V ‘5' 9 n a ' o o ¢ ¢ I . 1 \ ' ‘ a O .I .‘ - . . . . . "a‘fir‘l "A‘l'. C. .- ~1uc'4‘.v ‘. r .s24 . 0". I. - I 0 . o - ‘ .'o n I I | ., ‘ ‘ g . .' \, t ' _‘ a ‘ I O 9 . I ~ .'. o J . . - . h z...-.;..-?._. .-«w9&1NWW-fifikfiwohmfiamwqaqggm. , . . . .. FASHION ADOPTION AND SOCIAL PARTICIPATION AMONG ADOLESCENT GIRLS Thesis for’ the-Degree of M. A. MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY SARA LONG BUTLER - 19.72 - _ - ,. V v—V WW hw.,‘*‘ o ABSTRACT FASHION ADOPTION AND SOCIAL PARTICIPATION AMONG ADOLESCENT GIRLS BY Sara Long Butler The primary purpose of this study was to determine the relationship between early fashion adOption and social participation among adolescent girls. The relationships between pOpularity, leadership and early fashion adOption were also analyzed. A secondary objective was to develOp a fashion indicator against which to measure the subjects. The fashion measure was developed using Seventeen magazine as an indicator of adolescent fashion. Twelve issues covering a time period of three years were selected. Twenty pictures from each magazine were randomly selected. Eleven dress categories, composed of several descriptive subdivisions each, were compiled. A formula considering the time of appearance of a clothing item and the number of times it appeared in Seventeen was applied to each subdivision. Each subdivision within a dress category was assigned a numerical weighting using the formula. Sara Long Butler The sample consisted of 110 females studied during a 1968 interregional study conducted at Michigan State University. Social participation, popularity and leader- ship were among the variables analyzed.. Scores for these variables used in the present study are identical to those of the interregional project. At the time of data collection in 1968, colored movies were made of each student. Prints were made from the movies. Using the movies and prints, each subject's outfit was analyzed and categorized according to the prOper subdivision of the dress categories. The apprOpriate weightings for the subdivisions, determined according to the fashion formula, were assigned to each category for each subject. All category weightings were summed to yield a fashion score. Pearson product moment correlation coefficients and analysis of variance were used in the analysis of the data. The findings indicated that there was no significant relationship between early fashion adOption and social participation, leadership or popularity. FASHION ADOPTION AND SOCIAL PARTICIPATION AMONG ADOLESCENT GIRLS. BY Sara Long Butler A THESIS Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Human Environment and Design 1972 ACKN OWLEDGMENT S The writer would like to express her sincere appreciation to her advisor, Dr. Susan K. Kilborn for her encouragement and guidance throughout the investi- gation; to the members of her committee, Dr. Joanne B. Eicher, Mrs. Ann Slocum and Miss Lillian Greene for their helpful thoughts and suggestions; to Dr. Anna M. Creekmore for her assistance in the initial development of this study; and most of all to her husband, David, for his patience, encouragement and understanding throughout the course of this investigation. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ACKNOWLEDGMENT S o O O O O O I O O O O O 0 O O O O O O i i LIST OF TABLES O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O V LIST OF APPENDICES Q 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 0 Vi Chapter I 0 INT RODUCr ION O O 0 O O O O O O O O O O O I O 0 1 II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Adolescents and Their Clothing BehaVior O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 6 Adolescents and Fashion . . . . . . . . . 10 Social Participation in the High School and Clothing Behavior . . . . . . . 16 Early Fashion Adopters and Leader- ship in Formal Organizations . . . . . . . 21 III. STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM . . . . . . .’. . . . 27 Definitions of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Hypotheses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Assumptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 IV. PROCEDURE 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 33 Selection and Deve10pment of Measuring Instruments . . . . . . . . . . 34 Selection of Social Participation, P0pularity and Leadership Instruments. . 34 Development of Fashion Instrument . . . . 35 Analysis of Student Dress . . . . . . . . . 41 Selection of the Sample . . . . . . . . . . 42 Analysis of the Data . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 iii Chapter V. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION . . . . . . . . Description of the Sample . . . . . Social Participation . . . . . . . . POpularity and Leadership . . . . . Early Fashion AdOption . . . . . . . Early Fashion Adoption and Social Participation, POpularity and Leadership . . . . . . . . . . . . Discussion . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conclusions . . . . . . . . . . . . VI 0 S UId-MARY O I O O O O O O O O O 0 O O O VII. RECOMMENDATIONS AND IMPLICATIONS . . . Recommendations for Refinement of the Early Fashion Adoption Measure Implications for Further Research . BIBLIOGRAPHY O O O O O O O I O O O O O O O O O APPENDICES O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O I 0 iv Page 44 44 45 48 49 53 54 61 62 66 66 72 77 LIST OF TABLES Dress Categories and Subdivisions . Prestige Rating of Student Organizations The Number of Organizations to Which the Girls Belonged . . . . . . Pearson Product Moment Correlation Coefficients for Social Participation, POpularity and Leadership Scores Weightings for the Subdivisions . Ranges, Means and Standard Deviations of Dress Categories . . . . Correlation Coefficients of each Dress Category with the Total Fashion Score Correlation Coefficients of each Dress Category with Social Participation, POpularity and Leadership . Page 39 46 47 49 50 52 57 58 LIST OF APPENDICES Appendix Page A. Questionnaire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 B. Frequencies of Items in Subdivisions of Dress Categories for all Issues and Determination of Final Weight for each Subdivision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 vi CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION The study of leadership in high school has impli- cations for a number of areas. Student leaders often have an effect on the thoughts and actions of their classmates. Cole and Hall1 emphasize the importance of the study of leadership by stating that although the numbers of leaders are few, their influence is large. The leadership abilities of the student may also extend into a number of related areas. Brown2 found that leaders tended to exercise their capabilities in both formal and informal situations. Their influence is thereby more widesPread. Some evidence has also demonstrated a relationship between high school extra- curricular participation and adult leadership.3 A leader may have greater influence than his peers throughout his lifetime. lLuella Cole and Irma Nelson Hall, Ps cholo of Adolescence (New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1970), p. 373. 2Douglass Brown, "Factors Affecting Social Acceptance of High School Students," The School Review, (March, 1954), p. 153. 3John D. Krumboltz, "The Relationship of Extra- curricular Participation to Leadership Criteria," Person- nel and Guidance Journal, (January, 1957), pp. 307-3I3. 1 The role of leaders in the process of change is also important. Kuhlen,4 in a study of college leaders, found that, "...the attitudes of the leaders tended to be more liberal than those of nonleaders; they tended to be less satisfied with the status quo." Rogers5 also describes the diffusion of innovations in terms of leader- ship qualities. It is possible that leadership qualities may extend into the area of fashion change. The leadership influence on dress is particularly important to the clothes-conscious adolescent. Clothing, being an esPecially visible means of communication, can be used to state the relationship between the adolescent and his peers. A large portion of studies concerning adolescent dress have dealt with conformity. However, clothing leadership, in terms of fashion, is also important. A number of studies have found some relationship between fashion leadership and leadership in extracurricular activities.6 The high school leader may serve as a model to his peers, both in behavior and in dress. 4Raymond Kuhlen, The Psychology of.Adolescent Development. (New York: Harper and Brothers, 1952), p. 331. 5Everett Rogers, Diffusion of Innovations (New York: The Free Press, 19627, pp. 169-171. 6Albert S. Glickman, "Clothing Leadership Among Boys," (unpublished PhD. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1952), p. 248. Eileen Marshall, "Leadership in Men's Fashions Associated with Selected Social Characteristics for a Group This study was undertaken to investigate the rela- tionship between fashion leadership and leadership in the high school. In a 1968 interregional study of adolescent clothing and social acceptance,7 Michigan State University obtained data from 241 sophomores at a central Michigan high school. Informal and formal peer acceptance and clothing conformity, awareness and prestige were the vari- ables studied. The subjects were given questionnaires con- cerning biographical data, their participation in formal school organizations, friendship choices and clothing aware- ness and prestige. In addition, colored movies were taken of each student and conformity scores were calculated. Colored prints were also made as an additional source of information. When evaluating the clothing prékige data, it was found that those clothing items selected by the students as of Fraternity Men: (unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1964), pp. 46-47. Sharon Wilson, 'The Relationship of Fashion Leader- ship to Social Participation and Social Acceptance Among Adolescents" (unpublished Master's thesis, University of Minnesota, 1970), pp. 25, 28, 32. 7Interregional project W-98, "The Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Acceptability of Adolescents," interregional research conducted in 1968 at Colorado State University, University of Hawaii, University of Nevada, Michigan State University, University of Minne- sota, University of Missouri, Utah State University, Washing- ton State University and University of Wisconsin. Michigan State University study was under the direction of Anna M. Creekmore, Agriculture Experiment Station Project 1020. being prestigious often coincided with the items selected as the norm.8 In addition, all three clothing variables, including awareness, conformity and prestige, were related in some way to the informal measures of peer acceptance. Only awareness, however, was found to be related to the formal measure of peer acceptance.9 It is possible that those students who were leaders in the formal organizations of the school wore clothing that was not measured by any of the clothing variables used. Their clothing may have been ahead of the norm and in keeping with current fashion. In an attempt to determine if the leaders in the formal organizations of the school were, in fact, fashion leaders, the investigator of the present study develOped a fashion measure against which the subjects could be measured. Due to the lack of printed material concerning male adoles- cent fashions, a fashion measure of males was considered too difficult for the sc0pe of this investigation and only females were studied. The first objective, then, was to determine a fashion mode for 1968 against which each female could be rated. Seventeen magazine was selected as an indicator of adolescent fashion. 8Francine Johanna VanStaden, "The Relationship of Prestigious Clothing to Acceptance by the Peer Group of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1970), pp. 42-43. 9Betty Voran Smucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1968), p. 48. The second objective was to determine the relation- ship between leaders in high school formal organizations and their behavior in terms of clothing. According to the inter- regional study, these students were aware of types of clothing, but did not conform. The goal of this study was to find out if these organizational leaders were fashion leaders according to the fashion measure developed. Since many of the leadership positions were elective, or involved some type of competition, it was felt that p0pularity may have also had an influence on leadership. The third objective, therefore, was to determine if those students having high popularity scores also exhibited fashion leadership. Leadership as viewed by peers is also an important aspect of formal organizational leadership. The final objective was to determine whether those students, selected by their peers as exhibiting leadership qualities, were also fashion leaders. This study was conducted primarily for the purpose of determining where the formal organization leader of the particular sample fit in the relationships of clothing vari- ables. It was felt that this additional investigation was an essential part of the Michigan State University portion of the interregional study. CHAPTER II REVIEW OF LITERATURE The following section provides the theoretical framework upon which this study was based. The literature and readings pertinent to this study are organized as follows: (1) Adolescents and Their Clothing Behavior, (2) Adolescents and Fashion, (3) Social Participation in the High School and Clothing Behavior, and (4) Early Fashion Adopters and Leadership in Formal Organizations. Adolescents and Their Clothing Behavior As one of the closest, most personal elements of the environment, clothing is of great importance to the individual. It can be used to communicate impressions of the self to others. For the adolescent, who is in the process of develOping a self-image, clothing can be es- pecially important. Wax1 states that the adolescent girl uses new styles to try on various roles or personalities 1Murray Wax, "Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming," Dress, Adornment and the Social Order, Mary Ellen Roach and Joanne Eicher, eds. (New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965), p. 42. in an attempt to establish a self with which she can be comfortable. The nature of clothing allows the adolescent to switch roles frequently in an effort to find his own. identity. Roach2 felt that the teenager deliberately tests the effectiveness of different images by observing the positive or negative responses elicited. In this way, the adolescent uses clothing to emphasize himself and the person he is or aSpires to be. Clothing can be a tool to mani- pulate impressions. Clothing can, however, be a problem to the adoles- cent. Croake,3 in a study of 181 teenagers in South Dakota and Nebraska, attempted to determine the number and types of fears of adolescents. Personal appearance, including clothes, weight, make-up and hair style, ranked sixth in a list of ten fears. Able and Gingles,4 studying problems of adolescent girls, found that "wanting to improve my appear- ance" was the third most frequently checked item. The adolescent who feels that his clothing is not correct in reference to he peers often suffers feelings of unhappiness 2Mary Ellen Roach, "Adolescent Dress: Understanding the Issues," Education Digest, vo1. 