A CONTENT ANALYSIS or THE FASHION
MAGAZINES RACES AND VOGUE-:9 ». ‘
JUNE mo — SUNE 1971

Thesis for fhe degree" of MA , -
MICHIGAN - STATE UNIVERSETY   '
SUSAN BETH TAGGART; ]
1977 '

l. .-

 

 

 

 

 

 

,ABSTRACT
A CONTENT ANALYSIS OF THE FASHION
MAGAZINES RAGS AND VOGUE
JUNE 1970 - JUNE 1971
by

Susan Beth Taggart

The purpose of this study was to compare and contrast beauty
as represented in two fashion magazines. In particular the research-
er examined two types of magazines geared towards specific groups
of people, Bags the hippies and Eggug_the establishment.

The research was divided into two main sections, the Descriptive

 

Analysis and the Article/Regular Feature Analysis. The Descriptive
analysis examined four randomly selected Egggg_and four_§ag§_magazines
in terms of a (1) general description, (2) graphics, (3) layout, and
(4) textual design. This section indicated an unconventional method
in Eflfifi journalism and Egggg_as a business oriented publication.

The samples ' for the Article/Regular Feature Analysis was
composed of one year of XQBEE and Eggs, June 1970 - June 1971, in
which only those articles and regular features relating to fashion
were selected for analysis. From this list of articles and regular
features, the six most commonly emphasized subjects were: cosmetics,
perfume,health products/exercises,body,hair, and clothing. Break-
downs of the six categories were then tabulated as subheadings ac-
according to specific subjects. Randomly selected categorical sub-
headings were chosen from each of the six categories and analyzed

in terms of methods and/or products used in maintaining or achieving

beauty.

Susan Beth Taggart

ii

It was concluded that within the period from June 1970 to
June 1971 only two of the seven categories (hair and cosmetics)_
indicated a difference in the way beauty was maintained or achieved
between figg§_and Egggg, The remaining categories indicated little
or no difference in the methods and/or products used in maintaining
or achieving beauty. From the examination of Eag§_and Egggg, the
findings did not totally support the hypothesis: A comparison and
contrast of beauty represented in two contrasting fashion magazines

will indicated a difference in the means of achieving beauty.

A CONTENT ANALYSIS OF THE FASHION
MAGAZINES RAGS AND VOGUE
JUNE 1970 - JUNE 1971

by

Susan Beth Taggart

A THESIS

Submitted to
Michigan State University
in partial fulfillment of the requirments
' for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Human Environment and Design

1977

ACKNOWLEGMENTS

This thesis was written with the assistance of many people. The
researcher especially would like to thank her committee members Dr.
Joanne Eicher for her understanding, encouragement, and professional
insite throughout the study; Dr.Ann Slocum for her assistance and in-
valuable opinions and suggestions; Dr.Denton Mbrrison for his sug-
gestions and willingness to participate on the researcher's committee.

The researcher would also like to extend her sincere appreciation
to those people outside her field of interest. To Mary Davis for her
assistance in editing;to the researchers' fellow graduate students
who made the "sometimes" impossible seem worthwhile, and finally to
the researcher's parents Virginia E.Taggart and in the memory of
Orval E.Taggart for their love and guidance throughout her educational

career 0

iii

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTIONOOOO ..... O.COO...O...00.0.0000...OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOQQ 1

REVIEWOFLITERATURE...coo000000000000oooooooooooooooooooooooono. 3

SchultureSooooooooooococoo-00.00.000.000.000.00.000.00... 3
Hippie as Deviating Subculture............................ 5

STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM...................... ....... ...... ..... . 14

Beauty as an Element of Fashion Inversion................. 14
Hypothesis................................................ 15
Definition................................................ 15
Categories................................................ 15
Assumptions............................................... 17

:‘ETHODOLOGYooooooo00000000000009.oo.ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 18
Content Analysis as a Research Technique.................. 18

Use of Content Analysis in this Study..................... 21
Instruments and Procedures................................ 22

DESCRIPTIVE ANALYSISOI...0.00.00...00.0.0000...OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 29

ARTICLE/REGULAR FEATURE ANALYSIS................................. 41

Data C011eCtiono O O O O I O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O I O O O O O O O O O O O O 41
Analysis Procedure....... ......... .... ...... . ...... . ..... . 48
FindingSOOOOOOOOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO...0.0.0....OI. 48

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION................................ ....... .... 6O

APPENDICESOOOOOOOOOOO0.0.000...0......0.0...OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO0.0. 65

Appendix I: Lists ofall articles and regular features for
June 1970 to June 1971: Vogue................. 65
Appendix II: Lists of all articles and regular features
for June 1970 to June 1971: Rag .............. 76
Appendix III: Article and regular feature references in
Rags and Vogue.............................. 82

iv

APPENDICES con't ' PAGE

 

Appendix IV: List of juror responses to the values in
Rags and Vogue................................ 83
Appendix V: Rags and Vogue acknowledgements................ 85
Appendix VI: Magazine examples of Rag ..................... 87
Appendix VII: Magazine examples of Vogue................... 90
Appendix VIII: Example of the new Rags, M§,magazine
May 1971.................................... 94

BIBLImRAPHYOOOOOOOIOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO....00...OOOOOOOOOOOIOOOOOOOOI. 96

LIST OF TABLES

TABLE PAGE

 

1. Length of issues of Rags and Vogue including covers.......... 30
2. Comparison of Content and Advertisements: Rags ..... ... ...... . 33

3. Comparison of Content and Advertisements: Vogue.............. 34

4. Content Types: Regular Features — §§g_... ...... ... ..... . ..... 36
5. Content Types: Regular Features - Vogue............... ....... 36
6. Subject Classification of Content: §§g§_ ...... ..... ..... ...... 37
7. Subject Classification of Content: EEEEEE ..................... 38
8. Article and Regular Feature Subject Classification:

R§g§_and Egggg................... ....... ......... ............ 42
9. Subheading Frequency Count.............................. ...... 49
10.Hair Care Comparison: Egggg_and §§£L3° ........ . ............... 51
11.Cosmetics: Application Comparison - Egggg and Bags ............ 53
12.Health Food Products Comparison - Vgggg_and Rags’ ...... . ....... 58

vi

INTRODUCTION

During the 1960's American youth began a new type of question-
ing of societal values. They found especially questionable the
promises that successful careers would lead to lives of personal

satisfaction and meaning. Keniston, in The Uncommitted, suggests that

 

the hippie movement typified the rejection of such Ubasic assumptions
and traditional values of American society " (Keniston, 1965,p.78). The
collective behavior of the hippies became an overt effort to redefine
society's values according to hippie symbols.

No longer were hippies tied to family values; they sought a
life liberated from past generations and familial‘identity.1 As they
searched for their own mass identity, they assumed the atypical dress
and ornamentation soon known as characteristic of them and their
protest of social order. Klapp refers to this phenomenon as their
"ego-screaming" (Klapp, 1969,p.vii) and Reich describes their clothes
as representative of the "values of personal expression in dress and
freedom from the forced external standards" (Reich, 1970,p.301). In
other words, the hippies separation of themselves from the establishment
was symbolized by the clothes which came to set a precedent in American
fashion. Contrary to prior youth groups, i.e. beatniks, mods, rockers,
the hippies of the 1960's were to have large impact on national and

international dress.

 

1

Refer to Chapter III,page 15-16 for the definitions of hippies and
and establishment.

Despite this massive fashion influence, there is little
formal reserach studying the nature and symbolism of hippie dreSs.
Most research instead touches on such aspects as subcultural adoles-
cent deveIOpment and music. An exception is Susan Sweatt's thesis, Ihg_

Role 2f_Dress in_the Hip-Subculture: 1966 - 1970, a sociological

 

interpretation of hippie behavior in relation to dress. It is the
purpose of this research to compare and contrast beauty, in relation

to the hippie magazine Rags and the establishment magazine Vogue.

Chapter-I

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

In their studies of the hippie movement of the 1960's many
authors use the terms "counter-culture and subculture" synonymously.
For example, Rosak refers to the youth movement as a counter culture

in the title The Making 9£_a_Counter-Culture (Rosak, 1969), and

 

 

Richard Flacks in the text of "Social and Cultural Meanings of Student
Revolt" refers to hippies as a counter culture in one paragraph and
subculture in the next (Flacks, 1972,p.325-326). A counter-culture
denotes the complete opposite of the dominant population; a subcul-
ture suggests smaller groups which fit under the wing of the larger
culture. _-

This examination of hippis values of the 1960's explores the
hippies movement as a specifically deviant subculture. It draws from

William A.Rushings introductory statement to Deviant Behavior and Social

 

'Processes, naming three aspects of social norms; patterns of behavior,
their normative or moral quality, and the sanction or repudiation which
they elicit (Rushing, 1971,p.l-9).

The study is divided into three main parts. Part I reviews
Rushings three levels of social norms and norm violators as symbolized
by dress; Part II applies the same set of Rushings three levels to
general values of the youth movement in the 1960's; Part III correlates

and summarizes major points.

PART _I_

What constitutes the normal behavior in society is dictated by
the norms of the dominant group. A norm refers to a specific patter,
mode, or standard regarded as typical. In defining deviance Rushings
presents three levels of social norms. A discussion of these levels

follows below.

Patterns g£_Behavior

Socialization into a culture requires acceptance and internali-
zations of "behavior and attitudes...characteristics of most people of a
population" (Rushings, 1971,p.2). This process begins in childhood, when
in American society,for example, we teach our children modesty by
covering the sexual parts of the body; eXposre of the body is indecent
and immodest and violates the social norms. A subculture begins to

evolve when a group violates such a concept of proper conduct. Rushings

refers to these individuals as "norm violators" (Rushings, 1971,p.4-5).

 

Normative 9£_Moral Quality;

Rushings second level of social norms considers the civic morality
of the normative (Rushings, 1971,p.2). Even though our society has
become more liberal, we still do not accept physical exposure in public
places, and our society dictates by imposing laws against "indecent"
exposure. Contemporary "streaking" illustrates violation of such a
societal decency code.

Sanctions g£_Coercive Reactions

 

Rushings third level is concerned with the consequences of

societal sanctions or rejection of deviation from the norms (Rushings,

1971,p.2). In search of social sanctions, individuals with the same
beliefs gravitate toward each other. When the law calls nakedness
indecentpeople may enter a nudist colony where they do not violate their
own law. A subculture arises because the new groups members do not care
for the standards imposed by the dominant population (Rushings, 1971,
p.9).; a nudist camp's conception of modesty and decency differs from
that of society in general.

In the first section the researcher illustrates the role of
clothing in social deviance. In Part II the focus is on dress as indi-
cative of the hippies and their subculture of deviance from the estab-
lished values of American societyI[Ehe_change in the conventional style
\of dress in the 1960's was a reflection of this subculure's values,

a style rebellion illustrating a large group of young adults reacting

against visible values of American lifestyle]

1
,_.._..1

PART II.

Patterns gf_Behavior.
[iéuring the 1960's some youth began to question the values of
American society, especially those traditional means to a life of per-

sonal satisfaction and meanin . Keniston, in his work The Uncommitted,

 

suggests that the hippie movement was the rejection of the "basic
assumption and traditional values of American society" (Keniston, 1965,
p.78). The basis for the growth of the hippie subculture may also be
called a re-examination of these values. ,

Values are modes of organizing and conducting meaningful invested
pattern principles that guide human action. According to Robin M.

William,jr. conducive social values are (1) essental to the welfare

of a collectivity taken as a whole, (2) constitute models or goals

of personal behavior in social interaction, and (3) common to the
members of a given aggregate (Williams 1952,p.375). Values should

not be confused, however, with attitudes. According to Rokeach,
attitudes are the "organization of several beliefs focused on a specific
object (physical or social, concrete or abstract) or situation, pre-
disposing one to respond in some preferential manner" (Rokeach, 1968,
p.16). Values, as modes of conduct, become internalized consciously
or unconsciously; essentially they are standards or criteria "guiding
actions for developing and maintaining attitudes toward relevant
objects and situations" (Rokeach, 1968,p.16).

Rokeach also presents the concepts of "instrumental and ter-
minal values". Instrumental values specifically refer to "modes of
conduct personally and socially preferable," terminal values are
personally meaningful, eigl, salvation and peace. The next value

concept Rokeach presents is hierarchial structures which suggests rank—

 

ing values, placing the most important value first. Even when values
are ranked, some situations may activate a conflict between personal
fulfillment or prestige (Rokeach, 1968,p.17).
5/The American establishment (the dominant population) dictates and
p,
maintains the values of society in generalngs smaller groups, the
hippies, however, began to develop their Sbn set of values. By reacting
against society's traditional values, the hippies according to Rushings
definition, became norm violators; their new subculture based on

rejection.

The specific values opposed by the hippies were those of affluence,

success, conformity, and competition. Affluence was viewed as material
wealth and status; success was a good job and/or comfortable homes;
conformity was rules and regulations; competition was striving against
others for superiority. The hippies saw no justification of these
values except as a way to obtain the approval and correct image from
others in society (Reich, 1972,p.163). To them, the establishment values
were hollow, lacking in personal satisfaction and meaning. If values
justify the position of the group, then people will tend to group
together with others holding values similar to their own (Rokeach,
1966,p.l).
The new hippie values were: (1) freedom from social obligations
that surpressed personal needs of expression and search (Partridge, 1973,
p.29), (2) the personal satisfaction of geniune concern with inner
values rather than those dictated by the establishment, (3) retreat
from competition, the obligation to compete with others, and (4) rejec-
tion of an affluent society's progressing establishment of values
(Partridge, 1973,p.30). Many Americans are not able to enjoy their values
until they have money. For example, to own the expensive new home de-
noting success, one must plan and save for future attainment. In contrast,
the hippies believed they did not have to save today to obtain happiness
tomorrow. The emergence of these four hippie values fulfilled their
need to compensate for flaws in the traditional American way of life.
According to authorities, the development of new youth values
in the 1960's was due to (1) the culmination of frustrations during
childhood, and (2) the values society imposed upon youth as young

adults (Erickson, 1968; Keniston, 1965; Reich, 1972). In the value/

conflict theory, Nanette Davis presents the social and professional
conditions influencing the formation of new ideas (Davis, 197,p.128).
Two of the five social influences will be used to examine the change
of values during adolescence and reflect the development of a deviant

youth subculture in the 1960's.

Changes in values may emerge from existing ideology, philosophy, science,

 

 

(_)_I_.'_ common sense.

 

Clues to the value changes of youth of the 1960's can be found
in examination of family patterns and childrearing practices. Without
appropriate values during adolescence identities do not develop. Roger
Aubrey defines adolescence as a transitional period between childhood
and adulthood (Aubrey, 1973,p.26). In American society, adolescence is
also a period when juvenile traditions and attitudes no longer applies;
they become classified as inappropriate and immature (Aubrey, 1973,p.18).

The problems of arriving at a sense of identity in adolescence
is referred to by Ruth Benedict as a discontinuity (Johnson, 1969,p.38).
The youth is torn between the role of adult and of child. As a
child he is denied responsibility, then later as a adolescent he is
thrust into almost total responsibility (Johnson, 1969,p.38). This con-
flict in roles is often the beginning of an identity crisis and pro-
bably a source of adolescent discontent.

Modern industrial society exacerbates the problems of the formation
of adolescent identities, and as Erikson says, it is in these societies'
that youth groups tend to organize (Erikson, 1973,p.31). The values of
grandparents and parents became irrelevant to the fast changing pace of

society. Traditionally, adult identity is not problematic when slower

paced changes in society permitted elders to transmit accummulated past
experiences to their off-spring. Values of grandparents and elders re-
mained constant and represented the framework of adult life for
generation. By the 1960's however, values could no longer keep pace
with the social and technological changes or urban society. The values
of generations were no longer viable in the raising of children, and

to compensate for the resulting "lack of formal socialization into
adulthood by parents, the youth began to turn to one another in making
the transition to adulthood" (Flacks, 1972,p.49).

In the U.S. the development of the peer group represented
transition from adolescence to adulthood which enable youths to "acquire
experiences and skills that families and other institutions ignored
or were inadequate to answer" (Flacks, 1971,p.50). It became inevit-
able that massive groups of youth people would band together to solve
their unanswered problems of transition from childhood. As Reich
stated, "the more the older generation rejected the new youth values,

the larger the hippie fraternity grew" (Reich, 1972,p.24).

Ideas are shaped £g_answer social problems.

 

 

The develOpment of the hippie subculture sought to answer the
question of "how to live in and with a technological society, and what
mind and what way of life can preserve man's humanity and his very
existence against the domination of the forces he created"(Reich, 1972,
p.16). These were the questions the hippie began discovering answers to,
the renewal of life that carried the hope of restoring us (Americans)
to our sources and ourselves" (Reich, 1972,p.16).

Many exhibited their feelings by massive war demonstrations

10

buring draft cards, or fleeing the country to avoid the draft. In the
Greening 9f_America Reich argues that the development of the Corporate
State became so powerful that it was indifferent to human needs (Reich,
1972,p.92). For example, the millions of dollars in advanced techno-
logical weapons spent in Viet Nam to destroy human life and environment;
an unjustified war and the antithesis of hippie values for all those

youths opposed to war.

Normative 9£_Moral Qpalipy: Level Two

In the first section of this chapter, patterns of behavior dealt
with youth and a change in their values. Deviating from.society's tra-
ditional values labeled the youth as norm violators. Dissatisfied with
American society the youth formulated another group supporting his or
her way of life.

The property of normative or moral quality is, according to
Rushings, not only a pattern of behavior, but a "morally prescribed
behavior" (Rushings, 1971,p.2). To wear conventional dress is a morally
prescribed behavior. Deviating from society's idea of proper dress
creates norm violators.

EThe style rebellion of the 1970's was symbolic hippie protest.
New modes of dress2 were a way to reject the values of the establish-

ment. Hippie dress denied the importance of hierarchy, status, authority,

position, and competition (Reich, 1972,p.256). Their clothing denied

~..

