THE RELATIONSHIP OF SOCIAL CLASS AND SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE TO CLOTHING AND APPEARANCE OF A SELECTED GROUP OF NINTH GRADE GIRLS Thesis Ior II"; Degree OI M. A. MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY Arlene Louise Bjoxng'aard 1962 ovznous mes: 25¢ P" “I nor it. . a from“ ‘ mm LIBRARY MATERIALS: ,‘L .‘ ‘ “v", 1 Place in book return to move ,7 W’ 4 charge from circulation rccords ABSTRACT THE RELATIONSHIP OF SOCIAL CLASS AND SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE TO CLOTHING AND APPEARANCE OF A SELECTED GROUP OF NINTH GRADE GIRLS by Arlene Louise Bjorngaard The purpose of this exploratory study was to investi- gate the relationship of social class position, social acceptance, and adolescent girls' perception of clothing and appearance in a high school with social class extremes. Two factors, social class position and social accept- ance, were considered in selecting the sample. Membership in cliques determined by a sociometric question was basis of social acceptance. Warner's Index of Status Character- istics was used for obtaining social class position. The data were collected by interviewing the selected sample, 106 ninth grade girls of the East Lansing High School. The structured interview schedule contained open- ended questions pertaining to general acceptance, clothing and acceptance, clothing and self-satisfactions, and clothing confidence. A modified projective technique was also included. The girls were asked to react to "stories” about the appraisal and acceptance of a new girl in school regarding her clothing and appearance. Data pertaining to general acceptance and clothing and appearance were analyzed descriptively as to similiarities and differences between the independent variables. The I I I‘ II’I' quI. Arlene Louise Bjorngaard variables were upper social class group members, upper social class isolates, lower social class group members, and lower social class isolates. Stone's theoretical framework of ap- pearance and discourse were utilized for the analysis. Appearance makes reference to gestures, grooming, clothing, and the like. Discourse is communicated by verbal symbolism. The results of this study show that there was general consensus among the upper and lower social class group members and upper and lower social class isolates in many of the responses. These girls were more alike than they were differ- ent. A look at the similiarities gives a View of the values, norms, and customs of these ninth grade girls. For example, the following points of agreement existed on the importance of clothing and appearance in being accepted by the girls of the sample regardless of social class position or social acceptance categories. 1. There was a strong consensus that appearance was important in acceptance. Appearance responses were frequent in judgment of a new girl. 2. The characteristic that most frequently was used to describe the popular girls was the appearance response, well-dressed. 3. The girls named as popular were also referred to as best dressed. The girls named as pOpular and best dressed were generally upper social class group members. 4. Girls in all categories of social class and social acceptance saw some of the girls as not dressed right. A higher percentage of girls who were not dressed right were from the lower social class. Arlene Louise BJorngaard There were, however, areas which pointed up differences in viewpoints or values of girls in contrasting social class positions and social acceptance categories. For example: 1. Upper social class girls tended to feel better dressed than lower social class girls. 2. Upper and lower social class isolates did not think they were Judged as much by the manner in which their best friend dressed as did the upper and lower social class group members. 3. Upper social class group members seemed to be more aware of clothing and placed a greater emphasis on conformity. A. Lower social class isolates seemed to be less aware of appearance. Many of their responses, even to "appearance questions," were discourse only. This study attempted to determine whether appearance and clothing were important in the teen-age culture of a specific high school. The data supports Stone's thesis that appearance does affect interaction and views appearance and clothing in relation to other elements of the society. THE RELATIONSHIP OF SOCIAL CLASS AND SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE TO CLOTHING AND APPEARANCE OF A SELECTED GROUP OF NINTH GRADE GIRLS By Arlene Louise Bjorngaard A THESIS Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts 1962 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation and gratitude to Dr. Joanne Eicher for her guidance, encouragement and enthusiasm in directing this research; to Dr. Mary Gephart for her suggestions and criticisms of the project; to Dr. Arthur Vener for his valuable suggestions in development of the instrument; to Dr. Duane Gibson for his suggestions in selection of the sample; to Miss Betty Mass for her co—operation in permitting the sociometric question in her opinionnaire; to Miss Eleanor Kelley for all her help with the social class ranking of the ninth grade girls. The writer also wishes to extend her thanks to Mrs. Stephanie Winkler, Mrs. Frederica Neville, and Miss Barbara Loder, Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts staff members, for their various suggestions. The writer is grateful for the help and co-operation of Mr. Jack Downs, counselor at the East Lansing High School; to the interviewers, Roslyn Blum and Marianne Eubolz, for their assistance in the study; to the four girls from Okemos, Michigan, who took the pretest; to the East Lansing High School teachers who willingly released students from class for their interviews; and finally, the ninth grade girls for their willing participation in the study. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page ACKNOWLEDGMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii LIST OF TABLES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . v Chapter I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Statement of the Problem Review of the Literature Summary II METHODOLOGY. . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Selection of Method Selection of Community Procedure in Selection of Sample Selection and Description of Sample Development of Instrument Pretest Administration of Instrument Method of Analysis III. SOCIAL CLASS AND SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE AS RELATED TO GENERAL ACCEPTANCE . . . . . . . . AO General Acceptance Summary IV. SOCIAL CLASS AND SOCIAL ACCEPTANCE AS RELATED TO CLOTHING AND APPEARANCE. . . . . . . 64 Clothing and Appearance Feelings About One's Own Clothing Clothing Referents Summary V. SITUATIONAL ANALYSIS 109 Combinations of Clothing and Acceptance Colored Bobby Socks and Acceptance Expensive Clothes, Messy Hair, and Social Acceptance Summary iii Chapter Page VI. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS, AND RECOMMENDATIONS. . 1AA Summary and Conclusions Contribution of Study Suggestions for Further Study Methodological Recommendations BIBLIOGRAPHY- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 APPENDIX A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Background Information Obtained from Role Behavior Study Revised Scal; for Rating Occupation Scales for Rating Dwelling Area Revised Scale for Rating House Type Optimum Weights for I.S.C., to be Used When Data Are Missing on One Characteristic APPENDIX B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Interview Schedule iv Table 10. LIST OF TABLES Social class distribution of ISO weighted ratings by social acceptance categories of ninth grade girls, 1961—62; East Lansing High School. . . . . . Association of social class and social accept- ance to membership in clubs and organizations Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance in the factors necessary to be accepted by the popular girls. . . . . . . . . Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance in the characteristics used in judging a new girl . . . . Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance in the characteristics used in choosing a friend. . . . . . . . . . . Association of social class and social accept- ance to factors which make it difficult to make friends at East Lansing High School Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to factors which are important to be popular with group Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance of characteristics of the most popular girl in the ninth grade. . Association of social class and social aCCept- ance to naming the most popular girl in the ninth grade. . . . . . Association of social class and social accept- ance to naming the most popular girl in the ninth grade. . . . . Page 30 3A 43 A6 49 52 55 56 59 61 Table 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to differences in clothing of pOpular girls to clothing of other girls in the ninth grade. . . . . . . . . Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to why clothing influences a girl's popularity at East Lansing High School. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to the characteristics that are neces-, sary to be the best dressed girl in school Association of social class and social accept- ance to naming the best dressed girl in the ninth grade. . . . . . . . . Association of social class and social accept- ance to naming the best dressed girl in the ninth grade. . . . . . . . . . . . Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept ance to why their clothes are not right Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to a description of girls who do not dress right. . . . . . . . . . Association of social class and social accept- ance to naming the girls who do not dress right. . . . . . . . . . . Association of social class and social accept- ance to naming thelgirls whondo not dress right. . . . . . . . . . . Social class ranking of girls named as popular, best dressed, and not dressed right. Summary of girls named as pOpular, best dressed, and not dressed right . . . . . Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to the reasons for their friends not dressing right. vi Page 67 7O 72 7A 75 79 81 83 8A 86 87 92 Table” Page 23. Association of social class and social accept- ance to naming of individual whose approval of clothing is desired. . . . . . . . 98 24. Association of social class and social accept- . ance to why approval is desired. . . . . 100 25. Association of appearance responses to social class and social acceptance to type of suggestions mother makes about clothes worn to school . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 26. Association of social class and social accept- ance to why others judge you by manner best friend dresses . . . . . . . . . . 105 27. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to inviting a student into group if she is not considered well-dressed . . . . . 113 28. Association of social class and social accept- ance to group agreement or disagreement with individual decision on acceptance . . . . 115 29. Association of social class and social accept- ance to other groups agreement or disagree— ment with own groups decision on acceptance. 116 30. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept— ance to other groups agreement or disagree- ment with own groups decision on acceptance. 118 31. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to why it is important for a student to have bobby socks like the other girls. . . 121 32. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept— ance to why it is not important for a ‘u 'Mw. student to have bobby socks like other girls . . . . . . . 123 33. Association of social class and social accept- ance to outcome if the student does not get bobby socks like the other girls . . . . 125 vii Table Page 34. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to reasons for the outcome if the student does not get bobby socks like the other girls. . . . . . . . . . . . 127 35. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to reasons for messy hair playing an important or unimportant part in a student's appearance . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 36. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to reasons for wanting or not wanting someone with expensive clothes and messy hair as a friend. . . . . . . . . . . . 13A 37. Association of social class and social accept- ance to groups agreement or disagreement with individual decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 38. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept— ance to groups agreement or disagreement with individual decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 39. Association of social class and social accept- ance to other groups agreement or disagree- ment with our groups decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 40. Association of appearance and discourse responses to social class and social accept- ance to other groups agreement or disagree- ment with own groups decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair . . . . . . . . . . . . 1A1 viii CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Statement of the Problem Little depth research has been conducted in order to test the relationship of social class position and social acceptance with clothing and appearance. This exploratory study is part of a larger study on the relationship of l The purpose of this clothing and adolescent behavior. study is to investigate the relationship of social class position, social acceptance, and adolescent girls7 percep— tions of clothing and appearance in a high school with social class extremes. Review of the Literature This section will be concerned with selected theoret- ical works and research pertaining to clothing and appear— ance; adolescent peer groups and social class; and adolescent peer groups and social acceptance. The social lJoanne B. Eicher, ”Ninth Grade Girls' Attitudes and Behavior Related to Role, Appearance, Social Class, and Group Acceptance” (research in progress for Michigan State University Agricultural Experiment Station). A portion of the study was also carried out in another M.A. thesis, Betty Wass, ”Clothing as Related to Role Behavior of Ninth Grade Girls” (unpublished Master‘s thesis, Michigan State University, 1962). 2 class and social acceptance categories will be interrelated with pertinent literature emphasizing the significance of clothing. Every society classifies and organizes its members in several different ways. Once organized, if a society is to maintain itself, the young must be so shaped as to fit into the roles on which the survival of the society depends.l One way of categorizing members of a society is by age.2 One of the age categories made by our society is adolescence. Hurlock states that adolescence is the period of transition in which change takes place as the individual emerges from childhood to maturity.3 She also states that adolescence is a stage in the life cycle when a new awareness of the self develops. Clothing and appearance become a major focus of attention in the emergence of the self. The adoles- cent examines and measures himself in relation to others in the groupr It is important to the adolescent that he 4 conform to the standards and be accepted by his group. 