BUYING PRACTECES FOR SPEC IF {ED APPAREL ITEMS OF FIFTY COLLEGE GIRLS Thesis {0} ”10 Degree 0‘ M A. MECHEGAN STATE UNIVERSE“ Blossom Church Engen 1957 Milulllllllzllfllljflflllflllllfljllllzllflflflllill' LIBRARY Michigan State University ‘ TV This is to certify'that the , thesis entitled Buying Practices for bpecified Apparel Itemsof Fifty College Girls presented by :iossom bngen has been accepted towards fulfihnent of the requirements for M.A. degree in Textiies EcClLothing Major rofe'ssor ' BUYING PRACTICES FOR SPECIFIED APPAIinLL ITEMS OF FIFTY COLLEGE GIRLS (An Abstract) By Blossom Church Engen The purpose of this survey was to investigate the buying practices of fifty college sophomores at Emmanuel Missionary College and to deter- mine satisfactions and dissatisfactions derived from five specified gar- ments, namely blouses, skirts, winter coats, "other occasion" dresses, and formals. A questionnaire and an interview were used in this study. Most of the participants came from middle income families having an average of three to four children. Nearly 60% of the mothers of the girls were employed full-time or part-time outside of the home. The girls, who averaged nineteen years of age, had all been employed in some type of job. Their earnings, aside from church offerings and tithe, were used by thirty- one for school expenses and by seventeen for their personal clothing. The majority of the clothing items which the girls owned had been purchased ready-made, largely from independent or chain department stores and specialty shops. The types of stores at which apparel items were pur— chased were most often determined by the quality and price of the merchan- dise carried, the availability of styles and the fashionableness of the apparel. Eighty-five per cent of the girls had several garments in their ward- robes which had been made for them and half currently had skirts which had been made for them. Blouses and school dresses were the next most frequently home-sewed articles of apparel. Those who preferred hone— sewed garments felt that through home construction they saved money, secured better fitting garments and were assured of better quality. Pleasing style was most often mentioned as the reason for satis- faction with Specified garments. Other reasons given in decreasing number of times mentioned were becomingness of color, good fit, ease of care, comfort, and a liking for the material and workmanship. The most frequently indicated reasons for dissatisfaction were poor fit, dislike of the style, inferior material and workmanship, problems of care, being tired of the garment or displeased with its color. It was evident that the participants at the age level used in this study liked to have clothing that was comparable to others but at the same time individualistic in its styling. The need for approval of friends was not as strong in this age group as had been indicated for younger teen-age girls. In general, the buying practices of the participants expressed self- reliance. In teaching clothing selection and/or construction to this age group several points apparently need emphasis, such as more careful pre- planning of clothing purchases to assure_garments which better fit into existing wardrobes, and less impulsive selection in color so that the buyer could more effectively utilize and coordinate her clothing. Inasmuch as poor fit was a common reason indicated for dissatisfaction with seldom worn items of clothing, more understanding of what constitutes a well- fitted garment and the inherent changes which could be made through altera- tions might help the students purchase better fitting garments. The im- portance of purchasing clothing which can be more easily and less eXpen- sively taken care of, and which is of better quality and workmanship appeared to need more emphasis. Bl’fl'ING PRACTICES FOR SPECIFIED APPAREL ITET-IS OF FIFTY COLIEGE GIRIS By Blossom Church Dagen ATHFSIS Submitted to the College of Home Economics of Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts 1957 C; ’.2‘/’/P’j ’l/ 3’44’.’ AC KNOWIEDGI‘ENT The writer wishes to express sincere appreciation to Miss Hazel Strahan for her untiring patience and guidance throughout this in- vestigation; to Emanuel Missionary College administrators for their support in the project; to the fifty girls in Lamson Hall who were the subjects and whose c00peration made this study possible; and to her husband for his understanding and helpfulness during the study. TABIE CF CONTENTS czmvms . PAGE I. INTRODBCTION 1 II. 3:5va or um'rmua 3 III. COLLECTION OF DATA 15 IV. FINDINGS, IKTERPRETATIONS AND ANALYSES 20 Family Composition 20 Personal Data Concerning the Participants 25 Buying Practices 28 Analysis of Buying Practices h6 Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with Specified Apparel Items 50 Blouses 51 Skirts 60 Winter Coats 70 "Other Occasion" Dresses 76 Formals 8h V. sum *ARY 91, VI. CONCLUSION 101 BIBIJOGRAPHY 105 APPEI‘IDH - 108 TABLE II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. IIST OF TABLES Composition of the Families Occupations of Fathers Employment of Mothers Age of Participants Populations of Home Towns Type of Employment for Participants While Away from School Plan for Clothing Expenditures Types of Stores at Which Specified Articles of Clothing Were Purchased Primary Reasons for Choice of Store at Which Apparel Items Were Purchased Comparison of Shepping Practices for Purchasing Major and Minor Items of Apparel Shopping Practices Prior to Purchase Practices with Regard to Trying on Garments Before Purchasing Persons from Whom Interviewees Frequently or Occasionally .Received Gifts of New Clothing Types of Garments Received as Gifts Frequency with Which Specified Articles of Clothing Were Purchased on Sale Usual Practices for Payment for Specified Garments Comparison of Sewing Centers in 1952 Mbntana Study and 1956 Emmanuel Missionary College Study Places'Where Participants and Mbthers Had Learned to Sew PAGE 20 21 23 26 26 29 30 31 33 3b 35 36 37 38 ho bl he TABIE XIX . XX. XXII . XXIII . PAGE Reasons for Satisfactions with a Specified Blouse Sh Reasons for Dissatisfactions with a Specified Blouse 56 Reasons Why Selected Skirts Were Satisfactory to Interviewees 6h Reasons for Dissatisfaction with Specified Skirts 66 Reasons for Satisfactions with Specified'Winter Coats 72 Reasons for Dissatisfaction with a Specified Winter Coat 7h Reasons for Satisfaction with Specified "Other Occasion" Dresses 79 Reasons for Dissatisfaction with Specified "Other Occasion" Dresses 81 Reasons for Satisfaction with Specified Formals 86 Reasons for Dissatisfaction with Specified Formals 87 Shopping Considerations for Specified Garments 91 Preferred Colors for Specified Well-Liked Garments 92 Rankings of Reasons for Satisfaction for Five Specific Well-liked Garments ‘ 93 Rankings of Reasons for Dissatisfaction for Five Specified Disliked Garments 93 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Statement 93 Eh} Problem This study is concerned with the clothing pm‘chasing habits and satisfactions derived from five specified garments of fifty sophomore girls attending Emanuel mssionaly College. It was designed to compare family practices with regard to types of stores patronized, shopping practices, and price ranges in purchasing clothing for these girls. In- formation as to reasons for satisfaction and/ or dissatisfaction with currently worn blouses, sldrts, winter coats, “other occasion" dresses and formals was to be secured by interview. Factors of style, color, fit, quality of wbrhnanship, fabric performance such as ease of care, durability, etc., as well as determination of which garments in their wardrobes were purchased ready-made or made at home were expected to be secured in the interview. We 2: she role The decision to undertake this investigation was made because it was felt that there was a lack of information regarding buying practices among the students enrolled in any of the Seventh-day Adventist colleges. It was believed that increased understanding of the types of prob\ems which theSe girls have relative to the selection of clothing would be" beneficial in analyzing the present home economics clothing curriculum It was also believed that student interest could be stimulated in pre-plsnning purchases of clothing which would provide greater satisfaction. Infor- mation concerning what constitutes satisfactions could be integrated into . courses in clothing selection and/or construction, clothing budgets, and consumer prdblems in buying clothing, which would be helpful in.meeting the needs of the students. Others who might be interested and find this study of benefit would be the Emmanuel Missionary College dormitory administrators who advise future students on their college clothing needs, and also production and retail organizations who would.be interested in clothing preferences and buying practices of college-age groups. The fifty volunteers cooperating in this study were sophomores at Emmanuel Missionary College, Berrien Springs, Michigan, during the school year of 1956-57, where the investigator had been on the Home Economics department staff since 1953. The college is one of nine Seventh-day Adventist coeducational liberal arts colleges in the united States. The student personnel of approximately one thousand students are essentially from a four state area--Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin. Approximately one hundred students frdm outside of this area are enrolled. These church related colleges do not use a uniform dress. Suggested criteria for clothing is only that it be modest and simple, of good quality, becoming in color and suited for service: in other words, the type of outer apparel worn by girls on this‘campus is similar to that found on the campus of any state supported school. CHAPTER II REVIEW OF LITERATURE Introductigg A.great deal of emphasis has been placed on the importance of cloth- ing in attaining social and professional prestige. What do studies in this area actually indicate? What constitutes the habits of the American families in clothing preferences and buying practices which would help their college-age daughters to feel accepted? 'Why is this public satis- fied with some purchases and dissatisfied.with others? The findings of ‘ several investigations previously done provide some interesting infor- mation as to preferences and practices of different age groups. 'Ig§_Revisw Clothing has traditionally been one of the primary needs of the in- dividual and the family. Rapid technological developments have taken place which have increased the supply and modified the character of tex- 1 tiles and clothing. The three main purposes of clothing are decoration, 2 modesty, and protection, but possession of clothing has come to play an important role in a sense of belonging and of feeling secure. 1 "Cloth‘ - , ing and Textiles Move Forward ” Journal of Home Economics, XLVTII (October, 1956), pp. 635239. ’ '__ 2Bernice King, "A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relation- ships in Twenty-five Selected Families." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State university, East Lansing, 19h9, p. 12. Psychological Implications of Clothing "To adolescent girls, appearance and clothing are a major interest," ~,according to Silverman.3 Shively and Roseberry indicated of the college girl, "She must have a sufficient number (of garments) for her needs. Right clothes help give her a feeling of security and thus help her adjust to college life."11 Crawford states that the age factor is prObably the most important reason why clothing is such an important item to the college students, especially to women. The fact that men students have control over the marriage proposal and have been conditioned to rate women pri- marily in terms of "attractiveness" has made women students much more clothes conscious than men, and anxious to improve their appearances and personal charm. Women.must compete for male attention and must dress to attract men so that they will stand out in contrast to other women.5 The traditional view on better social participation because of being well dressed has been questioned by Ryan who, in a study at Cornell University found that there was no significant correlation between how a girl rated herself on dress and the number of organizations to which she belonged or how many offices she held. 3Sylvia Silverman, Clothing and Appearance--Their Psychological Implication £35_Teen-A e Girls, New York: Bureau of Publications, Teachers' College, 19 2, p. 2. hA. E. Shiveley and E. D. Roseberry, "Adequacy of College wardrobes Judged," Journal of Home Economics, XL (February, l9h8), p. 81. 5Mary M. Crawford, Student Folkways and S end' '33 Indiana gniversigx, New York: c‘oiumTia University-Press, 19 . ""‘""" 6Mary 8. Ryan, "Psychological Effect of Clothing," Part IV, Perception of Self in Relation to Clothi , Bulletin 905, Cornell university Kgricultural Experiment Station, Ithaca, l95h, pp. 1-19. \f‘l Rosencranz also reported in a study with Michigan State University veterans' wives that social participation and number of garments for a given occasion had no significance or relationship. Factors Affecting Purchase of Family Clothing Socio-economic factors as age, education, number and sex of children in the family, social activities, whether or not the wife is employed outside of the home and what kind of a jab she has are all related to the purchases of clothing for the family. Residential and geographical loca- tions are also important factors. In 195h, 90% of the men in the United States were employed while h6% of the women worked outside of the home. Income of women was higher for urban and rural non-farm families than for the women of farm families.8 Forty per cent of the families had incomes between $3,000 and $h,000 annually; 30% earned more than $6,000; 30% less than $3,000 with the;yearly median income of $h,h10 during the period between 1950 and 1953.9 Women in the higher income groups spent nearly twice as much for their clothes as those in the lower income bracket.10 According to a study by Schurr at the University of Maryland h5% of the college freshmen did not know their 7M. L. Rosencranz, "Social.Aspects of Clothing Studies," Journal of Home Economics, XLII (march, 1950), p. 206. 8U. S. Department of Commerce, Current Populations Report gf_Con- lgumgr‘lnggmg'(washington: U. 5; Government Printing 0ffice,.August, 1955), pp. 1,2. 95. F. Goldsmith, "Income Distribution in the United States, 1950.53," Survengf Current Business, XXXV (March, 1955), pp. 15-27. 10Margaret L. Brew, Roxanne R. O'Ieary, and Lucille C. Dean, Fami Clothing Inventories and Purchases, Household Economics Research Branch, . . Dept. of Agriculture (Washington: U. S. Government Printing Office, April, 1956), p. 9. families' incomes; 21% stated their incomes to be over $8,000; 17% between $6,000 and $8,000 and 17% with annual incomes under $14,000.11 Differences in climate affected both the clothing inventories and purchases as indicated by a study by the U. S. D. A. comparing differences between Minneapolis-St. Paul and Birmingham.buying practices.12 Farm husbands and wives owned less clothing than city husbands and wives, possibly because of the lower income of farm families and differences in occupations.13 In comparing numbers of garments considered necessary in an adequate college wardrdbe at the University of Maryland and at the University of Nebraska, eighteen of the twenty-six specified garments were owned in larger quantities by Maryland students than by the Nebraska students.1h R. H. Myers in the Miami Business Review suggests that it is time surveys become realistic regarding what is actually spent for clothing the family. He cites in this article, a cost study done in Cincinnati, Ohio, in which the cost of three-fifths of the women's dresses was less than $8.50. Only 5% to 6% paid more than $20.00 for their dresses.15 He believes that the usual figures quoted by women are basicly overstated as to cost; 11Mary S. Schurr, "A Study of wardrobes of the Freshmen'Women.Attend- ngthe university of Maryland (1951-52) with an Investigation of Certain Factors Influencing the Acquisition of These wardrobes." Unpublished Master's Thesis, University of Maryland, College Park, 1953, Po 29. 12U. S. Bureau of Human Nutrition and Home Economics, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Famil Clot o Inventories bz;Income (washington: U. 5. Government Print f ice, June 1930). ”Schurr, 22. git... p. 12. 1hlbid., p. 22. 153. H. Myers, "Dress Purchases in Cincinnati in 1952-53," Miami Business Review, XXVI (October, 19Sh), pp. l-h. Teen-agers are influenced more by style and color than by material and worlonanship in purchasing clothing according to a report in Consumer Rep_o_rt . 16 Those college girls who keep a record of expenses are in a minority. Lee of Stout Institute reported that 17% of the 100 girls she interviewed kept a record of expenditures17 while a junior college survey by Wolfe showed 30% keeping such records}8 Obviously clothing plans were not often made with budgeting in mind. Schurr reported that 67% of the freshmen girls at the University of Maryland earned at least part of the money spent on their wardrobes. Clothing expenditures were planned by only 75% of these girls.” College women are in a peak expenditure bracket in the purchase of clothing. A study by Brew, O'Leary, and Dean indicated that peak eXpendi- tures occurred in the age class of women under thirty-five years of age.20 Nelson states that "after a study of wardrobes one point of agreement is usually reached. The college girl has too many clothes."21 16 r "T u , een-age Consumers, Consumer Repert, XIII (March, 1957), pp. 13912. S 17Marian S. Iee, "A Study of the Clothing Ebtpenditures of Fifty enior and Fifty Sophomore Home Economics Students Attending the Stout Institute." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Stout Institute, Menominee, 1910, p. 38. s 18Relen Wolfe, "A Study of the Spending Responsibilities of a Celected Group of Junior College Women with Particular Reference to Their lothing Purchases." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Florida State Univer- sity, Tallahassee, 1951, p. ’48. 19Schurr, 22. 93., p. 36. 20Brew, O'Ieary and Dean, 92. gi_t_., p. 11;. J 211.018 Nelson, "Integrating Personal and Family Clothing Ecperiences," ournal 31; Home Economics, XLIX (January, 1957), pp. 29,30. The department store was the source for the largest proportion of clothes purchased by participants in the Milwaukee, Chicago and Ithaca studies, according to leask,22 Rosner,23 and Ryan,2h respectively. Specialty shops were listed next in order of frequency in each study. In a study at Kansas State University, 10% of the interviewees regularly pur- chased clothing by mail-order25 and each of the three preceding studies indicated some garments were purchased by this method. Laird reported that women make impulsive purchases.26 The choice of store where purchases are made may be as a result of impulse, but Lee reported that generally college girls bought where they did because of the good selection, the easy accessibility, the price of merchandise carried or the enjoyment derived from shopping in the store.27 The term "enjoy- ment" was not clarified. In none of the studies consulted was there inference that the ma- jority of the participants usually shopped alone. Relatives were most 22Grace J. Leask, "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Prac: tices of One Hundred Girls of West Division High School in Milwaukee, Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, East 1800118111." Lansing, 1953, pp. 58,59. 23Anne T. Rosner, "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying actices of One Hundred Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Illinois." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, East IanSing, 195,4, p0 700 B ZhMary 5. Ryan, "A Study of Factors in the Selection and Care of xlouses Which Relate to Consumer Satisfaction," Journal gf Home Economics, LVI (March, 19514), pp. 150,151. 25Mary M.Windhorst, "An Analysis of the Clothing Brpenditures of a Unpublished Master's Thesis, Kansas galacted Group of College Women." tats College of Agriculture and Applied Science, Manhattan, 1913. 26Donald A. Laird, What Makes People M: New York: McGraw—Hill, 1935, p. 138. 271488, 22. £542" pp. 335314- often.mentioned as the person.with whom they frequently shopped; girl friends were listed next in order of frequency. According to welfe rea- sons for not wishing to rely on their own judgments in.making decisions were "Do not have confidence in.my own judgment,” "Mother gets better '28 Expensive items of values," or ”Mother's taste is better than mine. apparel were nearly always purchased when another person was with the purchaser. Eighty-five to ninety per cent of the high school students usually shopped more than one place before purchasing garments in the Leask29 and Rosner30 studies. In a broader study covering all ages of women it was found by Hockstim.that four out of ten went to more than one store before purchasing garments.31 Rosner found that 99% of the Chicago girls always or frequently tried on coats, suits, cotton dresses and wool skirts before purchasing while only 19% always tried on blouses and sweaters and h5% did not try on these specific articles of apparel.32 A nuMber of studies showed that "hand-me-ddwns” were used to stretch the family wardrobes. In the Florida study by wolfe there was used clothing in the wardrobes of 6% of the interviewees.” In the high school study by Rosner 61% reported having "handeme-downs," with nearly half of 28Wolfe, 220 SEC, p. ’40. 291338k, .92. 92-20, Pp. 60,610 30Rosner,'gp.'gi§., pp. 70,71. 31Esther M. Hockstim, Women's Attitudes Toward Wool and Other Fibers , Marketing Research Duivisi on',"'""U. S .' 'De' "pt". _of Ag—Tic-ul-t'ur—e“ Wton: U. s. Govermnent Printing Office, 1957), pp. 25,26. 32Rosner,‘gp.‘git., p. 71. 33wolre, 92. 332., p. 51. 10 the clothes received from sources other than older sisters. Twelve per cent disliked the garments which they had.3h In one survey done for the U. S. D. A., 35% of the women reported that they supplemented their clothing with "hand-me-downs."35 In this study just mentioned an appreciable amount of clothing was received as gifts, but such clothing was not considered to be any great "wind fall" by many of those interviewed.36 Rosner stated that two- thirds of the participants in her study received gifts of new clothing .37 Teen-agers as a general rule did not contribute greatly to the return-goods market.38 As a group they did not return purchases for exchange or credit. Purchase of sale merchandise was a common method of stretching the wardrobe dollar. Wolfe found that 20% of the interviewees in her study bought clothes on seasonal clearance.” Rosner indicated that 51% usually and 39% frequently purchased garments at reduced prices.ho Leask reported that Milwaukee girls almost always paid cash for minor apparel items. Forty per cent always and 113% frequently purchased these items with cash. Only 7% bought major items on lay-away, and none suggested that they always bought clothing by installment payment al- though 5% indicated that they frequently did. Not more than 5% always 3’4Rosner, 22. $1., p. 89. 3SBrew, O'Leary, and Dean, 92. 933., p. 2 36_I_b_i_._d., p. 5. 37Rosner, 22. 21.3., p. 80. 38Consumer Re ort, pp. 933., pp. 1110-142. 39Wolfe, 92. 93.31., p. 51. hoRosner, 92. _c_:_i_t_., p. 25. ll purchased major ready-toawear by charge account, but 32% frequently did.h1 In the Chicago study 86% indicated paying cash for their coats, suits and party dresses; one third always or frequently charged these items. Four- teen per cent used lay-away and seven per cent purchased these items on extended payment plan.h2 Sewing practices in families cited in the literature were greatly varied. Although sewing was done by or for 50% of the girls in a study at Pennsylvania State University by Warden, the proportion of garments sewed was too small to have a major effect upon the wardrobe.l’3 This was also thought to be true by Schurr,hh Rosner,h5 and Leask.’46 ‘Wood, in analyzing sewing and buying practices of students in small colleges, suggested that those individuals with an understanding of clothing con- struction were able to buy more wisely, however.h7 Schurr found that the girls on the University'of’Ehryland campus who made all of their clothes had on an average, more suits, skirts, blouses, dresses, formals and coats than other girls on campus.ha “leash, pp. 51.3., pp. 63,451.. thosner,.gp.Igit., pp. 80,81. hBJessie A. Warden, "Some Factors Affecting the Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with Clothing of Women Students in the College of Education and the College of Liberal Arts.” Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, Pennsylvania State University, University Park, 1956. mlSchurr, pp. 933., p. hz. thosner, 92. git” p. 62. héleaak, 22. 2113., pp. h8,h9. 1”Amanda L. Wood, "Meeting the Clothing Needs of Students in a Small ggfigege." Unpublished master's Thesis, Ohio State University, Columbus, , p. 20. hBSChurr, 9E0 220, po 50. Rural farm families sewed more than city dwellers. Schlaphoff and Burema reported that about one-fourth of the farm families in a Nebraska county sewed most of their clothing.h9 Iynn reported that more than one-third of the participants in the college clothing classes which she interrogated at Cornell University had had previous clothing construction in junior high school with high school classes listed as their next most frequent source of training. The next largest segment in this study had had no previous training.50 ‘Wolfe found that 51% had had help from their mothers in learning to sew and 111% had had clothing classes in high school.51 A general survey done by Hockstim for the U. S. D. A. indicated that 62% owned sewing machines in working order.52 Slaughter found that 88% in an eleven state survey owned sewing machines.53 Schlaphoff and Burema said that the reasons given for sewing clothes at home were that money could be saved, outdated garments could be utilized, or that those sewing at home liked to do so.Sh Lee reported that factors influencing the making of clothing was economy, enjoyment, h9Doretta Schlaphoff and Jeanette Burema, "Home Production by'a Nebraska County," Journal of Home Economics,.XLVII (June, 1955), pp. h03,h0h. SOMary Jean Lynn, “Inventories of'Edghty-six Freshmen Girls' School 'Wardrobes to Determine Factors Relating to the Popularity of School Cloghing. " Unpublished Master's Thesis, Cornell university, Ithaca, 1952, p. 3. ' SlWOII'e, 22. 9—1-20, p0 11110 52 Hockstim,o 22. cit. , pp. 141,112. 53hhrgaret Slaughter "Home Sewing Centers, " Journal of Home ‘Economics, XLV (May, 19533, p. 325. 5’43oh1aphorr and Burema, pp. 32.3., pp. h03,hoh. better choice of pattern and material, and greater individuality. Reasons for buying rather than making clothing were lack of time, immediate need, better appearance and satisfaction, lack of facilities, and lack of sew- ing skill.SS Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with Specified Apparel Items Comparatively little information is available on what constitutes reasons for satisfactions and dissatisfactions with garments. Ryan found that interviewees in the Ithaca, New Yerk area were most 'pleased with blouses which were easy to care for and which went with several skirts or suits; which had suchzmsthetic qualities as "looking good" or having a pleasing color; and which were comfortable and fit well. White short sleeved cotton blouses were preferred. Those blouses which could be machine washed were worn most frequently.56 In Lynn's study at Cornell the most frequently worn blouses were new blouses which had been chosen by the interviewees. Reasons for not liking one-third of the blouses which the interviewees mentioned wearing infrequently were that they had not been intelligent buys, that they had care problems, were a (iisliked color or fabric, that they needed repairs or that they slipped out.of skirts with which they were worn.57 Hockstim indicated that women when asked about skirts had less criticism than praise for those they owned. Frequent reasons for satis- factions with the skirts inquired about were that interviewees liked the 55Lee, pp. 933., p. 29. 56Ryan, "A Study . . ." pp. 151-151;. 57mm: 22' 222" P130 31331100 color, style, price and fit. Mentioned occasionally was the skirt's versatility, tailoring, brand, attractiveness, and its approval by friends. Major dissatisfactions with wool skirts were their scratchiness, the fact that they showed dirt, sagged or stretched, were too warm, bulky or that they were subject to moths.58 The most frequent criticisms of the seven infrequently worn skirts that belonged to each participant in the Lynn study were that they were unwisely purchased or that they did not fit.59 No pertinent information was found concerning the other specified garments . SBHockstim, pp, cit., pp. 15,16. 5913mm, 22. 223., pp. 12,20. CHAPTER III COLLECTION OF DATA Fifty sophomore volunteers were used for this survey. It was felt that SOphomores were typical of the girls who were established in college and who had learned from eXperience what was expected and desired in a ~college wardrObe. Initial contact was made with these girls in their dormitory assemblies. The group which volunteered was too large, but when an age limitation of eighteen to twenty years was specified, ap- proximately fifty participants were Obtained. The deficiency was filled ' by personal contact with the previous volunteers or by asking those who had not been in assembly that evening. The purpose of the survey and the importance of their individual contribution to the validity of the data nwas explained at the group meeting. Instruments used in the survey were a questionnaire and an interview. The portion of the questionnaire covering family data such as composition of the family, employment patterns, approximate family income, etc., was filled in under a code number. The second portion.which had the same code number, was signed, thus making it possible to find who had filled in the first part of the questionnaire if this information was necessary. Part II of the questionnaire was a schedule designed to secure infermation on in- dividual clothing preferences and.buying practices. Types of employment of the participants was obtained along with information concerning their plan for clothing expenditures, extent of parental influence in buying 16 practices, comparative practices in the purchase of ready-to-wear garments ‘versus their construction in the home, etc. The questionnaire was group administered. Information concerning satisfactions and dissatisfactions with spe- cified apparel items were investigated during the personal interview. The complete questionnaire and interview schedule has been bound in the appendix of this thesis. The data obtained.by these interrogations was analyzed objectively and subjectively to attempt to determine the socio-economic background of the participants along with their practices in purchasing clothing, as well as their reasons for finding specified clothing items satisfactory - or unsatisfactory. Scales When considering parental employment, the "Distribution gg‘ggggpg- 32222;.IEEEEE" published by the Bureau.of Employment Security of the Department of Labor was used as an index of classification.59 These ratings are explained as follows: O--Professiona1 and Managerial Occupations a. Professional--this group includes occupations that predominantly require a high degree of mental activity by the worker and are con- cerned.with the theoretical or practical aspects of complex fields of human endeavor. Typical professional occupations are those of doctor, lawyer, architect, mechanical engineer, chemist, physicist, astronomer, editor, etc . b. Semi-professional--Included in this group are occupations con- cerned with the theoretical or practical aSpects of fields of endeavor that require rather extensive education or practical experience, or __ l C.’ ’91:. 5. Bureau of Employment Security, Distribution of m ___Occ ational Titles 'Egl. II, Occupational Classification.§gd Indust Index EWashingtcn: Un‘it'ed" States'Uovermnent Printing Office, Ta’arch, I959). 17 a combination such as education and experience for the proper per- formance of the work. Chiropodists, tree surgeons, draftsmen, aviators, laboratory technicians and fingerprint experts are typical semi-professional occupations. c. Managerial and offical occupations--This group includes occupa- tions that are involved primarily with responsible policyemaking, planning, supervising, coordinating, or guiding work-activity of others, usually through intermediate supervisors. Typical of these occupations are managers or presidents of business enterprises, superintendents of construction projects, and purchasing and adver- tising agents. 'Work foreman are not included in this group. l—-Clerical and Sales Occupations a. Clerical and kindred occupations-~This group includes occupations concerned with the preparation, transcribing, transferring, systema- tizing, or preserving of written communications and records in offices, shops, and other places. b. Sales and kindred occupations-~Included in this group are occupa- tions concerned with the sale of commodities, investment, real estate and services, and occupations that are very closely identified with sales transactions even though they do not involve actual participa- tion in such transactions. 2-—Service Occupations a. Domestic service occupations-~This group includes occupations concerned with the usual functions in the maintenance of households and their environs, the cooking of meals, the care of children and similar services that are performed in private homes. b. Protective service occupations--In this group are those spe- cifically concerned with the protection or guarding of the country or its political units, of buildings and other property, and of individuals. Typical are U. S. servicemen, watchmen and policemen. c. Personal service occupations-~Inc1uded in this group are occupa- tions concerned with performing services for others. Typical are barbers, waitresses, practical nurses, etc. d. Building service workers and porters-4Workers concerned with the cleaning of the interior and equipment of buildings, offices, stores, and similar places, and with moving or carrying equipment, baggage and other articles. 