A SURVEY OF THE PORTLAND APPAREL MARKET THROUGH AN iNVESTlGATiON 0F SELECTED APPAREL MANUFACTURERS Thesis for the Degree of M. A. MlCHlGAN STATE UNWERSITY JOANNE BERTHA EKENES 1969 University ., :— 1111111111111111111111111711 ' r" W :1 ' BRARY 3 1293 01101 3475 L I 1 Michigan State SSSSSS g ——— ABSTRACT A SURVEY OF THE PORTLAND APPAREL MARKET THROUGH AN INVESTIGATION OF SELECTED APPAREL MANUFACTURERS BY Joanne Bertha Ekenes An initial study of the northwestern region, this survey of the Portland Apparel Market adds to the larger investigation of regional apparel markets presently in prog- ress by the Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts Department, College of Home Economics, Michigan State University. The purpose was to discover the development of the market, the current status of the market, the growth potential and pre- dictions of the future. A representative group of manufacturers, influential in the Portland Market, was selected to respond to a struc- tured interview schedule designed to reveal information con- cerning: The structure, organization and operation of ap- parel firms; production and distribution of apparel items; and promotion, marketing and extent of the market. Present trends and future predictions were analyzed to help deter- mine the significance of the market. The production of active sportswear and casual clothes is considered by executives, designers and promotional Joanne Bertha Ekenes directors to be of major importance in making Portland dis- tinctive as a regional market. Members of the sample indi- cated the climate and terrain of the Pacific Northwest cre- ate an atmosphere appropriate to the production of sports- wear. Manufacturing firms in the Portland area are divided in size into very small and very large firms both in number and yearly wholesale volume. One-third of the firms employ under 50 persons and have a yearly wholesale volume under $500,000 while another third employs over 500 persons and realizes a yearly wholesale volume over $5,000,000. Several firms own subsidiary production plants, the majority being in the Northeast or Southeast of the United States. Most firms utilize the "in—side shop" method of production of a 12 month basis. Firms in the Portland Apparel Market produce a wide range of apparel items for men, women and children of all ages. "Sportswear" was the term most manufacturers felt described the majority of the apparel items produced in Portland. Distribution by truck, railroad and air is most frequently to retail outlets such as department stores and specialty shops. Apparel is usually designed by local designers or owners of firms. In a few instances, designers in New York are hired to create fashions for the western firms. About one-half of the firms hire designers to create pattern and Joanne Bertha Ekenes color combinations for woven and knit fabrics which are used for apparel production or sold by the bolt. Private seasonal showings are held by the majority of manufacturers twice a year. The two most popular show- ings are held in the Spring and Fall when two to five col- lections are presented. Representatives of the firms consider the future of the Pacific Northwest good to excellent as a regional market. "New designs in sportswear" and "distinctive qual- ity" were mentioned as major contributions to the national apparel industry . Information regarding possible future developments indicates a number of Portland apparel manufacturers will probably expand in the next five years. Most of the firms have tentative plans for expansion to take place before 1973. Portland's potential for growth as a regional market was optimistically regarded as "unlimited." A SURVEY OF THE PORTLAND APPAREL MARKET THROUGH AN INVESTIGATION OF SELECTED APPAREL MANUFACTURERS by Joanne Bertha Bkenes A THESIS Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts 1969 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This thesis was completed with the sharing of thoughts, guidance and unselfishness of many others. The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation to Dr. Elinor Nugent for her enthusiasm, cooperation, and many hours spent in the guidance of this study; to Dr. Mary Gephart, department chair- man, for her continued interest and invaluable assistance on all details of this study; to Dr. Twyla Shear and Dr. Arlene Otto for their advice and support in designing and completing the study. The author wishes to acknowledge Mrs. Winifred Sue Hundley for her concern and thoughtfulness related to the finalization. Gratitude is expressed to Dr. Mary Green for her help in the development of the final instrument used for the data collection. The writer is also grateful to faculty, colleagues and friends for their encouragement and partici- pation in the pretesting of the instrument. Appreciation is expressed by the writer to the Port- land, Oregon, Chamber of Commerce for their assistance in selection of the sample. Special thanks is given to Mr. Walter Emery, Portland, Oregon, for his assistance and sug- gestions in the actual data collection. The author wishes to acknowledge the individual respondents in the sample for giving their time to this study as well as the Michigan State ii University Agricultural Experiment Station for its financial support. In conclusion, the author expresses deep gratitude to her mother and friends who inspired her to this effort and encouraged her to its completion. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS O O C O I O O O O O 0 LIST OF TABLES AND FIGURES. . . . . . LIST OF APPENDICES. . . . . . . . . . Chapter I. II. III. IV. INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . Statement of the Problem. . Review of Literature. . . . Importance of the Study . . METHODOLOGY . . . . . . . . . Research Design . . . . . . Development of the Instrument Pretest . . . . . . . . . . Selection of the Sample . Description of the Sample Method of Analysis. . . . Definition of Terms . . . APPAREL FIRMS IN THE PORTLAND APPAREL Physical Structure and Organization Operation of Apparel Firms. Personnel within Apparel Firms. Summary . . . . . . . . . . APPAREL PRODUCTION. . . . . . Designers . . . . . . . . . Apparel Items . . . . . . . Summary . . . . . . . . . . MARKETING OF APPAREL ITEMS. . Promotion and Presentation. Market Distribution . . . . Extent of the Market. . . . Summary . . . . . . . . . . iv 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O MARKET. O O O O O O O O O O O O Page ii vi vii \OLMI'"l I-‘ 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 20 21 27 30 35 37 37 41 47 49 49 54 55 S9 .lllllll i'rA Chapter Page VI. ANALYSIS OF THE MARKET. . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Present Trends and Future Developments. . . 62 Significance and Importance of the Market . 65 summary 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 69 VII. SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS . . . . . . . . . 71 summary 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 71 Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 BIBLIOGRAPHY O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 81 APPENDICES O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 86 LIST OF TABLES AND FIGURES Table Page 1. Size of firms according to the number of em- ployees and the wholesale volume in terms of sales 0 O O O 0 O O O O O I O O O O, O O O O O O 23 2. Considerations influencing location of apparel firms rated unimportant, important and very im- portant by respondents of large and smaller firms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 3. Number of firms employing men and women in types of positions within size categories of employees 31 4. Number of firms requiring specific minimum edu- cational levels for employees in positions. . . 34 5. Types of apparel produced for males, females and children by selected individual firms . . . 42 6. Production of male and female apparel within age groups by selected individual firms . . . . 43 7. Number of responses of executives, designers, and promotional directors to the question, "What, in your opinion, is the future of the Pacific Northwest Apparel Market7". . . . . . . 64 8. Men's, women's, misses' and juniors' wear pro- duced by United States apparel firms during 1939 and 1965 in total units and per capita units 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 68 Figure l O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 57 vi LIST OF APPENDICES Appendix Page A. LETTER OF INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . 86 B. QUESTIONNAIRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 C O SUGGESTIONS O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 103 vii CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Statement of the Problem The apparel industry has become a major part of the United States' economy. The production of apparel for both men and women has turned into a billion-dollar industry.1 Although facilities for production and distribution are prin- cipally in the Northeast and none can compare with New York as a fashion center, smaller regional markets are growing in both size and importance throughout the nation. The Portland apparel market, although a smaller part of the Pacific Northwest regional market, contributes sub- stantially to the national apparel industry. Portland is a progressive industrial city in the West and claims to be a leader in sportswear manufacturing.2 Being the home of four of the largest sportswear manufacturers in the nation, Portland contributes not only great quantities of apparel items but adds great flavor and color to the ready-to-wear lJeannette A. Jarnow and Beatrice Judelle, Inside the Fashion Business (New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 19655, p. 53. 2Gertrude Cain, The American Way of Designing (New York: Fairchild Publications, 1950), p. 112. industry.3 In addition to the specialty in sportswear, Port- land also accredits its manufacturers with variety and diver- sification in apparel production. Much of Portland's success as an apparel market can be attributed to its geographic location. The Pacific North- west is a region of great natural beauty and year-around recreational climatic conditions which provide a setting for the nation's sports enthusiasts. Nowhere in these United States can be found so many varieties of natural beauty--rolling wheat lands, sagebrush, snowcapped mountains reaching into and above the clouds, endless miles of dark, cool ever- green forests, mountain lakes high in rugged moun— tains, sometimes surrounded by snow the year around, rushing streams and mighty rivers. All of these have contrived to make the Pacific Northwest a Sportsman's paradise.4 The growth of the region as a sports center and utilization of the outdoor facilities has been accompanied by a parallel growth in apparel manufacturing. Northwest apparel manufacturers have developed types of clothing, particularly sportswear, identifiable with the area. In the past, the Pacific Northwest had been known principally for heavy outerwear and swimwear which was pro- duced to be distributed nationally by prominent firms. To- day these manufacturers have grown so large they now operate 3Portland Chamber of Commerce, Research and Statis- tics Section, Industrial Development Department, Living Con- ditions in Portland 1966- 1967 (Portland Chamber of Commerce, Publisher, 1967), p. 4. 4W. F. Lubersky, ”Pacific Northwest, Portland and Seattle," Apparel Markets, 1948, p. 171. branches in other parts of the country and world. Sport and utility items are the major garment items produced, but trousers, rainwear, baby clothes, suits and coats are also produced or made by the Seattle and Portland area apparel plants. Because of the Northwest's growing importance in the national apparel industry, this study has undertaken an examination of one part, the Portland Apparel Market. The purpose of this investigation was to survey the produc- tion of apparel in Portland, examining the development, or- ganization and structure. The current status of the Port- land Apparel Market was analyzed in relation to production and distribution of apparel items. The significance of the market, the contribution of the Portland area to the nation's production of apparel and future trends of growth and develop- ment were considerations of this study. Review of Literature Regional apparel markets have generally been over- looked by researchers in the past. Griffin surveyed selected regional apparel markets within the national apparel indus- try. She investigated each market as to its history, develop- ment and promotional activities. Because of the number of markets involved, Griffin's study was an overview from which more recent studies of a single regional market have emerged. 5Tira W. Griffin, "A Survey of Selected Regional Ap- parel Markets Producing Women's and Misses' Apparel” (unpub- lished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1949). Dallas, Texas, a fashion center in the Southwest, has been surveyed and investigated more than any other single regional market outside New York. An early study on the Dallas Apparel Market in relation to the national and inter- national importance of the market was conducted by Gano in 1947.6 The history and development of the United States' Apparel Industry and the increase of regional markets outside New York (particularly Texas) was reviewed by Johnson.7 Adams examined the influence of public relations and promo- tional activities in the development and growth of the Dallas Apparel Market.8 More recently, Golly9 surveyed the Dallas Apparel Market as part of a larger study being conducted by Nugent10 at Michigan State University. Golly attempted to discover 6Lowell R. Gano, "The Women's and Misses' Apparel Industry in Dallas, Texas“ (unpublished Master's thesis, Southern Methodist University, Dallas, 1949). 7Elton Davis Johnson, “Women's Outerwear Industry in Texas" (unpublished Doctoral dissertation, The University of Texas, Austin, 1954). 8Margaret Adams, "Public Relations Activities as a Contributing Factor to the Growth and Development of the Dallas Fashion Market" (unpublished Master's thesis, Depart- ment of Home Economics, The University of Texas, 1958). 9Jeanne Marie Golly, "A Survey of the Present Status of the Dallas Women's Apparel Market" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1966). 10Elinor R. Nugent, "The Production and Distribution of Apparel and Related Products in the Regional Markets with- in the National Apparel Industry,” Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station Project No. 758. Research in Progress. the present status of the market through an examination of the structure and operation of the firms, types of apparel produced, distribution and promotion of apparel and the ex- tent of the market. A growing concern with the growth of apparel manufacturing in the Southeast led to investigations in that region. The economic importance and the reasons for location of the fashion apparel industry in Alabama were the concern of Bourne.ll It was concluded that fashion apparel produc- tion is economically important to Alabama and the female labor supply was considered the primary reason for location of firms within Alabama. Hersker analyzed the apparel manu- 12 He investigated facturing industry in Florida in 1962. the growth, status and relationship of Florida's production of apparel to the national industry. He further suggested a profitable course for future development in Florida. Ad- ditional studies have been conducted in other regional mar— kets. Goodman surveyed the apparel manufacturing and llJudith Mayton Bourne, "An Analysis of the Develop- ment of the Fashion Industry in Alabama, 1949-1962" (unpub- lished Master's thesis, Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama, 1962). 