THEE RELATEONSHEP 8F PRESTEGEOUS CLOTBIHG T0 AflEEPE‘AE‘ECE BY ”EBB PEER (£303? 0? MOLESCEK? BOYS ARE} GERLS T305222 Em- ike Deg-m oi: M. A. MECHEGEN STATE UNE‘EER‘SHY Francina Johanna van Staden E979 mum; “Emmi E 1m w 111 um NE 111) m 9 ABSTRACT THE RELATIONSHIP OF PRETIGIOUS CLOTHING TO ACCEPTANCE BY THE PEER GROUP OF ADOLESCENT BOYS AND GIRLS BY Francina Johanna van Staden The main purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the wearing of prestige clothing—- "fashion" accepted by the group--and different aspects of informal peer acceptance. The study grew out of a larger project which dealt with—relatiQnship§~D§Lween—social_gl§§§L_ p ' ' ation in the al sch99l_9rganigation, informal ‘_ 89Wm_an,d__w y -1:o.anau mmumuaccl x 333 i :5 son 3,. O D .. mmw so \I/ An lb audit Hanan: m . saw . fie :u find on 22 NH man a k 2 «a a: .3 an . ms was man c g \1/ 9 O O G :vu.au=oo= «ulna: moouocmpz -euOOOAOuH . ouufiouu . uuuauoou AconcLucoov .H mpomam D m. m m. a m. .1 ...- 1K 28 ] .11 I... . . _ _ 1-. .7: m... E. mm. s. .. a s. 3 E N F... L E .voozwcoo:ucouuo~OmH :w~om=-mmouu~OOH :vouo:w~:-~ooumHOmH :osuh:u~mOUmEOmH m m: m _ 2 92 2 was ”on I: Q N a . .. . . .1. 41...... m mm as was . _. .3 mm. 3 ML 2 2 2 1? .IJ . . . mm.“ «gm 2H3 M N . flmw .mlL .. . :m... B ”8. _ m 8. If 12.: 8 § 1 1 L .l... . 1. kW .2; Elihu-“ can _ o m IIIJmW& ILIL .._ V xTAl g I Q _ .1- . J. .01.] IIIJ. r Mom - . WW ”8.1.. 8: Basil m: rl1L (.12.. [IL .111. E .2 firm as L @d mm“ _3 .0 Mi“... _ENINJ. all- . w I . a a... a S a... .2 L #:11 me «a co fimmw ”IIJ .1:. mi... 9 3 R 5 8. cm IE 3 ab. 3. H.113 .rll. .11.. mm. 3, a .9 GEE m: S no a .2 J Lme 2:3 ”moon: 29 Three distinct friendship patterns emerged from the sociograms--reciprocal friendship structures, mutual pairs, and isolates. The sociograms revealed 16 reciprocal friendship structures ranging from three to 45 members. The two largest struc- tures were divided into segments for analytical purposes and the segments are RFS 6, 11, 12, 15, 18, and 19.2 Identification of friendship groups containing the most pOpular students was as follows: a. Fifteen or more choices as pOpular students were used as criterion for pOpularity. b. Friendship groups containing these students were identified (marked in Figure l on pages 27 and 28). The most pOpular students were found to be members of RFS 11, 15, and 19 except one who was a member of RFS 12. RFS ll (8 subjects), 15 (13 subjects) and 19 (18 subjects) were accepted as the groups with the most pOpular students. Twenty-nine isolates were included in the study. The pOpularity score which was used in Hypothesis B was determined by counting the number of choices as "the most pOpular student in your grade" that a subject received. The leadership score which was used in Hypothesis C was determined by counting the number of choices as "student in your grade whom you would most like to represent your high school at a meeting of high school students" that a subject received. lIbid. , p. 41. 2Ibid., p. 45. 30 The dating partner score which was used in Hypoth- esis D was determined by counting the number of choices as "student in your grade that you would most like to date" that a subject received. Clothing The techniques for measuring clothing leadership (rating subjects' clothing on a prestige-rejection continuum) was develOped to parallel Horn's technique for measuring clothing conformity used for the larger project.1 In gen- eral the technique identified garments or garment features which revealed a modal pattern. Before the collection of data the investigators made several trips to the school to determine the variety of clothing items within the categories selected which were worn by the sample. Observers noted the different items of dress worn and informal discussions with students gave fur- ther indications of clothing categories and items within categories which carried significant importance to students. Clothing worn by the students in the sample were divided into different categories consisting of varying numbers of items (Appendix C, page 86). These clothing HMarilyn J. Horn, "A.Method for Determining Norma- tive Patterns of Dress," Proceedings of the National Tex- tiles and Clothing Meeting, Minneapolis, Minnesota, June 19—22, 1968, pp. 49-55. 31 categories were pretested by taking fashion counts1 to check for possible omissions. Categories with frequency counts which revealed no modal pattern and those with very high conformity without any deviations were omitted from the data collecting device because the main purpose of the larger project was to measure conformity to the mode. The latest fads were therefore not included among items in the ques- tionnaire. Fads which were not considered did exist since remarks about an eye patch as the latest fad appeared on the completed que st ionna ire . The questionnaire included sketches of each item within every category. Students were asked to write "in" under the item that they considered to be "the newest thing going" and "out" under items considered to be "completely out of it" in every category (Appendix C, page 93). The questions were checked to insure that the items included would be apprOpriate for the season. The prestige value or value as accepted "fashion or fad" that students gave to every item in every category was determined by counting the number of student choices falling in every clothing category. An "in" as well as "out" per- cent score of total possible for each item was then worked out. For example: 1A sample group of 100 subjects were used and the number of times that every item in all the categories selected for the questionnaire appeared was checked. 32 "In" "out" Girls' Skirt Length About 6" Above Knee 35 4 About 4" Above Knee 39 0 About 1-2" Above Knee 25 0 At Knee Cap 0 2 Just Below Knee 0 2 2" Below Knee l 92 The percent scores for each item in all the categories are given in Tables 1 and 2 on pages 33 and 34. A 16 millimeter movie was taken of each subject as he or she walked out of the room and this film was used to determine which item the subject was wearing in every cate- gory. The prestige clothing score for each individual was calculated as follows: a. "In" score Obtained for the item worn in every category multiplied by number of items in every category. b. "Out" score obtained for the item worn in every category multiplied by number Of items in every category. c. Total of "in" scores minus total "out" scores equals prestige clothing score. d. Prestige clothing score plus constant (1000). This was necessary to make all scores positive. Prestige clothing scores were arranged on a continuum from high to low and were determined by subtracting "out" score from "in" score for every individual. Since students did not agree on which specific item was the "newest thing going" Table l. 33 Percent scores for boys' prestige clothing items Clothing Category In Out Clothing Category In Out Boys Trouser Length Boys Shirt Tails ' In or Out Long with wrinkle 0 83 Top of Shoe l9 0 *Dress Shirt IN 28 12 *Ankle 45 1 Dress Shirt OUT 38 16 2" Above Ankle 29 0 Pullover OUT 32 9 4" Above Ankle 7 '16 Pullover IN 0 32 Jac Shirt OUT 1 31 Boys Trousers Fit Boys Socks Color Very tight l8 9 *Tight 49 0 White 3 78 Medium 34 0 *Dark 64 1 Loose O l Patterned 0 12 Baggy 0 90 Light 3 4 No Socks 31 5 Boysp§hirt Collars ngs Shoes *Botton-down 67 0 - Convertible 5 21 Slip on with Collarless 3 15 Buckle 3 3 Knit shirt, plain O .45 Slip on 20 0 Collar 0" 3 *Penny Loafer 26 2 Turtle Neck 12 3 Tassel Loafer 10 0 Jersey or High TOp Loafer 8 0 Sweatshirt 10 3 .Moccasin 7 3 Mock Turtle Neck 3 14 Dark Blue Tennis 8 2 Other Color Boys Shirt Fabric Tennis 3 2 Design Low sided, White Sport Tennis 2 2 *Solid Color 20 7 Open Weave Fabric 0 5 Small Stripe 44 6 Tie Oxford 2 0 Plaid 3 l3 Wing Tip 2 5 Large Print 13 20 High cut, Pointed Small Print 4 8 Toe, Dress Shoe 7 5 Horizontal Stripe 13 8 Desert Boot 0 2 Polka Dot 4 38 Cowboy Boot 2 39 Military or Work Boot 2 31 *Category mode.