35, (February, 1970), p. 39. 3James W. Croake, "Adolescent Fears," Adolescence, Vol. 2, (1967), p. 459. 4Harold Abel and Ruby Gingles, "Identifying Prob- lems of Adolescent Girls," The Journal of Educational Research, Vol. 58, (May-June, 1965), p. 391. or insecurity. As Hurlock5 states, "The adolescent is... embarrassed by clothes that are inferior to those of other members of the group because he knows that clothes are an important status symbol." In addition to the task of finding the right iden- tity, the adolescent is also faced with an ambiguity of roles. He is in a marginal position, being neither child nor adult. At this point, the peer group becomes all important. The adolescent turns to others in the same situ- ation for support. Because his peers are so important, their positive reactions are actively sought. Clothing is one way of encouraging the positive feelings of the peer group. The adolescent becomes particularly aware of his clothing and how his peers react to it. Masumoto6 found throughout her study of adolescent dress that the adolescent tended to be more aWare of his own dress and of its effect upon others, than he was of other's dress. The teenager is especially careful to be similar to schoolmates in dress. Smucker7, in another 5Elizabeth Hurlock, Developmental Psycholo , (New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1959), p. 404. ' 6SachikoMasumoto, "The Relationship of Dress and Behavior Associated with Dress to the Social Participation of the Adolescent Boy and Girl," (unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1958), p. 131. 7Betty Voran Smucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1969), p. 58. portion of the interregional study, found clothing con- formity to be significantly related to peer acceptance in the informal school structure. Takahashi and Newton8 studied high school girls' clothing behavior and also found a strong tendency toward some degree of clothing conformity. Clothing is one aspect of the personal environment that is highly visible. Because it can be used both to experiment and to display an identification with the peer group, it receives much attention from the adolescent. Its importance has been emphasized by Hurlock9 who stated that, "High school girls regard clothes as necessary to happiness." 10 Coleman also spoke to clothing importance when he said, "...in adolescent cultures these superficial, external attributes of clothes and good looks do pervade the atmos- phere to the extent that girls come to feel that this is the only basis, or most important basis, on which to excel." Parents, teachers and manufacturers of teenage clothes are also aware of the importance of clothing to adolescents. It appears that clothing serves a number of functions for the adolescent. It allows an opportunity to experiment 8Charlene Takahashi and Audrey Newton, "Perceptions of Clothing Conformity," Journal of Home Economics, V01. 59, No. 9 (November, 1967), p. 722. 9Hurlock, Developmental Psychology, p. 231. 10James Coleman, The Adolescent Society, (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1961), p. 52. 10 with identities and it enables one to become visibly more like his peers. Because of its general importance, it can also become a source of problems to the adolescent. Adolescents and Fashion Fashion is also an aspect of clothing important to 11 adolescents. Jarnow and Judelle cite one definition of fashion as, "...the prevailing mode or accepted style or group of styles in dress or personal decoration established or adOpted during a particular time or season." The theories concerning the fashion process are many, from Simmel,12 who was one of the first to expound the "trickle- 13 down" theory, to more recent sociologists who attempted to define fashion in terms other than social class alone. 14 Rogers' theory on the diffusion of innovations has also been applied to the fashion adoptionprocess.15 11Jeannette Jarnow and Beatrice Judelle, Inside the Fashion Business, (New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965), p. 2. 12Georg Simmel, "Fashion," reprinted from the Inter- national Quarterly, X, (October, 1904), pp. 130-155. l3Herbert Blumer, "From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection," Sociological Quarterly, X, (Summer, 1969). PP. 275-291. Charles W. King, "Fashion Ad0ption: A Rebuttal to the Trickle-Down Theory," Proceedings of the Winter Confer- ence of the American Marketing Association. Boston, Mass., Dec. 27-28, 1963, pp. 108-125. 14Everett M. Rogers, Diffusion of Innovations, (New York: The Free Press, 1962). 15Carol Ann Myers, "Fashion Opinion Leadership and Fashion adoption in Relation to Social Participation and 11 His adopter categories of innovators, early adopters, early majority, late majority and laggards are compatible with the movement of fashion through society. Schrank,16 in a study of fashion adOption, utilized Roger's adOpter cate- gories to study the relationship between innovativeness and opinion leadership, and insecurity, attitudes toward dress conformity, clothing interest and socioeconomic level. Since the present study was concerned with fashion in adolescence, the literature reviewed emphasized this particular area. It was felt that theories concerning flow through social classes applied more to the broad Spectrum of society. The high school is a social system within it- self and the range of variability is more limited. In addition, the period of adolescence, with its emphasis on the importance of the peer group, has a limiting effect upon the fashion process. Innovators, defined by Rogers17 as having cosmOpolite social relationships, are not readily found in a rural high school. It was also felt that teen- agers have neither the money nor the sophistication to follow designer high fashion. Favorableness Toward New Styles in University Women's Cloth- ing" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State Univer- sity, 1971). 16Holly Lois Schrank, "Fashion Innovativeness and Fashion Opinion Leadership as Related to Social Insecurity, Attitudes Toward Conformity, Clothing Interest and Socio~ economic Level," (unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1970). 7Rogers, Diffusion of Innovations, p. 169. 12 There is some evidence that fashion, in the sense of trend-setting, is important to the adolescent girl. Jersild18 stated that, "In their dress and grooming, ado- lescent girls are usually quite style conscious and try to conform to the fashions of the day." Silverman,19 however, found that the adolescent girls she studied tended to be "...inconsistent rather than slavish in its attempt to keep in step with incoming or waning fads." Another indicator of the importance of having up-to-date clothing is found in the expenditures in the marketplace of the teenage girl. Bernard20 spoke of the boom to the fashion industry when the teenage market was discovered. Bernard also emphasized the importance to the teen- age girl of having "the right" fashion items: If she is considered a good dresser she wears labels. Her dresses are Lanz or Jonathan Logan. She wears shoes by Capezio for people who dare to be different. Her skirts are Pendleton and the right length and the sweaters to match are Garland. Her coat is a Lassie and no good dresser uses any make-up but the current fad, which usually alter- nates between Revlon and Coty.21 18Arthur Jersild, The Psychology of Adolescence, (New York: The MacMillan Company, 1963), p. 68. 19Sylvia Silverman, "Clothing and Appearance," The Adolescent: A Bgok of Readings, Theodore M. Newcomb, ed. (New York: The Dryden Press, 1953), p. 244. 20Jessie Bernard, "Teen—Age Culture: An Overview," The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social SEience, Vol. 338, (November, 1961), p. 3. 211bid., p. 3. 13 A further indicator of the importance of fashion to the adolescent female is the degree to which fashion 22 in answer to those who magazines are read. Ellis Folke, felt that television and films were taking teenagers from the print media, quoted figures from studies showing that 86% of tenth grade girls and 92% of twelfth grade girls read magazines during the school year. Seventeen was found to be the most read magazine of teenage girls in the 12-17 year old bracket. Moore23 found that reading fashion maga— zines had some relationship to fashion leadership. A sig- nificant relationship was found between those subjects wearing appealing clothes and the retention of fashion knowledge from reading fashion magazines. In addition, a trend toward a relationship was found to exist between those girls wearing new fashions and the retention of fashion knowledge obtained from reading fashion magazines. Wilson,24 in her study of fashion leadership among adolescent girls, found that store displays and magazines were used quite frequently as sources of fashion information 22Ellis Folke, "Teenagers...And Print Media," Media/sc0pe, XI, (December, 1967), pp. 118-119. 23Kathleen Moore, "Fashion Leadership Designation and Related Factors Among a Group of Adolescent Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, University of Nebraska, 1967), p. 68. 24SharonWilson, "The Relationship of Fashion Leader- ship to Social Participation and Social Acceptance Among Adolescents" (unpublished Master's thesis, University of Minnesota, 1970), pp. 25, 28 and 32. 14 and that there was a tendency for early adopters to use mass media sources more than late adOpters. On the whole, the girls chose magazines as their most important source of information. Bullock,25 in comparing rural and urban adolescents, found that 45% of the sample named fashion magazines, newspaper articles or advertisements as having the most influence on decisions made when adding clothing to the wardrobe. Forty-nine percent of the sample read Seventeen magazine and the reading of Seventeen was found to be related to fashion awareness. A study completed by Lydia Lou Roper26 concerning clothing practices and the newspaper and magazine reading habits of adolescent girls revealed several findings per— tinent to this study. Of the 78 girls who responded to a questionnaire, 77 read magazines. "More of them, three out of five, read Seventeen magazine more than any other single magazine."27 Articles about fashion were most often read, with short stories, dating problem articles and advertisements following in order. Four of five girls 25Marilyn Josey Bullock, "Fashion Awareness of Students in Selected Rural and Urban Areas" (unpublished Master's thesis, Texas Technological University, 1970), pp. 20, 26 and 27. 26Lydia Lou ROper, "Clothing Practices Correlated with Newspaper and Magazine Reading Habits of High School Girls in Stillwater, Oklahoma" (unpublished Master's thesis, Oklahoma State University, 1968), p. 13. 27Ibid., p. 20. 15 agreed that: (1) they read fashion articles, (2) they got ideas on what kind of clothes to wear from magazines, (3) they felt it was important to dress in fashion, and (4) they thought others would like them better if they were well-dressed. Roper concluded that "...the girls sought the most fashion advice from magazines." It appears that fashion magazines, Seventeen in particular, are important to teenage girls as evidenced by the degree to which they are read. Several adolescent or fashion authorities also recognize the importance of Seven- 28 teen to the adolescent. Barber and Loebel, in their study on fashion in women's clothes, referred to Seventeen magazine as the representative of simple, unsophisticated . teenage fashion. Strang29 stated that an interest in 30 clothing is stimulated by Seventeen. Bernard described the cheerleader as "...a clean-cut, all-American girl... she is not made up nor does she wear her hair in anything but a simple, classic, school-girl hairdo....She is a breathing replica of a Seventeen model." It seems that fashion is important to the adoles- cent. Researchers have demonstrated the attention paid 28Bernard Barber and Lyle S. Loebel, "Fashion in Women's Clothes and the American Social System," Social Forces, Vbl. 31, (December, 1952), p. 130. . 29Ruth Strang, The Adolescent Views Himself, (New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1957), p. 2352 30 Bernard, "Teen-Age Culture...', p. 9. 16 to fashion by adolescents. Fashion magazines, particularly Seventeen, seem to be read a great deal, also demonstrating an interest on the part of the adolescent girl in fashion. Social Participation in_the High School and Clothing Behavior For the purposes of this study, the amount of par- ticipation in formal school organizations constituted the social participation variable. Leaders in formal social participation were those who participated to the greatest extent. The review of literature reflects the emphasis in this study on leadership in the formal school structure. Cole and Hall31 spoke of leadership as being a cluster of traits; a few inborn, but most acquired or developed by contact with the environment. Their list of the traits of adolescent leaders included:(l)tcapacities-- average or better intelligence, mentally alert, verbal facility, good health, courage, cheerfulness, humor, maturity; (2) attainments--grades, athletics, leadership; (3) appearance and manner--average or better attractiveness, appropriately clothed (as judged by the standards of the group to be led), good voice, features, body build and poise: (4) motility; (5) contacts with others; (6) special intellectual qualities;and (7) background factors. 31Luella Cole and Irma Nelson Hall, Ps cholo of Adolescence, (New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1970Y’ pp. 3737-374. 