CONSUMER SATESFACWQHS AME“ DlSSATESFACTfiONS WETH MEN'S DUMBLEE P‘RESS SLACKS (3&0 SHERTS Ykofls {We Hm Emma- asf M. A. MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY Aria W. Karl 1966 LIBRARY I Michigan State I I IIIIIIII II “III II IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII I University 312 239 310 110_84906 ‘ .EJUN 0.61999 ABSTRACT CONSUMER SATISFACTIONS AND DISSATISFACTIONS WITH MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS by Arla W. Karl Durable press finishing of garments and piece goods is the most important development in the textile industry within the last decade. Numerous textile and industrial journals have cited results of labora- tory studies relating to the effectiveness of this ”no-iron" finish. The purpose of this study was to investigate consumers' satis- factions or dissatisfactions with men's durable press slacks and shirts. Specific objectives were: (1) to determine the over—all level of con- sumer satisfaction or dissatisfaction with men's durable press slacks and shirts under conditions of normal wear and care; (2) to assess which components, i.e. appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care are most important in determining satisfaction or dissatis- faction with these garments; and (3) to relate individual components of satisfaction to the general components of satisfaction. It is hypothesized that over-all level of satisfaction is posi- tively related to satisfaction with appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care, and that consumers are satisfied with the over-all retention of fabric smoothness, and intended creases or pleats after repeated wearings and cleanings. A structured questionnaire was distributed to a random sample Arla W. Karl of qualified married student couples at Michigan State University. Qualified respondents owned two or more pairs of durable press slacks and/or shirts which had been cleaned a minimum of three times. The questionnaire was to be filled out by both husband and wife and was based on their best- and least-liked of the two types of garments. Frequency of response tables were used to analyze the data. Results obtained from the statistical analysis are applicable only to similar populations. The conclusions were: (1) the majority of reSpondents rated all four garments, best- and least-liked men's durable press slacks and shirts, average or above-average on over-all level of satisfaction; (2) the over-all level of satisfaction appeared to be related to appearance, comfort, fit, durability and ease of care for the best-liked durable press slacks and shirts but not for the least-liked of the two types of garments at the above average level of satisfaction. It should be noted that only a very small per cent of respondents indicated below average satisfaction on over-all level of satisfaction or on satisfaction with all of the major components. It was concluded that the over-all level of satisfaction was more related to all of the major components of satisfaction at the above average level for the best-liked durable press slacks and shirts than for the least-liked garments; (3) no relationships could be drawn from the data regarding a correlation between the minor components of satisfaction, e.g., the number of times a garment had been worn and cleaned, with the major components, e.g., appearance, comfort, fit, durability and ease Arla W. Karl of care; and (4) most consumers were satisfied with the over-all fabric smoothness of the durable press slacks and shirts after cleaning. CONSUMER SATISFACTIONS AND DISSATISFACTIONS WITH MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS By Arla W. Karl A THESIS Submitted to Michigan State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts 1966 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation and extend recognition to the following people who contributed to the development of this study: Mrs. Kathryn Riedel for encouragement and guidance throughout the study; Dr. Barbara Densmore, Pennsylvania State University, College of Home Economics, for her help in devising the questionnaire; Dr. Mary Gephart and Mrs. Stephania Winkler for their constructive suggestions and criticism; Dr. Frances Magrabi who developed the computer program used in analyzing the data; Dr. T. V. Hanurav for his assistance in planning the statistical analysis; and the faculty and students who participated in the pre- test of the questionnaire. Appreciation is also extended to the writer's husband for his encouragement and aid throughout the course of this study and the entire graduate program. ii TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION . Focus of Study . Definitions II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE . . . . . . . . . . . . Processes Used for Durable Press Finishing . Fibers and Fiber Blends Used in Durable Press Fabrics Problems Encountered in Durable Press Garments and Processing Standards for Durable Press Garments New Developments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . III. METHODS AND PROCEDURES . Basis of Questionnaire . Pretest Selection of Sample Statistical Analysis IV. ANALYSIS OF DATA . Introduction . Background Information . Over-all Level of Satisfaction . Relationship of Over-all Level of Satisfaction to Appearance . iii Page l4 17 22 24 25 25 25 26 27 29 29 30 31 33 CHAPTER Page Comfort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Durability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Ease of Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 V. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS, LIMITATIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Conclusions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Limitations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 APPENDIX A - Interview Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 APPENDIX B - Frequency of Response Tables . . . . . . . . . . . 82 BIBLIOGRAPHY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 iv Table II. III. IV. VI. VII. VIII. XI. LIST OF TABLES Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents on Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Appearance for Men's Best- liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Appearance for Men's Least- liked Durable Press Slacks . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Appearance for Men's Best- liked Durable Press Shirts . ReSpondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Appearance for Men's Least- liked Durable Press Shirts . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Comfort for Men's Best- 1iked Durable Press Slacks . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Comfort for Men's Least- liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Comfort for Men's Best- liked Durable Press Shirts . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satis- faction and Comfort for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Shirts . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of SatisfactionanuiFit for Men's Best-liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of SatisfactionauuiFit for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Slacks . Page 32 35 36 37 38 4O 41 42 43 46 47 Table XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Fit for Men's Best-liked Durable Press Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Fit for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Shirts . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Durability for Men's Best- liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . . . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Durability for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Durability for Men's Best-liked Durable Press Shirts Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Durability for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Shirts . . . . . . Respondents' Choices of Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Ease of Care for Men's Best-liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Ease of Care for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Slacks . . . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Ease of Care for Men's Best-liked Durable Press Shirts . . . . . . Respondents' Choices on Over-all Level of Satisfaction and Ease of Care for Men's Least-liked Durable Press Shirts . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents on Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Wives on Occupation . Frequency of Response of Husbands on Occupation vi Page 48 49 51 52 53 54 57 58 59 6O 83 83 83 Table XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. XXXVI. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents on the Number of Durable Press Slacks Owned . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents on the Number of Durable Press Shirts Owned . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Fiber Content of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Color of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts When Purchased . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Type of Store Where Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts were Purchased Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Approximate Price Paid for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Number of Times the Durable Press Slacks and Shirts had been Worn . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Total Number of Times Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts were Cleaned . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Appearance of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Comfort with Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Fit for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts vii Page 84 85 86 86 87 87 88 88 89 89 9O 9O Table XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. XL. XLI. XLII. XLIII. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. XLVII. XLVIII. Page Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Durability for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . 91 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Level of Satisfaction with Ease of Care for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . 91 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Appearance of Durable Press Slacks and Shirts when Purchased . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Color of Durable Press Slacks and Shirts after Wear and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Appearance of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts After a Day's Wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Fit in Lengthwise Direction of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts when Purchased . . . . . . . 93 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Fit in Crosswise Direction of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts when Purchased . . . . . . . 