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PLACE IN RETURN BOX to remove this checkout from your record.
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MAY BE RECALLED with earlier due date if requested.

 

DATE DUE DATE DUE DATE DUE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2/05 c:/ClRC/DateDm.indd-p.15

 

MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY
, 3
EAST LANSING, MICHIGAN

AN INVESTIGATION OF OCCUPATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES
IN CLOTHING SERVICES AS RELATED TO AVAILABLE

VOCATIONAL EDUCATION IN THE ANN ARBOR AREA
By

Jane Kulpinski

A PROBLEM

Submlffed +0
Michigan State University
in parfial fquillmenT of The requiremenfs
for fhe degree of

MASTER OF ARTS

Deparfmenf of Texfiles, CloThing and RelaIed Arfs

I967

fl 9 32, MR.

L
A...
\

fi/J 2.. I.

I“ In"

ABSTRACT

AN INVESTIGATION OF OCCUPATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES
IN CLOTHING SERVICES AS RELATED TO AVAILABLE
VOCATIONAL EDUCATION IN THE ANN ARBOR AREA

By Jane Kulpinski

New dimensions in the employment market have been opened
in recent years due to advancements in science and technology.

Recent studies of employment needs have prompted legislation which
provides reimbursement for vocational education programs to prepare
people to assume new occupational roles. Revisions and changes in
the educational structure have become necessary to fulfill this
function.

This survey is an evaluation of employment opportunities
dealing with clothing services in the Ann Arbor area. Inquiries were
made to determine whether or not educational opportunities are ful»
filling existing needs. An effort was made to determine whether or
not prospective students were sufficiently interested in enrolling
in clothing services courses to warrant consideration of such courses
in curricula of post-high-school institutions.

Findings indicate that a definite market exists in Ann Arbor
for persons trained in clothing services in retail-ready-to-wear
establishments as well as on a self-employed basis in the design and

construction of clothing for a private clientele.

Jane Kulpinski

Although 92 per cent of the prospective student sample
indicated an interest in enrolling in clothing services courses,

85 per cent of this group would use the acquired knowledge for
the use of their families and themselves, while I5 per cent would
seek employment.

Responses of potential students were compared to responses
of employers to reveal that current wages paid to fitters in retail
establishments coincide with salary expectations of potential students.
However, salaries paid to seamstresses fall below the estimate of
potential students.

Analysis of responses regarding price ranges for clothing
services disclosed that potential students do not anticipate as high
a financial gain from the performance of clothing services as the
selected group of women are willing to pay. One reason why potential
students are not highly motivated to enter the field of clothing
services may be a lack of information about the value of clothing
services and the possible financial gain from these services.

Employers indicated that skilled help was difficult to find
and that, in many cases, the quality of workmanship did not satisfy
the standards of the store. Consequently, alterations are discouraged
or sent to private seamstresses.

One third of the employers would be willing to finance courses
which would enable employees to upgrade their skills it the tuition

for the courses was reasonable. Two employers expressed willingness

Jane Kulpinski

to cooperate with a teacher who might wish to observe workroom
operations for the purpose of setting up clothing services courses
to be taught in educational institutions.

Neither of the two educational institutions surveyed in
this study offers clothing services courses which are designed
specifically to prepare students for employment. One representative
of an educational institution stated that any new course would have
to fit into a regular four year program. The representative of the
other educational institution stated that an effort is made to
achieve a balance between vocational and technical programs, oppor-
tunities for both sexes, and for non-white as well as white population.
The cost of including a proposed course into the curriculum would need

to be justified by its importance to the community.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Deep appreciation is extended to a number of persons
for their role in the production of this study.

The author is particularly indebted to Dr. Mary Gephart,
committee chairman, whose interest, enthusiasm and guidance through-
out this study helped to make this experience pleasant as well as
meaningful.

Sincere appreciation is expressed to committee members
Dr. Gertrude Nygren, Dr. Twyla Shear, and Dr. Rosalind Mentzer
for their valuable suggestions.

Grateful recognition is extended to Dr. Paul R. Hunt,

Dean of Occupational Studies at Washtenaw Community College, who
inspired the idea for this study, and to members of the community
who participated in the survey.

The writer owes a debt of gratitude to her husband, John
Kulpinski, for his understanding and moral support; to her brothers,
Eugene Zontek and Leonard Zontek, for their encouragement; and to
her friends, Mary Ellen Lewis and Esther Correlio for providing

inspiration through exemplary devotion to their own careers.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .................................... ......

LIST OF TABLES .......................................... ..

Chapter

IV.

INTRODUCTION ..... . ................................

Statement of the Problem ........................
Review of Literature ......... . ............. .....
Definition of Terms ........................... ..
importance of the Study .........................

METHODOLOGY...... .................................

Selection of the Method ............. . ...........
Development of the Instrument ...................
Selection and Description of the Sample .........
Method of Presentation ........ . .................

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES IN

CLOTHING SERVICES ................................
Employment Opportunities in Retail
Ready-to-wear Stores ........ . .................
Self-employment Opportunities.. ................ ..
Salaries and Benefits Offered
to Employees ................ . .................
Price Ranges for Clothing Services ..............
Workroom Operations in Retail
Ready-to-wear Stores ..........................
Summary ........ . ................................

INTEREST IN COURSES INVOLVING

CLOTHING SERVICES SKILLS .........................
Interest of Potential Students ..................
Interest of Employers ...... . ....................
Summary .........................................

