......vn... 94311.... ......II .

      

 

            

_§M~io simffifimshhw My
_ A

 

 

     

 

            

    
 

      

 

. . I... 3.411 1.31%....” 3.. ...
.‘IOP. .. 3“. %% ......Ixi «v
.. <- I I I I . . ‘ .,. 4., . II I
g .00.; .I.‘ I . 1 _ L(oer... .oI ..t Q..." Ila ‘1 Ln... IN; r .m...
r. 10‘ .. 0‘. b u b. . . .QI . .§ ‘Ivhflf’ ‘u, L. I. I7- .. O
....o .. -..,I I561: . I I? . ... . .v I}. 3. .l.‘ .. \0. Trial;
... .1. It... ... . O I..- .. ...)..._ ‘II Izikxfir. - .
w . 4 k . a» .— 3
... ......4 II .. ... ...... .. 1‘ I. .'\ .. .Y .
.. .. .3 Y. I. A... ‘I O: .03...“ I
..c ..... . .... 7.1;...‘It
,1: .. ...-... .. I. . ‘. I... .
...t.....! . I .

.... ... ...-...
.... IQ .- u
I... . r. . .
Q. l ..‘_ o
31.. ...I

It}.
. w;
.11, .

          

                      
                        

  

f. «...... 2 s
, ‘..‘.‘. I.

  

x
o.‘

 

fl 1
.\

  

..(1.._‘... a II. . u , I...
. .. C ‘11 . . 1..
... .

   

  

.I _ - ,.
EulltO: III

  

 

  

. L?
Q. ...I‘

a?! a

 

. ....
.!.§-.'. . .
I

                  

    

 

I . . 7. ...V'n. ,3... \. .‘fl ‘
.. «I. 1 I‘. .r p .9 CI. ...y rah.
. .... D .. rQQ .III. ‘D‘av
... Io.~v~... .If. .1'.||Uo- .3». ‘.
.‘I ... no.

  

             

     

        

  

      

 

 

 

            

  
 

                              
 

 

  
                

     
 

    

  

      

1.. . .I... . o I 0 d ... . 0‘
..’ 0,. u . ......II I. .1 a“;
I .I: ...... a ..4. ..I. I.I.§v ' .
I ~ I I 1 . a. 9 f”. 9! ... .0“ ......n..
,2. O . I.I ... . I IOI JI ..‘J . u .
..?n | . fl . . It a .2 w
. . . . .. I .c ... If... .
I . l .I .... .. ... . I a o. . I c.
. I .0 ... . I ‘4. ... ... n . . .. . I «II. r . p . .I.‘.. . .Q. QIOOv
. .. 1 o ...:c.vI.I.I.1.. I . 3 . . ‘.' C...
n . . .. .. I... II. I .... 3.3.3....n
. I I... ...? . .Ioi . 1 0.... ... ......
fl ... .... .. .
. v3.21- . I . I. I . I
I .. .
. . .. .. ”02,. ...L...
. . .... I.... III. I I .o I 4 . . .. . .....I.!.¢..II.CI .o
.. I . ...... .. . O 1. II o. . . . . . .I II .... I . I . ..
.. .. .... ....... . I:. .....II . .. . _ . .. I. ... .I....7:I.«. 7.
. . ... .... ... I .. . 1. o . . I . u. . II I- I. o. I . . I I p
. .. .. ‘1. . . . . .. .. . .. a . . . . I. ..
‘ 33¢ . . II . I . .o .. 00.1 I.
w. it .. . . . . ... . . . .. . . . . _
.... . . v. I a .. 3.0 I . . . I I . I I. .
“ . on I I. . . I . . In . V II I .I w. .
. I . . ,I. .2.. . . . . . . o . I . I . I I 1 I
0‘. . I I I u _. O 4 . .. I. . . ..(Itc ... . O: .. I I I. . .
I o. I .o I. ”I a v o a o . I. . u I o n ..
.I .. 4 u. I. . I . I. . . .. I . . I Q. .0 ... 4 I .
q. . . I .6. Z .I II .. . o . . .0. I I .. .. . ..
Ii . .. .. . .. . I . I . a I . . . . . I ... . . ..
. ... I t . .~. . . II. . . I. . o .
«I .. . .. 1 Q. . I I . .. .. .. v. V .I c. . . . . . I
. O. ..I ... D I a I I I . . I .. . . . . o I . . .
q . . . I ’ .f. . . I o a . . . I. I 2 . I
III , .I I -. ... . . .. ...... o. . ... ... I I . I .
“I . .. .l I o . . . ._ I q. I .0. . . . . . .2.. ... .. ... .o . . I
. I . . . I. I a. . o . . I. . I . II c . .I I I . .
”0 II . . c . I I I v . .. I. . .1 I I I s . .. u 0 ac. . . A
I . . . . ‘ . . . . o I . O .I .I I O. . c O . I . . I
d I .. I . . . o . . . I. . . 4t . ’I. ....o . . . . I. a .
I I . I o . . - ... . . o I . . I _ . I.
. I . . . . .... .. . I .o I .
n. . . . ..I _ . . I . . .0 I... . . I c I
. . a . . . 5‘ .. . II . . . . I GI
.. .. o I I . o I ...-o v I . ..I II . I I .. . I . I.
. I o o _ I. .. . I I . . . 0-. I .7 I . I .0 I I . . , . .1 . Isa ..I.. ...... \l ..l
I ... I I . .n . u . c . I . .. o O .. ~ . . . I .. 1 . . . . . f . . . i... 1. .lfi“.lv1
o . . v 5 ~ I . I . . I I . . . . . . . . I . .4 I on
a I I . . I I .. 2 . Io . ....o I I .. I ..I .. . . I.. .I . .. . . o. . . . II I.. . .... . . .Vo .
s I . . I 0 I I . . I .. I . . . _ . I o I . .m,- I . u .
.. I . I . _.r .1 g . . I: .. I _. . . o. u I . . I I v 5 .0 .. . . 1.0170. ... o I.) I ‘. . I .
... . . . . .. . . . . ... .. I . . I . . .. . . . I..Or_ .. . . ...II. ......I ...I 2‘ .fllA...I|.90a”.uI|rI
.I I I I .. .1. . I . I _ .o . . v . . II. I. \‘o O.
. I I . . I . . . c . . . I
. . I . . I .u . . . I} I . . I
. . u . o o J .I I . I a I . . I I I . c ..I . . y .
I . . . . I . 0 I . I .. I I. . c u ,. .... GI I
I J I . I v. 0 . II . d I I. O . .. . 4 a I . .. I _ . . ..2......... II ..
.. . I I. |.. I ... . I . t I I Q. . . . . . . . I. u . I. .. . .
O I . I I . . ... . . . I o . .. . I . . . . . I I . I _ . . I I Q . I . I . .
..I . f . . I... I I .I. . I . _ .. . .. ..1 . I. . . . . . .o I .0 . . . . I I . . . II I...’I \U...Io. §..q
. n. I . . ...I .. I . II . . .I o I y . . . . I . I III . . ..Ifi.-.o.oe.flnl.u .3:A'I.."Yq:.Copt‘
‘ o . . . ... I I. . I b I I . . . I I . ... bI-.i&.'bIflO,. ‘IQ_~4"..1O.
I _ .u o. A .. . . I . . I . . 4 . I I . ..uno- ’0' I: ...!
fl . I I o I. . I .. . A v I I I . . L I c I I .
. I . I II . . . I .. I . I I . . . . . ...
.I I I I . . . I. O . . . . I. . I . O . . a n
. . I . I . o _ .. . I x I o o I o I . I 1 . ..~
.. I .I I I. . 00 .I . . I ... o. I I . I .
. ... . v .. I .I . . \ s
I . I ‘ . _ . I . I I. .0. . . I I u. . O I I . I ..
. .. . . I . . I I . . . I I . . .Q o .. . 0
. . I a . . . I . . . or o I . u 9. . . . . .I I . .\I . .
Q I r . . . I . a O . I o . I . . . .I . I In.
0 . _ . . . .. I o. . . O . .I. I J I o a O
I I . o I . n l I: 0. v
. v I. I o . . . I . 8 . a
I .. . . o . . . .o . I . .
w . ‘c . .5 . . I . . . . . I . v
s .. I . . I ... . I . I . . II
I I I . I . I A . . . I . . . I. . I . I o I I I . . I a
m n . . . i 1 9o . . r u I. 6 . . . . .. I o ‘ . I . I
d I . I .. . I . . . I . . . I . ..
I I II . . ... I . . 'I . . O . . . . I .
W . . .9 . I ... I . 1 v v . C .. .I . c I I I I I
I . . 1 .0 . II . .. . o . . . . . .
‘g . .- v. I o I . . . . . _ I
m. .. .. . . O _ . \ . . .o . . . . I . . . . .. . ..I :0 I . . . . . . . I..‘.01‘..ICAU.’('I I" .0.
I I . t . . . . . . . . . . . CI... 1 , . 0:... ..I
I . I . . ..I I . . . . . . 1o . I I I .. . . . . . o
I .I I d. . II 'I I . . .. I . . . I . . . I I t. . .
| I. I . . .a . u I . I I . 1.. ~
~ . . . . . . . ... .. . . .
I . I . I . . . I I Q . I. .
II I I U I ..I I .. o I I I I . . . , DI . n I
m . I . .. . - . . .. - r . .
' I I I . I U I o . I I . . . I . I I . . . o 9.. .- I.
I, . I . . . .. . 1.v .. ....o...
. . I o . . . . 'I . .I _ . . .. _ .0 . .

