1:1 \ 1 1 11 "111k ‘11‘ 11 1 11 1 11 11 1 '_.—/#_. 7,, — 11 1 1 1 1 1 \ 1. 1 1 11 1 11 1I 1 1 l 1 11 11111 111 11 111 11 1 1 1 1 1 1.111 ‘1 H01; I-PN (JD-44> WE FAWER’S ROLE 2N RELATION TO ma CLO?H1NG Ci: FARM 3AfiAiLi-ES Thai: for the Douro. of M. A. MICHEGAN STATE COLLEGSE Atheism Sahaid W33 ”La "x ' m, ‘- - l ‘J‘;‘n‘ 1 6170 . if 1111111111111 » 3 129312!5 «W , — rd - M.— " — H E ‘ 711 ,. 1 7- 1 , 1 This is to certtfg that the thesis entitled 1' The Father's Role in Relation to the . Clothing of the Farm Family ' . :2 l presented by . Athelene Scheid . 1 1 has been accepted towards fulfillment Z ' ‘ of the requirements for ‘- M.A. . Textiles & Clothing degree 1n 1'1 1.9214L4x1[,623-:fi]é;;;1§;A~/,’ ‘ ; ajor professor I‘ r I Date May 18, .1953 : 1 ‘I 0-159 1, . W V if T I {1 g: g ‘11 1 .1 '31; ‘1 1 ~ 1‘ _ 1 1- .1 1 “.11 I 1 THE FATHSK'S ROLE IN hELATION TO THE CLOmfilHG OF FARM FAMILIES By Athelene Scheid A THQS S 1—. Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan State College of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of EASTSH OF AhTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related.Arts 1953 kw .1. 1111:3115 .7 -xCuuL/‘T 41);}. Lia‘s The writer wi is: 33 to express her sincere appreciation to miss nary C..M1itlock, Associate Professor of'lex'i and Clothing 1250-11 unCer whose stimulatingg LliCa careful supervision tlis study was undertaken. Sue is llLerS” indebt ted to liss hazel . Stranan, head of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts for h r valuable help in writing this tnesis. Grateful ackno cq~meno is given.hr. G?9§0FJ Stone Of the Je artment of SociolOé" and.nntnr0polo;g'for his inspira- tion and :uidance oi the typoloeg‘stuuy. The writer also *esires to e reress her gratitude to the thirty fathers who answereu the interview uestions. CL: 11;?» t: or. hand nrw m.--. "1 1".."-'1*7' I. letlu'uJul Ul‘ ELLCUJLLJAL... 111' 1 ,‘1 '1' 7f" '11‘1111. 'I‘ ‘ LA.-J.LJ,.: (/l' CU’-J—LJ-JLJJ»D II . iiJJIlJ.-'J' Cl Ll‘l'ct‘u'thin, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , --'r ’.’,“"I Tim ~-. ."1.‘\ : 1.331”) ill. . l'lulllC'uQ 13-July} rlub'uudultfi. , . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . Interview Schedule............... 4‘ .L selQCtion O CO‘Un-t3'oooeoooooooooo ( Selection of Sample.............. . 3] ‘l 1‘] . DISC‘UJSIQQJ bi‘ i1:..JIl-.13 o e o o o e e o o e e o o o o 0 V VI '-. - A _ _ D 11.1.1; (ii-mini AEELJDIX bbg‘d” 1‘I_g_,‘fi _: r, T“ W. ' .. L. ' r- rinancin‘ ramild Clotnlnb........ Participation in Family Clothing, \ Attituces Toward Fanily Clothinr I Social Value of Clotting......... influence on Family Clothin: Pract :1" Personal Clothing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $J?01053 of Father Roles in Family . "‘1 .a-‘I "‘4-00....0.0.0.0000.0.000.000.0000 . GSLLnALIZLTIChS Aha CC CLUJICLS......- 1* o ractices. ClotLin? 1-4 H F" 1*J Cr" ’ C) 1 _ PC: 1’" n c 27 31 33 39 T‘- V' I I “v . ILVJ. . LloT OE Tnchs PAGE Participation in Planning and Purchasing.Activities.. Activities Related to Family Clothing Needs,,,,,,,,,...... 2b [\J U" 1 Participation in Routine Rotivities..,,.........,....,.... f\) \0 Father's Expressed Reactions to Clothes'Worn.............. Members of Family'Complimented and Teased.,.,..,....,,.,.. )0 Quantity and Quality of Family Clothing................... 3l Hearing Clothes not in Fashion,1gade-Over , Hand—he-Downs. 3h banilj-On Im1:)ortallceao.ooo00.000.00.00000000000.00.000000000 36 LU _\] Effect of Rural Living on Clothes Vern.................... b) (*3 Familylfii bar Chos:n to Be ”all Dressed................... ApprOpriateness of'fiork Clotnes for Various Ccoasions.,.,. L2 i“) "L‘)-:“- ~ -. - v 1‘ V'V'f-zo '\ ' 1‘.C‘ L. ”LEVI-L'JD-t—L‘dll 0L L“~’Qr-"Un&.\—Qooooooooooooo-oooooooooooo 0...... LL TJpe Determination According to hesponses,,_,.,.....oo.... A; f‘v-f\ ‘w ..'.L' — ,7. “ 2-.- .. -- 4 .. v . L ,3 ,. '. ' 1105-1. ulV: €11le 1H3 ”Tr: all/1; its. £1114. . O.L k; V 4".“ 'u Crl.i COVVI‘t i131 ‘C.VlOl‘ .1 m? Wtw~=~ w~+y3w~ ‘ “—5 ~‘-*-‘- dd '~—~~‘c-v-‘-Qooooococoon-oooocoooo00.000000000000000 ‘v . r3 . l.‘ - (V -‘ 1") fl .‘l'. ~—, O |‘ )1 -, Q 1‘ fl 2 4 I‘D" (-Ih—l idi)"’ l“£—'-Q'U-‘L—O*L‘)}‘li’to.oO...0.0.0.0000...000000.00... «L normal Education and Type nelationslip.,.,....,.,,.,.,,,,, Lt Loncth of Present Residence in leer U] 0 O O STAThLEnT OF THE PhOBLEM The role of the father in relation to the clothing of the family was selected for this study because the writer felt a wideSpread neglect or indifference as to the masculine viewpoint concerning family clothing. Reason for this seeming oversight may be that educational programs in clothing, whether pertaining to individual or family clothing, have been planned and taught by women and for the main part have been limited to feminine participators. Evidence of this will be found in school curricula and programs of Federal agencies such as the Agricultural Extension Service. The result has been greater emphasis on clothing for women with , minimum emphasis on men's attitudes, preferences or interest in clothing. Evidence of the changing concept of clothing, its meaning and use, is indicated by an awakening interest in clothing on the part of men. They are more articulate in complaints, quality differences, interest in new fabrics and the asethetic aspects of their own clothing. Social change resulting from recent wars have brought about new practices in the home. Husbands are participating in homemaking activities to compen- sate for time Spent by the wife working outside the home. As men's contacts with family clothing problems have increased, so has their interest and contributions. That men and boys function in family clothing practices can hardly be refuted for they’too, are the wearers of clothing as well as members of the family group. In fact Linton states that: Membership in the unit [family] entails upon the individual Specific rights and duties with regard to other members and also a series of rather clearly defined attitudes.l Considering the sociolOgical implications of the above statement this undevelOped area of the ways and the extent in which the masculine members function or influence family clothing behavior seems worthy of consideration. I The father was the member of the family selected for this study because as a parent his role is well defined and his position in the . family is one of significant influence. The term "role" refers to the actual performance of his function as husband and parent. Thus the present study was designed to investigate the character and extent of his interest and participation in the area of family clothing. The Specific objectives may be stated as follows: 1. To determine the father's attitude with reference to financing family clothing expenditures. 