IIIIII IIIII IIIIIII I I 2 2 — 2 — THE USE OF EVAPORATED MILK IN INSTITUTION COOKERY THESIS IIIIR THE DEGREE [IF III. S. Florence J. Atwood 1932 THE USE OF EVAPORATED MILK IN I N 8 T I T U T I O N C O O K E R Y BY Florence J. Atwood Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science Department of Institution Economics Division of Home Economics Michigan State College 1932 THESIS ACKNOWDEDGMENT It is a pleasure to take this Opportunity to express in some measure, appreciation for the assist- ance of Mrs. Mabelle s. Ehlersin directing this investigation and in the preparation of this report; also to Dr. Marie Dye for her kindly advice and criticisms given; also for the generosity of the Evaporated Milk Association in providing financial support for the work. Special appreciation is due, also, to the Food Supervisor of the Women's Commons, whose splendid cooperation made this study pleasant. 93806 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction The Present Situation . . . . . . . . . page 1 The Object of Study . . . . . . . . . . page # Review of Literature . . . . . . . . . . . . page 5 Experimental Proceedure . . . . . . . . . . page 7 Discussion of Results . . . . . . . . . . . page 9 Discussion . . . . . . . . . Q . . . . . . . page 47 Conclusion and Summary . . . . . . . . . . . page 50 Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table Table III - IV - VI - VII VIII- IX - XI XII XIII- XIV - XVI - XVII- TABLES Scores for Cream Soups --------- p. 11 Comparison of Cream Soups -------- p. 12 Scores for Meat Dishes --------- p. 14 Comparison of Meat Dishes -------- p. 15 Scores for Creamed and Escalloped Vegetables ------------- pp. 17-18 Comparison of Creamed and Escalloped Vegetables --------------- p. 19 Scores of Mashed Potatoes -------- p. 21 Comparison of Mashed Potatoes ------ p. 21 Scores of Yeast Breads --------- p. 2} Scores of Quick Breads --------- p. 24 Comparison of Yeast Breads and Quick Breads ----------------- p. 25 Scores of Puddings ----------- p. 27 Comparison of Puddings --------- p. 28 Scores of Butter Cakes --------- p. 30 Comparison of Butter Cakes ------- p. 30 Scores of Whipped Evaporated Hilk- - - - p. 32 Comparison of Prices of Recipes ----- p. 33 THE USE OF EVAPORATED MILK IN INSTITUTION COOKERY Introduction The Present Situation. - - Institutions have considered evaporated milk an article to be kept on the shelves for use in time of emergency. The aim of this study was to show that evaporated milk may be used more extensively. Milk is composed of 87.1 per cent water (1). Tests show this water to be normal in every respect; that it has the same properties as naturally scouring waters, From the standpoint of distribution of milk, this water is a mill stone to the producer. It is bulky, requires much handling and is of no particular value. Reducing the bulk of milk by evaporation makcazpossible transportation at a minimum “-9 .cost, storage in hel s to equaltze sup- ply and demand. There is usually an’excesa_§EPPll_2f milk during May and June and often a shortage in October and \ ———s-. --'- n.--—. "|-_-I-w—.‘ EEZEEEEELg Theseiare_awfeg_gf_thg_conditions w h were an incentive to the develOpment of evaporated milk. .«dI— ‘- Evaporated milk is a development of the nineteenth century. It is cow's milk which has been reduced in volume at a low temperature, at a ratio of about two and one-half parts of fresh milk to one part of condensed milk and pre- served by sterilization in steam under pressure. Klt_ggg;_fi tain not less than 7. 8 per cent milk fat,_nor less than ”##me 25M 5 per cent of total milk solids; providedgflhgggyergthatW Mm MP..— he sum of the percentages of milk fat and total milk solids W ""~\\_“n~~ be not less than 33. 