3--Agricultura1, Fishery, Forestry and Kindred Occupations a. The occupations included in this group are those that are directly associated with the process of growing and harvesting vegetables, fruits, grains, and other farm crOps; in the raising of poultry, livestock, and other animals and fowls for consumption, for their products, for pets, or exhibition; and in various phases of horticultural activities. Farmers and dairymen are typical. b. Fishery occupations--These workers earn their livelihood by activity engaging in catching or gathering all types of seafoods, aquatic shells and plants, c. Forestry, Hunting 81d Trapping occupations--These occupations are concerned with the development and care of forests and the growing and gathering of forest products, also trapping parties or who engage in the hunting and trapping of wild animals and gmc o h & 5--Skilled Occupations This group includes craft and manual occupations that require predominantly a thorough and comprehensive knowledge of processes involved in the work, the exercise of considerably independent judgment, usually a high degree of manual dexterity, and in some instances, extensivc responsibility for valuable products or equipment. Textile workers, stone cutters, bakers, aircraft builders, etc., are typical. 6 & 7--Semi-skilled Occupations Occupations that are characterized by one, or a combination of parts, of the following requirements: the exercise of manipulative ability of a high order, but limited to a fairly well-defined work routine; major reliance, not so much upon the worker's judgment or dexterity, but upon vigilance and alertness in situations in.which lapses in performance would cause extensive damage to product or equipment, and the exercise of independent judgments to meet vari- ables in work situations. Ekamples might be baker's helpers, cloth winders, etc. 8 & 9--Unskilled Occupations This group includes occupations that involve the performance of . simple duties that may be learned within short periods of time and that require the exercise of little or no independent judgment. Characteristically, such occupations do not require previous ex- periences in the occupations in question. Hod carriers for brick layers, bread wrappers, etc., would fall in this classification. CHAPTER IV FINDINGS, mmpnsmnows AND ANALYSES Pertinent information concerning family backgrounds was gained from the participants through the use of the personal data questionnaire. The complete questionnaire may be found in the appendix. It was felt that having a knowledge of their background would help in the interpretation of the-findings concerning individual clothing preferences and.buying practices. This portion of the questionnaire'was voluntarily and anonyh mously done. It was hoped that because it was voluntary it would be possible to obtain reasonably accurate information. Famigy Comosition The first question had to do with the children in the family. It was found that the average family from.which the participants came had between three and four children. In the entire group, the age range of brothers and sisters was from age forty to age two. The largest family had ten children. There were six families with only one child, namely, the interviewee. In nineteen of the fifty homes represented, the girl participating in this study was the oldest child in the family. In each of twelve households, the participant was in an intermediate age position and in six instances the only child. In nineteen families there were older sisters and this might have significance in interpreting the data on the use of "handeme-downs," etc. In twenty-three homes the participants had younger sisters. Fburteen of the girls had older brothers and eighteen TABEE I COMPOSITION OF THE FAMILIES -__:-_‘ Girl's Father's Mother's Older Younger Older Younger Total No Age Age? Age Bros. Bros. Sisters Sisters Children 1 18 ho-hh ho-hb - - - 3 h 2 19 hS-h9 ho-uh - 1 1 1 h 3 19 ho-hh ho-hh - - 1 1 3 h 19 ho-hh ho-uh - 1 - 1 3 S 18 55-59 h5-h9 - 1 - 1 3 6 19 50-Sh 55-59 - - - 1 2 7 19 50-Sh 50-5h - - - - 1 8 19 50-Sh So-Sh 1 - - - 1 9 19 55-59 55-59 3 - h - 8 1C 20 hO-hh hO-hh - -_ - h 5 11 1g h5-h9 hS-h - - 1 - 2 12 1. hS-h9 80-h - - 1 - 2 g a an be? - a - a la 1 19 20 h fiojfié 1 1 - - i6 as 68-3: § 9 s; 2 - 1 i - - - 2 1 a a an 3-2 - - - a 2 -l - — - 20 19 50%? 16-219 - - l l g 3% %8 its ’28'“ ' 2 ' ' fl - - - - 2 1 5g 19 3-3 at; i - 2 - h - - - - 1 2 18 hS-h9 hS-fifi - - 1 - 2 26 19 hS-h9 ho- - - - - 1 27 19 3539 3569 - - - 1 2 28 19 “5-5 ESIEE 1 - 2 - u 29 21. O-h 0 - 2 - 3 5 30 19 E - h o- h 1 1 - - 3 31 20 5- 9 0- - - - - 1 32 18 over 65 hO-hh - - - 1 2 3 21 over 65 60-6h h - - - 3 20 145-119 to - 2 -. 1 i a :2 a 20:8: - - 1 - 2 9 0 0 1 — - a $9 at an a a 1 - 3 9 19 ho-hfi ho-hh 1 1 1 - i 0 20 55-59 hO-hh - 1 ~ 2 h hl l9 deceased 55-59 - - - - 1 h2 18 ho-hh 5.32 - - - _ 1 fii 20 50-Su o- 1 1 2 1 5 21 60-6h 60-6h h 1 1 - 7 hS l9 deceased 50-5h 2 - l - h h6 19 over 65 60-6h - - l - 2 h7 19 ES-r9 O-Efi - - - _ 1 8 19 54:9 0- - 1 - 2 1, 9 20 2 deceased - - 2 - _o 20 55-59 55-59 .. 3 .. .. fi 50 participants Totals 23 25 38 ho 175 21 had younger brothers. It is interesting to note that of the children in the fifty families, there were 128 girls but only forty-eight boys. Eleven of the students indicated that there were other persons out- side the immediate family living in their homes. In three instances, the other person was a grandmother. In two instances these individuals were grandfathers. In three homes, there were two grandparents, and in one instance a cousin lived with the family. Two households had non-relatives living in the home. In one of these families several elderly or infirm people were boarded and cared for by the parents. In the second home there was no indication as to the identity of the non-relative. Occupations of the wage Earners An analysis of the fathers' occupations together with the employment of the other members of the family gives some insight into the socio- economic status of the family. In Table II a summary of the occupations of their fathers is shown. TABLE II OCCUPATIONS 0F FATHERS I“ “ Occ ations U. S. Occu ational Em o Numb up Indeg Number* pl.yment er in Group Skilled craftsmen h,5 13 Agricultural, Fishery or Forestry 3 12 Professional and Managerial O 6 Clerical and Sales 1 6 Unskilled 8,9 h Semi-skilled 6,7 2 Service 2 2 unknown, retired, deceased 5 Total 50 *Occupational Employment Index numbers are interpreted on pages 16-18. 22 Twenty-five per cent were engaged in work as skilled craftsmen and a comparable number followed agricultural pursuits. Twelve per cent were professional men; 12% in clerical or sales occupations and 8% were un- skilled.workers. Four per cent held semi-skilled jobs and h% were in some type of service position. One girl said that her father was self- employed but did not give the nature of his employment. Two girls did not know what occupations their fathers followed. One of these girls was living with a guardian and in the other instance, the mother and father ‘were divorced. One father was retired and two were deceased. Twenty-one of the interviewees indicated that their fathers had been following the same type of work for over twenty-one years. This might be an indication that at least h0% of the participants in this study came from a relatively stable background. Eight of the girls interviewed, indicated that their fathers had been employed in their present occupa- tions between eleven and twenty years. A significant number, approxi- mately one-fourth of the participants, indicated that their fathers had been employed at their present jobs for less than ten years. One father, because of ill health, was retired. Apparently, some of the girls had not been impressed or did not care to indicate the length of time their fathers had been employed in their present jobs as there were five who did not state how long their fathers had followed their present occupations. Twenty-nine of the girls interviewed stated that their mothers worked outside of the home. In twenty of the homes the mothers were not employed. In one home, the mother was deceased. Of the twenty-nine mothers who were employed, twenty-two were working at full time jobs and seven were part- time employees . 23 In classifying the types of employment of the mothers, ten of the twenty-nine were associated in some capacity with a hospital; eight were employed in office work, seven were doing clerical work and one mother was an office supervisor. There were three mothers who were teachers; one of whom.was employed as a governess; and two mothers were employed as ‘waitresses. Other types of employment included that of florist, assist- ant manager in a laundry, a nursing home Operator, and a housekeeper. TABLE III EMPLOYMENT OF MOTHERS Amount of Employment Number Not employed outside of the home 20 Employed part-time 7 Employed full-time 22 Deceased 1 Total 50 Educational Background of Parents There was wide variation in the number of years of schooling which the fathers of these fifty girls had attained. The lowest amount was indicated as three years. The highest amount of education was graduation from.medical school. The average number of years of schooling for the fathers of all of the participants was 10.9. Of the fifty girls filling in this questionnaire, five said that they had no idea as to how many years of schooling their fathers had completed. Since no information was given concerning the deceased fathers, the average is based on only forty- three replies. From.this group twenty-three had finished high school. Forty-eight of the fifty girls were able to give the number of years' schooling that their mothers had completed. Five more girls knew about at their mothers' educational background than knew about their fathers'. The average number of years in school for the mothers was 12.1 years which was 1.2 more than the average number of years for their fathers. Twenty- four of the mothers had had at least one year of training beyond high school while one mother had completed only the sixth grade in school. Age of the Parents Twenty-two of the fifty participants indicated that their fathers 'were between the ages of forty-five and fifty-four. The next largest segment by age included eleven fathers who were thirtyhfive to forty-four years of age. There were ten fathers between the ages of fifty-five and sixty-four; three were over sixty-five. Two girls did not know the ages of their fathers. On the average, their mothers were younger than their fathers. Ap- proximately half of the mothers were between the ages of thirtybfive and forty-four; fifteen between forty-five and fifty-four; and nine between the ages of fifty-five and sixty-four. In no instance was the mother over sixty-five years of age. Church Affiliation All of the girls participating in this study were of the same de- nominational affiliation, Seventh-day Adventist. In checking on the church affiliation of the fathers it was found that thirty-one of the forty-eight were also members of this church. There were seventeen who either belonged to another church or who had no church affiliation. Forty-six of the fifty girls stated that their mothers belonged to the Seventh-day Adventist church. Four reSpondents gave no indication as to what, if any, church affiliation their mothers had. 25 Income of the Family An attempt was made to determine the approximate yearly income of the fifty families represented in this study. Twenty-one of the girls indicated that their families' earnings were between $5,000 and $7,h99. The next largest group of seventeen, were in an income bracket between $2,000 and $h,999. Four of the girls stated that their families' incomes averaged over $10,000 a year and three said that their families earned under $2,000 annually. Five gave no indication as to the income of their families. The veracity of the annual income data might be questioned. In a number of instances where both parents were employed in good paying jobs, the income bracket reported was below that which the dual income would currently represent. No doubt, in other cases, the amount of income was an over statement. Personal Data Concerning the Participants The next portion of the questionnaire was filled in under the student's signature. It was felt that it might be advantageous to be able to refer to the information concerning the individual before filling in the interview schedule. A copy of this portion of the questionnaire and the interview schedule appear in the appendix. Age and Educational Attainment of Interviewees Host of the girls participating in this study were between the ages of eighteen and twenty; They had the common background of all being sophomores or being on the campus for the second year. Ninety-two per cent of the total group were between the ages of eighteen and twenty, the average being 19.2 years. There were twenty-eight who were nineteen years old, ten who were twenty; eight who were eighteen and four over twenty years of age. 26 TABLE IV AGE OF PARTICIPANTS ==IIII=I=II==3======I=====I==fl==I========================================3 Age of Participants Number in Group 18 8 19 28 20 10 21 3 22 1 Total 50 Geographical Distribution of Participants Homes The girls were asked to list their home town and its approximate popu- lation. From their answers it was obvious that many of them were not aware of the size of the cities from.which they came. Twenty per cent of the interviewees gave no p0pu1ation listing whatever-~a significant number. For thatreason the size of these ten cities were obtained from the 1950 census report.61 The validity of the remaining answers could perhaps be questioned. TABLE V POPULATIONS OF HOME TOWNS __A Size of City Number From.Each City of This Size 0 - 2,h99 . 16 2,500 - h,999 3 5,000 - 7,h99 2 7,500 ’ 9,999 2 10,000 - 1h,999 2 15,000 ' 2h,999 3 25,000 - h9,999 S 50’000 "’ 99,999 10 100,000 - 2h9,999 h 250,000 - h99,999 1 500,000 - one million 1 Over one million 1 Total 50 61U 8 Bureau of Census 1? 0 C ' . . , g ensus g; Population--Number of Eghabitants, (Washington: United States Government Printing Office, 1951). 27 Fifteen of the interviewees lived in towns of under 2,500 population. The next largest group, ten, came from cities with populations from 50,000 “to 100 ,000 inhabitants. Nine girls reported their homes to be in towns with a population between 2,500 and 15,000. Eight came from cities having a population from 15,000 to 50,000 and four girls from cities of 100,000 to 250,000 population. Others were from varied population levels as indicated in Table V. One interviewee stated that she lived in the middle of nineteen square miles in Oklahoma where her family constituted the population. High School Background Eighty-two per cent of the girls were from the four-state area served by Emmanuel Missionary College, namely, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Wisconsin. The largest group came from Michigan, seventeen girls; eleven from Illinois; ten from Wisconsin and three from Indiana. Outside the four-state area three were from New York, and one each from Florida, Maryland, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, and Port au Prince, Haiti. There were fourteen of the fifty participants who had graduated from the secondary Seventh-day Adventist schools in Michigan. The next largest group of eight were from Illinois, all having graduated from an Adventist parochial school. Similarly there were seven from Wisconsin and four from Indiana parochial schools. From such secondary academies outside the four-state area, there were eight girls participating in this project. The remaining students had graduated from high schools; three from Michigan and one each from Illinois, Indiana, and Wisconsin. Three additional girls had graduated from high schools outside this four-state region. 28 Two-thirds of the participants had lived in a dormitory during their high.school years. Six of the group reported living both at home and in a dormitory while in high school. Almost as many had lived at home during this entire peri0d. .EEZEEE Practices Earnings of Participants Nearly all of the students at Emmanuel Missionary College do some type of work while they are in school. The money earned from this work is credited to their statements and for that reason their wages are actually a bookkeeping operation rather than a cash payment. It was de- cided that if Spending habits were to be ascertained it would have to be determined whether or not the girls had been employed outside of a school plant and had earned cash. Thirty-four reported that they had had jobs of some type for which they had been paid in cash. Sixteen reported, how- ever, that they had been employed only at church related schools. Some of the girls had had experience in more than one type of work. Twenty-one reported having worked in offices; five as waitresses; five having done some type of work in a hOSpital; two employed for housework; four employed in a shop and two had done selling. One of the girls re- ported that she had worked as a swimming instructor and another had earned money fer baby-sitting. Apparently, the others who had done babybsitting did not consider that they had done a sufficient amount to call it regular employment. See Table VI for a complete listing of employment. The participants were asked to record their wages in one of three groups depending upon how they had been paid; by the month, by the week, or other. 