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This is to certify that the

thesis entitled
A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Practices

of one Hundred Girls of West Division High
in Milwaukee, Wisconsin

presented by
Grace Leask
has been accepted towards fulfillment

of the requirements for

_i_'1°_AL_degree in TGXtiles 8: Clothing

 

jor professor

Date July 29’ 1953

 

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A SURVFY OF THF CLOTHING PFFPFFENCF€ ARD BUYING
‘PFACTICEJ Cfi {Lil EURO? I; ugm_3., inT

DIVISION HIGH SCHOOL IN

MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN

By
Grace Jeanette Leaek
“__.“; , we

Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan
State College of Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts

1953 x

THESIS

TABLE OF CONTFNT

CD

Chapter
I. INTRODUCTION AND QTATFUPNT OF THE PEQRLEH
II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE.
III. MiTHODS AND PROCEDURE
IV. FINDINGQ AND INTERPRFTATIONS
Buying Practices
Wardrobe Adequacy
Sensitivity to Appropriate Dress
Preferences in Color, Type and Style
V. SUMLARY AND CONCLUSIONS
BIBLIOGRAPHY
APPENDIX

Questionnaire

308 375

Table

II.
III.

IV.

VI.
VII.
VIII.

IX.

XI.
XII.

XIII.

XIV.
XV.

XVI.

XVII.

XVIII.

XIX.

XX.
XXI.

LIST OF TABLES

Age~Grade Placement of One Hunired Girls of
West Division High

Average Intelligence Quotient for Each Class

Distribution of Occupational Titles of Fathers'
Employment

Employment of Mothers
Distribution of Broken Homes
Expenditure of Earnings of Employed Girls

Girls Sharing Activities with their Families

Girls Sharing Activities with their Girl Friends

Popular Activities for Dating

Expression of Interest in Being Well Dressed
for Specific Occasions

Desire for Compliments from Individuals Listed
Garments Made at Home

Items for which Counsel about Purchase Is
Obtained .

Students Allowed Freedom of Choice for Purchase
Persons from whom Counsel on Purchase Is Sought

Items Purchased by the Girl, her Parents or the
Girl and her Parents. . . . . . . . . .

Response on Fabric Identification .

Garments Tried on Before Making a Purchase
Persons Paying for the Girls' Clothing

Methods of Payment Used for Garments Purchased

Wardrobe Adequacy .

Page

40

43

44
45
49

51

53

55
57
80

64
65

XXII.
XXIII.
XXIV.

XXV.

XXVI.

Figure

Comparative Wardrobes
Garments Worn to School
Types of Hosiery Worn .

Distribution of Girls Who Selected Acceptable
Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Preferences in Color and Type of Fabric

LIST OF FIGURES

Distribution of Intelligence Quotients

67

71

74
74

31

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The author is deeply grateful to Miss Hazel Strahan for
her unfailing interest in this survey, and for her excellent
advice and capable direction which made its completion pos—
sible. Sincere appreciation is expressed to the girls of
West Division High who volunteered to participate in the

survey and the members of the faculty who kindly assisted.

Q

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION

"'Clothes make the man!‘

This statement, though superficial when applied to an
adult, may have more meaning in regard to a child. For the
child, clothes may make growing up easier or harder, they may
become a symbol of security, an extension of self, a way of
identifying with someone, a means of real satisfaction. Clothes
may go a long way toward making the man!"1 As Mrs. Bead has
implied, the problem of clothing involves individual and group
reactions which are worthy of study. However, if these studies
are to be made, certain basic material must be obtained; there«
fore the purpose of the survey to be discussed in the following
pages was to secure practical information on clothing prefer-
ences and buying practices of one hundred teen—age girls.

The design of the investigation proposed to indicate what
factors affected their clothing choices and buying practices.
Specifically, the_objectives were to analyze the buying prac»
tices characteristic of teen—age girls; to indicate if the indi~
vidual felt her wardrobe was adequate in terms of her needs; u)

evaluate data to determine whether or not these teen-age girls

 

1 Katherine H. Read. "Clothes Help Build Personalityj' Journal
9: Home Economics, 42:348, Hay, 1950,

2

had developed a sensitivity to the appropriateness of dress
for specific occasions; and also to indicate to what extent
their wardrobe reflected their preferences in color, type and
style in clothing.

Decision to undertake this survey was made because of the
lack of studies related specifically to teenuagers' clothing I
problems and rec0gnition of the individual and group benefits
which might be derived from such a survey. Values foreseen
were improved relationships, not only between teacher and pupil
but also between parents and their daughters. For the teacher
and pupil, it was felt that increased understanding of her needs
and problems in the selection and use of :flothing would lead t)
mutual satisfaction. Additional information obtained would,
when adapted, result in improvements in the home economics
curriculum, particularly in areas of clothing'selection; budget»
ing, consumer problems, construction units, as well as increased
carry-over of her skills into the home. The findings of the
Silverman study gave impetus to this investigation. Indicative
of the adolescent girl's interest in clothes and the importance
she associates with them, Silverman found that sixty-two percent
of the grOup indicated that consciousness of their clothes
resulted in their feeling ill at ease. The social aspect of

clothing also appeared to be a potent force.2 Verification of

 

“Up-Jr

3 Sylvia S. Silverman. “Clothing and Appearance Their Psycho-
logical Implications for Teen-Age Girlsfl' (Teachers' College
Contributions to Education) No. 913. New York: Teachers
College, Columbia University.

3
this premise was found in the report of a study conducted by
Lois Helman Pearson who recommended that recognition should
be given to the effect of personality, age, socio—economic
status, intelligence and previous home economics training on
the clothing worn by girls between fourteen and eighteen
years of age.3

Making note of the fact that the teen~age girl's ward—
robe, its adequacy in terms of activity and satisfactions to
her and her parents, the investigator felt that mutual benefit
might result through a better understanding of the adolescent
girl's clothing preferences and improved buying practices on
her part. Similar thoughts were expressed by Block who noted
the frequency of mother-daughter conflicts due to decisions

4

regarding clothing and by Silverman from whom the following

quotation is taken.

Girls' differences of opinion with their mothers which
come not over questions of suitability, or unwilling-
ness of the girls to abide by their mothers' choices,
but over the mothers' criticisms of the girls‘ atten-
tion to their appearance suggest another area where the
school can be of help. The development of girls' inte-
rest in clothing and appearance, the extent of this
interest and the reasons for it comprise an area which

 

3 Lois Holman Pearson. "Teen-Agers' Preferences in Clothes."
Journal 9: Home Economics, 43:802, December, 1950.

 

4 Virginia Lee Block. "Conflicts of Adolescents with Their
MothersJ'The Journal of Abnormal and Social Psychology,
333195. — __..

 

 

1‘.

l.

4

the school can interpret to parents and thus help make
for a better understanding of girls‘ behavior.

Others to receive benefits by this survey were thought to be
the administrator-~in judging pupil behavior and in evaluating
and improving curriculums; industry~~in studying clothing
preferences of teenwagers; and sales personnelowthrough study«
ing the buying practices and preferences of the young ladies
who form an appreciable percentage of their customers.

The students cooperating in this study were volunteers
who had been or were at the time of the survey enrolled in
clothing classes at West Division High, Milwaukee, Wisconsin,
where the investigator had been an instructor for eight years.
This school of fourteen hundred students was located in a
transient neighborhood, with twenty~two percent of the enroll-
ees as shown by school records, characterized by truancy and
early drOp out. An average home in this neighborhood was cone
sidered to be rather unstable in that parental supervision was
often lacking during a large percentage of the day. This was
thought to be due to thetfact that fifty percent of the homes
were broken and also to the fact that in fifty-five percent of
the homes both parents were employed. Additional factors
observed about the students of this school and community were
that sixty percent of them had part—time employment and that
the majority of their fathers were employed as skilled and

unskilled laborers.

 

5 Silverman, 92. cit., pp. 119.

 

I.3i|r.l"lill1 ‘I
o . . I .‘l-Hr“. .yvfli

CHAPTFR II
REVIEW OF LITERATURE

All areas of knowledge are related and should be intea
grated toward common goals of social achievement. Men
the world over are not yet in agreement as to what these
goals should be. American educators, however, tend to
favor the belief that a broad synthesis of knowledge
will educate the individual for his various roles in
the community, including his role in the family group.
Each discipline has its own contribution to make toward
the individual's attainment of these goals of social
achievement. The type of American citizen we produce,
the strength of our nation, and, to a degree, the
strength of our world, depend upon the nature of the
synthesis of knowledge that we pass on through educa-
tiontp each generation of youth. Both sociology and
home economics contribute to this body of knowledge.

The above statement of Mattie Lloyd Wooten, director of
the department of sociOIOgy of Texas State College for Women,
is indicative of the fact that areas of study cannot be
divorced. Literature useful in or related to a survey of
clothing preferences and buying practices of high school girls
will logically include: (1) studies relating specifically to
the behavior of the adolescent and the effect of clothing upon
it; (2) studies investigating the clothing preferences and
sensitivity to appropriateness of costume of teen-age girls;
(3) studies analyzing the buying practices of high school
girls; (4) additional studies which make a contribution for

the use of educators.

 

6 Mattie Lloyd Wooten. "Pathways of SociolOgv and Home Economics.”
gournal 9: Home Economics, 41:339,/May, 1949.

 

6

Within the first area there are some excellent studies
relating to the socio~psycholOgica1 needs and drives of the
adolescent. Some of those found in the literature were aware»
ness of self, desire to conform, desire for esteem, social
mobility, and freedom from fear.

In the introductory statement, "Clothes make the man",
the implication was that clothes reflect the personality. "We
all know that critical choices, such as those made when one
comes to a fork in a literal or symbolic road, or when one
picks a certain piece of attire, do reflect something of the
characteristic nature of the personality making them ........
There is ample evidence that each of us reveals a definite
"style of life" which has its origin in a combination of hered—
itary predispositions and the formative influences of early
life,"7

J Hurlock studied adolescent personality to find that with

change in body size and contour, comes a new awareness of self.
This results in a new attitude in self in relation to others
and to life in general. The young adolescent becomes egocentric.
His main interest in other people is subjective in that he
focuses his attention upon his relationship to them and their

attitudes toward him.8

 

7 George W. Hartman, "Clothing: Personal Problem and Social

IssueJ' Journal 2; Home Economicg, 41:297, June, 1949.

8 Elizabeth Hurlock, Adolescent DevelOpmegt. New York: McGraw—
Hill Book Company, 150., 1949, p. 239.

 

Hurlock found another interesting concomitant to this
egocentric attitude. Adolescent interest in clothing stems
from a realization of the importance clothing plays in group
status. When dressed like the members of the group the indi«
vidual identifies himself with the group and feels he belongs
to it. This gives him a security of status that would be
impossible if his appearance differed from that of the group.9

Dearborn indicates that additional socioepsychOIOgical
effects of clothing are seen in the fact that esteem of our
fellows underlies many of our deepest human satisfactions.
Clothing is frequently used to obtain this esteem, as well as
an "important element in expedient 'success' and in the de~
velopment of our personalities."lo

It is a fundamental human trait to imitate those who are
admired or envied.ll Data from the Silverman study serves to
verify this statement. "Close conformity in the style for
daily wear was prevalent not only within the age groups, but
among the groups."12

"The desire for approval, the internal satisfaction of

feelings of poise, and the happiness and the belief in advan—

tages in vocational and social areas to be achieved from good

 

9 Ibid., p. 246.
10

 

George V. Dearborn, "The PsycholOgy of Clothing!’ Psychol—
Ogy Review Monographs, 86:40, 1919-1919.

11 J. C. Fluegel, The Psychology_g£ Clothes. London: Hogarth
Press, 1930, p. 138.

 

12 Silverman, 92. cit., p. 144

 

8
clothing and attractive appearance were found to be the factors
Operating in the motivation of clothing choices and attention
to appearance for the major portion of the group."13

Mrs. King investigated the role of clothing in the life
of the adolescent and found it to be far more important to the
teen—age girl than to any other age or sex group. The teen~
age girls in her case studies were found to use clothing as
protection from fear of ridiche, as a means of gaining social
and adult status, and for extreme personal satisfaction.14 In
a study on the effect of clothing on social adjustment of
adolescent girls, Miss Enty found that seventy—six percent
preferred to please themselves rather than their friends in
the selection of their clothes. Forty—four percent wanted
masculine approval, forty~seven percent wished to please their
girl friends while forty-seven percent desired the approval of
their boy friends.

"Clothing at one time or another, in some peOple if not
in others, protects us against fear; fear of ridicule, esti—
mation of poverty, estimation of lack of good taste, obtru~

siveness, estimation of homeliness or lack of beauty."16

 

13 Ibid, p. 116.
14 Bernice King. "A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family
Relationships in Twenty-five Selected Families." Unpublished
Master's thesis, Michigan State College, East Lansing, Mich-
igan, 1949, p. 107.

15 Jane Enty. "Effect of Clothing on the Social Adjustment of
the Adolescent Girl." Unpublished Master's thesis, Howard
University, Washington, D. 0., 1940, p. 35.

16 Flugel, 92. cit., p. 246.

Silverman concluded that girls were not as critical in the
appraisal of their own appearance as they were in their appraisal
of others. Eighty—eight percent of the group rated themselves
as average in appearance.

In a study by Cannon, Staples and Carlson, it was found
that for the pupils who received the extreme scores in social
acceptance, one trend stands out clearly and supports the quanti»
tative data. All of the most popular girls from the seventh
through the twelfth grades excel in or conform closely to the
norm for personal appearance.18 A brief statement which might
well summarize the aspects of clothing as related to this area

. - .. 9 .
was that by Miss Bayer and Alas Wybourn,1 "Each garment is a
combination of satisfactions, and he can select the combinae
tions best suited to his specific situation."

Among the studies investigating clothing preferences and
sensitivity to apprOpriateness of costume of teen—agers, is a
study by Hurlock who states that:

"Unlike the child, the adolescent is keenly aware of

the appropriateness of the garments he wears. To a

child this is immaterial. If a little girl likes a

certain dress or hat she wants to wear it for any and

every occasion regardless of whether or not it fits

the occasion. Knowing that inappropriate garments

will mark the individual as 'ignorant', the adolescent

is very careful to disregard personal feelings about
clothing. No matter how much he or she may like a

 

17 Silverman, 92. cit., p. 60.

18 Cannon, Staples and Carlson. "Personal Apperance as a Factor
in Social AcceptanceU' Journal.oi Home Economics, 44:712,
November, 1952.

