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THE DEVEIDI“!VE3T‘IT AND EVALUATIOI‘I OF- AN
IN'I‘EITVIEE’I SCHEDULE, MATERIAIS AND PROCEDURES
FOR PREFERE-YCES MIL BUYIIEG PRACTICES

IN GIRLS ‘ OUTERWEAR

By
Mabel Ruth COOper

A THESIS

I

Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan
State College of Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing.and Related Arts

1955

 

 

   

AC KNOWLEDGEME NTS

This study is a part of a more comprehensive Experiment Station
research project now is progress at Michigan State College. The
writer wishes to express her sincere appreciation and gratitude to
Miss Hazel B. Strahan for her guidance, interest and supervision,
to Mrs. Mary Lou Rosencranz and Miss Mary Ellen Roach for their
assistance, and to the ten mothers whose cooperation made this

study possible .

 

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
III. METHODS AND PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
IV. DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

The Sampling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Interview Procedure and Equipment . . . . . . . . . 32

Data on the Families Interviewed . . . . . . . . . 36

Home Sewing Practices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DB
Ready-to—Hear Practices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D9

Preferences for Ready-to-Wear Dresses of a Varied

Price Range, Group A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Preferences for Dresses Made at Home, Group B. A. . 61
Preferences fer Ready-to-Near Dresses of One

Price Range, Group C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Preferences for Coordinated Separates, Group D . .. 7O
Preferences for Winter Coats, Group E . . . . . . . 77

V . SIMIAW ‘ O O O I C O O O O O O O O O D O O O O O 0 O 81
VI. GENERALIZATIONS AND CONCLUSIONGS . . . . . . . . . . 85
BIBLIOGRAPHY . . J . . . . . . .

APFEIQDIX o o o o o o o o c o o o o o o o o o o c o o o o o o 93

 

 

 

TABLES

NUMBE PAGE

I. Child Composition of the Sixty-two Contacts . . . . . . 31

II. Summary of Eligible Interviews . ... . . . . . . . . . 32
III. Income, Father's Occupation, Mother's Employment and

Rating of House-type and Dwelling Area of the Ten

Famil es Interviewed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

IV. Family Composition of the Families Interviewed . . . . . 38

V. Grade, Age, Height and Jeight of the Girls in This Study 39

VI. FamiLy Income and Type, Age and Make of Sewing Machines D3

.VII. Sewing Frequency for the Family and Others . . . . . . . hS

VIII. Practices in Ready-to-Wear and Home Sewing of Specific
Garments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D9

ILLUSTRATIONS
Group

A Rendy-to-Near Dresses of a Varied Price Range . . . . 56-58
B Dresses Made at Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62-63
C Ready-to-Wear Dresses of One Price Range . . . . . . . 65-67
D Coordinated Separates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67-75

E WinteI‘COatS .....OOOOOOOIOOOOOOO 77-78

 

 

 

CHARTS AND DRAWINGS

Chart Page
I. Map of Lansing, Michigan, Socio-Economic Ages . . . . . 115

II. Area 25, Highest Percent White Collar Workers . . . . . 116
Highest Education and
Highest Income

III. Area 27 and 28, Lowest Percent White Collar Workers . . 117
Lowest Education and
Lowest Income
IV. Design of Garment Bags . . . . . . , , , , , , , , , 118

V. Display Stand Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

 

_____,______,_____..-__ — 71—!» -*~.mr‘—. r- _-__, — ————-

 

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION

The 1950 Census Report shows that there were approximateky ;
11,0hh,000 girls between the ages of five to fourteen in the United
States at that time. 1 The girl population rose to 13,722,000 by July 1,
1953, an increase of 1,678,000 according to the population estimates
released by the Bureau of Census in April l95h. 2 The change in age
composition of the children in the United States between 1950 and 1953
is worthy of notice.

Between April I, 1050, the date of the last census,
and July I, 1953, the number of children under 15 years
of age had increased by almost five million, accounting
for nearly 60 percent of the net gain of 8 1/2 million
in the total pOpulation. On July 1, 1053, there were an
estimated h5,h22,000 children under 15 years old compared
with h0,h83,000 in April 1950, an increase of 12.2 percent
above the 1950 figure. The most striking change occurred
in the S-to-9ayear-olds, who increased by about 2.h million,
or 17.9 percent of the 1950 figure. This rate of growth
was more than three times the average for all ages (5.6
percent). Children under 5 years old and 10 to It years
old had substantial gains, both increasing by approximately
1.3 million or 7.9 percent and 11.8 precent, respectively. 3

 

l. 1990 Census of Population. Volume II Characteristics of the
Population, Part I, U. S. Summaqy. Washington, D. 0., United
States Government Printing Office, 1953, h86 pp.

2. Current Census Reports - Population Estimates. Series P-2S,
No. 85, Bureau of Census, Washington, D. 0., 1953, 5 pp.

3. Loc. cit.

 

 

 

 

 

The impact of this increased birth rate of the five to nine year olds
in 1950-1953 is now reaching the sub-teen or ore-teen market of 1955
and 1956. The Bureau of Census' projected population estimates for
the next twenty years show a steady increase with the 1075 girl
population rising to 20,hh5,000 girls between five to fourteen

h

years of age.

As the population continues to rise, the retailers and manufacturers
will need to meet the increased clothing demands for this exnanded

market in children's apparel. According to Saunders and Parker 5

the sharpest rise in clothing consumption in 1953 has been in
children's clothing, which is up over twenty percent above the 19h?
per capita consumption figures. However, the per capita consumption
in children‘s clothing declined after 19h8 and did not again surpass
the 19h8 per capita level until 1953. This decline reflects the fact
that the total clothing expenditures for ten or fourteen year old
children is considerably more than for children under five or for
children from five to nine years old. While the enormous baby crop
of the postwar years did increase the number of children in the lower
age bracket, the per capita consumption did not rise until these
children reached the age of ten, the age when more of the family

clothing dollar is spent on the children.

 

u. Current Census Reports - Population Estimates. Series P-2S, No. 78
Bureau Of Census, Washington, D. 0,, 19§§,P§_pp.

5. Saunders, D. A. and Parker, 8. S. The Sunny Outlook for Clothes.

Fortune. D9 (April 195h), pp. 132-2hh.

 

 

1,—‘,____.:_7 )-

Both retailer and manufacturer assert that they are now supplying
and producing the types and styles of garments that the consumer wants
and will buy. However, the consumer often feels that she is limited in
her buying by what is available on the market. Availability, however,
is not the only factor that influences consumers in their clothing
buying practices. The family's social and economic status in their
community is a most vital factor and in consequence many more mothers
now work outside the home in order to supplement the family income so
as to achieve the social and economic status they desire. Thus, the
practice in meeting the family's clothing needs has changed, for the
mother has less time to produce clothing in the home, which in turn
results in increased purchases in ready-to-wear.

In recent years new fibers, fabrics and finishes have been
develoned which reduce the amount of time and effort needed for
maintenance and are readily available in the market. An increased
interest in informal and outdoor living contributes to the demand for
greater comfort in clothing with less emphasis on the traditional or
formal types of garments.

The pre-teen age girl has become more vocal in her clothing
preferences and demands. Consequently, a type and style of clothing
has been developed for this new market.

A more detailed knowledge of some of these changes which are
taking place in the selection of girl's clothing can be important
to clothing retailers and manufacturers, as well as to educators who

assist girls and families in their clothing selections and expenditures.

The manufacturers of clothing recognize the pre-teen age group as a

 

 

 

potentially strong clothing market which is vastly different from
children's, teen-age or adults' clothing.

While a limited amount of research has been done in analyzing
the market of ore-teen and early-teen age girls' clothing preferences,
there is sufficient evidence to show the need for more studies of the
motives, practices and needs of this group. Many studies have probed
the psychological and physiological needs of pre-school and teen—age
girls, but very little of such work has been done for the pre-teen
age group.

There is probably no age at which there is greater and more
varied change in the physical and emotional develOpment than in the
pre-teen group. Their physical and emotional maturity is reached
at different rates and their clothing preferences may or may not bear
direct relationship to their physiological age. The rate of maturity
varies with the individual and, as a consequence, individual needs
and preferences are different.

This study has been designed to determine through interviews with
mothers what their family practices are in the purchase and use of
selected items of apparel for their daughters eight through twelve
years of age.

In order that the mother and the interviewer will be better able
to communicate on the specific factors of style, color, fabric, etc.,
the schedule to be developed will be administered, in part, by the
use of both ready-made and home-made garments. Assumption of this

need is derived from former studies which indicated that the interviewer

 

and respondent, in general, did not have a common understanding of
basic terminology.

Specific objectives in this small survey is (l) to ascertain the
feasibility of the use of actual garments in an interview situation,
(2) to expeWiment and develop apprOpriate procedures and materials
for use in the interview situation, (3) to evaluate the questions in
the schedule for clarity, reliability and common understanding. This
study constitutes a pilot study as a pre-test for a larger study

which is being undertaken as an Experiment Station project in Textiles

and Clothing.

 

CEDJ’EL'JLL II
IL'JVIEN OF LITAJiL'LTUIiE

"Clothes may make growing up easier or harder. They may become
a symbol of security, and extension of self, a way of identifying with
someone else, or a means of real satisfaction." 6 This statement
illustrates Head's belief that clothes help build personality. She
further states that "children do like clothes and find real satisfaction
in them. Clothes make a contribution to the process of growing up when
they are right from a child's standpoint." 7

Bayor and wybourn 8 state "that clothing has many potentialities
for enriching our everyday living; it can help a person live more
fully and effectively. But it also can cause unhappiness and
frustration."

Hurlock's investigation in the motivations of fashion showed that
"adolescence is the period of life in which clothes assume the greatest
importance. ....Adolescence proved to be the period of life in which

‘the person is most strongly affected by the approval or disapproval

 

6. Read, Katherine. Clothes Help Build Personality. Journal of Home
Economics, h? (May 1950), pp. 3&8.

 

7. Ice. cit.

8. anor, Stephania and Wybourn, Marjory. Third Clothing and Textile
Seminar. Journal of Home Economics. h2 (December 1950), pp. 803.

 

 

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of others, in regard to his clothing. ....Self-confidence was
increased most by clothing in adolescence." 9

Knowing that clothing does play an important role in a girls'
life, a mother has the difficult problem of controlling and directing
the selection and purchase of her daughter's clothing. She wants
attractive and becoming clothes for her dau~hter; yet she needs
clothes that will be suited to the purpose, that will keep their
attractive appearance in use, and that will not be excessive in cost.

Bayor and Wybourn report that "what clothing contributes to our
everyday living depends upon the wisdom of the consumer's choice." 10
Some families are spending an adequate amount for clothing and yet

are not obtaining complete satisfaction from their purchases.

Thompson and Lea 11 are of the opinion that "an almost-unexplored
area is that of creating becoming garments styled from sturdy fabrics
and designed to meet the needs of the grade school girl." They outline
the following items which should be considered by manufacturers to
meet the clothing needs of this age group: Designs that open out
flat for ironing; can be let out easily as the girl grows taller and
as she becomes stouter; haverfew buttons, with several additional
buttons for replacement; are attractive for the stout girl and the
slim one; have a minimum of decorative trimming and are characterized

by careful finish. Fabrics that do not need ironing; are spot resistant

iii

9. Hurlock, Elizabeth B. Motivation in Fashion. Archives of Psychology,
No. 111. New York, Columbia University, 1929, 71 pp.

10. Op. cit.

11. Thompson, Henrietta M. and Rea, Lucille E. Clothing for Children.
New York, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 19h9, hl2 pp.

 

 

 

 

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or can be wiped off with a damp cloth; are crease resistant; will not

shrink or fade; rill launder easily; will not need starching; will not

require dry cleaning and are light-weight, flexible and elastic. 12

Of the social factors which influence clothing purchases, income,

place of residence, age, size, composition of family and social strata

are probably the most important. Clothing expenditures increase

appreciably with income for both rural and urban families.

Where the family lives - in a large city, a village, or on
a farm - has an effect on the amount spent for clothing; the
greater the urbanization, the greater the outlay. ....The
amount spent for clothing at successive ages first rises and
then falls. As children grow older, eXpenditures for their
clothing mount. The peak is reached when men and women are
in their twenties and thirties. From then on, Spending tends
to decline with increasing age. ....A change in the size
and composition of the family group affects the clothing
expenditure pattern of various members. When one child is
added to the family, both husband and wife tend to spend
less on their own clothing."

The social strata of a family readily influences the amount and type

of clothing purchased.

12.

13.

1h.

One of the outstanding characteristics of wage earner homes
is that they are 'child centered'. While the white collar
worker and his wife have a social position to maintain, and
the family clothes budget is adjusted to allow them more for
their own appearance, the wage earner family figures its children
are the ones in the public eye and their children's clothing
allowance frequently dominates the wage earner's family budget
for this item. During the week mother wears house dresses and
dad wears work clothes. Son and daughter go to school and are
conscientiously scrubbed, combed and groomed when they set out. 1h

Ibid.

How Families Use Their Incomes. United States Department

of Agriculture, Washington, D. 0., Misc. Pub. 653, 19h8.

The Apparel and Accessories Market. Division of Marketing

and Research, Macfadden Publication, Inc., New York, 1950, pp. 122

 

 

 

 

.1:

 

 

 

 

 

In a study of the effect of social status on expenditures for

children's clothing in 19h9, 00135 and Shenk 15 found that the wage
earnor's family Spent an average of filSP.OO for their two children's
clothing, while white collar families Spent an average of $159.00 per
year for clothing for their two children. The sample for their survey
consisted of 76 families, each with two children under sixteen years
of age.

Stone, Form and Strahan 16 maintain that the social climate of the
shOpping expedition influences the decision of the purchase. They
divide shoopers into two groups: The "receptive" group includes
homemakers who like to shop, who are influenced by window displays,
who approach clothing purchases with an uncertainty or vagueness
concerning what they want to buy, who desire the support of shopping
companions and/or sales clerks in arriving at a purchase decision.

The "insulated" group dislikes window shopping, avoids window displays,
approaches clothing purchases with a certainty of what they want and
excludes shOpping companions and sales clerks from their purchase
decision.

Also exerting a great influence on clothing purchases is the
factor of style. The pre-teen girl has long been stuck in a fashion
backwater. Designs have been a watered-down version of adult fashion.

Now designers are creating fashions eSpecially sized and styled for the

ire-teen aged girl .

—‘

15. Coles, J. W. and Shenk, N. W. Effect of Social Status on Expenditures
for Children's Clothing. Journal of Home Economics. bl (April 19h9),
pp. 193.

16. Stone, G. P., Form, W. H. and Strahan, H, B. The Social Climate of
Decision in Shopping for Clothes. Journal of Home Economics. ho,
(February l95h), pp. 88. ———

 

 

 

....Ano the picture of Radio City skating rink - even the
briefest stop to hang over the crowded railing brings out that
the skating costume is a thing of real significance to the
youngsters. While the tots tumble around in their cozy snow
suits, the school agers count fashion a vital part of the Sport.
Special clothes for skating? Who says style isn't important
to these kids?" 17

The literature found on children's clothing was reviewed with two
purposes in mind: To gather information of a general nature which may
be pertinent to the study and to examine the devices and procedures
that other investigators had used in similar studies.

Many studies have been made on the needs, selections, purchases
and problems of girls' clothing. The high school or teen-aged girl
and the pre-school girl are the groups most often chosen for study.
Relatively few studies have been made of the grade-school or ore-teen
aged girl.

In the investigations made previously of the needs, selections,
purchases and problems of girls' clothing, the information was obtained
by the use of questionnaires and by personal interviews. To the
writer's knowledge no study has attempted to duplicate a buying
situation, whereby actual garments were used as a basis for the

interviewee's selction.

Bowen 18 made a study in 1939 of the habits of the consumer in
the selection and purchase of children's clothing. The study included
217 children between the ages of three months to fifteen years. Twenty-

five percent of these children were six to ten years of age, thirty-eight

Q

17. d. 1. w. Kiddies Heek. Nomen's Wear Daily. December 30, 1953.

18. Bowen, Anna Frances. A Study of the Habits of the Consumer in the
Selection and Purchase of Children's Clothes and Shoes. Unpublished
Master's Thesis, University of Tennessee. 1939. 9h pp.

 

 

 

percent were three months to five years, and forty—seven percent were

eleven to twelve years of age. In this study the following buying

habits were noted:

1. The consumers participating in this study were influenced

by trade names, brand names and labels.

2. It was noted that hats, coats and play suits were the articles
of clothing bought at certain times of the year. These were
definitely articles upon which style has a good deal of influence.
Such staple articles as socks, underwear and night clothing were
bought as needed.

3, There was a great deal of home sewing done by the group. The
articles most often made at home were dresses, pajamas, nightgowns,
slips and play suits.

h. Comfort, fit, durability and length of service were the items
considered of major importance in the.selection of clothing for
children. Beauty and color were not considered too important to
these consumers.

5, Clothing reserved for party and dress wear tended to cost more
than that worn for everyday. Party dresses were about twice the
price of everyday dresses, regardless of the income group.

6. Price maintained a prominent place in the mind of the consumer.
7. SaleSpersons were asked for their judgment when the consumer
was in doubt about her selection.

8. Shoes and articles of clothing were bought large enough for

them to be worn for a long period of time.

9. Consumers showcd a tendency to analyse their needs and difficulties

 

 

 

 

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and tried to buy to fulfill the needs and so avoid the difficulties

they had had from previous buying.

lO. Consumers have had, and continue to have, trouble with the fit
of garments that are sized by age.

11. There was a tendency to leave the younger children at home

and to take several sizes of garments out of the store to try on
the child, rather than to risk getting the wrong size.

12. Older children were allowed some choice in the selection of
their clothes.

Peanort 19 investigated in 1952 the clothing needs and interests of

27S sixth and seventh grade girls who were approximately twelve and

thirteen years of age. She reached the following conclusions:

19.

20.

l. The largest percentage of the girls received no clothing
allowance, and no budget plan was followed by most of the families.
Clothing expenditures indicated that the girls Spent more than
their share of the family clothing allowance.

