I

W
‘ |
l
‘ l‘
‘ HI.

1 I

H

\
l J

I I

I i

1

MI
W

!

'r
H

l

“W
'4
l“ H

, ,7.

,l
,J
M

‘1'

J
J

l

l

H

I
\l

 

AN AXLOTATHD BIBLIOGRAPHY AND CORRESPONDING
SYLLASUS FOR AN ADVANCED COURSE IN TEXTILES

SISTER FHA SIS GABRIELLE

‘ I

!

t

|‘_’

)'

 

 

r». ~r‘ Y Y r‘ '
I A: lfl'l‘.) [J {‘ r -‘-

W
”I

ummmmmcmmmmms

mumvmcmnsnnm

WWW

1957

“1513‘

11W

 

Imam-mm

WHOM

MAMW
Wont-Boob
“MB-Medical.
Wc-Wmmmmm
WD-Wmfim

Ml-WW
MZ-WMW
MtB-mw
“1113‘;me

3B3“

3855

WCTIOII

since small private colleges necessarily have s are limited
curriculm than state-supported institutions, they met Wat): tele-
scope into one or two courses the several phases of sue subjects which
are ordinarily treated in separate courses at the lsrger universities. It
was with this situation in sin! that the present rodeot was began. end
the writer attempted to develop s. one sonneter course in Advanced textiles
for the home econodcs department of such a college. the was encouraged
to incorporate an timl: topics or pet [rejects that she believed would
be important, but her main responsibility was to orgaxdse e course which
would help the students becou acquainted with current textile research and
various technological and econanic aspects of the textile field.

One ottho tiretp-oblems tobe solvodwas thatotprowidngthe
students with e survey of textile chemistry, which the writer believes to
be important in this era of synthetic fibers and detergents. 81300 M
would have only had two semesters of general chemistry, it would also be
necesssry to teach then some of the basic principles of organic chemistry
before application could be made to textiles and detergents. With that in
mm, eblock planwas node out inthe attempt to integrate some otthe
typical reactions of the basic functional groups in organic chemistry with
the practical applications which these reactions have in the textile field.
Sons of these tepics in the block plan have been worked out in some detailed
outline form to show the extent to which the writer intended to develop the.

l

in the classroom. Although the consideration of each topic would
necessarily be very brief and concise, it is nevertheless hoped that
enough could be grasped by the students to make their reading on tech-
nical aspects of nodern textiles a little more significant to then.

The second problem was that of acquainting students with textile
testing instruments and procedures when there were few, if any, instru-
ments available for then to see or use. By writing to the various
instrument companies and obtaining catalogs and direction male, it
seemed feasible to use these pictures and diagrams as illustrative
anterial to accompany the lectures on the nature, use, and significance
of each of the important testing instrumnts. By analysing research
reports of actual tests ads with these instalments, it was believed
that the theory given in lecture could be lads lore lard-DEM to the
students who, though they night never actually perfu- the tests then-
selves, would nevertheless be expected to read research reports intell-
igently and glean some practical value from then.

The various economic aspects of the textile field constituted the
third problem in the development of this course, because altMgh the
subject is broad the consideration of it met be limited to a few short
mks. It was decided, therefore, that a survey of the factors affecting
foreign trade and domestic economic status in the textile industry would
be enough to give students an overview of this unit and perhaps stimlate
their interest in doing further reading on some of the more specific
topics within it.

Another phase of textiles which we felt to be important was a unit
on textile consumption, which would apply all the principles learned in
the first three units to the selection and care of household textiles and
gamnts. Although it probably would not be treated as a separate unit

but rather integrated throughout the course, it is considered separately
in the syllabus Just to emphasise the points to be covered. 1

The final difficulty was that of developing a reading list which
would be limited to the references available either in the college
library or in the home economics department. To facilitate the organi-
sation of such a reading list, the writer decided to survey all the books,
recent periodicals, experimntel and extension bulletins, and industrial
pablications related to textiles that were available on saunas, to
sunrise and evaluate the content of each one, and to assign each a code
umber. Then, under each tepic within the syllabus, was listed the code
lumber of any references which would be good to use as source material.
The letter part of this code would indicate the type of reference, i.e.,
book, periodical, bulletin, etc., and the number would enable the reader
to find its location in the bibliography lore readily. It was felt that
thiswouldprovideabroaderandnore flszdblereadinglistfcrboth
teacher and student preparation of the various units.

Although there are other places of the textile field which would be
of interest to home economics students, the telescoping of course content
oangoJustscfarbeforethereislcssofdepthandvaluetothe course
as a whole. ‘fhat is why such tepics as the history of decorative textiles
and the consideration of furs end leathers were omitted.

The following information concerning the curriculum is here given
eothat theremeybeeonebesis uponwhich tonake anyevaluation ofthis
textile syllabus for a small private college. The proposed entree, which
would give three credit hours for a semester, would consist of two hours
oflectureandtwohours oflaboratoryperweekoveraperiedcfsixteen
weeks. The potential students, being upperclassnen, would have already
completed one semester of basic textiles, three semesters of clothing

5

construction, and one water each of the following courses: Color and
Design, Interior Decoration, Costume Planning and Designing, Economics,
and Household Physics. Such courses should have prepared then for arw
technical, aesthetic, or economic aspects of textiles which might be
incorporated in the syllabus which is proposed in this paper. The
students who would normally elect Advanced Textiles are those who plan
to be retailers, interior decorators, textile and clothing specialists,
home economics teachers, or Journalists for related publications.

ANNOTATED mumps!

Mimi-Books

l. ASH Omittee 0-13. AS'H Standards on Textile Materials. Philadelphia:
American Society or set hate 9
This publication contains the definitions and term, Isthods
of testing, andspecificatians for textile and related materials
developed by the ASH. In addition to this are tables on basic
mperties of textile fibers, tables for yarn umber conversion,
and drafts for several new test nethcds. In any amideration of
the analysis and testing of textiles in an advanced course, this
.bcokwouldbenostvaluableasanauthmticandcurrmtsoureeof
technical information.

mmuz. and Pfeiffer, 0. America's Yaw. law fork: lacsilian,
19
Although technical data essetxtial for the fabric technician
ienot stressedinthiebook, itgiveeascospleteastoryas
space per-its of all fabrics in use at the time of publicatixl.
It covers the history, manufacturing processes, finishing tech-
niques, andetandardsfcreachcfthe fibers, andie repletesith

3. Gaplili, Jessie.h Ram Fabrics. St. Paul, Hinnescta: Riverside Press,
939.

This booklet, written when rayon was the only nan-made fiber
in cannon use, organises such basic rayon facts as its history,
manufacturing processes, and economic statistics. One section
gives directions for a number of physical and chemical tests for
the identification and evaluation of rayon fabrics .

lo. amerce, v.3. Department of. Textiles Testing and Heating, Conner-

cial Standard 03 22:55. Washingtm: 0.8. Ooverment Printing
0 t 3., 9101’s

Provides standard methods for testing the serviceability of
textiles and a uniform basis for reporting results of tests. It
serves as a guide for testing laboratories so that confusion
reuniting from a diversity of testing methods can be eliminated.
Includes tensile strength, colorfastness, and shrinkage tests.

5. Consmer Service Group. Textiles and Testing Course of Study. Boboken,
ll.J.: U. 8. Testing Company, 1955.

Although in outline form, this bound copy of the course of
study offered at the 0.8. Testing Company covers all the basic in-
formtion pertinent to the analysis and testing of textiles as well
as to the technological advances which have been made concerning
the manufacturing processes. The numerous flow-charts, swatches,
diagrams, sample test reports, photographs, and tables not only
contribute to an attractive format, but also to a graphic and very
readable presentation of such technical information. It would be
very valuable as a basic reference or text in an advanced course.

6. Cum, 8.1!. gboratog Manual for Textile Chandstgz. Minneapolis:
Mess Publishing 00., 191.8.

This manual, which was wepared for use in the beginning
course in Textile Chemistry given at the University of Wisconsin,
provides experiences in the preparation and study of nicroscopic
slides of textile fibers; in the determination of chemical prop-
erties of fibers; in qualitative tests for their identification; in
bleaching, dyeing, and stain renoval of fabrics; and in such phys-
ical testing as breaking and bursting strength, abrasion resistance,
and colorfastness. The scope of this book is obviously mch
broader than the title would suggest.

7. Dahl, Crete. low to 31mm. Stamford, Connecticut: Dahl Publishing

00., 19550
Covers the principles involved in the purchase, use, and care

of sheets, blankets, and pads as well as of mattresses, springs,
and pillows. The discussion of the thirteen factors which deter-
mine value in buying sheets reflects the trend in use of standards
and specifications, and points out the importance of the analysis
and testing of textiles by manufacturers, research laboratories,
and distributors. Sons of the factors considered are grade of
cotton and length of staple; thread count and balance 3 tensile
strength; size, weight, and finish: and disusional stability.

8. Denny, Grace 0. Fabrics. Chicago: J.B. Lippincott Co., 1953.

This reference book, which not only gives definitions, des-
criptions, and illustrations of various textile terms, processes,
fabrics, and finishes, but also includes a discussion of the tech-
niques involved in the analysis and testing of textile goods and a
review of the many legislative measures that have been taken to
establish standards for textile purchasing, would be very valuable
as a ready source of isolated facts in the textile field.

9. Evans, II. and um, 3.8. 5 Guide to Textilgg. lew fork: John Wiley

[M 3m., 1310., 1939s
A compilation of the basic facts concerning the household and

clothing textiles which were in col-on use in 1939, so that the
average consumer and student of textiles could be informed of the
characteristics of the various fibers, their manufacture, the fin-
ishes which render then satisfactory for certain uses, and the care
required. Topical or dictionary-like amngenent of material was
used instead of the traditional grouping of topics into chapters.

10. lart, H. and Schuets, 3.0. A 8b in . Chicago:
houghton Iifflin 00., 953.

Anorganic chemistrytextwhichwaswrittentoservethcse
students who, though not majoring in chuistry, nevertheless need
to acquire a working knowledge of the practical aspects of this
science. The presentation of such topics as polymers, resins, dyes,
and detergents is made in an interesting and simple way for those
whcwanttoconsiderthuinrelaticntothetextilefield.

ll. nartsuch, Bruce. Introduction to Textile Chemistn. In York: John Kiley
and Sons, Inc., 19 .

This book covers such basic and pertinent information on tex-
tile fibers, both natural and synthetic, as their history and de-
velopeent, their physical and chemical properties, their processing
and manufacturing, and their expected behavior under the various
conditions to which they may be exposed. Some of the special
features which make it desirable for use by advanced textile stu-
dents are the chapter on chemical calculations as applied to prob-
lems in the textile industry, the survey of organic chemistry which
gives the student who lacks the background a better understanding of
the many organic reactions set in textile chemistry, and the chapter
on the chemistry of soaps and detergmts and their applicatiu to
the textile field.

12. Bartsuch, Bruce. Textile .Ch%tlz in the 2mm. lee fork: Join:
Wiley and Sons, Inc 9 . ‘

is the preface states, the experimmts outlined in this book
were designed to illustrate the chemical reactions involved in the
reparation, mamfasture, processing, and maintenance of textile
materials, and they cover the chemistry of wool, silk, cottm,
rayon, hard water, and soap. The section on identificatim of
fibers, and the thought-provoking questions at the and of sash ex-
periment would help to crystallise the students ' knowledge of the
pineiples involved in this particular science.

13. Batch, LP. W. lee Ierk: Hearse-Hill Book Co., 1955.
Themainobiectofthisbookistoofferareadableandteaoh-

able book for students who, though not pinarily interested in
organic chemistry, must understand organic chemistry because of its
close alliance to their major fields of interest. The material is
wanted briefly but thoroughly with emphasis on the characteristic
reactions of the various functional groups, giving particular
attention to such practical aspects of the subject as synthetic
fibers, plastics, detergents, and dyes. The chapter on polymers
includes a table which summarises the names and structural for-
mulas of the plastics and resins involved in the textile field.

11.. Haven, 0.3. %ustrial Fabrics. New Iork: wellington Sears 00., 1931..
book was written for manufacturers, retailers, and

students of textiles in order to clarify and extend the general
stock of knowledge regarding the physical properties of fabrics.
Although many years have passed since its pnblication, it gives in-
teresting information about early textile research methods.

15. Hess, LP. Textile Fibers and Their Use. Chicago: J.B. Lippincott, 1951..

Informatics: conceming the textile field is here presented on
a level suited to college instruction . It includes such topics as
the importance of textiles in the nonasic and cultural life of
man; the characteristics of fibers and fabrics; the influmce of
construction and finishing methods on cloth 3 the possibilities and
limitations of special finishes; the selection and care of textiles;
the factors which affect the cost of clothing and textiles; the pur-
pose and effects of government regulations as they concem labeling,
advertising, adulteratims, and taxation of textiles; and the
scintific methods used in the solution of problems pertaining to
teniles. Extra features which make it valuable as a text are the
suggestions for laboratory activities and a synthetic fiber idmt-
ification chart.

16. Hollen, N. and Sadler,'J. Textiles. New York: The Macmillan 00., 1955.

In this book, written for use in elenentary textile courses,
emphasis is placed on the properties that affect the use and care
of textiles . The authors included only those mamfacturing
processes which affect the nature of the fiber, fabric, or finish.
The graphic format with its effective use of charts, outlines,
and line drawings makes the subject matter readily understandable
for ailerons-m.

17. Johnson, Eleanor ll. ed. wool in the World. Columbus, Ohio: American

18. 1“,

Education Press, Inc., 91.9.

in educational booklet considering the properties of the wool
fibu and all the historical, geographic, and economic aspects of
its production from raw material to finished fabric . Some of the
particularly interesting and valuable topics are the relationship
of breeds of sheep to quality of fiber 3 the work of scientists to
immve soils, grasses, and breeds, to conquer sheep diseases; and
theanalysis efwoolasaneccnnaicec-oditythroughtheages.