/
everything the establishment stood for. f

.....-

Hippie dress did not adhere to society's morally prescribed

 

2
Dress refers to all aspects of an individuals personal appearance.

11

behavior. Instead, they dressed to reject society's prevailing "good
taste". The youth inititated new types of clothing to express what
best represented themselves. Hippie dress expressed freedom; freedom
to do anything he or she wanted. To the hippies, clothing was not a
mask but an expression of the inner self. One could add anything he

or she wanted to express what was felt at the time (Reich, 1972,p.254).
For example, decorative stitching, patches, or even tie dye were just
a few of the way hippies could express themselves.

,The establishment dress, on the other hand,did not express any-
thing about the real person as the hippies viewed it. People were merely
acting out roles for society to indicate that he or she was conforming
to society's norms. Establishment dress was a mask covering the inner
self.

To the hippies, there was not need for a complete change of
clothes for every occasion. Men did not need a business suit for work
and a leisure suit for informal gatherings; women did not need a new
outfit for every occasion. The hippie felt that the same person was
doing each of his or her daily activity. People act out roles, not the '
clothes. As a person, one does not change from activity to activity. Since
people do not change, the same clothes can be used for every imaginable
activity (Flacks, 1971,p.66).

Values were not only reflected in the new styles of hippie
clothing but also in their general appearance. The hippies developed a
new look that was ~shocking to society. Establishment appearance was
clean and sober, typical of establishment values. The hippies 1960 dress

and appearance became dirty and ragged, violating society's ethics. The

12

idea of developing a new set of clothing symbols was totally rejected
by society. Long hair, especially on men, dismayed parents, teachers,

barbers, and even public health authorities.

Sanctions 9£_Coercive Reactions: Level Three

 

 

Sanctions or coercive reactions resulted when the hippies de-
viated from the norms of soCiety. Because of the new dress symbolism,
the hippie subculture became the target of verbal insults, physical
abuse, and discrimination in many communities. The media classed hip-
pie dress as "immoral, illicit, and indicative of a degenerate behavior”
(Flacks, 1972,p.67). Billboards in upstate New York read "Keep America
Beautifu1,Take a Bath." Restaurants even discriminated against the
hippies by posting signs as "Hippies not served here" (Brown, 1972,
p.182). As Dan Wakefield stated in his article "The War at Home,"
the hippies were stamped‘as "un-American which means not practiced
by the majority itself" (wakefield, 1969,p.119—124){{Members of American
society were particularly shocked by male defiance of conventional
dress. Long hair, dirty blue jeans, and t-shirts, for example, inititated
a blurring of the sexes. Everyone (male or female) basically wore the

~ ,1
same thing and in some instances looked the same.1
,)

PART III

Summary

The objective of this chapter was to discuss the hippies as a
particular deviant subculture. A subculture may arise because the group

members do not care for the standards imposed by the broader society.

13

To illustrate the hippies as a deviant subculture violating the
traditional values of society, the researcher presented three levels
of social norms.

Patterns of behavior are those behaviors characteristic of a '/1
dominant population. The dominant population was referred to as the
establishment having particular values characteristic of their group.

The hippies deviated from the establishment values of society by

initiating their own values. As Rushings states "deviating from the j

“...,J

dominant conception of proper conduct is norm violation."

Normativeor moral quality represents a morally presecribed be-
havior. Hippie dress was a symbolic protest against the meaningless
values of the establishment, a type of dress not indicative of the
establishment

Sanctions of coercive reactions are those results from deviating
from the prevailing norms of society. In this case, the hippies were

ridiculed and discriminated against because of their appearance.

Chapter.II

STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM

The theoretical basis for this research is drawn from Simmel's
interpretation of fashion as a form of individual or group imitation.
The researcher applies Simmel's fashion theory to the study of beauty

in fashion inversion, i.e., reaction against existing fashion.

 

Beauty §§_ap_Element 9f_Fashion Inversion

According to Simmel, fashion inversion "satisfies the demand for
social adaptation; furthermore fashion signifies the group and excuses
the outsiders" (Simmel, 1957,p.543). While fashion inversion "satisfies
the demand for social adaptation," fashion also "satisfies the need of
differentiation, the tendency towards dissimilarity and the desire for
change and contrast" (Simmel, 1957,p.546). According to Nystrom's
"Trickle-Down Theory" fashion is initiated by the upper class. Once the
fashion imitation is complete, the cycle begins again with the upper class
initiating a new form in order to remain unique and distinguishable.
Simmel introduces those individuals who are in conflict with such cycli-
cle fashion as "telelogical individuals". In other words, their use of
fashion illustrates the social phenomenon of change. The beatniks of the
50's and the hippies of the 60's constituted large classes of young adults
departing from what was considered accepted dress. Their conscious discard
of establishment fashion agrees with Simmel's theory that one reason for

deviation from fashion is fear of loss of individuality (Simmel, 1957,p.549).

14

15

Particularly relevant to any examination of dress is the re-
lationship between standards of beauty and the actuality of the human
body. Examination of historical costume as well as present day dress
can indicate past and present ideals of beauty--how costume lines do
or do not follow the lines of the body (Roach and Eicher, 1970,p.98).

In American society beauty includes concepts of ideal body pr0portions.
When an individual does not have them modification can be achieved.

An oversized body can be hidden in loose fitting garments, body contours
can be altered by constrictive or padded garments, and cosmetics can
artifically hide facial flaws and create illusions (Roach and Eicher,
1970,p.103). In the U.S. such ideals are characteristic of the estab-
lishment, but study indicates that subcultural groups also have their
ideals of beauty.

The objective of this study is as follows:

ObjeCtive: To compare and contrast how beauty is exemplified as
obtainable by various methods and/or products in two contrasting
magazines, Rag§_and Vggpg,

In conjunction with the objective, the following guiding hypothesis
was formulated:

Hypothesis: A comparison and contrast of beauty represented in
two contrasting fashion magazines will indicate a difference in the means
of achieving beauty. (These magazines are fully identified in Chapter IV,

Methodology).

Definition pf Terms

 

Establishment: any American, youth, or adult, who followed the

prescribed norms and values of the dominant group.

16

Hippie: any American youth, generally under thirty years of age,
who expressed,in various verbal and non-verbal ways including modes of
dress, opposition to the prescribed norms of the dominant social group.

Valpe: a single belief that guides actions and judgements beyond
immediate goals to an ultimate end state of existence. Values are guides
for developing and maintaining attitudes toward relevant objects, and
situations (Rokeach, 1968,p.16).

Article: is considered over two paragraphs in length and did not
appear in every issue.

Regular Features: appeared in almost every issue of the magazine.
Regular features included Rags; "Supermarket, Drugstore" for example;

Vogue: "Beauty Checkout, Vogues Ready Beauty".

Categories

 

Body Adorning

 

(1). Clothing: items of apparel which cover the body and recon-
struct, embellish, and emphasize, or de-emphasize certain portions of
the body.

(2). Body: adorning and beautifying the body skin, hair, nails,
teeth, etc..

(3). Perfume: adds to the body elusiveness; scents giVe many
impressions from sensuality to sexuality or sexuality to masculinity.

Bodijaintenance

 

(1).Health Products/Exercises: helps to maintain the ideal shape
considered beautiful.

Facial and Head Adorning

 

(1). Hair: wigs/false hair creates additional hair on the head

17

and face whenever desired; styling reconstructs the hair into the
current fashion; coloring improves natural color whenever desired.

(2). Cosmetics: supplies the user with a vast number of methods
to color, hide, and draw interest to the face and body. Cosmetics

further alter facial shapes, included in cosmetics is plastic surgery.

Assumptions

 

(1). There are distinctive characteristics of hippie dress.

(2). There are distinctive characteristics of establishmnet dress.

(3). Hippie dress was the accepted group dress for hippies in the
1960's.

(4). Establishment dress was the accepted group dress for members
of the establishment in the 1960's.

(5). Rag§_was a hippie oriented magazine and Eggpg_an establish-
ment oriented magazine.

(6). A content analysis of R§g§_magazine can reflect hippie values
of the late 1960's, early 1970's.

(7). A content analysis of Vogue can reflect the establishment

values of the late 1960's, early 1970's.

ReSearch Limitations

 

(1). Study was limited to a period of only one year due to the
publishing structure of‘R§g§3

(2).No known hippie exists to validate whether or not Rag§_was
geared to the hippies.

(3). XQEEE is geared only to women particularly to the wealthy;

Rags is geared to both men and women and not to any particular financial

class.

Chapter III

 

METHODOLOGY

This chapter defines and discusses content analysis and its use
as a research technique. According to Ithiel Pool, in the field of
sociology the research method of content analysis, is often neglected,
there being no effective method to predict sociological "attitudes,
values, or ideologies as expressed in manifest symbols...textbooks
celebrate the fact of man's symbolic possibilities in chapters on cul-
ture and socialization and then the consequences are systematically
ignored" (Pool, 1959,p.56). As stated in the previous chapter, the pre-
sent method of content analysis was chosen to study the content of two
fashion magazines, R§g§_and 22822: The purpose of this research was to
compare and contrast the methods proposed for attainment of beauty by
both publications. This chapter further explains how the method of con-

tent analysis is applied in this chapter.

Content Analysis §§_§_Research Technique

 

 

Unlike observation of historical or experimental research, the
method of content analysis is interested primarily in the characteristics
of the content itself. According to Budd, Thorp, and Donohew, this
method of scientific research may be applied to any book, magazine,
individual story, or article (Budd, Thorp, and Donohew, 1967,p.18). These
authors define content analysis as a "systematic technique for analyzing

message content and message handling...it is a tool for observing and

18

19

analyzing the overtcommunication behavior of selected commmunicators"
(Budd, et.al., 1967,p.2). Another and perhaps the most generally ac-
cepted definition of content analysis is Bernard Berelson's in Content

Analysis ip_Communication Research. According to Berelson's "a content

 

analysis is a research technique for the objective, systematic, and
quantitative description of the manifest content of communication"
(Berelson, 1952,p.18). He continues to make three important assumptions
in dealing with content analysis: (1) interpretations about the relation-
ship between intent and content or between content and effect, implying
that content analysis can reveal purpose, motive, etc.; (2) the actual
Study is meaningful, i.e., the categorical meanings asserted by the com-
municator and understood by the audience; (3) meaningful quantitative
description of communication content(Berelson, 1952,p.18-20).

The uses of content analysis, according to Berelson, are classi-

fied under the major headings of characteristics in communication con-

 

tent (a description of the content with focus on substance and/or form),
the causes of the content (characteristics of communicators that have a
direct influence on the content), and the pgpsgqupgggflgflcontent.(re-
flection of the values, attitudes, and interests of groups from the con—
tent produced them) (Berelson, l952,p.29,72,90). The present research
deals with a combination of the first and third headings, characteristics
(Chapter IV) and consequences (Chapter V) of the content of R§g§_and

The key is successful content analysis research is in the valid-'
ity and reliability of the systematic, quantitative,and qualitative
techniques used. Each of these aspects is discussed in the following

paragraphs.

20

Systematic

 

"Scientific research is a systematic, controlled, empirical, and
critical investigation of hypothetical prepositions about the presumed
relations among natural phenomena" (Budd, et al., 1967,p.14). Simply
stated, systematic research follows a specific plan developed by the
investigator. The research includes a researchable problem, a method
of date collections, and a description of procedure and analysis (Budd,
et al., 1967,p.15).

Qpantitative and Qualitative

 

In quantitative research the analyst is concerned with obtaining
descriptive data on content variables. A quantitative approach according
to Pool, offers precise, objective, and reliable observation about the
frequency of a particular content variable (Pool, 1959,p.9). 0n the other
hand the qualitative approach is concerned with inferences based on the
frequency of content features. Categorizing, the analyst reads the material,
records the material, and finally makes his content assessment. This
study utilizes a combination of quantitative and qualitative research.
While an adequate amount of material is needed for a reliable and valid
study, the researcher also gives careful categorical consideration in the
descriptive and article/regular feature analysis chapters.

Budd, et a1. define a reliable study as one enabling accurate
replication by other researchers (Budd, et al., 1967,p.15). This includes
Berelson's requirements of objectivity which stipulates that "categories
be defined so precisely that different analysts can apply them to the
same body of content and secure the same results" (Berelson, 1952,p.16).
Since reliability is considered a problem, the researcher must decide a
level of reliability to satisfy himself as well as to satisfy research in

general.

21

To fulfill the qualifications for an accurate study, appropriate
attention should be given to validity; in particular to the extent that
the instruments measure what they purport. Budd, et a1, state:

...Whoever is concerned with scientific in-
quiry and not mere purposeless exercises,
must give considerable attention to methods
of validation...Validity may be assessed by
one or more methods among them jury, known
group, independent, and construct validity.
(Budd, et al. 1967,p.69).

The first method assuring validity, jury, entails the use of
judges, experts in the field, to assess particular parts of the metho-
dology. Similar to the jury method of the known group, uses known
attitudes and characteristics of a group rather than a jury's expertise.
The independent criterion, considered very difficult although not en-
tirely impossible, is a process in refining research techniques and
weighing one against the other, for example, comparing results from two
different methods. The final method is construct validity. The researcher
has given some attention‘to theories and in the course of this study has

constructed hypotheses and used statistical tests to determine if

logical relationships are supported (Budd, et al. 1967;p.67-70).

Use gf_Content Analysis ip_this Study

 

 

Reviewing the methodology used in other disciplines helped to
delineate the relationship between the present study and designs used
by other researchers. While all research methods were not applicable to
this study, each supplied helpful insight to content analysis methodology.
Content analysis research specifically used in this study is cited within
the text; others are listed in the bibliography.

Outside the field of clothing and textiles examples of content

analysis reviewed was in such disciplines as journalism, communication,

22

philosophy, and education. Review of research in these fields proved
invaluable in comprehending the wide variety of uses of content analysis.
The studies reviewed offered helpful insight into the development of
content analysis methodology, each researcher investigated their pro-
blem starting with a unique set of data and developing a unique
methodology.

The theses of William Garber and James Banks3 offered the

greatest insight applicable to this study. Garber divides his research

into essentially three parts. Part I is a descriptive analysis of the

 

fundamentalist magazine gig, and the modernist magazine motive, (sic).
Garber's analysis consisted primarily of a frequency count and an analysis
of content types. In a descriptive analysis, he deals with the content
units as a whole: the whole article, editorial, or advertisement
rather than isolated sections of an article, for example. Parts II and
III are a more detailed account of the editorials and issues.

Banks's dissertation on Negro and race relations applies the

procedure of thematic analysis, a method analyzing the major theme ideas

 

within each sentence. Each theme idea is categorized under eleven theme
categories. To ascertain the validity of each category the jury method

was utilized.

Instruments and Procedures

 

Magazines Analyzed: Vogue and Rags

 

To compare and contrast the value of beauty between the hippies

 

\//3Carber, William Edward. A Content Analysis pf Two Religious Orien-
ted Magazines for College Students. Thesis: Journalism. Michigan State
University. 1960

4
Banks,Robert. A_Content Analysis gf_Elementary American History
Textbooks: The Treatment 9£_the Negro and Race Relations. Dissertation:
Psychology. Michigan State University. 1969.

 

 

 

 

 

 

23

and the establishment, the different fashion magazines, R§g§_and 22322
were selected. Since Egg§_is the only known underground fashion magazine,
the principal investigator had no choice but to select this particular
source. 22522) selected to represent the establishment is, if no longer
a trend setter, still well-known in the world of fashion. Since Vggpg
has been continuously published since 1893, and R§g§_only between June
1970 and June 1971, the thirteen issues of Rag§_determined which issues
of Vpgp@_would be utilized. Because of Eggpg's publishing structure,
there was a total of twenty issues, four published on a monthly basis,
sixteen published on a semi—monthly basis. Eggg§_was obtained for data
collection through the Purdue University Calumet Campus. Nine issues of
R§g§_ were obtained through private sources, and the remaining four is-
sues from the Library of Congress on microfilm.4

The time period involved was a period of rapid political change
in the United States. The early 1970's were a period of wage price
controls by the Nixon administration, the trial and conviction of Charles
Manson, and the court martial of Lt. William Calley, jr. for the My Lai
massacre. In fashion the largest single event was the downfall of the
mini. The midi was seen by some theorists as a revulsion against radical
youth values and endorsement of conservatism (Newsweek, 1969,Vo. 74,p.17).
Other fashion newsmakers were cosmetics for men and the introduction of

unisex fashion.

 

4

Vogue publishing dates: Vol.155 June 1970: Vol.156 July 1970, Aug.
1,1970,Aug.15,1970,Sept.1,1970,Sept.15,1970; Vol.156 (2) Oct.1,1970,0ct.15,
1970,Nov.1,1970,Nov.15,1970,Dec.1970; Vol.157 Jan.1971,Feb.1,1971,Feb.15,
1971,Mar.1,1971; Vol.(2) April 1,1971,April 15,1971, May 1971,June 1971.

Rags publishing dates: June 1970, July 1970, Aug.1970,Sept.1970,
0ct.1970,Nov.1970,Dec.1970,Jan.1971,Mar.1971,April 1971,May 1971,June 1971.

24

Methodological Procedure

 

To restate Budd, Thorp, and Donohew, researchers concerned with
scientific inquiry must not ignore validity (Budd, et al. 1967,p.69).
The methods of independent criterion and known group previously dis-
cussed in this chapter, proved insufficient to determine whether or not
Vggpg_and'Rag§_represented respective groups.

The known group utilizes attitudes and characteristics of a
particular group. The two groups studied in this research are the
establishment as represented by Vggpg) and the hippies as represented
by R§g§3ZWhile Vggpg, as previously stated, has been published since
1893 and is presently published on a semi~monthlylmonthly baSEEABEEE was
only published between June 1970 to June 1971 inclusive. Therefore,
known-group validity could only be used for Vpgpg_and not Regg, Estab-
lishing the validity of magazine representation of a defunct group is
virtually impossible. Independent criterion is a process of refining re-
search techniques. Since this study was not concerned with refining
research methods, the independent criterion would not be beneficial in
establishing the representativeness of R§g§_and Vpgp_.