12Barry Jay Hersker, "The Women's Apparel Manufac- turing Industry in Florida" (unpublished Doctoral disserta- tion, The University of Florida, 1962). marketing facilities in California.13 Gross discussed trends in the dress industry in St. Louis in another earlier study.14 Mason explored the production of apparel in Michigan. Loca- tion of apparel firms, structure and organization, types of apparel produced, marketing facilities, extent of the market and factors influential in the expansion of production were facets of Mason's study.15 Apparel manufacturing in Hawaii and neighboring is- lands has been investigated by Fundaburk.l6 Apparel firms were surveyed with respect to employment characteristics, production costs, location advantages and disadvantages, and marketing conditions within the area. In 1964 at the Tripartite Technical Meeting for the Clothing Industry, Geneva, the International Labour Office reported on the economic problems arising from fluctuations of employment in the clothing industry and its effects on 13Charles S. Goodman, "The Location of Fashion In- dustries with Special Reference to the California Apparel Market," Michigan Business Studies, Vol. X, No. 2 (Ann Arbor, Michigan: University of Michigan Press, 1959). l4Bla‘hche Gross, "The Awakening of an Industry. Recent Trends in the Dress Manufacturing Industry in St. Louis“ (unpublished Master's thesis, School of Business, Columbia University, 1943). 15Mary Martell Mason, "A Survey of the Present Status of the Michigan Apparel Industry" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1968). 16Emma Lila Fundaburk, "Characteristics, Problems and Potentials of Apparel Manufacturing in Neighboring Is- lands," Economic Research Center, University of Hawaii, 1966. the national economy as a whole. They further proposed measures to reduce fluctuations in employment and improve the organization of the employment market.l7 Smaller studies on segments of the apparel industry at Michigan State University were conducted as part of the larger project on regional markets.18 Stauber focused on the American designers in New York City and their place in the development of the American fashion apparel industry.19 Kilbourne investigated the custom design firms in Michigan and their contribution to the Michigan Apparel Industry.20 The women's knit and outerwear and lingerie industry in Reading-Berks County, Pennsylvania, was examined by 21 Desjardins. Production, distribution, future growth potential and the contribution of the Reading-Berks County 17International Labour Office, Tripartite Technical Meeting for the Clothing Industry, Problems Arisin from Fluctuations of Employment in the Clothing_Industry (Geneva, 1964). 18Nugent, op. cit. l9Elaine C. Stauber, "A Study of the Creative Meth- ods of American Designers and Their Contributions to the Fashion Apparel" (unpublished Master's problem, Michigan State University, 1966). 20Helen Margaret Kilbourne, "A Study of a Selected Group of Custom Design Firms within the Michigan Apparel Industry“ (unpublished Master's problem, Michigan State University, 1966). ' 21Andrea Ruth Desjardins, "The Production and Dis- tribution of Women's Knit Outerwear and Lingerie by Firms in the Reading-Berks County, Pennsylvania Market Area” (unpublished Master's problem, Michigan State University, 1967 . area market to the apparel industry of the United States were considerations of that study. Other descriptive investigations have been undertaken and reported in books written by such authors as Arnold and 22 23 24 25 26 White, Crawford, Chambers, 28 and Roscho.29 These works cover the Cain, Jarnow and Judelle, Nystrom,27 Levin, apparel industry in a general manner with reference to fash- ion designers, apparel production, retailing, unions and consumption. Numerous functions within the industry as well as discussions of the influence of the apparel industry on outside factors such as the national economy, the national labor force and world markets are included. The importance of the regional markets was presented 22Pauline Arnold and Percival White,'Clothes and Cloth (New York: Holiday House, 1961). 23Gertrude Cain, The American Way of Designing (New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1950). 24M. D. C. Crawford, The Ways of Fashion (New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1948). 25Bernice G. Chambers, Fashion Fundamentals (New York: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 19477. 26Jarnow and Judelle, op. cit. 27Paul Nystrom, Economics of Fashion (New York: Ronald Press Co., 1928). 28Phyllis Lee Levin, The Wheels of Fashion (New York: Doubleday and Company, 1965). 29Bernard Roscho, The Rag Race (New York: Funk and Wagnalls Company, Inc., 19631: by Hall in his book, Made in New York.30 Hall related the trends toward development of regional markets and decentral- ization of apparel production in the late 1950's. Importance of the Study To date, few studies of apparel markets within the ready-to-wear garment industry of the United States are available. Griffin surveyed regional apparel markets and indicated more detailed studies of single markets would be of value.31 Golly, in her study of the Dallas Apparel Mar- ket, suggested that in-depth studies of many regional mar- kets would contribute to existing knowledge and be of im- portance to educators, businessmen and industry.32 Mason also recommended in her study of the Michigan Apparel Indus- try that investigation of other regional markets would per- mit comparative studies of regional markets and help to establish the contribution of regional markets in the na- tional apparel industry.33 The Portland Apparel Market has expanded along with a climbing growth in population. From 1960 to 1965, the population of the Portland metropolitan area increased over 3OMax Hall (ed.), Made in New York (Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1959). 31Griffin, op. cit., p. 244. 32.Golly. 02. cit., p. 111. 33Mason, op. cit., p. 65. 10 forty per cent.34 The Portland apparel industry was able to absorb a large part of this increase through employment of additional labor. Production volume from 15 to 25 mil- lion dollars has been reported during the period from 1958 to 1963.35 Such rapid growth seems to suggest Portland is gaining both in size and importance as a contributor to the total apparel industry. A study of the Portland Apparel Market would provide specific information about a growing market and help to fur- ther insight into the development of regional apparel markets. This study would add to the growing store of information with regard to apparel production which would be helpful to educational, industrial business and governmental per- sonnel involved in the apparel industry. Additional know- ledge may also be of assistance to others as a guideline to furnish suggestions for future investigations of major or secondary apparel markets. 34Portland Chamber of Commerce, Research and Statis- tics Section, Industrial Development Department, Living Con- ditions in Portland 1966-1967 (Portland Chamber of Commerce, Publisher, 1967), p. 1. 35U.S. Bureau of the Census, Census of Manufacturers, 1963, Prelipinary Report, Area Series: Washingtoniand Ore- gpp, Vol. III (Washington, D.C.: U.S. Government Printing CHAPTER II METHODOLOGY Research Design The purpose of this study was to obtain information about the production of wearing apparel by manufacturing firms in the Portland area of the Northwestern region of the United States. Such information would give valuable insight into the current status of the Portland area as an apparel market and its contribution to the national apparel industry. First a broad exploration was made of the various aspects of apparel production and distribution, descriptive of the present status of a particular market. Secondly, the data were used to evaluate the potential growth and future development of the Portland apparel industry and indicate the importance and significance to the national apparel industry . Because no intense research of this market has been conducted, an initial study must be a descriptive and ex- ploratory survey. Kerlinger describes survey research as that branch of social scientific investigation that studies large and small populations (or universes) by selecting and studying samples chosen from populations to discover the 11 12 relative incidence, distribution and interrelations of se- lected variables.l Development of the Instrument To gain depth and understanding of the Portland Ap— parel Market, the interview method of obtaining data was chosen. Kerlinger points out that the interview permits probing into the context of, and reasons for, answers to questions.2 He also states the most successful examples of survey research utilize the personal interview as the principal method of gathering information.3 In order to make the interview schedule adaptable and capable of being employed with various kinds of respond- ents, the questions used were fixed-alternative or closed, open-ended and scale item types. Kerlinger states that all three types of items should be included in an instrument for sounding people's behavior patterns, future intentions, feelings, attitudes and reasons for behavior.4 Fixed-alternative or closed questions were used to achieve greater uniformity of measurement and thus attain greater reliability. These questions were primarily aimed 1Fred N. Kerlinger, Foundations of Behayioral Re— search (New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1967), p. 392. 21bid., p. 468. 31bid., p. 395. 41bid., p. 476. 13 to obtain descriptive data of the Portland Apparel Market. The open—ended items were included in the instrument to make better estimates of the respondent's true attitudes on various aspects of the Portland Apparel Market. Often a "funnel“ type of item was useful, starting with a broad question, narrowing down progressively to an important point. Follow-up open-ended questions achieved greater depth. Scale items obtained an expression of various de- grees of agreement, disagreement and attitudes. The respond- ents were able to rank phenomena according to their own pref- erences and attitudes. These items were helpful in securing information which might be unique to each apparel manufac- turer or production plant. A review of instruments from other studies was of assistance in the selection of items for questioning. The actual subject matter content of the instrument was suggested by instruments from previous studies but was adjusted to this particular region (locale). The instrument was con— structed to secure information which would satisfy the re- search objectives and be of value in future apparel market studies. Pretest The pretest is a method of testing the interview schedule for clarity and validity. Ahmann and Glock point out the perfect instrument must serve the purpose or pur- poses for which it was intended and in doing so, must produce 14 consistent information.5 To achieve consistency, the inter- view schedule was pretested in East Lansing, Michigan, by administering it to one retail buyer, two retail salesmen, one department store manager, one testing and measurement expert and two clothing graduate students. The pretest helped to provide the researcher with experience in interviewing and presenting questions to ob— tain information. Also the pretest served to check the in- terpretations made by respondents and the length of the in- terview schedule. After the pretest, minor changes were made in the order of the items contained in the instrument. Greater ease in administration and clarity were gained with the altered sequence. The instrument was considered ready for use in the collection of data for the Portland Apparel Mar- ket survey. Selection of the Sample The sample was obtained by first securing a list of all apparel manufacturers in the Portland area from the Portland Chamber of Commerce.6 A letter was sent to every 5J. Stanley Ahmann and Marvin D. Glock, Evaluatin Pupil Growth (Boston: Allyn and Bacon, Inc., 1967), p. 314. 6Portland Chamber of Commerce, Industrial Develop— ment Department, Classified List of Textile and Apparel Products in the Portland Area (Portland Chamber of Commerce, 1966). 15 firm on the list explaining the purpose and importance of the study. Each manufacturer was asked to participate in the study and to grant an interview (Appendix A). Then ap- pointments were to be made by telephone at a future date. By the time the interviews were scheduled, the re- searcher found several firms had recently retired from the industry, changed names or moved to other parts of the United States. Twelve firms (48 per cent of the total asked) agreed to participate in this study and granted appointments for interviews when approached through telephone calls. Description of the Sample The manufacturing firms participating in this study varied in size from small companies to large corporations. In several firms, one or two persons were able to carry out all functions within the firm from the designing and con- struction of the garments to the distribution of the finished products. In some firms one executive was responsible for all of the managerial functions of the production, distri- bution and promotion, while a designer created the garments for the collections. In the larger firms each task such as designing, promotion or managing a particular operation was carried out by a designated person. Garments and ap- parel items were actually constructed by workers on an as- sembly line. From the twelve manufacturing firms participating, 22 adults were selected to be interviewed by purposive 16 sampling. These interviewees included 12 executives, three designers, and seven promotional directors. The questionnaire was in five parts: the first three parts were directed to managerial executives; the fourth part consisted of questions for designers; and the last part was directed to promotional directors. In in- stances where one person performed two or more functions, that person acted as the respondent for the parts of the interview pertaining to those functions. Method of Analysis The information concerned with the Portland Apparel Market gained from the interview schedule was summarized for presentation. Because the interview schedule was highly structured, most of the responses were coded prior to the analysis. Uncoded responses were compiled for description of the market area. All data were tabulated to facilitate analysis. Tables were included in the presentation to com- pile information in a visual form for rapid review of the data. In order to respect the wishes of the executives and persons interviewed, the data are presented in anonymous form. Definition of Terms To facilitate an understanding of this presentation of the Portland Apparel Market, specific terms which have 17 been used have been defined. Apparel refers to articles of clothing and accessor- ies produced for consumers. Ready-to—wear is apparel which is mass produced as Opposed to apparel made to order (custom made).7 The firms which produce the various categories of apparel make up the apparel or garment industpy. Stylg in this study refers to a particular cut, de- sign or type of apparel article distinctive or characteris- tic of a typical mode.8 Design is then the arrangement of parts, form, line, color, etc., of the style.9 The artist who creates original designs, evolving new concepts and cre- ative ways of reexpressing basic aesthetic principles in apparel, is the designer.10 A lips is a group of similar styles created by a designer. Any number of lines make up a collection which is exhibited at a formal presentation or showing to pros— pective buyers. An apparel market is made up of manufacturers pro- ducing a particular type of apparel for which there is a demand. Regional market refers to the apparel manufacturers 7Jeannette A. Jarnow and Beatrice Judelle, Inside the Fashion Business (New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965), p. 264. 