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LIBRARY Michigan State University PLACE IN RETURN BOX to remove this checkout from your record. To AVOID FINES return on or before date due. MAY BE RECALLED with earlier due date if requested. DATE DUE DATE DUE DATE DUE 2/05 czlcficmateouejndd-pAs //A/STUDY OF DIVERGENCE FROM.TENETS OF THE SEVENTH-DAY ADVENTIST CHURCH BY SOME FRESHHEN WOMEN STUDENTS OF SOUTHERN MISSIONARY COLLEGE IN REGARD TO CLOTHING WORN TO RELIGIOUS SERVICES ON SABBAT§//’ by Thelma Hemme Cushman // A PROBLEM Submitted to Michigan State University In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts 1965 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation and extend recognition to those people who contributed to the develop— ment of this study: Dr. Elinor Nugent for guidance and encouragement throughout the direction of the study. Dr. Mary Gephart for constructive suggestions and criticism of the written presentation. Dr. Joanne B. Eicher and Mrs. Frederica Neville for guidance in initiating the design of the study. Mrs. Thomas Anderson, who administered the questionnaire. The writer's husband and friends who extended confidence and encouragement during the completion of this study and throughout the graduate program. 11 TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 10 INTRODUWION.OO0.0..0000.000.0.... 0000000000 0......0.0 Statement of the Problem ............... ......... . II. “mowLmY 09.......0....00...0..0.0 ..... ......0..... The Instrument ........ .................... ........ me Pretest .......00....0...0.000.0..00.000.00... me Setting 000.0.00.....0..0.0.00..0...........00. me smple 0.0.000.00......0....................... Administration of the Instrument .................. mfinition Of Tems 0 0 O . O . . 0 0 . O . . . . O . . . 0 O 0 0 . . 0 0 . 0 . 0 III. THE STANDARD OR IDEALS FOR CLOTHING CHOICES .......... IV. ACTUAL DRESS PRACTIGS 0 0 0 O 0 . 0 0 . 0 . O . . '0 . . . 0 . 0 0 . 0 . 0 . 0 . . 0 V. INFLUENCES 0F OTHERS UPON DRESS PRACTICES VI. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS, AND RECOMMENDATIONS Sm mid Omelmim 000000.007...0.000.00.0...00 Recmendations 0.0.00.0000....00...........0....00 BIBLIOGRAPHY ssssssssossoossssssssssssssssass-assessoossss APPENDIX A'-C00f1dent181 questionnaire osssssssssssssossso APPENDIX B--Definition of Terms iii Page 10 11 13 16 17 29 35 45 45 52 57 68 LIST OF TABLES TABLE- Page 1. Number and Percentage of Fathers and Mothers of Freshmen women Students With Church Affiliation ................ 14 2. Number and Percentage of Responses Given by Freshmen Whmen Indicating What They Considered Proper Clothing Items for Church Wear This Season ........................... 18 3. Descriptions of Outfits Rated for Appropriateness for Church Services by Freshmen College Women ............. 21 4. Ratings by Number and Percentage of Each of Four Outfits for Appropriateness for Church Services by College Resmmwmen ..0.00.0.0...0.0.0000......00...0.....O. 22 5. Numbers of Words and Phrases Used to Describe the Appear- ance of Community and College Women Named as the Most Appropriately Dressed for Church ...................... 27 6. Enumeration and Comments by Students Concerning Clothing They Have Observed'WOrn to Church They Believe Is Inappropriate 0..........000......0..00................ 28 7. Frequency of Specific Dress Practices Followed by Fresh- ‘men women.When Attending Church Services on Sabbath ... 30 8. Number and Percentage of Respondents' Answers to the Question, "Did You Feel That You Were Dressed Appro- priately in This Outfit?” (Outfit Wern to Church the Last Time They Attended). Desired Changes Are Given in Response to the Subquestion, "If No, What would You Have Liked to Change?" ...................... 33 9. Self-Ratings of the Way the Respondents Felt They Dressed for Church Given in Numbers and Percentages ........... 34 10. Distribution of Responses in Number and Percentage in Response to the Question, "If Your Girl Friend Did Not Like Some Particular Garment That You Wear to Church (That You Like), What Would You Do?" .................. 36 iv TABLE 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. Page Distribution of Responses in Number and Percentage in Response to the Question, "If Your Bay Friend Did Not Like Some Particular Garment That You Wear to Church (That You Like), What Would You Do?" ................ 36 Distribution of Responses in Number and Percentage in Response to the Question, "If Your Parents Did Not Like Some Particular Garment That You Wear to Church (That You Like), What Would You Do?" ................ 37 Distribution of Responses in Number and Percentage in Response to the Question, "If Your Teacher Did Not Like Some Particular Garment That You Wear to Church (That You Like), What Would You Do?" ................ 38 Distribution of Responses in Number and Percentage in Response to the Question, "If Your Dean of Wbmen Did Not Like Some Particular Garment That You Wear to Church (That You Like), What Would You Do?" . . . . . . . . . 39 Distribution of Responses in Number and Percentage in Response to the Question, "If Someone Criticized the Clothes You Wore to Church Last Sabbath, the Criticism That would Bother You Most Would Be From What Person?" ....................................... 44 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Statement of the Problem The purpose of this study is to explore the clothing behavior of freshmen students of Southern Missionary College who reside in the Women's Residence Hall and to record some of the reasons which are given for non-conformity in the matter of dress worn to church as pre- scribed by the college. It is also the purpose of this study to investigate which items are worn to religious services, how many stu- dents deviate from churdh rules in this regard and in what manner, and in so far as possible, to relate deviants to family, teacher, and peer influence. The Seventh-day Adventist Church has accepted as one of its basic tenets the challenge of Matthew 28:19,20 to go forth and teach the gospel to all nations.1 In order to carry out this admonition, the Church has established educational institutions to prepare workers for service in the United States and abroad. Southern Missionary College at Collegedale, Tennessee, is one of the related schools of the Church which is dedicated to this purpose. Graduates of this college go out to do missionary work under the auspices of the Seventh- day Adventist organization. 