7 per cent" (2). w fMarket milk is the term applied to milk consumed in its fluid state in contradistinction to milk used for manu- facturing products such as butter, cheese, ice cream etc.” (3). The Uhited States Department of Agriculture Statistics show a steady increase in the amount of market milk sold since 1917. At the present time approximately 6,500,000,000 gallons are marketed annually. Some figures on the present size of the market milk industry present an interesting picture. “In 1929 New York received a daily average of 3,832,600 quarts of milk. This milk came from points between 44 and 450 miles distant; in New York, New Jersey, Vermont, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Connecticut and Canada. From the country the milk was transported by ten different railroads, although 30,000 gallons a day arrived by motor truck“ (3). In 1929, the population of Detroit, Michigan was 1,363,220. That year, its inhabitants consumed daily an average of 1,250,000 pints of milk. This milk came from points between 30 to 125 miles distant with less than 15 per cent of it being produced within a radius of 30 miles. It maintains 32 milk plants and 26,005 milk wagons. -3... These are only two of the leading milk markets in the United States. Markets comparable in size to these mention- ed are found in Boston, Philadelphia, Pittsburg, Cleveland, Chicago, Louisville, Seattle and San Fransciso. If these cities are located on a map, it will be noticed that most of them fall in the north eastern part of the United States. In this same area there are many other cities with a pop- ulation of 50,000 more or less, to be supplied with their share of milk. The market milk industry is already of great magnitude. If it continues to grow, are there railroad facilities which can transport the milk from the producer to the consumer? With the increased freight rates, will it be possible to receive a.price that will justify the cost of production? As the distance between the producer and consumer increases will the price of milk be such that the average family can afford to purchase the amounts desired? Are there sanitary conditions which will cope with the time element involved between the producer and consumer? Will it be possible for the supply to be adequate at all times? Milk buyers are regular consumers the year around and demand daily service. These are some of the problems that give impetus to the possibilities in the uses of evaporated milk. The first patent for condensing milk was granted to Gale Borden in 1856. Since that time many modifications of -4- the process have been invented. One of the modifications was discovered by Meyenberg, a native of Switzerland} He discovered that unsweetened condensed milk could be pre- served by heat sterilization. In 1884, he was granted in this country a.patent on his process. "Evaporated milk was first packed in this country on a successful basis under the Meyenberg process on June 15, 1885, at Highland, Illnois" (4). The annual production for 1931 was 1,804,930,000 pounds. Of this amount 145,922,000 pounds were canned whole evaporated milk (5). . ijegt,gi.fitudz. - - The study chosen for investiga- tion was threefold: A. To determine whether evaporated milk may be used in recipes in quantity cookery with approximately the same success as with market milk, B. To compare the general appearance, flavor and texture -——awefrfoods—prepared~with_srapnratsd_milk‘with the same qualities in those prepared with market milk, M N C. To Effigélfi—Dl19§§.0f recipes prepared with evaporated kxxx\~‘_~_-~‘_—_flfr~fl__‘~_#flix milk with those market milk. -5... Review of Literature The available literature on the use of evaporated milk in large quantity cookery is not extensive and consists al- most wholly of recipes. There is, however, considerable literature on the nutritive value of evaporated milk. Through studies in scientific laboratories, milk has been proven to be an indispensable food. McCollum (6) speaks of it as our most important food stuff because its composition is such that