19 Bayer and Wybourn. "Third Clothing and Textile Seminar."
Journal 9; Home Economics, 42:804, December, 1950.

10

certain garment, the adolescent will not wear it unless
it is "correct".2

"To be able to have clothing of the type they want in
spite of limited budgets many adolescent girls become interested
in making their own clothes."21

A practical study in which data graphically shows the
sensitivity to appropriate costume, is that of Silverman's
"A decided change in order of preference of garments for daily
wear and weekend wear was seen."22

Interesting results compiled for several surveys were
found on specific clothing preferences. Consideration of the
preferences relates to type of garment, color, style and line.
Silverman found that throughout the age range of twelve to
eighteen, sweaters and skirts were the most popular mode of
dress worn by a laroe majority of each age group; cotton
dresses were their second choice. The indications were that
there was a preferred mode of dress to which all age groups
attempted to conform.83

Helman found that the group she studied indicated in the
following order their color preferences: blue, pink; aqua,

30 Hurlock, 23. cit., p. 246.

31 Ibid, p. 247.

J

1

')
I.)

D

Silverman, gp. cit., p. 43.
2

CA

Silverman, loc. cit.

11
black, red, yellow, white, dark green, bright blue, light green
and brown. Orange and teal were not selected by any of the

"4

girls.4 Cobb also found that blue ranged first, followed by

yellow and pink.25
Interestingly enough, Miss Smith also found the color
preferences for dresses of the five hundredgirls she observed
to be in the following order: blue, red, green, yellow, purple,
brown, and grey. White was the outstanding choice for blouses
while green or blue was first choice of color for coats by
approximately one-half of the girls and red or wine by twenty~
one percent. Pastels were the favorite for sweaters.26
Preferences in types, textures and designs of fabrics were
also considered by Miss Smith. Cotton was the most popular
fabric for blouses as indicated by fifty-nine percent of the
girls, while nylon was selected by thirty-nine percent and rayon

crepe by fifteen percent. Sweater fahrics were listed in the

following order: nylon, cashmere, wool, mixture, and angora.

 

24 Lois Helman. l'The Relationship of Color and Line of Dress
to the Personality of High School Girls." Unpublished
Master's thesis, Drexell Institute of Technology, Phila-
delphia, Pennsylvania, 1948, p. 31.

25 Nellie N. Cobb, "Some Factors Influencing Clothing Satis-
factions and Dissatisfactions of High School Girls in Lee
County High Schdol, Auburn, Alabama." Unpublished Master's
thesis, Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Auburn, 1951, p. 33.

26 Alma M. Smith. "Apparel Buying Motives and Habits of High
School Girls of Des Moines, Iowa." Unpublished Master's
thesis, Drake University, Des Moines, 1950, pp. 80—83.

12

Gabardine was most pOpular for suits and soft, medium textured
fabrics for skirts.86

The girls' expressions of preferences for line showed that
for all types of garments, plain fabrics were consistently
more acceptable to the girls than plaid or printed fabric.
Casual and tailored garments were favored by all of the girls
and sixtymfour percent of the girls indicated a preference for
straight skirts, sixteen percent for pleated and fifteen percent

for flared.27

In the Helman study, the total group indicated
in descending order of preferences for style or design=~
(1) tailored dress, (2) tailored suit, (3) skirt and blouse,
(4) shorts and slacks, (5) clinging evening gown.223
In the Cobb Study, preference for line was correlated
with age and it revealed that one hundred percent of those age
fifteen preferred soft curved lines as compared to only sixty~
seven percent of those who were eighteen years old. None of
the younger girls preferred straight lines, while thirty-three
percent of the eighteen year age group indicated this prefer-
ence. The inference seems to be that as age increases the
tendency for preference of straight lines increases.v.
Attempting to find the reason for satisfaction or the

lack of satisfaction in a garment, Cobb found the chief contri~

buting factors to satisfaction as evaluated by the girls as

 

27 Helman, loc. cit.

13
follows! sixty-five percent considered becoming style; sixty~

two percent, becoming color; fifty—six percent, appropriateness;

. 8
fiftyatwo percent, comfort; and forty—six percent, fit.2

In the Watson study which was concerned only with blouses,
they rated the factors in this order: style, appropriateness,
eye appeal, fabric and fit. According to Miss Watson, cost
followed closely, but did not seem to have as much influence

as might be expected. Color ranked rather low, but this may

have been due to the high preferences for white.29

The third group of studies relates to buying practices of

adolescents. It is in this area that we find the sources of

conflict between the daughter and her parents, for as Hurlockso

"Interest in clothes extends to interest in selecting,
making and caring for them. Few boys and girls during
the adolescent years are satisfied with garments selected
for them. They want to have a voice in the selection.
Their judgment of what is correct is based on informa—
tion from fashion magazines, from displays in shop win—
dows, from movies and from radio reports of what is
being worn. How to become independent of the adult
domination is one of the most important problems with
which adolescents are faced.’ On the adolescent's part
there is resistance to adult authority and a strong
conviction that they are misunderstood and unsympa-
thetically treated by adults. Acoustomed to regarding
parents as a source of authority, adolescents often
misinterpret parents' advice as domination or bossing.
They want help but not domination."

 

25 Cobb, pp. cit., p. 46.

29 Katherine Watson. "A Study of Ready-Made Blouses." Pracggr
cal Home Economics, 31:21, March, 1953.

 

SO Hurlock, pp. 0 t., p. 247.

14
The incidence of clothing as a cause of these conflicts
has been previously mentioned and cited in the study by Rlockfi"1
Nearly all of Mrs. King's resnondents reported some frustration

33 Several

due to parental dominance in choice of clothing.
expressed a feeling of inferiority because they were not

allowed to choose the clothes they liked. Other girls had
developed feelings of inadequacy as a result of conflicts with
parents. According to Mrs. King, "The rights and privileges

in the free choice of their own clothing without parental
interference is a significant factor in parent-child relation—
ships but significantly more important for the teenwage parent
relationships."

Data on this problem of adolescent independence in shopping
was compiled in both of the studies by Cobb and Reid. Cobb
found that sixty-one percent of the girls select their clothes
with their mothers' help; thirty-two percent select their Own
clothes; while six percent have their clothes selected for
them.33 She stated, "It is significant that the middle eco-
nomic group and the middle educational group achieve the greatest
independence in selection of clothing.. ..... As age increases

there is a marked tendency for girls to select their own clothing,

 

—-w .- —" '_-—---"-—

31 Block, loc. cit.

33 King, 100. cit.

“

33 Cobb, pp. cit., p. 40.

as indicated by eightymthree percent at age eighteen."34

Smith stated that only one~seventh of the five hundred girls
had clothing chosen regularly by their mothers.35 Wolfe had

a similar report.36 Reid found that although many of the girls

did not shOp independently, ninetyethree percent usually were

present when clothes were bought for them.37

As previously mentioned, a group thought to benefit from
studies of this type are retail merchants. It was noted that
they have obtained data on the practices of the consumer, but

as a group, merchants are conscious of the lack of studies and

are keenly aware of their value. Donald F. Blankertz37 reports

Despite the accumulated knowledge of trading areas,
shopping habits and buying motives and the data that
stores have about their customers, there is much ig-
norance of retail markets. A comprehensive statement
of customer characteristics and actions related to
purchase pattern either for a market, a type of store,
or a given store does not exist. Analysis of the data
available from objective studies, however, suggests that
such knowledge has considerable value. Customers are
heterOgeneous not only in their purchase and use of
various commodities but also in their patronage of
retail stOres. Their actions and attitudes are con-
citioned by their economic and social environments and
by their acquired habits of shopping. The wide variety
among customer groups in regard to amount, character
and frequency of purchases at different stores seems to

 

34 Ibid., p. 43.
35

 

Smith, pp. cit., p. 107.

36 Helen Wolfe. "A Study of the Spending Responsibilities of a
Selected Group of Junior College Women with Particular Refer—
ence to their Clothing Purchases." Unpublished Master's
thesis, Florida.State University, Tallahassee, 1951, p. 40.

37 Doris Jean Reid. "A Study of Clothing Practices of Urban High
School SeniorsJ‘ Unpublished Master's thesis, Virginia Polya
technic Institute, Blacksburg, 1951, p. 26.

16

be related to such Objective factors as income, age

and family size. A greater knowledge of customers

and their behavior patterns shouli assist management

in determining policies and practices

Reports in the Buyer's Manual of the National Retail Dry
Good Association indicate consumers' practices of importance
to the retailer. F. W. Binzen states that a store's objective
is to supply the needs of its customers and if a store is to
obtain the patronage of customers, it is essential that the
merchant constantly study the wants, tastes and interests of
the consumer in order to be aware of the changes in demand.
Consumer demand is best interpreted through consumer satisfaCe
tion, and this will enable a store to meet demand in a number
of ways such as price, and through department coordination.
For example, a color demand in dresses must be met also in
shoes, accessories and other articles of clothing.38

Reporting a study of practices, Beem states that buyers
do not buy with their "intelligences" but are guided only by
emotion.39 Harry Singer stated that seven out of ten consumers
are habit buyers.40 The influence of price on purchase has
long been noted. O'Brien states that women buy almost entirely

41

according to price and beyond that she guesses. Thor and

Cowles found that price was of first importance in the selection

38 Eglgglp Mapppl, New York: National Retail Dry Good Associa-
tion, 1949, p. 52.

39 Margery Oliver Beem. "Examining Ourselves as Buyers."
Journal of Home Economics, 20: 740, October, 1928.

40 Harry Singer. "What Makes People Buy?" Storpp, 31: B4,
June, 1949.

41 Ruth O'Brien. "Buying for the Family." Journal _; Home
Economics, 22: 198, March, 1930.

 

 

17
of dresses followed by style, quality and personal suitability.42
In agreement with these statements is that of Nystrom, "People
come to stores because they want goods, and the strength of
their wants helps to determine the price they will pay for
them."43
Various studies investigated numerous buying practices.
Reid found that the girls tried on practically all garments
before purchasing them and that forty-seven percent of the
girls usually read fashion magazines. Sixtyeone percent of
the girls earned part or all of their spending money.37 The
girls in this study purchased most of their garments from local
stores rather than from mail order houses. Only three items
in the wardrobe ever were purchased by mail order and these
were in small quantities.44
Miss Smith, in.a study of five hundred girls, found that
fifty percent earned part or all of their clothing money.
Among the influences on choice reported by this grOup: news“
paperse—thirty-five percent of the girls; magazines-—twenty-
five percent; standards set by other girls--fifty percent; and

boy friends--thirty percent. The Des Hoines group shopped the

complete department store most consistently, and seventy—three

 

42 E. K. Thor and Mary Cowles. "Row Women Select Dresses."
Journal p: Home Economics, 25:576, August, 1933.

 

43 Paul Nystrom, Economics p: Retailipg, New York: The Ronald
Press, 1930, vol. II: p. 463.

 

 

44 Reid, loc. cit.

18
percent used cash payment while fortywone percent frequently
used charge accounts. The girls expressed desire for informa~
tion on workmanship details, color fabrics, and judgment in
spending in order that they might be more intelligent consumers.45

Miss Watson found that most students preferred to buy
their blouses in department stores. Next in popularity were
specialty shops but ranking much lower than the department
stores. Chain stores and mail order houses ranked considerably
lower. In this particular survey a few were influenced by the
advice of saleswomen, friends or mothers; by the amount of
care required for upkeep of the blouse; and type of shop in
which the blouse was purchased.46

The number of garments purchased as compared with those
constructed at home, was found to be appreciably higher. The
studies of Colvin, Cobb, Smith and Reid each showed that very
little home sewing is carried on by high school girls.

Educational implications were also noted in the li+erature.
Dr. Hartman of Columbia University states in an article

To the extent that the educative process is a genuinely

moral enterprise it must seek to produce the best pos-
sible xind of human being. Stated in the acceptable
patter of pedagogical circles, home economics educa-

tion in the field of sound clothing behavior must

ultimately contribute something to the making of supe—

rior personality or its activities will be found
fatally defective. Clothes are, therefore, "valuable"

 

45 Smith, 92. cit., p. 106, 119.

46 Watson, leg. cit.

—.

be

19

(in the larger psychological sense which embraces more
than the narrowly economic) only to the degree that
they enhance the value experiences of the persons who
wear them or who are otherwise affected by them. In
other words, the subjective worth of an article of
attire is proportionate to its contribution to some
sort of extension or differentiations or enrichment

of self.

Clothing behavior is a neglected but permanent part
of educational and social psycholOgy; it is just as
significant as feeding behavior, reading behavior,
motor behavior, symbolic behavior and the many other
behaviors which ogcupy the attention of the student
of human nature.‘1

Bayer and Wynbourn state,

Every individual regardless of income is faced with
making decisions relating to clothing purchases.
Education can help develop ability to make decisions
that are sound........ Any education designed to
improve the consumers' purchases should help him to
understand the many possizge kinds of service he

can obtain from clothing.

Pearson recommended that knowledge and guidance should

given to the girls to aid them in more becoming color and

line selection of clothing, with the greatest emphasis placed

on

49

color selection. Colvin recommended that planning of

clothing expenditures and consumer problems in the selection

clothing should be taught in high school clothing courses.SO

 

Lois Helman Pearson. "Teen-Agers' Preferences in Clothes."

Journal 9: Home Economics, 42:801, December, 1950.

 

of

47 Hartman, pp. cit., p. 296.

48 Bayer and Wybourn, 2p. cit., p. 804.
49

50

Yolanda M. Colvin. "A Study of the Clothing Practices of
One Hundred High Schoo1 Girls of DeKalb, Illinois." Unpub-
lished Master's thesis, University of Colorado, Boulder,
1943, p. 50.

20
Similarly Reid recommended that comparative facts indicate
that more vital information should be taught in Home Economics
classes on the care and repair of clothing, and a studyrof the
purchasing of read-made clothinw should be included in the first
year of Home Economics.51 Each of these recommendations were
made because their studies showed that high school girls pur—
chase a high percentage of their garments ready‘made.

In the Ccnb study, the percentage doing home sewing was
considerably higher than in the Reid study which any haVe been
die to economic or geOgraphic differences. However, Mrs. Cobb
made the following recommendations: "Further research is
needed to determine ways in which wholesome social and family
relationships may be more effective in clothing experiences,
and studies are needed dealing with values in relation to age
and economic status."52 Mr. Andrews stated that,“Cloth-
instruction needs to be well planned as to relative emphasis.
.... Teaching of clothing must change with changing economic

"53

conditions. If this goal is to be reached, surveys must

carried on to show exactly where the needs lie.

 

51 Reid, 9,9. cit., p. 52.
52 Cobb, 92. cit., p. 58.

53 Velma Phillips, Evidence 2: the Need 9: Education for
Efficient Purchasing. Teachers‘ College, Columbia Univer-
sity Contributions to Education, No. 447. New York: Bureau
of Publications, Teachers' College, Columbia University, 1931,
p. 8.