1Ring James version of the Bible. .L‘ ‘tri' 11 o‘ 2 In actordance with the teachings of the Church, students at Southern Missionary College are to conduct themselves in a.manner which conforms to the ideals of the Church. Standards are set forth for the regulation of various areas of behavior, including the manner of dress. The Church bases its standards upon what it believes the Bible teaches; upon the writings of one of its early church leaders, Mrs. Ellen G. White; and upon its interpretation of these principles for modern.times. Each summer the deans of women from the denominational colleges and secondary schools of North America meet with representatives of the General Conference of Seventh-day Adventists to study ideals of behavior. The area of clothing is one of those studied. Any change in dress regulations is passed on to the schools and is incorporated in student handbooks. Some of the principles are spelled out in spe- cifics regarding certain clothing items. Some items, such as shorts, are prohibited on the campuses. In other matters such as styles, colors, fabrics, etc., the student is allowed and encouraged to exercise his judgment and to express his individuality in clothing selection. The Holy Scriptures set forth principles of Christian dress quite clearly. In the New Testament of the Bible, Goodspeed's translation of I Timothy 2:9,10 it reads, "Women for their part are to dress mod- estly and sensibly in proper clothes, not adorning themselves by braid- ing their hair, or with gold or pearls or expensive clothing, but as it is appropriate for women who profess to be religious, with good actions." Weymouth's translation of the same scripture is a little different. "I would have the women dress becomingly, with modesty and sobriety, not with plaited hair or gold or pearls or costly clothes.‘ .- u T. . u s r r .\. ’ s. .s . a. .I an .t . s l n I I w n u I I v s s V I. .. - s..- 3 The instructions given by Mrs. Ellen G. White are not believed to be contrary to this admonition but rather an elaboration and sim- plification of the principles set forth. The general recommendations for Seventh-day Adventist Church attire can be stated briefly. Cloth- ing should be simple and unpretending, without profuse ornamentation, modest, neat and clean, appropriate, of becoming colors, and suited for service. Special instructions regarding Sabbath dress have been given by Mrs. Ellen G. White. There should be no display of apparel; for this encourages irreverence. The attention of the people is often called to this or that fine article of dress, and thus thoughts are introduced that should have no place in the hearts of the worshipers. . . . The parading of bows and ribbons, ruffles and feathers, and gold and silver ornaments is a species of idolatry and is wholly in- appropriate for the sacred service of God, where the eye of the worshiper should be single to His glory. . . . Let none dishonor God's sanctuary by their showy apparel.2 All should be taught to be neat, clean, and orderly in their dress but not to indulge in that external adorning which is wholly inapprOpriate for the sanctuary. There should be no dis- play of apparel; for this encourages irreversnce.3 In a summary statement Mrs. White says that "Special care will be taken to dress in a manner that will show a sacred regard for the holy Sabbath, and the worship of God."4 2Ellen G. White, Testimonies for the Church (Mbuntain View, California: Pacific Press Publishing Association, 1948), Vol. 5, p. 499. 3Ellen G. White, Testimonies for the Church (Mountain View, California: Pacific Press Publishing Association, 1952). Vol. 4, p. 499. aEllen G. White, SelectedfiMesggges (Washington D. 0.: Review and Herald Publishing Association, 1958), p. 476. 4 Individuals who are not affiliated with the Seventh-day Adventist Church also have some definite recommendations on what is proper to wear to church. Eleanor Roosevelt said, ”Your dress for church should be quiet and unobtrusive. Sports clothes should never be worn. Women should not wear low-necked or sleeveless dresses."5 Church clothes are less casual than school clothes and not as dressy as afternoon clothes. They are colorful but con- servative. A hat is always worn to church, but you should never wear sleeveless dresses, sweaters, or sport oxfords.6 Mabel D. Erwin believes that, "For church you should be dressed with restraint . . . no 'dolling up' even for Christmas, Easter, or Yom.Kippur. . . never gaudy."7 She gives some specifics in regard to church attire. It is customary to wear hat and gloves at morning church services. . . . You may not go bareheaded except as a child. . . . It is poor taste to appear 1: dressy, informal cos— tumes including voluminous veils, sequin trims, evening hats, cartwheel hats, fancy hair styles with flowers instead of a hat, rustling silks, strong perfume, striking make-up, too bouffant or too tight skirts, cocktail types, low necklines, bare arms and legs: or in too casual attire such as sandals, anklets, sweaters, blue jeans, and suede jackets. Cleanliness neatness, polish, and press are the keynotes.8 Gaylord Hauser describes the appropriately dressed woman as one who wears simple lines, is never fancy, extravagant or gaudy. She 5Eleanor Roosevelt, Eleanor Roosevelt's Book g; Common Sense Etiquette (New York: The Macmillan Company, 1962), p. 159. 6Hazel Thompson Craig, Clothes With Character (Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 1941), p. 109. 7Mabel D. Erwin, Clothing for Moderns (New York: The Macmillan Company, 1949), pp. 148-149. 81bid. 149. 