94 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Fit of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts After Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Stiffness of Fabric of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts when Purchased . . . . . . . . . . 95 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Stiffness of Fabric of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts after Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . 95 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Warmth of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts During Wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Length of Time Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts Worn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 viii Table XLIX. LI. LII. LIII. LIV. LV. LVI. LVII. LVIII. LIX. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Seam Splitting in Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Fabric Splitting in Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Fabric Abrasion for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Areas which Frayed or Showed Wear in Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Method of Cleaning for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to when Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts are Removed from an Automatic Washing Machine Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Drying Method Used for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to the Number of Minutes Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts were Dried in the Dryer. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to when Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts are Removed from the Dryer . . . . . . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to How Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts are Handled after Removal from the Dryer . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Appearance of Seams on Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts after Cleaning . . Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Appearance of Creases after Cleaning of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . ix Page 97 97 98 98 99 99 100 100 101 101 102 102 Table Page LXI. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Over-all Fabric Appearance of Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts after Cleaning . . . . . . . 103 LXII. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Pressing Required for Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 LXIII. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Areas which Require Pressing on Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 LXIV. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Removal of Oil Based Stains on Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 LXV. Frequency of Response of Ninety Respondents to Removal of Beverage Stains on Men's Durable Press Slacks and Shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 izpart. Imam ’U (U Am CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Durable press finishing of garments and piece goods is the most important development in the textile industry within the last decade. Numerous textile and industrial journals have cited results of labora- tory studies relating to the effectiveness of this "no-iron" finish. Little research has been conducted, however, to ascertain the perform- ance of durable press garments under conditions of normal wear and care. The consumer's desire for the "no-iron” concept has been long recognized. Hull (35) states, that consumers want and demand easy care characteristics of little or no ironing . . . and resistance to wrinkling in a growing list of apparel and household products is evidenced by the rapid expansion in the production of easy care, woven fabrics since 1955. The impetus for the development of the durable press process came from the Koret Company of California, a garment manufacturer. Koret requested their supplier of 100 per cent cotton dress goods to apply a wash-and-wear finish to the fabric, but to dry it at a lower temperature to minimize the curing or cross-linking of the resin finish. After cutting and sewing the fabric, Koret found an oven heating process would complete the curing or cross-linking of the finish, and this would result in a garment whose pleats and over-all garment shape were durable to many launderings and tumble dryings (29). is Shich 52318 (6 :=:' chem :provec' :rccess IO ro- ALI cre. wea' dur the 10:1 2 The durable press process differs from a wash-and-wear process, in which the resin finish is cured while the fabric is in the flat state (60). A durable press process also requires higher concentration of chemicals, higher curing temperatures, new curing techniques, and improved garment fabrication (68). Koret was granted a patent for the deferred cure durable press process in 1961. Durable press is a term . . . that describes the ability of a garment to keep its shape- retaining properties throughout its life. This means sharp creases, flat seams, and smooth appearance of the fabric after wearing, washing, and drying.‘ In addition the wear life of the durable press garment must be equal to or better than that of the garment it replaces. The wear life is necessary to have long lasting consumer acceptance and satisfaction (42). The first 100 per cent cotton durable press men's slacks were placed on the market in February, 1964. Consumer demand for this "no-iron" innovation was considerable. However, it was soon evident that the early durable press slacks had some drawbacks. Excessive strength loss and lowered abrasion resistance were the major problems. Such losses were caused by the high concentration of cross-linking resins required and the prolonged curing of the fabric at high tempera- tures. The losses were so extensive that the slacks could not meet minimum wear standards (71). These slacks were just the beginning of the breakthrough for durable press (81). Durable press has become a multi-billion dollar business in less than two years as a result of extensive research. 3 In 1965, textile finishers prepared and sensitized about 300 million yards of fabric for durable press markets, and the fore- cast for 1966 indicates that at least 500 million yards will be processed. Durable press today accounts for about 95% of the trouser and slack markets (about 170 million pairs were processed since 1965) and is rapidly saturating men's shirting markets, and moving into many outerwear and domestic markets (71). Despite the vast research that has been done in developing durable press technology, little has been done to assess the ultimate serviceability and satisfactory performance during use of durable press garments. Graham (51) of the Sears Roebuck and Company testing labora- tories, said, It is hard to simulate in the lab the stresses a garment suffers when a boy of twelve slides into home plate or falls on the gym floor. But if you are selling durable press to millions of consumers, it's imperative to know. I. FOCUS OF THE STUDY The primary aim of this study was to determine the general level of consumer satisfaction with men's durable press slacks and shirts under conditions of normal wear and care. Such information would supplement existing industrial laboratory studies. The specific assumptions, objectives and hypotheses guiding this study are as follows: Assumptions: 1. A questionnaire is an effective method of collecting data. 2. Durable press processes change fabric performance properties. 3. Consumers desire garments which require little or no ironing. Objectives: 1. To determine the over-all level of consumer satisfaction or dissatisfaction with men's durable press slacks and shirts under conditions of normal wear and care. 2. To assess which components, i.e., appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care are most important in determining satisfaction or dissatisfaction with men's durable press slacks and shirts. 3. To relate individual components of satisfaction to the general components of satisfaction, i.e., appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care. Hypotheses: l. Over-all satisfaction is positively related to satis- faction with appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care. 2. Consumers are satisfied with the over-all retention of fabric smoothness, and intended creases or pleats after repeated wearings and launderings. II. DEFINITIONS Catalyst. A substance which accelerates a chemical reaction (78). Cellulosic fibers. Those textile fibers that come from natural plant sources; seed, bast, leaf and fruit fibers (20). Cross-linking resin or agent. A chemical which reacts with the chemical structure of a fiber so as to form indissoluble bonds. It gives the fabric a 'memory" for the cured form whether this form be flat or shaped (14). Cure. The use of heat to fix chemicals permanently in a fabric. This process stabilizes and induces cross-linking of the chemicals (78). Durable press. The term can refer to a chemical process, finish, fabric, or garment. A durable press finish gives a fabric or garment the ability to retain its over-all smoothness, press, and shape for the life of the fabric or garment. Fabrics of 100 per cent thermoplastic fiber composition do not require a chemical finish to achieve durable press qualities. These fabrics attain over-all smoothness and a durable pressed shape through the use of special pressing equipment. Fabric "memory." The property of a fabric to retain its original form (78). Findings. The supplementary fabrics used in making a garment-- pocketing, waistband fabric, zipper tape, lining and interlining, etc. In durable press fabrics it is important that these be treated with durable press finishes in the same manner as the shell fabric (78). High wet modulus rayon. A rayon which differs in molecular structure from conventional rayon. This type of rayon has a lower degree of water absorption, resists caustic solutions, has higher wet strength, and high elastic recovery (20). 