\J UiUiN—

OCDMN

I3
I5

I8
I9
20
20

22
23

Chapter Page

V. AVAILABILITY OF CLOTHING SERVICES

COURSES .......................................... 24
Criteria Used in Selection of Courses ........... 24
Summary ......................................... 25

VI. SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS ....................... 26
Summary ......................................... 26
Recommendations ................................. 28

APPENDIX A. Questionnaire for Selected

Group of Women ........... . ..... . ......... 30
APPENDIX B. Questionnaire for Persons Interested

In Clothing Construction Courses ......... 33
APPENDIX C. Employers Interview Schedule ............... 36
APPENDIX D. Interview Schedule for

Educational Institutions ................. 39
APPENDIX E. List of Cooperating Stores ................. 4i
APPENDIX F. Letter to Selected Group of Women .......... 43
APPENDIX G. Letter to Prospective Students ............. 45
APPENDIX H. Letter to Employers........ ........ . ....... 47
APPENDIX I. Letter to Educational Institutions ......... 49

BIBLIOGRAPHY ........................................... ... 5|

LIST OF TABLES

Table

I.

Responses of the Selected Group of Women
Regarding Demand for Clothing Services and
Satisfaction with the Workmanship Rendered

Responses of the Selected Group of Women
Concerning the Need for Clothing Services

COUrSBSOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 0000000000 ... OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Comparison of the Opinions of Potential
Students and Selected Group of Women
Regarding Wages Considered Desirable
With Wages Paid by Employers in Ann
Arbor for Clothing Services Positions .....

Responses of Potential Students and
Employers Concerning Employee Benefits....

Comparison of the Opinions of the
Selected Group of Women, Potential
Students, and Employers Regarding Fair
Prices for Clothing Services......... .....

Responses of Prospective Students Regarding
Previous Training and Interest in Clothing
Services Courses................ ........ ..

Responses of Potential Students Indicating
Preferences in Clothing Services Courses..

Page

2i

22

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

Statement 91_the Problem

 

Advancements in science and technology have opened hew
dimensions in the employment market in recent years. One of the
functions of education is to prepare people to live in a world of
technology and change; therefore, revisions and changes in the
educational structure of our society become necessary in order to
fulfill this function.

Employment of large numbers of women outside the home, a
proportionate decrease in jobs for unskilled workers, the high
percentage of unmotivated students who drop out of school, and the
increase in demand for service occupations has brought vocational
education Into prominence.l Recent studies of employment needs have
prompted legislation which provides reimbursement for vocational
education programs throughout the country. As a result, secondary
schools, community colleges and adult education programs are including
occupational training programs in the curricula.

The sc0pe of this investigation includes an evaluation of

employment opportunities dealing with clothing services occupations

 

IElizabeth Simpson, "Selected Issues and Problems in Secondary
Education," Journal 9:_Home Economics, Vol. 55, No. l (January, I963).

 

2
and the training facilities available to prospective employees in
the Ann Arbor area. Employment sources in Ann Arbor and curricula
of post-high school institutions were investigated to determine whether

or not educational Opportunities are fulfilling existing needs.

Review 9i Literature

 

The passage of the Vocational Education Act of I963l provided
for the continuation of the existing vocational education acts (Smith-
Hughes Act and George-Barden Act) and allowed additional funds for
vocational education, amounting to $225 million the fourth year and
the same amount each fiscal year thereafter. The act also designated
that money in the home economics category be used for home economics
training directed not only to home activity, but involving homemaking
skills for which employment opportunities are available.2

A recent study of clothing services opportunities in Grand

Rapids3

revealed the need for a training program in clothing alter-
ation skills. Such a program was initiated in the adult education
program and a manual is being compiled under the guidance of Eleanor

Tumeth, Supervisor of Grand Rapids Public Schools.

 

IU.S., Congress, House, Vocational Education Act 9f_l963,
88th Congress, Dec., I963, H.R. 4955.

 

2PoweII. Report No. 393, 88th Congress, June l8, I963.

3Patricia Rasch, "An Exploratory Study of the Occupational
Opportunities in Selected Clothing Services in the Grand Rapids Area"
(unpublished Master's problem, Department of Textiles, Clothing and
Related Arts, Michigan State University, May, I966).

3

Oklahoma State University conducted a study on vocational
education in home economics directed toward gainful employment.I
Findings related to clothing services were:

a) A need existed for clothing services.

b) Available employment in clothing services was

indicated upon completion of training.
Directions for construction techniques were geared to student
abilities, from simple to complicated, and in order of the most
frequent requests.

In I964, a community survey of five hundred women, store
managers, and alteration department personnel in Fargo, North Dakota,
indicated that there was a shortage of trained alteration workers.

A course2 in alteration procedures was designed to alleviate the
shortage and is being taught in the Fargo Adult Homemaking Program.

A trend away from vocational education in recent years may
have been responsible for shortages of skilled personnel In this and other
areas. However, vocational-occupational education concerns itself
with intellectual, manipulative, social and creative capacities of

an individual and should be part of the entire process of education.3

 

IJune Cozine, Project Director, "Certain Factors to be
Considered in Offering Home Economics CourSes Preparing for Gainful
Employment," (Stillwater, Okla.: Oklahoma State University, Research
Foundation, March, I966).

2Beverly K. Slotten, Alterations of Ready-to-Wear, (Fargo,
N. Dakota: Fargo Adult Homemaking Program, April-May, I965).

 

 

3Cynthia Parsons, "Education for Tomorrow's Jobs," The
Christian Science Monitor, Tuesday, July l8, I967, p. 9.

 

4

The Michigan Manpower Studyl labels the present time as the
Human Resources Era. The employment structure in the United States
is shifting from a manufacturing to a services orientation. In
forecasting the characteristics of Michigan's labor force for the
next fifteen years, the findings indicate that development of human
resources is necessary for continued economic growth. Although
clothing services were not included among the occupations researched,
a significant increase in the service occupations, as compared to
goods-producing occupations, would tend to Indicate that the demand
for clothing services will increase along with the demand for other
services.

