11 3/L1 5 1/LL 11 3/l1 S 1/11 S 1/11 b. Front depth 2 7/8 2 7/8 2 7/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 c. Back width 5 1/2 5 1/2 6 5 1/2 5 1/2 d. Back depth 7/8 3/11 3/11 1 1 Total depth 3 3/11 3 5/8 3 5/8 3 5/8 3 5/8 wuss LENGTHs . Front ..5 17 7/8 17 5/8 17 3/11 17 3/11 18 1/8 b.6 11 7/8 1n 5/8 1t 7/8 15 15 3/8 6.7 15 3/11 15 3/11 15 3/8 15 5/8 15 7/8 Back 1.5 17 1/1 17 3/8 17 5/6 17 5/8 17 7/8 0.6 16 3/8 16 5/8 16 3/11 16 1/2 16 7/8 r.7 16 16 15 7/8 15 3/8 16 1/8 sShoulder at neck edge to waist (on grain). 6Center 7Shoulder through armscye at narrowest chest point to waist (on grain). 17 A B H S V Back 3.8 17 3/8 17 1/11 17 1/8 17 17 1/2 311. h. 8 1/8 a 5/8 8 a a 10. BODICE DARTS Front underarm .. Length 55/8 115/8 S 113/11 11 b. Depth 2 1/8 1 1/8 2 1 5/8 1 Front waitt c. Length 6 5/8 6 5/8 6 7/8 6 3/11 6 3/h d. Depth 1 3/11 1 3/11 2 1/h 2 2 5/8 Back shoulder e. Length 3 1/h 3 1/2 2 5/8 3 3/l+ 2 7/8 t. Depth 1/2 1/2 3/8 5/8 5/8 82ka333 7 6 6 3/1 8 1/8 5 3/1 h. Depth 1 1/2 7/8 l M; 1 l/8 1 ll. CENTER FRONT NECK BASE T0 BUST LEVEL (on grain) 7 7 1/8 7 5/8 7 3/8 7 5/8 12. 17mm BETHEEN BUST POINTS 7 1/2 7 1/2 7 1/2 8 8 1/h 13. 1:1th or SIDE OF BODY AT scye 1.111139 a. Front 3 2 3/h 3 3 2 5/8 b. Back 2 2 1/8 1 7/8 1 3/11 1 5/8 Total 5 #718 LL 7/8 11 3/lL M 8Shoulder point at anmscye to center back waist. 9See diagram of measurements on p. 111. l‘8 A B M S v 111. SLOPE - SCYE To wlISTlo a. Front 103° 97° 102° 97° 97° 1:. Back 81° 75° 75° 78° 75° Total 188° 172° 177° 175° 172° 15. DISTANCE FROM SHOULDER To SCYE LEVEL (on grain)10 a. Front 6 1/2 6 5/8 6 3/8 6 7/8 7 1/8 b. Back 8 7 5/8 8 l/b, 7 7/8 8 3/8 16. CIRCUMFERENCE OF BODICE ARMSCYE a. Front 8 1/2 8 1/2 8 l/h. 8 5/8 8 3/8 b. Back 8 5/8 8 1/2 8 3/11 8 1/11 8 3/11 Total 17 1/8 17 _17 _;6 7L8 M 108ee diagram of measurements on p. 111 . 19 DIAGRAM OF MEASUREMENTS FOR SLEEVE PATTERNS 17b ‘ \ — 7' -19C-\ 2" .J ‘a -1973 _____ I I 40 / 17a / I ___/_.....__ .d K ”I” . Q‘b __ _-.______>.S- ”21.- _. __ l | I l 24 l I 2213 221 23a ' ,f ————— 26w— — --— 23b X 5 Bottom sleeve cap point Y — Corrocfci . J-" sleeve lorgtn 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 20 a B M S V CIRCUHFERENCE 0F SLEEVE ARMSCYE a. Front 9 1/2 9 l/ll 9 3/8 9 3/11 9 1/2 1:. Back 9 3/8 9 1/1 9 3/11 9 1/11 9 7/8 Total 18 778 18 112 19 1/8 13 313/8 SLEEVE CAP EASE Front " “223‘” t° 1 5/8 1 7/8 1 1/8 b. Underarm 0 1/8 1/8 1/h o T2323“; 1 341 1 8 1 l 8 1 1 8 Back c. N33? to 3/11 5/8 7/8 3/11 3/11 6.. Underarm O l/8 1/8 1/14. 3/8 Total back 341 3/11 _;L 1 1.18_ Total “WA; 2 M8 2 1/8 2 IZL SLEEVE CAP wIDTHS .. 1" down 8 3/1 11 3/8 u 3/8 u 3/8 u 3/8 b. 3" down 7 5/8 7 1/2 7 5/8 7 3/8 7 1/h °° in???" 10 10 1/8 10 3/8 10 1/1 lo 3/8 SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT 5 1/2 S 7/8 5 3/11 5 3/L1 6 SLEEVE GIRTH 13 1/2 13 13 1/2 13 1/2 13 3/8 21 A B 1M 3 V 22. SLEEVE LENGTHS (corrected sleeve)11 a. Scye to wrist 17 1/8 17 1/2 171/8 175/8 -- b. Overarm 23 23 5/8 23 1/11 23 3/11 -- 23. ELBOU DARTS a. Length 2 5/8 3 2 7/8 3 2 5/8 b. Total depth 1 5/8 2 1 7/8 2 1 l/h 2h. DISTANCE FROM ELBOW TO BOTTOM CAP POINT (sleeve center) 7 7/8 a 3/1 7 a 5/6 a 1/2 25. DISTANCE FROM ELBOW T0 WRIST (corrected sleeve)11 9 1/2 9 10 3/8 9 3/8 -- 26. ELBOW CIRCUMF‘ERENCE 11 1/2 11 M; 12 11 5/8 11 1/L1 27. WRIST CIRCUMFERENCE 7 1/2 6 3/11 7 7/8 7 -- 11Front and back underarm.seams straightened so that slope from girth to elbow is continued from.elbow to wrist. 22 A COMPARISON OF THE MEASUREMENTS OF SIZE 1h BASIC BODICES Maximum Variance1 Rating2 (smallest to largest) l. BUST HIDTHS a. Front 1 B .A 3 H b. Back 3/11 V H S g c. 3.61:3 1 M; S g V M Total circumference A (a and b) 1/2 B a V S Total circumference (aandc) 13/11 BSAVM 2. WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE a. Front 3/11 B M 3 A H be BECk J/h V s B A B Total circumference l M S A V 3. CHEST mm A a. Front 1 B S V M M be B‘Ok 1 B A S v 1Listed in inches unless stated otherwise. 2Listed from.emallest to largest measurement unless stated otherwise. Pattern symb ls placed one above the other indicate that the measurements 0 these patterns are the same. BBack bust taken at a point 10” from.neck base. (See [3.5 .) 23 Maximum Variance Rating (smallest to largest) h. SCYE LINE ac Front 2 A M 1/ B V S b. Back 3/h S V A a Total scye line 1/2 S S H V A n 5. SHOULDER LENGTH 3/8 E S v 6. SHOUIDER SLOPE (least to greatest slope) a. Front 5° A 5 M, S be Back 15° A B S V Total slope 19° B V S 7. NECKLINE a. Front 1/2 S g B S b. Back 3/h A B v B Total neckline 3/14. 3 V 8. NECK _ B a. Front width 1/2 A M 3 S A b. Front depth l/h v g Maximum Variance Rating (smallest to largest) A c. Back width 1/2 g M V B ‘ S d. Back depth l/h M ‘ V 9. HAIST LENGTHS Front a.“ 1/2 B 2 A V 19-5 3/11 B s S V 6 c. 1/2 M S g V Back d.h 5/8 A B E 6.5 1/2 A S B M v 17.6 3/8 S M g v 7 1/2 s M B A V 8c M Side h. 5/8 3 A B 10. BODICE DARTS Front underarm a. Length 1 5/8 V B S b. Depth 1 1/8 V B S M ”Shoulder at neck edge to waist (on grain). SCenter 6Shoulder through armscye at narrowest chest point to waist (on grain). 7Shoulder point at armscye to center back waist. 25 Haximum.Variance Rating (smallest to largest) Front waist A Go Le th ’18 1/11 B v M d. Depth 7/8 a ’S M V Back shoulder darts e. Length 11/8 M V A B s A 8 Back waist darts g. Length 2 l/2 . V B M h. Depth 5/8 B V S M A 11. CENTER FRONT NECK BASE TO BUST LEVEL (on grain) 5/8 A B S913 12.‘HIDTH BETWEEN BUST POINTS A 3117 B s v M 13.‘HIDTH OF SIDE OF BODY AT SCYE LINE8 a. Front 3/8 V B g b. Back 1/2 V s M A B B Total distance 3/h V S M A 1h. SLOPE FROM SCYE TO WAIST8 (least to greatest slope) a. Front 6° A M g 8See diagram.of measurements on p. 1h. 26 Maximum.Variance Rating 0 B b. Back 6 A M S V o B Total slope 12 A M S V 15. DISTANCE FROM SHOULDER TO SCYE LEVEL (on grain)6 a. Front 3/h M A B. S V b. Back 3/h B S A M V (smallest to largest) 16. CIRCUMFERENCE OF BODICE ARMSCYE a. Front 3/8 H V B S M b. Back 1/2 S B A V Total armscye l/Ll. S B A M V 17. CIRCUMFERENCE OF SLEEVE ARMSCYE A a. Front 1/2 B M V S B b. Back 5/8 s A M V Total armscye 7/8 B A S M V 18. SLEEVE CAP EASE M Total front 3/8 B A S V Total back 3/8 A M V B B Total cap ease 3/14. E A g V 27 Maximum Variance Rating (smallest to largest) 19. SLEEVE CAP wIDTHS B M a. 1" down 3/8 S A V ,, A b. 3 down 3/8 V S B M M c. 1” from girth 3/8 A B S V 20. SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT 1/2 A I; B V 21. SLEEVE GIRTR 1/2 B v A S 22. SLEEVE LENGTHS (Pattern V was 3/11 length) a. Scye to wrist l/2 I“! B S b. Overarm 3/11 A M B S 23. ELBOU DARTS A B a. Length 3/8 y M 3 B b. Total depth 3/11 V A M S 211. DISTANCE FROM ELBow TO BOTTOM CAP POINT 1 3/h M A V S B 25. DISTANCE FROM ELBOw TO MEET 1 3/8 B A 26. new CIRCUMFERENCE 3/11 3 A 27. URIST CIRCUMFERENCE 1 1/8 B A M 28 A COMPARISON OF SIMILAR SIZE 1h BODICES 'HITH BASIC SIZE 1h BODICES The second group of size In bodices was selected from the pattern books. Their measurements begin on the following page. They have the same darting as the basic bodices with the exception that pattern S has ease on the back shoulder instead of a dart and has a dart at the back neckline which the other patterns do not have. A conformity of sleeve lengths was not available, so comparisons were made only in sleeve armscyes, caps and girth. The study of the second group of size In bodices was made to reinforce the findings for the basic bodices. An over-all comparison shows that the significant differences in measurements among basic bodice patterns are also true for this group. A comparison Of ease allowances according to the body measurement standards for all patterns is on pages 70 and 71. The shapes of the pattern pieces and the placement of darts were similar for each group and the differences among companies for the second bodices were consistent with the differences in the basic bodices. A specific interpre- tation of pattern shapes is included in chapter IV. 29 MEASUREMENTS OF SIMILAR BODICE PATTERNS - SIZE 1J4. A B M s v 1. BUST wIDTHs a. Front 20 1/2 19 J/h 20 3/1 20 1/1 20 1/u b. Back 18 17 3/h 17 17 l/h 18 c. Back1 18 1/2 17 3/ll- 18 3/11 17 l/h. 18 1/11 gotal J8 2 2 2 8 ggtalz 39 37 112 33 112 37 1/2 .38 11; 2. wilsT CIRCUMFERENCE a. Front m 3/11 13 1/2 m 11+ 1/2 111 1/1 b. Back 12 1/2 13 12 12 1/2 12 2235;; 2211g__26 112 26 21 26 111 3. CHEST wIDTHs a. Front3 111 111 13 3/11 ll; 15 1» Back“ 11 3/1 111 1/2 15 1/1 11 1/2 15 1/2 a. 3613 LINE .. Front 19 3/11 19 1/2 19 3/11 19 3/u 19 3/11 b. Back 18 3/h 18 3/u 18 1/2 17 3/h 18 3/1 Total _38_1121 38_1(u .38 11; 31 112 38 112 5. SHOULDER LENGTH 5 5 5 3/8 5 l/8 S L/h 1Back bust taken at a point 10" from nech base on all patterns. 2Total of front bust plus back at 10" below neck base. 3WD. inches from center front neck base. “Your. inches from center back neck be”, 6. 7. 9. to waist (on grain). 