2. To become acquainted with his actual participation in the cloth- ing activities of the family such as planning, buying and care. 3. To determine to what extent he influenced the clothing prac- tices of family members regarding clothes worn and purchases made. h. To learn his attitude toward practices of family members in terms of their planning, purchasing, care and use of clothing. 1 Ralph Linton, The Study of Man. new York: D. Appleton-Century 00., p. 152, 1936. 5. To become acquainted with his awareness regarding the social value clothing has for himself and his family. 6. To determine to what extent he is aware of the reactions members of his family have toward his personal clothing as well as his own reactions. In objectives one through five the reactions are directed from the father toward the individual family members or the family as a unit. Only objective Six inquired into the reactions on the part of family members toward the father. In either case the role of the father is established according to his interpretation. Inasmuch as the writer of this study is an extension clothing specialist, the farm family was selected as the medium for investigation. Exploratory work of this nature could contribute to a better understand- ing of the clothing problems of rural families. £7“ hBVlifl OF LlTEhATUnd As there are no Specific research projects reported in literatu e on the father's role in the area of family clothing this review will deal with the interaction of socio-psychological factors as evidenced by the father's role in relation to clothing the family and with the definition of terms. In defining the term "role", authors of social studies1 are in general agreement that it represents the dynamic aspect of a status. Status, in turn, is defined as a position in a particular pattern accompanied by rights and duties. To clarify confusion which has deveIOped pertaining to the use of the word "role" Walter Coutu (10) makes a distinction between role-playing and role—taking. Role-playing refers to performing the functions of the role. It involves behavior, performance, conduct, overt behavior. hole— plaring is a strictly sociological con'ept in which one does not pretend anything, is not related to social distance, and means acting like oneself. Role-taking, on the other hand, refers to mental or cognitive or empathic activity, and is a strictly psychological concept in which one pretends he is another person. It is significantly and necessarily related to social distance. In this study the use of the word "role” refers to role-playing on the part of the father. . v 1' V 1 Ralph Linton, 9p. cit., p. llh; N. F. Coburn, Sociology, Cambridge, Mass.: The Riverside Press, IQLO, p. 307. John Cillin, Tle hays of Len, new Ior<: Appleton~Century-Crofts, Inc. lQhC, p. 3th. The family unit as used in this study conforms to the definition given by Burgess and Locke (9). A group of persons united by the ties of marriage, blood, or adOption; constituting a single household; interacting and communicating with each other in their reSpective roles of husband and wife, mother and father, son and daughter, brother and sister; and creating and maintain- ing a common culture.1 A number of statements made by F. H. Allen in an article on the "Dynamics of Roles as Determined in the Structure of the Family" (1) are considered of significant importance to quote. The family structure is . . . the indiSpensable unit of all social organization throughout the history of man. The family gains this dynamic Significance for human nature because, in its functioning, a setting is provided for the definition and conservation of human differences given objective form in the different but related roles of father—mother- child, the basic roles in any culture. holes had a more fixed status in primitive cultures. . The modern parent has more freedom to define his own way of living the role. Consequently he gains a different feeling of responsibility and of individual ownership for what is achieved. Similarily Burgess and Locke state that familial roles are almost inevitable in a state of flux in a changing and culturally heterogeneous society such as our modern American society. Thus many time-honored roles have been made obsolete.3 l E. W. Burgess and H. J. Locke. The Family, New York: American Book Co., l9h5, p. 5. 2 F. H. Allen, "Dynamics of Roles as Determined in the Structure of the Family", American Journal of Orthgpsychiatgy, l2: l9h2, pp. 127—8, 3 E. W. Burgess and h. J., 9p” Eli}: p. 515. The father's role in the American family, according to Geoffrey Gorer,(l9) has been one of rejected authority ever since the birth of the nation. The more successful the immigrant father was in turning his children into Americans, the less important he became as a model and guide. However, the immigrant mother was not rejected, so she became the dominant parent in the family. Data resulting from a study made by the Research Bureau of America (lb) of both male and female college students investigating the influence of the family, school and church upon the child, re-enforces Gorer's vieWpoint about parental authority. Fifty-seven percent of the group interviewed stated their mothers had more to say about their upbringing, whereas only twenty-seven percent indicated that the father had more to say than the mother. Fourteen percent divided parental authority equally between father and mother. Nearly one-half of the children who came from mother-dominated families expressed the wish that their father have more authority; whereas almost none of the children from homes where the father's authority outweighed that of the mother, expressed desire for a change. The adolescent seemingly wants the father to regain some of his lost status. That "little is known about what fathers usually do for their children in the home"1 was the conclusion Pearl Gardner reached after surveying literature on "fatherhood". She made this survey preparatory 1 Pearl L. Gardner, "A Survey of the Attitudes and Activities of Fathers", Pedagpgical