THE RELATIONSHIP OF SPECIFICATIONS T0 SERVICEABILITY AND COST IN SELECTED TYPES OF DAMASK TABLE LINENS Thesis for the: Degree of M. A. MICHIGAN STATE COLLEGE R. .Eune Ericson I949 I l Thlsistocertifgthatthe thesis entitled "The Relationship of Specifications to Serviceability and Cost in Selected Types of Damask Table Linens" presented by R. June Ericson has been accepted towards fulfillment of the requirements for "LA... __..degree inimil‘zLand Clothing wemw Glajor professor Date February 25, 1949 _ . . . f,“ ..y.« r ' ' 'o " “v. .. I .- a I U THE RELATIONSHIP OF SPECIFICATIONS TO SERVICEABILITY AND COST IN SELECTED TYPES OF DAMASK TABLE LINENS By R. JUNE Egrcsoxt A THESIS Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan State College of Agriculture and Applied Science inzpartial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS Department of Textiles, Clothing, and Related Arts 1949 ACKNOWL EDGE-{HIT Applied research studies as comprehensive in scope as the Hichigan' State College Experiment Station Tablecloth Study necessitate the effort and time of many persons. To all who have had a part in bringing the study to completion, I wish to express my appreciation. To Miss Hazel Strahan, who has directed the study from its inception, I am especiallyr indebted for her many helpful suggestions. The Textile Research Staff of Michigan State have made possible the writing of this thesis through assistance with the testing and initial computations of the raw data. The Home Economics Staff of Ohio State University were most generous. in permitting their textile laboratory to be used for the completion of certain parts of the study. TABLE OF CONT HITS Page INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 REVIEW OF LITERATURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 MATERIALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Nontechnical Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Procedures for Determining Specifications . . . . . . . . . 18 Laundry Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . .‘. . . . . . 25 Post-laundry Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 DISCUSSION OF RESULTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Specifications of Original Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Performance of Damasks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 CONCLUSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 S LI: [I'm 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O NI 0\ LIT RATURE CITE O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O APPE‘IDIX O 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 0 O O 0 $352.38 Plates 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O cmrt B O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 0 Co \1 Tables 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 91 INTROHJCTION The twentydthree tablecloths and one hundred napkins constituting the six groups under immediate consideration.in this thesis were a part of a more comprehensive Michigan.State College Experiment Station re- search study of table linens. The larger study was divided into two major categories for analysis and eventual publication. The table linens to be discussed in.this thesis had as a constant factor, a damask weave. These tablecloths and their accompanying napkins were woven of cellulose acetate rayon, linen, cotton, and a combination of cotton and viscose rayonpyarns. The tablecloths in the second division, not herein dis- cussed, contained fabrics of various weaves and fibersnincluding spun: rayons and blends. The study was begun in 1945. All purchases of materials were made during that year with.the exception.of three sets of cellulose acetate tablecloths and napkins purchased in.l948 which to all outward appear- ances were identical to the table linens numbered one through.three. At the time the.study was initiated, the purchase of tablecloths was limited by the fact that numerous fabrics and qualities previously available had disappeared from the market as a result of the critical wartime shortage of consumer textiles. A second difficulty encountered was the procure- ment of sufficient quantities of similar tablecloths within groups to lend validity to the study. Until very recently the Irish damask.was the traditional dining table covering of elegance and had remained practically unchallenged for I’ll .-.|‘[:nl’ll|\l[[l[[ .l llll several generations. Cottonrdamasks were more commonly used. Table linens were not only conventionalized as to style but also woven almost exclusively of cotton or linen..fibers.. Both'fikinds of damasks were semi- standardized as to yarn and weave construction. The color was more often white than not. The predictive performance of table linens was; based more or less upon quality represented to some extent by their con- parative cost. Constant use of and association with the conventional linens furnished the housewife with some additional information predic- tive of service, but it was based upon rather unscientific deductions. There was, in fact, a dearth of scientific investigation as to the per- formance to be expected from the conventional linens. Over the period of the past several years, a variety of fabrics of the newer fibers has been placed on the market. Frequently novelty 'yarn and weave constructions appeared. The tendency has been to promote fiber and fabric innovations before their performance characteristics are es- tablished through adequate research. Expressions of consumer dissatis- factionhave been heightened by the use of fabrics for purposes for which they were not designed. Unfortunately there was an increased use of any fabric available irrespective of its intended purpose during the wartime shortage of textiles. Not a few of the new fibers and novelty construc- tions have been used as table linens. The traditional damask weave has been :used throughout the table fabrics considered in this thesis, but it is to be noted thatfila- ment rayon'alone and incombination with cotton has been‘introduced. While these fibers have received consumer acceptance, it is no more 7. possible to predict their performance from past experience than when they are used in any of the other recently introduced fabrics. A host of explanations may be cited as to the factors which have brought about the change in the styling of table linens. The introduc- tion of new fibers and novelty weaves has already been mentioned. Style and fashion trends in.twentieth century architecture and interior fur- nishings effected changes in china, glassware, and table silver. Also a decided change in the kmerican.mode of living has occurred during the previous two decades. The advent of the smaller family group led to the elimination of the dining room.in.many instances; and entertaining, of necessity, became less elaborate,and tableware became less formal. Keeping pace with changing needs and style trends, table linens also became less formal and more colorful. Thus was the element of fashion: introduced into table appointments. The performance of the new table linens could not be predicted on the basis of past consumer experiences; nor was there much pertinent inr formation available from labels, where they existed, or from salespeople. The urgency, consequently, for some scientific basis for evaluation of table linen purchases was intensified. Furthermore, little or no scien- tific study of specifications of the traditional linens had been made. Only a few consumer textile commodities, in fact,_have to date been“ studied in relation to specifications and performance in use. It was for these reasons, primarily, that the Michigan State College table- cloth study was initiated; and an investigation of the performance of various types of table linens found on the current market begun. A subjective analysis was to be made throughout the study for ob- servable signs of wear, change in appearance, ease of care, and dura- bility of heme; items which represent consumer satisfaction. Observa- tions relative to the progressive effects of laundry upon the fabrics of various fibers were to be made at specified intervals. An.analysis of data based on specifications and performance would provide a scien— tific basis for comparing the different fibers. The subjective and scientific analyses together would result in.valid criteria for more intelligent selection.cf table linens by the consumer. It was also hoped that suggestions of value to the trade might.be made as to con? struction.features desirable ithextile fabrics for table use insofar as the element of fashion will permit standardization, The specific objectives of this laboratory study from.which cone clusions and recommendations will be drawn are included in the follow- ing points: 1. To compare and predict the probable serviceability of the six groups of tablecloths and napkins of cellulose acetate rayon,. linen, cotton, and a combination of cotton and viscose rayon through an analysis of laboratory test data 2. To analyze and compare the physical properties of the new cloths with those same properties after fifty launderings 5. To relate specifications to performance characteristics after fifty launderings for the different types comprising the groups 4. To evaluate these table linens onwa performance-price relation: ship 5. To compare the specifications and performance of one type of fabric purchased in 1945 with the same type purchased in 1948 REVIEN OF LITERATURE As has been stated previously, this study of tablecloths and napkins was begumbecause their construction was not standardized and because of the lack of scientific studies of any magnitude dealing with table linens. The one previous investigation conducted at Purdue University was a wear and laundry study of napkins. Studies related through common features to the research project under discussion; however, will be cited in: this section. In the Purdue otudy52 napkins of linen; cotton, and a combination of cotton and rayontwere used in a college dormitory for a period of thirtydtwo weeks. Sumner found in general that weight per square yard was significant in the cost of the napkins but not in'their serviceability. There was no relationship between weight and the elements of shrinkage, soluble sizing, yarn count, or yarn number. After thirty-two weeks service, the cotton and linen fabrics showed losses in breaking strength; but the rayon filling yarns in four cases out of five showed a gain and not a loss in strength. This indicated that wear and laundry over the: period of the study caused less less of strength in rayon tlmn in cotton or linen. The loss in breaking strength of the linen fabrics positively‘ correlated with loss in weight per square yard. Because linen-is a some- what brittle fiber, a loss of fibers occurs in laundering and wear. Cot- ton and cotton and rayon napkins with only one exception showed a gain. in weight which was probably due to shrinkage. The linen napkins shrank the least. The greatest shrinkage occurred in. the warp direction-of the cottonuand cotton and rayon::mixtures. Excessive shrinkage of the cotton warp yarns was due apparently to tension during weaving and finishing. Greater shrinkage occurred in the napkins sent to the college laundry. than in those laundered in the laboratory even though the temperature in the latter procedure was 50 degrees hotter. The increased breaking strength of the rayon filling yarns after the final laundry seemed to occur partly as a result of the shrinkage of the cotton warp yarns. This increase in breaking strength was accompanied by an increased filling yarn count. Deterioration was. greatest in linen fabrics as indicated by the loss of both breaking strength and weight per square yard. Cotton fabrics with a permanent finish tendedto deteriorate the least. The rayon ;and cotton mixtures were cheaper than linen, but would give poor service because the hams frayed. After thirty-two weeks service, the linens were still attractive and the cottons retained their permanent finish. Some of the rayon and cotton mixtures had faded from corn to cream, and two of the five looked worn and thin. The next two studies were conducted at the University of Missouri and were reported by Pauline E. Kearney. In comparing the quality of cotton dress fabricsla purchased in 19% and in 1915,; she found that a there were fewer types of fabrics and less yardage available and that? prices had incresed somewhat by 1943. No perceptible difference was noted in the weight of fabrics when compared according to type or the year they were purchased. Greater amunts of water. soluble sizing were used in 1943. Little difference in shrinkage was noted in the two years. The majority of fabrics tested during both years had over 2 per cent shrinkage in both length and width. The increased strength of fabricss purchased in 1945 probably resulted from the use of coarser and stronger yarns. Color losses were slightly more frequent after laundering in 1942, but color losses from light were more frequent in 1945. As late as Feb— ruary, 1943, the quality of dress fabrics had been affected very little by wartime measures. The second study conducted at Missouri17 compared the differences of drapery fabrics available in 1942 and 1945. There was a decided de- crease in the number of materials which were available in the later year. As few fabrics containing linen and rayon-mere available, they were con- siderably more expensive than fabrics of cotton alone. Price was found to give no indication of durability. Factors such as type and quality;- cf yarn, weave, color, and designrzas well as manufacturing cost all im- fluenced price. There was little relationship between weight and con- structionsand durability because of the wide variation in the strength and structure of the yarns. A marked difference in the range of yarn: counts of fabrics purchased in the two different years was noted. The range for 1945 was considerably lower. The decrease in strength which. was expected to accompany the lower yarn count'was not apparent to amp.