30 A B M s v shounesn SLOPE a. Front 75° 73° 71° 72° 7h° b. Back 72° 70° 6h° 65° 65' Total 117° 1&3“ 135° _137' 139‘ NECKLINE a. Front 8 1/2 8 3/h 8 l/h 8 8 111 b. Back 5 B/u 6 6 1/2 6 6 1/u Total 14 111 11 311 11 311 11 11 112 uses :1. Front width 11 3/11 5 1/11 5 1/11 5 1/u 5 1/11 b. Front depth 3 3 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 5/8 0. Back width 5 l/h 5 l/2 6 5 l/2 5 J/h d. Back depth 7/8 3/h 3/h 7/8 2/8 Total depth 3 718 3 3/1 3 ya 3 1/2 3 112 wilsm LENGTHS Front 11.5 17 3/11 17 3/L1 17 3/11 17 5/8 18 b.6 11 3/11 11 3/8 11 7/8 11 7/8 15 1/a 6.7 15 7/8 15 7/8 15 1/2 15 1/2 16 Back a. 17 3/8 17 3/8 17 1/2 17 1/2 17 3/1 ..6 16 1/2 16 5/8 16 3/1 16 1/2 16 3/1 1.7 16 1/8 16 15 7/8 15 B/h 16 1/8 sShoulder at neck edge to waist (on grain). 6Center 7Shoulder through armscye at narrowest chest point Back g.8 Side h. 10. BODICE DARTS Front underarm ‘e Length b. Depth Front waist a. Length do Depth Back shoulder 0 0 Long th 1*. Depth Back waist 8 0 Length he DOPth 11. CENTER FRONT NECK BASE TO BUST LEVEL (on grain) 12. WIDTH BETWEEN BUST POINTS 13. mm 0F SIDE OF BODY AT SCYE LINE9 a. Front be BCck 31 1 s n s v 17 1/2 17 3/8 17 17 17 3/8 7 7/8 8 5/8 8 8 8 5 l1 1/2 s 1/8 5 3/11 3 1/2 1 3/11 1 1/11 1 7/8 1 3/11 1 1/8 6 1/8 6 5/8 7 1/8 6 5/8 6 J/h 1 1/2 1 3/11 2 1/8 1 7/8 2 1/2 3 1/8 3 1/2 2 1/2 -- 3 3/8 (ease) 1/2 1/2 1/2 5/8 (neck - length - depth --------- 34/11) -- 7 1/2 6 5/8 8 1/8 5 3/11 (tucks) 1 3/11 7/8 1 3/8 1 1/11 1 7 7 7 3/11 7 1/11 7 3/8 7 1/2 7 3/L1 7 1/2 8 8 1/1 3 1/8 2 3/L1 2 7/8 3 2 5/8 2 1/8 2 1/8 2 l/h 1 5/8 1 5/8 EMA 5118 1 5/8 M Total 8Shoulder point at armscye to center back waist. 9See diagram of measurements on p. 111. 1h. 15. 16. 17. 18. A B SLOPE .. 8013 TO 17113110 a. Front 100’ 96° b. Back 81° 77‘ Total 181' ID" 32 102° 98° 98° 739 80. 71+. 175' 118‘ 112° DISTANCE FROM SHOULDER TO SCYE LEVEL (on grain)10 a. Front 7 6 3/h 6 1/2 6 3/11 6 7/8 b. Back 8 1/h 7 5/8 8 1/8 7 7/8 8 1/11 CIRCUHFERENCE OF BODICE mm a. Front 9 8 1/2 8 l/h 8 3/8 8 l/h b. Back 9 1/11 8 1/2 8 3/11 8 3/8 8 3/1 13111 18 441 1] 17 16 1 CIRCUMFERENCE OF SLEEVE ARMSCYE a. Front 10 9 l/h 9 3/8 9 5/8 9 I/Z b. Back 9 7/8 9 3/8 9 3/11 9 3/8 9 5/3 Total 19 718 18 518 19 118 19 19 1111 SLEEVE CAP EASE Front a. Notch to top 1 l/2 l l/8 l l l/h b. Underarm o l/h o 1/11 o 2225; front 1 1 8x 1 1 1 Back ~ ~ c. Notch to top 5/8 5/8 1 3/h 1 d. Underarm. O l/h O l/h 0 Tota}; back 5/8 7/8 11: l 1 Total ease 1 518 1 5/8 2118 21,111 21111 108” diagram of measurements on p. 111. 33 A B M S V 19. SLEEVE CAP WIDTHS a. 1' down 8.1/2 h 1/2 h 3/8 u 5/8 h l/h b. 3" down 7 1/11 7 5/8 7 5/8 7 1/2 7 1/8 c. 1' above girth 10 1/1 18 1/8 10 l/h 10 10 1/8 20. SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT 5 7/8 5 5/8 5 3/11 5 5/8 5 7/8 21. SLEEVE GIRTH 13 3/8 13 1/8 13 3/8 13 3/8 13 1/1 3h A COMPARISON OF SIZE 16 BODICES erH SIZE 1h HODICES The size 16 bodices were the same pattern numbers as those used in the study of the second group of size 1h bodices. The size 16 patterns were measured to observe the grading of sizes for each pattern and to determine if the differences among the patterns in the smaller size were also true for this size. (See page 36 for the beginning of the listing of measurements for size 16 bodices.) It was found that the differences were consistent in the larger size patterns. That is, these patterns which were larger in one area in size 1h were also larger in that area in size 16. It was noted that in grading from.eize 14 to size 16, the pattern makers for each company allowed not only for more flesh, but also for greater bone structure. For example, necklines were 1/2 to 3/h inch larger in size 16 than in size In (A and S - 1/2 inch; B, M and V - 3/1 inch). This extra allowance came in front depth and in both the front and back widths. This might prove a problem.to the fleshy size 16 woman with small bohe structure. Shoulder lengths were from.l/8 to l/h inch greater in the size 16 patterns than in size 1h. The slope of shoulders and side seams were the same in both sizes, as were the widths between bust points. The 35 extra allowances for bust circumference were in the depth of the bust, the side of the body and the width of the back. A summary-of ease allowances for all patterns is on pages 70 and 71. Bodice armscyes were 1/2 to 3/h inch larger (A and B - 1/2 inch; H, S and V - 3/h inch), and sleeve armscyes were 5/8 to 7/8 inch larger (1, B and M - 5/8 inch; 3 and V, - 7/8 inch) in size 16 than in size 1h. Sleeve cap ease was increased only 1/8 inch in all size 16 patterns. Sleeve girths ranged from 5/8 to B/M inch larger in the size 16 patterns (B, M, S and V - 5/8 inch; A - 3/h inch). 1. 2. 3. )1. 5. patterns. 1 2Total of front bust plus back at 10' below neck base. MEASUREMENTS OF SIMILAR BODICE PATTERNS - SIZE 16 36 1 B M S V BUST wIDTHS a. Front 21 l/2 20 3/8 22 21 1/2 21 1/2 b. Back 19 18 3/11 18 18 19 c. Back1 19 1/2 18 3/8 19 1/2 18 19 1/2 Total to 1/2 39_112_ to _19 to 1/2 Total2 hl 39 1/g__11 i1g1_ho _11____ wlIST CIRCUMFERENCE a. Front 16 1h 1/2 15 15 1/2 15 b. Back 13 3/8 13 3/8 13 13 l/h 13 1/8 Total 29 311 28 111 28 28 28 l CHEST wIDTHs a. Front3 in 1/2 1h 1/2 1h 1h 1/2 15 1/2 b. 136611L 15 1/2 15 15 3/1 15 1/11 15 3/1 SCYE LINE a. Front 20 3/8 20 1/h 20 3/8 21 21 b. Back 19 3/8 19 3/8 20 11h 18 1/2 19 3/h Total 110 112 ho £11 39 112 110 3111 SHOULDER LENGTH S 1/8 5 1/8 S 3/8 5 3/8 5 3/8 1Back bust taken at a point 10" from neck base on all 31hr” inches from center front neck base. h'Ponr- inches from center back neck base. 37 A B M S v 6. SHOULDER SLOPE a. Front 75° 73° 71° 720 730 b. Back 72° 70° 611° 65° 66° Total 142° 143° 135° 137' _;§9° 7. NECKLINB a. Front 8 ya 9 8 1/2 8 U1; 8 3/h b. Back 6 6 1/h 6 3/11 6 l/h 6 1/2 Total 111 3/11 15 1111 15 1111 111 112 15 111 8. NECK a. Front width h 3/h S 1/2 5 1/2 5 1/2 5 1/2 to Front depth 3 1/11 3 1/1 2 3/11 2 3/11 2 3/h c. Back width 5 3/11 5 3/11 6 1/11 5 3/8 6 d. Back depth 7/8 3/11 3/h 7/8 7/8 Total depth h 1/8 h 3 1/2 3 5/8 3 5/8 9. WAIST LENGTHS Front 1.5 18 1/8 18 18 18 1/8 18 3/8 In." 111 7/8 11 5/8 15 1/8 15 1/11 15 1/2 6.7 16 1/1 16 1/h 16 l6 16 3/8 SShoulder at neck edge to waist (on grain). 6Center. 7Shoulder through armscye at narrowest chest point to waist (on grain). i B H 3 Back «1.5 17 3/11 17 5/8 17 3/11 17 7/8 e.6 16 7/8 16 7/8 17 16 7/8 13.7 16 3/8 16 1/8 16 16 8.8 17 7/8 17 3/11 17 3/8 17 3/8 Side h. 8 8 5/8 8 1/8 8 1/8 10. BODICE DARTS Front underarm a. Length 5 1/11 11 5/8 5 3/8 5 7/8 b. Depth 1 3/h 1 l/h 1 7/8 2 Fifniezgtfit 6 1/11 6 5/8 7 1/11 6 5/8 (1. Depth 1 1/2 1 3/h 2 1/8 2 8:313:31?” 3 1/8 3 1/2 3 1/2 (-.. ) 1’. Depth 5/8 1/2 1/2 “1711 ' (neck - length - depth ------ 3-1/11) 8253333; ”gm 7 1/2 6 3/1 8 1/8 h. Depth 1 3/11. 7/8 1 3/8 1 l/b, 11. CENTER FRONT NECK BASE TO BUST LEVEL (on grain) 7 1/8 7 1/8 7 7/8 7 1/2 12. mm HETHEEN BUST POINTS 7 1/2 7 3/11 7 1/2 8 i/h 38 18 1/8 17 1/8 16 3/8 17 3/11 8 1/8 3 5/8 1 1/11 2 3/11 3 3/8 5/8 71/2 8 1/11 8Shoulder point at armscye to center back waist. 13. 15. 16. 17. 18. 39 A B M S V wIDTH OF SIDE OF BODY 1T SCYE LINE9 1. Front 3 l/h 3 3 1/1 3 1/11 2 7/8 b- 38°18 2 1/11 2 3/8 2 1/2 1 7/8 1 7/8 Total 5_112 5 3/8 531; 15:1[8 11311 SLOPE - SCYE To wiIST9 a. Front 100° 96° 102° 100° 98° b. Back 81° 77° 73° 80° 711° Total 181° 173° 175° 480° 112° DISTANCE FROM SHOUIDER T0 SCYE LEVEL (on grain)9 a. Front 7 l/h 7 6 B/h 6 3/h 7 1/8 b. Back 8 1/2 7 7/8 8 3/8 8 1/8 8 1/2 CIRCUHFERENCE 0F BODICE ARMSCYE a. Front 9 l/h 8 3/h 8 5/8 8 3/h 8 5/8 b. Back 9 1/2 8 3/h 9 1/8 8 3/11 9 1/8 Total 18 ALL 17 11L1L3Zh 17M CIRCUMFERENCE OF SLEEVE ARMSCYE ‘ a. Front 10 1/h 9 5/8 9 5/3 10 10 b. Back 10 mt 9 5/8 10 1/8 9 7/8 10 1/8 Total 20 W11 19 7/8 20 118 SLEEVE CAP EASE Fifnfiotch to top 1 5/8 1 1 l/3 l 3/8 b. Underarm 0 l/h. 0 1/8 0 Total front 1 168 .1l_, 1 1 1 8 9See diagram.of measurements on p. 1h. Back c. Notch to top d. Underarm Total back Total ease 19e SLEEVE CAP WIDTHS a. 1” down b. 3” down c. 1” above girth 20e SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT 21. SLEEVE GIRTH ho a B M S V 3/11 5/8 1 7/8 1 0 1/8 0 1/8 0 3111 7/8 1 l 118 l l 1 2 2 8 2 8 l1 1/2 £1 1/2 11 1/2 11 5/8 it 5/8 7 3/8 7 3/11 7 3/11 7 3/11 7 1/2 10 3/h 10 1/2 10 5/8 10 1/2 10 1/2 6 1/8 5 3/11 5 7/8 5 7/8 6 1/8 111 1/8 13 3/11 11 111 13 7/8 hl MEASUREMENTS OF SLIM SKIRTS - SIZE 111 (3 gore with seam in back) i B M s V wlIST CIRCUHFERENOE Front 18 1/2 13 1/2 18 1/8 18 1/8 18 Back 12 11h 12 1/2 12 l/h 12 1/2 12 1/h 1351111 26 311 26 26 11a 26 3/1:_26_111: HIP C IRCUMFERENCES 7' below center front waist Front 20 5/8 19 19 3/8 19 1/2 20 Back 18 3/h 18 3/h 18 l/h 19 1/2 17 3/h Total 393/8 373111 37 518 39 37 31L 8 1/2' below center front waist Front 20 7/8 19 1/1 19 1/2 19 3/8 20 111 Back 19 19 18 3/8 19 J/h 18 Total 39 7/8 38_111_ 37 718 39_11g__3§_111_ 10” below center front waist Front 21 19 1/2 19 3/8 20 20 1/2 Back 19 1/h l9 I/h 18 1/2 20 18 1/h Total to 118 38 3/8 38 111 no 381314. HIDTH LT LOWER EDGE OF SKIRT (measured at 29 3/h” from.center front waist) Front 23 l/h 22 22 1/1 22 1/2 23 Back 21 1/2 22 20 1/1 22 1/2 20 3/h Tom W214 #2 A B H. S V DiRTS1 Front h’ /8 / lengths - side 3 h l 8 3 h 5 5/8 center 11 3/11 11 1/8 3 11 Total depth (one side) 1 1/2 1 1 l/h 1 1/h 1 1/2 Back Lengths - side h 7/8 6 /h 5 1/2 5 3/8 h 1 center 5 S 1/h S 3/8 it Total depth (one side) 2 1 3/8 1 3/8 2 l l/h Total depth at waistline 7 113/11 51/11 61/2 51/2 ACTUAL LENGTHS TO HEM ON ALL PATTERNS Center front 29 B/h 29 5/3 30 3/h 29 3/h 29 l/h Side seam. 30 1/2 30 31 3/8 30 1/h 30 Center back 30 1/8 30 l/8 31 29 3/8 29 1/2 LENGTHS FROM wAIST TO HIP LEVEL 10" FROM CENTER FRONT Side seam. 10 3/h 10 3/8 10 5/8 10 1/2 10 3/8 Center back 10 3/8 10 1/2 10 l/h 10 10 l/h SLOPE OF SIDE SEAMS (difference between hip at 10" level and hem) Front 1 1/8 1 l/h l l/h l l/h 1 1/8 Back 1 1/8 1 1/1 7/8 1 1/8 1 1/8 EEEEQLf ._£LJMTL_.