THE APPLICATION OF A PROJECTIVE TECHNIQUE FOR ANALYZING CLOTHING AWARENESS, CLOTHING SYMBOLS, AND THE RANGE OF THEMES ASSOCIATED WITH CLOTHING BEHAVIOR Thesis Io: tho Degree of Ph. D. MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY Mary Lou Rosencranz I960 This is to certify that the thesis entitled THE APPLICATION OF A PROJECTIVE TECHNIOUE FOR ANALYZING CLOTHING AWARENESS, CLOTHING SYMBOLS, AND THE RANGE OF THEMES ASSOCIATED WITH CLOTHING BEHAVIOR presented by MARY LOU ROSENCRANZ has been accepted towards fulfillment of the requirements for Eh, Q. degree in_S.o£.i_o.Lo.gy 8 Anthropology , _/ I .—~' / p / ‘ ’. ./ //. f . ,I / ’ , , l J. / 6. Z. t; ' /,;L{{/f/I / ui';~} _ L,‘.,v Major professor Date May '71 I960 0—169 LIBRARY Michigan Stab Umvcmty 1. Ill!Ill/IIWHHHWWII!!!”I”!!![III/II!!!(I!!! .1 1 3 1293 10390 5190 \I.‘ L. ‘IIIEI IIIII‘ LI. . THE APPLICATION OF A PROJECTIVE TECHNIQUE FOR ANALXZING CLOTHING AWARENESS, CLOTHING SYMBOLS, AND THE RANGE OF THEMES ASSOCIATED WITH CLOTHING BEHAVIOR By LCH ”Q" /. Mary Lou Rosencranz AN ABSTRACT Submitted to the School for Advanced Graduate Studies of Michigan State university of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements ' for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of Sociology and Anthropology 1960 An.Abstract by'hary'Lou Rosencranz The purpose of this study was the eXplanation of certain aSpects of clothing symbolism in socialepsychological terms. The degree of clothing awareness and the use of clothing themes were assessed by means of a Clothing T A T -- a new technique for this particular area of human be- havior. The investigational procedure included an examination of clothing awareness and clothing themes in terms of differences in (1) social class and related variables, (2) age, (3) rural-urban background and (h) verbal intelligence. Fourteen Specific hypotheses were formulated to test differ- ences that might occur in regard to these variables. The seven drawings used for the Clothing T1A T were designed to depict incongruities between clothing and sex, clothing 81d age, and cloth- ing and social status of the pictured characters. Awsample_of eighty-two women in a small city in south-central Michigan was selected by a strati- fied-random technique that included a proportionate nunb er of wives of men in each occupational stratum. Interviews were tape recorded to preserve the exact words of these women. A total clothing awareness score was given to each informant; this awareness score was composed of the addition of the number of typewritten lines of clothing comment, the number of characters whose clothing was mentioned, the number of clothing incongruities mentioned, the number of cards in which clothing gave the idea for a story, and the number of themes that were expressed in relation to clothing. Statistically significant findings related to clothing awareness scores indicated that women with high awareness scores were of the upper social class, belonged to a greater number of organizations, had a higher educational level, had a higher in- come, subscribed to a greater number of magazines, had higher verbal intelligence and had husbands in the white collar occupational group. 0f the nine hypotheses prOposed in relation to clothing awareness, seven were substantiated in data analyses. Social class and all of its related aspects (occupation, income, education, organizational membership and magazine readership) were found to have significant re- lationships to clothing awareness. Verbal intelligence proved to have a significant association with clothing awareness. The two variables 32} significantly related to clothing awareness were age and rural- urban background. 'Women who noted age and clothing incongruities were from the upper social class, the upper educational level, belonged to two or more or- ganizations, subscribed to three or more types of magazines and were wives of white collar workers. Those who observed formal incongruities were from the upper social class, the higher income level and were Wives hf white collar workers. ‘Women aware of status incongruities belonged to a high income level, had high verbal intelligence and came from urban communities. Informants who most often stated that clothing gave them the ideas for their stories were from the upper social class, from the white collar group, participated in two or more organizations and had high verbal intelligence. Although one of the primary aims in analyzing the thematic con- tent of the clothing protocols was to ascertain the range and type of clothing themes in this exploratory study, there were thirty-three statistically significant findings from analysis of the associations between clothing themes and the variables tested. Two of the five hypotheses proposed in relation to clothing themes were supported by the data and a third variable reinforced the thesis by indicating a trend in the direction which was theoretically anticipated. Social class showed a significant relationship to the use of social class themes; education was significantly related to the use of clothing of another culture theme; occupation of informant proved to have a relationship to occupational clothing themes that approached signi- ficance. Education of informant.was'ngt related to the use of sex themes (clothes appropriate for men or women). Thirty-six different themes incorporated clothing symbols. The general conclusion to be drawn is that clothing is an im- portant guide in determining the role and status of unknown persons. The fact that sixty percent of the informants stated that clothing gave the idea for the story in five or more cards lends added weight to the thesis. As many as ninety percent of the informants used clothing as the basis of her story for Cards Three and Five.: The potentialities in the use of the Clothing T A T are unlimited. Other types of situations could be pictured; the TIA T in its present form could be used with subjects-of both sexes and a variety of age group- ings to secure a wider view of the use of clothing in identifying the characters pictured. Despite the limitations of a relatively small sample, the range of topics concerning clothing hold promise for an exciting new area of investigation. Such studies are needed if we are to better understand the highly complex use of clothing as a social-psychological symbol. THE APPLICATION OF A PROJECTIVE TECHNIQUE FOR ANALYZING CLOTHING AWARENESS, CLOTHING SYMBOLS, AND THE RANGE OF THEMES ASSOCIATED WITH CLOTHING BEHAVIOR \" By Mary Iou Rosencranz A THESIS Submitted to the School for Advanced Graduate Studies of Michigan State University of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of SocioIOgy and Anthropology 1960 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This study was made possible by the c00peration of the department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts in the College of Home Economics and the Department of Sociology and Anthropology in the College of Science and Arts. The writer wishes to express her gratitude to Dr. Wilbur B. Brookover for his encouragement and guidance throughout this investi- gation; to Dr. John Useem, Dr. Duane L. Gibson, Dr. Charles P. Loomis, and Professor Hazel B. Strahan for their assistance and direction as members of her Guidance Committee; and to Gregory P. Stone fer assist- ance in the earlier phases of the research. The writer also desires to acknowledge the generous cooperation of the eighty-two women informants. . i ‘ ldi [4. g : il. a: f 1i (#34 we 1 w x "“ 3”“ "‘3' lat , . .«€w~w= TABLE OF CONTENTS Page LIST OF TABLES . . . . 5;. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v LIST OF FIGURES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii Chapter I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l A. Introductory Remarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l B. Review of Relevant Studies. . . . . . . . ._. . . . . 6 C. Brief History of the T A T . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2A D. Rationale of Projective Techniques. . . . . . . . . . 27 E. Statement of the Problem and Hypotheses . . . . . . . 29 II. PROCEDURE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Development of the Instrument USed in this Study. . . 37 The Sample. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #0 Scoring Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #1 Measurement of Variables. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #2 Statistical Techniques. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A7 Validity and Reliability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A7 'EIFJUOtvib III. FINDINGS RELATED TO CLOTHING AWARENESS . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Number of Lines of Clothing Comment . . . . . . . . . 50 Clothing Incongruities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Clothing of Specific Characters . . . . . . . . . . . 7O Clothing-—the Idea for the Story . . . . . . . . . . 75 Articles of Clothing Mentioned . . . . . . . . . . 75 Range of T A T Clothing Awareness Scores . . . . . . 79 Relationship of Clothing Awareness Scores to Independent Variables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Q’llt‘lUQtDID IV. FINDINGS RELATED TO CLOTHING THEMES . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Total Number of Themes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Presence or Absence of Themes . . . . . . . . . 89 Themes USed Most Frequently for Each Card . . . . . . 91 The Use of Themes on More Than One Card . . . . . . . 98 Significant Associations Between Themes and Variables Tested. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lO2 PdUOtIIID v. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 LITERATURE CITED . APPENDIX A. APPENDIX B. APPENDIX C. APPENDIX D. APPENDIX E. GENERAL COMMENTS; CARDS LIKED BEST AND LEAST. RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN INDEPENDENT VARIABLES . INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADMINISTRATION OF THE T A T. CODE USED FOR TRANSFERRING INFORMATION TO IBM CARDS O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O DRAWINGS USED FOR THE CLOTHING T A T. iv . 112 . 118 . 125 . 127 . 133 Table II. III. VI. VII. VIII. IX. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. LIST OF TABLES Distribution of Cases According to warner's Occupational Scale Summary of Associations Between Awareness of Clothing Incorgruities and Selected Variables Percentage Distribution of Awareness of Age Incongruities in Relation to Selected Variables . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Awareness of Status Incon- gruities in Relation to Selected variables. . . . . Percentage Distribution of Awareness of Sex Incongruities in Relation to Selected Variables . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Awareness of Formal Incon- gruities in Relation to Selected Variables. . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Awareness of Cultural and Size Incongruities in Relation to Selected Variables . . . Summary of Associations Between Clothing of Characters Mentioned and Selected Variables. . . . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Clothing of Characters Mentioned in Relation to Selected Variables . Summary of Associations Between Total Number of Cards in which Clothing Gave the Idea for Story and Selected Variables. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Number of Cards in Which Clothing Gave the Idea for Story in Relation to Selected variables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Percentage of Informants Who Used Clothing As the Idea for Her Story For Each Card . . . . . . . . . Articles of Clothing Mentioned by Ten or More Informants. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Summary of Associations Between Clothing Awareness Scores and Social Class Variables, Age, Rural-urban Background and Verbal Intelligence. . . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Total Clothing Awareness Scores in Relation to Selected Variables . . . . . . . Page .38 ~ 56 ~57 . 6O .61 .65 . 69 . 72 ~73 ~76 . 78 . 8O .83 .86 Table XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. HI. XXII. XXIII. HIV. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. Average Scores and Range of Clothing Awareness Scores By Social Class and Related Variables; Age; Rural- urban Background and Verbal Intelligence . . . . . . . . Rank Order of Cards in Relation to Tetal Number of Lines of Clothing Comment Compared With the Total Number of Themes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Summary of Associations Between the UBe of Clothing Themes For Each Card and Selected variables . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Clothing Themes For All Seven Cards In Relation to Selected variables . . Number of Different Themes and Number of Themes with a Frequency of Ten or Mere Fer Each Card . . . . . . . . . Themes Appearing Mest Frequently on All Seven Cards Analyzed Collectively. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Themes Appearing With Least Frequency on All Seven Cards Analyzed Collectively . . . . . . . . . . . Summary of Associations Between Clothing Themes and Selected Variables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Percentage Distribution of Cards Liked Best and Cards Liked Least By All Informants . . . . . . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Cards Liked Best and Cards Liked Least By Social Class . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Cards Liked Best and Cards Liked Least By Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Percentage Distribution of Cards Liked Best and Cards Liked Least By Rural-urban Backgrounds . . . . . . . . Summary of Associations Between Independent variables . vi Page 87 92 93 9h 95 100 101 103 123 123 12h 12h 126 LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1. Tetal Number of Lines of Clothing Comment For Each Card. 9 o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 2. Frequency Distribution of Eighty-two Scores on the T A T Clothing Awareness Scale . . . . . . . 3. Tbtal Number of Themes Deed for Each Card . vii Page 52 81 9o CMWEI INTRODUCTION The place of symbols in the whole gamut of social behavior is generally considered to be of prime importance. Inasmuch as clothing is frequently thought to be a significant overt symbol of behavior, this study will attempt to explain certain aspects of clothing symbol- ism in social-psychological terms. The degree to which clothing is used as a guide in identifying the role and status of unknown persons will be examined. The various shades of meaning attached to clothing will also be analyzed in light of the range of themes concerning the use of clothing in particular social situations with the aid of a modified projective technique. The importance of the use of symbols in the field of social behavior is frequently expressed by sociologists and social psychol- ogists. George H. Mead is particularly lucid in his reference to the relationship between significant symbols and social processes, especially in regard to group meanings attached to symbols. "The significant gesture or symbol always presupposes for its significance the social process of experience and behavior in which it arises; or, as the logicians say, a universe of discourse is always implied as....the field 5 within which significant gestures or symbols do in fact havejcg. significance. This universe of discourse is constituted by 1 a group of individuals carrying on and participating in a ‘ common social process of experience and behavior, within which these gestures or symbols have the same or common meanings for all members of that group." 3‘” a l ‘r‘ J 1George H. Mead, Mind, Self, and Society. (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1956), p. 89. 2 Talcott Parsons speaks of the symbolic significance of roles that "follow the main lines of differentiation which are inherent in l the differentiation of the social structure generally.P In respect to status symbols, Erving Goffman makes this obser-“ vat ion: "Status symbols visibly divide the world into categories of persons, thereby helping to maintain solidarity within a category and hostility between different categories.... By definition, then, a status symbol carries categorical "“”7 significance, that is, it serves to identify the social status } of the person who makes 1 ."2 3 It is suggested here that clothing is not only a significant symbol in Head's terms but can also be interpreted as an expressive é symbol associated with role differentiation in the Parsonian sense. However, the recognition of clothing as a significant symbol or as a means of differentiating one's position in the social system has had little more than passing comment by most sociologists. Thorstein Veblen's3 notions of clothing as "conspicuous con- sumption" and as means for displaying wealth are full of obvious symbolism relevant at the time of his writing. Although at present there is, as Robert Steiner and Joseph weissh point out, a deemphasis of conspicuous display by some members of the higher strata; this, too, lTalcott Parsons, The Social System, (Glencoe: The Free Press, 1951)! P0 “00 eErving Goffman, "Symbols of Class Status," British Journal of Sociolo , (December, 1951), p. 295. 3Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class, (New York: The Medern Library, 193A), especially pp. 167—187 - I'Robert I Steiner and Jbseph Weiss, "Veblen Revised in the Light of Chunter-Snobbery," Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, IX (1951): PP- 263- 268 H has been interpreted as being "counter snobbery, for only the wealthy can afford to be without the apprOpriate emblems. Another exception is noted by Russell Lynes in A Surfeit of Heney in which he describes the "Upper Bohemians" who wear clothes that are primarily comfortable and casual but seldom conventional. The "Upper Bohemians" make a sharp distinction between fashion and style--"Anyone can follow fashion; only a man of taste can distinguish style."1 In like manner as early as 1905 G- B. Shaw2 analyzed his acceptance of the prevailing mode thus: "Stiff cylinders of white and black (as a cylinder hat) are the ideal raiment. Yes, I have worn one in my time; I was once too poor to wear anything else." James Mbrgan3, an economist, describes the various interpretations that may be given to the non-conformist who disregards the accepted clothing customs. '"Refusal to conform may be interpreted as stupid stubbornness I ,x or lack of good taste, or as an indication of radicalism in 4- other and more important areas of life, or even as inability ( to afford new clothes." However, Morgan, too, is cognizant of social class differentials in the use of such symbols when he further states that "like many another social situation, there is a reverse twist. The well estab- lished and the socially secure can afford to set their own styles.... blue Jeans for girls started with the wealthy coeds, and afterwards became acceptable among others for whom the saving in money was much IRussell Lynes, A Surfeit of Heney, (New York: Harper and Brothers, 1953), p. 3h. 9‘ eGeorge B. Shaw, Harpers' Weekly, Vol. A9, (1905), p. #56. 3James N. Mbrgan, Consumer Economics, (New York: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1955), p. 312. more important."1 The use of clothing as a guide to the status of an unknown person is of the utmost importance. In the words of the anthro- pologist Ralph Linton2 clothing "makes it possible for a stranger to determine at once the social category to which the wearer belongs and (a thus avoid acts or attitudes toward him which would be social errors." ( James Morgan contributes this observation which is likewise applicable to the stranger. "You may discover that in a world.where a person's abilities are hard to assess, he is sometimes Judged by what hewears."3 In this vein Goffman likewise asserts that "status symbols provide the cue that is used in order to discover the status of others. and, from this, the way in which others are to be treated."h Conn and KIanner5 found that clothing was one of the most frequently used cues for differentiating between the sexes. This fact suggested a developmental priority of clothing symbols to these authors. As Ralph Linton analyzes the functions of the clothing complex in our culture, he includes functions in connection with both chastity and courting. "These functions depend much less on the inherent qualities of clothing than they do on the associations which have been developed about it, i.e., the meanings which our culture has JIbid., p. 312. 2Ralph Linton, The Study of Man, (New York: D. A. Appleton- Century 00., 1936), p. A16. 3James Mbrgan, gp, 333., p. 312. -hErving Goffman, 22: Eit,, p. 30k. 5J- H. Conn and L. Kanner, "Children's Awareness of Sex Differences," Journal of Child Psychiatry, I (l9h7), pp. 3-57. given it. These meanings are very numerous, with all sorts of delicate shadings. Thus while remaining well within the bounds of strict prOpriety a woman can indicate by her costume whether she is favorable to male advances or not and whether her interests are commercial or matrimonial." Anatole France was so certain of the symbolic significance of clothing that he once wrote, "If I were allowed to choose from.the pile of books which will be published one hundred years after my death, do you know which one I would take? I would simply take a fashion magazine so that I could see how women dress one century after my departure. And these rags would tell me more about the humanity of the future than all the philOSOphers, novelists, prOphets and schol- 2 . ars." As Gregory P. Stone has pointed out,3 clothing may also have non-symbolic aspects which are apparent when it is used to satisfy such needs as protection from the elements, comfort, or personal taste. One using clothing in the non-symbolic sense would give no thought to the appraisals others might make. Clothing, then, would be a "means" for the non-symbolically oriented.wearer in Parsons' h terminolOgy. 1Ralph Linton, op. cit., p. #15. 2A8 reported by Bernard Rudofsky, Are Clothes Medern7, (Chicago: Paul Theobald, 19h7), pp. 17-18: 3See Gregory P. Stone, "Clothing and Social Structure: A Study of Expressive Symbols in Community Life," unpublished Manu- script, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State University, 1953. hSee Talcott Parsons, The Structure of Social Action, (Glenboe: The Free Press, l9h9), pp. h3-51. REVIEW OF RELEVANT STUDIES Many of the substantive studies of clothing in its symbolic aspects are to be found in the area of psychology. Those that are couched in an individual psychological frame of reference, however, frequently provide insights for the formulation of social-psycholog- ical hypotheses, therefore a short review of pertinent studies follows. Psychological Studies The first questionnaire concerning clothing was deve10ped by G. Stanley Hall1 in 1898 to examine the relationship between clothes and the deveIOpment of the sense of self. Results from 500 questionnaires suggested that for children the ornamental aspect of clothing was most important and that certain articles of clothing played an important part in the development of self. Approval of others was a necessary factor in children's enjoyment of clothes; this was particularly true for girls. He also found that clean clothes had a moral effect upon children and that children who were habitually well dressed may tend to become fastidious and effeminate. In 1905 Flaccus2 analyzed the results of a second questionnaire developed by Hall in which an attempt was made to discover the effects of being well dressed and how the respondents were impressed by the dress of others. The 181 girls had a sense of power and.worth, were\\ .— more sociable and felt that they had met the approval of others when ‘} I I 16. Stanley nail, "Some Aspects of the Early Sense of Self." American Journal of Psychology, 1):, (1897 -1898), p. 315-395. 2Louis w. Flaccus, "Remarks on the Psychology of Clothes," Pedagogical seminary, XIII, (1906), pp. 61-83. they were well dressed. With regard to being ill-dressed, the girls had unsociable, depressed, distressed, self conscious, envious feelings, as well as a fear of being ridiculed and a general lowering of esteem. It was also reported that clothing played a strong part in their appraisal of individuals. George Van Ness Dearborn,l stimulated by Flaccus' study, examined the relationship between clothing and success in 1918. From twenty-four psychology students at Harvard he determined that clothing was related to success, in that his respondents stated that well- dressed peOple gain the confidence of those in the business world, that clothing inspires self confidence, that a good appearance frees a person from.fear of adverse criticism, and that first impressions have a lasting effect with many individuals. In 1929 the results of three studies were published. J. C. Flugel reported upon a questionnaire concerning attitude toward clothing. IFrom,the compilation of replies, Flugel developed a typology of individuals including the following: the rebellious type, the resigned type, the unemotional type, the prudish type, the duty type, the protected type, the supported type, the sublimated type, and the self-satisfied type. However, Flugel pointed out that further study might result in a more reliable and more useful set of types. During the same year Hurlock3 published her findings concerning 1George Van Ness Dearborn, The Psychology of Clothes, (Princeton: Psychological Review Company, 1918)— 2J. c. Flugel, "On the Mental Attitude to Present-Day Clothes," British Journal of Medical Psychology, Ix (1929), pp. 97. 3Elizabeth B. Hurlock, "mtivation in Fashion," Archives of Psychology, No. 111, (1929), p. 71. fashion motivation. Approximately 1500 people from sixteen to fifty- one years of age answered specific questions dealing in part with the effect of clothing upon others. Some of her findings were that sixty- eight percent of the boys and sixty-four percent of the girls dressed .for their own sex or for both sexes; seventy-two percent of the women and thirty-eight percent of the men tried to cover defects by means of clothing and thus avoid criticism for either their own sex or the opposite sex. How an adolescent's attitude toward clothing differs from a child's was studied by Macaulayl in England. Boys and girls were asked what sort of clothing they liked to wear to parties and for every- day. Up to age nine, children did not specify the type of garment pre- ferred. Young adolescents felt that garments should be as bright and cheerful as possible. Girls from the age of twelve mentioned that colors should be light, and some for the first time selected brown, gray, or black as suitable colors. After the age of twelve there was an interest in fashion as well as suitability of clothing. A large percentage of both boys and girls found clothing tight, rough and too hot. In 1933 Cantril and Allport2 reported a study that used one hundred Harvard and fifty-nine Radcliffe students in order to deter— mine whether a person's dominant values influence his interest in clothes. The findings showed that men's general interest in clothes 1Eve Hacaulay, "Some Notes on the Attitude of Children to Dress," British Journal of Medical Psychology, No. 9, (1929), pp. 150-158. 