1James S. Coleman, The Adolescent Society(New York: Free Press, 1961), p. l. 2Ralph Linton, ”Age and Sex Categories, American Sociological Review, VII, No. 5 (October, 1942), 589. 3Elizabeth B. Hurlock, Adolescent Development (New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc., 1949), p. 3. 4 Ibid., p. 240. 3 Any social group has norms of its own. Many of the attitudes of the individual are greatly influenced by the norms of the group. The system of norms transmitted to the individual occupying a given position becomes an element in his personality. The self develops through social inter~ action. It develops as the individual assumes the attitudes of others. This learned pattern of behavior in the development of the self is developed by means of symbols. A symbol is a physical phenomenon that has a meaning put on it by those who use it. Symbols become joined with the needs of the individual. It is important to know what symbols and atti— tudes others have so one can function successfully. Com— munication is possible when man develops symbols or gestures which have the same meaning for the person making the gesture as they do for the person addressed. Stone's study reveals two dimensions in every social transaction, appearance and discourse. Appearance sets the stage and limits the possi- bilities of discourse. ”Appearance and discourse, therefore, may be seen as dialectic processes going on in every human transaction. The former process has been seldom studied; 112 the latter extensively studied. Stone defines appearance lKingsley Davis, Human Society(New York: The Mac- Millan Company, 1949), p. 247. 2Gregory P. Stone, "Clothing and Social Relations: A Study of Appearance in the Context of Community Life” (un- published Ph.D. dissertation, Dept. of Sociology, University of Chicago, 1959), p. 89. I; as any aspect of the symbolic transaction which helps in the identification of the persons involved. "The appearance covers many things, including body size and shape, reputation l and image, clothing, stance, and facial expression." Discourse is defined as the text of the transaction. It is what the persons involved are talking about.2 "Clothing in its symbolic aspects provides a basis7 for our initial estimates of others, enabling us to preclude, terminate, or get on with the up-coming discourse.”3 Goffman refers to this in the statement if unacquainted with the individual, observers can glean wclues from his conduct and appearance which allow them to apply their previous experience with individuals roughly similar to the one before them or more important, to apply untested stereotypes to him. . . . They can rely on what the individual says about himself or on documentafiy evidence he provides as to who and what he is. J. C. Flugel in his edition of Psychology of Clothes also indicates that clothing is an expression of the self. Apart from face and hands-—which, it is true are the most socially expressive parts of our anatomy, and to which we have learned to devote an especially alert attention—-what we actually see and react to are, not the bodies, but the clothes of those about us. It is from their clothes that we form a first impression of our fellow-creatures as we meet them . . indeed, the very word ”personality,” as we have lGregory P. Stone, "Appearance and the Self," Human Behavior and Social Processes: An Interactionist Approach, ed. Arnold M. Rose (New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1961), p. 86. 2Stone, "Clothing and Social Relations: A Study of I Appearance in the Context of Community Life,‘ p. 91. 3Ibid., p. 29. “Erving Goffman, The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life (New York: Doubleday and Company, Inc., 1959), p. 1. 5 been reminded by recent writers implies a "mask” which is itself an article of clothing. Clothes, in fact, though seemingly mere extraneous appendages, have entered into the very core of our existence as social beings. That clothes are important to the adolescent's concept of self is indicated by the influence of clothes on his behavior. For example, Mary Ryan in a survey of tenth, eleventh, and twelfth grade students found that the girls that feel poorly dressed generally feel ill—at-ease. Some of these girls reported that they did not feel a part of the group when they felt they were poorly dressed. The ones that had a sense of being well-dressed were not con- scious of their clothing most of the time. She indicates that if the girls felt well dressed they might become more talkative and "peppier," or they might forget their clothing and be relaxed. On the other hand, if they were dissatisfied with their clothing they might be self— conscious and so quieter, or they might feel - conspicuous and try to keep from center of group. The reasons most often given for the importance of being well dressed were under the classification of "social contribution." Being well dressed was considered important because people are judged by their appearance and therefore clothes are important in gaining desired ends socially, attracting the opposite sex, or obtaining a job.2 The available research indicates that clothing plays a large part in making for happiness and success in adoles- cent life. Silverman did a study of the actual clothing 1J. C. Flugel, The Psychology of Clothes (London: The Hogarth Press, 1950), pp. 15-16. 2Mary S. Ryan, Psychological Effects of Clothing, Part I: "Survey of the Opinions of College Girls" (Cornell University Agricultural Station, Bulletin 882, September, 1952):IPP-3O-31- 6 and grooming practices of adolescent girls by means of a check list and questionnaire. This was administered to 1100 students in a New Jersey High School. A section of Silver— man‘s study, "Values of Clothing and Appearance," indicated that the entire group, regardless of age, attached consid- erable significance to clothing and appearance. Three- fourths of the group indicated that the right clothes were a necessary concomitent of happiness. Good appearance was felt to be an aid in building self-confidence.l Warden's study revealed that "all girls expressed the belief that clothes can help one to feel more competent."2 Adolescents' self-confidence is also influenced by their friends. Waldron found that "when asked if they thought .that others would like them better if they were well- dressed, 46 girls answered 'yes' and eight answered 'no‘."3 Another way of classifying members of a society is by groups. Peer-group is a term used by sociologists to refer to aggregates of youngsters about the same age level. Adolescent peer groups are organized much like the adult f 1Sylvia Silverman, Clothing and Appearance: Their Psy- chological Implications for Teen—Age Girls (New York: Bureau of Publications, Teachers College, Columbia University, 1945), p. 61. 2Jessie A. Warden, ”Some Factors Effecting the Satis— faction and Dissatisfaction with Clothing of Women Students in the College of Liberal Arts” (unpublished Ph.D. disserta— tion, Pennsylvania State College, 1955), p. 197. 3Joyce Jean Waldron, "Clothing Buying Practices of 11th and 12th Grade Girls of Wyandotte High School and the Opinions of the Girls and Their Mothers Regarding These Practices" (un- published Master‘s thesis, Oklahoma State University, 1961), p. 137. 7 society of which they are a part.1 The organization of adolescent peer groups is parallel to the social class stratification of our society. "The usual tendency of adults to associate with people on the basis of wealth and general occupational class appears here as a characteristic of high school pupils, doubtless indirectly because of the general tendencies for social groupings to accord with the economic and occupational hierarchies.”2 Allison Davis also indicates that the adolescent organizes his peer group along the line of social class.3 One type of non~deviant peer group is the clique. Bossard defines the clique as a ”small intimate social partic- ipation group consisting of persons of the same social status and in agreement concerning the exclusion of other individuals from the group."11L ”The adolescent clique is a more or less permanent, closely-knit selective and highly intimate small group of individuals who share common secrets, common desires, common problems, and common interests such as those based on family background, school activities, 1David P. Ausubel, Theory and Problems of Adolescent Development (New York: Grune and Stratton, 1954), p. 334. 2Mapheus Smith, "Some Factors in Friendship Selections of High School Students," Sociometry, VII (1944), 308. 3Allison Davis, ”Socialization and Adolescent Person— ality," Readings in Social Psychology (New York: Henry Holt and Co., 1952), 521. “J. H. s. Bossard, The Sociology of Child Development (New York: Harper and Brothers, 1949), p. 496. 8 and the like."1 When cliques are based on similar prestige class background, many of the activities of the clique become class related as the amount of spending money influ— ences the activity.2 Hollingshead also found a relationship between the class position of an adolescent's family and his social behavior.3 His study indicates that the people of Elmtown thought of "themselves as members of classes and they act in part toward one another on the basis of their judgments about each others class position. Persons who possess a cluster of similar values tend to be grouped into more or less common prestige positions. Persons with other values and correlated traits are assigned other levels or 'pegs'.”LL In his study of the youth culture of the high school, Gordon found that status was based on a multi-value system. These values were instrumental to the individual in attaining his position. Several of these values were derived from income and family position. The values of main importance were grade achievement, grade rank, organized acts, clique membership, dating, dress, manners, and socio-economic lAusubel, op. cit., p. 350. 2Joseph A. Kahl, The American Class Structure (New York: Rinehart and Company, Inc., 1957), p. 130. 3August B. Hollingshead, Elmstown's Youth (New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1949), p. 441. uIbid., p. 75. 9 positions based on the occupation of the father.1 The findings of Anastasi and Miller indicate that high school girls in upper socio-economic class ascribe greater prestige value to being a good dresser as constrasted to neat and clean than boys and girls of lower social classes. Vener in his study of adolescent boys and girls found that "boys and girls whose fathers are in occupations of higher status tend to express sentiments of high clothing deprivation less frequently than those whose fathers are in occupations of lower status."3 Hoult found the college students used as subjects per—- ceived clothing as much more significant for others as a factor in a certain type of social status rating than it was for themselves. There are a few studies that have indicated a rela— tionship between socio-economic status and social acceptance. Dewey points out that adolescence is the stage at which there is a great need to be accepted and to reflect the lC. Wayne Gordon, The Social System of the High School (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1957), pp. 133-134. 2A. Anastasi and S. Miller, "Adolescent Prestige Factors in Relation to Scholastic and Socio-Economic Factors, Journal of Social Psyghology, XXIX (1949), H 3Arthur Vener, "Adolescent Orientations to Clothing: A Social- -Psychological Interpretation" (unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State University, 1957), p. 62. “Thomas Ford Hoult, ”Clothing as a Factor in the Social Status Rating of Men” (unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, University of Southern California, 1951), p. 274. 10 feelings of the group.1 Doctor G. G. Thompson of Syracuse University in a preliminary study showed a correlation between social accept- ance and socio-economic status for girls between grades six and twelve.2 Morgan and Cook report high correlations between friendship and socio-economic status. Morgan reported that a combination of behavior and social status served to deter- mine a child's acceptability and reputation. Coming from the right social class was more important than the amount of time a child had lived in the community.3 Cook's data in a sociometric survey support the hypothesis that teen— agers of similar social class chose each other as friends.“ Neugarten, in a sample of Midwestern school children, found that both friendship status and reputation parallel social class position to the advantage of the upper socio- economic classes. Lower class children were more often than not given a negative rating and named as people you would lRichard Dewey and w. J. Humber, The Development of Human Behavior (New York: The MacMillan Company, 1951), p. 297. 2Raymond G. Kuhlen, Psychology of Adolescent Develop- ment, citing G. G. Thompson (New York: Harper and Brothers, 1952). p. 326. 3H. G. Morgan, ”Social Relationships of Children in a Warboom Community," Journal of Educational Research, XL (December, 1946), 285-286. 5Lloyd A. Cook,'Uh1Experimental Sciographic Study of a Stratified Tenth Grade Class,” American Sociological Review, X (1945), 261. 11 not care to have for friends.1 This seems to signify that class values influence behavior, even at an early age. Research also indicates that the socially acceptable and socially isolated have certain personality characteris- tics. Gronlund and Anderson found that the socially accepted boys and girls have the characteristics of being: good-looking, tidy, friendly, likable, enthusiastic, cheerful, and talkative. The socially neglected students were more apt to be overlooked rather than disliked. The socially rejected had a low rating on the above character- istics; however, they were agressive so they drew attention to themselves and as a result were rejected.2 Hurlock and Coleman both report the importance of acceptance to the adolescent by his peer group. Hurlock gives physical attractiveness, good grooming, stylish clothes, and socio-economic status as some of the factors which contribute to popularity during adolescence.3 Coleman found the elites of the school were closer to their fellow adolescents than to their parents. This adds intensity to the group pressures which they feel. The adolescent will bend over backwards to be like his peer group in dress, opinions, and behavior. This not only helps lBerneice Lo Neugarten, "Social Class and Friendship Among School Children," American Journal of Sociology, LI (1946), 312-313. 2Norman E. Gronlund and Loren Anderson, ”Personality Characteristics of Socially Accepted, Socially Neglected, and Socially Rejected Junior High School Pupils,” Educational Administration and Supervision, XLIII (October, 1957), 333. 3Hurlock, op. cit., p. 202. 