 

 

 

 

21

The Phillips study was an early survey showing the need
for education for efficient purchasing. In this study eighty—
five percent of the women wished for more education for con«
sumption.54 Silverman felt the school could serve the parents
well by interpreting to them the clothing interest and result~
ing behavior. Later she recommended, because a large majority
of the group she studied indicated a desire for an expert in
the school, that such a person could help them with their
clothing problems and concern for expressing their individual-
ity and enhancing their attractiveness. Additionally, she
suggested that such courses must be of the functional type,
not only acquainting girls with the theoretical foundation of
design and line but also realistic problems of appropriate»

ness, individuality, and suitability to age.55

 

54 Benjamin R. Andres, Economics of the Householg. New York:

The Macuillan Company, 1935, pffi43l.

 

 

55 Silverman, 2p. cit., p. 119.

CHAPTER III
MFTHODQ AND PQOCEDUPE

Twenty-five volunteers each from freshman, s0phomore,
junior and senior classes of the Sohool were used, thus give
ing a crossesection of age and grade from the entire school.
The number of clothing courses these students had taken varied
from one to three semesters. Contact was made with the girls
through an announcement in their home economics classes. The
students volunteered their participation and were called to~
gether for the purpose of explaining to them the significance
of the survey and the importance of their individual contrie
bution to the validity of the data for this study and its
interpretation.

The instruments used in this survey were that of the
questionnaire and the personal interview schedule. The
questionnaire was divided into two sections, the first part
dealing with personal data and the second part with clothing
preferences and buying practices. Part one, covering personal
data, was group administered, while the one investigating
preferences and practices was administered by personal inter—
view.

The complete questionnaire has been bound in the appendix
of the thesis and upon examination it will be found that per-

sonal data included questions on age-grade, family composition

23
and background, student and parental employment, expenditures
and earnings, home responsibilities and social participation.
The information sought in the section on clothing preferences
and buying practices included that of parental control,
awareness of clothins needs, influences on clothing choice,
shOpping pracniceSaeincluding stores patronized and method of
payment, wardrobe adequacy, apprOpriateness of style, and
other factors.

After tabulating the data obtained in these questionnaires,
both subjective and objective analyses were made to establish
the environmental background of the group, to determine the
socioueconomic level of the families of these girls and to
compile a list of significant factors which influenced their
clothing preferences and buyin3 practices as well as any addiw

tional pertinent data.

§£;l2§

Several scales were used in the survey which require
explanation. When considering parental employment, the publi—
cation of the Bureau of Employment Security of the Department

oprabor, Distribution of Occupational Titles,56 was used as

 

 

a guide in classification of fathers' occupations in ratings

of O to 9. These ratings are explained below:

 

56 Distribution 2: Occupational Titles, 1949, Volume I.
WZEhington, D. 0.: United States Government Printing
Office, pp. 1-319.

 

 

24
O—~Pr0fessional and Managerial Occupations

a. Professional-~This group includes occupations
that predominantly require a high degree of mental
activity by the worker and are concerned with the
theoretical or practical aspects of complex

fields of human endeavor. Typical professional
occupations are those of doctor, lawyer, architect,
mechanical engineer, chemist, physicist, astronomer,
and doctor.

b. Semieprofessionalw—Included in this group are
occupations concerned with the theoretical or prac-
tical aspects of fields of endeavor that require
rather extensive education or practical experience,

or a combination of such education and experience

for the proper performance of the work. ChirOpodists,
tree surgeons, draftsmen, aviators, laboratory tech~
nicians and fingerprint experts are typical semi»
professional occupations.

c. Managerial and official occupations-*This group
includes occupations that are involved primarily
with responsible policy—making, planning, super-
vising, coordinating, or guiding work-activity of
others, usually through intermediate supervisors.
Typical of these occupations are managers or presia
dents of business enterprises, superintendents of
construction projects, and purchasing and advertis~
ing agents.

loeClerical and Sales Occupations

a. Clerical and kindred occupations--This group
includes occupations concerned with the preparation,
transcribing, transferring, systematizing, or pre—
serving of written communications and records in
offices, shops, and other places.

b. Included in this group are occupations concerned
with the sale of commodities, investment, real estate
and services, and occupations that are very closely
identified with sales transactions even though they
do not involve actual participation in such trans—
actions.

2--Service Occipations

a. Domestic service occupations—-This group includes
occupations concerned with the usual functions in the
maintenance of households and their environs, the
cooking of meals, the care of children and similar
services that are performed in private homes.

25

b. Protective service occupations~+1n this group
are those specifically concerned with the protec-
tion or guarding of the country or its political
unit of buildings and other prOperty, and of indi»
viduals. Duties range from those of a watchman to
a policeman.

0. Building service workers and porters-~Workers
concerned with the cleaning of the interior and
equipment of buildings, offices, stores, and similar
places, and with moving or carrying equipment,
baggages and other articles.

SasAgricultural, Fishery, Forestry and (inured
Occupations

a. The occupations included in this group are those
that are directly associated with the process of
growing and harvesting vegetables, fruits, grains,
and other farm crops; in the raising of poultry,
livestock, and other animals and fowls for consumpm
tion, for their prOducts, for pets, or exhibition;
and in various phases of horticultural activities.

4-»Skilled Occupations

a. This group includes craft and manual occupations
that require predominantly a thorough and compre-
hensive knowledge of processes involved in the work,
the exercise of considerably independent judgment,
usually a high degree of manual dexterity, and, in
some instances, extensive responsibility for valu-
able product or equipment.

5—«Skilled Occupations

a. Workers in the manufacture of transportation and
other heavy equipment as well as occupations in none
manufacturing activities are included in this group.

ea-Semi-skilled Occupations

a. Occupations that are characterized by one, or a
combination of parts, of the following requirements
are included: the exercise of manipulative ability
of a high order, but limited to a fairly well-defined

\ work routine; major reliance, not so much upon the

. worker's judgment or dexterity, but upon vigilance
and alertness, in situations in whichlapses in per-
formance would cause extensive damage to product or
equipment.

26
7««Semiaskilled Occupations
These workers are the assistants to the workers in
the group above (i.e., baker's helper, flour sifter,
etc. as compared to the baker, pie—maker, etc. in
the former list)

Bqunskilled Occupations

This group includes occupations that involve the
performance of simple duties that may be learned
within a short period of time and that require the
exercise of little or no independent judgment.
Characteristically, such occupations do not require
previous experience in the specific occupations in
question.

9-=Unskilled OCCupations

Assistants to the workers in group eight.

When considering the results of questions thirtyaone tc
thirty-four, it was necessary to devise a scale which wOuld
discriminate between individuals according to their selection
of appropriate fabrics for the garments shown in the illustra-
tions for these questions. The questions were given to twenty-
two home economics graduate students and the majority agreement
of their preferences was regarded as the basis for the first,
second and third choices. The following were judged as the most
acceptable fabrics for the specific design of garment and use,
if indicated. The students' preferences were rated as three,

two, one, or zero in accordance with the number of correct

choices they listed.

Acceptable Fabrics for Specific Garment

 

 

Garment Fabric Choice ”_
lst 2nd 3rd
Blouse 1 F A B
2 B F C
3 D E F
Skirt 1 E R D
2 A F R
3 B D A
School dress 1 C F G
2 B C A
3 F C A
Dressy dress 1 D G C
2 E H D
3 H E D

27

CHAPTER IV
FINDINGS AND INTERPQETATIONS

The personal data questionnaire of the study provided
information on age, grade classification, birthplace, length
of time the girls had lived in Milwaukee or other urban centers
or in rural area, and family composition including ordinal
position of the girls. Birthplace of each parent, language
spoken at home, and parental employment were also considered
in order to establish as nearly as possible home environment
and family background of the girls. Following this, data on
the girls' activities was obtained. Specific questions were
asked about her activities and responsibilities within the
home, her social activies with the family members, girl friend
and boy friend, her paid employment and expenditure of her
'money. With this information as a background, the investi-
gator felt it would be possible to more easily evaluate the
data obtained in the questionnaire on clothing preferences and
_buying practices used during the interview.

As stated previously, there were twentyvfive volunteers
each from the fr shman, sOphomore, junior and senior classes.
The age range and grade placement is found in Table 1. Ages
ranged from fourteen to eighteen years, and the average age of

the group was sixteen.

TARLE I “

AGE-GRADE PLACEMENT OF ONE HUNDFED
GIRLS OF WEST DIVISION HIGH

 

 

Grade
Age
Freshw Soph- Junior Senior ITotal
man, omore
18 yr.a18 yr. ll mo. 2 7 9
17 yr.wl7 yr. ll mo. 1 8 18 27
16 yr.-16 yr. ll mo. 5 15 20
15 yr.-15 yr. 11 mo. 8 l7 25
14 yr.~l4 yr. ll mo. l1_ “g __ __. 19
Totals 25 25 25 25 100

 

The intelligence quotients of this group obtained from
the school records based on the California Mental Maturity
Test ranged from seventyweight to one hundred and tventy-four.

The average intelligence quotient by classes is shown in Table II.
TABLE II

AVERAGE INTELLIGENCE QUOTIENT FOR EACH CLASS

 

Class Range Average
Freshman 85-110 101.5
Sophomore 78~124 97.2
Junior 89-124 98.8

Senior 80-110 98.08

3;”)

Distribution of the intelligence quotients is shown in
Figure I. Although no attempt was made to statistically corre»
late the data obtained to the intelligence quotients, this
table did aid in giving a clear picture of the type of indie
viduals participating. The following is a classification of
intelligence quotients which had been in wide use: below
seventy, feeble mindedness; seventy to eighty, borderline
deficiency; eighty to ninety, dullness; ninety to one hundred
and ten, normal or average intelligence; one hundred and ten
to one hundred and twenty, superior; and one hdndred twenty
to one hundred and forty, very sdperior intelligence.57 Seventyu
eight percent of the girls were normal or of average intelli-
gence, while two percent were very superior and eight percent
of superior intelligence. Twelve percent were classified as
dull, and three of this group might have been classified as of
borderline deficiency.

Upon analysis of the parental background of the subjects,
it was found that seventeen percent of the mothers and nineteen
percent of the fathers were foreign born. The distribution of
parents of European birth was similar for each of the four
groups in the study. It was indicated that a foreign language
was used in thirty-eight percent of the homes. However, upon
further investigation, it was found that this was not always
used, but frequently used between parents or upon the occasion

of a visit of relatives or friends of similar background.

 

— w

57 C. M. Louttit, Clinical Psychology. New York: Harper and
Brothers, 1947, p. 97.

 

 

FIGURE I

DISTRIBUTION OF INTELLIGENCE QUOTIFNTS

Number of cases

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

\\\

 

 

70 95 I00 /05' //o * us

Intelligence Quotients

Very superior
Superior

Average
Dull
Borderline deficiency

 

'10

H4

31

32

While attempting to formulate a concept of the socio—
economic status of the families of these girls, the investi~
gator found that seventy-one percent of the fathers were
employed in skilled or semiaskilled occupations. These data
on occupations as shown in Table III served to verify the
assumption that the majority of the girls came from middle or
lower middle class families and that, judged by occupation,
the average parent probably had only a high school education
or perhaps less. As was previously explained in pages 24 to
26 the ratings, classifications, and titles were those of the

United States Department of Labor.

TABLE III

DISTRIBUTION OF OCCUPATIONAL TITLES
0F FATHERS' EMPLOYUENT

 

 

“- __. ____ _

Rating Occupation Classification Percent of Total
ETOUP

 

‘—
..

Professional

Managerial

Clerical and sales
Service

Agricultural

Skilled occupations
Skilled occupations
Semiuskilled occupations
Semivskilled occupations
Unskilled

Unskilled

Deceased, disabled, etc.

UN
mwmamwmrsmmpm

(DCD‘ImU'hPCflNI-‘OO
H

1

33

It seems significant that such a high percentage of the
mothers were employed outside the home. Fortyuone percent were
employed full time and eight percent had part—time employment.

Table IV shows the distribution of the mothers employed and

not employed according to student classification.

TABLE IV

EHPLOYUFNT OF MOTHERS

" —--> .‘C “.‘v" a“.

 

 

 

 

Class Full time Part time Total Mothers not
employment employment gmplgygd employed_
0. J0 NO. 7c NO. ,c- NO. %
Freshman ll 44 4 16 15 80 10 4O
Sophomore 9 36 l 4 10 4O 15 80
Junior 9 36 2 8 11 44 14 56
Senior lg. 48 __l 4 .1; 52 Ag 48
Total 41 8 49 51

 

The fact that such a high percentage of mothers worked
indicated a need for supplementing the family income. This
supplementary income may have provided money for basic needs
as well as unsatisfied desires. It is likewise significant
that approximately fifty percent of the homes from which these
girls came had no parental supervision for at least a part of
the day.

Contributing to the picture of instability in their home

life were the figures indicated in Table V showing that in

34
thirty~one percent of the homes only one of her own parents
was living in the home. Of this number, thirty—one were
divorced or separated. In some instances some had remarried.
This figure may be compared with that of the national average
for the year 1949 which was 397,000 or a rate of two and seven
tenths per thousand population. In Wisconsin there were 4,813
divorces or one and four tenths per thousand. Using this
figure as a basis for comparison, average rate would have been
seventy-two hundredths among the five hundred and nineteen
peOple comprising the total for families in this study.
However, the report of thirty—one broken homes is highly sig~
nificant for it constitutes a rate of six as contrasted to
lthe_Wisconsin average of one and four tenths. This was a
shockingly high rate when recent trends as indicated by the
National Office of Vital Statistics are considered:

Starting with 1943, changes in divorce rates in both
directions were more abrupt than in previous years. In
1946, the crude divorce rate increased almost one-third,
reaching a peak of four and three tenths divorces per
thousand population and by 1949 it had drOpped almost
tw0*fifths to a rate of tgg and seven tenths per thousand
population for that year.
Obviously many of these homes lacked supervision during
a large percentage of the day and in many there was only one
parent. We have observed that many of the girls appeared to
be highly independent, physically and in manner of dress

appeared mature. We likewise have observed them to be lacking

the social finesse of maturity.

58 Vital Statistics 3: the Unitgd States, 1949, Part I, Place
of Oscurrence, Federal Security Agency. Washington: United
States Government Printing Office, 1951, p. 63.