2!. Cantril and C. Allport, "Recent Applications of the Study of values," Journal of Abnormal and Social Psycholo , XXVIII, (1933), PP- 259-273- seemed to have no relation to their personal values, but women who had high aesthetic and economic values as measured by the "Values" scale showed a great interest in clothes, while women with high theoretic and religious orientation showed relative disinterest in clothes. Respondents were also asked to rank the following alternatives in order of their importance: As far as my income allows, I try to keep in style because-- a. It creates a good impression on other people. (Political) b. I obtain personal satisfaction from being well dressed even though no one sees me. (Aesthetic) c. It helps me make friends. (Social) d. tylish clothes show that I am not poor. (Economic) To determine the correlation between the order of these choices and the subjects, Study of Values scores contingency coefficients were calculated. For the Radcliffe group a single contingency coefficient of .51.was calculated by bringing all the data into a single contingency table. Similar results were obtained for the Harvard group. The con- clusion was drawn that the specific interest of both sexes was con- sistent with their prevailing values. In 193% E. D. Barr1 tried to discern whether or not the individual through his choice of clothes, expresses himself as an integral conform- ing member of his social group and to what extent clothes serve a means of emphasizing individual distinction. The group studied included both students and wage earners between the ages of seventeen and fifty. Her main conclusion was that the fundamental attitudes in the choice of lEstelle DeYoung Barr, "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Motivation," Archives of Psychology, xxvx, No. 171, (June, 1931+), p. 101. 10 clothing are associated with the desire to conform, the desire for comfort, and the desire for economy. The desire to conform was the strongest motive for all groups. A study of first impressions was made by Wilhelmina Jacobsonl at Brooklyn College.in 19h5. A group of entering freshmen were given a blank piece of paper and told to list the remarks that came to their minds about the subjects who stood in front of them for a minute and a half. Students made comments about clothing half as frequently as about grooming, yet both of these categories had a greater percentage of unfavorable responses than "psychological characteristics." There also seemed to be a tendency for the more intelligent girl to comment about clothes. In 19h5 S. Silverman2 published the best designed and most comprehensive psychological study to date. Approximately 370 high school girls from twelve to eighteen years of age answered a question- naire composed of sixty items. Some important findings were that regardless of age girls attached considerable significance to clothing and appearance; three-fourths of the group felt that clothes were necessary for happiness and also enjoyed having their clothes as a (focus of attention. JMost girls thought they should choose clothing that appealed to boys and of which their friends approved. Ninety- six percent were willing to make some sacrifice in order to have clothes. Although Silverman's techniques were more refined than lWilhelmina E. Jacobson, "First Impressions of Classmates," JOurnal of Applied Psychology, Vol. 29, No. 2, (19h5). 2 Sylvia S. Silverman, Clothing and Appearance: Their Psychological Igplications for Teen-Age Girls, (New York: Bureau of Publications, Teachers College, Columbia university, 19h5). 11 those used by previous researchers, her findings coincide with the earlier studies. On the basis of teachers' ratings, Silverman singled out twoki extreme groups--a group highest in appearance and a group lowest in appearance. The poor-appearing group tended to show a greater dislike for companionship with either boys or girls, a dislike for group activities, and a dislike for situations which gave them prominence in the group. Good-appearing girls were more intelligent, participated to a greater degree in school activities and were more often leaders than girls with poor appearance. Mary 3. Ryan of the Cornell University Agricultural EXperiment 1 relating to the psychological Station published a series of bulletins effects of clothing. In 1950, questionnaires were obtained from 1072 college girls at the Cornell University to determine the psychological effects of feeling well or poorly dressed. The results showed that those who felt well dressed were more conscious of their clothing most of the time, that city girls had more confidence in their clothes than rural girls, and that those who felt the least secure had a higher interest in clothing. A modified questionnaire was sent to 2h5 rural boys and girls . and to a like number of city boys and girls (population over 300,000) lMary 8. Ryan, Psychological Effects of Clothing. Part I. "Survey of the Opinions of College Girls," Cornell University Agricultural Station, Bulletin No. 882, (September 1952). Mary 8. Ryan, Psycholo- gical Effects of Clothing, Part II. "Comparison of College Students with urban Students,.and Boys with Girls," Cornell university Agricultural Station, Bulletin No. 898, (July 1953). Psychological Effects of Clothigg.’ Part III. “Report of Interviews with a Selected Sample of College Hemen," Cornell university Agricultural Station, Bulletin No. 900, (August 1953). 2Mary 8. Ryan, 22: gig., Bulletin 898. 12 in the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth grades. Ryan's findings showed that boys and girls had similar attitudes toward clothing. urban girls were more interested in clothing, were more conscious of clothing and had greater quantity and better quality of clothing than the rural girls had. In a later investigationl Ryan interviewed lOO Cornell University girls to obtain more detailed information concerning feelings of being well or poorly dressed, to study some of the qualitative factors related to confidence in appearance and to validate the "interest" score used in her original study. Five girls who score high in clothing interest and five girls with low clothing interest scores were given the Rorschach personality test. Again Ryan found that girls who felt well dressed.were more relaxed, more at ease and more confident} while girls who felt poorly dressed were ill-at-ease, self-centered and worried about their appearance. In regard to interest, Ryan felt that a general interest in clothing was too inclusive and that differentiation of various kinds of interest would be desirable. Although there were few girls who completed the Rorschach test, the main differences between the low interest group and the high interest group were in relation to their orientation to their environment and in their patterns of adjustment. FOr example, the high interest group was "thrown more on environment for adJustment," exhibited "more anxiety directed toward the environment," and emphasized "modes of adjustment closely related to overt patterns of behavior." The 1Mary 8. Ryan, op, £13., Bulletin 900. 13 low interest group was "less dependent upon environment for stimu- lation," "more mature in emotional response to environment," and displayed "a greater capacity to work out disturbances in fantasy activity." Jessie Wardenl in studying factors affecting satisfactions with clothing observed that favorable Judgment of clothing from boys was of first importance to girls; favorable Judgment of family was of next importance and of least importance were the opinions of other girls. The author also found that girls who expressed greater interest in clothes by reading about and discussing clothes also expressed high knowledge of fashion trends.“ The Liberal Arts non-sorority girls expressed the most interest of this type and the Education non- sorority girls expressed the least interest. This writer agrees with Arthur Vener who has pointed out that most of the "psychological” studies to date have been heavily biased toward high school and college age individuals and that all of them have dealt with the middle status segment of society, with no attention 2 given to the upper or lower status groups. lJessie warden, "Some rhetors Affecting the Satisfaction and Dissatisfactions with Clothing of Women Students in the College of Education and the College of Liberal Arts," unpublished Doctoral Thesis, The Pennsylvania State university, (1955). " 2Arthur M. Vener, "Stratification Aspects of Clothing Importance, unpublished Master's Thesis, Department of Sociology and.Anthro- pology, Michigan State College, (1953), pp. 11-12. 1h Sociological Studies In 19hh Dorothy Dickensl reported a study in rural Mississippi of social participation as a criterion for determining scientific standards in clothing. The definition for a socially participating farm family was: "attendance at daytime preaching at least once a quarter." The church was selected as the most universal voluntary social organization in which all members of white families of Mississippi participated. Dickens felt that social participation was a good basis for setting clothing standards in that the families whose clothing supplies were ranked as minimum were also the ones who made up the group with lowest social participation and families whose clothing supplies were ranked as above average were the ones whose social participation rank was above average. ' One of the main criticisms of this type of study is that the results are primarily applicable to a particular place at a par- ticular time. There are few areas at present where church participation alone would serve as an index of social participation. In l9h8 M. L. Rosencranze developed a questionnaire to determine “ differences in degree of clothing interest. Interest in clothing was defined as "the amount of time, energy, money, thought and attention given to clothing." The results obtained from.the 180 respondents indicated that age, rural or urban background, occupation and income 1Dorothy Dickens, "Social Participation as a Criterion for Determining Scientific Minimum.Standards in Clothing," Rural Sociolggy, Vol. 9, (19hh), pp. 3k1—3h9. aflary'lou.Rosencranz, "A Study of Interest in Clothing Among Selected Groups of Married and unmarried Young Hemen," unpublished Master's Thesis, Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts, Michigan State College, (19h8). 15 were significantly related to an "Interest in Clothing Score." The author reported that education, marital status, children in the family, and membership in organizations were related to women's interest in clothing to a lesser degree. The women with highest clothing interest were young, single, from urban areas (cities of 10,000 or more) and had a high income. Married women without children had higher interest scores than married women with children; college students had a higher interest than factory workers or business women. Bernice Kingl_studied the role of clothing in family relation- ships in 19h9. There were thirty girls between the ages of thirteen and nineteen included in this study. Her investigation revealed that clothing gave teen-age girls a sense of personal satisfaction as well as social status if they were allowed to choose the clothing which they felt conformed to their group standards. Clothing frustrations, among adolescent girls interviewed, stemmed from the imposition of a standard of dress which was in conflict with the standard of their group. Athlene Scheid2 investigated the father's role in relation to the clothing of farm families in 1951. Of the thirty fathers inter- viewed, seventy-eight percent did not consider clothing as an indicator of wealth, were proud of the appearance of their families and thought that they compared favorably with others. Over one-half of the fathers felt that they would like their families to have better quality of clothing, but thought that their families need fewer and cheaper 1Bernice King, "A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relationships in Twenty-five Selected Families," Unpublished-Master's Thesis,.Michigan State College, (1951). 2Athlene Scheid, "The Father's Role in Relation to the Clothing of Furl.ramilies," unpublished.Master's Thesis, Mflchigan State College, (1951). 16 clothing than urban families. One-fourth of the fathers were not interested in their families' clothing. 1 In 1953 Arthur Vener constructed a modified Guttman-type scale to measure the personal estimates of clothing importance of eighty-eight married men in a southern Michigan community of 10,000. Vener found that personal estimates of clothing importance were related to social status, to social mobility and to degree of social parti- cipation. Of all the indices of social status used in this study, occupational prestige and source of income had the greatest degrees of relationship to estimates of clothing importance. The greatest pr0portion of individuals having high clothing importance scores were in the medium-high social status group. Those in the highest status categories had lower clothing importance scores than the medium-high group. The author interprets the low estimates of clothing importance by those fnam the highest status in this way: "1) The responses of individuals from.the highest status levels were often based upon specific projected situations, i.e., parties, picnics, business meetings, etc., and consequently, were given medium or even low scores. 2) The highest status individuals may have already attained their status goals, or more likely, may have inherited their high status positions. Therefore, clothing as a symbol cf success, or as a means to a higher status goal, is of little consequence in the social life of these people. 3) The-mass production of clothing has probably decreased its value as a status symbol for persons of high status, and more emphasis has been placed upon such symbols as birth, inheritance, and "culture" for communicating their status to others." ' ;Arthur vener, "Stratification Aspects of Clothing Importance," unpublished Master's Thesis, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State College, (1953). 2%., pp. 83-81.. 17 In 1953 Corinne Grayl analyzed the fashion orientations of ninetyeeight married women from southern Muchigan. Gray concluded that there were four types of orientation to fashion: The mimetic type whose main concern was relative inconspicuousness and conformity to fashion; the individualistic type or those who tried to draw attention to themselves through the wearing of attractive and fashion- able clothing; the condition-inhibited type who felt that certain conditions over which she had no control kept her from wearing fashion- able clothes; and the non-rationalizing woman who accepted fashion as a goal but could formulate no rationalization for this behavior. In general the condition-inhibited woman had less education, less income, less occupational mobility, read fewer kinds of magazines, belonged to a lower social class, and.was more oriented to the local- community than were the other types. Grace Ieask2 and Anna Rosner3 studied clothing preferences and buying practices of high school girls. These investigators found that the girls' clothing choices were influenced most by newspaper ads and store displays; secondly, by their parents and thirdly, by classmates. Their behavior had contradictory aspects in that the girls wanted both parental approval and independence of choice. Social participation 1Corrine Gray, "Orientations to Fashion," Unpublished Master's Thesis, Department of Sociology and.Anthropology, Michigan State College, (1953)- ' 2Grace Leask, "A Survey of the Clothing Preference and Buying Practices of 100 Girls of‘West Division High School in.Milwaukee, Wiscon- sin,“ unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College, (1953). 3Anna§Rosner, "A Survey of the Clothing Preference and Buying Practices of 100 Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Illinois," unpublished Master's Thesis, Mdchigan State College, (195h). l8 and social activities were significant factors in both selection of clothes and in satisfaction received from their clothing. Stone, Form and Strahanl maintained that the social climate of a shopping expedition influences the decision of the purchase. They divided shoppers into two groups: The "receptive" group includes homemakers who like to shep, who are influenced by window displays, who approach clothing purchases with an uncertainty or vagueness concerning what they want to buy, and.who desire the support of shopping companions and/or sales clerks in arriving at a purchase decision. The "insulated" group dislikes window shepping, avoids window displays, approaches clothing purchases with a certainty of what they want and excludes shOpping companions and sales clerks from their purchase decision. Thomas Ford Hoult2 eXperimented at two colleges3 with pictures of men unknown to 25h student Judges who rated pictures in terms of "attractiveness." The investigator sums up his findings as follows: 1) Clothing did not appear to have been associated with important social ratings of college men when they were rated by acquaintances; instead, the ratings made were associated with the degree of social closeness the Judges eXpressed for the men Judged. 2) In another controlled situ- ation, clothing appeared to be markedly associated with the attractive- ness ratings of the pictures of some college-age men when the pictures were rated by college students unacquainted with the men pictured. The l N Gregory P. Stone, William H. Form and Hazel B. Strahan, The Social Climate of Decision in Shopping for Clothes,“ Journal of Home Economics, No.2h6, (February 1951+), pp. 86-88. 2Thomas Ford Hoult, "Clothing as a Factor in Social Ratings," American Sociological Review, No. 19, (June 195h), pp. 32h-328. 3Michigan State College and Indiana Central College. l9 attractiveness ratings for men previously rated low went up when the men were pictured wearing clothing independently rated high in apprOpriate- ness; attractiveness ratings for men rated high went down when they were pictured wearing clothing rated low. In 1955 William Form and Gregory Stone authored two eXperiment station bulletins reporting a Joint research proJect of the Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts, and the Department of Sociology and Anthropology. The first bulletin1 of this series dealt? with rural and urban clothing patterns. The authors stated that their study "confirms the basic hypothesis that social factors affect the number of clothing items owned and the preferences people have for their selection and use. City dwellers generally owned a larger number of garments and paid more ffir them than did rural dwellers. Also, the cosmopolites (persons identified with urban life, irrespective of urban or rural residence) owned more clothing items and paid more for them.than the localites (individuals whose interests were focussed mainly on the local community). Clothing inventories, uses, and preferences were also related to class differences. The so-called upper classes resembled the cosmopolites. Other classes tended to be like the localites."2 In addition, the reasons given for "most preferred" garments revealed that the high social participators were motivated by expectations of social approval, while the low participators were interested in comfort and wearability. Newness of a garment was the fashion criterion used 1 . Gregory P. Stone and William H. Form, "Clothing Inventories and Preferences Among Rural and urban Families," Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin, 21.6, (1955), 1:6 pp. erid., p. 5. 20 by the upper status urban men and women; pOpular acceptance of a garment was the fashion criterion of lower groups. The second bulletin1 of this series reported that one-half of the 108 men studied ascribed high importance to clothing in general. White collar workers attached greater importance to clothing than did manua1.workers. In fact, white collar workers viewed clothing as a symbol capable of manipulation in the work situation to influence others, while manual workers were more concerned with durability and usefulness of clothing. More than one-third of the white collar workers "dressed- up" when applying for their first Job, while less than one-fifth of the manual workers did the same. Two—thirds of the men interviewed either knew someone who had advanced occupationally by the use of clothing or thought it was possible to do so. Almost all of the respondents were satisfied with their work clothing, but more white collar workers than manual workers felt a need for more clothes for work than they had at that time. Katherine Hall2 in studying low income families found that families who owned larger amounts of clothing did not have a higher satisfaction score; that older husbands and wives had higher satis- faction scores; that those with lower amounts of education had higher scores; that boys were more satisfied than girls; and that younger children were more satisfied than older children. 1William H. Form and Gregory P. Stone, "The Social Significance of Clothing in Occupational Life," Nuchigan Agricultural EXperiment Station Technical Bulletin, No. 2h7, (1955), 53 pp. ieKatherine Burnette Hall, "A Study of Some Factors that Con- tribute to Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions in the Clothing of Ninety-two Urban Iow Income Families," Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, The Pennsylvania State University, (1955). o.) 21 In 1956 Margaret wgrning 1 investigated the implications of social class for clothing behavior for 212 girls, seven, eight and nine years of age in Des Moines, Iowa. The author found that the social classes varied in number of garments owned, prices paid, in provision of clothing for special occasions, and in type of store at which clothing was purchased. The daughters in the different social classes also varied in the amount and type of participation in the selection of their own clothing and the age at which they began to take part in the selection and care of clothing. The amount of concern felt by the mothers regarding Opinions of others also varied with social class. Arthur Vener2 found that differences in adolescent clothing orientations have social-psychological implications. Some of his important findings were that girls demonstrated greater clothing awareness than boys, that girls who participated more in organized activity tended to have more clothing awareness, that girls who were socially confident were less aware of clothes, that boys and girls who were other-directed were more aware of clothing, that boys and girls who were in the lower grades felt a lower sense of clothing depri- vation, that boys and girls whose fathers were of higher occupational status expressed sentiments of clothing deprivation less frequently. than those of lower status, that boys and girls who participated more 1Margaret 0- Warning, "The Implications of Social Class for Cloth- ingrBehavior: The Acquisition and use of Apparel for Girls, Seven, Eight, and Nine Years of Age in Three Social Classes in Des Moines, Iowa," Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, Michigan State University, (1956). 2Arthur Vener, "Adolescent Orientations to Clothing: A Social- Psychological Interpretation," Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, Michigan State University, (1957). ‘ 22 in organizations expressed less clothing deprivation than the low participators, that those who were socially confident felt less clothing deprivation, and that boys who were more aware of clothing did not express sentiments of high clothing deprivation. Vener also found that an adolescent's mother and his peers are highly salient referents in dress selection. In this connection "mother" was referred to more frequently by children in the lower grades than those in the higher grades, girls referred to "mother" more often than boys, and girls in the lower grades referred to their peers more frequently than those in the higher grades, and twelfth graders tended to refer less fre- quently to specific other persons in their responses to clothing referent items than did the lower grades. From the latter statement, Vener concluded that by the time the adolescent reached twelfth grade, clothing norms were effectively internalized. In 1957 a third experiment station bulletin by Stone and ram1 reported that usually the kind of clothing worn by the homemaker while shapping for clothes was conditioned by her position in the community; the higher her social status, the more likely she would be "dressed up." In addition, women who regarded the shopping situation as one that enhanced their social status more often "dressed up." These women also felt that the way they dressed affected the service salesclerks gave them. However, those who "dressed up" for shopping considered over- dressing a violation; practically all women considered housedresses inappropriate for shopping. In general, the women believed that shOpping 1Gregory P. Stone and William S. Fern, "The Ioca1.Community Clothing Market: A Study of the Social and Social Psychological Contexts of Shopping," Michigan.Agricultural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin, No. 262, (1957), 62 pp. 23 in larger cities called for more ”formal” apparel. Younger, middle status upwardly mobile, urban-oriented women usually knew what they wanted to buy before leaving home. The authors also found that women in the middle status range spent less time shepping for clothes than women in higher and lower levels. Older women tended to shop in mornings in the earlier part of the week; younger women shopped after— noons in the latter part of the week. Older women with Larger families, who were integrated into the social life of the community, usually shOpped with others.‘ "For these women, shopping companions seemed to function as a 'social looking glass'"1 In a 1958 experiment station bulletin Rosencranz2 investigated the relationship of occupation and income to mothers’ selection of clothing for their ten to twelve year old daughters. Some of the significant differences found were that mothers in both the white collar and high income groups bought more of their daughters school dresses in "high prestige" specialty shOps or "better" department stores than did mothers in the manual worker and low income groups. Mothers in the white collar groups also paid more for all types of dresses for their daughters and could recall more brand names of dresses bought for their daughters. The low income group purchased more "sale" dresses and received more dresses as gifts. Mother and daughter selected the daughters' clothes together in families'of white collar workers and in the high income families. ~ lIbid. ., p. h. ‘? 2Mhry Iou Rosencranz, "Relevance of Occupation and Income to Mothers' Selection of Clothing for Daughters," Michigan Agricultural Experiment station TEChnical Bulletin, No. 268, (1958). 