12 to guarantee acceptance but also helps to remove feelings of inferiority which they have when they are different.1 According to other investigations, appearance and/ manner are of great importance in determining social accept- ance. A questionnaire used by Masumoto disclosed a tendency for students to select the students they considered well- dressed as being popular.2 Moore also found that the girls who were leaders in clothing behavior were leaders in 3 An attractive face, a trim figure, a stylish popularity. hair-do, and clothes prescribed by the fads of the moment were elements of attractiveness. Homeliness, dirtiness, excessive fatness or thinness, out-of-date or shabby clothes, or crudeness in manner are sources of unpopularity. Girls who rate low in appearange are negative, withdrawn, and not interested in people or events. Enty mentions the significance of group approval in her study on the effect of clothing on the social adjustment of the adolescent girl. ”The adolescent had a tendency to feel inferior if her dress were soiled, more practical than lColeman, op. cit., p. 6. 2Sachiko Masumoto, ”The Relationship of Dress and Be- havior Associated with Dress to the Social Participation of the Adolescent Boy and Girl” (unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1958), p. 131. 3Kathleen Anne Moore, ”Fashion Leadership Designation and Related Factors Among a Group of Adolescent Girls” (un- published Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1962): P- 73. ”Lester Cole, Psychology of Adolescence (New York: Rinehart and Company, 1954), p. 140. 13 fashionable, or extremely different from those of the rest of the group."1 An important factor in the group's acceptance or re— jection of an individual is the extent and the manner to which he conforms to the ways of the group. "Fads become extremely important, and refusal to accept them may mean group exclusion."2 This conformity in dress, opinions, and behavior is important to the adolescent as it helps him identify with the group and also in development of the self. Much of what adults call "faddism" among adolescents stems from his attempts to try out different clothes, hair styles, manners, and attitudes in an effort to assert him- self as a person. Murray Wax indicates that a teen-ager follows fad and fashion "because she is experimenting with herself and has not yet developed a_self-image with which she can be comfortable."3 Fads which are followed are originated by the young women of the prestige bearing cliques who are leaders in other types of activities. Different types of fads are tried out in different types of cliques. The overwhelming majority of students do not originate fads. Girls who are insensitive to fads are also insefisitive and unskillful in other social situations. 1J. D. Enty, "The Effect of Clothing on the Social Adjustment of the Adolescent Girl" (unpublished Master's thesis, Howard University, 1954), p. 36. 2John E. Horrocks, The Psychology of Adolescence (Cambridge, Massachusetts: The Riverside Press, l95l),p.15l. 3Murray Wax, "Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming," American Journal of Sociology, LXII (1957), 592. ”J. E. Janney, "Fad and Fashion Leadership Among Under- graduate Women,” Journal of ”Abnormal and Social Psychology, XXXVI (1941), 275. 14 Sohn in her study found that fashion leaders in a select group, fraternity men at Pennsylvania State University, could be identified by members of their peer group.1 Comments were made in the Gordon study that members of the popular crowd start the fads but it must be something everyone can afford before it will become a fad. He also found that dress was a major source of social differentiation because of its high visibility.2 “,,_ A fad is one of the ways in which adolescents can con- form to the behavior of the group. This conformity is shown in no other phase of the individual's life as it is in dress. "Every detail of clothing follows a set standard and any deviation from it is apt to cause mental anguish to the wearer. At no other time is the wearing of clothing inferior to that of the rest of the group so great a hardship as at this age.”3 The Lynds found in their study of Middletown that several mothers emphasized the importance placed on clothes and their inability to meet these standards were reasons for their children leaving school. They indicated that they could not give them money for the right kind of clothes.” lMarjorie Ann Sohn, ”Personal—Social Characteristics of Clothing Fashion Leaders Among Fraternity Men” (unpublished Master's thesis, Pennsylvania State University, 1959), p. 16. 2Gordon, op. cit., pp. 114-117. 3Elizabeth B. Hurlock, The Psychology of Dress (New York: Ronald Press Co., 19297, p. 181. “Robert S. Lynd and Helen M. Lynd, Middletown (New York: Harcourt, Brace and Company, Inc., 1929), p. 186. 15 The right kind of clothes help the adolescent identify with the group and it gives him a feeling that he belongs to it. This gives him a security of status that he would not have if his appearance differed from that of the group.1 The function of group conformity in dress as viewed by the stu— dents in the Gordon study is as follows: How one dresses influences the crowd one belongs to. If you belong to the right crowd, you are expected to dress above average. Most of the right crowd have their supply of cashmere sweaters. There are girls who are leaders who do not have cashmeres but dress better than average. It depends on who they are if they receive criticisms for what they wear. ”The leaders do not have as many restrictions on clothing as do those who would like to be leaders. One who is a leader can wear something out of the ordinary and 'get by' with it because they are accepted and anything rather odd that they wear has a chance of becoming the style because the leaders are the ones who start the style."2 In his study of ten schools, Coleman found that in every school most students saw a leading crowd based on good personality, good looks, having nice clothes, and being well dressed. ”Well dressed differs from well-to—do suburbs and working-class school. Nevertheless whether it is the number of cashmere sweaters a girl owns or simply having 1Elizabeth B. Hurlock, Developmental Psychology (New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc., 1959), p. 246. 2Gordon, op. cit., p. 115. 16 clean and attractive dresses, the matter of having good clothes is important. The importance of clothes appears to derive partially from the fact that clothing symbolizes "1 Coleman found that clothing symbols varied family status. from school to school and among the cliques at each school. In determining social acceptability in adolescents, factors pertaining to neatness, cleanliness, and dress have been included in several studies. According to Bonney, popular children were in accord with the group norms of dress, grooming, and manners.2 Cannon, Staples, and Carlson found a significant relationship between personal appearance and social acceptance during the junior and senior high school period for girls. The popular girls from the seventh through the twelfth grade excel or conform closely to the norm for personal appearance.3 Kuhlen emphasizes the high social awareness of adoles- cence in contrast to adult life. This is partially because school life forces adolescents into contact with individuals from a variety of backgrounds. In the school culture, many adolescents are at a disadvantage as they rub shoulders with those who possess greater poise, better clothes, better lColeman, op. cit., p. 37. 2M. E. Bonney, ”Popular and Unpopular Children: A Sociometric Study,” Sociometry Monographs, IX (New York: Beacon House, 1947), p. 29. 3Kenneth L. Cannon, Ruth Staples, and Irene Carlson, ”Personal Appearance as a Factor in Social Acceptance," Journal of Home Economics, XLIV (1952), 712. 17 family standing, and a more active social life. Attention is often focused on these differences. A school culture which is characterized with cliques and formal social groups often focuses attention on these activities and this en— hances the need for the adolescent to belong to these groups. He will be conscious of his lack of status if he fails and does not obtain membership in these groups.1 Thus, in a response to his need to belong, the adoles- cent learns to dress like the rest of the crowd. Dress becomes a badge of conformity for the group. Summary Davis, Hollingshead, and Smith all indicate that adolescent peer groups organize along social class lines. Gordon points out that status for the adolescent is built on a multi—value system, several of which are based on the occupation of the father. Others like Cook and Bonney have found a relationship between social acceptability and socio-economic status. Acceptance is important to the adolescent peer group. The literature (Hurlock, Coleman, and Masumoto) expresses the thesis that appearance, manner, and stylish clothes are im- portant factors in determining social acceptance. An adolescent culture which has an emphasis on cliques and social groups often focuses attention on clothing, lKuhlen, o . cit., p. 291. 18 appearance, and family background. Thus to meet his need to belong, the adolescent uses dress as a badge of conformity to the group of which he is a member or to the group to which he would like to join. The available literature points out the importance of clothing and appearance, social class position, and social acceptance to the adolescent. Research has been done on social class, social acceptance as viewed through clique membership and social isolates, and clothing behavior; but little knowledge is available on the relationship of these factors in adolescent life. It is the purpose of this study to investigate the relationship of social class position with adolescent girls' perception of clothing and appearance to peer group social acceptance in a high school with social class extremes. The significance of this exploratory study will be to develop hypotheses to determine the relation of clothing and appearance with social acceptance in a situation with social class extremes. The study will look at the social significance of the social interaction in terms of Stone’s theoretical framework of appearance and discourse. Data will be analyzed and distinctions will be made between these non-verbal and verbal symbols. The non-verbal symbols of clothing and appearance will be investigated as a basis for establishment of social identity of those who come together in a school culture which has its setting in a community which is predominately high income. According to Stone, l9 discourse has a great influence upon the development of the self; however, discourse is not possible without appearance which allows the discussants to identify each other. The next chapter will discuss the methodology of the study. Chapters III, IV, and V will be concerned with an analysis of data using social class, social acceptance as related to general acceptance, and the influence of clothing and appearance. The analysis will be done in view of Stone's theoretical framework of appearance and discourse. The last chapter contains the summary and conclusions of the study. CHAPTER II METHODOLOGY The methodology for this study will be presented as follows: (1) selection of method, (2) selection of com- munity, (3) procedure in selection of sample, (4) selection and description of sample, (5) development of instrument, (6) pretest, (7) administration of instrument, and (8) method of analysis. Selection of Method Because the relationship of social class, social acceptance, and clothing behavior in adolescent life is relatively unexplored, it was felt that an exploratory study would be the most fruitful method of studying these rela- tionships. Selltiz indicates that in problems where little knowledge is available, an exploratory study will usually be the most appropriate method. An exploratory study may develop hypotheses and establish priorities for further research.1 Exploratory studies must be tested for definite proof in other studies.2 lClaire Selltiz, Marie Jahoda, Morton Deutsch, and Stuart w. Cook, Research Methods in Social Relations (New York: Henry Holt and Company, Inc., 1960), p. 51. 2L. Festinger and D. Katz (editors), Research Methods in the Behavioral Sciences (New York: Dryden Press, 1953), p. 74. 2O 21 In formulating the research procedure of this explora— tory study, it was decided that an excellent method for obtaining insights would be the intensive study of selected instances. Selltiz indicates that this may be done by focusing on individuals, situations, groups, or communities. He also suggests that isolates may emphasize factors which unite a particular group or community. They may disclose the manner in which attitudes and information is transmitted in a social group. The characteristics of individuals who fit well and those who do not fit well in a given situation give us valuable clues about the nature of a locality.1 The above factors were determinants in using social isolates and group members as a measure of social acceptance for this exploratory study. ”Even an exploratory study should be so designed as to provide as definite information as possible for a set of research objectives."2 It is important to have control in the recording of respondents ideas. This implies the structuring of an instrument. McCormick and Francis indicate that the depth interview is an excellent method for obtaining information for an exploratory study. It is ”more capable than other methods for getting at the fundamental or essential factors of overt 1Selltiz, o . cit., pp. 59—63. 2Festinger and Katz, op. cit., p. 75. 22 i 4— + +— "1 behavior . . . in which the investiga. r is inoeresoed. Hurlock suggests the controlled interview as an excellent method for obtaining information concerning adolescents atti- tudes in regard to clothes. These factors were decisive in determining the use of the depth interview as the method for this exploratory study. Selection of Community According to information from the United States Census reports for 1960, East Lansing, Michigan, can be described in this manner:2 East Lansing, a suburb of Lansing, is located in South Central Michigan. Since more than 20 per cent of the popula- tion of East Lansing is enrolled in college, it can be classi- H3 fied as an "education center. There were 30,198 residents in East Lansing in the 1960 census, including the college students. The pOpulation of East Lansing is highly educated. Persons of age twenty-five and over have a median of 15.8 years of education. Eighty-nine per cent ofiflfljspopulation have completed four years of high school. Of the total population in the fourteen to seventeen year old age group 98.5 per cent are in school at the present time. lThomas McCormick and Ray Francis, Methods of Research in the Behavioral Sciences (New York: Harper, 1958), p. 129. 2U. S. Bureau of Census, Michigan General Population Characteristics, 1960 (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1960). 3Grace Kneedler, ”Functional Types of Cities," p. 4. (Mimeographed.) 