2. The mothers assisted the girls with selection, purchase and
care of clothing more than any other member of the family.

3. The majority of the mothers did home sewing to meet clothing
needs.

h. The girls in the sixth and seventh grades were beginning to
become interested in clothing and its construction.

Pennington 20 made an economic study of children's clothing for

Peanort, E. K. A Study of the Clothing Needs and Interest of Two
Hundred SeventyeFive Sixth and Seventh Grade Girls in Portsmouth,
Virginia. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Hampton Institute, 19'52, Sh pp.

Pennington, M. M. An Economic Study of Children's Clothing Ages Two
to Seven Inclusive. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State
College, l93h, 83 pp.

 

 

 

two to seven year olds in l93h. Of the 92 children included in the

study, forty-five were girls and forty-seven boys. The conclusions
of this study were:

1. Similarities of the wardrobe were greatest for the pre-school

child.

2. Mothers with the older and larger families did the least sewing.

There was a correSponding decrease in the number of home-made

garments with an increase in the age of the child.

3. Boy‘s averaged only three home-made garments compared to 11.5

for the girls.

h. In this study, more aticles of clothing were made over per boy

than per girl, the boys averaging two and the girls one per child.

5. The boys possessed nearly twice as many previously worn garments

as the girls, averageing 8.h while the girls averaged h.S each.

6. The number of handed down garments in the girls' wardrobes

increased with their ages.

7. In most cases more was spent on a girl's wardrobe than for a

boy's.

In a study of consumer purchases of seventh, eiehth, and ninth
grade boys and girls by Reed 21 in 1916 records were kept of their
entire purchases for one year. While these young adolescents kept
records of all the purchases they made, only the purchases that refer

to clothing will be reviewed. The conclusions on clothing purchases

were 3

.k

21. Reed, Kathryn E. A Study of the Consumer Purchases of A Selected
Group of Young Adolescents. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Florida
State University, l9h6, 78 pp.

 

 

 

 

1. Clothing purchases were reported by more girls than boys; however,

the difference between the preportion of boys and girls reporting
was found to be significant only in grade nine.

2. Purchases of ninth grade girls were more diversified than those
of eighth grade girls. Only two clothing purchases were reported
in the entire seventh grade.

3. Instructions for buying clothing, if given, were usually very
general, consisting only of the price to pay, the color to choose,

or the type of material to get.

King 22 studied the role of clothing in family relationships in
l9h9. There were thirty girls between the ages of thirteen to nineteen
included in this study. Her investigation revealed that clothing gave
teen-age girls a sense of personal satisfaction as well as social status
if they were allowed to choose the clothing which they felt conformed
to their group standards. Clothing frustrations, among the adolescent
girls interviewed, stemmed from the imposition of a stardard of dress
which was in conflict with the standard of their group.

An investigation of the problems of 2000 normal adolescent girls
by Hertzler 23 in l9bO showed that twenty-one percent felt that their
clothes were not adequate for their needs. For some, this lack of
preper clothing gave rise to feelings of inferiority. Others felt that

they were kept from joining the group because of lack of clothing.

—‘

22. King, Bernice. A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relation-
ships in Twenty-Five Selected Families. Unpublished Master's Thesis,
Michigan State College, l9h9, 631 pp.

23. Hertzler, Alvenda E. Problems of the Normal Adolescent Girl.
California Journal of Secondary Education. 15 (February 19h0),
pp. 1111-119.

 

"_

 

Leask 2b and Rosner 25 in 1953 did similar studies on the clothing
preferences and buying practices of high school girls. Leask found that
the majority of the girls purchased the bulk of their apparel ready-made.
The girls' choices in clothing were influenced most by clothing ads in
neWSpapers and store window displays; secondly, by their parents and
thirdlygby classmates. In making decisions, the majority of the girls
considered their mother‘s advice and wishes as important. The girls|
shopping independence varied inversely with the price of the garments.
There was also contradictory behavior in their wanting both parental
approval and independence. A majority considered suitable design, price
and color as essentials of a satisfactory purchase. The downtown
department stores were shopped more frequently than other types of
stores. Eighty-five to ninety-five percent of the girls tried on major
apparel items before purchase and about half of the girls were interested
in items which had been reduced in price. The girls' social activities
were found to be basic to their selection practices and the satisfaction
they received from the items of apparel. Their social participation
was found to be a limiting factor in terms of what garments they wanted
and whether or not they considered their wardrobe adequate.

The findings of Rosner's 26 study were similar. Most of the high
school students independently purchased most of their own clothing.

Neither they nor members of their family constructed an appreciable

2h. Leask, Grace J. A Survey of the Clothing Preference and Buying
Practices of 100 Girls of West Division High School in Milwaukee,
Wisconsin. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College,
1953, 117 pp.

25. Rosner, Anna T. A Survey of the Clothing Preference and Buying
Practices of 100 Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Illinois.
Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College, l95h, 1&8 pp.

26. Ibid.

 

 

 

 

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16

aamount of girls' apparel. A high percentage of students indicated a

Ineed for investigations on sizing and standardizations of sizes for

“teen-age garments. A high relationship was evident between expressed

preferences in color, style and type of garments and the garments which

constituted the wardrobe of these girls.

Holmblade 27 investigated the clothing practices of high school

girls and their families in a selected community in l95h. The conclusions

of this extensive study were:

_‘

27.

1. Many of the pupils believed that their wardrobes were inadequate.
However, very few thought that they lacked clothes for working
around home; the deficiency as they saw it was in clothes to wear
for school and for good.

2. These teen-age girls appeared to get ideas from the clothes
they wanted from many sources: catalogues, store windows and the
girls' own friends were cited by four-fifths or more of the girls.
3. Slightly over a third of the pupils reported that handed-down
garments had been added to their wardrobes in the past year.
Handed-down and made-over garments were more frequently described
by the pupils as their least liked garments than as their best
liked ones.

h. On the whole the pupils in homemaking desired the approval of
their parents for their clothes. They also tended to wear the type
of clothing for working around home, for school and better wear

that was preferred by their parents for these situations.

Holmblade, A. J. A Comparative Study of the Clothing Area of the
Secondary Homemaking Cirriculum in a Selected Community and Re-
lated Beliefs and Practices of Families in that Community. Un-
published Doctoral Thesis, Michigan State College, l9Sh, 262 pp.

 

(V.

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5. Generally speaking, there seemed to be more agreement between

mothers and daughters concerning the usual types of garments Worn
by the girls for various situations than there was concerning
preferences for style and color.

6. It was not the general practice to make long-time plans for
meeting the clothing needs. Rather, the needs were cared for as
they arose. Hewever, it did appear to be the practice in many
families to get new clothes for the beginning of school in the fall.
7. Gifts of clothing were often given for birthdays and holidays.
8. Many families planned to take advantag: of month-end or year-
end sales. Such long-time planning as was done by these families
concerned the purchase of such large items as coats.

9. In almost three-fourths of the families some home sewing had
been done for girls and mothers. The great majority of all the
garments made were skirts, blouses, dresses and aprons.

10. In a great many of the families there were alterations or
making over of clothing. The most common type of alteration
reported was the lengthening or shortening of garments.

11. Many of the pupils and parents who sewed said they did so
because they liked to. They viewed home sewing as a way of getting
clothes more economically. Relatively few pupils or parents looked
on home sewing as a way of securing color, style or fit in clothes
which the ready-to-wear market did not provide.

12. Lack of time for sewing was a reason given by nearly all of the
parents who did not sew at home. Others said they did not like to

sew and that they did not know how to sew well enough.

 

 

 

 

18

In a study of practices followed by consumers in buying large

expenditure items, Van Syckle 28 found that:

I. In planning and purchasing clothing items for children under
twelve years of age, the mother participated in the planning and
selection fifty-seven percent of the time, mother and father
twenty-three percent of the time, mother and child seven percent
of the time, and mother, father and child ten perent of the time.
2. The values wanted in children's clothing were rated in
importance as follows: durability; appearance; efficient or
satisfactory performance; ease or low cost of upkeep; suitability
to the situation in which it is to be used; and meeting a Specific
personal preference.

3. The extent of investigation before purchasing ranked in the
following order: shopping around or "looking;" advertising;
salesmen, friends or relatives; and articles read about the item.
h. .Fifty-eight percent of those investigated remembered information
on the label of children's clothing. The majority of the consumers
had a definite price in mind when they went to purchase clothing.
Over half paid the price that they had originally expected to pay.

In a study of family clothing supplies in the Minneapolis-St. Paul

, 2
area in 1951 9 the number of garments owned increased with the age of

h

28.

29.

Van Syckle, Calla. Practices Followed by Consumers in Buying
"Large-Expenditure" Items of Clothing, Furniture and Equipment.
Michigan State College, Agricultural Experiment Station, Technical
Bulletin 21;, 1951, he pp.

__‘ Family Clothing Inventories by Age - Studies of Family
Clothing Supplies, Preliminary Report No. 3. United States
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., 1951, 29 pp.

 

 

 

 

19

the child in all three of the age groups {2.5, 6-11 and 12-15 years of

Elge) included in the study. In this same study 30

attention was given
't0 the types and amounts of clothing acquired from other sources than
ready-made. Gift clothing was by far the most important single supple-
mental source. Gift clothing made up a fourth of the total clothing

in a girls‘ wardrobe. Popular gift items were dresses, blouses, coat
sweaters, pajamas and slips. Over sixty percent of the girls in the
Minneapolis-St. Paul families studied had one or more home-made articles
in their wardrobes. However, in terms of all clothing acquired during
the year, home-made clothing was relatively unimportant. It ranked far
below gifts as a source of clothing.

Girls were the ones in families most likely to acquire made-over
garments. However, only one-fifth of the girls acquired one or more
made-over garments. Snow suits, suits, separate jackets and separate
skirts were the clothing items most likeLy to be handed-down to girls.
A fifth of the girls in the Minneapolis-St. Paul study received one or
more handed-down garments during the year.

The average expenditure fer girls' clothing in this study 31 for
all families was $8h.OO per year. As the family income increased the
amount spent for girls' clothing increased. There was a difference in

the total amount spent for clothing between the rural and urban families.

‘

30. Family Clothing - Gift, Homeamade, Handed-down - Studies
of Family Clothing Supplies, Preliminary Report No. 5. United
States Department of Agriculture, washington, D. C., 1951, 18 pp.

31. Family Clothing Purchases by Income - Studies of Family
Clothing Supplies, Preliminary Report No. 2. United States Depart-
ment of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., 1950, 23 pp.

 

 

 

 

 

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7F‘or girls between six to eleven years of age the farm families Spent
€362.58, while the urban families spent $91.12 per year. .

A study of family expenditures for clothing for urban and village
families in lth 32 showed that families living in small cities tended
to spend more for clothing than villace families of comparable incomes.
Urban-village differences in clothing styles are less marked today than
they used to be; however, some differences in consumption patterns,
including clothing consumption still remtin. Urban girls tend to own
more clothing items than village girls. Home sewing was done more for
girls in village families than for urban girls.

Clothing expenditures for girls six to twelve years of age in farm
families tended to be somewhat less than urban-village families of
comparable incomes. 33 It was also noted that the clothing expenditures
for girls of this age group increased as the income for farm families
increased. Grade-school girls of the more well-to-do farm families had
about half again as much to Spend on clothing as did these farm families
of lower income.

The annual clothing expenditure for a girl eight years old as set

’ fbrth by the Heller Committee 3b in l9h6 was l.h percent of the total
living cost or budget of an executive family of four having an income

of $12,000 or more per year. For a white-collar worker‘s family of

 

32. Family Expenditures for Clothing - Urban and Village Series
United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. 0., Misc.
Pub. h22, 19h1, 329 pp.

33. Family Expenditures for Clothing - Farm Series. United
States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. 0., Misc. Pub. h28,
19hl, 387 pp.

3h. Quanitity and Cost Budgets for Three Income Levels. The
Heller Committee for Research in Social Economics, University of
California Press, Berkeley, Calif., 19h6, 107 pp.

   

 

 

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{four having an income of $5,000 per year it was 1.9 percent of the

isotal living cost or budget. A wage-earner's family of four where the
:income was $h,000 per year, 1.7 percent of the total living cost or
budget was the amount allowed for an eight year old girls' clothing
exnenditure.

In an investigation of clothing supplies of farm families in

MiSSiSSiPPi in 19h?, 35 it was recognized that the social import was

a decisive factor in the selection of clothing. The individual‘s

concept of what is acceptable in his social setting influences his

choice of wearing apparel. In this study home sewing played an

important part in most wardrobes for the grade-school girl. About

sixty percent of the clothing supplies had the majority of "best" dresses
and suits made at home. A large portion of the outer garments for the
grade-school girl was not purchased new by the family. Most of them

were gifts, home-made, re-made or hand-downs.

In an investigation of the clothing practices among low-income
families in 19hl, Thompson and Jelks 36 found that over half of those
interviewed always made girls' house dresses, better dresses and under-
wear at home, while less than a fourth sometimes made girls' house
dresses, better dresses and underwear at home. of the garments that
were never made at home, girls' coats and underwear were most frequently

listed. When asked why they sew, eighty-four percent of the homemakers

35. Bowie, Alice and Dickins, Dorothy. Clothing Supplies of Socially
Participating White Farm Families in Mississippi. Mississippi
Agricultural Experiment Station, State College, Mississippi, Tech.
Bul. No. 30, 19112, 51 pp.

36. Thompson, H. M. and Jelks, V. F. Clothing Practices Among Low-
Income Families. Journal of Home Economics. 33 (February 19hl),
DU. 780

 

 

 

 

 

 

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thought they saved money, seventy-five percent got a better quality

garment for the money Spent, fifty-five percent enjoyed sewing, forty-
five percent could get a better fit, and seventeen percent thought a
homemade garment had better style. In answer to the question, "Why
are all garments not made at home?", forty-five percent thought it was
cheaper to buy certain types of garments ready-made, thirty-nine
percent did not have time to sew, fifteen percent said garments were

given to the family, and five percent did not like to sew.

 

 

 

 

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v.1 ‘3 __.‘_'4—- -

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER III

METHODS AND PROC L'IDURES

The questionnaire or schedule and the garments to be used in the
personal interviews in this study have been selected to secure specific
information from the mothers regarding their family practices in making,‘
buying and using clothing for their eight to twelve year old daughter.
Their opinions and preferences for specific garments are also requested.

The schedule has been divided into parts. Part I consists of
general questions pertaining to the kind and extent of home sewing as
well as the extent and practices in purchasing ready-toawear clothing
for their daughter. Part II consists of specific questions on the
mother's expressed preferences in style, color, fabric, etc. with
her projected choices based on actual garments shown her. The garments

from which these selections are to be made include: three groups of

four dresses each. One group is comparable in type or style as well

as price. A second group represents dresses from different price levels
and a third group comprised of dresses which were made by the investigator
and.which are comparable in type and price to the ready-to-wear dresses
(If group one. Likewise, there is a fourth group consisting of co-
ordinated blouses, sweaters and skirts, and a group of coats which

vary in type, style and price.

The garments in this study are limited to outerwear apparel items,

and in so far as possible, are selected from a medium price range.

 

 

 

h m
T'—
_. . v i

“———-——:

 

 

 

 

FEfter surveying the local stores carrying girls' clothing, the above
jourchases were made from two stores: one a large department store and
“the other a specialty shop. It is recognized that there are many
'variables such as fabric, design, color, findings, etc., but the styles
selected are those which are regarded as typical of the fabrics, designs,
colors, findings, etc. in greatest availatility in the local market. It
is recognized that the nature of fashion goods represents many variables.
Selections of garments for this investigation are made so as to minimize
the number of variables but at the same time present enough variables

to represent a realistic buying situation for the consumer.

In order to provide information to the interviewee, a tag will be

attached to each garment which shows its code number and purchase price.

The dresses will be coded with the letter "D," the separates with "S,"

and the coats with "C." The garments within these groupS'will be assigned

a number. The tags will be secured to the blouse on the right shoulder
at the neckline and to the skirts at the waistline on the right side.

In this way all identification tags are uniformly placed and readily

 

0.. '3‘! '

seen. Where price is a consideration in the selection of a garment, the
tags are easily visible to the respondent. The specific stores from
which the garments are purchased is not indicated to the interviewee.
{The price of the homemade garments include only the cost of the
materials used .

Since one of the primary purposes of this pilot study is to pre-
test the questionnaire, the materials used and the methods of present-

ation, some questions, garments and techniques included are purely

.L'vi

eXpe riment a1 .

\c

 

 

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l

 

 

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25

In order that additional i ens suggested Lythe respondents may be
tincorporat d in the revised schedule, a number of "open-end" questions
Eire included so that verbatim opinions and answers can be recorded.
.Another reason for the use of "open-end" questions is to avoid, whenever
possible, suggesting the answer to the interviewee.

The entire schedule is designed to be administered within two
hours. A copy of the complete schedule is to be found in the Appendix,
pages 98 to 113. Sketches and descriptions of the garments used in the
interview are incorporated in the discussion of the findings.

Inasmuch as clothing preferences are subjective in character, a
panel of five persons passed judgment on each specific garment chosen,
thus minimizing individual preferences. Both garment selections and
interview questions are based on the combined judgment of faculty and
graduate students from the Clothing and Sociology Departments. Because
this panel consisted of both men and women with varied training and
background, it is believed the relevancy and clarity of the questions
and garments were, in a sense, pre-tested.

Immediately following the interview the investigator will edit the
information obtained during the interview so that actual meanings and
implications can be obtained in their entirety. An assumption is made
that in any interview when material is recorded, significant data may
be overlooked if not edited immediately.

The investigation for this survey will be carried on in Lansing,
Michigan, during the winter of l9Sh-19SS. In order not to delay

interviewing for the larger study, the sampling in this pre-test will

be limited to ten families.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

—-.—‘

The sampling procedure is that recommended by the Sociology

Ikepartment which has conducted a number of surveys in the Lansing
z»rea. It will be based on United States Census data that divides
'the city of Lansing, Michigan, into socio-economic areas. These census
tracts were ranked by the Sociology Department according to the percent
of white collar and manual workers in each tract. This is based on
published census reports plus additional detailed information from
the United States Bureau of the Census. Such information has been
used as a basis for selecting samples for much of their own research.