when used in combination with other food-stuffs, it corrects their dietary deficiencies. With the increasing tendency toward the use of such forms as evaporated, dried and pasteurized milk instead of raw milk, the expermental work which has been done in determin— ing whether or not the same reliance can be placed on these forms of milk as a source of proteins, minerals and vitamins as on pasteurized milk, is of interest. Willard and Blunt (7) made a study of the comparative influence of evaporated and commercially pasteurized milk on the calcium, phosphorous and nitrogen metabolism of four children and of three adults. To the children the diet which included evaporated milk resulted in a higher phosphorus retention in all four gasescand in a higher nitrogen and calcium retention in three of the four. Their conclusion is that evaporated milk appears to be a satisfactory source of calcium, phosphorus and nitrogen, slightly superior to pasteurized milk. - 6 - In referring to canned milks which comprise evaporated milk and condensed or sweetened evaporated milks, McCollum and Simmonds (6) state, I'In the heating process there is a tendency for the calcium of milk to separate as insoluble calcium phosphates, and the anti-scorbutic properties of the product are lost. The experiments of Daniels have shown that rats utilize the calcium in such milks. Samuel and Keck (8) recently made a study on the rela- tive quantitives of heat-stable and heat-labile fractions 6f vitamin B in raw and evaporated milk. Their results show that commercial evaporation of cow's milk destroys about one-sixth to one-fifth of the antineuritic heat-labile frac- tion, but found no identifiable destruction of heat-stable growth promoting fraction. In a study of vitamin C values of pasteurized milk, evaporated milk and eggs, Todhunter (9) found that vitamin G values for market milk and evaporated milk diluted accord- ing to the directions on the container, are substantially alike. Deming and Davis (10) made a bacteriogical investigation of evaporated milk and find that the milk as purchased in the local markets is not only free from pathogenic microorg— anisms, but may, for all practical purposes, be considered sterile. From the results of these experiments which have been conducted by various authorities it seems reasonable to con— - 7 - clude that evaporated milk may be relied upon, when used, as a source of minerals and vitamins the same as market milk. This assurance should encourage more liberal use of evaporated milk. Experimental Procedure Recipes using evaporated milk in place of market milk, were prepared in the kitchen of the Women's Commons and served in the dining room. After each recipe was prepared, it was studied and critized by various members of the in- stitution staff. The points considered were general appear- ance, flavor, and consistency or texture. The recipes used in this study, except those in appendix, were prepared and scored three times. The points considered were each given a value, and then scored by judges. The results of the study were found by making a comparison of the possible score with the judges score. ‘ The cost of each recipe was considered so that a com- parison of the prices of the two types of milk could be made. This information is found in Table XVII. Unless specified diluted evaporated milk was uséd in these rec- ipes. The prices were figured on the basis of evaporated milk at 52 cents per gallon and market milk at 30 cents per gallon. These were the prices which the Women's Com- mons paid for these commodities. - 8 e No study or comparisons were made as to the brands of milk being used. Occassionally a slight difference was noted in the color and thickness of the various cans of milk. However, these did not make any noticable difference in the final products. The use of evaporated milk in preparing small quantity recipes is more common than for large quantity. However since cooking for a unit larger than a family involves prob- lems vastly different from those arising when cooking for a small unit, the converting of these recipes into large quantity is not always satisfactory. Thea procedure used in this problem made possible an efficient approach to large quantity preparation. Serving the foods which had been prepared with evapor- ated milk, to the girls eating in the dining room of the dormitory, offered a field of unusual Opportunity because of the more or less critical attitude of this type of a group. Their meals are paid for in advance, they are asc— ustomed to the flavor of home cooked foods, to the flavor of fresh market milk, and to their mother's catering to their likes and dislikes. However, it was not noticable at any time, that the girls discriminated against foods in which evaporated milk was used.‘ Since this problem extended over a period of nine months, it gave ample opportunity to repeat the recipes a _ 9 - a number of times. This made it possible to standardize the recipes to such an extent that they may be reproduced by others with a high degree of success. Many additional recipes using evaporated milk, other than those included in this study were also prepared and served in the dining room of the Women's Commons. These recipes are found in the appendix. Discussion of Results In scoring these recipes each quality was given a value in points. General appearance and flavor were given equal value because the appearance of the food is often as much of a selling factor as the flavor. A copy of the score card which was used, is given below. Possible Judge's Score Score General appearance Flavor 4 Consistency 2 Creamed figgpg. - - The Soups prepared for this study were celery, corn, duchess, onion and pea. The data (Table I & II) show that the general appearance, flavor and cons sistency of the soups made with evaporated milk were sup- erior to those made with market milk. The smooth, creamy, velvet texture of soups made with evaporated milk could not be duplicated in soups made with market milk. The cooked - 10 - flavor of evaporated milk which is easily detected and to some peOple objectionable, was masked by the flavors of the other foods which were used in the soups. The Le Petit Gourmet of Chicago, which is a high class restaurant serving a critical clientele, has established a reputation for serving excellent creamed soups. Market milk as purchased, is placed on the back of the range and simmered until it is comparatively thick. This is then used for making the vardous soups without the addition of other thickening. This process gives to the milk a con- sistency similiar to that of evaporated milk since it is actually a reduced milk. The result is that the smoothness and creaminess of the soups is comparable to that made with evaporated milk. It seems that both time and expense would be saved by using evaporated milk instead of this process. V.._ ”H -11.. TABLE I k l .1 M t e k m _ V e O Q Q a e o T o I Q Q Q 0 C ‘ I O O O 1 v Q. 7...! Infush. .eSiUr§I\- (I! I" 1 I . ‘_I\a 18 HomuIamdwdeoa 3 E E E as a... E E 4322 led am: an mm min m6 ~13 a; T: TS min To 13 SSE o o o a o e c e 0 0HH Tm MOHH 0 “deU 6 am .3 w mm 0 0H 0 NH m w 0 ma H w w 3 w w m Henosmo d aaaaaawaaaa: I. My. Nd NI Nd My. Rd N! Nd RX Nd RX Nd SC. 1.8 1.0 T9 7:0 7:8 To 1.9 T0 T9 1.0 T8 To OT T:+ I: I4 II T4 T1 T:+ II 14 II T4 TI 09 x. we y. we r. as y. we X we y. we I 1. 1. no. 01 n? no. 8 9 9 8 9 9 a a P n. n. n. n. n. IquwLflmmda s m 5de smog 889 anode M152 93mm 53. 9mm. 039m aszD mnSom Echo zomHm«n§oo HH Hand“. . an: $129539 .9..3m|r~.#.....~&-rwaz “I; FIN . . . I w _ 13 - Mpg; Dishes. - - Milk curdled when pork chops were baked in it regardless of whether it was market or evaporated milk. Because of this no points were given for general ap- pearance. Table III presents these results. This same table shows that the general appearance was satisfactory when un- diluted evaporated milk was used. The milk and the bread crumbs formed a dressing over the chops which browned to a beautiful color without curdling. The results (Table IV) show that there is no apprec- iable difference in the flavor of the products when the diff- erent milks are used. The general appearance and consistency of the products using evaporated milk are slightly superior. The Chicken a la King recipe gives a most satisfactory product. The Ram en Panier is a good way to serve left over ham scraps. The green and red peppers used in Epis dish gives pleasing colors which add to the attractiveness. m' H fiafi’ilig . la. a £4“. hula)“. _ . N or»... n a w mnoow m.mwush Hence mnoom meHmmom Hmpoa oncom m muoom m.omUfih m.mmvnh eHnHmmom _ 1h - Table III k 1 .1 M d e t a I m. m a Evaporated Milk ed Milk a. 1?. «I . pl]. , ks..~.l.. l ,2 1 {M a l _ - 15 - am "flflw 1.41]. 3. mm sflwmm on on Tm mam o.m m6 aesepfinqau w: o.:: m.m: m.oa m.oa o.mH o.mH m.HH m.HH H.sH m.HH soeeaa . . . I . a H «HOH Gina dendhwm d ms in Mm a mm o o 0 ma 0 NH H S o m Handmade E E . .s m. n m n m. 8% NW new NW new NW Rm NW new NW ma OS I." .170 II 1.0 Tr?“ fro Trl Tro II Two at IX TI TX I: TX I1 TH Ix TX Ti 10. v49 YLB YIQ v49 3.3 3.? 1.9 3.9 3.9 v49 at 1. 0.. 0+ 4+ 1. 1. 1. a... 1. a... 9 9 a 9 9 9 D. D. D. D. D. LrIL. whoom #6909 w ona anon mmoq papa Medusa mm wad ma m saw gmMOfino MAHS BHMMm oszD mammHQ B

H Hands - 16 - Vegetable Dishes. - - Creamed and escallOped veget- ables in which both types of milk were used, were compared. The scores for these dishes are given in Table V. Results (Table VI) show the comparison of creamed asp- aragus, creamed carrots and creamed onions, and escallOped celery, corn and potatoes. The escalloped celery, corn and potato results show that the flavor is superior when market milk is used but that there is practically no difference in general appearance and consistency. It is reasonable to suppose that the same results would be obtained if other vegetables were prepared by these methods. - 17 _ Table V nowoom u.omush Haves canammom Hmpoa mnoom n.0mcnh oncom m.mmvdb whoom m.omudh maoom harassed k l .l m d e t a r m W Market Milk -15... . , TABLE v - Continued ==335 soonrs FOR CREAMED VEGETABLES USING EVAPORATED AMB MARKET MTLM 0 .—I .. ID HIS :3 m m m .3 mm ”ng3: .oaJ-o -o -o Hood-o $.th HHOH (DH 03-! (d-HH‘GQH 0.. mObDO 000 000 FIDO-P000 001m men-do co no 01110060 0”», course) am am («00:24:30) % n. r: v: "a n. "a 9 In Escalloped Corn - 3 47:: Evaporated Milk ; ,‘_:"; ereral appearappe It 3.: 35.89 43.0 1% 111.8 2:4 Elavpr 3L . ,9 ,Im on i tenc 2 2 0 2,0 6 6.0 —454 Escalloped Corn - -+¥a Market Milk 3;; Qpneral appearance 4 3JJ8__ 5.8 3.9 1,2 11,5 ,5 mm 4 .7 3.7 3.9 12 11,3 .LI... 0n istenc 2 1 2 0 6 8 +— Escalloped Potatoes - ='==_i Evaporated Milk ; ereral appearance 1’1; 353.9 4.0 4.0 1: 1(1) :x Ila12r_ .5 3.5 3. 1 IT; on istenc 2 1.8 1,9 1 T 6 - __§._: Escalloped Potatoes == Market Milk in; e ral a earance 4 8 3.9 3.9 12 11,6 'tt Elaypr_ u ,8 3.9 3.8 12 11.5 ”if nsi ten 2 1 8 1 8 1 T V‘I’“’ ( A. :y.‘ .. ) \ u L . n. I: c 0 Q I u q I b o n t u n e 9 yr... Apia. 171...»... I... m “.mm m.mm m.m w.m mam o.m ~.m‘ o.m mdm o.w m.m m.m m.m ,wmn Modwpmfimsoo . mm w.~m m.H #.oa m.HH m.HH o.HH w.HH m.ma o.mH m.dfi m.HH m.HH o.oa Hoseah my a m.mw m.om m.HH m.HH mqaa w.HH ~.HH o.mH m.NI HEQH ~.mn o.mH m.Hd‘w¢HH dccsflmwmsoo . MHHNJJNNNNHH new. .n m. .fi m. m. u. m. 8 w" m w" m. as We Nd We Nd MW 4% Na... Win Hm“ Nd Na Nd Na Nd 08 TI TO _}I T0 T: T0 T9 To .tI To II To T1 to $3 as nu as as as n... E. nu nu na na an as I 4 4 4 4 a? 4 vs“ 1. 4 n+ 4 1. 