CLOTHING As RELATED To ROLE BEHAVIOR. OF mum GRADE GIRLS That's {93$ flu Dagny ' of M. A; MICHIGAN STAT-E UNIVERSITY“ Betty 'Magtguserite Wa$$~ ‘1 9 62. . o a ‘ .$- . . o .. v o y .nyxt.o1(«50?983‘"*§“"*E1L§3§' ‘ LIBRAR Y Michigan Sta te University Betty M. Wass ABSTRACT CLOTHING AS RELATED To ROLE BEHAVIOR OF NINTH GRADE GIRLS The main area of investigation of this study was clothing as related to the role behavior of ninth grade girls. The objectives of the problem were outlined as follows: 1. to determine what ninth grade girls feel constitute appropriate or ideal clothing for typical adolescent roles. 2. to determine the actual clothing practices of ninth grade girls in these roles. 3. to determine the relationships between ninth grade girls' ideal clothing practices. actual clothing practices, and roles assumed. 4. to obtain ninth grade girls' opinions about the relationship of clothing to behavior. Ideal and actual clothing practices were examined in con- junction with background factors, clothing awareness, clothing satisfaction, and self-satisfaction. A questionnaire was developed as the means of ob- taining information and was administered in East Lansing, Michigan-a community of predominately young, highly educated. extremely mobile, white collar inhabitants. One hundred fifty- two of the ninth grade girls completed the questionnaire. Betty M. Wass Ideal and actual clothing behavior was explored in four roles assumed to be typical of teen-agers. Their typi- cality was substantiated because a majority of girls in the sample took part in each role. The girls indicated garments they could ideally wear and garments they had actually worn in each of the four roles. Discrepancies between ideal and actual clothing be- havior were noted, and the sum of an individual's discrep- ancies was called her variant score. The score was used in analysis of other variables, two of which were the awareness and satisfaction scores. Little significance was found between them and the variant score. The awareness score was a measurement of the girls‘ sensitivity to clothing and frequency of participation in activities indicating interest in clothing. The relationship between clothing awareness and clothing satisfaction was highly significant. Girls with high clothing awareness were apt to have middle to high clothing satisfaction while girls rating low in awareness also had low satisfaction. The clothing satisfaction score was a compilation of questions asking how well-dressed the girls felt. In general. they thought they were as well-dressed as the average girl in their age group or better dressed than average. However, the degree of satisfaction they expressed with their clothing varied from role to role. Betty M. wass Clothing behavior was initially assumed to be an in- herent part of role performance. The girls' opinions gave evidence that the assumption was valid. They implied that their actions in all roles were affected by their dress. Over eighty per cent of the sample said certain clothes caused them to act a certain way. A change in dress often accompanies a change in role and may even be the cause of role change or vice versa. Role and dress are integrated to the degree that certain roles require specific dress, and girls who do not have the proper dress may refuse to take part in the role or may wish they had not taken part. A minority of girls said they were unaffected by dress requirements. The consensus of ninth graders' opinions reveals that clothes may make them feel self-confident, more grown-up. better behaved, and more comfortable. These findings aid in the understanding of the relationship of clothing to adolescent girls' behavior. CLOTHING AS RELATED TO ROLE BEHAVIOR OF NINTH GRADE GIRLS BY Betty Marguerite Wass A THESIS Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts 1962 / ) ax .7 F. " 1:9 f 3' 5 x7 .5 (.7 4-: 1 ,1 f2/4yfigf' ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation to Dr. Joanne Bicher for spending countless hours directing the thesis, as well as providing understanding and encourage- ment: to Dr. Mary Gephart and Mrs. Prederica Neville for their thoughtful suggestions and criticisms of the entire project: to hrs. Marilyn DeLong and the home economics students in Charlotte for their participation in the pre- test: and to Mr. Jack Downs and the ninth grade girls of last Lansing for their cooperation in the final adminis- tration of the questionnaire. The writer would also like to express gratitude to fellow graduate students who frequently were called upon for assistance. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ‘ACKNOIBEDGHENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii LIST OF TABLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii Chapter I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Statement of the Problem Review of the Literature Summary of Review of Literature II. METHODOLOGY . . . . . . . o o . . . . . . . 16 Instrument Statistical Techniques The Community and the Sample Pretest Administration of Instrument III. IDEAL AND ACTUAL CLOTHING CHOICES, COMPARISONS AND VARIAMS O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 29 Ideal Clothing for Four "Typical" Roles Actual Clothing for Four "Typical" Roles Comparison of Ideal and Actual Clothing Choices Variants between Ideal and Actual Clothing Choices Chi-Square Analysis of Variants as Related to Clothing Awareness and Satisfaction Clothing Satisfaction Concerning Actual Choices Summary of Ideal and Actual Clothing Behavior IV. CLOTHING RELATED TO BEHAVIOR . . . . . . . 52 Student Opinions Chi-Square Analysis of Clothing as Related to Behavior Summary of Clothing Related to Behavior vi Page Chapter V. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS . 65 Summary and Conclusions Recommendations APPENDIX A The Questionnaire, Part I . . . . . . . 71 APPENDIX B The Questionnaire, Part II . . . . . . 76 APPENDIX C Tables Referred to But Not Included in Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 BIBLIOGRAPHY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 vii Table 10. 11. 12. LIST OF TABLES Clothing Awareness Scores of Ninth Grade Girls Showing Distribution and Number of Girls with Each Score . . . . . . . . . . . Distribution of Clothing Satisfaction Scores on Present Wardrobe of Ninth Grade Girls . . Education of Heads of Families of Ninth Grade Girls 0 O O O O 0 O O 6 I O O O O O O O O 0 Occupational Ranking of Heads of Families of Ninth Grade Girls . . . . . . . . . . . . . Religious Preference of Ninth Grade Girls . Opinions of Ninth Grade Girls Regarding Ideal Clothing for Four Typical Roles: School, Home, Basketball Game, and Church . . , , , Practices of Ninth Grade Girls Regarding Actual Clothing for Four Typical Roles: School, Home, Basketball Game, and Church . Range of Variant Scores for Ninth Grade Girls Based on Number of Roles to Which They Responded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Distribution of the Number of Variants of Ninth Grade Girls in Four Roles . . . . . . Comparison of Ninth Grade Girls' Actual and Ideal Skirt Choices for School Wear as Produces on 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Satisfaction of Ninth Grade Girls with Entire Wardrobe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Number and Percentage Distribution of Ninth Grade Girls with Clothing Satisfaction in Specific Roles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii Page 19 20 24 25 25 30 35 42 43 44 46 48 Table 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. Reasons Given by Ninth Grade Girls for Dissatisfaction With School Wear . . . . . . Distribution of Ninth Grade Girls' Responses to the Question, "Should a School Have Rules Concerning Dress?" . . . . . . . . . . . . . Distribution of Positive Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, "What are the School Dress Rules and Regulations?" ? .7. . Distribution of Ninth Grade Girls' Responses to the Question, "Who Made Dress Rules?" . . Distribution of Positive Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, "Do You Feel Differently Dressed Up?" . . . . . . . . . . Distribution of Positive Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, "Do Students Act Differently Dressed Up?" . . . . . . . . Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question, "When You Got Home From School Yesterday Did You Change Clothes?" . . . . . Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question, "If You Went to a Basketball Game With a Boy, Would You Dress Differently From the Way You Dress When You Go With Girls?" . . . Distribution of Negative Responses to the Question, "If you Went to Church, Did You Feel That You Were Dressed Appropriately in Your outfit? '. O O O O 0 I O O O O O O O O O O O 0 Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question, "Have You Ever Refused to Go Any Place Because You Felt You Didn't Have the Right Clothes to Wear?" . . . . . . . . . . Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question, "Have You Ever Wished You Hadn't Gone Some Place Because Your Clothes Weren't Right?" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Distribution of Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, "Do Certain Clothes Cause You to Act a Certain Way?" . . . . . . ix Page 49 53 53 S4 55 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 Table 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. Association of Weighted Clothing Satis- faction Scores and Variant Scores . . . . . Association of Weighted Clothing Awareness Scores and Variant Scores . . . . . . . . . Association of Weighted Scores on Clothing SatiBfECtion and Clothing Awareness . . . . Association of Responses to the Question. “Generally How Do You Feel About Your Wardrobe?". and Weighted Clothing Satis- faction Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, ”Check the Category Which Comes Closest to Your Feeling About Yourself," and Weighted Clothing Satisfaction Scores . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "How Well Do You Usually Feel You are Dressed for Any Occasion?", and Variant Scores . . . Association of Responses to the Question, “Have You Ever Wished You Hadn“t Gone Some Place Because Your Clothes Weren't Right?", and Variant Scores. . . . . . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "Have You Ever Refused to Go Any Place Because You Felt You Didn't Have the Right Clothes to Wear?", and Variant Scores . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "Do You Feel Any Differently on School Days When You are Especially Dressed Up Than You Do On Ordinary School Days?", and Variant Scores . Association of Responses to the Question, "Do You Ever Feel That Certain Types of Clothes Cause You to Act a Certain Way?", and Variant Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "Have You Ever Wished You Hadn't Gone Some Place Because Your Clothes weren't Right?", and Weighted Clothing Satisfaction Scores Page 88 89 90 91 91 92 92 93 93 94 94 Table 36. 37. 38. 39. 40e Association of Responses to the Question. “Have You Ever Refused to Go Any Place Be- cause You Felt You Didn°t Have the Right Clothes to wear?", and Weighted Clothing Satisfaction Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "Do You Feel Any Differently on School Days When You are Especially Dressed Up Than You Do on Ordinary School Days?", and Weighted Clothing Satisfaction Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "Do You Feel Any Differently on School Days When You are Especially Dressed Up Than You Do on Ordinary School Days?”, and Weighted Clothing Awareness Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Association of Responses to the Question, "Have You Ever Wished You Hadn‘t Gone Some Place Because Your Clothes Weren’t Right?", and Weighted Clothing Awareness Scores . . . Association of Responses to the Question. "Have You Ever Refused to Go Any Place Because You Felt You Didn°t Have the Right Clothes to Wear?", and Weighted Clothing Awareness Scores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi Page 95 95 96 97 98 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Statement of the Problem That conduct is largely the performance of a series of roles in a variety of situations is a well-accepted fact,1 as is the fact that these roles are learned. Within a given group or community an individual has only a limited set of alternatives from'which to choose in performing a particular role"?2 for society restricts the choice.g Sociologists feel that role choice presents many conflicts to the teen-ager making this period of life especially difficult. During adolescence when role choices become a matter of great concern, it is interesting to note that clothing also becomes a matter of utmost importance.3 The purpose of this study was to investigate relationships of clothing and role in teenoage life. The specific objectives of the study follow: 1Kingsley Davis, Human Society (New‘York: The MacMillan Co.. 1948), p. 90. . 2121d., p. 93. 3Elizabeth Hurlock, Adolescent Deyelopggnt (New York: McGrawbHill Book Co., Inc., 1955). P. 216. to determine what adolescents feel constitutes appropriate or ideal clothing for typical adolescent roles. to determine the actual clothing practices of adoles- cents in these roles. to determine the relationships between adolescents' ideal clothing practices, actual clothing practices, and roles assumed. to obtain adolescents‘ opinions about the relation- ships of clothing to behavior. Review of the Literature No studies have been done, up to this point, re- lating teenage role and behavior. Therefore, the review of literature applies as background information, and has been divided into four classifications. The writings reviewed discuss role in general, the adolescent role, clothing and adolescence. and clothing and behavior. Role Role as used by George Herbert Mead describes a. 1 It process of cooperative behavior and of communication. is an idea borrowed from drama which conceives of human interaction as participants playing parts. "The concept of role refers to the most intricately organized patterns of response of which the human organism is capable, i. e.. to verbally organized systems of response to an organized, sub- .2 divided. and patterned environment. Goffman says everyone is always and everywhere. more or less consciously playing a 1Alfred Lindesmith and Anselm Strauss, Social Psych- ology (New York: Henry Holt and Company. Inc.. 1956), p. 374. 