AN ECONOMIC STUDY OF CHILDREN’S CLOTHING AGES ram-INCLUSIVE ' mm FOR THE DEG-BEE OF-M, A. Mary M Pennington : _ ' ° ” 1934' - 9": Wm: i y W“. Mm y OVERDUE Flflfi: 25¢ Per day per it. RETUM M U V M ”M: Place in book return to my. film from circulation records A}? BC CITCTJI C STUDY OF CHTLD?FII'S CLO’FHIZIG GES 2-7 Irczrsxvs v '"-"."‘-~.'f‘" n cm 7" n“ ~371- hf-“WI flrnmuvm L\ :.U‘..'.LO\J-' Its, ~ *1. JY V: o.A.§JJ-r 144‘! VU\,’J .-‘-IU AA“ A ~r1’fyv TY'“ h\-.:.S (:‘7 I. v-‘-S‘ i:— ML'C‘CTS ‘.AJVA vaiittfi‘d t0 the Fnculty Of my“ v . .fl "1 \‘AA “an StFte College 'Jo J i in Prrtiél Fulfillment of the chuir9mgnts far the Degree of firster cf Arts. .357 ch! cf 7’ J O h. Pennlngtan M ‘ o ’r‘r; ‘r “‘er THEE"? CONTENTS Chapter I. Introduction A. Purposes of the Stui B. Revien of Literature Chapter II. Kethod A. Devel pment of the Stuiy B. The Samfle Chapter III. Finiings A. Content of Wardrobes Types and Numbers of Girls' Garments Home Seeing Garments Handed Donn Types and Sunbers of Boys' Garments Home Bering Garments Hanied Down B. Costs of Wardrozes Girls Boys C. Durability of Ga ments Chapter IV. Conclusions A. Coa;arison of Contsnt of Girls' and Boys' Wardrobes B. Home Sewing C. Handed Down Garments D. Average Warirobes at Different Ages Chapter V. Summary .-\ BibliOgraphy Appendix Fab (‘3 D) Table II III IV VI VII VIII IX XI XII XIII XIV XVI XVII XVIII Title Distribution of Studies According to Ages of Children Occupations of Fatners of Cniliren Studied Size of Faailies Regresented Outdoor Garments Worn by Girls in One Yea Dresses and Playsuits Worn by Girls in One Year Footwear Worn by Girls in One Year Number of Panties ger Girl Worn by Different Age Groups Underclothing and Sleeging Garments Worn by Girls in One Year Miscellaneous Articles Used by Girls in One Year Number of Home Made ani Made Over Garments for Girls of Different Age Groups Comparison of the Amount of Home Sewing per Girl With the Number of Older Brothers and Sisters in the Family Comparison of Number of Older Chiliren in the Family With the Number of Handed Donn Garments per Girl Studied Number and Type of Handed Down Garments in Girls' Warlrobes Outdoor Garments Worn by Boys in One Year Number of Boys' Suite for Different Age Groups Suits, Trousers and Play Suits Worn by Boys in One Year in Different Age Grougs Footwear Worn by Boys in One Year in Different Age Groubs Underclotning and Slee;ing Garments Worn by Boys in One Year in Different A56 Grougs 33 34 37 38 XIX XX XXIII XXIV XXV XXVI XXVII XXVIII XXIX XXX XXXIa b c XXXIIa b 0 List of Tables, cont. Miscellane us Articles torn by Boys in One Year in Different Age Grougs Number of Home Made and Made Over Garments for Boys of Different A53 Groups Number and Tyye of Handed Donn Garments in Boys' Wardrobes Comparison of Number of Older Children in the Family With the Number of Handed Down Garments per Boy Studied lardrobes Median and Nean Costs of Girls' Range of Prices of Ready Made Garments for Girls Median and Mean Costs of Wardrobes for 47 Boys Studied Range of Prices of Ready Nade Garments for Boys Coiparison of Nurber of Outdoor Garments for Boys and Girls of Different Age Grougs Number of All Outdoor Garments per Child According to Age Grouse Number of Indoor Outer Garments :er Child Aceoriing to Age Groups Hoaemade Garments in Girls' and Boys' Wardrobes s for es for es for Averag' Warir Averac Averas‘ Girls, Age d-S Girls, Age 4-5 Girls, Age 6~7 I L (I {u H 3 h 07 (b (D n) .. H :3: p: F O O C} 3-3 4-5 6-7 for for for Wardrobes Wardrobes Wardrobe” Avera Averavr Averaée Boys, Age Boys, Age Boys, Ave UV 0 0“! (u (D :0 Life of Everyday Garients in Medium Condition in Relation to the Total Number of Everyday Garments in the Wardrobe Homemade Garments in Girls' and Boys' Wardrobes 44a 46 57 6O 66 71 Chapter I Introduction af— (‘0 Chapter I Introduction In the light of recent scientific investigation, it has become increasingly evident that clothes for the Child have a definite bearing ugon his future physical, mental and psycholo- gical development. Because the few clothing studies made have been so outnumbered by studies on foods and the field in clothing research is so full of possibilities, it was thought best first to discover what were the actual practices of certain middle class mothers in clothing their children. It was heped such a study might form the basis for further work and suscest pOdsible tOpics for later clothing research. a: A. Purposes of the Study __h““ {I‘ '~ 4' I ~.1. ’_-‘ f ‘1 " , I“ ‘- V' i -. “3 were to discover by the ‘“‘The"'puri¢eéd Of this inventory method the average content, _hewg9st, and_durability \> 1 f - of the aardrobes of children,_ages S_to%$5years, inciuvf*6739f a M LC km». 4;: familie serrtn~~i~ncorr.es._no.t_under...1.’1:.?._LQO_Q.130.0z1 over..i‘r‘.‘5.,\§l;i).l CO per. .year;Cdlso to discover to what extent mothers of moderate income families did home sewing and to «net extent garments were handed down eitne’ within the family or from outside_the immediate ' family. It was hoped the information obtained night be helpful to teachers in planning their lessons on children's clothing; to mothers of moderate income families in planning budgets for tneir children's clothing, and in comparing he content of their child's wardrobe with that of others; and, to some extent, to manufacturers \ ' \ in making clothing for Children. 3- Eerie:.9§-£ii3re§yre- As one of the three fundamental needs of a child, clothing has received some share of research attention in the last fifteen years. The Bireau of Home Economics in the United States Department of Agriculture (1) has Tublished ei5ht leaflets on the tyre and construction of children's clothing. Thirteen studies were found relatin5 to the amount of none senin5 done, and a study of the c0st of the child's sardrobe has been inclu- ded in the United States Degsrtment of Lab or study of the Cost of Living in the United States made in 1915-19 (2). The statis- tics found in the latte r study have been analyzed to BOue de5ree by Kay Cowles of the University of Wisconsin. Other books such as Economics of the Household by Benjamin H. Andrews and The Economics of Consun tion by Paul Nystrom have made estiuates on the exyenditure of families for clothing based upon statistics previously obtained. In all these studies, however, very little has been done on the actual practices of middle class families in clothing their of .ildren durin5 tne year. A standard for certain 5arnents of children's clot ing has been set up, tie an cunt of lone senin5 has been studied at different times and gel ces in the United States and the amount spent by industrial families durin5 the year of 1318-19 has been investi5ated. To the writer's Ruchled5e, however, only one other study has been made on the actual prac- tices of mothers of moderate incomes in the selection and cost of 8133! 1338018 LUIU Lu children's wardrobes (3). This st dy was he Alford on the fractices of 45 families of moderate incohes in (l) U.S Department of A5riculture, Leaflets Ho. 11, 24, 26, 53, 54, 63, 79, BO. (2) U. S. Departaent of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, 00st of Living in the United States, Bul 357 p.164, 174, s50, 362. w---”—'w--—--~---O- ., (3) Bessie Lulu Alford, "Clothoin5_ of Ch119?99_§”95 One to Six" Th esis, i.A. de5r ee at university of hica‘5 o, Decenser T§31. Chicago in the selection of 310thing for pre-scnool children. These data «ere collected :resuaably during tne same period as those of the present study. In her study not only the number and type of garments worn by these 25 boys and 35 5ir1s were considered but also the construction of the garment, th price range of the garments, and the buying practices of the nothers. In 1919 a study was made by the United States Department of Agriculture covering representative rural homes in 33 Northern and Western States. Of the 9,734 fanilies reporting, 86 per cent in the eastern states, 94 her cent in the central states, and 95 per cent in the western "tates did home seeing. Tne loner proyor- tion in the eastern states, where shopping centers are p esumably the more accessable, is interesting (1), (3). Seventy-five per cent of the farm women did a large fart of their own seeing. Tee first study to emphasize home seeing for children was made in 1930 of 1,430 families living in 10 counties of .1" Illinois. Tne results o these, as summarised by K. Wilkerson, shored that 63.7 fer cent of the families having children nude children's clothing (1). In 1833 C. M. Brown made an investigation of 60 married 5arduates of home economics courses, 32 ger cent of whom had .child en. One-third of these women made gractically all of their children's clothing. Fifty per cent 5rofessed to enjoy making clothes (3). These moths s sexed for their children more than themselves because "children's clothes are easier to make" and (D a vant p, m "can be made from used materials to a C‘” O recus Publication No. (:0 (l) U.S.Department of Agriculture, Uiscell 4. Trends in HomeESeging, gage 3. (2) U.S.Department of A5riculture, Department Circular 148, The Farg_fp§anjsrfggblem§, p. 8, 19. - .- I (3) Clara K. Brown, Are We Justified in Teaching Clothing A- .7.. -——---- —-———-.~.—-------.——w-w— 999533593595, J. H. mil-5113237 eo-so. 5. In 1916 a study of he congarative costs of reproducing ' r“ ‘ -r f’v-r‘ - "K .‘ q...— - \ >v -‘ .. . “L,- .r~ ' ; V‘r- ~v “ “ ‘ ’- ‘ ready made garments was made sit; he time of naniné considered. The author concluded that "for the busy woman sho wants single *5. garments of good material there is little saving in nah n5 tnem at hone" (1). Three studies made on hone seting were summarized in 1937 by the Bureau of Eons Economics (2). From as Bureau of Home Economics study, 40 per cent of the rural notaers made cotton dresses for .heir children while only 38 per cent of city mothers (over 5,000) made them. For wool dresses tne averages 20 per cent respectiVely for the rural and were 33 per cent an‘ city mothers. Teenty per cent of the rural mothers nade boys' suits as com arsd to 13.5 per cent of the city mothers. Forty- five per cent of tne rural aotners made sleeging garments as compared to 31 rer cent of the city nothers. Erasers and bloomers eere made by 41 and 27 per cent of the mothers, respec- tively and petticoats by 36 an” 26 per cent respectively. It nay be notices in all cases that the rural mothers did more sexing han the city mothers. A very extensive study of cost of living of families in the United States was made in 1919-19 covering 12,29 families in 93 cities in 43 states. Within this study here figures showing the expenditure for the various garments of children's clothing for the year. Here it was found for the 3,633 families having girls O~4 years old, the eXgenditure per year for clothing per child averaged $33.68 for all incomes and $87.56 for all incomes (1) Charlotte Gibbs Baker, gaudy, J.H.Ec. 8(1916) 448-450. (3),U.S.Deyartment of Acricdlture, Miscellaneous Publication 3 . 4. Trends in hone Seeing, pass 8. -.-- —.-—-—.--—--.~- 6. over 32,190.3‘. Similarly for tne Girls from 4 years and under 8 years rerresenting 3,538 families, the exgenditure per child averaged 333.53 for all incomes and $43.52 for incomes over 93,1;3. For the boys under 4 years of age (1) tne expenditure for clothing averaged $35.99 for all incomes and $94.57 for incomes over $2,130. Using these figures an average of 1.7 per cent of the incene was s,ent for tne clothing of children under rer cent for boys A. U ‘Jl 4 years old a 3 :er cent for girls and 1.7 for children 4 rears old and under 6 years old on the average of all incomes. In 1918 the hontnly Labor Review published a study of the clothing expenditure of 100 wage earning families in the New York Ship-building district with an annual average income of $1,395.07. An average of $33.30 was spent during the year 39.60 for girls both of ages 4 to 7 :1; for boys as compared to . years. For children 3 years old and under an average of $19.10 was spent for boys as compared to $98.36 for girls (8). (l; Representing 3,848 families, 4,347 children. (8 Monthly Labor Review, sptemher, 939, p. 118. Egarjs 9122.1ss-§i.1;-9:..129.Eyelashes"- Tess. Eersesaipjfl “York §ssprisa ' ' gter II Cha Method Chapter II 15:3t-l0d The actual value of any piece of research work is de3endent upon the caref11neee of the flan worked out at use erasle time and tnougnt «ere e ent Lb beginning Tierefore, consi on de velo “:1 .2 the metnod for the study .nic. is nere described U in t1 e ho‘: e it nay ne p ctners glanning a sinilar study. \‘p' A @19395219315113921925951. .