23 The residents of East Lansing can be described as young and mobile. The median age is 22.2 years. Fifty-eight and eight-tenths per cent of the residents are natives of Michigan. The percentage who moved into their present house in East Lansing after 1958 is 50.7. The young mobile popu— lation may be an influence of the college community. The median East Lansing income is $7,152 while the median state income is $6,256. Twelve and two—tenths per cent of East Lansing residents have income under $3,000 but 31.7 have incomes of $10,000 and over. East Lansing provides jobs for its own residents as well as others. There are 71.9 per cent in white collar occupations and seven per cent in manufacturing industries. Almost 40 per cent of the wives and mothers are employed. East Lansing is an atypica1.communityin.that it has a young highly educated white collar population. Economically the city is a high income community with one-third of the incomes $10,000 or over. The educational system of East Lansing is composed of six elementary schools, one junior high school for grades seven and eight, and a senior high school for grades nine through twelve. The high school has a student population of 1103. A situation unique to the East Lansing school district is the recent annexation of an area called Towar Gardens which is primarily a low income working class neighborhood. 24 Students from Towar Gardens have been in the East Lansing High School for two years. The extreme differences in social class background of students in the East Lansing High School were the main reasons for the selection of this site for this research. The school officials of East Lansing were most willing to extend their co-operation for this research project. Procedure in Selection of Sample Two factors were considered in selection of sample. They were social class position and social acceptance. Clique Structure Membership in cliques was used for an operational defini- tion of social acceptance and as one of the criteria for selection of the sample in this exploratory study. Many investigations of social acceptability have been conducted in school settings. Students from selected classes have been given types of sociometric tests to determine their status among their schoolmates. Gronlund and Whitney in investigating the adolescent‘s acceptance in the classroom, the school, and the neighborhood found that scores on socio- metric tests conducted in the classroom may be a reliable index of the individual's general social acceptability among his peers. The individuals who were accepted in the classroom were also accepted in the school as a whole and in their neighborhood. The students who were unpopular with their classmates were generally unaccepted by their peers in 25 the neighborhood.1 When children were asked to list the names of boys andbr girls whom they would select as companions for various activi- ties, the answers were extremely significant in revealing the social acceptance of individuals and the social structure of adolescent groups. When adolescents were asked to name two friends in sociometric tests, they often failed to mention their third or fourth best friend. Thus it was theoretically possible for an adolescent to be a fairly good friend of many of his associates and have a relatively good level of accept- ance yet not be mentioned by anyone at all.2 The sociometric question used to determine social acceptance in this study was asked in several parts to eliminate this error. The girls could name four of their best friends in this particular grade and school. The socio- metric question was placed in an opinionnaire which was part of the larger study administered to all of the ninth grade girls in the East Lansing High School.3 The sociometric question is reproduced in Appendix A, page 159. The social acceptance rating was indicative only of acceptance in the ninth grade (the only grade to which the questionnaire was 1Norman E. Gronlund and A. P. Whitney, "Relation Between Pupil's Social Acceptability in the Classroom, in the School, and in the Neighborhood,” School Review, LXIV (September, 1956), 27c. 2Kuhlen, op. cit., pp. 614—615. 3Wass, op. cit. 26 administered) at East Lansing High School. Each girl in the study was given a number. Best friend choices were coded by number and tabulated on a large chart. If best friends were in another grade or another school, this was coded accordingly. Reciprocal choices were circled and joined with a line to indicate friendship choices. Distinctions were made between first and second and their third and fourth choice. AS a result of this sociometric question the social acceptance classification of the ninth grade of East Lansing High School was established. Two categories of social accept- ance were determined. The established categories were social isolates and group members which consisted of mutual choice selections and clique members. An isolate was (a) one in which the best girl friend selected did not reciprocate or (b) one who selected no friends. A mutual choice was a mutual reciprocal selection by only one best friend. Clique members were those who had reciprocal choices by more than one best friend.1 The sociometric question showed the composition of clique structure in East Lansing High School as having seventeen cliques ranging in size from three to twenty-six members.2 The average clique size was 5.35. Of the 154 ninth grade girls 111 lA reciprocal mutual choice could be drawn into clique membership if reciprocal best friend had two or more reciprocal selections. 2Warner indicates the clique is an "intimate nonkin group, membership in which may vary in numbers from two to thirty or more people." W. Lloyd Warner and Paul S. Lunt, The Social Life of a Modern Community, Yankee City Series Vol. I (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1941), p. 110. 27 were clique members, eighteen were mutual choices, and twenty— five were isolates.l Social Class The other criterion used in selection of the sample was social status. Several different techniques for measuring social status are currently in use; the method used for this exploratory study was Warner's Index of Status Characteristics. "Several attempts have been made to con- struct short indexes but only Warner's has been validated against an independent measure of prestige from qualitative ”2 In reference to Warner's Index of Status interviews. Characteristics Martindale also states that the use of the term social class and the manner in which it has been studied appears to be an adequate procedure which can be applied to small cities.3 1These girls were isolates due to no reciprocal selection or their choosing someone outside of ninth grade or someone in another school. The twenty-five isolates in the ninth grade responded to the naming of their best friends in the following manner: Number of Response ' , Girls Gave no names 4 Named girls in ninth grade in East Lansing only 1 Named other grade only 1 Named other school only 4 Named both ninth grade and other grade 1 Named ninth grade, other grade, and other school 2 Named ninth grade and other school 12 2Kahl, op. cit., p. 41. 3Don Martindale, American Society(Princeton, New Jersey: D. Van Nostrand Company, Inc., 1960), p. 397. 28 The social class ranking of each girl in the ninth grade was determined by Warner's Index of Status Charac- teristics. The three indices of the Index of Status Charac- teristics used were father‘s occupation, dwelling area, and house type. The source of income (the fourth index ordinarily used) could not be used since this information was not ob— tained in background information. Each index was rated on a seven point scale (Appendix A, pages 160—163). The rating was multiplied by the appropriate weight (a) occupation times five, (b) dwelling area times three, and (0) house type times four. The computed sum was the ISO score for the family.1 See Appendix A, page 164 for the weighting system of deter- mining the ISC scores. A few changes were made in the occupational rating due to the particular nature of the "educational community” of East Lansing (see Appendix A, pages 160—161). Warner indi— cates that, the specific classifications used here were designed for a particular community; certain modifications might be necessary in other communities. In a large city, with a number of large business concerns, a different monetary value might be assigned to each category of proprietors. There may be a change in the status, and consequently in the rating assigned to a mayor, high school principal etc., depending on the size of the community. However, while there might be a change in the range allowed within any category, the general method of classification and \J the framework developed here will have general use and can be applied to all communities. lW. Lloyd Warner, Marchia Meeker, and Kenneth Eells, Social Class in America (Chicago: Science Research Associ- ates, Inc., 1949), p. 185. 21bid., p. 158. 29 The father's occupation was obtained from background information of the Role Behavior Study.l Warner's Revised Scale for Rating Occupation was used in rating occupations (Ap- pendix A, pages 160—161). A double check was made in accuracy of father's occupation by checking father's occupation in school records and the city directory. The residential area of East Lansing was rated on a seven point scale by four individuals--an economist, a sociologist, a real estate agent, and the researcher of this study. The houses were rated on a seven point scale by two or more individuals, one of which was the researcher. With the use of Warner's ISC the social class range for the families of the ninth grade girls in East Lansing had scores which ranged from twelve to seventy-five. Table 1 gives the social class rank and social acceptance of the ninth grade girls. Social class is showed by the ISC weighted rating and social acceptance is viewed through isolates, mutual choices, and clique members. Selection and Description of Sample The selected sample based on the criteria of the socio- metric question for acceptance and Warner's Index of Status Characteristics for social class consisted of 106 girls from 154 in the ninth grade. lWass, op. cit. 30 .QOHmeHmeCoUH mom stESC w co>Hm mm: osvHHo Lomm .mSUHHo 0p meowos Hum .omhp mmsog pom comm mcHHHoZU .COprQSQOO co comma wchms omHH emH m m m m s m e w w e mm s e w c eH m wH mm nHmooe HH H m H m s em-os m H H mm-sm : H m H mmnmm m H m H©-em m H H mm-Hm N: H H m m m s H m m s s s om-wm @H H H m H s H H m e smgem or m H H m H H m m H s H s m w e s mm-mm H H em-mm mH H H H H H m m H mm-wH s H m H H H sHumH nHmooe sH 6H mH :H mH mH HH 6H m w s w m e m m H ooHono oomHonH nmsHomm Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho mHo Hoses: cowwmwoz .Hoosom gmflm mcflmmmq pmmm mmmnHmmH .mHme mwmum chH: no moflmowopmo mocmpgooom Hwfloom an mmzflpwm copfiwfloz omH mo COHQSQHHHmHU mmmHo Hwfloomnu.a mHQMB 31 For social class differentiation the two social class extremes were used. According to the ISC ratings, girls with scores of twelve to thirty-seven were classified as upper class. The range for lower class was sixty—two to eighty-four.l Social acceptance distinctions made were be- tween group members and isolates on the basis of the socio- metric question. The breakdown of the number of girls in each of the established categories for the independent variables is given below: Categories Number Upper social class group members . . . 77 Upper social class isolates. . . . . . 12 Lower social class group members . . . 12 Lower social class isolates. . . . . . 5 In this selected sample there were a higher proportion of isolates from the lower social class than from the upper social class. Out of a total of seventeen lower social class girls 35 per cent were isolates and of the eighty—nine upper social class girls only 13 per cent were isolates. Neugarten also found that friendship paralleled social class position to the advantage of the upper socio—economic classes.2 1The use of the term ”upper” for East Lansing does not have the same meaning as Warner's upper class did. Upper in reference to East Lansing also includes upper middle and indeterminate. The lower class of East Lansing consisted of indeterminate upper-lower to lower-lower class according to Warner's social class equivalents. 2Neugarten, o . cit., p. 312. 32 The community of East Lansing is highly educated. The high educational level is revealed in this study too. The main financial supporter of the families of the girls studied had graduated from college in 73 per cent of the cases. This is slightly higher than the entire ninth grade in which 67 per cent of the family heads were college graduates. The main financial supporter was the father in 102 out of 106 families (96 per cent). In the entire study, 95 per cent of the cases the father was the main financial supporter. I Professional status according to Warner's Index of Status Characteristics was held by 58 per cent of the primary financial supporter of each family. In the entire study, 44 per cent had professional status. The mother contributed to the financial support of the family in 24 per cent of the families of this sample, whereas 34 per cent of the families had a second person contributing to their financial support in the entire ninth grade. Both figures were somewhat less than the average 40 per cent of working wives and mothers in East Lansing. The religious preference of this population was pre- dominately Protestant. This sample was composed of 82 per cent Protestants, 10 per cent Roman Catholics, and the remaining were Jewish and other. Eighty-one per cent of the entire group were Protestants. The girls in this study were active in clubs and organ- izations. Only five did not belong to any clubs. Eight did not belong to clubs in the entire ninth grade. The following 33 observations can be made about club activities of these selected ninth grade girls (Table 2). Upper social class group members have membership in more clubs than upper social class isolates. Three or more club memberships were held by nearly half of the upper social class group members while none of the upper social class isolates belonged to more than two. Upper social class group members have more memberships in clubs than lower social class group members do. Nearly 17 per cent of lower class group members belonged to three or more clubs, whereas 43 per cent of upper social class group members had membership in at least three organizations. ”Forty-six per cent of the ninth grade girls had attended grade school in a town other than East Lansing or had attended two or more grade schools in East Lansing. It appears that the families of the ninth grade girls were only slightly less mobile than the average population.”1 In the selected sample a difference in mobility was found between social class and social acceptance. The upper social class was more mobile than the lower social class. The lower social class isolates had no mobility. They had all attended only one school in East Lansing. The most mobile group was the upper social class isolates. lWass, op. cit., p. 24. ’ 34 moH m SH wH :m o: mHmpoE m H o H H m mcpmHomH mH H H H m s nsonsoz ozone mmmHo HmHoom Loon mH o o o s m mopMHOmH es m 6H 6H eH mm nnoHEoz ozone mmmHo HmHoom Load: mHMHOB oncoamom ocoz Op @902 no ssom omsne on 039 on oco 0p monomopmo mcoHcm on wGOHmm MQOHom mcoHom wGOHom moowpaooo< HwHoom one monowopmo mmcoamom mmmHo HmHoom .mQOHpmNHwaHo van mQSHo QH QHmeonEoE 0p mosmpdooom HmHOOm com mmmHo HmHoom mo COHpmHoomm3 .5 43 ra o c Ens -HH g 1: o C) 2 c0 LflEZ my: U) Q B Upper Social Class Group Members 18 4 l3 3 l 4 2 #5 Upper Social Class Isolates l O 5 O l O O 7 Lower Social Class Group Members 0 l l O O 2 2 6 Lower Social Class Isolates O O 2 l O 1 O A Totals 19 5 21 4 2 7 4 62 53 of their own position and doesn‘t want to jeopardize it." "It is harder than at some schools. Kids seem to be higher class. They are more particular about how their friends