£LAJEL__§_1[§1 2131§1 2.114. 1Each side of pattern has two darts front and back, except B which has one. ' #3 A COMPARISON OF MEASUREMENTS OF SIZE 1h SLIM SKIRTS Haximum.Vai-iance1 Rating2 (smallest to largest) HIIST CIRCUMFERENCE Front 1 B V g A Back l/h g g Total circumference 3/h B V M : HIP CIRCUMFERENCES 7” below center front waist Front 15/8 B M S V A Back 13/8 14 g S Total circumference l 3/h M 5 S A 8 1/2" below center front waist Front 15/8 B M S V A Back 1 ya H g Total circumference 2 M 5 S A 10” below center front waist Front 11/2 B M S V A Back 13/l1 H E Total circumference 2 H 3 3 A 1Listed in inches unless stated otherwise. gPattern symbols placed one above the other indicate that the measurements of these patterns are the same. Maximum.Variance Rating (smallest to largest) WIDTH AT LOWER EDGE OF SKIRT (measured at 29 3/h' from.center front waist) Front 1 1/11 B M S V A Back 2 M V B S A Total circumference 2 1/h H V B Q DARTS Front Lengths 25/8 S v M A B Total depth M A (one side) 1/2 B S V Back M Lengths 2 1/h V A S B Total depth B A (one side) 3/h V M S Total depth at waistline 2 M; B M V s A ACTUAL LENGTHS TO HEM.ON ALL PATTERNS A Center front 1 1/2 V B 3 1M B S A M Side Beam 1 1/2 V A Center Back 1 l/2 V S B LENGTHS FROM'HAIST TO HIP LEVEL 10' FROM CENTER FRONT A Side seam 3/8 B S M v S H A E Center back 1/2 V SLOPE OF SIDE SEAMS Front Back Total slope Maximum 85 Variance Rating (smallest to largest) B 1/8 A M VS 8 MSB 3/ v A 3/8 HVSB A6 A COMPARISON OF SIZE 16 SLIM SKIRTS wITH SIZE 1h SLLM SKIRTS The size 16 skirts were the same pattern numbers as those used in the study Of size 1h skirts. As with the bodice patterns, the size 16 skirt patterns were measured to observe the grading of sizes for each pattern and to determine if the differences among the patterns in the smaller size were also true for this size. (See size 16 measurements beginning on Page 88-) The measurements Show that the differences among the size 16 skirts were consistent with the differences among the size 1h skirts. The ratings of smallest to largest for the measurements of size 16 were in keeping with the measure- ment ratings for size 1h. Standard body waist measurements for sizes IN and 16 are 26 inches and 28 inches, respectively. Pattern A allowed 1/2 inch more ease in the waist in size 16 than in size 1h, pattern V allowed l/h inch more ease and pattern S allowed 1/8 inch more ease. Pattern B allowed the same amount Of ease and pattern M allowed l/h inch less ease. Standard body hip measurements for sizes 1h and 16 are 36 inches and 38 inches, respectively. Pattern A allowed 5/8 inch more ease at the 7 inch hip level in size 16 than.in size 1h and pattern S allowed l/h inch more ease. The other three patterns allowed the same amount of ease at this level 117 in both size patterns. Pattern A was the largest in size 1h and was also the pattern to increase the most in size 16. See pages 70 and 71 for a listing of the ease allowances for all patterns. Chapter IV includes an interpretation of the differ- ences in measurements among the size 1h patterns. MEASUREIENTS OF SLIM SKIRTS - SIZE 16 (3 gore with seam in back) A8 A B M s V wAIST CIRCUMFERENCE Front 18 111 1/2 15 l/h 15 1/2 15 l/h Back 13 1/11 13 1/2 13 13 3/8 12 3/h Total 29 1111_28 28 1111 28 718 28 HIP CIRCUMFERENCES 7" below center front waist Front 22 20 20 3/8 20 5/8 21 Back 20 19 3/11 19 1/11 20 5/8 18 3/11 Total 112 39 3111 38 518 £11 1111 39 31L 8 1/2” below center front waist Front 22 l/h 20 l/b, 20 1/2 21 21 Back 201/11 20 19 3/8 21 19 Total L12 l1;_ho 1/11 39 7/8 A2 to 10" below center front waist Front 22 1/2 20 1/2 20 3/11 21 l/h 21 M; Back 20 1/2 20 1/1 19 1/2 21 1/h l9 l/h Total A3 110 3/11 ho 1/11 A2 2 0 2 "IIEEaSErngEE gggEfgzmsgigger front waist) Front 211 3111 23 23 23 1/2 23 3111 Back 22 3/h 23 21 1/8 23 1/2 21 1/2 Total 117 112 116 W 119 A B M s V DARTS1 Front Lengths - side h.3/8 h 3 h 5 1/2 center 11 3/11 11 3 11 Total depth (one side) 1 1/2 1 1 l/h 1 l/h 1 1/2 Back A Lengths - side A 7/8 6 5 1/2 5 1/2 A 1/8 center 5 5 3/8 S 1/2 A 1/8 Total depth (one side 2 1 3/8 1 1/2 2 1 1/2 Total depth at waistline 7 h 3111 5 1/2 6 1/2 6 ACTUAL LENGTHS TO HEM ON ALL PATTERNS Center front 30 l/h 30 1/8 31 1/8 30 29 1/2 Side seam. 31 30 1/2 31 3/A 30 1/2 30 3/8 Center back 30 5/8 30 5/8 31 3/8 30 29 7/8 LENGTHS FROM‘WAIST T0 HIP LEVEL 108 FROM CENTER FRONT Side seam. 10 3/h 10 3/8 10 5/8 10 1/2 10 7/8 Center back 10 3/8 10 1/2 10 l/h 10 10 3/8 SLOPE OF SIDE SEAMS (difference between hip at 10' level and hem) Front 1 1/8 1 i/h 1 1/8 1 l/h l 118 Back 1 1/8 1 l/h 7/8 1 1/8 1 1/8 Total 2_11h 2 112 2 >213/8 2 111 lEach side of pattern has two darts front and back, except B which has one. 50 A COMPARISON OF HALF SIZE PATTERNS WITH MISSES PATTERNS The study of half size patterns was included in this thesis to compare relationships of measurements between misses and half size patterns and to Observe whether the differences among patterns in half sizes were consistent with the differ- ences among patterns in misses patterns. Basic bodice patterns in size lh% were available only in patterns A and S. Patterns B and M were selected from the styles illustrated in the pattern books as having the most shailar darting to the basic patterns. However, they do not have natural necklines, which limited the comparisons. Pat- tern M does not have long sleeves. Pattern V does not make half size patterns. A listing Of the measurements of the size lh§ bodices and a comparison Of those measurements begins on page S3.‘ The body measurement standards for misses size 1h patterns are 3h inch bust, 26 inch.waist, 36 inch hip and 16 1/h inch back waist length. The body measurement standards for size lhi patterns are 35 inch bust, 29 inch waist, 39 inch hip and 15 1/2 inch.back waist length. The pattern companies describe the misses pattern as porportioned for the average 6 fully developed figure with normal waist length. The half size pattern is described as proportioned for the figure that is shorter, slightly narrower in the shoulders and larger tn the waistline and hips than the misses pattern. 51 . The size lhi patterns in this study as compared with the size 1h basic patterns follow these variations, with the exception that the shoulder length in size lh§ pattern A.was the same as in size 1h. Size lhfi patterns B and.M were only 1/8 inch shorter in shoulder length than their respective size lh's, and pattern 8 was 5/8 inch shorter in shoulder length. The size lhfi patterns in this study allowed from.0 to 3/h inch more ease in the bust than that allowed in the size 1h basic patterns (B-O, S-l/h, A-l/Z, M-3/h). The ease allow- ance in the waistline of size lhi bodices was the same in pat- tern A as in.size 1h. Patterns B and S allowed 1/2 inch more ease in the waistline than in size 1h and pattern M allowed 1 3/h inches more ease in size lhi. It would seem.that the majority of pattern makers feel that the half size figure requires more ease allowance than the misses figure. Pattern.M allows more case in the half size than the other patterns in this size, and pattern B allows least ease. Pattern S in.half size seems to be most in keeping with the description of the half size figure. It is noticeably the Shortest in shoulder length, one of the shortest in waist lengths, and noticeably shorter in total length than the other half size patterns. It allows ample ease in bust, waist and hips. (See the summary of ease al- lowance for all patterns on pages 70 and 71s) 52 The over-all differences found among the patterns in size lh'were found again in size 14%, with the following notable exceptions. The waist circumference of pattern M in half size was the largest, but one of the smallest in size 1h. The shoulder length and waist lengths of pattern S in half size were proportionately smaller in its rating among the other size lhi patterns than among the size 1h patterns. Patterns A and B allow more sleeve cap ease in size 1kg than in size 1h. Patterns M and S allow less sleeve cap ease in size lh% than in size 1h. Because M.and S allowed more ease in size 1h patterns than did A and B, the ease allowances among the size 1h% patterns are almost equal. Pattern B has 1/8 inch less sleeve cap ease than the other patterns, which allow identical amounts. 