5 can have a small number of well chosen garments and ignore the "style" of the moment. Her clothing will not be in such profusion that it screams for attention.9 The students are familiar with the dress regulations before entrance at Southern Missionary College. Each college applicant is requested to read these regulations and to pledge a.willingness to abide by all the regulations of the college at the time of applica—' tion for admission. The dress regulations are also mailed to the parents so that a suitable wardrobe may be planned for the student which will be within the requirements of the school. Southern Missionary College gives specific dress regulations in its handbook, SEQ and __Y_9_g Student Handbook. While dress is ulthmately an individual matter, good sense and good taste require that certain general standards be taken into consideration as you plan your wardrobe. Modesty in dress for both men and women is not only considered good taste, but it is highly desirable from the standpoint of economy and the imr pression it gives to others. FOR.YOUNG WOMEN 1. Standards of good taste demand that the shoulder and upper part of the arm be covered. This means that all dresses and blouses should have sleeves. Cap sleeves are not sleeves. 2. The neckline should be modest--not cut law in front, back, or off the shoulders. 3. On a few occasions during the year many women choose to dress formally; however, you need not feel that your college wardrobe must contain a formal. A list of standards governing formal attire is given below. 4. Sheet or transparent blouses may not be worn. 5. Tight sweaters or skirts or form-fitting clothes of any kind are not to be worn. 6. All dresses and skirts must be long enough to cover the knees at all times in any standing or sitting position. 9Gaylord Hauser, Look Younger, Live Longer (New York: Farrar Straus and Company, 1950), pp. 192-195. 1. - ... «I. u o . at. . 6 7. Party dresses are inappropriate for church wear. (Dresses that dip in the back are considered party dresses.) 8. Shorts, slacks, toreadors, slim-jims, jeans, or pedal- pushers of any kind are not to be worn on the campus at any time or in any public place. The regulation recrea- tion and gymn attire (black White Stag clam-diggers) may be worn on special occasions (see recreation rules). 9. Artificial appearances resulting from the use of cosmetics, hair-dyes, etc., are out of place and are not permitted at SMC . 10. Jewelry, such as rings, necklaces, necklace watches, lockers, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and anklets, is not to be worn while attending SMC. FORMALS 1. All formals must have sleeves. A cap sleeve or a ribbon or net drape isngEDa sleeve. 2. All formals must be long enough to cover the knees in any standing or sitting position, regardless of the number of crinolins worn. 3. If a stole is worn, it must be attached to the dress so as to make it a part of the garment. A net or lace stole must be lined. 4. A dress that dips in the back must come up to within 6“ of the neckline. A round neck dress that exposes too much of the back mmst be worn with a stole or a jacket. NOTE: All formals will be checked before the first formal occasion.10 In spite of the regulations regarding dress and the ideals of the Church, it has been observed that some students at Southern Missionary College do not conform entirely to these rules regarding dress and. appearance. Although deviations may be slight and vary‘with the individual's appraisal of the specific time and occasion, there are nonetheless, deviations which are detectable by members of the student body at Southern Missionary College and by teachers and guests on the campus. The purpose of this study is to discover the amount of deviation from the social norms of the college regarding clothing worn to the church service on Sabbath at Southern Missionary College. Since 10Southern Missionary College, SMC 59g,You Student Handbook (Collegedale, Tennessee: Southern Missionary College, 1963), pp. 25-27. 7 it has been Observed that all the students do not conform at all times to the prescribed regulations in the college handbook, §MC_ and flag, this study was designed to determine what items of clothing students wear to church service; what they consider acceptable attire for Sabbath worship; and to collect stated reasons for selecting clothing items worn to religious services on Sabbath. From the investigation of such data it is hoped to discover, in so far as possible, reasons for deviation from the prescribed dress, and to relate them to family, teacher, and peer influence. The next chapter will discuss the.methodology of the study. Chapters III, IV, and V’will be concerned with an analysis of data showing the ideals of dress as stated by the students; their image of appropriate dress for religious services; actual dress practices or clothing behavior of the student; and the influence of others upon clothing behavior. The last chapter contains the summary and con- clusions of the study. CHAPTER II METHODOLOGY This is an exploratory and descriptive study which attempts, by means of a questionnaire, to discover some factors affecting the dress practices of some of the freshmen girls who reside in the dormitory at Southern Missionary College. The Instrument Since the questionnaire can yield honest and frank responses while maintaining anonymity of the respondent, it was selected as a means of collecting data for this study. Economy was another factor in the selection of this instrument. The expenditure of finances as well as time was kept to a.minimum by the use of the questionnaire. Data for this study were obtained from the compilation of re- sponses to a questionnaire administered to a group of 65 college freshmen, ages 17-25, who resided in the Women's Residence Hall. A purposeful quota sample technique was used; in other words, the women asked to fill in the questionnaire were selected on the basis of their college status and their residence. The questions were asked in order to obtain a list of clothing items worn to religious