look and act.” Two appearance only responses were given in answer to the question which asked what things were important to do in order to be popular with their group (Appendix B, Ques- tion 5). Seventy-five responses referred to discourse only. A similiarity was found in the number of discourse only responses in all of the categories of social class and social acceptance, as is shown by the following figures: Response Categories -Social Class and Social Appearance Acceptance Appearance Discourse and No Categories Only Only Discourse Group Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 1 57 17 2 77 Isolates l 6 4 l 12 Lower Social Class Group Members O 8 2 2 l2 Isolates O 4 l O 5 Totals 2 75 24 5 106 In answer to the question "With the group you go around with, what are some things which are important to do in order to be popular?" appearance responses accounted for only 17 per cent of the total number of responses. Two girls from upper 54 social class referred to appearance only. Table 7 indicates that having nice clothes and being neat were the items which received the largest number of appearance responses. Four of the lower social class isolates commented on dis- course only. This is in accord with their responses to ques- tions 1 and 3. It can be seen from Table 7 that two of the discourse responses received seventy out of 146 responses. They were (1) proper action and attitude to others and (2) taking part in activities that the group was interested in, such as going to the movies, skating, and dancing. A good person- ality and being friendly were also important considerations in being popular with the group. Comments frequently emphasized the importance of ”acting yourself and not being fakey." Responses to the question asking for the characteris- tics of the most popular girl in the ninth grade (Appendix B, Question 6) were primarily both appearance and discourse responses. Seventy-six responses referred to both appear- ance and discourse. None of the girls referred to appear- ance only and nineteen referred to Just discourse, as is shown in the tabulation on the following page. Of all the appearance and discourse characteristics, the most frequent response was "dressed well” (Table 8). To prevent an introduction of a clothing or appearance bias, clothing and appearance had not been mentioned in any of the preceding questions up to this time. This response to 55 mmH O m mm mm O m 0H Hm Hm mHH Hm m : mH mH mHopoe O O O m H O H O m m m x O O O H mmpmHomH mm.mHo HmHoom awSQH OH H O m 3 H H O m O NH OH O O m O mumpEoE adopw mmmHo HwHoom smsoq NH O H m q H m H O O OH O O H m : mopmHomH mm.mHo . HmHoom pond: HHH m S RN Om : O O :H OH MO mm m m O O mmoQEoE QSOQO mmmHo HmHoom pogo: L N .u V .4.a N ASTl 01 .a En. Tu ”m VTIAOMH N ”N O O O O O J T. O U 8 J 80 O 0 d U 0 a 8 T. a. O 3 O 9 U. 3 u I. JO 1 d 1 J 9 B O a H “v I. 01o e 0.1 s so 11p a u1.ea J J o. e 1.. M... o m. Om w... a m... e. 1.. MW mam... o d a o. e s .o I a A. wasn+S m. moHpomome w W m... .111 W m. I. .A H m 0 m. M. O 1 megapamooa. S e S 3 D. H a. S a D. I U. HOHOOO UGO a S I. n .A a O a S O I. m S I. 4 S meHU HOHOOO u u o u H a e S mmhsoomHm oonmmoQQH .QSOLO csz AMHSQOQ on ow pCMpLOQEH mum 50H£3 mm0pomm on oofldpgooom HmHoom was mmmHo HmHoom ou momcoammp mandoomHO Una mocmLMmadm mo COHpmHoowmHw ow cane opoz 038 oco mosmpaoood anus 00% H moo oz oomsmom ooEmz omemz ooEmz HmHoom com mmmHo HmHoom anzaom mm omemz meHU mo mloowopmo omcoamom .oommw :ch: onp CH Hpr LmHSQoa pmoE map wcHEm: Op oocmwamoom HmHoOm ocm mmmHo HmHoOm mo QOHpmHoommHO 0: :m:9 msoz 029 0:0 oo:®uaooo< %:mz 008 H 0:0 02 oomsmom c0682 posmz coEmz HmHoom 0:m wmmHO HmHoom ©0mm0:@ Hmom mm oosmz mH:HO mo noH:0mopmo .mUmLm :H:H: m:p :H H:Hw cmwmmso Omen o:: m:HEm: 0H 00:0pdooom HMHoow 0:8 mmMHo HmHoom m0 :OHHmHoommH oHQME 82 girls other than their clothing. Thirty-seven per cent referred to the fact that these girls came from poor families. Table 15 gives these discourse responses. Com- ments like this are typical of discourse responses made. "I don't know personal background but they usually don't have money to go out and buy lots of clothes. They are not the popular girls.” Forty-eight of the seventy-nine girls who said there were some girls whodid not dress right named one or more girls. Twenty—four of the upper social class group members said they did not know names or refused to give names of the girls who did not dress right, as is shown in the illus— tration on the following page. There were twenty-one girls named as not dressing right (Table 19). Of these twenty-one girls only two were placed in the contradictory position of being mentioned as best dressed and popular. Two other girls named as not dressed right were mentioned as best dressed. They were named by one and two girls, respectively. Two of the girls who were named as not dressing right were mentioned eleven times. Fifteen of the girls were mentioned four or less times. Of the girls mentioned as not dressing right, eight were upper social class group members, two middle social class group members, eight lower social class group members, and three were lower social class isolates. Both of the girls who were mentioned eleven times were from lower social class, one was a group member and the other an isolate. A 83 moH sH sm H mH oH sH mH mHmpoe m H m o o H o H mooMHomH mH H z o m m m H mnoQEmz mocha mmmHo HmHoom omzoq «H m m o o m m o mopmHOmH SN MH mH H HH HH 3H MH mooosmz goons mmmHo HMHoom Load: mHmpoa mmsmz ozmHm Hoonom scope oswz mHnHw 039 mHon Hpr mmeommpmo zoox oommmoq mmEmz m>mc o>H$ on once moo: 039 moo moowpamoc< bloom mooxgo>m comsoom cosmz omsmz omEmz HmHoom com H pcmsoce mmmHu HmHoom pcme onmmopQ ooz m< omEmz meHm mo mmHoowopmu omooamom .panp mmomo poo 06 0:3 wHLHm mop moHEmo Op moompdmoom HmHOOm com mmmHo HmHoom mo QOprHoommtxuc>o(DO\OChC>HCDC>OHpmHom 90:00 ocoHpm MHmm quHmm mpcmmwm mmeowmpmo oz 02 no monHnHm mom Hpr woodpamoo< HmHoom pom moHLowoomu omQOQmmm mmmHo HMHoom .UmmHmmo mH onfipoHo mo Hm>opddm omonz Hm: uoH>HocH go onEmo 0o moompoooom HmHoom pom mmeo HmHQOm mo COHpmHoomm¢uu.mm mHQmB 99 In response to parents‘ approval the following state- ments are typical. ”I feel they know what is best for me. If it suits them, it suits me. We usually have the same " "My parents must approve or else they wouldn't buy taste. it if they didn't approve.” Comments regarding peer group acceptance and conformity were much like this. "Friends wouldn‘t accept you if you didn‘t wear clothes like them or like what they liked." "After all I have to meet their requirements in order to be a part of the group. They do have certain standards by which one is expected to dress.” The reasons given by 30 per cent of the girls for wanting the approval of the individuals chosen (whether parents or peers) was that they had good taste. One—fourth of the girls said that the approval of their clothing by others would be of help in acceptance. This categorical breakdown of why approval is desired is given in Table 24 on the following page. Seventy-four per cent of the girls said their mothers made suggestions about the clothes worn to school (Appendix B, Question 25). This tabulation is given on page 101, at the top of the page. Data suggest that an adolescent‘s mother has a great influence on her clothing and appearance. Of the seventy— eight girls who said their mothers made suggestions, fifty— two said they followed her suggestions and twenty—two 100 on w H m o OH mm mm S m m mHmpoe m H o o o o m H o O H mopmHomH mH o o H o H m m m o H mnmnsmz axons mwMHo HmHoom mozoq NH H H o H H m 3 H o o mmpmHomH SS 3 o H m m cm mm d m : mpmpEoz QSOLG mmeo HmHoom p006: . N 0 I m.0 a w. m w. .w aw. no. o m... G 3. Tom 1 m _L m. .A a a W IO 9 U moHLommpmo W. W. J m WED. m dw Ou Is u X1 woomoomoo< . a . M.. n m. a as m. was .22..§ o .L o u u s .4 0.. con n mmmHo HmHoom u H a S S O 1 U. D. 1 s u u .4 e a e a e O 0. TL S M S I. U) oHpowoomo oncogmom .copHmmc mH Hm>opadm SS3 0p woodpdmoom HwHoom ocm mmmHo HmHoom mo COHomHoomm m as Social Class 8 83 and Social 2 g a) 8 Clg Acceptance o .p .H 0 0 :40 Categories 3 .2 {3, 2:03 '3') 2% m p o 44m mm 43: o o. o >s. 0 001 m H O -H (Dd (DC 2 r4 9 p c :40 om> m m E Q m p QQ Ho «x .p o Q. m *4 ECL mr4 (3m 0 <2 d a. m H4: mo 22 E Upper Social Class Group Members 34 21 18 5 l4 4 21 117 Upper Social Class Isolates 8 6 l 2 2 l l 21 Lower Social Class Group Members 7 5 3 l 4 O 3 23 Lower Social Class Isolates 2 l 2 l l O 2 9 Totals 51 33 24 9 21 5 27 170 104 One girl summed up the attitude of the girls very well as she said, "Generally if she is your best friend you spend so much time together that people associate the two of you in their mind. If she were to dress poorly, they would judge me as approving of this and accordingly I would fall into the category of a poorly dressed person." Social Class Responses Referring to Whether Others Judge and Social You by Manner Best Friend Dresses Acceptance I Don't No Best Categories No Yes Know Friend Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 50 26 l O 77 Isolates 6 4 l l 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 6 6 O O 12 Isolates 5 O O O 5 Totals 67 36 2 l 106 Summary There were a predominance of appearance comments to all the I'appearance questions” but discourse comments were made to nearly all the "appearance questions." It seems significant that discourse comments are continually being made, even to ”appearance questions.” Money was a frequent discourse response in this section. Chapter III had more discourse responses than appearance references concerning 105 Table 26.--Association of social class and social acceptance to why others judge you by manner best friend dresses. Response Categories >3 :1... Social Class 0 .0 3 (333% and Social E3 cg M) 3 0mg Acceptance CD: 0.4 m§ £18 a ‘3 g .3 and Social g5 82 E;$T38 c: 8 0 Acceptance <1) 00 :11 <1) :8 o 2 '33) c5 8 Categories 3 g a £3 E 0 9 <2 Q <11 Ca 0 2 Upper Social Class Group Members 5 38 3 31 O 77 Isolates 4 O 7 0 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 0 5 O 7 O 12 Isolates 1 1 O 2 l 5 Totals 7 48 3 47 l 106 There were only ten appearance responses but several discourse responses for the reasons for their acceptance or rejection of Jean. Discourse responses given were ”depends on personality” or "depends on kind of person" and ”accept ' Giving her but give suggestions about combinations later.' suggestions about combinations is technically discourse about appearance. Table 27 shows these appearance and discourse responses. When the girls were asked if the group would agree with their decision of accepting or rejecting Jean, thirty—six of the seventy-six girls who said they would accept her felt that 113 ONH mm mH om SH moH mm S m 0H0poe m z o o H m d o H 0000H00H 000Ho H0H000 p030H :H m N N N NH NH O O 0L0QE0E ozopm 000H0 H0H000 H030H MH 0 H m o NH NH o o 0000H00H 000Ho H0H000 H000: mm mm NH mN 3H SS mm S N 0009508 doopw 000H0 H0H000 L0QQD i N TN 1&0 OG Tm N 10 HN O O e 9 a 3 Tue 0 O ULTL Tro 1 1H dd .0 1 so J1 e H 0.. sq. its 9 H 101 :01 _.L 8 J DU 9 U T.. 3 U; n+0 S S S u D J D. S S 10 a w % mws was w .w.0 0 00Hsom0000 . l nus ow Hm um .9 mm m. 008000000... 0 s A % m0+ m H0Hoom 0:0 s m. m u a $08 H380 O u 4 S u p S 0095000HQ 00:090000< .00000HUIHH03 U000 uoncoo poo 0H 0:0 NH adopw Och 0:00:00 0 wchH>cH on 00Q0000000 H0H000 com 000H0 H0H000 00 000200000 0005000Ho 0cm 00:0900000 mo :0H00H0000<11.SN 0H909 114 the group of which they were a member would not (Table 28). The proportion of isolates who felt they would accept Jean but that group would not was higher than the group members who felt they would but the group would not. This may sug- gest that isolates are eager to have friends and will accept a new girl even though she does not conform to peer—group norms. Forty-eight of the seventy—six girls felt that the group would agree with the decision to accept Jean. There were very few responses related to reasons for group agreeing or disagreeing with decisions to accept Jean, as is shown below: Response Categories Social Class 0ts Hts ccs E +> 8‘ 3 .3 and Social 537:4 (532 +3 5388 — 8 c: 0 Acceptance 0o 00 m 0 0 o 88 c: gas) 8 Categories & .2 3* .2 Q 5% o 8 B <11 C1 <1: C: H z D Upper Social Class Group Members 3 9 O l O 64 77 Isolates 1 l 2 O O 8 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 0 1 O O O 11 12 Isolates O 2 0 O l 2 5 Totals 4 l3 2 l l 85 106 Forty-two per cent of the girls felt that other groups would not agree with their group and accept Jean. This feeling seemed to be stronger with both upper and lower social class members than with upper and lower social class isolates (Table 29). 115 Table 28.--Association of social class and social acceptance to group agreement or disagreement with individual decision on acceptance. Response Categories 4—3 4D .. .. .. >, ... .. as 0.0 w . Social Class 6400 r049 g g and Social 39*" 5:: m twp 3 Acceptance 33.3% §§03 < (t 2 8 .4 a 04> 0 Categories 0*45 mew) :3Q :13 m g s o 5 0 00) 0.4 #’ o 0 0.03 0.00 pa) £45+D — p .H L40 s4013 >434: H Upper Social Class Group Members 26 4 35 10 2 O 77 Upper Social Class Isolates 6 O 4 O 2 0 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 2 O 8 2 O O 12 Lower Social Class Isolates 2 O 1 l O l 5 Totals 36 4 48 13 4 l 106 116 Table 29.—-Ass0ciation of social class and social acceptance to other groups agreement or disagreement with own groups decision on acceptance. Response Categories (D (D n n, 3 ;3+> 0+: 0 8.2.: 8.0% 2% 93 Social Class :0 :0 0 00 b0 and Social 8551». 8:653 (:32 4:15 3 Acceptance ”<2 (50:92 s. a2 8 0) Categories $.po ma 0:: 03 :50 M Q 0--w 0-20 s 0H 0 a new: no 3 ~Pm pap - o 0 acme woo 00 000 c a H 0404 OHH» «0 ~30 0 <3 0 «:30: «:3 :30 0 Lu 0 0 Q +1 0000 000: 00 000 o 0 23<23 2339+ >+434: H z E—« Upper Social Class Group Members 35 14 4 23 l 0 77 Upper Social Class Isolates 3 2 1 4 2 0 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 6 3 2 l 0 0 12 Lower Social Class Isolates l l 0 2 0 l 5 Totals 45 30 7 30 3 l 106 117 More of the girls gave appearance type of response as their reasons for their acceptance and other group not accepting Jean, as is shown below: Response Categories 8 0 8 (1) Social Class C 0 c 0 0 Q and Social g5 EH: gag; 02 is 8 .33 ACCEptarf-CE 0o 0 o (1188 0 2%) 88 :3 3 Categories Q 0 Q 0 E C1: 0 g -H Q H o m 0 E4 <2 Q < Q 0 H Z Upper Social Class Group Members 29 24 18 4 2 O 77 Isolates 4 3 3 2 O O 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 5 3 3 O l O 12 Isolates 3 l O O O l 5 Totals 45 29 22 6 3 1 106 Appearance reasons given were that ”some judge only on dress" or ”some are more interested in appearance.” Discourse re~ sponses indicate that the reasons for group agreement or dis- agreement focused on the feeling that every one has a differ- ent idea. Nearly one-third of the discourse responses referred to the fact that the popular group would not accept Jean on the basis of her clothing (Table 30). Comments made were much like this. ”The very popular groups are too‘snobby’to accept anyone who does not make the best kind of appearance.” Others indicated, ”1 think the 1kids' from Towar Gardens would accept her in spite of her poor taste.” 