II Ill ‘3 . .fio.L«.wfiuu.z.v ”and ..t . I.... .. . ... ......T. .333. 3.... .... .J. .. .I . ..I I CI. ...1. o. m .c 1' ... ... . o . .7 . .Jw 4 . ~. I p 9 I . .u.. 0.. I.. o .. w . 3 c . . I. . .. ~ . .. .. I. Ill 0 o . n u o l . p :3 I .. ~..—n AI. . v I . o. ._ o .. .4 a . - u — .. ‘II ‘. v . _ _. . ._ v . .. 4I.a . I . .. . . ... I . . . . . .I . . I u . k “n u... ...-... .. .1 .... . I .... .. c—v .Al._ I ..o #7.“.0 .of. «......a. o o. 4‘; .... .... .. . . .. o o'.”oo ‘9. u .I . . . It.‘ - u. .. ... “avg... ...w... a . .. ...ax. 43.3.9. ....I.. .... II“. .. M‘... .....9. A. L «HI» 1 I 1.3.”... firoa ch '9'”. .... . 3.13.... J ... . o Iufifl le...‘ .. x ..u .. . . co . ..I. .. .../... ... ‘ . u... o .a F ...a... mum .. ... . I .. . O. .- i .0. . I 1 . 0.. . . .....1... 5.7.. . . .-.~ |..\ .. . .. .. a... .o .I : ....Isaspmm .fimmr .f. .0 . . ..IO. . u .. .... o o. I . I. . . .. I... 0%...- . CI. 7 I. .. .. .Io . .. I a. .I 09... . ‘0 YOI . Q . ..u. . .. a... v(.O .. 0.1..I .. .v! on . I . . 4 I I. .0. .UI)QI6 V.... o n. I D II I. .. ... .0. . . . 0A . . o . o. . .I‘ . o It I .. . c . . o. ... .I I . I II! I.. I. I . I I I. . I I I. I.. .I I I.. II I. o .I I I. III . V I. I I. I | O . o .. I. I . I . .. . .. . f. .l. .... u . 1 . p I v.1 a o . . I . ... I ..I.. .. . . O .3 y .. J T .3. I p .. O . .. .... II .. a... .- 2~I I . . v . . O . I . I .. I . . . o . . ’ I . . II. .V; . ~ 9. I a I ‘ .o o ‘4 I . v. . a. I I can . .. I.IA I. u. o . I 9).. .. . . I. 1 . . . I I.. . .. . I. . I . Iv. . I I . . . . . .. . .. I..- . .o . .. . . .I . . . I _ ... o. . . $ . I I A. p I I ‘I I . .I . . I... . . . I . I. u . O 10 . ...r . Io . I. . .... I. I a . . .l. ... . .n . .. . .II I I. . I I . I I o . . ..a . 9 .II. . ... . .00 . I . u I .o I a I . 7.. . ... 1 .... . I I) I. I I. .o . ... .I u I I .I ... ... O). 0‘.”- I .. I . I . ... I I . u .l- . . .‘ . .Jvt..h I .0». Q I O. . . o. .... a. I . ... . I : ..I . . .13’... .I I. v ...! . ‘ J I J . ..f... .8”. I . . . o..- . . . . .. . .. . . I... .. . . .A . o. . u . . ..- I. . I ... . ... ..O. .. ... ..tob.ku. ( ....lan; .31. 031%..94..0.‘ . . . . .. .1." 311... 13H .. . I . .b . o . I I... I .. ...!I I ‘ .. o0 . I . ..I .. . . ‘ .t lint; I..’al‘* ..I. ,Do . . II... c .3. . . I I I I . I n . .I . at! I . ’.'I i I. I0. . I I J - b O . I A . on . .1 3...... .Uo’ ..u IF .. Sir“; I. I . . I . o ... . . .. -. . ... . . . .. - .. . ... I .lu...:.r.._III.«.-........ - .. . .. . .o .I. . I . l . . w. _.H .. O. .I .. I . on. 1.0!. "WrCl‘OW IIQII: . . I u .....I......-I I. a I .0 . . . . . n .V Iv ’ . O. I a . .. . I .. I H I. . . . V I I . . . . I 1 o- I. I ..o v . I. I .. I . o. . . . ..A 1 I v. ‘ _. . v . I .I I I . I . . II I... ..i . I . ... . ... I I I. ‘ Io. - II. II . . I . I u. o... . I L Q I. o! I . I I ... . . . . . I o . . a l. A . I I I . ... I o I v I. I. U .. . I ... . o..40-..¢.ov.. . . . II I .... v 10 o . o I I. .o . .. .. I. . .I I . . x. ... I no . . v. . . II ..I v. . . I .! . . . .. I O . .. . . . I. . . I. . I . I . . ... . . I . I . I l O I. I . ; .. .0..- I. t .. . . .o I I . . o 05. o o . . I .o . . A . 0. . . _ . c . I. IL I . . I .. 0 . . -¢. I I . I .. o . I. O.) . ..‘. I. i .O' I . O 0.. . . . 0.: I Q ... I I. . . C . I III. In. ..I a. .- .. . .. ... no . . I I o I _ . I. .. .v 19.....01. . VI . .o . . . I a I . ’I. ... Q. Q’. . .I.. I I .. . A. . . u n . I . . II . c . II. I .. , I. . . o .. ...: .c I . I I III .- . c.~. . I. no r I _ l I I: ' '0 g .Q.. t 4 n v ' u u I 1 I I v .0 o . I It. . I u .l o. .. . .l I, . u. ¢ .I .I I . o . ’- . I ..v- . . . . . .. IIooC..IIo-I. . . .... .. .I .. . . . n. III..I . III ‘..\1\....on‘.0¢.._ .. . . ... . . .. .. . - . .. . ...?lusg . .I ..I. .... a . .I I". .0 I O I .II \I~\I-.oo.... . 9 (coin .. ... . .. - .. I. . .. ” .I..I..I.......I. .II . . . 0 u. .... C u... I II.. I I .. I O . I I I l '- _ ~I I l I C 'l . . . .90. ... b . .o . I . . u I ..u. . . I I. c I u . O o I . . ..I I. . .96 ..c . o. . . v o. . .I . I I I... .. . I .I I O. I ..u. v . _ ... . ....I . . .1. I II I . . . . o I :0 . . .. . .. . r . . I ... o...V . . 6: II .. $..A4.I..O..... . ' hlI. . . .. ... - . ...I . .. ..... ... 0.4.. ..II I... I. I . . Jun 0" I. -II ..--00...... I I r .I .. . I .. I . I g . IV 1... 0.. n I .. II I .. . A o .. . .. c I .. 8- I . o ... .. .lil. . 1'. 4W.I..£.. ‘. o i .0... .IC ... . - . -. I II .. . ..........uUI.... .. 0 ..I . I . ...... .... I. . I ... o I . v I I! I I y ‘0. n .. I O ' V . . I ‘. I . . . 3 -.. ...Il1 - . I I I, . . ..I.. I . .I .Q . . II. -0 I _ .- v.00. . I .1 I I .v... _ 6 ... I c .0 . . . . IY. I I I . . I o I. . .. . o .. . .I . ... U .. . O... _ II. 0. o z .a u. . ... o . o v 1.. I a o. I .-.. ..I . .o a . .. . I II: I . ..I . . .... o . .. .... . 3.. Q. . u 0.. W .u . .’ I o. n I . o -.l 4 . - . . . 2 .u I. 0 c . I ‘ I I . _ u a. . .... .. n... . I _ g ‘ _ . .o' . .. I I .. . .. I. I . . I .I . .0 ....II .vII .. .III.I . 9... . O... . I .- 1 0. I 0 .\II I . I . I I I I n . . l I .o o .. .. . . . I I D. II . . ' d .I . I. I o I I I. [:1 I.’ o I. . O o I I . I .. .I . . . . . I . I . - n. I. .0 I L o I b. - . D. o ’ I . . s 4 .’ IV t 1'1... INII I a ' I LIBRARY Michigan State University PLACE IN RETURN BOX to remove this checkout from your record. To AVOID FINES return on or before date due. MAY BE RECALLED with earlier due date if requested. DATE DUE DATE DUE DATE DUE 2/05 «unmade-“15‘ {3 Q. MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY TEXTILES, CLOTHING AND RELATED ARTS 1135‘s COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS A CG.«'PARISG\I OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTILN NETIODS/ A Problem . / By Evelyn Carlson Seneca! Submiifed Co the Coiiegc of Home Economics of Michigan State University of Agriculture end Applied Science In part“! futffllnenf of the tequiremenis for the degree of Master of Arie. Department of Texftlee, Ciofhlng, and Related Art I959.t960 F3 ACKl‘DU L E DOME NT 5 The writer wishes to eXpress her a29reciation to qr. Harv L. Cephart, Associate Professor in the Depart- meat 0? Textiles, Clothing, and Related Art at hichigan State University, fer her assistance and guidance in planning and directing this study; to Mrs. Jane Llocker, hes. Phyllis Chane, and Mrs. Adelaide Tirreli of Flint, hichigan, judges of the finished garment; to the under- graduate students enrolled in section l4l of the Home Econ mics Clothing Course lfil at Flint junior C-llede for their particivation in the pil t study; and to the adult women enr lied in section I42 of the Home Economics Clothing Course l3l and to the adult women in the ;ish0p l Sewing Class at Vhittier Junior High School whose partic- ioation and COOperation were essential throughout the entire study. TABLE Ol‘ CUNTEl-JTS V IF‘iClilD [EmfiltlaTs o o o o o o o LlST CF TABLES e . o . o o e 0 Chapter is INTRODUCTl N . Chapter ll. l.'I'ZT?"ODS AND PRU: .— 0 O O O O C O O O O EDURES o of the Instruments Chaster lll. ANALYSES OF DATA . O O O C C O 0 Selection of the Powulation Formulation and Administration Analysis of the Survey instrument Analysis of Score Sheets by the Panel of Judges Analysis of the instructor Score Sheets Compared with Ratings by Panel of Judges Chapter Iv. EVALUATIOHS AI‘D ShillinirlY . . . . . . Evaluations of the Assumwtions Evaluation of the Instrument: Summary LlSTOl:REF'-QLF"£ES.000000.00.00... APPEllD'x . o . . g . O O O o o Page IV to 2| 90 Table i. ll. l2. l3. it. l5. l6. l7. l8. l9. 29. 2|. 22. LIST OF TABLES Age of Particiaants o . . . . . . . . marital Status of Particiuants . . . Occupati n of Particiiants . . . . . Educational Level of Particiaants . . Previous Clnthing C nstructi n Classes Previous Cl thing-Related labs . . . PrevioUs Operation of Sewing Machines Purwoses of Taking Course . . . . . . Uisadvantages of Class . . . . . . . Advantages of Class o . o . a . . . . Comparison of interest . . . . . . o Desire for Set of Construction Details Accentance of helhod . . . o o o o . c o e . Accewtance of Methods as Goad and Reasonable Acceptance of Uethad's Practical Use Attitude on Following hethod o o o 0 Preference for Socialization . . . s Educational Teleuislon . . . . o o 0 Comparison of Educational Value Of T2'3V'3l0fl and Film 0 o o o o o O I. Expectation of Acceutability of Finished Garment. Al*"UdC 0" C08, Of C'ass II o o o o e e.- O '9'3'35‘ til Ad-AEEEONGE Classes 0 o 0 Q o o O o O -'V-- Page 43 49 SI 52 List of Tables - lContinuedJ Table Page 23. Stitching Ability of Students as Ratei by . . JUdgC‘ in Use 0f Carbon Lines 0 e e e e o e a 54 24. Ratings by Judges for Threads Secureiy' FSSlCDZd at Edges e o o o e e e o o o e e o o 56 25. Ratings by Judges For Carrect Stitching L¢flglh8 a e o o e e e e e o e o q o e e e a o 57 26. Ratings of Judges on Blouses in Seam Widths, Staystitching widths, Hems of Blouses, Hems of Sleeves, and Hems of Facings . . . . o . e 58 27. Patings by Judges on Blouses for General Effect of Fitted Facings, Gussets, Hems of Blouses. Slide Fasteners, Fknu of Sleeves, Darts, and Tucks . . . . . . . . . . 6t 28. Ratings by Judges on Blouses for Shaping and Pressing During Construction . . . . o o e . 65 29. Ratings by Judges on Bi uses for Pressing AppearanC¢ e e a a e o e o e o a e 9 ale 0 o 67 30. Ratings by Judges on blouses For Correct ' Stitching Tension . . ... . . . o o o . e . e 67 3|. Ratings by Judges on Aapearance of Blouses For Elimination of Fuckers, Cutting on Grain. hhat Fitted Facings, Smooth Slide Fasteners, Flat Gussets and Hems. Straight Fem Allowances on Sleeves, Location of arts and Tucks. Fraying or Pulling_0ut, and Clean Seam Finishes. 68 CHhPTE l? l lNTRUDUCTlCfil As the United States aroceeded into the Twentieth Century, the industrialization Era advanced at Full soeed. Along with mechanization, mass )roduction tech- niques and labor oroblems develoaed. These conditions have been instrumental in the value changes and living patterns of the American oeoole. industrialization has not onlv atlected the technical skills; oractical stills, also, have been influenced. in many cases innovations and new aroce ures have comoletely realacei the former structure. Some times they have tailed.and disaoaeare‘. Cther times they have taken their place alonn side the existing. system, fusing or comoromisina with it to function together or separately within the same society. It is this last condition with which the writer is c:ncerned in this study. The key exa ole has been chosen from the field of the oraclicai homemakinn skills--that of sewlnn. Soeed, simolith‘tlon, and efficiency have become fartors to consider as the values and living norms of a Decal: alter in a new era. in the past half-century twis new emohasis has reachei the indiv- idual women sewers as eell as the Garment industry. hethods of hand and machine sewinn have reoresented the values and standards in sewing technioues of the American women. Simultaneously, the qarment industry has introduced new soeed methods in mass produced clothinq. Many of these factory techniques have been use4 recently by women sewers to their satis- faction, somewhat alterinq their values and standards in wersonal se inq. Resulting fr m these two ao- proaches t“ sewing, two dominate oatterns of thought have evolved. At the wresent time many women who sew for themselves a 4 their families tend to follow one of two methods of clothing c nstruction. Lne method of sewing f~llows the traditional, custom system of construction; the other consists of soecd techniques of sewing taken from the in'ustrial field cf Garment construction. An exa ole of an outstanding individual advocating each of these methods ot clothfno con- struction is lai Evelyn A. hansfield, who uses the techniques rf traditi nai clothinq c nstruction and lbi Edna firyte Bishua, a leader teaching the soecd method. These two methods are basically different ”W -3- in ao.roach and ohilosoohy to clothing construction. Both Evelyn Mansfield and Edna Hryte Bishoo require a hioh level of skill and will not comoroeise with inferior or inaccurate work. Since both methods are accented and followed in formal instruction of clothing construction in Averican educational institutions, it will be the wuroose of this study to investigate these methods to determine the orocesses and proce‘ures uset, the techniques and skills involved, and the values and standards -f each. Evelyn é;_5ansfield ln ICSB the Houqhton-Uifflin C.moany published Clot ing C-nstruction, a book written by Evelyn A. Mansfield. This 454-oage book is a com>ilation of traditional techniou s of )attern alteration, custom sewlnn, and information acout sewinfi ecui3mcnt awd fabrics. Clearly illustrated with over 65‘ ohoto- graohs and drawings, the reader can follow step-by— step descriotions of the fine and detailed techniques used in the traditi.nal methods of clothing con- struction. By lC58 over one-hundred universities, c Iieqes, and institutions through ut the United States had adopted this book as a text. Carnegie institute of Technology, Columbia University, ‘ichiqan State -4- University, and purdue University are anon: this group lsee Aooen‘ix Ii. hiss hansfield earned her Bachel r of Science degree in lCQC at the University of Nebraska. She attended Teachers College, Columbia University, where she receive} her haster of hrts degree in i9;4. The followinq year hiss Lansfield studied drapinq and pattern making with hademoiselle Louise Le Jeune of Paris, France. fhe then joined the teaching orofession and durinq summer vacations attended various schools of design, clothing and textile seminars, and art acade les from coast to coast. These exoeriences provide3 the oooortunity to learn new develoseents and to perfect methods, thereby contributinq a )roqres- sive understanding of the cl thing construction orocess. In I957 Evelyn Lansfield joined the staff of Lichigan State University, risino to the rank of Associate Professor in the fiepartment of Textiles, Clothing, and Peiated Arts. Throughout her career she has been recognized by her students as well as her Colleaques in the teaching trofession for her dedication to traching the fine and detailed tech- niques of clotnins c nstruction leatino to the develooment of skill. in the early ICSJ's, the -5- faculty of hichigan State University voted her a recialent of the all-university Distinguished Teachers Award, sy:bolizing her hiwh merits and achievements in the field erament are strongly contrasted by her flashing brown eyes and quick thinking. ‘Her quiet, unassuming manner and molest acceotance of 23n3rable awards is another personal characteristic. Farmer students and >ersenal friends remember Evelyn tansfield vividly and the high standards which she Upholds. -7- hiss hansfield's experiences ant acquaintances with other fashion and clothing c nstruction leaders have heloed her in c mailing the many tested tech- niques in custom fitting and c nstructi n for oubli- cation. in lC48 Miss iansfield co-authored the book “res: Wesijn with hiss harion Hillhouse. This b;ok clearly defines an4 illustrates the :rinciules of flat pattern design and drawing. hiss Hillhsuse, a colleague of Evel n Uansfield, is an Associate Professor in the erartment of Textiles, Clothing, and Eelated Art at Michigan State University. hiss Hillhouse receivel her Master of Art degree from Teac ers College, Cplumbia Univ rsity. She, too, had studied in Paris and for several summers attended various schools of art throughout the Unite-J States. £g33_8ryte Bisho) Edna Bryte Bishoa has been in the clothing construction field for many years. Aging in her seventies now, hrs. Bishoo still maintains the vigor and ambition so characteristic of her aers nality. Although hrs. BishOp began her nation-wide lecture oresentations for the Bisho) method f s eed sewing only twelve years age, she had soent years develooing and mastering her skill and methods. Hvr exweriences range fr~m the high—soeri machines in garment factories to the level of teaching clothing construction in colleges. Originally from Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. Edna Bryte Bishop has demonstrated her methods all over the United States. She has worked in design- ing and alterations for fashion magazines as well as high-style designers, such as Schiaparelli and Anne Fogarty. She is now the Education Director for the Advance Pattern Company. Mrs. Bishop has written of her philosoohy and method of teaching: ”i believe l have something that gives women much happiness. This is a real service. and that is what you are here on this earth for-ooto serve in any way that will bring happiness and give. help to others.” This portion of her philosOphv is one example of the drawing power she holds. Her followers are sincere and extremely conscientious to follow her methods accurately. In her lectures and workshOps at department stores and schools throughout the nation, she strives for a family feeling within the group. The personal touch so evident in her manner keeps her "family" of followers constant and growing. Attendance at her lectures have grown to large oroportions in recent years. Women return year after year to the department stores or lecture halls whcrc 1“\ '3 she is Steakin“. 