. t . . I . . . . . . o I . q o I. . o I III ...1. .O- .
.1 . . . .. .. . . I . . .. I 2.1 .2... 51.. .......:I-...:.....:u,.....r....,
. . . . . . I .. S . . .. . I I I .. I. . . . I1... .... IzoI..fo.thO.‘ 0...... o r
O. I . . . .I I. I . . .. .I .I I . . .0 .. II. ...0 . 1....-.3: 51-... ,. A
O. I I U . . . I I _ . .1 . . . . .. . . ‘. ._ , I.- II... I. 1 .o..¢.:’J’»-(|
9.. I I I . .I I . . . I .I .. I .1<~.eft.,\. I». I. Cu’. .... It‘c‘l_.11-’l
0 A. . . . 3 . . . I v o . .. II-.. I. . I1: .‘4:1 III.

I .. . I I .. .. .1. . . . . I . . I _ o o a o Q. o I I. 4.. .N .3 ...
. I . I . I . . . . . . ... . .I .9 I. .I...4. ‘.OI ‘0'.

u . . c I g . . I I I I . L.I‘II..VK.<.‘,\AI

._ . . . . . . .II . .... .. IIIO'..¢'0I
¥ I . . Q .l. I I. . I. . . . . ....9 . . I I11) OI «09S,

. .I I I I I . 1.0. U. o o a.
o I u . .
q . . - - - . _
I .

 

IG. w. .. ‘0 I.‘|v....OIOIII$‘

. . . . . . . . ... L . ..II.QI..3|I1

Q I ..- . ...I. . .. 5.0. ....IQC'O. I o..II-‘..|O.. I

.0 . . 14 ._ ...... I ...-I ol.. .Q... I\ )II ...
I . . . . .

. . . ;

o
I

m-eawmav-IO
‘
O
I
|
.'
i
I
I
'1
I...

   

‘ o
. I 4 .. \1 J .. .UI . . 5‘ I I. b a c I I . . .‘ 1.. .. I I . ...v . O . ... u do I
... . I L 1. . . .. .-. .II . I... I, _ _. ... . ..1 I. IV 8.. .....I... I. I. 4. I I. .. 1... . . . II 20.4. .I . .I II I .I . ... . 5..-... I... . I. .
.... €13.17... «.4 1m} ,1 1 I ... I ......é . . ..... . . .. . . _.
.Ifmfl khan-Kt. I. . . I . I . .. 0 _ .... . . .. . . .... .. I a . I I .. . I I . . I .. .
_ t ..I .. , . ._ . ... 3 u _. .I .... In. .. .. is. .Ia ...;3 ... .. .... .. .....1 ....-I. - ... . ....... ....i _.
“c. . .w €¢3JCDJ .I . \a - I .... J30 ..I.. 0., I... .. ... . .... Snf.1.O.I.1 ... . .I . . I . . ... .

 

.r
i UBRARY
~ .‘vtictnqan State
L University

 

 

PLACE IN RETURN BOX to remove this checkout from your record.
TO AVOID FINES return on or before date due.
MAY BE RECALLED with earlier due date if requested.

 

DATE DUE DATE DUE DATE DUE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

w
2/05 WW15

MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY
TEXTILES. CLOTHING AL") RELATED ARTS
COLLEGE OF HOit-IE ECONOMICS

//§;OPERTIES AND USES OF SYNTHETICS ON THE MARKET THAT MIGHT
BE IESIRED BY THE HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS FOR

CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION CLASSES/
by

Charlotte Ladner

//

_\‘ ‘
My.“

I.
II.
III.

IV.

V.

VI.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Pllrpose and SCOPE) 0 o o o o o o o o o o o o 0 ~

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Preperties and Uses of Synthetics on the Mar-
ket That Might Be Desired By The High School
Students for Clothing Construction Classes. .
Nylon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Orlon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dacron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lgnel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specific Problems Encountered in Handling
During Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Conclusions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ll
15

20

51

52

PURPOSE AND SCOPE

In the peat Iew years nylon, the first true
synthetic, has grown in importance un il it is widely
desired, accepted, and used oy tne pUblic. Other
synthetics are rapidly gaining importance on the mar-
ket. Thererore, it 18 increasingly necessary for
the consumer to know the advantages and limitations of
these fibers as well as tie care of them. Since these
fibers are also of ered in yard goods in growing amounts,
it is wise for tne woman wno sews to know how to handle

the fabrics during the c nstruction of garments or

.3.

.ousehold furnis

Y

it 18 tue purpose or this paper to give speci-
fic information on preperties and characteristics
of synthetic fibers which require care and handling
during construction, as well as laund ring and care

during the us . it 18 also tee ai' of the writer

CI)

to present the information at the level of understand-
ing or tne nigh sch00i Student.
The paper is limited to a discussion of the

‘ ,Qy ..I‘ if ' M (-
four synthetics 30L on tee nuriet in ;r:auest quan-

tity -- Nylon, Orlon, Dacron, and Dynel.

KTROEUCTILN

As compare with the slow and steady CCV“lOpm°nt in
'the run: facttu*> of rmnxtlsl.ififi)ors, fir? n?¢_1‘;actture of Enni-
ma‘e fibers has mushrooned into :ifisntic nrowoet’ons within
half a century. Consider the fact, For exa vie, that nylon,

,5

one of our test import.snt textile ii

q
l
|

Jers was practically un-

1.- . .. 4."? A??? .-M 'i, --,.-: - , J» Li ... -
“noun until 17) , uniia it an Decals one Ol ole -orenos

cases have a price &GVLRtQ:0 OVrr natural fio s as well as
“sin: sore dependable in supply and duality. Ant synthetics
give toxt’le nanu uf&ctL1P~P s grea flexibility in styling.
Vith these selling points to work on synthetic producers
think they still hsv* unlimited markets to open up.

Be'n: face to Tics wit‘ so man;r no? synthetic in
fabrics for cl thin" construction and i: r'cd; -n:sde :a“xents,
it is rise for censunirs to knew the adv itsf 3 aid the limi-
taster“ o" thine WNV fi”” "cf“ 3“oc".

Iyl n, Orl-n, Dachn, and Eynel are the g31r synthe-
tics founc i: tl“ :rcatcstt ount , on the market today, that

—. n. .’\ ~ o~
is, exciucinw r'yon. syl n, vrlog, and Dacron :5‘ so COJ”lC~
enel rewhnrs of a class of flb'rs s ssotsin; “co“crti:: i;
Citron 35 h are “0+ no" rsnd oy tn: earlier synthetic or
natural dihers. These are:

:I" "h stret- "t'l
~- - - v .
lazy laundcrdbility

wuick drvinr
v‘ v

Bimensiora sta‘ilitv n
Tssentiallr min 7
Ability to o~ heat tuoi
Resistcnce; o nildew and
Excellent uzaiility
Retension to pr;ssins in

V

'xr Y1 Ar“! 1 an 7 “O a 0qu 7“ '5‘
old J—O--, Ua- .LOL’) Lv--(.l Jig—401 on LV'. I) C..~‘L

flexi

these

(Zr-v.”
.../x

oil ity, reSi

C'A-

- 1- ..'-‘.
erent 1L1

- '1
',\n f. -\r-‘ (“fl-fl . (\0
CI" .jwu‘,:.) u“- .- IJ‘L'ZM

‘

liencr‘, or“ stifl‘l’lf‘s 8- A (313

KM

ts

respect to

ssion of

Best describe their advan-

"f'H'fi "‘“" 1‘ “'“'“ TTC“‘Q .fifi CV r'm ' ~fim '16 'fig‘.’ m“ -— “w—“sm Mfr, m V! A rvm
Pfi‘CP¢;; «41-4 ix._¢U UH‘J V: LJ. ..A.\ ..L ~A-n—o-l- Um) U¢. J... l-.. :JMiLHXHT 4L-..AI'A.~ .. JLLJ.

