.-.-.
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MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY
TEXTILES, CLOTHINS AND RELATED ARTS?“
COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS

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Submitted to the Colle e of
Michi¢C.n State Unive
in 13a? tial fulfill

OI the
equirements for the fiegree

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Dejart1amto Clo t ui1es, anfl Zelatei Arts

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CHAPTTD . PAGES

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Yarn hum er.................................... 3
mensile st1ength............................... 6
Shrinkage........... .......................... é
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The purpose of the stuafi. The purpose of this stuiy is

 

to compare the Specifications ani performance qualities of com-

JJ

parable cotton materials which are made in the Unit on States
and in the Philipp 1119

The writer hOpes that after the data of this stuiy is
complete she will be able to make a report to the Fational
Development Company in the Philippines about the pecifications
and performance ch a1a cteristics of these eight cot on materials
If in any way the Philippine materials do not fall :itrin the

range of the specifications of the American sta niards, then

-

‘1)?

ome wa v help the m' tional Develonment

U

[0

this study might in
Company to improve its products.

This study will not only help the writer in her tea ching,
but also help the National DevelOpment Company of the Phili-
ppines to produce oetter and more competitive cotton fabrics
for domestic consumption as well as for export.

The scooe of the study. In this study, the four cotton

 

, kercale, and sail cloth fr‘m the Phili-

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ypines are to be compared to the
of fabric maae in the United States. The four fabrics will

ani performance

,4.

0351

U)

be compared as to their initial specifics t

fig

qu lities as well as to changes resulting from five launisrines.

-1-

The discussions will be based in a comrar son of hairs of

fabrics rather than differtnces between the various tyées

Dimensional change in th; fabrics will b: ester mined by

‘A ‘ 1 . 1 4 f3 ".- r‘ ‘N‘, 4- a 7-
nana washing proceiure instead 0: by .aehine so as to maLe the

procedure more typical of the Philippine way of laundering.
Colorfas tn ness of the fabrics will be based on exoosure

to light in the Fade-Ometer for periOds of IO, 20, 40, and 80

Inasmuch as the four tyses of fabrics comyared in this
study 1ave different end—uses, the uses for each greuo will

be discussed in as section under discus sic n of results.

Materials iim clt ded in tn; study. The materials to be

 

compared are duck, iii: hi, percale, and sail cloth. It

not possible to secure the identical Linds of mate _ We] from
the Philipeines to cancers with the materials ioeuced in the
United States. So, in cases where iaentical materials were not
available, the nearest tyne of fabric in terms of comis reble

end-use were secured.

Groun of: nfiaterials Width in Cost eer linear Cost eer square
Inches yard yard

 

an:

I. Duck, U.S. 50 Q .74 .89
Duck, Philippines 34 .5 .53

II. Khaki, U.S. 40 ,2.35 £2.11
Khaki, PhilipoineS 31 1.25 1.45

.47
.45

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,.

III. Percale, U. S. 58 ..
Percale, PhilippineS 32 .

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Iv. Sail Cloth, U.S. 35 .s9 .60
Sail Cloth, Philippine533 .58 .63

CEAETER II

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Yarn Count

 

’1‘

To dis tinguish difi erences in weight and fineness, yarns

1

are given size numbers allea counts, lea or aenier. ihe term

"count" aeolies to the size of cotton wool and saun yarn where-

s H

as "lea" aoilies to linen, ana "

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CD_C“'

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anjlies to filament
silk and nan-mane yarn. (14)

".1 Jo; A {\C r: r ‘ .3 O ’ I f
:or cotton and spun yarns, the stanaara usei is cLQ yaras

to the saund. The hi3he1tLe ”uremicnl count, the iiner the
yarn.

he count of cloth and the count of yarn should not be

}__

confused. The former denotes the number of pick and ends to

a scuare inch; +fl€ latter indicates the weight and firenes

of the yarn. The larger th number the Iiner the yarn. (14)
The yarn count (o) of a fabric indicates the number of

ends or warp varns per inch and the number of nicks of fillin

yarns per inch. This is expressed as war. x filling (examdle:

51.}: 60).

t“)

Javing an equal yarn count in warp and illing of a fabric
does not mean that warn and filling are necessarily 0: equal
strength. In or or to :acilitate Weaving, warp v rns ar

fre uentlgr plv yarns and are stronger than filling yarns. In
the brocess of weaving, the tension on the wait“ is greater

than in the filling. Yarn cou alone is a somewhat vague

ndication of durability. De anced stren

-13...

abric when the te1siles¢ren3ths 1.

o
w

H :.
1 were ann fillin are eou

Balancei strength is often desire.o le in clothing fabrics because

C+

1e strain is often as great on one set of yarns as on the other,

es pe Mcielly in the work and play clothes.
1wist

The twist (4) of the varn nlays an important role in det-
erminin; the character of the finishes cloth. Differences in
fabrics are produced by variation in the amount and direction

of twist and the manner in which yarns of differing amount and

direction of twist are combined in the construction of the cloth,

The best exam? e for this is the crepe fabrics.

Yarn twist (9)0 causes tLe fi1ers to 11. in £31 a s, and,
since fibers stre see are in the fiber direction, fiber stren3th
is not fully utilized. The twistin; of fibers on themselves
lowers fiber trenetn apjrecia abl . an influence tls t may assert
itself in axial yarn regions. The portion of the fiber strength
that cs nnot be realized in the yarns because of the sniral arranje-
ment of fibers is not completely lost. Raiial forces press the
fibers t03ether incre sin; friction and rais in3 the density of

the yarn.

Twist (9) has two apparent effects--one tending to reduce

{A}

the proportion of fflmx’strength realized, the other ten in: to

increase yarn strength by press n3 the fibers together. These
Opposing effects do not change at similar rates as the twist
multiplier is changed. The strengthenin3 influence predominates

at low twist, the WOuHCnLn” effect at high twist.

(IDis a measure of the spiral turns 3ive n to a yarn

-5—

in order to hold the constituent fibers or threads together.

Up to a certain point, an increase in the twist tends to make

a stronger yarn; but above this point, the additional twist
adds a strain to the fibers which results in a weaker yarn.

In general, then, there is a certain limit range of twist which
is desirable. For certain effects, however, less twist (soft
twist) or more twist (hard twist) may be necessary.

Yarns (8) which have been twisted but once are called
single. When two or more singles are twisted together, a ply
yarn is formed. Such twisting of ply yarns increases the bin-
ding strength within each single, and consequently the strength
of a ply yarn is greater than the combined strength of its
singles.

The direction of twist (8) in yarns is indicated as S
end 2. Yarns have 2 twist when the angle of the Spiral twist
of the fibers is that of the center line of the Z. Likewise
yarns have S twist when the an3le of the spiral of the fibers
is that oftflmaeenter line of the S. A ply yarn is usually
twisted in the onoosite direction from the sin3les of which

it is composed. The twist is indicated as 8/2 or 2/3.

'1 . why a
£a°n number

 

The yarn number (8) is a relative measure of the fineness
or coarseness of a yarn. There are several systems of yarn
numbering used; for cotton, the cotton hank number is used.

In some systems, as the number goes up the yarn is coarser.

This aptlies to the denier, the spyndle and the grex number.

(In these, the relative measures are weights per unit length).

“1

In the other systems, as the number goes up the yarn is finer.

This applies to the metric number, type, runs, cuts, leas, and

ED

hanks. (In these, is relatiie me : ares are length per unit

weight).

‘A

Tensile Strength
The strength (9) of a textile yarn and ultimately the

fabric depends to a large extent on the tensile strength of
the fibers of which the yarn is comio ose1. This is x3ecially
true of the filament materia ls , such as silk, rayon, and nylon.
Yarns manufa Ntirei from short-len3tn fibers, like cotton, wool,
staple rayons, hemp, jute, ramie, and other similar fibers,
in the final analysis depend also on the stren3th of the fibers
for their composite structural c qarecteristics. The contribu-
tion of fiber stren3th to the completed yarn pro: e ties varies
widely; it deiends upon such factors as fiber friction, staple
len3th, the fineness, and yarn twist, in adlition to the final
fabric soecifice tion. The fiber stren3th still remains the

basis for stren3h requirements of the finished product.

H
:3

Fine 3a urns are ently weaker than coarse yarns. The
reason seems to be that fine yarns have a hi3her surface-to-

volume ratio than coarse yarns. Fibers in the yarn surface

make few contacts with adjacent fibers and have less radial
pr ssu1e ey erted against them. This effect is sometimes

obscured bv the fact that onlv the lonfi, strong cottons can
be Spun to fine counts.
Cotton yarns are highly complex in structure and behavior.

"I

D 1" ..v f‘ r‘ - f‘ - :1 . .0. ‘
A variety 01 com ination oi yarn Counts an, twist inctors are

-7—

in common use, the combination bein3 determined by the cotton
and the purpose of finished textile.

The stren3, t1- (13) of anv fabric is desende ent in part uoon
the friction dev:lon;d at all noints of contact along the sides

of adjacent earallel s.raias and at the points of intersection

The character of the weave and tLe

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ene s, the finish of th: fabric, and the kind 0: l_beP

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employed, the count an: character of the yarns in each set of
threads are f:cto1s which affect the amount 0

are a part of tkat somewhat e~lu ive quality ca llei ”fabric

The strength (0) of individual cotton _ibers as well as
of yarns is influence3 to an apireciaele extent by relative

humidity. Fiber st11en13ths incre we with risiné relative humi-

dity in th3 lower 11an e, bu t do not r633 ni in w3st cases to

63

I

increase in relative hotniiity bevoni 603. It has been esti-
mates that cotton libers saturated with water are aLgut 203
stron er than air-dry fioers.

The strength (8) of cotton fib rs is imrortant becawn it

(7.)

is associated with desirable service qualities. Ereitins

1. D O! . ° .1.
stren3th 01 a 1ioer may be exnress 1 e113

_ . g. (‘1 ‘ - . v.- N _ ‘, x! _ O
1:;sile stren3tn (m) is the reasin3 s ren3t3 :er unit of

’ - ‘ ‘ — r? ' F? A ~. - r“ I, J- o ‘ ‘ .1. R ,: ~I -' /\ V
lioer C”OES-S€Ct10n an- is is en ent to a lir a he ree u3on

(TH,- - -. - a J— ‘ --0 A ~ A _._"' ‘—, . - 0‘ v» < « .
fiber. ins tenS1le st1e31tn 01 Cotton 1i ers varrd iron ;<-e2

3

. o o I 1 ' W_.r1 C I
eel for Southeast V‘rieties to 84-e9 1s; :or so.e mii- -coatn

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' , .. -{7 “ .. 1 . 1 n
ariety. sc.if"'and th1Cancss of lie 3 lfi L s vary in a measur-

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with variety, region Cl growth, ani waturity. Such qualito
helo to determine the service which the fiber :ives in clotLind
and household fabrics.

The amount of moisture (8) Leli by cotton fibers affect

physical prooerties such as breaking st re enjth , haLa, an? ease

of ironing.

 

Shrinkage (ll) is the lin ar amount of fabric which will
contract warpwise or fillinowise when liuucrlei. All fibers

' 5 J.

v. . . -, - .1. 1,- .q- . a- l J.‘ .' ."- .... _,.. . _,..
have some tenaency b0 sh-;na, itt LfllS tenaency is Creatly

Johnso (11) has shown that qh‘cwr'c‘e in cotton goois is

$0135 used have little effect on the amount of Shrinl rage, al-

though they may alter the ra e of shrinkage, or the time required

for tLe full amount of shrinkage to occur. It should he con-

[.10

sidered als tLat shr ntage is not comulete in one laundering;

but th t the greatest anount of shrinkage would occur within

9.:

the first five laund.erincs .

