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A SURVEY OF THE imam-JPROBLEMS

OF FIFTY-THREE COLLEGE caustusma “

COMMERC|AL PATTERNS IN Basin-Mme.
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTEON CLAssgs.- '

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A SURVEY OF THE FITTING PROBLEMS OF FIFTY-THREE COLLEGE
GIRLS USING COMMERCIAL PATTERNS IN BEGINNING
CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION CLASSES

By
Earyalice Kelly glenn

A THESIS

Submitted to the School of Graduate Studies of Michigan
State College of Agriculture and Applied Science
in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of

EASTER OF ARTS

Department of Textiles, Clothing and Related Arts

1953

 

 

TH ES

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The author wishes to express her sincere appreciation
to Miss ENelyn Mansfield for her constant inapiration and
capable direction. and to Dr. Thelma BishOp for invaluable
advice on the anatomical classifications of figure variations.

She also wishes to eXpress her gratitude to Miss Hazel
Strahan and Miss Marion Hillhouse for their continued
interest and encouragement.

Grateful recognition is due to Hr. Edward Porte,
General Manager, ngue Pattern Service, and Ir. Herbert
BiJur. Director of Design, McCall Corporation, for per-
.mission to include tracings of pattern designs.

The writer wants especially to thank her husband.
Bill, whose understanding c00peration contributed to the
completion of this study.

3175194

All drawings of Vogue Patterns have been reproduced
by permission - Copyright The Conde Nast Publications, Inc.,
1955.

Tracings of McCall Patterns have been reproduced by
permission of the McCall Corporation.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter Page
I. INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Statement of Problem . . . . . . . . . . . .

Survey of Related Studies . . . . . . . . .
Selection of Pattern Size . . . . . . . . .
Classification of Fitting Problems . . . . .

II. TECHNIQUE OF PATTERN FITTING . . . . . . . . .

m-JPCfll-J

III. GENERAL METHODS OF PATTERN ALTERATION . . . . 15
IV. ANALYSIS OF FITTING PROBLEMS . . . . . . . . . 18
V. PRESENTATION OF DATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
VI. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . 216
BIBLIOGRAPHY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
APPENDIX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256

 

 

 

 

.I I'll I'll-Ill

Table
l.
2.
3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

12.

13.

14.

15.

LIST OF TABLES

Sizes of the Fifty-Three Dress Patterns Fitted.
Standard Body Measurements for Dress Patterns .

Blouses Altered to Correct a Bulge at the
Front Armscye. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Tightness at the
BustlineO O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Ease at
the Bustline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Ease
Below the Bustline . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Ease
Above the BuStline O O O O O O O O O O O O O

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Length
Over Side of Bust . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate
Length Along Basic Neckline . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate
Width at Front Neckline . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Scye
Length at Center Front . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate Scye
Length at Center Front . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate Scye
Length at Center Back . . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Tightness Over
Shoul der Blades 0 O o o o o O o o o o o o o o

Blouses Altered to Correct Horizontal
Wrinkles Below Base of Neck in Front and Back

11

Page

22

24

26

27

29

3O

31

32

33

34

36

39

41

a

Table
16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

22.

23.

24.

26.

27.

28.

29.

LIST OF TABLES (continued)

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Length at
Center Front Between Scye line and Waistline.

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Length at
Center Back Between Scye Line and Waistline .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate Width
in Side Front Near Lower Armscye . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Width in
Side Front Near Lower Armscye . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate Width
in Side Back Near Lower Armscye . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Width in
Side Back Near Lower Armscye . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct a Bulge at Upper
Part of the Back Armscye . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct a Bulge at Lower
Curve of the Back Armscye . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct a Bulge at the
End of the Back Waistline Dart . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Width
Through the Shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Excess Length
Between Bustline and Waistline . . . . . . .

Blouses Altered to Correct Inadequate Length
Between Bustline and Waistline . . . . . . .

Sleeves Altered to Correct Excess Front Cap
Height 0 O O O o o O o O o O 0 o o o o o o O

Sleeves Altered to Correct Excess Back Cap
He 1ght C O O O O O O O O O O I O O O O O O O

111

Page

42

44

46

47

49

51

54

56

58

64

LIST OF TABLES (continued)
Table Page

50. Sleeves Altered to Correct Excess Length
Between Elbow and Birth . . . . . . . . . . 65

51. Sleeves Altered to Correct Inadequate
Length 0 C O O O O O O O O O O O 0 O O O O 66

52. Sleeves Altered to Correct Excess Width
Above Elbow O O O O O O O 0 O O O O O O O O 67

55. Sleeves Altered to Correct Inadequate Width . 68

54. Skirts Altered to Correct Side Seams That
SWing Forward 0 O O O O O O O O O O O 0 O O 69

55. Skirts Altered to Correct Outward Swing at
Side seams O 0 O O O O O 0 O O O O O O O O 71

56. Skirts Altered to Correct Tightness Over
Thighs C C O O O O O O C O O O O O O O O O 73

57. Skirts Altered to Correct Cupping Under
Abdomen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

58. Skirts Altered to Correct Cupping Under Hips. 76

59. Fitting Problems Found in Group of Fifty-
Three College Girls . . . . . . . . . . . . '225

40. Fitting Problems Caused by Variations in
Bone Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

41. Fitting Problems Caused by Variations in
the Distribution of Flesh . . . . . . . . . 226

42. Fitting Problems Caused by Variations in
Posture or Bone Structure . . . . . . . . . 227

45. Fitting Problems Caused by Variations in
the Distribution of Flash or Bone
structure 0 O O O 0 O O O O O O O O O O O O 2'28

44. Figure Variations Causing the Most Frequent
Fitting Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

1V

LIST OF TABLES (continued)

Table Page

45. Comparison of Increased Darting and Increased
Width for Specific Areas. . . . . . . . . . . 250

46. Comparison of Increased Flare and Increased
Width for Specific Areas. . . . . . . . . . . 250

47. Fitting Problems Indicating that the Pattern
was too Small for Bone Structure . . . . . . 251

48. Fitting Problems Indicating that the Pattern
was too Large for Bone Structure . . . . . . 252

49. Comparison of Increased and Decreased
Measurements for Specific Areas . . . . . . . 255

LIST OF FIGURES
Figure Page
I. Areas Checked in Fitting . . . . . . . . . . 9
II. Methods of Transferring Alteration Darts . . 15
III. Methods of Slashing and Spreading a Pattern. 14

vi

LIST OF PATTERNS

Pattern Page
1. Dress and Jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
2. Blouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
5. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
4. Dress and Bolero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
5. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
6. Dress and Jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
7. Suit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
8. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
9. Suit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
10. Dress and Jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
11. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
12. Dress and Bolero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
15. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
14. Dress and Jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
15. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
16. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
17. Suit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
18. Dress and Bolero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
19. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
20. Dress and Bolero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156

21. Dress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159

vii

LIST

OF PATTERNS

Pattern

22. Dress . . . . .
25. Suit . . . . . .
24. Suit . . . . . .
25. Dress . . . . .
26. Dress . . . . .
27. Dress and Jacket
28. Blouse . . . .
29. Dress . . . . .
50. Suit . . . . . .
51. Dress . . . . .
52. Dress . . . .

55. Dress and Jacket
54. Dress . . . . .
55. Dress . . . . .
56. Suit . . . . . .
57. Blouse . . . . .
58. Dress and Jacket
59. Suit . . . . . .
40. Dress and Bolero
‘41. Blouse . . . . .
.42. Suit . . . . . .
45. Dress . . . . .

viii

(continued)

Page

LIST OF PATTERNS

Pattern

44. Suit . . . . . .
45. Dress and Bolero
46. Suit . . . . . .
47. Dress and Bolero
48. Dress . . . . .
49. Suit . . . . . .
50. Blouse . . . .

51. Dress and Jacket
52. Dress . . . .

55. Dress and Bolero

(continued)
Page
. . . . . . . . . . . 193
. . . . . . . . . . . 196
. . . . . . . . . . . 198
. . . . . . . . . . . 201
. . . . . . . . . . . 203
. . . . . . . . . . . 205
. . . . . . . . . . . 207
. . . . . . . . . 209
. . . . . . . . . . . 212
. . . . . . . . . 214

I. INTRODUCTION
A. Statement of Problem

Perfection of fit in a dress or suit is often more
important than any other single factor in determining the
total effectiveness of an ensemble. However, few individuals
have the skill required to analyze fitting problems and make
the pattern alterations necessary to achieve the exactness
of fit desired. Too often, a well constructed garment of
beautiful fabric does not bring satisfaction to the wearer
simply because it lacks the quality of enhancing the figure
by concealing the irregularities and emphasizing the good
features.

Recognizing that the fit of a garment plays such a
significant role in clothing, this survey was conducted
for the purpose of investigating the fitting problems that
occurred in an.unse1ected group of fifty-three college girls
using commercial patterns in the beginning clothing cons
struction classes. Specific objectives were to find how
frequently each fitting problem occurred; to show what
problems to look.for when fitting commercial patterns in
a group of this type; to discover whether it is advisable

to select pattern size according to bone structure; and to

determine whether or not a knowledge of pattern fitting
and alteration would be valuable to the average person
in making clothes that fit well.

All of the girls fitted in this study were in the
beginning clothing construction classes during a one year
period. Their ages varied from.eighteen to twenty-three.
and the patterns they used ranged in size from eleven

through eighteen as shown in the following table.

TABLE 1
SIZES OF THE FIFTY-THREE DRESS PATTERNS FITTED

 

 

11 4
12 15
13" 1
14‘ 19
15 2
16 11
17 O
18 1

 

Each student had two pattern fittings; one for her
blouse and the other for her dress. Individual appointments
were scheduled allowing one-half hour for each blouse pattern
fitting and one hour for the dress pattern fitting. All of
the blouse patterns had a basic neckline and set-in sleeves.

The dress patterns were one-piece, or suit type. Many of

 

 

5
the one-piece dresses had a bolero or Jacket. The design
of the dress pattern selected depended upon the previous
experience and skill of the individual in clothing

construction.
B. Survey of Related Studies

Before starting this investigation. a survey was made
by the author to ascertain the extent of previous studies
in the area of pattern fitting and alteration. A.1etter
and questionnaire were sent to each Textiles and Clothing
Department that had three or more students enrolled for
graduate study. The letter and questionnaire used in this
survey may be found on pages 257 and 258 in the Appendix.

Fifty-seven questionnaires were sent to the various
department heads. and forty-eight were returned to the
writer with the requested information. Forty-five of these
stated that no theses had been written in the area of
pattern fitting and alteration. Three theses in related
problems were reported, however examination of these
studies indicated that they were not sufficiently pertinent

to warrant a review in this thesis.

C. Selection of Pattern Size

Standard body measurements for different size garment
patterns have been accepted by all of the large pattern
companies. The latest revision of measurements was published
in.l944 by the National Bureau of Standards of the United
States Department of Commerce in Dress Patterns, Commercial

Standard CSl3-44.

TABLE 2
STANDARD BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR DRESS PATTERNS

(All measurements in inches)

 

Misses
Size (number) 12 l4 16 18 20
Bust ~ — 30 32 34 36 38
W81 t 25 26% 28 30 32
Hipi 33 35 37 39 41
Juniors
Size (number) ll 15 15 17
Cervical height2 47 51 54 55
Bust 29 31 33 35
Waist 244 25g;— 27 29
Hip 32 34 36 38

 

lleasured seven inches below waistline.
2Height from socket bone to the floor.

5

Even though all of the pattern companies have accepted
these standard body measurements, the amount of ease allowed
in a pattern may vary from one company to another, or from
one year to the next within the same company. Lengths, except
cervical height for Juniors, have not been standardized.

A.new sizing system has been develOped from a research
study made by the Commodity Standards Division, the National
Bureau of Standards, and the Bureau of Human Nutrition and
Home Economics, in c00peration with clothing Technologists
of the Apparel industry.

The details of this new approach to sizing are presented
in a Proposed Commercial Standard on Body Measurements for
the Sizing of WOmen's Patterns and Apparel, TS-5200, which
was published in 1952. This preposal contains forty-eight
different and related measurements for each size.

Body measurements for all sizes are based on scientific
measurements of thousands of women and represent the pre-
dominant types for Misses, women, Half Sizes (shorter women)
and Juniors. The proposal covers not only women of average)
build, but other prevailing body types such as shorts,
regulars and talls in height, and those with slender,
average, or full hips in relation to their bust measurement.
It provides precise information on the size-to-size relation-
ships of one part of the body to the other on each body type

of every size.

6

This new sizing system has been presented to the trade
for consideration with the hope of providing the means for
fitting a greater number of girls and women with ready-to-
wear apparel or commercial patterns.

Correct pattern sizes for the girls fitted in this study
were determined by having the students try on basic style
garments made from.patterns in sizes twelve through twenty.
This permitted an examination of a pattern size for a figure
in all dimensions instead of in the limited measurements
(circumference of bust, waist, and hips) generally indicated
for each pattern size. ’

These basic garments were checked primarily for fit of
the bone structure at the base of the neck, over the shoulders,
and across the back at the scye line. If uncertain of the
size best for the figure in all areas, a larger or smaller
garment was tried on.for additional checking. When the
figure had a small bone structure in relation to circumference
measurements, a compromise was sometimes made between fitting
the bone structure and the circumferences. However, seldom
was the size selected too large at the base of neck even if
more ease was needed to.fit the bust, and none of the pattern
.sizes were chosen with excess fullness at the bustline in

order to fit larger than average hips.

D. Classification of Fitting Problems

Fitting problems found in this survey were caused by
individual deviations from the standard body measurements
used by pattern companies. Deviations were due to differences
in bone structure, posture, distribution of flesh or a
combination of these factors.

Individual figure variations were also considered as
unusual size to size relationships of one part of the body
to another. From this standpoint, fitting problems were
brought about by uncommon relationships of bone structure
to circumference, length to length, width to width, and
circumference to circumference. These unusual relation-
ships in body proportions made it impossible for commercial
patterns to fit every figure in all areas.

II. TECHNIQUE OF PATTERN FITTING

Prior to the fitting, each student penciled the length-
wise grain, seam lines. hem lines and guide lines unless she
had selected a printed pattern. Basic pattern pieces were
pinned together from the right side on and parallel to the
seam lines. Darts, tucks, pleats and heme were pinned at
right angles to the creased edges. The armscye seam was
not pinned until the blouse had been fitted.

At the fitting, black grosgrain ribbons were pinned
around the figure at the basic neckline, bustline, waistline,
and hip level. The paper pattern was pinned to these ribbons
at the center front and center back to prevent it from
shifting during the fitting.

Each pattern was carefully examined to make certain
that the vertical balance lines were perpendicular to the
floor and the horizontal balance lines parallel with the
floor. Vertical balance from side to side was checked at
the center front and center back. Balance from.front to
back was checked at the underarm seam of the blouse and the
side seam of the skirt. The scye line of the blouse and
the hip level of the skirt were used to check the horizontal
balance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

\H

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Areas checked in fitting

Figure I.

10

While analyzing the balance, each pattern was checked

for fit in all of the areas shown in Figure I on the

Opposite page and listed below.

A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.

K.
L.

M.
N.
O.
P.

R.

Circumference at basic neckline.

Circumference at bustline.

Circumference at waistline.

Circumference at hip level.

Circumference of sleeve at girth.
Circumference of sleeve at elbow.
Circumference of sleeve at wrist.

Width and slape of shoulder seam.

Width across chest.

Width across front and back scye line. (The scye
line extends from the lowest point of a normal
armhole across the front and back.)

Width across shoulder blades.

Scye length in front and back. (The scye length
is the distance between the scye line and the
neckline or shoulder seam.)

Length between scye line and waistline.

Length between hip level and waistline.

Length between hip level and hemline.

Length of sleeve from girth to armscye.

Length of sleeve from girth to elbow.

Length of sleeve from elbow to wrist.

11

In the front, patterns were fitted from the center toward
the bust. and from the bust toward the side seam. In the
back, patterns were checked from the center toward the
shoulder blade. and from the shoulder toward the side seam.
A pattern was considered to be a perfect fit when there was
adequate ease without wrinkles or bulges, and when it
flattered the figure by camouflaging any irregularities.

During the fitting, a complete record was kept of all
of the problems encountered for each student. This record
was used for reference while making alterations in the
pattern, and later, to evaluate the accuracy of the pattern
fitting when the basted garment was fitted.

After the patterns were fitted and necessary alterations
made. the garments were cut. m markings were transferred
to the fabric with white carbon. Seams were stay-stitched
with matching thread on the seam line to prevent the fabric
from stretching and to bring the marking through to the
right side. Hand basting was used to mark center fronts
and center backs when these pieces had been cut on a fold.
The basic pieces of the dress were then basted together by
hand. Waistline seams were pinned with the pins placed
Parallel to the seam. Sleeves were pinned into the armscye

by the instructor or investigator after checking the fit

01" the blouse.

12
One hour appointments were scheduled with each girl
to carefully check the fit of her basted dress in all areas.
If a dress did not fit perfectly, a record was kept of any
additional alteration required, and the dress was checked
again at a later fitting.

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III. GENERAL METHODS OF PATTERN ALTERATION

While the pattern was being fitted, excess length or
width (beyond the correct amount of ease for that particular
design) was pinned into an alteration dart. When the dart
extended to the Opposite edge of the pattern, the excess
from the alteration was automatically transferred to that
edge.1 When the alteration extended to the end of a dart.
the pattern was slashed through the original dart and the

excess from the alteration was transferred to this dart to

increase its size.2

When more length or width was needed, the exact position
and amount was marked on the pattern with pencil during the
fitting. After removing the pattern from the figure, it was
slashed on the position marked and Spread the amount needed.
Patterns were slashed and spread from one edge to another;3
from one edge to another through a dart increasing the size

01" the dart;4 or from one edge .to the end of a dart decreasing

the size of the dart.5

_

lFigure II: ApB, page 15.
2Figure II: C-D, page 13.
3Figure III: APB, page 14.
4Figure III: C-D, page 14.
5Figure III: EkF, page 14.

16

The method used in transferring an alteration dart
and the position for slashing the pattern depended upon
the style of the garment as well as the figure being fitted.

After alterations were made. the seam and dart edges
were straightened if they had become uneven by correcting
the pattern.