 

35
TABLE V

DISTRIBUTION OF BROKEN HOMFS

_— _w _—

 

 

Class Students from broken QEEQQ
’No. Percent
Freshman 14 56
Sephomore 5 20
Junior 5 30
Senior __Z §§
Total average 31 31

Sixtyathree percent of these girls were born in Milwaukee
and seventy—five percent had lived during the major portion of
their lives in Milwaukee. Seventeen percent had spent most of
their lives in towns under 50,000 population. Only eight per“
cent had lived the greater portion of their lives in villages
and rural areas. Thus the majority of the girls had spent
their formative years in Milwaukee, a metropolitan center of

9 This fact obviously contributed to their social

637,392.5
maturity, behavior, and participation as well as practices in
shopping.

The composition of the average family from which thes

girls came was five and the average number of children in the

family was three and two tenths. The ordinal position of the

 

59 1959 Census of POpulation—~Number g; Inhabitants. washings
ton: Bureau of Census, I: 49-ZO.

 

36
girls within the family was as follows: thirty—five were the
oldest in the family; twenty-six had both older and younger
brothers and sisters; twenty-five were the youngest; while
fourteen were the only child.

The activities of the girls in their homes, in employment
situations, as well as their social participation were investi-
gated. In the homs, the duties for which the students assumed
the largest amount of responsibility were those of house clean~
ing, 75 percent; cleaning own room, 61 percent; washing dishes,
69 percent; ironing, 46 percent; spotting and pressing clothes,
34 percent; serving meals, 27 percent; and laundering personal
clothing, 19 percent. Twenty—three percent reported that they
had never assumed the responsibility of laundering their own
clothing. There was no appreciable difference among the groups
of girls in the assumption of duties within the home aside from
baby sitting. Eleven each of the freshmen and sophomores
reported being frequently or alvays required to baby sit in
contrast to four of the juniors and two of the seniors. A
large percentage of the girls did not appear to be required to
accept heavy home duties which required a large amount of their
time.

Of the girls that had been employed, fortv-four percent
worked after school, fifty-nine percent were employed on Satur—
days,and forty percent were employed during the summer.
Eighty-two percent indicated that they had been employed and

only eighteen percent of the girls had never worked outside

37
the home. Thirty—two percent of the total group had been
employed as baby‘sitters. Of these, sixteen were freshmen,
eleven sephomores, three juniors, and two were seniors. A
higher percentage of the older girls were employed in sales and
clerical work. In sales, we find twelve of the juniors and
eleven of the seniors as compared to two and one of freshmen
and sophomores, respectively. Six of the seniors indicated
having had clerical employment. The types of work which the
girls indicated did not require a special type of dress other
than tailored clothing.

The average earnings for the girls were as follows:
under five dollars per week, fourteen percent of the girls;
five to ten dollars, twentyetwo percent; ten to fifteen dollars,
twenty-one percent; and over fifteen dollars, earned by
seventeen percent of the girls. The average earnings on an
hourly basis was seventy-five cents. The remaining ten per-
cent of the girls reported occasional work at approximately
fifty cents per hour.

Table VI shows the expenditure of these earnings as
reported by the students.

Clothing was the item of major importance with seventy»
five percent of the girls reporting expenditures on this item;
sixty-two percent Spent their earnings for entertainment; and
approximately thirty-three percent said they spent their money
for gifts, personal items, school expense and savings. Although

these figures give no indication of proportionate amounts spent,

38
it is significant that seventymfive percent of the girls indi«
cated clothing. Contributing to the picture of the economic
situation in the family is the fact that as the girls earn more
and are perhaps better able, a larger percentage contributed a:
the family support. Three SOphomores, four juniors and seven
seniors reported contributing some of their earnings to the
support of the family. It was interesting that in those cases
where money was contributed for family sapport, the mothers

were also employed outside the home.

TABLE VI

EXPENDITURE OF EARNINGS OF EMPLOYFD GIRLS

 

Item Number of Students Total
Freshman Sophomore Junior Senior

Clothing 18 18 19 23 75
Entertainment 18 13 13 18 62
Family support 3 4 7 14
Gifts 9 8 7 ll 35
Other personal 6 5 ll 8 33
Savings 8 5 10 10 33
School expense 4 7 15 13 39

39

Inquiry into the types of social participation of the
girls was design~u to give better understanding of her needs
for various types of clothing. First, the girls' social parti~
cipation was analyred in terms of her activities in church,
clubs and sports. It was found that the majority of the girls
attended church regularly. Seventy-six percent or nineteen of
the freshmen, sixty percent or fifteen of the SOphOmores,
seventy~two percent or eighteen of the juniors and eighty-four
percent or twenty-one of the seniors reported regular church
attendance. Two of the SOphomores and one of the seniors
reported that they never attended church. This comparatively
high percentage of church attendance may have been due to the
fact that fiilwaukee has a large number of Catholic and Lutheran
churches and it is in the early adolescent years that the girls
usually become affiliated as members.

Data on club membership show fewer girls belonging to club
organizations than were shown to be regular participants in
church activities. Of those reporting club membership, eighteen
were freshmen, seven were sephomores, ninejuniors, and ten were
seniors. Fifty—six of the one hundred girls never had held a
club membership, and only seven of the freshmen, two sophomores,
one junior, and four seniors had been an officer in the organi~
zations. All offices listed were minor. These figures show
that of the fifty of the one hundred girls interviewed
belonged to a club or participated in club activities within
their group, there were apparently no outstanding leaders.

Organizations were in each case of membership related either

40
to a church or social center. The social center prOgram under
the Department of Recreation of Milwaukee is open to all youths
of the city, therefore these respondents were not without
Opportunity to avail themselves of group participation.

The data obtained on sports activities were comparatively
insignificant but indicated most of the activities of this
character were under the girls' athletic prOgram in the school

The remaining social activities were those shared with the
family, with their girl friends and with their boy friends.
Table VII indicates the activities the girls reported as the

ones shared with their families.

TABLE VII

ACTIVITIES GIPLS SHAPED wITH THEIR FAVILIFQ

 

 

 

 

Activity Freshman Sophomore Junior Senior Total
Television 20 22 23 24 89
Movies 8 9 8 5 30
Visiting

relatives 8 7 5 5 25
Visiting 6 8 10 24
Shopping 7 5 4 1 17

Dining out 2 2 l 5

 

The outstanding activity shared with the family was

watching television. Others reportedly enjoyed were movies,
shOpping and visiting rel tives. These figures show one

definite advantage of television in that it brings the family
together as a unit. Church attendance with the family occurred
in a very small percentage of the cases. Two each of the fresh~
men and s0phomore girls and one each of the junior and senior
girls attende' church with their families. Significant but
also easily understandable are the figures on shopping with

the family. As the social maturity of the girl occurred,
personal independence in shopping increased. Seven of the
freshmen girls reported shopping with their families while

four of the juniors and only one of the seniors indicated such
a practice.

Table VIII shows the activities shared by the girls with
their girl friends.

In activities shared with girl friends, television gave
place to movies which ranked as a first choice of the fifty“
two girls reporting this activity. Parties, dancing, football
and basketball games, shopping and visiting were also pop21ar
activities to be enjoyed.

Interest in dating was frequently indicated, with eighteen
each of the freshmen and SOphomores, twenty-one of the juniors
and twenty-three of the seniors reporting some dating. Those
dating regularly and frequently were fourteen of the freshmen,

fifteen sophomores, fifteen juniors, and twenty seniors. Those

42
who indicated their dating to be steady were five freshmen,

nine scphomores, ten juniors and twelve seniors.

TAPLE VIII

ACTIVITIES GIRLS SHARED WITH GIRL FRIFND8

 

 

 

Activity Freshman 90phomore Junior Senior Total

”TI-67’7“ No . 72 m WET—"“2 "—7473"
Movies 13 52 2O 8O 25 100 24 96 82
School games 7 28 10 4O 12 48 7 28 36
Dancing 9 36 6 24 8 32 8 32 31
Talking 6 24 9 36 5 2O 8 24 28
Parties 10 4O 3 12 7 28 2 8 22
Television 7 28 5 2O 8 20 2 8 19
Shopping 6 24 2 8 2 8 4 18 14
Dining 3 12 l 4 l 4 5

 

The activities reported pOpular for dating are shown in
Table IX.

The interests of these young people are undoubtedly quite
typical of adolescents. However, several things are evident.
The general type of activity does not include a very high
attendance at the more cultural type of entertainment such as
concerts or civic prOgrats. This is borne out by the fact
that only six indicated attending special programs. Also

evident, as indicated by the small number that watch television

with their friends, is that fact that

their frienis in their homes.

43

relatively few entertain

 

 

 

 

 

 

TABLE IX
POPULAR ACTIVITIES FOR DATING
Activity Eggghmanl §g§§9mgre Junior Senior Total
N o. ‘0 I; o. ‘72“ 73'5““; 7'5"“; “-735:-

Movies 13 52 15 80 21 84 24 98 73
Dancing IO 4U 12 48 15 80 15 80 52
Riding in

auto 8 24 8 24 8 32 7 28 27
School games 4 18 5 2O 5 2O 3 12 17
Television 4 18 l 4 3 l2 8 24 14
Special

prOgrams l 4 2 8 l 4 2 8 8
Visiting 3 l2 1 4 l 4 1 4 8
Shopping 2 8 1 4 1 4 4

 

Although the activities of these yOung peOple may have

been limited because of financial circumstances,

considering

the entire picture of social participation as presented by the

data, it does not appear that this group was characterized by

the desire for social mobility.

They did not seek membership

in clubs or seemingly desire places of leadership within the

organizations of which they were members, and their'activities

did not seemingly take them outside their own school group.

44
The girls did not manifest special interest in sports, hobbies
or cultural prOgrams which would aid in acquiring new friends
and/or social groups. Their sphere of activities were not of
the type which would realire special, excessive or elaborate
clothing.

Questions twentyetwo to twentyufive attempted to further
investigate not only their interest in social participation
but also to find out the type and extent of the girls' associe
ated importance of clothes with their participation. The
chief activities for which the girls were interested in being

well dressed are shown in Table X.

TABLE X

EXPRFSQION OF INTFPFST IN BFING WELL DQFQSED
FOP SPECIFIC OCCASIONS

 

Occasion Freshmen Sophomores Juniors Seniors Total
Church 9 IO 5 4 28
Dating and

dancing 13 15 18 18 82
School 7 4 9 4 24
Shopping 1 3 1 8

 

These figures indicate the egocentric attitude of the
teen-agar and again show their center of social life to be

dancing, dating, church and school. Also evident is the fact

45
that there are comparatively few occasions within or centered
around the family group which created a desire for the teen:
ager to wear their scucalled best clothes. The chief reasons
given for being "well dressed" for those occasions classified
above were "making a good impression", and "conformdtv to dress
of peers", or possibly conformity to dress of others in the
group.

Table XI shows the results of questions twenty—three by
listing the individuals from whom the girls would most like

to receive a compliment on their clothes.

TABLE XI

DESIRE FOR COHPLIHENT FROM IVDIVIDUALR LISTED

 

 

 

Individual Freshmen Sophomores Juniors Seniors
Mother 21 84 20 80 19 78 18 72
Father 10 4O 38 32 11 44 12 48
Girl friend 15 80 18 84 15 80 18 72
Boy friend 15 80 18 84 15 8O 18 72
Sister 2 8 7 28 4 18 5 20
Brother 3 12 4 18 4 18 5 20
Family friend 4 16 5 20 8 24 5 20
Teacher 2 8 3 12 1 4 3 12
Aunt l 4

Doesn't like
compliments 1 4

 

48

Compliments most desired by the girls were those given
by the girls' mother, girl friend, boy friend and father.
Approval by other siblings and teachers are comparatively
unimportant to the girl. Confidence in the mothers? judgment
was consistently manifested. These figures may be encouraging
when compared with those of Block's study on motherwdaughter
conflicts. They also may be an indication of desire on the
part of the girl for closer relationships with her mother. It
is doubtful that these figures indicate that problems arising
in clothes selection and differences of Opinion between mother
and daughters do not exist.

In question twenty-four, "do you seek the opinion of
others on what to wear on special occasions?", it was found the
mother ranked first when the girls wished counsel in clothing
selection for specific occasions. This appliei to seven out
of eleven occasions reported. The mother's Opinion was sought
particularly for those occasions less frequently attended by
the girls.

Second in importance to them was the girl friend's advice.
Her suggestions were sought particwlerly for club socials,
football games, parties and prems but the mother's guidance
was almost equally acceptable to that of the girl friends in
the case of proms. The answers to this question also showed
that the girls rarely attend club socials, conventions and

teas.

47
Question twenty-five furnished additional information
showing that this group wad: quite self confident and approved

of their own ppear nce. Seventy-nine of the group approved

p1

of their own ppearance. This applied to twenty of the fresh-

p1

men, fifteen

O

f the sophOmores, twenty-three of the juniors
and twenty-one of the seniors. An appreciable number seemed
to use good grooming synonymously with good appearance, namely,
nine of the freshmen; seven sephomores; ten juniors and fourteen
seniors. This group apparently considered grooming more im~
portant than clothes. Six of the freshmen, two sOphomores,
five juniors and three seniors exoressed confidence in their
own judgment or taste in clothing. One freshman, two s0pho—
mores, four juniors and one senior considered herself well
dressed because she had been complimented on her clothing,
whereas one sephomore, two juniors and three of the seniors
said they dressed as well as they could.

Those who did not approve of their own appearance gave
the following reasons: body build, size and posture. These
were given by one each of freshmen and sophomores and two
juniors. Four freshmen, eight sophomores, and three seniors

felt they did not have the proper type of clothes.

Buying Practices
Significance of the objective for analysis of the buying
practices characteristic of teen-age girls was realized during

the interview. The second section of the questionnaire was

48
used at this time. The girls were asked if all of their
garments were purchased ready—to~wear. Only twentynsix reported
this to be true in their particular case. However, when asked
to indicate what garments were made at home, it was found, as
shown in Table XII, that only a small percentage had been
purchased readyemade. The greatest number of garments made
either at home or in school were blouses and skirts. These
figures are indicative of the fact that only a relatively
small amount of sewing done in the homes, as well as the fact
that the "carry over" of any sewing skills learned in school
is low. Because such a large percentage of garments were
purchased ready~made, a study of buying practices is extremely
important.

Prior to surveying their actual buying practices, the
girl's clothing needs, her awareness of need and the persons
from whom she sought advice regarding her individual needs
were investigated. All of the freshmen, twenty—two or eighty;
eight percent of the sephomores, twenty-one or eightwaour
percent of the juniors, and nineteen or seventy-six percent
of the seniors indicated that they consulted with someone
about their clothing needs. Twenty-four freshmen, eighteen
sophomores, nineteen juniors and seventeen seniors reported
they consult their mothers. In seeking counsel, the girl
friend was the next most frequently sought. Five freshmen,
four SOphomores, three juniors and four seniors stated they

consulted their girl friends. While some students listed

TABLE XII

GARUFNTS MADE AT HOME

m-. ‘“H‘—-— -'--—.v c.-. 6v“ ,. -n‘-m-.--~.—-n-~-___-

 

 

Garment Number
Essie.

