.19.”,- “v.30? new. a. 12... . 1.47.... r. .v .e 1.31 a i 1 av .. ,_ 443-. vb A 4 E .,v n a, 5&3»... ”w . .flan..Wpa. . {3" r J 5 a?“ 9%”. MW 49% , «Airy flu _ new...” 5 L .ui. ~t c... l.l A O . .. A... AA pl. u . . ..A. .A.. Flatwhflvbkpnnfl find 5. 0 s i ..A I «I 5:. Irrq...1ldwosv::?:..1.30.4.4! A..)‘._.~Orvt2'. asVllonv.... b. .. o. b.x..,-:.._ L, n.- . A A t .. :. Zhuwv .‘NHA 5...... I Alli \ I... Av r. 2 .r .u . . . A L «any»... 111 c n 4. V. » 41‘» >0 4 up . l 7 .Inrl .2 VJ «A .9" ADOLESCENT OHIENTATIONS TO CLOTHING: A SOCIAL—PSYCHOLOGICAL INTERPRETATION By Arthur M . Vener AN ABSTRACT submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan State University of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of Sociology and Anthropology Approved 1957 Arthur M, Vener The main problem area of this study was centered around the attempt to explain differences in adolescent clothing orientations within a social-pscyhological frame of reference. Consideration was given to (l) clothing awareness - level of "sensitivity" to clothing in social life, (2) clothing deprivation - sentiments of adequacy- inadequacy of clothing behavior in respect to other persons, and (3) clothing referents - salient persons referred-to in the determina- tion of the legitimacy of clothing behavior. Variations in (l) cloth- H'- ing awareness was examined in terms of differences in (a) sex status, E - “-, __, .,__ (b) age-grade status,-(c) social class status and related variables, and (d) conceptions of self. Some of these variables were also em- ;flcyed to eXplain differences in (2) clothing deprivation. Specific hypotheses which involved these variableS'were proposed. A question- naire'was developed in order to test the proposed hypotheses, along With other facets of the problem area, and was administered to a sample group of 8th, 10th, and 12th grade boys and girls in the Lansing school system. A number of operational techniques were used to measure the variables involved and were described in some detail. The Statistically significant findings concerning areas (1) clothing awareness and (2) clothing deprivation may be briefly summarized as follows: 1. girls demonstrate greater clothing awareness than boys. Arthur M. Vener 2. Girls who participate more in organizational activity, i.e., belong to more organizations and hold some official position in these organizations, tend to demonstrate greater clothing awareness. 3. Girls who are more socially confident tend to be less aware of clothing. h. Boys and girls who are more other-directed tend to be more aware of clothing. For girls alone, the statistical significance of the association and degree of association of these variables is much greater. 5. Boys and girls in higher grades tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than those in the lower grades. 6. Boys and girls whose fathers are in occupations of higher status tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than those whose.fathers are in occupations of lower status. 7. Boys and girls who participate more in organi- zational activity tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than those who are low participators. 8. Boys and girls who demonstrate more social confidence tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than those who are not as socially confident. 9. Boys who are more aware of clothing tend to ' express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than those who are not as aware of clothing. In respect to personal referents in clothing behavior, it was found that an adolescent's mother and his peers are highly salient referents in decisions dealing with dress selection, while his father is of relatively low saliency. Also, older brothers and sisters prove to be significant referents for those adolescents who have older Arthur M. Vener 3. siblings in their family. In respect to the kinds of persons adoles— cents aspire to emulate in their patterns of dress, it was established that his peers are selected most frequently. It was also noted that mass-media Hollywood, television, and sports figures have some impact upon adolescent patterns of dress. However, it was concluded that those persons with whom an adolescent interacts on a primary group, face-to-face basis, exert relatively greater influence upon his cloth- ing behavior than those with whom his interaction is of a secondary group, more formal nature. The association of grade, social class status, and differences in sex with the relative tendency to refer to two highly salient referents, "mother" and peers, in clothing selection decisions was also investigated. The statistically significant findingS'were: (1) Boys and girls in the lower grades tend to refer to "mother“ more frequently than do those in the higher grades; (2) Girls tend to refer to "mother" more frequently than do boys; and (3) Girls in the lower grades tend to refer to their peers more frequently than do girls in the higher grades. And finally, it was noted that 12th graders as a group, tended to refer less frequently to specific other persons in their responses to the clothing referent items than did the lower graders. It was therefore suggested that by the time the adolescent reaches the 12th grade, clothing norms are effectively internalized. ” — ‘- Subtrima State l in ADOLESCENT ORIENTATIONS TO CLOTHING: A SOCIALPPSYCHOLOGICAL INTERPRETATION By Arthur E. Vener A THESIS Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan State University of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of Sociology and Anthropology 195 7 1/" 7 .- fg @9333 ACKNOWLEDGEthTS The Michigan State University Experiment Station has sponsored research pertaining to the social aspects of clothing since the summer of 1950. This research was initiated largely through the efforts of Dr. Charles P. Loomis, Head of the Department of Sociology and Anthro- pology, and Professor Hazel B. Strahan, Head of the Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts. The investigation reported in this dissertation represents a new phase of this research. The writer wishes to acknowledge the assistance of the guidance committee, all of whom were more than generous in giving of their time. Particular indebtedness is acknowledged to Dr. flilbur Brookover, who in assuming major responsibility for the guidance of the dissertation, provided understanding, encouragement, and direction to a frequently harried candidate; to Dr. Duane Gibson, who contributed invaluable assistance in all aspects of the study, and for his penetrating criticism 0f the manuscript in its later stages; to Dr. Charles Hoffer and Dr-iTilliam Form, who also read the manuscript and suggested revisions; and t0 (Eregory Stone, for his aid in designing the study and in the d"3"91‘3Pment of the final instrument. fPhe writer wishes to express his gratitude to the administrators, teacuerss, and students of both the Flint and the Lansing school systems, the forflusr for their cooperation in the pre-testing of the questionnaire and the Alatter for their cooperation during its final administration. Tue hell) given by the many graduate assistants and faculty members during the ad nit. i achovdaigei . Finally , {I to his rlf e, .sai \ of a congenial he." IL I iii. during the administration of the final questionnaire should also be acknowledged. Finally, the writer wishes to express his sincerest gratitude to his wife, hadeline R. Vener, who often had to forego the pleasures of a congenial husband during the writing of this dissertation. _—_ u-___——. ‘ LIST . W:' - I “‘-“ U. Chapter I. I? T\" . in. f, (I [1? Etc] ’71 TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES . ..... . . . Chapter I. INTRODUCTION . . A Introductory Comments . . . C II. mmwmgo o o e e o e e 0 III. CORRELATES OF CLOTHING AWARENESS AND CLOTHING . The Questionnaire . . . . The Sample. . . . . . . . Measurement of Variables. . . Statistical Techniques. . . UOUJZD DEPHIVATION: THE HIPOTHL‘BES TESTED B. Review of Related Substantive Studies . . Problem, Variables, and Hypotheses. A. Clothing Awareness and Independent Variables . . B. Clothing Deprivation and Independent Variables . . . . . . . . . C. Summary . . . . . . . . . . . IV. PERSONAL REFERENTS IN CLOTHING BEHAVIOR. . . . V A. Relative Saliency of Clothing Referents . B. Salient Clothing Referents and Independent Variables . . . C 0 3mm 0 e o o o o o e o . SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS. . . . . . LITERATURECITE)..........-oo APPEIDIX A . APPENDIX B . THE<>iological Studies: The research design of most of the above reviewed studies was f0(tused around the attempt to explain differences in clothing behavior in terms of differences in individual personality systems. Such a con- cep‘tual scheme minimizes the vital symbolic function of clothing in inter-personal relationships .3 In contrast to this, the symbolic function or c310thingwas the prime element employed in the following research in \ lVener, gp. cit., pp. 11—12. 2mm, p. 12. 3We have briefly discussed this element in our opening remarks. .11“ ill-qultulvrjr. flu . a L . ,1 m N w . -M... 13. . attempting to explain variations in clothing behavior. These studies fall within our second category, the sociological framework. ZThe first of these investigators, Rosencranz, in studying dif- ferences in clothing interest of 180 married and unmarried women, de- veloped a questionnaire which attempted to ascertain differences in degree of clothing interest through reported differences in amount of "time, energy, money, thought, and attention given to clothing" .1 The author found that rural or urban background, age, occupation, and income were related to total scores on the interest in clothing questionnaire. Other elements, education, marital status, children in the family, and membership in organizations were related to a person's interest in cloth- ing to a lesser degree. In general, urban (cities of 10,000 or more) Persons had higher clothing interest than rural people, people in higher income brackets also had more clothing interest, younger women had higher clothing interest than older persons, single women had more interest in clothing than married women, and childless married women had higher interest than married women with children. The group of college students Was found to have a higher interest in clothing than the group which con- Sisted largely of factory workers and business women/.7 Vener,2 in a study completed in the spring of 1953, employed a m“ii-fled Guttman-type scale to measure the personal estimates of clothing importance of 88 married men in a southern Michigan town of 10,000. The anthor demonstrated empirically that personal estimates of clothing im- \ Sel lMary Lou Rosencranz, "A Study of Interest in Clothing Among Th e‘Eted Groups of Married and Unmarried Young Women", Unpublished Master's 00313, Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts, Michigan State ba .ege, 19118. Three of Rosencranz's most discriminating items were the 315 of Ryan's index of clothing interest. See supra, pp. 11-15. 2Vener, 22. _c_1_._§_. 111. portance was related to social status, to vertical social mobility, and to the degree of social participation. He observed that those individuals in the medium-high social class status group had the greatest proportion - of persons who had received high clothing importance scores, while cloth- ing seemed to decrease in importance for those in the highest status categories. He further observed that these middle class persons also exhibited the largest ratio of upward occupational mobility and the greatest degree of social participation. The researcher offered three possible explanations in his attempt to interpret the relative low estim- ates of clothing importance by individuals in the highest social position categories]': (1) The responses of individuals from the highest status levels were often based upon specific projected situations, i.e., parties, Picnics, business meetings, etc. , and consequently, were given medium, or even low scores. (2) The highest status individuals may have already at- tained their status goals, or more likely may have obtained their high status positions from family membership. Therefore, clothing as a symbol or success or as a means to a higher status goal is of little consequence in the social life of these people. (3) The mass production of clothing has Probably decreased its value as a status symbol for persons of high status, and more emphasis has been placed upon such symbols as birth, inheritance, and "culture” for communicating their status to others. A further finding, worth noting, was that of all the indices of social class 8ta‘tus employed by the author, occupational prestige and its highly related variable, source of income, demonstrated the greatest degree 01‘ relationship to personal estimates of clothing importance. \ 1 Vener, gp. cit., pp. 83-81;. 