21bid., p. 383. "1 Talcott Parsons says "a role then is role or ”performing. a sector of the total orientation system of an individual actor which is organized about expectations in relation to a particular interaction context, that is integrated with a particular set of value standards which govern interaction with one or more alters in the appropriate complimentary roles."2 Lindesmith and Strauss summarize the concept of role as that term which is used “to refer to complex patterns of response which are conceptually organized within a sup- porting context of other roles called 'counter-roles'.'3 In the enactment of roles, the following are essential: '1. an identification of self (what his part in the situation should be): 2. behavior in given situations which is appropriate to this identification: 3. a background of related acts by others (counter- roles) which serve as cues to guide specific per- formance. 4. an evaluation by the individual and by others, of the role enactment."4 1Erving Goffman, The Presentation of seig in Everyday Life, (Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company, Inc.. 1959). p. 23. 2Talcott Parsons, The Social System, (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1951). p. 38. 3Lindesmith and Strauss, pp. cit., p. 407. 4Lindesmith and Strauss, 92. cit., p. 385. While societies generalize concepts of roles so that they “inculcate definitions of expectation which apply to all incumbants of the type of role in question"1 each individual because of differences in basic personality structure will enact a role with some variation. Parsons notes that societies make allowance for ranges of toleration in variations ac- ceptable in role enactment. The individual may be a variant in a situation and remain within limits of toleration, whereas, towards the extremes of the range of variability of basic personality structure are those who are not variant but deviant.2 Within the limits of toleration, there may even be appreciation of individual differences in performance. The concept of variance and deviance in clothing presents an interesting aspect of this theory. It seems that there would be a wide range of variants in clothing acceptable for a role. Clothing unacceptable for a situation would fall outside of the limits of toleration and could be called deviant. .Adolescent Role Parsons states that "it is at the point of emergence into adolescence that there first begins to develop a set of patterns and behavior phenomena which involve a highly complex 1Parsons,_p. cit., p. 238. 2Parsons, _p. cit., p. 239. combination of age grading and sex role elements.”1 While some of the elements are present in pre-adolescence and others in adulthood this particular age level is unique and distinc- tive in American society. It is a time when society no longer regards the individual as a child and still does not accord him full adult status: he is expected to learn adult roles in preparation for future performance, but he is not yet given freedom to enact them. Hollingshead in his report called Elmtown's Youth calls this period of life an ill-defined no—man's-land that lies between the protected dependency of childhood where the parent is dominant, and the independent world of the adult. where the person is relatively free from parental controls. This no-man's-land is a place where the maturing person works out the extremely important developmental tasks of freeing himself from his family, making hetero- sexual adjustments, selecting a vocation, gaining an education, and-~for a considerable percentage of young Elmtowners--establishing a home of his own. In parent-child relationships, he says inconsistent definitions of personal status, rights. responsibilities, duties and roles are encountered constantly. . . . The boys and girls generally consider themselves capable of exercising adult judgment, where- as their parents and other adults usually view them as “immature children,”3 1Talcott Parsons, ”Age and Sex in U. S. Social Struc- ture," American Sociological Review, (October, 1942). p. 606. 2A. B. Hollingshead, Elmtown's Youth (New York: Science Editions. Inc., 1961), p. 148. 31bid., p. 152. and of the law, it is said there is no consistency between the way the law defines immaturity and maturity for either sex. These con- flicting definitions complicate growing up. for in one aspect of life the adolescent is considered an independent adult, whereas in another he is a dependent child.1 While Parsons feels that the youth culture has im- portant functions in easing the change from the security of childhood into the responsibilities of full adulthood, he, too. recognizes it as a period of considerable strain and insecurity.2 The significance of studying clothing behavior of adolescents increases when this period of life is recognized as a unique time of transition. Clothing andAdolescence Society allows the individual a limited set of alternatives in performing each role, and the performer partially identifies his alternative with expressive equip— ment such as: "insignia of office or rank: clothing: sex, age, and racial characteristics: size and looks: posture: speech patterns: facial expressions: bodily gestures: and the like."3 These make up non-verbal signs which set conditions 1Ibid. 2Parsons, loc. cit., p. 614. 3Goffman,_p. cit., p. 23 8 for interaction.1 Some of these are relatively fixed: others such as clothing may vary from one performance to the next. Stone explains that, "Appearance substitutes for past and present action and, at the same time, conveys an incipience -permitting others to anticipate what is about to occur. Specifically, clothing represents our action, past, present. and future, as it is established by the proposals and anticipations that occur in every social transaction. . . . This can be clearly seen in the doffing of dress, signaling that an act is done (and another act about to begin). the donning of dress, signaling the initiation of a new act, and the wearing of dress, signaling that action is going on."2 By the time youth reach the period of adolescence they are aware of approved rules related to clothing behavior in particular roles. "Likes and dislikes are markedly in- fluenced by what is in style at the moment, what is becoming to the wearer, and what the adolescent feels is appropriate for the occasion on which these clothes are to be worn."3 They are careful to wear only what is considered "correct."4 1Gregory P. Stone, "Appearance and the Self," Human Behavior and Social Processes (Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1962), p. 86. 2Ibid., p. 100. 3Elizabeth Hurlock, 92. cit., p. 220. 4Ibid., p. 221. The "correctness" or "incorrectness" of types of dress for teen-agers is largely determined by the adolescent culture. Silverman noted that among twelve to eighteen-year- olds close conformity in the style of dress for daily wear was prevalent not only within the age groups but among them, girls at twelve and at all ages through eighteen tending to dress in like fashion.1 There were only small differences in the clothing practices of girls in different economic groups: the tendency to conform was more influential than the economic factor.2 In a study of adolescent populations in ten high schools, Coleman found that having “good clothes” was more 3 important for girls than for boys. Girls ranked clothes as very important for getting into the leading crowd4 and for popularity with the opposite sex? Vener found that girls demonstrate greater clothing awareness than boys.6 -Symonds 1Sylvia S. Silverman, Clothing and Appearance: Their Ppychological Implications for Teen-Age Girls (New York: Bureau of Publications, Teachers College, Columbia University. 1945), p. 114. 2Ibid., p. 50. 3James S. Coleman, The Adolescent Society(New York: The Free Press of Glencoe, 1961). p. 37. 4Ibid. 51bid., p. 50. . 6Arthur Vener, "Adolescent Orientations to Clothing: A Social-Psychological Interpretation," (unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State University, 1957). p. 62. O 10 reported that in a study of personal problems of both boys and girls, personal appearance and attractiveness were in- dicated as major interests.1 Silverman states that “when the desires arising from this interest and the satisfaction of these desires are not compatible. difficulties develop which girls consider sufficiently serious to rank among the most weighty of their life problems."2 In a study by Flaccus, girls reported that being well- dressed made them feel more sociable and self-confident while being badly dressed made them self-conscious, uneasy, and sensitive about being seen.3 Hurlock summarizes Silverman°s study nicely sub- stantiating the previous fact: Girls who make a poor appearance as judged by their peers, have a rejecting attitude and show a tendency to respond in a characteristically negative fashion. This is especially true of social activities with the same or with the opposite sex, with school and with out-of- school activities. They dislike activities normally characteristic of their age groups, and they do not ~‘participate in such activities. ‘Furthermore they show a strong dislike for prominence and leadership activities. which is an indication of an attitude of self-effacement and low self-estimates. Girls whose appearance is judged to be good by their peers, by contrast, enjoy being with others, and par- ticipate in club and other social organizations with both girls and boys. . . . Instead of shunning prominence 1P. M. Symonds. ”Problems and Interests of Adoles- cents,” School Review. 44 (1936). PP. 506-518. 2Silverman,_p. cit., p. 2. 3Louis W; Flaccus, "Remarks on the Psychology of Clothes,” ggggogical Spainary. 13 (1906). PP. 61—83. 11 or leadership activities, they assume many of the leader- ship positions of their groups. Silverman's study included girls from twelve to eighteen years of age. ”The group as a whole, regardless of age, tended to attach considerable significance to clothing and appearance. The right clothes were a necessary concomi- tant to happiness for about three-quarters of the group.2 Clothing and appearance were used to satisfy needs or desires, such as the need for approval, the desire to be sexually at- tractive, and the need for self—confidence.3 Ryan found in a survey of high school and college girls, that high school girls more often than college girls express feelings of self-consciousness about their clothes.4 In Vener's study boys and girls whose fathers were in occu- pations of higher status tended to express sentiments of high clothing depriVation less frequently than those whose fathers are in occupations of lower status.5 It is interesting to note that Coleman found in a question regarding best-dressed girls, "the effect of not lHurlock, pp. cit., p. 479. 2Silverman,_pp. cit., p. 61. 31bid., p. 119. 4Mary S. Ryan, Psychological Effects of Clothing, Part II. "Comparison of College Students with High School Students. Rural with Urban Students, and Boys with Girls," Cornell University Agricultural Station Bulletin 898. August, 1953, p. 11. 5Vener, pp. cit., p. 63 12 being thought of as 'bestédressed' by her classmates nearly doubles a girl’s likelihood of wanting to be someone different,” and still, being thought of as best-dressed is important largely because it contributes to being popular with boys.1 For girls, the adult role which society emphasizes is that of wife and mother, and, although the adult feminine role has changed "from one of simple domesticity to one which allows occupational achievement in direct competition with men, along with it there is more emphasis on feminine ”2 attractiveness. Hurlock also says that interest in clothes is closely allied to interest in attracting the attention of the opposite sex.3 According to Hurlock, clothes have three values for the individual: utilitarian value, esthetic value, and value as a symbol of social role. To the adolescent, clothes assume the most importance as symbolism of his social role, his concept of self, and thus, his personality development.4 Clophing and Behavior Hurlock's statement that clothes serve the adolescent as a symbol of social role is interesting in light of the fact r—‘ 1Coleman,_p. cit., p. 54. 2Parsons, loc. cit.. p. 610. 3Hurlock,.gp. cit., p. 222. 41.12319” p. 479 13 that sociologists feel that role choice presents many con- flicts to the teen-ager. It seems that there may be a parallel between the adolescent's high interest in clothing and the many demands made on him concerning role choices. As role choices make up the behavior of an individual, and Clothing is a symbol of role, clothing becomes an integral part of his behavior. ‘ Writers in the clothing field have emphasized the effects of clothing on the individual. Morton states Clothes help to make us self-confident, self—respecting. jolly, free or they make us self-conscious, shy, sensi- tive, restrained. They determine how much we go into ',society, the places we go to, the exercise we take. They help us to get jobs and to hold them, to miss them and to lose them.1 De Beauvoir tells that a woman‘s humor, deportment, and facial expression may all depend on her gown: when she is not appropriately dressed she feels awkward, common, and there— fore humiliated.2 Ryan found in her sthdy that the girls most confident about their clothing tended to feel peppy and more talkative. Those less well dressed were likely to feel self-conscious and to try to keep from the center of the group.3 This study will further investigate adolescent girls' opinions about the relationships of clothing to behavior. fiv'v—r TV r— ‘v— r v V w— y—v v—r . fi—y—v . - v Vy — 'v—vv ‘vv— r—r TY 1Grace M. Morton. ”Psychology of Dress.” goupnal of Hgme Econpmics, 18 (1926). P. 584. 2Simone de Beauvoir, The Second ng (New York: Alfred A. Knopf. Inc.. 1953). p. 506. 