All 3

Part 6

None 91
digits.

All 3

Part 9

None 88

--~m-.

 

 

 

All 6

Part 44

None 88
Date dresses

'Kll 6

Part 9

None 85
Elpuses

All 4

Part 48

None 48
Skirts

All 7

Part 56

None 36
Lingerie

All 4

Part 9

None 87
Active sports

K11 9

Part 13

None 78

 

 

-—_-—— m-U- ~.-- -

50

more than one person, the mother ranked appreciably higher
than anyone else. Of the entire one hundred girls answering
the questionnaire, only eight indicated they consulted
their sister or father, while two listed their bov friend and
one mentioned her aunt as the person with whom they wished
to discuss their needs.

Table XIII indicates the items which the girls felt

e.

(1)

they should consult someone abOut before making a purcha
From these figures it is evident that the majority of the
seniors and juniors had more freedom of choice than the
freshmen and sephomore girls. However, the sephomore girls
were apparently not required to consult anyone for as many
different items as the freshmen girls were required to for
major purchases such as dresses, suits and coats. Thirteen
sophomores as compared to twenty-one juniors reported they
had to consult someone. This wOuld indicate that age does
not necessarily reveal greater independence on the part of
the girl in purchasing her clothing.

The results of question three, "Are you allowed to buy
what you like?" gave additional evidence of freedom of choice.
These data may be seen in Table XIV. Those who were always
or frequently allowed to purchase what they wanted were
twenty-one of the freshmen, twenty—four sephomores, twenty—

four juniors and twenty-five seniors.

TARLE

XIII

ITEMS FOR WHICH COUNGFL ABOUT

 

51

PURCHASE IS OBTAINED

 

 

__—

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Item Freshmen. 80101131119268. analogs. seniors:
' N o. ,1; r: o. 7/. N o )9. w 0
Suite and .
dresses 64 16 28 7 4O 10 32
Coats 44 ll 24 6 44 ll 20
Skirts 4O 10 28 7
Shoes 28 7 l2 3 12 3 4
Blouses l6 4 l2 3
Sweaters 12 3 8 2
Formals 4 l
Fabrics 4 1 4 1
All items 8 2 20 5
None "my money" 8 2 20 5 20
TABLE XIV
STUDENTQ ALLOWED FREEDOM OF CHOICE FOR PURCHASE
Frequency “smell §99£292£2§ Junioxs fiesiprs
% No. y: No. % No. % No.
Always 44 11 52 13 64 16 76 19
Frequently 4O 10 44 ll 32 8 24 6
Seldom 12 3 l 1 4 1
Never 4 l

 

Only six of the entire group indicated that they were
seldom or never allowed to purchase what they liked. The follow»
ing reasons were given for permitting them to purchase what
they liked: "I'm the one who has to wear it"; "I pay for them
myself"; "I won't wear what I don't 1iKe"; "Mother thinks I
have gooa taste“. The remaining reasons were varied but prac»
tically all of the girls indicated that they considered their
mothers' judgment or wishes before buying. The six girls who
said that they were seldom or never allowed freedom in making
their own choice gave the following reasons: "I select gar-
ments which are too exnensive"; "Mother and I don't agree";

"I have poor taste"; "I buy on the spur of the moment".

In terms of percent these funumg can be quite misleading
for a notable percentage difference really indicates only one
or two girls. Twentyefive is too small a number on which to
base any conclusions of the character of teenwage practices
in buying. It is indicative that these or similar question—
haires should be given to a larger group in order to obtain
additional data on which to base conclusions.

Counsel at the time of making the actual purchase was
also considered. Through the use of question four, "Those
opinion do you seek most frequently in regard to clothing
selection and purchase?", it was found that again they con-
sidered the mother's opinion the most valuable. These data

are shown in Table XV.

53
TABLE XV

PERSONS FROM WHOM COUNSEL ON PURCHASE IS SOUGHT

 

 

“ a“

 

Person Freshmen Sophomgres Juniors Seniors
WEST"? To 7" If; ' m NET—"75‘
Nether 20 8O 20 80 17 68 17 68
Girl friend 4 16 2 8 6 24 4 16
Sister 3 l2 1 4 5 20 5 20
Boy friend 1 4 1 4
Father 3 12

 

The mother's Opinion on a specific clothing purchase
was sought three to ten times as frequently as the opinion
of the girl friend and/or sister. The opinion of the father
and boy friend was mentioned by only five girls in the entire
group. The Opinion of her boy friend was important to only
the upper classman.

In question five, the girls were asked to indicate by
whom specific items of their wardrobe were purchased. The
possibilities included purchase by herself without guidance,
by her parents, or jointly by herself and her parent. The
data as presented in Table XVI indicates that less freedom
and shopping independence are allowed in the case of garments
which constitute major expenditures. Even in these cases,

juniors and seniors indicated more independence than the

54
freshmen or sOphomores. In terms of the frequency of items
purchased by the girl for herself were blouses, sweaters,
hosiery and slips. Seventy—eight percent or more of the
total number of girls made these purchases independently.
Items purchased by those who shopped with their parents, in
the order of relative importance were: winter coat, suits,
dresses and shoes. In ten percent of the responses concerning
purchase of hosiery and slips the girls saii they had no
element of choice, which was undoubtedly due to the fact that
they considered these minor items.

Other influences on choice were investigated in question
six, "From the following list select five influences you con-
sider moSt important in your choice of clothing". Clothing
ads in newspapers and store window displays ranked first in
determining what they chose. Parental influence was second
in importance, and the clothing worn by classmates and sug-
gestions from her best girl friend were third in frequency
of mention. Ads in magazines followed style shows as factors
influencing their choice. Similarly, the girls listed as
sources of information on current fashions: magazines,
newspapers, other girls at school, store window displays,
and lastely, television pregrams.

Influences in the actual purchasing situation were indie
cated in question eleven. The girls were asked to list three
important factors. Those considered most important for the

purchase of a skirt were style, price, and color. The same

TABLE XVI

ITEMS PURCHARED RY THF GIRL, HEW PARENTS
OR THE GIRL AND HF? PARENTS

 

 

“- '---—'——- C“. --—_ ~--c—.———

 

Item Freshmen SOphomores Juniors Seniors
No. No. No. No.

 

 

 

Winter coat

 

 

 

 

Yourself 3 5 8 11
Parents 4 2 8
TOgether 18 l8 17 12
sun.
Yourself 1 4 13 10
Parents 4 3 2
Together 17 16 IO 15
Blouse
Yourself 18 21 24 23
Parents 1
Together 6 4 l 2
gagater
Yourself 16 20 24 23
Parents 2
Together 7 5 l 2
§girt
Yourself 18 l? 28 20
Parents 1
Together 7 8 2 4
Qress
Yourself 8 10 12 12
Parents 1 l 2 8
Together 13 11
8112
Yourself 17 84
Parents 2 1
Together 6
3.9.9.1. 8.: it
Yourself 18 23
Parents 2 2
Together 5
§hoes
Yourself 14 31
Parents
Together 11 4

 

 

 

56
Characteristics were considered important in the purchase of
blouses. In items of outer apparel they had more independence
in purchasing blouses and skirts than for any other item.
When asked to list information which should be included

on labels for slips, the girls listed the following!

Item Total Girls
Fabric 74
Size 58
Laundering instructions 52
Ironing instructions 39
Sanforized shrunk 38
Price 23
Manufacturer 21
Durability 18
Colorfast ll

Style or cut of garment 7

Fiber content in percent 6

Brand name 6

Other items 5

The majority of girls mentioned at least four of the
above items as the essential information for purchasing a slip.
The information they suggested conforms to the criteria of a

60 Namely, they were

good label mentioned by Dr. Reid.
"information to assist consumers in selection, use and care

of products; facts which cannot readily be determined in the
store by inspection or by other simple means at the time of
purchase; and facts essential to the consumer." The girls'
responses were indicative of the fact that they were conscious
of essential information which should be known before purchas-

ing. This reflects the influence of their previous training

in clothing and family living courses.

 

60 Margaret G. Reid, Consumers and the Market. New York:
Crofts and 00., 1947, p. 443-444.

 

S7

A specific test of the girls' ability to identify a fabric
as to fiber content was made in question thirty. Five fabrics
were sh0wn and three answer? listed from which the girls were
to select the correct one. (See question thirty in appendix.)
The fabrics shown were: fabric ae~f0rty percent wool and
sixty percent dacron; fabric B~~ray0n gabardine; fabric c_,
one hundred percent wool flannel; fabric D-wdenim; and fabric
F~~velveteen. The correct answers were: Aww2; B~~3; C~«1;
D»~3; and E~—3. In only two cases, A and C, did threeefourths
of the group select the correct answer. Forty-four percent
of the girls knew that denim (D) was cotton. The rayon
gabardine (B) and velveteen (E) were particularly confusing
to the group. When looking at the velveteen, many of the
girls turned to the investigator and said, "But it's velvet".
This is indicative of the fact that many individuals confuse
fiber and fabric and have no discriminating sense of the

differentiation of the two terms.

TABLE XVII

RESPONSE ON FABRIC IDENTIFICATION

 

w _———.—- __.—_-

Fabric and Fiber Freshmen Sepho- Junior Senior Total
more

._‘_ F--~

 

A. Wool and dacron
1. 100% Wool
2. W001 and
synthetic blend 20 19
s. 100% W001 5 e

19 78
6 22

Lu
0" O

TABLE XVII (continued)

 

-

Fabric and Fiber

 

O

D.

Rayonigabardine
l. 100p Wool
2. WOOI and
cotton blend
3. 100% rayon

W001 flannel

l. 100i Wool

2. W001 and rayon
blend

3. 100% rayon

Cotton denim
l. 100% wool
2. 50b wool and
50% cotton
3. 100% cotton

Velveteen

1. Cotton and silk
2. Rayon and cotton
5. All cotton

58

 

 

-—.—-—

54
44

35
57

Freshmen Sopho— Junior Senior Total
more

l
18 21 15 19
6 4 10 6
17 22 22 24
8 3 3 1

2
16 18 16 4
7 7 9 21
10 10 10 5
5 15 9 18
6 2

The type of stores which the girls patronized and the

frequency of purchase are indicated below.

Type of store

Wholesal§_
Always
Frequently
Seldom
Never

 

Department stores
Always
Frequently
Seldom
Never

Number of girls

11
88

43
57
O

8

59

Downtowp_sp§;galty;shops

Always 13
Frequently 54
- Seldom 29
Never . 2

Neighborhgou spssisliLshsia

 

Always 3
Frequently 22-
Seldom 62
Never 13

Mail 0rder_companie§

Always 1
Frequently 5
Seldom 21
Never 73

These data indicate that the majority of the girls
shepped in downtown department stores and specialty sheps.
Only twenty—five or one-fourth of the total group always or
frequently shopped in their neighborhood stores. Twelve indie
cate that they bought from wholesale organizations. As Mile
waukee is an important center for the manufacture of teen-age
girls' dresses, it is very possible that some of the buying
was done by their mothers who were employed in one of the gar—
ment factores. ’

Ordering garments by mail was of insignificant importance
to these girls, as only one reported she always purchased by
mail. Five indicated they frequently ordered by mail, twenty—
one occasionally, but seventy-three indicated they never
ordered by mail. Shepping by telephone was not commonly

practiced either. Only ten in the entire group indicated

that they ordered some items by telephone. Items which were

60
ordered by telephone were: skirts, blouses, sweaters, under~
garments, and overshoes.

Fifty—eight 0f the girls indicated that they shepped
several stores before a final selection; thirtywnine fre—
quently shepped in the same manner, while only three said
that they seldom shopped in more than one store before making
a purchase. It was also found that seventy-nine to ninety-
five percent of the girls tried on most of the garments before
purchasing. Two exceptions were blouses and sweaters. Only
twenty-five percent of the girls indicated they tried on these
two items.

TABLE XVIII
GARMENTS TRIED ON EFFORF MAKING A PURCHASE

 

 

Item Always Frequently Seldom Never
No. No. No. No.

Coat 96 2 2
Suit 95 3 2
Dress, cotton 77 12 10 1
Dress, date 75 4
Blouse 27 34 23 16
Sweater 21 28 7 18
Wool skirt 85 13 2 l

 

Another question dealing with shopping practices asked

if they were interested in looking through a rack of skirts

61
which had been marked down. Forty ind'cated they always did;
forty-three said they frequently did; fifteen seldom; and
two were never interested in this type of merchandise.
Three replied that they would always take advantage of skirts
reduced in price; thirtyathree said they frequently made pure
chases of this. Fifty-two said they seldom and twelve re“
ported they never pirchased at marked dewn prices.

The other questions concerned the frequency with which
they looked over other items of merchandise which had been
marked down for clearance. Thirteen said they were always
interested, and an additional fifty—two indicated that they
frequently were interested. Of the remainder, twentymeight
said they seldom were interested and seven were never inter»
ested in looking at items on a clearance table.

Considering the shopping practices surveyed so far, it
appeared that these girls were quite mature in their shepping
practices. The uajority'seemed to understand the essential
information to be considered before making a decision or
purchase. The majority tried on garments before buying and
at least considered apparel items which had been reduced in
price. A larger percentage of the girls were more interested
in skirts which had been reduced in price than in clearance
tables of miscellaneous items.

However, regardless of the girls' knowledge of economical

practices in shopping, ninety percent indicated that their

63
ready made garments required alteration. Twenty~five
reported the alteration was made in the store; four stated
that a dressmaker was hired; and the remainder said that the
alteration was made either by their mothers or themselves.
The fact that such a high percentage of the girls found altera»

1

tions necessary may be an indication of a lacs of standard-
ization in sizing teen-ager garments. The results also have
implications for giving instruction on alteration procedures
and techniques in readyuto~wear as well as an attempt to
improve buying practices in the apparel items.

Table XIX gives the data obtained from question fourteen

"Who pays for your clothing?".

TABLE XIX

PERSONS PAYING FOR THE GIRLS' CLOTHING

 

'7‘.

Person Freshmen Sophomores Juniors Seniors Total

 

 

No. % No. % No. % No. % No.