30 pp 2% Both wives of manual workers and.wives in the low income bracket more often selected their daughters‘ clothes alone. In general, the two occupational groups had different buying practices, differer t reasons for sewing for their daughters, and made different choices when asked to make selections from three sets of actual dresses. Much of the sociological research provides substantial evidence that clothing is an important component in the interpretation of an individual's role and status. Some of the most fruitful research in this area has been sponsored by the Michigan State university Experi- ment Station.l However, an explanation of the intimate nature of clothing as a symbol was not forthcoming from the first phases of this research project. Tb this end, a new technique was designed to measure an individual's perceptions relating to the field of clothing symbolism. It is, then, appropriate to examine the rationale of projective techniques in general as well as the background of the TAT as a research tool. Brief History of the TAT In 1907 Brittaing presented a series of nine pictures to a group of boys and girls 13 to 20 years of age and directed them.to write stories suggested by the pictures. Significant sex differences were found in that girls' stories had more social, moral and religious ~ L , . themes, more interest in clothing and food preparation. ”The girls' 1This research was initiated in 1950 as a cooperative project between the Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts and the Department of Sociology and Anthropology. 2! L Brittain, "A Study in Imagination," Pedigggical Seminary, Vol.1h (1907) pp 137- -207 25 stories were also filled with sadness and a fear of being left alone. Brittain believed the latter to be a tendency caused by a society which blocked normal physical and social activity for girls. Brittain’s study was followed by several similar studies with childrenl, however, it was not until 1935 that the first Thematic Apperception Test appeared. In that year C. D. Morgan and H. A. Murray2 published a test which they claimed was based on the fact that an individual required to interpret an ambiguous social situation was apt to reveal his own personality in the process. Through exper- ience it was learned that the responses were much more meaningful when the subject was asked to tell a dramatic story. Results of the T A T were integrated with Murray's general theory of personality in 19383. The revision of the T A T which is currently in use has thirty pictures and a blank card.h The cards are both numbered and marked to indicate four sets of twenty cards each: one for girls, one for boys, one for females over lb, and one for males over 1h. For instance, a card marked G F is to be used for both girls and.women, while a card marked B G is to be used for both boys and girls. A card without a 1See w. Libby, "The Imagination of Adolescents," American Journal of Psychology, Vol. 19, (1908), pp. 2h9-252 and L. A. Schwartz, “Social-situation Pictures in the Psychiatric Interview," American Journal of Orthopsjchiatry Vol. 2, (1932), pp. l2h-l32. .20. D.'Morgan and H. A. Murray, "A Method for Investigation of .Phantasies: The T A T," Archives of Neurology_and Psychiatry, Vol. 3M, (1935) pp. 289-306. ‘33Henry A. MMrray, ggplorations in Personality, (New York: Oxford University Press, 1938) 761 pp. “Henry A. Murray, Thematic Apperception Tbst,(Camhridge, lass.: Ehrvard University Press, l9h3). (Set of thirty cards and manual.) 26 letter designation is to be used for both sexes and all ages. Pictures on the cards vary from the type found in magazine illus- trations showing human figures to fairly abstract and vague represen- tations. Since Murray developed his original T A T, it has been used in widely different fields of research. The T A T has indeed proved to be a useful instrument in the exploration of mental deficiency, child development, social attitudes, attitudes related to war and the military, and in various phases of culture and personality.1 There have also been many modifications of the T A T and there will probably be more rather than fewer modifications. Some of the more widely known adaptations include the Make a Picture Story (M A P 8) test of Shneidman2 in which the informant constructs his own pictures from a set of sixty-seven separate cardboard figures which can be superimposed on any of twenty-two backgrounds. The MIA P S test usually evokes longer and richer stories, but because of the infinite number of background-figure combinations, it has been difficult to build up norms for responses. The Thompson Modification of the Thematic Apperception Test3 uses the original T A T pictures redrawn with Negro figures instead of 1Bee bibliography in Silvan S. Thompkins, The Thematic Apper- caption Tbstnyhe Theory and Technique of Interpretation,f(New Yerk: Grune and Stratton, 19E7)f ’ ‘ 3 . . ,2 win 5. Shneidman, Make—A-Picture-Story (M A P 3) Test, (New York: Th Psychological Corporation, 1939): (Set of cards, figures, figure location charts.) . 3Charles E. Thompson, Thompson Mbdification of the Thematic Apperception Test, (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press), l9h9 (Set of_eighteen cards and manual). 27 white figures; results show that the Thompson pictures are more suitable figures for Negro subjects. Other modifications have been made for vastly different cultural groups including American Indians, Mexican Indians, South West Africans and S-uth Pacific-Micronesian groups. The Children's Apperception Test (C A T)2 was constructed to be used with younger children aged three to eleven years. It consists of 10 pictures using animal figures which the authors feel are more promising figures for eliciting meaningful stories for the pre-adol- 3 consisting of 20 pictures escent group. The Michigan Picture Test of children has been designed to distinguish well and poorly adjusted children aged eight to fourteen years. This test develOped under the auspices of the Michigan Department of Mental Health is based upon a long and precise research program, thus is considered a promising instrument. Rationale of Projective Techniques The basic assumption behind the use of projective techniques is that a subject's responses are not the result of sheer accident but are definitely influenced by social-psychological characteristics of 1William E. Henry, ”The Thematic Apperception TEChnique in the Study of Group and Cultural Problems," in Harold H. Anderson and Gladys L. Anderson (editors), An Introduction to Projective Techniques (Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey; Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1951), pp. 230-277. See also Alfred L. Kroeber, .nthropology Today, (Chicago, Illinois: The university of Chicago Press, 1953), pp. hiB-h29 for a review of the use of projective techniques in cross-cultural situations. ‘eleopold Bellak and Sonya S. Bellak, Children's Apperception That, (New York: C.P.S. Co. Box #2, Gracie Station) l9h9. (Set of ten cards and manual.) 3Samuel w. Hartwell, Max L. Hutt, Gwen Andrew, Ralph E. velton, "The Michigan Picture Test: Diagnostic and therapeutic possibilities of a new projective test for children," American Journal of OrthOpsychiatry, Vol. 21, (1951) pp. l2h-137. 28 the individual. The implicit assumption, then, is that when the individual tells his stories he is revealing himself. The importance of projection in relation to one's environment was stated by Sigmund Freud in these terms: "The projection of inner perceptions to the outside is a primitive mechanism which, for instance, also influences our sense-perceptions, so that it normally has the greatest share in shaping our outer world."1 Apperception has been defined as an "organism's meaningful interpretation of a perception." Accor ing to Abt and Bellak apper- ception contains the idea of distortion, for "purely cognitive per- ception remains a hypothesis, and.... very person distorts apper— ceptively, the distortion differing only in degret."2 Thus, the responses to the T A T are one's own individual distortions of the pictures in question. The rationale behind the use of the T A T for the study of group and cultural problems is that the discovery and analysis of inter- action-feeling units characteristic of the individual is parallel to the discovery and analysis of sentiments characteristic of the grgup being studied. William E. Henry3 emphasizes an important feature of group administration of the T.A T, that is; upon the completion of individual analyses one should be able to relate all of the cases and determine the aspects which all have in common. 1Sigmund Freud, Totem and Taboo, (New York: Moffet, Yard & 00-, 1919), P- 257» 2Lawrence Abt and IeOpold Bellak, Projective Psychology (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1950), p. 12. 3See William E. Henry in An Introduction to Projective Techniques, op, cit., pp. 258-277. 29 In what he terms the horizontal-thematicl approach, where one is primarily concerned with obtaining information about a Specific area, all responses that bear upon the particular area are analyzed excluding the interrelationships of all the elements within a single story. In this approach the whole collection of responses to each picture are analyzed as though they were one unit. The Clothing T A T, then, makes use of the horizontal-thematic approach in that only the rFSponses dealing with clothing were analyzed. Finally, the T A T as an instrument obviously avoids some of the misinterpretation that may be inherent in worded questions; nor, is the respondent limited to structural questions, for he is free to make-up whatever story each picture suggests. Statement of the Problem and Hypotheses Inasmuch as this study represents an investigation into a relatively new area of research there is no broad foundation of inter- woven hypotheses which can be tested at this time. lIt is rather an experimental contribution that the author wishes to make in the _ exploratory use of a new technique, a modified T.A T,2 for the evaluation of clothing behavior. With this exploratory emphasis in mind, the author will attempt to formulate a few simple statements in the form of hypotheses. Since the use of clothing is highly situational3 our hypotheses 1Ibid., p. 239. '28ee Appendix E. 3Two studies that approach clothing behavior from the situational point of view are: (1) W. H. Form and G. P. Stone, "The Social Significance of Clothing in Occupational Life," Michigan Agricultural Experiment 30 will be constructed in light of the specific situations pictured in the Clothing T A T. It is presumed that a better interpretation of the meaning of clothing or the dynamics of clothing behavior can be made in relation to specific social contexts, the situations pictured in the set of Clothing T A T cards. There are two axes around which this study will revolve: clothing awareness and the themes expressed concerning clothing behavior. The clothing awareness syndrome will include an attempt to measure the level of total clothing awareness including the awareness of certain clothing incongruities associated with age, sex, social status and formality of occasion. The approach to the study of clothing themes will include an analysis of those themes used for the identification of the role and status of unknown persons as well as the range of themes that are re- vealed by the use of clothing for various social situations. The general hypotheses to be considered are that social class and its related variables (occupation, income, education, organi- zational level, and magazine readership) will be positively related to clothing awareness; that age will be negatively related to clothing awareness; that rural-urban background will be positively related to ‘\ clothing awareness; and that verbal intelligence1 will be positively //' related to clothing awareness. Hypotheses will also be constructed ,/ in relation to thematic content with consideration given to age } Station Technical Bulletin, 21a, (1955) and (2) G P. stone and w. a. Form, "The local Community Clothing Market: A Study of the Social and Social Psychological Contexts of ShOpping," Michigan Agricultural $xPeriment Station Technical Bulletin, 262, (1957). ' 1See page L6for a description of the intelligence measure used in this study. ~ 31 themes, social class themes, occupational themes, sex themes and cultural themes. Specific hypotheses related to degree of clothing awareness are as follows: 1. Social Class and Related variables A. Social class The T A T Clothing Awareness Scores will be positively related to social class. Arthur Venerl found that men in "mediumrhigh" social class status groups had the greatest prOportion of persons who had received high clothing importance scores; Margaret Warning2 found that the upper middle class recognized fads, high style and were more concerned about Opinions of others regarding their daughters' clothes. It is proposed, then, that the broad category of upper class as used in this study will behave similarly to the "mediumrhigh" or upper middle classes and thus exhibit higher clothing awareness scores. B. Occupational level The T.A T Clothiggggwareness Scores will be positively related to occupational level. According to Ferm and Stone,3 white collar'worhers attached high importance to clothing in general while manual workers accorded less importance to clothing. White collar workers not only viewed clothing as a symbol capable of manipulation, but also were extremely concerned. about the attention others gave to their occupational attire. In a 1Arthur M. Vener, "Stratification Aspects of Clothing Importance," unpublished M. A. Thesis, Michigan State College, 1953, pp.83-81+. . 2Mhrgaret Warning, 22, 213:: p. 1&0. 3William Pom and Gregory P. Stone, 0p. cit., 81.11. 2147, p. 1+. 32 similar vein Rosencranzl found that wives of white collar workers were more aware of brand names, colors and styles and could give more detailed reasons for selecting clothing for their daughters. It is expected, therefore, that wives of white collar workers will have higher scores than wives of manual.workers. C. Income level The T A T Clothing Awareness Scores will be positively related to income level. ‘m"—.d_._.~_ 2 that mothers It was also noted in the study made by Rosencranz in the high income groups were generally more aware of their daughters' clothes. It is expected that women in the high income group will exhibit more clothing awareness in this study than women in the lower income groups. D. Educational level The T A T Clothing_Awareness Scores will be positively related to educational level. In an earlier study of clothing interest Rosencranz3 found that women at higher educational levels had higher interest in clothing scores. It is hypothesized that clothing awareness springs in part from clothing interest and will likewise be related to the educational level of those responding to the Clothing T A T. E. Organizational membership The T A T Clothing Awareness Scores I will be positively related to organization membership. As mentioned above Rosencranzh found that organizational membership lmry Lou Rosencranz, op. 9.3:: Bul. 268, p. 1+. 2Ibid., p. 1!. 3Mhry Lou Rosencranz, 92' £13., MLA. Thesis, p. 38. thid., p. LO. 33 1 also found that was significantly related to clothing interest; Vener girls who participate more in organizational activity tend to demonstrate greater clothing awareness. With these earlier studies in mind, it is suggested that those women who belong to several organizations will demonstrate greater clothing awareness than those who belong to few or no organizations. F. Magazine readership The T A T Clothing Awareness Scores will be positively related to magazine readership. Several recent studies mentioned above established a relation- ship between magazine readership and some facet of clothing interest or awareness. It is here prOposed that those who read a greater number of magazines will show a higher degree of clothing awareness than those who read few or no magazines. 2. Age That T A T ClothingAwareness Scores will be negatively related to age of informant. Stone and Form2 found that certain aspects of clothing behavior- were related to age. Rosencranz3 also found that age was signifi- cantly related to women's interest in clothing. It is hypothesized, then, that young women will produce higher clothing awareness scores . than older women. 3. Urban background The T A T Clothing_Awareness Scores will be positively related to rural-urban bachggound. lArthur Vener, _p, Eli?! Ph. D. Thesis, p. 62. aGregory P. Stone and William a. Form, gp.Ig£p., Bul. 2&6, p. 3h. 3Mbry'lou Rosencranz, pp. cit., M. A. Thesis, p. 3h. ' 3h The influence of urban life has pervaded all aspects of social behavior, but in this discussion the use of clothing as a means of identification in the anonymous city is of particular interest. Robert Park has said that "an_individual's status is determined to a con- siderable degree by conventional signs--by fashion and ‘front'-- and the art of life is largely reduced to....a scrupulous study of style "1 Therefore it is suggested that those who have grown and manners. up in an urban environment are more apt to be aware of clothing in appraising others than are those from rural environments, and thus have higher Clothing Awareness Scores derived from the clothing protocols. h. Intelligence The T A T Clotping Awareness scores will be posi- tively related to verbal intelligence. Inasmuch as the story-telling technique gives an advantage to the more observant and intelligent person, practically all studiese using T A T protocols attempt to measure and evaluate responses in terms of the individual's 3352a; intelligence. The T A T as an instrument differs from the questionnaire in that the latter contains already formulated questions that put words as well as ideas into the informant's mind, whereas the T.A T, a projective approach, forces the respondent to supply his own words and ideas. Since people differ in their abilities to be articulate, it seems lOgical to take note of 1Robert E. Park, "The City: Suggestions for the Investigation of Human Behavior‘ in the Urvan Environment," in Paul K Hatt and Albert J Reiss (editors), Reader in urban Sociology (Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1951), p. In. _ 2See Morris I. Stein, The Thematic Apperception Test, (Cambridge, Mass.: Addison-Wesley Press, Inc., 1955), p. HE; some type of verbal factor. It is prOposed that those informants with high verbal intelligence will produce high scores on the Clothing Awareness Scale. Specific hypotheses related to the content of "clothing themes." 1. Age Themes The age of the informant will be positively related to the use of age themes. An analysis of clothing magazines or clothing displays reveals the importance of clothing designed for youthful, active adults. This, of course, is a reflection of our preoccupation with an accent on youth in all spheres of life. As Max Lerner points out, "The most flattering thing you can say to an older American is that he 'doesn't look his age.'"1 It is suggested that older women will be more aware of themes relating to age and clothing than younger women. 2. Social Class Themes The use of social class and clothing themes will be positively related to social class of the informant. Since many studies have shown a relationship between social class and sensitivity toward clothing, it is proposed that the upper social strata will use social class and clothing themes more often than members of the lower strata. 3. Occupational Themes The use of occupational themes will be positively related to occupation of the informant. Form and Stonee, as mentioned above, found that the white collar lMax Lerner, America as a Civilation (New York: Simon and Schuster, 1957) p. 613. 2William Hz Form and Gregory P. Stone, 9p, cit., Bul. 2&7, p. h. 36 worker was very much more aware of his occupational clothing than was the manual.worker. Therefore, it is hypothesized that those respondents who belong to the white collar group will express occupation and clothing themes more frequently than those of lower occupational status. h. Sex Themes The educational level of the informant will be positively related to sex themes (i.e. the use of men's or women‘s clothing). Analyses of several types of modified T.A T records establish the importance of the recognition of roles characteristic of the two sexes.l It is expected that the higher the educational level of the subjects, the greater emphasis will be placed on clothing in relation to the male or female. 5. Cultural Themes. The educational level of the informant will be positively related to themes concerning clothing of another culture. Just as Henry2 reports that members of one society tend to share and be aware of the common cultural characteristics and demands of that society, it is preposed that the Vansburg women will be aware of the usual kind of clothing worn in mid-western United States. It is further proposed that women of high educational level will be more cOgnizant of any cultural variations. 1William E. Henry, "The Thematic Apperception Technique in the Study of Group and Cultural Problems," in Harold H. Anderson and Gladys L. Anderson (editors), An Introduction to Projective Techniques (Engle- wood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc., l95l), p. 261. 2 Ibid., p. 259. CHAPTER TWO PROCEDURE One of the purposes of this research in its broadest aSpect was to explore the possibilities of a modified T.A T--the Clothing T A T. In order to more easily compare this technique with other types of clothing research, several hypotheses were formulated as bases for analysis. In this chapter consideration is given to the develop- ment of the instrument used in this study, the description of the sample, the development of the scoring method for analyzing protocols, and the measurement of variables and statistical techniques. Development of the Instrument Used in This Study The modification of the T.A T used in this study was a product of committee thinking.1 The committee was particularly attracted to the flexibility of the T A T as an instrument and was obviously influenced by such statements as the following: I "The principal feature of the T A T that makes it useful is its flexibility in terms of varying conceptual frameworks. It is suggested especially that researchers experiment with conceptional frameworks of variables appropriate to the scientific problem of their interest, and with the adaptability of the T.A T to those concepts. It is felt, particularly, that the inclusion of sociological concepts and the abandonment 1The Committee responsible for/this proJect includes: Gregory P. Stone, William H. Form, Duane L. Gibson, Charles P. Loomis, Charles R. .Hbffer, and John useem of the Department of Sociology & Anthro- pology; Hazel B. Strahan and Mary Iou Rosencranz of the Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts. The actual drawings were done by Margaret C Stone. Credit for the initial idea for the Clothing T A T must be given to Gregory P. Stone. 38 of the notion that the T A T is relevant only to idiosyncratic elements will prove of inestimable value in human relations research. The Clothing T A T consists of seven drawings depicting incon- \ gruities between clothing and other attributes of the characters in the drawings such as age, sex or build; incongruities between the clothing f of two characters; or incongruities between clothing and the background f in the drawing. The drawings were designed so that details associated with current fashions were not emphaSized. .In fact, most of the / clothing pictured could have been worn any time during the past thirty; ,/' years. The drawings were first pre-tested with students and faculty at Michigan State University; a second pre-test was done in Marshall, Michigan with a sample selected from lower, middle, and upper class informants very similar to the one to be studied. This "trial run" was used for testing the effectiveness of the pictures as well as training interviewers, who memorized standardized instructions2 for presenting the pictures and for probing at certain specific places during the interview. a {3'4 The results of the pre-tests were discussed by the members of ~the research committee who recommended three kinds of revisions. l) The order of showing the pictures be changed so that the first card would be both easy to discuss and inoffensive to most informants. Card seven was left as the last card in that peOple either liked it least or felt that it was difficult to comprehend. 2) Two pictures were lSee William E. Henry in An Introduction to Projective Techniques, 0p. cit. p. 277. 2See Appendix C for a copy of the instructions for adminis- tration of the T A T. 39 re-drawn. Card five was changed to make the boyish character less boyish; in facwcthirteen out of eighteen people called character twelve a boy on the pre-test. Card six was changed to picture the "man of the house" more clearly. In the original drawing the poorly dressed man was standing in the foreground. The revised card six placed the well-dressed man in the most prominent position. 3) It was decided that all interviews should be tape recorded to get the actual words of the informant on record in order to obtain the complete response and to prevent any interviewer bias in re-wording the responses. Specific descriptions of the revised set of drawings1 are as ‘0 follows: Card I. A group of young people (boys clad in T-shirts and dungarees; girls in sweaters and skirts) are standing in front of a building entrance. In the center of the scene is a young girl wearing a black dress, high heel shoes, and black gloves. Card II. Two adolescent boys are engaged in discussion. One is wearing a black suit, shirt and tie; the other is wearing a sport shirt and slacks. Card III. A woman, about forty years old and somewhat plump is walking " down the street clad in a sweater, skirt, and bobby socks with Open sandals. A young man, clad in shirt and trousers, glances at her as he enters a building. Card IV. The scene is a kitchen of a small "working class" house.~ A man, clad apprOpriately for the scene is leaving the table where two well-dressed women (one young--about the man's ‘ age; the other older) are seated. Card V. Two young women (one dressed in very "feminine" clothing; the other in "masculine" clothing) are engaged in a dis- cussion. ' ISee Appendix E for a copy of the pictures. -— Card VI. The scene is an "upper income” home. A man whose clothing fits the surroundings is standing and talking with a seated couple who are pgorly dressed. Card VII. The scene is vague. Three men are talking. One is dressed in a dark suit; the second, rather stocky, is dressed in a sport shirt and slacks; the third is clad in a Jacket and) . skirt. 1‘ The revised Clothing T A T took from thirty minutes to an hour and a half to administer. The test was given as the last part of a battery of questionnaires used in the total Clothing Study. Hewever, the Clothing T A T was given in a separate interview and the informants were simply told that they were going to be shown a series of pictures-- clothing was hot mentioned in the introductory remarks by the interviewer. After the informant had responded to all the cards, each card was again presented 10 the infermant, who was then told, "Those were very interesting stories you told me. I am going to show you the cards again briefly one at a time and would like you to tell me what there was about each card that suggested the story to you." If the informant had difficulty in stating the particular element that suggested the story she was then asked, "What did you think was the most outstanding thing about this picture when you looked at it?" The Sample The Clothing T.A T was administered to 82 married women in Vansburg,l a small city in south-central Michigan. Vansburg has a 4 population of approximately 10,000. These informants were selected by! a stratified-random technique in that the occupations of all married men in the city were classified and ranked according to Warner's2 lVansburg is a pseudonym used to preserve the anonymity because of the personal nature of many responses. 