THE EPICUREAN. TABLE SERVICE an illustration of a Dining Table Nicely Set up with Different Kinds of Utensils used for Eating. Table is also decorated with Candles and Flowers set up in beautiful Candle Holders and Vases. An illustration of a Fancy Wooden Structure with Abstract Carvings, Wrapped around the Name of the Book and the Name of the Author. Attached to the Wooden Structure is a Picture of a Huge Building. Besides these, a Dining Room, a Kitchen Room and Various Animals sitting in the Woods are also Visible in the illustration. Epicurean BY CHARLES RANHOFER DELMONICO'S THE EPICUREAN A COMPLETE TREATISE OF ANALYTICAL AND PRACTICAL STUDIES ON THE CULINARY ART INCLUDING Table and Wine Service, How to Prepare and Cook Dishes, an Index for Marketing, a Great Variety of Bills of Fare for Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Suppers, Ambigus, Buffets, etc., and a Selection of Interesting Bills of Fare of Delmonico's, from 1862 to 1894. MAKING A FRANCO-AMERICAN CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA BY CHARLES RANHOFER, CHEF OF DELMONICOS' MADISON SQUARE. Honorary President of the "Société Culinaire Philanthropique" of New York, ILLUSTRATED WITH 800 PLATES. NEW YORK: CHARLES RANHOFER, PUBLISHER, 682 WEST END AVENUE. 1894. Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1893, BY CHARLES RANHOFER. In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C. Charles D. Sibley, Printer, 10-12 Vandewater Street. PREFACE. IN PUBLISHING this work I have endeavored to fill a much needed want, viz: -the best and most effectual manner of preparing healthy and nutritious food. This edition contains innumerable recipes which I have simplified and explained in a comprehensive manner so as to meet the wants of all. It suggests, also, many useful and important hints to those about entering the profession. The book is illustrated and contains instructions how to prepare, garnish and serve according to the traditional rules of our most able predecessors, and now followed by the principal chefs of France and the United States. In some instances, where it was deemed necessary to differ from the standard rules and methods in order to cater to the various tastes, changes have been made. The book is divided into twenty-four chapters: Table Service, Bills of Fare, Supplies, Elementary Methods, Soups, Stocks, Hot and Cold Sauces, Garnishings, Hot and Cold Side Dishes, Shell Fish, Crustaceans, Fish, Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, Game, Miscellaneous Entrées, Cold Dishes, Vegetables, Cereals, Hot and Cold Desserts, Pastry, Bakery, Confectionery, Ices, Fruit, Wines and Preserves. Not relying solely on my experience and knowledge, I have quoted from the most illustrious modern author, my much beloved friend and colleague, Urbain Dubois, ex-chef at the Court of Germany, and it gives me sincere pleasure to thank him for his generous assistance. The profession will acknowledge its indebtedness to the Messrs. Delmonico for the interest shown by them in developing the gastronomic art in this country. Many will recall the business receptions given to distinguished guests under the supervision and direction of Delmonico. Mention may be made of the following dinners: to President U. S. Grant, to President A. Johnson, to the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, to Gen. Prim, to Charles Dickens, to Sir Morton Peto, to Aug. Belmont, to Giraud Foster, to Gen. Cutting, to Luckmeyer, the so-called "Black Swan Dinner," to Admiral Renaud, to Prof. Morse, to Bartholdi, to De Lesseps, to the Comte de Paris, also the ball given to the Russian Admiral and Fleet, and the Greek dinner. I have entitled this work THE EPICUREAN, and have justly dedicated it to the memory of Messrs. Delmonico, as a token of my gratitude and sincere esteem. Their world-wide reputation continues to be maintained by Mr. C. C. Delmonico. In conclusion I feel that my experience will be useful to those seeking information in the gastronomic art. Hoping the public will appreciate my efforts, I remain respectfully, CHARLES RANHOFER. BEAVER & SOUTH WM STS 22 BROAD STREET MADISON SQUARE. ESTABLISHED 1827. Delmonico's Office Beaver & South Wm Sts Following is a Handwritten Inscription except the Parts in Italics. New York, Feb'y 24th 189 3 Chef Charles Ranhofer Esq. Dear Sir: In my opinion after looking over your mms{unclear} it is{unclear} very worthy of the reputation you have in my estimation for editing a work of this character, and it is with much pleasure I recommend it to the attention of those to whom it is most directly addressed, A perusal will I think give one an appetite - Yours truly Charles Delmonico - Due to a very large size, the book has been divided into two different parts. All the recipes, after recipe # 1820 are included in the second part of the book and have not been linked here. Please see the second part of the book for those recipes. CONTENTS. NUMBERS. PAGE. TABLE SERVICE AND BILLS OF FARE, . . . 1 ELEMENTARY METHODS AND UTENSILS, . . . 1- 182 169 SOUPS, . . . . . 183- 384 239 SAUCES, . . . . . 385- 635 288 GARNISHINGS, . . . . 636- 770 331 COLD SIDE DISHES, . . . 771- 835 355 HOT SIDE DISHES, . . . 836- 993 368 MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS, . . . 994-1093 401 FISH, . . . . 1094-1312 427 BEEF, . . . . 1313-1478 471 VEAL, . . . . 1479-1584 507 MUTTON, . . . . 1585-1660 531 LAMB, . . . . 1661-1770 547 PORK, . . . 1771-1820 569 POULTRY, . . . 1821-2045 583 GAME, . . . . 2046-2209 637 MISCELLANEOUS ENTRÉES, . . 2210-2408 675 COLD SERVICE, . . . . 2409-2676 723 VEGETABLES, . . . . 2677-2849 815 EGGS, . . . . 2850-2951 847 FARINACEOUS, . . . 2952-2989 865 HOT SWEET ENTREMETS, . . . 2990-3124 873 COLD SWEET ENTREMETS, . . 3125-3224 907 PASTRY, . . . . . 3225-3404 931 BAKERY, . . . . 3405-3424 969 ICES, . . . . 3424-3613 977 CONFECTIONERY, . . . 3614-3704 1029 WINES, . . . . 3705-3715 1061 LAST CENTURY TABLES, . . 1068 DELMONICO'S MENUS FROM 1861 TO 1894, . 1073 INDEX, . . . . 1139 TABLE SERVICE. PAGE. BREAKFASTS, . . . . 13 -- Bills of Fare, . . . 13 DINNERS, American Service (Plate), . . 1 -- American Service, Bills of Fare, . . 1 -- American Service, Reception, . . . 6 -- American Service, Table Service, . . 5 -- American Service, Wines and Cordials (Plate), . 3 -- French Service (Plate), . . . 8 -- French Service, Necessary Material, . . . 9 -- French Service, To Set the Table, . . . 9 -- Russian Service (Plate), . . . . 10 LUNCHEONS, . . . . . 13 MODEL MARKET LIST, . . . . 21 SUPPERS, Ambigu, . . . . . 12 -- Buffet, . . . . 11 SUPPLIES, . . . . . 14 BILLS OF FARE (Plate), . . . . 24 -- Ambigu, . . . . 147 -- Ambigu Picnic, . . . . 145 -- Breakfasts (Plate), . . . . 24 -- Buffet -Large, . . . . 155 -- Buffet Suppers, . . . . 149 -- Dancing Party, . . . . 139 -- Delmonico's, from 1862 to 1894, . . 1073 -- Dinners, . . . . 58 -- Garden party, . . . . 146 -- Invalids, . . . . 42 -- Lunches, . . . . 43 -- Restaurant Breakfast, . . . 164 -- Restaurant Dinner, . . . 166 -- Restaurant Lunch, . . . . 165 -- Restaurant Supper, . . . 167 -- Suppers, . . . . 140 -- Suppers, Sideboard, . . . . 142 -- Suppers, Sideboard, English, . . . 148 -- Suppers, Sideboard, Large, . . . . 161 -- Suppers, Small, . . . . . 151 DESIGNS FOR TABLES IN THE LAST CENTURY, . . 1070 THE EPICUREAN. TABLE SERVICE, AMERICAN, FRENCH, RUSSIAN -FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER, SUPPER, COLLATION OR AMBIGU. An illustration of the upper portion of a Dining Table nicely arranged with Different Kitchen Utensils, Candle holders and other items of Decoration. DINNER SERVICE -AMERICAN STYLE -AND BILL OF FARE (Dinner Service à l'Américaine et le Menu). The success of a dinner depends upon good cooking, the manner in which it is served, and especially on entertaining congenial guests. The American service is copied more or less from the French and Russian, and remodeled to the tastes and customs of this country; as it varies somewhat from all others, a few instructions may be found useful to those desirous of learning the difference existing between them. THE BILL OF FARE (MENU). Menus are made for breakfasts, luncheons and suppers, but the most important one is for the dinner; these menus are generally composed a few days in advance to enable the necessary provisions to be purchased, so that on the day of the dinner, there has been ample time to prepare everything necessary, consequently much confusion is avoided and the work better done. In carrying out the order the menu should be strictly followed, in fact, it must be an obligatory rule to do so. Making out the bill of fare is the duty of the head cook, who composes and writes them according to the latitude he enjoys and the resources he has at hand. BILLS OF FARE FOR DINNER. Should the menu be intended for a dinner including ladies, it must be composed of light, fancy dishes with a pretty dessert; if, on the contrary, it is intended for gentlemen alone, then it must be shorter and more substantial. If the dinner be given in honor of any distinguished foreign guest, then a place must be allowed on the menu to include a dish or several dishes of his own nationality; avoid repeating the same names in the same menu. Let the gravies be of different colors, one following the other. Also vary the color of the meats as far as possible, from one course to the other. Offer on the menus all foods in their respective seasons, and let the early products be of the finest quality (consult a general market list to find the seasonable produce), and only use preserved articles when no others can be obtained. If the menus are hand written they must be very legible. Menus are indispensable for service à l'Américaine; there should be one for each guest, for as no dish served from the kitchen appears on the table, every one must be informed beforehand of what the dinner is composed, and those dishes that are to follow each other. Menus must be both simple and elegant, and of a size to allow them to be easily placed in the pocket without folding, as it is the general desire to keep the bill of fare of a dinner at which one has assisted. A few important observations necessary to bills of fare and their classification are here given: OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL. Oysters appear on the menu the same as in the Russian service on French bills of fare they do not mention them. Suppress oysters in every month not containing the letter R, such as: May, June, July and August, and serve Little Neck clams instead. SOUPS. Soups are served after the oysters. One clear and one thick soup should be selected but if only one is needed, give the preference to the clear soup. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, SIDE OR LIGHT DISHES. Hot hors-d'œuvre are, generally, timbales, croustades, cromesquis, palmettes, mousselines, bouchées, cannelons, cassolettes, rissoles, etc. With the same course serve cold side dishes, such as olives, radishes, canapés, caviare, pickled tunny, anchovies, etc. In the French service, the fish and the solid joints come under the head of relevés or removes. In the American and English service, first comes the fish, then the removes. FISH. If the fish be boiled or braized, add potatoes to the menu; if broiled or sautéd, some cucumber salad; and, if fried, serve plain or with a light sauce. REMOVES OR RELEVÉS. The relevés or solid joints are composed of saddles, either of veal, mutton, lamb, venison and antelope, or else beef tenderloins or middle short loins. Turkey, goose, capon, pullets, ducks, etc., may be served, accompanied by one or two vegetables. ENTRÉES. Place on the bill of fare first the heaviest entrée, and conclude with the lightest; they must be previously cut up so as to avoid carving. No fish figures in the American service as an entrée, but terrapin or crabs may be allowed; also lobsters, shrimps, frogs, croquettes, etc. Each entrée should be accompanied by a vegetable, served separately, except when it is one of those described above, such as terrapin, etc. PUNCH OR SHERBETS. A punch or sherbet is always served after the entrées and before the roast; do not make an extra heading on the menu for these, only placing them on a line by themselves, for instance: Roman punch or American sherbet. ROASTS. Roasts are served after the sherbet; a game roast is usually preferred, but poultry, either truffled or not, may be substituted: such as turkey, capon, pullet, duck, guinea-fowl, squabs, etc.; also roasted butcher's meat; but game is usually considered to be more choice. COLD DISHES. Cold dishes come after the roast, and before the hot dessert; they are served with green salads; terrines of foies-gras and boned turkey are also served as a second roast. (In the French service these cold dishes are classified as the last entrée.) HOT SWEET DISHES OR ENTREMETS. These appear after the roast; they are composed of puddings, crusts, fried creams, fritters, pancakes, borders, omelets, and soufflées, and form a separate course by themselves. COLD SWEET DISHES OR ENTREMETS. The cold sweet entremets come after the hot and are composed of jellies, bavarois, creams, blanc-manges, macédoines, charlottes and large cakes, and form another course. DESSERT. After the cold entremets come the dessert, composed of cheese, fresh fruits, preserved fruits, cakes, jams, dried fruits, candied fruits, bonbons, mottoes, papillotes, victorias, pyramids, frozen puddings, plombières, ices, ice cream and small fancy cakes, then the coffee and cordials. An illustration of a Large Tray nicely arranged with Goblets, Flasks, and other Fancy Containers for Wines. SERVICE OF WINES AND CORDIALS (Service des Vins et Liqueurs). The steward must inform and specify to the butler the wine to be served at each separate course. However, important the dinner may be, still decanters of ordinary red and white wine must be placed on the table. The selection of the finer wines is the host's duty, he making his choice when ordering the bill of fare. The steward's duty is to see that the wines are served at a proper temperature. All white wines must be served cold. Sherry and Xeres cool. Bordeaux between 52 and 60 degrees, Fahrenheit, according to its growth. Burgundy between 42 and 45 degrees. Champagnes, cold or iced, or in sherbets. Dessert wines cool. For choosing wines consult the table on wines of Delmonico's cellar. (No. 3709.) Russian Sideboards. -Absinthe, Vermuth Bitters, Kümmel, Mineral Waters, including Apollinaris, Clysmic, St. Galmier and Vichy. FIRST SERVICE. With Oysters. -Sauterne, Barsac, Graves, Mont Rachet, Chablis. After the Soup. -Madeira, Sherry or Xeres. With Fish. -(Rhine wines) Johannisberger, Marcobrunner, Hochheimer, Laubenheimer, Liebfraumilch, Steinberger. (Moselle) Brauneberger, Zeltinger, Berncasteler. With Removes. -Côte St. Jacques, Moulin-à-vent, Macon, Clos de Vougeôt, Beaune. With Entrées. -St. Émilion, Médoc du Bordelais, St. Julien. Dry champagnes for certain countries. Iced Punches and Sherbets, Rum, Madeira. SECOND SERVICE. With Roasts. -(Burgundies) Pommard, Nuits, Corton, Chambertin, Romanée Conti. Cold Roasts. -Vin de Paille, Steinberger. With Hot Desserts. -(Bordeaux) Château Margaux, Léoville, Laffitte, Château Larose, Pontet-Canet, St. Pierre, Côtes de Rhone, Hermîtage and Côte-Rôtie. (Red Champagne) Bouzy, Verzenay, Porto Première. THIRD SERVICE. With Dessert. -(Burgundy) Volnay, Mousseux. (Champagnes) Delmonico, Roederer, Rosé Mousseux, Pommery, Cliquot, Perrier-Jonët, Moët, Mumm. Wine Liquors. -Muscatel, Malaga, Alicante, Malvoisie of Madeira, Lacryma Christi, red and white Cape, Tokay, Constance, Schiraz. Cordials. -Curaçoa, Kirsch, Cognac, Chartreuse, Maraschino, Prunelle, Anisette, Bénédictine. Beers. -Bass' Ales, Porter, Tivoli, Milwaukee. WINES AND LIQUORS USUALLY CALLED FOR (Vins et Liqueurs Généralement Servis). A DINNER OF AMERICANS. RECEPTION-ROOM. Sherry, Bitters, Cocktails. DINNER WINES. Haut Sauterne, Amontillado, Sherry, Barsac, Pontet-Canet, Perrier-Jouet Brut, Liquors. A DINNER OF FRENCHMEN. RECEPTION-ROOM. Sherry and Bitters, Vermuth, Absinthe. DINNER WINES. Graves, Xeres, Lafaurie, St. Pierre, Yellow Cliquot, Beaujolais, Liquors. A DINNER OF GERMANS. No wines or mineral-waters in the reception-room. DINNER WINES. Niersteiner, Sherry, Hochheimer, St. Estèphe, Pommery Sec, Beaune, Liquors. American service, like the Russian, must be served quickly and hot. As easily understood by the following card, a dinner of ten minute intervals can be served with fourteen courses in two hours and twenty minutes and if at eight minute intervals, in one hour and fifty-two minutes, the same as an eight course dinner of ten minute intervals will take one hour and twenty minutes, so at eight minute intervals it will take one hour and four minutes. Figure 1 -36 covers. 