{i' "’4‘ ~\’ In order to obtain tne necessar" data, a questionnaires was worked out classifying tne types of children's clotning tnat\. would prosably be worn by tnese cnildren. In formulating tnis . -f‘ ‘~——__ A". a modified form of tne classification from the U.S.Bureau of Labor Study of 1818 «as used. (1). To gain a more COnplete ficture of tne actual content of a child's xardrobe, the present study was planned to includ I I I I all of the ga rzzen nts worn by the children during tne one year, j ‘7' A. nhen they were purchased, and tseir Chfif¢3u€r as indicated by [ ° \ o w l their fiber. 1 5.— H To de teraine tn e cost of tne sarn:ents it was decided a g to list in separate columns tne cost as gurc¢ased from tne store, ! I as made at home, as made over and as nanded do n. Tnis groceiuref . L L s a would 1self to discover to «sat extent notners in~modsrata~ieceme;« - *did acne sesin wnat ty;es of garaents here nade, azd. to snat ente1t earnents aere outcroan an; nanded doun.z Itmase ; noe~a—t ioxl‘LOImfluiOHWCO¢ i.be,con aredwslt_.otner~obteineéuby. fmvttrSrBtrr ease—48 WW.)— . '(1) Bulletin 357 U. Q.B:rean of Labor. (3) U.S. De3a1tnent of L riculture, iiscellaneogs Publication no. 4. Trenfils in 4'. £0.16 5‘3;- -11i, *flw—c-w—ow—w I" K"- C; I: 3 #b " ‘ - ' _. . . .c' , TO J7¥€EHI§3 tne—actual a¢0dnt Oi rOHdV year y tne fa.1ly, it .18 tneulnt best to i;dicate aifts Ossible and to ac 35 t estimates of tueir money value in order to estiuate nore accurately “:1 gould nave been one cost to tne anily if no gifts had been received. To measure tne durability of the average :ar rrents for (.1 l.’ "')}". ('.2“ 3L- ’2, nch 3“t&%¢vd~+~10£zfi boys and birls,r .xae-rlan wed t5llfld1vdt‘ and wnet.er it see worn inte garnent, tne nuabe r of C 1,". It) (4" ‘M'Wc" U-LOEI 833 seasons tne r.llt56 cnild med necessary "I. -, e '1 - - .0 Seat u: re— ,1 N +-n‘n UrOU-L~31 D ment, or constantly as an ever*d;‘ y g;m reent. Tne tontn an tnat all garments were ;urch sad and the coalition of the Ear were inc luded.:) Tre folloning s-need_as_a_rating. 3 1e: ' E. Excellent, oerfe t or n W. Good, stron», good olor. 3; Fair, morn out earaole, few good ;atc;es. 5. Poor but still we :aracle, may be ”etc-ed, darned W. Worn out. It was taouént gaiuents handed donn from older and sisters a int sno; very -ell tne iiI‘Sfi ts. In tnemcaseeof~tannea—1oan t; 1.060 deans/1'3 ._-- ——’ ;ee Of —“__..__.— v—‘- “garsenteeiezxzswylanned - l tqwé:teflGGmefiivrtee~aangfiwaniflt;¢emofrre:r“Uf*tre_freeentnoaner —- .0 .— -------——<~. ‘ I "kill ‘ 35 b Wot—rt Err-“r. r ’evicusce-n e r A COpy of tne questionnaire, found in the appendix. page 84. "i V The ages two to seven, in l %3 vv 0 These children would past t;e divided into tnree groups, fiIBVS r goseicle. as forLUlated, Alla}, be ssive, sere decided u;on. stage and could easil; be e-scnool child, ages 8-3; (3) the kindergarien cnild, ages 4-3; (3) tne cncol ages 8-7. It :as 11 ved tnis :rouiin- rould give 9 periods of onild develoament and euon tne diiferent clotnin needs during those reriods. It was not t ought wise to ask tne notners inter- vie ied directly that tieir incomes Jere. Tle question was not La 00 s1 13 'ered eeeential to tne study since only families of moderate incOIes here 453533. T;e"e here, :0 ever, various means of estinatin ‘ tne average incoae of tne f-.ilic Of these, the occu‘aticn of the fatner seened the Lost im;ortant. In the case of 0011 ege instructors and groffi -ors t;e sala ies aere available. In otner cases estirites of income were some— times volunteered by friends or neignbors of tie families. ‘ ~—— . ~. — ‘- ., e -' . 1’ . ‘\ . P- O ~--1')‘\-. I . - - .. - ‘N r- 1 T;.e 34.1.8 Of a “Clue and 13...: alum; v; fa ulD--l£.-.d “3!: also J o Q considered. ne data for tnis study mere collected bet.een dud? 28 and Seateaber 3, 1931 from 71 fanilies wits moderate iflCOmcd ab p .- 3,030 to $5, Duo) in East Lansi11g.Tne uOtSérd Jere interested A if}: and very 000p3retive in givin; tee inform tion. In deny cases entire wardrobes were brou54t out for insfection. Ease study ' ‘5 '- V . 1.. u‘ r~ "~ V A ' ‘ w- ‘ - ,- + _. ~ . 'L _ 'n‘q - ~ took ay,r0Ain-tely one LCur, 'e-endent u,on tne lnucr1%;tlons H) 1 . 3‘ a r- J s"~ 4"? - 1-‘~ , “ . >. . ~l‘ ‘L a - " -, ' . . :- o filldldn and u on tne erectioes or tne Moondrd in deinc all C) ( D d ( ) c+ SJ) H N) H .3 0 rr (b H (I. V (T ) (D H Fl cf ( b H r— O i {‘5 1.1. 5513?. Of t; Y ‘ ‘ ‘J H) cf o (D O o c .» n 1~.. ~ . .. -+— . only one iuo “a; g: t a written account of “ex er,ed itures, and two #30 had arments Sivan here are decerdent u‘on memory and estiaates. 0’) An effort was made to obtain data on an egual number ‘ ‘ ‘ Q "‘ l‘ I-” ‘ ‘ of cnildren in sec“ axe .roue. 11. T37 U 13 I Distribgtion of Stgiies corlin: to A;:a of Chilfiren U .' (J a —-.——'~_..--o—-——-—-—.-_-.--o -—--—-—-—.‘-—‘-‘-—-—-—----o-o—o a..—.--~_._.-~‘.-.-—.—«~-- - a -.-—'--~ Agta of oniliren Girls Boys Total .c‘w‘.-“----“---—-“—“‘-‘--4--——-‘---‘~--‘~‘--— ——-.-—.-.---- 3-3 18 15 53 (J I H 4-5 15 16 (I) 0- 1 6-7 13 _i§__ Totals 45 47 93 man-c ----—--—--~~*-“‘~J-—o~~----~-—.‘ro ‘ -.--—-—.——-——-——.—-— ---.—-'-~ n... .--_.._-.C ‘ --~—-——--—-~——‘,—w—. -~—.«-.--“«-_—~———-—--— Occupation Number m--~.~.>-—.———_.‘-n_.- -~---—~-‘-——.-~o—¢--u—u—~‘-——-o~a-‘—v.-c--—--—-‘.~m—“‘-a_w“--—“ Business 11 3 {H Employed in Ensineaa Government Emyloyses 10 Leaiera of State Clubs 3 Instructors at 1.3.0. W n5 Teacher,L:nding 10 Professor, Assoc. Professor, M.S.C. 3 Extension Department, K.S.C. 9 Dentist, anyer, minister 3 Total 71 -- “-fi'h-ouflm“ -----»‘.~—-~*H~-- w—«-~.m-— -—- «pi-1.....- ——-‘~- — c C —.--.v- ‘.r-‘mt- -- Table III Size of Families Represented Number of cgiliren Numbcr f families Parocnta;e a). family diatriLution I i J -. --- .M ~45- '_-——---. .- ‘1'. ——- - _ -..._...-._.--._-.--- - —-———..— ‘.-—¢-.—‘_- .— .- -~'- — — .. .— c ‘- -- ‘-—~-. g - ‘1‘. -..—..-— 14 3.7 33 46.5 14 19.7 7 9.9 3 4.3 71 130. O - - U‘“*‘I.--‘ __.._¢—..---.r_.—..~~—._..._-.——.-—-—.-—-.-.-‘~--_—._.~——_-—~~~.——I ~~---- cf" 0er- 01be o p H p3 i .( fin.generel, the families halo and grofessionel classesl Twenty-two a M'enigen State College as instructors, and extension workers. Of tne others, men themselves or held :ositions with b There were one dentist, one la.yer, and I. group. Tnirteen .ere eitner soveirqent Club leaders. In only one case see the part time eni that was in her hustend's The number of cniliren ger fa a, with an average of two children. 1 ‘- CO nged to the ousiness ere connected with o iete rofe .30 a: O F (N (U 1‘6 '1' ()3 usiness notLer working even business. Lily ranged from 1 to Chapter III Finlin-e hr 13. l4. Chagter III Findings The fir dings of this study fell into three se tions3 first, the content of he wardrobes; second, the cost of the}, garments; and tnird, the durability of certain garments. J As aas ereviously Planned, these data were tnIOun into & ’ .3 v ag ~rougs. The 5-3 year old children sere considered as A E) threes in the yrs—school Lrour, the 435 year old children in the kinder- garden group, and the 6-? ear old cnildre n in the school group. In the first section of this Chapter, tn e gnases of the wardrobe are considered. The first is the number and types of garments worn by the child during the year. The tord worn here does not seen Jorn out for many children's garments las e or more "ears. It wre ns that sozLe tine during the year these garments were :orn althought ‘ ey may he eteen outgrown, given away or lost after six months of use. In n0st cases, bozever, they were in good or fair condition when the study was made. Secondly, the number and tytes of garments homemade in the Lili- robe are discussed and, thirdly, the number and tyges of garnents 0 handed down both from outside and within the family. Because the character of the boys' and airls' clothing is so different, it eeeaed hes to discuss them se'arately. Tne<\ \ 1’ ,/ fin . ‘ - .q-‘q ’~ A . u- . 1 a . :.. - ‘1 -' ~4 - r 4-, -9'- A. . , blILS' Ha ufOucc will oe cor alias) first under Eavu tc,ic. H ()"l H _ ..-\_...,, . - r - : . ' ,..,‘ , ,- M... :- deny Mot-.1516 turf?) {Quill v»--.'O usall :1 t3 003.135.16 Ens; C - .' .. .,.. _ .1 ., , .. ,_ ' ‘. ‘.i .3 -.,, '1. -, ., p ‘_ i- .. - . fl , - , A _ sirl's tardicbe “it; tne sardio-ss or otnsr siris of t.e Simd nus W'sr 4-; - ’,“ ' . .9 1 . ‘.-~u.- “r m. . are. blufl Uni: 1183 1n mind, tne iOllOalna deed 54V: seen Tables IV, V, and VI may be difficult to ana yze fresent the nuncer of garments Lorn 3y 'he child the year and the averafle number of these child for the three are groups. The last four columns re;re- sen 3 first, the total number of arnsnts for the rhole group m2 of 45 girls; second, the number of the 45 girls rho dad these ‘ 4.5 , ,_ . n 1 1" D r _ fl. ,_ _,'v,- - up: “‘.‘ :4, , _ J“ _‘ . “V 2f- earments, tnlrl, tne 3V3r236 HUwQST Of balmuuté {Oboeoccd ( C V by each of the girls who actually had the garments; and fourth, 4 the average number or garments possessed of each of the a girls whose wardrobes were studied. It was expected the last column would inflt out which garments were the most universally torn and mhicn nere tne most essential. Only four sirls out of the 45 did not have winter coats. These cases all fell in the 2 year age group when the children aere not doing much indegendent running spout. In these cases sweater suits, zigger suits and 833333? and lebbing combinations filled the need for a winter coat. Over half of the children in the school group had a second :inter coat. This usually provided for an older one to be sorn for play and a n8n 16. mm. wo.H NH MH mH. m mm. m mm. o msssHsm mm. om.H w NH 00. o oo. 0 we. NH msssssm mm. oo.H 0H 0H 00. 0 ON. m mm. s assess mo.m Hm.m He Hm wo.m mm om.m mm mw.H mm sass see ssmssm so. oo.H m m we. H oo. 0 mo. H eHsnss .wsss mm. om.H om em mm. s we. MH mm. s mssm mm. oo.H NH NH mm. s m. m 00. 0 mass sss msss seem ammsdwmm .m hqu. oo.m Hes ow oo.m em .mm«H on squ om satesses-so-maHm so. om.H em mm mm. s mm. m as. sH sasssmss spasm om. mm.H mm Fm mm. s ms. s we. mH wmsesmss Hm. oo.H sH sH 0H. m mm. m mm. s sanm esseHN mo. mm.H m e oo. 0 mo. H ~H. m asses ssssssm ow. mo.H sm mm oo.H NH ow. mH mm. NH ssso meHLns ens HHsm HH. oo.H m m 00. o mH. m HH. m secs noesem sm.H cm.H H: mm mm.H mH om.H wH mo.H mH ssos usssHs Hm. oo.H sH sH ms. m m. m 00. o assoosHsm mumpsmew use wpmoo .4 ill. .dmpqmw usedommn git: macaw Images 19mg none woswshcw cHHno mapsfipaw uHHgo wpqmsham vHHso wuamshmw macs; cHHgo IHHQU ho ho Mom mo nos mo hon mo pawsnmw pom pom umpesz hopsnm Amnesz amnesz kumpesz nomadz amnesz umpadz fidefismofiqufiem was 8.. To sews A 1.13431 u {Hinmlwdwa dill new» mac cw wHun mp spot munwshww noocuso >H wages 17. In the first group nearly all of the girls (3) had ruin s that could be worn aitn either ceats or ‘__ i .5! c (U segarate l H) zigger suits. In tne sweaters. These took the place 0 rouo over half of the children L5) had zig‘er ‘ 1.. suite, shile in the third age iron; there gas a marke‘ p. (D SOP (D w CI of hot: 2i;,er suits (.16) and le>.inas (.3). T.ese facts C‘- V I : arate leerinrsand s eaters rare the dost :o:ulsr Le b & a O) ‘- O (t) L" cf W c+ U) for he first crouo about egiallv yo;ular uith sigjer suits for the second group, and for the third 5roup, much less horn than in the othe‘ group . It will be noticed that raincoats gere not at all worn during the gre-scnool oeriod out «ere morn uy 1/3 of the kindergarde group and oy 3/4 of the school group. here the difference in tne needs of the girls of the difJerent aces was duite definitely sho n. These rainco:ts here usually of ruboe - $1 ized cloth of green, red, or navy blue and had rain nats to eaten. In tn s study the button-doun—the-front tyne of saeater mas segarated from the slie-cn sweater. Both tyges see ed to be very go;ular. Tne 45 airis had an avers soeaters each. The F.) sweater that did not have buttons coaing off or coaing unfes- toned. The younger airls had lore button-ug-seeaters than the older girls, but eve: thOse had 3 slip-on s eaters to one button-up-saeater. [‘3‘ ntial. Only (11 (It Mittens were consider d very ess girls of the 45 did not he e then and these had gloves. On the e, the girls nad 1.8 pairs of kittens per child and .9 pairs of gloves per cnild. If we consider only the last two classes havino a total of £3 jairs of cloves, we find each uirl 18. .. es :: u- 1- mm mo.m we No.2 ms Hesoa quu qqqm ml: min mall .unn dqqau all amen: o mmwSOHm mm. Hs.H HH em mm.H wH mm. 2 mm. s wanem mo. oo.m H m 00. o oo. 0 ma. m mHmREom mo. oo.H s s we. H cc. 0 oH. m mHHmneso Hm. mm.m o sH c. H mH. m Hm. HH mHHismpoo Hm. Hm.H mH mm mm. H on. w mm. oH wiseneg eoemm we. mm.H mH om Hm. HH me. p mm. mH wsstseHm ow. mo.H mm on we.H MH oo.H mH es. s msHsm meHesmm HH. 0:.H mm mm mo. H ow. NH mm.H mm new .prsweer NH.nH .. u: .. mw.HH msH om.MH oom mo.mH HHm Hesse Mm. n mqu “flu. Haw. quxn. mun .qm«|: m1: .wwwau MI: Hose mo. oo.H : 3 mo. H mo. H HH. m MHHm