3Mary S. Ryan, Psychological Effegts gf Clothing, Part I. “Survey of the Opinions of College Girls." Cornell University Agricultural Station Bulletin 882, September, 1952. p. 18. Summary of Review of Literature An individual's conduct is largely the performance Of a series of roles in a variety of situations. These roles are learned. Role standards to be upheld by the performer . depend on the particular society. Some variation in role performance is allowed for each person in consideration of individuals' basic personality differences, and his actions are acceptable as long as they are within limits of toleration set by society. The adolescent is in a period of life when he is learning complex role patterns and experimenting with role choices. It has been called a transitional period, and part of the transition is the shift in orientation away from parental control toward one's own peers. Conformity to the peer group becomes extremely important and is particularly noticeable in clothing behavior. (Clothing behavior of American adolescents is a phenomenon which has generated spoken and written comments from many sources. Usually this phase of adolescent behavior is briefly mentioned, but is, nevertheless, recognized as something of extreme importance to the respective age group. Clothing aids or hinders the satisfaction of needs and desires of teen-agers, especially as it serves as a symbol of social 14 15 role. By the time the youth reaches adolescence, he is aware of approved rules related to dress behavior in the performance of roles. As role choices make up the behavior of an individual. and clothing is a symbol of role, clothing not only becomes an inherent part of a person's behavior but also influences his behavior. The major premise upon which this study is based is that there is a relationship between the clothing of a teen-agar and his behavior in the roles he assumes. This is the first study of its kind as no one has previously investigated clothing related to role behavior. It is presented in five chapters. The following chapter: 'will discuss the methodology involved in developing and ad- ministering an instrument and will describe the sample. Chapter III deals with adolescents' ideal clothing choices, actual clothing choices, and variance between the choices in four typical adolescent roles. Chapter IV gives an account of adolescents' opinions about clothing relating to behavior and the remaining chapter contains the conclusions and a summary of the study. CHAPTER II METHODOLOGY This project was initiated as exploratory research to discover possible relationships of roles assumed by adolescent girls to their clothing practices. Instrument The questionnaire was selected as the means of col- lecting data as it gave access to responses of a large number of girls in a relatively short time. Specific areas selected for investigation in this study were: typical roles assumed by adolescents, ideal clothing for typical roles, actual clothing practices in typical roles, opinions about clothing relating to behavior. clothing awareness, clothing satisfaction. self satisfaction. and background factors of the particular sample. Four situations were chosen and designated as typical because the majority of the sample would probably assume these roles quite frequently. These roles are that of a student at school, at home watching television or studying. at a school sports event, and at church. All of the students would perform the first two roles. 0n the basis of high school teaching experience, the researcher felt that most of the 16 17 students would take part in school sports events at some time, and because the questionnaire was given during the winter. attendance at basketball games were used. Dress for a basket- ball game would probably be casual: thus, for the fourth situation, a more formal occasion was desirable as a contrast. After considering several possibilities, the role of a student in church was used because acceptable dress for this occasion would be fairly limited, and it was assumed most students attend church. Ideal clothing for the four roles was indicated on a checklist while actual clothing was listed in open~ended re- sponses which could be coded identically to the checklist. Open-ended responses were again used to allow latitude in expression of personal opinions concerning clothing re~ lating to behavior. Items for the questionnaire were chosen from three sources. Questions used in previous studies done by 1 Rosencranz and Vener2 were adapted for use in this study along with original items which were constructedin order to lead to desired information. a—W ‘— , , v *- . v V4 V 1M. L. Rosencranz, "A Study of Interest in Clothing Among selected Groups of Married and Unmarried Young'Women” (unpublished Master‘s thesis. Department of Textiles. Clothing, and Related Arts. Michigan State College. 1948). Items 4, S, 6, 10. 11 as found in Rosencranz, Appendix. 2Vener, Items 5. 7, 7a, 7b, 14, 21, 35, as found in Vener. Appendix B. 18 A clothing awareness scale was constructed to de- termine a range in respondents' sensitivity to clothing and frequency of participation in activities indicating interest in clothing. Selected items from the Rosencranz study1 were condensed to a checklist form where frequency of participation in activities which indicate clothing interest was noted. A response of "quite frequently" was weighted 5 points: “frequently," 4 points; "occasionally,“ 3: "seldom," 2; and "never,” 1. The sum of points for all the activities yielded the clothing awareness scores in Table l. The possible range of scores was from 6 to 30. The actual range for this sample was 13 to 30 with a majority clustered between 21 and 25, and the median falling at 23. The range follows: 1Rosencranz,_p. cit. 19 Table 1. Clothing Awareness Scores of Ninth Grade Girls Showing Distribution and Number of Girls with Each Score . Awareness Scores Number of Girls 13 . . . . . . 1 14 . . . . . . . 3 15 . . . . . . . 3 16 . . . . . . 6 l7 . . . . . . . 3 18 . . . . . . . 9 19 . . . . . . . 5 20 . . . . . . ll 21 . . . . . . . 14 22 . . . . . . . 15 23 . . . . . . . 15 24 . . . . . . 8 25 . . . . . 13 26 . . . . . . 10 27 . . . . . . . 13 28 . . . . . ll 29 . . . . . . . 6 3O . . . . . . 6 Total . . . . . 152 Clothing satisfaction with one's present wardrObe was measured using a device adapted from Vener's "clothing deprivation" technique.1 Five questions of the following type were interspersed throughout the questionnaire: Compared to others of your age, how'well do you usually feel you are dressed (in general or in a specific role)? Better dressed? About average? Not as well dressed? Don't know. Each response was weighted making a score from 5 to 15 pos- sible. A response of "Better dressed" was given a value of 3 points. ”Average," 2 points. and "Not as well dressed,” l 1Vener,_p. 915.. Item 35, p. 40. 20 point. The sum of points produced the ”clothing satisfaction” score. If a student answered four of these questions rating herself, and indicated “Don't know” on the fifth, the average of the four responses was used as the number rating of the “Don't know.“ If the "Don't know" category was checked two or more times, the total score was recorded as an.x. The range for the sample studied extended from 5 to 13. An average total score was 10 with a 2 point value for each answer of “Average.” A score below 10 indicated that a girl felt better dressed than the average girl, while a score above 10 indicated she felt less well dressed than the average. A majority (92) felt average in all roles. Forty-three scored above average, and ten scored below average. The remaining seven girls were not included in the range because they did not know how well they felt dressed in two or more of the typical roles. (See Table 2.) Table 2. Distribution of Clothing Satisfaction Scores on Present Wardrobe of Ninth Grade Girls Satisfaction Number of Scores Girls 5 . . . . . a 4 6 . . . . . 5 7 . . . . . 6 8 . . . . . 10 9 . . . . . 18 10 . . . . . . 92 11 . . . . . . 5 12 . . . . . 3 13 . . . . . . 2 Total . . . . . . 145 21 The rest of the questionnaire was made up of both objective and subjective questions consisting of check list. true-false, multiple choice, and open-ended response items. A large number of open-ended items were included because the exploratory nature of the project made it desirable to give respondents unlimited choices in answering questions. The areas studied and the numbers of the items in the question— naire (see Appendices) relating to them are as follows: Appendix A Background factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 ‘Appendix B Clothing awareness: 1 Clothing satisfaction: 2, 5. 12, 15, 24, 26 Self satisfaction: 19 Typical roles assumed: l3. 17, 18, 23b, 25 Ideal clothing for typical roles: 4b, 6, 7, 8, 9, 21b. 22b. 25c Actual clothing practices in typical roles: 3, 13a. l4,‘l6b, 23a. 25a Opinions about clothing relating to behavior: 20. - 22, 27a, 27b, 27c. 28 Statistical Techniques The majority of analyses was done using descriptive statistics with percentages showing frequency distributions. In addition, relationships between some variables ‘were analyzed using the chi-square test of significance.1 “The chi-square test is a very general test which can be used 1See Appendix C. t 22 whenever we wish to evaluate whether or not frequencies which have been empirically obtained differ significantly from those which would be expected under a certain set of theoretical assumptions."1 The chi-square formula follows: X2=zfi§fi ,e The following procedure was employed for showing probability values:2 When probability is greater than s05 "not significant" . . NS When probability is .05 or less but greater than .01 ”moderately significant” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P.05 When probability is .01 or less but greater than .001 ”highly significant” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P.01 When probability is .001 or less "extremely significant" P.001 For purposes of this study, a probability of .05 or less is accepted as indicating a significant relationship or one that is not likely to occur by chance. The Community and the Sample The questionnaire was administered to 152 ninth grade girls in the East Lansing High School, East Lansing. Michigan. This included all of the girls in the ninth grade class except two who were not available. Certain factors made this school particularly desirable. There is no other high school in East Lansing: thus the views expressed by Y“ 1Hubert M. Blalock, Social Statistics (New York: McGrawbHill Book Company, Inc., 1960), p. 212. 2Margaret J. Hagood, Statistics for Sogiologists (New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1952). p. 325. 23 these girls would be comprehensive of girls in this age group in the public schools in this community. The school has no written rules concerning dress: therefore, the students' interpretations of proper dress for school are not limited by school policies. The school is coeducational, and from the point of view of studying girls' clothing reactions, more closely approximates the life situation than would an all- girls' school.1 The community from which the sample was derived is atypical in many respects. It is the location of Michigan State University and, consequently, the University affects a large segment of the population in relation to elements such as level of education, age, mObility, occupation, and income. In the community of East Lansing, according to the 1960 census, persons of age twenty-five and over have a median of 15.8 years of schooling compared to 10.8 for the state of Michigan. The median age is 22.2 years while the state median age is 28.3 years. Fifty and seven-tenths per cent of the population moved into their present homes in East Lansing after 1958. The census reports that white collar workers pre- dominate with 7l.9% in white collar occupations and only rs in manufacturing industries. The median East Lansing income is $7,152 while the median state income is $6,256. Twelve 1This is the same rationale as Silverman used in selection of a school for her study, (Silverman, _p. cit., p. 33). 24 and two-tenths per cent of its residents have incomes under $3,000 but 31.7%»have incomes of $10,000 and over. These facts are revealed in similarities in back- ground factors of the girls in the sample. Forty-six per cent of the ninth grade girls had attended grade school in a town other than East Lansing or had attended two or more grade schools in East Lansing. It appears that the families of the ninth grade girls were only slightly less mobile than the average population. In 95% of the cases (144) the father was the main financial support of the family, and 67% of the family heads were college graduates. (See Table 3). Table 3. Education of Heads of Families of Ninth Grade Girls Education Number No school . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 Some grade school . . . . . . . . 1 Graduated from grade school . . . 3 Some high school . . . . . . . . 6 Graduated from high school . . . 17 Some college . . . . . . . . . . l4 Graduated from college . . . . . 102 Don't know . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Sixty-seven per cent (102) were also classified as professionally or semiprofessionally employed (classes 1 and 2 in Table 4). Less than 5% were semiskilled or unskilled workers (classes 6 and 7, Table 4). All were placed using Warner's occupational classification.1 1W; Lloyd Warner, Social Class in America (Chicago: Science Research Associates, Inc., 1949), p. 140-41. 25 Table 4. Occupational Ranking of Heads of Families of Ninth Grade Girls Ranking Number 1 . 63 39 26 . . 7 10 6 1 152 1 Thirty-four per cent of the families also had a second person contributing to their financial support. Religious preference was designated as Protestant in 123 instances (81%). (See Table 5). Table 5. Religious Preference of Ninth Grade Girls Religion Number Protestant . . . . . 123 Catholic . . . . . . 17 Jewish . . . . . . 3 None . . . . . . . . 8 No response . . . . 1 Total . . . . . . . 