A CRITICAL mvesncmou OF
TAILORING TECHNIQUES WHICH _-
MEGHT BE EFFECTWELY EMPLOYED
BY THE HOME SEWER
Thesis for the 009m of M. A.
mCHIGAN STA-Ta- COLLEGE
Mary Ellen Carbon
1953
15" This is to certify that the
a * ' thesis entitled
A Critical investigation of Tailoring
Techniques Which Might be Effectively Employed
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Mary Ellen Carlson
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November 17 , 1953
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A CRITICAL INVESTIGATION OF TAILORING TECHNIQUES
WHICH MIGHT BE EFFECTIVELY EMPLOYED
BY THE HOME SEWER
BY
Mary Ellen gailson
A THESIS
Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan
State College of Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of
MASTER OF ARTS
Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts
1953
THESiS
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
To Miss Evelyn A. Mansfield for her inspiration, and
guidance; to Miss Hazel Strahan.for her interest and
encouragement; to Miss Mary Shipley for her assistance
in taking photographs; to the fourteen members of the
rating panel for their time and interest; and to Mr. Joseph
naurer, who donated his dry cleaning services, the author
wishes to express her sincere thanks and gratitude.
3, .7300
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Preliminary Investigation . . . . . . .
Construction Methods Used . . . . . . .
FINDINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Analysis of Construction Procedures . .
Interpretation of Ratings . . . . . .
Resistance to Dry Cleaning and Pressing
CONCLUSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Custom Method . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Short-cut Method . . . . . . . . . . .
Suggestions for Further Study . . . . .
BIBLIOGRAPHY . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
APPENDIX I: Pattern Alteration . . . . .
APPENDIX II: Fabric Samples . . . . . .
APPENDIX III: Rating Sheets . . . . . .
GLOSSARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10
56
56
82
119
130
132
136
142
144
145
154
157
163
( [I'll-I‘ll"
fill! lltltl. It‘ll! ll...
LIST OF PLATES AND TABLES
Plate Page
1. Jacket Inside Construction . . . . . . . . . 15
3. Jacket
1.
2. Jacket 2, Inside Construction . . . . . . . . . 15
5, Inside Construction . . . . . . . . . l7
4
4. Jacket , Inside Construction . . . . . . . . . l7
5. Jacket 5a, Inside Construction . . . . . . . . l9
6. Jacket 5b, Inside Construction . . . . . . . . 19
7. Jacket 3, Interfacing Details . . . . . . . . . 22
8. Jackets 3 and 4, Lapel Detail . . . . . . . . . 22
9. Ratings: Fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
10. Ratings: Construction Details . . . . . . . . 89
11. Jacket 1, Side View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
12. Jackets 1 and 2, Front View . . . . . . . . . . 95
13. Jacket 2, Side View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
14. Jacket 4, Side View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
15. Jackets 4 and 5, Front View . . . . . . . . . . 94
16. Jacket 3, Side View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
17. Jacket 5a, Side View . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
18. Jacket 5, Front View . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
19. Jacket 5b, Side View . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
20. Alterations on Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
21. Alterations on Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
22. Alterations on Sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Table
I. Ratings : Fit 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O 0 O C 85
II. Ratings: Construction Details 88
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INTRODUCTION
The making of a tailored garment (suit or coat) is
generally regarded as a sewing problem requiring more
skill than any other type of construction if the results
are to look professional.
A.fine customsmade suit is the product of a tailor's
training and skill. There is precision in the fitting 1
and shaping of such a garment which enables it to give
many years of wear and satisfaction. The tailor, who is
a skilled craftsman, has learned and developed his techniques
over a long period of apprenticeship and practice. The
person who sews at home may, with.much patience and skillful
handling. employ customstailoring techniques to make her
own carefully-tailored suit. Such a suit, well-executed,
should fit becomingly and retain its original appearance
through wear and cleaning.
Directions for making a suit or coat are readily
available. Textbooks on the subject, bulletins from
various agencies. and pattern directions give detailed
instructions. There is, however, a great deal of variation
in the methods described. Some are the time-honored custom
techniques; others are newer short-cut systems. The latter
have been deveIOped for uSe by those women who do not have
the time or skill to use custom methods successfully.
The woman who sews at home must choose the method
which she feels will be best --- or easiest --- for her
to use, according to the results she wishes to achieve,
the time she can give and her skill. The home economist
who teaches tailoring, whether to college students, to
extension groups, or others, must select the method most
apprOpriate for those she will teach. She should be
familiar with the advantages and disadvantages of the
various methods. Therefore, she will wish to know how
suits made by different methods compare in appearance,
including fit, and how well these suits maintain their
original appearance through dry cleaning and pressing.
The purpose of this study was to examine the different
methods by which a suit can be constructed. In doing so,
it was hoped that suggestions might be made for the
simplification of custom-tailoring techniques. Also,
comparisons were sought which might be useful to the
home economist teaching tailoring. It was not expected
that any gpg method, satisfactory for all purposes, would
be found; but rather that the results of the study might
indicate when one method should be chosen rather than
another for a given situation.
Since it was desirable to try out as many different
procedures as possible, directions for five methods of
5
tailoring were set up. Either a left or right side of a
full-size Jacket was made by each method (with the exception
noted below). A preliminary survey of directions for the
construction of tailored suits indicated that there were
three different and rather well-defined methods, plus others
which varied in certain details. It was felt that it would
be worthwhile also to include certain factory techniques
which could be used to advantage by the home sewer. Thus
the five methods decided upon are as follows:
1. A composite of directions given in pattern
instruction,sheets.
2. A tailoring method developed by Edna Bryte
Bishop.
5. A.custom method, as taught at Michigan State
College.
4. A.“miscellaneous” method, made up of directions
(from various sources) which differed from
those of the above three methods.
5. A.composite of factory techniques not demon-
strated by the above four methods.
One complete jacket was made by the last method with a
variation in the handling of the front interfacing on
one half.
Thus three complete Jackets were made, using five
different methods. The Jackets were constructed to fit
the author, so that they might later be modeled for Judging
purposes. A pattern (Vogue 7698) was selected which
presented typical tailoring problems. All suits were
made from this same pattern, which had been correctly
fitted, so that any variation in fit would be traceable
to the method used and not the pattern.
As the suits were constructed, notes were made on
problems encountered; and the time required for making
each part of the Jacket by the different methods was
recorded. When the suits were completed, they were Judged
by a panel composed of faculty, extension clothing
specialists, students, and three clothes-conscious women
who do not sew. A rating scale was used to facilitate
Judging and make the scoring as obJective as possible.
After the ratings were made, the suits were commercially
dry cleaned and pressed five times. After the first, third
and fifth cleaning and pressing process, each suit was
examined and its appearance noted on a check list to
determine whether there were any changes caused by the
treatment.
The steps in the construction of the Jackets by the
different methods are described in Section II: Procedures
5
(pp. 6-55). Evaluations cf problems encountered and time
required by the different methods, the ratings of the
Jackets and possible interpretations, and the results of
dry cleaning are presented in Section III: Findings
(pp. 56-129).
PROCEDURES
Egaliminagy Investigation
Before construction was started, a survey was made of
textbooks and bulletins on tailoring and of instructions
included with suit patterns from four companies. For each
step in the construction of a tailored suit, directions
from these various sources were recorded. When construction
directions were thus compiled, it was apparent that there
were three rather distinct methods in which the construction
techniques differed. These methods also seemed to differ
in the degree of skill required for their use. It was
decided to construct one-half of a full size Jacket by
each method.
Method 1 was derived from commercial pattern in-
structions. Since directions given by different companies,
or by one company for different patterns, are not the same,
a method which was a composite of techniques from various
pattern instruction sheets was selected. Suit patterns
from Simplicity, McCall's, and Advance were chosen in
designs which were similar to Vogue 7698, the pattern
.from which the suits were being cut. Techniques were
chosen which were not duplicated by the other methods
to be used. This method appeared to require the least
skill, and the procedures might be described more accurately
as dressmaking rather than tailoring techniques. This
method might be followed by a home sewer who had no training
in tailoring.
Method 2 was a short-cut method. Directions for
tailored garments given in.QlQphipg_Qgp§§ggg§igp_fl§§th§J
(4) deveIOped by Edna Bryte BishOp, were used. Reference
was also made to a series of articles on Bishop techniques
in the March, April, and may 1955 issues of Practical Home
Economigg (5, 6, 7). In cases where the directions from
the two Sources differed, directions from the magazine
were followed, as being the most recent development.
method 5 represented techniques used in custom tailor-
ing. Directions followed were those used for the tailoring
course at Michigan State College. This method was chosen
to represent what is sometimes called hand-tailoring. As
such, it is a method which would require a higher degree
of skill than Methods 1 and 2.
In addition to the three methods above, there were
procedures described in other publications which differed
in certain details. It seemed desirable to include them
in the study. Therefore, directions for these miscellaneous
jprocedures were assembled to form what was designated as
8
Method 4. In many instances these were variations of custom
techniques. Sources used included:
,Mgdgrn Tailoripg_fpr Women by Frances F. Mauck (10).
, Tailorigg for the Family.by Bonnie V. Goodman (8).
I How to Tailor a Neman'sfguit, United States Department
of Agriculture Home and Garden Bulletin No. 20 (15).
Here's How to Tailor, HE 18, Agricultural Extension
Service, Iowa State College (1).
Observation of construction processes used by seven
manufacturers of ladies' suits provided the directions for
Method 5, a composite of factory methods. A complete
Jacket was constructed by this method with the exception
noted below. It was recognized that certain processes
done by machine in a factory (e.g., machine blind-stitching)
would have to be done by hand and would thus be more time-
consuming than the factory process being copied. Factories
visited were those of the following manufacturers: Printz-
Biederman Company, Cleveland; Eisenberg & Sons, Inc.,
Chicago; Johnson Garment Company, Chicago; Michael M.
Elisberg, Chicago; L. Wald Company, Chicago; Wilson Garment
Manufacturing Company, Chicago; and Rothmoor Corporation,
Chicago. Procedures followed were, as much as possible,
those which differed from the first four methods. In the
case of the cutting and handling of the front interfacing
it seemed desirable to try two methods. Therefore, the
two fronts of Jacket 5 differ in this respect and are
designated 5a and 5b.
The half-Jackets made by the first four methods were
constructed at the same time to facilitate comparison of
related procedures. Construction of the factory-method
Jacket was delayed until after the others were completed;
due to production schedules, it was impossible to arrange
factory tours earlier.
Vogue pattern 7698 was selected as presenting the
three features characteristic of a truly tailored Jacket:
tailored collar, two-piece sleeve, normal underarm seam
replaced by an underarm section. The design was slightly
modified by elimination of the pockets and the vent opening
on the sleeves.
A size 12 pattern was purchased, which was fitted to
the author. After changes were made in the paper pattern,
a Jacket was constructed in.muslin and further changes
made. Alterations on the back and upper sleeve were
necessitated by the author's erect posture which shortens
the upper back of the figure. Other changes related to
the waistline and length of the Jacket. This altered
pattern was used for all Jackets. For a detailed analysis
of the alterations made in the paper and muslin patterns,
see Appendix I.
10
The fabric chosen for the suits was a worsted of
basket-weave construction. It was selected as a fabric
that would reapond well to the pressing and shaping
procedures of tailoring. Interfacing fabrics available
in tailors' supply houses and representative of the quality
which would probably be used by most home sewers were
selected. Samples of all fabrics used are mounted in
Appendix II.
In all pressing procedures, the goal was to achieve
the best possible results, so that the pressing on all
Jackets would appear the same. In doing so, it was hoped
to eliminate pressing as a variable which might affect
the appearance of the suits. Where construction methods
contributed to the difficulty of achieving a good press,
this fact was noted so that it might be considered in
evaluating the methods.
The construction methods used are described step by
step in the following sections.
Note: When a Jacket is identified by a number, the
number refers to the method used.
Construction Methods Ugeg
Seam Allowances
Method 1 (Commercial pattern instrgctions).leacket l was
cut with five-eighths inch seam allowances and two inch hems.
11
Method 2 (Short-ggt method): Jacket 2 was cut with
five-eighths inch seam allowances and one-and-one-half
inch hems. Mrs. BishOp suggests one-half inch seam
(a).
allowances as allowed by Advance Patterns However,
since other patterns provide five-eighths inch, that was
the allowance cut.
Method 5 (Cgstog methogz.w Jacket 5 was cut with a
one-and-one-fourth inch seam allowance at the front under-
arm seam, one inch for the back sleeve seam, shoulder and
armscye seams, and three-fourths inch for all others.
Two-inch hems were allowed. These allowances provided
ample room for alteration and were later trimmed to narrower
widths.
Method 4 ("Miscellaneous" techniggeszg _Jacket 4 was
cut the same as Jacket 5.
Method 5 (Factory method). Jacket 5 was cut with
three-eighths inch seam allowances with the exception of
the front underarm seams where the allowance was five-
eighths inch. The latter allowance is provided for
alteration by the purchaser of a factory-made suit, while
the other seams are narrow enough to obviate the need for
trimming during construction.
(a)Edna Bryte Bishop. Clot Co st ction Met 0 ,
(1953), p. 6. h
12
Lining Seam Allowances“)
The lining was cut with five-eighths inch seam
allowances for all Jackets but Jacket 5, for which the
seam allowances were the same as for the Jacket. For
Jacket 2, the armscye edges of the front and back were
cut one inch wider than the Jacket pattern at the shoulder
seam, tapering to nothing at the notches. The armscye
seam allowance of the sleeve lining for Jacket 5 was
increased around the lower half so that it was one-and-
one-half inches wide at the true underarm. One inch hems
were allowed throughout.
Markingw)
mgphod 1. Darts, buttonholes, and seamlines were
marked with carbon tracing paper. The center front was
marked by hand-basting and crossmarks were indicated by
notches cut into the seam allowance.
Method 2., Darts were marked with carbon tracing
paper. Seamlines were not marked. The center front and
buttonhole lines were marked on the interfacing and later
machine-basted through the wool. Crossmarks were cut as
notches into the seam allowance.
(a>Refer to pp. 127, 129 for evaluation.
(b?Refer to pp. 58, 92-95 for evaluation.
15
Method 5. Carbon tracing paper was used to mark darts,
buttonholes, and seamlines. Seamlines were then stay-
stitched Just outside the carbon marking on all pieces
except the front facing and t0p collar, which were not
staystitched. The center front and buttonhole lines were
marked by machine basting. Crossmarks were marked by
machine basting across the seamline.
Mgthod 4.. The marking was the same as for Method 5.
Method 5. Darts were marked with carbon tracing paper.
The seamlines, buttonholes, and center front were not marked.
Crossmarks were cut as slits in the seam allowance.
