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6/01 cJCIRC/DaieDuepGS—sz

 

MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY
COLLEGE OF HOE’IE ECOE‘QGF-FECS

EAST LAE‘ESHJS, i‘riiCiiEG5‘fi1

1/4 CURRICULUH.PLAN FOR AN ADVANCED
TEXTILES COURSE /

By
Shirley A. Randall

0’

A PROBLEM

Submitted to
Michigan State University
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts
1968

EELKSI'
I3 :2-
6 a «3

7H3

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Deepest gratitude is extended to Mrs. Barbara
Amundsen for her guidance in the research and.writing
of this problem.

Sincere appreciation is given to Dr. Mary
Gephart, Dr. Elinor Nugent, Dr. Gertrude Nygren and
Robert Bullard for serving as members of her graduate
committee.

Finally, the author is grateful for the continued
encouragement expressed by her family throughout the
preparation of this study.

11

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER

I. INTRODUCTION
Statement of the Problem

Methodology
Literature Review

II. DEVELOPMENT OF THE COURSE

Rationale
Goals and Objectives
Lecture and Laboratory Topics

III. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

BIBLIOGRAPHY

iii

Page

\n¥?h‘

19
20
22

29

31

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION

Statement of the Problem

Appointment to the home economics staff at Wisconsin
State University, Stevens Point, Wisconsin, in the capacity
of instructor in textiles provided the author with.the incen-
tive for this study. One of the responsibilities of this
position is the development of a second term.advanced
textiles course to be offered for the first time the second
semester of the 1968-69 school year.

Ideally a textile laboratory is designed after the ob-
Jectives and purposes of student experiences have been
clearly identified. However, in reality this is not the
situation at Stevens Point. Extensive testing equipment
for a textile laboratory was obtained under a government
grant prior to the author's involvement.

The purpose of this problem.is to develop a curriculum
plan for an advanced course taking full advantage of the
existing equipment and space.

The deveIOpment of a curriculum for an advanced textiles
course requires an understanding of the importance of textiles
in today's society. Education serves as a basis for decision

making by producing behavioral changes which help students

and families in making satisfactory choices. Our rapidly
changing society requires individuals capable of making
these decisions and the adjustments needed to live in such
a society.

Inclusion of an advanced textiles course in.the home
economics curriculum at Wisconsin State University has
Justification. Textiles play a major role in making
possible the patterns of living for today's families.

Without the new fibers and minimum care fabrics which.have
been created as a result of textile knowledge, present
patterns of living would be vastly different.

With the ever-increasing number of textile fibers which
are used in fabrics for wearing apparel and household textiles,
it is becoming more significant to have information on fibers
in order to choose wisely from the many different fabrics
available. Along with the beauty of textiles for clothing
and surroundings, serviceability and suitability are factors
to be considered. The values of all peOple are not identical.
While some may select fabrics for beauty, others are concerned
with dirability and suitability. A knowledge of fabric structure
and its relation to function enables more intelligent prediction
of performance and selection for end use.

A major portion of the home economics students at Wisconsin

State University are education majors and will probably teach

home economics. Although the home economics teacher will
not present facts and concepts she has learned in college
dealing with the properties of fibers to high school
students, she must be more knowledgeable than the students.
Without this knowledge the teacher would find it difficult
to inspire students to learn and to think beyond the facts,
formulas and routine procedures.

Teachers are expected not only to solve current prob-
lems but to foresee potential problems. Students must be
taught to analyze, evaluate, interpret and apply knowledge
to new situations and new products. As Whitehead emphasized
long ago, education should aim at the effective utilization
of knowledge (27).

While advanced textiles can be taught without the use of
textile testing instruments, laboratory problems in textiles
have advantages. Dale's Cone of Experience (9) shows that
abstract understanding is based on personal experience.
Although testing in the laboratory does not actually equate
with end use, Opportunity is provided to observe fabric
deterioration and comparative prOperties of fabrics. Jbseph.(16)
states "Standard test procedures used in the laboratory provide
reliable data that may be used in evaluation and, in some in-
stances, in prediction of fabric behavior . . . Test results

do provide guidelines for evaluating textile performance and

h

as such serve as a valuable function in the classroom or
laboratory."

We need to develop inquisitive students, young people
who desire to find answers for themselves and to draw con-
clusions independent of their instructors. The future de-
mands that we prepare new teachers who themselves have an
intellectual curiosity and who thereby can stimulate their
students to be likewise.

Methodology

In a separate problem, a detailed investigation of
laboratory instruments was carried.out and the information
compiled in.manual form. Letters were written to textile
departments of twelve major universities to determine if
any studies had been made on the problem of establishing
textile laboratories. Negative responses prompted library
research. The emphasis of this investigation was on stan-
dard test methods, applications and limitations for each in-
strument and test method, space requirements and procurement
of additional accessories and supplies.

While the instrument investigation served as background,
the focus of this study is on curriculum.implications of
deveIOping a curriculum.plan for an advanced textiles course.

Since this problem involved curriculum planning, the
Home Economics Education} staff was consulted regarding the

4‘

 

 

 

 

H1

5
curriculum implications. The advisability of establishing

a course rationale, formulating goals and objectives as
well as defining the major concepts to be considered was
suggested.

Justifications and descriptions of similar courses
were examined before the develOpment of the rationale for
an advanced course.

Using the recommendations of educational authorities
as a guideline, goals and objectives for an advanced textile
course were formulated.

References provided background information necessary
for understanding the concept approach and selecting
apprOpriate concepts.