10 minutes. 2 hours 20 8 minutes. 1 hour 51. 1 Oysters. 2 2 Soups. 3 S. D. hot and cold. 4 2 Fish, potatoes. 5 1 Remove, vegetables. 6 1 Entrée, vegetables. 7 1 Entrée, vegetables. 8 1 Entrée, vegetables. 9 1 Punch. 10 1 or 2 Roasts. 11 1 or 2 Colds, salad. 12 1 Hot sweet dessert. 13 1 or 2 Cold sweet des'rts 14 {1 or 2 Ices. {Dessert. Figure 2 -24 covers. 10 minutes. 2 hours 10. 8 minutes. 1 hour 44. Oysters. 2 Soups. S. D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. ................... 1 Punch. 1 Roast. 1 Cold salad. 1 Hot sweet dessert. 2 Cold sweet desserts. {2 Ices. {Dessert. Figure 3 -16 covers. 10 minutes. 2 hours. - 8 minutes. 1 hour 36. Oysters. 2 Soups. S D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. ................... 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. ................... 1 Hot sweet dessert. 2 Cold sweet desserts. {2 Ices. {Dessert. Figure 4 -12 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour 50. 8 minutes. 1 hour 28. Oysters. 2 Soups. S. D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. 1 Entrée, vegetables. ................... 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. ................... 1 Hot dessert. ................... {1 Ice. {Dessert. Figure 5 -10 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour 42. 8 minutes. 1 hour 20. 1 Oysters. 2 2 Soups. 3 S. D. hot and cold. 4 1 Fish, potatoes. 5 1 Remove, veg'bles. 6 1 Entrée, veg'bles. 7 ................... 8 ................... 9 1 Punch. 10 1 Roast, salad. 11 ................... 12 1 Hot sweet dess'rt. 13 ................... 14 {1 Ice. {Dessert. Figure 6 -8 covers. 16 minutes. 1 hour 30. 8 minutes. 1 hour 12. Oysters. 2 Soups. ................... 1 Fish, potatoes. ................... 1 Entrée, veg'bles. 1 Entrée, veg'bles. ................... 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. ................... 1 Hot sweet dess'rt. ................... {1 Ice. {Dessert. Figure 7 -6 covers. 16 minutes. 1 hour 20. 8 minutes. 1 hour 10. Oysters. 1 Soup. ................... 1 Fish, potatoes. ................... 1 Entrée, veg'bles. ................... ................... 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. ................... 1 Hot sweet dess'rt. ................... {1 Ice. {Dessert. Figure 8 -4 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour 10. 8 minutes. 56. Oysters. 1 Soup. ................... 1 Fish, potatoes. ................... 1 Entrée, veg'bles. ................... ................... 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. ................... ................... ................... {1 Ice. {Dessert. Figure 9 -4 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour. 8 minutes. 48. Oysters. 1 Soup. ................... 1 Fish, potatoes. ................... 2 Entrée, veg'bles. ................... ................... ................... 1 Roast, salad. ................... ................... ................... ................... Dessert. THE DINNER TABLE, RECEPTION TABLE SERVICE AND WINES. (Le Couvert, Réception, Service de Table et les Vins.) TABLE SERVICE FOR TWENTY-FOUR PERSONS. An oblong shaped table is preferable for a large dinner party, the feet being less incommodious; it must at least be six or seven feet wide and twenty-two feet long, with rounded ends. This shaped table is most generally used, although some prefer round, or horse-shoe ones, or an oblong with square ends, and many other fanciful shapes, depending entirely on the size of the room and the taste of the host. Tables can be lengthened according to the number of seats desired; the space allowed for each guest is, for a square, table with square ends, two feet apart between each plate; when the ends are curved, the space for the corners must be twenty-two inches apart, and if entirely round, twenty inches. Cover a table twenty-two by seven with a felt cover made for the purpose, then over this lay a tablecloth twenty-four feet long and eight or nine feet wide, being careful that it is exceedingly white and smooth, having no creases whatever. Fold a well starched, large napkin, pinch it triangularly, and place it in the center of the table; have twenty-four smaller napkins also well starched, folded and pinched, and place these at the edge of the table and on each one set a plate with another napkin on top, folded either shaped as a boat, a tulip, or any other pretty design, or else the napkin may be simply folded square. The bread is placed either under the folds or in the center of the napkin, according to the manner in which it is displayed, or on a small plate to the left of the cover. Another way is to place the bread in front of the napkin. On the left of each plate, lay a table fork and also a fish fork. On the right set a table knife, a silver fish knife, a soup spoon, also a small fork for oysters or Little Neck clams In front, but slightly toward the right of each plate, set a small individual salt-cellar. The double silver pepper castors containing black and red pepper are distributed two on each side, and two at each end of the table, with eight single ones between the double ones. Glasses are placed in a semi-circle either in front of the plate or else on the right; arrange these according to the courses to be served. First, water glass; second, white wine; third, sherry; fourth, Rhine wine; fifth, champagne; and sixth, Bordeaux. Before serving the entrées remove the white wine, Sherry and Rhine wine glasses and replace them by fine Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses. Glasses intended for dessert wines and liquors, are only put on the table with the dessert. THE CENTER LINE OF THE TABLE. In the center of the table have a large piece of silverware decorated with plants, ferns and natural flowers, or else a high vase or simply a basket of flowers. These baskets or other decorations may be filled with one, or several kinds of variegated flowers, mingling red and white, scarlet and lilac, or Parma violets, or tulips and orchids, these produce a brilliant effect. (The entire house, staircases, halls, etc., may also be decorated with plants, palms, lemon and orange trees, or rubber plants. Mantels and mirrors to be also wreathed with flowers, or else scattered about in clusters, and have hanging baskets tastefully arranged in prominent corners, so as to add to the general beautiful effect.) On each side of the center piece and on the center line have two prettily arranged baskets containing seasonable or hot-house fruits; on each side of these, set an ornamental piece, either made of nougat, gum-paste or sugar candy, or should these high pieces not be desirable, others may be substituted either of bronze, or else stands covered with flowers, etc. On each end of these pieces set either candelabras or lamps, and beyond these high stands of graduated tiers filled with bonbons, cornucopias, Victorias, bonbon boxes, etc., all of them forming the center line of the table. Around this line, and at about twenty to twenty-four inches from the edge, draw a line the same shape as the table, and on this place decanter stands for decantered wine; two for sherry, four for white wine, and four for red Bordeaux, making ten in all, and the same quantity of decanter stands for decanters containing water, or instead of ten, twenty-four smaller ones may be substituted, one for each person. Place at intervening spaces, two compote dishes with stewed fruits, four stands for small fancy cakes, two compote dishes for candied or dried fruits, nuts, etc., or else fresh strawberries, raspberries or mulberries, if in season, a saucerful for each person, and finish by interlacing through these dishes as well as the decanters, strings of smilax or any other pretty creeping vine, following around about twenty-four inches from the edge of the table; set into this verdure at various parts, clusters of natural flowers. A table arranged according to this description will be found to have a most charming and pleasing effect. The diagram of the table should be obtained, and have the names of each guest tastefully written on fancy cards; lay one of these on the right hand glass of each person, in a prominent manner so that it can be read from a distance which will greatly facilitate the seating of the guests. Procure bouquets of flowers for the ladies, set in fancy vases, tying them with ribbons, and having a pin attached to enable them to fasten them on to their dresses; gentlemen's button-hole bouquets should also be placed in vases. All these flowers must be in front, but slightly toward the left of each person. The bills of fare or menus should be placed on the left side, either in silver stands (Fig. 197), or set beside the plate. The host should always be seated so as to face the door leading into the dining-room. The hostess on the other end of the table directly opposite, their respective seats being at the top and bottom of the table. The seat of honor for a lady is on the right hand of the host, and naturally on the right hand of the hostess for a gentleman. The left hand may also be utilized as seats of honor but of minor importance. A dining room should be kept at a comfortable temperature. The sideboard should be placed at one side of the table, and on this or in the drawers and compartments everything must be arranged in thorough order so as to have them handy, thus avoiding all confusion during dinner. The entire dessert service including wines to be arranged tastefully on the sideboard, giving a very pretty effect to the room. A service table must either be in the dining-room behind a screen or in a pantry close by; it must contain one or several carving boards, sundry knives and forks, ladles, chafing dishes, etc. The service must be rapid and the dishes served hot; avoid having anything cooked in advance except the large pieces. Entrées and all smaller dishes should be prepared according to their successive order, as the dinner progresses, at an interval of two or three courses, which means about ten or twenty minutes apart. A good steward can always manage to protract the dinner in case the cook is behind time, but it is his duty to inform those in the kitchen at least ten minutes beforehand so as to prevent any possible delay; he must also have a duplicate bill of fare from the kitchen identical with the one on the table, and classified according to the service, so as to be able to consult it in order to know exactly which dish follows the other. When the dinner is ready, the steward must place his help in their respective positions, and give them final instructions regarding their duties; they should be attired in dress suits, white ties and gloves, and wear no jewelry whatever. In order to serve a ceremonial dinner for twenty-four persons, it will require: a steward, a butler, a carver and six waiters; carefully intrusting the care of the wines to the most intelligent, and the carving to the most expert; the remaining six being for the special table service, they must remain in their respective places to be at the call of the guests should their services be required. RECEPTION. The gentlemen are to be received by a waiter, who before introducing them into the reception room, takes their overcoats, canes, hats, umbrellas, etc., leaving these articles in a place set aside for this purpose, near the reception room, then hands each gentleman an envelope addressed to himself in which there will be found a card bearing the name of the lady he is to escort to the dining-room, and who is to be seated on his right hand during dinner. Two other waiters attired in full dress, introduce the gentlemen into the reception room adjoining the dining-room, the doors to the latter being closed; in the reception room there should be a small Russian buffet, or simply serve some sherry, Xeres, bitters, vermuth and absinthe, to be handed round on trays to each guest as he arrives. It is absolutely necessary to have a lady's maid to receive the ladies, lay aside their outer garments, or any article they may desire to confide to her care; these must be arranged in such a manner as to be easily returned to their respective owners. The maid must remain and wait, in order to be continually at the disposal of the lady guests. When all the invited guests have arrived and been duly introduced, the dinner hour having struck, the steward opens the dining-room doors, bows to the host, this being the signal to announce that dinner is served. The hostess enters the dining-room first, on the arm of the gentleman in whose honor the dinner is given, followed by the other guests, the host being last. Each one sits down at the seats indicated on the cards, and when all are comfortably seated the dinner begins. The service must be performed silently, a look alone from the steward sufficing for each man to do his duty. Every article handed round must be on a silver salver. THE SERVICE. Oysters. -Little Neck clams are passed around, beginning on one side by the lady on the right and the other side by the gentleman on the right, these being the most distinguished guests; change this method at each course, those being served last before, being the first now. The butler will pour out the Chablis, stating the name of each wine he serves. Soup. -There are usually two soups to select from. While serving green turtle offer at the same time lemon cut in quarters. Sherry should be served with this course. Side Dishes. -Pass hot hors-d'œuvre; these are served on warm plates. Serve the cold hors d'œuvre at the same time, and should the guest prefer the latter, remove the hot plate at once and substitute a cold one for it. Sherry or Xeres should accompany this course. Fish. -If there be two kinds of fish, offer the selection, and pass round the one preferred; should it be boiled or braized fish, have potatoes served at the same time; if broiled or sautéd thinly sliced seasoned fresh cucumbers must accompany it, and if fried fish such as whitebait, serve with thin slices of buttered brown bread and quarters of lemon. Serve Rhine wine or white Bordeaux. Removes or Solid Joints. -The removes may be placed on the table before being taken off for carving; if it be a saddle of venison, it should be cooked rare, passing currant jelly at the same time. A saddle of mutton must also be rare and very hot; it can be cut lengthwise at an angle in thin slices or across, although the first way is preferable; serve both these on very hot plates, and have one or two vegetables accompanying them. Serve champagne. Entrées. -The entrées must be served one after the other without placing them on the table beforehand; they must be served on hot plates with one vegetable for each entree, to be either passed