2—1 v‘wg-«ITTIT 7-.1r M:
‘u Jae) ABA—MAJ -Ja. .L-

H4

3 HIGH SC 30L TTDLZTTU FOR

— .A," iv»: 1,11 ‘ (Hm? )v-Yfl-q A'TT " -_ m a -?'_V
CLJVLaA-Laoq CJ:ID&L.WI VLI‘h—ab .L—J‘d-J -‘,~‘J.
nylon
11’ , i .9 . 'I. .. 4.x 4.: a"
nylon has tne lirst of tne truly synthetic liners.

I t W

9.)
L)

first offered for sale just before Yorld Var II.

The combination of Turability, veerooss, strength, and ease
of C? re accounted for the success of nylon from the start.
Like most other important materials, nylon ”went to we ,
which, of course, delayed somewhat its exoansion into other
logical uses. We might trutn:ully sar that nylon started

a revol utian in the textile industry which is still in
ress. Since the war, nylon has been employed in a
variety of new applications. The crit::rion of its adoption
in new uses has continued to be one of functional perfor-

mance per dollar cost. The major prOpo ties responsible for

. l
enumerated oelou:

C)

l"

m
0

its outstanding succo s
Lxcell_ ent abrasion res is tsnce
Higri tear resistance
High elastic recovery

'° ..3 1‘1 \wv- —' "DD

.13.. ,‘l J. J—E.).l'k 1-.I..- '

., ‘ ,..‘. .l. . -i A 1
libs ten le ,troc'ta

alkali
to bending

J
1d
-Lu.

[4
Q
N
"S
u)
[2
(g) H‘ {‘5
_’)
(3 H; c+ O I—°
;
C; O O
’7)

.5106 .

the fibers, or even fab-

ric. It is lifficult to obtain good dark colors in syn-

thetics and-where a as A color is used there is fading with
,shings. Some dves a.“”‘7 being put into t

There are improvements oein" made, however, in he dyeine

g)

of nylon. In the case of blends, it is di; “g“icult to get a

u‘ for dyes than the nylon.
Folloring ylon continous -il“ncnt ya rn come nylon

str is for use in spun structure, both knitted and woven.

par amount. Kojor uses lor ngrlon are: hosiery, trico
knitted underwear and linserie woven urcortesr and lingerie,
woven underwear, woven dross fabrics, woven sh.rtii"s com—

C)
binstion fabrics with rayon, synthetics, on n9.tural fibers.

‘,‘.'.. .L . w . - n " . . ', 1 ' 4- '1
nvlon knit ed and woven garments con oe washes in the
‘ O ’r ,3 _ m‘ Y 1 ,r: .—‘ ‘ r‘u‘, . ' "- » r .‘, -\
wasnih: mscnine. lee; must as ManQd thPOU;le if they 33‘

to stay white or bright. If they are huzg to drv while
drioning vet, they will not be wrinkled or reeuire ironing.
However, dm1r11" construction of a nvlon srmgnt, or when

v V V

- - ~ -_ n q, n
pressing is necessary, the iron should be placed on rcyon .

7 ‘ ‘ _ l . -..
Tnoro are alccchos on the margnt soocificclly “one lor

vw D 1 1 ‘ a f" _
nylon ll c o_ecca is necocclrv.

f." ‘ . , - - '~ 15:: 0 .
JcVi-fl *ith UOJOQ nvlon laorlc. “hon out tlnE

 

 

w V ~__ ~. 1 n q ‘ q -_ j"
fcoric, vol- cgachwl . clears snou_d oo u:oo locvl i

nylon

COM???“

‘ J

...A \l

f‘
C

no Clo that will accommodcto the thcccd. Sharply pointed

-," . ‘2 LJ. . ”1.. .2“ 1....” , A '
an: flvc 09oo0” rosulcs la oascln.. Lglon tir»? d 1w

rm“,

1 ‘ v 1 ‘ ~'-‘.~«‘ . A ~ H w ‘V~ '0‘ ’ ~ - ‘-
commcnooo lo nylon lworlcs. Josue SOdn wlta nleJ

.\1 ~ - - ‘A .‘ r-v \ ‘ rq‘L ...1
cins aL slmrp, lino “ood_cc DQHCUPUUG toupc nylon o-

n , ~ '1 a. , ..: 1,. ,1,‘ ,, ~ _-1 .~ - '7 _ 1-
are d ragm , L~y qo_culy x on afiSflO‘, cnc will not scrim”.

r- J.‘ _ '. . , ~ " '1 . ' . ,-., S
Otuor ukPQQdS, However, may oo u-cd. ’lOfl fix: a c

‘ q . J— , . I" ' , 1- ".. L r" L ‘+

co out JlUJ SloSOPS as lo is so tou_g casc cot

q! " - ‘~‘ ‘-" " 1 “‘ " ,r 'I H Ar ......

crock it oy “gnu L3; cause pulleo s dls . It also

it a clocn-cut ond that is cccior to put tLrough tho

_‘\

0; tie noodle.
It is very impor ant to test stitching on all

g

'0 ‘ ~ 9 t -‘ t . fi a». . v < ".P‘ t ‘1- f1 -.
laoriccc oe-oro s or 11% so: :crzano“ soamo. -lls W

‘»‘K 1‘ q I" "" "“w . '- .3 " " ’ ‘ V '9 ’ “" I. " L . -“
colp you cotarblno tJO QrOpwr so llr hooligc cotc1n_

0

T1 , .0 4. 7 , , 1, . 1.. -. ‘ H a, , ‘ , _ ~. ~.
scxor stlcclos no“ inc; can oo LLQ¢ vgon so lo: “r o:
c- ‘4

._'J_

- . .
. . . ~ ‘ . . J. \. - L 1-,. -. n
:.a of. v fbfliloibfipn stitc as a;
._. J K/

H

A-a A G‘- -»-, a' --—, ~-'- .~\ A l a .9 - - -~ ~ , _, -n .
ifJI‘ u-;;‘v-i “.OD’J L43l 3C4 0’1 OU.1 .4? __ A... I‘iC I1. .‘ Oil 711-,Lq11

,‘ \ '1 .L '. ‘., a . -...L 1. xx. . ., ... .‘.., .- .-
shallcr SoltC¢C2 lop t4»);gcicc_u3: ;3gr own choorlm
- i I, ..

(2) ET f:

1.

W a I 'fl-
..L‘—’a.

octo-

Ls ... n .0 1- .0 ,. .- '1'? ‘. ‘7 - . r. J. 1.3 ., - . A.
clon n tlo -ccrlc itself .ill colp fOJ co_oCU ugh pro; 9

\ -~,\ 1..,,-A~,.L... .. .. ~- -. , ». v-'. . .- ~ -
KHLCJJJLO £2 dJLkiojnLluao ”zl.n 2y? lt,» ocz cl‘,-cl1 1.cvrx1

"oricc

as fox as S‘V“? st: ch73 to a: inch may b7 u “G, particu-
larlv 3~r "“316“ **C“s. Jylon's 3*“~1"th allovs “:is
O

[orbs stitc: to b? fiOSC’Dl“. -

Tho stitc; 'Tsild 3* fast C as tgo stra: ht if t:.
'ooas, ~O'rri " tonsio: until a vwll-Sorucu out looss stitch
”s : 14:3. Q»\o"n‘;‘ CI‘:: ;lorz's r“x t _Pt:‘itftfli 5416 "l'Isti-oif;j,
s; i “"fljf- t xii -x;::cru'23_'zrscr '"fi: oil'g“*1”“ QC: 2-.
cause s,a 3 row: vita nylon 5hr “d to puclsr. Tho: SO“i:r
r’th tariads 0th r than nylon, usw loose tons as as} largo
stitches, too. The uso of is: c or ordinary sholf paper

.. , o u. . -9.-- Lj- _ . .. .1.
your material 3 to: ‘1 .s smooolcr soczs alon sov of
‘ ‘ A 1 ‘ - A\ ‘1 - 4 4 »~ - V‘s—‘f

snoop a“; ti “tly “onun llorics.