8Mary Brooks Picken, The Fashion Dictionar (New York: Funk and WagnallsCompany, 1957 , p. 338. 9Jarnow and Judelle, op. cit., p. 263. loIbid., p. 43. 18 in a particular geographic region.11 The Portland Apparel Market is a particular geographic location constituting a demand for apparel products, specifically the Portland Met- ropolitan area. In this study, the Pacific Northwest refers to the area of the United States which includes the states of Oregon and Washington. Within the garment industry, there are several types of manufacturing plants. Some firms produce apparel in their own plants while others do not; therefore it becomes neces- sary to distinguish between them. Those firms which produce garments made of textile fabrics cut, sewn and finished within their own facilities or plant are of the "inside shop" type of manufacturers. The jobber is a specialist in buying raw materials and in selling finished products, leaving all manu- facturing operations of cutting, sewing, and finishing for other concerns.12 The contractor does the sewing and fin- ishing for other producers. These contracting or “outside shops" employ operators and produce to the specifications of others such as jobbers who hire their services. Promotion of the goods produced becomes a major func- tion in any major industry. The promotional director of 11Jeanne Marie Golly, "A Survey of the Present Status of the Dallas Women's Apparel Market" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1966), p. 12. 12Paul H. Nystrom, Economics of Fashion (New York: The Ronald Press Company, 1928), p. 442. 19 an apparel firm is in charge of all forms of advertising, selling aids, publications and press releases concerned with the promotion of the products produced by that firm. CHAPTER III APPAREL FIRMS IN THE PORTLAND APPAREL MARKET This survey of the Portland Apparel Market was con- ducted through an investigation of selected apparel firms in the area. The information obtained from interviews with members of these firms was used to describe the Portland Apparel Market. This chapter presents characteristics of the apparel firms in three main categories: 1) physical structure and organization, 2) operations and 3) personnel. The first section presents the physical structure and organization of the firms and includes the growth, de- velopment, size and location of the plants included in this study. Methods of production, distribution of products and (the source of materials used by the selected manufacturers are included as aspects of the operations of the firms in the Portland area. The third section is devoted to the personnel within the firms. The division of responsibilities, the organiza- tion of employees, functions and positions of employees within the firms are the major considerations of this cate- gory. 20 21 Physical Structure and Ogganization Growth and Development Each of the apparel manufacturers participating in this study was asked the place and year of establishment of his firm. All reported production had started in the state of Oregon and all but one indicated establishment in the Portland area. The oldest firm originated in 1880. The greatest number of firms originated between 1930-1939. The periods of firm establishment are as follows: Number of Firms Periods of establishment: 1880-1889 1 1890-1899 1 1900-1909 0 1910-1919 1 1920-1929 2 1930-1939 5 1940-1949 2 1950-1959 0 1960-1969 0 Executives of each firm were asked the principal reason for establishment in the Portland area. Ten respond- ents reported the original owners of the firms lived in the area, one stated lack of competition as the reason and one respondent did not give a reason for establishment in Port- land. 22 Ownership The respondents were questioned regarding ownership of firms. The responses revealed one firm was under private individual ownership; one firm was a partnership; three firms were open corporations; and seven firms (58 per cent) were closed corporations. Golly1 found in the Dallas Apparel Market study that firms preferred not to reveal the nature of their financial backing. Therefore, such questioning was not included in this investigation. Size and Location The size of the firms was determined by the number of employees within the firm as well as by the dollar whole- sale volume in terms of sales. Table 1 indicates the number of companies in each employee size category as used by the Census of Manufacturers2 and the wholesale volume manufac- turers indicated in the interview schedule. Table 1 demonstrates that firms with the largest number of employees have the largest wholesale volume (in terms of sales). One-third of the firms employed over 500 lJeanne Marie Golly, "A Survey of the Present Status of the Dallas Women's Apparel Market" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1966), p. 32. 2U.S. Bureau of Census, Census of Manufacturers, 1963, Industpy Statistigg, Part 1, Vol. 11 (Washington, D.C.: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1966). 23 Table 1. Size of firms according to the number of employees and the wholesale volume in terms of sales Number of Employees Wholesale Volume in Terms of Sales Under $100- $250— $500, 51-5, Over $100, 250, 500, 000- 000, $5, T 000 000 000 1,000, 000 000, 000 000 0 0 1-4 0 5-9 1 1 10-19 1 1 20-49 1 2 1 4 50-99 1 1 100-249 1 1 250-499 0 500-999 1 1 1000-2499 2 2 2500 over 1 1 Total 1 2 4 1 0 4 12 24 persons and a wholesale volume over five million dollars yearly while one-fourth of the firms employed under 50 per- sons and their wholesale volume is somewhat under 250,000 dollars yearly. These figures show the apparel firms in Portland, range from very small to very large in these re- spects. The average Portland Apparel Market firm realized a yearly volume of approximately 500,000 dollars which is considered the average for the American dress manufacturing firms.3 To further explore the size and location of firms, respondents were asked about the number of production plants and the location of such plants. The responses indicated seven firms operated two production plants, one firm oper- ated six plants and two operated eight plants. All firms operate at least one plant in the Portland area, one firm operated a second plant within the state of Oregon, four firms operated plants within other states including Cali- fornia, Georgia, Nebraska, North Carolina, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, Tennessee and Washington. One firm reported operating a plant in San Juan and two firms have licensees in other countries. When respondents were asked about the possibility of changing locations, two replied "yes“ while ten answered in the negative. In those cases where there had been 3Phyllis Lee Levin, The Wheels of Fashion (New York: Doubleday and Company, Inc., 1965), p. 6. 25 consideration to change location, the reasons given were "better labor,” and "less union control." Most firms in the Portland area seemed satisfied with the present condi- tions and location. Executives were asked to rate considerations of im- portance in deciding upon a site for a textile or apparel firm. A scale from one to five was used to indicate degrees from "unimportant" (l) to "very important" (5). These re- sults are summarized in Table 2. The most important consideration of manufacturers in deciding upon plant site location as available labor. Inexpensive operations costs were also mentioned as a pri- mary consideration whereas available advertising media were not significant to most firms, large or small. Available resources, tax structure, and transportation facilities were considered by both large and small firms to be relatively important. Smaller firms mentioned the retail and wholesale market as having considerable importance; larger firms tended to rate these as having little bearing on plant size location. Factors Influencing_§rowth, Development, Size and Location During the interview schedule it seemed apparent that respondents of smaller firms differed in opinion from respondents of larger firms on factors influencing growth, development, size and location. Larger firms favored geo- graphic location as the most important single factor making the production of apparel profitable. Most of these firms 26 Table 2. Considerations influencing location of apparel firms rated unimportant, important and very im- portant by respondents of large and smaller firms T A. Large firms-—yearly wholesale volume more than $500,000 Considerations Unimportant Important Impziignt 1 2 3 4 5 Available advertising media 4 1 Available labor 5 Available resources 2 3 Inexpensive operation costs 1 1 3 Transportation facilities 2 2 1 Retail market 3 l 1 Wholesale market 2 1 2 Tax structure 1 1 2 2 B. Smaller firms--yearly wholesale volume less than $500,000 Considerations Unimportant Important Impziiint l 2 3 4 5 Available advertising media 3 l 3 Available labor 1 6 Available resources 1 5 l Inexpensive operation costs 1 6 Transportation facilities 1 3 3 Retail market 1 3 3 Wholesale market 1 l 2 3 Tax structure 1 1 4 l 1 27 are producers of sportswear or swimwear and felt that their home plant should be located in the Portland area or on the West coast for their image. Because our West Coast is water mad, with almost more swimmers to the square mile than there are inhabitants, it was predestined that the bathing suit makers would be born and flourish there.4 Smaller firms in the Portland area produced a smaller variety of apparel items so they did not feel the importance to being located in or near the sportswear market. Their concern was placed in the area of production costs and an available retail market. Respondents of smaller manufactur- ers implied their growth and development were directly re- lated to the management within the firm rather than any image which had been created by the regional firms. Operation of Apparel Firms Method of Production All of the firms interviewed indicated their opera- tions were of a type which classified them as manufacturers and two indicated they were also jobbers to some degree. The inside shop method of production is employed by all manufacturers and the two firms (those who indicated they were partial jobbers) utilize the jobber-contractor method of production for that segment of manufacturing. As stated in the previous section of this chapter, 4Jessica Davies, Ready Made Miracle (New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1967), p. 113. 28 five firms operated more than one production plant outside the Portland area. Of those firms, three produce a specific type of merchandise in each plant while the remaining firms do not. Three-fourths of the manufacturers operate their production plants on a twelve months' basis, others operate on a seasonal basis. Source of Materials The materials used and the transportation of these materials for apparel production are an important part of the operation costs of any firm. The apparel firms inter- viewed were asked where they obtain the materials for their products (see appendix). One firm indicated all materials are obtained within the state of Oregon, four firms revealed their materials came from the Pacific Northwest region. All remaining manufacturers in this sample (seven) obtain materials from other regions, states and/or countries. Re- spondents reporting the use of materials from other regions and states, mentioned the East and South as primary sources. This finding parallels Golly'ss research in Dallas and Mason's6 Michigan study, both report the East and South as important sources of materials for manufacturers in SGolly, o . cit., p. 34. 6Mary Martell Mason, "A Survey of the Present Status of the Michigan Apparel Industry" (unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1968), p. 29. 29 their studies. The §g§£_represented the New England states, New York and Pennsylvania. New York was mentioned most of- ten. The §ppp§_referred to the Southeastern states of Ala- bama and North Carolina. California was also mentioned as an important source in the West. Two manufacturers specified they use imported Euro- pean materials usually fabrics from Austria and France. Both firms are relatively small; one is a general sportswear manufacturer and the other is a custom blouse manufacturer. Method of Distribution Manufacturers were asked about the channels through which their merchandise is distributed for consumption. The methods of transportation utilized by firms for distribution of their merchandise to customers were also disclosed by respondents. The following chart summarizes the responses given by respondents: Number of Mentions Methods of distribution: Transportation Facilities Truck 11 Air 11 Railroad 9 Water 3 Consumer Pick-up 1 Distribution Channels Factory to Retailer Factory to Retailer and Wholesaler Factory to Consumer Factory to Wholesaler ONO) Q 30 The above responses indicate all but one firm uti- lized the truck and airline methods of transportation. In addition to these methods, three-fourths of the manufactur- ers used railroads to distribute their goods to outlets. Water methods of transportation were used only by large firms for shipping long distances to such places as Alaska and Hawaii. One manufacturer produced custom apparel for individual customers and therefore did not use any of the forms of transportation listed. When respondents were asked about distribution chan- nels, the majority of them answered that their firms send merchandise direct to retailers; however, three indicated they also send direct to retailers and wholesalers. Two manufacturers specified they sell their apparel products directly to the consumer. One firm operates its own retail outlet while the other sold from the manufacturing plant. Personnel Within Apparel Firms Executives of the firms participating in this study indicated the approximate number of employees in the follow- ing types of positions within their firms: executive offi- cers, production managers, promotional directors, designers, skilled laborers and unskilled laborers. Table 3 indicates the number of firms employing per- sonnel in these various positions according to the employee size categories set up by the Bureau of Census. 7Bureau of Census, op. cit. 31 Table 3. Number of firms employing men and women in types of positions within size categories of employees Number of Firmsa Size Categories of Employeesb Types of Positions 3‘, 3 1m as ox v as ox (V o ox In 01 cu 'w ox I I .4 e 01 I I I <3 0 v 0\ I I l c: <5 <3 01 c: I I o» c: <5 10 U) <3 <3 m 0 H In H N In H N In H N Men: Executive officers 1 7 4 Production managers 3 6 2 l Promotional directors 7 4 1 Designers 5 6 1 Skilled laborers 4 2 2 l l 1 l Unskilled laborers ll 1 Women: Executive officers 6 6 Production managers 8 3 1 Promotional directors 11 1 Designers 7 3 l 1 Skilled laborers l 1 2 2 1 l 1 2 l UnSkilled laborers 5 2 1 2 1 l aTwelve selected firms. bSize categories established by the U.S. Bureau of Census. 