- great extent, but there was a greater shrinkage from both laundry and dry-roleaning which might be attributable to the lower yarn counts in) the later year. There was slightly less fastness of color in the fabrics purchased .in 1945. Any labels which implied fastness and quality of dyes: used were found to meanlittle when actual tests‘were performed on these fabrics. A comparative study of price and performance of wearing apparel textiles was conducted at Pennsylvania State College by Davis7. The compilations of data were made for certain cotton and viscose rayon. fabrics for the years extending from 1955 to 1941. Changes in price, construction, and performance were recorded. Comparisons of prices were made with the cost of living index insofar as it related to cloth- ing, commodities, and services. It was found that in some instances an average rise in the price of fabrics was accompanied by some im- provanent of durability factors but this was not always the case. If prices remained level in spite of a cost of living increase, there was: a tendency for some performance factors to become lower. The maintena- ance of the price level with a rising living cost seemed to indicate the price level was kept at the expense of some of the qualities of the fab- rics. In spite of price considerations, there were some improvements in performance factors through the years which probably occurred as a result of technological advances. In 1957 a study of the standardization of textile fabrics was made by Halal-5. The constant development of new textile products for indi- vidual and household use marketed without any definite information as to quality and performance had made. wise selection-increasingly diffi- cult. Hale advocated standardizationand labeling to aid constmersiin- making purchases. While twelve years have elapsed since the writing of the dissertation and many of the recommendations have been put into _. effect, there is still much room for further standardization of textile‘ merchandise. The need fer dissemimtion. of merchandise informationis even greater today. Ashcraft2 warns against using textile laboratory tests as final measures of quality in promotional copy and on labels. His article, "The Interpretation of Laboratory Tests as Quality Indices int-Textiles,“ points out further that identification of fiber has no relation in many instances to durability or other consumer values. Two studies have been carried out at Pennsylvania State with re- grd to the relationship betweenzconstruction' and durability. Roseberry. in reporting an investigationof ninety-five filament viscose rayonu fabrics” indicated that dry and wet filling breaking strengths in- creased with the use of coarser filling yarns and yarns of a high fila- ment count. Increased twist inufilling yarns was associated with a de- crease in strength. Unmeasured factors which may have accounted to some extent for the variability in strength were the variability of filament. strength in the respective yarns, the amount of tension-used in finishing the fabrics, the type of dye, and the type of finish. Shrinkage in the filling direction increased when coarser and more tightly twisted yarns were used. As a result of the second Pennsylvania study, Howorth15 found a relationship between variable construction features and performance based upon -the test data of one hundred cotton fabrics. The construc- tion factors likely to lead to a high dry breaking strength in the warp were a low yarn number in both the warp and filling and a low twist 1m each direction. A high dry breaking strength in the filling correlated with a high weight per square yard, a low yarn count in the warp and a high count in the filling, , and a low yarn twist in both directions. A low shrinkage in the warp direction of cotton fabrics was found to be 10 related to a low filling count and a low warp yarn number. Low shrinks age fillingwise was associated with a low weight per square yard,,a low warp count, a high.yarn.number in the warp and filling, and a high twist in the warp and filling. Much of the early dissatisfaction with rayons resulted from.the fact that they would not withstand ordinary laundry procedures; however, two recent studies indicate that improvements have made former washing pre- cautions unnecessary. Lyle and Blackzo studied the effects of wringing during laundryeupcn'the tensile strength of rayon fabrics. The findings showed that it.may not be necessary to include "squeeze gently" in pres- ent washing instructions, but original wet breaking strengths should be taken into consideration. Graydon, Lindsley, and Brodie12 used dry break- ing strengths to measure the degredation of five types of rayon fabrics when giveanash treatments of varying severity. A statistical analysis of the breaking strengths indicated that all four laundry methods used compared favorably since no one method produced significantly greater tensile strength losses. Repeated washing, however, did cause a slight decrease in.tensile strength. Results of this investigation indicate that present day rayon fabrics may withstand more vigorous laundry methods than are now recommended. The severest method proved to be more efficient in soil removal. Shrinkage has long been one of the causes for dissatisfaction with the performance of textiles. Rayons until recently have been especially aggravating as their stability performance was entirely unpredictable. Several investigations of the dimensional stability of fabrics have been conducted. The report of the New'Jersey Laundry Owners' Association§ 11 study stressed the need for simplification of present wash tests which; are too varied and too numerous and the need for duplicating industrial and consumer practices. Of significance was the relative slowness of cotton warp yarns in.reaching complete relaxation when washed repeatedly. Cotton filling yarns relaxed after the first or second laundry. All but one of the rayons obtained complete relaxation after one to four launderings. Gaston and Fletchern found no significant differences in the shrink- age of laundered fabrics when they were pressedImxkn'different tensions or when the number of launderings varied. Tests were conducted on linens, cottons, and rayons. Significant differences were obtained in the shrinks age of fabrics of different fiber content and in the shrinkage of the warp versus the filling. The continuous filament viscose and acetate rayons shrank less than did the cotton and linen fabrics. A Sub-committee on Home Laundering of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists9 conducted shrinkage tests on both sta- bilized and unstabilized rayon fabrics. The tests involved laundering and shrinkage measurements carried out in commercial launderies, inahomes, and in.textile laboratories. The tests indicated that the correlation between the results predicted in.tests on stabilized rayons and the re- sudts attained in practice was very great. It was also found that equi- libriumpin,shrinkage is established very quickhy with stabilized rayons. With unstabilized rayons, however, various test methods indicated consid- erable variation.in.results and lack of correlation between test methods and results obtained in either commercial or home laundering practices. In.the article, "Elimination of Chaos from Shrinkage Testing,“ Clayton5 summarized the difficulties that have been experienced in» 12 laundering rayons. On the whole viscose rayon fabrics have been more unpredictable with respect to dimensional stability than acetates. Some . early stabilizing agents had a tendency to retard shrinkage but were often progressively removed in successive washing; and some early resin stabilizers absorbed chlorine during laundry which very shortly attacked the cellulose of fibers. Mechanical relaxation of rayon fabrics by wet- ting is not satisfactory as they may stretch later in use. ‘Yarn and weave constructions influence the degree of stability in fabrics. Rayons now may be stabilized permanently through the use of two recently devel- oped finishes which do not absorb chlorine or alter the hand of fabrics. "Sanforset"26 when applied to rayon fabrics controls stability within; 2 per cent, and l'Definized'QL‘ fabrics exhibit a dimensional tolerance within 1 per cent. At the mill level, Chaky4 indicated shrinkage increased directly with the number of turns per inch in.yarns and also with.the number of filaments or thickness of the yarns. Morton25 presented the additional fact that weaves permitting minimum.crimp in.yarns reduced shrinkage. Laboratory tests of colorfastness of women's and children's wear- ing apparel fabrics5 when compared with the results of simultaneousLy conducted wear studies failed to predict color performance under condi- tions of use. The laboratory tests were too mild in the majority of the cases. Average scores regardless of fiber content.or dye type were relatively high insofar as all laboratory colorfastness tests were con» corned. The poorest ratings irrespective of fiber or dye resulted from light tests. MATERIALS A summary of the purchase information.for the damask table linens' in this study is given in Chart 2 on.pages€fl'and 88 of the appendix. . Designation of the tablecloths and their napkins is made by code number. An explanation of the coding system will be found at the beginning of the section.titled “Procedures". The chart contains the following in? formation for each.tablecloth: fiber content, size in inches, color” date and place of purchase, price, and trade name where one existed. The number and size of napkins accompanying the cloths are also given. Only in.the instance of Group V were the napkins not included innthe price of the tablecloth. .The variation.in purchase dates occurred because sufficient numbers of multiple units to constitute a group were not always obtainable at one time. Fabrics within each group were as similar in quality and construction as it was possible to obtain. The purchases were made from four retail firms. 95232.;: The three tablecloths and eighteen napkins of this group were woven of filament acetate rayon with.luetrous yarns in.the warp direction and delustered yarns in.the filling. The tablecloths had firmly woven selvedges; the two ends were machine hemmed with eight stitches per inch. The home were well-turned and evenand had the ends backstitched. All four sides of the napkins were hemmed. The damask patterns of the three cloths were not identical. 11+ 95222.22: Cotton warp and filament viscose rayon filling yarns were used in weaving the five tablecloths and twenty-eight napkins of Group II. The cotton had a rather fuzzy appearance; and the rayon,_ little luster. . The fabrics were quite loosely woven and had a limp hand. The selvedges were fairly firm. The hams were not perfectly even .and did not have the ends backstitched. Stitches varied from nine to eleven per inch. Nap- kins were hemmed on four sides. The only information given onthe mer- chandise tickets was size and price. The damask patterns were dissimilar. The warp of specimen fourteen was yarn-dyed. 9321.13 _I_I_I_: A fiber content similar to that of the preceding group was used inntablecloths numbered fifteen:through eighteeniwith.the ex- ception“that the warp yarns of this group were mercerized. Both sets of yarns had more luster than those in Group II. The fabric was closely: woven and had a firm hand. Selvedges were of excellent construction. Ray edges were finished with one-eighth inch hand-sewn .hems; the stitches were fine and closely spaced. The twenty-four napkins were. woven with selvedges on either side and required home only at the top and bottom. where color occurred, it was confined to the warp yarns. Tablecloths fifteenzand sixteen were of identical damask pattern; the other two were not. Labels on fifteen and sixteen indicated that the fabric contained 48 per cent rayon and 52 per cent cotton. The trade name, hand hemmed, and made in Ireland were additional facts given on the label. The fiber content but not the percentage was given for tablecloth seventeen. Other information on the label stated the fabric was of superior quality,,. had been made in Ireland,,snd was hand hemmed. Fiber content and made in: Ireland were the only facts given about tablecloth eighteen. 15 932.92 _I_Y_: These four all-cotton fabrics had a crisp, starched hand. During finishing the position of the yarns had been distorted which might indicate excess sizing. The yarns were irregular with heavy~ plaices appearing on the surface. Imperfections in the weaving operation produced a surface shot with long floating yarns. All cloths were iden- tical in pattern- Selvedges were fairly firm but had quite a few float- ing yarns. The ends of the heme were backstitched, and nine stitches per inch were used. Sales tickets gave only price and size of the mere chandise. , ' 91932 1: The labels indicated that the fabrics in.the four table-.- cloths and twelve napkins had been made in Ireland. Neither the table- clothe nor the napkins were hemmed. Cloths numbered thirty to thirty- two were identical; thirty-three was of a slightly poorer grade, and the pattern varied from that of the others. The materials had a good luster and appeared to be of a medium quality. The stiffness of the fabrics seemed to indicate the presence of some sizing. m _X_I_: furchased in 1948 these three sets of acetate rayon table linens were of the same brand. as those in Group I bought 12121945. The materials had a firm hand,, and the damask pattern was identical . throughout the group. Wacturers' labels gave the size, fiber con-.- tent, trade name, resource, and washing instructions. Specimens one hundred two and one hundred three were colored. The selvedges and heme were constructed in the same manner as in the first group. PROCEDURES Inasmuch as this investigation was comprehensive in scope and would take several years to complete, it was necessary to devise a labeling and code system which was sufficiently clear to make possible the idenp tification of the many specimens. Through the coding and the recorded purchase and test data, it was feasible for a changing personnel to carry on the study. Nontechnical Procedures Group Numbers: The tablecloths and napkins were divided into groups upon the basis of their fiber content. Groups I and XI were kept separate because of the difference in their purchase dates. The table- cloths in.each group were assigned consecutive numbers. All napkins accompanying a tablecloth were given the same number as the cloth. The plan for the division of the damasks into groups and the code numbers ' assigned to each group for the identification.of individual materials: within.the groups follows: Group I: acetate rayon, code numbers 1 through 5 Group II: (viscose) rayon and cotton, code numbers 10 through 14 Group III: (viscose) rayon and mercerized cotton, code numbers 15 through 18 Group IV: cotton, code numbers 20 through 25 Group V: linen, code numbers 50 through 55 Group XI: acetate rayon, code numbers 101 through 103 17 Labeligg Codes: The capital letter "T" preceded all labeling codes applied to sections of the tablecloths, and a capital letter "N" preceded codes placed upon.napkins. As each tablecloth waste be out into quarters, it was necessary to identify the sections. Plate 11 in the appendix in? dicates the manner in which the quarters were designated as sections "A" through “D.9 The capital “T" or "N,9 as the case might be, was followed by an arabic numeral written.as a subscript which identified each individual tablecloth or its napkins. For tablecloths this numeral was followed by a subscript capital letter corresponding to the quadrant from.which the section was cut. The lower case letters ”a" through ”f” were assigned to the napkins accompanying a tablecloth. In labeling the napkins,,the lower case letters were written as a subscript following the arabic numeral. The fiber content of the tablecloths and napkins in each group was indicated by one or two lower case letters. The initials used were the first letter of the fiber or fibers contained in the fabric. Lastly the weave was indicated by a capital, the initial letter of the name of the weave. By way of illustrating the coding system,.section."A" of table- cloth.l,.Group I would be labeled: TlAarD. Napkin "c" accompanying tablecloth 5,.Group II would be labeled: Nicr/cD. Cuttigg Charts: Large sheets of tracing paper were marked with. one-inch squares and placed over the fabric so that the design.might be reproduced. Cutting charts for test specimens were first worked out on the tracing paper. In designing the sampling pattern, an effort was made to distribute the specimens for every test to include both plain and patterned areas. 