6 Hot head press. A newly developed type of pressing machine designed for pressing durable press garments. It generates greater heat than former presses (450 to 500 degrees Fahrenheit) and pressure of up to six tons. The press is equipped with automatic precision con- trols (78). Impregnation. The process of treating a fabric with a chemical compound (78). Polyester fibers. A long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 per cent by weight of an ester of dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid (20). Resin. This term includes various chemical compounds used in finishing fabrics. The resins are polymerized on the fabric or yarn to give so-called "permanent finishes". The purpose of the finish is to impart crease resistance, dimensional stability, better hand or crease retention (48). Sensitized. A fabric which has been treated with a cross— linking chemical, dried, but not cured. The fabric remains in the sensitized condition until the proper degree of heat is applied (78). Thermoplastic fibers. The property some fibers have of becoming plastic under heat (20). Thermosetting resin. A chemical compound which can be per- manently set or cured through the use of heat (78). Wash-and-wear. Fabrics which may be washed and worn without ironing because of the shrink- and wrinkle-resistant finishes applied to the fabric (20). CHAPTER II REVIEW OF LITERATURE The new durable press garments are an outgrowth of efforts by fabric manufacturers, garment fabricators, and retailers to improve existing wash-and-wear finishes (38). Durable press, optimistically called permanent press, often is claimed in advertisements to never need ironing. Such a claim does not allow for variables in fibers, finishes, construction methods, and pressing. Neither does it account for differences in temperatures and length of curing. Nevertheless, after making 25,000 evaluations of durable press garments from 42 manufacturers, the Good Housekeeping Institute states that consumers can expect excellent performance from Durable Press if the right fiber, fabric and finish combinations are present, and if proper techniques are used in laundering (88). The following topics relating to durable press processes and garments will be included in the review of literature: industrial processes, fibers and fiber blends used, problems encountered, standards which have evolved, and new developments. I. PROCESSES USED FOR DURABLE PRESS FINISHING The ”miracle" concept of durable press is achieved by modifica- tions of earlier wash-and-wear processes such as higher concentrations of cross-linking chemicals, new curing sequences and techniques, and improved garment fabrication (68). Distinctions between brands may be a subtle variation in one of the chemical bath formulations or there 8 9 may be a major change such as an alteration in fiber or fiber blend composition (68). All durable press processes can be classified into four general categories. These are post-cure, pre-cure, re-cure or double-cure, and no-cure (78). The terms post-cure, delayed-cure, and deferred-cure refer to the same process. The fabric is impregnated with a cross-linking com- pound or resin which reacts only with the cellulosic fiber component (33). The cellulose constituent for most garments is cotton or high wet modulus rayon fibers. Cellulosic fibers are combined with polyester, nylon, or acrylic fibers (78). Minimal or no curing of the resin occurs since the fabric impregnated with cross-linking resin is dried at a low temperature. After the "sensitized" fabric is cut, sewn into a garment, and pressed into the desired shape, the garment is cross-linked or cured in a special curing oven which reaches temperatures of 300 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (76). The fabric then has a "memory" for its new sewn and pressed shape. Only the cellulosic fibers are affected by this cross-linking resin. The other component used, which is always a thermoplastic fiber, is formed into the desired shape during pressing and oven curing (3,32,71). The second classification of durable press processes is the pre- cure process. After impregnating thermoplastic and cellulosic fibers with a cross-linking resin, the fabric is cured while in the flat state. The fabric is cut and sewn, then exposed to high temperatures and pres- sures to mold the fabric into the desired creased and contoured garment 10 shape. This process is achieved with a "hot head press" equipped with automatic precision controls which deliver heat of about 500 degrees Fahrenheit and pressures up to six tons. Thermoplastic fibers are con- sequently softened and reshaped (57). No oven curing is necessary after hot head pressing (8). Both the post-cure and pre-cure processes involve chemicals reacting with the cellulosic fiber components; however, the processes differ. A post-cured garment is shaped primarily by the cross-linking of the cellulosic fiber component during the oven curing process. A pre-cured garment is shaped by the hot head presses which mold the fibers into the garment shape; the over-all fabric smoothness, however, depends on the cross-linking of cellulosic fibers. Re-cure or double-cure processing is the third method of achieving durable press qualities in fabrics and garments. Although this process utilizes thermoplastic and cellulosic fiber blends as do the post- and pre-cure methods, the difference is that a special cross- linking reactant and catalyst are required. Eighty-five per cent or more of the cross-linking takes place while the fabric is in the flat state because of this modification in chemicals (69,78). After fabrica- tion the garments are pressed on hot head presses. The heat and steam from pressing break the cross-links formed in the flat fabric; the cross-links are then reformed into a new garment form. A fourth approach to durable press is the no-cure or fiber blend and fabric construction procedure, which relies on the inherent thermoplastic properties of the fibers being used and does not depend 11 on chemical treatments. Polyesters are generally blended with acrylic or nylon fibers; thus, both components are thermoplastic. Durable press and shape in no-cure garments is attained through hot-head pressing which forms the 100 per cent thermoplastic fibers into the desired shape. Careful cooling of the garment assures the maintenance of this set shape. The disadvantage of this process is that the 100 per cent thermoplastic fiber contents are more expensive initially than thermoplastic- cellulosic blends (69,78). Comparing the different processes, Claude Lee (42), of DuPont, states, . . we have studied and worked with them all. At this time, we can honestly say that we have seen satisfactory garments made by all the processes that meet the durable press standards. The pre-cure and post-cure are the most common of the basic methods used. There has been a good deal of controversy as to which method is better. Doniger (34) of MacGregor-Doniger's states that his firm concludes that both methods should be used depending on the fabric chosen. The MacGregor-Doniger Company determined that the use of pre- cured fabrics followed by hot-head pressing and then post-curing gave better results than pre-cured fabrics plus hot—head pressing alone. Consequently, MacGregor-Doniger is oven curing all their outer-wear garments, whether made of post-cured or pre-cured fabric. This manu- facturer claims that oven-curing is necessary to obtain a superior level of shape retention and smoothness desired in outer-wear garments. 12 Each finish has its place. . . . Pre-cure is almost perfect for permanent press shirts and it is equally apparent that post-cure is the right route to a pleated skirt. It is also very clear that from a purely theoretical point of view, anything having a shape other than flat should be post-cured. It could even be contended that shirts should be post-cured to set the hems flat and thus prevent them from ballooning (32). Lee (42) indicates that ”with the polyester/cotton fabrics the pre—cure process has been a contender in durable press.” Some of the reasons are that: (1) in the high percentage blends there is enough thermoplastic fiber to be heat set to give flat seams and durable creases, (2) the pre-cured fabrics are washed after curing by the finishers and thus there is no change in hand when the consumer launders the garment, (3) there are fewer changes in manufacturing required and less equipment involved, and (4) the garments made from pre-cured fabrics can usually be altered successfully (42). One disadvantage is that the pre-cure process requires higher temperatures to cure heavier weight fabrics than lighter weight fabrics, thus decreasing fiber strength during curing. As a result the post-cure route has been most widely used for heavier weight fabrics such as those used in men's slacks. The "McCall's Sportswear Merchandiser" (45) states that at present most manufacturers indicate a preference for post-cured slacks and pre-cured shirts. However, all garment manufacturers do not agree which process produces the most satisfactory slacks or shirts (45,46). The standards maintained during durable press processing are more in- fluential in producing satisfactory products than the processes them- selves. 13 Several recent durable press processes deserve attention; they are the irradiation process, and advances in durable press cotton pro- cessing. The durable press electronic irradiation process developed by Deering Milliken, Inc., is being marketed under the trademark 'Visa.' (62,74,32). The purpose of irradiation is to achieve higher standards of durable press in post-cured 65% Dacron poly- ester and 35% cotton fabrics (32). Irradiation permits easy release of soil and oily stains with normal home laundry procedures--a feature previously unobtainable in poly- ester and cotton fabrics. The need for cross-linking agents may be reduced or eliminated; thus, this process would increase abrasion re- sistance of the fabric (62). Many new developments have occurred in all-cotton durable press fabrics since the first all-cotton durable press slacks in 1964 (10). The National Cotton Council, as well as many manufacturers, finishers, and chemical producers, has devoted considerable effort to developing new fabric constructions, processes, and chemicals. Among the signifi- cant developments are the following: (1) use of lower curing tempera- tures, (2) addition of surface polymers to the fibers, (3) differential cross-linking of the fabric, (4) mercerization or micro-stretching to increase the initial strength of the fabric (78,39), (5) wet-cure pro- Cessing, (6) monomer grafting and deposition, which builds polymers into fabric structure, (7) double—cure processing, and (8) new cross- linking chemicals, which increase crease-angle and wash- wear ratings of the fabric (9,10). Durable press garments are manufactured by four basic processes: 14 the post—cure, pre-cure, re-cure or double-cure, and no-cure processes. Each process is capable of producing high quality durable press garments if high standards are maintained at every level of production. Durable press finishes, processes, and fabrics are being continually improved; this not only up-grades existing durable press garments, but also makes possible new end uses. II. FIBERS AND FIBER BLENDS USED IN DURABLE PRESS FABRICS Selecting a fabric for treatment with a durable press finish is a complex enigma. Many of the properties which greatly affect durable press performance such as fabric weight, yarn size, construction, fabric style, color, pattern, etc. are really not choices at all for most garment manufacturers because garment styling and fashion greatly limit the allowable variations in these properties (32). One hundred per cent cotton was used in the first durable press garments because the durable press procedure depended on thermosetting resins being fixed in cellulosic fibers. For early durable press fabrics, the sole laboratory test was a tensile strength test. Cotton rated high in tensile strength, but in later wear tests, cotton was (found to have very poor abrasion resistance (54). The second development in durable press fabrics was to blend nylon fibers with the cotton fibers. Blending improved the abrasion resistance over all-cotton durable press fabrics, but lessened the tensile and tear strength, and reduced the dimensional stability (54). 