A random sampling is to be drawn from the areas numbered 25, 27
and 28 as shmm on Chart I, page 115 in the Appendix. Area 25 is one
of the census tracts which has the highest percent of white collar
workers, highest income and highest education. Areas 27 and 28 have
the lowest percent of white collar workers, lowest income, and lowest
education. Each city block in the designated areas is numbered, see
Chart II and III, pages 116 and 117. The total numbers are to be put
into a box and individual numbers then drawn. Since each number
represents a city block, one dwelling unit is to be selected within
this block. The third dwelling unit from the southeast corner of
the block is to be the first choice for contact. The family in this
dwelling unit will be visited to ascertain whether or not they have a
daughter between eight and twelve years of age. If this dwelling unit
is ineligible the dwelling unit to the left will be the second choice
for contact.

Eligibility of the family is to be determined by the interviewer

at this initial contact. If the family is eligible the interviewer will

 

 

———. W- :-

 

 

 

 

‘—C
-- ~_.___. <r_,-___—___-

‘27 “'-

tkuen give a more detailed explanation of the study and invite the
nwyther's participation. At this initial contact the interviewer will
ixadicate the expected length of time for the interview, that all
'information will be confidential and that actual garments will be used '
as a basis for questions as to their preferences. A c0py of the
schedule will also be shown to the mother so that she may know the
nature of the questions to be asked. This procedure implies having
the interview at the first contact if at all possible; otherwise an
appointment for a later time is to be arranged.

The use of twenty-nine garments in the interview situation
necessitates experimentation with and development of methods and
procedures for transporting and displaying the garments during the
interview. A more detailed explanation of the methods and procedures
developed can be found in the discussion of findings, pages 35 to 36.

For the purpose of measuring the social status of the families
interviewed, a modification of Warner's Index of Status Characteristics
will be used. 37 The scores from this index is based on occupation,
house type, dwelling area and source of income, with the total score
translated into social class. In this study, only house-type and
dwelling area will be used as warner concluded "that the size and
condition of the house and location of the dwelling area are the
most objective criteria and the easiest to judge." 38 The kind of
house in which a person lives is related to his social status. A

37. warmer, W. L. Social Class in America.
Inc., Chicago, Illinois, 19h9, 27h pp.

38. I-OC. Cit.

Science Research Associates,

 

 

‘fi—‘fifia—rx V‘-

 

 

 

 

 

 

'vfi—

 

 

‘measurement of the difference between the houses in a community can

be a rough and indirect measure of the social standing of the occupants.
warner's house-type scale contains seven ratings from "a large

house in good condition with adequate grounds" to "all houses and

apartments in bad condition." The numbers from one to seven refer

to the size of the house, while the letters from A to E refer to the

condition of the house. With this classification twenty-five different

ratings are possible. The score sheet for these ratings is to be

found on page 113 of the Appendix.

In order to rate the house the investigator decides in which of
the twenty-five categories it best fits on the basis of its over—all
appearance and size, and then.assigns the rating of that category.

When the investigator has the entire scale before her and is fairly
well acquainted with the community under study, she can classify the
houses with little difficulty.

It is also commonly accepted that a person's geographical position
in the community reflects his social position and economic status.
Warner's dwelling area scale has the following ratings: (1) Very high,
(2) high, (3) above average, (h) average, (5) below average, (6) low
and (7) very low. In this classification ratings range from "selected
residential area of the highest repute in the community" to "slum areas
of the community, neighborhood in bad repute," see page 113 of the
Appendix. In order to classify areas on the basis of this scale, the
investigator must first acquaint herself with the neighborhoods within

the areas to be surveyed. Since the dwelling area scale has seven

 

 

d9

categories, the investigator should determine the specific area which
is average in the community. It is then possible to rate dwelling

areas above and below the established average.

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER IV

DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS

This study is essentially a pilot study for a more comprehensive
Experiment Station project on family preferences and practices in the
purchase and use of selected items of apparel for girls eight to twelve
years of age. The sampling for interviewing consisted of ten families
chosen at random. As this study constitutes a pre-test for a more
comprehensive study, it was thought that a random sample of ten families
would be adequate for this pilot study. One of the primary objectives in
this investigation was to determine whether the schedule, methods and
materials would be feasible for use in the larger survey.

Because of the small sampling no statistical analysis can be drawn
on such limited data. However, observations and generalizations can be
made on problems that were encountered in this investigation and recom-
mendations suggested for changes which should be considered before under-
taking the larger survey.

The Sampling

One of the major problems encountered in this pre-test was locating
and contacting families that had a daughter between eight and twelve years
Of age. The random sampling procedure based on the census data for Lansing,
Michigan, was only moderately satisfactory. This sample was designed to

cover two socio-economic groups, namely; white collar and manual workers.

 

 

 

 

Every effort was made to obtain interviews from each eligible dwelling

'unit encountered in the random sampling. However, only fifteen families
out of the sixty-two direct contacts made were found to be eligible for
this study. Two refusals were encountered and three of the other eligible
families indicated a willingness to participate but for various reasons
could not be interviewed in the near future, see Table I. The sixty-two
direct inquiries and visits do not include nineteen calls where the families
were not at home. In most cases three calls were made at these nineteen
homes before excluding them for eligibility in this study. In three
instances, where a number was drawn for a city block, there were no homes
located within this block. A total of 311 miles were driven in order to
obtain the planned number of ten eligible families.

Of the sixty-two direct inquiries and visits, eleven of the families
contacted had no children; nineteen had children under eight years of age;
seven had daughters over twelve years of age; and seven had no daughters.
The accompanying table shows the child-composition of the sixty-two families

contacted in the two areas.
TABLE I
Child-Composition of the Sixty-two Contacts
Highest feroent Fighest Percent

 

Manual Workers hite Collar Wbrkers

 

 

 

 

 

- Area 27 and 28* Area 25* pg
contacted Inquired of Contacted Inguired of
j Neighbor Neighbor
Ineligible
No house in block 1 2
Not at home 3 16
No children or boys 5 3 '6 h
Girls under 8 5 3 6 5
Girls over 12 2 1 1 3
Eli ible
Interviewed S 5
Refused 2
Indicated willingness 3
(Mother works nights,
family ready to leave on
trip, daughter ill)
* See page 115 Total 26 7 l 36 12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the ten eligible families included in the sampling, five of the

:family heads were manual workers and five were white collar workers.

Interview Procedure and Eguipment

 

Of the ten mothers interviewed, all showed interest and genuine
concern about their daughter's preferences and problems relating to
clothing. While the mother was the individual designated to be inter-
viewed, there was one interview in which a pre-teen age daughter
participated. At four of the interviews small children were present and
inevitably caused many interruptions. In three interviews other members
of the family were present during a part of the time.

The length of the interview ranged from one hour and twenty-five
minutes to two hours and fifteen minutes. Where small children or others
were present during the interview their interruptions prolonged the time
necessary for its completion.

TABLE II

Summary of Eligible Interviews

 

 

 

 

 

Code No. Date Length Remarks
1 December 7 2 hrs. Daughters came from school
Tuesday' as the interview was ending
2 December 8 2 hrs., 15 min. Grandmother present for last
wednesday part of interview. Mother
and grandmother wanted to
"visit."
3 January 11 2 hrs., 10 min. Part I of schedule
Tuesday
January 1h Part II of schedule. Two
Friday small boys present
h January 18 2 hrs., 15 min. Three small children present
Tuesday
5 January 20 2 hrs., 5 min. Two small children and grand-
Thursday mother present.

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

33
TABLE II (Cont'd)
Code No. Date Length, Remarks
6* January 19 1 hour, h5,min. Pre-teen daughter helped
wednesday make selections. Father
and son watching television
7 January 27 1 hour, hS min. A small boy that played
Thursday quietly.
8 February 1 1 hour, 30 min.
Tuesday
9 February 2 1 hour, 25 min. Husband home for lunch during
wednesday first part of interview
10 January 31 1 hour, 25 min. Part I of schedule
Monday
February 8 Part II of schedule
Tuesday

 

 

 

 

 

 

*-Mother works during day and asked investigator to return for an
evening interview.

After several interviews the investigator became more skilled in
handling the equipment and showing the garments on which the second part
of the schedule was based. She also became more familiar with the sequence
of the questions and was thereby able to keep the interview proceding
more smoothly and rapidly. Another factor which influenced the length
of the interview was the tendency of the mother to "visit" about her
famiLy's clothing problems. This was especially noted during the first
part of the interview in which the questions were not as specific or
detailed as those in Part II. Garments that had been made or purchased
for anyone in the family were often brought out for the interviewer to
399- Indirectly, the mother sought approval for them. It was found
that in the second part of the interview schedule in which actual garments

were shown, it was easier to hold the mother's interest and for her to

concentrate and respond to the specific question.

 

 

With one exception, all interviewing was done in the afternoon,

see Table II, page 33. The interviewer began house calls between

one and two-thirty o'clock. This timing was made in an effort to call

I <3n.the mother after the rush of the noon meal, but before any afternoon

 

activities had begun. When an interview could not be obtained before

two-thirty o'clock additional contacts wens postponed until the
following day because any interview begun after that time would continue
past four o'clock when the children would be coming home from school.

It was found impossible to contact and complete two interviews in an

| afternoon, so the required interviewing period was much longer than

anticipated.

The ten interviews covered a period of nine weeks. This was due

partly to Christmas holidays and partly to inclement weather. When it

was found that Christmas shOpping and other holiday activities conflicted
with obtaining interviews, the remaining ones had to be postponed until

after the holidays.- The inclement weather in January and February also

delayed completion of the required number of interviews. Mothers were

not receptive to having equipment and garments brought into their homes

during stormy weather. There were two such afternoons when no interviews

could be obtained. Monday was consistently found to be the poorest day

of the week for securing interviews.
Another purpose in this pre-study was to determine whether both
parts of the interview schedule could feasibly be given at one interview.

In two instances the mother had made previous plans for the afternoon

so the interviewer was asked to return another day to complete the second

part. In a few cases, the reSpondent showed signs of weariness or rest-

lessness at the completion of the first part of the schedule. However,

   

 

5

_—._~ _

.—
f...
5.5:“.

slim-ring game

flu: mother moved to the garments, taking them off the

order to examine them more closely.

Inade no effort to handle or examine the garments.

that lack of interest and energy in this case could be

‘physical condition.

 

35

nts usually revived her interest. In most of the interviews

disolay stand in
There was only one respondent who

The investigator felt

attributed to her
The thoroughness with which exch interviewee examined
the garments apparently varied with individual interest in clothing.
Another objective in this pre-test was the problem of devising some
practical method for carrying and displaying the garments to the inter-

Cloth garment bags similar to commercial car travel cases were

viewee.
made. The cloth provided more flexibility than plastic and the Wide
overlap in the center of the bag provided ease in inserting and removing

the garments and yet completely protected them. Cloth handles at both

ends made it possible to carry the bag as a traveling case. They were
lightweight and easy to handle and transport. Moreover, the garments

were not appreciably wrinkled. Each garment bag accommodated six to

eight garments, so four bags of different lengths made to correspond to
the garments were considered quite satisfactory for their intended use.
Drawings and specifications developed for these garment bags can be
found in the Appendix, page 118.

Displaying the garments in the home of the interviewee presented a

more difficult problem. The display stand which was used was felt to be
Onlar'moderately Satisfactory. It was made of three panels of peg-board

Which.were hinged so as to fold like a floor screen. There were supporting

leES'Which held the display stand at a 25° angle, thus enabling the garments

to be more readily seen. Drawings with Specifications are to be found in

the.kppendix, page 119. The total weight of seventeen pounds and the

 

 

 

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H _

‘— -J———qv.—

 

 

 

oveer-all folded dimensions of forty-eight by thirty inches proved to be
very awkward to handle; particularly in loading and unloading and carrying
through doorways. Moreover, some of the homemakers appeared to he
apprehensive when they saw its size. The investigator did not feel

that this experimental effort for showing the garments was practical and

does not recommend it for the larger study.

Data on the Families Interviewed

 

Warner's Index of Status Characteristics as a measure of social
status is a simple, inexpensive and objective measurement in which the
necessary infonnation can be acquired with a minimum of interviewing
time. A modified form of Warner's Index of Status Characteristics on
the house-type and dwelling area was used in this study.

This small sampling revealed that income was not a satisfactory
measure of social-economic status. Of the ten families in this study
only two indicated their annual income below $5,000. The eight families
in the $5,000 to $7,h99 income range represented widely diversified
occupations, see Table III. However, in reSponse to the question as to
the social class into which they felt they belonged, all classified
themselves as middle class families.

The general appearance of the area and the house in which these
families lived probably revealed more accurately their economic and social
status. The areas in which these families lived rated from "2", a high
Patirwg on the Warner Scale, to "6", the lowest. The rating of "2" was
given to the better suburban and apartment housing areas with adequate
ErOUHdS. Rating "6" was for areas considerably deteriorated and with a

depreciarting reputation but not yet classified as slum areas. This

reting scale can be found in the Appendix, page 113.

 

 

 

 

 

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37

Table III below summarizes the income range, occupation of the
father, employment of the mother and rating of house-type and dwelling
area of the ten families interviewed.

TABLE III
Income, Father‘s Occupation, Mother's Employment and

Rating of House-type and Dwelling Area of the
Ten Families Interviewed

 

 

 

 

 

 

Annual Father's Mother's Ratin of
Income Occupation Occupation Dwelling House-
Area Type
$5,000-h7,h99 Manager Shoe Store 2 1A
$5,000-t7,h99 Installer, Telephone Co. 3 2A
$5,000-37,h99 Bus Driver, Interstate Secretary 3 3A
(Full time)
$5,000—$7,h99 State Health Dept. Employe} b 3B
$5,000-87,h99 Trimmer-Die Sinker h 38
Forging Industry
$5,000-37,h99 Salesman h ID
$5,000.37,h09 Toolmaker, Automotive Industry 5 SC
$2,000-3h,909 Truck Driver 5 hD
Ihder $2,000 ‘ Deceased Social Security 6 hE
‘ and part time child
___ care

 

 

Only two mothers interviewed contributed to the family income either
‘Qy'full or part time employment. One mother was employed as a full time
secretary. The other respondent cared for children in her home. The
faict that more working mothers were not encountered in this survey may
luive been due to the fact that contacts were made during the hours in
VflliCh they were working. The investigator encountered one mother who
indicated a willingness to particpate but could not schedule an interview
as she worked at night.

Eight of the mothers interviewed had completed high school and two

had completed the ninth and eleventh grades. Two had vocational and

Professional training beyond high school.

 

 

 

 

38

In the families interviewed the number of children ranged from one
to four. Two of the families had but one daughter. Five of the daughters
in this study had younger sisters and/or brothers.

In seven cases the average age of the parents was between thirty
and forty. In two cases the parents ages were over forty. In one case
the parents were under thirty years of "do. The following table
summarizes the composition of the ten families interviewed.

TABLE IV

Family Composition of the Families
Interviewed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No. of
Children Number of Sibling Daughter's Parent's age
in family_ Brothers Sisters Postion Age Mother Father
2 o 1 oldest 11 35-39 35-39
2 1 0 oldest 8 25—29 25-29
h 2 l oldest 8 35-39 35-39
1. 1 2 oldest 11% 30-31; 35-39
3 1 1 oldest 9 35-39 tic-us
h 3 0 third 11%,- 35-3.n 35-39
2 1 O youngest 9 Over hS Over us
2 l O youngest lO DO-hS Over hS
1 o 0 only child 8 30-31; Deceased
___f 1 O 0 only child 12 35-39 35-39

 

 

 

The three eight year old daughters were all of the same height,
ftyur feet; but there was eleven pounds difference in their weight.
Chiere was a difference of three inches in the height of the two nine year
dlds and twenty-one pounds difference in their weight. The one ten year
old.girl weighed the same as the tallest nine year old hut was three
inches taller. The four eleven and twelve year old girls differed as
much as four inches in height and forty pounds in weight.

Even in this small sample the variation in the height and weight of

these ten girls indicates that the problem of securing clothing of the

right pronortion and size for the pre-teen girl is not a simple one.

 

 

:‘_

 

-..-.-
h“.

 

 

 

39

Six mothers indicated that they could not rely on an "age" size to fit
their daughter well. While girth measurements were not considered for
these ten girls, if such measurements had been taken it might have
revealed additional complications in securing proper fit. Table V shows

the height and weight of the ten girls in relation to their age and

 

grade allocation in school.
. TABLE V

Grade, Age, Height and Jeight of
the Girls in this Study

 

 

Grade Age; Height Weight
2 8 yrs. h ft. 60 lbs.
2 8 b " h9
2 8 h " 55
3 9 h ", 2 in. 67
b 9 h n 5 ll 88
S 10 h " 8 " 88
6 11%- u " 10 " 85
6 11%; S " 102
7 11 S " l " 125
7 12 S " 1 " llO

 

 

 

 

Even this small sampling points up the fact that a satisfactory
sizing system of children's clothes must be based on a practical and
lxagical classification of body types rather than age groups. The large
sisudy of body measurements done by the Bureau of Heme Economics, United
Sisates Department of Agriculture, in 1937 provided data for the establish-
rment of a standardized sizing system for children. 39 The Commodity
Standards Division of the National Bureau of Standards has COOperated

With the clothing industry in develOping Commercial Standards for use

—_

39 O'Brien, R., Girshick, M. A., Hunt, E. Body Measurements of American
Boys and Girls for Garment and Pattern Construction. United States

Efipartment of Agriculture, Washington, D. 0., Misc. Pub. 366, l9hl,
1 pp.

   

 

w

Ill: ..

.'

 

 

 

adj—‘—

 

 

 

‘!EgIIIIIIIE—__________________________________—_—— hO

in the manufacture of children's clothing. Their most recent publication,

CS 158-b9 (Model Forms for Girls' Apparel), suggests sizes for the
mannequins used by manufacturers in producing girls' apparel rather than
measurements of the finished garments. hO

Of the ten mothers surveyed only two indicated tha: they could find
garments in the local stores sized by "height, weight and girth" measure-
ments. One said that she looked for "teen" or "pre-teen" sized garments
for her eleven year old daughter as "they were longer geared."