services at this particular college, to deter- mine how many and in what manner they deviate from church rules 8 4.. v. 9 for Sabbath dress as prescribed by the college. The first section of the instrument contained qUestions relating to the background of the pepulation. Questions were asked in order to determine the extent of attendance at Seventh-day Adventist elementary and secondary schools. The ages of respondents were obtained as well as the age at which they became members of the Church. They were asked to give the church af- filiation of each parent and to tell whether their parents lived together. The students were asked to check all the clothing items listed they considered proper to wear to church this season. The response to the next question was the rating by number of four different out- fits in the order of their appropriateness for church. These outfits included one for party wear, one for sports wear, and two outfits for church. One of the church outfits omitted a hat. The respondents were then asked to complete an outline of items worn to church at their last attendance. In another question the respondents checked the items that best described their usual dress practice regarding specific items of clothing worn to church. Several questions were directed at securing information concerning persons who influenced their clothing choices and whether they felt appropriately dressed for church as well as for other occasions. These questions were similar to some of those contained in the instrument used by Betty Wass in a study of clothing behavior.1 It is hoped the findings from this study will indicate cues for the direction of further clothing research in relation to 1Betty Marguerite Wass, "Clothing as Related to Role Behavior of Ninth Grade Girls" (unpublished.Master's thesis, Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts, Michigan State University, 1962) Item 6, page 79, as found in Wass, Appendix. "H \.._ .1 'I'" ...'.A ‘1 s 'i . . -: - r . l‘ . 'I' - 5. .H v ' . . {..P' , l.": ' '. "ff “" y a '1. I'- .5 10 clothing behavior. Since clothing does affect the psychological, sociological and economic aspects of women's lives, people in the clothing field can be of assistance, as well as clergymen, psycholo- gists, and other professional people, in helping women to find ways of clarifying their image and practices of selecting appropriate attire for religious services. Pretest The questionnaire was pretested with a group of college freshmen girls on the campus of Andrews University, a church related school at Berrien Springs, Michigan. The purpose of the pretest was to determine the approximate amount of time which would need to be alloted for answering it, the interpretations which students would have for various items, and the types of responses which would be ob— tained from.the girls. Twenty girls filled in the questionnaire. The instructions advised the students to ask questions if any of the items were not clearly understood. As a result of the pretest a small number of items were reworded or omitted. Since there seemed little difficulty in answering, the questionnaire was used. As a result of the pretest some typographical errors were dis- covered and corrected. Two errors were not detected. On page 3 question 4, the age bracket 16-17 was omitted and on page 7 question ' was omitted. 12, the category "average' The instrument was comparatively easy to administer. It did not take a great deal of time to answer the questions and those who read the instrument were interested in knowing the findings of this study. .5.“ v / 11 The Setting Southern.Missionary College is located in Collegedale, Tennessee, about eighteen miles from Chattanooga. Collegedale is unincorporated and has a population of about 1,800. The next town of any size, Cleveland, is about fifteen miles north. The community of Collegedale is situated in a little valley surrounded by gentle rolling hills. The railroad is to one side of the valley and although there is no station, the trains stop to leave the mail Monday through Friday. Since Seventh-day Adventists are Sabbatarians the mail train does not stop on Saturdays and neither is the post office open on Saturdays. The post office is staffed by Seventh-day Adventists and is open on Sundays. Saturday mail is left at another station until it is collected and distributed on Sunday. For many years the college used Ooltewah, a tiny town two miles distant, as its post office. The Collegedale community has developed as a result of the college being located there. Southern Missionary College believes in the education of the whole being. True education means more than the pursual of a certain course of study. It means more than a preparation for the life that now is. It has to do with the whole being, and with the whole period of existence possible to man. It is the harmonious de- velopment of the physical, the mental, and the spiritual powers. It prepares the student for the joy of service in this world and for the higher joy of wider service in the World to come.2 As one means of meeting this ideal, the college has developed industries which employ students on a part-time basis. They not only earn money to help defray school expenses but they learn some skills 2Ellen G. White, Education, (Mountain View, California: Pacific Press Publishing Association, 1952), p. 13. 