15. And finally, Grayl, in analyzing the fashion behavior of 98 married women, demonstrated four types of orientations to fashion: (1) the mimetic type included those women whose main concern was toward relative inconspicuousness and conformity to fashion, (2) the individ- ualistic type contained those who wished to draw attention to themselves through the wearing of attractive and fashionable clothing, ( 3) the condition-inhibited type who felt that certain conditions over which she had no control kept her from wearing fashionable clothing, and (h) the non-rationalizing women who accepted fashion as a legitimate goal, but formulated no rationalization for her behavior. The individualizing 1Gray, Corinne, ”Orientations to Fashion", unpublished ALA. Thesis, Department of Soci010gy and Anthropology, Michigan State College, August, 1953. Vener's and Gray's research represent completed phases of the ”Clothing Project" which was sponsored by the Anchigan State University bhcperMent Station. Since other completed phases are of less direct rel- evance to a study of adolescent clothing orientations, they will not be reviewed above. Some of these works are: G. P. Stone, W. H. Form, and Hazel B. Strahan, "The Social Climate of Decision in Shopping for Clothes", anal of Home Economics, Vol. 116, No. 2, (Feb. 1951:), pp. 86-88, in which the authors consider some social and social psychological factors that enter into the shopping situation to determine a homemaker's de- cisions about clothing purchases 3 G. P. Stone and 'fl. H. Form, "Clothing Inventories and Preferences Among Rural and Urban Families", Michigan State College Agricultural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin No. 2146, M"'Jl-r‘ch 1955, in which the authors demonstrate that social factors effect the number of clothing items owned and the preferences people have for their selection and use; and W. H. Form and G. P. Stone, "The Social SiSnificance of Clothing in Occupational Life", Michigan State College Agricultural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin No. 2117, June 1955, in much the authors show that individuals in different occupational positions d""1101’181irate different orientations to clothing. Also, another study, not dir'ectly connected with the Experiment Station "Clothing Project" should be mentioned here, namely, flargaret Cynthia Warning, "The Implications 0‘ Social Class for Clothing Behavior: The Acquisition and Use of Apparel f°r Gilf‘ls Seven, Eight and Nine Years of Age in Three Social Classes in Des Moines, Iowa", unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Department of Sociol- ogy and Anthropology, Michigan State University, June 1956. In this research the author shows that practice in the acquisition, use and care of g‘l‘rmel’lts for girls seven through nine years of age varied with social Class Statum . 16. types were generally persons with higher social class status and also those who were oriented to an urban way of life (cosmopolite). The greatest percentage of the non-rationalizing and conditioned-inhibited types were from the lower strata and the greatest percentage of the mimetic type were from the lower middle strata. In contrasting a fifth type, means-oriented, those who saw fashion as a means of achieving other social goals, with the conditioned-inhibited type, Gray demonstrated that the means-oriented generally had more education, more income, more upward religious mobility, and more upward occupational mobility. These means-oriented individuals also were from the upper, upper middle, and lower middle strata, and were more urban oriented. Problem, Variables, and Hypotheses Each actor in a social system has a pattern of relations-to- ObJ'ects which can be referred to as his "system of orientations."l These objects, which are the components of a situation, may be goal °b330ts (human or non-human), resources, means, conditions, or symbols and they may have differential meaning to different people. The actor's system of orientations constitute one of the guides to his behavior in each or the complex social roles in which he is involved .2 Since clothing \ k lTsleott Parsons and Edward A. Shils, Toward _a_ General Theogy 3f. M (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, I952! p. 511'. So 2Merton defines the concept of "orientation" as follows: "The In c131 orientation differs from the social role. Hole refers to the mm?“ in which the rights and duties inherent in social position are it? 1“to practice; orientation . . refers to the theme underlying the ample): of social roles performed by an individual. It is the (tacit or r0lib-cit) theme which finds expression in each of the complex of social of $3 in which the individual is implicated." Robert K. Merton, "Patterns Reslr‘fluence", in Paul F. Lazarsfeld and Frank Stanton, Communications w 19118-19119 (New York: Harper and Bros., 191:9), P.1F. 17. is a component object in most social action situations, it is assumed that orientations to clothing are an integral aspect of these action situations. In this study, we shall analyze three types of orientations A to clothing manifested by adolescents. These include: (l) clothing awareness - level of "sensitivity” to clothing in social life, (2) clothing deprivation - sentiments 01‘ adequacy-inadequacy of clothing be- havior in respect to other persons, and (3) clothing referents - salient persons referred to in the determination of the legitimacy of clothing behavior. Variations in (1) degree of clothing awareness will be exam- ined in terms of differences in (a) sex status, (b) age-grade status, (C) Social class status and related variables, and (d) conceptions of self . Some of these variables will also be employed to explain differ— ences in (2) sentiments of clothing deprivation. Specific hypotheses will be presented. The limited existing data related to (3) personal r efe?l"¢=:1’lts in clothing behavior does not permit the formulation of a Specific, logically deduced, set (of relationships. The prime focus here Will be centered around the problem: What effect does age-grade, sex, and Social class have on the different salient referents employed by adolescents in the determination of the adequacy of their clothing be- hawi°1‘? The specific hypotheses are listed and explained below. I. 935333 2;: Clothing Awareness: Hypotheses A. Age—Grade. Clothing awareness will 23 positively % 19 W} As the child matures the roles he is called upon to play become more complex and greater in number. He is more likely \_ ‘ 1Although it is realized that some age overlapping will exist in at“ 8(211001 system, grade achieved in school will be employed as a measure °f general age-grade status. to come into contact with a greater number of strangers in his daily activities. These factors, inherent in the socialization process, will instill a greater awareness of the symbols which differentiate the statuses. B. Sex. M will demonstrate more clothing awareness £1333 291.: A casual analysis of magazine copy will reveal an overwhelm- ing amount of space given over to fashion in women's dress as compared to that of men.1 The girl is constantly being bombarded with clothing fashion advertisements from the mass media. In the upper and middle classes , especially, girls are much more frequently reminded than boys of the importance of dress as a manipulative symbolic device. The rel- ative importance of female clothing behavior in Veblen's presentation or his principle of conspicuous consumption should be noted here.2 C. Social Class and belated Variables. 1. Social class status. Clothing awareness will Pg pggitively related 33 social class w. Several empirical studies, ‘I'EViewed above, demonstrated a relationship between clothing importance and clothing interest with so’cial class status. It was noted in the study made by Vener that adults of higher class status showed the greatest de- gree 0f Personal estimaions of clothing importance. It is suggested ‘— lB . Barber and L. S. Lobel in "'Fashion' in Women's Clothes :3? the American Social System", Social Forces, XXXI, No. 6 (December, . 2): 12h~131, analyze copy of a number of women's fashion magazines :nd demonStrate the functional relationship of fashion to the Amsrican 33 Structure, age—sex roles, and the economic system. 2 Thorstein Veblen, The Theo of the Leisure Class (New York: The Mode edi rn Library, Inc., 15314 - flan-5113' published in 1899; the new tion "as published in 1918. 19. that the offspring of these individuals, through the socialization process, will demonstrate a high degree of clothing awareness. 2. Organizational activity. Clothing awareness Will be positively related £3 organizational activity. Those adolescents Who are more active in social life are also more likely to become aware of the communicative value of dress as an aid in the correct appraisal of others' statuses. These boys and girls are more likely to become "sensitized" to subtle differences in dress which determine an individual's social category. 3. Identification 3.1.21 M slag. Clothing gareness will be positively related 3.3 social class identification. It is proposed that the adolescent who identifies with the upper and middle classes will tend to show relatively higher clothing awareness than those who identify with the "working" or lower classes .1 h. Aspirations. Clothi__ng awareness 123;]; be EQSitively related 23 occupational _a_r£1_ educational aspirations. It is l'D’I-Jcthesized that adolescents who aspire to achieve occupational positions or high prestige will demonstrate greater clothing awareness than those who desire occupational positions of relatively low prestige. It is anticipated that these upward striving children will come, for the most Part, from the higher socio-economic strata. Here they are imbued with the ideology of "success” by their upward looking parents who are Probably more sensitive to the symbols which differentiate the social strata. In this social milieu, boys and girls are taught the need to lThis hypothesis has reference to subjective self identification Vith social class membership, whereas hypothesis I-C-l has reference to actual social class membership based upon objective evaluation. See ChaPter II for the method employed to measure social class status. III; it}. 1‘ n. W ‘5‘». .n U. ‘II—{l’t E17: 1! In“ t . . V a 20. sacrifice in order to obtain the required education.for the "right" job. As part of this ideology of success the value of "appearance” in making the ”proper” impression on others will be stressed. Variations on the theme, ”clothes make the man", will be ingrained into the adolescent living in such a social environment. D. Self Conception Variablgg. 1. Social confidence. Clothigg awareneSS'will‘bg negatively related tg social confidence. Ryan, whose research and con- clusions are reviewed above, found a slight tendency for those boys and‘ girls who showed the least general security (shyness, lack of self- confidence, difficulty in making friends) to have higher clothing inter- est than those who demonstrated a high general security. An attempt will be made to corroborate and enlarge upon Ryan's finding. In general then, the proposal is that the less social confidence an adolescent reveals, the greater will be his clothing awareness. 2. Other-directedness. Clothing awareness will be positively related 33 other-directedness. Riesman has characterized the "new" middle and upper middle class of today as cosmopolitan oriented and other-directed.1 The otherbdirected individual is a product of his peer-groups, demonstrating high sensitivity to the opinions and feelings of members of these groups. "While all people want and need to be liked by some of the people some of the time, it is only the modern other- directed typeS‘who make this their chief source of direction and chief area of sensitivity."2 With this concept of other-direction in mind, it 1David Riesman, 223 Lonely Crowd (New Haven: Yale University Press), 1950. 