29 TABLE VI TYPE OF EMPICYMENT FOR PARTICIPANTS WHILE AWAY FROM SCHOOL ‘4‘- A“ 1 Type of Employment Number Employed Clerical 20 Hospital Waitress Shop work Housework SaleS‘work Accomranying Baby-sitting Janitorial service library aid Receptionist Swimming instructor HHHHHHmmrmm The highest rate of pay recorded by the month was $285; the lowest, $50. The average monthly earnings for the entire group was $1h0. There was no indication as to how many hours a week these girls had worked. Of those who were paid by the week, the highest paid employee was earning $70; and the lowest only $10. The average weekly rate "as approximately tbs. or those paid by the hour, the highest was paid $1.00 per hour; the lowest, 85¢. The average pay was 95¢ per hour. In one instance, for baby-sitting, the girl was paid $2.50 per day. The Seventh-day Adventist church Operates under a tithing plan whereby each member contributes 10% of his income for payment of the ministry. Beyond this the girls participating in this study would probably give other church offerings as a matter of common procedure. However, other types of expenditures were asked for, the question reading, "What kind of plan do you have for spending your earnings beyond tithe and other miscel— laneous church offerings?" Thirty indicated that they saved at least a part of their earnings for school expenses. Twenty-one said that they were reaponsible, in part, for the purchase of their personal clothing. 30 Four indicated that a part of their earnings were contributed to the family. Others mentioned car expenses, payment of debts, etc., as uses for the money they earned. Seven said that they had no particular plan for spending their money. In answer to the question, "Are your family clothing expenditures planned?" fourteen stated that this was the usual procedure in their families. However, thirty-five indicated that their families followed no particular plan of expenditure for family clothing. "Do ygBLplan‘yggg clothing expenditures?" was a question which was asked of the girls. The girls generally followed the same pattern of planning as that which had been followed in the home. Seventeen indicated they planned their eXpenditures; thirty-one did not have any particular plan for their clothing expenditure with one person mentioning that some- times she did and sometimes she did not. TABLE VII PLAN FOR CLOTHING EXPENDITURES EXpenditures Number Who Planned Number Who Did Not Plan Family 1h 35 Participants 17 31 An analysis of Table VIII shows the type of store at which different articles of apparel were purchased. This survey showed that for coats, suits, school dresses, "other occasion" dresses and Jackets the department store was the most popular type of store. The specialty clothing shops were preferred for skirts, sweaters, blouses, and formals. Chain stores such as The J. C. Penney Company were mentioned most frequently as the type of store in which they would buy their play clothes, robes, pajamas 31 OH I NH m m 4H mH mHMEhom .. H H o Hm i ”H oaHHm w H m w NH a Q monsoon a .. - a fi HH NH monom O H I O NH ON OH momsOHm I I m m 4H OH mH whopmozm mH .. m a NH aH mH 35m. H H H H NH MH mm meoxowh m H H 5 ON m OH moneoHO anmHm m I m a w 5H mm mommowm :onoooo Mango m I I 2 OH HH OH mommowm Hoonom H .. a I a H mm 39m I I w I OH NH um mpooo comerhpocm mommowm mmozm swoon mm whence; maocnoq mm mcanoHO _b:m 902 on no mnozpo o>HmsHoxm nononHH zoom chgO zaHmHoodm ohopm v.mon no oHoHPhd 'IIIII" I‘llll‘ i...“ {it"Iil’l'a I'I'I'IIII’IIII I II.’ .II. l.|l.'-I'II numdmumzm mum: OZHmBQHo mo mmHOHamd QmHhHommw mOHm3 EH mmmoem ho mmmha HHH> mHm§H 32 and slips. The girls were also asked whether or not they purchased clothes by mail-order. With the exception of coats and suits each apparel item listed had been purchased by mail-order; the items most frequently ordered being rebes, pajamas, and play clothes. A few indicated that they bought lingerie and blouses and fewer girls mentioned skirts, sweaters, "other occasion" dresses, school dresses and formals as sometimes being purchased by mail. The type of garment most often'hOUght at exclusive dress shops was the formal. Almost as many formals were purchased in such shops as were bought in specialty stores and department stores. Next in popularity of purchases from such a store was the "other occasion" dress; then the coat. At least one person indicated that she bought play clothes, jackets, blouses, pajamas and slips from such stores as Kresges. In connection with this question the girls were asked to tell which garments, if any, that they might make rather than purchase ready-made.’ The article of apparel most often mentioned was the skirt as over one- fourth of the girls made their skirts. The next in order of frequency was the formal. This perhaps can be accounted for by the fact that many of the college sophomore girls have had.to have formals for weddings and a number of these formals had been made at home. Nine mentioned that they usually made their school dresses; eight made their pajamas and eight made "other occasion" dresses. The other types of garments made at home were insignificant in number. Two-thirds of the participants suggested that the primary reason for their choice of store for a specific item of apparel was because that store offered the desired quality of merchandise. Nearly as many checked the fact that the store of their choice carried the desired price range for that item of apparel. Half of the students gave wide selection of 33 styles as their reason. The fact that the store carried the fashions which they wanted to buy was next in frequen y of mention. Convenience of - location was checked by less than one-third of the girls. he fact that the stores that are conicnient to the college at Berrien Springs carry an extremely limited quantity of merchandise might have lead the participants to think of convenience of location as a minor reason for their choice. Only nine of the fifty girls indicated that the brands carried constituted a reason for their choice. Apparently, this group of college students were not particularly brand conscious. Seven said that they shopped where there was a wide selection of sizes available. Three girls suggested that the payment plan available was a factor in their choice of store for their apparel purchases. TABLE IX PRIMARY REASONS FOR CHOICE OF STORE AT WHICH APPAREL ITEMS EJRRE PURCHASED Reasons Number Indicating This Reason Desired quality of merchandise carried 33 Desired price range 29 ‘Wider selection in styles 25 Style and fashionableness of merchandise l9 Convenience of location 15 Brand carried ‘Wider selection of sizes Charge account at store Extended payment plan available Good service F4F4ro-d\o In buying major ready-toawear items thirty-eight or about 75% fre- quently shepped and ten sometimes shopped with someone. None of the girls bonght major ready-to-wear items by herself. For less important items +I oncrc were only four who mentioncd that they usually shepped with someone. VI v7.. 'A .' ‘l . ‘ i‘ . o .3. 1 . . . . “oyster, forty-three of the group indicated they sometimes did; while three never shOpped with aryone for less important items. See Tahle X for a summary of this comparison. TABLE X CCTIARISCN CF SHOPPING PRACTICES FOR PURCHASING MAJOR AND HIEOR ITEMS OF APPAREL Usually with Sometimes with Never with Type of item Someone Someone Someone Major ready-to-wear such as coats less important items of ready-to—wear to (N H O O L' m a \A) When asked with whom they frequently shopped, the one person most often mentioned was the girl's mother. Seventy-five per cent said that they shopped with their mothers. Nearly h0% said that they frequently shopped with girl friends. A girl friend's advice ass sought more often than that of sisters as less than one-third indicated they shopped with their sisters. Four girls shopped with both parents together; four some- times shopped with their boy friends and two specifically mentioned shepping with their brothers. A father's advice was apparently highly influential with one girl. This practice follows a similar pattern as the study done by Rosner with a group of high school girls in Chicago. The girls interviewed in that study stated that 6°% of the time they sought the advice of their mothers in shopping. Next in popularity was the advice of their girl friends.62 Almost two-thirds of the participants said that if there was a dif- ference of Opinion when they were shoppiné with their parents, the final Q Caoico was made ay the girl. Che-third indicated that, generally speaking, M 2 . Rosner, 32, Cit., pr. 6% St A; ",\‘/. the choice was a comyrcnise. There were two who answered that the final decision rested with their parents if they did not agree. There seemed to be a general trend for a more expensive garment to be purchased after the girl had shopjcd for it at more than one place. Eighty-two to 957 mentioned that they always shepped more than one place for suits, formals, coats, "other occasion" dresses, skirts, and jackets. Approximately two-thirds of the girls said that they shopped at more than one place for blouses, robes, and sweaters; and half of the girls looked at more than one place for play clothes. Underwear was the only type of garment mentioned in the study for which the girls seemed to feel it was all right to shop only at one store. Perhaps this was because they frequently'bought by brand names and knew their precise size for this specific type of clothing. Forty-one or over 80% said that they shopped in only one place for underwear. Table XI summarizes this data. TABLE XI SHOPPING PRACTICES PRIOR TO PURCHASE Shopped in Shopped in Did Not Makes Speci- Garments Here Than One Store One Store Indicated fied Garments Coats hS 2 3 - Suits 57 - 3 - School Dresses 0 1h 5 1 Other Occasion Dresses £3 6 1 - Play Clothes 25 22 3 - Blouses 30 18 2 - Skirts h2 6 1 1 Jackets hl 6 3 - Sweaters 35 13 2 - Babes 32 16 2 - Underwear 8 hl l - Formals h? - 3 - The girls were also asked to list the garments which they tried on he) ‘3 ' v .. ‘ o . ccfore purcha51ng. Over 90% mentioned that they either occas1onally or 36 always tried on coats, suits, "other occasion" dresses, formals, jackets, school dresses and skirts. Between h0% and 50% indicated that they tried on blouses, play clothes and robes. Between 257 and hcé said that they seldom tried on underwear, sweaters, or bloases. Approximately 35% reported that they never tried on underwear and less than 10% never tried on robes or sweaters before purchasing. See Table XII for detailed information regarding these practices. TABLE III PRACTICES WITH REGARD TO TRXING 0N GARMENTS BEFORE PURCHASING Type of Garment Always Occasionally Seldom Never Not Indicated Coats h? — - - 3 Suits h? 1 - - 2 School Dresses hh h - - 2 Other Occasion Dresses h? l - - 2 Play Clothes 22 18 8 ~ 2 Blouses 23 15 12 l l Skirts bl 6 l - 2 Jackets hS l l - 2 Sweaters 13 1h 16 h 3 RObes 21 17 E h 3 Underwear 2 h 22 18 h Formals hS l - - h Later in the questionnaire, the girls were asked whether they, on occasion, had to return for exchange or credit any items that they had purchased. Sweaters were most frequently mentioned as having to be re- turned. There would appear to be a relationship between the fact that these garments were not tried on before purchase and the fact that it was necessary to return them for exchange or credit. Thirty-one of the girls said that they had "handame-downs" in their wardrobes while seventeen did not. Eight of these thirty-one indicated L-J K3 that they usually'enjoyed wearing these clothes while thirteen said that they sometimes did; but no one indicated that she felt ill at ease or that she did not enjoy wearing these garments. These "hand-me-downs" most frequently came from older sisters. Thirteen mentioned obtaining clothing from their sisters. Considering the fact that only nineteen of the girls had older sisters, this is a high proportion. Nine suggested that they received "hand—me-downs" from relatives; nine stating that their “hand-me-downs" came from well-to-do people. Seven of the girls said that they sometimes received discards from their mothers' wardrdbes. Girl friends, sisters-in—law, and friends constituted a negligible source of such clothing. TABLE XIII PERSONS FROM WHOM INTERVIEWEES FREQUENTLY OR OCCASIONALIY ‘ RECEIVED GIFTS OF NEW CLOTHING Persons Giving Gifts Frequently Occasionally Parents 36 13 Sisters 8 21 Brothers h 8 Grandparents 5 10 Aunts S 16 Friends h 27 Boy Friends 1 l Sisters-in-law 1 1 Sixteen of the girls mentioned that they had a significant number of gift clothing items in their wardrobes. These gifts of new clothing fre- quently came from their parents, thirty-six so indicating. About half of this number had received gifts of clothing from grandparents, brothers or friends. All but one girl frequently or occasionally received gifts from their parents. Occasional gifts came from friends, sisters, aunts, 38 grandparents, brothers, boy friends, and sisters-in-law mentioned in that order of frequency. Table XIII gives numerical frequencies of gifts from specified individuals. As Table XIV shows, the most common gift of clothing was hosiery. Over 50% said that they frequently had gifts of hose. Nearly h0% stated that they had frequently received sweaters as gifts. Blouses were com- monly mentioned. As a matter of fact, thirteen girls said that they were frequently given blouses and twenty-five were occasionally given.blouses. Fifteen said that they frequently received underwear as gifts. Thirteen participants frequently received apparel accessories as gifts and nineteen occasionally received accessOries as gifts. A small number of girls had coats, suits, skirts, school and "other occasion" dresses, pajamas, sox or rdbes as frequent gifts of clothing. TABLE XIV TYPES OF GARMEHTS RECEIVED AS GIFTS * Types of Garments Frequently Occasionally Hose 28 16 Sweaters l9 1? Underwear 15 21 Blouses 13 25 Apparel Accessories l3 l9 Skirts 6 20 Play Clothes 6 10 Costa 5 7 School Dresses 3 11 Other Occasion Dresses 3 9 Pajamas 3 2 Suits 2 h Sex 1 - Robes l - Jackets - 9 —_ When asked whether or not they usually purchased by brand name, six indicated they usually bought by brand name, thirty-eight indicating that 39 they occasionally did while five never purchased by brand name. Half of the girls participating in this survey reported that they usually or oc- casionally bought underwear by brand name. Nearly as many reported buying blouses by brand. Nineteen named shoes as regularly purchased by brand with hose next in frequency. In decreasing order of mention by brand were coats, dresses, suits, skirts, play clothes, sweaters, and hats. There were no individuals who indicated they frequently had to return items which they had received or bought. Five said they occasionally did; forty-four indicating that it was seldom that they had to return articles of apparel which they had purchased. Only three or four mentioned specific garments that had to be returned. ‘When asked to indicate their reasons for having to return these particular items of apparel, poor fit was the usual reason indicated. Other reasons mentioned were that gar- ments were not thought suitable by other members of the family; pulled seams; fabric imperfections, unsatisfactory in color; and one girl said she returned garments because she had changed her mind. All of the girls mentioned that they either frequently or occasionally purchased items on sale. Seventeen frequently bought apparel on sale, While thirty-three said they occasionally purchased such sale merchandise. Seasonal clearance sales were the most common type of sale at which the students purchased clothing. Special promotion sales were mentioned as the next most common source of sale apparel, but only half as many girls bought Special promotion merchandise as those buying clothing at a sea- sonal clearance price reduction. End-of-theemonth sales were patronized by a few of the participants. It is interesting to note that it was the higher expenditure items that the girls most frequently purchased on sale. Coats were purchased he on sale by more than two-thirds of the interviewees where as underwear, for example, was bought on sale by only one person. Table XV summarizes the practices followed in purchasing specific items of sale merchandise. TABLE XV FREQUENCY'WITH'WHICH SPECIFIED ARTICLES OF CLOTHING HERB PURCHASED ON SALE _—— #:— Articles Seasonal Clearance Special Promotion End-of-Mbnth Coats 22 9 3 Jackets , Blazers 6 3 3 School Dresses 10 S 6 Other Occasion Dresses 8 h 7 Suits 12 3 2 Play Clothes lO - 8 Sweaters 1h 5 h Blouses 9 9 7 Skirts 9 6 6 Rebes 2 h 3 Pajamas 3 7 7 Shoes 2 — 2 Hats 1 - - Underwear 1 — - Generally speaking, eighteen participants found sales merchandise completely satisfactory; twenty-seven as moderately satisfactory; while four stated that garments on sale were less satisfactory than those pur- chased at regular prices. The girls were also asked to indicate what constituted the most im— portant reason for their buying clothing on sale. Nearly all of the answers had to do with the amount of money which was saved, but their an- swers to the free response question were varied. Twenty said that they saved money; fifteen indicated that they paid less for the quality they usually were, while ten reported that they could buy a better quality of garment. Five said that they liked the new price. Two mentioned that hi they could spend the money that they saved for extra things. One girl indicated that sales helped her budget and one said that sale prices were where they belonged in the first place so she was just getting what she was entitled to. One mentioned that when wearing small sizes it was easy to get good.buys so she frequently bought her clothes on sale. Participants were asked to indicate their usual method of paying for specified garments. By far the largest group indicated that their usual method of payment was by cash. This was particularly true for the less expensive garments as underwear, sweaters, blouses, jackets and "other occasion" dresses. Eighty to ninety-five per cent of the participants indicated the above items were always purchased with cash. Fifty to sixty per cent said that they paid cash for the more eXpensive garments such as suits, formals and coats. Nineteen of the girls bought their coats on a lay-away payment plan; twelve usually bought their suits and nine usually bought formals by this plan. Apparently, the girls did not have access to charge accounts as not more than 10% indicated that they bought TABL81IVI USUAL PRACTICES FOR PAYMENT FOR SPECIFIED GARMENTS ' Extended No Method Type Garment . Cash. 30-day Charge Payment lay-away Indicated Sweaters hS 1 - l - Underwear MB 1 - - l Blouses hC - - l 1 School Dresses hh 3 — - 3 Jackets h3 l 2 l 3 Other Occasion Dresses hO 5 - 2 3 Skirts 37 h - 3 6 Formals 32 h - 9 S Suits 26 h 2 12 6 Coats 23 S 2 l9 1 .3! unbearwdunflljflllhflu 11“: hz garments of any type on a charge account. Five said that they usually bought coats and "other occasion" dresses by this method. Four purchased suits, skirts and formals on 30-day charge accounts. Only two partici- pants indicated buying even the more expensive items by an eytended pay— ment plan. The seven girls who did not answer this question concerning the method of payment for skirts or suits may be assumed to have usually made their skirts, or in the case of suits, may not have had such garments in thei wardrobes. Sewing Practices An attempt was made to determine how much sewing was done in the homes of the participants, who did this sewing, and the kind of equipment available to then. Forty-nine said that they had sewing machines in their homes, a considerably larger percentage than was indicated in the Montana 6 . . . . study done by Slaughter. 