18 The outside dimensions of each tablecloth of different design and napkins ”a“ and “b“ were drawn.to scale on large sheets of squared paper. The tablecloth was divided into four equal parts. The damask pattern of the two napkins and of one-quarter of the tablecloth and the cutting charts for test specimens were blocked in to scale. Plates 12 and 15 in.the appendix reproduce the sampling pattern followed in.the original testing. After the tablecloths were divided into quarters, each sectionnwas permanently labeled as were the napkins. Section.hA" of the tablecloths and napkins "a" and ”b“ were used for original test purposes; sections "B“ and "D" and napkins ”c“ and “d" were laundered; and section "0“ and napkins "e" and "f,! where they existed, were preserved as controls. Each test specimen cut was marked for identification as to warp or fill- ing direction and as to the number of the tablecloth or napkin from.which it was taken. The weight and yarn number samples were placed in enveé lopes to prevent distortion. Weave Analysis: The weave was determined by plotting the pattern, of the interlacing of the warp and filling yarns on cross-sectional pap 81' 0 Procedures for Determining Specifications Original Dimensions: After every tablecloth and napkin were temp porarilyvlabeled and before they were cut, the average length and widths of each was determined in accordance with the A. S. T. M. general methodl. The averages of five warpwise and five fillingwise measurements were 19 recorded as the length and width respectively. These measurements were taken correct to the nearest one-eighthinch with a steel tape.. Cost per Square Yard: The formula given below was used in com- puting the cost per square yard of a tablecloth and its napkins. When tablecloths and napkins were priced independently, the cost per square yard was computed separately for each. 56 x 56 x purchasing total square inches = cost per square yard Fiber Contents The identification of fiber content in warp and filling yarns for each tablecloth and napkin was made upon'agree- ment of the results of microscopic analysisl, Tex-Chrome indicator, and the burning and acetone tests. Directions on the bottle for the use of the chemical indicator were followed. Yarn Count: A micrometer was used for determining the number of yarns per inch for both the warp and filling. Beginning in the lower leftth corner of the test piece and preceding at random diagonally' to the upper righthand corner, three counts were taken on sectiono;"B" and two on ”D." Five counts were taken likewise from napkins "c“ and "d." An average of five yarn counts in each direction was recorded as the original count for the tablecloth and its napkins. Yarn Number: The test was not conducted under standard conditions. Yarn number was determined for tablecloths only with the exception of the napkins in Group XI. A Universal Yarn Numbering Balance was used for the determination of yarn number. The procedure used was that out-- lined in the directions furnished with the instrument. A length of yarn was removed from the tablecloth in the direction being tested, measured without tension on a metal ruler accompanying the instrument,, 20 and cut at the designated length. The lengths used for the various types of fibers were 90 centimeters for filament rayon, 56 inches for cotton, and 12 27/52 inches for linen. The yarn was formed into a loop and hung centrally on the heck of the balance. By rotating the index lever until the beam was in balance, the index pointer automat- ically indicated the correct yarn size. The average of five such re- sults was recorded as the yarn number for the warp or filling. Yarn Twist: A Suter Twist Tester was used for the determination of yarn twist. Directions provided by the manufacturer and in accord- ance with A. S. T. 24. procedures were followedl. Yarns ten inches in length were used in all determinations, and the depressor was adjusted to a constant weight of three grams for all types of yarns. The untwist and twist method was followed. Determination of twist replacment was. based upon a one-eighth inch deflection of the yarn from horizontal. The dial reading was divided by ten multiplied by two to obtain the twist per inch. The average twist per inch was computed from ten indi- vidual determinations. The direction of twist was recorded as the op- posits of that used to remove twist from yarns. . In the instance of ply yarns, the twist was removed from the ply; and one of the singles cut away. The same procedure as outlined above was followed to determine the twist of each single component of a ply: yarn. Filament Count: For rayon yarns the filament count was determined by placing'a single yarn on a piece of black plush. Five filaments were counted and pinned to the plush. The countim was completed in this manner. The mlmber of pins multiplied by five plus any remaining 21 filaments constituted the filament count for thatyarn. The average of five yarns was computed and recorded as the filament count per yarn. Weight per Square Yard: Five specimens two-inches square were cut from the test section of the tablecloth and a total of five from the two napkins, three from napkin ”a“ and two from "b.'! The five speci- mens were placed in a weighing bottle previously dried to constant weight and were conditioned in an oven regulated to a temperature ranging from 105° to 110° Centigrade for one and one-half hours. The bottle and specimens were transferred to a desiccator for a half hour or until the samples had reached roomwtemperature before being weighed. The drying, cooling, and weighing continued until a constant weight within a plus or minus 0.0005 grams was obtained. The weight of the bottle was subtracted to obtainpthe weight of the fabric. Standard regain was not computed in figuring weight per square yard because of the fact that other table- cloths in the study were blends of indeterminate percentage composition. The following formula19 was used in computing weight in ounces per square yard: 36 x56 x "1'" ingm. = {$.11 1: gm. : ounces per square yard wt. of sample x 28.55 20 sq. in. Breaking Strength: The breaking strength specimens were cut from. parallel areas of the tablecloths and napkins in accordance with Com- mercial Standard procedures for the raveled strip method6. Both warp and filling specimens were cut twelve inches in length and one and one- half inches in width. These were raveled to one inch. The breaking strength strips were then out through the center. The upper sections of strips, numbered consecutively from one through five, were tested dry- and under standard conditions; six through ten were tested wet. The 22 jaws used on all Scott Tensile Strength Testers had faces measuring one inch by one and one-half inches. Measurements were read correct to the nearest one-half pound. The dry breaking strength strips were conditioned four hours be- fore tests were made. The temperature and relative humidity were con-,- trolled to 70° Fahrenheit and 65 per cent relative humidity respectively. The conditioning room and the Scott Tester were the equipment of Ohio State University . Wet breaking strength strips were allowed to conditionrin: water at room temperature for two hours6 before being tested. The strips were tested within one minute after their removal from water. The Scott Tensile Tester used was one installed in the research laboratory of Michigan State College. The original warp wet breaking strengths for Group III and the original warp and filling wet breaking strength strips for Group V were tested on a third machine without elongation attachmert when :it became apparent that the equipment in the research laboratory had a final calibration below the breaking point of the strips. An aver-- age of five tests was recorded asthe warp and filling dry and wet strengths. Elongation: Elongation determinations were made simultaneously with the breaking strength tests. The elongation percentage was calcu- lated from the vertical rise of the line made by a pen attached to the pendulum of the tensile tester. The measurement was taken in fifty- hundredths of an inch, correct to the nearest two-hundredths. The figure obtained was multiplied by two. This product was divided by six, a correction factor representing the initial load in ounces, and the 25 conversion.to percentage made by multiplication by one hundred. An average of five determinations each for warp and filling dry and wet was recorded as the percentage elongation. Colorfastness 32 Light: The Atlas Fade~Cmeter was used for this test, and the machine was operated in accordance with.A. S. T. M. pro~r cedurel. Two specimens seven by two and one-half inches for each colored cloth were placed in.Atlas Test masks. These samples were exposed in; the Fade-Ometer for periods of 20, 40, 6Q,and 80 hours. The fading was judged by comparison of the exposed area with.the adjacent unexposed area of the specimen. Ratings were made subjectively in accordance with Commercial Standard rating classes6. Laundry Procedures Sections "B" and "D" of the tablecloths which were designated for laundry and dimensional change determinations, were hemmed prior to launr _ daring. Plate 11 in the appendix shows the exact manner in which the two sections were hemmed. Original heme and selvedges were preserved.. washing: A Westinghouse Laundromat was used to wash.the specimens by procedures duplicating acceptable home practices. The temperature of the water was regulated to approximately 110° Fahrenheit for rayon and rayon and cotton.fabrics and to approximately 140° for the all-cotton. and the linen.materials. The length of time was kept constantibr all fab- rics. The sudsing, rinsing, and drying operations were completed in: about 25 minutes. The sudsing time varied from.about 5 to 7 minutes. Calgon was added to soften the water. Lux Flakes were used for fabrics containing rayon; and Super Suds, for laundering the cotton and linen 24 damasks. Test pieces were spread on.towels placed on screens to permit more uniform drying for about one-half hour before being ironed. Ironigg: Iron.temperatures were regulated in accordance with the fiber content. The accuracy of their thermostatic controls was checked with Tempilstiks. For fabrics containing acetate rayon,gthe temperature of the irons was kept below 500° Fahrenheit; viscose rayon, below 550°; and cotton and linen, below 450°. To keep ironing techniques as uni- form as possible, the “B" section of each.tablecloth and the “c“ napkin; were ironed by the same personuthroughout the fifty launderings. The "D" section of the same'tablecloth and the “d” napkin were ironed by another individual. To further standardize ironing techniques, the tablecloths and napkins were first ironed on the wrong side of the cloth in the warp direction and then in the filling and were finished by ironing warpwise on the right side. The acetate cloths were ironed only on the wrong side. EEEEEEEQEEL.§§EPEE}EXf Prior to laundry‘the centers of section "B" and "D“ were thread marked with squares. Third threads were placed half- way between the two sets of parallel markings. Those fabrics composed of rayon or rayon and cotton were marked with.ten-inch squares; and those of cotton or linen, with eighteenrinch squares. The napkins "c" and "d" were marked similarly and according to fiber content. Three vertical and three horizontal measurements correct to the nearest one-sixteenth of an inch were made on each laundered specimen after the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, tenth, fifteenth, twenti- eth» twenty-fifth, thirtieth, fortieth, and fiftieth laundry. The aver- age of the three warpwise and the three fillingwise measurements were 25 recorded and the percentage dimensional change calculated for warp and filling each time measurements were taken. The percentage area change was also calculated for the same intervals. The tablecloths and nap- kins were permitted to condition on metal screens for two hours after ironing before dimensional measurements were made and subsequent yarn counts taken. Ya§n_Count: The same procedure for determining yarns per inch.was used as outlined for establishing the original counts. Yarn counts were taken following the first, fifth, tenth, twentieth, and fiftieth laun- derings. Subjective Analysis; ThroughOut laundry the tablecloths and napkins were inspected for visible signs of wear, change in appearance,,and durability of heme. The ease of caring for the fabrics was also noted. Post-laundry Procedures Colorfastness tg_Laund£y: After the final laundnw'the colored fabrics were compared with.the control sections Determination of the degree of color loss was made by Commercial Standard rating classes6. The final decision was made by consensus of opinion.of two persons as were other final subjective analyses. Performance Testing: After completion of the final yarn counts and dimensional stability measurements,.the "D" section was marked according to the original cutting chart in such a manner that the test specimens had the same position in relation to the heme and seivedges as the specimens cut from section "A" for the original testing. Napkins 26 "c" and "d" were marked for testing exactly as the napkins used for establishing original specifications. Tests after laundry included dry and wet breaking strength determinations for the warp and filling, elongation percentages corresponding to the tensile strength determina- tions,.and weight per square yard. Procedures for the original tests were duplicated. Abrasion: The original cutting charts provided for five six-inch- squarefiabrasion test specimens, but to date these tens have not been“ completed. Abrasion resistance also will be determined after the fifty’ launderings. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS The qualities of cloth as delivered from the mill are known as. its specifications. The results, therefore, of the analyses of the original fabrics will be considered first in the discussion .of the findings. The specifications that have beensrverified for the materials of this study are original dimensions,,.yarn and weave constructions, fiber content, yarn count, tensile strength and elongation, and weight and cost per square yard. Specifications of Original Fabrics Fiber Content: The acetate rayon damasks in Groups I and XI were woven with lustrous filament yarns in the warp direction and delustered filament in’the filling. The fiber composition of Groups II and III, cotton and rayon damasks, varied through the use of mercerized cotton. warp yarns in-Group III and unmercerized yarns in Group II. The filling yarns in both cases were of filament viscose rayon. The warp and fill- ing yarns in Group IV were cotton; and in Group V, linen. £20.19 Analysis: The tablecloths and napkins in this study were woven in a double damask construction with the exception of the all- cotton fabrics which were single damasks. A summary by groups as to type of damask and direction of background floats is given in Chart 1 on the following page. For the purposes of this study the distinction between the two types of damasks will be made upon the basis of the 28 Chart 1 WEKVE ANALYSIS BY GROUPS ORIGINAL TABLE LINERS Fiber Content Group Warp Filling Type Background I acetate acetate double filling—face XI acetate acetate double filling-face II cotton” viscose double warp-face III cotton viscose double warp—face IV cotton cotton~ single filling-face V linen: linen; double Egg-52' 23:23:“. length of the floats. The double damasks had eight-shaft satin background constructions; and the single damasks, a five-shaft background. The . usual practice of weaving damasks except those of cotton with a warp- face background did not hold true for the groups of table linens under' study. Original Dimensions: All tablecloths and napkins varied somewhat from the measurements given on the merchandise tickets. Usually the- variation was a.fractional part of an inch less than that stated. One of the individual cloths, however, was 4.6 inches shorter in length than the given figure. All tablecloths in the cotton damask group had a greater length.than.that stated while the width conformed exactly to the 29 given size. The napkins of Group XI purchased in 1948 tended to be greater than the given size in one direction, but the excess did not appear consistently in either the warp or filling direction. with the exception of the one tablecloth, the variation from.the stated sizes was not excessive and did not exceed the slight inacurracy to be ex- pected in.mass production. Yarn Count: The exact yarn-count for all groups are given in Table l on the following page. The warp and filling yarn counts per inch for the acetate rayons of Group I were nearly identical with those of Group XI. The fabrics in both groups were well balanced as evidenced by the number of warp to filling yarns. The total of warp and filling counts exceeded slightly the 180 minimum1A construction considered satis- factory for double damasks.. While the size of the cotton warp yarns in.Group II and III did not vary greatly, there was a difference of IO yarns in their warp counts. The lower count occurred in Group II. This same group, had only some- what larger viscose rayon filling yarns but a filling count that was approximately 50 yarns lower. Table 1 shows that Group II also had a much poorer ratio of? warp to filling yarns and a total number of yarns per square inch.that falls considerably below the 180 minimum. Roseberry from her study of viscose rayon fabrics found that as the filling count29 inoremnd the twist and number of filaments increased and the size of the filling yarns decreased. Her findings are not substantiated inawhole. Group III with the higher filling count and smaller yarns had the lower filament count and less twist. Group III is very definitely superior, on.the basis of yarnecount. It would seem that an effort had been.made 50 Table 1 AVERAGE YARN COUNTS ORIGE‘IAL TABLE LINE'IS Fiber Damask ‘ Group Content Type warp Filling Total I acetate double 95a 918. 