Even with the Commercial Standard recommendations no sizing system
or definition has been universally accepted by manufacturers of children‘s
clothing. Each manufacturer originates his own sizing classification
and terminology with greatest controversy and confusion as to what
constitutes the difference in "girl," "sub-teen" and ”teen" age garments.
Styling seems to he the one factor which designates a garment as "girl,"
"sub-teen" or "teen," although there are variations in the basic measure-
ments used by the di ferent manufacturers.

In the majority of the families, the mother and her daughter jointly
SBlected her clothing. Mothers were more apt to select underwear, pajamas
arud play clothes as these items were seldom tried on before purchase. The
iirems most frequently tried on before buying were major outerwear items
as coats, suits, jackets and dresses. The daughters were sometimes
allowed to select sweaters, blouses and gloves. Joint selection of the
danghter's clothing seemed to be a satisfactory arrangement as eight of
the ten mothers indicated they did not wish their daughters to take more
responsibility in the selection of their clothes. It would be interesting

to know if the daughters shared these opinions.

ho Model Forms for Girls' Apparel. United States Department
of Commerce, Washington, D. 0., CS lS8-h9, 19h9, 13 pp.

 

 

The oldest girl in the family appears to have been given more
freedom in deciding what clothes she would wear for every day and for
special occasions. Of the five girls who were the oldest child in the
family, four either always or frequently decided what they would wear.

The majority of the mothers thought their daughter was satisfied
with the amount, style, quality, condition, color and fit of her present
wardrobe. There was apparently more dissatisfaction when the daughter
was an only child. The three mothers whose daughter was the oldest
child in the family thought their daughter was satisfied with her
present wardrobe. Two mothers indicated that her daughter would like
to have more clothes and the mother agreed that they should have more.
The girls that were the youngest child in the family were well satisfied
with their present wardrobes.

Age was also observed to be a factor if the girl was dissatisfied
with her wardrobe.' The four girls who were dissatisfied with the amount
Of clothes they owned were either eleven or twelve years of age. The
younger girls did not indicate such dissatisfaction. However, two younger
81113 indicated dissatisfaction with the style, condition and fit.

It was interesting to note that seven of the ten mothers thought
iflieir daughters should have additional clothing. In four of these cases
‘Uue daughter was satisfied. Items which the mothers thought were needed
included practically all categories of clothing.

Three of the mothers described their daughters as friendly and
sociable, three as moderately sociable, while four considered their
daughters quiet and reserved. Nine of the ten girls like to have people

notice or remark about their clothes. "Bashfulness" was the reason given

by the mother of the tenth girl. The reasons given for the other girls

 

 

‘were "girls like pretty or new clothes," "this is natural," "all girls
'want comnliments on their appearance," and "girls like to know they look
well."

Only one girl in the survey belonged to a school club or organization.
This twelve year old girl was a member of the student council. However,
six of the ten girls participated in outside organizations, namely;

Girl Scouts, Brownies or junior choir. Two girls took music hassons,
while one was enrolled for skating and swimming lessons.

Six of the ten girls went to church frequently, while the other four
attended occasionally. Nine attended the movies occasionally. While
no question was asked the mother as to how often her daughter watched
television, the interviewer noted that there was television in eight of
the ten homes so it is possible that the frequency in movie attendance
may have been affected by having television in the home.

The daughters' reading was confined almost entirely to children's
books and magazines such as American Girl, Children's Digest, Children's
Agtivities and children's books from the library. One mother volunteered
the information that her twelve year old daughter was losing interest in
fflyildren's Activities but preferred "funny books." Many of the mothers
cemented that their daughters "read a lot."

Two respondents thought their daughters were dressed a little better
'Uman their neighborhood friends while the other eight thought their
daughters were comparably dressed.

Five of the girls liked to dress-up in their mother's clothes for
play and the other five had dressed up in their mother's clothes when

Ypunger. It was noted that this follows an age classification above and

below ten years of age.

 

 

 

.
.

—W-v

 

 

._

 

.. A

 

 

 

 

“VJ

Each of the ten girls enjoyed wearing party clothes. Only one girl
borrowed clothing from someone else. When asked if there was anyme whom
their daughter imitated in her clothing choices, three of the mothers
said her daughter imitated schml friends. One said an older cousin
influenced her daughter's choices and rnother indicated a fourteen year
old aunt influenced her daughter.

All of the girls ate their lunches at home during the school week
and all walked to school. Other tranSportation seemed unnecessary as

all lived within a convenient walking distance from school.

Home Sewing Practices

 

All of the families interviewed in this study had adequate sewing
equipment. Regardless of income all ovmed a sewing machine. Three
fafldlies owned machines that were over ten years old, two had machines
between five and ten years old, and five had machines purchased within
the last five years. All of the women said their sewing machines worked
satisfactorily. Table VI below shows the type, age and make of the
sewing machines found in these ten homes and the income of these
respective families.

I TABLE; VI

Family Income and Type, Age and
Make of Sewing I'Tachines

 

 

 

Family Sewing Machines

4ncome hec. 'Treodle Cab. Port. Age Brand
332 ,OOO:$H, 999 x x Under? Racio
-§PS,OOO—$7,h99 x x Under 5 White
§§5,000--$7,h99 x x Under 5 Kenmore
195,OOO-I$7,2199 x x Under 5 Singer
f§,ooo-§7,h99 x x Under 5 American
435,000-497,169 x x S to 10 Singer
‘05,OOO-§7,1199 x x S to 3.0 White
35,000-‘397JL99 x x Over 10 Singer
$S,ooot$7,h99 x x Over 10 Minnesota

finder ¢2,ooo x x Over 10 Free

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of those machines purchased within the last five yars, two were

portable electrics and three were cabinet electric models. The two
machines which were five to ten yer=rs old were cabinet models, one

being a treadle and the other an electric.
Pinking shears and steam irons were the small equipment which they
considered most essential. Si): owned both pink’mg shears and steam

irons .

The six who 'inr’imted that they had a convenient cutting surface

reaareed the kitchen or dining table as s-zitable. Four would not

change their present sewing facilities and/or equipment as they regarded

the"! as adequate for their needs. Six respondents indicated that they

Wanted better shears, to buy a new sewing machine, or have a sewing
machine which could "do fancy stitchery." Other facilities desired
were a separate room for sewing, a table for a portable machine, or

linoleum floors for "easy sweeping up of sewing disorder."

Insofar as the investigator could determine through observation
and Questinning the respondents there was no relationship between
income and the amount of sewing done. Those who owned sewing machines
which were less than five years old, sewed more for their daughters and
other members of the family than those who owned older models of machines.

The daughter was the cane member of the family for whom the greatest

31110111“; of sewing was done. Six said they sewed for their daughters

frequently, while three said that they occasionally sewed for them.

Much less sewing was done in the home for the other members of the

family or for relatives. The frequency of sewing for the various

members of the family is shown in the following Table.

 

 

TABLE VII

Sewing Frequency for Family and Others

 

jamily Member Frequently Occasionally;

 

Father

Mother

Son

Daughter

Other relatives
Friends

O\f\)l-‘
wrwmuw

 

 

 

Even if their sewing facilities and equipment could be improved,
the majority indicted they would sew only "somewhat more" than they
do net: and none indicated they would sew "a great deal more" if they
could change or improve their sewing equipment and facilities.

The wardrobe items which the mothers preferred to make from new
fabric rank in this order: school dresses, play clothes, skirts,

blonSes, pajamas, dress-up dresses, housecoats and robes. Nine mothers

Preferred to make play clothes. Six preferred to make blouses, skirts,

and Daj amas .

trhe three reasons most frequently mentioned for making clothing
for~ tJneir daughters were money economy, better quality fabric and the
fact that they enjoyed sewing. Other reasons mentioned were that ready-
made garments required too many alterations, that their daughters
required special fitting or that in home sewing they can have more
becomingly styled garments.

When asked which clothing items her daughter preferred that she
“uflfla for her only one respondent designated a Specific item, play clothes.

All of the others made general comments such as, "daughter likes anything

mother makes," "likes anything new," "she is thrilled if mother makes

anything," and "she has no preference."

 

 

A

 

to

Four girls had garments in their wardrobes which had been made at
home which they wore infrequently or not at all. In two cases, the
garments were either outgrown or out of season. One girl didn't
"981‘ a. skirt and blouse because she disliked the material, while
another- had a grey jumper which she disliked because of its color.

E-ach of the ten girls had worn "hand-me-doxms." The chief source

of these clothes was cousins and friends, although mothers, sisters,
aunts

and neighbors were also sources. In the mothers' opinions

their daughters either had not exnressed their objections or were
indifferent to wearing "hand-me-down" clothing. Typical answers were:
"She doesn't mind," "doesn't object," "likes them," "enjoys wearing
them, " and "likes them just as well as other clothes." If the

daughters had been asked this Same question their response might have

indicated a more negative reaction.

Four mothers stated that they never "restyled" or "remade"
garments for their daughter, while one frequently "remade" and five

0c3C3asionally "remade" or "restyled" garments. The clothing items

which were "remade" were coats, skirts, blouses, playsuits and

jmpers. Those which were "restyled" included skirts, raincoats and

blouses. Of the six girls who had "remade" and "restyled" garments,

four wore them frequently and one occasionally.

Four mothers said they "restyled" and "remade" clothing for their

dauE‘thters primarily for financial reasons. The other two "restyled"

and "remade" clothing because they "wanted to do it" and "enjoyed

The "favorite" commercial pattern used in sewing for their daughters

Was Simplicity. This pattern was mentioned seven times, McCalls twice,

 

 

U!

{E with Advance and But terick each being mentioned once. The most
frequently checked reasons for selecting these specific patterns were
i
"this brand most available," "pattern fits better," and "sewing guide
F is easier to understand." Other reasons which they mentioned were '
i "has cutting guide for seam allowances," "size ten 'miss' fits my
daughter with no alterations," and "has styles which my daughter likes."

These home sewers wer; more apt to alter a commercial pattern to

 

improve fit rather than to change its design as seven frequently or

occasionally and three never altered the pattern in order to improve

the fit of the garment. However, only four altered patterns to change

the design and six said they never altered the pattern for that

Purpose .

 

Woolen dress material, cotton prints and corduroy were the three
fabrics selected as representative types which women use in their
home sewing. Seven respondents stated that they did not buy woolens.

The reason given for this was the difficulty in the maintenance of

woolen garments. In some cases the girl was allergic to wool. The two

who had bought woolen dress fabric purchased in the two to three dollars
per Yard price range.

Cotton prints were the most frequently purchased fabrics as each
or the ten mothers indicated that prints were available in the price

range in which they customarily purchased. None of the interviewees

Paid more than a dollar a yard for cotton prints. Seven said they

usually bought cotton fabrics in the seventy-five cent to a dollar a

yard price range. Three usually bought in the fifty to seventy-five

cent per yard price range and one mother commented that she sometimes

bought, cotton prints costing twenty-five to fifty cents per yard.

     

..-

"=5 ——.———wv

""""‘" 2.5—...

 

 

 

 

 

118

Four of the mothers customarily purchased corduroy in the dollar
to doll ar-fifty per yard price range. Three said they ciid not buy
corduroy while two others usually paid =2 dollar-fifty to a dollar-
seventy-five per yard, while another paid 7.52.95 a yard.

The newer synthetic fabrics such as nylon, orlon, dacron, dynel
and .acrilan had been used by six of the respondents in making garments

for their daughters. Only two said they had difficulty in handling

these fabrics. The difficulties they encountered were in the raveling
of seams, puckering during sewing and the tendency to slip in handling.
The factors that usually influenced the mothers in purchasing
piece goods were colorfastness, snnforization or other shrinkage
tr‘95'-~tfl'leht, special finishes such as crease resistance, the design of
the fabric, its color or texture, or because the fabric was on sale.
Question 2h which asked the mothers for the specific sewing
process they used in sewing ane the ones which they found difficult
is regarded by the interviewer as a poorly designed question. 3119

found it difficult to obtain answers which discriminated between the

construction process used and the specific process which had been

difficult. It was easier for the respondents to recall the construction

DI‘oeess which they found difficult. Difficulties indicated by the

reSwondents were the alteration and fitting of patterns, setting in

sleeves, inserting zippers, attaching collars and making buttonholes
and belts.

Nine of the ten mothers indicated that they would like to learn

more about sewing. Three said they would like to enroll in a sewing

class to learn Specialized techniques such as tailoring. The others

listed such processes as how to make belts, attach collars, change

 

 

 

h9

patt&31?n styles, learn an easier way to lay out the material and pattern
for (:iitting, and learning to use machine attachments. A few did not
indicate anything sp acific, but "just wanted to learn more about sewing."

The respondents usually figured out the actual cost of the garments
idlixzh they had made for their daughters. Five thought that they always
Sa‘fed money, while four thought they sometimes saved money in making
garments.

None of the girls sewed for herself, and many of the mothers

Cemented that their daughter was too young.

Ready-to—wear Practices

 

Many more items of the daughter‘s apparel were purchased ready-made
‘bhan were made at home. Table VIII summarizes their practices in making

or purchasing their daughter's clothinc.
TABLE VIII

Practices in Ready—to—wear rnd Home Sewing

of Specific Garments
Number making Number purchasing
garments at garments ready-made.
Garment home

 

 

Coats

Raincoats
Snowsuits
Jackets/blazers
School Dresses
Dress-up Dresses
Play Clothes
Sweaters

Skirts

Blouses
Robes/housecoats
Pajamas
Nightgowns

Slips

MHO‘WC‘O\ONF\OHOOH
oowmp-wmmc'oxrmrmo

 

 

 

 

 

 

“
”Q;
’1.

 

 

 

 

 

VI
0

TailOr‘8d items such rs coats, raincerzts, snowsnits, jwckets and blazers
were almost unanimously purchased ready-made. Knitted garments such as
underwear and sweaters were usu." lly purchased. Such items as school
dresses, play clothes, skirts, blouses and pajamas were the garments
which the majority of the mothers preferred to make. Evidently these
were the garments they considered easiest to make. Hwever, more
mothers preferred to purchase "dress-up" dresses than to make them.

In order of frequency the reasons given to the interviewer as
the factors which usually influenced them to purchase readjr-to-x-Jear
garments were; do not have tine to sew, dislike sex-:ingz, can see
becomingness of garment in ready-made, dislike "home-made" look of
garments made at home, can save money in buying ready-mades. Other

I‘EFiSaons mentioned were; lack of equipment or space to sew, garments

U

are more readily or easily bought, better workmanship in ready-made,
Wider choice of design and fabric, and don't know enough about sewing.
The items which the daughter preferred to have purchased ready-
made were coats, raincoats, dress-up dresses and slips. The only
item which she preferred that her mother make was play clothes. They
Were much more certain about specific items which they desired to
purchase than the items which they preferred to have made at home.

The mothers who most frequently purchased their daughter's school
dresses ready-made considered style, color, ease of care, fiber content
and cost of upkeep as the signifiCant factors determining their choice.
Price, name brand, and workmanship, while mentioned, were not given as

much emphasis.

Little information could be obtained as to the type of store in

Which they preferred to buy. No single store took precedence over

 

 

 

 

*fii.

< aim

 

 

 

another for a specific item. However, few mothers bought their
daughter‘s outerwear in the S¢-to--’.f>l.OO store. Reasons given for
purchasing in a department or chain store were practically the same,
namely; desired apparel available, lower prices and good quality
merchandise. Reasons given for specialty stores were convenient
location and good quality merchandise. For mail order outlets,
availability of desired sizes and inexpensive merchandise were listed
as reasons. There was: no one favorite store indicated by any mother.
Eight of the ten frequently or occasionally shopped in several Stores
before purchasing. This may indicate some dissatisfaction in finding
the desired merchandise in the first store in which they shopped.
The sizing system by "height, weight and girth measurements" for
girls' apparel was mentioned by only two of the eight mothers. The
majority of the respondents indicated that they were not acquainted
With this system of sizing. However, four said they could rely on
one "age" size of dress to fit their daughter satisfactorily. The
Sizes which were indicated corresponded with the age of the girl in

th is manner:

Garment size Age of girl
8 8 years old
it 11%- years old
10 9 years old
10 11% years old

In these four cases there was only one girl whose chronological age
corr‘eSponded with the "age" size of her garment. The others varied

from one to two and a half years, requiring a larger garment size than

their age int-icated.

 

 

The practice of trying on garments before purchasing indicated
that uncertainty and previous diSSatisfactions had been experienced.
Apparel items which were frequently tried on were suits, jackets a
dresses., All indicated they tried on coats. The items which the
daughters never tried on before purchasing were blouses, sweaters,
slips and slacks or blue jeans. Obviously, only the more expensive
apparel is tried on before purchasing to determine whether or not it
fits properly.

In answer to question 36 there were six mothers who stated that
they never purchased specific clothing items by brand name, while
four occasionally or frequently purchased by brand. name. However:
there were only five who listed specific br':nd names when asked to
name brands which they had. purchased. When shown a list of brand-
named garments available in the local stores there were seven respondents
who checked those specific brand names as the ones they had purchased
'for their daughters. Of the seven mothers who listed specific brand
names, none had found the garments unsatisfactory. Only one said she
never repeated purchases of brand named items.

Three mothers indicated they found it occasionally necessary to
return to the store some apparel items purchased for their daughters.
because the garment was either the wrong size or it fitted poorly.

The Other seven never found it necessary to return any apparel item
which they had purchased for their daughters. School dresses and skirts
were the items mentioned as having been returned either because of wrong
Size or poor fit.

Most of the mothers customarily purchased their daughter's winter

coats in prices ranging from $20.00 to $35 .00. Four thought $520.00 to

 

 

 

53

$25.00 Was sufficient, while three respondents said they paid $29.00 to
$35.00 for their daughter's coat. One mother said she paid between
$15.00 to $20.00. Two respondents indicated they had no set price range
in mind when purchasing a winter coat for their daughter.