118 ®OH Hm mH : mN m m m mNH w: H NH ON N: : 0H0009 m m O O H O O H m m O O O N O 0000H00H 000H0 H0H000 H030H NH m H O 3 O O H 0H 3 O N a o O 0H0QE0E 05000 000H0 H0H000 H030H NH 0 H N m O O O NH O O O H 3 H 0000H00H 000H0 H0H000 0000b SS mm MH N mH m a m mm :m H OH mH om m 0003808 050mm 000H0 H0H000 0000: I N Md W eHIHTQEHoG Tm N no OSBeOAESSN o 0 on. e uA DA see 30 o o u. 00 us1 uo Io 1 ud x. 1009 ta d .1 a 00014 .011 e H .n is apiasee as e 0 as see 00 s? TL 8 0.3L IA 0A OSJ au TL 0 W I. DJ. J 3.0 s s e HS 90 o u1e an. s m e um s of e d qu n GU u 98 SS . 0A BB T... Sh L O 0 OD ES 8 Them .0 8 15A UN Sp qo wmflhowwuwmo u ans 8 I o .00 "u 0 I. o as t;L .. 0.. a m 00...... . .0 .00 .0. .0... 0.0.0008. a an .. .. 0.... a 0... .0.. 0 .0.. a 00.000. .0 W a u u e nmw w. u 000HO HmHoom u Tu _ 0.. J9 nA 03 S _ _ a 00H5000HQ 00:0h0000< .00Q0000000 co :0HOH000 00Sosw Q30 L0H; 0:0500n000H0 no 0c0E00pww 00zopw 00:00 00 00o0000000 H0H000 0:0 000H0 H0H000 00 000C0000H 0005000H© 0:0 0020000000 m0 :0H00H000009 00 0000300 0 000 0000000EH 0H 0H 093 00 0000000000 H0H000 000 000H0 H0H000 00 000000000 0005000H0 000 0000000000 00 00H00H0000<::.Hm 0H90B 122 The discourse responses indicated that it was important to conform and it was easier to adjust if like others. Twenty of the ninety-one discourse responses referred to the fact that it was important for Michelle to have white socks only if she thought it was. These discourse responses are found in Table 31. The responses of those who did not consider bobby socks important were nearly all appearance only, and tabu- lations can be seen below: Response Categories Social Class Both Did and Social Appearance Not Acceptance Appearance Discourse and Answer Categories Only Only Discourse No Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 15 6 4 52 77 Isolates 7 O O 5 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 8 O 1 3 12 Isolates 3 O O 2 5 Totals 33 6 5 62 106 The girls who said that socks were not important indi- cated that socks do not make so much difference if they go with the outfit. Nearly one-third of the appearance responses indicated that she might start a fad. This information is found in Table 32. Of the girls who said socks were not im- portant, only six made discourse responses (Table 32). These 123 0: 0m 0 0 0 mm 0 m m m 00 m0 :0 000000 0 m o o o 0 o 0 o o m 0 0 00000000 00000 H0H000 00309 O m H O O G O H O O m m N 0009E0E 0:00m 000H0 H0H000 00300 m 0 O O H m H O H O z N H 0000H00H 000H0 H0H000 0000: mm 00 0 0 m 0m 0 0 0 m m 0 00 0000005 0So0m 000H0 H0H000 00003 N SQ Ithd L NHJSO ME 00 00 N IS Wm 0 UL90 we WI. 0 O OU.1. U..n.. n O 9 MO 1 000 dfa.dnu n1 Qanq er“ 1 00 £0 000 E H a 00s TL? 9 H e .0 u a s 000 T. 8 Ha Jo Tu T a U1 M S is s s 00D.n1u 000 s s 008 an T1 M 1 1 d ecu 900 ET» .d Dflu mm“ %. W m WWW m I ET. 1? O 0. .0 . 00 . 0 m so 11 II u Hu me E H 1 1a 0000 000 s u 01 o s 000 00 no 00 u 009000000< "u e 700 no t : 0%. H A s s Ma n o n W 1 H0H00m 090 S 1.0 4+ . m 211 N. J 1 000H0 H0Hoom .09 s I H nvu 01 e .b. 1 0005000H9 009000000< .0H0Hm 00900 090 0xHH 0x000 09909 0>09 00 0900300 0 000 0900000EH 009 0H 0H 093 00 0090000000 H0H000 090 000H0 H0Hoo0 00 000900000 0005000H0 090 0090000000 00 90H00000003E E r-IO 0C: CLO) 4—3 0 90 00 0 H0 00 am: 0 z m< Em m 3< mo 90 E Upper Social Class Group Members 24 8 19 13 9 8 3 84 Upper Social Class Isolates 4 3 2 l O l l 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 6 l 1 4 O O O 12 Lower Social Class Isolates 5 O O O O O l 6 Totals 39 12 22 18 9 9 5 114 126 Response Categories Social Class Both and Social Appearance Acceptance Appearance Discourse and No Categories Only Only Discourse Comments Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 21 2O 31 5 77 Isolates 3 l 4 4 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 7 2 2 1 l2 Isolates 1 l l 2 5 Totals 32 24 38 12 106 The girls who said ”none” gave the appearance response that socks were not important. The appearance responses of those who felt it would make a difference indicated that clothing and socks were important and the socks would make a difference to Michelle‘s acceptance. The upper social class group members and upper social isolates emphasized this (Table 34). One—half of the discourse responses indicated that it was important to conform (Table 34). All but two of these comments were made by upper social class group members. Their response again focuses attention on the importance placed on conformity by upper social class group members. 127 mOH m: m N Hm OH MH 9 OHH mm wN m 0 mm 0H00oB m m O H O O O H m m O O H H 0000H00H 000H0 HOH000 00309 NH w H O H H H O MH m H O m m 0009E0E 05000 000H0 H0H000 00300 NH 0 O H H H N O NH m m O N N 0000H00H 000H0 H0H000 0000: m0 0N N O mN w OH m ow :N 0N m m 0N 0009E0E 0:00m 000H0 H0H000 00009 L N 0 d U 3T. 341 Ttd T. .d L N .113 0.0.. W :8 o o 41 008 n10 q we 0 I o 00 001 o 2 mo .1 q Tfidud 8U daaou 1. do a A .00 0L 8 J B U 0 J U. J O T: u TL 8 J U.. 8 J. S S s U. D. J1. M .. 1H 3 O S 8 1I. M .1 d 3,. 00.0.. 00...... .0 .0 0. ... .0 . m 01I. 1 .TL T+000Tt u w+ q 1 009 00H0ow0000 % 0T0 w“ 1.m Ma N. no "N 0090000000 8 Hri m n0 A 9 s n w .1 H0Hoom 090 ”mm fl 9 1. 000H0 H0H00m . I H 1 e 0.0, 0005000H9 009000000< .0H0Hw 00900 090 0xHH 09000 09909 00m 009 0000 0900500 090 0H 0900090 090 000 0900000 00 0090000000 H0H000 090 000H0 H0Hoo0 00 000900000 0005000H0 090 0090000000 00 90H00H00000H0 0909 00005 000 0900000 00 0090000000 H09000 090 000H0 H09000 00 000900000 000500090 090 0090000000 00 9090090000<|I.mm 0H90B 131 Responses Referring to Ranking Importance of Social Class Expensive Clothes or Neat Hair and Social I Acceptance Expensive Neat Both as Don't N0 Categories Clothes Hair Important Know Comments Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 5 6M 6 l l 77 Isolates 2 10 O O O 12 Lower Social Class Group Members O 12 O O O 12 Isolates O 3 2 O O 5 Totals 7 89 8 l l 106 Fifty—nine per cent of the girls would like to have Lynn as their girl friend. However, twenty-two of the girls were uncertain and did not know whether they would like Lynn as their girl friend. One—fourth of the lower social class group members and one—fifth of the upper social class group members did not want her as their friend. All of the ”I don’t know.” This may indicate a isolates said "yes" or desire on the part of isolates to have friends or suggests that they do not place the same emphasis on appearance as girls who already have their established cliques. The tab- ulations for wanting someone like Lynn as a friend are given on the following page; Social Class Responses Referring to Whether or Not One and Social Would Like to Have Someone with Expensive Acceptance Clothes ani Messy Hair as a Girl Friend Categories No Yes I Don't Know No Comments Total; Upper Social Class Group Members 16 41 18 2 77 Isolates O 11 l O 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 3 8 l O 12 Isolates O 3 2 O 5 Totals 19 63 22 2 106 Of 106 responses to comments about having Lynn as a friend, fifty—two were discourse only which indicates that they thought appearance by itself was not enough to form Judgment on. Another factor which should be pointed out is that Lynn was not a ”new” girl like the other girls in situational stories. The figures for wanting Lynn as a friend are illustrated below: Response Categories Social Class Both and Social Appearance Did Not Acceptance Appearance Discourse and Make Categories Only Only Discourse Comments Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 1 44 l 31 77 Isolates l 3 l 7 12 Lower Social Class Group Members O 5 l 6 l2 Isolates 2 O l 2 5 Totals 4 52 A A6 106 133 Table 36 gives only six appearance responses in regard to wanting Lynn as a friend. Thirty—nine out of sixty—four discourse responses indicated ”it would depend on personality” whether they wanted someone like Lynn as a friend. Nearly one-half of the upper social class members placed this emphasis on personality. There were fifteen discourse responses about appearance in reference to giving Lynn sug- gestions about her hair (Table 36). Sixty—five per cent of the girls would invite Lynn to ”run around” with their group, although only 59 per cent would like to have her as a friend. This distinction may indicate that they would like to have Lynn in group but would not care to have someone like Lynn as a best friend. Twenty- two of the girls did not know whether they wanted to invite her to join their group. Twenty-seven per cent of upper social class group members and 25 per cent of lower social class group members would not invite Lynn into their group, as is illustrated below: Social Class Responses Referring to Inviting a Student and Social into Group if She Has Expensive Clothes Acceptance and Messy Hair Categories No Yes I Don‘t Know No Comments Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 21 48 7 l 77 Isolates l 9 2 O 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 3 9 O O 12 Isolates l 3 l O 5 Totals 26 69 10 l 106 C). 009 00 0 09 9 mm 0 90 00 9 9 0 090009 O m O H O H H d m O H O 00009009 000H0 H09000 00309 OH OH O 0 O H H O N O O H 0009909 05000 000H0 H09000 00390 m9 0 0 9 o m o 99 0 9 o 9 00009009 00090 H09000 00009 00 mm m 0 9 9m 0 00 00 0 0 0 000000s 05000 000H0 H09000 0000: Tu N O D Li. G d C I L N O S 8.00 H I O O bl? T... Inge e a T0 0 O 1 tutu TM 30 V5 TO 3. U. A 0.0. 0040 I. d 1 U. AT. T 4 .L. 00 H 8 e a .4 a S e N 90 H 3 a l 9 U. 1 Q0 0L 9 I J O U T_. TL 8 00 m... 00 U. S S S ”V 9.9. U n... D S 3 mm )0} a n S 0 S a d 0 w E H w. o nieMw. M“ 0090000000 WU .L. T? O u 04..” 0. TLJQ O . .1 . . .. s w 1T0.4u s H 070 n 009000000< e s u. .A a 09090 .L H09000 090 s 0+ 091 s sx. n. 2 2 I. I. dN 000H0 90900U o H as a u e U .0 I. S _ «47 VA 000500099 0090000000 .090900 H090 0 00 0909 90009 090 00900H0 0>90900x0 9093 090 :0900 0990903 009 00 0990903 000 0900000 00 0090000000 H09000 090 000H0 H09000 00 000900000 000500090 090 0090000000 00 9090090000<|:.Om 0990B 135 When asked if everyone in group would agree with their decisions, 43 per cent said group would agree and accept her. Previously, 65 per cent of the girls had indi- cated that they would invite her into group. The number who said that the group would agree and not accept Lynn is ap- proximately the same in the situational stories involving both Jean and Lynn. Twenty~seven per cent of the girls said they would accept her but their group would not (Table 37). Sixty-eight per cent referred to discourse only regarding group agreement or disagreement with individual decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair. Of the appearance responses made, a greater portion were made by upper social class members. They seem to respond consistently ani be more aware of clothing and appearance. As in previous situations, four lower social class isolates referred to discourse only, as is shown below: Response Categories Social Class Both and Social Appearance Acceptance Appearance Discourse and No Categories Only Only Discourse Comments Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 10 #5 l7 5 77 lsolates l 9 l l l2 Lower Social Class Group Members O 10 l l 12 Isolates l 4 O O 5 Totals 12 68 19 7 106 136 Table 37.-—Association of social class and social acceptance to groups agreement or disagreement with individual decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair. Response Categories 4.) 4:0 0 43 4—’ OH on Q) " "‘ Z 5 Cl) '00 £2; 2:; 0 8 332.: Social Class gth H533 00 0 and Social 50» 5:50 0 00> 3 00m: oc>0 <10 0 0 Acceptance 300 33;” CL 2? 9 +3 _ ' ‘ 0 Categories 001.? 0.9 88. :59 0 g 5 o :5 .. 00 OH 0 E 093 O .04.» (30 La :5 - E (0 $931) 59 Q) Q. C.) (D O C} O H (50% L5®® «0 «3 o O 0 «'90) «.0 o m U) Q +4 0009 o 00 00 0 0 O O 2934 AZ£3 >43 H 2 E0 Upper Social Class Group Members 23 3 28 14 7 2 77 Upper Social Class Isolates A O 7 O 1 O 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 1 IO 8 3 O O 12 Lower Social Class Isolates 1 O 3 l O O 5 Totals 29 3 46 18 8 2 106 137 When the girls were asked why they felt this way, appearance responses indicated that they thought some of the girls were more interested in appearance. ”Some girls judge a girl just on appearance” was the manner in which one girl phrased it. Reference was also made to the fact that one could not expect to be accepted if not neat. One girl stated it in this way, ”Just as actions speak louder than words, so do looks” (Table 38). Discourse responses were nearly equally divided between the two responses, ”everyone has same idea” and ”everyone has different idea“ (Table 38). Nineteen discourse responses that indicated judgment on personality not clothing. Fourteen responses indicated that the girls could accept Lynn and give her suggestions for improvement. Of 106 girls, sixtywone said that other groups would not agree with their group, thirty-two said that although they accepted, others would not; and twenty—nine said they would not accept, but others would (Table 39). All the categories of social class and social acceptance were about equal in percentage of responses to the above comments. More than one—half of the responses were discourse only concerning the reasons girls felt other groups would or would not do the same as their group, as is shown by the figures on page 140. 138 HNH Om :H m m 0H mm mm :0 H0 0 0 HH 0H 0H0009 m H O O H H H H m 3 O O H O 0000H009 000H0 H09000 00309 MH 0 H O H 0 0 H HH OH O O H O 0009909 05000 000H0 H09000 00309 mH m m H O m H m m n O O. O m 0000H009 000H0 H09000 0000: mm mm OH H m 0H mm 0H 00 o: 0 m m JH 0009909 05000 000H0 H09000 0000b 70 N Tonk V I .df I 3 I0 3 L N IN IH NVD .E a S o 0 Qt. O J an DA 8A 0 0 SS méeoeuso 3 JA 0 1:. as 7090 0+ Bdtéuouolw E H e 90 S SS 900 a J 9 H 011 oanieufiaee I e I d U. 09 0A UK I a m; 0 d1 0. S S 08 1 a 90. o 30 S s d 10 1, N ,d dn 00 u u d 03 0010 am... T..o o Jog H I. To a Is 0 JIU PX u; 20 0 g n q 00 00 00 :0 0.. $00038 % M00 J N A e e 0 s 09 3 .00 d_i 009000000< S WU, 0% N. S SS S 1H U N1 mm, Hdfloom U90 0 G 4 00 a 0 0 9. e 00 f $03280 s .0 I0 J __ a _ 99w. 000500099 009000000< .0909 90009 090 00900H0 0>90900x0 9093 0900500 0 00 0090000000 90 90909000 H0509>9099 9093 090900000090 00 090900000 005000 00 0090000000 H09000 090 000H0 H09000 00 000900000 000500090 090 0090000000 00 9090090000<::.wm 0H90B 139 Table 39.-—Association of social class and social acceptance to other groups agreement or disagreement with our groups decision on acceptance of a student with expensive clothes and messy hair. Response Categories r5 ... ... H a) 0 as: as 8 E 8 Social Class 50;: :30 :2 00 0 .- 0031 00‘ 0 and Soc1al La) 09080) <38 5 0 Acceptance 99:» 092293 0 _ 0:: 9 0 Categories 0020+: 0+w09 :30 :30 0 (1% 0- (1)~—r—4 0 0(1) Or—I 4—> E3 9,109 .9950 00 050 — 9 c0 +4150?) ptfijOQ. (so (500. C! O H 0909 O930 «a «30 o O 0 «S 5 «5 o m 0 0 Q 0 OOQ)O <30<00 a)0 00)o o o 2333 2330 >5: 03< H 'z B Upper Social Class Group Members 21 22 ll 15 7 1 77 Upper Social Class Isloates b A 3 O l O 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 5 2 3 2 O O 12 Lower Social Class Isolates 2 l O 1 1 O 5 Totals 32 29 17 18 9 1 106 140 Response Categories Social Class Both and Social Appearance Acceptance Appearance Discourse and No Categories Only Only Discourse Comments Totals Upper Social Class Group Members 12 MO 17 8 77 Isolates O 10 l l 12 Lower Social Class Group Members 1 8 3 O 12 Isolates 1 3 O l 5 Totals 14 61 21 10 106 In explaining why the girls felt this way, 34 per cent of the appearance responses indicated that they felt other girls were more interested in clothing and appearance. Fifteen per cent of appearance responses indicated that some of the girls do not care about appearance. Seven-eighths of the girls responding in this manner were upper social class members. HSome of the groups are sort of messy and would accept her like this” was typical of the comments made (Table MO). Two—thirds of the discourse responses referred to every group having different ideas (Table 40). Reference was made to the fact that the popular group would not accept Lynn. One of the girls said, ”A less popular group would be more apt to accept her than my group.” 