A STUDY OF THE INFLUENCES AFFECTING
THE SELECTION OF CLOTHING FOR FRESHMEN
WARDROBES BY HOME ECONOMICS

STUDENTS AT A CANADIAN COLLEGE

Thesis for ”12 Degree oI M. A.
MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY

Eleanor Muriel Sanford
1960

 

 

OVERDUE FINES:
25¢ per day per Item

RETURNIIG LIBRARY MATERIALS:

Place in book return to remove
charge from circulation records

 

‘_ ~———-—.—— ._ _

A STUDY OF THE INFLUENCES AFFECTING THE SELECTION
OF CLOTHING FOR FRESHMEN WARDROBES BY
HOME ECONOMICS STUDENTS AT A
CANADIAN COLLEGE

BY

Eleanor Muriel Sanford

AN ABSTRACT

Submitted to the College of Home Economics
of Michigan State University in partial
fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts

1960

I, ‘\
,* . \\
/

.I

\I T ' 0

 

Approved fl/ (LL—Cl ‘71 CH4, ' LCUIIH» C 1‘ (1/11, Ln
F

ABSTRACT

This study was designed to eXplore various influences on the clothes
selected by freshmen students specifically for campus wear. Inventories
of clothes bought or made by eighty-eight Home Economics students at a
Canadian college were analyzed and considered in relation to the background
and clothing practices of their purchasers. Social factors which might have
influenced economic behavior were then tested statistically against actual
practices to see whether or not the influences were significant.

Findings showed these Canadian consumers to have bought most of
their $300 worth of clothes in Canada; but to have read the same numbers
and types of fashion magazines and spent nearly the same average amounts
for their wardrobes as had American students in the same year. Some
Canadian clothing brands were as well-known as American names. Students
showed above average brand recognition.

Over three-quarters of the group could sew and had made about one-
quarter of all garments that could have been either sewed or bought as
ready-to-wear. They sewed to have more’clothes for the same amount of
money or because they liked to sew. However, they desired more instruc-
tion in wardrobe co-ordination and in choosing becoming styles.

Rural background was shown by Chi Square techniques to be related
to independence in choice of clothing; more Spent on fabrics; sewing learned
at home; having fewer types of clothes; and less interest in fashion reading.

High income, urban enviromnent and lower educational levels were
three characteristics in one group that related to wider variety of types of
clothes; higher wardrobe costs; less learning to sew at home or school;

and a preference to sh0p alone and to buy some clothes in the United States.

ii

The group having the widest variety of clothes in their wardrobes
were found to be from urban areas; less interested in constructing clothes,
to have purchased more clothes during the college year and to have read
fewer fashion magazines.

Those who had read many fashion magazines were more independent
in making clothing choices; less interested in knowing in advance what
was worn on the campus; did more pre-planning of their wardrobes; were
above average in recognizing brand names; and showed a tendency to sew
more items for their wardrobe than had the remainder of the sample.

Girls who had sewn from six to fourteen items of their wardrobe
were found to have had more instruction at home or in classes outside
school; to have taken a similar amount of school clothing construction
classes; and to have read more fashion magazines than those who had
bought almost all wardrobe items ready-made. Lower wardrobe costs
were possible for the ones who sewed, thus their savings were used to
purchase more items of clothing.

Influences of background, mass-media, and the skill to be able to
either make or to buy their clothing all affected the clothing choices made
by these students and their approach to the selection of items for their

freshman year wardrobes .

iii

A STUDY OF THE INFLUENCES AFFECTING THE SELECTION
OF CLOTHING FOR FRESHMEN WARDROBES BY
HOME ECONOMICS STUDENTS AT A
CANADIAN COLLEGE

BY

Eleanor Muriel Sanford

A THESIS

Submitted to the College of Home Economics
of Michigan State University in partial
fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts

1960

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

I would like to express my appreciation to Miss
Hazel Strahan for her interest and encouragement in
the formulation of the problem; to Dr. Mary Lou
Ros encranz who guided me through the interpretations
and writing of the study; and Dr. Marion Niederpruem
who introduced me to social research procedure.
Without the co-operation of Dr. Margaret McCready and
the eighty- eight freshmen at Macdonald Institute this
study would not have been possible. To them and to all
others who have been so helpful go my gratitude and
thanks.

***>I<>I<*****>I<*

TA BLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER
I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . .....
II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE .

The Canadian Clothing Market ..... . . .
Studies in the Fields of Sociology, Economics,

and Clothing ...... . . . . . . . .....

III. PROCEDURE ...... . . . . . . ..........

Instruments . . . . . . . ..... . ......
Selection of the Sample . . . . .....
Statistical Technique . . .........

IV. DESCRIPTION OF THE SAMPLE .

General Characteristics . . .....
Age and Academic Attainment . . .....

Residence . . ..................

Number in the Family . . . .........

Sources of Income . . . . . ......

Budgets ...... . . . . .....

Expenditures . . . .......
Experience and Interest in Clothing.

Types of Clothing Experience ......

Cost of Materials for Clothing Construction . .

Reasons for Sewing . . . . . . . . .....
Further Knowledge Desired . . ......
Influence of Fashion Publications and Mass
Media ...... . . . . . . . . ......
Personal Influence . . ...... .
Clothing Interest ..............

V. BUYING PRACTICES AND PREFERENCES OF THE
GROUP ..... . ...... . . . . ......

When Items Were Planned or Bought ......

Where Items Were Purchased.
Types of Items Purchased in Each Kind of
Store ................

vi

Page

l4

14
15
16

17

19
19
19
20
20
21
21
23
23
24
25
25

28
28
3O
32

32
32

32

TABLE OF CONTENTS - Continued

,. CHAPTER Page
Shopping Outside Canada .............. 33
Preference in Shepping Companions . . ..... 34
Fibers, Fabrics, and Brands Preferred for

College Clothes ................. 34
Purchasing Practices . ............. . 35
Types and Numbers of Items Selected for
College Wardrobes ............ . 35
Items Constructed ........ . ........ 35
Items Purchased on Sale .............. 35
Range of Prices Paid ...... . . . . . .1 . . . 39
Evaluation of Purchases .......... . . . 39
Brand Preferences and Identification . . . . . . 39

VI. SIGNIFICANT VARIABLES RELATED TO THE
FINDINGS.. ..... ..... . 43

Comparison Between Degree and Diploma Class

Students......... ...... 44
Comparison of Differences Between Rural and

Urban Students . . . . . . . . . ..... . 45
Comparison Between High and Low Clothing

InterestGroups.............. .. 47

Comparison Between Fashion Readers and Those
Who Read Less About Fashion . . . . . . . . . 51

II. - A COMPOSITE VERBAL PROFILE OF THE STUDENTS
WHO DID AN ABOVE AVERAGE AMOUNT OF
SEWING COMPARED TO THE STUDENTS WHO

DIDVERYLITTLE................ 54

VIII. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Summary . . . . .................. 61

Degree- Diploma . . . . . . . . . ......... 65
Rural-Urban..... ......... 65

High and Low Clothing Interest Scores ...... 66

High and Low Fashion Reading Scores . ..... 66

~ Profiles of Those Who Sewed Many Items . . . . . 67

Application of the Findings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Conclusions ' ......... . . . ..... . . . . 69
BIBLIOGRAPHY . . . ....................... 72
APPENDIX.......... ................... 76

LIST OF TABLES
TABLE Page
I. Student Rating of Reasons for Sewing .......... 26

11. Rating of Student Interest in. Fields of Study to Make
Wardrobe More Satisfactory . . ...... . . . . . . 27

III. Fashion Magazine POpularity as Indicated by Canadian
and American. Student Ratings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

IV. Store Preferenceias Indicated by Freshman Patronage. 33

V.. Number and Percentage of Garments Made Compared
to Number and Percentage of Ready-to-Wear Pur-
chases...... ..... ....... 36

VI.- Items Selected for College Wardrobe ...... . . . . 37

VII.- Amount of Correct and Incorrect Identification of a
Name Brand and the CorreSponding Category . . . . . 42

VIII- A Summary of the Chi Square Values Found in Compar-
ing Differences Between Diploma Course and Degree
CourseStudents..................... 46

IX. A Summary of Chi Square Values Found inCompar-
ing Differences Between Students from Rural and
UrbanBackgrounds....................48

- X. A Summary of Chi #Square Values Found in Comparing
Differences Between Students With High and Low
Clothing Interest Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

XI. Summary of Chi Square Values Found in Comparing
Differences Between Students ‘Who Are Fashion
Readers and Those Who Are Not. . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

XII. Differences Between Background Influences and

Practices of the Students Who Sewed Between 6 and
14 Garments and Those Who Made Two or Less . . . . 57

viii

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION

The objective of this study was to gain an insight into the socio-
economic factors influencing the college fresMan when she assembles
a wardrobe for her first year of campus activities. Some investigations
of a similar nature have been made of the American freshman, but less
is known about her Canadian counterpart.

Preparation of a college wardrobe involves expenditure not only
of money but of time and thought. A considerable amount is usually
spent to augment the wardrobe that was suitable for high school days into
one which will be adequate for the more varied activities of campus life.
It is also a time when many young women take an adult role in society.
The change is made from living within the unit of the family to being on
an equal basis with the larger group in the dormitory residence; from
having decisions made for her in some fields to being able to make
decisions independently. Some of the economic aspects of the problem
are: What kinds of clothing are needed? How many skirts, sweaters,
or blouses, for example, does the average student add to her wardrobe?
If the student can sew, what items will be made? What is the range of
prices paid for various items ? Does the money for these purchases come
from a clothing allowance or is it earned by the student? In what type
of store and in what cities are the items bought? In what country are the
garments made or purchased? The latter question is included because
the Canadian consumer may choose from articles made in the United
States, Great Britain and many other countries as well as those made in

her own country. The students in this study lived close to the border

between the United States and Canada and may have had an opportunity
to shop in both countries.

Although the economic problems involved directly or indirectly
in wardrobe purchases are many and varied, to limit the study to these
factors would give an incomplete report of the influences present when

a purchasing decision is made. 1

This study attempts to determine how
the students decide what they need; what influences there are on the
choices they make; if they are influenc ed by peOple they know or from
newspapers and magazines which they have read; the extent of their
background experiences and interest in choosing their own clothes; and
their ability to decide whether a clothing article is becoming or suitable
as well as being worth the purchase price.

Presuming that many who enroll in a Home Economics program
have an interest and enriched background in clothing practices, their
decisions both as freshmen and students with a future professional
interest in the field provides an added perspective.

It was expected that in making a detailed study of students who
have recently been involved in the high-school to college metamorphosis,
some clarification, classification and identification of their clothing
practices would be possible. I

Home Economics curricula at the college level could then be
evaluated in the light of the students' past activities in the field of cloth-
ing; give retailers and manufacturers a knowledge of the outcome of
their endeavors; and rate the differences and similarities between

Canadian College students and those in the United States.

 

1George Katona, Psychological Analysis of Economic Behavior,
(New Ydrk: ' McGraw Hill Book Co. , Inc. , 1951); and Janet WOlff,
What Makes Women Buy? (New York: McGraw Hill Book Co. , 1958)-

 

 

CHAPTER II

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

Although clothing exists as an area of study within the framework
of the discipline of Home Economics, implications for it from the find-
ings in other fields such as Economics and Sociology cannot be kept apart.
We may also utilize the development of new approaches and more accurate
techniques for measuring behaviour from social research methods. This
survey explores the influences on college freshmen as they choose their
college clothes, first as consumers within the Canadian economy; then as
having certain behaviour patterns which are the product of these factors.
This review of the literature includes a brief investigation of the Canadian
economy relating to the clothing market; but in the main is concerned with

the studies in sociology and economics applicable to clothing.

The CanadianClothing Market

 

Canadian women have a nmnber of inter-acting influences which
.make their clothing choices similar in many ways to those of her neighbours
in the United States. The same fashion publicity is seen, the same maga-
zines read, and even apparel made in Canada is influenced by the fashions
of New York. ”An increasing number of American dress firms have
branches in Canada or make arrangements for the manufacture of some of
their designs through an established Canadian clothing firm.

. It might seem as though there would be little scope for Canadian
clothing industries, but in Spite of many obstacles they do play an important
part in the economy. - As a completely self-governing country Canada

is less than one hundred years old. Although her area is larger

the population is only one-tenth that of the United States. Untilthe

last few decades the economy was based on the primary industries
connected with the rich natural resources. These are still important,
but the. recent economic boom has helped to enlarge and strengthen
secondary industries so necessary to an industrial economy. Textile
mills now make greater use of fibers and yarns created from chemicals
produced in the country, p.121 lessening reliance on heavy imports of
wool and cotton fibers. Clothing manufacturing has also been more
firmly established.

Canada would like to supply a greater part of her home market in
clothing and textiles but cannot become too specialized until the market
is larger, having to be more diversified at present than is efficient
economically. This is one of the reasons why the level of productivity
is only two-thirds that of the American market for secondary industry
in general. In the report made by the Gordon Commission, two markets
were compared as follows:

This study finds that the United States market for products
of secondary industry is in physical terms some ‘18‘ to 19 times
as large as the Canadian, compared to a population difference of
about 10 to l, and an income difference of 15 to 1. . . . the study
suggests that there is a fair correlatiOn between the relative
size of the Canadian market and the proportion of it which is
supplied by imports. This supports the conclusion that when the
Canadian market is relatively large, Canadian costs tend to be
more competitive than when the market is relatively small.1

Trade with the' United States is in a balance favouring that country.
Canada is also connected by bonds of loyalty and trade agreements with
the United Kingdom and countries of the Commonwealth which bring in

goods from other countries to compete with those produced in Canada.

 

1Royal Commission on Canada's Economic Prospects; Final
Report, November 1957: (also called the Gordon Commission),
(Ottawa, Canada: The Queen's Printer, 1958), p. 235.

 

With reference to economic links a report on income and production

inCanada and the United States said:

. . . the United States exerts a powerful influence on the
economicdestiny of all countries throughout the world. For
Canada this impact is particularly strong and widespread.