17 C. Wayne Gordon,32 in his study concerning the social system of the high school, found that student organizations were a means for a student to achieve some measure of success. The degree of success was influenced by the status within the group, which in turn depended on the student's rank within the specific group and the prestige standing of the group in relation to other groups. The prestige of the organization depended primarily on the degree of visibility of the organization and the perfor— mance of valued functions. For example, organizations rated high had high visibility, with membership achieved through competition which placed a premium on special capacities. The individual who possessed Cole and Hall's traits of leadership would be the person who could compete for and win a place of status in Gordon's prestigious organizations because he would possess capabilities required for member- ship. The theory that leadership is a quality inherent in many asPects of the individual's life has been debated by 33 several researchers. Douglass Brown, in a study on the social acceptance of high school students, compared partici— pation in school organizations with overall acceptance as 32C. Wayne Gordon, The Social System of the Hi h School, (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1957), p. . 33Douglass Brown, "Factors Affecting Social Accep- tance of High School Students," The School Review, (March, 1954), p. 153. 18 determined by a sociometric technique. Brown found that the greater the number of organizations to which students belonged, the greater the likelihood of their being in the high acceptance group. The results of this study seem to show that participation in formal organizations and informal 34 on the acceptance are compatible. Smith and Nystrom, other hand, found little carry over in leadership traits of high school students. Their findings indicated that "...each leader was either a nonleader or a follower a great deal of the time and that leadership shifted con- siderably among the leaders from one activity to the next." 35 stated that the high In a similar finding, Strickland school girls in her study who possessed high leadership and social relation skills tended to participate in fewer clubs and held less important offices. There does seem to be a degree of consensus, however, concerning the importance of appearance to leadership. Researchers studying leadership in particular, often mention the importance of clothing. Cole and Hall36 34Mapheus Smith and W. C. Nystrom, "A Study of Social Participation and of Leisure Time of Leaders and Nonleaders," Journal of Applied PsyChology, Vol. 21, p. 255. 35Earline Strickland, "Relationship of Clothing and Personal Appearance and School Participation of Girls in a Mississippi High School" (unpublished Master's thesis, Iowa State University, 1969), pp. 62-63. 36 Cole and Hall, Psychology of Adolescence, p. 374. 19 included appearance and manner in their list of leadership traits. In a study of interests and leadership among 37 adolescents, Marks found that female leaders were signi- ficantly higher than followers in attractiveness, popularity, prominence, athletic leadership and style setting. Flemming,38 when studying the personality of high school leaders, found attractiveness in personal appearance to be a factor some- 39 in detailing what related to leadership. C. Wayne Gordon, the highest position of leadership available to a girl, described the Queen of the Yearbook. The Queen had to be "...careful in tasteful grooming and appearance, not cheap in make-up; well, but not extremely dressed according to the approved pattern; and not showy nor a style setter in dress." Clothing studies have also shown some relationship between clothing and leadership. Hamilton and Warden40 observed high school students' clothing behavior and r' ) QZJohn Marks, "Interest and Leadership Among Adolescents," Journal of Genetic Psychology, Vol. 91, (1957), p. 168. 38E. G. Flemming, "A Factor Analysis of the Person- ality of High School Leaders," Journal of Applied Psyghol- ggy, Vol. 19, (1935), p. 601. 39 C. Wayne Gordon, The Social System, p. 68. 40Janice Hamilton and Jessie Warden, "The Student's Role in a High School Community and His Clothing Behavior," Journal of Home Economics, Vol. 58, No. 10, (December, 1966), p. 790. 20 classified it as acceptable or nonacceptable. They found that students with acceptable clothing behavior partici- pated in more extracurricular activities and held more offices than did students with nonacceptable clothing behavior. With respect to clothing awareness, Vener and Hoffer41 found that "...girls who participate more in organizational acitivity, i.e., belong to more organizations and hold official position in these organizations, tend to demonstrate greater clothing awareness." Speaking of over- all appearance, Hurlock42 stated that "...the clothes- conscious young adolescent expects his leader to make a good appearance. He must be nice—looking, well-groomed, and 43 also found wear stylish, becoming clothes." Silverman that "...good appearing girls tended to participate to a greater degree in school activities, such as clubs, sports and dramatic presentation and to be sought as leaders more frequently than poor appearing girls." Masumoto44 determined the degree of social partici- pation in her sample by questions regarding membership in in formal voluntary organizations, clique membership and 41Arthur M. Vener and Charles R. Hoffer, "Adoles- cent Orientations to Clothing," Dress, Adornment and the Social Order, Mary Ellen Roach and Joanne Eicher, eds. (New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965), p. 79. 42Hurlock, Deve10pmental Psychology, p. 417. 43 Silverman, "Clothing and Appearance," p. 246. 44Masumoto, "The Relationship of Dress," p. 127. 21 dating frequency. She found that the high school girls she studied in the high social participation group showed greater interest in clothing and placed greater importance on clothing. In addition, those persons named more than a few times as pOpular, tended to be named as attractively 45 found that both low and high accep- dressed. Strickland tance individuals would avoid participation in organizations because they felt improperly dressed. The characteristics of a high school leader and the social system they participate in have been reviewed. The Opinions concerning the carry over of leadership traits from one area to another differ, but most researchers seem to agree that some aspects of clothing behavior are related to leadership. Early_Fashion Ad0pters and Leadership in Formal Organizations There have been a number of researchers who have attempted to study leadership in the formal organizations of the high school and clothing leadership. The studies mentioned previously concerning leadership and clothing covered several areas of clothing behavior. Those studies concerned with fashion leadership in particular are the most pertinent to this study. 45Strickland, "Relationship of Clothing," p. 59. 22 Leadership in many organizations often requires competition with one's peers in the form of election to offices. It seems that popularity with the other members of the organization may play a partin the selection pro- cess along with leadership capabilities. Several studies have dealt with p0pularity and clothing leadership. Moore,46 in her study of fashion leadership, felt that two kinds of clothing leaders may exist: those who wear the newest fashions and those who wear appealing clothes, regardless of the current fashion. In comparing these two types of leaders with the degree of pOpularity, she found that "...those girls who were leaders in either new fashion or dress appeal or both were also in general the girls who were the most pOpular with the girls in the rest of the class." Similarly, Williams and Eicher,47 studying ninth grade girls found that clothing was considered the attribute first in importance in describing the character- 48 found that istics of the most p0pular girl. Strickland both the p0pular girls and the other girls felt that the clothing of the popular girls was different. The popular girls clothing was "...more attractive, fit better, more in 46Moore, "Fashion Leadership Designation," pp. 2, 62. 47Madelyn C. Williams and Joanne B. Eicher, "Teen- agers'Appearance and Social Acceptance," Journal of Home Economics, Vbl. 58, No. 6, (June, 1966), p. 459. 48Strickland, "Relationship of Clothing," pp. 38, 42. 23 style and always properly matched." In addition, most of the 94 girls studied by Strickland agreed that the most pOpular girl introduced new fashions to the group by being the first person to wear them. In another portion of the interregional study, Van Staden49 studied the relationships between prestigious clothing and pOpularity and leadership. The subjects selected which clothing items they considered to be pres- tigious. POpularity and leadership scores were identical to those of the present study. Van Staden found positive relationships between wearing prestigious clothing and leadership for both boys and girls and between wearing prestigious clothing and p0pularity for girls. Goodellso spoke to both social participation and pOpularity when she concluded that fashion leaders have more social participation, are more pOpular and belong to more organizations and are more likely to be leaders in other types of activities. Goodell's study dealt with a comparison of two means of distinguishing fashion leaders. In a study of university women's clothing, Myers51 49Francine Johanna Van Staden, "The Relationship of Prestigious Clothing to Acceptance by the Peer Group of Adolescent Boys and Girls," (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1970), pp. 59-60. 50Anne Goodell, "Comparison of Two Techniques for the Identification of Fashion Leaders," (unpublished Master's thesis, Ohio State University, 1967), p. 15. 51Myers, "Fashion Opinion Leadership," p. 105. 24 found no significant relationship between fashion adoption and social participation, although the correlation was in a positive direction. Fashion adoption categorization was determined by the subject's own view of her innovativeness. 52 On the other hand, Glickman found that those who were seen as clothing leaders tended to be leaders in cooperative 53 found that fashion innovators group activities. Marshall were higher participants in campus organizations and held more offices in those organizations. 54 in a study of fashion leadership' Sharon Wilson, and social participation, defined the fashion leader as an individual who is an early adOpter of new styles. Social participation was measured by a modified Chapin scale. The subjects put themselves into the adopter categories., Wilson found that early adOpters do show a tendency toward greater social participation than late adOpters. The early adOpter was more involved in service and culturally oriented activities that were small and specialized than were late adopters. 52Albert S. Glickman, "Clothing Leadership Among Boys" (unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1952), p. 248. 53Eileen Marshall, "Leadership in Men's Fashions Associated with Selected Social Characteristics for a Group of Fraternity Men" (unpublished Master's thesis, Penn- sylvania State University, 1964), pp. 46-47. 54 Wilson, "The Relationship of Fashion, pp. 35, 85. 25 The conflicting results of these studies may be explained in terms of the sample. Myers studies university women, while Marshall's subjects were fraternity men. Glickman's sample was also male. Masumoto, studying both female and male high school students, did find that males 55 It is and females differed in their clothing behavior. possible that the discrepancies stem from differences in fraternity men, who may be more fashion conscious, and university women, who may be less concerned with fashion ad0ption. The time discrepancy may also be an influencing factor. Glickman wrote in 1952, Marshall in 1964 and Myers in 1971. Fashion may have had a different meaning in 1971 than it did in 1952. Overall, research findings point to some positive relationship between fashion leadership and social participation. In addition, Van Staden's study using part of the same sample used in this investigation contained several pertinent results. There was a relationship between both popularity and leadership and prestigious clothing for girls. Although prestigious clothing often coincided with the mode for this sample, there may have also been some element of fashion present in the selection of prestigious items. 5Masumoto, "The Relationship of Dress," Introduction. 26 The Wilson study is especially important since it closely parallels this investigation. Wilson studied high school females in May of 1968. Their social participation was measured similarly and fashion leadership was defined in terms of early adOption. Wilson's findings of a ten- dency for early adopters to have a greater degree of social participation is particularly relevant to this investigation. CHAPTER III STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM This investigation was conducted primarily to determine if leaders in formal high school organizations were also early adOpters of fashion as determined by Seventeen magazine. The findings will serve to supplement data collected for the interregional study1 in 1968. The develoPment of a fashion standard against which to measure the subjects was a secondary purpose of this study. Definitions of Terms Fashion is defined as the prevailing mode or style in dress established or adopted during a particular time 2 or season. lInterregional Project W-98, "The Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Acceptability of Adoles- cents," interregional research conducted in 1968 at Colorado State University, University of Hawaii, University of Nevada, Michigan State University, University of Minnesota, Univer- sity of Missouri, Utah State University, Washington State University and University of Wisconsin. Michigan State University study was under the direction of Anna M. Creek- more, Agriculture Experiment Station Project 1020. 2Jeanneatte Jarnow and Beatrice Judelle, Inside the Fashion Business, (New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965), p. 2. 27 28 Early AdoEter is a particular classification of individuals within a social system on the basis of innova- tiveness. The categories include innovators, early adopters, early majority, late majority, and laggards in order of their innovativeness. Early adopters are integrated fairly well into the social system, in this case, the high school. They are ahead of the majority in adOption of innovations, but not far ahead. The early ad0pter serves as a model for other members of the social system. He is reSpected by his peers and is the embodiment of the successful use of new ideas.3 In this investigation, the early ad0pter of adoles- cent fashion is the individual whose scores are higher on the fashion measure. He is considered a fashion leader. Fashion Measure is the instrument used to determine which subjects were early ad0pters of adolescent fashion. For the purposes of this study, Seventeen magazine was considered an indicator of such fashion. 2£2§§.CateS°£X is used to designate various dress classifications. The eleven dress categories used were skirt length, leg covering, style, silhouette, fabric design, dominant color, accessories, collars, sleeves, color harmony and color value. 