21bid., p. 23. 21. is is proposed that thexnore other-directed an adolescent is the higher will be his clothing awareness. 3. Sentiments gf clothing deprivation. Clothing .awarenesS'will 23 positively related 23 sentiments 23 clothing depriva— 3223. The more an individual is cognizant of dress, the more frequently will he tend to perceive "flaws“ in his clothing when he compares himself with other people. Therefore, it is suggested that the more intense the expressed sentiments of clothing deprivation are, the greatervwill be the clothing awareness.l II. Sentiments 23 Clothing Deprivation: Hypotheses. A. Age-grade. Sentiments gf clothing deprivation will.b§ positively related t9 age-grade. The adolescent who expresses dissatis- faction with the clothing he possesses and who feels he is dressed more poorly than others is displaying sentiments of relative deprivation.2 In order to develop such sentiments the individual must compare himself 'With others in respect to certain factors and judge himself deprived in relationship to these others. As the adolescent gets older, his role playing activities become more complex and diversified. Through the socialization process, he will be made increasingly aware of the im- portance of dress as a communicative device. It is proposed that the 1In this study, the variable "sentiments of clothing deprivation" is used both as an independent self-conception variable and as a depend- ent variable. The proposed hypotheses in respect to its use as a de- pendent variable follow below. 2Merton sees "relative deprivation" as a special concept in refer- ence group theory. See Robert K. Merton and Alice S. Kitt, "Contributions to the Theory of Reference Group Behavior", in Robert K. Merton and Paul F. Lazarsfeld (eds), Continuities in Social Research (Glencoe: The Free Press, 1950) pp. hO-IOS. ‘— 22. higher the age-grade status of an adolescent is, the more will he tend to demonstrate sentiments of clothing deprivation. B. £95. 21115 will demonstrate sentiments 3i: clothing deprivation more frequently than boy_. As mentioned above, through the socialization process, girls are made more aware of the comnmnicative function of dress as an aid in differentiating the social strata. It is suggested that this process results also in a greater sensitivity to Possible "gaps” in what is considered to be an "adequate" wardrobe. C. M 95153. 9.99. Related Variable. 1. Social Class Status. Sentiments 2f cloth_i_ng' S‘E‘Brivation will 333 negatively related t_o_ social class status. The parents of an adolescent Who is from the higher social classes are more likely to have the requisite purchasing power to acquire for him what is socially defined as an "adequate” wardrobe. Therefore, it is expected that individuals of higher social class status will tend to express sentiments of clothing deprivation less frequently than those of lower class Status . fl 2. Organizational activity. Sentiments gt; clothing W will. ‘_b_e negatively related t3 organizational activity. Above, it was proposed that there would be a negative relationship between social class Status and sentiments of clothing deprivation, that is, the higher the Class, the lower the sentiments of clothing deprivation. Since a “1”“er 01‘ studies have shown a strong relationship between social class and the degree of organizational participation, i.e., adolescents of ‘ higher s<><:ial class position tend to participate more in in-school and out‘sch‘ml organizations, it is hypothesized that clothing deprivation w 111 also be related to organizational activity - the greater the 23. organizational activity, the less the tendency to express intense sentiments of clothing deprivation. D. Self Conception Variables. 1. Social confidence. Sentiments 9_f_'_ clothing diprivation will b_e_ negatively related 39 social confidence. many of the studies reviewed above, established that being well-dressed enhanced one 's self-esteem. Further empirical corroboration and qualification will be attempted. Hence, it is hypothesized that the greater the social confidence, the less will be the tendency to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation. 2. Other-directedness. Sentiments of clothing deprivation will pg positively related 39 other—directedness. Riesman's concept of other-directedness, considered above, leads us to suggest that the more other-directed an individual is, the more intense will be his feelings of clothing deprivation. Ckflx’Ttflh II PROCEDURE This research was initiated primarily for the purpose of testing specific hypotheses related to adolescent clothing orientations. Since broad statistical analysis was intended in the consideration of these hypotheses, a relatively large number of subjects was needed. It was decided, therefore, that a standardized, group administered question- naire was the most feasible instrument which could be employed. The development of this questionnaire, the sample selected, the measurement of variables, and the various statistical methods used are considered below , The Questionnaire The writer has been collecting data relevant to the develOped PPOblem area for several years . The information was gathered by: (1) informal interviews, (2) direct observation of school extra- curricular activities ,2 (3) compositions written on such themes as "If you Could dress like anyone you please, who would you choose and wmr?" - "What, have been some of your most pleasant and unpleasant experiences with Clothing?" - "What has been your most embarrassing experience?" and 0‘) insights gained from other closely related substantive studies, ——-\ lSee Chapter I, section on "Problem, Variables, and Hypotheses." 2The writer's wife has been a high school teacher of English and basketball coach, and thus he was able to attend many school one inconspicuously. girls I functi 25. especially those of Sylvia S. Silverman, Mary S. nyan, and this author's previous work. From these data, a pre-test questionnaire was developed in order to test the formulated hypotheses and the many other facets of the problem area .1 The schedule was administered to approximfiely 200 tenth and twelfth grade boys and girls in the Flint school system. The concern in this pre-test was primarily technical in that the information sought was centered around the determination of: (l) the maximum length of time needed for the completion of the questionnaire, (2) the response distributions for specific items, (3) whether any of the items, as a whole, lacked meaning, (it) the adolescents' specific response to certain words, and (S) the over-all reaction to the instrument itself. In order to obtain this information, during the administration of the pre-test schedule, the students were requested to ask questions if any item, or part of an item, was unclear. Further, upon completion of the question- naire by each class, several students were interviewed individually. Accordingly, as a result of the pre—test, several of the items were re- vised, the wording of others was altered, and finally, many of the items were rearranged as they appeared in the schedule. In order to avoid potential bias in attitudes toward the question- naire itself, or its specific content, which might have been transferred by Classroom teachers and students, several precautionary steps were taken. First, all classes in the selected sample of a specific school were given the questionnaire at precisely the same time and secondly, no staff member of any of the schools was involved in its administration. —‘ S lActually, the pre-test schedule represented the third draft. actions of the other drafts were pre—tested and revised accordingly. 26. Reliability. Reliability of a questionnaire depends on the extent to which repeated administrations of the instrument would result in the same response data. In short, reliability in this sense is a problem of stability .1 Since the proposed hypotheses are to be tested for the entire group, the concern is with the reliability of the instrument on a group basis. Therefore, for the purposes of this study, reliability of the questionnaire would depend on the extent to which its repeated ad- ministrations to similar groups of adolescents would result in the same response data. Individual variations in responses might occur, but it is assumed that these variations would be obviated by the performance of the whole group and thus would not effect the testing of hypotheses. Many of the items used in the final questionnaire were employed in other 2 studies with good results. Further, the kinds of responses obtained from the pre-test questionnaire were very comparable to those of the final instrument, even though a number of items were slightly altered in wording and others rearranged as they appeared in the schedule. Validity. A logical approach to the problem of validity results in the definition that "a measurement procedure is valid to the degree that it measures what it purports to measure."3 This approach has often . 1W. J. Goods and P. K. Hatt, Methods i2 Social Research, (New Eric: McCraw-Hill Series in Sociology aifl Anthropology, I932), pp. 152- 2These studies include: (1) W. B. Brookover, W. H. Form, D. L. Gibson, et. a1., Youth and the World of Work, (East Lansing: S°°1§1 Research-Service, Echiga'n—S'tate Coll-age, Septenber 191:9); (2) N- 8. Brookover, D. G. Epley, and G. P. Stone, Dygamics pf Prejudice @223 Maple County Youth, (East Lansing: Social Research Service, Michigan tate 0 ege, I933), a mimeographed report; (3) Sylvia Silverman, pp. 3352.; and (’4) Mary S. Ryan, 22. £332. 1 8 3Marie Jahoda, Morton Deutsch, and Stuart W, Cook, Research Methods .33 iii-EA Relations (New York: The Dryden Press, 1951), p.-I5§T—_ 27. led to the attempt to distinguish between attitudes expressed in re- sponding to questionnaires and actual behavior. However, this has proven to be a basically false issue.l Verbal response is actually a kind of overt behavior and does represent certain aspects of social reality. Another method of determining the validity of an instrument - whether or not it measures what it purports to measure - is that of ascertaining the truthfulness of the respondents' answers to questions. This method, for sociologists, can also lead to indecision for it imme- diately raises the problem of the degree of truthfulness desired. Is the expressed sentiment of a respondent 23.131 what he actually believes, or is he attempting to conceal something of even more significance? If this approach is followed, the sociologist may find himself employing techniques of psychology, such as Thematic Apperception Tests or clinical depth interviews, which he is not qualified to use. Even if this were not the case, the difficulty still would not be solved, for he would eventually be confronted with the philosophical problem of the meaning of "truth" and the necessity of deriving criteria of absolute truth, which in turn would take him outside the realm of science. It is the author's belief that for all science, validity can be determined only through reliability. In short, the findings of a study are valid only to the extent that the procedures employed in the study can be rePeated and comparable conclusions result. This will be the interpretation of validity used for the purposes of this dissertation. F 1 Geode and Hatt, pp. 332., pp. 161-166. 