32 It is demonstrated in Table 3, executive positions are held usually by men. However, smaller firms with one to four executive officers, employ as many women as men in these positions. Executive positions in larger firms are held by men in this sample. Only one-third of the manufac- turers indicated women hold positions as production managers whereas three-fourths employ men in this position. Propor- tionately the size of the firm had little bearing on whether men or women hold positions as production managers. Only one-half of the manufacturers interviewed re— ported they employ a person exclusively as a promotional director. Some firms stated this task was part of the duties of the executive officer. Of the firms employing promotional directors five employ men in this position and one employs women. Almost all firms indicated this position was held by fewer than five persons within a firm. Table 3 indicates slightly more men than women held positions as designers, seven and five respectively. Three- fourths of the firms employed less than five designers; how- ever, two firms reported employing more than five women and one firm more than five men. Skilled laborers are usually employed as production workers, assembling and constructing the garments. All but one firm revealed they employ women as skilled laborers and seven firms employ men as skilled laborers. The largest firm employed as many as 500 men in skilled labor positions 33 and over 2500 women. Two firms employ up to 1000 women whereas no firm employs more than 500 men. Three-fourths of the manufacturers interviewed em- ploy unskilled laborers. These unskilled laborers are usu- ally trained by their particular employer for a production task unique to that firm. Only one of the larger firms em- ploys men in this position (up to 100). Seven firms employ women as unskilled laborers. When manufacturers in the sample were asked about union affiliation, the majority of firms indicated their employees had no affiliation. Of the four firms indicating union affiliation, workers of three are members in the Inter- national Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. The general atti- tude of manufacturers toward unionization was negative and several smaller firms reported strong resentment toward unions, considering them a threat to their existence. With the advances in science and technology, the apparel industry has placed stress upon education. To dis- cover how this emphasis has affected persons employed in the Portland Apparel Market, executives and personnel man- agers were asked what educational levels they require of their employees. Table 4 summarizes these responses. The required amount of education of employees in- creases as the skill and status of the position rises in the Portland Apparel Market. Table 4 indicates the majority of firms did not consider a high school diploma necessary l.l.lll III '3' ‘l 34 for an unskilled or skilled position. Several executives mentioned that these positions required individuals with patience, speed and accuracy and felt that a high school diploma, although a help, was not necessary. No employer considered a college degree as having any bearing on these positions. Table 4. Number of firms requiring specific minimum educa- tional levels for employees in types of positions Types of Positions Number of Firms Educational Levels Below High College Graduate High School Degree School School Diploma Executive officers 2 2 8 0 Production managers 2 8 2 0 Promotional directors 3 6 3 0 Designers 3 8 l 0 Skilled laborers 7 5 0 0 Unskilled laborers ll 1 0 0 Most executives agreed that a high school education was a necessity for employees in such managerial positions as designers, promotional directors and production managers. Some firms required a college degree for these positions while others thought it as desirable but not necessary. Two-thirds of the respondents considered a college 35 degree necessary for any tOp executive office with an apparel manufacturing firm. They were of the opinion that a college education prepared employees for the responsibility, initia- tive and organizational qualities necessary for those posi- tions. Of the 12 respondents, none mentioned graduate school as a necessity for any position within their firms. Respond- ents indicated that there is a definite trend in the direc- tion of more education for all employee positions. Respondents indicated their training program within the firm was often more useful to employees than more formal educational achievement. All larger firms have regular training programs for all levels of employment. Some hold formal classes familiarizing future employees with firm pro- cedures as well as specific positions to be held. Other firms train their employees by the "on-the-job" method. The new employees work with experienced employees to learn the requirements of the specific position. All smaller firms train new personnel by the latter method. Summary Most of the firms participating in this study were established during the period of 1930-1939. The majority of firms are owned by closed corporations; but since ques- tions concerning financial backing were not included in the interview, methods of financing were not revealed. One-third of the firms in the sample employ 20-49 36 persons while another third employ over 500 persons. The average wholesale volume of these firms is $500,000 per year. All firms operate at least one production plant in the Portland area and a few own subsidiary plants in other parts of the United States. These firms use the ”inside shop" method of production and usually operate on a 12 month basis. Trucking, railroad and air transportation are used most frequently to distribute merchandise produced by Port- land manufacturers to retailers for distribution to consu- mers. Department stores and specialty shops are the type of retail outlets utilized by most firms. It was found that men usually hold executive posi- tions within the apparel firms while an equal number of men and women are employed as designers. Women usually hold more positions as skilled and unskilled laborers. The more responsibility connected with specific positions, the more education is required by manufacturers to attain these posi- tions in the Portland Apparel Market. CHAPTER IV APPAREL PRODUCTION An outstanding feature in the United States is the specialization of clothing firms in certain types of goods such as overcoats, suits, dresses, sportswear and under- clothes.l Portland apparel manufacturers typically produce a variety of apparel items for consumption throughout the United States. Chapter IV describes first the functions of the de- signers creating apparel items in the Portland apparel firms, the types of designs produced and the collections of indi- vidual designers. Secondly, apparel items are reported ac- cording to styles, age ranges, sex, price categories and seasonal lines. Designers The designer is still the foundation of any garment manufacturing company, whether he is the employer or an employee. The designer's responsibility includes keeping abreast of the changing tastes and demands of the American 1International Labour Office, Tripartite Technical Meeting for the Clothing Industry, Problems Arisin from Fluctuations of Emplgyment in the Clothing Industry (Geneva, 19647, p. 107. 37 dlllll‘lll'l'llllll 38 public as well as bringing out styles which will represent current and coming fashions.2 Functions of Designers The designing of apparel items was considered as a separate department by five of the twelve firms inter- viewed. Of those five, two firms employed designers located in New York while the remaining three hired designers within the Portland area. Seven firms, all smaller ones, indicated the actual designing of garment collections was a function of holders of managerial positions or in some cases con- tracted out. Respondents were asked what name they used in their designs. The majority mentioned the firm name was used most often on the labels of the apparel items. Three respondents indicated they design under their own name, which in one case was also the same name as the firm. Further investigation showed that one-half of the designers interviewed generally design for department stores. Eleven of the 12 respondents also mentioned specialty shops as a prime retail outlet for their creations. Only one firm indicated mail order houses and chain stores as considera- tions when designing their collections. One designer did not aim for any specific retail outlet but did custom designs 2Jeannette A. Jarnow and Beatrice Judelle, Inside the Fashion Business (New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965), p. 68. 39 for individuals. Types of Designs The respondents were asked to classify the types of apparel they design into several categories; three-fourths mentioned "sportswear” as the descriptive term for their designs while one firm mentioned "infants-wear" and two men- tioned "coats and suits." One designer indicated his prime concern was to design "lingerie," while another respondent considered “uniforms" as the most important item in her col- lection. While a few mentioned "daytime wear" and "evening wear" as a category, they also used "sportswear" as an ap- propriate classification. More specifically, respondents mentioned a variety of items they considered as their specialty. Two designers indicated they were known for their tailored-classic styles; other designers mentioned such items as custom shirts, fish- ing vests, sweaters, uniforms and infant-giftwear. All of these apparel items seem to suggest that a variety of sports- wear of all types plays a leading role in the Portland Ap- parel Market. Collections One-half of the designers present between two and five collections yearly, while another one-third create only one collection per year. One of the larger firms employs enough designers to create up to 200 collections per year. 40 When respondents were asked the percentage of their collection which represented new styles each year, the re- sponses were divided into distinct groups. About one-half of the designers indicated that less than five per cent of their collections represented new styles. The remainder estimated that over 20 per cent of their annual collection represented new styles. Designers of larger firms mentioned that buyers are more receptive to the new fashions they create each year because the American public is fashion conscious and want "newness.“ One designer felt that new fashions were a "must" in sportswear and sell better on the market than the classics. The designers of medium to smaller size firms re- vealed their buyers were less receptive to new fashions. Nearly all of these firms attributed this to their reputa- tion for a particular design or style which has consistently been a good seller. These designers also indicated they would prefer not to change their entire collection each year. Again about one-half of the designers disclosed their designs were copied on the mass market but this could not be prevented. Designers felt those designs which are not copied are too expensive to make duplication worthwhile or too complicated because of custom construction techniques. Five firms employ designers to plan colors and pat- terns for woven or knit fabrics. These fabrics are used within the firms in the production of apparel items as well 41 as sold by the bolt to retail outlets for public consumption. All five firms mentioned that over ten per cent of their total designing within the design departments was directed to fabric designs. Apparel Items The ultimate goal of those persons in the apparel industry is to have the consumer buy their merchandise. To inspire the consumer, manufacturers must not only accur- ately predict the coming fashions, but also make available variety in types of apparel produced, price ranges, styles, seasonal lines, and age ranges. Types of Apparel To discover the types of apparel produced in the Portland Apparel Market, responses from individual firms have been summarized in Table 5. There are six main cate- gories for types of apparel: coats, suits, dresses, sep- arates (jackets, skirts), blouses or shirts, and underclothes. Respondents were also asked what age groups they aim for in their presentation. Production of apparel items for males, females and children is summarized in Table 6. Table 5 designates the types of apparel items pro- duced by each of the 12 individual firms for males, females and children. One firm produced only childrens' and infants' wear while two firms manufactured mens' wear and four firms were exclusively producers of womens' wear. The remaining 42 o u cmupahnou m u mmamsmmn z mmamzm Uh: Uh: Uh Uh h h h HHX Uh: Uh Uh: h Uh Uh: h HX Uh: Uh Uh U U X h: h Uh: h h h h XH Uh: Uh Uh: Uh HHH> h h h h h h h HH> h h H> h h h > h >H : : HHH : HH U U H mmnuoau muuwnm muuaxm mumxumw mmmmono momamIN mumamIH mumou meuam lumps: no mmumunmmm madam mumsoam, . mEmuH amumam< mo awake omuuoamm an U cmwoaanu can annamsmm m meunm Hmspn>fiocfi .mmame How pmusoomm Hmumamm mo momma .m magma 43 Table 6. Production of malea and femaleb apparel within age groups by selected individual firms Age Groups Under Over Firms 5 5-12 13-17 18-21 22-30 31-50 50 I MF II M M M III M M M IV F F F V F VI F F F VII F F F F VIII M M F F F IX MP MP MP MF MF X M MP MP MF MF XI MP MF MP MP MP MF XII MF MP MP MP MP MF aMales = M bFemales = F 44 five firms produced a substantial amount of apparel for men, women and children. The firm producing for children and infants only was mainly concerned with the manufacturing of dresses and underwear. The two mens' wear firms were both producing the majority of their items, usually coats, shirts and jackets. Of the firms producing women's apparel exclusively, two firms were coat and suit firms, another manufactured dresses and blouses, and the fourth produced almost all types of women's apparel. Table 5 reveals that coats were produced by seven of the firms in this study, four of which manufactured coats only for women. Six firms manufactured suits both two and three piece, only for women. Dresses and skirts for women and children are produced by one-half of the participating firms. Jackets are produced by seven firms of which four manufactured for men and children and six exclusively for women. Blouses and shirts were made by the majority of firms in the Portland Apparel Market. One firm did custom designed shirts for men while another manufactured blouses for fe- males. Underclothes were designed, manufactured and sold by two firms, one of which produced only for children and the other for men, women and children. Several firms mentioned clothing items produced in 45 addition to those included in Table 5. Two firms mentioned swimwear as an extremely important item in their seasonal lines for both spring and fall. Another infants-wear firm included diapers and bibs as important to their existence as an apparel firm. Again an examination of Table 5 denotes the major- ity of firms in the Portland Apparel Market produce more apparel items for women than they do for either men or child- ren. There are twice as many apparel firms producing only for women as those producing for men. Those firms manufac- turing apparel for males, females and children, also make more apparel for the female sex than for males and children. Age Groups Portland manufacturers indicated their apparel items were intended for persons ranging in age from children under five