152 Most of the girls were active in some clubs or organizations. Only 12% indicated that they belonged to none. Fifty-seven per cent of them belonged to two or more clubs or organizations. All of the girls fell into the fourteen or fifteen year old age groups. Generalizing, the city is made up of a young, highly educated. extremely mobile, white collar population. The 26 majority of the sample reflect these characteristics. However. a small percentage of the ninth grade girls come from low socio—economic classes and reside in an area relatively separated from the rest of the city. It was thought that the latter group compared to the majority group with high socio- economic background would provide an interesting study in contrasts. While this study does not emphasize social class, it is part of a larger project which will delve into re- lationships of social class and clothing behavior.1 The instrument employed was also used as a means of collecting background information for the larger project. Pretest The questionnaire was pretested in a twelfth grade home economics class in Charlotte, Michigan. Twenty-four girls filled in the questionnaire. The purpose of the pre- test was to determine the approximate amount of time which must be allotted for answering it, the interpretations which students would have of various items, the types of responses which would be obtained, and the over-all reactions of girls v— ——1 1Joanne B. Eicher. "Ninth Grade Girls Attitudes and Behavior Related to Role, Appearance, Social Class, and Group Acceptance," (research in progress for Michigan State University Agricultural Experiment Station). A portion of the study is also being carried out in another M.A. thesis. A. Bjorngaard, ”The Relationship of Social Class and Social Acceptance to Clothing and Appearance of a Selected Group of Ninth Grade Girls" (Michigan State University, expected to be completed. August, 1962.) 27 to the study.1 Students were advised to ask questions if any items were not clearly understood. As a result of the pretest a small number of items were rewarded or omitted. Administration of Instrument The revised questionnaire was administered in the East Lansing High School, East Lansing, Michigan. As final scheduling arrangements were made, the impossibility of administering the instrument to the entire class of twelfth grade girls, as was originally intended, became evident. Be- cause all ninth grade girls were available, the decision was made to use ninth graders for two reasons: the responses of one complete segment of the high school population would be obtained, and their responses as a sample would be represent- ative of prior and subsequent classes of ninth grade girls in East Lansing. With the change from twelfth to ninth graders, the researcher thought that the instrument might be too difficult. However, a ninth grade teacher and counselor in East Lansing approved of its comprehensibility for this grade level so it was used as completed after the first revision. Since the researcher also thought that there might be differences in the names given to certain items of clothing in different schools. 1The researcher experimented with a checklist and an open-ended response for the section about ideal clothing choices. The checklist produced uniform choices and simplified coding: therefore, that form was chosen for the final instru- ment. 28 a high school student in East Lansing was asked to check the lists of clothing used in the questionnaire to see if the East Lansing nomenclature corresponded with that used in the questionnaire. The questionnaire was administered during one home- room period to 140 ninth grade girls assembled in the school cafeteria. Twelve girls filled it out at a later date. The instrument was constructed in two sections, the first con— sisting of background information, and the second of personal responses concerning clothing behavior. The girls were in- structed to sign the first part which would give the writer information about the composition of their class, and to place it in a sealed envelope which was provided for them before proceeding to the second section which they were asked not to sign. It seemed that responses would be more accurate if the girls felt they would be anonymous. The second section was coded with a number matching the first section in order that responses could be correlated with background factors when the data were analyzed.1 The atmosphere of the cafeteria was not as desirable as one might wish, for it was very crowded. The responses indicated, however, that the girls had taken the questionnaire quite seriously. 1The pledge of anonymity has not been broken. for findings have not been reported in any way which would reveal the name of the respondent. CHAPTER III IDEAL AND ACTUAL CLOTHING CHOICES, COMPARISONS AND VARIANTS Ideal Clothing For Four "Typical" Roles Four roles were assumed to be typical in teen-age activities. They were roles of a student at school, at home watching television or studying, at a basketball game, and in church. Typicality of the first two roles was evident be— cause all girls filling out the questionnaire would be in school and all would go home. Those who did not go to basket- ball games and/or church would be familiar with these ac- tivities, and they would have opinions about appropriate dress for them. The response was 100 per cent to the questions asking for opinions about proper dress for school, home, and basketball games. Only one girl said she could not describe correct dress for church because she did not attend church. A compilation of the responses about correct clothing for each role follows. The girls were to check all of the items which they thought were appropriate in each category. In most instances, they did check multiple choices. Table 6 shows that opinions about proper clothing change according to change in role. Clothing which is ap- propriate in one situation is not considered proper in another. 29 30 Table 6. Opinions of Ninth Grade Girls Regarding Ideal Clothing for Four Typical Roles: School, Home, Basketball Game, and Church Echool Home B. B. Game4ChurdN Coat of real fur like mink 2 --- 0 20 Coat with real fur trim like mink 10 --- 6 46 Coat with raccoon collar 125 --- 106 92 Coat of synthetic fur 26 --- 16 45 Plain colored dressy coat 23 --- 16 136 Coat of bold. bright plaid 77 --~ 69 19 Coat of small check or plaid 104 --- 92 68 Car coat 131 --- 143 8 Leather jacket 47 --— 67 2 Ski parka or jacket 63 --- 94 1 Checked none of these 0 --- 0 0 Suit 51 9 24 135 Taffeta party dress 2 3 0 3 Taffeta sheath dress 4 3 0 11 wool sheath dress 72 11 33 117 Dress with full skirt 103 21 64 80 Sleeveless dress, no jacket 12 8 0 8 Sleeveless dress with jacket 53 7 16 86 Dress with low-cut neckline 4 4 l 5 Dress with high neckline 9O 11 38 90 Checked none of these 16 122 60 0 Straight or slim skirt 144 81 127 136 Pleated skirt 148 96 145 126 Flared skirt 114 67 99 77 Full gathered skirt 101 64 87 64 Kilts 117 95 121 6 Knee ticklers (skirt above the knee) 107 95 112 9 Checked none of these 0 40 3 0 Bulky knit sweater 148 124 147 48 Pullover sweater 145 129 145 84 Cardigan sweater 144 114 138 107 Sweatshirt 26 137 90 1 Tailored blouse 145 100 125 112 Dressy blouse 95 23 60 127 Checked none of these 0 3 0 4 * -- means alternative was not included on the instrument. 0 means alternative was included but was chosen by no one. Table 6.--Continued Whimsey or veil Scarf on head Small hat Large hat No hat Mittens Gloves No gloves or mittens Shoes with 3” heels 1" heels Flat. dressy shoes Loafers Tennis Shoes Sandals Knee-high socks or tights .Nylons Bobby socks No stockings Slippers Checked none of these Billfold, no purse Satin or velvet purse Small leather purse Medium-sized leather purse Large leather purse Tote bag Checked none of these Slacks Jeans Pedal pushers Culottes Bermuda or Jamaica shorts Short shorts Checked none of these Housecoat, robe, or duster Pajamas Checked none of these 31 3 126 28 9 78 141 85 52 3 4 103 147 141 11 140 129 148 122 131 133 121 109 78 :37 ISchooll Home IB. B. Game; 3 105 26 8 79 118 69 59 1 2 74 142 145 10 133 97 145 7 O 130 124 38 16 114 14 91 34 25 Church] 67 23 132 24 59 14 144 28 110 100 124 128 106 N 0&0 GONGOON N 32 In the first category, coats, the car coat and the coat with the raccoon collar (which may be one and the same) are first choices for school and also for basketball games. The car coat becomes quite inappropriate for church with only 5% (8) of the girls choosing it, and the plain colored dressy coat which was not favored for school or basketball games, becomes the first choice for church. It is interesting to note that the coat with the raccoon collar was chosen 125 times for school while the coats with real fur trim and of synthetic fur were chosen only ten and twenty-six times. Raccoon collared coats were fashionable with teen-agers this year, as were car coats. Jackets were also fairly acceptable for school but not proper for church. Real fur coats were designated as all right for church but not for school or basketball games by twenty girls. Older women often wear real fur: perhaps teen-agers feel fur coats are correct only for an older age group. In the suit and dress category, suits were the over- whelming choice for church followed by wool sheath dresses. Taffeta dresses, sleeveless dresses, and dresses with low—cut necklines were rejected for all four situations again re- flecting fashion trends, teen-age mores, and, in some instances, the season the instrument was administered. None of these garments received as many positive responses in any situation as did the skirts, blouses, and sweaters. 33 Ryan in 1953 described skirts, blouses, and sweaters 1 It is equally accepted as as the universal college dress. the proper high school dress today. Currently fashionable kilts and knee ticklers which were said to be appropriate for school, were not generally acceptable for church. Blouses were favored over sweaters for church. Skirts were less preferred for home wear than for school, basketball games, and church. Twenty-six per cent (40) indicated skirts were not appropriate to be worn at home. Small hats were best for church along with scarves for school and basketball games. Gloves were specified as church wear as were mittens for school. Leather purses were equally acceptable in three situations, but appeared to be more of a necessity for church. Footwear proprieties are extremely noticeable because they shift so definitely from loafers, tennis shoes, and flat, dressy shoes for school, home, and basketball games, to heels and flat, dressy shoes for church. Knee high socks and bobby socks were correct in the first three situations, but only nylons received general acceptance for church. Eighty-five per cent (129) of the girls felt nylons were also appropriate for school. LMary S. Ryan, Psychological Effects of Clothing, Part III. ”Comparison of College Students with High School Students, Rural with Urban Students, and Boys with Girls," Cornell University Agricultural Experiment Station Bul. 900, August, 1953, p. 12. 34 Slacks were most frequently designated as home wear. and secondly for basketball games. The lounging and sleeping wear category was omitted from the instrument for all situations except at home wear, and therefore appeared as appropriate garb only in that category. Actual Clothing in Four "Typical" Roles In reference to the four roles assumed to be typical, a student at school, at home, at a basketball game, and at church, the girls were asked to state what they had worn the last time they took part in each of these roles. Table 7 contains this information. Over three-fourths of the sample (77.6%) told what they had worn for each of the four roles. Ninety-eight per cent (149) of the girls answered the questions denoting their dress for school. Ninety-two girls said they changed their clothes when they got home from school the previous day. Fifty-nine did not. In the cases where the respondents did not change clothes, the question asking what they had worn at home was coded identically to what they had worn to school. Typicality of attendance at basketball games was verified be- cause 84% (128) of the girls indicated that they did go to basketball games. Only three of the 128 failed to describe what they had worn last time they went to a basketball game. The questions about clothing for church allowed the individual 35 Table 7. Practices of Ninth Grade Girls Regarding Actual Clothing for Four Typical Roles: School, Home, Basketball Game, and Church (School Home B. B. Gamnghgggh‘ Coat of real fur like mink 0 --- O 0 Coat with real fur trim like mink 2 --- l 4 Coat with raccoon collar 22 --- 27 13 Coat with synthetic fur 4 --- 3 7 Plain colored dressy coat 38 --- 38 66 Coat of bold. bright plaid 0 —-- 0 0 Coat of small check or plaid 35 --- 12 25 Car coat 34 --— 36 8 Leather jacket 0 --- 0 0 Ski parka or jacket 0 —-— 4 0 No response 7 --- 4 19 Suit 2 0 0 26 Taffeta party dress 0 0 0 O Taffeta Sheath dress 0 0 0 1 Wool sheath dress 3 0 0 29 Dress with full skirt 4 0 2 8 Sleeveless dress, no jacket 0 0 0 0 Sleeveless dress, with jacket 0 0 0 3 Dress with low-cut neckline 0 0 0 1 Dress with high neckline 0 0 l 9 No response 3 1 3 17 Straight or slim skirt 80 1 70 47 Pleated skirt 46 O 38 11 Flared skirt 3 0 l 0 Full gathered skirt 6 1 0 l Kilts l 0 3 0 Knee ticklers (skirt above the knees) 0 0 0 0 No response 3 0 3 19 Bulky knit sweater l 3 3 0 Pullover sweater 33 ll 36 31 Cardigan sweater 52 2 44 6 Sweatshirt 6 34 3 0 Tailored blouse 89 35 65 21 Dressy blouse l7 0 10 8 No response 3 l 3 18 * -- means alternative was not included on the instrument. 0 means alternative was included but was chosen by no one. Table 7.--Continued Whimsey or veil Scarf on head Small hat Large hat No hat No response Mittens Gloves No gloves or mittens Shoes with 3" heels 1” heels Flat, dressy shoes Loafers Tennis shoes Sandals Knee-high socks or tights Nylons Bobby socks No stockings Slippers No response Billfold, no purse Satin or velvet purse Small leather purse Medium-sized leather purse Large leather purse Tote bag No response Slacks Jeans Pedal pushers Culottes Bermuda or Jamaica shorts Short shorts No response Housecoat, robe, or duster Pajamas No response 36 ISghoolfHome B. B. Game Church. 2 --- 1 13 49 --- 27 11 10 --- 12 22 11 --- 4 3 66 --- 74 79 3 --- 3 20 --- --- --- 4 --- --- --- 83 --- --- --- 39 0 0 O 32 O O 0 61 34 O 31 33 58 16 54 3 56 21 39 O 0 0 O O 42 0 35 0 32 0 32 124 72 --- 57 3 O 1 2 0 ___ 8 ___ _._- 3 0 3 19 21 --- 62 38 1 --- O 0 75 --- 33 60 51 --- 29 23 O --- O 1 0 --- 1 1 3 --- 3 22 O 55 7 0 O 14 1 1 0 1 O 0 0 0 1 0 O 8 1 0 0 1 O 0 3 0 3 22 _-_ 4 --_ _-_ --_ 4 -_- --- --_ o --- --- 37 who did go to church to tell what she wore the last time, and the one who did not go to describe garments in her wardrdbe which would be correct for church. Seventeen girls (11.2%) did not answer the church question. It was the intention of the researcher to make the checklist inclusive in order that open—ended responses about actual dress could be coded using the checklist for ideal dress. However, a few discrepancies occurred: some items of actual dress did not fit into any category.1 The most obvious discrepancy occurred in the coat category because of the omission of "boycoat” from the list. The boycoat is usually a plain colored casual coat, and was very popular as an item of actual dress this year. When a boycoat was the garment actually worn, the "coat of small check or plaid“ category was checked as the one best expressing the casual style of this coat. The plain colored dressy coat was chosen most often for church, school, and basketball games. The coat with a raccoon collar was worn quite frequently in all three situ- ations, but all other fur and fur-trimmed coats were rejected. The real fur coat, the coat of bold, bright plaid, and the 1It would have been interesting to see how many of the items worn did not fit into the categories, and how many times girls did not wear any of the garments listed in a category, but, unfortunately, this information was not re- corded. Instead, the responses of actual clothing worn were ”forced” into the category which seemed closest to the item. 38 leather jacket were worn by no one. Suits and wool sheath dresses were worn to church but in only a few instances was anything from the dress category worn for any other occasion. Skirts, blouses, and sweaters were the pieces of attire most frequently worn except at home where slacks, jeans, and shorts replaced skirts. Scarves and hats were often worn for school and basketball games. Fur "Cossack“ hats were p0pu1ar for school wear. Only twenty-five (16.4%) girls wore hats to church.1 Thirteen wore whimseys or veils which may serve as a hat sub- - stitute. Approximately half of the sample wore no head coverings for any occasion. High heels were worn only for church. The most versatile shoes were flat, dressy shoes which were worn equally as often for school, basketball games, and church. '.Loafers and tennis shoes were favorites for school, home and basketball games. Bobby socks, worn most often for school and basketball games, were worn by only three people to church, while 124 wore nylons to church. Purses were used most often for church and school while the majority of girls attending basketball games carried only a billfold. Only four girls, who explained they were tired or ill. 1This percentage probably reflects religious affili- ation because only 11%wwere Roman Catholic and would be re- quired to wear a head covering. 39 wore housecoats, robes, dusters, or pajamas at home for studying or watching television. Comparison of Ideal and Actual’ Clothing Choices The tables depicting actual and ideal clothing choices show a wide range in what is designated as appro— priate dress. However, in each situation one or two garments are most frequently chosen. Others are completely rejected. The range of choices on Table 6 appears more spectacular because the respondents indicated multiple choices for appropriate garments, whereas, in actual categories only one of the garments was usually worn; therefore, only one would be checked for each girl. No single garment was considered equally ideal for all roles, nor was any rejected in all roles. Some garments were not included in the instrument as alternatives. For home attire, these were coats, hats, gloves. and purses, and for the other three situations, housecoats, robes, dusters and pajamas. Discrepancies in actual and ideal wear seem to occur most often because of garments currently in fashion. Current- fashion items chosen as ideal wear included coats with raccoon collars, car coats, and pleated skirts. Although these were first choices for school and basketball games, the garments worn most often were plain colored coats and straight skirts. What the girls do and what they desire do not coincide. 40 Practicality seems to be a stronger force than fashion in this case. For church, the suit was the ideal choice but the wool sheath dress was most frequently worn. Small hats were also called most proper but over half of the girls wore no hats. Stone comments that certain garments are typical of a particular age grade. He calls the most popular items of clothing of a peer group the uniforms of the peer circle.1 Skirts, blouses, and sweaters appear to approximate a uniform for this age grade. Dresses were often called proper for school, but were not usually worn. Slacks appear to be favored for basketball games, but were actually seldom worn. Girls might wear skirts because this is a school event and they do not ordinarily wear slacks to school, because of their interest in dressing to please boys, or because they planned to go to a school dance following the game and felt slacks would not be appropriate there. Many girls said anything was proper at home. One hundred forty-four girls (95%) checked housecoat, robe, duster, and pajamas as proper at-home wear, but only eight girls actually wore them on this occasion. One respondent said all garments were appropriate at home but some were more appropri- ate than others. Slacks were the usual at-home attire. 1stone, _2. cit.. p. 113. 41 This presents an over-all comparison of actual and ideal clothing choices. The next section will consider specific variants between actual and ideal dress. Variants Between Ideal and Actual Clothing Choices A variant, according to Parsons, is one whose actions digress slightly from the norms of role enactment but still remain within limits of toleration set by society.1 Those falling beyond the limits of toleration are deviants. Adapting Parsons' terminology, in this study the word, variant, is used to represent clothing which was worn by a girl but which she did not check as being proper garb for the particular role being considered. A variant score for each girl was obtained by com— paring her ideal and actual clothing choices. Each time she wore a garment which she had not checked as being proper on the checklist for that role she was given one point. The sum total of points composed her variant score. For example, a girl might check straight skirt, pleated skirt, and flared skirt as ideal wear for school, while actually she wore a full gathered skirt. This was recorded as one variant. The variant scores for the entire sample in all four roles ranged from O to 15. Some girls such as those who did 'attend basketball games did not fill in all of the ideal and 1Parsons, The Social System, p. 239. 42 actual sections. The variant scores are listed in Table 8 according to the number of sections to which the girls responded. Table 8. ,Range of Variant Scores for Ninth Grade Girls Based on Number of Roles to Which They Responded Variant Response to Number of Roles Total Score 4 out of 4 3 out of 4 2 out of 4 1 out of 4 O 7 3 - 1 ll 1 17 2 4 23 2 22 5 1 28 3 18 8 1 27 4 l4 4 1 19 5 11 l 12 6 9 1 10 7 8 2 10 8 5 5 9 1 1 10 3 3 11 1 l 12 1 1 13 0 l4 0 15 1“ 1 Total 1 8 gge 7 l _§2fi The groups were collapsed for the final analysis: therefore, all four sections were considered as one with the eleven with no variants composing one group, those with one variant composing another group, etc. Also those with variant scores of nine or above were considered as one group. The relationships of the variant score to other factors will be discussed later.1 The variant scores for each of the four roles were computed as seen in Table 9. The largest number of girls had no variants in the home situation as would be expected because lInfra, p. 54. 43 many girls felt anything was proper to wear at home. The second largest number with no variants occurred in the school category, and this seems to reinforce the assumption that ninth graders' wardrobes are geared for school. The most variants were found in clothing for church which again seems logical because dress requirements are fairly rigid for. church and ninth graderso wardrobes are apt to be planned for school which is not as formal a situation as church. Table 9. Distribution of the Number of Variants of Ninth Grade Girls in Four Roles Role Number of Variants 0 l 2 3 4 S 6 7 8 Total School 53 62 24 6 l 146 Basketball game 45 53 19 6 4 127 Church 37 39 35 12 8 2 2 l 1 137 Home 106 29 12 4 l 152 A computation was done comparing each category of actual and ideal clothing choices to investigate possible patterns of variants for the entire group. The skirt cate- gory for school wear will be used as an example. On the questionnaire, it was listed as follows: straight or slim skirt pleated skirt flared skirt full gathered skirt kilts knee ticklers (skirt above knees) Each item was coded with a number from O to 5, straight or slim skirt as 0 and knee ticklers as 5. The responses of the girls were keypunched on IBM cards and recorded on the 101 44 electronic statistical machine. Table 10 shows a portion of the results produced on the 101. Table 10. Comparison of Ninth Grade Girls' Actual and Ideal Skirt Choices for School Wear as Produced on 101 Item No. Total 0 l 2 3 4 5 0 8O 76 78 59 55 65 60 l 46 44 45 38 32 38 36 2 3 3 3 3 . 3 3 3 3 6 6 6 5 3 4 2 The column at the left shows item numbers, 0 representing straight or slim skirt, 1 representing pleated skirt, etc. In this case, number 4, kilts, and number 5, knee ticklers. were not recorded by the 101 because no one actually wore them to school. The second column gives the total number of girls who wore each of the items. The remaining columns tell how many of the girls who wore the item listed in the first column chose the other items as proper dress. Item 0 was worn to school by eighty girls on the day the questionnaire was administered. Seventy-six of the eighty indicated in the ideal dress section that this item (straight or slim skirt) was proper dress for school. Therefore, there were four variants in this row. Of the eighty, seventy-eight also chose item 1, fifty-nine chose item 2, fifty-five, item 3. sixty-five, item 4, and sixty, item 5 as proper dress for school. Forty-six girls wore item 1 (pleated skirt) and forty— five of them said it was proper leaving one variant. Item 2 (flared skirt) was worn by three and called proper by the same 45 three girls meaning no variants occurred in this row. Generally, throughout the comparisons, there was a consistently small number of variants in each situation.1 Chi-Square Analysis of Variants as Related to Clothing Awareness and Satisfaction A possible explanation for individual differences in number of variants could have been differences in clothing awareness2 and satisfaction.3 No significant relationships 4 were found between the variants and satisfaction or variants and awareness.5 However, the relationship between clothing awareness 6 and clothing satisfaction was highly significant. Girls with low clothing awareness also had low satisfaction, and 1The largest number of variants were in the coat cate- gory, and here the discrepancy was because of the wording of the instrument. As previously explained, (supra, chap iii, p. 37) "plain colored casual coat" was a style not included on the checklist. Therefore, a plain colored coat was usually coded by the researcher in the category which seemed the closest, ”plain colored dressy coat." A large discrepancy was evident in school wear where the actual coat worn by thirty-eight girls was coded as a plain colored dressy coat. Only six of the thirty-eight called this proper dress; thus, thirty-two variants were recorded. 2Supra, chap. ii, p. 19. See clothing awareness scores. 3Supra, chap. ii, p. 20. See clothing satisfaction scores. 4See Table 25, Appendix C. 5See Table 26, Appendix C. 6See Table 27, Appendix C. 46 girls with high awareness had high satisfaction. It appears that the girls who did not think themselves well-dressed indicated the least interest in clothes. Girls in the middle satisfaction group were almost equally divided between high. middle, and low awareness. Clothing Satisfaction Concerning Actual Choices Several questions were asked concerning specific clothing satisfactions. One question investigated the amount of satisfaction each girl felt with her entire wardrdbe. Responses are shown in Table 11. Table 11. Satisfaction of Ninth Grade Girls with Entire Wardrobe Item Number Very satisfied . . . . . 21 Usually satisfied . . . 115 Not very satisfied . . . 14 I don't like it . . . . 2 Total . . . . . . . . 152 The above responses were correlated with the clothing satisfaction scores1 using chi-square. No significance was found between the amount of satisfaction with the entire wardrobe and how they felt dressed in the typical roles (clothing satisfaction score).2 Ryan found when asking high school and college girls how well dressed they felt that very few of the high school 1Supra, chap. ii, p. 20. See Clothing satisfaction scores. 2See Table 28. Appendix c. 47 girls checked better dressed than average, while one—third of the college girls did.1 She felt that the difference may be because of a greater desire for conformity in the high school girl than in the college girl. High school girls may so strongly desire to be dressed as the average girl is dressed that they convince themselves they are succeeding rather than falling below the average. Ninety per cent of her high school sample felt as well-dressed as average.2 This particular ninth grade sample does not support the above findings. Forth-three girls (28%) scored above average; they appear most similar to Ryan's college group. Perhaps the economic background factor of the sample enters into the results. As seen in Table 12, satisfaction with clothing varied from role to role. Seventy-nine per cent of the girls thought they were dressed about average for any occasion. Sixteen per cent felt they were better dressed than average and three per cent felt not as well dressed as average. The percentage feeling better dressed was highest at church and lowest at home. Proper clothing choices for church would be more limited than for home. However, in the two situations more respondents felt better dressed than the average girl in the church role. It may be that they were not aware of what the majority of girls wore at home, and therefore, felt not 1Ryan, Part II, p. 5. 