round separately or else carefully laid on the same plate, unless it is desired that they be dressed; in this case dress and present to each guest. Serve Bordeaux at the first entrée, and an extra quality of wine at the last; continue serving champagne to those who prefer to drink it until the roast. INTERVAL. -SECOND SERVICE. Iced Punch or Sherbet. -Should there be no ladies present, cigarettes can be handed round at the same time. Remove the two white wine and sherry glasses, and replace them by those used for Burgundy, also remove the cold side dishes. Ten to fifteen minutes must now be allowed between the courses. Roasts. -The roast may be displayed on the table before carving, this being frequently requested by epicures; should there be several roasts, carve them all at the same time and pass them round according to desire, adding a little watercress for poultry, and should there be canvas-back duck, let currant jelly and fried hominy be served with also a mayonnaise of celery. Serve the Burgundy from bottles laid flat in baskets (Fig. 774.) holding the basket in the right hand and a white napkin in the left. Cold. -Serve the cold dishes after the roast, these to be either goose livers (foies-gras) with truffles or boned turkey. The foies-gras must have a spoon to remove it with, and the boned turkey be cut into thin slices, and offer both to the guest at the same time, accompanied by green salads. Serve Johannisberg or Vin de Paille. Now remove everything from the table with the exception of the dessert, and to avoid using a brush lift up the extra napkins in front of each person, folding them in two so that the table is neat and clean without being obliged to use a brush or scraper. Lay the dessert plates on the table, and continue the service for the hot dessert. Hot Sweet Entremets. -Make a distinct service for the hot entremets, then serve the cheese. Serve a fine Laffitte Bordeaux. Cold Sweet Entremets. -Make another service for the cold entremets and ices. Dessert. -Instead of serving the cheese after the hot entremets it may be done now, which is in fact its proper place; pass around the fresh fruits, stewed, candied and dried fruits, bonbon cases, bonbons, mottoes, ices, strawberries and raspberries with cream when in season, passing cakes around at the same time. Serve Madeira wine, Muscatel and Frontignan, also plates of salted almonds. THE CONCLUSION OF THE DINNER. It is now time for the hostess to bow, push back her chair and prepare to rise, this being a signal for the ladies to retire; after they have returned to the drawing-room, coffee is passed round on a salver containing spoons, hot water, sugar and cream. A few moments later another waiter comes forward with an empty tray to remove the cups the ladies hand him. The gentlemen partake of their coffee in the dining-room; at the same time serve them Kirsch, brandy, chartreuse, cigars and cigarettes. The doors are closed and the ladies and waiters have retired so as to allow the gentlemen more freedom to talk among themselves, still it will be necessary to enter the drawing room and dining-room occasionally in order to see whether anything be needed so as to avoid being called as much as possible. After half an hour or so, the gentlemen will rejoin the ladies in the drawing-room and then tea is served. The tea service is accomplished by passing around on trays, tea, sugar, hot water, cream, cups, spoons and slices of lemon. A few moments later another waiter removes the empty cups on a tray. After the tea the service is considered to be ended. An illustration of a Nicely arranged Dining Table along with Eight Dining Chairs placed around it. FRENCH SERVICE (Service à la Française). There are two different services in use: The French and the Russian. Although recognizing the priority of both of these services, it will be well to mention the difference existing between them and the English and the American service; first, they differ in the classification of the bills of fare and certain changes in the table service, these alone are sufficient to be interesting. The old style of French service threatens to disappear entirely and is rarely used, except on very rare occasions. The three services placed on the table, one after the other, had certainly the advantage of displaying the culinary labor as well as the most variegated and rare products by exhibiting them in all their profuseness. But the great inconvenience is the preparation of dishes beforehand in the kitchen in order to have each service ready at once and to keep them hot in heaters before beginning to serve the dinner. The dishes for the first course are placed on the table in chafing dishes provided with covers, to be lifted off when the guests are seated, and left on the table till ready to be carved. Of course this inconvenience is somewhat remedied by keeping the heaters and chafing dishes at a given heat, and there must be placed near the table, either behind a screen in the dining-room or else in an adjoining pantry, a bain-marie with all the necessary sauces required for the dinner, and as soon as the meats are carved, each one is to be covered with its respective sauce before being handed around. But notwithstanding all possible care and attention the entrées are apt to lose much of their finer qualities by the very act of being cooked and dressed beforehand, then kept hot in these heaters or chafing dishes. Still this could scarcely have been the sole cause for abandoning the old system, for it continued in usage for several centuries. We are, however, obliged to recognize that first-class families have ceased to make a display of the great luxuriousness indulged in, in the past; to-day they are more restrained, the help less numerous and the chief cook frequently alone with one kitchen assistant, having no longer an extra man for pastry, confectionery and ices. The chef himself must see to the preparation of the pastry, ices and desserts. There are now scarcely to be found any house where for twelve persons they employ a chef, an assistant and a pastry cook and the remainder of the help corresponding to this great amount of luxury. The bills of fare are simpler; instead of dressing and arranging the service on the table itself, many houses have a mixed service; this is made by presenting the dishes on the table, then removing them to be carved. The general desire of the day is to dine quicker; taste changes with the fashion. The old French service is fast disappearing, and as it becomes more simple it gradually evolves into a mixed Russian and French service. FRENCH SERVICE FOR 24 PERSONS (Service à la Française pour 24 Couverts). The first service is composed of hors-d'œuve (side dishes), two soups, two removes, four hot entrées, or two cold and two hot entrées. Remove the cold hors-d'œuvre; serve the punch or sherbet. The second service is composed of two roasts to take the place of the removes; four entremets, two being of vegetables, one hot sweet entremets and one cold; these to replace the entrées; two entremets cakes to take the place of the cold entrées. Prepare the table for the dessert. The third service, or dessert, is composed of two shelved stands filled with bonbons, victorias, bonbon boxes, cossacks, two low stands or drums containing small fancy cakes, two basketfuls of fresh fruits, two assorted compotes, one orange jelly, one bar-le-due jelly and two cheeses; two fancy pieces of nougat or candied sugar to replace the entremets cakes. The wines should be selected and served as indicated in another chapter, according to the taste and desire of the host. FRENCH SERVICE, DINNER FOR 24 PERSONS -TO SET THE TABLE (Service à la Française, Dîner de 24 Couverts -Le Couvert). The table must be sixteen to eighteen feet long and six to seven feet wide, with rounded corners, covered with a table-cloth and having exactly in the center a high stand or epergne, or piece of silverware or bronze, filled with flowers. Continue the middle line with candelabras or lamps; leave a place for the chafing dishes and between these arrange the cold hors-d'œuvre. Set the plates, the glasses to form a semicircle in front; the spoons and knives on the right and the forks on the left. Commence serving the most honored guest on each right side, and begin each separate service at the person served the last. All the dishes intended for the table should be dressed tastefully and the edges decorated with open-worked noodle borders; the meats laid symmetrically, the borders to be neither too high nor too much spread so that the dish covers can fit on easily; light bread borders can also be used. Decorate the meats with trimmed hatelets just before placing them on the table. NECESSARY MATERIAL FOR 24 PERSONS (Matériel Nécessaire pour 24 Couverts). Let the china, glassware, silver, cutlery and linen be as much alike as possible, have the glasses all plain or cut of the same pattern and shape; the china either all white, colored or gilt; the linen plain or damasked with large or small designs. The plates must be changed at each service as well as the knives and forks, they must be washed immediately and used again for the following services, otherwise there will be as many knives and forks needed as plates, consequently far more material. 24 soup plates. 24 side-dish plates. 72 dinner plates. 48 dessert plates. 24 soupspoons. 24 coffee after-dinner cups. 24 dessert knives and forks. 72 large forks. 72 steel knives. 24 silver or gilt knives. 24 side-dish knives and forks. 24 coffeespoons Small salt cellars and pepper casters, one for each person. 12 radish dishes for 24 persons. A glass or silver knife rester for each person. 8 silver toothpick holders. 24 wine decanters and water bottles. 2 soup tureens. 2 chafing dishes and covers for removes. 4 chafing dishes and covers for entrées. 2 chafing dishes and covers for roasts. 24 water glasses. 24 Chablis glasses. 24 Bordeaux glasses. 24 Frontignan glasses. 24 fine Bordeaux glasses. 24 Champagne glasses. 2 shelved stands. 2 silver baskets for fru its. 2 drums for fancy cakes. 2 dishes for jellies. 2 dishes for cheese. 4 compote stands. 4 dishes and covers for vegetables. 2 dishes for cold entrées. 24 sherry glasses. 24 Burgundy glasses. 24 liquor glasses. 24 Champagne flutes or goblets. 24 punch or sherbet glasses. Fine baccarat glass is the handsomest; keep in reserve glasses of all kinds in case of an accident. The oil and vinegar caster, as well as the mustard pot, are to be passed around according to necessity. An illustration of a Dining Table Set up for Six People. Around the Dining Table are Six Chairs. RUSSIAN SERVICE (Service à la Russe). The habit we have of eating everything very hot and very fast comes to us from the "Russian service;" it differs from the French service in the very fact that nothing hot appears on the table, everything is cut up as needed, either in the kitchen or pantry. The carving should be performed very neatly, having all the pieces of even size and placed at once symmetrically either in a circle or straight row on dishes for ten or less persons, then passed round to the guests, who help themselves or are helped, according to their wish. For the solid joints, removes or roasts, they can be served precisely the same, or else laid on very hot plates and handed directly to each guest. There must be a sufficiency of every kind of entrée to serve for every person present. Should there be several and a variety of roasts and only one service required, then carve a third part of each one, or more of one than the other if certain dishes seem to be preferred. If there be several removes the same course can be pursued. As soon as one course is being passed around, the following one should be brought from the kitchen so that the dinner can be served uninterruptedly and eaten while hot and palatable. The cold meat pieces may be dressed and arranged on the table the same as the candelabras, silverware, bronze vases and flower baskets, all of these to be in the center line of the table, leaving eighteen inches of space uncovered between the end of the line and the edge of the table; between this center line and the edge draw a round or oval or any other desirable shape at eighteen inches above the edge. If there be two cold meat pieces lay them on the sides of the table and in the center of the line, and if four, then two at the sides and two at the ends in the center, if eight then have four at the corners between the sides and ends on the eighteen-inch line above the edge; finish to decorate this line with cold sweet dishes, baskets of fresh fruits, shelved stands filled with bonbons, cossacks, Victorias, drums containing small fancy cakes, compoted dried fruits, etc., all these ornaments give the table a charming effect and should be arranged before the guests enter the dining-room. The straight line alone and the cold meat pieces can be also arranged, finishing at eighteen inches from the edge with garlands of leaves and flowers instead of the dessert, and when ready to serve the cold pieces, take them off and replace them by the taller desserts, shelved stands and drums, ranging the others here and there, half on either side of the table between the middle line and the flowers. Hot sweet entremets are always served as extras or "flying dishes," after the vegetables. The service is far less sumptuous and elegant than the French one, yet it pleases many and is very fashionable at the present time. The remainder of the service is exactly like the French. The old-fashioned bills of fare for the Russian service were classed differently to those of to-day; further on they will be found in great variety, appertaining to different epochs and a selection can be made of those most suitable; the service remains invariably the same, the only change being in the bill of fare. It is the custom in Russia to serve the iced punches or sherbets after the fish, but it is certainly preferable to wait until the entrées are removed. SUPPER. (Le Souper.) "To sleep easily one must sup lightly." SUPPER BUFFET. Supper buffets are dressed on tables twelve to twenty feet long by four to five feet wide; larger or smaller according to the number of guests and the richness of the bill of fare. Be careful that every article on the table shows to the best advantage, arranging each dish in a tasteful manner, yet observing certain indispensable rules so to facilitate the service that the buffet can be replenished and the dishes removed without the slightest confusion. The warm dishes should be served continuously without any delay and only a few at the time. Place a large piece of silverware in the center of the table to contain fruits, following the middle line on the length, then two large baskets of flowers and two pieces either of nougat or sugar, both ornamented with candied fruits, then two large cold-meat pieces and two stands filled with bonbon boxes, mottoes, victorias and bonbons, afterward two candelabras, and two entremets cakes to finish. In the front place a decorated salmon, behind on the other side of the center line stand the tenderloin of beef, and on each side of the fish and tenderloin, two medium-sized meat pieces, then the drums or high stands filled with small cakes. After this the small cold entrées, such as sandwiches and small rolls filled with rillettes; at each end of the table arrange the chicken and lobster salads. On one end of the table have plenty of material handy (according to the importance of the bill of fare), for hot service; have plates, soup tureens and chafing-dishes; behind, near the tenderloin of beef, put the ices, jellies and charlottes. These suppers are usually served after the first part of the dancing order is finished between eleven