years to adults over 50 years. The majority of apparel items are produced for the age groups between 18 and 50 years of age. Only two firms design specifically for per- sons over 50 years of age although most firms indicated their garments are worn by persons of all ages. Table 6 indicates the production of apparel within the specified age groups by each individual firm. Those firms producing for children, design apparel for both males «and females under 12 years old. Two firms produce for male <:hi1dren only. Those firms producing for males only make the 46 majority of their apparel for the 22-30 and 31-50 age brack— ets. Firms producing for women aim at the age groups between 18 and 50. Five firms manufacturing for men, women and child- ren include all age groups up to 50 years in their produc- tion as seen in Table 6. Price Ranges Manufacturers were asked to classify their merchan- dise into retail and wholesale price categories as follows: Under $5; $5—15; $15-25; $25-50; and over $50. Two-thirds of the firms indicated the majority of their apparel items wholesale in the $5-15 price category. Two firms indicated the wholesale price of their merchandise is under $5 whereas the remaining two firms wholesale their merchandise at $50 or more per item. One-half of the firms interviewed mention the $15-25 price category as the average retail price range for their apparel products. Another one-third of the respondents in- dicated their merchandise retailed in the $25-50 and over $50 brackets. From the above information, it can be concluded that apparel produced in the Portland Apparel Market is usually within a moderate price range. §easonal Showings Showings are usually held three or four months in 47 advance of the major seasons to prospective buyers of sea- sonal lines. Each season has a special emphasis for show- ings: Spring and Summer for the resort line, Fall for the opening of school, and Winter for the Christmas season. The number of shows held by the individual firms varies according to the size of the firms and the type of apparel items produced. Portland firms indicated two showings per year are the average number; however, one firm has as many as 12 showings yearly. None of the firms participating in this study holds a special showing for the press. Not all firms use showings. Two firms reported merchandise is sold through representatives and they do not have showings as such. When the Portland apparel manufacturers were asked to comment on the most important season for which they pro- duce, several firms stated Spring. The reason for this season's importance was their production of swimwear and resort wear. Other firms mentioned fall and winter as more important because they produce skiwear, winter coats and jackets. There is no particular season of the year which the majority of firms consider as the most important to the Portland Apparel Market. Most firms produce the majority of their lines year around. Summary About one-half of the firms in the Portland Apparel Market have a separate design department within their 48 establishment and the majority of firms hire local design- ers. Most designs are labeled under the name of the firm which employs the designer rather than the name of individ- ual designers. Most of the apparel produced in the Portland area is intended for department stores and specialty shops. "Sportswear" was the descriptive term under which most de- signers classified their creations. Apparel items are in- troduced through two showings per year. Two to five collec- tions are presented at each showing as the average for the Portland area. The majority of firms produce sportswear apparel for men, women and children although more apparel is pro- duced for women than for men or children. Apparel is usu- ally produced for persons in age brackets between 18 and 50 years at moderate prices. CHAPTER V MARKETING OF APPAREL ITEMS One of the characteristics of the Portland apparel industry which makes it unique is the wide variety in the number, size and type of apparel produced by the firms in this area. The marketing of apparel items also varies, con- sistently among firms making up this unparalleled market. This chapter will examine the marketing of apparel produced by these firms including promotion, distribution and over- all extent of the market. Promotion and Presentation The prime concern of the promotional director of an apparel firm is to utilize those forms of promotional tactics which will make the consumer buy the products he represents. To discover the what, who, how and why of pro— motion and presentation of apparel items in the Portland Apparel Market, one section of the questionnaire (Appendix B) was directed to promotional directors. Respondents were asked at what age level they pri- marily aim their promotional tactics. Responses indicated the majority of firms direct promotion to "young adults" and "middle age adults.“ The following summary presents the different types of audiences mentioned by promotional directors: 49 50 Number of Mentions Types of audience: Children 2 Pre-teen 3 Teenage 5 Young Adults 8 Middle Age Adults 7 Elderly Adults 1 One firm mentioned the majority of their advertis- ing or promotion is aimed at distributors, rather than con- sumers. Although this firm does not advertise nationally, the responsibility for local advertising is assumed by the firm and distributors jointly. There are many forms of promotion which may be uti- lized by individual firms in the advertisement of their products. Respondents to this section of the questionnaire (see Appendix B) specified the forms of promotion applied to the marketing of apparel by Portland firms. More firms use the "direct by mail" method than any other. In this approach, firms send pamphlets, posters and reports to re- tail distributors for dispersion to consumers. Several firms mail advertisements direct to the consumer. A sizable number of firms promote their products through media such as daily newspapers, consumer magazines, business publications, catalogs, exhibits and window displays (usually show-rooms). Television was utilized by one-fourth 51 of the sample whereas none advertised on network radio. The forms of promotion mentioned by participating firms are: Number of Mentions Forms of promotion: Direct by Mail Daily Newspapers U'IU'IQ Business Publications U1 Exhibits Consumer Magazines Catalogs Window Display (Dub-Dob Television Telephone Directory l-‘N Weekly Newspapers Industrial Films Electric Signs Outdoor Signs OOl—‘H Network Radio One-third of the firms in the Portland Apparel Mar- ket advertise in national magazines. The following chart indicates the number of firms advertising regularly in spe- cific national magazines: 52 Number of Mentions Magazines used for advertising: Seventeen Glamour Mademoiselle E912 Harper's Bazaar New Yorker an: Esguire Sports Illustrated Field and Stream Playboy Ebony Ingenue Town and Country 0 c> <3 I- H F4 I- H ed I- H on I» w Seventeen, Glamour and Mademoiselle are used most frequently for advertisement by firms in this sample. The majority of firms in the Portland Apparel Mar- ket do not utilize the services of professional advertising agencies. Only one firm indicated they advertise in conjunc- tion with another firm. In this case, the apparel firm com- bined advertisement with a textile mill. For use in fashion showings, two firms hire models. These trained models are obtained locally on a regular basis by both firms. 53 Promotional directors were asked to comment on the form of advertisement which they see as most beneficial to the apparel industry. One—half of the respondents mentioned television as most important because of "better coverage" and "consumer influence." Television was also considered as the most noteworthy trend for the future in apparel ad- vertising and was predicted to become more important as it becomes cheaper. A Other firms mentioned "newspapers“ and "magazines" as important to the promotion of apparel products. In nor- mal circumstances, advertisements serve as a vehicle to intro- duce new fashions, either in fashion magazines or in the gen- eral press. It has been found that apparel manufacturers usually advertise their products by these media on a seasonal basis.1 Portland firms also adhere to this principle. For a time, the Portland Apparel Market supported a trade association for the purpose of sponsoring seasonal market events held coincidentally with the opening of lines in California houses. This activity was discontinued in 1952 because firms felt at that time their area lacked the breadth and depth of lines to attract many retailers from outside the western states. Today firms in the Portland Apparel Market exhibit 1International Labour Office, Tripartite Technical Meeting for the Clothing Industry, Problems Arising from Fluctuations of Employment in the Clothing_Industry, Geneva, 1964), p. 107. 54 their goods either through private seasonal showings or they utilize road salesmen. These private showings are held at the convenience of each individual firm, either in their own showroom or at a hotel. Market Distribution All but one firm market their apparel products to areas outside the immediate Portland metropolitan area. Four firms distribute their apparel products within the "Pacific Northwest Region," including the states of Washing- ton, Oregon and northern California. All other firms ex- hibit and market their merchandise throughout the United States. Two firms also distribute products to foreign countries. Information was gathered from the firms participat- ing in this study about the distribution of merchandise to retail outlets (see Appendix B). Responses to items 20, 21 and 22 of Part I on the questionnaire indicated seven firms transport merchandise directly to retail outlets, three send to both retailers and wholesalers and two dis- tribute directly from factory to consumer. The types of retail outlets used by firms either directly or through wholesale distribution are as follows: 55 Number of Mentions Types of retail outlets: Specialty Shops 11 Department Stores 10 Chain Stores 5 Discount Houses 4 Variety Stores 2 Mail Order Houses 1 Other Types 1 None 1 Of the 12 participating firms, ten distribute prod- ucts to more than one retailer in any specific locality. Two limit their distribution through the sales of franchises to one outlet in an individual trading center. Two firms own their own retail outlets. One firm owns two outlets in shopping centers within the Portland area while the other firm operates a retail outlet at the factory. Extent of the Market To gain an overall understanding of the Portland Apparel Market, it was the intent of this study to discover the extent of the market as to the distribution practices and annual volume of sales. The distribution procedures of Portland firms were discussed in the preceding section of this chapter. Therefore, this section will concentrate 56 on the size and extent of the Portland Apparel Market in terms of the dollar amount of sales. It has been reported by the U.S. Bureau of the Cen— sus, the total value added by manufacturers of apparel in 2 This amount the Portland area was $25,031,000 in 1963. indicates the total dollar wholesale value in terms of sales for the Portland area which is divided into four counties: Clackamas, Multnomah and Washington counties in Oregon; and Clark county in the state of Washington (see Figure l). Multnomah County, encompassing Portland proper, contributed about 64 per cent of the total 25 million dollar volume in 1963.3 All manufacturers were willing to approximate their yearly wholesale volume, in terms of sales, for the year 1967. More firms have a wholesale volume in either the "$250-$00,000" range or the “$5,000,000 or over" range than any of the other ranges as shown in Table 1. Three of the firms in the ”$5,000,000 or over" range revealed their whole- sale volume was a great deal over the five million dollar mark. These firms operated other production plants in other states in addition to the Portland area. Annually apparel firms estimate expected sales for 2U.S. Bureau of the Census, Census of Manufacturers, 1963, Industry Statistics, Vol. II, Part IPTWashington, D.C.: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1966), p. 38-10. 31bido , p. 38-10 0 57 3»...ch 2: ho :aoSm .oonmEEoo Co EmEtmamo .w.: n. u a :3 a 8 8 a 0— 9 “4‘0“ ZOmXUS. uutnILHmOH ZHHIC‘I CD U14‘. ”(4.038 — “UPS! umUD u ZMOD u my” nah/am .."WE...,...H..H..»e./.._.u.... FZCCU low-3:: ZJOUZS In a sumuuxi x4 20...: 4:11: 308:0! 3001(1. 1:.— 1! 5.6.5:. 5533 . zopuz_zm....¢...... h. u... 5.13400 tor—tau Pacific Ocean zoemmo y». ., 1... Figure l 58 the following year. Firms indicated they base these esti- mates on the previous years' sales records. The majority of firms indicated they can calculate expected sales for any given year within 75 to 95 per cent accuracy. Two firms which use mathematical projections in addition to their pre- vious years' sales record claim to calculate expected sales within 95 to 100 per cent accuracy. Two smaller firms revealed their projections for expected sales for a given year are usually less than 25 per cent accurate. These firms operated much of the year on special orders and reorders, they do not keep any sizable inventory and therefore find it difficult to estimate expected sales. Smaller firms indicated a gain in wholesale volume each year but did not indicate the amount. To discover the increase in production and growth of the apparel market, respondents were asked about the per- centage of sales volume increase over the past five years in their firms. The following chart summarizes these re- sponses. The majority of firms have increased their volume, in terms of sales, 5-10 per cent over the past five years. Number of Mentions Percentage of increase in sales volume 1963-1968: Under 5 3 5-10 5 10-25 2 25-50 1 59 The designer, the manufacturer and the retailer must aim to predetermine what the public will accept; they must do so efficiently and sufficiently in advance to satisfy the demand when it comes. More than that they need to fore- see the duration and extent of the demand so there will not be an oversupply of goods on hand when the fashion changes. Portland apparel firms revealed they were able to keep up with the demand for their products; however, about one-half of the firms experience surplus in certain lines periodically. Three firms dispose of surplus items through special seasonal sales while others reduce the prices of their merchandise and sell it at factory outlets or to whole- salers. Summary Promotion of apparel items in the Portland Apparel Market is most often directed toward "young adults" and "mid- dle age adults" through mail advertisements, daily newspapers, business publications, exhibits and consumer magazines. Seventeen, Glamour and Mademoiselle are the national fashion magazines utilized most frequently for advertising. Promo- tional directors considered television as the most important trend for the future in apparel promotion. The marketing of apparel products produced in the 4Pauline Arnold and Percival White, Clothes and Cloth (New York: Holiday House, 1961), p. 158. 