Initially Eggs and Eggpg were chosen by jury method. Four profes—
sionals in the field of clothing and textiles believed that §§g§_repre-
sented the hippies and Vggpg_the establishment. Further analysis by the
principle investigator established the representativeness of Raga and
Eggpg by face validity. Face validity, a logical validation, is accomplished

in this study by descriptive analysis. The descriptive analysis, Chapter

 

IV, was utilized to examine the general description, graphics, lay-out,
and textual content. Chapter V specifically analyses the article and re-

gular features of Rags and Vogue.

25

Categpgy Selection

 

The choice of beauty was accomplished through a number of steps.
A jury, two professionals and one graduate student in the field of
clothing and textiles, and one professional in family ecology, was first
employed. The jury's purpose was to evaluate objectively any values re-
presented in R§g§_and Vggpg, After familiarizing themselves with the
magazines, each juror member was instructed to list the values on the
provided coding sheet along with a few descriptive words that helped de-
termine the value and the jurors definition of how the value was being
used. The jurors responses were tabulated as shown in appendix IV. This
tabulation gave an objective approach in finalizing the categories for
this research.

A sample test conducted by the principle investigator and one of
the committee members indicated a need to delimit the number of values.
With such a wide range of responses from the jurors, shown in appendix
IV, a complete and accurate comparison of Rag§_and Eggp§_for each of the
values could not be made. A total of six values (beauty, wealth, indivi—
duality, freedom of expression, fashion and sexual attractiveness) were
then selected for possible analyzation from the juror responses. These
six values were selected on the basis that they could be readily located
in both Eggpg_and g§g§_and then accurately analyzed. A further discussion
of the values by the researcher and committee members indicated a need to
still delimit the scope of the study to no more that three values. Those
selected were beauty, wealth, and sexual attractiveness. However, in
order to thoroughly investigate R§g§_and Eggpg, it was decided to fur—
ther delimit the study to one category, beauty. Beauty was ultimately
selected because of its relevance to both the hippies and establishment.

Values help to guide oneself in obtaining the desired end effect,

26

i.e., beauty. According to Rokeach, values are motivating "modes of
conduct and end states of existence" in which an individual personally
believes a certain mode of conduct is socially and personally preferable
rather than any alternative method (Rokeach, 1968,p.16). Values will

then justify the actions of an individual as well as help to compare one—
self to one another.

Beauty is a value assumed to be important to both the hippies
and establishment. The ultimate end results of achieving beauty may be the
same; however, the methods by which individuals obtain beauty may differ,
the means of which are justifyable to both groups.

Pertinent to the study was Roach and Eicher's examination of
beauty ideals cross-culturally and how these beauty ideals can be achieved
or maintained (Roach and Eicher, 1973,p.98). Particular to American society
are the beauty ideals of the hippies and establishment which can be achieved
through more specific means of (1) body adorning in clothing, body, and
perfume, (2) body maintenance of manipulating health products/exercises
and (3) facial and head adorning through manipulating hair and applying
cosmetics. .

To examine the means of achieving beauty, the original methodologi—
cal procedure was to utilize the thematic analysis as an approach to
examine specific words or sentences in written content. However, a pre-
test utilizing the thematic analysis technique in conjunction with the
jurors values responses proved to be unsatisfactory for the research. Due
to the peculiar form of Eggg journalism, analyzing isolating words and
sentences would insufficiently represent the magazine accurately. Instead
of examining isolated words and sentences, the researcher along with
two committee members decided that an analysis of an entire article/re-

gular feature would be more profitable and more accurate.

27

The research method consisted of analyzing matched Eggpg_and Rags
articles under the major headings of Body Adorning, Body Maintenance, and
Facial and Head Adorning. Those articles not matching were also examined
in relation to that particular magazines content emphasis. A more
specific explanation of the article/regular feature analysis is found

in Chapter VI.

Chapter IV

DESCRIPTIVE ANALYSIS

The four issues R§g§_and‘ypgp§_used for Descriptive Analysis
were randomly selected with each issue having equal opportunity for
analysis. Rpgg issues were: July 1970, number two; September 1970, num-
ber four; December 1970, number seven; April 1971, number twelve. ypgpg
issues were August 15,1970; November 15,1970; January 15,1971; February
15,1971. Following are descriptions of format and content of both
magazines according to general description, graphics, layout, and

textual content.

General Description

Measuring eight and one-half by eleven inches, R§g§_was an average
sized publication. The number pages per issue remained constant, with an
average of sixty-six pages as indicated in Table 1, page 30.

An unusually large magazine compared to most publications of to-
day, Eggpg measured nine and three-quarter inches by twelve and one-half
inches. This made Vpgpg_21% larger than R§g§_and 118% longer in total
pages. Table 1 shows Vpgpg_with an average of 144 pages per issue.

Two distinctive differences between Eggg and Vpgpg_were the covers
and the type of stock utilized. Printed on an uncoated inexpensive news-
print paper the distinct appearance of R§g§_covers indicated the politi-
cal or social emphasis in each issue. The covers were limited in color;
three issues used two colors; one issue used three; the inside of the

magazine contained no color. The limited use of colormay have been due

29

30

to the extravagant cost. The process of Rags binding consisted of a

5
"single gathering, saddle stitching, and then a final gathering: This
process is relatively inexpensive requiring little time in constructing

the magazine.

Table_l

Length of issues of Rags and Vogue including the inside covers

 

 

 

Rags Vogue
Month Page MOnth Page
July 1970 62 Aug.15,1970 140
Sept.1970 62 Nov.15,1970 183
Dec. 1970 79 Jan.15,1971 126
Apr. 1971 62 ' Feb.15,1971 130
265 pages 579 pages
mean 66.25 pages mean 144.75 pages

 

On the other hand, Vpgpg_covers were "patent bound", a process
composed of given amount of press signatures, gathered, glued, side-
stitched (reinforcing the backbone of the magazihe) andthentrimmed.6 A'
four-color printing process added to the affluenct tone of the magazine;
all issues contained the three basic colors: red, blue, yellow, and a
color for shading, black. The Vpgpg issues were printed on a high quality
coated stock. Anytime the four color process printing is employed a high

quality paper mustbe utilized to insure an accurate reproduction.of the

photograph.

 

5
Information supplied by the Rand-McNally publishing company.

6
Information supplied by the Rand-McNally publishing company.

31

Graphics

A typewriter style of print was used for most of the content
throughout Ragg, italicized print being used for captions and emphatic
expressions. For titles various ornamental types were used, each new
article displaying a new type of face. One consistent type face was used
for the titles or regular features, such as "Supermarket" or "Drugstore”
(See appendix V for examples of Rag§_regular features). -

The typography for Ragg advertisements was unique and creative.
Usually the hand drawn ads, shown in appendix V, indicative of the under-
ground press, appeared in the last few pages in small two by one and one-
half inch squares; regular printed advertising was spaced throughout the
magazine.

Vpgpg_also used a typewriter style of typography, set in varying
boldface topic sentences, off set paragraphs. Italicized print was utilized
in much of the same way as in Raggj but primarily in captions. Similarly
to Ragg, the titles of all articles were set in display forms of print.

The typography of Vpgpg's advertisements was very stylistic. Un-
like Rag§_any distinctive advertisement reflected the style of the adver-
tiser rather than the magazine. A good example of individual advertising

7
style may be seen in appendix V.

Layout

Three columns each two and one-quarter inches wide and of varying
length, were regularly used in Rag . The April 1971 issue was the only

exception, featuring a two column article. The layout of columns, illustra-

 

7

To equate the cost of printing, divide one-fourth into the news-
stand price. Therefore, the production cost of Rags was approximately
$ .15 and $ .25 for Vogue. Information supplied by the Rand-McNally pub-
lishing company, Hammond, Indiana.

32

tions, and photographs, was very systematic. Illustrations and photo—
graphs were set in accordance with the column and accompanied by copy;
photos filled a one-, two-, or three-column width. The only exception
was in the April 1971 issue where the photos were wider than the columns
in the article"Hair and the Law" (April 1971). In terms of photography
Rag§_was unique for fashion magazines; impromptu photos reflected people
as they really were rather than how editors thought they should be.
Vogues's layout was not as rigidly designed, from one and three
quarter inches to four inches wide, and unlike Raggg the photos and
illustrations were often wider than the copy. In terms of subject mat-
ter most of Eggpefs photography was of women modeling the latest fashion.
Even though the use of columns in Rag§_appeared to be more rigid than

in Vogue, both magazines were designed with apparent care.

Textual Content

 

This study divides textual consideration of Ragg into three sections,
and Vpgpg into three sections, as shown in Table 2 and 3. The researcher
defines content as any copy informing the public. Advertisements include
any c0py whose purpose is to sell a product for a business. However, re-
searcher found it necessary to combine content and advertisements in
some instances in Vpgpg_and Ragp, While Eggpg_and Rag§_often was describing
a fashion item, the magazine also quoted the price of the item as well as
stores carrying the item.

As can be seen in Table 2,_Rag§ emphasized articles more than ad—
vertisements. Whether or not the philosophy of underground publications
refutes standard advertising as indicative of the establishment, accord-
ing to Glessing (1970,p.15), underground publications were not uncommonly

stopped or terminated by unpaid bills (refer to appendix V for the

33

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34

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35
financial status of Rags). This was apparently not a problem for Vogue,

which dealt in fashion promotion rather than fashion per se.. Most
of Vpgpgfs fashion was featured directly in advertisements, or promoted
in a combination of text and advertisements.

In terms of specific text, five features appeared regularly in
every issue of Raga: "Letters" which were candid opinions from R§g§_
readers; "Drugstore", an informative feature on drugs, government re-
gulations, health, and new products; "On the Street", a melting pot of
diffferent articles ranging from everyday living to business and fashion;
"Signs", focusing on astrology; and "Dr.Eatgood," centering on food and
recipes. As can be seen in Table 4 three features were added to the April
issue, the last issue analyzed, perhaps an attempt to expand content and
readership.

"Vpgpgfs regular features were considerably different from those of
Rpgp, the major features centering on beauty and fashion. Essentially
"Vogue's Eye View" dealt_with current fashion and accessories. Photo-
graphy, with descriptive captions, made up the bulk of this feature.
Vpgpg's horoscope, unlike Rpg§_which emphasized love of people, com-
munication, and awareness, stressed social success, income and business
enterprises. "Beauty Checkout" centered on health, eating habits, the
newest in diet machines, and diet plans. "Vogue's Own Boutique" was full
of suggestions and observations about fashion. "Notebook" focused on
entertainment, auctions, balls, and dinner dances. This major feature
was directed to the elite and the places to which they travel. Travel,
movies, and books are featured in "Spotlight". Also, regularly in ypgpg_
was a Table of Contents, which was not true of Ragg, (Neither magazine

included any cartoons).

36
Table.£

Content Types: Regular Features

Rags

 

 

Regular Feature July'70 Sept.'70 Dec.'70 Apr.'71

 

page numbers of regular features

1. Dr. Eatgood ........ 58 58 59 48-50
2. Supermarket ........ 52-568 50-578 64-733 51-573
3. Letters to the

Editor..... ..... 1 1 1 2
4. Drugstore.......... 4 4 4 3-4
5. On the Street ...... 8-10 10-14 14-183/20—24 10-17
6. Signs. ...... . ...... 6 8-9 26 ---
7. Common Cents ....... --— 16 76 ---
8. Cosmic News ........ 7 '6 --- 6
9. Platters ........... --- --- --- 8-9
10.Show and Tell ...... --- —-- -—- 1
11.Media Messages ..... -—- --- --- 1
a

advertisements appear in conjunction with the regular features.

 

Tableué

-.-

Content Types: Regular Features
Vogue

 

 

Regular Feature Aug.15,'70 Nov.15,'70 Jan.15,'71 Feb.15'71

 

mVO‘U‘bLANp—a

page numbers of regular features

. Vogues Eye View..... 47 87 33 41
. Vogues Own Boutique.130-134 170-174 112-114 120-122
. Horoscope........... 43 83 27 33
. Beauty Checkout ..... 28 --- 12 12
. Notebook ...... ...... 32 72 18-19 22
. Spotlight........... 34-40 74-78 --- ---
. Men in Vogue... ..... 45 85 31 —--
. Vogues Ready Beauty. 24 178—179 17 25

 

37

A comparison of both magazines subjects and articles as listed
in Tables 6 and 7 permits more specific inferences concerning their
general outlooks and philosophies. As expected both magazines emphasized
body adornment/hair/fashion. However, the kind of fashion was quite dif-
ferent. Rag§_emphasized fashion items not worn by the establishment at
that time, Blue-jeans, or tie—dyed garments for example. _pgpg_projected
the elegant or "in' look for is readers. ypgpgfs fashion were less af-
fordable than Ragg; while Raga prices fluctuated from $2.00 to anywhere
into the $100 range, Vpgpgfs prices for fashion items usually began around
$100 and continued to rise.

Another distinction was the diversity of subjects. Rag§_dealt with

a limited range. The Rags editors especially steered away from anything

associated with the establishment, for example, big business:

Table_§

Subject Classification of Content:

 

 

 

-_ Rags
Subject July '70a Sept.'70a Dec370a' Apr.71a

1. arts and crafts......... 1 —-— 1 2
2. astrology. .............. 1 1 1 1
3. body adornment.......... 4 7 12 13
4. business....... ......... --- '1 1 1
5. business/fashion........ 1 1 3 3
6. entertainment...... ..... 3 4 3 2
7. fashion designers....... 2 -—- 2 2
8. health. ........... ...... 3 2 4 3
9. people.... .............. 3 --- 5 10
10. public opinion .......... —-- 1 1 1
11. religion... ............. --- --- 2 ---
12.science ................. --- --- 2 ---
a

The unit of content is the complete article, editorial,etc. that dis-
cusses the subject.

 

38

Table_Z

Subject Classification of Content:

 

 

 

Vogue
SUb - 1 b V b I b i b
ject Aug.15, 7O Nov.15, 70 Jan.15, 71 Feb.15, 71

1. architecture/

sculpture ...... 1 --- 2 2
2. art/crafts....... 1 1 3 l
3. astrology........ 1 1 —-— 1
4. beauty..... ..... . 3 2 4 9
5. body adornment/hair

fashion........ 10 9 10 5
6. business ..... .... --- 2 —-- 1
7. entertainment/

entertainers... 6 5 4 4
8. fashion designers 1 3 2 3
9: health ....... .... 2 1 2 2
10.1iterature....... 3 1 --— 2
11.movies........... 1 1 --- ---
12.people and fashion 2 5 —-- 1
l3.peotry........... --- --- 1 1
l4.romance ........ .. --- 1 2 2
15.travel ........... 1 2 2 ——-

b
The unit of content is the complete article, editorial,etc. that dis-
cusses the subject.

 

ngpg) unlike Rpgg, dealt with a wider range of subjects.!pgpg_
focused on people in the limelight, how to beautify oneself, the latest
beauty aids, diets, and'traveling. The overall distinction between the
two magazines other than the different approaches in content was that
Vpgpg was geared more to the individual than was Ragg.

The written content is often a clue to some of the philosophies
of a magazine. Both magazines were verbally descriptive, utilizing many
modifiers to flavor the content. Some typical expressions found in Rpg§_
were "down with the establishment", "new heads", "groovy", "here to lay

on you", "really in". Vogue, however, had a tendency to pick up terms

39
of the hippie subculture. Even though Vogue did not abound with direct

references to the hippie lingo, a few words did appear. For example,
"blue-jeans", "uniform the world", "feel easy", "Vogue's Spotlight:
Underground", "underground perfume", underground cologne", and "heady
shampoo". All three utilizations of the word "underground" are different.
This seems to indicate the conventional meaning of the word underground
had begun to change in the early 1970's. "Heady-shampoo" was found in

both Rags and Vogue and is probably a euphemism for a quality shampoo.

Conclusion

 

The philosophy of Ragg as a fashion magazine was to present any-
thing that "moved the creator and brought everyone smiles and joy"
(Ragg, June 1970,p.2). Based on the Descriptive/Analysis, the princi-
ple investigator believes that R§g§_did represent values and lifestyle
of the hippies since fashion, according to the editors, was a method of
self-expression, a freedom to do what one wanted. The editors also

" the near-

considered the magazine out of the ordinary in that Rags was
est thing to an underground fashion magazine, breaking the standard rules

right and left and in advice on dress" (The State Journal, Wed.Dec.9,

 

1970). Rag§_was geared to one particular addience, those interested in the
rapid change of American society. Each issue also devoted space to gen-
eral information, the drugstore, Dr.Eatgood, places of interest, and how
to make fun clothes. Finally, Rpgg devoted little to commercial adver-
tising. To financially sustain Rag§_each issue had one subscription blank
for reader convenience; some issues even had direct request to owners

of boutiques, stores not associated with the establishment, to sell the
magazine. Because of a lack of financial support, the magazine Ragg
ceased publication with the thirteenth issue.

In terms of purpose, audience, and economics structure, Vogue

4O

represented the establishment, those primarily interested in fashion.
The purpose is exemplified through the magazine's complete absorption
in fashion. Noted in the advertisements and content/advertisements the
(tifference between.§§g§_and ypgpg_was that(1) Eggpg's fashions were

Imore mass produced by a business, a factor indicative of the establishment

axui not the hippies, (2) financially Vogue's expenditures on color is

offF-set by a large circulation and many advertisements, and (3) essentially

Innsinesses seemed to support Vo ue's publication the most.
__iL__

Chapter.V

ARTICLE/REGULAR FEATURE
ANALYSIS

Data Collection

 

Prior to actual data analysis, lists of the writings from both
magazines, issue by issue, were organized in the order in which they
appeared (appendix I,II). To titles whose wording did not identify
content, brief descriptive labels were affixed. From these lists
articles pertaining to fashion were extracted (Table 8).8 A new
tabulation (see appendix III) of these articles (some shown as clas-
sified ads) according to their specific subject-matter was then com-
piled. The six most commonly emphasized, e.g. most frequent, proved
to be: cosmetics, perfume, health products/exercises, body, hair, and
clothing. When an article's subject matter pertained to more than one
of these headings, it was cross-listed. Breakdowns of the six cate-
gories were then tabulated as subheadings according to specific
relationship to subject. For example, subheadings of hair include: care,
hairstyling, coloring, wigs, and the politics of hair sytling (Table 8).
Retained for study were those subheadings treated by both magazines;
each of these was assigned a number according to its order of appearance
in the magazines. These numbered subheadings from which were drawn at

random, determined the order in which subheaded material would be

 

8 ,

Those regular features included in the analysis were Vogue (hair: wigs),
"Beauty Checkout", July 1970,p.12. Rags (cosmetics: care of skin)
"Drugstore", October 1970,p.2; Vogue (body: decoration) "Beauty Checkout",
June 1971,p.33; Rags (body: care of skin) "Drugstore", Aug.1970,p.4. Two
additional articles were also included: Vogue's "Fashion Forecast" and
Rags"Fashion Forecast: Mar.1971".