3Everett Rogers, Diffusion of Innovations, (New York: The Free Press, 1962), pp. 169-170. 29 Subdivisions of dress categories are the specific classifications within each of the dress categories. Skirt length, for example, contained the following subdivisions: 6" above the knee, 4" above the knee, 1-2" above the knee, at the knee cap, just below the knee, 2" below the knee. Final Weightings are the numbers assigned to each subdivision of a dress category according to the date that subdivision appeared in Seventeen magazine and the number of times the subdivision appeared. Category Weightingg are the scores received by each student in each category. Each subject's apparel was ana- lyzed and classified according to the appropriate subdivision. The final weightings for that subdivision were assigned to the subject for each dress category. Early Fashion Adopter Score is the final score for each subject obtained by summing all the category weightings. The early adopter score measured the degree of adOption in reference to Seventeen magazine. Those students who wore clothing appearing most recently in Seventeen had the higher scores and were the early ad0pters or "leaders" in fashion. Social Participation is the participation of the student in high school formal organizations, including 30 the professional, athletic and academic areas.4 Social Participation Score reflects the degree of social participation. The organizationsin the school were rated on a prestige criterion by all students prior to the date of data collection. Scores consisted of total cumula- tive point values for participation in each organization multiplied by the prestige rank of each organization. Those students having higher scores were considered to be leaders in formal organizations. Higher scores could be obtained either by holding offices or by participation in a great number of organizations. POpularity Score is the number of times a student was mentioned by his peers as being the most p0pular on the informal measure of peer acceptance. Leadership Score is the number of times a student was mentioned by his peers as the one to represent the high school at a meeting of high school students on the informal measure of peer acceptance. 4Social participation is called formal acceptance and peer acceptance in the formal school structure by Smucker. All three of these terms are synonymous. 31 Hypotheses Conflicting results have been found in studies con- cerning the relationship between fashion leadership and social participation. Myers5 found no significant relation- ship between social participation and fashion adoption for university women. Glickman6 and Marshall7 found that male fashion leaders tended to participate to a higher degree in organizations and activities. Wilson8 found that female high school students who were early adoPters showed a ten- dency toward greater social participation than late ad0pters. Since the majority of studies reviewed demonstrated a positive relationship between fashion adOption and social participation, the following hypothesis was pr0posed: 1. There will be a positive relationship between a subject' 3 fashion ad0ption score and the degree of social participation as indicated by her social participation score. 5Carol Ann Myers, "Fashion Opinion Leadership and Fashion AdOption in Relation to Social Participation and Favorableness Toward New Styles in University Women's Cloth- ing" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1971). p. 107. 6Albert S. Glickman, "Clothing Leadership Among Boys" (unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, Ohio State University, 1952), p. 248. 7Eileen Marshall, "Leadership in Men's Fashions Associated with Selected Social Characteristics for a Group of Fraternity Men" (unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1964), pp. 46-47. 8Sharon Wilson, "The Relationship of Fashion Leader- ship to Social Participation and Social Acceptance Among Adolescents" (unpublished Master's thesis, University of Minnesota, 1970), p. 35. 32 Since participation in school activities is thought to be composed of both popularity and leadership traits, the two following relationships were predicted: 2. There will be a positive relationship between a student's fashion adOption score and her popularity perceived by her peers as indicated in her p0pular- ity score. 3. There will be a positive relationship between a student's fashion adoption score and her leader- ship abilities perceived by her peers as indicated in her leadership score. Assumptions The following assumptions support this investiga- tion: 1. The clothing worn on the day of data collection is 9 representative of the student's wardrobe. VanDeWal found that when students were asked to describe their favorite school outfit the modal pattern of dress for the favorite school outfit was identical to the modal pattern of dress determined on the day of data collection except for a small discrepancy in shoe type. 2. Seventeen magazine is an indicator of adolescent faéhions. A number of studies have pointed to the p0pu1arity of Seventeen magazine to the female ado- lescent. FolkelU found Seventeen to be the most read magazine of girls 12-17 and Roper11 found that the majority of girls she studied read Seventeen. 9Shally Lynne VanDeWal, "A Study of the Relationship between Clothing Conformity and Peer Acceptance among Eighth Grade Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Purdue University, l968),p. 70. 10Ellis Folke, "Teenagers...And the Print Media," Media/scope, XI, (December, 1967), pp. 118-119. 11Lydia Lou Reper, "Clothing Practices Correlated with NewsPapaer and Magazine Reading Habits of High School Girls in Stillwater, Oklahoma" (unpublished Master's thesis, Oklahoma State University, 1968), p. 20. CHAPTER IV PROCEDURE The procedure used for this study is in some instances the same as that used for the larger interregional study.1 A portion of the data was collected at the same time, using the same sample. However, any elements pertain- ing to fashion are unique to this study and constitute an addition to the existing body of information obtained in the 1968 study. The first section of the procedure describes the selection and development of the measures used in the present study. The second portion discusses the analysis of student dress. The selection of the sample is discussed in the third section. The last section deals with the analysis of the data. 1Interregional project W-98, "The Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Acceptability of Adoles- cents," interregional research conducted in 1968 at Colorado State University, University of Hawaii, University of Nevada, Michigan State University, University of Minnesota, Univer— sity of MIssouri, Utah State University, Washington State University and University of Wisconsin. Michigan State University study was under the direction of Anna M. Creekmore, Agriculture Experiment Station Project 1020. 33 34 Selection andégevelopment of Measuring Instruments Selection of Social Participation, POpularity and Leadership Instruments The social participation information was a part of the data for the interregional study. Prior to the time of data collection in 1968, the organizations of the school were rated as to prestige by all of the students of the school. Gordon's method of obtaining organization prestige was used.2 Through analysis it was found that the prestige ranking of the sophomore class varied little from those of the entire school. The sophomore class rankings were therefore used based on the assumption that ratings by the sample would be the most accurate.» Each student's participation in the formal school structure was determined by a version of Gordon's modified Chapin scale. This was a part of the questionnaire com- pleted by each student at the time of data collection (Appendix A). Scores for social participation consisted of total point values for participation in each organization multiplied by the prestige rank of each organization. The fonmula used was as follows:3 2 . . C. Wayne Gordon, The Soc1al System of the H1 h School, (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1957), pp. 149-158. 3Social participation is called formal acceptance by Smucker. The formula used to obtain the social participation score in this investigation is identical to the formula used by Smucker in obtaining her formal acceptance score. 35 SP E“ (OP x R)n n=l SP = social participation OP = organizational participation R = rank of organization . n = number of organizations r = maximum number of organizations The popularity and leadership information were also data from the interregional study. They were included to determine if either popularity or leadership was signifi- cantly related to fashion leadership. It was felt that participation in the formal school structure is composed of both of these variables. Both were a part of an informal multidimensional peer acceptance measure on the question- naire. The subjects were asked to list the names of their classmates who fit the categories of pOpularity and leader- ship. Any number of names could be listed and any indivi- dual's name could be listed for more than one category. POpularity and leadership scores consisted of the total number of times the subject's name was listed in each of the respective categories. Development of Fashion Instrument The initial problem in determining a fashion score was to find a reliable indicator of adolescent fashions in 1968. Any information from stores in the area concerning 36 the fashion three years previously was considered unreliable. Instead, printed materials were thought to be the best source. Catalogues from large department stores were studied but were found to be more respresentative of the mode rather than new fashion trends. A fashion magazine was determined to be the most apprOpriate indicator of fashions of a previous time period. In reviewing the literature, Sgyggf teen magazine appeared to be the most read adolescent fashion magazine. Seventeen, therefore, was selected as the most appr0priate indicator of adolescent fashion. Twelve Seventeen magazines, extending over a time period of three years, were selected for use in developing a fashion measuring instrument. The twelve issues included the January, March, May and August issues of 1966, 1967 and 1968. The January issue was considered to be essential because it could yield winter fashions at the beginning of the year and would exclude the more dressy holiday fashions of November or December. The March issue was found to be a good indicator of spring fashions. The May issue was impor- tant because it coincided with the exact month of data collection and because it pictured many summer fashions. The August issue was found to contain the greatest number of fashion items of all magazines, particularly school clothing. Fashions of all seasons were necessary, since the data collection was done in May when the weather called for both warm and cool apparel. 37 All twelve magazines were obtained through back date magazine dealers for direct use by the investigator. Each issue was reviewed by the investigator and every clothing picture complying with the following criteria was numbered consecutively: 1. The total outfit pictured was completely visible, particularly skirt length and leg covering. 2. The picture was in color. 3. The clothing pictured was in compliance with the dress code of the school. No pants or shorts outfits for girls were allowed by the school. 4. The clothing was considered appropriate for school by the investigator. Those outfits clearly intended for evening wear were excluded. This included formals, low-cut or strapless dresses and dresses of more formal fabrics such as velvet, lace or a.sheer fabric. The editorial describing the garment was used as a guide to clarify details. Some degree of latitude was exercised within the above stipulations both to increase the size of the selection and because the sample presented a large range of clothing types from very casual to more dressy. The total number of pictures per magazine that fit the criteria ranged from 21 to 138. The August issues of each year were found to contain a far greater number of 38 apprOpriate pictures. Twenty pictures for each issue were randomly selected from the total number of possibilities in that issue. Each of the twenty pictures was then studied and classified according to eleven dress categories. The eleven dress categories were selected prior to the selection of a fashion standard (Table 1). Six of these categories, including skirt length, leg covering, style, silhouette, fabric design and dominant color were a part of the inter- regional project. The additional five categories were selected by the investigator.’ Accessories, collars and sleeves were felt to be categories subject to fashion change. The color categories of harmony and value were added to further define the dominant color category. The subdivisions of the categories used in the interregional study were selected at that time according to informal observation and discussion with the students prior to the date of data collection.4 The collar, sleeve, accessories, value and harmony subdivisions were designed to allow for some variability and combinations within a limited number of exclusive possibilities. 