Seminary and Journal of Genetic Psychology, 63: 19143, p. 17. to two studies dealing with father-child relationships. In the first study (lo) three hundred fathers were interviewed for the purpose of investigating the nature of their various activities and attitudes in relation to their parental duties in the home. Results showed the father- hood pattern to be one in which material provision was taken for granted, companionship and understanding were emphasized, discipline and Obedience were decreasing in importance, and character traits were important but not evaluated. Three findings of Gardner's study bear a relationship to this study. She found fathers were relatively impartial in their affections. Forty- eight percent teased their children in rather unwholesome ways two-thirds of the time. Eleven percent performed routine activities in dressing and undressing the children. The second study by Gardner (1?) dealt with parental attitudes from the standpoint of the children. A questionnaire was given three hundred eighty-eight children in the fifth and sixth grades. Results showed that both boys and girls "disliked the same things in their father, namely punishment, general irritability, poor adjustment with the mother, and absence from home." They "desired similar things, such as an allowance more money, more freedom to play and go to shows, and more conversation A with father."‘ In regard to the father's teasing, the girls objected in part, to the fact that for the girls somewhat less than the boys: due, 1 Ibid., p. 30. 2 Pearl L. Gardner, "An.Analysis of Children's Attitudes Towards Fathers", Bedagogical Seminary and Journal of_Genetip_P§ychglogy, 70: 1912.7, p. 20. 3 V1 his teasing was more often a way of showing affection. In the case of services children of en required of their parents, the father was pre- ferred for fixing a broken toy and as a source of money. Two trends in family ritual of interest to the present study were shown by Bossard and Boll (3) in their comparison of autohiOgraphies of individuals living betr een lt 00-1917 and universitj'students born since 1917. These autobiographies show family present—giving has increased numerically and in formality. Father—child appointments were develOping into a ritualistic sched 3. Both are seen emerging as a result of the decrease in the amount of time family members are at home together The role of clothing in family relationships was studied oy hrs. Bernice King (23). Four generalizations have a bearing on this study. T1 ev are quoted below: The role of clothing for the individual is affected by one's early environment and ti aining and chilchood experience frequentlya acting the pro 0 ices and attitu. s of par in dealing with their Childre The rights and privileg es in th a free choice of their own clothing without parental interference is a significant factor in parent and child relationships, but significantly Lore important for the teen-age parent relationship. d in cloth- nt through A pattern of fear of ridicule and shame reflect ing standards and concept of ade cuac is consi all sex and age groups. ('3‘ a; Clothing as such is not so much a cause of family controversy as an eXpression of a more fundamental maladjustment. l hornice King. "A Stuc/ of t1e hole of Clothi n: in Family Re- lationsiips inT wenty-five S lected Fa nailies". Unpublished h. A. Thesis, hichigan State College: p. 115, 191$ Dr. George W. Hartman (21) of Columbia University has said that no one can question that clothing has been, is, and presumably always Will be both a prominent personal problem and a major social issue. he also feels that clothing behavior is a neglected out permanent part of educational and social psychology. As early as 1917 Dr. George Van Ness Dearborn (ll) likewise empha- sized the psychOIOgical value of clothing in these words: . . . one's clothes are one of the important things that intervenes between the individual personality and his en- vironment, and . . . life itself in a sense is a reaction of an individual to his environment.1 The relation of clothing to one's environment has been further develOped in an article by Ernst Harms (20). he states: ‘When we consider the human being in this cultural world . . . his dress is not only the one [cultural form] which is physically closest to him but also that which most immediately «I and most intimately expresses his relation to his environment. It is on [the psycho-sociological level] that the individual makes use of dress in order to fit into his environment. . . . emotion plays its part in the process of adjustment, by which the dress is designed to suit the environment and the individual. And the intellect also participates, to direct the actual choice of what is correct for given circumstances. In her study on social participation Dorothy Dickins (12) has referred to clothing as a type of consumer's goods which is not primarily used for "physical welfare" but rather "psycho-social welfare". She has 1 George V. N. Dearborn. "The Psychology of Clothing", alchological honograph ho. 112, Princeton, n. Y. and Lancaster, Pa.: PsychOIOgical '4 n l"\ 7.- heVioW'oo., lylo, p. h. 2 Ernst harns, "The Psychology of Clothes", American Journal Of Sociology, uh: 193t, p. 239. 3 Ibid., p. 2t7. 10 suggested that social participation be used as a criterion for determin- ing scientific minimum standards in clothing. In another article (13) she further states that clothing is important in the level of living of a family because one of the main reasons given by low-income families for not attending club meetings, church and the like is not having appropriate clothinc. Young girls in the low income families suffer eSpecially from clothing considered inferior by one's associates. The above illustrates that part of the "Theory of the Leisure Class" advanced by Veblen (32) in which he states that "the serviceability of consumption as a means of repute, as well as the insistence on it as an element of decency; is at its best in those portions of the community where the human contact of the individual is widest and the mobility of the pOpulation is greatest." He refers directly to the clothing of rural peOple in stating "so it comes, that the American farmer and his wife and daughters are notoriously less modish in their dress, as well as less urban in their manners, than the city artisan's family with an equal income."l Studies by the Bureau of Labor Statistics (7,8) show that the pattern of family Spending for clothing is higher in farm families up to about the seventeen hundred dollar income level at which point they were equaled and at high levels surpassed by the correSponding expenditures of non-farm families. l T. Veblen. The Theory of the Leisure Class. new York: The Modern Library, 193A, p. {7. 