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In the first we .shing (ll) the f
relatively la r~e chances in the share of the threads; there are

local strains in the structure which fiisaoiear

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6
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go
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Justment in the Nut so uent dryinqs and washing. JLese strains
can be pictured as places in the yarns where sticzin: has occurea.

When the yarn eries, free space develons, usic ch allows for accommo-

dation between fibers with a les: strained and more shrunken

structure when the cloth is wet out again. A3itation du1 in

u:

L.
L

;1e washing treatment heles to overcome the: elcca 1 strains and
therefore promotes shrinka3e.

Cotton (9) in reases in volume upon absorbing moisture
liom the atmosohere. Therefore, all ordinary cotton is normally
slightly swollen. Swellin3 increases with humidity and may
cause ti3htly constructed cotton goods to become harder or
stiffer or to chants in dimension. Reverse changes take place
when the humidity is decreased.

Snecial Prooertie Defects of Cotton

 

Cotton (9) is hifhly resistant to dearadation by heat and

’40

can be roned at veLy high tezperatire. among its imoortant
defects are: (l) its'limpness" when it is wet, (2) its ten-
dency to crease easily and become rumpled, aid its tendency

i.under moist

r—‘d

to be attacked by fungi, with he loss of str en t
conditions. At present these defects are generally outweighed
by the durability and lon3, fletin3 life of cotton and by its
hi3h resistance to drastic treatment such as constant laund erin+3 .
Cotton (9) is an excellent hyrienic material because in

if ed form it contains no protein, it can be sterilized

Ho

pu

'.5

without danger of dis inte3r ation, aid it blef;‘ ches to a clear
white.

Cotton increases in volume uoon absorbing moisture from

the atmosphere. The efo ore, all orin"rj' cotton is normally

slightly swollen. Swelling increase: with humidity and may

cause tightly constructed cotton goods to become harder or

-10...

stiffer a-d to chan3e in dimensions. Reverse chan3es ta‘e
place when the hursidity is oecreased.

Cotton fibers (14) are comparatively short; therefore one
would expect them to produce a yarn that is fairly weak in
tensile strength. However, a cotton fiber, because of its
natural twist, spins so well that it can be twist very
tightly; hence,since tightly twisted ya_ns are more durable
than tnose that are sla ackly twisted cotton yarns are strong
and fabrics made from ttea are durable.

Stains on cotton can be removed more easily tha.n from
other textiles.

A thou3 h cotton (4) soils and crushes easily, 1L can be
washed and ironed wit’out injurv as the use of boilin3 w_ter,
weak alkali and soap do not materially affect it. Cotton will

thstand much rou3h handlin3,

water. For
most

and

The fact that cotton (7) in

this

arments that

. ~A‘ r1
are laundered

hygienic fabric,

reason cotton

being

high temperature, and

is

(‘1

‘—

consid
-Octical

either comme

for househo

ered by some
ld

rcially

boiling

8.53

stronger when wet than

the
articles
at home.

when

dry is of obvious advantage in resisting mechanical stresses

encountered in laundering.

The plain weave (14) is someti

tabby weave.
construction.
it

because is

and wh on firm

Some of

Q

U

'Weave

the most

dill"?

, ,3

a
s e L;

5..
)

ble

The weaving nrocess is

d

an. -

"W

imu

/

le.

cl

Plain weave cloths can be cleaned

osely woven, they wear

all 65L
fabrics are m
comparatively

well.

cotton taf

nrJ
Lv‘...

e

inex

feta or

in this

ensive

easily

3

-11-

Twill weave (14) is the most durable of all weav~s. In
this weave the fillinf yarn is interlaced with the warp so
as to form a diagonal weave. If the "wales" run from ueoer
right to lower left, the weave is called the rijht-hand twill;
if the”wales7run from upper left to lower right, the weave is

n '7 ”I ‘
called a leit-hane twill; if the "va es run both ways‘, tne

weave is a herrinjbone.

.0!

CEAi ER III

TIN-D

-‘VJ

r “xx ‘51:
ring

TEST HET OCEDURES

Specific test proc ures are inc Hccor aance
and CS-Sgi;4 standan 5s and were done under cont re

70°F and 65 Pasfieo-

A. YARN AHALYSIS

 

 

wit _ A . S.T .35.
lled conditions

1. Yarn Humber. Universal Yarn Numbering Balance was
the instrument used for determinin3 yarn number. The specimens
were placed in the condi tioning room iCur hours before they
were weighed. They were n asured carefully on a ruler a3a ins t
the proper mark (spun in this case), cut off, twisted into a
convenient knot and carefully weigLed on the ; chine. Ten

Specimens were used and their averages taken.

 

2. arn Twist. A.S.T.K. 1955, page 169.
Twist Tester was used to determine the twist cou
sin ml ply yarns, a 30" strip yarn was ravelled
fastened into the ri3ht hand clamp and inserted
Opened left land clamp of the twist tester (the
for single yarn was 1"). The depressor was lowe

The Suiter

nt. For the
to 4" anl
into tae
gauge length
red onto the

yarn with a three gram deflection load and the yarn wes pulled
to slac ken until it was cpnosite the lower asr?e-. The yarn
wasthen untwisted slowly until it was oniletely uitwiste’.
Readings were made, record 5, and averaged. For the ply yarns,
a ten-inch gauge was us;d. The tw is t was caraletcly removed
by twisting the yarn in the opposite direction of the ori3inal
twist. A needle was inserted between toe plies at the left

30 w and moved to the rifiht jaw. The twist within the pl: was

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determined ov clipsing all tL; plies ex

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re in paral' el position. The gauge length was C33“”CS from

1‘"
(I)

ten to two inc es without allowing chCn3e in tn ist. The ply

was untwisted until the fibers were parallel..The sane se.hod

«A

$38 used for the filling strips.

 

I1 'x' ‘v *er.‘ ‘3 :1 ,"‘"““ f“‘ N {1 77"., w-a I‘ v) M {'1 (‘1 ‘ ‘:"-‘ fl 'fim'j‘x :1 f” TI-f" P TT *F'fi‘f‘ 17,1
I3. FR .10 A). —"“§.~L-_ V'J .HAI VI... _.'.L --L.-‘_5:VJV -T..L.l._\ LIE-.44-; 4.....114 L1_'.r;._./‘.'_'4-- -..4
A -r .r_3 f "r' 75 .1. 1...‘ \
l. arn Count. n.s.T.n. 1930, page l3). 5y the use of

 

the pick glass the s.ctua 11 nu of ends of wars and fillin:
yarns were counted in five dif erent 1:12 ces from each fabric.

Count was made at ten difierent places and the averare count

(

for warp and fi llinC; calculated. 30 count was :aoe nearer

Lie seivmte than 1/10 th 1-:idth of 121C isle

c
M

g x q r m ‘- -
‘OU91f‘e *ar‘a. 5.1.80 .L. O"... 19 .'

2. height Per

 

2 square inches stagger ed within
the area of 20 inches were cut from the :aoric and placed in the

conditioning room four hours beiore weight determinations were

weight per square yard was calculated and comparisons on the
OLiainal, after one laundering, after five aunaerinqs, and

a change of weight due to launderin3s were alculated.

 

3. Te -ns il e Strength. 035944, 1044, pages 3-5. One
set of specimens for watp a i on; set

-‘

were prep “P C and ravelled to 1 inch in width. Each set was

tested for original wwat and dry tens ile str ngth, after

having hung in the conditionin3 room for 24 iours.

the uiper half of the

C'”
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specimen was clamped to the jaws for determination of dry

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qor both warp e.n 11

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[.10

Ila.

‘rd

strength

The lower half of the s:t of the test specimens were

(

f

imrners ed in distilled water at room tewoerature for two hours

to become thoroughly wet. The Specimens were removed one at
a time and tested inrediately for areazing St? 918th th etesting

of each specimen being com leted within one minute after its
removal from the water.

The five wet an” five dry determinations were recorded

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,3
3
5‘
c1"
0
O
U)
K J"!
l‘ O -
l
4—“
[.1
’3
J):
4:~
d
[D
4
(D
(.0

a. Colorfastne
21-23. The Specimens were prepared (2 1/2” x 7 1/2" the
longer dimension running in the warp direction) and placed he-
tween Opaque covers that shield it from lisht ex set for an
area of about 1 5/8"x 2" which was eLposed to air and light
on both sides. The Specimens were exposed to the light in
the Fade-Ometer for periods of 10, 20, 40, and 80 hou;s. The
Specimens were then rated according to the change of colors

esulting from exposure

b. Colorfastness to Laundry. CS 59-44, 1944, pages

15-19. The Launder-Ometer was the instrument of test use ,

1-pint preserving jars were held with their oases to. :ard a

J

“3

horizontal shaft 2" from the center 0 rotation and the shaft
rotated at a speed of 40-45 evolutions per minute was used.
Tes No. l. T‘e specimen to he tested was placed in one

pint glass jar cents in alOO m1. of a 0.)? soap solution heated

-15-

to 10% 0F and ten 5/8" metal balls were added. The jars were

.d

then closed and placed in the Lo underdmeter which was half-

0 ‘ ’1
filled with water at 105 F. The machine was 9 MPEt a :or
-7 - ow—q
30 minutes maintaining tne temperature of 105 0F 12 :. The

specimens were rinsed by shaking each vigorously for 1 minute
in 100 ml. of water at lOSCF. The rinse was repeated with a
change of water. The Specimens were again rinsed for 2 minutes
in 100 m1. of water at BOOF containing 0.0:% of acetic acid.
The specime- ns were given a third rinse for 2 minutes with
water at 80 F, removed, and dried by pressing the specimens

in contact with white cloth with.a flat iron having a tempera-

.L.
,_>

ture between 2750F and 300“F wi‘ the white cloth uppermost.
Test To. 2. The some procedure was used as in test number
‘ . (23' W (7
one except that the temperature was raised to 120 F 12 F. This

was a more severe test. The degree of fadin. of each group of

0-}

materials on the two tests were graded and evaluated for color
change.

0. Colorfastness to Perspi ation. CS 59-44, 1944, pages

 

23-25. On each of the test Specimens a similar sized piece of

composite test cloth was sewed and each was wet thoroughly with

3.1:

ci solution. The amount of solution left on the Specimen was
such a ratio tzia t when the dry roll weighs 2 1/2 3., the total
weight was between 6 and 8 oz. depending on the construction

of the specimen. The two pieces were then rolled together with
the fabric to he tested on the outside. The test cloth was

placed against the face at the printed Specimens. The same

procedure was followed for the alkaline solution test."

-15-

Each roll was then elaced in a glass tube, one end of which
was closed, leaving 1/3 of each roll orojectinz, the other 2/5
of the roll being protected fro“ evaooration.

The tubes were placed in an oven in which thetemoerature
was maintained at 1003+ 2QF. The Specimens were allowed to
remain in the oven until dry. E0 soecimen was rinsed after
drying.

h degree 0‘

1-3

.ion of the test cloth was rated

H,
Q;
P.
n)
O
O
f-J
O
w
{‘0
r...

(l

equal to or Treater than that corresponding to HUnsell Neutral 7.

J

Discolored test cloth was then scrubbed for three minutes with

A
4

' _ e a... . .
a 0.5p soap solution at 120 F + 5 g, and then examined again
for discoloration.

d. Colorfastness to Crooking. CS 59—44, 1934, pages

 

Dry Cloth Test. One of the test specimens was attached

 

H

to the top of the board 0: the Crock meter on which the finger"

rests. A square of the bleaehe , unstarched cotton cloth was

timed at an astroximate rate of 2 strokes her second. The cotton
tion was rated as less than, equal to, or treater than -hat
“unsell Neutral 7. The discolored cotton
cloth was hen scrubbed for thre; rinutes with a 0.53 soao

solution at 120”F, rinsed in warm water (100

Tet Cloth Test. Tke preceding test was rejeated on the

 

-17-

"1 3‘ ‘Tt‘fl ‘ ' A .~ ' ‘ ‘T tjw « , .1
U. $4.15.; v-5;4-.. ‘J .0 T4.— M 5.1.; .- AA --.J-C.
“'MG 0' AW“) (1‘ “ "' Ci:

1. oiaonsiunal v..V..r.e. o

 

A 20" X 20"s square test specimen

square accurately by thread lines

directions. Then another thread
center of the 18" x 18"
h (31°C?

wise

a '- J-‘r- A H
on each directidn (see uia ram).