‘b

" -- .. .‘ . .0 . H . _ .’_‘\ w - _ ’ '1
scams On nrlon LLUPLCS, as on all _ise laJPlCS Sflu lo

7 I Y) A 3‘ fl 1 v wu'g 1 ‘.- 9. J- ‘v‘ r‘ ‘u-L- ‘1” y f1 “f" r‘ V" '\‘ ‘4 .3 7h ,. 1" f5," 0’1 . o
L)? CL... 2'; kl_...;.r :L.:~C.C' .. .1- La... JLLU co‘v'l Ox... .iL.) o J Juhic'. , a. .. Luis..-’ guLle
. ' . . - ' 1 J.
n 4. I J. . A :1“ W.) - A. I) ;‘\ _». t f. »~‘.'~ ~ r. _.‘ N .\‘ I r4 .q ~ ,1 m. :1 ... -q 1 r, < . _ m 1"
5) ‘Jlb‘32_ Kl.’ 0L O! 1 3-... - ‘4‘ .I) ‘_..---/ ~a|.J-_) 5 l‘. A- kJ'...-_1\J‘ ..‘J‘. L.‘ s)
'5 p “p Q .. o 1 ‘ - _ ’ '1 ~ 0_ O aw 4. fl
‘fif‘ v-‘ rs . - r > ~ -. 4 {A Q , ,- v w) ,\ " ‘ f1 . W ‘1 'fl
-. :u‘ _....'-.. o J. .L ....-- . 4 .-C C .5 .; ..LJ-l VC ALLJ. elk/Lab .L O; €JOJLJC':

1.0 ‘. _, . o ‘ 1' ‘ ~~ 0, ,1, fl ,., 31..-, . ,‘1‘ ,, .‘j V-_ "t '9
sijntly Novas icorics. LOL“ c clsl L o: _;,isai,v s;.ulc
a“ W- ,-_ A ..- . ~ , , _ _ ._ .1. - -p ~ . .9 .L -

so :d.oo on usatlor or no gaar gaxticular lasrlc tcr‘s

t rsvcl. Host nvlon tricot fabrics will not avol. Finish—

-

in: “:thout raw cd§cs is not is noocssary o“ inoso as it is
on JOLC thcr fabrics. Thcnufinishin: soars with bindiajs,
be cur, thdy 3?? nylon or of proshrun: rcscriai. Noll

finishsd scans vill ha 3 proscrvo thc brauzy ans ouraoility

of nylon articles.

AS Vlta otlcr fabrics, “For "f”* :
~. fix. .1 .I. ‘ . 4. - 4. .4. J. .-
ciao: stit 3133. It is importlgt b0 ucx
4"" ’3 ”nova 3 H ”1 ”‘4-" '7' .5” -‘ «t1- . “v1” ‘ ‘ fi'J
ULAV $$U ..LDA- O.- A. 134". 3;; I.) (1 “1..-; 0:1‘TVt-ltox.
.2.--- 9.4.1 "w. 'V 4.‘ m. .... -, ,_.. ,.,
3 .L-- “1 11f; £41. a QL..1..P/ 0.4.0 LI.) 1-3.- .3! ~ ’lV '13-‘0‘4‘ 3.?

(“9'

you nave a 3 com iron, is too way so usco

Ti’JJllYX: tczxlet;__lor:13 r"2 J“r**cr turcrrzr
like fool. This has ‘ccfi (0‘0 ’P*“ CLO'

and to re: in strplc staplo :orm. Soncur
Ci: “37'1H>C fiirt 11:0 (Jontjgi'OLH: filifi"?3fi; f
ticsc it“ rctrricl; 51'“ r; it’tcC {L'PLC

“ i 4 ~ 7311 n
0.1.0 I .51.:de-
s - "J. 1‘
ra-n“ '3

,3

.x.- t - , 1
ulCS {71.30 c3. 1200.1--

rcntly, it was

Orlon's chief indrclignt cones from lit” 3 one, pot-

‘v- 110. ..V 1 ‘r ¢ ‘ 1 1°va AV -
lools siluicr tlaj sill, anc si_Lu toxtilt

H
(+
(...A

r usirfi toe loan str ands But by cho

(I)
D:
0
F5
C+
Q
*5
l

;ioor a d givihg it a
ed into a yarn w.ich, acco
Opera is the most wool-like fiber ylt mad

1". ' V ‘ofi V t 1 vw r1 6
“Qt sunrcys have alMOUt no 3:.J

xatcr and refuses to har:sor m1 ldlw or fun;

9-3
O
l-l.
Q;
I
*3
)

;sistart and a lighted cigarette ca

1

Hoths, arpat b7“t103 anc other ir— sects h

ppin: it up into

I

”pcrnaicnt h’RV“"

rCtzg to its devol-

o by ran.

n't set it afire.

J. L ‘ . “1" u." ‘
ave tee Slqnt Ol 1t.

- , I -. ... a ,_. .55: 1 ,‘.,. ,_. .0 .A ,_ 1‘. '1
In manr mars it 3 tag Lost ru ;aa LLQCr ‘Ol; . uUt oes-

pito +his, and unlike tou:; n; on, it its rcrx, :3ft tox-

- a q —. - n 4- ,J. A‘ -
tch ‘ _ or (r‘ in all-1 t*- r trots chLLorrc DJ DU50“t
V ‘, -fi.-', fi {‘1 A, J-‘ , "a .
f1 l‘V‘r. S, 11.1" nnir ‘loer‘o _;.Q__,t 1~~SS U33; 8. CLEVI'tT‘I‘ 0.. Its

. -, .--t':,..*.'1 , .o.t‘ -. .43.. fl
l; 5,2. 1:31.? .lla'C; llit 0.; L- .F‘ "l‘OXl‘ob-S Oi. Olqlcii.

..‘fx "fl'p‘ - ... 7” - .1"? a . 1‘{, "r ~r ‘
\‘U-I‘L‘ CAPJ g‘..- L-J-l“ 1 ‘5‘ A-(
.1 .-~ 9. m . r '3 _ J. ‘ .2 1', J.--
I. --k..L_..‘..;._‘. vs. ‘ it.‘
s . - Fr .- J
_ . J,
'I f\
-.( 54.. .z --lCL" \JV
~‘__V‘.~ o 0 L
VK’A“J—-L . U
... -
‘Lu‘:_LC
.1— . .0 . -..
burs. cric if:rc
‘- -, .- " J-
to; (;1_. a L c i c:<>t,
V (,1 ' ,- r ., ’ :1“ " n,
.. L; L -. ..C :. L- I

Easy laundoraoilitv - qu
Durability - er and wet
High friction - fiber to

The following is a list oi proPertios for orlon stable:

7‘ 1. - " " T» -' . ‘ -
is optional cull 3; 3 war
‘ q - _.

Too“ ate r

n; - dry and wet
o for o torwes'

L)
F;
.4
_ Q,
[.5
kg
; }
“.1
f ‘
f4
0 1—"

solectod vat colors, but the dept: oi shaéos oota

i
Lder normal Lill con itisns is stricxly limitoC.7

C

'7‘ ‘- ‘1 - fl —v v V . R ‘ ' " ' ‘ fl -. 'h‘ J' -
inc orlon Iib rs can be vovcn lLtO any 12-3L iron tn:

softost silk or acthrc to th toufhcst carpet pile. The

C
.1 K.

.-‘.-v .4.3 .fl ,1 -. -,. - -
LL_LiC&blORS oi orlon ~stories 23‘ Lo 011 013:

F5

Crlcn '“lEEGEt

D
‘- .5
1“ 0
curtains
l"
L
(N

 

brics
..‘UOI‘to o

.5

Liv cziirg; wear

10

Rainwear

Combination fabrics
Viscose rayon
Acetate rayon

Crlon stable

Suitings (especiallyb Lley)
Topcoetinjs
Cvercom. ngs
Drrss fabrics

oolen- '13s fabrics
.ashtoie woven spo rt *CC’
Kzitted tear

 

Kore orlon fa. brics ar~ bcin
The new fabrics include ttills, aizctas, EaruUiSGttOS,
filters, fancy fabrics, and hea‘y industrial clotns.