11 Studies of family clothing supplies made by the Bureau of‘Human Nutrition and Home Economics in l9h8-SO (5,6) showed a comparison of the clothing owned and purchased by urban and farm families. ‘he wardrobe of the rural husband and wife was less than that of the city husband and wife, probably because of the lower incomes of farm families and of difference in type of occupation. City men owned half again as much clothing as the farm men, and city women owned nearly fifty percent more clothing than the farm women. Likewise farm families purchase less clothing during a year than the city families. Farm husbands purchased one-fourth less; farm wives, one-third less; and farm boys and girls purchased one-fifth less than their city counterparts. Farm families also bought less expensive clothing than did the city families. Farm husbands paid prices about eighty-two percent as high as those paid by city husbands. Their wives paid prices only about seventy percent as high as those paid by city wives. There was less difference between the prices paid for rural and urban children's clothing than the difference between hose paid by farm and city families for adult clothing. In the book "America's weeds and Resources" Dewhurst and Associates (33) give the following reasons in accounting for lower clothing expendi- tures in rural communities: (a) the different and cheaper type of clothing required for work on farms; (b) the generally lower income levels of farms; (0) the result of more home sewing in farm households; (d) less competitive Spending in farm communities; and (e) the saving patterns of farm families. 12 That the difference in fashionableness of clothing in rural and urban communities is decreasing has been commented upon by E. Sapir and Helen Everett Meiklejohn. Sapir (30) states that were it not "for the necessity of exploiting accumulated stocks of goods these fashions would penetrate into the remotest corners of rural America even more rapidly than is the case."1 heiklejohn (27) says that no longer can "slightly outmoded goods be disposed of in the small towns and villages as advantageously as formerly. The country cousin, the subject of mirth in our mother's generation, has become almost indistinguishable from her city relatives."2 Inasmuch as the father's part in family clothing deals with the various family members it was deemed advisable to include a brief review of the major clothing studies pertaining to the psychological and socio- logical meaning clothing has to individual members of the family. J. C. Flugel conducted his study "On the Mental Attitude of Present Day Clothes" (15) by use of questionnaire in connection with a British broadcasting program. Answers from fifty-five men and seventy-seven women showed a greater dissatisfaction with men's clothing than women's in reSpect to excessive weight and amplitude, to greater bodily restric- tion and to the relatively colorlessness of the garb. A distinct majority were Opposed to a uniform as national dress and favored work clothes being attractive. l E. Sapir. "Fashion". Enqyclgpedia of the Social Sciences. 6: 1931, p. lh3. , 2 Helen Everett heiklejohn. Section VI. "Dresses-—The Impact of Fashion on a Business". walton Hamilton and Associates, Editors. Price and Price Policies. hew York: .McGraw-hill Book Co., 1938, p. 325. 13 A companion study was made by Eva Macaulay (26) on the attitudes of children toward dress. One hundred twenty-two girls and one hundred eighty-three boys between the ages of six and fifteen years were asked three subjective questions. Their answers regarding party clothes re- vealed that the desire for brilliantly colored and highly ornated garments decreased with increasing years, and design became more important. Among young adolescents the wish to diSplay the body was in conflict with their sense of modesty. For everyday wear the younger children suggested clothes that would not show dirt, and those over eleven years of age sug- gested bright and cheerful-looking clothes. Strong dislikes were ex- pressed for stiff and unyielding clothes, and woolens that scratch, tickle and are too hot. The clothing study made by Elizabeth hurlock (22) was devised to find the motives which guided peeple in their subjection to fashion and its changes. One thousand four hundred fifty-two individuals in high schools and colleges answered the questionnaire. Findings which directly or indirectly relate to the present study are: (a) More peeple dress for their own sex or both sexes than for the Opposite sex.alone. (b) Adol- escents dressed to please their own sex, while adults wanted to please both. (c) Adolescence proved to be the period of life in which clothes assume greatest importance. (d) To the majority dress is not used as a symbol of the financial status of the wearer nor is fashion followed so as to appear equal to those of high status, or to give the impression that they are people of leisure. (e) Becomingness of colors is more important to women while for men usefulness and cost are considerably more dominate. (f) Both select their clothing to bring out their best features, but twice as many women as men use clothing to cover certain defects. (g) The desire for novelty was the most important motive in bringing about change in fashion. (h) Girls wanted to avoid criticism and boys wanted to avoid appearance of poverty. (i) The presence of friends or strangers is necessary to stimulate an interest in one's appearance. For boys and girls, friends proved to be more influential; and strangers, for men and women. Activity of fashion choice was the focus of attention for the clothing study made by Estelle DeYoung Barr (2). She gave her question- naire to a group of three hundred fifty-four college students, dress- makers, costume designers and adults not technically interested in clothing. Results showed conformity to the dress of the group to be the most common and universal motive. Desire to be beautiful was closely related. Comfort was likewise considered very important, whereas less