2W Lloyd Werner, Marchia Meeker and Kenneth Eels, Social Class in America, (Chicago, Illinois: Science Research Associates, l9h9) p. 62. seven point scale of occupational prestige, then, from each stratum cases were drawn at random in prOportion to the total nutter of married men within each occupational stratum. Approximately half of the sample fell in the first four categories of warner's occupational scale. This grouping will be considered as an Upper Occupational group for purposes of analysis, while the last three categories will be labeled as the Lower Occupational group. TABLE I shows the distribution of cases when classified according to warner's occupational scale. TABLE I DISTRIBUTION OF CASES ACCORDING TO WARNER'S OCCUPATIONAL SCALE Warner's Occupational Prestige Scale Number Percent Stratum one ' 8 9.7 Stratum two 8 9.7 Stratum three 9 10.9 Stratum four . 1h 17.1 Stratum five 12 lh.6 Stratum six 16 19 . 5 Stratum seven 11 l3.h Retired h h.8 Tetal 82 100.00 ======‘ M Deve10pment of the Scoring Method USed in this Study The first concern is the deve10pment of a scoring system centered around the design of a Clothing Awareness Score for each protocol. To facilitate the construction of a scoring system each T A T response was transposed from the recording tape to typewritten pages. All type- written lines that were comments about the clothing of the various characters were underlined in colored pencil for easy identification. A2 The clothing awareness score was compiled by a simple addition of the following components: 1. The number of typewritten lines of clothing comments. 2. The number of characters whose clothing is mentioned. 3. The number of cards about which the informant stated that clothing gave her the idea for her story. A. The number of clothing incongruities that were mentioned. 5. The number of themes that were expressed in relation to clothing. Measurement of Variables l. The Dependent variables A. Clothing Awareness Score As stated above the Clothing Awareness Score was given a numerical value. The addition of typewritten lines of clothing comment included both the initial comments and those comments that were made as the result of probe questions. Partial lines of comment as one-half a line, two-thirds of a line, etc. were also added. In this particular modification of the T A T there are nineteen characters pictured plainly enough to evoke clothing responses. A point was added to the Clothing Awareness Score for each character whose clothing was mentioned. Card I contains the following figures: Character 1 (the boy on the left in slacks and T shirt), Character 2 (the girl on the left center in a dark one-piece dress), Character 3 (the girl on the right with skirt and sweater) and Character h (the boy at right wearing slacks and Jacket). 8 Card II pictures Character 2 (the boy on the left in a dark suit) and Character 6 (the boy on the right in slacks and light shirt). 1+3 Card III has Character 7 (heavy-set woman in skirt and sweater) and Character 8 (male figure with slacks and shirt). Card IV contains Character 9 (a young woman in a dark dress on the left), Character 10 (a male figure in Shirt sleeves) and Character 11 (a female figure in a printed dress). Card V pictures Character 12 (a female figure with mannish clothes) and Character 13 (a female figure with light dress and large hat). Card V1 is made up of Character lh (a male standing dressed in suit and tie, Character 15 (a male figure in T shirt and slacks), and Character 16 (a female figure in dress and hat). Card VII contains Character 17 (a male figure in dark clothes) Character 18 (a heavy-set male in shirt and trousers) and Character l9 (a male figure in skirt,_Jacket and sandals). Points were also added for each clothing incongruity noted by the informant. The clothing incongruities depicted are: 1. figs, (Cards, I, II, III and VI are most obvious; cards IV and and V can be interpreted as having age incongruities.) 2. §pgpug (Cards IV, and‘VI were designed to show a status incongruity; Cards V and VIIcould also be considered as showing status incongruities.) 3- §g§ (Cards V and VII were designedgwith sex incongruities, i.e. masculine clothes on a female figure and feminine clothes on a male figure.) h. Formal Wear (All seven cards could be interpreted as showing a formal vs. informal incongruity.) 5. Cultural (Card VII could be considered as a picture of a cultural incongruity.) uh Inasmuch as the informant was asked to state what suggested the story for each card, points were added to the Clothing Awareness Score corresponding to the number of cards in which clothing furnished the idea or one for her story. The number of clothing themes mentioned by each informant was also added to her Awareness Score. These themes could appear in either original story or in response to probe questions. B. Clothinnghemes Inasmuch as this experimental use of a modified T A T is being conducted for the first time, it would be of interest to note the number and the range of types of themes used to explain clothing behavior. Indeed, the thematic content of T A T protocols is generally conceived to be of first importance. It was expected that many themes would be expressed in terms of identifying characters in relation to status, age, sex, occupation or other social situation. Themes would also probably reveal attitudes toward the kinds of clothes that are "daring," or "decent" or "prOper." Certainly, themes would be employed to relate one character to another or to relate characters to the background. 2. The Independent Variablesl A. Social Class and Related variables- 1. Social Class The Index of Status Characteristics prOposed by W. Lloyd Warner and his associates2 was used.with some modifications. The four 1Tor the relationships between the independent variables, see Table XIVIII. 2See W. Lloyd Warner, mrchia Meeker and Kenneth Eels, pp, 2333’ p. 6%. . )45 components used with their corresponding weights in parentheses were occupation (h), source of income (3), house type (3), and dwelling area (2). Subjects were then classified into an upper and lower social class. This index is, of course, a crude index, but it is the best index available for analyzing these data. 2. Occupation Since it was expected that many responses would deal with occupational theses, occupation was also analyzed apart from the social class index. In general, wives of white colLar workers were compared with wives of manual workers. 3- m To determine the influence of income upon the dependent variables, distinctions were made between those earning less than $3000 a year, those earning from $3000 to $h999, and those earning $5000 or more. h. Education > To gauge the influence of education upon general clothing awareness, the kind and number of clothing incongruities, and the range of clothing themes the informants were grouped into two groups-~those who had not finished high school and those who had four years of high school or more. 5. Participation in Organizations A measure of participation in organizations was used to detect variations relating to membershipimlvoluntary associations. In- formants were grouped as follows: belonging to none, one, or two or more organizations. 6. Magazine Readership To measure the impact of mass society upon the respondents, #6 distinctions were made between those who reported reading none, one or two types of magazines, and those who read three or more types. B-Ass A distinction between those under forty years of age and those over forty years was used to divide the group into age categories. C. Size of Community Since the degree of urbanization was found to be an important variable in an earlier study of families in this community, the index used was a division between those born on farms and small towns less than 2500, and those born in cities of more than 2500 population. D. Verbal Intelligence Utilization of some measure of intelligence is the usual pattern for analyzing both the original T A T protocols and in studies using a modified T A T1. In this case the intelligence index will be similar to those generally employed. A verbal intelligence score will be made up of these components: 1) polysyllabic words commonly used, 2) use of many adjectives, 3) use of many adverbs, h) compound or complex sentence structure, 5) good grammar, 6) simple story or plot in five or more stories, 7) good, original story in five or more. The highest score would be a score of seven points. 'Scores of one to four were considered low scores; a score of five, a middle range score; and a score of six or seven, a high score. . lSeejMorris I. Stein, _p, SEE“: p. 5h. 1+7 Statistical Techniques Although the testing of the hypotheses is of secondary importance in this exploratory study, some means must be used to determine whether or not the observed relationships between the variables could have occured merely by chance. The main tool for testing such relation— ships was the chi-square test.1 In this study a probability of .05 or less was considered to be significant. Because the expected cell frequencies were small (less than 200), they were corrected for continuity by applying a correction recommended by George W. Snedecor.2 This correction consists of a reduction by one-half unit every deviation of an observed from an expected cell frequency in any chi- square test where there is only one degree of freedom. The test for significance of difference between percentages3 was employed to determine significance of relationships revealed between T A T Card preferences and independent variables. Validity and Reliability The usual meaning ascribed to validity in social-psychological terms is the accuracy with which prediction can be made from a particular test instrument to other areas of behavior. In this case it is possible to compare test performance (as shown by the Clothing T A T) with the battery of schedules used in the total "Clothing Study." For instance, the clothing awareness scores of upper class women can be compared 1'See Margaret J. Hagood and Daniel 0. Price, 92. cit., pp. 365-370. 2George w. Snedecor, Statistical Methods: Applied to Experiments ingégriculture and BiolOgy, (Ames: Iowa State College Press, 1936), p. 22. 3Vernon Davies, "Table of Significance of Differences Between Per- centages," Pullman, washington Experiment Station Circular, No. 102, 1950. with similar probes into clothing attitudes obtained by the various questionnaires. There are expected to be many areas of agreement between the thematic method and the questionnaire method. Another important attempt to secure valid responses was the refinement of the pictures after the several pretests. The Judgment of experts in the persons of the committee was used to establish a more nearly valid final instrument. The chief goal in relation to reliability might be how well a test can predict itself over time. A technique is said to have reliability if it gives the same results consistently.l Comparisons will have to be made with subsequent administration of the test using the same system here developed for scoring the protocols.2 One important aspect in relation to the reliability of any projective technique is the agreement of different scorers or inter- preters working with the same protocols. One would not eXpect high reliability from very complex scoring systems, nor from systems that are too subjective. It has been found that scoring systems for the T A T have relatively high reliability when they are simple in number of categories and when they are as objective and concrete as possible.3 In relation to the delimination of themes, i.e., what constitutes an age theme or what constitutes a social class theme, the author checked her interpretations with independent interpretations of several members ¥Margaret J. Hagood and Daniel 0. Price, Statistics for Spoi- olo ists, (New York: Henry Holt and Company, 1952), p. 1&0. 2Note: Since this administration of the Clothing T A T was combined with a battery of clothing questionnaires, one might expect total clothing awareness to be lower if the Clothing T A T were given by itself. 3See Martin Mayman and Bernard Kutner, "Reliability in Analyzing Thematic Apperception Test Stories," Journal of Abnormal PsychOIOgy, Vol. he, (19h7), pp. 365-368. #9 of the research committee. A comparison of these interpretations revealed great similarity in the content of theme analysis. CHAPTER III FINDINGS RELATED TO CLOTHING AWARENESS One of the main considerations in this study is the exploration of the possible uses of a modified T A T--a Clothing T A T. Intthat clothing was frequently’used as a guide to the role and status of the characters pictured in the Clothing T A T, several aspects of clothing awareness were investigated; the amount of clothing comment, the aware- ness of clothing incongruities, the awareness of clothing of specific characters, and the number of cards in.whdch clothing gave'the idea for the story. In order to compare one protocol with another, Clothing Awareness Scores1 were compiled. In this chapter there will be a discussion of the various aspects of clothing awareness, a general deliminationebf.the range of scores and a discussion of the relation- shipsybetwien'the scores and the independent variables. Number of Lines of Clothing Comment The average number of lines of clothing comment was 26 lines or about one-fourth of the total remarks made by the average informant. Pifty percent of the comments of five women were clothing comments; ‘approximately onedthird of the comments of the twenty women with highest scores were clothing comments;'only one-tenth of the comments of the ' twenty low scoring women were clothing csmments. ‘ A separate evaluation of lines of clothing comment permits one to compare the relative amount of comment that each card commanded from lSee‘ChaptenII for-a description of the scoring method- See also ' ’ Appendix D. 51 this particular group of respondents. It is interesting to observe that the card evoking the greatest number of clothing comments pictured two women (Card V) whereas the card yielding the fewest lines of clothing comment portrayed two men (Card II). Indeed, all cards having more men than women ranked low in amount of clothing comment. (See IIGURE I). Specifically, the number of lines of clothing comment were as follows: Card V - #98 lines; Card III - All lines; Card I - 305 lines; Card IV - 301 lines; Card VII - 272 lines; Card VI - 2&2 lines; and Card II - 161 lines. There is a rather wide gap between comments on Card V and Card II inasmuch as the former has three times as many lines of comment as the latter. The distribution of amount of clothing comment then seems to suggest that women are more likely to comment about the clothing of other women than about the clothing of male characters in a projective technique such as the Clothing T A T. Clothing Incongruities Age Incoggggities Since this particular piece of research is an exploratory study, it is of considerable interest to note findings related to clothing . incongruities. On the whole, it was possible to visualize clothing and age incongruities on the first six cards; collectively speaking, infor- mants actually noted age incongruities on all but Card VII. Close inspec- tion of TABLE III shows that the largest number of age and clothing incongruities were designated in stories for Card III and the least number mentioned in stories about Card I. Of the total sample, approximately 2% saw a clothing and age incongruity for Card I, 32$ for Card 11, 38$ for Card III, 27$ for Card IV, 23$ for Card V w____n c I (305) FIGURE I TOTAL NUMBER OF LINES OF CIDTHING L-n COWENT FOR EACH CARD c II (161) L__ _ .L_. C III (#11) . c IV (301) L... I -L—4' c v (A98) C VI (2142) (272) .L___4. 0 VII 52 53 and 10% for Card VI. Moreover, the pattern of noting age incongruities for the male sex as well as that of the female does not coincide with the finding in relation to number of lines of clothing comment. The second largest number of women noted age incongruities on Card II in contrast to the least number of lines of clothing comment on Card II. Examples of age incongruities in the informants' phraseology . are given below for cards in which 20% or more of the informants made such comments. Card II (Age) "He might be a pastor or professor or something....Because he's wearing a suit instead of a shirt sleeves like the boy definitely indicates that he is a visitor to the raom and not an inhabitant :pf it . " "The older man. The one in the dark suit and cuff links. Unless it's a, it might be a newcomer to the college. A mama's boy, imbued with all the righteous things in life as expressed by his costume." "That's a father and son. dell, because the son is younger and ....and the father is dressed older, like an older man." "That looks like an elderly fellow trying to explain something to this one....He's dressed more like an older fellow." Card III (Age) "It seems to me that the teenage boy is looking at the lady and saying, you're too old to dress that way. She looks like she was maybe forty-five and she's wearing clothes that a girl of fifteen would look a lot better in....She may have seen girls dressed that way. Thought they looked nice so she would try it." "At her age she should be someone's grandmother. Maybe she is. She sure doesn‘t look the part. In fact if I were to allow myself to be unkind I'd say she was a street walker. Sort of shocking. It‘s bad enough to find it in a younger woman, it leaves one with a very unsavory feeling looking at another woman at her-age in a get-up like that." "Her sweater, skirt and bobby sox are completely out of place for her age." ' 5h "I don't think that woman is prOperly dressed for her age, and that boy is making fun of her. She's trying to be a laughing stock or is the laughing stock of that community." Card IV (Age) "They might be just home from a tea or card party, but, well the daughter is dressed more for evening....I think she's dressed too extreme for her age.” "I don't know what kind of an outfit the girl has on. They're telling her she's too young to wear a low cut dress, and a ribbon around her neck." "She's young and inexperienced. She's trying to make out some- thing more than she really is. She's trying to put on such a front that she isn't going to make a hit with the boy's mother, who looks to be a down to the ground person." "The mother's disapproving of most likely that low-cut dress on her young daughter or maybe she disapproves of who she is going with." Card V (Age) "This girl is very hard-looking to me, if I may use that word. Both by her-dress and....the other girl's younger, although this girl could be dressed the same--could be dressed almost the same age." "I definitely thought this was an older and younger sister. She's more or less tomboyish there. She hasn't reached the age where clothes mean a great deal to her. The other's more sophisti- cated and probably been away from home. I think she's a little bit astonished at seeing her sister in that get-up. She's looking at her and thinking, 'Oh my, she‘s really sophisticated.'" "Well, the older sister might be telling her to dress different or something. Being that she's growing up, looks like she has more of a boy's clothing on and she shouldn't. Well, she's thinking what she wears is her business and what her sister wears is hers." "Well, that's just one gal all dressed up and the other one brush haircut and wash clothes, looks younger than the other one.... I don't believe that the other girl is real dumb, just wait 'til she gets a little older. When she starts dating and going out, she'll probably be more conscious of the clothes she wears." Another interesting dimension of clothing and age incongruities is the fact that for Card IV there were four significant relationships to the 55 variables tested. Social class, educational level, organizational member- ship and magazine readership were each associated at the five percent level or less. (TABLE II). The only other card evoking responses at that level was C-IV--in this case occupation was significantly related to an age inccngruity. Status Incongruities Status incongruities could have been observed on cards four, five, and seven. Rural-urban background was significantly related to status incongruities on C-IV; both income and verbal intelligence were related to status incongruities on C-VI. (See TABLE II AND TABLE IV). It is of special interest to note the range of status and clothing incongruities for these three cards. Informants have widely different means of weaving status incongruities into the fabrics of their stories. Card IV (Status)l "Well, might be that these two women are in different classes-- the one on the left is definitely dressed to represent a higher income family, and this lady on the right is more moderate income family. The home is obviously a poorer home than either of these two ladies, I would say." "Half the picture portrays one thing and the other half another to me,--this young lady is dressed higher than what sle should be in this home." "It looks like the class that can barely get along and can smile about it, and somebody with a little bit more trying to tell them.what‘s what. The ritzy woman is on the right; the one on the left is dressed nice but you can still see the difference between the two. There's something about her dress that looks like a hand—me-down, it isn't becoming to her, but this dress is becoming to this woman (on the right). She knows how to wear clothes. This one here, on the left, ain't had a chance to learn to wear clothes." ‘7 1Thirty-four percent of the respondents discussed a status incon- gruity for Card IV. 56 Ho. Hoo. - - ca. - - - Ho. Ho. - - - om. - ooaowaaaoan assess - - - - - - - - - oH. no. - - - - eqsonwnoem oeste-nssm - - - - - on. - - - - - - - - - ewe n . 0H . .. .. OH. n n u .. .. mo. n u u manmhmumom can name: OH . om . i u u u .. u .. n u do . .. u n magma annex . HmaOHpsanmwao Ho. - - - - - - - - - - Ho. - - om. consensus - - - - - no. es. - - mo. - - - - - osoosH - om. - mo. - om. - om. -V om. - 0H. no. - om. soapsasooo Ho. - - - - no. - - - - - Ho. - - - amuse amnion HHH-o HH>-o >-o >Hio HH-o H-o HH>-o >-o HH>-o H>-o >H-o H>-o >H-o HHH-u HH-o seem wmww Huston sum nephew ow< manganese Ir, , mmoaoaaansposev noapssnmsoonH meanness gamma; GHBUmHmm g mmeHDmozoozH ago me E»; g mBOHadHoowmal ho gm HH Ema... TABLE III PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF AWARENESS OF AGE INCONGRUITIES IN RELATION TO SELECTED VARIABLES 57 Variables Agewlncongruities C-I C-II C-III C-Iv C-V c-VI N 1» 9676136 Upper Social Class 0 38.5 h6.2 35.9 30.8 20.5 (Nz39) Lower Social Class h.7 25.6 3hg9 18.6 16.3 0 ‘(N=h3) Upper Occupational Level 5 . 25.6 -h1.0 u1.o 25.6 17.9 (N=39) Lower Occupational Level 0 38.5 ; h3.6 15.h 20.5 2.6 3(Ns39) Upper Income Level 0 h3.8 56.3 37.5 37.5 25.0 (N.l6) Middle Income Level 5.0 27.5 35.0 25.0 22.5 7.5 (Nsho) Lower Income level 0 30.8 138.2 23.1 15.h 3.8 31N=2613 upper Educational Level 2.2 39.1 hl.3 32.6 26.1 17.h (N-h6) Lower Educational Level 2.8 22.2 38.9 I9.h l9.h 0 (N536) High Organizational Membership 0 39.u 36.h 36.h 30.3 21.2 (N=33) Low organizational Membership h.1 26.5 38.8 20.h 18.h 2.0 (N=h9) High Magazine Readership h.5 38.6 h5.5 36.h 22.7 18.2 (Nahu) Low Magazine Readership, O 23.5 ~38.2 17.6 23p5 O (N=3h)fi Age ' Uhder ho 2.2 30.u h1.3 28.3 26.1 6 5 (N=h6) ho and over 3.3, 36.7 h3.3 2617 23.3_ 23 3 (N530) Rural-urban Background . ' Rural 6.5 25.8 32.3 22.6 22.6 6 5 (N=31) urban o 3h.o hh.7__31;9 23.u 10 6g_(N=h7) Verbal Intelligence High Verbal Factor 3.7 uu.u u8.l 25.9 22.2 18.5 (N=27) Medium Verbal Factor 3.1 25.8 h8.u hl.9 25.8 9.7 (N=32) IDw Verbal Factor 0 2 .1 21.7 8.7 21.7 0 (N=23) Total Sample 2.u 31.7 37.8 26.8 23.2 9.8 (N-82) Note: No age incongruities were noted for Card VII. 58 "The mother looks as if she had breeding and the girl looks as though she might be a girl that didn‘t quite know how to dress....It's a low necked dress and she is a little over dressed. She doesn't look to be the type the mother is. He is a working class man-~just going to work." 1 Card V (Status) "Maybe they're twins, talking about fall clothes. The one looks like she had a position of some kind. She has money to afford nice clothes. The woman on the left is probably not too well off." . . "Well, these two girls are not anything alike in their dress. One is dressed nicely and the other very plain. The one on the right is dressed as though she's going to a party or something. This other one looks as if she's just either come out of a factory or a garden-~maybe a farm....If they have been good friends, it looks as though they're drifting apart, because of their difference in dress, it would appear." "She's neatly dressed, the lady, from what the boy is; it looks like he came from a underprivileged family and she came from a -more provided family....She might help him and Show him and help him fix himself up to something much more appropriate." "She might have told her that she would get more farther if she would think more of her appearance she would....well, you have to have clothes. It looks like she might have, have money to afford them.