Some small adjustments in length and width were satis-
factorily made at the seam lines of the patterns. Length
changes made by this method included raising or lowering
the waistline seam, and lengthening or shortening the skirt.
Minor changes in scye length at the armscye end of the
shoulder seam were made for slightly square or slaping
shoulders. In most cases, however. sloping shoulders were
made less conSpicuous by the use of shoulder pads instead
of making alterations in the patterns.

Small adjustments in width made at the seam lines of
the pattern included changes at the armscye seam, French
dart seam, and underarm seam in the blouse or skirt.
Alterations were not made in this manner if they were large.
enough to cause distortion of the pattern shape.

Patterns were altered at the seam line only when the
.length or width actually needed to be changed at that
Zlocation. For example. a blouse was let out at the under-

arm.seam if the figure needed additional width at the side

17

of the body. However, if the figure required more width
over the bust, the pattern was slashed and spread over the
bust to provide ease where it was needed.

Only the corrections that were made within the pattern
by pinning out alteration darts or slashing and spreading .
were included in the diagrams and tabulations. Minor changes
that were made at the seam line of the pattern were omitted

from the final report of this investigation.

IV. ANALYSIS OF FITTING PROBLEMS

Each of the fifty-three girls in this study was fitted:
with a blouse pattern and a dress pattern. In.many instances,
the dress had a bolero or Jacket. Consequently, every student
was fitted two or three times in all areas of the bodice.
This provided a check on the validity of the alterations
made on the patterns.

Diagrams and tabulations of alterations were made from
the dress patterns unless the design of the dress made it
impossible to check the fit accurately in the bodice. When
the dress pattern could not be checked in all areas, the
alterations on the blouse were diagrammed and included in
the tabulations.

When a dress and Jacket were fitted for the same
individual, there was a duplication of alterations in the
pattern diagrams. However, alterations that occurred twice
on any figure were counted only once.

Nine of the fifty-three dress patterns fitted had
pleated, gathered, or full circular skirts. Therefore, the
fit could not be checked over the hips, thighs, or abdomen.
Tabulations of fitting problems involving fit over the hips,
thighs, or abdomen were consequently based on the forty-

four skirt patterns that were fitted in all areas.

19

Seven of the fifty-three dress or jacket patterns had
full length sleeves; nineteen had three-quarter length
sleeves; and twenty-seven had short sleeves or were sleeve-
less. Therefore, sleeve length from elbow to wrist was
checked for only seven figures, but sleeve length from
elbow to girth was checked for twenty-six figures. Sleeve
circumference at the girth was checked for all of the fifty-
three figures since every blouse had short sleeves.
Circumference of the sleeve below the elbow was checked
for twenty-six figures.

Paper patterns were not adapted to checking the pitch
of the sleeve or the exact cap height. For that reason,
the number of alterations made at the pattern.fitting was
not a true indication of all the adjustments made in this
area. It was necessary to allow one inch seam allowances
on the sleeve cap in order to make the needed changes at
the basted.fitting.

The fifty-three girls participating in this investi-
gation presented thirty-six different fitting problems.
Twenty-five of these problems occurred in the blouse area;
six were found in the sleeve; and five were discovered in
the skirt area. A complete discussion of each of these

fitting problems is given on the following pages.

20
Problem.l
A Bulge at the Front Armscye of the Pattern
Radiating from.the Bust Point

ggpgg, This fitting problem was due to a variation
in the distribution of flesh, and deviation in posture or
bone structure. The bust circumference of the figure was
large in relation to the bone structure, or the scye length
at the front armscye was shorter than average compared to
the back scye length.

Correction. The bulge at the front armscye was pinned
into an alteration dart that tapered to nothing at the bust

point. Excess from.this alteration was transferred in one

1 to a French

3

of the following ways: to the waistline dart,

2

dart seam, to the waistline and underarm darts,

4
5

to gathers
at the shoulder seam, or to the waistline dart and gathers
at the shoulder seam. This increased the amount of darting
for the bust and decreased the scye length of the pattern

at the front armscye. When alteration darts were trans-

ferred from.the armscye to larger waistline, shoulder, or

 

1Pattern 15, alteration A, page 121.
2Pattern 22, alteration A, page 143.
3Pattern 5, alteration B, page 90.
4Pattern 37, alteration A, page 178.
5Pattern 2, alteration A, page 83.

21
underarm darts, extra length and width were drawn from
other areas of the pattern and held at the bust point.

The relationship between bust circumference and bone
structure would have been impossible to measure. It was
more accurate to determine the correct size for the alter-
ation dart and the exact amount of additional darting
required for the bust by fitting the pattern to the
individual.

It was difficult to check the fit of the armscye area
in garments other than those having set-in sleeves, and
impossible to correct a bulge at the armscye when garments
had kimono sleeves. An alteration dart at the front armscye
was one of the most consistent alterations from one pattern

to another on the same person.

22
TABLE 3
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT A BULGE AT THE FRONT ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the armscye area)

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration dart 28
Transferred to the waistline dart 15
Transferred to a French dart seam 9
Transferred to waistline and underarm darts 2
Transferred to gathers at the shoulder seam l
Transferred to waistline dart and gathers
at the shoulder seam 1
Size of alteration darts at the front armscye
One-eighth inch 6
Three-sixteenths inch 3
One-fourth inch 12
Three-eighths inch 7

 

Problem 2
Tightness in the Pattern at the Bustline

gauge, A variation in the distribution of flesh was
responsible for this fitting problem. The bust circumference
of the figure was large in relation to the bone structure,

and required more darting than the pattern provided.

23

Correction. The bust point of the girl was marked on
the pattern with pencil, and the amount of additional ease
needed was indicated. After removing the pattern, it was
slashed through the waistline dart to the bust point: then
to the lower curve of the armscye,6 to the shoulder seam7
or to the lower curve of the armscye and a yoke edge.8 The
pattern was Spread the amount required at the bust point,
and lengthened at the center front by making the inner edge
of the waistline dart the same length as the outer edge.
Larger than average bust measurements needed additional
length as well as extra width to provide the necessary
amount of ease.

Tightness at the bustline often caused a bulge at the
front armscye similar to Problem 1. In order to determine
whether to make an alteration dart at the front armscye or
slash and Spread the pattern at the bust point, the balance
of the underarm seam was checked. If the pattern was
pulled up under the arm, the figure needed more length
and width over the bust without decreasing the length of
the front armscye, so the pattern was slashed and Spread.

Some figure variations required a combination of an alteration

6Pattern 45, alteration A, page 197.

7Pattern 2,,alteration B, page 83.

8Pattern 29, alteration B, page 159.

24
dart at the front armscye and Spreading the pattern at
the bust point.

The relationship of the bust circumference to the chest
width determined whether the pattern was slashed to the
armscye or to the shoulder seam. If the pattern was the
correct width through the chest, the slash was made to the
armscye. If the pattern was too narrow through the chest,
the slash was made to the shoulder seam. Gathers at the
front shoulder seam, or a front yoke, made it possible to
slash to these edges without interferring with the fit

through the chest area.

TABLE 4
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT TIGHTNESS AT THE BUSTLINE
(Fifty-three blouSes checked for fit in the bustline area)

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration 10
Slashed to lower curve of armscye 8
Slashed to shoulder seam 1
Slashed to lower curve of armscye and yoke edge 1
Amount of Spread at the bust point
One-fourth inch 7

Three-eighths inch 3

 

25

Problem 3.
Excess Ease in the Pattern at the Bustline

figure, The bust circumference Of the figure was small
in relation to the bone structure, and needed less darting
than the pattern provided. This was the Opposite of Problem 2.
Correction. Excess ease at the bustline was pinned into
a vertical alteration dart that was handled in one of the
following ways: extended through the waistline dart and

9

tapered to nothing at the shoulder seam, continued through

the waistline dart and tapered to nothing at the neckline,10
or extended through the shoulder seam and tapered to nothing
at the waistline then Spread through the lower Jacket edge.ll
If a commercial pattern had been selected for this type
of figure according to the bust measurement, it would have

been too small in all other areas of the body.

 

9Pattern 20, alteration B, page 137.

10Pattern 53, alteration A, page 215.
llPattern 42. alteration B, page 189.

 

Ii

'51

26
TABLE 5
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS EASE AT THE BUSTLINE
(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the bustline area)

 

 

Frequency of this alteration dart

3
Through waistline dart and tapered to shoulder 1
Through waistline dart and tapered to neckline 1
Through shoulder seam and tapered to waistline 1

Size of alteration darts at the bust point
One-eighth inch 2
One-fourth inch 1

 

Problem 4
Excess Ease in the Pattern Below the Bustline

figure, The length of the figure from the waistline to
the bustline was long in relation to the length from the
bustline to the shoulders. Thus, the individual had a
higher than average bust. This was due to a variation in
the distribution Of flesh or posture.

Correction. The bust point of the figure being fitted
was marked on the pattern with pencil. After removing the
pattern, it was slashed through the shoulder dart to the
point indicated. Pivoting at the bust point, the waistline

27
dart was partially transferred to more shoulder
darting.12

A bulge in the pattern below the bustline occurred

when a large size pattern was fitted to a youthful figure.
Large size patterns are designed to fit mature figures with
a low bustline. If more ease had been needed at the bust
point, the pattern would have been Spread as much as

necessary.

TABLE 6
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS EASE BELOW THE BUSTLINE
(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the bustline area)

.—

 

Number

 

Frequency of this alteration 1

Problem.5
Excess Ease in the Pattern Above the Bustline

ggggg, This figure variation had a lower than average
bustline, and was the Opposite of Problem 4. The length of
the figure from the waistline to the bustline was Short in
relation to the length from the bustline to the shoulders.

12Pattern8, alteration B, page 99.

28

Correction. Excess ease above the bustline was trans-
ferred in one of the following ways. When the underarm
dart was too high for the figure, a new dart line was marked
on the pattern in such a position that it would hold ease at
the bust. The pattern was Slashed along the line marking
the correct position for the underarm dart, and from the end
of the new dart to the end Of the Old dart. By closing the
original dart, a new dart was Opened where needed.13 The
shorter edge of the dart was made equal to the longer edge.
A lower than average bustline was more evident on patterns
with an underarm dart than on those with a waistline dart
or a combination of shoulder and waistline darts.

When the shoulder dart was too large for the figure,
it was partially transferred to a new underarm dart by
slashing the pattern from the underarm seam to the bust
point and pivoting the excess.14 Excess ease above the
bustline was removed from one pattern by extending an
alteration dart that was needed for narrow shoulders and
pivoting at the bust point to transfer the excess to the

waistline dart.15

 

13Pattern 27, alteration B, page 155.
l4Pattern 12, alteration G, page 112.
15Pattern 47, alteration B, page 202.

29

TABLE 7
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS EASE ABOVE THE BUSTLINE
(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the bustline area)

 

 

 

 

1 Nani:

Frequency of this alteration 7

underarm dart too high 5

Shoulder dart too large 1

Combined with alteration for narrow shoulders 1
Amount bust point was lowered

One inch 2

One and one-half inches ' 4

Two inches 1

Problem 6
Underarm Dart Holding Excess Length
in the Pattern at Side Of Bust

Caggg. The side front of the figure was short in
relation to the center front due to a variation in the
distribution of flesh. This was a youthful figure that
was relatively flat at the side of the bust.

Correction., After marking the bust point of the figure

on the pattern, the underarm dart was closed or partially

closed and transferred to: the original16 or new waistline

 

16Pattern lO, alteration A, page 106.

50

17 or a combination of the French

18

dart, the French dart seam,
dart seam and waistline dart.

Large underarm darts were unbecoming to youthful figures
because these figures did not need to have extra length held
over the side of the bust. In SOme instances, the best fit
was obtained by retaining part of the underarm dart and

transferring part of it to another position.

TABLE 8
BLOUSES ALTERED T0 CORRECT EXCESS LENGTH OVER SIDE OF BUST

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the bustline area)

 

 

Frequency Of this alteration 6
Transferred to waistline dart 4
Transferred to French dart seam l

Transferred tO French dart seam and waistline
dart l
Portion of underarm dart transferred
Entire dart 4
Part of dart 2

 

l7Pattern 19, alteration C, page 134.
18Pattern 6, alteration B, page 92.

31
Problem 7
Inadequate Length in the Pattern
along the Basic Neckline

Qgggg. A variation in the distribution.of flesh gave
this figure a broad base of neck. The length from the scye
line to the neck end of the shoulder seam was long in re-
lation to the length from the scye line to the armscye end
of the shoulder seam.

Qprrggrign,, While the pattern was being fitted, the
neckline and of the shoulder seam was let out until the
scye line was level.19 In order to make the base of neck
seem smaller and minimize the difference between the base
of neck and upper neck, the side of the neckline was kept
Slightly above the broadest neck measurement. Since there

is little variation in base of neck measurements within a

certain size, most of the patterns fit well in this area.

TABLE 9

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT ' INADEQUATE LENGTH
ALONG BASIC NECKLINE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the neckline area)

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration 5
Amount of let out at neckline end of shoulder seam
Three-eighths inch 3
One-half inch 2

19Pattern 4, alteration F, page 88.

52

Problem 8
Inadequate Width in the Pattern at the Front Neckline

Qggrg, This figure had a fuller than average throat
due to a variation in the distribution of flesh. The
circumference at the front base of neck was large in relation
to the bone structure.

Cgrrection. The position and amount of width needed
at the front neckline was marked on the pattern with pencil.
After removing the pattern, it was Slashed through the
waistline dart and the point marked then Spread the amount
needed at the neckline.20 This partially closed the waistline
dart.

TABLE 10
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT INADEQUATE WIDTH AT FRONT NECKLINE
(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the neckline area)

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration 2
Amount of Spread at front neckline
One-fourth inch 1
One-half inch 1

20Pattern l,alteration A, page 79.

53

Problem 9
Excess Scye Length in the Pattern at Center Front

gnnng, Poor posture or a variation in bone structure
produced a combination of round shoulders and flat chest.
This figure had a shorter than average front scye length
in relation to the back scye length.

Correction. Excess scye length at the center front
of the pattern was pinned into a horizontal alteration
dart between the shoulders and scye line tapering to nothing
at the armscye?l This alteration dart could have extended
through the armhole if the scye length of the pattern had

been too long for the figure in this area.

TABLE 11
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS SCYE LENGTH AT CENTER FRONT

(Fifty—three blouses checked for fit in scye length)

 

 

Frequency of this alteration 1
Size of alteration dart at center front

One-eighth inch 1

 

ZlPattern l, alteration H, page 81.

34
Problem 10
Inadequate Scye Length in the Pattern
at the Center Front

angg, This was the reversal of Problem 9. An over-
erect posture or variation in bone structure caused the
figure to have a longer than average front scye length in
relation to the back scye length.

Correction. The correct position for additional scye
length and the amount of length needed were marked on the
pattern. After removing the pattern, it was Slashed on the
above marking from the center front to the armscye and
Spread to increase the scye length.22 To straighten the

pattern, a new center front was established by drawing a

line from the waistline to the neckline.

TABLE 12

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT INADEQUATE SCYE LENGTH
-AT THE CENTER FRONT

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in scye length)

 

 

 

 

 

}* M
Number
Frequency of this alteration 1

Amount of Spread at center front

Three-sixteenths inch 1

 

22Pattern 29, alteration A, page 159.

35
Problem 11
Inadequate Scye Length in the Pattern
at the Center Back

Ogre, Poor posture or a variation in bone structure
brought about a combination of rounded shoulders and forward
head. This figure had a longer than average back scye length
in relation to the front scye length causing the neckline of
the pattern to be pulled down at the center back.

Correction. The most prominent shoulder bulge of the
figure was marked on the pattern. A measurement was taken
to determine the amount of back scye length needed to raise
the neckline to the correct position. The pattern was
Slashed horizontally from the center back across the

prominent shoulder blade: to the armscye,2:5

armscye,24 to a French dart seam, 25 or to a vertical Slash

through the

in the pattern.26 The pattern was spread to increase the
scye length the amount needed, and to keep the amount of
length added constant from the center back to the prominent
Shoulder.

25Pattern 50, alteration A, page 208.
24Pattern 26, alteration B, page 153.
25Pattern l4, alteration B, page 117.
26Pattern 9, alteration J, page 103.

36
Figures with rounded shoulders and forward head
usually required extra width across the back as well as
additional length.27 A rounded back brought the arms
forward and increased the distance between the back armscye
lines. This posture variation was fitted with plenty of

ease in order to make the rounded shoulders less conspicuous.

TABLE 13

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT INADEQUATE SCYE LENGTH
AT THE CENTER BACK

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in Scye length)

 

 

Frequency of this alteration 6
Slashed to the armscye 3
Slash continued through armscye l
Slashed to a French dart seam 1
Slashed to a vertical slash 1

Amount Of Spread at center back
One-eighth inch
One-fourth inch
Three-eighths inch

«st-omen

Required extra width as well as more scye length

__

27Problem 12, page 37.

37

Problem 12
Tightness in the Pattern over Shoulder Blades

,anng, The figure was wider than average across the
back scye line in relation to the width at the front scye
line. This variation in posture or bone structure required
more darting for the shoulders than the pattern provided.

Correction. While fitting the pattern, the position
of the prominent shoulder blade was marked and a record was
made Of the amount of additional width needed. The pattern
was slashed through the waistline or waistline dart and over
the marking for the rounded shoulder: through the shoulder

seam for a new dart or more ease,28 to the shoulder seam,29

30 to the neckline,31

or to a combination of several different places.32 At the

through the neckline for a new dart,

position of the prominent shoulder blade, the pattern was
Spread the amount needed. When the pattern was spread at
the shoulder seam for a new dart or ease, the amount of
Spread did not exceed three-eighths inch. If the pattern
was spread at the neckline for a new dart, the amount Of

Spread was limited to one-fourth inch.

 

28Pattern 32, alteration A, page 166.
29Pattern 1, alteration D, page 79.
30Pattern 52, alteration B, page 213.
31Pattern 40, alteration A, page 185.
32Pattern 4, alteration B, page 87.

38

On patterns having a waistline dart that was too large
to spread without causing a puff at the end Of the dart, or
if the waistline dart was not holding ease directly below
the prominent Shoulder blade, the pattern was slashed through
the waistline instead of through the dart. Where this slash
was made, a new waistline dart was introduced.