First Fitting
Jackets 5 and 4 were hand-bested for the first fitting
of the wool Jacket. The undercollar was also fitted at this
time. Alterations were made on Jackets 1 and 2 to duplicate
those made on 5 and 4. No alterations were made on Jacket 5.
On Jackets 1, 5, and 4, the darts and back underarm seam
were stitched as basted. On Jackets 5 and 4, the front
sleeve seams were also stitched. For Jacket 2 the darts
and seams were pinned, but not basted. before stitching.
On Jacket 5 neither basting nor pinning was used. Crossmarks
(a?Refer to pp. 60-61 for evaluation.
14
were matched as the fabric was guided under the presser
foot. 0n Jackets 2 and 5 a seam gauge on the machine was
used to guide the stitching of seamlines.
Pressing of Darts
Method 1. All darts were pressed flat in one direction:
the waistline and front shoulder darts toward the center
front, the back shoulder dart toward the center back, and
the underarm dart toward the waistline. The waistline
darts were clipped at the waistline.
Method 2. All darts were cut and pressed open. The
ends of the darts (approximately one-and-one-half inches).
which could not safely be cut, were pressed as box pleats.
Method . The waistline darts were cut and pressed
Open, the ends being handled as box pleats. The other
darts were slit at the fold line, but pressed flat in one
direction.
Method 4‘ The waistline darts were pressed as box
pleats along their entire length. Other darts were treated
the same as those in.Mbthod 1.
Method 5. The treatment of darts was the same as for
Method 1, but waistline darts were not clipped.
(a)Refer to pp. 59-60, 96-97, 120 for evaluations.
16
Interfacings: Fabrics
gp§n9g_;, The front interfacing of hymo was cut by
the pattern provided (see plate 1). No back interfacing
was used. The collar interfacing, from the undercollar
pattern, was of hymo.
ggpngg_g, Hymo was used for the front interfacing.
Wigan was used for interfacing the collar, the back of
Jacket, and the underarm section. A pattern was cut for
the front which extended the full length of the armhole to
the underarm seam (see plate 2). A back interfacing pattern
was cut which was five inches wide at the center back,
extended up to the shoulder seam, and curved down around
the armsyce seam.
Method 5. The front interfacing was cut of hymo Which
extended beyond the front underarm seam to the normal under-
arm and one inch beyond the shoulder seam. Wigan was used
for the back interfacing. It was cut with the straight
grain at center back and was also extended to the normal
underarm. The collar interfacing used was of tailors'
linen canvas. In addition, a reinforcement for the front
armscye was made of tailors' felt (see plate 5).
(a)Refer to pp. 61-62, 97-98 for evaluations.
l7
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Jacket 3,
Inside Construction
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Inside Construction
18
Method 4. Hymo was used for the front interfacing
and the underarm section, cut the same as Jacket 2 (see
plate 4). Wigan was used for the back, but unlike the
other methods, the center back was placed on true bias
(a) The collar
with the warp running toward the shoulder.
interfacing was cut from.tailors' linen canvas.
method 5§., Hymn was used for the front interfacing
and was cut from the same pattern used for Jackets 2 and
4, but with the breakline placed on the straight grain
(see plate 5). Hymo was also used for interfacing the
collar. Interfacings for the back and underarm sections
were cut of wigan.
Method 5b., The front interfacing of hymo was cut
in two sections. The front section was cut with the center
front on true bias. A side front section, which extended
to the armhole, was cut with the grain matching that of
the wool front. A reinforcement for the chest and bust
area was also cut of hymo and on the straight grain (see
plate 6).
Interfacings: Darts(b)
Method 1. The shoulder dart on the front interfacing
was cut through the center and one edge was then lapped
(a)Frances F. Mauck, Modern Tailorigg for Women,
(1947 )9 hp. 410
(b)Refer to pp. 62-64, 98 for evaluations.
’. ”1‘”! f: *" r1 . “
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4.1.11.4 :J—ALAQ U
Jacket is, Jacket Sb,
Inside Construction Inside Construction
20
over the other until the dart lines coincided and the dart
stitched on this line. After both the wool front and the
front interfacing were pressed, the interfacing was heated
to the front, matching notches and edges (see plate 1).
Method 2. Darts on the front interfacing were slashed
on the marked line on one side, lapped to meet the other
line and then stitched once close to the edge and again
one-eighth inch from the first stitching. The ends were
reinforced with a square of wigan stitched in an X pattern
over the end of the dart (see plate 2). Darts in the wigan
were slashed and lapped but not stitched. The back and
underarm sections of wigan were Joined with a plain seam
pressed open. After pressing, the wigan was staystitched
to the wool, matching notches and edges. The front inter-
facing was not attached until a later step.(a)
Methgd 5. The darts on the front interfacing were
cut out. One edge was stitched to a strip of bias wigan
one inch wide, the other edge matched to it and stitched
down. The dart was then reinforced by zig-zag stitching
down the length of the dart. Darts in the wigan were slashed.
lapped and stitched using the same method as for the dart
in the hymo in Method 1, and they were reinforced by zig-zag
(a)Bish0p, 92. cit., p. 46.
21
stitching. To further shape the hymo of Jacket 5, a slash
was cut through the one inch extension beyond the shoulder
seem, the cut edges spread apart one inch and stitched
down to a strip of hymo. The felt was staystitched in
place to the armhole of the hymo, keeping the stitches
one-half inch from the armscye seamline. The edge of the
felt was graded and then loosely catchstitched to the hymo.
A dart three-eighths inch wide was cut out of the hymo and
felt, pointing from the armscye to point of bust. The edges
of this dart were closed with a cross-stitch (see plates 5
and 7). In Joining the frent interfacing to Jacket 5
(after pressing). the first step was basting the two layers
together at the center front, carefully adJusting one to
the other to keep the center front absolutely straight.
For the following steps the two layers were handled with
the wool uppermost, shaping it over the hand to allow a
slight ease in the wool. First the layers were pinned
together at the shoulder dart. The wool was then folded
back and permanently basted through the dart edge to the
hymo. Then the two layers were tailor-basted together at
the shoulder, armscye, and free edge of the hymo. At the
lower armscye, the wool was eased to the hymo, taking up
three-eighths inch ease. The wigan interfacing was tailor-
basted to the back of the Jacket at the neckline, shoulder,
PC)
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Details
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Lapel Details
I o Jacket 4
23
armscye, and lower edge of wigan, shaping and easing the
wool to the wigan.
Methgd 4. Darts in both wigan and hymo were slashed,
lapped and stitched in the same manner as on Jacket 1. In
addition, they were reinforced by zig-zag stitching along
the length of the dart (see plate 4). To shape the wool
Jacket, ease at the lower front and back armscye seams and
the back shoulder seam was drawn up by pulling the stay-
stitching tight in these areas.(a) The hymo was attached
to the wool front with three rows of permanent tailor-basting
extending from the shoulder to the lower edge of the Jacket,
plus two other rows which extended to the free edge of the
hymo (see plate 4). This basting was done on the hymo side,
'using stitches that barely caught a yarn of the wool and
that were invisible from the right side. The shoulder,
armscye, and underarm edges were then basted together inside
‘the seam line. This basting held the ease pulled up by the
staystitching at the armscye. The wigan was Joined to the
‘back with a temporary tailor-basting inside the seamline
along all edges. 03)
(a)Mauck, 2p, git., p. 26.
(b)Bonn1e V. Goodman, Tailori for the Fami s
(1951). p- 314-
24
Metdod 5., Darts on the interfacing of Jacket 5a were
stitched as for Jacket 1. The two front interfacing sections
of Jacket 5b were Joined with a plain seam pressed Open.
The chest reinforcement was then machine-stitched in place.
The wigan for the back of Jacket 5 was staystitched to the
wool, one-fourth inch.from the edge. The front interfacings
were not attached at this time.
Front Edges and Lapels(a)
Method ;., There was no special treatment of the front
edge; the hymo was simply stitched into the seam when the
facing was attached in a later step.
Method 2., The front edge of the interfacing was
finished with a bias strip of cotton to keep the hymo out
of the edge seam. To do this, the strip of bias tape was
placed on the hymo with outer edges matching, and pressed
to match the shape of the hymo edge. The tape was then
stitched to the hymo slightly more than five-eighths inch
from.the raw edge. A second row of stitching was placed
one-eighth inch inside the first. Then the hymo was
trimmed away close to the stitching. The final step was
to staystitch the wool front through the bias tape of the
(a)Refer to pp. 64-67, 100-105, 120-123 for evaluations.
25
interfacing along the front edge and through the hymo and
wool along the neckline, shoulder, armscye and underarm
seam. The center front and buttonhole lines were machine-
basted through to the wool at this time (see plate 2) (a)
Method 5. The first step was padding the lapel area.
Starting on a line one-fourth inch from the breakline (on
the lapel side), the lapel was filled with padding stitches
three-eighths inch long. As the lapel was padded, it was
shaped over the hand, so that it took on a definite roll
(see plate 8).
The second step was taping the breakline. A one-fourth
inch cotton edge tape was pinned to the hymo so that one
edge was on the breakline and the other on the armscye side
of the breakline. The Jacket front was than.fitted to the
author, drawing up some ease from the bust by the tape.
After fitting, the edges were seedstitched down and the
tape further held by a row of short tailor-basting stitches
through the center. The tape was cut long enough to extend
beyond the neckline seam so that it might later be attached
.to the collar (see plate 8).
Taping the front edge was the third step. The hymo
interfacing was trimmed off one-sixteenth inch inside the
(a)Bishop, 9p, cit., pp. 46-47.
26
seamline, from the lower edge of the Jacket up the front
edge and across the top of the lapel to the notch point.
Edge tape was pinned in place so that one edge extended
Just beyond the seam line and the other covered the raw
edge of the hymo. The tape was held slightly taut along
the lapel edge to tighten the roll and along the lower
corner of the Jacket to insure its fitting close to the
figure. The tape was attached by seedstitching its inside
edge to the hymo. The other edge was basted to the wool
and then stitched from the right side on the stayline-
marked seamline (see plates 5 and 8).
Method d. ,Padding of the lapel and taping of the
' breakline and front edge were done using procedures which
varied from those described in Method 5. First, edge tape
was centered over the breakline and held in place with
three rows of fine tailorbasting. Although the tape was
held someWhat taut, there was no attempt to fit in ease.
Extra length was allowed at the neckline end of the tape
to be fastened to the collar later (see plates 4 and 8).
Next the lapel area was filled in and shaped with large
padding stitches. In addition, two rows of padding stitches
were placed parallel to the breakline, toward the armscye
(see plate 8).(a) The tape for the front edge was cut
tho . The front facing was applied with the top
collar in a later step. ‘
thhog 2. The facing was pinned to the front, matching
edges, and stitched down from the interfacing side. Only
the front edge and lower corner were stitched at this time;
the edge from the point of the lapel to the notch was not
stitched. The seam was pressed open and graded to widths
of one-eighth inch and one-fourth inch. In the lapel area
the facing seam allowance was the wider; below the lapel
the seam allowance of the coat was the wider.(b)
method . The facing was held even below the lapel,
but eased over the breakline and along the lapel. The ease
was placed by first pinning the three layers together along
(aéRefer to pp. 69, 105-106, 120-125 for evaluations.
(b)Bishop, _p_. cit... p. 48.
33
the breakline. Then the lapel was rolled over the hand with
the facing uppermost to allow ease for the roll, and other
pins were placed one inch from the seamline along the side
and t0p of the lapel. Another row of pins Just inside the
seamline allowed a puffing of the facing between these last
two rows of pins. After basting, the facing was stitched
on through the tape on the interfacing side, where the
previous stitching indicated the exact seamline. The seam
was then pressed open, edges trimmed to one-eighth inch and
the facing turned to the wrong side. After edge basting
and pressing, the facing Was turned back and invisibly
hemmed to the interfacing, one-half inch from the edge.
method 4. The facing was applied after the shoulder
and underarm seams were stitched. Before the facing was
basted to the Jacket, a new seamline was marked on the
facing lapel, one-eighth inch outside the original line.
The facing was then attached to the front, matching seamlines.
The seam was pressed open, trimmed to three-eighths inch on
the facing edge and one-fourth inch on the front edge, then
turned to the wrong side and again pressed.(a)
Eetgog . The facing used was out one-eighth inch
larger through the lapel area. The facing was stitched to
(a)He;e's How to Tailor, (1950), HE 18, p. 19
34
the front, matching edges. On Jacket 5a, the seam was
pressed open, trimmed to three-sixteenths inch, turned,
basted and pressed. 0n 5b the edge was trimmed and turned
(without having been pressed Open), basted, and pressed
flat.
(a)
Seams
Shoulder and front underarm seams were basted, back
seam cf the sleeve basted, and the collar padded (see next
step) for the second fitting of Jackets 3 and 4. "Alterations
made were duplicated on Jackets 1 and 2.
Method l. The hymo was included in the shoulder seam
when the seams were stitched.
Method . Both hymo and wigan went into the shoulder
and front underarm seams.
method 3. Only wigan went into the shoulder seam.
After thisseam was stitched, the wigan seam allowance was
trimmed off close to the stitching. The seam was pressed
open; and then the hymo was brought over the seam, permanently
basted to the seam allowance, and the edge catchstitched
down.to the wigan. Neither wigan nor hymo was included
in the underarm seam allowances. Instead they were lapped
and catchstitched together at the true underarm.
(a)Refer to pp. 70, 107 for evaluations.
35
Method 4. The interfacings did not go into either
shoulder or underarm seam. After the shoulder seam was
stitched, the hymo and wigan were cut off at the stitching
line and catchstitched to it. The edges of the seam allowance
were then catchstitched to the interfacings. This seam was
taped by fitting edge tape over the seamline and tailor-
basting the edges in place. At the underarm seams, the
back interfacing was lapped over the pressed open seam and
permanently basted to it. The front interfacing was then
lapped over the back and held by catchstitching.
Method . The interfacings went into all seams.
Collar(a)
Method 1. The hymo interfacing was placed on the
wrong side of the collar and the two layers machine-stitched
together along the roll-line. The stand area of the collar
was then filled in with rows of machine stitching parallel
to this first row. In the next step the neckline seam of
the undercollar and Jacket were Joined. The interfacings
of both Jacket front and collar were included in this seam,
which was pressed open after being stitched. The upper-
collar was then Joined to the neckline of the front facing
(a)Refer to pp. 70-75, 107-111, 123-124 for evaluations.