12 that can help them, if needed, to earn a livelihood in the future. Some of these industries are engaged in interstate commerce and supply products to as many as 27 states. The following industries are college owned or sponsored: bakery, book bindery, printing press, spring factory, cabinet shop, commercial laundry, mercantile, super market, service station, and broom factory. Students defray expenses in other ways such as janitor service, laboratory assistants, dormitory monitors, readers, secretaries, cafeteria work, yard work, etc. Except for essential work, sudh as in the cafeteria, boiler house, night watch, etc., the work.week ends at noon on Friday and resumes at 7:30 arm. Sunday. This aids the student, as well as other’workers, to prepare and be ready for the Sabbath which begins at sunset on Friday and ends at sunset on Saturday. About 600 students live in the residence halls and about 300 are married and live with their families in the community. A very few single students live with relatives or friends in the area. Students and faculty are expected to attend religious services on Sabbath. No check is made of faculty attendance but dormitory students are asked, on their word of honor, to fill out an attendance record. Dormitory rooms are checked during church service to determine illness and reasons for not attending church. The students who live in the residence halls come from a variety of environments. Usually about 35 states and several foreign countries are represented in the student body. Foreign missionaries send their students back to the United States for secondary and college education. This results in a variety of socioeconomic levels also. Some students 13 from the Seuthern Highlands come from log cabin homes and must work their entire way through school even though this requires five or six years. There are always a few students who have cars and finances enough so that they do not have to do remunerative work while in school. The largest group receives some regular financial support from home or elsewhere. Many students earn enough during the summerMmonths so they can, by part-time employment, pay all their expenses during the school year. The Sample The sample selected was made up of 65 freshmen women who lived in the Women's Residence Hall. All were members of the Seventh—day Adventist Church. Except for two, all were between the ages of 17 and 20. One was between 21 and 25 years of age and one failed to give her age bracket. All but eight respondents, 12 per cent, had attended a church related school before enrolling at Southern.Missionary College. Twenty—eight, 43 per cent, attended church school for all eight grades and forty-seven, 72 per cent, attended Seventh-day Adventist secondary schools for all four years. Fourteen, 22 per cent, had never attended a church school and eight, 12 per cent, had never attended a Seventh- day Adventist secondary school. Even though all the respondents were members of the church, this is not the case with the parents.3 Sixty mothers, 92 per cent, and forty-three fathers, 66 per cent, are Seventh-day Adventist church members. One indicated that her father was "part Seventh-day Adventist." Another stated that her father was a clergyman, but she did not state the denomination. The latter is not included in the ‘1 3Table 1 I ... 'd .- O" . ,1 -. O . . . l k. .. 9 V' 4 r . . , Y1 1) s 3" ' v‘ .1 . ‘.‘ "n. :m n) .'..- .u «p. "NIH-1 - 2. .13" . *‘2 ' . A .. 'f . , P a. l 3 i . -’ 1. '.'~ c ‘ .l j 0 ‘1 ‘ 7H 1‘ ‘ 0v '-‘3;\' '1q' 1- _)I . :’ 1‘1: '(3 1* .Jr'f .. "L31 1“ _. [we] 14 TABLE 1 NUMBER AND PERCENTAGE OF FATHERS AND MOTHERS OF FRESHMEN WOMEN STUDENTS WITH CHURCH AFFILIATION ...; A A A --.- ... - .-- - V - 9 A ~w--- - - Church Affiliation Fathers Mothers No. Percentage No. - Percentage Baptist 2 3 2 3 Catholic 1 2 Christian 1 2 Clergy 1 2 Episcopal 1 2 Presbyterian 1 2 Seventh-day Adventist +43 66 6O 92 None 12 18 3 5 Deceased 2 3 Omitted 1 2 g) +One of these is deceased 15 forty-three who stated that their fathers were members of the church, although it is highly possible that he is. Twenty-four students, 37 per cent, come from homes in which both parents believe the Seventh-day Adventist doctrines and are church members; two said that neither of their parents were members of this denomination. One has parents who are both affiliated with the Baptist Church. One girl comes from a home in which neither parent is a member of any church. Of those fathers who belong to other faiths two are Baptists, one is Catholic, one is Presbyterian, one is Episcopalian, and one is Christian. Two mothers are Baptists. Two have deceased fathers. All the mothers are living. Fifty-nine students, 91 per cent, indicated that their parents live together. Two mothers are widowed. This means, then, that in only four cases do the girls come from homes in which the parents do not live together. The sample comes from a variety of environments and geographic areas. In the college there are students from nearly every state in the United States and from several foreign countries. Some students come from.mountain cabins in the Southern Highlands while others claim Los Angeles as their home. There are differences in speech, customs, and socioeconomic levels. Administration of the Instrument The revised questionnaire was administered to 65 college fresh- men girls who resided in the Women's Residence Hall at Southern Missionary College, Collegedale, Tennessee. In order to obtain indi- vidual and as unbiased responses as possible, the instrument was 16 administered to the sample as a group. The respondents answered the questions at the close of a very brief worship service. The one who ad- ministered the questionnaire is a home economist (graduate of the university of Tennessee) and.was unknown to the population.