When the prominent shoulder was relatively high on the
back, part Of the waistline darting was transferred to more
darting or ease at the shoulder seam. The pattern was
slashed.from the shoulder seam over the prominent shoulder
blade to the end of the waistline dart. Keeping the ease
or darting at the shoulder seam within the three-eighths
inch.maximum, the pattern was Spread the amount needed for

the shoulder. This partially closed the waistline dart.

39

TABLE 14
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT TIGHTNESS OVER SHOULDER BLADES
(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the shoulder area)

 

Number

 

Frequency of this alteration l4
Slashed through shoulder seen 5
Slashed to shoulder seam 2
Slashed through neckline 2
Slashed to neckline 2
Slashed to several different places 3

Amount of Spread over shoulder blade
Three-sixteenths inch 2
One-fourth inch 5
Three-eighths inch 5
One-half inch 2

 

Problem 13
Horizontal Wrinkles in the Pattern
Below the Base of Neck in Front and Back
Cangg. This fitting problem was due to variations in
bone structure. One type of figure had square shoulders;
the other type had average shoulders but shorter than average
scye length. The square shouldered individual had a shorter

than average scye length at the center front and center back

 

E ah.‘
u .hlt T‘ \ A. w."
new MM :«W \

40
in relation to the scye length at the armscye. The figure
with average shoulders had a shorter than average scye
length that extended from the center front and center back
through the armscye.

Correction. The horizontal wrinkles in the front and
in the back were pinned into alteration darts between the
scye line and the shoulders. For the square shouldered
figure, these alteration darts started at the center front
and center back and tapered to nothing directly below the
point where the square shoulders began. In the front, the
excess from the alteration dart was transferred to the
armscye: in the back, the excess was transferred to the
waistline dart and to the neckline for a new dart.35 For
the figure with average shoulders, the alteration darts
started at the center front and center back and continued
through the armscye.34

It was important to distinguish between excess scye
length at the center front or center back of the pattern
and.inadequate scye length at the armscye. Both problems
Inade the scye line appear to sag at the center Of the body.
.HOwever, if the scye line had been made level by increasing

 

33Pattern21, alteration A, page 140.
34Pattern 48, alteration A, page 204.

8:2

Siz

41
the scye length at the armscye instead of decreasing the
scye length at the center front or center back, the entire

tOp of the garment would have drooped.

TABLE 15

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT HORIZONTAL WRINKLES
BELOW BASE OF NECK IN FRONT AND BACK

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the neckline area)

 

 

Number

Frequency of this alteration 2

Figure with square shoulders 1

Figure with short scye length 1
Size of alteration darts at center front

One-eighth inch 1

One-fourth inch 1
Size Of alteration darts at center back

One-fourth inch ' 2

 

Problem 14
Excess Length in the Pattern at the Center Front
between the Scye Line and the Waistline
Cansg. The bust circumference of this figure was large
11! relation to the bone structure. This variation in the
distribution of flesh required more darting for the bust

than the pattern provided.

42

Corregtion. Excess length at the center front Of the
pattern was pinned into a horizontal alteration dart tapering
to nothing at the bust point. This alteration dart was
transferred in one of the following ways: to the original
waistline dart,:55 to a new waistline dart,256 or to a French
dart seam?"7

The larger than average bust of this figure held extra
length over the bust and created a bulge at the center front.
{Eris problem was similar to a bulge at the front armscye of
the pattern. Both were due to inadequate darting for the
bust, and the correction.for each increased this darting.

TABLE 16

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS LENGTH AT CENTER FRONT
BETWEEN SCYE LINE AND WAISTLINE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit at the center front)

 

 

$ _._“—1 _
_—III_ _‘—-_— _v_

 

 

.11 Number

Frequency of this alteration dart 4
Transferred to the French dart seam 2
Transferred to the waistline dart l
Transferred to a new waistline dart l

SIZe of the alteration darts at center front
One-eighth inch 1
Three-Sixteenths inch 1
One-fourth inch 2

‘

35Pattern 12, alteration A, page 111.

36Pattern l8, alteration A, page 129.

37Pattern 33, alteration F, page 169.

43
Problem 15
Excess Length in the Pattern at the Center Back
- Between the Scye Line and the Waistline
Cnusn. A variation in posture or bone structure caused
this figure to lean back from the waist to the shoulders.
The center back was short between the scye line and waistline

in relation to the same area in front.

Corregtron. Excess length at the center back of the
pattern was pinned into a horizontal alteration dart. This
alteration dart tapered to nothing at: the side seam,38

59 or the front waistline dart.4O Generally,

'the center front,
'the more the figure leaned back.from the waist, the larger
the alteration dart needed to be, and the farther it extended

around the body toward the front.

58Pattern ll, alteration D, page 109.

59Pattern 18, alteration D, page 129.

40Pattern 6, alteration H, page 92.

44
TABLE 17

.BLOUSES ALTERED T0 CORRECT EXCESS LENGTH AT THE CENTER BACK
BETWEEN SCYE LINE AND WAISTLINE.

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit at the center back)

 

 

 

Frequency of this alteration dart l2
Tapered to side seam 6
Tapered to center front 5
Tapered to front waistline dart 1

Size of alteration darts at center back
Three-sixteenths inch 1
One-fourth inch 4
Three-eighths inch 2
One-half inch 3
Three-fourths inch 2

Problem 16
Inadequate Width in the Side Front of the Pattern
Near the Lower Armscye
Cnuse. The side front of the figure was wider than
average in relation to the center. This deviation was
brought about by a variation in the distribution of flesh

or bone structure.

 

L661

45

Correction. A line was drawn where more width was
needed in the bodice, from the lower armscye to the waist-
line. The pattern was slashed along this line and Spread
the necessary amount at the armscye tapering the Spread to
nothing at the waistline.41 When more width was needed in
the side front of a Jacket, the slashing and Spreading was
extended through the lower edge of the pattern.42 For a
figure that was fuller than average around the lower armscye
without requiring additional width through the side front,
the pattern was Slashed from the lower armscye to the bust
point on a French dart seam and spread to provide the needed
length at the armscye43 thereby reducing the amount of
darting along the French dart line.

 

41Pattern ll, alteration A, page 109.
42Pattern 33, alteration B, page 168.
43Pattern 19, alteration B, page 134.

 

CI? f!"
CAN-H.

46
TABLE 18

BLOUSES ALTERED T0 CORRECT INADEQUATE WIDTH IN SIDE FRONT
NEAR THE LOWER ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in Side front)

W

 

Number

Frequency Of this alteration 5

Slashed to the waistline 3

Slash extended through lower edge of Jacket 1

Slashed to bust point on French dart seam 1
Amount of Spread at lower armscye

Three-sixteenths inch 1

One-fourth inch 3

One-half inch 1

 

Problem 17
Excess Width in the Side Front of the Pattern
Near the Lower Armscye

anne. This was the opposite of Problem 16. A
variation in the distribution of flesh or bone structure
made the side front Of the figure narrower than average
.1n relation to the center front.

Correction. Excess width in the pattern near the
aJnecye was pinned into a vertical alteration dart that

started at the lower edge of a yoke and tapered to nothing

 

i» -‘
.AU

Siz.

47

44

at the shoulder seam, or started as an alteration dart

for the front armscye and tapered to nothing at the waist
through the waistline dart.45
The pattern was too broad for this figure at the lower
curve of the front armscye causing the pattern to fall over
the arm. This problem was difficult to correct when the
pattern was the right width for the figure through the

shoulders and bustline.

TABLE 19

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS WIDTH IN THE SIDE FRONT
NEAR THE LOWER ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the side front)

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration dart 2
Tapered to shoulder seam from.lower yoke edge 1

Tapered to waistline from alteration at armscye 1
Size Of alteration dart near lower armscye

One-eighth inch 1

Three-sixteenths inch 1

 

44Pattern 8, alteration A, page 99.
45Pattern 44, alteration B, page 194.

 

1'1

1..:

AU

‘IV

48
Problem 18
Inadequate Width in the Side Back of the Pattern
Near the Lower Armscye

an§§, The side back of this figure was wider than
average in relation to the center back due to a variation
in the distribution of flesh or bone structure.

Corrngtion. The position and amount of additional
width needed in the side back was marked on the pattern.
After removing the pattern, it was Slashed through the
above marking: from the lower curve of the back armscye

46 from the armscye through the lower edge

to the waistline,
of the Jacket,47 or from the waistline to the Shoulder seam
when the pattern could not be slashed to the armscye due

48 The pattern was Spread the

to the design of the sleeve.
amount required near the lower curve of the back armscye.

When the pattern was spread at the waistline, a new
dart was introduced to hold ease where it was needed and

to keep the waistline the correct size.

 

46Pattern 26, alteration D, page 153.

47Pattern 6, alteration G, page 93.
48Pattern 18, alteration C, page 129.

49
TABLE 20

BLOUSES ALTERED T0 CORRECT INADEQUATE WIDTH IN SIDE BACK
NEAR THE LOWER ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked.for fit in the side back)

 

 

 

"* ' NE:

Frequency of this alteration 6

Slashed from lower armscye to waistline 2

Slashed from armscye through lower Jacket edge 2

Slashed from waistline to shoulder seam 2
Amount of Spread near lower armscye

One-fourth inch 4

One-half inch 2

Problem 19
Excess Width in the Side Back of the Pattern
Near the Lower Armscye

grnnn. This was the reversal Of Problem 18. The side
back of the figure was narrower than average in relation to
the center back because of a variation in the distribution
of flesh or bone structure.

Correction. Excess width in the side back was pinned
into a vertical alteration dart: from the lower curve of the

46a

armscye tapering to nothing at the waistline, from the

463Pattern 2, alteration C, page 83.

50

47a near the

lower armscye continuing through the waistline,
lower curve of the armscye tapering to nothing at an upper
armscye alteration and extending through the lower edge of

48a

the blouse, near the armscye tapering to nothing at the

Shoulder seam and waistline by slashing and Springing the

pattern at the armscye to permit overlapping the excess,49

or from the shoulder seam continuing through the waistline.50
When this alteration dart extended through the waistline,
the amount removed was added by another alteration in the
back pattern.

Since the pattern was too broad for this figure at the
lower curve of the back armscye, it fell over the arm.
Although, figures of this type were narrow through the side
back, they needed the ease allowed over the shoulder blades.
Excess width in the side back of the pattern sometimes

51 This combi-

occurred with tightness over the shoulders.
nation required Spreading the pattern over the rounded

shoulders and decreasing the width near the armscye. The

 

47aPattern 43, alteration C, page 192.
483Pattern 50, alteration B, page 208.

49Pattern 44, alteration C, page 194.

50Pattern 40, alteration B, page 185.
51Prob1em 12, page 37.

51
total width of the pattern was correct for the figure, but

the ease was not held where it was needed.

TABLE 21

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS WIDTH IN SIDE BACK
NEAR LOWER ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the Side back)

 

 

 

Number
Frequency Of this alteration dart 5
From lower armscye tapering to waistline 1
From lower armscye extended through waistline 1
From.upper armscye through lower edge of blouse 1

From shoulder seam.to waistline; sprung at
armscye 1
From Shoulder seam extended through waistline 1

Size of alteration darts at or near armscye

 

One-eighth inch 3

Three-Sixteenths inch 1

One-fourth inch 1
Problem 20

A Bulge at the Upper Part of the Back Armscye
Radiating from a Prominent Shoulder Blade

Cansg. Poor posture or a variation in bone structure

gave this figure a high Shoulder blade that was prominent.

52
The scye length over the shoulder blade was longer than
average in relation to the scye length at the armscye.
Correcrion. The bulge at the upper part of the back
armscye was pinned into an alteration dart that tapered to
nothing at the prominent shoulder blade. Excess from this

alteration was transferred in one of the following ways:

52

to the French dart seam, to the Shoulder seam for ease

or a new dart,53 to a vertical Slash over the shoulder

blade,54 to the neckline for a new dart,55 or to a combi-

56 Each of these methods increased

nation of these places.
the amount Of darting for the shoulder blade.

The back armscye of the pattern was long in relation
to the armscye of the figure being fitted. When shoulder
pads were used, they partially relieved the problem. Over-
fitting was carefully avoided for it would have emphasized

the prominent shoulder blade.

52Pattern 36, alteration page 176.

C.

5:J'SPattern 22, alteration C, page 143.
54Pattern 31, alteration F, page 164.
55Pattern 20, alteration D, page 137.

56Pattern 5, alteration C, page 90.

53
TABLE 22

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT A BULGE AT THE UPPER PART
OF THE BACK ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked.for fit in the armscye area)

 

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration dart 18
Transferred to a French dart seam 7
Transferred to shoulder seam for ease or dart 5
Transferred to vertical slash 3
Transferred to neckline for a dart l
Transferred to combination of above 2
Size of the alteration darts
One-eighth inch 15
Three-sixteenths inch 1
One-fourth inch 2

 

Problem 21
A.Bulge at the Lower Curve of the Back Armscye
Radiating from the End of the Waistline Dart

Cansg. This was Similar to Problem 20. Each figure
had a prominent shoulder blade that was due to poor posture
or a variation in bone structure. The difference in these
two problems was in the position of the Shoulder blade. A
low prominent shoulder was responsible for the bulge at the

lower curve of the back armscye.

54
Correcrion. The bulge in the pattern at the lower
armscye was pinned into an alteration dart that tapered to
nothing at the end of the waistline dart. Excess from this
alteration was transferred to: the waistline dart,57 the

58 or to the waistline

waistline dart and a new neck dart,
dart and the shoulder seam for more ease.59 This increased
the amount of darting for the shoulder blade. When alteration
darts were transferred from the armscye to larger waistline,
shoulder or neckline darts, extra length and width were
drawn from other areas of the pattern and held at the
shoulder blade.

TABLE 23

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT A BULGE AT THE LOWER CURVE
OF THE BACK.ARMSCYE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the armscye area)

 

 

 

111 Number
Frequency of this alteration dart 7
Transferred to the waistline dart 4

Transferred to the waistline dart and new neck dart 2

Transferred to the waistline dart and shoulder seam 1
Size of alteration darts

One-eighth inch 3

One-fourth inch 4

57Pattern 38, alteration A, page 180.
58Pattern l8, alteration 1, page 131.
59Pattern 29, alteration D, page 159.

55
Problem 22
A Bulge in the Pattern at the End
of the Back Waistline Dart

anrg, A variation in bone structure or posture resulted
in this figure that was narrower than average across the back
at the scye line in relation to the front width. The bulge
in the pattern was due to over-darting for the shoulder blades.

.§Q££££§;229. Excess fullness at the end of the back
waistline dart was pinned into an alteration dart that was
handled in one of the following ways: tapered to nothing

50 or extended through the

61

at the lower curve of the armscye,
shoulder seam if the pattern was too wide in this area.
The pattern was slashed through the waistline dart to the
alteration dart. This permitted the waistline dart to
partially close and thus decreased the amount of darting
for the shoulders.

Over-darting for the shoulder blades was accompanied
by excess length at the center back. When the alteration
dart tapered to nothing at the armscye, the waistline of
the bodice was remarked from the center back to the inner
edge Of the dart to correspond with the length lapped out
of the outer edge of the dart. When the alteration dart
continued through the shoulder seam, the length of the

 

60Pattern 15, alteration D, page 121.
61Pattern ll, alteration F, page 109.

«HI :4 . -\ -h\
0 3... e 7a
b t 1“ " .

ufld «\U

 

56
bodice was corrected by a horizontal alteration dart from

the center back tapering to nothing at the side seam.

TABLE 24

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT A.BULGE AT THE END
OF THE BACK WAISTLINE DART

(Fifty-three blouses checked forfit in the back)

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration dart 2
Tapered to lower curve of armscye 1
Extended through shoulder seam 1
Size of alteration darts
Three-Sixteenths inch 1
One-fourth inch 1

, Problem.23
Excess Width in the Pattern through the Shoulders

anrg, The shoulders of this figure were narrower than
average in relation to the bust due to a variation in bone
structure.

Corrgction._ Excess width in the pattern at the front
shoulder seam was pinned into an alteration dart that:

tapered to the end of the waistline dart and was transferred

57

62

to that dart, tapered to the waistline and was transferred

to the lower edge of the Jacket,63 tapered to nothing at

the lower edge of a yoke,64 or continued through a low

neckline. 65

Excess width in the pattern at the back shoulder seam
was pinned into an alteration dart that: tapered to the
end of the waistline dart and was transferred to the dart,66
tapered to the scye line and was transferred to the waist-
line,67 or extended through the waistline dart.68

Shoulders that were narrower than average presented
a problem Of equalizing body prOportions. The Shoulders

were made to appear as broad as possible for current fashion

in order to support the ease needed for the bust.

 

62Pattern 42, alteration , page 189.

64Pattern 35, alteration

A

63Pattern 30, alteration C, page 161.

A, page 173.
C

65Pattern 11, alteration , page 109.

66Pattern 30, alteration C, page 161.

67Pattern 35, alteration A, page 173. The increased
waistline size was taken up by an alteration dart through
the waistline when the pattern was corrected to provide
more width over rounded Shoulders.

68Pattern ll, alteration C, page 109. This alteration
also corrected a bulge at the end of the back waistline
dart.

 

O A'.I
.

AILVUI

£37

512,9 0

on

P)

Shoftez

relatio

58
TABLE 25
BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS WIDTH THROUGH SHOULDERS

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the Shoulder area)

 

 

Frequency of alteration dart at front shoulder
Tapered to end of waistline dart
Tapered to waistline
Tapered to lower edge of yoke
Extended through low neckline

Frequency Of alteration dart at back shoulder
Tapered to end of waistline dart

Tapered to scye line

l-‘l-‘uP-O'OHI-‘NNOS

Extended through waistline dart

Size Of alteration darts at Shoulder seam

(fl

One-fourth inch
One-half inch 1

 

Problem 24
Excess Length in the Pattern Between the Bustline
and waistline in the Front and Back
Qaugg. A variation in bone structure made this figure
shorter than average from.the bustline to the waistline in

relation to other body lengths.

59
Correction. Excess length in the pattern was pinned
into an alteration tuck between the bustline and waistline.69
The seam lines and edges of darts were straightened by re-
ruling.