56
and the seam pressed Open. The final step was Joining the
uppercollar-facing unit to the undercollar-Jacket unit by
matching the outer edges and stitching them together along
both the collar and facing edges. The seam was finished by
pressing open, trimming to one-fourth inch, turning, basting
and pressing flat.
ggthod 2._ The seamlines of the bias-cut undercollar
and the wigan interfacing were staystitched separately, and
the grainline marked in a diamond pattern on the wigan. The
undercollar and wigan were then staystitched together one-
eighth inch inside the seamline along the outer edges and
ends and on the seamline at the neckline. They were also
stitched together on the grainline pattern marked on the
wigan.(a?
Pressing to shape the undercollar was the next step.
It was folded so that the outer edge matched the neckline
edge at center back and this fold continued forward to the
notch point at the front of the collar. The collar was
pressed on the wigan side, pressing from the outer edge to
the fold, training the collar to a curved shape.(b)
(a)Edna Bryte Bishop, Interfacing a Collar, ac cal
.Hgme Economics, 51:12, April 1955.
(b)Bish0p, Clothing Construction Methods, p. 51.
57
The interfacing was then trimmed away close to the
staystitching. The undercollar was next stitched to the
top collar along the outer edge and the seam pressed open
and graded. The ends were not closed at this time. The
undercollar and Jacket were Joined at the neckline, including
in the seam both the wigan and hymo interfacings. The tOp
collar was seamed to the facings and the neckline seams
were then pressed open. Finally the seams at the end of
the collar and the top of the lapel from point to notch
were closed. After the seams were pressed and graded and
the facings turned to the wrong side, the neckline seams
were permanently basted together from the inside.(a)
method 5. Padding of the interfacing to the under-
collar was done before the second fitting, so that its fit
might_be checked. The canvas was first machine stitched to
the undercollar on the roll-line. The stand and fall were
then filled in with padding stitches, parallel to the roll-
1ine on the fall, perpendicular to it on the stand. Shaping
was accomplished by pressing, stretching the outer and
neckline edges and shrinking the roll-line.
Before attaching the undercollar to the Jacket, the
neckline seam allowance of the canvas was trimmed off at
(a)Ibig., p. 52.
58
the seamline and the wool seam allowance (trimmed to one-
fourth inch) turned back, pressed, and catchstitched to the
canvas. This edge was then felled to the neckline seamline
of the Jacket. To finish the inner neckline, the seam edges
of wigan and hymo were catchstitched to the canvas. The
tape from the lapel breakline was pinned along the breakline
of the collar, fitted and the edges seedstitched to it.
The neckline seam was heavily pressed to reduce bulk of
shoulder seams and darts entering the neckline.
To apply the t0p collar, it was first draped over the
undercollar, the breakline marked, and then the collar was
shaped by pressing to stretch the outer edge and shrink
the inner neckline area. The shaped top collar was pinned
over the undercollar, matching breaklines, and the neckline
seam of the top collar slip-basted to the facing. The
outside seamline of the top collar was traced as a line
one-eighth inch outside the seamline marked on the under-
collar. Finally, the collar was turned wrong side out,
the neckline seam stitched and pressed open and then the
seamlines at the outer edge matched and stitched. The
canvas was trimmed off at the seamline of the undercollar
before this seam was stitched. The seam was pressed open,
trimmed to one-eighth inch and the collar turned right side
59
out. After pressing the edge, the front neckline seam
allowance on the facing was permanently tacked to the
interfacing, and the allowance across the back of the
neck catchstitched down to the wigan.
Method 4., An undercollar of melton was used. The
canvas interfacing was permanently basted to the under-
collar on the roll-line. The rest of the collar was padded
with the stitches placed parallel to the roll-line on the
fall and perpendicular to it on the stand.(a) The stitching
of the center back seam was slanted out three-sixteenths
inch from the roll-line to the outer edge to provide extra
length along the outer edge. The undercollar was then
pressed, working from the outer edge and neckline toward
the roll-line.
In the next step, the neckline seam allowance was cut
off. The canvas and melton were staystitched together one-
eighth inch from this edge and the canvas trimmed off close
to the stitching. The melton edge was then felled to the
neckline of the Jacket. The wigan across the back neckline
was catchstitched in place to the canvas. The tape brought
up from the lapel breakline was cut off one—and-one-half-
inches beyond the neckline and tailor-basted over the collar
(3)6mith, 9p. git" p. 9.
40
breakline. The neckline and gorgeline seam of the facing
was then trimmed to one-fourth inch, turned under and
basted.
On Jackets 1 and 2, the armholes were not taped nor
were they shaped in any way. On Jacket 5, shaping of the
armhole was done when the interfacings were attached. On
Jacket 4, the hymo and wigan interfacings were trimmed off
Just inside the armscye seamline. Edge tape was then basted
over the raw edge. One edge was catchstitched to the hymo
and the other stitched to the wool on the seamline.
For
Jacket 5a, edge tape was placed two-and-one-half inches
below the shoulder seam, extended down three-and-one-half
inches, drawing up one-fOurth inch ease. The same spacing
was used front and back. Seam ribbon was used to stay the
armscye of Jacket 5b. It extended from shoulder seam to
front underarm seam on both the front and back sections.
It was stitched over the interfacing on the seamline with
no attempt made to draw up ease (see plates 5 and 6).
(c)
Sleeves
method 1. The front and back seams of the sleeve
were stitched at the same time, easing the upper sleeve at
(a)Refer to pp. 78-79 for evaluation.
(b)
(°)Refer to pp. 76-80, 115-116, 125-126 for evaluations.
Smith, 220 Cit. , p. 140
45
the back seam and stretching it slightly at the front seam.
These seams were pressed open and the hem then turned up.
The raw edge was catchstitched down and then pressed from
the wrong side. A row of machine gathering was placed along
the seamline of the sleeve cap. The sleeve was next pinned
to the Jacket and the gathering thread drawn.up until the
sleeve seamline matched that of the Jacket. This seamline
was basted, stitched, and pressed to shrink out the full-
ness. The seam allowance was not trimmed, but the upper
two-and-one-half inches on either side of the shoulder
seam was pressed toward the sleeve. The front interfacing
of hymo went into the armscye seam.
method 2. The back seam of the sleeve was stitched
first, easing in the fullness, and the seam pressed open.
A row df staystitching was placed along the armscye seamline,
lengthening the stitch over the sleeve cap between the
notches to serve as a gathering thread there. The gathering
thread was drawn up until the sleeve seam matched the Jacket
armscye, after which it was pressed to shrink out fullness.
At the lower edge the hem allowance was turned back and
blocked to shape by pressing. Then a bias strip of wigan
two inches wide was fitted inside the hem and stitched to
the wool so that it extended one-half inch beyond the hem
46
allowance. The front seam was stitched next (including the
wigan through the hem) and pressed open. The wigan was
hemmed to the sleeve, using a concealed hemming stitch.
The sleeve was then pinned and stitched to the Jacket. The
front and back interfacings of the body of the Jacket went
into this seam. The upper portion of the seam was pressed
as on Jacket 1. Then a one-and-one-half inch wide strip of
cotton sheet wedding was tacked over the sleeve side of the
armscye seam, across the sleeve cap from notch to notch.(a)
Method 5., The front seam was stitched and pressed,
the fullness along the back edge of the upper sleeve shrunk
out, and the back seam basted before the second fitting.
Necessary alterations were made before this seam.was stitched
and pressed. The lower edge was then finished using a bias
strip of wigan four inches wide. The wigan was placed
against the wrong side of the wool, with its lower edge at
the turning line of the hem. Working from the right side
' it was tailor-basted to the wool. The ends were lapped
and catchstitched to the front and back sleeve seam and
the lower edge catchstitched along the turning line of the
sleeve. The hem allowance of the wool was turned back
(EDEdna Bryte BishOp, Sleeve Construction, Practical
Home Economic , 51:16-17, April 1955.
47
against the wigan, catchstitched to it; and the lower edge
was pressed from the right side, shrinking out the fullness
on the inside of the hem.
The armscye seam of the sleeve was prepared by stitch-
ing ease threads on the seam line. Front and back ease
threads were separate, ending three-fourths inch from the
center top point of the sleeve cap. Pinning the sleeve to
the armhole at the crossmarks that had been placed on the
seamline during the second fitting, the ease was drawn up
until the length of the sleeve matched that of the Jacket
armscye. The sleeve cap was pressed to shrink out the ease
and then pinned and basted to the Jacket. After being
stitched, the seam allowance was trimmed to three-eighths
inch and the seam pressed into the sleeve across the upper
five inches, as in Jacket 1. On this Jacket, the front
interfacing of hymo and the felt reinforcement were not
stitched into the seam. Instead they were trimmed to less
than the wool seam allowance and permanently basted to it.
The wigan of the back interfacing was included in the seam.
Mbthog 4.; Front and back sleeve seams were handled
the same as they were in Method 5. The lower edge was
reinforced with a strip of bias wigan three inches wide
placed to extend one-fourth inch beyond the fold-line.
48
The wigan was permanently and invisibly basted to the wool
at the fold-line and catchstitched down to the seam allowances
at the upper edge. The hem allowance was catchstitched to
the wigan and then the hem pressed from the wrong side.(a)
Three gathering threads were used to draw up the fullness
over the sleeve cap. While this ease was being shrunk out,
the gathering thread inside the seamline.was removed, to
prevent its marking the wool.(b)
Before the sleeve was set into the Jacket, it was lined.
First the sleeve seams of the lining were stitched and pressed.
The lining was then tacked to the sleeve with a permanent
basting Joining the seam allowances at the front and back
seams. The lining was turned right side out over the sleeve
and the lower edge of the lining turned under forming a fold
about one inch from the lower edge of the sleeve. The lining
was basted down three-eighths inch above this fold, the fold
turned back and the lining slipstitched to the sleeve hem.
Next the lining was fastened to the sleeve, with a permanent
basting along the upper edge of the wigan reinforcement and
a temporary basting at the girth line.(°)
(a)uau0k’ J0 th-o, p. 800
(b);_b_j_-_q0. p. 700
(“E-Adm pp. 82-84.
49
In the next step, the sleeve was pinned, basted and
stitched to the Jacket. The armscye seam of the Jacket
had been taped so no interfacings went into the seam.
Seam allowances were trimmed to three-eighths inch and
the entire armscye seam was pressed toward the sleeve.
To do so, it was necessary to first stretch the seam
allowance in the lower curve of the armhole and then pin
the armscye seam flat to the.sleeve board for pressing.(a>
Method 5. .Strips of bias hymo two inches wide were
staystitched to the lower edges of the two sleeve sections,
so that one edge of the hymo matched the raw edge of the
wool and the other edge was along the turning line of the
hem. The back seam was then stitched. To hold in the
correct amount of ease along the sleeve cap, a strip of
bias wigan three-fourths inch wide was used. Notch points
were marked on the wigan by placing it against the armscye
seam of the Jacket. The crossmarks on the wigan then were
matched to the notches on the sleeve cap and the wigan
strip was stitched to the sleeve cap, drawing up the amount
of ease indicated by the length of the wigan. Pressing
was used to shrink out the sleeve fullness held by the bias
strip. The front seam of the sleeve was stitched and pressed.
(a)Smith, pp. cit., p. 15.
50
Then the hem was turned up and pressed in place from the
right side, but not tacked down. In stitching the sleeve
to the Jacket, any excess fullness not held by the wigan
strip was prodded into place as the sleeve was fed against
the feed dog on the sewing machine. The pressing of the
sleeve across the shoulder duplicated that done on Jackets
1 and 5.
Shoulder Pads(a)
Commercially-made shoulder pads were shaped to the
author and then tacked to the Jackets in various ways. On
Jacket 1 the pad was tacked down at the corners only. The
pad for Jacket 2 was permanently basted to the shoulder
and armscye seam allowances and the edges loosely catch-
stitched to the Jacket interfacings. On Jacket 5 the
shoulder pad was attached by stabstitching through the
shoulder and armscye seams and the edges were also loosely
tacked to the interfacings. Swing tacks fastened the corners
of the shoulder pad to Jacket 4. The shoulder pad in Jacket
5 was tacked in three places to the armscye seam and once to
the shoulder seam about one-and-one-half inches from the
neck edge of the pad.
(a)Refer to pp. 116, 126 for evaluations.
51
Lining(a)
For all Jackets, the lengthwise seams and the sleeve
seams of the lining were first stitched and pressed open.
Additional stitching was done on the linings of some Jackets:
For Jacket 1 all darts and the shoulder seam were stitched;
for Jacket 2, the waistline dart was stitched; and for
Jacket 5 all darts, plus shoulder and armscye seams were
stitched. Where the darts were not stitched in, they were
basted. The center back pleat was also basted and pressed
flat.
Method 1. The lining was placed in the Jacket, matching
center backs and pinning the two together at the armscye
seams. The underarm seam allowances were then loosely
basted together. The front edge of the lining was hemmed
down over the raw edge of the front facing as was the back
neckline to the neckline of the Jacket. The lower edge of
the lining was then hemmed to the Jacket hem, turning under
five-eighths inch and hemming this edge one-and-one-fourth
inches from the lower edge of the Jacket. The sleeve lining
was next placed right side out over the Jacket sleeve which
had been pulled wrong side out. The lower edge was hemmed
down to the sleeve hem. The armhole seam allowance of the
(a)Refer to pp. 80-82, 116-119 for evaluations.
52
sleeve lining was turned under and hemmed against the armscye
seam of the Jacket lining.
Method 2. The sleeve lining was attached first. With
the lining and sleeve wrong side out, the seam allowances
were permanently basted together. The lining was then turned
right side out over the sleeve and the armscye seam allowance
of the lining permanently basted to the armscye seam of the
Jacket. After this basting the seam allowances of lining,
wool, and interfacings were trimmed to one-fourth inch,
from notch to notch at the underarm. One-fourth inch on
the lower edge of the sleeve lining was turned under next
and hemmed to the machine-stitching on the wool hem. In
attaching the lining to the body of the Jacket, the first
step was machine-basting the front edge to the free edge
of the front facing in a plain seam, pressed toward the
lining. The vertical seam allowances were then permanently
basted together. (In.making a full Jacket, the procedure
would be to continue around the Jacket, tacking seam
allowances together. The other front edge of the lining
would then have to be hemmed to the facing by hand.) The
front shoulder seam allowance was basted in place over the
shoulder pad. The seam allowance of the back at the neckline
and across the shoulder was turned under and hemmed to the
55
neckline of the Jacket and the front shoulder seam. The
lining was then brought up over the armhole end of the
shoulder pad; one-fourth inch of the seam allowance was
turned under and hemmed to the seam allowance of the sleeve
lining. One-fourth inch at the lower edge of the Jacket
lining was turned under and hemmed to the machine stitching
Joining the wigan reinforcement to the wool hem. The final
step was catchstitching the front shoulder dart and center
back pleat at waistline and below neckline.::-ing, and three of them had taught courses in tailor-
ing.