 

distance on both wa

were

1 A” o 5 11:11::

fillinj

.. ~T.. " J.
line was maples betwe

’S

"wis e and

actually 3 thread

 

 

 

 

 

TLe ma r57 a, b, c, for tee :illinrwise direction wore
made :arallel 0 each other and those were the :l’ces

to determine dimensional

q
"1

:ei on lines a, x, O.

3.?

Yr.
‘-

I"
.w

machine to mate it more tynical

l.

.1"
‘

11c1ent mcuit of

materials

scueezint motion. Thev were

.- .- u

water. The see imens were

0

.
$5
-a

:- 4.1
,1- L'fle

Philiooinc way

- -\
launsijr.uoao 3;:1 eno.

3 \TPIQ A'j
AL .-JD FU:

. :V 0
he :1 h ta "“3 used.

C
(.0
xi)
} )3

\,

-32

O)

..
r1 'nr‘
L'J .. .I-

W ’3. I." ”3

line marks

C
-l( ‘1-

Uien the sceciiers were damp enoafih to be ironef, hev

U
were laid on a oagdei ironin? table, all noticeable wrinkles

'0‘ ~1- ~ ’A r“ ‘ 'fi ‘ F‘ I‘. I . ‘2, .- n I“ z-fi . V
careiall» smootuei CUb, ani then oressei bv raisin; an lowerinc

'J

to stretch or *istort the fabric.

r’l“
' 3

(D

H.
d
O

C5

U)
0
{0
rq
:3
O
r *-

mIA
.LL'

(D

0 fl. ‘ _ o A
specimens were then measurei w1th a steel tape mea-
. 1 ‘ :3 I" W I . r V
sure on tne threaa line narrs. Dii:Ls10nal change was compu-

J.» -i‘ -

ted irom the average change in inches from tne oiiqinal measure-

le Strenith. CS 59-44, lQfie, pages 5-5.

*Jc

2. Caan"e in Ten:

 

r-xi .w,‘ 1 :. :- .-_ ..:2 13:7 . r 0 -.
11e sane metnoi as inc1cated unier u no. 3 wxs usel 1or speci-

I" r '0 4" q ‘ 3 1 11‘ , r‘ 17 , v ‘3 ' - '\ 4
mens taken ircm Iiorics wniCn nal oeen laanierei 1i e tires.

5 H _\ o 1 - a Q r .r‘ i "m 1
3. ChQnQU in Earn Count. A.U.T.h. 1?; , cage 1'). Tne

 

(

to
g)
r};
x )
(.3
’ S
O
O
(D
i \
L3
*3
Q
g D
('19
U
“'1
(J
H
B
(D
C.
U)
(9
}-
O
*‘S
9’1
SD
'3‘
:3
O
O
C.
D
ci-
0
:5
E '1
u'
C)
O
F“
E3
8
(.0

4. Weifht Per Souare Yard. A.S.T.H. 1956, page 174. The

 

 

same as method B No. 2 was us;d for soecimens taken fro; cloth

-19--

,_..
4‘ .

':l’~Pj-’-

”If-[Ff /?/'/'-/

 

U.S. DUCK

I

/’//--:'”‘///'/I////// f

4‘ ' \IN'AN/\x’\./’\,'\z\,® 1w -

PHILIPPINE DUCK

DISCUSSIGH LED AYALVSIS CF DATA

Boys (5) descrises duck as a canvas fabric which is one
of the heaviest anj strontest woven fa :rics made. Accor r:1ing
to the Specification description of U.S. duck by Hoye, (6)
the Specific fabric used in this study is classified as army
duck. The U.S. duck is rc5e from two ply yarns in both v.arp
ani fillint. The Philiorine duck under stufy classifies as
a double filled flat 5 ch acco 5ing to Hoye, with two warp

a.

cnos woven as one and two-ply yarns in the filling.

'1

rzormance must take into account

(T)

Comparisons in terms of p
the fact that the Phili pine double-filled flat duck and the
U.S. army auch are actually different tyjes of fabrics and
wuuli be expected to m:e form differently altho 3h they have
comnarable end-uses.

A. mTST anti ‘*3 éfitTvs s or ohiiirfit ssritzics

.‘J‘t .'_-n - .-‘_.

 

1” Yarnénelvsi s

 

U.S. Duck Philipnine Duck
Yarn Analysis Warn Filling Warn Filling
Yarn number 13.59 13.19 11.86 12.39
Tyne of yarn 2_Qly 2 sly sinale 2 ply;,
Twist 12/123' 49/12s 5.8rs 11/15.7’s

 

 

 

 

Analysis of the Philippine fluch indicates that coarser

(.4

heavier yarns -Jere used for both ware anfi filling than in the
U.S. duck. The U.S. 5uck hai a slightly higier tensilesmrength
in bath warp anfl :illing rimc-ily because of the area—er number
offiner yarns ani higher twist.

(fi

The 3.0. duck woven of two ply yarns in both warp anfl

~1é-é

’1.

-20...

filling has 12 turns per inch in the single comhonent yarns
compared to the ply twist of O and 12 respectively in the single

'/

yarn. The Philipoine duck had a two ply yarn only in the filling.

in the sly are slightly hiyher than the filling yarns of tLe
U.S. duck. The warp ends of the Phi1i1nine duck woven as one
each had approximately 17 turns per inch which is higher than
the number of turns of the singles of the nly yarn in the U.S.
duck, but lower than the total turns per inch.

2. Fabric Analysis

441

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

U.S. Duck Philiooine Duck
Fabric Analysis Warp Filling_ Warp Filling

a. Width in

inches 30.5 34.52
b. Cost per

linear yd. .74¢ .50¢
c. Weave Plain Plain
d. Weight per sq.

yd. in 02.

(original) 10.11 9.61
e. Yarn count

(origina1)‘ 58.8 37.6 95.2 32.2

 

Although the Shiliboine duck is 4" wider than the U.S.
duck, the latter fabric is more exoensive. This may be due,
in part, to the quality of cotton used, to its higher construc-
tion soecifications and higher cost of labor in the United States.
Boys (5) states that the weight per square yard of a double-
filled flat duck is between 8-10 oz. and for the army duck, Q-
15 oz. The weight of the Philippine duck in this study is 9.61
oz. and the U.S. duck is 10.11 02. Both fabrics fall within
or exceed the standard specifications in weight for their fabric

classification.

or the army duck is 50 x 40 yarn

H)

Specification staLdards

-21-

count; for the double-filled fuck a yarn count of 80 x 32.

The yarn count for the 3.8. army duck in tri" ctudy is 58 x
37. The Philiprine flat duck in this study is 95 x 32 yarn

count. Both fabrics conform to Specification standarfs in
yarn count.

Although both materials are classified as duck, the warp
of the Philippine fabric hes a higher yarn count ($5.2) than
the U.S. fabric, (58.8) because the Philibnine fabric is a

double-filled flat duck in which single yarns are used. The

U.S. army duck is a different fabric construction in which tWo

(D

ply yarns are us d. The filling of the U.S. army duck is slightly
higher in count than the Fhiliopine duck.

3. Tensile Strength

 

 

U.S. Duck Philiooine Duck
Tensile Strength in Harp Filling Warp Filling
Lbs.
Original, dry 114.2 88.2 8628 58.8
Original, wet 113.6 88.6 94.8 64.8

 

It is very obvious tha. in both fabrics the warp is stronger

than the filling. This is to facilitate weaving as well a end-

U)

use requirements. In the process of weaving, the wear and ten-
sion on the warn yarn is greater than on the filling. The ten-
sile strength in both fabrics were higher in wet determination
than in dry determination. Mauersberger (9) states that cotton
is stronger when wet than when dry.

In the original dry tensile strength, the warp of the
.U.S. duck is approximately 23% stronger than the Philinnine
duck, due in part, to the better quality of cotton used, its

yarn structure, and higher yarn count. The original dry filling

.,_ q .. an J- , 1" s -. .~ 4“, -.- < ~‘ VF . w J‘ O'- . 0-. '4' ‘, I" I “.
strength of the J.S. iabrlc in .3 roxihatel 39. greater than

'I
V
(I

the :hilippine duck due to the diiference in yarn size and s ruc-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colorfastness U.S. Duck Philippine Duck
to:
a. Litht Close 1 White
b. Pelspiration
alkali Class 1 Thite
a id Class 3 r"ite
0. Laundry Class 2 'b't
d. Crocking
wet Class 1 White
dry Class 4 .hite

 

Since the Phil was not tested for

’Jo
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)
H
:5
‘7)
{1:
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O
in).
'J
I
FJ.
(—4..
U)
a
F“
(+

color change. All discussions her , there fore, aertain onl
to the U.S. du 1:.

A. Colorfastn as to Light - Class 1

 

The material did not show appr ciable change after 10
h are exposure to light in the Sale-Ometer, but showed an
appreciable change after 20 hours and more change after 80
hours. Such material is considere: satisfactory only when

colorfastness to light is not important. The U.S. duck in

(r!-

guer ant he consumer colorfastness to

e.

(I)

this study does not
light. Furthermore, for many end-uses this rating is rela-
tively poor.

B. Colorfastncss to Porsniration

 

(a) Alhal 1-Class l. TLe discoloration of this material

 

would be in nsignificant if it is used by itself. If this mater-
ial is used with white or anr other light colored material,
discoloration is excessive because it cannot

be removed oy soap and water. For worPin: cloth mi 2 this would

‘—

be poor.

m

(b) Acid- Cla es 3. Thi material is expected to give ex—

 

cellent service in resistance to color change due to normal
perspiration staini ing.
C. Colorfastness to Laundry-Class 2.

Since the material did not change in color and did not
have an appreciaflbe staining to the attached white cloth, it
can be satisfactorily laundered either in home or in commercial
laundries provided the temperature of the water used does not
exceed 120°F. The material should not be dried under direct
sunlight as that would cause greater change in color. The

my du ck had better fastr see to laundering than to light.

D. Colorfas tn ness to Cracking

 

(a) Net—Class l. Inasmuch as the discoloration in crocking

 

when the material was wet did not disappear after scrubbing,
the material would not be considered satisfactO‘; LOP use
where this type of discoloration (crocking) could occur. If
this material were made into a garment, and worn on a hot -ay,
the moisture due to perspiration would crock and discolo or the
The und—rarm of the aarme .nt would be the area

‘4‘

of the garment most afie cted.