Small adjustments in length were made by-shortening the
pattern at the waistline seam, or by indenting the waistline
of the Jacket pattern a little higher on the seams. When
the excess length was one-half inch or more, it was not
removed at the waistline seam of the pattern because this
would have made an appreciable increase in the waistline
Size. Any excess length between the bustline and waistline

needed to be corrected before the fit could be accurately

checked in other areas.
TABLE 26

BLOUSES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS LENGTH BETWEEN BUSTLINE
- AND WAISTLINE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for.fit in the waistline area)

 

 

.—

 

Number
Frequency Of this alteration 6
Size of tucks between bustline and waistline
One-fourth inch 1
Three-eighths inch 3
Five-eighths inch 1
Seveneeighths inch 1

 

69Pattern 22, alteration B, page 143.

60
Problem 25
Inadequate Length in the Pattern between the Bustline
and Waistline in the Front and Back

anng, This was the Opposite of Problem 24. The figure
was longer than average from the bustline to the waistline
in relation to other body lengths due to a variation in bone
structure.

Correction. During the fitting, the amount of additional
length needed was marked on the pattern. After removing the
pattern, it was Slashed and Spread between the bustline and
waistline.70 The edges of darts and seam lines were
straightened by reruling.

Small increases in length were made by lengthening the
pattern at the waistline, or by indenting the waistline of
the jacket pattern a little lower on the seams. Large
adjustments were not made at the waistline since this would
have distorted the shape of the pattern. Inadequate length
between the bustline and waistline required correcting before

the pattern could be accurately fit in other areas.

 

7OPattern 36, alteration B, page 176.

61
TABLE 27

BLOUSES ALTERED T0 CORRECT INADEQUATE LENGTH
BETWEEN BUSTLINE AND WAISTLINE

(Fifty-three blouses checked for fit in the waistline area)

 

' —_—— w
—“

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration 3
Amount of Spread between bustline and waistline
One inch 2

One and one-half inches 1

 

Problem 26
Excess Cap Height on the Front of Sleeve Pattern

anng, An alteration dart had been used to remove a
bulge at the front armscye.71 Consequently, the same amount
needed to be removed from the front sleeve cap so that the
sleeve would fit smoothly into the armscye.

This fitting problem was due to a variation in the
distribution of flesh, and deviation in posture or bone
structure. The bust circumference Of the figure was large
in relation to the bone structure, or the scye length at
the front armscye was shorter than average compared to the

back scye length.

 

71Problem 1, page 20.

rt.

3...

 

\

II! T

m. .1; .5. MI W
’C.

Em]

62
Correction. The excess cap height on the front of the
sleeve pattern was pinned into a horizontal alteration dart
tapering to nothing at the back Sleeve cap.72 The size of
. this alteration dart was determined by the amount removed

in the alteration at the front armscye.

TABLE 28
SLEEVES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS FRONT CAP HEIGHT
(Fifty-three sleeves checked for fit in cap height)

‘

Number

Frequency of this alteration dart 25*

Size of alteration darts
One-eighth inch
Three-sixteenths inch

One-fourth inch

«4 t: (n .e

Three-eighths inch

 

*Three of the twenty-eight dress patterns requiring an
alteration dart at the front armscye were Sleeveless.
Therefore, only twenty-five corresponding alterations
were made to reduce front cap height.

Problem 27
Excess Cap Height on the Back of Sleeve Pattern

Cause. An alteration dart had been made at the back

armscye to correct a bulge.73 In order to have a Sleeve

72Pattern 27, alteration C, page 155.

73Problem 20, page 51, and problem 21, page 53.

 

that wc

this f:
length
relatio
C:
sleeve
taperin
had excl
if. the ;
CCCUI‘I‘e:

0f the 1

74E
7::

63
that would fit into the armscye smoothly, the same amount
was removed from the back sleeve cap.

Poor posture or a variation in bone structure caused
this figure to have a prominent shoulder blade. The scye
length over the shoulder blade was longer than average in
relation to the scye length at the armscye.

Cgrrection. The excess cap height on the back Of the
Sleeve pattern was pinned into a horizontal alteration dart
tapering to nothing at the front Sleeve cap.74 Some sleeves
had excess cap height in both front and back.due to alterations
in the front and back armscye of the blouse. When this
occurred, the alteration dart was continued through the cap

of the sleeve.7

74Pattern l8, alteration K, page 132.
75Pattern l4, alterations D and E, page 118.

 

Freq

Size

N
l

‘Touz
alte

he;
Were

83‘

EEASu

35‘ 9
qt

TABLE 29
SLEEVES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS BACK CAP HEIGHT
(Fifty-three sleeves checked for fit in cap height)

 

 

 

Number
Frequency Of this alteration dart 21*

Due to removal of bulge at upper back armscye 16
Due to removal of bulge at lower back armscye 5

Size of alteration darts

One-eighth inch 16
Three-Sixteenths inch 1
One-fourth inch 4

 

*Four Of the twenty-five dress patterns requiring an
alteration dart at the back armscye were Sleeveless.
Therefore, only twenty-one correSponding alterations
were made to reduce back cap height.

Problem 28
Excess Sleeve Length between Elbow and Girth
annn, A variation in bone structure gave this figure
a shorter than average upper arm in relation to other body
measurements.
Corregtion. The excess sleeve length between the elbow

and girth was pinned into a horizontal alteration tuck.76

he

76Pattern 18, alteration L, page 132.

 

(Tie

Free

Size

PGLa

bong

65

TABLE 30

SLEEVES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS LENGTH
BETWEEN ELBOW AND GIRTH

(Twenty-six sleeves checked for fit between elbow and girth)

 

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration 2
Size of the tucks
Three-eighths inch 1
Three-fourths inch 1

 

Problem 29
Inadequate Length in the Sleeve Pattern

an_§. This figure had a longer than average arm in
relation to other body measurements due to a variation in
bone structure.

Correction. To determine where the Sleeve was inadequate
in length, the position of the elbow dart or ease was checked
to find if it coincided with the elbow of the figure. If
the elbow darting in the Sleeve pattern was in the correct
position for the elbow, the pattern was Slashed and Spread
the needed amount between the elbow and wrist?"7 When the
elbow darting was above the elbow of the figure, the pattern

'was slashed and Spread between the elbow and girth.78

¥

77Pattern l4, alteration F, page 118.

78Pattern 25, alteration A, page 151.

 

Frequ
C
L.
c
in
,‘IA '1
navun
n
U

Pinnel
Sleevl
SlQEVc

org:

Q)

66
TABLE 31
SLEEVES ALTERED TO CORRECT INADEQUATE LENGTH

(Twenty-Six Sleeves checked for length)

 

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration 2
Slashed between elbow and wrist l
Slashed between elbow and girth 1
Amount Of Spread
One-half inch 1
One inch 1

 

Problem 30
Excess Width in Sleeve above Elbow

anng. A variation in the distribution of flesh caused
the upper arm of this figure to have a smaller than average
circumference in relation to bone structure.

Correction. Excess width in the sleeve pattern was
pinned into an alteration dart that extended through the
sleeve cap and tapered to nothing at the wrist of a long

79

Sleeve, or continued through the cap and the lower edge

of a short sleeve.80

 

79Pattern 7, alteration H, page 96.
80Pattern 15, alteration H, page 122.

nun. .

 

H H
5M4

67
TABLE 32
SLEEVES ALTERED TO CORRECT EXCESS WIDTH ABOVE ELBOW

(Fifty-three sleeves checked for width above elbow)

 

 

Frequency of this alteration dart 2
Through Sleeve cap and tapered to wrist 1
Through sleeve cap and lower edge of short

sleeve 1

Size df alteration darts at sleeve cap
Three-sixteenths inch 1
One-fourth inch 1

 

Problem 31
Inadequate Width in Sleeve

angg, The arm circumference Of this figure was larger
than average in relation to bone structure due to a variation
in the distribution of flesh.

Correction. The sleeve pattern was Slashed on the
quarter division lines in front and back, and Spread to
provide the additional width needed.81 In the upper sleeve,
the amount of spread was kept at a minimum to prevent having

more than one and one-half inches of ease in the sleeve cap.

 

81Pattern 33, alteration I, page 169.

 

 

(P-‘N

out).

and WE

Frequer
haunt

n:

h‘.

68
TABLE 33
SLEEVES ALTERED TO CORRECT INADEQUATE WIDTH

(Fifty-three sleeves checked for width above the elbow,
and twenty-six sleeves checked for width below the elbow)

 

 

Frequency of this alteration 1
Amount of Spread to increase width
Three-eighths inch at armscye: seveneeighths
inch at wrist l

 

Problem,32
A Skirt Pattern Standing Out at the Center Front
and the Side Seam Swinging Forward

gnngn, This fitting problem was due to the figure
leaning back from the hips. The length from the hip level
to the waistline was shorter than average at the center back
in relation to the center front. Because Of this variation
in posture or bone structure, there was excess length in
the Skirt pattern between the hip level and waistline in
the center back.

Correction. To make the center front and side seam
hang perpendicular to the floor, a horizontal alteration

dart was pinned in the pattern to remove the excess length

between the hip level and waistline at the center back.

69
This alteration dart was handled in one of the following
ways: tapered to nothing at the Side seam,82 tapered to
nothing four inches from the center back and transferred

to a new waistline dart,83 or transferred to the original

waistline dart.84

Small adjustments for this fitting problem were some-
times made by lowering the waistline seam at the center
back of the skirt. However, large adjustments could not
be satisfactorily made by this method because of increasing

the waistline size.

TABLE 34
SKIRTS ALTERED T0 CORRECT SIDE SEAMS THAT SWING’FORWARD
(Fifty-three Skirts checked for hang of the side seam)

 

 

Frequency of this alteration dart l3
Tapered to side seam 10

Transferred to new waistline dart

Transferred to original waistline dart 1
Size of alteration darts at center back '

One-eighth inch 3

One-fourth inch 3

Three-eighths inch 3

One-half inch 4

 

8zPattern l4, alteration I, page 119.

8a’Pattern 52, alteration D, page 213.
84Pattern 46, alteration C, page zoo.

70

Problem 35
A.Skirt Pattern Swinging Outward at the Side Seam

gauge, A.pronounced high curve at the side hip caused
this figure to have a greater than average length from the
hip level to the waistline at the side in relation to the
center front and center back. The prominent curve was the
result of a variation in the distribution of flesh or bone
structure.

Correction. Between the hip level and waistline at
the center front and center back, horizontal alteration
darts were pinned into the pattern to make the side seam
hang perpendicular to the floor. These alteration darts
were managed in one of the following ways: tapered to
nothing at the side seam,85 transferred to a spread at the

86 transferred to new waistline darts above the

87

side seam,

or transferred partially to a spread at the
88

pelvic bone,
side seam and partially to the waistline dart.
The same result could have been accomplished by slashing
the pattern from the side seam to the center front and center
back, then spreading over the pronounced side hip until the

seam hung perpendicular to the floor.

 

85Pattern 22, alteration D, page 144.
86Pattern 16, alteration A, page 125.
87Pattern 17, alteration A, page 127.
88Pattern 21, alteration F, page 141.

71
TABLE 35
SKIRTS ALTERED T0 CORRECT OUTWARD SWING AT SIDE SEAM
(Fifty-three skirts checked for hang of the side seam)

W

 

Number
Frequency of this alteration dart 13
Tapered to side seam 7
Transferred to spread at side seam 4
Transferred to new waistline darts l
Transferred to spread at side seam and to
waistline dart 1
Size of alteration darts at center front
One-eighth inch 1
One-fourth inch 4
Three-eighths inch 7
One-half inch 1
Size of alteration darts at center back*
One-fourth inch 3
Three-eighths inch 3
One-half inch 2

 

iFive patterns needed an alteration dart at the center
front but not at the center back due to the figure
having a pronounced curve Just in front of the side
hip and a relatively flat back hip.

72

Problem 54
Front of Skirt Pattern Tight Over Thighs

gaggg, A.variation in the distribution of flesh made
the width of this figure larger than average over the thighs
in relation to the width at the waistline.

Correction. The pattern was slashed from the hem to
the waistline over the fullest part of the thighs and Spread
the amount needed. This spread in the pattern was: continued

through the waistline dart to increase the size of the dart,89

90 or continued through

91

tapered to nothing at the waistline,
the waistline where a new dart was introduced.
On designs having two waistline darts in the skirt front,
the pattern was slashed and Spread through each dart. The
amount of spread was usually greater at the hemline than over
the thighs in order to prevent the waistline dart or darts

from becoming too large.

89Pattern 46, alteration B, page 200.

90Pattern 13, alteration D, page 115.
91Pattern 9, alteration K, page 104.

73
TABLE 36
SKIRTS ALTERED T0 CORRECT TIGHTNESS OVER THIGHS
(Forty-four skirts checked for fit in thigh area)

 

 

 

 

W: 1“.“
Number
Frequency of this alteration lO
Slashed from hem through waistline dart 6

Slashed from hem to waistline
Slashed from hem through waistline for new dart 1
Amount of Spread over thighs
One-fourth inch
Three-eighths inch
One-half inch
Five-eighths inch
Three-fourths inch

HNI—‘NNN

One inch

 

Problem 35
Skirt Pattern Cupping Under the Abdomen

gaggg, A.variation in the distribution of flesh gave
this figure a prominent abdomen. The width of the figure
across the abdomen was larger than average in relation to
the width at the waistline and required more flare in the
skirt front.

74

Correction. When more flare was needed in the skirt
front, the pattern was slashed from the hem through the
waistline dart (or darts) and pivoted at the end of the

dart to transfer part of the darting to the hem.92

TABLE 57
SKIRTS ALTERED T0 CORRECT CUPPING UNDER ABDOMEN
(Forty-four skirts checked for fit in abdomen area)

 

I :-

Number

 

Frequency of alteration to increase flare in
skirt front 5

Amount of Spread at hem to increase flare

 

One-half inch 1

Three-fourths inch 1

One inch 1
Problem 56

Skirt Pattern Cupping Under Hips
Qgggg. The circumference of the hips was larger than
average in relation to the circumference of the waistline
due to a deviation in the distribution of flesh. One
variation of this figure problem needed more flare below
the hip level; another variation actually required more

width at the hip level.

 

92Pattern 24, alteration A, page 149.

75

Correction. When more flare was needed below the hip
level, the pattern was slashed from the hem through the
waistline dart and pivoted at the end of the dart to transfer
part of the darting to flare at the hem.93

If more width was required at the hip level, the pattern
was slashed from the hem through the waistline dart (or darts)
and Spread the amount needed.94 This increased the size of
the waistline dart. When the hem sweep could be increased
and retain the desired silhouette, the pattern was Spread
a greater amount at the hemline than at the hip level in

order to prevent the waistline dart from becoming too large.

 

93Pattern l, alteration G, page 80.

94Pattern 18, alteration G, page 130.

76
TABLE 38
SKIRTS ALTERED TO CORRECT CUPPING UNDER THE HIPS
(Forty-four skirts checked for fit in the hip area)

W
Number

Frequency of alteration to increase flare below hips 4

Amount of Spread at hem to increase flare

One inch 2
One and one-fourth inches 2
Frequency of alteration to increase width at hips 8

Amount of spread at hip level
One-fourth inch
Three-eighths inch
One-half inch
Three-fourths inch
One inch

r4 +4 .e F‘ ea

 

 

“LL__—‘~' ‘__

V. PRESENTATION OF DATA

This chapter includes a tracing of the design used
by each student, a list of her figure variations, and
diagrams of quarter size patterns showing the alterations
required to correct her fitting problems.

Since each girl had a different combination of figure
variations, it seemed desirable to present detailed diagrams
of the changes made in all of the patterns. In order to
avoid excessive duplication, alterations to reduce the cap
height on the front or back of the sleeve pattern were not
included unless other corrections were needed on the sleeve.
However, it Should be remembered that the cap height was
reduced a corresponding amount when alteration darts were
required at the front or back armscye of the pattern.

Solid lines were used in the diagrams to represent
the original pattern, and dotted lines were used to show
the shape of the revised pattern. Alteration darts were
shaded. The investigator attempted to draw all alterations
to scale, however, it was necessary to slightly exaggerate

small changes in order to make them legible.

 

 

   

 

 

Pattern 1. Dress and Jacket

The girl wno useo the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

 

Fuller than aVerage throat: Prorlem :

Large bust circumference or snort scye length at
front tilt-(Tye: PI'OL‘lfi-ZH. l.

hounded Shoulders and head held forward: Problem ll.

Wider than average back across shoulue*s: Problem 1?.
a

Wide side back in relation to center back: Problem 8.

Flat cues : Problem 9.

High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 20.

High, pronounced curve at side hip: Problem 53.
Tanageliip cireurdrumnuxaz Problem 36x

.-

BOQZLCC FI‘Oht

Problem 8‘
Pattern s‘nread l/E—E

'k'v'biStl i116

Pro Llem l

 

Pattern l

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Inadequate width at the front

dart.

Bulge at front errs cye.

kite 4'.

\‘ ‘rq .
ILéiCr-ukl

ation

01' loo} inch trcinsierred to the waistline cart.

PI‘Oblem l3

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P8 t t ern

“‘Cblem l

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iii, tin.

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ad l/4 inch tapering to armscye.

Tightness over the shoulder L

V ';’/1‘ :.,v, -‘ _,. :-,.
rca d o/ih ihcn increasinb

the waistlire dart.

problem
Pat ”t e;

“Pd-15 t1 ihe.

f1 :

he 81

Inadequate width in the side
, greed l 2 inch near lowrr
Lm“ t .introduced where pattern was Spread at the

talrncr C; re

lade
ze of

LLC1.0
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W,
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118.

inch decreasing the size of the

dart

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‘attern l

prfiyblenlgz; Skirt iug outward at side seam.
altxaration dart of o l

ieizred to Opposite e

Iiwokglam 5C: Skirt cupping under hips due to in-
aoetiuate flare. Part of the waistline dart
trailsikuied to the hem.

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; Side Front I I Side Back ,I
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Pattern l

EL .Piwnhlem 9: Excess scye length at the center front.
{altzeration dart of l/B inch t-nnsferred to the
ogsiiosite edge.
cratiun

T‘NC' 51.1 t
r‘rench

1- fircsblem l: Bulge at front armscye.
da11"ts of C/lC inch each transferred to the
daist seam.