importance was given to the desire to express personality. A negative attitude was expressed toward dressing to appear prOperous. Silverman's study (31) was devised to find out what high school girls think about clothing and appearance. As the age range coincides with the "teen-age girl" stipulation in the composition of the family in this study findings are of Special interest. Results are based on three hundred seventy-three questionnaires. Girls, regardless of whether they are twelve or eighteen years of age, attach considerable significance to clothing and appearance. They are interested in what constitutes attrac- tiveness and in finding out what is fashionable. Appearance to them is 15 subject to change at the will of the individual. Desire for approval was a factor influencing their selections. Items that did not allow the girls to express individuality tended to be rejected. host of the girls wanted their clothes to appeal to boys, to conform to their father's taste, to represent a compromise between their own and mother's preferences, and to be approved by their friends. There is a wideSpread notion that women buy most of men‘s clothes and that the man who wears them has little to say about their selection. The study “Men's Preferences Among Selected Clothing Items" (h) indicates that only in the case of robes and pajamas do men select less than half of the garments they wear. Men showed the highest degree of independence in buying extra trousers. Almost four in five men said they selected these garments themselves. Likewise three-fourth of the men selected most of their business shirts. This latter figure was somewhat less for men in the rural north. Regarding the purchase of sock , underwear and sport shirts six in ten men made their own selections. This data is based on 2 508 interviews and re resents the references of all men sixteen years 3 p p u old and over in the United tates. lb METHODS Ahu PhOCEDUhE IththbN SCHiDULE The personal interview was selected as the method for collecting data as it was highly desirable to Obtain the father's Opinions in re- Spect to certain clothing inquiries without his having discussed or fl} received suggestions from other family members. his method also insured more accurate and adequate information, a better sampling of the general population, and high percentage of returns. In the construction of the interview schedule three types of ques— tions were used. The dichotomous questions were designed to elicit a reSponse of "yes" or "no", often to be followed by an explanatory reason. Open-end questions were employed to give the reSpondent free latitude in his responses and multiple choice questions were used to express degrees of Opinions. As this study investigates a previously unexplored area of family clothing it was deemed advisable to obtain an over-all view of the father's role rather than to develOp Specific information within a more limited scope. Thus the schedule was designed to include the various family functions as they are manifested in clothing behavior. The father interacts with other family members in various roles in which clothing plays a part. he may function in any or all of the follow- ing ways. he may provide the monew, be the purchaser or be a recipient of clothing. he may assist with or counsel regarding clothing. he may be 17 a disciplinarian or teacher/trainer. he functiOns both as an individual user of clothing and as benefactor of his family's clothing. The inter- view schedule was planned to cover these roles as well as to secure ex- pression of his interest in and satisfactions resulting from these interactions. The schedule composed of sixty-six questions related to family clothing expenditures, purchases, care, home sewing, health-safety factors, clothing gifts, the importance of fashion as well as social values of clothes for himself and his family. Questions were designed to cover sociological, psychological, physiological, economic and asethetic aSpects of clothing. The arrangement of questions within the schedule followed no obvious order, although those pertaining to a particular phase were grouped, when possible, to assure continuity of thinking. Ease of transi- tion was of paramount consideration in setting up the interview schedule. The first three questions were designed to orient the father's thinking toward family clothing. "Buying" was selected to introduce the schedule as it was thought men would have more concrete information re- garding this phase of clothing. Inversely, questions which sought atti- tudes were placed toward the end. Throughout, questions were asked which pertained to his own clothing so that he would think of himself as a member of the family group. The interview schedule underwent two revisions. Four initial pre- test interviews yielded major revisions. A second pre-test included five cases which yielded results ictating minor changes in the schedule. Finally three additional pre—test interviews using the revised schedule demonstrated its adequacy. Eight of the twelve pre-test interviews duplicated the conditions stipulated in the sampling. The schedule re- quired an anticipated twenty-five to thirty minutes to administer. The thirty interviews for this study were secured between duly 6—20, 1951. Following each interview the responses given were fully amplified. before proceeding to the next interview. The interviews were made upon ’rst contact only with none secured by previous appointment. The father was interviewed alone except in three cases when small children were around for part of the time. (”5* ”A1":- ~" ,1 “.2 f‘ " "TA "i' QALLJ-” gift; CE .LAiAJ \J{)L.‘...L_L hillsdale Countg'located in the central section of the lowest tier of southern counties in Michigan was selected for this study. Sel:ction was made upon the advise of members of the Legartment of Sociolorv and - I -Jo) Agricultural hxtcnsion Service. Factors detc"minin: this choice wer2 1. high rural pepulation compared to urban. 