em. om.H w HH cm. 0 MH. m NH. m HmHsmmm ms.H ms.H ms Hmm oH.m 3H oo.m OmH sm.H msH sasstepm coupoo mepqmm QpHs womwmam HH. Ho.H H w mm. m mm. s mo. H Hoe: mm. Hs.H NH em mm. 2 mm. m mm. mH MHHm mm.H mm.H mm Hm mm. oH mm.H mH mm.H mm HmHomem NH.m om.s o: on mm.m mm mm.m ms 23.: ow sseeum>m capuoo mmwpqwm pfiogpfia wmmmohn ‘uMmew .dwsnewmg QSOhm «epoch lump smug mpnmEHmm oHHno memEHmm wawxo mpnmEHmw UHHQQ prmEAmw cHons vHHso tawno mo mo amp mo amp mo awn mo mucmaamo Ham Ham Moose» Hopepz Hmpesz hmpenz Hmpadz Hmpesz Homasz HmoEflz WHQMHHw. mo H.95mm manpoa mum mmw4 .iwr: mead .I .wtm wetd Hcmw ego GH waswo mp ago: wHHfimmmHm one wmmmman b magma 1 (KW had an averare of .36 :airs of gloves cogcared to .05 fairs of glove s for the first class. T preferred for children 3 and vi ‘4 I!) {n H U 0 H: p tere often 10st rather tnan worn out. Tie ’) irls averaged over 5; gieces of headcear each. By far tne noet nunerous of these were tne berets and tans anicn avere:ed over 3 :er girl. T;ese xere nearl gre-scnool as in tne scnool ;rcuc and ha" ar:out tne sane aggearance. Obviously bonnets, tonnes, ani nelnets decreased “it: the increase in tne rte f the child. Ea innate and ca 960 () increased corres:ondinbly with tne raincoats Lentioned. T: see were preferred to unbrel as for ecu 1001 children, as s 0 g: 9', .1 t< children lost the latter. Only teo umbrellas were found .0 belonging to the girls tiiie d. O) ‘. Pernars the no t interestine part of a study of tnis «L Q 01 tyre cones in the survey of the dresses. The most striking ‘ in Table V is tne total numcer of dre H) ‘0 0 d' (D 5 (U <: \l' 3“ Ir J (1) LA: 0 038 5‘ (L 3 group. he pre-school cnildren averaged 15 dresses eacn, the kindergarien children averaged 13 eecn, DJ While the school children ave ra Led ll dresses sac the reason for the iifierence c0nes in the kind of wear on tne garments or gernaps in the substitution of :lay suits for dresses in the older ares. The la ter is net tru , no ever, as snoun by tne addition of the play suits to the dresses. It is found 51.5.3 tne -'-' n -. .-H - uni .. .H. ... --,. a extra 5;rmdut5 nulls tne otner tuo LIOuID nave, on tne {n <: (u H l\1 C H 5... Cu D H O F t (L ) <3 0 H H 0 b S p c+ ’C' a ( t O O H n H O C 20. has nearly 15 garments } e-r child. The se figures sould indicate a trend toward a saaller dress section to tne wardrobe as the Cnild gross older. It snould be noted nere, nOHGVSI, tnat tnese figures do not include tne skirts and indoor sweaters worn by tne older girls. Including the skirts only, the average fiOUld be 30, 16, and 16. A fair estimate could not be ootained oy incl m1 ng blouses as tne skirt and blouse are worn togL er to make only one cater ga rment. Hence, altnough tnere is a difference of about four garments between the first tno u, ages, the e is not much difference cetwe 5". is last two. More (D :1- I]. ( skirts and slip—on sue ers are worn by the scnool girls than by the pre-school and kinder rga rde n girls. The mothers expressed a preference for tnese in tnat tney saved ironing during tne winter months and provided varzu dresses A c:;an:e in tne slip-on—sweaters gave variety. Not mar y girls, however, wore blouses vitn these shirts. There were only 3 girls in the school group rno had EWIOJS s with an average of 2 each. In studying the dresses tneaselves the cotton dresses ritn panties to matcl rere mUCh preferred. In tne pre-scnool group the average of tne cotton pantie dresses was nearly 8 to 4% of tne one piece dresses. In the kindergarden group the average was 8 to nearly 3 one :iece dresses, and in tne scnool group, 6 to over 3 one piece dresses. In tne first and last groups tnere were nearly twice as many pantie dresses as dresses without the panties to match, and in tne middle group tnere were nearly 3 times as many. It is interesting to notice, :0 ever, tnat of the other dresses (classified as special, silk and xool) tne dres es 21. without the panties exceed tnOse with them. The first group had nearly 6 times as aany of these as of tne ones With panties to match (1): The second group (2) had over 5 times as nany but the third group (3) had only 1% times as many. Thus for the best dresses the non-pantie dresses are much preferred for the first two classes and to a lesser degree for the third class. The wool pantie dresses were usually of wool challis or soft wool flannel. Silk dresses became decreasingly pogular as the age of the child increased. Because the sunsuits, play suits, and bathing suits «ere worn so often interchangeably, they xill be grouped together. These mothers were apfarently convinced of the value of sunsuits for their children for each girl had on the average two of these suits. While tne number of sunsuits per child decreased as the age increased, the number of bathing suits increased almost in the same :rOportion. With ylaysuits added in with the sun and bathing suits, the averages were strikingly similar with 2.3 garments per child for the pre- scnool group, 2.3 and 2.1 garments per child for the other two groups, resyectively. Beach pajamas were also pogular, though not as healthful, perhaps. Half of the girls had the beach pajamas (.5). These were almost equally distributed among the three classes. Obviously, coveralls, overalls and rompers were the rnost worn in the 2-3 age group, hhere there were .9 per child. ‘1 In the other age groups, the averages were .2 per child or less. 1 2.26 to .39 2 3.05 to .39 3 1 40 to .99 O Keegin: the child in well fitting footwear seemed to d be one of the biggest problems of the mothers because snoes sere so often outg retn before they were morn out. These irls 0‘ I wore, on the average, over six gairs of footgear of all tyges during the year with the number gradually increasing 5133 the age of tne child (5, 7, 7.5 respectively for the different ages). Sligpers -” ere the most {Opular, each having an average of two pairs. Incliiing oxford s and sandals eitn sligpers, eacn girl sore an average of three ,airs yer year, the nuneer increasing from 2 fair in t‘.e first group to 3; in the sec oni and third groups. Bedroom or house slippers were considered alnost necessary. nly th as of the 45 girls did not i-ave tnem and the others who had two pairs brought the average u; to one gair for all ages. Practically all of the children of the school age group had tennis slippers or shoes as they were required for gymnasium work. none of tr e school girls lacked either galoshes or rubbers. The four girls who did not have galoL 16$ fell in the 2-3 a e group there leggings and rubaers were suostituted for 5 them. Likewise, the girls who did not have rubbers fell in the first two classes where galoshes were substituted. One mother thought it was harder to keep her daughter sugglied with stockinns than anything else for she wore them out so quickly. E33; of the girls etsiied had an average of nearly 15 cairs of hosiery duii;ig tne year. The pre- sc nool girls had over 13 gairs and the second and third grou,s ha d 162. and 152 pairs reseectively. Of the different tg'ges of hosiery, cotton aflHHMIIIIIIII. ma. om.H : m mH. m mo. H ms. m to sHop ..so»hss m:.H NH.m an we HH.H mH m:.H mm mm.H mN «gushes -.H ow.m mm om oo.m sm m:.H mm mw.H m Hoo:.hass .umufisoosm mm.m No.1 mm wsH mm.m mm mm. em om.m m ecssoo .smssMoosm so. mm.» mm mmH mm.: mm nH.: H» ~m.m m aslose pm. NH.N w NH om. m om. m :3. w Hose s stu .nhsom m:.m m~.m mm sew H:.m mm nm.m mm oo.m om mosses .uuoom hhmHmom mm. oH.H pm a: oo.H NH mm. HH mm. oH sausage mm. ~0.H H: s: oo.H NH om.H pH mm. mH sosmOHsa HH.H mH.H ms om mH.H :H om.H NH mo.H mH summest aooseom Hm. mo.H Hm mm. mm. H mm. oH mm. m essence Hm. mm.H HH mm mH. m co. m m. m usuomuo mo.m ~m.m o: Hm mH.m mm mm.~ em NH.H Hm samemsHm mo. oo.H H H mo. H 00. o oo. o uncaanm mm. oo.H HH HH mm. 0H om. m oo. o .sssoa saunas cannon teams“ . macaw toummu noudHHno uuHam cHHno uuHsm uHHno uuHem dHHAo uuHsm oHonx uHHno mo no non no ham ho non ha noonm Hon Hum H0932 kmpfisfi Hmpfidfi Run—~52 H095 H0352 hang hoe—3.2 Iluuasmwuauuunaumw. nuuunnuasudwunuuun..nullnuquunuqluuu .Ilnamhflsmumw .Humruum¢1uun ham» one nH uHuH¢ an shot hwotaooh Hb OHAUH S4. socks worn during fall and spring were the most numerous, each girl having on the average nearly 5; hairs. Anklets came next witfl an average of 4 pairs yer girl and then cotton stochinbs for winter #153 an average of over 3 ;airs per girl. it is surgrisin; to notice that 14 of he 45 girls sore neither round nor long elastic garters. These depended ugon the elasticity of the knitted socks or shall rubber bands to keep their socks up. Only 4 of the mothers had garter belts or straps for their children. It is interesting to notice that half of the girls had silk and wool union suits for ainter iith an average of over Bé suits per girl. One-fourth had heavy cotton union suits nith 3% suite per girl, and nearly half of the girls had light weight union suits at 3 suits pe girl. Schetimes these lighter suits were worn all winter xith only sweater and zinger suits for additional warmth. The Lindergarden group had the largest nunber of these per child. Forty of the forty-five children had coabination suits of cotton cloth, or cotton or rayon knit materials. These also seemed to be more numerOus with the 4-5 age éroup that had nearly 5 her cnild while the other tNO grougs averaged 8.3 per child. This may partly be due to the larger number of segarate ganties and bloomers for th 8-3 and 6-7 age grougs. These had an average of 5 pairs per girl “hile the 4-5 age group had only 3$ pairs per child. COmEining these tho, it is found that the different groups have coafaratively the same number, as shown in Table VII. C\) U] Table VII Number of Panties ver Girl Worn by Different Age Groups L __Aqes’gf girls in years 8-5 4—5 6-7 Panties and combination suite 7.6 6.4 7.1 Panties rith yantie dresses 825 -----§;§,-- 7.1 Total 15.9 14.9 14.2 Petticoats and slips seemed to be fairly h0pular, for 58 girls had an average of 3 each. The younger girls had the most, averaging nearly 4 while the two older groups averaged only 2. The bathrobes were usually of heavy blanket cloth and vere found in the wardrobes of 34 of the girls. Every girl in the yrs-school group owned one, but the average for the other tto grougs was only .8 rer child. Kiuonos seemed quite obsolete. Only 4 girls had them. Pajaaas were much more torn than night-gowns. Forty- three girls had worn pajamas or sleepers during the year, averaging 4 each, while only 15 girls had worn nigntdresses, with an average of 5; each. The number of slesping garnents worn during the year averaged 5 for the whole group. om.H om.m ma m mm. oH we. a mo.m am assuage usage ”H.: mm.: m: wH Hm.m a: n».: Ha m~.m am measnem HH. mm.H : m we. H ma. m HH. m «seesaw om. mH.H em 0: mm. OH ow. NH oo.H ma monouessm H~.m m~.m mm mmH oo.m em mm.H mm mw.m mm ugfiam ens usaoodssom H~.: mm.: m: mam wo.m Hm mm.m mm :s.m mm .uoaooap u «magnum mm.~ Hm.m Hm mm mm.” ma os.H Hm oo.H ms mamas: os.m o~.m as sea w~.w mm mw.m m: m~.m mm ashes aoasssanEoo No. om.m m mm m". m mm. : NN.H mw .esam mm. wo.m ma an mw. n ma. Ha em. as memo» to mayhem mm.a mm.~ mm Hm mm.” ma oo.m om mm. NH Hoop ens has» .uasenowfip mm. as.m ma H: mm. oH mm. :H em. as sousoouassog .sfisseOanp mm.H oo.m om om wo.