«g

(b) Dry-Class 4. Since there was no appreciable dis-

 

 

 

 

coloration of tr e white cloth after the croching test when the
material is dry it may he considered fast to croching and satis-
factory unde: these cond;tio ns of use.
B. TJST DATA ATE 9*ATVQIS i “9T2."7 l AID 5 LD”I:L;ITGS
l. Yarn Count
U. S. Duo 05 Philipdine Duck
Yarn Count .ar Filling_ Warp Filling
After 1 L ;390 lilo 9502 BE.

l. Yarn Count

Vern Count
' 1IL-er‘__5 L '1‘"
uh4v* in Down.
alLer l L
Change in Count
aft er 5 L

TV

”(UL

gjcontLL

U.S Duck

'IIaZfip
.»- z

{3.4
/4.0

$1.0
/ .4

Filling

Philippine Duck
Filling
35.0

/2.4
/3.8

~Tn v:

nix/'41:)
94.8

0

 

 

 

:52"; cha. .ge alter
..1 L 9/l.8 /9.04 o /7.4
3 change after
5 L / '68 /1006 -042 [(11.8
The warp Of both the Philippine and 1.5. fakrics Showed

 

insignificant cr3n3e in ycrn count (.4 of a yarn) after the
five launderings.‘ The D Mllin s of both m9terials showed orac-
tically the same increase of 4 yarns oer inch 3 result of
ua;pwis. s”rinka*e. There was no “or001931e chan3e in either
ferric in were count.
2. Height Per Square Yard

fleight per square U.S. Duck Philippine Duck
vari in ounces Warn Filling Warn Filling

 

A7. t:r 1 L-
nt‘”RL

l0.0£
£351

 

11P1F%Wt

 

 

 

ChangeIin
after 1 L33 .3“, - .05 /.33
Chance in wei3ht
guilt CT? 5 I. I! 057 ’010
The slight increase in wei3? ht of the Philippine duck sfier
one lsunderin3 is probably due to the paiticles of e no that
were not thoroughly rinsei out. The elight decrease in the
four aiiitional launderinve can ‘e accounted for :3 the fiber
loss ani soluble sizing.
T e U.o. iJck 3n the dher h“ni behivej jifferentlr. It
decreasel sliNhtl" in wei3ht eiter one launieninj hut increased
slightly in weitht as comfiared to the orifincl a?ter five laun-

. A u ‘ . .v» ~1- ,q n - ‘I 4 Or‘ v- H
ucrin’ It csn ce ac ounte; 10:, in p31 oy shrinks e.
- ° -.1 J- 1 ' rs. - ”1° .. -. - n 4-u T n
The slightly hibher weight yer square yard of the L.o.

over the Ehilipoine iuc: is uniouotedly the differences in yarn
an: isoric structure of the two fabrics--thet is ya1n size,
twist, an; count as well as weave.

3. Tensile Strensth

 

Tensile S trength U.S. D
in Lcs. fisro
After 5 L

l

k Philipfiine Duck
llise Warn Fillin:

 

After 5 L

 

 

 

wet 59.8 Ch.O 75.2 55.2
Chanfe in lbs.

after 5 L dry /6.4 ~7.8 -l§.6 155-4
Chflnqe in lbs.

after 5 L we )202 /5.4 ~13.” 1.4
I change after

s L dr' 4/7.: -8.04 —1S.o _/9.3

 

: _ f _’
5 L we _/49.o %p.z -19.o ,1/2.3
I? l ' I. L d l" ”4 ‘55. £11... .._ A .. 5'1 L; C; - _ _ hb <3. ..- '. L3 [1 x.) ft :4. C " -
31y we 7 ete 1 n ion of ”he Mili he uc” s‘cue 1e
crcsse in strength b? 183 after five lsunieiinjs. Wet were

determination showei center: :le decrease.

The original wetvarp str;n3tL (113.

(7
(I)
H
H'
7"“
p
r‘
H
.3
1.1
O
N
D
3
r—L
D
‘3
:3
Q
"S
1' 4
i.
[’7
rt-
I
J
(D
t-
q
r'l'-
:v
A
H
F"
[:-
O
R)
[*4
t f‘
(
\..
O
I 3
I“
}Jo
U)

duck wsw
may be flue to the finis L o: the yarns which sii not fiermit
comslete alsorction of water. The fact that after five laun-
derings the wet- dry stLength r.l‘tionshi‘ was significantly
differs ent than initially, further supports the isct thut water

-, r :5 1 ~ ’6 '0 . - I: - (1. h n
was completelt sees oeo siter live launuerinbs an; eccoun;ei

for this changei reletionshio. I1cresse in war? strength after

('7

eunierings we flue to the

U)

isnificantly high shrinkafi

V,

(D

The increase in fillint strength of the U.S. fa oric siter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

five la mierin s in TCL detersin“tion is Sue to the ex essively
hi3h stningsce in tLewaro.

4. Dimensionsl Chen“e
E nensiens in inches U.S. Duck Philipnine Duck

_ - . Yarn Filling Ware :illih”

After 1 L l .?O l”.€01?332 16Q7§
‘ ' - fi’r A --r-
:Lf‘tE-.‘ 5 L 115.02’3 17088 1C).): 16.70
Change in inches

3:?tSJ‘ 1 L -103 ‘02 £032 -1025
Change in inches

{after 5 L -1064 -012 1103'.) '10}
Ifichehxe after

1 L -6.9 -1.1 /1.8 -5 9
L chsn3e after

5 L -g.1 -.66 #1.9 -7.2

The we rp of the Philiepine duck incr.1sed in len3th by
1.8f after one 1: un1erin 3with ne3lijible chan3e tierewiter
The sli3ht increa ise was due to stretching of the yarns after
the finish ha} been removei.

The filling of the Philiopine iuck shrank s si3nificent
6.93 and 7.2 eseectively after the first and fifth l eunierin,3s.
If this fabric is to be u -d as an spnerel material, this de3ree
of shrinkage must be te:en into consideration in terms of 33r-
ment size.

Warnwise, the U.S. clue"~ shrin; 5.C” in the first leunierin3
ans continued to shrink to a maximum of 9.15 after five laun-
derings. ihis a3ein is verv significant for annarel :ni-use.
The shrinkeje in the iirection CT the filling in th U.S. fluck
was 1 l) which 1 within the tolerance of 1 orized shrunk
"utrmntee. T19 width or fillin3 shrinka"r in the Philippine
duck was over 63 or six t‘n.s 3re1ter than the U.S. duck. On
the other hand, the U.S. due“ shnunh excessively in length and
the Philiebine duck dii net. Inasmuch as bo\ the U.S. eni

-27-

Philippine duck shrunk excessively in one direction

cutter should comeensste 10? this shrinlsge exeecte'

me-

..1

-t proeortions.

-23-

Summ%:£,an5 End-U895

 

The Philippine and U.e. ducts have comparable end uses--
that is both are used for water bucke.s, wading pools, ten s,
awnin3s, hamtochg overalls, werh pants, aprons coats, sla. L:s,

book covers, aid washable unif c:.s.

If these mater als were used as tent

on

, hammocks, awnings,
and loose leaf covers, the hi3h pe reente 3e of shrinha3e would
not he as significant as if the end~use was a marment in which
fit is important, Tents, he nmocks, awnings, etc., could be
taeated with oil or paint to control shrinkage but garments
could not be so treated.

If these materials were made into clothing the 7% filling-
wise shrinkage of the Philippine duck would be about 2 1/2 inc ie
for every ya'd add the 93 warewise erinca3e of the U.S. duck
would be about 3.2 inches for every and. One can ima3ine how
a garment would fit with this excessive shrinkage. Therefore,
adequate allowance in length and width shrinkaqe should ee made
for any garment made from either of these fabrics.

If the Philippine duck were made into pants for examele,
the 3reatest amount 0: shrinkage would be in the width. The
U. S. duCk, on the other hand, would shrink in length. The
U.S. duck would probably be the better of the two materials
to choose for work pants because it weuld be easier to provide
great ter allowance in len3th by a turn back cuff at the lower
edge and still maintain satisfactory preportion. To increase
width prepcrtion to compensate for 7% shrinkage could not be

r}

SUCCESSfully done i: shape and fit were imeortant in the style

would not be objectionable.

-29-

4.
.U0

0
i '5
(—1,-
H4
.J
(D
L }
C)
'3'
a
(D
:3

The tensile strength of

count,

duck both initially and aft er

better t1m.n the P nilipaine duck.

both moteri

twist, and dimensional chfla

als related to yarn

is in laundering. The U.S.

five launderinqs annears to be

In colorfe stness the U.S. material is not estecially 300d
t

because the

st to n

~

H,
9-3

color crooked on the white cloth and was no

ersniration. If this he

other colored fabric then the oleedin3 of color in laundering

Poor colorfastness in crocking,

,articul. rly when same conditions of use exist, as when a per-

son oercwlres freely, would probably discolor a white under-
3arment to an objectionable de3ree.

.)

QTT’ ." '

1.3;) _'_ ‘5 - x_..

,Z‘E‘x 7' [Ti

A '1") ‘7‘
:1__.Lh1

 

 

'Hiie Duck

 

 

'arp rilliat Worn Fillin3
l. X rn AnalySis
awn 'umber 7.59 1:.19 8 12.39

2 ply

 

e
wist 2
2. - bric analvsis
v _ . . .__ r—
‘ilts in inches gO.5 34.32
‘1 .

Weave
Wei3ht per
in ounces
Cri3inal
Ai* ter 1 L
Alt-GI" L
Ch7n3e n weight
after L
Cha nrje n 1181711:
after
Yarn Count

yard

FHJb

5'

.LJ

U] N

n_tcr l L
n1tel“ 5 L
Ch7n3e in
Salt-€31 l
Chan3e l

after 9 L
j chanse a

SOUQTO

'.\ \

'01 \f!
V) \ j (1‘)
O O

[D 03 (D

W\ ‘k. V\
s1 H
03 -3 D

fifibbl
l—‘I—‘N

I

O\O (A

9.61
10 o 04’
0.51

I

71.33

“.10

H)

K)! KM KN
-H 4::
O O

l O
4:—
\1\ \
kfl [0
C0 4:- 03 J:- O C\ R)

 

('7 1 ,- 'F.

a cnan3e alter

35 L 3/ .;8 3/lO.6 -.42 ‘/11.
3. Tensi e b oer3tn

after 5 L .
after 5 L wet
e- r

1
- 1

‘ qrj 1“, I‘- f‘,
O CIT-mu.-.- .C

HHHH

N§*\ W§*\

‘.
.

02) (h (h m

'3 (j) '01 -5:
O O

"\J\ I'D H {-4

C
o

x.“
.‘a

‘Jl
01th
I

m r

'1) ‘33 7’) (‘0
.;- I‘) ('3 ('3

I
kn~d

.2
K
o 3
h
o “r
(‘1
. V

#53 ED

 

5 L dry 3.3 -8.04 9 9.3

.. _ ,- _’

5 L we 45.0 _;.7 -l§.a 2.9
4. Colorfastness to:

Light
Persniration
Alkali
Acid
Laundry
Crockin3
Wet
Dry

0
F"
{D
U]

Class
Class
Class
0135 L3
Clars

{DWH H

ewe

fihite

7.73,‘ ' .L
i. [1L1 e
Y. ,1

‘l..Li L'e
”hits

'rw
”Glue

1T1 ite

J’s iydsq”s

Philinpine Duck

 

.3)

U.S. Duos
fern F111in~ Wano Fillingi
Dimensional Change
in inches
Original 18.00 18.00 18.00 18.00
After 1 L 16.70 17.80 18.32 16.75
After 5 L 16.36 17.88 8.35 6.70
Change in inches
after 1 L -1.5 - .2 % .52 -1.25
3 after 5 L -1.64 - .12 / .55 -1.5
7% change
after 1 L -6.9 -1.1 /1.8 -6.9
after 5 L -9.1 - .66 /1.9 -7.2

 

U.S. KHAII

 

iEILIPPIHE LKQKI

 

Knshi i: classi Ty one (S) as an army twill an; is

in meiium an: 1eav7 qualities. Yarn yarns which

a :1. r
lace hears most 01 the wear an_ a

r)

e stronger than the filling
rarns. The PLilipnine and U.S. khaki are ooth left- hani twill s.
The four-leaf twills are used toeay mostly for unifo OLms,
linings, hunt 1n 3 anfi working clothing,
dress uniforms, sum er slacks, trous erinr:;s ,boy scout clo fliing,

awninés, etc.