o'clock and one in the morning. Frequently small tables are used when there is sufficient room; these are generally reserved for the ladies. HOT DISHES. First part. -The soup is either consommé in cups, or barley cream, or rice and almond milk. These must be perfectly clear in order to serve them in cups the same as the consommé. Oysters prepared in different styles: Fricasseed, Hollandaise, Béchamel, poulette, Viennese, crawfish sauce, etc.; oysters fried or stuffed, small bouchées filled with salpicon, chicken or game croquettes, sweetbreads, lobster, etc., Timbales and mousselines; terrapin, Maryland or Newburg for white, Baltimore and Maryland Club for brown; red-head ducks and canvas-back, also quails and squabs and sometimes deviled crabs, stuffed lobsters, scallops à la Brestoise or frog croquettes. COLD DISHES. Second part. -Decorate the table with hors-d'œuvre composed of radishes, olives, celery, anchovy toasts etc. Large pieces such as a richly decorated salmon, a tenderloin of beef garnished with vegetables, boned turkey and capon, ham stuffed with pistachio nuts and truffles, a suckling pig, a boar's head, large dishes of turkey and capon, truffled or otherwise. Volières of peacock, young swans, pheasants and guinea fowls ornamented with their natural feathers, large terrines of Strasburg foies-gras, woodcock, snipe, reedbirds, quails, leverets, veal kernels and game "pains," en damier; bastions of roast game on croûtons and garnished with fresh water-cress, pyramids of lobsters and crawfish and truffles. There are a great variety of elegant entrées, and among others the following ones may be selected: Aspics of all kinds, red beef tongue, foies-gras, fillets of chickens, oysters, etc.; white and brown chaufroids of partridge and chicken, also ravigote ducks, galantines of chicken, cream of pigeons, squabs and quails covered with chaufroid and decorated with black truffles and very green pistachio nuts; smoked and unsmoked tongue well glazed and dressed pyramid form; lamb chops au vert pré, ballotines of quails and squabs, ducklings pear shaped and thrushes à la Périgord; terrines of Nérac and ducks' livers à la Toulouse and young rabbit à la mode de Rouen; pains of chicken or game. Entrées of larks and reedbirds, chicken mayonnaise; lobster, shrimp, crab and salmon salads, also salad à la Russe, and at equal distances have plates of small breads garnished with rillettes and fine sandwiches. Select from all this gastronomical wealth those dishes liable to satisfy the appetite and at the same time make a beautiful display on the table. SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERTS. Third part. -Intersperse among the cold dishes, liquor and fruit jellies, bavarois, "pains" of rice puddings, blanc-manges and charlotte russes, assorted creams and crowns, waffles filled with whipped cream, macédoines, assorted large dessert cakes, and timbales of waffles, brisselets and wheelbarrows of small méringues with flowers or fruits, horn of plenty and Sultan vases, cherry baskets, high mounted pieces of gum paste, royal icing, nougat, sugar candy, marchpane and almond paste. Fancy variegated ices, such as virgin cream and biscuit glacés, tutti-frutti, Montelimar, Neapolitan, harlequin, bombs and delicious creams with nuts; parfait with coffee and burnt almond cream, chestnut mousse and soufflés sabayon; sponge and plombière with fruits, Nesselrode puddings and fiori di latte; pineapple water ices and Favart soufflés; fresh, seasonable and hot-house fruits; compotes of fruits, small fancy cakes, Genoese cakes and others iced; bonbons, Victorias, cornucopias, Cossacks, mottoes and bonbon boxes. This third part of the menu is certainly the prettiest and most coquettish, and with these luxuries ends the selection of dishes from which an elegant table may be set. Drinks. -Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, wine punches, lemonades, grenadine and syrups of raspberry, currant or orgeat, coffee or tea. AMBIGU. A meal usually offered cold without any soup, and set on a table where removes are served at the same time, also entrées, side dishes and sweet desserts, and in which the service is blended into one, for no dishes are to be removed. Certain breakfast, hunting luncheons, and suppers served in the midst of a ball, are also all called ambigu. SERVICE FOR LUNCHEONS. Lunch is a small repast indulged in between breakfast and dinner. This meal is called lunch in English, in French goûter or taste, because it is less heavy than the others, and, as generally very little is eaten, it is only tasted. In France this old custom only exists in country towns where breakfast is very matinal; the English and Americans also lunch, for they breakfast early and only dine toward six or seven o'clock, therefore lunch is an indispensable meal with them. Larger and more ceremonious luncheons are frequently served; these are called "dinner luncheons," and many bills of fare for their preparation will be found later on. For family luncheons there are generally served cold meats, light entrées, sandwiches, pastries, ices, preserves, etc., LUNCHEON FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, OR FOR LADIES ONLY, OR GENTLEMEN ONLY. FOR LADIES ONLY. Although set with more simplicity than the dinner table, nothing elegant must be lacking; in the center of the table place a flower decoration, either a double cornicopia, or a boat, or two dossers set back to back, or a vase, or a temple, etc., according to the reason the lunch was offered to the guests. On each side place a piece made of nougat, one of spun sugar, and at each end a high stand on tiers filled with bonbons, Victorias, mottoes, etc. At eighteen or twenty-four inches from the edge, according to the width of the table, draw a line the same shape as the table and lay on this decanters of white and sherry wines, also water decanters, one for every two persons; two fruit dishes, four containing small fancy cakes, and two of dried fruits. Set semicircular around each plate as many glasses as there are wines; on the right hand lay a card bearing the name of the guest, and on the left a dress or buttonhole bouquet and the menu standing against the flower vase. Decorate the sideboard with the dessert service; carve the meats near the dining-room, and see that everything is served very hot. Let the wines be of a proper temperature, and specify each one while serving it; as soon as everything is in complete order, open the doors and bow, which means that the lunch is ready, and the guests may assemble in the dining-room to take their places at the seats designated on their cards. The service begins the same as the dinner and continues likewise until the coffee is served, when the ladies retire to the drawing-room to partake of theirs, to listen to music, or to withdraw unceremoniously. If the lunch should be intended for gentlemen only, suppress all ornamentation except the flowers and fruits; the menu should be more substantial, and if for ladies and gentlemen together, serve the same as for a dinner, observing the same etiquette. MEAT BREAKFAST (Déjeuner à la Fourchette). A meat breakfast is composed of broiled meats, cold meat, fish, eggs, croustades, fried dishes, sweets and dessert. BILL OF FARE. COLD SIDE DISHES. -MELON. Radishes, celery, olives, anchovies, caviare, sardines, fresh butter, artichokes poivrade, smoked breasts of goose, canapés of ham, gherkins, shrimps, mortadella, cucumbers, Lyons sausage, mackerel in oil, tomatoes and pickles. Oysters or Little Neck clams. FISH. Broiled -mackerel, shad, smelts, perch, trout, herrings. Fried -codfish, fillets of flounders, whitebait, frost fish. Baked -sheepshead, bass, English soles, redsnapper, kingfish. Boiled -salmon, groupper, halibut, skate, cod's tongues. Sautéd -weakfish, lobsters, mussels, bluefish, whitefish. EGGS. Omelets, scrambled, fried, poached, boiled soft and hard, soft, moulded or on a dish. ENTRÉES. Broiled -pig's feet, sausages, blood sausages, sliced venison. Fried -chicken, tendons of lamb, crawfish cutlets. Sautéd -tripe, chicken, kidneys, tournedos, calf's liver. Baked -sweetbreads, lamb chops in papers, quails, pigeons in cases. Braized -calf's head, sheep's trotters, grenadins of veal. Broiled -porterhouse steak, sirloin steak, tenderloin of beef, veal, mutton and lamb chops. COLD. Game pie, terrine of goose-livers (foies-gras.) Boned duck, chicken mayonnaise. ROAST. Game or broiled or roast poultry, with green salad. SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. If so far no eggs have been mentioned in the bill of fare, then fruit or spirituous omelets of all kinds may be served, or else Celestine omelet, snow soufflé, etc., but in case eggs have already been used, then diversify the bill of fare by giving fritters, crusts, pancakes, pears, apples, peaches, etc. Have also pies, tarts and cakes as well as cheese and fresh fruit. Coffee and Liquors. THE BREAKFAST TABLE. The breakfast table must be laid simpler, although with as much care and taste as for all other meals; naturally there is less ceremony to be observed for a breakfast, the simplicity of the bill of fare and wines rendering it far easier to serve. The hors-d'œuvre and fruit may be placed on the table, and when a dressy appearance is desired, flowers or high cold pieces, such as meat pies, chaufroids, aspics, trout or salmon, may also be added. The service for the wines and cooking is exactly the same as for a dinner. SUPPLIES (Approvisionnements). Good cooking is only obtained by having all the ingredients healthy, appetizing and nutritious; the stomach must not be fatigued, and yet the eye and the palate have to be somewhat flattered. A dish may be more or less simple, more or less difficult, but it must satisfy the taste and to obtain this result a cook should only use the best materials and those of the very freshest. All the supplies should be of the very first choice; the best cook in the world can fail to work properly unless the provisions are of the best. A cook anxious to perform his duty must pay the strictest attention to the selection of the food; this alone constitutes a science based on a deep knowledge and long practice. Beef must have light red, marbled meat, the fat being firm to the touch. Veal meat to be white and firm, also its fat. Mutton has red meat firm and marbled, the fat to be white. Pork must be carefully selected from pigs raised on acorns or corn, having firm, white meat, and firm, white, brittle fat. Chickens to be plump, the breast bone flexible, the ribs easily cracked. Pinch the pinion bones to see whether they are tender; the same of turkeys, other poultry and game. Old fowls can never replace young chickens, therefore use them as little as possible. A fish is to have a clear, fresh eye and must be firm to the touch; mistrust it as soon as the belly flesh becomes soft; the smell will indicate whether it be fresh or stale; the same of crustaceans. Vegetables to be selected of the very freshest. Fruits by their appearance and taste. TABLE OF SUPPLIES. FISH AND SHELL FISH. Index for American Fish and when they are in Season. S indicates when in season. FISH. POISSONS. January February March April May June July August September October November December Angel or moon..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... Bass, lake or black..... Bass de Lac..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S S " sea..... " de Mer..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S S ..... ..... " striped..... " Bar..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Blackfish or tautog..... Tautog..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S S ..... ..... Bluefish..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S ..... ..... FISH AND SHELL FISH. -CONTINUED. Index for American fish, and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. FISH. POISSONS. January February March April May June July August September October November December Bonito..... Bonite..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... ..... Butterfish..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Carp, common & Buffalo Carpe ordinaire..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S ..... ..... " German..... " miroir..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Codfish..... Morue..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Eels..... Anguilles..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Flounders or flukes..... Plie, Limande..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Frost fish..... Tacand..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S Grouper..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S Haddock..... Aiglefin..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Halibut..... Floton..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Herring..... Hareng..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Kingfish..... Umbrine..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S ..... ..... Lafayette..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S 15 ..... Lamprey..... Lamproie..... ..... ..... ..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Mackerel..... Maquereau..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S ..... ..... ..... " Spanish..... " Espagnol..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S S 15 ..... ..... Mullet..... Mulet..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... ..... Muscalonge..... Masque Allongé..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S S Perch..... Perche..... S S S S S ..... ..... ..... S S S S Pike perch..... Sandre..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " or Pickerel..... Brochet ou brocheton ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S S Pompano..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... 15 S Porgy..... Sargus..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S 15 ..... ..... Red Snapper..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Salmon, Kennebec and Oregon Saumon du Kennebec et de l'Oregon S S S S S Ken Ken Ken Ken S S S " trout..... Truite saumonée..... S S S S..... S..... S..... S..... S..... S..... S S S Shad and roe..... Alose et œufs..... S S S S S 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Sheepshead..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S 15 ..... Skate..... Raie..... S S S S S S ..... ..... S S S S Smelts..... Éperlans..... S S S 15 ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S Sole, English..... Sole Anglaise..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Spot fish..... ..... S S S S S ..... ..... S S S S S Sturgeon..... Esturgeon..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S 15 ..... ..... Trout, brook..... Truite de ruisseau..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... Turbot, American..... Turbot Américain..... S S S S S S 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " English..... " Anglais..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Weakfish..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S 15 ..... ..... Whitebait..... Blanchaille..... S S S ..... S S S S S S S S Whitefish..... Lavaret..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S SHELL FISH: CRUSTACÉS ET COQUILLAGES: Clams, hard..... Lucines oranges..... S S S S S S S S S S S S " soft..... " papillons..... S S S S S S ..... ..... ..... S S S Crabs, hard..... Crabes durs..... S S S S S S S S S S S S " soft..... " moux..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S 15 ..... ..... Crawfish..... Écrevisses..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Lobsters..... Homards..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Mussels..... Moules..