The most popular price range for school dresses was between $3.00
to $5.00 for a majority of the mothers. A few were willing to pay as
much as $10.00, but one mother preferred to pay 4.53.00 or less for her
daughter's school dresses.

All of the mothers said they paid "$11.00 or less for cotton pajamas.
Hrwever, the majority preferred to pay under $3.00. As schor>1 dresses
and cotton pajamas were the apparel items which mothers preferred to
make at home, this may account for their reluctance to pay more for
these items in ready-to—wear.

The majority of the mothers thought $2.00 to £53.00 was sufficient
to may for a rayon slip. One mother was willing to pay as much as
$1.00, but three others preferred to pay under $2.00.

Purchasing at least a part of their daughters' wardrobe at sales
was the practice of eight mothers, five of whom said they did this

frequently. However, it was difficult for them to remember the type
Of Sale at which specific garments were bought. Coats were more often
bought at seasonal clearance sales than any other item of apparel.

Se‘ren mothers found sale purchases for their daughters either
completely or moderately satisfactory. Only two regarded them as less

S"’t’i-Sif‘élctory than purchases made at regular prices.
The majority of the respondents said they frequently found better

QUality merchandise at sales. The advantage of purchasing merchandise

which had been reduced in price were indicated by the respondents as

 

 

 

"better quality for less," or "same quality reduced in price," or "can
have two garments instead of one." The limitations which they mentioned
in purchasing merchandise which had been reduced in price were "selections
are limiterad in size and color," "can't always find style wanted," "sizing
is limited," "can't find desired color" and "seams are too narrow."

Only four mothers indicated a willingness to purchase garments for
their daughters that reduired alterations. Six said, in effect, that
they would be unwilling to purchase any garment that required alteration.
The types of alterations that four mothers said they would be willing to
do themselves were these: change a zipper in n. skirt placket, shorten
or lengthen a lined coat, shorten or lengthen a straight or full flared
skirt, shorten .6 belt or refit shoulders. Not one of these mothers said
she w0111c] be willing to reset the sleeves in a ready-made garment.

Gifts of clothing constituted an important source of apparel in
these ten pre-teen wardrobes as all h'ad frequently or occasionally
received clothing: as gifts. The clothing items most frequently given
to them were pajamas, blouses, sweaters, skirts and dresses. Grand—
parents and aunts were the persons from whom they received most of their
clothing gift items.

None of the pre-teen girls in this study received a clothing
allowc'fil’me from their family. While most of these girls earned their
own Sbending: money, only two spent a part of it for clothing. Only two
f8“milies out of the ten interviewed said they planned clothing expend-
itures for their family. In one case the daughter helped in the family

Planning», However, her assistance was limited to choosing her own

clothing with her mother controlling the price that was to be paid.

 

 

55

Four of the {ire-teen girls in the families inter-.Iiewed possessed
ready-made clothing items vhich were either infrequently or never worn.
It was interesting to note that two of these same girls also owned home-
made clothing items which were inf‘req lastly or never worn. The refidy-
made clothing that was not worn inclined school dresses, slacks, slips
and handed-down garments.

The types of garments that the girls preferred to wear, of course,
varied with the occ.a,sion. Their favorites for school and movies were
one piece cotton dresses, skirts with a blmse or sweater or a jumper
With n blouse. For better or Sunday; wear, a one piece taffeta or cotton
dress was preferred. A skirt Jith blue jeans, play clothes or a one
Piece cotton dress were the types of garments preferred for wear
"around the house."

The majority of the mothers emected their daughters to wear their
WthGI‘ coat for at least two years. Two of the girls owned two coats,
While two others owned a coat and a jacket. A winter coat with "let-
down" fBetures h=d been purchased by five of the respondents for their
daughters, but they were uncertain as to whether this feature, which
pr(”Med an additonal length of time in which the coat could be worn,
was jUStified in terms of its higher cost.

Preferences for Ready-to-Near Dresses
of awaried Price Range, Group A
A group of four dresses which varied in price were shown the

mothers and a series of questions pertaining to these dresses were

a . . . .
Sked for the purpose of obtaining her opinions and preferences as

 

 

56

to the design liked best, liked least, and the dress which she would
select for school wear. Questions pertaining to their launderability,
fabric quality and workmanship were also included. In order that

the Preferences and opinions of the reSpondents may have meaning

to the reader, illustrations and brief descriptions of each of

these dresses precedes the discussion of the findings.

Dress D-6

Red, blue and white plaid
dress with low waistline
and full gathered skirt.

Blouse has short cuffed

    
 

set-in sleeves and surplice
neckline. White piping on
the collar, cuffs, yoke

and low waistline. Machine-
Made "braid" arrows of navy
across the bodice and yoke.
Blue plastic belt

placed at natural

 

Waistline .

Price $3.98 Si ze 6

   

 

"Vi-aw

 

 

Dress D-lO

Navy blue dress with full gathered
skirt. Ffixain blouse with white pique
collar ark? cuffs piped with yellow.
Blouse and pockets hive stylized
floral design of flock printing.

Two patch pockets with buttoned
flaps. Sashbelt tied in back.

Shank buttons with rhinestone sets

on front opening and pockets.

Price $2.98 Size 12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

S7

 

Dress D-ll

Dress has a full gathered navy

blue skirt with a livht blue

woven stripe in the attached

shirtwaist blouse. Navy blue

tie at neckline, peter pan collar,

short sleeves with buttoned cuff.

Self-fabric belt. Elasticized
waistline across the back.

Price $5.95 Size 10

 

 

58

Dress D-lS

Dark brown cotton with full
gathered skirt. Blouse of
brown and white print. Peter
nan collar and bib inset of
white hique. Applied bending
of print on the collar. Velvet

string tie. Sleeves puffed at

 

top. Belt of brown plastic.

Price $1.08 Size 10

 

figferences for Design and Style
The navy and licht blue shirtwaist dress at $5.95 03-11) was the

design Or style best liked by four of the mothers. They gave these

reasons = "like the combination of two colors," "dress would be

attractive on my daughter who has long braids," "daughter would look

nice in it," and "dress has nice quality fabric." Only one mother

said She disliked this dress, although this was not dislike of the
deSign but of its light blue color.

The navy blue flock print at $2.98 (D-lO) was the preference of

three mothers. Reasons given by them were "will look best with blonde

hair," "like plain colors" and "like the flowers and the pockets."
Two m°thers, however, disliked this dress because "dark color will

collect lint in laundry," "too dark for a dress of that size" and
"not YODthful."

 

 

The red, blue and white plaid at $3.98 (D-6) was first choice of
two mothers because it was a plaid and they thought the material would

"stay neat looking longer." Of the three who disliked this plaid dress,

one said -it was "cut off grain," another said "daughter can‘t wear red"
and the third thought "neckline was unattractive."

The only mother who chose the dark brown cotton at $1.98 (D-lS)
as the design which she liked best indicated her perference was based
on the fact that the brotm color would go well with her daughter's
red hair. There were four, however, who disliked this dress because

they thought "it is hard to wash dark material," "material looks cheap,"

"poor quality dress" and "don't like style."
Eferences for School Near

The red, blue and white plaid at 1.53.98 (D-é) was the dress which
seven mothers selected for general school wear, although this dress
.was not especially liked or disliked as a design. Those who chose this
dress did so as they liked plaids and because they thought it would be
WaShable and serviceable for school.

Six indicated as much preference for the navy blue flock print
as for the navy and light blue shirtwaist. The reasons given for
their preferences were the same for both dresses, namely; "suitable
for Sch001," "would wash well," and "would give good service."
Brier-emcee for Launderability

The red, blue and white plaid (D-6) again scored high in respect
to its launderability. Six respondents thought this dress would keep

1138 appearance best through many launderings. Four mothers 5813 cted

the navy and light blue shirtwaist (D-ll) for its laundering quality.

 

 

60

The nalcy’ flock print (D-lO) and the dark br wn cotton (D-lS) were the
two dresses which the respondents thought would reauire special or
extra care in laundering. Their chief complaint was that the dark
COlOI‘S collect lint and fade during laundry. Four mothers disliked
the firijaestone buttons on the navy flock print as they thought the
sets tqcyuld fall out in laundering. One mother said she preferred
flat instead of shank buttons for ease of handling in washing and
iron inq. Two mothers thought that the "leather" backing on the belt
of the navy and light blue shirtwaist would not withstand washing.
”0 Others thought the velvet bow on the dark brown cotton was
unserv ice able .
_Prel ferences for Fabric Quality and workmanship

inum of the interviewees thought there was little or no difference
in the quality of the fabric used in these four dresses. Five thought
the: Ilavy'and light blue shirtwaist dress at $5.95 (D-ll) had the best
quality of fabric. Three could see no difference in the workmanship
in these four dresses, but four thought the navy and light blue shirt-
Waist at 5.35.95 (D-ll) had the better quality of workmanship.
Ef‘erence for Price

Of the ten respondents only three thought that some of these
dresses were priced excessively high for their quality. However,
each chose a different dress. The dresses eliminated because of
poor quality of the fabric used were the dark brown cotton at £51.08

and the red, blue and white plaid at $3.08. One mother stated that

she could not afford to pay 55.95 for the navy and light blue shirt-

waist (D-ll), although she liked it best.

 

 

 

When given a choice on how they would. spend $56.00 among these
four dresses, five chose to buy two dresses similar to the navy
flock print at $2.98 each. TWO chose to buy one dress at 35.95,
similar to the navy and light blue shirtwaist. One mother
preferred to buy three dresses similar to the dark brown cotton
at $1.98 . Another said she preferred to buy two dresses, one at

$3.98 and another at $1.98, similar to the plaid and dark brown

cotton .

_P_I:eferences for Dresses Made at Home, Group B

A group of four dresses were made by the investigator for
°°mPaPison with the four ready-to-wear dresses in Group A which
Varied in price. These home-made dresses were paired with the

reg(bf-made dresses and compared in terms of attractiveness, price,

quality of fabric and workmanship. They were then asked to indicate

preferences as to the one they would choose for general school wear.
They were also asked to select the dress which they thought would
be the easiest and the mosfi difficult to make.
The following illustrations and brief descriptions are for
the r'eslcier's information and to make the discussion of this group

°f dresses more meaningful. Prices given include only the cost of

mate pi 8.18 .

 

 

 

 

’W

at"

 

 

 

 
  
  
  
   
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
 
  
  
  
  
  
  

62

Dress D-8
Red, black and yellow plaid cotton
jumper dress H1th “ four gore

skirt. Dicker of yellow cotton.

 

Jumper has n buttoned Opening at
center back, set-in self—cuffed
sleeves a.d belt of self-fabric.

Cost to make $2.56 Size 12

 

Dress D-12
Circular skirt of orange
enfibossed cotton with orange
chambray blouse. Collar piped
with embossed cotton. Belt and
String tie of embossed cotton.
Bflxruse has peter pan collar
arKi set-in self-cuffed
Sleeves. Buttoned with
Orange and white
buttons.

Cost to make $53.30 Size 10

 

 

 

Dress D..17

Dress of grey glazed cotton
with navy and red figures.
Four gore skirt with two
patmzrl pockets. Short kimona
sleeves. Collar and pocket
flaps of white cotton. Back
opening and shoulder has trim
of rwed buttons. Belt of self-

fabric,

Cost; to make $2.h5 Size 8

‘
3
fl

 

  
  

 

   
  
  
   
  
  
  

63

Dress D-18

Printed cotton in a grey and
yellow stripe with a navy stylized
daisy design. Full gathered skirt,
self-fabric belt and pouch pockets
in the side seams. Blouse has set-
in bib, collar and cuffs of white
cotton. Tuck on the bib and back
opening trimmed with navy buttons.

Cost to make $1.78 Size 8

 

 

6h

Comparison of Group A and B

The four home-made dresses in this group compare favorably with
the ready—to-wear dresses in Group a. Five mothers thought these
home-made dresses were more attractive, while four thought them just

as attractive as those in the ready-to-wear "roup.

When the ready-to-x‘rear and home-made dresses were paired, the

home-mades were chosen in each case. This was true when design and

price was considered separately. The investigator is of the opinion
that the mothers did. not always consider the time and. effort involved
in making the dress when indicating their preferences.

Preferences for Fabric Quality and workmanship

In comparing the quality of the fabric of the dark brown cotton

(ID-15) and the home-made daisy print (ID—18), the ready-made garment

Was Chosen most often. when the two plaids (D-6 and D-8) were compared

fOI' both quality of fabric and workmanship, the home-made dress (D-B)

was chosen by the majority. However, there were four respondents who

thought there was little or no difference in the x-rorkmanship of these

two dresses.
Me for School Wear

In the home—made group the grey glazed print (D-l?) was the one
Which Was the best liked for general school wear. The glazed print
material influenced their selection as the reasons given for this

Dreference were "like glazed material," "looks fresher" and ”will look

better after lots of wear." Another consideration was the fact that

they tJ'lought this dress could be worn for both school and better wear.

 

 

_,.fi .

 

 

 

Enions of Sewing Skill

Nine of the mothers interviewed sewed for their daughters, and
seven of the. nine thought they could make a dress which would look
as well as the garments made by the investigator for this group.
The majority thought the grey glazed print (D-l'?) would be the
easiest to make as it was a simple design with kimono sleeves. The
plaid dress (D-8) was considered the hardest to make because of
matching: the plaid design and also because of the set-in dickey.

The investigator recorded the time spent in making each dress,
and found that while the grey glazed print -D-17) looked easy, it
recluired fifteen hours to make. In contrast to this the plaid (D-8)
required nine hours and fifteen minutes to complete. The other two
dresses, the daisy print (D—lh) and the orange embossed cotton (D-l2),

required ten and a half hours and eleven hours respectively.

Ereferences for Ready-to-Wear Dresses
of One Price Range, Group C

In Group C there were four dresses each of which cost $5.95. The
ten res'pondents were asked a series of questions designed to obtain

Opinions and preferences as to (1) the design which she liked best and

least, (2) the dress she would select for school wear, for Sunday 01‘

ll
better wear," and (3) the type of care she would give the various

(1 . .
Pesses in this group.

Drawings and brief descriptions of these four dresses in Group C

will enable the reader to better comprehend the mother's preferences.

 

 

 

 

 

Dress D-9

 

Light blue broadcloth with 5 full

gathered skirt, corded patch pockets
-. a! ."Jnd bit-ck plastic belt. Blouse is
I’ l”, I . ‘ sleeveless. The collar anc’ armseye
I ’ trimmed with white cording. A bow

/ - of narrow grossrrain ribbon.

Price $5.95 Size 12

Dress D_13

Brown and white checked acetate
taffeta dress with a full gathered
Skirt, a brown not ruffled underslip

and a Sash tie at back. Blouse has a

Simulated bolero trimmed with white

 

maChine-mh_de lace. Half of the melon

puff Sleeves and collar are of brown /' /

ne
t. The sleeves, peter Dim ' i

I
coll-"r and waistline are edged / / f \ \ ‘

with taffeta piping.

’ , i, ; “\
1’I'ice $5.95 Size 13 (h/ / 7” r t i k m

 

 

 

 

 

 

67

   
  
 
  
  
   
 
  
   

Dress D-ll
Dress hrs a fugl gathered navy blue

skirt with a light blue woven stripe

 

 

in the shirtwaist attached blouse.

 

I‘Ia‘ry blue tie at neckline, peter
pan collar, short sleeves with
buttoned cuffs. Self-fabric belt.
Elasticized waistline across the

back.

Price $5.95 Size 10

Dress D-16
Aqua dress trimmed with brown

and white machine embroidered

 

flowers on the blouse. The full
gathered skirt has inset pleats
of brown. The peter pan collar
and short set-in cap sleeves are
trimmed with cording of aqua.

Self-fabric belt. The material

 

is labeled "Dan River 'Wrinkle
Shed'" fabric.

Price $5.95 Size 8

 

 

 

fink l

 

 

 

8

Preferences for Design or Style

 

Of these four dresses the aqua embroidered cotton (D-lé) was the
design which was liked best by five of the ten mothers. The reasons

given for their preference were "like Dan River 'Jrinkle Shed' fabric,"

 

"can be worn for dress-up or school," "like color and decorative detail,"
"prettiest," "dainty" and "looks smart." Two indicated as their
preference the brown and white cheek acetate taffeta (D-13). Reasons
supporting their choice were "pretty style," "cute dress" and "daughter
wants a party dress." The two respondents who disliked this taffeta
dress said "don't like the design" and ”style toe babyish." Two other
reSpondents indicated that they preferred the desifin in the navy and
liaht blue sh‘rtwaist (D-ll). Their reasons were "looks like good
fabric," "easy to wash and iron" and "will take lots of wear." The
three who incicated that they disliked the shirtwaist dress gave as
their reasons "don't like stripe material," "don't care for light blouse""
and "don‘t like design in fabric." Only one mother chose the sleeveless
light blue broadcloth (D—S) as the dress which she liked best. She
gave as her reasons "straight lines would look well on chubby daughter."
The three reSpondehts who indiCated that they disliked this dress gave
as their reasons "style too old for daughter," "material won't look
well after washing," "don't like light blue broadcloth," and "won't
look neat after lots of wear."
jfipferences for School Hear

Each dress in this Troup was chosen by one or more as suitable for

general school wear, althOiqh the brown and wh‘te check acetate taffeta

(D-IB) was preferred more often for better wear. The embroidered aqua

 

 

cotton (D-lb) and the sleeveless lirht blue broadcloth (D-") were
indicated seven and eioht tines, respectively. The sleeveless light
blue broadcloth (D-Q) was selected for general school wear even though
it was not especially liked as a style. The reasons for their
preferences for these dresses for school wear were similar, namely;
"cotton material will wash and iron," and ”plain design."

Preferences for Sunday or Better Near

 

Eight of the mothers selected the brown and white check acetate
taffeta (D-13) for Sunday or better wear as first choice for her
daughter. Their reasons were "dressy," "looks like a dress-up dress,"
and "only dressy dress in group." Four chose the embroidered aqua
cotton (D-lé), giving such reasons as, "would look dressy, at least
when new," "dressy" and "will launder well."