A panel of consultants on vocational education concluded
that vocational education must be made available to all people who
have the need, the desire, and the ability to benefit from it, and
that education for occupational competency should be correlated with
the possibility of employment.2

Since the strength of job training programs depends on the
total preparation of the student for job entry, a course In personal

improvement Involving attitudes, appearance, manner, physical and

 

'The Michigan Manpower Study, Battelle Memorial Institute,
Columbus Laboratories, Columbus, Ohio, November, I966.

 

2Education for §_Changing World 9i_Work, Superintendent of
Documents Catalog No. F S 5.280: 8002i, (Washington, D. C.: U. S.
Department of Health, Education, and Welfare, I963).

 

 

5
mental health would greatly improve the competencies of students to

enter into the world of work.|

Definition of Terms

 

 

Throughout this study the term "Clothing services" refers
to the design and construction of clothing and the alteration of
ready-to-wear for gainful employment.
"Gainful employment" refers to a wage-earning occupation.
"Vocational education" refers to that facet of education which

prepares individuals for gainful employment.

Importance of the Study

 

In a discussion of vocational education training programs,

2 stated that three elements must be present:

Houle
a) A body of skills, information, attitudes and under-
standings to be transmitted.
b) A group of people who have a real need to acquire

the specialized training and education.

c) A medium through which training can be transmitted.

 

IDorothy S. Lawson, "Education for Homemaking and for
Employment," Contemporary Issues in_Home Economics, A Conference
Report, UniversTty of Illinois, I965.

 

 

2Cyril Houle, "Opportunities for the Professional Study of
Adult Education," Adult Education Bulletin, Vol. VII, No. 4 (April,
I943), p. IO4.

6
Reinwald' suggests that the school administrator and his
staff become acquainted with local employment needs as the first
step in initiating a Home Economics for Employment Program. If
evidence shows that sufficient job opportunities are available,
training programs can be established. Development of job analysis,
curriculum, learning experiences, resources, facilities, budget,
and a program for evaluation are subsequent steps to be considered.
This study, "An Investigation of Occupational Opportunities
in Clothing Services as Related to Available Vocational Education in
the Ann Arbor Area," has a threefold purpose:
a) To evaluate employment opportunities dealing with
clothing services.
b) To determine whether or not training facilities are available to
prospective employees in the Ann Arbor area.
c) To determine Whether or not the prospective students are
interested in availing themselves of such courses.
This initial study of clothing services occupations in the
Ann Arbor area should be useful to the community in establishing
guidelines for an educational program dealing with clothing services
occupations. It is hoped that the study can serve as a basis for

alerting other areas to the need for vocational training possibilities.

 

lCleo Reinwald, "Education for Employment," The Bulletin 91_
the National Association of Secondary School Principals, Vol. 48,

No. 296 (December, I964), pp. 3l-32.

 

 

 

CHAPTER II

METHODOLOGY

Selection of the Method

 

According to Kerlinger, the structured interview, including
a schedule with open-end, closed, and scale items, Is the best in-
strument available to secure information.l The direct interview
was chosen to obtain information from employers and representatives
of educational institutions because it offers more flexibility in
clarifying responses than does the mailed questionnaire. The
interview also provides an Opportunity for sounding out Ideas that
can be used for further research or that may give additional infor-“
mation.

The mailed questionnaire was used to survey the selected
group of women and prospective students because the number of persons

involved was too great to survey by direct interview.

Development of the Instrument

 

 

Two structured interview schedules and two questionnaires
were developed for this study (see Appendices A, B, C and D). Each

instrument contained specific, fixed-alternative and open—end questions

 

lFred N. Kerlinger, Foundations of Behavioral Research,
New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., I965, p. 476.

 

 

7

8
for the selected group of women, prospective students, employers
and representatives of educational institutions. General, open-end
questions were included in the mailed questionnaires and in the in-
terview schedule for prospective employers in order to permit
comparison. Most of the questions were pre-coded to expedite
tabulatiOn.

The interview schedules and questionnaires were developed
and submitted to faculty and graduate assistants for criticism.
Suggested changes were made in the Instruments where there was a need
for refinement or clarification. Goode and Hatt suggest that in
order to increase the reliability of the instruments it is necessary
to select respondents with a strong interest In the subject matter
of the survey.I Otherwise, the sample is apt to be biased.

The interview schedule for prospective employers was pre-
tested on two retailers in Ann Arbor. As a result of the pretest,

the writer assumed that the instrument was valid.

Selection and Description 9f_the Sample

 

 

The interview sample of prospective employers was composed of
all the personnel in charge of seventeen women's ready-to—wear stores

that offer alteration services to their clientele (see Appendix E).

 

IWilliam J. Goode and Paul K. Hatt, Methods in Social

Research (New York: McGraw-Hill Book Co., Inc., I95273 p. I82.

9

The selected group of one hundred ninety women was drawn from
among members of Women's City Club in Ann Arbor and from the ranks of
professional women, as well as wives of professional men in Ann Arbor.
The writer's professional experience in clothing design and construction
indicated that this group would have a strong interest in the survey
because of their demand for the particular skills required in clothing
construction and alteration.

One hundred ninety prospective students were drawn from the
clothing construction class files of the Ann Arbor Adult Education
Department and from among recent graduates of home economics programs
in high schools, because the orientation of these former students to
education and clothing courses suggested a receptive sample.

Since this investigation was directed toward clothing services
courses on a post-high school level, Washtenaw Community College and
Eastern Michigan University were the two educational institutions
interviewed.

Letters stating the nature of the investigation and requesting
an appointment for an interview were sent in advance to the educational
institutions and to the employers (see Appendices F, G, H, and I).
These letters were followed up with telephone calls to arrange a time
for the interview.

Questionnaires for the selected group of women and prospective
students were accompanied by cover letters which explained the survey
and asked for the respondents' cooperation. One hundred thirteen
prospective students and one hundred eight of the selected group of

women responded.

