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2/05 c:/Cl—RC/DataDue.indd-p. 15

//A cormerscr: CF FCUR SELECTED E-E’EJ'S DPLSSS SHIRT/

by
Audrey Bates

//

Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts, 513A, presented to fulfill the
problem requirement for the Master of Arts Degree in Textiles and

Clothing at Michigan State University, August, 1960.

Professor Kiss Hazel Blvfitrahen

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE

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Limitations................................o...o......o..o.o

II. METHODS AND PROCEDURES.........................................
Selection of ehirts.........................................
Laboratory tests............................................

Yarn construction........................................

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III. DISCUSSICII OF MTSOOOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOIOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

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Analysis of yarn construction...............................

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Analysis of fabric characteristics..........................

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SUbjective analysis.........................................
IV.. CONCLUSIONS.................................................... 24
V. SUMMARY........................................................ 28
Yarn construction........................................... 28
Fabric characteristics...................................... 28

Fabric perfomaDCBOOOO......OOOOOOOOOOOOO....OOOOOO......... 29

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LIST OF SUI-3m CHARTS

CHARTS

1.
2.
3.
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Samples Of Shirt Fabrics Used In Study.........................
Cutting Charts.................................................
Purchase Data Of Shirts Used In This Study.....................
Summary Of Data................................................
Summary Of Changes-Before and After Ten Launderings............

3811]! In comparison Of PerfomanceSooooooooooone...000.000.0000.

PAGE

32
33
36
37
38
39

onginal Data-......OOOOOCOOO.O....OO....0............OOOOOOOOOCAO-S'?

A COLTARISON OF FOUR SELECTED I-CBIJ'S DRESS SHIRTS
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION

Every man who has worn a white dress shirt as well as every woman
who has ever cared for one is vitally concerned with wanting to get a
shirt that will give maximum wear with minimwn care. To determine
some of the differences in performances, this study will involve the
testing of men's, easyacare, white, cotton, broadcloth, dress shirts,
taking into consideration both price and brand names as factors in
conparison.'

I. THE PROBLEM

§tatement of the pggblem. The purpose of this study is to compare
by laboratory study the fabrics from four readyamade, men's easy-care,
white, cotton, broadcloth, dress shirts. In the selected shirts, there
is both a difference in price range and in brand names. The shirts to
be tested are a $4 Japanese made summer shirt, a $4 chain store shirt,
a $5 name brand shirt, and a T? shirt of the same name brand.

Statement of specific objectives. The specific objectives for this
problem are: (1) to compare the fabrics of the shirts selected for this
study; (2) to determine the relationship of price to fabric performance
in the selected white dress shirts for this study; (3) to compare any
quality differences in the nationally advertised shirts with the others
in the study; (A) to make assumptions as to the probable ease of care

required for the selected shirts; and (5) to interpret laboratory test

2
results on various performances of these shirts; namely, wrinkle recovery,
dimensional stability, chlorine retention, breaking strength, and resis-

tance to abrasion.
II. LIMITATIONS

Statement 9; limitations. Laboratory testing will be according
to standards set by the American Society for Testing Material (ASTM),
Federal Specifications, and American Standard Performance Requirements
for Textile Fabrics. This study will not include the practical testing
of actual wear and care.

The shirts used are typical of purchases that my husband and other
young men in the teaching profession would be apt to make.

This study is limited by the length of time available for working
with the problem. There has been, of necessity, a concentration of
testing and analysis in order that the problem could be completed in

the time available.

 

CHAPTER II
METECDS AXD PROCEDURES
I. SELECTION OF SHIRTS

The four shirts used for this study were typical of shirt purchases
that my fam’ly would make. Price and brand name were to be two factors
to compare in this study.

Due to the textile competition from Japanese manufacturers, it was
decided to have one Japanese made shirt to compare its fabric for price
and performance qualities with American manufactured shirts.

A chain store shirt was chosen to represent a less expensive shirt.
A name brand shirt was also chosen to be used as a more expensive type
shirt. ’

The fourth shirt was a more expensive shirt with a brand name
for comparison of price to the other shirts as well as quality factors.
This shirt, a blend of iacron and cotton, was chosen to be compared with
the other cotton shirts.

The Japanese shirt was purchased in Detriot, Michigan at the time of
the riots in Japan. It was interesting to note the hostility felt when
inouiring about Japanese made shirts as well as while making the final
purchase. Most of the inquiries were by telephone. The usual answer to
the question of whether Japanese made shirts were sold at that store was

to the effect that, no, we never carry Japanese shirts. Only three of the

20 stores contacted in the Detroit area carried Japanese made shirts.
Only one store carried a shirt acceptable for my study. This was a short
sleeved, Jacquard weave, 100% Pima cotton, white shirt selling for $3.98.
No claim was made as to ease of care. This Japanese shirt is referred to
as Shirt.A in this problem.

The chain store shirt was purchased at hontgomery Ward's. This
shirt was their $3.98, 100% Pine and combed cotton blended. It was
claimed to be wash and wear, as well as having a nonayellowing finish.
This shirt is referred to as Shirt B throughout this study.

The third shirt chosen was an Arrow brand name in their "Chase"
style. This was a $5, 100% cotton shirt. It was also claimed to be
wash and wear. This shirt is referred to as Shirt 0 throughout this study.

The fourth shirt purchased was an Arrow brand name also, but this
tine their "Decton" style. This shirt was $6.95, and contained 65%
Dacron and 35% cotton. This shirt was also a wash and wear and will

be referred to as Shirt D throughout this study.
II. LABORATORY TESTS

Laboratory tests were carried out according to standards set by the
American Society for Testing Material (ASTi-i), Federal Specifications,
American Standard Performance Requirements for Textile Fabrics (L22),
and American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC).