3 Thirty-seven mentioned that their machines TABLE XVII COMPARISCN CF SEHIKU CEYTERS IN 1952 MONTANA STUDY AND 1956 EIfl-MTUEL I‘EESSIONARY COLLEGE STUDY “: * Percentage awning Percentage Percentage Study Sewing Machines Treadle Machines Electric machines iontana CC 75 25 ENC 98 2d were electric; twelve were manually powered. Thirty—four had cabinet machines; nirc had portehles; while six failed to indicate the type. Of the forty-nine machines, forty-three were in a satisfactory working 61 «Slaughter, SE! cit., p. 325. g..- to condition; two were not and three did not know how adequate the sewing machines in their homes were. Forty-three of the girls said that their mothers sewed; five did not. Thirty-five of the girls themselves mentioned doing some type of sewing; thirteen did .0 sewing. Keen asked as to whether theyt Mic flit that their home sewing equipment was adequate, thirty-one said they considered it to be adequate. Fifteen said it was somewhat adequate and only 016 person iclt her equipment was inadequate. Forty-three of the girls said fret the; had several garments in their wardroses which has been made fer them. These interv’swees were asked to indiCute tht tyre ei a,,:rcl 4 rse were, 3; when they were made, and where the }ersen who he; made the garneit had learned to sew. The most ye;:l:r its: (5 apparel made at home was the fldiiu half of the girls said thLy hzd shir s 1.hich they he” made for themselves; fifteen had slirts that thc‘r “others had made for them; nine had skirts made ey'sone other lrre on as a grandmother, sister or aunt. The next most popular item made a. home was the blouse. Twenty-one girls in— dica+ed that they hat made blouses for themselves; nine of their mothers had made blcuees for them; three menticned having Pulouses made by 0+ hers. F( net's: state d tilett the; had scnool dresses which the; had made by 7"" "1"]77"‘° ""3 4 "‘1'”: ’ li‘.’ “ “4“ t“ +1“ " 'i “'7 C‘ 1 m “C? '7 «‘6 n r» (r ‘ ~ In" V.LCT‘,U\, kg), ......i.C V Que - 9’ walk --r A 0 enero c.11LL we 161A nauC‘ QrGouCo ADIUC‘G 21", ct} ers. 'I'wc-ilve mentioned having "other occasion" dresses which they had made for themselves; sir hy their mothers and six by others. Pajam s were next in frequency of ment en hut the mothers had made more than the girls had made. The construction of the other garments made at home was dis tributed quite evenly Between the girls, their nethers, and others. Play clothes, formals, suits, jackets, coat dusters, azn slips represent items n decreasing order of frequency. Only three of the girls indicated ‘40 having garments made for them by dressmakers. Host home sewing was done by those who had learned to sew at home. 1&0 either learned to he Nineteen of the girls and thirteen of the mothers saw at home or were self taught. Seventeen girls and six of their mothers had taken courses in clothing construction in school. There was only one girl and two moths s who mentioned having taken the Singer course. See Table XVIII for further information. TABLE XVIII IdlIHKS'WHERE PARTICIPANTS AND MOTHERS HAD LEARNED TO SEW Where Learned Participants Participants' Mothers Home 19 School 1" Singer Sewiry Machine Ccmyany Dressmakers b-n Club Friends Not Indicated \»+4+4+4e4~ L.J CD! I erOChtu An.attempt was made to find out whether or not the girls preferred to have some clothing items made for them and if so, the reasonS. Thirty-four gave affirmative answers. Most often mentioned as the reason for Lane sewing use the economy factor, twenty-nine of the thirty- four responding. Twenty-three suggested they could get a better fit in the garments which were made for them. Twenty thought that the quality of the fabric was better. Eighteen liked the individual styling in garments made at home. Seventeen said they definitely "enjoyed the creativeness" in sewing. Fifteen liked the superior construction of garments made at home. Ten said they usually had to alter ready-toawear so they "might as 1:5 well make it to begin vith." Three indicated that hy making their garments they "could get exactly what they wanted." Skirts were first choice among apparel items that thirty-five of the interviewees preferred to have made for them. About half as many said they liked to have school dresses made for them. In decreasing order of prefer- ence for specific home sewed garments thirteen specified "other occasion" dresses; twelve, blouses; nine, suits; eight, formals; eight, pajamas; and seven, play clothes. Twenty-two mentioned economy as the primary reason they preferred to have these garments made for them. Eighteen mentioned fit; seven preferred the style of the garments they made for themselves and seven said these garments had more "individuality." Four stated that their home sewed clothing was of better quality. When asked to list the garments that they preferred not to have made for them, costs were mentioned most frequently, followed.by suits, play clothes, formals, school dresses, blouses, "special occasion" dresses, slips, and party dresses. Ten indicated their reason for not liking to have these garments made for them was because of their "homemade look." Ten said that such articles as coats and suits were too complicated. Seven thought that garments such as blouses were almost as cheap when purchased readyamade as when made at home. Three reported that they could get a good fit in ready-to-wear so there was no reason for making them at home. Two said they liked to try on several garments before purchasing and in home construction this was, of course, impossible. One person Specifically mentioned coatings as too bulky to sew on and one suggested that home sewing was "too big a chance." h6 nalysis of Buying Practices Economic Background of Participants Sufficient data had heen obtained from the questionnaire to make some interesting observations and interpretations. Comparisons of the buying practices of different types of families represented in this study, with the families in similar studies done in other parts of the country show both similarity and differences. It should be borne in mind that 73% of the students in this survey were from middle income bracket families with annual incomes between $3,000 and $7,h99. Although these earnings provided sustenance for a possible average of five to six individuals; namely father, mother and three to four children, in actuality one-third of the siblings in the study were financially independent persons who were supposedly not drawing on the finances of their families. The financial background from one home to another was greatly varied in aspects other than earnings. In fifteen of the homes, the participant was the only dependent child. n fourteen homes, there was one other dependent child; in twelve homes there were two additional dependents; in sevenihomes there were three additional dependents and in two homes there ‘%\“ were four to six additional dependents. Financing a college education meant a heavy financial drain in many of these homes so the amount of money available for living expenses including clothing for the entire family showed a marked variation. Geographical and Residential Factors Affecting Buying It has keen pointed out in other similar studies that geographical location and residential areas influenced the buying practices of the III," In.» t 1.1% .3. .. a . . a... a 1,. .. 1:7 family. This study, hot-rever, represents a larger :eok'rraphic area than most of the similar studies which have been done. With the exception of instances cited by the U. S. D. A., the other surveys on buying practices so, Iiilxrraukee, and Ithaca, New York, or were done in cities such as Chicao on a university campus where the participants were largely from that particular state. Thirty-five per cent was the largest number of partici- pants in this survey from any one state. From southern Indiana to northern B'ichigan represents a wide climatic difference, and the types of clothing in the wardrobes of girls from these extreme points would be expected to be somewhat different to meet their needs at home as well as at school. The girls from Florida, Oklahoma and North Carolina and the one participant from Haiti shared different views on winter coats, for example. One expressed it this way, "I have just one and it's the first and last one I expect to buy." The type and expected price to pay for winter coats for girls from the South were naturally different than for those girls from the northern states. The populations of the cities from which the participants came might be a Cogent factor in their spending habits. The largest group were from to‘l’nS with less than 2 ,E’OO inhabitants and the second largest group were from cities having; a population of FC,OOO to 100,000. A tabulation W83 “Ede to determine any differences in the types Cf stores pat- onized by thes- 9 o 6‘ C31ffcrent groups, in the extent of sewing done by these girls or thej .p . .r -'—lelieS, and in their practices relative to buying; sales In the type of stores patronized there were two appreciable differ- €nc€3 . *‘Io rlrstly, the “_‘lr1$ from. the small towns or rural areas ordered leir c « ' ‘ . lothes by mail-order three times as often as the girls who lived 118 in cities of 50,000 to 100,000 popula ion. Apparel items ordered were largely lingerie, blouses, skirts or play clothes. Secondly, when rural or suburhan girls shopped in town they more often bought their clothing in exclusive dress shops than did the girls who came from the larger cities. Could it be that psychologically these girls off-set an inferiority feeling resulting from their mail-order purchases by shopping in a prestige type of store for such items as coats, "other occasion" dresses and formals? Purchases by both groups at department stores, specialty shops, and chain stores were equivalent for their other garments. The interviewees coming from smaller towns made slightly more of their garments than the girls from the larger cities. While there was an inc: onsequential difference in the number of mothers or participants who ‘ ' each group it appears that perhaps the girls from the small town set-sea in had slightly more garments made for her. Sales were patronized by a higher percentage of the rural participants. Perhaps these girls had followed newspaper advertisements for seasonal clearance sales with the definite intention of purchasing sales merchandise, and Planned to shop in the larger towns when sales were in progress. how- ever 13his is only an interpretation by the interrogater. The "farm" family in the locality served by Emmanuel Missionary Con-889. is typically living in the country but near enough to a city so that at least one person in the family is employed away from the farm. The interaction of the families in this environment is considerably different than that of farm families where farm land is extensive and the towns all small and far apart. Farm families in the Michigan area might be expected to - , ’ and Co have different quring practices than those Nebraska farm , F . . . . families reported by Schlaphoff and Burema,‘11 in whicn tne farm women made many gannents for their families. ‘thcr Comparisons and Differences The college sophomores in this st idy asserted adult independence in the purchase of their clothing. In only two instances was there an in- dication that the decision of the parent superceded the wishes of the Participant in selection of her clothing. Ninety per cent of the interviewees indicated they always or occa- sicriailly tried on coats, suits, "other occasion" dresses, formals, jackets, school dresses and skirts before purchas' 1g. It might be assumed that Sarrnents such as coats and suits which were not tried on were gifts, as there was little indication of these garments being purchased by mail- order. The other items which were seldom tried on before purchase might have been mail-order purchases or garments which had been made at home. The number of gannents tried on before purchase were slightly less than r GPOrted in the study 13' Rosner in t-rhich 9937‘: always or frequently tried on coats , suits, cotton dresses and wool skirts before purchasing. ’ Fewer "hand-me-donms" were received by the participants in this stu y than I-rere indicated in studies by Rosner,66 but nearly five times asmany as indicated by Wolfe.67 In contrast to the U. S. D. A. study which ‘rv? ‘ 1““icated that "hand—"c-domts" were not particularly well received,68 most ‘ 0 51"(V 'uchlaphoff and Burema, 92. cit., pp. h03,hOh. 6t” )RCSIICI‘, 220 2%" P0 71’ 66 . DDldo, p. 89. Wolfe, 93-. cit., r- 51. 68 ‘3 fi\ 0 ~I‘c'w, O'Leary and man, £2.c1t., p. 2. )9 H. . cf the interviewees in this investigation were usually or sometimes pleased with these "gifts" of used clotl;ing. The group of interviewees exercised the usual young woman's pieroga- tive of Shopfing several places before purchasing. Greater interest was (‘- manifc ted in sr.c p ing at this age level than in the U. a. D. A. survey . a . 60 reported by nockstim. ’ The participants in this study followed a similar practice to that indicated in Consumer Report of not contributing to the return goods market70 as they seldom returned unsatisfactory garments for exchar ;e or credit. Methods of payment by the igterviewees in this study and other similar studies are, for the most pa rt, cozipar rable. Cash was the usual method of payment. However only 10? in this stady used charge accounts as compared Pi+h 33$ in the Chicago survey by Rosner.71 Perhaps this was because shcfjin5 was done away from home where the girls did not have access to the iamil) charge account. Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with Sgecified AEEarel Items A rersena} interview was arranged with each one of the participants to try to ascertain what her particular reasons were for liking or dis- liking specified articles of we aring apparel. The specific garments discussed with her were blouses, sizirts, winter coats, "other occasion" dresses and formals. 69uocks tim, _p_. c__:_‘L_t., pp. 25,26. 70 , Consumer Re ort, 92. cit., pp. lbO-h2. 71Rosner, 22. cit., pp. 63,6h. The first three were chosen because it was felt that every college girls' wardrobe would include tnece occasion" dreescs were cnos n 1L an they verc to the 0011659 Birls, and ments were worn. .pecified articles of apjarel. "Other atte rt to deterxine how important 1. to find for wast occasion these gar— Formals were included in order to determine how necessary the girls attending ansnucl Missionary College considered them to be. Blouses 4., .i '— . 4. ~Jg.v€.a t..'.‘.u U) l I) Forty of the girl ready-made while five been made at heme. half cf them. The COtton echocl blouse at least one was reported owning at least one Dacron owned wool jersey blouses; Lourteen, blouses and one each had a linen or her wardrobe. Prices paid ranged from $1.00 .Y'EB », .; I '“9 £-Ia-h(‘ for one of nylon tricot. range which they :1h 5 cotton school blouse was $1.1?- said that most cf the Five stated that they bouén, owned by raen of the fifty participants. of blouses purchased ready-made. , the uléfiCSt, they'bought most of their blouses 'blcuses in their wardrobe had about half and made about was the most yopular reads—nude blouse and Thirty-seven or Dacron and cotton blouse. Sixteen nylon tricot; six owned dressy cotton linen-like, lace or satin blouse in for a cotton school blouse to $12 which The girls were asked to list the price felt would be within their ludéets for these different The lowest price suggested for a $?.OO; while thirty—nine of __ ...' C» _‘ ,- 4‘ A? ’ r" ' ‘ _ fl. ‘ ~ _. _ .4 ~ , girl- retortcd o3.00 to u§.OO Jug the Irosuble }PLC6 they would Tfly. For the cotton dressy blouses which the girls owned, the lowest h., 0 A ~- : ~ 3. \ ouggeeted {rice was 3h.uc and the nianest, $L.OO. D’.