J.3. museum Textiles. lies fork: Prmtice-hall, Inc., 1953.

e economic, technological, and cultural aspects of textiles
are considered in this text. Part on is a stat of the present
orpotmtialvalueoffibersinworldeo-aeree, andthereisvery
effective use of charts, graphs, and ups to sha cuparisons ef
fiberpu'opertiesandareasinwhichproductimofeachfiberis
important. Part Tao is a study of fabrics and the procedures by
which they are constructed, dyed, finished, and cared for, and of
the various agencies contributing to the improv-ent or standard-
isation of fabrics . Features which make this book especially
valuable for advanced textile students are the glossary of tech-
nical terms, the list of indexes cmnonly used in library refer-
mce work, the list of selected books on textiles, the list of
Journals and other periodicals of value in the textile field, the
list of abstracts for speed in reference work, and the inventory
of resources of the United States for textiles research, devel-
omt, education, and testing.

19. Manor, Leonard and‘wechsler, Harry; Manphade Fibers. New York: Rayon
“113118th 00., 1953s
Contains an.interesting account of the history, manufacturing
processes, dyeing problems, finishing techniques, and endauses of
the synthetic fibers, and is well illustrated.with.meaningful
ddagrams and photographs. A good reference for the synthetic unit
of any textiles course.

20. lerrill, G.R., Macormac, A.R., and.Hauersberger, H.R. American Cotton
Handbook. New York: Textile Book Publishers, Inc., l9h9.

A comprehensive review of the historical and economic back-
ground of cotton growing and manufacturing; the nature of cellulose
and the cotton fiber; the cultivation and varieties of the cotton
plant; the manufacturing processes from.ginning to weaving; the
the manufacture of cotton knitgoods; the dyeing and finishing of
cotton fabrics; and the physical and chemical testing of fibers,
yarns, and fabrics. This is a basic reference book for the cotton
industry and could be of practical value to the textile educator.

21. Skinkle, J.H.‘Textile Test . Brooklyn, New fork: Chemical Publishing

coo, Inc., 95hs
Since its publication this book has been in general use by

the textile industry as a source of information on standards as
well as on the instruments and procedures which are used in the
physical, chemical, and.microscopical testing of textile goods. The
tests include qualitative and quantitative analyses of fibers,
fabrics, and finishes, and evaluation of such properties as porn
osity, permeability, absorbability, drapability, serviceability,
and tensile strength. A most valuable reference for an advanced
course in textiles.

22. Taylor, LnD. Know Your'rabrics. New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1951.
This book by the noted lecturer at the New Yerk:8chool of
Interior Design considers standard decorative textiles and their
uses as based on structure, the characteristic expressions of
historic fabrics, and the principles governing the choice of cover—
ings for chairs. would be an interesting and informative source
for a unit on household textiles.

23. Von Bergen, W. and Iauersberger, H. 3. American Wool Handbook. New York:
Textile Book Publishers, Inc., l9h8.

A practical reference book not only for the entire wool
industry, but also for the textile student. It considers in detail
the historic and economic aspects of the wool industry; the breeding
and raising of sheep; the physical and chemical properties of wool
and of the specialty hair fibers; the grading, production, and.mar-
keting of wool; the the steps in the manufacturing from sorting of
fibers to the weaving of*woolens and worsteds; the dyeing, printing,
and finishing operations; the manufacture of carpets, rugs, and
felts; and the physical and chemical testing of wool products. A
comprehensive and interesting account of all the economic and tech-
nological aspects of the industry.

.r

10

2t. Iertheda, LandJeskq, H. W.Iswfckz

Minutes" 19 e
hisbookusdesignedtegivestudenteofhueecenuissan

.ganistutwhichsouldmsurethemaworkinglmewledgeef
uganicchemistrywhileuphasisingpodntsoffmdamentaliaper-
tanceanduittingtechnicalitiesferwhichtheyeuldfindne
late usefulness. The pactical application of these principles
isfolmdinclear,interestingdiscussimsefsuchtepicsesce-
poly-urination, synthetic fibers, dyes, soapsanddetergmts, and
synthetieresins. Iouldbeidealforuseinasurveyefrgenie
andteatilechedstryesfomdinanadvencedtextilecouree.

25. Iingate, 1.3. Textile Fabrics and Their Selectial. mglswood Cliffs,
New Jersey: Prontic , Inc., 955.

Presmte facts concerning the manufacturing mess of
fabrics to show how they affect the qualities that camera seek;
intern-statechnicalteras fwndonlabelsandinfactualadvere
tisuents of textile products; and gives principles for use in the
selection of appropriate fabrics for apparel and for each house-
hold goods as domestics, floor coverings, and winds-I hangings. the
information is directed riser-11y to students of textile retailing.

26. negate, 1.3. and Welder, 1.8. labors Swatch Book. hglewood

cliffs, lee Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 955.
this manual provides studats with laboratory experiments

whiehdeterminethegrades offibersandyams,thetypeefcu-
stanctim of fabrics, and the kind and permanm of finishes. It
also gives directions for testing launderability and stain re-
moval. To facilitate the wt of appropriate materials to
Washmnsnt,theauth¢eefferseteefeutcheste
teachers fa.- a animal fee.

27. hes-icon Association of Textile waists and Coloriste. IIIsms-teen
ants-m Dyes, 1m. «on. 11214, on, Is. ll(loveeber, 1956). 128-35.
A collection of the papers delivered at the AATCC salvation
dealing with synthetic fies. The condensed reports include such
topicsasthefollainga thehistca-yandsvuluatimoftestnstheds
for solsrfastness; uter and light tests; formula for determining
depth of shades; color scales as the key to colorfastness testing;
tipeonmingsulhu-dyes;develcmtoffhsttbes; synthetic“
for cottons; was for the ludrophobis fiber; dyeing polaacrylis and
polyester fibers; and antic-dyeing of nan-made fibers. They are
tectmicalinnaturs,butwouldhaveeuevalueinillustratingths

pinsipleeinvelvedintheeh-istrysfdyesahddyedng.

28. Appel, Lb. "hates-national (is-operatic: en Standardisatiu of Textile
Testingm Methods,u Journal of Bus Economies, mv, Is. 10 (Beecher,
1952 , 773-1..

Thisreportconcenstheworkofsevenlsountrisswhichare
promoting national and international regress in the developut of
standard textile teruinology and testing methods. It discusses the
background of the work, the 8.3. participation in it, and its
[resent status. The particular subjects “or consideration by the
textile committee are solorfastness, shrinhge, analysis of fiber
mixtures, Malt-sights sndnoisturs regain, h-idityand
temperature conditioning, nothods of seam, definitins, and
moisture. Bone notable results that have been achieved to
datearethesandZdesignatiufortwistandauiwes-ealsyst.
for exp'essing the weight—lug“: relations of yarn. such a report
wouldbevaluableinatextilsscoursewhersvertherelationbe—
twenmdmndafitextilerssearchwasbeingconsidered.

29.nlsnt,1rue.'lhatlsthemaceoftth.eEcenouistintheTextiJs
W" Practical Hoes lconuies, ”film, 1951). 1.83.
g e

Afterestablishingthsfactthatrstailfabricsndgarnent
buyershavebeutrainedelaostenlusivelyteusestyleandprice
asthsirrulesefplnehess,andthatfeweftheadiscusqmlity
andperfsnanceeffabrioswithanydegreeefcertainty,the
articlesuggeststtnthoneeeeI—istshelpteeupplythensedfor
minfesuedpeopleinthsbeyingsndsupplyingoftextileped-
nets.

30. W lorisu?‘ s an (August 30,1955). “-9.
Thisarticls vesanoverviewofthemtandpstntial
econuicstatusofthetextileintmstry. Itdiscueeesnotenly
therecentdsvelopentswhishteudtosakstheecsn-icherisens
a little brighter, but also the serious worries which still face
textiles-1. Aeongthsforuerarediscueedtheincreasedactivity
inretailstores;thebidbytheArlyQuartemstea-corpsfersix

ll

-,_

12

million yards of all wool serge, which gave a boost to the slump
ridden woolen industry; and the series of mergers which have
strengthmed the financial and organisational structure of the
industry. Among the problems still facing the industry are
plus-sting exports due to increased foreign cmpetition; declining
daestic markets due to the trend toward outdoor living and infor-
mal dress; retailer resistance demonstrated by merchants who have
been liquidating inventories and who order on a hand-to—mouth
basis, confident of quick deliveries frcn near—by mills. Such
practice causes havoc in production schedules, resulting eventually
in mill shut-downs, wild price fluctuations, and general instabil-
ity. The recomendations include getting closer to the consumer
and improving marketing and merchandising methods; concentrating
on product research; and developing tighter consumer standards.
This article would be very valuable as a source of information on
the present scmomic statue of the textile industry.

31. Burkhart, I. and Felix, B. ”Analysis of the Cross—sections of Synthetic

Piben,‘ Fibers, m, lo. 11 (Reprint).
Shows how the Uster Spectrograph is a useful auxiliny in-

strument for working in conjunction with the Uster Evenness Tester.
Tells how it enables the diagrams produced by the latter apparatus,
which gives pictures of the cross-sections of yam mterial to be
tested, to be studied so that the appearance of the finished fabric
can be anticipated, and causes of undesirable fabric variation
eliminated. A good reference article for use in a unit on the
analysis and testing of textiles.

32. Byaers, G.J. "Apparel and Textile Union Convention in May 1956.” Kong
Labor Review um (Juiy,1956). 776-9.

E article presents the highlights in the ccnvmtim of the
textile and garment workers unions , uhich was marked by concern
over civil rights and world probloss. Some of the internal union
affairs discussed were membership, organisation, wages, labor mity,
union ethics, union finances, and election of officers. The action
taken a: national issues included such problm as minimum wage,
civil rights, and economic affairs which call upon the Federal
Government to reduce poverty, insure full employment, and meet the
broad welfare needs of the peeple. The problem of reducing the
broad wage differentials between the northern and southern mills so
as to offset some domestic ecmonic problems, would be of particular
interest in studying the econanic aspects of the textile industry.

33. Caplin, Jessie. “Devices for Teaching leaves," Practical Home Economics
1111 (October, 1952), 20—21, (lovember, 19525, 22.

This lesson on weaves, presented in two parts, includes plain,
twill. satin, pile, and lens weaves. , and it orplains the use of the
simple lam. Miss Caplin not only gives definitions for each of
the above mentioned weaues, but also gives suggestions for illus-
trative materials, evaluations in terms of comparative comfort,
serviceability, and price, and includes class activities and
discussion questims which would be of interest to the students and
of help to the teacher.

13

31.. Mafia“ Serious Blow,' Textile World, CV, lo. 11 (lovedver, 1955),
s 0 ‘
The chairman of the National Omittee of the Northern Textile
Association analyses the significance of the agree-mt of our gov—
eruent at Geneva to reduce duties on low-wage foreign goods. he
considers the possibility of securing quota limitations on the
imports of textiles as the only course of action left for 0.3. tex-
tile nnufacturere who wish to stay in business. A unit on the
problems of foreign trade in textiles would find this article quite

interesting and informative.

35. Codish, 3.1L "Joining the Banks of Finishes} Mtical Hans Economics,
m (‘F'n-s 1959» 226°
Sunrises the coronising process for finishing fiberglas
fabrics, and gives the advantages resulting from its use as well as
the problems still to be worked out for its successful use in dark
colored fabrics. Gives good insight into the achievenents and
challenges of cue-mt textile research.

36. c-mittee of the Conference of New England Governors. “The Textile
wuss in In England," lonthll Labor m, can (mt, 1953)
.35,

This emittee report tells of the attempt to maintain the
tentileindastryinlewEIglsMbyneans ofthe reductionofwage
and work-load differentials between New England and Southern textile
mills and by increases in the northern lills' reactivity. It s.-
tains a number of recenandations for action to improve the New
Euglsnd mills' canpetitive status, claiming that if the region is
tomaintainthemanufacturingmeededtosurvivwasaflourishing
esonuy, it is imperative to keep up the textile industry. The
report stresses textiles' continuing importance to New England,
analyses the causes for textile losses in that region, and offers
such practical recon-adations as the reduction of wage differ-

'mtials bysriuinSouthernwages ratherthanacutinlorthem
uges, the equalisation of work-loads, and the increase of product-
ivity by keeping abreast of the latest advances in research, tech-
nelogy, finance, markets, and legislation. Would be a good article
fergivinganovervi—oftheduesticecenoqproblmssfesingthe
textileindustryinthetwetentile regionsofoureomtry.

37. coepc, ELI.- l'Colorfastness of Drapery and Upholstery fabrics: Coler-
fastneee to Light," Journal of Home Eomomics, m, lo. 3 (larch,
1951.): 155-60.

Reports the colorfastness to light of 222 drapery and uphols-
stery fabrics, rep-seaming all the colors, textures, designs, and
weaves": that were on the market at the time, and cmiders the re-
lationship between the type of (be used and its resistance to

' light. Graphic presentation of information in table and chart fern
mks conclusions more emphatic. Several comparisons were made to
show the relationship of colorfastness to light of these fabrics to
other properties such as fiber content, probable use , and type of
dyestuff. The dyestuffs cmsidered include Substantive, Mordant,
Boic, Acid, Acetate, Vat, and Sulfur dyes. The results of this
study would be of interest to textile teachers and to those inter-

' ested in base furnishings, either as teachers or consmen.

ll.

38s 'MW,‘ Tectygg m2! Bulletin, IV, "0e 2, 1940s

This article presents the history, the manufacturing process-
es, and the finishing operations of corduroy fabrics in a clear,
concise way. It would be valuable for use in any classroom study
of this particular type of textile goods.

39. Corkery, J.P. ”Earnings in Miscellaneous Textile Industries, October,

1953,~ long; Labor Review, mvn (lay, 1951.). 5364.0.

A study by the Bureau of Labor Statistics on the average
straight-tine hourly earnings of production and related workers
in a group of eight miscellaneous textile industries which showed
that the earnings ranged fran 81.10 to $1.60 in October, 1953. It
showed that the industries differ considerably in terns of product,
equipment, and other characteristics, and that variations in labor-
force and skill composition account in part for the differences in
the level of earnings among the industries, and also that the
differences in the levels of earnings for men and women reflect, at
least in part, the fact that women tend to be employed in the less
skilled or arduous occupations in the textile industry. nu- article
would have only limited value in a consideration of the econanic
aspects of textiles.

(.0. Germany, LI. and Densnore, B. “Crease Recovery and Dinensionsl Stability

u. my,

of Selected Clothing Fabrics ," Journal of Home Economics, EVIII,
No. 1. (April, 1956). 265-68.