Simultaneously, laboratory manuals used in textile
departments of other universities were reviewed and evalua-
ted for appropriateness to the situation at Wisconsin State
University. Books dealing with the subject of test methods
were also investigated for pertinence.

Based on pertinent textbooks and laboratory manuals,

a sequential outline of lecture tepics and laboratory prob-

lems was also planned.

Literature Review
Through correspondence with the textile departments

of leading universities, it was heped to obtain a number

rig

6
of laboratory manuals currently used in courses of a simi-
lar nature. Only six laboratory manuals for evaluation
were available. Several respondents indicated that a
manual was not in use. Three replies stated that a manual
was not used, but the organization of the course and the
approach to testing fabrics and garments was indicated.
The remaining failed to respond.

Of the laboratory manuals received, three were planned
for courses other than advanced textiles. One (39) was de-
veloped for use in beginning level textile courses. Two
(36, MO) were judged as oriented to the retailing aspect of
textiles and were not applicable. .

A fourth.manual (35) was developed for use in a textile
chemistry course with much emphasis placed on chemical
analysis. One manual (38) was found to consider textile
analysis without a foundation in chemistry and lastly,
another (37) was designed for students with and without
this science background.

A survey of the laboratory manuals that were obtained
revealed common laboratory experiences. All have tests de-
signed to identify fibers either by burning tests, micro-
scOpic tests, solubility tests, or textile identification
stains or by combinations of the various methods. Although

adaptations were made, prescribed testing was based on ASTM

g;

“I“;

7

designations or AATCC methods. Each contains a section on
stain removal. All have dimensional stability and color-
fastness tests. Tests for thread count, twist and wrinkle
recovery were also included in each manual. Where in-
struments were not available, manuals suggested simple teet-
ing with a minimum amount of control.

The approach to testing varied with the chemistry back-
ground of the students for which the manual was planned. Em-
phasis of dyestuffs and color methods and tests for the same,
seemed to vary directly with the amount of chemistry involved
in other testing. Some manuals included testing that others
did not. Presumably the manuals are based on the available
equipment in each of the laboratories. Some manuals speci-
fied that testing was to be done on one fabric, giving the
student an Opportunity to observe property relationships;
others specified a comparison of two similar fabrics with
only one variable to illustrate the effect of the variable on
the performance of a fabric. From this review of manuals,
it would seel.that no one manual is usable for the laboratory
at Wisconsin State University. Adaptations are necessary.

In addition to content consideration, the length of the term
or semester varies with the institution; therefore, the time
element is a determinant of the amount of subject matter and

testing which can be covered.

8

Books dealing with test methods seem to be very limited.
Booth (5) directs his discussion of the principles of tex-
tile testing to technologists engaged principally in the pro-
duction and distribution of textile products. Strong emphasis
is placed on the statistical element and the selection of sam-
ples for testing. Booth suggests that the book not be read in
isolation but in conjunction with the British Standards
Handbook No. 11, Methods of Test for Textiles, which is the
British counterpart of ASTM Standards. Of a highly technical
nature is Garner's Textile Laboratory Manual (12), a six-
volume work closely associated with Booth's Principles of
Textile Testing. Meredith and Hearle (22) attempt tOIlpply
scientific research in experimental physics to textile tech-
nology. This book is a result of a series of lectures de-
livered at the Manchester College of Science and Technology
in 1956 and 1967. Many of the details and illustrations have
been taken from the British Standards Handbook and A.S.T. M.
Standards on Textile Materials. While some of the material
covered in Skinkle (2A) is applicable, a portion is out-of-
date and incomplete. The most widely accepted and recognized
source for information on test methods, both nationally and
internationally, appears to be A.S.T.M. Standards - Part 2h -
Textile Materials published by American Society for Testing
and Materials (2). Of comparative value is the Technical
Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and

9
Colorists (1). Reasons for wide acceptance and recognition
are that the methods designated by both associations are
standardized, the tests give accurate results, and the methods
suggested are easily duplicated. For general laboratory use,
the American Standard Performance Requirements for Textile
Fabrics published by American Standards Association (3) and
the Federal Specifications-Textile Test Methods (11) would be
of value. Available also are numerous current periodicals
which provide outside references.

Most educational authorities agree that the establish-
of a sound rationale and meaningful goals and objectives are
a necessary part of curriculum planning to increase assurance
that more effective learning will take place.

Current educational literature Offers numerous sugges-
tions for the formulation of objectives. According to Tyler (26)
the most useful form for stating objectives is to express them
in terms of desired behavior in the student and the content
area in which this behavior will Operate. Mager (20) states
that objectives are measurable otherwise it is impossible to
determine whether or not the program is meeting Objectives.
Furthermore, Shear (3h) emphasizes that it is not the task of
any one college of home economics or any university to teach
all things to all students. The job of college faculty engaged
in curriculum planning is to select appropriate objectives in
a rational manner from a multitude Of possible objectives.

These Objectives should be consistent with the overall college

lO
purposes as well as the purpose of the university. The
Objectives should also consider the students and their capa-
bilities and needs.