“ Ber appearance, use of lipstick and earrings, identified her as not be- longing to the Seventh-day Adventist Church. From her presentation of the instrusent, the girls had no way of knowing for whom they were answering the questions. They were asked not to write their names on the questionnaire because it was to be done anonymously. They did not converse with one another. These steps were taken to insure, as far as possible, honest and sincere responses. The questionnaire was formulated and administered to determine the understandings that freshmen dormitory girls have of appropriate dress for the church service; to determine the self-image of actual dress practice; and to determine factors influencing selection of clothing for church attendance. Definition of Terms The terms party dress, tradigiggg; clothigg, appropriate dress, inapprgpriate dress, modest dress, and immodest dress, as used in this study, are defined in the appendix. These definitions are explanatory of the terms used in describing and interpreting dress in this situation. ‘Mrs. Thomas Anderson. CHAPTER III THE STANDARD OR IDEAL FOR CLOTHING CHOICES In an attempt to obtain the student image of appropriate clothing for church services, the instrument included a question asking the respondent to check all the listed items that she thought were appropriate to wear to church this season. It will be noted that the following items of clothing were considered appropriate by the majority of respondents: plain dressy coat, coat with real fur trim such as mink, dress with high neckline, sleeveless dress with jacket, dress with full skirt, straight or slim skirt, pleated skirt, tailored blouse, dressy blouse, shoes with high heels, and a small leather purse. Table 2 gives the tabulations of responses in numbers and percentages. There was 100 per cent agreement on the appropriateness of suits, small hats, shoes with medium heels, nylon hose, and medium size leather purses. Agreement was also shown on the inappropriate- ness of plain sport coats, car coats, leather or imitation leather ‘ jackets, ski parkas or jackets, party dresses, kilts, knee ticklers, culottes, loafers, sandals, knee-high socks, and tote bags. No one checked these items as being considered proper to wear to church. Some of the respondents did not know what some of the items were such as a raccoon collar, synthetic coat collar, tote bag, kilts, or whimsey. 17 1 Qt'!‘ I win-"9*— .~.si')_.;. In) ' 1.- .. . . a" fall 0. five- -.- cm"? I . ' _.‘ 1""‘l 1' I c ”. f7 ' I" .q-I'Qraz'ad Milhfi”. firth: Jf-f) .‘fi'flmfi’TY' ‘ 7 :z-Trofly. ‘4. s ". t".’ .11- s. ‘13.: r): u; I t ‘7’... .- 11$ . t‘T-TE \ :- 18 TABLE 2 NUMBER AND PERCENTAGE OF RESPONSES GIVEN BY FRESHMEN WOMEN INDICATING WHAT THEY CONSIDERED PROPER CLOTHING ITEMS FOR Q-IURCH WEAR THIS SEASON Items of Clothing Responses Number Percentage Coat with real fur like mink 24 37 Coat with real fur trim like mink 53 82 Coat with raccoon collar *1 19 29 Coat with synthetic collar *4 31 48 Plain dressy cost 61 94 Plain sport coat Car coat Leather or imitation leather jacket Ski parks or jacket Suit 65 100 Party dress Dress with full skirt 54 83 Sleeveless dress, no jacket 5 8 Sleeveless dress with jacket 56 86 Dress with low-cut neckline 2 3 Dress with high neckline 58 89 Straight or slim skirt 55 85 Pleated skirt 44 77 Flared skirt 27 42 Full gathered skirt 27 42 Kilts *2 Knee ticklers (skirt above knees) Culottes Bulky knit sweater 55 85 Pullover sweater 9 l4 Cardigan sweater 22 34 Tailored blouse 36 55 Dressy blouse 56 86 Whimsey or veil *1 25 38 Scarf on head 2 3 Small hat 65 100 Large hat 3O 46 No head covering 28 43 .)15:"’ 1 :Irahv , i I!“ ’ r'; . ‘ " \ " "Pst‘ '(s .a ‘ 3 ' .g . ..{" . .,-. r? vucuauev- f'a -‘ {a .70 i 0" _ ‘ “I IO: ,1 ‘b :,-r 1. w .1 E d% h: V ..a J .‘I ',\ U .7. A R. '1’ ~ 1‘ _ fix“ {flwjn i .uff-"Uflljhfle *1" ' ~. . \. .-v7- 1, — it"s“ u‘v'f": r J“ :mwrmli) do meme-2: f '71} ' . . |'_ ., ' .1; r:- l 1" ‘ J. {3' 3, Win 4“. ~ - {I 1,.‘, - ....\ at, f)" ‘9 k; “ . ' .‘3 '_v s‘ _ 3; d31\ '..¢3"jb {1:351 ' Hinge ~wnI djfm as- .s ; i [‘17 , A ' : < i ‘ -*flfi :IvVQ“ - 19 TABLE 2 (Continued) Items of Clothing Responses Number Percentage Shoes with high heels 47 72 Shoes with medium heels 65 100 Flat, dressy shoes 17 26 Loafers Sandals Knee-high socks Nylon hose 65 100 Bobby socks No stockings 1 2 Billfold, no purse . l 2 Satin, velvet or beaded purse 3 5 Small leather purse 55 85 Medium size leather purse 65 100 Large leather purse 27 42 Tote bag *3 *Did not know what these are. J.) - cu. s—n-u—m ...... -——--—.—-« -..-s . vvo .a. .u. . . . PO. 7 I I (a 7 u, I — . . L I ; . v -4 I ..J .l . .... . ‘ I... l. . To p.- b a. v \ | if». h ..., 0 Pt .II In. “O- o n l I J i)! I? 20 There appears to be no rigid rule concerning the wearing or not wearing a hat. While all said a hat is proper, 43 per cent indicated it is proper to wear no head covering at all and 3 per cent thought it was all right to wear a scarf on the head. Large hats and whimseys were considered proper by a large number of respondents. Those articles of clothing that the appropriately dressed woman does not wear to church were checked as beingqsppropriste"by five or less. These items are: no hose, dress with low-cut neckline, sleeve- less dress with no jacket, head scarf, satin purse, beaded purse or velvet purse; Table 3 gives the descriptions of four outfits the students were asked to rate by number for appropriateness for church services. Table 4 shows how the girls rated these four outfits for church. Out- fit "B" was rated first by the largest number, 42 girls or 65 per cent. Thia.eame outfit was rated highest for second place. Twenty girls, 31 per cent rated outfit "B" second. Only two girls placed it in third place and no one ranked it fourth. Twenty-one.students, 32 per cent, rated outfit "D" first and 41 girls or 63 per cent, rated "D" second. Outfits "A" and "C" received the most votes for third and fourth places. Outfit "B" may be described as traditional dress. It includes hat, gloves, .hose, medium heels, and.medium size purse which is appropriate for church wear. Outfit "D“ is also traditional, but it does not in- clude a hat. The combined first and second place ratings of these two outfits, ”B” and ”D” total 62. This represents 95 per cent of the respondents. Outfit ”A? may be described as the party type. Its combined third and fourth place ratings total 62. Outfit "C“ has a casual appearance ... o H I I n. .. t I '< ... .1 ‘J .. ..Ooy I . I. .’ I l a. ..s... el .4 . . I. o ‘ 1:! I . 0 . . b . . A ' I . o ... . .. a s . . ..7 u .v. I 5. C v... 4 - .v a \ . 1 .. _ .s . o. . ~\ I o l o . . . l ..b. . .