Points out the limitations as well as the advantages of the
use of resin finishes on cellnlosic materials. In explaining the
advantages of improving crease-resistance, it stated that the use
of resins seas to involve the formation of cross-linkages between
the cellulose nolecules that increase elastic recovery, and that
the decrease in moisture absorption by resin-treated fibers tends
to lower the extensibility and stabilizes the fabric dimensionally.
In the voiles, chambrays, and crashes tested the results showed that
crease-resistant finishes tend to improve the crease—recovery and
dimensional stability of these fabrics but does not necessarily
sake then satisfactory according to consumer demands.

Dorothy. "Changing Times - Textiles,” Practical home
Econmics, mu: (Septmber, 1951.. , h2—h3.

Discusses the impact of our changing way of life on fashions
and fabrics, particularly the trend toward wearing nest of the
wardrobe around the year instead of just during one season. This
practice is made possible by controlled interior temperatures
which have increased the use of portable wraps such as sweaters
fa' wear in air-conditimed places and the use of light weight
lingerie all year round. ‘l'he great travel trend has also increased
the demand for comfortable, crease-resistant , and easy-to-pack
gamcnts. Lastly, the virtual disappearance of dancstic help has
been responsible in great part for the demand for fabrics which
require a minimum amount of care. These factors could also be
amidered in relation to their effect on the economic status of
the variom sectors of the textile industry. It would surely
stimulate interest and discussion in any textile class.

15

£2. E'Developents in Industrial Belatials - Textile Indutry,’ 1|th
gbor neview, LXIV'II (April, 195A), “3-H“

'1' article contains information and interpretation of the
various collective-bargaining developnents in wool and worsted
textile manufacturing in the first for soothe of 1955, sth
how they grew directly out of the ecmic problem of the
industry. Liquidation of saw sills which put my out of work
and lowering of tariffs which penitted unfair competition with
donestic goods, led the union represutatives to renew
contracts without modification of ages or fringe buefits. The
cotton and rayon divisions of the textile workers' mien agreed
tsforegodusndsforwage increasesalso, dnstoths “depressed
scone-is conditions“ in the industry. It gives a clear picture
of the sitmticn caused by the decline in textile buiness ad
theloweringofthetariffsontsxtileispcrts.

A3. Mans, 1., lobes-eon, 0., lmso,l., and Peterson, §.'Here's Your
household Linen Review," a Fan Bcimce. II, No. l (July,l956),
12-11.. (Reprint)
Anartielewhichserveyethelinen-rketsnduveedir-
ecticnsonthespecialkindsefcarsneededforsuchitasss
tablecloths, pine-ate, bedding, and tasling. All the facts

articlesinallthecc-mfibusareensrisedinwell-ergan-
isedchartfon. '

u»- M?! 11;; ma.“ W 21mm. 1951)
5 .
.i'hsteomioalandm-eoticalaswsllasaestheticsspestsef
Dynelisxn'esentedinthis interestingendeasytotmderstand
articlebytheheadefthe Boresaofuerohsndisedtandsrdsofths
Associated lerohmdising Corporatim.

55. Felons, Inga-“Nylon, F" motion has Economics, an (October, 1951)
L29 h 5'9.

' nan article, am of a series of four, discusses the phys-
ical and chuical properties of the poly-snide fiber, Nylon, and
evaluates its advantages and disadvantages for specific .d-sses
and care requiruente.

A6. Felons, ILA. I'Orlon and Acrilan,‘I Practical Hue Economics, 11!
(Jm. 1952), 19’ #1.

Pointsoetthefsct that (h'lsnsndicrilsnaretwotrede
sense for the sane synthetic acrylic fiber, the for-er being pro-
duced by Duhnt and the latter by the Chenetrand Corporation. its
popes-ties, advantages and disadvantages, and suitability to
particularud-nsesforthisfiberispresentedinsnintereeting
and poetical sensor.

10?. ralsens, ILA. 'Polyester l'iiur,‘I WW 1111
(m. 1951), “2, 561s
Interesting discussim of the history, chalecteristics, and
applicatimsofthepolyosterfiberproducedbythebul’ontcupsny
under the trade-nose 'Decrm'.

-.

lb

1.8. Falcons, LA. "Shrinkage-Control Treatments ," Practical Hone Economics,
ml (January, 19g), 17) ‘08.

Considers the two types of shrinkage which cause woolens to
change shape or dimensions - relaxation and felting - and discusses
the two main categories of shrinkage treatments, namely, chuical
treatments which modify the properties of the wool fiber, and
physical treatments which comist of coating or impregnating wool
yarns or fabrics with resins. The special care required for the
washing and pressing of treated woolens is clearly explained.

£9. Palms, ILA. “Special Textile Finishes," fltical Home Econxaics, rm
(Iarch,l951), 123,152.

Gives infomation on the methods for applying special finishes,
their durability and care required in laundering, and discusses the
various types of finishes available on the mrket with the prop—
erties imparted to fabrics by their use.

50. Falcons, 1.1.1. Water-Repellent Finishes,“ Practical Home Bow“, 1111

(April, 1951), 179, 206-7.
hphasises the fact that fabrics which are properly treated

with water-repellent finishes not only shed water, rain, an! snow
but also resist the effects of perspiration, resist spots and stains
of a non-oily nature, and resist wrinkling because they resist
dampness. Proves that since soil does not penetrate the fiber, but
renains on the surface, these fabrics not only stay clean longer,
but when soiled are easier to clean or to launder. Explains the two
main types of water-repellent finishes - durable and retreatshlo -
and describes in detail the various laboratory nethods used to
evnluate the 'effectimess and durability of this finish.

51. Falcons, Li. Plrinkle-Resistant Finishes,“ mtical Home Economics,
m! (“3” 1951). 27, 2‘9e
Presents the principles involved in wrinkle—resistant finishes,
both as to type and nethod of application. Analyses the features,
other than crease—resistance, which are imparted to fabrics by this
kindoffinish, andgives directions for propsrcarstopolongthe
desirable effects.

52. Fletcher, Easel If. and Roberts, Helen. “Predicting the leer-Life of Sheer
”Curtaining laterials,‘ gm of Base genomic” m1, lo. 5
1:11)" l95’+)s 318’19o

Since both household and institutional purchasers are interested

in the life expectancy of window ourtaining, these buyers often
appeal to the textile laboratories for predictions as to how 1mg
certain specific materials will last. This article shows how a
method has been developed to use the mathematical approach in
estimating the durability of surtaining, which is mainly dependent
on the rate of its deterioration by light and its original strength.
A good example of the type of research being done in the field. It
would be valuable for use in an advanced textile course where sons
review of current textile research is called for.

-

17

53. francs, 3., Run, 8., ishnre, $0., and Themes, Pl. 'Tsxtile

tariffs - A Il'hree lay Battle,‘ W 0', Is. ls (April,
1955). 91-100.

This series of four articles includes a ”pm of what the
0.3. govern-1t is trying to do in slashing textile tariffs; an
explanatim of why Japan has to find textile markets; a discussia
of the reasons for the 0.8. sill nen's opposition to tariff cuts;
andsnenalysis ofwhatshouldbedone abootthewholeproblee. in
easellutsoerceforarond-apofiaportantviewsoftheindwstly.

Sh. Parry, s.s. Imeandering of mu llylon,‘I Jamal of Hoes Iconosics,

m. '0e 10 (Dflm' 1952). ”Me
Isports a study on the selection and use of detergents, with

special referuaee to the lsmdering of white nylon. The work is
reported in three phases: wt of the cleaning efficiency
of tax household soap and synthetic deterguts to wash dirt out
of heavily soiled wlon test fabrics 3 wt of the effects
of detergents as shrinkage, strength, and color of “its nylon
inch had been laundered repeatedly with five of the tan deter-
guts used in the soil-r-oval stw; and determination of the
best methods for keeping white nylon white, inslding an evolution
of the use of bleeches and bluing.

55.'hideto8uslellxnownrinishingfc-andfinishes,'mm
' . 28(8pring, 1951.). 71-45.
this slphabetised coJJeetionefdefinitiens, descriptions, ed
evaluationsofvariousf‘inishesandfinishingter-wouldbegoed
touseinslessonmlabeling,beosusetrsd‘rksofthepopular
mfactmmanslysedforclai-s,direstinsfcoare,end

guarantees.

56. unwell, ILL, Johnson, 1.8., Lam, I», Dwell, I., Isevws, 4.8., and
falbett, P. |\fotandsrds - A leality for Today's Textile Cum-er,“
Journal of Base Economics, nun, so. 10 (December, 1956). 758-60.

Binaryofasynpesimmtextilestandardsatthetutiles
and clothing section nesting of the AHEA's annual convention. It
explains the difference between standards such as those developed
by the Anerican Standard Association and the Textile Distributors
Institute. Points out the poplar objection to the use of textile
standards, but then proceeds to dede the basic pinciples and
purposes. Discusses comersiil application of standards and the
cues retailer's outlook on the situation, which nintains tint
perfonsnce Inst becus the third factor in evaluation of textiles,
the two established factors being nice and style. i good reference
forwse instudying the [cable-s oftextile sun-ere.

57. Barbison,r.n.and1brahim, LA. “so-s labor Problusoffnlstrislisatia
inlgyptfminnalsofthemfloaniciggoffontioalnd
audacious“; lay, 9 , .

art contraststheadvancedtechnologyofso-softhe
lgyptian textile sills with their relatively prilitive and wasteful
useof-nposerresources. Itexplainshowigyptandothercomtries
who are lstesuers to indu‘rialisetim have reaped the benefit of
eupletelynew-odernplantsandadvancedteshnicalequiput,”

havefailedtodevelopeemisallyandpolitiosllyinregardts
wsrldtradeintextilegoeds.

1.8

58. lesion-A. and Boneggerfi. 'Iarn [venuess and Its Determination,"
m meul' m', .0. 1 (Jam'y, 195‘), 734’s (“pint
must» the new actuatic nethods of testing yam evenness
andstrengthtodeterminethefundaeentalprepertiesofayarn. It
paves the close relationship beheen yarn evenness and tensile
strqgth, and shows ha the irregularity diagra- of an unsatisfactory
yamqualityeaygiveusefulhintsastotheprobeblesoumesofthe
deficimsy.lcnldbevalusbleassnexampleoftextileresesrchin
any advanced textiles course.

99. neon, .l‘l.F. "fhe Finish Increases Beauty and Service) M's flew in has

galaxies (Sept-her, 1955), lib-10L, 122-”.

lengthy article covers all the fabric finishes in use
today, together with the pinciples involved in their developsnt,
the instruments and methods used in teetim their effectiveness,
and the various end-uses established by their application to fabrics.
in excellent two page chart su-srisee sons of the typical fabric
finishes giving trade nines; fabric treated, additional properties,
guaranteed method of application, tolerance, per-ensues to laundering
anddrycleaning, cereandeanplehangtagsandlabelswsedfor
identification purposes.

60. Hawkins, J.B. all! Keeney, P.l. “Qualities of Dacron and Gotta Blends
Used in Shirting Capersd with ill-cotton Fabrics of Binilar
construction,“ Journal of lime EconuichLVIll, (larch, 1956),
189-191..

This article offers an objective conpsrism of the castration
and performance features of these shirtings to determine the type of
advantages offered by the blends. the advantages of crease—resistant
andretentienoffiniehpevedtobedependentuponthecaregiven
tiring laundering.

61. llenry, IJ‘. "The lower Fibers in Decorative and Household Fabrics,"
what's lee in Hue Bean-ice (October, 1952), 67, 158-162.

Efiluetes the abmty of mien, Orlm, Fiberglss, Dynel, Plastic,
Fibclreyon, andVioaretogivedu-ability, naappearaneeover
aloagperiodoftiae,andesseefcaretcdeeorstiveendhousehold
fahricsinadditiultothetraditimallyssudltquslitiesefbeeuty,
had, desiu, and styling.

62.”, LF. 'IeerbriesHaveFlannedPerfmefl lbst'slainlo-e
(Sept-her, 1952), 82, 133-39.

An iugaecovntcftheinfluenceofthesyntheticfibers
nfabricpcperties.lncledessdiscussionofthepopertiessnd
pedestich.ofscrylic,polyester,andseinfibe1e,snd
develops the advantages and pinciples of blending fibers, pointing
out the relationship betweu cantent parentage and effect on fabric
performanceJt hasa chart which gives typical appareluses and
fabric characteristics of iorilan, Dacrm, Dynel, Orlaa, snd'ieare.
thiswouldbeanencellmtarticletousessrefsrenceinenym-
cussiunofthesyntheticnbers,bessuseelltheiapctantfaetssnd
pointsefcuparisonordifferenceamngthevarioustypesare
s.risedinbriefandgsephicfon.

19

63. Henry, IJ. “Opulent or Gasml - The look of Velvet, Velvetea, Dorderoy,‘
lhat's New in Home Economics (December, 1955), 28-3‘.
interesting and informative article analyses the difference
in construction processes involved in each of these pile fabrics, and
gives principles governing their purchase, use, and care. W nit
on summer probleas of textiles would find this a valuble reference.

6‘. Rolled, II. and Roberson, 0. “living Today's Pabrios', 1212 Fan Science,
11. no. 2 (Angst. 1951.). 11-11.. (2mm)

Contains an interesting and practical discdssicn of the char-
actcristios and inportance of informative labels; the recommended
techniques for laundering synthetic fabrics ; and the problems of
heat-set wrinkling, ”permanent” pleats, and pdlling which are oft.
net in connection with garments made of these fibers. Another
articlcwhichcouldbeputtogooduseinatextilemitoncon-
sneer problem and their relation to research.

65. Hanger, 3. “The Uster Instrunent fa- the Stapling of Gotta: and Rain
Fiber”; ournal of the Textile Institute 11-11 (February, 1951 ,
”’71.. '0 t

A report frm the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology «1 the
instruments used for the stapling of textile fibers, which points
outits advantagesanddisadvantagesaswcllasthcnsthodstcbe
followed in its use. The Staple Diagraa, reduced by the instnmt,
is of considerable interest and helps in judging the quality of the
fibers as well as changes of quality that occur durirg messing.
Ooodsourceofinfmtiononthetypeoftextilereeearchbeing
carried on in foreign countries.

66. 'IapdrtedWoolms -PriendorroeofDonestic W'W
nu (Winter, 1951.). 102-105.