‘ The other girl is probably just getting by. You see the regular sport clothes which she wears are cheaper in price than the other kind." Card VI (Status)2 "This is very confusing. Background is that of a lovely home, the man on the left is evidently the manager of the house-~the lady caller has me a little confused....It's an exceptionally nice home and definitely the woman on the right comes from a very moderate home. A very tailored dress....I don't think she's at home in that environment." "Well the man on the left looks like the owner of the home. And the way the home is furnished looks like he might own a business of some kind. He's well dressed. An ordinary worker wouldn't have a home like that." /- . lTWenty-four percent noted a status incongruity for Card V. 2Forty—three percent mentioned-a status incongruity for Card VI. 59 "She isn't dressed like a lady, to be of the upper crust. But what I would consider the father, he is, by his clothes and the way he wears them. now he wears those clothes just grand. She isn't fixed up like th' middle or better class of people. She looks to me like she don't know how to wear clothes." "The mother looks terribly worried; she looks as though she was a hard working woman of meager means....Her hat is very meager and her dress looks as though it might be a very cheap housedress. One so cheap you couldn't buy it today. Her stockings looks as though they might be cotton and low heeled very cheap looking shoes. The father looks as though he might have overall pants and a sweatshirt and he just came from work....he doesn't look as though he was dressed to go out." ’ Sex Incongruities In this study a sex incongruity refers to male clothing worn by females or feminine clothing worn by males. Card five pictured the former incongruity while card seven pictured the latter. Although neither of these incongruities showed a statistically significant relationship to the variables tested there was a negative association between the incongruity on C-V and occupation and a positive one between the incongruity on C-VII and income. (TABLE II). Percentage differences for sex incon- gruities are given in TABLE V. Here are some ways in which informants phrased the sex and clothing incongruities they described for cards five and seven. Card V (Sex)1 "Is this a girl or ? It needs a haircut if it's a boy.... I donft know, this seems to look more like a girl--she's evidently the mannish type of a gal and the other is the feminine type of a gal and they just would never get along....She's wearing a sweater rather than a feminine dress and a tie which is important to her looks." ' lFerty-two percent mentioned the sex incongruity on Card V. TABLE IV PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF AWARENESS TO STATUS INCONGRUITIES IN RELATION TO SELECTED VARIABLES Variables Status Incongruities C-IV C-V C—VI 02VII N i 96 96 w 1» Upper Social Class “316 20-5 53-8 7-7 (Nab?) . Lower Social Class gg5.6 27.9 32.6 _p7,0 (N.h3) Upper Occupational Level h1.0 25.6 53.8 5.1 (N.39) Lower Occupational Level 28.2 17.9 33.3 ,7,7 (N-39) Upper Income Level 56.3 18.8 68.8 18.8 (n.16) Middle Income Level 22.5 h2.5 30.0 2.5 (N.h0) lower Income Level 38.5 26.9 h6.2 7.7_ 4(N-26) Upper Educational Level 37.0 23.9 hl.3 8.7 (N-ho) Iower Educational level 30.6 25.0 uu.u 5.6 (H.361 High Organizational Membership h5.5 21.2 h8.5 9‘1 (N=33) Low Organizational Membership 26.5 26.5 38.8 6.1 (Nst9) High Magazine Readership h3.2 18.2 h3.2 h.5 (Nehh) Low Magazine Readership, 23.5 26g5_ hh.l 11.8 (Ne3h) Age under to 39.1 21.7 h3.5 h 3 (Nsh6) ho and Over 30.0 h6.7 h6.7 lo 0 (Ns3g)_ Rural-Urban BaCkground Rural 16.1 32.3 29.0 9 7 (N231) urban uu.7 lh.9 55.3 6 h (psh7) Verbal Intelligence High Verbal Factor no.7 29.6 63.0 18.5 (N=27) Medium Verbal Factor 37.5 31.3 M6.9 0 (N=32) Low Verbal Factor 21.7 8.7 13.0 h.3 (N=23) [._.] l\) 4:- 4r TOtal sapple 3h. h2.7 7.3 3(Ns82) TABLE‘V PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF AwARENESS T0 SEX INCONCRUITIES IN RELATION To SELECTED VARIABLES Sex Incongruities C-V C-VII N Upper Social Class 33.3 35.9 (Ne39) Lower Social Class h8.8 23.3 ng3) Upper Occrpltional Level 33.3 33.3 (Ng39) Lower Occppational Level 53.8 25.6 (N339) Upper Income Level h3.8 56.3 (N-l6) Middle Income Level 12.5 25.0 (Nsho) Lower Income Level h2.3§ 19.2 (Nz26) Upper Educational Level 37.0 28.3 (Nsh6) lower Educational Level h7.2 30.6 _(N=36) High Organizational Membership 39.h 33.3 (N=33) Low Organizational Membership» h2.9 26.5 (Nsh9) High Magazine Readership 38.6 33.3 (thh) Low Magazine Readership Ah.l 23:5, (Ns3h) Age under to 37.0 32.6 (Nsh6) 1+0 and Over 1.6.7 30.0 (11:30) Rural-urban Background Rural 51.6 19.h (Ns3l) Urban 38 .3 36 .2 (N= 117) Verbal Intelligence High Verbal Factor no.7 29.6 (Na27) Medium Verbal Factor 50.0 31.3 (N=32) Low verbal Factor _30.h 26.1 (Ns23) Tbtal Sample h1.5 29.3 (ps82) 62 "I'm not sure whether it‘s a boy or a girl. .Well, I think probably two girls because of the curves. Two girls dressed differently.” "The one on the left is telling the other one she likes her new hat, and She's probably wishing she had one. And the other one is pitying her because she's got a boyish shirt and it looks like a button-down-the-front sweater. She's thinking that the poor thing doesn't know how to show off her charms. If she had a hat and a dress like that She‘s look better." "Well, I believe these are two women. Both dressed to extremes. One is dressed like a man and the other is dressed to the other extreme. Big hat, hair not prOperly done, beads too big for a tailored dress....They're neither of them dressed to entice the fellow, at least. I think they will both lose out because they could never get a date dressed the way they are." Card VII (Sex)l "Frankly, I can‘t tell.whether this is a girl or a boy. I would suspect perhaps she might be a girl-a ekirt--her Shoes--that peculiar hairdo." "Well, I still don't know which it is--a man or a woman. Of course, it has a skirt on, but it--he has a Jacket that makes you think of a Chinese, and their sandals on the feet. Whether that's what it is, I don't know, but the hair looks almost like a man's haircut, but some women do have their hair cut that way. It's a real puzzle." "I don't know whether that's a man or a woman, but it seems to be dressed rather Odd and-a-that could be what the argument is about." "Can’t tell whether one is a woman or a man. The one on the right. Anyway, her shoes and feet look like she was a woman. I guess maybe it's a woman." Formal Incongruities All seven cards could have been interpreted as having formal versus informal incongruities. In each case~the clothing of one or more characters is much more formal looking (dressed-up) than that of other characters in the cards. TheSe differences apply to clothing of both males and females. Females are obviously more dressed up in cards lTwenty-nine percent noted a sex incongruity on Card VII 63 one, four, and five. Males are more dressed up in cards two, six, and seven. Formal incongruities on C-I were Significantly related to social class and income. This type Of incongruity was also significant on C-IV in respect to occupation. (See TABLES II and VI). Again examples of informant's comments are given below for those cards in which 20% or more persons noted the incongruity. ' 1 Card I (Formal) "The one in the dark dress doesn't look like she came from school with gloves on and everything. Shefs all dressed up and the other is dressed in a skirt and sweater....The one in the black dress and the gloves and the bracelet--she's a little over dressed, I would say. I mean the rest of them seem to be in skirts and sweaters. These all look like collegiates and she really looks out of place." "Her first day at school--she's very pretty, but over-dressed. The rest of the girls are rather envious, giving her the once-over and they don't approve of the way she's dressed; dress with a low neck, and high heeled shoes. All the fellows are giving her the eye." "This one girl is very over-dressed and it looks like she's trying to Show off in front of a group of high school children. Of course, the other girls are dressed in sweaters and skirts and bobby-sox. Nbst young girls do. Well she's kind of making herself very silly, when she gets home she's going to feel foolish about it." Card II (Formal)2 "This boy looks as if he were in the daytime and the other, as if he were still in the condition he was in the night before. His Clothes are more the type a young man would wear in the evening and this one's dressed in the morning. The one on the left doesn't look very neatly dressed but I think he must have been out all night.” "I thought he was the father--perhaps, the dark and the light clothing, more formal type of clothing here and sport type here. The one on the left is more formal-~shoes and collar." l Mentioned by 56% of the informants. 2Thirty-eight percent noted the formal incongruity on Card II. 6h "The boy is dressed as a school boy would be dressed. The teacher is dressed differently. He has a shirt on, a tie, a vest and a coat." "Well, he's all dressed up in his clothes-~a suit. This boy, the boy on the right is arguing that he shouldn‘t wear a suit, that he should wear more comfortable clothes." ' Card IV (Formal)1 "Well, it might be that the mother is saying that the daughter's dress is too low-necked and isn't suitable for the occasion. The mother seems to be quite conservatively dressed. She would probably object to the more extreme style.....8he might compromise and put on a Jacket or something I suppose." "It might be a farm mother dropping in on her son and his wife and finding her very foolishly dressed, ready to go out and he's got on working clothes....The young Lady on.the left, is a ....in evening clothes and the man Just home from work." "WEIl, they're in a kitchen that doesn't look too tidy, and she's dressed in a dress as though she were going to a party?- it looks like a party dress, and he has Just his work clothes on, with the sleeves rolled; certainly they are not dressed anywhere near alike. I think she should be dressed in an appropriate manner as a housewife." "well, 'Betty' evidently is dressed to go out but she's setting over a checkeret tablecloth, in the kitchen, with a very messy Open cupboard above her....She‘s ready to go out but I don't think the other two are ready to go yet. Their clothes look it.” 2 Card v (Formal) "Whether they are suitably dressed or not depends on.where they are going of course. dhat they are going to do. Maybe a date to the drive—in and it doesn't matter what they wear." "One girl says to the other, 'you haven't dressy enough clothes on--you really should take off your sweater, and put on a hat and some gloves.‘ So maybe the girl in the sweater will believe her friend and doll up a little more." "This young lady thinks she is properly dressed and so does the one dressed up....This young lady would be dressed for a tea, lSeventy—nine percent Of the informants mentioned the formal incongruity on Card IV. 2Sixty-two percent mentioned the formal incongruity on Card V. TABLE VI PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF AWARENESS OF FORMAL INCONGRUITIES IN RELATION TO SELECTED VARIABLES Formal Incongruities variables 0-1 0-11 C-III C-IV C-v C-VI C-VII” at 36 at J at $6 1: Upper Social Class 69.2 hl.0 7.7 87.2 6h.l 28.2 15.h Lower Social Class an. 30.2 7.0 72.1 60.5 18.6 7.0 Upper Occ pational Level 66.7 h3.6 5.1 89.7 69.2 35.9 17.9 Lower Occupational Level A6. 28.2 5.1 69.2 61.5 12.8 _5.1 Upper Income Level 87.5 50.0 12.5 87.5 '81.3 25.0 18.8 Middle Income Level h7.5 25.C 5.0 r 5 57.5 25.0 10.0 lower Income Level 50.0 h2.3 7.7 69.2 5737' 19.2 7.? Upper Educational Level 58.7 37.0 6.5 8h.8 69.6 19.6 10.9 lower Educational Level 52.8 33.3 8.3 72.2 352.8 27.8 11.1 High Organizational.Membership 63.6 u2.h 9.1 87.9 66.7 27.3 18.2 IDwOrganizational Membership 51.0 1%.? 6.1 73.5 59.2 20A 6.1 High Magazine Readership 65.9 3u.1 9.1 88.6 70.5 31.8 15.9 Low Magazine Readership hh.l h1.2 2.9 73.5 52.9 1h.7 5.9 Age "I under ht 67.u 3h.8 2.2 76.1 71.7 19.6 13.0 ho and Over no.0 36.7, 16.7 80.0 h6.7 26.7 10.0 Rural-urban Background Rural h5.2 25.8 0 71.0 51.6 25.8 6.5 urban _ i 59.6 h0.h 10.6 83.0 68.1. 23.h 1h.9 Verbal Intelligence ' High verbal Factor 63.0 55.6 7.h 96.3 7h.1 33.3 11.1 Medium Verbal Factor 59.h 32.3 9.7 8h.h 56.3 25.0 9.h Iou Verbal Factor h3.5 17.h h.3 352.2 56.5 8.73 13.0 Tbtal Sample 56.1 37.8 7.3 79.3_ 62.2 23.2 11.0 I'd say, where this one would be dressed for a picnic. So if they were at a picnic she's be overdressed." "It looks to me like one woman is taking the other woman's husband. By the appearance of the one woman, she probably lost her husband because she didn't care and the other had the appearance that could hold him. I've heard a lot of cases where peOple get married, only after they are married for a while they take it for granted that they were married and let themselves go, their appearance, leppy clothes, and then somebody else would come along, attractive, and gets him." Card VI (Formal)l "Well, they're not very well dressed. He's well dressed--it could be his home. The woman looks clean and neat, but very plain--her hat has no style-~it makes me think she doesn' t have a lot of clothes.' "That could be a college student sitting on the devenport... The son looks rather sloppy; I see he has on a sweater. They could be talking about his athletics." "She should be in her evening dress, with high heeled shoes, and she has on a street dress with low-heeled shoes and a hat. ..I think the next time she'll dress for the occasion." "They come from possibly a ranch or farm, And the way they are dressed and something came up and they wanted to know right away. They left immediately because he's got on working clothes and she is not dressed for a party. I think that they were definitely in a hurry because she does have a housedress on.". Cultural Incongruity The dress (skirt) of the male character on Card seven could have been explained in terms of a cultural difference in clothing ~ habits. About half of the total number of informants (#85) explained the skirt, Jacket, and/or sandals in this manner. (TABLE VII) The only factor that showed a statistically significant relationship was that of verbal intelligence. TABLE VII shows that 59% of those with a.high verbal factor commented upon a cultural incongruity, whereas only 9% of lTwenty-three percent noticed the formal incongruity on Card VI. 67 those with a low verbal score noticed the same incongruity. Both organizational membership and occupation, however, show that they are associated with comments on a cultural incongruity, but the association is larger than the five percent level of significance. Statements relative to the cultural incongruity on Card VII are as follows: Card VII "The sandals and that kind of coat would indicate that he was-- that it's either taking place in a foreign country or he was a foreigner here. USually associate that kind of collar with the Chinese or Japanese. You can't see much about the color of the Jacket of the other but it's more American, certainly." "Well, I would definitely say that they were two different nation- alities--that isn't Chinese because he hasn't--because he doesn't look like one. I don't know what nationality he'd be. Prussian? I don't know how they dress in Russia, but he is a foreigner." "He's foreign. The make of his coat, lOoks Chinese. And the sandals on his feet. He wears a skirt instead of a pair of trousers." Size Ihcongruity As part of the initial research design the woman in Card III was drawn as a heavy set woman dressed in clothing that was inappropriate for her figure. Approximately two-thirds of the respondents commented about this size incongruity. Three variables were significantly related to the observance of size incongruity, ai;the .01 percent level--social class, education and verbal intelligence. (See TABLE VII). When com- paring the total responses to Card III on Tables III and VII, it is interesting to note that more people discussed the size incongruity than the age incongruity. Thirty-nine percent noted the age incongruity while sixty-seven percent commented on the size incongruity for the female figure on Card III. Informants had these kinds of remarks to make concerning the size incongruity. 68 Card III "Well that's a rather overweight lady inappropriately dressed for a lady of her weight. I presume She will keep right on dressing that way, it's comfortable, and if she doesn' t care too much how she looks it won't matter. as \ "She's wearing the wrong type of clothes for a lady as heavy as She is He's obviously looking at her physique and thinking how awful She looks. "Well, this woman is definitely wearing clothes She shouldn't and the young man wondering why she dresses that way. Awful shame. Too big a woman. Looks bad. She may be a good old soul but she certainly believes in putting her worst foot forward." "Well, this is a short and fat woman, she has on a sweater and . skirt and sandal shoes with bobby sox and ah, this bby is probably critizing her. She'd look much better if she was in a dress with silk hose instead of bobby sox. She should wear a girdle and a brassiere and it would probably fix that." "That looks like a yohng boy making a pass at this pig of a woman on the street. She's not prOperly dressed for her size-- he's saying there goes a big fat lep." When one considers the total sample in relation to clothing incongruities it is apparent that almost eighty percent of the women noted a formal incongruity for Card Fbur, more than sixty-percent saw a formal incongruity on Card Five and over fifty percent observed a formal incongruity on Card One. In addition over sixty percent of the women mentioned the size incongruity (Card three) and approximately fifty percent noted the cultural incongruity on Card Seven. On the other hand, less than fifty percent of the sample noted an age, sex or status incongruity. In respect to the status incongruity, this finding would be in line with that reported by Form and Stone1 in ~ an article concerning urbanism.and status symbolism. The authors also 1William H. Form and Gregory P. Stone, "urbanism, Anonymity and Status Symbolism," American Journal of Sociolo 031, Vol. LXII, No. 5., (March, 1957), p. 511.. 69 TABLE VII PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF AWARENESS TO CULTURAL.AND SIZE INCONGRUITIES IN RELATION TO SELECTED VARIABLES Cultural Size Variables Incongruity Incongruity N c~VII 0-111 1 " $ L _ Upper Social fl1ags 51,3 7h,h (N . 39; lower Social Class . Ah.2 _5d;9_ (N a 43 Upper Occupational Level 56.h 65.8 (N 39 lower Occupational Level h1.O 52.6 (§_ 39 Upper Income Level (50.0 68.8 (N = 16) Middle Income Level h2.5 52.5 (F a ho) lower Income Level 53,8 57.7 N a 26) Upper Educational level 5h 3 71.7 (N a #6) _Lower Educational Level _38;9 38.9 _(N e 36) High Organizational Membership 5h.5 66.7 (N a 33) Low Organizational Membership, h2.9 67.3, (figs 49) H1gh.Magazine Readership 56.8 68.2 (N a hh) _Low‘Magazine Readership 38.2 hh.l (N . 35) Age under ho h5.7 65.2 (N . #6) to and Over 50:0 50.0 (fl,= 30) Rural-urban Background Rural h1.9 5h.8 (N e 31) urban h8.9 _57,h .efiN . A7) Verbal Intelligence High Verbal Factor 59.3 81.5 (N s 27) Medium Verbal Factor 65.6 53.1 (N = 32) Low Verbal Factor 8.7 3h.8 (N a 23) TOtalSample 1.7.6 67.1 (N . 82) 70 found that fifty percent of their sample Judged clothing irrelevant for status indication. Although a higher percentage might have been expected to notice a sex incongruity, this phenomenon is perhaps of less concern to adults than to children or adolescents. Lindsmith and Strauss1 feel that children from five to thirteen years of age rely heavily upon clothing as a sex indicator. Clothing of Specific Characters Of the social factors considered in this study there were more Significant or nearly Significant differences between organizational membership and clothing of specific characters than any other social factor. From TABLE VIII it is evident that the organizational membership of the informant was Significantly related to her comments about these characters-~5 (male on left of Card II), 9 (female on left side of Card IV), 11 (female on right of Card IV) and 17 (female on left of Card VI). In other words informants having a greater number of organizational memberships were more apt to discuss the clothing of these characters than those who had fewer memberships. Income was significantly related to the observance of clothing of four characters--3 (left female on Card I), 15 (left male on Card VI), 16 (female on Card VI) and 17 (left male on Card VII). Thus peOple with high incomes were definitely more likely to notice how these characters were dressed than those with low incomes. 1Alfred Lindsmith and Anselm Strauss, Social Psychology, (New York: Dryden Press Inc., 1950). See page #27 where the authors describe a five-year-old who attended a party at which children of both sexes bathed in the nude. When asked how many boys and how many girls were at the party, the child replied, "I couldn't tell because,they had their clothes off." 71 Occupation was related to remarks concerning the clothing of characters 11 (female on right of Card IV), 1h (left male on Card VI) and 16 (female on Card VI) in that people in the upper occupational level noted the dress of these characters with significantly greater frequency. Reapondents exhibiting high magazine readership commented on the clothing of character 6 (boy in shirtsleeves on Card II) more often than respondents with low magazine readership. Young informants were more likely to notice the clothing of character 12 (girl on left of C-V) than were older people. Interestingly enough, verbal intelligence was significantly associated with clothing comments pertaining to all but four characters. Informants with high verbal intelligence were overwhelmingly more vocal about the clothing of various characters than those with a low verbal factor. (See TABLE VIII). In general, of the nineteen characters pictured in the Clothing T A T, there were eleven whose clothing evoked comments from 50% or more of the total sample. These characters in descending order of importance are as follows: character 13 (female on right of Card V - 92%), character 12 (female on left of Card V - 85%), character 19 (male on right Of Card VII e'8l%), character 9 (female on left side of Card IV - 77%), character ll (female on right of Card IV - 73%), character 2. (female in center of Card I - 72%), character 1% (male on left of Card VI - 56%), charaCter 16 (female on right of Card VI - .56$) character 15 (male in center of Card VI - 5hfi) character_5 (male on left of Card II - 51%). From the above statement and from an examination of the percentages of informants who noted the other eight characters (TABLE Ix) it is apparent that the clothing of female .mo. om. mo. Ho. Ho. - mo. do. om. Ho. Ho.; mo. - - ooaomaaaoenH aseao> - - - - - - p om. - oa. - - oa. - easoamxomm aspha-asasm - - - - - - - Ho. - - - - - - - . sea u - u u u u n i a ow. no. 1 am. u mfinmhmdmom oofiumwm: om. - Ho. - oh. - - mo. om. mo. om. mo. - - gemstones: Hsooaesaaosmno - - om. - - - - - - - om. - - - om. massacres : u mo. no mo. 1 OH. n u u do. 0N. mEoooH u om. OH. mo. Ho. u : mo. - v n n 0H. : mowpmaoooo - - om. om. om. om. - om. - - - - - - mmsao asaoom ma. ma Na ma ma ea ma Ha oa m m. m m m Nmoapaaaeseonav moaeeaas> mumpomumso mmqm amaomqmm 92¢ QMZOHBZME mmmaodmdmO mo UZHMBOQD zwmzamm monB mAmO\OJ b-r4U\ b-PAO .:.s.e b—O\b' H .Medium Verbal Factor High Verbal Factor - Low Verbal Factor L—A—D' ,. . _- ... 7;:2 2.h 70.7 A3.9 h.9 51.2 no.2 396.3 11.0 72.0 30.5 Tbtal Sample 7h J “mm u 2v m.om m.mm m.ms H.0m H.mm e.mm m.am s.mm redeem fleece Awm u av m.oo e.ea H.mw H.6m H.mm m.mn m.mm m.mm .hoeoma Hmono> sea Amm u zv s.em H.wm m.ms «.mm s.mm H.mm w.mm m.om sesame Hohho> asses: Aem u zv o.mm e.os p.06 a.:e. m.ee m.mm m.mm m.mm sesame Hanso> amen has . ea e.mm e.mm e.os m.mm e.am o.mm m.ma H.mm ashes AHm u zv e.me >.mm m.mm e.mm e.ms m.ms m.mm m.mm Hosea Nam u 2% o.ow 0.0m e.we e.mm m.mw o.o> 0.0m m.me peso son 0: Am: . zv s.ow H.6m m.ee m.sm m.em 0.0m e.mm m.am. om< we more» 0: names Aem u av s.me m.mm H.>: 0.0m 0.0m 0.0m m.am. :.m> assessesmm shadows: sea T3 u 5 Hi5 Him >9: 41mm 9mm :13 «.mm 0.8 mammamdmom mofimmwmz omen Ame u qu. m.mm m.sm >.mm o.am m.me o.ms m.am w.Mw dwhmaonEoz aseoeosaaoswho sea Amm u zv m.am 4.0m >.om m.mw >.mm 0.0m m.om m.am oanmnoeSoZ Hmnoapssaosmno swam Aom u zv m.mm m.om H.0m 0.0m m.mm m.wm m.mw H.am Hosea Hsooapoooom noses Am: a zv m.me m.mm m.sm m.om m.mm m.mm mnmm o.em. ao>oa successooom home: Gm u 5 adv 04M) m.wm mimm whim Pfim mm“ 030 Hoe/3 oEOOaH hog A0: A 2V m.ee o.mm 0.0: m.ee o.ms o.ms o.mm m.em Hesse oaoosH edema: Ame u zv m.mm m.am o.me m.am m.>m m.mm m.mm m.am Hosea oeoocH home: Amm u zv e.ss m.om m.mm m.ws m.mm m.am >.mm H.mm .lnzlldo>oa amooaemesooo hogan Adm u zv m.sm m.mm o.mm e.se s.s> o.mm m.:m >.mm Ho>na Homoeomasooo than: Ame u av H.me m.om m.em m.me m.we m.ss >.om o.mm mamas Hoaoom sosoa Adm u zv H.mm «.mm e.mm >.mm p.06 H.sm m.mm m.em mmsao asaoom some: a. a. a am an, a) {he aw. a ma ma we we ma ea ma ma magmaHmas emeomamm ca onaaamm zH Ame-mav QMZOHBE $04550 ho mango ho ZOHBDmHmbHn mogaommm Aeossaeaoov xH aamaa 75 characters was noted far more often than the clothing of male characters. This was true in Spite of the fact that there were more male characters pictured on the seven cards. Clothing--The Idea for the Story Another technique used to ascertain Clothing awareness was the total number of cards in which clothing furnished the cue for the story. This bit of information was obtained by a direct question on the part of the interviewer in the second half of the interview after the infor- mant had finished telling her stories. This factor was related to both. organizational membership and verbal intelligence at the .01 percent level of significance; the fact that clothing gave the subJect the idea for her stories was also associated with social class, occupation, income, and magazine readership at the .05 percent level or below. (See TABLE I and TABLE x1). 8 FDr comparative purposes it should be noted that on Cards III and V clothing was used as the cue by 90% of the informants. (See TABLE XII). Clothing gave the idea for the story to 77% Of the respondents on Card IV; 72% of the informants on Cards VI and VII; 66% of the informants on Card I; and 50% of the informants On Card II. Again there is a tendency fOr cards picturing males only (VII and II) to rank low for this particular group of informants. Articles of Clothing Mbntioned It is sufficiently noteworthy to observe the specific items of clothing mentioned in the protocols of the'eighty-two female respondents. It is evident from TABLE XIII that there is a great deal of concern for accessories (hat, shoes, purse, gloves, or Jewelry). Two-thirds of the TABLE X SUMMARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN TOTAL NUMBER OF CARDS IN WHICH CIOTHING GAVE THE IDEA FOR STORY AND SELECTED VARIABLES Idea for Story Degrees of X2 Probability» Freedom Social Class 3.90 .05 1 Occupation 5.h0 .05 1 Income 5.75 .10 2 Education - . ’ - 1 Organizational Membership 7.05 .01 1 Magazine Readership 3.32 .10 1 Age - _ 1 Rural-urban Background 1.96 .20 l Verbal Intelligence 8.30 .02 . 2 TABLE XI 77 PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF NUMBER OF CARDS IN WHICH CLOTHING GAVE THE IDEA FOR STORY IN RELATION TO SELECTED VARIABLES Idea for Story Variables l to h 5 or Mbre Cards Cards Tbtal , as as 5 Upper Social Class 28.2 71.8 100 (N a 39) Lower Social Class 51.2 1+8.8 - 190 (N, 1+3) Upper Occupational Level 25.6 7h.h 100 (N a 39) Lower Occgpgtional.level 53.8 h6.2 1003(N a 39)_ Upper Income Level 12. 5 "87.5 100 (N . 16) Middle Tncome Iavel 50.0 ‘0 C 100 (N a 1to) lower Income level 1+2.3 57.7 100 (N . 26L Upper Educational level 31+.8 65.2 100 (N . 1+6) Lower Educational level h7.2 452.8 100 (N a 36) High Organizational Membership 21.2 78.8 100 (N a 33) Low Organizational Membership 51.1 1.6.9 100 (N . #9) High Magazine Readership 27.3 72.7 100 EN . 1.1.; Low Magazine Readership 50.0 50.0 100 N - 3h Age . under 1+0 32.6 67A 100 (N . h6) 1+0 and Over 50.0 j0.0 100 (N . 30) Rural-urban Background Rural 3h.0 66.0 100 (N a 31) Urban 51;; 1.6.7 100 (N . 1.12 Verbal Intelligence High verbal Factor 22.2 77.8 100 (N a 27; ‘Medium Verbal Factor 37.5 62.5 100 (N a 32 Law Verbal Factor 65.2 43h.8 100 (N a 23) h0.2 .8 100 N a 82 Total Saggle PERCENT OF INFORMANTS WHO USED CLOTHING AS TABLE XII THE IDEA FOR HER STORY FOR EACH CARD' Card Percent Card I 65-9 Card II 50 .0 Card III 90.2 Card Iv 76 .8 Card V 90.2 Card VI 72.0 Card VII 72.0 78 79 specific items of clothing used in the stories of ten or more informants were items such as hat, shoes, purse rather than the main articles of outerwear (dress, suit, coat, etc.). It is also apparent that articles of women's apparel were discussed in these protocols more often than items of men's clothing. This is in line with the fact that the clothes of women characters were used for purposes of identification of the character more frequently than were the clothes of male characters. There were Specific items of clothing noted by ten or more informants on all cards.. Four items were used in stories about Card One; three items for Cards Three and Fbur; and two items for the remain- ing cards. Range of the T A T Clothing Awareness Scores The scores of the eightyétwo respondents ranged from 15 to lltl.l (See FIGURE II) Class intervals have been divided into eight categories of twenty points each: 0 to 19, 20 to 39, ho to 59, 60 to 79, 80 to 99, 100 to 109, 120 to 139, and 1ho to 159' .The number of informants in each category starting with J to 19 is as follows: A, ll, 17, 16, 1h, 11, h, and 1. The peak of the histogram falls in the V0 to 59 class of scores. The average score (arithmetic mean) is 67.9, and the measure of dis- persion (standard deviation) is 31.2. This relatively Large value of the standard deviation indicates a wide scattering of scores about the .mean. ‘ 1A range of 126 points is to be considered a wide range for tile small sample of 82 women. In an earlier study, the author found a Itlnge of 87 points on an interest in clothing scale for 180 women. TABLE XIII ARTICLES OF CLOTHING MENTIONED BY TEN OR MORE INFORMANTS Card Article Frequency '1 Dress ,. 