15 A third advance was achieved by blending polyester fibers with cellulosic fibers. These polyester fibers improved the hand, weight, appearance, strength, abrasion resistance, and dimensional stability of the fabric (21). However, difficulties were encountered in dyeing the polyester fibers (70). New fibers and fiber blends, too numerous to mention, are cur- rently being used on an experimental basis for durable press fabrics and garments (42,32,76,84,78). Polyester and cellulosic fiber blends and 100 per cent cotton fabrics predominate over all the fiber blends and fibers used in dur- able press. Polyester and cotton blends containing at least 50 per cent polyester have proven to be superior to blends containing a lower percentage of polyester in styling, performance, and cost demands for garments now treated with durable press finishes (32). Laboratory tests by both Milliken, Inc., and DuPont (42) in- dicate that the 65 per cent polyester and 35 per cent cotton blend is superior to other blends and blend levels. Laboratory tests show that the abrasion resistance, tear and grab strength, after chemical treatment and curing are signif- icantly higher than in the lower percentage blends (42). Specifically, wear tests by Milliken, Inc. Show the 65 per cent poly- ester and 35 per cent cotton blend wears about 35 per cent longer than the 50/50 blend (62). Polyester and Avril high wet modulus rayon must be considered an important blend for durable press fabrics. The first polyester and Avril rayon blends were tested in 1964; this blend has become more l6 prominent, especially in the men's slack field (84). The advantages of a 50 per cent polyester and 50 per cent Avril rayon fiber blend over a 50 per cent polyester and 50 per cent cotton fiber blend include: (1) a more uniform appearance, (2) the deletion of the necessity to mercerize the fabric before dyeing, (3) softer initial hand, and (4) higher abrasion resistance (84). All cotton durable press products have advantages over the polyester and cellulosic fiber blend fabrics. Cotton durable press is completely insensitive to temperature; therefore, the necessity of Special handling in either washing or drying is eliminated. Durable press cottons can be successfully dried by either machine or line drying. Polyester and cotton blend fabrics, in contrast, must be tumble-dried for a satisfactory appearance (71,19,9). White cotton durable press fabrics do not develop a dingy or grayish color after laundering as do polyester and cellulosic fiber blends. Consumer opinions have shown a preference for the higher absorbency and softer hand of all-cotton durable press fabrics. Durable press cottons are more opaque, a characteristic preferred by some consumers. Yarn-dyed products and prints are easier to produce in all-cotton fabrics. In addition, cutting, sewing, and pressing all-cotton fabrics present few 'processing problems, which aids in reducing the cost of the end pro- duct (9). All-cotton durable press fabric is not an inferior product. Most of the garments carried in all-cotton have top wash-wear ratings for crease retention and appearance after laundering (10). It must be stated that although polyester and cellulosic fiber l7 blends and 100 per cent cotton durable press fabrics predominate over the multitude of possible fibers and fiber blends, the selection of a fiber blend depends on the end use for which the fabric is intended. However, the polyester and cotton fiber blends are the only fabrics which demonstrate the clear cut superiority over the complete range of fabric weights for all end use areas (68,42). Future technological changes may produce new fibers and fiber blends which are as satisfactory or superior to the fibers and blends presently being used. III. PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED IN DURABLE PRESS GARMENTS AND PROCESSING Regardless of the durable press procedure used, there are advantages, disadvantages, and problems. The problems evident in durable press garments include: fabric deterioration or strength loss, over-all fabric discoloration, fibrillation, stains, alterations, seam puckering, pressing, odor, shrinkage, pilling, stiffening of hand, and spontaneous curing. Through technical research and experience some of the problems have been solved, but some have only been controlled and continue to give difficulties (30). Fabric deterioration or strength loss is the main problem in durable press garments (2). Cross-linking, which takes place only in the cellulosic fibers, greatly weakens the tensile strength and abrasion resistance of the fibers. Deterioration is caused by the high concentration of cross-linking chemicals needed and the high temperatures 18 used during the curing process. One solution to the problem is to blend the cellulosic fibers with other fibers, such as nylon or polyester, which are unaffected by the chemicals (67). Over-all fabric discoloration is caused by sublimation or migra- tion of dyestuffs, loss of color due to light, laundering or ozone. Discoloration is presenting a challenge to industry (l4,30,34,68). Optical brighteners are being added to white durable press fabrics to alleviate the yellowing problem. Fibrillation or lightening of the fabric, particularly along the sharp creases (pocket edges, zipper flys, collars, and cuffs), during wear and laundering, remains an obstacle in providing satisfactory garments. Oil-based stains are a major problem in durable press garments of polyester and cellulosic fiber blends. Home laundering does not effectively remove the stains from the fabric. The oil-staining prob- lem of polyesters is due to the smooth surface of the fiber which per- mits the fiber to "wick," and the oleophilic nature of the polyester. Several new finishes and laundry products are being developed to alleviate the problem (7). Garment alterations present a serious problem. Lengthening or ' enlarging a garment is impossible because the creases originally pressed in the garment cannot be eliminated (68). Comments from J. C. Penney Co., Hug-Tab Corp., Pellon Corp., and J. P. Stevens and Company indi- cate the problem may be overcome in the near future. 19 Jay (34) suggests the possible use of . . . chemical Sprays to break down the finish to allow re-sewing and other chemicals for refinishing, table-top ovens in stores for re-curing and garments shipped with unfinished lengths to the re- tailer to be finished in the store--either by use of the small ovens or by the retailer finishing the item or length at the point of sale and having the consumer press, after washing, only that part of the garment that has been adjusted. A method of altering developed by the Hug-Tab Corporation in- volves the use of a press-on tape. The tape is said to be easy to apply and stabilizes the pre-set crease as well as the new cuff crease (67). A chemical spray developed by J. P. Stevens and Co. may be used by retailers or in the home for removing and/or imparting creases in ' requires no change in existing apparel. The new spray, ”Alter-Ease,‘ technology for durable press. The consumer can set cuffs, hems, and creases with an ordinary iron even after the garment has been worn and laundered (5,11). Some limitations to the use of "Alter-Ease” are: the fabrics must be at least part cellulosic; the original stitching marks of the seams remain if a garment is altered; and there is a ”frosted" look to the fabric due especially to abrasion wear along such areas as cuff folds when a cuff is lengthened (49). Pellon Corporation has developed a non-woven material which can impart cuffs to previously uncuffed durable press trousers. A web applied to paper and transferred with a hot iron to the trouser cuff like a decal gives a permanent crease to the fabric (25). Seam puckering or poor seam appearance warrants considerable research. New sewing techniques, adjustment of fabric and thread 20 tension, use of fewer stitches per inch, use of mercerized cotton or synthetic sewing thread, employment of compatible linings, interlinings, and pocket fabrics which are similar in shrinkage and durability, are all important in improving seam appearance (4,5,47,57). Pressing is a critical step in the durable press process. Any wrinkles pressed into a garment remain for the life of the garment. The thermosetting resins which are sometimes used in durable press processing give off an unpleasant odor (60). The unpleasant odor can be overcome by laundering the completed, cured garment; how- ever, laundering is not practical because of the added expense to the manufacturer. Some cross-linking resins which have been developed do not have an unpleasant odor; two of the compounds which fulfill this requirement are an imidazoline compound and a sulfone compound (60). Shrinkage during the curing or heat-setting process is a defi- nite problem. Some manufacturers have overcome the problem by cutting the garment pieces one-half size larger for a specific size. Many fabric blends exhibit a pilling problem. The fibers tend to ”tease” out of the fabric in areas which receive abrasion. Fiber ends form tiny fiber balls on the surface, resulting in an unsightly appearance. These pills cling to the fabric surface and do not break off easily. Stiffening of the fabric hand is sometimes a problem that occurs after laundering, due to the finishes and curing procedures used (2). Softeners have been developed which, when added to durable press resin treatments for 100 per cent cotton, polyester and cellulosic fiber 21 blends, or acrylic and cellulosic fiber blends, impart a soft hand and excellent drapeability to the fabric (65). Spontaneous curing is a problem encountered in the deferred cure process. The sensitized fibers, while in storage, partially cross- link before the garment is cut, sewn, and pressed into the desired shape. Spontaneous curing, as well as the odor problem, can be solved by the use of imidazoline or sulfone compounds (60,67,30). However, in a paper presented to the AATCC in May, 1966, Alexander (2) indicated that spontaneous curing still occurs. Some