This article analyses the purpose served by imported woolens;
the history of this type of importation) the effect of low wage rates
in other countries; and the production of short warps in specialty
fabrics. A chart smarises information on the traditional imported
fabrics giving types, uses, and countries which export than.

67. "The Japanese Again,” Ngsweek, nu (Amt 1, 1955). 65-66.

Considers the effect of the increased shipments of textile goods
to Alex-ice after the lowering of the tariff. Although the total
number of square yards of imported cotton is little over 100 aillion
cuparcd to the 11 billion of domestic output, it has been stated
that a quarter of a minim yards a week of low-priced Japanese
goods are aaple to starve out industry of profit. It shows how
Japan's low prices are nade possible by low wage rates (22 cents an
hour canpared with 31.30 in this country), and also by its complete
rebuilding of its textile mills with nodern, efficimt nachinery.

68. Jmee, lary Elisabeth. "laundering the New synthetics," Meal Hone
omics XIII (February, 1953). 31.1.9.
ts out sisilaritics and differences in properties and
laundering techniques for the synthetic fibers such as Nylon, Orlon,
Daorm, and Dynel. The laundering techniques included type of washing
kind of soap or syndet, bleaches, dyes, ironing, and spot r-oval.
Discusses the difficulty of keeping white wlon white.

”.mhrthal. ”WWWWflW

m(m1955).239-l.2.
stepsinthscmrsnlqlissltutilspsdswfl.
aretobeperehasedtofilladefintencedanltbna tbs

Wumnumumwmmu

mm, ILII, lo. 3 (larch. 1997):
subjectiveaswallascbjectivecqarisueftbcufortual

tctilss.
‘ll. wuwmm,-WM(~,
1”,)9M3e _
h tuninchartfoegcd'allthecemntanils

73. Idea-115,1. Mfutavereaslswbs} ..
m'. he 6 (m, 1952). “We
MWMMivearticleaaalysestheffectcfac ,
mauflhumaudfiniehingolaisscnthesiutoftheconnssr
'vdlensheconsidcrstheparetnseofafahric.lthcldsthatcestasre
shouldhavethewmertuitytcbuyfahricsgaaranteedteneteertain

 

muss, LI. ammo. 'lewtelewuthehwl‘ahissfw

W. 11W. 1956). 16-18. (la-mu)
thpcesihletrcnfilsspotetobeenceuterediaensawiu

usynthetisoraesin-finishedfahades,aulgivesolear,preetisal
Weathetechniqeestebeassdineveae-iuthcssdim-
“We

'15. 111-. u. 'I— Inm M' W (AI-'11- I”).
ans-5. 30-32.

inmlIaticncfthednpu-yfabrissaveilablsatthetindpt—

specifisfiestaffsandachartcftbesusedfcrfourteendtham
tastilsfiberen—risetheinfcmtioninagephicwav. thisuuit'
aftertilschuistryeouldbe-deme-animlhaseefthisstcry.

'n. e- u- leI-n.‘ W m (m 10- 1955)»

‘3. brris, II.A., Lund, L.0., and Phelps, 13.1.. w 3111th Cooper“, I

”.‘h

”H'bw

of nuns Econondce ILVIII, lo. 10 (Deccaber, 1956), Tito-78.

ports a stow on fourteen plain-weave suitings containing
blcmls of Dacron, xvlon, Orlon with wool and rayon, together with all-
Dacron, all-rayon, and M fabrics. “these suitims were analysed
with respect to certain properties that affect durability, ease of
cars, confcrt, and appearance, and the firalings indicated that while
the different fibers my cmlenorlt each other in blended suitings, the
castaershoaldbasshisfinalsslsotinnofaauitimonthefabric
characterinuswhisharoofetaostiwportancetohin. ibisarticle
wouldbsvalnablstoussasaniunetrationoftherelatimehipbetwesn
ocnmr dunnd and textile re-arch.

ran-u:- owls-at." W 1117111 (Mo

W
1955):“He
Analysestbintemlandexternalcausssoftbwids-epeadun-
mulchglandtaatilscoamnitieusurveystheconditions
efthedisplasedworloersgandcffenrenediesforthiseconuiepob-
1-intheimastry. hintmstingandinforntivearticlsforuse
inaclassroucomidcrctionoftbrelnoationcftextilsadllsfxu
nerthtoeouth,andtheeffcctitlnsluboththcimstryandthe

.- b.30(r.n.1951.). 98-102.
- t .. - ,thsrslatiouhipcftb
rend-chlabuetwy,thepilot ,andtheapplicationlaboratcry
tothedevelop-ntefncwfibarsandfinincufcrecaststbscurefor
rssinfinishesyellowedandweahenedbychlorimretentionsandtxeats
efotherpeblsasyettobesolvedbytartilsreeeareh.inystudyof
tctilscustrywuuldfindmcticalapplicationsintmu‘ticls.

  

0",th Ross. “futilesandfestim'fms,” mugmw,

m (”s 19%)s 17-19: All.
h-risssthecontcntoftbethrecweeksmrconrseinhxtile
feetingcfferedyearly,inclding1eviewofrcwaatcrisls,yxrns,and

of finishing and dyeing; physical and microscopic
various

5
5

intangible
Weftatilssgandfieldtripstosucbplacesasalbeimam
finidxingplant,atamcry,atestinglaboratoryofaangaaim for
mapatternconpany,andthestudioofadressdeaigner. the
val.“suchacourss,andevenofsuchanarticlc,toaclassinad-
vancedtextilss is obvious. Sou particulaflyiuterestiutcpicswere

crontheanalysieandteetingoftertileswouldbeudeinterecting
andinfccntive by this typcofarticlewhichm-arisestheinportent
Weandpaocederssinussbyttninmnrytoday.

23

82. Paalk,l.3. “Use of Acceleretor for Laundering Terry ”law
bychangcs inThinlmess, We , and Absorption} 1;... .
W 1111 (March. 1957 . 192—96.

Reportsanatteapttodevelopalaboretoryuthodcf
urinal wear of household textiles so that the lent}: of ties needed
forthexn-e—evalnaticnofsuchitsmcouldbcehortened. Thiswsll
wittenartiolecmldbcusedasancxanplecfthspodntstcbe
inslndcdinthcrcportoftcxtileanalysisandtestiru.

83. Phelps, 3.1.. ct a1. "Seniuability of four Types of Gotta Fell-ins,u
of Home Do ILIII, lo. 10 (Decedaer, 1951), 788-93.

um; ram 53% concerns the serviceability of Ninth,
poplin, uiting, and Jean when used for uniforms worn by dietitians,
ran-see, and other professioml where who held that suvicsability
is an outstanding require” for uniform fabrics. The relative dar-
ehility of these foun- saterdals, based on visual crime of wear,
was substantiated by the manurement of such fabric characteristics
as weight, thickness, breaking strength, and elongation. ms poplin
movedtobc the met servinnablsofthe far fabrics, andthe sui
thslcestdurable. Buchanarticlsshowsthepractioalnssdardap -
cation of textile testing.

3.. Freeway, 11.3i 'Report on Ion-flown fabrics," W (Jar-nary, 1956)

Prescntsthslateetinfornationonthcimportantmmfactuersd
mu fabrics; tells what non-wovenanterialsare used for; an!
describes the equipment and netth used in its mnufacture. Includes
feltedandbonded typesofnon-woven goods for scoresofeui-uscs. It
emfldbeegoodrefcrencetcuseforaneverviewefthisaspsetefth

mm.

85. Price 6.1. 'The StoryBehimcotton Research,'
. so. 3 (JIM-mt. 1955). 15. (Reprint)
Considersthepurpossandp-cgrcsscftheneasleylabore
TmsiandllCollumThenainochctiveoftheworkthsrsistossd
outinportantornewandextcndedchoharacteristdcswhioh-ybs
carried by the cultivatsdandwfldcottons of the worldandtheir
varimhybrids. Thenntstcpistodeviscwavsandaeanscfusing.
thenintheinproveaentofourcultivated American Upland types. This
rathcrtcchnicalarticlemldlnvelimitcdimportanceinatextilcs
class, butitdoeepointupveryclearlyanothertypeoftestilere-
sesrehwhichisbeingcarriedoninrelatientcraenterialquality.

86. Quiz. 4.3. "The Cor-user looks at 1953 Fabrics," W

m, b. 9 (November, 1953), 643-47. ‘
Thescciologicalandcconnnicfactorswhichinflncncsthcmment

drifts in preference for one fiber over another are analysed in this
intmstirg article by a textile research manager from DuPont. The
noond problem considered is that of the channels of consumer infor-
antion, and it points out the distinct objectives and responsibilities
of industry and education in that regard. The third topic treated by
thcauthoris thatofblauiedormixedfabrics, andholpstonakctb
article a very profitable source of significant informtion on uonosis
and consuner aspects of the textile industry.

  

 
 

§

Z.

87. Quig, 1.3.3 Tesi, LL, Goldberg, J.B., Gotchell, 11., and laser, 9. “he
Inhstry Research in Textiles," gm; of Hess Econonics, nun,
lo. 3 (March, 1956), 177-83.

i syposius nude up of represmtatives of industries comes-nod
sith the new synthetic fibers, with acetate, rayon, cotton, and wool,
whichdsscribesscneofthecm-rentcmercialressarchonthesefibers
all! the fabrics ends from then. As for the first of these topics,
synthetic fibers, the author points to a threefold aspect of research,
randy, 19 dsvslepunt of technology for the production of autistic
fabrics which sill give the mximn utility for sodern living; 2) dis-
eovery and development of entirely on fabrics and see end-uses for
syntheticfibers;and3) carrying mttextilereeearchonnesfibersto
determine whether creativity can be further extended to satisfy the se-
ciological and technological needs of our progressive civilization. The
second article shows how research on triacetate has ads it possible
forittobensedto preflcethekindoffabric desiredbytheAnerican
textile consumer. The author of the third article shows how reessr-ch
by the rayon producers has resulted in constant improvement in rayon
staple and continuous filament, as well as in finishes for rayon fabrics.
Gumnt cotton research, summarized in the fourth paper of this sympos-
inn, covers three levels of the irxhrstry - fiber production, textile
processing, and fabric finishing. The last article of this series
reveals that the areas and objectives of wool research today are con-
conned with production, processing, hurdamntal fiber properties, and
fiberandfabricmdificatien. Anoreellenterticleforanoverviesof
inIbIstr-y research in tutiles fa- use in an advanced textile course.

as. “new and Acetate} Prec Hans Ecorromics m (lurch, 1952): ms 133.
A brief 0 the Fade Trade Commission rules for labeling

rayon and acetate fibers. Since these two fibers differ in the my they
are lamfactured, in shat they will do, and in the care they require, 1.
the ETC rules to regulate their labeling and description have been
mlgatsd to help consumers select and care for fabrics containing
one or both of these fibers. The article mixes the characteris-
tics of each of these fibers, the mnufacturing processes specific for
each, and the m requirements. Would be ideal to use for a practical
studentprcblainaunitontextileconsunptimandlabsling.

89. Roseberry, Edi aside to Fiber Properties,‘ WW5, rm:

(septa-bar, 1953). 26-27.
Theptn-poseoftMsguideustehavebasicfactsaboutfiber

woperties arranged in such a way that the consumer could capers th.
in considering then for a specific purpose, for sample, sarquisetts
winder curtaining. The author suggested three steps to be followd in
any selection of fabrics: 1) List the properties you want in order of
importance; 2) hfer to the property chart and list all the fibers
which satisfy these requirements in order; 3) Find those that are
listedeverytineandlookforanyothercharacteristics whichwould
sake the. more or less satisfactory. Some of the properties listed in
the chart are strength, specific gravity, moisture absorption, elastic
recovery, heat resistance, light resistame, abnsion resistance, wrinkle
resistance, dimional stability, and crease retention. The consumer
aspect of textiles could be sell illustrated by usirg these article in
the textile classroom A practical problem to be solved by the students
could be easily worked out from this chart.

25

90. Saunders, D.A. 'Bulington Weaves a Hes Pattern," Forums, 1’. (December,
Shows how Burlington Hills is in the masher one position in the

textile industry as a result of the Pacific Hills, WM“
larger-s. Reviews sons of the advances node under the leadership of
Spencer Lose such as diversification in usesef traditional. fibers,
decentralisation programs, and the building of modern plants with
efficient equipment and layout. The effect of the recent trerfl in
mergers is clearly seen in this lengthy but interesting article.

91. Saundiezs, on. I'm. Star-iest llorger Iet,’ gm, 1.: (April, 1955).

i step-by-stsp report on the triple serger negotiations between
Textron, American Woolen, an! Robbins Hills to form Texts-en Ami-icon.

Gives insight concerning the impetuous Roy Little of Textren and th
obdmts Joseph Ely of American Woolen and their influence on their

respective canpaniss. Points up new of the sconenic and meagerial
aspects of the textile industry.

Q. Saunders, DJ. and Par-leer, 3.8. 'The Sunny Outlook for Clothufl m,
m (April. 1951.). 23842. 133-36.

Analyses the great changes in the apparel market that have
scorn-edduringthe pasteightyearsasaremlt sfthechangngny
efAmericanlife andthe trendtolardmre casualdrsss. Lists”
of the important factors that have been responsible fa' the revival
in the cotton narleet, namely, the trend toward infoml dress, tin
tbvelopment of no-iron, wrinkle-resistant finishes, pumpsnt glases,
and enboesed effects; magnificent styling together 11th the traditicml
virtues of being washable, shrinkproof, durable, colorfast, an!
basically low in price. Other topics discussed at length are tie
growth in the synthetic market and the decline in the demand for wool,
m, and acetate. in excellent and graphic mmary of the fiber
market changes from 1939 to 1953 is presented in chart fora, arri would
be very helpful in any classroom consideration of the sounds aspects
of the textile industry.

93. Saunders, 0.1. “The Twilight of American Woolen,“ m, nn (larch,

1951.), 93-96, 198-2)!»
Report on American Woolen CWs 1952-53 deficit position,

its managerial and operational shoe-mending coupetiter's views, fis-
cal and physical reorganisation plan, future prospects, liquidation
issue, and corporate history. Such an article points up the importance
of modern equipmnt and efficient layout for economic success in the
textile industry, and gives indirectly a better understanding of the
issues involved in the subsequent urger of American Woolen. with Tettrsn.