Standard conditions. ASTM: D 39-49. Tests were completed in
standard condition, unless otherwise specified. Standard condition of
woven fabrics shall be that reached by the fabric when in moisture

equilibrium with a standard atmosphere having a relative humidity

5
of 65% at 70 F. A tolerance of plus or minus 2% is permitted in relative

humidity and plus or minus 2 F in temperature.
A. YARN CONSTRUCTION

3.9331. mm. AS'M D 122M-57T. Test instrument: Universal Yarn
Numbering Balance. Procedure: By accurately measuring a designated
length of yarn, it can be placed on the Universal Yarn Numbering Balance
and its yarn number read directly with no further calculations needed.

The test specimen is measured by a specially made ruler which has
marks for proper lengths of various fibers needed. One yard of my
fabrics was needed to give the correct yarn number.

Mter the specimen is measured, it is brought against the cutting
edge of the ruler and cut off. The yarn is then twisted into a knot so
as to hang centrally on the hook.

After the yarn is on the hook, the weighing chamber is closed. The
beam is unlocked and the index lever rotated until the beam is in balance.
The index pointer then indicates the correct yarn number.

Direction of, m ASH-f: D 123. A single yarn has § twist if,
when held in a vertical position, the spirals around its central axis
conform in direction of slope to the central position of the letter "S",
and g twist if the spiralsconform in direction of slope with the central
portion of the letter "Z" .

M 9_i_‘ M. 2-3: D 1423-56T. Principle: The twist in a
known length of yarn is counted as it is removed, by rotating one end of
the specimen until" the elements being tested are parallel. The number of

turns required to remove the twist is reported in terms of turns per inch.

6

Apparatus: Suter Twist Tester. Test Specimens: One inch was used
aS‘the guage length. Ten tests were made on the yarns in each direction.

Procedure:- From.an 18" strip (the longest possible in my fabrics),
the yarn.was ravelled back to A” and inserted in the right hand jaw and
carefully removed by a pick needle to retain the original twist. The
yarn was then carried.under a deflection load of 3 grams. After inserting
into the left hand Jaw, the yarn was drawn tautly with allowance for a
deflection of 1/8". The three gram deflection load is then lifted. The
yarn is completely untwisted and given a reverse twist by continuing to
turn the handle of the twist tester in the same direction, until about
the same amount of twist has been put back into the yarn as it had
originally. The depressor was lowered, and twisted or untwisted until
the yarn was again opposite the lower mark on the guide which represents
the 1/8" deflection from the straight line. The dial shows double the amount
of twist, therefore it is devided by two to obtain the average twist

per inch.
II. FABRIC CONSTRUCTICH

3218230 ASTH: D 39—49. A number of specimens not less than 2 inches
square and having a total area of 20 square inches were cut from the
fabrics, weighed on a Becker Chainomatic Balance, and the weight per
square yard calculated.

The following formula from Textile Testing by John S. Skinkle was
used in calculating the weight per square yard. 8 : 45.71 %1
A equals area of sample in square inches and G' equals weight of sample
at standard regain in grams.

Count. ASTN:~ D39-49. humber of‘Warp Yarns per inch by use of a yarn

counter. The actual number of warp yarns in one inch were counted at
five places in the fabric, and the average number of yarns per inch was
calculated. No two spaces counted included the same yarns.

Number of Filling Yarns per Inch. The average number of filling
yarns per inch were determined in accordance with the previous
paragraph.

Breaking Strength. ASTH: D 39-49. Ravel-Strip Method. Specimen:
The specimens were 1% inch in width. Each specimen was reveled to 1 inch
by taking from each side approximately the same number of yarns. Two
sets of six specimens each were used, one set, for warp breaking strength,
had the longer dimension parallel to the warp yarns; and the other set,
for filling breaking strength, had the longer dimension parallel to the
filling yarns. No two specimens for warp breaking strength contain the
same warp yarns, or for filling breaking strength the same filling yarns.

Testing machine: The Scott Tensile Strength Machine.

Procedure: The specimens were placed symmetrically in the clamps of
the machine, with the longer dimension parallel to, and the shorter
dimension at right angles to the direction of application of the load.
Care was taken to grip the same yarns in both clamps. The average of the
results was reported on six individual tests on the warp as warp breaking
strength, and the average of the six individual tests on the filling as
the filling breaking strength.

wet Breaking Strength: Preparation of Test Specimens: Specimens
were prepared as above with the test specimens cut 12" in length. Each
specimen was numbered, and divided into two parts, one 6 inches long

for determining the dry breaking strength, and the other for determining

the wet breaking strength. Each portion bore the specimen number. In
this manner, each break was performed on test specimens containing the
same yarns.

Procedure: The test specimens for wet breaking strength were
imrersed in tap water at room temperature until thoroughly wetted.

Then, the specimens were removed and tested immediately for wet breaking
Strength in accordance with the methods specified above for determining
breaking strength.

Eloggation. ASTM: D 39—49. The elongation of the fabrics was
obtained when the breaking strength was determined for the same speci-
mens by means of an autographic recording device on the testing machine.
The elongation is the average of the results obtained for six specimens,
and it is expressed as percentage increase in length. An initial load of
6 ounces, was placed on the specimen before gripping the specimen in the
lower clamp of the machine. The elongation was calculated from the start
of the line as shown on the graphic record.

wrinkle recovegz., AATCC:’ 66-1959 and ASTN: D 1295-53T
Principle: A test specimen, creased and compressed under controlled
conditions of time and load, is suspended in the test instrument for a
controlled recovery period, after which the recovery angle is measured.

Apparatus: Konsanto wrinkle Recovery Tester, Specimen Holder, and
Plastic Press.

Test Specimens: Six 1.5 x 4 centimeter test specimens in both
warp and filling directions at widely separated places, were cut from each

fabric sample. The long dimension corresponded to the direction of test.

9

Procedure:~ The samples were conditioned for a 24.hour period. The
test specimen was placed between the leaves of the holder with one end
flush with the longer metal strip. The exposed end of the specimen was
lifted over and back to the guide line on the shorter, thindmetal leaf.
The plastic press was spread, and the holder and specimen was inserted into
the press with the jaw with the raised platform on the outside of the
longer metal strip. The press-holder combination was an.inverted711
table and a load of 1 pound was applied gently for 5 minutes.