23 I Gloves 19 I Higi heels 18 I Purse 18 II Suit or coat 25 II . T shirt or short sleeved shirt 20 III ‘ Sweater and skirt 2% III Shoes and sox 20 III Purse 16 IV Purse 15 Iv Hat 21+ IV Shirt sleeves 10 V Hat 17 V Tie 1h VI Hat 12 VI Purse 12 VII Shoes or sandals 23 VII Skirt 16 FIGURE II FREQUENCY DISTRIBUTION OF EIGHTY-TWO SCORES ON T A T CLOTHING AWARENESS SCALE 81 0-19 10-39 hO-59 60-79 80-99 100-119 120-139 lhO-159 82 Relationship of Clothing Awareness Scores to Independent Variables When the Chi-square test of significance was applied seven of the nine variables tested were significantly related to the Clothing Awareness Scores, while the remaining two variables approached significance ( p<:.20). In this analysis we will use George W. Snedecor's terminologyl concerning the relationship between variables. The relationship between Clothing Awareness Scores and verbal intelligence is "extremely significant," relationships involving organizational membership or social class are - "highly significant," and relationships concerning income, education, occupational level or magazine readership are "moderately significant." (See TABLE XIV). As pointed out above, age and urban-rural background were also associated with Clothing Awareness Scores, but below the significance level. When scores ranging from 68 to 1&1 were considered high scores, 70% of these with a high number of organizational memberships and 37% low in organizational activities rated high scores. The average score for those with a high number of memberships was seventy-nine, while the average score for informants with a low number of memberships was sixty-one. (See TABLE XVI) As mentioned above, the difference between the groups having high and low associational memberships was statistically significant and thus supports the hypothesis that those who belong to several organizations will demonstrate greater clothing awareness than those who belong to few or no organizations. Perhaps, those women who attend organizational activities have more Opportunity or more practice in observing the clothing of others. . 1As reported by Margaret J. Hagood, Statistics for Sociologists (New Yerk: Henry Holt and Company, 1952), p. 325. TABLE XIV SUMMARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN CLOTHING AWARENESS SCORES AND SOCIAL CLASS VARIABLES, AGE, RURAL-URBAN BACKGROUND AND VERBAL INTELLIGENCE Independent Clothing_Awareness Variables Degrees of X2 Probability Freedom Social Class 7.02 .01 1 Occupation b.1h .05 1 Income 7.08 .05 2 Education 5.98 .02 1 Organizational Membership 7.28 .01 1 Magazine Readership b.08 .05 1 Age 1.70 .20 1 Rural-Urban Background 1.68 .20 l Verbal Intelligence 2h.h5 .001 2 8L Clothing Awareness Scores were definitely associated with social class stratification. Approximately 67% of the upper social class accumulated high scores, in contrast only 35% of the lower social class had high scores. (TABLE XV). The average score for the upper social class was a score of seventy-seven, whereas the lower social class group had an average score of fifty-nine. This significant relationship (pliOl) permits the acceptance of the hypothesis that the upper social class ‘would exhibit higher clothing awareness scores than the lower social class. This finding then, furnishes additional evidence of the re- lationship between social class and clothing awareness by means of a new projective technique and further corroborates the results of earlier studies1 using the more traditional questionnaire method. As is evident in TABLE I, the next highest association was between educational level and clothing awareness scores. Scores ranged from 16 to 1hl in the upper educational level with an average score of seventy-three. Nemen in the lower educational level had scores from 15 to 125 and a mean score of sixty-two. This significant relationship level (p (02) likewise supports the hypotheses proposed in Chapter I--"Clothing Awareness is related to the education level of those responding to the Clothing T A T."2 Additional hypotheses supported by these data are that occupation, income, and magazine readership would each be significantly related t clothing awareness scores. These variables showed a moderately signifi- cant relationship (p<:05). 13cc the reviewed studies of Vener, warning, and Form and Stone in Chapter I. 28cc page 32. 85 The hypotheses that age and rural-urban background would show a positive relationship with clothing awareness scores was not supported by the data. However, there is an association in the direction eXpected in that the average score for the younger informants was seventy-one, whereas the average score for the older age group (ho years and older) was fifty-four. Informants from urban backgrounds also had a higher average score (seventy-one) than informants with rural backgrounds (sixty-three). Other studies1 that have shown significant clothing difference in regard to an urban-rural continuum.compared people actually living in rural areas with those living in urban communities while the informants participating in this study were all' living in an urban area at the time of their interviews. The in- fluence of the rural community is undoubtedly stronger when one is actively engaged in rural life. Finally, the variable of verbal intelligence which has been found to be closely associated with the story-telling technique was signifi- cantly associated with clothing awareness scores. This fact supports the hypothesis that informants with high verbal intelligence would produce high scores on the Clothing Awareness Scale. A comparison of percentages of informants having high scores in each group (TABLE XV) shows that 82% of those with a high verbal factor had high scores; 53$ of those with a medium verbal factor had high scores; and only 9$10f those with low verbal intelligence produced high clothing awareness scores. lSee Bulletin 2A6 by G. P. Stone and W H. Form and Master' s Thesis by M. L Rosencranz. TABLE XV PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF TOTAL CLOTHING AWARENESS IN RELATION TO SELECTED VARIABLES SCORES low Scores High Scores Variables (15 - 67) (68 - lhl) Total 1 1» 1» Upper Social Class 33.3 66.7 100 (N = 39) Lower Social Class 65.1 3h.9 100 (N = h3) Upper Occupationa1.1evel 35.9 6h.l 100 (N ' 39) Lower Occupaticnal Level 61.5 38.5 100_(N3- 39) "pper Ir ome Level 18.8 81.2 100 (N . 16) Middle Income Level 62.5 37.5 100 (N - ho) Lower Income Level 50.0 50.0 100 (N = 26) Upper Educational level 37.0 63.0 100 (N - h6) Lower Educational Level 66.7 33.3 100 (N - 36) High Organizational Membership 30.3 69.7 100 (N ' 33) Low Organizational Membership, 63.3 36.7 lOO_(N - 49) High Magazine Readership 36.h 63.6 100 (N ' hh) Low Magazine Readership» 61.8 _38.2 100 (N -_3&) Age . Under A0 h3.5 56.5 100 (N 3 #6) no and Over _-_-..5_6.-.7 "$3.13. 10.9 -(N..‘._3.Q). Rural-urban Background Rural 58.1 81.9 100 (N - 31) urban hh.7f 55.3 100 (N - A7) Verbal Intelligence High 7‘ 'al Factor 18.5 81.5 100 (N - 27) .Mediu‘ Verbal Factor h6.9- 53.1 100 (N - 32) Low Verbal Factor 91. 8.7, 100 (N - 23) Total Sample 50.0 50.0 100 (N - 82) 86 TABLE XVI AVERAGE AND RANGE OF CLOTHING AWARENESS SCORES BY SOCIAL CLASS AND RELATED VARIABLES; AGE; RURAL-URBAN BACKGROUND AND VERBAL INTELLIGENCE ' Variables Average Range of Scores Scores Upper Social Class 77 17 - lhl Lower Social Class 59 15 - 125 Upper Occupational Level 76 17 — lhl Lower Occupational Level 62 15 - 125 Upper Income Level 86 36 - lhl Middle Income Level 59 16 - 137 . Lower Income Level 66 15 - 125 - Upper Educational Level 73 16 - 1hl Lower Educational Level 62 15 - 125 High Organizational Mambership 79 17 - 1A1 Dow Organizational Membership 61 15 - 121 High mgazine Readership 78 16 - 1’+1 Low Magazine Readership 59 15 - 125 Age . Under #0 71 15 - lhl ho and Over 5h 17 - l37 Rural-urban Background Rural 63 16 - lhl urban 71 15 - 137 Verbal Intelligence - High Verbal Factor 86 19 - 1A1 Medium Verbal Factor , 7O 27 - 137 Low Verbal Factor; hh 15 - 125 Total Sample ’ 67 15 - lhl CHAPTER IV CLOTHING THEMES One of the most interesting aspects of an analysis of any T A T pertains to the thematic content of the protocols. One of the main purposes of this study is the exploration of the number and types of clothing themes that evolve from an administration of a Clothing T A T. or particular import will be a discussion of the total number or clothing themes for each card, the presence or absence of themes for specific cards, the themes appearing most frequently, and the use of similar themes on more than one card. Total Number of Themes Since one or more clothing incongruities were designed for each card, it was reasonable to assume that clothing themes would be deve10ped in stories concerning each card. or course, there was no way of predicting which cards would produce the greatest number of clothing themes. It is clear from inspection of FIGURE III that Card III inspired the greatest total number of clothing themes (257), followed by Card v (23h), Card IV (219), and Card VII (21h). The three cards that ranked low in total number of clothing themes were Card I (196), Card VI (167) and Card II (83). The total number of themes for each card parallels the total number of lines of clothing cement only in respect to the last two cards. It will be remembered that the cards were arranged in the following order for total number of N— .MM...., _,‘. 89 clothing comment: V, III, I, IV, VII, VI, II. Comparing FIGURE I1 with FIGURE III, it will be noted that the greatest difference is in the rank order of Card I. Card I drops from third place in number of l:nes of clothing comment to fifth place in relation to number of themes. Other changes recorded in TABLE XVII are Card V which drOpped to second place in total number of themes, Card III which is first in total number of themes and second in number of lines ofsclothing comment, and Card IV and VII which both rank higher in relation to total number of themes than they did in regard to number of lines of clothing comment. Presence or Absence of Themes Of the eighty-two women participating in the Clothing T A T there were twenty-four who did not express clothing themes for Card I, thirty-six with no clothing themes for Card II, three persons did not have clothing themes for Card III, nine informants expressing no clothing themes for Card IV, five women not responding with clothing themes for Card V, twelve with no clothing themes for Card VI, and ten women not producing clothing themes for Card VII. The number of ' persons not responding with clothing themes ranges then from three persons (Card III) to thirty-six persons (Card II). When the presence or absence of clothing themes was analyzed in terms of the variables used in this study, occupation, organizational membership, magazine readership and verbal intelligence were found to have significant relationships. From TABLE XVIII it is also apparent that there were no significant relationships for Cards III and V. In other words, belonging to a high or low status group, being young or 1See page 52. FIGURE III TOTAL NUMBER OF THEMES USED FOR EACH CARD c I, ' c 11' 8c III c IV c v (196) (83) (257) .(219) (23h) (167) C VI 0 VII (21h) L_. -_.... L... ._.. on 91 old, growing up in a rural or urban area, having high or low verbal intelligence made little difference whether or not the informant (expressed clothing themes for Card III or Card V. Two cards were found to have significant relationships (at the five percent probability level or less) between absence of clothing themes and the variables tested. The data presented in TABLE XIX Show a greater percentage of the low occupations group expressed clothing themes for Card II: a greater percentage of those with high organization participation expressed clothing theme for Card II; and a greater percentage of women with a low verbal factor responded with themes for Card II. Pertaining to themes for Card IV, the high occupational group, the high magazine readership group and those with high verbal intelligence were more likely to express clothing themes. Moreover, close inspection of TABLE XIX reveals that of the significant associations and those tending toward significance there are four relationships in respect to presence or absence of themes that are the reverse of those found in relation to total clothing awareness. The fact that the low social class, the low ocrupational group and the group with a low verbal factor for Card II and the older age group for Card VII were more apt to respond with clothing themes is contrary to the finding that these groups had low total clothing awareneSs scores. It would require further testing to decide whether or not this particular finding is generally valid. Themes Used Most Frequently For Each Card Card I had fifteen themes mentioned; seven of these were used by ten or more peOple. Card II had a total cf fifteen themes, but only two of these were expressed by ten or more informants. Card III 92 TABLE XVII RANK ORDER OF CARDS IN RELATION TO TOTAL NUMBER OF LINES OF CLOTHING COMMENT COMPARED WITH TOTAL NUMBER OF THEMES -’ “0””. o. a uw—m‘ - .- Card Rank Order of Rank Order of Total Number of Lines of Total Number of Themes -_...W.._...._. _~__Clg)thing£9ment I 3 5 II 7 7 III A 2 1 IV A 3 V l 2 VI 6 6 VII 5 ‘* ”In..- o---———.—s-~.¢—o~a v 0. --— O ”O _— _....--—--o-—e—-e .w-w _ . A» we“.-. TABLE XVIII SUMMARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN USE OF CLOTHING THEMES FOR EACH CARD AND SELECTED VARIABLES 93 Variables Use of Themes (probabilities) C-I C-II C-III C-IV C-V C—VI C—VII Social Class , - .20 - - - - _ Occupation .20 .05 — .02 - .20 .20 Income - - - - — .20 .10 Education .10 - - — — - - Organizational Membership .10 .001 - .lO ‘— - — Magazine Readership .20 .05 - .02 — - - Age .20 - - - - - .20 Rural-urban Background - - - — - .20 - Verbal Intelligence .02 .02 - .01 - .01 .001 9h weave... waspoflo sllfl“ NHN Ema Numo m.>m :.mm m.mm o.mw mtmm H.mn. s.oe oamsmm Hopes Ammv m.oo «.mm o.sm .w.mo s.mm H.om m.se monomwaaooon Hohho> seq Ammv m.mm m.mm m.mm w.mm m.mm 0.0m o.ms ooommaaaoona Henno>_aseomx Away .o.ooa m.mm m.mm ouooa o.ooa m.>s «.mw monomaaaoeoH Heono> swam Away :.mm o.mm m.mm m.am m.sm m.mm m.os ensonmsosm neon: Aamv m.mw m.om m.mm m.mm m.mm m.am s.sm eosonmmosm Hesse Aomv m.mm 0.0m 0.0m >.mm >.mm 0.00 0.0m soeo one o: Ame m.mw m.:m s.mm a.mm m.>m m.mm H.ms o: moans--omm :3 .. mam {mm dam 11mm dam 33 RS manmnoeeom Banana: :3 2+3 . m.om 0.8 «.mm N.mm Nimm 98 9t. mfinmhmcmom vaumwmz swam « Amsv. w.sm m.am m.mm >.mm m.mm m.o: m.mw mammnonsmzea.psaaommeo one. Ammv m.em m.om m.om o.sm o.>m m.ms m.am aaomnoosmzna.omnaommno swam Ammv >.wm m.mm :.:m H.mm :.:m 0.0m H.am fleece Hmooaeeosam mason Amsv m.:m m.mm m.mm m.am m.>m m.oo m.ms Ho>uq Hmnoaeoosem some: 33 one. new A mom 6.5 and ER «.8 3an season has Aoev 0.0m m.mm m.mm m.sw o.mm 0.0m o.mw Hosea osoooH manna: Amav o.oo o.ooa m.mm o.ooa o.oo o.m> m.sm Hosea msoooH some: Ammv H.mm H.mm m.mm m.ms :.>m m.s~ m.ao .Hmsmq Hmooaemosooo honoH Ammv m.mm m.mm m.4m :.>m m.:m o.mm m.ms .amemq Hmooapoasooo some: . AMJV o.mm :.Hm m.mm >.mw m.mm. o.m® H.mw mmmao anfioom noon Ammv >.mw >.mm m.mm m.mm :.em H.:m m.me mmmau Heaoom some: 2 u a mm a u u w . HH> memo. H> some > sumo >H sumo HHH enmo HH memo H mono moaomanes §m§m<> Dmaomqmm 9H. ZOHBSHM 2H mgu .34 mom mmg US$80 ho ZOHHbmHEmHQ mwgommm . 95 TABLE XX NUMBER OF DIFFERENT THEMES AND NUMBER OF THEMES WITH A FREQUENCY OF TEN OR MORE FOR EACH CARD Card Number of Themes With A Frequency Different Themes of Ton or Mere ' I 15 7 II 15 2 III 13 7 IV 11 9 V 17 9 VI 11+ 6 VII 11+ h 96 had a range of thirteen themes, seven of which were mentioned by ten or more interviewees. There was a total of eleven themes for Card IV: nine of these appeared ten or more times. Card V had seventeen themes mentioned with nine expressed by at least ten people. Card VI had a total of fourteen themes; six of these were recorded for ten or more informants. Finally Card VII had fourteen different themes, four of which had a frequency of ten or more. (See TABLE XXI). Themes used most often for each card are listed below in order of frequency of appearance. The number of informants who expressed each theme is recorded in parenthesis. Card I 1. Occasion: clothes apprOpriate for school; clothes appropriate for special occasion. (57) 2. Character Two is dressed "differently." (29) 3. Character Two is well dressed. (28) h. Character Two wants to attract attention. (22) 5. Other girls envy Character Two. (13) 6. Character Two is being criticized. (11) 7. Character Two is immodest. (11) 1. Character Five is older than Character Six. (27) 2. Character Six has on work clothes. (10) Card III 1. Character Seven is poorly dressed. (57) 2. Character Eight doesn't like her clothes. (53) 3. Her clothes are not appropriate for her size. (#6) 97 Her clothes are not appropriate for her age. (32) She has clothes like a type that would visit a saloon. (2h) Character Seven.wants to attract attention. (1?) Character Seven 3 clothing is immodest. (1h) Character Nine or Character Eleven are dressed to go out. (50) Character Eleven or Character Nine are visiting because of their clothes. (35) Character Eleven or Character Nine are not dressed for the surroundings. (30) Clothes Show that Character Nine is young or that Character Eleven is older. (23) ' Clothes of Character Ter portray occupation such as factory worker or truck driver. (23) Character Nine or Character Eleven is well dressed. (18) Other characters are criticizing Character Nine. (15) Clothes of Character Nine are different from others. (10) Character Tan is poor. (10) The two girls are dressed differently. (#6) Clothes of Twelve could be men's or women's clothes. (30) Character Thirteen is well dressed. (23) Character Twelve will change her way of dressing. (l9) Character Twelve won't change her way of dressing. (l7) Clothes Show that Character Thirteen is older. (16) Clothes show that Character Twelve is poor. (15) 98 8. Character Thirteen is criticizing the clothes of Character Twelve. (14) 9. Character Twelve is not well dressed. (11) Card VI 1. Clothes reveal occupation of Character 1h (lawyer, principal, teacher, businessman, etc.); clothes reveal occupation of Character 16 (prize-fighter, football player, coach, etc.) (51) 2. Clothing shows social class. (23) 3. Clothing reflects economic status; Character 15 and 16 are poor. (21) h. Clothes tell age; "T-shirt" a youth; suit : older man; hat a older woman. (17) i 5. Clothes of Character 16 are out of style. (11). Card VII 1. Clothes show sex of characters; doubt concerning sex of Character l9;(}haraCter 19 is a woman because of clothes. (8h) 2. Clothing reflects culture; Character 19 is Oriental, Scottish, Russian, etc. (57) I 3. Clothes reveal occupation (detective, guard, soldier, minister, butler, student, interpreter) (26) h. Clothes of Character 16 are "different." (1h) The USe of Themes on Mere Than One Card Some themes are used in stories for more than one card. Themes pertaining to the age of the character in respect to his clothing and themes concerning the occasion for which clothes might be worn each appeared on six cards. In other words, the informants relied heavily 99 upon the clothing of the various characters for clues concerning the age of the character and the occasion for which the character was dressed. Themes that were expressed in stories about five cards were occupational themes, reCOgnition of well dressed characters, recognition of poorly dressed Characters, themes regarding the economic status of the characters, and themes in which one character criticized another's clothing. The fact that one figure was "different" from others and the fact that certain characters were ”dressed u " toggo out were each used in connection with four cards. Social class themes, "working" Iclothes themes, themes of gggy_and new clothes themes were reported for three cards.- Seven themes were used for two cards. These were sex1 themes, visitor themes, attraction themes, the incoggruity of clothing and surroundings, style themes, newcomer themes, sophistication themes, and the fact that certain characters would not change their way of dressing. Frequency of Appearance of Themes on Cards Analyzed Collectively An examinatiOn of TABLES XXI and XXlIreveals range of types of themes appearing on all seven cards analyzed collectively. Those themes appearing most frequently include the relationship between clothing and age; one character criticizing another's clothing; clothes appropriate for men or for women; clothing as a symbol of occupation; poorly dressed characters; characters whose Clothes were "different," clothing appropriate for specific occasions; well dressed characters; clothes relating to another culture; characters dressed lSex refers to the clothes that a man would wear or clothes that a woman would wear. - TABLE XXI THEMES USED MOST FREQUENTLY lOO Theme I II III IV V VI VII Total Age 6 27 32 23 l6 l7 - 121 Character criticizing dress of another 11 8 , 53 15 1h 8 8 117 Occupation - lO 1 23 A 51 26 115 Sex (men's or women's clothes) - - - - 3O - 8h 11h Clothes are ”different" 29 - - 10 A6 - 1h 99 Poorly dressed characters 3 h 57 - 4 ll 5 80 Occasion for which clothes are worn 57 3 - 1 ll 7 . - 79 Well dressed characters 28 6 - 18 23 l 3 79 Clothes of another culture - - - - - - 57 57 Character dressed to go out — 2 - 50 - 2 2 56 Economic status 7 3 - 10 15 21 5 5h Clothes in relation to physique - - A6 - - — - A6 Clothes of a visitor - - - 35 7 - - #2 Character wants to attract attention 22 - l7 - - - - 39 Clothes in relation to surroundings - - - 3O - 8 - 38 Social class 5 ~ 5 ‘ - 23 - 33 Clothes are immodest ll - 1h - - - - 25 Clothes of a type that would go to saloon - - 24 - - - - 2h Envy or admiration of clothing 13 - - - 9 1 - 31 101 TABLE XXII THEMES USED LESS FREQUENTLY Theme . Frequency on Each Card I II III IV V VI VII Totai Character will change way of dressing 3 - | - - l9 - - 22 Character won‘t change way of dressing A - - - 17 - - 21 Clothes are out of style - - 7 - - ll — 18 working clothes; no Specific job - 2 3 - 9 ~ - 1A Rural versus urban clothes - - - - A 7 A - ll Clothes of a newcomer 8 2 - - - - - lO Clothes Show sophistication 5 - - - A - - 9 Comfort 2 A 2 - - - l 9 Clothes of a radical - A - - - - 2 6 Character should wear undergarments - - 6 ~ - - - 6 Sissy clothes — 5 - - - - u 5 Clothes of a prisoner — - - - - ' - 5 Clothes for sleeping; housecoat - - - A - - l 5 New clothes ' - - - - l 2 - 3 . Western clothes .. - - — - 2 - - 2 Borrowing clothes - 2 - - - - - 2 Clothes of a murderer - l — - 4 - - l Maternity clothes - — - - - - 1 l 102 to "go out"; and clothes as a symbol of economic status. Each of the- above themes were used fifty or mOre times. unusual themes or themes used least often were clothing as a symbol of a prisoner or murderer; character wearing new clothes; western clothes (cowboy clothes); characters borrowing clothes, and maternity clothes. Significant Associations Between Themes and Variables TESted Of the thirty-Six different themes found in the stories of these respondents, fourteen were significantly related to one or more of the variables used in the study. Social Class of the informant was related to such themes as one character dressing differently from others, suitability of clothes for the occasion, characters dressed for visiting and social class themes. (See TABLE XXIII) The fact that those in the upper social class were more apt to use social class themes supports the hypothesis so stated in Chapter I. The occupation of the informant was significantly related to the use of themes relating to characters dressing differently from others, those dressed to go out, and the suitability of clothes for particular occasions. Although the occupation of the informant was not signifi- cantly related to the use of occupational themes, this relationship" approached the Significance level. (p = .10). , Income was definitely associated with five themes--age, attract- ing attention, dressing differently from others, social class and being well dressed. The higher income group used these five themes more often than those with lower incomes. Stories containing age themes, themes of attraction, cultural themes and occasion themes were more frequent among those informants with 103 TABLE XXIII SUMMARY OF ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN CLOTHING THEMES AND SELECTED VARIABLES Variables (probabilities) Themes a, m S e [a a -3 a. a. “'o 8 (a .3 q .p-H -H .8 g m .. .9. as as s s '4 8' m +9 -H H vi a u E) F{F{ E s S 8 3.3 S :5 '4.s .3'3 8 8 o s are ’uifiT m E o 3‘9 m o .5 E 54% T a: 2’ as >51 Age " - .01 e05 - 001 - - eOl Attract attention - - .01 .001 - - .01 - .05 Clothing versus back- ground - - _ - - - .05 - - Culture - - - .001 - - - - .001 Different from others .01 .05 .01 - - - .05 - - Dressed to go out - .05 - — - - - - - Envy or admiration - - - - - - - .05 ‘- Occasion .05 .05 - tel .05 .Ol .01 - .01 Occupation - - - - .05 - - - .05 One criticizing another - — n — - - .05 - - Social Class _ .Ol - .01 - - - - - - Visitor .01 ' - - - - - - - .05 Well dressed - - .05 - - - - - _ Won't Change way of dressing - - - - .05 - - - - 10A a high educational level. The extremely significant probability of .001 found in the relationship between education and the use of cultural themes supports the hypothesis that women of a high educational level will be more cognizant of any cultural variation in clothing. Infor- mants with little education were puzzled by the male character wearing a skirt, while those with more education identified character seventeen as an Oriental, Scotsman, Russian, refugee, monk or martyr. The hypothesis that the educational level of the informant would be related to the recognition of men's or women's clothing was not supported. Organizational membership was Significantly related to three themes (occasion, occupation and characters who won't change their way of dressing). Those who read the greatest number of types of magazines were more likely to use age and occasion themes than those who read fewer types of magazines. Young informants were aware of characters attracting attention, clothes versus background, characters dressing differently, occasion and one character criticizing another. Older women were not any more likely to use themes relating to age and clothes than younger women, thus this hypothesis was not supported. The only theme related to rural-urban background was the theme of envy or admiration expressed for Cards I, V and VI.. Verbal intelligence was related to use of six themes. (See TABLE XXIII). These themes paralleled the significant associations of the educational variable with the addition of occupation and visitor themes. 