21bid.. p. 27. 48 as well dressed as the average girl in this situation. A larger percentage thought they were dressed about average in the school and basketball game role. Clothing for these two situations was quite similar which suggests that ward- robes of ninth graders emphasize school wear. Table 12. Number and Percentage Distribution of Ninth Grade Girls with Clothing Satisfaction in Specific Roles getter About Not as well Don’t ressed average dressed know Total (No. % No. 36 \No. 96) No. 76' Any occasion 25 16 118 79 4 3 2 1 149 Church 26 18 113 78 5 3 1 l 145 School 20 13 122 83 4 3 l l 147 Basketball game 18 13 121 86 O 0 1 l 140 Home 11 7 120 81 L__;.O 7 8 5 149 Regarding satisfaction with their school outfit on a particular day, the girls were also asked if they liked the outfits they were wearing to school on the day the question- naire was administered. Only ten replied that they did not. Reasons given for dislike generally indicated that they did not think their garments were complimentary to their appearance (see Table 13). 49 Table 13. Reasons Given by Ninth Grade Girls for Dissatis- faction With School Wear Reason Number Do not feel it looks neat . . 4 Not flattering to figure . . 2 Tired of it: it's old . . . . 2 Don't know . . . . . . . . . 2 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Feelings about themselves were correlated with the clothing satisfaction scores using chi-square.1 The question about self-feelings was: Check the category which comes closest to your feeling about yourself: I don't like myself the way I am; I'd like to change completely. ' There are many things I'd like to change, but not completely. . I'd like to stay very much the same: there is very little I would change. The probability of this relationship approached significance. There was some tendency for those who felt less well dressed than average to want to change themselves some while those who felt better dressed wanted to stay the same. Coleman's findings were similar.2 The effect on a girl of not being thought of as "best dressed“ by her classmates nearly doubled her likelihood of wanting to be someone different. A final satisfaction question asked, "How well do you feel you are dressed for any occasion?" This question 1See Table 29, Appendix C. 2Supra, chap. 1, p. 12. 50 correlated with the variant scores approached significance.1 There was a tendency for those with no variants or a small number of variants to feel about average or better dressed than average. The three girls who thought they were not as well dressed as average each had eight or more variants. A larger sample may have shown greater significance. Summary of Ideal and Actual Clothing Behavior The object of investigation of this section was the ideal and actual clothing behavior of ninth grade girls in four typical teen-age roles. The garments denoted as proper dress varied from role to role. In each case there was a wide range of garments called appropriate, but a few garments stood out as being chosen most frequently. The range of garments actually worn was more limited. There was more conformity in actual dress than in ideal dress. Garments chosen as most ideal were also not always those most frequently worn. A majority of the girls believed they were dressed as well as the average girl for any occasion. Over one-fourth of the sample stated that they were better dressed than average. In specific roles the percentage feeling better dressed than the average girl was highest at church and.10we8t at home. They seem to feel that they were better dressed than the average girl because they were dressed up. 1See Table 30, Appendix C. 51 The ideal and actual clothing choices were compared for each girl and for the group as a whole. Differences in the individual's choices yielded her variant score which was analyzed with her awareness score,1 satisfaction score,2 and opinions about clothing relating to behavior.3 Considering the total group there was usually a small number of variants in each garment category. The fewest variants were found in the home role while the most occurred in church. Indications were that most attire was proper at home so few variants occurred here. Wardrobes for ninth grade girls are apt to be planned for school and, therefore, are less suitable for church where more formal dress is required. _._‘_ 1See Table 26, Appendix C. 2See Table 25. Appendix C. 3See Tables 30 - 34, Appendix C. CHAPTER IV CLOTHING RELATED TO BEHAVIOR Student Opinions The garments which seem typical of school wear predominate as actual choices of the girls in the other four roles as well; this fact suggests that their wardrobes were selected for school. The particular school studied had no‘ official dress rules or regulations. Therefore, students would be free to make their own choices about appropriate school wear. One question asked, "Do you think a school should have any rules or regulations concerning dress? Why?“ A' variety of responses were received as shown in Table 14. It is significant that over 80% of the respondents felt a school should have dress rules. 52 53 Table 14. Distribution of Ninth Grade Girls' Responses to the Question, "Should a School Have Rules Con- cerning Dress?“ Response Number Yes, so students won't dress improperly . . . . . . . 59 Yes, so students will look neat and well-groomed . . 20 Yes. because dress affects behavior . . . . . . . . 11 Yes, to give school a reputation of good appearance . 8 Yes, don't know why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Yes. other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 No, what a person wears should be his own decision . 15 N0. some can' t afford to dress as well as others . . 8 No, other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Did not respond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Total 152 It is even more significant that 122 (83%) felt their school did have dress rules. Of that number, 103 said shorts. slacks, jeans, and extremes in dress could not be worn as seen in Table 15. One high school counselor remarked that these norms had arisen spontaneously without official action. Table 15. 'Distribution of Positive Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, "What are the School Dress Rules and Regulations?" Response Number No slacks . . . . . . . . . . 38 No slacks, shorts, or jeans . 38 No extremes in dress . . . . . 21 Neat dress . . . . . . . . . . 6 Don't know . . . . . . . . . . 17 Other . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 When asked, "Who made these rules?", the variety of student replies made it evident that no one group was held responsible. See Table 16. 54 Table 16. Distribution of Ninth Grade Girls' Responses To the Question, ”Who Made Dress Rules?" Response Number Don't know . . . . . . . . . . 44 Student Council . . . . . . . 17 Principal, administration . . 16 Teachers . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Board of Education . . . . . . 8 Student body . . . . . . . . . 6 Other . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Combination of above . . . . 17 No response . . . . . . . . . 1 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Fridays had been designated as "dress-up days" in the East Lansing High School. The girls were asked a series of questions concerning these days. One hundred forty-four girls knew about the dress-up days; six were not familiar with them; two did not answer this section. Eighty girls (52%) said they felt differently dressed up from the way they felt on ordinary school days. The ways in which they felt differently were classified into seven categories. Four of these (more confident when well-dressed, more grown-up. self-conscious, behavior is subdued, restrained, more feminine) suggested that clothing affects behavior. See Table 17. 55 Table 17. Distribution of Positive Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, ”Do You Feel Differently Dressed Up?" How Number More confident when well dressed . . . . . . . . . . 22 More aware of clothes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 More grown up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Behavior is subdued, restrained, more feminine . . . 8 Self-conscious . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Physically uncomfortable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Yes, other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 When asked, "Do you think students act differently on that day?", sixty-five percent (99) answered "yes." Nineteen girls felt that they themselves did not act differently, but other students did. Answers to the question, of "how do they act differently?" are similar to the previous one, as can be seen in Table 18. Table 18. Distribution of Positive Responses by Ninth Grade Girls to the Question, "Do Students Act Differently Dressed Up?“ Response Number More grown up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Better behaved . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 More careful about taking care of clothes . . . . . 5 Not comfortable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 They act according to how they dress . . . . . . . . 3 More industrious . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Yes, other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Yes, not explained . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101* *There were two multiple responses. '56 When they arrived home from school, ninety-two girls (60%) changed clothes. Twenty mentioned putting on clothing suitable for a particularjob or event. See Table 19. Their change of dress accompanies a change of role illustrating Stone's theory that donning or doffing of dress signals the initiation or the end of action.1 Table 19. Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question. "WhenYou Got Home From School Yesterday Did You Change Clothes?" Reason Number Put on more comfortable clothing . . 39 Put on clothing suitable for a particular job or event . . . . . 20 To lessen wear on good clothing . . . 10 Put on older clothing . . . . . . . . 1 Other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 No particular reason . . . . . . . . 17 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Going to basketball games corresponds to going to school insofar as they take place in the same surroundings. Dress for the two roles was similar, but ideal dress tended to be more casual for basketball games.2 Clothing satis- faction in the two roles was nearly the same.3 i The girls were asked, "If you went to a basketball game with a boy, would you dress differently from the way you dress when you go with girls?" Nearly one-fourth of them lStone, 22. cit., p. 100. 2Supra, chap. 111, p. 30. 3Supra, chap. iv, p. 48. 57 (23%) said they would. This number appears to be low con- sidering Hurlock's statement that girls' interest in clothes stems from their interest in attracting the opposite sex,1 and this seems to be a place where they would be concerned about impressing boys. However, the wording of the question may have affected the answers. It might be that at basket- ball games and at school they always dress for boys; there- fore, they would not dress differently. One girl commented that she always dressed for boys. Nearly all those who would dress differently said they would dress up more or would dress more carefully. In Table 20 it can be seen how they would dress differently. Table 20. Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question, "If You Went to a Basketball Game With a Boy, Would You Dress Differently From the Way You Dress When You Go With Girls?" How Number Would wear nylons and flats . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Would dress up more . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Would dress more carefully . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Would wear a skirt instead of slacks . . . . . . . . 2 Would not take a purse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Not indicated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Eighty-two (64%) out of 128 who said they went to basketball games also said they went to a dance after the last game. This seems to be an explanation for so many skirts being worn to games, whereas in ideal clothing preferences. 1Hurlock, loc. cit. 58 slacks were a favorite for games. The question asked in the ideal preference section was, ”What would be proper for a girl of your age to wear to a basketball game?” The responses may have been different had the question included going to a dance after the game. It seems that a dance is a situation where they would want to appear feminine, and skirts are typically feminine dress. Another question about appropriate dress concerned dress for church. After listing the garments they wore to church, they were asked if they felt appropriately dressed in the outfit. Twelve out of one hundred thirty-five (9%) did not, as seen in Table 21. Ten indicated that their attire should have been more dressy or more appropriate for the occasion. The percentage who were dissatisfied with their church outfits was slightly higher than the number dis- 1 satisfied with their school wear. Again. it seems that wardrobes were geared for school. Table 21. Distribution of Negative Responses to the Question, ”If You Went to Church, Did You Feel That You Were Dressed Appropriately in Your Outfit?" Change desired Number Wanted garment more appropriate for occasion . . . . 4 Wanted more dressy garment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Wanted garment of different color . . . . . . . . . . 1 Did not explain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 1Supra, chap. iii, p. 49. 