2. Ethnic group of early American stock. . Sufficient number of farms to insure adequate sampling. E‘KJJ Location within hundred mile radius of Last Lansing. U7 . Previous surveys concucted in the county by hichigan State College. a. County considereo representative of southern l-Lichigan . f“ u- \r“ W" ‘ r'1"_‘ P" "*:“ 'H :nhLCfiLm U: inn se, education or length of residence. GdfinthlZATIOKJ hid COKCLU"ICN3 Significant observations of the father's role in relation to Clothing of thirtv farm families revealed many attitudes a wide range 3 of interest and a low degree of participation. here universal agreement was expressed pertaining to the financial aspects of family clothing than other aspects. Attitudes toward financ- ing and equity in distribution of family clothing expenditures revealed a relatively hirh degree 0 satisfication with current family practices. 7 Clothing was regard d as a cash commodity and money allocated for it's (1) purchase was considered to be family earned 'ncome. Lack of active participation in decision-making and knowledge of total family clothing expenditures was evident. Interest in meeting family clothing needs was reflected by aware- ness and evaluation of potential clothing needs. Activities involving satisfying these needs were considered the reSponsibility of other members of the family. Influence in changing the clothing practices of the family was achieved t rough constructive suggestions rather than corrective or disciplinary measures. hodifications in family clothing practices recommended were improvetent in care of clothing, the purchase of quality merchandise and exercising economy measures. Attitudes toward clothing for the family showed understanding of the social significance of clothing. Clothing was not considered an indicator of financial status. Total requirements and expenditures for clothing was recognized as lower in rural communities than in urban centers. The standard for "dress-up" clothes of rural families was re- garded as ecuivalent to that of urban families. Fathers appreciated the interest shown by family members in his own clothes and appearance. he showed less concern, however, for his personal clothing proclgms than for those of his family. The role of an individual in a particular area can be adequately oetermired through the use of relevant questions in personal interviews. This interview schedule amply covered the father's behavior in re- lation to family clothing as he offered no additional ways in which he functioned nor has an omission or unbalance been apparent to the writer. Tue method of sampling was satisfactory in that approximately fifty percent of the fanilies in the county who qualified were interviewed. Another measure of the adequacy of the sample is the fact that there were case studies for each of the four categories in the type determination study . Administration of the interview schedule indicated: (a) that the equence of questions facilitated easy transition from one thought to the next, with the preceding question not making later answers obvious: and (b) that the schedule was prodabl; ) I too long as weariness was noted when the interview was about four-fifths completed. Schedule revisions recommended are: (a) whenever feasible, to phrase questions as to yield overt and covert behavior; (b) to be more Specific in the interpretation given "fashion" and (c) to inquire more \dt‘i C} Specifically auout routine activities as well as how individual family .' “‘3 _ ,\_' n: ax," ,g‘ . -— n w vL‘ '- -. 1 an manners ostcincn LUHCJ ior Cletnin3 pure Ileana. ‘ This so he dule w: th some revision would u: applieaele to role V eternination of other n'mier s oi the irril,. Aia Mt ation of the schedule LL would render it useatle in d ternininfi the role of an individual as re- ‘ - 1 n1 veale1 ey'other than the one Lein3 inter Viewed. ihe role of an individual could be investigated h; interviewing the individual himself and anothe fl regardine his functions, thus Sirving to a allily or check the content of The role of an individual in relation to areas of family behavior, other than clothing, could oe similarly investigated. It is highly recommended tiat a study designed to explore the role of an ilk ‘Jividu 1 ea accompanied by‘a type determination analysis. \Jl —\'J o 10, 11. \H K] 7 ‘T' a “"1 DlJLiQkLfiL-fuf t Allen, F. H, "Dynamics of no les as Determined in the Structure of the Family", 1mcrican Jo u.1r mil of Orthogsgchiatry. 12: pp. lLO-lt?, l9cl. Barr, E L "J sycbolo:ical Mr-l~ is of r'asnion 1ou1vatior 1rcn1ves of Psychologz. 2o: pp, 5-100, l93L. Sossard, James H. S. and Aleanor S, boll. Ritual in Familv Liv in:. Philadelphia: Univ. of Penn. Press, 1930, Bureau of Agricultural Economics. hen's Prefererces [monJ Selected Clottin;_ltcrs, United States Department of n griculture, wasn- ington, D. C. Liscallane us Put lication 70¢,1919, iunan 11 utrition and Home Lconomios. Farm Family Clotlin" ries anc a arm-Cit‘ Comparison, Unitea States uoo““tmcnt ' k‘T1UulUUJ al nosearcn fdministration, Washington, fa1zilx clotlin; supnlies Preliminar neport Bureau of Human nutrition and Home Economics. Farm Family Clothin~ Purchases and a Farm-Cit; Co yaris n, United States Letaruienu of Agriculture, Agricultural nesearch.ACministration, Washington, D. C. Studies of family clothing supplies Preliminary neport no. {, April 1953. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Sneniinw and Savinrr of tile Lation‘s Families in.Wartine, Uniteo States ubyuitr ent of Laoor, United States Government Printing Office, E'as 11ington, D. C. Bulletin 723, lBUZ, Bureau of Labor Statistics, Income and Spending and Saving of City Families in Wartime, United States Department of Labor, United States Government Printing Office, Washington, D, C. bulletin 72b, 19L2. Burgess, E. W, and H. J. Locke. The Famill. new York: American book Co., l9h5. Coutu, Walter. "Role-Playing vs, hole-Taking". American Sociological Review. 16: pp. lLO—lt9, 1951. Dearborn’ Georqe van “655- "The Psychology of Clothipa", PEICLo: lo gical nonofranh no. llg, Frinccton, n, I, anu Lancaster, r lsycnological heview C0,, 1918. (L7 .- 12. 15. 16. 