8 Occasion themes were related to seven of the independent variables; age themes, attracting attention themes and being dressed U 105 differently from others were each associated with four of the variables tested. All other themes were associated with two or fewer variables. ‘CHAPTER V SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS The primary purpose of this study was focused upon the explanation of certain aspects of clothing symbolism in social-psychological terms. Priority was given to the measurement of the use of clothing as a guide in identifying the role and status of unknown persons. The degree of clothing awareness and the deve10pment of clothing themes were assessed by means of a Clothing T A T--a new technique for this particular area of human behavior. The investigational procedure included an examin- ation of clothing awareness and Clothing themes in terms of differences in (1) social class and related variables, (2) age, (3) rural-urban background and (A) verbal intelligence. Fourteen specific hypotheses were formulated for testing differences that might occur in regard to these variables. The development and use of the Clothing T A T was described in detail including its relationship to the original T A T and subsequent modification. A sample of eighty-two women in Vansburg, a city of 10,000 in south-central Michigan was selected by a stratified-random technique that included a prOportionate number of wives of men in each occupational stratum. ’ In order to analyze clothing awareness, a total clothing awareness score was given to each informant; this awareness score was composed of the addition of the number of typewritten lines of clothing comment, the number of characters whose clothing was mentioned, the number of clothing 107 incongruities mentioned, the number of cards in which clothing gave the idea for her story, and the number of themes that were expressed in re- lation to clothing. “Statistically significant findings related to clothing awareness scores indicated that women with high awareness scores were of the upper social class, belonging to a greater number of organizations, had a higher educational level, had a higher income, subscribed to a greater number of magazines, had higher verbal intelligence and were wives of men in the white collar occupational group. 6fiomen noting age and clothing incongruities were in the upper social class, upper educational level belonged to two or more organizations, read three or more types of magazines and were in the white collar group. Those who observed formal incongruities were from the upper social class, the higher income level and were wives of white collar workers. Informants aware of status incongruities belong to a high income level, had high verbal intelligence and came from urban communities. Wbmen noting a size incongruity on Card III were in the upper socflil class, the upper educational group and had high verbal intelligence. WOmen aware of a cultural incongruity on Card VII had high verbal intelligence. Significant relationships dealing with the observation of clothing of specific characters are as follows: Character 3 was noted by the high income group; Character 5 was observed by those with high organi- zational membership and high verbal intelligence; Character 6 was mentioned by women subscribing to three or more types of magazines and with high verbal intelligence; Character 9 was noted by those with high organizational membership and high verbal intelligence; Character 11 was observed by women in the white collar group, with high organi~ zational membership, and high verbal intelligence; Character 12 was mentioned by young-women with high verbal intelligence; Character 15 and 16 were noted by those in the white collar group with high incomes and 108 high verbal intelligence; Character 17 was observed by women of high income, high organizational membership and high verbal intelligence; and Character 19 was noted especially by those with high verbal intelligence. Informants who most often stated that clothing gave them the idea for their stories were from the upper social class, from the white collar group, participated in two or more organizations and had high verbal intelligence. Although one of the primary aims in analyzing the thematic content . of the clothing protocols was to ascertain the range and type of clothing themes in this exploratory study, there were thirty-three statistically significant findings from analysis of the associations between clothing themes and the variables tested. A summary of these significant associations is as follows: 1. WCmen from the higher social class tended to use clothing themes of one character dressing differently, suitability of clothes to the occasion, clothing reflecting social class and characters dressed for visiting more often than women from the lower social class. WCmen from the white collar groups were more likely to use themes, relating to characters dressing differently, characters dressed to go out, and the suitability of clothes to the occasion more often than women from the blue collar group. WOmen with high incomes used themes of age, attracting attention, dressing differently, social class and being well dressed more frequently than those with low incomes. Women with higher education tended to use themes of age, attraction, cultural Clothes and suitability for occasion more often than women with less education. Women who participated in a greater number of organizations used themes of occasion, occupation, and characters who won't change their ways of dressing. WOmen who read a greater number of types of magazines used age and occasion themes more often than those who read few types of magazines. 109 7. Young women used themes of attracting attention, clothes versus background, characters dressing differently, occasion and one character criticizing another more frequently than older women. 8. urban women were more likely to use themes of envy or admir~ ation more frequently than rural women. 9. WOmen with high verbal intelligence used themes of age, attracting attention, clothing of another culture, suita- bility of clothing for occasion, occupational clothing, and visiting clothes more often than those with low verbal intelligence. Of the nine hypotheses proposed in relation to clothing awareness, seven were substantiated in data analyses.' Social class and all of its related aspects (occupation, income, education, organizational member- ,/3 ship and magazine readership) were found to have significant relation- ships to clothing awareness. The two variables 293 significantly related to this particular measure of clothing awareness were age and rural-urban background. Verbal intelligence as a variable proved to have a significant association with clothing awareness. Two of the five hypotheses preposed in relation to clothing themes were supported by the data and a third variable reinforced the thesis by indicating a trend in the direction which was theoretically anticipated. Social class showed a significant relationship to the use of accial class themes; education was significantly related to the use of clothing of another culture theme; occupation of informant proved to have a relationship to occupational clothing themes that approached significance. 'Educamionf ore informant was get related to the use of sex themes. (clothes appropriate for men or women). There were many interesting findings of a descriptive nature in respect to both clothing awareness and clothing themes. It was apparent that the clothing of female characters was noted more frequently than 110 the clothing of male characters. This finding persisted in spite of the fact that there were more male Characters pictured on the seven cards. In like manner specific articles of women's apparel were incorporated in the stories more often than specific items worn by male characters. Two-thirds of the specific items mentioned by ten or more informants were accessories (hat, gloves, shoes, or purse) rather than the main articles of outerwear (dress or suit). The series of drawings used for the Clothing T A T were designed to depict incongruities between clothing and the sex, clothing and age, and social status of the pictured characters. Not only were these incongruities noted by the informants but formal, cultural and size incongruities were observed in addition. Card Five elicited the greatest amount of clothing comment (four‘ hundred and ninety-eight typewritten lines) and Card Two evoked the least amount (one hundred and sixty-one typewritten lines.) The informants stated that they liked Card Four best; they liked Card Three least. However, informants who were upper class, younger, or from an urban background liked Card Three better than lower class, older, or rural women. An analysis of the thematic content of the protocols revealed at least thirty-six different themes oriented toward the use of clothing as a symbol. The types of themes used most frequently were the relation- ship between clothing and age; one character criticizing another's clothes; clothes appropriate for men or for women; clothing and occupation; poorly dressed characters; characters whose clothes were different; clothes approPriate for specific occasions; well dressed characters; clothes relating to another culture; characters dressed to "go out"; and lll clothes as a symbol of economic status. Each of these themes were used with a frequency of fifty or more. Comments after the interview produced relatively few negative Statements?" Eight women referred to the ambiguity of the drawings, the conflict situations, lewdness, disrespect for age or unhappiness that was suggested to them by the pictures. The majority of women seemed to accept the T A T with much the same attitude that they accepted the more traditional type of interview. The general conclusion to be drawn'from this study is that clothing is used as an important guide in determining the role and status of un- -known persons. In addition to the several kinds of evidence presented above, the fact that sixty percent of the informants stated that clothing gave the idea for her story for five or more cards lends added weight to the thesis. As many as ninety percent of the informants used clothing as the basis of her story for Cards Three and Five. The potentialities in the use of the Clothing T A T are unlimited. Other types of situations could be pictured; the T.A T in its present form could be used with subjects of both sexes and a variety of age groupings to secure a wider view of the use of clothing in identifying the characters pictured. In future studies it might also be important to consider the effect of the interviewer and the effect of an audience during the interview. Despite the limitation of a relatively small sample, the range of tOpics concerning clothing-~the thirty-six different clothing themes--likewise hold promise for an exciting new area of investigation. such studies are needed if we are to better understand 'the highly complex use of clothing as a social-psychological symbol. 1See Appendix A for more detailed comment from respondents. LITERATURE C ITED 113 LITERATURE CITED Abt, L. and L. Bellak, Prolective Psychology, New York: Alfred A. KnOpf, 1950. Barr, E. D., "A Psychological Analysis of Fashion Motivation,” Archives of Psychology, Vol. XXVI, No. 171, June,*l93h. Bellak, L. and S. Bellak, Children's Apperception Test, New York: C.P.S. Co., Box #2, Gracie Station, 19H9. Brittain, H. L., "A Study in Imagination," Pedigggical Seminary, Vol. 1%, 1907: PP- 137-207- Cantril, H. and C. Allport, "Recent Applications of the Study of Values," Journal of Abnormal and Social Psychology, Vol. XXVIII, 1933, PP- 259-273- Conn, J. H. and L. Kanner, "Children's Awareness of Sex Difference," Journal of Child Psychiatry, Vol. I, 19h7. pp- 3-57. Dearborn, G. V. N., The Psychology of Clothes, Princeton: Psychological Review Co., 1918. Dickens, D., "Social Participation as a Criterion for Determining Scientific Minimum Standards in Clothing," Rural Sociology, Vol. 9, 19th, pp. 3hi-3h9. Flaccus, L. w., "Remarks on the PsychOIOgy of Clothes," Pedagogical Seminagy, Vol. XIII, 1906, pp. 61-83. Fbrm, W. E., and G. P. Stone, "The Social Significance of Clothing in Occupational Life," Michigan State College Agricultural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin, No. 2h7, June, 1955. , and G. P. Stone, "urbanism, Anonymity, and Status Symbolism," American Journal of Sociology, Vol. LXII, N0. 5, MBrCh; 1957- Freud, S., Tetem and Taboo, New York: Moffet, Yard and Co., 1919. Goffman, E., "Symbols of Class Status," British Journal of Sociology, Vol. II, December, 1951, pp. 29h—3oh. Gray, 0., "Orientations to Fashion," unpublished M. A. thesis, Department of Sociology and AnthrOpOIOgy, Michigan State College, August, 1953. Hagood, M. J. and D. 0. Price, Statistics for Sociologists, New York: Henry Holt and Co., Revised, 1952. Hall, G. 8., "Some Aspects of the Early Sense of Self, American Journal of Psychology, Vol. IX, 1898. llh Hall, K. B., "A Study of Some Factors that Contribute to Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions in the Clothing of Ninety- -two Urban.Iow Income Families," unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, The Pennsylvania State University, June, 1955. Hartwell, S. U., M. L. Hutt, G. Andrew, and R. E. walton, "The.Michigan Picture Test: Diagnostic and therapeutic possibilities of a new projective test for children," American Journal of OrthOpsychiatry, Vol. 21, 1951, pp. 12h-137. Hanry, W. E., "The Thematic Apperception Technique in the Study of Group and Cultural Problems," in H. H. Anderson and G. L. Anderson (editors), An Introduction to Projective TEChniques, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1951, pp. 230-277. Hoult, T. F., "Clothing as a Factor in Social Ratings," American Sociological Review, No. 19, June, 19st, pp. 32h-32 . Hurlock, E. B., "Mbtivation in Fashion," Archives of Psycholggy, No. 111, 1929. Jacobson, w. E., "First Impressions of Classmates," Journal of Applied PgChOlOfl’ V01- 29’ N0: 2’ 191‘s, pp. 139-1“. King, E., "A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relationships in Twenty-five Selected Families," unpublished M. A. thesis, Michigan State College, 1951. Kroeber, A. L., Anthmpology Today, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1953. Leask, G., "A Survey of the Clothing Preference and Buying Practices of 100 Girls of West Division High School in Milwaukee, Wisconsin," Unpublished Ms A. thesis, Michigan State College, 195%. Ierner, M5, America as a Civilization, New York: Simon and Schuster, 1957. Ldbby,'w., "The Imagination of Adolescents," American JOurnal of Psycholggy, v01. 19, 1908, pp. 21‘9-2520 Lindsmith, A. and A. Strauss, Social Psychology, New York: Dryden Press, Inc., 1950. Linton, E., The Study of Man, New York: D. A. Appleton-Century Co., 1936. Iynes, E., A Surfeit of Honey, New York: Harper and Brothers, 1953. Macaulay, E., “Some Notes on the Attitude of Children to Dress," British Journal of Medical ngchology, No. 9, 1929, pp. 150-158. ' Mayman, M. and B. Kutner, "Reliability in Analyzing Thematic Apperception Test Stories," Journal of Abnormal Psychology, Vol. #2, l9h7, pp- 365-368- llS Mead, G. E., Mindy_Self, and Society, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1936. Mbrgan, C. D. and H. A. Murray, "A Method for Investigation of Phanta- sies: The T A T," Archives of Neurology and ngchiatry, Vol. 3%, 1935: PP\.289-306» Morgan, J. N., Consumer Economics, New York: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1955. Murray, H. A., Explorations in Personality, New York: Oxford University Press, 1938. Murray, H. A., Thematic Apperception Tagg, Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, l9h3. Park, R. E., "The City: Suggestions for the Investigation of Human Behavior in the Urban Environment," in P.K. Hatt and A. J. Reiss (editors), Reader in urban Sociology, Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, l95l. Parsons, T., The Social System, Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, 1951. , The Structure of Social Action, Glencoe, Illinois: The Free Press, l9h9. Rosencranz, M. L., VA Study of Interest in Clothing Among Selected Groups of Married and Unmarried Young Women," Unpublished.M. A. thesis, Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts, Michigan State College, l9h8. , "Relevance of Occupation and Income to Mbthers' Selection of Clothing for Daughters," Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin, No. 268, August, 1958. Rosner, A., "A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Practices of 100 Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Illinois," unpublished M. A. thesis, Michigan State College, l95h. O Rudofsky, 31, Are Clothes Mode 93, Chicago: Paul Theobald, 19u7. Ryan,.M. 8., Psychological Effects of Clothing Part 1., "Survey of the Opinions of College Girls," Cornell university Agricultural Station Bulletin; No. 882, September, 1952. , Psychological Effects of Clothing Part II, "Comparison of College Students with Urban Students, and Boys with Girls," Cornell university Agricultural Station Bulletin, No. 898, July, 1953- , Psychological Effects of Clothing Part III, "Report of Inter- views with a Selected Sample of College WOmen," Cornell university Agricultural Station Bulletin, No. 900, August, 1953. llo Scheid, A., "The Father's Hole in Relat or to t'i. Clotilig of Farm Families,” Unpubliszei M. A. th:.s is, Michigan State College, 1951. Schneidman, E 8., May_e A ‘ Story (MAPS) T313, New York: The ——-T—-—- ‘o-Ah-w... Psychol ogi.al Corpora.lon, I949 Shaw, G. B-, "Sh law 3 Idea on Garb," Harpers‘ Weekly, Vol. #9, 1905, p- #57- Silverman, S. S.,Cof‘1ng and Appearance: Their Psychological Impli- cations for Tear-Age Girls, New York: Buzeau of Publications, Teachers College, (Jolumbia University, l9hS. Stein, M. I., The Thematic Apperception Test, Cambridge, Mass.: Addision- Wesley Press, lnc., 1950. Steiner, R. I , and J. Weiss, ”Veblen Revised in the Light of Counter- Snobbery," JOIrnal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, Vol. IX, 1951. pp 2: 3- -208 Stone, G. P., "Clothing and Social Structure: A Study of Expressive Symbols in Community Life," unpublished manuscript, Department of SociOIOgy and Anthropology, Michigan State College, 1953. , and W. H. Form, ”Clothing Inventories and Preferences Among Rural and Urban Families," Michigan State College Agricultural Experiment Station Tachnical Bulletin, No. 2A6, March, 1955- , and W. H. Form, "The Local Community Clothing Market: A Study of the Social and Social Psychological Contexts of Shopping," Michigan State Agriculgural Experiment Station Technical Bulletin, No. 262, I957. , and W H. Form, and H. B. Strahan, "The Social Climate of Decision in Shopping for Clothes,” Journal of Home Economics, Vol. #6, No. 2, February, l95h, pp. 85-88. Swartz, L. A., "Social-situation Pictures in the Psychiatric IIterview," American Journal of Orthopsychiatgy, Vol. 2, 1932, pp. l2h-l32. Thompkins, S. S. The T‘emltlc Appercgption Test The Theory and Technique of Interpretation, New York: Grun.e and Stratton, l9h7. Thompson, C. E., Ttimfson Mo? iication of the Whematic Apperception Test, Cambridge, Mas s.: Harvald University PIess, I9H9. Veblen, T., The Theory of the Leisure Clagg, New York: The Modern Library, Inc., 1933. Vener, A. M., " dolescent Orientations to Clothing: A Social-Psychological Interpretation," unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State University, March, 1957. 117 , "Stratification Aspects of Clothing Importance," unpublished .M. S. thesis, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State College, June, 1953. Warden, J., "Some Factors Affecting the Satisfaction and Dissatisfactions with Clothing of Nemen Students in the College of Education and the College of liberal Arts," Unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, The Pennsylvania State university, 1955. warner,‘w. L., M. MBeker, and K. Eells, Social Class in America, Chicago: Science Research Associates, l9h9. . Warning, M; C., "The Implications of Social Class for Clothing Behavior: The Acquisition and Use of Apparel for Girls Seven, Eight, and ‘ Nine Years of Age in Three Social Classes in Des Moines, IOwa," Unpublished Ph. D. dissertation, Department of Sociology and Anthropology, Michigan State University, June, 1956. APPENDIX A GENERAL COMMENTS; CARDS LIKED BEST AND LEAST 119 GENERAL COMMENTS; CARDS LIKED BEST AND LEAST In order to better evaluate the symbolic use of clothing by the informants, their general attitude in relation to the T A T pictures and interview procedures was assessed. This section deals with general comments made during the interview and the responses to which cards the informant liked best and least. General Comments A few respondents stated at the beginning of the interview that they were not "good story tellers" and had to be reassured by the inter- viewer that any story was acceptable. The simple directions "to tell what led up to the situation in the pictures; what the characters are thinking and feeling at the moment; and what the outcome will be". was adequate for all but six subjects. These six women were, however, able to make up a story for Card I after the directions were repeated. several times. Comments after the interview produced approximately seven or eight negative statements including such remarks as the following: ."These are awful modernistic drawings." "I don'tknow what these pictures are supposed to be." "I don't like any of the pictures; I think it's in poor taste to show some of these things--taverns, a street with soliciting going on--I don't care for that type of thing." "There's not a happy picture there-—so many conflicts involved like sex and social strata." "Bunch of nonsense-male of them actually improper though." "I don’t do a good Job with this sort of thing, I'm.not very observing." 120 "They're all nice pictures- I can't say I didn't like any of them." At least three women volunteered the type of comment that showed that they comprehended the general idea behind the study. It is also quite likely that others made similar comments after the tape—recorder was no longer being used. The first comment came from an informant in the upper social class while the last two were from the lower social strata. "They show how much you Judge by clothing more than you realize. I mean without thinking why you immediately classify a girl or a man to a certain chass by how they are dressed." "These are pretty good little pictures-~they give you an idea of contrast between different people the way they dress--what other people think about it." "In other words clothes and personal appearance can make one's life. There is something about it that gives you courage. Some people might call it false courage, but I wouldn't. Cause I can clean up and go uptown, right now I can go uptown like this, or I can spend an hour and that is a short time for a woman, and I can go uptown and I can feel a lot better, than if I would if I'd go uptown like this. It gives you backing, it gives you courage in personal appearance. If I would go uptown like this I wouldn't get out of the car. The only thing that would get me out of the car would be if I had to go for a doctor. I can take an hour and clean up and that wouldn't be in the best way, but you would look neat and I would walk uptown, to heck with the car. See what I mean? I think anyone has to have a certain amount of clothes to give them courage. It ain't false courage either or false pride. It's Just it. Don't you feel that way yourself? (Yeah, I see what you mean.) But there is a type of people, regardless of what they lock like if they are clean, they can't be dirty, if they are clean they can wear anything and look nice. But I'm not that type of person, because it is my, what would you call it now, what I have got in my head. I could forget anything. Suppose it was Just like it was when I went to that banquet tonight. Everybody told me how nice I look. But I didn't think so, I had to feel right. I'd go in and look at my dresses in there and put on two or three dresses, and when I get the dress I feel right in I feel like a million dollars. Makes an altogether different person out of me. That's an awful thing to say but that's true for me." (on, no it isn't. It's what you think that counts.) 121 During the interviews Cards II and VII seemed to be more difficult for informants than the other cards. Actually fewer stories were fabricated for both Card II and Card VII. The background was often mentioned as a disturbing influence in Card VII, whereas the backgrounds of other pictures seemed to aid most informants in the telling of their stories. Card Liked Best The greatest percentage of informants liked Card FDur best. (See TABLE XXI) Card One was selected by 21.9% of the informants 1 given for preferring Card followed by Card Six (15.7%). The reasons Four were usually expressed in terms of ease of story telling, the fact that the characters looked happy or that the picture looked "true to life." Those who preferred Card One did so because the story was easy to tell, the informants liked a school or church scene, and because the picture was cheerful, it was easy to tell a story about, and that it looked important. Card Liked Least Over a third of the informants disliked Card Three. (See TABLE XXIV). About twenty percent did not like Card Seven and seventeen percent disliked Card Two. Some typical comments about Card Three are as follows: "It has a certain cheapness or sordidness." "It's overdone--it suggests everything that's lewd." "That picture doesn't make me happy." "That picture doesn‘t make me happy." "There's too much disrespect for age." 1See Appendix D for a complete set of reasons for card preference. "It's disgusting--it shouldn't be shown to people.” Those who didn't like Card Seven felt that it didn‘t make sense, they were puzzled by the man with a skirt, or they didn't like to see a fight. Informants who disliked Card Two couldn't understand it, or didn't care for violence or fighting. It is interesting to note in Table XXV that there was a social class difference in the card preferences. The upper social class liked Card Four best, while the lower social class preferred Card One. The upper social class also liked Cards Two, Three and Seven somewhat better than the lower social class. When age of the informant was considered there was a significant difference in relation to Card Two. A significantly greater percentage of younger respondents liked Card Two than did older respondents. The older group liked Cards One, Three, Four and Five somewhat better than the younger group. (See TABLE XXVI) In relation to rural urban background, the most striking differences in card preference were those concerning Cards Two and Four. A significantly greater percentage of people with an urban background liked Card Two, while a significantly greater percentage of informants with a rural background preferred Card Four. The rural group also liked Cards One and Seven somewhat better than the urban group. (See TABLE XXVII) 123 TABLE XXIV PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF CARDS LIKED BEST AND CARDS LIKED LEAST BY ALL INFORMANTS Liked Best Liked Least Card gpercent ‘_percent I 21.9 0.0 II 9.8 17.1 III 9.8 36J+ IV 2h.h 3.7 v 6.1 lh.6 VI 15.7 2.5 VII 9.8 19.5 N9 Response 25 6.2 Total 100 100% TABLE XXV PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF CARDS LIKED BEST AND CARDS LIKED LEAST BY SOCIAL CLASS Liked Best Liked Least Upper Social Lower. Social Upper Social Lower Social Card Class Class Class Class ' pgrcent . percent percent percent I 15.14 27.9 0.0 0.0 II 10.3 9.h 12.8 20.9 III 12.8 6.9 33.2 39.h IV 30.7 18.6 2.5 A.7 v 5.2 6.9 17.9 11.7 VI 12.8 18.6 5.1 0.0 VII 10.3 9.h 26.0 13.9 No Response 2.5 2.3 2.5 9.1+ Tbtal 100% 100$ 100$ 100$ 12% TABLE XXVI PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF CARDS LIKED BEST AND CARDS LIKED LEAST BY AGE Liked Best Liked Least Card Under ho DO and over Under £0 410 and over 3‘ i I 21.7 23.h 0.0 0.0 II 15.2* 3.3* 21.7 9.9 III 8.7 13.1 37.0 33.u IV 21.7 23.h h.3 3.3 v h.3 9.9 8.7 20.0 VI 17.5 16.7 0.0 6.7 VII 8.7 6.6 19.6 23.h No Response 2.2 _3.3 ’ 8.7 3.3 Total 100.0 100.0 "loo.0 100.0 *Difference begween percentages is significant at the 5 percent level. TABLE XXVII PERCENTAGE DISTRIBUTION OF CARDS LIKED BEST AND LEAST BY RURAL-URBAN BACKGROUND Liked Best Liked Least Card Rural urban Rural urban % i 5% 36 I 23.h 21.7 0.0 0.0 II 3.h* 15.2* 23.h 15.2 III 6.7 15.2 33.0 3h.7 IV 36.5* 19.5* 0.0 5.5 V 6.7 h.h 19.9 13.0 VI 9.9 15.2 0.0 h.3 VII 13.h h.h 19.9 18.7 No Regponse 0.0 h.h 3.h 8.6 Tetal 100.00 100.0 100.0 100.0 *Difference between percentages is significant at the Sirlevel. APPENDIX B RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN INDEPENDENT VARIABLES 126 TABLE XXVIII CONTINGENCY COEFFICIENTS FOR INDEPENDENT VARIABLES ' '\ F" "“ ’I'“ -»'. a." s‘» - 1. run wrbo—o‘ urn-ta..