186 XI acetate double 94a 908L 184 II cottons double 86h b viscose 58 144 III . cottonr double 96c viscose 89° 185 IV , cotton single 74d 65d 157 v linen double 728L 848‘ 156 * yarns per square inch, total of warp and filling counts a. average of 50 determinations c. average of 4C determinations b. average of 50 determinations d. average of 20 determinations to maintain the price and conserve fiber by reducing the yarn count in the fabrics of Group II. The cotton damasks hJid the lowest yarn count per square inch, buti the 71; x 65 construction f‘ell about midway in the range of 62 x 48 to“ 80 x 76 which are the usual limits for cotton single damasks. The maxi- mum.total count used in the construction of single damasxs is 175 yarns per square inchla. A comparison of the counts of Group IV with the cus- tomary construction practices indicated that the cotton damasks innthis study were only average in quality. Keeney18 and Mbrrison22 both noted 51 that yarn counts in cotton fabrics tended to drop durim the early war years. There was a decrease as a rule in the yarn counts of the cottons studied by Davis7 during a cost of living increase, and she attributed it to excessive stretching in finishing. The linen damasks were the only group havig an excess of filling yarns, -84 to 72 warp yarns, which is the usual manner of constructing double damasks. It has been indicated, however, that double damasks should be 50 per cent over-weftedlo, and the fabrics of Group V did not meet this requirement. The total count of warp and filling yarns, , 156, is considerably below the generally accepted arbitrary minimum of 180 set for double linen damaskslo. Thus it may be assumed that the linen; damasks fell below the minimum construction-standards. Yarn gumber 93 Denier and Filament Count: A complete sumary of the yarn analysis of the various groups is to be found in Table 11. of the appendix. ‘ The two groups of fabrics having acetate rayon yarns had alé- most identical denier and filaments counts irrespective of their year of purchase. Reference to the Rayon Textile Monthly "Revised Table of Deniers and Filament Numbers of American Rayon Yarns” for March, 194527,; and 194828, . showedthat the Celanese corporation of America manufactured dull acetate yarns of 200 denier, 52 filament in both years. The two filling constructions,_.200/5l in 1945 and 197/52 in 1948,, corresponded very-closely to the standard. Such close verification of denier was not possible for the warp yarns.. The American Viscose Corporationmamxfac- tured in both years 500 denier, 80 filament bright acetate yarns. Warp test results were 276/79 in 1945 and 278/80 in 1948. While the filament construction-was very similar to the standard, there was a deviation of 52 over 20 denier in the warp yarn sizes. Of Groups II and III, the imported fabrics in the latter group had somewhat finer viscose rayon filling yarns; and the domestically manu- factured damasks of a lesser price had coarser yarns. The filament counts were almost identical. Contrary to expectation the imported fabrics had yarns, 250/54, _. which corresponded mre Closely to the manus- facturing specifications published in the Denier—Filament Table of March, 194527, as the Du Pont Corporation.produced 250 denier, 50 files ment bright viscose in that year. Several companies were spinning 300 denier yarns with a filament count ranging from 44 to 60 which,, however, varied considerably from the test results of 284/55 for Group_:II. According to Hoye16 the denier of filament rayon warp yarns in damasks is usually 500 and the filling ranges from 150 to 500. Thus it may be seen from Table 11 that the deniers of rayon yarns used in::Groups I, :XI, ,. II, and III fell within the ranges customarily used. Cotton warp yarn numbers in damasks vary from.l6 to 50 according to Hoye16 and the filling from 18 to 26. The warp yarns of Groups II,} 1 III, and IV of size 20, 21, and 22 respectively fell about midway in the usual range. The one fabric having cotton in the filling direction ind coarser yarns than are customarily used. This would indicate that fab- rics of finer yarns were not generally available during the war years. The linen damasks had warp yarns of 50 lea and fillings of 57. These are yarns of about average size as linen is spun as coarse as 12 and as fine as 125 186.550 Twist per Inch: The acetate rayons purchased in 1948 had approxi- mately one-third the amount of twist in the warp yarns as those purchased 35 earlier. While the filling twist had also decreased, the difference was not so great. None of the yarns in either of these two groups had much twist. The twist of the warp and filling had been reversed from a “Z" to an “S" direction in 1948. The only yarns in the study of a ply structure were the warp yarns of the two groups of cotton and viscose fabrics. Those in Group II had more tightly twisted singles with ten more turns per inch than those in, Group III with a twist of 16. The twist in the ply yarns was quite simi- lar in both groups. The viscose yarns in'the’filling had little twist inneither of the groups. Group IV had a twist of 18 turns in the warp and 15 in the filling. All cotton warp yarns had only a moderate amount of twist and as pointed out previously were of a medium size. Thus is Howorth's15 study substan- tiated as she found cotton yarns of a higher number had a greater amount of twist. In the warp direction the linen damasks had been given a twist 9f 8 turns per inch, about half as much as that of the cotton warp yarns. The filling twist of 12 turns was quite similar to that of the cotton damasks. Weight per Sware Yard: The average weight in ounces per square yard for each group may be ascertained by consulting Table 2 on the fol- lowing page. There was little variation in the weights of the damasks in the six groups; a difference of only .9558 ounces existed between the highest and lowest average weights. The acetate rayon tablecloths and napkins in Group XI had the highest weight per square yard, but those of Group I were only slightly lighter. There was a greater difference 54 Table 2 AVERAGE WEIGHTS IN OUNCES PER SQUARE YARD ORIG INAL TABL E L IN ENS Fiber Content Group Warp Filling, Ounces I acetate acetate 5.4067“ XI acetate Iacetate 5.5874a II cotton viscose 4.6516b III cotton viscose 5.#l§4° Iv cotton cotton 5.1559d V linen linen 5.5896a a. average of 6 determinations 0. average of 8 determinations b. average of 10 determinations d. average of 4 determinations tn'the weights of the cotton and viscose damasks of Groups II and III as they had the highest and lowest weights of the fabrics innthe original purchases made in 1945. Damasks are considered light when they weigh less than.6 ounces per square yard according to Hessl4. By reference to Table 2 it may be seen that all damasks in the study fell below the medium.weight category usually preferred for general use. The relationship between cost and weight per square yard found by?2 Sumner is substantiated in part in.this study as the damasks of Group III had the highest cost and highest weight of the fabrics purchased in l9#5. The relationship between price and weight did not exist through! out the study. The slightly higher weight t the acetates purchased 1m 55 1948 and the greatly increased cost placed them first in each respect? when all groups of the study are considered; however, no close relation- ship between price and weight for the acetates purchased in 1945 existed. The greatly increased price of the fabrics purchased at the later time is attributed to inflation rather than to any appreciable increase in weight. Keeney in her study of drapery fabrics” in 1942 and 1945 found very little relationship existed between weight and construction and dura- bility due to the wide variation in the strength and structure of the yarns. In her study of cotton fabricsla, she found little difference in the weight of fabrics by years. Evidently the increased size of yarns used in 1945 offset the decreased count per inch. Chart 5 in the appene- dix shows the relationship of weight to other construction features and to price. Breaking Strength: The average breaking strength of each individual tablecloth and napkin within a group were averaged to arrive at the mean original dry and wet, warp and filling breaking strengths for a group. In a few cases there was considerable difference between the filling strength averages for the tablecloth and napkin, but the difference was not as great as the range of strengths occurring in-the individual table- cloth or napkin. The slight variation in the results of construction] analyses of the fabrics-«yarn count, yarn number or denier-filament count, and weight per square yard--justified the computation and the assumption: that tablecloths and napkins were of the same universe. Table 5 at the top of the next page gives the actual warp and fill- ing dry and wet breaking strengths intpounds for all groups. Plates 1 56 Table 5 AVERAGE samxnn STREE-IGTHS IN POUNDS ORIGINAL TABLE LINENS WARP FILLING Fiber Par Par Group Content Dry Wet Cent‘ Dry Wet Cent‘“ I acetate 68.48L 56.6'5'L 55.51 56.63 19.6‘1 55.55 XI acetate 72.8EL 45.58L 57.75 59.6El 211.4611 61.62 II cotton- 71.2b 50.0b 112. 56 viscose 118.6b 20.2b 41.56 III cotton— l52.l° 124.0c 95.87 . . . 7180086 7706c 55010 4206 IV cotton 60.8d 68.1d 112.01 64.4‘1 67.7d 105.12 v linen 92. 28L 126 .68L 157 . 51 9o .4‘1 96 . 2EL 106 .42 * wet strength as a percentage of the dry strength a. average of 50 determinations c. average of 40 determinations. b. average of 50 determinations d. average of 20 determinations and 2011. pages 57 and 58 give a pictorial representation of the compari- son of the dry and wet strengths of the warp and filling yarns for the various groups. By*consulting Table 5 it will be seen that the acetate rayons of Groups I and XI had widely divergent strengths in the warp and filling indicating that they had poorly balanced strengths in terms of the warp- filling ratio. The fact that delustered yarns were used in the filling Plate 1 EUGTHS H . MAXIM} STR (AR? BR A WMPA RI SON O!" GINAL TABLE LINEIIS 0 Group V Group IV Group III Group II I 5 II Group ..... mmmmmm Group I 10 mwmwwmwm 38 Plate 2 IPARISON OF FILLING BREAKING STREBTHS A00 {3213 ORIGINAL TABLE LII o 3 b 1 110 100 wm&w/.m.flm Group XI Group II Group III Group IV Group V Group I 59 may account for the lower strength in that direction-as dull yarns are usually weaker than bright. Also of importmice is the fact that Group I XI had‘a dry warp breaking strength that was over 5 pounds greater than that of Group I, and the dry filling strength had increased 5 pounds. There was likewise an actual pound increase in both warp and filling wet strengths of the fabrics purchased in 19148 as well as a higher wet-dry percentage relationship. Phe1p335 indicates that the wet breaking strength for acetate yarns runs between 56 and 70 per cent of the dry. Table 5 shows that the acetate damasks .purchased in 1945 had a wet strength percentage below this range, but those purchased in 1948 fall within the range. As the yarn counts, size of yarns,,filament counts, and twist are almost identical in both groups, the increased breaking strengths of Group XI are attributed to improvements in the yarns. For the three groups of tablecloths having cotton warp yarns, .there ' . is a great range in breaking strengths. The mercerized cotton yarns in: Group III had the highest dry strength of any group irrespective of fiber content, but their wet strength was only 95.87 per cent of the dry.- Davis7 stated that wdrilinen and cotton strengths are as high or higher than their dry strengths unless the cellulose has been damaged in finishing by overbleaching or other chemical action. Then it is considerably lower than the dry. Phelps25 indicated that there is a range of 110 to 150 per cent for wet cottontstrengths as a per cent of the dry; The wet per cents for the‘cotton yarns in this study fell below or just withinrthe lower limits of the usual range. The cotton. filling yarns of Group IV had a slightly greater breaking strength than; the warp. The coarser yarns used in this direction may account for their to strength. Keeneyla, Howorthtw, , and Morrison‘22 attributed the greater strengths of wartime manufactured cottons to the use of coarser yarns. Howorth also found that a high breaking strenth was related to a low tWist. The variation in the warp strengths cannot be explained on this basis as their yarn numbers and twist did not vary greatly. It may be assumed that inherent quality, differences in.yarn.counts, and the use of ply“yarns caused the variability of warp strengths in Groups II, III, and IV. Table 19 in the appendix has reduced the strengths for the various groups to an index number on the basis of strength per yarn. The viscose filling yarns in.Groups II and III had widely divergent dry strengths with decreased wet strengths that were only slightly higher than.#0 per cent of the dry and lower than the usual 45 to 55 per cent range given by Hatthewsel. The difference in the breaking strengths: seems to have a more feasible explanation upon the basis of the much higher yarn count in.Group III than.upon the basis of increased fila- ment count, larger yarn size, and lower twists which Roseberry29 found correlated with a high breaking strength. The Breaking Strength Index Table in the appendix does not acoOunt for the entire difference ing filling breaking strengths for the‘two groups,:and it is to be assumed that inherent differences of the yarns are responsible. Roseberry cites variability in strength of filaments in.yarns, the amount of tension used in finishing, the type of dye and finish as possible causes of variation in strength. Davis? found that the dry breaking strength of viscose rayons decreased in 1940 and 1941 when prices were rising but not so rapidly as the cost of living. 