53 MEASUREMENTS OF SIMILAR BODICE PATTERNS - SIZE lhé A B M S l. BUST wIDTHS a. Front 21 3/8 19 3/11 22 21 1/2 b. Back 18 3/h 18 l/b, 17 3/11 17 1/2 c. Backl 18 3/11 18 1/11 19 17 1/2 Total 110 1/2 38 39 3111 39 1.91213 to #13 38 1.1 39 2. wAIST’CIRCUMFERPHVCE a. Front 16 15 3/11 l7 16 1:. Back 111 1/11 11 111 11+ Total m 11h 233/11 31 3o 3. CHEST wIDTHS a. Front3 13 3/h -- -- 13 3/11 b. Backh 15 15 1/11 15 1/2 111 11. SCYE LINE a. Front 20 1/2 19 3/11 20 1/2 20 VA b. Back 19 3/11 19 1/2 19 3/11 19 Total 1119 1111 32 1111 110 ML]; 22 1111 lBack bust taken at a point 10? from neck base on all patterns. . 2Total of front bust plus back at 10%” below neck base. Bares inches from center front neck base. BandM could not be measured here because they do not have natural necklines. “thus- inches from center back neck base. da/ A B M 3 5. SHOULDER LENGTH ’ 5 1 7/8 5 1/1 A 1/2 6. SHOUIDER SLOPE a. Front 76° 73° 730 750 b. Back 70° 68° 596 650 Total 116° 111° _1_32° 110° 7. NECKLINE a. Front 8 1/h __ -_ 8 b. Back 6 6 6 1/14,’ 6 1/11 Total #AQLA/u -- -- 3h 16“ 8. NECK a. Front width A 1/2 5 1/2 h 1111 5 b. Front depth 2 7/8 —- -- 2 5/8 c. Back width 6 5 3/11 6 5 3/11 d. Back depth 7/8 3/11 3/h 1 Total depth 3 3/11 -- -- 3 5/8 9. wAIST LENGTHS Front a.5 17 3/8 17 1/8 17 3/11 16 7/8 b.6 11 3/8 . .- -- 11 1/1 6.7 15 1/2 15 1/8 15 7/8 111 7/8 Back 8.5 16 5/8 16 1/2 17 1/8 16 3/11 6.6 15 5/8 15 3/11 16 15 3/11 r.7 15 15 15 1/8 15 511 SShoulder at neck edge to waist (on grain). 6Center 7Shoulder through armscye at narrowes "aiflt (on grain). t chest point to Wk 8-8 16 1/2 16 5/8 16 3/8 16 3/8 Side h. 7 1/8 7 5/8 7 7 1/2 10. BODICE DARTS ' Front underarm a. Length 5 5/8 11 3/11 11 1/2 11 3/1 b. Depth 2 5/8 1 3/8 1 3/h l 3/h Fifnmgtfit 6 7 1/8 6 3/11 5 7/8 d. Depth 2 l/h 1 3/11 2 2 1/8 3:33:32??? 3 3/8 3 3/8 3 1/11 3 3/h 1'. Depth 5/8 7/8 1/2 5/3 (2 1/8--l/h - - - neck - length --depth) 32313323 6 3/8 7 6 3/h 7 1/8 h. Depth 1 1/2 1 2 1 3/8 11. DISTANCE FROM FRONT SHOULDER AT NECK EDGE TO BUST LEVEL (on grain) . 10 l/h 10 10 1/2 10 1/8 12. mm BETwEEN BUST POINTS 8 l/u. 8 8 l/h 8 1/11 13. 11le OF SIDE OF BODY AT SCYE LINE9 a. Front 3 5/3 2 3/h 3 l/M 3 l/2 b. Back 2 3/8 2 1/8 2 3/8 2 3/8 Total 6 LL 7/8 5 5/8 5 7/3 SS 8Shoulder point at armscye t 0 center back waist. 98cc diagram.of measurements on p. 1h. 15. 16. 17. 18. 56 A B M. S SLOPE - SCYE To HAIST9 e. Front 110° 99° 109° 101° b. Back 80“ 76° 81° 80' 222212 111§1° 1115’ .129° __1§11 DISTINCE FROM SHOULDER TO SCYE LEVEL (on grain)9 S. Front 6 3/h 6 5/8 7 1/1 6 3/8 b. Each 8 1/1 7 5/8 8 3/8 7 3/8 CIRCUMFERENCE OF BODICE ARMSCYE S. Front 9 8 3/8 9 L/h 8 5/8 b. Back 9 8 1/2 9 1/u 8 5/8 Total 18 _#;§_7/8 18 1/2 11 144 CIRCUMFERENCE OF SLEEVE ARMSCYE e. Front 10 9 3/8 10 I/h 9 5/8 b. Back 10 9 3/8 10 l/h 9 3/8 Totg;__ p_ggfi _1;§3/h 20 1(2 12 114 SLEEVE CAP EASE Fifnfiotch to top 1 7/3 7/8 7/8 b. Underarm. O 1/8 1/8 1/8 2222;;front 1 1 __;LW» 1 B:kootch to top 1 5/8 7/8 7/8 d. Underarm O 1/’+ 1/8 1/8 Total back 1 7/8 1 1 ___ EEEEQLSEEELv 2 1 7/8 2 2 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 25. 26. 27. A B SLEEVE CAP HIDTHS a. 1" down 11 1/2 11 3/8 b. 3" down 7 5/8 7 5/8 c. 1" above girth lo 3/h 10 1/8 SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT 6 5 1/2 SLEEVE GIRTH m 1/8 13 3/11 SLEEVE LENGTHS (corrected sleeve)10 a. Scye to wrltt 17 1/8 16 1/2 b. Overarn 23 1/2 22 1/11 ELEOU'DARTS :1. Length 2 1/2 3 IA; b. Total depth 1 1/2 2 l/h 57 DISTANCE FROM ELBOW To BOTTOM CAP POINT (sleeve center) 8 5/8 8 5/8 10 DISTANCE FROM ELBOW TO WRIST (corrected sleeve) 8 3/11 8 1/u ELBOR CIRCUMFERENCE 12 3/8 11 5/8 HRIST CIRCUMFERENGE 8 1/h 7 3/8 H s h 3/8 h 3/8 7 1/11 7 1/2 10 1/1 10 1/8 6 l/h 5 1/2 In 1/8 18 l/8 -- 16 3/h -- 22 1/2 3 3/8 3 1/8 1 1 7/8 7 3/1 8 1/8 ‘ -- 8 7/8 12 l/h 12 1/8 -- 7 1/1 slope from girth to elbow is continued 10Front and back underarm seam S straightened so that from elbow to wrist. 58 A COMPARISON OF THE MEASUREMENTS 0F SIZE 111% BODICES Maximum.Variance1 Rating2 (smallest to largest) 1. BUST UIDTHS a. Front 21/L1 B S A M b.Back ll/h. SM c.Back'3 11/2 SBAM Total circumference _ (aandb) 21/2 BSMA Total circumference (aandc) 3 BSAM 2. UIIST CIRCUMFERENCE a. Front 1 l/h B s M B A b. Back 1/11 184 Total circumference 1 1/1 E S A M 3. CHEST wIDTHS A a. Fronth l/h S b. Back 1 1/2 S A B M 1Listed in inches unless stated otherwise. t unless 2Listed from.smallest to largest measuremen stated otherwise. Pattern symbols placed one above the other indicate that the measurements of these patterns are the same. 3Back bust taken at a point 10' from.neck base. (See p. S.) 'hB and H could not be measured here and at front neckline because they do not have natural necklines. Maximum Variance h.SCIE LINE a. Front . be 330k Total circumference S. SHOULDER LENGTH 6. SHOULDER SLOPE a. Front be Batik Total slope 7. NECKLINE a. Front be B301! Total neckline 8. NECK a. Front width be Front depth c. Back width d. Back depth 3/h 3/11 1/2 11° 1h° 1/LL 1/ LI- 1 1/11 1/1 1/11 1/11 59 Rating (smallest to largest) 3” Sb 8 B B A H S B A M (least to greatest slope) B A S M A B S M B S H ca mt: b 3 Mb tub p. m w 3w mm P ’3» 60 Maximum_Variance Rating (smallest to largest) 9. WAIST EENGTHS Front a.5 7/8 S B A M ”'6 B/h S A B °°7 1 S B A Back 6..5 5/8 B A S 9'6 3/8 A g M 11.7 1/8 3 M S 3.8 1/8 2 A B Side h. 5/8 M A S B 10. BODICE DARTS Front underarm B a. Length 1 1/8 M s A M b. Depth 1 l/h B S A Fr2?tn23é2§ 1 1/h S A M B d. Depth 1/2 B M S A sShoulder at neck edge to waist (on grain). Center. 7Shoulder through armscye at narrowest chest point to waist (on grain). 8Shoulder point at armscye to center back waist. 61 Maximum.Variance Rating (smallest to largest) Back shoulder darts . A e. Length 1/2 M B S r. Depth 3/8 M g B Back waist darts 3. Length 3/11 A M B S h. Depth 1 B S A M 11. DISTANCE FROM FRONT SHOULDER AT NECK EDGE T0 BUST LEVEL (on grain) 1/2 B S A M 12. mm BETNEEN BUST POINTS A 1.41 B M S 9 13. VIEW OF SIDE OF BODY AT SCYE LINE a. Front 7/8 B M S A b. Back l/h B Q Total distance 1 1/8 B M S A 1h. SLOPE FROM SCYE TO WAIST9 (least to greatest slope) a. Front 11" A M S B A b. Back 5° M 39 B 15. DISTANCE FROM SHOULDER To SCYE LEVEL (on grain) a. Front 7/8 S B A M b. Back 3/h B S A M 9See diagram.of measurements on'p.]ha 62 maximum.Variance Rating (smallest to largest) 16. CIRCUMFERENCE OF BODICE ARMSCYE a. Front 7/8 B s A b. Back 3/11 B S Total armscye 1 5/8 E 8 A 17. CIRCUMFERENCE OF SLEEVE ARMSch a. Front 7/8 B S A b. Back 7/8 B S A Total armscye l 3/h B S A 18. SLEEVE CAP EASE A B Total front 0 M S 8 B ‘ Total back 1/ Isa Total ease 1/8 B 3 19. SLEEVE CAP wIDTHS B a. 1” down 1/8 I; A M S ‘ be 3” down 3/8 B b B A M c. 1? above girth 3/8 s 20. SLEEVE CAP HEIGHT B A M 3/11 S A 21. SLEEVE GIRTH 3/8 B E n) 63 Maxim Variance Rating (smallest to largest) 22. SLEEVE LENGTHS (Pattern M was 3/11 length) a. Scye to wrist 5/8 B S b. Over-arm 1 1/11. E 8 23. ELBON DARTS . a. Length 7/ 8 A 8 B H b. Total depth 1 1/h M A S 211. DISTANCE FROM ELBow TO BOTTOM CAP POINT A 7/8 M S B 25. DISTANCE FROM ELBow TO MEET 5/8 B A S 26. ELBOW CIRCUMFERENCE 3A; B s M A 27. WRIST CIRCUMFERE‘ICE 6h A COMPARISON OF THE MEASUREMENTS OF SIZE 111%; SLIM SKIRTS wITH SIZE 111 SLIM SKIRTS The size 1h§ skirts used in this study were all straight hanging slim skirts, but had a variety of tucks and darts at the waistline. A consistency of darting was not available. A listing of the measurements and a rating of measurements begins on the next page. The differences found among the size 1h slim.skirts were not always found in the size lh§ slim.skirts. Patterns A and s were similar in waist circumferences in size 1h, but pattern S was 1/2 inch smaller by comparison with pattern A in size 1h 1/2. Pattern M was the smallest in hip circumr ferences in size 1h and largest in those measurements in size lh%. Pattern M added more of its extra hip measurements in the front than in the back. The other size lh% patterns showed the same variations in hip measurements as were shown in size 1h. 65 MEASUREIENTS OF SLIM SKIRTS -- SIZE 111%- A B M S HAIST CIRCUMFERENCE Front 16 ‘ 15 3/h. 16 3/8 16 Back In 1/2 1h 13 1/2 In ‘ggtg;:g 30 112 22 31g 30 1[h 3O HIP CIRCWCES 7" below center front waist Front 22 1/2 20 3/h 2h.3/8 20 3/h Back 21 l/h 20 3/1 20 20 3/h Total 1 2 8 2 8 1/2" below center front waist Front 22 3/h 21 2h 1/2 21 1/8 Back 21 1/2 21 20 l/h 21 1/8 Total y; y; 112 Lil-l: 31g 112 y; 10" below center front waist Front 23 21 l/h 2h 3/h 21 1/2 Back 21 3/8 21 1/h 20 1/2 21 1/2 Total uh.3/us_hg_1[g__15_1[h__83 __ WIDTH AT IDUE'R EDGE OF SKIRT (measured at 28 3/11" from center front waist) Front 25 1/2 23 3/h. 27 25 3/h Back 25 1/2 23 3/1 21 25 1/2 Total 51 41 112 51 51 1(g 66 A B M S DARTS AND TUCK31 Front ‘Length. (tucks) h l/h (tucks) 3 l/h Total depth 1 (one side) 2 l/h 3/h 2 3/h 1/2 Back Length 6 5/8 5 5/8 5 1/8 6 1/8 Total depth (one side) 1 1/2 1 3/h 1 5/8 1 l/h Total depth at waistline 7 1/2 5 8 3/11 3 1/2 ACTUAL BENGTHS TO HEM ON ALL PATTERNS Center front 29 28 3/h 30 27 1/2 Side seam 29 3/11 29 1/h 30 1/2 28 Center back 29 l/Z 29 3/8 30 l/h 27 5/8 LENGTHS FROM IIIST T0 