- ~— o~~ ups-L‘s“ '“W-I—.~- ~-. 0‘- v- -.I-‘- v.— _ . ”new v'n' .a-um on“ m- _%4mu.m be -M ‘ U) Q) 5 (D u 2.? a 5 E S r-i O Q ,0 '1"! g C) H O H n .4 'p m :3 :? £ Social Class - .2h* .lh* .30* .02 .22* .08* .01 .08* Occupation .2h* - .09* .06* .00 .21* .08* .00 .0h Income .lh* .O9* - .OH .01 .21* .07* .Ol .02 Education .30* .06* .0h - .00 .08* .08* .00 .06* Rural—urban .02 .00 .Ol .00 - .02 .04 .00 .00 No. Of Memberships .22* .21* .21* .08* .02 - .07* .03 .05* No. or Magazines .08* .08* .07* .08* .0h .07* - .00 .07* Age .01 .00 .Ol .00 .OO .03 .OO - .OO Verbal Factor .08* .0A .02 .06* .00 .05* .07* .00 - * - the probability of Chi-square is below the 5 percent level. APPENDIX C INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADMINISTRATION OF T A T 128 INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADMINISTRATION OF THE T A T In order to make the data of all interviewers comparable, it is essential to standardize the prc edure. To do this, it will be necessary for the interviewer to MEMORIZE the instructions, and to elaborate, emphasize, etc. only under two conditions: I. If the subject replies in the negative when asked if he understands the instructions. 2. If the subject doesn't comply with the instructions even though he indicated that he understood them. INSTRUCTIONS: INTRODUCTION A: For persons of AVERAGE intelligence--I am going to show you some pictures one at a time and I want you to make up as dramatic story as you can for each. Tell what has led up to the event shown in the picture, what is happening at the moment, what the characters are feeling and thinking, and then tell what the outcome will be. Speak your thoughts as they come to your mind. Do you understand? Here is the first picture. INTRODUCTION B: For persons of LITTLE education or intelligence-- I have some pictures here that I am going to show you, and for each picture, I want you to make up a story. Tell what the people are feeling and thinking and how it will come out. You can make up any kind of story you please. Do you under- stand? Well then, here is the first picture. The instructions should be given slowly and clearly, and in a natural voice. Avoid sounding as though you.were giving instructions, thereby avoiding the danger of talking down to the subject. Aim at sounding casual and unrehearsed. The Judgment of which set of in- structions to use will be made largely on the basis of the ability of the subject. Avoid overuse of the second (B) introduction which is suitable for children, psychotics, and adults who are BELOW AVERAGE in intelligence. Many subjects will spontaneously indicate what confused them about the ixstructions, in which case the examiner should attempt to clarify this part or parts of the instructions, being careful to avoid introducing any new ideas. Uhder no circumstances is he to use any of the pictures to illustrate the instructions or tell any stories himself. Frequently, the subject is confused about what constitutes a story and how long, how det"iled, etc., it need be. He can be then told that people tell all sorts of stories to these pictures, and that you are interested in hearing his stories, and he can tell any kind of stories that he wishes. In some cases, non-comprehension will result of distractions, poor hearing, etc. and the instructions will have to be repeated in their entirety. In other cases, non- comprehension will be a result of misjudgment of the subject's I29 intellectual level and tr e second form of the instructions should then be given. Many subjects. will claim to have grasped the instructions even if they are not quite clear as to what is expected, and others will ignore the instructiors to tell a story and proceed to merely describe the picture. Bot i of these situations should be hardled as follows: If the subject does not comply with the instructions either through non-comprehension of the task or avoidance of the situation, the examiner should re formulate the instructions using whatever the subject has said about the pictures, preferably in his own words, to indicate what is wanted, 1. e. ., if for the first picture the subject says, "That looks like a woman going shopping, the old fellow looks mad," the examiner should help the subject to tell a story by request— ing that he tell a story about these two people--how do they happen to be there in the same picture--what's going on, etc. Under no circum- stances should he artibrarily single out one of the characters and center attention on him by asking a specific question about him. If the subject himself centers attention on one character (i.e., these are three people sitting around the table, and this woman is very _ annoyed about something and is fighting) then it is permissable for the examiner to FOLLOW THE TREND of the subject and inquire what the woman is annoyed about and what led up to this situation--what she is thinking and feeling--while at the same time bringing the other figures into the picture by asking who the other people are and how they happen to be there, etc. It is essential that in this reformulation of the initial instructions, the interviewer reformulate all the things asked for in the instructions, namely--what led up to the situation shown in the picture, what is happening at the moment, what the characters are feeling and thinking, rather than.just selecting out one of them and thereby skewing his results and making it impossible to compare them with those of the other interviewers. It is necessary under these circumstances to be very tactful and not make the subject feel that he is doing everything all wrong and you are trying to force or press him too hard. You can to a large extent avoid this situation by using the words of the subject and helping him develop HIS idea. Act as though what he said was the nucleus of a very interesting story or had very good possibilities (without overdoing it of course), even though you have heard the same words fifty times before. It is prefer- able to postpone asking about the outcome until the subject has finished his story or remarks about the picture. If the subject complains that he has never been any good at telling stories, has no imagination, etc., try to encourage him and put him at his ease by telling him that most pe0ple feel this way when they first start to tell stories to these pictures, but once they get started they find that it's easier than they thought and really surprise themselves with the good stories that they can tell when they once put their mind to it. Having once for each picture reformulated the initial instructions for the subject according to the procedure given above, no further prompt- ing with the exception of asking for the outcome of the story, is to be done. Further prompting is undesirable for two reasons: (I) it is likely to antagonize the subject, thereby unfavorably influencing the 130 results; (2) it will make the data of different interviewers non- comparable since the skill and perseverence of different interviewers will vary considerably. At all times, the examiner must be wary of ruining his rapport with the subject. If the subject is antagonized by the prompting on the part of the examiner, it should be discontinued. If any specific questions (preceding events, thoughts, etc.) antagonize the subject, and threaten to disrupt the testing relationship, they should be discontinued. The interviewer must at all times be conscious of the purpose of the prompting, which is to try in a STANDARDIZED fashion, as opposed to a haphazard one, to get the subject to TELL A STORY with some semblance of a plot--to PROJECT his own drives, etc. onto the characters in the story. Aside from the restating or refOrmulating of the original instructions, gg'othe§.probing is to be done during the test preper. After all the cards have been responded to, the cards are again presented to the subject, who is then told, "Those were very interesting stories you told me. I am going to show you the cards again briefly one at a time, and would like you to tell me what there was about each card which suggested the story to you. Hege 33 the first card, what do you think was the main thing about thegpicture which gave you_your idea of R?“ Here it will be helpful for the examiner to restate the main theme of the subject's story, avoiding picking out any one phase of the story which HE thinks is more fruitful as far as the analysis of the data is concerned. In this initial phase of the inquiry we are interested in getting at the particulars of the picture which determined the subject's response. The first sentence of this introduction to the inquiry will of necessity have to be varied for subjects who blocked completely or told only very sketchy stories which were really only remarks or descriptions of the pictures. In the case of extreme blocking, it would be well to omit any reference to the performance of the subject who is probably self conscious _about it anyway, and alter the second sentence to "What did you think was the most outstanding thing about this picture when you looked at it?" In a few cases, having gone through all the cards once will serve to relax the subject and when he is again confronted with the pictures he may start to tell stories to them. In such a case, the examiner should proceed as though this were the performance pr0per and then go back and do the inquiry after the second performance is completed. For subjects who merely described the pictures, the instructions should be changed to "Those were very interesting ideas you had," and then proceed with the original instructions. With the exception of these two variations, the instructions should be MEMORIZED to insure the comparability of data, and to avoid leading, pointed questions which either miss the boat entirely or put words into the subjects mouth. The previous question (from the other instruction sheet), "What did you particularly notice about this card?" should not be used in any subsequent interviews. It is likely to be a dangerous question in that it frequently leads the subject to describe the more obvious features of the card (frequently the larger things) which may or may not have any personal significance for him, serving merely to enable 131 him to avoid the effoxt of the inquiry situation. Questions like, "What first caught your eye?”, ”What was most outstanding in the picture?" are all to be avoided, since they don't get at what we are interested in, namely, what conditioned the subject's projection. If this first general question does not elicit any clothing response, the interviewer should further encourage the subject by asking if there was anything else. If tlere is still no clothing response, the examiner should follow up specific responses of remarks which are likely to have been elicited by clothing clues in the pictures. In this part of the inquiry, the examiner will have to rely on his own judgment to a con- siderable extent, but there are, nevertheless, certain rules which he should follow. The examiner must at all times keep in mind the purpose of the study and, more specifically, the use to which the Projective Material derived from this aspect of the study will be put. Since it is not the purpose of this study to do a complete personality diagnosis of each subject, it is not necessary to ask any questions in the inquiry concerning the needs, drives, mood, etc. of the characters. Restrict yourself to following up adjectives like poor, rich, old, young, foreign, deranged, sinister, etc., nouns like business man, waitress, bartender, and other professions or jobs, criminal, masculine, feminine, etc., which are likely to yield information on clothigg. Remember that you must be as indirect as possible, because any clues you give the subject will be seized upon, and utilized during the remainder of the interview by the subject as he attempts to do what he thinks YOU want him to do, or as is the case with some personality types he will deny certain things because he feels that you are trying to get him to say them; i.e., to influence him unduly. If you are still unsuccessful in eliciting clothing responses, discontinue the inquiry. When following up specific responses or words in the attempt to elicit clothing responses, BE CAREFUL OF YOUR LANGUAGE. Avoid using words or phrases which will put the subject on the defensive, make him uneasy and anxious, or hostile. Never say, "What made you think he was a lawyer?" or "Where did you get the idea that he was a lawyer?" This type of formulation puts the subject on the defensive and defeats the purpose of the inquiry. Say, rather, "What suggests the idea of a lawyer?", or "What gave you the idea of a lawyer?” Each interviewer should MEMORIZE both of these formulations and use them interchangeably for variety in the inquiry. Although it may seem that there is little difference between "What suggests the idea of a lawyer?" and ”Where did you get the idea of a lawyer?" or "Where did you get the idea that he was a lawyer?" a close examination of the alternatives will show that the last two formulations are dangerous and very likely to make the subject hostile or defensive. 132 Here more than any other place in the inquiry it is essential to record VERBATIM what the subject says as well as WHAT YOU ASK HIM. Do not record your Opinions about what you think the subject was influenced by. This type of data is worthless. If the subject is curious or nervous about the purpose of the inquiry, reassure him by telling him that peOple tell all sorts of stories to these pictures, and that you are only interested in what type of stories he will tell. Avoid the use of the word, "test," since this is likely to frighten people. If he is not satisfied with this, tell him that you are studying imagination, and how peOple go about telling stories. FDr people of less than average intelligence, the word imagination should not be used. These people can merely be told that you are study ng story telling or how people go about telling stories. In the course of your interviewing you are bound to meet at least one person who will be overly suspicious and antagonistic. There will be people who will bait you and put you in the subordinate position because they cannot stand being in the "inferior" position of the subject no matter how pleasant you try to make it for them. In these cases, if it is impossible to avoid their incessant questioning, complaint, etc., you.will do well to let them assume a dominant position. This can be done by putting yourself in the subordinate position of a poor working person who is merely doing what he is told and.who has a limited amount of knowledge about it. This permits the subject to do you a favor and thus saves his face to a certain extent. With this type you must be especially careful not to continue probing if he demonstrates hostility toward the interview situation, since probing destroys the feeling of security you have been trying to build up in the subject. After the performance and the inquiry are completed, the following questions should be asked: Of all the cards which did you like best? Which did you like least? Were there any pictures presented here of which you disapproved or which you feel should not be shown to other peOple? APPENDIX D CODE USED FOR TRANSFERRING INFORMATION TO IBM CARDS Al. 0 47k» —40\\n CODE FOR CLOTHING T A T Clothing not mentioned on Card I or probe for Card I One line or less of clothing comments Two lines of " " 3 lines of " " h lines of " " 5 lines of " " 6 lines of " " 7 lines of " " 8 lines of " " 9 lines of " " X 10 lines of " " Y 11 or more lines of #2. Same as "#1 for Card II h3. Same as "#1" for Card III hh. Same as "Al" for Card IV hS. Same as "Al" for Card V #6. Same as "hi" for Card VI h7. Same as "Al" for Card VII Character whose clothing is mentioned AB. 0 l R) «Ne-w No character's clothes mentioned Character 1 The Others NOne in this column 13% 19. SO. 51. 52. +4 >4 «3 a3 44 *4 «1mm Ji'w O\\fl Number 53- O 1 Character 5 II 6 None in this column Character 9 " lO " ll " 12 None in this Character 13 " lh n 15 " 16 None in this Character 17 " 18 n 19 The Others None in this column No character's clothes mentioned 1-2 3-1. 5-6 7-8 column column of characters whose clothing is mentioned 135 9-10 O\\n 11-12 13-1h 15-16 17-18 >4 \0 (Dd 19-20 Y .More than 20 Stated that clothing gave idea for story 5h. 0 None 1 Card I 2 Card II 3 Card III h Card IV Y None in this column 55. 5 Card V 6 Card VI 7 Card VII Y None in this column (TOtal number of Cards in which clothing gave idea for story.) 56. 1 l 2 2 .5:— #00 None Mentioned Clothing Incongruity 57- 58. 59- 61. 1 Age I 2 3 4700 U1 Formal I Age II Formal II None in this column Age III Size III Occasion III Status IV None in this column Formal IV Age IV Formal V Sex V Status V None in this column Age V Age VI Status VI FOrmal VI None in this column Cultural VII Formal VII Sex VII Status VII None in this column 137 138 TOtal Incongruity 62. 63. l 2 \O'OD-xl O\\fl 43' l or 2 \O -\1 \J'I U) 0 '1 or 10 11 or l2 13 or IA 15 or 16 17 or 18 19 or 20 None in this column Ranges of themes Card I; Articles of Clothinngentioned Some are dressed for school; look like school boys and girls. Sweaters and skirts or T shirts are apprOpriate for school Sweater and skirts are teen agers clothes; are sensible clothes No. 2 is well dressed, neatly dressed. or nicely dressed. No. 2 is from an upper class; has more money is above him. No. 2 is not dressed for school or college; over dressed. No. 2 is dressed differently; not dressed like others; not dressed like one of the crowd. No. 2 is dressed for church. No. 2 wants to attract boys or boys are attracted to her. No. 2 is a type that always wears those clothes; foolish, a show-off. No. 2 is a floozy; a fast girl; a tough character, a Sady Thompson. No. 2 won't have many girl friends because of her clothes, others wil criticize; make fun, she'll be an outsider or be embarrassed. None in this column 6h 65. O\\n 4:— 00 CD4 \OCDKIO\\.D-l=‘ Girls envy "2" or will imitate "2". No. 2 is new in town, if she goes to that school she will change. No. 2 is dressed for special occasion as dinner, dance, party. No. 2 is older because of clothes or is trying to look older. Mentioned purse or heels Mentioned jewelry MEntioned gloves low cut dress or tight dress Black dress or dressy dress Boy (No. A) is better dressed Boys not dressed up; will have to change None in this column Themes on Card II; Articles of Clothing Mentioned Clothes are related to age; No. 5 dressed older than 6. No. 5 looks like a radical No 5 is too dressed up. No. 5 is meticulously dressed or well dressed. No. 5 will take coat off if it gets warm or to be like other boy. No. 5 is a "mama's boy," a "sissy" or a "good" boy. No. 5 is a newcomer or visitor. No. 5 is wealthy, is a rich man's son' has more money for clothes. No. 5 is a pastor, dean, professor, teacher because of clothes. No. 5 is dressed for evening or going out. No. 6 has no grooming; is SIOppy; is an outlaw or murderer. None in this column 66. 67. \OCD-va‘lrw 1&0 No. 6 is typical school boy or typical AmeriCan boy because of clothes. No. 6 is a woman No. 5 is borrowing clothes No. 5 suit, tie, coat mentioned Shoes or sox mentioned No. 6 is more comfortable They are arguing about or discussing clothing "T" shirt, short sleeves or sport shirt mentioned No. 6 was working somewhere Clothes or chest mentioned No. 5 is school or college boy because of clothes None in this column. Themes on Card III; Articles of Clothinngentioned Clothes not apprOpriate for age; she wants to look young. Her clothes are not appropriate for size or build. Her clothes do not go together well (as anklets and sox) She is leppy, messy; doesn't look good; doesn't care how she looks. Her clothes are too tight or too form fitting. Her clothes are of a lower class type; or the "poor" class. Her clothes are out of style; too short in the style sense. She has working clothes; she has a hard life; must work hard. She is a cook or housekeeper. She is wearing clothes given to her. She is comfortably dressed. None in this column. 69. \OCD-xlO‘xv'l \OCDKIOU'I-ll’ 1&1 Hussy, she is trying to draw attention by her clothes. Men notice her clothes. No. 8 doesn't like her clothes. No. 8 is attracted to her because of her clothes. She is the type that would go to a saloon. No. 8 is not well dressed. No. 8 is a type that would go to a saloon. Sweater and skirt mentioned Shoes or sox mentioned Purse mentioned She needs to wear a girdle or "bra." None in this column Themes on Card IV; Articles of Clothinngentioned Clothes of "10" show occupation; truck driver or factory worker. No. l0 isn't dressed as the others. No. 10 lives there; he is allright for where he lives. No. 10 did not expect them or he would dress differently. No. 9 is visiting because of clothes No. 9 is dressed to go out or dressed in a party dress. Purse means going out ”9" and "10” not dressed alike No. "ll" is older because of conservative or matronly clothes. No. 9 is young because of clothes. No. 9 not dressed for surroundings; she is a spendthrift, he can't afford her; she is rich. None in this column 70. 71. \OCD-xlmm-ll' 1A2 No. 9 is too daring or foolish; others do not approve. No 11 is visiting because of clothes. No. ll is well dressed or well groomed; has good taste. No. 11 is dressed to go out. Hat mentioned; hat means going out. ”IO" is poor, not much money. No. ll is too dressed up. No. ll is in a housecoat; just got up or is going to bed. No. ll lives there because she has a housedress No. 9 knows how to wear clothes; is well dressed. Other None in this column. Themes on Card V; Articles of Clothing Mentioned Clothing of "12" could be men's or women's; doubts sex. No. 12 is criticizing "13" No. 12 will always dress that way Assumes "12" is a boy One dressed better than the other; good grooming vs. poor grooming. Shabby clothes--unemployment or poverty. City girl vs. country girl theme Good clothes--money; poor girl, rich girl theme No. 12 has uniform or work clothes. No. 13 is a society girl; SOphisticated No. 13 is nicely dressed or "dressed up." None in this column. 73- \O (D K] O\ '6} .rr' ~10\\fl 1343. No. 13 is older because of clothes No. 13 is a westerner No. 13 has on new clothes No. 13 is a type that won't change; is cheap; wants to attract attention. No. l3 is admired or envied by ”12.” It depends on occasion who should change clothes Both are imprOperly dressed ”l3” criticizing "12”, No. l2 doesn't know how to dress. What "12" wears is her own business. Clothes of "13" show occupation; entertainer, teacher, social worker. No. ”12” will change her way of dressing. None in this column. Themes on Card VI; Articles of Clothing Mentioned Clothes reveal class or status of "IA." Clothes tell age; T shirt--youth; suit--older man Clothes tell occupation of "15"; gardner, chauffer, truck driver. Clothes tell occupation of "lh"; lawyer, judge, principal, business man, school teacher, doctor, banker, minister, designer, fight promoter. No. IA is a ”man of the world" because of clothes. Hat and purse of woman--visitor Hat and purse--going out No. 15 and 16 came in a hurry because of working clothes or housedress Clothes of 15 and l6--rural or small town No. 15 or No. 16 do not belong here. No. 1% has a new suit None in this column 71.. 75- 0\ CW (1)-Q No. 15 and 16 are poor No. 15 is an athlete (prize fighter, discus thrower, football player or coach No. 16 is the athletic type; tell by shoes; "riding" hat. No. 16 is an older lady No. 16 has clothes that are out of style. No. 15 is SIOppy or messy No. 16 is well dressed or better dressed No. 16 is poorly dressed; not well dressed No. 16 looks as if she has money Clothes of 1h are being admired Other None in this column Themes on Card VII; Articles of Clothing Mentioned No. 19 of another culture (Oriental, Scottish, Russian) oriental coolie, laundry boy, servant; a refugee; monk; communist, martyr. No. 19 is a woman; no question to sex No. 19 is a man; no question of sex Doubt concerning sex of 19 because of clothes on hair No. l9 is poor No. 19 is in an institution; a prisoner; patient wearing night- gown No. 19 doesn't fit in; is odd; is wearing a maternity (ress. Skirt mentioned Shoes or sandals mentioned Tam or cap mentioned Jacket mentioned None in this column 1A5 76. 1 Clothes of 18 show occupation (gardener, bartender, guard, policeman, minister, care—taker, working class or middle class; retired businessman. 2 No. 18 is comfortably dressed kl.) (I) No. l is SlOppy; a bum with shirt open R No. 18 is an American 5 Clothes of "17" show occupation (detective, guard, soldier, minister, butler, student, worker, interpreter. 6 No. 17 is leaving because of coat «J No. 17 is well dressed 8 No. 17 is an American ‘0 ’22 O H .\] H m rumpled, unkept, hoodlum, incorrigible O No. 17 is a foreigner X No. 17 is a prisoner Y None in this column Easells‘ssssstsas 1332 77' l POlysyllabic words common 2 Many adjectives LA} Many adverbs Q h Compound or complex sentences 1 point for each VVVVVVVVVVVVV 5 Good grammar 6 Simple Story or plot in 5 or more. 7 Good, original story in 5 or more. 78. Card Preference 1 CI 2 C11 3 CIII 5 C V C\ C VA 7 C VII Y NO I.-3;3p1.=nk33 YQ- Card not 1 ked l C I 6 C VI 7 C VII Y No Response 80. Name of Interviewer Ettal Awareness Score 36. 0—9 as numbered for lst digit 37. 0-9 as numbered for 2nd digit 38. 0-9 as numbered for 3rd digit. Score (add bl, h2, h3, hh, h5, #6, #7 and no. of responses in #8, h9, 50, 51, 52. 5h. 55, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 63, 6h, 65. 66, 67, 68, 69, 7o, 71, 72, 73, 7h, 75, 76. 1&6 m flea—arena E I” y 8 NF 3 Ma Q mg.ng an -wwwww HY x...» (w. , is.” 7;... .\