41

Table.§

Article and Feature
Subject Classification

 

 

Page

‘NNka-b

44
10

10
21
26

82
12
107

30
24
4O
60D

66
115

135

74
16
91
77
72
56
43
27
20
117

Rags: Hair

Article/Regular Feature

 

Drugstore
New Heads
Drugstore
Drugstore
Drugstore
Drugstore

Ara is,

On the

Ara is,Ara...Ara
Street

Drugstore

On the

Street

Hair and the Law

Hairy Tips from the Czar of
Long Locks

Lost Illusions

Follicle Follies

Beauty
Beauty

Vogue: Hair

Checkout
Checkout

Glow Getter

Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Beauty

Beauty
Bright

Checkout
Ready Beauty
Ready Beauty
Ready Beauty
Checkout

Checkout
is the Color of the

New Love Hair

Secret

Weapon of the

Beautiful People

Vogues
Vogues

Ready Beauty
Ready Beauty

Looks to Look for in '71

Beauty
Beauty
Vogues
Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

Bulletin
Checkout
Ready Beauty
Checkout
Ready Beauty
Ready Beauty
Ready Beauty

42

Subheading

 

care
hairstyles
care

care

care

care
hairstyles
hairstyles
care
hairstyles
politics

care
hairstyles
wigs

care

wigs

care
hairstyles
care

wigs
hairstyles
haircoloring,

care
care

coloring

care
coloring
care
hairstyles
styling
hairstyles
care

care

wigs

care

care

_Deg

6/70
6/70
6/70
9/70
11/70
11/70
12/70
3/71
4/71
4/71
4/71

4/71
4/71
4/71

7/70
7/70
7/70
8/1/70
8/1/70
8/1/70
9/15/70

10/1/70
10/1/70

10/1/70

10/1/70
12/70
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/15/71
2/1/71
2/1/71
3/15/71
3/15/71
3/15/71
3/15/71

Page

40
35
17
124
91
77
124
87

H-L‘N-L‘L‘

L‘b

.l.\

52

22

74
107
26
32
34
4O
26
65
179
74
8O
16
20
16
94
83
50
58

20
85
116
96

43

Vogue: Hair con't.

Article/Regular

Feature

 

Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty

Beauty Bulletin

Beauty Bulletin

Vogues Ready Beauty
International Private Eye

Drugstore
Drugstore
Drugstore
Drugstore

Rags: Cosmetics

Oh, Those Painted Ladies...
Where Do They All Belong?

Drugstore
Drugstore
Drugstore

Drugstore
Supermarket
Drugstore

Makeup: Going Straight

Vogue: Cosmetics

Moisture
Colour Casting

Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty

Beauty Checkout

Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty

Beauty Checkout

Subheading

 

Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

Looks to Look for in '71

Ready
Ready
Ready
Ready
Ready
Ready

Sculpture
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty

Beauty
Beauty
Beauty
Beauty
Beauty
Beauty

Vogues Ready Beauty

A New Aid to Plastic Surgery

Makeup, Shakeup
Beauty Bulletin

wigs

care
care,hairstyles
care,wigs

wigs

care

care
care,styling

care
body care
care of skin
skin care

application
skin care
skin care
skin care
products
skin care
application
application
application

care
application
care
care
care
care
care
application
care
application
care products
care products
care products
allergies
application
plastic surgery
care products
care products,
application
allergies
plastic surgery
application
application

Date

4/1/71
4/15/71
1/15/71

‘1/15/71

1/1/71

1/15/71
1/15/71
3/15/71

6/70
8/70
8/70
9/70

9/70
9/70
10/70

12/70
1/71
2/71
5/71
6/71

7/70
7/70
8/1/70
8/1/70
9/15/70
9/15/70
10/15/70
11/1/70
11/15/70
12/70
12/70
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/15/71
3/1/71

3/1/71
3/1/71
3/1/71
4/1/71
3/15/71

Page

41
48

65
63

24
176
88
180
198
84

33
113

60
58
58
58
46
59
54
66
55
48
48

61

44
Rags: Perfume

Article/Regular Feature

 

Essensuality
News
Supermarket
Supermarket
Supermarket

Vogue: Perfume

Vogues Ready Beauty

Vogues Ready Beauty

Vogues Ready Beauty

Everything You Wanted to Know
Know About Perfume

Vogues Ready Beauty

Beauty Checkout

Beauty Checkout

Perfume Is Not For Wearing

ease:

Subheading

 

new scents
new scents
new scents
new scents
new scents

new scents
new scents
new scents

new scents

male perfume

new scents
new scents
new scents

Health Food Products/Exercises

Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood
Dr.Eatgood

Dr.Eatgood

health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products
health food
products

Date
6/70
9/70
1/17

5/71
5/71

8/15/70
9/1/70
11/1/70
11/1/70
11/15/70
12/70

6/71
6/71

6/70
7/70
8/70
9/70
10/70
11/70
12/70
1/71
2/71
3/71
4/71

5/71

Page

28
24
60D
135

176
43
96
12
57
12
57

164
70
36

170

th-¢~$~£~
a>s~

NJfi‘kJ

129
135

33
172
82
16
25
48
56
60
108

84
26
30
4O ’

45
Vogue:

Health Food Products/Exercises

Article/Regular Feature

 

Beauty Checkout
Beauty Checkout
Beauty Checkout
Secret Weapon of the
Beautiful People
Help is on the Way
Eat to Win
Beauty Bulletin
Beauty Checkout
Beauty Checkout
Beauty Checkout
Beauty Checkout

The Health Eater
Beauty Checkout
Vogues Ready Beauty

Exercise the Waterway

Rags: Body
Drugstore
Drugstore
Drugstore

On the Street

You Were Thinking of Maybe
Getting Your Ass Tatooed?

You Get A Tatoo if You Really
Dig Your Body

Drugstore

Drugstore

Drugstore

Vogue: Body

Beauty Bulletin
Secret Weapon of the
Beautiful People
Beauty Checkout
Help is on the Way
Beauty Checkout
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty
How to Have the Prettiest
Feet Walking
Vogues Ready Beauty
Beauty Checkout
Vogues Ready Beauty
Vogues Ready Beauty

Subheading

 

exercises
exercises

diets

exercises

diets
diets

exercises
exercises
exercises
exercises
health food
products

diets
diets

health food
products
exercise

skin
skin
body
body

body

body
skin
body
body

body

body
body
skin
skin
skin
skin
skin
body
skin

care,

care
care
care
care

care
care

decorating
decorating

decorating

decorating
care
care
decorating

care

care
decorating
care
care
care
care
care
care
care

decorating

Date

8/15/70
8/15/70
10/1/70

10/1/70
11/1/70
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/1/71
1/15/71

2/1/71
4/1/71
5/71

4/15/71
5/71

6/70
8/70
8/70
12/70

12/70

12/70
2/71
2/71
2/71

10/1/70

10/1/70
11/1/70
11/1/70
12/70
1/1/71
2/1/71
2/1/71
2/1/71
4/1/71

4/15/71
5/1/71
6/71
8/1/70
91/70

Page

14
23

33
54
56
13
18
44
50
13
17
23

49

15
39

50

15
17
23
24
36
38
44
48

18
20
24

29
32
38
44

48
14
41

54
57
6O

46

Raos: Clothing

_._Q__

Article/Regular Feature

 

Superstar Monotony

Maureen Mubeem: Peach is
Beautiful

Betsy Johnson

Clothesfreak

Supermarket

Bette Davis Has A Lot of Clothes

An Alvin Duskin in Every Closet

Eco-clothes

Supermarket

Dressing Up to Win

Two Piece Suit

All Your Mothers Mink Needs Is a
Crewcut

’ Supermarket

News

Techniks

Clothes From the People Who
Brought You the-Taj Mahal

Supermarket

On the Street

Techniks

Fashion Fascism

Mink Skirt Tribulism

Pity the Poor WOrking Girl

Anal Dropouts

Ladies A La Mode

Do it Sewing‘ ’

Supermarket

On the Street

Work Clothes

Hard Cats

Waste Not, Want Not

On the Street

Jeans Fax

The Rags Road Test #1

Stud and Patch, and Paint and Bleach

In Some Lines of Work You Wear
Fantastic Clothes

Supermarket

On the Street

If God Hadn't wanted You to
Wear a Bra, He Wouldn't
Have Created the Contour Council

Beads

Do it Sewing

How to Make Your Own

0n the Street

Subheadingfi

 

clothing

'Date

6/70

6/70
6/70
6/70
6/70
7/70
7/70
7/70
7/70
8/70
8/70

8/70
8/70
8/70
9/70

9/70

10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
10/70
11/70
11/70
11/70
11/70
11/70
11/70
11/70
11/70

11/70
11/70
12/70

12/70
12/70
12/70
12/70
1/71

 

all articles and regular features were subheaded under clothing only.

42

56
57

31

39

64
68
10
22
27
32
37
52
57
59
10
18
38
51
10
22

25
32
41
53
56
63

10
22
42
58

47
Rags: Clothing

Article/Regular Feature Subheadipg

 

 

Metaphysics 6f Menswear

Howdy Folks

These Guys Dress 'Em, Feed 'Em,
Cure 'Em, Take Care of 'Em
from Head to Toe

Old Clothes: Never Trust Anything
Under 30

How to Fix Your Cowboy Hat

Supermarket

On the Street

Frederick Melliner, the King of
Cheese

A Rags Special: Boutiques and
Hip Capitalism

Patterns

Supermarket

0n the Street

Do You Believe in Magic?

Dressing for God

Familar Clothing from Past Lives

Fashion Forecast: 1970

Do It Sewing

Supermarket

Cosmic Couture

On the Street

Haute Pants

San Franciscos Establishment Dandies

Supermarket"

On the Street

Since I Started Wearing Neckties
My Posture is Better and I
Stand Up Straighter, too

It's All Academic

What Corpses Are wearing

Tips to Tell Your Travel Agent

Do It Sewing

The Survival

Supermarket

Drugstore

On the Street

Men's Makeup: Going Straight

The Bride Biz: Keeping a Stiff UpperLip

Supermarket

' Date

1/71
1/71

1/71

1/71
1/71
1/71
2/71

2/71

2/71
2/71
2/71
3/71
3/71
3/71
3/71
3/71
3/71
3/71
3/71
4/71
4/71
4/71
4/71
5/71

5/71
5/71
5/71
5/71
5/71
5/71
5/71
6/71
6/71
6/71
6/71
6/71

48

analyzed.
Analysis

The intent of the study was to compare and contrast one article
from both Vpgpg_and Rags dealing with each of the subheadings chosen.
Only information related to obtaining or retaining beauty was selected
for analysis. For the sake of accuracy, an attempt was made to quote
rather than paraphrase, and acknowledged with each item was the number
of pages and/or column inches of text and illustration pertaining to it.
All categories are evaluated separately since the degree to which they

are directly related to beauty varies.

Findings
This section pertains to the analysis of beauty as reflected in
Rag§_and ypgpg, The chapter has been divided into main parts: a dis-
cussion of subheading frequency, and a discussion of the written con-

tent findings.

Feet}.

Compiling the articles and regular features indicated a total of
3,596 pages for ypgpg_and 864 for Rags, or 78% more material in Vpgpg
than Rags, After selecting only those articles/regular features re-
lating to fashion and classifying them under their respective categories,
a frequency count of subheadings indicated the emphasis of each maga—
zine (Table 9).

One of the most striking findings was the similarity in subject
matter printed in both ypgpg_and Rag_, As already discussed in Chapter
IV, descriptive analysis, despite visual differences between the maga-
zines, a tabulation of subheadings show frequent similarity in themes.

In only three instances are the subheadings unrelated: Rags Hair:

49

politics, April 1971; Vogue's_Cosmetic: plastic surgery, "Sculpture",

Jan.15,1971,p.83. and "A New Aid to Plastic Surgery", Mar.1,1971,p.85.

Table 9

Subheading Frequency Count*

 

 

 

 

Category Subheading Vogue Rags
Hair care 19 8
hairstyling 4 6
wigs 8 1
politics of -- l
Cosmetics care of skin 7 6
application 4 10
surgery (plastic) 2 --
Body decorating 2 6
care of skin 14 4
Perfume new scents 13 5
Health Products/ _'
Exercises food 7 13
Clothing fashion 2 78
*

Refer to Table 8 for the specific article/regular feature titles.

 

Another interesting finding

is that in regard to the final

category, clothing, Rags outweighed Vogue seventy-eight to two. As had

been forecast by the descriptive analysis, Rags indicated an emphasis

on clothing advertisements as Opposed to clothing articles as evident

in Vogue (Table 2 and 3). The major difference here appears to lie in

the philosophy of the magazines; Vogue was geared towards selling its

advertised products, whereas Rags had turned clothing into a matter

50

of issues rather than commercial venture. Clothing will be more

closely examined in Part II.

Part I

 

Standards of dress are important elements in every society particu-
larly in those countries where there are class distinctions. Prescrip-
tive literature describing such custom can be found in magazines, news—
papers,books, and manuels, literature specifically dealing in appro-
priate and inappropriate dress and clothing selection (Roach and Eicher,
1973,p.20).

Rag§_and Vpgp§_were prescriptive as well as descriptive in nature.
Each magazine described fashion and yet dealt in what was considered
appropriate dress by implying the do's and don'ts of fashion. Ragg con-
tent, a form of fashion inversion, argued against the social rules
of dress "which imply that certain styles are in and that you have to
wear them to be in; the whole idea of beautiful people is an insult"

(The State Journal. Wed.Dec.9,1970).

 

Relevant to this study is how Vogue and Rag§_differed or resembled
each other in attitudes toward beauty. The objective: to compare and
contrast how beauty could be obtained through various methods and/or
products indicated in two fashion magazines, Vpgpg_representing estab—

lishment, and Rags representing hippies.

Facial and Head Adorning

 

#1 Hair: care
Rags: "Hairy Tips from the Czar of Long Locks", April
1971, p.26.
Vogue: "Secret Weapon of the Beautiful People", Oct.1,1970,
p.135.

Rags: There were three pages devoted to hair care. Of these, two pages

or forty-two column inches were devoted to copy, and three half-page

51

black and white photographs made up the remaining page space. The con-
tent concerned primarily two areas: simple scientific explanation of
hair, and ways to care for the hair. There were seven references to
specific methods of hair care, all of them simple and for home use.
XEEEE' A total of three pages was devoted to hair care. One page was
devoted primarily to hair keeping, in particular two specific references
to a surgical method of hair care, and four references to non—surgical
but highly technical hair treatments (Table 10). Sugggestions for treat-
ing damaged hair varied considerably, as shown in Table 10. Most methods
described in Vpgpg often required professional application, implying
professional fees. Examples are "scalp injections” and"high frequency

treatments".

Table-lg

Hair Care Comparison

 

 

#1 Hair:care
Rags: "Hairy Tips from the Czar of Long Locks", April
1971,p.26.
Vogue: "Secret Weapon of the Beautiful People", 0ct.l,
1970,p.135.

 

Vogue Rags
1. hair-transplants 1. part hair from right to left
2. scalp injections 2. use of sterile brushes and
combs
3. steriod in cream or lotion 3. compulsive washing of pillow—
cases and sheets
4. ultra violet light 4. no metal brushes to reduce
heat caps static electricity
high frequency treatments 5. don't wear nylon clothing while

brushing hair--—if you must,
stand on an eraser

6. don't wear tight belts or tight
collars as they prevent optimum
circulation

 

52

#2 Hair: hairstyles

Rags: "Lost Illusions", April 1971,p.32.

Vpgpg: "Looks to Look for in '71", Jan.1,1971, p.31.
Rags; A total of four pages of fifty—four inches was devoted by Rags_
to a critical evaluation of barber colleges. One page is consists of
a photographic cover page; the remaining page space intermingled text
and photograghs. In terms of content, there was no encoUragement of
specific hairstyling, and much encouragement of naturalness. The
standardization, homogeneity, and money of establishment and hair-
styles was frequently criticized .
Vpgpg} A total of two pages was devoted to hairstyling; distributed
throughout the text were eight black and while photographs. The major
subject of the article was the use of false hair pieces, in particu-
lar wigs which not only produce instant hair styles, but also perform,
"instant face lifts". The wig pulls up the face a strategic places
around the chin, eye, and forehead. Three references to color of wigs
were included: navy blue wigs, kelly green wigs, and deep purple wigs.
The remainder of the article included a short section on long hair
and a variety of ways to dress it.
#3 Cosmetics: application

Rags; ”Oh, Those Painted Ladies, Where Do They All

- Belong?", Sept. 1970,p.17.

Vpgpg: "Colour Casting", July 1970,p.107.
.E§E§‘ Because this particular article was on microfilm an accurate count
of column inces could not be accomplished. The magazine image was
projected larger than the actual magazine was. However, there were a
total Of two half-pages of copy, each page intermingled with seven
black and white photographs anc captions. The content covered the make-

up industry and a resistance to excessive use of makeup. There were a

total of eight direct references to the makeup industry, shown in Table 11.

53
Vpgpe; Of the six pages devoted to cosmetic application, only six-
teen column inches were content. The remaining space included three
full-color pages of makeup application and the remaining paragraphs

of a previous article. The article dealt in coloring the face in

Table ll_

Cosmetics

 

#3 Cosmetics: application
Rags: "Oh, Those Painted Ladies, Where Do They All
Belong?" September 1970,p.17.
Vogue: "Colour Casting", July 1970,p.107.