4Betty Voran Smucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1969), p. 26. Table l. 39 Dress categories and subdivisions. Skirt Length 6" above knee 4" above knee 1-2" above knee at knee cap just below knee 2" below knee LegVCovering textured knit fishnet colored hose plain nylon knee socks anklets none Style dress skirt&shell or sweater skirt and blouse skirt,blouse&sweater jumper and blouse suit culottes and blouse pant dress shift with pants Silhouette A-line shift tent drop-waist,f1are,pleat straight,natural waist natural waist,gathered natural waist,pleated empire waist Accessories scarfs and ribbons belts jewelry scarfs and belts scarfs and jewelry belts and jewelry scarfs,belts, jew. none H armony harmonious moderate contrast Value light medium dark light&medium light&dark medium&dark light,medium&dark Dominant Color red red/orange orange yellow/orange yellow yellow/green green blue/green blue blue/purple purple red/purple brown black white grey 22.1.12; round button-down roll ' mandarin long,pointed convertible tie ruff shawl middy wing tailored none Sleeves sleeveless short long, no cuff long, cuff bishOp bell puffed raglan roll-up Fabric Design solid color small print medium print large print psychedelic print polka dot small stripe medium stripe large stripe plaid small stripe plaid gingham check 40 After classification of each picture, each of the dress categories had a total of twenty ratings among the several subdivisions comprising the category for each issue (Appendix B). In order to assign a weighting factor, the issues of Seventeen were then put into order according to date and numbered consecutively beginning with January, 1966, and continuing through August, 1968. The January, 1966, issue, considered to be the least fashionable in terms of time, was given a weighting of one and so on through August 1968, the latest magazine, which received a weighting of twelve. A final weighting score for each subdivision in each category was then determined as follows: the number of items in a subdivision of a dress category of a particular issue was multiplied by the weight assigned to that issue. All of the weighted numbers for all issues were then summed. This was divided by the sum of the num- ber of items in a subdivision for all months. The formula used is stated below: £(W x I) XI final weight 22% weight number of items in a subdivision of a category for a particular month H II This formula assigned the greatest weightings to the most recent issue (August, 1968) yet still allowed for the occurrence of that subdivision in earlier months. Each 41 subdivision of each category was then assigned a numerical weight according to this formula. Analysis of Student Dress At the time of the collection of the data for the interregional project, 16 millimeter color movies were taken of each student. These movies were made into color prints of each student. At that time also, each female was assigned to the proper subdivision in each of the six dress categories used in the larger project. For the present study, a fashion score sheet for each subject listing the categories and subdivisions was devised. The same classi- fication used in the interregional project for each subject was used for the six identical categories. The subjects were classified on the additional five categories by the investigator. The pictures and films were studied and the subject's outfit was categorized according to the prOper subdivision of each dress category. Each subject then had a fashion score sheet which indicated into which subdivision of each category her outfit was placed. Her category fashion score was then determined by assigning the final weight for the apprOpriate subdivision as determined by the fashion formula. Each category on the subject's fashion score sheet then had a numerical value. All categories were summed to yield a final fashion score. 42 Selection of the Sample The sample for this investigation consisted of all of the females of the soPhomore class of a central Michigan high school present at the time of data collection. This sample was part of the sample used for the interregional research project conducted in 1968. The high school was selected randomly at the time from among four central Michigan high schoohsusing the following criteria: 1. An enrollment large enough to provide a sample size of at least 100 male and 100 female sophomore students. 2. A single public high school serving the city and the sourrounding rural area to allow for the inclusion of all possible socio-economic levels present in the community. 3. A dress code not requiring uniforms, obviously necessary for both the larger project concerning clothing behaviors and this study dealing with fashion. Analysis of the Data Pearson product moment correlation coefficients were used in the initial analysis of the relationships between fashion scores and scores on social participation, p0pularity and leadership. A significance level of .05 43 was considered adequate for all analyses. Multivariate and univariate analysis of variance were used in further analyses of the data. CHAPTER V RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The findings of this investigation include a description of the sample, social participation and fashion results, and a discussion of the relationships between fashion, social participation, pOpularity and leadership. Description of the Sample The sample consisted of 110 sophomore girls who 1 participated in the interregional study. The town itself 2 Of the 110 females studied, 60 had a population of 6754. were from the town, 3 were suburban, and 47 were rural residents. Information from the 1960 census showed that the median years of schooling for persons 25 years or over 1Interregional Project W-98, "The Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Acceptability of Adolescents," interregional research conducted in 1968. Michigan State University study was under the direction of Anna M. Creekmore, Agriculture Experiment Station Project 1020. 2U. S. Bureau of the Census, Census of Population: 1960, (Washington, D.C.: U. S. Department of Commerce), Po 54. ‘ 44 45 was 12.0 for the city compared with 10.8 for the state. The median income for the city was $5,681, while the median income for the state was $6,256. Nearly one-third of the employed male residents of the city were engaged in semi- skilled work, or farming.3 The socio-economic level of the females studied was determined by the McGuire White Index used in the interregional study. The majority of girls were in the lower middle level. Social Participation The information concerning participation in the formal school structure was analyzed as part of the inter- regional study. The findings are reported here as they were described by Smucker4 in her study dealing with a number of variables of the interregional investigation. It was found that the members of the SOphomore class participated in few extracurricular activities. The majority of students had low scores, indicating either limited participation or participation in organizations with low prestige ratings (Table 2). Sophomores probably 3U. S. Bureau of the Census, Michigan General Social and Economic Characteristics: 1960, (Washington, D.C.: U. S. Department of Commercé), pp. 183, 191, 206, 287. 4Betty VOran Smucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1969), pp. 35-40. 46 Table 2. Prestige rating of student organizations.* Rating Organization 5 (High) SOphomore Class 5 Varsity Football 5 Varsity Basketball 5 Student Council Cheerleaders Junior Varsity Football Junior Varsity Basketball Spotlight Staff Band Annual Staff Baseball Gymnastics hobobobnbhobtb Wrestling Track Tennis www Pep Club Choir Future Nurses Golf Girls Athletic Association Future Homemakers Key Club Future Farmers Association Future Teachers Future Businessleaders Cross Country NNNNNNNNNNN Audio Visual Art Club Science Club French Club Pen Pals (Low) Other H kaHrAHHA * Betty VOran Smucker, "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1969), p. 37. 47 are not as eligible for higher prestige positions because of their younger age and their relatively low status in the high school structure. Almost one-half of the girls participated in no organizations other than membership in the sophomore class (Table 3). While boys did have a higher degree of partici- pation, it was felt that the greater availability of sports organizations to males accounted for a large share of the difference. T-tests of the difference between the means of male and female participation showed no significant differ- ence, however. The data for the present investigation revealed a mean for social participation among females of 10.36 with a standard deviation of 10.10 and a range of 5 to 54. Table 3. The number of organizations to which the girls belonged.* Number of Organizations Percent of Females Belonging 1 43.7 2 21.8 3 18.2 4 11.8 5 1.8 6 .9 7 1.8 Total 100.0 *Betty Vbran Smucker, "Conformity to and Aware- ness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1969), p. 38. 48 Popularity and Leadership The popularity and leadership scores were taken from the multidimensional measure of informal peer accep- tance of the interregional study. This measure was based on the idea that peer acceptance was multidimensional in nature, consisting of the friendship, pOpularity, dating, leadership and c00peration dimensions. The multidimensional measure presupposes varying dimensions in one degree. The scores for the popularity dimension consisted of the number of times a subject was mentioned as being a popular student. The number of times a subject was mentioned as being the choice to represent the high school at a national meeting of high school students comprised the leadership score. For the females of this study, the popularity scores ranged from O to 43 with the relatively low mean of 3.53 and a standard deviation of 8.15. The Scores varied greatly, with scores above 30 being rare. The leadership scores for the girls ranged from 0 to 38 with a mean of 3.65 and a standard deviation of 7.96. Social participation, popularity and leadership all correlated positively with each other at the .001 level of significance (Table 4). This finding supports the assump- tion that pOpularity and leadership are factors involved in social participation. 49 Table 4. Pearson Product Moment Correlation Coefficients for social participation, popularity and leadership scores. Social Participation A P0pu1arity P0pu1arity o,42*** Leadership 0,72*** 0.31*** *** Significant at the .001 level. EarlyiFashion AdOption The fashion score consisted of the total of each subject's category weightings. The category weights were determined by a formula considering the time of the appear- ance of that item in Seventeen magazine (Table 5). The range of the total fashion score for the girls studied was quite small: from a low of 52.79 to a high of 77.64. The mean fashion score was 66.48 with a standard deviation of 3.97. The small degree of variability may reflect the high degree of conformity found among the females by Smucker.5 An additional analysis of the separate dress cate- gories revealed that some categories had much smaller ranges and deviations than others (Table 6). The length, silhouette and collar categories had the largest deviations. The smaller deviations in the other categories indicated that the subjects conformed more in these categories. 51bid., p. 46. 50 Table 5. Weighting for the subdivisions. Skirt Length 6" above knee............8.94 4" above knee............6.68 1-2" above knee..........3.94 at knee cap..............2.53 just below knee..........0.00 2" below knee............0.00 Leg Covering textured knit............6.45 fishnet..................5.95 colored hose.............8.ll plain nylon..............5.3l knee socks...............8.00 anklets..................0.00 none.....................6.87 Style dress....................6.10 skirt,shell or sweater...6.22 skirt and blouse.........7.48 Skirt,blouse & sweater...7.00 jumper and blouse........6.7l suit.....................5.68 culottes and blouse.....ll.00 pant dress..............10.83 shift with pants.........7.66 Silhouette A-line...................6.45 shift....................4.33 tent.....................6.18 drop-waist,flare or pleat6.66 straight,natural waist...l.00 natural waist,gathered..10.88 natural waist,pleated....7.53 empire waist.............8.00 Fabric Design solid color............6.26 small print............5.80 medium print...........7.25 large print............6.88 psychedelic............0.00 polka dot..............5.20 small stripe...........6.21 medium stripe..........5.72 large stripe...........7.55 plaid..................8.75 small stripe plaid.....5.70 gingham check..........6.7l Accessories scarfs and ribbons.....6.08 belts..................6.64 jewelry................6.8l scarfs and belts.......8.21 scarfs & jewelry.......7.18 belts & jewelry........6.9l scarfs,belts&jewelry...5.50 none...................5.94 Harmony harmonious.............6.32 moderate...............6.81 contrast...............6.63 Value light..................6.l7 medium.................6.66 dark..................1l.00 light & medium.........6.00 light & dark...........5.87 medium & dark..........5.80 light,medium&dark......8.30 51 Table 5. (Continued). Dominant Color red......................5.85 red/orange...............8.00 orange...................5.73 yellow/orange............8.00 yellow...................6.55 yellow/green.............6.33 green...... ......... .....6.55 blue/green...............7.50 blue.....................5.60 blue/purple..............0.00 purple...................4.50 red/purple...............6.00 brown....................6.90 black....................8.ll white....................7.50 grey....................10.00 Collar round....................4.7O button-down..............7.58 roll.....................7.28 mandarin.................9.18 long, pointed...........ll.25 convertible..............9.33 tie......................9.83 ruff.....................8.83 shawl....................0.00 middy....................7.00 wing.....................0.00 tailored.................7.4l none.....................5.57 Sleeves sleeveless.............5.9l short..................5.54 long, no cuff..........6.72 long, cuff.............7.96 bishOp.................0.00 bell...................4.85 puffed.................9.l4 raglan.................0.00 roll-up................7.16 It appeared through analysis that the variability in some categories was so small as to make them unimportant as fashion indicators for this sample. In the accessories category, for example, the majority of girls wore no acces- sories. Likewise, the large majority of subjects wore 52 outfits of harmonious colors. In the final analysis, it was obvious that some categories contributed to the final fashion score in a much greater degree than did others. Table 6. Ranges, means and standard deviations of dress categories. Standard Range Mean Deviation Skirt Length 0—8.94 3.73 1.60 Leg Covering 0.8.11 5.68 1.11 Style 5.68-11.00 6.64 0.92 Silhouette l.00-10.88 5.68 1.92 Fabric Design 5.20-8.75 6.44 0.84 Accessories 5.94-6.91 6.13 0.36 Harmony 6.32-6.81 6.35 0.12 value 5.80-11.00 6.43 1.10 Color 4.50-8.11 6.29 0.85 Collar 4.70-ll.25 6.21 1.43 Sleeve 4.85-9.14 6.91 0.93 Total Fashion Score 52.79-77.64 66.48 3.97 53 EarlyFashion Adoption and Social Participation, ngularity and Leadership Those students having the higher fashion scores were considered early adopters in terms of the Seventeen magazine indicator. Similarly, those subjects having the higher social participation scores were considered leaders in the formal organizations of the school. Hypothesis 1 predicted a positive relationship between the time of fashion adOption and the degree of participation in formal school organizations. That is, the early fashion adoPters were expected to be organiza- tional leaders. Pearson product moment correlation co- efficients were used to analyze the relationship between fashion scores and social participation scores. The cor- relation coefficient of -0.02 proved not to be significant. Both pOpularity and leadership were considered elements of participation in school organizations. Hypo- thesis 2 predicted a positive relationship between the time of a subject's fashion ad0ption and her pOpularity. Similary, Hypothesis 3 predicted a positive relationship between a subject's time of fashion adoption and her leadership abilities as perceived by her peers. The relationships between these variables proved not to be significant. The correlation coefficient between fashion scores and p0pularity scores was -0.02, while the coef- ficient between fashion and leadership was -0.01. 