(used in studies dealing with conformity to the mode). 34 Table 2. Percent scores for girls' prestige clothing items Clothing Category In Out Clothing Category In Out Girls §kirt Length Fabric Design on Dress or Skirt 6" Above Knee 35 4 4" Above Knee 39 0 *Solid Color' 10 12 *1-2" Above Knee 25 0 Small Print 10 1 At Knee Cap 0 2 Medium Print 10 3 Just Below Knee 0 2 Large Print 10 6 2" Below Knee l 92 Psych. Print 33 9 Polka Dot 3 7 Leg Covering. Small Stripe 10 0 Medium Stripe l 1 C1. Text. Knit Hose 19 7 Large Stripe 0 18 Fish Net Hosiery 25 l Plaid l 10 Colored Hosiery 26 1 Small Stripe Plaid 7 1 *Plain Nylon Hosiery 26 l Gingham Check 1 30 Knee Socks 1 0 B. Socks-Anklets 0 79 Girls Shoes No Covering 3 10 Penny Loafer 25 5 Type of Clothing *Plain Loafer 9 2 Tassel Loafer 14 0 *Dress 17 7 Buckle Loafer 2 2 Skt. & Shell or Swt 9 4 High Top 5 3 Skirt and Blouse 0 13 Moccasin 25 14 Skirt, B1. & Sw. 0 19 Tie Oxford 2 14 Jumper and Blouse 0 11 White Tennis Shoe 2 9 Suit 0 30 Colored Tennis 2 9 Culottes & Blouse 2 0 Plain Flats 0 l4 Pants Dress 22 2 Flats with Open Sh. Shift—with Pant 50 15 Work 0 6 . ' Sandal 9 8 §i1houette Patent Block Heels 2 2 Stack Heels 2 13 *A-line l9 0 Shift 24 0 Tent 24 10 DrOp Waist, Flare or Pleated Skirt 9 12 Straight, Nat. Waist 3 3 Nat. Waist, Gathers 7 41 Nat. Waist, Pleats 3 16 Empire Waist, Gather 10 17 *Category mode (used the mode ) . in studies dealing with conformity to 35 or which one was "completely out of it," almost every item received some "in" and some "out'I counts. The measurement problem was to reconcile the differences in frequency count for each item. The modal item in each category was included when prestige clothing scores were calculated because the stu- dents did in some cases consider the mode to be more pres— tigious than the "newest thing going" thereby indicating that some of the students gave a rejection value to a new item. (This item might or might not be accepted later but had a limited prestige value at the time of data collection.) Selection of the Sample The subjects selected for the research project con— sisted of the entire SOphomore class of a central Michigan high school. The school is the only high school in the city and serves the entire city and surrounding rural area. Its students are drawn from a full range of socioeconomic levels and both rural and urban areas. Uniforms were not required and students were free in selection of dress. Certain regulations regarding dress were published in the "Student Handbook" of 1967-1968; e.g., Girls shall use their own judgment in being neat in appearance at all tflme. . . . Bermudas, shorts, toreadors, pant skirts, blue jeans or slacks of any kind will not be accepted as apprOpriate attire for girls during any school day. 36 In this study there were 231 subjects of whom 121 were boys and 110 were girls. There are ten students fewer than in the study by Cluml who did the analysis of friend- ship patterns used in this study. Collection of the Data The data were collected on one day. The students gathered in a large auditorium and the questionnaire was given to each. They were allowed to use as much time as necessary to complete the questionnaire. As the students left the auditorium their pictures were taken and the ques- tionnaires were numbered in the order in which the subjects were filmed. To insure accuracy every tenth student carried a number which would be visible when film analysis was done. Analysis of Data The data obtained from the questionnaires and film analysis were coded and punched in IBM cards for computer analysis. Transformations of the raw item-scores for pres— tige clothing were performed to arrive at a prestige cloth— ing score for each individual. For Hypothesis A which tested relationship between group membership and prestige clothing, data for boys and girls were used together because one of the three groups 1Clum, "Conformity to the Modal Pattern Of Dress as Related to Friendship Patterns of Adolescent Boys and Girls." 37 composed of the most pOpular students consisted of both sexes. The isolates were so few that the data for all types of isolates as well as for both sexes were also used together. For Hypotheses B, C, and D the score for the differ- ent variables were analyzed separately for boys and girls since it was eXpected that there might be a difference in behavior of the two sexesregarding fashion or "in" clothing. Means and standard deviations for boys and girls were calcu- lated for each variable. The possible effect of social class was eliminated from influencing the relationships by using partial corre- lations as the apprOpriate statistical method. A probability of .05 or lesswas accepted as an indication that the relationship did not occur by chance. CHAPTER V RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The discussion of the results will include a descrip— tion of the research situation and subjects' background as well as relationships between prestige clothing and the different aspects of multi-dflmensional peer acceptance (acceptance in the informal school structure): group mem- bership, pOpularity, leadership, and being chosen as dating partner. Descriptive Data The sample was not a random sample and therefore does not include a representative cross section of adoles- cents with the result that generalizations to other pOpula— tions cannot be made. In order to understand the possible implications for other groups a description of the subjects' backgrounds has been included. Information of biographical nature was obtained from the questionnaire (Appendix C, page 82) . The school which included both urban and rural students had an enrollment of 1,193 for 1967-68 for grades nine through twelve with 281 students in the SOphomore 38 39 class.1 Two hundred and thirty-one SOphomores, 121 boys and 110 girls, took part in this study. Ninety-four percent of the subjects were fifteen or sixteen years of age. Six per— cent were seventeen and one girl was eighteen (Table A.l, Appendix A, page 69). Data of urban and rural students were not separated as it was assumed that differences in clothing and other behavior between urban and rural students would not be significant within one school. Ryan did find differences between well—dressed ratings of college girls from larger cities and smaller towns with the first group being rated higher both by themselves and by the group.2 The results obtained in the city where the data for this project were collected, pOpulation 6,754,3 may differ from results of similar projects in other cities or towns. The original collectors of the data noted that the subjects of the cur- rent study were dressed rather "conservatively" considering fashions and fads prevalent at the time elsewhere. Forty- four percent of the subjects lived in rural areas; 7 percent UMichigan Education Directory and Buyers Guide, 1967-68. Enary Shaw Ryan, Psychological Effects of Clothing. Part II. Comparison of College Students with High School §tudents, Rural with Urban Students, and Boys with Girls, Bulletin 898, Cornell University Agricultural Experiment Station, Ithaca, New YOrk, August 1953. 3U.S. Bureau of the Census, Census of Population: 1960 (Washington, D.C.: Department of Commerce, p. 24. 40 were from the suburban area and 49 percent from the city (Table A.2, Appendix A, page 69). We have seen in the review of literature that family social class has not determined stratification of the adoles- cent group or peer acceptance but that it does have an influ- ence. Although the possible effect of social class was partialed out in this study it may still be necessary to take economic and social position into consideration when results of different groups are compared. Ryan noted that college girls of higher economic backgrounds tended to be rated higher on the well-dressed scaletflunigirls from lower economic levels,1 and Sohn who predicted that clothing lead- ers would have higher levels of socioeconomic background than followers found a trend in the predicted direction although the relationship was not significant.2 The socioeconomic level of each subject was deter— mined by using the McGuire-White Index3 which is based on analysis of the parents' occupation, education and income. Five categories were utilized with upper level being the highest social class. 