improvements being made by several manufacturers to over- come durable press problems include: (1) improved uniformity of cotton and polyester fibers in preparation for spinning the yarns; (2) re- duced defects in the differential tensions in weaving; (3) increased control of mercerization, bleaching, and heat treatment of the fabric in preparation for dyeing; (4) improved temperature control and uni- formity in dyeing; (5) increased penetration of the dye in the cotton and polyester fiber components; (6) improved uniformity of the dyed fabrics to achieve even pick-up of the chemical finishes; (7) improved uniformity in drying and curing the chemical finish; (8) greater con- trol of fabrics in storage prior to cutting; (9) improved cutting techniques to eliminate the introduction of wrinkles into the fabric; (10) careful selection of findings to avoid differential shrinkage and consequent seam puckering when the garment is laundered; and (11) more uniformity in pressing techniques (29). The problems facing durable press manufacturers have been 9.ng A ,.u. . TI [HE C ,- II‘ v» u a T— A 22 numerous; the main problems are fabric deterioration, discoloration, fibrillation, and alteration. Some of these difficulties have been solved, some minimized, while others remain definite problems. The majority of the problems have been reduced, however, as evidenced by the current domination of durable press in certain consumer markets. IV. STANDARDS FOR DURABLE PRESS GARMENTS Acceptable consumer standards for all types of fabrics and end uses must be developed for durable press garments. Standards must be maintained at all levels of production, from the fiber producer to the garment finisher (4,77). Stavrakas (75), manager of soft goods testing for J. C. Penney Company, Inc., emphasized the importance of standards when he said, The key to the continued success of permanent press is eternal vigilence. Each segment of the industry must be willing to not only continue its present concentrated efforts in achieving total performance, but the industry as a whole must expand this effort. The consumer is thrilled and surprised by the performance of the first entries into the field. We are now at the point where the pipelines are about filled, the novelty will soon be over, and madam consumer will begin to look more critically at these new products. There is nothing vague about standards in the textile industry. The textile testing scientist can assign a rating which is a specific ‘number or per cent based on tests universally accepted by the industry (78). Different standards are essential for each fabric and end use. One area of utmost importance is the use of compatible thread, linings, interlinings, and slide fasteners for durable press garments. D These components must exhibit the same shrinkage, color—retention, ,. '19-. SC II-v u,- Pls n: TIs 15¢ .\. . ~ pl. .H.‘ 23 "sew-ability,” stiffness, and tensile strength in addition to being a suitable weight for the durable press fabric with which they are used. This compatibility is necessary to achieve a particular styling result, to add life and stability to parts of the garment, and to achieve satisfactory appearance (81). Standards are difficult to establish since there is no single test which can be given to a durable press fabric or garment to deter- mine the tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance, dimen- sional stability, fabric smoothness, and crease retention of any durable press fabric or garment (75). However, one group, The Subcommittee on Simulated End Use of the AATCC Research Committee has been working to establish a standard abrasion resistance test for fabric using an automatic washer and dryer. The goal of this group's work has been to find a test method which can be used to determine the approximate wear life of durable press gar- ments with reasonable correlation among various testing laboratories (89). It is important to both the consumer and the manufacturer that standards be set-up and maintained so that the total performance of the textile end product is adequate for the end use. These standards in- ‘ clude retention of color, creases or pleats, dimensional stability, absence of seam puckering and wrinkles, and durability of finish in both home and commercial laundry procedures (28). 24 V. NEW DEVELOPMENTS Durable press, first introduced in men's slacks, has now ex- panded into many diverse end uses. Men's shirts, both woven and knit (23,84); women's sportswear, dresses, and undergarments (44); children's clothing; and rainwear (53) are among the ready-to-wear garments being finished by durable press processes. Pre-cured durable press piece goods in polyester and cotton blends are available both in lightweight fabrics and heavier fabrics such as corduroy (79). Kodel polyester and cotton blend durable press fabrics are being used for draperies and bedspreads (37). Sheets and pillowcases in polyester and cotton, and polyester and Avril rayon blends, are other new durable press household items (84). New fibers and fiber blends being investigated which show promise for durable press include Fiber 60, an acetylated rayon, Avril rayon and wool blends (23), and wool blends with acrylic or polyester fibers (22). These new fibers and fiber blends will extend the range of end uses of durable press. Durable press has grown to include numerous end uses since the advent of men's durable press slacks; it has brought a whole new dimension to the soft goods industry (81). The number of end uses for durable press will certainly multiply as research in the field con- tinues. CHAPTER III METHODS AND PROCEDURES I. BASIS OF QUESTIONNAIRE A structured questionnaire was devised for gaining the desired information on consumer satisfactions and dissatisfactions with the best-liked and least-liked men's durable press slacks and shirts owned and used by the respondents. The questionnaire was designed to be answered by the couples answering as one; the responses of each couple, therefore, were reported as one frequency in the analysis of data section, and in the tables in Appendix B. The basic format of the questionnaire was established with the assistance of an academic advisory committee1 and Dr. Barbara Densmore. Previous consumer satisfaction surveys were also used as references (15, 16, 17). II. PRETEST A pretested questionnaire was used as the basis for the final form of the questionnaire. Members of the Michigan State University texmiles and clothing staff plus eight student couples were asked to 1The committee members were: Mrs. Kathryn Riedel, Dr. Mary GEphart, and Mrs. Stephania Winkler. 2 . Dr. Barbara Densmore was a summer staff member from Pennsylvania State University College of Home Economics. 25 {13E thl t. .k‘ Ea HE UQ (‘1‘ 26 fill out the questionnaire. Each respondent was requested to designate which questions were unclear, to give suggestions for revision of the questionnaire, and to indicate the length of time required to complete the questionnaire. The suggestions were incorporated into the final form of the questionnaire which appears in Appendix A. III. SELECTION OF SAMPLE The population consisted of couples living in Spartan Village, a married student housing complex at Michigan State University in East Lansing, Michigan. It was decided that male students who wear washable slacks and shirts daily, and their wives who care for the garments, together would be able to make valid judgements on these durable press garments. A statistical method was used to assure a random sampling of the population. Numbered buildings in Spartan Village were selected by using a table of random numbers. Each building contained eight to twelve apartment units. The residents of every apartment in the buildings selected were considered as part of the sample. The interviewer attempted to contact apartment residents several times. It was impossible to contact some of the residents; in addition, some of the apartments were un-rented. There were 222 apartments in the selected buildings. One hundred eighty-eight couples were per- sonally contacted and instructed as to the purpose of the study, and the procedure for completing the questionnaire. Questionnaires were left with those qualified couples expressing willingness to participate 27 in this study, and later picked up by the interviewer at a time con- venient to the respondents. Qualified reSpondents were defined as those who owned two or more pairs of durable press slacks and/or shirts which had been cleaned a minimum of three times. One hundred and one couples out of 188 con- tacted were qualified to be included in this study. Five of the distributed questionnaires could not be secured, and six of the re- turned questionnaires were too incomplete to use; thus, 90 question- naires were used for the basis of this study. Fifty-one couples were qualified to answer the questions pertaining to both durable press slacks and shirts, 33 were qualified to fill out only the columns per- taining to durable press slacks, and six couples were qualified to evaluate only durable press shirts. IV. STATISTICAL ANALYSIS Statistical analysis of this study is based on frequency of response tables which were computed on a Control Data Corporation 3600 computer. Frequency of response tables were primarily used to gain background information about the best-liked and least-liked durable press slacks and shirts. This statistical method was also used to relate appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care to the over-all level of satisfaction with the best- and least-liked slacks and shirts. Selection of this form of analysis was based on advice from Dr. T. V. Hanurav, a consultant in the Michigan State University 28 statistics department, and on information concerning analysis forms gleaned from similar studies. Originally chi square values were computed for the correlation tables in the analysis of data section; chi square values were also computed for relationships between some of the minor components of satisfaction and the major components of satisfaction--appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care. However, it was found that more than 20 per cent of the cells contained frequencies of less than five; this made any apparently significant chi square values invalid. The tables used in the analysis of data, thus, show only the relationships between over-all level of satisfaction and the major components of satisfaction, but the tables do not indicate if the relationships were significant. Questions appear in the questionnaire which are not included in the analysis of data. The questions were originally asked to aid in analyzing the potential relationships. However, it was found that the responses of the majority of the respondents on certain questions were too similar to be of value in the analysis of the data. The complete frequency of