Parent

All 11 44 6 24 8 8 3 12 22

Part 14 56 19 76 21 84 17 68 71

None 2 8 5 20 7
Self

All 2 8 5 BO 7

Part 14 56 17 68 81 84 15 80 67

None 11 44 8 32 2 8 5 20 26
Gift

All

Part 14 56 15 60 15 60 12 48 56

None

 

83

Twenty~two percent of the parents paid for all of their
daughter's clothing. Of these, seventy—seven percent were
parents of freshmen and sophomore girls. Two juniors and
five shiors paid for all of their own clothing, while none
of the freshmen or sephomores did. Of the one hundred girls,
seven paid for their entire wardrobe and sixty~seven paid for
a part of it. These figures show a relationship to the data
on student employment and expenditure of their earnings.

That data indicated that almost two-thirds of the girls
contributed a substantial amount toward the purchase of
their own clothing.

The data also indicated that the majority paid cash for
minor items such as lingerie, hose, and blouses. Ten per-
cent said they frequently used their parents' charge accounts
or had items put in layaway. Foar percent always used a
charge aCCOunt. In the Case of major purchases such as coats,
suits and dresses, charge, layaway and installment buying
were used two to three times as frequently as in purchase of
minor items. Forty paid cash for major items whereas eighty“
four paid cash for minor items. Only five girls reported
frequent use of installment buying and sixteen occasionally
used it for major items. A larger percentage reporting this
type of buying would have implied a need for instruction in
relative advantages and disadvantages in the use of different

types of payment.

TARLE XX

METHODS OF PAYMENT USED FOP GARMENTS PURCHASED

64

 

 

__ Type of Garment

 

 

 

Payment Minor Major
No. No.

9331.1.

Always 84 40

Frequently 16 43

Seldom 9

Never 8
Charge

Always 4 5

Frequently 10 32

Seldom 23 13

Never 83 SO
Layaway

Always 7

Frequently 10 34

Seldom 24 24

Never 66 35
Installment buying

Always

Frequently 1 5

Seldom 9 16

Never 90 79

 

6S
Wardrobe Adequacy
A second objective of this survey was to try to deter-
mine if the individual girl felt her wardrobe was adequate in
terms of her needs. The following data was obtained from the
girls' responses to the questions on the adequacy of their

wardrobes for specific occasions.

TABLE XXI

WARDFORE ADEQUACY

 

 

 

 

Occasion Freshmen Sophomores Juniors Seniors Total
No. No. No. No. No.
39.; 8.212.991.
Adequate 25 18 23 25 91
Inadequate 7 2 9
{or informal wear
Adequate 23 17 23 22 88
Inadequate 2 8 2 3 12
For formal wear
Adequate 9 ll 10 12 42
Inadequate 15 14 15 13 58

 

— —--"O ‘ “fig-I‘m

Ninety—one percent considered their wardrobes adequate
for school. Eighty~eight considered them adequate for informal
wear, but only forty-two for formal occasions. These figures,
which indicated a surprisingly large number who felt that their

Wardrobes were adequate, may be partially explained by the

6

I3)

fact that eightywtvo of the girls worked and seventyefive of
them spent at least a part of their earnings on clothing.
Fortyothree girls earned from five to fifteen dollars a week
and seventeen of them earned over fifteen dollars a week.
This data may indicate a self—satisfied attitude on the part
of the students, which may be due to their limited social
experience, to their family background, and also to the fact
that there was little eviderce of social mobility in the
family.

In response to questions which asked how they felt their
wardrobes compared with those of their best friend and with
the majority of the girls attending West Division High, it
was found that sixty percent of them mouestly stated that their
clothing was comparable to that of their best girl friend as
well as that of the majority of other girls in school. One«
fourth of the juniors and one-half of the seniors thought
their clothing was somewhat or very much better than that of
their best friend. This again may be due to the fact that a
rather high percentage of the girls chose and selected their
own clothes. Considering the data in the following, the aver“
age for the four factors number, oost, style and workmanship
indicated the girls appeared to be secure within their own
group and there probably was little jealousy among the girls
in respect to clothes. These figures as well as previous data
again aid in concluding these girls a homogeneous group with

similar backgrounds, needs, and desires.

67
TARLE XXII

COMPARATIVE WARDROBFS

 

 

. -.-—- -.

With very best friend With majority of girls
Rate __.--- .ll- -l, ---- .. ..._1Q.§9hQQl. _.__
Fr. So. Jr. s}. Tot” Fr. 85. Jr. 8r. 'Total

“w" _Hv_ _— .-

 

 

 

Very much

better 1 2 2 4 9 l l l 2 5
Somewhat

better 4 l 4 10 19 4 5 4 9 22
Same as 15 l? 15 10 58 17 13 18 13 61
Somewhat

less 4 4 2 1 ll 2 5 2 l 10
Not nearly

so well as 1 1 l 3 1 l 2

 

 

‘--._-—- -"m

More complete analysis of the data revealed that each
group of students showed some desire for an increase in their
clothing allowance. Between sixty and seventy-five percent
of the girls expressed a desire for somewhat more money for
Clothing.

Factors also thought to be related to wardrobe adequacy
concerned those garments infrequently worn and apparel items
which had been handed down. Sixty~eight of the one hundred
girls reported a total of one hundred and thirty-four garments
as never or infrequently worn. This averaged approximately
two garments for each of the sixty-eight girls. Among the

reasons they gave for never or infrequently wearing the

 

68
garments were: "out of style", reported bv twenty—eight;
"objectionable color" by fourteen; "poor fit" by twentyetwo;
"never wear dresses" by six; "uncomfortable" by six; "dislike
the fabric" by four; and "difficult to care for" by three.
The members from the four classes were quite similar in their
responses to this question.

Fifteen freshmen, nine SOphomores, eleven juniors and
seven seniors, or a total of fortyetwo girls, reported having
a total of seventy-three garments which had previously be~
longed to someone else. This was an average of approximately
one and one-half garments for each of the forty-two girls.
The girls reported that they did not like thirteen of these
garments. Among the reasons given for not liking these parti—
cular garments were: "not suitable for school", "have one
just like it","don't like other people's things", as well
as remarks concerning fit and color. The reasons given for
liking specific handed down garments were: "it belonged to
my aunt (or older sister)", "it was very expensive", "I don't
have any like it", "it is unusual", "it is made well", and
“it fits very well". Although almost one—half of the girls
have garments which had previously belonged to someone else,
the number of garments per girl was so small that they could

not be considered of major significance in terms of adequacy.

(3»
(0

Sensitivity to Appropriate Dress

Another object of this study was also to determine
whether or not these teen—age girls had developed a sensiw
tivity in respect to appropriateness of dress for specific
occasions. In question twentyesix the girls were asked to
check the kinds of garments they usually wore to school and
these which they wore on weekends. Depending upon the
response to this question, the girls were also asked to
give reasons for their preferences. The girls' preferences

are shown in the following table.

TABLE XXIII

GARMFVTQ WORN TO SCHOOL AND FOR WEFKEND

Garment Freshmen Sophomore Junior Senior Total

 

 

__.-I-“ ‘— _—

 

EQI school

 

 

Blouses and skirt 24 24 25 25 98
Dresses, wool 1 1 1 3
Dresses, silk, etc.
Dresses, cotton 5 9 6 12 35
Suits 1 4 6 ll
Egr_weekend

Blouses, sweaters

and skirts 11 8 7 S 31
Dresses, wool 10 l4 13 19 56
Dresses, silk, etc. 14 13 16 16 59
Dresses, cotton 4 10 4 9 27

Suits 16 16 21 18 71

_*

 

7O

Fifty—four girls said they chose blouses or sweaters and

skirts for school because these items were worn by the major“

ity of the girls in school. Twenty—four suggested that these

garments were more practical and more easily cared for, while

twenty~one said they "suit the occasion". Fifteen gave comm

fort as their chief reason, nine said "because the garments

are casual". Only one senior indicated that she was influenced

by other girls, as compared to an average of fifteen girls for

each of the other groups. The reasons given most frequently

for their choice of suits and dresses for weekend wear were

"more dressy", and "edits the occasion".
Appropriate outer apparel was considered for the same

Occasions. Tailored coats were most pepular for both school

zind.weekend wear. Jackets were an important item in the ward~

Iwobe for school wear and were used by approximately twoathirds

aware of the freshmen and sephomores than by juniors and

Berliors. It was apparent that fewer girls were wearing jackets

truin in previous years. The leather and cloth jackets were

ari improvement over the khaki type. Also outstanding was the

OtMBBrvation that with maturity comes a change in choice from

'thEB jacket to the coat. The conspicuous absence of fur coats

in ‘their wardrobes is in keeping with the economic level of

t he group.
The tvpes of hosiery worn to school and on weekends is

reported in Table XXIV.

71

 

 

 

 

 

 

Type Freshmen Sophomores Junior Seniors Total
For school
Anklets 21 22 14 8 65
Nylons ll 12 17 21 64
:or weekends
Anklets 7 8 7 3 d5
Nylons 23 33 25 25 95

 

~--

Although sOme girls reported wearing both types of
IIOsiery for each occasion, it is interesting to note that a
}High percentage of the freshmen and sophomores wore anklets
tC) school while only a small percentage of seniors did. The
faxzt that twenty-four or ninety-six percent of the seniors
rellorted wearing nylons to school as contrasted to eleven,
OI' forty-four percent of the freshmen may be again attributed
tO ‘their maturity and to the fact that many more of the
Serliors worked after school in the business area of the city.
SeV’eral remarked, "We would not be seen downtown in ankle s"
It ins obvious that the girls prefer nylons for dress oceasions.
Saddle and the casual type shoe were worn to school by

a11_ <>f the girls, and the majority had "heels" for dress

OCOEissions. Comfort was listed by all of the girls as the most

72

essential factor to be considered when selecting shoes. The

late occasions for

H

girls were also asked to swggest apprOp
which seven different types of shoes listed in question
twenty-nine might be worn. The girls' choices indicated
that they poss seed a sensitivity to apprOpriateness of
shoes for specific occasions.

In order to more successfully evaluate the girls'
:sensitivity in appropriate line and suitability of fabric

ific garment, questions thirty—one to thirtyafour

O

for a spe

U)

cwere used. Designs of blouses, skirts, school dresses a.
we]J.as those for dress occasions were shown. From the
the girls were to give their first,

The

accompanying fabrics,
Séucond, and third choice of fabric for each garment.
evalluation of these choices was explained in the section

On methods and procedure.

Before reporting on the results of the choices, a general
Suxnmary should be given. The fabrics used were selected as
representative types and the girls were asked not to consider
CGlor or, if so, to visualize the garment in a color of their
ChOice. The favorite blouse of the group was number two,
arna_ the first choice of fabric for blouse one was fabric(fl;
for blouse two, fabric (B); for blouse three, fabric(D). Skirt
“llurber two was most popular among the girls. They chose
fa'Lbric (D) for skirt one, fabric C3)for skirt two. and fabricml
f<31? skirt three as their first preference. Dress number one

twils their favorite for school. For school dresses the girls'

73

first choice in fabrics were: for dress number one, fabric
(Ck for dress two, fabric(Bk and for dress three, fabric(fi.
The girls said they liked number one of the "dress_" dresses

(of) (a) and (F)

{.3

best, and for these garments they chose fabrics

’

for dresses one, two and three, respectively. These choices
indicate that the girls preferred the simple tailored gar-
ments and avoided the Obviously "dressy".

When the girls' choices were compared with those con»
siuiered as acceptable by the opinion of twenty college graduate

studdents on which the scale was based, it was found that
(Hie-fifth of the high school girls selected the most suit-

alile fabric for each type garment. One—half rated two-

tfiirds of the garments correctly, and one—"ourth of the
Sizflls selected an acceptable fabric for only one-third of
the garments. Only five percent of the girls failed to
Chibose acceptable fabrics for any of the garment designs.
TaJole XXV shows that twice as many senior girls as those of
Otller classes chose the most suitable fabrics for all of the
éfiiIVnents. The data also revealed the same ratio of seniors
t" linderclassmen were discriminating in their selection of

Suitable fabrics for the designs of the dresses. This is an

inClication of maturity and experience in buying. The major—
ity of the girls were most successful in selecting accept—

a‘3].e fabrics for all of the blouse and skirt designs.

 

E..-
w“ l.‘ ,

74
TABL? XXV

DISTRIBUTION OF GIRL? WHO SFLFCTED ACCEPTARLF FABRICS

 

_ _ “’——'_'-—‘c w‘ __.—-— n...

 

 

Class All 2/3 of 1/3 of None
garments garments garments
Freshman 4 12 8 l
Sophomore 4 l3 6 2
Junior 4 13 7 1
Senior 7 ll 6 l

 

 

Preferences in Color, Type and Style
The fourth objective of the survey was to indicate to
Wkuat extent the girls' wardrobes reflect their preferences
in <3olor, type and style in clothing. The survey of color
angi fabric design in the girls' apparel items showed the

mOEBt popular colors and fabric designs to be:

TABLE XXVI
PREFERENCES IN COLOQ AND IN TYPE OF FABRIC

FOR SPECIFIC GARMENTS

 

 

\
Garment Color Fabric
\
Winter coat gray plain 80
blue plaid 13
red tweed 7
Spring coat blue plain 69
pink plaid 13
green tweed 3

tan

 

TABLE XXVI (continued)

75

 

 

 

Garment Color Fabric

Blouse white plain 90
blue plaid 4
pink small figure 2
yellow
green

Sweater blue plain 96
white plaid 1
yellow small figure 1
red bold print 1

Skirts gray plain 57
brown plaid 34
navy small figure 9
black

Dresses blue plain 81
red plaid 13
gray small figure 6
yellow

Shoes black
brown
blue
white

Blue was the favorite color of the girls for a large
IDercentage of the garments in their wardrobess. This too
héis been the preference of girls in other studies. According
t<> Mr. Birren,an authority on history of color, "The order
(Df' preferenCe in childhooa is red, blue, green and violet.
TJChNgver, with maturity, a greater liking for hues of shorter
wElve 1ength~~blue, red, green, violet, orange and yellow-~
‘1E3velops".61 As an example of this, one girl reported that

3116 did not like a particular suit because it was too bright

(”l-Faber Birren, Color Psychology and Color Therapy. New York:
McCraw Hill Book Company, Inc., 1953, p. 176.

 

78

and "she could be seen a mile away in it". The colors worn
by the girls were quite practical for city life, for school,
and were suitable for the winter season in which the study
was made.

During the interview, the girls were asked if they
had a basic color in their wardrobes and if so, what. Those
having a basic color were twelve freshmen, sixteen s0phcmores,
twenty-four juniors, and twenty-one seniors. Of these seventy-
three girls, forty~five reported blue as their basic color.
Sixty—one of the girls indicated that the items of their ward—
robes were tailored, and the majority said that their choice
of garment for a date depended upon the occasion but the
majority preferred tailored or casual type costumes for a
date.