9t. '1 eastwar- enthelsrll,'§,3, m andborldfiem, mvn (sep-
tuber, 1951.), 106-9.
This tersely inferntive article represents the result of an
utensive research on a problem of outstanding importance, namely, the
scone-is situation in the textile and clothing industries. It tells

tbsignsofinprovementafterafesyearsslump, tellsrdratisbe-
hirrlthe change,arriestiaates how far it is likelytego. Eachof
the separate industries intm'nareanalysed-ootton, rayon, acetate,
andsool. Aunitontextileeconomicswwldbericherbyimluding
thisarticleinthereadings.

$

95. Sellenberger, 11.3. “Cationic Softmers - Their Secondary Effects on fertile

Fabrics} Amrican Dyestuff heme}; (Jannry 28, 1957) 51-57. (build)
Sine catEnic softeners frequently play an important role in the

various chancel finishing treatmnts which are applied to fabrics, a
study was made to determine the effect of cationic softeners on secon-
dary fabric properties. The softeners were applied by accepted pre—
eedures to Acrilan, Arnel, cotton, wlon, rayon, and wool fabrics um
ndll conditions. An attempt was rude to determine relative differences
between softener types on such fabric properties as tear strength, sen
strength, electrical resistivity, aging, heat, color change remaining
from the latter two, and from ultra violet light. Results of these
tests as related to the various individual fabrics are discussed aid
test data is presented in table and graph fare for new refereme. 1
unitontmmchenistrywmldfimeeeticalapplicctionetoite
ninciplss in the technical article.

%. atoll, 3.6. “An Imps-owed mltipurpoee Abrasion ITester and Its Application
for the Evaluation of the Vicar Resistance of Textiles... gentile Research
goumal, 111 (July, 191.9). 391.411.. (Reprint)

his article reports the development of an inpreved mltipurpcee
abrasion tester after systematic consideration of the achazflcs of
fabric near and enensive experimntation with various test uthode ad
machines. It claims that the apparatus is capable of quantitatively
assuring resistance to flat-, edge—, and flex-abrasion unthr carefully
controlled conditions, producing more- and sicre-wear wear patterns
micharethesmeasthoseobtainedinactualwear. ivalnablsarticle

for gaining an appreciation of the euly stages in the developed. of
this type of testing instrumnt for textiles.

97. atoll, R... l'lnboratelry Evaluation of the Wear Resistance of Hem-oven Fabrics"

Agggnan Dnetuff homer, n, so. 10 (Kay 11., 1951). (Reprint)
usses the nature of the breakdown of non-woven fabrics by

complex sechanical wear actions. Since flex abrasion and sin-face ab-
lesionunderdryandwetconditionsarecomideredtcbecriticalaeticm
in service wear, test procedures for wiring resistance to these::
actions by leans of a new instmmsnt are described. ll'he results obtaimd
enfourbondedfiberwebsareusedtodenonstrate the relative precisisn
« the methods and their capacity to predict wear resistance in general.

Amunitontheanalysisandtestingoftenilsswmfldfindthisartiele
evaluablssoureeofinfomtiononinstnmntsmdprooemres.

980: M. EsEe‘ th, 9.1", ma “1“", 3.3. "attach 5‘ 13mm and. .
Dry Cleaning on Laboratory Performance of Certain Resin-Finished Hinter-
Cottons,‘ % of Rom Economics, XLlI (larch, 1957), l97q202.

Gone are of sets of comparative care procedures on resin-
finished winter cottons. The findings showed that the test fabrics peb-
fomd better when dry cleaned than when cashed by either nthod in
respect to disensioml stability, strength, crease recovery, and min-
tenance of etrigiml color and hand. Renate also showed that automatic
leshing, while having no more adverse effect on crease recovery than
hand washing, was acoomnied by greater shrinkage, loss of hand, an
watercolor-change. Thistypeofsnalysisandtestingcouldreadily
bedom inanadvancedtextile coursewhere themnberoftestingin-
strmtswouldbelintedauithemmberofstudentsl-Jl.

 

mummy-mm.- “111...,

(m,1956).6 .
MWRMatm-dumwm

mwmcmmuwmrmmpmuam
ntbuutom.1tmtboddmuoudmhotm
aqua-,mmummwmmmmw
mmmtmamwnoimmmmtm
M, ww¢rmrwmhummm
umdmtammmmmhhim. mmmwmm
mmuwA—mmmmwmm
aniumuomthumtth-‘on
mtmmmmmmmm. Attbcohnuo
Wmummmmmgwdm.m
Wmmmmmmtmmmm.mmm
utmmmmmwmmmmu. filmm-
nucmum-mumtormmmotm
«mwcmmummmmnuu
tum-chpmmmmusotamm,
mummmmmmmmhm
MMMthhmm. Mum-tram!
mmmWMu-mummm, but-mum
wmummmmuuuugmm

MthWthM' WWII.
AManmmnth-WW

mlhmflutithubunhitbytmbmmmlofld
mngwawumumkntmmm:map,
mmummummmm-mmmm.
mmrutmtrmmua mun
”Mythtithuhmc—pthyu umotm,hvmmml
chain‘s, “fluctuates-flu, “manna!
“MitummgmmtmmMru-puuo
WMWJOIWM. Itmnbtgooduucioto
WhammrwnWQWuom-ua.

min-gym. mum-W 0V,l-.n(m.1955)

nammmmuxmummwm
(W10, 1955mwtmnnoammuma
hunt. Ittriutoomblhhtbhotthntmhumunm
Mtuwua.tmmm,mmuumu
um,1t¢1mmtmmumwmm. Ioddboagood
mmmzcmmummnnmmd
nmmmmamuaotmtmmmmm.

mach—gamma mu Wilbur-awe“.

h. 9 (80m, 1956). 32-33, 117.
WWWthmm-mhummfln,

mmmmmWw-vmmmuu
WNWom-ml. ItdutolllotW-tht
”mummmmmmmmw
mummmmm. qutthobutcmm
amMWMIQmmaWW.

2
i
i:

28

103. M melmandnentlsy, lillicent. "Ti-hetedhseenmuetete

rm.,~ Practical Home Econanice mm (rem-y, 1955). 82-81..
This s eseon p was loped with four objectives in

View, namely, to distinguish acetate'e qualities and how they cen-
pere to other fibers; to describe Interials and methods used in tin
promotion of acetate; to point out the most suitable uses for
acetate 3 and to give instructions on the proper care of acetate
fabrics. It suugeststheuseofecnespecificvisualaidsandin-
eludes sane test questions for use in reviewing the lesson. A1-
meughthshescneaedevelepedforhighschoollevel, theresre
unyibasshichcmeeusedcnahighorleveleswell.

101» Voter Spectropaph Is Comidcred a Valuable Hill testing tool," m1!
xtile Re m (February 11., 1957) (Bewint)

Shows this new instrument pinpoints infmtion hm tb .
Evenness ibeter making possible the control of most yarn irregular-
itiee. It lists the four functions performed by the Spectrograph as:
1) It allows a correlation between yarn iragululties and fabric
appearance. 2) It makes possible the eXploration of that is causing
a specific yarn irregularity. 3) It sets up a tmtwcrthy guide so
that the mill can improve its fiber control. I.) It gives a permanent
"history" of the sample from raw stock to spun yarns. In spite of tin
fact that it is very technical in content and style, this article is
onethatcwldmadflqbeusedinaconsidsrationefthe instrunnts
used in the analysis and testing of textiles.

105. Hensley, LL; “Finishing of Acetate Tricot,‘ The fitter (July, 1952)

Reprint
Reviews the qualities that the consumer looks for in tricet

knit garments and shows how research has developed processing and
flashing techniques to ensure these qualities. Discusses the cus-
tomary netde of dyeing tricot in rope form, the advantages of
using pneetting machines in connection eith a use uthod oat contin-
uousdyeing, andingeneral givesabetterunderstandingofthis
phase of the textile hidistry. ~-

106. My, LJ... Sellenberger, W.S., and Feyler, D.P. “A Study of Ream
1n Mod Carpeting.“ W (m 16. 1956),
30-33- (Reprint)

Presents data relative to the dyeing and finishing of 100‘ rum
sndnyonblended with nylon, acetate, andeool in tuftedcarpeting.
Discusses factors which the cwer met consider in piece dyeing and
stock dyeing with direct or vat dyestuffs, along with test netheds
sud eukuse specificatiom. Some emphasis is placed on the necessity
for westuff selection as related to fastness requirements, level
dyeing, and suitability to rithstand carpet cleaning and spot re—
nnltechniquee. mmscfmpflnaksmgwnandnoflwdsef
isolating sens causes are described. It revises current interest
in new dyeing and finishing equiplmt and methods, including data an
the general use and value of soil-resist treatments. the article
also gives infatuation concerning discoloration in finished carpeting.
Both the unit on textile chemistry which considers dyestuffs and the
unit on household textiles would find “Jumble information in it.

29

107. m, I.J.. 'Tricot-Dyeirg Isthods Affect Fabric Strength," m1;

lor___l_d (April, 1952) (Reprint)
*hpmsafiudymdebytmbnihflesmchbepartmntofthe

Amrican Viscose Corporation to deter-nine the degree to which dyeing
-thode affected the strength, yield,and shrinkage of trieot fabrics.
i'Io flee-charts sccompaxw a brief description of the regular canner-
cial mthod of dyeing and the new Viscose continuous preeetting an!
mm imiseoetmaftheoperations Win
the two methods shows how the new continuous saves tee-thirds the
initialcapital investmentanialmstthree-quarterethe doflyeest
oflabor.Agoodexampleofthe typeofreeearchbeingdominthe
inbutryiteelftomthecostoftsxtihssmfsctureandteil-

prove the product.

c3."lufi,H.L."rextiJsSoftenerefa-chelaundering, W

m ILIX, Ho. 2 (February, 195?), 13-8.
his brief description of the nature and satin of textile soft-

enereprem rather technical infomationinanintereetingam
nadilvunieretandabls way. It states thattheyars dialkyl quater-
naryannoniuussltsinanalcoholandnter solution,tbsleohol
dissolvingthe sultandtbeeaterinslnirgdispereionintherinse
eater. It explains the ionic nature of these salts in solution all
share hoethis emseethe attraction ofthe softensrtothe fah'ic.
simetheeoftenerfosmacoatingeflnbricatingnteflslontheeu-
facecfeschfibermdstrandofyarn,andeinceithelpetoretsinan
optima meat of mistu'e, it contributes greatly to the extra];
softhandefthefabrie.meunitintutilscbnistl7onquatemary
Weapmnnecmldbemdemeintmstimmnesningfulte
thestudentsbyudngthiearticlsasessiaedresdimmterial.

109. lbitlock,llaryc. "meensmertandudforShutm, W

Econunics, nv, lo. 10 (vacuum, 1953). 727-3.
Poutypesofsheetingarecoveredbythisstandardadoptedw

them. Inadditiontespecifyingtbephysisalpopertissofthe
yarnsandfabric, type of yarn,yarncount, weight,andnininm
breeldngstmgth, thestandardimlude s-aximalloeublesbrinhge
smtheratioofeetanddrybreakingstrength. “memorable
submagehasbeenepecifiedsinoethe efficisneyofasheetasa
bed covering dependspartlyupontlnstnet'sfinallsmtham'idtb.
Aeonmcanusethestamhrdforestintimmequlityofsheete
at the tin of purchase, providing that the namfectm-er gives
adequate infomtion on the labels seeming the sheets. By eon-
primenymilablsinformtionviththetinthestwdarheen-
mcanleerninehatrespectstbnaterialinthesheetsny
Memeguet,orbeloeerthanthestsndsrd,andcanelse
lsemehatinfonntionmybelacking. Thiscouldbeabasiorefer-
eneefersunitencomussrmblsnsinregardtoheuseholdtenilee.

no. limet, 1.1:. W Horst Maw cv (mnfis). 81.,186.
sendstheheynoteof c tariffbattlsasitloekste
thesouthernteatilosills. Geneattentiontotlnfsctthatthe

Iamfscturing costs),emaremtberebyhslplesein thefaceoffleod

30

Ill. 'lhat About Japanese'fextiles andtheAsericsurabriesuim
Isrkete?" American Fabrics, no. 35 (Winter, 1955), 86-87.

Treats the question of Japanese textile imports from the point
of View of international imperatives, because the United States'
economic policy in Asia is so closely linked with its political
and unitary objectives. It considers the Japanese side of the p
problemsndoffers acne solutions. lnstudyingthesocialoblip
gation of world trade, this article would be very informative.

112. Why textiles ire South,“ 93, low! Q my Rem, 1m:

(February 12, 1951», 90-98.
ShowsthattlnsaincwseiffiewEnglsnd'stutiletroublee

newagos, sincepayinncrthernplantssvengesisteencentsen
hour sore than in the south. Northern workers also get bigger
fringe benefits, including vacations and paid holidays. It costs
such loss to operate a sill in the south, since power costs, heating
bills, and taxes sometime are lower in the south. Northern sills
bapethatthelnienwillacoeptpsyhcutessamansofcheckingthe
night to the south. Other causes of the crisis are thought to be the
sore efficientmchinexyinthe newersouthemmnsthhegenersl
declineinsaleswhichhashitthsentiretextileindustry. This
phaseofeerdouesticeconosdsproblessiewellillnstratedhm.

. lbytlsw, 6.6. and Staff of last-icon Viscose Corporation. urn. lsmfscm-e
oflabrice fronBlends ofPibers, " 3% ofthe 253;: mm,
11.111, No. 8 (Must, 1952). 556-583. pr

This interesting and scholarly paper considers the purpose an!
principles of blending 3 fiber characteristics in relation to blend-
ingzwariousblendingteehniquesg treevolstionofspdnningequip-
out and setbods to insure fiber control; the correlation of fiber

properties with fabric perfonance; and the problese and opportun-
ities in the field of textile engneering. in excellent refereme.

111.. “Wool loves South,a Emile World CV1 (W1956), 85-91. 181».
Aepecialreportonths growth ofwool processingintheSoutb

which analyses the cases and walmtes the effects of the trend. It
discusses the poems that were on the woolen manufacturers after
World War 11 an! their relationship to the decision of mam to build
new sills in the south. The disadvantages of the more, such as the
problem of unskilled labor, personal. habits, supplies, and technical
training are considered along with the advantages. Such an article
could be used to stipulate student interest in this situation.