response for the questions asked, nevertheless, appear in Appendix B. Free response questions were included in the questionnaire (see Appendix A, p. 70). The analysis of these questions was deleted be- cause the answers given merely repeated what the respondent had in- dicated in the structured portion of the questionnaire. CCU lie ,4 r'h ‘- '5: CHAPTER IV ANALYSIS OF DATA I. INTRODUCTION The reasons a respondent might give for satisfaction or dis- satisfaction with a particular garment are potentially numerous. Five major components of satisfaction, i.e., appearance, fit, comfort, durability, and ease of care, were selected as criteria for evaluating men's durable press slacks and shirts (15,16,17). It was hypothesized that these components directly relate to the over-all level of garment satisfaction. In addition, there are minor components of satisfaction. For example, the number of times a garment had been worn and cleaned could influence a respondent's ratings on over-all level of satisfac- tion, appearance, and ease of care. The purpose of this data analysis is to show what relationships, if any, exist between the major components of satisfaction and over-all level of garment satisfaction. A secondary objective is to determine if minor components of satisfaction, such as color retention, ease of stain removal, etc., influence the major components of satisfaction. These objectives will be achieved using frequency of response tables. The tables used will appear in this section, and the complete frequency of reSponse for each question asked the respondents in the questionnaire will be found in Appendix B. 29 30 II. BACKGROUND INFORMATION The majority of respondents in this sample were 18 to 25 years old. Seventy-six per cent of the men were full time students; 12 per cent were part time students. Thirty-four per cent of the women were full time homemakers; 57 per cent were students or employed outside the home in addition to being homemakers. (For the complete frequencies of reSponse, see Appendix B, Tables XXII, XXIII, XXIV, p. 83). These categories indicate that the majority of respondents were in the same age group, and the majority of male respondents were in the same occupation. The majority of the respondents answering the questions on durable press slacks and shirts based their answers on the use of two to four pairs of slacks, and/or two or three shirts, all of which had been cleaned a minimum of three times. Of the total sample of 90 responding couples,9l per cent were qualified to answer the questions pertaining to durable press slacks, while 51 per cent were qualified pertaining only to durable press shirts. Some of the qualified respondents did not answer every question. Others failed to follow directions on specific questions and filled in only one column, thus not comparing their best-liked durable press slacks or shirt with their least-liked garment in the same category. Failure to compare best- and least~liked garments may have been due to the fact that respondents felt they did not have a best- and least-liked durable press garment. The ratings of best- and least-liked an h“! H‘- 31 were not defined in this study and were personal value judgements of the reSpondents. In addition, it is possible that the best- and least- liked garments in each category were the same brands, similar colors, and had been worn and cleaned the same number of times. As a result, the no response category is quite large in some of the frequency of response tables (see Appendix B). The complete frequency of response tables concerning the number of durable press slacks and shirts owned and worn by the respondents appear in Appendix B, Tables XXV, XXVI, pp. 84 and 85. III. OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION The over-all level of satisfaction is a personal value judgement based on the respondent's experience with the garments owned. Conse- quently two different respondents would not necessarily rate identical garments equally. The respondents were therefore asked to rate their durable press slacks and/or shirts in one of three categories--above average, average, or below average satisfaction. The over-all level of satisfaction with the four garments, best— and least-liked durable press slacks and shirts, can be seen in Table I, which shows that 91 per cent of the respondents indicated average or above average satisfaction with their best-liked slacks. Fifty-nine per cent of the respondents indicated average or above average satisfaction with their least-liked slacks. For durable press shirts, 65 per cent of the respondents rated their best-liked shirts average or above average on over-all level of satisfaction, whereas 32 ooH om 00H om 00H om OOH om HauOH 3 mm mm om R 9N a m 3833 oz m e .3 an S a Z S 8296 96.2 3 km S 2 me .3 8 3 smegma. w A N N 3 2 o o 8396 some ucmo mmcommou ucmo uncommon ucmo oncoamou ucmo uncommon onHumq AAo >ocmsvmum mocmsvmum hocoavoum hocmsuwum cmxflauommoq cmxwfi-ummm pmxfifiuummoq cmxwfinummm mHmHmm mMomd AAo zo mHzmnzommmm MHMZHZ mo mmzommmm ho wozmbommm H mam<fi 33 49 per cent rated their least-liked shirt average or above average on over—all level of satisfaction. The questions pertaining to over-all level of satisfaction and level of satisfaction with appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care can be found in Appendix A, Questions 10-15, pp. 75 and 76. IV. RELATIONSHIP OF OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION TO APPEARANCE The total frequency of response for the relationship between over-all level of satisfaction and appearance, comfort, fit, durability, and ease of care, varies from 90 due to the fact that many respondents failed to answer every question. The per cents used in the analysis of data are based on the frequency of response for each specific table. In analyzing the data gleaned from the tables, the above average level of satisfaction was used to determine apparent relationships between over-all level of satisfaction and the major components of satisfaction. There appeared to be a correlation between the respondents rating on over-all level of satisfaction and the ratings given on appearance for men's best-liked durable press slacks and shirts. Seventy-six per cent of those responding rated their best-liked durable press slacks above average on over-all level of satisfaction and appearance. A total of 99% of those responding rated their best-liked slacks average or above. Only nine per cent rated their least-liked durable press slacks above average on both components--over-all level of satisfaction and appearance. However, 77% of those responding rated their least-liked slacks average or above on the same components. 34 Fifty-seven per cent of those reSponding ranked their best-liked durable press shirts above average on both over-all level of satisfac- tion and appearance; however, 95% rated the same garments average or above on the same variables. Of those responding on the questions relating to over-all level of satisfaction and appearance for men's least-liked shirts, eight per cent considered these shirts above average in both aspects. Seventy- eight per cent, nevertheless, rated their least-liked durable press shirts average or above average on the same aspects. The difference between the number of times the best-liked and least-liked durable press slacks and shirts had been cleaned was not appreciable (see Appendix A, Question 9, p. 74; Appendix B, Table XXXII, p. 88). No relationship appeared to exist between the number of times the garments had been cleaned and the rating given on the over-all level of satisfaction and appearance. The color of the garments after wear and cleaning did not in- fluence either the respondents' rating of the garments on the over-all level of satisfactions or appearance. The majority of those responding indicated no change or only a slight change in color had taken place after wear and cleaning (see Appendix A, Question 17, p. 76; Appendix B, ‘Table XL, p. 92). This data indicates that the respondents' rating on appear- ance was related to the over-all level of satisfaction (at the above average level of satisfaction) with the best-liked durable 45 VI. RELATIONSHIP OF OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION TO FIT There appeared to be a correlation between fit and the over—all level of satisfaction at the above average level of satisfaction for the best-liked durable press slacks and shirts, but not for the least- liked garments of the population surveyed. Sixty-six per cent of [hUSc reSponding rated their best-liked slacks above average in both aspects, 100% rated them average or above average. Fifty-seven per cent con- sidered their best-liked durable press shirts above average on over-all level of satisfaction and fit, whereas 96% rated the same garments average or above average. Only eight per cent rated their least-liked slacks above average, however 77% rated their least-liked slacks average or above. For the best-liked durable press shirts, 12% rated them above average on both components--over-all level of satisfaction and fit; 86%, nevertheless, did rate these same garments average or above average on the same variables. Since more respondents' rated their best-liked durable press garments above average on over-all level of satisfaction and fit, fit appears to be an important contributor as to whether or not a consumei will be satisfied with a particular garment. Shrinkage may be a reason for this correlation, as respondents expressed that more of their least-liked durable press garments shrank after cleaning than did their best-liked garments (see Appendix A, Question 21, p. 77; Appendix B. Table XLIV, p. 94). 50 VII. RELATIONSHIP OF OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION TO DURABILITY There seemed to be a stronger relationship between over-all level of satisfaction and durability for the best-liked durable press garments at the above average of satisfaction than for the leaSt-liked durable press garments in each category. Sixty-four per cent con- sidered their best-liked slacks above average on over-all level of satisfaction and durability, but 99% rated them average or above. Fifty-four per cent evaluated their best-liked durable press shirts as above average, as compared to 99% who rated them average or above. For the least-liked durable press slacks, only ten per cent rated their garments above average on over-all level of satisfaction and durability although 74% rated them average or above average. A small per cent of the respondents, four per cent, rated their least- liked shirts above average even though 87% rated the same durable press garment average or above average. Respondents were asked to judge how long the durable press garments wore in contrast to similar garments without a durable press finish (see Appendix A, Question 25, p. 78). The majority of re- spondents who felt qualified to make judgements, reported that both the best- and least-liked of each type of garment wore as long as similar garments which did not have a durable press finish (see Appendix B, Table XLVIII, p. 96). .NooH Eoum mHustHm zum> Hmuou mxme has mmwmum>m Sonm Nm mH N H NH oH mH w coHuommmHDMm mmmuo>< 7. mo mm o o w m mm am :oHuommmHumm as mwmuo>m m>on< ucmo mmcoammu coHuommmHumm :oHuommmH aoHuommmHumm uom mo xocmsvoum ucmo mwmum>m Bonn ucoo -umm mwmum>m ucmo mwmum>m m>onm mom cu meOQmmu Mom cu oncommmp Hum cu uncommon ZOHHom4 HHo mozma HHO zo mmoHomU .mHzmnzommmm >H mumm 3onm Nu mm a N Hq coHuommmHumm mwmum>< «H n o o N coHuommeumm mmmum>m o>on< uamo mmcoamou coHuommmHumm coHuomHmH :oHuommeuMm pom mo moamsvoum ucmo mwmno>m onmn ucmo numm owmum>m ucwo ommum>m o>onm umm cu uncommon pom cu uncommon Mom cu omaommmu ZOHHoma HHo mmmq AAo zo mmoHQmU .mHzmnzommmm HxN mqm-v - ' . - ' q o n," - .. - _H ‘--- _,....,,_.. - _. .