Authorities on curriculum develOpment stress the imp
portance Of identifying concepts in relation to the subject
matter covered by any course. The significance of the concept
approach tO teaching is indicated by outstanding educators.
Dr. Tyler has said, "The study of concepts, skills and values
is an effective way of organizing and analyzing a curriculum"
(26). In Dr. Bruner's book, "The Process of Education," this
statement appears, "The curriculum of any subject at any level
should be determined by the most fundamental understanding
that can be achieved of the underlying concepts and principles
that give structure to that field (6). Dressel (30), French
Lick Seminar Consultant, expressed the same idea, "The power
of a field depends on its having a clear definition of the fun-
damental concepts in that field - this avoids rationalization
without adequate basis." Burton and others conclude that "con-
cepts give us a relatively stable, relatively permanent system
Of knowledge subject to change as new facts are discovered and
enable us to generalize, to carry understanding quickly from
one thing to another, and to supplement our knowledge Of any
specific thing by drawing on the total connotation of the
concept" (7). In essence, concept teaching is believed to fa-
cilitate transfer of learning and provide a frame Of reference

for evaluating future experience.

ll

Concepts have been defined in many ways. The terms
concept, generalization and understanding are used in a
number Of ways and to some they are interchangeable and to
others each.has a distinctive meaning. Lee and Lee (19)
refer to concepts as learning in a functioning form, or
usable knowledge differing significantly from facts or skills
although both.are incorporated. In other words, She essential
factor is one Of relationship and interrelationship. While
the emphasis on the conceptual approach is comparatively re-
cent, in 1906, Keith.(l7) wrote, “Concepts are the mind's way
of thinking the many into one...a way of finding unity in
variety." McClelland (21) defined concepts as abstractions
that can be used to organize thinking and facilitate
communications. Herr; (1h) defined concepts as the vehicles
Of thought. Archer (h) indicated that a concept is the label
of a set of things that have something in common. Rhodes (32)
states that "a concept deals with.the meaning an individual
attaches to a word or phrase." To some authors, including
Woodruff (29), ideas Of any complexity may be regarded as con-
cepts. Concepts, according to Bruner (6), delineate the basic
principles or fundamentals which make a subject comprehensible.
Dressel (30) identifies seven types Of concepts: ideas, rules,
generalizations, principles or laws, theories, problems and
areas of living and then goes on to suggest that the first of
these is the concept in pure form whereas the remaining requires

a statement Of relationship among concepts,

fl ‘

12

Three levels of concepts are identified by Burton (7).
Knowledge, definitions, descriptions, analogy, identification,
and classification are included in the first level. The
second level shows relationships and the third explains, in-
terprets, justifies and predicts.

At the French Lick Seminar, Dr. Dressel provided cri-
teria (30) for the selection Of concepts. The following
qualities were stressed:

1) Important, central, key.

2) Transmittable through planned educational
experiences.

3) Based on or related to research.

h) Useful in stimulating search for meaning
and in encouraging further investigation.

5) Useful in interrelating facts and lower
level concepts.

6) Useful in decision making.
7) Directive, cumulative, and integrative.

Several conceptual approaches to subject matter for
advanced textiles were reviewed. Based on background readings,
the concepts and generalization selected for the advanced tex-
tiles course are those developed at the 1966 Seminar on Concepts
which was sponsored by the Central Region of College Teachers
of Clothing and Textiles (31). Only those concepts and gen-
eralizations which.were felt to be appropriate for the advanced

textile course were selected.

13
CONCEPTS BASIC TO TEXTILES (31)

I. FUNCTIONS OF TEXTILES - (Consumer Oriented)
A. Aesthetic Functions

1.

Fabric desi n can be attained by color, finish

or yarn and or fabric structure.

a. Color acceptance of fiber is dependent upon.
chemical structure Of the fiber, chemical
structure of dye, and the type of attractive
forces between the two.

b. Visual and tactile textures are produced by
fabrication and finishing processes. Varia-
tions in fabric appearance, weight, shape re-
tention, hand, and drapeability are desirable
for the numerous end uses for textiles. These
variations are achieved by the prOper seine tion
of fiber type, yarn and fabric structure and
finish.

B. Comfort
Comfortable clothing can be worn without its intruding
on the conscious thought of the wearer. Factors which
influence this are thermal qualities, weight, elonga-
tion (stretch) and recovery, resilience, hand and Opacity.
C. Performance in Service

1.

2.

3.

h.

S.

6.

In order for fabrics to retain their original
appearance throughout the desired wear-life, the
following prOperties are desirable: color reten-
tion; muss and pill resistance; and elastic
characteristics.

The ability Of a fabric to retain its shape during
use is dependent upon such prOperties as dimensional
stability, elastic recovery and resilience.

Ease Of care (cleanability with.minimum amount of
pressing) is dependent upon fiber properties, fabric
construction, and finishes applied as well as tech-
niques of care.

When the wear-life Of the fabric is important, the
durability Of that fabric is dependent upon such
factors as surface contours, abrasion resistance
and elastic prOperties.

By the proper selection of fibers, yarns, fabrics
and finishes, fabrics are produced which protect
the individual from the rain, cold, heat, germs,
insects and injury.

Functional finishes protect fabric against de-
gradation from.such factors as light, mildew, rot,
heat and insects.

s5 II. FABRICATION OF TEXTILES - (professionally Oriented)
The properties of the finished textile product are deter-
mined by fiber properties, yarn and fabric structure,

“is.

11;

coloring methods and finishing processes.
A. Fibers

1.

2.

3.

5.

Legislation has divided these fibers into generic
classes according to chemical composition. Fibers
within a generic group tend to have similar, al-
though not identical, properties.

Such properties as fiber length, cross-sectional

shape, and cohesiveness affect the types Of yarn

structures which can be made from fibers.

The length to mass ratio of a fiber (or yarn) is

termed its linear density. Methods Of expression

for this value include tex, denier or count. As
the linear density of a fiber increases, its
stiffness also increases.

The chemical properties such as resistance to acids,

bases, solvents, bleaches, insects, mildew, and

light are directly dependent upon the chemical comp
position of the fiber. These properties may be
important for specific uses and are important in the
development Of proper methods of care, cleaning and
stain removal.