115. 'Hoel's Battle with u» Synthetice,‘ o (my. 1952), 123-31, 155-53.
Analyses the latest revolution the textileindu rywbieb

challengesthe positionofwoolasaleadingfiber. Comparesthe
qualities and linitat ions of semi-synthetic and synthetic fibers
with those of wool, and points out advantages of fiber blends. It
considers the economic effects of this kind of competition in the
industry. Thiswouldsurelybesgoodarticlsteuseassreference
inastudyoftheeconosieps'oblmintln textile field.

 

Sectiosc-Wntalandnxteneienhllstim

m.m,c.a.'neve1ep-usinledersrsztilefestin,' m
xv,so.1(1951.).
Aninterestimarticlewhiehnsthetertefatalkgisenst
tbflmtingonhtmnryfilfih. Itcxplainsthewu'kanl
inflnenceofthen.3. Testingconpenyanddeecribes the scientific
imtmnentsandpocednresforevalnatirgmchpropertissasfln-
nabilityandpillingoffabrics; snagnsistungrun ammo
andpropertioningofhoeiernandsearnsistsnceefpileflec
coverings. Hoeldbeagoodreferenceforaunitcntheanalysisand
testingoftettflesinsnadvancedcourse.

117 W3.fllsl- “hamlet-r7 Fabrics." W E
9 .
ibisbnllstincemidersnetonlytlnpattern, color,“

furniture type which should enter into the selection of upholstery
fabrics, but it also takes into consideration the fiber cartont u
type of weave. The last two factors are developed in detail, as!
each of the several varieties are described and evaluated for
specific end-uses based on inherent properties of beauty and service-

ability. Awlsssonontheprinciplesofpurcmmhcsseholdtu-
tileeconldssethisbullstintogoodadvantegc.

.m, on. “Cotton Statistics for Texas, 1957-51..“ W

tion etin, Ply}.
A ;% which not only gives statistical data pertaining to
theacreage,yield, prodazctien,ampriceofcottoninrens,bnt

also imlndesdotmpsandcluxtswhichslww yaphicallythst
althoughscresgehesdecldned,yieldshavetendedtorise. It
points out that irrigation and increased use of fertiliser have
beeninportantfactorsinthess changes. fhiscouldbeusedascn
ennpleofthetypeofreeearohthatisbeingcarriedeninngud
totheeconc-iestatusofthecottonimhxstry.

119. W,n.a. 'flowtolahcurtainsamnrsperiee,'M

sous fictggt Ea (September, 1955),“.
bulletinie devoted“. to a discussion of the fat-in

ssedforcm-tainsanddraperiee. Itcollsimrstheadvantagesad
disadvantageeofsllthenatunlandsynthetiefibere,tbcseof
satellieyu-ns,andtreatedliningnsteriale. Gealdwellbeosedto
deacutratethefaet that fiber properties antmd—cseasfcas
hmseholdtertilssaremenzed.

12. Davis, 8.P., Gabbsrd, LoP.,sndWootsn, 1.3.1arhtingi'uasloelens
QulityBuis,‘ . Steiot ”(1955).
mascot}: . yobetflpreperaton woolfa'the
local-arhetbythegxwersthesdvantageeofsellimmagrsded
or quality basis: and the comparative [rises received for graded
among-addwoolefednilerqnslity. Showsthatresesrchisbedng
carriedcneveninthedietzdhutienaspectofthsimnstry.

31

 
   

33

mnetcher 3.1.sndlenes,l.'. Webmeiodertsincottn,
nLaxdlaycnlonnlabriesDoriuVarimscleaninmPreeeing

O

1916).?!»-

l[hissircnlarwolnldbeagocderasplefoe-tenet!»studentsef
areeearehrepertwhishiuludeseninterestimaecmdfthe
nobles, scone. eater-ials, procedures, resulte,andnfereneesthat
mimolndinmchminnstigstiomfhemarygevethseffect
eflaundsringgthechanges resulting fradrycleanimgthereeults
efwetcleaniou cosparativs effectecfelsaMngpa-ecsdm-ee; effect
ofteneienduringpressingsthheereepandresterabdlitysffebrics.
hefspesialinterestwhenoesceneiderethatthisstuQeas-de

 

 

Household (nothing
M (11m 1956). 126 ”-
Lsagnidstotestilssssearehwcrbresndctherseomernedwith

selected investigations of mality and serviceability of Miles
hve been brought togetherinthis publication. Them '
specificatiensandteetedsu'viceabilityofsschiteuesblamestin.
sheetimtoweling,teblslflnens,sndofllolsteryfahrics
sreorgenisedintcreference fmandeupplsnntsdwithecertensive
relatedbihliepaptnrsaldsgitsuseinatertilsseeersepectieal.

123. Iilnre,lsis,ehairau. Mmdhcnassinhrtiluanddlothiu
inthellezthnfeereetthedradnatelsvel," ill“-
all 3. l ,. a» a. all“; sermon
{UK-l- "9
*.. codttse repertsentheeorveyefinstitctiens offering
teworkinclommuadtertilseeouldbevemablsaeabaeis
discuscicninanedveneedonderg-adaatetailescouree. They
wooldnotenlygiveaneverviswoftheeenterssndls-oblneof
tertilsreeeanh,bctaidxtsl.eeencccrsgeseucftheetadentste
pinteucdoeteecrkinthefisld.

as. key, J4. “Preparing loci for lea-Inst," Ln;
Gives recs-mutual on the we

rangingfronthebeeedimprcgraasndtheneage-ntefthefleeh,

 

  

farrecevedfruthetctileclassrou,the inforaatiminthis
hilatingivess-einedghtastethetypeofreeearehbedmdue
sewselfibereandtheirneparatienfn-Wintcyarss.

us. rises, Id. and'er-n, 0.1.. 'cervieeabilityofflurtslede fru
Of T” VMI, 30m, and 8... or M,” x - $41.41;.--”
. 1 -o 7"-'-'..-'s (Me 1955: 22 PP.

: essence—talus to add to the recent We:
effect of varietal, regionl, all! euscnsl differences en the searing

    

 
 

33

quality of men's white broadcloth shirts. The life of the cotton
was traced from the seed through the growth of the fiber, the sum-
facture of the yarn and fabric, and the life of the shirts. The
study showed high correlation between loss of breaking strength and
chemical degradation of the cellulose, but only little relation be—
tween loss of strength and visible signs of wear. Any unit on the
enalpis and testing of textiles could use this report to good ad-
vantage as illustrative and reference material.

126. WI. LB. ‘1‘ Bailey, 'eRe WONG! 0: ”CW1 “tun WM,“

ornia ntal Station etin Bulletin (April,l95t .

A study node to determine the range of situations in which
mchine cotton harvesting is economically feasible. The economic
advantage or disadvantage of machine picking was found by adding to-
gether the costs of picking, the value of grade loss, and value of
field waste, an! then comparing the sun with the cost of ham huh
vesting. Would be of interest in a consideration of cone of the
economic probl-Is of the textile industry.

12']. Kmmghu D.‘f., Riohnoml, 1'.R., and Elliott, 1.0. "Performance of Gotten

Varieties in Texas," fe§ % 2% station Bulletin £188 (1951.).
This bulletin gives ormt on on the out n ty sting

pogran in Texas, which is designed to inform growers of the per-
fm-mnce of new varieties and strains and to ompare such twee with
the standard varieties in use. field in pourds of lint cotton per
core was given highest priority in selecting the varieties to be
recmnied. Other characteristics such as adaptation to prevalefl
harvesting practices, fiber properties, disease resistame, and
earliness of maturity were also considend in making the recommend-
ations. This might be a good reference to use in giving textile
students some notion of the type of research being carried on in
regard to fiber qualities.

128. leer, Am. "When You Work with n and Acetate,” W
at (October, 1953 , 16 pp.

though it was designed primarily to help those who wish to
construct acetate or rayon garments, nest of the principles dis-
cucsedinthis bulletincansleobeusedtogoodadvantagebyper-
sons who purchase their clothes reach-made and who want to hmw how
to by wisely and how to care for their clothes so that they will
wear well. It includes information on tin differemes in processing
and roped-ties of rayon and acetate; the tests for distinguishing
between the two when the label is not informtive; and the recon-salsa
techniques for cutting, marking, sewing, and pressing of these fabrics
when used in gar-ant construction.

129. m AsAe 30‘” sni W." “ "‘
(Jamal-y, 1951. .

Anarrangeuntinchartfcrnoffactssboutellthe available
laundryeoapsandeyndetseothetconparieonscanreadilybeaedest
first sight. The facts incbxde trade name and sanufaoturcr, plvsicel
fern, type of product, principle chemical builder, sudsing action,
and recs-sended use. This chart also appeared in the January, 195A
issueofrorecast foraochenMsteendwculdbe helpfulferetudente.

 

3h

l”.lylen, I. 'Inew Your Ian-lode Fibers, " '2
(October, 1956).

A concise and informtive leaflet written in poplar style to
givehc-naherepertineutfactsonthepropertieeandcareef“
Mm“, “1'11”. ”1, mm W. ”'10“, arm, m,“
Vicara. louldbeahamkvreferencefcrtutilestadentstohavein
their inlividual possession.

 

131. M, Ian 'Iving Ila-en's suite and Gents,u 1‘. “mi, ”"1”. an-
1-1. -1101 ‘1.-_-- “Hm; :5... -{
.1 m"”"”” “Pm!" w and" touchipbetwesnconsm

undead textilereeearch,becauseitnotonlyanalyeeswhatthe
hue:- coneiders before spendinghie co-pany's may, but italsc
shewstheeffeetofconeunerreeponeestoemofferingeathe
naneofcontrollingquelityoffabricsinrsadybto-eeargtheeffeet
effabricfinishentheprioeofagammgandthsdiffezenceein
these-atypeof-nhandieeatvariouspricelsvele. Italeoahsws

E
5
1i
3

 

132.1530, 13.9. "Gotten Variety rest,"
(N.19%)e
pertstheprcoedareandcontrolsueedthreugheuttheruae
cottonvsrietytestingz n-lieestbdataintsbularferagand
evaluatestheperfor-ncecftlnnetprohctivevarietieeefcottee.
hehniealincontentamletyls,butiteouldhveralusss
erefereneeinanedvancedtextiles course.

”So ”a, I., M, 3., m, 3e, m M Jo t LAW“. ." A. .32.
C; . .- J. ° ,i-£.‘.i.,~...n ‘AW " 6371.1-
77"; m. - ‘ '"

4-, ofthe topicschcsenbyths speakereaddieceeeieaaeaps
nuldbeofpertieularinteresttoanadvamedtextilsetudem. M
maple: flhatDosetheOenee-rlantfl 'Do‘reatileeandcamte
Liveuptoi'heirClai-fl and I't‘hantrilmticuecfneeearchin
Solving the Coaster Probl-e and Practing satisfaction in Cletung
and Textiles}. The copies of the speeches and the record of the
discussims are smallest source saterial for infer-tics on tb
relationship between «new demand and textile research.

labilebsreen‘ l.sndflard,0. mmmmm-W

permeationeeoneemingcertainfibereand
mum-.mummmvmm thereaderwithachartn—riaim
theeffestofvariousehenicaleonfibereandonQes,thebooklet
gives practisalssthedsfcrreaovingsuchcc-cnstainsasbloed,
egg, fruit, grease, ice creel, ink, iroorust, fingernail
wildu, paintand varnish, perspiration, ache-up, and tannin. a
uitentdileeheeistrywouldfindthisaprectiealhelp.

35

13!. Roberson, Opal. Ilse Finishes for fabrics,"
(February, 1952), ll pp.
his booklet offsrs the sense-er practical interaction on
the finishes which give fabrics the qualities of diasnsional
stability, eolorfastnees, crease resistance , pennant criensss
and each also then wttcr repellent, waterproof, and
insect resistant, and aald and eildsw resistant. It
explains each of those finishing processes, discusses the advan-
tages, endumesawplesefinfosntivelabelsengamtsand
fabricswhichthecomussreanusetchelpidentifyeuchfinishee.
Il'hevalueefsushabcoklstinatextilsscourseisobvinus.

136.1obsreu,0.andnollen,l.'lewhbriss-llocwlearwithacedcsre'
-_ .h , a . (larch, 1955).!!pp.
. a scnsof the cc-cnandindi-
visual properties of synthetic fibers, clareetuistics of good
labsle,inertantdry-elssningfacts,andrecc-endedh~leum
nthodeastechoiceefsachim-washorlund-wash,csditioningcf
washwater,eseefbleach,andthesolviagefsecheniquepeble-
aeheat-eetwrinkleesmpilling.

137. “Science Fiber Chart," W11, Is. 3.
i coups-shensive c ving tee infer-tics en ”lea,
Orlcn, Dynl, and Acrilan fibers. The facts include type of fiber,

distinguishing characteristics, producers, longitudinal and cross—
seetional phetonicrographe, eiorcsccpic appearance, method of
promotion, length and diameter, color and lustre, specific
gravity, standard regain, tenacity, elongation, resistance to all
recovery fro. wrinkling, thy and burning claraeterietics
inability, applicabls classes of dyestuffs, absorbency, effect :5
sunlight, effect of heat resistance to acids, effect of organic
solvents, effect of e, and W properties. could
berefitablyueedaearcadyrefereneeinauniteasonsuern'sb-
luv comes-aim textile goods.

338. "scienceribore- Mammal," W
m,h.ll,l6pp. ‘
lnclndesaehcrthistorycfthirtysyntheticfiberswhiehare
either-adeecuerciallyorarestillintheaperi-ntalstsgeand
describes the aethcds of production, outstanding properties,“

usesofeach. Wouldbeagcsdsoureeoftechniealiafu-
saticnforteatileclassroonuse.

 

  

m. m. He?" J”., Dex-es, mm, He’s '7!!! W a W
harvested Gottcn,' - 1;. - iii“, 1‘. ion et . 230950).
Astudywhich wasc ... .. ofdiff~
crest kinds of foreign setter removed in the extracting, cleaning,
ginning, and spinning of cotton mu had been seehanically stripped
and-echanically picked at earn, aid-seam, and late dates. It
points cutsneefthsecstiqertantproble-sconfrontingthecotten
farner and the ginner, since acre trash or foreign latter is collected
with the cotton by the nechanieal stripper than by the sechanical
fisher. lculd have enlylidtedvalne inthe averagetextile coin-so.