141 omH Hm mH s m m 0H 0: mm em : m m w mH mHmpoe m m o H o o o m m a o o o o H mmpmHomfl mmmHo HmHoom meOH NH H o H o m o w mH m o o H o m mmeEmE ozopw mmmHo HMHoom meOH :H m H o o m m @ HH OH o o o o H mmpmHomH mmmHo HmHoom Loam: mm mm HH m m a s :m cs am a m s m :H mnmnsme ozonm mmmHo HwHoom Load: df Md Tga I ”NSOE IV VSNHI BaS % w” mfiwmww Mfiw an“ Ono fieA no OliLX mac OfioBETJ unso 1 BA we J JP ud.Tfie 1 AQd dd 0&1? paw e 8 Se ea smusS .n «in e ”5243 03 neQJO I e a "A 00 OS 1T.H%A I “a Wu JP 1 a I VP S S SH IO v.3 up E 10 S S SS 1i GJGO d .W as aid pu e 2 Via u d ST. ens Vo on+_dlLo mmHmommpmo O T..L 88 TC. .10 0 IS .0 A uu du 8U. SUJ . u Osage iLn lLu Ono “H u Inc qu.d s sac W a mocmpdmoo< S uTa U 39 3, a; eu. S m a 3.4 US uO o G 9 sn 9 AS A do egg 9 d 80 %N WWW HmHomHom s I s e nfim ss as a we I.Auqz+ mmeo HmHoom O G S UJ O GUS u I. _ «we a m...“ Td ‘ 1 .Lb mmpsoomHQ mocmpmmqa< .LHmz %mmmE pew mepOHo m>Hmchxw szz meUSpm m mo mocmpdmoom co COHm nHomo masosw C30 sz3 pcoEmmswmmHo Lo pcmEmmpmm manopw sozpo on mocmpgooom HmHoom ocm mmeo HwHoom 0p mmmCOQmop omszoomHo pow mocmgmmaam mo QOHpmHoommadmit that they would place this importance on 143 clothing. The popular group was often referred to as Judging girls only on appearance and clothing. This may be a correct appraisal since popular girls seemed to be from the upper social class and upper social class girls in this study emphasized conformity and had a high clothing awareness. In addition, the popular girls were the girls also considered to be best dressed by all of the categories of social class and social acceptance. On the other hand, the lower social class isolates seemed to make a stronger reference to discourse only in situational stories. They also referred to discourse only in Chapter III in reference to general acceptance and popu- larity (Questions 1, 3, and 5). The analysis of Chapter IV pointed out that the lower social class isolates did not place as much emphasis on best friend's appearance being a reflection on the individual. All of these factors point to the fact that lower social class isolates may have a lower clothing awareness. CHAPTER VI SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS, AND RECOMMENDATIONS Summarygand Conclusions This exploratory study was carried out to determine the relationship of social class, social acceptance, and behavior related to clothing and appearance. Ninth grade girls of East Lansing High School were selected for this study. Upper and lower social class members and upper and lower social class isolates com- prised the selected group of 106 ninth grade girls from the 154 girls in that grade. East Lansing is an atypical, highly educated, high income, white collar community. How— ever, working class residents of Towar Gardens, an adjoining area, send students to the high school. Thus, East Lansing High School presented a setting of social class extremes. The sample was selected on the basis of a sociometric question and Warner's Index of Status Characteristics. This background information was obtained by an opinionnaire which was portion of a larger study being conducted at Michigan State University at the present time. 144 145 Data were collected by interviewing the selected sample at the East Lansing High School. The structured interview schedule contained open-ended questions pertaining to general acceptance, clothing and acceptance, clothing and self- satisfactions, and clothing confidence. A modified projective technique was also included. The girls were asked to react to stories about the appraisal and acceptance of a new girl ‘in school based on her clothing and appearance. Data pertaining to general acceptance and clothing and appearance were analyzed descriptively for Similiarities and. differences between the independent variables. The variables were upper social class group members, upper social class isolates, lower social class group members, and lower social class isolates. Stone's theoretical framework of appearance and discourse was utilized for the analysis. Appearance has been a neglected element in symbolic interaction. Stone states appearance must be considered in social transaction. It is a part of communication. Stone is one of few who has indicated that "self is established, maintained, and altered in transaction as much by the com- ”1 Stone has munication of appearances as by discourse. provided a vocabulary and framework upon which to build empirical research in the study of appearance. The researcher intended to use the chi square test of significance in the analysis but this was not possible lStone, ”Appearance and the Self," p. 117. 146 because more than 20 per cent of the theoretical frequencies were under five. The results of this study show a general consensus among the upper and lower social class group members and upper and lower social class isolates in many of the responses. These girls were more alike than different. A look at the similarities gives a view of the values, norms, and customs of these ninth grade girls. For example, the following .1 points of agreement existed n the importar ce of clothing and appearance in being accep ed by the girls of the sa ample re- gardless of social class position or social acceptance ategories: 1. There we s a strong consensus that appearance was imp: 5.3:t in acceptance. Appearance re- sponses were frequent in judgment of a new girl. 2. The ch=ract eri stic m st frequently used to describe the pOpula r girls was the appearance V response, ”well iressed. ' s popular were also referred ssed.” The clothing of the . was said to differ from the c].othing of the other girls. The girls named as popular and best dressed were generally upper social class group members. 4. Girls in all categories of social class and social acceptance saw some of the girls as not dressed right A higher percentage of girls who were not i right were from the lower social class. girls were considered to have few friends. Their friends were referred to as not dressing lGordon poir_t s out that dress is a major source of social differentiation because of its high visibility. Gordon, op. cit., p. 114. 147 5. The higher standards of the pOpular group in relation to clothing and appearance were em- phasized throughout the entire interview by all categories of social class and social acceptance. The situational stories as well as the sections on general acceptance and clothing and appearance emphasized the Similiarities of the adolescent girls' opinions. This seems to point out the fact that most of the girls, regardless of social class position or social acceptance category, actually have similar values. There were, however, areas which pointed up differences in viewpoints or values of girls in contrasting social class positions and social acceptance categories. For example: 1. Upper social class girls tended to feel better dressed than lower social class girls. 2. Upper and lower social class isolates did not think they were judged as much by the manner in which their best friend dressed as did the upper and lower social class group members. 3. Upper social class group members seemed to be more aware of clothing and placed a greater emphasis on conformity. A. Lower social class isolates did not seem to be as aware of appearance. Many of their responses even to ”appearance questions” were discourse only. This study was done in the area of social class, social acceptance, and clothing and appearance in adolescent life. This study was exploratory because little knowledge is available about the relationship of these factors. An exploratory study may develop hypotheses and establish priorities for further research.1 The results of this explor- atory research show some possible hypotheses which should be lSelltiz, gig” Op. cit., p. 51. 148 tested by further study. They are: 1. A positive relationship exists between girls referred to as popular and girls referred to as best dressed and social class. 2. An inverse relationship between not dressing right and social class position. 3. Social isolates are more likely than group members to want girls as friends who do not conform to standards or norms of appearance of adolescent culture. Contribution of Study This researcher feels that the main contribution of this study was the analysis of responses to the theoretical framework of appearance and discourse. According to Stone, this framework means that: ”(1) every social transaction must be broken down into at least two analytic components or processes-—appearance and discourse; (2) appearance is at least as important for the establishment and maintenance of the self as is discourse."l This study is of value in its attempts to show appearance in its perspective of symbolic interaction in the teen—age culture. The use of Stone's theoretical framework as a base combined with the use of an interview which allowed free response, put appearance and clothing in proper perspective so that they may be viewed in relation to other elements of the society. Both appearance and discourse references are evident through the entire interview. ”Appearance questions” usually lStone, "Appearance and the Self,” p. 87. 149 received some discourse responses. Discourse references often pertained to having a good personality, being friendly, being nice, and family background criteria. The latter was usually in reference to money or the section of town in which one lived. Even though not placed in Stone's frame of refer- ence, Coleman found the same responses prevalent in the ten schools he studied.1 The appearance responses indicated that clothing and appearance were important in acceptance and a very realistic aspect of the value system. One girl's comments signifies this: "It's just one of the main interests of our school. If you do not dress well, you're just not with it.” If acceptance is important to the adolescent girl, appearance becomes an important element, too. This is revealed by the fact the same girls were viewed as popular and best dressed. Reference was also made to the fact that girls not dressed right did not have many friends. Appearance is important for acceptance in this class of ninth grade girls in the East Lansing High School. It must be kept in mind that this is only one school and that East Lansing is an atypical community in that it has a highly educated, high income, professional, and mobile population. A similar study might well be conducted in a community with a more representative distribution of occupations and social class to determine whether the same emphasis is placed on lColeman, op. cit., p. 37. 150 appearance and discourse. Coleman found that value systems vary from school to school and that ”well-dressed" will have a different meaning in a working class school than in a suburban school.1 However, the consensus of responses of appearance and discourse in this study are in agreement with findings of Coleman about the values of the adolescent culture. This study may be of value to educators and others who work with adolescents because it provides information for increased understanding of the adolescent culture as related to social class, appearance, and acceptance. It places the elements of clothing and appearance in perspec- tive so that they may be viewed in relation to other elements of a society. Suggestions For Further Study The present study has been exploratory research. It has touched upon aspects of appearance and clothing behavior in relation to social class and social acceptance. It needs to be tested for definite proof in other studies. Further research on this phase of clothing and appear- ance might be carried out in these ways: (1) the use of Stone's theoretical framework on a larger population; (2) comparison of data from this study with data from research lIbid. 2 Festinger and Katz, op. cit., p. 74. 151 of a similar nature in a community with a more representa- tive distribution of occupations and social class backgrounds; (3) comparison of data from this study with data from a similar study, with adaptions, administered to adolescent boys; (4) comparison of data from this study with similar research on a high intelligence group; and (5) comparison of data from this study with similar research on social deviants. Methodological Recommendations Several changes could be made to refine the instrument used in the situational stories. A more complete comparison of the situations could have been made if they had all been structured alike. This could have been done in the following ways: (1) All the situational stories should have specified that a new girl was being appraised. Question 32 did not. (2) All of the situational stories could have had a similar question related to individual and group acceptance of each girl in the story. Question 31 did not have any reference to acceptance or rejection of Michelle with colored bobby socks. (3) ”Why do you think so?” should have been asked after all questions pertaining to individual and group acceptance. BIBLIOGRAPHY Anastasi, A. and Miller, S. ”Adolescent Prestige Factors in Relation to Scholastic and Socio—Economic Factors,” Journal of Social Psychology, XXIX (1949), 43-50. Ausubel, David P. Theory and Problems of Adolescent Develop— ment. New York: Grune and Stratton, 1954. Bonney, M. E. ”A Sociometric Study of the Relationship of Some Factors to Mutual Friendships on the Elementary, Secondary and College Levels,” Sociometry, IX (1946), 21-47. 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APPENDIX A 157 158 BACKGROUND INFORMATION OBTAINED FROM ROLE BEHAVIOR STUDYl First, we would like some information about you. 1. Your name , ; last first middle 2. When were you born? Month Day Year 3. How many living brothers and sisters do you have? (Circle the correct number on each line, the 0 if none.) Brothers O l 2 3 4 or more Sisters O l 2 3 4 or more 4. Who contributes most to the financial support of your family? Your father Your mother Some other person (Explain who this person is. For example, llmy brother," "my uncle." 5. How far did this person mentioned above go in school? No schooling Some grade school Graduated from grade school___ Some high school Graduated from high school ___' Some college Graduated from college Don't know Other (explain) 6. What does this person do for a living? (Write in the complete name 9£_tit1e of his or her job, not the company he or she works for.) lWass, op. cit. 10. ll. 12. 13. 159 Describe as accurately as possible what this person makes or does on the job. (For example: he supervises the work of 15 office clerks; he sells from door to door; he operates a farm of 160 acres; etc.) Does any other person contribute to the financial support of your family? Yes No If es, ex lain who. (mother, father, brother, etc.) Wha does his person do? What church do you go to? How many clubs or organizations in school and outside of school do you belong to? None One Two Three Four or more Please list the clubs and organizations you belong to: What is the name and location of the grade school you attended? The people with whom we share secrets and spend most of our time are usually referred to as our ”best friends." Write the names of your two "best girl friends" in the 9th grade in the East Lansing High School. (If you only have one person you consider a ”best friend,‘ write her name only.) 1. 