 

Vogue Rags
1. "remember when colours used 1. "cosmetic-counter ladies: a
to sneak about the face as if frustrated actress who is
they were trying to get away wearing the orange pancake
with something natural?" and heavy eyeline mask she

honestly thinks is beauty".
2. "whimiscally painting inverted

yellow triangles on forehead, 2. "most are selling because
covering our newly slender eye- they're hung up on a thing
brows...drawing half-moon". called beauty".

3. "your face had to compete with 3. "invest in multi-variations
clothes and environments that of facial flack"
are becoming increasingly pat-
terned and colorful". 4. "let the real face hangout"

4. "arcs of lavender" 5. "foundation knocked off its

foundations 5 years ago

5. "eyes, ears, and mouth outlined with the advent of the natural
in pink" look"

6. "Indian war paint" 6. "achieve naturalness"

7. "beauty products-hope in a

jar”

8. "makeover never existed ex-
cept in magazines"

 

54

terms of (1) simulating abstract art, (2) emulating the Oriental Look,
and (3) coloring the face in Indian war—paint. There were a total of
six specific references to facial painting incorporated in the copy
(Table 11).
#4 Cosmetics: care of the skin

EEBEF "Drugstore - Skin Ecology", Oct. 1970,p.2.

22522: "Keeping in Touch", April 1,1971,p.109.

Whenever possible matched articles from Rpg§_and Vpgpg_were
utilized. This was done to insure a more accurate and reliable study.
When in a few instances it was not possible, the researcher resorted
to comparison of regular features;in this case Rag§_"Drugstore" is
the regular feature, Vpgpg "Keeping in Touch" the article.

Rags3The total amount of skin care coverage was limited to one para-
graph for Rags, and two pages for Vpgpg, Little could be surmised from
Rags_because of the feature size. However, notable was the very basic
emphasis on skin care through the use of no-alkaline soap to achieve

a healthy complexion. For example, "soap, which is alkaline on your
skin upsets the delicate acid balance necessary", "alkaline skin is
drier and more susceptible to bacteria causes blemishes".

223223 The total number of pages devoted to skin was two; one page was
devoted to copy and one page to a color photographs. Vpgpg_talked of
techniques of skin care requiring professional help as well as money.
For example, "plastic surgery to fit the skin tighter back over the
body", "dermabrasion", "injections of certain chemicals", and "influence
of diet...(to) help keep collogen properly sized". Again, what can be
considered advice toward beauty simplification in Rags, becomes in-

formation about complicated techniques in Vogue.

55

BodyiAdorning

 

#1 Body: decoration

.§E&§‘ "You Were Thinking of Maybe Getting Your Ass

Tatooed?", Dec.1970,p.38.

Vpgpe: "Beauty Checkout", June 1971,p.33.
Rags: Again for lack of an article on body decoration in ypgpg, a
regular feature, "Beauty Checkout", was selected for comparison. The
total coverage for the Rag§_article was three pages. Actual copy in—
cluded thirty-four column inches, two ha1f~page black and white
photographs. The content emphasized the psychology of tatooing as well
as the designs for tatooing. Placement on the body ranged from "flowers,
butterflies, and tiny hearts" on the hands and breasts to all over
body tatooing.
.XQEEE‘ Total attention to body decoration was limited to one para-
graph of three and one-quarter column inches. There was no photography
devoted to body decoration. The content emphasized tatooing as a form
of body decorating and problems with its permanence. Included in the
regular feature were mention of dermabrasion to remove tatoos and
suggestions about do—it yourself temporary tatoos. Vpgpg_specifically
referred to use of food coloring for the latter.
#2 Body: care

Rags; "Drugstore--Unscreen", Aug. 1970,p.4.

.XQEEEF "Beauty Bulletin--Help is on the Way", Nov.1,1970,p.172.
Eggég "Sunscreen", a Rags_feature of one paragraph,dealt with the pro-
ducts for obtaining healthy skin. For example, the product promoted in
Bags is the loofah, a "dried gourd with the right amount of roughness to

removed dead dry skin and stimulate circulation while bathing". Use of

the loofah is a natural way to clear up skin problems.

 

Vogue: Vogue's_article of one page reflected just the opposite

56

professional techniques. In particular are the methods of "dermabrasion"
which erases the errors of the skin, and "chemosurgery" an antidote
for a variety of deep lying skin defects. Evident are two essentials
(1) help from professional sources, (2) money for the treatment. '
#3 Body: perfume (new scents)

Rags: "Essenuality", June 1970,p.41.

ypgpg: ”Perfume is Not for Wearing". Juen 1971, p.113.
Rags: Two pages were devoted to perfume of which one page of twenty-
four column inches were text and one page of black and white sketch. The
text of Rags specifically dealt with the Shelley-Marks Perfumers and
the types of perfume they made. There were ten specific scents named:
Damask Rose, Potpourri, Carnation, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Marketry,
Lemon Verbena, Heliotrope, Jasmine, and Amber. The perfume varied in
prices, for example: $22.50 per ounce, Toilet water: $7.50 per four
ounce, $12.50 per ounce; bathoil $7.50 per ounce, $12.50 per ounce.
Limited quantities are also available at Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Good-
man, Bonwit Teller and B.Altman in New York. (no prices were given in
Peale)-
Vpgpg: Two pages were also devoted to perfume, one page consisted of
a color photograph, the other page was copy. The emphasis of the Vpgpg_
article was on perfume as an invisible communicator as well as the
final touches to your appearance. Even though prices were quoted no

particular brands names were mentioned.

#4 Body: clothing

A total of seventy—eight references in the thirteen Rag§_issues
in the articles and regular features, fifty-eight references in articles
and twenty references in the regular features. Out of the twenty

Vogue issues there were only two specific clothing articles, both

57

focuses on patterns. This lack of direct reference to clothing in
Vpgpgfs articles is significant however. As already stated in the
descriptive analysis 32.50% of Vogue'§_content was textual, and the
remainder of the magazine was either advertisement or a combination
of advertisements and text. Most of Rag§_content concerned clothing.
Vpgpg sought to display commmercial fashions rather than editorialize
about clothing per se as an issue.

Although the categories of hair and cosmetics indicate that the
Vpgpg readers would spend more money than Rags readers, in the category
of clothing no such clear difference exists. A total of seventeen
items of clothing relating to expensive dress was tabulated for
Ragg "Supermarket". Materials advertised were leather, embroidered
Afganistan sheepskin, Chamois, satin, silk, pearl buttons, as well as
custom made boots, pants, shirts, and tie-dyed suede. The standard
prices of such material make it doubtful that they can be considered

economical purchases. “

Body Maintenance

 

#1 Body: health food products

Rags: "Dr.Eatgood", June 1970,p.60.

X23223 "Eat to Win", Jan.1, 1971,p.43.
Rags} One page or twenty-one column inches were devoted to health
food products, the remaining space or four and one-half inches con-
tained three hand-drawn pictures. The content emphasized health food
products especially used to maintain healthy hair; appearing at the end
was one recipe.
XEEEE‘ Total number of pages dealing in health food products was one

page. Column inches could not be counted because of the varying sizes

in paragraphs. The content was divided into two sections: (1) recipes

58

Table‘lg

 

Health Food Products

....

 

Vogue Rags
l. brewers of herb teas for 1. wheat germs

medicinal purposes

2. 2 T. of Vit.B6
2. thyme or rosemary

3. witch hazel

3. sage
4. peppermint soap for sham-
4. rosehip for curing sleepless poo,toothpaste and douche
nights

5. avocado cosmetics
5. barley water

6. oatmeal massages
6. cooked Jeruselum,artichokes,
and sunflower roots 7. soapnut powder

7. hamburg parsley roots 8. vinegar rinse

9. lemon juice rinse

 

Fashion Forecast

 

Rags: "Fashion Forecast 1970", March 1971,p.37.
Vogue: "Fashion Forecast 1971", July 1970.

In terms of actual content, both magazines took totally different
approach to the fashion forecast of the '70's.‘!pgpg seemed very
typical of the latest up and coming fashions, for example "the long
line is with us", "sharp, patch-pocket jackets", and "squashy leather-
shoulder bags" were a few of the fashion items to look forward to in
1971. However, Rag§_article was much different from the predictions of
Vpgpg; in fact the approach to fashion was not a serious evaluation of

dress but rather one of apparent mockery as shown on the following page.

59

"Down on the Farm Jumpsuit" for the switched on concerned
youth features include:
(1) "permanent press wrinkles"
(2) "color-fast sweat stains under the arms and crotch"
(3) "look like you lived in it for a month"
(4) "feel clean, look dirty"
"Ruff Ride 'M Snuggies" include such features as:
(1) "built in boots"
(2) "special pockets on the boots"
(3) "available in denim blue or black patent leather"
The hat for all seasons features:
(1) "fringed buckskin western hat"
(2) "at home in the bunkhouse as well"
"Back to Earth Sweatshirt" includes:
(1) "made of genuine sub-baked adobe coated with a film of
mylor plastic" '
(2) "impervious to rain, fog, and snow"
(3) "merely scrub with a good stiff brush and any good
bio-degradable detergent, hose it down, and its as good as new"
The "matching Adobe Slacks" have such features as:
(1) "available in sitting position or standing

(2) "team up a pair with a sweatshirt"

Chapter y;

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

The purpose of this study was to compare and contrast how beauty
is exemplified as obtainable by various methods and/or products in
two contrasting magazines, Rgg§_and Vpgpg, In particular, beauty was
examined according to six fashion variables emphasized in the magazines:
cosmetics, perfume, health products/exercises, body, hair, and
clothing.

The sample was composed of twenty Vpgpg_magazines number 3,596
pages, and thirteen Rag§_magazines numbering 864. Both magazines
geared their publications toward a particular group, ypgpg_to the
"establishment", anleagg to the hippies. All articles/regular fea-
tures in all issues were listed separately and given categorical labels
according to content. A tabulation of the categories delimited the
study by indicating all articles/regular features dealing with fashion
only.

For purposes of obtaining an overall perspective of Rags and Vpgpg,
a descriptive analysis was first employed covering the areas of general .
description, graphics, layout, and textual content. The analysis
indicated notable differences in overall appearance and content, as well
as several unexpected similarities. A system for selecting words and
sentences indicative of methods and/or products used to promoted beauty.
A summary of each category in relation to the objective to the study

follows:

60

61

Objective: To compare and contrast how beauty is exemplified as ob—
tainable by various methods and/or products in two contrasting maga-

zines, Rags and Vogue/

Hypothesis: A comparison and contrast of beauty represented in two

 

contrasting fashion magazines will indicate a difference in the means

of achieving beauty.

Facial and Head Adorning

 

#1 Hair: care
Two important factors were indicated; the methods utilized in

 

obtaining healthy hair were complex and expensive in the Vogue article,
while methods suggested by Rags were simple. In this context Vogue
suggested the extraordinary, and Rags the natural.

#2 Hair: hairspyles
The state major emphasis was "naturalness" in beauty, however,

 

the definitions of "natural look" differed. Vogue'§_interpretation of

naturalness was involving "instant face lifts", and rainbow colored

wigs. Rags stressed "no-conk" hair, allowed to grow naturally.

#3 Cosmetics: application
A strong emphasis was again applied to the idea of natural beauty.

 

Cosmetics became an issue in Rag§_which editorially criticized the
"necessary" aids for natural beauty. Findings also indicated Vpgpgf§_
extreme face painting as beyond what would be generally accepted by
society as natural.

#4 Cosmetics: care pf skin
The differences in obtaining healthy skin were not as extreme as

 

in hair. However, Vogue again emphasized methods provided by professionals
and the relative high cost of performing such services. Rags did not

Stress any extravagant method.

62

Body Adorning

 

#1 Body: decoration
Tatooing was one of the three categories in which there was

 

 

partial agreement between Vogue and Rags. Both magazines advocated
tatooing as an art and a way of decorating the body.

#2 Body: care p£_skin
A technological approach was indicated in Vogue'§_article; again

 

an indication for the need of money to obtain a desirable end effect.
Rags'§_approach was just the opposite with an emphasis on simplicity.

#3 Body: perfume (new scents)
Both magazines suggested the use of perfume as a final touch to

 

 

beauty. There was little difference between either article.

#4 Body: Clothipg
Findings indicated a money-oriented emphasis in both magazines,

 

however, a different type of clothing emphasis was stressed. Vpgpglg,
as already indicated in the descriptive analysis, emphasized clothing
through their advertisements. Rags) however, dealt with clothing
through the entire issue. Especially noted was the expensive quality of

clothing articles discussed in"Supermarket".

Body Maintenance

 

#1 Body: health food products
The health food articles were markedly similar, as indicated in

 

references to maintained bodily functions; in particular were the

types of food products used in body maintenance.

CONCLUSION

 

Two out of the six categories, hair and cosmetics, totally sup-
port the hypothesis. Hair and cosmetics have indicated the following:

(1) the high technology shown in Vogue, and the simplification of

63

beauty practices, (2) the need for money and professional assistance
suggested in Eggpg but not in Bags, (3) the fact that while Raga

is often associated with a bizarre form of journalism, ypgpg_was
often just as outlandish.

The category of "body" only supported the hypothesis in terms of
skin care. The remaining categories of perfume, health/exercise products
and clothing did not support the hypothesis and have indicated a
number of factors: (1) the language in both magazines was sometimes
quite similar. The researcher assumes, however, that'!pgpg_was
emulating the hippies and not vice versa, (2) the magazines were
not remarkably different in content, only in appearance, and (3) there
were many similarities in the outlook of both magazines in terms of
the significance of perfume, health/exercise products, and clothing

to beauty.

64

Recommendations for Further

Study

The following are possible suggestions for further research in
the area of hippie and establishment appearance.

(1) Further examination of values through fashion magazines, in
particular to group identity, or success for example.

(2) A content analysis of Raga_magazine as an indicator of
group identity.

(3) An indepth analysis of either hair, cosmetics, or clothing.

(4) An analysis of Vagaa_particularly examining how beauty changes
over a period of time.

(5) An investigation of the motives and philosophies of the
.Raga editors for publishing the magazine.

(6) A comparison of similarities between the publication Qpaap_
£212.3nd.E§E§- ~~
At the present time, a new edition of Raga_will be published by at
least one of the orginal contributing editors (article on the new
Raga appeared in the May 1977 edition of Maamagazine. Examples from
the new publication appear in appendix VIII). This new edition of Raga
raises new ideas for further study:

(7) A comparison of the new Raga_soon to be published and the old

Rags in terms of beauty emphasis.

APPENDIX I

APPENDIX I

ARTICLES AND FEATURES
FOR JUNE 1970-JUNE 1971

 

VOGUE

PAGE JUNE 1970 TOTAL PAGES:196
**28 Mae West: beauty
**32 Vogues ReadyBeauty: face moisturizer, body care
**46 Beauty Checkout: exercises,hair care, face care
**54 Vogues ReadyBeauty: men - skin care, cologne

60 Vogues Notebook: Metropolitan Museum

62 Vogues Notebook: social balls

64 Vogues Notebook: Sundays

*66 Vogues Spotlight: movies

*68 Vogues Spotlight: art

*70 . Vogues Spotlight: books

*72 Vogues Spotlight: books

*74 Vogues Spotlight: underground

*76 Vogues Spotlight: dance

*79 Food in Vogue

*81 Horoscope

83 Men in Vogue

*85 Vogues Eye View: family power

*108 People Are Talking About

*110 Encounter Groups,

*113 Foundling Groups

*132 How to Train an American Wife

134 The Greek Way of Galanos
140 Mere Dash than Cash
**158 How to Stay 10 lbs.Thinner
**160 Beauty Bulletin
*170 The Joyous House of the warners
176 Fashions in Living
178 Vogues Own Boutique

 

 

PAGE JULY 1970 TOTAL PAGES:136
**12 Beauty Checkout: wigs,face care, cosmetics
*43 Food Gazette
**26 Beauty Checkout: exercises
**28 Vogues Ready Beauty: skin care
32 Vogues Notebook: social balls
*34 Vogues Spotlight: books
*

Single asterick indicates an article/regular feature not relating to

fashion.
**

Double asterick indicate an article/regular feature relating to fashion.

65

PAGE

*9: 30
*34
*34
*36
*47

49
*82
*89
*91

94
*105
*112
*118
*133

PAGE

**8
**2()
*A25
*A30
36
**33
**4o
*e42
**42
45
*47
*49
51
53
*54
56
78
*80
*90
*94
*97
*99
99

100
104
*125
**129
**131
*133
137
*148

66

JULY 1970 con't.