HIP LEVEL 10" FROM CENTER FRONT Side seam. 10 3/h~ i0 1/2 10 l/2 10 l/2 Center back 10 1/2 10 5/8 10 l/h 10 l/8 SLOPE OF SIDE BEAMS (difference between hip at 10' level and hem) Front 1 1/h 1 1/8 1 1/8 2 Back 1 7/8 1 1/8 1 5/8 2 Total 3 1/8 2 11; 2 31;; y: total of h tucks in front and 2 darts in back. had a B had a total of 2 darts in front and u in back. M had a total of h tucks in front and h darts in back. 8 had a total of 2 darts in front and 2 in back. 67 A COMPARISON OF THE MEASUREMENTS OF SIZE 1h% SLIM SKIRTS 1 Rating2 (smallest to largest) Maximum Variance WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE Front 1 B 3 M B Ba ck l M 3 Total circumference 3/h S A HIP CIRCUMEERENCES 7” below center front waist Front 3 5/8 g A M B Back 1 1/11 M s A Total circumference 2 7/8 2 A M 8 1/2' below center front waist Front 3 1/2 B S A Back 1 l/h ?M B Total circumference 2 B/h B S A 10" below center front waist ' Front 3 1/2 ‘ B S A Back 1 l/h M B S A S A Total circumference 2 3/h 1Listed in inches unless stated otherwise. laced one above the other indicate 2Pattern s bols ym, p tterns are the same. that the measurements of these Pa 68 Maximum Variance Rating (smallest to largest) WIDTHAAT LOWER EDGE OF SKIRT (measured at 28 3/h’ from.center front waist Front 3 l/h B S M Back 1 3/1 E M g Total circumference 3 3/h. B 3' S DARTS AND TUCKSl Front Lengths 1 S B Total depth (one side) 2 l/h S B A M Back Lengths 1 1/2 M B S .A T(:;: 323:) 1/2 S A M B Total depth at waistline 5 l/h S B A M ACTUAL LENGTHS TO HEM ON ALLrPATTERNS Center front 2 1/2 S B Side seam. 2 1/2 S B A Center back 2 5/8 S B A M 1A had a total of h tucks in front and 2 darts in back. B had a total of 2 darts in front and h in back. M had a total of h tucks in front and h darts in back. 8 had a total of 2 darts in front and 2 in back. 69 Maximum Variance Rating (smallest to largest) IENGTHS FROM WAIST TO HIP LEVEL 10" FROM CENTER FRONT B Side seam 1/L|. M A S Center back 1/2 S M A B SLOPE OF SIDE SEAMS Front 7/ 8 3 A Back 7/8 B 8 Total slope 1 3/11 B M s 7O 1 A SUMMARY OF EASE ALLOWANCES FOR ALL PATTERNS Size 11:. Basic Bodicgg Bust2 Waist B.W.L.3 Size ;4 Similar Bodices Bust Waist BeweLe Size 16 Similar Bodices Bust waist B.W.L. .3150 LILLSimilar Bodice_s_ Bust Waist BOwOL. L» 3 1/2 5 1/1 3 3/1 A 1/2 1 1/1 1/11 1/h 1/2 1/h. 1/8 3/8 1/2 m; 5/8 5 3 1/2 5 1/2 3 1/2 A 1/2 1 l/br 1/2 C 1 1m 1/1L 3/8 1/2 1/11 1/2 5 31/2 51/2 L» 5 1 3/1 1/11 0 3/1 1/1 1/ 2 3/ 8 1/2 3/8 1/2 5 1/2 3 1/2 6 A 1 1/1 3/1 2 1 1/8 l/h 1/2 1/11 1366 p. 2 for revised body measurement standards. 2 Corrected measurement . See p. S for explanation and P. 114. for diagrams of measurements. 3Back Uai st Length 71 A B M S H Size Slim Skirts waist 3/h 0 1/2 3/h l/h Hip“ 3 3/8 1 3/1 1 5/8 3 1 3/11 fire 16 Slim Skirt; waist 1 1/h O l/h 7/8 0 Rip 1 1 3/1 1 5/8 3 1/1 1 3/1 Size Llfi Slim Skirt; Waist 1 1/2 3/11 1 1/h 1 Hip 11 3/11 2 1/2 5 3/8 2 1/2 “A level line 7 inches from center front waist. 72 CHAPTER IV INTERPRETATIONS OF PATTERN MEASUREMENTS AND SHAPES, CONTOURS OF PATTERN SHELLS AND FIT OF GARMENTS The measurements for all of the patterns studied and the comparisons of those measurements were included in the preceding chapter. The fit of a garment cannot be Judged by only its pattern measurements. In this chapter we shall interpret their measurements in relation to the superimposed pattern pieces, the contours of the paper pattern shells, and the fit of the garments on the size 1n and lug women who par- ticipated in the study. The superimposed size 1h patterns are shown in one-half full size beginning on the next page. Pictures of one of the women wearing each of the five size lh dresses follow the superimposed patterns. SUPERIMPCSED SIZE 111 BASIC BODICE PATTERNS (Shown-one-half full Size) Bodice Fronts “our.“ '-.e-n -'e u 73 711 Bodice. Backs 7S Sleeves PHOTOGRAPHS OF SIZE 1h.BASIC DRESSES Measurements of Model: Bust 35 Waist 26 Hips 35 8- Back Waist Length 16 .1 Pattern A 76 Pattern B Pattern M 77 Pattern S Pattern V 78 79 INTERPRETATIONS 0F SIZE. 1J1 BASIC BODICES Neckline There were some very obvious differences among the patterns in the shapes of the necklines and in their fit on the women. The size and shape of the neckline not only affects the neck area, but can also influence and be in- fluenced by other areas of the bodice. Patterns A and S have the closest fitting necklines, but are not identical in fit. A is proportionately smaller than pattern S in front neck width and in the front neckline measurement as compared to the back. Yet, it has one of the narrowest back widths. It has more depth in front than pattern S and has the greatest total neck depth. Because of the narrowness of the front width in relation to the back and the deep front curve, this sharp arc tends to throw fullness to the upper bust area when the garment is on a figure. (See diagram and further explanation under discussion of bustlines, page 8h.) Pattern B is larger in the neckline than either A or 8. It is one of the widest both front and back, but is one of the smallest in back neck depth and in total depth. B ap- Pears to ride above the center front neck base on some women. This is generally due to the fact that the shoulder seam rides back because of the lack of back depth and the shaping 80 of the shoulder seam.(see page 81) rather than because of a lack of front neck depth. The neckline of pattern M is the widest and one of the highest in back. It, like A, is proportionately smaller in front neck width than it is in back, but is even more ex- treme in this respect. It is one of the deepest in front and its total neck circumference is the greatest. The extra back width often makes the back stand away from.the neckline or come up too high on the back of the neck. Part of this is also due to the greater shoulder slope. (See page 81.) On some figures the back width makes the neckline and shoulder seams ride forward. When this happens, and with the ample front neck depth, the neckline appears too low in front on some figures. The neckline of pattern M best fits the slightly stooped, sloping shouldered figure with slightly forward set of head. It gives the largest neckline effect on all the women studied. As mentioned previously, pattern S has one of the snuggest fitting necklines. The relationship of back and front widths is similar to B, but it is proportionately deeper in back than in front as compared to B, with the result that it has a different front to back balance than B. Unlike M, it best fits the straight shouldered figure with a rather straight back, a medium sized neck and an erect set of head. 81 Part of this is due to the neckline balance and part due to the shape of the shoulder seams. (See shoulders, below.) Pattern V is comparable to B in total circumference, but is more like S in front and back depth relationship. It is similar to B and S in the relationship of front and back widths. Its balance of fit is shmilar to 8 even though it has a larger total circumference than S. This similarity in neckline fit between S and V is also due in part to a similarity in the shapes of the shoulders. Shoulder Patterns A and B have the shortest shoulder lengths and are identical in this respect. M and V are longest through the shoulder. The shoulders of A and B are straight lines from neck to armscye. Patterns M and V have inward curves in the back shoulder. S has a slight inward curve in the front shoulder. This curving of the shoulder seam allows both the neckline and the shoulders of the garment to fit smoothly to the figure, as most figures have a curves shoulder line. Pattern A has the least shoulder slope, with B ranking nest. They are designed for the square shouldered type figure. N has the greatest shoulder slope. This is one reason why the neckline of pattern M.stands up in the back on some figures with higher shoulders. Because of pattern V's pronounced 82 shoulder curve and the fact that the total slope is rather high and the shoulder is long, this pattern takes a figure with a high tip of shoulder to hold up the back armhole end of the shoulder seam. Pattern S is medium in shoulder length, curve and slope. Chest Chest measurements were taken from.3 inches below neck base in front and from.h inches below neck base in back. They were at a right angle to center front and center back. On some patterns this line was at the narrowest chest point and in some instances it was not. The narrowest chest points were lower on all the backs, were above in the fronts of patterns A, B and V, and the narrowest front chest points were on the measurements line on patterns M and S. Pattern V is fullest through the upper front chest with 8 next fullest. The other patterns are identical in this measurement. M and V are fullest through the back chest. B is narrowest through the back chest and A is next narrowest. S is medium.in width. A mud B have the smallest back shoulder darts. S and V have the largest shoulder darts, swinging the excess out of the upper armhole to fit back shoulder contour. Pattern B is designed through the chest for a figure with a narrow front chest and a flat narrow back. Pattern A 33 is designed for a narrow front chest and a flat back, but wider in back than B. Although S has a fairly deep shoulder dart, because of its small back width it best fits a medium to straight back, and a front chest of moderate width. 