After 5 minutes, the load was removed, and the exposed end of the
specimen holder was placed in the mount of the face of the tester.

Tb eliminate gravitational effects, the specimen was kept dangling
in alignment‘with the vertical guide line during the 5 minute recovery
period. After this 5 minute recovery, the dangling leg is finally
adjusted to the vertical guide line and the wrinkle recovery value
read from the protractors scale by means of the-vernier. All data was

ahen with the protractors in the "A" position.

Evaluation:- The individual warp and filling readings were averaged
separately to the nearest degree. The data was reported as percentage
crease recovery to the nearest 1%, and calculated as follows:

Crease recovery, per cent: .QE§2§2.£§223222422812 X’lOO

- 180 deg.

Dimensional ghgpgg.. AATCC:~ 65—1960. Principle: A.specimen is
washed in an automatic washer, dried, and restored to shape when needed.
Distances marked on the specimen in warp and filling direction are
measured before and after laundering.

Apparatus: A domestic automatic washer and a hand iron were used

for testing on my specimens. The detergent used was Duz.

10

Test specimens: One specimen, 20 inches square was-used from each
fabric.- Distances were marked in both lengthwise and widthwise directions
by a basting thread. The marked distances were parallel to the respective
yarns. Four distances were measured and marfied off parallel to each of
the warp and filling directions. The distances were at least two inches
from any edge of the specimen.

Procedure: Specimens were laundered according to the procedures
followed for testing of wrinkle resistance which is given below.

Ironing: The dry snecimens were pressed by hand, using a cotton
setting, on a padded ironing board.

Measurements were taken in both directions after the 1st, 2nd, 3rd,
4th, 5th, and 10 th launderings.

Evaluation: The shrinkage in each direction was calculated to the

nearest.5% as follows:

i . . 1 a 7‘ - .3 5‘. J.' i
% Shrinkage ..ori inal me sure.ent §;3_l rcasurerent X’ 100
original measurement

EZanle resistance. AATCC 88-1958. Principle: Fabric specimens
were subjected to procedures simulating home laundering practices. Low
washing temperatures and drip drying procedures were used. Specimens
were evalup ed under close to standardized lighting conditions and assigned
numerical ratings based on their similarity to Standard photographs.
Apparatus: Automatic washing machine, Duz, and drip drying facilities.
Test specimens: Test specimens were prepared in the specifications
for dimensional change mentioned above, since the same specimens were used
in both cases.

Procedures: Test 2 - 105 plus or minus 5 F.

M

 

ll

A.full water level was used with enough dummy pieces to make a
fourapound load. The washer was set for a 10 minute washing time. The
washing proceeded automatically up to the final deep rinse cycle. The
test specimens were removed and hung each by two corners with the warp
in the vertical position in still air at room temperature until dry.

This procedure was repeated ten times.

Evaluation: The test specimens were placed flat on a table. The
Photograph number was assigned to each specimen which most nearly matched
the appearance of the test specimen. Class 5 is equivalent to Photograph-
5 and represents the best wrinkle resistance, while Class 1 is equivalent
to Photograph 1 and represents the least wrinkle resistance.

Calculation and reporting results: The average of the ten launderings
was made, and the average reported to the nearest decimal and indicated‘
the procedure used.

Abrasion resistance. AS’IM: D ll75-55T. Apparatus: Taber Abraser.
A pressure of 500 grams and the 08-10 Calibrase wheels were used.

Test specimens:' The test specimens were taken from areas of the
fabric not repres:nted by the same warp or filling yarns. Specimens
are cut 5 inches square, and made circular when applied to the specimen
holder. 1'} inch hole was cut in the center of each specimen. Six
specimens were used from each fabric.

Procedure: After mounting the specimen, it was made sure that the
ring clamp, washer and knurled nut were securely in place.

The number of revolutions to be made was determined by a sample
from each fabric run through a warp break, a filling break, and then to

complete destruction.

12
The specimen and wheels were brushed clean and the wheels resurfaced at
regular intervals.

Report: Test results were reported in revolutions required to
give first a warp break, then a filling break (hole). Each sample was
carried through 600 revolutions and the appearance recorded.

Chlorine retention: AATCC 92-1958. There were many exceptions made
in the original test and the results were not conclusive for this study.

Principle: The fabrics are treated in sodium hyphochlorite solution,
rinsed, dried, and pressed between hot metal plates. The damaging action
of the retained chlorine is calculated from the difference in tensile
strength before and after pressing.

Apparatus needed: Breakers, ph meter, constant temperature bath,
wringer, Scorch Tester, Scott Tensile-Strength Tester, sodium hypochlorite
stock solution, and distilled water.

Apparatus needed: Not available; pH meter, wringer, and Scorch Tester.

Specimens: Specimens were cut with the same yarns in both warp and
filling as were used for the breaking strength. There were only six
available in both warp and filling directions.

Preparation of solutions: The pH could only be assumed to be
within the range of 6 to 7.

Chlorine solution: The chlorine solution was prepared to 0.25%
available chlorine by using the figures given on the bottle of bleach
as the basis for calculations. The distilled water was used.

Procedure:- Prewetting bath - The samples were immersed, six at a
time for 3 minutes in to 160 plus or minus 5 F, stirring frequently.

Samples were removed and allowed to drain and cool to room temperature.

13

Chlorination bath-The samples were then transferred into the
chlorination solution which was maintained at a temperature of 77 plus_
or minus 2 F.. The samples were agitated frequently and gently with a
glass stirring rod during the 15 minutes chlorination period. The samples
were then removed, drained and pressed dry by using a rolling pin over
the samples placed between the paper towels.

Rinsing——The samples were then immersed into distilled water at a
temperature of 70-90 F for two minutes, agitating gently and continually.
After this, the samples were removed, allowed to drain, and passed
through the rolling pin, as before. This process was repeated six times.

Drying-—The samples were air-dried by placing them flat on a non-
corrosive rack, until just dry.