‘ -. o o v iour oi Six partICipants was for a blouse of Dacron or Dacron—cotton hlend was $h.OO to $6.00. The mode rcyortod by The lowest price suggested $2.00 with a maximum price of $7.00. Three to five dollars was the suggested grice range indicated by twenty-s ‘r. of the tnirty-sever. Q rls o. miz-go' this t ope of ‘ n n .. ' x 1 r- 77 o “O, f: blouse. The lot-rest suggested price ior a nylon trieot blouse wag .92.,0, 1.1.1136 the most expensive price was $12, with eight out of fourteen girls tating that tngsr would expect to pay between $14.00 and 328.00 for this type C!) of garment. The erpechd low price for a wool jersey blouse was $3.00 and the highest, $7.00. Ten out of si.‘ :teen reporting said that they would expect to pay between $11.00 and 35.00 for a wool jersey blouse. As there were only one each of the other blouses owned by the girls, no price trend can be established . Fourteen of the girls 01 "nee cot ton school blouses that had been made for then. Tue indicated price ran; e fox them was from $1.35 to $11.00. Nine of the iour.ecn said thct they would expect to 12:13; between $1. 50 and fi". _r\‘ A. ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ' w'fi .iO for the material -or sucn a blouse. Only one said that sne had a Cotton dressy blouse which she had made and she said she thought it had c‘ ~ A 2 ‘ .- ~. ., . - - . . ~. ~ co... agent 291.50. the nae. naee :- uizchJJ. blcuse costing $3.0C3 two nae; “re-C wool jerse;vsior which the prices were quite different. Etisi‘actcgi Blouses The interviet-Jees were asked to selects school blouse which they liked better than their others or miich they wore more than others and to deseribe this blouse as to its style, fabric and color. Thirt '-nine sta ed that they 12referred a tailored t3me blouse; ten said they 1i}: ed best a soft dressy blouse; ::-hile ore girl had no blouse which she liked better than another. Long sleeved blouses were twice as Popular. as blouses with short sleeves among; their best likedg, ar .mnts. fi 01126:er a ‘ 9 Were also the most cormon design factor mentioned in answer to \3-1 5 this open—end Question. The shirt blouse with the mamash collar was a frequent preference. Cotton was by for the most commonl;r preferred material. Fabric w". 'irls were apparently md‘amiliar as thirty- a term wit‘11 which most of the four becificd cotton fiber while only three indicated the i‘ brie in this CIsti'rnemt. T113 cottons Specified were batisto, broadcloth and "no iron“ cotton. ‘13110‘11t liked best blouses which were made from Dacron and four Preferred blouses made from a cotton-Dacron blend. Twenty—one reported preference for white blouses. Stripes, checks, 01‘ all-over rints in multi-colo s were indicated by i‘om'tcen girls to be their color preference. Four specified tnat they liked blue; four, yellow; two, aqua; two, black; and cm.- each mentioned green, red, and pin}: as her Q CClOr preference in :- clcase. (sireahle characteristics w11icL1 made her consider 3 ’Hfi— 0 fl"-"\ ~‘ Jncn uahbu the 1‘ . . 1 1 u,”- . _ - v . ' - u ' t11e specific bloa so sne 11st. 1.;oicateo as aer most SéztlLJfLin-OIV one, it was found that egiillf i: I,c'rtant factors to tilC participant were style, color and ease of care. Fit and comfort were factors mentioned almost as fI‘Equenti‘_;-'. A small or umber of tgirls mentioned construction, durability 01‘ the. fabric of the blouse. Listed in Table. '( ii are the reasons given for 3'” t i o V ti'~—‘-l‘:<'.‘1c1:...o' with the best-likes. blo ouscs iniatisfactgq Blouses Interviewees were also as‘ V‘ - o N ‘ ‘ _ r-y- , . f‘ ‘.\-v— >. at, ‘ . ‘-.‘. ‘ IL - n. r- x -s.— . ' “ r C... c; Mules.“ ,1.“ i; -C‘--l'\., .- l“._..‘. Til»; -(.,,.ed’T-c ‘c a gaff €I‘1: f!" V o ‘4. k ‘y I—~., . ‘-~. 1 fl .- ‘‘‘‘‘ q q ~ ‘ fi 0 Q _ ‘L r Lbi.‘ ~A—.-KA... yxh~_~ L\] 7“. ~ L. ‘\ 'J. fl 7;,ij - .LD—T.' L‘-L +~-$~:‘ 'UTC.~C 1.1—4 bu. [Ex ~-.mto~--.:-- ~-t r" , ‘. +-. \- ~~-+ +‘ ~ ~~ ~ v 1-1 .._~.._.t n. ‘ “(4.- U-L ‘yuhiuag. ._ -‘l - *J-u'. ._:;.1.‘»\.VC\.:..L'-J .I.._u4.1 ,- -\. ‘)]_(»‘--n KI... +"‘I:'VP “w 0* '> “:'1-~' ‘ '3 9?:2 " v. 7| .'l‘-: '7‘ i~v 3-0:. a. - 1 n: 7 . l . -Lu __ ,Cei t m _.--c--.. .mctmle ..-..t. let 1; rear oi frec'LCI‘ev of m, V .‘L I 9 . + (01717: rap“ (+1.1. w+ i-‘tn J~ — ~ ~ ~ ° L -‘ . 1 x .L g Jul ....\-, 11 s --_L ..-\ \l L A 3.- g)' n r --:> 1‘\ ' -7 4. “n1 1" r‘ N -" J- 1»2p.’. ‘ w .t f! ‘0 o n I . -Q - to on. -e i U rel‘ _ ”I“ (1177.4.01‘t. 111313-13" Ci. ‘txc rate-rial "’ “T“ V? J1. 4 A'\ ‘ ~ ~~ * . - .-- r, ~‘r‘ m” - v1?- w-x-r fi7C7-~j-T th‘.‘r{ ‘1‘" h ~~' In. I: ._ .2 “I“ 1‘. lib-{£40 -i ‘o‘u‘ 0*‘i‘ L.- - o- -- an ,..- w. L . - “v, .- .,. Lin (r oi l.v‘ug:.u -I_ 1’ . 4 '71,“)! “(coins but-tosel -ctl fly I. . «allit'cf'flr ‘TC: t;;ahfik+ s‘iwgv -10. _‘ \ _ fo»“ :1" “.3- CL ....L'.Lt' o o I I o o 0 O I o O 0 ~ -- 1n 7‘ r , ' xIrxingness was mentioned by more than half of the girls as being either their first or second consideration in selecting a new "other occaSi 011" type of dress. Suitability was mentioned by twenty-four of the 83 participants as either a first or second consideration. In tallying first, second and third choices, becomingness was the most significant consider- ation and next in frequency of mention was comfort, followed by suitability and general appearance. Approximately 80% of the girls listed the approval of friends as sixth or seventh in order of importance. More than half of them said cost would be sixth or seventh in order of importance. Analysis of Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with "Other Occasion" Dresses Prices paid for "other occasion" dresses were considerably higher than that found in the Cincinnati study reported by Myers.77 Whether the Price is overstated or whether these college SOphomore girls exercise the usual practice of spending more for their clothing than other members of the family is an unanswered question. This type of garment apparently had frequently been made from unsub- S1-‘31’7ttial material as the reasons given for dissatisfaction often indicated P°°r construction and inferior material. The fabric from which most "other occasion" dresses were made was rayon or acetate. Blue was the dominant color mentioned for both satisfactory and un3in‘l::i_sf;=1ctery dresses as well as the choice of color in selecting a new ' I! 0 th er occasion" dress. Apparently, as a group they were bOth emphatic as well as contradictory in their reaction to blue. The first portion of this study showed that "other occasion" dresses were considered as high style garments. Pleasing style was indicated by more participants than any other factor as the reason for satisfaction with the specified well-liked dress. Becomingness and suitability for the 77 - Myers, 92. 923., pp. l-h. 8h occasion were listed as first and second in order of importance in pur- chasing "other occasion" dresses. Apparently the interviewees expected this garment to be a "Special" dress. It was interesting to note the various types of activities or occasions for which the girls considered this garment to be appropriate. The term apparently meant different things to the different individuals. Formals The number of formals which the fifty participants in this study owned ranged from none to four. Three said that they did not currently own a formal. Tidenty-one girls had one formal each, twenty owned two, four had three, and two owned four formals. Forty-eight girls stated that the occasion for which they most fre- quently wore a formal was a banquet. Almost two-thirds of the girls r CPOrted having purchased formal dresses for weddings. Forty per cent used their formals in musical presentations and 15% said that they wore them When they ushered at Concert-Lacture series programs, etc. Approximately twice as many of the girls had purchased their formals re"ild.\v'-Inade as had made them at home. Prices paid for their ready-made dresses ranged from 310 to $16. 0f the forty-nine girls who currently owned or had owned a formal, twenty-two said that they would expect to pay between $15 and 5325. Twenty-three said that their price range would be from 325 to $35. The others indicated a cost either below or above these ”Sires-ted norms. The cost of formals made at home [ranged from $600 to 325 and fourteen said that they would eXPGCt the °°St to be between $10 and $15 if they were to make one. one girl very emphatically stated that she had never had a formal and that a «all . . e never expected to have one because sne wasn't gong to waste her 85 money on formals as long as there were so many good books and records and other types of worthwile things for which she wanted to spend her money. Satisfactory Formals Twenty-three of the participants indicated a preference for ballerina length formals while nine preferred long dresses. Strapless styled formals with jackets outnumbered those without Jackets by two to one. The girls indicated that it was difficult to find a formal which.would conform to school standards unless they purchased a strapless formal with a jacket. The best liked formals of twenty-eight of the girls were made from net and taffeta. Five had dresses made from net, taffeta and lace; three from net, satin and lace, and three of crystalette. Other types of fabrics mentioned were frosted nylon, flocked nylon, embroideried net, chiffon, velvet, and brocade. Three of the jackets were made of velvet or velveteen. Ten reported that their preferred formals were blue in color. Nine mentioned pink and five indicated that the color of their best-liked formals was coral, white or yellow. Three of the girls had green dresses; two were of aqua. Formals of red and white, red, lavender, pink and blue varigated, and rose were mentioned. There were sixty-seven responses concerning the style of their best liked formals. Some mentioned either the style or that the ballerina length was pleasing. A number of girls said that they particularly liked the specific dresses they had indicated because the skirts were very full and stiff. Three girls liked their dresses because they were "different." Liking for the color or the fact that the color was flattering was indicated by two-thirds of the participants. Almost half of the girls said they liked the fit of their preferred formals and eight specifically mentioned the material as pleasing to them. In the miscellaneous list of reasons such Cd attributes as being feminine, modest, or new were listed. Table XXVII gives details of reasons for preferring their formals. TABLE XXVII REASONS FOR SATISFACTION WITH SPECIFIED FORMALS C‘ \ Number of Responses Reasons Sub-total Total Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Ballerina length 26 Interesting 2h Skirt very full and stiff 6 Floor length 5 Unusual 3 Becoming 2 Like general appearance 1 00101. O C O . C O O O O O O O 0 O . . O O . C O O O 3 1 Like color 17 Color flattering 1h FitingOdooooo00000000000000.23 Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Like material 5 Has two layers of net 1 Like the net overskirt 1 Like the trimming 1 Miscellaneous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Net not overdone New Mbdest Feminine Many things go with it Well made Comfortable Doesn't scratch HHHHHHHH ygsatisfactory Formals Sixteen of the interviewees said that they liked all of the formals which they owned and had none they considered as unsatisfactory. Of the thirty-four reporting formals which they wore infrequently or did not 87 like, eleven indicated that these formals were long; six were short. Twelve were without jackets and eleven were strapless with a jacket. Fifteen reported that net and taffeta were the fabrics from which 'these disliked formals were made. Five specifically mentioned that the entire formal was made from taffeta; six were of net, taffeta and lace; TABLE XXVIII REASONS FOR REGARDING INFREQUENTLI WORN FORMALS AS UNSATISFACTORY Number of Responses Reasons Sub-total Total Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Always stepping on it Dislike style Long Too plain Short Too old fashioned Unsatisfactory HHHUUIUION» Fit prdblems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l5 Fit poor 12 Neck too low 3 cal-or . C O O O O C C O 0 O C O C O O O O C C O O . 7 Dislike color 5 Unbecoming 1 Looks faded by candlelight l Tired of garment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . h Naterialunsatisfactory..... . ...... . . 11 Jacket doesn't match 1 Net unsatisfactory l Hangs oddly l Trimming unsatisfactory' 1 Miscellaneous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Doesn't look like fermal without net 3 Battered and worn out 3 Doesn't look as expected 1 looks homemade 1 Looks cheap 1 Hard to press 1 88 three of crystalette, one of crystalette and net; two of satin; and others either of flocked nylon or nylon sheer. As for color, these unsatisfactory garments in seven of the thirty- four responses were pink. Five each were aqua or lavender; four of blue; and in decreasing order of frequency the dresses were yellow, white, peach or rose in color. Approximately half of the participants listed their reason for dis- liking their formals as dislike of the style. Poor fit was indicated by fifteen respondents while the color was disliked by seven of the girls. Four said they were tired of the garment; four stated that the fabric was not satisfactory. The miscellaneous answers were varied. Three said that the garments which they had specified were too "battered and worn out" to be pleasing . Table XXVIII sumnarizes reasons for rating these specific formals as unsatisfactory. Style, Fabric and Color Preference in Selecting a New Formal Formals were one type of garment for which the girls apparently wished to shop before making a decision. Thirty-one indicated no preference as to 1’he style they would choose in a new formal. Fifteen mentioned they would buy a short dress as against four who would purchase a long gown. Twelve Preferred a dress without a jacket but seven would buy a formal having a JaCket. Eight had no idea as to the kind of fabric they would buy, but more of them knew what they would look for in fabric than what they would look for in StYIe. Sixteen said if they were buying a formal it would be made from net and taffeta and eight would choose chiffon. Crystalette was the in- dica . . ted Chaice of five girls; three would buy a lace-net-taffeta combination 89 and occasional mention was made of velvet, velveteen, satin, lace or brocade . Almost a third of the interviewees had no color preference for a new formal while ten would purchase a blue dress. Next in order of popularity was green, with pink, white and aqua, raspberry, yellow, mauve, peach, salmon, and green and white in decreasing order of frequency as desired colors . Shopping Considerations in Purchasing Formals When asked to place in order of importance to them such shopping considerations as general appearance, becomingness, suitability, service- ability, comfort, cost and approval of friends, the most frequently men- tioned consideration was becomingness. Almost two-thirds of the inter- viewees rated becomingness as first or second in importance. General appearance was mentioned by more than half of the girls. Only two rated serviceability as second in importance and more than half of the girls rated serviceability as either sixth or seventh in importance. Approval of friends was accorded seventh place a majority of times, but fewer rated it seventh for fonnals than for the other classification of garments. Forty per cent listed cost as sixth or seventh in importance to them. Table XXIX gives detailed information. Analysis of Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with Formals Most of the participants seemed to feel that there were sufficient occasions for the use of a formal to make the investment worthwhile. Some expressed the belief, however, that the formals which they had purchased to "931' in weddings were an unnecessary expense. Formals made at home were considerably less expensive but often times not as well-liked as formals purchased ready-made. It would have been worthwhile to have irmiufleo a Specific Question concerning whether or not liked and disliked garments were purchased ready-made. Style and color were more important than material and workmanship in formals. Care and upkeep of this type of garment was mentioned infre- quently, and in rating: characteristics to be considered in purchasing a new garment, serviceability was listed as sixth or seventh in importance by more than half of the participants. The girls apparently expected this type of garment would not give lengthy service. Ballerina length gowns were preferred. Blue was the predominantly preferred color and the most frequent choice for a new dress. Formals were most often purchased in specialty dress shops and department stares, but a comparable number came from exclusive dress shops. __ __ TABLE XXIX QLCPIIVG CLLSILLRATIOKS FOR SPLClEIED JARHEETS Order of Iflportagcc 91 ¢Jarmcnt Characteristic 1 2 , 7 ‘Blouses General appearance 12 10 6 6 11 h 1 Becomingness 11 9 7 11 7 S O s itakility 11 1o 6 12 S E 1 Scrviccability F 7 lb 9 3 5 1 Comfort 8 10 15 S 9 h 0 Cost 3 h 2 6 9 l9 7 Approval of friends 0 O 1 l l 7 ho £3kirts General appearance 8 9 1h 8 3 7 l Becomingncss 15 8 10 8 6 2 l Suitability 8 S 10 8 10 9 o Serviceahility 8 1h h 12 6 h 2 cam-6m 9 12 7 C 9 h 1 Cost 2 2 h 6 ll 17 8 Ayproval of friends 0 O l O 5 7 37 Efinter Coats General appearance 10 12 9 9 6 3 l Beccmingncss 13 11 11 F 6 2 2 Suitability 1c» 6 9 E 9 8 1 Serviccability 8 10 9 8 7 6 2 Comfort 2 7 8 16 13 h 0 Cost 7 2 h 6 5 22 h Approval of friends 0 O O l h 5 hO Other Occasion Dresses dencral apjc;rance 9 C 11 9 10 1 2 Beccmingness 15 12 7 6 7 2 1 sump-111w 16 8 5 h 6 7 h Servieeability 3 8 6 10 9 9 5 Comfort 3 9 16 ll 6 h 1 Cost 'h 2 h 7 7 1h 12 Approval of friends 0 3 l 3 5 13 25 Forhuails General appearance 13 1h 8 h 8 1 1 Becomingness 18 13 8 S 3 1 1 Suitability 1o 9 5 10, 7 2 3 Serviceability O 2 5 6 8 15 13 Comfort 3 9 9 13 10 5 0 CC st 9 2 6 6 10 11 9 Approval of friends 0 O S 5 3 1 22 TABLE XXX ' PREFERRED COLORS FOR SPECIFIED WELL-LIKED GARMENTS Cther Occasion Color Blouses Skirts Coats Dresses Formals Total .Figurcd or multi- 1h 5 8 12 b h3 colored material Blue I; S h in 10 37 EBlack or charcoal 2 22 6 7 - 37 '.'