1Ryan, Ppycholpgical Effects of Clothing. Part LL. Comparison of College Students with Highp§chool Students, Rural with Urbany§tudents, and Boys with Girls, Bulletin 898. 2SOhn, "Personal-Social Characteristics of Clothing Fashion Leaders Among Fraternity'Men," p. 50. 3Carson McGuire and George D. White, "The Measurement of Social Status" (unpublished research paper in Human Devel- opment, No. 3, revised, Department of Educational Psychology, The University of Texas, 1963). 41 Table 3. Distribution of boys and girls by socioeconomic levels of their families Boys Girls Total Socioeconomic Status No. % No. % No. % Upper l 0.8 3 2.7 4 1.8 UppereMiddle 11 9.1 8 7.3 19 8.2 LowereMiddle 39 32.2 32 29.1 71 30.6 Upper-Lower 58 47.9 56 50.9 114 49.4 Lower-Lower _1g_ _2;2_ 11 10.0 _g; ._lgpg Totals 121 .99’9* 110 100.0 231 100.0 *Error due to rounding. Although there were representatives from all the socioeco- nomic classes among the subjects the majority were in the lower-middle and upper-lower levels. The median income for residents of the city was $5,681 and for county residents it was $5,091 indicating a depressed area when compared to $6,256 median income for the state as a whole.1 Analysis of data obtained from the ques- tionnaire revealed that the majority of major wage earners in subjects' families had as much as a high school education' or had completed eight grades. Seventy-five percent of the 1U.S. Bureau of the Census, Michigan General Social and Economic Characteristics: 1960 (Washington, D.C.: Department of Commerce, pp. 183, 185. 42 families fell in these categories while 21 percent had some education beyond high school. Nearly one—third of the employed males in the city had semi-skilled occupations and one-half of the employed males in the county did semi- skilled work or farming1 (Table A.3, Appendix A, page 70). The separate variables will be described briefly before the relationships between variables are discussed. Clothing Student Opinion was used to determine what clothing was prestigious. Students designated which item in every category on the questionnaire was "in" ("the newest thing going") and which one was "out" ("gave rejection to the ‘wearer"). New items were assumed to have prestige value while some items would be rejected as "old-fashioned" or "out." Since the latest fads were not included among the choices presented in the questionnaire, we are dealing with already accepted "fashion" as prestige clothing rather than items which might be accepted or rejected in the future. Analysis of student choices of "in" and "out" items revealed that the students did not always agree as to what was "in" or "out" and that the mode in a number of cate— gories received the highest percentage score as the "in" lU.S. Bureau of the Census, Michigan General Social and Economic Characteristics: 1960 (Washington, D.C.: Department of Commerce, pp. 287, 312. 43 item (see pages 30—34 for fuller eXplanation). This was especially true for boys'clothing where the mode got the highest score in five out of seven cases. This indicates that the "newest thing going" or prestige clothing for boys was not very different from the mode. We could also infer' that newer fashions to which they are not yet accustomed would not hold as much prestige value for boys as for girls. Some of the items judged to be the actual "newest thing going" by data collectors sometimes received quite a few choices as an "out" item, while the mode received only an occasional choice as "out." It has already been noted that the subjects as a group were judged to be "conservative" in dress. There was a high correlation between prestige cloth- ing score and conformity to the mode. For girls the corre- lation was 0.30 and for boys even higher, 0.81. This high correlation is an indication of limitations in the method of measurement discussed above although it might also be a confirmation of Glickman's finding that clothing leaders have to conform to the mode to some extent.1 In Table 4 the means and standard deviations of students' prestige clothing scores and conformity to the mode scores are given. The conformity to the mode scores 1Glickman, "Clothing Leadership Among Boys," p. 274. 44 I Table 4. Prestige clothing score and conformity to the mode: means and standard deviation Standard Variables Mean Deviation Range Prestige Clothing Boys 1639.26 715.42 683-2979 Girls 1182.04 298.40 156-1931 Conformity to theModea Boys ' 2331.49 687.68 591-3485 Girls 1690.06 458.76 769-2448 aSmucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls. were worked out by Smucker as part of her study.1 Table A.4 in the appendix (Appendix A, page 71) gives the frequencies of boys' prestige clothing scores and of girls' prestige clothing scores and Figures 2 and 3 are the curves drawn from these frequencies for boys and girls, respectively (Appendix B, pages 72 and 73). The high standard deviation and the skewness of the frequency curve for boys showed'that the measure for boys' prestige clothing was not fine enough to distinguish between boys with very small differences in clothing and to separate adequately the boys who are clothing leaders (wearers of prestigeous clothing) from others. This 1Smucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Cloth- ing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls." 45 phenomenon resulted from the exclusion of categories having no modal pattern of dress in the original attempt to measure conformity to the mode for the larger project. Aspects of Multi-Dimensional Peer Acceptance A score of fifteen choices as pOpular students in the class was arbitrarily accepted as cut-off point in determining the "most popular" students because it was neces- sary to distinguish between students who received choices from their own friendship groups and those who were also designated as "most pOpular" by other class members. Nine- teen students received more than fifteen choices as "most pOpular." Except for one student, all these students were members of RFS's ll, 15, and 19 and these friendship groups" were designated as leading groups although the majority of the members did not have pOpularity scores higher than fifteen. It is not known whether the "leading crowd" in Coleman's study1 were all members of specific friendship groups or whether they were an unstructured "group" where prestige or symbols of prestige were common among different friendship groups to which each belonged. In this study friendship groups containing the greatest number of pOpular students were assumed to be the "leading groups." lColeman, The Adolescent Society, p. 36. 46 Table 5 shows the mean of the prestige clothing score of all 39 members of the "leading group" containing the most popular students (RFS's 11, 15, and 19) and the mean of the prestige clothing score of the rest of the subjects as well as the different standard deviations. Table 5. Means and standard deviations of RFS's 11, 15 and 19 and the rest of the subjects Standard Prestige Clothing of: Frequency Mean Deviation RFS ll, 15, 19 39 1951.86 627.55 Other subjects 192 1793.10 598.31 Data for boys and girls were not separated because RFS 15 was composed of both boys and girls. The comparison will therefore not indicate possible differences between boys and girls. The means and standard deviations of prestige cloth- ing scores of the 29 isolates and the rest of the subjects can be seen in Table 6. In this case the data for boys and girls were also used together because the number of isolates was small and a further categorization with analysis would have been unreliable. 