Scorching-quter the sazples were at standard condition, half of each
of the warp and filling samples were scorched by using a hand iron set
at a.cotton temperature. Each sample was folded in half, lengthwise,
and heat applied to 1" from the fold on one side for 30 seconds, and
then the reverse side for 30 seconds.

Tensile strength--Following the reaching of standard condition again,
the samples, both scorched and unscorched were tested for breaking strength
as mentioned before.

Calculations: The average tensile strength for each set of samples
was calculated.

The formula of each calculation of damage caused by retained chlorine

was: Eéfizlss X 100 3 % loss in tensile strength due to darage
*0 caused by retained chlorine.

14
Tc equals average tensile strength of chlorinated specimens,
unscorched.
Tbs equals average tensile strength of chlorinated specimens,
scorched.
I§§£§.2££2£ Egg Laggéggiggg. Tests performed after ten launderings
were:
Weight
Count
Breaking Strength - dry
Wrinkle Recovery
Abrasion resistance

These tests were performed by the methods given in this chapter

for each of these tests.

CHAPTER III
DISCUSSION OF RESULTS

In this analysis, Shirt.A refers to the $3.98, short sleeve,
100% pima cotton, Japanese made shirt. Shirt B refers to the $3.98,
100%»pima and combed cotton blended, chain store shirt. Shirt C
refers to the $5.00, 100% cotton brand name shirt. Shirt D refers

to the $6.95, 65% Dacron and 35% cotton, name brand shirt. 7- .0 ,
1. ANALYSIS OF rm: CONSTRUCTION

XEEE gtructure. The yarns in all four shirts, both in the warp
and in the filling, are single structure. Therefore, since this factor
is the same for all the shirts, it did not account for any differences
among the shirts. '

zggglgggbgg. The yarn number of the filling and warp yarns in the
four shirts tested did not vary to any great extent except in the case
of the filling in Shirt D which was 60. The other yarns were not so
fine, ranging around 40.

Direction 9; tgigt. The four shirts all had "Z" twist in both warp
and filling yarns.

gmgupt'gf‘tgigt. The warp yarns of Shirt A have the highest twist
of the warp yarns and the filling yarns of Shirt D have the highest

twist of all filling yarns. All of the shirts except D have a higher

 

 

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I

14
warp twist than filling twist.. This exception in D might be due to the

fact that the filling yarns of this shirt are finer than the others.
Shirt A has’the greatest over all twist with Shirt D having the
next greatest. Shirts B and C are close in amount of twist. In Shirt
0, the warp and filling twist are close with 19 tpi in the warp and 18
tpi in the filling.
It is expected that Shirts A and B will be stronger than Shirts
B and C. All of the yarns had a high twist to add strength to all of

the shirts.
II.. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC CHARACTERISTICS

Egggg. Since Shirts B, C and D are plain weave, they can be
expected to perform in similar ways. 0n the other hand, the Jacquard
weave of the Shirt A will account for many differences throughout the
remainder of the testing.

flgight’pgg §g3§;§,z§;d.. The weight of Shirt A is the greatest.
Shirt D is the lightest in weight. However, it should be noted that
the difference from heaviest to lightest in the four shirts is only one
ounce. Also, all four shirts could be classed as light in weight and
therefore would be comfortable in this respect for the wearer.

After ten launderings, there was a loss in weight of 3.7% in Shirt
A, and a.gain in weight of 2.8% in Shirt C, with Shirts B and D showing
no gain or loss of weight. .

Shirt A probably lost its finish in the laundering process while
B and C, especially C, may have part of the detergent used in laundering

clinging to either the fibers or the finish. with no gain or loss in

15
Shirt D, it can be assumed that it either had no finish to wash out or to
catch detergent particles, or that it lost as much finish as it accumu-
lated in detergent.

gggat. The count in Shirts A, B, and C is very similar, especially
in the case of Shirts A and C. Shirt B has about the same count in the
warp as the others, but the filling count is much less. Shirt D has
not only fewer yarns in the warp, but also more yarns in the filling.
Since the.fllling yarns in Shirt D are finer, this no doubt accounts
for the greater number of yarns in that direction.

After ten launderings, there was not much change in count of the
fabric. The difference was especially small in the warp direction with
the greatest change in Shirt A, at -2.9%, with no change in Shirts B and
C‘ and only {37% change in Shirt D's warp. There was a gain in the filling
count of three shirts ranging from %3.3% in Shirt A to #2% in Shirt D.
The filling in Shirt B was the only loss in count at -l.3%.

There was a.minimum.in shrinkage as shown by the small change in
count before and after laundering.

ngaking gtrength.. Shirts A and D have the greatest strength,
both dry and wet.. Shirt A is a little stronger in both warp and filling
direction when dry, but Shirt D has more strength in the warp direction
when.wet. The warp strength of Shirts B and C is almost the same, but
the filling in Shirt B is a little more than twice as strong as the
filling in Shirt C.

Shirt A is the strongest, followed closely by Shirt D. Shirt B

would be next in strength and Shirt C would have the least strength.

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16

All of the shirts show a gain in strength when wet in both warp
and filling. Shirt D shows the greatest increase in the warp at 15.3%.
Shirt A is next with 11.8%. Shirt B shows a 2.6% increase and Shirt C
remainded the same when wet as dry. Shirt B increased in strength the
most in the filling direction with 35.4%. Shirt C was next with an
increase of 22.8%. Shirt D was close to Shirt 0 with a 21.5% gain while
Shirt.A showed only a 1.3% gain in filling strength when wet.

There waS*a definite loss of strength in all shirts except C after
ten launderings. With only dry breaking strength tested, the warp strength
of Shirt B decreased by 15.6%. Shirt C warp decreased by 11.0%. Shirt
A decreased by 5.8% while Shirt D decreased by only 3.2%. The filling
of Ihirt c was the only increase by 21.2% while all others decreased.
Shirt A decreased the most at 15.0%. Shirt D decreased by only 1.5% and
Shirt C.by only .2%. Therefore, Shirt A lost the most strength after
ten launderings with Shirt C the only shirt_showing an increase, which
was in the filling direction.