Previous uses of Orion fiber have included women's
dr esses where the quicl: recovery from creas ins had special
advantages. Women s maid and waitress uniforms have the

, . 1s , an - .- ,..t - 1: -
apoearance oi sill. Tee Lalrics give men s sport snlrts

ueavier hané and a feeling of body tha 'is not found

es are developing for some of the older syn-
thetic yarns. Generally these fa crics have not yet been
pecified for Lany military uses, so they are Ojen for

civilian use. Their avai abilitv for civilian use will

In tests run by the Consumer's Union on orlon shirts

they found tha orlon cloth washed as easily as cotton

broadcloth, but no morc so. It Cid. Cry rapiély, arc the

r‘ c- “. 1"“ ‘ r . .~ "r x' "
crs arc ctifs acoecred SLOOLJ even 1hrm not irons

It is suggested or laboratories that you wash orlon
in your machine, SpiL out the water, ban to dry,,thcn

steam-iron. seep the temperature low. Konc o? thc ncw

....

‘b

- . n H. r- _ . 1 ‘ .
iibcrs our 3 ;“~ excessive nw= t. 1 If a stra: iron isr't
cvai able for prossirg Curl: gsrrcrt construction the

empcraturc rc2ulztor s: 0le be on ”rcyon” or "nylon”

Dacron

....,!..
Lacr on is node by melt Sfliluih

to that us for rylon.

r.

F

I f
' D

O

*5

H
9

p. )

U
{:3

O

*‘J

P

d

n.»
*‘3

{,1}

(‘1
x J

1.4.
5

both cth nuous filanen aLd steels forms, whica difaor
markedly in their prOpcrties aLG uses. e
Distinctive fw 1ctions l prop rties of Dacron have
high wet and dry esiliencc, circrsional stability under
wet or lry condit13ns, high stretch crisltrcr, and hi;
host rrsistarcc. Harlot ’vclu .rti as have Csnorstratcd Q

~ '3 . - -- ~ .1 '. «.2 A” - 1
Lice varict; of «nd uses ,hcrr this h~u ricer is rruc

u/

.. .L - .r- ..- .0. . ..-" . ,_ ..n- . -.n .o 1‘ ,3 i-" .
to infirovc eh; ‘LLCtL;LQi J;l o-scccc or -ssrucs Czfl gi’e

C+

"1 ‘l L A I v -‘. ~~“". ‘p . h" . .vr n 1 o
tic L3 i.;te coinsuucr L+ie ior his zoned in ease oi

‘

*5
r0

r1
1, JL'

5.)

‘Pr” 11: “2+7
"4.1%. -.4- L-a U; i

‘71

" ,c‘c'
(:91 C, J. pug)

14.1 .-
appesrsnco wits continued

1.4
\M

o ‘F‘ C .1 “ a 1
near, lower moistenarce cost and ionger i

The staple version of Dacron is exceptional in its

fl

prOperties. The resilience prop rti<_s o; woven febri
the shape rrtcrtiCt prorrrtics of knitted fabrics, all
coupled fl t1 a minimum of maintenance, commenfi,it for many
uses now held ev wool. Expecially is this true in sunaer
n humidity conditi ns are encountered
and where Dacron is virtually insensitive to moisture.14
All of the new fibers seem to have their dyeing
headaches, and Eacron is no exception. A flood job can 3rd
is bei:5 done, but the 30b of Cycin5 is not easy. Special
techniqres, such as the use of selected dyeinv assistants
and dyein5 for lor Q5 periods at the boil, are required.
Li5ht fastness of the order required for specific end
uses has been oftainei. Furtherwore, dyes tuff and pro-
cedure develo,“ ents new in progress promise very out-
standing livht fastness in a complete range of colors.

n”. 47‘ a .. .D I '1
asn lastness oi dyes is gencr”lcv excellent on Dacron.

'14
Q:
(-+
O

The dre is hard to set on, but once on, it is

rash off. J
It is funderertsl that 5trnzents have és thetic
eptccl. This rrtns ability 0 be dyed to a complete

t
range of attractive shades, to nave 500d tailoring qual-
ities, 500d draping properties and sati sfector;r fabric
texture. Fine tailorinn is i lustrated not only in a var-

aCQUflPé “‘Cvo cock;:il Cress, 8rd

1
ioty of suitin5s made of staple fiber but in a finely tuck-
ed woven blouse, a j

. '-. -. .0 ; ° J." 'v , -
sen s shirts Oi COELlTLCUS ii_ar nt y'rn sooc sour

a: pea aranco without pucksrin5 is a fccturr.
Filament Dacron is being used for dress fabrics
such as taiietas, men's shirts, curtains, and sevin5

thread. The staple Dacron is found in men' s and women's

Easy cs re and scenery are stressed in all appli-

cai yea r and retensien of a

+
H
O
L‘;
("1
0
r4
0
t3
(7

generally Characterize Dacron. In consideration 0‘

maintenance cost, it is pointed out that this fiber has

a special plus because of its wrinkle resistanc when

wet. kfuer spots are Sponged or scrubbed off, even a

suiting fabric will dry out with a pr ssed look.

Blouses are reported to have a"5o-1:cse"apnrtr€;ce
«H

their ”cone-to "or; look, and to be vearablc

v V 1 ..-. ...A .~ .2 a... ... - " .
kltnOLt irenix5 tiffif bcir_ KuCLCQ tto teeks or more.

v v I _- r2. (. q 4
men s shirts stay sinilarly neat, it was said, one usu-
ally are not ironed after laundering. thensive con

‘ ~. r‘: ' -‘ ‘-. A. ”r‘ 7 "I '~. 1 q x _‘1 T ‘-
super tests have uCflh pace on LObd ulOUSbS anc sairts.
The first commer ial suitin fabric from Dacron was

50. However, there is still a lot

f0

vear

U

made stout on-

U)

of work to be done. For example, more considerat on must

-1-1

e 5iven to ways to overseas pillin5, the forration of szaii

balls. In one suit of la ren, pillirg was minimizid by
ii2 twist in the yarn, tight construction of the fabric,

operation.16 Ct.hcr prob 1 ml to Le ovorcono bo-

sides :illlrs are static, rrltin5, and 5arn€nt-uarufactur—

-‘ T‘r‘ * r r - -‘ n V‘ ‘ ’ I“ ‘ . ~ . --'
A Sth of sacron i- .150 s1 or Jiéllb to tlr Lrlti 5
‘ 1A ‘~__ 0 ‘5 ‘ '4 __ ? o 3 I -
of nclcs in tnc lLL"lC Ly L _lin5 tobacco. . or; lr -ltla led

to :inisizo tnis problex has already demonstrated that cer-
tain resins greatly reta d melting without hurting hand or
Mrrirkle resistance. Also, this problem is reduced
signifies ntly by blends with other fibers, notably

blends with vis ms: rayon.

Cozsidereol e work use been done on blends of
Dacron on blends of Iacron with wool and with rayon. Tne
raximlm resistance to wrinklin and crease rrtensi on under
hot, hitid conditions is illus‘rate3 by a suit of lOCfi
Dacron. ImprOchent of tne1flrinkle resistance an

dimens onal stability of worsted suits und r hot humid
conditions is r presented by a suit made from a bl:~nd of
507% Dacron and 50,1: wool. Also, 100,1: Dacron builds up a
charge 0: static electricity durin: dry weather causin5

it to cling to the skin. This problem ’s solved some xhot
by the wool and Dacron blend.l7 For suits of lower cost
that give sati lsf actory performs nce a blend of Dacron vith

rayon or cotton is recosrendedfi8

One test custoner accidentally tumbled out of a

KJ '

\nfi’J‘

‘

canoe while 1rearin5 his Dacron suit:

* 5
U
*5
go
H)
3
p
o

suit up to dry
free and still sharply crca
tos sin5 it into a vashin5 s

fect condition. (Act'ally,

cleaned to prevent the lini

are nearly impervious to in.

ly, Dacron requires little
should be dried firs t, then

settin5. If the 5arrent is

not be sprinxlcd -- nlj a
l

15
after hanging the

urs, he took it down wrinkle-

sed. Another cleaned his by

achine: it came out in per-

the suits should be dry-

ThC EOE—3t

or no ironing. The garlent

steam-ironed at the steam
very sheer the iron should

setting. If a steam iron is

\gst to frees Kh Is there 8 still

on was hin . Dacr 01 should

‘C.’

touch—up job is neccm:

nay. hashing should be thorough, for, like n3 lo n,

.Dacron needs complete clean

 

0:
5h
’3
'3
I Jo
C)
b-
r
} J
A
-4
{JO
7 J
I b
4-
C 1
Q
3
1
5
}.J.