The physical properties such as strength, elongation,

elastic recovery, resilience, abrasion resistance,

pilling and dbnensional stability are related to the
molecular arrangement within its fibers.

Such properties as heat sensitivity and moisture

and dye absorption are dependent upon both.the

chemical composition of the fiber and the molecular
arrangement within the fiber.

The luster of man-made fibers can be varied by the

inclusion Of delustering agents. The presence Of

these delustering agents Often reduces light
resistance.

Textile fibers are composed of long chain (polymer)

molecules which are pflaced together in varying types

of molecular arrangements such as amorphous,
oriented or crystalline. All fibers contain vary-
ing amounts of these three types of arrangements.

a. Molecules having flexible chain structures,
curled or coiled.chain conformations, and.many
large or irregularly substituted side groups
will tend to form amorphous (chaotic) arrange-
mentSe

b. Molecules can be oriented (aligned along the
long fiber axis) either by the natural forces
of fiber production as in linen or by drawing
as in.man-made fibers.

c. Molecules having rigid chain structures, ex-
tended chain conformations, and many regularly
substituted polar groups will tend to form
crystalline arrangements. .

9.

10.

ll.

12.

15

Fibers having predominantly amorphous arrange-
ments tend to be weak, pliable, and have high
elongations. They may also have higher moisture
and dye absorption than oriented and/or crysta-
lline structures of the same general type.

Fibers having predominantly oriented but not

crystalline structures tend to be strong, mod-

erately pliable and have moderate elongations.

They are often highly abrasive resistant.

Fibers having predominantly crystalline struc-

tures tend to be stiff and brittle and to have low

elongations and flex abrasion resistance. They will
be strong fibers if the crystallites are oriented.

Elastic properties in fibers can be Obtained by:

a. Bonding molecules in the transverse directions
with either covalent crosslinks or many associa-
tive bonds as in crystallites.

b. Using molecules which prefer a curled or di-
ordered arrangement and which can not form
strong associative bonds between themselves in
the stretched state.

B. Yarn

1.

Yarn construction variations are dependent upon the
degree of parallelization of fibers, ply, type and
length of fiber, degree and direction Of twist, and
diameter Of yarn.

a. Fabrics constructed of spun yarns are less smooth
than the fabrics constructed of filament yarns.
Fiber properties are translated more directly
into yarn and fabric prOperties when filament
yarns are used than when spun yarns are used.

b. Fabrics constructed of yarns with greater para-
llelization are smooth and more lustrous than
are fabrics made from yarns that are less parallel.

c. The complexity of yarns varies as to the number
of components (single, ply or cord) and the de-
gree of similarity Of the components (simple or
complex) to each other.

1) Textured and/or stretch yarns (filament yarns
which have been given a coil, crimp or loop)
have greater bulk, stretch or modified stretch,
than do comparable unprocessed yarns.

2) The durability of fancy yarns in fabrics de-
pends upon the type of yarn used, the size of
yarn, and the degree of twist. The firmness
with which core and effect yarns are held
together and the firmness of the fabric
weave affect durability.

C.

16

3) Complex yarns contribute to fabric texture,
design, and wearing comfort through varia-
tions in surface effects, thermal qualities,
weight, elongation (stretch) and recovery.

d. As the degree of twist of yarn is increased,
the yarn becomes harder, luster decreases,
strength increases up to a point Of twist, and
the yarn becomes shorter in length. The degree

Of twist also influences the surface appearance

and dimensional stability of the resultant

fabric.

Fabrics

1.

The performance of a fabric is dependent upon the
fiber properties; fiber mobility within the yarn;
diameter of the yarns; yarn twist, crimp, and

type; thread count; the number and regularity Of

yarn interlacements; and the resultant yarn mo-

bility within the fabric. Finishes applied to the
fabric can alter this perfcrmance. Fabric proper-
ties which affect the performance in use are dura-
bilit (strength, elongation, and abrasion resis-
tance), weight, thickness, stiffness, resilience

and related elastic properties and dhmensional

stability.

a. The durability of a fabric is dependent upon
its ability to absorb stress and recover from
it. Fabrics having high strengths, elongations
and elastic prOperties will also tend to have
high abrasion resistance and durability. Smooth
surfaced fabrics have higher flat abrasion re-
sistance than do rough surfaced ones.

1) The strength of a fabric is de endent upon
the fiber strength, yarn type staple or
filament), linear density of the yarns and
thread count.

2) The fabric elongation is derived from the re-
moval of yarn crimp, slippage of fibers
within the yarns, and the elongation of the
fibere

b. The weight Of a fabric is determined by the
linear density of the yarns used and the thread
count. The fabric weight has a marked effect on
such.properties as strength, thickness, stiff-
ness, flat abrasion resistance and warmth.

c. The stiffness of a fabric is dependent upon the
yarn crimp, length of yarn crossover, number of
yarn interlacements, yarn size and twist and the
fabric weight.

d.

17

The resilience and related elastic prOperties
of a fabric are dependent on the elastic prop-
erties of the fiber, fiber mobility within
the yarn, yarn mobility within the fabric,

and the diameter of the yarn.

The dimensional stability of a fabric is re-
lated to the fiber stability, the deformations
caused by the tensions applied during fabric
construction and finishing, and the degree Of
recovery from these deformations during
subsequent finishing Operations.

D. Dyeing and Printing

Dyeing and printing are finishing processes used
to enhance the appearance Of the fabric. The type
of dye depends upon fiber and the intended use

of the fabric.