  

11.0. “Soaps and Synthetic Detergents," ue Photo on Service s
w (1951), 12 Ppa
Discusses the nature, typos, and cleansing action of deter-
gents) the problems of hard water, rinsing, and bleaching) and
gives pointers on the use of detergents in relation to automatic
washing machines. This booklet would be good to use in conjunction
with the unit in textile chemistry on soaps and detergents.

1111. Stan, Page Ind Samar Lena "Know Your Fabric “8110.," m. mu“
. (nag-ch, 1956), 15 pp. . """'"""'"
This pub ation includes definitions of the technical finish~
ing terms used on labels, and it sunmarises in chart form the func-
tion, the desirable qualities, the care, the trade nan: and the
kind of fabric used as a foundation for each of the finishes in
cannon use today.

142. Stall, LC. and Sumr, L.E. "New Fibers and Fabrics,“ m Extension

W0 {E- (Mareh. 1956); 15 PP.

A brochure which contains concise and interesting mlanations
of technical terms and of the properties com to Nylon, Orlon,
Lorilan, Dyncl, and Dacron; a graphic analysis of such fiber facts
as general characteristics, special properties, type end-uses, and
care required; and a discussion of developments and rovemsnts
still in the research stages.

we Stan. M. and Sumner. L-E- “Nylon." WM!
#322 (195A). 12 pp-

Considers the steps in the making of Nylon, its characteristics,
its recommended end-uses, its position in the field of textile
research, and the techniques involved in its proper care. This
laoflet is very easy to understand due to the limited number or
careful use of technical tonne.

m. M F. zlfi)mr' L.E. “Rayon.“ 0 Se 00
ha 95 .
Simple presentation of such information as the mamfacturing
recesses, forms, uses, characteristics, finishes, labeling rqus,
- and laundering techniques of rayon. Could be a practical help in
the textile classroom on either secondary or college level.

1A5. Stout Evelyn. I'.‘.’oheets and Pillowcases,“ WW
(Ma 19593 16 PP-
The selection, use, and care of these household textile items

is here discussed in an interesting and practical way. Although it
was written primarily for homemakers, the information on available
varieties, on standardization, on the significance of technical
labeling terms, and on the comparative values of different fibers
for use in sheeting, has value in helping textile students see the
importance of considering end-use in the evaluation of textile goods.
Any unit which includes conmr problems in household textile items
would find practical informtion in this bulletin.

37

11.6. lard, J.l., lesslsr, 1.3., and Paulson, IJ. m characteristdss
andapiming Performance of beheaded]; Stripped Cotton en the

M Phi-ll... -'-'L.‘ .' . ‘ _ j- .1 t ‘1' (1953)e
' properties all

spiming perfornnse of machine-stripped cottons of the High Plains,
shicharenctedforfinefibersandrelativelylostensilestrenghh.
It idicates the importame of fiber mi spinning tests in connection
with the nrchandisim of High Plains cotton since such tests dis-
cleeethebestsaytoutilise the fibertogivo custoser satisfaction.

11.7. silliness, Ineille. I'soaps and Other Detergents,'l m“... h
(W, 191.9)

see the different kinds” of detergents and camera the
degreeefalkalinityineach. Explainsthenthodsoftestingte
determine the degree of alhlinity. Points out so- of the dis-
advantages of detergents andthe precautions to be Marianne“
inautuatis ushers. misbullstinoouldsellbeusedincamsotisu
siththe unit ontextile obseietryshieh considers soaps andsyndets.

1M.Iillisuon,heille.'seapaandlaterhftessrs,'mm
(3eptednr, 1952), 8 pp.
stereaeonsforchmsirgsoapforlnderingandeospares
th-sithreasmsforusingdstergents. hplainsthealkalins
action of soapy eater, the cleansing action of soap, the differences
insoaps,theoharaoteristissofhu-dandsoftsater,andsayste
seftsn water by using either precipitating or non-precipitating
softenersiandeaystopeeventorr-ovesoapeurd. Agoodsouros

  

 

infomtionentbenatureanduseoftbssetypesef
launderingdetergents.

Section n - Industrial Publications

1&9. am. new fork: Ohsnstrand corporation
A promotional brochure with edmtimal value. It discusses
the nature, propsrties, and end-uses of Acrilan, and includes a
simple flow—chart which describes all the steps in the mnufacturing
[recess of this acrylic fiber by Chanstraud Corporation.

150. . Providence, Rhode Island: Scott Testers Incorporated
catalog was published for the purpose of aiding the asun-

facturer or the laboratory in selecting the proper testing instru-
snnts for making physical tests of textiles. It illustrates and
describes new of the nodels which are used for tensile strength,
elongation, lusteresis, fatigue, twist, plasticity, flexing, aui
bursting strength tests. It would be a helpful reference for a
classroom discussion on tesiim instruments when as! where such in-
strumntswouldnotbeavailablstoseeortouse.

151. the H . lilnington, Delaware: DuPont Coupon

A edbinonthlybytheExteneionDivisionofth
3.1. Most do Honours Compaq which mounts the cmtributions of
chesdcal research to the field of Home Economics. Of particular
interest to textile specialists are its reports on synthetic fibers,
new dyeing and finishing methods, and similar typos of textile
research. It would no doubt be very interesting to the students if
some oftheee issuu couldbe xeadincomectionwitheonsofthe
units in textile chorustry.

152. W. Wilmington, Delaware: 3.1. DuPont de honours On.
a ser es of brochures on the synthetic fibers by DuPont

would be good source material for classroom use in textile courses
on either the secondary or college level. It discusses the nature;
history) namfacturing, dyeing, and finishing processes; properties;
care required; recommnded sowing techniquesinand end-uses of

tore

Acetate, Nylon, Orion, and Dacron in a very sting way.
153. s he 1' st -Combed Get on "Made to Behave! New York: Bates
A ographed, pronot t och Eves information on

 

the sanufacturirg and finishing processes of Bates Disc iplined Fabric
from fiber choice to finished product. It sumarises the properties
which are guaranteed by the fiber-deep treatment. It would give

so- specific informticn concerning finishes which are not ordin-
arin found in the average textile textbook.

15k. . Chicago: Atlas nostric Devices

catalog presents a complete description of the Pads—meter,
and explains the principles which govern its use in textile research.
The Neathr-(hster and WP. instraeents for determining

hrsbility and perfonance of fabrics are also described and discussed.
38

39

1.”. Nu! . » ,.. _‘ sw.lew!orkz men-amen...
‘sens Lglasyarnsaseellasinfcrca-
tienentheirendpremetusesadrecmendedfsbrica
ing,anddyeingteehniqees. Altheaghthiseem‘elieeireotedu-i-
nrilytodirectusers oftheyarns— weavers, breidere, butters-
pevidingthenwithagreaterwaldngknewledge,itwouldalsebe
eeefoltehoaeeconedceeduata'sendtouserseftertileprednete
“factoredfrgtiberglasyarm. Itnstenlyhasvelnsblecem

mmnfi. Wanner-uni. ”mum.
isnelaswellasprmtimelboekletgixingtecmiesl

inforsetienonthesenfacturingp'eeesses, properties, ended-uses
efaayon, Acetateinlylon, Orion,andneereninacaythetweuldbe
classes.

  

 
 

.Danville Virginia: Ben liver mils.

- - . ,besidee giving facts about the cen-
scientific status of the DanRiver hills, explains the
basiestepsinfahricsanufaetureandinslndesei-plifiedshetehes
ef the varieus nehines used throughout the entire masses.

1». W. Iii-ington,belacares 3.1. dePent de levers (1952) 32 pp.
attractive fornt enhances the interesting content of this

booklet which resents the historical, economic, technological, all

aspen-misspectsofthesyntheticfibersimtry. ltceuldbe
efdefinite suctionelvalneinawtentile course.

1”. .-' ... A1 ' ALLA. 43'”-.. ‘3‘ ‘M__' - 1 514-543 '4; ~3-
‘ ' LWL‘IFAW ' “1W - i- a . . m": . lbsnurs
hure iceProchrctlnfornationSectionofmront

fiberechiohgivesasispleehronologicalaccountofthehistoryef
syntheticfibersfroatheworkofChsrdomtithethestahs
eftheentireindustryinl‘)”.

160. 11-. 1*..1 hill}: 1.4.1,: ’. 101..-...11' J the 'H I ,é't.._l..:r a: 2;:
(flat; . if“ , = ' f.”- g a. . "'13;- "in
""3 leaflet, practing Irina-Shed fabrics by Bah River,
clearly illustrates the primiples involved in resin finishes for
fibers, showing the desirable effects of heat-set resin poly-r-
isatien en the naturally porous, crease-mptible eellclosie fibers.
Couldwellbeineludedintbillustraiieesaterialforawtctile

 
 

, asaninforsaloutlineforthecse
at college graduates interested in general information about the
deericsn Viscose Corporation. It discusses the purpose, organi-
sation, and status of the corporation; tells the story of rayon,
acetate, and cellophane production; and reports the current research
being carried on in its laboratories . Effective use of excellent
phatogrephs throughout the booklet lake it interesting and attrac-
tive. auoha publication-“ht encourage students tocerkinthe
textile field after graduation fro. college.

[.0

162. m; in Wool rabfice. lee fork: The Wool home.

As tw chanalyeesthetwotypesofshrinkage-
relmtion and felting - and explains the best known comreial
processes for reducing felting shrinlmge by chlorination, resin
treatmnts, and treatments with synthetic latexee.A Ageod source
of such fundamental information in any classreoa consideration of
the nature, properties, and care of wool fabrics.

163. gm. As- etc of C: t So -4; So Resist . e and Restorati:'__1,;
: .. A paper presents by “.3. So} nberger a the
V pet Cleaners Institute on February 11., 1956.

Analyzes the relationship between fiber surface characteristics
and the nechanisn of carpet soiling by contact and by retention. It
are...» types of soil retardant finishes, their advantages ani
disadvantages, and the recomerxled techniques for proper application.
It reports on a study nude to determine the influence of rayon
carpet construction on location cleaning and texture restoration, and
concludes with a description of the rscomended techrriques for such
restoration of texture after cleaning. Although it is technical in
natureitissinpleandinterestinginstyle,andcouldbeofe~
value in a textile comes.

16A. The h 'Uster'. Switserlsndr Zellceger Ltd. (Deeenber,l95h) 20pp.
explains a new means for analysing irregularityin
fibers and yarns. It gives a short description of the meter"
spectrograph and some examples of application of its use for
ical investigations. It has a very technical approach to the subject,
but it would be a good example of ems of the scientific instruments
and procedures being used in textile research in other countries.

165. '1‘ -e_ ; of "Wash and Wear“ Sn ,. w Fab Lcsco “FLA; 1; .. ml
0 .estr Fiber or "010.31" A - c ' 'Bl‘. i'fl'. . “In .; ' :. gm
‘6 ’ ” p 955 e

A report which gives technical information and recommrcled

procedures for mixing men's suits, primarily from fabrics containing
substantial quantities of Dacron and Orion. It includes such steps

as designing, cutting, sewing, trimings and accessories, washing,
alterations, and pressing. This information would be practical for
instructors in textile and clothing construction courses where the
interest in the use of synthetic fabrics by students is beconing nere
semen.

166. st et . Hobeken, How Jersey! 0.8. Testing Company
A non etin which enplusises the technical aspects in the
analysis and testing of textiles, and which reviews the progress
being made in textile research. Would be a valuable periodical to
use in commotion with an advanced course in textiles.

167- WW Reborn-n. nu... ma. man. co» 31+ p.

Lists the important tests for textile merchandise, with descrip-
tions of test methods and analysis of test results. Standards uni sin-
ima specifications were available are given. A ready reference for
a class concerted with textile research cathode.

Al

168. n - Basic Materials for In . Wilmington: DuPont Company
'1' s tshows varousproblemsinindustry have been

solved effectively and economically using the DuPont synthetic fibers.
After giving the relatively cannon properties of such fibers as
Acetate, Viscose, Cordura (high-tenacity rayon), Nylon, Orlon, Moran,
and Teflon, the special properties of each are explained to show their
potentialities for use in such things as irrlustrial belting) filtra-
tion; time; rope and netting; coated fabrics for many protective cov-
erings and tarpaulin applications; industrial and fire hose) industrial
felts 3 electrical insulation” and many other industrial end-uses.
Would be a handy reference to have in connection with a unit on the
economic aspects of the textile industry.

169. Es Histogz of Cotton Textiles. Textile Information Service: National
otton Counc of America. .

A comprehensive picture-story of America's pioneer industry
from its beginnings to the present day. Inclndes a graphic account
of the contributions ands to the industry by such can as Samsl
Slater, Francis Cabot Lowell, llichael Schsnok, Joel Battle, Willis:
llowry, Jams Thorpe, William Gregg, and James Northrop. Although it
see written for Junior high school level, sons of the information in
it would be interesting to use in textile classes on higher levels.

170. nsanto Wrinkle Rscove Tester. Technical Service Bulletin HBO-1.5.1,
l‘ e and Paper Resins Department: lonsanto Chemical Company.

This bulletin explains the principles involved in the construc-
tion of the Honsanto Wrinkle recovery Tester, and it describes the
test conditions, specimens, and procedures to be followed in the use
of this imtrunent. Evaluation of test data is explained and echel-
atis diagrams and photomphs of the instrument itself sake the
technical explanation easily understandable.

171- W. New fork: Owens-Coming fibergles Corporation.
A folder which includes not only a schematic drawing of the
Coronising Operation for finishing Fiberglas fabrics, showing the
basic operations performed, but it also explains the development of
the process itself and evaluates the properties it gives to the fabric.
Would be a valuable piece of illustrative material for use in a tex-
tile course on any level.

ble Finishes for Ra n. A paper presented by
h Seminar ils Institute Faculties on
June is, 1956.

Includes definitions of various finishes} describes the appli-
cation and foundation of Avsoset for durable shrinkage control; dis-
cusses the use sf additives to achieve special effects; analyses the
chemical, mechanical, and physical modifications which are necessary
to assure minimum care properties; and reviewe the advantages to be
gained Mil the use of Avcoset formulation. These advantages
include stabilisation, chlorine resistance, hard, strength retention,
non-fibrillition, reduction of seam fraying, and case of laundering.
Although it is technical in content and style, this paper would be a
good source of infcmtion on scan of the less well known finishes.