41 The balance of the warp-fillim strengths of Group II was very poor and the greatly lowered wet filling strength widened the difference. The difference between the warp and filling strengths in Group III was not so serious as the filling strength was sufficiently higher to give satisfactory performance. The linen damasks were well balanced with regard to breaking strengths. The increase of the wet warp strength over that of the dry was about 21 per cent greater than the percentage increase observed in the filling. The fact that the percentage relationship of dry and wet strengths for all fibers tends to follow the lower limits of the usual percentage ranges indicates that the yarns or fibers used in the fabrics of this study were not of the best quality. Only the all-cotton and the linen. table fabrics gave satisfactory predictive performance when the wet ten- sile strengths were taken'2into consideration. All other fabrics showed a loss of about 40 to 60 per cent in one or. both directions when tee“. ed wet. An increase in the actual number of pounds required to rupture the acetate fabrics purchased in 1948 indicated some technological improvement in acetate yarns during the three years separating the purchase dates of the two groups. The viscose yarns were observed to have in general dry and wet strengths greater than the acetate fabrics in actual pounds, but the dry-wet percentage indicated a poorer relationship for the viscose yarns. Matthews”: substantiated this observation in his statement that viscose has the lowest wet strength of all rayon yarns. Elongation: A study of the elongation percentages given in Table 4 at the top of the following page shows that the elongation“. for both groups of acetate rayon fabrics increased when they were tested wet. Matthewsel 42 Table 4 AVERAGE ELONGATIONS IN PER CENT ORIGINAL TABLE LINERS W RP FILLING Group Fiber Content Dry Wet Dry Wet“ I acetate 52.1%. 40.7a 50.9a 46.2a XI acetate 55.0a 55.7a 51.4a 45.2a II cottons 14.4b 15.0b b b viscose 51.9 29.5 III cottonr 24.2c ---- viscose 4 29.9c 23.2° Iv cotton 15.0d 1s.1d 2.0.6d 18.4d V linen 15.28. ""'-- 17 oLl'a 801a a. average of 50 determinations c. average of 40 determinations b. average of 50 determinations d. average of 20 determinations states that elongation tends to increase as strength decreases. Phelps25 gives the usual ranges for acetate rayons as 25 to 50 per cent dry and 50 to 58 per cent wet. The dry and wet elongations for the viscose rayon.yarns used fill- ingwise in.Groups II and III were nearly the same, but the wet elonga- tions were actually less than the dry. The dry elongations for both groups exceeded the 16 to 20 per cent range for viscose yarns dry and conform.more closely to the wet elongation range of 18 to 55 per cent25. 45 Matthews21 gives an expected range of 4 to 10 per cent elongation: for cotton when dry, but no figures are available for the expected wet performance. All elongations for the cotton.yarns in this study exceeded the usua1-percentage performance. Furthermore,the cotton warp yarns of Groups II and IV had slightly greater elongations when tested wet. A considerable decrease in the wet elongation was obtained for the filling yarns of the linen damasks which conforms to the normal performr ance to be eXpected with an increase in strength. Warp elongation.per- centages were not available for the warp yarns of Groups III and V be- cause their breaking strengths necessitated the use of a machine without elongation attachment. Not all fabrics performed in accordance with the usual inverse strength-elongation relationship. All of the fabrics in the study for which elongation determinations tire available tended to surpass the upper limdts that occur normally.indicating less than average strengths. Cost per Sguare Yard: Through reference to Table 5, it will be seen that the price per square yard of the acetate rayon fabrics pur- chased in.l948 increased considerably over that of those purchased inn 19fi5. A comparison of the yarn structures, yarn count, and the weight: per square yard did not show any appreciable variation, bnt some improve- ment in the breaking strengths for those purchased at the later time has been noted. The greatly increased price, however, of Group XI must be attributed to the spiral of prices that followed the removal of price controls. The cotton and viscose rayon fabrics of Group III had the highest cost per square yard of a11 purchases made in 1945. Group II of the 44 Table 5 COST PER SQUARE'YARD ORIGINAL TA BL- E LIZ‘IPEIS Cost per Group Fiber Content Square Yard I acetate $2.51 XI acetate 4156 II cottoneviscose 5.11 III cottoneviscose 5.18 IV cotton .71- V linen 5.58 same fiber content had a lesser price, but a comparison.of the speci- fications of the two groups will show those of the higher priced damasks were definitely superior. The linen damaSks were the second highest in.price of those fabrics purchased originally while the cottons were by far the lowest. The price of the linen.may be attributed to its scarcity, the initial cost of the fiber, and the care and skill required in.spinning the yarns and weaving the fabric rather than.to outstanding construction. The. original breaking strengths of the linen fabrics were satisfactory. The all-cotton fabrics might be expected to give satisfactory service and to be the best purchase from.a price consideration. The damask weave in itself is the most expensive of weave constructions, and therefore, accounts for a considerable part of the purchase price of the materials in this study. 45' Cost per square yard when ranked from highest to lows t as has been done in Chart 5 of the appendix and compared with the warp breaking strengths, ranked in a like manner, has a direct relationship except for the reversal inwposition of the breaking strengths of Groups V and XI. There is a tendency for other construction features to show a relations ship, but they by no means follow the pattern of price as closely as does warp breaking strength. Performance of Damasks Performance for the purposes of this study has been defined as the manner in which textiles react after fifty launderings. Measure- ment of performance is,made by comparing after laundry test results with specifications established earlier. Post-laundry tests were performed to determine changes in dimensions, area, yarn count, weight per square yard, breaking strengths, and color that occurred as a result of laundry. Change in color after exposure to light was noted and subjective evalua- tions made to complete the measurements of performance. Dimensional Change: The percentage dimensional change which took place in each direction of the various groups of table linens will be considered before the discussion of other changes occurring as a result of fifty launderings. Inez-ass or decrease in length and width frequently accounts for changes in.yarn count, weight per square yard, and breaking I strength. Decrease of dimension in one direction causes an increase in.yarn count in the opposite direction; conversely an increase in dimen- sion one way of the material results in a decreased yarn count in the other. Loss of area will cause fabrics to increase in weight through a 46 greater concentration of yarns per square inch. Greater breaking strength.may occur in the same direction as an increased yarn count because of the presence of more yarns per inch. Degredation of the fibers would minimize the effects of shrinkage upon weight and strength. A complete tabulation.of warp and filling dimensional change at each laundry interval measurements were made is given in Tables 12 and 15 of the appendix. The performance, however, of the various groups of table linens analyzed as to fiber content is presented as line graphs in Plates 5 and 4 on pages 47 and 48. Similar tabulations and graphs for change in area follow those for dimensional change. The trends of the fabrics as to stability are to be more readily observed from: the graphs. From.the graphing of the warp yarns,it will be noticed that in all cases regardless of fibercxmtent the greatest change occurred dur-- ing the first laundry. In all cases except the acetate rayons purchased in 1948,.the shrinkage as a rule was progressive throughout laundry, but at‘a much less accelerated rate. The greatest change in the fill-~ ing direction also took place as a result of the first laundry. The highest percentage dimensional change did not by any means occur on the fiftieth laundry. Frequently the greatest changes were partially cor— rected before the final laundry. Both groups of acetate rayon damasks reached a relative degree of stability after the first laundry. The warp and filling yarns of Group I fluctuated considerably after the tmth ml through the fiftieth lame-.- dry. The shrinkage in warp and filling direction.for Group I was nomi- nal as it did not exceed 2 per cent. The fabrics purchased in 1948 47 Plate 5 DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LENGTH Q 30' 40‘ :50 5 10 15 2025 Number of Launderings 4 48 Plate 4 "IDTH GE III ‘1 .‘ JEISIOILXL 0131 Q A DI . --.-‘-._ -‘-——- _--.- - mm + 16% +25 +11 '10 .115 ‘2'0 25 so so so NUmber of Launderings 5 4 49 Plate 5 ClfllfiE IN ARM ‘15 20 25’ 50.10 50 Number of Laundering: “h 5 1o 5 50 Plate 6 CHANGE IN AREA l 2 5 3+ 5 10 15 20 25 50 40 50 - Ikmborofbamderings 51 Table 6 DB-‘IETIS IONAL CILXZ‘EGE IN PER C EXIT AFTER FIFTY LAUNDERINGS Group Fiber Content Warp Filling I acetate -2.2%% -2.08% XI acetate - .94 .00 II cottonrviscose -8.82 +2.75 III cottonrviscose -5.88 -5.52 IV cotton -7.97 + .09 V linen -2.5O - .57 were quite superior from the standpoint of total shrinkage and constancy in.performance. The cotton warp yarns in.Groups II and IV had a percentage shrink- age that was twice that of the mercerized cottons and the greatest of all warp yarns regardless of fiber. The shrinkage for the two groups having unmercerized yarns was in excess of the maximum.allowance of 5 per cent51. Further the unmercerized yarns did not show a point of relaxation but continued to shrink throughout laundry. The mercerized yarns tended to stabilize after the fifteenth laundry. The filling yarns of the cotton damasks increased in length through the fifth laundry and ‘then began decreasing slightly; however, after the fiftieth laundry a very sliglt increase in dimension was observed. The dimensional change of the cotton filling yarns was insignificant. In another study a series of forty wash tests on cotton fabrics resulted in warp shrinkages of 52 from 5 to 15.5 per cent, .and the filling yarns exhibited gains of 6.5 to losses of 4.0 per centa. The viscose filling yarns in Groups II and III performed in opposite manners. Relaxation occurred after the second and third launderings, but considerable fluctuation in both groups was noted throughout the series of washings. The unpredictability of rayons and viscose in par- ticular has been noted in several other studies. The increase in fill- ing dimension of Group II and the decrease for Group III were within the 5 per cent maximumtolerance. Davis7 in testing viscose rayon fabrics over a period of years prior to the present study found the shrinkage somewhat too high in both directions with no definite tendencies. The degree of stability of viscose rayons apparently had been improved dur- ing the interval of years separating the two studies,but not-its tend- ency to performina predictable manner. Roseberry'sz9 findings that coarser yarns and a greater number of filaments increased shrinkage of viscose fabrics does not account for the variability in dimensional sta- bility as the yarn constructions in the two groups were quite similar. The warp yarns of the linen damasks showed a slight but gradual de- crease in length throughout laundry. The filling yarns remained almost dimensionally constant after the first laundzy and had a very nominal final shrinkage. Warp shrinkage was not excessive. The greater dimensional change found in the warp direction for all types of fabrics is substantiated in the studies of Gaston and Fletchern’, Sumner52, and others. Tension on warp yarns during weaving undoubtedly: accounts for the greater shrinkage which occurs in the length of fabrics. The rayon warp yarns reached relaxation: earlier in the laundry series than 55 either the cotton or linen and is supported by the New Jersey Laundry Owners' Association findingss. In their study rayon warp yarns relaxed after from.one to four washings but the cottons not until between the tenth and fifteenth. In the Michigan study the rayon warp yarns showed greater dimensional stability than the cotton or linen, but the reverse was true of the filling yarns with the exception of those in Group XI. Acetate yarns as a whole were more stable than the viscose. Shapiro5O indicated that similar results had been observed in.prior tests. Gaston and Fletcherll washed cotton, linen, and rayon fabrics and then pressed them.under controlled tensions. They found no significant differences in shrinkage resulting from the various tensions. Thus it may be assumed that the fabrics tested at Michigan State were not greatly affected by individual differences of pressure in the hand ironing process. In the study of tension, it was found that less shrinkage occurred in con- tinuous filament acetate and viscose than in cotton and linen fabrics. Sumner52 in.her study found that the linen damasks shrank in the warp and filling from 0.6 to 4.9 per cent; cotton.warp, 4.6 to 12 per cent; cotton filling, 1.4 to 4.5 per cent; and rayon, .0 to 4.2 per cent. £523.928E82‘ All groups showed a loss in area ranging from .92 to 7.88 per cent. From the graphs of area performance throughout laundry, it will be seen that the acetate rayons reached relaxation after the first to third laundry while all other groups did not have a definite relaxation point. .The acetate rayons purchased in 1948 were more satis- factory than any of the other fabrics with regard to constancy and the amount of change in area after fifty launderings. It is further proof of the improvements being made in synthetic fibers. 54 Table 7 ARM CHMIGE IN PER GRIT AFT ER FIFTY LAUZIDIIRIEIGS Group Fiber Content: ‘ Change I acetate -4.42% XI acetate - .92 II ' cottonrviscose -6.52 III ‘ cottonrviscose -7.05 IV cotton -7.58 V linen -2.77 The area performance of the two groups containing cotton and viscose yarns*&m quite erratic showing a tendency to progressive shrinkage. On a percentage basis they had a total shrinkage surpassed only by that of; the cotton damasks. The better performance of the mercerized cotton; warp in Group III is minimized by the filling shrinkage, while the greater warp shrinkage in Group II is counteracted by a fillingwise increase in: dimension. Sumner52 found the greatest shrinkage occurring in the nap- kins of cotton and rayon; The rayon filling yarns changed little, but the shrinkage of the cotton warp yarns was greater than in any of the other napkins she tested. The cotton damasks had the greatest loss 3f area of all damasks studied and a progressive shrinkage until after the twenty-fifth laundry. The linen damasks when compared with the groups contained in the original purchases showed the least change in area. Sumner52 found 55 linentdamaskn to change least in area. The linen fabrics did not reach. a point of relaxation until after the fifteenth laundry which suggests that a considerable amount of sizing may have been used. The greatly improved dimensional performance of the acetates pur- chased in 1948 placed them first. The linen damasks ranked second, and the cotton and cotton and viscose damasks suffered similarilosses in area which were excessive. Chggge ig‘Yann Count: Table 15 in.the appendix shows the relations ship of the original yarn counts to those taken after fifty launderings for all groups of damasks in.the study. The warp yarn count chinge after Table 8 YARN COUNT CHM-1GB IN PER CENT AFTER FIFTY LAUNDERINGS Group Fiber Content Warp Filling I acetate +5.16 +1.10 XI acetate .00 +2.20 II cottonrviscose -5.49 +8.62 III cottonrviscose +2.08 +5.57 IV cotton .00 +11.1O V linen .OO +2.58 fifty launderings varied from an increase of 5.16 per cent to a loss of 5.49, and gains of 1.10 to 11.10 were observed in the filling counts. Hewever, in determining the cause of increased or decreased yarn count” 56 the dimensional stability of the yarns in the opposite direction mustf be taken into consideration. Through.a comparison of the percentage change in the yarn counts given in Table 8 with the final warp and filling dimene sional changes given on page 51, it will be seen that an increased yarnn count in one direction is accompanied by a dimensional decrease in.the opposite direction. A decreased yarn count in one direction is likewise a result of stretching that occurred in the other dimension of the material. The acetate fabrics in.Group I had increased counts in both.the warp and filling direction. Those of Group XI had an invariate warp count, but the filling count percentage increase was twice as great as that of the first group. The warp count in Group II decreased whereas the count for Group III increased. The difference observed in the performance of the two sets of warp yarns is explained by the fact that the viscose rayon.yarns in: Group II increased dimensionally while those in Group III decreased in length. when the filling counts of Groups II, III, and IV are observed, it is to be noted that Groups II and IV increased greatly and were accomr panied by excessive warp shrinkages. The increase in the filling count of Group III was not great as the mercerized warp yarns did not shrink excessively. The warp count in the all cotton damasks remained constant as a result of the insignificant increase in length of the filling yarns. The warp count for the linen damasks did not change as the filling shrinkage was not significant. The filling count increased moderately 'as a result of some shrinkage in the warp direction. The greater increase inpyarn counts in all fabrics Of this study occurred in the filling direction as a result of greater warp shrinkage. 