‘ . . a: . e 7 \ ... .. A .. ll . . a l \ s . I a m y .. l . o4 . . . ... . e . .ul ..r I .q . ... . . . o O o e v . . t. a v r. .s . . a . a o .. . res .' .l. I‘ l. . n I.. I . l or s : ‘fa' 21 TABLE 3 DESCRIPTIONS OF OUTFITS RATED FOR APPROPRIATENESS FOR CHURCH SERVICES BY FRESHMEN COLLEGE WOMEN Outfit A Outfit B Outfit C Outfit D Coat with fur trim Party dress Whimsey or veil Nylon hose Medium size purse Shoes, high heels Fabric gloves Dark tailored coat Sheath dress Medium size hat Nylon hose Medium size purse Shoes, medium heels Fabric gloves Coat with raccoon collar Dark wool plaid skirt Cardigan sweater Shoes, medium high heels Tailored gloves Small leather purse Small hat Plain color dress coat Dacron wool jacket dress Pumps with medium heels Nylon hose Medium size purse Fabric gloves if, , 22 TABLE 4 RATINGS BY NUMBER.(SHOWING NUMBER AND PERCENTAGE OF EACH RATING) OF FOUR OUTFITS RATED FOR APPROPRIATENESS FOR CHURCH SERVICES BY FRESHMEN COLLEGE WOMEN W Rating 1 2 3 4 Total* 9291.133. Number 1 l 28 34 64 Percentage 2 2 43 52 99 guests. Number 42 20 2 0 64 Percentage 65 31 3 0 99 sales Number 0 2 32 3O 64 Percentage O 3 49 46 98 were Number 21 41 2 0 64 Percentage 32 63 3 0 98 *One respondent did not follow directions and her responses could not be used. Percentages have been rounded. 23 with combined ratings for third and fourth places also totaling 62. This would indicate that at least 95 per cent of the population recognized both appropriate and inappropriate church attire. As a part of an individual research problem at Michigan State University conducted by Ruth Marie King, freshmen women students at Kentucky State College were asked to check those clothing items they thought were appropriate for basketball games, coke dates, classes, semi- formal dances and church.1 The tabulations on page 43 of King's study were very similar to those of this study in the area of church attire. King collected her date by means of a questionnaire administered to 84 freshmen female college students at Kentucky State College at Frankfort. This is an integrated school but the enrollment is primarily Negro. It is a state sponsored college and is not church related as is Southern Missionary College. A comparison of Tables 2 and 4 with the findings of King's study show a similarity. The tally of responses of the two groups which checked Athe items appropriate for church were approximately the same. Betty Wass received similar responses when questioning ninth grade girls in East Lansing, Michigan.2 In contrast, however, a notice- able number of Wass's population included knee-ticklers, bobby socks, and loafers, which are casual items. 1Ruth Marie King, ”A Study of Clothing Preferences Among Freshmen Female College Students: Student and Faculty Opinions on Clothing Selections for Various Occasions," (unpublished Master's problem, Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts, Michigan State University, 1964), p. 43. gBetty Wass, ”Clothing as Related to Role Behavior of Ninth Grade Girls,“ (unpublished Master's thesis, Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts, Michigan State University, 1962), pp. 30-31. 24 In a further attempt to discover the student image of appropriate dress, the respondents were asked to name a Collegedale community woman and a college student whom they thought dressed the most appropriately for church on Sabbath. In this study appropriate dress for church is defined as "that attire which is modest and neat; does not draw atten- tion to the wearer by the parading of bows, ribbons, ruffles, feathers, artificial flowers, and gold or silver ornaments: is not too informal or too dressy but includes a hat."1 In identifying an example of appropriate dress, one respondent said no one dressed appropriately for church. Although seven girls failed to answer this question and six said they did not know any community women, the responses were significant. Two of the community women received 26 votes as being the most appropriately dressed for church. Miss “AV, who was named 14 times, is in an administrative position and has close contact with the population. She is young, tall, and wears her clothes very well but seldom wears a hat. Mrs. "B" nearly always wears a hat to church, and her dress meets the criteria of appropriateness as defined in this study. The other women who were named are also in the public eye a great deal. Of the 17 community women named 13 of them have been observed to meet the dress criteria of this study. Four women do not meet the criteria of apprOpriate dress. One wears gaudy colors and large attention- getting hats. Three of the women are often seen in church without hats but with attractive and modest hair styles. With the exception of Miss "A” and Mrs. "B" there was no concen- tration in naming the community women. Eleven women each received one 1Appendix B, p. 68. w, l . A I . . f , I ‘ Q ‘ u I . ' 5 ‘ . . . V I ~ ‘I .I ‘ l ‘ \ . ' . _ . | 0 "9 ‘ r . l . o I ‘9 . I I ‘ n . ' ‘ ”\ I l . . 4 l . ‘ (B 25 vote. Of the remainder two women were mentioned four times, two others were named three times and two were named two times each. It is possi- ble the reason for the selection of these individuals is that they are better known than other community women. Not enough is known about the dress practices of the college students, who were singled out as being the most appropriately dressed, to draw any valid conclusions. There does not appear to be any one student who is the model for this segment of the dormitory population. Of the 38 girls listed, only one was designated by six respondents and two received five votes each. Three girls received three votes and five received two votes each. Twenty-seven girls were named only once. It is not known whether these girls have similar or different patterns of dress. Since no one was named by a majority or even by a large number of girls it is possible that the names could have been chosen on the basis of acquaintance or friendship rather than on actual dress practices. The respondents were asked to give reasons for their choice of the community woman and the college student they believed to be the most appropriately dressed for church. Although there does not appear to be a model among the student group, their reasons for selection, however, give insight into their clothing image. Descriptions of appropriately dressed community women and students included words like neat, good taste, appropriate, inconspicuous, wears a hat, wears a suit, simple, modest, and not overdressed. The words and phrases used to describe the women who were selected as being the most appropriately dressed for church are tabulated in Table 5. The words used to describe the appropriately dressed . t ' I , ' ‘ . . , . . A ' . ’ ‘ O a . a II ‘ ' ‘ l ‘ v .'