J- Fufcd;lem 20: Bulge at upper part of back armscye
Ifadietin; from a prominent shoulder blade.
$9;teeration dart of 1/8 inch transferred to the
IVPGHJCh dart seam.

 

 

 

Pattern 2. Blouse

The girl who used the above pattern had the
following figure verie,icns:

Large Lust circumference and short scye length at
tne front armscye: Problems 1 an 2.

Narrow side back: Problem 19.

Figure leaning back from the waist: Problem l5.

 

 

 

 

Blouse Front

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

—---——-._I P--- L'---‘
L

 

 

 

 

Pattern 2

Problem 1: bulge at front armscye. Alteration dart
of 1/4 inch transferred to shoulder gathers and
waistline dart.

Problem 2: Tightness at bustline. Pattern spread
1/4 inch at the bust point.

Problem 19: Excess width in the side back. Alteration
dart of 1/4 inch at the armscye tapered to the waistline
and transferred to a Spread at the lower edge of blouse.

erblem lb: Excess length at the center back. Alter-
ut-Wn dart of 3/8 inch tapered to the center front.

_ _ -Ah -_‘_<.-...‘.I

 

Pattern i.

 

 

The girl who used the above tattern nad the following

l.' 'I I I-P“ lr'- -
I 3!:‘JA!/ "4'01 Agni-Jug:

st circumference or short as
front trnscye: Problem 1.

3e lenrtn at the

Lnort Laisted: Problem 24.

I

Firure leaning back irom the hips: Problem 32.

l . . . O \ I ‘ , va '
Larne hlp CirCAnieience.

‘v ‘ 2 "
Problem so.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A. Problem 1:

the front amnscye.
Itheration dart of
l/4 inch transferred
to waistline darts.

”irt Back

CD
~_—->

 

 

Problem 24: Excess
length between bust-
line and waistline. i
Alteration dart of ’
3/63 inch in the
front and back.

1
i
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Bulge at g
l
!

-—. _._ rw

---. _'-..- v“...— -—-—-—O

-- —-

 

 

Pattern 3
Problem 32: Side seam of skirt swinging forward.

Alteration dart of 1/4 inch at center back trans-
ferred to opposite edge.

Problem :56: Skirt cupping under the hips due to
inadequate width at the hip level.

Pattern Spread
2 inch at the hip level. Size of waistline darts
increased.

("I

 

86

 

 

} / / /,

 

Pattern 4. Dress and Bolero

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

Rounded shoulders and forward head: Problem ll.
Wide back at the shoulder blade: Problem 12.

Large bust circumference and short scye length
at the front armscye: Problems 1 and a.

Broad base of neck: Problem 7.

Heavy thighs: Problem 34.

 

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A. Ilroblem ll: Inadequate
sczye length at center
ha;ck. Pattern Spread
l/B llICl‘I at center
‘bEick, 3/8 inch at
‘p170ndnent shoulder,
arnj tapered to the
armscye.

L
Pattern 4
B. Prcflslem l2: Tightness over the
Sprmzad a total of 1/2 inch over
llama dart increased in size. A
wherwe the pattern was Spread at
C.

Problenxfid:

inch. over heavy high.

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Skirt tight over thigh.
Waistline tuck

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shoulder blade. Pattern
shoulder blade. waist-
new dart introduced

the waistline.

Pattern Spread l/S
increased in size.

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Pattern 4

PM?oblem l: Bulge at the front armscye. alteration dart
CI‘ l/4 inch transferred to the waistline dart.

.Prwoblem 2: Tightness at the bustline. Pattern Spread
l/Cl incn at the bust point.

Frwabiem 7: Inadequate length along he basic neckline.
Ntaclalihe end of the shoulder seam let out 3/5 inch in
the: front and back.

PrCflJleh 12: Tightness over the shoulder blade. Pattern
SP1“ Cd 1/4 inch over the prominent shoulder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern &. Dress

The girl who used the above pattern had the followjnug
figure variations:

Fuller than average throat: Problem 8.

Large Lust circumference or short scye length at tile
front armscye: Problem l.

High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 80.

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L~e~m__lJ

 

Pattern 5

Problem 8: Inadequate width at the front neckline.
Pattern Spread l/d inch by t*ansferring part of the
waistline oart to the neckline.

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye radiating from
the bust point. Alteration dart of l/4 inch trans-
ferred to the waistline and underarm darts.

Problem 20: Bulge at upper part or back armscye
radiating from a prominent shoulder blade. Alteration
dart of l/S inch transferred to a new neck cart and
shoulder ease.

_. t ”X“!

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Pattern 6. Dress
The girl who used the above

figure variations:

circumference or

Problem

~. 1- +-
L&I(e n‘bb

front armscye:

uelatively flat at the side

A

" .~ . '1‘. 1. ‘ \A\~
PlLUlC leaninr LaCn Iron the

iiiéh, brominent

Wide side back: Problem 18.

shoulder bla

a: A //
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v 5
L/
L

attern had the followiJHS

c 118

short s

1.

ye length at t

of the bust: Pr blem <3.

waist: Problem lb.

1.. V‘. 1. , ..
oe. rrOUch 2..

 

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Bodice
, \Side
\ “Front

a. Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. Al
dart Cf l/G inch

5. Problem 6: Under
side of the fibure.
dart and French

t. Problem l3: Excess length at center back Letneen
scye line and no

 

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Pattern G

eration

+
k4
transferred to the French dart sear.

arm dart holding excess length at the

Transferred to the waistline

dart seas.

I-I
one

istline. alteration dart of l/4 inch

tapered to the side seau.

D. Problem 23: Bulge

Alteration dart

French uart sean.

at the upper hart of back armscye.
3/8 inch tacered to 1/4 inch at the

 

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a Side "xxx.
Front

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.-

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E. Problem

F. Problem 20

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Pattern 6

l: Bulge at the front armscye.
dart of l/: inch transferred to the French dart

flmwnmflzznrH

 

alteration

seam.

bulge at the upper back armscye. Alteration

dart of 1/8 inch transferred to the French dart seam.

G. Problem 18: Inadequate width in the side back. Pattern
Spread l/4 incn at armscye and continued through the lower

edge of Jachet.

New dart introduced at waistline.

H. Problem 15: Excess length at the center back. Alteration
dart of l/4 inch transferred to the front waistline cart.

 

 

‘-_ _-_

 

Pattern 7. Suit

The girl wnc used the above pattern had the followilué
figure variations:

.Large bust circumference or short scye length at tile
front armscye: Probler 1.

Low bust: Problem 5.

high, prominent shoulder blade: ProLlem 20.
Short usher arr: froblen Pf-

Small arm circumference; Problem 50.
Prominent abdomen: Problem 5:.

r
1 . , . , . ‘ _ . _ . J
rigure leaning Lack Iron waist and hlpS. PrOblenu5 :L

0\ '20
(Solid U'La o

 

 

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Pattern 7

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. alte:ation dart
of 3/8 inch transferred to the waistline darts.

Problem 5: Excess ease above the bustline. Underarm
dart lowered 1 inch.

Problem 20: Bulge at upper back armscye. Alteration
dart of l/a inch transferred to the French dart seam”

Problem lb: Excess length at the center back. Alteration
dart of 1/4 inch transferred to the side seam. (Center
back section shown on the next page.)

 

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center 5 a: Sleeve 1
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Pattern 7

E. Problem 26: Excess can height on front of sleeve. Alter-
zrtion dart tdei/S inch.

F. Problem 27: Excess can height h back of sleeve. Alter-
ation dart of 1/5 inch.

G. Problem 86: Excess sleeve length between elbow and girth.
Alteration cart of b/d inch.

A. Problem 60: Excess sleeve width above elbow. alteration
dart of 6/16 inch at front cap tapered to the wrist.

 

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.— .-.

I; I
Skirt Front
‘ l
E

-_,+-ll Tl Ll-» in

'x c. .

P1.C’ble A1 \JU.

Problem 52:

Hr—

,1.

.o
-5 1"-

d

.v -

d FIVZ/Z/l/[ll/erf’l-

 

 

Pattern 7

ation dart of 5/8 incn at center back
back eno transferred to the waistline

 

 

 

bkirt CUpping under abdomen.
partly transferred to the new for more flare.

Side seam of skirt swinging forwerd.

for a

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Waistline darts

Alter-
tapered to side
nfiui' Gal.t o

 

 

(I)

 

 

 

Pattern 8. Dress

The girl who used the above pattern had the follovtine
figure variations:

Narrow side front: Problem 17.
High bust: Problem 4.
Figure leaning back from he waist: Problem 15.

Pronounced, high curve at the side hip: Problem 153°

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bodice Front 1 anice Back
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Problem 17: Bxc
Alteration dart
ferred to the sh

Problem 4: Exce
darting partly t
edge.

Problem 5: Exc
scye line and ""
tayered to cente

Pattern a

ess width in the side front near armscye.
of B/lC inch at lower yoke ed5e trans-
oulder seam.

SS ease below the bustline. Waistline
ranSIerred to n01e gathers below yoke

ess len5th at the center back between
aistline. Alteration dart of l/E inch
1 £1011t.

 

“'."‘)K' ' _" .

 

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a”---‘a’e—

Problem 33:

Alteration darts of l/4 inch at the center

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Pattern 8

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Shirt
Center
ihicli

---—.—.-—-— F

outward at the side seam.

center back tapered to the side seam.

front and

 

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PattqurES. Suit

The 5irl who used the above pattern had the follouuiné

figure variations:

Broad base of neck: Problem 7.
Prominent abdomen: Problem "L.

Large bust circumference and short scye length at ‘the
front armscye: Problems 1 and 2.

Relatively flat at the side of bust: Problem C.
Wide side front: Problem 16.

Wide been at shoulder blade: Problem 12.

High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 2‘.
Round shoulders and forward head: Problem ll.
Heavy thighs: Problem 54.

Large hip circumference: Problem 36.

Figure leanin5 back from the hips: Problem 32.

ha.“ Am---

123'..- M‘J‘N ‘- a

— vv—s mm

 

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Pattern 9
Problem 7: Explained in alteration G on nex page.
Problem at: (Variation) Inadequate width over abdomen.
Pattern Spread total of 3/8 inch.
Problem 1: Bulre at front armscye. Alteration dart of
3/8 inch traisferred to a waistline dart.
Problem 2: Tightness at the bustline. Pattern spread
1/4 inch at the bust point.
Problem 6: Underarm dart holding excess leng h at side
of figure. T'ansferred to a waistline dart.
Problem 16: Inadequate width in side front. Pattern Spread
1/4 inch at lower ed5e and tapered to shoulder seam.

 

d.

 

 

 

1&3

 

 

 

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Pattern 9

Protlem 7: Inadequate length along basic neckline.
Neck end of shoulder seem let out 3/8 inch.

Problem 2: Tightness over shoulder blade. Pattern
Spread 1/4 inch. New neck dart end rore shoulder

‘ C I"
54

Problem 2C: Eulge et unper tech armscye. Alterntim
dart of l/4 inch transferred to ease telow yoke edge.

Problem ll: Inadequate scye length at the center beck.
Pattern serend 1/8 inch teyering to vertical slash.

 

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Problem 54: Skirt tight over thigh.
inch over heavy thigh. New unistline

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Pat It ern Si)J.L.LA(1 S/S
dart introduced.

Problem 36: Skirt cunning under hips

dne to inndequete
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hips. Size or

the waistline darts inorecsed.
Problem 32: Side seem
ation dart of 1/4 inch
side seam.

of skirt swinging forwerd. Alter-
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Protlem 22: Bulge at the end 3r buck waistlihe dart.
alteration dart 0‘ l/4 inch extended thruagh shoulder

Sean.

 

7

bolero

{A

Pattern ll. Dress coo

The girl who used the abov~ gattern had the following
figure variations:

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Laxgy; ousm, c1.cnn11ermuloe elk. smelt. sc:t; lclrgth (A: tdle

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front armscye: Problems 1, 2, and 14.
High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 20.
Nioe been at the shoulder blade: Problem 1?.
Figure loaning bu R from tue waist: Problem lb.

Low bust: ProLlen C

 

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ettern 12

Alter-

Prohlem 111: E; C1388 lez15t‘1 "t +11: center f11211t
t1'111111'e 1"1'eCC1 t:2 111.11.1- 31.11152 dart.

ation cert 01‘ Q/lC Q1011

ProLleJ: 2: 31111;“: s at the bustline». Pcttern 12111-121111
l/rl inch.

H- .V‘ . :.. -.‘ 1 o“ 1 \ - -n»' w
1112 1,115.13: 1. 131.1ng at 11011t «11.:ISCLfb-

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dart of 1/4 inch transferred to a vertical 515.311.

PI'OLLl .31 1:3: 1‘.er t11ess over the shoulder blede. Petteru
51398-111 l/4 .L11c‘.1.£l New dart introduced at t‘1'11;.-1'.1'aLstli11e.

pL'OL‘lem 1:: Ex AFC 55 length at the center 12'12‘

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Pattern 12

- , . _ ., , 1 .
‘ :71 E2: Excess ease above the 1111911111“ fult 01
3

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I .1

Pattern 1,. Dress

gettern had the following

The girl who used the 111.-eve

figure veriations:
Large Lust circumference or short scye length at the
f'Cht armscye: Problem 1.

High, promihcn shoulder blade: Problem 20.

Pronounced, high curve at the side hip: Problem 65—

Heavy thighs: Problem 34.

T ,- .21 .-. 13,-.‘y 1‘
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Bodice Front

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Pattern l5
Problem 1: Bulge at front erscye. Alteration cart
or 1/8 inch transferred to the waistline darts.

 

Problem 20: Bulge at upoer back armscye. Alteration
dart of 1/5 inch transferred to the waistline cart
and to the shoulder for ease.

 

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Long arwu Problem CO.

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: Bulge at front Mi}
'2! / 4‘ o ‘ _ A. ‘ ’ '
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ll: Inadequate scye length at center beck.
Eréetltzern 8 re u-d l/B incn at tne center back, Sprung at
§ ilOLll'ier blade and trensterred to the shoulder seem
t 01‘ ease.

"‘

‘-1 (DYLLlem BO: Bulge at uyper beck arrscye. Alteint ion
“ice 1‘1: of 1/3 inch trensierred to tire Frewltn dart seam.

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{I 693222272712?" W M~~—-—/
; ,’ .' /

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern 14

Problem '26: Excess cap height on front of sleeve.
Alteration dart of 'é/S inch.
1 "

Fronts-m 5‘; : Excess c3“) Fleivfzt on Deck. of slm‘sve.

L4

A11”. era-4135.011 dart of 1/5- 1:1031.

'\ - “ , fl _ t. _ _ . 1‘ .1,“
‘FLWULZLEfiY 89. luadeguete sleeve length. I‘ttexfl
S Diwecuj ll/Q inch tetwecr elbow and wrist.

Problem lil: Excess length at the
altxiCul (iart of 1/4 inch tcpered to

ent.r
Y .Li

d’O

uck. Alter-
s

H.

i
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t
J
1 \ “~ : 1 t
l V 'E i 9'
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#v"
o-
—
-.
‘ ’
H

..---—.__‘ -~-~.--

Skirt 13

C'r . ~.J—
LJL'Lll. LI

(1‘)
‘P
rfi
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d
4
_ m4
_ fl--- fi-_~_~_.__._.._.l . .._ _ .
O
h
p.)
('1'
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‘ n ? -..
i \i center ; sine
l ' . a) g T 3
g. t.‘ tack ; dacn
, :4 l" ,
; 2: R': 5}
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f, {j \ 3}
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-
. .,_,..--'.’,.- ..
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3
1
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I
5

Pattern 14

Problem 34: Skirt tight over thigh. P'ttern 3
total of 1/2 inch over the heavy thigh. Size 0
waistline tucks increased.

Problem 38: Side seen of skirt
Alteration dert of o/@ inch t
to Side seam.

swinging forward.
center back tapered

 

‘l

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.—_-

 

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Pattern 15. Dr 88

,, . . +‘ x.‘ 7 y 1 7‘ ‘ v". 77
fqe girl who used one otove pattern nun tne follfifinlnb

figure variations:

Largo bust ci“cnnference or short scye length at tflfie
front (313: Problem l.

Low bust:
High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 2“.

Narrow back at scye line: Problem P8.

Smell arm circumference: Problem so.

Figure leaning back from the waist: Problem l5-
Pronounced, nigh curve at the Sine nip. Problenl
Heavy thighs: Problem 54.

Large hip circumference: Problem 343.

 

 

I

L" , -' \ “ ~ 1.
uoiiCe rxih.

' Bouice Front,

 

W

 

 

j
5' . .:
l j I I,

I l ’ I /.

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Pattern 15

. l - Eulie at front crmscve. Alteration daft
L ..

" Lj/o inch transferred to the voistline cart.
Problezri 5: Excess ease above the bustline. Unccrnrxzz
dart lox-‘ceren l l/EB inc“
crnscye. Al

e“ dart.

. . w- .3 .. 1.
fit ULJLJGL' U..Cu
-’L

ensferred to a new should

pl'Oblt‘j-{l o‘-_/\JO
dart of l/‘o inch tr
EQrCDCJJEx; 22: Bulge at the end of back waistline dart.
zllt,e.xnt,Lon dcrt of 3/16 inch tapered to armscye.
Problem 2.: Excess length at the center tack.
EJtLiJULl Queri;cf 3/8 inch tapered to the side seem.

ulter-

Aw l,_.__..._._-._--.‘

IL

 

 

‘ECGSS ceu 1
"iert of 3/8 incn.

Problem BC:
Alteration

Protlcn 27: E:.cess can height on ‘
alters tion (Lent oi" l/B inch.
”“2 Excess sleeve width above

7‘ . 1-” . ..

Alte thion nert oi l/4 inch tnlon*

\
J

>i+ht on front of

f“

'C? of sl

“.4.

front of

r
ll [(1

sleeve.

the elbow.

Sl'FHB‘Jfi-l.

 

 

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I Skirt I okiit I :; Skirt Each 1
f‘ _‘ . I ° .| I 1‘
a tenter ~ Side ' (I II I
i. " , i . ¥_ I ' I?
I rront I; Front ,; ;; I
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Pattern IE

I. Problem 55: Skirt swinging outwerg at the side seam.
Alteration car 3 at 5/e inch ot the center front end

t
center back. Pattern Spread 1/4 incn a side sear.