7M and V best fit a rounded back chest and shoulder line, but M is best suited for a comparatively narrow front chest while V best fits a wider front chest. 21621193 Patterns V and M have the lowest bust levels. B and A have the highest levels. V has the greatest width between bust points, S is next widest and A, B and M are identical. 'M is largest through the bust, having the greater pro- portion of fullness through the front rather than the back. However, M.is one of the largest patterns through the back bustline also. S also carries a larger proportion of full- ness through the front bust by comparison with other patterns. B is tightest through the bustline, especially in the front. It is the narrowest of the patterns in front bustline width, but is not as narrow as S in back. M and V have rather low, rounded back bustlines. B and S are the flattest in back. A is one of the fullest through the bust and is full Its front bust fullness is carried but appears both front and back. high. V is one of the fullest through the bust, fuller Just under the bust than over it on many figures, 81+ often giving the effect of pushing down on the bust. These differences of ease between A and V in the upper front bust areas are due in part to the arc of the front necklines. The diagram below compares the arc of A and V necklines. Pattern A is narrower in front and has a deeper curve. V'has less depth in front and has greater front width. When garment A is on the figure, the front neckline curve tends to straighten somewhat to line up with the extra back width and to fit the neck and as it does so it throws fullness to the area below the arc. The balance of front to back width of neckline V is more nearly equal than that of pattern A. This fact plus the shallower front neckline are along with the curve of the shoulder seam causes the neckline to ride closer at the side of the neck. This increases the arc and thereby pulls ease from below the are at the upper bustline. 0n the diagram.above, the solid lines are the actual pattern 85 shapes shown in one-half full size and the dotted lines show how the arc tends to change on the figure. The underarm dart of pattern A is deeper than the front waist dart and is deeper than the underarm darts in the other patterns. A.and B have the smallest front waist darts. All of the patterns except A have deeper waist darts than underarm darts. V has the smallest underarm dart and the deepest waist dart. Pattern M has the greatest bustline ease allowance. The other patterns rated from.greatest to least bustline ease are: V, A, S, and B. The bustline of pattern A is good for an erect posture, medium full bust and high chest. B is designed for a small, high bust and a flat back. M is best for a full, lower bust and a rounded back. 8 is good for a medium.bust height, a medium full bust, a fairly flat back and an erect posture. V best fits a full lower bust with a rather flat, but wide lower chest and upper bust, and a rounded back. Side of Body at Scye Line Pattern V has the least width at the side of the body on the scye line. (See diagram on page 1h, parts 13a and 13b.) It has the shallowest bodice armscye curves and is designed for the figure that is narrow in this side width at underarm. Pattern 8 is next narrowest in this measurement. 86 Pattern A is widest at the side of the body and B and M are close seconds. These comparisons will be em- phasized further in the discussion of rib cage which follows. Rib C e Pattern A is fullest through the rib cage. Its front waist darts are not as deep as most of the other patterns and the darts are ruler-straight, not curved. All of the front waist darts on the other patterns are curved inward to some extent, which makes the garments fit more smoothly to the rib cage below the bust. The waist darts of pattern M have the most curve and S has the next most curved darts. B and V have slightly curved front waist darts. Pattern A, because of its width at side of body and its fullness through the front rib cage is designed for a figure that is rather thick from front to back in the bustline area and below it. Pattern B is one of the smallest through the rib cage, but because of its prOportionately smaller bust, on some figures it has diagonal folds below the side bust. This is usually an indication that the bust is too tight rather than that the rib cage is too large. Both the front and back waist darts have very little curve. It is one of the widest at the side of the body. B best fits a figure with a flat lower back and a small bust, but one that is comparatively 87 thick from front to back in the rib cage below the bust. Pattern Mfls most extremely curved and deep bust darts make it fit tighter through the front rib cage than the other patterns. Its back waist darts are also one of the deepest. In comparing this portion of the body with its full scyeline and bustline, we find that M gives a more tapering silhouette from.ecye to waist than do most of the other gar- ments. V has this tapering line also. Pattern S ranks about medium in the degree of full- ness and tapering line through the rib cage. It is narrower than A at the side of the body, but not as narrow as M. Its curved front bust darts make it fit more snugly through the front rib cage than A, but not as snugly as M. Its front and back waist darts rank about medium in depth. Pattern V, like M, tapers more in its circumferences from.bustline to waist than do the other patterns. It does not have as deeply curved bust darts as M, but it has the deepest front waist darts and very sloped side seams. V is one of the tightest at the lower rib cage, but is fuller than most just below the bust. ‘Waigtline The waist circumferences of B, M and V are smallest and are similar. Pattern A has the largest waistline measure- ment, as might be expected from the discussion of its rib 88 cage. Pattern S is slightly larger in waist circumference than B, M and V. waist Lengths Pattern V is longest at center front, S is second with.M and A close thirds. 8 does not appear as long in front in the paper shells and when the garment is on a figure because it does not have as large a bustline as do A, M and V. On many figures, especially those with compara~ tively small front busts, M and V dip in front at the waist- line--V being most noticeable. A does this, too, but less frequently. B is shortest at center front and over the bust and is also one of the shortest in back. V is longest in back. Next is M, then B, S and A. V carries a great deal of its back length from.shoulder to scye level. (See discussion of bodice armscyes which follows.) The side seams of M, S and V are shortest, A's are next shortest and B's are longest. B's side seams come up highest under the arms, sometimes creating a puff in the armscyes at the side of the bust. Part of this is its greater length on side seams and part is due to the greater slope of side seams from.ecye to waist, as shown in the illustration on the following page. The greatex~the slope from scye to waist, the higher the top of the seam.will rise under the arm. 89 < ‘ Scye Lines - -—> - Fig. 1. Fig. 2 The side seam sharply sleped from scye to waist (see broken lines in Figure 1 as compared to average slope of solid seam line) causes the seam to rise and possiblz buckle under the arm, as in Figure . Pattern V also has pronounced slope in its side seams, but has longer armscyes and shorter side seams so that the seams do not come up as high at the bottom of the armscyes as B. (See discussion of bodice armscyes.) Pattern A has least slope from scye to waist at the side seams. ‘godice Armmcyes The shape and resulting fit of the armscye is in- fluenced by many factors, including the shape of the front and back curves, the circumference of the armscye, the front and back depths and their relation to each other, the slope of the side seams and shoulder seams, the depth of the shoulder and underarm.darts, and the chest widths. Pattern V and M have the shallowest curves and the greatest length in the back armscyes. These two patterns, 90 along with pattern A, often appear too long in the back armscyes and puff out in folds at the lower armscyes on figures with flat backs and comparatively small arms. V is most noticeable in this respect. In some instances this extra length in the back armscye in V can be folded out the entire width of the back. Pattern A has the greatest armscye cir- cumference, but V appears longest on.most figures as its armscye curves are most shallow. Pattern B has the deepest back curve. A, M and 3 have the deppest front curves, in that order. The shape of the armscye of