. A ' ... . .0 - ' \_ . . . . 1 . g . . t . x ‘ . . , . . \ . L . - l O ' e .4 , a « ' - ' h l p 4 . 1 _ r . _' ' . . . , . e _ . _ a , , . _ . . I a g g ' I .l ' a." . r ' ' n ' - 'v . a, - . w . . ,v y ‘ s n '1' I I u‘ .‘ . V. . 'w _ ’ . . . . u 4 ’ I O . a ‘ U . ~ . , I Q . s . . is s " V A, ‘ r . ' . L ' n . ‘ -’ - 26 TABLE 4 WORDS AND PHRASES USED TO DESCRIBE THE WOMEN NAMED AS THE MOST APPROPRIATELY DRESSED FOR CHURCH j Descriptive Words Community Women College Women Total No. No. No. U Always looks nice Always takes pride in her clothes Appropriate Attractive Becoming colors Becoming styles Carries a purse Clean Conservative Coordinated accessories Cute Don't know many of them Fits properly Good taste 1 Has money to buy them Has nice clothes Inexpensive l Inconspicuous 9 Mainly her decorum Modest Neat New Clothes None No one at all times appropriate for church Not gaudy Not always a hat No hats Not overdressed Nice colors Never have seen her inappropriately dressed for church Omitted Originality Plain Pressed Smart looking clothes Wears dresses Wears gloves wears heels Wears hat Wears suits Wears latest styles wellggroomed hUHl-‘UHJ-‘U HwWNl-‘NHNOHU H MUDO‘ .... «I-‘NHNNNH-FH ...: £~h‘ PIP‘VDCDF‘O‘clhihl¢>8~0\hi\lO‘hahJUIh)O\u3F‘O\ N hi Uihia~h3 hauah-haa~ h*h‘U'u’ a: turd h‘h‘ Pd UDP‘CDUD&~UIMD~JP‘F*NJ\JUD ho¢>hasao~k- 'ha NIG>NDUDNDO\P'O‘F'U>P‘ NHUU‘NN ”O 27 community women are very nearly like those used to describe the college student. The women of both categories were described as having a dress that is "neat,” "in good taste," "appropriate," ”inconspicuous," and “modest." The appropriately dressed woman wears suits and hats. This, then is the freshmen image of appropriate dress for community and college women for church on Sabbath. In response to the question, "Have you ever noticed someone in church whom you did not think dressed properly7", 63 respondents said ”yes" and only two said "no.“ One girl who said "no" gave an interest- ing comment, "I try to keep my mind on the minister and not on what people wear.“ Table 6 is a summary of the things the respondents noticed others wearing to church which they thought inappropriate for the occasion. Dress of the party type, classroom attire, sleeveless garments, and clothing which was too fancy, too sporty, and too showy was stated most often as being inappropriate church attire. The student image of clothing for religious services may be described as "neat," "inconspicuous,” "modest," and ”in good taste.“ The appropriately dressed woman included plain suits and dresses and she is neither overdressed nor underdressed. She carries a medium or small size purse and wears shoes with medium or high heels. Her dresses have either straight or full skirts and they have sleeves. Hosiery is a must but she may choose to wear a small hat or a whimsey or veil or no head covering at all. She wears gloves to church. The next chapter will be concerned with the actual dress practices and the clothing behavior of the student and how she relates herself to this image. 28 TABLE 6 ENUMERATION AND COMMENTS BY STUDENTS CONCERNING CLOTHING THEY HAVE OBSERVED'WORN To CHURCH WHICH THEY BELIEVE IS INAPPROPRIATE Comments Number Accessories Bobby socks Classroom attire 1 Colors bright and gaudy Colors didn't harmonize Combinations didn't match Culottes Dresses, party 1 Dress, party with several crinolines Dress, sun Dress, inappropriate--leopard dress with leopard hat to match Everyday clothing Fumfmq Gloves, none Hose, none Immodest Shoes, flats Shoes, tennis Skirts too short Sleeveless Sloppy Overdressed "Like Queen Jezebel" Too gaudy Too dressy Too fancy Too casual Too showy Too sporty NHUH§H§OUH “30>hixlc-h'F‘&~ND¢>\JF'P‘P'UIF‘F‘F‘P‘ CHAPTER IV ACTUAL DRESS PRACTICES A picture of actual dress practices of the freshmen women of Southern Missionary College will be partially formed from their de- scriptions of specific clothing practices. Some specific dress practices were Obtained from the answers to five questions which are summarized in Tables 10-14 of Chapter V of this study. The questions were concerned with the items of clothing worn to church in spite of the fact that the respondents' mothers or that the Dean of Whmen did not approve, or that their girl friends or boyfriends did not like them. What is important at this juncture is that the items were worn, and not why they were worn. The items the girls insisted upon wearing were described in terms 'which indicated that the definition of modesty was the primary area of disagreement. The point of contention in nine cases was the wearing of sleeveless garments. Ten girls disagreed with others on the length or fit of specific garments. The following were mentioned only once: 8 Party dress, a low neckline, a high hat, a big hat and high heels. Respondents wore these items to church even though they knew others did not like or approve of them. According to Table 7, the majority, 80 per cent, always wear gloves to church while 11 per cent usually wear them. When it comes to a hat, the picture is different. About one third wear a hat 29 30 N H Hm as «H HH HH h numnnmm no mousse ou ensue uo onsoHA noon>oon a use: H N H no no a H Aumaasm so mousse ou noHuonnouos house use: H a H mm mm o c N H N H somehow so nousgo ou ensue human s was: H N H HH HH an mH mm mm «H a n « somehow so nousno ou honsaas no on: a use: H N H m n HH H on an nonpasm so senses ou mo>OHw woos H u .oz n .oz u .02 N .02 n .02 n .0: nooHuooum «noun Huuuwao noeoz eovHom mHHosoHnsooo hHHosnD nhuzad E II; Eel—n3 .8 853m BEE 023sz4 2mm: :88: 286mg 2 3338 3354mm $53 oEBBm no 8.832 n nan