.€_ng to stay nhite.l9

‘0‘)

A
'I , s a 'r .2 . w ... ,4 r.‘ mu
motn-proofness, are C.leCLl lczchCLcc *cy also
- 7 H ‘\ q I -' r- .
claim that dytel catscs L illerLic reaction.

1

In its natural form, dvnel is honey—colored, but it
ona be bleached or dyed white or dyed successfully with
an extensive range of colors with several d fferent

13.0

typesof dyestul s on commercial equipment. The procedures
for dyeing dynel are not ibe same as tbse emnloyed for cot-
ton, wool, and rayon. Possioly the mos imnortant dif-
ference in the techniques caploye for dynel and those
used for some of the other fibers is the requirement.that
he dye-bath temperature be kept at 205 degrees
Fahrenheit or above.21
With few exceptions, the wasnfastness of cved dvnel
is very good. The actual degre‘ of fastnsss, of course,
depends on the dyes employed. The acetate-t
a class, while 5ood, are not to fast as the acid dves.
:astness to croching is usually excellent.22 Dyed fabrics
fire usually satisfactory in regard to perspiration and
gas fading, as well as in resistance to manr other des-
tructive agents.
Light fastness is a very controv:rsial subject and

one aeout vhich it is unvise to Kate positive general

ade with the

O

statements. KOWOVFP, as a class, dy—ings a

.3
k3

acetate-typo dyes have fair li5ht f stne he excep-

S.

0
O)

tions in this class of colors are the yellows, vhich in

17
most case s are excell—nt. In the acid and direct types
of dyes, the fastness in general is much better.23

At present dynel is availawie onl; in stable
form (cut 0 lesr‘is that are processed into ya re).

The continuous filament form, which goes by the name

fVinyon n, is still in the cno,rircnte s C 5e, Vith
erpents tr5 in5 to improve its manuiacturi n5 process.
Dynel's development reverses that of nylon, which start-
ed out as a filament.

Some of the fiber's characteristics will broaden,
others will limit its use. For excm mple, dynel has what
textile Ken call a good "hand". It feels right. Accord-
ing to Carl A. Sellerstrom, Sales }- er of the Compai's
Textile Fibers Department, the prOperties of d5niel lake tlie
fiber adaptable to many consumer products which rill
reach the market in increasing amounts. How on the
market are blankets, crib blankets, and men's hose. Soon
there will be draperies, up? ;ols1_er5, pile fabrics, sweat—
ers, bathing suits, suitings and tricot and circular knit
goods. The fabrics being shown are apparel fabrics, includ-
ing work fabric, jersey weave, cynel and cotton plaid,
dynel and viscose suiting, knit goods, men's surmer hat
fabric and fur fabric.

Dynel, even in its pn ent limited production, can
be sold at $1.25 a pound. Nylon, now made in millions of

pounds a yea sells at £1.75 a pound. Vool, thich both

19
both of these fibers can replace pound for pound now
brings $3.35 a pound.24

Carbide experts will tell you, however, that dy-
nel wasn't develOped to compete with wool directly. They
say that the synthetic combines the texture and warmth of
wool with other characteristics. They believe it will
move into fields that wool hasn't touched --work clothes,
for example. So far, its commercial inroads have been
into fields previousl* exploited by wool and nylon.

Dynel has one disadvantage which the manufactur-
ers warn about; it is sensitive to heat and must not be
dric‘ at a temperature above 170 lesrees Fahrenheit as
in a tumble dryer. It should not be pressed (most war—
ments made of Lynel don't require pressing anyway) or
washed in very hot water. If a blanket of dynel is

washed and the bindin, of the blanket is ironed, the

iron should not be allowed to touch the dynel. Moreover,
while the body of the blanket could be disinfected, as

bireixn would m st like-

V

H
\D
g-
on
L.)
U
(I-
rad
..J
(J
(
y

claimed, with a strong b
l" oe damaged by such treatment.

Dynel sometimes tends to pill", or form tiny
balls, but this will be overcone in time.

In

when Dynel is blended with rayon for suiting mater-

ials, its contribution is “luffiness, bulk, resilience,

’2‘

U1

and warmth. host of these suitinss should be dry—cleaned;

k;

V {4/

:73

th an iron set at "rayon” a

reviously discussed.

l9
"vii t h

n‘grvfillflm C Dhflit'r v-1 ’5 r "In, "* ‘ m '. '3]: 'I’
.4. ._'.u - .L .Litv- .5“; o-L—«IJVdeu .L ..AL 1.:
"F -- T "‘{1 *:.".“:~'r ';T"/1"11 O“
1111'. Dbll‘u DJIL u' '9 a... V XLLJ I ..

With synthetic textile fibers being used in
ever 5rowin5 quantities for fabric and sewing thread

the number of sewi :5 problems is increas n.5- Many 0f

H
0"
C:

C‘"
TD

0:
c ’-

these problems can be attr O the natural

C”

Uie* of the synthetic fibers and others are the result
of attempts to make natural fit er fC orics sinulate
the more desirable attributes of tb e synthetics.
The nature of some of these sexing problems, their

probable causes and possible remedies should be of some

interest to fabric finisners who play su h an important

LJ

r‘r'
h.rr.=e najor cate wori e3:50 (1) seem puckering, (2) fabrb

.P

scorchiig or fusing, and (3) cuttin5 of

Cf these three, puckering has rec ived the most

.3.

attention by virtue of its current relationship with ny-
lon. So much has been said abaut this pucker and so

little done abou‘ it, that beOple cringe at the mer.

mention of th word. There.have been nany remedies de-
si5nedf rthe various types of puckcrin5.¢7

needle heat is a su“j

ect that has been receivin5

yr};-

a 5re8t di81 0
scrir5 th eads and fabrics become of 1.ide spread.
Overheated needles produce sc010h1n5 o:
fusin5 of synthetic thread and fabrics durin5 manufac-
ture. This is also present somewhat in home-sewing.

Hi5h needle tempera,ure is the result of friction be-

1

tween the needle and the fabric throu5:1*.hich it passes
f'Th

during sewin5. _nere are nany factors which are ob-

viously a part of tliis prOblem of needle heat: (1) speed

. l~

of the re chine, (2) yarn count, wei5ht and cone truction
of the fabric, (3 ) chars ct wri tics of the fiber used in
the fabric, (4) fabric finish, (5) number of plies of

fabric in the seam bein5 stitched, and (6) needle shape

Unsatisfactory seams may be due to either of two
main causes, yarn sliapare and yarn breakage. In the
former, which is usualiya sso ociated with fabrics such
as sa ins, the seam fails when strain is put upon it
because the threads parallel to the seam and situated
between it and the actual edge of the material pulls
out of the structure and seem orens in consequence. In
less severe cases, the threads slip sideways, leavin5
a crack dovn the line of the seam. This is a well-

known feilin2 in which warp and fillin5 interlacin5s

K.’

H

are relatively :ew in number, particularly vh n, as is

22
uaually the case, such materials are woven from highly
lustrous and slippery yarns.

The actual yarns of which the material is woven

are ruptured in stitching in many places along the tract
of the seam, with the result that, in extreme cases, the
garment tears along the seam when a low tension is appli-
ed, much as a postage stamp is detached from its neigh-
bor. Any seem that has a larger number of cut yarns will
probably be objectionable in appearance, and cut yarns
are particularly noticeable in any close-fold seam such
as that which is found in the lapels of mens suits. The

regular cloth—point or round—point needle hat is in

.u

l—J.

general us~

\

n the garment industry is designed to pro-
duce minimum yarn damage. As the needle enters the cloth,
the yarns normally bend out of their normal position,

V

unless, as sometimes happens, the needle hits a yarn

in the middle and splits it. Hhen the yarns cannot
readily deform around the needle they are cut.

The ability of a fabric to resist yarn severance
is determined by many factors, and it would appear that
these are the principal ones: stress-strain propertie
of its fibers, the geometric construction and arrangement
of the yarns, the presence or absence of resins and lub-
ricants on or with the fibers.29

The only general recommendation that can be made

which will reduce seamin e due to all factors is

the use of .he smallest diameter needle. That is the

conclusion of two British scientists, C. H. Dorkin and

'97

L. H. Chamberlain, who recently completed an extensive
study of seam damage for the Textile Institute, Man-
chester, England.30 The e aperimental work showed that

seaming damaxe in .roven and knitted fabrics is attribut-

V

I‘ ’1'

‘ r- -n- M -n‘ or. 4. . ,. P .. -- a J- r. q.
01 2 to a Variety oi lactors. uOLC oi these Tastels ale

$3

inherent in the fabric, while etlnrs er eelelecst on
the sering machine.