.-'nite 21 1 - 1 S 28 T”else - - 10 3 - l3 'Brewn - 9 2 2 ’ l3 Ckray - 3 8 1 ‘ 12 Green 1 l 3 b 3 12 IPiJflc 1 - - r 9 l2 IMQLHB 2 2 2 l 2 9 Yellow 1; - - — E 9 Red 1 - 2 3 2 8 Co ral .. .. .. _ 5’ 5’ Ebacoek - 8 - 2 - - . 2 lavender - - - - l l4 +4 Rose _ - — - l TARIE XXXI RAFKINGS CF REASCNS FUR SATISFACTICN FCR FIVE SIECIFIC HELL-LIKED GARMENTS Reasons for Winter Other Occasion Satisfaction Blouses Skirts Coats Dresses Formals Style 1 h l 1 1 Color 2 2 6 3 2 Ease of Care 3 1 F 5 Not indicated N3tcrial and 11 6 11 6 L Construction Fit 5’ 3 3 2 3 Comfort 6 S 2 h Negligible TAELE XXXII RANKIYGS OF REASONS FOR DISSATISFACTION FOR FIVE SPECIFIC DISLIKED GARMENTS W Reasons for Winter Other Occasion Dissatisfaction Blouses Skirts Coats Dresses Formals Fit and Comfort 1 l 3 2 2 Style 2 3 2 3 1 Material and 3 h l l S Construction Care h 2 6 6 6 Color E 5 5 5 3 Tired of Garment 6 6 h h h —— CHAPTER V SUMMARY Pugose _o_J_‘.‘_ the. Stu__dx The purpose of this survey was to investigate the buying practices of fifty college sophomores at Emmanuel Missionary College and to deter- mine satisfacticns and dissatisfactions derived from five specific gar— ments; namely, blouses, skirts, winter coats, "other ocassion" dresses and formals. Two procedur s were ‘sed in tnis investigation-~a questionnaire and an interview. The first portion of the questionnaire union was filled in by the fifty volunteers was used as a means of establishing personal family data including coulosition of the family, employment patterns, approximate family income, etc. Part II of the questionnaire was a s hedule designed to secure information on individual clothing preferences and buying fractices. Information concerning self-employment of the participants was obtained along with clotnin; expenditures, extent of parental influence in buying practices, comparative practices in purchase of ready-toawear garments versus their construction in the home, etc. In the interview, questions were asked concerning satisfactions and dissatisfactions with 4-3. '9: . n -.- ' tne speeiiied apparel items. Findin? M (f) and Interpretations nest of the participants were from middle income families having an average of three to four children. Ninety per cent of the fathers were employed, primarily in skilled crafts, agricultlral pursuits, professional and manegcrio l foe itions, or in clerical and sales work. Nearly 60% of the mothers were employed full-time or part-time outside the home. as average educational cit mi.n(z t of the fathers was 10.9 years while the aothcrs' schooling averaged 12.1 years. All of the girls participating in this study were members of the F, Seventh-day Adventist church, as were 622 of their fathers and 92% of g . . 3 their mothers. E Ninety-,Jo per cent of the participants were between eighteen and ‘ twenty years of age. All fifty girl-sl as seen employed at some type of job. Thirty—four h ad worked ofi‘-campus where they had received rertunera- tion in cash while sixteen had worked only at a school plant where their earnings had been credited to their statements. Beyond tithe and church offerin;s, thirty-one saved part of‘ their earrinrs for school CXpenses ant twenty—or e parchased at leas part of flieir pcrs one 1 clothing. Seven had no pla n for the way they age t their money wl ile seventeen indicated that they followed a plan for their clothing expenditure. The majority oi” the clothix’ which the girls owned had been purchased ready-made, largely from independent or chain department stores and SP€Cialty shops. The types of stores at which apparel items were purchased were most often determined by the quality and price of the merchandise, the availability of styles and the fashionaoleness of the apparel. Seventy—five per cent of the participants usually and 20$ sometimes SQOF?€d with someone when purchasing major ready-toawear items. Eighty- 3! six per Cent so. zetimcs shOpped with someone for less important garments. The girls mostf roquently shopped with their mothers. Two-thirds of the participants indicated that altho*ch the} shopped “1th their parents, the final decision in case of a difference of opinion 96 J. was their choice. Approximately a third indicated theu such situations usually resulted in a compromise while two girls said their parents made the final decision. Kore than 801 of the respondents shopped in more than one place for suits, coats, formals, "other occasion" dresses, skirts and jackets. More than 50% shepped in more than one store for blouses, robes and sweaters. Eighty per cent indicated that they seldom shepped in more than one place L for underwear. Most apparel was tried on before purchasing. No one frequently returned items which they bought and only 10% indicated they ; occasionally did so. More than 60? sa'd they had "hand-me-downs" in their wardrobe. Sisters were the largest contributors of tJiS type of clothing. About one-third indicated that gifts constituted a significant number of garments in their wardrobe. All of the participants frequently or occasionally purchased items. which were on sale. Forty-five of the fifty girls found sale items either moderately or completely satisfacte~y. Economy was their foremost reason for purchasing wearing apparel on sale. Most clothing was purchased by cash payment. More expensive items were sometimes placed on lay-away. Few had access to charge accounts. Ninety-eignt per cent of the participants came from homes in which there were sewing machines. Sixty per cent indicated that their home sewing equipmen. was adequate. Eiyhty-five per cent had several garments in their wardrobe whicu had been made for then. Skirts, blouses and BChxfl_dresses were the most p paler home sewed articles of apparel. Nest home sewing was done by those who had learned at home, although seventeen of the participants themselves had been enrolled in clothing construction in school. 97 The participants '.-1:.:o had L;e.rments union had seen made for them felt that home construction saved money, produced better fit and assured better ouslity in clotnimg. Coats and suits they generally agreed mould Y‘e pur- chased ready-made. Tile-3e were considered too complicated to make at home. Some thought they too}: on a "homemade" look. :- Satisizcticns and Dissatisfaction with Specified Garments Blouses -——-—-- Most blouses were rurchased ready-made. Tailored white cotton blouses were the most regular. Pleasi‘i; style and color, ease of care, _ good general appearance, comfort and fit, and durability were listed in a decreasing order of frequency as their reasons for satisfaction with specified well-liked ‘nlouscs. In order of decreasing frequency poor fit, lack of style, unpleasing el";c.3ra;'1ce , care and color problems and lack of cluralrility Mere given as their reasons for dissatisfaction with a specific blouse. Skirts Straigl'xt SJCiI‘tS were usually purchased ready-made. Gathered skirts were made at home twice as often as they were purchased. Straib‘ht t‘lack or charcoal wool skirts were the composite cl.oice of intC'I‘Vim-zees for skirts mien they regarded as most satisfactory. Pleasing o -, ..-. ,-:. ~. - ‘. _ olor, ease of care cm1p1.e..-P, and é,ooo fit were tne most frequently 1.: .(‘~+ ‘ o g 1 O O 'I o 0 1~' In reasons for COIESldCI‘lng tne spec1fied skirts as satisfactory. Poor fit 0% fl ‘ ‘ a Cure yroelems, and oisfleasin—g style more the most often mentioned re a - - - ~ . - , . ~. . 350110 for dislilzing tne s.;1rt.: they indicated. 98 Uinter Coats Hone of the interviewees had costs in tneir possessian wnicn had L'en made for them. Approximately one-third of the girls rlanzed to buy their winter coats when they were on sale. loose fittin, wool coat: in kasic colors of beige, 5ray, black or at the 5:! d “n4 more often than not with sleeves J-ic11 ':er€ t3dht r‘ . k.‘ a, L&.A\A txnttom, were preferred By a maioritr of tn: garticigarts. Pleasing style, ; vere most often listed as the reasons '“ird ”ell-li‘cd "in’er coats. Peer ' .» ' . -J—‘. . '-. ...? ‘.- ‘ atztir, satisfactior it” SLCC1Li a t s -.. l -. 'nf‘ ‘" {f V, ~ c L...V-i a...- «CT; lack of duratilit3, and leiné tired of {45 on - n .V, w a I" ‘ '. an 4L:r‘ 6 J -, ‘. ‘ . - t- 1 t *3 fl» -.-I‘~ t‘fc ircqic-+ rea-. {<1 ti l-uitt-si ”3+; ir.er costs. UTC tisiactci3 ,-‘.-«.L.. .' 'I ,,".‘, ,— \ - a 1- . .. - '\ -- 1 13 -J- 5"»." '7- f.- " U. I s..." CL TL 3 -..k (ft/101" ‘_ I ("1 ‘ r 7.1 1‘1! 3 .nO\ ‘(“.’(.‘r, - ....“ Jed ALMcil“. ‘T (—0 (‘1. t/CJIO ""* tr Ccc:ricr" are- cs ________.__________._______ Here {nan 15? cf tJC ,artLCiI His farchrccd their "ctaer ocean as" \iIYTSbF” r:“r“—*cde. Tre-tfiirer cf intro yrcferrcd ir sses had full shirts, vuxL. i rge~qu rtzr 3:“UL- :l‘cves "ere rentit‘ra more cften than other types Ad' 0 -... .7... .- ,. 4‘ ..,. m. . - , Alme;t 6s, c4 tn ac agesoes nelo mace ire“ raven or wet etc. Lt;:1?1y'c tLird Cf tnem Vere llaC. ‘ ..-. . ,. “. 4 “V, p ... _ ° ,-, V. ,_ ,.‘ ,- .m- ~ Reasons .Cot citen given ier \ r,ic,“rl' jlil’; a “resilicd "other 1" dress were interestin; styling, good fit, and pleasing color. PC I (‘9 .. ' I n n a (T1? t, few” construction, inierier material 31d unteecnins style were ...4. .1. fr€(“‘ .-4. - - - ltler.z causes fn£('L~ v + t V'.A\-_ I ‘ . fl . .- ~ I. r- r. W ' " ii-l?cilt to errcroe in orgci of .101“; 1A 1., ,3 Vim-n .~ _ r n .1.“ "7b I‘LC Ubfilaeg . soizhg'l’lurc were tyyical of the girls t; 16";1' l ecrzcc irom crfcrietc Cfis“ - J _ ‘ __ w . ~ ‘~‘-tit4teo tr leewavtc callL_r " r Zro T.;sc.u1r13 VAC .ere lcrbcl fr 1 fl -' o o 10 (3N1 tJ< Leer—s t;;c area of illln018, Inaiana .ichi an .rd Wis onsin are I'I.Q‘r r.‘ “‘\~| 71?: F f\' U T' s ' F‘v-u- L'Aur- is too 3 ‘ D imiler to {He collebe So ucnor ll to or:T co: :clision if. .- 1- v. c. a; ;ut tue “‘pj-4‘V‘r 1‘ “* ." A""A"1 Pm LLgru, 1R ‘ U u: s that their ind gruferences L2w¢ailf ‘Y: h" by“ ‘ionary C rcjcrdcl ¢3 *hc criteria for lege. . C. 100 32:4;98 or even C Hill) FER . V I CCNCLQSIOWS The findings of this survey of buying practices of college sophomores caninot he considered typical of all college-age girls because the sampling avers too small. However, the data does seem to indicate many preferences stud trends which could he verified in comprehensive research studies With collqfi{ifls. Similarities and Dissimilarities with Other Studies Similarities between this study and other like studies are shown in true degree of parental influeice in shopping, in the method of paying for clxitfliing, in the plan followed in shoppin: with others when purchasing :1 €35zisti:15 wardrobes. Inasmuch 5 [W00 fit was a common reason indicated for dis- satisfaction with seldom worn items of Clothi g, a better understanding of prime ples of alterations might help the students select better fitting garments or garnents which COild be sntis- actorilv altered. Less impul- sive selection of colors when buyind would perhaps hel, the girls to more (effectively coordinate and utilize tmi ir clotbin . The ”Vortqncc of n care 0: and (l) ng w icn can be etsilv t2“ tl1at which is f bette gua-ity and Norknwan .'1ip ' ppeared to need emphasis. Relationsbii between satisfaction with garments purchase" ready- nmade and those made at home would have been well adapted to this survey. F‘uture research in this as.ect could 1e helpful in ylanning proiscts in .‘ 3 [J n clothinr construction cl s.-.,c.:. This study has 1ear: cone -ntrate d on the wardrobes of filty college ,i1‘ 5. fi Sl’ilF? stud' z clotr1q~ artisfactions of men, as well rs for J. -o. a: ,‘ :.. ~ p c\:-‘: -... . .-1 . Jr. ‘Vr‘ . wo Jen of different ates ntht reVeal unflit-0.u¢ ‘3 valuable 1n «3 €40 uri,+ :3 on Clothiny expenditurzs for the fa ily. BIBLIKIERAPHI A. Public Documents Brew, Margaret L. , O'Leary, Roxanne R., and Dean, Lucille, 0., {1:11:31 Clothin Inventories and Purchases, Household Economics Research Branch, U. S. Department of Agriculture (Wastington: U. S. Govern- ment Printing Office, April, 1956). Hockstim, Esther M. , Women's Attitudes To___w____ard W__o___ol and Other F__i_.____ber8, Marketing Research Division, 51.5. Department of fZgricEture (Washington: U. S. Government Printing Office, 1957). II. 8. Bureau of Census, 1950 Census of Population-~Number of Inhabitants (washington: United States Government Printing—Office, 19 1 . U. S. Department of Commerce, Current Populations Remrt_ of Consumer Income Washington: United States Government Printing— Office, August, U’. 5. Bureau of Employment Security, Distribution o__i_'_ 0 ccupational Titles, Vol. II, Occupational Classification and Indust Index (Washington: United States Government Printing fiftice, Ech, l9 9 . U. S. Bureau of Human Nutrition and Home Economics, U. S. Department of Agriculture, Fanny Cloth_1_._ng Inventories gm Income (Washington: United States Government Printing Office, June, 1950). B. Books Crawford, Mary 14., Student FolkwaE__ and m _a_t_ Indiana Universit , New York: Columbia University Press, 19 3 Laird, Donald A. , What Makes People Em, New York: leraV-Hill, 1935 . Ryan, Mary S., "Psychological Effect of Clothing, " Part IV, Perception _<_>__f £213 in Relation to Clothin, Bulletin 905, Cornell University Agricultural fieriment Station, Ithaca, 1951;, pp. 1-19. Silveman, Sylvia, Cloth_1_._%y and Appearance--_'I_h___eir Pszchological Ephcations__ for Teen-ace Girls, Yefiork: Bureau of Publications, aChers' Tllege, 19 ~(C. Articles and Periodicals Goldsmith, S. F. , "Income Distribution in the United States, 1950-5 ," Survey 9;: Current Business, XXXV (March, 1955), PP- 15-27- Myers, R. H., "Dress Purchases in Cincinnati in 1952-53," Miami Business Review, XXVI (October, 1951:), pp. l-h. Nelson, Lois , "Integrating Personal and Family Clothing Experiences, Journal 93: Home Economics, {LIX (January, 1957), pp. 29-30. Rosencranz, M. L., "Social Aspects of Clothing Studies ," Journal 2;: Home Economics, XLII (March, 1950), pp. 206,207. Ryan, Mary S., "A Study of Factors in the Selection and Care of Blouses Which Relate to Consumer Satisfaction," Journal 2; game Economics, XLVI (March 19514), pp. ISO—Sh. Schlaphoff, Doretta, and Burema, Jeanette, "Home Production by a Nebraska County," Journal 93 Home Economics, XLVII (June, 1955), pp. h03,h0h. hiveley, A. E. , and Roseberry, E. D. , "Ad uacy of College Wardrobes Judged," Journal 3i; Home Economics, XL February, 19118), p. 81. Slaughter, Margaret, "Home Sewing Centers ," Journal 3;: Home Economics, XLV (May, 1953), p. 326-28. , "Clothing and Textiles Move Forward," Journal 3;: Home Economicg, XLVIII (October, 1956), pp. 635-39. , "Teen Age Consumers,“ Consumer Re rt, XXII (March, 1957): pp. 13942. Unpublished Material Leask’ Grace J ., "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Practices of One Hundred Girls of West Division High School in I‘Iilwaukee." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, East Lansing. 1953. lee:FMarian s., "A Study of the Clothing Expenditures of Fifty Senior and Ui-f‘ty Sephomore Home Economics Students Attending the Stout Institute." npublished Nester's Thesis, Stout Institute, Menominee, 191:9. 161m; I‘Tary J ., "Inventories of Eighty-six Freshmen Girls' School Wardrobes U0 Determine Factors Relating to the Popularity of School Clothing." npublished Master's Thesis, Cornell University, Ithaca, 1952. 197 King, Bernice L., "A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relationships in Twenty-five Selected Families." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, East Lansing, 19,49. Rosner, Anne T., "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Practices of One Hundred Girls oi Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Illinois." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State University, East Lansing, 195h. Schurr, Mary S., "A Study of Wardrobes of the Fmshmen Women Attending the University of Maryland (1951-52) With an Investigation of Certain Factors Influencing the Acquisition of These Wardrobes." Unpublished Master's lIhesis, University of Maryland, College Park, 1953. E-farden, Jessie A. , "Some Factors Effecting the Satisfactions and Dis- satisfactions with Clothing of Women Students in the College of Education and the College of Liberal Arts.“ Unpublished Doctoral Dissertation, Pennsylvania State University, University Park, 1956. Windhorst, Mary M., "An Analysis of the Clothing Expenditures of :1 Selected Group of College Women." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Kansas State College of Agriculture and Applied Science, Manhattan, 19 3. Wood, Amanda L. , "Meeting the Clothing Needs of Students. in a Small College." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Ohio State University, Columbus, 19146. Wolfe, Helen, "A Study of the Spending Responsibilities of a Selected Group of Junior College Women with Particular Reference to Their Clothing Purchases." Unpublished Master's Thesis, Florida State University, 1951. APPEI‘JDJI QUESTIONNAIRE AND PERSONAL DJTERVIIM SCHEDUIE 110 PART I Code number— PERSONAL DATA In order to help me better understand the material which I will get from you at the time of our interview, I would like to know a little about Would you please fill in the blanks or check the numbers that your family. best fit. The material from this questionnaire will be reported anonymously. You need not write your name unless you wish. No 1. Are there other children in your family? . . . . . . . . Yes What are the age and sex of the children? Are they financially independent of the family? Age Sex Financially independent? i 2- Do other persons than your family live with you? . . . . Yes No No Are they related? ~ 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 0. 