17. SS Dickins, Dorothy. "Social Participation as Criterion for Determin- ina Scientific minimum Standards in Clothing". Rural Sociolo:y. 9: pp. 3111-3119, 19211. Dickins, Dorothv. "noxe hanagement and Family Level of Living". Journal of Home Economics, 37: pp, 13-18, l9b5. Drucher, Doris. lt2: pp, 27 J. british Jou "Luthority For Our CLildrcn". haroer‘s Magazine. o-ZCZ, 19L1. C. "Cn the Mental Attitude to Present Day Clothes", rnal of Iedical Psychology, 9: pp. 97-1h9, 1929. Gardner, Pearl L Fathers", 03: pp. 15 Gardner, Pearl L Fathers". , "A Survey of the Attitudes and Activities of Pedagogical Serinary and Journal of Gene ic Psychology. -53, 19143 o , "An Analysis of Children's Attitudes Towards Pedagoxical Seminary and Journal of Genetic PSycLology. ~1— 70: pp, 3- 1".1 .7' '1 do, liui. Gillin, John. ‘he Ways of Men. new fork: Appleton-Century—Crofts, liht. Corer, Geoffrey, Library, 19 The fimerican Peogle, new York: The hodern 3h. narns, Lrnst. "The Psychology of Clothes", nmerican uournal of Sociology. nartman, Geo. W. JOurnal of Lb: pa. 239-250, 193C. "Clothing: Personal Problem and Social Issue", iome Economics. bl: pp. 295-29t, 19h9. hurlock, blizaoe Psg'cluoler, King, Bernice. ships in Twenty-five Selected Fanilics". Unflublished h, A, TLesis, hic * homarovsky, hirr Dryden Pres Linton, Ralph. th 5. Wiotivations in Fashion". chhives of 17: pp, 1-71, 1929. "A Study of the hole of Clothinfi in Family Relation- . higan State College, l9h9. a, The Unemployed Man and 118 Family. Few ork: s, Inc., liLO. The Study of Han, new lork: D. Appleton-Century 00., 1930. Macaulay, E. uritish Jou "Some notes on the Attitudes of Children to Dress". rnal of Medical PsycholoSy, 9: pp. 150-158, 1929. 59 27. heiklejohn, Helen Everett. Section VI. "Dresses-—The Impact of Fashion on a Business". Hamilton, Walton and Associates, Editors. Price and Price Policies, new York: McCraw-Hill Book Co., 193:. 1 28. Ogburn, W. F. Sociology, Cambridge, Mass.: The Riverside Press, 19hO. 29. Parten, hildred. Surveys, Poll, and S qples, new York: narper and brothers, 1950, 30. Sapir, E. "Fashion". Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences. 6: pp. 139-luL, 1931. 31. Silverman, Sylvia. Clothing and Appearance. New York: Bureau of A Publications Teachers College, Columbia University, 19US. 32. Veblen, T. The Theory of the Le'snre Class. new York: The Modern Librari, 1931. 33, William, Faith h. and Louis Weiner. Chapter 7. "Clothing,.Access- ories and Personal Care". Dewhurst and Associates, Editors. America's need and hesources. hew'York: The Twentieth Century Fund, 1927. f 11‘ P311131}; TH; FLThin'S hOLE IN hnLLTICN TU TH; CLOTHIhG OF TH; FAAN FAHILY. Interview ho. _ Date 'Where held Time Good.Morning or How do you do! I'm Athelene cheid and I've come to ask you to talk with me about clothing the family. usually the wife or mother is consulted on these matters, however I'm interested in becoming acquainted with the part the man of the family takes in clothing. 'Would you be willing to answer a few questions? I'm also interested in working only with families who receive at least three-fourths of their income from the farm, so of necessity my first question must be--do you earn at least three-fourths of your income from the farm? how we can talk about the family clothing. 1. In your family who do you think is most interested in clothes? 2. Suppose you had an unexpected extra hundred dollars, and you decided to Spend it for clothing for the family, what would you buy them? 3. Let's Suppose you'd like to Spend this hundred dollars on clothes hat' ton coat overalls shirts - dress suit trousers everyday work shoes jacket clothes T h. Some families consult the father about clothing purchases and others do not. In your family are members likely to consult you aoout the Clothing the; buy? .111._.1_ .. 1.95 1:0 If "yes" - About what articles in Earticular do they ask your Opinion? Would you like to be consulted more often? Always am Ies no If "yes" - About what? A '1 Lo (0 (L If "no" - Would you like to be consulted? 15—— If "yes" - About what? If "no" — Why? Some men like to ShOp; others would rather not. Do you usually go with members of your famil; when they buy clothes for themselves? Ies no If "yes" - With whom? For what? If ”no" - Would you like to? Do members of your family shOp with you when you are buying your own clothes? Yes ho If "yes" - Who shops with you? For what? Do you like to have them? Yes NO If "no" - would you like to have them? YeS' no If "yes" - Who? For what? If "no" - Why do you like to buy your clothes by yourself? Do you ever Suyyest to anyone in the family that he or she buy some- thing new to Wear? ' Ies no 5; If "yes" - What kind of ”arment are you likely to suggest? About tow often would you say you suggest a purchase-- occasionally or frequently? Is your suggestion usually followed? Yes Ho Often SO-SO Seldom Sometimes f "no" - Would vou like to? Yes ho Q. 10. If "yes" - For whom do you now clot’ .LQ If ‘_ ,. . : . .J-~ p-__ , - .1 .\ r, _ -‘ fi.. Y‘ . '\ s we familie lb may we the man's res OLSlJ s i _“L .—. . ‘ )1 l‘. l', (J . "‘ (- I‘ “I V‘ . . 'r' .-. ‘| ‘ » 0 - I -~ 1 v. .1 . I ‘ V o —: V to- “LulLO Ol Clothing for the LEMllJ, WLlle in there that is W .L w “("3 'fi' " ‘ ’- I""‘. " ‘~\~‘-V- h , ‘4": . - n,‘ ~r w" r'n n - 1 case. so you cCLumllv biz Clobuln% lo an~ heuoer ox 30ur “A 138 3.10 'lity to actuall; so 0 :1 Lb ut how often -- always, Lalf the time, or occasionally? \’ " O" - I"! ‘- .‘V . "1 A 1 . ‘- ’ ”~“: : “ ‘ 1 " 7'." "no - would you like to new; family clothini Lurchsses. Lus L10 Do ;ou eVer just bring clothes none for SOme one in the family because .1. ' O Y .' L; idea occurred to you to buy chem. was no ~" Do familv members like you to do this? any? Yes LO W “ used for gifts in some families, but not in others. Do give gifts of clothing to members of your immedia s family, that and children? 168 no "*es" - Do you select the gift? Yes For what occasion? sirthdeys Imas I ‘ “.- - — ~'. . . " a n . , , ._ _\ a 5. ...‘ H ,. .L‘- “.9 ° 5, -- . .1 .0 n"! 1. ' ,‘ -_- LaVF’ yOll .Cfl'v Lin ~'lL to 0.1. money fJCCiI ..L'.L:; out; o It Us 1.153;; .L DI" 91.0 U1-1.1Al‘j'2 m ~-— “CA ‘ ‘ . f .wfi . . ,Y. . ' ‘ ' a a ...' t" - .3 -~ '. fanilr mehuers ulVd vou cloohin. as ,ilts? ies no .. u e .- . r~ -.,. 1. . “L',‘.\ V”. -, " £354" -' 1J0 you line this pl {Boulez}? foo L.O Sometimes "no" - would you like to have them los no _. . a "HM.“ . 1,. _._ o- ' .. my.-. ,4. . 4.1 - , -y. 1, _ -‘ you eVer DuigJSt that a idmllJ member rot rn a clothing Mur naSb \ U 1’33 ..0 L3 If "no" - have “01 evér wanted to do so? Yes no t) -.. n n _ _ ~r ) "‘_/“L‘\ . ~,' V! ‘fih ‘ -'. ~7- I'N vfi‘.‘ ( 4' I ”I 1L1. , U0 0L1 O}: :83 t TJO <11"; v‘ :iLJmL '41" CI ‘, 0111. .L cumilJ' I‘JQG-J. I“: a. “in; D U I. ' . " '1"~. ~ " W'L‘F'. " \ -r 1 r'. > - r f. 4".r'r‘ or articl, OI clothing, a -eite in style or colon, or auyunihé oi ULso Jature? ”as no 1 i 1 _ ‘.V A ,-. Y"r V1 ., ,, 5‘ p ,q 1'“ V. _ . “It, “melon: d‘d- vL'L/O s Jill! log 0 ‘ ' - D T ,J- um I* L «LL' ,. . n: .L r.