 

U.S. Khaki Philipnine Khaki

 

 

 

 

 

arn Anslvs is Warp Filling Warn Filling”
Yarn Iumoer 14.62 15.45 12.77 8. 6
Tvne of Yarn single sinnle si :le sinsle
Twist 19.6rs 18.513 18.9's 15.0

 

The finer yarns of the U.S. khaki ave the material a

In,

ine r texture as well as lifhter weight when comnarefl to the
Philicjine khaki in which . coarser yarnswereused.

As specified by Boys (6) the army shirting twill should
have an "S” twist for the warp and a "Z" twist for the filling.

Bot? materials have "S" twis. and sintle yarns for hoth warp

 

 

 

U.S. Khaki Philicrine Kh“"i
Fabric Analgsis Warp Fillin3 tar Ti‘illin"
a. Width in inches 440. 30.8

 

b.800st oer linear yi. 12.35 ;1.25
c. weave Twill Jwill
d.83ei3ht ner sq. yi.
in ounces (oriéinal) 8.72 9.75
e. Earn count Teri3inal)
114.4 8

 

 

 

k) \

.2 100.4 45.8

 

The cost per linear yard of the U.S. khaki is f1.lO
higher than the Ehilipain: khaki. Thuaccs. difference may be
due to a better quality o: yarn used in the U.S. material and
definitely lower labor cost in the Philioeines than in the
United States.

The Philienine khaki is narrower by 9" than the U.S.
k-aki because most Filieino men are smaller than the America s.

In most cas the garment cutter would be more particular of

(D
m

the lenéth than the width of the materials.
The standard Specification weight per sous re yard of the

army shirting twill according to Hoye (5) is oz. Both mater-

U]

ials are heavier than the iecification Ht ndard. This could
the coarser yarns used.
The ori3ina l yarn coun- of the Philipnine Khaki is aperoxi—

mately lOCy 4-5 and tLe U.S. khaki is 114 x 56. As conoared to

two materials are within the

}“.1
fr:
0
A
a,
(D
A
U1
v
r.-
I)
(D

cations o“

’40

the

(D

peci

standard which ranmes fr3m 58 x 42 to 108 x 52.

3. Tensile Strength

 

 

 

 

U.S. I_afii Philippine Leati
Tensile strergth Tarp Filling Warp Filling
in lbs.

Orifinal, drv 133.2 71.8 132.2 85.0
Grifnllfllt. 1J1 ”Gt 13902 9:1!‘08 ll2oO 9006'
The ori3inal dry and wet tensile stren3th relationship
of the warp of the two materials are comjarahle. The filling

of the Philippine ma.te‘. ial in or mi ginal wet tonsils strength
was 2.6 lbs higher than dry, whereas the U.S. khati's ori3inal

wet tensile strength was 7 lbs. lower than its dry tensile

H.
C .1
i—J
O
9
H
p,

strength. The lower wet strehath of the 1.0. mater

be accounted for by the fact t at the finisa on the faoric

-34.

prevented water absorption and the expected wet-dry strength
relationshii did not exist.

4. Colorfastncss.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colorfastness to: U.S. Khaki Philiggine Khak
a. Lisht Class 1 Class 1
b. Perspiration:
Alkali Class 3 Class 3
Acid Class 3 Class 3
0. Laundry Class 2 ______ Class 2
d. Crocking
Wet Class 4 Class 4
Dry Class 5 Class 4

 

A. gglorfastness to lidht - All class 1. Both materi-

“ Q‘flPOSUPe’
als did not show appreciable change in color after 10 hours in

A
the Fade-Ometer but showed some changes after 20 hours exoosure
and tore changes afte* 40 and 80 hours. Such materials could
not be exposed to light to dry. If either of these materials
were used in the Philiooines tLey would not give satisfactory
service because the heat of the sun in the Philipp nes is more
intense than in the United States, and most drying is done out
of doors.

B. Colorfastness to Persoiration—alkali and acid-
all class_§. 'Both fabrics are classified as class 3 in color-
fastness to perspiration so that both are expected to give
excellent service where resistance of color to normal per-
Spiration is important.

Since both materials could be used in army uniforms, work
clothes, overalls, sum er slacks, etc., this rating in perSpir-
ation test means that the materials would give an excellent

service for their end-uses.

I
\N
U‘I

I

E

C. Colorfastnes: to unldry - All class 2. Both
materials were able to stand the test in la u1r7r3r where the temper-

iis showed that both material

(I)

ature of the water was 120 F. T
were launderable in home and com ercial laundries previded t
tennerature does not exceed 120°F and the ma teriels are not
exposed to direct s 1nli_ j,ht when dried.

D. Colorfastness to Croctingedry and we.-a11 class 4.
Both materials did not show any appreciable discoloration on

the white cloth. Sued materials are considered fast to crochin"

and may be expected to give excellent service where resistance

1..

B. T3713" 3 DATI‘A E31“:- lIAL‘TQI AFTER 1 nTTD 5 LU JTTD‘IRI TC:

1. lXarn Count

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

U.S. Kha :i Philinnine Khaki
Yarn Count Warn Filling Ware Filling

After 1 L 115.5 56. 4 100.8 48.6
After 5 L 116.6 56. 8 101.3 48.6
Chzz1iae in count I

after 1 L 3/1.1 % .2 / .4 /2.8

afterAE L #2.2 3/T .6 _}'.9 3;2.8
fichange after '

1 L j .97 /.53 L18 [5.7

5 L i1.8 3/1.Oo yffi.88 3/5.?

go
I3

The thread count of both materials show: insignificant
increase in five 1aund.e1inas. There was also insignificant
shrin‘2age after the five launderings.

2. Weight_per Square Yard

 

 

 

 

 

Weight per square yard U.S. Khaki Philipjine Khak
in ounces
After 1 L 8.80 3,80
After 5 L 8.45 *_ 9.10
Change in weight
after 1 L 3/.08 /.05
after 5 L -.27 -.05

 

The slight increase in weight of the U.S. khaki after

one laundering can be accounted for by the pa1ticles of soap

that were not remeved, whereas the sliaht decrease in weight
of the Philiapine khaki after five launderings may be due to

the removal of the soluble sizin3.

 

3. Me.sile Strendth
0.3 Khaki Philioeine Lnak
Tensile strength Warn Filling Warp Filling

in lbs.
After 6 L dry 140.6 69.0 3 1 6 -__ oA.§
After 85 L,_wet__ __11Niwl6§e4_ 86i8 163.0 W .0

~—-_. . 9*—

Chaim in lbs.

after 5 L, dry 14

after 5 L, WGt ""
'7—chenge after

52' L). (116V 3 71
5 L:— Wit

 

 

 

 

 

After 6 laundering: the drv warn of tie Plilinnine khaki

increased in strength by 123. The U.S. LLaki incres sed by
1.73.
The dry filling of the P1111301_e material increased by

7.3% as compared to the orifiinal alter 6 le underir -5: , whereas
the filling of the U.S. naterial decreased by 3.91. The de-
crease in strength of the U.S. material mi3ht be accounted for

oy over bleaching during the process of manufacture, or loss

The wet filling of the Philipnine material increased in
strength by 8.31 after 6 launderingr,'whereas the U.S. fa ric
increased by 333. Although .here was no iusti fialle shrinkage
in the filling of the U.S. fabric the 33? incretse in the wet
tensile strength could oe accounted for by the higher varn

count over the Phili pacine fabric and the res oval of finish

which allowed more water abs 013tion.

-375.

 

 

 

 

 

4. Dimensional Change
U.S. hnahi Philipnine Khaki
Dimensions in inches aaro Filling, arp Filling
After 1 L 17.;2 18.10 18. 8 18.2
After_6 L 17.6 05 18.16 18.06 18.37
Change in inches '
after 1 L - .08 A .10 / .8 / .2

 

1 after 5 L - .54 ,1 .16 l .03 ,1 .37
3 change after
1 L - .5 _/.5 /4.4 /1.1
5 L -l.8 If .8 / .16 512.95
In both the fillins a d warn directions, the fhilinbine
material stretched. The wars of the Philisoine material stret-
ched by ..46 a fter one laundering which indicated that practi-
cally all the soluble finish was removed. It could be possible
that the quality of yarn and finish used were poor. The fil-
ling stretched a total of 26 in five laur de rings.
The 1.81 shrinka e of the wars in the U.S. fabric after
6 launderings, and .86 stretching in the fillin3 direction,
showed that a better finish and better quality of cotton yarn

was used for the U.S. fabric, and more dimensional s soility

than the Philipoine made fa sric .

H

Sumcary and uni-Uses

 

he end-uses of soth m? terials are the same for both
countries-~shoe linings, hunting ani work clothing, hnickers,
military uniforms, dress unifai ms, summer slacks, trouserings,
boy scout clothins, hats, awnings, etc.

In generzi 1, both Tateria ls seem to be strong enough for
tneir end- -uses. This is becaus: they are both twill weave and
twill weave permits the wearing o? more tireads to a squar
inch because of the fewer interla ings. For this reason
'Hingate (14) states .ha. twill woven materials are Stronger
than the plain woven ones.

q

Provided both usterials M19 li Lot b exsosei to Ci lect

(D

sunlight, they wouli crotahly give a

*“D
IL.
'3
(I)
( D
h;
<1
p
O
(I)
H,
O
S
p
O
(D
3
r-+
H
,5

'5

length of tir e as :ar as colorfastnsss to light :ni laundry
are concerned.
Both materials would render ex sllent service to sersnir-

atifin ani croc :lng

 

 

 

 

 

-39-
EJMHAEY TATLS - IZLTI
1T . S . K11" _-:i Philionine Ifiialti
Jar;__ Jillin“ 'arp Fillifig

l. Va.rn Analysis

Yarn nuniber 14.62 16.4r 12.77 8.6

Type of varn single sinéle sinfle single

TwiSt 19.6'8 lo.F's 8.9's 1?.3's
2. Fabric Analysis

Jidth in inches 40.0 30.8

Cost fier linear 42.35 31.25

Weave Twill Twill

Weight per square yani

in ounces
Original

8.72 9.75

After 1 L 8.80 9.80

After 5 L 8.45 9.70
Chan3e in wei5nt

after 1 L /.08 /.05

after 5 L -.27 ".05

 

“mljina 114.4 56.2 100.4 45.8
:fter 1 L 115.5 .55.4 100.8 48.5
After 5 L 115.6 56.8 101.5 48.6
Ch“n3e in ccun
after 1 L / 1.1 / .2 / .4 /2.8
after 5 L / 2.2 / .6 .9 /2.8
% change ter / / / /
L .97 035 038 5.7
5 L / 1.8 ‘/1.05 5/ .88 5/5.?
3. Tensile Stren3t h lbs.
Original, dry 138.2 71.8 132.2 88.0
Cri3inal, wet 169.2 64.8 142.0 90.6
After 5 L, dry 140.5 69.0 148.6 94.6
After 5 L, wet 155.4 85.8 165.0 98.0
Change in lbs. r
5 L, dry #2.5 -2.8 /16.4 /5.6
5 L, wet -5.8 /22.0 /21.0 {7.4
g chan3e after
5 L, dry /1.7 -5. 9 #12.0 7.5
5 L: wet -5.i:- {55. 0 /14.0 8.5

 

. Colorfastness
Li3ht
Perséiration

Alkali Class 3 Class 3

Acid Class 3 Class 3
Laundry Class 2 Class 2
Crockin3

Wet Class 4 Class 4

Dry Class 4 Class 4

to:

Class

H

C)
H
9.)
CO
to

H \Ck.