1.

ae

Satisfaction with the finished goods is affected
by the permanency of the dye. Permanency
depends'upon:

1) Environmental conditions. High humidity

and high sunlight intensity decreases color

permanency of many dyes. The nitrogen

oxides in the atmosphere often cause fume
fading of some dyes applied to acetate,
nylon and polyester fibers.

2) The severity of treatment in use and care.

3) Type of dye. Dyes which are insoluble in
water or other cleaning agents or which
form.covalent bonds with the fiber are more
colorfast than other types.

h) Coloring method.

a). eDyeing. Dyes are applied at the
various stages of fiber, yarn and
fabric production. Pigments added to
the spinning solution of mansmade fibers
produce a colorfast dyeing which is
evenly distributed throughout the fiber.
Fibers, yarns or fabrics can be dyed
by immersion.

b). Printing. Dyes can be applied to fabric
surfaces by various methods of printing
such as roller, screen, block, warp and
resist. The majority Of printed fabrics
are produced by the roller or scr en
methods. Dyes applied to the sur ace
of a fabric penetrate to the yarn and
fiber interior less than those applied
by immersion.

18

E. Finishes
1. Finishes are any processes performed on a fiber,
yarn, or fabric before or after fabrication. One
group of finishes is used to supply aesthetic appeal
of appearance, drape, handle and texture. A second
group of finishes includes special service features
which are reasonably permanent or readily renewable.

Among the more important are preshrinking and making

fabrics fire retardant, insect resistant, mildew

resistant, water repellent and capable of retaining

a crease while resisting mussing oerrinkling. Three

major classifications of finishes are mechanical,

chemical and additive.

a.Mechanica1 finishes cause only a physical change to
fiber, yarn and fabric contour. Common mechanical
finishes include beetling, brushing, calendering,
compaction, embossing, fulling, napping, singeing
and shearing.

‘b.Chemical finishes cause a modification or change in
the form or structure of a fiber, yarn and/or fabric.
1) Additive finishes include flocking, sizing

and weighting.

2) Protective finishes guard against climatic
conditions, flame, germs, insects, mildew, rot,
scorch, staining and water.

3) Properties and finishes produced by modifications
of chemical structure of the fiber include
dimensional stability, embossing, mercerization,
static control, wrinkle resistance and stiffness.

CHAPTER II

DEVELOPMENT OF THE COURSE

In the development of an advanced textiles course for
the home economics curriculum at Wisconsin State University,
the needs of the students and the goals of the university
were considered. One of the purposes of the home economics
department at Wisconsin State University is the education of
students, most of whom will become home economics teachers.
Because the concept approach to teaching is believed to be
more effective, course content was develOped to teach concepts.
Another consideration was that relationships between
fabric components, function and performance of fabrics in end
use requirements should be taught after students have the basic
information of the beginning course. Since textiles is a rapid-
ly growing body of knowledge, students must be able to analyze
and apply the information in new situations.
Lectures on fabric components, prOperty relationships
and current develOpments were designed to acquaint the student
with.material necessary for textile evaluation. Laboratory
problems have been selected to reinforce the lectures and assist
the student to analyze and relate testing data to performance

Of fabrics.

l9

Rationale

In today's rapidly changing society adaptation is
necessary. Since textiles is a dynamic area students must be
taught to relate knowledge to new situations. In order that
others might be taught to adapt, teachers must be aware of and
understand these changes through meaningful experiences. To
teach generalization and abstraction, increasing amounts of
concrete materials at the interest level of the student must
be utilized. Dale (9) states, "We can move to the abstraction
only through the concrete." As a result of concrete experiences,
the teacher is better prepared to develop the desired behavioral
changes necessary for adaptation.

Ideally the teacher's range of experience is broader than
that of the student. The develOpment of an advanced textiles
course which will expand knowledge and afford opportunities to
think, investigate independently and experience should attain
this ideal condition and enable application and transmission
Of the thought process.

Goals and Objectives
Based on the rationale of the advanced textile course,
goals and objectives were written. Actually the purposes are
essentially the same in both.goals and objectives; however,
goals refer to the teacher's desired outcomes in a more abstract
manner. Objectives are measurable and are stated in terms of

student behavior. The objectives were developed as a means of

20

\

21
measuring the teacher's goals for the students as well as
student attainment.

Generally, the goals and objectives Offer a breadth of
experiences on which the student can base decision. Specific
goals were selected to include information necessary for the
relationship Of fabric properties and the evaluation of
products, data and pertinent literature.

The teacher's goals for the student include the ability
of the student to attain certain results; therefore, they may
be stated in terms Of desired student behavior.

The student should:

1) Formulate basic concepts to evaluate new
develOpments in textile technology for
end use.

2) Become familiar with and be able to evaluate
sources Of information pertaining to textile
testing and evaluation.

3) Gain a knowledge Of selected standard test
procedures and be able to interpret and apply

results as related to performance.

h) Understand how physical and chemical properties
of fibers are related to fabric performance.

5) DeveIOp an awareness of the interrelationship
of yarn and fabric structure, finishes, and
color and design methods.

6) Recognize the advantages and limitations of
laboratory testing.

The measurable objectives of the course stated in terms
of student behavior are as follows:

1) Relate fabric geometry to textile concepts for
given textile products.

2)

3)

h)

5)

6)

7)

8)

9)

22

Survey reliable sources of information on
textile testing through library research
and classify material as to consumer or
research orientation.

Identify or verify fiber content by burning
and solvency tests, microscOpic identification
and identification stains.