28. In the pre-testing of the schedule, as reported above, a number of students were interviewed to determine whether or not the interpreta- tion of questions by the respondents was the same as that which was in- tended by the researchers. Those items which did not meet this Specifi- cation were either altered or completely omitted from the final instru- ment. And in respect to the retained items, it was mentioned that responses obtained from the pre-test questionnaire were very similar to those of the final instrument. The Sample The final instrument was administered to 782 twelfth, tenth, and eighth grade boys and girls in the Lansing school system. The inclusion of eighth graders was a last minute. decision. It was thought that their inclusion would help in the exploration of some of the age-developmental aspects of the study. At first, it was felt that this might have caused difficulty in the comprehension of some of the items on the part of the eighth graders, since the instrument was developed for, and pro-tested on, older adolescents. However, this factor was found to be of little importance after intensive analysis of the data was completed. Although there was a tendency for eighth graders to more frequently omit items, or not be able to complete the questionnaire in the allotted time of f 01'W-five minutes, this did not occur in many cases and was of no statistical significance. For the purposes of this investigation, an over-all representation of the student. population was not necessary, for the aim was to obtain an adequate number of representatives of certain groups in order that statistical comparison might be made. Specifically, in the selection 29. of the sample, the goal was to obtain adequate representation by grade and sex. Table I, below, demonstrates the distribution of the sample population by these two groups . TABLE I DISTRIBUTION OF THE SAMPLE POPULATION BY GRADE AND SEX Sex Grade Boys Girls Totals 12th 105 120 225 10th It? M9 296 8th 138 123 261 Totals 390 392 732 Another important factor which guided the selection of the sample was the attempt to minimize upper social class bias in the higher grades, b“malilse of the greater number of "drop-outs" of children in the lower C1338 strata. It is believed that this goal was fairly well achieved, since the occupational status of an adolescent's father, the prime index or Social class status employed in this dissertation, demonstrated only a very low degree of relationship with grade in school.1 \ Altho lSee Appendix B , Table LXXII, for a summary of this relationship. (C _ ugh the degree of the relationship was very low for all students iatio ' ), the variables did demonstrate a moderately significant assoc- and fa ( P =- .05). For a discussion of the variable |‘occupational status", Signigr an explanation of the symbol ”C" and the criterion of statistical icance, see section on "Statistical Techniques" in this chapter. 30. Furthermore, no conscious attempt was made to bias the selected sample in any way. Rather, certain steps were taken in order to avoid such an occurrence. All but one of the schools in the Lansing system1 were sampled . The questionnaire was administered to selected Home Room sections. Since it was determined that the prime criterion for assign- ing students to Home Room sections was that of alphabetical order, sections [were selected in each school which contained students whose surnames fell within the entire alphabetical range. Since it is logical to expect that if officials of each school were to choose those sections which were to be included in the sample, they would tend to select those which would be most "cooperative" in order that an outsider might not As a result, receive an unfavorable impression of his particular school. all decisions as to which Home Room sections were to be included in the sample were made by the writer, himself. MblSUREM'zNT OF VARIABLIE In order to test empirically the proposed hypotheses, specific Operational techniques were employed to measure the variables involved in these hypotheses. The following paragraphs contain a discussion of the Specific techniques used which require some elaboration and explan- ation . l i t This one school which was not sampled was recently amalgamated 131.0 the.La.nsing School system and contained a very large percentage of al'f r lllge individuals who, it was felt, were not typically representa- + vive of the Lansing adolescent population. 31. Scale Construction: Clothing Awareness, Social Confidence, and Other- Directedness. Since a prime focus of this dissertation is the explanation of differences in the degree of clothing awareness among adolescents, it was necessary to arrange the available data in some meaningful manner. A number of alternative categorization techniques were possible, i.e., a qualitative typology, subjective ratings of responses by a group of qualified judges, or some scaling device. Since the interest is in a single attitude dimension - clothing awareness - the most desirable categorization could be accomplished through the use of some objective scaling technique. Recently, it has been demonstrated that data of a similar nature were amenable by treatment to a known scaling method - The Cornell Technique for Scalogram Analysis. In the final analysis of the data, employing Scalogram Analysis, a scale was developed for this variable of clothing awareness. In addition, an independent variable, SOCial confidence, also proved to be scalable when this technique was employed. However, when Scalogram Analysis was applied to still another area , other-directedness, it was found that no single scale could be Cle‘Veloped which included the responses of all the students. Test for scalabilLty. Four main criteria are used to determine scalability in Scalogram Analysis: (1) the coefficient of reproducibility, \_ 13cc Vener, o . cit., PP. 16-29. This technique was developed by {Ouis Guttman in "The c‘o'r'h’ell Technique for Scale and Intensity Analysis", :‘tiucational and PsychOIOgical Measurement, x11 (1914?), 2147-279. All itatements of—Tact made concerning this technique were abstracted from Scs text, unless otherwise noted. For an excellent introduction to ale Analysis see Louis Uuttman, “A Basis for Scaling Qualitative Data", % Sociological Review, Ix (192m), 139-150, 32. (2) the number of items and response categories, (3) the range of marginal frequencies, and (h) the pattern of error}, (1) Coefficient _o_f_ reproducibility. In 19ml, Guttman set the lower acceptable ideal limit for this coefficient at 85 per cent,2 and more recently at “M 90 per cent".3 Clothing awareness had a re- producibility of 90.0 per cent, while social confidence had a reproduci- bility of 90.3 per cent. It is therefore feasible to accept these scales as included within the limits of acceptability determined by the criterion of reproducibility. (2) W 9}: items and response categorie . Guttman states that if items are dichotomized, at least ten items should be used, and indicates that a lesser number may be satisfactory if the marginal fre- quencies of several items are in the range of 30 to 70 per cent. Both final constructs contain only four items .h Three of the items in the scale of clothing awareness have marginal frequencies well within the 30 to 70 per cent range, while one item has a frequency of 87 and 13 per cent . In the case of social confidence, only two items demonstrate a marginal frequency within the 30 to 70 per cent range. The others have a frequency of 21 and 89 per cent, and 81 and 19 per cent. These two scales, therefore, do not quite meet the specifications of this criterion. __.___ lSamuel A. Stouffer et al., Measurement and Prediction, Vol. IV of Studies in Social Ps cholo -i'fi-World War II, eat—Frederick Osborn _e_t_ 31., E “’5. (Einceton: éFinceton University Press, 19149-50), pp. 78—80, 117-119 , So 2Louis Guttman, "A Basis for Scaling Qualitative Data", American kci‘flogical RevieW, I): (19141:), p. lho. 3iductiittions and underlining are the author's. See below for a listing of the items which comprise both scales. 33. However, it must be Kept in mind that items with extreme frequencies are needed in order to obtain differential scale types. It should be noted further, that it was necessary to drop several items out of each of the scales because they possessed marginal frequencies which were identical with others in the scale giving them the same discriminatory powers. (3) Rye 2f marginal frequencies. Reproducibility may be spuriously high if the items have extreme frequencies. The marginal frequencies of the items of both scales are discussed under the second criterion, the number of items and response categories. It can be seen from this discussion that this specific criterion, the avoidance of extreme frequencies, has been satisfied. Further, in reference to this criterion, Guttman states that the reproducibility of an item should never be less than the largest frequency of its categories, regardless 01‘ Whether the area is scalable or not. All of the items of both scales fall well within the limits of this particular specification. ()4) Pattern 2;: m. The pattern of error should be inspected to see whether or not there are a large number of non-scale types of persons . Since errors should be randomly distributed, non-scale types can be recognized by solid segments (five or more) in one column which fall outside the cutting points .1 No items of the clothing awareness scale or of the social confidence scale have such clusterings. As a rule, no category should have more errors in it than non-errors. The eight items 01' both scales also meet this requirement. _C_0_nc1usion. As indicated above, three of the criteria of scalability in Scalogram Analysis were fairly well met in the case of ‘— 1”S1.‘.011..1':‘1‘."er, gt _a_l_., 22. 223., Pp. 159-163. 3h. both the clothing awareness and social confidence scales. However, a fairly serious weakness exists in terms of a fourth criterion in that each construct contains only four items. This, and the fact that a large number of items, originally intended to be part of the scales, had to be . . . 1 . . rejected because of their lack of scalability, makes it difficult to suggest that clothing awareness and social confidence represent two broad unidimensional universes in American social life. In fact, due to the extreme complexities of these variables, it would have been possible to arrive at this same conclusion from a mere superficial knowledge of American culture. Nevertheless, this does not prevent a judgment about the unidimensionality of the five scale items alone. In this respect, Festinger, after establishing the futility of insisting on unidimensional universes in the social sciences, except for the most simple variables, states that: Scale analysis still provides the investigator with a good technique for scale construction and a means for determining quantitatively the extent to which his data depart from the ideal of unidiemsnionality. Such knowledge should help the investigator considerably in inter- preting his data. In consideration of the above discussion, therefore, it is feasible to assume, for the purposes of this dissertation, that there is only one dominant variable involved in each of the scales. b lOPiginally, twelve items of the questionnaire were intended for 22th scales . For clothing awareness those items were lg, 21, 22, .25, We; 33., 3’4, 112, 1:5, he, 51, 52; and for social confidence those items Th 8.9’ 8’ 30’ 33, 36, 38, ho, M, ’46, ‘47, '49, 2. See Appendlx A. e 1 ems Which were finally included-in the scales are underlined. 2 Anal Leon Festinger, “The Treatment of Qualitative Data by Scale ysis," £§ycholpg3cal Bulletin, XLIV (191:7), P. 159. 35. Scale items. Since the items of the developed scales appear in different parts of the questionnaire, it would be difficult.for the reader to get an over-all view of the type of items each scale is com- posed of. Therefore, the items of each scale will be listed below, (Thu? questionnaire number will precede each item. (a) Clothing Awareness: (13) ?»n nucn toought and attention do you thin: someonv your age should give to 5‘ O ..-].