Preferences for Care and Un-keeo

 

All of the respondents agreed that the brown and white check
acetate taffeta (D-l3) would require extra or special care. Most of
the mothers said they would have this taffeta dress dry-cleaned, but
two said they would hand launder it and one said she would press or
iron it with care.

Opinions concerning the serviceability of the findings or
decorative trim used on this group of dresses was equally divided. Five
had no objections to any of the findings or trim, while five objected
to some specific trimming. The objections to the sleeveless light
blue broadcloth (D-Q) were that the cording on the pockets would pull

off and that the belt would not launder. Che mother objected to the

shank buttons on the navy and liaht blue shirtwaist dress (D-ll)

 

 

’7W‘

 

 

 

 

 

70

as she thought they would not easily go through the wringor. The
objectxions to the brown and white check acetate taffeta (D-13) was
that 13he material would not launder and that the sash would tear
out cxf the side seams. The mothers thought the belt on the embroidered
aqua <:otton would not launder and that the embroidered flowers would
pucker in laundering.
PI‘Gferences for Price

Each dress in this group was thought by some of the mothers as too
higil in price. The sleeveless light blue broadcloth (D-9) and the

fiflDIvoidered aqua cotton (D-l6) were named more often than the others.

Preferences for Coordinated Separates, Group D
Coordinated separates were shown to determine preferences for
school wear, price preference and preference for a blouse and/or a
sweater to be worn with a specific skirt. The four skirts, five
blxyuses and five sweaters are illustrated and briefly described below

SC>'bhat the reader may visualize the garments.

 

 

Skirt 8—12

 

 

 

 

Grey, beige, pink and green

 

 

 

 

plaid of orlon and wool fabric.

 

Knife pleats with side zipper

Opening.

 

Price 33.00 Size 12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

71

 

(i

Skirt 8-13

Wine twool felt with a circular flare.
Belt lined with :rosgr'iin ribbon.
Flap (of patch pocket ornamented

with Inetallic thread, seed

pearls and rhinestones.

Price $8.95 Size 8

 

 
  
  
  
  
  
  

Skirt S-lh

Four core skirt in medium dark

13

blue cotton velveteen. Patch
pockets with notched flaps.

Waistline elasticized and lined
with grosgrain ribbon. Side
zipper opening.

Price $7.95 Size 8

 

Skirt 3.15 I if N‘ \
Full gathered skirt in dark brox-rn /

cotton with printed stylized

 

border of Pennsylvania Dutch L.‘/ L,
‘ C, 0L ' . . a. 6
MOtif . . If I, r ’ § . O (I C
8. Made by the investigator. ... . 7/ o a ‘ y\ 0‘ < ' L ' ‘
, o, \\ K \.
Cost to make $5 86 Size 10 @135 “v ” ° . I . I . D“ c 0.. IVY—3
' Qe~~m ‘ “We
\ \ ' '\ \’
.9; l

 

 

 

 

d Blouse 8—7
.\\:=1£"fl~\ . Pink and white check cotton blouse
*4, ‘J ' *-
I \~ ' a y\ with convertible collar, short sleeves
" ‘\\ \ -L \‘ . '
. .\ \‘~ ‘ _
\) \ ‘ . J .
\C"‘ . V 1M and patch pocket. Slashed opening
\\ . L; . "i x -
ffi;!.:\ ‘5 of sleeves trimmed with cording and
w . L: . i A
~ -'_¢\- " ,» _ _ 1
a , 1 . fastened with linked buttons.
T ‘ ' :: \' ‘i‘ I
-. " - l ‘_ . w \ ~ . A .
«5-:LJL;3;.- ~F., Price wl.98 Size 8 ,
. .“w ”‘1. "x
Blouse 5—8

”White dacron sheer blouse with
short puffed sleeves. Peter pan
<3ollar and front band trimmed with

Inachine-made lace. Simulated pearl

 

 

buttons .

Price $3.00 Size 8

 

Blouse 3.?
white Indian Head cotton shirtwaist
type blouse made by the investigator.

Convertible collar and short cuffed

 

sleeves. Patch pocket.

Cost to make $1.69 Size 8

 

   

 

 

 

 

l J

 

Blouse 5-10

Uhite broadcloth cotton shirtwaist

 

type blouse. Peter pan collar and '
short sleeves. Patch pocket with

flap.

 

Price $1.00 Size 7

 

Blouse 8-11 114’ " 7

lbidzht blue cotton broadcloth blouse

D
with convertible collar and short \ O \: by
O I
Cllffed sleeves. Cuffs buttoned with
0
link fastenings. Front opening
0

tnxttoned with pearl shank buttons.

Price $32.25 Size 10

Sweater S~l

Tan orlon slip-over sweater with

 

short set-in sleeves. Rihbing
at neckline, sleeves and waist.

Price $3.95 Size 10

//

   

 

7h

I ($‘x
\\ \\
Hi“ 0'45... \ Sweater 3-2

\ Pink angers and weal slip—over sweater
i , with short set-in sleeves. Ribbing at
I“ t neckline, sleeves and waist. Beads,

sequins and embroidery trim at

Wig neckline .

Price $5.95 Size 10

 

\
Ehfleater 8-3 ‘\ “
Iqavyblue nylon cardigan sweater (
twith long set-in sleeves. Ribbing
Iieckline, sleeves and waist.
Plastic buttons. .
IPrice $h.98 Size 10 /v *

W /7 /’/'l

Sweater S—h

White nylon cardigan sweater with
long set-in sleeves. Ribbing at
neckline, sleeves and waist.

Plastic buttons.

 

Price $h.98 Size 12

 

 

 

 

75

Sweater S—S

Red cotton slip-over sweater with
short raglan sleeves. "Angora" like
braid in necklace design.

Price 1:32.00 Size "M"

 

A skirt with a blouse or sweater Was the favored school outfit

011' eight of the ten mothers. Skirts with blouses and sweaters were

also favored for wear to the movies, but were not preferred for other

activities or occasions.

Pieferences for School dear

0f the four skirts shown, the pleated orlon and wool (S-12) was
preferred by six mothers for school wear as they liked pleated skirts
and thought the orlon and wool would hold its shape and be easy to
launder. Two other mothers indicated that they would choose the dark
Impetni dirndl (5-15) as it would be easy to launder and would look
Well on young girls. Two chose the wine felt (8-13) for they thought
it Would be sewiceable but thought the price of $8.95 too high.

The blouse preferred to coordinate with the pleated orlon and

wool Skirt (8-12) for school wear wls the pink and white checked

cotton (8-7). However, every blouse shown was chosen by one or more

Of the respondents for wear with this pleated skirt.

of the five sweaters the tan orlon (5-1) was the one most

frequently chosen to be worn with the pleated skirt (8-12) for school

 

 

 

 

 

76

wear. Two mothers chose the navy and white cardigans (8-3 and 8—1;)
to wear with it as "mv daughter needs a cardlgan" and ”this cardigan
could be worn over a blouse."
freferences for Sunday or Better near

The blue velveteen skirt (S-lh) was preferred by five of the ten
motPuers for Sunday or better wear, as they considered it both dressy
and serviceable. One respondent mentioned that the velvet would
haITnonize with the velvet coat which she was making for her daughter.
AHOther thought that the velvet would be suitable for either school
or' dress-up. The pleated orlon and wool skirt (8-12) was chosen by
two because they thouoht it could be worn for either school or dress-up
and would be easy to launder. The wine felt (8-13) was chosen by two
as they thought it suitable either for school or dress-up, although
it hat‘ a "more dressed—up look" than the other skirts in this group.

The dacron sheer (8-8) was the only blouse chosen to be coordinated
with the blue velveteen skirt (S-lh) for dress-up wear. It was also
chosen for wear with the pleated skirt. Both the dacron sheer and the
pink check blouse (8-7) were chosen to be worn with the wine felt {8—13)
Skirt for Sunday or better wear.

(The tan orlon sweater (5-1) was the popular choice for combining
With the blue velveteen (S-lh) skirt, although the pink angora and
Wool (S-Z) sweater was the choice of two mothers.
wences for Price

When the respondents were asked to consider this group of skirts in
terms 0f price, nine of the ten chose the pleated orlon and wool (S—12).

One mother indicated that she thought the wine felt skirt (3-13) was

excessively high in price.

 

 

 

 

—__.._ cyl;

 

 

 

.. ._
L.

 

77

'fhen considering the price of the blouses separately, the pink
and white check cotton (8-7) and the white dacron sheer (8-8) were
chos en by nine and seven mothers, resoectively.

The "10540 130.0111"? 53'0“??? b3805- solely on price was the tan orlon
(5-1), as it was the choice of seven respondents. The pink anqora
and wool (8-2) and the white nylon cardigan (8—3) were each chosen by

four of the responcents.

Preferences for (winter Coats, Group E
Three winter coats were shown to the mothers for determininrz their
preferences as to design, color, opinions on cost of up-keep, durability,
and special features. These three coats are illustrated and briefly
described below in order that the respondent's preferences may have

more meaning to the reader.

Coat C-l
Ready-to-wear grey heavy flannel

coat of 50 percent new wool and

 

50 percent reprocessed wool.
Three gores and belt in back.
DOUble-breasted with slashed
pockets. Collar of red velvet.

Red plastic buttons.

 

Frice $13.hh Size 12

 

 

 

/ COat C-2

Beige orlon fleece coat with kimono
sleeves, shcwl coll;r and patch
pockets. Notched cuffs. Brown and
beige plastic buttons on front

opening. Made by the investigator.

 

Cost to make $26.9h Size 12

 

 

 

 

Coat C-3
REady-to-wear green and black tweed
'wool coat. Princess style, gathered
and belted at center back. Double-
-l>reasted with flap pockets at waist-
line. Close fitting collar and pocket
flaps trimmed with green velvet.
Labeled "Save-A-Year" coat.

Price $29.95 Size 12

 

.Pfiierences for Design or Style

The green and black tweed (0-3) was the first choice of four
reSpendents. The grey trimmed in red (0-1) was the preference of three.
TW0 IBSpondents said they did not like any of the three coats. The

reasons given for their preference of the green and black tweed (0-3)

   

((~
7'.
3
V
4
i
J
a
t
o ‘ -'
a.

 

 

 

 

19

were "wouldn't soil easily," and "would be warmer," "like style and

'Save-A-Year' feature," and "would look best, on my daughter." The

 

reasons given by those who preferred the grey coat rimmed in red (0-1)
were "price is right," "would be warmer and better for school," "would '
fit my daughter best" and "style is better for my daughter."

When asked whether or not they would select any of the three coats
Shown in this group for their daughters, five mothers said they would
select one. The five who stated that they would not choose any of the
three gave as their reasons: "there are prettier styles," "don't like
8“'ayles," "colors are too neutral for my daughter" and "can find something
b<‘-:=‘l:ter."

P‘l‘gferences for Color

The color of the coats was objectionable to seven of the ten mothers.
The tan orlon fleece (0-2) was thought impractical as it would show soil
I‘eadily. Another thought the grey coat trimmed in red (0-1.) and the tan
orlon fleece (0-2) were drab colors for a child. Even though all of the
reapondents objected to the colors in these coats, no one considered
that the cost of upkeep would be excessive.

References for Serviceabili_ty

The two coats considered the most durable were the grey (C-1) and
the tweed (6-3). However, the mothers who chose the tweed could not
Justify their opinion as to why they thought it would be more durable.
Those choosing the grey gave as their reasons: "get more for your money,"

I. .
heavier material will wear better," "heavier and warmer material," "closer

W9’5““! is warmer . "

   

 

.. ' “0'3

 

 

bferences for Price

The price of either the tan orlon fleece (0-2) and the green and
black tweed (0—3) was thought to be excessive by six of the mothers.
When asked the price range in which they customarily purchased their
daughter's winter coats, two indicated they preferred to pay less than
$25.00. The other four said they would pay more than $25.00 or that
they had no set price range. This would indicate that none of the
15hr‘ee coats were sufficiently well liked by these respondents to
J'llstify their price. In general, the mothers did not like either the
8tyling or colors. Price was, apparently, less objectionable than

Other factors that they felt to be important when selecting a winter

cOat for their daughter.

 

 

CHAPTER V

SUMMARY

This study is concerned with determining preferences and practices
Ln the purchase and use of selected items of outerwear for girls eight
through twelve years of age. The survey was made in Lansing, Michigan,

during the winter of lQSh-ES as a pilot study for a more comprehensive

Experiment Station study in clothing.

The primary purposes of this small survey was to ascertain the
feasibility of the use of actual garments in an interview situation,
to develop a means for transporting and displaying these garments

during the interview and to evaluate the questionnaire for clarity and

reliability.

The investigational procedure consisted of personal interviews with

ten mothers. The first part of the questionnaire dealt with the socio-

economic status of the family, home sewing practices and equipment, and
bWing practices. The second part dealt with the mother's specific

Preferences for selected ready-to-wear and home-made dresses, blouses,

Sweaters, skirts and winter coats. Actual garments were used so that

the interviewer and the respondent had a common basis for communication
as terminology used to describe style, color, etc. does not have like

mBaning to all people.

The use of actual garments reduced confusion

 

 

 

82

as to meaning, therefore, the evaluation of their expressed preferences
and opinions are regarded as reliable. However, the use of a sufficient
number of garments to adequately reflect individual preferences presented
a practical problem of transportation and display.

The sampling was drawn at random from two socio-economic areas in
Lansing, Michigan. One area had a higher percent of white collar workers
Whose education and income was anticipated to be different than the
respondents in the second area where there was a higher percentage of
manual workers. The sampling was equally divided into manual and white
collar workers. Although every effort was made to survey families of
different income levels, the majority of the families interviewed in both
areas had annual incomes of $5,000 to $7,500. The Warner Index of Status
Characteristics was used as a basis for scoring the house-type and
dwelling area to establish the socio-economic status of the families.

Analysis of the data on home sewing and purchase of ready-to-wear
showed significant uniformity in certain practices/inc data indicated
that the daughter's clothing was usually selected jointly. The data
also showed that the older girl in the family was given more freedom in
deciding the clothes she would wear than the younger or only child. The
majority of the mothers and the younger girls thought their wardrobes
adequate. However, dissatisfaction was expressed by the older girls
and girls 'who were an only child in the family.

EVery family owned a sewing machine and the greatest amount of sewing
was d(me for the daughter. Major reasons given for home sewing were

enjoyment, money economy and better quality of fabric. The most popular

.fabric for home sewing was cotton print. All of the girls in this study

 

 

M.
-..- W

 

 

83

Wore "hand—me-downs," but restyling and remaking garments was not
commonly practiced.

The items which the mothers preferred to purchase ready-made were
tailored or knitted apparel such as coats and sweaters. Reasons for
purchasing ready-to-wear rather than making them were lack of time for
sewing, dislike of sewing or "home-made" look, becomingness of garment
and economy. In purchasing ready-to-wear no preference was expressed
for a specific type of store but shOpping in several stores before
buying was a common practice. These mothers usually had a preferred
price in mind to spend for a specific item and the majority purchased
sale items. They were unwilling to purchase any item of ready-to-wear
Which required major alterations. Garments sized by age were not
satisfactory, but few reapondents were acquainted with "height, weight
and girth" type of sizing. Brand names apparently had little
significance to these mothers.

Significant data on the mother's preferences for specific garments
reflected subjective interest and judgment rather than objective analysis.
chaices of garments were essentially evaluated in terms of. color, style
or becomingness for their own daughter, although suitability for
different occasions determined some choices.

The mothers regarded all of the dresses which varied in price as
suitable for school. Criticism and preferences were based essentially
on the practical factors of serviceability and launderability, regardless
°f the price or design of the garment. However, when selecting a dress

for better wear, style and individual becomingness were of primary

consideration. Many of the respondents could see little or no difference

 

 

8b

in the quality of fabric and workmanship among the dresses. In general,
price did not seem to be a significant factor affecting preferences.

In the group of four dresses of the same price, the majority of
the mothers were mainly concerned with factors of design, versatility
for occasion and ease of maintenance as the basis for their preferences

rather than cost. However, every dress in this group was thought by

 

one or more respondents to be excessive in price.

The dresses made by the investigator were considered as attractive
as the ready-mades. The respondents preferred them in design, price
arud workmanship, although the investigator felt that they were
uuxrealistic as to the skill and time factors involved.

For school wear, the majority of the mother's preferred blouses,
swmeaters and skirts with their individual preferences based on
versatility for occasion rather than fabric, color or price. Blouses,
smreaters and skirts were not a popular choice for better wear.

The designs and colors of the coats used in this study were not
well liked by the majority of the mothers as they thought they could
find coats more attractive in both design and color. Considerable
Objection was voiced about the price of the coats shown. The mother's
considered warmth, resistance to soil and "let-down" features as the
d881reble characteristics in a winter coat.

Although the number of reSpondents was small in this study the
data indicated wide variation in the responses to questions pertaining
t0 individual preferences in color, style and suitability to occasion.

However, there was marked conformity and agreement concerning the

Objective factors of maintenance and potential serviceability.

   

 

CHAPTER VI

GENERALIZATIONS AND CONCLUSIONS

The limited sampling of ten families in this survey was considered
tuiequate as the primary purpose in this pre—test was to develop and
evaluate the schedule, materials and procedures for their employment
in a more comprehensive study. The investigator believes that a larger
szzmpling would not have revealed many additional or significant differences.

The findings of this survey on family buying practices and preferences
ikar girls' apparel as eXpressed by the ten mothers interviewed, cannot
txe considered even typical because of the limited number of cases.

Thawever, some preferences and buying practices suggest sufficent conformity
tn: be predictive of similar opinions and practices in the more comprehensive
study. This pilot study further points up some of the difficulties in

'bhe procedure for sampling and interviewing.

The sampling based on the procedure and data developed by the
Sociology Department for the socio-economic areas for Lansing, Michingan,
Proved satisfactory for locating both white collar and manual workers.
However; the procedure of drawing the sample by numbering the city
blocks was lengthy, tedious and expensive. Nine weeks, sixty-two

direct contacts or visits and 311 miles were required to locate and

interview ten eligible families.