pattern V as seen in the paper pattern shells is a long oval. Pattern B is the short- est and widest oval with the shoulder seam at the exact center of the top. Pattern A has the next shortest oval and is next widest. S has a medium sized oval and, like B, the shoulder seam.is at the top of the oval. The armscye end of the shoulder seams in the paper shells of A, M and V ride to the front of the armscye oval. This is due in part to the fact that the ratio of back depth to front depth is greater in these patterns than in patterns B and 8. On a figure that cannot take care of this greater back depth, it shows up as a forward seam in pattern M and in pattern V (and sometimes in A) as a buckling in the back armscye. As explained under the discussion of necklines, pattern M is widest in the back 91 neckline, which allows its shoulder seams to ride forward on figures with straight backs and small to medium back necks. Pattern S is the only one that has a slightly curved underarm.bust dart. Also the bodice of pattern 8 is better sculptured to follow the rounding of the body from.center front to armhole, resulting in a smoother and less conspicuous armhole line. This sculptured effect is also to some extent evident in pattern A. The armscyes of patterns A and M take care of a rounded back and big arms. M is best for a fleshy figure with big arms and a broad back. The armscye of pattern B is broad and will take care of a fairly large arm, but because of.its shorter oval and sloping side seams, it rides up more than any other pattern under the arm. (See discussion under waist lengths.) Pattern B does not allow for a rounded back. Pattern S is well balanced front to back in the armscye and is especially good for the erect figure,with a flatter back than required by A, M.and V, and mediumpsized arms. The armscye of pattern V requires a figure that is high at the tip of the shoulder and has a rounded back to take care of the back length. Because of its shallow armscye curves, it is not as good as A and M for fleshy arms. $2.0m Patterns M, S and V have the most sleeve cap ease. B has the least ease and is narrowest through cap width. V is 92 longest in cap height, often showing excess length on smaller arms. B also appears this way under similar conditions. B is smallest through the wrist and slimmest through its entire length, but is the next longest sleeve - S is longest. The length of the sleeve of pattern B seems out of proportion with the length of the bodice. Pattern M is fullest throughout its length and has the largest wrist. A has the next largest wrist, then 8. We elbow is highest and it is one of the shortest sleeves. A is also short. A, M and S are full through the upper arm, but 3 has the smallest wrist, next to B. S. and B have the lowest elbow darts. V is fairly full through the girth, but is slim at the elbow. The elbow darts of V sometimes appear low, but not as low as S and B. Pattern A sleeve is designed for a full upper arm and fairly full lower arm. B is best for a long, slim arm with most of its length through the upper arm. M is best for an arm that is full through its entire length and has a short upper arm. S sleeve will fit a full upper arm that tapers from elbow to wrist. Pattern V will fit an arm that is full through the girth, requires a high sleeve cap and tapers from girth to elbow. SUPERIMPOSED SIZE 11;. SLIM SKIIH' PATTERNS (Shown one-half full size) Skirt Front s q. i nun-M" . ' i f : g t 5 , . g. . i E ‘- 5 i 5 93 91L Sld.rt Backs 95 INTERPRETATIONS 0F SIZE 1h SLIM SKIRTS (diagrams on preceding pages) Waistline The waist circumferences of patterns B, M.and V are smallest in the skirts as they are in the bodices. However, M allows slightly more ease in the skirt waistline than in the bodice waistline, as does 8. Patterns A and B allow less ease in their skirt waistlines than in their bodice waistlines. Pattern A,is proportionately bigger in front waistline measurement than back measurement as compared to the other patterns. M is next largest proportionately in front, with S and V shmilar. B is most nearly equal in front and back waistline‘measurements. Pattern A has the greatest total dart depth at the waistline. S has next greatest dart depth and then V,‘M and B, respectively. All have deeper darting in back than in front, except V. The front and back darting of M is almost equal. The are of the waistlines is illustrated and explained in relation to the discussion of hips which follows. Hips Hip circumference measurements were taken at 7-inch, 8 1/2-inch and lO-inch levels. Pattern a 1. largest through 96 all hip levels. 3 is next largest. M is smallest through all hip levels. The hip circumferences of B and V are identical, tmt V is preportionately larger in front than in back as compared to all the other patterns. Pattern A ranks next in difference between front and back measurements. The side seams of A and V are behind the center of the body on some figures. Pattern S has the same measurements both front and back at all hip levels. B's measurements front and back are quite similar. M is wider in front than in back, but the difference is not as great as that of A and V. Pattern A has a high side hip curve and continues to curve through the hip line. This high curve is due in part to the curve of the seam.end in part to the depth of the hip darts. (See discussion of waistlines.) B has a low side hip curve. 8 has a greater side hip curve than some of the patterns, but it is not as great or as high as A and is more gradual. M's side hip curve is next highest to A, but does not continue with as much curve as A. V has an even side hip curve similar to S. B has the least side hip curve even though the curve of the side seam is greater than most of the patterns. This is because of its shallower darts. B and M have the flattest back hips. V is next flattest. V does not have as much width through the back as B. but the greater are at the waistline of V throws a -' Center Front ,/ f ; ’ i H R _____B I L," ————M , v ' E Cbnter ‘ l ' Back Tops of size 14 skirts (shown one-half full size) I with darts folded out to show arcs of waistlines. 98 proportionately greater amount of fullness from the waist- line. The diagrams on the previous page, of the skirt tops with the darts folded out show waistline arcs and hip curves in one-half full size. The solid lines indicate dart posi- tions and lengths. Pattern A has the greatest width through the front hip level. V is next greatest. V's front darts are closest to the side seams and are deeper than most of the front darts in the other patterns. The dart placement, dart size and deep are at the side of the front waistline throw fullness over the hip bone area. Pattern S has the shortest darts in front and they are placed closest to center front. The waist- line of S has a deep arc at this point, with the result that fullness is provided over the stomach area. Pattern B has the least arc in the front waistline, has the smallest front darting and is the tightest in the uppergarea of the skirt front. Pattern A best fits a figure with a high side hip curve and full hips, carrying the greater proportion of full- ness through the front of the body. Pattern B best fits a figure with small hips, a flat stomach and back and little curve at the side. M best fits a figure with small hips and fairly high side curve. 99 Pattern 8 fits a full hip with equal fullness front and back at the hip level and a rounded stomach area. Pattern V is designed for a figure with slim hips, high hip bones and one that requires proportionately greater ease through the front hip level than the back. Lengths from Waist to Hingevel Patterns A and V are longest over the hips at the side seams. (This is in keeping with the conclusions drawn above.) M is next longest and B is shortest. However, B is longest at center back and A is close to it. On many figures this extra length in the center back of B in comparison to the side length causes the skirt to wrinkle between the back hip and waist. On figures with waistlines that dipped in back or with high back hips, A, M and V also had these wrinkles to a lesser degree. Pattern S is shortest at center back, having the same length as center front. The side seams of S hung straighter on the majority of the women who participated in the study than did the side seams of any of the other skirts. ‘Slgpe of Side Seams Pattern B has greatest slope from hip to hem.and the slope is even on front and back seams. S has next bBCke greatest slope with slightly more in front than in 100 A and V are similar and have an even amount of slope of front and back. M has the least slope and the slope is greater in front than it is in back. Patterns A and 8 have the greatest circumference at the hems. B is next greatest, than V and the slimmest is M. (The difference in total circumference is very little.) lOl INTERPRETATIONS OF SIZE 1kg PATTERNS The interpretations of the differences in the measure- ments, shapes and contours among the size lh% patterns are generally similar to their respective size 1h patterns. There are some notable exceptions. The back shoulder seam.ef pattern A, size lh%, has is a slight inward curve which makes it fit to the curve of the normal shoulder line better than its size 1h does. Size lh% L- A also has a proportionately deeper anmscye, longer sleeve and lower elbow dart. The bust and hip ease in size lhé are much greater in size lh% than in size 1h. The shoulder seam of pattern B in size lhé also has a slight inward curve that it does not have in size 1h. The skirt of size 14% M has much greater ease in the waistline and hips than size 1h. The slope of the front side seam.is greater than the lepe of the back in size 1h. In size lh% the reverse is true. Pattern S is much shorter in shoulder length in size is; than in size 1h. See the following chapter for a complete summary of the characteristics of each of the various size lh§ patterns. 