60 Portland Apparel Market takes place throughout the United States as well as the Pacific Northwest. Department stores and specialty shops are the types of retail outlets utilized for distribution by most manufacturers. One-third of the firms have a wholesale volume of $250-$00,000 while another one-third have a volume over $5,000,000. The majority of firms are able to calculate expected sales for any given year with a 75-95 per cent accuracy on the basis of the previous years' sales record. About one-half of the firms have increased their volume (wholesale) 5-10 per cent in the years 1963-1968. CHAPTER VI ANALYSIS OF THE MARKET There have been some notable changes in the apparel industry over the last decade: the rise of giant concerns; emergence of nationally advertised apparel brands; more diversification of products; decentralization of facilities; and increased automation.l Many of these changes have been primary factors in the growth and expansion of the Portland Apparel Market. Importance of expansion of apparel produc- tion in Oregon was brought out recently by Governor McCall of Oregon.2 He recognized the apparel industry as being one of the developing industries involved in Oregon's ef- fort to diversify from the lumber and paper industry. Information was obtained regarding the present trends and possible future developments of this regional market and efforts were made to discover its importance and sig- nificance locally, regionally and nationally as part of the United States apparel industry. 1Jeannette A. Jarnow and Beatrice Judelle, Inside the Fashion Business (New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965), p. 66. 2Stuart E. Jones, "Oregon's Many Faces," The Na- tional Geographic Magazine, Vol. 135, No. 1 (January, 1969), p. 81. 61 62 Present Trends and Future Developments Firms participating in this study supplied informa- tion concerning the recent trends and potential growth of the Portland Market as well as comments predictive of the future of the market. This knowledge is of importance in determining some general factors which would be influential in the growth or decline of the apparel industry in the Port- land area. Growth and Expansion To determine the recent growth of the Portland Ap- parel Market, manufacturers were asked about expansion which has taken place since 1960 (see Appendix B). Responses re- vealed that ten firms have expanded since 1960. Further questioning disclosed four firms have expanded in facilities or plant, personnel and diversification of products; one firm has only enlarged facilities or plant; three firms have expanded the number of their products; one firm enlarged facilities and increased the number of employees; and one firm has diversified products and increased the number of their personnel. Firms were also asked their plans for future expan- sion in the areas of plant or facilities, location, employ- ment size and diversification of products. Eight respond- ents revealed expansion plans to take place before 1973. Three firms plan to enlarge the present physical facilities while four firms have tentative plans to expand to new 63 locations. One firm mentioned California as a possibility for location of new plants. The availability of labor is a prime reason for expansion to semi rural areas. Reloca- tion would take advantage of a fresh labor supply and the close surveillance of the labor union. Diversification in the types of products produced is another type of expansion mentioned by seven firms in- cluded for study. These firms plan to diversify their prod— ucts so as to capture the business of customers of all ages. Firms engaged in a small range of specialized products men- tioned they are particularly vulnerable to changes of fash- ion or introduction of new products such as plastic and paper apparel products. Therefore, diversification was felt as a necessity for growth in production. Most firms did not anticipate any significant change in the number of personnel hired in the next five years. Improved professional management, more up-to-date produc- tion methods and increased automation will compensate for the expected increase in production and the status quo of employees. Firms mentioned it was difficult to find compe- tent skilled and unskilled labor. Firms planning expansion to new locations will hire personnel within that area for these new facilities. Predictions for the Future Garment making is usually city located, fashion directed, seasonal, fiercely competitive, and fraught with 64 financial risks.3 These trends, however, point out changes to take place in the industry which were reflected by Port- land manufacturers when asked, "What, in your opinion, is the future of the Pacific Northwest Apparel Market?” (see Appendix B). This question was directed toward executives, designers and promotional directors in each firm. Their comments are summarized in Table 7. Table 7. Number of responses of executives, designers and promotional directors to the question, "What, in your opinion, is the future of the Pacific North- west Apparel Market?" Number of Mentions Executives Designers P. Directors T Range of Responses N N N Excellent 2 1 l 4 Good Sportswear Only 3 1 l 5 All Apparel 3 2 3 8 Moderate 2 - 2 4 Fair 1 1 - 2 Limited 1 2 - 3 The above responses imply that the majority of ex- ecutives, designers and promotional directors consider the 3Alpha Latzke and Helen P. Hostetter, The Wide World of Clothing (New York: The Ronald Press Company, 1968), p. 222. 65 future of the Pacific Northwest including Portland as an apparel market, good for all apparel manufacturing. Execu- tives felt their market had a good to excellent future while promotional directors indicated a good to moderate future. Reasons given for the more than optimistic outlook by manu- facturers were: "population increase," "increase of other industries in the Portland area," "image as a sportswear leader,” "increase in leisure time for consumers resulting in a need for more casual wear," and "the Pacific Northwest as a natural trade center." Without a doubt, the production of apparel in the Pacific Northwest will continue to grow and be of significance to the national apparel industry. Significance and Importance of the Market Geographic location was mentioned as the most impor- tant single factor making production of apparel profitable in the Portland area. The West coast way of life is recog- nized as involved with planes and cars, and getting about quickly.4 The casual clothes produced there reflect this marvelous sense of freedom and support the recreational op- portunities presented by the mountains and the water. In addition to the geographic location, the availability of trained personnel and the retail consumers' market make Portland important as a local apparel market. 4Jessica Davies, Ready-Made Miracle (New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1967), p. 122. 66 To identify those factors which make the Portland Apparel Market distinctive as a regional market, manufac- turers were asked questions about the predominant design types and styles produced in the Portland area (see Appen— dix 8). Seven respondents stated "sportswear" or "casual wear" as the most important type of apparel manufactured in Portland. As a regional market, four firms did not feel one style was predominant. Those respondents pointed out that ”sportswear" is an all encompassing term which today covers everything from overcoats to bathing suits. It was their opinion that "active sportswear“ such as "swimwear," "pants" and "ski wear" were more appropriate terms to describe the products which have added to the prestige of the market. To further disclose the factors which influence the predominant production of sportswear, the following chart summarizes the opinions expressed by executives interviewed in this study: Number of Mentions Factors which influence designs: Climate and Terrain 4 National Buying Trends 3 Local Consumer Market 2 Available Resources 1 No Opinion 1 The climate and terrain of the Pacific Northwest create an atmosphere fitting for sports clothes and are 67 considered dominant as an influence on designs produced there. Almost equally significant are the national buying trends of consumers which make the Portland Apparel Market important as a contributor to the national apparel industry. More and more, consumers are buying clothes styled for an active physical life. Today's housewives wear pants for a do-it-yourself wall paper project; pants may also be worn when entertaining at night. Informal gatherings are taking the place of grand occasions.5 To further demonstrate the rising importance of sportswear and casual clothes, at the expense of more tradi- tional garments, Table 8 shows the shift in apparel produc- tion from 1939 to 1965.6 The per capita units of coats and suits for men manu- factured in 1965 were about two-thirds of the production in 1939. The volume of skirts for women and girls increased nine times over that period; blouse volume increased six times; and sweater volume increased about three times, in- dicating a significant rise in sportswear production. The number of dresses, coats and suits was less than half the 5Eve Merriam, Figleaf (Philadelphia: J. B. Lippin- cott Company, 1960), p. 25. 6"United States Consumer Apparel Expenditure, 1935- 39 to 1965,” World Wool Di est, XVII, No. 25 (December 8, 1966), p. 207. 68 Table 8. Men's, women's, misses' and juniors' wear produced by United States apparel firms during 1939 and 1965 in total units and per capita units Total Per Total Per (million Capita (million Capita Category units) (units) units) (units) Men's Wear: Separate trousers 40.3 0.89 139.0 2.42 Suits 24.7 0.55 22.4 0.39 Sweaters 22.1 0.46 40.2 0.70 Overcoats 5.6 0.13 04.4 0.08 Sport coats 1.0 0.02 12.5 0.22 Women's, Misses', Juniors' Wear: Dresses 194.4 3.88 183.7 2.59 Blouses 34.6 0.69 202.4 2.85 Skirts 13.0 0.26 118.9 1.67 Sweaters 28.5 0.52 89.7 1.26 Coats 17.4 0.35 25.5 0.36 Suits 4.2 0.08 11.7 0.17 69 quantity in 1965 as in 1939.7 Again these figures indicated consumers are purchasing more casual apparel for all occa- sions. Manufacturers were asked to comment on what they thought the Portland Apparel Market contributed to the United States apparel industry. The majority of respondents stated, "new designs in sportswear" and "quality" made the Portland Apparel Market an important asset to the total apparel in- dustry of the United States. Although most manufacturers agreed that Portland had not yet become a major apparel mar- ket such as Los Angeles or Dallas, it was their opinion that the Portland Apparel Market was important as a regional mar- ket and the growth potential was ”unlimited." Summary The majority of firms participating in this study have expanded in facilities or plants, personnel and produc- tion volume since 1960. Two-thirds of these firms also in- dicated plans for future expansion before 1973. Responses of executives, designers and promotional directors to the question, "What, in your opinion, is the future of the Pacific Northwest Apparel Market?" indicated the majority consider it "good“ for all types of apparel production. Geographic location was found to be the most significant factor making the production of apparel profitable 7Ibid., p. 211. 70 in the Portland area. The Portland Apparel Market is considered by firms within, to be distinctive locally, regionally and nationally for its sportswear contribution. Figures support a signif- icant rise in sportswear production throughout the United States since 1939 (see Table 8). Because of this growth, Portland firms consider their production of sportswear a noteworthy part of the national apparel industry. CHAPTER VII SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS Summary The apparel industry is becoming an important part of the Oregon economy and more specifically, the Portland area is gaining significance as a regional market. Much of the success of the Portland area as an apparel market can be attributed to its geographic location. Because of the year-around recreational facilities and relatively mild climate, sportswear manufacturers are producing clothing at an increasing rate. The growing importance of the North- west in the national apparel industry has prompted an in- vestigation of the production of apparel in the Portland area. This study is part of a larger departmental study on regional apparel markets presently in progress. Its purpose was to survey the production of apparel in Portland, examining the structure, organization and operation of ap- parel firms; production and distribution of apparel items; and promotion, marketing and extent of the market. Present trends and future predictions were analyzed to help deter— mine the significance and importance of the Portland Apparel Market. 71 72 A broad exploration of the various aspects of apparel production in the Portland area was conducted by interview- ing 12 executives, three designers, and seven promotional directors. A letter was sent to all apparel manufacturers in the Portland Apparel Market requesting their participa- tion. Telephone calls were made to each firm asking for an interview, and twelve firms agreed to participate and granted appointments for interviews. The data for investigation were gathered through factual questions pertaining to the present status of the Portland Apparel Market and were used to evaluate the po- tential growth and future development of the market. To discover the significance, importance and pos- sible future expansion, items allowing for free expression of respondents' future intentions, feelings, attitudes and preferences were used in the instrument. The questionnaire was segmented into five parts; three were directed toward executives, one to designers, and one was directed toward promotional directors. Background information was obtained to describe the physical structure and growth of the firms including develop- ment, size and location of firm facilities. Most of the participating firms were established during the period 1930- 1939. The principal reason given for establishment in the Portland area was the original owners had resided there. The majority of firms are owned by closed corporations. 73 Since questions concerning financial backing were not included in this interview schedule, this information was not elicited. Table 1 indicates manufacturing firms vary in size from very small to very large both in number and in yearly wholesale volume in terms of sales. One-third of the par- ticipating firms employ 20-49 persons while another third employ over 500 persons. More than one-half of the manufacturers indicated operation of only one production plant while larger firms operate up to eight plants. The five firms operating more than one production plant outside the Portland area also operate at least one plant within the Portland area. Of those firms owning other subsidiary plants, the majority of such plants were in other states usually in the Northeast or Southeast states. Most respondents had no desire to change location. Available labor and inexpensive operation costs were mentioned most often as the most important considera- tions influencing the location of apparel firms. All 12 firms are manufacturers and use the "inside shop" method of production. Two firms are jobbers in part. Five firms operate more than one production plant outside Portland, three of which produce a specific type of mer- chandise in each plant. The majority of manufacturers oper- ate on a 12 month basis. The East and the South were mentioned by 58 per cent of the manufacturers as the main source of materials utilized 74 in production. Other firms reported they obtain their mate- rials from the Pacific Northwest Region or the immediate Portland area. Two firms import materials from foreign countries. Trucking, railroad and air transportation are em- ployed most frequently to distribute merchandise produced by Portland manufacturers. Water methods of transportation are used by three of the larger firms. The personnel within any firm determine its success whether at the managerial level or the production level. Within the Portland Apparel Market, men usually hold execu- tive positions within the apparel firms including top man- agement positions, production management and promotion. An almost equal number of men and women hold positions as designers. Women hold more positions as skilled and unskilled workers in the actual production of apparel garments than do men. The more responsibility connected with a position held by an employee, the more education is necessary to at- tain that position with the firms in this sample. A college degree was the most desirable for an executive position while production managers, promotional directors and designers were usually required to have completed high school. A high school diploma was not considered necessary for positions with less responsibility such as skilled and unskilled la- borers. Most firms are not affiliated with any union in the I). lvlr. I‘ll I. f I!