IO

Method 21_Presentation

 

The compiled information was based on the results of the
data tabulation. The findings were summarized into four categories:

a) Prospective employment opportunities in retail

establishments.

b) Self-employment opportunities.

c) Interest in learning clothing services skills for

gainful employment or use of family and self.

d) Availability of clothing services courses In post-

high school institutions in the Ann Arbor area.

Opinions and ideas of representatives of educational institu-
tions and employers were analyzed to determine opportunities for
education and for employment in the field of clothing services.
Responses of prospective students were analyzed to determine the
degree of interest in course offerings in clothing services. Inform-

ation was compiled into tables for ease in visual review.

CHAPTER III

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES IN CLOTHING SERVICES

Employment Opportunities in_Retail
Readyeto-wear Stores

 

 

One of the main objectives of the study was to determine the
extent to which opportunities in clothing services exist In Ann Arbor.
Interviews with prospective employers Indicated that alteration
departments are Shorthanded. There is a need at present for three
full-time and several part-time employees in alteration workrooms.

Stores with projected expansion plans foresee a greater need in the
future. Several employers who have sufficient help at the present

time stated that competent help is difficult to find when needed. One
employer stated that he waited three months to hire a skilled seam-
stress. Only eleven or two-thirds of the employers felt that the quality
of workmanship performed by present employers satisfies the standards

of the store.

Five or onenthird of the employers indicated they would be willing
to finance courses which would enable their employees to upgrade
their skills if the tuition for the courses was reasonable.

Three employers paid private seamstresses to alter garments
in their homes for these reasons:

a) Skilled help is not readily available in this area.

b) Store space is not adequate to provide for an alteration

workroom.

l2
c) A workroom is too expensive to set up and maintain.
d) Communication is difficult since many alteration workers
are foreign born.
e) Seamstresses cannot handle fittings because of a
language barrier.

f) Alteration workrooms do not support themselves.
Self-employment Opportunities

The survey of a selected group of women indicated a definite
market in custom clothing construction and alteration services if
seamstresses with a high degree of skill were available in the area
(see Appendix A). A large number of women customers in this sample
(89 per cent) required alteration services at some time but were often
dissatisfied with the quality of workmanship performed on garments.

TABLE l.-—Responses of the selected group of women regarding demand
for clothing services and satisfaction with the workmanship rendered

._‘ -:
1 t

Responses”

 

Demand and Satisfaction Always Often Sometimes Never
N a: N , 53 N % N %
Require alterations on
ready-to-wear l7 I6 30 28 49 45 l2 II
Satisfaction with quality 24 22 3| 29 32 3O 4 4

 

*IO8 responses

l3
Women in this sample indicated they would avail themselves
of clothing services more often if the quality of services were
improved.

TABLE 2.-—Responses of the selected group of women concerning the
need for clothing services courses

 

 

Need for Clothing Services Courses Responses
Yes No

% %

Feel a need exists for upgrading
clothing services skills 53 47

Would hire competent clothing services
employees more often if they were
available 73 27

 

Salaries and Benefits Offered :9 Employees

 

Results of a survey of salaries and benefits offered by the
stores to potential employees, and prices the selected group of women
are willing to pay for clothing services were compared with employee
estimates of fair salaries to reveal possible causes of interest, or
lack of interest, in working in clothing services occupations.

Prices which the selected group of women are willing to pay
for clothing services are considerably higher than wages regarded as
fair by the sample of potential students. A well-paid market exists
for self-employed seamstresses who possess a high degree of skill.

The rate of $2.00 per hour for fitters and $l.75 per hour

for seamstresses is the current average wage that employees in

l4
clothing services occupations can expect in Ann Arbor. Wages
varied greatly between stores, ranging from $l.25 to $2.25 per hour.
Two stores pay a straight salary based unpon a 38-hour week. The
writer converted these figures into an hourly rate for clarification
and to obtain the rate included In the report.
TABLE 3.--Comparison of the opinions of potential students and

selected group of women regarding wages considered desirable with
wages paid by employers in Ann Arbor for clothing services positions

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clothing Services Average Hourly Wages
Positions Opinions of Wages Paid By
Potential Selected Group Employers
Students of Women
Fitter $2;00 $ -- ‘ $2.00
Alteration seamstress 2.20 3.50 I.75
Dressmakef 2.70 3.50 --

 

Employee benefits which are presently in effect compare
favorably with the benefits desired by the potential group of students,
with the exception of profit-sharing and sick leave. In the case
of part-time employees, benefits include only work breaks and discount
on merchandise. Some employers did not wish to make a definite commit-
ment about sick leave; they reported that store policy did not provide
sick leave for part-time employees but that sick leave might be
extended, to a limited extent, to deserving employees at the discretion

of the employer.

I5

TABLE 4.--Responses of potential students and employers concerning
employee benefits

 

 

 

Responses*

Employee Benefits Desired by Potential Offered by
Students Employers

N S N ' it
Bonus 30 27 3 20
Hospitalization 66 55 IO 60
Life Insurance 36 32 7 40
Paid Vacation 62 55 I2 72
Sick Leave 62 55 7 40
Discount on Merchandise 42 37 l2 72
Work Breaks 42 37 8 50
Profit Sharing 30 27 0
r - Free Parking 0 3 20

 

ultiple responses°5f II3 potentTEl students and I7 employees

Price Ranges for Clothing Services

 

Analysis of responses regarding price ranges for clothing
services disclosed that potential students do not anticipate as high
a financial gain from the performance of clothing services as the
selected group of women are willing to pay. One reason why potential
students are not highly motivated to enter the field of clothing
services may be a lack of information about the value of clothing

services and the possible financial gain. The women in this sample,

I6

who hire seamstresses to sew or alter clothing, apparently are
willing to pay a fair price for quality workmanship.