The Jackets were first modeled by the author so that
the f it might be Judged. The Judges were then asked to
examine the Jackets more closely to rate the appearance
0f construction details. To make the Judging 35 013390131“?
as pc>Ssible, the criteria for scoring were listed; and the
84
members of the panel requested to rate each point using
the following rating scale:
1 -- not acceptable
2 -- below standard
5 -- average, acceptable
4 -- above average quality
5 -- perfection
Appendix III contains the instruction sheet for the
JUdges and the sheets listing the criteria for Judging the
Jackets.
The average rating for each Jacket on each of the
Judging points for fit is shown in Table I. Plate 9 shows
the I‘atings in graph form. The average rating for each
39.01591: on each of the Judging points for construction
details is shown in Table 11. Plate 10 shows these ratings
in graph form.
As the charts show, the half-Jacket made by Method 1
was <2 consistently rated lower than the others, while the
half‘ Jackets for which Methods 5 and 5 were used were
consistently high. In general, the low rating of Jacket
1' WElich was made by pattern directions, may be accounted
for by the fact that no true tailoring procedures were
used On it. Jacket 5 was constructed by custom tailoring
methOds and as such, would be expected to rate high.
TABLE I
RATINGS: FIT
Jacket
1 2 5 4 5a 5b
1. Collar:
a. fit 3.4.“) 3.9“” 4.2“” 5.8”) 4.2“?)
b. covers neckline seam 2.8 2.8 4.8 4.6 5.0
2. Lapel:
a. fits close to chest 5.7 5.7 4.1 5.6 4.7
b. firm, rolled; flat 5.6 4.1 4.5 5.6 4.6
corners
5. Shoulders:
a. fit, straightness 5.5 5.9 4.0 5.9 4.1 (c)
b. no excess fullness 5.1 5.9 4.1 5.5 4.2 5.4
g 4. Back shoulder:
5 a. smooth 4.0 5.9 4.1 4.2 4.8
' b.umwnmhm 5A5 2%8 Ii9 4J. .44
c. interfacing not apparent 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.8
5. Bust area 2.5 4.1 4.5 5.5 4.4 4.2
6. Underarm area:
a. front 2.5 5.7 4.1 5.5 5.9 4.2
b. back 2.6 5.5 5.6 5.1 5.7
70 WEIiStlil’le 5.2 3.8 308 5.1 4.2
8. Front Opening: (n 5
a. straight 5.5 5.8 4.2 4.0 5.9 48(9) m ‘f
b. lower corners 4.1 5.2 4.1 4.1 4.1 4.7(9) ’
9. Lower edge of Jacket 5.7 5.5 4.2 5.6 4 9(9) '
10. Sleeves:
a. hang 2.7 2.7 4.1 5.2 4.6 k
b. sleeve cap 2.8 4.0 4.1 5.8 4.5
0. lower edge 5.8 4.1 4.6 4.0 4.9
11. Lining, interlining 4.4 4.5 4.5 4.6 4.7
aRatings for Jackets 1, 2, 5, 4 are the average of 14 ratings.
bRatings for Jacket 5a are the average of 9 ratings.
CRatings for Jacket 5b are the average of 7 ratings.
dAverage of 6 ratings.
8Average of 8 ratings.
3.
RaTL-IGS: FIT
Collar:
2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
a. fit _._1 _ _ i - . - _._' _ _l
/( \3.
,1 // .)'
7 1 '/ l \
‘ ,/ x r
b. covers neckline seam me X. _ _.-,_--_-_.__ -_ -t‘~-\
' "'x /" 7
Lapel: \ x ‘ fi/
a. fits close to chest _ _ 3,,“ \,»‘ rig“
: "i.
b. rim, rolled; flat 1-111,--1.-. _7_ 2-. VJ.
corners ; ' ' .~ "'
Shoulders: ? : -
a. fit, straightness m 1 _ - _ _ 3/3,: _ 4-,
I ‘ .‘3
x ,1
x ' 3
y "“
b. no excess fullness 1 /_ {a l x... __
~\ ‘ )- i ‘
Back shoulder: \x . : )
x A
a. smooth m ,- 1.»; ~.
I ‘ I"
"’0, t '-
,/’ I, I;
b. unwrinkled ___ 1 _ _ / [ r (
252., ~
I \‘K‘; .
c. interfacing not '1 _, 3 ‘3
apparent . ’4‘ {a I,
I ,/ ’ x /I‘ .I‘
1 , /’ X K h: l/ of //
Bust area ’/ " ' ’ ’ '
Plate 9,
6. Underarm area:
a. front
b. back
7. Waistline
8. Front Opening:
a. straight
b. lower corners
9. Lower edge of Jacket
.10. Sleeves:
a. hang
b. sleeve cap
0. lower edge
11. Lining, interlining
£21
~4.-11 Jacket 1
~4 _._ Jacket 2
silo__ Jacket 3
+4 H. Jacket 4
«.4. Jacket 5a
$5
Jacket 5b
”7
(_.J
continued
2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
. i I
',__ x ,. . A r H l
i . V
l I /'
f i . fl
1 . .,. , //
r... ___? ,_. ‘1‘:--.-- -_ J . X' .4";
3 \ T \ -‘
I . v \ ~
I “ \ k
; \\' VI
; \+ x‘
I .
___... .m- - ..I;\ . ‘1? \)
I ’1 l‘ {
I ' x if
. . I a ,
I x 5 I
I 1 .x ‘ -
41—4—4“ "wt;- - 7 s...
/ . I
/\ 4
It
~~ «- ~ ( ~ I . a
w a
V
I ,., .
\ 5' ‘
)- -"
\ V -/,:'/ - ‘0 -_ l
,/
/ 4V ;
/ ’/ ’ ,
I 7 K
,C / r "
-” ”us- - -1 .-
1 0 .\ / .I' I
I \ _\ i-TH
. ‘ ‘4. f
F \ \\‘ 0.
4.4- "_; -*_\t ’ u
f 't
i i
\\ i \
I. __i-_l,li_ _. -__ i \ 3 l . . _
i ".\ ’
. .p l
\ x ’ ‘
.\ 'w'3 it
L t \ HQ 1’ l
_ l . . -,
2:0 3.0 410 5:0
TABLE II
RATINGS: CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
_._——
I Jacket
1 1-12. 5 4 5a 5b
1. Seams 4.2(a> 4.1(a) 4.1(a) 4.5(a) 4.4(b)
2. Darts: w
a. front shoulder 5.1 4.2 4.0 0.6 4.1
b. back shoulder 5.5 5.9 5.9 4.2 4.1
c. underarm 5.1 4.2 4.2 5.7 4.0
d. waistline 5.1 4.0 4.2 5.5 5.9
5. Front edge: (c\
a. straight 5.4 5.2 5.8 5.5 5.9 4.4 1
b. flct ed e drawn under 2.9 2.5 4.2 5.6 4.0 4.5
c. wiIl’holg edge 2.8(d) 2.5(d) 4.0(d) 5.6(d) 5.6(03 4.1(89
4. Buttonholes 2.1 5.5 5.1 2.4 4.1
5. Lapel: h
a. firmness, roll 2.8 5.1 4.0 4.0 5.9
b. gorgeline seam 2.5 5.6 5.8 5.6 5.9 ‘
0. front edge 2.8 5.2 4.5 5.5 44.1
6. Collar:
a. shaping 2.9 2.7 5.9 5.8 4.1
b. conSpicuousness of padding 2.9 2.6 4.0 5.9 4.4
c. outer edge 2.2 5.1 4.0 4.1 4.2
d. inside of neckline 5.5 2.8 5.8 5.2 4.2
e. firmness 5.6 5.5 4.5 5.9 4.2
f. roll-line at gorgeline 2.5 5.6 4.1 5.7 4.1
7. Front interfacing 2.707) 5.5“) 5.8 5.6 5.9 4.4“” 83
8. Lower edge:
a. firmness 5.4 5.1 4.1 5.7 4.2
b. upper edge 5.6 5.4 4.5 5.1 4.5 p
c. inside surface 5.2 5.5 5.6 5.1 4.1 '
9. Armhole 2.7 5.5 5.8 5.9 4.1
10. Sleeve hem:
a. firmness 5.5 5.5 4.5 5.8 4.4
b. upper edge 5.8 4.0 4.4 4.1 4.5
0. inside surface 5.9 4.0 4.2 5.4 4.0
aRatings for Jackets 1, 2, 5, 4 are the average of 14 ratings.
bRatings for Jacket 5a are the average of 9 ratings.
CRatings for Jacket 5b are the average of 8 ratings.
dAverage of 15 ratings.
eAverage of 7 ratings.
fAverage of 12 ratings.
1.
4.
RATING § 8
Seams
Darts:
a.
b.
C.
(1.
front shoulder
back shoulder
underarm
waistline
Front edge:
a. straight
b. flat, edge drawn
under
C. will hold edge
Buttonholes
Lapel :
a. firmness, roll
b. gorgeline seam
c . front edge
I
I
I
I
Plat 0, continued
6. Collar: . 2.0 3 0 4.0 5,0
a. shaping , I - - .----.-..' . :
I I It; \\
I +I! \
I ‘ 1'? \
b. conspicuousness of I, I -_-- ._I\_-_ -
padding l./ is /
, / x is /
c. outer edge <---\.-7- - - - )IiI _._ _._-
I \\ \ / X 4, I
I \//‘ X XX 11 ;
d. inside of neckline L- ,_____ 4 5,4“ , ___; I g
I ‘\ x I
I \x, if x _I\
e. firmness . kiln-w.- -....--
. , /"‘ ‘r I 3"
, /” I “ /
f / I + h
f. roll-line at gorgeline r i/’ I). /
735"“— ‘ _
I \ / sf; ‘1‘}?
I , / + r/
7. ant interfacing ‘-_.-_-.L_-_.--_-,-.,)¢_/_--j< a
I \ / I f. ‘.
8. Lower edge: . \ I k \\
3 ‘ \ \.
, z ‘1' I.
a. firmness L- 4\_l.t.-...._.\L---. g _, .
I K x \I
i \ \‘< "I
. x ~ ‘\
. x‘ \ I >
b. upper edge ;-.-.- .x. -\.- -.. ------..-.;.--..----
I + I I "./
+ II/ / 7
. «L I» ‘/ ‘9
c. inside surface :.--_-__ --__---___- i.- a” l
I ’ '7 O .
/ S \ I
. \ X ‘ e
9- Armhole -/ I is, .1 - -.__
. ‘ I 3r
10. Sleeve hem: . \ I fix.
. I _'_ 00"
a. firmness __"me\_l_m_éwm_g‘ r g __
\ \ )r .3 I,
I \‘ . x ‘3
k ._ .
b. upper edge I - - -- ..-_.\. 5 II
I ‘ /x’
I I. I a
I x I /o/
. I .
c. inside surface Lil-W.-- ,»y I {1. .
2I . 3L0 4IO bIO
Ks
sea _ _._ Jacket 1 a _ Jac et 3 .-._----Jacket 5a
- Jacket 2 I. _, .. Jacket 4 52 Jacket 5b
91
The procedures used on Jacket 5 were in many instances
similar to those used on Jacket 2, which was generally
rated much lower.. However, in considering the high rating
on Jacket 5, two factors which might have contributed to
this result should be acknowledged: Jacket 5 was made
last and thus received a minimum of handling. The resulting
good appearance emphasizes the advantage of light, quick
handling. Also this Jacket benefited by the skills acquired
in constructing the other Jackets.
Note: Members of the panel noticed that the author's
right shoulder was somewhat lower than the left. This I
would affect the fit of the right-half Jackets (1, 4, 5a)
on the following points:
Sheet I, Fit:
5b. No wrinkles or excess fullness in front
of shoulder seam.
5. -Bust area unwrinkled, smoothly rounded
with no hollow areas near armhole.
6a. Smooth, unwrinkled front underarm area.
6b. Smooth, unwrinkled back underarm area.
10a. Sleeve hangs smoothly from armhole to
wrist, with no deep folds or wrinkles.
Jackets 1 and 4 rank low on these points, but the general
superiority of Jacket 4 to Jacket 1 is shown by the fact
that it ranked higher on the points listed.
The ratings of the Jackets were used to indicate the
value of the different procedures which made up the five
methods. Since the custom tailoring method (5) in general
92
required the most skill, as well as time, for construction,
the purposes of the procedures used were examined. Then by
checking against the ratings, it was determined whether the
results were consistent with the techniques used. A com-
parison with other methods was also made in this way.
In some instances, the value of a certain procedure
was indicated by its rating on several points. In other
cases, more than one procedure affected the rating on a
specific point. In this event, all procedures concerned
were noted.
In examining the ratings, it should be kept in mind
that careful handling and pressing during construction
could result in an initially good appearance, but that
defects might ShOW'up as the Jacket was worn and dry cleaned
and pressed. The Jackets made for this study were not
wear-tested. They were given a series of five dry cleanings
and pressings. Changes which occurred during these treat-
ments are recorded and discussed in the next section:
Results of Dry Cleaning and Pressing (see pp. 119-129).
Cutting and marking.(a) Wide seam allowances were
provided as a safety measure for alterations on Jackets
5 and 4. Since the pattern had been carefully fitted,
(a?Refer to pp. 10-15 for procedures.
Jacket 4 Jackets
Side View front
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“Ln” -J ls.- lint-l3 15
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r l ‘ ' 1
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a. {-1. — U
Vi 81‘!
”If r-rw ’:
rims-Lilla lu
Jacket 3
oi t: 9 VI (317
'- l7 ELITE-J 18
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Jacket 5a oacke
Side View
-.~
.
TV .7» J— C --
UCLCsuG ‘1 L10
.“l: ,7 T _' , ,
04%8 View"
.- 'I ..‘
.4 ' ' I ..,
LLJ;L-L._J .Lu
96
the alterations made after cutting were minor. However,
if figure problems made exact fitting difficult or if little
pattern fitting had been done, extra seam allowances might
be very important. The seam allowances were later trimmed,
which was an additional step but not obJectionable since
it was quickly and easily done. On Jacket 5 alterations
would be limited to the front underarm seams which have
five-eighths inch seam allowances since the other allowances
were only three-eighths inch.
Staylining of the carbon-marked seamlines was a pro-
cedure used on Jacket 5 to insure accuracy in the placement
of seamlines. Accuracy would be indicated by the overall
fit of the Jacket, but no Specific points of the rating
could be used as a check on this technique.