Elopgation. Shirt D far exceeded the other three shirts in elongation
when both wet and dry, having three times as much strength as the next
closest, Shirt.A. Shirt B has the least elbngation in the warp direction
and Shirt C the least elongation in the warp direction. It is interh
eating to note that Shirt D has four and a half times as much elongation
as*Shirt B in the warp direction and almost six times as much in the
filling direction as Shirt C.’

All of the shirts except Shirt C, and D fillings, lost elongation

when wet. All of the other dimensions gained in elongation when wet.

17
Shirt A.gained in elongation after ten launderings, in both warp
and filling.. Shirts C and D lost elongation in the warp, but gained in

the filling.- filirt B lost elongation both inthe warp and in the filling.
III.. ANALYSIS OF mam mum

Wrinkle recoveu. Shirt D has the greatest crease recovery with
Shirt C very close, and alirt B not much lower than Shirt 0. Actually,
all three shirts show a highly desirable crease recovery for a shirt
fabric. It is apparent that some finish has- been applied to these shirts
to give them this property. Shirt A is far behind the other three with
only half the recovery power as Shirt D.

filirt 0 lost the least amount of its: crease recovery properties
after ten launderings. Shirt D did not lose much more than 0.. Shirt B
lost 19‘ in its filling crease: recovery but no more than Shirt 0 in the
warp direction. Shirt A, even with less than the other three shirts
before laundering, lost more than the others in laundering. This would
indicate- that Shirt 1, as the others, must have had some finish applied.
The finish came out of Shirt A more readily than the others upon launder-
ing, but all show a lossin crease recovery after ten lannderings.

Dimensional chgges. After one laundering, only Shirt B showed no
change in dimension. Shirt C did not shrink in the filling, but shrank
g in the warp. Both Shirts A and D shrank tit in both warp and filling
after the first laundering.

All of the shirtsin both directions had shrunk to 3% after the

second laundering.

 

w---

3 .

18

Shirts B and C had not shrunk any more than-}% after the third
laundering, but Shirt D had.shrunk 1% in the filling and-%% in the
warp.. Shirt A had shrunk 1% in both warp and filling after the third'
laundering.

Results after the fourth laundering were the same as after the
third laundering except that the warp in Shirt A had gone back to only
-%% shrinkage. 1

After the fifth laundering, Shirts B and C had still not shrunk more
than-%%, Shirt A had shrunk 1% in both directions, and Shirt D had shrunk
is in the warp, but 1—2576 in the filling.

After the tenth, and final laundering, Shirt B showed the least
amount of Shrinkage, at-%% in the warp, and 1% in the filling. Shirts
A and C had both shrunk to 1%iin both warp and filling. Shirt D had
shrunk the most at 1% in the warp and 2% in the filling. This last
shrinkage is beyond their Sanforized standard.

Overall, Shirt B gave the best laundering performance in dimensional
stability, with Shirt 0 and A not far behind, and Shirt D the least satis-
factory in dimensional stability.

wrinkle resistance. wrinkle resistance in this case is based on
Test 1 of the L22 Standards where the use of photographs of wrinkle.
resistance are shown by Class. They go from Class 1 (least wrinkle
resistance) to Class 5 (most wrinkle resistance). Both Shirt B and
Shirt 0 were classed at an average of 4.8 which is very good. It
should be noted, that my observations, after some of the launderings
indicated that both had a better wrinkle resistance than even Class 5.

Shirt D was given a class of 4.1, which is still quite good, but not

19
so much as the other two. It should be noted, that Shirt D was increasing
again in wrinkle resistance after more launderings. Shirt A was the
least satisfactory in all classes. It averaged out as a Class 3 which
is medium.in standard. It must be remembered that Shirt A.made no
claims of wrinkle resistance or ease of care so that this factor can not
be held against the shirt, but none the less, it was far behind the other
three shirts in these observations.

Dimensigpal ggstorability. All of the shirts have a low percentage
of restorability meaning that they can all be easily restored to their
original shape by hand ironing.

Shirt A has the least percentage of restorability with Shirt D the
largest percentage. Shirts B and C are very similar in percentage of
restorability. It must be remembered that all four have a very good
restorability factor.

Abrasion resigtance. Shirt A, with the Jacquard weave with many
floats in the warp direction broke at 70 revolutions. Shirt B warps
lasted almost twice as long, to 131 revolutions, and Shirt 0 to 160
revolutions. In the tested 6 samples, Shirt D had no warp breaks even
when carried to 2000 revolutions, indicating thrt it far exceeded all
the others in abrasion resistance. This is due to the fact that Shirt
D is of 65% Dacron which is known to resist abrasion.

Filling yarns broke at All revolutions for Shirt B, 456 for Shirt
0 and 479 for Shirt A, so that all three had filling breaks at about the
same point. Shirt D, again far exceeded the others in that it had only

one filling break at 1925 revolutions.

Upon ten launderings, there was a decided increase in abrasion
resistance, in both warp and filling directions, except in the warp of
Shirt A which was only a decrease of 5%. Shirt C increased by 43.7%
in the warp and 29.6% in the filling.[ Shirt B increased 37.9% in the
warp and 53.6% in the filling. Shirt D went well beyond the abrasion
resistance of the others after launderings as well as before“

Shirt B showed complete destruction both before and after ten
launderings. Shirt 0 was next, and Shirt A followed. Still Shirt D
showed its outstanding properties of abrasions resistance in that it
showed no breakdown when carried past 2000 revolutions.

All shirts except D showed enough wear to be termed unusable after
600 revolutions before laundering, but not after laundering. Shirt D
showed absolutely no wear at 600 revolutions except some pilling and
soiling. Soiling seemed to increase somewhat after the ten launderings.

Shirt D was by far outstanding in the performance of abrasion
resistance. Shirt 0 would be second best with Shirt A third since the
warp wore so quickly, and Shirt B the least abrasive resistant.