 

 

 

86

Warner's Index of Status Characteristics for scoring the house-
type and dwelling areas proved a more reliable method of establishing
the family‘s socio-economic status than either income or occupation.
The relevancy of some of the data concerning the family and social
elass identification could not be clearly determined in this small
Sampling. However, the relevancy of such data will be more significant
in a larger sampling.

It was difficult to complete more than one interview in an afternoon
as it took approximately one hour to locate an eligible family and the
length of the interview ranged from one and a half hours to two and one
fourth hours. As inclement weather was another factor which extended
the interview period, a study of this type should be conducted at a time
of year when weather conditions would not unduly delay interviewing.

‘ The use of actual garments in this type of study was regarded as
both feasible and effective for obtaining family preferences and
practices. However, the number and variety of garments which were used
presented so many variables that precise evaluation was difficult. A
study of this type should be limited to a single category of garments
so that such variables as color, design, fabric and workmanship could
be more effectively controlled and subsequently evaluated.

The garment bags develOped for the transportation of the garments
were considered practical and satisfactory. Their design and material
made them flexible and lightweight for handling the garments. However,

the Deg-board display stand used to show the garments to the interviewee

was not considered satisfactory by the investigator. Its weight and

 

 

 

87

size made it difficult to remove from the car and to carry through
doorways. The investigator su~gests the use of a portable, collapsible,
aluminum rack as a more suitable device for displaying the garments as
it appreciably minimizes both bulk and weight in handling.
The sequence of the questions in the schedule followed a logical
order in presentation and was considered satisfactory. In the main,
the interviewee had little difficulty in understanding the intended
meaning of individual questions. Showing garments at the halfway
point stimulated the mother's interest in the interview at a time when
interest tended to lag. However, the investigator felt that the total
interview time was too long for the interviewee became somewhat restless
and frustrated because of household or family obligations. For this
reason it is recommended that the entire section on home sewing practices
and preferences be eliminated in the larger study. Home production of
clothing merits a separate investigation in order to secure an adequate
amount of information for a reliable evaluation of home sewing practices.
Despite the limitations found in this pre-test, the investigator
does feel that this small sampling suggests other areas and emphasis
for additional investigations which would supplement and support this
Palatively new area of study on consumer preferences and buying practices
in clothing. It was evident in this study that the expreSsed Opinions
Of the mothers was not necessarily those of the daughter. This suggests
the need for a similar study in which the pre-teen girls' preferences
and buying practices are paralleled with preferences of the mother so

as t0 determine if there is conflict in their judgment and Opinions

as W811 as the implications of such conflicts.

 

 

 

.u -

 

88

It was further noted that there was a distinct difference between
the preferences and practices of the older and the younger girls in
this study. The wide difference in the social and physical maturity
of the eight, nine and ten year olds and the eleven and twelve year
olds suggests a need for separate investigations on the variation in
the prefernces for these two age groups.

The potentialities in the use of actual garments for determining
sDecific clothing preferences of different age and sex groups is
unlimited. Such studies are needed to reveal and establish the age

at which different factors influence individual preferences if we are

to better understand what constitutes needs and satisfactions in

clothing.

 

 

 

89

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY

   

 

Ancnn.

Ancna,

Annex:

Aruor1

Aruori

Anon

AIMDII

Ancui

Ancui

Baytrr,

BOWen ’

:7 U

BIBLIOGRAPHY

The Apparel and Accessories Market. Division of Marketing and
Research, Macfadden Publications, Inc., New York, 1950, 122 pp.

Family Clothing - Gift, Home-made, Handed-down - Studies of
Family Clothing Supplies, Preliminary Report No. 5. Bureau of
Home Economics, United States Department of Agriculture,
Washington, D. C., 1951, 18 pp.

Family Clothing Inventories By Age - Studies of Family Clothing
Supplies, Preliminary Report No. 3. Bureau of Home Economics,
United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., 1951,
29 pp.

Family Clothing Purchases by Income - Studies of Family Clothing
Supplies, Preliminary Report No. 2. Bureau of Home Economics,
United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., 1950,
23 pp.

Family Expenditures for Clothing - Farm Series. Bureau of Home
Economics, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington,
D, 0,, Misc. Pub. h28, 19h1, 387 pp.

Family Expenditures for Clothing — Urban and Village Series.
Bureau of Home Economics, United States Department of Agriculute,
Washington, D. C., Misc. Pub. h22, l9hl, 329 pp.

HOW Families USe Their Incomes. Bureau of HOme Economics, United
States Department of Agriculture, washington, D. C., Misc. Pub.
h63, 19h8. '

Model Forms for Girls' Apparel. United States Department of
Commerce, Washington, D. C., CS 158-h9, l9h9, 13 pp.

Quantity and Cost Budgets for Three Income levels. The Heller
Committee for Research in Social Economics, University of California
Press, Berkeley, California, 19h6, 107 pp.

5. and Wybourn, M.
g£_HOme Economics.

Third Clothing and Textile Seminar. Journal
h2 (December 1950), pp. 803.

A. F. A Study of the Habits of the Consumer in the Selection and
Purchase of Children's Clothes and Shoes. Unpublished Master's

Thesis, University of Tennessee, 1939, 9h pp.

 

 

 

91

Bowie, Alice and Dickins, Dorothy. Clothing Supplies of Socially
Participating White Farm Families in Mississippi. Mississippi
Agriculture Exneriment Station, State College, Mississipni,
Tech. Bul. 30, 19h2, 51 pp.

1950 Cenusu of Population. Volume II Characteristics of the Population,
Part I, U. S. Summary.fimwashington, D. C:, United States Government
Printing, Office, 1953, hfé pp. ‘

 

Coles, J. w; and Shenk, N. W. Effect of Social Status on Expenditures
for Children's Clothing. Journal of Home Economics. hl (April
19h9), pp. 193.

Current Census Reports - Papulaticn Estimates. Series P-25, No. 85,
Bureau of Census, Washington, D. C., 1953, 5 pp.

Current Census Reports - Population Estimates. Series P-25, No. 78,
Bureau of Census, Washington, D. C., 1953, 5 pp.

d. l. w. Kiddies week. Women's Wear Dail . December 30, 1953.

Hertzler, A. E. Problems of the Normal Adolescent Girl. California
Journal of Secondary Education. 15 (February 191p), pp. 11h-119.

 

Helmblade, A. J. A Comparative Study of the Clothing Area of the Secondary
Hbmemaking Curriculum in a Selected Community and Related Beliefs
and Practices of Families in that Community. Unpublished Doctoral
Thesis, Michigan State College, l95h, 262 pp.

_l%urlock, Elizabeth, B. Motivation in Fashion. Archives of Peychology,
No. 111, New York,—Columbia—University, 1929, 71 pp.

King, Bernice, A Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relationships
in Twenty-five Selected Families. Unpublished Master's Thesis,
Michigan State College, 19h9, 631 pp.

Leask, Grace J. A Survey of the Clothing Preference and Buying Practices
of 100 Girls of west Division High School in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College, 1953, 117 pp.

O'Brien, R., Girshick, M. A. and Hunt, E. Body Measurements of American
Bays and Girls for Garment and Pattern Construction. Bureau of
Hume Economics, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington,
D. C., Misc. Pub. 366, 19h1, 1hl pp.

P'Banort, E. K, A Study of the Clothing Needs and Interests of Two
Hundred Seventy-five Sixth and Seventh Grade Girls in Portsmouth,

girginia. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Hampton Institute, 1952,
hpp. .

 

 

Pennington, M. M. An Economic Study of Children's Clothing Ages Two to
Seven Inclusive. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College,

1932-1» , 83 pi? o

Read, Katherine Clothes Help Build Personality. Journal of Homg .
Economics. b? (May 1950), pp. 3h8

 

Reed, Kathryn E. A Study of the Consumer Purchases of a Selected Group
of Young Adolescents. Unpublished Master's Thesis, Florida State
University, 19h6, 78 pp.

Rosner, Anna T. A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Practices
of 100 Girls of Roosevelt High School in Chicago, Illinois. Un-
published Master's Thesis, Michigan State College, 1951;, 1118 pp.

Saunders, D. A. and Parker, 8. S. The Sunny Outlook for Clothes.
Fortune. U9 (April 195h), pp. l32-2hh

Stone, G. P., Form W. H., and Strahan, H. B. The Social Climate of
Decision in ShOpping for Clothes. Journal of Home Economics.
ho (February 195R), pp. 88.

Thompson, H. M. and Rea, L. E. Clothinngor Children. New York, John
Wiley and Sons, Inc., 19h9, bl? pp.

 

Thompson, H. M. and Jelks, V. F. Clothing Practices Among Low-Income
Families. Journal of Home Economics. 33 (February 19h1), pp. 78.

'Van Syckle, Calla. Practices Followed by Consumers in Buying "Large-
Expenditure" Items of Clothing, Furniture and Equipment. Michigan
State College, Agricultural Experiment Station, Tech. Bul. 2h,
1951, to pp.

Imarner,'W. L. Social Class in America. Chicago Science Research Assoc-
iation, Inc., Chicago, Illinois, 19h9, 27h pp.

   

 

93

 

 

APPENDIX

   

 

9h

 

QUESTIONNAIRE

   

.K -"‘.v

 

 

Final Schedule - December 2, 1953.1
Experiment Station - Girls' Clothing Project
Michigan State College Code No.

 

Family name

 

Address

 

1. Do you have any daughters who are 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 years of age?
Yes , no

 

2. Are you and your husband between the ages of 25 and 16? Yes , no

3. Do you have any other children? Yes _, no

a. If yes, what are the ages and sexes of all your children?

Name Age ' Sex

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(If more than one daughter within the 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 age range, the
interviewer will help in the selection of a daughter for our sample.)

Date 01' Interview

 

 

 

 

 

 

we would like to start by asking you a few questions about sewing done in
the home.

h. Do you own a sewing machine? Yes , no

a. If yes, what make or brand sewing machine do you own?

 

b. Is it electric , or treadle : Cabinet style or portable?

 

c. Approximately how long have you owned your machine? Under 5 years
, S to 10 years , over 10 years ?

d. Does it work satisfactorily? Yes , no
5. If you do not own a sewing machine, do you ever rent a machine, borrow
a machine or go outside your home to sew? Yes , no
a. Do you do this: Frequently Occasionally Never

Rent a machine
Borrow a machine

Go outside the

home to sew

 

 

 

 

 

 

6. Will you estimate the frequency or extent of the sewing by machine
you do for those listed below?

Frequently Occasionally Never

Husband

Self

Sons

Daughters

Other Relatives
Friends

Others (specify

  

7. .Do you make or alter garments by hand? Frequently , Occasionally
Never
.___2 .————'

(If never to last two questions, skip to page 6.)

8. Would you check the special sewing and pressing equipment which you ,
have and use often?
Dressmaker shears and scissors Convenient cutting surface
Pinking shears Steam iron
_ Tra01ng wheel Sleeve board

I

Hem marker Pressing mit or ham

Other (Specify)
9- Mthere do you lay out the fabric and pattern for cutting out garments
for home sewing?

l

 

__ Kitchen table ___Floor Card, recreation or folding
____JDining room table Bed table

Other (Specify)

 

 

. .1.

fr?

 

10.

Home

Do you feel that your sewing facilities and equipment are adequate ,'
somewhat adequate , inadequate , or very inadequate ?

a. If you could add or change your sewing equipment and facilities,
what would you do?

b. If your sewing facilities and equipment were improved, do you
think you would probably sew a great deal more , somewhat
more , a little more , or would continue to sew as you do
now

Sewing Practices and Preferences for the Daughter

 

11.

112.

13.

1£§,

Which wardrobe items do you make for your daughter from new fabric?

Coats

a School Dresses ___Robes/housecoats
b Raincoats

c

d

J
Dress-up dresses k l___Pajamas
Play clothes 1 Nightgowns
m
n

Jackets/blazers
Sweaters

Skirts -_—Blips
Blouses Other (Specify)

P‘D‘O’QHQ

Which clothing items does your daughter prefer that you make of the
garments listed in question 11?

 

‘

 

Which clothing items does she prefer to have purchased ready-made of
the garments listed in question 11?

 

Check any of the following reasons which indicate your preferences for
making clothing for your daughter?

Enjoy sewing Ready-made requires too many alterations
Money Economy Wider selection in fabric design and
Better quality fabric color
More becomingly styled Daughter's figure requires special
garments fitting .
Other (Specify)

Are there some garments in your daughter's wardrobe that you have made

for her which she wears infrequently or does not wear at all? Yes
no

—

8. Would you indicate those items?

 

b. What are her reasons for not wearing them?

 

__

 

 

r
I
v
n
.
n
r
‘ V

d.‘

. .

 

In order that we may be talking about the same thing, let us define "hand-
me-down?" "restyled" and "remade " garments. A "hand-me-down" is a garment
that is essentially unchanged. A "restyled" garment is one in which some
of the items are modified in such a way that the garment appears different.
A. "remade" garment is one in which an entirely different garment is made
from used garments or used material.

16. Has your daughter ever worn "hand-me-downs?" Yes , n0v

a. If yes, whose clothes were they?

b. If yes, how do you think she felt about wearing them?

 

 

17. Do you "restyle" or "rmamake" garments for your daughter frequently ,
occasionally or never ?

(If never, omit the rest of this question.)

a. What clothing items in your daughter‘s wardrobe have been "remade"
or "restyled" from other garments?

      
  
 
 

 

 

"remade" "restyled” "remade" "restyled"
Coats Blouses
Raincoats Robes/housecoats
Blazers/jackets Pajamas

 

School dresses

Dress-up dresses
Skirts

Nightgowns
Slips
Other(Specify)

 

 

 

b. In general, would you say that your daughter wears these "restyled"
or "re made" garments frequently , occasionally , or never ?

0. Do you "restyle" or 'Hxamake" garments for'your daughter primarily
for financial reasons? Yes , no .

d. If no, why do you "restyle" or "remake" garments?

113. Do you have a "favorite" brand name in a commercial pattern which you
would prefer to use in sewing for your daughter? Yes , no .

a. If yes, what is your "favorite"?

 

b. Would you check the reasons listed below why you like this commercial

pattern?
This brand most available Easier to understand sewing guide
familiar with this brand Perforated paper pattern easier
Less expensive to use

Better styled designs Printed paper attern easier to use
Other (Spec ifyg - -

   

 

I 99'

19. Do you frequently , occasionally , or never alter the
pattern to change the design for your daughter?

 

t 20. Do you frequently , occasionally , or never alter the
pattern to improve the fit?

21. In what price range do you customarily pruchase fabric for her?

w001en dI‘SSS materifll3 $20-:530 , $140-$So—3 $60'380 per yd0____’
no set price range .

cotton print: $025-$OSO—_, $050-$075 , $075-$10_, $loOO-31OSO
___, no set price range ___.

Corduroy: $1.00-t1.so__, $1.So-$1.75___, $1.7S-$2.oo__, $2.00- '
$2.25 per yd. , no set price range ___.

22. when you are shopping for the fabric for garments to be made at home,
. ' what usually influences your purchases?

The fabric ___.is new this season The fabric ___has a special finish
___Dis on sale (Crease resistant)
.___ is a remnant ___has a design, color
___-is a known brand name or texture that you
____is suitable in weave like
___'is colorfast ___fis suited to you
.___ is sanforized or has other daughter's needs

shrinkage treatment ___fihher (Specify)

23. Have you ever made garments for your daughter from nylon, orlon,
dacron, dynel or acrilian? Yes ___, no

8

. If yes, did you have any difficulty in handling them? Yes
no

—,

 

b. If yes, what were your difficulties?

 

2H4. Which of the following sewing processes do you use and which do you
find difficult?

 

Processes used Find difficult

Altering and fitting pattern
Placing pattern on cloth (layout)
Cutting
Transfer of pattern markings to c
Easting (or pinning) garment together
Fitting the garment
Construction, such as: Sleeves
Belt
Collar
Buttonholes
Zipper/plac
Hem

     

_— iffinfl,
—

 

 

 

 

 

100

25. Is there anything more that you would like to learn about sewing?
Yes , no

-*

 

4—‘7

a. If yes, what.

 

 

26. Do you usually , sometimes , or never figure the actual
cost in dollars ant cents for the garments which you have made for
you daughter?

a. Do you always , sometimes , or never save money by
sewing for your daughter?

27. Does your daughter sew for herself? Yes no

__’ *

a. If yes, what has she made?

 

Headgeto-Wear Practices and Preferences for the Daughter

128. hmich.items in your datzhier's wardrobe are usually purchased ready-

 

 

 

 

made?
Coats Play clothes Nightgowns
Raincoats Sweaters Slips
Snowsuits Skirts Pants
Jackets/blaze“s . Blouses Other (Specify)
School dresses Robes/housecoats

Dress—up dresses Pajamas

295, Please check the reason that usually influence your purchase of the
above ready-made items.

Dislike sewing Can get wider choice of design ‘ ’ ‘ '

Dislike "home—made" look of and fabric -
garments made at home Can find better workmanship

Lack equipment or space in ready-made -
to sew Can see becomingness of garment

Do not have time to sew in a ready—made \

Can save money in buying Other (Snecify)

ready-made

3C3- of the factors listed below, voich do you most frequently consider

When purchasing a ready-made school dress for your daughter?

  

L _____Brand name Style workmanship
fiber content Color Cost of upkeep
Price Ease of care Other (Specify)

:‘fla'a'

 

 

 

.LUJ.

 

31. In what type of store do you frequently purchase the following items
for your daughter?

     
  

        
   
    

    
    

    
   
  

    
 
  
   

 

 
 

Dept. ciulit Chain Mail— 5; - $1.00
Knapps acobson Penny's Order Kresge's
Arbaughs hild Cntr. Grants Sears Woolworth

 

        
  
  
 
 
 
  

Wards
Coats
Raincoats
Snowsuits
Jackets/blazers
School Dresses
Dress-up dresses
Play clothes
Sweaters
Skirts
Blouses
Robes/housecoats
Pajamas/night
Slips

32. Before you make a purchase, do you frequently , occasionally ,
or never shop in several stores?

33. In local stores, do you find the size of garments indicated by "height,
weight and girth measurements?" Yes , no

 

a. If yes, do you prefer to buy them rather than garments sized in
some other way? Yes , no

.3h, Can.you rely on one "age" size of dresses to fit your daughter well?
Yes , no

a. If yes, what "age" size is it?