J. Probleuioiz Skirt tight over thiih. Pattern Syread
iL/4 inch over the heavy thigh.

A. Problem 36: Skirt cussing under hips due to inadequate
width at the hiy level. ‘ettern sgreed l/l inch. Size
of waistline nart increased.

 

 

'1 #31“

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rx

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Pattern lC. Dress

Tne girl who used the above gettern had the followiJHS
figure varietion:

r

Pronoanced, high curve at the side hip: Problem 5h?-

 

 

1;
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--—.-. c-n .

- ‘C- -.—-.....-.

Skirt Front

- __ -fi—r‘
“#gm- "-
-7“ M.—

Pattern 16

Problem 33: Skirt swinging outvard
Alteration 'erts of 3/6 inch at the
center Lack transferred to 3 Spread
over pronounced hip curve.

_‘——._.—
M

Sile seem.

center front and
a the side seem

 

n-—- c— *M'

\- h-..-..¢ -..»..

.I
I

 

 

Pattern 1?. Suit

‘

The girl wn used the etove

figure verietions:

Pronounced, higa curve e

Large hio circumference:

Short waisted: Problem

 

t the side hip:
Problem 36.

(I. "l .

eettern hed the folloniiké

ProtlemfiBS-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern l?

A. protlem 33: Skirt swinging outward at side seam. Alter-
ation dart of 5/8 inch at center front transferred to new

waistline darts. alteration dart of l/B inch at center
front transferred to ease ct the side seam.

B. Problem 56: bkirt cupping under hips due to inedelncte
width at the hip level. Pattern Spread l/Q inch ct the
hips. Size of waistline cert increased.

C. Problem 24: (Not illustrated) Excess length between :he
bustline and waistline in front and back. alteration
dart of 1/6 inch in all sections of the jacket.

 

 

I
I
I
I
1
I
1

.—-_o -.__

 

Tne girl who used the stove gattern nad the follOWlDE
figure variations:

Large bust circumference: Problems 2 and 14.

vivrAv—‘fl '— '—

Hide sice beck: Problem 18.

 

I."

Figure leaning back from the waist: Problem c.

Pronounced, nigh curve at the sice nip. Problem 3J5-
1

Heavy thigis: Problem 34.

r—v
I

Lerxe nip circumference: Prohlen JC.

(“-1

Low, prominent Shoulder blade' Frotlem cl.

Short unper arm: Protlem CE.

 

 

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,/

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1 .
I 1
1 .
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WWW—1 I II 1
I I 1

1‘ ~ I

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r--——-

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A.

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a. V/I‘In 7%. ”Jr/111’; (Z/{f Amid/ID
I

 

Pattern 18

Problem 14: Excess length at the center front. Alter-
ation dart of l/é inch transferred to a new weistline

dart.

Prob e; 2: Tightness at the bustline. Pattern spread
l/é inch at the bust point.

Frotlem 18: Inndenuete width in the side tech. Pattern
Spread 1/4 inch near armscye ew waist ine dart
introduced.

Problem " EKcess length at the center beck. ulter-

U.

ation dart of 3/4 inch tapered to the center front.

 

 

 

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Pattern 18

a. Problem as: Skirt swinging outward at the side seam.
Alteration nart of o/c inc: at the center front taberen

to the side seam.

r
\
A

F. Problem 34: Skirt tight over thign. Pattern stread
total of 3/4 inch over heavy thigh. New waistline

a

an ts.

G. Problem 56: Skirt cupping under nips due to inadequate
width. Pattern Spread 3/3 inch at the nip level. Lize
of waistline dart increased.

A

131

> ~
/ A ”3

1
i
3

h

i

   

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1' \ \ 2
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Pattern lo
' ' M «r . '7‘" .2 .- .. - . «'r » F. - ~ .‘
d. PfObltm 2. rlhntness t ta: tastlrne. rnttcrn 5,1utn

a
1/4 inch at the bust gornt.

I. Problem 81; Bulge at lower curve of Luck armscye.
alteration dart or 1/4 incn transferred to tnc waltt-
line dart Lnd a new neck dart.

C4
0

Problem 15: Excess length at tne center back. ulter-
ation nart of é/4 incn transferred to the front waist-
l 1118 uéll't o

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Bolero Sleeve /

  

l

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l/AM/l’ /AJ/I” [IA/'4‘ .IL; 4AA.../ 'I/ L

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Pattern 18

K. Problem 27: ExceS‘ C'p oel ght on back of
Alteration dart of l/l

[A
k4
(D
U)
x:
Q

-LI‘MJZL.

u. Protlex 2;: Excess sle langtx be 33m eltow and
girtn. Altere tion da rt

"43
of 5/4 inch.

 

Pattern 19. Dress

T1e girl wno used the stove Usttern had the follO‘Wi118
figure Variations:

Large bust circumference: Problem l4.

wide side frent: Protlem lC.

Reletively flat Lt the side of bust: Problem Go

ff‘

.v-~_ -.- 1_ ‘ '. ’1 ‘ ‘],, 1‘ . TW. ‘
Alge been at S1culuer bicne. flongm ;,

 

Figure leezling bee}; iron the waist: Proclem co

Pronounced, nion curve st tne side hip: Protlez!1

 

 

 

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tb

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7?

Side
Front

   

-
L...»- ...—-m...-.

 
 
 

   

   

If?) erT

r/I/MWZZV/X All/1’1

 

pO—‘fl’-..

tattern l3

Problem 14: Excess length at the center front. Alter-
ation dart or 1/8 inc? transferred to Erench dart Se
Problem lC: Inedeeuate widtn in the side front. Pattern
Spread l/4 incn at the armscye and teoered to the Frencn
dart seem.

“yo leg: 6: dee rerm dart holmi n; excess enitn et sine

01‘ l L; Time. Part Of dart trenflfeired to the Fren<:.1 nairt

‘_ ‘ ‘ ' J " ‘ "‘ ‘ fin \ f A H- *- awn

L‘l'OblelL} if... Tlgzltlless OVUL' 131123 .‘2LIU -lebl bluue. rufu‘flil
L- : n+-

Sgresd 1/4 inch at prominent snouluer. Jeistltne init

increased in size and new ~1U11£1€l uairt .“Lntl‘tJLLL‘LCUu.

Problem 13: Excess lengtn at tie center back. thereticn
dart of o/e incn tapered to nt center frent.

 

 

 

 

r
II \
f \L C ' w
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l \ / i H
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WK”: ‘7 [gar/a I L]; / 114/ng 111W {WW—“pl /l—— » . :r- -‘ In)” LIL'YQ 157/! wnfl” ' 2‘ F
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rughu, '— I'W"hv—_ ,

’3‘:

1

Skirt Front 3 I Skirt back

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——'——M‘—'.—’ Q ~_ “I \H‘Q-— ., >

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A
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“attern l9

Erotlem so: Shirt swinging outwerd at the side seem.
alteration dart of 3/d inch at the center front and
center Leek tapered to the side seam.

13::

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t.
t
f.
f:

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v )l"- a..- v-— A f

 

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Pattern 20. Dress and bolero

.,~ , ,,- .-~ ‘ AN L ,3} a, r r- 1 ‘ r. ’ -‘ 13."..1Lf
In: Lllfl.lnh).15cd tne LnnJJe Jatte111Iurj the LolCl.«'f>‘-l-"L

fi;ure variations:
snort waisted: Problem 34.
Small Lust circumferezce: Protlem 3.
Relatively flat at tne side of tue bust: Protllfz’l"1

Prominent shoulder blade: Protlcms 20 and El.

 

 

L3.

 

 

lo?

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f/

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PattOFd BO

bustline and

in! f\'tl +‘v‘
HeVJAA v.19

s/e incn in front

‘ «J
Ie-

‘ Excess length ;
dart Ff

A. Protlem 84.
waistline. alteration

and in back.

at the bustline. ulteretion
Size of waist-

B. Problem 5: Excess ease
Lust point.

dart or l/S incn Lt tne
line dart decreased.

C. Problem 6:
side of figure.
waistline dert.

2o: Bulge at utper
l/Ei- inCEI trcL-isferred

Underarm dart holding excess length at
Part of dart trensrerred to e new

arms eye . Alt eret ion

‘acl
to a new neck dart.

L3

D. ProblenI
dart 01'

 

Pattern 20. Dress and bolero

The girl who used the etove pattern had the rollcfifllms

figure variations:
Short waisted: Problem 24.
Small bust circumference: Protlem 3.
Relatively flat at the side or tne bust: Protleun 6-

Prominent shoulder blade: PrOLlemS 20 and El.

 

 

 

n1

.

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a
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/

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Pro Llezn {3'1 .
waistline.
and in tech.

Problem 6: Ex
dart or l/S in
line dart cc c

Problem 6:

side

ProblenI
dart of

O
O
u

so
1/

  
 

/;r ‘1‘?”77; }r
l
“.444

‘ Excess length Lc
hlteret ion

() (3

("I

Underarm ucrt
of I'i5ure .
waistline dart.
Bulge at upper
irIctI

 

 

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. 5 H
attCl‘zI ( O

and

the bustline
in front

‘1‘! r\-.
"‘ "QC/AA

dart of .5/2: inc.

JStline.

se at th
Size

e'
he bus t pOlIt.

\
CE)

n
LS

r‘ffi

r
J

(I) C“ (I!

L.) '

iold in5 excess lcn5th st
Part of dart trcnsieixed to s new
alteration
dart

ELL‘ZI‘S (EVE .
11'? iv IA‘ECI:

\ 1
I‘ I“ m r
Lad VIL

trsnsferred to s

1 '2. :2-
.L \J k-)

  
 

_.-— r;— .4
.—

BOle‘O Front \\ Bolero Beck ,w“

i
\\ \ ‘ _ ,___5 M:;‘jj

 

a. Protlem 6: Underarm dert holding excess length at
sioe of figure. Part of our t'nnsferred to the
OppOSlte edge.

F. Frotlem Cl: Bulge at lower curve of tech srnscye.
Alteration dart or 1/4 incn transferred to the waist-
line dart and to a new neck dart.

 

 

 

' \
\\‘q

Pattern 2 . Dress

The girl who used the above pattern had the follfiwflflg
figure variations:

Square shoulders: Problem lb.

Large bust circumference: Problem 2.

Relatively flat at the side of the figure: PrCiblem &
Low, prominent shoulder blade: Problem Bl.

Fi5ure leaning back from the waist: Problem l5;-

, I
Pronounced, high curve at the side hip: Problfielfl 3J'

 

l

-—__
~_-T- H “v.._._

[*3

 

4'17,

Pattern Ell

Problem 3: norizontal wrinkles below base of necfi in
front and Lech. .dterntion dart of l/d inch at center
front transferred to e Spread at the armscye. nits
ation dart of 1/4 inch at the center back transferred
to tne waistline dart and s new neck dart.

Probleniilz Tightness at the bustline. Pattern soreed
5/8 incn at the bust point.

Problem 6: underarm dart holding excess length at the
side of figure. Entire dart transferred to a new
waistline dart.

Pr Llem El: fimlge at lower curve of back arnscye. Alter-
aticnrcnirt of l/G inch transferred to the waistline uert.

Protleri £3: Excess lenrth at the center back. Alter-
aticw1chirt of l/Z inch tapered to the center front.

,r" I
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o'l’ll".",’.'ll I r v ’P'JA
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.

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[I ("ifilv’lllé/é'fl’fl _'~' :f; E

 

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— ..

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in
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0.0—."

-_._'
._.4__-_-.___——__ -

Pattern 21
F. PnfiflerdS: Skirt swin5in5 outward at the Side s< en
alerttuchrt of 5/8 iH1Cr at the center Iront trans-
f n tttc..eistl ne tuck and to the Side
etse over the

SC‘
. 15.1-
‘13-)“ JIICCE ll. ip CLIA VB 0

w 10?

 

. at?

‘i

 

 

142

 

 

Pattern 22.

Dress

The 5irl who ased the above gettern had the followilué
figure variations:

Laiie bust circumference or short scye len5th at t§n3
front armscye: Protlem 1.

Short waisted: Problem 24.
liigfil, growinent shozlder blade: Problezrz SC.
Pronounced, hi5n curve at the side hip:

on vl.r 713'
IiOp ulJ J

 

 

 

I

3.4-3
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F .

 

 

 

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a '. '

Eodice Beck

- .,. ‘. uco---‘~—- w g—ug“_
\

 

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2.3
Pattern 22
A. zrobler: l: Bulge at front armscye. Alter: ti:11 dart
of .1/4 inch transferred to the French dalt seam .

.3. Prc>t lEhJ ZDQ: Excess len5th between the t12tli11e end
wajdetlij1e. nlU32$ion dartcn‘7/8 ind1LU1iucut ami
‘baiclz.

1. FEHDLJJ3L1 2t}: bulge at Upper beck armscye. Alteration
dart of l/Ej inch transferred to a new 5—1'1=11si-;;r:r iii-gm.

 

(

1‘ / I

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‘ I
Skirt Front 1 51:11.1: Back

II . \1 \/
Ith/tlel ll 240v
f\ 1‘ V . v’I'_I. '.“--._ _‘ V'. “y ‘u ' _“ ‘ . .1 . , a: ‘ \, t]
H'Otiem on. unirt 5111111151.).11D ctltwai d at the Sim} brie!»-

Alteration dart of 1/4 incl-1 at the center front and
c nter Lac}: ttyered to t‘nc sice seam.

- fl.“ ‘ d A ‘ // N \‘ \\
”an“: \3 ’ ‘ -~ “— “1 1—‘TT---_ _ -
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"['{"""/,’/n’/[I’LIr/I (IA”/’/,”?, J (I 7'" fl 7 '— _ I .——-—-- «A A‘- 4_.JZ"a,f’(-G7m V/AI/W//4 E //V//:;2/;P:g F

 

“ — "“"“""". "1

‘15-...» -

445

 

 

 

 

n

Futtern as. Suit

m. . . 1 , - . . = , .==‘-z
1ne girl wno usen tne above pattern nag tne follcnwlnb

~e verieticns;

nigh, preninent smoulde: blade: Problem 20.
Short waisted: Pwoblem 24.
Funninent abdomen: ProLie-m 53.

Figure leaning beck from the hips: Problem o1.

 

 

 

kx-i‘r
, I

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‘ -‘

Jacket /
Side I
136C315 Ii
'1
i c

. 1"
zwmwwwwmmmvB

4
1‘ ’1
g
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f \
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l
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1' 1.
1% _ _ _ _ J‘.‘

Putnam: Bulge at szuer 1'? it of the tech &;1":I1&5C33’rj.
111te1'11tio‘1111‘e1't. of 1/4 inch t1e11ei'e1-1-ed to the French
dart seat.

P10tler1 2111: E11? :es 8 lengtn Let'ween tiuf Lmetline “11d

\ .1' ' - 9 r ». A a I ' ~ ~- 4 , a 1 ' . ‘ ,~

1m Milne. 1lt~u11t.<11 d01t: ol 14~4 lrnfl: idl uiin eecfl;.oni
J

M'Um amen

 

l4 3.1

- “AW?"

1
fl
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1

 

 

 

'ettern 26. Suit

1':

, . N . = ,, . ,r, ,7 ‘1 . '14
Tue girl wno ween tne above Pgttt‘lll Hug tne fULlow-Ub
1.1;u11: v n ittixn1s;

111511, 111'r.:1:=i11ex.t b1‘10tild61’ blade: Froblen; SEC].
Snort waisted: Protlem 24.

P1muninezn; elnjOHKnl: Pfimjtlexn 6b.
Figure lee-1111.1»; Luck from the hips: Prolilen: g.

 

 

 

1‘..

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l

' Jacket /
1 Side /
beck /

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1 =m fl
lflMWflWMWMWWflfB
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t of the heck armscyeu

Prob-lea: 230:. Bulge at upper 1
1 'enefezred to the French

14
A
ulterLtLUU dertcfl'l/4 1nfl1t1

.PrCM1ler1 2ft: lecess lfinnfifl1‘tetweex1tfln: bustlirn: and

.. . 1' 7 ‘ ’" , r .-. J ,v‘ f. F0 1“ 1 / I "'. "‘ ‘- r ‘4“ I. ‘
wehtet~1i1n3. 1the1 t tn1 dini: o1 14w1 1n311.m1 all smartiu1:
c' the Jacket.

In.
I

i

 

\
1‘ I i 'l ‘ Fax
1 ‘l‘ D K1/'/‘//{"////1I/—Z‘)Jw J/IIII'IIWrm'r' .3-
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1| ii 1 1
C l" j; ;
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H 1 1
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1' H
t1 '5
Ll-L'irt 1 1 1% Ski rt 181: wt
bide . 1% 1, Center , Side
front ‘ 5 Lack ; recK

—..’-
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ra-

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t ~m~m-—=-.—-——~__J7.-

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PLtLCfH

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(“‘1

Problem oi; ““‘rt

orzr (Juin;i1ng u1nic1' tin:
waistline cert transferred to the new for more flare.
FrOC-lem o2: Eiue 56.11111 01' 1.1111 iltirt 511114;.1111: 1'01".-'1:-..r<1=
Alteratipn dart or l/4 inch at the center tech tbfdrfd
to the Side seen.

L1 {Comet}. PLU'iL. Ul'

 

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in

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1

‘attern 24. Suit

4

m
i ,._I
fiJUre arietions:

. kJ

PromiLcut abdomen: Frohlém SE.

Large hiy Circumference: Problem 66.

Long waisted: ProLlem Eh.

 

 

 

Eu3,xirl who used the uLove Eatt6111lun1 the follOWiIMS
v

 

 

 

 

 

 

113
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1 ‘11 :1
1 11 \1 1' ‘1
1 1 1 1 ‘1
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1 1 1‘ 11 1‘
1 1 1‘ 11 1‘
I 1 ,1 ‘ "1
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. .1 i‘ 1" ‘1‘
1 11 1 =1
' 1
Skflrt Front 11 SW1rt Back 2‘
1 1 1
1. 1:1 11 ~
4 ‘ 1 ‘
1 . 11 1 K 1
1 . 11 '1 1 1
1 1‘ 1 ‘- 1 ‘
1 ~ 1 1 1 1 ’ 1
1 11 1 1 1
‘1 1. 3.1 , 1 g 1
1 '1 11 1 i ‘ 1
1 1 {1 1 '1 i 1
'. 1 1 1 1 1
‘ ‘1 ‘ ‘ ‘ 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 ‘
1 1 | ‘ 1 .
1 5' l 1 3 1
1 1 ' 1
1 1 1 1 ,-1~“

Pattern 24
Problem St: Skirt cupping Under etuomen. Part of waist-
line oart transferred to the new for more flare.
Problem 56: Skirt cupping Under the hiys due to inadequate
flare. Part of waistline dart t°unsferred to the hen.