From the above data it is quite evident that the girls'
lDreferences of color, type and style in clothing are reflected
in their wardrobes. When these figures are compared with
tile results of questions twenty-six, twenty-seven, and thirty~
Orie to thirty-four, consistency in choice of color, line and

tYpe may be seen.

CHAPTER V
SUWJIARY

Purpose

The survey herein described was undertaken to investi~
gate the factors which affect the clothing preferences and
buying practices of one hundred girls of West Division High
in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

The investigational procedure consisted of a question—
naire followed by an interview with twentyufive girls each
from the freshman, s0phomore, junior and senior classes who
volunteered to participate. The questionnaire was used as
a means of establishing their ethnic background, relative
socio-economic level of the family, employment status of
the parents and the participants as well as the girls'
social participation. In the interview, questions were
specifically related to the girls' clothing in the various
aspects of individual preferences, sensitivity in selection
and her purchasing practices. All of these girls had been

enrolled in one or more clothing courses.

Findings and Interpretations
In order to achieve the purpose of the survey, the
investigation was directed into four areas which it was
thought would show causations and their resultant relation-

ships as well as other pertinent information on buying

78
practices. Interpretation of the findings, however, must
be made in the light of the fact that this particular survey
was made with girls from middle to lower middle class fami—
lies who were characterized by limited social participation,
economic insecurity and apparent lack of desire for social
mobility.

Seventy_one percent of the fathers were employed as
skilled and unskilled laborers, and forty—nine percent of
the mothers were employed full or part time outside of the
home. This latter fact along with the data revealing thirty-
one homes broken by divorce or separation validated the
assumption that many of the homes were unstable and that
fifty percent of the homes were unsupervised for at least
part of the day.

As reported by the girls, church attendance and member-
ship in church organizations were their primary social acti—
vities. Their remaining outside social interests were limited
to membership in clubs directed by social centers. Activity
in these groups indicated a lack of leadership qualities.
Social activities shared with family members, girl friends
or boy friends showed a complete lack of interest in the
aesthetic or cultural programs. Television was the only
activity frequently shared with the family. None of the
activities of the girls required either special types nor

excessive amounts of clothing.

 

 

 

79

Buying Practices

Analysis of buying practices showed that eighty~eight of
the one hundred girls purchased the majority of their apparel
items as ready—to~wear. The girls' choices in clothing were
influenced most by clothing ads in newspapers and store window
displays, secondly by their parents, and thirdly by classmates.
Factors of significant influence on the girls' selections and
a

buying practices, her independence in shopping, as well as

types of stores and method and types of payment were likewise
included in this investigation.

Nineteen of the seniors as compared to eleven freshmen
vvere always allowed independence in selecting garments. Six
iJidicated that they seldom or never were allOwed to purchase
wluat they liked. In making decisions, the majority of the
gixrls considered their mothers' advice and wishes as important.
7116 girls' shopping independence varied inversely with the
pixice of the garments. Although these girls showed more than
adrerage independence in shOpping, they wanted and SOight their
nurthers' counsel. As in Other similar studies of adolescent
girlds, there is a contradictory behavior in their wanting both
PaITnital approval and independence.

Their responses indicated ability to distinguish essen-
tial information on clothing labels, but they were unable to
diff(Brentiate fiber and fabric names. A majority considered

39' a . . . . . .
‘Jltcible deSign, price and color as essentials of a satis-

fact Ory purchase.

80

The downtown department stores were shopped more fre«
quently than other types of stores. Eighty-five to ninetv~
five percent of the girls tried on major apparel items before
purchase and about one-half of the girls were interested in
items which had been reduced in price.

mightyutwo of the one hundred girls had been employed.
Of these, seven paid for their entire wardrobe and sixtyvseven
paid for a part of it. Only twenty—two of the parents paid
for all of their daughters' clothing. Charge and layaway

*Nere used in preference to cash payment for major items of

zapparel.

Adequacy
The girls' socLalacmvhdes were found to be tasic to their
seilection practices and the satisfaction they received from
tlie items of apparel. Their social participation was found
tc: be a limiting factor in terms of what garments they wanted
armd whether or not they considered their wardrobes adequate.
The girls considered their wardrobes adequate in terms of their
BCHBial needs and also felt their apparel compared very favor~
ablfif with that of their associates. Although the girls wished
for Eidditional clothing, data showed them to be a homOgenous
group withlcomparable economic and social limitations.

grOL1Dsocial mobility was not evident.
Sensitivity
There was evidence of increased sensitivity as to the

as . . .
ppl‘opriateness of dress for various occaSions as the girls'

81

social and work experiences changed. As an example, coats

replaced sports jackets, and hosiery replaced anklets. TWice

eas many seniors as freshmen shoved ability in choosing accept-

eable fabrics for a specific garment design.

Preferences

Preferences for color, type and design in clothing were

similar among the four groups. Blue was the color univera

sally pleasing to them. Seventyethree girls indicated they
Idsed a basic color in their wardrobe. Tailored designs and

plain rather than printed or plaid fabrics were chosen by

theImQOrity.

CONCLUSI.NS

This survey has implications of value to several dife
ferent groups of peOple, namely, teachers, parents, and pro~

ducers and retailers of teen—age girls' clothing.

Implications for Teachers
Evaluation of the girls' background is important as a
basis on which to determine areas of study, as well as empha~
sis within the areas included in the curriculum.

This survey has served as a basis of evaluating the

the investigator a-keener appreciation of the ethnic back~
ground of the group as well as a greater desire for enrich~
ing the students' knowledge and improving their aesthetic
appreciation.

A need has been shown for serving the girls individually
and improving their standards but not at the cost of creating
dissatisfaction.

The survey has reaffirmed the importance of flexibility
in a clothing prOgram which is to meet the needs of the group
of students. A rigidly prescribed pregram could scarcely
permit the flexibility which this survey, as typical of one
high school, has shown necessary to meet the real needs of

the students.

83

The data showed more transfer of learning as exempli~
fied in the sirls' changed practices in the area of grooming
and selection than in fundamental textile information and in
home construction of garments.

Analysis of the data on buying practices sugaests the
need for the inclusion in the home economics curriculum of.
more instruction and evaluation of buying habits, consumer
information, more specific fiber and fabric identification,
éUld specific uses and care. It also suggests the importance
of‘ information for the students on evaluation of limitations
iri alteration and alteration techniques.

Carry-over of clothing construction skills learned in
sczhool into the home would be an excellent way for the girls
1;0 reduce clothing costs. However, according to present prac~
tiAce, it appears the emphasis in instruction should be placed
on. practices in purchase of ready-to—wear rather than con»
Struction.

The clothing instructor could very profitably direct her
effifort in aiding the girls in more discriminating selection
in- style and design of clothing, enriching their appreciation
0f the value of color and increasing their skills in the use
Of color in the wardrobe.

This survey has given the investigator an increased
Ufhierstanding of the stidents whom she serves and has offered

enCCMiragement for the use of this type of investigation with

sttuients in the future.

84
The responses of this survey show significant conformity

to the findings of previous studies of clothing practices.

Implications for Parents
Because the girls indicated that they consulted their
znothers in regard to clothing needs and would like to receive
compliments from their mothers more than anyone else, it is
evident that many mother—daughter controversies could be
eliuunated. Clothing choices and freedom in selection and
rhirchase of their own clothing is but one media by which

Idetter understanding and relationship can be established.

 

Aipproval of their peers was also reflected in their responses

t<3 all aspects of the study.

Implications for Producer and Retailer
For the manufacturer of teenwage garments it is sug~
g€38ted that improvement in the sizing of teen—age garments is
neeeded and that the designers likewise improve the type and
dfiesign of apparel for these girls. The retailer should r8005~
nize the importance of this age group as customers whose pur-
Clfiases are significant in amount and as a group which justi-

fies more consideration than is commonly accorded them.

Recommendations for Further Study
An informal and less extensive survey by the clothing
.temicher would undoubtedly result in improved understanding
of ‘teeneasers and serve as a means of better serving her

StudBnts.

 

85
Recommendation is also made for the more extensive use
of this type of survey which would contribute to a much wider
and more fundamental understanding of the similarities and
differences in teenuage grins in different geographical
areas as well as differences in rural, village and urban

adolescent groups.

 

B I BLIOGRA PHY

/~\

 

87

A. Rooks
Andrews, Benjamin H. Economic 3s 2: 1__}_ ousahgld. New York:
The Mac Jillan Colpany, 93;S 626 pp.
Birren, Paber, Color Psycholo3y and Col or Therapy. New York:

 

M-nfi-‘ “a-

McGraw— Hill Book Company, Inc. , 19.50. 284 pp.

Flugel, J. C., The Psycholosy of Clothes. London: Hogarth
Press, 1930. 257 pp.

 

 

Hurlock, Eilizabeth, Adolescent Develonment. Nev York:
McGraWwHill Book Company, rt¢.,1949. see pp.

 

Louttit, C. M. Clinical psyc holozy. New York: Harper and

a..."

Brothers, “1947. 695 pp

---: compiler, Buy_:ns' Manual. Nev York:
Mtional Retail Dry Goods Association, 1949.
419 pp.

 

Reid, Margaret G., Consumers and the Market. New York:

1‘

Crofts and Company, 1947. 617 pp.

 

B. Periodical Articles

Bayor, Stephanie and Wybourn, Marjory, "Third Clothing Seminar,"
Journal pf Home Economics, 42:803e804, December,
1950.

 

Beem, Margery Oliver, "Examining Ourselves as Buyers,"
Journal 2: Home Economics, 20:740, October, 1928.

 

Blankertz, Donald F. "What Do You Know About Your Customer,"
Journal of Retailip3, 27:28a35, Spring, 1950.

Block, Virginia Lee, "Conflicts of Adolescents with Their
Mothers," The Journal of Abnormal and Social Psy—
chology, 33:193-—206, 1937.

 

 

Cannon, Kenneth, Staples, Ruth and Carlson, Irene, "Personal
Appearance as a Factor in Social Acceptance,"
Journal 2: Home Economics, 44:710w713, November,
1952.

 

Dearborn, George V., "The PsychOIOgy of Clothing," Psychou
logical Review MonOgraphs, Vol. 26, No. 1, pp. 1~72.

b8

Hartman, Geor5e W. "Clothinu: Personal Problems and Social
Issue," gournal of Home Econom cs, 41:295~298,
June, 19 +19.

 

O'Brien, Butt "Buyinmyg for the Family," Journ n_} _j_;gj§
Fconomic3, ‘ 2197— 200, March, 1930.

 

 

Pearson, Lois H., "Teen- -Agers' Preference; in Clothes,"
Journal of More Econorn cs, 42:831»809, December,

1993T“"'_* _““~

 

Read, Katherine H., "Clothes Help Build Personality," JOurnal
2; Home Economics, 421é49—350, May, 1950.

 

Singer, Harry, "What Makes People Buy?", Storeg, 31:l7~55,
June, 1949.

Thor, E- K. and Cowles, Lary, "How Women Select Dresses,"
Journal of Home Econoznic: 3, 85:573-576, August, 1933.

 

Watson, Katherine, "A Study of Beadwaade Blouses," Egaggical
Hone Economics, 31:81, 46, March, 1953.

 

Wooten, Mattie Lloyd, "Pathways of Sociology and Home
Economics," Journal 93 Moms Economics, 41:239-340,
May, 1949.

 

C. Parts of Series

Phillips, Velma, Evidence 0: the Need oi Education for Sif-
ficient Pfir chasin5. ”Teachers Collese, Columbia
University Contributions to Education, lo. 447.
New York: .Bureau of Publications, Teachers'
College, Columbia University, 1931. 109 pp.

 

 

Silverman, Sylvia S., Clothin5_and Appearance Their Psycho—
logical Implications for Teen-AgefiCirls. Teachers
College, Columbia University Contributions to
Education, No. 912. New York: Bureau of Publica~
tions, Teachers' College, Columbia University,
1945. 140 pp.

 

D. Bulletins and Reports

Bureau of Census, 1950 Census of Population--Number of
Inhabitants. Washington, D. C. United States

--- --—_‘8-

:31
Federal Security Agency, Vital .ii?1§E£2% g: the United §1§1§1,
1919. Bart I. p age {'Dccwrre cg. «aanl fiiton,
D. 0.: United State ove nment Printing 011100,
1951. 710 pp.

 

 

Bureau of Employment Security, Distri‘ition of Oneinational
9

9 . _ ...1
Titles, 1949. Vol.1. Wa~nington D. C.: United
mg 0” Ge

tates Government Printi ifi 747 pp
E. Unpublished Materials
Goob, Nellie U. "Some factors Influencing Clothing Satis»

factions and Dissatisfactions of High School dirls
in Lee County High School, Auburn, Alabama."
Unpublished Master‘s thesis, Alabama Polytechnic
Institute, Auburn, 1931. 90 pp.

Colvin, Yolanda M. "A Study of the Clothing Practices of
One Hundred High School Girls of DeKalb, Illinois."
Unpublished Master's thesis, University of Colo—
rado, Boulder, 1948. 62 pp.

linty, Jane. "The Effect of Clothing on the Social Adjustment

of the Adolescent Girl." Unpublished Master's
thesis, Howard University, Vashington, D. C., 1950,
46 pp.

Fielman, Lois. "The Relationship of Color and Line of Dress
to the Personality of High School Girls." Unpubu
lished Master's thesis, Drexel Institute of Tech-
nolOgy, Philadelphia, 1948.

BCing, Bernice. "A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family
Relationships in Twentwaive Selected Families."
Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State Collere,
hast Lansing, 1949. 632 pp.

H€211, Doris J. "A Study of Clothing Practices of Urban
High School Seniors." Unpublished Master's thesis,
Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Blacksburg, 1951.
59 pp.

Salisth, Alma h. "Apparel Buying Actives and Habits of High
School Girls of Des Moines, Iowa." Unpublished
Master's thesis, Drake University, Des Moines,
1950. 132 pp.

WCDIerg Helen. "A Study of the Spending Responsibilities of a
Selected Group of Junior College Women with Parti-
cular Reference to their Clothing Purchases."
Unpublished Master's thesis, Florida State Uni—
verity, Tallahassee, l9Sl.

APPENDI X

QUESTIONNAIRE AND PERSONAL INTERVIEW SCHEDULE

7.

92
PERSONAL DATA

cons NUMBER

w

Grade classification

Are you or have you previously taken clothing in
high school?‘Yes(__) No(__) If'yes, how long?
Age___years months. Date of birth *7

Blace of birth‘fi' _fi -
How long have you lived in this city?
In what other urban or rural areas have you lived?