 

Vogues Ready Beauty: fragrances, skin care
Vogues Spotlight: books

Vogues Spotlight: art

Vogues Spotlight: travel

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View: the Leg

People Are Talking About

Only People Make You Cry: Viet Nam

Future Greats: stars

Fake-quake: fake fur

Meditations: serenity of the mind and body
The Glow Getter: Hair care

Gai Aulenti: Italian Home Designing

Notes on the Geisah 1970: Japan

 

AUGUST _1_,1970 TOTAL PAGES: 156

Beauty Checkout: face care, hair

Beauty Checkout: Chinese model

Vogues Ready Beauty: makeup, skin care

Vogues Ready Beauty: eye, hair, bathoils, cosmetics

Notebook: wedding in London

Vogues Spotlight: theatre

Vogues Spotlight: movies

Vogues Spotlight: art

Vogues Spotlight: books

Fashions in Living

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View: Genevieve Waite

Up is Better than Down: direction for the young

The Look of Today

Find you Like: fashion

People are Talking About

32 Actionists: people of success

Sex, Virginity, and Money

Paolo Soleri: a visionary city planner

Winter Rug: short story

The New Culture: what hit the young when rock left the
center of their lives

Fastest Fun in the West

More Dash than Cash

Short Story

New Cut of the Throat: exercises

Out Damned Spot: acne

Color at Full Cry: apartment designing

Vogues Own Boutique

He Spoke to Me, He Won't do that Again: extravagances in Britain

PAGE

**24
**23
32
*34
*34
*36
*38
*38
*40
*43
45
47
48
58
64
70
*83
72
76
*87
89
94
**93
**102
**105
108
119
*125
130

PAGE
**144
**176
**188
232
**252
**258
*276
292
294
296
*298
*300
*302
*304
*308
*311
*311
*312
315

67

AUGUST 12,1970 TOTAL PAGES:138

 

Vogues Ready Beauty: spas,baths,powder,hair,perfume,wigs
Beauty Checkout: exercise,diet

Vogues Notebook: flying featherball

Vogues Spotlight: books

Vogues Spotlight: movies

Vogues Spotlight: travel

Vogues Spotlight: music

Vogues Spotlight: underground-Milano,ltaly
Vogues Spotlight: books

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View: fur

The Look

Legs: fashion

Looks for the Time of Your Life: Evening,day,weather fashion.
Vogue Patterns

People Are Talking About

Candice Bergan

Cher—okee

More Babies are Needed, not Fewer

The New Furs

Ryder: Painter

Face Architecture

New Srays: feminine deodorants

Your Wonder Under: water baths

Under fashion to Put the New Clothes Over
Andizo: men in fashion, women in fashion
Life in Full-Fling: Barons

Vogues Own Boutique

SEPTEMBER _1_, 1970 TOTAL PAGES: 134

 

 

Furs,Fashion,and Conversation

Vogues Ready Beauty: perfume

Beauty Checkout: facial spas

U.S. Fashion In Expo '70

Vogues Ready Beauty: underground color film,skin,mink oil
Vogues Ready Beauty: fingernails, bathing

Rome Restaurants

Vogues Notebook: N.Y.party

Vogues Notebook: wedding

Vogues Notebook: 19th anniversary ball for Boston symphony
Vogues Spotlight: movies

Vogues Spotlight: underground travels

Vogues Spotlight: education

Vogues Spotlight: art

Vogues Spotlight: books

Vogues Spotlight: theatre

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

PAGE

317
375
382
**384
*395
400
416
378
*388

PAGE

 

**34
**40
52
*54
*54
*56
*58
*60
*63
*65
67
69
70
**96
*100
**119
*125
126
144
*164
168

PAGE

**6OD
*k66
**7O
**86
9O
92
*94
*96
*98
*100
*102
*107
*109
111
**115

68

SEPTEMBER l,1970 con't.

 

Vogues

 

Eye View: N.Y. collections

People Are Talking About

Who's Liberated and Why?

The Fantastic Tosi: inventive makeup,costume designing
Tip Sheets: music,art,books

More Dash than Cash

Vogues

Own Boutique

Extravagant Casati
Body Speak

SEPTEMBER 15,1970

Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

TOTAL PAGES:168

 

Checkout: makeup

Ready Beauty: new arrivals,hair,skin care,makeup
Notebook: American Museum in Britain

Notebook: books

Notebook: movies

Notebook: television

Notebook: sports

Notebook: travel

FashiOns in Living
Horoscope

Men in
Vogues

Vogue
Eye View: St.Laurent

Paris Fashion:Chanel,St.Laurent,Givenchy,Dior

Paris:

clothes

People Are Talking About
International Beauty: makeup,hair
Dr.Christian Bernard

Italy Fashion

walk Right Out: fashion

Going on 200: MetrOpolitan museum

Vogues

OCTOBER _1_,1970

Ready Beauty: avon

TOTAL PAGES:216

 

 

Beauty
Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

Checkout: hair,weight,coloring hair
Checkout: hair styling

Ready Beauty: makeup,skin care

Ready Beauty: face creams,moisturizers,makeup
Notebookzwedding in Spain

Notebook: cultural opening for Spanish house
Spotlight: books

Spotlight: education

Spotlight: art

Spotlight: underground composer

Spotlight: travel

Food Gazette
Horoscope
Men in Vogue

Bright

is the Color of the New Love Hair

PAGE

 

**123
**135
136
**l38
140
*158
*162
164
*179
185
194
201

PAGE
**24
*x26
32
*34
*36
*36
38
*41
43
45
*67
*71
**74
**7g
*82
88
100
102
110
116
118

PAGE

**62
AA65
**3g
89
92
94
*98
*100
*102
*104
*106
*108

69

OCTOBER 1,1970 con't.

 

Beauty as Personality

Secret Weapon of the Beautiful People: hair,face,skin care
On the Water Front: life,health,beauty,and power
The Importance of Noses

Via Valentino: fashion

People Are Talking About

The Astonishing History of Maura Budberg

The Look of Spain

In Spain: Duchess

More Dash than Cash

Pretty Girl Furs

Vogues Own Boutique

OCTOBER _1_§_ , 19 70 TOTAL PAGES: 128

 

Beauty Checkout: fasting,spas
Vogues Ready Beautyzmakeup, perfume
Vogues Notebook: social balls
Vogues Spotlight: books

Vogues Spotlight: sports
Vogues Spotlight: travel
Vogues Restaurants

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View

People Are Talking About
Joseph Albers: art

The Beauty Power of Moisture
Legsercises

New Hope for Treatment of Breast Cancer
Looks that get it all Together
Beautiful People in Sunglasses
Walkaway Winner from London
Vogues Choice: furnishings
Double Talk: sculpture

Vogues Own Boutique

NOVEMBER l,1970 TOTAL PAGES:

Beauty Checkout: natural beauty,food
Beauty Checkout: bicycling,underground cologne,makeup
Vogues Ready Beauty: perfume,bathoil
Vogues Fashion in Travel

VOgueS Notebook: Gone with the Wind Party
Vogues Notebook: party in Paris

Vogue Spotlight: books

Vogues Spotlight: movies

Vogues Spotlight: theatre

Vogues Spotlight: art

Vogues Spotlight: movies

Vogues Spotlight: television

PAGE

 

*111
*113
115
117
118
124
*144
*150
**162
**154
162
**172
**180
*182
**198

PAGE

30
*74
*74
*76
*76

31
*83

85

87

90

106
*109
*113
114
*144
*146
**l48
*162
**170
170
**178
**179

180

PAGE

**74
**80
**32
**84
87
88
90

70

NOVEMBER 191970 con't.

 

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View: fashion

Knit one,Tick on: fashion

What's New: fashion

People Are Talking About

Noise

New Exercises for Longer Life

Mainbocker: fashion

More Dash than Cash

Help is on the way: complexion,hair,figure
Everything You Wanted to Know About Perfume
Visconti: director

Vogues Ready Beauty: perfume

NOVEMBER 12: 1970

Checkout the Men
Vogues Spotlight:
Vogues Spotlight:
Vogues Spotlight:
Vogues Spotlight:
Fashions in Living
Horoscope

Men in Vogue
Vogues Eye View
The Accessory Thing

The Looks You Want Right Now
People Are Talking About

To a Man: the Terrain of Love
Catach Colorado: fashion

What is a Nervous Breakdown?
Mr.Charm—Warren Beatty

Your Skin vs. Winter Sum

121 Xmas Present Ideas

books
movies
education
sports

TOTAL PAGES:180

 

Vogues Ready Beauty: scents,perfume,after shave lotion

Vogues Own Boutique

Vogues Ready Beauty: perfume,new razors,parkas

Vogues Ready Beauty: eye masks,ski cream, eye shadows,makeup

Vogues Fashions in Travel

DECEMBER 1970

 

TOTAL PAGES:214

 

Vogues Ready Beauty: hair coloring, makeup,face shaper

Vogues Ready Beauty: spas,makeup
Beauty Checkout: face care, skin care
Beauty Checkout: perfume

Vogues Notebook: carnival in Spain
Vogues Notebook:

Vogues Notebook: salute to Jack Benny

night at the San Francisco Opera

PAGE

*92
*100
*102
*105
*107
109
*116
*124
*136
**146
*158
*162
*166
168
170
196

PAGE
*A16

AA20
AA26
*28
**32
4O
*k43
*45
*47
49
**51
*80
*82
*83
*84
*85
*86
*87
*89
91
*102
107
122
*124
127

PAGE
**12

*k17
18

71

DECEMBER 1970 con't.

 

Vogues Fashion in Travel

Vogues Spotlight: books

Vogues Spotlight: television

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

The Further Side of Joy: short story

Sophia Loren

Specials in Sex: orchids

The Spectacular Highlanders of New Guinea:body decoration
Nijinski: the greatest horse of his generation
The Life and Dare of Death in Venice: films
People Are Talking About

All Work and No Play

Wild Alice: plays

Vogues Own Boutique

JANUARY_l,197O TOTAL PAGES:14O

 

 

Vogues Ready Beauty: skin care,mail care,eyes, perfume,hair
acne,makeup

Vogues Ready Beauty: makeup

Beauty Checkout: exercises

Vogues Fashion in Travel: Fiji's

Beauty Bargains: makeup,moisturizers

Vogues Notebook: Broadway musicals

Eat to Win: dieting

Horosc0pe

Vogues Fashion in Living: furniture

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View

PeOple Are Talking About

The New Move Craze

Ses's Silent Majority

After the Electric Guitar: Elton John

1971, This Way--Revolutionary Psychiatrist

Beauty Bulletin : makeup,cxercises

See...The Amazing Future: cassette T.V.

S.Stein: art

Beauty Bulletin: looks for 1971

The Last Game Richard Burton Lost

Fiji: sun going clothes

Health foods

New Sense of Living,1971

Vogues Own Boutique

JANUARY 15,1971 TOTAL PAGES:110

 

————-————n

Beauty Checkout: face exercises
Vogues Ready Beauty: hair
Vogues Notebook: social balls

PAGE

*25
28
31
33
50

*52
56

*62
66

**77
**82
**86

**104
106

PAGE

**56
**70
*A72
84
84
*88
93
97
99

100
133
*142
*145
**164
**170
*174
180
*192

PAGE

**12
22
**25
**27
*29
33
36
*38
41
42
64
8O

72

JANUARY 15,1971 con't.

 

Vogues Food Gazette

Vogues Fashion in Living

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View

Put on the Coats

PeOple Are Talking About

A Mid-Summer's Night: play

Jean Duffete's Lanscape for Trolls
Colors

Beauty Bulletin: hair

Breasts Sculpture

Your Looks are as Good as Your Discipline
The Topography of Love

A Place to Raise Rainbows

FEBRUARY $31971 TOTAL PAGES:192

 

FEBRUARY 12,1971

 

Vogues Ready Beauty: body care, shampoo, makeup
Vogues Ready Beauty: perfume,hair,color,skin care
Beauty Checkout: hair, sleeping

Vogues Notebook: Imperial Ball

Season's Snap-Off

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View

Your Best Spring Days: N.Y. collections
Americans Speak Out: Presidents

Communes

People Are Talking About

American Good Looks: beauty routines

Beauty Bulletin: water plus

Space and Light: apartments

Vogues Own Boutique

The Old Bus: buses

TOTAL PAGES:128

 

Beauty Checkout: cosmetics

Vogues Notebook: dance in Washington, D.C.
Vogues Ready Beauty: skin creams,cosmetics, perfume
Vogues Ready Beauty: wigs

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Vogues Fashion In Living

Sea Gift, a Cruise into Irresponsibility
Vogues Eye View: ready to wear

Ready to Wear: Spain,Italy

The N.Y.Collections

People Are Talking About

72

PAGE FEBRUARY 12,1971

*86 Gimme Shelter: documentary rock festival

*87 Sex,Up with the Stock Market

*89 Love and Marriage

*90 Solzinitsyn
**94 You Asked...You Wrote...You Called...We answered: beauty
**98 The Beauty Bulletin: the now and forever diet

100 The Beautiful People in the Snow: fashion
106 Top to Toe

112 Jungle Jewel Box: furniture

120 Vogues Own Boutique

 

 

PAGE ' MARCH_l,1971 TOTAL PAGES:164
**28 Beauty Checkout:hair combs, skin care
**41 Vogues Ready Beauty: false eyelasheS,moisturizers,fingernails
**43 Beauty Checkout: hair coloring
**50 Vogues Ready Beauty: cosmetics
**58 Vogues Ready Beauty: cosmetics
62 Vogues Notebook: Spain an International Shooting party
64 Vogues Notebook: opera
*66 Vogues Food-Gazette
*70 Horoscope
73 Men in Vogue
75 Vogues Eye View: inexpensive clothes
*108 Genius, What is It? Who Has It?
*112 Women in Rock
*113 Women, Two Facesof More than a Century
*113 1971,Reflections of an Empty Woman
**117 Of Skin and Hair and Water Power
123 Brevity is the Soul: underwear

*130 Love Story
134 Bikini Days

*138 The Incredible Swones and their Planetszstory of the 20's and 30's
142 A House of its Own

 

150 Vogues Own Boutique
*156 People Are Talking About
PAGE MARCH 12,1971 TOTAL PAGES:120
**12 Beauty Checkout: Chanel,music,hair
**20 Vogues Ready Beauty: hair,makeup
*22 Vogues Food Gazette
*24 Horoscope
28 Vogues Notebook: social balls
31 Men in Vogue
32 Vogues Eye View
63 The Great American Shirt Life
*70 People Are Talking About
*74 Collection: film art
75 Bed and Board
76 Rome: fashion

PAGE

 

*82
**85
*87
94
*102
104
110

PAGE

 

**4O
**44
*A52
**59
**61
AA72
80
82
*84
*86
91
92
*94
**101
**102
**108
110
**116
**118
*120
*121
**131
132
**158
168

PAGE

**36
**48
**50
54
*58
*60
65
67
*68
72
74
*90

73

MARCH l2,1971 con't.

 

My House is Paper...Glued with Love

A Reward to Plastic Surgery
International Private Eye: hair,makeup
The Coat

Live Rich

Fashion Furniture

Vogues

APRIL 1,1971

Own Boutique

TOTAL PAGES:18O

 

Vogues
Quiche
Beauty
Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

 

Ready Beauty: perfume,hair,skin care
Subverted: food

Checkout: exercise

Checkout: dieting,exercise

Ready Beauty: skin treatments, bathoils
Ready Beautyzperfume

Notebook: debut

Notebook: dance

Cook Laughing
Horoscope

Men in
Vogues
Audrey
Beauty

Vogue

Eye View
Hepburn
Speaking

Sex Appeal is a State of Mind: exercise,beauty routine
Skin,Keeping in Touch

East Does It, Sexy Hair on the Most Wanted List
Makeup,Shakeup

A Pretty Woman Needs All the Help She Can Get

1971, Gigi Looks at Sex “

Cubanism

B,C: vitamins

Curtain Going Up

People Are Talking About

Vogues

APRIL __1_5_,1971

Vogues
Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

Own Boutique

TOTAL PAGES:156

 

Ready Beauty: hair,oily skin,makeup,nutrition
Checkout: travel,exercise,stores

Ready Beauty: scents,dermatology,skin care
Notebook: social balls

Food Gazette

Horoscope
Men In Vogue

Vogues

Eye View: allons

Traveling with Elizabeth

The Clothes that Get You Where You're Going
Go Vogue

The Great Romantic Travellers

PAGE

102
106
**108
*112
*117
*122
*126
148

PAGE

**70
**SI
**84
**86
88
*96
98
100
*102
*106
110
113
115
**117
*120
*127
*130
*130
138
*154
*160
**164
**167
**170
**175
*187
190

PAGE

**26
**33
**36
**3g
50
52
56
*58
*62

74

APRIL 15,1971

 

Jet Lag

Pack Up Your Beauty

How To
Travel

Have the Prettiest Feet Walking:
Tie Up: house boat

makeup

How People Really Travel
Two Literary Travellers: a dialogue
Vogue Patterns

Vogues

MAY 1971

Beauty
Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
London
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues

Own Boutique

TOTAL PAGES:204

 

Checkout: hot pants,diets

Checkout: gurus,exercise

Ready Beauty: baths,oil,spray perfume
Ready Beauty: hair,cologne

Fashions In Living

Letter

Notebook: Venetian Beauties

Notebook: 20's follies

Food Gazette

Horoscope

Vogues

Fashions in Living

Men in Vogue

Vogues

Eye View: Joy ride

Nakedness/Nudity
The Cushings of New Port
Tennis, Smash Sport of the 70's

Should

Anyone Really Play to Win?

Can a Man Lose to a Woman in the Love Game

Berber

Blue for Summer

People Are Talking About
A Couple of Romantics
The Lurking Enemy of Beauty

The Health Eater:

Adele Davis

Exercise, the Water Way
His and Her's Super Spas
The Men Behind the Men Who Make Money in Sports

Vogues

JUNE 1971

Beauty
Beauty
Vogues
Vogues
Vogues
Eating

Own Boutique

TOTAL PAGES:162

 

Checkout: hair,health food,skin care

Checkout: perfume,tatoos

Ready Beauty: nails,skin

Ready Beauty: skin care,perfume,water-softening,nails
Notebook: Spain

in Mexico City: travel

Fashions in Living

Vogues

Food Gazette

Horosc0pe

PAGE

67

69
*70
*75
*84
*86
*88
*90
*94
*106
*108
*110
*113
*116
*146

75

JUNE 1971 con't.

 

Men in Vogue

Vogues Eye View

The New Freedom of Domestic Bliss
Candice Bergen

Family Power

The Ties WOmen Cannot Shake and Have
Elaine: restaurant

Coming of Age

Fight Hard

Happy Marriage

Rape,True and False

Wife-Power

Perfume is for Wearing

That was the Weekend that Was
Vogues Own Boutique

APPENDIX II

APPENDIX II

ARTICLES AND FEATURES
FOR JUNE 1970-JUNE 1971

 

 

 

RAGS
'PAGE JUNE 1970 TOTAL PAGES:§l_
**2 Off the Street: clothes
**4 Drugstore: hair,skin care,makeup
*6 Signs
8 On the Street
*14 Superstar Monotony: Rock and Roll
**17 New Heads
**23 Maureen Mubeem, Peach is Beautiful: tie-dying
29 Camera
**33 Betsy Johnson
**41 Essensualityzperfumes
*46 The Cop of the Year
48 The Cartoon Capers
*52 Kazoo
**54 Clothesfreak
**56 Supermarket: handstitched leather purses,fabric,hats,knitted
caps,macrame,t-shirts,home,furnishings
**60 Dr.Eatgood
PAGE JULY 1970 " TOTAL PAGES:§1_
*3 News
**4 Drugstore: hair products,weight reduction, fingernails,health
breasts
*6 Signs
*7 Cosmic News: lectures.yoga
**13 Bette Davis Has a Lot of Clothes
**18 An Alvin Duskin Dress in Every Closet
**27 A Make-over Shoe
**33 Merrily, Merrily, Merrily, Merrily LIfe is But a Dream: leather
*37 Feed Your Face Soap
**44 Eco-Clothes
**50 Supermarket: basketball,socks,lndian buckskin
**57 Techniks: battery heated clothes
*58 Dr.Eatgood
*

Single asterick indicates an article/regular feature not relating to

**

fashion.