~ ma om.H em mm.H mm sewed .sfipusoaep woudmm umpcommaamh macaw launch ampefiwgo nauoauwm adage nonmauew caano unamenem daano naqoahuw cause wanna no no hon mo you no hem mo newshew you Mom nmpafiz , 9098px umpasz Hmnapz hmpapz 903892 hopapn hmnssz umquaauqqunuugagm .asusluqdusaa muoyuum¢ mumnuuuqnnuu .unnnnumnugmqnnun use» one ad nauwa hp one: munosuwe meamooam cad magnaoaouodpp Hun» OHAGB mw.H om.H n: mm mm.H mH mm.m :m -.H Nm .sossHa mm. om. om Mm wo.H mH we. oH mo. H no>OHe mm. oo. mH H mm. x mm. m mm. m muoaaHHu msHssem am. MH. mm mm ma. m we. a mm. oH ones msHeuum mo. co. m m we. H we. H mo. H nous: Hm. No. mH NH mm. m 0:. m am. m museum mm.eH mm. H H: a: mw.mH wwH mm.HH maH. oo.m on scoHeouoseqem mo.n Hm. mm mmH mm.m Hz mm.m om om.m m: unoppHa “Hem oo.m MH.m mm mmH oo. o mm.m mm mm.: Na .pHm mm.H mH.m mm mm m~.H mH mH.m mm m~.H NN «soua4 dam dopnmmmuaoh macaw [0.38 3.83:0 0303.3 330 0303.3 H530 0303.3 “:30 0303.3 308. .330 no No you mo .Hom Mo hog no .Hom .Hom .3852 .Hopspz 900.52 39.802 .3980: hoe—3k .3952 .3952 uuaquum1uquuuaaum_.unlunuqaquauunuuu .nulhmhwhnnannuu .nuuhmuwhnuanunu .Inuhmmwssuzwuna. .30» 000 5 33¢ hp 02.5 333.3 mgofinaoomua NH 0.239 m sceilaneous Dress protectors such as a rons and bibs he’s found to be much more prevalent in the first two EIOUfB than in the third. The average “as 52 for the first two groups. The bibs here higher in the first class (4 per child) and loder in the econd 1 class (32 per Child). Half of the girls had bathing caps and one third of them had bathing slippers. Home Sewing It is sometimes thought that rothers of moderate income families do little home se.ino. In view of he results from these data, that assumption is substantiated. Although 41 of the 45 mot. are made at least one article for t1 sir child's wardrobe, four of the 41 mothers made only one garment. Half of the aothers made nine or fewer garhents for their daughters. Nineteen of these 45 mothers regorted at least one tareent made over. This shall hunter of mothers doing hone sewing does not nec Marily Lean that the girls did not have hOme dads clothing (I) in the wardrobes. In several cases grand others, aunts, and friends had given then hc.cmade garaents. When these are considered the average number of home made garments per girl increases from 10.0 to 11.5. Of these gifts, aprons were the host numerous with 14 of the 36 holemade aprons being :re ents. Ei ight of the 17 gairs of homemade mittens were knit by friendsa .dB of the 6 homemade coats were gifts. Dresses were also very pOQular as gifts (19 of the v. 4-. be. homemade ones) and bathrobes, petticoats, bibs and nigntQOnns were given in varying numbers. By far the most numerous articles of clothing nade in the home for children were dresses. Some mothers made as many as 12 and 13 pantie dresses for their daughters. Of all the dresses, 33 per cent of ‘he gantie dresses were homemade and 40 per cent of he one ;iece dresses. Although half of the aprons (531 were honesade, nearly half of these were rifts Cf from outside he fenily and so do not she; the sewing done by the mothers. One 6 year old girl had only one agron which she ghad made herself at school. She was very proud of it, and took it off when she sent out to play. Only 23 per cent of the bibs were homenade, even though they would seen to be a very easy article to make. As a rule, however, the mothers found furchased ones inex,ensive and easier to keep clean, esgecially nhen they were made of Of the underclotning, slips, being straight and easy to sew, were the host often made (43%) and then came bloomers and ;anties :ith 21 per cent honeuade. Of the sleeping garments, it was surprising that nearly 65 per cent of the nigntgosns eere nade at hone. These were usually for the very ears leather in the summer and were often made of thin crege or plain cotton cloth. he gajauas, hOSever, for winter were usually purchased and of tne sleeper type with the feet knitted in. Only 11 per cent of them eere homemade. TABLE X Number of Home Made and Made Over Garments for Girls of Different Age Groups __“Qar§§nt§ homemade Garments madeover Total Age groups in years Age groups in years homemade 2-3 M-S 6-7 Total 2-3 h-S 6-7 Total and madeover Winter coat 2 H - 6 l 3 3 7 13 Summer coat 2 - - 2 l l - 2 14 Fall and Spring coat 6 2 - 8 2 1 3 6 1M Slip-on sweater - - 3 3 l - - l M Zipper suit — - - - - l - 1 l Leggings - l l 2 - - — - 2 Mittens h 12 1 17 - - - - 17 Beret, hat, helmet 3 l - h - 9 l l 5 One piece dresses MS 25 12 85 3 5 2 10 95 Pantie dresses 8h h1 21 1M6 2 - 3 5 ' 151 Sun suits 2 - - 2 - - - - 2 Overalls 1 - - 1 - — — - l Skirts 2 - - 2 - 2 5 7 9 Blouses l - - 1 - - - - 1 Aprons 9 2O 7 36 - - - - 36 Beach pajamas - — 2 2 - - - - 2 Combination suits 3 1 - h - l - l 5 Underwaists - 2 - 2 - - - 2 Bloomers and panties 2h 12 9 M5 - - - - MS Petticoats and slips 28 ll 13 52 - - - - 52 Bathrobes 3 1 2 6 - - - - 6 Pajamas lO 7 5 22 - - - - 22 Night gowns 32 l 2 35 - - - - 35 Bibs 8 2h - 32 1 6 - 7 39 Garters - 1 1 2 — - - - 2 Total number of garments of all 27;3 166 79 517 11 2o 17 us 566 kinds Number of girls 18 15 10 M3 5 7 7 19 represented Number garments per girl represented 15.05 11.h2 6.58 11.h6 .61 1.33 1.u1 1.06 12.53 31. If to tne acnenade garments are added tlose nade over, the total of homemade garnents :er enild increases from 11.5 to 18.5. Tnese figures do not indicate a very large percentage of garments made over. In the nain, winter, fall and spring coats were the most often made over. Next came the dresses and then the heavy shirts that were very often of wool for tne girls to rear with blouses and slip-on—s eaters. It is interesting to see no; the amount of home sewing done decreased with the age of the child and the size of the family. From Table XI, below, it can be noticed that as the number of brothers and sisters increased the number of garments made for the wardrobe decreased, but th number of garments made over per child increased. Table XI. Comparison of the Amount of Eons Seeing ser Girl Wit; tne Number of Older Brotnere and Sisters in tne Family gee of girls in3years -3 "1- - 3 Number of brothers and sisters 16 19 25 fl Number of garments made yer girl for wardrobe 15.05 11.43 6.58 Number of garments made over per girl .61 1.33 1.41 “a-.. - --.-.- -—-.-~---——-—.--- "'7 .— —-—-—.—.- ’.- 03 L1 1 Ga £13213“ 8 Hit"- ..e ‘1. 9939 "Is there any relation betneen the nuaber of older brothers and sisters in a fanily and the nunber of garaents handed dean?" is a question very often as had itnen speaking of garments being worn by more than one child. Table XII Com;arison of Number of Older Children in the Family With the Number of Handed Donn Ga rnents ger Girl St died — — —- -”_— gee of girls ipJ'firs___ 7-5 ‘ 4-3" “6-7 Number of older children 13 ll 15 Number of older sisters 7 6 6 Number of garments handed down per girl. 4.61 4.53 5.16 ‘.‘v- ———-—-.——---.o — -—v—"-——- To answer this question the briter has worked out the table above snoning the number of older brothers and sisters in each aroup con,ared bite the number of aarnents handed donn per onild. Here it nay be noticed that in the 4-5 year age group, then the nunber of older brothers and sisters decreased, the number of garments handed den also decreased. This fact may indicate that as tne number of older brothers and sisters increases the average number of gar r:ents nznied do .n increases (although the amount of hone sening decreases). J chan e n-ay be more de.:endent u on the other (1 Hence, tn' g ‘Uembers cf tne family than u; on a Change in the type of clothing torn (which night be acre durable in character). 35. These data also tend to shoe that between the ages 3-? there is no garticular age at nhion cnildren outgrow their garments faster than in another stage. There are three sasons why a garment may be handed down. The child may have groan so fast that she could not 00mplete wear'ng out the garment, or the garment say have been seldom worn, or it may have been well made and of especially a to analyze Taole 917 p. w durable material. An attem;t will be m XIII with these facts in mind. The most striking thing to be noticed aboat the out- of-door garments is that 2 of the 5 summer coats were handed down. The fact that there were only 5 surmer coats for tne 45 -girls would shoe that tney were not very popular, but the fact also that of these 5, 2 mere handed down shoes that they rere not aucn worn or needed by the children. Sweaters seem to have taken their-:lace. Here it was found that only 5 of the SO slip-on- sweaters, or 6 per cent, were handed denn, and only 1 of the 83 button-up sueaters, or 3 per cent, were handed down. There snould be no question. that tne reason 14 per cent of the raincoats were handed dOnn would be the snort time they were born and the.gronth of the child from year to year. The largest number of important garments handed doen' was of dresses where 25 of the 619 dresses were previously aorn. This number, however, only represented 4 per cent of all the dresses torn. One sixth of the heavy skirts of tne girls mere handed down (4 of the 34). This was probably due to tne third reason stated above, namely that they were nade of good duality wool material. TABLE XIII 54. Number and Type of Handed Down Garments in Girls' Wardrobes Number Total Percent of handed Garments handed number down garments of down worn tdtal_number worn A. Outer garments Winter coat 5 56 9 Summer coat 2 5 MO Spring and fall coat 2 36 5 Raincoat 2 1h 1h Slip-on-sweater 5 80 6 Button sweater l 29 3 Leggings 2 27 7 Gloves 1 2h u.5 Beret and toque 6 101 5 B. Dresses and playsuits Dresses 10 257 5.9 Pantie dresses 15 36? .1 Sun suits h 35 11 Swimming suits 3 36 8 Shirts u 2 16.9 Aprons 5 69 7 Hai rribbons 3 136 2 Handkerchiefs 31 1475 6 Bibs 3 135 2 C. Undergarments and sleeping garments Undershirts 5 31 16 Underwaists h 55 7 Combinati onsuits 7 108 6 Unionsuits 6 152 3.8 Bloomers, panties 7 212 3 Slips 5 122 h Bands 5 28 1709 Pajamas 8 185 h Nightgowns 2 5h 3 Bathrobes 7 MO 17 Kimonos 2 5 ho D. Footwear Sandals 3 23 13 Oxfords 2 23 8 Houseslinners 3 50 6 Galoshes 6 MM 13 Rubbers 3 . MI 7 Stockings 9 218 h Socks 19 hh3 h Total 213 3 .169 6.7 Number garments per girl h.73 70.h 6.7 35.’ The small percentages of combination suits, union suits and panties handed doan inlicates that few of tnese were outgrown before they were worn out. From the percentage standgoint, bands and undershirts run somewhat higher (18 and 16 per cent resgecti ely). It may be due to the fact that at a certain stage in groxth, these garments are discarded as babyish and outgrown before hey are worn out. Pajamas and nightdonns seem usually to be norn out cefore they are handed down, but bathrobes and kimonos were not. Seven of the 40 bathrobes (17%) were handed down, probably dae to a combination of all three of the reasons aentioned. Only 8 of the 5 kimonos were handed-down rhich indicates that they are as ungo;ular as the summer coats discussed above. It is inte_esting to notice that the most seasonal of footgear, namely, san’als and galoshes, mere the most often handed down (13 per cent in both cases). It is undodbtedly due to tne short time a child needs to wear them. The fact that so few shoes were handed doun shows how quickly a child wears them out. Very few of the stockings lasted long enough to be handed down. . 36. Types and Numbers of Boys' Garments. The problem of clothing the boys is a different one from that of the girls. It will be studied under the same tepics as used in the {revious discussion for girls. This section discusses the number and type of garments sorn by the boys, the number of garments homemade and made over and the number handed down. In looking at Table XIV, probably the most surprising thing to be noticed is that the number of winter coats increases up to the 6-7 year period, and then suddenly drOps to less than one cost per boy. In this age group, however, there is a new article of clothing, the jacket, that substitutes for tne winter coat, and to some extent for the fall and spring coats as well. For tne fall and spring coats a decrease from .6 per child in th 4-5 year group to .3 per child in the 6-7 year group is sheen. Obviously, the boys have no summer coats, although they do have on the average over one button or heavy sneater per child. During the 6-7 year period, hohever, even these button or heavy smeaters decrease in number, probably due to the substitution of the iaoket and also the heavy 3 piece tool suite that 5 of the 16 boys in this group have. Leggings, sweater suits, and_ziu;er suits gradually decrease with he age of the boy. Of the he'dnear f0 tne boys, helmets here the most oer child. hen came the caps A H popular nith an average of .8 with an average of .6 per child, increasingly p0pular with the age of the boy. Tame and berets were the most numerous in the gre-school group, helmets in the kindergarden groug and helmets and caps egually in the school group of boys. s7. ow. mm a an an Hm. ma oo.H ma om. m .soaaom mu. mm.H ma m~ w". m m:. a om. m .oseoa mu. mm.a mH mm Hm. m ma. m MH.H NH usoaop use case NH. co.” m m :m. s mg. m ma. m case he uses sham em. mH.H am an as. ma no. as we. a .aso Hm. H2.H an em mm. m me. p mm. m seem kukdmom Hm.H mw.H em mm ma.a ma mm.fl om om.“ em massacre souaaam mH.H ow.~ on em mm. ma ~m.~ mm mH.H as «Hossoum seems as. ~H.H as am wH. m mm. m om. m awsawmog ms. ~H.H aa om an. m Hm. m mm. oh ashes seamen ma. oo.H m m 00. 0 ms. m ms. p madam gaseoum om. mm.H m sh mp. NH Na. m as. o assess ms. mH.a om mm an. m us. ca mm. m peso manage e ages oo. oo. o o oo. o oo. o oo. 0 secs hoessm mo.~ ms.H mm an mm. as Hm.H Hm mo.H mH sacs noses: mm. oo.H HH HH me. p NH. m ma. m assoosfium Juana! macaw. acumen eeadouohmou nonessem uHHAo mpqmsusw vHaAo monoshwm cause manoshmm macs: cHaAo nmueaano he mo new no son Mo non no new hem umpasz hopapz Aegean hopapz umpspz nopanz Aegean Augean «Aduauumluqluuganm .IIIIIIHAQHHHIIIIII .IIIINquuuuq mnziuuMQIlll .Illamuwnnmxfllll. Hue» one a“ whom an snob manoeueo hoobano sHu sagas Mittens iere aeaarently very important to the boys for each had an average of txo fairs. These nere alaost egually distributed among the different age grougs. It is interesting in looking at Table XV, to notice a further Change in the tyne of garaent rorn by boys as the age increases. For instance, the short- -legged suits decrease in number from 11 per boy to 9% and then to 5% her boy for the three age groups resgectively. This decrease is baralleled by a similar increase in the nunber of trousers and blouses. Table XV NuKLber of Boys' Suite for Different Age Groups -w—--—-—- -— .