+ , out would ii" - uhuu kind OI Lonhlné would Jou O¢J3Lu to their wearing ii they Qiu so? 1", - f‘ ‘ _J "" "~""‘L. 1.1" Ir J. .- ..‘_l‘ _ A). la there any paltij-i r LLn:L of clotl's thub you do not lch to have zchsers Oi yaur family w-;ar in tonn s chains? Yes no ’ , +1 ,v—L .n -. ' a ., 'Y- ' are this; RarM“th worn? Yes n0 0 ‘-~ . -‘. L 4 D 1" . I“ I , .‘I'N‘r‘ry 7': ‘2‘ ‘fi yx to 't 1* |\ . ‘ ‘ lI "night ii tau; diu" - fidut hi u of clot_i Q would VLu obgec t to their we ring in town shoh'ing? - ,x . 1'9 A 0" - - ‘_ h. .,. ‘ ~-.- h n . I.‘ I n a v .V oolc oi fer as 0 what they er i or the an“ occasior. on which v i or work c Gum ”? 4.0 fl 5.; t... Q d O () (D ’1 F. (I) {1) (+- 1, I Q r‘: :2 CA :3 l) H ,4 (.2 3 1 F} C" O (n) b' '1 k“ 0) e, not drive—in. Yes ho +4 (T) (1) oall or other school games. he 4 s. Visiting the neig oors. as no At farmers' meetings Yes no If 5f 23‘ ff :f if I"? If 15‘ if if 17. 23. how let's talk about fashiOI nd clothes a. how do you feel aso ut t1-e n.w clot has your family purchases—- should they follow fa shi ? Yes no b. how important would you say it is for your famigz to follow fashion —-verv important, above average in importance, of average impor ance, slightly important or not important? How important do you feel it is, for the new clothes you bgy for wourszlf to be in fashion? L. Do ”ou feel the family should wear the clothes they have 0 hand which are not in fashion? Yes no I 'ni if? PV‘ ow let's take the matter of made-over clothes and land—me-downs. Does your fa amily wear either of these? Yes no If "no” - Nu“? If "yes" - Nho wears made-overs? Who wears hand-me—downs? How do you feel aoout members of your family wearing made-overs or hand-me-downs? a. These days we hear a lot about the cost of clothing. how do you feel about the total amount of money your family Spends for clothing? 0. Would you like your family to Spend considerably more, soxweuhat more, the same amount, somewhat less or considerably less for clothing? Do ‘0u help decide the amount of money the familv should use for ——-—-—.—_— .——.._.. m—é.‘ f" '- clothes? Yes no If "yes" - how? If "no" - Why? In 1 our famih ris a record kept of the amount s;>ent for clothing? U 135 1:0 If "yes" - Nho keeps the record? Do you know approximately what it costs to clothe the family? Yes he / 2c. 27. 29. fi.—/ \J) Do you feel that anyone in four family should have more of the family money used for his or ha clothes? Yes no If "yes" — Who? Do you discuss this with members of the family? Yes lx‘AO Is there anyone you thim k should have 1555 used for his or her clothes? Yes ho If "yes" - Who? Do y udiscuss this wi m1 memoers of the family? Yes no a, Ify our family should find it necessary to practiw gr reater clothing economy in the future, in what way do you thin nk family memoers could oest help? 5, Would you say by selecting different kinds of clothing, by pur- chasing fewer clothes, by selecting better quality clothing, by paying less for them or perhaps in some other way? Different kinds Better quality Others Fewer clothes Paying less Would you mind telling me how you arranoe to 1wa e clothin3 purchases paid for-~with cash, cy check, cy use of char 3e account, or by use of the lay-away plan? with cash Charge account Others by check Lay-away plan also interested in knowing how the money to be Spent for clothing is made available to each member of the family who is old enough to purc‘uase clothing. Do family members ask you for the money as clothing apparel is needed? or Ire faznily m;mcers given an alloxm n ce from which they must buy their 010 thing? or - Is clothing paid for from a common checking account? or In any other way or combination of these ways? Some peeple notice clothes and comment about them, some do not. I'm wondering if you tell members of your family that ypu like their clothes or that they look nice or pay them some such compliment? Sometimes Yes no 3 30. 32. 3h. 35. 36. If "‘es or sometimes" - Who? What are you likely to compliment them on? Do you ever 101cc with members of the family about their clothes, or ~33 them about what they are wee rin:? Yes ho What do you joke or tease about? Do you find it necessar r at times to scold amember of the family about what he or she is wearing? Yes ho If "yes" - Who? About what? Chillren ofte en need remi ndin3 to chan3e their clothes, to tie their shoe laces and the like, Do you do this sort of thing? Yes No If "yes" - ! oout how 0 to n do you do th Some peOple think t1at certain kin(ls of clothing are healthy or un- 1e “ltlv have you ever been concerned aoout the relation of clothin3 to the1;ealth of any member of your family? Ies ho If "yes" - What? scarfs, or Do you ever insist that the children weir raincoat e ? e no 5 3 rubbers when going outdoors in rainy w ether 5 If "yes" — arms? 7-7 a 911 inf? a. The problem of S'-fetr concerns some peOple more than others V ‘__.i_l. have you ever been concerned about the clothina of your family from a safety angle? Ies ho For whom? b. What about your own clothes in relation to safety? Do you hrow of farm or h me accidents which were caused by wearing the wrong kind of clothes? Ye ho 37. 33;. kl.) \L) 0 DO. 111 . L2. :37 If "yes" - has this helped you prevent accidents? I-G‘ es 1:0 If "yes" - In what ways? hen may or may not heln around the house with clothin3. When th . ,J --7'-;-“~;— ‘ ‘ 1 1.) children were young old you help to dress or undress them. lbs 110 (N If ""35" - Would you say you helped regularly, frequently, or «I occasionally? Do you help with the care of clothing —- like carrying out the basket of wet clothes on wash day, shining shoes for the family, pressing your own trousers or in any other ways that you think of? Yes no Sometimes Used to If "yes" - what? How often? If "no" —'th do you think you do not help? If "sometimes" - What are you most apt to help with? Do you think members of your family could take better care of their clothing? Yes no D I "yes" - Who? In what ways? ‘ '. e ways in which the family could better care for your If "yes" — In what ways? Would the family like you to take better care of your 02 clothes? Yes no haybe Don't know If "yes", or "maybe" - In what ways? now the questions are about sewing in the home. Do you have a sewing machine in your family? Ies o If "no" - What is the reason? ho. A7. for fa Mmil; use? If "no" -Do you feel this sewing machine is adeqxate Q ood enougil) iQS 1.0 -In what way is it not adequate? Do you thing a new machine is na3