The additi n of some type of dampening attachment
to the machine might be of help, the scientists con tinued.
This method has not been tried, they reported, because its
application would cause some complications. However,
dampening the line of the seam possibly by some type of
attachment fi ted to the machine, might help. This would
serve the double purpose of softening any starch-like
finishing agent, and of incrrasing the extensibility of
t e fibers, both of n‘hiCh "ould reduce the dasrage.31

There are new well-recesnized methods of over—
coming slippage. The seam may be taped or bound or other-

wise reinforced, or the material may be made from some

..

thermorlastic material such as Jh1;on or cellulose ace-

7

has seen made with such thread, it
is hot-pressed, so that the fusible component of the

sewing thread melts and glues together threads of the

immediate vicinity, preventing subsequent slippa so in

use.32

It is further noted that damagz is reduced if

’3

{5‘
D‘
C
q
H.
D;
H
C"
’4-
C.)
(a
B
O)
c?

the materials are stitched at hi lat

I.

when several 18 c3ers o_ fabric are stitched at elce the

lower layers Lffcr none for: e ttcn the urge: 0;;2.

Labrio constrrctier. fiitchin3 on tricot and vs}
Vet presents still further considerations. In the con-

stuction of a tricot arment mercerized cotton or fine

cotton sewing thread (so-loo)or si ilk size A or finer
should be used. The needle should be no coarser than the
size designed for PO — 100 cotton. Coarser needles will
cut threads, weaken seems. There should be a slight
stretching of tricot as it is stitched to eliminate any
drawn or rippled cf“; set in seams, prevent broken threads.
This is the real secret of successful sewing with tricot.
It is done bf gently p lli n3 the f abric between your hands
as you stitch, one hand placed in front of the needle,

ne behind. Be careful to exert the se.rne amount of
”pull" vith each hzn” so as not to force the fabric

under the needle or to retard its progress. It's a six-
p e trick, not hard.

It is wis e to re in'orce certain seats. Shoulder

seams, where there is appreciable strain, should be re-
inforced. Also when you have a bias seam, especially in

a skirt. Curves for neckline and armho es are easier to

to handle if reinforced. A line of stitching on each
of these suspect sections, about 1/8 inch inside the seam
allowance will do it. For a 5/8 inch seam, a stay-line
about % inch from the edge of the mat rial is made be-
for the seam is stitched. Seam binding may be used but
it is more bulky, often not as sa tis sctory.

Interfacings (cam fisric, percales, effe t8)£
tn and body to collars, cuffs,
vaist bands, front or beck facirgs Vhero button holes
occur, etc. Inter‘n :culd, in most caSes, be

attached to the garment or outside section, then facing

8p1alied.

As in all sewing, pressing the tricot gzrment is
import‘nt. All s marzs should be pressed as they are

stitched. If an adjustable s

(1'
T
«"3
:1
Ho
"5
O
.21
1-}.
L)
C
C 1
<')
O:
U

03
F?
9
i3
<+
O
H)
m
c+ H'
3
go
’5}
0

be set so that it gives onl a small

A hot iron sh fiOUld n ver be used. If a steam iron is

When it is necessary to wress from the right side for
linal pressing, it should be covered with a clot“ thét

has been slightly a.poncd. Then pressing tricot, it

should be ores ed at all times on tso length—wise grain

O)

,.

.9 v: " ‘- , . - . ‘J- ~ \ fl
unless yOu vish b0 increase the Uleho If an area needs

to be widened, press cross-wise.

q

Since tricot doesn’t run or rrvwl, 10 soecial Seam
finisnes are necassary. LOOps, bindings and cordine
should be stretched lightly as stitched. For bound
butt nh0les, the interfacing must be in place on the
underside of the garment, worked outtonholcs should be
made only on interfaced sections, gathers and shirri a
may be made by hand or by machine, sons and facin 3
may be finished with seam binding or od:e-stitching.¥u

Velvet, like any other fabric, should be cut
on a smoonn, flat suriace. if necessary to work on
the floor, first spread a sh ct on the rug, stretcn and
iaSten it securely 3b ta? Iour corners. Lay the velvet
with the pile up on the sheet or other cutting surface.
If the pattern indicates pieces cut on a IOlQ, or cut
double, fold the velvet in half lengthwise with the
lile on the inSide.34

a flat

Ho
0
}.J
‘1)
«1:
H
L)
7
P
.3

Baste seam edges with rabr
surface. Pins, preferably brass ones, may be used
alone seam edges where holes made by them will not Show.
Easting should be done sits a long slender needle and
silk thread. Cotton unread may catcn into partiales

1

of the pile and .a5 slight flaws in the fabric. Pin

0

I-

(3

bottom and toe edges 01 ~eams together first and ease
in fabric gently so that all seam edges are straight

and even. Easte Vlbfl snort, not i ng, running Stitches.

27
Rake all fit“ n5 djustirnus on the garrent while
it is still use ed, machine stitches once made can—
not be altered without marring tne fabric.
.or machine sewing, use silk thread. It is
sli ntly elastic and will help to preVent pUCAereo
seams. AQJUSE the machine with a rather long stitcn.
If the stitcn is too short, the labile nay pucAer at
the seams. insofar as possible, avoid any outside
sitichin: on velvet. If necessary to attach pockets,
bands, or collars, they are best done by hand, working
fron the wrong side. The beauty of velvet lies in

‘

its smooth unmarred surface; Therefore, ins

IE).

r- fi-‘n H
Cf? DAL-La?” Q,

-
l

which are almos eimpletely hidden by the pile or the
velvet, are most flattering and satisfactory.

If two bias e07“: ust be joined in sheer vei-
ide pater under the seam and stitch with the

straifiht edje flat next to the teeth of the feeder

plate of se'ing yach des.33
velvet cannot be presied in the safe way as

other fabrics because of its QliO. where are two

‘

praCtical and satisfactory m= t :oes o

H)

pressing: one is
with a edl aboard, the other with an iron and thick
padding of turkish toweling.

Velvet should as dry— cie nee. However, baby

carriage covers, ;.3illuw t ,3, table runners, bed

26
jackets and other plain articles may be washed if
color-fast.

squeese velvet gently through warm mild suds
and rip se thoroujhiy in warm water. Do not wring
or squeoze but sang :nile criotinv xqet on a line to
dry. bnaxe gently during the drying process and
brush ligzltly while at ll Slightly damp. Before

vet Ddc'J es conoitteiy dry, steam eross it to raise

i . 75
‘ '- A Fl a ' . . ' , '.O I" ’ - ffi
and r store the liesi, 37¢ aopearance.2

saving With nylon thread. After working with

D€”n de-

0)

nylon, Since its 1r caption in 1938, it ha
cided that the s eat of most n; ion seriig thr*9
problems lies in the tension adjuStments. ”1th some
of the coarser fabrics, the develOpment of excessive
needle heat during he sowing Operation someti as
0348 as dis in t\9ration of tee thread if the pPOper
precautions are not t hen.

As a consequence Oi tee high tension exerted
upon the saving tn ead, the eloneation is taxen out
of it beforo it goes into the garment, as in the case
of undergarment seams . Later, when the nylon re-
stores itseif to its orginal length it is round to
have gathered and distorted the material.

Jocause Of this natural t ndency 01 nylon

29
thread, t0p and bottom tension should.be as loose as
possible, while giving good seaming and stitching.57

Sewing with Dacron thread. Sewing thread of

 

Dacron is now being offered for the first time to home
sewers. It is particularly suitable for sewing fabrics
made of man-made fibers, expecially the newer ones: Or-
lon, nylon, and Dacron. It's important that the thread
used on these fabrics will not detract from their in-
herent qualities such as quick drying, strength, and
long wear. Since thread of Dacron possesses these
same characteristics, it can be expected to contribute
the unmosr in performance when used on fabrics of these
newer fibers. The manufacturer also recommends the
thread for sewing fabrics of silk andwool.58

Sewing thread of Dacron is characterized by high
stretch resistance, high strength, dimensional stabil-
ity in wearing and washing, and good durability. This
thread gives good sewing efficiency and performance; it
is ooerated on sewing machines with a minimum of ad-
justmentsi59

Tests conducted by the manufacturer show that it
is as simple to use as mercerized thread. Switching
from cotton of equivalent size to thread of Dacron re-

quires no change of needle. The thread is easily

threaded into the needle as it cuts clean without fuz-

50
ziness. Because thread of Dacron resists stretching
during sewing, it eliminates puckering and reduces
"creeping" at the seameend. It stitches shears beau-
tifully and has a soft sheen and is shrink resistant.
For hand sewing, it is smooth to work with and does not
snarl.