54 Discussion DeSpite the original theories which support the hypotheses, these results can be explained in several ways. It is quite possible that those students in the sample who were leaders in the formal organizations of the school simply were not fashion leaders. The findings of the interregional study indicated that these organizational leaders were aware of clothing modes, but did not conform nor wear préfiigious clothing. It appears from the results of this study that neither were they fashion leaders. It is possible that in being organizational leaders, these students did not need to excel in other areas. They may have obtained enough prestige and recognition from their organizational leadership activities and were not concerned with any type of clothing leadership. Van Staden6 did find that those girls who were pOpular or were leaders wore prestigious clothing. It is possible that prestige in the eyes of one's peers was important enough and fashion as found in Seventeen magazine was not utilized for prestige. Smith and Nystrom'7 also found little carry over of 6Francine Johanna Van Staden, "The Relationship of Prestigious Clothing to Acceptance by the Peer Group of Adolescent Boys and Girls," (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1970), pp. 59 & 60. 7Mapheus Smith and W. C. Nystrom, "A Study of Social Participation and of Leisure Time of Leaders and Nonleaders," Journal of Applied Psychology, Vol. 21, (1937), p. 255. 55 leadership traits and Strickland8 found that the girls in her study possessing high leadership skills tended to par- ticipate in fewer clubs. Concerning clothes, Myers8 found no relationship between fashion leadership and social par- ticipation in university women. The sample itself may have also influenced the end result. The community was relatively small and the resi- dents were acquainted with one another. Clothing may not have been used in the same manner as it is in an area where anonymity is the standard. Since everyone was fam- iliar with everyone else, there was less need to communicate role, prestige and impression through clothing. Fashion may have been relatively unimportant and clothing may have served only a functional aspect. Any study of fashion adOption, therefore, would have served little purpose in terms of the standards of the particular social group. Some problems also seem to reside in the fashion measure itself. The assumption that Seventeen magazine was an indicator of adolescent fashion was based on a review of literature concerning adolescent sources of 8Earline Strickland, "Relationship of Clothing and Personal Appearance and School Participation of Girls in a Mississippi High School" (unpublished Master's thesis, Iowa State University, 1969), pp. 62-63. 9Carol Ann Myers, "Fashion Opinion Leadership and Fashion Adoption in Relation to Social Participation and Favorableness toward New Styles in University Women's Clothing" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1971), p. 105. 56 clothing information. The majority of sources indicated that Seventeen was the most read magazine of adolescent girls. It is possible, however, that Seventeen was not a magazine read by the particular sample studied, had no influence on their clothing behaviors, or simply did not adequately reflect the fashions of the sample. In addition, the categories and subdivisions selected may not have been completely appropriate. The subdivisions within the categories were often not defined precisely enough. Placement of the subject's clothing into the proper subdivision was often quite difficult. Also, analysis revealed that some categories contributed little to the total fashion score. In an effort to determine if some categories may have been more important than others in determining an individual's total fashion score, each category was cor- related with the entire fashion measure (Table 7). It was found that the length, leg covering,silhouette, value and collar categories were significantly correlated with the total fashion score at the .001 level. A number of cate- gories were not significantly correlated. These findings suggest that a few categories comprised the major portion of the total fashion score and that their importance was thereby magnified. The justification for basing a fashion measure on these categories was not anticipated for this study. 57 Table 7. Correlation coefficients of each dress category with the total fashion score. ................................... Total Fashion Score Skirt Length O.51*** Leg Covering 0.38*** Style 0.18 Silhouette 0.57*** Fabric Design 0.25** Accessories -0.l3 Harmony 0.18 Value 0.35*** Dominant Color 0.18 Collar 0.33*** Sleeve 0.18 ** significant at the .01 level. *** significant at the .001 level. 58 Table 8. Correlation coefficients of each dress category with social participation, pOpularity and leadership. Social Participation Popularity Leadership Skirt Length -0.07 0.07 0.02 Leg Covering 0.00 -0.01 -0.03 Style 0.04 —0.03 0.01 Silhouette 0.11 0.15 0.14 Fabric Design -0.09 -0.11 -0.09 Accessories 0.10 -0.04 -0.01 Harmony 0.19* —0.02 0.01 Value -0.06 —0.05 -0.05 Dominant Color 0.02 0.04 0.01 Collar -0.18 —0.13 -0.14 Sleeve 0.08 -0.15 —0.03 Total Fashion Score -0.02 -0.02 -0.01 * significant at the .05 level. 59 Each category was also correlated with social par- ticipation, p0pularity and leadership scores (Table 8). The only positive correlation was found between color har- mony and social participation, significant at the .05 level. The collar category was found to have a negative trend with social participation, although the correlation was not significant. It is interesting to note that the collar category was significantly related to the total fashion score, while the harmony category was not. Also, the harmony category possessed a small range and standard deviation. Such categories may play a large part in the lack of significance found between the total fashion score and social participation. A number of the categories con- tributing in large prOportion to the total fashion score have very low or negative coefficients with the social participation scores. This factor contributes to the final result. Additional analysis of variance tests were also done to check for the masking of any results due to the nature of the social participation measure. In the first analysis, the social participation scores were polarized, using the score of ten as a division point. Twenty-eight students were in the group with the high social participa- tion scores, 82 were in the group having the low scores. Multivariate analysis revealed a significant difference between groups (F=13.607, D.F.=3 and P less than .0001). 60 Univariate analysis, however, revealed that leadership contributed the most to this finding (P less than .0001) with p0pularity contributing little (P less than .0357). The fashion variable did not contribute at all (P less than .8893). The high significance between leadership and social participation was to be expected considering the definition of the social participation variable. A second analysis of variance was conducted using the same cell size. Twenty-eight subjects were drawn randomly from the group having low scores. The findings were similar, although less significant. Multivariate analysis revealed some difference between the groups (F=6.214, D.F.=3 and P less than .0011). Univariate ana- lysis showed that leadership was the only variable con- tributing to significance (P less than .0052), while pop- ularity (P less than .4375) and fashion (P less than .7679) did not contribute. These analyses seemed to show that there was not any difference between the high social participation group and the low social participation group in terms of their fashion score. Supporting the earlier results, those who participated to a greater extent in the formal organizations of the high school did not wear more fashionable clothing as determined by the fashion measure using Seventeen magazine. 61 Conclusions The hypotheses and results are summarized below: Hypothesis 1: There will be a positive relation- ship between a subject's fashion adOption score and the degree of social participation as indicated by her social participation score. The hypothesis was partially confirmed. Only one dress category of eleven showed a correlation coefficient with social participation significant at the .05 level. Hypothesis 2: There will be a positive relation- ship between a student's fashion adOption score and her pOpularity perceived by her peers as indicated in her pOpularity score. Hypothesis 3: There will be a positive relation- ship between a student's fashion adoption score and her leadership abilities perceived by her peers as indicated in her leadership score. Neither hypothesis 2 nor hypothesis 3 were confirmed by the findings of this investigation. CHAPTER VI SUMMARY In a 1968 interregional study concerning adolescents and their clothing behavior, Michigan State University collected data from 241 sophomore high school students. The variables studied were clothing conformity, awareness and prestige; informal peer acceptance and participation in the formal school structure. Analysis of the inter- regional data revealed a variety of relationships, includ- ing a positive correlation between clothing awareness and participation in formal organizations. All three clothing variables correlated with the measures of informal peer acceptance. A comprehensive review of the literature for the present study supports the importance of clothing to the adolescent. Because of the transitional nature of this age period, a strong reliance on the peer group is fostered. Clothing is one visible means of relating to the peer group and inducing its positive support. Fashion in terms of trend-setting is one clothing behavior important to the adolescent, as evidenced by the degree to which fashion magazines are read. 62 63 Participation in formal school organizations was found to be an important aspect of the high school struc- ture when reviewing the literature. The literature concern- ing the prevalence of leadership qualities in a variety of areas of an individual's life proved to be inconclusive. A number of studies, however, have demonstrated a positive relationship between social participation in formal organi- zations and clothing leadership. The primary objective of this study was to deter- mine if the students who participated in the formal school organizations of the interregional study were fashion leaders. It was felt that their clothing may have been ahead of the norm and that they were early fashion adOpters. A second purpose was to develop a fashion instrument with which to classify the subject's stage of fashion adoption. Finally, since p0pularity and leadership abilities were considered factors involved in participation in the formal school structure, another goal was to compare these variables with fashion adoption. On the basis of the literature reviewed, a hypo- thesis was formulated pr0posing a positive relationship between fashion adOption and the degree of social partici- pation. Additional hypotheses predicted relationships between pOpularity, leadership and social participation. The fashion measure was develOped using Seventeen magazine as an indicator of adolescent fashion. Twelve 64 issues covering a time period from 1966 to 1968 were selected. Twenty pictures from each issue were randomly selected as fashion indicators. Eleven dress categories, composed of several descriptive subdivisions each, were compiled. A formula considering the date of appearance of a clothing item and the number of times it appeared in Seventeen was applied to each subdivision. Each subdivision within a dress category was assigned a numerical weighting using the formula. The sample used consisted of 110 females of the sample used in the interregional study. At the time of data collection in 1968, colored movies were made of each student. Prints were made from the movies. Using the movies and prints, each subject's outfit was analyzed and categorized according to the same subdivision of the dress categories. The approPriate weightings for the subdivisions were assigned to each category for each subject. A11 cate- gory weightings were summed to yield a fashion score. The socres for the social participation, popularity and leadership variables were determined at the time of the 1968 interregional study.. The social participation score was comprised of the number of organizations a student participated in and the prestige rankings of these organizations. The popularity score was the number of times the student was mentioned by his peers as being popular. Similarly, leadership scores consisted of the 65 number of times a subject was mentioned by his peers as being a likely representative of the high school at a national meeting of high school students. Pearson product moment correlations and analysis of variance were used in the analysis of the data. The pr0posed hypotheses and the results are summarized below: Hypothesis 1: There will be a positive relationship between a subject's fashion ad0ption score and the degree of social partici- pation as indicated by her social participation score. The hypothesis was only partially confirmed. One dress category of eleven showed a significant correlation with social participation at the .05 level. Hypothesis 2: There will be a positive relationship between a student's fashion adOption score and her p0pularity perceived by her peers as indicated in her popularity score. ' Hypothesis 3: There will be a positive relationship between a student's fashion adoption score and her leadership abilities perceived by her peers as indicated in her leadership score. Neither hypothesis 2 nor hypothesis 3 was confirmed by the findings of this investigation. Although statistical analysis revealed that the pr0posed relationships were not significant, the investiga- tion made several contributions. Another method of measur- ing fashion adoption was developed. In addition, these results add to the studies indicating that no relationships between areas of leadership exist. CHAPTER VII RECOMMENDATIONS AND IMPLICATIONS As a result of the findings of this investigation, several recommendations and implications can be made. There is a potential for modification of the fashion in- strument for further use. The results, although not signi- ficant, do have implications for further study and research. Recommendations for Refinement of the Early Fashihn Adoption Measure In the review of literature concerning fashion, it became obvious that only a limited number of means were used to measure fashion ad0ption. Either the subject indi- cated her own level of fashion ad0ption, or members of the social group indicated whom they perceived as fashion inno- vators, early ad0pters or followers. Goodell1 compared the two techniques for the identification of fashion leaders. She found differences between fashion leaders identified in these two ways and other variables such as clothing interest lAnne Goodell, "Comparison of Two Techniques for the Identification of Fashion Leaders" (unpublished Master's thesis, Ohio State University, 1967), p. 15. 