‘I. bit). ‘q (2h) u» ,.. ever want to Know whether other peo‘.o .ike or dislike your clothes? (29) I d 'r enjoy wearing my clothes unless nq'tdwlwris like them. (3L) 3cm ~ften do you pay attention to the ClOtnti you wear? (b) Social (infidence (23) I dislixe going to parties and other affairs where there are lots of people I don't Know. (38) I am more self conscious than most people. (L6) It bothers me when peOple talk about me behind my back. (53) I like to get up and talk before the class. EZEJler-directedness. It was mentioned above, that when Scalogram Analysis vwas applied to the area of otherbdirectedness, it was found that no Sioiqlc scale could be developed which included the responses of all StUdEfljtig. Rather, it was found that a separate scale could be develovei for (1) 12th, 10th and 8th grade girls, (2) 12th grade boys, 36. (3) 10th grade boys, and (1;) 8th grade boys.l If all four of these scales were used in the study, a comparison of individuals in the dif- ferent scales would have been impossible. Furthermore, the employment of all of these sub-scales would have led to extreme complexity in statistical analysis and presentation. As a result, it was decided that a more simple construct, such as an index, would be more useful as an aid in the analysis of the data. 2 Three items were involved in the four final scales. However, when all three items were used in an attempt to develop a single construct which would include all students, no scale could be developed that met the criteria of scalability discussed above. Specifically, the coef- ficient. of reproducibility was too low for acceptibility and, even more important, too many non-scale types were in evidence. On the other hand, it was felt that these three items, dichotomized, would make an adequate index of other-directedness. The items involved were: (39) I can do things better by working with other people. (Ll) Before I make up my mind to do something I try to find out what other peOple think about it. (50) It is very important that I Know what other people think of me. __ _ lOriginally, five items (26, 31, 39, Ll, 50) were to be employed 1n thedevelopment of a scale for all students. However, only three di- ghotomized items (39, hl, 50) were finally included in a scale developed dir all glrls; for 12th grade boys, one trichotomized item (39) and one _°h0tomized item (1.1) were included; for 10th grade boys one trichoto- mixed item (50) and one dichotomized item (39) Were included, for 8th gradeboys One trichotomized item (39) and one dichotomized iten (141) were included . 2These were items 39, hl, and 50. See paragraph below. 37. All of these questions were of the categorized, five point scale type of "strongly agree", "agree", "uncertain", "disagree", and "strongly disagree“ . All three items were dichotomized, giving a weight of O to the responses of "uncertain", "disagree", and "strongly disagree". An individual's other-directedness score was obtained by totaling the weights he received in responding to the three items. A score of "3" represents very high other-directedness and a score of "0" represents very low other-directedness. Social Class Status, Aspirations, and Organizational Activity. Since many students of stratification hold that occupational status is a major, if not the prime element in social class status, this variable will be employed in this dissertation as an indicator of social Class Status. The relative importance of occupational position in the general Stratification of American society has been expressed by Anderson and Davidson rather vividly: The occupation one follows fills most of one's waking time. It assigns the individual a particular place in society, which can be changed only by most ex~ ceptional circumstances. It has much to do with determining the location and Kind of residence of the family, and thereby the schooling, playmates, social contacts, and leisure-time activities of its various members. . . .it forms the range of his conversation and intellectual interest, fastens upon him habits of dress and conduct, and defines the circle of his friends and acquaintances, who in turn have a powerful effect on his thoughts and actions. Stru l D . Anderson and P. B. Davidson, Ballots and the Democratic Class W (Palo Alto: Stanford University—Press, 19143 Tp. 82. For others 0 ss silt out the significance of occupation as a major element in social Yorko H 313118 see D. C. Miller and "N. H. Form, Industrial Sociolo (New ' a1" Per and Brothers, 1951), Talcott Parsons, "Kn in ma Approach to ogythglgheory of Sociological Stratification," American Journal of 300121-- Social 3’ N0. 6 (May, 1910), pp. 8151-862, Paul K: Hatt, 1rUccupation and May 19;: fittification," American Journal of Sociology, LV, No. 6 2 38. There exists in sociology a number of different techniques for measuring occupational status, such as the North-iatt occupational 2 and Warner's oc- categories ,1 Alba hidwards' social-economic groups, cupational prestige ratings .3 Kahl and Davis, in a recently completed study, compared nineteen stratification indexes and found that these factors were related because all basically measured the same underlying dimension - that of occupational prestige."t Furthermore, the authors found that Warner's occupational categories demonstrated the highest degree of association with the other nineteen indexes of socio—economic status examined. In light of these findings, Warner's seven-point oc- cupational status index will be employed in this study in rating the occupational status of an adolescent's father (Item 7b, 7c of question- naire)? which in turn will be used as an index of the adolescent's social class status . 10. c. North and P. H. Hatt, "Jobs and Occupations: A Popular Evaluation," in R. Bendix and S. M. Lipset, (eds.) Class, Status, and Power (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1953) pp. 1:11-1:25. . 2Alba M. Edwards, Alphabetical Index of Occupations (Washington: United States Government r’rinting ' ice, 1937). 3‘3, Lloyd Warner, Xvi. Meeker, and K. Eells, Social Class in Merica (Chicago: Science Research Associates, Inc., 19119). Warner's sca e of prestige ratings is but one of four characteristics of his Index of Status Characteristics employed to measure social class position. The other three characteristics are source of income, house type, and dwelling area. It is interesting to note that of the four characteristics, the greatest weight is given to occupation in the computation of the Index. , _hJ- A. Kahl and J. A, Davis, "A Comparison of Indexes of Socio- economic Status," American Sociological hevigw, XX, No. 3 (June, 1955), PP- 317-325 . Sup-ather" in this dissertation is used as a generic term to in- clude father surrogates, since approximately 13 per cent of the adoles- cents 1n the sample were supported mainly by individuals who were not either their fathers or stepfathers. 39. Three different measures of aspirations will be used. The first, "desirability of father's occupation" (Item 7d of questionnaire), is an over—all measure of the general attractiveness of the father's occupation to the adolescent. The second, "occupational expectations" (Item 9 of the questionnaire), is a measure of the occupational goals of the adolescent. The prime purpose here is to obtain an individual's actual occupational expectations, rather than a measure of his fantasy occupa- tional desires. Therefore the adolescent was asked what he would most like to do as a life's work and then was asked to indicate what he thought his chances were of actually achieving this occupational position. If the adolescent stated that his chances were only "fair" or "poor” and indicated what he really expected to do, this latter indication was con- sidered to be his actual job expectations. Warner's seven-point oc- C‘lpatii-<3rial status index will also be used in rating these occupational expectations of the adolescents. The third aspirational measure, "educational expectations" (Item 8 of the questionnaire), is an estima- ti‘m of the total amount of education the adolescent eXpects to receive. An index was developed to obtain some measure of an individual's gener '31 organizational activity, both in school and in the community. This index consists of an estimation of the total number of organizations the adolescent is a member of and whether or not he holds some official p OSitiOn in any of the organizations. In the construction of the organ— izat‘iOnal activity index, an adolescent was rated "very high" in organi- zational activity if he was a member of three or more organizations and held s<>me officership; "high" if he was a member of two or more organi- zations and held some officership; "medium" if he was a member in one or mor e organizations and held some officership, or was a member of three 1:0. or more organizations and held no officership; "low" if he was a member of one or more organizations and held no officership; "very low" if he was a member of no organizations and held no officership. Clothing Deprivation. The term "deprivation" has been defined as the "failure to get something which is wanted."1 However, this rather simple definition of the concept needs further qualification, considering its differential usage in the literature of social science. Two broad approaches to the concept can be discerned. One approach concentrates on the psychological consequences of severe biogenic need deprivation, 6.3., starvation, thirst, sleep, and sex.2 The other approach is centered around the symbolic value of the object desired which arises in a social context and does not usually involve a threat to the very existence of the in- dividual .3 This latter approach to the concept is of greater interest to the sociologist and will be employed in this study. Stouffer, et al., “Sing this second approach, further qualify the term when they employ the concept of "relative deprivation" in order to explain what otherwise lTheodore ul. Newcomb, Social Psychology (New York: The Dryden Press, 1950) p. 358. For an example of such an approach see liuzafer Sherif, An Outline o‘f. Social Psych-slog (New York: Harper and Brothers, 19173) pp. ‘90. Newcomb, o . cit., p. 358, uses the term "anxiety" for this type 01: biOgenic need epmation, and A. H. Maslow, "Deprivation, Threat, :EdSFrustration," in Theodore a. Newcomb and Eugene L. Hartley, Readi s 78 ”ial Psychology (New York: Henry Holt and Company, 191:?) PP. 551:- ’ r ers to this as constituting a "threat to the personality". 3 NeWcomb, gp. cit., p. 358, calls this "simple deprivation” and 2,2. cit., p. 2'85, refers to this as "deprivation." Mas low , I‘ll ‘. l l 1"" t1. Would be disparate empirical findings.1 The authors offer no formal definition of the term, but claim that it is closely related to such soci010gical concepts as "social frame of reference", "patterns of ex- pectation", or "definitions of the situation". However, the authors do offer several instances of its use as an analytical interpretive device which fairly well establishes its meaning .2 For example, they state: Becoming a soldier meant to many men a very real deprivation. But the felt sacrif ice was greater for some than for others, depending on their standards of comparison. . . . Comparing himself (the drafted married man) with his unmarried associates in the Army, he could feel that induc- tion demanded greater sacrifice from him than from them; and comparing himself with his married civilian friends he could feel that he had been called on fgr sacrifices which they were escaping altogether. It is evident from this quotation that the important element in relative dePrivation is the standard of comparison or referent the individual emPJ-Oys when he judges himself on some given basis. Considering the above discussion, it is suggested that the adolescent who feels he is dressed rather poorly when he compares himself t0 Others is expressing a sentiment of relative clothing deprivation. I . . , . . . 11 Order to measure relative clothing deprivation the following \ Durin }Sa:nuel 31. Stouffer, et al., 323 American SoldieraAdjustment h3- Arm y Life, Vol. I of Studies in Socia Psychology _i_r-1 nor 135 _I__I_, Pres 1"ederick Csborn, et al., 1: vols. (Princeton: Princeton University 8, ism-So) p. 52. ' which 2Merton and Kitt, 3p. cit. , p. 143-141;, summarize nine instances in by St relative deprivation (or—differential deprivation) were employed sec tioliffer and his co-authors. It has already been noted in Chapter I, relat?n on "Problems, Variables and Hypotheses", that lierton and Kitt see 1V8 deprivation as a special concept in reference group theory. BStouffer, £331., 32. £13,, Vol. I, p. 121. 