Problem 25: (not illustrated) Inadequate length between
bustline and waistline. Pattern Spreao l incn in all
sections of the jacket.

 

:7

 

I-J
f h
C)

\‘

 

 

 

 

W1f

Pattern 25. Dress

ine girl wno uSed tne stove rwrite“. nan tne iollCfi‘l‘b
figure variation:

Longer than average arm: Problem 29.

 

 

 

 

 

__.._—‘____ «w.

1

- ,,*‘--__

 

 

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Dressicleeve :

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Pattern 25

A. Problem 29: Inadequate sleeve length. Pattern
Spread 1 inch between the elbow and girth.

A!)

"t
9

 

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but i

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Pattern 26.

 

Dress

~ - . .. . . ‘1’
Tee girl who used toe stove pattern mad the IollCTW*lb

figure variations:

Freed base of neck: Problem 7.

Rouvued shoulders and forward heed: Problem ll.
Wide beck at the shoulder blades: Problem 12.
wider than average side back: Problem 18.
Figure leaning back from the hips: Problem 32.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1':
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r
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l‘ ’ I
L a _ _ . _____ . i l
_-l-l_lll7 -U l__lj\ ', ,
r I‘ I \\ I I 1
3 s ; \D\ r Scirt ; Shirt '
‘ Bodice F ck ;\\3~.‘ Center ; Side \
; ; /,:_ .ack ; Back 1
L ‘ f , ~ '
l j t ' ’ I '7 l k
1 I," '
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,1 i 1'. '2 i i
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5 2 l .. .-. a
i I i l 'i I
A. Problem 7: Inadequate : !:
length along basic i I:
neckline. Shoulder = i;
seam let out l/B inch l'
at neckline end. i ‘9
. g .
E. Problem ll: Inadequate} i? -
scye length at center ' .3 1
back. Pattern spread : l; '
3/8 inch at center bucki ##J L ___rm_rvflfld,l-—-‘

 

and l/S inch at armscye.
Pattern 86

C. Problem 12: Tightness over shoulder blade. Pattern
spread 3/8 inch at prominent blade. Continued thrOUgh
shoulder seam for ease and through waistline for new dart.

D. Problem 18: Inadequate width in side back. Pattern
Spread 1/4 inch at armscye tabering to waistline.

E- Problem 32: Side seam of skirt swinging forward. 'Alter-
ation dart of l/2 inch at center back tapered to Side
seam.

OC300

 

Pattern 27. Dress and Jacket L

The girl who used the above pattern had the followilmé j
figure variatiOns:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at tr“?
front armscye: Problem 1.

Lower than average bust: Problem 5. ‘

 

 

 

 

 

 

ll]

1
!
x

a
i
3
i
S
I
I
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Pattern 87

Problem I: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
of l/d inch transferred to the waistline dart.

Problem 5: Excess ease above the bustline. Underarm
dart lowered 1 inch.

Problem 26: Excess cap height on front of sleeve due
to alteration made at front armscye. Alteration dart
of l/8 inch transferred to OppOSite edge.

9
v ‘ —;-——L

 

Pattern 28. Blouse

The girl who used the atove pattern had the followhn;
figure variations:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at1flm
front armscye: Problem 1.

Narrower than average shoulders: Problem 25.

 

 

 

 

Blou e

"-"' O ‘-—-.-'v“”'-“a~..a . -

 

“M-’fi -

 

 

 

.o w..l.o-.-.O-l." - -_ -‘
.—

 

—-—-' awn-

..- __

 

Pattern 2

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
of 3/8 inch transferred to the waistline dart.

Problem 25: Excess width through the shoulders. Alter-
ation darts of 1/4 inch at the front and back shoulder
seams transferred to the front and back waistline darts
increasing their size.

38

—‘ -q

 

Pattern 29. Dress

The girl who used the above battern had the following
figure variations:

Over erect figure: Problem l0.
Large bust circumference: Problem 2.

wider than average side front: Problem 16.

Low, Hrominent shoulder blade: Problem El.

 

 

   

159
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Bodice Bach

 
 

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8kg
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—
‘

 

 

 

 

 

A.

Pattern 29

Problem lCu Inadequate scye length at center front.
Pattern suread 5/16 inch tapering to armscye.

Problem 2: Tightness at bustline. Pattern spread l/4

inch at bust point. Continued through yoke seam for ease

and through the waistline dart to increase its size.

Problem 16: Inadequate width in side front. Pattern
Spread 3/16 inch at armscye tapering to waistline.

Problem 21: Bulge at lower curve of back armscye.
Alteration dart of l/d inch transferred to waistline
dart and shoulder ease.

l ' .
g . l _ ' it

ii Ir‘ . g l

: .i ‘ J 1' ,4"
l ‘ — fl ‘

 

was.» a 3 "NH.“

 

lt/Q

 

Pattern so. Suit

The girl who used the stove pattern had
figure variations:

Large bust circumference or snort scye 1
front armscye: Problems 1 and l4.
Ktil‘l'C".V€-,i‘ than average shoulders: Pro‘tle
1

High, inaniinent shoulder blade: Problem

FI‘OIn'MrCGd; :‘iiell curve at the Side hill”):

 

the followjihé

ifljgjtil at the

.r. (‘3:
:1: Ad.

far-x

\_. .

r

. ,r v
Pi'OLlEm Ck)‘

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Jacket ; {\ Jacket . H I /
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k fi¥ .. h---H.________, -______ '-——-—.__.__‘_,_~__ #” “J L‘ ‘ _..» ‘_____'___-.——-v A
Pattern 30
A. Problem 14: Excess length at center front. nlteretion
dert of l/o inch transferred to the French dart seen.
B. Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
of l/I’} inch transferred to the French dert seam.
C. Problem 33: Excess width through shoulders. Alteret on

D.

darts of 1/4 inch at front end beck shoulder seam. Front
alteration transferred to e syreed at lower jacket edge.
Back alteration transferred to the waistline dart.

Problem 20: Bulge at upper part of back armscye. Alter-
ation dart or l/d inch transferred to shoulder ease.

 

"5 T"!

fiL‘E‘E 22:1" ‘ 7'7"":

m

I! \ l
E‘ $(7,}/ll‘///'77)],7Illll/Il'll”’Ill'I'I".'. ""'—"“—""'—-".- - I""f"'F/fll/JI/ll/l/I/I///fiV//Z/72//z/lym; E
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okirt Front \ Shirt Beck }

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E

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—-_.-...- ..

 

1 fl...”

Pattern 50

E. Problem so: Skirt swinging outward at the side seam.
Alteration dart of 1/4 inch at the center front tutered
to the side seam. Alteration dert of l/B inch at the
center beck tapered to the side seam.

 

 

 

 

  

h

Pattern 31. Dress

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

Large bust circunfierence: Problem 2.

Wider than avertge side front: Problem 16.
Low Lust: Problem 5.

Long weisted; Protlem EL.

hide back at shoulder blades: Problem 1?.

High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 20.

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

,/f
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L_____; L-J ""“‘J L-__J 1l_l L-__‘\/

Pattern 51

A- Problem 31 T.Lghtnes s at the bustline. Pattern spread
1/4 inch at bust point.

E- Problem 16: Inadequate width in ::ide front. Pattern
Spread l/4 inch at arr-m cye tapering to waistli; t.

C. Problen 5: Excess ease above the bustline. Underarm
dart lowered 15 inches.

D. Problem 25: Inadequate_lencth between Lustline and waist-
line. Pattern srread 1; inches in front a.d lac

E. Problem 2: Tl-ntneos ver shoulder blade. Pattern
Spread 3/8 inch at prominent shoulder. New waistline
dart and more shoulder ease introduced.

F. Problem 2 : Bulge at upper part of back armscye. alter-
ation dart of 1/8 inch transferred to vertical slash.

 

 

Pattern 32. Dress

The girl who used the above oattern had the follOWing
figure variation:

hider than average tack at shoulder blades: Problem 12.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A.

Pattern 32

Problem 2: Tightness over the shoulder blade. Pattern
Spread 5/8 inch at prominent shoulder. Slash continued
through the shoulder seam for ease and through the
waistline dart to increase its size.

 

167

 

 

 

Pattern 53. Dress and Jacket

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
front armscye: Problem 1.

Wider than average side front: Problem 16.
Figure leaning back from the waist: Problem 5.
High, prominent shoulder blade: Problem 2C.
Wider than average side back: Problem 18.

Large arm circumference: Problem Bl.

Pronounced, high curve at the side hip: Problefl115o'

 

AI

no

')
I).

 

    

 

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F Wilm\\ \ g 1 i
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\ Side V Side
\ g .
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\‘ 1 \
k - 1 ~ ' \mmmmzmnni'
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...- .-
"’ —‘

 

 

 

 

 

F _______

Pattern 33

n
----- J Lag—‘4‘

Problem 1: Bulge at the front a.i‘-1nscye. Alteration dart
of l/4.hnflltransferred to the French dart sean.
Edoblmnlfia Inadequate width in side front. Pattern
Sphfiflil/4 inch at lower armscye.

Lo

Problem o. .{Lteiedxion

dart of l/E

Excess length at center back.
inch tabered to side seam.

Prdflem:20: Bulge at upper part of back armscye. Alter-
atbn1dartc£ 1/3 inch transferred to French dart seam.

Q .
L20

Prdflem Inadequate width in side back. Pattern

Spread l/4 inch at lower armscye.

1 to
'.

, j
r
l

l I
(T ' mar/1.41m wawmlwmzrtmim H
. , , r, \

 

.-
'5.
- ‘0‘;-

1 _ .
l : . i

    

Bodice
Center
Front

 

- 4--
/, ----~— -.

‘—.-—-v-—‘__
-Ival .-,_

 

F. Problem 14: Excess length at center front. alteration
dart or l/4 inch transferre to the French dart seam.

o. PIOLlfiflfl SC: Excess cap height on front of sleeve due
to alteration made at front armscye. Alteration dart
of 1/4 inch.

ii .Problfinn 2?: Excess cap height on back of sleeve due to
alteuwition made at back armscye. Alteration dart of

1} Paxflilen1Lol: Inadequate sleeve width. Pattern spread l/B
iruni ai;.lower edge on front quarter division line tager-
irng‘to 110thing at the sleeve cap. Pattern syreae o/S
irnni tJLrough the entire sleeve on the back quarter
division limm

 

 

 

, 13%:
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4, i {I
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Pattern 53
Prcbl em 33) : Ski. rt swinging outward at the side 8881;}.

“ [(‘N

Alteration darts of ..L/.-- inch at the center front and
center back t -ansi‘erred to a Spread at the side seen
over the pronounced hip curve.

 

 

Pattern 54. Dress

The girl who used the above pattern had no figure
variations that required pattern alterations. She had
average posture and was relatively slender for her bone
structure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

172

 

 

 

 

Pattern 55. Dress

e girl who used the above pattern had the following

Th
'e variations:

figur
Narrower than average shoulders: Problem a3.
Wide back at the shoulder blades: Problem 12.

Figure leaning back from the waist: Problem 32.

 

 

 

176

 

    

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l.-_._,____: l‘;__H_-._ --- .
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Pattern 35

Excess width through the shoulders.

a. Problem 2o: ,
Alteration dart of l/4 inch at the front shoulder seam
Alteration dart

tapered to the lower edge of the yoke.
of l/4 inch at the back shoulder seam transferred to a
Spread at the waistline.

Pattern

l. Problem 12: Tightness over the shoulder blade.

Spread .‘5/16 inch at the prominent shoulder by trans-
ferring; part of the waistline dart to the sh ulcer seam.
Original shoulder dart transferred to a position above
the prominent shoulder blade.

C.

 

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Pattern

Problem 32: Side seam of

7c.
0..)

skirt swinging forward.

Alteratunxdart cf l/Z inch at the center back

tapered to Una side seaUn

l74

.9 4...- “a... .- .g....__... ..-T
I t

17““

 

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Pattern 36. Suit

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
front armscye: Problem 1.

Long waisted: Problem 25.

high, prominent shoulder blade: Problem EC.

 

 

 

A.

D

C.

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Pattern 36

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration
dart of S/lG inch transferred to the French dart seam.
Protlem 25: Inadequate length between the bustline and
waistline. ’ettern arread 1 inch in all sections of
the jacket.
Problem 20: Bulge at the upper part of back armscye.
Alteration dart or o/l6 incn transferred to the Frea h
dart seam.

 

‘ .—

\*'

177

Pattern 37. blouse

The girl who used the aLove

patterixluul the following
figure variation:

large bust circumference or short scye length at the
front arrscye: Problem 1.

'2
fi;

r

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t
:

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Problem 1:

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Blouse

 

I

 

 

175

Front "

 

 

 

Pattern 57

Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration
dart of 1/4 inch tapered to the bust Point and trans-
ferred to more gathers at the drooped shoulder line.

 

 

 

Pattern 58. Dress and Jacket

he girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variation:

Low, prominent shoulder blade: Problem El.

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 58

a. Problem 2 : Bulge at the lower curve or back armscye.
Alteration dart of l/4 inch transferred to the waist-
line cart.

~_ _ —,-_-._ - A_.___.—A__

 

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9
n
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Pattern 59. Suit

Tne girl wno used the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

Large bust circumference: Problem 2.
Heavy thighs: Problem 54.
Figure leaning back from the nips: Problem 32.

Large hip circumference: Problem 56.

 

 

 

1C8

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 69

2b Problem 2: Tightness at the bustline. Pattern agreed
3/8 inch at the bust point. Size of the waistline
darts increased.

 

D.

ldé
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Pattern 39

Problem 34: Skirt tight over thigh. Pattern streeu
total of 1 inch over the heavv thirh.

Problem 62: Side seem of skirt

swinging forwerd. Alter-
ation oert of 1/2 incn at the center back tapered to the
side seam.

Problem 36: Skirt cunning under the hips due to in-
adequate width. Pattern Spread 1 inch at the hip level.

34‘!

A! _

 

 

 

 

 

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m
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Pattern 40. Dress and Bolero

The girl who used the above pattern had the follOWMfi>
figure variations:

Wide back at the shoulder blades: Probl m 12-
Nerrower then average side back: Problem 19.

Figure leaning back from the hips: Problem $24

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 40

Problem 1?: Tightness over shoulder blade. Pattern
Spread 1/4 inch at prominent shoulder. Size or waist—
line dert increased.

Problem 19: Excess width in side back. alteration dart
of 5/16 inch near lower armscye tapered to the shoulder
seam and continued through the waistline. Amount removed

at waistline was added by alteration A.

Problem 32: Side seem of skirt swinging forward. Alter-
ation dart of 3/3 inch at center beck tapered to side seam.

 

 

\

Pattern 41.

Elouse
The girl who used the stove pattern had the followhg

figure variations:
Large bust circumference and short scye lengthIHLthe

armscye: ProLlems l and 2.

front

 

 

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k4

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 41

h
I.--

Problem 2: Tightness at the bustline. Pattern Spread
3/8 inch at bust point. Slash continued through the
dropped shoulder line for more gathers and through the
waistline dart to increase its size.

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
of 1/4 inch transferred to gathers at the dropped
shoulder line.

 

 

Pattern 42. Suit

The girl who used the above pattern had the followim;
figure variations:

 

Narrower then average shoulders: Problem 23.
Small bust circumference: Problem 5.

Short waisted: Problem 24.

 

Figure leaning back from the hips: Problem 6&3.

Short scye length at front armscye: Problem 1»

   

    
    

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Pattern 48

Problem 20: Excess width through shoulders. Alteration
darts cuTLL/4 inch at shoulder seam of center front and
side iinKt. Alteration dart of l/B inch at shoulder seam
of side back.
ProbleanS: Excess ease at bustline.
l/B iJMNl at bust point continued from alteration n.
Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
transferred to the French dart seam.

Alteration dart of

Problem 1-
of l/‘d inch
‘9 ' Excess length between bustline and waistline.

Problem 9 .
Alteratdini dart of 5/8 inch in all sections of jachet.

iao

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 42

LL Prmflilenaibfi: Side seam of skirt swinging forward.
Alteration dart or l/S inch at the center back
tapered to the side seam.

 

 

 

Pattern 43. Dress

The girl who used the above Pattern had the follOWlflé
figure variations:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
front armscye: Problem 1.

Nide back at the shoulder Llades: Problem 12.

Narrower than average side back: Problem 19.

 

 

 

/ 192;

Eodice Front

 

"

i
\ I
Bodi e\Back

 

Pattern 43

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
of 3/8 inch transferred to the underarm dart and to the
waistline tuck.

Problem 12: Tightness over shoulder blade. Pattern
Spread 5/8 inch at prominent shoulder. Size of the
waistline dart increased.

Problem 19: Excess width in the side back. Alter-
ation dart of l/S inch at the lower armscye increased
to 3/8 inch at the waistline. Amount removed from the
waistline added by alteration B.

 

193

 

 

Pattern 44. Suit

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variations:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
front armscye: Problem 1.

Narrower than average side front: Problem 17.
Narrower than average side back: Problem 19.
Heavy thighs: Problem 54.

Large hip circumference: Problem 36.

 

 

 

Paa-
,l I F‘.

* - .— .A-. .——- A
‘_._ ..-..-___._—_..—'———-—-

 

194

 

Jacket Back

Uf~"—- .a‘...‘ ~O~d~ o.‘

nu. v.-. r...*..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 44

Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye. [iteration
dart of 3/8 inch transferred to a waistline dart.

Problem 1?: Excess Wifltd in side front. Alteration
dart of l/o inch near lower armscye tapered to the
waistline and transferred to a waistline dart.