. . . The overriding consideration is again in the extreme
openness of the Canadian economy. The inevitable consequence
of this world orientation is that impulses originating in the
United States are transmitted to this country bothindirectly
through its contacts with third countries and more tangibly
through it's direct and intimate links with the United States. ‘

Some of the advantages gained by the Canadian clothing manu-
facturer recently have included revisions and raising of tariffs on cloth-
ing imports creating an opportunity to compete more favorably in regard
to price with items from other countries. There has also been a change
in the attitude of the Canadian publications, especially newspapers,
who now give more promotion and publicity to the products of their
country's clothing industry. 7' . A great many of the magazines read in
-Canada, however, come from the United States. The following quotations
from the findings of a survey in Arts, Letters, and Sciences from 1949
to 1951 gives an indication of the competition that publications, other

than newspapers, face:

' Canadian magazines with much difficulty have achieved a
circulation of nearly forty-two millions a year as against an
'American circulation in Canada of oy'er eighty- six milliOns.
'Canada. . . is the only country of any size‘in'the world whose"
pe0ple read more foreign periodicals than they do periodicals
published in their own land, local newspapers excluded. '3

 

l1.. Brecher and S.. S.. Reisman. . "Income and Production in

' .Canada and the United States, " a special report published as part of
The Royal Commission on Canada' 5 Economic Prospects. (Ottawa,
Canada: The Queen's Printer, 1957), p. 3.

° zStyle, the Canadian equivalent of Women's Wear Daily, has been
active in promotion and publicity for theE Clothing Industry.

3Report of the Royal Commission on National Development in the
Arts, Letters and Sciences: 1949 to 1951.. Inner'quotation from a special
study made in connection with the larger report called "Present Day
Influences onCanadian Society, " (Ottawa, Canada: King's Printer, 1951),
p. 16.

The report goes on to comment:

' Cultural exchanges are excellent in themselves. They
widen the choice of the consumer and provide stimulating
competition for the producer. It cannot be denied, however,
that a vast and disproportionate amount of material coming
from a single alien source may stifle rather than stimulate
our own creative effort.1

In summarizing it's findings, the Gordon commission predicted a
fairly rapid increase would take place in clothing expenditures in
Canada, and further integration of the Canadian into the North American
economy, but with imports from other areas of the world continuing

to be attractive to Canadians. "7‘

Studies in the Fields of Sociology, Economics
and Clothing

 

 

Since this present study proposes to investigate certain types of
influence, much assistance was gained from a definitive investigation
of the nature of influence and the way in which influences may be trans-
mitted.3 Eilhu Katz and Paul Lasarsfeld conducted a survey for the
Columbia University Bureau of Applied Social Research to trace channels
of influence affecting marketing choices and other areas. They studied
a cross-sectional sample of 800 women in Decatur, Illinois, and their
findings, explaining the part played by pe0ple in the flow of mass com-

munications, are reported in the book entitled Personal Influence.

 

The method of impact analysis was used to investigate how ideas were

transmitted from media to opinion leaders and from them to the people

 

1Ihid., p. 18.

zDavid W.. Slater, “Canada's Imports, " The Royal Commission on
Canada's Economic Prospects, a Special report published as an
Appendix. (Ottawa, Canada: Queen's Printer, January 1957), pp. 105, 172.

 

 

.3Elihu.Katz and Paul F. Lazarsfeld. . Personal Influence
(Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1955).

 

with whom they came in contact. Results of the study gave insight into
the forces that create change of basic attitudes, aswell as the degree
of influence of these forces.

. Influences received through personal contact were found to be
more significant than those from mass media because they were more
direct and subject to control.1 The impact from magazines was found
to be closer to personal influence than the impact received from books,
and thus to be more effective. Magazines were the only formal media
mentioned frequently enough to treat statistically. 7‘ The findings showed
opinion leaders to be more exposed to mass media than the non-leaders,
and to be very like the people they influenced. (This is described as
a ”horizontal” rather than a “vertical" flow of influence). For example
women exerting fashion influence were from the same social and
economic levels as thoSe they influenced. In areas of fashion, leader-
ship was from those who were young and highly gregarious.

Three factors of differentiation were used: life cycle, social and
economic status, and gregariousness. The fashion leadership role,
when related to life-cycle, showed 48 per cent of the "girls" (single
and under thirty-five) to have influence.3 Interest in fashion was found
in 80 per cent of the younger group.‘ Regarding social and economic
status levels, advice was accepted from a Similar social group, with
women of high and medium levels having the greatest interest.5 When.

studied in relation to gregariousness, fashion leaders Showed a drop in

 

{123, p. 185.
@1334, p. 180.
31231;, p. 248.
4'.li_l_>_i_c_l_., p. 250.
5%, p. 265.

leadership at the high economic level, and the hypothesis was that
this was likely due to the feeling of this group that fashion discussion
is in poor taste. 1
Throughout the study “fashion" was credited with any influence
toward changes concerned with clothing or cosmetics, and was defined
as: "making the right choice at the right time. ”2 Two-thirds of the
women studied reported a fashion change resulting from personal
influence.3 1
Definition of the term "fashion" has proven confusing in many
studies. In an article by Bernard Barber and Lyle S. Lobel for

4

Social Forces, it is discussed in relation to being "over-generalized, ”

 

and "having too many referents" when used in describing social behaviour.
Fashion is defended as n_ot_ being irrational when considered in relation
to class structure, age-sex roles and the economic system. In a

study of "fashion copy" written for fashion magazines they reviewed

the social function of clothes in all societies as being utilitarian,
esthetic, and symbolic, and having mixed, latent or manifest character-
istics. For a definition of "fashion" and its meaning related to clothes;
they say:

Fashion in clothes has to do with the styles of. art, color,
silhouette, stuffs etc. that are socially prescribed and socially
accepted as appropriate for certain social roles, and especially
with the recurring changes in these styles.5

 

lIbid., p. 269.
2Ibid., p. 247.

3Ibid. P' 5147.

4'Class, Status, and Power. A Reader in Social Stratification
edited by Reinhard Bendix and Seymour Martin Lipset (Glencoe, 111.:
Free Press, 1957), (The article ”'Fashion' in Women's Clothes, and
the Social System" by Bernard Barber and Lyle S. Lobel, from Social
Forces, Vol. 31, December 1952, pp. 124-131), p. 324.

51bid., p. 325.

 

 

As a function of consumption, clothing is equated to class position,
even if this is not an intended or manifest function. Women with skill
in maximizing the number and quality of clothes within a givenbudget
by making their own, buying seconds or items at clearance prices can,
in this way, overcome differences in social equality and be part of the
upward mobility of society. 1

COpy dealing with fashions for college girls was found to be
directed almost entirely in favor of classics and casuals which were
described as: "the college girl's temporary but socially structured
removal from the need to display her class status; ..2 That fashion
leaders and models came frorri within the college girl group was the
interpretation made from the mention made of "college editors" and
"college boards" in some magazines. .

In summary Barber and Lobel refer to the "interdependence be-
tween fashion behaviour and the American economic system" since "at
all income levels but the very highest ones, women need to get the most
for their money so that they can maximize their claim to social class
position.3

As mentioned briefly in the procedure, some questions used in
the questionnaire were adapted from Mary Lou Rosencranz' study of
Clothing Interest‘ which found them to be significant in determining
areas in which clothing interest could_ be measured. By re-using these
questions it was possible to make the questionnaire for the present study

more valid, and also provided an opportunity to test the response of

 

'Ibid., p. 326.
zlbidutp. 33o.
3Ihic1., p. 331.

‘Mary Lou Rosencranz, "A Study of Interest in. Clothing Among
Selected Groups of Married and Unmarried Young Women",(unpublished
Master's 'thesis, Michigan State University (College) 1948).

10

another group. Using the critical ratio technique to test which items
on the questionnaire best measured clothing interest, she found the
most significant question to be: ”Which of these types of clothing do
you have in your wardrobe? " (followed by a list of sixteen types to be
checked). 1 The critical ratio for this was found to be 11.4 (with 2 or
more considered statistically significant at the 5 per cent level). Other
questions found to have high critical ratios pertained to: reading of
fashion ads (6. 9); recognition of fashion designers (6. 5); choice of a
magazine (6. 3); frequency of making clothes they couldn't buy (6. 2);
recognition of name brands (6. l); and when the wardrobe was planned
(5. 3).;

As the six groups measured were of various types, the instru-
ment was developed to be applicable for differences in age, occupation,
income, enviromnent, levels of education, activities and family respons-
ibilities. Home Economics groups; girls under 25 years of age;
students; urban environments; and high income were the primary
factors found significantly relevant to clothing interest. Secondary
factors (between the 0.02 and 0. 05 level of Chi Square) were: high level
of education; single marital status; no children; and group membership.3 ‘

Margaret Warning in a study of Social Class and Clothing Behaviour
found the number of garments, the individual selecting them, and the
type of garment to be not important facts in themselves, but indicative
of the values and attitudes responsible for the similarities between

social classes.‘

 

11pm., p. 160.
zIhid., pp. 145-147.
31bid.. pp. 33-39.

‘Margaret Warning, "The Implications of Social Class for Cloth-
ing Behaviour, "(unpublished Doctoral thesis, Michigan State University,
1956), p. 126.

11

Other studies made in the field of Home Economics give inform—
ation about how various groups have reacted to or depended upon influ-
ence either of persons or mass media. In summary, Silverman1 found
over two-thirds of the 18-year-olds accepted responsibility for clothing
buying, but over three-quarters of the older girls sought theirmother's
advice. . Leask reported that mother's advice was sought seven out of
-eleven times, and_that there was increasing freedom of choice as the
students approached their senior year. . In order of importance, influents
on choice were newspaper advertisements, displays in store windows,
parental income, clothes worn by classmates and whethertheir clothing
was paid for by themselves or their parents. . In general the shopping
independence varied inversely with the price of the garment, and 88 per
cent purchased the majority of their apparel asiready-to-wear. 2 Reid3
found 47 per cent of her group usually read fashion magazines, and 61
.per cent earned all or part of their spending money. . In Rosner's study4
the influence of parents affected two-thirds of the sample, and clothing
ads and best girl friends' ideas influenced over 50 percent. aMagazine
ads and articles also affected them. Barr's findings were that "advertis—

ing seems to be more potent as a source of fashion ideas than as a direct

 

lSylvia S.. Silverman, "Clothing and Appearance, Their Psycho-
logical Implications for Teen-Aged Girls, " Contributions to Education,
No. 912,. (New York: Bureau of Publication, Teacher's College, Columbia
University, 1945), p. 59.

 

zGrace J. Leask, "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying
_ Practices of One Hundred Girls of West Division High School, Milwaukee,
Wisconsin, " (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University,
1953), pp. 46, 54.

.3Doris Jean Reid, "A Study of Clothing Practices of Urban High
School Seniors, " (unpublished Master's thesis, Virginia Polytechnic
Institute, Blacksburg, 1951), p. 26.

' 4Anne L.. Rosner, "A Survey of the ClothingPreferences and Buying
Practices of Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Ill. (unpublished
Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1954), pp. 65-68.

12

stimulus to buying. "1

A study of the buying practices of college girls was made by Engenz
which found that 25 per cent of the skirts, some formals. andschool
dresses were made by the students; most of those who sewed had
learned to sew at home.3 Seventy-five per cent shopped with mother,
and 40 per cent with girl friends. Two-thirds of the winter coats
bought in this study had been purchased on a sale.‘ That girls express-
ing greater interest in clothes by reading were also knowledgeable of

5 investigation into

fashion trends, was one of the findings in Warden's
the desires and goals for college women. Those with greatest interest
were non-sorority girls in Liberal Arts.6

An amount of $182. 55 was given as the average spent per year by

the students studied by Edelman in 1940.7 A survey conducted by the

 

Gilbert Youth Survey for Seventeen magazine in the fall of 1959found the
average spent by a college girl in the United States for her freshman

wardrobe was $354. 49, and said the students "do their biggest clothes

 

lEstelle D. Barr, "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Motivation, "
Archives of Psychology, No. 171 (New Yorlc Columbia University,
1934). p. 99.

zB-lo'ssom C.. Engen, "BuyingPractices for Specified Apparel
Items of 50 College Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan
State University, 1957).

 

311314., p. 43.
‘Ibid., p. 39.

5Jessie A. Warden, "Some Desires and Goals for Clothing of
College Women" (Doctoral thesis, Southern Illinois University, 1957).

6Warden, ibid. --abstract in Journal of Home Economics ,
March 1957, p. 233.

7Reba I. Edelman, "Trends in the College Wardrobe" (unpublished
Master's thesis, Drexel Institute of Technology, 1940); abstract in
Journal of Home Economics, Vol. 32, May 1940, p.9310.

 

l3

stockpiling in preparation for their first year college. "1 This pro-
vides an interesting field of study for those wishing to know what, why,

and how they buy.

 

‘ 4 _ ‘."The College Freewan Stony" published by.Seventeen
magazine, 1960, pp. 3, 4.

 

CHAPTER III
PROCEDURE

This study may be divided into two parts; 1, the investigation of
economic practices and background of freshmen students; and 2, the
exploration of the possible social influences which may haveaffected

their choices .

Instruments

 

An inventory and a questionnaire were decided upon as the-means
of acquiring the desired information. These forms were distributed
to the sample at the end of the academic year, April 1960.

The detailed inventory listed all types of clothing outerwear.
The sample was asked to describe only those items which had been pur-
chased or-made for college wear during the past year and to indicate
the number of items bought; the type of fiber and the fabric of which
they were made; the brand name of the item(.if known); and the cost.
Two columns for costs enabled the price paid for ready-to-wear to be
distinguished from that paid for fabric. . Articles that had been pur-
chased on sale were to be marked with an "S", and a check mark and
an "x" were used to indicate an item considered to be a good buy or a
poor one. . (For full details of the inventory and questionnaire see the
Appendix.)

A questionnaire was selected as a means of obtaining information
about the background of the student; details of her previous training in

clothing construction and selection; her reasons for sewing; the number

14

15

of articles she read on fashion changes in magazines and newspapers;
the persons who helped her choose her college clothes; her choice
and knowledge of name brands; where she shopped; and what she bought.
Some questions were based on those given in other studies but adapted
to the present group. 1 After consideration, it was decided notto use
an interview with part of the group, since students living in the same
residence and attending classes together would undoubtedly discuss
the questions.

. Part of the questionnaire was pre-tested on a group of freshmen
students at Michigan State University, omitting the inventory'which had

been used in other surveys and needed only to be brought up to date.

Selection of the Sample

 

Students enrolled in the first year of a Degree course in Home
Economics and those taking a one-year Diploma course in Homemaking
were the p0pulation of this study. The total group numbered eighty-
eight. The fifty-three Degree course students and the thirty-five
members of the Diploma class were in the same age group but differed
in academic attainment and social background. However, all were
taking Home Economics courses, though of different types, and all had
prepared their clothing wardrobes for the classroom and social activi-
ties of a campus life.

The college where these students were studying is located in
Guelph, Ontario, about 60 miles west of Toronto. . Macdonald Institute

is part of the Ontario Agricultural College campus. . In 1959-60 this

 

1For example question 19 was adapted from one which had been
used in Mary Lou Rosencranz's "Study of Interest in. Clothing Among
Selected Groups of Married and Unmarried Young Women" (unpublished
Master's thesis, Michigan State University, (College), 1948).

16

college had the highest number of students enrolled full time in Home

Economics and on the same basis was the fourth largest in. Canada. 1

Stati stical T ec hnique

 

Statistical techniques were useful in the analysis of certain re-
lationships existing in the findings and aided in obtaining a more com-
plete interpretation of the data. . According to Margaret J. Hagood in

Statistics for Sociologists: "When a study utilizes only the descriptive

 

function of statistics its validity is not dependent upon (the) number of
cases studied or upon method of sampling. "2
. Chi Square was used to test the significance of difference between
the distribution expected and the distribution actually observed, this
being the sampling distribution of the sums of independent squares.
It was computed by summing the squares of the deviations of the observed
from the expected frequencies for each cell, divided by the expected
frequency for that cell.3 The degree of freedom for the variables
compared in this study was one. Reading of Chi Square values was done
from a table,‘ and only variables of less than 0. 05 were considered

significant, although those below the 0. 20 level were considered to have

differenc e s approaching significanc e .

 

1"Fall Enrollment in Universities and colleges, 1959" Dominion
Bureau of Statistics, Catalog Number 81-204 (Ottawa, Canada: Queen's
Printer, March 1960), Table I, p. 10; Table II, pp. 12-17.

2Margaret J. Hagood, Statistics for Sociologists (New York: Henry
Holt and Co. , 1947), p. 498. '

.31bid., pp. 504-505
‘lbid., Table 13,. Appendix, p. 904.

 

CHAPTER IV

DESCRIPTION OF THE SAMPLE

The questionnaire was given to a group of eighty- eight students
registered in the first year Degree course and the one-year Diploma
course at Macdonald Institute, a Home Economics College which is
part of the Ontario Agricultural College located in Guelph, Ontario.
The Degree group numbered fifty-three and the Diploma group thirty-
five.

The fifty-three students in the Degree group comprised the larg—
est portion of the sample. They had successfully completed five
grades of high school from Grades IX to XIII in the Ontario education
system and had obtained their Senior MatriculationCertificate for
University entrance. The Degree course at Macdonald Institute is a
four-year program leading to the degree of Bachelor of Household
Science, granted by the University of Toronto. Members of the Degree
class have in the past tended to come from small towns or rural areas.
Their socio-economic background is middle-middle and lower-middle

according to the classifications in Warner's scale. 1

Their fathers in
the main are professional men, white collar workers, and farm I
owners.

The thirty-five students that will be called the Diploma class in
this study were taking a one-year program in homemaking at Macdonald

Institute. The course offers a diploma, with no professional standing,

 

lLloyd Warner, Marchia Meeker and Kenneth Eells, Social Class
in America (Chicago: Science Research Associates, 1949), p. 62.

 

 

17

18

to its graduates. Although preference is given to girls from rural
areas, most of the girls taking the course in the past few years have
come from cities. . About 70 per cent of the students are from families
of the upper-middle and middle-middle social and economic level and
their fathers hold professional or managerial positions.

Many of the students who take the Diploma course are. academically
poor or non-achievers. . Although they have Spent as many years or more
at schools than have the Degree class members, it has taken longer
for them to complete requirements for the various grade levels in
High School. Quite a few have attended private schools where a more
varied program is available, but these schools do not have a course of
studies that is under the supervision of the Ontario Department of
Education. The limitation imposed by their academic standing usually
makes it impossible for them to enroll in a university degree
course, but in taking the one-year Diploma course, they have an oppor-
tunity to be part of campps activities.

. Socially the Diploma group are, perhaps, more‘mature than the
Degree freshmen, but emotionally they are often less mature than their
ages would suggest. a After completion of the course, 10 to 15 per cent
of them will probably be involved in professional occupations such as
nursing or teaching, the remainder in clerical or stenographic work or
assisting in food or clothing services.

. In considering their habits as purchasers of clothing the twogroups
will be combined in a single unit, but in order to be of value in consider—
ing the type of instruction best suited to each group in the clothing
curriculum field, one class will be compared to the other. A descrip-

tion of the similarities and differences of the two groups follows.

19

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

Age and Academic Attainment

 

The majority of the total group (54. 5 per cent) were between nine.-
teen and twenty years of age, with 35. 3 per cent between seventeen and
eighteen, and 10. 2 per cent twenty-one years or over. . The average age
of the Diploma student was 20 and the Degree student 19. . Some of the
older ones had worked or taught in the year preceding the study; however,
most of the group (87. 5 per cent) had been students. - Entrance require-
ments for the Degree course normally take five years of high school
beyond grade eight for Ontario students. . A nineteen-year-old freshman
has therefore taken schooling in the standard amount of time. . Entrance
requirements for the Diploma course are not as extensive and for this
group required only two completed years of high school and a. minimum
age of seventeen years. Of the Diploma students in this study, 17 per
cent had grade X standing, 37 per cent completed grade XI, and 37
per cent had grade XII which is the level for Junior Matriculation.

Only 9 per cent had completed grade XIII, the Senior Matriculation
level in the Ontario Department of Education. These persons are the

. . . 1
exception to the usual academic attainment of the group.

Residence

 

Similar to the organization of the Land Grant Colleges of the United
States after which it was patterned, the Ontario Agricultural College,

directed by the Ontario Department of Agriculture, was designed to

 

1When tested with the American. Council of EducationPsychological
Examination for High School Level, these Diploma students would be
scored at a Grade XII or over level. . However, since the test is not valid
for Canadian students using the prescribed American norms, the levels
have been equated through the testing of about 1, 000 students. The
Diploma class in this study had an average high school level of 11. 85,
slightly higher than the usual 11. 6 average for the past classes.

20

provide educational facilities with preference for students from rural
areas. This study showed that in 1960, 56 per cent. of the girls came
from urban areas. . Of the whole group only 19.4 per cent werejfrom
farms, 24 per cent from a small town, 21.. 6 per cent from a small
city and 33 per cent from a large city. . In further discussion the farm
and small towns will be considered as rural areas and the small and
large cities as urban areas. Twenty per cent more Diploma students
than Degree students were from small or large cities. The Diploma
group also included three members from countries outside Canada.

Two were from~ Trinidad and one from Hong Kong.

Number in the Family

 

As a whole the group members were from families who had an
average of 2. 8 children. The Diploma students were from slightly
larger families (3. 1 children) than the Degree group (2.7 children).

.. Eight of the total were an "only child, " twenty- six had more than three
brothers and/or sisters, and thirty were the eldest in the family.
Twenty-seven per cent of the girls had older sisters, 73 per cent
were the eldest daughter, and 36 per cent were the only girls in the

family.

. Sources of Income

 

Money for purchasing of college clothing came from three main
sources. These were: (1) family funds, (2) a combination,I of family
funds and the student's own earnings, and (3) income earned entirely
by the students. . Over half (56 per cent) stated as the source of their
clothing income an amount provided by the family plus earnings of their
own. This gave them a chance to purchase items considered "extras" by

their families. Many students reported being able to "buy what was

21

needed" from a fund made up of earnings from summer jobs, savings,
bursaries, scholarships, matured insurance policies, and gifts, as
well as amounts contributed by parents in the form of a lump sum or
clothing allowance. One-third of the sample stated that the entire
amount spent on clothing was earned by themselves. Most of this was
obtained through summer jobs. Those stating that the entire amount
was provided by their families amount to 11.4 per cent. . Little dif_
.ference was noted in income sources between the Diploma and Degree

groups.
Budgets

Budgets or plans relating needed items to the amount available
for expenditure were mentioned by 17 per cent; only 4. 5 per cent gave
no indication of how they decided upon the amount they were to Spend
on college clothes. The greatest number (78. 5 per cent) drew from a
fund that was either a set amount or one that could be augmented if
necessary. Less than 10 per cent indicated that they had experienced

difficulty obtaining the needed amount.

. Expenditur e s

 

The average amount spent for a college wardrobe by the group
studied was found to be $293. 42. Calculations were based on
$22., 594. 00 spent by the seventy-seven persons who completed the in-
ventory part of the questionnaire effectively. This total included costs
for all items of clothing outerwear except stockings which were bought
for college wear within the last year. The average spent by the Degree
students was $288. 23, figured from fifty-one complete inventories;
individual expenditures ranged from $89. 00 to $760. 00. Only twenty-

six members of the Diploma class gave complete costs for wardrobe

22

items. .Of the total of $7, 792 spent by these persons, the average
was $299. 69 with the range in individual expenditures from $50 to
$786. The Diploma students therefore appear to have spent more
for college clothing, even though they are in residence for only one
year.

The average wardrobe cost was compared with a pilot study made
of the previous Degree class. It was found that the 1960 group spent
an average of $16. 98 more per wardrobe than did a similar group in
1959. Since many social and economic factors could have influenced
this increase, further study would be necessary before arriving at a
predictable yearly average. A study made for the Research Depart-

ment of Seventeen magazine in September-October of 1959 found the

 

average spent on wearing apparel for each of the 1, 964 students surveyed
in the United States was $354. 49. 1 This, however, included all clothing
costs, whereas the Macdonald Institute inventories were of clothing
outerwear only and did not include the cost of stockings and socks.

. In regard to the geographical area in which many of the students
reside, information was obtained from a 1957 survey by the Dominion
Bureau of Statistics which investigated the average yearly amount Spent
on clothing by families in various cities across Canada.2 Residents in
the Kitchener-Waterloo city area located about fifteen miles from Guelph
were found to spend less for clothing than residents in all Canadian
cities studied, an average per family of $372.. 00 per year. . The amount
was $126. 00 less than the amount Spent by the top spending area.

The city of Toronto ranked fourth highest, with families there spending

 

1"The College Freshman Story" published by the Research Depart-
ment of Seventeen Magazine, COpyright 1960 by Triangle Publications,
Inc.

 

zDominion Bureau of Statistics Survey of Nine Canadian Cities,
1957, reported in Style, December 30, 1959.

23

$428. 00 per year. For the whole study the average family size was
given as 3.4, the average family's annual expenditure was $4, 830,
and there was a 9 per cent average of over-all expenditure allotted to
clothing.

The classroom wear chosen by the Macdonald Institute students
is fairly casual with most of the students choosing skirts, sweaters
and blouses rather than dresses. . Socks and flat-heeled shoes are more
generally worn than hose and "heels. " All first year students live on
campus and this tends to keep classroom clothes at an informal level.

Clothes for social occasions are fairly dressy.

. EXPERIENCE AND INTEREST IN CLOTHING

Students enrolled in a course in Home Economics could be
expected to have an interest in clothing and, perhaps, a previous
knowledge of clothing construction and selection exceeding that of
others in their age group. The ways in which this sample indicated
previous clothing experience or interest will be considered on the basis
of the whole group, mentioning the differences between the two classes,

i. e.» Degree and Diploma, only when they show a marked dissimilarity.

Types of Clothing Experience

 

Of the total group, 78 per cent indicated they sewed for them-
selves before coming to college. To determine where their sewing
experience and instruction had been obtained, they were first questioned
as to where they had learned {0 sew. . Over half of the Degree group
(60.4 per cent) stated they had learned to sew at home. However, since
only 22. 9 per cent of the Diploma class members had learned in this
environment, the average for both groups was 45. 5 per cent. . "Mother"

was named as an instructor by 45. 5 per cent of the students; and 20. 5

24

per cent considered they were partially self—taught, or had learned
through the experience of sewing on their own.

Among those who had learned to sew at school, 13. 6 per cent
had taken only one year of instruction. . From two to three years of
sewing classes had been taken by 25 per cent, with the largest group
(43. 3 per cent) composed of those who had from four to eight years of
clothing construction. . In evaluating the amount of instruction in cloth-
ing received in school, persons who had taken one or two years were
considered to have Spent less time in actual sewing than those taking
the same number of years in higher grades. . A total of 18. 2 per cent
had not taken any sewing instruction at school.

Fewer students in the Diploma class than in the Degree group had
taken 4-H clothing projects or Singer Sewing courses outside of school
instruction. Of the whole group 8 per cent had taken one year of 4-H
clothing, 6 per cent had had more than a year, and 9 per cent had
participated in various projects for four to six years. . Classes ranging
in length from two weeks to two months had been taken at Singer: Sewing
Centers by 8 per cent of the sample.

The amount of time Spent previously in the field of clothing se-
lection was much less than that spent in actual construction. The
Diploma students had. received more training than the Degree students,
but of the whole group only 29 students or 33 per cent had received any

instruction in selection.

Cost of Materials for Clothing Construction

 

An average of $37. 72 per member had been spent by the sample
in the past year for material to make the clothing included in their
college wardrobes, The Degree students spent more than did the Diploma

students, an average of $40. 32 as compared with $33. 00 Spent by the

25

latter. The individual investment in material ranged from nothing to

an amount of $169. 00.

Reasons for Sewing

 

The students were asked in the questionnaire to rank in order of
importance to them the reasons why they sewed for themselves. The
greatest number ranked the opportunity to obtain more clothes for the
same amount of money as their primary reason. . Next highest was the
group who liked to sew, then those who sought to obtain a better fit.
Those who felt sewing their own clothes gave them a greater choice
of fabrics and colors were fourth, and the Opportunity to choose the
style they wished was the fifth reason. Being able to make their own
alterations or obtaining better quality workmanship-were not regarded
as important reasons for making their own clothes by these students

(See TABLE 1).

Further Knowledge Desired

 

To ascertain what information would be most helpful in making
future clothing decisions, the students were asked to rate the various
fields. The results showed that their greatest interest was first, in
learning more about choosing becoming styles; and second, in learning
how to co-ordinate their wardrobes. Advanced construction techniques
rated third in importance followed by a wish to learn more about fitting.
A knowledge of Speed techniques in construction was next in order and
of equal rating at the end of the list came the number who wanted to
know more about ready-to-wear and of fabric buymanship. Degree
students were most interested in style choice and co-ordination and the
Diploma group led in interest in fitting and speed techniques. . (See

TABLE II) .

26

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

mm mm we NV : mH . cm mm was hm «m we. 40 Pm H.309
2 NH m; S b 0 OH q me 3 ma MA a: 2 UHEH
NH 2 m: a: w v o w Na 3 a: a; NH mm pcooom
m m on e e m e e S 3 MN om mm mm swarm
3508
mm m we. 5 mm o em 0 om H: em on hm om H308
3 m ON 5 o m mo m : v a; m m m p.338
0 m : w. m N “L m “I m a: m S o pcooom
o o S o 3 v m H a; m om OH Hm : umuwh
mucopdum maoamfifl
hm om we mm. NH 0 em a; me mm. Hm em om. Fm 1308
2 h m; CH o m : o 2 n. mm m OH; OH @353.
ma w mm Na d N o m : o S o S o vacuum
0 m o m N a a m on S S on em 2 sperm
wpcopdum moumefl
0& .02 If O5 002 O5 002 05 .02 AR 002 Okv 002 0% 002
QEmcmFfluoa 0:an .udoHoO mqoflduefi< - moaum mo ”Fm 30m 3 334 moauoHU 0.82

Hon—pom cowoau H033 refine/H 0H. eumono new $5 neuuom 9.5m 0H

III I? I
1'

 

OZH3Mm dorm mZOmanmm .mO OZHB<M .HZMQDHm
H Himmjwhr

27

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MN M: 0m is , me ow. Ho vm ow is ,. Hm hNt NN 4N 18.08
.c. o NN m; : OH m: a: m; E m h w h pHEH
o m ON 2 a: a; m; . S m: S m N. o w pcooom
m N. w Ni 2 a: vN HN : OH ma 2 OH 0 “warm
mucopdum Sass
«N o ow «A «N CH Hm M: we NH oN OH 04 1: 130B
0 N a; m N; 0 ON C.. s: m o N c N PEAR
: v S o m H S o : o m m NH 0 Unouom
o m m m o m n: m NH 0 a: m NH 0 «mpg
mucopdpm MEOHQNQ
M: o hm om mm om we om Nm bN Nm ha HN OH H.308
w v 0N “I w w NH 9 MN NH 0 m : m whiz.
N A NN NH mN NH HN : HN : w w as N pcooom
w w w v mN NH 0m x: w m. ma w o m “warm
mucopdum ooumoQ
O5 .02 ORV 002 05 002 0% .02 ORV .02 O5 .02 ORV 002
@3955
ind. new? agenda Gofimfipho mQTSm waited modvflhfloob Gown—05.3380 Cofluduumcoo
toumwwvmom 13am 039mm :00 Maneuver? tom mo mewoAU wcfifih poocs>p< poomm aw owmmm

 

 

FmOBU<hmHH<m mmOz HmOQO<3 M3332 OH.
WQDBm .mO mQAHHh ZH HMHMHBZH HZMQDHM .mO OZHH<m A<UHMHEDZ

HH Rimmed.

28

Influence of Fashion Publications and Mass Media

 

Those interested in reading about fashion changes inmagazines
and neWSpaper articles were divided evenly into the group who read
this information "often" and those who read such articles only
"sometimes. " Ten per cent indicated that they "seldom" read
fashion news.

. The number of fashion magazines read ranged from none to nine,
with 49 per cent reading up to three magazines, 37 per cent reading
from four to six, and 11 per cent from seven to nine. . The average

number read was three. . Seventeen magazine was the most widely read,

 

and was listed by 77 per cent of the group. Next in order were Vogue
(read by 63. 6 per cent)1 and Glamour (incorporating Charm) read by

55 per cent. . McCalls and Mademoiselle were named by 39 per cent

 

and 28 per cent respectively. . Little reference was made to Canadian
fashion articles in newspapers or“ magazines.
The students stated that the magazines that gave them most help

in choosing their collegewwardrobes were Seventeen, 36 per cent, Vogue

 

(Pattern Book and Magazine) 19 per cent, Glamour (incorporating

Charm) 16 per cent and Mademoiselle 11 per cent. . Compared to a

 

Similar study of American college students, this Canadian group

appears to read more fashion magazines. 7' (See TABLE III)

Per 8 onal Influenc e

 

Since personal influence is a widerand more Significant source of

direction in making fashion choices, the group was asked to indicate

 

‘ lStudents when listing magazines read did not differentiate be-
tween Vogue Magazine and Vogue'Pattern Book.

 

.z"The College Freshman Story, " 3p. cit. , pp. 7-8.

29

TABLE .III

FASHION MAGAZINE POPULARITY AS INDICATED BY
CANADIAN AND AMERICAN STUDENT RATINGS

 

 

 

 

Canadian ~ American
Magazines Read During The Magazines Read Most
Past Year Regularly by American

High School Seniorsl
Per Cent Per Cent
Seventeen .77. 3 Seventeen 78. 6
Vogue3 65. 9 Mademoiselle 45. 2
Glamour (and Charm) 54. 5 Glamour 8. 2
McCall's 38. 6 Vogue 3. 8
Mademoiselle 28 . 4 Charm 3. 7
(Size of sample, 88) Harper's Bazaar 1. 1

(Size of sample, 1, 964)

 

Magazines Rated "Most Helpful" Magazines Rated "Very Helpful
in Choosing College Wardrobe in Selecting College
Wardrobez
Per Cent Per Cent

Seventeen 36. 4 Seventeen 53. 5

Vogue3 19. 3 Mademoiselle 30. 5
Glamour and Charm 15. 9 Charm 5. 2
Mademoiselle 6. 8 Vogue 5. 2

(Size of sample, 88) Glamour 3. 1

(Size of sample, 1, 964)

 

—v— vv

1"The College Freshman Story" Seventeen (Triangle Publications,
September-October, 1959),. pp. 7-8.

zmaid.

 

 

.3See previous explanation regarding Vogue magazines.

30

who had given them information about what kinds of clothing they
would need for wear on campus. It was found that 65 per cent of the
groupiskeil for advice, 1 with three times more Degree students than
Diploma class members requesting assistance. Forty-four per cent
of the group asked students already attending Macdonald Institute
while 10 per cent talked with someone from another campus. -Advice
from graduates of the college was sought by 15 per cent of the students.
. In addition to information found on their own initiative, advice
offered to the Degree students by their "Soph Sisters" was found
useful by eleven freshmen. The girls who had older sisters named
them as influential in seven cases. ~ A little advice was obtained

from classmates, store clerks, and "mother."

Clothing Interest

 

As a group these young women indicated that they had taken
an interest in choosing their own clothes at an early age. Before
attending high school 34 per cent had wanted to choose their own clothes,
and 30 per cent developed this interest during their early high school
years. A group of 36 per cent stated they had more recently become.
interested in choosing their clothing. . Ninety-three per cent of the
students felt that their parents had encouraged them to choose clothing
on their own initiative. '

. The questionnaire then asked how the students would proceed in
the purchasing of a. major item of clothing such as a coat or suit.
Their replies indicated that 36 per cent of them would not buy such
an item without consulting anyone, 53 per cent would "sometimes"

buy without consultation, and 6 per cent indicated that they would

 

1This correlates with the "about two-thirds" reported having
received personal influence in fashion in the Personal Influence study
by Katz and--Lazarsfeld, 92: (:13: , p. 247.

 

31

make their own decisions on such a purchase. Five per cent did not
reply to this question.

. In determining whether or not they chose an item of clothing
from an advertisement in a paper or a magazine and then shOpped
for it, 72 per cent said they did this "sometimes, " 22 per cent
"never" followed this procedure, only 3 per cent said they "always"
did, and 3 per cent gave no reply.

Forty-four per cent of the group "sometimes" showed a
dependence on the style choices of their friends, leading to the dupli—
cation of items for their own wardrobe. (Some of the girls added
that they would do this only if the item was also becoming to
them.) Only 3 per cent said they followed their friend's choices
"always, ." and an independent 44 per cent said they never followed

that practice.

CHAPTER V

(

BUYING PRACTICES AND PREFERENCES
OF THE GROUP

When Items Were Planned or Bought

 

The decisions made regarding what items would be needed for
college wear began for the majority during the year preceding
registration. .As far back as a year before college 45. 5 per cent
began to plan their wardrobes. Eighteen and two-tenths per cent
had planned theirs by the end of June and 30. 7 per cent waited until
the month before registration. A small group, comprising 5. 6 per
cent did not answer the question.

. After arriving on campus 6. 8 per cent bought "many" clothes,
45. 5 per cent bought "some, " but 47. 7 per cent considered they had
bought only a "few" items. Some purchasing of fabric for clothing

construction projects was necessary for all students.
Where Items Were Purchased

Most of the items were purchased either in a large city depart-
ment store or in a Specialty store. Chain Department stores and
stores in the United States were a secondary source; and a few

persons bought throughmail order houses. ~ (See TABLE IV.)

Types of Items Purchased in. Each Kind of Store

In the large city department stores, blouses, sweaters, skirts,
shoes, coats, dresses, jackets, uniforms, fabrics, and accessories

were purchased in that order of frequency. In Toronto and smaller

32

33

TABLE IV

STORE PREFERENCE AS INDICATED BY
F RESHMEN PA TRONAGE

 

 

Number Per Cent of

Type Of Store shopping There - Total Group

 

Large City Department

Store 64 72. 7
Specialty Store 62 70. 5
Chain Department Store 30 I 34. 1
Stores in the United

States 29 ' 33. 0
Mail Order 3 3. 4

 

cities inOntario the T.. Eaton Company, Simpson's, Morganis
and the branch stores of each were where most shopping had been
done by the students.

At the specialty stores the items most popular were skirts,
dresses, and sweaters, followed by blouses and shoes.

Sweaters, then hosiery and skirts were items bought most
often at chain department stores. . Some shoes, dresses, and fabrics

were also listed.

Shopping Outside Canada

 

For thos.6 who did shop beyond the Canadian border, the most
frequently purchased items were shoes and dresses. Sportswear,
. blouses and skirts werepopular purchases and coats and sweaters
' were bought by a few.

. Thirty-three per cent of the students shepped in stores in the
United States. . Detroit and Buffalo, two cities close to the Ontario

34

border, were where most of the group did their shOpping. Large
department stores in these two cities and in further distant centers
of New York, Boston, Cleveland, and Chicago were named. Some
shopping was done in Specialty and chain stores in the bordering

cities.

Preference in Shopping Companions

 

Mother was the most frequent choice of a companion for a
shopping trip and accompanied 54. 5 per cent of the group. Friends
were the next most favoured, chosen by 40. 9 per cent. . About 15
per cent of the girls shopped with their sisters, and 37. 5 per cent
preferred to shop alone. Some mentioned two or more favorite

' ShOpping companions.

Fibers, Fabrics, and Brands: Preferred
I for College Clothes

 

 

Fibers and Fabrics: Wool was liked best by 82 out of 88 students,

 

or a total of 93. 2 per cent of the group. Tweeds, fine woolens, wor-
steds, bulky or shag finishes, flannels, mohair fabrics, cashmere
blends, camel hair and wool blends, and wool jersey were the preference
for winter wear on campus.

. Cotton, the next most popular fiber, ranked far below wool and
was‘mentioned by only 18. 2 per cent of the students. . Cotton fabrics
with drip-dry finishes, cotton and Dacron blends, and corduroy were
the types preferred.

. Orlon was mentioned by 12. 5 per cent and silk by 8. 0 per cent.
A few listed Terylene,l Nylon, and Banlon. . Only one person mentioned

Arnel.

 

lTrade name for a Canadian-made polyester fiber, similar to
Dacron and-Kodel.

35

Purchasing Practices

 

Types and Numbers of Items Selected for College Wardrobes:

 

When totals were averaged for the entire group, each person
was found to have added to her wardrobe in the past year nearly four
pairs of shoes, three sweaters, and an average of two and one-half
each of blouses, Sports clothes items, . skirts, and jumpers or co-
ordinates. . Slightly more than two coats or jackets were bought,
almost two dresses for more formal occasions, about one and one-
half dresses for less formal wear, slightly more than one uniform per
person, and almost one article for dormitory wear. . About one-half

of the group purchased new snow boots or overshoes.

Items Constructed

 

Of these garments 58 per cent of the skirts, jumpers, and co-
ordinates were made rather than purchased as ready-to-wear, as
well as 50 per cent of the informal dresses, 46 per cent of the formal
and semi-formal dresses; 20 per cent of the Sports clothes; and 13
per cent of the blouses. - A total of 18. 34 per cent of the total items
added within the past year had been made, or when evaluated on the

total number of items that could have either been made or purchased

 

as ready to wear, the figure is increased to 24 per cent. . (See TABLE V.)

Items Purchased on Sale

 

Coats were the items most frequently purchased on sale (17
per cent) with 15 per cent of the sweaters, 12 per cent of the more
formal dresses, 11 per cent of the informal dresses, and 9 per cent
of the skirts purchased at a reduction. On the basis of 2, 061 total
items listed, 151 or 7 per cent were bought at Sale prices. . (See

TABLE VI.)

36

TABLE V

NUMBER AND PERCENTAGE OF GARMENTS MADE COMPARED TO
NUMBER AND PERCENTAGE OF READY-TO-WEAR PURCHASES

 

 

Garments Made Ready-to-Wearé_

 

 

 

Rank>=< Type of Article #Made %Made #Bought %Bought
1 Dresses, basic 24 68.6 - 14 31.4
2 Dresses, afternoon 19 63.3 11 36.7
3 Skirts, straight 93 62. 0 57 38. 0
4 Formals, full length 18 54. 5 15 45. 5
5 Dresses, tailored 12 52. 2 ll 47. 8
6 Dresses, party and date 19 50. 0 2 19 50. 0
6 Jumpers 9 50. 0 9 50. 0
8 Formals, short 19 44. 2 24 55. 8
9 Co-ordinates 13 43. 3 17 56. 7

10 Dress with jacket 6 37. 5 10 62. 5

11 Dresses, cocktail 16 31.1 26 68. 9

12 Suits 9 29. 0 22 71. 0

13 Housecoats ll 28. 9 27 71.1

14 Shorts, Bermuda 22 27. 2 59 72.8

Jamaica

Gym
15 Slacks, Slims, etc. 22 25.6 64 74.4
16 Skirts; pleated, flared 8 22. 9 27 77.1

 

3':

[Order based on percentages of garments made.

vmdcflcou

. - . , .3ng one 3mm
Go Ewdoa song: mlflumflnfim two. ends on are meowhm Headweu as ”Emu—03 macaw udoartoTcnpmoH Ho $58.92

 

 

 

 

m a.
an m cm - 2 a .NN w ed m mm possah so sonata “manna S
N N mm - N TN 2 m .3 4 mm 38836: 3
ON e mm - m -o .3 S m .2 a. an roses .8 Essa seasons 3
cm a. a2 . om me: e o6... 2.. mm serum .380 s35? E
om a. ma. .. N. a .3. a: m .3 0 Ne opossum :sfiooo 2
o... m em - Na N .3. S o.» m Na. 29% unosnssm Heston Na

.. mN - e ..... m .m N am Seesaw pas noose. 333m 2
- mN - N ..... o o mm noonosgo pas nooom S
.. a: .. m ttttt 96 w Hm ED .mSEdU ”moofiw manomm w
m N S .. N NNN NN o o 5 storm w
E m .N - a. enN NN m .N N em nsopsoaoe .nfinm "aroma, a
- ma - m T... N m .m m so seasoned: e
whowmod pad
- 2 - m ..... o o N: nwsonao rpm .32.... ustorm m
E N S - m o.No me or: m: o2 Bassoon “sound a.
3003 Amddww
- mN - e ..... aim e 2; one 883: .nnosn ”noonm m
m N a - N m .2 .N m .N. 3 NS espouse msomeone N
Na 8 we MNn on mm m 4 a. o .a N 3N sponsosw a
epeE was”: Emdom was”: he .02 he .02 *popp< 0&8 idem
pew Swarm umoo swag Odom :0 qudom .3552

 

Hmommmafl? MOHAAOU MOh QMHUHAMW mZMHH

H> m4m<fi

38

 

 

 

 

NH Om - e a.» H a.» a 3 reasons. mm

a: - m Om - 2 .82 O ONH N 2 Baroda. fins someone an
as om - a. an a Oi N S aspaaotam .sasou N...
mH .. m ON .. N. o.om o o O NH enough. om
Om - NH OO - a 7: N 5.: N Na noose 2N3 asosou ON
red .md o.m H o .m H wH oHpnmh huh no Huh 8300 ON
ON - m Om - O N .N... NH O O N espouse “hormone ON
--..- mN-m --- .. NOH N ON shamanism ON
mN - m m... - S N .2. 2 as N ON room oossapsoou 3..
N - m ON - a N .3 OH O O ON .8928? .aonnoan ON
ON - OH mN - N N. .O N O O ON ssossam noonom mansion“ massuage ON
Os. - N. m: - Na O.ON O if m 8 seem «N
as Os - w in a «a N Nm ssu umason NN
me - m Omm - fl mam m: N .2 O mm some“: :er “seasons asfiaoh ON
- - - - mm - a - - - - .. - NrN N N... sass .sofisos 3. Hanson ON
- - - - O - N - - - - - O O mm saoeanm ON
m - N O - N at: a. an N am aanoso “seasons 2
ON - m as - O Ono 4N ON N mm oaanm massesses S

3932 was”: I Emdom mEoOH OS .02 OS .02 seeped. nah“ am
no“ swarm OmoD SHONE onm Go fiHmdom non—852

 

 

LI

 

poscHucoU 1 Ta m4m<8

39

Range of Prices Paid

 

For tailored blouses, sweaters, straight skirts, shorts, short-
length formal dresses, dressy blouses, blazers, afternoon dresses,
tailored dresses, and jumpers the difference of cost between items
purchased as ready-to-wear and those made was about five dollars.
Greater savings were possible in slacks, cocktail dresses, party
dresses, housecoats, pleated or flared skirts, full length formal
dresses, basic dresses, suits, co-ordinates and dresses with jackets
for those who had sufficient skill to make rather than buy the items.

(See TABLE VI.)

Evaluation of Purchases

 

Little reSponse was made regarding the evaluation of their
purchases in terms of being a good or a poor buy. They found winter
coats of wool, cotton corduroy or nylon fabric car coats, Terylene
uniforms, straight-cut skirts of wool tweed, tailored cotton blouses
with long sleeves, and shoes with illusion heels to be very satisfactory.
As a poor buy they noted winter boots made of corduroy, gym shorts
that were difficult to iron (terry-cloth was preferred), wrap-around

skirts, and Terylene uniforms as being too warm.

Brand Preferences and Identification

 

Although shoes were the most frequently purchased item for the
group, 43. 2% had no favorite brand. . Seventeen varieties of shoes were
named more than once. . Included in the brands mentioned were shoes
of Canadian, British, Italian and American manufacture. Some dif-
ficulty was experienced in distinguishing between names of shoe
stores and brands.

Only 21. 6% had no preference regarding brands of sweaters.

Woolen sweaters made by Lansea, and sweaters made by Kitten of

40

Orlon or- Banlon were the two most popular brands. The majority of
the listings, however, were for British-made sweaters including
such brands as Dalkieth, Pringle, and Pride 0' Glen.

. Brands of blouses were also well-known by the students; only
33%,did not list a brand they preferred. The three named most often
.were Ship N" Shore and Susan Van Hfusen (which received equal
mention) and London Lassie. The latter two of thethree named are
made by Canadian firms.

. Since skirts were found to be an item commonly made at home
rather than purchased as ready-to-wear, it was not surprising that
only 52% of the students named any favored brand. . Listed by those
who did have a preference were skirts made by three Canadian firms--
Nat Gordon, Miss Sun Valley, and Sportrite Junior.

.A greater number (52. 3 per cent) expressed no brand prefer-
ence in dresses. . Jonathan. Logan was the only name listed by many
girls. . This can, perhaps, be explained by the fact that the firm
advertises widely and since 1957 has had a large Canadian branch
located in Montreal.

The ability of the students to identify various brand names
with the corresponding fibers, fabrics or clothing items was studied
by checking the results of question number 17 on the questionnaire.

- (See the Appendix.) Out of a possible score of 23 the average student
recognized nine items correctly. Scores ranged from 0-20.
Recognition was greater for brand names that were widely advertized
or for items bought quite frequently.

The highest recognition score was for a widely advertized and
distributed item. .In the group 88. 6 per cent knew that Ship N' Shore
was a brand name for blouses and only 5. 7 per cent identified it
erroneously as being another article of clothing. The brand name of

a Canadian firm, Miss SunValley, with less publicity and advertising

41

yet widely distributed in the stores, was recognized by 83 per cent

of the group and had no incorrect listings. Dan River, a brand

name of cotton fabrics, was correctly identified by 75 per cent but
also was thought to be a type of clothing by 22. 7 per cent of the
students. Teena Paige dresses were correctly recognized by 69

per cent'with 5. 7 per cent in error. . This American firm has a
Canadian branch as well as a wide promotional coverage. . Nat Gordon,
a Toronto firm, was identified by 59. 1 per cent but had 11.4 per cent
incorrect listings.

Errors occurred most frequently in the identification of a fiber
as distinct from a fabric or clothing type. For instance, Dacron was
correctly identified as a fiber by 50 per cent, but also was checked
under other headings such as blouses or dresses. ~, In Canada the same
fiber is called Terrylene and under that name it had a slightly higher
percentage of correct recognition with fewer errors. Arnel fiber
promotion too has been combined with that for ready-to-wear. Arnel
was correctly named as a fiber by 47. 7 per cent but 54. 5 per cent of

the group regarded it as a brand of clothing. (See TABLE VII.)

TABLE VII

AMOUNT OF CORRECT AND INCORRECT IDENTIFICATION
OF NAME BRAND WITH ITS CORRESPONDING CATEGORY

 

 

 

 

Correct Incorrect
Category Brand Identification Identification
No. ’ Per Cent No. Per Cent

Shoes Capezio 42 47. 7 3 3. 4
Sandler 29 33. 0 l 1.1

Del Grande 9 10. 2 6 6. 8

Amalfi 7 8. 0 3 3. 4

Blouses Ship N'Shore 78 88.6 5 5.7
Judy Bond 18 20.5 4 4.5

Sportswear Miss Sun Valley73 83. 0 0 0
and Co- Nat Gordon 52 59.1 9 10. 2
ordinates Lou Larry 37 42. 0 3 3. 4
White Stag 27 30.7 11 12.5

Sweaters Pride O'Glen 33 37. 5 5 5. 7
Pringle 16 18. 2 4 4. 5

Dresses Teena Paige 61 69.3 5 5.7
Poslum(Jack) 27 42. 0 7 8. 0

Mr. Mort 18 20.5 10 11.4

Ricky 9 10. 2 8 9. 1

Miss K..K 9 10.2 7 8.0

Fabrics Dan River 66 75. 0 18 20. 5
TexMade 30 35. 3 20 22. 7

Fibers Terylene 45 51. 1 34 38.6
Dacron 44 50. 0 38 43. 2

7 43 48. 9

Arnel 42 47.

 

CHAPTER VI

SIGNIFICANT VARIABLES RELATED
TO THE FINDINGS

This study was designed first to investigate the actual clothing
practices and preferences of the students (both as purchasers of
clothing in general and as a group with more than average Skill and
experience in construction methods) then to determine possible
explanations for their actions.

. The findings reported in the preceding chapters suggested some
relationships between influences and practices for various segments
of the sample. This chapter deals with the similarities and differences
found when these elements were separated from and compared to the
total group. The method used to measure the difference was the
statistical technique of Chi Square explained in Chapter 111. Only
differences at or below the 0. 05 level were considered significant.
Some differences less than 0. 20 are mentioned to indicate that they
approach significance.

Four comparisons within the sample were made. First the dif-
ferences between Degree and Diploma class students were investigated
as these two groups were already separate academic divisions.
Secondly, a comparison was made between rural and urban students to
see if their background might have influenced their approach to cloth-
ing practices. . Thirdly a distinction was made between the groups
found to have high or low Clothing Interest scores (a high score occurs
when the individual has many types of clothing in her wardrobe).

Finally, the group who had read more than the average number of

43

44

fashion magazines was compared to the remainder of the sample to

see if "Fashion Interest" was related to other practices.

. Comparison. Between Degree and Diploma Class Students

 

Some of the differences between these groups mentioned in
.Chapter IV showed the Diploma students to be a little older, to have
come from slightly larger families, to be from a higher socio-
economic level and to have spent more on their wardrobes for the
year they were on campus than did members of the Degree class.
Measuring the amount of difference in other aspects, the following
relationships were found to exist:

The most significant difference between the two student groups
was in the comparison of Clothing Interest scores. This score,
representing the number of different types of clothing a person
possessed, was found by M. L. Rosencranz1 to be related to the owner's
interest in having the most suitable type of clothing for various activi-
ties. The score is not dependent on the amount of money spent for
clothing at a given time since these items may have been added over
a number of years. A possible explanation for the number of Diploma
students who have many types of clothing is that for them clothes
have certain social values. Degree students were found to have added
a highly significant number of blouses and sweaters to their wardrobe
for college. Because they were embarking on a four-year course,
they may have done this as a type of investment since these are
"classic" types of clothing. A very significant majority of Degree
students had learned to sew at home. .Fewer Degree students than

..Diploma students preferred to shop alone. . Also based on Clothing

 

1Rosencranz, pp. cit., p. 151.

45

Interest scores, the number of Diploma students found to have fur or
fur-fabric coats, evening wraps and lounging pyjamas differed sig-
nificantly from the number in the Degree class who had these items,
again suggesting a socio-economic difference.

On a level approaching significance (between < . 05 and <. 20)
there were more of the Degree students who had come from rural
areas; purchased or made clothing co-ordinates; spent above the
average amount for sewing materials; taken 4-H projects or Singer
Sewing classes; and more had sewn for themselves before coming on
campus. . In the Diploma group there was a greater number who had
shopped for some of their clothing in the United States.

The groups were alike in the amount of instruction their mem-
bers had received in clothing construction at school; the amount of
reading which they had done; the sources of income for their wardrobe
purchases; their recognition of brand names; and the number of items
that were made rather than purchased as ready-to-wear (although
there was some difference in favor of the Degree group over the
Diploma group in this comparison). There was a similar proportion
of each group who considered they had learned some sewing techniques
on their own and who had previously taken clothing selection courses.
In both groups there were an equal number of shoppers who liked
their mothers to accompany them, and an equal number who now

select all clothes on their own. . (See TABLE VIII).

COMPARISON OF DIFFERENCES BETWEEN RURAL
AND URBAN STUDENTS
Students who came from farms and small towns were included
in the rural category; those from small and large cities were the
urban group. . In the rural group there were 27 students from the Degree

class and 10 from the Diploma class, making a group of thirty—seven.

_._—

46

 

0.Ao.H0AH C30m

m SAHEmo

 

 

Hoe: mOG0HOBm 00Hw0Q 0.82 ON . v AH mmoH :0 93800 0.8H0AH m0>H0mE0AHu .AOH p030m 4H
0.85 c0vaH HONAH mus0p3m 00pm0nHt ON . V AH OmN. .H m0musoo mag/0m n0maHm HOE... HHIH. a0vau HOmHH ..H
0.85 80mm mHG0HOSHm 00am00 ON . v AH mNH .N 083088 @3300 .AoH 0m0n0>0 0>onnm 80mm NH
mudvfldum OOHwQQ OHOHZ ON . V AH mom .N mmmkm Hdhflk 80.3" mufimvfium HH
988 Be ansopsom espouse ON. v a :2 .N nossom porno one on poaaosm OH
0.88 OAstoo. muo0pspm 00nm0nH OH . v AH OmN .m Home: .8 3380. 9:350 onscHHopotoU O
00:00HHHcmHm wcHHomonAHAHaq. m0HAHmHum>
0.88 05.0: mecopsum .mEoHAHHQ mo . v AH memo .Hs mmgmgm manddoH 0>0H.H m
0.85 HoHHO mps0p3m accoHAHHQ mO . v H HOH .m 0G0H0 AHoAHm on H0H0HAH N.
0.88
0.203 m80p8m NEOHHHQ HO . v AH N80 .O mama? mGHG0>0 0>0HH O
0.88
0.3m: mue0p3m mgoHAHHQ HO . v AH Nho .w 3000 3.8.3133 .8 .AsH 983 m
050: as @0983
mOQ0Ho3m 00aw0Q 0.82 HOO . v AH woo .HH 0593 He 30w on Ho0cnm01H Ht
mHG0HOSHm 00Hw0nH .HAH
HAHmdoAH ma0flm03m 0.82 HOO . v AH Nam .mH fiHwSOAH mu0u0030 Ho H0AHESZ m
muc0pfium 00uw0nH
>3 Ewdon. 00283 0.82 HOO . v AH mmH .mH Emacs. m0mdoHnH .8 H0AHESZ N
um0u0HGH mGHHHuoHU
HmHaH HOMHH Hdonw .mEoHAHHnH HOO . v AH OOONH Hm0A0AHGH wGHAHuoHU CH 0w0u0>m 0>oAH.m m0u00m H
COHO0H0HAHH0OAHH 00:00HHHdem 0.8.9Um HAHO m0HAHmHnm>. Harm
.Ho H0>0..H 803chme

 

mHZMQDHm-WmHHD.QU HMHOMQ QZ< mmmDOU <H>HOAnHHnH

megHthmH mmHOZMHHanHnHHnH OZHMH<AHHH>HOU ZH QZDOH mmbd<> MH<DOW HHHO .HO >H<H>HH>HDm <

HHH> Mdm<H

47

Two students from rural areas in Trinidad were not included. This
left a total of 49 in the urban group.

Highest level of significant difference was found to be in the
number from rural areas who said they were independent in making their
clothing choices. More low Clothing Interest scores were found among
the rural students; but they were found to have spent more on sewing
materials and to have constructed more clothing items than their class-
mates from the cities. The number who learned to sew at home and
from their mothers was highest for the rural group. . (See TABLE IX.)

There was also indication that more of the students from farms
and small towns than from cities had not taken an interest in choosing
their clothes until reaching high school; as a group they had read
fewer fashion magazines; were slightly below the urban group inbrand
recognition; and their average total wardrobe costs were lower.

There was no difference noted between the groups in regard to
the amount of instruction in sewing received at school or in the order
which they rated the reasons why they sewed. . Equal proportions did

some shopping for college clothes in the United States.

Comparison Between High and Low Clothing
Interest Groups

 

 

A list of fifteen different types of clothing was given in the
questionnaire (see Appendix, Number 19) and the students were asked
to check the items they had in their wardrobes. Although some of these
items may have been obtained before coming to college ('8. 3. , a riding
habit, ski suit, or evening wrap) the total number of different types
checked was found previously to be in direct pr0portion to the degree
of interest the individual had in clothing.1 Out of the fifteen types the

average student in the sample had nine items, indicating a relatively

 

lRosencranz, op. cit., p. 49.

TABLE IX

48

A SUMMARY OF CHI SQUARE VALUES FOUND IN COMPARING
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN RURAL AND URBAN GROUPS

 

 

 

 

Significant Chi Level of Interpre-
Rank Variables Square Sign tation
1 Select all clothes 11. 009 p < . 001 More from
independently rural areas
select all
their own
clothing
2 Above average Clothing 8. 613 p < . 01 Fewer with
Interest scores above average
scores from
rural areas
3 Learned to sew from 7. 602 p < . 01 More rural
their mothers students
learned to sew
from mother
4 Spent an above average 4. 447 p < . 05 More was spent
amount on sewing by rural
materials students
Variables Approaching Significance
5 _ Constructed more than 2. 895 p < .10 More items

the average number of
wardrobe items

made by rural
students

 

49

high clothing interest for the entire population. . Those who checked
ten or'more items comprised the group of twenty- six which will be
called the Clothing Interest group. . According to the practices of
these persons in other studies, this group should indicate an. above-
average social use of clothing.

With reference to the Degree-Diploma class comparisons made
earlier in this chapter, high Clothing Interest scores were more
common in the Diploma group. . Nineteen high scorers were Diploma
students, and seven were in the Degree course. . The next most
significant difference was that twenty-three ofthe twenty- six, or 88. 5
per cent, were from urban areas. . A large variation was also found
when the number of years Spent in Home Economics classes at school
were compared. Most high scorers (in Clothing Interest had taken
more than three years of these classes, although they were not among
those who sewed above the average number of items for their college
wardrobe. (See TABLE X.) The Clothing Interest group did not
spend more than average amounts for either their entire wardrobe or
for their sewing materials. . This relates to previous findings in the
study by M. L. Rosencranzl who found Clothing Interest to be independ-
ent of wardrobe costs.

. The persons with high Clothing Interest scores were not above
average in brand recognition; they bought more items during the
school year; they read fewer fashion magazines; and only a few had
learned to sew at home. Quite a few of the total of those who shopped in
the United States had High Interest scores.

The greater amount of time spent in the Home Economics class—
room may have given these persons an interest in acquiring and caring

for clothes, in having the correct costume for the occasion, but not

 

1Rosencranz, 22. cit., p. 51.

50

005 50 009$ m5HAH8H0 H0 0m500 353 0 005 50000AH 0 5053 @050030 000 00000m 0000005H w55H8HU 533..

00000003

-'

 

005Hu0w05

005Hu0w05 50H500H H0

 

 

50H500H 0030H H0000 0000000 HwHHIH ON . v AH HOO .H 9000000 0w000>0 0500.0 H0000 053 005552 w
000% 80500 w5H05H0 05AH500 50 m5H>H000
050A: 0005 05w50AH 0000000 AHmHHH ON . V AH HmN .N 0050 00005005AH :0500: m5HvH05 000.552 N.
.m .3
5H H00AHAH050 0000000 595 0002 ON . V AH OHsm .N 008nm 0005b 050 5H H00nHAH050 053 000.552 O
5oHHH5m0000 H5000. 5H 0m000>0 50305w0000 05005 50
0>0AH0 85 0003 000000 AHNHHIH OH. V AH wmw .N 000000 0m000>0 0>0AH0 H05 053 005552 m
0505 00 300 00 5003 85 HOHHO
000000 HwHOH 5003 00050 H0 002 OH. V AH MON .m 0505 00 300 00 005000H 053 000,552 H.
00500HHH5me N5050000AHAH< 00HAH0H00>
80500 00
00050500mH 050$ H0 00000» N 00>0 80500 00 50305000500 m55H8H0
H005 0,“.00000 5mg 08. H0 0002 HO . V AH mHN .OH H0 00000» m 00>0 50x00 m5H>0AH 000.52 M
00000 50505 500m 000 802 HOO . v AH OmO .OH p5500mvH00AH 50AH0D1H005m N
AH500w 0050550 05350 on
05: 5 050550 050HAHHQ 000H>H HOO . V AH OOO .N.H H0000AH500 00500500 000m0Q H0 005552 H
50300.00AH005H 00500HHH5mHm 0005mm HAHO 00HAH0H00> H50~H
0o 0.64 3802000

 

 

.wmmHMHOUm HmmmmHHH/HH OZHEHOAU N504 QZ< HHOHHH HHBHB mHZmHnHDHw

ZHMHNSHHmH mmHUH/HHMHMHHMHQ OZHMH<0HH>HOU .ZH QZDOrH mmHDwH<> Hm<DOm HHHU ho mewHN/HHZDW <

X MJmHHNaH.

51

necessarily for constructing it. . Clothing appears to be important
for social usage to this group but does not seem to be an end in itself.
It would appear that this group follows the norms. of attitudes toward

clothing held by persons of high social and income levels.1

COMPARISON BETWEEN FASHION READERS AND
THOSE WHO READ LESS ABOUT FASHION

The possibility that there existed within the sample a group whose
clothes consciousness and interest in fashion was distinct and different
from that of the Clothing Interest group was based on the number of
the students who had read more than four or above the average number
of magazines pertaining to fashion information. This unit numbered
forty-three, almost 50 per cent of the sample and although there were
more Degree than Diploma students in it (twenty- eight as compared to
fifteen) the difference showed only a tendency toward significante.
The group came almost equally from urban and rural areas, and con-
tained nineteen of the possible thirty-nine from rural areas. The pro-
portion of those with high Clothing Interest scores did not differ from
that in the remainder of the sample. . The number who spent more than
average on their college wardrobe or had higher costs for sewing
materials was also similar to the rest of the group. The same pro-
portion of them had done some shopping for their college clothes in
the United States, and a similar number had learned to sew at home.
A tendency toward significance (but at the < -30 level) was related in
the fashion-reading group to being the eldest or only child.

A high level of significance was found in the small number of
Fashion Readers who had asked what types of clothes were worn on

this campus. This might be interpreted as a feeling of greater confidence

 

1Katz‘and'Lasarsfeld, op. cit. , p. 266; and Barker and Lobel,
op. cit., p. 323.

52

in their own knowledge gained from their readings whichwould be
characteristic of a Fashion Opinion Reader. - A large. number of the
readers planned their wardrobes for college during the year before
coming on campus. . Many of this group had taken morethan three
years of Home Economics classes in clothing construction, but in
contrast to the group with high Clothing Interest,. the Fashion
Interest groupmade more of their college clothes and were above
average in brand recognition as well.

More from the group who read about fashion made their clothing
choices independently. _ The supposition that the Fashion Readers had
sufficient confidence in their own ability to choose an adequate ward-
robe is supported by noting that they made fewer purchases during the
year. . They showed little interest in learning more about choosing
becoming styles, preferring the subject of wardrobe co-ordination.

. Stated as their-present objective in sewing was a. desire to obtain more

clothes for the same amount of money. (See TABLE XI.)

3
5

3

. @3388 Ho 00830

 

.005HN0m050 50H300H Ho 0035055..-0w000>0 0300003000050 0000 033 00030 00 :000000MH 5003.009. 000 005000. ..MH .LH .

 

050050AH005H 03050 .MH .."H 0002 ON . v AH wwo .H >H050050AH005H 0038H0 000H0m O
03000003 0m0HH00
000 05003 00050 003050 .HH ..m 03H OH. V AH 0mm .N 050000 03000003 050H 5030 00050 0002 w ,
>05o50 .8 0550500 05000 00H 0038H0 >05o50 30 0550500 05000
00050 50030 00 0300 .HH ..m 03H. OH . v H wHO .m 030 00H 00388 00050 5H0030 00 30.0. H.
00H>00 w5H500003 05030 00050 w5H 00H>00 w5H500003
..5000H 50 0000000050 .m ..m 0030M OH . v AH mom .m «5030 00050 m5H5000H 5H 000000005H O
000> m5H050
.HH ..HH >3 00050 000030055 0030b OH . v H Omw .N 000> 030 w5H050 00050 00003005AH 30h m
00500HHH5mHm w5H30000AHAH< 00H30H00>
50H0H5m0000
05003 333 003030 .HH ..m >502 NO . v AH OOm .0 50H035w0000 05003 0m000>0 0>o30 00H.H H0.
5030500050 m5H38H0
00H500500mH 058$ Ho 0000> 80300 00
m 00>0 000300000 .m ..m >502 HO . v AH mho .H. 50000500050 w5038H0 30550 00>H000~H m
00030 000> 0 0300
-0003 00030 00550HAH .. .MH ..m >502 HO . v AH cum .w 00030 000> 0 03000003 0w0HH00 00550HnH N
.A
00388 05AH5000 05030
00300 000000~H 50H3000H 30H >00> HOO . V AH wmv .HH 0038H0 05AHA500 05030 000H5W5H H
50H00000AH0005H 00503.35me 0005H0m H3O 00H30H00> 350m
00 H0>01H 0500003me .

 

 

 

HOZ mm< 0m? mHmOHrHH. QZfimmmmAHawmmonmwfim: HM»... 03.3 09785390
2003000 0002500050 075045200 75 52000 0001:; 50.0500 050 .00 0.030250 <

Um MHJmHme.

CHAPTER VII

A COMPOSITE VERBAL PROFILE OF THE STUDENTS
WHO DID AN ABOVE AVERAGE AMOUNT OF SEWING
COMPARED TO THE STUDENTS WHO DID
VERY LITTLE

To determine the influence of clothing construction skills as a
factor in wardrobe choice, twenty students whose wardrobe inventory
included the greatest number of garments sewn rather than purchased
as ready-to-wear were compared to a group of twenty in the sample
who made two or less garments. This latter group could be presumed
to have included in their inventories no constructed items other than
those sewn during clothing laboratory periods in the past year at the
college. . To facilitate this description, those who made many items
will be termed the "C" group, and the ones who bought their clothes
ready-made will be termed the “R-M" group.

Compared on the basis of wardrobe costs, eight in the "C" group
and ten of the “R-M" group had higher than average total wardrobe costs.
Average wardrobe costs for "C" group members was $289.45, only
slightly less than the average of the seventy-seven wardrobes in the whole
group. For the ”R—M" group the average was $315.45 or twenty- six
dollars more than the general average for the total group. The “R-M"
group purchased an average of 22. 2 items; "C" group purchased 26. 5
items. The average cost per item in the "C" wardrobe was $10. 77,
while for the "R-M" group the cost was $14. 21. For the six to fourteen
items made for each of the first twenty wardrobes for group ”C" an

average of $70. 40 was spent; fabric costs ranged from $24. 00 to $169. 00.

54

55

Fifteen per cent more of the "C" group earned all money spent
for clothing, and 10 per cent of those in the “R-M" group received
their entire funds from their families.

Eighty per cent of the ”C" group, and 65 per cent of the. "R-M"
group were in the Degree course. About half of the "C" group and a
third of the "R-M's" came from farms or small towns. A..few more of
the "C" group had older sisters, but in the main, members of both
parties were the eldest girl in the family. It was of interest that. the two
groups had Spent almost the same amount of time in Home Economics
c0urses in school. The difference and, perhaps, most influential factor
appears to be that those who did the most sewing had learned at home;
had taken 4-H work, and considered themselves partially self-taught.
Only 25 per cent of the "R-M" group as compared to 55 per cent in the
"C" group had learned to sew at home, 20 per cent fewer of them had
taken 4-H projects, and 15 per cent fewer had been self-taught. The ”C"
group included 15 per cent more persons who had taken clothing selection
courses. The reading of fashion magazines also appeared to influence
the group who sewed, since nearly twice as many in the “C" group had
read more than the average when compared to the non-sewers. Seventy-
five per cent of the group who did sew had read above the average number
of four fashion magazines.

The reasons that were given for sewing showed the following dif-
ferences. . Forty per cent of the "C" group sewed to obtain more articles
for the same amount of money. Twenty-five per cent sewed because they
liked to sew. . Fifteen per cent were interested in having a wider choice
of styles, and 10 per cent sewed to obtain a better fit. . Although 25 per
cent of the infrequent sewers wanted more clothes for the same amount
of expenditure, only 15 per cent liked to sew, and only 5 per cent were
interested in having a wider choice of styles. The greatest number, 30

per cent, of these persons wished to achieve a better fit. This would

56

appear to be their main reason for constructing a garment rather than
purchasing it ready-made.

. A difference was observed in the number who did shopping in the
United States for their college wardrobe. Of the "C" group, 20 per
cent sh0pped there as compared to 45 per cent of the group who preferred
ready-made clothes. Nine persons or 45 per cent of the "C” group had
asked about the type of clothing that was worn on the Guelph campus, but
in the other group 70 per cent had sought this information.

To complete the profile of the practices of the two groups, further
comparison shows a similarity in ages when interest in choosing their
own clothing was developed; the number who now make their clothing
choices without assistance; when their college wardrobe for the past
year was planned or purchased; the persons they prefer as sh0pping
companions; and the number in each group having high Clothing Interest
scores.

It would appear that those who had sewn the most items for their
college wardrobes were girls who had activities connected with clothing
construction in addition to school classes in Home Economics, whose
homes gave them a previous or auxillary background, or encouraged an
independence that would lead to solving problems on their own and in
this way they would be self-taught through the experience. . Singer Sewing
courses and 4-H activities also appear to reinforce this development.
Learnings in clothing selection classes augmented by an observance of
fashion changes through reading magazines and new3papers would seem
to have a positive effect.

The Degree course students appear to comprise the majority of
both groups as 80 per cent of those who sew most and 65 per cent of those
who sew the fewest garments were in the four-year course. (See TABLE

XII.)