1:2. question (Item 35 of Questionnaire) was used: Compared to others of your age, how well do you usually feel you are dressed? mtremely well Better than average student About average Below average The phrase "others of your age" was included in the question in order to Standardize the group referent employed by the respondents. In the analysis of the data, if a respondent indicated that he usually dressed "extremely well" or "better than average student", this will be con- sidered an expression of sentiments of low deprivation. Twenty-eight Percent of the respondents fell into this category. Since only one Percent of the students stated that they usually felt they were dressed "below average" and as many as 69 percent felt-that they usually were dressed “about average", it was necessary to combine these reSponses for the purposes of statistical analysis. Operationally, therefore, this con-apsed category will be considered an expression of sentiments of relatively high clothing deprivation. In addition to the numerical distribution of responses, there exists still another dimension of this r ationale for operationally considering an "about average" response as an expl‘ession of sentiments of high clothing deprivation. In interviews With adolescents selected from the pre-test group, there was a tendency for 1i'hose adolescents who responded in this manner to GXPI'GSS depriva- tional sentiments when further probed. There seems to have been a general reluctance - normative in character - to acknOWledge these dep- rivaLt'iOI‘u-ELI sentiments in the testing and interviewing situations. In thi ' S reSpect, it is of interest to note that a selection of €1th9r 143. "extremely well" or "below average” represents a very extreme response, since only five percent of the students fell into the former category, and as few as one percent fell into the latter category.1 STATIST ICAL T EB :{I‘JIQ LIES A prime aim of this dissertation is focalized around the goal of empirical acceptance or rejection of specific hypothesized relationships between variables. Specifically, some technique must be employed to determine whether or not an observed relationship between two variables could conceivably have occurred through chance factors alone. Put in statistical terms, it must be determined if an assumed chance hypothesis, i.e ., that the observed frequencies of a contingency table would be distributed uniformly in the various categories, could be rejected. There exists in the broad area of statistical method several possible teChili-Clues which can be employed to test statistical significance. HO“ever, the choice of any one of these techniques is primarily deter- mined by the very nature of the variables in question. Since a 800d percentage of the variables treated in this study are continuous, but contain units of unequal size, or completely non-continuous, an accepted test of significance is that of chi-square. ~When dealing with the few quantitative, continuous variable, it would be feasible to employ l'Ifiro percent of the total sample of 782 students did not respond to this item. 2This discussion was suggested by Allen L. Edwards, Statistica_l m f. or Students in Ps cholo and Education (New York: Rinehart and Ompany, Inc ., EBB), especially pp. 239-?52. hh. another test of significance such as Student‘s "t";1 However, in order to avoid mmeccssary complexities in the analysis of the data, it was thought that a single technique might be used more advantageously . The chi-square technique, therefore, will be employed in this dissertation as the test of significance between all variables. Likewise, a single measure of the degree of association will be used, namely, the coef- ficient of contingency (C). The methods employed in the computation of the chi-square and the coefficient of contingency will follow the pro- cedure presented by Allen L. Edwards? In addition, all coefficients of contingency have been corrected for broad categories (symbolically deSignated "5") according to the method suggested by Peters and Van Voorhis .3 This correction factor is necessary because a coefficient of contingency tends to underestimate the degree of association present in inverse proportion to the number of cells in the table. This method of Peters and Van Voorhis corrects the coefficient of contingency only to some el’xtent, and therefore, a comparison of corrected coefficients of cont’3'-1’lrfa'el’1<:ies (5) for tables which contain a different number of categories must be made with extreme caution. The contingency coefficient varies between 0 and l, but computa- tion results do not indicate the direction of the association. Rather, direction must be determined by examination of the contingency table \ (New Y 1Margaret J. Hagood and Price, Statistics for Sociolo ists ark; Henry Holt and Company, Revised, 1952) pp. 35-53%, 532-1433. 2 Edwards, 22. 933., pp. 239-253. 3 Maths Eaters and Van Voorhis, Statistical Procedures and Their pp gangs-l Bases (New York: McGraw-Hill Boo} Companyflficu I9h0) ts. from which the coefficient was computed. In order to simplify data presentation, when an examination of the relationship shows a clear directional pattern, a positive (+) or a negative (-) value will be assigned to the coefficient of contingency, although it is realized that a sign value for this statistic does not have quite the same meaning as that of the product-moment ”r", for example. In cases where the directional pattern of the association is not clear, or when dealing With completely discrete variables, such as sex, it will be so noted and qualified within the text of the dissertation. For the purposes of this study, a probability of .05 or less is accepterl £18 indicating a significant relationship or one that is not likely to occur by chance. The corrected coefficient of contingency (5) Will be indicated only if the variables under consideration meet this criterdxori of statistical significance. Ekcept where noted otherwise, the'f0151cnfiing procedure will be used for showing probability values and their Concomitant qualifying adjectives in tables or in exposition: (1) When probability is greater than .05 . . . "not significant". . . . . . . . . . . . . . NS (2) When probability is .05 or less but greater than .01 . . . "moderately significant". . . P .05 (3) When probability is .01 or less but greater than .001. . '. "highly significant". . . . . P .01 (h) When probability is .001 or less . . . . . "extremely significant". . . . . . . . . . . P .001 Used b lThe last three of these qualifying adjectives were originally y George W. Snedecor, Statistical Methods: applied to Experiments in ' .— ELM and Biology (limes, Iowa State manage—Press, 11th 9.5., ' epro um 1n argaret J. Hagood, Statistics for Sociologists N O ’ ( ew York. Henry Holt and Company, 1952), p. 325- 1:6. Finally, since in an initial analysis of the data boys and girls demonstrated different quantitative response distributions in a number of instances, it was felt that a better understanding of the associations between variables could be obtained if the sexes were considered separately. Therefore, in the final analysis of the data, the associ- ation of any two variables will be examined in three ways: for all students, for boys alone, and for girls alone. CHAPTER III CORRELATES 0F CLOTdING AWARENESS AND CLOTHING DEPRIVATION: THE Hil’OTn’tSrB TEETH) The prime focus of this dissertation is on an explanation of differences in two adolescent clothing orientations - clothing awareness and clothing deprivation. In order to do this, a series of specific hypotheses was developed concerning the relationship of these two de- pendent variables and certain sociological and social-psychological variables.1 These hypothesized relationships will be tested in this .chapter. For the purposes of simplifying exposition and analysis, the hypotheses concerning clothing awareness and clothing deprivation will be considered separately. Clothing Awareness and Independent Variables Sex and Age-Grade The association of clothing awareness with differences in sex and age—grade status is contained in Tables XI through XIV, Appendix A. ‘It can be seen from Table II, below, which summarizes these associations, that an extremely significant relationship (P .001) exists between clothing awareness and differences in sex. Also, the variables show a considerable degree of association (C .hZ), with girls being more aware of clothing than boys. Considering this finding, the hypothesis that 1See Chapter I for a statement of these hypotheses. 148. TABLE II enemy or ASSOCIATIONS or CLOTHING MAHENESS WITH DIFFERENCES IN sax AND AGE—GRADE STATUS W Clothing Awareness Independent Variables Coefficient Probability of Direction Contingency (5) Sex All students .001 .h2 Girls high Age-grade All students NS _- .._ Boys alone NS -—- _.- Girls alone NS —_- .._ v_.__—‘—"—’ —— clothing awareness will be related to differences in sex, with girls demonstrating the greatest degree of clothing awareness, can be ac- cepted. However, the hypothesis that clothing awareness and age-grade would be related cannot be substantiated, since the variables show no significant association (NS), even when sex, which is a factor related to clothing awareness, is held constant. Furthermore, no definite directional trend is ascertainable from an intensive examination of the data. Apparently, for the group studied, age-grade status is not an element in differential clothing awareness. This finding is of some interest in respect to obtaining further understanding of the processes of socialization. Since no group differences were observed among 8th, 10th, and 12th grade students, it can be assumed that by early adolescence the individual is already made conscious of the symbolic importance of clothing in inter-personal relationships. If a valid instrument which measured clothing aware— 1‘9. uses could be developed to include individuals of younger, pre- adolescent, age-grade status, it would be fruitful to learn at what point differential clothing awareness is observed on a group basis. It is suggested that the age-grade which represents a real increase in clothing awareness will also represent a stage where a qualitatively different level of role-taking ability has been reached. Social Class 322 Related Variables The relationships of clothing awareness with occupational status of father, organizational activity, subjective identification with social class, desirability of father's occupation, occupational expecta- tions, and educational expectations are analyzed in Tables XV through XXIII, Appendix A. It is evident from Table III, below, which summarizes the results of this analysis, that with the possible exception of or- ganizational activity for girls alone, none of the hypothesized relation- ships has been substantiated. It is realized that small differences which are consistently in the same direction may be as important as one large difference that is statistically significant.1 However, no consistent directional pattern or trend can be Observed from an intensive examination of theedata. Half of these independent variables - occupational status of father, organizational activity, and educational expectations - show a positive associational trend with clothing awareness, while the other half - social class identification, desirability of father's occupation, and occupational expectations - demonstrate no 13cc Charles C. Peters, "Note on a Misconception of Statistical Significance," American Journal XXXIX (J , 1933 - of Sociolo , May, 193h) p. 23I-235 and F Stuart CfiEpIn; Ex eriment Designs 33 Sociologic Research (New York: Harper and r , 50. TABLE III SUIMRY 0F ASSWIATIDNS BETWEEN CLOTHING AWARENESS AND SIEIAL CLASS VARIABLrB W W Clothing Awareness Social Class Coefficient Variables Probability of _ Direct ion Contingency (C) Occupational status of father All students NS ._.. ..... Boys alone NS —.... ...- Girls alone NS «- .._... Organizational activity All students .05 .21 positive Boys alone NS --- --- Girls alone .05 .27 positive 3035-81 class identifica- tion All students NS --- --- Boys alone NS --- --- Girls alone NS --- ---- Desirability of father's occupation All students NS "“ '""' Boys alone N3 ""“' "" Girls alone NS "“ "" Occupational expectations All students NS --- -—- Boys alone N3 "" ...... Girls alone NS “- """ Educational expectations All students N5 "" Boys alone NS --- -“ Girls alone N5 "" Sl. clear-cut directional patterns. Furthermore, it is of interest to note that five of these independent variables, organizational activity, social class identification, educational expectations, desirability of father's occupation, and occupational expectations, show an extremely significant association with occupational status of father, the indicator of social class status .1 For analytical purposes, these five variables can be considered as comprising different dimensions of social class 2 status . The fact that occupational status of father and these five related variables, with the partial exception of organizational activity, were not significantly associated with clothing awareness and no con- Sistent directional trends were ascertainable, further reinforces the conclusion that social class status is not a factor involved in the differential clothing awareness of adolescent boys and girls in the community studied. Other studies have shown that social class status and its correlates were involved in the differential estimations of clothing importance and clothing interest of adult males and females .3 P lFor all students, organizational activity demonstrated a B .32 ( '001) with occupational status of father; social class identif cation a “1‘9 (P .001) with occupational status of father; educational ex— ?CPations a 5 .38 (P .001) with occupational status of father; desira- oilyh'y of father's occupation a U J49 (P .001) with occupational status ti ather; and occupational expectations a C .h2 (P .001) with occupa- onal Status of father. See Table LXXII, Appendix A. 2 GXist In addition to the findings of this study, footnoted above, there corrots) in the literature of social science much evidence which further his coii‘ates this assumption. I refer speCifically to Warner and some of 8001811 eagues, who have shown the influence of social status on the invest-zatI‘OH of the child. 