4 9 9 a 9 a a 9 a n. n. n. n. n. n. P onoom unopened 500 $0 mined mp0. .30 Immmlldflflmnm H309 undoing Unanimous uoqofiscfl ceases Sandman cosmos «own 924 amaammo mo zomHmmmnoo MAHE FEES." Q24 amaéomifi .0sz3 mmqm4amcm> QHmOAJ Hb HA9; -20.. Mashed Pptatoes. - - The mashed.potatoes using both types of milk were scored at different times. The results are found in Table III. The results on Table VIII show that mashed potatoes in which evaporated milk was used, were superior. The quality of the potatoes used was poor, but nevertheless the results were satisfactory. It gave to the potatoes a superior flavor, more body and a creamier, fluffier consistency than when whole milk and butter were used. Although mashed potatoes have a bla . , the r”\ characteristic flavor of evaporated milk, which is disliked -.___.- h“._,_, Ex _’.___,_-—...1 by some individuals, is not objectionable. Since the flavor and mashing qualities of potatoes vary with the season and age of potatoes, a check was made at different times during the year, therefore these results may be regarded as average. - 21 - TABLE VII OJ 0) 00 03 (D H +3 -o-m .0 HQ 0 0H 0H 0H (0-H 5:! 02 mo hDO (300 Pl!) 0'!) U) 'dO'dO 'dO om O :30) :30) 5CD E40 H '1 *3 *3 04 £1. Evaporated Milk Market Milk, Butter * Undiluted TABLE VIII COMPARISON OF MASHED POTATOES Milk Score Market Possible - 22 - ngag,apdugp;pk Breads. - - Tables IX and X give the results of the various scorings of breads and quick breads. Table XIshows that no difference could be found in these products when the two milks were used. At various times individuals, other than the judges, were shown these products But they were never able to detect any differences -23.. TABLE IX 3 ORESOF YEAST BREADS USING EVAPORATED AND MARKET MILK monoom 000 000 000 000. Bomudh. 22 22 22 2 4“de9 11 ll 11 ll manammom 22 L2 22 22 H38 11 ll 11 ouoom 0.00 0&0 OLOL 0 e e a gamma. 41,2 442 44 2 :3. 0.0m omo 0. 0. Pmmunh 44.2 4 2 44 2 1 F. .L_ 28. omo owe. mm 0. Pomona. L42 442 44 2 93% 2 manfimmom 412 44,2 44 k k l 1 .1 .1 Me e Me O k0 C k0 dn 1n dn 1 mm Mm mm mr aa a as a I8 .33 I .3 0p 8 0 8 pp k p. k. aa ma m ra m1 eM . E m e arr arr ar arr .I0u_rou .I ..IOU th 8V...» V BVU dn xdnaxsn is ax aelea 618 ,18 e m in n a B R R _ 24 - TABLE I menoom m.omv§h Haves manammom Hmpoa mnoom n.0mu5h onoom m_omc5h onoom m.omwdh manfimmom Evaporated Milk Market Milk -25.. em m.mm w.mm o.m o.m m.m mdm‘ o.m o.m o.m o.m manpxoa mi Oowfi 0.3 O-NH OomH OoNH O'NH O.NH O.NH OcmH Coma W: mow: mom: O-NH O.NH OcHH O¢HH O.NH OomH OomH OomH m m. a d A m. A A m. 8% NW ma NW Kw NW 4% Wm" Kw New" “w 08 II 1.0 1.; IO 7:... 1.0 1.1 To II 1.0 0.... I3. I: Iva I1 TX. I... IN. II In. I: Tuq xe v49 v49 v43 v43 V4.9 XS FAD. «1.9 v4? 9 I 0? Q? 0.: or? flu? fl? 0? 0:? fl? QT a 9 a a a 9 p p p p p 38m :38. 3288 42:3: fl om edullnm MAHE BHMmg 92¢ Qflaéomfibm OZHmD mag MOHD mz< madam” Ema? .mO zomHmdwmfioo HN HA9; -26- guddingg. - - The results in Table;XII show that grapenuts pudding prepared using the evaporated milk un- diluted, was superior to that prepared with diluted evap- orated milk and also to that prepared with market milk. The results in Table XIII show that there were no appreciable differences in the general appearance, flavor and consistency of the deserts used in this study. These deserts were Baked Custard, Grapenuts Pudding, Peach and Rice Pudding and Chocolate Pudding. _ 27 _ TABLE XII Evaporated Milk Market Milk 8 Evapora ed Milk 3 Market 8 ed Evaporated Milk Evaporated ce Market Milk ed Milk 6 1 A v v c O 0 C a u s I I v o o i Lu"! - .. . nun! 2‘ .Ul..r. .Af. m, w .. .I b I. 4 - _28- :m m.om N.Hm m.m o.m o.m m.m m.m\. m.m oum m.m NocoPWHdmdu mi :.:: m.m: ~.HH N.HH a.HH o.HH 0.0H H.HH N.OH m.0H Hebddw we 13 0.3 ma: 0: 4.: m2: o.mH 0.3” N: 0.: 0823..., H 3 m m. n m n m. m. n m n w 83 We Kw He Kw WW Wfi We Kw We Ed 08 II 10 TI 10 II to II To T1 To 0? IX I: IX I1 IX II IX II IX II 10. Re X9 19 He Xe In, Xe X2 X9 12 a I 0.7 1. a... 1. n... 1. no. n... 1. 0+ 9 9 9 3 8 9 o. P n. P p. onoom H nos .9: and .2; 9:" mg. nfi endpmg . upmaooogo moam a flog mpsaogmnc 6325 [I'll MAHE ammm<fi 024 amam omHmD mqunoDm ho momHm