59 In answer to the question, "Have you ever refused to go anyplace because you felt you didn't have the right clothes to wear?”, twenty-three girls (15%) answered "yes.“ They most frequently refused to do something which required specialty items of clothing such as formals, party dresses, or ski wear. (See Table 22). The implication here seems to be that certain roles demand specific clothing: and that one can not participate in the role unless she has appropriate garments. Table 22. Distribution of Positive Responses to the Question, "Have You Ever Refused To Go Any Place Because You Felt YOu Didn't Have the Right Clothes To Wear?" Place Number To a dressy or formal dance 9 To a party . . . . . . . . . 4 To visit someone . . . . . . 2 Bowling . . . . . . . . . . 1 Trip to a larger city . . . . 1 Did not specify . . . . . . . 6 Total . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Compared to Ryan's study, the above response was the same as the response given by college girls where 85% of them said they had never refused to go out because of lack of ap- propriate clothing. Nearly half of her high school sample had refused to go out one or more times because of clothing.1 The economic factor again may be significant here. Ryan's college group represented above average socio-economic classes, 1Ryan, pp. cit., p. 25. 60 whereas her high school group did not. graders generally come from the two top socio-economic classes. The East Lansing ninth Another question asked, "Have you ever wished you hadn't gone some place because your clothes weren't right?" In this case twenty per cent (31) of th e girls said "yes." Table 23 shows the places they wished they had not gone. They were most often parties or dances, both It seems that these would be places whe cerned about impressing boys. Table 23. Distribution of Positive Res dressy and informal. re they would be con- ponses to the Question, ”Have You Ever Wished You Hadn't Gone Some Place Because Your Clothes Weren't Right?" Place Number Dressy occasion, party or dance . 11 An event requiring a specialty item of clothing . . . . . . . . . 2 Event with students from other schools . . . . . . . . . O\ Informal party or informal dress occasion . . . . . . . . An occurrence not anticipated Place not indicated . . . . . Total . . . . . . . . . . . . A final question was, "Do you e types of clothes cause you to act a cer girls answered "no" and eleven did not rest felt clothes did affect actions. were Obtained; they are categorized in O O O O O . . 3 l-‘U'INU‘ ver feel that certain tain way?" Seventeen respond. All of the A variety of responses Table 24. 1Warner, loc. cit., See Bjornga ard study. 1 61 Table 24. Distribution of Responses By Ninth Grade Girls To the Question, ”Do Certain Clothes Cause You To Act A Certain.Way?" How Number Act more feminine in dress up clothes; better be- haved when dressed up . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Have more confidence when well dresse . . . . . . 23 Not as active in good clothes; less rough and noisy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Feel grown up when dressed up . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Feel more comfortable, at ease in slacks and Bermudas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Sloppy clothes (slacks, sweatshirts) cause laziness in girl's posture, appearance, and behavior . . ll Actions are dependent upon people I'm with, place. and clothes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Yes, not explained . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 No . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 No response . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11* Total . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 * There were ten multiple responses. Chi-Square Analysis of Clothing As Related to Behavior The opinions concerning relationships of clothing and behavior were analyzed using chi-square with the aware- ness.1 satisfaction.2 and variant scores.3 Pour cross-tabulations were run between variant scores and the following questions: Have you ever wished you hadn't gone some place because your clothes weren't right?4 1Supra, chap. ii, p. 19 2Supra, chap. ii, p. 20 3Supra, chap. iii, p. 42 4See Table 31, Appendix c. 62 Have you ever refused to go any place because you felt you didn't have the right clothes to wear?1 Do you feel any differently on school days when you are especially dressed up than you do on ordinary school days? Do you ever feel that certain types of clothes cause you to act a certain way?3 One of these relationships was found to approach significance. When the variant scores were compared to the question, “Have you ever wished you hadn't gone some place because your clothes weren't right?", those with few variants (0-2) and those with many variants (6 or more) were more apt to say "no." The ratio was approximately one "yes” to every five "no's." The middle group with three to five variants said "yes" one out of every two and one-half times. The middle group seems to be more sensitive about their clothing than either of the two extreme groups. Three cross-tabulations were run with satisfaction scores and the following questions: Have you ever wished you hadn't gone some place because your clothes weren't right? Have you ever refused to go any place because you felt you didn't have the right clothes to wear?5 1See Table 32, Appendix C. 2See Table 33, Appendix C. 3See Table 34, Appendix C. 4See Table 35, Appendix C. 5See Table 36. Appendix C. 63 Do you feel any differently on school days when you are especially dressed up than you do on ordinary school days?1 No significant relationships were found. Cross-tabulations were also run with the same three questions and the awareness scores.2 The most significance was found between the clothing awareness scores and the question, "Do you feel any differently on school days when you are especially dressed up than you do on ordinary school days?“ The chi-square probability was less than .05 but greater than .01 which is called "moderately significant." Those with the greatest clothing awareness were most apt to feel differently dressed up. Summary of Clothing Related to Behavior In this portion of the study emphasis was on clothing related to behavior in school because the garments which seem -typical of school wear predominate in the other roles as well. The girls indicated that clothing affected behavior in several ways. Eighty per cent of the respondents thought a school should have dress rules, and several of the reasons they gave for having dress rules implied that dress affects actions. Over half of the girls felt that they behaved dif- ferently dressed up. Two-thirds of them implied that the student attitude was different on days when they were dressed 1See Table 37, Appendix C. 2See Tables 38. 39, and 40, Appendix c. 64 up, most frequently more grown-up or better behaved. Over 80%.said that certain types of clothes caused them to act a certain way such as more feminine in dress up clothes, better behaved when dressed up, more confident when well dressed. more grown-up when dressed up, and more comfortable in slacks or Bermudas. They also implied that certain roles require specific dress, and a change in dress may cause a change in role or vice versa. They suggested that they played a different role on dress up days because they felt differently dressed up. Dress for the role of a student at a basketball game would be more casual than that of a student at school, unless the girl were with a boy, and then it would be more dressy. Clothing would be more feminine if they were going to a dance. Going to church and going home both brought a change in role and a change in dress. Certain roles demand specific clothing to the degree that the girl will not take part in the role if she does not have the appropriate dress. Twenty per cent of the girls said they had gone places to which they wished they had not gone because they were not dressed appropriately. These findings seem to support statements made by Morton, de Beauvoir, and Ryan.1 The feeling of being well- dressed gives a girl confidence, assurance, and self—satis- faction. 1Supra, chap. i, p. 13. CHAPTER V SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS, AND RECOMMENDATIONS Summary and Conclusions This investigation was primarily concerned with the study of the relationship between clothing and the role behavior of ninth grade girls. Objectives of the problem were: 1. to determine what ninth grade girls feel constitute appropriate or ideal clothing for typical adolescent roles. 2. to determine the actual clothing practices of ninth grade girls in these roles. 3. to determine the relationships between ninth grade girls' ideal clothing practices, actual clothing practices, and roles assumed. 4. to obtain ninth grade girls' opinions about the relationship of clothing to behavior. Ideal and actual clothing practices were examined in con~ junction with background factors, clothing awareness, clothing satisfaction, and self-satisfaction. A questionnaire was developed as the means of ob- taining information and was administered in East Lansing, Michigan--a community of predominately young, highly educated, extremely mobile, white collar inhabitants. One hundred fifty-two ninth grade girls (the entire number of girls available from this class) completed the questionnaire. 65 66 Ideal and actual clothing behavior was explored in four roles assumed to be typical of teen-agers. The roles were that of a student at school, at church, at a basket- ball game, and at home. Their typicality was substantiated because a majority of girls in the sample took part in each role. The girls indicated garments they could ideally wear and garments they had actually worn in each of the four roles. The respondents checked a range of garments as ideal. While the group rejected certain items some times, no single garment was rejected in all four situations. Usually one or two items were outstandingly designated as most appropriate. Choices of garments actually worn were more limited than ideal choices. Skirts, blouses, and sweaters almost comprise a uniform for these ninth graders. Noting discrepancies between ideal and actual clothing behavior, each garment worn but not indicated as being proper was called a variant. The sum of an individual's discrepancies was her variant score. Comparing the four roles, the most variants were in church attire where dress requirements are probably most rigid. Logically, the least variants were at home where several girls indicated that any attire was proper. A wide range occurred in the measurement of the girls' sensitivity to clothing and frequency of participation in activities indicating interest in clothing. The resulting Inumber was the awareness score which was used in analysis of variables. One highly significant relationship was produced: 67 girls with high clothing awareness were apt to have middle to high clothing satisfaction while girls rating low in awareness also had low satisfaction. In another relationship girls with high clothing awareness were most likely to say they felt differently dressed up. These feelings included more self-confident, more grown—up, more feminine, and more aware of clothes. As a rule the girls thought they were as well-dressed as the average girl in their age group or better dressed than average.’ They appeared to feel better dressed than Ryan's high school sample and comparable to her college group.1 The degree of satisfaction they expressed with their clothing varied from role to role, but approximately 80% of them said they were average in all situations. The percentage feeling better dressed than average was highest at church and lowest at home. Because they were dressed up at church they tended to rate themselves as appearing better dressed than the average girl. Regarding self-feelings, there was a tendency for those who considered themselves less well-dressed than average to want to change themselves some, while those who felt better dressed wanted to stay the same. Coleman revealed similar findings in his study where not being thought "Best dressed" by her classmates nearly doubled a girl's likelihood of wanting to be someone else.2 1Ryan,pp. cit., p. 25 2Coleman,pp. cit., p. 54. 68 Clothing behavior was initially assumed to be an in- herent part of role performance. The girls' opinions gave evidence that the assumption was valid. They implied that their actions in all roles were affected by their dress. Eighty per cent of the sample said certain clothes caused them to act a certain way. A change in dress often ac- companies a change in role and may even be the cause of role change or vice versa. Role and dress are integrated to the degree that certain roles require specific dress, and girls who do not have the proper dress may refuse to take part in the role or may wish they had not taken part. A minority of girls say they are unaffected by dress requirements. The consensus of ninth graders' opinions reveals that clothes may make them self-confident, more grown-up. better behaved, and more comfortable. The respective study reinforces other studies re- viewed in the literature. Varying clothing choices from role to role indicates an awareness that clothing is associated l with role. The number who said clothing made them feel more grown-up fit into Parsons' period of transition-—a time when 2 they are practicing for an adult role. The conformity of clothing choices in each role also shows that teen-agers are 1Stone, pp. cit., p. 86. 2Parsons, "Age and Sex in U.S.," p. 614. 69 very aware of approved rules related to dress.1 Vener's conclusion that feelings of high clothing deprivation occur less frequently when the father is in an occupation of high status is applicable to this sample.2 The majority of girls were from the two top socio-economic classes, and most of them felt dressed as well as average or better dressed than average. In spite of being consistently well-dressed, they were aware that certain types of clothing made them act different ways: one of these ways, more self-confident, was previously mentioned by a number of writers. Recommendations The main contribution of this study is an increase in the understanding of the importance placed on clothing by adolescents. A great deal of information has been revealed but, nevertheless, some methodological revision would improve the effectiveness of the instrument. Coding presented a few difficulties, particularly in the checklist section. The list was tested for understanding but not for inclusiveness. There— fore, some clothing items girls wore were not on the list. The entire questionnaire may have been more understandable had it been pretested orally as well as by writing. Re- finement of the measurement techniques for satisfaction, aware- ness, and variants may have yielded more significant lHurlock,.gp. cit., p. 221. 2Vener, pp. cit., p. 63. 7O relationships. The variant score could be used giving one point for each role in which a clothing discrepancy occurred limiting the range from zero to four and, thus, compacting the distribution. Forcing ideal choices to one outfit pre- sents another possibility. Use of the clothing and behavior questions with a low socio-economic class sample would be an interesting comparison. A sample could also be asked if they themselves saw a conflict in ideal and actual choices. Such an approach might delve more deeply into the relationships of conflicting role choices and the importance of clothing in adolescence. APPENDIX A THE QUESTIONNAIRE PART I Michigan State University 2-23-62 TCRA Department You and Your Clothing An Opinionnaire WHA! 2HI§ I§ ALL ABOUT Michigan State University is doing a study of the opinions young people in Michigan have about clothing. You can help us best by answering the following questions as clearly and carefully as you can. If there is something you do not understand, ask questions. You will be helped as much as possible. No one you know, not even your teachers, will ever see what you have written. INSTRUCTIONS This opinionnaire is in two parts. When you have finished the first part place it in the envelope and go on to the second. Sign your name to the first section. These questions are about yourself and your class. Do not sign the second section. For this part, we do not want to know‘who you are. Most of the questions can be answered by checking a blank or filling in a short answer. In those cases where you are asked to write out your own answer, space is provided for you to do so. 73 First, we‘would like some information about you. 1. 6. Your name . . last first middle When were you born? Month Day Year How many living brothers and sisters do you have? (Circle the correct number on each line, the 0 if none.) Brothers 0 l 2 3 4 or more Sisters 0 l 2 3 4 or more Who contributes most to the financial support of your family? Your father Your mother Some other person (Explain who this person is. For example, “my brother", "my uncle".) How far did this person mentioned above go in school?t No schooling Some grade school Graduated from grade school Some high school Graduated from high school Some college - Graduated from college Don't know Other (Explain) What does this person do for a living? (Write in the complete name 95 title of his or her job, not the company he or she works for.) 10. 11. 12. 13. 74 Describe as accurately as possible what this person makes or does on the job. (For example: he supervises the work of 15 office clerks: he sells from door to door: he oper- ates a farm of 160 acres: etc.) Does any other person contribute to the financial support of your family? Yes No If yes, explain who. (mother, father, brother, etc.) What church do you go to? How many clubs or organizations in school ggg outside of school do you belong to? None One Two Three Four or more Please list the clubs and organizations you belong to: What is the name and location of the grade school you attended? The people with whom we share secrets and spend most of our time are usually referred to as our "best friends.“ write the names of your two "best girl friends” in the 9th grade in the East Lansing High School. (If you only have one person you consider a "best friend". write her name only.) 1. 2. 75 If you have more than two ”best girl friends” in the 9th grade. write the other names in the spaces below. 1. 2. If your "best girl friends" are in another grade or in another school. write their names in the spaces below. Other Grade Other School 1. l. 2. 2. APPENDIX B THE QUESTIONNAIRE PART II CLOTHING OPINIONNAIRE Section II Now we will ask you some questions about clothing. them carefully and completely. are‘pg right or wrong answers. opinions are. This is not a test. We want to know what your Different people will have different opinions. Answer There How often do you do the following things? Check the appropriate column. Window-shop for clothing, Quite Frequently Frequent- 1y Occasion- ally Seldom Here—s. Look at or read fashion magazines Take special notice of clothing worn on TV or in movies ‘Take special notice of what peoPle around 2011 wear Discuss style changes with friends Go shopping with friends 2. Compared to others of your age, how well do you usually feel you are dressed for any Better dressed About average Not as well dressed Don't know occasion? 3. 78 Describe what you are wearing today. Include details such as a description of the style Coat: Main garments (dress, skirt, blouse, etc.): Head covering: Shoes: Stockings or bobby socks: Purse: Jewelry: Other: Do you like this outfit? Yes NO If no, why don't you like it? Compared to others of your age, how well do you usually feel you are dressed for school? Better dressed About average Not as well dressed Don't know 79 Two girls who had been swimming went into a drug store still wearing their swimming suits. The clerks looked at them dis- approvingly because they did not feel that swimming suits were the proper thing to wear in a drug store. The purpose of this section of the questionnaire is to ask you what clothes are proper for various situations. 6. What kinds of clothes are proper for girls of your age to wear to a church service on Sunday this winter? (not what 'ygg might wear in some instances or might see worn, but what is proper to wear.) Check all of the items on this page which would be appropriate. If you do not know what some of these items are, place a O in front of that item. ___coat of real fur like mink ___whimsey or veil ___coat with real fur trim “___scarf on head like mink ___small hat ___coat with raccoon collar ___large hat coat of synthetic fur no head covering plain colored dressy coat coat of bold, bright plaid mittens .coat of small check or plaid gloves car coat no gloves or mittens leather jacket ski parka or jacket III III suit ___shoes with 3" heels taffeta party dress ___1“ heels taffeta sheath dress ___flat, dressy shoes ___wool sheath dress ___loafers dress with full skirt .___tennis shoes sleeveless dress, no jacket ___sandals sleeveless dress with jacket ___knee-high socks or tights dress with low-cut neckline ___nylons dress with high neckline ___bobby socks ___no stockings straight or slim skirt billfold. no purse pleated skirt satin or velvet purse flared skirt small leather purse ___full gathered skirt ___medium-sized leather purse ___kilts ___large leather purse .__;knee ticklers (skirt above ___tote bag the knees) ‘__;bulky knit sweater ___slacks pullover sweater jeans ___cardigan sweater peddle pushers ___sweatshirt ___culottes ___tailored blouse ___Bermuda or Jamaica shorts dressy blouse short shorts llllll 80 ‘What kinds of clothes are proper for girls of your age to wear to school this winter? Remember not to check what you might wear in some instances or might see worn. but what is proper £2 wear? coat of real fur like mink coat with real fur trim like mink coat with raccoon collar coat of synthetic fur plain colored dressy coat coat of bold, bright plaid coat of small check or plaid car coat leather jacket ski parka or jacket suit taffeta party dress taffeta sheath dress wool sheath dress dress with full skirt sleeveless dress, no jacket sleeveless dress with jacket dress with low-cut neckline dress with high neckline straight or slim skirt pleated skirt flared skirt full gathered skirt kilts knee ticklers (skirt above the knees) bulky knit sweater pullover sweater cardigan sweater sweatshirt tailored blouse dressy blouse whimsey or veil scarf on head small hat large hat no hat mittens gloves no gloves or mittens shoes with 3" heels 1" heels flat, dressy shoes loafers tennis shoes sandals knee-high socks or tights nylons bobby socks no stockings billfold, no purse satin or velvet purse small leather purse medium-sized leather purse large leather purse tote bag slacks jeans peddle pushers culottes Bermuda or Jamaica shorts short shorts llllll lllllllll llllllll ll 81 What kinds of clothes are proper for girls of your age to wear to basketball games after school? coat of real fur like mink coat with real fur trim like mink coat with raccoon collar coat of synthetic fur plain colored dressy coat coat of bold, bright plaid coat of small check or plaid car coat leather jacket ski parka or jacket suit taffeta party dress taffeta sheath dress wool sheath dress dress with full skirt sleeveless dress, no jacket sleeveless dress with jacket dress with low-cut neckline dress with high neckline straight or slim skirt pleated skirt flared skirt full gathered skirt kilts knee ticklers (skirt above the knees) bulky knit sweater pullover sweater cardigan sweater sweatshirt tailored blouse dressy blouse whimsey or veil scarf on head small hat large hat no hat mittens gloves no gloves or mittens shoes with 3" heels 1" heels flat, dressy shoes loafers tennis shoes sandals knee-high socks or tights nylons bobby socks no stockings billfold, no purse satin or velvet purse small leather purse medium-sized leather purse large leather purse tote bag slacks jeans peddle pushers culottes Bermuda or Jamaica shorts short shorts 1 O 11. 82 What kinds of clothes are proper for girls of your age to ‘wear at home when they are watching TV or doing homework? suit taffeta party dress taffeta sheath dress wool sheath dress dress with full skirt sleeveless dress, no jacket sleeveless dress with jacket dress with low-cut neckline dress with high neckline straight or slim skirt pleated skirt flared skirt full gathered skirt kilts knee ticklers (skirt above the knees) bulky knit sweater pullover sweater cardigan sweater sweatshirt tailored blouse dressy blouse shoes with 3' heels 1" heels flat, dressy shoes loafers tennis shoes sandals knee high socks or tights nylons no stockings slippers slacks jeans peddle pushers culottes Bermuda or Jamaica shorts short shorts housecoat, robe, or duster pajamas Do you think a school should have any rules or regulations concerning dress? Yes No Why? Are there any rules or regulations concerning dress in your school? No Yes If yes, what are they? Who made these rules? 12. 13. 14. 15° 16. 83 Generally, how do you feel about your wardrobe? Very satisfied Usually satisfied Not very satisfied I don't like it Do you go to the basketball games after school? No Yes If yes, what did you wear last time you went to a basketball game? Coat: Main garments: Head covering: Shoes: Stockings: Purse: Jewelry: Other: Is this similar to what you usually wear to a basketball game? Yes ___ No If no, why wasn't it? Compared to others of your age, how well do you usually feel you are dressed for basketball games? Better dressed About average Not as well dressed Don't know , If you went to'a game with a boy, would you dress dif- ferently from the way you dress when you go with girls? No Yes If yes, what would be different? 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 84 Do you go to school dances after basketball games? __ Often ____Sometimes _ Never Did you go to a dance after the last game? Yes No Check the category which comes closest to your feeling about yourself: ___I don't like myself the way I am: I'd like to change completely. ___There are many things I'd like to change, but not completely. ___I'd like to stay very much the same; there is very little I would change. Have you ever refused to go any place because you felt you didn't have the right clothes to wear? ' No Yes If yes, where was it? What would you have needed to wear? Do you ever wear any of your sister's or mether's clothes? No Yes If yes, what items? Have you ever wished you hadn't gone some place because your clothes weren't right? No Yes If yes, what sort of occasion was this? Why weren't your clothes right? When you got home from school yesterday did you change clothes? No Yes 24. 25. 85 If yes, what did you put on? Shoes: Stockings: Main garments: Other: Was there any particular reason why you wore these clothes? Compared to others of your age, how well do you usually feel you are dressed at home? Better dressed About average Not as well dressed Don't know Did you go to a church service or Sunday school on a Sunday recently? Yes. If yes, describe what you wore last time you went. No. If no, describe what you could wear to church out of your present wardrobe. Coat: Main garments: Head covering: Gloves: Shoes: Stockings: Purse: Jewelry: Other: 26. '27. 28. 86 If you went to church, did you feel that you were dressed appropriately in this outfit? Yes No If no, what would you have liked to change? Compared to others of your age, how well do you usually feel you are dressed for church? Better dressed About average Not as well dressed Don't know Does your school have special dress-up days? No Yes If yes, do you feel any differently on that day when you are especially dressed up than you do on ordinary school days? __ No __ Yes If yes, in what way? Do you think the students act any differently on that day compared to ordinary days? Do you ever feel that certain types of clothes cause you to act a certain way? Give an example: APPENDIX C TABLES REFERRED TO BUT NOT INCLUDED IN THE TEXT 88 TABLE 25. Association of Weighted Clothing Satisfaction Scores and Variant Scoresa Variant Satisfaction Scores Totals Scores 5 6 7 8 9 10 ll 12 13 O l 8 9 l l l 3 3 14 l 23 2 l 2 5 2 l4 1 2 27 3 l 2 3 15 l l 23 4 1 2 1 3 12 19 5 2 10 12 6 1 1 8 10 7 2 2 5 l 10 8 l 2 1 l 5 9 1 1 4 l 7 Totals 4 5 6 10 18 92 5 3 2 145 x2 = 2.839 4 d.f. .so<113_