172.

  

#2

173. 5 SEEQL‘. Course on Hog. New York: American Wool Council, Inc. 19”
Sta e reasons for Wool labeling Act-3 analyze. the phyeioel
and chemical properties of the wool fiber; surveys the historic
and geographic aspects of wool production; and givee melanoma-v
tiona on the cleaning and care of woolen tabrice. lould be a good
basic reference for my unit coneidoring the econolio eepecte of
the wool industry.

171.. lfltter. New Iork: The Wool Bureau
A folder publiehed periodically by the Education Department.
of the Wool Bureau which includes pertinent wool information, ee-
pecially from the economu, ecientixic, end fashion areas, along
with implications for classroom use in textile course- on my level.

175. Woolfacte gar Educators. low York: The Wool Bumu
A periodic report of the problem and progreee in the wool
industry designed for use in textile education and research. It
would be a helpful reference for teachers who have not the time
nor the opportunity to read come of the sore technical publication-
vhich carry the can general type of information.

TEXTILE CHEESTRI

W W A 33th '3
Alham- aibctitution Raw eateriale
oee b10,11,13,21. '
Alkenee Addition Dyeetuffl
eee a—6,10,11,13.19,21. B—27,68,76,106,107 c432. $152,155
Albenee Addition Polymerization Orion, Dynol, Acrilan
.ee 1.40.1149 '3-27,u,46,62,102 0.137.133.1m o—u9,152,156,15a,159,158
Alcohole Oxidation Bleaching or Cellulose ‘
eee H,1o,n,12,13,21. B—68,80 0.134.140
Aldemdeo Aldol Comeneation I Ruins
eee A-lO,11,13,21. 3-80.98
Acids «- Amide: Condensation Polymerization Nylon end Dacron
m A-10,u.13,19,21. “5.57.62 o-i37.138,u.2.u3 $152,156.158.1s9.163
Organic Salte Saponification Soaps end beta-go nte

eee A—lO,ll,12,13,21. B—SL,68,71,95,98,108 $129,131.,lh0,ll.7,ll.8
Eetere - Anhydridee Aoetylation of Cellulose Cellulose Acetate, Rayon
eee A-lo,ll,12,l3,l9,21. 327 0.11.1. D—lSZ,l56,lSB,l§9,l68

Amines Qlletermry salt formation Softens“ - Finishes
eee A-10,JJ.,13,?A 3-95.108
Carbohydrates Acidic Hydrolysis Hydrooellnloce
m L-lo,ll,12,13.20,?l. 3-71 c-u7,ue ‘
Carbohydretee Action or Alkali Mercerication

eee A-10,u,12,13,20,24 3-71 6447.148

b leeic
I. utoithodeflpplicat
l. Bireotdyeinc

f-

1. Definition-Punk

.Applieetiu to textilee
Gelluloeie Polyeetere
l. celluloee Acetate (Acetate)
I Prep-retina
b Propertiee
e Duo
2. Oelluloee Xenthete (Vieeoee)
e Preparetien
1: Proportion
e Beee

3. Synthetic Poke-tee- . Dem
U.

Poly-crustal:

1. Addition Poly-urination - Alkaones
A. Definition
Be 1"”.
1. Sisple polymerisation

2. Copelanerisation
3. Heteropolynerisation

I

1. Orion

2e sum

3e Acrilen

II. Condensation Polymrisetion
A. Definition
Be ”Pl

1. Polyenido

2e WW

I
1e Hylon
2e Dacron

C.

C.

Bleschin;
Io Blemhing ml!“
Actual

A.
l. leture «- laseent oxygen
2e th
3. Potential - lbpeohloroue ecid
l. lsture
2e Function
C. Propel-ed blesch liquor
1. Composition
2e mm m
3. Rate of bleaching
A. lstive cellulose
1. Chemical structure of pure cellulose
2. coloring setter mochted with iepurities
B. Processed cellulose
In at“
2. followed by best or elboli
m. Blushing sotion
A. Desireble effects if well controlled
1. Conversion of coloring matter into colorless substances
2. Removal of stains and general whitening
B. Ufleeireble effects if overbleechod
1. Conversion of eurfwe to mulluloee - decreseod durability
s) type; of mellulose
. W113 typ- - Pebling's rest
2. 0mm). typ- - Titration
b) Che-icalreeetims-eudnationoffunctiomlm
1. Alcohol to aldehyb to ecid
2. Chain splitting

k5

o) lioasurenent of encelluloee fomtion
1. Copper umber
2. Methylene Blue umber
3. Viscosity of (hpramninn solution
2. . llore readily searched by heat or yellowed by alkali
3. lore eolnbloinhotelkali-mterlayerdissolwed

Aldehydoe - Resins

1. Chemical Properties of Aldelvdes
A. Contain the carbonyl poop
B. Undergo addition reactions due to unsaturated
C. Can undergo self-addition reactions - sldol condensation
1. Basis of polymerization
2. Porn viscous, insoluble ruins
1!. Classification of Resins
A. “thermoplastic
1. Characteristics
a) long chain nolemles with no cross linking
b Softened by heat
c Dissolved by certain organic solvents

a Polyvinyl - Korosoal, Sana
b Acrylates - Plexiglas
c Polyethylene - Polythene, Teflon
Polyanides - Nylon
B. Thom-meetting
1. Characteristics
a; Cross linking takes place between chains
b harden when sufficient bat is applied
c) Infusible and insoluble after being set

s
a) Formaldehyde resins
1. Types - Um, Helanim, Phenol, Acetone
2. Uses -- Finishes for fabrics
b) Alkyd or Glyptal resins
l. Dibesic acids plus dihydric elool'sols
2. Uses - Paints, finnels, Varnish
c) Silicones
1. Composition
2. Uses

Amines

1. Definition - Fouls
II. Classification
As Aliphatic
1. Characteristics
2. Application to textile field - Softeners, Detergents
3. Chemical reactions
Be mm
1. Characteristics

2. Uses - dyestuffs

W

Io "mu“!
:1. Classification
A. Soaps c-Dtal salts of fattyscids
l. lentnl
a) Hard
b) Soft
2. Built
a} Cumsition
b Efficiency
B. syndets -notal salts of long-chainelcohole
1. Anionic
a) Alli). aryl sulfomtu
1. Preparation
2. lypes
3. Importance
b) Sodium alkyl mlfatee
1. Preparation

2. Cationic-seldonnsedineonpetitonwitheoep
3e WC
e) In”
1. Allql—phenolpethylemodb
2. Estersofpolyludriealoohols
b) Propenies

III lechanisn of Cleansing Action
A. Emlsification of fats and oils to facilitate renewal fru mrfecee
l. Iolecular structure of a detergent
a Oneendhighlypolar, ionic, waterhsoluble
b Oneendnon-polar, hydrocarbon-alike, oileoluble
2. Effectcnoilandwaternixtureofthisnolecularstmture
B. loweringofthesurfaoetensimofwater
1. Penetration
2. Emleification
3. Setting Power
1'. 3co- Formation
‘e :3 Cam ”1mm
1. Displacement of imolnble fatty acids fro: their salts
2. Importance of controlling pH in laumerhxg
B. In hard water
1. Fattyscids fern insoluble salts with Ca, lg, andreofwator
2. Symlets do not for: insoluble salts with these ions

47

mm: TECWI

1e Fibers
A. Determination of Quality - see a-zo 3-81.101. C-125,l32,l$?,ll.6
1. length «- see A-l,5,l6,18,21 348,31 D-16L,167
a Standards
1:; Iresting Instnmonts
c Testing Procedures
2. Strength «- see A-l,5 3-31.65 13-150
3. Fineness - see A-l,5 B—31,65
A. Ewennsse - see A-l,5 B—31,65
5. Cohesiweness - see Apl,5 8—65
6. Pennability- Dyeability - see Apl,’ '
B. Development of Quality - see A-l,5,15,l7,20,23, B-ZB,3l,65, 87g“
1. Research on fiber production B—lOl.,113 $118,120,
2. Research on fiber analysis C—121. 5 1%, 132,139,”
b- 2.135.166.13947347nm

II. Isms
A. Detersimtiononoality - sock-1,20 M31 6437.146 “54,167

1. Strength - see A4,},16,18,2l 3-58 3-150
a tandards

2. Twist - see A-l,5 D-lSO
3. Evemess - see A-l,5 $58,101.
to Mt - ”a ‘4',
5. Sise - number or Denier - see A-l,5
Sewability - see H
B. Development of Quality
1. Research on yer. manufacture
see A-l'l,2£h23 528,58,”th C-123 $162,161.
2. Research on yarn amlysis- .1“ .166

III Fabrics
A. Determination of Quality - see 5-1.3:5,8,16,l8,a,21 3-33 97
1. type of Construction (1-125 5913? 3467'”.
a) Woven
b; Knitted
c Felted
Bonded
2. Thread count '- I“ 5-1.5
a Standards
b resting instrumnte
c Testing Procedures
3. mum - see Apl,5 3—83
1.. Thickness - '0' 5-195 3-83

5e Stren
-eee A—l, 56t’6‘21 “3,95,98,10? C425 9-150
“Bursting '- 800 H. 64-25 9-150
7. Disensional Stability see MAJ, 3-8,“),1338407

1.8

1.9

80 Abnaion Real-Hum. . m A-l,’,6,21 B'83,%'97 9.1.16
9. Porosity - see An-S,21

10. Permability - see A-5,21

ll. Absorbency .. see A—l,5,21 3-8

12. Flambility «- see A-1,5 8-81 C-ll6

13. Drapability - see A-l,5,21

us Harri - 866 8-98

a. Development of Quality - see A-i,5,8,15,17.2o,23 3-87 96 (#123,125

1. Research on fabric manufacture D—l62,166,169,175
2. Research on fabric analysis (for mn-wowen see B-72,84,lO§)

He mam.
A. Determination of Quality - see A-1,16,.18,20,21 B-28,l.9,55 60,81,105
1. Colorfastness 04.37 muamnéninmz
a) to light - see A-6 B—27,95,% D-lSl.
1e SW -

2. Testing Instruments
3. Testing Procedures
b) tolaundering-eceA-l. 13-151.
c) to cracking - see H
d; to perspiration ~ see A-A
e toehlorine bleaches-seeA-A
2. Crease resistance and wrinkls recovery - see A-l,5 34.0.51,98
3. Water repellancy - see A-l,5 3-50 D-lSl. 13-170
B. Develoxuaent of Quality
'30 A"1-1531-5317923 3‘35,” [69.50351955960ps7pl05 H23
$153,160,162 6,169,171.172,l75

mum moms

1. Factors affecting foreign trade
A. Social obligation of world trade
’00 bls'l',” M,W,B7.%.99 M73
3. Differences in production costs - see A-l7,18 .
1. Labor -- see B-66,67,110
2. Raw materials - see 347,110
3. Hodern equipment in rmntly inhetrialised countries
ea- $57.66.?!
C. Lowering of tariffs regulating import of Japanese textiles
see s-ao,31.,a2, 53,67,9u,101,no,111
D. Import and export trends in other countries
1. England - see A-l? B—66,77, D-173
2. India «- see 3-77
3- 3831*: '- 0“ 3-57
‘e Japan 'I' m B-N,3k,l.2,53,67,9h,101,110,m

11. Factors affecting domestic economic status
A. Competition between natural and synthetic fiber illiustries
1. Broduotion costs
ee- A-17.2°.23 590.92.11.15 G-DBJZOMM
2. Production risks
see A-17,20,23, 849,114,115, C—llS,lZO,lZ6,139 D-l'n.
B. Regioml differences
1. Labor costs - Minimum wage laws-
“. B-fig.3%&.9t.112

2. Cost ofli
see 3-112
3e Work 103d.
see B-36,112

C. Production efficiency
1. locationofsillsinrelationtorawuterialseouroes
m #13 H2p79a90.93,9l..100.112.11t
2. Specialisation
99' wsflswsmswemem
3. “damnation efmthods and saterisls
39‘ “’17 3.36357 377.79,”,93p1001107
D. Consumer trends
1. Changing to more casual way of life
.00 B-fi,“.36,92,1m.112
2. Here light-weight, year-round mute- air conditioning
see B-hl,86,9 92,8?
B. Coupetition versus Mergers within the textile industry
1. Specific sills- Natural fibers ‘ *
see 1-20.23 3-30.87.91.93.9l..100,11h $121,139 $157,171.
2. Specific sills - Synthetic fibers
see 1-3 3-87.90sgle9‘s993100fl-07 H61

50

WWO!

1. Items to be considered
A. Household Textiles - see A-9
1. Curtains and Drapery fabrics
see #25 3-3.“ 52: 75:39 “1190122
2. Table linens and toweling
see A-25 84.3.82, C-122
3. Bedding
see Av-‘I,25 “3,109 0422.115
he “We?!
see 11.11.22 13—37 C-117,122
5. Floor coverings
m A—25 3-106 D463
B. Garments - see 1-9
1. flannfactumd
89° B-S9,70,78,83 (3-128 3—155
2. Constructed at ha.
see B—38,7A,78,83 cam D-l65

II. Aspectstobeconsideredfcreachiten
A. Functional standards
1. Intelligent use of informative labels
see 6.15:25 B-29,l.3,55,56,60,6k,69 73,81,86,
B-88,89,109 c-122,12&,BS,iaé.1u.11.5
2. Quality differences based on "end use"
I“ “"15,1.6 m,&3,w,61,69,73,89,109
c-ll?.119.122.131.133.145
3. Relationshipbe‘tweencommrdenndaMtertilereeesrch
see “9.73.109 0431.133
‘e Textile 8W
ID. 556.73.31.83” C—MS 3-16?
B. Aesthetic standards
see on 3-38.61.” 6117,151
C. Care required
see A-9,l.6,26 3-59.6o,61,63,6a 69 ,75,7s,32,se
349.103.3136 Meal l#1639155

 

1"" ”1380-". a ‘y‘zfi'r . .. c
h kaai‘ul.‘; 4 “1-1.4ng in. ....\.rs_.

x" H uni-1"“
EAL-:‘T L111 "IQ“..L:I‘~:) A, .‘,l-}'z-H-|

 

 

 

 

   

mMMWRM\ii

«Ixmfiu’iw

 

MW