U.S. Khaki Philiosinc Khaki
A. ~ Warn Filling Wars Fillinq
5. Dimensional Change
in inches
Original 18.00 18.00 8.”? 8.00
After 1 L 17.92 18.10 8.8 18.2
After 5 L 17.65 18.16 18.03 18.37
Chan3e in inches
after 1 L - .08 / .10 / .8 / .2
after 5 L - .5 / .16 / .05 % .57
% change after
4 /1.1
l

1 L — ,5 /
5 L -1.8 % 6 /2.05

CDU'I

-41 “.-

 

~4la "

teC Cereals as a carded-rarn,
printed, smooth-finished fab ic usuaLly converted from standard

r and nrinting with desi3ns suitable

‘0
I_Jo
:“ J
C'”
O
H

+
3‘
Q
(g:
i)”
H
O
O
'3‘
l~’°
T3

C 2

for dresses, pafianas chiliren's wear, sportswear, etc. The
standard snecificatisns for aer cale ranges from 48 X 40, to

80 X 80 yarn count.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A. TEST DATA AND ANALYSIS CU QRIGINA FA"RICS
1. Earn Analysis
arn Analysis U.S. Percale Philin ne Percale
Warn Filling Warg_ Filling3
Vern number _30.1 _38.05 21.03 22.20
Type of yarn single sinale single single
Twist 18's 18.4'8 19's 22's

 

The yarn used in the U.S. nercale is size 30's for the
warp and 38's for the filling wt iich are finer yarns as compared
to the 20's used in the warp and filling 01 the Pailidjine
percale.

Both materials have "Z" twist intoth warp and filling yarns.

2. Fabric Anal.sis

 

U.S. Perc
Fabric Analysis Warp
Width in inches 37.8
Cost eer linea rgyard ,__.4,. .
Weave Plain P ain
2

 

WeL 5ht per souare v ‘rd
in ounces (ori3inal)3.2

Yarn count (0 ri3inal)
O5 70.6 50.0 55.2

\— ’4 .

A

The difference in width 0: the U.S . serc ale (5 wide» is

.0

licant but such difference may mean that it can

H0

not very sien

v

be cut to a bett r advanta

5)

()3

e.

.The U.S. percale is .09¢ hi3her in orice than the Philippine

#0

almost 5 lbs., when wet,

percale. SucL slight difference could be accounted for the

wider width of the U.S. fabric, better fiber quality and higher

3

cost 0: labor in the United states.

i-
13‘
(D

Philipéine material weighs 3.02 os. her square ya
which is lir'htl*r heavier than 3.22 oz. of the ’.S. raterial.
The Philippine percale has a varn count of SO x 52 and

th U. S. percale has a yarn count of 83 x 70. Both materials

Philioeine Percale
Warn Filling
41.0 29.9

H- 53

HP4

r'ensile str en3th in lhs. Ta
0 r 3 ~ '1 __113 .7 I .1 r}; -'-'-I« f
oii~in-i, net 54.

Wk)! '11 O
(a,
C
0 UV}?! (D
:j‘

K) I

The warn of the tw ffhrics were- stror3er than their

fi llin3 in the dry tensile strenstn. This is to be exnected

to facilitate t1: strain in weaving.

weeher by

.._\r-

The waro of the EDhili3 ine material beetm—

(D

{.4
3
1
JJ

8

'5
i

H

}__J

_ g, cotton is strenter
when wet. In this particular eis', the lower wet strenjth
would indicat: either 3 or qualit" o: Hib or over oleach
in tLe erocess of U‘lU““C ure of the Ph ili p3ine raterial. The
wet filling stren3th as slightlv hi her bv 1.3 lbs. .han dry

strength.

H , - — . '5 o 1 . C J- \ A D 4" ”01“
rue 4 103., ani 3 lbs. ers32ctivelw ni'eer Luz try steen3th.
Ia
*. , V 'r C1 7. .1. - . 1. 4.. - 4. - 3.0 J.
iia smuch as the J.o. J90 stren3th s stron3er is in icates

that a better oualitv cotton nav ha.ve been usel than that used
A v V --.-

in the Philipoine fabric.

1e

4
-4

H

Pcrc

 

re
1
J.

.n _\-‘|
'-~

0 ~ ~
lv-' " ‘

CW

 

 

 

 

Cole

#4.

S
a

flu

S
D

a

e

hanfe

4v
hence
and

tion
would

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h
L.

color-

 

le 0
color an

O

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u.
4‘

.stness

q

dhbin

;

.39
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0

A

removew
brics

in
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43,.
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no

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not

 

~~w~rx
‘I..

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the

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in

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Went
reg

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er.

1
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11

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LA

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__ _¢-.4 -___.»

i-01.

—\v

e UH?

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f
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9-‘
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-._ .. -O..-.—~...—~-— -- ._

3,. 17“,“
I

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C UH

olo
cane

1
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LA

 

 

 

f"
v

cg
lip_

.-

i

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.

 

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I

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cid

'f‘ "3: ‘nv

7" ".'*_d. .-.. - _. .-
1'31

-|-

 

.._4
oc

, .

41
I? V
.._JLJ
fl ‘1
U L
1 _

T

L

('11
color,

 

c
i.

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e _

C,

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f

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L441

SLOW

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ate

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iq

T7

 

 

‘hilio

O

The

‘3

Such materi-

m 4
LL
:1

'I'

the

stoininm of

le

Direciab

7'1 ‘-
g. V:

in color 0

n;

.. 13.12..

".0

l

Ho
('0

considered launderable at lukewarm temperatures and

}.._J

shou d not be dried outdoors

The U.S. material, after it was sue
wherein the tem2c erCture of the water was only 105 F, showed
both a change in color and stained the white cloth. Such
material is consioered not launderable. Under soe cial condi-
-ions however, it may be laundered, but some change in color
is to be expectea.

Both materials a;e rated as poor in l"unler"Oi ity.

D. Colorfa tness to Greeting: Philineine-wet and
dry—01.80; U.S.-wet Cl. 1, dry Cl. 4.

In the dry an; wet crockin3 tests the Phili2 ine material
stained the white clot. and the hiscoloration was not removed
after rubbin;3 it with soap and water. The material is not
considered last to crockin3 and materials coming in contact

with them lay be exeected to discol

O

l".

J

The U.S. material grielded a discoloration on the white
cloth en the wet test which was not removed when washed with

\

soap and water. This means that it would not be satisfactory

)

if it came in contact with white or li3ht colore- material.

In the dry crocl :in3 test it did not show any apireciable change,

out that limits it‘s serviceability under actual coniitions of

 

 

use.
B. TEST “ATA are “7"VS ‘VMZI l AUDAS L.JTIHHIJGS
l. Ya;n Cour t
U.S. Percale Philippine Percale
I "n Count ” :3 Filling "Ware Fillin3_

 

After 1 L 88.2 71.6 57.2 55. 8
31 After 5 L 93.2 ' 83.0 58.‘ o0. O
Chan3e in count

after 1 L £4.4 /l.O -l.8 /l.6

}\

 

-45-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

l. Yarn Count (cont.)
m . .
U.S. Percale Philitoine Percale
Yarn connt Ware Filling Ware Filling
a chan n3e after '
5 L 3213,? ,fl20.3 -1.06 ,{8. .6
The 8.5/ increase in the fillin3 (/fi.8 yarns) 01 the Phili-
Loine material is related to the 5X shrinkage on the wane after
5 leunie erin3s. The 1.06% decrease in the warp ( .o yarn) is
insi3nificant.
The warp and filling COUHU of the U.Sx fabric increased
by almost 14% (/11.4 yarns) and 20$ (/15. 4 yarns) respectively
after 5 aunderinrs. This increase in yarn count is the result
of the aiiroximately 2.51 and 4.5fi shrinha3e of the warp and
fillin3 rosoectively ”tor tne 5 laun'erirss, ans lo 01 soluble
sizin3.
2. Weight Per Square Yard
Weight per square U.S. Percale Philipsine Percale
yard in ounces
After 1 L 2.99 4.26
After35 L 2.80 3.88
Chan3e in_weight
after 1 L -.23 /.34
after 5 L 42 - 05
The loss of weight after the 5th laundry in both fabrics
can be accounted for by lo."n in lini and soluble sizing.
3. Tensile Strength
U.S. Percale Philinoine Percale
Tensile strength in lbs. Warp Filling Warp Fillin33
After 5 L-dry 39.6 20.6 52.6 27.0
After; L-wet 43.0 29.4 31.2 28.6
Chaneej in lbs. after
~a fl change after

 

the U.S. fabr

-45-

After 5 launderin 53 the dry ware strength of the Phili-
ppine percale was 505 lower as compared to the 207 lore 02‘ 8'9
the U.S. pereale. This could be accounted for by the over
bleachin3 during the process of manufacture a-d the loss of
sizin3 as well as comparative lower warp yarn count in the
two fabrics.

Loss in strength of the dry filling of the U.S. oereale
after 5 launderin3s was 527 or five times as 3reat as in the

Phili2éine pereale. This is very hi3h and it would indicate

over ble chins or a lwloC ori"iral strergth ”us to sizing.

The wet Ht 2en3th of doth the warp and filling yarns in

(O

}_k

(-4

4a. ‘9. than dry strength, both initially

C

LO
C?
e
I
J
H“
J
3

and after 5 l2u1iderin3s, which is to be exceeted of cotton--

higher wet stren3th is to be exneeted of 3ood quality cotton.

3
. }
rt
5‘
O

f the fillino; VG 72118 Of the P‘1ili‘321ne

., .; "‘~

The wet stre: 5

he“ initially and after 5 launderings. The higher

(-3.15?) shrinkaje in tne ware account for the less strength

 

 

 

 

 

 

U.S. Percale Philiooine Percale
Dimensions in inches Ware Fillin3, Ware Pil’.inm
after 1 L 17.80 17.55 17.17 1 .25
Af er 5 L 17.55 17.1 17.07 .mlfiififinlm
Change in noise

 

 

 

 

i
after 1 L -1.2 - .6 g .25
al‘te 3 L - .“7 -l.8 -l.C fri'a‘i
/,50han3e after
1 L . —:5.6 -3.7 -"!!.6 111.3 __
5 L -2T€* -a.7 —5.15 j?2.5
Because of the 5; cmrioxade in the warp of the Philiooine

fahric after 5 launderings, the fillin; yarns became more com-

oact (/8.6?) and eomoensated loss in strength.

‘3'.

The warp of the PLiliopine fabric shrunk .y over f where-

d be entirely satisfactory in maihtaining aarmont

size and fit. Comoensation for potential shriikaje should be

1.11

taken into account before being ma

[.1-

e -nto a Carment, unless

bl

‘

the user ere-shrunk the fabric before cutting.

~48-

Sumrary and End-U803

 

Desnite the difference in culture of the two countries,
the percale material have the same endeuses, that is--it
could be made into dresses, pajamas, children's wear, Sports-
wear, etc.

In general, the U.S. percale is sueerior in quality to
the Philiopine percale as shown by the higher yarn count, higher
yarn number, and higher tensile strength.

Both materials showed similar but relatively poor per-
formance in laundering and colorfastness. The excessive shrink-
age of both fabrics will result in unsatisfactory service to
the consumer unless they were ere-shrunk before sewing. The
pre—shrinking won't even be a guarantee against further shrink-
age because cotton often continues to shrink progressively

o I-
through fifteenpmore launderings. However, the ”reatest shrink-
age would occur within the first 5 launderings.

The two materials did not give a satisfactory result in
colorfastness. Although the Philippine material did not show
any apsreciable change after 40 hours exuosure to light, it
still could not be considered satisfactory in service because
it faded in the perspiration test. In a warm country 1 he the
Philipnines where peonle nersoire most of the time, the material

should be fast to nersniration as well as to light. The resis-

‘J

U

\

tance of the Philionine material to light mvy se of satisfactory
quality 'or this particular case, but in general, it cannot
be rated as in resistance to liyht fading.