Name of community Length of time Population

4._l _.4_

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A“ .k A .A‘ __.
a i

What is the total number in your family?

 

What is the total number living in your
household?

 

With whom do you live? £arents(__), Mbther(._),
Father(__), Step-mother(__), step-father(__)
Number of sisters older than you gggages
Number of sisters younger than you ages
NUmber of brothers older than you .. ‘ ages
NUmber of brothers younger than.you ages
Others (show relationship, if any)

 

 

9.

10.

11.

12.-

13 .
1h.

93
How many sisters and brothers do you have who are
not living at home?
Number of sisters older than you .
NUmber of sisters younger than you .
Number of brothers older than you;__mw ”__.
Number of brothers younger than you,
Give the name of your father's occupation

Describe as carefully as possible the kind of work

your father does,__

4.;

Does he own his own business? Yes(__) No(__)
Does he have people working for him?‘Yes(__) No(__)
If yes, give the number wfis

Is yOur mother employed outside the home?

YeS‘(__) N0(____)

If yes, full time? (__) part time? (__)

Birthplace of father
Birthplace of mother

Languages spoken at home

 

Have you been employed within the last year?
Yes(___) No(__) -

If yes, after school?(__), Saturdays? (__), last
summer? (__)

Average earnings per hour per week

What kind of work did you do?*

.. 9‘
15. According to amount spent, list in order five ways

in which your earnings were used.

1. 2. 3.

 

 

 

hf - s.
16. What are your home responsibilities?

 

Always Frequently Seldom. Never
Baby sitting ( ) (
Cleaning house (
Cleaning own room. (
Family laundry (
Meal preparation
Shopping (
Cooking (
Serving (
Cleaning up- (
Caring for your own clothing
Laundering ‘ (__) (_'_)
Ironing. ' (;_)
Spot and press 'g__)
Take to cleaners ( )

Others duties

 

 

 

17. Do you attend church or Sunday school?

Regularly (__) Frequently(__) Seldom(__) Never(__)

95
18. In what sports do you participate?

Regularly Frequently Seldom
() ()

 

 

(__)
(__) (__) (__)
(__) (__) (__>
(__) (__) (__)

 

19. Give the names of clubs and sororities of which you
are a member.

1. . 2. 3. 1_

Do you attend meetings regularly?(‘_) frequently?(__)
seldom? (__)
Are you or have you been an officer? Yos(__) No(__)

If yes, what was your official title?

 

What social events were sponsored by each during the
last year?

Events Did you attend?
Yes (__) No(

 

)
Yes ( ) No( )
)N0()

)
)

 

 

 

; Yes L__ ___
l, 1 Yes (__) No(__
Yes (__) No(__

 

v w

20. Do you date?
Regularly (__) Frequently (__) Seldom(__) Never(___)
Is it steady? Yes(__) No(__)

21.

What are the ways
When you are:

With your family

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wi

22. For what occasions

23.

in being well dressed?

Why?

96

you most frequently spend time

With girl friends Out on a date

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

are you particularly interested

 

k

Check the three people from whom you would most like

to receive a compliment on your clothes.

Mother . (__)
Father (__)
Sister (__)
Brother (__)
Family friend ( )

' Girl friend ( )
Boy friend ( )
Teacher

0thers(show relationship,
if any)

97

2h. Do you seek the opinion of others on what to wear on

25.

special occasions?

Occasion Frequently Seldom

Club social
function

Church
Convention
Dinner
Funeral
Football game
Party

Prom

Tea

Vacation

Wedding

As a rule, do you approve of your

Yes (__) No
Why?

(_ )
( _)
(_ )
( __)
(____ )
( _)
(_ )
(_ )
(_ )
( _)
( __.)

(

( )
( )
( )
( )
(__)
(__.)
( )
( )
( )
( )
( )

Whom.do you ask .-
mother, aunt or girl
friend?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

w—

own appearance?

 

1.

3.

S.

CLOTHING PREFERENCES AND BUYING PRACTICES

CODE NUMBER

98

Do you consult anyone about your clothing needs?

Yes (__) No (__). If yes, whom.do you consult?

For what items do you have to consult someone about

clothing purchases?‘

Are you allowed to buy what you like?

Always (__) Frequently (fl) Seldom (__) Never (__)

Explain

f _—

Whose opinion do you seek most frequently in regard

to clothing selection and purchase?__L

 

-r

Check the following clothing items most frequently

purchased by
Winter goat
Suit
Blouse
Sweater_
Skirt
Dress
Slip
Hosiery
Shoes

Yourself Parents

Together

6.

99

 

 

From.the following list select five influences you
consider most important in your choice of clothing.
Clothing ads in Sales clerk (__)

Newspapers (__) Style shows (__)

Magazines (__) Parents (__)

mail order catalogs (__) Best girl friend L__)
Articles on clothing in Best boy friend (__)

Newspapers (__) Store pattern books (__)

Magazines (__) Mbvies (__)
Television programs (__) Teachers (__)
Store window displays ( ) Others (specify)

Interior store dis- ( )
plays (__) _-
Clothing worn by class- (*-)
mates (__).

Where are your clothing purchases made?'

Type of Store Always Frequently Seldom. Never
Wholesale (__) L‘_) (__) (_g)
Retail

Department stores (__) (__) (__) (__)

Downtown special-

ty shape (__) (__) (__) (__)

Neighborhood '

specialty shops Q__) (__) (__) (__)

Mail order

companies ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )

8.

9.

10.

IL

100
No (__)
If yes, what type of item do you order by telephone?

Do you shOp by telephone? Yes(_)

_A A L_‘

Before making a purchase, do you shop in several
stores?

Seldom (__) Never (__)

Always (__) Frequently(___)
What information should be included on a good

informative label for a slip? u

 

Number in order of importance the three most im-
portant factors which most frequently influence
you in purchasing each of the following garments:

Skirt Blouse
Brand name (__) (__)
Color (__) (__)
Cost of upkeep (__) (__)
Ease of care (__) (__.)
Fiber content (__) (__)
Informative labels (__) (__)
Price (__) (__)
Style (__) (__)
Workmanship ( ) ( )

101
12. What garments do you try on before making a purchase?

Always Frequently Seldom Never
) ( )

Coat
Suit
Dress, cotton

(
(
(
Dress, date (
Blouse (

(

(__)
(__) (__)
(__) (__)
(__) (__)
(__) (__)
Sweater (__) (__)
Wool skirt ( ) (__) (__)
13. Are you interested in looking through a rack of
skirts that are marked down?
Always (__) Frequently {__) Seldom.(__) Never(__)
Would you look at a clearance table?
Always (__) Frequently (__). Seldom (__) Never(___)
Do you make purchases from such tables or racks?
Always (__) Frequently (__) Seldom (__) Never(__)

114. Who pays for your clothing?

All Part None
Parents ' (__) (__) (__)
Self (__) (__) (__)

Gift () () ()

102
15. How do you pay for your clothing?
Minor items as lingerie, hose, blouses

Always Frequently Seldom. Never

Cash (q) ' (__) (_ ) (__)
Charge L__) L__) (_ ) L__)
Lay away (__) L__) ( _) L__)
Installment (__) ( ) ( _) L__)
buying

Major items as coats, suits and party dresses

Always Frequently Seldom. Never

Gash (_g) (__) (__) (,_)
Charge L__) L_.) £__) (__)
Lay away (__) L__) L__) L__)
gagggélment L__) ( ) ‘( ) ( )

16. Do you consider your present clothing wardrobe
adequate for the followingtoccasiens?
Yes No
School ( )
Informal social functions ( )
Ebrmal social functions ( )
17. Would you like to spend somewhat more

somewhat less

(
(
(
I'considerably more (
(
considerably less :

what you new spend on clothing?

than

103

18. How do you feel your clothes compare with those of
your very best friend? (Place one check in each
vertical column.)

NUmber Cost Style Wbrkmanship
Very much better (__) (__) (_
somewhat better (__) ( (
Same as ( 3 ( ) (
somewhat less than (__) ( (

Not nearly so well

88 ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )

19. How do you feel your clothesczompare with those of
the majority of other girls attending this high
school? (Place one check in each vertical column.)

Number Cost style Workmanship
Very much better (_i) ( ) (__) (__)
Somewhat better (__) ( ) (__) (__)
Same as ( ) ( ) (__) (__)
Somewhat less than (__) ( ) ‘(__) (__)

Not nearly so well

as . ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )

20. Where do you obtain your information on current

fashions? List the five sources you most frequently
use.
10’

 

 

 

 

 

 

104
21. Are all of your garments purchased readypto-wear?

Yes (__) No (__)

What garments are not commercially made?

All Part None
Coats ( (__) (__) (__)
Suits (__) (__). (__)
School dresses cf (__) (__) (__)
Date dresses (__) (__.) (__)
Blouses (__) (__) (__)
Skirts (__) (__) (__.)
Lingerie (__) (__) (__)
Active sports a... (__) (__) (__)

 

 

v v—v—wv 'fi' ' ~—

22. Are your ready-to-wear garments frequently altered?

At the store (__)
At home
Mother (__)
Self (__)
Other farnily
member ( )

Dressmaker ( )

105

23. What garments in your wardrobe do you wear infre~
quently or never?

Garment Reason why infrequently or never worn

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

w v ‘— vw—‘fi

2h. Do you have any items in your wardrobe which pre-

viously belonged to someone else?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Garment Like Dislike Reason
(__) (__) _. a
a (__.) (__)
(__) (__) _g W W
(__F) (__) g a" a a T
L...) L. a

 

 

Are these garments ever altered or restyled for you?
Yes (__) Ne (__) ~
If yes, by whom?

 

“."V'

~--o-'-‘—P--

--v- on." “J"

-o:'->' :1- v..-

106
25.‘What are the colors and fabric designs of the

following garments in your wardrobe?

. .-Bold”
. Color Plain Plaid, Small Figure Print
Winter coats (__) (__) (__) (4)
Spring coat (__) ' (.4) (__) L...)
Favorite

suit ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )

Favorite School Clothes

 

Blouse
Swe ater

Skirt

c-y-b-u—uu-

I

)
)
)
)

Dress

(__.
L...
L...

Shoes Kind

 

Why is this blouse your favorite?

 

 

WW w‘v‘w—w “—'

Why is this skirt your favorite?fifi

A—L

Why are these shoes your favorite pair?

 

A a .A ._
W “

Favorite clothes for informal social functions

 

Bold

Colors Plain Plaid Small Figure Print

Blouse g (__) ~ (__) (.J (__.)
Dress. _g W: (__.) (__) (__) (__)

 

Hat _ Kama 1
Shoes Kind

 

” 107
Why is the above dress your favorite?gg

MA__
— v—vv fiv. V7. fi'.

Why are these shoes your favorite?g

A

26. Check the kinds of garments you usually wear

To School On Weekaends

Blouses or sweaters

and skirts L__) (__)
Dresses, wool (__) (__)
Dresses, silk, rayon
or synthetic (__) (__)
Dresses, cotton (__) (__)
Suits ( )

Why did you make this choice of garment for school

wear in preference to the others listed?

 

A A A _—

‘f

Why did you make this choice of garment for week-end

wear in preference to the others listed?

I l

27. Check the outer garments you usually wear

Cloth coat, fur trimmed(_

To School on Week-ends
Leather Jacket (_ ) (__)
Cloth jacket (_ _)
Fur Jacket (_ ‘__)
Cloth coat, untrimmed (_ )
)
)

)
)
)
)
_)

Fur coat (

" Wm

" v- 3""

108
28. Check the kind of hosiery you usually wear

To School On Week-ends
Anklets ( ) ( )
Nylons ( ) ( )
29. Opposite the type of shoes listed indicate the
occasions for which you consider this type of shoe
most appropriate.

Saddle shoes

 

moccasins
Ballerinas

Baby doll pumpsgg
One inch heels
Two inch heels

Four inch heels

h

A...

\l u.

u

. I .\ . I I l .. v 0 1‘ a .
o r . . v . . . o I . '
. .. w . fl, hifi . . tut. o .4 u. .Mx.‘ ..
. .. .. .. h . . 1. d‘. o
.5 . v v. (f h. 1 .\$ w . K. i . . e 4
. . a . t

, do}. . .. l... .# ‘ .

 

.. my... 1)... aura. _...2..

 

. e I‘t‘o .V/N. .

. ._ y . c. o . stem! Ned. V . Q, ..~. .5?
‘. A. .v: .l. c . .. . . J x . “.4 1 . .s. . .. . ~’tr.\
.\- . x .. . ”kiwi. .. .. . . . . .. . . .x a
. .7 c... . . . a. . . . ,. . a . . 3. _ .
Aka? e‘quur...‘ . t» . \l... quaffi’io crust. .10.. .. .. .4“; ‘.h..‘... a. . J.
a . .

 

‘ ‘1.

109

I

'fFabrie A

‘\\\;\\ fizwqx n Oct
.‘N \\ ‘Y
Q%h\fiw‘
§FC\\\\\

it N

  
 

“~ka

Fabric D

  
    
  
  

\i x
\k \ ~

\f,
\\ g a...

Identification

Fabric B

. Fabric E

 

Fabric C

 

110
30. Judging by feel and appearance check the probable

fiber content of the following fabrics:
Fabric A

(__) 100% wool
(__) Wool and synthetic blend
(__) 100% rayon

Fabric B

(__) 100% wool
( ) Wool and cotton blend

(:) 100% rayon
Fabric 0
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31. Disregarding color, which fabrics do you consider
most appropriate for the blouses shown above? Indicate

by letter your first, second and third choice.

Choice of Fabric

lst 2nd 3rd
Blouse 1. ( ) ( ) < )
Blouse 2. < ) ( ) ( )
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32. Disregarding color,. which fabrics do you consider
most appropriate for the skirts shown above? Indicate

your first, second and third choice.

Choice of Fabric

, 1st 2nd 3rd
Skirt 1. ( ) ( ) ( )
Skirt 2. ( ) ( ) ( )
Skirt 3. ( ) ( ) ( )

 

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33. Disregarding color, which fabrics do you consider
Inost appropriate for the school dresses shown above.

Indicate your first, second and third choice.

Choice of Fabric

lst 2nd 3rd
Dress 1. ( ) ( ) ( )
Dress 2. ( ) ( ) ( )
Dress 3. ( ) ( ) ( )

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34. Disregarding color, which fabrics do you consider

most appropriate for the “dressy dresses shown

above? Indicate your first, second and third choice.

Choice of Fabric

lst 2nd 3rd
Dress 1. ( ) ( ) ( )
Dress 2. ( ) ( ) ( )

Dress 3. ( ) ( ) ( )

 

 

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