Retail ready—to-wear stores offered clothing services at
a much lower rate than considered fair by the selected group of
women and potential students. Several employers stated that
customers are reluctant to pay alteration charges on a ready—made
garment; therefore prices are kept to a minimum. Employers feel
that, in some cases, alteration charges make the difference between
gaining or losing a sale. ‘Low rates charged by retail establishments

may explain, in part, why alteration workrooms rarely show a profit.

I7

TABLE 5.--Comparison of the opinions of the selected group of women,
potential students, and employers regarding fair prices for clothing

 

 

 

services
Opinions
Clothing Price Range Selected Potential Employers
Services for Services Group of Students
Women
N i N x N 1

 

 

Tailoring a woman's S 75- 99 50 46 IO 49

lined suit IOO-l49 44 4| IO 49
ISO-200 I4 I3 2 2
Sewing a lined, 25- 49 79 73 97 86
sleeveless sheath 50- 69 28 26 I6 I4
70-IOO I I 0
Sewing an unlined, 7- I0 57 62 99 88
straight skirt II- I5 25 23 l4 l2
I6- 25 I6 I5 0
Sewing a lined, IO- I4 54 - 50 87 77
straight skirt I5- l9 35 32 26 23
20- 30 I9 I8 0
Shortening a bodice 3- 4 68 63 72 ‘ 52 I7 I00
at the waist (no 5- 9 39 35 42 33 0
zipper) l0- I5 I I 0' 0.
Hemming a straight 2- 3 3' 75 97 35 I7 I00
skirt (unlined) 4- 5 24 22 I6 I4 0
5- 3 3 3 O 3 O
Hemming a straight 3- 4 55 5' 5' 54 8 50
skirt (lined) 5- 7 37 34 52 46 8 50
8- 9 5 5 0 0
Re lacin a zi er 2- 3 8' 75 5' 54 '7 '00
p 9 pp 4- 5 2| 20 52 46 O
7- IO 5 5 0 O
Re-setting sleeves 5- 7 52 57 5' 45 '7 '00
In a lined garment 8- l2 30 28 5' 45 0
I3- 20 I6 I5 II IO 0
m‘bei I I [.9 sleeves 3.. 5 78 72 73 65 I7 _ I 00
In unlined Qafmgnf 5- IO 24 22 4O 35 0

Il- ls; 6 6 0 0

I8

Workroom Operations ip_Retail Ready-to-wear Stores

 

 

One employer suggested a coordinated effort among retail
stores to organize and patronize a workroom which would perform
alteration services for all stores. Seamstresses would develop
expertise in special phases of alteration work through repeated
performance. A uniform pay scale could be established which would
allow for periodic raises commensurate with the abilities and
seniority of employees. The employer felt this system would result
in more efficient, less expensive alterations and fewer responsibilities
for store managers.

Two members of chain retail establishments transport clothes
into a Detroit workroom which serves all the stores in the chain.
Reasons given for this procedure were:

a) Less expensive.

b) More efficient.

0) Fewer problems in obtaining skilled help in a large,

metropolitan area.
One workroom manager delegates the work to seamstresses. Three
employers send alteration work out to private seamstresses who are
paid by the piece for clothing services. One owner of a small shOp
performs the necessary alterations herself, at no charge to the
customer. Several employers felt that a qualified fitter who Is able

to establish good rapport and to communicate freely with the customer,

l9
as well as the seamstresses in the workroom, is invaluable to the
store. They felt that such a person is important in helping to
sell a garment as well as in establishing a reputation for fine

service.

Summary

Prices the selected group of women indicated they are
willing to pay for clothing services Indicate that financial gain
from the performance of these services on a self-employed basis is
greater than potential students have estimated. In retail ready-to-
wear stores fitters' salaries coincide with salary expectations of
potential students. However, salaries paid to alteration seamstresses
fall below the estimates of potential students.

Employers and the selected group of women feel a definite

need for upgrading skills presently available in the Ann Arbor area.

Several employers indicated that they would be willing to increase
salaries of employees if a proportionate increase in skill was
demonstrated.

Stores in the sample employ different methods of handling
alterations. Two members of chain retail establishments transport
clothes into Detroit alteration workrooms; the majority take care of
clothing services on the premises; three retailers send clothes to

homes of local seamstresses to be altered.

CHAPTER IV

INTEREST IN COURSES INVOLVING CLOTHING

SERVICES SKILLS

Interest pf_Potential Students

 

One of the elements necessary for a vocational training
program is that a group of people have the need or desire to acquire
the specialized training.I In this study the need or desire for
knowledge was categorized as follows:

a) To secure employment.

b) For the use of self and family.

One hundred one (85 per cent) of the potential student group
indicated that they would use acquired knowledge to sew for themselves
and their families; seventeen (I5 per cent) would use the knowledge to
seek employment.

Previous training in clothing construction skills was indicated
by 93 per cent of the sample of potential students. Only l6 per cent
of this group felt qualified to accept positions requiring clothing
construction skills and 9i per cent expressed a desire to enroll in

clothing services courses. Several were concerned about the cost of

 

'Houle, pp, cit., p. IO4.

20

6

2|
the course and a few mentioned that they could take advantage of
such a course only if it coincided with homemaking and family
activities scheduled during the day. Table 6 shows answers of
potential students to questions regarding previous training and
interest in clothing services courses.

TABLE 6.--Responses of prospective students regarding previous training
and interest in clothing services courses

 

 

 

Previous Training and Interest Responses*
Yes No
N % N.%
Have had training in clothing construction
skills I04 93 8 7
Feel competent to qualify for positions
requiring clothing construction skills '8 '6 95 84
Interest in acquiring clothing
construction skills '04 92 9 8
Would enroll in courses if such were
offered in the Ann Arbor area '03 9' '0 9

Would use acquired knowledge in
seeking employment I7 IS 96 85

Would use acquired knowledge for self
and/or family '0' 89 '2 "
*Multiple responses of Il5 prospective students
In indicating preferences for the courses listed in the
questionnaire, the group of potential students selected from one to

three of the courses. The highest preference, 88 per cent, was shown

for the clothing construction course; there was 5| per cent preference

22
shown for the alteration course, and 40 per cent for a course in

pattern making (see Table 7).

TABLE 7.--Responses of potential students indicating preferences in
clothing services courses

 

 

 

Courses Responses*
N %
Clothing Construction 99 88
Alterations 58 5|
Pattern Making 45 40

 

*Multiple reSponses of ll5 potential students

Interest pf_Employers

Employers expressed the following opinions regarding the
adoption of clothing services courses into curricula of educational
institutions in the Ann Arbor area:

a) Training would be helpful and necessary in order to
upgrade salaries and status of persons employed in
alteration departments.

b) Skilled help would add to the prestige of the store
in terms of excellence of service.

Two employers expressed willingness to cooperate with a

teacher who might wish to set up courses in clothing services.
Observation of the workroom operation would be necessary. Methods

considered efficient, in the teacher's opinion, could be adopted ‘

23
into a course of study.
Three employers stated that they would consider serving on
an advisory committee which would meet with school personnel to
discuss the feasibility of including such courses in school curricula

in the interests of the community.

Summary

Degree of interest in clothing services courses among the
sample of potential students Is high. Acquired knowledge would be
used for themselves and their families by 85 per cent of the sample.
Employment would be sought by l5 per cent of the sample.

Employers felt that an upgrading of skills would be necessary
in order to make salary increases possible in clothing services
occupations. Several stated that they would be willing to cooperate
in a community-oriented course in clothing services by allowing a
teacher who is experienced in clothing services to observe the work-
room operation for the purpose of planning an effective course in

clothing services.

CHAPTER V

AVAILABILITY OF CLOTHING SERVICES COURSES

Criteria Used ip_SeIection pf_Courses

 

Representatives of the two educational institutions inter-
viewed explained school policies regarding the criteria used In
the adoptlon of new courses into the existing curriculum.

Eastern Michigan University does not offer courses In the
field of clothing services which are specifically designed for wage-
earning. The curriculum does include courses in clothing construction,
pattern design and retailing, which prepare students for occupations
in these areas upon completion of a four year program. One of the
criteria used in the adoption of new courses into the curriculum is
that they must fit into a regular four year program of study.

Washtenaw Community College does not offer courses in clothing
services at the present time. Criteria used in the selection of courses
to include In the curriculum are:

a) A balance between vocational and technical programs.

b) A balance of one year programs and two year programs.

c) Training opportunities offered to both sexes.

d) Focus upon opportunities which the non-white, as well as

the white, population can move into and benefit from.

24

25
e) Justification for cost of programs based on course
offerings which accommodate as many people as possible
and on course offerings which accommodate a limited

number of people in badly needed programs.

Summary

Neither of the two educational institutions offers courses
in clothing service§,which prepare students for employment. One
institution would reguire such courses to be part of a four year
program. Among criteria used in selection of courses to include
in the curriculum of the other educational institution are the cost
of the program, a balpnce between technical and vocational programs,

and training opportunities for both sexes and for the white and non-

white population.

CHAPTER VI

SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS

Summary

Recent legislation supporting vocational education prompted
this study of the employment opportunities in clothing services in
the Ann Arbor area.

In addition to evaluating employment opportunities, Inquiries
were made to determine if training facilities are available to
prospective students of clothing services courses. Finally, an effort
was made to determine If prospective students are interested in en-
rolling In courses in clothing services.

A structured interview schedule was administered to l7
employers and 2 representatives of educational institutions and question-
naires were mailed to I90 potential students and I90 selected women.

The interview schedule for employers dealt with employment
opportunities for persons trained in clothing services skills, and
with salaries and benefits offered to employees. The Interview schedule
for educational institutions investigated the possibilities for con-
sideration of adding clothing services courses to the curricula of
their schools. Questionnaires sent to potential students were designed

to determine their interest in clothing services courses and opinions

26

27
regarding wages and benefits. Finally, the questionnaires sent to
a selected group of women investigated a potential market for
self-employed seamstresses.

Data collected revealed that potential students are interested
in availing themselves of clothing services courses mainly to use the
acquired knowledge for their families and themselves. Fifteen per
cent of this group would use the acquired knowledge to seek employment.
Employers and the selected group of women feel a need exists for up-
grading clothing services skills.

Potential students underestimated the financial gain in
clothing services occupations when salary estimates made by these
women were compared with prices the selected group of women were
willing to pay for these services. Salaries offered to fitters in
retail ready-to-wear establishments coincide with salary expectations
of potential students. However, salaries paid to alteration seamstresses
fall below the estimate of potential students.

Employers were cooperative in answering questions and ventured
several valuable suggestions for designing a course In clothing services
to be used in schools. Two employers were willing to have an observer
in their workrooms to study alteration methods used for adoption into
a course of study and to have constructive criticism of methods and
facilities.

Problems encountered in maintaining an alteration workroom
were identified by several employers as follows:

a) Scarcity of skilled help.

28

b) Inadequate facilities.

c) High cost of maintaining an alteration workroom.

Neither of the two educational institutions surveyed In this
study offers courses in clothing services which are designed specifically
to prepare students for employment. One representative of an educational
institution stated that any new course would have to fit into a regular
four year program. The representative of the other educational Insti-
tution stated that several criteria are used. An effort Is made to
achieve a balance between vocational and technical programs, and between
one year programs and two year programs. Training opportunities for
both sexes, and for the white and non-white population should be
emphasized. The importance of a proposed course should justify the

cost of including it In the curriculum.

Recommendations

 

This investigation of employment opportunities in clothing
services in Ann Arbor is an initial effort to determine the need for
clothing services courses In educational institutions in the Ann Arbor
area.

The writer hopes that this report can serve as an Initial step
in launching and initiating clothing services courses into the curricula
of the educational institutions involved. Such courses would provide
a vocational outlet for women; because the major concentration in

vocational education has been on the male sex, an important segment of

29
the population has been overlooked.

Replication of this study in other areas of Washtenaw County
utilizing the instruments developed, would yield more conclusive
evidence on a broader scale.

A similar study in other areas of the state could reveal a
potential student population in need of clothing services courses.

A resource guide could be developed, through the cooperative
effort of educators who are engaged in teaching clothing services
courses, for the use of teachers who are planning courses in clothing
services. The resource guide might be incorporated into a course of
study for all phases of clothing services, from which teachers could
choose the concepts that relate to the job opportunity profile of the

community in which they work.

APPENDIX A

QUESTIONNAIRE FOR SELECTED GROUP OF WOMEN

Instructions:
Read each question carefully.

In the space provided, check the answer which best expresses your
opinion or answers the question most accurately.

 

I. Do you require alteration services when you purchase ready-to-wear
clothing?

always
often
sometimes
never

”-0“.

 

2. Are you satisfied with the quality of workmanship in the alteration
of ready-to-wear?

always
often
sometimes
never

 

3. Do you feel that most fitters and seamstresses who have performed
clothing services for you need additional training?

yes
no

4. If you have some of your clothing custom made, to what extent do
you avail yourself of clothing construction services?

I to 3 garments per year
4 to 6 garments per year
7 to IO garments per year

5. Would you avail yourself of clothing construction services more
often If competent services were available?

yes
no

6. Do you have your clothing custom made?

always
often
sometimes
never

3|

32

7. Prices charged In Ann Arbor for dressmaking and alterations on a wool
garment are listed in three columns showing a range of prices for

these services.

Please check the price range you

would be willing

to pay for each service rendered on a wool garment.

Clothing Constructi

(not including fabric)

 

on Price Ranges for Services

 

tailoring a woman's lined suit $75-99 $IOO-I49 $I50-200
sewing a lined, sleeveless sheath 25-49-_— 50- 69_—_ 70-IOO_-_
sewing a Iined, straight skirt lO-l4— l5- I9“— 20- 30"”
sewing an unlined, straight skirt 7-l0: ll- l5: I5- 25:
Alterations

(not including cost of notions)

shortening a bodice at the waist

(no zipper) 3- 4 5- 9L___ l0- l5____
hemming a straight skirt (unlined) 2- 3: 4- 5___ 6- 8____
hemming a straight skirt (lined) 3- 4 5- 7 6- 8
replacing a zipper 2- 3‘— 4- 6: 7- I0:
re-setting sleeves in lined garment 5- 7_‘— 8- l2___ l3- 20___
re-setting sleeves In unlined garment 3- 5: 6- l0_ ll- I5____

8. What would you

$I.5O to $I.99
2.00 to 2.99
3.00 to 3.99

consider a fair hourly wage to pay

per hour
per hour
per hour

 

 

 

4.00 or more per hour

 

a skilled seamstress?

APPENDIX B

QUESTIONNAIRE FOR PERSONS INTERESTED IN
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION COURSES

Instructions:

Read each question carefully.

In the space provided, check the answer which best expresses your opinion or
answers the question most accurately.

 

 

Have you ever had training in clothing construction skills?

yes
no

If Yes, what kind?

 

Do you possess sufficient competency in clothing construction techniques
to qualify for a position in this field?

yes
no

Are you interested in acquiring skills in clothing construction?

yes
no

If courses in clothing services skills were offered in the Ann Arbor area,
would you enroll In them?

yes
no

If your answer to the above question is Yes, please check the course or
courses in which you would be interested.

alterations
clothing construction
pattern making

 

Would you use the knowledge and skills acquired in these courses in
seeking employment?

yes
no

Do you sew and alter clothes for yourself and your family?

 

Self Family Other
yes yes yes
no no no

34

35

Would you use the knowledge and skills acquired In these courses for

yourself and your family?

Self Family

 

yes yes
no no

What would you consider a fair wage in the following categories?'

fitter
alteration seamstress
dressmaker

 

 

 

Please check the employee benefits important to you.

.<

as

bonus

hospitalization

life insurance

paid vacation

sick leave

discount on merchandise
work breaks

profit sharing

other

2

IIIIIIII

If you plan to use the knowledge and skills acquired in clothing
services courses for self-employment, what would you consider a
fair price for the following services?

Clothing Construction Price Ranges for Services

 

(not including fabric)

Other

yes
no

tailoring a woman's lined suit $75-99 $IOO-l49 $l50-200
sewing a Iined, sleeveless sheath 25-49 50- 69 70-IOO

sewing a lined, straight skirt IO-l4 l5- I9 20- 3O
sewing an unlined, straight skirt 7-lO Il- l5 l5- 25

Alterations

 

(not including cost of notions)

shortening a bodice at the waist
(no zipper) 3-
hemming a straight skirt (unlined) 2-
hemming a straight skirt (lined) 3-
replacing a zipper 2-
re-setting sleeves in lined garment 5-
re-setting sleeves in unlined

garment 3-

I3-

IO- I5

Iml

IO
IO
20

II- l5__

APPENDIX C

EMPLOYERS INTERVIEW SCHEDULE

Name of store: Name of interviewee:

Address: ' Date:

Type of store:

 

How many persons do you employ in your alteration department?

fitters
seamstresses
other

 

Would you hire more skilled alteration workers if they were available?

yes
no

 

Have your fitters and seamstresses taken courses or apprentice
training to prepare them for their occupations?

yes
no

Does the performance of the fitters and seamstresses satisfy the
standards of your store?

always
often
sometimes
never

 

Would you encourage your employees to take courses in clothing services
in order to upgrade their skills if such courses were available in the
Ann Arbor area?

yes
no

Would you be willing to absorb the cost of fees for such courses?

yes
no

Approximately how much of the alteration work which needs to be done
for customers Is provided by your alteration department?

one-third
two-thirds
all

 

I

37

38

What wages do you pay in the following categories?

fitter

alteration seamstress

Would you be willing to pay more if employees were more skilled?
yes

no

Do you provide the following employee benefits?
Yes No

bonus

hospitalization

life insurance

paid vacation

sick leave

discount on merchandise
work breaks

profit sharing

other

 

 

 

 

 

Are advancement opportunities possible in these categories?