Igggtg Ia) On Jacket 5, the waistline darts were cut
and pressed Open to assure flatness. Other darts were
pressed in one direction, but the folded edges were slit
to achieve a flat line in pressing. The rating on Sheet II
(Construction Details), points 2a, b, c, d: darts, should
reflect the effectiveness of these techniques. The waist-
line darts of Jacket 5 were rated highest in appearance
while those of Jacket 2, which were also pressed Open,
(a)Refer to p. 14 for procedures.
97
were second highest. Jacket 5 did not rank so high in the
appearance of front shoulder and back shoulder darts. The
front shoulder and underarm darts in Jacket 2, which were
pressed open, rated highest, indicating that this may be
the best means of achieving flat-appearing darts. The
front shoulder and underarm darts of Jacket 5 rated higher
than those of Jackets l and 2, which had not been slit.
Integfacing§.(a) On Jacket 5 the hymo used for the
front interfacing was cut so that it extended about three
inches below the armscye to the underarm. In addition,
felt was used to support the shape of the armscye, chest
and bust areas. The interfacings thus used might have
affected the ratings on the following points:
Sheet I, Fit:
5b. fullness in front of the shoulder seam
5. fit of the bust area
6a. fit of front underarm area.
On all of these points, Jacket 5 rated high. In
contrast was Jacket 1, which was given a low rating on
these points. This might be explained by the shape of
its interfacing, which did not extend to the underarm
and the absence of the felt reinforcement. The value of
the felt interfacing was indicated by the fact that Jacket
5 ranked higher than 2 and 4, even though the cut of the
(a)Refer to pp. 15-24 for procedures.
98
interfacings was similar on all three Jackets. (See also,
Hgtg, page 91.) A hymo reinforcement was used in method
5b, and the Jacket made by this method rated high on points
5 and 6a.
The collar interfacing of Jacket 5 was tailors' canvas.
The collar interfacing used might affect the rating on the
following point:
Sheet II, Construction Details:
6e. firmness of the collar.
This rating shows that Jacket 2, which had a wigan inter-
facing, and l, which had a hymo interfacing, rated lower
than 5 and 4, which had interfacings of tailors' canvas,
and 5, which had a hymo interfacing. This would seem to
indicate the superiority Of the canvas to wigan, whereas
other factors may account for the discrepancy in the
ratings of the hymo-interfaced collars, l and 5.
The methods used to construct the darts in the inter-
facings were designed to make the darts as flat as possible
and thereby reduce bulk under the wool darts. No comparison
of the effectiveness of the methods is shown in the ratings.
In attaching the interfacings to the front of Jacket
5, the wool was eased over the interfacing through the
bust and chest. This area was further shaped by the dart
cut out of the felt and hymo and the ease taken up in the
99
wool as it was basted to the interfacing along the armscye.
Points on which the rating might have been affected by these
procedures were the same as those affected by the cut of
the interfacings. As noted above, Jacket 5 rated high on
all three points. The Jackets which had lower ratings not
only did not have the felt reinforcement but were not shaped
to the wool as carefully. On Jackets 1 and 2, the edges
and notches of the interfacing and wool were merely matched,
with no attempt made to shape them. (See also, EQLQ, page
91.) The high rank of Jacket 5a on the fit of bust and
underarm areas (deSpite the fact that fit of this Jacket
would be affected by the lower right shoulder) might further
be explained by the taping of the armscye for the purpose
of drawing in ease. In addition, the effectiveness of the
shaping of the front interfacings was rated as point 7,
Sheet II, (Construction Details). This rating confirmed
the above statements.
Also, while attaching the interfacing to Jacket 5,.
care was taken to keep the center front very straight.
This would affect the rating of the Jacket on these points:
Sheet I, Fit:
8a. straight edge at front opening
Sheet II, Construction Details
5a. straight, firm and smooth front edge
The high rating of Jacket 5 on these points appears to
indicate that the process was worthwhile.
100
In attaching the back interfacing, the wigan used on
Jacket 5 was eased to the wool, drawing up ease at the
lower armscye in the process. The appearance of the back
shoulder area was rated on these points:
Sheet I, Fit:
4a. smooth appearance, allows room for movement
4b. unwrinkled, no hollows near armscye
4c. edges of interfacing not apparent.
The rating of Jacket 5 on the first two points was slightly
lower than that for Jacket 4, for which the wigan was cut
on the bias. The true worth of this method would probably
be more apparent in wear, since the reason for the bias cut
is to give greater flexibility for movement across the back.
This is also the reason why the darts in the wigan are not
stitched closed in Method 2. Jacket 1 had no back inter-
facing. Again, this lack of interfacing which might permit
stretching of the back would not be apparent until after
the Jacket was worn. All Jackets were rated high on the
third point.
Fggnt edges and lapels.$a? The lapel of Jacket 5 was
filled with closely-spaced padding stitches, the interfacing
being eased to the lapel in the process to give it a
definite roll. This technique was Judged by the following
criteria:
Sheet I, Fit:
2b. firm rolled appearance of lapel; lies flat
with no tendency for corners to curl up
(3)Refer to pp. 24-28 for procedures.
101
Sheet II, Construction Details:
5a. firmness and quality of roll.
Jacket 5 was rated high on both points. It was expected
that Jacket 4, which also had a padded lapel (although
larger stitches were used), would rank fairly high.
Instead, it ranked as low as Method 1 on the first point
although on the second point it was rated the same as
Method 5.
Another process used on Jacket 5 was taping of the
breakline of the lapel. In doing so, the Jacket was fitted
so that a desirable amount of fullness could be eased under
and drawn up by the tape. It might be noted that this
procedure would be particularly effective for a full-busted
figure, in holding the breakline close to the chest. The
effectiveness of the process might be indicated by the
rating on these points:
Sheet 1, Fit:
23. lapel holds close to chest along breakline
5. fit of bust area
The rating of Jacket 5 on these points was high. The
breakline of Jacket 4 was also taped, although the tape
was not fitted in place. Evidently this taping was not
as effective as that on Jacket 5, since Jacket 4 ranked
low on both of the above points. It might prevent this
bias line from being stretched in wear, but obviously this
102
could not be shown by the ratings. On Jacket 5a the front
interfacing was placed with the breakline on the straight
grain for this same purpose.
In finishing the front edge of Jacket 5 before the
facing was attached, the hymo was trimmed off inside the
seamline. Edge tape was fitted on since it would add less
bulk than the hymo to the seam. Also, the edge of the lapel
was drawn slightly tight to help pull the seam under at
that point and to help prevent the lapel point from.curling
up. The tape was carefully fitted to maintain the straight-
ness of the center front.~ Whether these procedures were
effective was Judged by the ratings on the following points:
Sheet I, Fit:
2b. lapel firm; lies flat with no tendency
for corner to curl up
Be. front edge straight and close to body
Sheet II, Construction Details:
5a. front edge straight, firm and smooth
5b. edge flat, without bulk; seamline even
on edge or slightly drawn under
5c. thin front edge on lapel, seam held to
under side.
Jacket 5 rated high on all points. Comparing Method
5 to the others, the following points were noted: The
.front edge of Jacket 4 was taped, but there was no fitting
of the tape and more tape went into the seam. On all of
the above points, this Jacket was rated below 5, but above
Jackets 1 and 2 (with the exception of point 2b where
Jacket 2 rated higher). A cotton bias strip was used in
105
place of edge tape on Jacket 2 to reduce bulk. It was
rated very low on point 5b, but this rating was probably
affected by the seaming of the front facing, which will
be noted later. It was rather low on the other points,
although superior to Jacket 1 on points 2b, 8a and 5c.
On the latter Jacket, there was no special treatment of
the front edge, the hymo going into the seam. Seam ribbon
'was used to tape the front edge of Jacket 5a; and on Jacket
5b, the hymo was trimmed off and catchstitched to the seam-
line. The resulting thin front seam is reflected in the
high ratings of these Jackets on points 5b and 5c.
Taping may also serve the purpose of reinforcing the
front edge to prevent its stretching, but the ratings do
not indicate the comparative effectiveness of the tapes
used.
Front facing.(a) When the front facing was attached
to Jacket 5, the facing was rolled to give ease over the
breakline and puffed over the lapel to give ease which
would permit the seam being drawn to the under side. (As
noted above, the edge tape was drawn tight along this Seam-
line for the same purpose.) Again, the straightness of the
front edge was carefully checked. The facing was held
(3)3efer to pp. 52-54 for procedures.
104
rather tight at the lower corner to hold the Jacket close
to the body and to prevent the seam from rolling to the
right side. The seam was trimmed to one-eighth inch to
reduce bulk. After the seam had been turned and pressed,
the facing was caught to the interfacing with a concealed
hemming stitch to keep the seam pulled slightly to the
‘under side.
The following points were checked to Judge the effective-
ness of these steps:
Sheet I, Fit:
8a. front edge straight, close to body
8b. lower corners flat without curling
outward or under
Sheet II, Construction Details:
5a. front edge straight, firm, smooth
5b. front edge flat, without bulk; seamline
even on edge or slightly drawn under
5c. seamline apparently would remain even
or slightly drawn under
5c. front edge of lapel thin, seam held to
under side
As may be noted, the above points, except 8b and 5c,
‘were also checked in Judging the effectiveness of the
,procedures used on.the front edge of the interfacing.
On.point 8b, Jackets 1, 5, 4, and 5a were all rated the
same. Jacket 2 was rated definitely lower. On this Jacket,
edges of the facing and Jacket were matched for stitching
the front seam, and possibly the facing was somewhat larger
theui'the Jacket at the lower corner. The high rating of
105
Jacket 5 on point 5c was expected since it was the only
Jacket on which any method of holding the seam in place
was used.
0n Jacket 5b, the hymo interfacing was cut with the
true bias at the center front, so that it would give with
the wool in pressing, and not cause the wool to ripple at
the edge seam. This procedure would probably account, in
‘part at least, for the high rating of this Jacket on points
8a, 5a, 5b. However, since it was held to the edge seam
by catchstitching, it would not reinforce this edge against
stretching.
On Jacket 4, extra ease was allowed over the lapel by
marking a new seamline on the facing lapel, and on Jacket
5 by cutting the facing larger at the lapel. For this
reason, the rank of these Jackets over l and 2, where edges
'were matched, was expected on point 5c.
The seam allowances of Jackets 2 and 4 were graded to
remove bulk from the seam and prevent press marks. On
Jackets 1 and 5 the seams were trimmed but not graded; and
'the seam allowance of Jacket 1 also included the hymo
.interfacing. On all Jackets but 5b the seam.was pressed
Open before being trimmed and turned. The effectiveness
of these procedures would have been better demonstrated
;tf point 5b had been.divided so that the flatness of the
106
seam and its placement had been Judged separately. As it
is, Jacket 2 was rated lower than 1, probably because the
seam was more visible from the right side, although the
seam of Jacket I appeared definitely more bulky to the
author.
Bgttonhole§.(a) The appearance of the buttonholes
was rated under point 7, Sheet II. Construction of button-
holes on the basket-weave suit fabric proved to be very
difficult. The material showed a tendency to revel easily
when cut on the grain or trimmed close to the stitching.
The problem was magnified by the strain on the buttonholes
as the buttons were pulled through.
The buttonholes which ranked highest were those made
by the two-strip method (Jacket 5). The wider seam allowance
on both edges of the strips apparently prevented these
buttonholes from pulling out. Buttonholes made by Methods
2 and 5 were next highest. Tucked strips, applied from
the right side, were used on these Jackets. Buttonholes
on.Jacket 4, on which the stitching was done from the
interfacing side, were rated very low. The patch-method
‘buttonholes of Jacket 1 were rated lowest.
(a)Refer to pp. 28-52 for procedures.
107
‘§§§m§.(a) On Jacket 5, the back interfacing of wigan
went into the shoulder seam, but the hymo which interfaced
the front was lapped over the seam and the edge tacked to
the wigan. Neither interfacing was included in the front
and back underarm seams. Instead, the hymo and wigan were
lapped and catchstitched together at the underarm. Appearance
of seams was ranked under point 1 on Sheet II. Jackets 2
and 5 were rated low on this point, but since all ratings
were high, this low rating of Jacket 5 may not be significant.
However, Jacket 4, on which neither wigan nor hymo went into
any seam rated the highest.
Qollar.(b) The interfacing of tailors' canvas was
attached to the undercollar of Jacket 5 by a machine
stitch to mark and stay the breakline and by hand-padding
stitches to impart a roll to the fall. Then the under-
collar was pressed to stretch the outer and neckline edges
'while shrinking the breakline. The purpose of this procedure
was to make the breakline hug the neck, give an easy fit
to the neckline so that it would be comfortable over a
blouse, and provide enough length at the outer edge for
a smooth fit over the shoulder. The seam allowance at
(a)Refer to pp. 54-55 for procedures.
(b)Refer to pp. 55-41 for procedures.
108
the neckline of the interfacing was cut off, the wool edge
turned back and then the neckline felled to the coat to give
a flat seam while retaining the shape imparted by pressing.
The tape from the lapel breakline was then fitted and seed-
stitched along the collar breakline to further reinforce it.
The effectiveness of these procedures might be Judged
by the ratings of Jacket 5 on the following points:
Sheet I, Fit:
la. collar sets up smooth and close to the
back and sides of neck
lb. collar covers neckline seam in back
Sheet II, Construction Details:
6a. shaping of undercollar by padding, pressing
6b. conSpicuousness of stitches used to shape
the undercollar
6e. general firmness, ability to return to
shape when corner is bent back sharply
Jacket 5 was ranked high on all points.
The collar of Jacket 4 was given shape by hand-padding
of the undercollar and a wider center back seam. That
these steps were effective is indicated by the high ratings
on the above points. The tape used to reinforce the break-
line of the lapel was continued onto the collar in method
4 as it had been in Method 5. The effectiveness of this
step would show up after wear, more than in initial ap-
pearance. It might be noted that the holding in of the
collar breakline by the tape would be more important for
a person with a slender neck held slightly forward.
109
On Jacket 2, wigan was used for the undercollar.
These two layers were machine-stitched together in a
diamond pattern, some puckering being caused by this
stitching. The undercollar was then pressed so that
the neckline and outer edges met at center back. As was
noted on page 71, it was felt that this pressing was very
difficult. These factors seem to account for the low
rating of the Jacket on points lb, 6a, 6b, 6e. The high
placement of the breakline on Jacket 2 apparently pulled
the breakline of Jacket 1 (to which it was attached) above
the line which had been marked by machine stitching. This
resulted in a very low rating for Jacket 1 as well as
Jacket 2 on point lb. The fact that the collar of Jacket
1 had not been shaped by pressing probably affected the
ease with which the breakline placement could be moved.
The very high ratings of the collar of Jacket 5 on
all points cannot be explained by construction, since it
was handled by methods similar to Jackets 1 and 2. Thus
it would seem that the good appearance had been effected
by quick and more deft construction.
On Jacket 5, the uppercollar was draped over the
undercollar to establish the breakline and then steam-
pressed to make it smoother fitting inside the neckline
and stretched to provide extra length on the outer edge.
110
The neckline of the uppercollar was slip-basted to the
facing and then stitched from the wrong side to give a
smooth, even seam. One-eighth inch was added to the seam-
line at the outer edge to provide ease which would permit
the seam along the edge to be drawn to the under side of
the collar. Seam allowances of this seem were trimmed to
one-eighth inch, the collar turned and the uppercollar was
shrunk at the inside of the neckline to give a smoother fit.
The effectiveness of these procedures may be indicated
by the ratings on the following points:
Sheet II, Construction Details:
5b. smooth, inconspicuous gorgeline seam
6c. flat outer edge, seam held to under side
6d. smoothness inside neckline
6f. smooth unbroken quality of roll-line
where it crosses gorgeline
On all points Jacket 5 was ranked high.
The inclusion of hymo in the outer edge seam of the
collar on Jacket 1 was probably one reason for the very
low rank of this Jacket on point So. Also, the seam
allowance had been trimmed to one-fourth inch but not
graded. There was no ease allowance in the uppercollar
to permit pulling the edge seam to the under side. This
may have been accomplished by pressing, however, since the
tOp collar was free at the neckline and could be shifted.
Hymo from both the undercollar and front interfacing went
. 111
into the neckline seam Joining the undercollar to the coat.
Neither this seam nor the one Joining the facing to the
uppercollar was trimmed very narrow. Since the seams were
not tacked together, they were free to “float”. It appears
that these facts may account for the bulky gorgeline and
thus, the low rating of Jacket 1 on points 5b and Of. The
neckline seam of Jacket 2 also included interfacings, but
the seams were trimmed rather narrow and were tacked together,
resulting in much higher ratings than Jacket 1. Melton was
used for the undercollar Of Jacket 4, the purpose being to
reduce bulk at seamlines by completely eliminating seam
allowances. The effectiveness of using the melton is
reflected in the high rating of Jacket 4 on point 6c.
Lowe; edge of Jacket.(a) To provide a reinforcement
which would prevent stretching of the lower edge of the
Jacket as well as give it firmness, a strip of bias wigan
was fitted against the lower edge of Jacket 5. It was
catchstitched in place at the turning edge of the wool to
hold it in place through subsequent pressings. An ease
thread was placed one-fourth inch from the raw edge of
the hem allowance, drawn up to fit the Jacket, and the
(a)Refer to pp. 41-45 for procedures.
112
ease then shrunk out by pressing. The wigan and wool hem
allowances were stitched together and the wigan then tacked
at the seams.
The ratings which would indicate the effectiveness of
these procedures are:
Sheet I, Fit:
9. lower edge of Jacket firm smooth along
turned edge; lies flat; upper edge of
ham allowance invisible
Sheet II, Construction Details:
8a. firmness of turned edge and hem allowance
8b. inconSpicuous upper edge
8c. smooth unwrinkled hem allowance inside
Jacket
Ratings of Jacket 5 were high on all of these points.
Bias wigan was also used in Jacket 2. The procedure used
differed in that the hem allowance was shrunk first and
then the wigan blocked to match the hem allowance, before
being placed under it. Apparently the procedure was not
successful in avoiding stretching during pressing, since
Jacket 2 was rated lowest of the Jackets on points 9 and
8a and next to the lowest on 8b.
In Method 1, no reinforcement was used for the hem
allowance, the upper edge being merely catchstitched in
place and then shrunk. The fairly low rating of Jacket 1
on all points indicates that this was not a satisfactory
method. The hem of Jacket 4 was also catchstitched at
the upper edge, but edge tape was attached at the turning
115
edge, as a reinforcement. Judging by the relatively low
ratings of this Jacket on the above points, this method
was not very successful.
Cotton flannelette, cut on the bias, was used to
reinforce the hem of Jacket 5. The fullness of the wool
hem allowance was eased to the flannelette and then shrunk
out. High ratings on the above points indicates that the
flannelette may be a good choice for a reinforcement.
§1§§33§,(a) For Jacket 5, the front sleeve seam was
stitched and the ease shrunk out of the back seam before
that seam was basted for the second Jacket fitting. This
fitting permitted alterations to be made on the back seam.
After the back seam was stitched, the lower edge of the
sleeve was reinforced with wigan. A bias strip four inches
wide was used, and it was basted in place from the right
side to keep it slightly smaller than the wool and to
permit drawing in of the lower edge. The wigan was held
by catchstitching it to the turning edge and the front
seam (where the raw edges were lapped). The upper edge
was also tacked to the back seam. The hem allowance was
turned back against the wigan and pressed from the right
(a)Refer to pp. 44-50 for procedures.
114
side to keep it from being made fuller than the right side.
The upper edge was then catchstitched to the wool.
Criteria for Judging the sleeve hem were as follows:
Sheet I, Fit:
lOc. lower edge of sleeve firm along turned
edge; upper edge of hem allowance invisible
Sheet II, Construction Details:
10a. firmness of turned edge and of sleeve hem
allowance
10b. inconspicuous upper edge of hem
10c. smooth unwrinkled hem allowance inside
sleeve
Jacket 5 was high on all points. There was no reinforcement
at the lower edge of the sleeve in Jacket 1, wigan two
inches wide in Jacket 2, wigan three inches wide in 4,
and hymo in 5. Jacket 1 was rated lowest on points 10c
(Sheet I), 10a and 10b (Sheet II) whereas Jackets 2 and 4
both ranked below 5 and-5. This would seem to indicate
that some interfacing is necessary and that hymo or a wide
strip of wigan (carefully shaped) will give the best finish.
Jackets 1 and 4, on which the hem allowance had been pressed
from the wrong side, ranked lowest on point 10c (Sheet II).
On Jacket 5, fullness was shrunk out of the sleeve cap
by drawing up ease threads until the seamline matched that
of the wool and then pressing to shrink out fullness. In
basting the sleeve to the Jacket, several crossmarks which
had been placed during the second fitting were matched to
correctly place the fullness. The seam was stitched from
115
the Jacket side to give an evenly curved seamline. The
hymo and felt of the front interfacing did not go into
the seam but were graded and tacked to the finished seam
allowance. The seam was pressed with no direction and
then the upper two-and-one-half inches on either side of
the shoulder seam was pressed toward the sleeve.
The sleeve was Judged by the following points:
Sheet I, Fit:
10a. sleeve hangs smoothly from armhole to
wrist, no deep folds or wrinkles
10b. armhole seamline smooth, without wavering,
and with no evidence of fullness on sleeve
Sheet II, ggfistruction Details:
9. smoothness of seamline and seam allowance
over sleeve cap
On all points, Jacket 5 was high. Jacket 1 ranked low on
point 10a, which might have been caused in part by the
lower right shoulder. It was rated-lower than Jacket 4,
however, for which there was the same figure problem.
Thus, the fact that little effort was taken to fit or
place ease (other than by the notches) was probably largely
reaponsible for the low rating. The low rating of Jacket 2
on this point could probably be traced to the fact that
the sleeve was not basted, but merely pinned, for stitching.
Ease on the sleeve cap of Jacket 1 was not shrunk out
until after the sleeve had been stitched to the Jacket,
which probably accounts for its low rating on point 10b.
116
The high rating of Jacket 2 on this point was expected,
since sheet wedding and the lining seam allowance had been
tacked to the seamline to pad out any fullness. Wigan was
used to hold in the ease of Jacket 5 and it, too, added
some padding to the seam over the sleeve cap.
Unlike the other Jackets, the entire armscye seam of
Jacket 4 was pressed into the sleeve. No difference in the
appearance, which could be Judged by the ratings, resulted
from the procedure.
Shoglder pads.
the shoulder and armscye seams of Jacket 5. This procedure
(a) Shoulder pads were stabstitched to
is intended not only to hold the pads securely, but also to
keep the armscye seam a smooth, even line. Ratings of the
armhole seam (10b, Sheet I, and 9, Sheet II) primarily
reflect the methods used to Join the sleeve to the Jacket.
As noted above, Jacket 5 rated high on these points.
Whether the placement of the shoulder pad would help to
retain this appearance would not be apparent until after
the Jacket was worn.
Linigg.(b) The lining for Jacket 5 was prepared by
stitching and presSing the lengthwise seams of the body
(a)Refer to p. 50 for procedures.
(b)Refer to pp. 51-55 for procedures.
117
and sleeve sections. Darts were basted, but not stitched
so that they might later be altered, if necessary. The
sleeve lining was attached first, by tacking to the wool
seam allowances and hemming down the lower edge. A loose
basting was used for the tacking and a fold allowed at the
hem to provide ease through the sleeve and prevent the
lining from restricting action of the arm. The body lining
was then matched to the Jacket, tacking it loosely at the
seams to allow ease while still keeping it from shifting
out of place. The front edge was basted in place, allowing
slight ease over the bust.‘ The shoulder seam.was then
hemmed down. It had not been stitched since it was desirable
to fit it in place across the shoulder pad. The sleeve
lining was next hemmed to the Jacket lining at the armscye
seam. Care was taken to keep the armscye seem at the under—
arm.upright, tacking the lining first on the sleeve side
and then on the Jacket side at the underarm. This precaution
was taken, since if this seam is bent, it distorts the
underarm fit of the Jacket. The Jacket was pinned above
the lower edge before hemming to hold the ease as it had
been placed instead of being pulled down into the hem.
None of the ratings apply directly to the lining.
However, ratings on the following points may have been
118
influenced by lining procedures:
Sheet I, Fit:
6a. smooth, unwrinkled front underarm area
6b. smooth, unwrinkled back underarm area
7. waistline sets well to figure
These points were influenced by other construction
procedures, but the fact that Jacket 5 rates high on all
three would seem to indicate that the lining did not alter
any of the previous careful shaping.
Method 1 was ranked lowest on all points. On this
Jacket, no Special steps were taken to protect the lower
armscye seam. This fact probably added to other poor
methods in causing a sub-standard fit at the underarm.
0n Jacket 2 the armscye seam was trimmed to one-fourth
inch before the lining armscye seam was stitched. On
Jacket 4, the wool armscye seam was stretched and pressed
flat into the seam, so that no special precautions were
necessary for the lining armscye seam. The rank of Jackets
2 and 4 above Jacket 1 and below Jacket 5 on points 6a and
6b would seem to indicate the general value of all procedures
used to shape the underarm area.
On Jacket 2, unlike the other Jackets, the Jacket
lining was hemmed to the sleeve lining at the armscye.
The lining was brought up over the pad and tacked at the
wool armscye seamline. The lining seam allowances thus
119
placed added to the sheet wedding tacked to the seam to
give the sleeve cap of this Jacket a somewhat padded
appearance. However, the very small seam allowance at
the underarm appeared to pull on the body lining, par-
ticularly where it was tacked at the back underarm seam.
This was reSponsible for a wrinkle in the wool at this
point.
Resistance to Dry Cleaning and Pressing
After the test Jackets had been rated, they were dry
cleaned and pressed five times by a commercial cleaning
establishment. Stoddard solvent was used for the dry
cleaning process, with no moisture added. There were
four cycles in the cleaning process: soap, rinse, filter,
and "Vitex" (a trademarked solution containing lubricating
oils). The last cycle was followed by extraction of the
solvent, and finally the garments were tumbler dried at
140° F.
For pressing, the Jackets were placed on an inflated
form and live steam blown through them. The sleeves were
similarly pressed. The collar, lapels, front edges, and
lower edges of the Jackets were finished by machine pressing
in which steam, heat and pressure were applied followed by
suction which dried out the moisture.
120
The Jackets were examined after the first, third and
fifth cleanings to note whether any changes in appearance
had occurred during cleaning and pressing. After the fifth
cleaning, the linings were loosened to permit closer
examination of seams, interfacing edges, and hem reinforce-
ments.
Qgg§§,(a) On Jacket 1, examination of the darts after
cleaning and pressing showed that press marks were visible
over the folded edges of all darts. On Jacket 2, all darts
were very flat, with no press marks visible. 0n Jacket 5,
the appearance of the darts was good. Oh Jacket 4, the
waistline darts, which had been pressed as box pleats,
became flatter during cleaning and pressing, but those
places where the stitching was not straight became more
apparent. Press marks showed over the folded edges of the
other darts which had been pressed flat. The darts on
Jacket 5, Which had been pressed in one direction without
cutting, showed some evidences of press marks on the right
side.
Front edges.(b) On Jacket 1, the enclosed seam allowances
at the lower corner were very evident. This may be explained
(3)8ee p. 14 for procedures.
(b)See pp. 24-28, 52-54 for procedures.
121
by the following facts: hymo, a Springy fabric resistant
to flat pressing, was included in the seam, thereby adding
bulk; the allowances were trimmed to one-fourth inch, but
were not graded; and the seamline is a convex curve, causing
the seam allowances to be full when turned back. The seam
at the front edge showed on the right side in several places
after the five cleanings. It might be noted that where the
seam allowance lies between the interfacing and the facing,
there is a tendency for the seam to be pushed to the coat
side. Thus the seam may be visible below the lapel and
not apparent along the edge of the lapel although there is
no difference in the Joining of the seam in the two areas.
On Jacket 2, along the front edge of the Jacket, the
seamline and facing were visible from the top button down
around the lower corner. Although the seam had showed in
places before cleaning, it became progressively worse.
This seam was not held to the underside in any way (except
by the buttonholes). Ekamination indicated that the hymo
had been trimmed so close to the seam that it appeared to
prevent the seam from being pressed under. The seamline
along the edge of the lapel was drawn well to the under
side, even though no ease had been provided in the facing.
The hymo which caused the edge of the facing to show below
122
the lapel may also have been responsible for the seam to
be drawn under around the lapel, since on the lapel the
facing is on the upper side.
On Jacket 5, the seam on the front edge did not show
from the right side. This was expected since the facing
had been invisibly tacked down to hold the seam in place.
On Jacket 4, the front edge seam was flat but press
marks were apparent at the lower corner. Evidently this
was due to the fullness of the rather wide seam allowances
(three-eighths and one-fourth inch) in this curved edge.
The seam at the front edge of Jacket 5 shifted during
the cleanings. On Jacket 5a, this seam, which showed
before cleaning, was not as apparent after three cleanings,
and then showed again after five cleanings. On Jacket 5b,
which had a good original appearance, the seam began to
show after one cleaning, and after five the seam showed
all along the edge. Also on Jacket 5b, the front edge
before cleaning was very straight. After five cleanings
it had a definitely bowed appearance. This edge was in
no way reinforced, the hymo being catchstitched down at
the seamline. On Jacket 5a the hymo had pulled away from
the seam ribbon at the lower corner. This may be explained
by the fact that the hymo, which was attached to the ribbon
125
by only one row of stitching, had been trimmed very close
to the stitching line.
(a)
Buttonholgs. The buttonhole seam allowances,
although not tacked down on Jackets 1, 2 and 5 showed no
evidences of curling or wrinkling. The edges where the
hymo had been cut out under the bottom buttonhole of Jacket
1 did not show evidence of raveling or curling. Edges of
the strips used for the buttonholes of Jacket 5 were out-
lined by press marks.
Collar.(b) On Jacket 1, after five cleanings, the
seam at the outer edge of the collar had begun to show on
the right side. No ease had been provided to turn this
seam to the under side. Thus, although the seam had been
pressed to the under side, there was nothing to hold it
there. The gorgeline seam appeared bulky and press marks
indicated the edges of its seam allowances. The width of
the seam allowance (three-eighths inch), the inclusion of
collar and front interfacings of hymo in the neckline seam
of the undercollar and Jacket, and the fact that the neck-
line seams were not tacked together would explain the
appearance of the gorgeline seam.
(3)533 pp. 28-52 for procedures.
(b)See pp. 55-41 for procedures.
124
On Jacket 2, the puckering on the undercollar which
had been evident along the staystitching lines was not
removed in cleaning and pressing.
On Jacket 4, the outer edge of the collar showed a
tendency to shift, with the uppercollar being drawn farther
to the under side. The fullness in the uppercollar (provided
for ease over the breakline) together with the fact that the
melton and canvas evidently did not provide a firm edge,
were apparently reSponsible for this shifting. The gorge-
line seam, which had appeared bulky before cleaning and
pressing, improved in appearance.
Lower edge of Jackgt. On Jacket 1, after the fifth
cleaning, the corner of the shoulder pad had come loose
where it had been tacked to the shoulder seam. On Jacket
5, the shoulder pad had not shifted or pulled out, but the
edges had been bent back, causing a fold which made the
edge of the shoulder pad more apparent on the right side.
(a)See p. 50 for procedures.
127
Lining.(a) The seam allowances of the lining had
raveled badly on all Jackets, but this appeared particularly
serious in Jacket 5 where the lining had been cut with only
a three-eighths inch seam allowance.
Recommendatiqgg. The dry cleaning and pressing treat-
ments showed results which were, in general, expected
because of the construction procedures used. Since the
test Jackets were not worn between dry cleanings, the
combined effects of wear and cleaning were not tested.
Other results might be evident after wear.
However, examination of the Jackets after dry cleaning
and pressing did indicate that the original appearance of
the Jackets was maintained better by certain construction
procedures than others. For example, the process of
invisibly tacking the facing to the interfacing about one-
half inch from the front edge, as in Method 5, apparently
was very successful in preventing the seam along the front
edge from showing on the right side. In this same method,
the enclosed seam allowances were trimmed to one-eighth
inch. Not only did this make for a flat edge, but it also
seemed to prevent press marks from showing at the front
edge and lower corner. As indicated by the appearance of
(a)See p. 12 for procedures.
128
the front edge seam of Jacket 1, hymo should not go into
enclosed seams of this type.
Since there was no shifting of buttonhole seam allowances
on Jackets 1, 2 and 5, tacking these allowances down, as on
Jackets 5 and 4, may be an unnecessary step. Grading of the
seam allowances of the strips used for the buttonholes in
Method 5 would probably prevent them from being so apparent
on the right side.
The need for some type Of reinforcement between hem
allowance and Jacket is shown by the visibility of the upper
edge of the hem on the right side of Jackets 1 and 4.
Although the pressing after the first cleaning was evidently
too harsh, it appeared that the flannelette used in Jacket
5 resisted press marks better than the wigan in Jackets 2
and 5. However, if flannelette is used, it should be held
in place by either tacking it to the seam allowances or
hemming it down with an invisible hemming stitch (as in
Method 2) to prevent shifting of the fold-line of the hem.
It would also seem wise to tack it down at the lower edge.
All methods but number 1 were apparently successful
in holding the shoulder pad in place. However, it is
probably wise to also loosely catch the edges of the pad
to the interfacing in order to prevent the edges from being
bent as in Jacket 5.
129
The cleaning plant foreman stated that one problem
often found in home-tailored suits was skimpy linings.
These became evident after cleaning, which causes some
shrinking of the lining fabric. To provide adequate
fullness, it might be wise to stitch all lining seams
Just outside the marked seamlines.
CONCLUSIONS
Procedures to be used in tailoring cannot be entirely
standardized since the results achieved are determined by
many variables, including the sewer's skill in construction,
pressing and fitting, and the pattern design and fabric
used. These factors, together with the results desired
both in appearance and serviceability and the time available
for the construction, should be considered when deciding
on the most suitable method.
As has been noted, the fundamental difference between
custom and short-cut methods is the degree of shaping which
is accomplished by a custom method. In this reapect, a
truly professional appearance can only be attained by custom
method procedures. These would include:
1. Shaping of the Jacket to the interfacings.
2. Shaping of the front edge, by taping, to hold the
lower corner close to the body and prevent the
edge and corner of the lapel from curling outward.
on
O
Shaping of the lapel roll by padding; holding the
breakline of the lapel close to the body by taping.
4. Shaping of the collar by padding and pressing so
that it hugs the neck at the breakline and fits
comfortably at the neckline.
151
5. Provision of ease in the facing to allow for
roll at the breakline of the lapel; shaping
of top collar to fit smoothly inside neckline.
Because of the time, skill, and training required to achieve
good results from the above procedures, they may have to be
eliminated when a short-cut method is chosen. If these
procedures are omitted, then the short-cut procedures
chosen to replace them should give results as nearly as
possible like those listed. With the elimination of such
shaping, careful fitting of the pattern and of the garment
seems especially essential to good appearance.
Other procedures used in a custom method which require
less skill or time may be incorporated in a short-cut
method. For example:
1. Provision of ease on the top surface of lapel
and collar to allow for turning the edge seam
to the under side.
2. Keeping interfacings of hymo out of those seams
where hymo would be pressed back on itself, to
insure flat seamlines.
5. Reinforcement of the lower edges of Jacket and
sleeve with a strip of bias fabric; careful
blocking of hem allowance to remove excess
fullness.
152
4. Trimming of enclosed seam allowances (front edge
of Jacket, outer edge of collar) to one-eighth
inch.
5. Invisible tacking of hams and scams along the
front edge to prevent their shifting out of place.
6. Careful drawing up of ease in the sleeve to match
the Jacket armscye; shrinking of ease before
sleeve is attached to the Jacket.
This study of five different methods of constructing
a tailored suit Jacket indicated that certain suggestions
might be made for the modification of the custom and short-
cut methods studied to give results consistent with the
goals outlined above. These suggestions are based on the
time and skill required for cOnstruction, the resulting
appearance, including fit, and the resistance to changes
in dry cleaning and pressing.
Custom Method
Observations of the skill and time required to construct
a tailored Jacket by a custom method confirmed the belief
that this method is the most time-consuming and requires
the most skillful handling. However, analyses of the
purposes of using the various steps and the ratings accorded
133
to the Jacket made by the custom method indicated that the
method produces a Jacket which is superior in most reapects.
Nevertheless, this study indicated that the method
might be modified in some ways to reduce the time needed,
to make a process easier, or to give better results. For
example, for attaching the front facing, a variation of
the procedure used in method 4 (see p. 33)might be considered.
To provide a uniform amount of ease for the lapel the wrong
side of the facing would first be pinned to the interfacing
side of the Jacket front along the breakline and down the
front, one inch from the edge. Then the lapel would be
rolled back into its normal position and the facing pinned
again on the other side of the breakline. Carbon tracing
paper would then be placed against the wrong side of the
facing and the seamline of the Jacket traced onto the
facing. The facing would be unpinned and a new seamline
marked one-eighth inch outside the traced line from the
notch point to that point where the breakline crosses the
front seamline. The facing could then be basted and
stitched to the Jacket as usual. matching the newly
established line to the seamline of the Jacket would
guarantee a definite and even amount of ease to allow the
seam along the edge of the lapel to roll to the under side.
These variations in Method 4 were suggested to provide
134
ease over the roll-line as well as at the outer edge. Also,
tightening of the lapel edge by the previous taping on
Jacket 3 (see p. 26) alters the seamline, so that the
original seamline of the facing could not be used as it
was in Method 4.
Using melton for the undercollar as in Method 4 is
another custom procedure (see p. 39). The high ratings of
the collar of Jacket 4 seemed to indicate that this method
might be successfully used if the melton can be obtained in
a color to match the suit fabric. When melton is used for
the undercollar some suggestions might be made to prevent
the shifting of the outer edge of the collar (which showed
up in dry cleaning). First the trimmed outside edge of the
canvas collar interfacing might be catchstitched to the wool
uppercollar before the latter is trimmed and inserted between
the canvas and melton. Then it would seem better to trim
the melton only one-sixteenth inch from the edge instead of
three-sixteenths inch as was done in Method 4, so that the
melton could give added support to the edge of the collar.
Since in method 4 it was difficult to get a flat gorgeline
seam by slipstitching the uppercollar to the neckline of
the facing, this problem might be met by first basting the
neckline edge of the facing (seam allowance turned under)
135
to the neckline seam Joining the undercollar and Jacket.
Another solution would be to finish the neckline seam as
in Method 3 (first slip-basting,then machine-stitching and
pressing from the wrong side) before finishing the outer
edge of the collar.
The method by which the bottom edge of the Jacket was
finished in Jacket 3 (see p. 42) gave a good finish, as
indicated by the ratings. However, the resistance to press
marks of the flannelette used in Jacket 5, as shown by
checking after dry cleaning and pressing, suggests that the
use of flannelette instead of wigan in Method 3 might be
successful.
The use of bias wigan to hold sleeve cap ease in
Method 5 (see p. 49) seemed to have some merit. It might
be incorporated into Method 3, but should be revised to
provide greater accuracy in placing fullness. This might
be accomplished by marking crossmarks on the wigan to
correSpond to those marked on the Jacket and then easing
the sleeve to the wigan to match crossmarks. In Method 3
the necessary additional crossmarks were placed during the
second fitting.
Keeping the front interfacing of hymo out of the arm-
scye seam (see p. 47) appeared unnecessary. One reason
136
for not including hymo in seams is that it does not press
flat easily. However the armscye seam is pressed flat only
over the top of the sleeve cap and then it is pressed
toward the sleeve so there is no need to crease the hymo.
Allowing the hymo to go into the seam would simplify trans-
ferring of crossmarks to the wrong side of the Jacket and
also to the unfitted half. It would also make stitching
of the armscye seam easier. It would still be necessary to
keep the felt out of the seam since it would add too much
bulk, but being soft, the felt would probably be easy to
hold out of the way for marking and stitching.
'Short-cut Method
The sewer who desires to use a method which requires
less time or skill than the custom method might construct
a satisfactory suit by using a composite of certain short-
cut procedures. The appearance of such a suit would depend
to a large extent on careful fitting and pressing. Fitting
would be especially important since the suit would not have
the benefit of the shaping processes of the custom method.
The fitting process should include construction of a
muslin Jacket unless the sewer has had experience with the
pattern previously. This step takes time, but is useful
in cutting down alterations of the wool Jacket. To insure
137
accuracy in construction, staystitching to mark seamlines
seems a worthwhile procedure. Two fittings of the wool
Jacket should also be planned. This would necessitate
basting of seams, but the woman who is skillful in handling
fabric could accurately machine-baste straight seams such
as those at the underarm and on the sleeves. Stitching
seams on the stayline mark would give greater accuracy
than using a seam guide.
Construction methods used might include the following
steps:
Qggtg. The darts should either be cut and pressed
open or pressed in one direction, slitting the folded edge
before pressing, depending on the width of darts and bulk
of the fabric.
Interfacings. The pattern for interfacings should be
taken from the Jacket pattern, shaping the front and back
interfacings to extend below the armscye to the underarm.
Hymo might be used for the uppercollar when tailors' canvas
is not available. In making darts in the hymo front inter-
.facing, the procedure used in Method 2 should be easy and
give good results (see p. 20). That is, the dart was cut
.along the line marked on one side, this edge lapped to the
other side of the dart and stitched in place. Reinforcement
of the dart end with a square of wigan also seemed wise.
138
A.hymo reinforcement for the chest and bust area might be
cut as was the one used in Method 5b and machine-stitched
in place (see p. 18).
Eront edge ofiacket. To reduce bulk in the seam along
the front edge of the coat, the interfacing might be finished
with cotton bias tape, as in Method 2 (see p. 24). The
suggestions for modifying the procedure noted on page 65
should make it easier and more accurate to use. That is,
a line would be marked along the front edge of the hymo
interfacing three-fourths inch from the raw edge. Then
cotton bias tape would be placed on the other side of the
hymo, matching the outer edges, and blocked to fit it. The
bias tape should extend across the top of the lapel from
point to notch to reduce bulk in that seam. Next the bias
and hymo would be stitched together on the marked line and
again one-eighth inch inside the line. The outer edge of
the hymo would then be trimmed off close to the stitching.
Marking the line for stitching inside the seamline would
insure adequate trimming of the hymo.
USing this method, the bias tape edge of the inter-
facing is stitched to the Jacket at the front edge. The
armscye edges might also be staystitched together since
this seam is not pressed Open. At the front neckline,
shoulder and underarm it would seem wise to tailor-haste
139
the interfacing to the Jacket about one inch from the seams.
Then after stitching and pressing the wool seams, the edges
of the interfacing would be lapped over and tacked to the
wool seam allowance. This procedure is suggested since
hymo adds to the time necessary to press Open the seams in
which it is included. The back interfacing of wigan might
be staystitched to the wool at the neckline, shoulder, and
armscye seams since it presses flat easily.
Facing. To provide ease at the edge seam of the lapel
facing, the procedure of marking a new seamline one-eighth
inch outside the original (Method 4, page 33) might be used.
Seamlines of facing and front could then be matched although
care should be taken to keep the facing slightly smaller
at the lower corner. Before turning, the seam allowances
should be trimmed to one-eighth inch.
A custom method which required little extra time and
gave worthwhile results was the step of tacking the facing
to the interfacing one-half inch from the edge (using a
concealed hemming stitch) to prevent the edge seam from
showing on the right side (see p. 33).
Taping the armhole to draw in ease, as in Method 5a
(see p. 44), appeared to be rather easy and a successful
means of shaping this area. This taping might be done before
the front and back units were Joined, for ease in handling.