-————--.—'v’.-—--—-..-'— ’-”"-.- ---v"’mfi--r-.0_ — w—. O.- - - —-— Ages. of boys in years "-m‘ 3-3 4-5 6-? Short legged suits 10.9 9.4 5.4 Blouses and 3 piece suits 1.73 4.06 6.9 Play suits 8-9fi-----§;9}-.,.-§;9 Total ' 20.63 18.89 15.3 - - '- ---—-—---—'—.‘-r- - .s---—L~--- --- -—---~—’ ’ .r- - -.- —n..-—.--—-. .0. -.~--.-- ----n- — 'm Here it may be seen that as the boy gets to the 6-7 year period the s ort legged suit did"“366re, and the trousers nith blouses and the 3 piece tool suite take its place as the main type of clothing worn. The clothing of the boy becomes nore mannish in character. The other glay suits gradually decrease from nearly 9 to 3 per child. This fact shone as well a change in awount of laundry of the family. In Table XVIit may be noticed that only 42 of the 47 boys are re; orte d as having everyday cotton suits. It may be a so rce of nonder vhat the others wore. The 5 boy 'n'ithout cotton 39. suits her e iistr icute d inoné the diffs ant age grougs. The first child vore all rompers and play suite. The other four wore coveralls, and trousers with blouses. In studying the boys' suits themselves, the siuilarity of gar rnents be tween the age s 2-3 and 4-5 can be noticed. Both age groups have an ave rage of aggroximately 7 everyday cotton suits per child. Next to the cotton suits, the tool ones are hL nest in hunter 11th an average of 2 for each child of tne 5-3 1 . . awe group and of nearly 1; for each boy of tne 4-5 age group. D (f) , ecial suits (of silk, linen and velvet) were not very grevalent as sho n in Table XYIahe re they averaged .6 ger boy with the most in the first txo age groups. Coveralls were far more often worn than overalls. There xere nearly two coveralls to one pair of overalls in the first and hird age groups and over tso for the second age grou“. Because the sunsuits and bathing suits were worn as substitutes for each other, they :ill be considered to( tl1er. Nearly every boy of the 4? had either a sunsuit or a bathing suit. The sunsuits naturally decreased ith the age of the child and the bathing suits corresgondi n Qy increased. The boys averaged 1.5 suits each (1.5, 1.7, 1.3 for the three age grours espectively). It is surprising to notice that each of the boys here wore an average of from 6 to 7 gairs of the different kinds of foctéear daring the year. Of these, Oxfords nere sue; the most q r coy. Shoes were *(‘i ( D tnnflerséjy worn averaging over 1.5 gairs much preferred to the Oxfords For the ages 2-3, the averaée L*o. mw. oo.H mm gm mm. :H Hm. ma on. N mpfisw wawspmm mm. oo.m m m: u a u :u oo.m m: mquEOm QN. Fm.m HH mm Hm. m mm. ma mo.H ma mpfism cam mN. ~m.a Nm Nm NH. m we. HH om.H :m mpfism amfim Hm. Hm.H ma mm mm. oH Hm. m mm. :H mHHmhm>o mm.H 0H.m mm om NH.H my ww.m m: mm.~ mm mHHmhmpoo m:.m mm.m ~m Hmfl mm.m oca om.m o: oo.H ma mmmgoam mm.~ mm.m pm Hm oa.m mm mm.H mm mN. HH whomsuhe 0H. oo.H m m Hm. m u v u - wpfipm Hoe: momwm m 0:.H NH.m mm mm mg. m m:.H mm mH.m mm wpfisw Hoe; mo. mm.H m z u - mo. H on. m mpfisw gawm mm. oo.m :H mm mm. m mw. HH mp. HH mpfism Hafiomom mm.m 0m.~ m: ~om mm.: mN m.~ mHH mm.~ wHH wpfinm mwumhm>m dwquw dmpsww pack» umummu nmwh nmuc mucmqum cawgo manghmw cflwmu mummEpmw wafigo prmEhmm maoga nawno uawno Mo Mo hm: mo hog mo nmm mo wpnmfihww pom “mm pmnssz umpesm prasz “mpezz pmpesz Hopasz umpesz umpssz deflfiwum‘mo ngESu wfiadda MNw mmmd INN: mde Ililfiflmzmum&1lll. wmdoho mm< acmhmmmHm cw new» mco cw whom an ago: mowfim hwfim an“ waowfioue .wpfifim H>x mamas number per boy was 1.8 for the shoes and .6 for Oxfords. This fact is 310 sasly aue to mothers bLlievina s oe s give hore si3jort as 4-5, oxfords are such 01: to young angles than Oxfords. For a preferred to shoes, the aver 5e numeer 3er child being 8.4 Oxfords to .5 shoes. For the 6-? age group, a falling off is found in the number of both the shoes and the oxfords worn (1.7 for Oxfords and .2 for shoes). Tl ere is, however, a decided increase in the number of tennis shoes and high t03s worn, the average nunber per child of this age group being .9 for tennis shoes and .6 for high tops. The tennis shoes were required for gymnasium work at school. Nearly all of the high tOps were in the 7 year group (5 of the 6 boys). 81113 are and sand Els together, were worn acre in the 2-3 year group than oxfords. Nearly all of t-e boys had one rair or more of bedroom slippers. They aVeraged exactly ne pair fer child. Thirty- eight of the boys had at least one fair of galoshes (averaging 1 1 .9 per child) and 39 of them had at least one 3air of ru u- are nhich avera; ed one gair 3er child. In two cases there here boots for ylay. The largest number of 3airs of hosiery worn came in the gre-school group tith an average of 14 3airs in the tardrobe. The other the age grou3e averaged 13 3airs. In these studies cotton socks were tne most numerous, averaging 5 pairs per child. Cotton stockings averaged nearly 4 iairs 3-er child and anklets ave raged E; gairs per child. Only 7 of these boys had silk ani wool socks to be worn during the tinter, but 18 of them had silk and wool stockings, averaging nearly 4 3airs each. M2, mH. oo.H N N mo. H wH. m om. m guess so sHmp eschew mm.H 0H.m mm ma NH.m em mm.H mm m:.H mm mcmseee m:.H mw.m mH mm mm. mH om.H 2m oo.m cm Hoe; ho Mafia .wmqflxQCpm m~.m mm.m mm NNH mm.m m: mm. mm ow.: NH mosses .mmcHxOOsm am.m m~.m Hm HmH mm.H mm Hm.: mm m~.H om msmHsea mm. H~.m H mm :a. 2 mm. m mm. mH Hose no MHHm .wxoom mo.m om.w mm mmm wH.m mm mm.m no no.3 :5 causes .msoom hthmom so. oo.H m m we. H u u moo. H msoom so.H mm.H mm m: mH.H mH oo.H mH mm. :H message me. mo.H mm 0: mm. HH NH.H wH m». HH mmeoneo co.H mm.H mm a: Hm. mH sm.H om m. :H mamasHHw emm we. so.H _Hm mm Hm. m mm. oH ms. a mHeeeem Hm.H mo.m an ma mw.H am m:.m mm we. oH menoexo m. mw.H m 0H mg. a mH. m we. a mumccHHm ma. m:.H mH mH m. mH em. a u : wHeeme mm. m.H w HH mm. oH mo. H u . ecosgnHm mm. mm.H om mm am. e w:. w w.H am macaw Ii [duaaow dmpummmu macaw umsams new“ amps mesmencw dHHAo wpcmEhmm UHHQo mucmfipew dawno mpcmaaaw mHone wawno Iafixo mo mo non mo hum mo you mo mpqmahmw pom Hum Hopssz amnesz Hmpfidz hmpEfiz Ampafiz umpESZ awn. % Hmpesz massage .qumusaqm meeqs .Mrw acme my: mesa mum wees wQSOHo mwd pmmammmHQ GH new» one 2“ whom an ago: Homepoom HH>N @Hpma 43. Nearly all of tLe-e boys had sone form of either round or long garters (36 of the 47) but only 7 of them had an form of garter belt or stra3s. In considering underclotning, it will be noticed that the number of union suits increased from the 2-3a age group :here the average is 4 per child, to 7 in the other t o groug: s. This fact is 3robably due to more sli3 over ba. .ds- being morn during the earlier teriod and also harder sear on the underclothing in A E). PA the other tao perio 'lhere also is a change in the fiber in union su its as the child grOns older. The silk and .001 union suite noticeably decrease a. bile the leavy end lizht cotton suits incr ease in number uitn the ag e of the boy. Shirts, bands and se3arate under 3anties or snorts ar very little earn a ter the 3- -3 year 6roup huilé undereaists (I) sloxly decrease in in;ortance There is a 510d but general decline in the number of boys wearing bathrobes from the 2-3 to the 6-7 age group. Teenty- 'ix of the 45 boys had them, averaging .6 per boy. The :aj ar we for boys eere usually of the else "i ‘( sonetines in one 3iece and sonetixes in tho. The boy , on the average, more nearly 5 fairs during the year. Night shirts and gonnsiere ;orn by a decreasing number of boys as the 'ge increased e.nd the number of pajaaas torn increased. Of the accessories, he number of neckties and hand- kerchiefs per child incr aeed tit; tne age of the boy, nhile ecreeeed. p. scarfs, serene and bibs nu. mm. oo.m w on am. : mm. m ow.H am quom sew mpnaem psmfia mm. wH.m a: mmm m~.: ma ~m.m mm 02.: mm seawnsm mm. mH.H mm Hm mm. m mo. OH om. NH mspoeepsm Hm. mm.m w mm . u NH. m ow.H pm mossesm .mpnoem NH.H m.m wH mm Hm. ma mfl.fl ms o:.H mm mamas; mm. om.m m HH u u u n ma. HH meewm ea. om.m oH mm ms. m Hm. m ow.H pm Antenna mpnwsm Hm. ac.m as m: mg. m wo.H NH om.H ma Hose sea aHHw .msaem eons: m:.H so.m mm ow mH.m mm mw.H mm om. m eossoo apmme .mpwsw cowqb mm.m mm.m mm mMH Hm.m mm mm.m mm mm.m em psMwH .mssew gowns dupmmw wmpmwmms macaw Imhmeh Inch :mso mummesam uawmo mucmaamm uHHSU mpnmEhaw dafigo mucmEhcm mace; uH«£o Iafigo mo mo neg mo hen mo you Mo wpcmEnew mom hem Aegean hmpfism umnfidm nowadm hmpadm umpaflz geneaz thESZ pemawmwlwquuaamm maswda ”Mrw mow4 mu: wmw¢ mum mama mQSOHw mw< pqmswwmfin ca new» mac aw whom an ego; prmEHmw mcwuwmam can mewngHOMmccb HHH>x manna Hts mw.m om.w wH mmH m” : smm em on m“ ma mpHm :n. . 00.: 4H ma mo H I u OO.HH mH weongq ma. m:.H Hm on we. a Hm. MH mm. oH wensom mo. oo.H H H c a mo. H u u mnmaaHHm wsHepmm no. oo.H m m mo. H mo. H : : ass meHepsm mm.. :m.m a: moH wH.m mm we.“ mm mm.m mm memppHe mm. oH.H oH HH :m. : em. : om. m as>0He me.~ mo.m mm mam ~w.w meH Hw.m amH mm.m mm wemHsonmaseem mm.H Hm.m mH Hm mm.m we mo.H NH MH. N onp aomz dMMme umpammMH mechw umhama Iowa coho mpnmEpmw oHHno wpamBuww oflwno wunwEAew cHHgo mpnwshem . mHoge cHHno IHHAQ ho ho you mo hem mo you mo mucoshmw new new aspen» umpasz Amnesz uwnasz umpasz nmpssz umpasz umpesz .. . mamuoe ~so.meW, mu: wmwm. mum,mwww w950u¢ mwd pewumeHn cw new» mac aw whom an ego: meoHpnd mfiomquHmomHE KHN manna 45. Home Sewing q Of the 47 boys' eardrobe s st adied, the nunber of hone made earrents found was surprisingly small. Fourteen of th 0 wardrobes contained no homemade earn uents at all. Only one had over 14 and tho-thirds had ies than 4 gern.ents aade in the home. 02 Of the out- of-door garxnen its, einter coats were the host often hade, 15.6 per cent of those torn. Only one zi33er suit was homemade, b at there were 4 sli3-on-sneate rs, 4 3ieces of headwear, and 11.:airs of mitt en s. The latter were often knit by others and given to tr .e Children. Of the indoor clothing, boys' suits were the most often made (3 9 of the 403, or 7 3er cent of the total number worn during he year). Although only 19 pairs of trousers were made for the boys, these re.res nted 33 3e" cent of tne number worn b q (19 of 91). Tiese Here usually of the straight, ane -len th ty3e (O that were fairly easy to me-ke . Nearly half of the romgers (48. 9 per cent) and over half of the night gowns and night shirts (57.5 per cent) were constructed at han. Probably the reason so e in the here :as that tney were easily ()1 many of these were ma const ucted garments. The boys' wardrobes averaged 3 homemade garments and nearly 3 made over ones. Sfring and fall, and tints r coats were tre most often made over of the outdoor garments with blouses anl trousers oer cent of the q at (x) running high for the indoor garnents. Here trousers worn by the boys were made over. This larger 3ercentage is 3robably due to the custom of transforming worn out men's trousers into boys' tailored trousers as was practiced in nany M6.- Table XX Yuuber of Home Made and Made Over Garments for Boys of Different Age Groups Garments hqmegage__‘ Gaggsn§s_§qde.qyer__ Total Age grouns in years Age Frouns in years homernde 2-3 h—B 6-7 Total 2—3 h-S 6-7 Totol and ._n - _ -_._.,___._..---"., measure: A. Outer Garments Winter coat 6 1 1 s h 1 0 5 13 Fall & spring coat — - - - 2 3 2 7 7 Jackets - - - - - - 1 1 1 Zinner suit - - 1 1 - - - 1 Leasinss - - - - - - 1 1 1 Button sweaters - 1 - 1 - - - - 1 Slip-on—sweeters h - - M - — - — M Headwear 2 2 - h 1 1 - 2 6 Mittens 3 5 3 11 - - - - 11 Scarf - l - l - - - - 1 B. Suits and undergarments Boys' suits 12 7 10 29 3 1 3 7 36 Trousers 7 - 12 19 3 6 9 15 37 Blouses - - - 1M 2 2 18 18 Play suits 1 5 - 6 - - - — 6 Sunsuits - l - 1 - l - 1 2 Romners 22 - - 22 - -- - - 22 Bibs 2 - — 2 - 12 - 12 1h Underwaists - - 5 5 ~ - - - 5 Panties & shorts - - - — 8 - - 8 8 Nightshirts 1M 9 — 23 2 - - 2 25 Aprons - - - - 6 - - 6 6 Pajamas, coveralls.) bathing suits, )- 1 1 2 - - 3 3 5 bathrobe,garters, ) house slinuers ) Knit socks 3 - - 3 - - - - 3 Total number of garments of 311 76 33 33 122 M3 27 21 91 233 kinds - Number of boys reoresented 12 11 10 33 7 6 6 22 Number garments per boy 6.3 3.0 3.3 U.3 6.7 h,5 3.5 h.1 represented Number garments per M7 boys 5.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 2.8 1.7 1.3 1.9 h.9 47. of the homes visited. Bios and anties also ran fairly hi 5h as earnents made froa old aaterials. c. Garrents-h.nded DOAD ”u— .