—. . . s . - a '. ‘I . q 'L . ' . . i I v s - ‘ .. . ' . If ‘ ' I I | U l .. . . - ‘ . -. _,’_,.. ,A-.. ‘. ~.,. 7.- .., .- ._......r . .7..- .. . . s . - , I 4 _ I . . ' J h ’ e . , I - , g § a I . . . 0 ' a. . ' ,.. m.- .A. 0‘ -. a-g- ‘- -..—-w—-. r--. ~ ~- -. er» s - .7 . u ._ ..» k ‘ . . t ' C - ‘ . ~- . ‘. -.——- ~-.-nu~~o-_ a. -- ‘5‘ —.MI... e u-v-r .-, , . ‘v . - ’ . . o ".-'”f-. . I i . a 0—... .e.—.. “.0 .e -0...” -'~-'-.— -«—. -- , - .p - . .. - -o s ' ' . I . ’ l 1 i e ’ . - .... ..---. .. m . . - .‘c... ..,.~ .- F.-. .n. l \ a .A a . , . v r ‘ I x. . ‘ . ' I ’V I I ‘ i . ll . - - ' . ‘ . I . .- n-a— ._ ~ — ‘ . ._,. . u - . r . ‘. I I . .' . ’ I -hei'. . - I huh .I".-- v 'V - ”a .0. 1‘ "\~O~ ~ ~ I‘- § _- “-* v C o ’ I Ui-~ 0- ‘0 O a ‘ . I . . . ' ' " , . - - . n .. . . .- -_ I I 3 I . I I ‘ — - s . . n- . I l .‘ l- ' \ . ' ' . . . ‘ .. ‘ a 4" -' I. >'-' ' I I I -“‘ h 1 y . ~ . ..4 . .‘ , . .-.. _ -. _. . ... en'- .- .. . l .. .. ..-- a.-. - c .-,.-.. . . ,. . a . I . u - . 1 l - - -._ I. .-- - -av-ve -. ,J-‘ . . o , ‘ . -.; ,-. . -. ——\...-c., .- \-...- § 0 c ,_ _ .. , , a .. . a- -A- ‘ - . ’ . s e ‘ . l ..-. » - -o—W.. , e o -_. c... ~ _- . - . . I ‘ . ' I I , . 1 a. ' I _. . .—-- -4. ....~ 7"- — La .-... _ a... I l . . - s. . ‘ , . a- . --4e - -~ . _. - a v--. -. a .. —.. fl- ‘ ' I . A l ' ' _ - . - v -. . - v .— _ 4.-- 'I . . I :1 . . -.-— _c . . . , ... . i ‘- .. a .. —-— s v _ a a . > a v 1 . ll" - ., I a . ‘., c I I ‘ v I | m - . -- s -- . . .- I . . 31. 79 - 9 - If washed in an automatic washipg machine 1. Garment is allowed to go through the complete machine cycle SLACKS SHIRTS Best Liked Least Liked Best Liked Least Liked 61,62,63,64 2. Garment is removed before the last spin cycle 32. ngipgDmethod (check appropriate column for each garment): 1. Line dried 65,66,67,68 2. Drip dried {hung up dripping wet) 3. Dried in the dryer 4. Dried in the extractor with no further drying_process ' S. Dried in extractor followed by tumble dryi 33. ;§.dried ip_£p£.dpyer (check appropriate column for each garment): . Garment dried less than 5 minutes Garment dried 5 - 10 minutes Le'ee id 0 . Garment dried 11 - 20 minutes Garment dried 21 - 30 minutes 69,70,71,72 u-L‘ e Garment dried more than ,30 minutes 34. lg.dried ip_ppp_dpzer (check appropriate column for each garment): l. Durable press garments are removed from the dryer before the dryer stops 2. Garments are removed immediately after the dryer stops 3. Garments are removed when convenient 73,74,75,76 35. After removal from dpzer dp_zgp_(check appropri+ ate column for each garment): 1. Bapg on hanger 2, Fold 3. Other (please specify) 77,78,79,80 36. Appearance g£.Garment After Laundering Check the following paired items which pertain to each of your garments. Seams: l. Seams are puckered 2. Seams are not puckered Card 03 9,10,11,12 80 SLACKS SHIRTS - 10 - a B t: B u '8 2 3 mxmx oxox 3 :3 3 :3 :3 ”.3 .3 ”.3 37. Greases: 1. Greases remain sharp 13’14’15’16 2. Greases do not remain sharp 38. Overall appearance of garment: 1. Fabric in general is smooth 17‘18’19'20 2. Fabric in general is wrinkled 39. Aft_____e__rl und____ering and dpying .1 _nz__ of t__he methodsa listed above do z___(check appropriate 21.22.23.24 column for each garment): 1. "Touch-up" unsprinkled garment with a dry iron 2. 'Touch-up"garment with W 3. Sprinkle garment and then press it 4. No "touch-up" pressing is necessary 40. E m 93 press 3:35 garments, indicate which 935 3,26,27,28 area needs ppg_most pressipg (check appropriate column for each garment): 1. Seams 2. Detail areas (such as creases, pockets, collars,gcuffs) 3. no problem areas Stain Removal 41. Do y__,find it difficult to remove oily stains 29,30,31’32 (e. g. stains caused by skin oil on shirt collars or food stains such as butter or salad dressing etc. spilled on garments)(check appropriate column for each garment): 1. Very difficult to remove 2;_ Not too difficult to remove 3. Easy to remove 4. Fabric has not been stained 42. Removal pg'beverage stains (check appropriate column for each garment): 33,34,3S,36 l. Veryidifficult to remove 2:» Not too difficult to remove . Easy to remove 3 4. Fabric has not been stained ~ -. .. . ._ . _ , s . <-- -.-. .‘ Q I- . _ .. .- . - _. - -- - - . . _...- -..~s \ —: --c—-u-- . , | c l . .___-. ,7 — ..- a... . 4...- . ‘-‘¢. .n. .o._ u. ~- --'~. to 43. 81 - 11 - List ghg_things especially liked about ppg_durable press garments zpp_have owned: 1. Slacks 2. Shirts List pgg.things espgciallz disliked about £§g_durable press garments zpp_ have owned: 1. Slacks 2. Shirts t i ,7 . .' ' n ' I . i I 2 . . I . 1 V . x I I l . ’ ' I . . '. ; I . x S h l I ‘4 1 ~ L I . ‘ n ‘ s . . 1 t ,.. . . _, . b b . _ . u -o—— a.- .c. *— o..- --.4 4 ~ - .u.~. ‘0- up” or, v- n.‘ -- Ib-v- or» -.q . 43. 81 - 11 - List Egg.things especially liked about ppg_durable press garments ppp_have owned: 1. Slacks 2. Shirts List phg.things espgciallz disliked about Egg.durable press garments 122. have owned: 1. Slacks 2. Shirts APPENDIX B 83 TABLE XXII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS ON AGE AGE Husband Wife 18-25 60 70 26-30 17 14 31-40 10 3 Over 40 1 1 No response 2 2 TABLE FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE XXIII OF WIVES ON OCCUPATION OCCUPATION Wives Homemaker 31 Student 15 Other 40 No response 4 TABLE XXIV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF HUSBANDS ON OCCUPATION OCCUPATION Husbands I Student only 68 Student and other 11 Non-student 8 N0 response 3 ‘ 84 TABLE XXV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS ON THE NUMBER OF DURABLE PRESS SLACKS OWNED Per cent of total number Number of of slacks for qualified NUMBER OF SLACKS respondents respondents O 6 _ 1 O - 2 22 27 3 16 19 4 19 22 5 12 14 6 7 8 7 O 0 8 4 5 9 l 1 10 2 2 12 1 1 TOTALS 345 90 99* *Averages may make total vary slightly from 100%. 85 TABLE XXVI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS ON THE NUMBER OF DURABLE PRESS SHIRTS OWNED Per cent of total number Number of of shirts for qualified NUMBER OF SHIRTS respondents respondents O 26 _ l 8 - 2 19 33 3 12 23 4 4 7 5 8 14 6 5 9 7 2 4 8 3 5 9 1 2 10 O O 11 O O 12 1 2 24 l 2 TOTALS 254 90 101* *Averages may make total vary slightly from 100%. 86 TABLE XXVII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO FIBER CONTENT OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- FIBER CONTENT liked liked liked liked Polyester/cotton or polyester/rayon 32 ll 42 24 Nylon/cotton l 3 2 3 Other fiber content 2 3 3 5 No indication on label or do not recall 4O 43 10 17 No response 15 3O 33 41 TABLE XXVIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO COLOR OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WHEN PURCHASED SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- COLOR OF GARMENT liked liked liked liked Plain dark color or dark plaid 57 24 7 8 . Medium plain color or medium colored plaid 16 10 12 9 Light color 1 29 12 15 White 0 O 24 17 No response 16 27 35 41 FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO TYPE OF STORE WHERE MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WERE PURCHASED 87 TABLE XXIX SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- TYPE OF STORE liked liked liked liked Department store or men's specialty store 52 35 27 22 National chain store 23 14 21 11 Variety or discount store 2 10 l 7 Received as gift 3 2 4 10 No response 10 29 36 39 TABLE XXX FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO APPROXIMATE PRICE PAID FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- APPROXIMATE PRICE PAID liked liked liked liked $5.49 or less 12 20 38 32 $5.50 or more 64 39 13 11 Received as a gift or do not recall 5 5 7 6 No response 9 26 32 41 88 TABLE XXXI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO NUMBER OF TIMES THE DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS HAD BEEN WORN SLACKS SHIRTS NUMBER OF TIMES GARMENT Best- ’ Least- Best- Least- HAD BEEN WORN liked liked liked liked 0- 5 0 0 0 0 6-15 2 0 O 0 16-30 0 1 2 1 31-50 2 l 2 6 50 and over 71 52 44 39 No response 17 34 42 44 TABLE XXXII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO TOTAL NUMBER OF TIMES MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WERE CLEANED SLACKS SHIRTS NUMBER OF TIMES Best- Least— Best- Least— GARMENT WAS CLEANED liked liked liked liked 5 or less 13 12 4 11 6-10 17 ll 13 10 ' 11-15 12 ll 16 12 16-20 22 16 10 7 21 or more 7 5 6 4 No response 19 35 41 46 TABLE XXXIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS OVER-ALL LEVEL OF Best- Least- Best- Least GARMENT SATISFACTION liked liked liked liked Below average (satisfaction) 0 13 2 7 Average (satisfaction) 18 44 19 37 Above average (satisfaction) 64 9 39 7 No response 8 24 30 39 FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL TABLE XXXIV LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH APPEARANCE OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS OVER-ALL LEVEL OF Best- Least- Best- Least- SATISFACTION WITH APPEARANCE liked liked liked liked Below average 1 9 2 6 Average 14 44 16 32 Above average 68 13 42 13 No response 7 24 30 39 90 TABLE XXXV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH COMFORT WITH MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION Best- Least- Best- Least WITH COMFORT liked liked liked liked Below average 1 5 2 2 Average 22 38 ll 27 Above average 60 23 46 23 No response 7 24 31 38 TABLE XXXVI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH FIT FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS _7 j SLACKS ‘1I SHIRTS OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION Best- Least- Best- Least- WITH FIT liked liked liked liked Below average 0 5 0 1 Average 26 39 17 24 Above average 57 21 43 25 No response 7 25 30 40 ii. i_ a; 91 TABLE XXXVII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH DURABILITY FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH Best- Least- Best- Least- DURABILITY liked liked liked liked Below