'For a good annotated bibliography of these Chi lgé‘tlons see W. Lloyd Warner, American Life: Dream and healig “go: The University of Chicago Press, I935}. See the reviewed studies of Rosencranz and Vener in Chapter I. 52. Since it was felt that these two clothing orientations were quite similar to that of clothing awareness, it was expected that the off- spring of the adults from different social strata, through the social- ization process, would also demonstrate differential clothing awareness. However, as can be seen from the above discussion, this was not the case. For purposes of analytical speculation, the involvement of an intervening variable (or variables) shall be imputed, namely, that of American youth culture. It is suggested that participation in youth culture may obviate some of the influence of family social class status on clot hing awareness. Several possible explanations for this phenomenon Will be offered below. However, certain aspects of the concept "youth culture" should be considered‘first. Recently, the validity of this concept of youth culture has been questioned by Elkin and flestley in their article, "The Myth of Adolescent Culture ."1 These authors particularly object to the characterization of youth culture in sociOIOgical literature as a period of storm and stress With its affirmation of independence, its compulsive conformity to peer group Patterns, its rejection of adult standards of judgment, its romanticism, and its "irresponsible" pleasurable activities. In refuta- tion or this conceptualization, the authors cite the results of their Stud} 01‘ forty fourteen and fifteen year old middle class adolescents living in a suburban community of Montreal, Canada, in addition to a discussion of similar findings of other studies. These findings are s - , . ummar129d in the follow1ng excerpt: \ CUlture '.1'"ederick Elkin and fiilliam A. Westley, l'The Myth of Adolescent pp. 68%8‘fifilerlcan Sociological Review, Vol. 20, No. 6 (December, 1955) 53. Such a theory [youth culture] neither explains the correlation between adolescent class position, choice of school courses, and subsequent oc- cupational goals; nor the acceptance by adolescents of adult guidance of many of their activities: nor does it make allowance for deferred gratification patterns, the internalization of adult values, solidary family relationships, or positive re- lationships with authority figures; all of w ich are found in studies of middle-class groups. The findings of this study further corroborate those of alkin and Westley, in that social class status is strongly related with other social-psychological factors (discussed above) and thus would seem to disprove the characterization of youth culture as rejecting adult group standards and its prime concern with "irresponsible" pleasurable activities. However, this writer cannot agree with the authors when they conclude: This contradiction between the current sociological characterization of adolescence and the reported data for middle-class groups suggests that "adolescen culture" has a somewhat mythical character. A theoretical construct, such as "youth culture" has not outlived its usefulness as an analytical aid simply because some of its aspects have been demonstrated to be erroneous. Rather, the construct might prove t0 be of even greater usefulness because of its sharpening thr°u€éh empirical qualification. when a mature Merican observer who has not been involved in a Se 0 O condar'y school system Since his adolescence enters such a system, 1 Ibid., p. 681:. 2 l333Lkin and Westley, 32. 333., p. 681:. Sh. when this person observes the various kinds of activities that taxe place in the system, and when he talks at length with a number of the actors of the system, he soon becomes aware of the fact that he has come upon a social-cultural milieu which is somewhat alien to him. This social-cultural configuration in which the individual finds himself is that of the subculture of the American school - the core of American youth culture.1 The aspects of this subculture which seemed alien to the observer are probably those values and meanings which are unique and distinguishable from the more encompassing community culture and which emerged from the continuity of interaction within the school system itself . Although this subcultural configuration may not be described as being concerned primarily with irresponsible activities, as being re- bellious against adult norms, or as being involved, predominantly, in compil181ve conformity, it does demonstrate certain general characteristics Which vary only slightly from community to community. These character- istics include an easily distinguishable pattern of dress and jargon and a distinctive orientation to sports, P01311131" "111313: dancing, movie stars, peers, etc. , to say nothing of the complex of values centered around the School's curriculum and its social activity. I?” FI‘om the foregoing discussion, it is logical to propose that youth clat-Lture may not be oriented toward the symbolic value of clothing in the same manner as that of the broader, community culture. If this be the case, participation in this subculture may obviate some of the \ and . F 01‘ a sociological description of the culture of American schools Educlt's SOCial strucutre, see h‘ilbmr' a. brooxover, g Sociology 93 atlon (New York: American Book Company, 1955) and her es P. Loomis ' “ len Bee le Rural Sociolo ° The Strate' of Chan e (min lewood Cl _ g 9 H1:§Z°_____B___§X__i. g iffs . ”entice-Hall, Inc . , 9 - , Chapter 0 SS. influences that social Clam; status 11‘;ig1':t have had on relative clothing awareness. Moreover, the possibility remains that relative prestige, or social honor within the adolescent social system might be a factor in differential clothing awareness; although :Iollingshead and others have maintained that the social class position of the student's family is a sufficient factor in determining his hierarcnical prestige position within the school strucutre, Gordon, in an analysis of the social organization of a suburban St. Louis high school, taxes exception to this View.2 In his study he found that the correlation of an adoles- cent's status within the school and the status of his family in the broad community context was rather low and concluded that there has been a tendency to impose social class analysis too rigidly upon the social System of the adolescent. For example, personality deviants of high Status family groups were usually assigned low positions within the youth group, Also, other prestige values within the adolescent structure were fairly generally distributed, e.g., athletic prowess might bring to an individual high status within the school group without benefit of the legitimating and mediating influence offamily background. Considering this finding of Gordon, if some general index of an adolescent's relative prestige within the youth group could be developed, it would be of some 1nterest to determine whether this prestige index would show significant re ' . . . lationship With clothing awareness. \ l S A . B. Hollingshead, EJJntown's Youth (New Iork: John Wiley and 0“” Inc ., 19149) p. 9. 2 - - of St 0- 4". Gordon, "The Social Organization of a High School: A Study Univeatlls and hole,", unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, Washington rslty: Saint Louis, Missouri, 1952. 56. Self-Conception Variables The association of clothing awareness with the self-conception variables of social confidence, other-directedness, and clothing deprivation1 are shown in Tables XXXIII through XLI, Appendix A. It is evident from Table IV, below, which summarizes the results of these analyses, that a moderately significant (P .05) relationship exists between clothing awareness and social confidence for all students. However, when boys and girls are considered separately, the variables are not significantly associated (NS) among the boys, but demonstrate moderate significance (P .05) for the girls. The degree of association between the variables among girls is fairly low (E .2h), and the direction of the association is negative, i.e., the greater the social confidence, the less the demonstrated clothing awareness.2 Therefore, the proposed hypothesis that social confidence would be negatively related to clothing awareness can be accepted for girls only. However, the hypothesis that other-directedness and clothing awareness are positively related is supported for both boys and girls. A more rigorous statistical basis exists for its acceptance when only girls are con— sidered, since the association of the variables is only moderately significant for boys alone ( P .05; C .2h),'whereas the association is ' extremely significant (P .OOl;'C .37) for girls alone. l The reader will recall that clothing deprivation is used as both an independent and dependent variable. In this case it is being em- Iflflyed as an independent variable. 2When only boys are examined, the direction of the association between the variables is also negative, even though the association is not statistically significant. 57. TABLE IV SUI‘SVIARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN CLOTHING AWARENESS AND SELF-CONCEPTION VARIABLES Clothing Awareness Self-Conception Variables Coefficient Probability of ._ Direction Contingency (C) Social confidence All students .05 .21 negative Boys alone NS —-— -—- Girls alone .05 .2b negative Other-directedness All students .001 .29 positive Boys alone .05 .2h positive Girls alone .001 .37 positive Clothing deprivation All students .001 .20 negative Boys alone .001 .30 negative Girls alone NS -—— -—- - 1 J The hypothesis that clothing awareness would show a positive relationship with clothing deprivation is not supported by the data. On the other hand, there exists a strong basis, in the case when boys are considered separately, for the conclusion that the variables are negatively related, since for boys alone, the variables demonstrate an extremely significant (P .001) negative relationship and a fair amount of corre- lation (O .30). Although the association of the variables is not significant (NS) when girls are considered separately, the direction of the association is also negative. This finding that individuals with high clothing awareness less frequently feel a high degree of clothing deprivation can be viewed as an adjustive, integrative mechanism.for the 58. individual personality. For example, take the case of a lower class individual who expresses sentiments of high clothing deprivation.and who does not possess the requisite purchasing power to acquire sufficient clothing to ease this feeling of deprivation. The situation would become intolerable if this feeling was intensified by an increasing sensitivity to clothing. Too wide a discrepancy between what one has and what one desires could lead to extreme frustration and possible disorganization of the personality. Rather, it would seem that to those who tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation, clothing becomes an area of decreasing interest, at least on the conscious level. In addition, social systems provide opportunities for substitute gratification and in the socialization process the individual learns to select certain alter- natives from among those available to him which are consistent with his own need-dispositions . Clothing Deprivation and Independent Variables fig and Age-Grade 'Phe relationship of clothing deprivation with differences in sex and age-grade status is analyzed in Tables XLII through XLV, Appendix A. It is evident from Table V, below, which summarizes the results of this analy518, ‘the hypothesis that girls will have a greater tendency to ex- press sentiments of high clothing deprivation cannot be substantiated, Since theServariables show no significant relationship (NS) and no definite directional pattern for the study group. In respect to clothing deprivation and age-grade status, a positive relationship was proposed. H . . . (Never, an extremely significant (P .001) negative association 15 in 59. TABLE V SUMMARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN CLUI‘HING DE'r’hIVATION WITH DIFFERENCES IN SEX AND AGE-GRADE STATUS Clot hing D e privation Independent Variables _ Coefficient Probability of Direction Contingency (0) Sex All students NS --— -—- Age-grade All students .001 .20 negative Boys alone .05 .19 negative Girls alone .05 .22 negative :r‘g . evidence between the variables for all students. when boys and girls are considered separately, there exists a moderately significant (P .05) association. This finding, that older adolescents tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than younger adolescents, tends to reinforce the above statement that the individual learns, over a period of time, to select certain alternative gratification objects from among those made available by the social system which are more compatible with his own need-dispositions. 