140
Collar. In constructing the collar on this Jacket,
rows of machine-stitching might be used to reinforce the
stand of the undercollar (See Method 1, p. 35). Stay-
stitching the undercollar and its interfacing together
one-eighth inch inside the seamline at the outer edges and
ends (Method 2) would permit trimming the hymo away from
those seams and also at the neckline where it would be held
by the machine stitching on the stand.
A process which might be used for attaching the collar
would be a combination of Methods 1 and 2 (see pp. 35-37).
A trial fitting of the collar (during the first fitting)
would indicate whether the breakline needed shrinking.
This would be done by pressing. Then the neckline seam
of the undercollar would be stitched to the Jacket and that
of the uppercollar stitched to the facings. These seams
would be pressed open, trimmed to one-fourth inch, and then
pinned together with right sides of the Jacket and facing
units together. The seam at the outer edge and ends of the
uppercollar could be checked against the undercollar for
accuracy and a new one marked if necessary. Then a new
line would be marked one-eighth inch outside the seamline
to provide ease on the uppercollar. Next this line would
be matched to that of the undercollar and the two stitched
together at the outer edge and ends of the collar. Finally,
141
the seam at the tOp of the lapel from the outer edge to
the notch would be stitched. The seams would be pressed
open and trimmed to one-eighth inch before turning. The
two neckline seams should be tacked together from the inside
after the facing and collar are turned to the right side.
Lower edge. To finish the lower edge of the Jacket,
MethOd 5 using flannelette (see p. 43) should give good
results. However, the flannelette should be tacked down
at the upper edge, possibly using a concealed hemming stitch.
Sleeve. Wigan or hymo might be used for the lower edge
of the sleeve using Method 2 (see p. 45). .Using this method,
it might be best to stitch the front seam first so that
alterations could be made on the back seam if shown necessary
during the second fitting. Ease would be shrunk out of the
back seam over the elbow before basting the back seam. It
would seem that placing additional crossmarks on the sleeve
and Jacket (as in Method 3) would make Joining the sleeve
to the Jacket easier and certainly more accurate. Ease
threads on the sleeve cap would then be drawn up until the
armscye seam matched that of the Jacket and the fullness
shrunk out.
Finally if few alterations are necessary in the wool,
so that the pattern is still accurate, Joining the lining
142
to the Jacket by machine stitching, as in Method 5 (see
p. 51), would be the quickest method. With basting-as a
guide, this method need not be too difficult.
Suggestions for Further Study
As was stated earlier, the procedures to be used in
tailoring cannot be entirely standardized since the results
achieved are determined by many variables. For this study
the pattern design and fabric used were held constant, and
the fitting and pressing were standardized as much as
possible while the methods used were varied.
A.more complete understanding of tailoring might be
gained by an investigation of the suitability of different
methods for the various types of fabric from which tailored
garments might be made. Another study might determine the
relationship between different designs and the methods best
suited to their construction.
Because of the size of the problem, other aSpects of
this study which were earlier considered had to be eliminated.
One of these was a comparison of methods used by manufacturers
of different price lines of suits. It was felt that this
investigation would help the consumer understand price
differences as related to methods, in addition to helping
143
the home sewer evaluate the results of her work in comparison
with what she might purchase at various price levels. This
would, however, necessitate an intensive survey of suits
available in the retail market plus observations of numerous
suit manufacturing Operations.
It is believed that the studies described above would
aid the person making her own suit to choose the design,
fabric, and method best suited to her own capabilities and
limitations; it would also aid consumers in selecting
tailored garments best suited to their needs, in terms of
cost, serviceability, and aesthetic satisfaction.
l.
2.
3.
4.
9.
10.
ll.
12.
l3.
14.
144
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Anon. Here's How to Tailor. Ames, Iowa: Agricultural
Extension Service, Iowa State College, HE 18,
November 1950, 23 pp.
Tailored Garmentg. Scranton, Pennsylvania:
Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences,
1937, 121 pp.
Anderson, Minnie A. ,ant and Suit Making. Minneapolis:
Burgess Publishing Company, 1943, 37 pp.
Bishop, Edna Bryte. Clothing_0on§tructign Methods,
New York: J. C. Penney Company, Inc., 1953, 63 pp.
When You USe Interfacings. Practical Home_
Economics. 31 (March 1953): pp. 18-19.
Interfacing a Collar.l Practical Home Economicg.
31 (April 1953): p. 12.
(Sleeve Construction. Practical Home Economics.
31 (May 1953): pp. 16-17.
Goodman, Bonnie v. Tailoringfor the Family. New
York: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1951, 408 pp.
Liberty, J. E. Practical Tailoring. London: Sir
Isaac Pitman and Sons, LTD., 1947, 182 pp.
Mauck, Frances F. Modern Tailoring_for Women.
New York: The MacMillan Company, 1947, 174 pp.
Poulen, Clarence. Tailoring Suits the Professional,
W 1. Peoria: Charles A. Bennett Company, Inc.,
1952, 192 pp.
Strickland, Gertrude. A Tailoginganual. Minneapolis:
Burgess Publishing Company, 1944, 65 pp.
Smith, Margaret. How to Tailgr a Woman‘s Spit, Bureau
of Human Nutrition and Home Economics, United States
Department of Agriculture, Home and Garden Bulletin
20, 1952, 52 pp.
Wilson, J. King. The Art of Cuttipgiand Fitting.
London: Crosby Lockwood and Son, Ltd., 1948, 82 pp.
145
APPENDIX I
Pattern Alterations
The following pages show the original pattern and the
alterations made. It may be noted that the changes affect
the balance of the front and back of the Jacket body and
sleeve. That is, the upper sleeve and back shoulder areas
required alterations because of the author's posture which
shortens the upper back of the figure. Only on the sleeve
were changes in circumference made.
PLATE 20
p I /
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Frog; Alterations
”___..- outline of original pattern
_. -.. _.. outline of altered pattern
147
Alterations on Front (Plate 20)
1. Problem: lower curve of front armscye too high
Alteration procedure:
a. new armscye seam to deepen curve three-eighths
inch (point a)
b. armscye seam of underarm section lowered to
correspond (see plate 21, point J)
2. Problem: lower edge of Jacket front too full
' Alteration procedure:
waistline darts lengthened (point b)
3. Problem: waistline too short
Alteration procedure:
a. pattern indented at waistline one-half inch
lower on front, underarm and back (see also
plate 21)
4. Problem: Jacket too long
Alteration procedure:
a. length removed at lower edge, shortening one-
and-one-half inch at center front to two inches
at center back (see also plate 21)
5. Problem: shoulder seam too straight to fit curve in
shoulder
Alteration procedure:
a. curve shoulder seam near neckline (point c)
b. curve shoulder seam of back to correSpond
(see plate 21, point i)
pm
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PLATE 2].
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- l outline of original pattern
_.i-__ outline of altered pattern
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l.
2.
Problem:
149
Alterations on Back (Plate 21)
Erect back which shortens the figure at the
upper back, causing extra length to lie in
a horizontal fold extending to the armscye
Alteration procedure:
8..
b.
Co
Problem:
excess at back of armscye pinned out in an
alteration dart (one-fourth inch deep)
extending to point a beyond shoulder dart.
dart thus pinned out transferred by slashing
to it from points b and c to provide one-eighth
inch ease along shoulder seam at each point,
and lapping shoulder dart three-sixteenths
inch (point d)
armscye of upper sleeve altered to match
Jacket by using a correSponding alteration
dart (see plate 22, point a)
rather prominent shoulder blade, necessitating
extra length and width at that point and
center back
Alteration procedures:
8..
pattern slashed and spread from points e to f
Spreading three-sixteenths inch at center back
and one-fourth inch at point of shoulder blade;
ease at back underarm seam divided among three
slashes
150
b. width added by increasing center back one-
fourth inch at point e slanting to nothing
at neck and waistline
3. Problem: back and figure short from shoulder blade
to waistline
Alteration procedure:
a. (pattern slashed and lapped one-fourth inch
at point a
b. corresponding length removed from underarm
section by alteration dart at point h,
lapping one-fourth inch at back underarm
seam to nothing at front underarm seam.
PLATE 22
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-ii-i.outline of altered pattern
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(upper sleeve)
152
Alterations on Sleeve (Plate 22)
1. Problem: Erect posture places highest point of shoulder
behind shoulder seamline, causing diagonal
wrinkles in pattern from the back of sleeve
cap to front of sleeve
Alteration procedure:
a. length added to upper sleeve cap at point b
2. Problem: back of sleeve too long above elbow
Alteration procedure:
a. excess pinned into alteration dart on upper
sleeve, from three-eighths inch at point c
to nothing at point d
b. underarm section altered to correspond, by
dart at point e
5. Problem: sleeve too long below elbow
Alteration procedure
a. pattern slashed and lapped one-half inch at
point t, across undersleeve; and at point g
across upper sleeve
4. Problem: not enough ease over elbow
Alteration procedure:
a. pattern slashed and spread to add one-eighth
inch at three points on back of upper sleeve
(point h) to nothing at front of sleeve
153
5. Problem: excess ease in sleeve cap
Alteration procedure:
a. pattern slashed and lapped one-eighth inch
at back of sleeve cap (point i) and three-
sixteenths inch at front of sleeve cap
(point J)
6. Problem: back of undersleeve section too full
Alteration procedure:
a. slash and lap one-fourth inch in alteration
dart at point k
APPENDIX II
Fabrics Used
APPEIDIX II
Fabrics Used
Suit fabric LininS
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APPENDIX III
Rating Sheets
158
Ewan]; an; JACKETS -- JUDGING
Introduction: Each half of the three suits you are to Judge
was constructed by a different method, so you will be asked
to Judge each half separately. All were constructed from
the same fitted and altered pattern. Also, it was intended
that the pressing (inasmuch as possible) be alike. Therefore
any variations in fit or appearance should be the result of
the different methods of construction. (However, the center
back seam has been merely machine basted to Join the two
halves, and as such it should not be considered in Judging.)
In Judging the suits, you are to use a rating scale of 1 to
5, as follows:
1. not acceptable
2. below standard
5. average, acceptable
4. above average quality
5. perfection
Please score each suit, in the spaces provided on the rating
sheet, according to the criteria for scoring which are listed
on sheets I and II. Space is provided for additional comments
which you may wish to make.
The suits will be modeled, to give you an opportunity to
Judge fit. Afterwards, you may examine the suits more
closely to score on the points listed on Sheet II.
For classification purposes, will you please fill in the
following information:
Name:
For students and non-professional home economists:
Training in clothing construction: (please check)
High School College Singer
4-H Extension Other (please name)
Have you had any instruction in tailoring?
If so, in which of the above fields of instruction?
For teachers and Extension Specialists:
Have you taught clothing construction?
Have you ever taught tailoring?
If so, in which of the above fields of instruction?
l.
3.
4.
9.
' 159
5mm I -- FIT
Collar:
a. sets up smooth and close to the back and sides
of neck.
b. covers neckline seam across back.
Lapel:
a. lapel and neckline hold close to chest from
Joining of collar and lapel to top button.
b. firm, rolled appearance; lies flat with no
tendency for corners to curl up.
Shoulders:
a. smooth, sets well to body from neck end to
armhole end; seamline appears straight from
side view.
b. no wrinkles or excess fullness in front of
shoulder seam.
Back shoulder:
a. easy enough to allow movement of arms, but
smooth in appearance.
b. unwrinkled, smoothly rounded with no hollow
areas near armhole.
c. edges of interfacing not apparent.
Bust area: unwrinkled, smoothly rounded with no
hollow areas near armhole.
Underarm area:
a. smooth, unwrinkled front
b. smooth, unwrinkled back
Waistline: sets well to figure.
Front opening:
a. front edge hangs straight (perpendicular to
the floor) and close to body.
b. lower corners hang flat, with facing perfectly
adjusted to prevent noticeable curling outward
or under.
Lower edge of Jacket: firm, smooth along turned edge;
lies flat; upper edge of hem allowance invisible.
160
10. Sleeves:
a. sleeve hangs smoothly from armhole to wrist,
no deep folds or wrinkles.
b. sleeve cap: armhole seamline smooth, without
' wavering, and with no evidence of fullness on
sleeve cap.
c. lower edge firm along turned edge and upper
edge of hem allowance invisible.
ll. Lining, interlining: in no way visible from right
side (as shown by edges, seams, wrinkles).
l.
4.
5.
6.
7.
161
SHEET II -- CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Shoulder and underarm seams: flat, inconspicuous.
(Note especially the underarm and shoulder seams
where seams of interfacings are also Joined.)
Darts: flat, inconSpicuous
a. front shoulder dart
b. back shoulder dart
c. underarm dart
d. waistline dart
Front edge:
a. straight, firm and smooth from tOp buttonhole
to hem.
b. edge flat, without bulk; seamline even on edge
or drawn slightly to under side.
c. does examination indicate that seamline will
remain even or slightly drawn under through wear?
Buttonholes: general appearance, right side.
Lapel:
a. firmness and quality of roll.
b. smooth, inconSpicuous gorgeline seam (Joining
collar and lapel). (Check seamline and seam
allowance.)
c. front edge: quality of line; thinness of edge;
seam held to under side, not visible.
Collar:
a. shaping by undercollar padding and pressing.
(Note: dark colored thread used for photography;
consider that matching thread had been.used.)
b. conspicuousness of stitches used to shape the
undercollar.
c. flat outer edge; seam held to under side.
d. smoothness inside neckline, when held in curved
position as when worn.
e. general firmness and ability to return to shape
when corner is bent back sharply.
f. smooth unbroken quality of roll-line where it
crosses collar and lapel Joining.
Front interfacing: shaping to give firm support to
wool body of coat. (Same interfacing fabric used in
all Jackets, but pattern for interfacing and application
varied.
8.
10.
162
Lower edge of Jacket: (beyond front facing)
a.
b.
c.
firmness of turning edge (indicating resistance
to stretching), as well as firmness through hem
allowance. ,
inconSpicuous upper edge. ' ‘
smooth unwrinkled hem allowance inside Jacket.
Armhole: smoothness over sleeve cap. (Check seamline
and seam allowance.)
Hem of sleeve:
a.
b.
c.
firmness of turning edge (indicating resistance
to stretching), as well as firmness through hem
allowance.
inconspicuous upper edge.
smooth unwrinkled hem allowance inside sleeve.
16$
GLOSSARY
Breakline: line on which lapel turns to right side and
continues as the roll-line of collar
Fall of collar: area from roll-line to outer edge
Gorgeline: seamline where collar Joins facing, extending
from notch to breakline
Inside of seamline: on the garment side of the seamline
away from the raw edge
Notch: point at which front collar ends
Outside of seamline: toward raw edge from seamline
Stand of collar: area from roll-line to neckline
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