—” — The re sults of this study on the garments handed down to the 47 boys are sur; risir .3 in view of the generally accepted \ idea t1-at boys are hard on their clothir g and, t: erefore, wear them out before outgroaing teem. In these cases, an average of 8.4 garnents per boy were handed down. Of these, nctever, the greater number came in the 8-3 year group where there were 13 handed down garments per boy. The number decreased by half for the 4-5 year group and ren ained nearly the sa me for the -7 year group (6. 4 and 5.7 garments per boy res;e ctively). Four-fiftns of the boys (39 of 47) possessed at least one article handed down. Of the outdoor garments for boys, winter coats :ere the moat often handed down (16 of 51, or 1/3 of those worn during the year). Next, grOportionately, cane tne fall and sgring coats, .1th 6 of tne 65 torn oe1n5 ;aseed down. Le55in5s and headgear ran fairly hi5n, about 1/5 bein5 second handed. Very fee mittens were handed down, 3.6 per cent, (4 of 109 mittens worn) snorin5 that the boys had no difficulty in wearing these out by themselves. Eleven 9 er cent of the slip-on sweaters and 7 per cent of the button ei.ea ers were second handed. Of the indoor outer garments for boys, suits were the most numerous of these handed down, with 47 of the 4:2 worn, or 11.6 per cent. This numb er is over twice as many as the number of girls' dresses handed donn, averagin5 4 per cent of tee total sorn. Tee lar5e nun.b er of boys' suits handed down is ,robably gartly due to the decided cnange in the type of clothing worn by the boys, Table XXI. Number end Tyne of Handed Down Currents in Boys' Wardrobes Total Total Per cent handed eernents bended down worn down of those worn A. Outer Varments. Winter coats 16 51 31.3 Fall end snring Coats 6 23 26.0 Fain coat 1 11 9.0 Zineer suit 2 20 10.0 Legrings H 21 19.0 Button sweeter U 53 7.M Slip-on-sweeter 7 62 11.3 Headgear 22 135 15.1 B. Suits and Play suits Boys' suits M7 U02 11.6 Trousers 8 91 8.8 Blouses 11 161 6.9 Coverells 10 90 11.1 Overalls 7 29 2h.1 Swimming suits 9 3M 26.u Play and sun suits 6 73 8.2 C. Underclothing and night wear Light cotton suits, B.V.D. 12 139 8.9 Heavy cotton suits M 113 3.5 Undershirts 3 35 .9 Underwaists 1h 53 26.M Shorts - -- --—« Bathrobe 11 31 35.u Pajamas 37 228 16.2 Nishtshirts 8 ho 20.0 D. Footgeer Oxfords 3 76 3.9 Slineers and shoes 5 55 9.1 Hightons 3 11 27.2 Houseslipners 6 b7 12.8 Boots 2 2 100.0 Socks 36 333 8.2 Stockings .13 266 5.9 Gnloshes 5 to 12.5 Rubbers 5 h? 10.2 Total Per cent Total garments handed handed worn down of down, rqee'worn E. Miscellaneous Mittens h 109 3.6 Scarf 16 30 53.3 Aprons 8 16 50.0 Bibs 6 136 u.u Garters 2 75 2.5 Heckties 1 61 1.6 Tandkerchiefs 31 352 8.9 Total garments 395 3597 10.08 Number ,arments handed down Der M7 boys 8.36 76.5 10.98 Number ac ments handed down uer children renresented 9.77 Krmber of children reuresented 39. beginning with the 4-5 a5e group through the 6-7 a5e 5roup, there suits are disglaced by trousers and blouses. As mi5ht be exgected, about 1/4 of tne bathing suits and overalls were handed down, shoein5 that these were not much worn. Of the trousers, only 8. 8 er cent, and of the coveralls, 11 per cent Lere handed down. Considering the underclothin5, the under aists apparently I‘ (D C (b ived the least azount of hard sear for over 1/4 (14 of 53) were passed dozn Nearly 91er cent of the summer unionsuits, compared to 3.5 :er cent of the heavy union suits, were second handed, sec .ing t-.at there was comparatively a shorter time in which the boys wore the li5ht‘ueigit union suits and, therefore, outgres then more quickly. Th. fact that slightly over half of the boys (26 of 47) .of these over a third were handed down, 5oes to {1. had Mat robes an show they mere not very goyuler with the boys. Obviously, tne shoes tnat are the nost suitable for all occasi ns for tJB DO"8 are the see often handed doen. Only 3.9 per cent of tne Oxfords, as con are d to 9 :er cent of the Bliyédrd OJ and $4088 and 18 :er cent of the durable, ut exgensive hi5h toys morn eere handed do n. Of the house slippers, 16.8 per cent were handed dean. The comparatively large percenta5e of the galoshes (12.5 per cent) and rubbers (13.8) handed doan may be due to tne older boys discardin5 them for high to;s in tne snowy weather. Askin5 a5ain the Question, Is there any relation betneen the number of older brothers and sisters in the family and the number of garnents handed down? a schewnat different picture angears for the boys than for the girls. Table XXII COmjarison of N‘s er of Older Children in the Faaily With the Number of Handed Down Garments per Boy Studied Ages of boys in years 3-3 4-5 647 Number of older children 13 ll 15 Number of older brothers 6 5 9 Number of garments handed down per boy 15.3 6.4 5.8 Here the aVerage number of garments handed down per boy 'ecreases with his age re5ard1ess of the number of older brothers and sisters in the famil", snare for the girls it increases. This tends to snow that, in the case of handed down garments for boys, more degends ugon the age of the boy and the type of garments worn than u;on the number of older brothers and sisters in the family; also that the older brothers, from 5 to 7 years of age, are harder on their clothing and, ugerefore, do not have as much to pass on as the younger brothers did. in knoniné ‘)1 Many of tee notners questioned were intereete new their chilirens' wardrobes coe;ared ritn thOse of other children, both in content and in cost. Because so few of these \Legt a re cord of their ex e1ditures, it was hard for tnem to .now even toe amount of Honey s;ent in one 'ear for their b‘v \cnildrene' clotnin . The data collected are analyzed nere with . 8 {this in mind. As has been stated before, the record of costs of tne arious garments here ..as de;endent upon tne memory and estimates (v 10f the mctners, and, therefore, cannot be said to be accurate. / Some averages have been worked out, no ever, on tne tneory tnat \ the garnente estinated at too nian a cost would counterbalance f tnOse estimated at too low a cost. \ To determine the nornal fiaures for tne cost of tne 5nardrobe, tne x.e dian or middle figure and the mean, or average Kfigure, mere found for both the total original cost of tne /:ardrobe and tie amount agent on it in One-year. Tie :edian \ figure for cost, it was tnougnt, would eliminate the effect of \axtreze cases of very low or very :‘gh exyeniitures. Girls Altnough the number of cases for tne girls gas small (45) it is believed these data are fairly accurate as tnere aere very few extrer e case a either high or low. It is interestiné to notice in Table XXI; tnat tne median figu res for both the original cost of the .ar roses and the exgenditure in one year gradually increases with the age period. 3 5 .mm.om3 .eoussflsse ensuessm H.m .m.m no nausea s.nm en.nm3 «H.am3 m.mm ms.o3 mm.mm3 me mmsnmsm was H soc m.mm om.mm mo mm .ms 3.0m me.mw ma sum m¢.Hm mm.mm (\1 H (0 (‘0 H (fi L0 I‘- . (0 rd ' U) (0 O (O r—; f 15 (O 10 mo.me3 os.ee3 mMflWIHMmHMleau----illulqu-t-mwm0!tlmdmwuwwdtca I itunuiIImeo Inmmmmw mnjpaficmw4m Hams mco Hucanaao stprCmnxm was mco ancflwano noose ca Ho use chum casuadc1.4m Hench mo pcvonum nads4sd)sum Hmpoa no mmdonn ‘...Il.:-'1."l|nl..|l.lt0.ll'l.l‘-l. ‘1 ItiIIIIIIII '.‘I'Ilr'Il. '!.'.-u.l '..|.Illl.'...|.lll| ) ‘4 fl» mnwwummwuyu!qz!tqiiin ill gthmuman m; fimmuut:!uowbmr. mvpomens. .manflo mo mpmoo some use oedema I o S, . HHHxM mapfie 55. In the mean figures, where the extrene cases have more influence, the averages do not run on a gradual increase, but the mean for the age group 6-7 decreases over that for tne age group 4-5. In general, for these cases, the mean original cost of H) ELI (KI girls! clothing worn in one y rom the ages 3_7 ran frow $33.93 to $96.67. The mean cost of clothing for one year ran from $58.63 C" O f!) U] (t) '.J O) The median figures ran a little lower in both cases, being $74.70 to $86.73 for the original cost and $46.35 to $56.54 for the cost of the wardrobe in one year. The nedian cest of the wardrobe in one year averages 63 her cent of the median original 5 cost. In other words, 60 per cent of the clothing was {urchased new eacn year. In considering the range of ;rice, it must be remembered the majority of this clothing was gurohased frOm August, 589 to August, 1351, xhen the 00st of children's clothing was on the downward trend. Therefore, a gre-ter range in grice for clothing I can be exgeoted than if the price level had been constant. From Table XXI it may be noticed winter coats give the widest range in yrice. The mother wno yaid the least gaid $3.95 fa raid the nost gaid b a coat in the 6—7 year group while the one Who $13.75 for a coat in the 3-3 year group. Age of the child had very little to do 11th the cost of th‘ coats in these cases. The price for fall and s;ring coats ranged from $5.35 to £14.50 uith both the lowest and highest fricee coming in the 4-5 year group. It was surprisinf hat the averave COsts Of winter coats C (0 purcha ed in the winters of 1 39-30 and 1933-31 fOr all classes were similar, being £8.83 for the first winter and $9.76 for the second :inte . Here the diffs ence may be due to the fact that the Children were one year older, in each case for the second year, 1.)". and, therefore, the grice may have averaged higher for larger sizes. Zippers uits r nged in trioe from $1.35 to $15.30, both limits of the range coming in the 4-5 year group and sneater suits a'ged from $3.30 to $6.95 Witfl both liiits codin year group. From this liaited study the inference may be drawn that there is a rider range of rrice within the age grcuys than between the age groups. This assumption may be due to the fact that prices of garments are de endsnt uyon so many nore factors than size, such as kind of material, ylace furcnased, time surchased, whether at tne beginning of the season or on a s..1e, the reyutation of the crand of goods, etc. To su ‘ort tr is assum tion, it was found that both the ugger and loser limits of the entire .rice range of a garment-occurred 13 tines in the 3-3 year group, 9 times in the 4-5 year group, and 6 times in the 6-7 year group, of a possible 60 kinds of garments. This fact sould present, also, a new assum~tion,nane1y, that t here is a gre “ er cnoice in price of garuents in the 2-3 year group than in the otne groups. (0 ‘U Of the headre t st range of :rice ass in the $13 I, the gre hats, and the least difference in gr rice ass in bonnets and helmet Of the indoor garments, the set range in grice can in the everyday cotton dresses, costing from $. 89 to $5.03. Here the most exgensive dress 00st over ten tines as much as the cheajest. This variation as s undouote dly due to the aide difference in duality of material, workmanship, and type of garnsnt fossihle to purchase. Cotton gantie dresses can 3 next ;itn a variation of six tines the ecst, ranging frOm ;.49 to $3.55. Special and silk one giece dresses, sunsuits, bathing 1 suite and jaysuits also had a hide range of prices, the highest . it ."\, , 1, . . T‘ ‘ .4 o Knit/L U113." .L p: K - 'u I}: x 1 (s U .V ' ,r 3 . n 1.7. \ f > r. .1 ' l 110. ,. u '.V L’ b‘») . t J .1 ' ~ ., \‘4.’ , ’ Hire-‘1 J L...§,'r‘fulil., ex).vlJ‘,_.'.Jl,'_, .1; "; ": ,r 1‘ _ 3 \ 7.1-. K) ‘J u .. U l 1 51:; _, I, (1 A . U k) l I I ~, . . . )‘x/ A. J 'J A U s 1 '.r‘1 I_ O “.7 ._) \ _., . ‘. .' L J'J ‘ l. s ‘u ‘11 . . 4.. V J ‘r'. T L. ,“ ‘1 1 .i). _L'.l )J.‘ 1 1 .1 J ' ‘ 1'?“ ."-/' l / L J v Q , v ‘v \.z 4- in, .1 .. 3‘ 1“. '~ ‘ J . \~ , x «,2 . y "I r\ "1 1’1 : 1 ‘ .4. v J ..1 K) 9 , l....:.._i\. - _ _ 4. ”3 1),}: '. "j ‘5 i I j s.) J ‘./ \d , K ‘— ,;.aqg anuw ;_r in- u, v4}. .49 s 59 P‘- y‘t- 3 (l "m: - . ‘ L L J .... \.L_L . -) , . .L. i] ., .j.. : 3 . C,‘ '-- _L ' l \I.‘ E] \l I K} V L.» , ~ .L. t , .... . ,._ gafloia Cjessvs, rlaysiits, son SofifiLirgj s_ at: Coveralls Overalls Elaysuits Rompers Skirts " (‘r’b fl‘ ”L. 1),!"- 34' H .ro“ l - ' r) . \99—1. <1 .. .. a a: .. ~ 4 f - v .- > 1 ‘— u I {1 ‘ l"’l‘ "“ 4 ..z' -.. ..-.s..._.—. ............. .... K" . r“ / f—‘a—q I" -- Q \_‘ o L! . 'qr‘ ”’ '0 ‘0 ‘ .' Q . o. N _, a . _/ z w ,/ ) a o _, _‘ “(.4 ‘ @- ., '. c ’J |-<-‘ 0 j . . . ‘v-v . - 9 0 true ‘I 1.9 I! - ... .7 g I \ / _ m i O . g ‘ o . “7 a k .3. «I 7;, ,, f) .... ‘1‘. } I a a . _1' o a .’ n _" q u» ,_i a J u n “1... .311 o . 1 o’ o . a) ‘ ’\ \,-‘V I‘- \ . z.- \ , 1 9 .‘ j x 1 ,L o o ' x 9 .\/ ~. , .. ., 0— b‘ . ~ . a \_; x.” j .4. ”H'\ _. o - -—’ o JU ”-1 _ I W ,., 2—» . x . ., _ . ‘11 'J VJ ,9, .' ,_/ J Q ~_ a _‘ , .. 5w . .»'~. a .- ’\ I ‘ Le: , A; ,J. 3 ‘)I '4‘]. - C ’7” ' I (<5 l" 1 la '5 “ nun ‘J‘\) (2.1. O 5 ~ 4 ”— __ a ‘ '- 1' i?— P do . f i'.‘ Q via/1 r' ‘1 ‘x' :.I I 1 0 L4“ '5' J. O t ’ > a » -:-~‘ -~—r .—. 5 ~. J‘- - a -..- ,_., ,. ,g .2 -‘“__-_‘- '_..