Utilize selected standard test methods and
laboratory instruments for comparative studies
of fabrics, fibers, weaves and finishes.

Report testing data in a well organized manner
given the basin procedures for selected
instruments.

Recognize and explain possible correlation
between results and the performance of a
fabric or fabrics based on testing data.

Determine and compare physical and chemical
prOperties Of selected fibers and fabrics.

Use and interpret scientific data as reported
in current literature for the selection,'uae
and care Of textiles.

Predict with reasonable accuracy the performance
and care requirements of given textile products
based on the fabric components.

Lecture and Laboratory Topics

A.sequential outline of lecture topics and laboratory

experiences based on the goals and objectives for the course

and the concepts selected is necessary for the organization

of subject matter and supportive use Of the laboratory equip-

ment. An outline developed by the author meeting these re-

quirements appears on page 25. The outline developed does

not attempt to teach.concepts individually in isolated

23
lecture tOpics as the prOperties, functions and performance
are so interrelated. The concepts and course goals contain
interrelated and overlapping subject matter; therefore, the
course was organized according to subject matter rather
than concepts. Each lecture tOpic is taught to include
those concepts and goals which relate to it.

To illustrate the relationship of lecture tOpics and
laboratory experiences of the course outline to each other
and to the goals, objectives and concepts, a two-dimensional
chart was prepared ( pages 26-28 ). Each lecture topic and
laboratory problem is charted separately. First looking at
the specific lecture tOpic or laboratory problem and then at
the columns with goals, Objectives and concepts, the rela-
tionship can be observed.

Outside readings to attain the desired behavior of goal
2 and Objectives 2 and 8, will be assigned when the author
has had an opportunity to survey the library at Wisconsin
State University. Oral and written reports were included to
provide experiences for the attainment of goals 3 and Ob-
jectives 6 and 8.

In addition, the outline for the beginning textiles
course now being Offered at Wisconsin State University indi-
cates that only one or two lectures are devoted to yarns and
fabric structures. The second course is planned to begin

with a review of fibers and then go into more depth for yarns

21+
and fabric structures. The beginning course outline also
seems to indicate strong emphasis on individual fibers;
therefore, the advanced course was planned to concentrate
on structural modifications and relationships between
fabrics, properties and function. Where necessary, lec-
tures were planned to precede the corresponding laboratory
_problem. Examples of this are the property review, in-

strument test methods and stain removal lectures.

WEEK
1
2

3

7

9 ‘DYESTUFFS
%PPLIED DESIGN
AS NES

W
NTRODUCTION

FIBER CLASSIFICATION REVIEW

t "-P’s- ”ES 0 E":

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF FIBERS
‘7 BER MO. 0‘

ONS & B
TEST METHODS

ES ME HOD

ARN STRUCTURES

I .S

ADVANCED TEXTILES LECTURES AND LABORATORIES

LABoRAToRIg

FIBER IDENTIFICATION
Microsco-ic & Burni-z

'=ER IE “i’ 0‘
Solubilit~ & T 1.3
F :ER D ‘ ‘A o 0‘

UNKNOWN SAMPLES
INSWTR 1 DEMONS RAT o

 

COMPLEX & TEX ED YARNS
J DEVELOPMENTS
EXAM
TRUCTURAL DEVELOPMENTS

‘ ODIFICATIONS OF FABRICS

LODIFICATIONS CONTINUED
POUTINE & SPECIAL FINISHES

DEVELOPMENTS IN FINISHES

 

YARN COUNT, TWIST &
NUMBER

 

“POISTURE CONT

 

ENSILE STRE I i
ABRASION RESISTZNCE

 

DI NSIONAL S ABI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1' 'o ' '] WRIW
OLORFASTNESS
11 DURABILITY COIORFASTNES __
RABILITY Li t and Crocki
12 S B L COLORFASTNESS
.LASTICITY Laundr Bleach.& Pers
13 EXAM' CONCLUSION OF TESTING
IMENSIONAL STABILITY
l D “NS 0 AL S ABIL Y“ STAIN REMOVAL
STAIN REMOVAL
1 ,COW'ORT ORAL WORTS ON FABRIC
IQOMFORT EVALUATION PROBLEMS
13 yCARE ORAL REPOR S 0 AB C
CARE PRODUCTS EVALUATION PROBLEMS

 

 

TEXT FOR COURSE: JOseph, Marjory L.
New Ybrk:

Em (FINAL)

Sciggcg.

Introductogy Textilg
lt, Rinehart and

Winston, Inc., 1966.

* Laboratories 6 through.13 involve testing on rotating basis

25

RELATIONSHIP OF GOALS, OBJECTIVES AND CONCEPTS To
COURSE CONTENT

 

 

COURSE CONTENT GOALS* OBJECTIVES* CONCEPTS**
LecfureTopics " '
Fiber Classification 1 IIAl
Review
Physical Properties of l,h 1.3.7 IC3,ICh,ICS,
Fibers II,IIA1,IIA2,
IIA3,IIAS,
IIA6,IIA8,
IIBla,IICl,
IIClb,IICld.
Chemical Properties of l,h 1,3,7 IAl,IC3,ICh,
Fibers ICS,II,IIA1,
IIA2,II ,
IIA6,IIA ,IIA9,
IIA12a,IIA12b,
IICl,IICld.
Fiber Modifications 1,5 l,3,7,9 IAlb,IICld.
and Blends
Test Methods 1,3,6 2,h,5,6
Yarn Structures 1,5 1,7,9, IAlb,ICh,II,
IIA2,IIBl,
IIBlb,IIBlc,
IIBlcl)2)3),
IIBld,IIClal),
IIClaZ),1101c.
Complex and Textured 1,5 1,7,9 IAlb,ICh,II,
Yarns IIBl,IIBlb IIBlc,
IIBlcl)2)3 .
New DevelOpments- 1,5 1,7 IAlb,IIBlb IIBlc,
Yarns IIBICI)2)3 .
Structural DevelOpments & 1,5 1,7,9 IAlb,IC3,ICh,II,
Modifications of Fabric IIClO,IICle.
Routine & Special 1,5 1.7.9 IC3,ICS,ICO,II,
Finishes IIA7,IICl,IIEl,
IIEla,IIElb,
IIElbl),IIElb2).
IlElb3).