Problem ls: Excess width in the side bacx. alteration
dart of l/b inch near lower armscye tapered to the
shoulder seam and to the waistline by slashing to the
armscyeInMISpringing the pattern. Excess transferred
to the lower edge of Jacket.

“q j”

 

*‘n-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 44

Problem 34:
total of 5/4 inch.

Skirt tight over thigh. Pattern Spread a
Size of waistline darts incressed.
Problem.m3: Skirt copying under the hips due to in-
adeduumavddtn. Pattern Spread a tetal or 6/4 inch at
thelmnulevel. Size of the waistline darts increased.

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196

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

k, .

Pattern 45. Dress and Bolero

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variation:

 

Largerthen average bust circumference: Problem 2.

 

137

 

 

 

.P-—¢

 

 

Pattern 45

Problem 2: Tightness at the bustline. Pattern spread
22A3 inch at the bust point. Size of waistline dart
increased.

.35

 

Pattern 46. Suit

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variations: _

\
Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
front armscye: Problem 1.

Heavy thighs: Problem 54.
Figure leaning back from the waist: Problem 52.

Large hip circumference: Problem 36.

 

E

\

x A
i {14)} it“: **

xi

 

1&1
Jacket Fronty‘
r"

 

rmv~-u ”w-‘~ .,,_, -—-.- --..—-‘-—__ — a.-.
~

Pattern 46

A. Problem 1: Bulge at the front armscye radiating from
the bust point. Alteration dart of l/4 inch trans-
ferred to the waistline dart.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a...
h
m ———-___
l
‘

 

Protlem
total of 6/8

Protlem

K Sairt F11

 

g

nt

 

 

 

"A ,4 .
\J”t o

58

 

 

 

r
b
a
- .— -
J —’-¥ j
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_ ‘_ v! ff

Skirt tight over thigh.
inch.

 

BOO

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———_—__

Pattern 46

Side seam of skirt swinging forward.

the waistline dart.

Pattern Spree
size of Laistline darts increas

‘d a
ed.

Alter-

atixnz dart of l/8 inch at the center back transferred to

Problem

level.

36:

Skirt cupping under the hips due to in-
adequate WidUL

Pattern Spread l/Z inch at the nip

Size of the waistline dart increased.

r f"

4,”;

Eéddoé

 

 

Pattern 47. Dress and Bolero

The girl who used the above gattern had the following
figure variations:

Narrower than average shoulders: Problem 23.
Low bust: Problem ‘

U0

Wide back at the shoulder blades: Problem 12.

 

 

 

 

 

(3 (‘\
a ice

 

Bodice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pattern 47

Problem 26: Excess widtl through shoulders. Alter-
ation dart of l/E inch at the front shoulder seam
tapered to the bust point. Alteration dart of l/S
inch at the backsahoulder seam continued tc the end
of the waistline dart.

PrOLlem b: Excess ease above the bustline. alter-
atiOn dart from the front shoulder seam pivoted at
the bust soint. Underarm dart lowered 1; inches.

Problem 2: lightness over the shoulder blade. Pattern
Spread 5/8 inch at the prominent shoulder. Slash
continued through the shoulder seam for more ease and
through the waistline dart to increase its size.

s of;

Pattern 45. Dress

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variation:

 

Shorter than average scye length:

Problem 15.

 

 

 

F ‘7
c
PK"

 

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L

 

Pattern 48

A. Problem 15: Horizontal wrinkles below base of neck
in.front and beck. Alteration darts of 1/4 inch
between the scye line and shoulder seam at the center
Idmnrt and center back extendind tnrougn the armscye.

 

{ZOL

 

Pattern 49. Suit

The girl who used the above pattern had the followinc
figure Veriet on:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
fICI¢.LuJWSCyEJ Frctlnxx 1.

 

 

.—-- M>a~>—‘. _--

A.

 

Problem 1: $4-;r
the bust point.
ferre" to the Waii

 

't the front aimmygns_radiating fknnn
1

tion hurt of 3/16 inch trans-
darts increasing their size.

(‘3
C‘)

 

:ettern SO. Biouse

The girl who used the above tattern had the following
I'i{;;‘..1re variations:
Rounded shoulders and forward need: Problem ll.

Narrower then average side beck: Problem la.

nigh, prominent shoulder blade: Problem PC.

j) (W C)

JKI

 

 

Blouse Back

 

CD
\u“. ____
I

 

_-.‘—\.-~.

\‘--‘,§\&§\ s\s§\lmm\m\>\\\k$ lemme“: ““

  
 

 

 

 

/
Pattern SO

Ihndbleuxll: Inadequate scye length at the center buck.
Fatflnern screed l/& inch at center back tapering to the

armscye.

Pimflfilem 19: Excess width in the side beck. Alteration
(jali; of l/B inch near lower armscye tapered to slash
.fOL‘EJlEeFdClOJ A end continued through the lower eube

of tflie blouse.

Pixiblan BO: Bulge at upper part of the heck armscye.
E"Cel14tl0u unrt of l/8 inch transferred to BLSG at

‘tina sfiiouluer seen.

 

 

‘

 

 

 

 

l

 

/
it

 

 

 

 

\J”

'attern 51. Dress and Jacket

’\1

The girl who used the above pattern had the followim;
figure vsrietions:

Large bust circumference or short scye length at the
frOnt armscye: Problem 1.

FJ

Wide back at the shoulder blades: Problem
Heavy thighs: Problem 34.
Figure leaning back from the hips: Problem 32.

Large hip circumference: Problem 56.

 

 

Jacket
Side . Jacket
Front

W

‘—-——---A -~m “e W.._ -n..--.. ——--. .— — .- -.. _‘-.‘ — - «i

 

 

 

Pattern 51

Puwdblen l: Bulge at the front armscye. Alteration dart
oi‘ l/S inch transferred to the French dart seam.

leflllem 12: Tightness over the shoulder blade. Pattern

sixread l/4 inch at the prominent shoulder. Slasn tapered
tc>'the shoulder seam and continued through the waistline

unieiwe a new dart was introduced.

.- ,- 17---“:‘Fi'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pattern 51

Problem 154: £31: irt tight over thief... Pa tern s ire-ad
6/3 inc I1 over hea vy thir‘n.

Problem. 523:1de s3am of shirt swim; in: fora-ward. .Iglter-
ation u‘art of l/‘ci‘i nch at the center back tapered to the
side semm

Problem 56: shirt cupping under hips due to inadequate
flare. Part of waistline dart transferred to tne new.

     

\.

 

Pattern 52. Dress

Tne girl wno used the above oattern had the following

figure variations:
Broad base of neck: Problem 7.
Jide back at the shoulder blades: Problem 12.
Hip-7n, prominent shoulder blade: Problem “I .

iv

Figure leaning back from the hips: Problem 32.

 

 

 

-._ -_ -—. ~

A

 

 

 

.— - ..
-—- a...— “In—.w-m——---“ -k‘...r.,.,o

.—

A. Problem '7: Inadequate
length along basic ne c1:-
line. snoulder eem let
out l/E’ inch at neckline
end i11 Ilont and tea .

-.——.37.
_.fi—-—"-'

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Pattern 58

Problem 1‘2: Tigkmness OVt‘l‘ shoulder Ll
Syreeu l/Ll 1110.1 at prominent si1or.1lder. dhi‘t intro-
CLJQHBQ alt neckline and Size 01 waiecline ouLt 11 016; eel.

le . Pattern
We

c.1(
‘ .
I
L

/

Problem :30: 13111:;th upper part of Lec‘; armscye. ulter-
ation dart of l/J inc‘1 trans- ferred to sho‘rlzl er dart.
Problem 323:31de seen of skirt sw.’u1;_;ing fox-ward. ulter-
ation dart of l/ES inch at center back transferred to the
waistline for -_-. new (1'.-.113.

Eli

 

 

 

Pattern 56. Dress and Bolero

The girl who used the above pattern had the following
figure variation:

Smaller than average bust circumference: Problem 5.

to.
\

Front

 

 

 

 

Pattern 5

Problem 6: Excess ease at the bustline. Alteretion
dart of l/4 inch at the bust point tapered to the
neckline and continued through the weistline dart to
decrease its size.

VI. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

It was recognized, before starting this survey. that
a study of fifty-three college girls could not present all
of the possible fitting problems. However, the writer
believed that the number was sufficiently large to give
an indication of the common problems to be found in any
group of this type.

Fitting problems were caused by individual variations
from the standard body measurements and the average erect
posture on which the pattern companies base their pattern
slopers. Each problem that was discovered while fitting
the paper patterns, the frequency of its occurrence. and
the figure variation causing the problem is summarized in
Table 59, pages 223 and.224.

There were three anatomical reasons for these individual
figure deviations: namely. variations in bone structure,
posture, or distribution of flesh. Some fitting problems
were brought about by a combination of these factors.
Others, could not be attributed to a Specific cause without
an exhaustive study of the physical deve10pment of each
figure. A prominent shoulder blade is usually considered

to be due to poor posture, however, if this faulty posture

217
started in early childhood, it could have develOped into
bone structure by the time the girl attained college age.1
For this reason, no attempt was made to separate those
figure variations which.might be the result of either
posture or bone structure.

Similarly, the width of the side front or side back
of a figure in relation to the width of the center front
or center back could be the effect of a variation in bone
structure or distribution of flesh. Consequently, fitting
problems caused by figure variations of this nature were
grouped together.

Classifications of the fitting problems according to
the figure variation (or variations) are presented in the
following tables: Fitting Problems Caused by Variations
in Bone Structure. Table 40, page 225; Fitting Problems
Caused by Variations in Distribution of Flesh. Table 41.
page 226; Fitting Problems Caused by Variations in Posture
or Bone Structure, Table 42, page 227; Fitting Problems
Caused by Variations in Distribution of Flesh or Bone
Structure, Table 45. page 228.

Figure variations were considered as unusual size to

size relationships from one part of the body to another.

 

lBishop, Dr. Thelma. Oral communication.

218
When grouped on this basis, fitting problems were caused by

uncommon relationships of bone structure to circumference.
length to length, width to width. and circumference to
circumference. Since no two figures were exactly alike.
the number of possible combinations of these unusual
relationships was limitless. This accounts for the
impossibility of having a Specific formula for all pattern
alterations. Each combination brought new problems and a
need for different methods of alteration.

Pattern sizes for the girls fitted in this survey were
selected primarily for fit of the bone structure at the base
of neck, over the shoulders. and across the back at the scye
line. When the figure had a small bone structure in relation
to circumference measurements, a compromise was sometimes
made between fitting the bone structure and the circumference.

The figure variations that caused the most frequent
fitting problems are listed in Table 44, page 229. This
reveals that when patterns were selected to fit the bone
structure, 79.3 percent of the figures had a larger bust
circumference than the standard measurement used by the
pattern companies. Table 45, page 250,.shows that 60.4
percent required more darting for the bust, and 18.9 per-

cent needed additional width at the bustline.

219

The high percentage of girls having a larger bust
circumferencez than that allowed by the pattern companies
might lead the reader to the conclusion that it would have
been better to select pattern sizes according to the bust
circumference. However, critical analysis showed that if
patterns had been chosen on the basis of bust circumference.
they would have presented the following fitting problems:
excess width through the shoulders and across the back
causing the pattern to fall off the shoulder and over the
arm. circumference too large at the base of neck and waist-
line, excess fullness at the underarm area, armholes too
loose, excess length and width in the sleeves. This indicates
that it was preferable to buy patterns according to the bone
structure and make the necessary alterations to fit a larger
bust circumference when more darting or width was needed.

Observation of the standard body measurements for
dress patterns in Table 2, page 4, shows that the bust and
hip circumferences increase two inches from one size to the
next largest. Table 4, page 24, reveals that the maximum
amount of increase was three-fourths inch (three-eighths

inch spread at each bust point) on blouses altered to

 

2This tendency toward larger than average bust
circumferences was undoubtedly due to the current fashion
of extreme uplift brassieres.

220
correct tightness at the bustline. Table 38, page 76,
shows that seventy-five percent of the skirts altered to
increase width at the hips were spread one inch or less
(one-half inch over each hip) at the hip level. Only one
skirt pattern was increased two inches at the hip level or
the equivalent of a complete size. It is interesting to
note that this same pattern3 was also increased three-fourths
inch at the bustline, but no alterations were made to fit
the bone structure.

This comparison indicates that the amount of spread
required at the bustline or hip level was generally less
than the amount of increase from one size to the next
largest. Consequently, buying a larger size pattern would
not have solved the fitting problem.

Prominent shoulder blades necessitated increased darting
in 47.2 percent of the patterns fitted, and wider than
average backs required more width across the shoulder blades
for 26.5 percent of the figures. Leaning back from the waist
caused 22.6 percent of the patterns to have excess length
removed at the center back between the scye line and waistline.

Tables 44 and 45 also show that a larger hip circumference
than that allowed by the pattern was responsible for alterations

5Pattern 39, alteration A, page 182, and alteration
D, page 183.

221

in 27.5 percent of the skirt backs. Of these, 18.2 percent
of the skirts needed increased width at the hip level and

9.l percent required more flare below the hips. In the skirt
fronts, heavy thighs made it necessary to increase the width
in 22.7 percent of the patterns. A pronounced, high curve

at the side hip caused 24.5 percent of the skirts to swing
outward at the side seam. The same percentage of skirts had
side seams that swung forward due to the figure leaning back
from the hips.

Analysis of the pattern alterations showed that only
7.6 percent of the figures fitted required a combination
of more width at the bustline and more width across the
shoulder blades. Further examination revealed that 5.7 per-
cent needed the combination of additional width at the bust-
line and at the hip level. These low percentages are
evidence that there is little correlation between a prominent
bust and a back wide across the shoulder blades, and even
less correlation between a large bust circumference and a
large hip circumference.

Even though patterns were selected primarily to fit the
bone structure, some of the fitting problems that occurred
seemed to indicate that the pattern was either too large or
too small for the bone structure in a certain area. These

fitting problems, the figure variations that caused them,

222

and their frequency are summarized in Table 47, page 251,
and Table 48, page 282. It appears probable that tightness
over the shoulder blades may have been due to faulty posture
more often than to a variation in bone structure. However,
this could not be verified without a complete history of
each girl‘s physical development. Similarly, inadequate or
excess width in the side front or side back may have been
caused by a variation from the average in distribution of
flesh instead of a variation in bone structure. Consequently,
it seems evident that only a few of the fitting problems
encountered can be directly traced to variations in bone
structure.

Table 49, page 255, gives a comparison of the increased
and decreased measurement in length, width or circumference.
It is significant that no patterns were increased in width
through the shoulder seam. This indicates that pattern sizes
were not selected too small for the bone structure.

Since all of the fifty-three girls fitted in this study
required some changes in their blouse or dress patterns, it
seems apparent that a knowledge of pattern fitting and
alteration would be invaluable to any individual Who

appreciates the beauty of a perfectly fitted garment.

223

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225

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233

TABLE 49

COMPARISON OF INCREASED AND DECREASED MEASUREMENTS
FOR SPECIFIC AREAS

‘ l __—-

Percent Percent
Increased Decreased

 

Bust circumference 18.9 5.?
Hip circumference 18.2
Thigh circumference 22.7
Back width at shoulder blade 26.5
Back width at scye line 5.8
Shoulder width 11.3
Side back width ll.5 9.4
Side front width 9.4 5.8
Width at front neckline 5.8
Sleeve width 1.9 5.8
Front scye length 1.9 1.9
Back scye length 11.5
C.F. length between scye line and waist 7.6
C.B. length between scye line and waist 22.6
C.B. length between hip level and waist 24.5
Side length between hip level and waist 24.5
Length along basic neckline 9.4

Sleeve length 7.7 7.7

 

234
BIBLIOGRAPHY

Books

Hillhouse, M.S. and E.A. Mansfield. ‘Qress DesignLADraping
and Flat Pattern Makigg, Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston,
1948.

Latzke, A. and B. Quinlan. Clothing, J.B. Lippincott Co.,
Chicago, 1940.

Mansfield, Evelyn A. Clothing Construction, Houghton Mifflin
COO ’ BOStOD, 19550

Bulletins

Dress Patterns, Commercial Standard 0815-44, U.S. Department
of Commerce, National Bureau of Standards, 1944.

Fitti Coats and Suits, U.S. Department of Agriculture,
Bureau of Human Nutrition and Home Economics, Home
and Garden Bulletin No. 11, 1952.

Fitting Dresses, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Bureau of
Human Nutrition and Home Economics, Farmers' Bulletin
No. 1964, 1946.

Pattern Alteration, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Bureau
of Human Nutrition and Home Economics, Farmers' Bulletin
No. 1968, 1950.

Proyosed Commercial Standard TS-5200, U.S. Department of
Commerce, Office of Industry and Commerce, 1952.

'Women's Measurements for Garment and Pattgrn Constructign,
U.S. Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Home Economics,
Miscellaneous Publication No. 454, l94l.

Oral Communication

Bishop, Dr. Thelma, Associate Professor of Physical Education,
Health, and Recreation for Women, Michigan State College.

255

Theses

Bebermeyer, Blanche P. How to Fit a Pattern Through the
Use of Visual Aids. Unpublished M.A. thesis, University
of Missouri, 1949.

Lucas, Laura: Louise. A Study of Sizing and Grading of
Misses Dres§_Patt§rn§. ”Unpublished M.A. thesis, Womans'

College, University of North Carolina, 1950.
Ryan, margaret Ann. AComparison of the Fittigg Quality

of Dresses Made from Six Commercial Patterns.
Unpublished M.A. thesis, Pennsylvania State College,
1946.

APPENDIX

237
LETTER USED IN SURVEY OF RELATED STUDIES

Dear 5

As a graduate student in Textiles, Clothing and
Related Arts, I am considering a thesis problem in the
area of pattern.fitting and alteration. Information is
needed concerning previous studies in order to avoid
duplication. Your reply to the enclosed questionnaire
would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for your cooperation.

Sincerely yours,

Maryalice Glenn
(Mrs. William B. Glenn)

238

QUESTIONNAIRE USED IN SURVEY OF RELATED STUDIES

Have any theses been written in your department since 1942
in the area of pattern.fitting and alteration? If so, may
I have the following information?

(a) Title of thesis:

(b) Name of author:

(c) Date of publication:

(d) Can this thesis be borrowed through our library?

(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)

(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

Name:

College or University:
Address:

 

 

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