average 1 10 l 4 Average 25 34 15 22 Above average 55 19 38 21 No reSponse 9 27 36 43 TABLE XXXVIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH EASE OF CARE FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS r __—_ t SLACKS SHIRTS OVER-ALL LEVEL OF SATISFACTION WITH Best- Least- Best- Least- EASE OF CARE liked liked liked liked Below average 1 8 2 8 Average 16 35 20 23 Above average 66 22 37 20 No response 7 25 31 39 92 TABLE XXXIX FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO APPEARANCE OF DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WHEN PURCHASED SLACKS SHIRTS APPEARANCE OF GARMENT Best- Least- Best- ~Least- WHEN PURCHASED liked liked liked liked No wrinkles present or wrinkles could be pressed out 81 58 57 46 Wrinkles present which could not be pressed out 0 4 l 3 No response 9 28 32 41 TABLE XL FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO COLOR OF DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS AFTER WEAR AND CLEANING SLACKS SHIRTS COLOR OF GARMENT (AFTER WEAR AND Best- Least- Best- Least- CLEANING) liked liked liked liked No change 65 37 51 37 Slight change l6 l8 9 10 Distinct change 1 9 0 2 No response 8 26 30 41 93 TABLE XLI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO APPEARANCE OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS AFTER A DAY'S WEAR SLACKS SHIRTS APPEARANCE OF GARMENT Best- Least- Best- Least- AFTER A DAY'S WEAR liked liked liked liked Not wrinkled 71 3O 4O 21 Slightly wrinkled ll 26 l7 18 Very wrinkled 0 8 2 10 No reSponse 8 26 31 41 TABLE XLII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO FIT IN LENGTHWISE DIRECTION OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WHEN PURCHASED SLACKS SHIRTS FIT IN LENGTH- Best- Least- Best- Least- WISE DIRECTION liked liked liked liked Adequate 74 48 57 45 Too short 3 4 l 2 Too long 4 12 O 2 No response 9 26 32 41 94 TABLE XLIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO FIT IN CROSSWISE DIRECTION OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WHEN PURCHASED SLACKS SHIRTS FIT IN CROSS- Best- Least- Best- Least- WISE DIRECTION liked liked liked liked Adequate 75 46 54 43 Not adequate 5 15 0 2 Too full 0 2 4 6 No response 10 27 32 39 TABLE XLIV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO FIT OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS AFTER CLEANING SLACKS SHIRTS FIT OF GARMENT Best- Least- Best- Least- AFTER CLEANING liked liked liked liked Garment remained same size 76 47 57 44 Garment shrank slightly 5 l4 2 5 Garment size changed greatly 0 2 O 1 No response 9 27 31 40 TABLE XLV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO STIFFNESS OF FABRIC OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WHEN PURCHASED SLACKS SHIRTS STIFFNESS OF FABRIC Best- Least- Best- Least- WHEN PURCHASED liked liked liked liked Stiff 18 15 ll 13 Not stiff 64 50 47 38 No response 8 25 H 32 39 TABLE XLVI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO STIFFNESS OF FABRIC OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS AFTER CLEANING SLACKS SHIRTS STIFFNESS OF FABRIC Best- Least- Best- Least- AFTER CLEANING liked liked liked liked Stiff 9 6 3 3 Not stiff 71 56 56 47 No response 10 28 31 40 96 TABLE XLVII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO WARMTH OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS DURING WEAR SLACKS SHIRTS WARMTH OF GARMENT Best- Least- Best- Least- DURING WEAR liked liked liked liked Garments felt warmer than garments without a durable press finish l4 l3 5 7 Garments felt the same 62 47 38 33 Garments felt cooler 5 4 14 10 No response 9 26 33 40 TABLE XLVIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS T0 LENGTH OF TIME MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WORN SLACKS SHIRTS LENGTH OF TIME DURABLE Best- Least- Best- Least- PRESS GARMENTS WORN liked liked liked liked The same as garments with- out a durable press finish 54 40 36 29 A very short time 3 8 2 4 Garments not worn a sufficient number of times to judge 23 16 17 16 No response 10 26 35 41 97 TABLE XLIX FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO SEAM SPLITTING IN MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS SEAM SPLITTING (IN Best- Least- Best- Least- DURABLE PRESS GARMENTS) liked liked liked liked Seams split 14 24 3 5 Seams did not split 65 4O 54 44 No response 11 26 33 41 TABLE L FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO FABRIC SPLITTING IN MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS -_Li SHIRTS FABRIC SPLITTING (IN Best- Least- Best- Least- DURABLE PRESS GARMENTS) liked liked liked liked Fabric split 5 5 2 3 Fabric did not split 75 59 55 45 No response _Ar 10 26 33 42 98 TABLE LI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO FABRIC ABRASION FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- FABRIC ABRASION liked liked liked liked Fabric wore thin in areas which received abrasion 24 26 5 8 Fabric did not wear thin 54 37 50 42 No response 12 27 l; 35 4O TABLE LII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO AREAS WHICH FRAYED OR SHOWED WEAR IN MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- FRAYED OR WORN AREAS liked liked liked liked Edges of garment 4 5 l6 14 Pocket edges 9 9 O 0 Zipper fly 2 l 0 0 Crease of slacks 6 10 O 0 No problem areas 50 ' 32 35 31 No response 19 33 39 45 99 TABLE LIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO METHOD OF CLEANING FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS fl 1; _‘-_ L SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- METHOD OF CLEANING liked liked liked liked Dry clean 7 4 0 0 Commercial laundry 1 l 3 3 Automatic washing machine or hand wash 71 59 55 47 No response 11 26 32 40 TABLE LIV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO WHEN MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS ARE REMOVED FROM AN AUTOMATIC WASHING MACHINE SLACKS SHIRTS REMOVAL FROM AUTOMATIC Best- Least- Best- Least- WASHING MACHINE liked liked liked liked After the machine cycle is completed 65 54 48 44 Before the last spin cycle 7 5 5 2 No response 18 31 37 44 =L ==J; TABLE LV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO DRYING METHOD USED FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- DRYING METHOD liked liked liked liked Drip dried or dried in a tumble dryer 60 50 46 35 Line dried or dried in an extractor followed by tumble drying 12 10 8 9 Dried in an extractor only 2 l 3 4 No response 16 29 33 42 TABLE LVI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO THE NUMBER OF MINUTES MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS WERE DRIED IN THE DRYER SLACKS SHIRTS NUMBER OF MINUTES GARMENTS DRIED IN Best- Least- Best- Least- THE DRYER ‘ liked liked liked liked 1-10 36 31 32 27 11-20 19 14 6 6 21 or more 7 6 5 3 No response 28 39 47 54 101 TABLE LVII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO WHEN MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS ARE REMOVED FROM THE DRYER _— #— SLACKS SHIRTS Best- ' Least- Best- Least- REMOVAL FROM DRYER liked liked liked liked Before or immediately after dryer stops 56 45 39 32 When convenient ' 6 7 4 4 No response . 28 38 47 54 TABLE LVIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO HOW MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS ARE HANDLED AFTER REMOVAL FROM THE DRYER SLACKS SHIRTS AFTER REMOVAL Best- Least- Best— Least- FROM THE DRYER liked liked liked liked Garments are hung on a hanger or folded 59 48 41 36 Other 5 5 4 3 No response 26 37 45 51 102 TABLE LIX FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO APPEARANCE OF SEAMS ON MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS AFTER CLEANING SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- SEAM.APPEARANCE liked liked liked liked Puckered 8 13 15 18 Not puckered 72 52 44 31 No response 10 25 31 41 TABLE LX FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO APPEARANCE OF CREASES AFTER CLEANING OF MEN'S DURABLE. PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS ;— SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- CREASE APPEARANCE liked liked liked liked Sharp 76 41 39 27 Not sharp 4 23 12 15 No response 10 26 39 48 103 TABLE LXI FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO OVER-ALL FABRIC APPEARANCE OF MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS AFTER CLEANING SLACKS SHIRTS APPEARANCE Best- Least- Best- Least- AFTER CLEANING liked liked liked liked Smooth 71 45 45 26 Wrinkled 6 16 10 21 No response 13 29 35 43 i3;— __—.__: TABLE LXII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO PRESSING REQUIRED FOR MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS Best- Least- Best- Least- PRESSING REQUIRED liked liked liked liked "Touch-up" pressing with a steam or dry iron 31 35 35 3O Pressing after garment is sprinkled 4 5 7 9 No pressing is required 40 21 13 8 No response 15 J29 35 43 104 TABLE LXIII FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO AREAS WHICH REQUIRE PRESSING ON MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS AREAS WHICH Best- Least- Best- Least- REQUIRE PRESSING liked liked liked liked Seams and detail areas 26 3O 28 28 No problem areas 29 20 18 12 No response 35 40 44 5O TABLE LXIV FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO REMOVAL OF OIL BASED STAINS ON MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS REMOVAL OF OIL Best- Least- Best- Least- BASED STAINS liked liked liked liked Very difficult 16 24 14 10 Not too difficult 27 16 12 9 Fabric has not been stained 38 27 32 31 No response 9 23 32 40 FREQUENCY OF RESPONSE OF NINETY RESPONDENTS TO REMOVAL OF 105 TABLE LXV BEVERAGE STAINS ON MEN'S DURABLE PRESS SLACKS AND SHIRTS SLACKS SHIRTS REMOVAL OF Best- Least- Best- Least- BEVERAGE STAINS liked liked liked liked Very difficult 4 4 4 4 Not too difficult 29 23 14 7 Fabric has not been stained 47 38 39 38 No response 10 25 33 41 BIBLIOGRAPHY 10. ll. 12. 13. BIBLIOGRAPHY A Definitive Guide to Permanent Press, Celanese Fibers Marketing Company, 1965. Alexander, Edward N. "Deferred Cure Processes for Durable Press," American Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 55, No. 16 (Aug. 1, 1966), 28-31. "All Cotton Fabrics for Durable Press," Textile Industries, Vol. 129, No. 10 (Oct., 1965), 74, 75, 77, 78, 85, 87, 92, 95, 107. Allweiss, Lee. "Testing Every Step of the Way a 'Must' for Reliable Durable Press," Americak Textile Reporter, Vol. 80, No. 18 (May 5, 1966), 21, 75. "Alteration Aid for Permanent Press Garments," Consumer Bulletin Vol. 49, No. 9, p. 43. American Institute of Laundering, "Textile Notes," Bulletin No. 58 (1966). "Anti-stain Finishes Vie for Durable Press," Chemical and Engineering News, Vol. 44 (Oct. 17, 1966), 42-43. Beaumont, Warren. "The Delayed Cure Process," American Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 54, N0. 19 (Sept. 13, 1965), 86-99. 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