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... ..... ..... Oysters..... Huîtres..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Scallops..... Pétoncles..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S Shrimps..... Crevettes..... ..... ..... 15 S S ..... ..... ..... 15 15 ..... ..... MISCELLANEOUS DIVERS Codfish tongues..... Langues de morue..... S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Crab oyster..... Crabes d'huîtres..... S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Frogs..... Grenouilles..... S S S S S Best Best Best Best Best S S Milts..... Laitances..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Terrapin..... Terrapène..... S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Turtle, green..... Tortue verte..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Prawns..... Crevettes..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... ..... FISH AND SHELL FISH. -CONTINUED. Index for American fish, and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. SALT FISH. POISSONS SALÉS. January February March April May June July August September October November December Anchovies..... Anchois..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Codfish, dried..... Morue sèche..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Herring..... Harengs..... S S S S S S S S S S S " pickled..... " marinés..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Mackerel..... Maquereau..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Prawns..... Crevettes..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Salmon..... Saumon..... S S S S S S S S S S S S SMOKED FISH POISSONS FUMÉS: Haddock, smoked or Finnan haddie..... Aiglefin fumé..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Halibut, smoked..... Floton fumé..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Herring, smoked..... Hareng fumé..... S S S S S S S S S S S S " bloaters..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S " kippered..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Mackerel..... Maquereau..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Salmon..... Saumon..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Shad..... Alôse..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Sturgeon..... Esturgeon..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Whitefish..... Lavaret..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S POULTRY. Index for Poultry and when it is in season. S indicates when in season. B indicates when the poultry is at its best. POULTRY. VOLAILLE. January February March April May June July August September October November December Capon..... Chapon..... S S S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S Chicken, to broil 1 1/4 lbs Pouletà Griller, 1 1/4 liv's S S S S S S S S S S S S " Sauter 2 1/2 lbs " Sauter, 2 1/2 " S S S S S S S S S S S S " Roast 3 lbs " Rôtir,3 " S S S S S S S S S S S S " Winter 4 lbs " Braiser, 4 " S S S S S S S S S S S S Duck, Mongrel..... Canards Métis..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " tame..... " Domestiques B B B B S S S S S S S B Duckling..... Caneton..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S S ..... Fowl..... Poule..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Geese..... Oie..... S S S S S S S S S S S S " Mongrel..... " Métisse..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Gosling..... Oison..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S S ..... Guinea fowl..... Pintade..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Peacock..... Paon..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Pigeon..... Pigeon..... S S S S S S S S S S S S " stall-fed..... " engraissé..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Pullet..... Poularde..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Squab..... Pigeonneau..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Turkey..... Dindon..... S S S S S S S S S S S S " E. R. I. ..... " ex Rh'de Is'nd B B S S S S S S B B B B " spring..... Dindonneau..... S S S S S S S S B B B S Suckling pig..... Cochon de lait..... S S S S S S S S S S S S In case no fresh ones are procurable, frozen poultry can be found every day of the year. FRUITS. Index for Fruits and when they are in Season. S indicates when in season. FRUITS. FRUITS. January February March April May June July August September October November December Alligator pears..... Avocats..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... Apples..... Pommes..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Apricots..... Abricots..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... Bananas..... Bananes..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Barberries..... Epines Vinettes..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S 15 ..... Blackberries..... Mûres..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... Cherries..... Cerises..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Chestnuts..... Marrons..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Cocoanuts..... Noix de Coco..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Currants, black & red..... Groseilles, cassis..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... Figs..... Figues..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 ..... ..... Ginger..... Gingembre..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S S Gooseberries..... Groseilles vertes dites à maquereau ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Grapes, Brighton..... Raisins, Brighton..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Concord..... " Concord..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S 15 ..... " Delaware..... " Delaware..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S 15 ..... ..... " Hautfonds..... " Hautfonds..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Hot house..... " de serre..... ..... S S S S S S S S S S 15 " Ives..... " Ives..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Jona..... " Jona..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Malaga..... " Malaga..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Muscatel..... " Muscatelle..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Niagara..... " Niagara..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Pokington..... " Pokington..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... " Rebecca..... " Rebecca..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S 15 ..... " Tokay..... " Tokay..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S ..... Grape fruit or shaddock ..... S S S S S S ..... ..... ..... S S S Green gages..... Reine Claude..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S 15 ..... ..... ..... Huckleberries..... Airelles..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S ..... ..... ..... ..... Lemons..... Citrons..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Limes..... Poncires..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Mangoes..... Mangoes..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... Melon, Cantaloup..... Melon, Cantaloup..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S 15 ..... ..... " Musk..... " Maraîcher..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S 15 ..... ..... " Spanish..... " Espagnol..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S ..... " Water..... " d'eau pastèque ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S 15 ..... ..... Nectarines..... Brugnons..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... Oranges, Florida..... Oranges de Floride..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S " Mandarins..... " Mandarines..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S " Spanish..... " d'Espagne..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Peaches..... Pêches..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S 15 ..... ..... " hot house..... " de serre..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Pears..... Poires..... S S S ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S S Pineapples..... Ananas..... S S S S S S S S S S S S Plums..... Prunes..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... Persimmons..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S 15 ..... Pomegranates..... Grenades..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S Quinces..... Coings..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... Raspberries..... Framboises..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... Strawberries..... Fraises..... ..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " hot house " de serre..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Tamarinds..... Tamarins..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... Tangerines..... ..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Wintergreen..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S S GAME. Index for Game and when it is in Season. S indicates when in season. GAME. GIBIER. January February March April May June July August September October November December Antelope and Venison Antilope..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S 15 ..... Bear..... Ours..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Birds, Doe..... Courlis..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... " Lark..... Mauviettes..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S " Rail-chopper, or Sora..... Râle..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S ..... ..... ..... " Reed..... Mésange Moustache..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Rice..... Oiseaux de Rizière..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Small..... Petits Oiseaux..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Buffalo..... Buffle..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Ducks, all kinds..... Canards de toutes-sortes..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Blackhead..... " à Tête noire..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Canvas-back..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Mallard..... " Malart..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Red head..... " Tête rouge..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Teal, bluewing..... Sarcelle ailes bleues..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Teal, green..... " ailes vertes..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Widgeon..... Canards siffleurs..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Wood..... " des bois..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Geese, Brant..... Oies Barnacles..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Wild..... " sauvages..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Grouse or praire{sic} hen..... Tétras ou poule de prairie S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S " Spruce..... Tétras..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Hare, American..... Lièvre, Américain..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S " English..... " Anglais..... S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Partridge..... Perdreau..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S Pheasants..... Faisans..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S Pigeons..... Pigeons..... ..... ..... S S S S ..... ..... S S S ..... Plovers, Grass..... Pluviers..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Corn, golden " Oorés..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Yellow legs..... " à pattes jaunes ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Ptarmigans..... Poules de Neige..... ..... S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Quails..... Cailles..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Rabbits..... Lapins..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Robins..... Rouge gorge..... Law against selling........................................ Snipe, Curlew..... Bécassines, Courlis..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " English..... " Anglaises ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S " Jersey..... " du Jersey ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S " Sand..... " de Sabe..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Squabs, wild..... Pigeonneaux sauvages ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S Squirrel..... Ecureuil..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S S S S Turkey, wild..... Dindon sauvage..... S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... S S Woodcock..... Bécasses..... S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 S S S S Almost everything, not fresh killed, may be found in good condition frozen, nearly every day in the year. MEATS. Index for Meats and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. B indicates when the meat is at its best. MEATS. VIANDES. January February March April May June July August September October November December Beef..... Bœuf..... B B S S S S S S S S B B Kid..... Chevreau..... ..... ..... S S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... Lamb, Spring..... Agneau de lait..... S S S S S S ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Lamb, Yearling..... Agneau Tardif..... S S S S S S S B B B S S Mutton..... Mouton..... B B S S S S S S S S B B Pig..... Cochon..... B B B S S S S S S B B B Veal..... Veau..... B B B B B B S S S S B B VEGETABLES. Index of Vegetables and when they are in season. M Indicates the month when in season. E Indicates when the vegetable comes from Europe; H when cultivated in hot-house or hot-beds. VEGETABLES. LÉGUMES. January February March April May June July August September October November December Artichokes..... Artichauts..... E E E E E E E E E E E E " Jerusalem Topinambours..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M Asparagus, hot-house Asperges de serre..... M 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Out-door " en Pleine terre ..... 15 M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Green " " Vertes..... ..... 15 M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Tips " " Pointes..... ..... 15 M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " White " " Blanches..... ..... 15 M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Beans, Broad..... Fèves..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M 15 ..... ..... " Lima..... Haricots, Lima..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... " String..... " Verts..... M M M M M M M M M M M M " Wax and butter Mange tout..... ..... M M M M M M M M M 15 ..... Beets..... Betteraves..... M M M new M M M M M M M M Brussels sprouts..... Choux de Bruxelles..... M M 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M Cabbage, Green Kale " Verts Kale..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Red..... " Rouges..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... 15 M M M M " Savoy..... " de Savoie..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... 15 M M M M " White..... " Blancs..... M new M M M M M M M M M M Cardoons..... Cardons..... M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Carrots..... Carottes..... M M M new M M M M M M M M Cauliflower..... Choux fleurs..... E E E H H H M M M M M M Celery knobs, Celeriac Céleri rave..... M M M M ..... ..... 15 M M M M M " Soup..... 7nbsp;" Vert..... M M M M M M M M M M M M Corn, green..... Maïs frais..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M 15 ..... ..... Cranberries..... Caneberges..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M Cucumbers..... Concombres..... H H H H H H M M M H H H " Small pickles Cornichons..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 M 15 ..... ..... Egg-plant..... Aubergines..... M M M M M M M M M M M M Garlic, dry..... Ail, sec..... M M M M M M new M M M M M Herbs, Basil..... Herbes Basilic..