TABLE XII

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN BACKGROUND, INFLUENCES AND
PRACTICES OF THE STUDENTS WHO SEWED BETWEEN
6 AND 14 GARMENTS AND THOSE WHO MADE TWO OR LESS

 

Group of 20 students Group of 20 students

 

 

 

who constructed who bought ready-to
some clothing items wear clothing
(”C” Group) ("R-M" Group)
# % # %
Background
Geographical 11 Rural 55 6 Rural . 3O
9 Urban 45 14 Urban 70
Those having older 4 20 l 5
sisters
Academic composition 16 Degree 80 13 Degree 65
of the group 4 Diploma 20 7 Diploma 35
Where the student
learned to sew:
At home 11 55 5 25
4-H Clubs 6 30 2 10
Self-taught 6 3O 3 15
Singer courses 3 15 2 10
at School:
Little or none 4 20 5 15
Moderate amount 5 25 7 35
A Lot 11 55 8 40
Previous clothing 7 35 4 20
Selection courses
Reasons for sewing:
Wanted more clothes 8 40 5 25
for same amount of
money
Liked to sew 5 25 3 15

 

Continued

TABLE XII - Continued

 

 

Group of 20 students
who constructed
some clothing items

 

Group of 20 students
who bought ready-to
wear clothing

 

 

 

 

 

robe during year be-
fore registration

(”C“ Group) ("R-M" Group)
# % # ‘70
Background continued
To have a wider 3 15 1 5
choice of styles
To get a better fit 2 10 6 30
Those desiring more
knowledge about:
A choice of becoming 6 30 7 35
styles
Speed techniques in 4 20 Z 10
sewing
Advanced construction 4 2.0 3 15
techniques
Co-ordinating a 2 10 3 15
wardrobe
Areas of Influence
Those reading above 15 75 8 40
average number of
fashion magazines
Those who asked what 9 45 14 70
was worn on campus
Those who shopped with:
mother 13 65 11 55
friend 8 4O 6 3O
alone 6 3O 7 35
sister 1 5 2 10
Clothing Practices
Planning: and purchasing:
Those who planned ward- 10 5O 8 4O

 

Continued

TABLE XII - Continued

59

 

.1

 

Group of 20 students
who constructed
some clothing items

 

Group of 20 students
who bought ready-to
wear clothing

 

 

 

 

(”C” Group) (“R-M” Group)
# ‘70 # %
Clothing Practices continued
by June. 3 15 4 20
One month before 6 30 30
registration
No answer 1 5 2 10
Number: who shopped in 4 20 9 45
the United States
Number above average 12 6O 10 50
in brand recognition
Independence in select-
ing and buying:
Interest in choosing
clothing deve10ped:
Before the junior 7 35 5 25
years of High School
During the junior 7 35 4 20
years of High School
While in Senior
High School 6 3O 4 20
No answer 0 0 2 10
Amount of clothing se-
lected' independently:
All 11 55 8 40
Most 9 45 ll 55
None 0 O l 5
Number with above 5 25 6 30

average Clothing
Interest score

 

Continued

60

TABLE XII - Continued

 

 

Group of 20 students Group of 20 students

 

 

 

 

who constructed who bought ready-to
some clothing items wear clothing
("C" Group) ("R-M" Group)
# % # %
Wardrobe Costs:
Number with above 8 40 10 50
average wardrobe
costs
Average wardrobe cost $289. 45 $315. 45
Average amount spent
on fabric $70. 40 --
Total number of items
added to wardrobe
for college wear Z6. 5 22. 2

Average cost per item $10. 77 $14. 21

 

CHAPTER VIII

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

Summary

 

A group of Freshmen women at a Canadian college were studied
to explore the nature of influences affecting their choice of clothes
for a college wardrobe. The p0pu1ation of eighty- eight was composed
of fifty-three students in the first year of a four-year Degree course
in Home Economics and thirty-five young women enrolled in a one—
year Diploma course in Homemaking. Both groups were in residence
on the Ontario Agricultural College campus in Guelph, Ontario, and
were taking their courses at Macdonald Institute, the Home Economics
college there.

An inventory and a questionnaire form were distributed to the

was

sample in April 1960. The data collected in this. wayhrelated to the
students' background and to the clothes which had been selected for
first year wear on campus. This information, tabulated by hand, formed
the basis for the description of the sample. Effects of various influences
were studied after the relationship of certain variables to four segments,
isolated within the group, had been measured using the statistical
technique of Chi Square.

Most of the freshmcn students in this study were between nineteen
and twenty years of age. . A little more than half of them had resided in

urban areas; seventy-five per cent were the eldest daughter in a family

of three children.

61

62

Fifty-six per cent of the students had combined their earnings
from summer jobs with sums provided by their families to purchase
clothes for college. The rest, excluding the 10 per cent whose
families provided the total amount, had been responsible for their
own wardrobe costs. About one-fifth of the girls had a clothing plan
or budget, but most of them purchased what was needed or thought
”necessary” without a previous plan. Although 45. 5 per cent started
toplan or buy items to be worn on campus in the year before college
registration, 30. 7 per cent waited until the month before classes began.
"Some" items were bought after registration by 46 per cent but only 7
per cent bought "many" items. The average freshman class member
had spent nearly three hundred dollars for clothing outerwear excluding
hosiery in the year preceding this study.

Large department stores and Specialty stores were the most
popular sources of college clothes. In them blouses, sweaters, skirts,
shoes, coats, dresses, uniforms, fabrics and accessories were pur-
chased in descending order of frequency. . In the specialty stores skirts,
then dresses, sweaters, blouses, and shoes were bought most often.
Sweaters, hosiery and skirts were the predominate purchases in clothing
chain stores. Thirty-three per cent of the group shopped in the United
States, most often buying shoes and dresses in stores there. Large
Department stores in Detroit, Buffalo, New York, Boston, Cleveland
and Chicago were visited. Less shopping in the United States was done
by the group than was expected.

Three-quarters of the girls had sewn before coming to college.
Over two-fifths had learned at home and all but one—fifth had taken some
instruction (ranging from one to eight years) at school. Clothing projects
in 4-H clubs had been done by two-fifths of the girls and 10 per cent
had taken Singer Sewing courses. Using her construction skills, the

student Spent an average of forty dollars for materials for her college

63

clothes. Most girls sewed (l) in order to have more clothes for the
same expenditure; (2) because they liked to sew; or (3) to obtain a
better fit. Articles made most frequently were skirts, informal and
formal dresses, sports clothes and some blouses. Twenty-four per
cent of all items that could have been either made or bought as ready-
to-wear were made by these students. Seven per cent of all their cloth—
ing purchases had been bought at sale prices.

Only a third of the students had taken any formal instruction in
clothing selection before college. They considered that further study
of becoming styles and of wardrobe co—ordination would be more helpful
than advanced construction techniques or instruction in fitting in making
future clothing decisions.

The group had read more fashion magazines than an American

1

group studied in the same year. Over 50 per cent read Seventeen,

 

Vogue (pattern book and magazine) and Glamour (incorporating Charm)
listing the same three as influencing their .college clothing choices.
Some students had read as many as nine different publications.

Sixty-five per cent of the group asked students on campus, graduates
of the college or someone at another campus for information about what

2 Minor sources credited

clothes were needed for campus activities.
as having been influential were classmates, older sisters, store clerks,
and their mothers.

Interest in choosing their own clothing before beginning high school
was taken by one-third of the group while the rest became interested

during their high school years. Almost all of the group had received

parental encouragement in making their own decisions regarding clothing.

 

1See Table III, page 29.
2'Katz and Lazarsfeld, o_p_. cit., p. 247.

64

If purchasing a major wardrobe item, consultation would "always" or
"sometimes” be sought by all but 6 percent; 44 per cent would 22: c0py
their friend's style choices but the same number admitted they “sometimes"
did. On a shopping trip 38 per cent preferred to shop alone, the rest
chose Mother and/or friends to accompany them.

What were the main purchases ? An average of four pairs of shoes;
from three to four dresses; three sweaters; nearly three of blouses,
sports clothes, and skirts or co-ordinates; almost two jackets or coats;
and one uniform. Ninety-three per cent favored fabrics made of wool for
campus wear, especially tweeds, fine woolens, and worsted fabrics.
Bulky or shag-finished wool or wool-blend fabrics were a popular fashion
item. Cotton was mentioned by 20 per cent, other fibers were named
less frequently.

Most students could name a preferred brand of sweaters and blouses,
but fewer did so for shoes, skirts, or dresses. In a question designed to
determine awareness of brand names, the average student correctly
recognized nine out of twenty-three. Recognition was generally greatest
for items that were widely advertized or distributed. Errors in recog-
nition occurred most frequently when the students associated a fiber or
fabric with a type of garment. For example Arnel was identified as a
fiber by 48 per cent, but was thought to be a brand name for articles of
clothing by 49 per cent.

Using the statistical technique of Chi Square, differences at or
below the 0. 05 level were considered significant and those up to 0. 2 as
having values approaching Significance. . Comparisons were made between
practices of students in four segments of the total group: those in Degree
and Diploma classes; with rural and urban backgrounds; High and Low

Clothing Interest Scorers; and high and low Fashion Reading Scorezs.

65

Degree-Diploma

 

The academic division between Degree and Diploma students was
described in Chapter IV, and the differences noted in age, economic
and social class, number of brothers and sisters, and amounts spent
on the whole wardrobe. Degree students tended to be younger, be
from a middle class background, have fewer brothers and sisters, and
to have Spent less on their freshman wardrobe. Statistical difference
was greatest when Clothing Interest Scores were compared. The pre-
dominance of Diploma students with a high score would suggest a greater
social use of clothing by that group. Fur or fur-fabric coats were more
common among Diploma class members, and more of them had items
such as evening wraps and lounging pyjamas, indicative of a higher socio-
economic background. . Degree students had added a greater number of
blouses and sweaters to their wardrobe. . More Diploma girls had not
learned to sew at home; more preferred to sh0p alone.

Differences approaching significance were found in the greater
number of Degree students who had chosen mix-and-match items
(co-ordinates); came from rural rather than urban areas; sewn before
coming on campus; taken more extra-curricular sewing courses; spent
a greater amount on sewing materials; and who had not done any shopping

for college clothing in the United States.

Rural-Urban

 

Significant differences were found in the greater number of students
from small towns and farms who selected their clothing entirely on their
own; the number whose mothers had helped them learn to sew; and those
who spent more than the average amount for sewing materials. The re—
lationship between urban background and those who possessed a greater
variety of types of garments (and consequently had a high Clothing

Interest score) was also supported. The number from the rural group

66

who constructed more items than the average student approached the

level of significanc e .

High and Low Clothing Interest Scores

 

Diploma students with their more extensive wardrobes formed the
major part of the group with high Clothing Interest scores. Eighty-nine
per cent of the high scorers were from urban areas. This suggests that
the need to have a suitable costume for a greater variety of activities
may be important to! the group, and correSpondS to Rosencranz's findings
that urban groups with relatively high income (and high group membership)
had high Clothing Interest.l Most of the high scorers had taken more than
three years of classes in clothing construction at school, yet did not show
significant difference from the low scorers in number of items made
during the past year. Few of those with high scores had learned to sew
at home; they were not above the average in brand recognition; they tended
to augment their wardrobes by purchases during the year; and had read
fewer than average numbers of fashion magazines. More with high

interest scores did some shopping in the United States.

High and Low Fashion Reading Scores

 

The number who had read more than the average number of fashion
magazines comprised almost 50 per cent of the freshmen students. This
group, termed Fashion-Readers was compared with the remainder of the
sample. . A significant relationship was found between the Fashion-Readers
and the group who had not; asked what types of clothing were worn on
campus and made independent choices of clothing. They had planned their

wardrobes during the year before registration and did not find it necessary

to buy many additional clothing items during the year. - As a group the

 

lRosencranz, o_p_. _c_:_i_t., pp. 48-49.

67

Fashion-Readers were above average in brand recognition. Many had
taken more than three years of Home Economics clothing classes and
had made above the average number of items for their wardrobe, yet
had not spent more than the average student had spent for fabric or total
cost of all clothing. They sewed primarily to have more clothes for the
same amount of money. There seemed to be a wider sc0pe to the cloth-
ing practices of these persons, a "clothes consciousness" 'which included
interest in construction skills, economic values, fashion changes and

quite likely fashion leadership as well.

. Profiles of Those Who Sewed Many Items

 

A profile constructed to show the difference between students who
had sewn from six to fourteen items of their college clothes found them
to differ most from those who did little or no sewing in the areas of. back-
ground, amount of schooling completed, where and howthey had learned
to sew, their reasons for sewing, previous clothing selection courses,
sources of influence, and in which country they had Sh0pped.

More persons who sewed came from rural areas; were in the
Degree course; had learned to sew at home, in 4~H work and on their
own; had read more fashion magazines; had not asked what was worn on
campus before coming; had not shopped in the United States; and had
selected their clothing independently. Their wardrobe costs were lower
than the average for the group who did little sewing, yet they had added
an average of four more items. The amount of clothing instruction taken
in school Home Economics classes did not differ by more than fifteen
per cent between the group that had sewn many items and those who had

sewn very few.

Application of the Findings

 

For the purpose of evaluating the college Home Economics curricula

in the light of practices of the students studied, it would appear that those

68

who have an interest in and gain a satisfaction from actual construction

of clothing for themselves had an Opportunity to learn the skills involved
at home, school, in 4-H or special sewing classes, and on their own
initiative. . However, these persons and others who do not choose to
make their own clothes wish to know more about selecting clothes that
are becoming to them and wardrobe co-ordination before they go on to
learn more advanced construction techniques. Thus, Clothing Selection
courses should be recognized as having an important position in the
framework of clothing studies. With the knowledge gained in selection,
students may decide to increase their skill in construction by taking such
courses as Tailoring, or Clothing Design, including flat-pattern and
draping techniques. But those whose interest in clothing construction is
less intense may utilize the information from Clothing Selection as they
purchase their clothes ready-made and perhaps help others to make
satisfactory clothing choices. . Those who have no need of construction
skills to have a "better" wardrobe are likely to be less interested in
clothing construction courses than those who enjoy and utilize their skills.
Clothing retailers in Canada may be assured that the college

freshman is a good customer, whether She buys her wardrobe ready-made
or the fabric to make it for herself. _ She recognized name brands of
clothing whether they have been brought to her attention through advertising
or through wide distribution in the stores where she shops. She buys
shoes, blouses and sweaters in largest quantities, and plans or makes her
purchases either in the year preceding registration or in the month before
coming to the campus. She may buy a few of her college clothes in stores
across the border in the United States, but two-thirds did all their shopping
here. . Large city department stores and specialty stores whose campus
clothes have the qualities shewants receive her patronage.