Home sewers will find.this new thread of Dacron
nationally available in limited quanities at chain
stores, deoartment and variety stores and piece goods
shops. Stores have informational leaflets which are

available to saleSpeOple and consumers.40

Nylon, Orlon, Dacron, and Bynel are the four syn-
thetics found in the greatest amounts on the market to-
day, that is, excluding rayon. Nylon, Orlon, and Da-
cron may be considered members of a class of fibers
possessing prOperties in common which are not possessed
by the earlier synthetic or natural fibers. These fib-
ers are different with respect to flexibility, resili-
ence, and stiffness.

Eyeing is a difficult process with all synthetics.
Because of the low affinity of them for water, it is not
easy to obtain good penetration of the fibers, or even
the fabric.

All of these fabrics may be washed. The best
pressing results if a steam iron is used. However, a
regular iron may be used if set on "rayon" or "nylon".

The specific problems encountered in handling
these fibers during 0 nstruction break down into three
categories: (1) seam puckering, (2) fabric scorching or
fusing, and (a) cutting of yarns. A needle of the small
est possible diameter is the best solution to these
problems. I

Sewing thread of synthetic fibers is best for
sewing on synthetics beCause it will not distract from

their inherent qualities.

CONCLUSIONS

High school students doing clothing construction
work should have a full understanding of the synthe-
tic they choose to work with if they are to get the
best results during construction and a finished product
that will give good wear. How to care for the garment
is also an important item for them to know.

It should be pointed out to them that the fabrics
of soun yarn will be easier for them to handle than
those fabrics of filament yarn. With knowledge of the
problems encountered during construction and the best
methods of solving these problems, advanced homemaking
girls should be able to make satisfactory products

from the new synthetic fabrics.

FOOTNOTES

1 uuig, Em. J. 8., "why Five Fibers?", Rayon
and Synthetic Textiles, Volume 52, September 951,

p. 35'.

 

2 Ibid.

 

5 "As YOu Sew With Nylon", wyion Division E. I.
DuPont De Nemours & 00., Inc., Wilmington, Delaware.

4 uuig, 22. cit., p. 69

5 Day, Michael. "There's a New World In Textiles":
POpular Mechanics, Volume 95, June 1951, p. 121.

 

6 Quig, 22} cit., p. 69.

7 "Dyeing of Orlon and Nylon", Rayon and Synthetic
Textiles, Volume 52, March 1951, p. 56.

 

8 auig, 22. cit., p. 69.

9 "More 'Orlon' Fabrics Becoming Available",
Rayon and Synthetic Textiles, Volume 52, April 1951,
p o ' o .

 

lO "Orlon and Fiber V Shirts", Consumer Reports,
Volume 16, April 1951, p. 150.

 

11 Kendall, Helen W. and Dr. W. E. Coughlin, "Five
New Miracle Fibers", Good Housekeeping, Volume 155,
September 1951, p. 199.

 

12 cuig, 23. cit., p. 71.

15 Larson, Dr. L. L., "Here's the Dacron Story",
Textile World, Volume 101, June 1951, p. 112.

 

14 Quig, pp, cit., p. 71.
15 Larson, 2p. cit., p. 514.

16 Ibid.

I.

. . .
o ;
I
- ..
U .
f 9
fl 0
C I
.
. V
. I
s.
. .
‘
. _
O .
9 4 i

17 "Enter Dacron", Time, Volume 57, May 21, 1951,
p. 107.

18 Larson, 2p. cit., p. 512.
19 Kendall, 2p. cit., p. 198.
20 "Lynel Showing Highlights Progress of New Fiber",

Rayon and Synthetic Textiles, Volume 52, January 1951,
p.475.

 

21 "Check These Pointers to Help You In Handling
Dynel", Textile World, Ikcember 1950, p. 127.

 

22 Ibido, p0 1370

25 Ibid.

 

24 "New Synthetic Fiber Gets Going", Business Week,
December 16, 1950, p. 58.

 

25 Kendall, 22. cit., p. 198.

26 Wedemeyer, H., "Fabric Finishing and Successful
Sewing", Textile Age, October 1950, p. 54.

 

27 Ibid.

28 Ibid.

50 Modern Production, Monday, July 7, 1952, p. 27.

 

29.Wedemeyer, pp. cit., p. 54.

51 Modern Production, 22. cit., p. 27.

 

52 Ibid.

55 "Here's How To Sew.On Tricot Jersey", Prepared
by: Celanese Corporation of America.

54 Lowrie, Drucella, How :2 Sew Velvet, p. 6.

 

55 Ibid., p. 7.
56 Ibido, p. 8.

57 Ellsworth, Robert E., "Successful Sewing With Nylon
Thread", Rayon Textile Monthly, May, 1947, p. 60.

58 Chemistry and the Home, p. 6.

 

59 Larson, 22. cit., p. 516.

40 Chemistry and the Home, 0p. cit., p. 6.

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY

"As You Sew With Nylon", Nylon Division, E. I. DuPont
Le Nemours. & Co. (Inc.), Wilmington, Delaware.

"Check These Pointers To Help Ybu In Handling Dynel",
Textile World, December 1950, p. 126-7, 157.

 

Chemistry and The Home. P5. 6.

"Dacron, Polyester Fiber. What Makes 'Dacron' the Ideal
Outerwear Fiber." Rayon and Synthetic Textiles,
Volume 52, July 1951, p. 59.

 

Michael Day, “There's a New World In Textiles", Po ular
Mechanics, Volume 95, June 1951, p. 120-5 ?.

 

“Du Pont Turns The Spotlight on Dacron", Rayon and
ynthetic Textiles, Volume 52, June 1951, p. 52.

 

“Dynel Reaches The Market", Consumer Reports, Volume 16,
June 1951, p. 244.

 

"Dynel Showing Highlights Progress of New Fiber", Rayon
and Synthetic Textiles, Volume 52, January ,
p. 75.

 

"Eyeing of Orlen and Nylon", Rayon and Synthetic Textiles,
Volume 52, larch 1951, p. 56.

 

Ellsworth, Robert E., "Successful Sewing with Nylon
Thread“, Rayon Textile Monthly, May 1947, p. 58-60.

 

"Enter Dacron", Time, Volume 57, May 21, 1951, Pg. 107-8.
"Enter Dynel", Time, Volume 56, December 11, 1950, p. 90.

"Here's How to Sew on Tricot Jersey", Celenese Corpora-
tion of America, 180 Madison Avenue, New York, 16.

Larson, Dr. L. L.,"Here's the Dacron Story", Textile
World, Volume 101, June 1951, p. 112-5, 512, 514.

Lowrie, Brucella, "How to Sew Velvet".
Kendall, Helen W. and Br. J. E. Coughlin, "Five New Miracle

Fibers", Good Housekeeping, Volume 155, September
1951, :3. 1796-9.

Modern Production, Monday, July 7, 1952, p, 27-8.

"More 'Orlon' Fabrics Becoming Available", Rayon and
Synthetic Textiles, Volume 52, April 1951, p. 40.

"New Syntb etic Fiber Gets Going" , Business \J’eek, Dec-
ember 1950, p. 58— 9.

 

"Orlon and Fiber V Shirts", Consumer Reports, Volume 16,
April 1951, p. 150.

 

Quig, Dr. J. E., "uhy Five Fibers?", Rayon a.nd Synthetic
Textiles, Volume 32 September"I§BI' p 5Z—_357?7'

 

Wedemeyer, H., "Fabric Finishing and Successful Sewing",
Textile Age, October 1950, p. 54.

Whitsel, T. S.,"Heat Cut by Small Needle", Modern Pro-
duction, Monday, July 7, 1952, p. 28.

 

M—ICHTGAN ST‘xTE' UNIVERSITY

TEXTILES CLOWJJ:

COLLEGE OF E}, ..

r
L
-' '\L-L

L. ELM]

ATED A'r T3
AOn’HCS

47 10/05
45966

' *4...
u—q- .._.__

31293 02589 4621