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... " Bay leaves, dry " Laurier, sec..... M M M M M M M M M M M M " Burnet..... " Pimprenelle..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... " Chervil..... " Cerfenil..... H H H H H H M M M H H H " Chives..... " Ciboulettes..... H H H H H H M M M H H H " Fennel..... " Fenouil..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... " Marjoram..... " Marjolaine..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... " Mint..... " Menthe..... H H H H H M M M M H H H " Parsley..... " Persil..... M M M M M M M M M M M M " Rosemary..... " Romarin..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... " Savory..... " Sarriette..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... " Tarragon..... " Estragon..... H H H H H M M M M H H H " Thyme..... " Thym..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... Hops..... Houblons..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 15 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Kohl rabi..... Choux raves..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M M ..... VEGETABLES. -CONTINUED. Index of Vegetables and when they are in season. M Indicates the Month they are in season. E Indicates when the vegetable comes from Europe; H Indicates when the vegetable is cultivated in hot-houses or hot-beds; S Indicates when the vegetable comes from the South; L Indicates when the vegetable comes from Long Island. VEGETABLES. LEGUMES. January February March April May June July August September October November December Leeks..... Poireaux..... M M M M M M M M M M M M Mushrooms, cultivated Champignons cultivés M M M M M M M M M M M M " Field..... " de Prairie ..... ..... ..... M M M ..... ..... M M M ..... " Girolles " Girolles ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M 15 ..... " Morils..... " Morilles ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M 15 ..... Okra or Gumbo..... Gombaut..... S S S S S S M M M M M S Onions..... Oignons..... M M M M M M M M M M M M " Bermuda..... " de Bermude 15 M M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Small..... " Petits..... M M M M M ..... M M M M M M Oyster-plant..... Salsifis..... M M M M M ..... ..... M M M M M Parsnips..... Panais..... M M M M M ..... ..... M M M M M Peas (South)..... Pois..... ..... S S S S S L L L L ..... ..... Peppers..... Poivrons..... S S S S S M M M M M M S Potatoes..... Pommes de terre..... M M M S M M L 15 M M M M " Bermuda..... " Bermude..... 15 M M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Havana..... " Havane..... ..... 15 M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... " Sweet..... Patates..... M M M M ..... ..... ..... M M M M M Pumpkins..... Potirons..... M 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M Radishes, black..... Radis noir..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M M M M M M " Horse..... Raifort..... M M M M M M M M M M M M "7nbsp;Red..... Radis rouge..... M M M M M M M M M M M M " White or gray " Blanc ou gris..... ..... ..... ..... 15 M M M M M M 15 ..... Rhubarb..... Rhubarbe..... ..... M M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... Salad, Monk's beard Salade barbede Capucin M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M " Celery..... " de Céleri..... M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M M " Chicory..... " de Chicorée..... M M M ..... ..... ..... M M M M M M " Corn..... " de Mâches..... M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M " Dandelion..... " de Pissenlit } " Dent-de-lion } M M M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M " Escarolle..... " Escarolle..... M M M ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M M " Lettuce..... " de Laitue..... M M M M M M M M M M M M " Romaine..... " de Romaine..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M M M M ..... " Watercress..... " Cresson..... M M M M M M M M M M M M Shallots..... Echalottes..... M M M M M M new M M M M M Sorrel..... Oseille..... H H H H H M M M M M H H Spinach..... Épinard..... M M M M M M M M M M M M Squash, summer, white " " yellow Courge blanche } Été " Jaune } ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M 15 ..... ..... " Winter, Hubbard " Hubbard Hiver M M M 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M " " Marrow " Moelle " M M M 15 ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M M Tomatoes..... Tomates..... H H S S S S S M M M H H Turnips, Rutabaga..... Navets Rutabaga..... M M M M ..... M M M M M M M " Teltow..... " Teltow..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... M M M " White..... " Blancs..... M M M M M new new new new M M M MODEL MARKET LIST. Reed On hand Need BEEF. Chuck..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Corned, Navel..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Plate..... " ..... ..... ..... " Rump..... " ..... ..... ..... Fillets..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Heads..... " ..... ..... ..... Hearts..... " ..... ..... ..... Kidneys..... " ..... ..... ..... Legs..... " ..... ..... ..... Loin, Flat Bone..... " ..... ..... ..... " Hip..... " ..... ..... ..... " Short..... " ..... ..... ..... Marrow Bones..... " ..... ..... ..... Palates..... " ..... ..... ..... Ribs..... " ..... ..... ..... Round..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Rump..... " ..... ..... ..... Tails..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Tongues, Fresh..... " ..... ..... ..... Butt..... ..... ..... ..... ..... LAMB (SPRING). Legs..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Racks, Short Cut..... " ..... ..... ..... " Twelve Ribs..... " ..... ..... ..... Saddles, Fore..... " ..... ..... ..... " Hind..... " ..... ..... ..... Whole Lamb..... " ..... ..... ..... ......................... ..... ..... ..... ..... LAMB (YEARLING). Breast..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Feet..... " ..... ..... ..... Fries..... " ..... ..... ..... Legs..... " ..... ..... ..... Racks, Short Cut..... " ..... ..... ..... " Twelve Ribs..... " ..... ..... ..... Saddles, Fore..... " ..... ..... ..... " Hind..... " ..... ..... ..... Shoulders..... " ..... ..... ..... Sweetbread..... " ..... ..... ..... Whole Lamb..... " ..... ..... ..... ......................... ..... ..... ..... ..... MUTTON. Brains..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Breast..... " ..... ..... ..... Feet..... " ..... ..... ..... Kidneys..... " ..... ..... ..... Legs..... " ..... ..... ..... Racks, Short Cut..... " ..... ..... ..... " Twelve Ribs..... " ..... ..... ..... Saddles, Fore..... " ..... ..... ..... " Hind..... " ..... ..... ..... Shoulders..... " ..... ..... ..... Whole Mutton..... " ..... ..... ..... VEAL. Brains..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Breast..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Feet..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Fore Quarter..... " ..... ..... ..... Heads..... " ..... ..... ..... Hind Quarter..... " ..... ..... ..... Kidneys..... " ..... ..... ..... Livers..... " ..... ..... ..... Racks..... " ..... ..... ..... Shoulders..... " ..... ..... ..... Spinal Marrow..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Sweetbread..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Tails..... " ..... ..... ..... Tongues..... " ..... ..... ..... Reed On hand Need PORK AND PROVISIONS. Bacon..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Bologna..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Feet, Pigs..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Ham, Corned..... " ..... ..... ..... " Fresh..... " ..... ..... ..... " Smoked..... " ..... ..... ..... " Westphalia..... " ..... ..... ..... Lamb Tongues..... " ..... ..... ..... Lard..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Larding Pork..... " ..... ..... ..... Loin..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Pork Tongues..... " ..... ..... ..... Salt Pork, Breast..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Sausages..... " ..... ..... ..... " Frankfort..... " ..... ..... ..... " Meat..... " ..... ..... ..... Shoulders..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Smoked Beef..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Smoked Beef Tongues..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Tenderloin..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Tripe..... " ..... ..... ..... VEGETABLES. Artichokes..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Jerusalem..... peck. ..... ..... ..... Asparagus..... bunch. ..... ..... ..... " Tips..... " ..... ..... ..... Beans, Lima..... bushel. ..... ..... ..... " String..... " ..... ..... ..... Beets..... " ..... ..... ..... Brussels Sprouts..... " ..... ..... ..... Carrots..... bbl. ..... ..... ..... Carrots, New..... " ..... ..... ..... Cabbage..... doz. ..... ..... ..... Cauliflowers..... " ..... ..... ..... Celery Knobs or Celeriac..... bunch. ..... ..... ..... " Soup..... " ..... ..... ..... Corn, Green..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Cranberries..... bushel. ..... ..... ..... Cucumbers..... doz. ..... ..... ..... Egg Plant..... " ..... ..... ..... Garlic..... " ..... ..... ..... Herbs, Dry..... bunch. ..... ..... ..... " Chervil..... " ..... ..... ..... " Chives..... " ..... ..... ..... " Mint..... " ..... ..... ..... " Parsley..... " ..... ..... ..... " Tarragon..... " ..... ..... ..... Kohl-rabi..... " ..... ..... ..... Leeks..... " ..... ..... ..... Melon, Musk..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Mushrooms, Cultivated..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Field..... " ..... ..... ..... Okra..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Onions..... bbl. ..... ..... ..... " Small..... peck. ..... ..... ..... Oyster Plants..... doz. ..... ..... ..... Parsnips..... peck. ..... ..... ..... Peas..... bushel. ..... ..... ..... Peppers..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Potatoes..... bbl. ..... ..... ..... " New..... " ..... ..... ..... " Sweet..... bushel. ..... ..... ..... Pumpkin..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Radishes..... doz. ..... ..... ..... Radish, Horse..... " ..... ..... ..... Rhubarb..... " ..... ..... ..... Salad, Barbe..... " ..... ..... ..... " Celery..... " ..... ..... ..... " Chicory..... " ..... ..... ..... " Corn..... peck. ..... ..... ..... Reed On hand Need VEGETABLES - continued. Salad, Dandelion..... peck. ..... ..... ..... " Escarolle..... doz. ..... ..... ..... " Lettuce..... " ..... ..... ..... " Romaine..... " ..... ..... ..... " Water Cress..... basket. ..... ..... ..... Shallots..... bushel. ..... ..... ..... Sorrel..... " ..... ..... ..... Spinach..... " ..... ..... ..... Squash, Summer (white)..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " " (yellow)..... " ..... ..... ..... " Winter, Hubbard..... " ..... ..... ..... " " Marrow..... " ..... ..... ..... Tomatoes..... box. ..... ..... ..... Turnips..... bbl. ..... ..... ..... EGGS. Fresh..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Ordinary..... " ..... ..... ..... ......................... ..... ..... ..... ..... FISH. Bass, Black or Lake..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Rock..... " ..... ..... ..... " Sea..... " ..... ..... ..... " Striped..... " ..... ..... ..... Blackfish..... " ..... ..... ..... Bluefish..... " ..... ..... ..... Carp, Buffalo..... " ..... ..... ..... Clams, Hard..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Soft..... " ..... ..... ..... Codfish..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Dry..... " ..... ..... ..... " Tongues..... " ..... ..... ..... Crabs, Hard..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Meat..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Soft shell..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Crawfish..... " ..... ..... ..... Eels..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Flounders..... " ..... ..... ..... Frogs..... " ..... ..... ..... Frost Fish..... " ..... ..... ..... Groupper..... " ..... ..... ..... Haddock..... " ..... ..... ..... " Finnan..... " ..... ..... ..... Halibut, 6 to 12 lbs..... " ..... ..... ..... Herring..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Bloaters..... " ..... ..... ..... " Salt..... " ..... ..... ..... " Smoked..... " ..... ..... ..... Kingfish..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Lamprey..... " ..... ..... ..... Lobsters..... " ..... ..... ..... Mackerel..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Salt..... bbl. ..... ..... ..... " Spanish..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Mussels..... bushel. ..... ..... ..... Oyster crabs..... quarts. ..... ..... ..... Pompano..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Perch..... " ..... ..... ..... Pike or Pickerel..... " ..... ..... ..... " Wall Eyed..... " ..... ..... ..... Porgies..... " ..... ..... ..... Prawns..... " ..... ..... ..... Red Snapper..... " ..... ..... ..... Salmon..... " ..... ..... ..... " Frozen..... " ..... ..... ..... " Kennebec..... " ..... ..... ..... " Smoked..... " ..... ..... ..... " Trout..... " ..... ..... ..... Scallops..... quarts. ..... ..... ..... Shad..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Reed On hand Need Shad Roes..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Sheepshead..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Shrimp..... quarts. ..... ..... ..... Skate..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Smelts..... " ..... ..... ..... Sole, English..... " ..... ..... ..... Spot Fish..... " ..... ..... ..... Terrapin..... doz. or lbs. ..... ..... ..... Trout, Brook..... " ..... ..... ..... Turbot, American..... " ..... ..... ..... " European..... " ..... ..... ..... Turtle, Green..... " ..... ..... ..... Weakfish..... " ..... ..... ..... Whitebait..... " ..... ..... ..... Whitefish..... " ..... ..... ..... ......................... ..... ..... ..... ..... GAME. Antelope, S. or L. ..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Bear..... " ..... ..... ..... Birds, Doe..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Lark..... " ..... ..... ..... " Rail, Sora..... " ..... ..... ..... " Reed, Rice..... " ..... ..... ..... Buffalo..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Ducks, Black-head..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Brant..... " ..... ..... ..... " Canvas-back..... " ..... ..... ..... " Mallard..... " ..... ..... ..... " Red-head..... " ..... ..... ..... " Ruddy..... " ..... ..... ..... " Teal B. Wing..... " ..... ..... ..... Grouse..... " ..... ..... ..... Hare, American..... " ..... ..... ..... Hare, European..... " ..... ..... ..... Partridges..... " ..... ..... ..... Pheasants, English..... " ..... ..... ..... Plovers, Bay..... " ..... ..... ..... " Grass..... " ..... ..... ..... " Yellow legs, large..... " ..... ..... ..... " " small..... " ..... ..... ..... Ptarmigans..... " ..... ..... ..... Quails..... " ..... ..... ..... Rabbits..... " ..... ..... ..... Snipe..... " ..... ..... ..... " English..... " ..... ..... ..... " Sand..... " ..... ..... ..... Squabs, Wild..... " ..... ..... ..... Squirrel..... " ..... ..... ..... Turkey, Wild..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Venison, L. Saddle..... " ..... ..... ..... " S and Legs..... " ..... ..... ..... 7nbsp;" Whole..... " ..... ..... ..... Woodcock..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... ......................... ..... ..... ..... ..... POULTRY. Capon..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Chickens, B., 1 1/4 lbs. ..... " ..... ..... ..... " S., 2 1/2 lbs. ..... " ..... ..... ..... " R. 3 lbs. ..... " ..... ..... ..... " Winter..... " ..... ..... ..... Ducks, Mongrel..... " ..... ..... ..... " Tame..... " ..... ..... ..... Ducklings..... " ..... ..... ..... Fowl..