The two materials could be worn satisfactorily if they

-40-

were made into sleeping garmen

childrenls vuxrr or snortswearu

Q
'L/ ’

but unsatisfactory for

_50—

or 11‘- . 1W mAfi 'D
-QJA.;A’:1-~.h mA—L L‘JLai: - u;— .SJR

(3

L"
A. IL:

 

. ‘ U. S. Percale Philissine Percale

Warn Filline Warn Filling,

 

l. Yarn Analysis
Yarn number a
Type of yarn

, .l 38.05 21.09 23.2
s
Twist l

ngle single single single
's 18.4's 10's 22'

 

2. Fabric Analysis
Width in inches 37.8 32.65
Cost per linear yd. .4€¢ .40¢
Weave Plain Plain
Weight per square .

yard in ounces 3.22 3.92
(original)
After 1 L 2 0
After 5 L 2 0
Change in weight
After 1 L " 023
After 5 L - . 2
Yarn count
Original
fter 1 L
After 5 L
Change in count
After 1 L
After 5 L
5 change after

,1
,1
1L ,1
,z

0 O 0
[DDJOD
,«J

H

C

ox
OVflkfl

#- H O Ox “-J1

\O CO Cf)
U1 OOKJJ

l

O\OD ooox 000m

33*. W<*\

COR.)

5 L
3. Tensile Strength i
Original, dry
Original, wet
After 5 L, dry
After 5 L, wet
Change in lbs.
After 5 L, dry
After 5 L, wet
5 change after
5 L, dry
5*, 5 L, wet —24.0 —l0.0 -24.0
. Colorfastness to:
Light Class 2
Perspiration
Alkali Class 0
Acid Class 0 Cl
Laundry Class 2 Cla
l
4

l

O o o o 0‘. o
43'“) OO\»P'C0C0\]I\_3 -P'vl>
I?
l—J
o
O
“Drown?

C0'\]\OC3
o o o o
U\O‘OO\

#‘WUT {>-
O K)! \O #40 HWUW l-‘ J:

I I I
[0 FH4
O H
O O 0
.p
I I
W H
[D O
O O
O O
I l
\N I-J
O 04>-
. O
W \J
I I
Jr m I--I I-J
hQUI \NO\

4

Cl
1...]
$1)
(I)
(D

O
H

pgu
moam
mm

J
U.)

Crocking
wet Class
dry Class
5. Dimensional Change in inches
Original 18.0 18.0. 18.0 18.
1‘ After 1 L 16.80 17.33 17.17 8.2
After 5 L 17.53 17.15 17.07 18..8

Class
Class

00 HI—‘H KN

-51-

 

U.S. Percale Philiaaine Percale
Warp Filling Ware Filling
5. Dimensional change in inches (cont.y'

Change in inches
After 1 L 1.2 - .67 - .83 / .25
After 5 L .47 - 1.85 — 1.93 / .48

5 change after '
1 L 6.6 - 3.7 - 4.6 / 1.5
5 L 2.6 - 4.7 - 5.15 ¥ 2.5

 

U.S. SAIL CLOTH

 

PHILIPPI

 

 

E SAIL CLOTH

IV. SAIL CLOTH

 

a
O
F ‘2)
Ho
:3
i .1.
(4’
lg}.
O
:3

g (5) and Carmichael's (3)

f0 . . .3. 7"
Alter readin: noye

of sail cloth, the writer found that the ail clo th

C
(I)
(D
:1
Ho

I1

scribed

(1..
CD

this stu2y :0 not conform to the standard sail cloth

by them. Both authors, Hoye an; Carmichael, cl-ssify the mat-

(D

-ria l as a duck with combed single—y2rn hi2h count cloth.
Since ~he United States and Philincine mate i2ls do not conform

them on tLeir res-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

to these sta:aa:ds, the writer will comoa re
pective phvs1cal or cteristics onlw.
A. 12533 UAil A‘? A 1135 s C" _i*”I:AL “i“‘TCS
l. Larn Analysis
7' ’ n ' '. " ‘ a 4'
d.e. Umll Cloth Philin2«rc oail Cloth
Yarn Analysis ”are Filling, Warn F111113
7 - M2 C‘ ’ 1- .. -...- W...—
IELC:L“-_ FLH’DQP 2:00 (“>007 L307 {Bog
Tvne of Yarn Sinale sintle sinrle sinfile
"" , " ’ "““" ""“““.‘.‘"” _, ’“g _

 

1 3
(I)

*“n
F"
H
I...J
I...»
:5

{ 1’3

0

.3.‘
O
(—+
'3‘
r+
C.‘
(J

o

l )1
*d
E;
H
H‘
d

Q

P.
{:5

(D

F}

"0

{a}.
(D

*5

1.1.
Q)

H
U)

aL.
are the same, site 8. The w22o of the U.S. material is a-m st
five times finer than the tarp of the 1hilio ine sail cloth,
and has a corieloonvi=qu hijher yarn count.

Both the U.S. and the Philipsine materials have ”2" twist
in the war) and filling ya2ns. The U.S. cloth has a hijher
twist per inch (W-22's; F 14's) than the Philiosine fabric,

(H—13's; F 15's). The difference in twist and yarn count is

 

 

2. Fabric m21v2‘ s
U.S. Sail Cloth Philiopine Sail Cloth
Patric Analysis Harp Filling_ Tarn Filling
f dth 1n incaes 35.4 33.
C at her linear yC. 5 ¢

yd. in ounces
(0 rifinal) 5.12 3.43
Yarn count (orie

-L:

\O H'
0

i5
0

[0

(A

O

O

’ 41.6

The difference in the price of the the materials is insig-
nificant. lhe di2:erence in width of the two materials is cnly
2", butihat slijht difference may mean 1t can he cut to better
advahtaye.

The Philippine material is slightlr heavier by 1.3 oz.
than the U.S. material inasmuch as coarser yarns are used in
the Philicpine mate erial.

The we r3 count of the U. S. sail cloth is 453 higher than
the Philip nine sail cloth. The ye urns used in the Philippine
materia 1 2re very much coarser, size 7, as compared to the

size 29 of the U.S. material.

 

 

 

 

3. Tensile Strength
. U.S. Sail Cloth Philin2ine Sail Cloth
Tensile Strength in lbs. Taro Filling Warp Filling_
Original, dry 32.6 71.0 50.8 73.2
Original, wet 41.0 85.4 57.4 92.4

 

‘4
(O

In these particular materia the filling2 are very much
stronger th2n the war; which is contrary to the usual practice
in wee ving. Warp yarns are usually stronger, and the yarn count
is usually higher than the filling. Howev 2, the fill in n3 yarns
used in these two materials are much coarser and the thread count
is higher than the warps. For some end-uses tLis might be of
advantage. The imee lance in war3 and filling strength is very
poor in the U.S. fabric.

suite the fact that the U.S. material had higher yarn

count than the we rp, tne Philicuine material was stronger in

could be accounted

(I)

both wet and dry on the original tests. Thi

for by the coarser v2 -rns 02 the Philipuine material.

0

r

The fillings of bothnaterials are comparable in st ength

,3

-g4-

in both wet and dry determ 1 tions. In both materials the
original wet tensile strength is stron3er than dry which is
t3 be expected of cotton according to Wingate (l4).

4. Colorfastness

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Colorfrstnes to: U.S. Sail Cloth Philionins Sail Cloth
l. Li5htS Class 1 C ass 1
2. Perspiration
Alkali Class 1 Class 1
Acid Class 3 Class 2
3. Laundry ‘ Clas 2 Class l_
4. Croching
met Class 0 Class 2
Dry Clas O Clas: 4
A. Colorfastness to Light-All Class 1. Both mat-

 

erials did not sLo : any appreciable cha n3e in color after 10
hours exposure to light, out Lio-eciable chan3 after 2L n urs
exsosure, aid progressive change in color after 40 and 80 hours
exposure. These materials are unsatisfactory. Ihen fas tness

to li3ht is important.

B. Colorfastness to
ass

ira tion-Alkali, All Class 1;
ACidLU.-S. 1

Fe ms
53, Pr‘. liopine Class 2._

 

 

(a) Alkali. Neither material showed
any appreciaole chm 3»e in color but yielded discoloration on
the white cloth. The discoloration was not removed after
scrubbing with soap and water. When materials come in contact
with white or any light colored cloth, it will stain the white

cloth and such stain won't be removed with soap and water.

,1):
{JJ

(b) Acid. The Phi in ine material 1 not show anv

 

anoreciable change in color but an -poreciable sto inin3 of the
test cloth,which disaooeareu after scrubbing with soap and water.
When such material hajoens to stain a white or colored cloth,

‘

the stain could oe remove d by soao and water.

The U.S. material did not show any apareciable change in
color or appreciable sta : nin3 on the white cloth. This material
may be exeected to 3iv an ex ellent service n'here re Ms stance
of the color to normal perseiration is imeOPt nt.

C. Colorfsstness to Laundry—Philiooine, Class 1;
U.S.,Clc.ss 2.

 

After the Philippine nateriel was subjected to test No. 1
there was no as. preci-ble c‘13n3e in color, neither did it stain
the white cloth. Such material is considered launderable in
lul: eW9rm water with no alkali or chlorine present, but it could
not be dried under the heat of the sun.

After the U.S. rateria was subjected to test Ito. 2, it
did not show any ap_areciable change in color, nor did it stain
the piece of white cloth. Such material is considered launder-

" D

ries under cer eiul metha_ds

(J:

able in home or com ercial laun
where the water temperature does not exceed 1200? and when no
alkali or chlorine is oresent. The :aterial should not be dried
under surlight.

The U.S. material has a better rating in colo r19 stness
in laundering because it was not able to stand the severe tes.
No. 2. It can sta-d iarder laundering than the Philineine fabric.

D. Colorfa
Dry-613. u

’D

tness to Crockinfi-Philieeine, fiet- Class 2;
s ; ” et-Llass O and Dry Class O.

S’)

u«

Wet. The Phi lip 11118 material yielder a discoloration on

 

1

the white cloth out disaooeared after it was scrubbed with soap
RLQ water. Such material when wet would show some discoloration
on white cloth, but the discoloration would be removed with

soap and water.

.N

931. The Thilippine material did not appreciably dis—
color the wiite cloth. Such metecial will be considered last
to crochin3 when dry, and may be expected to give excellent
service where croching is important.

The U.S. material is Class O in both dry and wet tests.

It yielded

.3
( 1
;..
(’3
O
U
}_..|
O
'3'
rJ
r-+
l-’
O
:3
U
:5
('1‘
I
(D
3
’40
FF
(1)
O
I
O
r ’r
B
6

J
0
DJ
‘:J
I J
L2;
L3
0
,4.

disappear after scrubbing with soap and water. This material
would stain any white or liiht colored fa ric th9t it might

happen to rub and tLe stain won't be removed with soap and

B. TEST DATA AND fiPiLTv XFTER l 133 5 L.J7333T“C"

l. Yarn Count

 

Dhilipnine Sail Cloth
Warn Filling
{941.2

27.L LL. 6

$1:
1'

Ln

F" }‘J
H (7+

OOl—‘O
h)

Yarn Count War,
After 1 L LO .0
After 5 L L8.L
Chanfie in count

After 1 L 3 O

lkf'ter 5 L " .6 o
p cha 3e after

1 L . o f .

5 L -l.L f6.6 .J.

N"

-... .__.
n .

ii
m1m+¢c3

O 1

\J .

EV

O
-

 

711.4

[0

r
O

(

CD

11
J
j
41.

k:
'3
N\

O

,1

O U!
O\ Ch

b4
UHU oCh

JJ

The yarn count of the ,-ili:“ine matef.'ial incre9sed sli3htly

5

after five launde1in3s bdfiiwarpwise and i

0 'V I u ..
"“"'.".-7‘ (‘_ ac: “ " t
1:— J..'.J JILL-'0, MAJ Allitr—.’L1

.7

be expected with the skirinkage of over 3

5 in the warp, a-d 1%
in the filling.