47 Table 6. Means and standard deviations of prestige clothing scores of isolates and the rest of the subjects Standard Prestige Clothing of: Frequency .Mean Deviation Isolates 29 1822.32 563.35 Other Students 202 1818.01 611.28 The other aspects of informal peer acceptance in this study were: popularity, leadership, and being chosen as dating partner. The means and standard deviations of these factors are compared in Table 7. Data for boys and girls were separated to allow comparison since it was expected that behavior towards newor "fashionable" clothing might be different. Table 7. Means and standard deviations for pOpularity, leadership, and dating partner scores Variables Mean Standard Deviation POpularity Boys 3.54 8.08 Girls 3.84 8.86 Leadership Boys 2.49 3.67 Girls 3.39 5.91 Dating Partner Boys 3.22 5.95 Girls 3.62 7.90 48 The pOpularity scores received by individuals varied from zero to 64. Eighty percent (187) of the subjects had a score lower than five. The 187 students included 97 boys and 90 girls. The large number of peOple receiving low scores was eXpected because Of the assumption that a number of most pOpular students would generally be recognized while the majority of students would be ignored or receive choices from close friends only or members of their friendship groups. The frequency distribution of pOpularity scores for boys is illustrated in Figure 4 (Appendix B, page 74) and the distribution for girls is shown in Figure 5 (Appendix B, page 75). Leadership scores varied from zero to 32. Ninety- six boys and 85 girls, 181 subjects, received less than five choices as leader. Measurement of leadership was limited to the Opinions of members of the SOphomore class in that the subjects were asked to name the class members whom they would choose to represent their school at a meeting for high school students. While subject Opinion as measuring instrument is often not as accurate as measurement of actual behavior there is also reason to believe that it is more valid in determining whom students regard as leaders than using an index of students who take the lead in formal school organizations. Students eager to please parents or teachers, or individuals striving for academic achievement rather than those striving for acceptance by peers may be 49 more motivated to seek these positions. The fact that Smuckerl who tested the same subjects found a highly signif— icant relationship between conformity to the clothing mode and peer acceptance in the informal or friendship structure while the relationship between conformity to the clothing mode and peer acceptance in the formal school structure or participation in formal school organization was not signif- icant may indicate that this discrepancy between informal acceptance and achievement in formal school organization did exist in this class. The number of choices that subjects received as dating partners varied from zero to 38. In this case 99 boys and 90 girls--a total of 189 students--received less than five choices. The faCt that students were restricted to choices of class members was a limiting factor. Girls especially mentioned dating boys from other schools or towns or members of senior classes. This measure did, however, give an indication Of dating magnetism of individuals within the group. Relationship Between Wearing Prestige Clothing and Friendship Groups A positive relationship was predicted between wear- ing prestige clothing (having a high prestige clothing score) lSmucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Cloth— ing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls," pp. 49—50, 52-53. 50 and belonging to one of the three friendship groups contain- ing the “most pOpular" students, RFS ll, 15 and 19. Colemanl and'Gordon2 noted that, according to student Opinion, the "leading crowd" did rely on clothing among other things to be accepted into the leading group but the researchers did not show that students actually behaved in this way and used clothing to get into the leading group. Janney's3 presti- gious groups did actually originate fads accepted by other students but her findings can not be directly extrapolated to this study in which emphasis was on the mode or generally worn items in the questionnaire. Table 8 gives the relation- ship between the friendship groups containing the "most popular" students and other students. The difference between the two means was not signif- icant. This finding indicates that members of the "leading group" containing the "most pOpular" students did not wear more prestigious clothing than the rest of the students and thus could not be clothing leaders. Differences between boys and girls are not shown because their data were not separated. 1Coleman, The Adolescent Society, p. 36. 2Gordon, The Social System of the High §chool, p. 117. 3Janney, "Fad and Fashion Leadership Among Under- graduate Women," pp. 275-278. 51 Table 8. The significance of the variation from the mean of prestige clothing score for friendship groups and isolates Prestige Clothing -of the Rest of Degrees of the Students and: Freedom F Statistic Significance Friendship groups 1 2.15 0.14 (N.S.) Isolates 1 0.001 0.97 (N.S.) An analysis of variance testing for relationships between the three groups (RFS ll, 15, 19) revealed a multiple correlation coefficient of 0.81. This indicates a high correlation between prestige clothing scores of the three groups and we can assume that the groups did not differ significantly as far as the wearing of prestige clothing was concerned and none of the groups could be considered clothing leaders on the basis of the findings. Hypothesis A (2) stated that Isolates were not expected to be wearing prestige clothing or that they would have low prestige clothing score. Table 8 gives the differ- ence between means for Isolates and the rest of the students. The difference was not significant and it can there- fore not be accepted that Isolates wear "out" clothing or ‘ have a significantly lower prestige clothing score than other class members. 52 Relationship Between Wearing Prestige Clothing and POpularity Hypothesis B predicted that there would be a rela- tionship between being pOpular and wearing prestige clothing (having a high prestige clothing score). Data for boys and girls were separated and the different relationships are shown in Table 9. Table 9. Relationship of prestige clothing to popularity, leadership and dating magnetism Variables Prestige Clothing .£ Popularity Boys . . . . . . . . . . . 0.09 Girls 0 o o o o o o o o o o O. 19* Leadership Boys 0 O O O 0 O O O O O O 0021* Girls . . . . . . . . . . . 0.22* Dating Power Boys . . . . . . . . . . . 0.13 Girls . . . . . . . . . . . 0.12 *Significant at .05 level. From the results shown in Table 9 we can possibly judge that prestigious clothing was important for the popular girls but not for the pOpular boys. Cannon, Staples and 53 Carlsonl who found that perSOnal appearance bore a signif— icant relationship to social acceptance during the junior and high school period, remarked that: Whether a good personal appearance contributes to self assurance with resulting social accept- ability or whether a strong social interest carries with it a desire to adOpt a standard of dress and grooming which meets the group approval, we cannot say. The results in this study did indicate some relationship between popularity and wearing prestige clothing or "in" clothing for girls but it is impossible to say what factors play a role as far as cause and effect is concerned. Relationship Between Wearing Prestige Clothing and Leadership In the studies of clothing leadership done by Sohn2 and Glickman the relationship between clothing leadership and leadership in other areas was the only significant relationship. Janney found that cliques containing clothing leaders were leaders in other areas as well as in adOption of fads.4 As indicated in Table 9 a relationship between leadership and wearing prestige clothing was significant for 1Cannon, Staples and Carlson, "Personal Appearance as a Factor in Social Acceptance," p. 713. 