0 Yes If they are related, state relationship 3 . What is your father's occupation? (give the type of occupation, not necessarily where he is employed.) __ How many years has he been working in this position? How mam? years of schooling did your father complete? In which of these age groups does your father belong? 30-31: So-Sh 35-39 55-59 ho-hh 60-61; 1:5 449 65 or over___ 111 Is he a Seventh-day Adventist? . . . . . . . . . . . . . Yes No Does your mother work outside the home? . . . . . . . . Yes No What is the nature of her employment if she is employed? (not neces- sarily where she is employed.) Howxmmhdoesshework7..............FullTime PartTime How many years of schooling did your mother complete? __ In which of these age groups does your mother belong? 30-31; _______ 50-5h __ 35-39 __ 55-59 __ 110-bit __ 60-61: -hS-h9 65 or over__ Is your mother a Seventh—day Adventist? . . . . . . . . Yes No In which of these brackets would you say your family average yearly income falls? Under $2,000 82,000 to h,999 5,000 to 7,h99 7,500 to 9,999 over 10,000 9. 2. 3. he 5. 6. 112 PART II Code number QUESTIONNAIRE ON BUYING PRACTICES Name Age at last birthday Home town Approximate population Where did you attend secondary school? Didyouliveinthedorm? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Yes_____~ No From what secondary school did you graduate? In what year of College are you? Have you been employed in other than a school plant? . . . Yes __ No ________ If yes, what kind of employment? A. What was your approximate wage? per week “_ per month other B. What kind of a plan did you have for spending your earnings beyond tithe and miscellaneous chmh offerings? Saved for school Contributed to the family Purchased personal clothing Other (specify) No particular plan __ Are your family clothing expenditures planned? . . . . . . Yes No Do you have a plan for your own clothing expenditures? . . Yes No 10. In which type of store are purchases of the following items for yourself most often made? Check in the appropriate space. Dept. store Specialty' Chain Hail Exclusive Other Do not such as such as order such as such buy Rebertson's Lerners Penneys such as Bentons as ready- Sears Kresges Coats 0 Suits g, School dresses Other occasion dresses Play clothes Jackets Skirts Sweaters Blouses Rebes Pajamas Slips Formals 11. For the majority primary dependent desired price range wider selection in sizes desired quality of merchandise carried convenience of location .extended payment plan available thg above items, what is your choice of stores upon. wider selection.in styles brand carried style and fashionableness of merchandise charge account at the store other (please explain) 11b, 12. When buying major ready-to-wear such as coats do you usually ________, sometimes _____, never __ shop with someone? 13. For some less important item do you usually _, sometimes _, never shop with someone ? 1h. Indicate with whom you frequently shop for clothing : parents together mother alone father alone sister girl friend other (please indicate who) 15. If shopping with your parents, with whom would you say rests the final choice if there is a difference of Opinion? is your choice is your parents' choice is a compromise l6. Indicate your usual practice in regard to the number of places in which you shop before buying the garments listed below. more than one place more than one place one place one place Coats Skirts Suits Jackets School dresses Weaters Other occasion ' Robes dresses Underwear_ Play clothes Formals Blouses llS 17. ‘Which garments do you try on before purchasing? Always Occasionally' Seldom. Never Coats Suits School dresses Other occasion dresses Play clothes Blouses Skirts Jackets Sweaters Rebes Underwear Formals 18. Yes No a. If yes, to whom did they belong? mother sister Do you have in your wardrobe some clothes that are "hand-me-downs"? relation outside the immediate family well-to-do people outside the family other (specify) b. 19. If yes, do you usually , sometimes ease and/or enj y wearing them? Do gifts constitute a significan of garments in your wardrobe? , seldom. , feel at t , or a negligible number 20. From whom do you receive gifts of new clothing? frequently parents occasionally 116 sister brother grandparents aunt friends other (specify) 21. What types of garments do you receive as gifts? frequently coats occasionally play clothes sweaters school dresses other occasion dresses underwear other (specifyL 22. Do you usually , occasionally , never clothing items by brand names? frequently suits occasionally blouses skirts jackets hose apparel accessories purchase specific If usually or occasionally, what type clothes do you buy by brand names? _____c oats ____play clothes _______suits _____underwear “dresses _____hose blouses shoes skirts other (specify) 23. Zn. 117 Do you frequently , occasionally , seldom. find it necessary to return apparel purchased for credit or exchange? a. If yes, which items do you.most often find it necessary to return and.why? b. If yes, indicate reasons for which you have returned such.apparel. changed your mind uneven hems thought it'becoming but fabric imperfections family members disagreed _____wrong 8126 printed off grain poor fit seams pulled out .quality of stitch poor other (specify) Do you frequently , occasionally , never purchase items at sales? ' a. If you do, what items do you most frequently purchase at special sales? Check in the appropriate columns. End of month Seasonal Special Other clearance clearance promotions (specify) coats jackets, blazers school dresses special occasion dresses suits play clothes sweaters blouses skirts robes pajamas other (specify) 25. 26. 27. 28. ....) }- ('0 b. Generally speaking, have you found "sales purchases" completely satisfactory , moderately satisfactory * , or less satis- factory , than garments purchases at "regular" prices? c. ‘What are, to you, the most important reasons for buying clothes on sale? Indicate the reasons. What is your usual practice in paying for the following garments? Check in the appropriate column. Cash 30-day Ektended Layeaway charge account payment coats suits school dresses other occasion dresses skirts Jackets blouses sweaters underwear formals Do you.have a sewing machine in your home? Yes no a. If yes, is it electric? Yes No b. If yes, which type? Cabinet Portable c. Does it work satisfactorily? Yes No Does your mother sew? Yes No Do you sew? Yes No 119 29. Do you feel that your sewing equipment and facilities are adequate? somewhat adequate? inadequate? 30. Do you have several garments in your wardrobe that have been made for you or that you have made yourself? Yes No IF YOUR ANSWER TO #30 IS NO, YOU MAY STOP HERE. If yes, by whom were they made? Where did these persons learn to sew? coats blouses suits sweaters school dresses play clothes other occasion dresses formal jackets pajamas skirts other (specify) Where did these people learn to sew? Mather ‘ Self Other 31. Are there some garments that have been made for you that you wear infrequently? Yes No If yes, will you indicate why you wear them infrequently. tired of garment before it “style is unbecoming was completed fit poor dislike design of fabric has ”home made" look fabric unsuited to style of garment other (specify) 32. i\ 33 . 3h. 120 Who selects the material and/or pattern for your garments? Usually Sometimes Seldom Mother Self Some other member of faJniJL Other person than family_ A purchase with another person 8: self Other (specify) Are there any reasons why you prefer to have your clothing made for you? ‘ Yes_____No____ If yes, indicate why this is true. “individual styling ____better fit _____econonw ____have to alter ready-to-wear enjoy creativeness of sewing superior garment construction better quality of fabric other (specify)_ What items of clothing do you prefer to have made for you and why? Why? ' coats l suits school dresses J3me ___,other (Specify) 35. 121 What items of clothirg do you prefer not to have made for you? Why? Why? coats suits school dresses skirts other (specify) III?" 7'7. 1.1 m- mm a” -"_l 122 INTERVIEW SCHEDUIE Code Nunber Interview-$101553 1. Do you usually buy ready-made or make most of your blouses? Ready-Made Make at home 2. What do you consider a fair price to pay for the following blouses? Ready-made Made at home cotton school blouse cotton dressy blouse Dacron or Dacron and cotton blend ‘ nylon tric ot other (specify) 3. Select a school blouse that you like better than others or that you wear more than others. Describe this blouse. Style Fabric Color 1;. Why do you regard this as a most satisfactory blouse? like the style requires little ironing like the trimming does not require starch color goes with several skirts fabric is comfortable to wear color becoming well made fits well friends like it washes easily k3 L-J Code number 5. 7. If you were buying a new school.blouse, where in relative importance would you.rank the following characteristics? (Interviewee will be given 7 cards showing these characteristics and.will.be asked to arrange them in pockets ranked 1-7.) A. General appearance as style, color, workmanship, fabric B. Becomingness C. Suitability for specific needs-occasion; combines well with wardrobe D. Serviceability and/or durability characteristics as launderability, wrinkle resistance, wear, etc. E. Cost F. Comfort of fit and fabric G. Approval of friends Select a school blouse that you do not like or that you wear infrequently. Describe this blouse. Style Fabric Color For what reasons are you dissatisfied with it or why do you.not wear it? dislike style soils too easihy no variety of skirts to wear frays with it color unbecoming has to be starched fits poorly requires too mmch ironing and """ care pills needs mending dirt does not come out construction poor If you were buying a new school blouse, what kind would you get? Style Fabric Color 121; Code Number 1. Interflew-SKJRTS How many skirts do you have? Of what type are they? Are they ready- made or made at home? How much do you feel you should pay for different types you purchase remap-made or make at home? (Interviewer will check below. type number ready-made made at approx . price approx. price home each ready-made each home sewed straight fitted gathered pleated flarecL circular_ Select a skirt that you like better than others or that you wear more than others. Describe this skirt. Style _ Fabric Color Why do you regard 'it as a most satisfactory skirt? style is becoming ___physical properties of fabric make it comfortable to wear trimming is unusual (does not scratch, etc.) can be washed with little is basic color; many things difficulty and needs little go with it pressing fits well does not pick up lint needs little pressing construction is good does not sit out 125 Code number he 5. 7. If you were buying a new skirt for the same type of wear, what kind would you get? Style Fabric Color If you were buying a new skirt where in relative importance would you rank the following characteristics? (Interviewee will be given 7 cards showing these characteristics and will be asked to arrange them in pockets ranked 1-7.) A. General appearance as style, color, workmanship, fabric B. Becomingness of style and color C. Suitability for specific needs-“occasion; and combines well with wardrobe ‘ D. Servic eability and/or durability characteristics as launderability, wrinkle resistance, wear, etc. E. Comfort of fit and fabric F. Cost G. Approval of friends Select a skirt that you do not particularly like or that you wear infrequently. Describe this skirt. Style Fabric Color For what reasons are you dissatisfied with it or why do you not wear it? ____do not like style _____loses its shape +nothing to go with it _____has to be drycleaned ____discolored by fading _____has to be washed and ironed poor fit ____frays ________fabric scratches poor construction soils easily is a hand-me-down 126 Code Number 1. 2. 3. h. 5. Interview-«METER COAT How many winter coats do you have? Approximately what price do you consider you should pay for a winter school coat? Ready-made Made at home Do you by or make most of your coats? Buy Make Select the winter coat that you like better than others or that you wear more than others. Describe this coat. Style Fabric Color Why do you regard it as a most satisfactory coat? style good fabric does not wrinkle badly has zip-in lining it seems durable; does not show signs of wear quickly trilmdng interesting it holds its shape well color goes well with most construction generally good clothes fits well other people like it iswarm If you were buying a new winter coat for the same type of wear, what kind would you get? Style Fabric Color 127 Code Number 7. 9. If you were buying a new winter coat, where in relative importance would you rank the following characteristics? (Interviewee will be given 7 cards showing these characteristics and will be asked to arrange them in pockets ranked 1-7.) A. B. C. D. E. F. G. General appearance as style, color, workmanship, fabric Becomingness Suitability for specific needs-~occasion; combines well with wardrobe Serviceability and/or durability characteristics as launderability, wrinkle resistance, wear, etc. Cost Comfort of fit and fabric Approval of friends Select a coat that you do not particularly like or that you wear infrequently. Describe this coat. Style Fabric Color For what reasons are you dissatisfied with it or why do you not wear it? _____style not good ______shows wear quickly at pockets, ______is overtrimmed “gays looks dirty ___coat is too plain ______does not dry-clean well ______does not have a zip lining ________is not warm _______color does not go with material stretches and bags anything fits poorly construction is poor 128 Code Number 1. Interviewb-SPECIAL OCCASION DRESSES For what social activities do you want and need special occasion dresses? Do you usually buy or make such garments? Buy Make What do you consider a fair price for this type of dress? Ready- made Made at home Select a special occasion dress that you like better than others or that you wear more than others. Describe this dress. Style Fabric Color 'Why do you regard it as a most satisfactory dress? .____;has interesting lines _____Jdoes not soil easily ____H_trimming is interesting _____‘holds a press _____Jcolor becoming .____;well made _______fits well others like it If you were buying a new special occasion dress, where in relative importance would you rank the following characteristics? (Interviewee will.be given 7 cards showing these characteristics and will be asked to arrange them in pockets ranked 1-7.) A. General appearance as style, color, workmanship, fabric B. Becomingness C. Suitability for specific needs-~occasion3 combines well with wardrobe 129 Code Number 7. 9. D. Serviceability and/or durability characteristics as launderability, wrinkle resistance, wear, etc. E. Cost F. Comfort of fit and fabric G. Approval of friends Select a special occasion dress that you do not like or that you wear infrequently. Describe this dress. Style Fabric Color For what reasons are you dissatisfied with it or why do you not wear it? ______s tyle unbecoming ____per8piration stains color unbecoming _______fabric is scratchy _____a1ways looks dirty “requires frequent pressing “requires drycleaning ________constn1ction is poor fits poorly If you were buying a dew dress, what kind would you get? Style Fabric Color 130 Code Number 1. 2. 7. Interview--FORMAIS How many formals do you have? ___‘A For what occasions do you wear formals? Approximately what price do you consider you should pay for a formal? Ready— made Made at home How many have you purchased ready- made? Made at home? Select a formal that you like better than others or that you wear more than others. Describe this formal. Style Fabric Color Why do you regard it as a most satisfactory dress? style is interesting fit is good style is unusual easy to care for skirt contains many yards seems durable of material is ballerina length well made color is flattering If you were buying a new formal, where in relative importance would you rank the following characteristics? (Interviewee will be given 7 cards showing these characteristics and will be asked to arrange them in pockets ranked l-7.) A. General appearance as style, color, workmanship, fabric B. Becomingness *0“ T [ASL-o 131 Code Number C. D. E. F. G. Suitability for specific needs-~occasion3 combines well with wardrobe Serviceability'and/or durability characteristics as launderability, wrinkle resistance, wear, etc. Cost Comfort of fit and fabric Approval of friends 8. Select a formal that you do not like or that you wear infrequently. Describe this formal. Style Fabric Color 9. For what reasons are you dissatisfied with it or why do you not wear it? do not like the style material is sleazy too fussy perspiration stains the fabric neck is uncomfortably low too fragile color is unbecoming hard to press color looks faded by does not dryolean well candlelight fit is poor soils easily 10. If you were buying a new formal, what kind would you get? Style Fabric Color 380M USE UHL! may swig 653:” lw‘ 8) - C2 1‘ hmhbolhsq —C7v v 7 1960‘ ..~ Jb' I I r. 3- ' ‘I I infl!3fi 1 I Ui‘ ‘sIuO 1 .‘1. Nwwdtflfififiz' Demco-293 .‘ —__———-——-—-'-—’- '7. ITIEITJHEILISI "111ny Minn m IF 72542