* Numbers refer to goals and Objectives on pp. 21-22.
** Numbers and letters refer to concepts on pp. 13-18.

26

RELATIONSHIP OF GOALS, oBJEoTIvg§_AND CONCEPTS To
1 COURSE CONTENT

 

COURSE CONTENT GOALS* OBJECTIVES* CONCEPTS**
ecture Topics continued
New Developments in 1,5 1,7 IC3,ICS,IC6,II
Finishes IICl.
Dyestuffs - Color 1,5 l IAla,II,IIA6,
IIA7,IIA9,IID1a,
IIDlah)a),
IIDlah)b).
Applied Design 1,5 1,7 IAla,II,IIA7,
IIBlC3,IIDla.
Colorfastness 1,5 1,6,7 IAla,ICl,II,
IIDla,IID1al),
IID1a3).
Durability 1,3,u,5 1,6 ICl,ICh,IIA9,
IIAlO,IIAll,
IIBlc2),IICla,
IIClal).
Extensibility 1,3,u,5 1,6 ICl,ICZ,IIA9,
IIBlcl),IICla,
IIClaZ).
Elasticity 1,3,h,5 1,6 ICl,ICZ,ICh,
IIAlO,IIAll,
IIAl2a,IICld.
Dimensional Stability l,3,h,5 1,6 ICZ,IIA5,IIBld,
IICle.
Stain Removal 1 9 IIAh.
Comfort 1,3,h,5 1,6 IB,ICS,IIA3,
IIA9,IIClc.
Care and Care Broducts 1,3,h,5 1,6,9 IC3,ICh,IIAh,
IIA6,IICla,
IIClal),IIDla2).
Laboratory Experiences
iber dentification 3 IIAh.
Instrument Demonstration 3,6 h,5,7

* Numbers refer to goals and objectives on pp. 21-22.
r3 ** Numbers and letters refer to concepts on pp. 13-18.

27

RELATIONSHIP OF GOALS, OBJECTIVES AND CONCEPTS TO
COURSE CONTENTE

 

 

 

COURSE CONTENT GOALS* OBJECTIVES* CONCEPTS**
Laborator Ex erie ces
(continued)
Yarn,Count,Twist and 3,6 n.5,? IAlb,II,IIBl,
Number IIBla,IIBlb,
IIBlc,IIBld,IICl
IICld,IIElb.
Moisture Content 3,6 n.5,7 IC3,IICl.
Tensile Strength 3,6 n.5,? IIA5,IIA9,ICh,
IIAlO,IIA11,
IICl,IICla,
IIClal).
Abrasion Resistance 3,6 #95:? ICh,IIA5,IIA9,
IIAlO,IIA11,
1101, IICl‘e
Idmensional Stability 3,6 n.5,? ICZ,IIA5,IIBld,
IICl,IICle,IIE1.
Wrinkle Recovery 3,6 h,5,7 IIB,IICl.
Colorfastness 3,6 h.5.7 IAlc,ICl,IID1a.
Stain Removal 3,6 A.S.7 IC3,IIAh,IID1a,
IIDla2).
Oral Reports on Fabric 3,6 5,6,8,9 All concepts
Evaluation
Outside Readings 2 2,8 All concepts
Written Reports 5,6,9

* Numbers refer to goals and objectives on pp. 21-22.
** Numbers and letters refer to concepts on pp. 13-18.

28

‘
I
Y
9 I v
I s l
v ' f

1‘

I.

,9

..

 

 

CHAPTER III
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

A course for advanced textiles should be of general'
value to others involved in curriculum develOpment and in-
struction in the field of textiles. Anyone working with
curriculum develOpment must go through similar procedures.

Limited publications are available dealing with planning
curriculums for instruction in this particular area. Some of
the pertinent materials have been mentioned in the literature
review and the bibliography could serve as a foundation for
further study.

The value of this investigation to the author cannot be
questioned. Since the course in advanced textiles is being
Offered for the first time at Wisconsin State University, no
curriculumhmaterials have been develOped. The task of setting
up this course has been partially accomplished through this
study. A philosophical base and rationale for teaching ad-
vanced textiles has evolved. Through literature review, a
basis has been provided for the establishment of goals and
objectives. A means for eliminating irrelevant materials and
relating subject matter to problem solving has come about
through the process of selecting basic concepts. Course cone
tent has been clarified and organized in the course outline.
The chart illustrating the relationship Of goals, objectives

and concepts to course content was especially helpful in the

29

3O
clarification of the author's thinking and should prove
equally valuable in the detailed preparation of lecture
topics and laboratory problems.

While much of the task of developing a curriculum.plan
for advanced textiles has been accomplished, additional work
remains to be done. Reading assignments and outside references
will be planned when the library at Wisconsin State University
has been surveyed for pertinent materials. As the physical
arrangement of the laboratory is completed, changes may be
necessary to facilitate testing. Means of evaluating the
goals and objectives of the course will have to be developed.