2Sohn, "Personal—SOCial Characteristics of Clothing Leaders Among Fraternity'Men," p. 49. 3Glickman, "Clothing Leadership Among Boys," p. 274. 4Janney, "Fad and Fashion Leadership Among Under- graduate Women," pp. 275-278. 54 boys as well as for girls in this study. We can therefore accept the prOposition that clothing leaders were leaders 'in other areas of group activities as well. - Relationship Between Wearing Prestige Clothing and Being Chosen as Dating Partner Hypothesis D consisted of a prediction that there would be a positive relationship between wearing prestige clothing and being chosen as dating partner. Neither the correlation coefficient for boys (0.13) nor for girls (0.12) was significant at the .05 level (see Table 9). Janney found that the girls who originated fads were also pOpular as dating partners.1 This finding was the only evidence that leadership in clothing was significantly related to these two factors. CHAPTER VI SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS Summary This study grew out of a larger interregional project1 which was designed to eXplore the relationship of social class, social participation, social acceptance and conformity to and awareness Of clothing norms. The major concern of the present study was to determine what clothing was considered to be "fashiOnable" or prestigious by the subjects to whom the questionnaire was administered and to investigate the relationship between wearing prestigious clothing and acceptance by peers as being popular, a leader, a desirable dating partner and a member of a friendship group. A review of the literature pertinent to the problem revealed that little research haslbeen done regarding lead- ership in the area of clothing and acceptance of fads and fashion by adolescents and}no study with high school stu- dents as subjects could be found. Although references to clothing as a symbol of prestige or status were encountered 1Interregional project W-98, "The Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Acceptability of Adolescents." 55 56 in studies dealing with motivation in clothing and confor— mity to the clothing mode this study is to a large extent exploratory in the measurement of what adolescents regard as "fashionable for the group" (or prestige clothing) and in making predictions about relationships between clothing leadership and different aspects of peer acceptance. The pOpulation consisted of the SOphomore class of a midwestern high school and questionnaires were adminis- tered to 121 boys and 110 girls. The questionnaire was designed to obtain data about social class and other demo- graphic factors, social participation in the formal school organizations, informal acceptance by the peers, awareness of clothing norms, and Opinion designations as to which items were considered to be prestigeful in clothing. The techniques used for data collection included the questionnaire and 16 millimeter colored motion pictures. The film showed the back and front of the dress of each subject in motion and was taken on the day the questionnaire was administered. The film was used to determine the items in every dress category that each student was wearing and from these a prestige clothing score was determined based on all the students' choices of "in" ("the newest thing going") and "out" ("completely out of it") items. Sociograms constructed by Clum1 and based on choices of best friends within the 1Clum, "Conformity to the Modal Pattern of Dress as Related to Friendship Patterns of Adolescent Boys and Girls." 57 class were used to identify a "leading group" and isolates. The friendship groups of the students who were chosen as "most popular in your grade" were located. All the pOpular students except one were found to be members of one of the three friendship groups, RFS ll, 15 and 19. These groups were considered to be a "most pOpular" or "leading group." In the questionnaire subjects were asked to name class members whom they considered as most pOpular, or leader, or a desirable dating partner. The choices of members of the class then served to determine the pOpularity, leadership and dating scores for each individual. The data for boys and girls were not separated by sex when relationships between average prestige clothing score of all members of the three friendship groups contain- ing most pOpular students, or isolates, and the rest of the class were determined because RFS 15 contained both boys and girls and the isolate group was small. When relationships between prestige clothing and pOpularity, leadership and dating choices were determined separate analyses were con- ducted for boys and girls because differences in behavior toward accepted "fashion" or prestige clothing were eXpected to appear. F-tests were used to determine the significance of the difference between means of prestige clothing score of the three friendship groups containing the "most pOpular" students and prestige clothing score of the rest of the students. The same statistic was used to determine whether 58 there was a difference between means of prestige clothing score of isolates and other subjects. The effect of social class was eliminated by using partial correlations in deter- mining the relationships between wearing prestige clothing and pOpularity, leadership, or being chosen as dating partner. Means and standard deviations of the scores were determined for all the variables: prestige clothing, pOpularity, leadership, and choices as dating partner. A summary of the prOpOsed hypotheses and the results are given below. The hypotheses contain predictions about possible relationships between different aspects of informal peer acceptance and prestige clothing. They are therefore dealing with relationships between clothing behavior and adolescent peer group behavior. 1 A. There will be a relationship between wearing prestige clothing and belonging to friendship groups. 1. There will be a positive relationship between wearing prestige clothing and belonging to one of the three friendship groups containing the most pOpular students. The difference between means for prestige clothing scores of the three friendship groups containing the "most pOpular" students and the rest of the subjects was not sig- nificant. This result does not give us reason to believe that members of friendship groups chosen as "most pOpular" or "leading group" wear prestige clothing (or accepted "fashion") more than the other class members or that they can be regarded as clothing leaders. 59 2. There will be a positive relationship between having a low prestige clothing score and being an isolate. No significant difference between the mean of the prestige clothing score for isolates and the mean of the prestige clothing score for other class members was found. We cannot assume therefore that isolates will not wear as many prestige items of clothing as other class members. Hypothesis A was therefore rejected as far as a positive relationship between being a member of RFS ll, 15 and 19 and wearing prestige clothing is concerned as well as the negative relationship that was expected to exist between wearing prestige clothing and being an isolate. B. There will be a positive relationship between wearing prestige clothing and being popular. The correlation coefficient measuring the relation- ship between prestige Clothing score and pOpularity score was not significant for boys but the coefficient for girls was significant at the .05 level of confidence. This may mean that pOpular girls wear prestigious clothing but it is not known whether wearing prestigious clothing helps to make a girl popular or whether popular girls transmit to clothing their own prestige. Hypothesis B can