Double asterick indicates an article/regular feature relating to fashion.

76

PAGE

*2
**4

*6

**13
**17
*20
**23
*26
**33
*36
*40
44
*48
**49

**53
*56
*A58

PAGE

**2
**4
*6
*8
*9
**15
*16
**17
**27
*34
**39
*43
*46
*47
**48
**so
**58

PAGE

*Az
**4

**15

*16
**19
**23

77

AUGUST 1970 TOTAL PAGES:§Q_

 

 

Platters: music

Drugstore: makeup,tatoos,health,herbs,skin care,nails

Signs

On the Street

Dressing Up to Win: sports clothes

The Two Piece Suit

The Teacher was Teaching the Golden Rule

Erika Elias: fashion designer

Never When: alternate to culture capitalism

All Your Mothers Mink Needs is a Crew Cut: redesigning clothes

Bridge Over Troubled Waters: American Indian art

Cockettes: hippie theatre

Earth Mothers Wedding Album

Techniks: wrist computers

Supermarket: workers clothes,leather,printed silks,sweaters,old
clothes, handmade custom pants,applique

Do It Sewing

Camping

Dr.Eatgood

SEPTEMBER‘197O

 

TOTAL PAGESral

 

News: dress lengths, perfume

Drugstore: health,acne,hair,natural face cleanser,warts
Platters: music

Signs

Cosmic News: religion

Techniks: try on clothes without trying them on

Common Cents: business

Oh,Those Painted Ladies...Where Do They All Belong?: cosmetics
New Knit for Non-Knitters: knitting .

Come to the Fare: recreation of the Renaissance

Clothes from the People Who Brought You the Taj Mahal
Kuston Furniture: bringing your hot rod home

Spaces: furniture

Camping: sleeping bags

Do It Sewing: ruffle bottomed pants

Supermarket: original clothes,denim,leather,shoes,beads
Dr.Eatgood

OCTOBER 1970 TOTAL PAGES:§2_

 

 

Drugstore: cosmetics,skin and soap,facial saunas

On the Street: laws and cltohes, toys, clothes, Charles
Manson,Miss America Vamp contest,fabric design,
studs,bell bottoms,women's suffrage,nudity.

Techniks: re-cycled clothes

Signs

Fashion Fascism: midi- the politics of clothes

Mini Skirt Tribulism

PAGE

**24
*33
**36
**38
**44
*45
*46
**48

*60
PAGE

*A2
*A4

*16
**18
**20

*24
**29
**32
**38
**44
**46
**48

*60
PAGE

*2
**4

**14

*25
*26
**28
**31
*35
**41

**44
*50
**54

78

OCTOBER 1970 con't.

 

"NOVEMBER 1970

Pity the Poor Working Girl: office working codes

How Ricky Escaped from the GTO's: groupies

Anal Drop-Out: fashion dropouts,slobs

Ladies a la Mode: restaurant dress

Do It Sewing

Camping

Taking the Mystery Out of the Miracle: care labeling

Supermarket: perfume,shoes,national dress,designers, t-shirts,
1eather,patchwork clothes,silk,knotting, beads,
handicrafts,tie-dyed suede

Common Cents

TOTAL PAGES a;

 

 

Drugstore: FDA,cosmet1cs,health products,skin care,hair
On the Street: midi controversy,uniforms,tie-dye,furs,
levis,fashion shows, smoking in restaurants,
music, voodoo,garment industry
Signs
Work Clothes
Hard Hats: the champion fashion critics
Waste Not,Want Not: ecology
Jeans Fax
The Rags Roda Test, no.1: jeans
Stud and Patch and Paint and Bleach
In Some Lines of Work you Wear Some Fantastic Clothes
Dr.Eatgood, M
Supermarket: war surplus clothes, applique,shoe/boots,cosmetics,
work clothes,chamois shirts,pants,vest,skirts,
satin jeans
Common Cents

DECEMBER 1970 TOTAL PAGES:11

 

 

If You Were a Xmas Tree, WOuld You Rather Be Alive or Dead?
Drugstore: dermatitis,cheap beauty products, toothpaste,
makeup,acne

On the Street: maxi skirts, tatoos, artists, aniline dyes,
government reservations, religion,glass,tuxes,
soap,fashion, designing, tie dye

She Was Beautiful: Janis JOplin

Signs

You Were Thinking of Maybe Getting Your Ass Tatooed"

You Get A Tatoo if You Really Dig Your Body

Life Along the Amazon Today

If God Hadn't Wanted You To Wear A Bra, He WOuldn't Have

Created the Contour Council

Ara is Ara is...Ara: Vogue hair stylist

Raggedy Robin: freelance clowns

Beads

PAGE

**57
*58
**59
*60
**63
**64

*76
PAGE

*Az
*4

**6

**16

*20
**23
**23

**36
**38
**42

*53
**54
**56
**57
**61

*68

PAGE

**2

*4
*6
**g

**31
*35
**39
*53
*62
**64
**66
**68

*76

79

DECEMBER 1970 con't.

 

Do It Sewing

One Huge Supermarket Where They Got Nothing But Organic Eats

Dr.Eatgood

How to Make Your Own

Media Massages: politics, foundation garments'

Supermarket: tatoo shirts,t-shirts, pearl buttons,vitamins,
restaurants,custom made boots, shirts,leather,
boutique,velvet jeans,clothing stores,

Cardin classics

Common Cents

 

JANUARY 1971 TOTAL PAGES:§9

 

Drugstore: hair,rashes,complexion,health

Platters: music

Supermarket:ecology,people,coats,beauty

The Metaphysics of Mens Wear of A Night of Bliss with Miss
Teenage America WOrth All This?: politics and fashion

Cosmic News

Howdy Folks: western style dress

These Guys Dress 'Em,Cure 'Em,Feed 'Em,Take Care of 'Em from
Head to Toe: western dress convention

Our Man in Schenectady: 9-5 dress

Gliding Down Memory Lane with Amanda Slinchecum: old clothes
Old Clothes, Never Trust Anything Under Thirty

Media Massages

Dr.Eatgood ”

How to Fix Your Bowboy Hat

Supermarket: western clothes,boots,cheap clothes

Mountain Arts: handmade crafts

Common Cents

FEBRUARY 1971 TOTAL PAGES: _7_a

 

 

Drugstore: FDA,ecology,flavored breasts, body colors,
poisoning
Cosmic News: cosmic calendars,gurus
Platters: music
On the Street: short shorts,junkies,skinny dipping in mud,
London britches, ear-piercing,boutique fashion,
capitalistic merchandise.
Frederick Mellinger, the King of Cheese:foundation garments
A Report on MacFadden—Bartel Publishers
A Rags Special Report: Boutique and Hip Capitalism
Miss Penny Arcade
Media Massages: books
Patterns
Dr.Eatgood
Supermarket:shorts,obscene clothing,ski clothes,applique,
embroidered Afganistan coats
Common Cents: business

PAGE

**2
*4
*8

**10

**22
*24
**27
**32
**37
*40
*45
*46
*48
**52
*53
**55
**57
**59

PAGE

 

**3

**6
*8

**10

**18
*19
**21
**26
29
**32
**36
*44
**38
**45
*46
**48
**50
**51

*60

PAGE

 

**4
*6
**10

80

MARCH 1971 TOTAL PAGES:§2

 

 

Drugstore: pollution,hand cream drugs,cosmetics

Platters: music

Cosmic news

On the Street: music,hair color,facial hair,peOple,shoes,
work clothes,Coco Chanel

Do You Believe in Magic?: clothing as a universal wardrobe

Kurt Vonnegut

Dressing for God

Familiar Clothing from Past Lives

Fashion Forecast: 1970

Meter Maids

Spaces: furniture

Show and Tell:

Media Massages

Do It Sewing

Botanicas: religion

Dr.Eatgood

Supermarket: people,shoulderbags,interior design,knit,leather

Cosmic Couture: inexpensive clothes

APRIL 1971 TOTAL PAGES:§Q_

 

 

Drugstore: hair myths,lie detectors

Cosmic News: acne

Platters: music

On the Street: haircutting,sprotswear designing, celebrities,

afake furs,sex,hair care,costumes

Haute Pants

Splish,Splash, I Was Taking A Nap: waterbed

Hair and the Law

31 Hairy Tips from the Czar of Long Locks

Camera

Lost Illusions: barbers

They Call Him Mr. Hairspray

Spaces: furniture designing

San Francisco's Establishment Dandies: fashion for men

Show and Tell: sewing machines, health food

Media Massages: celebrities, magazines, movies

Dr.Eatgood

Follicle Follies: recycled hair

Supermarket: t-shirts,stockings,embroidery, weaving,cosmetics,
, designing,food,clothing stores,accessories

Common Cents

MAY 1971 TOTAL PAGES 11

 

Drugstore: FDA,hair

Platters: music

On the Street: celebrities,co—hab.living,fabric designing,
underwear,birds,clOthing,symphonies

PAGE
**22
**25

**32
**41
**44

*46
*50
**53
*54
**56
**58
**61
*62
**63

*76

PAGE

**4
*6
**10
**22
*27
*38
*41
**42
*46
*50
**52
*54
**58
*68

81

MAY 1971 con't.

 

Since I Started Wearing Neckties My Posture is Better and
I Stand Up Straighter,Too.
It's All Academic: a study of America's two most influential
schools of fashion design
What Corpses are Wearing
Tips to Tell Your Travel Agent: travel and clothes
Fondling and Kissing in Rural Upper Volta: Africa and
western dress
Where and How to Sneak a Smoke
Dollogy: dolls
Sewing
Show and Tell: growing plants
The Survival of the Fittest: clothes pollution
Media Massages: films,books and beauty
Dr.Eatgood
Camping
Supermarket: funky feet, hot pants,leather, organic food,
beads,food,perfume,tie-dying
Common Cents: finances

JUNE 1971 TOTAL PAGES:§§_

 

Drugstore: acne

Platters: music

On the Street: fashion show, hair,food,dogs

Men's Makeup

Fascinating WOmanhood

Getting Married

How I Exchanged My Unwanted Wedding Gifts for Cold Hard Cash
Thw Bride Biz

If You're So Smart Why Did You Get Married?

Ecology: tools and toys

Show and Tell: health foods

Cosmic News: gurus

Supermarket: cowskin,suede,shoes,jeans,block prints,boat tours
It's All Over Now: letter

APPENDIX III

82

APPENDIX III

ARTICLE AND FEATURE
REFERENCES TO CLOTHING

nit

 

RAGS VOGUE fi
clothing 78 shampoos/hair 30
hair 11 cosmetics/ 39
cosmetics 12 skin care
shoes 9 face care 10
leather 9 perfume/cologne g
health/weight exercises 8

exercises 7 face cream/
handmade speciality moisturizers 5

items 6 complexion/acne 4
tatoos 5 beauty 4
designers 5 body 3
beads 5 patterns 2
perfume 3 eyes 2
complexion/acne 5 models 1
fabric designing 3 powder 1
fashion shows 3 designers 1
breasts 1 tatoos 1
socks 1
applique l
facial saunas 1"
beauty contest 1
nudity 1
handicrafts 1
aniline dyes 1
beauty 4
boutiques 1
n*

Indicates the number of times the item was mentioned.

APPENDIX IV

8.

83

APPENDIX IV

DIRECTIONS TO CODERS
ON VALUE SELECTION

Provide the information requested on the coding sheet attached
(name, issues analyzing).

To guide your analysis of the magazine, familiarize yourself with
definition of a value provided on the coding sheet.

Carefully read the entire instrument ( this includes the adver-
tisements) so that you are thoroughtly familiar with the content.

The purpose of your analysis is to allow the researcher to develop
value categories for Rags and Vogue that are mutually exclusive
and exhaustive. Both instruments contain many possible value
units. Values will be recognized by any number of "key words".

For example, success is a value; this may be recognized by such
key words as money, expensive, a Dior original, or jet-set.

After thoroughly reading both magazines, list on the coding
provided those values that you feel are exemplified by each
individual magazine. There is not limit to the number of values
you wish to list.

Indicate in the space provided a few key words that enabled you
to determine the value.

Re-evaluate your list of values for Rags and Vogue. You may need
to combine any values that seem to be redundant. '

Next to each value, give your definition of how you are using
the value.

The care reading of the instruments and of the definition provided on
values will increase the validity and the reliability of this study.
Your willingness to participate in this study is immensely appreciated.

84

List pf_Value Responses
from Jurors

 

 

Coder

Coder

#1
Rags: November 1970

back to nature
economy

non-law abiding
identification
openness and honest
earthiness
individuality
frankness
practicality

11g

Rags: June 1971

Vogue: November 1,1970
wealth

individuality
versatility

Vogue: June 1971

economy sexual attractiveness
anti-establishment money
comfort fashion
originality good taste
good health youth
ecology beauty
Coderdfig

Coder

Rags: February 1971

Vogue: February 1,1971

individuality/uniqueness beauty .
sexuality luxury/social elite
anti-establishment feminity

freedom of expression
cultural interests

1g

Raga: October 1970
anti-bigness

honesty

simplification

anti-self improvement
respect for old or recycled

Vogue: October 1,1970

money
beauty-aesthetics
trust-security

excitement for exotic places
happiness and romance
physical fitness

APPENDIX V

85

APPENDIX V

Rags and Vogue Acknowledgements

Rags

Published: Baron Wolman
Editor: Mary Peacock
Fashion Editor: Tom Wommack
Editor-at-Large: Blair Sabo
Art Directors: Alfred Marty
Barbara Kruger
Contributing
editors: Barbara Birdfeather
John Burks
Daphne Davis
Dorothy Kapstein
Blanche Sands
Joan Shepard
Editorial assistants: Jeffrey Ann Rose
Reine Valoir
Los Angeles correspondent: Ashley West
London correspondent: Brigid Keenan
Advertising editor: Jerry Mander
Advertising manager west: Kristin Hill

Editorial and advertising offices: 746 Brannan St., San Francisco, and
30 East 20th St., New York City.

Six Mbnth's Statement
for 1 July '70 throught 31 Dec.'70*

 

 

INCOME EXPENSES
Single copy sales...$36,36l.21 Production and Shipping...$61,024.01
(.60¢ per copy) General Office Expenses
Subscriptions ....... $ 4,458.48 including salaries ...... $77,452.31
Advertising ..... ....$43,280.45
Total Inccome....$80,100.14 Total Expenses ......... ($58,376.18)
Total number of subscriptions:
590
Total number of newstand sales:
9090

 

A
financial information located in Rags issue number 12, May 1971.

86

Vogue

Editor-in—Chier: Diana Vreeland
Art Director: Allene Talmey
Managing Editor: Rosemary Blackmon
Feature Editor: Kate Lloyd
Special Feature

editor: Margaret Case
Associate Editor,

fashion: Grace Mirabella
Publisher: Richard A. Shortway

Executive editor: Ruth McCarthy
Promotion director: J.Herbert Silverman
Marketing director: Barbara McKibbin
Merchandising director: Katherine Downes
Beverly Purcel
Patricia Howie
Jacqueline Leve

Copyright by the Conde-Nash Publications, Inc., Vogue incorporating
Vanity Fair is published semi-monthly, except for the months of

May, June, July, and December, when it is published monthly, by the
Conde-Nash publications inc., 420 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY.10017.

British Vogue
Vogue House, Hanover Square, London, W.1

 

French Vogue
4 Place due Plaise-Bourbon, Paris 7

 

Australian Vague
49 Clarence Street, Sydney

 

Italian Vogue
Piazza Castello 27, Milan

 

Subscription Rates

 

one year ................. $10.00
two years .............. ..$17.00
three years .............. $22.00
newstand rates ........... $ 1.00

single subscription rates $ .75

APPENDIX VI

\/

87

 

 

 

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88

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TIRED HAIR: Finncy, head hair-
dresser to Miles Davis. Jimi Hendrix,
Carlos Santana (and many women,
too), gets ovcrproccsscd or breaking
hair back together with Fcrmadol—a
conditioner made from a Belgian for-
mula containing high protein cow pla-
centa. Comes in four types for your
particular problem. Three treatments
for about 51, only at beauty supply
stores.

DOWN TO THERE: A lot of folks
with long fine wispy hair claim it
shines more and splits less when they
use \Vindsor shampoo. Helene Curtis

says Windsor—sold only in beauty.

supply stores—has a lustering agent
that's held in colloidal suspension till
the shampoo hits water, then it goes
right into the hair shaft. (Their com-
pany is supposed to have been the
first to market Shampoo, soap actually
made for hair, in the 1930‘s.) Less
than $1.50 for a pint of concentrate
that makes a whole gallon.

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GET IT OUT: Hair conditioners can
put new life into tired hair. But the
prescribed time for keeping the 51qu
in the hair is enough. lf not thoroughly
rinsed out. the chemicals in the condi—
tioncrs can leave the hair cvcn ratticr
than before. Advice from Paul Mc-
Gregor, the any-sex hair man on St.
Mark‘s Place. New York.

END OF THE LINE: That hard black
line around the eye that made all girls
look like sloppy second Elizabeth
Taylors Is no more. Eyelids are now
painted with color—especially lavender.
purple or violet. The idea is to make
eyes look soft and catablc. Sable Plum
or Damson Plum bv Revlon. $5.

    

BEAUTY WITHOUT CRUELTY:
Vegetarians and those who avoid skins
and furs might be interested in the line
of cosmetics and perfumes from Lady
Dowding‘s Beauty Without Cruelty. 49
Upper Montague St. London W l.Thcy
contain no animal products and have
not been tested on laboratory animals.