. From the findings of this study it appears that the approach taken

in choosing college clothes by both American and Canadian freshmen is

69

similar. This was observed in the amounts Spent by the average stu-

dent; the effect of background on present practices; and the sources of
influence which direct her choice. Both wear the same types of college
clothes, if the climate is similar. The Canadians relied extensively

on. fashion leadership through American publications and a third did some
of their Shopping in the United States. Wool sweaters of British manu-
facture were often chosen in preference to those from the home market

or from the United States. Their preference for wool is perhaps greater
than would be found among American college students, partly due to climate

and also an appreciation of its easy-wearing qualities.

Conclusions

 

A difference in the approach was noticed between students whose
interest in clothing is more of a means to an end, and those who give it
value for itself. The former description may apply most aptly to those
who have a relatively high income, are from an urban area, and who have
an extensive wardrobe with a variety of types of clothing.1 Since this
group tends to depend on personal influence or direction in choosing the
correct costume, their main concern may be in having the right clothes to
wear at the right time, perhaps for the satisfaction in status they gain
from them. Persons with these characteristics have been called the
Clothing Interest group, but when they are compared with the group termed
the ”Fashion Readers, " their interest seemed much narrower, but may
be related to a taboo of discusSing clothes in their social level.

. If one accepts the preceding statement, the group who appreciate or
value clothing for itself are not necessarily interested in having a wide
variety of clothes, but rather in reading about current fashion, planning a
wardrobe; judging for themselves what will be best for their needs; and
making some of their clothes. . Persons with these interests may be from

rural or urban areas, and may have spent a lot of money or a little for

 

w

, lAn easily manipulated measurement for categorizing a group whose
socio- -economic background is unknown could perhaps be predicted with
some accuracy using this checklist of types of clothing.

70

their college clothes. Their common bond is a consciousness or aware-
ness of clothes from the fashion, economic and creative viewpoints.
Hypothetically, these persons would be the fashion leaders of their peers,
and it would be interesting to investigate their Sphere of influence.

A study similar to the one made by Dorothy Runbeck Stout1 might be made
to see if the aesthetic values of clothing are greater for those who have
an interest in fashion or for the group with a more specific interest in
clothing.

From examination of a profile of students who had done more sewing
for themselves than had the rest of the group, it was found that they were
able to have more clothes for the same amount of money, but were not
too concerned with having a less expensive wardrobe since the money
saved was used to buy additional items. Those who sewed were likely
to have learned at home, be the eldest daughter, and «considered them-
selves to be self-taught in construction methods to some extent. Since
many persons in the group that had done very little sewing of college
clothes had taken the same number of school clothing classes as those
who had 1 :‘ sewn items for college wear, it would appear that the attitude
toward sewing and perhaps to clothes in general might depend upon
early development in the home. Further investigation would be necessary
before a definite conclusion could be drawn.

This study attempted to explain how economic practices in selection
of clothing may be affected by various influences such as background,
environment, personal contact and mass media. By investigation of the
buying practices of a group of freshmen who had an enriched background

of skills and interest in clothing, some insight was gained into certain

 

lDorothy Runbeck Stout and Alpha Latzke, "Values College Women
Consider in Clothing Selection, " Journal of Home Economics, Vol. 50:1
January 1958, p. 43.

 

71

factors which tend to relate to a pattern of behavior. Duplication of the
study using populations of other, or less unique configurations, could

test hypotheses formulated on the basis of the practice of this group.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Books

Class, Status and Power, A Reader in Social Stratification edited by
Reinhard Bendin and Seymour Lipset, Glencoe, 111: Free Press,
1957. .

 

Hagood, Margaret J: 4 Statistics for Sociologists. New York: Henry Holt
and C0. , 1947.

 

Katona, George, Psychological Analysis of Economic Behavior.
New York: McGraw-Hill Book Co. , Inc. , 1951.

 

Katz, Eilhu and Pazarsfeld, Paul, Personal Influence. Glencoe, 111.:
The Free Press, 1955.

 

Warner, Lloyd and Meeken, M. and Eells, K. . Social Class in America.
Science Research Associates, 1949.

 

Wolff, Janet. What Makes Women Buy? New York: McGraw-Hill Book
Co., Inc. , 1958.

 

Publications

 

Barr, Estelle D. "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Motivation, “
Archives of Psychology, No. 171. New York: Columbia University
Press, 1934.

 

Silverman, Sylvia S. "Clothing and Appearance, Their Psychological
Implications for Teen-Aged Girls" Contributions to Education
No. 912, New York: Bureau of Publications, Teachers' College,
Columbia University, 1945. ’

 

U npubli shed Lite ratur e

 

Engen, Blossom, "Buying Practices for Specified Apparel Items of
50 College Girls. " Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan
State University, 1957.

Leask, Grace J. ”A Summary of the Clothing Preferences and Buying
Practices of One Hundred Girls of West Division High School,
Milwaukee, Wisconsin. ” Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan
State University.

72

73

Reid, Doris Jean. "A Study of Clothing Practices of Urban High
School Seniors. " Unpublished Master's thesis, Virginia
Polytechnic Institute, Blacksburg, 1951.

. Rosencranz, Mary Lou. "A Study of Interest in Clothing Among
Selected Groups of Married and Unmarried Young Women. "
Unpublished Master' 5 thesis, Michigan State University
(College), 1948.

Rosner, Anne T. "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying
Practices of Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Ill."
Unpublished Master' 3 thesis, Michigan State University, 1954.

Warning, Margaret. "The Implications of Social Class for Clothing
Behaviour. " Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, Michigan State
University, 1956.

Journals

Journal of Home Economics

 

Canadian Textile Journal

 

Periodicals

 

I'-

Style. Trade Publication for Canadian Women and Children's Clothing
Industry.

Canada Yearbook, 1959. Queen's Printer, Ottawa.

 

Canadian Textile Manual-- 1960.

 

Abstracts

 

Edelman, Reba J. "Trends in the College Wardrobe. " Unpublished
Master's Thesis, Drexel Inst. of Technology, 1940.

Warden, Jessie A. "Some Desires and Goals for Clothing of College
Women. " Doctoral Thesis, Southern Illinois Univ.

74

Bulletins

Dominion Bureau of Statistics, Catalogue No. 81-204

"Fall Enrollment in Universities and Colleges, 1959" Queen's Printer,
Ottawa.

"The College Freshman Story, " Published by the Research Dept. of
Seventeen Magazine, Copyright 1960 by Triangle Publications, Inc.

 

Reports

Canada Year Book, 1959. Queen's Printer, Ottawa.

 

Report of the Royal Committion on National Development in the Arts,
Letters and Sciences, 1949-1951 (Also called the Massey Commission),
King's (Queen's) Printer, Ottawa, 1951.

 

 

Royal Commission on Canada's Economic PrOSpects (also called the
Gordon Commission).

 

Final Report November 1957; Queen's Printer, Ottawa, 1958.

 

Income and Production in Canada and the United States - I. Brecher
and S. S. Reisman. Queen's Printer, Ottawa, 1957.

 

Canada's Imports. David W. Slater, Queen's Printer, Ottawa, 1957.

 

APPENDIX

75

APPENDIX

CLOTHING QUESTIONNAIRE

The purpose of these questions is to find out about the clothes you
chose for this past year at college. Your answers will be a valuable
contribution to future students telling them what type of clothes are needed
to change their high school wardrobe into one suitable for campus life,
and give an idea of how much it may cost. The other questions will give us
an idea of your group's interest and opinions about clothing. All information
will be kept confidential, being used only to get the total picture. . There
are no right or wrong answers and this is not a test. Please answer the
questions as completely as possible.

Name:

 

Age last birthday:

 

What did you do the year before coming to Macdonald Institute ?

 

Where have you lived most of your life? Check below:

In a small town In a small city

 

 

On a farm In a large city

 

 

How many brothers and sisters have you? Underline the number below:

Younger brothers: 0 l 2 3 4 more than4

Younger sisters: 0 1 2 3 4 more than 4
Older brothers: 0 l 2 3 4 more than 4
Older sisters: 0 l 2 3 4 more than 4

On the last five pages there is a clothing inventory list for you to
check. You may prefer to answer it now and return to the other questions
below later.

1. Did you sew for yourself before taking classes in sewing here? Yes___ No—
1
Where did you learn to sew? At home\? from your Mother? Sister?
from a relative? Self taught

76

At school?

In 4-H groups ?

77

In what grades?

No . of year s

In Singer classes ? Length of class

Other ? (specify)

2. Had you taken any courses in selection of clothing before this year?

In Jr. High School?

In High School?

 

In 4-H Club Work?

Charm School

Other course?
(name it)

3. Below is a list of reasons why people sew.
reasons to it in the remaining lines.

Time spent in course
Time spent in course

Time spent in course

 

course?

 

importanc e to you .

You can have more clothes for the same amount of money.

You like to sew.

Time spent in course

Time spent in course

 

 

 

 

You may wish to add other
Rate your reasons in order of their

Rating

Clothes you make fit you better than ready-made clothes.

You cannot buy the style you wish in ready-made clothes.

You are able to make your own alterations to clothes you
buy or already have.

You have a wider choice of fabric and colors when you sew.

Articles you sew are better made than an article you could
buy for the same amount of money.

Other reasons:

(list below)

 

 

78

4. Do you read articles and magazines about fashions and fashion changes?
Often? Sometimes ? Very seldom ?
List below the magazines and papers which you have read for their

fashion information and place a star (>3) after any that have been of
help to you in choosing your present wardrobe:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I

5. Did you ask anyone for information about what type of clothes are worn on

 

this campus before you came? Yes No
If "yes, ” whom did you ask? A student here?
a student at another college? A graduate of this college?

6. If you received help in planning your college wardrobe from any other
source list it below: (6. g. "Big Sister, " clerk in a store, fashion
counselor, etc.)

 

7. Approximately when did you start to plan or buy clothes for college?

During the year before you came here?

 

Before the end of June 1959?

 

One month before registration?

 

Did you make or buy many , some or few clothes
after arriving on campus ?

8. Where did you shop for clothes you bought for college?

9.

10.

ll

12.

13.

79

TYPE OF STORE ARTICLES OF.CLOTHING BOUGHT; THERE

 

 

Specialty store (e. g. Evangeline)

 

Chain department store (e. g. Walkers)

 

Large city department store
(e.g. Simpson's,. Eaton's)

 

Mail 0 rder catalogue

 

Store in the U.S.A.

 

What are the names of the stores in which your clothing was bought?

Home town or city

 

In nearby large city

 

In the U.S.A.

 

 

 

In Guelph
Do you prefer to shop: By yourself? With your father ?
. With your parents ?_ With your sister ?
With your mother ? With a friend?

 

.. Can-you remember when you first took an interest in choosing your own

clothes ?
Before Jr. .High?_____ While in Jr. High?_____'_ In High School?,____
Now?

Do you select your clothes on your own now? All Most Some

 

 

Have your parents encouraged you to choose your own clothes ?
Yes ? no

When purchasing major items of clothing (e. g. suits or coats) do you:

80

Always Sometime 5 Never

 

Make up your mind without consult-
ing anyone ?

 

Choose an item from a paper or
magazine then shop for it?

 

Choose a style that your friends
wear and like?

 

14. Are there any brands of clothing or Shoes that you particularly like?

Blouses:

 

Skirts:

w—v vi

Sweaters:

 

Dresses:

 

Shoes:

 

15. Are there any fabrics or fibers that you like best for winter college
clothes ?

 

 

CLOTHING PURCHASE. INVENTORY

81

Please check and fill in information for only those items that you
bought or made and added to your‘wardrobe during the last year and have

 

worn on campus. If you cannot remember the exgct cost of the item esti-
mate it as closely as you can. . For items bought on sale, mark an "S"

 

in the space after the price.
asked in the other columns.

Fill in as much as you can of the information

 

 

Category No.

. Name of ,

Fiber

Name of
Fabric

Brand
Name

Cost
Purchased

Made

 

A . COATS
Fur
Real

 

Fur-like

 

(Synthetic)

Dressy
Heavy(winter)

 

 

Light(fall, spriTg)

Sports or everyday
Heavy

 

 

Light

 

Car Coat
Heavy

 

Light

 

Rain Coat
All purpose

 

Plastic

 

Slicker

 

Jackets
Heavy

 

Light

 

Blazer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

82

 

 

Category No. Name of Name of Brand Cost
Fiber Fabric Name Purchased Made

 

B. SUITS
Dressy
Heavy

 

Light

 

Tailored
Heavy

 

 

Light

 

C. DRESSES
Formals
Floor length

 

Short length

 

Cocktail
Sheath

 

Othe r

 

Dressy
Party or Date

 

 

Afternoon

 

Dress and Jacket

 

Casual
Basic

 

Tailored

 

Jumper

 

 

Co-ordinates (2- 3pc)

 

F

Uniforms

 

Special Purpose
(Specify)

 

 

Housecoats
Long
Duster

 

 

 

 

 

Sho rt fitt ed

 

 

 

 

 

83

 

 

Category No. Name of Name of Brand Cost
' Fiber Fabric Name Purchased Made

 

D. SKIRTS
Straight

 

Pleated

 

Flared

 

Other (Specify)

 

E. BLOUSES
Knit

 

Dressy
Long Sleev sd

 

 

Short sleeved I T

 

Sleeveless |

 

Tailored L
Long Sleev d

 

Short Sleeved "

 

Sleeveless -

 

Other (specify)

 

F. SWEATERS
Bulky knit

 

Cardigan
Long sleeved

 

 

Short Sleeved

 

Pullmover

 

Dressy

 

 

Other (Specify)

 

G. SPORTSWEAR
Slacks

 

 

Slims

 

 

Toreador or Capri pants T

 

Be rmuda Shorts 8

 

 

 

Jamaica Shorts T

 

 

 

 

84

 

 

Category No. .Name of Name of Brand Cost
Fiber Fabric Name Purchased Made

 

SPORTSWEAR - Cont‘d.
Short Kilt

 

Ski pants

 

Ski jacket

 

Bathing suit

 

Other (list)

 

Gym shorts

 

_ H. .HOSIERY
Nylons
Dressy (tinted,

 

 

dress sheer]

 

Regular

 

Heavy casual (colore d)

 

Knee length

 

Tights

 

Socks .. T
Knee length

 

Ankle length

 

I. SHOES
Evening pumps

 

 

Evening sandals

 

Fabric shoe 3 (colored)

 

 

Dress Heels

 

Illusion Heels
(and Stacked)

 

 

Squash Heels

 

Flats

 

Oxfords
Duty or lab

 

Saddle W

 

Loafers

 

 

Bucks

 

 

 

 

 

Desert Boots

 

 

 

IImMmummmmnmummumuwiuillliifili

48057