therefore be accepted for girls but must be rejected for boys. 60 C. There will be a positive relationship between wearing prestige clothing and being chosen as leader. A significant relationship was found to exist between prestige clothing score and being chosen as leader for both boys and girls. Both of these correlation coefficients were significant at the .05 level of confidence. These findings indicate that the students who wear prestige clothing (and may be considered clothing leaders) are also chosen as leaders by the members of their group. These findings indicate that Hypothesis C can be accepted for both boys and girls. D. There will be a positive relationship between wearing prestige clothing and being chosen as dating partner. The relationship between wearing prestige clothing and being chosen as dating partner was not found to be significant for either boys or girls. Hypothesis D was therefore not confirmed. In summary the only relationships that were con- firmed were the relationships between prestige clothing scores and leadership for both boys and girls and the rela- tionship between prestige clothing score and popularity for girls. Implications of the Findings Home economics teachers attempt to help high school students to make clothing decisions and to "choose wisely," yet very little empirical information about their deeper 61 I needs is available. Often it is just assumed that clothing that is flattering to the individual's figure type and serviceable should be acceptable to the adolescent. It has been shown that conformity to the peer mode is important for the adolescent and concern about his needs to conform to peer standards regardless of becomingness has lately been ’ eXpressed. Little research has been done, however, about the acceptance of fashions and fads and the rejection of items that are "out of fashion" in spite of the fact that it is acknowledged that adolescents easily adOpt fads, some of which are disapproved of by adults. Our knowledge about the adOption of new fashions or fads and the rejection of old ones among adolescents is so meagre that we have to start by studying actual behavior. Besides establishing a pattern of dress accepted as "in" we have to find out who wears this clothing. Do the pOpular students, or the leaders, or students pOpular as dating partners wear prestige Or "in" clothing? Can we identify members of an "in group" who are also clothing leaders or wearers of prestige or "in" clothing? The results of this study indicated that both the boys and the girls who were chosen as leaders wore prestige clothing while there was also a significant relationship between pOpularity and wearing prestige clothing for girls but not for boys.(:Although no cause and effect relation- ships havevbeen established knowing that clothing leaders 62 are those students who are also chosen as leaders in other areas by the class may be helpful for teachers. These are the students whose clothing will be the example that others follow.: If generalizations could be made to other pOpula- tions this finding might mean thatheachers could use leadership in other areas as a predictor for leadership in clothing and leaders could be studied when clothing motiva- tion of the group must be investigated. Another important fact that has become clear in this study is that a finer measure of prestige clothing or accepted "fashion" must be devised. In order to measure the "new thing" categories of items must contain information about new items rather than being limited to clear modal frequencies. In the larger project from which this study was develOped dress categories with two or more equally pOpular items within the category as well as those categories where one item was worn by 90 percent or more of the subjects were not included. These excluded categories might contain "in" items. For boys' clothing especially the measure did not make a clear enough distinction between wearers of prestigious clothing and others. The many problems encountered in a study dealing with adolescent peer group "fashion" are indications of how little we actually know about the adolescent's adOption of fashion and fad although we know that fads are frequently adOpted. 63 Recommendations for Further Study One of the problems in dealing with "in" or "fashion— able" clothing is to find out which items are considered "fashionable" or prestigious by the group. The analysis of the questionnaires showed that students did not agree about the item that was prestigious ("in") in every category. An attempt was made to use the Opinion of students with a high score for awareness Of the mode to designate which item was "in" or "out" in every category. Their Opinions were even less reliable than the Opinion of the total group possibly because they had a high score for "awareness of the dress mode" and not of prestigious or "in" clothing. A better indication might be found if students were asked to name members of the group whom they considered clothing leaders-- their Opinion might give a better indication of what is prestigious or "fashionable" for the group. Besides looking at items of clothing being worn, general appearance should also be considered for a complete picture because the total appearance may give a clearer picture of how "fashionable" a subject is dressed than analysis of different items. BIBLIOGRAPHY BIBLIOGRAPHY Books / \/ 0 man, James S. The Adolescent Society. New York: The Free Press of Glencoe, 1961. M/Gordon, C. Wayne. The Social System of the High School Illinois: The Free Press of Glencoe, 1957. Horrocks, John E. The Psychology of Adolescence. New York: The MacMillan Company, 1962. Hurlock, Elizabeth B. DevelOpmental Psychology. 2nd ed. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Co., 1962. Jersild, Arthur T. The Psychology of Adolescence. New York: The MacMillan Company, 1962. Kuhlen, Raymond G. The Psychology of Adolescent DevelOpment. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1952. Newcomb, Theodore M. Social Psychology. New York: The Dryden Press, 1950. Roach, Mary Ellen, and Eicher, Joanne Bubolz. Dress, Adornment and the Social Order. New York, London, Sydney: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965. Ryan, Mary Shaw. Clothing: A Study in Human Behavior. New York, Chicago, San Francisco, Toronto, London: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1966. Sherif, Musafer, and Sherif, Carolyn W. Groups in Harmony and Tension: An Integration of Studies on Intergroup Relations. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1953. .béner, Athur M., and Hoffer, Charles R. "Adolescent Orientation to Clothing," in Dress, Adornment and the Social Order. Edited by M. E. Roach and J. B. Eicher. New York, London, Sydney: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965, pp. 76-81. 64 '65 Wax, Murray. "Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming," in Dress, Adornment and the Social Order. Ed. by M. E. Roach and J. B. Eicher. New York, London, Sydney: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965, pp. 44-52. Articles Anastasi, Anne, and Miller, Shirley. "Adolescent Prestige Factors in Relation to Scholastic and Socio-Economic Variables," Journal ofy§ocial Psychology, XXIX (February 1949), 43-50. Angelino, Henry, Barnes, Lenorah A., and Shedd, Charles. "Attitudes of Mothers and Adolescent Daughters Concerning Clothing and Grooming," Journal of Home Economics, XLVIII (December 1956), 779-782. Barr, Estelle DeYoung. "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Motivation," Archives of Psychology, XXVI:171 (1934), 5-99. Bowerman, Charles E., and Kinch, John W. "Changes in Family and Peer Orientation of Children Between the Fourth and Tenth Grades," Social Forces, XXXVII (October 19584May 1959), 206-211. Cannon, Kenneth L., Staples, Ruth, and Carlson, Irene. "Personal Appearance as a Factor in Social Acceptance," Journal of Home Economics, XLIV (October 1952), (1 710-713 . obliner, W. Godfrey. "Feminine Fashion as an ASpect of Group Psychology: Analysis of Written Replies Received by Means of Questionnaire," Journal of Social Psycholggy, XXXI (1950), 283-289. Douty, Helen I. "Influence of Clothing on Perception of Persons," Journal of Home Economics, LV:3 (March 1963), 197-202. Evans, S. Evelyn. "Motivations Underlying Clothing Selection and Wearing," Journal of Home Economics, LVI (December 1964), 739-743. Form, W. R., and Stone, G. "Urbanism, Anonimity, and Status Symbolism," American Journal ofygpciology, LVII (1957), 66 Horn, Marilyn J. “A Method for Determining Normative Patterns of Dress," Proceedings of the National Textiles and Clothing Meeting, Minneapolis, Minnesota, June l9-22, 1968, pp. 49-55. Hoult, Thomas Ford. "EXperimental Measurement of Clothing as a Factor in Some Social Ratings of Selected American Men," Americanygociological Review, XIX, (June 1954), 324—328. Hurlock, Elizabeth B. "Motivation in Fashion," Archives of Psychology, XVII:1ll (1929), 55-70. \JZnne y , J. E. "Fad and Fashion Leadership Among Undergrad- uate Women," Journal of Abnormal and Social Psychology, XXXVI (1941), 275-278. Jacobi, John E., and Walters, S. George. "Social Status and Consumer Choice," Social Forces, XXXVI (October 1957- May 1958), 209-214. Kuhlen, Raymond G., and Lee, Beatrice J. "Personality Characteristics and Social Acceptability in Adolescence," Journal of Educational Psychology, XXXIV (September 1943), 321-340. Rosencranz, Mary Lou. "Clothing Symbolism," Journal of Home Economics, LIV (January 1962), 18-22. Takahashi, Charlene L., and Newton, Audrey. "Perceptions of Clothing Conformity," Journal of Home Economics, LIX: 9 (November 1967), 720-723. Warden, Jessie. "Some Desires or Goals.for Clothing of College Women," Journal of Home Economics, XLIX (December 1957), 795-796. Other Sources Bjorngaard, Arlene Louise. "The Relationship of Social Class and Social Acceptance to Clothing and Appearance of a Selected Group Of Ninth Grade Girls." Unpub- lished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1962. Clum, Terry Lee. "Conformity to the Model Pattern of Dress as Related to Friendship Patterns of Adolescent Boys and Girls." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1969. -Imfl 67 Creekmore, Anna M. "Clothing Behaviors and Their Relations to General Values and to the Striving for Basic Needs." Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1963. \glickman, Albert Seymour. "Clothing Leadership Among Boys." Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis, Ohio State University, 1952. Hundley, Winifred Sue. “The Relationship of Clothing to Social Class, High School Position and Status Inconsistency." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1967. "7 Interregional Project W-98. "The Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Acceptability of Adolescents.” Interregional research currently in progress at Colorado State University, University of Hawaii, University of Nevada, Michigan State University, University of Minnesota, University of Missouri, Utah State University, Washington State University, and University of Wisconsin. Michigan State Univer- sity Study under the direction of Anna M. Creekmore, Agricultural EXperiment Station Project 1020. W “J 3-‘-_ * Littrell, Mary Bishop. "Reference Groups and Isolates: A Study of Clothing and Appearance Opinions." Unpub— lished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1968. Michigan Education Directory and Buyers Guide, 1967-68. Ryan, Mary Shaw. Psychological Effects of Clothingyg Part II. Comparison of College Students with High School Students, Rural with Urban Students, and Boys with Girls. Bulletin 898, Cornell University Agricul- tural EXperiment Station, Ithaca, New York, August 1953. Silverman, Sylvia S. "Clothing and Appearance, Their Psychological Implications for Teen Age Girls." New York: Bureau of Publications, Teacher's College, Columbia University, 1945. Smucker, Betty Voran. "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing.Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1969. Sohn, Marjorie Ann. "Personal-Social Characteristics of Clothing Fashion Leaders Among Fraternity Men." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1959. 68 U.S. Bureau of the Census. Census of the POpulation: 1960. Washington, D.C.: Department of Commerce. U.S. Bureau of the Census. Michigan General Social and Economic Characteristics, 1960. Washington, D.C.: Department of Commerce. Williams, Madelyn Claire. “Opinions on Clothing, Appearance and Social Acceptance as Factors in Group Cohesion of Ninth Grade Girls." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1963. Wass, Betty Marguerite. "Clothing as Related to Role Behavior of Ninth Grade Girls." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, 1962. Young, Mary Jane. "The Relationship of Clothing to Peer Acceptance and to Personal Appearance of Adolescents." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State Univer- sity, 1967. APPENDIX A TABLES OF BIOGRAPHICAL DATA AND FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION is .- ”12.-m . mi? q .. 69 Table A.l. Numerical and percentage distribution of subjects according to age Boys Girls Total Age No. % No. % No. %. 15 43 35 62 56 105 46 16 67 55 44 40 111 48 17 ll 10 3 3 l4 6 18 __o_ _2 _1 _1 __1. _9. Total 121 100 110 100 231 100 Table A.2. Numerical and percentage distribution of subjects according to area of residence Boys Girls Total Area of Residence No. % NO. % No. % Town 53 44 60 54 113 49 Suburb 14 12 3 ' 3 17 7 Rural 14. _4_5 _41 g 1_01_ _42 Total 121 101* 110 100 231 100 *Error due to rounding. 70 Table A.3. Numerical and percentage distribution of subjects according to education of main wage earner of the family Boys' Girls' Families Families Total Education of Main Wage Earner No. % NO. % No. % Graduate School 3 3 4 4 7 3 College Graduate 8 7 6 5 l4 6 Some Education Beyond High School 15 12 20 18 35 15 High School Graduate 49 41 35 32 84 36 Attended High School 28 23 29 26 57 25 Completed-Eighth Grade 16 13 14 13 30 13 Attended Elemen- tary School 2 2 2 2 4 2 Total 121 101* 110 100 231 100 *Error due to rounding. 71 Table A.4. Frequency distributions of prestige clothing scores for boys and girls (interval--100) f ‘— Boys Girls Intervals No. Intervals No. 651-750 1 151-250 1 751-850 1 251-350 0 851-950 1 351-450 1 951-1050 1 451-550 0 1051-1150 2 551-650 2 1151-1250 0 651-750 0 1251-1350 0 751—850 2 1351-1450 2 851-950 3 1451-1550 4 951-1050 7 1551-1650 3 1051-1150 9 1651—1750 7 1151-1250 8 1751-1850 6 1251-1350 11 1851-1950 11 1351-1450 14 1951-2050 4 1451—1550 13 2051-2150 6 1551—1650 17 2151-2250 4 1651-1750 8 2251—2350 12 1751-1850 8 2351-2450 10 1851-1950 6 2451-2550 9 2551—2650 5 2651-2750 13 2751-2850 13 2851—2950 5 2951-3050 [—4 APPENDIX B FIGURES OF FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTIONS 72 .mmon MOM mwuoom meanuoHo mmwummum mo omvm omom omom mmuoom omNN coflusnfluumflo wocmsvoum ommH omwa omoa .N musmam = OH ON 0m 0% Kouanbaza 73 .manflm How mmuoom madnuoHU mmaummum mo GOHuOQAHuwHU mocwsqmum .m wusmflm monoom ommm omma omoa omma omoa 0mm 0mg 0 4‘ 4 q d _ q a i 1 OH 1 ON 1 0m Kauanbexa 74 .mmon Hem mmHOOm muwnmaomom mo Godusnanumflc wocmsvmum .w musmam mmuoom mm mm mg mm mm ma m o nu.“ lflwil 11‘ 8 Ir 1 q 1 L om om om ONH Kauanbaxa 75 .manam How mwuoom muaumasmom mo coflusnanumflp hocmsqmnm monoom .m musmam Hg on mm o H ¢ Jul u-‘N m H 1 L mm 0 Ln mm OOH Kouenbaxa 76 .mmon Hem mwuoom mflnmuocmma mo codusnauumflp mocmsqmnm .o musmfim mmuoom ha va Ha w m N o F _ q _ q 4 1 on 1 ow 1 om 1 om Kauanbaxg 77 1.311 . 