“ l'luv I ll 75 Portland Apparel Market. Those who are unionized are mem- bers of the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. While the majority of firms in the Portland Apparel Market do not separate designing into specific departments, five firms have a design department. Designing is usually done by local designers or the firm owners. However, in a few cases, designers are hired by the firms to work in New York. Most designers design under the firm name which in some cases is the name of the designer himself. Most design- ers felt their designs were affected by the price range de- sired by the individual firm for which they were employed. "Sportswear" was the descriptive term under which most designers classified their designs. Seasonal showings are usually given three or four months in advance of the prospective season by manufacturers in the Portland Apparel Market. The majority of designers work toward two showings per year with two to five collections shown at each. No one collection was considered as more important by the majority of firms. One-half of the designers reported less than five per cent of their collections as being new styles each year while another group revealed over 20 per cent were new styles. Buyers of apparel are more receptive to new styles from larger firms than smaller ones. Over ten per cent of all designing is directed {ill ‘I‘I‘illl‘liil 76 toward designs for woven and knit fabrics. These fabrics are used in the manufacturing of apparel within five firms as well as for sale outside the firms. Firms in the Portland Apparel Market pride themselves on producing a wide range of apparel items for men, women and children in all age brackets. One firm produces dresses, coats, layettes, diapers and miscellaneous items for child- ren only while two firms were producers of coats, jackets and shirts exclusively for men. A variety of women's, mis- ses' and juniors' wear was produced by four participating firms. Coats, dresses, separates (jackets and skirts), suits, blouses and shirts, underwear, swimwear and rainwear were reported as the major apparel items produced for persons up to and over 50 years of age. The majority of firms manu- facture apparel for women 18 to 50 years of age; however, the apparel items are worn by women of all ages. The majority of apparel items wholesale at $5-15 per item and retail at $15-25 per item. One-third of the, firms produce merchandise to retail in the $25-50 and over $50 price ranges. The promotional tactics utilized in the marketing of apparel items were designated by promotional directors. The "direct by mail" method, including pamphlets, reports, posters and flyers were sent by the majority of firms for promotion of their apparel items. Newspapers, consumer 77 exhibits, business publications were used to some extent for promotion and usually directed to "young adults" and ”middle age adults." Seventeen, Glamour and Mademoiselle are national fashion magazines used regularly for advertisement. Only one firm in the sample advertises in conjunction with other firms. Television was considered by Portland manufacturers as the most important trend for the future in apparel adver- tising because of "better coverage" and "consumer influence." Promotional directors indicated the amount of television advertising would increase as it becomes cheaper. A local trade association, sponsored by Portland apparel firms, was in existence until 1952, for the purpose of sponsoring seasonal market events. This activity was discontinued because firms felt at that time the Portland Apparel Market was not extensive enough to attract a sizable number of retailers from outside the Western states. Today these firms exhibit their merchandise locally through private showings. A majority of firms exhibit and market merchandise throughout the United States. Two firms also market prod- ucts to foreign countries. The majority of the firms chan- nel apparel products directly to retailers for distribution to consumers. Department stores add specialty shops are the main types of retail outlets distributing the products of the Portland Apparel Market. .. I’ll ‘ 'III I l 78 Census data were used to establish the overall ex- tent of the Portland Apparel Market. Manufacturers added a total wholesale value of $25,031,000 in 1963 to the na- tional apparel industry. Multnomah County, surrounding Portland proper, contributed 64 per cent of this volume. The majority of firms have an annual wholesale volume either in the "$250-$00,000" range or the "$5,000,000" or over range, while the average wholesale volume for all firms in the sam- ple was $500,000 per year. Expected sales for any given year can be predicted through calculations which are within a 75 to 95 per cent accuracy range according to the sample in this survey. Information received from the manufacturers indicates most firms have increased their volume, in terms of sales, 5-10 per cent over the past five years. Surplus, as a re- sult of over production, is disposed of through seasonal discount sales or sold at factory outlets. Knowledge obtained regarding the present trends and possible future developments of the regional market indicates the apparel industry is an important part of the Oregon econ- omy. Almost all firms have expanded since 1960 and most firms have tentative plans for expansion to take place be- fore l973. Plans for future expansion include such items as facilities or plant, location, and diversification of products. Because of improved professional management, more up-to-date production methods and increased automation, the need for additional labor was expected to be minor. 79 Executives and designers consider the future of the Pacific Northwest Apparel Market, including Portland, good to excellent. Promotional directors felt this market had a moderate to good future. Reasons given for a bright future were: "population increase," "increase of the industries in the Portland area," "image as a sportswear leader," "in— crease in leisure time for consumers resulting in a need for more casual wear," and "the Pacific Northwest is a nat- ural trade center." The production of active sportswear and casual clothes is considered to be of major importance in making Portland distinctive as a regional market. The climate and terrain of the Pacific Northwest create an atmosphere appropriate to the production of sportswear. The recreational facili- ties and opportunities presented in this area have helped to make a thriving consumer market for sportswear. Figures indicate the national buying trends of consumers are lean- ing toward the purchase of increasing amounts of sportswear and casual clothes. The manufacturers' opinions concerning the contri- bution of the Portland Apparel Market to the United States apparel industry were very favorable. Although Portland had not yet become a major regional market, respondents felt "new designs in sportswear" and distinctive "quality" made the Portland Apparel Market significant to the national in- dustry. Portland's potential for growth as a regional market 80 is judged "unlimited" by the manufacturers participating in this study. Recommendations A survey of the Portland Apparel Market was under- taken to study the development and current status of the market in regard to production, distribution and growth potential. may be made. 1. The following suggestions for further research A broader, more detailed study of the apparel industry in the Pacific Northwest, including Portland, Seattle and surrounding areas should be undertaken. More regional apparel markets throughout the United States should be conducted to broaden the existing knowledge of the apparel industry. Comparative studies of many regional markets would give a more complete analysis of the United States apparel industry and be relevant to educational, business and industrial person- nel involved in the apparel industry. This study can be used as a basis for similar future investigations more specifically with revisions of the questionnaire and interview techniques (see Appendix C). BIBLIOGRAPHY BIBLIOGRAPHY Books Ahmann, Stanley J., and Glock, Marvin D. Eyaluating Pupil Growth. Boston: Allyn and Bacon, Inc., 1967. Arnold, Pauline, and White, Percival. Clothes and Cloth. New York: Holiday House, 1961. Cain, Gertrude. The Americaijay of Designing, New York: Fairchild Publishing Company, 1948. Chambers, Bernice G. Fashion ngdamentals. New York: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1947. Crawford, M. D. C. The Ways of Fashion. New York: Fair- child Publishing Company, 1948. Davies, Jessica. Ready Mage Miracle. New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1967. Hall, Max (ed.). Made in New York. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1959. Jarnow, Jeannette A., and Judelle, Beatrice. Inside the Fashion Business. New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1965. Kerlinger, Fred N. Foundations of Behavioral Research. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1967. Latzke, Alpha, and Hostetter, Helen P. The Wide World of Clothing. New York: The Ronald Press Company, 1968. Levin, Phyllis Lee. Tpe Wheels of Fashion. New York: Doubleday and Company, 1965. Merriam, Eve. Figleaf. Philadelphia: J. P. Lippincott Company, 1965. Nystrom, Paul. Economics of Fashion. New York: The Ron- ald Press Company, 1928. Picken, Mary B. The Fashion Dictionary. New York: Funk and Wagnalls Company, 1957. 82 83 Roscho, Bernard. The Ra Race. New York: Funk and Wagnalls Company, Inc., 1963. Articles and Periodicals Bingham, Wheelock H. “Changing Apparel Industry," Conference Board Record, Vol. 2 (January, 1965), pp. 26-29. Goodman, Charles S. "The Location of Fashion Industries with Special Reference to the California Apparel Market," Michigan Business Studies, Vol. X, No. 2, Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 1959. "Few Large Corporations Today Have a History as Interesting and as Glamorous as Portland's," Greater Portland Commerce, Vol. 52, No. 18 (May, 1968), pp. 21-29. Fundaburk, Emma Lila. Characteristics, Problems and Poten- tials of Apparel Manufacturing in Neighboring Islands. Economic Research Center, University of Hawaii, 1966. Jones, Stuart B. “Oregon's Many Faces," The National Geo- graphic Magazine, Vol. 135, No. 1 (January, 1969), pp. 74-115. Lubersky, W. F. "Pacific Northwest, Portland and Seattle," Apparel Markets, 1948, pp. 171-73. "The Pacific Northwest Market," Apparel Manufacturer (Ap- parel Markets Edition), May, 1954, p. 26A. Public Documents U.S. Bureau of the Census. Census of Manufacturer§,,l963, Industry Statistics. Vol. II, Part I. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Government Printing Office, 1966. U.S. Bureau of the Census. Census of Manufacturers, 1963, Preliminary Repgrt, Area Series: Washipgton and Oregon. Vol. III. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Govern- ment Printing Office, 1966. U.S. Bureau of the Census. U.S. Census of the Populatipp; Characteristics of the Population, 1960. Vol. I, Part 39. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Government Print- ing Office, 1963.. 84 Reports "Geared for Action: Portland Chamber of Commerce 1968 Di- rectory and Report." Greater Portland Commerce (Special Edition). June, 1968. International Labour Office. Tripartite Technical Meeting for the Clothing Industry. Problems Arising from Fluctuations of Employment in the Clothing Industry. Geneva, 1964. Portland Chamber of Commerce, Industrial Development Depart- ment. Classified List of Textile and Apparel Prod- ucts ipjthe Portland Area. Portland, Oregon: Cham- ber of Commerce, Publisher, 1966. Portland Chamber of Commerce, Research and Statistics Sec- tion, Industrial Development Department. Living Conditions_in Portlapgyl966-l967. Portland, Oregon: Chamber of Commerce, Publisher, 1967. Unpublished Material Adams, Margaret. "Public Relations Activities as a Contrib- uting Factor to the Growth and Development of the Dallas Fashion Market." Unpublished Master's thesis, Department of Home Economics, The University of Texas, 1958. Bourne, Judith Mayton. "An Analysis of the Development of the Fashion Industry in Alabama, 1949-1962." Un- published Master's thesis, Auburn University, Auburn, Alabama, 1962. Desjardins, Andrea Ruth. "The Production and Distribution of Women's Knit Outerwear and Lingerie by Firms in the Reading-Berks County, Pennsylvania Market Area." Unpublished Master's problem, Michigan State Univer- sity, 1967. Gano, Lowell R. "The Women's and Misses' Apparel Industry in Dallas, Texas." Unpublished Master's thesis, Southern Methodist University, Dallas, 1949. Golly, Jeanne Marie. "A Survey of the Present Status of the Dallas Women's Apparel Market." Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1966. 85 Griffin, Tira W. "A Survey of Selected Regional Apparel Markets Producing Women's and Misses' Apparel." Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State Univer- sity, 1949. Gross, Blanche. "The Awakening of an Industry. Recent Trends in the Dress Manufacturing Industry in St. Louis." Unpublished Master's thesis, School of Business, Columbia University, 1943. Hersker, Barry Jay. "The Women's Apparel Manufacturing In- dustry in Florida." Unpublished Doctoral disserta- tion, University of Florida, 1962. Johnson, Elton Davis. "Women's Outerwear Industry in Texas." Unpublished Doctoral dissertation, The University of Texas, Austin, 1954. Kilbourne, Helen Margaret. "A Study of a Selected Group of Custom Design Firms within the Michigan Apparel Industry." Unpublished Master's problem, Michigan State University, 1966. Mason, Mary Martell. "A Survey of the Present Status of the Michigan Apparel Industry." Unpublished Master's thesis, Michigan State University, 1968. Nugent, Elinor Roth. "The Production and Distribution of Apparel and Related Products in the Regional Markets within the National Apparel Industry." Michigan State University Agricultural Experiment Station Project No. 758. Research in Progress. Stauber, Elaine C. "A Study of the Creative Methods of American Designers and Their Contributions to the Fashion Apparel." Unpublished Master's problem, Michigan State University, 1966. APPENDIX A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION Ill-'11 MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY, East Lansing, Michigan 48823 College of Home Economics Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts Home Economics Building Portland is rapidly gaining importance as a leading apparel market and many who are interested in the future development of the apparel industry would like to know more about the Portland Apparel Market and its potential for expansion. Because your firm holds an important place in the Portland Apparel Market, we would like to request your participation in this study. This study of the Portland Apparel Market is part of a larger project on regional apparel markets under Dr. Elinor Nugent, a member of the research and teaching staff in the Depart- ment of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts, College of Home Economics, Michigan State University. Being a native of the Pacific Northwest and a graduate student in Textiles and Clothing under Dr. Nugent, I am undertaking this study of the Portland Apparel Market as part of my graduate program. I am planning to be in the Portland Area September 4-l4th to collect data. I would like to have a conference with you sometime during this period at your convenience. May I call your office for an appointment when I arrive in Portland? The information gathered in this study may be of value to educational, business, and industrial personnel involved in the apparel industry. If you are interested in a summary of the results of this study, I will be glad to make it available to you upon request. Thank you for your consideration. I am looking forward to talking to you in September. Sincerely, (Miss) Joanne Ekenes (Mrs.) Elinor Nugent Associate Professor 87 APPENDIX B QUESTIONNAIRE 4'. (all Interview Schedule for Portland Apparel Market Survey Part I The fact that Portland is growing rapidly and gaining impor- tance in the apparel industry has prompted a study of the Portland Apparel Market. Because of your influence and re- sponsibility as a leader in the apparel market, I feel you could contribute valuable information about the market. I would very much appreciate your cooperation and efforts in this research. I would like to begin by asking some general questions about your firm. 1. Name of firm 2. Date this firm was established 3. Where was this firm originally established? 4. Present location of head offices 5. Into which of the following categories does your firm fit? Manufacturer Wholesaler Jobber Other (please specify) Contractor 6. If manufacturer, which method of production is used? ____In-side Shop ____gobber-Contractor 7. How would you describe the ownership of this firm? Individual Open Corporation Partnership Other (please specify) Closed Corporation 8. How many production plants does this firm operate? 9. Where are these plants located? Immediate Portland Area Other States (please Within Oregon specify) Within Pacific Northwest Other Countries (please specify) 89 10. ll. 12. 13. 14. 15. 90 Is a specific type of merchandise produced in each plant? Yes No Do your production plants operate on a 12 month basis or on a seasonal basis? 12 month Seasonal Which Months? Which Seasons? What is the approximate number of employees working in the following positions by this firm? Mpg Executive Officers Production Managers Promotional Directors Designers Skilled Laborers Unskilled Laborers Women What is the approximate rate of turnover in personnel each year? Under 5% 5-10% 10-25% Over 25% Other (please specify) Do you feel there is a major reason for this turnover? Yes No If so, what? Are your employees affiliated with a union? No If so, which ones? Yes 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 91 What educational level do you require of your employees in the following positions? Check appropriate category. Below H.S. H.S. College Grad. S. Executive Officers Production Managers Promotion Directors Designers Skilled Laborers Unskilled Laborers What type of transportation facilities does your firm utilize for merchandise? Truck Water Railroad Other (please specify) Air Do you feel your firm has access to adequate transpor- tation facilities? Yes No If not, what improvement in the present transportation facilities would be beneficial to your firm? Which distribution channel does your firm utilize? Factory to wholesaler Other (please specify) Factory to retailer Combination of both In what type(s) of retail outlets is your merchandise sold? Department Stores Mail Order Houses Chain Stores Variety Stores Specialty Shops Other (please specify) Discount Stores Do you distribute to more than one retailer in a trading area? Yes No 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 92 Do you own any of your own retail outlets? Yes No If so, how many? Where? In what price range does the most of your merchandise retail per piece? Under $5 55-15 $15-25 $25-50 Over $50 In what price range does most of your merchandise wholesale per piece? Under $5 $5-15 $15-25 $25-50 Over $50 Would you be willing to approximate your yearly whole- sale volume, in terms of sales? Under $100,000 $500,000-1 Million $100-250,000 $1 - 5 Million $250-$00,000 $5 Million or Over What percentage has your yearly volume increased over the last 5 years, in terms of sales? Under 5% 5-10% 10-25% 25-50% Over 50% Don't Know 93 Part II Now I would like to get more specific and ask you some ques- tions about the merchandise you produce. 1. What types of apparel does your firm produce? Women- Infants- Accessories Girls Men-Boys Children Miscellaneous ___Coats ___Suits Two Piece Three Piece Dresses Separates Skirts Jackets ___Blouses, Shirts ___pnderclothes 2. Where do you obtain the materials for your products? .___Portland Only ___Other States (please ___State of Oregon specify) ___Pacific Northwest Region ___Other Regions (please ___Foreign Countries (please specify) specify) 3. For what population does your firm produce apparel prod- ucts? Check apprOpriate categories. Children 2: O 5 (D :5 Ages Men Under 5 years 5-12 years 12-17 years 17-21 years 21-30 years 30-50 years Over 50 years 94 Do you produce seasonal lines? If yes: Which seasonal line is most important in terms of sales? To what do you attribute this? Yes No If no: Do you generally produce the same articles year around? Yes No Are most of your lines worn year around? Yes No Do you specialize in any particular designs or styles? Yes No If yes: For what designs are you known? Do you make notable changes yearly in these designs? Yes No Seasonally? Yes No If no: Do you produce what is considered fashionable? Yes No Do you change your entire line yearly? Yes No Seasonally? Yes No To what areas do you distribute your apparel products? Portland Only Other Regions (please State of Oregon All United States specify) Other Countries (please Pacific Northwest Region specify) Are you able to keep up with the demand for your products? Yes No If yes: Do you experience surplus in certain lines periodically? Yes No How do you dispose of any surplus you might have? If no: To what do you attribute this? 95 Within what percentage can you calculate expected sales for a given year? Less than 25% 25-50% 50-75% 75-95% 95% or Better How do you predict expected sales for a given year? Previous years' Actual Sales Other (please specify) 96 Part III Now I would like to ask a few questions on the size and loca- tion of your firm. 1. When this firm was established, what would you say was the principal reason for establishment in the Portland area? Has your firm expanded since 1960? Yes No If so, please specify the type of change. Facilities or plant Employment Diversification of products Other (please specify) Have the owners of the firm ever considered changing locations? Yes No If yes, where and why? Do you contemplate expansion within the next 5 years? Yes No If yes: If no: Do you plan to enlarge Do you feel the size of your present facilities? operation is large enough Yes No as is? Yes No Do you plan to expand to Do you think you may expand a new location? sometime after the next 5 Yes No years? (after 1973) Yes No Where? What will be the main type of production there? Will you diversify to other products? Yes No 97 Would you rate the following considerations in deciding upon the site for a textile or apparel firm according to their importance, using a scale, 1 meaning ”Unimpor- tant” and 5 meaning "Very Important”? Very Unimportant Important Important Available Advertising Media 1 2 3 4 5 Available Labor 1 2 3 4 5 Available Resources 1 2 3 4 5 Inexpensive Operation Costs 1 2 3 4 5 Tax Structure 1 2 3 4 5 Transportation Facilities 1 2 3 4 5 Retail Market 1 2 3 4 5 Wholesale Market 1 2 3 4 5 I would like to close this interview with a few general ques- tions about the Portland Apparel Market. 1. What do you think the Portland Apparel Market contrib- utes to the United States fashion industry? How? What, in your opinion, is the future growth potential of the Portland Market? Do you think Portland will ever become a major apparel market such as Los Angeles or Dallas? Yes No If yes: If no: What do you think will be What do you feel is the major contributing factors maximum potential of the to this growth? Portland Market in relation to other apparel markets? 98 Are there predominant design characteristics of the ap- parel manufactured in the Portland Market which make it distinctive? Do you feel that one of these characteristics is of more importance than the others and has added to the prestige of the Portland Market? Yes No If yes, in what way is it more important? What factors influence the designs produced in the Port- land Apparel Market? In your opinion, what single factor do you consider as most important in making the production of apparel prof— itable in the Portland Area? Geographic location Inexpensive operation costs Availability of trained personnel Retail Market Wholesale Market Transportation facilities Other (please specify) In your opinion, what is the future of the Pacific North- west Apparel Market? 99 Part IV Because of your influence and responsibility as a designer, I would like to ask you some questions concerning your work which I feel will add to this research on the Portland Ap- parel Market . 1. What type of apparel do you design? ___Sportswear ___Other (please specify) ___Lingerie ‘___Daytime Wear ___Evening Wear 2. Do you design under your own name, the name of the firm, or both? Own Name Firm Name Both Other (please specify) 3. For what type of retail outlet do you generally design? Department Stores Chain Stores Specialty Shops Mail Order Houses Other (please specify) 4. How many collections do you show yearly? 5. Do you have a special show for the press? Yes No 6. Do you have seasonal showings? Yes No If yes: If no: Which one is most impor- Do you have other methods tant? of showing your collections? Why? Yes No What are they? 7. How many collections or lines do you design yearly? 1 only 2-5 5-10 Over 10‘ Other (please specify) 8. What per cent of your collection each year represents new styles? Under 5% 5-10% 10-20% Over 20% 100 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 100 What per cent of your new styles do you consider adap- tations of previous styles? Under 1% 1-2% 3-5% 5-10% 10-20% Over 20% Do you find buyers more receptive to the new fashions each year? Yes No If yes: If no: Why? Do you think this is because you are noted for a partic- ular design or style which Do you think your new has always been a good items each year sell bet- seller? ___Yes ___No ter on the retail market than the classics? Would you prefer to change ___ye5 ___No your entire collection each year? Yes No What is the average number of designs which are discard- ed in a given collection? Under 5% 5-15% 15-25% 25-50% Over 50% Are your designs copied on the mass market? Yes No If yes: If no: Do you wish to prevent How do you prevent this? copying of your designs? Yes No Can you prevent this in any way? Yes No Do you also design woven or knit fabrics? Yes No If so, what percentage of your total designing is in the form of fabric? Under 5% 5-10% Over 10% Is the design department a separate department within this firm? Yes No In your opinion, what does the future hold for American designers and fashion apparel? In your opinion, what is the future of the Pacific Northwest Apparel Market? 101 Part V Because of your influence and responsibility as a promotional director, I would like to ask you some questions concerning your work which I feel will add to this research on the Port- land Apparel Market. 1. 4. 5. What audience do you primarily aim for in your promotion- al tactics? Children Pre-Teen Teenage Young Adults Middle Age Adults Elderly Adults Other (please specify) What forms of promotion does this firm utilize? Direct by Mail Exhibits (Fashion shows) Daily Newspapers Window Display Consumer Magazines Electric Signs Outdoor Signs Industrial Films Business Publications Weekly Newspapers Catalogs Telephone Directory Network Radio Television Do you advertise in national magazines? Yes No If so, which of the following do you advertise in regu- larly? Vogue Town and Country Harper's Bazaar Glamour New Yorker Mademoiselle Ebony Other (please specify) Seventeen Ingenue Do you use an advertising agency? Yes No Do you ever advertise in conjunction with other firms? Yes No If yes: If no: For what purpose? Are all the products used in your advertising made by this firm? (Such as Are these firms other than in magazine ads) clothing firms? ___Yes ___Yes ___No ___No If so, what type? 102 Do you hire your own staff of models for advertising your products? Yes No If so, are they obtained locally? Yes No Do you have your own training program? Yes No What form of advertising do you see as the most bene- ficial in the apparel industry? Why? Do you foresee any new trends in advertising which will have an important impact on the apparel industry? In your Opinion, what is the future of the Pacific Northwest Apparel Market? APPENDIX C SUGGESTIONS 104 The following suggestions, derived from this study, may assist investigators using the interview technique in similar future research: 1. The interviewer should undertake some preliminary investigation to become acquainted with the re- gional apparel market prior to data collection. A personal contact, influential in the apparel market to be investigated, would be valuable in giving suggestions and recommendations for the proposed research. The interviewer should make clear his intentions, the purpose of the study, the future use of the study and its importance to participating manu- facturers. Ample time should be permitted by the interviewer for data collection, allowing for unforeseen events and changes in manufacturers' schedules. A professional approach should be used by the interviewer, assuring participants of their anonymity, if requested. The questionnaire for this study obtained most of the desired information. However, the following suggestions are made for future use of this questionnaire in similar exploratory research: 1. More "funnel" type of open-ended questions (see Appendix B, Part II, questions 4, 5, 7) should be utilized to gain respondents' true attitudes. The format of the questionnaire should be changed to include no more than two distinct topics per page for easier analysis of data. Questions relating to price ranges should be revised to be realistic for the market under investigation (see Appendix B, Part I, questions 23, 24, 25). ’ Questions directed to designers concerning lines, collections and showings need to include more realistic percentages in future studies (see Appendix B, Part IV, questions 7, 8, 9, ll). 1!.) 3(1)} 11’. Pl‘l' It." A’A’l‘lfii ) ‘A (I ‘19 HICHIGQN STRTE UNIV. LIBRQRIES I lllllllllllllllll II 9 312 30110 IIIIIIIIHHIHIIIHI 1 34 75