__‘_" -....-s.'., '1-«LCV1 GELInieri x a. yr ”83'1“ . .. C'C—w-"T ..— fl ’1 o. Undorclothing, Sleeping garments Ulionsuits £~ Cotton, summer Cotton, heavy 55 Silk and wool 13 Undershirts a; Bands ._ Comb ina t io n 811 it s ' Um e rwai s t s ‘. ,. I ‘ s.) ( t. . l- . t. . ‘ ... \' .- . f; ‘ '. '. 4 *-‘ \4 ‘ ‘1 Va; -1 \M - . . . ' " ' '.' I °' .Lk. ' t: . x x A . r a 'I‘ r‘dvf. v. v. _'~p‘ ‘. “x ', ‘ \J . .t ‘ c 4 _- ‘..' .4 v __ .— -.. - 0 . v: . ct. (_ ‘ ' I: 1' L4 ‘ ‘.c '~- .1\ -.~ v... I; 5: . ‘. ..iv -_’ .‘ ". ’ I" .__.' .--. 4 ‘u \1‘4 - A“ \. .al 1”, f. . , , , ,. . . . , _ '.. _, . . .— c t d ' . t. l M) I " . b-' 1. . - fl; 8 J . ' 1" l‘! . I - ‘ ‘J .4 .9 d- I . ad ' ”" "’-' v ' 1 » - . u . ...L .). " r _ 9' y ,«r‘ C1.L . .. I ‘\_ -.~~..-~-r.. —’ o i I“ .- 5_ ., ,_ . '.-,. -..-vu—r m ”...—-..- 4 , i~) 4: O" “rices ave ra“ing 5 and 6 tires tiose of the 10 est. 0f the footwear, bedroom slinjers had the greatest . . It, , A II". A a q -1 1 2 . .- ' . range in price, from 5.5: to e5._0, prooaoiy cue to tne erouginb tOgetnsr of all kinds of bedroom sli;,ers, reaariless of the ....4. -— .m -‘ -- “"‘4! 1‘ I‘ - " b .5 - A ' i 1(- matdrlal 0f nulcn one; held male. Eadaals raneci Irom Q.&3 to 55.95, the hi onest grioe being 6 tines tnat of tne lOWest. (D :osie ry led a fairly Hide rang of ,rices, nith anklets in rang (1! cf- tne iiiest ani cotton socks the narrones Tnen stuigri ing tne boys' narirobes, acre extreme cases were found. In one instance, a boy 3 years 011 had an $35.00 fur coat that had seen éiven to him by healthy grand-garents. In another case, the mother of a boy of 7 stated ner son' 3 ward- (u (u {.1 robe was at a ninimum, which state en» a;; ar~ true enough. Here every garment was planned for and s.ade to 10 full service before beirr discarded (1). Such cases as these have affected to scre extent, the lean ani median fi ures of costs for tn In the 47 cases obtained, tne oriiinal cost ranged froi $75.8l to $33.23, nhiOn aii not increase for the 6-? age 5r0up. The medians for tne cost to tne family in one year ranbea from $35.0 to $47.49, increa sing with each age group. The melians for tie cost of tne narirobe in one year average 53 :er ent of the neiian oriéinal cests of the wardrobe. (Jence, about 53 per cent of “are roses vmns :urcnased nee each year; therefc e, tne average garments last tho years.) Tne mean costs of the tararobes are n'ghe , snoglng the .C‘ A J. ..c ... .1, 4— .“, ‘ ,-. -. . -. .-. 5 - A 1 -: - .-= 1 fl " ‘ afieot oi entreie cases. The neans for the oiibinal costs 01 tne (1) Kosher was a Kore Ec onOaiCs Ore .iuate. 4.44 p. r mo.mm .moflss dnmwcspm o.m«upwoo new poopufie .m. one pence¢ “.4“ He.mm .GOflpsH>nd daddies) m.m « pnoo How an“; .m. m mo padoe< .mm.smflm o4 mesa4m snap magmas HH44 an vmfidaocfl ma amp“ mfinp mH .waaeo map 0» pmHmP moo HdH o..mmw cm wee moonw man» QH * s.nmv an. s.» em.dofi m.mm nm.ns. an.oe4 es essesss m.©ev mm.nnw fine Hepoa m.em nn.me Ho.mw m.mm m¢.ue mw.ow ma bum m.nm me.om nm.mn m.nm om.me mm.mm ma mse n.4mv ow.ssav a.mev mo.mem *mm.nmwv m.m¢ mo.mmw am.mnm ma mum News- wmewlem- - - - --.-.- -- -... - - - .-.mmem. - mom 3.0- .4445..- 2-5..de enjpad46 4%» HSnx mdo Hmnamfipo mampafiemmwm m: moo Hecamano mmmeo -mm- mewwmmm. .. $4,683.. WWII-HM%LHF - no smegma. 3.4.4.».4mmw ”mm? - - Hesmlluoe no .. -... ...i -:. .. 39me csm . . .. mmwb..- 3mm“. -....mbmrma UefiwSpm whom be you menonflnms no mpnoo Gem use qwfifimn bxx Danae warirobes range from 379.57 to 339.31 with an average for all the age grou1s of 335.35. Tne aeans for tne costs in one year a; C51 C) O) lirerisc are nicner t an tne median figures, ranéing from to 350.48. From Table XXV it hill be noticed that tnese are not arra oed in a naturally increasing order as would be exgeoted. This arrangement may be due to the smallness of tne group samgled. It .111 also ce notie ed tnat tne gercentaae of the (LH) w Irrcnas d in one year varied gr tly, the averaée being J. (I; wardrobes 55.7 per cent of tne original cost. In other Lords, each garment was worn apfiroximately two years. To determine to wnat extent the mothers nad a cranes to q control the cost of tneir boys' Lardrcce, tne garments have o (1) en listed in Table XXVI, snowing the range of ;rice of eacn kind or ty;1e of ga r.r ent. Here is found a greater nrioe range than niént be exgected. Due to the small size of the samele, it was not tncug t advisable to separate tne different kinds of garments according to the aaterial of which "hey were nade. For instance, get m'er. the wool, cotton, and fur winter coats rere listed to In considering tne range of price for tne outdoor garments, the greatest range is found in tne winter coats xnere an 33 .OO fur coat, a g1: t to a 3 year old L1oy, is over 36 times as eat in price as tne oneazest coat at 31.5 . Even if tne 0“} H furceat is not considu ed, tne ni nest zriced coat at 315.30 would be 10 times the cost of tne 10 est :riced coat at 31.50. This act is ;robably due to tie great difference in asterials and quality possible in winter coats. easings an; button-up saeaters also nad a wide range, “’09 tne nibnest price av1ra¢ing 7 and 8 times tne lowest price. 59. Kittens and gloves had a surfrisinbly #133 range 41th t to 33.03 for the most ex gensive. Here On: 3.30 for tne onea;e tr. are is a 4ide ra ng«e of material and type of hand covering possible. The most exnensive nat cost eleven time s as much as the oneapest hat. In tnis case, also, hate of all kinds of materials, seen as straw, tueed, and felt, were grouped tcgetner. Berets and toques had the narrowest price ranges of tne headgear. Everyday suits for ccys cost from 3.50 to 33.95 and special suits (sucn as linen, and Sunday-best cc t ton suits) cost ‘ from 3.93 to 35.00, site a hiéner out narrOLer grice range (6 times for every day suits, 5 times for s,ecial suits). Wool suits for boys also had a side range, tne nost ex exisive being 6 times tne least ea,.e11sive. COVsralls, playsuits and trousers all nad a range of from 7 to 8 times tne grice. Eignt03s 4ere tne nlbnsst in grice of the foct4ear costing from 33.50 t0_$5.50, but tneir nianest cost see less than twice the lowest. This small variation is grobably due to the fact that higntcps are a fairly standardized article of clc tning and triers is not as mucn variation in tne material and construction possible as in boys' suits, for instance. In general, the highest :rice for boys' footwear is not over tnree times the lowest grice. Of the underclctning, silk and tool union suits are not only tne most expensiVe, ran5.n5 from 3 50 to 33.50, but also (b tne article saving tn- hidcet encic in grice. Tne low. st and ' (l.- 1 I ‘ia;w st griced articles not" cole 1n tne 2-3 year Urou; unis; m1O‘Ns extreme cases, or a side variation in tne duality of garment obtained. *- 7: , 4r» .4 . t. I» 2 .4 J . \' x. .7 ‘ u “ ._, .4 x. N». .. a \‘n .- " m y;- -‘ A ’ .7‘ ' ‘3 r 7 >4.) 4 u L): L t: ~ - ' i: f . 4 ..9 ~ 1‘ . .... J3 .. " or” 7“ 3 ., : . 4 5:1 i it. 2‘ 5, C: "‘ ...... " ‘2 uOV‘fi‘l "L J. S overuiin . \. I' 5.. Pleyeuits Rompers Trousers Blouses Shoes Hightoos Slippers Oxfords Sandals Galoshes Rubbers Bedroom slinoers Cotton socks Silk and wool socks Anklets Cotton stoCkings Silk and wool—stockings Garters Garter belt‘ Underclothing and Sleeoing garments Unionsuits Light cotton Heavy cotton Silk and wool Undershirts Bends Underwsists Separate panties Bathrobes Pajamas _Nightgowns or shirts Factor of variation means the number of highest one. a ) . - Q‘ i ‘7 "V '7 .I s ', .. 0' . -/ ‘4. . I _. ~ _/ r' . " c 'I ‘ “I —" -_ a — .2“ v) 1 j 75“ ‘1 ,"'\l ‘-, 9 J/w *- 9 '4 . ._ ..- K,‘ I)? 3.. 'x‘ {we} . L..\J 4.. o ..:_/ I‘." .. ...,“ .1 9'4 ,‘ 1."?‘34' q A. , QC}... ‘ v.5 z J 9 / l "r "3 '1 . J- (as: {-9 15 0,20“ '75 3.50- .50 1.?5- .oo 1.39 .oo . 453-» ":9 1.?5— . 5 .65- . 0 ~ 0 I v.1 w is w 01 421:1 «C’ O -...I .1 (._ o o 5 o ?4 rsrsx if J k.) R) U I I l I H’F‘ \Vq o o I o C) (4) 3.. J K 0 fl ( I 34.5 0 C) \fl 3:) O \J‘l \Jl C‘Q C) 15-1 K40 ' A) C) C) k 3 We .sss 1.00 .5o- ?.oo .50~ 3.50 .25- “.so .29- .85 .15- .75 .25- .50 1.50~ h.oo .50- 3.00 .50- .?5 times the lo3 -4 .4”;— - 4.“ E. V 3r-q pats-53 mire + All?“ 3*“ KM ‘5- o) u; + + 3 Q m [‘0 K)! U\\-I\l \N + 3M: \ K.) ‘ (’4 x ,3. CLJKH “2%“, [‘33 KM kiwi W ..a {.1 ‘.44 ._$_. ng‘f (‘.l:\ "q .4, W UN fl) f‘O‘Jl D») \‘ U1 1‘0 3' i-' 3'09 .- \ . I; . l‘ I ’ 0 « v a \r :4 0 I . 4 .1 .1 u 9‘ 4) a. 4 I s /l ' 5 l 1“. ‘ ‘ I I..- - v- - -ll 'I' I'll '5‘!" I I- 'I ‘ '1' it: i"!"i‘i L . c .IIII'- Ill." I'll. v. ‘ 11 I!!! ....I .3. III. .I Iv :I Itr. .. .- I . J t . s _ .. , . 4 , ...» l V‘ no a o v . . .. s :L lo ..4 4 . 4. u x 1 I. '1‘n4l14Ifl‘4. o 1" W‘s-o” t\ . ' u t .b l . 1 . . . so . I 6. V . 4Q v I .u ,. + .1) y ...:un .A‘. . q .l. 4 . ‘ ‘1 . 1‘ . A 1 I ll r , v 0' I r i c . 4 u k 1 ,\ § ' ~ . .{ N u u. — u u 1 A. \ ,. n F .1 .I l 1 II I. _\t r O t Lt 61. In general the gardents .nere tner is the least :ossi4 le variation in rate rials use‘ 1, quality of 4orkmans hi1, and tyge of garnent, have the narro4est 1rice range. The articles of clotnizc of nichest cost tere 3001 three giece boys' suits, D ‘8 winter coats, tall and egring coats, and zig1er suite. The articles haviné the 4idest range of grice tere 4inter coats, iats, and mittens. The articles having the lo est range of price sere raincoats, sueatersuits, ro4pers, hiahtOgs, rubbers, bands, separate ganties, and nibhtshirts. C. Durability o§_Garrents q Because there are so many factors influencing the durability of a aargent, it tes found tz‘1at very fe w 00‘. clusions could actually be obtained frOm the data. It had been planned to compare the cost of the gar '4ent, and the amount of rear hith the condition of the garment. In the process of obtaining the material, ho ever, it became increasingly evident that tne aneunt and kind of wear could not be accurately obtained and, therefore, the discussion on durability will be very limited. There ajgears to be a definite lack of 1ure durability studies of cnildres' s clothing. A scientific study in 4nicn the tyge and construction of a garment an; the ty;e of sear it re- eived could oe controlled, 4ould be valuable. Such a study, however, hould not allow for gossiLle accidents to the garments sucn as paint stains, tears, un. is4 laundering, etc. To find the actual durability of a garment in use, a detailed study of gerhaps two hundred of the same type of raruents, such as Loys' suits or girls' dresses, would be nelgful. In this study there was determined the a oroximate number of 4.onths a child had :orn a garment, and roughly the kind of aear ey dress, or 1.. 4' «n- ' 4‘. ‘., '.4, r. .. r~ . .. it had received, 4netner constait as an ever " CC. 6 intermittent as a best or Sunday dress. In addition, the tyge of garment and tie kind of rear received 4ere recoi rded. Even in such a limited study, it was exgected cast the tion of a garme nt and its ag would corresgond. In Figure I L): ..1. con only everyday suits and dresses in fair condition 4ere used, because tnese offered the argest number of cases of the wa4e ty of garment. It was also expected that tne lengtn of near before a garment would arrive at tne fair condition stage sould vary according to the n m4er of otner garments of similar tyge in tne wardrobe. From tnis san e, the number of months of wear a11ear to have n.ore ef set on boys' suits tnan u1on girls' dresses. Tne majority of boys' suits in medium condition had been worn from 4 4 to 6 months, 4nile Uh: majority of Cirls' dresses in medium condition 13d been torn from 1 to 18 nontns. This nide range in tne nearing geriod of the dresses sno4s the 1robable effect of many other factors influencing tne durability of a garment sucn as construction of ne garment, durability of the material, de Bree of hard wear given by the cnill, kind of laund ering and tne tyge of care it received. Number in wardrobe B. Number in wardrobe Figure I Scatter Diagram Life of Everyday Garments in Medium Condition in Relation to the Total Number of Everyday Garments in the Wardrobe. Girla' Dresses 63. 0-3 4-6 ’fiumber ofimonths of#near 7-9 ;0-13 13-15 15-18 19-31 33-34 35‘37 1-4 5-9 10-14 15-19 30-34 be-ee Boys' Everyday Suits ‘ F 0-3 4-6 Number of months of sea 7-9 10-13 13-15 16-18 19-31 33-84 25-27 is 5.9 5-29 ‘ T40 to five ears inclusive, only. Chapter IV Conclusions 64. Chapter IV 65. Conclusions A. 004 awrison mof Con_te mnt _of Girisfl and mBoys' tar fir Seuss. Three assuagtions generally accegted relating to the //L‘M ' - r content of boys' and girls' wardrobes are: boys need a smaller number of articles of clothing and, therefore, their wardrobes contain fewer garments; boys' clothing is more com; licated to make and, therefore, there is a araller number of hannade garments in their wardrobes; boys give their clothing harder 1: wear than girls and, therefore, not as many garments are 1. \handed down. In this discussion an atteuyt will be made to point out tne_differences and sinilarities in the content of boys' and girls' wardrobes and, as nearly as possible from this small number of cases, to check the assumjtions above. Generally speaking, the total number of articles of clothing did averag4 more for the girjs than for the boys, but the major articles of clothing such as a total of outdoor wraps, and suits and dresses were surprisingly euaal in numbers. The ”)3 My) Mum! . W Wulmu girls exceeded the 4ays in acts” hosde ry,‘tflmfiaoa and bat4r04es. ' (1.44.. 