 

GREASE IT: “Nothing is good with-
out a little grease." says Tina Turner.
And has Tina ever steered you wrong?
Every girl needs a jar of Petroleum
jelly (Vaseline—a popular brand) to
grease hcr eyelids or her checks or any
other place that needs a little.

SL’CKING ON C: Smoking and air

pollution all cause :1 deficit of vitamin
C in the body. Aside from downing the
usual quarts of orange juice or taking
your same old vitamin C pills in the
morning. try Accrola—thc chewable C
tab. So good._ many C freaks suck on
them all day in place of Lifesavers or
Certs. Warning: chewing more than 6
causes immediate heartburn. Rcmcm-
bcr. C is ascorbic acid and an overdose
can cause your stomach to hallucinatc.

BATH GELS: If you want to soften
your Skin in the bath and not come out
oily or with dead skin falling off during
towcling. there are some bath gels that
do just that. Rainbath by Neutrogcna.
Super Shower by Home Bell and RRP
Bath Gcl are three that leave the skin
Soft. have :1 chnt that fades away
quickly and require no after lotion.

CHEER FOR TEARS: Did you know
that crying is a desalting process? Salt
is an agent of metabolism excitement.
Crying can work as a soothing. quiet-

ing 'tranquilizer. That’s why so many
little kids cry themselves to sleep. So
relauc . . . with a good cry.

ROSY CHEERS: A rouge that really
stays on till you wash it off is Clini-
que's Wild Rose gel (55), hypo-aller-
genic and natural on all shades of
skin.

Transparent stick blushers contain
war that clogs pores and causes break-
ing out, plus a dye, which isn't very
good either. Max Factor's Face
Glazers have the lowest wax and dye
content. according to Gail Mauphy of
the Makeup Center, 150 W 55 St,
NYC. Peach. pink and bronze col-
ors, $3.

PINK EYES: The look of the new
eyeshadow colors— purple, pink, or-
ange and yellow—almost lives up to
the gumdrop names always given to
cosmetic colors. There's Mauve Mist.
Smokey Apricot, Black Ruby and
Plum Raisin (Estee Lauder, SS), and
two-tone Crystal Peach/Melba Peach,
Plumrose/Orchidaceous and Lemon-
lime/ Canary (Revlon, $5).

 

 

 

IN THE CLEAR: When smoke goes
to your head or gets in your eyes,
you can at least clear up the red with
eye drops. They contain a soothing -
agent (like tears) and a dccongestant
that shrinks red capillaries. Visinc and
Murine, two of the favorites, have
different decongestants. It might'takc
a few tries with various brands to find
the particular formula that works best
with your eyes. r9

 

 

 

RAGS/I

89

”1

 

 

 

nukl
fashions, etc. for ladies

1315 grant ave 2436 telegraph

firfirflr'firi‘r

THESE ARE LITTLE
BOXES FOR LITTLE AD-
VERTISERS WHO CAN’T
A F F O R D A LOT OF
MONEY. WE WILL RE-

%
Wfitfififi MEWS

 

 

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sagsxzrfiricéico 3:54:13; PRODUCE YOUR BUSI- 5m saa~c.s_c_g_
CALIFORNIA 94102

NESS CA R D OR SET

TALES OF HOFFMAN YOUR SHORT COPY. DO

Funky imported shoes
for men 8. women
41 St. Mark’s Place, NYC
473-9718

NOT GIVE US MORE
THAN YOUR BOX WILL
HOLD. WE WON‘T BREAK
THE LINES.

4444a

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gil s pan
3 Bob- ./ {Pfxfnus 3U
THE MEN'S SHOP
8491 SUNSET BOULEVARD
LOS ANCELES, CALIFORNIA 90069
PHONE 656-3822

 

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434 PAClFlC
989-3755
SAN FRANClSCO

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TEL 355 1029
244E GOSTNYC

ANI ll \ \lAN‘.“
destgns fer

[Ali IA llAN‘lr

333 East 9th Street
Newvork 10003
Tel 20778-7880

GRANNY
TAKES A TRIP '

 

NEW YORK
304 Z. 62MB

LONDON
488 KINGS RD.

 

 

 

 

BERKELEY

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

APPENDIX VII

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Face Lift

'iginatetl in Europe
Gives Face

anger Smootlmess

primip/t of the commit-face
is rational and simple. 1!
Hit advantage: of result—
inly tell/tom rifle—no Ill/-
2;, no lxeaav expense, no
‘ng/a/cr on. lbur it]: can I):
rmmmzl m_vo u want :t [0 be.

How To Get It
For Yourself

all amount of 3nd Deon! over
face and neck after cleansing,
'our lift begins. There is no
ig—no stretching the skin—
titling—nothing more than
delightful few minutes each
before retiring. Instead of
lg" your face in the usual
you will accomplish a similar
by actually lifting tnc harsh
‘esigns. These areas include
railed, worrisome lines. Sup-
cs:- surface area~ with water-
are as done by the CI‘LF in-
nt in 2nd {mu and those
are first sot-tented, then
hcd. Only 3227! Dam has
Cellular Expansion Factor).

.5 available in the U.S.A. in
trn of a non-greasy, Lightly
cd emulsion lain-led hid
’. You can get it in two
fies; 2nd Helm! with double
3' CEl" 1200 for any age in
ry, like important engage-
Within the next Week. This
pink 31;.1' mm. This Cl‘ll"
iillm the favorite of women
titty-five with really \t'flOUS
tax. The ivory colored Clil"
it! Drt'm.’ is the orizvinal 2nd
and is for the woman under
'fiVC. Either will keep any
Hooking younger than her
..'\ new instant acting
er and nomah‘oholic skin
k'r complete the -’;..: Deon!
ltm‘ Look for these and
line 321.! [Mm products at
department and drug <tores.

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For It‘s her muscles she's toning—neck. back. and tummy: the smart belle with ll"
bell above. It's her total body complexion she's working on. via a disarmin.
'get-up-arid.gl0w program that Ceminesse is unleashing right in the nick of sum.
. . . We've already encountered. extolled the innovations of the Centinesao
10,108 Fitness Plan by Max Factor. Now with equal thoroughness and another staun-
of smoothers and doers. Ceminesse tackles the polishing of the body. A body
cream. thick with thoughtful conditiori'ers and emollients. zeroes in on rough ~
Activating Body Cleanser, a gel-like lotion, tenderly substitutes for soap. cl
deep in bath or shower. . . . For the smooth leg detail. Leg Conditioning Stici.
both giddy glister and a very serious shield against weather wither. . . . With
ingredients for visible fitness come gratis some makings of pit} sical fitness: t-

pink inflatable Body Belle, shown in action above. and the Ceminesse “mi.

Exercise Book. The idea is that in less titan six minutes a day you can work

important muscle of the body. It’s a new exercise system. Kittestlietics. which i.
developed, with the help of a noted physical medicine man. Requiring no sp-
or dress. Kinesthetics are so temptingly ell'ortless and steamless that the bud}

might be your very lazy own. . . .

Judy She‘s as warm and full of unexpected deliciousness as an old-fashimw: l'ZnFl“

“I'll":

in a new cut by Alan Purver who coils almost exclusively for fashion pllnlu;t‘.:jtll_\'3

makeup subtle and sepia with her own version of the 1920's Vamp eye: and her uJ'

rnln-I fn“ nf fnid-(‘nlf Skirt lt‘l""l“‘. l'k‘» ”In cl'innincl Cl;nl':a.c. LI.\..I- ..-."nn I

Christmas pudding. We remembered Judy Carrie. the "Sock-it-to-.\Ie" girl of tn-ic-vhiofi'

paint. But Judy, who left beautiful downtown Burbank for Broadway at: ttu- .‘IJI‘

the latest revival of The Boyfriend, is something else. Her hair is sensationally sin?-

 

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APPENDIX VIII

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Do you sometimes get up in the
morning and stare blankly into your
closet? Do you feel manipulated every
time you read fashion news? Would
you prefer to use clothes instead of
having them use you?

 

 

Elaine Grove, an actress/illustrator
living in New York, takes her fash-
ion inspiration from the likes of
Virginia Woolf and Gertrude Stein.
”They both had a funny, austere

 

Perhaps we are all arriving at the
difference between fashion and style;
the difference between a dictate imposed
from above, and a style that is practical,
pleasurable, and an expression of an
individual person.

liagsi a new monthly tabloid, is
devoted to the idea that clothes can be

Piecing Together a Personal Style

sense of clothing, with little
touches used so sparingly that they
became noticeable." Other ideas
come from old photographs,
Nijinsky’s Ballets Russe, and old

5‘ V. " "—'b

           
      
 
  

practical, individual, and fun. It will
offer buyers’ tips, lifestyle reporting,
backstage exposés of the fashion world,
and a wide variety of clothes ideas
(new, secondhand, self-recycled, and
innovative combinations thereof) for
this long neglected or distorted part of
our lives. The first national sneak pre-
view of R133 follows.

   

 

movies (Renoir's “Rules of the
Game"). What she looks for in
fashion is ”humor—to make you
and others feel good.”

—Carol Troy

 

 

 

iii H mm

game
so: ‘35“ “(mm

Some people eat a lot when they
get depressed. Some drink. Me? I
go to a thrift shop where the usu-
ally dingy atmosphere plus the
heaping stacks of discarded
dreams invariably cheer me up. I
rarely come away without making

a purchase and I feel elated know-r

ing that someone’s abandoned
shmatta is going to be the fashion
hit of my next social event.

There are many often over-
looked pluses of thrift-shop shop-
ping: you are rarely snubbed or
pressured, and the lost art of bar-
gaining still lives in many, al-
though not all, thrift shops. (One
note of caution—if you have found
a pair of cobraskin pumps for $7
and you’ve bargained down to $3,
it’ s unwise to whip out a $50 bill to

 

 

 

 

 

You can improve your thrift
shop score by:
OStarting early. Most shops close
by 4 RM.
OGetting an immediate sense of
price (a hat for a nickel is cheap).
0Not getting discouraged because
a shop has nothing to suit you one
day. New merchandise is always
being brought out. '
0Accepting that the best bargains

 

 

are in the messiest stores.
OGoing alone—unless you have a
very patient friend.

ONever putting off till tomorrow a
good buy—it won’t be there when
you come back.

0Remembering that most shops
are not equipped with try-on
rooms. So, wear either very tight or
very baggy clothes for ”discreet”

try-ons.

 

pay for them.)
idem
€01 ffie By Ingeborg Day

There's a system called COST PER
WEAR. CPW—as opposed to what you ini-
tially spend on an item of clothing—is what
the item costs you to wear, each and every
time. '

Consider the greatly reduced purple
evening dress, a wonderful bargain at
$29.95, bought for a New Year's Eve party

‘ F' 1"." \N.‘ \wv:
. 7r I? ‘ fixfi
I'- (SPF:

and somehow never right for anything else
again.
$29.95
__1 wearing = CPW $29.95

Consider, on the other hand, a simple.
solid-color shirt (maybe silk—most silks,
despite label instructions, are hand washa-
ble in cold water) that goes with almost
everything you own. When you arrived
home, remorse over the $40 price tag almost
prompted you to take the shirt back to the

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94

store. Worn once a week for a year . . .
“0 -
52 wearings - CPW $ 0‘76
And a black or neutral skirt in a tightly
woven wool or crepe (which can be worn
year round) that sets you back an appalling
$80. Worn twice a week for one year . . .
$80
104 wearings = CPW $ 0.76
The combined CPW of the outfit is $1.52.
That’s the bargain compared to $29.95.

 

 

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‘TUFF THAT ' "ALLY WORKS

The Magik Brush: the best lint and
dog-hair remover I’ve ever found.
Brush in the direction the arrow
points, and it removes all lint.
Brush the wrong way and it puts it
all back on the clothes (which is the
way you clean the brush: stroke the
“wrong” way on a fabric remnant).
Made by Helmac; available at five
and dime stores; about $2.
Meltonian Shoe Cream: recom-
mended by most fine shoe stores
because it is a soft cream that is
worked into the leather and will
not dry it out or produce waxy
buildup. Available at shoe repair
shops; two-ounce tube, about $1.
Wooden shoe trees: any brand.

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BY PUCCI MEYER

   

MMA IN TEN/4 NOE

 

Only wood, says the salesclerk
from Brooks Brothers, will absorb
perspiration, reshape the shoe,
and take out that tired look. Un-
finished cedarwood trees for
women available at Saks Fifth Av-
enue, New York, New York 10022;
$6.50 (plus tax and shipping where
applicable). Boot trees are a good
idea, too, to keep air circulating
and, to quote the salesperson at
Saks, keep the calf of the boot from
"looking like hell.” Plastic will do.
Available at most shoe-repair
shops starting at about $1.75. Or
make your own by tightly rolling
newspapers into tubes held to-
gether by rubber bands.

  

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Aubrey, Roger F. Experimenting with Living: Pros and Cons. Columbus,
Ohio: Charles E. Merrill Pub. Co. 1973.

 

Anselm, Strauss L. Mirrors and Masks. Glencoe, 111.: The Free Press.
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Becker, Howard S. Outsiders. New York: The Free Press. 1963.

erelson, Bernard. Content Analysis ig_CommunicatiQE_Rcseargh,.Glencoe:
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Borg, walter and Call, Meredith. Educational Research: £2 Introduction.
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Brown, Michael E. "Condemnation and Persecution of the Hippies", eds.~
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V,Budd, Richard W., Thorpe, Robert K., and Donohew, Lewis. Content
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DaVis, Nanette J. Sociological Construction 9f_Deviance. Dubuque, Iowa:
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Dukes, William F. "Pyschological Bulletin". Vol. 54. 1955. p.24.

Eisenstadt, S.N. "Archetypal Patterns of Youth". eds. Manning,Peter
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Erikson, Erik. Identity: Youth and Crisis. New York: Norton. 1968.

 

(eds.) Youth: Change and Challenge. New York: Basic
Books, Inc.1973.

 

 

Flacks, Richard. "Social and Cultural Meanings of Student Revolt:
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. Youth and Social Change, Chicago: Markham Pub.Co.1971.

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96

97

Glessing, Robert J. The Underground Press ig_America. Bloomington,
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Harvey, Duston. "Rags Breaks Rules Concerning Dress Advice". The
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Keniston, Kenneth. The Uncommitted. New York: Harcourt, Brace, and
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Klapp, Orrin E. Collective Search for Identity, New York: Holt, Rine-
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Leamer, Laurence. The Paper Revolutionaries: The Rise gf the Under-
ground Press. New York: Simon and Schuster. 1972.

 

 

Lewis, Roger. Outlaws 9f_America: The Underground Press and Its
Content. Bloomington, Indiana: Indiana University Press. 1970.

 

Norris, Charles. Varieties 9£_Human Value. Chicago: University of
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Nelson, Jack L. Values and Society. Rochelle Park, New Jersey:
Hayden Book Co., Inc. 1975.

 

Partridge, William L. The Hippie Ghetto: The Natural History gf-g
Sub-culture. New York: Holt, Rinehart, and Winston, Inc. 1973.

 

 

x/Pool, Ithiel de Sola (ed.) Trends ig_Content Analysis. Urbana:
“"‘” University of Illinois Press. 1959.

Precker, Joseph. "Similarity of Values as a Factor in Selection of
Peers and Near Authority Figures". Journal g£_Abnormal Social
Psychology. Vol.47. 1952. p.406-414.

 

 

Reich, Charles A. The Greening_9£_America. New York: Bantam Books. 1972.

 

Rinsberger, Boyce. "Experts Consider Calling Society". New York Times.
Nov. 13, 1975. p.39.

 

,r

{y/Roach, Mary Ellen and Eicher, Joanne. Visible Self. Englewood Cliffs,
\\ : - _ . . In “ .
. New Jersey Prentice Hall, Inc 1973 Cf f; 0d ' (S )1

 

Rokeach, Milton. "A Theory of Organization and Change Within Value
Attitude Systems". Journal of Social Issues. Vol.XXXIV, No.1.1968.

Rosak, Thomas. The Making 9f.a-Counter-Culture. Garden City, New York:
Doubleday Books. 1969.

 

 

Rushing, William A. Deviant Behavior and Social Processes. Vanderbilt
Rand McNally College Co. 1971.

 

98

_ Schultz, William A. "On Categorizing Data in Content Analysis".
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”Simmel, George. "Fashion". American Sociological Journal. Vo..LXII,
, No.6,May 1957. p.541-558.

Williams, Robin M.jr. American Sociepy a Sociological Interpretation.
New York: Alfred A. Knaft. 1952.

 

 

Wakefield, Dan. "The War at Home". Atlantic Monthly. October. 1969.

 

UNPUBLISHED THESES

Banks, Robert. A Content Analysis pf Elementary American Histopy
‘ Textbooks: The Treatment p£_the Negro and Race Relations.
Unpublished Ph.D. Dissertation: Michigan State University. 1969.

 

 

 

Beech, Robert Paul. Values Systems, Attitudes, and Interpersonal
Attractions. Unpublished Ph.D. Dissertation: Michigan State
University. 1968.

 

 

Boger, Gerd. A Content Analysis 9§_Se1ective Childrenlg Books pp.
Negro and Qp_Japan. Unpublished Ph.D. Dissertation: Michigan
State University. 1966.

 

Garber, William Edward. A Content Analysis p£_Two Religious Oriented
Magazines for College Students. Unpublished Masters Thesis:
Michigan State UniVersity. 1967.

 

 

 

Parks, Oral Eugene. The Evaluation Assertion Analysis pg §_Method
p£_Content Analysis. Unpublished Ph.D. Dissertation: Michigan
State University. 1960.

 

 

Sellers, Larry J. A_Content Analysis pf_Radio News Progpamming‘ip
Portland, Oregon Area. Unpublished Masters Thesis: Michigan
State University: 1966.

 

 

 

Sweatt, Susan. The Role p£_Dress ip_the Hip-Subculture: 1966 -1970.
Unpublished Masters Thesis: Michigan State University: 1975.

HICHI IES

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3