1 .mauam How mouoom mazmumcmma mo codusnauumH©1mococqmum .5 muomHm m ”Houm mm Om mm ON ma OH m 0 P H1 0 fl 1 a « LON 10¢ 100 low Kouenbexa 78 .mmoe “Om mouoom mofloco mcaump mo cofluonanumwc mocooqonm .m mwsmwm mmHOUW mm em ma ma m e o _ fl 4 d J a fill ‘11 .Imm 10m 1mm k LOOH Kauanbaxa 79 .mauam How mwuoom monono mcwumc mo cOauanHumao mocwsqmum mm mm 1%, mmHOUm NH .m musmflm 1 ON Kouenbaxg APPENDIX C QUESTIONNAIRE 80 Dear Students: We would like your help in our survey about teenagers and their clothing. It is only with the help of you students that our study can be of value. At the beginning of each section you will find directions for the correct procedure to follow in that section. We would very much appreciate your cooperation in completely filling out the following questionnaire to the best of your knowledge. Thank you. Name Age Male Female Check where you live: In Town Suburb Rural Area 1r ~— -: 81 Below is a list of the organizations in your school. Check Do Not Nrite “your position in those to which you belong. 'In This Column ected Officer (other than president) Write name of position Name of Organization Committee Chairman of Committee President Memb e 1' So omore Class Art Club . A io-Visua Girls Athletic Association uture Nurses Future Teachers Pen ls C u . Science C u 0. French Club Future Business of America 9 C u Annua ta . Ba . C oir . Cheerleaders . Fu ure Farmers u ure omemacers . S l ht Staff t ent Counc are t 00 . Jr. Vars Foot . Varsi Basket 11 . Jr. Varsi Basket Baseball . Cross Coun Golf . G‘ nastics . Tennis . Track ..irest Other 82 Please indicate the main wage earner in your family. father mother other (please Specify) (example: stepfather, uncle, brother) Please indicate the source of income for the major wage earner in your family. a) wages, hourly wages (weekly paycheck) b) profits and fees from a business or profession c) salary paid on a monthly basis d) social security or unemployment insurance e) odd jobs, irregular work, seasonal work f) if other, please eXplain Please eXplain in detail what the main wage earner does at work. Please eXplain Specifically type 9: work. Examples: salesman in a clothing store, waiter, manages 20 other workers in an office, works on the assembly-line, owns and manages a small store with 6 employees. Does any other person contribute to the financial support of your family? yes no If yes, please explain who (mother, brother, uncle). Please eXplain in detail the type of work done by this person. DO Not Write in This Column. 83 Please indicate the source of income for the second person who contributes to your family's financial support. a) wages, hourly wages (weekly paycheck) b) profits and fees from a business or profession c) salary paid on a monthly basis d) social security or unemployment insurance e) odd jobs, irregular work, seasonal work f) if other, please eXplain lllll Please indicate highggt level of education achieved by each of the following: father mother main wage earner (if other than mother or father) finished 7th grade or lower finished 8th grade finished 9th grade finished 10th or 11th grade graduated from high school 1 to 3 years of college college graduate graduate school after college don’t know H- 5‘00 H: (D Q o 0‘ 93 vvvvvvvvv ' H f the main wage earner is a college graduate, what the highest degree he holds? (.1 U) Do Not Write In This Column Ii: '1 Li .‘ U 84 List the full names of tenth ggade students that best fit each of the following: 1. Which students in your grade are your best friends (the ones you feel closest to)? 2. Who do you think are the most popular students in your grade? 3. Give the names of the students in your grade that you would most like to date. 4. List the names of students in your grade whom you would like to represent your high school at a national meeting of high school students. 5. If all the students in your grade were asked to help on a class project which of the students would you like to work with? 85 You will find all the tenth grade students' names listed below. We would like you to show the degree of closeness you would most prefer with each by circling the proper number beside their name. Classify each student according to the categories listed below. Notice that each situation represents a different degree of "closeness? Please be sure to circle one number by every name. Beside each student's name circle one number which is closest to how you feel: 0 if you don't know this person very well 1 if you would be in the same class with this person 3 if you would enjoy eating lunch with this person 4 if you would choose this student to be a close friend Students' Names Circle Students' Names Circle Number here Number here 0 l 1 U 1. P .- mlmmn _-n “5.. 1 86 I. You will find,on the following pages, pictures of both boys and girls items of clothing. The pictured items are divided into categories’according to style and ways of wearing them. Circle 93.3 item in each category which you think is most commonly worn by the majority of boys or girls in your class. A. Girls Shirt Length (“1 ‘17 l 1 *1 l—erwvrs-r 21¢) R) t) 1. I , 1 \( )1 ( )1 1’ \‘1 R . A31 \/ 1. 2. a. 5. 6. , About 6" 1 About 4" ~1About 1“ - 2" At Knee Cap Just Below 2" Below Above Knee Above Knee Above Knee Knee Knee E, Girls Leg Covering ‘5 \. . ,' I A . "F’g " " a '3‘ \ .‘7' a ’_ . . fit a ”J: ‘ 1.1. ‘ ’1, 35 a ’ ,n L - . ' 1 . . _. s . ', .- l’. ’ A if ’ I, ‘1‘»; _r _ flaw-F' a. . 1 "“3)’ ;I 1:» ‘ I 1"1‘1 J". 91-: 11.1, 1 COlOI‘Gd Fish Net Colored xtured Knit Hosiery Hosiery Hosiery Bobby Socks No or Anklets Cover Blouse Jumper & & Sweater Skirt,'Blouse 51m: 61 (Blouse ater Skirt & Shell or Swe Short Shi with 89 E. Girls Fabric Design of Dresses or Skirts 1. Solid c0101. 2. Small Print o ' U 1‘ 0 y D O 0 . \‘¢{(:: ° 0 o «o Cm 6. O o O 0 :55 fi’fi’v/ O 9 O O 5. Psychedelic Print 6. Polka Dot ._-.-__.—1 . I I ‘ 7. 3:11:11 Stripe 8. Medium Stripe 1:11"? "1111:31111136;111111131111? 'Ilmlifl E 5 E §I§II IL. == WWWmliililill‘fimfiuu-fi"1M“: -Iehele ale - 12111131111 .mn;..,u111:11n.~7m31. Isle. e = . L l! f" v"; sue-ele.elg‘s _ ~mEmwM;MgWE %-§%?-§.§I&I ‘-‘ 10. Plaid 11. Small Stripe Plaid 12. 61:1ng .Check 90 F. Girls Shoes 7"” .fi/ ‘# 1. Penny Loafer 2. Plain Loafer 3. Tassel Loafer 4.Buckle Loafer 5. High Top (Tie or Buckle) 6. Moccasin 8. “M 10. Plain Flats 11. Flats with Open Work 12. Sandal o/W" Ll,” / A»; WW / g ~d 13. Patent Block Heels 14. Stack Heels (Pump or Sling Back) (Pump or T-Strap) G. Boys Trousers Len th 1 l 1 Long with 1+. 2" ”above 5. 1+" above Wrinkle 2. pr of Shoe 3. Ankle Ankle 8.. Boys Trousers - “Lit J \u——. M I” - _H “M— 1 1LL/ \ 1 1. Very Tight 2.?13111: 3. Medium 11. Loose 5- Baggy I. Boys Trousers M J. Boys Trousers TIE 1.Jeans 2. Causal Slacks 3. Dress Slacks 1N0 Cliff K.Boys Shirt collars 1. Button-down Collar A (to W‘s 92 Cbnve rtible Cellar Turtle Neck Jersgy or Sweatshirt bllar /% ;\ 2 2. 3. ° 4 Cbllarless Khit Shirt Plain Cbllar 7. Mock Turtle Neck 0 —0 ..—-——G- I.-“ [2. "‘ ".bV‘ .0- --— I- ..L—2_--—v 7 V r "'"L — . 1rw.1um1 "” 1-flm- 1 1slid Collar Small Stripe Plaid Large Print Small Print Hirizontal Stripeo M. -Boys Shim T2125 IN or OUT 0 o 1. 2. 4. 5. Dress Shirt Dress Shirt Pullover Jsc Shirt IN OUT IN 001' N'. Boys Shirt 99122.! 1. Black 6. Gold 11. Purple 2. Light Blue 7. Green 12. Red 3. Dark Blue 8. Olivefireen 13. Thu a. Brown 9- Grey’ 11. ‘Hhite 5. Cranberry 10° 01"“899 15. Yellow 0. Boys Shoes 8: Socks Slip On With Buckle 2. Slip On 5. High TOp Loafer 6. Moccasin 11. Tie Oxford 12. Wing Tip '9. Low Sided, White 10. Open Weave Fabric High Cut, Pointed 11!. Desert Boot TolDress Shoe Sport Tennis ' K mun 1. White Socks 2. Dark Socks 3. Patterned Socks 1%. Light Socks 5. No Socks (black, Grey, brown, (tan, gold, rust, dark blue 8: green) cranberry, light green) h .1. Now go'back over the pictures and write up by any one of the items in each category which you think is the "newest thing going“. Write ”001‘” by the items which are completely ”out of it". If none of the pictures in a category represents what you think is the "IN" or '00!“ its: show how your idea is different by marking over the pictured item most nearly like it. HICHIGRN STQTE UNIV. LIBRRRIES lllll illl III“ II II llfllltllllll I II! 9 49 80 312 310199