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Geese..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... " Mongrel..... " ..... ..... ..... Goslings..... " ..... ..... ..... Guinea Fowl..... " ..... ..... ..... Peacock..... " ..... ..... ..... Pullets..... " ..... ..... ..... Reed On hand Need POULTRY - continued. Pigeons, Stall Fed..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Squabs..... " ..... ..... ..... Turkeys..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Ex. R. I. ..... " ..... ..... ..... " Spring..... " ..... ..... ..... Suckling Pig..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... ......................... ..... ..... ..... ..... FRUITS. Apricots..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Apples..... " ..... ..... ..... Bananas..... " ..... ..... ..... Barberries..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Blackberries..... quarts. ..... ..... ..... Cherries..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... Chestnuts..... " ..... ..... ..... Currants, Black or Red..... " ..... ..... ..... Ginger..... quarts ..... ..... ..... Gooseberries..... " ..... ..... ..... Reed On hand Need Grapes, Concord..... lbs. ..... ..... ..... " Delaware..... " ..... ..... ..... " Hot House..... " ..... ..... ..... " Malaga..... " ..... ..... ..... " Rebecca..... " ..... ..... ..... Green Gages..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Huckleberries..... quarts. ..... ..... ..... Lemons..... pcs. ..... ..... ..... Melon, Water..... " ..... ..... ..... " Musk..... " ..... ..... ..... Nectarines..... " ..... ..... ..... Oranges..... " ..... ..... ..... Peaches..... " ..... ..... ..... Pears..... " ..... ..... ..... Pineapples..... " ..... ..... ..... Plums, Prunes..... " ..... ..... ..... Pomegranates..... " ..... ..... ..... Quinces..... " ..... ..... ..... Raspberries..... quarts ..... ..... ..... Strawberries..... " ..... ..... ..... MISCELLANEOUS. Reed On hand Need ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... Reed On hand Need ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... ................................... ..... ..... ..... BILLS OF FARE. The bills of fare are classed as follows: Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Buffet or standing suppers, Collations, Hunting parties, Garden parties served Ambigu, sit down suppers and dancing parties including the refreshments and supper. These bills of fare are numbered according to articles and not to pages and every recipe in the book will be found in the Bills of Fare, thus forming a double index, as the table of contents at the end of the book is more conveniently classed by pages. The breakfast bills of fare include more than one hundred different ways of preparing eggs, fish, minces, chopped meats, broils and sweet dishes. The luncheons are composed of crustaceans, small entrées, poultry, game, hot entremets and desserts. The dinners are composed of American, English, Russian and French service: Buffets of the greatest variety and manifold ways of serving them. At the end of the book is placed a collection of choice bills of fare served by the house of Delmonico, between the years 1862 to 1893. An illustration of a Dining Table set up for Breakfast. LIGHT BREAKFAST OF COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, TEA. Crescents (3414) Biscuit, plain or with cinnamon (3266) (3267) Brioches (3269) Couques (3277) Corn bread (3422) Buns, English and Hot Cross (3270) Flutes of brioches (3268) Grissini with sugar and with butter (3278) (3279) Muffins (3421) Rolls (3420) Échaudés (3282) Small flutes, finger-rolls (3419) Flutes or French rolls (3420) Small rolls, with butter (3420) Toast dry, buttered (3283) Toast dipped in milk or cream (3283) GRIDDLE CAKES. Buckwheat cakes (with compressed yeast)(3272) Indian cakes (3274) Wheat cakes (3276) Flannel cakes (3273) Rice cakes (3275) Polish Blinis (3281) COOKED CEREALS. Hominy (3280) Oatmeal (3280) Polenta wheaten grits (3280) BREADS. Jocko (3416) Crown (3415) Graham (3423) Rye (3423) American bread (3417) Pulled bread, bread crumbs pulled out and browned in the oven. Assorted fruits (3699) Oranges (3699) Grape fruit (3699) Boiled eggs (2856) Fresh butter (775) 1 JANVIER. DÉJEUNER, 12 COUVERTS. MENU. Chablis Huîtres (803) Madère Sec Poitrine d'oie fumée (822) Radis (808) Olives (800) Redsnapper mariné (832) Perches à la Polonaise (1208) Vin de Moselle Croquettes de pommes de terre en surprise (2782) Noisettes de filet de mouton glacées (1610) Fedelini Cardinal (2953) Poulet sauté Montesquieu (1895) Beaune Tomates grillées sauce mayonnaise chaude (2838) Œufs moulés en caisses au foie gras (2877) Pontet Canet Perdreaux rôtis piqués au jus garnis de cresson (2102) Salade de mâche (2669) Fruits (3699) Fromage (3697) Alicante Compote (3686) Salade d'oranges (3690) Café (3701) 2 FÉVRIER. DÉJEUNER, 10 COUVERTS. MENU. Graves Huîtres (803) Sherry Fruits en ravier (793) Œufs de vanneau (784) Caviar (778) . Omelette aux foies de volaille (2884) Hochheimer Alose à la Evers garnie de coquilles d'œufs d'alose (1252) Goujons frits au beurre (1163) Mignons de filet de bœuf Chéron (1401) Musigny Poulet sauté Chasseur (1903) Salade Italienne (2635) St. Emilion Canvasback grillés (Canards sauvages) (2054) Salade de céleri (2660) Gâteau d'amandes (3225) Malaga Fromage (3697) Fruits (3699) Liqueurs Café (3701) 3 MARS. DÉJEUNER, 24 COUVERTS. MENU. Sauterne Crabes d'huîtres marinés (805) Canapés de langues (777) Saucisson de Lyon (818) Maquereaux fumés (798) Côte-Rôtie Pompano Macédoine (1223) Pommes Dauphine (2783) Tournedos de filet de bœuf Laguipierre (1434) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Poulet sauté Diva (1886) Pointes d'asperges à la Maintenon (2695). Léoville Œufs pochés à la Bourguignonne (2926) Faisan truffé rôti (2110) Salade de laitue (2672) Porto St. Honoré à la Sultane (3261) Compotes (3686) Fromage (3697) Fruits (3699) Liqueurs Café (3701) 4 AVRIL. DÉJEUNER, 18 COUVERTS. MENU. Chablis Huîtres (803) Harengs marinés (787) Saucisson à l'ail (818). Homard à la Boulognaise (794) Niersteiner Œufs des gourmets (2950) Truites à l'Hôtelière (1292) Concombres (2661) Tournedos de filet de bœuf Flavignan (1432) Lazagnettes à la Philadelphie (2957) Pontet-Canet Côtelettes de pigeonneau Signora (2269) Pointes d'asperges au fromage (2697) Chambertin Sarcelles grillées (2067) Salade Russe (2645) Gâteaux aux fraises (3262) Dessert Liqueurs Café (3701) 5 MAI. DÉJEUNER, 16 COUVERTS. MENU. Sherry Olives Croissants (800) Mortadelle (818) Sardines (817) Canapés de harengs à la Russe (777) Haut Sauterne Consommé tapioca (316) Maquereau Espagnol farci garni de groseilles vertes (1199) Côtelettes d'agneau Gavardi (1675) Pommes Gastronome (2789) Champagne Filets de poulet à la Mexicaine (1859) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Asperges chaudes à la vinaigrette (2692) Œufs brouillés en bordure de risot aux foies de canards (2938) Nuits Canetons grillés mayonnaise vertes aux fines herbes (1938) Salade de laitue (2672) Tartelettes aux fruits variés (3337) Liqueurs Fromage (3697) Fruits (3699) Café (3701) 6 JUIN. DÉJEUNER, 10 COUVERTS. MENU. Niersteiner Lucines (803) Radis (808) Beurre (775) Olives (800) Champagne Tranches de saumon grillées sauce Béarnaise (1244) Grenadins de filet de bœuf Beaumarchais (1385) Pommes de terre Long Branch (2793) Côtelettes de pigeonneaux Lauriston (2265) Champignons à la Rivera (2758) Œufs frits à la Eugène André (2866) Château Lagrange Poulet grillé au jus (1831) Salade de romaine (2675) Beignets de cerises fraîches (3042) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Fromage (3697) Café (3701) 7 JUILLET. DÉJEUNER, 12 COUVERTS. MENU. Graves Lucines (803) Conconbres en filets (783) Harengs saurs (788) Haricots verts marinés (824) Marcobrunner Oranges à la Russe (3613) Kingfish à la Sultane (1185) Pommes Viennoise (2812) Ris d'agneau Joinville (1761) Maïs sauté au beurre (2731) Homard à la Bordelaise (1025) Œufs durs à la Bennett (2858) Château Larose Alouettes grillées (2082) Salade de romaine (2675) Bordure de riz aux bananes (3005) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Fromage (3697) Café glacé (3609) 8 AOûT. DÉJEUNER, 18 COUVERTS. MENU. Xérés Piments verts (806) Avocats (771) Olives Espagnoles (800) Acharts aux fines herbes (792) Liebfraumilch Omelette aux truffes (2908) Weakfish à la Pontigny (1309) Concombres à l'Anglaise (2661) Filets de poulet à la Valençay (1855) Macaroni à la mode de Naples (2960) Champagne Grenadins de filet de veau aux tomates à l'Argentine (1507) Pommes de terre aux truffes émincées (2813) Château Léoville Canetons grillés (1938) Salade de cresson aux pommes d'arbres (2676) Flan d'abricots (3170) Poncire à la Madison (3612) Liqueurs Fromage (3697) Fruits (3699) Café à la Turque (3702) 9 SEPTEMBRE. DÉJEUNER, 22 COUVERTS. MENU. Absinthe, Vermouth, Kümmel. Concombres marinés (785) Canapés d'esturgeon (777) Choux fleurs marinés (776) Paupiettes de harengs à la Polonaise (789) Lafaurie Kingfish Montgolfier (1183) Salade de concombres (2661) Mignons de filet de bœuf à la Stanley (1406) St. Pierre Puree de pois verts (2742) Côtelettes de pigeonneaux Provençale (2268) Œufs au miroir à la Tivolier (2855) Haut Brion Perdreaux rôtis au jus garnis de cresson (2102) Salade d'escarole (2671) Petites meringues Italiennes au café (3394) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Fromage (3697) Café (3701) 10 OCTOBRE. DÉJEUNER, 14 COUVERTS. MENU. Graves Huîtres (803) Cerneaux frais (834) Choux rouges (776) Maquereaux à l'huile (797) Moselle Omelette physiologique (2904) Pompano à la Toulouse (1227) Pommes de terre Gastronome (2789) Beaune Côtelettes de chevreuil Buridan (2170) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Poulets sautés à la Dodds (1887) Champagne Escargots au beurre de Provence (1016) Râles à la Mareille (2150) Salade de laitue (2672) Glace parfait au nougat (3478) Liqueurs Confitures de groseilles de Bar (3678) Fromage (3697) Café (3701) 11 NOVEMBRE. DÉJEUNER, 8 COUVERTS. MENU. Hermitage (blanc) Huîtres et citrons (803) Cerneaux confits (833) Saumon fumé (822) Reltinger Petit Esturgeon aux quenelles et olives (1289) Pommes de terre grillées à la chapelure (2776) St. Estèphe Filets mignons d'agneau sauce crème (1724) Nouilles sautées au beurre (2972) Pain d'écrevisses Chartreuse (2305) Œufs sur le plat Condé (2912) Champagne Outarde en daube (1944) Salade de céleri (2660) Pouding soufflé Saxonne (3107) Fruits (3699) Fromage (3697) Liqueurs Café (3701) 12 DECEMBRE. DÉJEUNER, 8 COUVERTS. MENU. Montrachet Huîtres (803) Saumon fumé (822) Alose marinée (787) Piesporter Tranches de saumon grillées sauce Béarnaise (1244) Pommes Marquise (2797) Tournedos de filet de bœuf aux raisins (1439) Petits pois Ménagère (2744) Lapereau à la Thieblin (2138) Chaudfroid de jeunes pintades (2453) Œufs brouillés aux truffes du Périgord (2947) Rauzan Ruddy ducks grillés (2066) Salade de laitue (2672) Amandes salées (3696) Fruits secs (3699) Compotes (3686) Liqueurs Café (3701) JANUARY -BREAKFAST. 13 Oysters with lemon (803) Eggs on a dish with cèpes (2922) Broiled fresh codfish with bacon (1138) Calf's head vinaigrette (1519) Hashed pheasant (2299) Porterhouse steak à la Sanford (1363) Saratoga potatoes (2803) Pèlerine tartlets (3335) Dessert 14 Marinated tunny fish (831) Omelet, German style (2891) Grouper à la Franklyn (1162) Corned beef hash, American style (2291) Chicken leg cutlets with olives (1875) Mutton chops plain (1590) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Fruits (3699) 15 Eggs on a dish à la Bercy (2910) Chicken halibut with carrots (1173) Spinal marrow of veal, Villeroi (1549) Stewed mutton kidneys à la Burtel (1616) Chateaubriant Colbert sauce (1381) Anna potatoes (2770) Fruits (3699) Mars cake (3318) 16 Anchovy salad (772) Eggs Russian style (2865) Fresh herring paupiettes with milts (1176) Duck giblets, housekeeper's style (1927) Edible snails, Bourguignonne (1015) Veal cutlets à la Seymour (1497) Demi-glace potatoes (2784) Triumvirat fritters (3050) 17 Bouillabaisse à la Marengo (1123) Scrambled eggs with mushrooms (2942) Oxtail chipolata (1321) Fried artichoke bottoms (2683) Broiled chicken à la Delisle (1828) Mellow potatoes (2799) Light pancakes with preserves (3079) Dessert 18 Soft eggs chipolata (2949) Fried frostfish (1160) Slices of mutton purée of beans (1635) Pork cutlets with fine herbs (1780) Potato and beetroot salad (2652) Broiled squab, Colbert sauce (2013) Compote (3686) Coffee (3701) 19 Palmettes Perrier (922) Poached eggs with spinach (2933) Lobster, Dugléré (1031) Shoulder of mutton marinated with cream sauce (1651) Fried asparagus tips à la Miranda (2696) Aspic of foies gras (small) (2412) Broiled partridge, English style (2085) Cheese (3697) 20 Marinated smelts (821) Poached eggs Villeroi (2928) Lamb trotters à la Bordelaise (1766) Turtle stew à la Foster (1093) Lentils with bacon (2750) Roasted tenderloin of pork with gravy (1817) Apples, Portuguese style (2998) Stewed fruits (3686) JANUARY -BREAKFAST. 21 Anchovy salad (772) Ham omelet with green peas (2893) Small green turtle baked (1092) Sheep's trotters à la poulette (1659) Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) Squabs in earthenware saucepan (2018) Water-cress salad with apples (2676) Dessert 22 Radishes (808) Olives (800) Crabs, Carolina style (1003) Gosling stewed with turnips (1954) Neck of lamb with cabbage (1729) Oyster plant poulette (2817) Pork tenderloins, Printanière (1813) Célestine omelet with whipped cream (3057) 23 Caviare (778) Perch stuffed and baked (1210) Corned beef with cabbage (1315) Hashed young rabbit (2303) Celery stalks with velouté sauce (2721) Truffled pigs' feet, Périgord sauce (1786) Bavarois with meringues (3133) Dessert 24 Canapés of anchovies (777) Salt mackerel with cream horseradish sauce (1195) Tenderloin of beef pudding with oysters (2322) Smothered red beans (2700) Tripe, Lyonnese style (1475) Rum omelet (3059) Rouen mirlitons (3323) Dessert 25 Marinated tunny fish (831) Soft clams on skewers (999) Cucumber salad (2661) Stewed lamb, Parisian style (1756) Trévise tomatoes (2836) Pork cutlets, Aurora (1776) Omelet with russet apples (3071) Dessert 26 Oysters (803) Fresh mackerel, white piquante sauce (1194) Minced tenderloin of pork à la minute (1812) Lambs' tails, Conti (1763) String beans à la Pettit(2827) Edible snails à la Saintonge (1014) Parisian cakes (3321) Dessert 27 Shad, Irish style, garnished with croquettes (1254) Rissoles of mushrooms with marrow (953) Neck of veal au blanc (1538) Potatoes à la Bignon (2773) Lambs' tongues with olives (1765) Baked stuffed eggplants (2738) Rum omelet (3059) Dessert 28 Olives (800) Westphalian ham (786) Spotted fish with court bouillon, Calcutta (1287) Fried oxtails (1323) Stuffed mushrooms in cases (2762) Green turtle, Havana style (1091) Eggs with cream, meringued (3032) Dessert FEBRUARY -BREAKFAST. 