:35. which of the following garments does your daughter try on before
purchasing?

Frequently Occasionally Never

Coats
Suits/jackets
Dresses

Blouses
Slacks/blue jeans
Slips

Sweaters

 

365. Do you usually , occasionally , or never purchase specific
clothing items by "brand name?"

a. Do you frequently , occasionally , or never repeat
purchases of "brand name" items which you have found to be
satisfactory?

37.

DO you find it frequently ‘ , occasionally , or never
necessary to return apparel purchased for your daughter?

   

 

3?.

£39.

102

a. If yes, which tvoe of apparel do you frequently find it necessary
to return?

Coats Blouses Underwear
Sweaters School dr sses Other(5pecify)
Play clothes Dress-up dresses

 

b. Neuld you check below the reasons for which you frequently request
adjustment on clothing nurcnss‘s9

 

Nrong size or poor “it Seems pulled out
Fe oric inperfecticns _Excessive shrinkage
Printed off grain *Uther (Specify)

Gannent or fabric cut off grain

 

In which price range do you customarily purchase these clothing items
for your do ughter?

‘ ' '> ' * e er A o
winter coat: Under 510. , 510,—515, , 515—930, mZO.~525. ,
e r i H r - '-—'. -- --’ -——-
923.—w3y. , no set price run 9 .

#-

. I ' _‘ ..J "4. ". 3%
School dress: Under 53. , $3.-5b. , 55.-57. , $7.-5lO. ,
510,—515. , no set price range .

Pajamas (Cotton): Under $3. , 53.-$h. , $h.—$5. , $5.-$6. :
fit .
36. -w7. m, $7.-58. , no set price range .

Slip (requon): UTK‘leI‘ if)? c 3 3'52 0 -993 0*- ):53 o "";£S)—L o 3 3’11 0 -5135 0
5S. ~5o. , 5o. 57. , no set price ran~e .

Do you frequently , occasionally , or never purchase items
for your daughter's wardrobe at sales?

a. What items do you frequently purchase at Special sales such as,
end of the month and seasonal clearance, "special" promotional
and pro/post holiday 3 les?

End of Month Sew onal Special Pre/Post
Clearance Clearance Promotional Holiday
Coats
Raincoats
Jacket/blazers

  
   

School dresses
Dres s-up dress ses
Play clothes
Sweaters
Blouses
Skirts
Robes/housecoats
Pajamas/nightgowns
Slips

 

_—

 

 

 

hO.

bl.

iv)

b. Generally speaking, have you found "sales purchases" for your
dauqhter completely satisfactory ___ moderately satisfactory ___J
or less satisfactory ___ than garments purchased at "regular"
prices?

"V

c. From your expericnee in buying for your daughter have you frequently
, seldom , or never found "better quality merchandise"
reduced in price?

d. Would you list what you consider advantages in purchasing
merchandise reduced in price?

e. Would you list what you consider limiatations in purchasing
merchandise reduced in price?

Will you pwrchase ready-made garments for your daughter which require
alterations? Yes , no

a. If you do the alterations on your daughter's garments, which of
the following alterations would you do?

Change zipper in skirt plecket Shorten a belt
Shorten or lengthen a lined coat Refit shoulders

HI

 

Put a hen in a full flared skirt Reset sleeves
fut a hem in a straioht skirt Other (Specify)

In many families items of clothing are often used as gifts for
special occasions?

Is clothing frequently , occasionally , or never given to
your daughter?

a. Which apparel items are frequently given to your daughter?

Coats Pajamas Skirts
Dresses Blouses Other(Specify)
Robes Sweaters

b. From whom does she receive clothing as gifts?

Frequently Occasionally

Parents

Sisters
Brothers
Grandparents
Aunts

Friends

Other (Specify)

 

 

 

 

h2.

113.

1:5.

IRS.

Are clothing expenditures for the members of your family planned?
Yes , no .

a. If yes, does your daughter help in this family planning of clothing
expenditures? Yes , no

Some families give their daughter allowances for clothing. Do you?
Yes , no

 

a. If yes, what clothing does she frequently purchase out of her
allowance?

 

b. Does your dauuhter save from her allowance over a period of time
to buy "special" or more eXpensive items of clothing? Yes ,
no .

c. If yes, what does she buy?

 

Does your daughter earn her own spending money? Yes , no
a. Does she spend any of her own money for clothing items? Yes

no
How are the following items of your daughter's clothing frequently
selected?

By mother By daughter By mother and Other
alone alone daughter (Specify)

Coats

Raincoats
Jackets/blazers
School dresses
Dress-up dresses
Play clothes
Sweaters

Skirts

Blouses
Robes/housecoats
Pajamas/nightgowns
Slips

   

a. If your daughter receives help in selecting clothing do you think
that, at times, she would prefer to make clothing choices by
herself? Yes ___, no '

 

b. Would you like to have your daughter take more responsibility than
she takes now in the selection of her clothing? Yes , no

Does your daughter possess ready-made clothing items that are infre-
quently or never worn? Yes , no

a. If yes, what are they?

 

b. why'were they not worn?

 

 

 

105

 

Part II

Final Schedule — December 2, l9Sh

Experiment Station - Girls' Clothing Project

Michigan State College Code No. _*_

This group of dresses are ready-made but vary in price. Neuld you consider
the following questions in reference to your daughter?

(Dresses in this grOUp are D15, D11, D10 and D6)

h7. Which one of these four<iesigns do you like best?

a. Why?

 

h8. Which one of these four designs do you like least?
a. Why?

h9. would you select any of these four dresses for general school wear?
Yes , no

 

 

a. If yes, which one(s)? b. Why?

 

50. Which of these dresses do you think would keep its appearance best
through many launderings?

51» In your Opinion would any of these dresses require Special or extra
care in laundering? Yes , no .

 

a. If yes, which one(s)? b. Why?

 

‘52. Do you object to the findings (belt, buttons, etc. ) or decorative
trim on any of these dresses? Yes , no

 

a. If yes, which one (s)? b. Why?

 

533. Do you think the fabrics used in these dresses are of comparable
quality? Yes , no

 

a. If no, which one is best?

 

Eat. Do you.think the workmanship (stitching, seams, hems, etc.) on these
dresses is equally well done? Yes ___, no

a. If no, which one has the best workmanship?

55}. If your daughter needed school dresses and you intended to spend $6.00,
in which of the following ways would you prefer to Spend that $6.00?

Buy one dress, similar to D11, at $6.00?

Buy two dresses, similar to D10, at $3.00 each?

   

 

56.

100

Cont'd.
Ehy'three cresses, similar to D15, at $2.00 each?

Buy one dress, similar to D6 at $h.00, and a second dress, Similar to
D15 at $9-00, Spending a total of $6.00?

Do you think the price of any dress in this group is excessively high
for its quality? Yes , no .

a. If yes, which one(s)? b. Why?

 

 

This is a group of dresses which have been made at home.

(Dresses in this group are D18, D17, D12 and D8)

57.

58.

60.

61.

62

Would you say these dresses are more attractive , less attractive
or just as attractive as those in the preceding group?

Of these two dresses which would you rather have for your daughter?
D15 ___, or D18 ___. D6 ___, or D8 ___.

D10 _, or D17 _. D11 ___, or D12 ___.

Which would you prefer to do:

Buy D15 at $1.98 ___ or make D18 at $1.78___?

Buy D10 at $2.98 ___ or make D17 at $2.u5 ___fi

Buy D6 at $3.98 __ or make D8 at €332.56 _?

Buy D11 at $5.95 ___ or make D1? at $3.30 ___?

Which of these two dresses, D15 or D18 , do you think has the
better quality fabric?

8.. Of D6 __ and D8 ?

30 you think there is any difference in workmanship between D6 and D8?
es no

*, ~

a. If yes, which one is better? b. Why?

 

‘ . , finb 4 ' ° ' ‘
dhich of the dresses in this group do you like best for general school
wear.

 

a . My?

 

 

 

 

6h.

10?

If you sew, which of these dress 5 would be the easiest (length of
time and difficulty) for you to make?

a. Which one would be the hfirdcst for you to make?

Do you think you could make a dress that would look as well as ,
not as good as , or better than the dresses in this group?

This is a group of dresseS'which are ready-made and are of the same price.

(Dresses in this croup are D16, D13, D11 and D9.)

65.

66.

67.

68.

69.

7CL

'71.

 

Which one of these four designs do you like best?

3. . YJJ-hy?

 

PMy one of these four designs do you like least?

a. Why?

 

would you select any of these dresses for general school wear for
your daughter? Yes , no

a. If yes, which one(s)? b. why?

 

would you select any of these dresses for Sunday or "better wear” for
her? Yes , no

a. If yes, which one(s)? b. Why?

 

Do you think that any of these dresses would require special or
extra care? Yes , no

a. If yes, which one(s)?

b. What special care would you give it?

 

Do you object to the findings (belt, buttons, etc.) or decorative trim
on any of these dresses? Yes , no

a. If yes, which one(s)? b. Why?

 

Do you think that the price $6.00 is too high, , too low , or

is the price you would expect to pay for D11.

:1. Do you think that the price $6.00 is too hig , too low , or
is the price you would expect to pay for D13?

b. Do you think that the price $6.00 is too high

. , too low , or
is the price you would expect to pay for D16?

C. Do you think that the price $6.00 is too high , to low , or
is the price you would expect to pay for D9?

 

 

 

72.

108

Which of these types of garments does your daughter prefer to wear?

To School For "better wear” Movies und the
house

  

One piece cotton dress
One piece taffeta dress
Two piece suit
Jumper and blouse
Shirt and blue jeans
Play clothes

Skirt and blouse
Skirt and sweater
Other (specify)

(The separates included in this group are: Skirts, 812, 813, 81h and 315;
Blouses, S7, 58, S9, 810 and 811; Sweaters, 51, 82,83, and SS. )

73.

7b.

75.

76.

77.

783.

80.

Which of the skirts in this group would you select for your daughter
to wear to school?

a. Why?

which of the skirts in this group would you select for your daughter
for Sunday or "better wear"?

 

a. Why?

 

In considering the price of these skirts would you select 812 at $3.00
_: 513 at $8.95 _, 5111 at 37.9 _, or $15 at $5.86 ?

wa long do you think it would take you to lengthen the skirt of $15?

 

Does your daughter prefer to wear a skirt with a blouse or with
a sweater?

 

(If she prefers to wear a blouse, answer questions 78, 79, and 80.
If she prefers to wear a sweater, answer questions 81, 82, and 83.
If she wears both, answer questions 78, 79, 80, 81, 82 and 83.)

Which of these blouses would you select to wear with the school skirt
you selected in question 73?

a. Why?

 

Which of these blouses would you select to wear with the Sunday or
"better wear" skirt you selected in question 7h?

a. Why?

 

In considering the price of these blouses would you select S7 at $1.98

,SB at $3. 00¥ 89 at $1.69 , 310 at $1.00 or 511 at
82. 25 ?

 

 

 

 

109

 

81. Which of these sweaters would you select to wear with the school
skirt you selected in question 73?

 

a. Why?

82. Whic}. of these sweaters would you select to wear with the Sunday or
"better wear" skirt you selected in question 71;?

 

 

 

a. Why?

83. In considering these sweaters would you select 51 at $3.95 _, 82 at
35.95 _, s3 at $17.98 _, or SS at 9.52.00 _?

81;. Which one of these three coat designs do you like the best? .
a. W? __

 

85. Would you select any of these three coats for your daughter? Yes _,
no

a. If no, why not?

 

86. Would you reject any of these coats because of color? Yes , no
a. If yes, why? __

87. Would you consider cost of upkeep of any of these coats to be
excessive? Yes , no

a. If yes, whi ch one(s)? b. Why?

 

88. Which of these coats do you think would be the most durable or would
wear the most satisfactorily?

a. Why?

89. Do you think that the price is too high , too low __ or what you
would expect to pay for Cl?

 

a. Do you think that the price is too high , too low or what
you would expect to pay __ for 02?

b. Do you think that the price is too high , too low __ or what
you would expect to pay for 03?
90. Do you think you could make a coat similar to C2? Yes , no

a. If no, why not?

 

91. If these coats needed more length, would you lengthen them yourself?
Yes , no

a. If yes, which one (s)? b. How long do you think it would
take you? c. If no, why?

 

   

 

92.

93.

9h.

95.

96.

953.

95>.

 

 

110

Have you ever bought a coat with "let-down" features? Yes , no
a. Did you pay more for it than you usually pay for a coat? Yes
no
b. If yes, was this coat justified by the additional length of time
the coat was warn? Yes , no .

 

c. If no, do you think such a "let-down" feature in a coat justifies
a greater cost? Yes , no

How long do you expect your daughter to wear her coat? One year ,
two years , or three years ?
Does your daughter have more than one coat? Yes , no

a. If yes, how many?

 

What brand names have you purchased in clothing for your daughter?

 

Check the brand names listed below that you have purchased for your
daughter?

Youth Time Judy Kent Cinderella Youngland
FEin Dapper Duds Love Young Town
Linda Lo Ship n' Shore Princess Pat Peggy & Sue
Flower Girl Suzanne Chubbette Coatcraft

l
|
|

Pandora Myra Mae Kate Greenway

 

 

a. were any of these brand names unsatisfactory? Yes , no

b. If yes, which one(s)? 0. Why?

 

Which of the following personality characteristics would best describe
your daughter? .

very friendly and sociable
Moderately sociable

Quiet and reserved

Very quiet and reserved

 

Does your daughter like people to notice or remark about her clothes?
Yes , no

a. Why?

 

In general, how do your daughter's clothes compare with those of her
neighborhood friends?

Much better About the same
A little better Not as good as her friends.

 

 

 

 

100.

101.

102 O

103.

lot.
105.

106.

107 o

108 o

lCY?

110.

111,

111

Does your daughter "dress-up" in your clothes or shoes for play?
Yes , no

a. If yes, why do you think she does?

 

b. If no, did she when she was younger? Yes , no

c. If yes, why did she?

 

Does your daughter ever borrow clothing from someone else? Yes ,
no

a. If yes, from whom?

 

Does your daughter decide by herself what she will wear each day?
Always , frequently , occasionally or never .

Does your daughter decide by herself what she will wear for special
occasions? Always , frequently , occasionally ___ or never

 

Does your daughter like to wear party clothes? Yes , no
Does your daughter show interest in taking care of her clothes?
Yes , no

Do you think your daughter is satisfied with:

The amount of clothes she has? Yes , no
The style of her clothes? Yes , EET:___
The quality of her clothing? 'Y3§f___, no

The condition of her clothes? Yes , no_-
The colors in her wardrobe? Yes ‘_:_no

The fit of her clothes? Yes __,"53

Are there any specific clothing items that your daughter does not
have that you think she should have? Yes , no

a. If yes, what are they?

 

Is there anyone whom your daughter tries to imitate in her clothing
choices? Yes ___, no

a. If yes, who?

 

What is the approximate height and weight of your daughter?
1kight , weight

Where does she go to school?

 

In what grade is she?

 

 

 

112.

113.

11h.

115.

116.

120.

121.

123.

12h.

125,

lid

How does your daughter get to school?
or by bicycle .

Walk , by bus _, by car

Does she come home for lunch? Yes , no

a. If no, does she buy her lunch or carry her lunch ?
To what clubs or organizations does your daughter belong?

In school outside of school

 

Does she take private music or dancing lessons? Yes , no

How often does your daughter attend church or Sunday school?
Frequently , occasionally or doesn't attend

How often does your daughter attend the movies?

Frequently ,
occasionally or doesn't attend .

What magazines or newspapers does she read?

 

If you.were asked to use one of these three names for your social
class which would you say you belonged to? Middle class ,
lower class or upper class .

In which of these brackets would you say your family yearly income
falls?

Under $2,000 $5,000 to $7,h99

$2,000 to $h,999 $7,500 to 39,999

Over $10,000

What type work does your husband do?

 

Do you ever work outside the home? Yes , no

a. If yes, is it full time or part time ?

b. What type of work do you do?

 

In which of these age groupings do you belong?
25 to 29 __ 30 to 3b 35 to 39 to to 115

In which age group does your husband belong?

25 to 29 __ 30 to 3b 35 to 39 no to us

What grade in school did you complete?

 

 

 

Index of Status Characteristics
Directions: Assign the individual or the status appropriate to the values
on the scale from "1" high to "7" low for each of the characteristics
selected for the index. .
A. Area lived in
1. Select residential area of highest repute in the community.
2. Better suburban and apartment house area; homes with large grounds.

. Preferred residential area, adequate grounds; good apartment buildings.

. Residential neighborhood with no deterioration; reputed to be average.

. Area considerably deteriorated but not slum area; depreciated reputation.

3
h
S. Area beginning to deteriorate; business or industry entering into it.
6
7. Slum area of the community; neighborhood in bad repute.

B

. House typg
1. Large house in good condition; adequate grounds (1A,2A,1B,2B)

2. L H in medium condition; M H in good condition; best apartment(3A,3B,1C,20)
3. 1M H in medium condition; large apartments in good buildings. (30)
h. L HI& M H in fair condition; apartments in fair condition (1D,2D,3D)
S. S H in good condition, good apartments in remodeled houses (hA,hB,5A,5B)
6. S H in medium condition; apartments in fair condition.(hC,hD,SC,SD)
7. All houses and apartments in bad condition (1E,2E,3E,hE,SE)
Note: Size (L H I l or 2 M H s 3 S H a h or 5)
Condition (good = A or B Medium = C Fair = D Bad = E)
20 possible types fitted into seven ratings.

A. (Area lived in)

 

B. (House type)

 

 

   

 

 

11h

 

MAPS AND DRAWINGS

 

 

   

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25

Lowest percen
collar workers, education
and income .

MAP OF
LANSING, MICHIGAN
SOCIO_ECONOMIC
AREAS

Highest percent white
collar workers, education
and income.

 

 

116

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The deveIOpment and evaluation
of an interview schedule, materb
ials and procedures for prefer-
ences and buying practices in
girls' outerwear

 

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