102 CHAPTER V SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS This study shows that even though body measurement standards have been approved by commercial dress pattern companies, there are significant differences in the measure- ments, shapes, and contours of garments made from.patterns by different pattern companies. These differences are so pronounced in some areas as to create or eliminate alteration problems in comparable patterns from.different companies. The average home sewer can have a better-fitting garment with less fitting problems by selecting not only the pattern size, but also the pattern brand best suited to her figure type. A summary of the findings for each of the various kinds of patterns, as compared to body measurement standards, follows. 103 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF MISSES PATTERNS FROM EACH COMPANY AS RELATED TO INDIVIDUAL FIGURE TYPES Pattern A Neck - small to medium, wider in back and narrow in front, deep front neck base Shoulders - short to medium length, straight, high and erect ‘thgt - narrow in back, narrow to medium.in front Bustline - erect posture, medium.to high front bust, full front and back Rib cage - full, deep front to back. Armscyes - large, wide, proportionately longer and fuller in back than in front Arms - short to medium.length, full upper arm, fairly full lower arm, medium.to large wrist ‘Waist lengths - proportionately longer at center front than at center back, comparatively straight from scye to waist 'Uaistline - large Hips - full back, very full front, high side hip curve, long over the hips at side of body, long from.center back waist to hips 10h Pattern B M - medium to wide from side to side, thin front to back Shoulders - short to medium.length, straight, fairly high, erect ‘thgt - narrow front and back, flat back L Bustline - erect posture, small front and back, 1 high front, flat back Rib cage - rather small but large in propertion to bust, small to medium depth front to back, flat back Armscyes - short, fairly wide Arms - long, especially long through the upper amm, slum, small wrist 1en ths - short center front and center back, waist g quite tapered from scye to waist Uaistline - small Hips - small, flat back and front, little side hip curve, long at center back 105 Pattern M Egg; - large, wide in back, narrow in front, high back neck base, low front neck base Shoulders - long, slightly stooped, rounded in back, sloping Qpppp - narrow in front, wide in back Bustline - large, full front bust, medium to low in front, low and rounded line in back Rib cage - small in front Armscyes - medium, longer and fuller in back than in front Aggg_- full, short to medium in length, short upper arm, large wrist waist lengths - long at center front compared to center back, short to medium from shoulder to waist at side 'Waistline - small to medium Hips - small fairly high side hip curve - slimming to hips, flat back . P ' I."WAL'.'-" 106 Pattern 8 Neck - small to medium, well proportioned front to back and side to side, medium front neck base Shoulders - medium length and slope, erect, comp paratively flat back Chest - medium.wide front, rather narrow and straight back Bustline - medium with greatest proportion of fullness through front bust, comparatively flat in back, medium to high front bust, erect posture Rib cage - small to medium Armscyes - medium, well proportioned (erect figure) Arms - full upper arm, tapering from.elbow to wrist, rather long, rather low elbow, small wrist gth at center front, medium Waist lepgths - medium len to short in back, medium side length ‘Waistline - medium Hips - full back, ample but gradual side hip curve coming rather low, rounded stomach 107 Pattern V Neck - medium, well-proportioned front to back and side to side, medium front neck base Shoulders - long, medium.slope, curved shoulder with high tip at armscye, rounded in back Chest - wide through front and back, comparatively flat in front and rounded in back Bustline - full front and back, medium to low front with fullness at lower bust, rounded back Rib cage - small to medium, tapering markedly to waist, comparatively narrow front to back Armscyes - deep, narrow, proportionately longer and fuller in back than in front Arms - long through upper arm, fairly full girth tapering to elbow Waist len ths - long center front and center back with great deal of back length from.shoulder to scye level, short to medium.st side, quite tapered from scye to waist Waistline - small total circumference, wide through front Hips - small, flat back, prominent hip bones 108 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF HALF SIZE PATTERNS FROM.EACH COMPANY AS RELATED TO INDIVIDUAL FIGURE TYPES Pattern A Neck - small to medium, wider in back and narrow in front, deep front neck base Shoulders - medium.to long, high, erect i Chest — medium in back, narrow to medium.in front Bustline - erect posture, medium to high front bust, full front and back Rib cage - full, deep front to back Armscyes - large, wide, proportionately longer and fuller in back than in front Arms - medium length, full upper arm, fairly full lower arm, medium.to large wrist ‘Haist lepgths - proportions front than at center back, comparatively straight from tely longer at center scye to waist ‘Waistline - very large Hips — full, very full front, high side hip curve long over hips at side of body 109 Pattern B M - medium to wide from side to side, thin front to back Shoulders - medimm length, fairly high, erect 'gpppp - medium front, narrow flat back Bustline - erect posture, small front and back, high front, flat back Rib cage - rather small but large in proportion to bust, small to medium depth front to back, flat back Armscyes - short, fairly wide ‘Agm§_- medium length, slim, small wrist Waist lengths - short center front and center back, quite tapered from scye to waist waistline - small to medium Hip; - small, flat back and front, little side hip curve, long at center back 110 Pattern M 'Nppk - large, wide in back, high back neck base (front neck could not be measured) Shoulders - long, slightly stooped, rounded in back, sloping 9p2p2_- wide in back Bustline - large, full front bust, medium.to low in front, low and rounded line in back Rib cage - small to medium in front Armscyes - mediwm, longer and fuller in back than in front Arms - full (length could not be measured) ‘Haist lengths - long at center front compared to center back, short to medium from shoulder to waist at side Waistline - medium.to large Hips - very full, fairly high side hip curve 111 Patterns N223 - small to medium, well proportioned front to back and side to side, medium front neck base Shoulders - short to medium, medium.slope, erect, comparatively flat back ‘gpppp - narrow to medium frent and back, rather straight back Bustline - medium with greatest proportion of full- ness through front bust, comparatively flat in back, medium to high front bust, erect posture Rib cgge - medium Armscyes - medium, well proportioned (erect figure) _A_r__ms_ - medium length, full upper arm, tapering from elbow to wrist, small wrist waipt_length§ - medium.length at center front, medium to short in back, medium side length waistline - medium Hips - full back, ample but gradual side hip curve coming rather low, rounded stomach 112 CHAPTER VI SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER STUDY The potentials of this type of investigation have only been partially explored in this thesis. Other styles of garments could be studied in misses and half sizes. Girls, teen and junior sizes could be comp pared as a special help to home economics teachers and home economics extension specialists working with.h-H groups. The writer plans to try the garments made for this thesis on many more women as an aid to pattern comparison and selection, and to perhaps draw further conclusions in regard to fitting. - a Q P - w .- r '2 ‘ V; 3M: J (17". 22 2 m F" ‘| 1'11“ 18 6 -. 4.1139 ‘ U shit-H” FEB i. Date Due a. ‘4 “I ‘5 1960 1962 .30 '\ 3% 29 ‘ I 3*. l i 7 3' ‘i ‘ NM 01229312