57 Change in Weight per §guare Yard: A comparison of the weight inn ounces of the various groups before and after fifty launderings is given? in.Table l6 in.the appendix. All fabrics except the linen.damasks showed an increase in weight. The increase may be attributed to dimensional losses in area. The linens in this study showed a relatively low area change and a loss in weight. Sumner52 similarly found no increase in the weight of linen damask after laundry and attributed it to the small amount of smage. The group of linen fabrics studied at Michigan State linted excessively during laundry; and for that reason, it was assumed that the nominal shrinkage was not great enough to offset the loss of fiber through the action of laundry. The lowest increase in weight oc- curred in the acetate damasks purchased in 1948 and was related to their: slight loss in area. The fabrics containing cotton increased in weight Table 9 WEIGHT PER SQUARE YARD CHANGE IN PER CENT AFTER FIFTY LAUNDERINGS Group Fiber Content Change I / acetate + 7.23% XI acetate + ..79 II cottonrviscose +15.29 III cottondviscose +ll.7§ IV cotton +IO.lO v linen - 4.54 58 to the greatest extent. In Sumner's study52 the cotton and cotton and rayon fabrics all gained at least 10 per cent in weight, and this finding was duplicated at Michigan State where the same type of fabrics had weight increases in excess of 10 per cent. Mg _3_._r_1 Breakig; Strength: 59 show in bar graph form the relationship of original strength to strength Plates 7 through 10 beginning on page after laundry for the six groups of damasks. 0 Comparisons of strengths before and after laundry with percentage change are to be found in.Tables 17 and 18 of the appendix. Table 10 BREAKING STREEGTH CHANGE IN PER GRIT AFTER FIFTY LAUNDERINGS DRY WET Group Fiber Content warp Filling warp Filling I acetate + 8.19;; + 4.57% 4-17.49; +£25.00); XI acetate -27.88 -29.29 -25.45 -26.64 II cottons -55.#5 -25.12 viscose + 4.75 +22.28 III cotton- -27.71 -22.74 viscose + 1.80 + 4.55 IV cotton -26.64 -l#.9l -5l.86 -l0.04 v linen ~54.06 @750 42.50 -3o.77 59 Plate 7 A COLTARISOII 0F HARP DR! BRZIKIIIG CTJUGTHS ORIGINAL AND LAUNDIZRED TABLE 1.1.3118 1b. 0 1&0 15° 12° 110 ..... 100 ‘8 .. l to. Group I I Group XI Group II Group III Group IV Group V 60 Plate 8 {ET BREAK III} STRE IGTHS A MHPARISON OF WARP ORIGINAL AND LAUZ‘IDERED TABLE LINBVIS Group V Group IV 1.- - . . I _ . . I . . I .a; .1! P i + .fi . u u o _ . .. . r --.! . .. .p G ._ i m a u _ i - . p. :t _- 1-1-7.-- . I . I .. w. 0 m. ..... Group XI Group I mmmmmmmmmmwmwmm -Ilvlln; ,- y...—.'v-._. ! o AKIN} STRHBTHS ‘l 61 Plate 9 Y'.-.‘ Ill - o 0 .e V . lo 0 n 1.! 9| I ORIGIIIAL AND LAUNDERED TABLE LINERS {P.XRISON 01" FILle DR! BR A00 >- , V Y I? TE -4>' r} >- - L. J 4>—-0— o—v— » b .4 ' V O HHP~+~rr - #— Hts» 0 MV- o4>—<> L gL- 1r it fi 44 -3... r. I >—HH —1 ., H} fl Group V t- 4%} >0 > Old Group IV Group III HAM 4 -——0— Group II Group XI Group I —o 62 Plate 10 ZCGTHS ‘lICIJG iL'I‘R v 0. BR .. "a ' V {PARISON OF FILLING e 1 A00 ORIGINAL AND LAUNDERED TABLE LILCBIS . . . l .b— o a b 1 . I‘ll'l' -.._.__- - I . m--..—.—_.‘_——--.-p_.--. . m 70 10 Group XI Group II Group III Group IV Group V Group I 65 The acetate rayons of Group I were the only fabrics which gained in all breaking strengths after laundry. The increase in strengths is appar- ently caused by an increased yarn count. The other groups of acetates did not increase in breaking strength, but shrinkages for this group were negligible. All the groups containing cotton warp yarns lost breaking strength in the direction of the cotton yarns irrespective of the performance of the filling yarns on shrinkage tests. Likewise the cotton damasks suffered losses of strength in the filling direction even though accompanied by serious warpwise shrinkage. The viscose filling yarns in Groups II and III increased in dry and wet’strengths somewhat in proportion to theamount of shrinkage in the warp direction; the group having; the lesser amount of shrinkage had a smaller gain in strength. The linen fabrics suffered the greatest loss of strength in both the warp and filling directions of all materials in the study. The loss in: strength may be related to the loss of linen fibers during laundry. Of all materials purchased in 1916, , only the rayon fibers failed to show a loss in strength as a result of laundry. Other fibers even tho gh they had an increased yarn count in the direction of the testifailed to show an increase of strength; hence it is to be assumed that the rayons were least affected by the action :of laundry. Sumner52 found losses in wet breaking strengths of 58.7 to 61.5 per cent for linen..damasks,_. 24.5 to 29.6 for the cottons,. and 17.7 to 41.2 for the cotton warp yarns of the rayon and cotton fabrics. The rayon filling yarns in four cases out of five showed a gain and not a loss in. 64 strength. The loss in breaking strength of the linen fabrics positivelyr correlated with the loss in weight per square yard. Graydon, Lindsley, and Brodie12 found that regardless of the severity of the laundry method used significant differences in the loss of breaks ing strength by rayon fabrics were not obtained. Lyle and Black20 found that wringing during laundry did not adversely affect the breaking strengths of rayon fabrics. Thus it may be assumed that rayons may now be laundered without observing former precautions. Breaking Strength Indgg: Actual loss or gain in strength per yarn» is given in Tables 19 and 20. The percentage change given for breaking strength indices is actually a better means of determining loss or gain; of strength as a result of laundry for the element of shrinkage is slim: inated. The acetate rayons of Group I showed actual increased strength per yarn in both directions when tested dry and wet after laundry. The viscose filling yarns of Group II and III showed an increase in.strength when.tested wet. Their loss of strength when tested dry was not great. The breaking strength indices showed for all rayon fabrics except those of Group XI only very slight losses in strength or actual increases after laundry. Group XI had a warp index just slightly below that of the cotton.warp yarns. The cotton warp yarns lost in general about 50 per cent of their strength after laundry. The linen loss in warp strength was somewhat greater. Eloggation: The increased elongation of yarns that might be expected to accompany loss in strength after laundry did not occur; nor did the one group of rayons which increased in strength after laundry show a loss in elongation. Only the cotton warp yarns in.Groups II and IV had 55 losses in strength accompanied by increased elongation, and those of Group IV did not show an increase 5J1 elongation when tested wet. The same lack of expected elongation performance when less of strength is considered failed to occur in the filling yarns. The viscose rayon yarns in Group III which increased slightly in strength after laundry had an almost 12 per cent increase in elongation when tested dry, but failed to show a corresponding increase in elongation when tested wet.. A comparison.of warp and filling elongations before and after laundny will be found in Tables 21 and 22 of the appendix. Colorfastness tg Light: Nearly all the fabrics contained in.the groups of damasks were white so that color charge was not an.important consideration. The peach colored tablecloth, number 14, of Group II lost little color after 20 hours in the Fade-Ometer. The loss was quate noticeable after 40 hours and progressed thereafter, but rui discernable difference in color change between 60 and 80 hours was to be observed. The fabric was judged to have Class 2 colorfastness5, satisfactory for use where moderate fastness to light is required. Tablecloths 15 through 17 in Group III had Class 4 colorfastness6. They showed no appreciable change after 80 hours, and may be considered of superior lightfastness. Tablecloths 102 and 105 in Group XI showed slight loss of color after 20 hours in the Fade-Ometer. The fading was appreciable at the end of 40 hours, but the original colors were very delicate. No difference was distinguishable betweenwthe 60 and 80 hour- runs. These were judged to Class~2 fastness to light. Cost-Performance Relationships: Chart 4 of the appendix shows the relationship of’codlto the performance factors of change in weight per 66 square yard, dimensional change in warp and filling directions, and change in warp and filling dry breaking strength indices. There is no direct relationship between price and performance. The acetate rayons in Group XI showed considerable relationship between desirable performr ance factors and price, and the acetate rayons in Group I showed a rather close relationship between a low price and satisfactory performance. The increased price of the acetate damasks purchased in 1948 accounted for the reversal of the relationship of cost and performance for these two groups. Group II tended to show a relationship of lower price to low performance characteristics, and Group III had a high price and a tendency to poorer performance. In the cotton damasks there was a connection between low price and excessive warp shrinkage, but other performance factors tended to be higher. There was an association.of price rank and dimensional change for the linen damasks, but breaking strengths were lower. Subjective Analysis 3: Laundered Fabrics: The determination of colorfastness to laundry was made by a subjective inspection of the laundered table linens. Tablecloth 14 lost considerable color as a result af'laundry. Tablecloths 15, 16, and 17 showed no appreciable change in color of the mercerized cotton warp yarns, and tablecloths 102 and 105 faded somewhat. In no case was the loss of color as a re- sult of laundry as great as the loss which resulted from exposure in the Fade-Ometer. Berton; and Davis7 found wearing apparel fabrics of all kinds gave the poorest performance with respect to light. Keeney found no differences in colorfastness in 1942 and 1945 for draperyl7 and cotton dress18 fabrics. 0n the other hand Morrison22 found that‘ 67 the colorfastness of both cottons and rayons was poorer in 1944 when compared with previous years. It is possible that in the later war years only the poorer dyes were available for civilian use. After fifty launderings the acetate rayon fabrics in.Group I had slightly less luster and body. These white fabrics appeared a little dingy. The heme whether machine stitched or hand done held up well. The selvedgee had shrunk some. The cotton warp yarns in Group II had become quite fuzzy and lost sheen; the rayon yarns in the filling also had less luster. The cloth lost body. Heme parallel to the warp yarns pulled out; hand-rolled heme deteriorated more than those that were machine stitched. The slippage of the warp yarns on the rayon filling yarns seemed to cause the heme to pull out in the warp direction. In Group III the mercerized cotton warp yarns roughened ever so slightly but maintained a good luster. The hand-rolled heme pulled out in several places; heme parallel to the warp yarns depreciated to a greater extent. The fabrics in Group IV lost all their glossy, linenrlike appearance and crispness. They becametflightly yellowed and quite fuzzy. The origi- nal weaving imperfections became more noticeable as the removal of starch freed more of the long unattached floats. The pattern became less dis- tinguishable. All heme held equally well. These heavy damask clothe took a fairly long time to iron, but when ironed quite damp their appear- ance improved. The selvedgee on.tablecloth 25 were full of loops and looked worse than did the selvedges on the other tablecloths in the group. 68 As previously noted the linen tablecloths in Group V linted con: siderably each time they were washed. They lost some of their smooth, slick surface and body. After laundry they were softer than the original cloths which would indicate they had been sized. The heme stayed in very well, but looked pulled as did the selvedgee. The napkins retained more body and seemed to be of better quality. Tablecloth 55 which was of a noticeably poorer quality, looked thin in the areas where design occurred. Tablecloth 51 had a few broken.yarns. The linens had not yellowed from.repeated laundering. After the series of launderings, the acetate damasks of Group XI were lustrous rather than shiny. The corners and other thick places seemed to be fused and showed some evidence of wear. Some change of color and fading occurred in 102 and 105. The selvedges were noticeably shrunken. The hams pulled out in places; the hand hams slipped the nmst. COHCLUSIOKS Manufacturer's labels did not appear frequently on the table linens purchased in 1945.. Statements where they existed proved to be of little informative value to the consumer. A greater number and more elaborate labels but of little more informative value were attached to the acetate damasks purchased in 1948; promotion rather than distribution of merchan- dise information.seemed to be the ultimate objective. In.most instances the only information, the cut dimensions of the merchandise,.was provided on.price tickets attached by the retailer. With one exception, there did not appear to be any tendency to conserve inadequate supplies of civilian textiles through skimping measurements. A comparison of the original specifications of all materials in. the study with.the semi-standardized construction practices of the industry indicated that the table linens available in.l94§.in nearly all instances, were of medium quality or less. The numerous weaving imperfections occurring in the cotton damasks reflected the wartime lowering of stand- ards of inspection. Prior to that time had such merchandise reached the retail market, it would have been sold as "irregular." The faulty cone struction.may have accounted for the comparatively very low price. The average weight per square yard of all groups upon original tests were not sufficiently dispersed to seemingly account for the variability in the results of other laboratory tests. The gain in weight after laun- dry of all fabrics except the linen damasks was proportional to the loss in area. The nominal loss of area by the linens was offset by loss of fiber during laundry. 