2. If you have more than two ”best girl friends” in the 9th grade, write the other names in the spaces below. 1. 2. If your ”best girl friends" are in another grade or in another school, write their names in the spaces below. Other Grade Other School 1. l. 2. 2. 16O REVISED SCALE FOR RATING OCCUPATIONl Rating Assigned Proprietors to and Occupation Professionals2 Managers Business Men 1 Lawyers, doctors, den- Business Regional and tists,engineers,judges, valued at divisional high-school superinten- $75,000 managers of large dents,veterinarians, and over financial and ministers(graduated from industrial enter- divinity school),chemists, prises etc.with post-graduate . training,architects 2 High-school teachers, Business Assistant managers trained nurses,chiropi- valued at and office and de- dists,chiropractors, $20,000 partment managers undertakers,ministers to $75,000 of large businesses, (some training), news— assistants-to ex- paper editors,librarians_ ecutives,etc. (graduate) 3 Social workers,grade- Business All minor officials school teachers,0ptome- valued at of businesses trists,librarians (not $5,000 to graduate),undertaker's 20,000 assistants,ministers (no.training) A Business valued at $2,000 to 5,000 5 Business valued at $500 to 2,000 6 Business valued at less than $500 7 lWarner, op. cit., pp. 140-141. 161 REVISED SCALE (Continued) Clerks and Kindred Protective and Workers etc. Manual Workers Service Workers Farmers Certified Public Gentle— Accountants men Farmers Accountants, sales- Large men of real estate, farm of insurance, post— owners, masters farm owners Auto salesmen,bank Contractors Clerks and cashiers, postal clerks, secre- taries to executives, supervisors of rail- road, telephone,etc. justices of the peace Stenographers,book- Factory Foremen, Dry cleaners, keepers,rura1 mail electricians, butchers, clerks,railroad p1umbers,carpen— Sheriffs,railroad ticket agents,sales ters,watchmakers, engineers,and people in dry goods (Own business conductors stores,etc. Dime store clerks, Carpenters, plumb- Barbers, firemen, Tenant hardware salesmen, ers,electricians butcher's appren- Farmers beauty operators, (apprentice),time tices,practical telephone operators keepers,linemen, nurses,policemen, telephone or tele- seamstresses,cooks graph,radio repair- in restaurants, men,medium skill bartenders workers Moulders, semi- Baggage men,night Small skilled workers, policemen and tenant assistants to carpenters,etc. watchmen,taxi and farmers truck drivers,gas station attendants, waitresses in restaurants Heavy labor, Janitors,scrub- Migrant migrant worker, women,newsboys farm odd-job men, laborers miners 2Professors and associate professors were given an occupational rating of one; assistant professors and instructors were given an occupational rating of two; graduate assistants, secondary and elementary teachers were given an wcrunztional rating of three. .A 162 SCALE FOR RATING DWELLING AREAl l--Very high. In Jonesville, as in most towns and small cities, this includes but one area. Residents, aware that this area has a high status reputation, remark that "no one can live here unless his family has lived in the com- munity for at least three generations.” The best houses in town are located in such an area. The streets are wide and clean and have many trees. - 2--High. Dwelling areas felt to be superior and well above average but a little below the top. There are fewer mansions and pretentious houses in such districts than in the first. However, the chief difference is one of reputation. 3--Above average. A little above average in social reputation and to the eye Of the scientific Observer. This is an area Of nice but not pretentious-houses. The streets are kept clean and the houses are well cared for. It is knownnas a "nice place to live" but "society doesn't live here. . “ 4——Average. These are areas of workingmen's homes which are small and unpretentious but neat in appearance. In these areas live ”the respectable people in town who don't amount to much but never give anybody any trouble.” 5--Below average. All the areas in the group are un- desirable because they are close to factories, or because they include the business section of town, or are close to the railroad. There are more run—down houses here because there are peOple living in these areas who ”don't know how to take care Of things." They are more congested and hetero- geneous than those above. It is said that "all kinds of people live here, and you don't know who your neighbors will e. 6--Low. These areas are run—down and semi-slums. The houses are set close together. The streets and yards are Often filled with debris and in some of the smaller towns like Jonesville, some of the streets are not paved. 7—-Very low. Slum districts, the areas with the poorest reputation in town, but only because Of unpleasant and unhealthy geographical positions-—for example, being near a garbage dump Or a swamp4-but also because of the social stigma attached to those who live there. ‘The houses are little better than shacks. The people are referred to by such terms as "squatters along the canal," and are said to be lazy, Shiftless, ignorant, and immoral. This general reputation is assigned to most people living in such sections regardless of their abilities or accom- plishments. lWarner, Op. cit., pp. 153—154. 163 REVISED SCALE FOR RATING HOUSE TYPEl l-—Exce11ent houses. This includes only houses which are very large Single—family dwellings in good repair and sur— rounded by large lawns and yards which are landscaped and well cared for. These houses have an element of ostentation with respect to size, architectural style, and general condition of yards and lawns. 2--Very good houses. Roughly, this includes all houses which do not quite measure up to the first category. The primary difference is one of size. They are slightly smaller, but still larger than utility demands for the average family. 3—-Good houses. In many cases they are only slightly larger than utility demands. They are more conventional and less ostentatious than the two higher categories. 4—-Average houses. One—and-a-half to two—story wood— frame and brick single-family dwellings. Conventional style, with lawns well cared for but not landscaped. 5--Fair houses. In general, this includes houses whose condition is not quite as good as those houses given a 4 rating. It also includes smaller houses in excellent condition. 6-—Poor houses. In this, and the category below, Size is less important than condition in determining evaluation. Houses in this category are badly run-down but have not deteriorated sufficiently that they cannot be repaired. They suffer from lack of care but do not have the profusion of debris which surrounds houses in the lowest category. 7--Very poor houses. All houses which have deteriorated so far that they cannot be repaired. They are considered un- healthy and unsafe to live in. All buildings not originally intended for dwellings, shacks, and over-crowded buildings. The halls and yards are littered with junk, and many have an extremely bad Odor. 1 Warner, op. cit., pp. 149-150. 164 .me .Q «.pHo .mo «sossmzH -- m m m . . . more onHHozo m u: z z . . . . ooze omSOm : d I: m . . mEoocH mo moszom m m m In . . . . COprQ5660 mchmHz wcmeHz monmHz mEooCH mchmHz xOUQH mph< mcHHHOBQ come mmsom mo oohzom COHmeSOoo CH com: on Op OHpmHsopomsmso mSHMDm wchmHz OHpmHMOpomsmno Ono co mmsHpmm pH bomb on Op mpszoz H .oHpmHLOpompmno oco co wchmHE one come cons com: on Op ..o.m.H mom mpanmz ESEHon AP PENDIX B 165 166 C O N F I D E N T I A L I N T E R V I E W* What this is all about The youth of a community are in many respects, the most impor- tant element of our society. There is a great deal written and said about this age group, but much Of it is not based on facts. ' This study is intended to supply important information about the Opinions young people have about themselves. I need your help for without it this study cannot be done. You can help best by answering the questions as clearly and carefully as possible. I would like your honest reaction to what adolescents think. You may think about the question and take your time in answering it. There are no right or wrong answers. We want to know what your opinions are. Different people will have different Opinions. This information is confidential. Your name will never be used and no one you know will know what you have said. *Appendix B reduced to one-third of original interview schedule which allowed adequate Space for recording responses. Now 167 I would like to begin by asking you some questions about what would happen if a new girl came into your grade at school. 1. IO. 11. 12. If a new girl came to East Lansing High School and wanted to get in with the popular girls, what would be the best way to do this? What characteristics do you think a new girl would be judged on? What characteristics do you use in choosing a friend? Do you think it is difficult to make friends in East Lansing High School: No Yes If yes, why do you think so? With the group you go around with, what are some things which are important. to do in order to be popular? What are the characteristics of the most popular girl in the ninth grade? Who is the most popular girl in the ninth grade? Does the clothing Of the popular girls in the ninth grade differ from the clothing of the other girls? __No __ Yes If yes, how does it differ? ' DO you think clothing influences a girl's popularity at East Lansing High School? No Yes Why or why not? How do your clothes compare with other girls in school?__ How does the group you go around with compare in dress to other groups at school? What are the characteristics that are necessary to be the best dressed girl in school? Arlene Bjorngaard Michigan State University — TCRA 1962 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 168 Who do you think is the best dressed girl in the ninth grade? Is there anything about yourself you would like to Change? NO Yes. If yes, what would you change? Anything else? DO you think you would make a different impression on others if you could make these changes? NO Yes, If yes, why do you feel this way? If yes, do you think it would be easier to make friends if you made these changes? NO Yes. If yes, why do you feel this way? Whose approval Of your clothing means the most to you? Why? Do some clothes give you more self-confidence than others? NO Yes. If yes, which ones? Why? DO you think that the manner in which your best friend dresses is a reflection on you? By that I mean, do others judge you by the way your best friend dresses? ___ No ___ Yes. If yes, why do you feel this way? Are there any girls in the ninth grade who do not dress right? NO Yes. If yes, why do you think their clothes are not right? How would you describe these girls who do not dress right? Can you tell me more about them? Would you mind telling me who they are? DO they have many friends? NO Yes DO you have any friends that are not dressed right? No Yes. If yes, what's wrong with the way they dress? Arlene Bjorngaard Michigan State University - TCRA 1962 20. 21. 169 Have you ever come to school dressed differently from the other girls? No Yes. If yes, how did you feel when you were dressed differently from everyone at school? If you heard that everyone on "dress-up" day was going to wear a sweat shirt to school and at the last minute they changed their minds but you were not notified and wore one to school; what would you do when you saw them dressed differently? How would you feel? Now I am going to ask you several questions about yourself. 22. 23. 24. 25. Are you usually satisfied with your general appearance? Yes No. If no, why not? Are you usually satisfied with your hair? Yes No. If no, why not? Are you usually satisfied with your complexion? Yes NO. If no, why not? Does your mother make suggestions about the clothes you wear to school? NO Yes. If yes, do you follow her suggestions? If yes, what kind Of suggestions does She make? I would like you to answer the next four questions with one of these responses. (Give interviewee card with responses.) 26. Do you enjoy wearing your clothes if your friends don't like them? - Almost always Often Sometimes Seldom Never Arlene Bjorngaard Michigan State University - TCRA 1962 27. 28. 29. 170 Do you feel ill at ease at school because of your Clothing? Almost always Often Sometimes Seldom Never DO others compliment you on the way you dress at school? Almost always Often Sometimes Seldom Never Have you felt embarrassed about the clothes you wear to school? Almost always Often Sometimes Seldom Never If you have felt embarrassed about your clothes, why? I would like your Opinion on the stories about these high school girls. 30. Jean is a new girl in the ninth grade in East Lansing High School. Her appearance is neat and clean. Her favorite combinations are plaid skirts and flowered blouses. Would you consider her well-dressed? Yes No. Why or why not? Would you invite her into your group even if you do not feel she is well-dressed? Yes NO Do you think everyone in your group would agree with you? Yes No DO you think all the groups in school would do the same as your group? Yes No Why do you think so? Arlene Bjorngaard Michigan State University - TCRA 1962 31. 32. 171 Michelle recently moved to East Lansing from California. Her first day at East Lansing High School She noticed that she was the only girl wearing colored bobby socks which were popular in California. She came home and tOld her mother that she had to buy heavy white socks so that she would be like all the other girls. Her mother thought this was rather foolish since all her colored socks matched her outfits. DO you think it is important for Michelle to have bobby socks like the other girls? No Yes. Why or why not? If she does not get heavy white bobby socks, what differ- ence do you think it will make? Why do you feel this way? Lynn dresses very neatly for school. She has many expen- sive clothes; however, her hair is usually messy and unkempt. DO you think messy hair plays an important part in Lynn's appearance? NO Yes. Why or why not? What do you think is more important--expensive clothes or near hair? Would you like to have Lynn as your girl friend? Yes NO Would you invite her to run around with your group? Yes NO Do you think everyone in your group would agree with you? Yes NO. Why do you think so? Do you think all the groups in school would do the same as your group? Yes No. Why do you think so? Arlene Bjorngaard . Michigan State University - TCRA 1962 Clothing: Figure: Hair: Style-- Complexion: Make-up: Eyes Lipstick Make-up base 172 RATING APPEARANCE OF INTERVIEWEE neat clean pressed fit appropriate for school fashionable tall average short heavy average slender neat clean unkempt simple elaborate good fair poor None Some but not obvious Arlene Bjorngaard Michigan State University - TCRA 1962 Obvious 'lIc "Illilliiiwyy