0 $141: 4H,; KMQ 43»- "1 Tne~..boys-~~sneezede--d—~-~t'34s34:.filaminaihitieilsfméasaethe , and 1115:. mph-33 1 ~51 .. ~ shoes. Considering these garments in detail, the boys aVeraaed only .4 raincoats per boy as congared to 475 raincoats yer girl. 4 ; From tLiS it cannot be assumed that the boys we re in the rain less, but rather that they 4ore a hen ty e of éa’rne nt, the mackinaw, or a leather jacket. In tne 6-7 year age group, lhere raincoats are the most needed, the boys averaged .75 jackets each. This new article of clothing, the jacket, seems also to have a decided effect ugon the number of boys having winter coats. .ere the number of ainter coats per boy ends to increase, tee same as for the girls, unt *Jn l the sonool age is reached where it drOps to less than one coat per child. If the jacket substitute is added to the winter coats, however, the number of tinter outer garments torn :er boy garallels clOsely that of the girls as sho n below. Table XXVII Comparison of Number of Outdoor Garments for Boys and Girls of Different Age Groups .Ages in_years Garments b-EMW 4-5' 6-7 Winter coats pe girl 1.05 1.3 1.58 Winter coats and jackets per boy 1.06 1.43 1.61 The boys have no summer coats and fener fall and s1ring coats than the girls with an increased number, however, of heavy sweaters that are substituted for the coats. It is interesting to notice that in the school age group the number of heavy sseaters suddenly falls off for the boys showing that the jacket above mentioned not only substitutes for the winter cost but also for the fall and spring coats and heavy sweaters. During this period 5 of the 16 boys aere found 1os4essing heavy 3 giece tool suite. If the total number of outdoor garments for the boys and girls of the different age grougs are compared, the nuaber of i7. outer trays ger 5irl slightly increases but for the boys it ‘ gradually decreases as seen in the taole below. Tasle XXV III Number of All Outdoor Garments per Child According to Age Groups Ages in years 5-3 4-5 6-? Girls 5.36 5.37 6.39 Boys 6.17 5.78 4.89 This decrease for bo ‘Jrs is gr robably due to the greater firmness of ma erial used in the older boys' clothing (as, leather jackets) and to the greater suitability of these garments for all occasions. Likewise, the boys averaged fewer gieces of he ugear than the girls (3 to 35) with tne helmets (l) tne most worn by the boys, closely followed by cage (8). Berets and tans (3) were the host gogular 31th tne girls with hats next in numoer (4). With mittens, hcuever, the boys exceeiei tne 5irls (3.3 gairs for the boys, 1.8 yairs for tne 5irls) cit tr ey had fewer :airs of gloves (.3 fer boy; .5 yer girl) than the girls. It is interesting as well, to compare the average number of indoor outer gar:ients for the boys wit; that for the girls. These figures include all the garments similarly xorn, such as girls' dresses, boys' suits,: aysuits, sunsuits, coveralls, .6 caps per boy. 2. O berets ani tans per girl. gli. Shelmets per boy. 9 3 (4) .5 hats per girl. O] (A J 77 a overalls, trousers, and skirts. nere olouses and shirts were purQOsely left out because they do not make a comglete change of outer garment. Table XXIX Number of Indoor Outer Garments per Child According to Age Groups Ages in years 2-3 A. 4-5 6-7' Boys 80.6 16.4 11.8 Girls 19.1 16.3 16.0 _. --—=.-.- - ‘.— -. These fi 5ures gara llel each Other closely up to the school group. The sudden drOp for boys is probably due to these boys depending auch nore on shirts for a clean garment unit than tr e girls did uson blouses. If the boys' blouses are added instead of the trousers tne numb ers are even c10se r to gather, being 15.3 for the 6-7 year period gor tne boys and 16.1 for the girls. Both the girls and the boys wore slip-on-sueaters a great deal in place of blouses. Congaring the total nurrcer of pairs of footwear horn by the boys and girls, the girls ave ra5e ed sli:htly nore than the boys with the number increasing slig tly in both cases as the age increased. It may be noticed in Table X that where oxfords and shoes were the most worn by the boys (.8 for shoes and 1.6 for exfords), slippers "ere by far the most aorn by the 5irls, averaging 3 pairs per girl with Oxfords and sandals coming next (.5 pair each fer girl). Bedroom slippers, 5aloshes, and rubbers were about sesally worn by beta the girls and boys. 6* U0 With hosiery, the boys averaged fewer pairs than the girls (13 fairs yer boy; 15 gairs per girl). This difference nay be due to the boys going stockingless and barefooted more than the girls. While bathrobes were fairly gopular ”ith the boys they here not as generally worn by tnem as by the girls (.9 -;er 5ir1; .6 ;er boy). Trenty-six of the 47 boys had bathrobes as coagared to 34 of tne 45 boys. The number of sleeping garnsnts per boy was slightly larger than the number per girl, avera5in5 nearly 6 for the boys and nearly 55 for the 5ir1s. B. HOme5§§aingg One of the assumptions 5ensrally accepted in reagect to the amount of home sewing done is that boys' 5araents, being in 5eneral of a nore coaglieated nature than 5ir1s', are less often homemade than girls' garments. The Qresent study, base upon fiy'cases of moderate income families, tends to sugport his idea. Considering the wnole group, the 5irls avera5ed 11.5 homenade garnents and the boys 3 5araents each. The dOst numerous articles of clothing “onemade here boys' suits (l) ) and girls' dresses (3), but tne percenta5es, @016V6r, hard much ) smaller for the former than the latter. -fl.5- "5 ,n- A gaiaents acre hale ior . Not only a shaller number 0 H> he the boys, but also a shaller nu her 0 toys than 5irls more none v/\// 29 of 4:8 suits worn, or 7 per cent. 40 per cent of pantie dresses, 33 ger cent of one giece dresses. “A D) F4 vv 70. {IL.(«_ ’ \\\ made clothing. Table XXX snows.tnat only 1/5 of the boys as capared to 1/8 of the girls, had 10 or more heme nade garments in their wardrobes. Fourteen boys possessed.no home constructed garments, coayared to only 4 of tie 45 girls fossessing none. For both the boys and girls the amount of heme Sewing was done mostly for the 8-3 year old children. The average number of garments nade per child for the three age grougs was 5, ZBand 3 resjectively for the boys, and 15, 11 and 6 respectively for the ~irls This decrease in home seeing as the age of the child increases may be partially due to the \ increased amount of work in the home as the family groes older and to a change in the tyre of garments torn. ‘ It is often thought that the size of the family as well as the age andisex of tLB children has a definite relation to the amount of hone se ing done. Considering the shall number of cases, it was ingossible to draw definite conclusions from this study but the general observations nay be interesting. Eliminating two extreme cases, it was noticed that ’ ecrease in the number of ( ) garments made in the home as the size of the family increased \ \. p. ‘1‘ there was a decided an gradual. r3 from one to 5 children. In only one case were there over 0 ‘1 ' (f home mace garments then th ere were 5 children in the fanily. \ In no cases aere there over 18 garments .ade .ith 4 CD .ildren i in the family and in only one case were there over £2 garments/ made with 3 in tb e fan.ily. 71. able XXX Home¢ade Garments in Girls' ani Bogs' Tarirovea Numbcr of hoae- Hangar 3Ufi36 maie garments of girls' Of boys' Total in the EEEEEEEE_._____.__.____%£i£§Eé§__ ~i£éagbgs 0-0 ‘= 4 . 1-4 9 17 as ’~/‘ 5—9 - 11 ' 10-14 9 15-19 6 20-24 8 35-39 3 5 33-34 - - - 35-39 1 1 Total 45 47 $3 Figure II E0¢egaae arments in Girls' an: Boys' Earirobea m :3 25 G) H (--.-\ ‘ ——1 rd ”U ‘Lkr." ,4 m ’ ...4 '1) 3,0 0 o 15 s... ‘8 3 10 ‘H g ’ \ a) 5 X .0 1 a I \ »; ~ 0 \ -' “‘ N“ #4 .' - ' :r. 23 “1' <3 :3 2: an c Number of c? ?' g: $ :5 f% .& (g g garments 0 H. :0 H a ‘4 an Ir) a Nuiber of girla' wardrobss containing nOue mags earmcnta T -- 1h) 4: .\ r q. - o- <9—‘-a'\.‘\ ) ‘« ". fi"~‘ V. r " “‘ an“): OJ. UOJD hC'vat-LVUMU Cv.ibaii1in5 - .- - - ll 4.3 I d. #3 =1. 11;. in J- 3 (u C. :.una.dd doc-n Gar“: 'rltfl Contrary to tne often accegtei aseun1tion tnat‘boys \ 5ive harder near to tn:ir clot21in5 tnan 5irle and, therefore, should bani down fener garments, tne boys in this etuiy pOes seed (I) nearly tuice as many 1r reviouely norn 5-11ents as tne 5irls, averaging 8.4 to 4.5 reagectively. This may incite wonder until it ie considerei teat the tyre of boys' garments chan5es at a rapid rate oonparei to tnat for girls. From romger suits the boys 01% n5 e to snort- le5 5e i cotton suits, to txeei trousers witn/ 1 , ' blofieefi, ani then to ailored suite nitn snirts, :nile girls ' continue to 1ear die see from babyhood on. This fact, then, \I'HJ would not mean that the hove iii not 5ive as Lari wear to thei , f garnents as the girls, but that tney more ties snorter le —n th\ \ v .I l a 5ed to :ore masculine clo tl1i TIC}- Tl'D \ fo \ Other factors influenc n5 the passing on of torn boye'> garments nay be tne doracility of the material engloyed and the / firnneee of tne construction since notners and manufactirers K ) \ \ ex1ect boys to 5ive clotnin5 narl near. A 5irl, also, may be 1 K able to near a JIGed tm's is too snort be.ter tnan a boy a pair\\ \ of trousers that 18 too ti5nt. "“ Tne 5reatest cnan5e a1pears to be from the gre-eenool to tne kinder5arden 5roup for tne boys as twice as nany 1revi0tsly worn garnents were yoeeeeeed by tne first 5roup as by the kinder- garflen and sonool groups. Tnese boys averaged 13 handed down 1- garments as con110ared to Q for tne 5irl s of tne save age. The difference seeas to be in tr e lar5er number of boys' euite, {D play suits, gaire of ;aja ‘ s a- .i LOsie ry re 0 ived tnan similar rarnents received b the tirle. 5 Y a (‘v ‘0 n; For mittens, slip-on—eae re, r1eavy s1 aaters, and wher for the boys than houseslippers, the percenta5es mere also hi5 for the 5irls, snoring that the girls more often wore out these ty1es of clothing than the boys. D. Average Ta¥§F9F§P19P a} fere nt Q es In orier to facilitate the mothers in usin5- this material, avera a5e wardrobes have been workei out for the different age groups for hot11 he boys and the girls. Column three of the following tables 5ives the ra n5e of yrice of the different 5arnents for that particular age 5ronp. The mean fi5ure of this ran5e of price was selected as tne avera5e cost of the 5arnent in 1831. Tee last column represents tne actial eQ enliture to ootain the evera 5e tarirobe. From the steiy as 1reviously stated, however, the avera5e amount of tne ori5inal Value of the wardrobe 1urchased in one year was 63 per cent for the 5irls, and 56 per cent for the boys. To determine the probable exgenditure in one year tneee per cents were used in each case. It is interestin5 to compare the results with the mean and neiian fi5ures worked out from the ori5inal data. In 5eneral, they are aggroximately the same . Table XXXIa Avera5e vardrobes for Girls \. A (I . ‘ A58 2-3 a B......... _- ‘ -----.Z--- - . 3 - f __ '- ’ " Prieem "IEAhT” otél ' Garment Q.-_-------_-----_--3???§P----3?§E£L--_-}3}E§ 992:_ Winter coat 1 33. 00-18. 75 M13 88 310. 88 'xLe55ings 1 f2? 3.35 3.25 {~Heavy sweaters 1 3.97 8.8 :HSIifi-on-sweater 1 2 02 2.52 -Eittens 3 68 69 éereta s 1.24 9.48 :Everyday dresses 4 1.17 4.68 '81eoia1 dresses 8 5.65 7.50 'fPantie dresses 8 1 78 13 76 ’u8yn suits , 1 1 83 l 38 3’5 0/:- .__e 1; / Play suite 1 54 .54 ; Coveralls 1 , . 75 .75 ‘351ippers 8 1.50- 4.00 a 75 5.50 isfiedroom slipgers 1 .59- 8.50 1 45 1.45 -»Galoshes or (1 50- 3.85 (3 33 rubbers 1 ( 00- 500 ( 80 1. 51 VgCotton seeksCLLkifiJ 5 - 59 .34 1.70 /;knk&ets 3 ”7 .53 .39 _;;“g 5 20- .50 .35 1.05 ;4841k~and<figgl stEEETnEEZ: s 49- 1.2” .835 1.65 Garters 1 10- .35 .175 .17 Union suits, light 1 :5— 9 61 61 Union suits, neavy 1 .75- 1 50 1 8 1 18 Union suits, silk and 5001 l 1.50— 8 53 3 00 2 CO Undersnirts 1 .35- .79 .53 .53 Bands 1 :5- 75 .50 .50 Conbination suits 3 .50- 1.85 1.£~o “.45 Undernaists l .95- l 00 .635 .63 /l$eparate panties 5 . .‘83 .35 1.75 f‘Petticoats 4 .59Fc3~95 1.165 4 es faBathrobes l l..0- 5.00 5.00 3.0 A'Pa amas 4 /. 06L .