Yes No
fitters
seamstresses

 

 

 

If Yes, in what way?

 

What prices do you charge your customers for the following services

on wool garments?

shortening bodice at the waist (no zipper)
replacing a zipper

hemming a straight skirt (lined)

hemming a straight skirt (unlined)
resetting sleeves in lined garments
resetting sleeves in unlined garments

IIIIII

APPENDIX D

INTERVIEW SCHEDULE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS

Name of school: Name of interviewee:

Address: Date:

 

I. Does your vocational program offer courses that deal with clothing
services?

yes
no

 

2. If your answer is Yes, which of the following are included?

clothing design
clothing construction
fitting and alterations
other

3. Are any of these courses planned to train persons for gainful
employment?

yes
no

4. If your answer to question I is No, would you consider adding any of
these courses to your curriculum if a proven need in your community
was established?

yes
no

 

If Yes, please list courses

5. When vocational courses are introduced into the curriculum at your
school, what criteria are used in selecting them?

40

APPENDIX E

List p:_Copperating Retail Establishments

 

Collins Shop

Goodyear's Department Store
Grahm's Suburban Casuals
Hartman's, Inc.

Hutzel Shops
Hughes-Hatcher-Sufferin
Jacobson's

Kay Baum

Kay-Jay Shop

Kessel's Fashion Shop
Lormarlyn Bridal Shop
Marilyn Shoppe

Marti Walker

Saks Fifth Avenue
Village Store

Wagner's Clothing

Winkleman Brothers Apparel, Inc.

42

APPENDIX F

May l2, I967

Dear Madam:

In an effort to determine the need for personnel trained in clothing
construction and alteration skills, I have undertaken a study of
current employment opportunities in Ann Arbor. The investigation is
part of my master's degree program in Textiles and Clothing at Michigan
State University.

You have been selected to assist in this study because, as a member of
the community, you may wish to avail yourself of clothing services.
The results should be of value to you in the future in securing

more efficient and higher quality clothing services.

The purposes of the attached questionnaire are to:

I) determine the extent to which you might employ
individuals in clothing service occupations.

2) gather Information that educational institutions
in the Ann Arbor area will be able to use in
determining the need for clothing service courses.

Will you please answer each question in the questionnaire and return
in the enclosed, self-addressed envelope at your earliest convenience?
Your replies will be kept confidential.

I thank you for your cooperation.

Sincerely,

9% We

(Mrs.) Jane Kulpinski

JK/ab

44

APPENDIX G

May 5, I967

Dear Madam:

The need for persons trained In clothing construction and alteration
skills has prompted this study of current employment opportunities

in Ann Arbor. The investigation is part of my master's degree program
in Textiles and Clothing at Michigan State University.

As a member of the community who might be interested in availing
herself of such courses, your help in compiling information dealing
with clothing service courses will be appreciated. The results of
this investigation should be of value to you, as a potential student,
and to the business and educational institutions In your community.

The purposes of the attached questionnaire are to:

I) determine if you are interested in taking courses
In clothing construction which would prepare you
for gainful employment in clothing construction and
alterations.

2) determine if you are interested in taking courses In
clothing construction for personal and family use.

3) gather information that educational institutions in
the Ann Arbor area will be able to use in determining
the need for clothing service courses.

Will you please answer each question In the questionnaire and return
in the enclosed, self-addressed envelope at your earliest convenience?
Your replies will be kept confidential.

I thank you for your cooperation.

Sincerely,

(Mrs.) Jane Kulpinski

46

APPENDIX H

May I9, I967

Dear Sir:

The need for personnel trained in clothing construction and alteration
skills has prompted this study of current employment opportunities In
Ann Arbor. The investigation is part of my master's degree program In
Textiles and Clothing at Michigan State University.

As an influential member of the business community in Ann Arbor, your
help in compiling information dealing with clothing service opportunities
will be appreciated. The results of this investigation should be of

value to you, as an employer, and to your employees and potential
employees In upgrading clothing construction and alteration skills.

This study is designed to:

I) determine employment opportunities In clothing
construction and alterations in Ann Arbor.

2) gather Information to present to educational
Institutions in the Ann Arbor area regarding the
need for clothing services courses.
I would like to have a conference with you during the week of June I2,
at a convenient time for you. May I contact you for an appointment in
a few days?
I thank you for your cooperation and look forward to our meeting.

Sincerely,

(Mrs.) Jane Kulpinski

48

VI

ml

APPENDIX I

June 8, I967

Dear

The need for persons trained in clothing construction and alteration
skills has prompted this study of current employment opportunities
in Ann Arbor.

As the director of the vocational education program in your school, your

help in compiling information dealing with clothing service courses will

be appreciated. The results of this investigation should be of value to

you, as an educator, and to persons in the community who wish to train or
upgrade their skills in clothing construction and alterations.

This study Is designed to determine if curriculum adjustments or additions
could be made to provide persons in the Ann Arbor area with the necessary
training in clothing services to qualify them to take advantage of existing
employment opportunities in the community. The investigation is a part of
my master's degree program In Textiles and Clothing at Michigan State
University.

I would like to have a conference with you during the week of June l2, at
a convenient time for you. I will contact you for an appointment.

I am looking forward to talking with you about a clothing service course
in your institution. '

Sincerely,

(Mrs.) Jane Kulpinski

50

 

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