70 When the structure of warp and filling yarns of the same fiber were compared,there was little difference to be found in twist or size. Yarns of the same fiber and similar construction performed quite differently on both original and laundered breaking strength and dimensional stability tests. Therefore, it is to be assumed that inherent differences in the quality of the fiber from.which the yarns were spun had greater effect on strength and stability than the slight differences in construction. While the structure of the viscose rayon filling yarns in.Groups II and III was quite similar, their breaking strengths and direction of di- mensional change were quite dissimilar. The original breaking strength of the viscose rayons of the higher price was by far superior. The two groups of acetate rayon damasks were almost identical in yarn structure and yarn counts. The group which was purchased in 19#8 was superior to those purchased in 1945 in respect to original breaking strength in pounds, relationship of wet to dry strength, dimensional cone stancy throughout laundry as well as minimum area change. The better per- formance is attributed to the improved manufacturing techniques developed during the elapse of three years. Rather unexplainable is the fact that the acetate rayons of Group I increased in warp and filling strength after laundry while those in Group XI did not. The shrinkage of the acetates purchased in 1945 was not excessive. It is doubful that the increased price of the later purchases represents sufficient improvement to justify the entire additional cost. The increased price may be ac- counted for by increased material and labor costs and the removal of price controls which started an inflationary spiral in prices of tex- tiles in short supply. 71' The appearance of the acetate damasks afterlepeated laundering was not too attractive as they had lost body and appeared flimsy and dis- torted when placed on a flat surface. The tendency for hems to pull out during laundry in all damasks containing rayon.because of yarn slippage is a limiting service factor. In the three groups of damasks having cotton.yarns in the warp direc- tion, the yarns were very nearly of a size, but there was a considerable spread in the yarn counts per inch and in the breaking strengths. Those fabrics having the higher yarn counts in the warp had breaking strengths proportionally higher. The filling counts,irrespective of the fiber in this direction, were pmunrtional to the warp count. The amount of warp shrinkage that occurred was in direct relation to the warp and filling counts. The mercerized cotton yarns surpassed the unmercerized in all performance tests: initial and final breaking strength, dimensional ' stability, colorfastness to light and laundry, and the maintenance of a good appearance. Despite the loss in breaking strength and weight per square yard after laundry, the linen damasks still had a higher breaking strength and better dimensional stability than.the cotton damasks. When the actual appearance of the fabrics is considered, the linens were more attractive and might be expected to give satisfactory service. Where appearance is a consideration, the cost oftiualinen damasks was not unreasonable. Their price was only forty-seven cents more per square yard than the cotton and viscose rayon cloths of Group II which per- formed poorly and were unattractive in.appearance before laundry and became even.more so after. The cotton and viscose fabrics in.Group III 72 from an appearance standpoint before and after laundry were equally as attractive as the linens but were considerably higher in price. On a cost-performance basis the all-cotton damasks would be ex- pected to give the better service if the original dimensions were sufficiently generous to compensate for an excessive shrinkage in laundry. While the warp strengths of the acetate damasks were some- what higher both before and after laundry than those of the cotton damasks, the filling strengths of the acetates were considerably lower. As the cottons had a better balance in strength,'uew'could be expected to give better total serviceability. From.the results of breaking strength.tests performed after the series of fifty launderings, it was shown that rayon fibers do not suffer as severe losses in strength as do the natural fibers, cotton and linen. Further the acetate rayon.yarns used in the warp direction had better dimensional stability than did cotton and somewhat better stability than linen. The delustered yarns used in the filling direc- tion of the acetate damasks had considerably poorer breaking strengths than the bright yarns. The viscose yarns had higher breaking strengths than the acetates, but lost proportionally more of their strength when tested wet. Results of tests conducted on the original purchases of 1945 indicated a need for the manufacture of synthetic fibers with pre- dictable direction of dimensional change and the elimination of fluctua- tions in performance that occur throughout a series of launderings. For all rayons there was need to improve their wet strengths in relation to the dry. When wet breaking strengths are considered, only the cottons and linens gave satisfactory performance. U The elongation performance of fabrics after laundry did not follow original elongation results and the tendency to increase in elongation with a loss of strength. There was no positive association of price to all construction features and all performance factors. The intervention, however, of the many variables of construction, fiber content, individual differ- ences in performance by various fibers, and the initial differences in price of fibers must be taken into consideration. The one constant factor of the study, the damask construction, in itself is the most expensive of weaves. Unfortunately in some respects, the fabrics studied were not en- tirely typical of those usually found on the market in normal times. Had a wider range in quality been available, undoubtedly the better performance of those of excellent construction would have modified the conclusions drawn from this study. Observed results of the effects of laundry upon table linens in this study suggest further studies. The possibility of extending the laundry series presents itself. It might be expected that significant differences in the loss of strength by various fibers would be obtained and that the rayons would have a shorter life. In actual use laundry and ironing are but two of the ramifications of the wear complexity. The abrasion that occurs along edges of tables and on the surface of the cloth might contribute considerably to the degredation of tablecloths. When.the abrasion testing for this study has been completed and evaluated, it might be expected that the rayon fabrics would show a poor performance. While laboratory instruments and methods of abrasion testing have not at this time been deemed 74 entirely reliable in predicfing wear, some comparative results would prob- ably be obtained which would bo suggestive of abrasion hamstance by the different types of table linens. In addition to abrasion,soil which occurs in use and the harsher laundry procedures required to remove it would accelerate wear. Some methods of removing stains would also be expected to cause deterioration of the fibers. Thus the value of a wear study is indicated. The ex- cessive cost and time required to conduct wear studies are limiting factors in their widespread use. While laboratory studies cannot dupli- cate all conditions of actual use, they are of value in predicting comr~ parative tendencies in performance of various fibers. In.most instances the laboratory study errs in not being severe enough to reproduce results identical to those of wear. The addition of the one group of acetate rammuain 1948 significantly pointed out quality improvement at the mill level and the importance of continuous applied research studies in the field to keep pace with ad- vancements. Only as applied research is continued will it be possible to transform the scientific findings into the criteria whereby consumers can more intelligently judge purchases in a market of ever changing tex- tile materials. The development of new fibers, finishes, and construction features of yarn and weave were stepped up considerably during the war years at the instigation of government requirements for highly specialized tex- tiles. The results of these technological advances are now being put into use in consumer goods. The war' sponsored concentration of effort upon; textile improvement has become the impetus for further exhaustive research 75 and development in the field of consumer materials. Hence the neces- sity for ever continuim research to keep abreast of now unforeseen radical changes becomes imperative. I-Eany new products already are to be seen in the field of table linens. Unsupported plastics have been’ introduced. Plastic finishes on standardized fabrics reduce stain and soil retention which in turn may materially affect durability. The possibility of satisfactory disposable table coverings of non-woven types may likewise be a trend to watch. The advent of nylonuand perhaps some yet undiscovered new fiber to the table linen trade are not too far removed possibilities. The consumer question, which table covering shall be purchased to best serve its intended end use, .must be answered in the textile research laboratory. SILE’I.‘.RY The six groups of damask table linens discussed in this thesis were a part of a larger study of table fabrics of various fiber contents and constructions conducted at Michigan State College in an effort to determine the relationship between price and specifications in the origi- nal fabrics and the relation of cost to performance after a series of fifty launderings. Furthermaxu it was hoped to determine whether or not any obvious decrease in quality or performance occurred in.wartime pro- duced table linens as a result of the scarcity of civilian.textiles in” 1945. The table linens were purchased from department stores in Lansing and Detroit at various times dependent upon their availabity. Limited production imposed restrictions on the procurement of identical fabrics, quality ranges, and adequate quantities. The original dimensions of the tablecloths and napkins were taken to compute the cost per square yard. Physical tests before laundry included weight per square yard, yarn and weave analysis, and dry and wet breaking strengths for the determination of specificatmms of the original fabrics. The fiber content was also verified. The fabrics were subjected to a series of fifty launderings and subsequent ironings under controlled procedures duplicating acceptable home procedures. Jeasurements for dimensional change were taken after each of the first' fire washings and again after the tenth, fifteenth, twentieth, twenti- fifth, thirtieth, fortieth, and fiftieth laundry. Yarn counts were 77 taken after the first, fifth, tenth, twentieth, and fiftieth laundry. After the completion of the fifty launderings, the fabrics were tested for breaking strength and weight per square yard. The effects of laune dry were subjectively evaluated by two persons. Change in appearance, loss of color, and deterioration of heme were noted. The total of post- laundry tests became the basis for the determination of performance characteristics of the various types of damasks and for making relative comparisons. There was little difference to be found in the yarn structures when fibers of the same kind were used. Differences in performance could not be attributed to variations in.yarn construction but rather to differences in the inherent quality of the fiber from which the yarns were spun. The rayons had adequate breaking strengths when tested dry but had considerably lower strengths when wet than either the cottons or linens. Percentage loss of strength after laundry was not so great for either the acetate or viscose rayons as for the cottons and linens. They were” therefore, assumed to be affected less by the action of laundry. Losses or gains in dimension also were not as great for rayon yarns as for cotton and linen yarns, but the rayons showed more tendency to shrink and stretch.throughout laundry. The manrmade fibers, however, reached a point of relaxation before the natural fibers and had less tendency to shrink progressively through the series of launderings. When the damasks having cotton warp yarns were compared, the one group having mercerized yarns proved superior to those having unmercerized yarns on; all performance tests. 78 There was no marked relationshhplntween price and quality of cone struction in the original table linens, nor was there any great associa~ tion between cost and performance after laundry. The variability of inr dividual characteristics and differences in initial cost of the various fibers seemed to account for the fact that closer relationships did not exist. From the results of laboratory analyses before and after laundry,. it would be expected that the rayon fabrics would give more satisfactory service with respect to a lower shrinkage and less loss of strength from laundry. The cottons and linens because of their better wet strengths would not suffer so greatly from handling during laundry. On a strictly price basis, the cotton damasks could be expected to give better total service if they were of a sufficient original size to allow for an appreciable shrinkage. The improvement observed in the acetate rayons purchased three years after the outset of the study indicated the need for continuous applied research to keep abrent of improvements and new developments at the mill level. LITERATURE CITED l. 2. 5. 6. 8. 9. 10. ll. 12. 15. LITERATURE CITED American Society for Testing Materials,-Committee D—l5 on Textile materials,,A. S. T. M. standards on textile materials. Philadel- phia: The Society, 1944. Ashcraft, A. G., "The interpretation of laboratory tests as quality' indices in textiles," American Dyestuff Reporter, 5} (November 20, 1944) 486-491. Berton,.Helen, and others, "The colorfastness of certain types of dyes on women's and children's wearing apparel fabrics," American Dyestuff Reporter, 31 (December 7,.19 2) 605-627,.641. Chaky, Jerome D., "Some of the whys and hows of shrinkage control," Rayon Textile Monthly, 22 (November, 1941) 681-682. Clayton, Howard D., "Elimination of chaos from shrinkage testing," American Dyestuff Reporter, 55 (July 29,.1946) 566-574. Commercial Standmxics 59-44, Textiles-~testing and reporting, Fourth edition. Washington, D. 0.: U. 8. Government Printing Office,.l944. Davis, Rebecca Tucker, A comparative study of price and performance of wearing apparel textiles. Unpublished master's thesis, Pennsyl- vania State College, 1942. "Dimensional change," American Dyestuff Reporter, 56 (April 21, 1947) 199-201 0 “Dimensional changes,“ American Dyestuff Reporter, 56 (December 29, 1947) 785-784. Elliott and Nelson, Inc., Irish linen, the fabric of elegance. New'ruk: The Irish Linen Merchants' Association, 1945. Gaston, Alice 0., and Fletcher, Hazel M., "Shrinkage of cotton, linen; and rayon fabrics due to laundering, when pressed under cone trolled tensions," Journal of Home Economics, 56 (November, 1944) 516-520. Graydon, Mary H.,,and others, “Mechanical degredation of rayon fabrics in domestic laundry prcedures," American Dyestuff Reporter, 56 (July 14, 1947) 597-599. Hale, Nary Deck,,A study of standardization of textile fabrics. Un- published doctor's dissertation, Pennsylvania State College, 1957. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 22. 