60. Social Class and Organization Activity Table VI, below, contains a summary of the associations of cloth- ing deprivation with occupational status of father, the indicator of social class status, and organizational activity. The actual analysis of these relationships are contained in Tables XLVI through LI, TABLE. VI 801M117 OF ASSCIIIATIONS BETNEEN CLOTHING DEPHIVATION AND smlAL CLASS VARIABLES Clothing Deprivation Social Class Variables Coefficient Probability of ‘_ Direction Contingency (C) Occupational status of father All students .001 .31 negative Boys alone .001 .32 negative Girls alone .001 .31 negative Organizational activity All students .001 .36 negative Boys alone .001 .32 negative Girls alone .001 .33 negative ——-—— Appendix A“ From an examination of Table VI, it is apparent that a good deal of statistical evidence exists for the acceptance of the proposal that social class status and organizational activity would demonstrate a negative association With clothing deprivation. Both occupational status of father, the indicator of social class status, and organizational activity Show an extremely significant (P .001) negative association With clothing deprivation for all students, and when boys and girls are con- Sidered separately. In addition, the variables demonstrate aIJPFOXimately 61. the same fair degree of association (0 .31 to‘C .36). The reader“will recall that organizational activity was considered to be another dimension of social class status.1 This, coupled with the above finding that organizational activity is significantly related to clothing deprivation, reinforces the finding that differential clothing deprivation is related to social class status. Self-Conception Variables The analysis of the associations of clothing deprivation with the self-conception variables of social confidence and otherhdirectedness is contained in Tables LII through LVII, Appendix A. An examination of Table VII, which summarizes this analysis, indicates that only one of TABLE VII SUMMARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETAEEN CLOTHING DEHHIVATION AND SELF-CONCEPTION VARIABLI‘B Clothing Deprivation Self-Conception Variables . . Probability 0091“? 1018“ Of Direction Contingency (C) Social confidence All students .001 .27 negative Boys alone .01 .28 negative Girls alone .001 .29 negative Other-directedness All students NS -—- -—- Boys alone NS -- —- Girls alone . NS -—- -—- 1See discussion on pp. h9-51. 62. these variables, social confidence, demonstrates a significant relation- . . . . _ . , l . g . .-. . . ship With clothing deprivation. an extremely Signiiicant assoc1ation (P .001) exists between clothing deprivation and social confidence for all students and for girls alone, while the variables 840W a highly significant association (P .01) far to 8 alone. Since thera or'dislike your crxntutd 132. ED How much do you feel you can tell about people from the way they dress? A lot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l A nttle O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 2 Nothing . . . . . ..... . . . . . . . . . . 3 26) To find out if I have done something well I would want to know: Whether it was always done that way . . . . . . 1 What other people think about it. . . . . . . . 2 I wouldn't have to find out. I would know it ~ in my own mind . . . . . . 3 27) A person my age should buy clothes father will like. Strongly disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l Disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Uncertain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Agree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . h Strongly agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 28) I feel I can handle people well. Strongly agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Agree.................. ..2 Uncertain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . h Strongly disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 29) I don't enjoy wearing my clothes unless my friends like them. Strongly disagree . Disagree. . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . . . . . Agree . . . . . . Strongly agree. . O 0 O o O \nt'wml—t 30) When I am with w friends and someone does something wild and ridiculous, I feel embarrassed for him. Strongly agree. . . Agree . . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . . Disagree. . . . . . . . . . Strongly disagree . 000.0 U‘LLT'U’NH C O O 0 O 31) When I am tempted to do something bad, I am most likely to think akxauta how I'll feel about it later. . . . . . . . . what other people will sayu. . . . . . . . . . l . 2 Ithat always happens to people who do bad things 3 32) ‘Whose opinion counts most when you are deciding what to wear? 33) 3b) 35) 36) 37) (Check only one.) Older brother Older sister Younger brother Younger sister Father Mother Fellows younger than I Girls younger than I Fellows about my age Girls about my age 'Whenever I can, I try Strongly agree. . . Agree . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . Disagree. . . .. . Strongly disagree . to make more friends than I already have. 133. Fellows a little older than I Girls a little older than I No one Other persons (Write in who — "my aunt", “my cousin", etc.) How often do you pay attention to the clothes you wear? Almost always . . . Often . . . . . . . Seldom. . . . . . . Never . . . . . . . Compared to others of you.are dressed? Extremely well. . Better than average your age, student About average . . . . . . Below average . . . . . . . O O 0 how well do I wish I could mix better with people. Strongly agree. . . . Agree . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . Disagree. . . . . . Strongly disagree . Strongly agree. . . Agree . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . Disagree. . . . . . Strongly disagree . O O O O O 0 person my age should buy clothes mother will like U'lC’WNH VIC‘UJNH feel 38) 39) ho) bl) h2) h3) I am more self conscious than most people. Strongly disagree . . Disagree. . . . . . . uncertain . . . . . . Agree . . . . . . . Strongly agree. . . . I can do things better by working with other people. Strongly agree. . . . Agree . . . . . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . Disagree. . .. . . Strongly disagree . . . . . . Compared with other people I know, I have Strongly agree. . . . Agree . . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . Disagree. . . . . . . Strongly disagree . . many more friends. Vlf—‘KJJNH mt‘wmw 13h. Before I make up my mind to do something I try to find out what other peOple think about it. Strongly disagree . . Disagree. . . uncertain . . . . . Agree . . . . . . . . Strongly agree. . . O O O 0 Having nice clothing gives a person my age a great feeling of self-confidence. Strongly disagree . . Disagree. . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . Agree . . . . . . . . Strongly agree. . . . I am satisfied with the Almost always . . . . Often . . . . . . . . Seldom........ Never . . . . . . . . have. . . O Q . VIF'WNH WVWNH S‘WNH 13S . At) It makes me feel uneasy when peOple pay a lot of attention to me. Strongly disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disagree . . . . . . . . . . . Uncertain. . . . . . . . . . . Agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . Strongly agree . . . . . . . . \nrr’wNH AS) A person my age needs nice clothes to be happy. Strongly disagree. . Disagree . . . . . . Uncertain. . . . . . Agree. . . . . . . . Strongly agree . . . o o o o . UIC'WNH A6) It bothers me when people talk about me behind my back. Strongly agree Agree. . . . . Uncertain. . . Disagree . . . . . Strongly disagree. . o 0 o o 0 o o O o vicruanabl A?) It's all right with me if I am seen arriving late at some affair like a school play, a basketball game, or a football game. Strongly agree . . . Agree. . . . . . . . . . Uncertain. . . . . . . . Disagree . . . . . . . . Strongly disagree. . . . c o o o \HC‘WNH h8) If you have nice clothes, you have a better*chance of getting a job. Strongly agree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Uncertain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . h Strongly disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . S 1.9) I don't make a good first impression on people. Strongly agree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Uncertain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . h Strongly disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 136. 50) It is very important that I know what other people think of me. Strongly agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Agree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . uncertain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strongly disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VIC-WNW 51) People my age who dress very well are more likely to be popular than those who do not dress very well. Strongly agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Agree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disagree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strongly disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VIC'UNH 52) ‘When I am in school, I feel ill at ease because of my clothes. Almost always . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Often . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seldom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Never . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c‘WNH 53) I like to get up and talk before the class. Strongly agree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Agree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Uncertain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Disagree...................... Strongly disagree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . \fll—T’WNH 5b) If you could dress like any one person or any group of persons you know or have ever heard of, who would it be, and why? (You have as long as you wish to answer this question. Write on the back of the page if necessary.) 137. Sh) (Continued) ...-...- -...--_ --.—m I. ...— __ ...___.___l_.___.. h--_ . _ _ ..- A. .— ——...-. r-o‘“".‘-I-—g—I--—_- ‘ ‘—-- . -_ - . .- ‘ -. ~l . - - — ..-. -. --—> hn- w --.---u-—--—"-.—.-I~ 55) ‘Who are the most friendly boys or girls in this class? Name the most friendly first, then the next, and so on. 1. (first name)* (last name) 2. _ 3.; -___-- _ __ 56) 'Who_are the least briendly boys or girls in this class? Name the least friendly first, and then the others who are not so friendly. 1. * (first namé)I (last mama) "AAAAAAAA‘AAA“