'rs. Bishoo has a remarkable memory for recognizing familiar attendants. She often pauses during her informal talks to direct a question to n: of her f‘ilowers. New, attentive 3e03le also c3tch her them to meet her eye, an? she chooses to call Uoon nersnnaily following her lectures. The nsycholotical effect of th's sweciai recognition by hrs. dishwo in her large "family" certainiv helps e plain osrt of the nosiiivs reaction at the jr0U35. hrs. Bishop strongly emwhasizes that she is working and lecturing f r her listeners, not for herself. She is dejicated to teachinj stu‘ents her method at cl thing c nstruction. Her informal, "family"-tvpe instruction has been acceatef bv a majority of those who attend her lectures an] read her educwtivnai material. in its broadened concept, Bishop instruction is so geared to the public unjerstanfiinq that it has therebv heiwed to raise the standard of livinn as it has raised the level of heme sewinn for so 'any women and br uqht renewel interest in clothing c nstruction thr-ughnut t.e Unite} States. hrs. Bishoo is an excellent business woman, suoerb publicity agent, and clever -rqaniz:r. in the past twelve years her methwd has been acceotcd as the c=re method f~r teachini of sewing classes throughout the 90b|lc SChO l SVstems of the city of Chicano, lllinols, and the states of Oregon and Iashington. The State Seoartmcnt of harvinnt has instituted the Bishop method of clothing c nstructinn in all public scho is. Flint, hichiean; Denver, C ior3d>; Dallas, Texas; and Saginaw and Wetroit, hichiqan, are cities with the largest adult enrniiment in ortanized Bishop classes in the United States (listed in ‘escendinq orderl. Her method of instruction has extended to Alaska, Hawaii, and_the Polynesian, Chinese, Japanese, and German cultures. fin ~utst=ndinn exanple of the fast accestance and growth of the Bishoa method of ci-thinq c nstruction| is the adilt education pro.ram in Flint, Fichigan. in l954 the Edna Bryte bishO) method was intrcduced by the Bishop Sewing Classes to the Hott Fnundation Program. The tail enrollment totaled 243 adult women in the ten-week session of study divided into i6 classes. Nearly five years later, the l¢58 fail quarter enrollment of the year-around orOjram totaled l,44l women in ”i classes; he i SS-IOSQ annuai oroqram alone t taied 4,417 women in 2°3 classes (see Appendix iii. in Flint 3i Blshep instructors teach classes throughout the weekday and evenine. Certification for the instructors recuire a substantial knowledge of cl thing construction, a week's attendance at hrs. Bishou annual w rkshoo in hichigan, attendance at most visiting lectures by Hrs. Bishow throughout the year, and c muleti n of Bishoo c urses l a d ll. Gertrude Harder, Sishéo Sewing Coordinator of the Flint Pott Founiation Program. reaffirms hrs. Bishwo' statement that the instructors are firs. Blsh 0' main )U)ll5 who Spread her knowledqe. It is extremely imaortant, theref re, that they understand and believe the Rishov ohlIOSWDhy and the latest revised methods of cl thing construction. The instructors are given uniform teaching schedules. $eouirements for each course are identical among all class sections. Each course uses soecific, re uire‘ patte ns which eliminate contusion creat d by sewino "too much tor soon”. hrs. Bishoo states, "After the sewing machine was inveeted, nobody came alonn to tell us how to get the :ost out of it. nooen are not mechanically minded. ?e needed know—h w along with modern wachine rethods. Ehen you have little m ney, little children, and little time, you can't soend hours learnino how to sew. Eut you have e t to strive f'r wcrfection, perfect cutting, oerfect sewing, oerfect fitting, and perfect and frequent oressinq...or anyway, as nearly perfect as y u can do." Her 27‘-oane beck, The gjshqg_ieihni of Clltling Construction, is oroduct of 33 years exocrience and ten years of writino a d e mailing. Her Comworkcr, Farjorie Ftotler firch, is now the Bishoo instructor for the Rdvance Pattern Com any. She is also the Current national oresident of the H re Leonznics H nurary, Kaooa O icr n Phi. Variorie flrch is a g”‘7uate of lniana State Teaehvrs Coll fie.- Crain werfecfiion, accuracy in areoaring, cutting and mariinq fabric, serfection in stitching, perfection in pressing, and attainment of quality loot with the rig t trimminq detail are the five main irinei les unierlving the Bishwo vethod of clothin] c nstruction. Irs. Bishoo has used many catchy thrases re)eate'ly in exoressinq soecific "learninqs'1 embodied in her method. Sa"e of her ex>ressions include: ”3e grain vertectT; "do not teach to much t o s.on , 'use directi nal staystitc inq and oressinq"; 'sew In unit constructi n"; ani "av it that firéside l .k". C msarls n of hethods The Bishoo techniques c nmonly require less pinning in construction, fewer finishing details lsome details are eliminated), anl fewer trial fittings to the earer than the traditional, custom moth d of I 'J - Constructi n. Eurinj her lectures, Edna ;ryte Sishgu dam nstrztes how notiun study an! organizati;n with the unit m3tfloj of c ns:ructi n refucas the el thing c:nstructi n w.rkin: time. Her techniques and :3n33;n:nt urineiwles to; ther result in fzsiur cwn« structitn w rk. hrs. Ulsho) admits, h wever, that Q custom a oezranee and fit are 5 mew'at saeriiice? when s 33' techniques .f constructivn are use}. The tri’iti-n3l me Ind bssically embidies the some or'nciples of ac uracy and perfection -f grain and drtail as th se sct forth in Dish 3 e ucatlon material. fianaqen nt of tits is n;t str ngly emohasize', and t.e techniques many times require tine-C‘nsuning hand w rk and mare frequent Fittings for a cust m 3)):a'ance. Lne Sweeific dierrence in >hiloso)2ies of the twu mqthsds is that hrs. Sishzo clearly states that the #:zments constructe! by h r n th J will be com arable in ca.str cti n to a.y garmsnt bought ready- ale, but the oers nal fit will be better. iiss hansfield strives for a quality "ardent with custom c nstructivn in technical detail and weriection of fit. The concept of ozrtectiefl_of fit t Tarcents --6 _~ .- and the techniques of c nstructi n difftr in the two clotting constraeti n wet ads. The dejree vf - I4 - perfection of sewing skill executed is extremely high for each method. Purpose'gi Stud! it is the purpose of this study to compare, rate, and evaluate lot the technical skills devel0ped and mastered by beginning adult women sewers instructed by the Edna Bryte BishOp method and the traditional method of custom sewing andibl the psychological satisfactions of beginning adult women sewers derived from their end product and their ability to learn how to sew. gbiectives‘gfl Study The specific objectives of this study are: it To complete the purpose of this study to compare, rate, and evaluate la) the technical skills deveIOped and mastered by beginning adult women sewers instructed by the Edna Bryte Bishop method and the traditional method of custom sewing and (bi the obvious personal psychological sat- isfaction: of beginning adult women sewers derived from their end product and their ability to learn how to sew; 2i To obtain the experience of re- search study, thereby broadening the writer's knowledge of research tech- niques; and 3) To devel0p a clearer sense of objective comparison and evaluation of two highly contrasted methods of clothing construction. \) CHAPTER ll tx’EthDS AND PROCEDURES The techniques, skills. and psychological factors basic to beginning adult women sewers in clothing construction classes were tested. Two comparable methods of sewing were chosen: the Bishop method and the traditional custom method. The methods and procedures for developing this study included a pilot study followed by the selection of the poouiation and the formulation and administra- tlon of the instruments for this study. Selection 91.313 Papulatlgn The city of Flint, Michigan, was the ideal location in which to conduct this study because the Mott Foundation has a large-scale adult education program. The Bishop Sewing Department sponsored by the Mott Foundation has the largest enrollment of Bishoo followers in the world. Flint Conmunity Junior College offered one adult sewing class for college credit; the traditional method of clothing construction was followed in this class. Therefore, it is ideal to study these two patterns of thought, - l7 - reasoninqs, and techniques in this area in the United States. Beginninn classes were selected because more basic learnings of each nethod were presented to a larger number of beginning sewers than advanced clothing c nstruction classes. The Flint Junior College class and the Bishop class selected for this study were taught by the same instructor, thus eliminating one variable. Formulation and Administration __L the instruments ii Surveyzo-After evaluati n of the reSponses in pretestinq, the first instrument was reuorded and distributed as a allot study to Flint Junior Voileqe students in the Ciothinn Construction Course l‘l, section l42. After further analysis and rewarding, the instrument was distributed to the two sewing groups chosen for this study. A cooy of the instrument is included in Appendix ii i. This survey was designed to secure basic information on the p0puiatlon ldescriptlon and background), their psychological attitudes and expectations, and their desires for learning and achievem~nt. Questions i through V defined the )ooulation; questions Vi through Xill gave a more detailed descrlotion ef the w~o latinn and their backgrrunds in clothing constructien; questions XIV through XX ill were designei to reveal the versonal attitudes of the p oulation. tuitisie-choice questizns con>rised the greater aortlon of the study; the last grouo of qu=stlcns t: the survey allowed soace for free- reso nse answers. A few unrelated questions to the survey were included for the writer's personal inquiry as a teacher. it the time of administration of the instrument, neither grouo had startei canstructi n of bliuses. The Dish 3 class had learnei s me of the basic technical skills an arincioles of this method; they had comoieted an awrsn anJ a gatherei skirt by t.e dished first learn- ing: methnd. Therefore, it might be assumed that these members coulf have fa'mulate* same basic c ncests and oersonal oainions on the basic learninjs. The college class. on the other hani, had not bCCUfl cl thing c nstructlon. The cantent of )revlgus class meetings included basic selection -f clothinj, color an} deslcn in clothlnq selection, and basic textile information. Svme c mments on ideas about exoectfitl.ns on course c ntent as relate! to )rcvious class meetings might be expected since both classes had bequn orior to -IQ- the study. All of the college class members lsevenl chose style number three of AdVance Pattern Number 9543. Eight of the eleven Bishop members surveyed chose the same style. Since only one style of blouse was se- lected for this‘dudy. another variable was eliminated. The instrument was designed to be completed by the women within two hours because of class time limits; both grOUps completed the survey in one hour class time. Both groups completed the survey in the evening hours, so psychological and physical conditions could be considered similar. The instructor distributed the instrument among both groups and clarified questions for the particloants. 2i Panel of judgess-oA panel of four Judges were chosen to score and evaluate the completed blouses. The judges were selected on the basis of their ability to be objective in criticism and scoring. Each judge had re- ceived Bachelor of Science degrees in home economics; they also had had clothing construction classes in col- leges. Although personal biases could not be eliminated entirely. objectivity of judging was stressed. Because of educational background and training of these judges. the writer feels confident that basic objectivity among these judges was kept at a high level. -2~3- Each judge evaluated the blouses indeoendently without time limit lsee the General Information for Panel of judges, Appendix iV, for specific information on evaluationi. A cOpy of the instrument is included '" ADDe-qd'x V. 3i instructor evaluationso-An instrument was formulated for the instructor of both classes. Each adult class member was scored and evaluated (see Aapendlx Vii. Technical skills were rated in numbers one through fourteen iPart ii; appearance of the finished garments was rated in the following twelve questions (Part iii: and personal characteristics and qualities were evaluated in the final nine questions lPart llii. Space was provided for comments qualifying the ratings. CHAPTER Ill JALYSES OF DATA Analvsls gihlhg Survey lnstrumenj_ The responses were tabulated, summarized, and recorded lsee Appendix llll. Responses to the direct answer questions were calculated by percentages; Open-end questions were divided into categories and summarized in the discussion. it Wescription and background of oppulationz-g Seven women were enrolled in the college class; a majority of_them lfouri were majors in home economics. Eleven women were enrolled in the Blshoo sewing class: none of this group were home economists. . 2| . TASLE l AGE OF PARTlClPANTS College Class Bishop Class Age lYearsl hbmber Percentage Number Percentage l9 or less 2 28.6 i 9.i 2) - 24 2 28.6 i 9.l 25 - 2" i i4.3 2 l8.2 30 - 3O 2 28.6 S 45.5 43 - 40 ------ ---------- i 9.! 5) - SQ -----— ---------- i 9.! The age range differed slightly in the two grnuas. A majority of the Bishop women lseveni were from the ages 25 through 20; the ages ranged from under 2) years through 5) to 5" years. The coilege women were almost equally distributed in the age groups through 39 years; the ages ranged from under 2) years through 3? to 39 years. from adult education class enrollments, it could be assumed that older women generally enroll in a course of instruction which d es not carry college credit. Considering ages of college students and the statistics of this study, college-credit courses generally enroll women younger in age than the adult education classes. Younger women seem to have different values and standards than older women. This one factor might lead one to eXpect different values, standards, and objectives in -23.. the two clothing c nstruction groups. TACLE 2 liaisEleil. ST-NTUS OF Phi-3TlCle'J'iTS College Class Bishoa Class Marital ., ___ _. Status __ " *' Number Percentage Number Percentage Single 2 28.6 ------ ---------- Engaged l l4.3 ---------------- harried 4 S7.l 9 8|.8 Widowed ------ - --------- 2 l8.2 All the Bishou population were currently married or had been married itwo were widowsi. Ye could exsect the goals and objectives of the Blshoa group to be more family-centered than the college students. The college credit suggests one goal for the college class members. Furthermore, almost one-half of the members of the col- lege class were single or engageds job opoortunities might influence their objectives. OCCUPNTfldef - 24 - TKCLE 3 PAETlClPkHTS Cccunation - “aux -“ —-- Co!lege Class Number Percentage e_z================= Bisho) Class Number Percentage Student 2 28.6 ------ -------_-- Part—time employee 4 57.l I C.| Full-time emwloyee i [4.3 4 36.4 Anticl)ated ' emfiloyment --——-- ---;------ ------ .......... Putt-time ' homemaker ----- ---------- 6 54,5 Types of Employment Professional 3 42.9 i 9.t Unskillei l l4.3 - ..... ---------- Clerical ------ --—------- 2 |e.2 Creative ' skilled - ----- --—--_-s-- j c,| Cperatlvz -----.. III---u—c-c-a- I Q.‘ As can be exoected, all the college members are "students“ literally. interestingly enough, htwever, a majority of them itivel classified themselves as partially or fully emoloyed. Only two of the seven checked the student resoonse. Furthermore, the two members who checked the student resoonse are not married. All of the married college students were oartiallv or fully em:loyel. The unmarried women who classified themselves as students did not respond to the anticioated employment response ito show future profession). None of the Bishoo women resgonded as students. Six reportei they were full-time housewives; the others were employed part or full-time. This limited group tends to indicate that homemakers are revealing renewed interest in the practical homemaking skills and that full-time housewives and emai.yed women are interested in learning a satisfactory method of clething c nstruction. The cemoarison of types of emrioyment is interesting. From the analysis of responses, the college group showed a majority of the w rkers were classified in professional fields; the Bishop grouo members oroved to be more diversified in clerical, skilled, creative w rk, and operative jobs. How- ever, not all the oarticipants clarified their particular tyues of emalovment. IN -26.. TABLE 4 EDUCXTlCNAL LEVEL OF PfiRTIClPANTS College Class Bishop Class Formal ___ - —‘ Education iww __. ‘~ Comoieted Number Percentage Number Percentage Sr. High 7 l) .J 6 54.5 Beyond High Schod i l4.3 3 27.3 All but one of the college students resoonded to the freshmen classification. The college entrance requirements include a high school diploma. One student had completed two and one-half years beyond high school. Not all the Blshoo members had comoleted high school. Four did not have high school diplomas; six had dial mas. Three of the high school graduates had additional formal education beyond high scho i; they are presently employed. Only one woman who did not c muiete high school was emplayed lshe was the oldest in the grouo and was emaloyed as a clerkl. Presumably, the college students were seeking college degrees. Four of them are majors in home economics; Clothing Construction Course lOl is a core c urse within this curriculum. it is to be espected that later they would use their clothing construction -27.. crefiits at another institution towards a bachelor degree. The BishO) women, however, did not indicate to have this educational oval in mind.- They were attending non-credit classesc TfiBLE 5 PREVIOUS CLOTHING C HSTRUCTILN CLASSES ====s-*- 6: -*~—-- ... College Class Bishop Class Type of _e_.___. Training Number Percentage fiumber Percentage —" Class instruction 5 7l.4 7 63.6 learned nthome 6 85.7 l0 (7.9 i‘ViO ”7.9 "....flg . .403 i 90' ....- -- -fl“ - vn—np- Range of sewing exoerience in years 3-23 i-35 Ave. yr. sewing exaerience 8.5 i4.l m-o Tyoes of Class instruction Jr. ii‘Gh SChOO' 3 42.9 7 6306 Sr. High Scho l 4 S7.l 3 27.3 4-H Club 2 28.6 2 l8.2 Future Howe" of Nnerica Club i l4.3 ------ ..—....-......_.. Girl Scouts of Ame" 'C. ‘ ' '4.3 ----'0'- I- ----- ---- Adult education -—---- ----~---—- l 9.l Singer center - ----- ---------- 2 t8 2 ......— em - - ‘8 - All but two college students had had cl thing constructirn classes in junior or senior hieh scho i. They classified the classes as beginning or inter- mediate classes. One of the twr women who had received no school clothing instruction had learned to sew from a relative. fill but four Bishoo students had cl thing c n- structlon in scho l, ranging from beginning to advanced classes. Three of the four women who had no training in school had learned 5 me sewing from their mothers. The fourth woman did not specify, but she had sewed for it years. in summary, all of the Bishou grou) had sewed before, whereas 86 oer cent of the students had sewed before c ming to eillege. Eighty-six oer cent of the college women had learnei some sewing techniques from their mothers or aunts; they had sewet over a range of three to 2) years, averaginj eight and one-half years each. Ninety-one per cent of the gisho) women res onded that they had learned s me sewing techniques at home; the years of sewing ranged from one to 35, averaging about l4 years each. Seventy-one oer cent of the e liege students had supalemented their sewing training by taking one or more classes from organizations or at school; 64 oer cent - 29 - had done so in the Bishop class. Table 5 shows the percentage of population in each group with no f rmal training is camoarable. TABLE 6 PPEViQJS CiOTthP-PELATE‘ JOBS ...—... _J W College Class Bishop Class ‘ Tynes of Jobs Number Percentage Number Percentage Garment factory worker 2 28.6 ................ Ready-to-wear sales clerk 2 28.6 -----. ---------- Four students in the college class had been employed in a ciothingnrelated job; none of the Bisth sewers had been emaioyed in this tyne of work. Two of txe college members had w rked in garment factories from "ac to five years; the two other college members had worked as sales clerks from four months to :ne year. - 30 — TABLE 7 PREVIGJS OPERATICN ("-F SE: ihG trACEINES ====a____..__..__n._~. '1=2:23;...——__=============== College Class Bishop Class Tyoes of hmchines Number Percentage Number Percentage Kenmore 5 7l.4 4 36.4 hhcchi i l4.3 ------ —-- ------- Singer 6 85.7 7 63. hhite 2 28.6 4 36.4 Others 2 28.6 3 27.- Treadle 6 85.7 7 63.6 Electric 6 85.7 to ”3.9 AUi'Oinai'C | .403 ' {0' N00! ....... - ..... I 9.. The colleee group had 0)erate' Kore tyoes of sewing machines than the iisL-o grouv. Kenmore, Singer, and hhite were commonly used in the c liege grouo, while only Singer and white were commonly used by the Bishoo grouo. tore women had Operated the electric sewing machines than the treadle machines in the Lishoo ngU). This may be surprising since this grsuo represents a wider age range, and it might be eXpected that more treadle machines w:uld have been oderated by the elder w-men in the Bishop group. An equal number of women had overated treadle as electric machines in the college or U). only ~ne member in each groua had onerated an automatic sewing machine. J) - 3i - "What cotton fabrics have you worked with in cl thing c nstruction2"-- A majority of women in both gr-uos had sewed with corduroy, broadcloth, gingham, and muslin. in addition, within the dishOp grouo a majority of women had sewed with percale; a majority of the college grouo had had experience with gabardine, marquisette, terrycioth, velveteen, and voile. This indicates that a majority or college students have used more cotton fabrics than the Bishoo group. furthermore, the college grouu checked 22 fabrics. with which they had had trevious experience; the Bishop ‘fOUD resQCnded to l8 fabrics. "hhat garments or articles have you constructed at home, school, work, and group organizations?'-- Twenty-three types of garments were listed lsee Avpendix lll). Each of these garments had been constructed by at least one woman in the Bishop grouu; every tyve of garment excewt the coats had been c nstructed by women in the traditional, college class. A majority of hishoo women had sewed blouses (sleeveless and with set-in sleeves), skirts (gathered. pleated, and straight), dresses, girls' ajamas, and aorons. A majority of the college women had sewed blouses lslreveless and with set—in sleeves), skirts (gathered, oleated, flared, and straight), dresses, and aprons. Previously, the majority of women in both grouos have sewed similar garments. There was no way of comoaring the average number of each type of garment constructed by each woman because over one-third of the Bishop particioants in the survey misinterpreted the question in the survey. ”What construction details have you made on a garment?"-— A majority of both groups have sewed on buttons, turned hems, set in slide fasteners and sleeves, and made pleats, tucks, darts, gathers, cuffs, oatch pockets, and plackets. furthermore, a majority of college students had sewed fitted facings and made bound buttonhoies. A majority of the Bishoa grouo hwd sewed buttons with a shank, made machine and hand-worked buttonhoies, and set in Dockets. While college students worked with more fabrics, the Bishoo particinants had sewed a greater variety of construction details. This is unusual because the survey showed that the c ilewe grou: had more formal training in clothing construction. Perhaos this difference can be explained by the fact that the average age of BishO) women was higher, providing a wider span of years for experiences and -33.. that a majority of them were homemaker: la role which offers ooaortunity for clothing constructi.nl. When considering use of seam tape, bias taot, and self-made belts, it was found that the majority of both grouos responded affirmatively. Self-covered buttons and buckles were used by five of the members in the traditional group i7l oer centi as contrasted to only three members in the Bishop class (27 per centi. in consideration of oast experiences, the majority of adult women who oartlcioated in the study appeared to have some familiarity with basic con— struction details. Therefore, the conclusion might be drawn that the adult women enrolled in these classes not entirely for beginning clothing in- struction. The fact is imoortant to point out here that both courses of study required a beginning course as a prerequisite to advanced study in clothing construction. "which garments and construction details do you think will be too difficult for you to attemot after completion of this class?'- Almost one-half of the colieqe class and Bishop class oarticipants felt that coats, suits, and men's trousers wouid be too difficult to attempt after completion of the current class. In addition, '3 -._.A - the Bishoa particiaants felt that jackets would be too difficult.v Cther difficult c-nstructi:n details liste? ‘y the Cishoa class include: bound button- holes and tailored c liars. These two c nstruction details required 5 ecializei skills which they had not devcl bed. The c liege class listed no con- struction details too difficult to learn, ntr had they )reviously esperiencel sewing as many construction details as the Blshoa class. it would aoaear that the college class ex2ected to learn many details. "Which garments and construction details do you consider fun to do?"-- when considerinq which garments and construction details were fun to do, a high )ercentage l43 per cent) of the college stuients mentione? a gathered skirt, tucks, and darts; 46 to 65 )er cent of the Sishoa class resoonled to sleeveless blouses; tethered, pleated, flared, and straight skirts; girls pajamas, machine-worked buttonhoies; and hcms. Thisis quite a contrast. The BishOp class considered all types of skirts fun to sew, while the college class felt that only the gathered skirt was fun to do. Three college students (27 oer centl felt that no oarment or construction details whatsoever would be fun to do; one oarticl ant in the kishOp group i? oer centl - 35 - felt similarly. On the whole, the Bishos oarticioants expected to enjoy t'e construction class more than the college students. 2) Attitudes of the participants: "What were your four main purposes in taking this course?"—- TABLE 8- College Class Bishoo Class Lain Purooses Number Percentage Number Percentage *_ A Learn newest techniques 4 S7.l i? 93.9 Learn fashion coordination 4 S7.l - ----- -—-—-—-—-- Requirement for _ advanced study 5 7i.4 6 54.5 Learn pattern alteration 4 S7.l 7 63.6 Save money ----- - ~--------- 6 54.5 'The four main nurooses given by the college grouo are: learn the newest techniques, learn about fashion coordination, complete requirement for advanced study, and learn about pattern alteration; the main purposes listed by the BidIOp group are: learn the newest techniques, complete requirement for advanced. study, learn about pattern alteration, and save money. Each purpose was selected by a majority of class I) members indicating multiple response to this question. Three of the four rurooses mentioned in each group are identical. lThese ourooses for taking the class are not the same as the reasons listed far taking an advanced class on page 52.l "Can you think of any disadvantages in taking this course?"-- TABLE 9_ DlSADVAYTh3ES Cr CLASS m W- W College Class Bishop Class liste} Disadvantages Number Percentage Number Percentage Class held too long 2 28.6 ------ ---fl4----- Choiced’ method ‘ restricted ~~~~~~ ~----—---- 2 l8.2 Two participants in each grouu mentioned disad- vantages of taking the course. Time length (mentioned by a member ‘f the college classi and method restrictions iresaonse recorded from the Sishoa classl were the two main disadvantages. However, the majority felt that there were no main disadvantages in taking the class. - 37 - 'Can you think of any advantages in taking this course?"-— TABLE t0 AFVXNThGES OF CLASS m" "‘""’ "W“ ’ College Class Bishop Class Listed A Advantages Number Percentage VMmber Percentage Learn new ndhod 2 28.6 _ 4 36.4 learn about new fabrics 2 28.6 i 9.l Learn about color sel- ection 2 28.6 ---------------- Save money i l4.3 2 l8.2 learn pattern alteration l l4.3 4 36.4 Learn method's orinciples 2 28.6 i Q.l Sharing exper- iences with new friends -—-——- ---------- 2 l8.2 Learn speed . techniques ------ ---“----_- 4 36.4 Opportunity to . develop hobby ------ -.. ........ j 9.. m—H -..‘—_‘ All of the participants listed one or more advantages to the class. The college students responded that they learned about new methods of c nstruction, new fabrics, colors in clothing selection, money manage-» ment in the clothing budget, pattern alterations, and traditional clothing e nstruction principles. Some of these areas had been covered prior to the survey in this class. The Bishoo women resaonded to all except one of l“. ‘ .. i ‘ the learnings listed in Table l). Over one-third l36 per centl of the filshoo f‘llowers listed the advantages of learning a new method, pattern alter- ations, and soeed techniques. This favorable reaction to learning follows along with the phl‘ losowhy rrf Mrs. Bishop' teachings. She stresses these three advantages in lectures to all adult women. "Do you exoect your finished garments will be better, the same, or poorer than similar ready-to—wear garments?”-~ Yhen asked whether the darticiaants expected their garments to be better, the same, or ooorer than similar ready-to—wear garments, only one member of the college class felt her finished garment would not be better. One-hundred oer cent of the Sishoo women felt their garments would be better than re'dy-to-wear garments. This escectatlon is high and above that attained or strived for by many women sewing for themselves. Mrs. Bisho» teaches and strives for oerfection, but she admittedly states that she acce>ts and hoses to attain lwith her speed techniquesl products of comparable standards to quality ready-to-wear garments. I; -39... ”Are you more interested in the techniques of sewing c nstruction or skills or in the fundamental arinclples and knowledde of aoplicatidn of these princizles-of sewin12"-- TABL C(ifrtqrnig l Skid l: _ ==================1============as========================= College Class BlShO) Class Area of interest Number Percentage Number Percentage Technical skills 4 S7.l 5 45.5 Princlwles aid values 3 42.9 5 45.5 No comment - ----- ----- ----- l 9.i it was assumed orlor to this study that the college grou> would be interested in the fundamental princi les and a knowledge of the a)plication if the uri ciol s of sewing and that the bishoa group would be primarily inter- ested in the techniques of sewing construction or skills. However, the analysis of res onses lsee Table lll indicated that these two grout: are about equally divided in their resaonses to the question. "Tould you like to have a set of samfilcs on construction details (for exam ie, a corded b.tton- holel?"—- TABLE l2 £31.11“ 511 as C(I-JSTDUCIIFN nr- 1%“ College Class Bishoo Class Ee)lv A _A __ Number Percentage hhmber Percentage YCS 6 85.7 '3 90.9 hb l i4.3 l 9.i Before this study the writer thought that the college class might like to have a set of samples on construction details. They could be used later for teaching aids. it was assumed that the Bisho> class would not be interested because they would have no practical use for them. he majority of resoonses from both classes, however, were affirmative (86 to 9i per centl in rsizing sets of construction details. -4I- "Do you think that you will accept the nethods taught in this class if they are different from those you learned before?".. TABLE :3 ACCE PTINNCE or MaTHOD ..-—.- .- College Class Bishop Class Reasons for Acce)tance of Method Number Percentage hbmber Percentage Method applic- able today 2 28.6 ------ ---------- Other methods unknown 2 28.6 I 0.. Future methods better i l4.3 i 9,| Faster method -««---. ---------- 5 45.5 Easier method ---”--- --- ------- 4 36.4 Better-looking prOdUC’ ----“‘- -----~—--- 2 '8.2 A majority of the groups felt that they would accept the method taught in the class even if it were different from the one learned before. The reasons, "Faster method” and "Easier method", llste' in Table l3 are unique objec- tives of the BishOp method of sewing. The reason, "Better- looking product", is generally accredited to traditional sewing, although none of the college class members mentioned it. However, two BlShOp participants ll8 per centl listed this reason. Attitude resoonses in the two groups corresponded in many instances throughout this study instead of showing contrast as might have been exoected from diverse grOUps. -42... "Do you think that you will accept the rethods taught in this class as the only good and reasonable methods?"-- __T.=\BL§ 1.4 Aegenlm or liE‘l'lp-DS A aUU) Alp REASCMBLE cm— W College Class Bishop Class EeSponses Number Percentage Number Percentage Affirmative 2 28.6 3 27.3 Negative 5 7l.4 7 63.6 No come n t ------ Reasons for Negative Resoonses future methods better 2 28.6 3 27.3 other methods - accestable 2 28.6 3 27.3 Teacher biased l l4.3 ----.-.. ...... ..... .. individual tmflhxfiwduwid blend ----- ---—------ i 9.: A great similarity existed between the grouns, esoecially in the negative and affirmative reSporses and the reasons given for the negative response. The CishOp merbers aspeared to feel the same as the college groua; they did not feel that the method they would learn was the only good method of teaching clothing construction. c 43 - "Do you feel that the method taught in the class will be the most oractical today f.r your use and staniards?"-- TABLE l5 ACCC. PTANCE. ('F LE “WOW 5 PR ‘xCT ICAL USE , College Class bishop Class Responses Number Percentage lumber Percentage Affirmative 5 7i.4 ii i03.0 Undecided 2 28.6 -...-- "...-....-.- Reasons for Affirmative Responses .- Needs met 3 42.9 2 i8.2 lv’ethod faster ...... --..--_..-..- 4 36.4 hethod . undérskxd -—u--- —----——--- 3 27.3 Other methods . ”Rh 0"“!!! ------ -..----'P--’- . 9.. The survey showed a slight difference in the reasoning of the grou? members in this question. All of the “ishoo women responded affirmatively; only 7i per cent of the college group resoonded affirmatively. The remaining 20 oer cent of the college grOUp gave no exolanatlons for their indecisive responses lsee Table iSl. The Bishoo oarticipants appeared confident in giving explanations; four different resoonses were given. The explanation might be that Bishoo classes are not core courses within a curriculum offered for credit toward a degree. The women have explicit personal reasons for -44.. ’i wanting to learn how to Sew. They have Shoppe? ’ asking ab ut classes within their social around' groups. leho. classes for adult women have always emahasized the practical asoect of the skill, while in 1 colle e class t e fundamental orinciples are given greater e ohasis. "Do you expect you will foil w the methods you learn in the class after you complete the course?"-- TABLE l6 ‘ :4 #5111313? (1.! 5p .1 | rmm L: mm College Class Bishoa Class Resoonses #- A hbmber Percentage Number ’ercentage Affirmative 3 42.9 ii l33.3 Negative 4 57.! -.-—-- --....---_ Lhen asked whether one would foiluw the method: one ie3rncd in the class after canaletion of the course. the Bishoo members resoondcd i3) per cent affirmatively lsee Table i6). On the other hand, the college students were divided between affirmative and negative resoonses. Each grou> further expressed that their infividual needs were met by following their resoective method of clothing construction. The college class exolained that they would not foil w the methods learned in class because future methods might be better, other methods would be -45.. useful when combined with the traditional method of construction, and it is impossible to comprehend all of the techniques of the traditional method. The BishOp group felt that they would follow the Blshoo method of clothing construction because they did not kn w of any other method of construction at the time of the surveyyand because they felt that the BishOp method is fast. easy. and accurate. "Do you feel you can learn effectively in an informal atmosphere?'- Both grouos resoonded l0) oer cent affirm- atively to the question asking whether they felt they could learn effectively in an informal atmosphere. Over one-third of the members in each class felt that in an informal situation, questions could be answered, ideas could be shared in the class. and the casualness of everyday living would be continued in the class. ”Db you welcome the Opportunity of socialization with other women in a clothing construction class?'-- All but one of the il Bishop participants welcomed the opoortunity of socialization with other women in a clothing construction class. The dissenter tggard socialization in the wrou» explained that her job met her social needs adequately. All of the college class members oreferred the opportunity of socialization. a 46 a The members giving one or more reasons for their positive reaction to the question listed the advantages of friendshio, the exchange of ideas, and the sharing of common interests lsee Table l7i. Reasons for Socialization ..-: TABLE l7 PREFERENCE FL??? SOCiAl. lZATlU‘l -—-——-o4::=--2======================= College Class Bishoa Class hbmber Percentage Number Percentage Exchange of ideas 5 7l.4 2 l8.2 Friendship 4 S7.l 5 54.5 Share common interests i i4.3 3 27.3 ...—— "Do you think you could learn clothing construction techniques from demonstrations on televisions"-- TABLE i8 Ewen ISEJAlI TELEVlS lCN ' I In College Class Bishoo Class Views on Educational 7— Television Number Percentage humber Percentage Affimative i l4.3 2 l8.2 Negative 5 7i.4 8 72.7 Undecided i i4.3 'i 9.l On the whole, both trouos felt they could not learn cl thing construction techniques from demonstrations on - 47 q television lsee Table l8i. This question was asked for the writer's personal inquiry. Those who felt that television was =ossible as a learning device soeclfied that the 3emonstrations should be kewt simple. Negative reSponses were balanced from both gr-uos. Lack of thorough eXpianation and lack of versonai time to view television were given as two reasons. This last reason indicate! a misunderstanding of the question because it was assumed that one would have the time to watch the television de onstration if one had time to come to scho.l for similar instruction. One Blshoo adult mentioned the im ossibiilty of asking questions. The personal explanation is a value she olaced,e5pec- iaiiv high. Actually, the writer has observed that most students watching a demonstration do not ask questions even when they havetime and the 0)portunlty. The objection appears to be a pyscfiolcgical restriction of not having-the freedom cf ch ice to ask questions. "Do you prefer films imoviei over television for learning clothing construction techniquese".. Pm: _ F {t.‘Pl‘lQISC‘ul (F EDUC‘TICfN-‘l V‘iLUE.8F TtLEVlSlU‘J Alli) FlLM -.. ...—r- -—.-——.- - -. ... - .... , .. College Class Bishoo Class Preference of hedia " hbmber Percentage hbmber Percentage Film over TV 2 28.6 i 9.i TV over film 4 S7.l l0 90.9 Undecided l l4.3 ------ ---------- fl Reasons for Television Preference Lack of time for exam- ination 2 28.6 i 9.! Questions «I not be answered l l4.3 2 i8.2 Attention not attained in f; 'm ‘ '4.3 --.---- ---------- Personal . dislike ---- ------- 2 l8.2 -““— fl w w Although television was rejected in a general question about television instructioniin which the respondent undoubtedly canvared classroom with tele- vision instructioni. it seemed to be favored over film for learning clothing construction techniques lsee Table l9l. The class members gave one or more reasons for their preference of television over film instruction - 4C - lsee Table I”). These reasons are lncomolete reSponses because they do not seem to compare the two media in question. "What is your degree or standard of quality for your finished garment constructed in this class?"-- TABLE 23 EXPECTATION CF ACCEPTABlLiTY OF FINISHED GARMENT Acceptabiilty College Class Bishoo Class Number Percentage bbmber Percentage Acceptability to the Instructor __ __.A Perfection in all details - 3 42.9 3 27.3 Acceptable in 6" deTatis 4 579' 6 54.5 Acceptable in most details ------ ----‘----- 2 l8.2 Acceptabilitv to the Participant Acceotable in all details 5 7l.4 4 ' 36.4 Acceptable in most details 2 28.6 7 63.6 A. A 2 Success in clothing c nstruction was desired by all particioants according to the recorded responses in the survey. “eqree of success, if based upon the accept- ability question, seemed to be different for the two groups lsee Table 23). in the college class a majority of particioants responded to "acceptability in all -50- details to the instructor" rather than "perfection in all details". Furthermore, the c liege class expected a garment to be "accedtable in all details to themselves” rather than "acceptable in most details to themselves". in comparing the two gr1ups from these responses, however, the college students exvressed a desire to attain perfection in more details than the Blshoo group. The Bishoa class as a majority felt that they wanted their garments "acceutabie in all details to the instructor" rather than having "perfection in all details" or being "acceatable in most details. to the instructor". However, they also felt they wanted their garments to be acceatabie to themselves in most details rather than all details. if the garment is acceatable in all details to the instructor, but only in most detail: to the individual, reasoninq would follow that the OafiiClgafli is more critical of the garment than the instructor. in actual practice this writer feels this situation is rarely found when a teacher rates student work; therefore, the analysis of res onses here seems quite c ntradictory to real-life situations. "Do you think that the money involved in enrollment in this class has affected the desire you have to learn?"—~ TABLE $' ATTiTUDE CM COS CF CLASS College Class Blshoo Class Desire in Learn vs. cost of class Number Percentage Number Percentage —'—‘Tf Lbney affected desire to learn 2 28.6 ------ -------_-- Money has not affected desire to learn 5 7‘04 '. .0000 —_ A majority of members in each class felt that the money involved in enrollment in class had not affected their desire to learn lsee Table 2i). Esplana- tlons for the affirmative responses were "getting' their money's worth" and "fear of class repetition" ltherefore costing more money and timei. Those members who responded negatively to this question mentioned the worthiness of theciass and said they did not mind spending the money for the course fee and the equipment since they were learning a new method of clothing construction. u ' "Do you expect to take further clothing con— struction classes?”-~ TABLE 22 IhJTEiE‘EST W a; '>lTl<;ll‘~.l. CL-‘lsss , . College Class Bishoo Class interest Response ‘T ibmber Percentage hMmber Percentage Affirmative 6 85.7 to . 90.9 ikgative l l4.3 I 9.I Reasons for Affirmative Response Desire to ‘ learn 2 28.6 8 72.7 ’Curriculum VQQUiI’ZmC’I'Ii 4 57.. ...-I.- ..-- -—------ Desire to . fl imorove skill-mun. ----—----- 2 l8.2 All but one member in each class 3esired to enroll in the next clothing construction class. Cver 63 per cent of the students of each class further mentioned they wanted to take the next class as soon as possible. Both classes expressed their desire to learn more about clothing construction; the Bishoo women further mentioned their desire to imarove skill; the college women saecified that the next class would fulfill curriculum requirements. A comparison of the reasons for taking advanced clothing .construction courses shows that the Bishop women were concerned about learning the techniques of clothing - S3 - construction; the college students placed curriculum requirements first and a desire to learn second lsee .Table 22). The college students awpeared to be professionally-directed; the homemakers in the Holt foun’ation Bishop class were judging clothing con- struction classes from the practical viewpoint. Ylth the college group, a comparison of the pur,oses for taking the course lsee Table 8, page 35l with reasons for enrolling in an advanced clothing construction course lsee Table 22, page 52) indicate a strong orientation to curriculum requirements: learning new techniques or the related procedures were lesser in importance. With the Eisho» 3rooo, a comparison of these too tables shows a strong motivation to learn new techniques in clothing con- struction. The comparisons of these two questions shows a clear differentiation of the two classes, the puraoses in their snecific formsof education, and the vgeneral purposes of the two educational institutions rearesented. Analysis of Score Sheets‘gl the PaneL.gi Judges The analysis responses on the score sheets of the four judges were summarized and recorded. The ratings'for each skill were totalled; saecific comments of each judge were recorded in a summary. ii Mastery of technical skill: TABLE 23 STlTCHlHG ABiLlTY OF STUUENTS AS RATED BY JUDGES lN USE OF CkRBUN LINES W College Class Bishoo Class Ratings (Number of (Number of Ratingsl Patingsi Straight, Clear Carbon Lines m_—' mastery of still i i Average mastery of skill 2 3 Average mastery of skill. but unacceotabie i ------- _——_‘ w —__ _—_—f Stitching Over Carbon Lines hastery of skill ------ --- i Above average mastery of skill i --------- Average mastery of skill i 2 Average mastery of skill. but unacceotable 2 l Straight Stitching Lines Abon mefigemaday'of ski: 2 Average mastery of ski 2 (a)- -55... The traditional method used by the c:llege class required that all seam lines be carbon marked; these carbon lines mark the width of the seam and guide the line of stitching. Three of the four judtes felt that the college class acquired at least an average mastery of marking straight, clear carbon lines; one of these judges rated the group as having achieved the mastery of this skill lsee Table 23i. All the judges lfouri rated the skill of stitching over the carbon lines as average; two of these judges, however, felt t*e stitching was unacceptable to them even though t‘e mastery of skill was average. he speed method of clothing c nstruction followed by the Bis ow grous does not carbon mark the seam lines with the result that there is less carbon marking and fewer guide lines. Only detailed ooints, such as darts, teats, and told lines, are carbon marked; seam lines are stitched using a guage on the machine. All the judges scored carbon lines of the Elshoo class as straight and clear. Cn the average, the judges scored the mastery of straight stitc ing lines hifiher for the college grouw than the hishoo grfiua lsee Table 23l. The stitching lines of the college class werv guided by carbon lines; the stitching lines of the dishow class £5 ’ were determined by the edge of the seam allowance running alwng a stitching guide wiaced on the throat >late ~t the sewing machine. The stitchln1 lines of both grouws were acceptable to all of the judses. TASLE 24 RATIFGS BY JUDGES FC? THREADS SECUVELY FKSTEHEU AT E7355 C llefie Class Lishog Class Patings lhbmber of (Numeer of Ratings) Ratings) Abave average mastery of skill i ---------- ’\ Average mastery of skill 3 2 Below average mastery of --------- i' skill , - iel w average mastery of skill and unaccewtable -- ---—-- l Thread ends were securely fastene” in the college groua by backstitcLing or tieing the threads. in the Pishop class 5) oer cent of the judges felt that the ends were not securely fastened; the l ckstitch method was used. One iudqe commented that the threads were not cl sely cliope’ in the Sishop class; irs. 'isho stresses cl se cliw int of thread ends to keep can» structlnn w-rk neat in aopearance. However, the degree of close clip>ing is a value judgment upon which the judge and Mrs. Bishop do not seem to be in agreement. -57.. "" TABLE 25 uATlN‘BS BY JUDGES FOR CORRECT STITC" HG LEi'33T£~-;S College Class Bishoo Class Ratings (Number of (Number of Ratingsl Ratingsl Regular Stitching Above average mastery of skill 2 --------- Average mastery of skill i 4 Below average mastery of skill l --------- Stavstitching tfw Above average mastery or skill i l Average mastery of skill i 3 Below average mastery of skill and unacceptable i -------- - Still not acceatable l -:~~--—-- One of the judges rated the regular stitching done by the college grous as average and one below averave as comaared to the fodr judges who rated the Bishox grouo as having stitching as average lsee Table 25l. Although the length of the regular machine stitches in the c lleje class were rated above average by S) oer cent of the judges, the length of the staystitches fell below average. The judges who rated length of staystitches as below average also rate? the mastery of skill unacceptable -58.. 3! to them. On the whole, the hishoo grouo of blouses receivet a rating of average from all the judges in scoring the length of staystitches. TABLE 26 mums CF JU'DES (N BstES m sax: moms, SAYSTITtht-G Iii-TEES, HEh‘lS OF Bl. USES, Hills (3E SLEEVES, ANS) tel-.15 CF FACll‘GS == ... —g» or a. c__ o.;========== C llege Class Bishop Class Ratings lNumber of lNumber of Ratinwsl Ratingsi Seam Widths hastery of skill -~------- l Above average mastery of r“ 8k... ’ ' “-..-..-... Average mastery of skill 2 2 Average mastery of skill, but unacceotabie i """‘”*‘ Below average mastery of skill and unacce table --------- i A...— _ _ w Staystitching Widths Mastery of skill - ----- --- l Above average mastery of skill --------- 2 Average mastery of skill i i Eel w average mastery of skill i --------- Below average mastery of skill and unacceptable 2 -~------— .* m (I , '\_l l ‘. l -sc... TABLE 26 - C ntinued “A College Class Bisho: Class Ratings ihhmber of (Number of Ratinisl Ratingsl Hems of Blouses Above average mastery of skill 2 l Average mastery of skill i l Average mastery of skill, but unacceotable l —- ------- Below average mastery of skill and unacceatable ---—--- -- l Skill not acceotable ---------- ; fl *7 Hems of Sleeves Ab ve average mastery of skill i --------- Average mastery of skill 2 ' 2 Below average mastery of skill and unacceotable i i Skill not done and unacceotable ---------- l m w Hems of Facings Above average mastery of skiii ---- _____ | Average mastery of skill 2 --------- Below average mastery of skill and unacceotable l 2 No Comment i l —._. __ Each class received an average rating from 5) per cent of the judges in all wind correct width for the -63.. seams lsee Table 26!. The college class had some irregular ail0wances (some all wances were wider than requiredl. Roth methwds of clothing construction required main construction seams to Le finished tive- elghths of an inch in width. The Blshoa class received higher ratings than the college class for stitching the c rrect width for staystitching lines. All the judges felt the mastery of skill for this grouo was average to above average. On the other hand, all f or Indies felt the mastery of skill in the college gr up was telsw avera*e t- average; two §udoes felt the widths were unaccc table in the college group. The traditi nal method has a staystitch— inq width one-sixteenth at an inch or a few threads fr-m the carb n line of the seam line. The -ish a method 5 eclties that staystitchint should be one.half of an inch from the outside e ges of the fabric iin other words. one-eighth of an inch from the seam linel. The hem allowances for the blouse hem, sleeves, and facings in the college class were acce table to a majority of the judges; hem all wances in the Bishow class were rated "unacceotable‘ and "bel w average" by the majority of lud es lsee Table 26l. C mments concerning the w rk -t the sisho class were directed to infirovements of details, such as the cliwoed A‘u -63- thread ends, the variations in hem widths, azd the twisted hems. Both STOUDS were exoected to use two-inch sleeve hems and facing allowances according to the commercial matters. The bottcm eige of the bl*uses coJld be finished in a hem of one-quarter of an inch in width or by two rows of stitching near the sinked lower edge of garment. TASLE 27 *- rzanp‘35 av woes m alouses FOR oar-mm an cr er ano Meir-es, GUSSETS, HEMS OF BLEUSES, SLIDC FASTENERS, Hews OF SLEEVES, DARTS, AND TUCKS J" wan-‘7 *—— :— _:— College Class Bishop Class Ratings lhhmber of iNumber of ' ratings) Ratinqsi Fitted Facings Mastery of skill --------- l Above average mastery of skill 3 --------- Average mastery of skill ----s---- i Average mastery of skill, but unacceptable l i Skill not acceptable -«-—---—- l Gussets Above average mastery of skill l ~ -------- Average mastery of still 2 2 . Below average mastery of skill -----.-_ g No comment i t 62 - 3A ‘ TAoLE 27 - thtinued College Class Bishop Class Ratings (Number of (Number of Ratingsl Ratingsi tbms of Blouses Above average mastery of skill l l Average mastery of skill 3 3 Slide Fasteners mastery of s’ill i ------ Abfive average mastery of skill . l l Average mastery oi skill l l .—\ Average mastery of skiih - but unacceotable —_ w- w — l Below average mastery of skill and unacceotable -------- l kkms of Sleeves Ab ve average mastery of skill 2 i Average mastery of skill l -----—~— Average mastery of skill. but unacce table -——------ 2 Below average mastery of skill and unacceztable l i Darts hhstery of skill i ------- Above averaae mastery of skill i 2 Average mastery of skill 2 2 an __ -63.. TAJLE 27 - C ntinued ”...—..-- fl *— Cellege Class Bishoo Class Ratings lhbmber of (Number of Ratings) Ratings) Tucks .— Abeve average mastery of skill 3 2 Average mastery of skill ------- - 2 Celow average mastery of skill and unacceptable l -—-—--~- Three—fourths of the judges scored the general 'etfect of the fitted facings to he above averaoe in mastery of skill in the coileae grou ; in the iishop qrouo the ratings ranged from "mastery of skill" to "skill not acceptable" (see Table 27l. Although the skill of the Bishoa class was I wer than the other grouo on the average, the Bishoo method of understitching in the fitted facing: was highly approved and recom- mended by the majority of judges. Since the mastery of skill was not high, some facings tended to roll over, revealing the understitching on the outsi e of the garment. The facing: were completely concealed in the garments which were constructed by a student with a higher degree of skill. The tacings sewed by the traditional method lay flat but were not completely u. - 63 - concealed. Therefore, in this part of the garment, the college class exhibited better mastery of tech- nical skill, but the method foll wed by the Bishoo class was more desirable. The general effect of the gussets was more desirable in the college class than in the bishop class (see Table 27l. The traditional method omitted tooastitching because the use of additional tone in the corners reinforced the gussets. In the 3ish0p method either too-stitching around the entire gusset or stitc ing in t e c rners going outward about one- fourth of an inch into the main oiece ofthe garment was taught. Neither of these acce>table alternatives were attempted by the BishOp members, there y l wering the rating f acceptability to the judges in this class. The corners were reinforced well in the college group, thereby helping raise the rating to above average for mastery of stitching gussets. Staystitching was noticable around the gussets in two blousesmade by Bish)p me bers. B>th grouos of gussets revealed some auckers at the corners. in Table 27 it can be seen the judges rated both orouvs the same for general effect of the blouse hems. The evenness and flatness of hems in the college class, however, were considere’ much better than those same qualities in the Bishoo class. Using the BishOp s) - 64 - method, either the hem could be sewed by machine into a one-fourth of an inch hem or the bottom eigc could be oinked and double-stitche’. Seam tawe bound or stitched fiat to the bottom edge of the garments was also acceptable in the traditional Hethod. IThis choice of method can be found on page 37l in Clothing Construction by Evelyn A. Nansfield.t The judges commented that the slide fasteners were inserted successfully and neatly in the colleve class; the (033 coverinw the teeth of the slide fasteners tende? to twist in the Dish-p class. Also, the widths of the laps in the college grou; were more desirable to the judges than those in the Bishoo nrouo. On the whole, the general effect of the slide fasteners was slightly higher in the colleae class than in the Bishoo class isee Table 27la Three-fourths of the judges rated the sleeve hems of the Bishoa groua as unacceutable (see Table 27l. This was exolained by the comwents that a majority of the sleeve hems were stitched by hand; the 8isho~ method teaches the sleeve hems of c tton bl uses should be sewed by the blind—stitch technique on the sewing machine. Two of the judges rated the sleeve hems of the college grown as above average; they commented Umun the even, neat hand stitches of the traditional nethod. -65- All darts were sewed with average or above average mastery of still according to the ratings of judges lsee Table 27l. The college class ranget from'hverage"to "mastery of skill"; the Cisho~ class ranged from "average“ to "above average mastery of still“. Three of the four judges felt that darts stitched by the college group had excellent, tavered points. The resoonses concerning the general effect of the tucks were variel. Several of the tucks in the blouses of the college class were pulled out because the threads were not securely tied. The lockstitck technique in the Glshou method seemed to be correctly executed or adequate to hold the waist- line tucks. TABLE 28 RATINGS BY JU')’3ES CN Pl. USES FCR SIIAPlI‘ 3 AN‘: PRESSING DeRlz‘S (IJl‘JSTRUC'ZTlLN College Class dishoa Class Ratings libmber of lfiumber of Ratings) Ratlngsi Alxwe average mask” of till I I Average mastery of skill 2 l Average m‘stery of skill, but unacce)table ------»—- 2 Rel'w average mastery of skill and unacceptable l -----_-—- fit - 66 - Generally, bvth grouss had pressei as recom- mended in construction of blouses. Pressing techniques, which are very similar for both grouws, were demon- strated in each class; both methods suggest dressing before the garme”t is finished. in the Bishoo method, pressing is referred to as a technique in the unit method of cl thing canstruction. 5 me emxhasls ls alaeevg on she-ing the garment in the'pressing proceJure of the traditional method. An average rating was given to each grou. by at least a majorit of the judges. The quality of pressing in the collene 3r.uo was rated bet w average and unacce table by one of the 1UdJ€83 with the Cishoo class, the quality of dressing was average but unaccewtable to two of the judges. Same women in the tisho» groua had not 5 aged and presset their garments during c nstruction. -67- 2) Aooearance of the garments: TABLE 29 RATINGS BY JUL‘GES LN Bl."‘USl'-.S FOR PRESSED APPEARANCE WW College Class Bishoo Class fatlngs iNumber of lhhnber of eatingsl Ratingsi ##4— .__._ Above average mastery of skill Average mastery of skill Average mastery of skill, but unacceptable l ......... --- Below average mastery of skill and unacceptable ------ - ----- - I M- to Although aooearance of the aressed garments depended to a large extent Upon the fiber content, fabric weave, and finish, each grouo of blouses were rated "averawe" and "above average" in appearance by a majority of judges (see Table 2"i. They were pressed equalled well in all areas and oroduced the general effect of a oressed appearance. ThBLE 3) RATINGS BY JU'YSES 0‘1 BLQUSES FOR CORRZCT STITCHIN3 TENSILN College Class Bishoo Class Ratings lhbmber of lNumber of Ratings) Ratings) Above average mastery of skill 3 Average mastery of skill . DJ- i3 . 68 - The adult women in the Bis 0p class had more difficulty than the c liege women in judging the correct stitching tension to be used for their fabrics. The ratings showei that the college grouo was rated higher than the Bishoa groua in correct tension in stitching seams lsee Table 30i.. Evidence showed that the tight tension of the machine stitches tended to pucker the seamiines of the garments sewed by the fitshoo class, thereby lowering the quality of a pear- ance. TABLE 3i R’Tli-BS BY 1 'DSES m menses CE or BLLLSES Fee {summm N OF PUClTERS, r. .nn-G on GRAIN, NEAT FITTED FACl GS, SI.'£;(.:TH SLIDE F\STEt-lEi-ZS, , FLAT 3 SSE TS no Hogs, ST 2 3m HEM ALL Ashrams CN SLEEVES, Lemon or Dams mo T....CKS, FRAYlt-G 0;: PULUN; LUT,AND CLEAN seam FINISHES W College Class Bishoo Class Ratings ihhmber of IhMmber of Ratings) Ratings) Elimination of Pucker: Above average mastery of skill i i Average mastery of skill 2 2 Retro average mastery of skill and unacceotable i i -69.. TABLE 3i - Continued Ratings College Class lNumber r“t Ratings) Cutting on Grain m Bishoo Class (PMmber of Ratinqsi Mastery of skill i ----..--- Above average mastery of skill 2 4 Average mastery of skill l -- ------- Neat Fitted Facings Above average mastery of skill 2 ---~----— Average mastery of skill i 4 i3 Below average mastery of skill and unaccestable i ---~-—-~~ Smooth Slide Fasteners Above average mastery of skill 2 --------- Average mastery of still i 3 Average mastery of skill, but unacceptable l ---------- Below average mastery of skill and unacceptable ---- - - i - 7O - ) TABLE 3i - Continue; College Class Bishoo Class Ratings lhbmber of iNumber of Batingsl Ratingsi Fiat Gussets Mastery of skill l --t -- --- Above average mastery of skill l —---- ----- Average mastery of skill ~--- --~- 2 Average mastery of skill. but unaccestable ‘ 2 ---- ...... Belay averaqe mastery of skill and unacce>tabie ------~- 2 Flat tkms ’\ Above average mastery of skill l i Average mastery of skill i i Average mastery of skill, but unacceotable 2 l below average mastery of skill and unacce table ----- -—-- | Straight Hem Allowances on Sleeves hmstery of skill l -.. ...... Above average mastery of skill --.------ | Average mastery of skill 2 2 Average mastery of skill, but unacceptable i l ) TABLE 3| - Epetinued College Class Bisho: Class Rating: (Number of lkbmber of Ratingsl Ratingsk Location rf Darts Above average mastery of skill 2 2 Average mastery of skill - l l Average mastery of skill. but unaccewtable . l -——— ----- No comment -~-~---~ l Location of Tucks Ab've average mastery of - skill ‘ 2 2 4’3 Average mastery of skill --------- l Average mastery of skill, but unacceptable l ------- - Below average mastery of skill and unacceptable l ----—¢ -- No comment ----_..-- g Frayiag or Pulling Cut Above average mastery of skill 2 l Average mastery of skill 2 2 Average mastery of skill. but unacce>table --------- i Clean Seam Finishes Above average mastery of skill 3 --—----—- Average mastery of skill I 4 ---.“ i3 -72.. The two grouos received similar ratings for garments free from duckers caused by dart "dimples". overeasing, and so forth lsee Table 3ll. Gusset: rated by the judges and recorded in the table indicates a similar high rating for few puckers at the corners of gussets ia difficult construction detail and one hard to do without puckers using cotton-resln-finished fabrics). The blouses in each grou) were cut on the grain of the fabric. 0n the average, the judges rated this skill as above average. Furthermore, the judges mentioned the grain of the gussets and fecings in the bleuses of the c liege class were cut with a slightly higher degree of mastery of skill than the gussets and facings of the Gishoo group, although each groua received satisfactory scores. A majority of judges rated the a-pearance of the fitted facings higher in the college class than the Bisho) class lsee Table 3ll. Edge-stitching on theiflnished edge of lhe facings should have been closer in both groups. The college class could have trimmed the edges ciéser. “The technique of clean finishing the facing edge was following by the metbers of the Bishop class. The above average aspearance of the slide fastener in the college grouo of bl uses might well be attributed to the above average technical skill devel med in this Class lsee Table St). The judges rated as average the technical skill used in inserting the slide fastener by the women in the Bishov groua, causing the final general aspearance of the closing to be i wer in comparison to the college class. The judges were equally divided in each grou) uaon acre tabllity of the aopearance of the gussets and hems (see Table iii. In comparison of appearance, the gussets in the college grou: rated from'bverage" to "mastery of skill“; the gussets in the Sishop group rated from "below average" to "average" in avoearance. A majority of the hem: of the Llouses were average in aspearance in both the Bishow and the college classes. As shown in Table 3i, the ratings were nearly identical for both grouos in the striaghtness of hems of sleeves. Again, average scores were given to the majority f garments in each class. The judges found it difficult to score the i cation of the darts an' tucks. The majority of the judges felt that they could not determine the correct i cation unless each garment was modelled by its owner and maker. hkvertheless, ratings were given because ’«fi the darts and tucks could be inspected for centering within the garment. Each group received above average scores for both tucks and darts lsee Table 3li. Two judges did not fully understand the question and gave "unacceptable" ratings. The scores of the college groua were equally divided between average and above average a pearance with no fraying or wulling out. Cme judge felt that the seams needed more detailed finishes in the gis op grOUp, therefore the average rating was lowered lsee Table 3ll. The collefe class members had received an above average score on clean seam finishes; the seams‘ had been e'ge-stitchef and pinked by the traditional method. The Bis on class received average ratings from all four of the judges lsee Table 3ii. Two of the judges mentioned that no finishhmjh d been done in the seams of a majority of the BishOp blouses. According to the Uishop method of clathin: construction, seams nee’ not be finishel or trimmed if the cotton fabric is firm and does not ravei easily. — 75 - Analysis of the instructor Score Sheets :om :ared ELF-Tat ings—bi mm The individual Project Score Sheets were summar- izei for each clothing c nstructlon class; the rating - given in the majority of individual score sheets for each question was recorded on the Summary of individual fir-jects Sc re Sheet for each clothing construction class. General comments f r each class were recorded there also. Part i and ii of the individual Project Score Sheet are identical to the score sheets used by the panel of judges; therefvre, the analysis of these two sections compares the ratings of the instructor with the general ratings of the judges. Part iii of the individual 'r ject Score Sheet used by the instructor evaluated the two groups according to class interest, attendance, and so forth. ll Technical skill mastery: Use of carbon lines.-—The instructor rated both grOUps as having "average mastery of skill" in drawing straight, clear carbon lines. This rating coincided with the ratings of the majority of judges who scored these grouos. The adult women in the college class marked carbon lines accurately in all details; the women in the Wishoo class marked carbon lines in most details according to the method of clothing construction a 76 - followe'. The instructor noted that the women in the college grou> were very conscientious in marking the linelaccurately. aThe instructor agreed with a majority of the judges in rating mastery of skill in stitching over carbon lines. A ove average scores were generally given the college groua and average scores were given the Bishoo group. Both grouas did accurate stitching in :ost details according to the method of construction followed. Straight stitching iines.--Both classes usually did accurate stitching. The mastery of skill in the college grOUp, however, was generally above average, while the skill develo ed in the “is 0p grouo proved to be average. These ratings were similar to the ratings recorded by at least one-half of the iudges. Stitching lvcked at edges.-—The instructor inspected the blouses before the judges inspected them. An above average rating was given the college class for the securely tied threads at seam e yes; an average rating was given the Bishop class. The instructor felt that the lockstitching technique used in the Bishoo group was not successful, and therefore an unacceotable rating was given it. The average u 77 - ratings given the college group by three of the four judges could be due to extensive testing of the garments. Correct stitching lengths.«-The length of stitch for staystitching in the college groua was longer than the traditional method all ws; consequently. the instruct‘r scored this skill as inaccurate, below average, and unacceatabie according to most details of the method followed. The judges were divided in their ratings lsee page S7l. The staystitching and regular machine stitching techniques f r the blouses in the Bishob class were done with only average skill, but this class followed correct procedures for the Eishoo method. Over one-half of the judges rated staystitching and regular machine stitching similar to the instructor. in the college class, the length of stitches for regular stitching was an improve ent over the incorrect length of stitch for staystitching. An above'average rating was given this stitching which was executed accurgtely according to the traditional method. Correct seam and hem allowances.--The college grouo allowed accurate widths tar sewms, blouse hems, - 78 - sleeve hems, and facing hems according to the traditional method of cl thing construction. in- accurate allowances were found in staystitching; a majority of the staystitching lines were less than one-half of an inch from the e”gc of the fabric. Cm the average, the Blshoo class received l wer scores for their efforts; staystitching allowances were accurate, but seam width lflve-eighths of an inchi and the facing hem allowances itwo inchesl were accurate in only s=me details. The hems of the blouses lone-fourth of an inchi and the sleeve hems itwo inchesl were inaccurate according to the dishOp method. Over 53 per cent of the hem allowances in the blouses measured one-half of an inch or more; three hems were sewed b~ hand instead of by machine; and six sleeve he,s were less than one inch. The instructor rated the facing and blouse hcms of the college class com arable to the ratings made by a majority of judges lsee sage SQl. Seam all wances, staystitching all wances, and sleeve hem allowances were rate” "above average", "below average", and "ab ve average" resoectively in mastery of skill. Each rating by the instructor was slightly higher than the ratings given by the majority of the judges. In the SishOp class the all0wances for seam widths. hem: of blouse: and sleeves were rated 'below averaee" and "unaccewtabie' to the instructor. The allowance f r staystitching widths and facing here: were rate-:3 'averagé‘ and “acceptable" to the instructor. All of these scores except the facing hems for the Bisho- grou: were slightly lower than the ratings recorded b a majority of the judges. The facing hem allowances in the Bishep grouo were rated "average" by the instructor, while one-half of the judges rated them "below average". The instructor felt that the women in the college grouu were more cwnscientious about measuring correct allfiwances than the Bishow group. Higher accuracy ratings fwr width of seams and hems were given to the college grouo in both the ratings of the judges and the instructor, although the judges and the instructor were not always in agreement on the level of the accwmolishment. Fitted facings.—-The fitted facings of the Bishoo nroup tended to "roll over" to the right side - of the garment. This was caused partiallv by in- accurate Iork in the Bisho» method of construction. Therefore, the rating for the general effect of the tacings was average. In the very few garments which -80.. were constructel according to the Bisho) method, the facings lay flat and were caroletely conceale . Since the method was not foil we' accurately, the instructor found them unacceptable to her. The women in the collefie class followed the traditicnal method and sewei the fitted fecings ac- curately in all details. The technical skill develd e' was above average and accentabie to the instructor. Gussets.--Although two of the four jud es had rate” each grouo average in devei pment of skill for sewing gussets, the instructor rated the college group of bl uses a ve average and the Uishow grou) of blouses average. 8 th grou s of gussets had some suckers in the corners; this could have been eliminated by cli>ping into the corners closer to the stitching line. The college class reinforced the corners of the gussets with seamtaoe, while the Bishop class did not reinforce the corners. Top-stitching was not done in either group. The college class followef the traditional meth d accurately in all details except cliwping to the stitching line to eliminate puckering. The Sishoo class was inaccurate in f li wing most details of the method; they did not reinforce the gussets by tep- stitchinq or stitching in the corners. and they did not -8]- clip the corners sufficiently to eliminate duckering. The instructor felt that the gusset construction of the Bishoo class was unaccestable because the method was not toll'wed. Hem of biovse.--ll the blouses sewel by the college class the hens were flat and even. The general effect was above average in mastery of skill. The traditional method was followed accurately in all details. On the other hand, in the Bishop class the hems of the bi uses were uneven. Many hems did not foil w the Bishoa method of construction because they were sewed by hand and because the hem allowances were incorrect. The hens were acceptable, however, to the instructor because they were firm and flat. Slide fasteners.-The instructor rated the slide fasteners of the college group higher than the slide fasteners of the Bishoo group; the groups were given ratings of ”mastery of skill" and "above average mastery of skill" respectively. The lap width of the slide fasteners was accurate in both groups; the teeth were concealed adequately in the college group of blouses but inadequately in the Bishoo group of garments. The ratings of the -82- instructor were comparable to the ratings of the Judges. Beth grouvs inserted the slide fasteners according to the method followed. Sleeve hem.--The general effect of the sleeve hems in the college group were above average as compared to the average effect of the sleeve hens in the Bishop group. The women in the college class sewed even, neat stitches, while the women in the Bishow class sewed uneven stitches that were too long. The traditional method was foil wed accurately in the college class. The women in the Blsho> class did not follow the Bishoa method which requires the blind-stitch technique on the sewing machine. Many sleeve hems were sewed by hand. Darts and tucks.-—Both grouas were rated belaw average in the mastery of skill for sewlnj tucks because the ends of threads were lnsecureiv fastened and the stitches were not straight. This rating was lower than the average ratings of the Judges. The instructor agreed with the judges in grading the mastery of skill in sewing darts above average in the Lishop grou: and excellent in the college grou». Shaping and pressing during constructirn.--Both -83.. grouos had done acceptable, average work in pressing each unit before final censtructlon of the garment. The garments which were not pressed until they were finished lowered the group average slightly. Both methods were followed accurately in most details. 2) Appearance of the garments: Pressing.--Both groups of bi uses were pressed, but the general effect was average. Since some detailed areas had not been dressed earlier in construction, the final awpearance of these areas were not excellent. Techniques of pressing in both methods of cl thing con— struction were followed. Correct stitching tension.-~After teaching each class and helping each member, the instructor felt that both groups had developed an acceatable, average skill in judging correct stitching tension according to the method of cl thing construction followed. The Judges felt that the college class had developed this skill better than the Bishop class. Elimination of.puckers.--The instructor gave the college group an average rating for elimination of suckers and the Bishop class an unacceptable, below ‘3‘ -84- average rating for ellrinatlon -f puckers caused from dart "dimples", overease, and so forth. Since the construction of darts and gussets were generally better in the college group than in the Cishoa “r009, as might be expected more duckers were eliminated in the college group. Cut on grain of fabric.¢-The women in the college class showed complete mastery of skill in cutting fabric on the grain. The bodice, gussets. and facings were cut correctly. The bodices and facings of the blouses in the Bishop grOUp, however. were not cut as accurately as the other gr up. Both classes follwwed their respective methods of pinning and cutting accurately. Perfection of cutting was more difficult to attain in the Bisho) method by the beginner sewer: the pattern was pinned to the fabric at the corners, and the instructor noted the difficulty expressed by the beginner sewers who had not develcped skill in cutting. for these women, the patterns tended to slip on the fabric, thereby lowering the ease of cutting on the grain of the fabric. Neat fitted facings.--Faclngs cut on the grain of the fabric fitted into the garment smoothly: the fitted facings in the college groua of blouses had been '\ -85- cut on grain while the facings in the Bisho) group of blouses seemed not to have been cut exactly on the grain. The free edges of the facings were finished equally well in both groups. The instructor agreed with the Judges in rating the a pearance of the fitted facings as above average in the college group and average in the Bishop grOUDn Smooth slide fasteners.-The college class re- ceived an above average rating in appearance of the slide fasteners; the Bishoo class received an average rating. in the Bishop group the la>s covering the teeth of the slide fasteners tended to twist, therefore lowering the rating of the aooeara cc of the side closings. Both methods of construction were followed accurately in all details. These ratings coincided with the ratings recorded by the majoritv of the Judges. Flat gussets.-Slnce both groups cut the gussets accurately, there was no twisting or undesirable bulky pulling in the gusset pieces. Both sets of gussets lay flat: only the duckers in the corners gave some diffi- culty, thereby lowering the a\pearance from excellent to an above average rating with both classes. flat hems.--The women in the college class accurately sewed the hems of the bl uses according to the traditional method. The hems were flat and neat. receiving an excellent rating. A majority of the hems sewed by the women in the Wishop class were bulky and uneven; many hems were not sewed by the prescribed method. The women had not pressed the hems during the hemming procedure, therefore, the average appearance was lower in comparison to the atwearance of the hems in the college group. i Straight hem allowances on sleeves.-3Average in appearance"wasArfiging given sleeve hem allowances in the college groun and ,"heiow average appearancd'was given the sleeve hem all wances in the dishop grou: of blouses. The blouses in the Bishop class were rated l wer because not all details were accurately f'li wed in the method. and the hems of the sleeves were uneven. Location of darts and tucks.-The instructor could accurately rate the avuearance of the dart and tuck l cations. The college groUp of bl uses rated excellent; the Bishon group rated average. The higher rating was given because the women in the college class had pattern and garment fittings before final construction. At these fittings, the locations of the darts and tucks were changed so as to fit the wearer. The women in the Ix . 87 - BishOp class did not have fittings; therefore, the l cations of darts and tucks were not altered to the wearer. No fraying or pulling out.-The garments in the college class anpeared to be firm in construction detail. There was no fraying or pulling out in the corners of the gussets and so forth. The college class received a rating of excellent. The women did not follow the Bishoa method of construction in reinforcing the gussets and finishing the seam allowances. Some of the corners of the gussets had begun to null out and the seam allowances were fraying. The Blshow class received a rating of below average in appearance. Clean seam finishes.--The instructor and the Judges rated the college group of garments higher than the Blshoo groua of garments for appearance of clean seam finishes. The seams were finished in the blouses of the college class. thereby getting a rating of excellent. The women following the BishOp method of construction did not finish the seam all'wances. The seam allowances had begun to fray. This gnoup received an unaccevtable and average rating by the instructor. I“ ‘\ -88.. 3t Personal evaluations The instructor rated both groups above average in personal interest in the class, obedience to the instructor's directions, and comprehension of the philosOphy of the method of clothing construction fol- lewed. The class attendance and feeling of group membership were excellent in the college group as compared to above average in the BishOp group. The general ratings of the BlShOo class were i wer because attendance waned near the end of the course of instruction, and the women did not seem to socialize or knit into an informal group. The comprehension of the sewing techniques and the prompt com,>le tlon of assignments were above average in the college class and average in the BishOp class. The adult women in the Bishop class were not "students" as were the members of the other group. They comprehended the instructions slower than the members of the college class. The BishOp women also did not feel that it was essential to complete assignments promptly. Most of of these women were homemakers and therefore had duties and responsibilities at home to share with the clothing construction work. The women of the oishop class never worked ahead ~ 89 a of the instructor. The college women sometimes worked ahead. The Sishop women were more independent in sewing their garments. They rarely consultef friends; they seldom asked the instructor for advice or clarification of technical details. The college women were average in independence. The members of this close-knit grOUp felt free to ask questions among the group as well as to the instructor directly. Ct MPTEP. lV EVALUNT iQNS AN) SUig’tz'ARY Evaluations At the beginning of the study the following basic assumptions were made about the Bishop and the college clothing construction classes: It Both classes would consistently follow the method of clothing construction used in their respective classes. The college membenb working for an acceptable grade in the three-credit course, would therefore follow the technical skills according to the method of clothing construction. The Blshoo class members. learning the newest, speed techniques, would follow the speed methods of clothing construction consistently because women adopting the Bishop method have often been recognized for their intense and constant interest, enthusiasm, and acceptance of Mrs. Bishop' learnings. 2i .Both clothing construction grouos would accept the method taught in their respective classes even if that method were different from the methods of construction learned previously. 3i The instructor would assume different roles .. 97) .- \ if: - 9i - while teaching each class. The methods of approach, attitudes toward the clothing construction method taught, and the methods of instruction would be dif- ferent in the two classes. The writer expected that each grOUp of members would have different main purposes for enrolling in the clothing construction classes. Specifically, the adult women in the Bishop class would want to iai get out for the evening for socialization purposes and lbl learn the basic sewing skills for simple and prac-. tical uses in homemaking; the women in the college class would want to iai receive college credit toward a bachelor degree, allowing them to enter the pro- fesslonal field of home economics and lbl learn the traditional, fundamental principles of clothing con- struction and the knowledge of an:llcatlon of these principles. in this study it was also expected that the college students would feel that an academic atmosphere is conducive to learning, while the Bishop women would feel that they could learn more effectively in an in- formal atmosphere. ’ Other expectations were that the fundamental principles basic to the speed and the tradltlonal methods of clothing construction would affect the standard “‘2'; \y’ - 92 - of quality of construction of the garments; the degree of technical skills developed and the ap- pearance of the finished garments probably would be higher in the class using the traditional, custom method of clothing construction than the class fol- lowing the speed method of construction; and, lastly, Bishop women would develop a groUpamembershlp feel-' ing, while the college students would not organize so noticeably into an informal group. After completion of the study, these assumptions and expectations were reviewed, evaluated, and sum- marized as follows: it it was assumed that both classes would follow their respective methods of clothing con- struction consistently. When Judges and the instructor score sheets analyzing the finished garments of each class were evaluated, they showed that the members of the college class consistantly followed the traditional method of clothing construction. However, the BishOp members did not use the speed method of construction consistently; they often used other methods learned previously lfor example, sewing sleeve hems by hand instead of by machine, omitting understltching in the fitted facings, and tielng threads instead of lock- stitchingl. a 93 - The Bishop class did not develoo a close-knit group feeling lsee page BBi. in view of this fact, one might venture to say that, in a sense, Mrs. Bishop did not have a "family" of followers in this group of Flint adult women. There did not seem to exist a group attitude pressuring them to learn and follow Mrs. Bishop' teachings as might have been expected from women who have heard and read so much about Mrs. Bishop. The writer as instructor might not have sufficiently inspired the group with the BishOp image to enlist their complete acceptance of her methods. With these points in mind, it can be understood why the women in the BishOp class returned to methods of construction used previously after orientation to the new. unfamiliar techniques. 2) Over three-fourths of the members in both groups felt they would accept the methods of clothing construction taught in their respective classes if they were different from the methods of construction learned previously lsee page 4i). This response correlates with the basic assumption, Both qrouos expressed confidence that the methods taught in their respective classes were practical and apolicable for use. 3) The instructor felt she assumed different -94- roles while teaching each class. In the Bishop class her method of aoproach was personal, easy-going, and sociable; in the college class her method of approach was slightly more impersonal and technical. instruction to the BishOp class emphasized management of time, having fun while sewing, and learning the unique Bishop basic learnings; the college class received instruction which was more academic and emphasized high standard of skill and objective, analytical reasoning. in both classes the instructor felt that cheerfulness, patience, and enjoyment of teaching and helping others were important personal qualities necessary for an optimum learning situation. The main reasons for taking the course among the Bishop women were not primarily for socialization and for learning the basic sewing skills as had been exoected. From the survey instrument it was found that the four main ourposes were iai to learn the newest techniques, lbl to complete requirements for an advanced course in Bishop sewing, lci to save money, and id) to learn how to alter vatterns to fit themselves, They were equally divided in stating their interest of learn- ing techniques of common sewing skills or learning the fundamental principles of Bishop sewing and the ap- plication of these principles. A majority of the members - 95 — welcomed the opportunity of socialization with the other women in the clothing construction class, but not one of them stated this reason as'one of the four main purposes for taking the course. A majority of the college members listed "college credit" as one of the four main reasons for enrollment in class. This confirmation of part of the assumption was counterbalanced by the findings that the students expressed more interest in learning the common technical skills of clothing construction than the fundamental principles of this traditional method and its applications. The causes of the contradition to the stated assumption might be traced to the selection of the population for the study. The size of the sample pop- ulation was too small for accurate testing. it has been expected that the college students were conditioned to formal classroom instruction and they would feel that this instruction given in an aca- demic atmosphere would be more conducive to effective learning than an informal atmosphere where free discus- sion and personalized instruction would be conducted. it was assumed that the Bishop women would prefer the informal tyoe of teaching over the formal, academic instruction. The question in the instrument which was selected to secure this information was worded as follows: "Do you feel you can learn effectively in an informal atmosphere? — C6 - Why?" This question was worded with no comparison of the two methods of instruction. The women were perhaps misled for the true information sought. in consid- eration of this fact, an accurate evaluation of this expectation can not be ascertained. However, in- structors could well give the responses to the question some orlority in their classes since iQO oer cent of the participants in each class resoonded affirm- ativeiy. The different fundamental principles under- lying the soeed and the traditional methods of clothing Construction affected the standards of finpi quality in clothing construction and were so rated by the Judges and the instructor. These principles are given on pages i2 through i4 in the introduction. The analyses of data of the rating instruments used by the panel of judges and the instructor indicate that the deveiooment of sewing skill, the fit of the garments, and the techniques of construction in the garments sewed by the traditional, custom method had a higher standard of quality than the garments constructed by the Bishop soeed method. This difference in quality found by testing ant analysis verifies the expectation. The degree of technical skill developed and the aopearance of the finished garments were higher in the class following the traditional method of construction than the class following the Speed method. This statement is in accordance with the analyses of data recorded from rating instruments. Throughout the entire Judging of the finished garments of each class. the judges and the instructor reoeat- edly scored the college class higher than the Bishop class in development cf technical skill and as earance of the garment. t According to indications found in the analysis of data in the rating instrument used by the instructor. ths Bishoo women did not deveioo a group—membershio feel- ing. and the college students did organize into an informal grouo. This reversal of the exoected group action might be explained by a thorough examination of the backgrounds of the group members. Apparently, attitudes, social needs. and common experiences of the BishOp members were lacking which would aooear to be essential for grouo cohesion. Evaluation 2: the instruments ii Evaluation of the survey: Description and background of the aopulation.--The a 98 a differences in devel wment of technical skill and personal satisfactions derived from the end product can ‘e oirtially explained by the varied background of the oopulation. On the average, the Bishoo women were 'ot emalrved and were older in age (all having been married) than the c liege women. They had a lower level of formal education, more class experience in clethind c nstruction, a longer aeriod in years of sewing experience, fewer clrthing-related lo 5, more cxocrience in oneratlng sewing machines, less e per— lence in sewing with a variety of cotton fabrics, and a wider range of exocrience in construction of garments and with technical details. At the same time, they felt limited in that some garments and construction details were too difficult to do, but others more fun to do than the college grouo. Attitudes Cf the particioants.-Throughout the analysis of instruments there was amazing similarity in attitude resoonses of the two gr uvs. G alswere varied and s~me thought patterns were slightly differ- ent, iut, on the whole, both grouos of warticl~ants felt the same. The responses were similar in main pursoses for taking the course and the advantages and disadvantages in - 99 - of the class. Attitudes on levels of quality of the finished earment, course 0 lectlves, method acceptance, practicality of methods, effective teaching methods, educational television and films. and financial values of the course were sim lar also. Finally, both classes desired sets of samole con- struction details, socialization with‘ other grous members, success in clothing c nstruction, and advanced clothing construction classes. Although accomplishment and skill was desired b~ all, an analysis of the data showed diversity of standards in quality and w rkmanshin. flesoosscs varied in future use of method and desired quality level in the construction of a garment. This study nroved to be most interesting to the writer in reswect to the philosophy, the theorticai point of view, and the attitudes of the two groups. Since these grou s responded similarly instead of being stri‘ingly different as expected, gerhaps the instructor had more leveling influence than she realized. Also, the small size of the sample micht account for this similarity. 2) Evaluation of the none! of judges score sheets: The judges were instructed to be as objective as - lOO - gossible in scoring the testing instrument. They inserted helwful comments to clarify and Justify their ratings. Although some technical skills and qualities of a)pearance were varied in score ratings, there a peared to be considerable similarity ant agreement in most cases among the judges. On the whole, the Judges graded the technical skill mastery and the awpearance of the finished garments of the college class (traditional method followed) higher than the Bishoo class lspeed method followed). Only in certain, specific areas did the Blshoa women receive higher ratings lcorrect length of stitch for staystitching and width of staystitching). In the survey instrument the Bishoo grouo expressed a desire and exaectation for a high degree of quality in their finished garments. in this study. material evidences tend to substantiate the fact that the BishOp class did not attain this high quality. The blouses were given ratings which indicate the method of in- struction was not foil wed, many details were omitted. mastery of skill was not highly develo ed, and a quality ap>earance was lacking. it must be clarified that ii women in the tishoo class particisated in the survey; 8 of them -IOI- sewed bl uses which were judged by the instructor and the judnes. Therefore, in c nsideration of this fact, it is imaortant to remember that high quality of construction was desired by Bishoa women in the survey; but Only 73 per cent of these women actually completed bl uses which were judged. 3i instructor evaluation: On the whole, the rating scores on the mastery of technical skill and aspearance of the finished garments by the instructor were similar to the scores given by the judges. Some variances in ratings were 91”“.er correct stitching length, seam and hem allowances, and the fastening of threads. An evaluation, rating nersonai characteristics and qualities of each member sf the class,completed the rating. These ratings were instrumental in heioing validate assum~tions made in the section on Evaluations of the Assumutions lfor example, the attitudes toward grouo uembershlo was rated and awaited to assumation number seveni. Summary in final summary, the writer feedsthe purpose and objectives of this research study were fulfilled. The purpose of this research problem was to compare, ..IOQ- rate, and evaluate technical skills develoD¢d and mastered and psychological satisfactions derived from sewing in a college and a Bishop class in beginning clothing construction; the objectives concerned gaining the experience of research study, comoaring and evaluating results of testing. A quesfionnaire was devised to secure infor- maHon regarding oersonai experience of sewing skill, clothing construction standards, personal goals and values, and degree of success expected in the course. A panel of judges and the instructor in- spected and scored the construction of the blouses giving substantial material evidence on a comparison of the technical skills devei0ped and the appearance of the finished garments in the two classes. Further- more, the instructor rated personal quallties and characteristics of each group as objectively as possible upon the termination of the classes. The level of skill and quality of avpearanee of the garments, together with the basic princloies of the specific method of clothing construction followed, seemed to be directly related to the quality of the finished blouses of both classes. The ratings by the judges and the instructor revealed that the quality of the blouses constructed by the college - l03 - class was suoerlor in most details to the quality exhibited by the Bishoo class. The analysis of the testing instrument indicated that technical skill was more highly deveiooed in the college class than in the Bishoo class; also, the appearance ratings of the finished garments were higher in the college class in the construction of cotton blouses. The writer feels, however, that the results of the rating instruments adequately suoports the recommended practice of certain construction tech- niques used in each method of clothing construction if skillfully and accurately executed. Bishop techniques and procedures, such as understitching t‘e facings, guiding the staystitching line by means of a gauge on the sewing machine, and lockstitching the waistline tucks, have proved to be successful and preferred over procedures used In the traditional method of construction for similar situations. The following traditional techniques and procedures were rated higher than the BishOp method of clothing construction: the method of cutting fabric; the procedure of checking location of darts and tucks during fittings; the techniques of fastening thread ends, reinforcing gusset corners, inserting slide fasteners, and hand stitching hems: and the method of finishing seams. - iO4 o The psychological satisfactions of the participants in this study are eXpressed in part by their attitude responses in the survey. Responses seemed to reflect their standards, goals, and interest in clothing construction. A summary of the analysis of these responses indicate that a majority of the particlaants in both groups eXpressed a desire to learn in an informal atmosphere, to socialize in class with the other members, to obtain a set of sample construction details, to accept the method of clothing construction taught and use these techniques for practical use at home, to succeed in the class, and to take an advanced course in construction. it might be advisable for instructors tocomsider’these attitudes as they could become very important for Optimum learning and student-teacher relationships. Furthermore, the population of this study varied - in age, educational background, values, goals, purooses in taking the class, previous clothing construction esperlence, and personal standards of construction quality lsee pages 97 and 98 for comparison of the two grouusi. The writer feels it important to rention that the analysis of the survey instrument seemed to indicate that these characteristics and qualities of the selected p puiation have helped eXplain aflitude - iOS - responses; however, the size of the samvie of this population is too small to suaport an accurate generalization for other groups. All the objectives were fulfilled in this study through the development, analysis, and evaluatioh «f this research problem. The writer feels that this problem has been invaluable in gaining exaerlence in using research techniques, deveiowing objective reasoning, and writing and evaluating a constructive re "0". LiST OF REFERENCES Book! Arny, Clara Brown. Evaluation in hbme Economics. hhw York: Appleton-CenTUry-Crofts, inc., l953. Bane, Aliyne. Creative Sewin in ngfessionai Touches for the FEme Dressmaker. New York: icCraw-Hlli 50“! C09, IflCes 0 Bishop, Edna Bryte and Arch, Marjorie Stotler. The lshog hethod 2£.Clothin Construction. Chicago: 1. E. Lipplncott 50:} 1959. Erwin, thel D. Clothing for Moderns. New York: h-Itacm"|an 50., . latzke Alpha and Baxter iaura. Toda 's Clothing. New ’York: j. 8. tipoincott Co., i§§5. Mansfield, Evelyn A. Clothin Construction. dostont Houghton Miffiin 50., t953. Williamson, Maude and Lyle, Mary S. Home akin Education for Adults. New York: Applelon~Century-Cr01 s, “Co, a Wingo, Caroline E. The Clothes You Buy and Make. New York: McCraw- Hill Book Co., inc., l955. leaflets and Suiietins Advance Pattern Company. Detail “ell hts of the Bishog hkthod of Clothin Construction. New York: Advance-Vbttern 50.1 Press, n.d. . it's Easy as "A", "B“ "C" to learn to Sew. gulle tin No. 3TNew Yor 2 Advance era 55-: P'C’., and. e . Let the Experts Tell You. Bulletin No. 2. w or ”Advance Pattern Press, n.d. - iOé - -IO7- List of References - lContinuedl filshop, Edna Bryte. Basic Sewln Steos. New York: Advance Pattern Co. ress, n.d. . Details for the Oualitx Look. hkw York: Advance Pattern Co. Press, n.d. __3 Pattern Alterations for the Lbjority, New TYork: A vance Pattern Co. Press, n.d. w Mott Foundation Pr gram. The Bisho Method of Clothin Construction. Flint, Michigan: Flint‘Board ot_Education Press, n.d. Newspaper. Flint journal. June 5, l959, p. l7. Other Sources Flint Junior College. Bishop instructors Staff Meeting. OCTQCDCCo' .0590 Flint Oak Grove Campus. Personal interview with Gertrude Harper, Bis op COordinator tor the Mott Foundation. Cmt 23, l959. Letter from Mary E. Geohart, Associate Professor in the Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Art at Michigan State University, East Lansing, Michigan. January l5, i960. APPENDIX APPEhnIX I Colleges, universities, and institutions at which Evelyn A. Mansfieid's book Clothlgg:C9nstrurti n has been adapted as a text by l958: Alabama College Albion College, Mich. Albright College, Pa. Alcorn A. and M. College, Miss. Allen University. S.C. Arkansas ’olytechnlc College Ashland College, Ohio Bakersfield College, Calif. Grigham Young University, Utah Carnegie Institute of Tech- nology. Pa. , - Chic School of Fashion Design, N.Y. Christian C liege, U0. College of Puget Saund, hash. College of Southern Utah Columbia University, N.Y. Cornell C liege, Iowa 'Del War College, Tex. DePauw University, Ind. Dixie College, Utah Frexei Institute of Tech- flOiOQy, Pa. Emmanuel Missionary College, ful Ch 0 Fl rida State University Friends ‘ible College, Kane. Gallaudet College, Washington, D.C. Howard College, Ala. Illinois Wesleyan University Juanita College, Pa. Kansas State College Kimbles Scho l of Sewing, Mich. Longwood College, Va. MacMurray College, ill. hkrcy College, Mich. hercvhurst College, Pa. Michigan State University Millikin University, Ill. lontana School of Mines Nontcialr State College, bk]. horehead State College, Ky. \ < Murray State College, Ky. New York State Agricultural and Technical Institute, Coblesklli, N.Y. North Central C liege, Iii. North Texas State College Northern Michigan University Ontario Agricultural College, Can. Uregon State Callege Palm Heach Juni r College, Fla. Pembroke State College, N.C. Pennsylvania State University Purdue University, ind. Radford College, Va. Richmond Professional Institute, vs. Russell Sage College,.N.Y. ' Sacramento State C liege, Calif. Sacramento Junior Callege, Calif. St. Josevh Celleee, Md. St. Mary-of-the-v-ods College, Ind. St. Olaf College, Linn. Salem Collewe, N.C. San Diego Junior College, Calif. San Diego State College, Calif. San Francisco State Chilege, Calif. San Jose Junior College, Calif. San Jase State College, Calif. Seattle Pacific College, Wash. Seattle University, hash. Seton Hill College, Pa. S.T.C., ~uffal~, N.Y. , S.T.C., Farmington, Maine S.T.C., Framingham, Mass. S.T.C., Mansfield, Pa. Syracuse University. N.Y. University of Akron, Ohio University of Alberta at Clagarv, Can. University of Alberta at Edmonton, Can. University of ritlsh Columbia, Can. University of California, Berkeley University of California at Los Angeles Aspendlx l - IQpntlguedl University University of California, Pavia of Manitoba, Can. University of Massachusetts University of filnnesota: Duluth Branch Institute of Agriculture University of Missouri UniverSity of Nebraska University of Oklahoma University of Cmaha, lkb. University of Rhode island University of Toledo, Ohio University of T ronto, Can. University of Utah University of Wisconsin Villa Julie Junior College, Md. Virginia State College Lest Virginia State College western Kentucky State College western Washington College of Education :hltworth College, Wash. Willamette University, Oreg. Lisconsin State College: Stevens Point woman's College of the University of North Carolina Vright Junior College, Ill. APPENDIX II STATISTICS OF BISHOP ENROLLL‘LNT IN FLINT lishoo classes In Flint, Uic'igan, have totalled an enrollment of 9,70) people since the beginning In I954. Seasonal Enrollment for l958-l959 fall, I958 - 93 Bishow adult classes i,44l women I Bishop youth class - 25 girls Winter, |958 - 99 Bishop adult classes . i,37l women 2 Bishon youth classes - SI girls Spring, I958 - 6i Blshow adult classes d 854 women I Bishop youth class - 32 girls Summer, l958 - ‘22 Bishop yduth classes - 673 girls Annual total - 28 classes with enrollment of 4,447 I95: Attendance at Lectures Fall, I959 - 9 meetings with 30 peOpIe attending Winter, I959 - 9 meetings with 3i peOple attending Spring, l959 - 5 meetings with 30 onpIe attending Summer, I959 — 'Q.meetings with I03 peonle attending Annual total - 30 meetings with l94 people attending l959 Division of Classes The Bishoo Department of the hbtt Foundation Program now is Instructing classes in 25 Flint schools. There are 3i instructors on the oayroll. The classes are currently divided thus: 1 Beginners Class - 3 sections BIshoo I Class . 97 sections Bishop II Class - 63 sections glshOp III Class - 39 sections Eshop iV Class 0 20 sections Bishoo V Class - I5 sections Extravagant... Zfiééilgit Total of 250 sections .v-v- .\_ 3'": ya . u '4 i L— "p... “"0111". 11);? .01: Ft‘.1<"=€'fl‘b APPENDIX III i_,-"""l"zfll' l '21 IAv-mos-‘L .‘l‘l'l'ut- Y . )-:3_‘ 1"-;::? lfl'll 1 __' I "I,.“ W“, '..' _.. ‘1 I , :Llnt Junior toxin 5 LiJthfl. ]b1 1b} “lint Juviorl 0119's fée1or 313153 of a“ mu “mo—OOH-I”I‘ v “V “-4—.e'ha a" n. o~ 1w Ln , Ha a: *s . ?O~2}J.n 0‘. "‘)~S?~0-~“3 Jttj-I-J ' war—3" ...‘2‘ .~~*.; .3 ... )~--‘ou3 (1‘) ()r f)"‘? r.~'.p la : 3“"‘Cd. 3 l9‘rricmi - “Hrfivr t -..-......" new-an- av-v—u-q- “we. Vuliuhine €“fi30399 (snootfvt I ‘ .| ; 1.2.1 «~13 ~ a. ho - ...-...“ ‘ ”war-IQ “ ( . ”MP-w-uurwa-ur.unm - ; ”art~t3 are or teoouenrv ewn5oyoo anor~f55 : ...-nup-c—noo— . q ‘ ‘ ' ”nor- rfiwm’a*~M-va~tr‘emn ...n-~H«-*—'~MUW ' 6 (~ij (111'?) azt c-k“ttd r1M7WTe 11: Ytsrs of Sohool 11".111 on"?! 1*vvr-‘o-“rrprac .‘ . . ) _I (a) “Totb5na in “7‘“?1-lfi ...- ... -.. _- “1 rd Lana -asl' ‘t~~rt5n ' O 1PM ‘\I - : o~m~flh~psmnla n-waw. T” F‘LTP‘TT‘YI". (“1'1“‘1'r3""f1"",“' Tings" v.17: HAT)? . ft .‘.. .I. .1. ' . '.' . . , c1¢~ ‘ - among. 0; clotmlnv course \'\l‘s. f ‘ run—...."- Tiph “choc 1 ( 237"”ETZE77EE"in Senior.” {TE””7EL{fT;TRTnFY”“*3‘?on1ona of "ToV7w5rTEfifi?FWEfi" 'M- --.¢- _. - _ 7...,....-..\..-....-. ......H - - -.- - - _-_,____-- ...-.. -..... ..."-.. ....--....._....... \el uri~~1rati1ns= (1‘ 3 ~” 9" db (3". 0V1 :1" Ip‘r0.1'.-.2-Jct (CM-3131f; 3 ---- {P} ’5rL "outs clmsth T? profiact (unock, ; ...m. {33 uture Powsn18Lex S Club Sluth'UT p‘ofio"t (check) ; (:) “.Tlul'l‘ (‘13:? ,3 ("'I'VICL :7} : _."”"— (g, 95113: ~ 51'. 5112' , Con51171773351933 3 I an n — .- - .H.- ' .’ {6) Other 05.0th1ng progeCJS {5?ficl'f)mmw.um_me_mum.-M*~-MMM_..M“NMMCCC..H“.*M-Q_.__-u - -4—- _ . . ...... wan-“w ...“... —-- .... -‘ -—- w— — ”0*“--aslml .. g5} At home: .om vnon ha=c via 1=urned 5 i'out Ev loud h Truz 30295 ‘Vcnfa .. _ “fly-"H~T~—“I ~— .. ‘ a (1) Job remutod v h-‘fi—w~«s .~ C111,) 2 "I , '.‘, .‘ ... ..,.'.. L3 Cnoann; c Ubo?:0 »~qoo--~a‘v~-fl~rw—aa‘~ V-O- .- ' or: ': 321:1: 5::N- r«‘- 'b 7..— ...-a... “sad-.... lxfif) I) . _ Jo; . . Vl'kaf‘Lo , ’r H;:l1rl 11.}.4". Vania ('1 6”,“. -a~—I~-or‘ ‘— ( .... - - Ma- ws~.w-~.~.~~-——.~x~-‘u. J," “ms-...... nu: mi'f‘. --"_. .... — _____ r-g- ' ___ _ . \. c 1 _ y. ’3 I ’ . , - . .. ,‘ . an ’.‘.' a u. g - (a) Job 1101.511: so 1.: 1.0-.- .1 L111 1. 1'1“... )--~. aim .at-‘GL i v: . ‘ J Drumswmdfi-ar Aim-r- - ash-‘0‘ —.. wt .— “ C.- ‘ fl, . . I.‘ ...? ,. i189“ ; L131 ”Ht '9 Lu. L) 1.5.9 min-".- .- UDM‘V a“ ~n,~os.~. «a... -.. ..."..- v-v .I.\.",fl.~—*-r-.~p.ma~?) {1876‘ V01? 0;” ‘ I”! 112- -.C? Dr 7“]-1’; "LO (PHI 3.11.3 «"111... Oi 511.3 91-2.59"? \ft. '1'? C.' A ‘O'V: t, ‘i’l ' _ ‘ I . ‘l I.“ ‘1}. '1 ‘ - ~ ‘ .l ' .0 av.‘ 01"- .. 6.7.1.151. 5 Kenmore 3 Wench]- ; no 51.; f a r -1” 1- ; in can ; O‘rfv‘rs {$19531 ‘ v I ‘uh'afi'h—o ”W w—a h- ‘9- ArauI-l ‘- ”vow—n ~ com-amu- rs» nv-m‘u . : 2'75,— '.:-;,( H": ..." ‘ -- "t . IT“'0~" -. . r v 5... .hv- r a “.1 I'. f I‘ -' .... ‘I' " ‘ ' h ‘1'); :1 t‘l‘ tq (1.1:f‘i’:i1.x.I"-'1"1i‘:55 new.) _.' ‘11 05) 341.213 :’ {I'LI' ,- .’ ' 1" “A, H" 3 . 1(1 ‘1 by; L‘, 3 111.11.“; :: 3 electrj .c nus-OFF" Y” .-1. 2.3. 9,1 . 4 ,. . - :1 :43. a.) T . , - '. 2.. . . . :1 a cocoon .aoraos hare you worked w'.v 14 o («h'ov ru1° zuctjon? anLSue ; corduroy ammo... .a “cat-Iv r: ”'1‘... , s 2.. .... ,. - .2. n ‘ .3 "a, .. ,1. s ‘- ‘ smog} chlnaz tuo'oolosh Ton ; otxnoimm: : oenim ; 4w.; ii?’ ; Ii 1.15.1511 3 011:1“11037” velveteen 5 voile Qwfi‘a-Q- -..".u ' ...-as so. 0 O 1.4 ..J 3. - :5 N4 "1 l "t n- J .. III I ‘J .l H , ~ .. ..... - . -.{hfiff' ~ .. . , plngn.t ; h Lug ; Jfiliofld3ol : lav : Meroul‘oste , -.=~s~a_:bl~‘ H ‘c-o-a‘mA'“ a. u u a. M... ; plrr;n1e ; Wit-1:53 ; '01le age . e'IWev : “cert“.rcloth ; - vlw kfiflfim‘ W c «on... W”! ‘ 1” . "'X ; others Uflzec 2&3; _ --- * m_, __ ‘ -M”- ___.- What garments or a ticl.s ha~v you cons strunied ah hOEE, school, work, 2 I guano on anizatior" P ease ansner by the onwo<1nv+v rrmio“ w inh vou he“e m:;du,) Sleeveless :us Plouso or fires Pious e or dress fathered "Dirt 1"..1" l1: ’V’ ‘.4’ \J‘V \J‘ 3-1 (‘2 ‘ I.“ ."\.'\r’\/~w P-f“ "\H"‘\I"\I“\f“-¥m ’— v R} w Swts h) ‘rcos :1) 'wn313“2533§‘ fi) Half Slip 113?: ‘<) D 2‘“ (F135 4:- 1.11.1“ sl'fl “if.“ m-aom- ...-W...» up-bs-v- fis-b‘l H JVVVVV'VVKJV.) ‘4 Y", .0 r- ‘l". Va‘j 513:2“! .3 A ,L "VHF-ulna. + a 1 s Vittn so w-“ s eavo -: .- s ,~ ’“*"“"' ".--..- ‘ ’ ’ , Canon‘s 5.1513,: :3 .....- sou—cu hanM-Lels-M mww.~ ..f... Lil IJI‘L .ri‘r. '33 ‘u 0" I ‘ '-";."'m-'. . A J ‘ h‘ ‘ '3" 'II " -s~"~w»~~« 11 ~>M3"LS cu“ 'utxru.aa “mo-7*”. I vm-uufi- n .... ......w... 0 - actkt‘ u _. a. .LISGtii‘d 515-12%) p (“0;‘t -.. fl- 1M1..- - J 1 fl ”‘ ?€u or 0:53 Ler stars q Rust A1; Ir‘c-n "\Ar’fi.’\.’\r"\r“~. A/\) 0-0. C1 1 ‘1 U ()E4 3.. J '7" -- ....19- ~ I o 55,. .‘w tank's Lrourorws .. .. .. ‘ _f *- -vw-\-~-vr. v m L; l"‘.’n:L‘ EJL‘IJMI‘UIH' A q . y ‘w--.‘- T? ;-"‘:\'.r "1(‘i‘I'-'(. { 1. quendix III POI :71 5.17. Otherfi w#,..u Lulu-Do v ('0 ‘ L’ ; 'fi': 1:. I V.r .? \- ‘ ‘ p D! "go‘.'a Ac «m- :0- :---—-nmvoavflw W (Conflnuzd) Povrrhold 't9fl 3: x _ - — , \9; Pafihrocm ork173719n towels (to) “1-ilo" " 9r9rfi ,. ”was... - -- . :- 1 .1 - . r \ub) Wrnncries or ch19; ninsw (Pi) 191.1c192h 9 dm1.2w in. ( 3 m (r- \ ‘ u . “ Imfi~ ‘09, u}: cet,s (g:-, Sliornvara u'ur nrnitnre -nurm-a. ' " . m1.- {9d} P1710?""¢ a (“h‘ “59993 (999C1fv) m - *— ...-Av...”- “-~.~ *fi. . I... -.‘O- ‘ A‘ M A ”hat coast unL5.59 notailvn have you 9999 r9 9 pw"99979 {whack} I - ‘ a It 0 fl 1 r- .- .‘3‘ ‘r. ' v {a} Seycd-Qn Puttwns 1k} 9' Ln HJ(7@t3 (b) llttm s u‘th a sbnn” . ’1) 79+»1n urékn+u f ‘ I. 7 .5. . r . ) .7 r‘. ‘ ‘ ....y—W (c) ‘aund or 95959d o: L.)2ho ..09 {m7 21 :r \ ' . . W 's I “I'M. (d; Vand~workefi butfinnhn193 {n7 1’9 D7"cb9t \ . :W— ‘ -‘_ «5M0»! (e2 TRCJJnLavfirVen but nn913. (o; 31'378 - .".‘ {‘ - - I~I~M ,‘r "1 \‘ I-..“ (11 netnmn sleeves 70 zvcxu . Ma ’ \ ‘4‘ '. .. . -'-~-.-o-—o {9) 033.9% f , 1 1L9 - . -~. ,- . ":1. “A. -’ .. a" , 1- ' . ".... 'H) 1510933 c0111? :2 Valuers { . ., 4 .- J . -..-‘— \ Man’- .1) *fistau 'GCLMR (~5 mum .. - ' ~- ‘Hfi H‘L~wv~/ - -r (5) 09 1553 (a) 9121. ‘99Ls--') \ ‘1 “W-" ' ...—...... _ ‘fluoi'v. 4~v yaw UEC' scam tap; b5 9 9339 ; n 3511~9 svr-rLd but gcn or hackle 3 Lt2f~9999 '1-”“'-- ~"~« " W ‘ 0. -’~ , ‘A ~ .7 b 9‘. N . ~ g r. 09L“ {Juva =1 ansner is 122‘“ M ‘0 ' ‘1 ,r - - - I" a- r . I - ~ ’\ I . ' J. .9 Q a g u ‘ . ~ v a‘ ' . ‘_ ~ , - ‘ 3 r. . r . _. g. o ~ . I. ”95¢: parmunia “ad 019:.-acc103 -5 all: bu 23a lelh 9111 LC Lou 9:? luu1t 50; ran L1 aLtewpt . 1" -.-- ,... " -:; a... ." 1,, : .. “ "..-. Hi UL“- I.‘ '2 "17 "(J—7.] U. LU! 1. 9. t 1.8:) C 7 F152 ‘ ? x . . -.. - .1: ~v ' . .. . ~ (2.,- 71.237) 1 CZ 737. 9175 Of (”"13 .717)“: .1111- ’1";bt.’0:. .75, C.) thl‘le‘T’EL (X): ' 'w - A ._ ..‘...~ ravfl. a .m- a”... w*.~~.-w*-¢nv HWQ-I"“—‘— .... ‘H”_ U' ”'7 . "3:77‘5‘; {I x ‘13.! fl ‘5'" x cm ...... 1"“ “JGJWI-m- who-HM Mun-1". . n ' ..., -..... . ,1 2 Ki}, 7' 15 71.7.JI (I .L\.\« 2 (JUL I 8 Cl" C‘ )7; “712:?- (.7;:7"i7‘7 ‘LJ fiybdilsJ :1 "'\'-.w—.v “o“. .wa —. L‘- “...-...." . ...).- _—‘—‘§. .— ..“...L.”. ‘( (llf'flx? U 7 x)“ l q ; .4 fit.“— -, 2v 0 Q 3 .I '--~ 1 ' - .u . v ‘ fifilmenus nnu c.tS.ertvru (e .118 to van cansndcr fun to 90: 3‘. .¢.-. 71'“‘ 1.. . ”1‘ '1'. . .1 1. C '1 Liwt leturrs of n, M709 5 1199 «L.gu-au 1., (9) 599099 Txgz "O‘— -—- A i ‘aJM- m:x~.- -:‘.‘:—o- h- -... twv-n . DIM --~o:'-.—‘-—~——..-:«~ ~ nnnnnn 1~—.~o—-1:.-“ L“ ’ "rid ‘ “1“1-‘ ~I‘f‘7 "h 5'... 1-qu ::.O‘:";';D- r w‘ —. ‘4‘ L 9" - 67.71% (21“2 'J' (30115 1111.1. L-m'M‘ 1‘ 157711;: .1 .".‘3 11111-94152. ... 7.2:? MW!) Pugh L2}: I...“ . «uh- . :wmfi' QJq“ "' “-19.“ ,Mp-CJ‘1.~.W*.W“ Owflmm , ”—H 4 - --‘u5_~“" ~ v.~,.- ,-.~ 7 ? .fi'fl-L- var) ~v "\ 2r 1 hf tn 0 ILL/2'7 ‘3 7, 77. 2‘“.- 2-77 M '7" r9 ““7 L5 . J . '. J. . a q u« ~12“; -— ~. .~ 9 -'. «9L 3 . x \ ~ .fl12L 9.39931ur four imaiu purco c.) 321 L319 :93 Ln-S CUUTSJ- (LLDL 2n 0r599, SUCF as 197, 292 ' 1 .3. . ~.2-.- ~' '9 ubr a») heal I —« o . c ' . " 7.. .. ‘ , ,u . > tn) hettlu" out for the evenntq {a} 2’1“nlnF HON t0 9 -@ none“ {'1 \ 1.. .. . .. ' 5:27;”‘n . 1;," 'w .. - , --....— ... .0; 19 8.9953 g OTCLDSJy b9wlng L-;:wniquum (H) .90U5.£mrnn f2' ”IVE 103d con: .. ' v- o-~-—.:fi r } r: ”‘1' .3 fi‘: o'.}. l :)9.? ‘— ‘Ja ink r-u 3} 1- -- 1‘: n C; 7:" .31 Q:’~~pl} *1} i l‘? n \C «411 LIE. HULL: 3» 1-11-2111. .3 L. L .111 L} . I" LI r —-' '\ - . A ' ' . -. +- ‘H -‘ T r o -'I \'.~ ’7 '. ‘- 77-“ .... ‘ ‘4 "f ~r\ ‘ Lu; learnin g bun Lo “LN ”as. (J) L-vrfl ha! b3 9. L99 LL y0=r 153929 (A (:1 ~. 2 "‘1‘“ 1 ,-_. .. 2 . .. . - --—-~ 3’} ()1: h 17/ OJA -2 LC 'v but. Q u;.13e(lj.é.', " f _1 u 7,. - ' 3 ' .1. ‘ - ‘ ”I'n)‘ fi'.~.‘.-' __ --—.—-~n—~v-r~~«-—«I «1) 0:61 1L3 I.sa5uu “OI-ID‘ ._ ‘ QMNo-vv-u'd—v vun-V I“.¢~-*o~I-‘~v" .... -' 7‘ ‘E u‘. .‘r J- ‘n '-‘ - - A . V1 '3‘ a -. \- - - a“ - . O 4' r ‘ no" '. b-‘ ‘v . ‘,-1 ~- I. v.fl 7!.) Jar-1U. BC! 1. {in 7.17 \. t 7.11.7? ' O: 7.1:), 11". N7": 7. \fx’. LL 1.“. (“UFO 7.4.1117r37'5 1n 'u If.) C r7... .4 o .7102?) :1 "foe '1'1d 73713 C" .2.‘.:‘. ‘3 j 7.31.}. ‘ 1‘" A -‘ a 'n . ..T ‘- - . 9 o n 1 n have L’ luarn? ow or 1n wEit may: .- I'Suflnnhifi mn.‘,.=.‘—v— ... ' -° ...-.7 w~ov.u——~-~Q v.--I—---—--u~- ' - a ‘ u ‘ ‘0 ~ v ' q -‘ .... I “L ‘. .0 0-— c'l fl ‘ v ' . O f..1 201 thHK of mu dzflafi».1t29~s ih udeut v.53 90w? 11 ac. uhat; " m-h ’ --’A—"~Ill--.“—--'-‘ ~00 0: s—u—«i .11 T . "‘ _ 1—...— — —v—— 9‘ - nmao—uoo—"ow “O"«n 'w ..vI . -' u . J . I -_. ’ v _I '. ...“ o ' u:.Y .‘ ' (‘9 v ‘ f C292 '2’7-1 1.7.1.2115 07' 857V 3:97- v 1'»! 1’3: 1:03 '21 um 1.11:1: bl7 1.9.. (21.11955. r If‘ so. 1 71 '25, " ' ‘ mu. ’ .._.__ “.... —- .-.-......a-uu—w '7‘ v - v fl' v fl" u ‘ ‘ f Oil—h..- “cc-“mm.— .-v n— -An .m-mwum-on-‘nmw __ Aw -‘ h‘ ... 4*— - ----- It'- -- AAA .-—wr~-~-«ca~-v-I~--”~-~ ”-..—....V—Q-Imnd.—Q—--- . Aopcndlx Ill - (Confinued) XI 1.7:.) V011 CFTQCt "."OI'LI‘ if ADAM“ F1 (”11”? \C'." 1'33 Vii-AL ‘r;.~:’, 11:11;sz . x U12: 3397:” 3 3;" 'i:.",~(;;g’_:;" 31;; q anilnr r5_uvu.o~.:ar gur'nz::bs'{'21c 1mm) ‘3 )IIX. Are you flora interested in (a? thc +echniqua .. o s (b) the fundfiwent .1 pr he ip'es and knoW-c:We on nfipAiczti n AA the 0 principles of s:>11 ? (check only 010) C “wrong—- “09-. T ' - n n "“"t""". “ " we to have a SLt of harm)? 3 cm ounpurdau1ca ce‘ vr‘c‘ w \. ;,\‘ ' -I' 01. c, Ma‘s—W .‘J 5-. h {“3 1'} A ‘5 s! P C ' ‘3 1., Z J 9.: ”J ‘0 I.) 3 L) 1 Q. ’1) Q. 13. "ould you fi buttsnhole) XY:« DO ”‘U tkiik that VQU 3171 “ccept thc ”:fiPon taW¢Ft 1“ +“’S 03333 1? frat those VA: 1611ned te‘utrn? pyplpan ‘ 6 4 '1 3 ‘3. .J. 3 .? 1 O .5 {'1 wavm..ao wow”..-~¢.- '4 .. a -.-o .v +— ~-—-—— - _ v A “-..-.--“- f _ _ AA A—' _ *1~-Mg”‘ih‘ ..-‘o‘ —“_ — 4*“ :_-~ VQ~~IW 3A?To D0 vvu t“in* fihat Von V111 scrent fihc Wntkoqs taught fin this class as ihe aniv'pcoa flip-SAW (11318 )e*-v13,,5? T_=Y.xf? imwwmn-oa m.c—A«-»a-¢p~** ‘ -’ * -- Co-‘ , . _ . A . s“... . “a h— M- u— .v_._ ...M A... run. ”...-h m ha~*=wmo—N- ”m van—v. ‘ o. o - "t"- J‘. ‘ .A' . v.3 , _ _ _ t ,1 .’.f' .. .' 1- ..f . . ‘1 . '1“ m. . .2 I... - .3 ' \ $113..-. 530 :1")le .1.u§£?.!."1f‘?'.- MP3 ( 1i u;‘mx.:5 b :7.) ‘,='. 11: -31 .2: c; _:“:.-=..‘5 In J. 1:5: we 1'?! -.‘”.t '31" '1:‘:'._«.(‘SL ! 711‘ * ~ '3 1 “7""; -r, ‘3"! I":- -\ ~ I} -.. 7N " -\ r? m“ (.1 'v ~-,.-~_. *3 q" 7s (3.2;)- JO’JJ. LJLJ ~'“-! '1. .I‘) 1n(lt.f-'IJ . .‘13 -L 7.}..1 “‘ma-a I A—— - ~5- »~-—p--—-o-.-v-u .— ~--.—~~o~ 'sn—n-n- ..’.~-- -——-~-—— ~~ .. — ..—.. - ‘-‘-.If r-.(‘ -—O~M.fi n—n '-~m‘qm- v~-‘~.mv-_.- a! Q... . ..- ’ofic-v— -~-.—~O\-----.L - .0 ...4 ---o -1 "N T‘ 4.: - 1 1'1‘ 'I . ' 3.1-.. .I. .v r....-.. "-.. .- .I -:.-... x ( “y" ." v-,'\V gVI . I53" 'r~ ("c _/ H‘ ~ u. 'I 9‘ ',"' :.".' .‘1‘7 I-l‘r\ "l' ‘4' f ;.'I 1A.; . A0 yUu um: u Ju1 COAAL AA zus‘Aggt n11 AAxchLM.AAA1 ArwnuAgA1A 11A; ahA-hJu1411m;v 31 .33_.)!,A-,: . .“ [182‘ .r u t? - .' IJ. L L311? f. ' J ' I1 ”mph~~~“ .- cw'¢-v~qr’-qn). n..-Q-.J.’4~.,- .~-.~mM-.~v-Olr--~-Or-IMI. ‘ar‘uv-I- V0-5.MM'IA‘I OW-wa'fififfifi “U-Vuh-flnw tow-\Qr-I’ mit|‘-- I" v'- ."r-C—o “A h __ ——4 LL... WW, r A __ ‘4)...“ v v — - “ h -‘ ‘ .... A - —‘" --o\‘- ”hm“ W—" -0 "ha.“‘, \ ‘ ‘1‘: - -. . -n; : v ‘- y \p > w - .k ~ n_-.- . ~: 0- -. -.. .. , ,- _‘- . .4 . - .. ,. J A ‘f..: 3‘. ‘.. _. *JLVLAA 1H3;VOn :nxauer AAAAAS (m“>r?w , one:‘¢11qlv131A£1 AQI':UA7;TLUXW uLmntfllr cur-Anr(m u<1 ,'11 2 or V‘ _ "’ L"...— .‘ to: 3r -0) Anglaux ”5‘me 9 - ‘ -: .1 mm: - r- “ ‘w ‘ ‘ -..... ... ‘ ' ~-—-av-~.H.-.- Mr»d~c—u~u_fil~um~~ '0-JH ....- “‘3 w... - V _ (me-V-hfia-‘o 'vu Con-hu- v.1.UWO"IY‘-X"IVMM‘- IJII (WWII-“’M“ .4 ‘A - - owwu' Carma-r .-~-~ -.-~~~an-Iu-—;I\—-~ru— n-ovlyv ifi;III. Do VON welcure thu Gfipartvnitv of socialimntion mifih cite” wor."~n in 9 $10 “inn cnfiit?.“- “tan 0139:? “r3? “WI. ‘ ...... “‘ _“ — . ‘l-dI-'-- ‘v w W w u “umi*mqwn—~nu ... ”I.“ —— “‘““" ‘- “ L“ v ‘1 — - ”“90“" RAVI-”\Vstv-vv‘v-O-P“ WWI-“Pfh-n‘ ‘— .- -‘-_ - - -c_~‘~--‘~l raw-«QM». "—4-. a. wyuxJn-A Inw‘.‘. _-p....u-. M'VM‘, . I!“ 3'" .. .'_...-'v'°. :. :. ‘ - - .Im. .. . -.. .. . -‘ 1..: 1,. .. -, ~ .7 _.' . .‘x 34C. Ex:- xmu U1alJ.LI-.7 “.0 CA:- L") 31.1mm 14:9. g'“"'Ml..A 753.! m3“ 1:; HAS 03.4: '3 [air-2"; “-5"; t“. ifs-1.1%? o as. .ho'ov-h. 3"“ Y 1 ~‘L ... 1“ -r 1~ .‘3 A . -'- .n J :1 ’31 - -' .'. ‘3‘ ~ . - . _ .' I " 4-, J. .‘. - " .. ‘ ‘2 . . u.“ '3. a r) r. . H: 1 Iru:!.ur~, .r-'- r 11 \3.v ‘01" fr- '77": (In-”1'" . “-3 - .,. 0"” -‘ III § J I (L‘) .L L) :er all. ‘1 (. E“. Fsz' hf}. p3 L251; “:4. 3.". J I (11,; ‘!_T J J y \' ' u, ' ...‘ I. t? a {Rt 1.31. ' ii.) \A ~11. -3 .V '1‘: :0‘ a“ 1 .1le t1: 1 .‘ 3 FRI. ' “ r '3 ‘ ’I 1‘ '1 I“! .11»; o " 1 "r “,9 {-1 ‘: v‘ -z-‘- -- . '3'! 1. IN. bf: Avg“. J.--- -M- #1.-.. ab; 1 ‘ l. .. a b J U "i. J . H- VI‘LC'B'A -. ~~uv~mn~n ' r ' -' fl " , o: , a - c ' r --:- , at "a ..A ‘ u a. 1' I ‘- C“"""O .530 " J T mm T. 3.3-. ° up .153 L, ‘r in“? 5.4‘51‘74: “LICK f L . a. .‘ . " .. ...'- r .. T~.=..-."£ . a. - . .. Agile LB atiaan- a .3“ flfivsigb no the 1Aupiu t0? ww~mn vv \J -.’\r’ - _';.) ,‘ :3. f) . . «.1 r - (3 DJ ":1 .m. . 2-x. ..J.._ reentnpiw ha L19 ZYVM 1N:4 1 ~I-vv-v ‘ ‘ . '2 - ‘.' r .- .". r. V. ~ .I. ..-: b .‘ ‘I o. ‘1 n f, k I. '. , § ‘1. ’ q - ‘ , r." v AAA]. 00 yau thAnk vovr 15310 ad ~arfianu fifilL ma {2; ant punoie an fan 1A aAj wgflujlg q '1 ' ' ‘..‘ .' " ' ”93.... ., ..- -, .. . ‘A ...- .- ' .. (b) 110.00 .r; 1:10 (.1:- rczu 3n Ivost «45-53:;113 - (3.} (yum: 3311;: AL, MALI 1:1 A _=.-.~ '11,. a i A -.~ 5 ‘ ‘I r I. q \ .- -.v } ' ~. k , 1‘. w ‘ 3i . -v r‘i - bib-..-“ F3 ma uALLAS ; (<3 ; TR) -... 1cm! .2 0.11.19,- w.) "u- :3. . "up—~Dfl arc—n-d.. .V'."'."’; '7 T‘ '1' 'PI‘IV ‘L ‘- ‘7‘" f},1 ’- 1* .3 F', ‘. vnv‘ (w 1' n ‘1“. '~ f“ "1‘. -.- .w 3‘ ,1. Q i- 4".” I‘ ~ I, '. 13““: C } 1‘71. .I..‘ :‘ ‘1 ‘fl ‘, i“ -. {I 1] W, V HI ‘_‘-' JUAN 4 ’0 '. 3U. but; U 1.0 IJIJ‘ n. T;-'.' Azl Lug.) up .1. -2_ ~. 334:3 :Ht; 5141' any: “:3, _»_-~ ..I .' -‘..a L 4 Ads «. 21.0 A .1! -‘ u “guru-‘4' ' h' J " - c. rs . ....-_. -~.- D ,. .-,. 1., .v .-.,-1,. ..L‘ .: ...- .. . _.:..'. .I . .-.‘s ,. A '3 '7'1‘ : -~‘.--.') EAAIAI, 0 You eggsct yo LnA.: AuAcAvr clkoAnq 095: AL-» Uu AAnnuwsz 1. AA. .A¢s ‘ . '1 ..va . “ J - «nan-o 00-0r-unw v Art. 3 ‘/ n 2... n —-—-w~um ‘ —w. ‘l-fi-r-W ‘ —# fi.‘H.-~’-n a¢-_u~.'-.‘-_‘ no”. "- ‘I‘H-MV"--ot~ ~ I-O-Pv- ~4 n-..-.--- ..aa -. ... u..-o--.- ¢A , ‘ . e APPENDIX IV Flint Cemnmity Junior College Home Economics Dept. general Ini'grmatioa for Panel cng‘edgse These blouses are divided into two gramme. Seven are in Group A; here are eight in Geoup B. All of these cotton blouses were made by beginning adult women severe in the same pattern style. Women who scam-2d the blouses in Group A were instructee by the Bishop me thod of , clothing construction; Women in Group B by the traditional custom mthod (as illustrated by Evelyn A. I-Eansi‘ield's book; '- Qlothing Construction). ' In scoring these blouses, do not be specifically concerned over the fiber content, pattern or color of felnic, size, or pat- tern design. Also, time is not a factor in (lemming the ab- ility to cmrehend and successfully accenLeLieh technical skills.- None of the blouses have been mm or laundered. Do not: scare each blouse individually. Ra’c.‘ er, kc your general impression of the entire set of blouses and give one score to each set. Addition 8]. room is provided for specific comments you may feel necessary to sulxnit. Please 323' to be as objective as poeeible in scoring the blouses . .. _ 3m 3 ...-...- . .- K... . ...-..-... ...-....-. ._ 30050 iguana 3am L - . . y . . sung... 5 in Au 835 «o In: .0 gang-2.03m on 33.. .38 .u .98. coca-8d...- poonuoo .o g .0 3333a Queue 3 gfiahsm .- ..Bu 533 :33... 58.30 .m «once .3 e983 383m ... can." nausea-3c gob» .n 08.3 93.30 .83 33.3w .N use: 33.3 use 3%». A 3828a .mneoefi 3:838 488.... Enema-SEES. . n88 .o 4 ego 3.- .nne 8 gone 83$ «5 933.33%... .395 8m m 5 m. we so» 8. 93333.. a .m an» no Ease $825 234 3 ll.- dnflu no E38... 6 . .mqa new Hue .33 goon 2.5 8» Ho memo g .3353 engage age 93 Magoo-moo no.8 A30 303 APPENDIX V 3 ‘3 B 3. g 2 aggomwgn on «3.3 93.3. b53530 pea-E Jr“ 11“ 1".) .30.; .33 Engages-33 .n 3&8 :3qu may» .« 23a .9 2.3mm“. .9833 «gnaw-Ki.” Hung: 8333.50 engaging—«mafia.» 3: A888 iv 38a .2: 303% @883 8.3: .3.- ufiSfiu £8 .85 ... Gonna 3.3.83 :3 83.8 ...H 3338.3... 5e? 34 .o “.... + 33883 .... 82.3 geese 37.5 ... m 38%.. egg h8g3 88.. .3 .H in a . ..w E .n _ 38%.. iv 833 .3 .3. .m V .... n 336883231 0 AMT: 5335513 308nm H9833 0830 a .. no; #8388 .o a @298 3. . _.<&o.e . Ewe“ 3mm damage. 3... o§§8§8§ +43mfinfiso§oafi as? .n. } £3 «no 303% .OH _ E V 883 8 8.. 9E5 3.3» ...-an 4. 9883835856 E 38m 6 Appengdlx V 4- (Coannqud) pods z... “$83 03% ma £95 8.».8 5 O 3:250. com 95 358.8 3493.8 B§&. .... -. L I'll I’b ..ltio”-]\lc. . ‘4' Del 7|." . a I" I ‘I‘llt‘l {III 030.3 Ho aomaov 1‘1 11“ i'lJ III {III - 4.3: gfigm 3 «53: $8 3 .88 3385de 903.30 .0 9850 on 333$.” 3&9. 3 I'll Ill gflgflm 3 :3 £33 nSSu 358 .m women an c963 3333.0. .4 7.. Mafia ”3233.. pfifihm .n wand" 95.30 3.5 gSSm .u . .59: «39.30 .30.? qahmgm .Hi ..i3.,33121§.w%§h nah ,m B05 82%.? t a $06 gag gm 3:an V’l VII? .D. “26.30% mmgmshamnoo m‘mgoavmwu conga. m5 3 ”3.3303 mgmc a 5" 3903 Sansoog 5 33030.“ 533.3qu 530 no 09305 «5 3 9:638.» 3.23% was: 5 auoz 3mn=3§ .5 330.30.“. 3.33.338 go? no 853 m5 3 wfivnoooa c.3306 3.03 a 3.33 38504 .H 3:58 838.338 wanna? go c938 93 3 mgaoooa 9338 d? 5 “to: 3884 ... APPENDIX VI 3% 3 033933.: a .w :2" 3 ogflmoaod a ..n Soc p3 a ..w canfiaaood $3 Had—m . o 3% Ho 3332 33633“ no 05.85 304.3 .6 .ndum Ho .93me $325 .0 3% Mo 59338 omega 2594 .n 3% mo sag .a 5...: a «mid Jam «33 3.28» 085 93 Ho :23 Scam .8.st 33933? pace 93 ”3.3038 no.3 :30 £08 38an ”SEES 3.3“ it it. slrL ”manna. .. .. .3: .8. Enzwgfiu. ..$.m5 a. 11“ - 333.333 9:36 33.9% 93 333m .4” 7.95.. 412.40.11.00... {5% {TC} :11" '1‘ 1111 300M? .398an 835 .MH 1 $858 198.3 3.3 .fi @3330 .3314 826 3g ‘1! 111‘ 3.8% 3.803 as. 88d... ...H 141 ‘1 I‘ll 33.3%. 53: n3 3 ‘ a 1114‘]! ‘ 1.111..“ I «I‘ j ‘1 l 83.88 58.. 3 11 1‘ I14 1‘ 300.30 donaomv “3328. cud—um .oa .52 3 I11 85 EV $00.30 H8933 8.5.3 Mo 55 .m 2.03 H3 238... 3333» may A3 IL 1 i 1 onf -'L .‘OL I I II ."l"i..‘$9§ .§;.£1 ’..)\l‘..‘3(1.. .1 I... O :03 6009038 38.30 M13 I1 14 .141 11114 1;?! 141 95on oz 31v L'I It I'l ......(t.1.?o:“”1|..‘i 33.3.0 ...dnflEmv #033 .c ....o .VOIo. * ' lllli ‘ . ‘11.!!! 63.338 333930 “3 £5 8.3 3v 303.3 H9853 932$ @395 .h ’l Appjendhlx v+Il -1(C awn wcaowm on i 8mg 953m 23 \; . I 35238 n 98.6 330 ,<&6.a Page Mgms.~ Jam 4409504.. QHHBQQfiS-ncdflu.~ a99fi5ha.flEBDEZ—.H .fififiafidflfi~A§Exfififl in. ogu 58 530 .NH . a8§8§§.fi 33.4. 73 , .4 ”1!“. LI" fill». {..32 t‘za‘. ‘,r\)‘fl 3.3.. A3 0 TI" lit-n“ :8; 28M 8 883:. 8.. p883... .m it '8 ti’? 1' I i i!‘ I!“ ‘4! I‘ll"! 88.3 no .8: 35— .m .896 as... ... El» “833m 83. 5% .m 1 4 1 a 1 w mama...“ mafia ..8: .m 948.. 3V .895 3 VI - [Confih ed} $lx 1 i"!'. v .‘Joif‘lff {I ‘5‘ ‘4 388.3 333 .8 32% 8 £5 ... ‘ ll‘ 14‘" .8... 303996 43%! w 936 g «323$ Ho .833 m . «8.58 8383 3333.” .u Apmen mg 3.300% 3 A5 ‘ z 1 l 3:983 a! ' Gamma.» Hangowv 938qu ..n {14811111 14 N. I}... 1'11! an C40. NJ 1.37%. 9&22 E3353 .8 238 8x8: .m 1 “38338 we £5288 «98.x. .m .Efibflmgmatfi Emma? .» maggomrg «0 33%? .m 1|!“ l I!“ 3&3? a $333.33." 3.6.93 .m 8.8 3 Snag ... mflmgfiu .8 9.38.. .m 20Ha§fi>m 438% fl 42%”?4xufi 45859 MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY TEXHLES,CLOTH INF HI‘J AND RELATED ARTS COLLEGE OF HOME EQONOMICS 87.7”, ‘_ 3:37 11111111111111”MIMI/WWIIIII/WM 022113231