The increase in filling yarn count of the U.S. material
after 5 launderin3s relates to the 5% shrinkage in tLe warp.

2. Weiaht Per Souare Yard

Weisht per square vn. in ounces U.S. Sail Cloth Philipoine Sail
Cl-O uh

 

r: f f' ‘7
.‘b. O ‘D.j/)

 

-010

L

L L.78 5.68
n ' .

n -.BL /}25

Hi
“D
F}
131—3

fif”
(DC:
’3'”:
Ull-J
17“?"
0
$-

"‘b l— b

,—
--‘\ F4

The very sli3ht increase in weight of the Philippine
material after 5 launlerin3s could beeccounted for by shrinkage,
whereas the verysflijht decrease in weight .f the U.S. material

could bedue to the loss of soluble sizin or fiber loss.

{J}

3. Tensile Strength

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

U.S. Sail Cloth Philippine :ail Cloth
Tensile strerrth in lbs. Warp Filling» Warp Filling,

After 5 L,Adry 27.0 71.0 L5.2 63.6
After 5 L1 wet 35.0 78.8 53.4 83.6
Change in lbs. after

5 L, dry -5.6 - .L -5.6 -9.6

5 L, we. -6.0 -L.6fi -L.0 -3.8
Zc‘ang e after

§_L, dry -l7.0 - .5 -l2.l -l§.0

5_L. wet —lL.0 5 ~5.9 -L.l

t

Both materials have a lower dr
the 5 launderil3s in both warp and filling, fue to lo»s of
sizing. Loss of strength due to launderinc was comparable for
the two fc abrics. The Ph .111? pine fa oric had better balance in

stren3th than the U.S. fabric.

 

U.S. Sail Cloth Philippine Sail Cloth

 

 

 

Dimensions in inches Warp Filling Warp Filling
A“ter l L 17.15 18.10 17.55 17.6”
After 5 L 15:95, lB.L5 17.45 17.82
Change in inches

After 1 L - .85 ,1 .10 - .45 - .34
After 5 L -l.05 3/’.45 - :55 - .18
p change after
1 L —L.z J .55 ~35 -l.8
5 L L508 /2oi "3005 -100
.The warn of the Philippine fabric has a significant
shrinba3e of 2.5; after one laundering ans Bi after 5 lau
The filling has less than 23 shrinhaje. If .his fabric were

made into a garment encu3h allowance should be allowed on the

.1.- 1. -M
Lirection for snrinha,e.

.4
H
g:
"S
d
t )1

-58...

Fillincwise, the U.S. fabric stretched by 2.55 after

5 launderings. The stretcnin3 could be accounted for by the

H
O
U)
m
0
H)
}—b
H.
:15
PJ.
{0
{If
9-3
H)
H-
(D
*3
U.)
(I)
<:
CD
9
H
H
:3
g;
{5
{.111
(D
'“3
1J-
:3
(/7.
U)
C
i 3
(D
a
’5
(3
:SJ
f“
(O
} J.
3
{3
H
|

ficant shrincage of Bfif'which the consumer would have to take
into consideration before cutting the material into a garment.
Pre-shrinhing before sewing would give the consumer better
satisfaction, but it is doubtful if nre-shrinhinc would con-

nensate for the potential shrinkage which would occur in reptr

titive launderings.

ens

-IJ.. ‘_

r4
gunner;

 

Alt r"1’” tLe Philiesine material had a much lower taread
count in its war~ as compared to the U.S. fabric, the PLilippine
material was about 35$ stronger than the U.S. .ate” al. This
is due to the coarser yarns used in the Philipvine fabri .
The tensile t1e_3th of the fillin"s of both materials was
1ract“cally t}. some because of tse similarity 1n yacn size.

BotL materials showed si3nificantlv ei3h shrinkage in
the warewise direction, Bfif for Philiprine, nHC 51+‘fo; the
U.S. fabric. The consumer would 3st none satis1action if
enou31 l owsnce for 2L1 in:a3e n th warpwise direction of
tLe fabri s wer naie in addition to prs-shrinkinh the fabric
befe 6 cutting.

Both

“10
--.L~

terials are unsatisfactory in colorfastn

J-

perf 11 ance in colorfastness to 1i3ht and nersbiration tests
indicat:d that these materials would not be practical to use
in a "arrest ior sailv wear and which would require frsouent

launde'ings. These fabrics would nrobably 3ive .ooo service
as gitcren curtains because curtains are washed less often
than garreats. are Must be usea in vasLin3 and irmin3, washin3
in warm ater and ot drie: directly in the sun.

These materials would not be ver" “rectical to use in a
warm country like tho Philinaines.

SAIL CLCTH

PHILIPPIHE SAIL CLOTH
Warp Fillingfl

S . CLOTH

p Filling,

1. Yarn Analysis
Yarn number
Type of yarn
Twist

8.2
single
15.3'3

8007
single
14.5'3

6.7
single
13.3'8

 

2. Fabric Analysis
Width in inches
Cost per linear yd.
Weave
Weight per square

yd. in ounces
Original
After 1 L
After 5 L
Change in weight
After 1 L
After 5 L

Yarn Count
Original
After 1 L 49.0
After 5 L 48.4
Change in count

After 1 L
After 5 L
% change after
1 L 0
53L -l.4
Tensile Strength in 1
Original, dry 32.6
Original, wet 41.0
After 5 L,dry 27.0
After 5 L,wet 35.0
Chan3e in lbs.
after 5 L
wet
after 5 L
dry
change after
5 L, wet -14.0

Colorfastness to:
Light
Perspiration:

Alkali

ACld
Laundry
Crocking

wet

dgy

49.0

0
“'06

30

-'500

-5.6

5.

713.0

o
,/6.6

bs.

Class

Class
Clas

71.0
83.4
71.0
78.8

-4.6_

-.4

{1101

I
CC) IUKNF’ F4 Ln

N [O D.)
'\] O.) Ch

[—1

as 1“

UWU'I
“fl-\IO

#M—P'CD OK)! CID-b 41-01%

in
\N
O

l I
U1 3'
O\ O

’12.].

l
0
Co

33.3
.58
Plain

6.43

0.33
6.68

-010

/.25

Class

Class
Class
Class

Class
Class

95

am HNH H

-61-

 

U.S. SAIL CLOTH PHILIPPIPE SAIL CLOTH
Warp Filling Warp Filling
5. Dimensional Chan3e in Inches

Original 18.0 18.0 18.0 18.0
After 1 L 17.15 18.10 17.55 17.66
After 5 L 16.95 18.45 17.45 17.82
Change in inches

After 1 L - .85 / .1o - .45 - .54

After 5 L -l.O5 f .45 - .55 - .18
5 change after

1 L -4.7 / .55 -2.5 -1.8

5 L -5.8x /2.5 -5.05 -1.0

-52-
CFAPTWP V

SUVNARY AVD CCTCLUSICYS

The duck, {haki, and percale fabrics produced in the
United States and in the Philippines conformed to the standard
specifications in yarn count and yarn number. Since the sail
cloths do not fall within the standard description, they were
compared only in their thSical characteristics and performance.

In almost all of the performance tests, the U.S. fabrics
rated better than the fabrics produced in the Philippines.

Except for the sail cloth, the tensile strength of the
American-made fabrics were very much stronger than the Philip-
pine—made fabrics. This was because of the higher yarn count,
twist, and better quality of fiber used in the American-made
fabrics. The higher tensile strength of the Philippine sail
cloth was due to the coarser, heavier yarn used in its cons-
truction.

The high percentage of shrinkage in the U.S. and Philippine
duck would be unsatisfactory where dimensional change was impor-
tant. however, of the two fabrics the U.S. material would pro-
bably be the better one to use for garments despite its higher
price, because the warpwise shrinkage is easier to compensate
than fillingwise shrinkage which was excessive in duck. The
Philippine khaki stretched 4.4% in warp and 2.051 in the filling.
The U.S. khaki shrank only 1.84 in the warp and stretched slinhtly
in the fillinfi. The U.S. khaki material had a better finish and
better quality yarns than the Philippine material. The more than

5% shrinkage of the warp of the Philiniine percaleand the 4.71

’W

shrinkage of the U.S. percale, is excessive. Both materials
have poor shrinkage performance and poor finish because both
became so limp after 5 launie erinfis.
Generally, the four materials, duck, khaki, percale, and

ail cloth, had a very poor rating in colorfas tnes s to light,
except for the Philiopine percale which resistei the #0 hour
exposure. The rest were able to resist only 10 hours of ex-
posure in the Fade-Ometer. Those materials would not be prac-
tice l to use in the Philippines since the heat of the sun there
is more intense titan here Since the Philippines has a warm
climate, and one could not avoid perspiring , the poor rating
of colorfastness to perSpiration of these materials showed that
they are not practical for use there.

The duck and khaki of the U. S. and Philippines rat ed as

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uniry test provided the temperature of the water

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.cesd 120 F. This won't give assurance of colorfast-

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ness because clothes are usually dried outside in the Philippines,
and neither material was 0010 rfast to light. The percale fabrics
from both countries rated very poor in colorfastness in launder-
ing. The U.S. sail cloth withstood har- er la underin" than the
sail Cloth produced in the Philippines.

Except for the k aki, all the materials showed poor per-
formance in crocking of color. These materials would not be
satisfactorw for wear in thdhot climate of the Philippines.

In C:enera l, the U.S. materials had better over-all per-
formance qualities than the Philippine fabrics. This might
have been expected because of the modern methods of manufacture

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and excellent materials available in the United States. However,

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the lessA performance qualities of the Philippine fabrics may

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challenge the Nationa Development Company of the Philippines

to impsove and upgrade their product if they want to expand-

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their market. while it is true that the Philippine government
has quite strict regulations on imported sooas and has placed

a high tariff on fabrics, the government could not entirely

blame her peOple i

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superior wear and serviceabilitg.
One of the objectives in this study was to be able to
teach textile buymanship more intelligently. The writer feels

that she learned much from this study and feels more self-

confident, if given the Opportunity to teach textiles.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

1h.

-65-
.BIBLIQQBAEHX

American Society for Testing Materials, Committee D-l3
on Textile Materials, Philadelphia 3, Pa., (1955)

Carmichael. “-13- et a1. WW. lat
ed., Georgia; Callewey Mills.

Harris. M09 WW let ed. Washington.
D.C., Harris Research Laboratories, Inc. (1954)

Hess. K.P-. W. 5th ed.. New York;
J.B. Lippincott Co.

Hoye, J., §t§p19_ggttnn_fig¥nigfi, lst ed. New York; McGraw
Hill Book Company, Inc. 19“2)

Hoye, J., tt F b 2nd. Ode.
New York, Maspeth, L.I.

Kaswell. 13.3.. Win... New fork
36; Reinhold Publishing Corporatinn (1953)

Lee, J.S., W New Iork; Prentice Hall,
Inc., (1953

Mausrsborser. 11.8.. W. 6th ed. New
York, John Wiley and Sons, Inc.

Saddler, J. and Hollen, N.,.ngtilg§. New York; The
McMillan Company, New ybtssy

Skinkle, J.H., ngtilg_2g§§1ng, 2nd. ed. rev., Brooklyn;
Chemical Publishing Company, Inc.

Textile - Testing and Reporting, 0.8. 59-##, washington,
D.C., United States Government Printing Office (19hh)

The United States Institute for Textile Research, Inc.,

Textilg_flg§§azgh, A Survey of Progress; Cambridge, Mess.,
Institute of Technology (1932).

Wingate, 1.3. , ' 4th.
ed., Englewood Cliffs; Prentice—Hall, ncorporsted (1955)

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