All samples Showed such an increase in abrasion resistance after
the ten launderings to show that there had been a finish that had
washed out in laundering, to give greater wearing properties with small
decrease in crease recovery properties. These results substantiate
proof found in other studies that special finishes applied to fabrics
for the purpose of special properties in ease of care show loss of
strength and wear. When these finishes are washed out in laundering,

the fabric will show a gain in strength and wear.

21

Chlorine retention.~ Due to the great number of variations from the
standard procedure set by the L22 Standards, as well as to the small
sampling, this test did not show conclusive evidence for reporting of
data. The results showed as much gain in the breaking strength as loss.
Even though no comparison of the four can be drawn based on these results,
it can be said from comparisons of breaking strength of both unscOrched
and scorched samples with the dry breaking strength of non-treated
specimen that the damage caused by retained chlorine is very low in all
four cases thus proving that all would withstand a reasonable amount of

bleaching.
IV. SUBJECTIVE ANALYSIS

Ironing. Shirt D ironed the easiest after laundering even though it
was less wrinkle resistant than B or C. B and C both ironed with ease,
but not so easily as D, with both B and C ironing with the same amount
of effort. Shirt A needed much more effort to appear well ironed, but it
must be remembered again that they made no claim to be wash and wear.

Construction. Shirt A, except for buttons, has the best construction.
All the seams, even the armseye, are flat fell. The stitches are smaller,
the buttonholes are well finished, and the grain line is not off as bad
as the other shirts.

Shirt B would be next best since it is the least off grain and still
has the desired qualities of a well constructed shirt. Shirt D would be
next best since the back is on grain, but the fronts have the warp going

across the body making this not as desirable.

22

Shirt C would be the least desirable due to the fact that its grain-
1ine was more distorted than that of the other shirts.

Actually, all of the shirts would be highly successful as far as
construction but I list them in the order above for comparative analysis.

‘Eit. First, to determine fit as well as can be done with unlaun-
dered shirts, all shirts were purchased in my husband's size so that he
micht try them on for his opinions, as well as comparison to actual
measurements of the shirts,

ly'husband's comments were:

Shirt A: "Feels very comfortable"
"Does not bind"

Shirt Br "Feels thinner than others"
"Not too comfortable to skin, rough"
"More arm room"

Shirt C: "Binds a little in shoulders and arms"
”Everything else, fine”

Shirt D: "Real soft against skin, more so than others”
”Little close under arms"
"Material really soft"
Choices: Shirt A; "Mest comfortable of all, not fair test since
it has short sleeves."
Shirt D; "most comfortable of long sleeves.”
Since Shirt A is a short sleeve, it is not a comparable shirt to
the other long sleeved shirts so for a comparison of measurements, I
shall say that Shirt A would appear to be a very good fit, and base my
comparisons only on the long sleeved shirts, B, C, and D.
Shirt B appears to have the largest measurements throughout the

chart for measurements. Shirt D would be next, and Shirt C would be

the least.

In»

 

't

23
This would parallel my husband's comments on the roominess of Shirt
B especially through the armseye and the length of cap. The armseye of
Shirt B is 7/8" larger than Shirt 0 and 1/4" larger than Shirt D. The
cap length is 1/2' larger than Shirt C and 1/8" larger than Shirt D. The
yoke back width is 1 1/8" more than Shirt C and 7/8" more than Shirt D.
Shirt B is also Just a little longer at center back than the other two.
From these measurements mentioned above, it can be understood why

my husband said (Shirt C) "Binds a little in shoulders and arms".

r“;

CHAPTER IV
CONCLUSIONS

All of the shirts used in this study would make satisfactory
purchases. ‘My conclusions are based on the interpretation of data
results in relation to my own family'situation.

My husband and I are both teaching. Therefore, it is important
to my husband to have neat, clean white shirts to wear to school every
day. Also, as a working homemaker, time needed in caring for these
shirts must be a.minimum for me. The shirt must also be able to stand
up under commercial laundering when my time does not allow me to launder
my husband‘s white shirts. The price of the original shirt, as well as
its performance, are important to us.

Although Shirt A proved very high in breaking strength, construction,
and fit, it is far below the standards of easy care which my family
situation demands. Since the manufacturer made no claim.as to ease in
care, this does not disprove him. None the less, it does not meet the
performances of wrinkle resistance, crease recovery, and ease in ironing
that are musts for my family.

- Shirt D was extremely high in resistance to abrasion, far exceeding
all of the others. This proves that the potential wear in this shirt
is at least twice that of the other three. Its crease recovery is very
high, but not much more than the other shirts. The breaking strength

was greater than Shirts B and C, but not more than Shirt A. Elongation

 

n 1

 

25

was two to three times greater than the other three shirts. Shirt D
proved very high in all of the tests made, except in dimensional stability,
in wrinkle resistance, and in construction. In dimensional stability,
Shirt D shrank up to 2% in the filling. In wrinkle resistance, it did
not look nearly as good as Shirts B and C after laundering. In conp
struction, the fronts were cut off grain. Since the price is $2 to
$3 more than Shirts B and C which proved very high in most of these save
factors, I do not feel that the difference in price is worth the small
difference in performance characteristics. Therefore, I do not feel that
Shirt D would be a wise choice for my family, mainly due to the more
money involved.

This leaves my choice to either Shirts B or C. These two shirts
proved to very similar in characteristics of performance. Where Shirt
B was lower in warp breaking strength, Shirt C was lower in filling
breaking strength. The same was true for elongation, and crease recov-
ery. Both of these shirts ironed with the same amount of effort and
looked identical after each launderinr. These similarities are noted
throughout the study.

For this reason, my choice for a white dress shirt for my family
situation would be Shirt B. Shirt B is 31 less than Shirt C. It has
a little better crease recovery, dimensional stability, and fit of the
garment than does Shirt C. The only performance characteristics in
which it falls below Shirt 0 is in abrasion resistance. This would
mean it would wear out faster, but when six Shirt B's could be purchased
for $1 less than five Shirt C's, this wear factor could be distributed
over more shirts for less money.. It can also be noted that for the price

of three Shirt D's, seven Shirt B's could be purchased which is more

iii

if“

 

 

"H‘-

 

It

26
than twice as many to distribute any wear. Also, three shirts in my
husband's profession would not be enough to get him through one week.

In relation to the specific purposes of this study, the above
information compares the fabrics used in the selected shirts giving
the characteristics outstandingly good as well as bad.

The relationship of price was the final factor in deciding as to
which shirt I would choose. Price, then, in this study does not mean
that the more one pays for a garment, the more one can expect in perform-
ance. On the contrary, the difference in price from Shirt B to C is'
$1, but the performances vary only slightly.

The two nationally advertised brand name shirts, Shirts C and D,
did not prove extensively better or worse than the other two shirts
tested. In fact, with no more difference in Shirts B and C than shown,
it might be indicated, that the extra price for Shirt C is at least in
part for the advertising of that shirt rather than for its performance.

My choice for a man's white dress shirt for my particular circum-
stances is Shirt B. It showed the desirable performance factors and
is the best buy for the money. It must be remembered that other persons
will have their own set of values on which they would base an opinion
which might well differ from mine.

Further study in this area of men's white dress shirts should
involve more test shirts, as well as include a practical use factor which
this study did not go into.

More testing could be done to bring out more factors in the charac-
teristics of the tested shirts, such as, reaction to starch, commercial

laundering, and comfort (air permeability, as well as absorption). Tests

could be made on the actual strength of construction points such as
seams, or interfacing. Abrasion tests could be made on points of wear
such as the collar and cuffs as well as buttonholes.

This is but a small problem covering a small area of men's white
dress shirts. It has satisfied both my husband's and my curiosity as
to wise choices for us in the selection of white dress shirts, since
the selected shirts used in this study were typical of purchases we

would make.

 

é“

*5

,5?»

CHAPTER V
SUKHABY
I. YARN CONSTRUCTION

All yarns in the four shirts were single structure. They all have
a yarn number close to 40 except the filling yarn in Shirt D which has
a 60. All yarns have been given a "Z" twist. Shirt A has the greatest
amount of twist, with Shirt D not much less. All shirts have a higher

warp twist than filling, except in Shirt D.
II. FABRIC CBADACERISTICS

All shirts are of plain weave, except Shirt A which is a Jacquard.
Shirt A is the heaviest in weight per square yard and Shirt D is the
lightest in weight.

The count in Shirts A, B, and C, are very similar. Shirt D has
fewer yarns in the warp and more yarns in the filling.

Shirt A had the greatest strength in both warp and filling. Shirt
D was second in warp strength, but third in filling strength. Shirt C
was third in warp strength, but a low fourth in filling strength. Shirt
B was fourth in warp strength, but second in filling strength.

All of the shirts gained strength when wet.

Shirt D had the greatest elongation, both dry and wet. Shirt B

had the least elongation in the warp and Shirt C had the least in the

 

‘1

filling. All except the fillings in Shirts C and D lost elongation

when wet.
III. FABRIC PEI-{FOE ALICE

Shirt D had the greatest crease recovery in the warp and Shirt B
had the greatest in the filling. Shirt 0 was second in warp crease
recovery and Shirt D was second in filling. Shirt A had the least
crease recovery of any of the shirts.

Shirt B had the greatest dimensional stability to laundering, while
Shirt D had the least. Shirt C had the second greatest dimensional
stability.

Both Shirt B and C had good wrinkle resistance, with Shirt D not
far behind. Shirt.A was far below the other three in this performance
characteristic.

All of the shirts had a low percentave of restorability by bond
ironing.

Shirt D far exceeded all of the other three shirts in resistance
to abrasion. Shirt C was next, but far below Shirt D. Shirt B showed
the least resistance to abrasion, except for the warp floating yarns of
Shirt A..

The damage caused by retained chlorine is low in all four shirts and
was not used as a factor of comparison.

Shirt D touched up the best upon hand ironing, with Shirts B and C
requiring only a little more effort than D. Shirt A required the

greatest amount of effort in ironing.

c2?

 

 

30
Shirt A had the best construction, with Shirt B next, and Shirt C

having the poorest construction.

Shirt A had the best fit of all the shirts in both my husband's
opinion and by actual measurements, but since it was short sleeved, it
is not fair to compare it to long sleeved shirts. Of the long sleeved
shirts, Shirt B had the best fit by measurements, with Shirt C having
the poorest fit.

Upon ten launderings, all of the shirts appeared to have lost some
of their finish applied for ease in care. This was most evident in the
great increase in abrasion resistance of all foui'shirts. At the same
time, they did not lose much of their crease resistance, except in
Shirt A.

All of the shirts used in this study would make satisfactory
purchases for the consumer. Based on my own family standards, I would
select Shirt B as the most performance characteristics for the least

money.

APPEI‘IDIX

SAMPLES OF SHIRT FABRICS

A
100% Pima Cotton
Japanese
Short Sleeve
$3.98

C
100% Cotton
Arrow ”Chase"
$5.00

USED

IN STUDY

B
100% Pima and Combed Cotton
Montgomery Ward
$3.98

D
65% Dacron 35% Cotton
Arrow "Decton"

$6.95

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Brand Name

Price

Fiber'Content

Style

Place of Purchase

Date of Purchase

Label Information.

Suggestions For
Laundering

PURCHASE DATA OF
A
Torino
(Japanese)
$3.98
100% Pima

tton

Short Sleeve
Two Pocket
Permanent Stays

Detroit,
Michigan

June, 1960

Single Needle
Sanforized

Do Not Starch

SHIRTS USED IN THIS STUDY
B C

Golden Brent
(Montgomery

Arrow "Chase"

Ward)
$3.98 $5.00
100% Pine and 100% Cotton

Combed Cotton
Blended

Long Sleeve Long Sleeve
Permanent Stays Permanent Stays
Two-Way Cuff French Cuffs
(button or wear:

with cuff links)

Traverse City Traverse City,
Michigan Michigan
July, 1960 July, 1960
WhSh and Wear Wash and wear
Sanforized Sanforized
NonéYellowing

Finish

Machine Wash wash By Machine

Can Use Bleach By Hand 0r By
Tumble or Drip Commercial
Dry, Touch-Up Laundry
Iron Tumble Dry Or
Drip Dry
Do Not Starch

Press with Cool
Iron

3&2

D

Arrow "Decton'

$6.95

65% Dacron and
35% Cotton Madras

Long Sleeve
Permanent Stays
Convertible Cuff
(wear buttons or
with cuff links)

Lansing,
Michigan

August , 1960

Wash and Wear
Sanforized

Wash By Machine
By Hand 0r By
Commercial
Laundry

Tumble DryAAt
Low-Temperature
Or Drip Dry
Press With A
Cool Iron

 

III!
.‘1
I'll"...
1":

 

.V

Tarp Construction:
Yarn Structure

Yarn HUmber*
Direction of Twist
Amount of Twist*

Fabric Analysis:
weave
weight/ Sq. yd. *
Count

Breaking Strength“

Elongation*

Fabric Performance:
Crease Rscovery*

Dimensional Change

wrinkle Resistance*

Fill
Wart
Fill
warp
Fill

Fill

Warp
Fill
Warp-dry
wet
Fill-dry
wet
Warp—dry
wet
Fill-dry
wet

Warp
Fill
warp—let
10th
Fill-1st
10th

Dimensional Restorability*

Abrasion Resistance*
(in cycles)

Warp
Fill

warp
Fill

Complete Destruction
Damage Caused by Retained

Chlorine*

*Based'on Average Results

‘Warp
Fill

26 tpi
l9 tpi

Jacquard

7.8 ozs
138

71

56.3 lbs
63.8 lbs
22.3 lbs
22.6 lbs
24.8%
29.4%
10.6%
11.6%

Class 3.0

.7%
.6%

70
479/

1000

,122.9%
" 300%

SUI‘B‘AEI’ OF DATA

single
single
42

35

Z .

Z

21 tpi
15 tpi

Plain
7.4.028

141

62
36.0 lbs
36.6 lbs
20.3 lbs
21.1. lbs
14.6%
15.9%
8.4%
8.3%

Class 4.8

07% I
.993
131

411

825

41.8%
,1 8.9%

z .
l9 tpi
18 tpi

Plain

7.2 028
138

66

36.8 lbs
36.8 lbs
9.8 lbs

12.7 lbs

14.9%

16.1%
4.6%
5.2%

Class 4.8

.7%
.9%

160

456/
950

41.4%
,4 3.3%

37

19 tpi
21 tpi

Plain
6.8 028

119

77

55.4 lbs
65.4.lbs
16.8 lbs
21.1. lbs
64.5%
59.5%
28. 5%
28.0%

Class 4.4

.8%
.9%

600,!
1925
2000

- 9.5%
r‘ 2.7%

Summer OF 0511013
Before and After 10 Launderings
A B

Fabric Analysis: before after ' 56 change before ‘after % change
Weight/sq. yd.” 7.8 028. 7.5 025.5- 3.7% 7.1. 028. 7.1. 02.5. f 0.
Count’ Warp 1'38 131. s- 2.9% 141 11.1 . 0

F111 71 74 7‘ 3.3% 62 61 - 1.3%
Breaking Strength“r
Dry Warp 56.3 lbs.53.0 lbs - 5.8% 36.0 lbs 30.4 lbs 45.6%

Fill 22.3 lbs 19.0 lbs ~15.0% 20.3 lbs 20.2 lbs - .2%
Elongation“ Dry warp 24.8% 29.0% #14. 5% 14.6% 13.3% - 8.6%
Fill 10.6% 11.1% ,1 4.6% 8.4% 8.375 - .15

Fabric Performance :-

Wrinkle Recoveryfl

Warp 36% 30% 46.7% 68% 63% - 7.4%
Fill 53% 48% - 9.4% 83% 67% 49.3%

Abrasion Resistance” .
(in cycles) Warp 7O 66 - 5.7% 131 211 597.9%
Fill 479 1209 /60.1.% 411 886 {53.6%
Complete Breakdown 1000 1975 7‘49.4% 825 1476 {44.1%

C D
Fabric Analygis: before after % change before after % change
Weight/sq. yd.* 7.2 023 7.1. ms ,1 2.8% 6.8 ozs 6.8 025 :0 %
count! warp 138 138 ,-, o 5. 119 120 ,1 .75
11 66 67 ,l 2.4% 77 78 ,1 2.05
Breaking Strength”

Dry Warp 34.8 lbs 31.0 lbs -11.0% 55.1. lbs 53.6 lbs - 3.2%

.8111 9.8 lbs 12.4 lbs {21.2% 16.8 lbs 16.5 lbs - 1.5%
Elongation* Dry Warp 14.9% 12.9% 43.3% 61.. 5% 53.9% 46.5%
Fill 4.6% 4.95 ,l 6.1% 28.5% 29.4% K 3.3%

Fabric Performance:

Wrinkle Recovery"

Warp 77% ..I-‘5 - 7.8% 80% 73% - 8.8%
F111 79% 74% - 6.3% 77% 73% - 5.6%
Abrasion Resistance . .
(in 0370198) Warp 160 281. 503.7% 600/ 6005‘ 0 %
Fill 456 - 635 {29.65 1925 600,!

Complete Breakdown 950 1572 {39.6% 2000,! 2068

Rank In Comparison Of Performances
Ranked" 1 Through 1. With 1. Being Best

Breaking Strength

dm Mm
Fill
w“ %m
Fill
Elongation

dry Warp
Fill
wet Warp
Fill
Crease Recovery Warp
Fill

Dimensional Change
warp lst.
10th.
Fill lst.
10th.

Wrinkle Resistance

Dimensional Restorability
Warp
Fill

Abrasion Resistance ‘Warp
Fill

Complete Destruction

Ironing

Price

Construction

Fit measurement

husband's opinion

SUEKABY CHART

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