26. 27. 28. Hess, Katharine Paddock,.Textile fibers and their use. New York: J. B. Lippincott Company, 1941. Howorth, Ruth Mary,.A study of the relationship between the cone struction and the durability of cotton fabrics. Unpublished master's thesis, Pennsylvania State College, 1941. Hoye, John, Staple cotton fabrics. New York: MoGraw-Hill Book Company,,l942. Keeney, Pauline E., A comparative study of some drapery fabrics available in 1942 and 1945. Columbia: Missouri Agricultural Experiment Station, Research Bulletin 574, 1945. Keeney, Pauline E.,.The effects of wartime measures on cotton.dress fabrics. Columbia: Missouri Agricultural Experiment Station,. Research Bulletin 575,.1945. Lomax, James, Textile testing. London: Longmans, Greenzind Comrv pany, 1957- Lyle, Dorothy Siegert, and Black, Dorothy Catherine,."2ffect of wringing upon tensile strength of rayon fabrics," American Dye- stuff Reporter, 55 (October 25, 1944) 441-444, 455-457. Matthews, J. M., Textile fibers, Fifth edition. New York: John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1947. Morrison, Bess V., and others, "How the war affected civilian tex- tiles,".Journa1 of Home Economics, 58 (January, 1946) 21-50. Morton,,w. E., "The designing of fabrics to meet consumer require- ments,“ Journal of the Textile Institute, 59 (June, 1943) 187-192. " Business Week (January 12, 1946) 58. "Nonshrink rayons, Phelps, Ethel L., Outlines for textile studies, Third edition, Re- . O 0 9 , ' Vised. Minneapolis: Burgess Publishing Company, 1945. nProgress in new rayon fabric stabilization process," Rayon Textile Monthly,,28 (November, 1947) 597-598. "Revised table cxf deniers and filament numbers of American rayon” yarns,” Rayon Textile Monthly, 26 (March, 1945) 79. "Revised table of deniers and filament numbers of American rayoni yarnef,Rayon Textile Konthly, 29 (March, 1948) 51. Roseberry, Elizabeth Douglass, A study of the relationship between; the construction and durability of viscOee rayon fabrics. Unpub- lished doctor's dissertation, Pennsylvania State College, 1941. 50- 51. 52. 55- 82 Shapiro, Leonard, "Permanent finishes on rayon," American Dyestuff Reporter,.57 (January 12, 1943) 16-20, 29. Skinkle, John H., Textile testing, physical, chemical,and micro- scopical. New York: Chemical Publishing Company, 1940. Sumner, Lottie E., The effect of laundering and wear on linen, cot- ton,.and rayon and cotton napkins. Unpublished master's thesis,, Purdue University, 1944. The Textile Foundation,.Flax and its products, production and utilization. Washington, D. 0.: The Foundation,.l942. APPENDIX Plate 11 SUTTIZIG SHIRT FOR S EETIOIIIZIG TABL ECLOTI‘IS Section B: laundry Section C: control hem 1/ -." ha} 16. 1/8' has 16 Ititchee per inch 1/4' hand he: 14 stitces wer inch 1:: ‘p m]_.¢‘.'n,m Section A: original teeth; cotton D: laundry and after laundry teetmg 54' x 54' scale: 1/8' = 1" 85 Plate 12 CUTTIEG CHART FOR TESTING SECTIONS "A” AND "D" .--.—— 4—,.-*-_—— WL.) {:1 A: F..2 A1 52 wt: W1 w; W3 we we“ \th A2: A14 F1 F6 1", '7 FL1 F3 Isl e2 |r1 F7 wt U7 w: Ufwlo '4’ ' fio 1 lie? scale: 5/3" = 1" Explanation: A 1-5: abrasion F 1-10: filling breaking strength Fa 1&2: fadeometer N 1-10: warp breaking strength Ht 1-5: weight per square yard Y-F: filling twist and yarn.number Y-J: warp twist and yarn number 56 Plate 15 CUTTII‘IG CHART FOR TSSTIIIG NAPKINS "a" and "b", "c" and "d“ Napkins a and c Napkins b and d “flglr £;;;;: \dlldz we orato! nuts of; FL [‘1 L] f3 J! [5, [1_ F~5 F70 Y-F MHZ Uta u: w? I.” u)? u). 14.) scale: 5/8" = 1" Napkins a and : original testing b Napkins c and d: laundry and after laundry testing Napkins e and f: controls Explanation: F l-lO: filling breaking strength W l-lO: warp breaking strength Wt 1-5: weight per square yard Y-F: filling yarn number Y-W: warp yarn number 87 1 one: mm.sa : uvfig mean: :m>flm so: = we H wn mmOOma>. io\pmwe 4 . : 11.. x L. 4 .. \ (whaw (u.b m : Hex: : mH N QH : \U I Wm Ufa Q0 h B AJ\HJH+ : OO.mH : meo z me K DH : - m masseuse oo.mfin supple. ;.p_ mean an x me o z .3 coeeoo mo\t s _ HHH cache am.m = ;_ . escmn as s eH = w .a muCOnap no\taae Om.m : ;.x: : DH % wfl : :_ K Hm MO\MWHB C®.w : xu.a = mH K wH = . ; -m cad F0 FCHE .\ : r_>e = ma x oH e we ; He no snag a a as.s a portend Leia mouse ma x ea e an x 7m eoseoo eo\tcae HH seeps \H'H. when DOHPH» : at.wm : Max‘s? Shaw N . on mm“ = K H be 2 : mC.mH : rw\v Samhv Na K mu : 5 L mm = Qhwmmwh coco.IeHoQ J¢.mam ewuuzag maxw open; mw x mm o ,m A _H mpwpmow ans 9 M stoma = mo.m : mtxm : Gd N Om : as Y mm = QhUMH = CO.WH : wn\m . = ma x mH = wfi h flm = thcB emphasesso oo.nfia supessa me\m meats - ma x ma e on m an mesomos anode H Qsopw mswz moflha men oars mogrehss soaoo mmsosH CH mafia a? mmncsH sfi pumpeoo newness moose mo mo ope; mafia we mean hmafim meoo use moa:o; Cessna hmnfinm QwCKomHLnB asoao L anu-»q 4:4 anm_uounaxe anion ZéHH aégaaza m. a.: w asses 88 .NO.©\...m.,,..t...Qi : ... a . = mm X NW. = = AHMMZ .NOG\:...0.QH : - z. a : N...“ on um m : DH...4.....HZ Om .n. H : a 2.. .1 : = a... 2.. b = JH..UB on.» = :wo = = .5 w is = as“ e m. .MH 2 n _. Q = z a a -H Cm. : DH rm? om.mH.w 9.1..th -... mv...5 mp4- .3 O a... H L. fimEHH mimosa. > csoho Ow mo.a z me\m = = on s ea c mom.e nadir. = 05% = = ,me K «m = fleece mw.H : m....\\m = = mom. H wen : SOHJB mm.H w auomceq moxw moses o o. s «m :oopoo noose >H OHHOHO Mu~ewwz mowhnw mqufixéflp «0.0.6303.in .HOHCU mmCOCH QM WCHUQWPWZ JOHMUCH CH PCmu #QOU mhmficfigz $4.0ka .%O .HO $04.02“ mNHmw .HO MNHW .Hmuflflrm mmuOO USN moa~0mh Cfluflfiwz Hmflgz SPOHOQHQQB CSOpH—U .Ppcoo m figs 89 umBOH op pmmnmfl; Seem umxznh .fimpfl on; mo 3 my map oa hmMmh woeogp mass .m onmuafia .m new e.em “my “.mm Aev am Amy we “we wesm.m Amv mm.m amass e flay e.eo Amy w.no Amy no any we Amy mmnfl.m As He. coppno sH “AV o.se AHV H.ana any mm AHV me An emae.s any ma.m smoomap neopooo HHH hey o.oe Aev a.ae Amy mm flay om Amy mama.e Aev afi.m mwooma> :eooooo HH Any 0.0m Amy m..a Am as Amy em AHV same.“ Aav mn.e assumes Ha Amy o.en Amy e.mw AHV Hm Adv me An swoe.. eAmV an.uw oneness H mstHHm apex mnflaHHA apex shew mpmsyn meow wnmnvm gzmpcoo @SOAU samsmppm msflxempm mam pszoo shew Hem panama Hoe paoo Hmnfim name amaze qamH as: as mmae.qum zH emoo so aHnmaqma me m passe 9O 3 ..-.......: “Av as. + CV man: omenno.x vaow mswzum Hep psmflm_ .. L‘y . .1 11 Tue... 1. .. \. . SO. 0% 9:07...pr "PO/HM ruauawh ‘I. C“.‘ NGOCH zfigflmHPJ axmficmhm hug 1““n. I. C mi..a_.£.......d we as Amv as. t E 2. + as .J .x.' I. r ,u .u _. R . .\ . l.— va as.“ Amy mm.mu I-‘I|.s‘::| :. -.‘ «nova one me asap map on gowns neummACoae AmV om.mu ..s- any As. Aev m:.nu AAV ea.» AHV cc. AHV we. I .mv wn.a GA mpmAesc :mewH £09900 m: an a> ICOAAoo mmoomA> unoppoo mpsmes ow >H HHH HH was“. mo.:e;.eu a QB zeiseqa I.-.“1I.‘|’tl.1t | £400 :31 f—{ W PHUC: Aev mo.mu; ANV 2.9 sflnv As.m. mesomoe A msAHH4- ape: @4-w mausga Asmpso msoau mac_. no Htcvosw HA Hma pmoo HmAHA 91 wQOflPUCHfiFHma$0.0 Gnu; MO mnemAu a ampme no mo mangoes .A mQCAeszepmpme am we mmcem>u .m msoA+eCAFAmAmc ov me m on.bn .U meowwrsamAmAmw on we oneness .m new om tr wow mm m :mCAH > 2.- o- .-.... , . no. . 00 on em. 7 f mooom~> o e. .- , - J 1 eAe my gr cmufi escapee HLH 3.1. 1...... «NW .9... \. “.0.vawa 0U 01V- C “V .4. L .. . 0C0. ‘ AWO H DOC Om 0C ONE... “L. H to .3 is: o i u.x m n .oo . .wLL .mNCH 900 an? wmhc QM? m P #0 HN mam woom wmm.m was swam nNm.w mpepmoo H Assoc hmflsmm po:§:z momusAu 9:500 umHCmm honing mos «Ax NHL pampcoo asoao passeaflh shew Amwte ammfisHHm chew mesh ponflm ozHAAE $3....» mzemmmz AKA nuEQAQQALAB A<3A3Amo P.4J. r _ .. F Amy wfiHAAHm and amen m0 wwwNA<2¢ HH mHan 92 \me.L§~..J.H £03m .HmuPAd. chHOM..M.-GZJw¢.Hmn#mU @N MO wwzwkmukrw emu MFH.....;FH,..U «1.,me .HmuPQQ u4.4.0:”.r..._.p.rfl.m,.HmupmuU 0.? MO m #meer oO hhumwwa nowm pmp+m mzomxymarhmpmw 0o mo mwapm>m .9 mquSwH :uam memw acofiwucwxpmpmw mm mo wwwhm>m .w omoal Hm..l hm..l ox..l H . t r.. I vooai mMoHl mH.HI ©O.HI mbo.l Cw. ! cmcwfi .w> pm.pu Hm.ba cv.mu op.>: w .a: p;.o- m .m- mo.nn m.au wu.m- a .a: 5a.xu coppco >H ma.mt m>.m| . Iccppoo OHHH mc.mu om.m| Hm.al mg.vl wa.>l Hm.ul mu.ml wn.mu mH.®t nv.ml Q<.au mm.wa mmoowflb Icogpoo vs. I wm. I mm.HI Hg.wl mh.ml mm.wt .w.HI va.al mm.al bu.at CH.HI mm. I méaumow Hx wu.p- ra.flu b>.fi- pg..- 0. m- wH.mn “Q.H- mm.au wv.Hn Hm.H- ac.fia cm.wa mg pmox «H III.“II.I.IE 1‘11! 1‘ 1| 1.1.1.]! 9 I ‘III I QI...;' 1|..Ii... {It ‘1. I. I... 1‘ ‘ hm ow Om mm b“ ma OH m w m u H pzmpcoo QSOHO mtxahmnnrcq mo anfisz hmmfla . .I 1|... It‘l‘ I-‘l...-‘tIIIII.“.,[|‘lil.1“lll.-nl.|u‘lll“|l.-“Ill-‘.’.“ > -‘.-xl\.l01‘|"ll.ll1|“l.‘ll.l|ll Emma gum :q Ewan ; a4 :Hnud H; mm¢ .0 mo mwcpm>w .3 cm ma OH m mmmflpmscswq mo pmaasz II‘I--“I‘|.‘.I||-I.t“I1-i ll 1--.- uixi _mmu mum 3H mogqmu q;mam;aqug uquqHH ma manwe ‘I. ‘v- -‘Jl‘ I"I- pumpzoo ummfih Q5090 94 L“ b- 0 Ch I O I ,—I O I w I> O C . I H C O C . I U) <3. 0 I r b: O k. I ‘ O I A} 0 r—l I (O H 0 r4 I Sr hhwfiruH moum pmpmw mmowguerhmHmv m mo muahmbw .U 0) III 4 \ \. . I. .I II {II-II .1\ \ .. \l. II.~.U \ .1. uronpQHrLr LOGO .Hnumrw. In LAMOwfiC “u. tIOJtpu «H ““0 Z. ...HG>I.. O 1' \I I): hpunsaH comm pmpmw uQOHpqudpwpmo on mo agupmbm .0 Cd. . I .II I .. .I .1 .I It... I I. 2 3&4 II .3. o MHJQSQI :oaa pame upoww.cw;papao a mo oIvhc>I P 3.HI my. I rw. I smgfla > a. m:.:I mw.aI cv.II Hp. I b ._I my.wI cm.oI «n.3I mm.wI pm.mI xw.mI wr.mI coppoo O>H r mpauI wc.5I u..mI Jo.mI w .HI m .oI mo.wI mg.mI um.mI um.mI aw.uI ”c.mI museuwp I opgeo oHHH mm.wI mp.mI mv.pI w<.II wo.mI Hm. I Hu.wI mv.¢I a .wI oo.¢I ww.mI vo.mI mmOOmfl> Isopgoo @HH ma. I mc.HI wm.LI mo.II a&.aI ec.mI CH.mI OH.mI om.mI om.mI H .nI Hm.mI mpwpmow “Hm m¢.¢I ma.wI mo.vI v¢.wI bx.wI ec.wI mm.wI ma.wI mu.VI mu.VI ow.mI Hm.mI mgwpmom wH I i"... -‘-t‘,I.lIl|II’lIII‘I‘fI..-lu‘||'-- ,‘ I‘ltitt.’l-n’ I ‘.-‘|‘I‘ ND om ow Cm mm on mH OH m w m H pumpzoo QSORa .msammussmg mo pmnasm . hmmHm .‘.-ul0|\‘l. I- II 1.... '0’" ‘i‘r‘ 1‘1 i-‘i‘lf It’ll. ‘li- ‘ II" ' -I‘ .II -I‘ -1-!‘.“Ill“ .‘ Urump Bane 4;. 2H ugano 4mg; 3. £93 Table 15 COMPARISON OF YARN COUNTS ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIFTY IAUNDERII‘IG WARP F ILL ING Fiber Per Cent Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Change* a I acetate 95 98 I+5.16 91 92 + 1.10 XIa acetate 94 94 .oo 90 92 I 2.20 IIb cottons 86 85 -§.#9 _ viscose ‘ 58 65 + 8.62 111° cotton? 96 9s +2.08 - viscose 89 92 + 5.57 Ivd cotton 7# 74 .oo 65 70 *11.10 8 v linen 72 72 .oo 84 86 + 2.58 * difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the originaI a. average of 50 determinations on each test b. average of 50 determinations on each test c. average of 40 determinations on each test d. average cf 20 determinations on each.test 96 Table 16 COMPARISON OF WEIGHTS PER SQUARE YARD IN OUNCES ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIFTY LAUKDERINGS Per Cent Group Fiber Content Original Laundered Change* I3 acetate 5.4067 5.8005 + 7.28 n“ acetate 5.5874 5.6514 + .79 IIb cotton-viscose 4.6516 5.5627 +15.29 IIIc cottonrviscose 5.4154 6.0%86 +11.75 Ivd cotton 5.1559 5 .6526 4-10.10 II8L linen 5. 5896 5.1447 - 4.54 * difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the original a. average of 6 determinations on each.test b. average of 10 determinations on each test 0. average of 8 determinations on each test d. average of 4 determination on each test 97 Table 17 COIPARISOI'I OF 'II'ARP BREAK Il‘I'G STRI‘E‘IGTIL‘S IN POUNDS ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIFTY LAUHDERINGS DRY I'I'ET Fiber Per Cent Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Change* IdL acetate 68.4 74.0 + 8.19 56.6 45.0 +17.49 x1a acetate 72.8 52.5 -27.88 45.5 55.5 -25.45 11b cottone 71.2 47.4 -55.45 80.0 61.5 -25.12 viscose 111c cottone 152.1 95.5 -27.71 124.0 95.8 -22.74 viscose rvd cotton 60.8 44.6 -26.64 68.1 46.4 -51.86 V‘1 linen 92.2 60.8 -54.06 126.6 72.8 -42.50 * difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the original a. average of 50 determinations on each test b. average 0f 50 determinations on each test c. average of 40 determinations on each test d. average of 20 determinations on each test 98 Table 18 COI'EARISQII OF FILLING BRE‘IKII-IG STRE-BTPLS IN POUNDS ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIFTY LAUI‘IDERII‘IGS DRY WET Fiber Per Cent Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Change* I acetate 56.6 58.2 4 4.57 19.6 24.5 +25.oo x1 acetate 59.6 28.0 -29.29 24.4 17.9 -26.64 II cotton? viscose 48.6 50.9 r 4.75 20.2 24.7 +22.28 III cottons Viscose 77.6 7900 +1080 5501 5406 + 4055 Iv cotton 64.4 54.8 -14.91 67.7 60.9 -10.04 v linen 90.4 60.5 -57.50 96.2 66.6 -50.77 5 difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the original. a. average of 50 determinations on each test b. average of 50 determinations on each.test 0. average of 40 determinations on each.test d. average of 20 determinations on each test 99 Table 19 COI-LPARISON OF WARP BRE‘IIZII‘TG STREEIGTH IIIDICES ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIFTY LAUHDER NGS DRY WET Fiber Per Cent Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Change* Ia acetate .72 .76 + 5.50 .59 .44 +14.45 118 acetate .77 .56 -27.78 .46 .55 -25.62 118 cottonr .85 .57 -50.05 .95 .74 -20.08 viscose IIIa cottone 1.58 .97 ~29.48 1.29 .98 ~24.96 viscose Iva cotton .82 ' .60 ~28.o5 .92 .65 -51.52 Va linen 1.28 .84 -54.10 1.76 1.01 -45.46 * difference between original and aundered as a per cent of the original. a. breaking strength indices computed from average yarn count and average breaking strength on each.teet 100 Table 20 COMPARISOF OF FILLING BREAKING SI.EEGTH INDICES ORIGINAL FABRICS ANY AFTER FIFTY LAUNDERINGS DRY WET Fiber Per Cent Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Change* Ia acetate .110 0112 + 5075 022 027 +£6.14 11a acetate .44 _ .50 -50.68 .27 .19 -27.78 IIa cottons viscose .84 .81 - 5.52 .55 .59 + 9.88 IIIa cottons Viscose .87 086 " 1.15 057 - 058 + 1046 111a cotton 1.02 .78 -25.55 1.07 .87 -18.69 Va linen 1.08 .70 -55.42 1.16 .77 -52.74 * difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the original a. breaking strength indices computed from average yarn count and average breaking strength on each test r110; 101 Table 21 COI-‘EPARISON OF ‘I'IARP ELOIIGATIOIIS IN PER CTI'I‘I ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIF"Y LAUUDBRIHGS Fiber Per Cent' Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Ohange* 1a acetate 52.1 56.1 +12.46 40.7 44.5 + 8.84 11a acetate 55.0 20.0 -59.59 55.7 26.2 -26.61 11b cottonr 14.4 15.5 + 6.25 15.0 16.5 +10.00 viscose 111c cottone 24.2 19.2 ~20.66 ---- 15.5 ----- viscose 1vd cotton 15.0 _ 14.2 + 9.25 14.1 15.4 - 4.96 va linen 15.2 10.4 -2l.21 --- 6.1 ----- * difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the original a. average of 50 determinations on each.test b. average of 50 determination; on.each.teet c. average of 1+0 determinations on each test d. average of 20 determinations on each test 102 Table 22 COMPARISON OF FILLING ELONGATI NS IN PER CENT ORIGINAL FABRICS AND AFTER FIFTY LAUNDERINGS DRY WET Fiber Per Cent Per Cent Group Content Original Laundered Change* Original Laundered Change* 1a acetate 50.9 52.2 + 4.21 46.2 47.5 + 2.81 11a acetate 51.4 16.4 -47.77 45.2 26.8 -4o.71 IIb cottons viscose 51.9 50.4 - 4.70 29.5 26.9 - 8.81 III° cotton- viscose 29.9 55.4 +11.70 28. 26.1 - 7.45 1vd cotton 20.6 17.5 -15.05 18.4 15.6 -15.22 va linen 17.4 10.9 -57.56 8.1 6.7 -17.28 * difference between original and laundered as a per cent of the original a. average of 50 determinations on each test b. average of 50 determinations on each test c. average of 40 determinations on each.test d. average of 20 determinations on.each test ‘ III I“ 952 ‘0 25 '57 "v27“ M 11 ’53 JUL 3Q 'Il'oofi USE ONLY; "l. . A h . 2 .LL-¢.M._.-_e_._.__- ‘__. _ .— L—LM --_._.._._—.__—._A_._._ _A.a_ 1 i_-_-_.. MIC IIIIIIIIILIIIIIIIILIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIILIIIIIIES