CLOTMNG REFERENCES AND BUYING PRACTICES OF FIFTY PRESHMEN AND FIFTY SENIOR GfiRLS OF SERVITE MGM SCHOOL DETROH’, MECHIGAN Thai: fiat m. Doom of M. A. MlCHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY Sister Mary Ambrose, Sitzmann, O. S.‘ M. 1956 LIBRARY Michigan State University # NT": ”'71.?! STATE UNIVERSITY PLACE IN RETURN Box to remove this checkout from your record. To AVOID FINES return on or before date due. MAY BE RECALLED with earlier due date if requested. DATE DUE DATE DUE DATE DUE 2/05 mm swim—Ins“ momma marmmss mm mm manor: or mm mm AND um sexton em: or smvm axon sorrow. nmotr. mcutmu By Slater Mary Amhroee, Sitmnn. 0.8.M. An Abetraet Submitted to the School for Advanced Graduate Studiee of Michigan State Univereity of Agriculture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requiremente {or the degree or Maeter of Arte Department of Textilee. Clothing and Related Arte Auguet, 8956 ApprovedQZ/fljc é L/b) AMA 1v»! ammo mourners AND BUYING mortars or run mm»: AND rim semen cm or senvxrr. men scnoot. nmoxr. utcnmm The purpoee of thie eurvey’wne to secure specific in- formation on purchaeing practicea and teetora influencing cheicee of clothing or one hundred high echool girle. in:ormation.uae eought hy'meane or e queetienneire and pereonel interview to determine the eociooeconomic backgreund of the etudente; their independence in clothing cheicee and the evaluation of etyle. color, and deeign or dreeeee typical of thoee worn hy'teenpage girle. .An in- ventory at their preeent wardrohee nae made to determine the number and kind or garmente they owned and in what eeye the wardrobee or the treehmen and eenier girle dit- rered. Reeponeee on thetype a: garment preferred for echool wear indicated that the majority'preterred the re- quired echool uniform. .Although the wearing of the uniform file a requirement, they did not coneider it a violation of their independence in choice. There were no eigniiicant differencee between the treehmen and eenior girle in their etated preferencee in etyle. color, or deeign. .Although the majority or the girle felt their werdrohee comparable to thoee of their girl friende, more freehmen than eenior girle felt that they'had fewer and leee expeneive clothee than their peere. Separatee were favored by the ireehmen girle for practically all ectivitiee. Seniore preferred eeeatere and ekirte for work. euite and dreeeee for church and aocial activitiea. Analyeie of their buying practicee revealed that approximately‘eightybfive of the one hundred girle puro cheeed all of their clothing readywmade. in their eelectien of clothing, freehnen girle were influenced hy’eindcw diepieye, parente, and by the clothing ef their girl friende. The aenier girie were more influenced by’nagaainee and win» doe dieplaye. Purchaeee were meet frequently made in neighborhood etoree_rather than in the downtown department etoree. Ceeh purchaeee were made for minor itena of apparel while both the charge account and laybaaay'nethod of payment were need for purchaeea of naJor itene ae coete, dreeeee. and euite. Parente of the freshmen girle paid for all er part of their clothing while about one-half of the eenior girle accepted full financial reeponeihility’for their clothing expendituree. . \ in general, the findinge in thie eurvey’cenfermed te findinge of previoue etudiee of clothing precticee of teensage girle. CLOTHING PREFERENCES.AND BUYIHG PRACTICES O? FIFTY'FRESHMEfltAND PEFTY'SENIOR GIRLS OF SERVTTE HIGH SCHOOL, DETROIT. MICHIGAN BY SISTER non? mimosa, 5112mm, 0.5.1.1. .A THESIS Submitted to the School for.Advanced Graduate Studiee of uichigan State Univereity'ofrAgricuiture and Applied Science in partial fulfillment of the requiremente for the degree of EASTER OF.ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related.Arte August. 1956 newtsoornm The writer wishes to express her appreciation to: Miss Hazel B. Strehan, Head of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arte. for her guidance, interest and kindness throughout the writing of this thesis. Students of servite High school who so generously cooperated in providing data for this study. Chapter I. 11. | 11!. V3 V1. TABLE OF‘CONTENTS introduction.....u.......................... RIVEO"01'LEECPIEETCeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee MGthOdS and PfOCCdHPCDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I Diecueeion and interpretetions.............. Personal Deta............................... Clothing Preferences........................ Preferencee for Readybto-wear............... Buying Practices............................ lnventony................................... Summary;.................................... Conclusions................................. Bibiiography................................ .nppendix.At Personal Deta.................. .Appendix Bi Questionnaire on Clothing - Preferencea and Buying ‘ PPIGEACCCeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee App‘fld!‘ CI IRWHEOWeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee-e ii Page 1 h 19 22 22 31 hi S9 68 87 9i 93 98 102 116 Table 1. 11., 1111 TV. V; Vie V11. V111. 1X. X1. _X11. X111. XV. m. m. xvm. xxx. XX. IABLES Distribution of.Ages...o........o............e Employment of Fathere.............o........... Employment of Mothera.................1....... student Employment............................ Family’Composition............................ Color and Design Choices...................... Suitability'of Garments for Various Occasions. Description of Ten Dresses Used in Pfthfcnc. Studyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Summary of Preferences........................ Buying Practices.............................. Garments Purchased Readybwado................. Stores from which Clothing in Purchaeed....... Sources of influence on Clothing Choiceecuao-o Price Range for chnquc Dressesfc-oo-cooo-aof Comparison of Clothing with that of 808‘ Girl PTECRdeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee inventory'of‘Winter c0.t.eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelee inventory'of Mid-Season Coate................. inventory 0! Sport JDGROEDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee inventory 0’ Cardigan SWMEtOTIeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Page 22 23 2h 25 28 37 39 ha 53 60 61 62 6h 66 67 71 72 73 7h inventory or RtiflCOltDeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 7S Inventory'of $u1t'eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee iii 76 XXIIe XXIII. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. )‘CCVIIe XXV111. XXIX. Inventory of Wool Dresses..."................ inventory of Cotton Dreeoce................... Inventory of Synthetic Dresses................ inventory of Cotton Blouees................... inventory of Synthetic Blouses................ inventory of Cotton Skirts.................... inventory of Wool Skirts".......-............. inventory of Sweatere......................... Inventory Of pres! shoeseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee iv 77 78 79 80 81 33 ~85 86 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION We are all aware that the high school girl of today is socially different from the adolescent girl of the early 20th century. Her social activities are more numerous and different from those of her mother because of her participa- tion in varied activities. Today teen-age groups are recog- nised as a new consumer-buyer group whose preferences and buying practices are significantly different from adults. Clothing production and distribution agencies recognise this new market. Many teen-age girls today are employed on a part-time basis and frequently work fulletime during the summer months. They have greater independence in the se- lection of the type and quantity of clothing they wear and they also have more economic independence than their mothers had at the same age. Today's market offers such an array of new materials that we want to develop in our students an awareness of the changing consumer~buyer market from which their selection is to be made so that they will be able to evaluate the textile products in terms of relative merits and limitations. Therefore this present study will be an investigation of the clothing preferences and buying practices of a limited teen-age group in order to gain information that will serve as a basis of future instruction in giving students those 2 practical skills and knowledge which will enable them to form correct Judgments in choosing the clothing items they pur- ChECBe ‘ A limited amount of social-psychological research has already been done on clothing preferences and buying practices. These studies indicate that teenoage girls vary in physical, social and emotional development and that their clothing preferences may, or in part, bear a direct relationship to their age, and also to their social and emotional maturity. This small study is designed to investigate differences in preferences and buying practices of two adolescent groups whose ages vary hy three years. ‘A selected group of one hundred girls attending a parochial school of Detroit will participate in this study. The specific objectives of this survey are: i. To gain pertinent information about the social and economic status of their families.A 2. To investigate whether or not the re- quirement of wearing a school uniform violates their concept of independence of choice, and if they'wouid like any modification in the type of school uni- form currently worn. 3. To investigate to what extent these one hundred girls have independence in the choice of their wearing apparel. h. .An analysis of each girl's evaluation of ten dresses, considered typical of those worn by her age group, will be studied for preferences in style, color, fabric, quality of workmanship, ease of care, and suitability for specific occasions. 5. To investigate clothing choices and buy- ing practices of freshmen and senior groups as revealed through an analysis of their individual wardrobe inventories. The primary value of this study will be for the inves- tigator who feels that she will secure a better understanding of her students. concept of individual clothing requirements and the problems inherent in their selection and purchase. it is also the hope of the investigator that this study may contribute in a small way to others who are con- cerned with clothing for teen-age girls. CHAPTER 11 REVIEW OF LITERATURE Co-ordination and versatility are keynotes cf the fascinating fashion picture of the wardrobe of our teen- ager today. The develcpment of Judgment in analyzing clothing requirements and the development of skills in actual buying procedures are more significant than heretofore, because so much of the family's clothing is purchased ready-made. Modern ingenuity has produced such varied fabrics that Judg- ment of quality and choice of colors and finishes have be- come very complicated. .A review of literature reveals that more and more attention is being directed toward the study - of buying practices. Bayor and Wybourn states ”Clothing has many potential- ities for enriching our everyday living; it can help a person live more fully and effectively: but it also can cause un- happiness and frustration."1 ‘Several investigations indicate that for adolescents clothing assumes greater importance than it does for other age groups. Hurlock, who has made a study of adolescents, finds that the majority of those interviewed indicate that adolescence was the period of life in which they had been most strongly affected by the approval or disapproval of 1Bayer, Stephanie and wybourn, Marjory, Third Clothing and Textile Seminar, Journal 25 Home Economics, December, 1950, pe 803e others in regard to dress. Self confidence was increased by clothing most in adolescence. She also made the obsern vation that the adolescent is no longer 'satisfied with clothing that resembles the crowd.“ it must be made of equally good material, it must come from equally good stores, and it must be as expensive a wardrobe as that of the ado- lescent friend.2 Likewise, Silverman in her study of the attitudes and feelings of teenoage girls toward clothing as well as their actual practices in relation to clothing, concluded that desire for the approval of friends, desire for the internal satisfactions of feelings of poise, self-confidence and happiness, and belief in the advantages in vocational and social areas to be achieved from good clothing and an at- tractive appearance, were factors which influenced the choices of clothing and the attention to appearance on the part of a major portion of teennage girls.3 Margaret Warning in her study sought to determine if the clothing of the daughters is used in the same way as the clothing of the adult family members, that is, as a symbol which corresponds to the social class of the family. She 2Hurlock, Elizabeth, Adolescent Develo ment, New”York, McGrawbHill Book Co., l9h9. p. 137. 3Silverman S ‘ ‘ ' ylvia 5., Clothin and A. arance Their P cholooicnl In lication; for Teen-Ego Girls, Eontributions to Education No. $12, Hew‘YorE, fiureau of Publications, Teachers. College, Columbia University, l9h5, p. lho. 6 found that the number of garments owned by the girls, the individuals who selected the garments and the types of stores in which the purchases were made are not important -facts in themselves, but they'are indicative of the values and the attitudes which are responsible for the similarities in clothing behavior within one class and for the differences in behavior between social classes. The fact which is vitally important is that the social class members recognise that they belong to a social group and want to own and use clothes which give them the feeling of group solidarity because the lgarments are similar to the clothes worn by the other members of the social class. social class members want to follow the practices which they recognise as behavior acceptable to the other members of the social class to which they'belong. She concludes that clothing is more than an individual matter, that the clothing of the daughter is used by the family'to shoV'status and is therefore not the concern of one child alone. She found that purchasing practices, the .msttsr of independence in shopping, number of garments pre- ‘viously'owned by'anothsr person, the discarding of garments, and finally, the kinds and the amounts of social participa- tion differed in the various social classes and affected the clothing behavior of social class members.1 Tm lWarning, Mhrgaret, ”The implications of Social Class for Clothing Behaviors The Acquisition and Use of‘Apparel for Girls Seven, Eight, and Nine Years of Age in Three Social Classes in Des Moines, loss,” Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, Michigan State university, l956, p. l26. King, investigated the role of clothing in the family relationships in twenty-five selected families, and reported that clothing seemed to be of significantly greater impor- tance for the teen-age girls in these families than for any other age or sex group. The teen-age girls in her case studies were found to use clothing as protection from fear or ridicule, as a means of gaining social and adult status, and also for personal satisfaction. King's investigation further revealed that clothing gave teen-age girls a sense of personal satisfaction as well as social status if they were allowed to choose the clothing which they felt was in conformance with their group. Clothing frustrations, among the adolescent girls interviewed, stemmed from the imposi- tion of a standard of dress which was in conflict with the standard of their group.h ln the study conducted by Holmblade, she found that about a third of the pupils and a half of the mothers said that disagreements about clothes had taken place. it appears that conflicts arose between the mother and daughter because of differing opinions concerning which styles and colors were becoming to the daughter. ‘Another point of disagreement between mother and daughter was the fact that the mother thought the daughter's choices were too old for her. A.few uKing, Bernice, 9A Study of the Role of Clothing in the Family Relationships of Twenty-five Selected Families,” Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College, East Lansing, l9h9, p. llS. of the arguments reported were related to the cleaning and care of the garments.5 A.atudy made by Collar involving the questioning of high school girls about buying clothes indicated that most of the girls did not make long-time plans for their clothing but purchased things as they felt they needed them. She reported that over three-fourths of the pupils in her study said that they knew neither hOW’much money had been spent for their clothing from September to march nor.how much they could plan to Spend in the remainder of the school year.6 The question arises as to.whether high school pupils are allowed to select their own clothing. vanSyckle found the following patterns of participation in the purchases of clothing reported by the consumers whom she interviewed. For the children over 12 years of age. slightly over a fourth of the purchases were made by the parents alone, about half by the parents and child together, and somewhat under s 5iiolmblsde,.A. J.. 'A.Comparative Study of the Clothing .Area of the Secondary Homemaking Curriculum in s Selected Community and Related Beliefs and Practices of Families in that Community)“ Unpublished Doctoral Thesis, Michigan State College, 195A. p. 100. 6Collar, Ruth, 1A.$tudy of the Clothing Planning, Selecting and Buying Practices of Homemaking 1 Girls in Selected Urban Areas of Michigan,” Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan Stats College, East Lansing, p. 10h. fourth by the child alone.7 A.similar situation with respect to the increased proportion of older children who took responsibility for the buying of their clothing was presented by Silverman. Only one-tenth of the lB-year-olds reported selecting their own clothes while over two~thlrds of the lB-year-olds did so. However, three-fourths of the older girls sought their mothers. advice in making the selections.8 Richardson suggests that the persons involved in the purchase of a garment may'vsry with the type of garment. .About thrseofourths of the ninth-grads girls whom she studied reported having the hslp of their mothers in pur- chasing maJor items of apparel such as skirts, sweaters, and dresses. Most of the pupils purchased minor items, such as scarfs and blouses, by themselves.9 Data on this problem or adolescent independence in shopping was compiled in both of the studies by Cobb and Reid. Cobb found that sixty-one percent of the girls select their clothes with their mothers' help) thirtybtwo percent select their own clothes; while A; A ._ A 7van Syckle, Calla, flPractices Folio ed by Consumer in Buying Large Expenditure items of Clothing, Furniture and Equipment, Technical Bulletin No. Shh, East Lansing, Ago ricultural Experiment Station, Michigan State College, June, 1951, Pa 120 8 gRichardson, Marigene, "A Study of the Clothing Planning, Selecting and Buying Practices of Homemaking 1 Girls in Reimbursed Schools in Selected Areas," Unpublished Master‘s Problem, Michigan State College, East Lansing, 1953: P0 160 Silverman,‘22, cit., p. 59. 10 six percent have their clothes selected for them. She stated, 'lt is significant that the middle economic group ' and the middle educational group achieve the greatest in- dependence in selection of clothing . . . as age increases there is a marked tendency for girls to select their own clothing, as indicated by eighty-three percent at age eighteen,"10 Reid found that although many of the girls did not shop independently, ninety-three percent usually were present when clothes were bought for them.11 What influences the consumer in her purchasing? Nystrom says that the nature and extent of consumer demands are dependent upon the amount of income received, size and composition of the family, education of the homemaker and the wage earner, habits and customs of consumption, and the influence of fashion. He also states that changes in consumer demand are due to changes in purchasing power, improvements in the production of goods, changes in the - habits and customs, and changes in the kinds of work and ways of living.12 1OCobb, Nellie, "Some Factors influencing Clothin Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions of High School Girls gn Lee County High School, Auburn,.Aiabama, Unpublished Master's Thesis,.Alabama Polytechnic institute, Auburn, 1951, p. ’40. 11Reid, Doris Jean, 'A Study of the Clothing Practices of‘Urban High School Girls," Unpublished Master's hesis, Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Blacksburg, 1951, p. 26. 1alslystrom, Paul H., Economics 33. Retailing, New York, The Ronald Press Co., 19h9p PP. 21-§l. ll Brisco and Wingate emphasize the importance of reaching consumer demand through the use of appeal. Ad- vertising and salesmanship are important factors in arousing demand. They feel it is necessary to keep in mind that the woman customer is the most important person in retailing and that her decisions account for approximately ninety percent of the department-store sales.13 Stone, Form and Strahan maintain that the social climate of the shopping expedition influences the decision of the purchase. They divide shoppers into two groups: the "receptive" group includes honemakers who like to shop, who are influenced by window displays, who approach cloth- ing purchases with an uncertainty or vagueness concerning what they want to buy, who desire the support of shopping companions or that of sales clerks in arriving at a pura chase decision. The "insulated" group dislikes window shopping, avoids window displays, approaches clothing pur- chases with a certainty of what they want and excludes shopping companions and sales clerks from their purchase decision.“t Esther Thor and May Cowles found in their study that consumers lack knowledge of buying methods and thus are to h“ 4... l . 3Brisco, N. A. and Wingate, J. W., Retail Selling, New York, Prentice-Hall inc., l9h5, p. 8. mStone, Gregory P., Form, Wm. H., and Strshsn, Hazel B.‘ ”The Social Climate of Decision in Shopping for Clothes, Journalcfl‘flome Economics, February, l9Sh, p. 88. 12 blame for the many typeset unsatisfactory goods on the mar- ket. Consumers are ignorant or lack independent Judgment in selecting merchandise. They discuss a survcy'mado by Dosring and Eilingwood at Madison, Visconsin, to determine consumers' buying habits in the selection of dresses. One of the incestigators assumed the role of salesperson and observed and recorded the comments and reactions while pur- chasing or desiring to purchase dresses. 0! the two hundred customers observed, titty'purohasad a total of fifty dresses: thirtybnine paid cash, and credit sea extended to fourteen:- two paid a deposit on future delivery; On.an average, five ‘drsssss were tried on for each dress purchased. Nearly'onsv half of the customers had shopping companions. The time for each sale varied from.tivs minutes to two hours. Over once third of the customers stated the price they'wishcd to pay; The price asked accounted for refusal to purchase by fifteen of the two hundred fifty‘customsrs. Comments on style were made by'onoathlrdg one-fourth desired the latest fashion) sixtybfour were concerned with‘vorkmanshipx thirtsan sa- sninsd seam stitching in the garments: durability influenced nineteen; thirteen did not specify particular choice of material than asking to see garments. .Apparsntiy'customsrs wished garments suitable in color, lins.’and tit. Color was datinitsiy'statsd by l773 sixteen desired becomingnsss of line; and the tit or the garment concerned 11:. Twenty» firs refused to hay'bscanss alterations vars necessary» 13 This survey further indicates that price, style, quality, and personal suitability were the major factors in the se- lection of dresses by the consumers observed. Customers showed little interest in learning trade names for materials and colors.1 Dyer etetes that becomingness and suitability in clothing do not necessarily need to mean a greet expenditure of money. Selection does take time and energy it desirable goods are to be obtained. Four points are to be considered in the selection and purchase of clothing: social status, occasion for which the garment is to be used, age, and type or person for whom the garment is secured. "Right dress is, therefore, that which is fit for the station in lite, and for the work to be done in it; is graceful, becoming, durable, healthful, and finally that which is comfortable.'16 One or the decisions people must make when they buy clothes is where they will do their shopping; whether they *wlll patronize local stores, making shopping trips out or town, or order clothes by mail; whether they will make their purchases in department stores or specialty shops. .A fur- ther consideration is whether or not they will plan to buy garments at sale prices. The evidence concerning people's 15Thor, Esther and Coulee, M. D., ”How Women Select Dresses,‘l Journal‘2£,Home Economics, December, l9h3, pp. 573'576e l6 ' Dyer Elisabeth Zextile Fabrics Chicago Houghton Mitflln Co., 39bit. p. 156. "‘"""""'e' ' 1h beliefs and practices in this connection is rather limited. When people buy clothing they usually select a certain gar- ment or garments from the merchandise displayed to them and reject others. What is their basis of decision in favor of a given garment? Coleman found that appearance of the gar- ment was the factor most frequently reported as a major ‘7 vanSyckle found consideration in the choice of clothing. that although durability and ease of upkeep were also men- tioned by well over half of the.conaumers, appearance was the factor considered most important by the great majority of the consumers.18 One of the interesting questionsconcerning the adolescent girl's choices in clothing is the source from which she receives ideas for the clothing she purchases. Meyer asked this question of senior high school girls in a Kansas community and found that store windows, their schoolmates' clothing, their mother's suggestions, and fashion magazines were each mentioned by two-thirds or more. of the pupils.19 Leash found in her study of teen-age buying practices that the girl's choices in clothing were La 17Coleman, Margaret, “An Analysis of the Responsibil- ities of the FirstJYear Homemaking Teacher with implications for.Teacher Education,” Unpublished Doctor's Dissertation, Teachers. College, Columbia University, New York, l95h, p. 99. 18'V'anSSywtmle,3.2. cit., p. 20. l9Moyer, Louisa, "The Clothing Practices of a Selected Group of Kansas Senior High School Girls,"Unpubllshed Master's Thesis, Kansas State College, Manhattan, l9hh, p. 15. is influenced most by clothing advertisements in newspapers and also by store window displays] their parents and class. mates also influenced their choices. Leash also found that the majority of the girls shopped in downtown department stores and specialty shops. Only twentybfive or onewfourth of the total group always or frequently shopped in their neighborhood starch”?o interesting results compiled for several surveys were found on specific clothing preferences. Consideration of the preferences relates to type of garment, color, style, and line. Silverman found that throughout the age range of twelve to eighteen, sweaters and shirts were the most popular mode of dress worn by a large majority of each age group; “cotton dresses were their second choice. The indications A were that there was a preferred mode of dress_to which all groups attempted to conform.2! Preferences in types, textures and designs of fabrics were also considered by Smith in her survey. Cotton was the most pepular fabric for blouses as indicated by fifty-nine percent of the girls, while nylon was selected by thirty- nine percent and rayon crepe by fifteen percent. Sweater fabrics were listed in the following order: nylon, cashmere, .__._A 1% ____ _. .‘44... “— h__ L—— 20Leash, Grace, 9A Survey of the Clothing Preferences and Buying Practices of 100 Girls of West Division High School in Milwaukee, Vii’isconsin,‘I Unpublished Master's Thesis, Michigan State College, l953. pp. 58-59. ' ZISII‘Vemn, 22a 2-1-1109 p. LLBe l6 wool, and angora. Gabardine was the most pepular for suits and soft-textured fabrics for‘sklrts.22 The girl's expressions of preferences for line showed that for all types of garments, plain fabrics were consist- ently more acceptable to the girls than plaid or printed fabrics. Casual and tailored garments were favored by all of the girls. and sixty-four percent of the girls indicated a preference for straight skirts, sixteen percent for pleated and fifteen percent for flared.23 fin the Cobb study. preference for line was correlated with age: and it revealed that one hundred percent of those aged fifteen preferred soft curved lines as compared to only sixtymseven percent of those who were eighteen years old. None of the younger girls preferred straight lines. while thirtywthree percent of the eighteen year age group indicated this preference. The inference seems to be that as age in- creases the tendency for preference of straight lines in- 21; CP03333e .An investigation of the problems of two thousand girls by Hertzler in l9h0 showed that twentyhone percent 228mlth,.Alms, FApperel Buying Motives and Habits of High School Girls of Des Moines, lawn,” Unpublished Master's Thesis, Drake university, Des Moines, 1950, p. 80. 23Helman, Lois, "The Relationship of Color and Line of Dress to the Personality of High School Girls,“ Unpublished Maiger's Thesis, Drexel institute of Technology, Philadelphia, ‘9 3 p. 3‘s 2%01333, 22s 513;", Pe 1L6. i? felt that their clothes were not adequate for their needs. For some, this lack of proper clothing gave rise to feelings of inferiority. Others felt that they were kept from Joining the group because of lack of clothing}?5 Leash found that ninetybons percent considered their ssrdrobss adequate for school. Eightybeight percent con- sidered than adequate for informal sear, hat only fortybtvo percent considered than adequate for formal occasions. These figures indicated a surprisingly large number who felt that their wardrobes were adequate. This nay’bs partially exp piainsd by*the fact that eightybtvo of the girls worked and seventybfivs of than.spsnt at least a part of their earnings on clothing. rsrtybthrae girls earned from five to fifteen dollars a week. This date may’indicsts s self-satisfied attitude on the part of the students due to their limited social experience. to their family'backgroand. and also to the fact that there was little evidence of social mobility in the family.26 Holmhlsde in her study of the clothing ssrn by'tean~ agsrs sought to find the clothes that parents do not sent their daughter to soar. Ten of the mothers did not want their daughters to wear clothes which they considered 25herteler, Alvenda, 'Problems of the Normal.ndolsscent Girl." glifornia gourna 1___ of: Secondagx Education. February. nPP- 26LCCCR, 22s 2%" Pa 65a 18 inappropriate for a specific occasion such as: Jeans to ' school, shorts for downtown, good clothes to school, shirt and jeans when there was company or nylon stockings to school. A similar number did not went their daughters to wear gar- ments in which necklines were too low, skirts and sweaters which were too tight, or very sheer blouses. A.few mothers also named garments which they thought to be in poor taste as colors that were too gaudy, or clothes that were too fussy, and shirts in unb2coming styles.27 Silverman felt the school could serve the parents well by interpreting to them clothing interest and resulting behavior. Later she recommended, becauso.a great majority of the group she studied indicated a desire for an expert in the school, that such a person could help them.with their clothing problems as well as help them express their in- dividuality and enhance their attractiveness. nAdditionslly, she suggested that such courses must be of the functional type, not only acquainting girls with the theoretical foundation of design and line but also realistic problems of appropriateness, individuality and suitability to age.28 27Hoimblade, 32. 23;... p. 93. 2BSilverman,'gg.‘g_i__t_., p. ll9. 19 CHAPTER 1!! METHODS AND PROCEDURES The questionnaire and garments used in the personal interviews of this study will be designed to secure specific information as to purchasing practices and factors influenc- ing the choice of clothing_of fifty freshmen and fifty senior girls of Servite High School, Detroit, Sichigan. These two groups will be surveyed to ascertain similar- ities and differences between the two age groups in their clothing choices. The senior girls chosen to participate in this study will be enrolled in clothing classes during the current school year. Since freshmen girls may not enroll in clothing classes their participation will be on a voluntary basis. The questionnaire for the interviews will be given a trial test to determine the length of time necessary for its completion and also to Judge whether the questions are clearly stated and understood. Because of the great amount of information to be secured, it is not feasible to try to obtain it in one interview. Two interviews of approximately fortybfive minutes each will be scheduled for each student. Since these interviews can be best secured after school or on Saturday, it will be necessary to extend the interviews over a period of weeks. The questionnaire will consist of three parts: Part I (see Appendix.A, page 98) will be a personal 220 data sheet designed to give the investigator specific in- formation concerning each student's family. it will include questions on the occupation and birthplace of the parents, the amount of money, if any, earned by the student inter~ viewed and what proportionate expenditure of the money she earns is used for her clothing. Questions designed to reveal the student's Judgment concerning the adequacy of her wardrobe, how she compares .it with those of her peers, and her own observation con- cerning her personal appearance and grooming habits will also be included in Part 1. Each student participating in the study will be asked to personally fill out this section of the questionnaire. Part ii (see.Appendix 8, page 102) will be designed to determine whether these one hundred girls feel that the wearing of a school uniform violates their concept of independence in making clothing choices and whether they desire any modification in the type of school uniform which they are now'wearing. .A third group of questions will be designed to measure the degree of sensitivity they have concerning their personal requirements in clothing and their awareness of the factors which influence their choices. Ten dresses, typical of those available in retail stores and typical of dresses worn by teen-age girls, will be used to study individual preferences in ready-to-wear. These dresses will be examined by the students for specific 20 data sheet designed to give the investigator specific in- formation concerning each student's family. it will include questions'on the occupation and birthplace of the parents, the amount of money, if any) earned by the student inter- viewed and what preportionate expenditure of the money she earns is used for her clothing. Questions designed to reveal the student's Judgment concerning the adequacy of her wardrobe, how she compares it with those of her peers, and her own observation con- cerning her personal appearance and grooming habits will also be included in Part 1. Each student participating in the study will he asked to personally fill out this section of the questionnaire. Part ii (see.Appendix B, page 102) will be designed to determine whether these one hundred girls feel that the wearing of a school uniform violates their concept of independence in making clothing choices and whether they desire any modification in the type of school uniform which they are now’wearing. .A third group of questions will be designed to measure the degree of sensitivity they have concerning their personal requirements in clothing and their awareness of the factors which influence their choices. Ten dresses, typical of those available in retail stores and typical of dresses worn by teen-age girls, will he used to study individual preferences in readyuto-wear. These dresses will be examined by the students for specific 21 preferences in style, color, fabric, quality of workmanship. _ and ease of care. Each dress will be identified by a number. A price tag. and label with all available pertinent infor- mation about fabric, finish, or recommendations for care will be attached to the garments. Part 111 will be an inventory check-list for outer- garments in their present wardrobe. It will provide infor- mation concerning the number of the specified outer-garments owned, the approximate date of purchase, approximate cost, and type of fabric, color and style. in order to obtain as accurate information as possible, this inventony check-list will be filled out at home where they'may actually check on the requested information. cmnmiv _DISCUSSION'AND Inraarnarnrions 22 An analysis of the personal data sheets revealed pertinent information about these one hundred girls. .Ages of these one hundred girls ranged from thirteen to eighteen inclusively. Nearly two-thirds of the freshmen were fourteen years of age, and about threeefourths of the Table 1 indicates seniors were seventeen years of age. the distribution of ages within the two groups. yma; DISTRIBUTION 0F.AGE8 _WAge <1},_ lh‘ lS_*_ i6 ll,wg _lB Total Freshmen lo 32 8 SO geniors 12 36 g 50 The data on the occupations of the fathers indicated that the majority'may be classified as skilled or semi- skilled workers. belonged in a professional classification. Only six out of the ninety-three reporting Since Detroit is an industrial city it was expected that the majority of their fathers might be employed in some branch of the 23 automotive industry. Occupations of the fathers are listed in TflbIB 110 TABLE I EMPLONMENT 0F RATHERS ‘_-_._. ..__.___ .‘LH a_._. e of . Position pg Freshmen Seniors Totali Factory 21 lh 3S Salesman 5 7 l2 Maintenance 2 3 S Foreman l 3 u Carpenter l 3 h Engineer 1 3 h Accountant 2 2 h Policeman 2 l 3 Barber 2 l 3 Painter 2 l 3 Baker l 2 3 Doctor 0 2 2 Grocer i l 2 Plumber 2 O 2 Undertaker 0 2 2 Radio-Television l l 2 Landscaper i 0 l Cab Driver 1 0 l Dispatcher l O 1 Not working 2 3 5 Not living 1 l 2 it was found that twentybfour or practically one- fourth of the mothers were engaged in full-time positions outside the home, while fourteen mothers held part-time positions. This has implications in terms of the relative amount which might be spent for clothing and of the buying 2n practices within the home. The type of positions held by the mothers is shown in Table ill. TABLE II .,___._i ww— EMPLOYMENT OF EDTHERS M9. 2'; W Fres%.‘%%iors Fresfigysgfiiors M A“ ‘ V :4______ Saleslady 5 h l 2 12 Factory h 2 2 3 ll Secretary 1 3 l 0 5 Telephone . l O 2 l h Seametress 2 0 O 0 2 Nurse 2 0 0 0 2 Cook . O O 0 2 2 Total 15 9 . 6 3 % 33 An analysis of the data on self-employment indicated that thirtyefive or the seniors and thirtybthree of the freshman girls were currently employed. Thirtyvone worked after school: forty had Saturday Jobs: and forty-rive or almost one-half of the total group interviewed indicated that they had worked last summer. The fact that so many of the girls work suggests a need for supplementing their family 23 income to provide for basic needs or for non-essential but desined expenditures. Most of the senior girls were employed as clerks in nearby department stores; whereas the majority of the freshmen girls were babysitters. Table IV indicates the average hourly wage paid to the freshmen and senior groups. The six girls who earned more than one dollar per hour had special aptitudes or abilities. Two were organists, three gave music lessons, and one gave dancing lessons. TABLE 9; STUDENT EMPLOYMENT Type of Earnings Earnings Positions Freshmen Seniors per hour per week Selesgirl 2 l9 3 .75 to .85 $10 to $15 ‘ Babysitter 3i 6 .ho ' .50 2 " 5 waitress 0 h .90 10 " 12 Teacher 0 3 1.00 "1.50 35 ' ho Organist O 2 2.00 35 " ho Receptionist 0 l .95 20 “ 25 Total 33 35 The reasons given for employment outside the home overwhelmingly indicated a desire for additional money for 26 clothing purchases. Eightybflve percent of the money these one hundred girls earned was spent for clothing, approxi- mately ten percent for school supplies and transportation, and the remaining five percent was put into savings. To better understand the home life of these girls, questions were asked about the birthplace of their parents and the language spoken at home. .Analysis of replies re- vealed that twentywiive fathers and twentybseven mothers were foreign born. However, thirty of the fiftybseven were born in Canada. Since Windsor is only across the river from Detroit, the remaining twenty-seven foreign born parents did not seem exceedingly high in number. However, it was indicated that a foreign language was spoken in nineteen of the one hundred homes. Further questioning revealed that although English was usually spoken in the home, Flemish, French, German, and ltalian were spoken chiefly by the parents or upon the occasion of a visitor in the home who did not speak English. it seems significant that most of the girls interv viewed came from relatively small family groups. Table V shows the number of children in the family and the ages of brothers and sisters living at home as well as those not living at home. Fiftybeix or more than half of the families had one, two, or three children. Thirtybthree or one-third of the total families had four, five, or six children. i There were eleven homes in which there were six or more 27 children. While there were approximately ea many brother: aa aietere living at home, there were fewer boys than girla under high echool age. There were comparatively'few older brothers or aiatere who had homes of their own or were living away from home. in the majority of the familiee in this aurvey the children were too young to contribute in any appreciable way to their eupport. No doubt this accounts, in part. for the number of mothere who sought employment out- aide the home. Teble‘v shove the family composition aa to number of children in the family, eex and whether they were younger or older than the interviewee. 28 unauaew nee ceaaeeuh me o m o m o o ‘m 0 ~ o ~ 3.53 o m o a o o m m a o a can 0 o o o o o o o o o o 2:2 o m o o a A o b m m o n .233 o b o o a m m m m m b 55o» o o o w m . s 2 o e a w «3 o o o a o 3 mg m D p o 25.. o a o m m 2 5 o i m 9. Son 0 m o m a n. N“ m 2 o 2 3.3:. o o o o o a o o mm a 3 25 o o o o o o o o 31%? we .8 f a .. ecuéolfiguo .wqomgmngm: eaauaqummfio m nae-momfiuuw 38: .2 33 .52 $6: .5 a I up none—oz [ i z E , L E e ZOHhuaomaou.thE§w Hg 29 The response to the questions on self-evaluation of their personal appearance indicated twentybtwo of the girls were not satisfied with their appearance. it was interest- ing to note that sixteen of the twentyutwo were freshmen. When questioned further it was found that dissatisfaction was not always due to the inadequacy of their clothes, but to over-weight, figure deformities or poor complexion which made them feel uncomfortable and unhappy about their appear- ance. , Almost one-half of the senior girls stated that they were satisfied with both the number and variety of garments in their wardrobe. Since two-thirds of them.worked and spent approximately eightybfive percent of their earnings on clothing. one might assume that the desire for clothes was a primary motivation in their seeking employment. ‘Almost three times as many freshmen girls as seniors felt that their clothes were not comparable to those of their friends. The freshman girl who had Just entered high school probably had had limited social activity. but now felt her wardrobe inadequate for the additional activities she would be at- tending or participating in. Church, parties; and dating were the social occasions outside of school for which clothing was important. The ,senior girls felt a need for more party dresses because of more social activities. The freshmen girls, however, felt their wardrobes adequate for their more limited social 30 requirements. Both age groups, however, felt the needfor or wanted more sweaters, blouses, and play clothes. Sport activities and parties were the school activities that made the individual girl feel the need and desire for appropriate clothing. Only one senior, as compared to five freshmen girls, felt that her wardrobe was not adequate for social participation in her group. Analysis of the responses to questions pertaining to their independence as to what should be worn for special occasions reVealed that fifteen senior girls seldom sought the opinion of others while only five of the freshman group indicated such independence in this regard. CLOTHINO’PREFERENCES A.“ The school uniform worn at Servite High School 31 32 it has been both traditional and compulsory for the girls attending this parochial school to wear a prescribed school uniform. in Part ll, (see Appendix 8, page 103) of the questionnaire on clothing preferences an attempt was made to determine whether the girls would prefer not to dress uniformly or would like any modification in the uni- form now being worn. The uniform the girls wear consists of a navy blue rayon~dacron gabardine box~type Jacket and a four~gore skirt with a pleat in both the back and the front. The blouse is a white broadcloth “Ship and Shore“ brand with short sleeves and a pointed collar. For church wear, a peaked hat is worn. Black and white saddle Oxfords and white anklets complete the uniform. The uniform was currently purchased from Kern's, one of the large downtown Detroit department stores. The cost of the Jacket was $12.95: the skirt, $6.95; the blouse, $2.95; the hat, $1.95. Most of the girls purchased two skirts and three blouses when they were freshmen. Seventybfive percent of the girls have been able to wear their school uniform for the entire four years thewaere in high school and have found it necessary to purchase only two new blouses each year. An analysis of the responses concerning the attitude of the girls toward the wearing of a prescribed uniform to school follows. When the questionnaire was administered, 33 the freshmen group had been wearing their uniform only three weeks. When asked if they preferred wearing street clothes to school instead of the school uniform, thirteen. freshmen said they preferred the street clothes, but only four of the seniors preferred street clothes to the uniform. Both groups felt that the style of the uniform was attrac- tive and becoming to the maJority of the girls. When con. sidering the initial costs and maintenance over the period of the four years they felt that it was much less expensive than if they had individually selected their own clothes. Many of the girls indicated that they would like to see minor changes made-in the style or design of the uni- form. Twentwaive girls wished that the Jacket was more fitted, ten would like to have the Jacket replaced with a weakit. while eight would have preferred a Jerkin instead of the Jacket. seventyhfive of the students would like to have the shoulder pads removed from the Jacket. Sixty felt that the skirt needed no modification. Ten senior girls preferred a straighter skirt, while fifteen of the freshmen girls preferred a circular or fuller skirt. The style and fabric of the blouse were well liked by m. maJorlty of the total group. They suggested that the top button on the blouse be raised about an inch as they felt that the neckline was too low; .Almost the entire group were dissatisfied with the hat that had been chosen. The elastic in the back of the hat tended to make it slide off the head. They preferred a “beanie” type of hat. Ninety percent of group were satisfied with the saddle oxford which was chosen and stated that if the school had not required a specific type of shoe that they .would have selected saddle oxfords. -Ninety girls felt the saddle oxford was comfortable and gave good support. Ten percent of the group preferred the loafer type of shoe to the saddle oxford. When asked if they felt unhappy in wearing garments to school that were not of their own choice, four seniors and thirteen freshmen stated that they were unhappy. When asked if given a choice would they continue to wear the uniform to school, fortybsix of the seniors and thirtyb seven of the freshmen stated that they preferred the school . uniform. Reasons substantiating their preferences were: Pwith the wearing of a uniform there was no rivalryg' ”No question of what to wear the next day)“ "More economical)" IOne can keep other clothes for other activities;' "Not enough other clothes;' and I'Saves on the washing and 'ironing.9 The girls who disliked having to wear the uni- form stetedr 'Got tired of wearing the same thing;' 'Did not like to be dressed like someone elsex'l and I'l.iked to wear a variety of clothes.“ 4 An.analysis of the responses as to the serviceability and durability of their school uniforms indicated marked differences of opinion. Almost half of the girls did not think that the fabric in their uniform gave satisfactory serVice. Their dissatisfaction was based on "Gets out of shape;' I'Gets shinyg” and ”Sleeves wear out.“ Comments on case of care were: "Wrinkles fall out)“ and “Does not show soil or spots." Approximately one-fourth felt that it was necessary to press the skirt frequently in order to present a neat appearance. When questioned about the factors that most frequently _influence their choice in the purchase of a skirt or blouse, it was found that none of the one hundred girls knew a brand name for a skirt; the only brand name that they knew for blouses was I'Ship and Shore,” the brand name of the blouse that they were with the school uniform. One hundred percent of the girls were concerned about color, price, and style; whereas, cost of upkeep, ease of care, and fiber content were not important factors to them. Only ten of the one hundred interviewed were concerned with workmanship. Fifty- two of the freshman group and only five of the senior group wished to purchase both skirts and blouses that were similar to those of their friends. Color and design hold a very prominent place in their clothing preferences. Table‘Vi shows that blue seemed significantly high in their color preference in coats, dresses, and blouses. Gray was popular for suits or skirts. . in order of frequency, blue, white, brown, and pink were the favored colors for sweaters. Approximately one-third 36 preferred blue or white for blouses. Red was the second choice color for winter coat: and pink for spring coats. Plain fabric was the predominate choice for all garments. I However, for fabrico with denign, plaid was a favorite for skirts, and prints were favored for dresses. Table‘Vi indicate: their color preference for their favorite coat, suit, blouse, sweeter, skirt and dress. 37 My}. COLOR AND DESIGN CHOICES 0 0:31:11» oxguz Dov-sung: 358283“23322 a: n. a: a: t9 :2 :3 «o >. n. a. a. Winter Cost 39 7 6 3 10 22 a O O 80 8 12 Spring Cost 30 19 0 13 0 1h 8 11 O 88 12 0 Favorite Suit 17 5 o u 11 o 8 o o 96 h 0 Favorite Blouse 3h 18 O 35 O 0 h h 0 73 12 15 Favorite Sweater 29 15 16 22 O 2 0 9 8 100 0 0 Favorite Skirt 15 O 22 0 3h 0 16 0 O 60 21 19 Favorite Dress 32 21 6 16 6 O 10 9 h h9 11 ho When asked why they chose the specific blouse, skirt, and dress and indicated it as their "favorite'' most of those interviewed said that they liked this particular iten.because of its style end/or color. Eighty said that the skirt sea a I'i'avorite" because of fit. Fiftybthree indicsted that it III the fabric which made the dress a favorite for them. When the girls were questioned about garments in their wardrobes that had previously belonged to someone else, it use found that costs. blouses, skirts and dresses were the items most often mentioned. Sixtybseven stated that they liked the garments that had been given to then. Thirty-three 38 stated that they disliked the garments that were given to them and gave as their reasons: ”Did not fits" "Did not have style3' I"l‘oo old:' or 'Too behyish.‘I 'The garments in their wardrobes that they did not wear were shoes and skirts that did not fit, sweaters that were badly stretched, dresses and suits that were out of style, and shirts that were not pleasing in color. in order to ascertain the ability of the girls to Judge suitability of dress for various occasions, several questions pertaining to suitability were included. The students were asked to check the type of clothing they wore to church, to work, and to special social functions, and then to tell why they made these choices. Because of the uniformity in their responses, the girls indicated that they wish to conform to the accepted standards of suitability for their age groups. Blouses or sweaters with skirts were undoubtedly the most popular combination for all types of activities, as can be seen in Table V11. Half of the girls wore separates to church and to work, and three- fourths of them wore them also for social activities. Dresses ranked second in popularity for church wear and social functions; but only twenty of the girls chose dresses, and always cotton dresses, for wearing to work. .As might be expected from differences in physical _ maturity, the age difference between freshmen and senior was noticeable in the wearing of suits. Twentybseven 39 seniors and twelve freshmen were then to church, and twelve seniors and two freshaen wore them for social activities. Only the few seniors who held office positions listed suits for wearing to work. I mm SUITABILITY OF mm roe VARIQJI OCCASIONS o rch 'l'o Work Ice!“ ~ on Sunde Activities u - c A A? Ti 1r 1.4.1.42 Blouses or Sweaters with shirts 31 21 16 3h he 3h Dresses (wool, silk] synthetic) T 16 23 o o 7 19 Dresses (cotton) 7 16 5 1h 8 1h Shit. 12 27 0 h 2 I2 er-«Freshmen sea-«Seniors 7—— . Reasons given for the above preferences were similar for all occasions. Host frequently used were: 9A1ways stylishz' “More comfortablex' “most girls wear the-3' 'oives more variety)“ 'seems aost suitable for the occasion.“ For school dances and parties the girls rated as unsuitable: sheer blouses, tight sweaters and tight skirts, saddle shoes, and low cut dresses. The garments that they considered unsuitable for basketball or football games he were: levis, shorts, blue Jeans, dressy dresses, tight sweaters, bermudas, slacks, and boy's shirts tied around the waist. Unsuitable garments which were listed as seen worn in downtown Detroit were: sheer blouses, shorts, bermudaa, levis, lowbnecked dresses, tight sweaters, sun dresses, midriffs, halter type dressesa-and dirty shoesi During the past summer there has been much dis“ cussion in our Detroit newspapers about the wearing of shorts for shopping downtown. Most of the girls inter- viewed felt that the only time that shorts were appropriate was in the privacy of one's own home but never for street ‘wear. included with shorts were bermudas, not because they were considered immodest but because the girls did not think them becomingiy feminine. They were listed as unsuitable and improper for shopping, for parties, for street wear and for school activities. Slacks were regarded as inappropriate for church, school, dances, parties or when dining out or entertain- ing visitors in the home. .All agreed that 'sun dresses“ should not be worn to church or school, and some ruled them out for shopping excursions and dates. .4. _stw 2:. PREFERENCE FOR READY-'lQ-WEAR Q: TEN masses Lil 12 ma.o m¢.h mo.h moon no.3» uo_ee use» n.x¢.e3 wean luxanht n¢o~ooeouA no o~xo~v use emcee acqon oeeeoAae coaaoo goouooeona connoue couuou nuanovsoua couaoo omega cube ecu ecouuou IIIINIIIIII semen“ coma .uoeea cannon hbahm muzmthmmm anon sonaeeu ooh .ueoaaan ob_;e ease. .ueuaou noxe.d cease «bug; coupon on scone eunuch .uuon eaeee one pounce vexed; sodas» amen one s.» we» .euuoo eases ecu ueuaoo vexeue oaoua sauna bonus» on vegan eases usunoo vexcum can soaem euuoo ode heauoo sauce ,eoUua Enron 2339.0 uddecoaxuok Euuh mm. 3%. 33me u n m> mamtfi auqxe veuocuem «nan .eo>os~e cuoooe .ouxoau no.s.eooaan eo>oe~e canoes .uuuxe venenuou .ecqu unease "ensue: ee>ee~e cuuaoe .ou.xe eeeoaaem com ob.gs\xo¢~m onus». sauce .oehou mood one know ee>ee~e e.:«.a .oe.x. -su .ecuu %onm xeev raga-s maeeauz ecu «am.b ee>es~e e.a»o» .oeaxe «use .oes. . senses «unease mannaxcusm 3N3 e38 Izm..... uno. zonal—Enema >H «nu ma eeeua h3 mm.» me.» we.: mo.fi mo.~» mount “80$! -uoc obnooo<_ noxaua eueum use». tue>u ooeeonfim vexcum nuouooeoun newe- tnlt ecouou vexcua consume engages“ Iain co—hz ecucomfi cogaoo coacuua names unease noeoa.a nexe.a neucmm couuaauonoa manncnaxnos unpack eepoe~e pee ccuuxoee venue uo>oo~e uou~ooce node :0 no.» oecnoo nooaoon and“ ecoaeocunm aencu uuuxa an and» season ion noouoon co aqua oceanocunu one among xoeum oouooa cu unmade eoun «sumac one pounce u—em uuon xoeua «xoeua cu conga amuse vce ecu—o0 sauna Snub «amaznhzouv HuH> m4m¢fi auoa voodoo nuuuxe eueanbam _uae nee>eo~e ounces nonuuxuoc nooom anon Muse «cause wouocaem «ash noose» one» «aux- em aeecu nocuuiueunl uses suoz «neoaobooum be.xu assessed «gum aeo>oo~e cucuoe nocua tango? nouoaoz «use» umeunbam "_ne .eesuuuaqes «snobs: "one“ Loouoone noun eufluw ponco>oq 09mm cocoa mamee\oe~m «bugs\xe.a pouou Xu ~=> uH> a) “DOS PREFERENCES POI-'1 nanny-19mm .A group of ten dresses was used to determine in- dividual preferences in color, line, and design as well as for student evaluation of suitability for specific occasions, serviceability and evaluation of workmanship. These dresses were chosen by a research committee from Michigan State University as typical of styles and fabrics available on the current market for girls ranging in age from twelve to eighteen. These dresses were chosen on the basic assumption that there is rather a wide range of maturity among teen-age girls. For that reason both girls' and teen-age sized dresses were selected. .A comparable number were essentially more sophisticated in styling than those from the children's departments. in price range and fabric these dresses were likewise representative of what teeneage girls would find in stores it shopping for dresses. in the interview schedule (see.Appendix B, page 113) questions 36~50 were designed to determine student prefer- ences based on ten ready-to-wear dresses. Questions 36-hl were designed specifically to study preference in style which included specifically structural design, trim, and color; ua-uh were designed for their evaluation of workman- ship] #5 for Judgment on fabric quality) h6-h7 for ease of care: as for labels; and h9-50 on price-value relation- ship based on combined quality of style, fabric, ease of care, etCe #5 For shopping downtown or other social occasions the seniors indicated preference for dresses lli, VT, and ix, which in structural line, neckline, color, and decorative trim were more sophisticated and comparable to the dresses worn by the older teenfage group. it is a general observa- tion that freshmen girls differ in height, weight, figure type, and maturity to a greater extent than the older ado- lescent girl. An observer will note that some girls of fourteen are still definitely"little girls" whereas others no older see themselves in the role of a young lady; The less mature girls chose dresses 1 and‘Vil, while the rest of the freshman group showed preference for the same styles as those chosen by the senior girls. The workmanship of the dresses was Judged by examin- ing the stitching of the seams, seam finishes, garment placket, and hem finish. Because of the bound seams of dress 1 and the machine edge stitched seams of dress Vii. they were rated as superior in workmanship to the other eight dresses. Dresses V’and x'were regarded as poor in workmanship for the following reasons: the waistline and armhole seams were badly frayed; a long machine stitch was used on the placket opening: and the side seams were not evenly’stitched. Three dresses were rated as very poor in their decorative trim. They indicated that dresses 1V} V, and ‘Vill were displeasing in color combination. The black and no white embossed cotton, dress 1V} was displeasing in color combination to them because of the mustard color used for the collar and belt. They thought the different reds com- bined in dress V’were not harmonious. The inset in the skirt of dress Vlll was disliked, and their comments inu dicated that they did not think the inset was good in gar. ment design. They likewise indicated their dislike for the cap sleeve of this dress. For questions h6~h7 which concerned their evaluation of the iaunderability of the dresses, both groups indicated dress rv. the black and white printed cotton with mustard yellow trim and rhinestones as one which would not launder well. They thought the polished cotton would lose its gloss, that the raised design would flatten in laundering, and the rhinestones would present an additional laundering problem. Dress‘v, the red denim, was also considered poor in lsundcrabllity. They thought that the fabric would fade and that it would not iron well. Dress x, the lavender acetate faille, was considered very poor in launderability. Dry cleaning was the method suggested for this dress. When questioned about the labels 'wrinkl-Shed' and 'Everglase,‘ the freshman group was unaware of the meaning of the terms. Many stated that they did not'know, and from the response of those who guessed at the meaning, the in- vestigator was convinced that the freshman group had not learned how to interpret informative labels in the shopping h? in which they had participated. When questioned further as to the care that should be given the garment labeled as 'Wrinki-Shed,' or whether this finish would affect the laundering and ironing, the freshmen definitely showed their lack of knowledge in this regard. Most of the seniors knew the meaning and significance of the labels because they had been enrolled in clothing classes and had studied the mean- ing of different labels in their classes. Good fabric, pleasing style, and good workmanship were the reasons given by the senior girls for Judging the best value in terms of price. The freshmen in considering the best value in terms of price did not include workman- ship in their evaluation. The investigator thought the senior girls, many of whom had earned the money which they spent for clothing, were more cognizant of quality of fabric, ease of care, and workmanship as desired qualities. The freshmen girls actually had had less experience in making their own choices and were more subjective in their evalu- ation as their interest was essentially for becomigness. Apparently ease of care had not been a major concern in their experience, and total durability had been a minor CORCO rn e us £122E!IHEEEEEEEEE§§HAEEHEAI£EQHEEBEEQEflrfiflgfiflgfiiSEEQEEEEE £531 . y Fabrics nine end white cotton " gingham ‘ Trim: White orgendy collar trimmed with pique; cluster of flowers: eeif belt Lehell ‘Vrinki-Shed Price: $h.98 3:: ‘m & “in; figITWllli K. NIll' . ' - Q ‘5. '2 v ... _iTiT'. _ - I' w PREFERENCES gggtebiigtg for shopping downtown or eociei occasions: Selected by. immature freehmen typee ReJected my: eii senior girie grim: rated es e pieeeing aomhinetion Workmenehiz: reted excellent beceuee of the bound eeeme end neet etitching Launderebigitxi rated as good {rice thuei rated ee goad ’49 mess 1; Fabric: Light and dark gray cotton broadcloth Trim: Peter Pan collar; bright yellow piping on collar, cuffs. and yoke Pf1303 $3e98 PREFERENCES §uitsbilitx for shopping downtown or other social occasions: Rejected by: both groupe was rated as a pleasing combination Workmanshig: rated as fair because of the frayed seams Leunderahilitx: rated as good Price value: rated as good go Fabric: Gray and white stripe cotton gingham Trim: White pique collar and cuffs, red tie, narrow red belt Label: Wrinkl-Shed Price: $7.95 PREFERENCES m Suitabilitx for shopping downtown or for social occaaione: Selected by: nature freshmen t s and all seniorgirls Rejected by: immature treehmen ypes Trim: rated as excellent because of. the pleasing color combinations workmanship: rated as good Laggdsrabilitze rated as good' [gice value: rated as good Fabric: Black and white printed cotton Trim: Mustard yellow col- lar, yellow belt piped in black. rhinestone in the bodice Label: Embossed P"033 $7e95 ZREFERENCES guitability for shopping downtown or for social occasions: Rejected by: both groups Irim: rated as a very poor color combination Workmanship:' rated as good Launderagilitx: rated as poor, because it was thought that the black would bleed Price vglug: rated as poor because or the lack of style qualities .Efléiél! Fabric: Jumperoored denim Dickieoored broad~ cloth ~ Trim: White piped collar: white buttons, red leather belt Price: $6.95 I gggranaucss Suitability for shopping downtown or for social occasions Rejected by: both groups ‘Igig: rated as poor because of the lack of color harmony woryggnghig: rated as poor because of frayed seams, large machine stitching, and sleeves puckered in the armholes W: rated as poor because it was thought the red would fade and it would not iron sell Pricg value: rated as poor because of the lack of style qualities 53 Fabric: Pink and white glazed Chintz Trim: White collar, cuffs, and bodice front piped in black: black suede belt Price: $7.95 _ EREFERENCES guitabilitx;for shopping downtoen or for social occasions: Selected by: mature freshmen types and all senior girls Rejected by: immature freshman types Trim: rated as a very’pleaeing combination ‘ngkmanehig: rated as Good Launderabilitx: rated as good Price'Value: rated as good Fabric: Blue and white nylon sheer Trim: Collar and cuff: of self material, bias stripe in the bodice 'f‘C03 $7e95 I A— 4 r‘ -h— “.— W W for social occasions: Selected my: immature freshmen types Rejected by: mature freshmen types and all seniers Irimi rated as a very pleasing combination ‘Ior h : rated as superior because of the machine . finished seems and the neatly finished details Launderabigltz: .rated as good Price value: rated as good 55 Fabric: Peach cotton broad- cloth Trim: Black braid and rhinestones trim‘ yoke and inset: black ribbon: clus- ter of flowers Price: $h.98 grammes Suitability for social occasions: Rejected by: both groups . w: Skirt trim rated as poor in design. dislike of cap sleeve worgggnghgg: rated as good because of the neatly stitched seams _ Laundegabiligx: rated as good Price‘value: rated as good .‘ mn- b mm Fabric: blue embossed cetton Trim: Narrow band cellar: corded ties on sleeves: self belt rhinestones in bed as Label: Everglase Price: $7.95 56 2 “tagging for social occasions: Selected by: nature freshmen types and all seniors Rejected by: inature freshnen types M: rated as excellent M: rated as good W3 '““ as 9°“ m m: rated as good Fabric: Lavender acetate faille Trim: ‘ Scoop neckline piped . . in purple: pi‘ d sleeves: purp e corded be t Price: $7.95 W for social «mm... Selected by: seniors Rejected by: freshmen M: rated as a pleasing color combination s r : rated as poor because of the badly*frayee ‘ seams and the uneven stitching W: rated as poor: dry cleaning see suggested gzice value: rated as good 58 «codes: .33 moo.— 38 .82 v30 9833 x 38 .63 .83 05:85 3853852.. 5 38 38 .38 .82 396 «32.2 :9 once 33 322.3 95285 33...: => .58 33 38 £83.98 concessions-3.. g noon has» . boom be, soon seem mocha census: > doom 3e.— vooc noon mecca «ensue: a .33 e80 wood «528nm nuoucofeoeaata a: 33 .88 he. 38 96.3 8572 S vane 33 822?... 2.283 concur... u a g g :2» a ammun— mmuzmmmaufi no 5.3% m. g E 59 mm. Questions :3 to 27 were designed to determine the buying practices of the one hundred girls interviewed. in- dependence in shopping. the extent to which clothing was purchased ready-made, the type of stores and method of pament. the sources that influenced their choices, and a comparison of their clothing in cost. style and number with that of their friends were studied. An analysis of this data follows. To ascertain the degree of independence the girls had in shopping, each girl was asked to check the specific items of clothing which she most frequently purchased by herself as well as these for which she and her mother or father shopped together. This data is mind in Table x. Winter coats. suite. and dresses were the clothing items which were most frequently shopped for by the girl and her mother. blouses. sweaters. slips. shoes. and hose were items which the girl purchased alone. it is evident that the seventeen-year-old senior girls made many more purchases independently than the freshmen who were three years younger. Eleven seniors and twenty of the freshmen girls indicated that when they shopped for clothing with their mothers. the final decisions were made by the mother. The specific factors in order of frequency on which the 60 girl and her mother disagreed.were: style, color. fabric, fit of garment. and price. Table X indicates the buying practices for both major and minor items in their wardrobes. 233.5 no inn: nnrsngng Winter Coat .{ ’.% ’3 g.% 33 gig ‘2 ..%_ hall. 3 11: O O 26 l8 1: l Blouses 33 39 5 l 12 :o O 0 Sweaters 23 39 6 o :7 6 o 0 Shirts l8 3h. 0 0. 28 :6 o o Dressesr 6 12 o O 36 38 2 0 slips 2h 25 ll. :0 l5 l5 0 o Hosiery 31; 36 7 ll 7 0 0 Shoes 27 28 O 0 l9 , 20 ll 2 sr--Preshmcn ease-Seniors “NM The extent to which clothing was purchased ready» made is indicative of the trend away from seeing in the home. .A partial reason for this trend may be the fact, pointed ' out earlier. that thirtybeight of the mothers were employed part or fullatime outside the home. 6i it was found that from eighty to ninetyuone percent of the costs, suits, street and party dresses, blouses, shirts and sweaters were frequently purchased ready-made. Home sewing was not in- dicated as a wide-spread practice in the homes from which these girls came. Table Xi summarises the types of gar- ments and the frequency of purchasing them ready-made. TABLE 25; . manure memos!) READYuliADE Coats Suits Street Clothes Party Clothes Blouses skirts Sweaters Frequently Usually Never 9i 5 l 85 i0 5 83 ll 6 86 lh. 0 80 l2 8 8i lh 100 O O Because so many of‘the mothers have apparently never learned to sew; alterations on readybteuwear garments have Sixty of the girls admitted that they would not be allowed to buy'a garment on which aajer altera- presented problems. tions were needed. Pertybfour of the one hundred girls stated that they'never needed alterations on the garments 62 they'purchased. For the tiftybsia'eho required alterations. 'tiitybone had the alterations mode at home. the remaining five having them made in the store share the purchase was made. Thirtybone of the mothers made the necessary altera- tions on their daughters' clothing. and five girls made their own alterations. in thirteen instances sons other member of the tamily altered the garments. it was indicated that two-thirds of the one hundred girls interviewed seldom or never shopped in downtoon Detroit for their clothing. Because Detroit is a very large city) it has many excellent neighborhood shopping centers. Table Xi! indicates that sixtybsin percent usually shopped either at the neighborhood specialty or department stores; about one-fourth at the large department stores downtown; and approximately one-tenth patronized specialty shops. laékéuzil grams: mom wagcg grams 3; manszn nasal l1 golden Never Dovntovn department stores, as Hudson's, Kern's, Crowley's 2h 3h 12 Downtosn specialty shops as Lerner, Hemilhoch lo 30 h9 Neighborhood department stores as Federal, sears, Wards 36 20 15 Neighborhood specialty shops 30 i6 2h Mail Order Houses 0 0 0 Total 100 ’ zoo zoo 63 Eightybseven of the girls indicated that they looked in several stores before making e major clothing purchase. while eleven indicated they seldom shopped in several stores before purchasing. it has aleays been interesting to knos'vhat influences teen-age girls in the purchase of specific garments. The freshman group differed considerably from the seniors in respect to the impact of the respective factors. Three- feurths of the total number of interviewees indicated window displays and magazines of greatest and/or comparable sign nificance. Slightly'mors than one-half indicated parental influence and style shoes as next in importance. Clothing ‘eorn by their girl friends see mentioned by three times as many of the freshmen girls as by seniors. Twice as many freshmen as seniors indicated their parents as influencing their selections. Senior girls were obviously much more influenced by magazines. otyle shows, window displays and newspapers than by their parents or girl friends. sales- people apparently were ineffective in influencing many of these teen-agers. Tobie Xlil summarises the various inp fiaenees. TABLE XII! \ commons g; minnow; 93; cwmgno cnoxcag Freshmen Seniors Total Store Window'Displays uh 3h ' 78 magazines 33 #2 75_ Style Shows V 22 30 52 Parents “ 35 15 50 Newspapers ‘ i9 26 nus Clothing worn by girl friend 30 10 to 'Best Girlfriend . 21 9 3o Store‘Patterns . 8 lb 2h mu omn- Catalogs in 5 :9 Sales Clerks ' 12 5 l7 Practically all of the freshmen girls said that their parents paid for all or a part of their clothing, whereas about one-half of the seniors accepted full financial re. sponsibility for their clothing expenditures. Gifts of clothing seemed negligible. ‘ For minor items of clothing, such on lingerie, hose, or blouses, it was found that eighty-four of the girls paid cash, and fifteen used a charge account. Only one used the laybawny plan of payment. in major purchases such as costs, suits, or party dresses, thirtyueight paid cash, twentyheight 65 used a charge account, and thirty-four used the iayboway plan. Twentybtwo of those interviewed indicated that they frequently purchased garments at special or clearance sales. Fortybnine seldom, and twenty'never purchased apparel at 'special' sales. . When considering the price range from which they pur- chased party dresses, it was interesting to note the dif- ference between the two groups. Twentybeight seniors, but only'seven freshmen girls indicated they paid over $15 for party dresses. For other dresses less than 57 was paid hy thirtybseven freshmen and twentybone seniors, and more than $7 was paid by thirteen freshmen and twentybnine senior girls. The evident difference in the price range for the two groups can be explained by'the fact that the older girls are more active eocisilyiand feel the need of dressior clothes for party and date wear. The more informal sociel activities of the younger group does not require the more expensive type of dress. five freshmen girls indicated that they did not own a 'party dress.“ 66 m ......x1v cv— Pngco RANGE [on TEEN-ago mgsss m Dresses Freshmen Seniors 5 “In-MO 26 6 ll-- in. 12 16 lS-- 20 6 22 am- 20' ' l 6 Q3113; bases! 5 2m$ 5 18 7 6-- 7 19 1h 3... 9 9 15 Over 9 ll lh in response to the question so to whether or not they ‘would like to spend considerabiy'more than they are now spending on clothes, eight freshmen girls indicated they would like to spend considersbiy'more, thirtyeeight enmeshet more, end four would have preferred to spend somewhat less. in the senior group, it was found that two wished to spend considerably more, thirty somewhat more, and eighteen somewhat lees. 67 Table XV indicates titty-rive. titty. and sixty-ens ei‘ the total interviewees felt that in number. east, and style their clothes are eenparahle to these at their best friend. tiers oi‘ the freshmen girls felt that they had {ever and less expensive clothes. Appraaieateiy forty or the senior girls regarded their sardrobs as seneshat er very much better than that or their best friend as compared to less than twenty of the freshmen girls. m 5!. WW?" °" T‘W M w 'v ‘ 1 w gm ;F— Number .a Cost of style or garments 3 garments 3 garments 3 or as P- er «a ,2 or see ,2 Very much better 3 3 6 2 5 7 l B 9 Somewhat better ' 3 16 i9 8 at 29 5 la 17 has as 29 26 55 29 21 50 37 2h 61 telecast less good l3 1; 17 lo 3 l3 3 h 1 Not nearly as good as 2 '1 3 1 1 t 2 6 ”afresh-en “dealers 69 INVENTORY The validity of informstion from.an inventory check list was questioned hy’the investigator because frequently' that information is secured essentially'through recall. Another oritieima of inventories is that one is doubtful as to whether or not a completely truthful statement has been nade--particularly'if the interviewee feels her clothing to he less adequate in quality and/or quantity than that of her friends. in order to minimise these factors in this study. the student use given an inventory check -sheat which see to he filled out at home. The check sheet was designed to supply'tha following information! number of garments in specific categories, approximate cost, color, time of purchase. and fabric. At the time these sheets were distributed, explanation as to the procedure to he followed sea given. The invsso tigator made clear that the actual physical checking of their vsrdrohe see to include those garments hanging in storage- that is. vinter garments as well as those currently in use. As motivation. it was suggested that checking the inventory sheet would serve a dual purpose in that it would serve as an actual physical check on their complete wardrobe. and likewise provide the opportunity and/or necessity for re- organisation ef hanging space in their clothes closet. 70 The investigator tried to make clear that the use to be made of the information secured frosnths inventory check list see not to be analysed on an individual basis. but rather as a survey of shat constituted typical quantity; quality; and prices paid for various garments. it see the hope of the investigator that the girls be honest as to the quantity. quality; and cost recorded fer the specific items. A Certain inadequacies in any'evaiuation of inventories are recognised. however, it.aes the intent that this in- ventory be essentially objective incharacter and that sub- .Jective evaluation be minimised. .An analysis of the data from the one hundred inventories in this'aurvey’indicates preferences as well as buying practices. Discussion of that analysis follovs. 71 Table XVI. the inventory data on winter coats. shoes that both age groups purchased approximately'the same number of einter coats. More than twice as many senior girls oened teo costs. The seniors also paid more for their costs but sore than approximately the same length of time. Blue and red predominated as the preferred colors. Plain fabric was significantly.preferred to fabric with design. ‘wm Wm gunman Freshmeni Seniors Naming 9; None 5 l o'c'o""a"'1:_s_ One 33 29 , “*" Teo 22 r cs Range ‘Under $15 l? 315 to 20 29 a over $20 2 7 Eite‘g£_ Less than one year 23 36 re so More than one year 37 37 ggigrg Blue 20 2i Red 1% ll Green l Gray' 5 i2 Others 2 Plaid 9 8 gang Plain - ha 6% * Print 2 S 72 Blue was predominately the color choice for the mid- sesson coats. Summarised dots in Table XVII shows that three-fourths of the girls have only one mid-season cost. However. three times as many seniors as freshmen have more than one. The price range in which the two groups purchased was significantly different. Fortybfive of the fortyeeight coats owned by the seniors cost over twenty'dollarss whereas. forty of the fortybfive costs ovned by freshmen girls cost less than twenty dollars. my. _......xvu NEW 2: nae-3.5m 0" m Freshmen Seniors Numhe 0 None 5 2 cos i "" One 140 3 Tee 5 1; Three 0 Erica Range Under- $15 5 $15 to 320 fi 15 0ver $20 to L1; Dats 0 Less than one r 21 38 zircfiiée More than one 3::r 29 26 E2!°£' niue l9 white 6 f? Beige l 9 Red A - 5 Others l9 l5 Plaid u luugyn; Plain 58 5% Print 2 3 73 Table XVlll. a summary on sports Jackets. indicates that nineteen students did not own a sport Jacket; hut sixty'giris owned one; and teentyeone girls owned two Jackets. None of the freshmen girls paid more than ten dollars for a sports Jacket, whereas more than one-half of the Jackets owned by the seniors cost over ten dollars. Beth age groups wore them for approximately the same length of time. Blue and black were the preferred colors. TABLE XVI}; ngw Preshmsn Seniors Humbug 3; None .123 39 :Iacge} One 0 J! Two i0 il Three 2 - 0 $19; Under t S 30 13 an e $5 to $10 2h 17 Over th ' 0 20 De '2;, Less than one year 33 3O . rcha e More than one year 2i 25 Colors Blue 20 it) Black 33 9 Red 10 6 White 3 6 7h Table XIX gives details on another favorite outer- wear garment. the cardigan sweater. it was significant that a comparable number of freshmen and seniors owned one or two cardigan sweaters. however, more seniors had two or more sweaters per individual. Fifty seniors. compared to twelve freshmen girls. owned one sweater in the five to nine dollar ninetybnine price range. The majority of freshmen girls purchased sweaters costing five dollars and less. Although blue was the predominant color choice, many other colors 'were popular. Orion.wes the fiber choice of both groups for cardigan sweaters. 1m: 5;; gmmonx 9; magnum 5m ms Freshmen Seniors Number 9-; None 7 h Sweaters One 2i lh Two 20 25 Three or Four 2 7 gzice Range $0 to 3 h.99 52 i9 55 ' i 9.99 22 so 07" $l°e 1 “4. Gift 2 5 Date .9; Less than one year 11,2; 72 [greases more than one year 23 lb Color! Blue 22 20 Red 13 12 White l2 ii Beige 8 16 Green 6 ll Block . i i2 Brown 5 6 Elgar Orion 37 55 Nylon 20 28 “EEUL _fl 9&9 _Ji.._._.. Table xx indicates that twice as many seniors as freshmen girls owned a raincoat. None of the freshmen girls paid over ten dollars for this garment while more than one-half of the seniors paid more than that amount. 75 ThBLE‘fig [EEENTORILQE_BAINCOAI§ Freshmen Seniors Number of None 35 20 a ncoe One i5 29 A Two 0 l P cs Ran s Under $10 15 8 ‘J'L‘TJ" Over no 0 17 Gift 0 S Date‘gg Less than one year 8. 19 Purchase Here then one your 7 ll - Colors White 3 6 Blue 3 8 Green 2 6 Beige h 5 Gray' 3 5 76 The significance of age was apparent in the number of suits owned. See Table XXI. The total of thirtybtwo suits. the limited wearing time, and the comparatively low price paid showed that suits were not preferred by;the younger girls. in contrast. oniy'eight seniors did not own a suit, and one-third of them owned two or more suits. Of the suits owned by the seniors an equivalent number paid twenty'dollars or more as compared to those who paid less than twenty'doilars. While bias was again the predominat- ing color choice in both groups, gray and beige were also favored colors. ‘About four-fifths of their salts were of plain fabric, and approximately'onc-flfth‘were of plaid design. TABLE'zfig W 911 m Freshmen Seniors Number 91 None 18 12 Eufis One 32 Two 0 l9 Three or More 0 7 'Prgcc Range under $20 29 35 $20 to $30 1 17 Over $30 0 19 Gift. 2 7 'Dato‘gg Less than one year 29 #5 rchasc More than one year i 33 Colors Blue 16 30 Gray h 17 Beige 2 17 Pink 7 7 Others 3 18 Design. Plain 2i 65 Plaid 9 ll Print 0 2 _r v. Only eleven of the fifty freshmen interviewed had wool dresses in their wardrobe. According to Table XXil 77 nearly'three times as many seniors as freshmen girls owned wool dresses, and fifteen of the thirty owned more than one. None of the younger girls paid over $20, but one-third of the wool dresses owned by the seniors cost over that amount. Blue remained the favorite color.sdth brown ranking as their second choice. see almost a unanimous choice. Number‘gg WOO P8558! - W ggice Range ZABEE XXI! 1mm? 9; woa. onsssss None One Over two Under $10 $10 to $20 $21 to 30 Ovor 30 Less than one year more than one year \ Blue Brown Pink Others Plain Plaid . Print Freshmen u '4 g s-- 0-. NO aroma Oe- OON-P' Os- Plain design in fabric l9 16 15 6 3h 12 38 22 20 11 7 22 6O 8 5 Seniors 78 Table XXlii bears evidence to the successful promo- tion and the popularity'of cotton fabrics. if this study is indicative of teen-age preferences. it is safe to say’ that the average seventeenwyear-oid girl owns at least three cotton dresses. and her fourteen-year-old sister osns at least tee. More than one-half of the dresses owned by the older girls cost over ten dollars while about five-sixths of those osned by the freshmen girls cost less than ten dollars. The preference for many'light and bright colors of plaid or print fabrics sea greater for cotton dresses thanfor any'other type of garment found in their wardrobe. nee 2on1 W 2: m 2.433353 Freshmen Seniors Number'gg’ One l8 4E greases Two 8 l Three 10 ih Four 5 Over four 3 20 [rice Range $0 to 3 .99 6 O om h teigg, Less than one year 75 llO rc ass More than one year 29 514. Color! Blue 30 59 Pink 26 20 Red ll 23 White 6 l5 Others 37 h2 Qagigg Plain Si Plaid . 22 2% Print 31 52 79 Special occasion dresses of synthetic fabric were aorn.more by the older than younger girls. according to the sumarieed data in Table XXIV. Onsothird of the dresses 'worn hy’the freshmen and two-thirds of'the dresses'worn hy senior girls cost over ten dollars. Pink and blue were favored hy'ail the girls. and white was a preferred color of the freshmen girls. WM?” mwwma , Emma lesion Jumbo of None 1 l cs e"" One l3 HE ' Two 7 9 Three 0 5 over three 6 9 ggicg flange $0 to 8 h 99 5 3 $5 to ”0:00 29 21 W0? $60e00 l? 55 Gift 7 9 Dogo'QL’ Less thanone year A6 63 urc as More than one year l2 '25 Cglggg Blue 17 3h Pink 11 15 White Tll % Black A Red 5 5 Others 10 21 9mg; Plain 23 Mt Plaid 9 12 Print 26 22 # ___4 __ f M 80 ‘. Tshle XXV indicstes thst the number of cotton blenses in the eerdrobes or both senior and freshmen groups use can- .psrehle. Beceuee shite blooess were worn'vith the school uniform, the number or shite blouse: did net seem exceed- ingiy high. Esoh girl hsd spproximetely three shite uniform blouses for school seer but en equal number or white or colored blouses for user outside or school. The meJority or blouses owned were perohssed tron.the three to five eeller price rsnge. mm mgmw Freshmen Seniors Number r m S 3 'SIouses'o" Three 1 3 “'m ' Four ' 5 5 Five 19 25 Six ~ 5 5 - over six l9 l6 [rice Range $0 to $2.99 103 30 $3 to $5.00 1&3 i 8 Over $5.00 33 7 ‘ Gift l7 lh Date o~ Less then one er 23k 27 Pfirchize More then one ;:sr 62 5% Colgrs White 160 205 Blue ' uh. 32 Pink 39 28 Red l9 lS , Others 3h 39 Design - Plein, 200 2 l Pisid 3h 30 Print 62 8 ‘ . . 81 The number of synthetic blouses in the wardrobes of both groups indicates that almost one-fourth of the one hundred girls did not own a synthetic blouse. At least one- holf of the group owned at least two. The majority of blouses cost more than four dollars. [Although white was their predominant color choice, other light and bright colors were favored. Nylon, orlon. and dacron.swre the fiber choices; and plain fabric was preferred to plaids or prints. mats xxv: gammy 95 S'm'i‘HETIC 31.01553 W Freshmen Seniors 9* Number 35 None 114. 8 Siousce One 17 15 Two 7 12 Three or more 12' 15 Price Range $0 to $3.99 28 36 over $7.00 0 25 Gift 18 9 Dateugg Less than one year 58 69 'FEFEhaso More than one year 19 29 Colors White no Pink 12 %% Blue 15 12 Green g. 6 Others 18 Fiber Nylon us on Dacron 11 18 Orion 18 10 Rayon 2 6 Design Plain 51 88 ‘ Plaid 18 10 Print 8 0 82 The popularity of shirts in tho teeneage wardrobe is indicated by‘the data in Tables XXVi and XXVii. The one hundred girls interviewed had in their wardrobes a total of three hundred eightybfive cotton skirts and four hundred teentyutwo woolen skirts. The 'average' freshman girl probably owned at least four cotton skirts and three woolen skirts. For the senior girls the ratio of cotton to woolen was in revaree. .Ae for other garments the seniors, in general, paid more for their shirts than the freshmen. .A elder variety’in color and printed fabrics use significantly popular for cotton skirts. The older girl definitely’pre- ferred tho straight line style for her woolen skirts and either gathered or pleated styles for her cotton skirts. The younger girl showad no special etyle preference for her woolen skirts but did prefer the gathered or pleated style in her cotton skirts. mm '— fiw ‘ grmmonx Q: comm SKIRTS Freshmen Seniors Number'gg Oo~2 13 7 sn’ It!!! 3-05 31 29 ' Over 5 6 15 Price Range under $3 25 l 53 to £5 89 9% Over $5 hi 98 .Oiit l2 9 Date ot Less then one ar l78 l5 Eurcfiigs more then one 33a: ho g Cglorg Blue #9 57 Red 21 21 Green 23 13 White i 2i Black lo 18 Others ha 88 Design Plain 56 83 Print 79 .. 9 Pleid 32 3 gtzle Gathered Bl 70 Circular 52 28 Pleated . 85 . 69 TABLE XXVIII‘ w. v-‘v— INVENTORX g WOOL SKIRTS Freshmen Seniors Number 9i O--2 10 it sEIrEs 3--5 3? ho Over 5 O 9 Price Range $0 to $3.99 lh 9 $h to $7.00 132 108 Gift 15 Date 2;} Less than one year 16a ‘ l7h Purchase More than one year 20 63 Cgiors Blue 5h 39 Gray 39 69 Black 35 h9 ‘Brown 22 h3 Green 12 15 Others 22 23 Qeaign Plain 97 l 8 Field Si 8 Print ' 36 l2 a Straight 9 tho m;- Full 33 1&9 Pleated 22 29 85 Judging by the one hundred girls interviewed in this survey, the ’average' teen-age girl owns from three to five sweaters. Orion, nylon, and wool were in that frequency indicated as their choice of fiber. The cashmere sweaters averaged from fifteen to twenty dollars in price while orlon, nylon, and wool sweaters averaged from four to ten dollars in cost. Although blue was their preferred color choice. many other light colors were likewise popular. This data is_summarised in Table XXIX. TABLE XXIX xuvauronrggg_swnnrana ‘_ ‘— Preahmen seniors Number 9-!- one 18 10 awegterg 3..§ 27 31 Over 5 5 9 Price Range $0 to $3.99 39 20 $1.; t. $Se99 63 88 CV“? $6.00 78 Gift 19 :5 Bat ‘21, Less than one year 152 165 are as Here then one year 18 35 Color Blue 55 53 '""""'.' Whi te 32 35 Green 28 ll Pink 2i i; Yellow 17 1 Brown 20 10 Others 23 26 Piggr Orion 92 88 Nylon 36 us Wool 29 5 Dacron 9 Cashmere a lo £6 The inventory of their everyday shoes lacked special significance because saddle shoes were required with the school uniform. Table xxx shoes that most of the girls owned two or more pairs of dress shoes for which they usually paid between five and eight dollars. Senior girls preferred black, white, or brown. The freshmen added blue to the list of favored colors. IABLE‘figfi 1mm 9; monsss aw. Freshmen Seniors Number 3; $3: lg :0 pairs 0 Three 22 l9 Over three 0 ll ' Price Range to to n.99 M 11 $5 to 7e99 57 92 Over 3 .00 . 13 35 Date‘ggl Less than one year 10h lll z§rchgse More than one year 8 21 Colors Black h5 56 "' ” White 29 39 Brosn la l8 Blue 1 8 Others l5 ll CHI: PTER V , This survey was designed to secure specific infor- mation on the purchasing practices and factors influencing choices in the clothing of one hundred high school girls. An equivalent number of freshmen and senior girls was se- lected for this survey to ascertain if clothing choices at the two-age-levels were significantly different. Personal data indicated that the two groups have comparable sects-economic backgrounds. The majority of the fathers were employed as skilled or semi-skilled laborers. Only six out of a total of ninety-three belonged in a pro- fessional classification. Thirtybeight of the one hundred mothers were engaged in fulletimo or part-time‘worh outside the home. More than one-half of these girls case from families with three or less children. thirtybthree from families with three to six children and eleven from families with six or more children. The age of the other children in these families was predominately younger than the inter. viewees. Sixtybeight of the one hundred girls were engaged in part—time employment. it was indicated that eightye five percent of the money they earned was spent for clothing. Responses on the type of garment preferred for ' school wear indicated that the majority preferred the re- quired school uniform. .Although the wearing of the uniform 88 see a requirement. they did not consider it a violation -sf their independence of choice. Both groups felt that the style sea attractive and becoming to the majority of the girls. Minor changes in style or design were suggested. There were no significant differences between the two age groups in their stated preferences in style. color, er design. Color, cost. and style were sf primary concern to the majority of girls. Cost of upkeep and/or ease of care and fiber content ears of relative unimportance. The preferred color for costs, dresses, and sweaters was blue. ‘vhite see preferred for blouses. _ Separates were favored by the freshmen girls for practically all activities. The wardrobe inventory of the seniors showed a wider variety of garments for their re- spective activities. They preferredsweaters and skirts for work, but suits and dresses were preferred for church and social activities. .Approximately‘one-half of the total interviewees felt their personal wardrobes were comparable in number, cost, and style to those of their best girl friends. More freshmen girls felt that they had fewer and less expensive clothes than their peers. .Approxlnatcly forty senior girls regarded their wardrobes as somewhat or very much better than thcir host girl friends. Only twenty freshmen girls thought similarly. 89 Anelyeie or their buying precticee reweeied that epproxineteiy eighty-rive of the one hundred girle per- cheeed all or their clothing reedybmede. ‘ Although the majority indiceted thet they were per- mitted freedom in the eelection or their clothing, eighty girle conenlted with emcne regarding their clothing neede. Perent'u advice wee eoiicited in determining neede end wae eleo eought in melting epecii‘ic eelectione and purcheeee. Hore than three-fonrthe indicated one or beth perente ehopped with then. in their eelectlon ot ciothee.‘i’reehnen girle are influenced by window dieplaye. parente, end the clothing or their girl triende. The out eigniricent tectore of influence en the choicee oi’ the aenier girle were negeeinee end window diepiaye. Data concerning the type of etore patronized revealed thet porcheeee were moat frequently made in neighborhood etoree rether than in the downtown department atoree. Ap- proximately one-third alwaye or frequently peid ceeh tor . the more expeneiwe apparel itene ae coete er eoite. Twenty- eight eeed e charge ecconnt, and thirtybtonr the ley-ewey plan of payment. Minor epperel items ee hoee end lingerie were caah purchaeee. it wee eigniticent that one-half of the eenior girie accepted full financial reeponeibiiity in their clothing expendituree. The perente er the i’reehnen girie peid for all or a part or their clothing. 90 .Analyeie of the one hundred wardrobe inventoriea ehowed that. on the average. every girl owned at leaet one winter coat, mid-eeaeon coat. cardigan eweeter and eynthetic blouee. ‘Approximately'one-fifth of the entire group did not own a eport Jacket, and onevheif did not own a raincoat or 'wooi dreee. Each girl had approximately'three eweetere end two paire of dreee ehoee. tech eenior owned epprenimateiy three cotton dreeeee and each freehnan two cotton dreeeee. On the average, each girl owned three white and three colored bloueee. ,The average freehman girl owned four cot- ton ekirte end three woolen ekirte. The.averege eenior owned three cotton ekirte and four woolen ekirtei findinga in this eurwey indicate that the clothing purcheeee and buying precticee of the high echool etudente in Servite high.8chooi were comparable to thoee etudied by Leaeh in her Milwaukee atudy and Roener in her etudy made in Chicago. Style end color preferencee. evoluation.of their werdrobee in terne of thoee of their peere and in. dependence in ehopping were aimiiar in all of thoee etudiee. The meet eignificant difference wee the higher percentage of readybtodwear purchaeee in the Detroit etudyi Both the Detroit and Milwaukee etudiea indicated greater independence in ehopping among eeniore than wee ehown in the Chicago etudy. 91 CHAPTER VT CONCLUSIONS Baeed on the evaluation of the findinge of thie eur- vey'of clothing preferencee and buying practicee of one hundred high echooi etudente the following conclueione were drawn: 1. 2. . 3. h. S. The group which wae etudied wae honoge~ noue with einiiar eocio-econenic beck- grounde. There wee eigniflcent conformity in the wardrobes of theee girle in the number, type, and kind of germente. For eightybfiwe percent of the girle. the wearing of the echool unifornnwae not coneidered a violation of their in- dependence in choice of clothing. The ecnior girle in thie etudy ehowad eignificantly greater independence in clothing choicee and purcheeee than the freehmen girle. Freshmen girle preferred to dreee elm» 'ilarly to their cleeemetee end eeniore dcelred to conform.to the dreee of their peere but likewiee wanted in- 6. 7. 8. 92 The phyeical and emotional maturity of the individual girl woe reflected in her preferencee in the etyling of_the dreeeee etudied. . I thie eurvey hae indicated to the inwee- tigator a needfor curriculun revieien in the clothing coureee in Servite High School; namely; greater enphaeie on con- euner buying of reedybto-oear. more -emphaeie on principlee of clothing ee- lection, and alteration of readybtodwear ae a part of clothing conetruction coureee. Student reeponeee in thie eurvey'ehow' eignificant conformity to the findinga of comparable etadiee in the clothing practicee of teen-age girle. BIBLIOGRAPHY 93 9h BlBLiOBRAPl-i‘! Booke Briaco N. A. and Wingate J. W. Retail selling New 'York, Prentice-Hall incu'iGES. . Dyer Elizabeth Tax 1 hr cs Chicago Houghton Mifflin t 3 : ”1.7.3.1.: 12.4.4 n “Ye Plugel. J. 6.. The W 3; Clothee, London. llogerth ' PTOII, 1m. Hurlock Elizabeth Adoloogent Dcvelo out New York ficGraw-i-lilffloo ompany, Inc... m5. ' Nyetrom. Paul H” Economlce g; Faehio , New York. Ronald Prose Company. " . Nyetron, Paul H. Economic g; Retailing, New York Ronald Preea Company. “59. ' Journal Articlee Bayor. Stephanie and mybourn, Marjory. ”Third. Clothing and Textile Seminar ' Journal 3; Home Ecgnomice. 1.2 (December. 1950 Po 863a Coleman, Frances, “How High School Glrie Buy Clothin ,' Journal of Home Economice. 3i (February, l939 . pp. §¢lfimp Hartman; GeorgoJW” 'gloth’iing, Poreonnl Prfilfle endtmiel eeue ourna 9.... o2! Econom ca. une pp. 255‘2930 ' ' llerteler. Alwnde, ‘Problene of the Normal Adoleecent Girl.“ California ournal g; Secondeu Education, is 0 ruary; . pp. 115:1 e O'Brien; Ruth 'Buyln for the Family " ourno of home E¢°fl9mi6‘g 22 mrch' 193°). 9;. We... Read. Katherine, 'Clothee Help Build Pereonalit ," carnal 2; Home Bconomice. 112 (May, l950), p. I43 . 95 ' Stone, Gregory P., Form, William H.. and Strahan. liaael 3., “The Social Climate of Decieion in Sho ing for Clothee.” ournel g Home Economicg. thil'ebruary, 1994-)! lip-£85387 ' , Thor, Eathcr and Cowloe. M. 0., i'llow'Women Select Dreaeee.‘ gournalIE§gHomo gcgnomice, 25 (Auguet. l9h3). pPe "' a: -. ‘ '. Public Documents . 1950 Cenaua of Population, volume ll Charac- teristics of the PoFlation, Part _I 0.1. gamma, "3.8!;Ingson. g a. n . “b7'C’ taEee Governmznt r n ng OfflCO, 19530 Unpublished Material Cobb, Nellie. 'Some Factore influencing Clothing satie- factione and Dleeatiefactione of High School Girle in Lee County High School. Auburn, Alabama," Un- published master'e Theeie..nlabama Polytechnic lnetltute, Auburn. l9Sl. Coleman. Mergeret.ndeline. 9An.Anelyele of the Reeponei- bilitiee of the Firet-Year Homemaking Teacher with implicatione for Teacher Education." Unpubliahed Doctor'e Dissertation, Teachere' College, Columbia Univerelty. New York. 1994. Cellar, Ruth. RA'Stady'of the Clothing Planning. Selecting and Buying Practices of Homemaking 1 Girls in Se- lected urban.Areae of Michigan.“ Unpubliehed Haeter'e Problem, Michigan State College. Eaet Laneing. l953. Cooper, Mahal, "The Development and Evaluation of an interview’Schedule. Materiale and Procedurae for Preferences and Buying Practicee in Girls' Outer- wear.“ Uhpubliehed Maeter'e Theeie. Michigan state College, 1955. helman, Lola. 'The Raletionehip of Color and Line of Dreee to the Pereonaiity of High School 0irle."Unpubiiehcd Maeter'o Thoeie, Drexel institute of Technology) Philadelphia, l9h6. 96 Holmblade,.A. J.,‘9A.Con arative Study of the Clothing.Area of the Secondary' omemahing Curriculum in a Selected Community and Related Beliefs and Practicea of Pumi- liee in that Community," ‘Unpubliehed Doctoral Theeie, unchigan State College, l95h. Hovermele, Ruth, 'Factore.Affacting the Clothing Purchaaee of High School Home Economice Studente with impli- catione for Coneumer Buying,‘ unpublished Heater'e Theeie, Ohio State Uhivereity, l95h. Hing, Bernice, in Study of the Role of Clothing in Family Relationehipe in Twent Pive Selected Pamiliee ' Unpublished Meeter'e T eeie, Michigan State College, Beet Laneing, l9h9. teaeh, Grace, in Survey of the Clothing Preferencee and Buying Precticee of too Girle of weet Divieion High School in Milwaukee, Wiaconoin,' Unpubliehed Maeter'e Theeie, Michigan State College, 1953. ,Moyer, Louiea, ”The Clothing Practices of a Selected Group of Kaneae Senior High School Girle,' Unpubliehed Mheter'e Theeie, Haneae State College, Manhattan, l9hh. Reed, Kathryn 3., !A Study of Coneumer Purchaeee of a Se- lected Group of Young Adolescente,’ Uhpuhliahed Maeter'e Theeia, Florida State Univereity, l9h6. Reid, Doria Jean, ”A Study of the Clothing Practicee of Urban High School Girle,‘ Unpubliehed Maeter'e Thalia, Virginia Polytechnic lnetitute, Blackeburg, l9Sl. Richardeon, Marigene, WA Study of the Clothing Planning, Selecting and Buying Practicee of Homemaking l Girle in.Reimbureed Schoole in Selectod.Areae,' Unpubliehed Heater'e Problem, Michigan State College, Beet Laneing, l9S3. Roener,.Anna T., in Survey of the Clothing Preferencee and Buying Practices of too Girle of Rooeeveit High School in Chicago, illinoia,‘ Unpubliehed Heater'a Theaie, Michigan State College, l95h. Silverman, Sylvia, “Clothing end.Appeerance, Their Peycho- logical lmplicatione for Toenqngc Girle," Contri- butione to Education No. 912, New York, Bureau of P;£§icatione. Teacher'e College, Columbia Univereity, . h 97 Smith,.Alme, QApperel Buying Mbtivee and Habite of High School Girle of Dee Mbinee, lone,“ Unpubliehed Maeter'e Thceio, Drake Uhivereity; Dee Moinee, 1950. VanSyckle, Calla, 'Practicee Followed by'Coneumer in Buyb in 'Large Expenditure items! of Clothln Furniture, an Equipment,” Technical Bulletin No. , Beat Laneing,.Agriculturai Experiment Station, Michigan State College, June, l9Sl. warning, Margaret, “The implicatione of Social Claea for Clothing Behavior: The.Acquiaition and uee of Apparel for Girle Seven, Eight, and Nine Yeare of Age in Three Social Ciaeaee in Dee Moinee, lowa,‘l Unpubliehed Doctoral Theeie, Michigan State University, l956. APPENDE X A 99 nRSOHAL DATA Name _# wfi_ ‘w u Aoq_____ 1. Father's occupation full time___part time___ 2. Mother'e occupation full timeth time+_ 3. ‘With when do you live? Parents (___). Mother (____) Father (____), Step-mother (__), Step-father (___) Number of eietero older than you Number of elatere younger than you______ Number of brothers older than you Number of brothere younger than you_____ Other: (show relationship, if any) h. How'many'eietere and brothers do you have who are not living at homcl Number of cistere older than you‘fi _A Number of aietere younger than you Number of brothere older than you ’ Number of brethere younger than you______ 5. Birthplace of fatherw ‘WW Birthplace of mother W Languages apoken at homew‘ w 6. Have you been employed within the last year? Tha(__), No (___) if yes, after echooll (__), Saturdays? L__) ieet eummer (__) ' ’ 7. 8. 9. 10. ll. 100 Average earninge per hour per week What kind of work did you dol#_ How did you epend thie money'which you earned? 1. . 2. 3. 3 in A _A _._._._ A _— vw— _— h.__”. ‘5. - Could you indicate the proportionate amount for each of the above? ‘ l. 2. 3. - — w w. W —v—'—v— W _ he n_5i i—w *1 —V... ‘ Below'are acme queetione concerning your interact in your own appearance and in your clothing. Generally epeaking, do you approve of your own pereonal appearance? Yee(___), No (___) ‘ Do you feel that your clothes are comparable to your friende' and echoolmetee' in the number that you have? to: (__), No-(__) in the variety that you have? we. L__), No (__) Do you have ae many sweaters, bloueee, and ekirte ea you would like? You ( ), No (__) Do you have no many play clothee ee you would like? Yea (___), No (___) Do you have aa many party dresses as you would likel Yea L), 'No L) I For what occaeione are you particularly interested in being well 'dreeeedlww #4 12. 13. 1h. 15.1 16. 101 in what group activities in school do you participate? _A.‘_. _— 4-“ Do you feel you have appropriate clothes for these occaeions? ‘Yee (__), No (__) ' in what group activities outside of school have you participated? .Lk .4— A A —~——— WW...— , W Do you feel you have appropriate clothes for these occasions? ‘Yea (__), No (__) Do you seek the opinion of othera as to what to wear on special occasions? Frequently (__), Seldom (__) 102 APPENDIX B 1. 2. 3.. S. 163 CLOTHING PREFERENCES AND BUYING PRACTICES Would you prefer to wear street clothes rather than the uniform for school? Yea (___) No (___) Do you think the uniform.which hae been choeen by the principal for echool wear in attractive in appearance! Yea (__) No (‘_) Do you think that this uniform in a becoming etyie for the majority of the girls? You (___) No (__) Do you think that the initial cost of your unifonm and replacement coote needed during the four yeere of High School is more expensive L_) less expensive Q__) about the name ea (_1 the coat of echool clothing worn by your friende in Public School? Would you like to see the present style of the echool uniform changed? if so, indicate specific changea you would like to sea made. Jacket Skirtnn Blouee Hat , i Style of shoe 6- 7.. 8. 9. 10. 1014, 'Do you like the ehede of nevy blue in your echool Jechet end ekirtl Yee (__) No (_J Would you ‘prefer the Jocket end ekirt to be of enother color then nevy blue? Yee (__) No (__) if yee, whet color would you prefer Do you like the I'Ship end Shore' bloueee worn with the uniform? Yee (_) No (__) lfxyee. would you prefer (._) piein white (__) plein colored if colored. uhet color would you prefer_ Do you like the febrio of which the bloueee ere model You (__) h’o (_) lieve you found thet the reyon-decron aeberdine febric ueed in the ehirt end Jeoket given Setiefectory eervice Yee (._) No (__) Why? is may to core for Yee (__) No (_) Why! 4“ __ A A Do you find it neceeeery to preee your ekirt frequently eo eeto preeent e neet eppeerencel Yee (__) No (__) Do you feel thet the eeddle oxford ie the moot eetiefeo- tory type of ehoe to be worn with your echool uniform? Yee (_J No (___) le there eny other type of ehoe which you would prefer to weer with the uniform? ii. 12. 13. clh. 105 Do you feel unheppy in weering garmente to echool thet ere not of your own choice end etylei Yee (__) No (_1 if you were given e choice, would you prefer to continue to weer the echool uniform? Yee (_) No (__) Stete reeeone: _‘___ _“ _.__._ Do you coneult with enyone ehout your clothing neede or puroheeeel Yee (___)- No (__) if you. whom do you ooneultl in o Are you permitted to buy your clothee without coneulting with your mother. or enother member of the femilyl (__) frequently (__) seldom (___) Never When ehopping. if you end your mother dieegree upon the etyle end colorof e epecific germent, who ueuelly nekee the that decieion? w if you end your mother heve had differencee of opinion no to the eelection of e epeoifie cement. will you indicete in ehet epecific fectore you dieegree M V *— 106 l5. Check the following clothing iteme moot frequently - 16. ‘ Sweatere' ',Skirte . purcheeed byi Youreelf Mother Only Winter Coot Suit ' Bloueee ' . 7 Dreeeee Slips ' Hosiery Shoee Coete Suite ‘ L.) i...) L.) . £'_) . L.) L...) L.) L.)~ Street Clothes Perty'Ciothoe Bloueee . Skirted Swoutere L.) L.) L.) L.) L) -L..) L.) - L.) L.) - L.) Which of your permeate were purcheeed ready-model ‘ L) L...) L.) .(-¥J A(__) (~ )- * L.)- You end You end both mother perente L.) L.) L.) L.) L.) (__-_) L.) CCCCCCCCC Frequently Usually ‘ Never .CCCCCCC L_) L.) (._) L.) (_) L.) L.) i...) 17. 18. 19. 107 Do you frequently hove to hove elteretiene node on reedy- thoeer germente which you buy? Yee (_l he (__) if you. ere elteretlono mede eti etore Yee (__) No(__) V 1 home , You (_J No(__) if not eltered et the etore, who ueuelly deee the I elteretionel Myeelf (-_) Mother (__) Other member of the femily (__) Dreeemeher (___) , When you think of your entire werdrobe. et whet type of etore would you eey moot of the item hove been pur- cheeedl ’ Ueuelly Seldom Never mummmnf Kern'e, Crowley'e L.) (__) (_) Downtown Specielty shops ee L‘erner.= Hemilhoch (_) . (__) L.) A Neighborhood Deportment Stores ee Pederel'e. Montgomery Werd'e. Seere' L_) L.) L.) Neighborhood Specielty ' shops L...) L.) L) Order by mail-‘- Montgomery Word, Seere (_J (__) L) Do you look in eeverel etoree before mehing e meJor clothing purcheeel (_) Frequently (___) Seldom (___) Never 108 20. Check the five influencee lieted below'ehich you con- eider es heving greeteet importence in your eelection of clothing. i_.) L.) L.) L.) (_J Neuopepere Megeeinee_ Store Pattern books mail Order Ceteiogo Store Window diepleyo Perente Selee Clerk Style shove Beet girl friend Clothing worn by beet girl friend 2i. {Are meJor items of clothing, ee coat or euit. purcheeed 22. at special or clearance eeieez ( ) Frequently L__) seldom (__) Never in purchasing e ekirt or blouse which factors most frequently'influonce your choice? Brand name Color Cost of upkeep- Eeee of cere ) Fiber content Price Style Workmenehip Similer to friend's Skirt CCCCCCCC ' w i..) L.) L.) L.) L.) L_.) L.) L.) L.) Blouee 109 23. What garments do you try on before making e purchase? Frequently Seldom Never Coot L.) L.) L.) Suit L.) L.) L.) Dreeo, cotton (__) (__) (___) ' Dress, date (__) (__) (__) Blouoc ,L_) (_J (___) Sweeter (__) (___) (__) Wool okirt (___) L.) (___) 21;... Who peyo for your clothee? All Port None Peronto (__) (___) (___) self L.) (__) L...) Gift (___) (__) (__) 25. How do you pey for your clothing? e. Minor iteme ouch eo’ lingerie. hooe. blouoeo (_J Cosh ~ (__) Charge account (___) Loy-ewey with lnotellment paymento - b. iieJor itemo ouch ee_coeto, ouito. perty dreeoeo L) Ceoh (__) Cherge eccount (___) Ley-uwoy with inotellment peynento 26. 27. 28. Would you like to spend considerably more (__) somewhat more (__) somewhat loco L) coneiderebly leoo (__) than you are now opending on clothool How do you feel your clothes compare with thoee of your Very beot girl friend? Number Coot Style Very much better (.__) i...) L.) Somewhat better (__) (__) L_) Same as (___) (_J L.) Somewhat icoo then L.) L.) i...) Not nearly as well as (__) (__) (_) 110 What is the color and the design in the.febrio in your Plein Plaid fig; ggigt Winter Coet . L.) L.) L_) L.) Spring Coat L.) L.) i...) L) Favorite ouit (,_) (._) L.) L.) Favorite biouoe L.) L.) L.) (._) reverite oneter L.) L.) i...) L.) Favorite skirt L.) (._) L.) L.) Favorite dreee ‘ (__) (__) L.) L...) Why io thie okirt your favorite: 1' 1 _- w—v ill Why io thie blouoe your favorite? ,_. Why lo thio dreoo your favorite? 29. Do you have any item in your wardrobe which previouoly belonged to eomeone eloe? Do you like or dislike them? Garment Like Dielike Reaoon i...) i...) L.) L.) W v _F L.) L.) 30. Do you hovo garmento in your werdrobc that you oeldon wear? Garment Reeoon 31'. What type of garmento do you uoually weer: To Church on For Social Sunday To Work Activitieo Blouoeo or eweetero with okirto L.) i...) i...) A Dresses (wool, our. oynthetio) (___) L.) L.) ‘ .Dreeeee (cotton) L...) L.) _L.) ,suite L.) L.) L.) Why do you make the. above choice for Church wear in preference to the othero lloted? _ A 32. 33- 3h. 35. 112 Why do you make the above choice for work in preference to the othero lioted? Why do you make the above choice for oocial activitieo in preference to the othero listed?. Have you ever oeen any type of garment worn at a echool dance or party'which you conoidered unouiteble for the occaoion? V _. _— Havo you ever open eny type of garment worn at e beokoto ball or football game which you considered unoultable for the occasion? Have you ever ooen any type of garment worn while ehop- ping in downtown Detroit which you conoidered unouiteble for the occaoion?_WV __ _ For what occasiono do you regard the following garmento eo unouiteble and improper? Bermuda ohorta__ ‘ Slacko Sun dreooeo A._ ‘What to the price range of the cotton dreooeo that you purcheoe? $2 to $5___ $6 to $7.... $8 to 39“ Over 39 What lo the price range of the party dreooeo that you purchaoe? $7 to tic“ ill to llh____ $15 i°-$ZO____ Over $20___ 113 [zefgrggceg LE Ready-town" 36- 37. 38. 39- 110a In. For atyle or deaign which of the'olx dresses would you choose for chOpping downtown? D x;__ D u____ Dlll___ 1) iv___ DV_ 1) v1___ ‘Which of these six dresses do you like the least? 9 x___ n 11___ D m” 0 iv___ o v____ 0 vi_____ in aelecting a dresa for a more formal aocial occaaion which do you like the beat? D Vll__ D Vlli___ D 1X___ D x__ I Which of theae dreeaea do you think would be auitable to wear to a aociai echool affair? D Vll___ D Vlll__ D ix__ D X___ Do you think any of the other dreaaea you have aeen would be auitable for thia type of wear! Social echool affairs D l__ D ll__ D lll__.D N- D V___ D Vl___ Evening date: D l__ D ll___ D lll___ D lV___ D V___ D Vl___ Do you object to the decoration or trim on any of then aix dreaaea? Yea (___) No (_1. if yea, which one or once do you object to and why v Do you like the color of any one of theae dreaaea better than the othera'i Yea (__) No (__) if yes, which I Do you dislike the color of any one of theae dreaaeal Yes (__) No (__) If yes. which one h3o hS. 1L6. .117. 11.8. 11h. Do you think the workmanship on any one of theae dreaaea ie auperior to the others? Yes ( 1 No ( ) if yea, why W W# W fl . Which of the air: dreeaea do you feel haa the pooreat workmanahipl * _Jihy do you feel thie haa poor worlunanahip‘i M M M Do you think that the workmanahip on any one of these dreaaea la better than that of the others? You (__) No (__) if yea, which do you conaider haa the beat workmnnahip and whyw w , l Do you think the fabric in any one of theee dreaaea ia superior to the othera‘i Yea (_J No (__) if yea. which“ you think haa auperior quality n Do you think that D l. D ll, and D 111 will launder equally well and keep their original appearance? Yea (__) No (l ) if no, atate reaaon W A ; L ‘ _ ____ W V ___r fw M Do you think that D W, D V, D V1 will launder equally well and keep their original appearance? Yes (__) No (__) if no, atate reaaon _m M ___‘ . ‘_—_k ____‘ Which of theae dreaaea do you feel could not be laun- dered and would need dry cleaning“! D Vll__ D Vlll___ 1) ix :3 x___ What doea the label on dreaa D Vii mean to you? w ——v What does the label on dross D x mean to you? w vvw “1 WW h9. in terms of price of these dressca, which do you think is the best value for the money? 23 x___ n n__ mu_ 0 IV__ n v__ nv1__ 50. Which of the four dresses do you think is the best value for its price? D Vll__ D Vlll___ D IX_'__ D X__ 116 APPENDIX C 117 lNVENTORY' H c o tective Date of '3 '3' 5 Deecription armed; Purchaae Coat Color Fabric 3 s: 8: of atyle Winter Coat Midaeaaon Sport . Cardigan Raincoat ' __ __ Outer ‘ mitts Dreaaee 118 ,.Deacri tion a of aty a Date of Purchaae O O U ge- Dreaaee.of cotton IIIIIII Dreaees of synthetic ,v Blouaca of cotton a” fl e- ‘ 0 I I I 1 HHIIH Illll'll‘l'lH-l? I I‘IIIIHI Date of Purchase Skirta cotton Skirta wool and othera Sweaters Shoes Dreae ll HHH Coat II!!! III!!! III! Hill! Hill I!!! HIHHIH O . O on 0 ’I Fabric ‘5 ~00 31o Plain Plaid 119 eacri tion f aty e ‘ . afATE UNI‘V'ETPS'rv ) 302845 9380