Finally, after the course has been taught, the author
realizes and expects that some additional changes will be

made to meet the needs of the students.

2.

3.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

114-.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
Books

American Association Of Textile Chemists and
Coégrists. Technical Manual. New YOrk:Howes Publishing,
19 .

American Society for Testing and Materials. ASTM
Standards - Part‘gh.Textile Materials. Philadelpfiia, 1965.

American Standard Performance Re uirements for Textile
Fabrics. L22, Volume I and II. New York: American

StandEFds Association, 1960.

 

Archer, E. J. The Psychological Naturg of Concepts.
Cited by Bernadine H. Peterson in a paper presented at
thz Clothing and Textiles Forum, University of Wisconsin,
19 7.

Booth, J. E. Princi les of Textile Testin . New YOrk:
Chemical Publishing CO., Inc., 195E.
Bruner, J. S. Process of Education. Cambridge, Massa-

chusetts: Howard UniversIty Press, 1960.

Burton, William and Others. Education for Effective
Thinking. New York: Appleton-Century-Crofts, 1930.

Cowan, Mary L. Introduction to Textiles. New York:
Appleton-Century-Crofts, Inc., 19 2.

Dale, Edgar. Audio-Vigual Methods in Teaching (rev. ed.).
Dryden, l95h.

Enrick, N. L. Management Control Manual for the Textile
Industry. New York: Rayon Publishing CO., 19 .

Federal S ecifications-Textile Test Methods. Washington
D.C.: General Service KdministratIon, 1951.

Garner, W. Textile Laboratory Manugl New YOrk: American
Elsevier Publishing 00., 19 .

Grover, E.B. and Hamby, D.S. Handbook of Textile Testi

and Quality Control. Textile Book Publishers, 1960.

Harré, R. "The Formal Analysis of Concepts," Anal sis of
Concept Learning. New York: The Academic Press, 1963.

 

31

/“\.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

2b.
25.
26e

27.

28.

32

Hollen, Norma & Saddler, Jane. Textiles. 2nd ed.
New York: Macmillan Company, 19 .

Joseph, Marjory.Introductory Textile Science. New
York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1956.

Keith, J.A.H. Elementary Education: Its Problems and
Processes. Chicago: Scott, Foresman and Company, 1906.

Labarthe, Jules. Textiles: Ori ins to Use s. New YOrk:
Macmillan Company, 195E.

Lee, J. M. and Lee, D. M. The Child and His Curriculum.
3rd ed. New YOrk: Appleton-Century-Crofts, Inc., 1960.

Mager, Robert F. Preparigg Objectives for Proggammed
Instructiog. San ‘rancisco: Fearon Publisher, 19 2.

McClelland, D. C. Personality. New YOrk: The Dryden
Press, 1955.

Meredith, R. and Hearle, J. W. 8. Ph sical Methods Of
Investi atin Textiles. New York: TextiIe Eook

Publishers, Inc., 1939.

Potter, M. David and Corbman, Bernard P. Fiber to
Fabric. 3rd ed. New YOrk: Greg Publishing Division
McCray Hill Book Company, Inc. 19 9.

Skinkle, John H. Textile Testing. Chemical Publishing
00., 1110., 1914.9.

Stout, Evelyn E. Introduction to Textileg. 2nd ed.
New YOrk: John Wiley & Sons, no., 19 .

Tyler R. W. Basic Princi les of Curriculum and
Instructiog. icago: nivers ty of Chicago, 1950.

 

Whitehead, A. N. The Aims of Education. New YOrk:
Mentor Books, 1929.

Pamphlets

American Home Economics Association. "Textile

Lgboratogy Eguipment List. Washington D.C., 1963.

32

e,

 

29.

30.

31.

32.

33.

3h.

35.

36.

37.

38.

39.

AO-

Periodicals

Woodruff, Ashel D. "The Use of Concepts in Teaching and
Learning." The JOurnal_of Teacher EducationI March l96h.
Cited by Bernadine H. Peterson in a paper presented at the
Clothing & Textiles Forum, U. of Wisconsin, 1967.

Reports

Dressel, P. L. The Role of Concepts in Planning the
Home Economics Curriculum. Home Economics Seminar:
A Progress Report, French Lick, Indiana, 1961.

Proceedings of Clothing and Textiles Seminar.
Central Region of College Teachers of Clothing and

Textiles. Manhattan, Kansas, 1966.

Rhodes, Kathleen. What is Involved in Develo i and
Stating Concepts. Proceedings of the CoEPerence of
College eachers of Textiles and Clothing, Eastern
Region, Washington D. C.

 

 

Unpublished Material

Randall, Shirley A. "A Study of Selected Instruments
For A textile Laboratory." Unpublished Problem,
Michigan State University, 196 .

Shear, Twyla M. "An Evaluation of Core Curriculum in
the College of Home Economics." Thesis for the Degree
of Ed. D. Michigan State University, 196h.

Other Sources

Cooper, Margaret M. Laboratory Manual for Home
Economics 50. University of Wisconsin

Ginter, Adella E. A.Manual_£or Textile Buying.
University Of Missouri.

Padgett, Rose. Textiie Chemistry and Testing ip
the Laboratory. Southern Illinois University.

Riedel, Kathryn B. Advanced Textiles Laboratory Manual
Michigan State University.

Stevens, Hazel T. & Richey, Helen L. Introductio to
General Textiles Laboratory Manual. FlorIda State U.
Wingate, Isabel B. and Burkholder, Ralph. Laboratopy

Swatch Book. New York University & Rochester nstitute
of Technology.

33

 

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