66 67 and ownership. It seems, therefore, that these two tech- niques identify different people. Some measure that would accurately identify fashion leaders on a more objective basis would be a great asset to the study of fashion. During this study, the investigator came to feel that the method of using a standard against which to measure subjects could offer a more accurate and objective means of measuring fashion adOption. Some aSpects, however, need modification for a more precise, valid and well- develOped indicator. While working with the measure, the investigator found that several areas in particular could be refined. For example, the time span used for the indicator of fashion could be lengthened. In this study, only three years of Seventeen magazine were used. Many subjects seemed to be wearing clothing of a much earlier time period. By extending the time period used as an indicator, a more accurate measure in terms of the relationships of the sub- divisions to one another could be developed. Each weight- ing would then be more precise in relation to all other weightings. Similarly, more issues of the magazine within the year could be utilized to further refine the weightings. Twenty appropriate pictures were often difficult to find within one month. Perhaps a greater number of months could allow for a decrease in the number of pictures needed for 68 each month. In addition, the greater number of months would allow for more accuracy in determining the times of fashion changes and the resulting weightings. In the initial develOpment of the fashion measure, modes for each month rather than category weightings by formula were used. It was thought that each dress cate- gory would have a particular subdivision which would have appeared the most in a particular month, making it the mode. The subdivisions would then have been weighted according to when they were the mode in Seventeen. In initial testing, it was discovered that many categories had more than one mode. In addition, this method did not account for the appearance of that subdivision in other issues. The formula used was devised to accommodate for these factors. Possibly further analysis could yield an even more sensitive formula for determining the weightings of each subdivision within the dress categories. The dress category subdivisions could also be defined differently. The results seemed to indicate that several of the categories were relatively unimportant in determining fashion adoption. These categories should be eliminated altogether and the remaining categories expanded. While using the measure, it became obvious that many of the subdivisions were not defined precisely enough. Because of the definitions, many subjects fell into subdivisions which had high weightings, even though their clothing was not new 69 in terms of fashion. Prior to the analysis of student dress, the subdivisions and pictures of the students were reviewed briefly to insure adequate subdivision definitions. However, the need for especially detailed definitions was not anticipated. For example, in the silhouette category, the natural waist, pleated subdivision received the rela- tively high weighting of eight. The weighting was high because pleated kilts became p0pular in 1968. However, those students wearing the box pleated skirts p0pular quite a number of years earlier received the eight weighting. The existence of several subdivisions such as this could distort an individual's total score. It appears, therefore, that more subdivisions should be added with precise defini- tions. When analyzing dress, each subject's clothing could then be placed in a subdivision that matched very closely. The resulting fashion score would have a much greater degree of accuracy. In the final analysis, the investigator felt that this type of fashion indicator could make a valuable con- tribution to fashion research. This was the first attempt at developing and applying the measure, and on the basis of the problems presented, further modification is neces- sary. With the refinements suggested, however, a measuring instrument of this type could be a valuable tool adaptable to many varieties of fashion research. 70 Implications for Further Research It was felt that the increased objectivity of the fashion measure could be an asset in further fashion research. Such a method could be applied to women's fashion investigations by altering the fashion indicator and categories used. With the increasing interest in male fashion, male magazines could be used as indicators of male fashion behavior, with the apprOpriate male dress categories for analysis. The findings also imply that further research in adolescent leadership is needed. Cole and Hall2 stated that "...the high school that can influence its student leaders to exercise their power along desirable lines is not likely to have serious difficulty with the student body as a whole." By their very nature, student leaders' in- fluence is large. In knowing more about characteristics of student leaders, school administrators may be better equipped to deal with student problems. Fashion leader- ship information may assist in the develoPment or abolish- ment of school dress codes; often a source of student— faculty conflict. Further research may also be conducted in other areas. The area from which the sample was drawn was 2Luella Cole and Irma Nelson Hall, Ppychology of Adolescence, (New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., I§7oyl p.173. 71 considered a rural area. Clothing may have served different functions and fashion may not always be an important factor. Prior to the study, the investigator made a trip to the site of data collection. In observing local store merchan- dise, many clothing items were observed which had hang tags saying, "As seen in Seventeen." Many brand names adver- tised in Seventeen were also observed. The availability of such merchandise does not assure its consumption by the high school market, however. A similar study in a differ- ent area may show a greater interest in fashion. Additional studies of high school students and fashion are needed at present. The last few years seem to have heralded a whole new idea in clothing. Fashion, in terms of the prestige "high" fashion may be becoming less important, particularly to adolescents. The type of clothing appearing in Seventeen may not be as important to high school students as it was previously. This data of 1968 may have been the beginning of a new trend in high school clothing. Finally, the importance of conformity in adolescence cannot be overlooked. Further studies comparing the degree of fashion innovation with the degree of conformity would be valuable. It is possible that conformity to the mode is much more important to the adolescent than any prestige or recognition gained through the early ad0ption of fashion apparel. BIBLIOGRAPHY BIBLIOGRAPHY Books Cole, Luella and Hall, Irma Nelson, Ppychology_of Adolggf cence. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., Coleman, James. The Adolescent Sociepy. Glencoe, Illi- nois: The Free Press, 1961. Gordon, C. Wayne. The Social System of the High School. Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1957. Hurlock, Elizabeth. Develgpmental Ppychology. New York: McGraw—Hill Book Company, 1959. Jarnow, Jeanette and Judell, Beatrice. Inside the Fashion Business. New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1965. Jersild, Arthur. The Psychology of Adolescence. New York: The MacMillan Company, 1963. Kuhlen, Raymond. The Psychoiggy of Adolescent Development. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1952. Rogers, Everett M. Diffusion of Innovations. New York: The Free Press, 1962. Strang, Ruth. The Adolesggnt Views Himself. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1957. U. S. Bureau of the Census. Census of P0pulation: 1960. Washington, D.C.: U. S. Department of Commerce. U. S. Bureau of the Census. Michigan General Social and Economic Characteristics 1960. Washington, D.C.: U. S. Department of Commerce. 72 73 Articles Abels, Harold and Gingles, Ruby. "Identifying Problems of Adolescent Girls." Journal of Educational Research, V01. 58, (1965), 389-392. Barber, Beranrd and Loebel, Lyle S. ”'Fashion' in Women's Clothes and the American Social System." Social Forces, Vol. 31, (December, 1952), 124-131. Bernard, Jessie. "Teen-Age Culture: An Overview." The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science, V01. 338, (November, I961),‘l-12. Blumer, Herbert. "From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection." Sociolggicalqguarteriy, X, (Summer, 1969),275-291. Brown, Douglass. "Factors Affecting Social Acceptance of High School Students." The School Review, V01. 62, (March, 1954), 151-155. Croake, James W. "Adolescent Fears." Adolescence, Vol. 2, (1967), 459-468. Flemming, E. G. "A Factor Analysis of the Personality of High School Leaders." Journal of Applied Ppychol- ggy, V01. 19, (1935), 5961605. Folke, Ellis I. "Teenagers and Print Media." Medialscopg, XI, (December, 1967), 117-122. Hamilton, Janice and Warden, Jessie. "The Student's Role in a High School Community and his Clothing Behavior." Journal of Home Economics, Vol. 58, No. 10, (December, 1966) 789-791. Janney, J. E. "Fad and Fashion Leadership Among Under- graduate Women." Journal of Abnormal and Social Psychology, XXXVI, (1941), 275-278. Krumboltz, John D. "The Relationship of Extracurricular Participation to Leadership Criteria." Personnel and Guidance Journal, Vol. 35, (January, 1957), 307-313. Marks, John. "Interest and Leadership Among Adolescents," Journal of Genetic Psycholggy, V01. 91 (1957), 163-172. 74 Rand, Lester. "Where Teenage Money Goes." PTA Magazine, Roach, Mary Ellen. "Adolescent Dress: Understanding the Issues." Education Digest, Vol. 35, (February, Silverman, Sylvia. “Clothing and Appearance." The Adoles- cent: A Bogk of Readings. Theodore Newcomb, Ed. New York: The Dry en Press, 1953. Simmel, Georg. "Fashion." International Quarteriy, X, (October, 1904), 130-155. Smith, Mapheus and Nystrom, W. C. "A Study of Social Participation and of Leisure Time of Leaders and Nonleaders." Journal of Applied Psychology, Vol. 21, (1937), 251-259. Takahashi, Charlene and Newton, Audrey. "Perceptions of Clothing Conformity." Journal of Home Economics, Vol. 59, No. 9, (November, 1967) 720-723. Vener, Arthur and Hoffer, Charles. "Adolescent Orientation to Clothing." Dress, Adornment and the Social Order, Mary Ellen Roach and Joanne Eicher, eds. New York: John Wiley and Sons, (1965), 76-81. Wax, Murray. "Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming." Dress, Adorpment apd the Social Order, Mary Ellen Roach and Joanne Eicher, eds. New York: John Wiley and Sons, (1965), 36-45. Williams, Madelyn C. and Eicher, Joanne B. "Teenagers' Appearance and Social Acceptance." Journal of Home Unpublished Sources Bullock, MarilynJosey. "Fashion Awareness of Students in Selected Rural and Urban Areas." Unpublished Master's thesis, Texas Technological University, 1970. Glickman, Albert S. "Clothing Leadership among Boys." Unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, Ohio State Univer- sity, 1952. 75 Goodell, Anne. "Comparison of Two Techniques for the Iden- tification of Fashion Leaders." Unpublished Master's thesis, Ohio State University, 1967. Horn, Marilyn. "A Method for Determining Normative Patterns of Dress." Proceedings of National Textiles and Clothing Meeting. Minneapolis, June, 1968. King, Charles. "Fashion Ad0ption: A Rebuttal to the Trickle- Down Theory." Proceedings of the Winter Conference of the American Marketing Association. Boston, Mass., December 27—28, 1963. 108-125. Marshall, Eileen. "Leadership in Men's Fashions Associated with Selected Social Characteristics for a Group of Fraternity Men." Unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1964. Masumoto, Sachiko. "The Relationship of Dress and Behavior Associated with Dress to the Social Participation of the Adolescent Boy and Girl." Unpublished Mas- ter's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1958. Moore, Kathleen. "Fashion Leadership Designation and Related Factors among a Group of Adolescent Girls." Unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1962. Myers, Carol Ann. "Fashion Opinion Leadership and Fashion Adoption in Relation to Social Participation and Favorableness toward New Styles in University Women's Clothing." Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1971. "Relationship of Clothing to the Personal and Social Accept- ability of Adolescents." Washington Agriculture Experiment Station Bulletin 750, Western Regional Research Bulleting published by Washington Agricul- ture Experiment Station, College of Agriculture, Washington State University, February, 1972. Roper, Lydia Lou. "Clothing Practices Correlated with News- paper and Magazine Reading Habits of High School Girls in Stillwater, OklahomaJ' Unpublished Master's thesis, Oklahoma State University, 1968. Schrank, Holly Lois. "Fashion Innovativeness and Fashion Opinion Leadership as Related to Social Insecurity, Attitudes toward Conformity, Clothing Interest and Socioeconomic Level." Unpublished Ph.D. disserta- tion, Ohio State University, 1970.’ 76 Smucker, Betty Voran. "Conformity to and Awareness of the Clothing Mode Related to the Peer Acceptance of Adolescent Boys and Girls." Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1969. Strickland, Earline. "Relationship of Clothing and Personal Appearance and Social Participation of Girls in a Mississippi High School." Unpublished Master's thesis, Iowa State University, 1969. Treat, Kathryn R. "Clothing Behavior Related to Clothing Leadership and Participation for Selected Groups of 4H-Club Girls." Unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1966. VanDeWal, Shally Lynne. "A Study of the Relationship between Clothing Conformity and Peer Acceptance among Eighth Grade Girls." Unpublished Master's thesis, Purdue University, 1968. Van Staden, Francine. "The Relationship of Prestigious Clothing to Acceptance by the Peer Group of Adoles- cent Boys and Girls." Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1970. Wilson, Sharon. "The Relationship of Fashion Leadership to Social Participation and Social Acceptance among Adolescents." Unpublished Master's thesis, University of Minnesota, 1970. APPENDIX A QUESTIONNAIRE Dear Students: We would like your help in our survey about teenagers and their clothing. It is only with the help of you students that our study can be of value. At the beginning of each section you will find directions for the correct procedure to follow in that section. We would very much appreciate your cooperation in completely filling out the following questionnaire to the best of your knowledge. Thank you. Name Age Male Female Check where you live: In Town Suburb Rural Area 77 78 (2) Below is a list of the organizations in your school. Check ’your position in those to which you belong. 9H o l I 8 c 8 ected Officer 3 bhme of Organization 3 g 3 (other than ,g -H .:-H president) -; E m E iflrite name of 0 o .c o . . h o o o p031t10n 9* 1. So omore Class 2. Art C u o;Visua Girls Athletic Association uture Nurses Future Teachers . Pen Pals . C u . Science C u 0. Promo C u 11. Future Business Lea ers of America . K C u . Annua . Ba . Choir . Cheerleaders . Fu ure Farmers . u ure omemaiers . S t1 ht Staff . Studen Council . ars L'OO . Jr Vars Foot . Varsit Basket 11 . Jr. Varsi Baske . Baseball . Cross Co . Golf . vanastics . Tennis 0. Track . ,rest in er ta Do Not Nrite “In This Column 79 (3) Please indicate the main wage earner in your family. father mother other (please specify) (example: stepfather, uncle, brother) Please indicate the source of income for the major wage earner in your family. a) wages, hourly wages (weekly paycheck) b) profits and fees from a business or profession c) salary paid on a monthly basis d) social security or unemployment insurance e) odd jobs, irregular work, seasonal work f) if other, please eXplain Please eXplain in detail what the main wage earner does at work. Please eXplain Specifically type 2: work. Examples: salesman in a clothing store, waiter, manages 20 other workers in an office, works on the assembly-line, owns and manages a small store with 6 employees. Does any other person contribute to the financial support of your family? yes no If yes, please eXplain who (mother, brother, uncle). Please eXplain in detail the type of work done by this person. Do Not Write in This Column. 80 (9) Please indicate the source of income for the second person who contributes to your family's financial U) s: 73 T5 0 3- H!!! a) wages, hourly wages (weekly paycheck) b) profits and fees from a business or profession c) salary paid on a monthly basis d) social security or unemployment insurance e) odd jobs, irregular work, seasonal work f) if other, please explain Please indicate highest level of education achieved by each of the following: l—-" 30:: H; (D CL 0 0‘ m VVVVVVVVV H'Fi mrw father mother main wage earner (if other than mother or father) finished 7th grade or lower finished 8th grade finished 9th grade finished 10th or 11th grade graduated from high school 1 to 3 years of college college graduate graduate school after college don't know the main wage earner is a college graduate, what the highest degree he holds? Do Not Write In This Column List the full names of tenth gpade students that best fit each of the following: 1. Which students in your grade are your best friends (the ones you feel closest to)? 2. Who do you think are the most popular students in your grade? 3. Give the names of the students in your grade that you would most like to date. 4. List the names of students in your grade whom you would like to represent your high school at a national meeting of high school students. 5. If all the students in your grade were asked to help on a class project which of the students would you like to work with? 82 (6) You will find all the tenth grade students' names listed below; we would like you to show the degree of closeness you would most prefer with each by circling the proper number beside their name. Classify each student according to the categories listed below. Notice that each. situation represents a different degree of "closeness? Please be sure to circle one number by evegy name. Beside each student's name circle one number which is closest to how you feel: 0 if you don't know this person very well 1 if you would be in the same class with this person 3 if you would enjoy eating lunch with this person 4 if you would choose this student to be a close friend ._ .__.- u.“ Students' Names Circle Students' Names Circle Number here Number here 83 (10) I. You will find,on the following pages, pictures of both boys and girls items of clothing. The pictured items are divided into categories according to style and ways of wearing them. Circle one item in each category which you think is most commoniy worn by the majority of boys or girls in your class. A. Girls Shirt Length \ (a \ l \ ) K \t i \i :' \z I \I = x: 1).] )l 3;. i 2' I A Vi - F» V S) v 1. u. 5. 6. ,.About 6" . About 4” ~1About l" - 2" .At Knee Cap Just Below 2" Below .Above Knee Above Knee .Above Knee Knee Knee E; Girls Leg Covering 1. Colored Fish Net Colored Bobby Socks Nc xtured Knit Hosiery Hosiery or Anklets Cover Hosiery Skirt & Blouse Skirt, Blouse 86 (13) E. Girls Fabric Design of Dresses or Skirts 1. Solid Cblor 4. Large Print 7. Small Stripe 10. Plaid a. f:¥:* .¢l.‘ * *§?¥;::‘r*is *1); :r .* * Xv s is a i{* . 11* f ' -¥ I .. g @ («1N (.éa , 1£C3i§s.ud=flahzii 5. Psychedelic Print _.——-—..._——-—,._..d- 4“. 8. Medium Stripe 11. Small Stripe Plaid 87 (14) F. Girls Shoes 1. Penny Loafer 2. Plain Loafer 4.Buckle Loafer 5. High Top (Tie or Buckle) 6. Moccasin c o‘.‘ ~ \— ifl—ww w 8. White Tennis Shoe 9. Colored Tennis Shoe a We (=9:— 10. Plain Flats 11. Flats with Open Work 12. Sandal 13. Patent Block Heels 4. Stack Heels (Pump or Sling Back) 1(Pump or T-Strap) 88 (15) Q. Boys Trousers lflgph ( \ r N 1 / d . Long with 1+. 2" above 5. 4" above Wrinkle 20 pr of Shoe 3. Ankle Ankle Ankle 11.. Boys Trousers - fit p 1 \. ILA “Us L 1 . Very Tight 2. Tight 3. Medium 1+. Loose 5. Baggy I I g l F— —— I.Bfoys Trousers m J. Boys Trousers gm 1 . J eans 2. Causal Slacks 3. Dress Slacks .No Cliff 89 (16) K.Boys Shirt Collars _ w w ;\ : Button-down Collar convertible collar Cbllarless Khit Shirt Plain Collar 5. 6. 7. Turtle Neck Jersey or Sweatshirt Hock Turtle Neck llar O O Q 1 1. [2. 3 ' . 5. 6. ‘uolid Collar Small Stripe Plaid Large Print Small Print Horizontal Polka Dot Striped H.130” Shirt Tails IN or OUT 0 1. 2. 39 a. 1' 5. Dress Shirt Dress Shirt Pullover Pullover Jac Shirt IN OUT OUT IN 001- N’. Boys Shirt 9321.211 1. Black 6. Gold 11. Purple 2. Light Blue 7. Green 12. Red 3. Dark Blue 80 01176"-,Groen 13. Tan 4. Brown 9' Grey 14. “111150 5. Cranberry 10' Oranges. 15' Yellow 0. Boys Shoes 8: Socks :fif: Slip On With Buckle 2. Slip On i. High Top Loafer 6. Moccasin 7. Dark Blue Tennis 8. Other Color Tenni; ,_ LowSided, White 10. Open Weave Fabric Sport Tennis . High Cut, Pointed 1"». Desert Boot Toe, Dress Shoe 1 . White Socks 2. Dark Socks 3. Patterned Socks 4. Light Socks 5. No Socks (black, Grey, brown, (tan, gold, rust, dark blue 3. green) cranberry, light green) .I. New go'baok over the pictures and write “IN" by any one of the items in each category which you think is the "newest thing going”. Write "001'" by the items which are completely “out of it'. If none of the pictures in a category represents what you think is the “IN” or 'OUT' item show how your idea is different by marking over the pictured its: most nearly like it. APPENDIX B FREQUENCIES OF ITEMS IN SUBDIVISIONS OF DRESS CATEGORIES FOR ALL ISSUES AND DETERMINATION OF FINAL WEIGHT FOR EACH SUBDIVISION FREQUENCIES OF ITEMS IN SUBDIVISIONS OF DRESS CATEGORIES FOR ALL ISSUES AND DETERMINATION OF FINAL WEIGHT FOR EACH SUBDIVISION Skirt Length Issue Weight 6" 4" 1—2" knee just below 2" below mid-ca1f* Jan 66 (l) 0 1 14 5 0 0 0 Mar 66 (2) 1 4 13 2 0 0 0 May 66 (3) 3 8 7 2 0 0 0 Aug 66 (4) 3 7 8 2 0 O 0 Jan 67 (5) 3 3 12 2 O 0 0 Mar 67 (6) 1 7 12 0 0 0 0 May 67 (7) 10 9 1 0 0 0 0 Aug 67 (8) 12 6 2 0 0 0 0 Jan 68 (9) 13 5 2 0 0 0 0 Mar 68 (10) 12 7 1 0 O 0 0 May 68 (ll) 17 O 0 0 O O 3 Aug 68 (12) 12 7 l 0 0 0 0 778 428 288 33 0 O 33 ‘37 —62' ‘7'3' 1'3 6' 6' 3 Total sub- division weight 8.94 6.68 3.94 2.53 0.00 0.00 11.00 * This subdivision was not in the interregional study, nor did it appear in the sample. It did, however, appear in the May, 1968, issue of Seventeen. U'I WothubI-‘NNGOUJUI N co Leg'Covering Fish Knee Issue Weight Textured Net Colored Plain Socks None Anklets Jan 66 (l) l 3 8 3 0 0 Mar 66 (2) 0 2 14 0 1 0 May 66 (3) 0 0 13 0 7 0 Aug 66 (4) 1 3 4 4 0 0 Jan 67 (5) 11 0 5 1 1 0 Mar 67 (6) 3 2 11 2 0 0 May 67 (7) 2 1. 10 1 5 0 Aug 67 (8) 0 6 2 8 0 0 Jan 68 (9) 0 4 7 3 0 0 Mar 68 (10) 1 2 4 3 8 0 May 68 (11) 1 6 3 4 2 0 Aug 68 (12) 1 7 4 6 0 0 125 292 452 280 165 0 ‘2T ‘3'? "8'5' "T5 771' 6' Total sub- division weight 3| 6.45 5.95 8.11 5.31 8.00 6.87 0.00 91 Style Skirt&Sh Sk Sk,Bl Jumper CW Pant Shift Issue WE Dress or Sw &B1 &Sw & B1 Suit 321 Dress szant Jan 66 (l) 8 4 2 1 1 4 0 0 0 Mar 66 (2) l4 3 1 0 0 2 0 0 0 May 66 (3) 19 l 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Aug 66 (4) 8 3 6 0 2 1 0 0 0 Jan 67 (5) 12 0 4 0 0 4 0 0 0 Mar 67 (6) 16 2 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 May 67 (7) l7 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 Aug 67 (8) 4 5 3 1 2 3 0 0 2 Jan 68 (9) 16 1 2 0 0 1 0 0 0 Mar 68 (10) 9 2 5 0 0 1 1 2 0 May 68 (11) 10 O 1 0 2 3 1 3 0 Aug 68 (12) 6 4 7 1 0 0 1 1 0 848 168 247 21 47 108 33 65 23 'I39 "27‘ ‘33 ‘3' ‘7 ‘I? "3 "6 '73 Total sub- division weight 6.10 6.22 7.48 7.00 6.71 5.68 11.00 10.83 7.66 Silhouette Straight Natural Natural A- Dr0p Natural Waist, Waist, Issue. Wt line Shift Tent Waist Waist Gathered Pleated Empire Jan 66 (1) 13 2 1 1 2 '0 1 0 Mar 66 (2) 9 10 0 0 0 0 0 1 May 66 (3) 9 10 0 l 0 0 0 0 Aug 66 (4) 13 3 1 3 o o o 0 Jan 67 (5) 8 3 2 5 0 0 2 0 Mar 67 (6) 7 3 5 3 0 0 2 0 May 67 (7) 12 1 4 o o o 1 2 Aug 67 (8) 11 2 2 2 0 0 3 0 Jan 68 (9) l3 2 0 l 0 2 0 2 Mar 68(10) 9 2 1 l 0 4 2 1 May 68(11) 11 1 o 2 o 6 o 0 Aug 68(12) 9 0* o 2 o 6 2 1 800 169 99 140 2 196 98 56 I24' ‘_39 I6' _2I' 2' _I8 '13 '_7 Total sub- division weight 6.45 4.33 6.18 6.66 l 10.88 7.53 8 93 Ha.m oa.m ms.m mm.h Nh.m HN.m ON.m o mm.e mN.N om.m 6N.m uanmz conH>He unsm Hmuoe bl bH. bun bl. HH NH .bH b. bl. mHI MM _hHH he pm mNH mm mm hm Nm o No mHH am mes o o N o o N o o o H o a ANHV me man N o N o o c H o H m H OH AHHV we as: H m H m o H o o o o m m IOHV mm as: H o o o o o o o H H 0 NH lay me can o N e o N N H o o o o m Amy no mas o o o o m o N o e e H m 162 no an: o o H N H N o o N e N m Amy no so: 0 o o o m m H o o o N HH Amy no can o N H H o H o o o H N NH lee we and o o H o H o e o o N N OH 5 me an: m o o H H m H o H o H a ANV we um: o m N o o o o o o o H «H AHV we can .mmmmmmm .Hm eHmHm .num .uum_mmmmmm poo oHHme .Hm .Hm uaHum_mmmmm.mm mmmmm .uum .mH .662 HHmsm mxHom nonummm .6H .66: HHmsm .sm aw mom ownnmm 94 Harmony Issue Weight Harmonious Moderate Contrast Jan 66 (1) l4 3 3 Mar 66 (2) l4 6 0 May 66 (3) 13 5 2 Aug 66 (4) l3 6 1 Jan 67 (5) 10 9 1 Mar 67 (6) 11 9 0 May 67 (7) 13 4 3 Aug 67 (8) 13 6 1 Jan 68 (9) 11 4 5 Mar 68 (10) 10 10 0 May 68 (11) 13 5 2 Aug 68 (12) 12 7 1 930 504 126 177' “71' ’19' Total subdivision weight 6.32 6.81 6.63 Accessories Scarf, Scarf Scarf& Belt& Belt & Issue WE_Scarf Belt Jewelgy &Be1t‘Jewe1£y‘Jewe1§y'Jewelgy None Jan 66 (l) 2 2 2 l 2 1 0 10 Mar 66 (2) 5 3 0 l 0 0 0 11 May 66 (3) 5 0 4 0 1 1 0 9 Aug 66 (4) 4 6 4 1 l ‘ l 0 3 Jan 67 (5) 1 2 3 1 3 3 1 6 Mar 67 (6) 2 1 3 1 7 0 1 5 May 67 (7) 3 0 5 O 3 0 0 9 Aug 67 (8) 3 3 6 0 0 l 0 7 Jan 68 (9) 1 3 4 l 1 1 0 9 Mar 68 (10) 3 3 2 4 3 2 0 3 May 68 (11) 3 3 3 O 4 l 0 6 Aug 68 (12) 3 2 2 4 2 1 0 6 213 186 259 115 194 83 11 499 WWW-I477 17 7 "81' Total sub- division weight 6.08 6.64 6.81 8.21 7.18 6.91 5.50 5.94 95 Value Light& Light Medium Light,Med. Issue WE_Light Medium Dark Medium &Dark & Dark & Dark Jan 66 (1) 4 2 0 7 3 2 2 Mar 66 (2) 5 1 0 3 8 1 2 May 66 (3) 3 1 0 6 5 4 1 Aug 66 (4) 0 1 0 5 5 5 4 Jan 67 (5) 3 2 0 7 5 1 2 Mar 67 (6) 3 2 0 9 2 1 3 May 67 (7) 2 1 0 6 6 3 2 Aug 67 (8) 0 4 0 6 3 3 4 Jan 68 (9) 8 5 0 2 1 1 3 Mar 68 (10) 3 0 0 6 2 1 8 May 68 (ll) 4 l 1 2 6 2 4 Aug 68 (12) 0 1 0 4 3 1 11 216 140 11 378 288 145 382 “35' ‘2'1' ‘1' "'63 "49' "2'5' 1'6 Total sub- division weight 6.17 6.66 11 6.0 5.87 5.80 8.30 96 Dominant Color Red/ Yellow/ Yellow/ Issue WE ng_0range Orange Orange Brown Yellow Green Green Jan 66(1) 3 0 1 0 2 2 3 0 Mar 66 (2) l 0 1 0 2 2 0 3 May 66 (3) 5 0 1 0 3 3 0 1 Aug 66 (4) 1 O 1 0 5 1 0 1 Jan 67 (5) 1 0 2 0 0 1 0 5 Mar 67 (6) 5 0 4 0 O 1 1 1 May 67 (7) 2 0 3 0 1 1 0 1 Aug 67 (8) 3 1 0 3 7 0 1 1 Jan 68 (9) 3 0 O 0 3 3 0 3 Mar 68(10) 1 0 1 0 3 1 4 1 May 68(11) 0 0 1 0 1 3 0 1 Aug 68(12) 2 0 0 0 4 2 0 2 164 8 86 24 214 131 57 131 "2'6 1' IB‘ "3' "3T "70' "9' "2'0' Total sub- division weight 5.85 8.00 5.73 8.00 6.90 6.55 6.33 6.55 (continued) Blue/ Blue/ Red/ Issue Wt Green Blue Purple Purple Purple Black White Green Jan 66 (1) 2 Mar 66 (2) May 66 (3) Aug 66 (4) Jan 67 (5) Mar 67 (6) May 67 (7) Aug 67 (8) Jan 68 (9) Mar 68(10) May 68(11) Aug 68(12) “3 OxlnbNOwl-‘U'IONON l-‘ uh UIwNHOHoowHO U1 0‘ [—1 b O wOOOOOOOI-‘OOO OIO OOOOOOOOOOOO N 0% OOOOOONNOI—‘I—‘O k N OOOOHHWI—‘l—‘OOO [.1 hhonoooooowooo N H U18 wwwmwQI-dwmwom ad 2:! Total sub- division weight 7.50 5.60 0 h e U1 0 m e O 8.11 7.50 10.00 \O \l Collar c: a) ‘U I -H to .4 m c H m .n H '° 3.: H 3 61‘; .‘L' 6 '6‘ .9. 6 5 ‘36 H 6 =3 “:1 2: "a '9. '6 6 Jan 66 (1) 4 0 1 O 0 0 0 0 0 1 14 Mar 66 (2) 7 0 1 0 O 0 1 1 0 0 10 May 66 (3) 4 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 14 Aug 66 (4) 2 1 5 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 9 Jan 67 (5) 1 2 3 1 0 0 0 0 O 2 11 Mar 67 (6) 1 1 2 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 14 May 67 (7) 2 1 6 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 10 Aug 67 (8) 0 4 l 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 14 Jan 68 (9) 0 0 1 3 0 0 0 0 0 5 11 Mar 68(10) 2 2 2 2 1 1 0 1 0 2 7 May 68(11) 3 0 0 2 4 0 3 2 1 0 5 Aug 68(12) 1 1 6 2 3 1 2 1 0 2 1 128 91 204 101 90 28 59 53 14 126 669 _2'7‘ 12' "2'5 "II T "3' "'6‘ "6' "2' "'1"7' 170' Total sub- division weight 4.70 7.58 7.28 9.18 11.25 9.33 9.83 8.83 7 7.41 5.57 Sleeves Long Long, Issue WE_Sleeve1ess Short No Cuff Cuff Bell Puffed Rollup Jan 66 (1) 2 7 7 4 0 0 0 Mar 66 (2) 1 4 5 6 2 0 2 May 66 (3) 15 2 1 2 0 0 0 Aug 66 (4) 1 3 7 8 1 O 0 Jan 67 (5) 4 5 4 7 0 0 0 Mar 67 (6) 8 5 0 4 2 1 0 May 67 (7) 11 3 2 2 2 0 0 Aug 67 (8) 0 4 10 5 0 1 0 Jan 68 (9) 7 7 2 1 0 2 1 Mar 68 (10) 4 4 3 5 0 1 3 May 68 (ll) 3 0 3 12 0 2 0 Aug 68 (12) 0 0 10 10 0 0 0 331 244 363 478 34 64 43 "56 "II’ '"54 ‘"60 '"7 '"7 '"6 Total sub- division weight 5.91 5.54 6.72 7.96 4.85 9.14 7.16 "‘7.1111.911111111111111)In“