29 Caviare canapés (777) Bonvalet omelet (2882) Codfish tongues with chopped sauce (1141) Truffled pigs' feet (1785) Kernel of veal with thickened gravy (1521) German salad with croûtons (2664) Broiled ptarmigan (2071) Dessert 30 Bouillabaisse Parisian (1124) Eggs on a dish, Bienvenue (2911) Pork cutlets with mashed potatoes (1782) Poulpetonnière pigeons (2321) Broiled bear steak (2046) Pont-neuf potatoes (2800) Stewed or compoted fruits (3686) Coffee (3701) 31 Oysters and lemons (803) Eggs miroir à la Provençal (2854) Chicken halibut baked with Parmesan (1172) Blanquette of breast of veal à la Jacquart (1490) Sauerkraut garnished (2819) Beefsteak with fine herbs (1374) Maître-d'hôtel potatoes (2795) Preserved large white currants (3678) 32 Westphalian ham (786) Bertini omelet (2881) Salt herring with mashed potatoes (1177) Lamb carbonade à la Rambuteau (1667) Broiled pullet, tartar sauce (1991) Cream of biscuits with kirsch (3011) Cheese (3697) Dessert 33 Matelote à la marinière, St. Mandé (1201) Scrambled eggs with fine herbs (2939) Lambs' trotters, Chantilly (1767) Hashed chicken, Ancient style (2292) Sarah potatoes (2802) Broiled teal duck (2067) Corn salad (2669) Souffléd fritters with lemon peel (3048) 34 Chiffonade potatoes (807) Hard-boiled eggs, New York style (2864) Frostfish or whiting baked (1161) Lamb hash with bananas (2296) Potatoes à la Parmentier (2811) Rump steak à la Villageoise (1367) Apple tartlets (3327) Coffee (3701) 35 Quenelles of fish, Montglas (2330) Turkey giblets, salamander (2033) Beef hash, Sam Ward (2288) Green peas, English style (2742) Veal kidneys à l'Anderson (1524) Broiled ptarmigan (2071) Rum omelet (3059) Fruits (3699) 36 Caviare (778) Minced leg of mutton à la Lyonnaise (1632) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Veal kidneys à la Roederer (1525) Pigs' feet à la St. Menehould (1783) Mushrooms à la Raynal (2756) Apples with butter (2999) Dessert MARCH -BREAKFAST. 37 Oysters on the half shell (803) Eggs in cases à la Colbert (2874) Cisco fish, Castillane sauce (1134) Kernel of ham, Biarritz (1794) Veal cutlets maître-d'hôtel (1501) Dandelion salad (2670) Compote (3686) Coffee (3701) 38 Eggs on a dish (2909) Salt codfish, Spanish style (1142) Calf's brains, Aurora (1479) Frogs' legs deviled (1020) Tournedos of beef, Victorin (1438) Marshall potatoes (2796) Apple fritters, Montagnard (3037) Dessert 39 Fried anchovies (1249) Eggs à la Gibson (2861) Kingfish, Princelay (1184) Minced tenderloin of beef with potato croquettes (1398) Broiled chicken with tarragon gravy (1831) Endive salad (2671) Apple pie (3199) Dessert 40 Smoked beef (822) Plain omelet with cream (2886) Weakfish à la Brighton (1308) Jugged neck of mutton (1639) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) Lobster mayonnaise (2534) Pullet legs with new carrots (2005) Quartered apple fritters (3041) 41 Spanish olives with anchovies (800) Eggs on a dish à la Monaco (2916) Smoked herring with cream (1178) Stewed lamb, Dugléré (1754) Mussels marinière (1046) Beefsteak Bordelaise with marrow (1371) Duchess dariole cakes (3299) Dessert 42 Shad marinated (787) Poached eggs à la Mirabeau (2927) Matelote à la Talabasse (1202) Sliced kernel of pork à la Cavour (1795) Potato fritters (2788) Rib steak à la Bercy (1364) Omelet stuffed with strawberries (3068) Dessert 43 Eggs miroir, Jockey Club (2851) Lambs' kidneys glazed (1702) Baked beef palate, Chevreuse (1327) Potatoes persillade (2774) Chicken legs as cutlets with olives (1875) Trévise tomatoes (2836) Lambs' brains with mayonnaise (2446) Dessert 44 Anchovy salad (772) Hard-boiled egg croquettes (2863) Breast of veal stew with roux (1491) Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) Sheep's tongue, Neapolitan style (1658) Potato shavings (2807) Baked chicken in shells (2345) Fruits (3699) APRIL -BREAKFAST. 45 Broiled sardines (1249) Omelet Desjardins (2887) Fried gudgeons (1163) Rump of beef miroton (1344) Guinea fowl with sauerkraut (1958) Mutton chops, Tavern style (1592) Souffléd potatoes (2808) Strawberries and cream (3699) 46 Anchovy salad (772) Eggs on a dish, English style (2914) Lamprey à la Rabelais (1189) Baked mashed potatoes (2798) Calf's brains tomatoed, Béarnaise (1485) Sirloin steak, Ancient style (1373) Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2013) Rum omelet (3059) 47 Arles sausage (818) Canapés of shrimps (777) Scrambled eggs with tomato purée (2945) Smelts fried on skewers, tartar sauce (1269) Kernel of leg of mutton in papers (1631) Calf's brains à la poulette (1481) Broiled chicken with bacon, maître-d'hôtel (1830) Apples with butter (2999) 48 Oysters and lemons (803) Mackerel in oil (797) Hard-boiled eggs à la Benoist (2859) Matelote of canotiers (1203) Broiled pig's feet (1784) Cabbage, peasant style (2706) Roasted wild squabs (2018) Provençal potatoes (2801) 49 Marinated sardines (817) Eggs on a dish with tomatoes (2924) Salmon (salt) à la Bedlow (1247) Boiled potatoes (2774) Flat sausages with tomato Soubise (1805) Broiled tenderloin, anchovy butter (1424) Endive salad (2671) Nougat of apricots, cake (3319) 50 Oysters on the half shell (803) Omelet, Duxelle with fine herbs (2888) Carp broiled and breaded maître-d'hôtel (1130) Baked potatoes with cream (2780) Mutton kidneys on skewers (1618) Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) Lettuce salad (2672) Apple charlotte (3008) 51 Eggs molded in cocottes à la Bedford (2873) Lobsters à la Delmonico (1037) Veal cutlets à la Zingara (1498) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Terrine of duck's liver à l'Aquitaine (2596) Roast squabs (2018) Cheese (3697) Strawberry short cake (3262) 52 Small trout fried and marinated with wine (829) Mushroom patties (937) Stuffed lambs' trotters with tarragon gravy (1769) Squabs à la Crapaudine (2007) Sausages with truffles (1806) Cream with lemon peel in pots (3155) Croustades à la Castillane (895) Dessert MAY -BREAKFAST. 53 Clams (803) Spanish omelet (2907) Salt codfish à la Villageoise (1144) Turnips with Béchamel (2848) Calf's brains with black butter (1484) Chicken pie à la Rigolo (2371) Terrine of larks (2601) Lettuce salad (2672) 54 Eggs à l'Aurora (2857) Pompano à la Carondelet (1221) Lamb stew, Irish style (1758) Macaroni, Parisian style (2961) Mussels baked with fine herbs (1050) Minions of tenderloin of beef (1399) Viennese potatoes (2812) Hérisson tartlets (3333) 55 Stuffed clams (997) Fried carp with parsley (1131) Scrambled eggs with tomatoes and chives (2946) Baked breast of lamb (1662) Chicken pie (2554) Veal kidneys with marrow (1526) Potato and herring salad (2653) Frangipane omelet (3058) 56 Canapés Brownson (853) Porgies à la Manhattan (1229) Boiled eggs (2856) Smoked beef with cream (1358) Lamb kidneys on skewers (1703) Mashed potatoes in snow (2798) Roast squabs with water-cress (2018) Bermuda onion salad (2665) 57 Fried soft shell crabs (1006) Scrambled eggs with Piedmont truffles (2948) Matelote of carp, Miroir (1204) Hashed mutton à la Omer Pacha (2297) Potatoes in surprise (2809) Broiled partridge, English style (2085) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Francillon cake (3305) 58 Hot potato salad (2654) Havanese omelet (2894) Stuffed carp à la Champenoise (1133) Paupiettes of tripe (1477) Lamb's head, vinaigrette sauce (1698) Small sirloin steak à la Bordelaise (1370) Potato cakes with ham (2779) Pèlerine tartlets (3335) 59 Cassolettes à la Montholon (861) Poached eggs à la Boëldieu (2925) Shoulder of lamb with purée of celery (1753) Baked cauliflower à la Béchamel (2715) Calf's brains, peasant style (1483) Cold asparagus, vinaigrette sauce (2692) Small Célestine omelet (3056) Dessert 60 Anchovy salad (772) Ham omelet with green peas (2893) Small green turtle baked (1092) Sheep's trotters à la poulette (1659) Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) Roasted squabs (2018) Water-cress salad with apples (2676) Dessert JUNE -BREAKFAST. 61 Omelet à la Andrews (2898) Bluefish, Havanese style (1118) Calf's brains in matelote (1482) Baked potatoes (2771) Clams, Philadelphia style (994) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Watercress and apple salad (2676) Baskets filled with oranges (3570) 62 Shrimps with mushrooms and tomatoes, Béarnaise (1081) Fried eggs with chopped parsley (2871) Angel fish à la Bahama (1094) Calf's lights à la Marinière (1529) Minced lamb à la Rivera (1719) Cauliflower with fried breadcrumbs (2718) Hamburg steak à la tartare (1361) Bordelaise potatoes, new (2775) 63 Shrimps in side dishes (819) Hard-boiled eggs with noodles à la Carolli (2860) Bluefish with mayonnaise and tarragon (1121) Paupiettes of fillet of mutton à la Delussan (1613) Slices of round of veal with gravy (1547) Green peas à la Fleurette (2741) Broiled duckling with green mayonnaise (1938) Crescents of noodles with cherries (3015) 64 Sweetbread canapés (857) Scrambled eggs with gravy (2940) Codfish cakes (1145) Oxtail, Alsatian style (1322) Lamb cutlets, Maintenon (1678) Mussels stuffed, Toulousian (1049) Roast pullet with water cress (1996) Dampfnoodles with cream (3030) 65 Cucumber fillets salted, Russian style (783) Eggs on a dish, Creole style (2913) Blackfish à la Orly (1114) Tendon of veal à la Bayeux (1581) Kidneys of lamb, stewed with Madeira and mushrooms (1704) Broiled squabs à la Crapaudine (2007) Potatoes sautéd with artichoke bottoms and truffles (2805) Border of rice with bananas (3005) 66 Crusts à la Morton (904) Omelet with caviare à la Stoeckel (2902) Sea bass with almond butter (1100) Crépine of lamb's trotters, Périgueux sauce (2242) Kohl-rabies, housekeeper's style (2708) Broiled chicken with bacon maître-d'hôtel (1830) Slices of fillet of veal, Pèlerine potatoes (1514) Cream pie (3201) 67 Anchovy salad (772) Perch, Polish style (1208) Mashed potatoes in snow (2798) Squab cutlets in papers (2270) Stuffed tomatoes, Provençal (2835) Asparagus tips à la Miranda (2696) Fresh cherry fritters (3042) Dessert 68 Tunny marinated (831) Onion and ham omelet (2900) Turkey wings with turnips (2043) Green peas, French style (2743) Baked tripe with parmesan cheese (1474) Artichoke bottoms à la Mornay (2680) Crusts with Madeira (3026) Dessert JULY -BREAKFAST. 69 Marinated sardines (817) Cheese omelet (2883) Pompano à la Duclair (1222) Anna potatoes (2770) Sausages with white wine (1807) Mussels à la poulette (1047) Duckling, green mayonnaise with fine herbs (1938) Columbia tartlets (3330) 70 Hard-boiled eggs à la Washburn (2862) Porgy paupiettes, Hindostan (1230) Lamb hash, Creole style (2295) Chicken legs à la Saulnière (1873) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Sirloin steak, ancient style (1373) Genoese cake merigued (3308) Dessert 71 Radishes (808) Molded fresh butter (775) Fried eggs with brown butter (2870) Blackfish à la Sanford (1115) Rump of beef, mirotons à la ménagère (1344) Purée of Jerusalem artichokes (704) Lamb salad à la Somer (2637) Chicken legs in papers (1876) Casino cakes (3293) 72 Scrambled eggs with lobster garnished with Villeroi mussels (2941) Baked kingfish (1186) Noisettes of mutton with cooked fine herbs (1612) Veal kidneys with white wine (1527) Beef, Chateaubriant maître d'hôtel (1382) Sarah potatoes (2802) Mirabeau rice (3213) Dessert 73 Fried shrimps (1080) Eggs on a dish, Fermière (2915) Brandade of salt codfish (1146) Lambs' crows, ravigote sauce (1668) Ribs of beef, old style (1332) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) Fruits à la Creole (3051) Dessert 74 Caviare canapés (777) Green omelet with fine herbs (2892) Deviled bluefish (1119) Clam pancakes or fritters (996) Calf's brains à la Chassaigne (1480) Mutton tendons with mushrooms (1656) Roasted squab with watercress (2018) Small babas with rum (3288) 75 Varenskis polonaise (993) Shad with sorrel purée (1256) Eggs au miroir à la Lully (2852) Lamb stew, Navarin (1755) Beef and tomato salad (2623) Baked hash of chicken (2293) Barigoule artichokes (2689) Printanier boats (cakes) (3291) 76 Poached eggs with spinach (2933) Pike perch à la Financière (1214) Breast of lamb with velouté tomato sauce (1665) White bean salad (2658) Sausages Gastronome (1802) Spare ribs, Parisian style (1808) Risot à la Ristori (2980) Fruits (3699) AUGUST -BREAKFAST. 77 Parsley omelet (2903) Butterfish marinated and fried (1127) Sausages with tomato Soubise sauce (1805) Potted pigeons (1965) Sliced leg of lamb à la Dordogne (1710) Cream potatoes baked (2781) Dessert 78 Canapés of herring, Russian style (777) Eggs au miroir à la Meyerbeer (2853) Kingfish on the dish (1187) Calf's liver à la Claremont (1530) Plain boiled potatoes (2774) Frog salad (2632) Madeira crusts (3026) Dessert 79 Fried eggs à la sole (2869) Fresh mackerel in papers, Mephisto (1192) Stewed lamb with turnips (1759) Calf's liver and bacon (1531) Provençal potatoes (2801) Venison fillets à la Lorenzo (2177) D'Artois cake with apricot marmalade (3302) Dessert 80 Celery vinaigrette (779) Eggs on a dish, Venetian style (2920) Bonito à la Godivier (1122) Tournedos of beef, Talabasse (1437) Potatoes, omelet shape (2806) Broiled reedbirds (2151) Condé cakes (3297) Dessert 81 Lobster canapés (777) Scrambled eggs à la Duxelle with anchovy croustade (2935) Salt codfish, Faraday crowns (1147) Minions of veal purée of artichokes (1509) Lamb hash à la Célestine, baked (2294) Broiled chicken with tarragon gravy (1831) Eggplant salad, Provençal (2663) Gooseberry tart (3309) 82 Omelet with clams (2885) Porgy with Chablis wine (1231) Tripe with cooked fine herbs (1478) Lamb fries, tomato sauce (1696) Baked cream potatoes (2780) Roast duck (1921) Valentine cake with rum (3265) Dessert 83 Salmon quenelles stuffed (2335) Tenderloin of beef with Madeira half glaze (1425) Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) Frog's legs à la d'Antin (1017) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Omelet stuffed with preserves (glazed) (3067) Cheese (3697) Fruits (3699) 84 Anchovy butter canapés (777) Shrimp omelet (2906) Pike perch à la Géraldin (1215) Noisettes of tenderloin à la Berthier (1411) Chicken quenelles à la Drew (2326) Kernel of veal à la Duchesse (1520) Gooseberry tart (3309) Dessert SEPTEMBER -BREAKFAST. 85 Broiled eels, tartar sauce (1150) Omelet with mushrooms (2899) Hashed tenderloin of beef, Sheppler (2289) Chipolata sausages (1801) Partridge à la Baudrimont (2093) Italian salad (2635) Hollandaise potatoes with melted butter (2790) Gooseberry flawn (3173) 86 Blackfish à la Villaret (1116) Scrambled eggs à la Columbus (2934) Yearling lamb cutlets in crépinette (1691) Veal, minced Sicilian style (1544) Parsnip cakes fried in butter (2767) Beefsteak à la Périgueux (1376) Baked Biarritz potatoes (2772) Pancakes with orange-flower water (3078) 87 Sardine canapés (777) Fried eggs with ham or bacon (2872) Buffalo fish, cream sauce (1126) Marshal potatoes (2796) Partridge with olives (2103) Slices of fillet of mutton maître-d'hôtel (1614) Peeled tomato salad (2666) Pumpkin pie (3203) 88 Shrimps in side dishes (819) Omelet with sausages (2905) Picked-up codfish with cream (1148) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Venison cutlets deviled (2173) Cèpes, Provençal style (2723) Broiled plovers (2118) Vanilla Chantilly éclairs (3304) 89 Oysters on half shell (803) Small trout marinated in wine (829) Eggs on a dish, Omer Pacha (2917) Lafayette fish breaded, English style (1188) Turkey giblets, peasant style (2034) Calf's brains crépinettes (2244) Julienne potatoes (2792) Peach with rice tartlets (3334) 90 Shrimp canapés (777) Argentine omelet (2878) Bluefish in papers (1120) Stewed lamb, Peruvian style (1757) Partridge with sauerkraut (2104) Spare ribs, Parisian style (1808) Biarritz potatoes (2772) Semolina croquettes, pistachio sauce (3019) 91 Spotted fish, mussel sauce (1284) Shoulder of mutton with turnips (1654) Black blood pudding (1772) Gosling sautéd with tomatoes, Robert sauce (1953) Baked noodles (2971) Minced venison (2184) Broiled grouse (2071) Dessert 92 Poached eggs, matelote (2930) Mackerel, with white piquante sauce (1194) Tripe, Parisian style (1476) Venison hash, American style (2301) White beans, maître-d'hôtel (2701) Broiled reedbirds (2151) Fresh fruits (3699) Dessert OCTOBER -BREAKFAST. 93 Spinal marrow à la Barnave (1548) Omelet with fine herbs (2889) Redsnapper à la Chérot (1232) Gastronome potatoes (2789) Pork cutlets half glaze and with apples (1777) Scallops à la Marinière (1076) Round steak with water-cress (1366) Cream cakes with whipped cream (3296) 94 Alligator pears (771) Scrambled eggs à la Jérôme (2936) Pork chops, Castillane sauce (1778) Lyonnese potatoes (2794) Calf's liver with fine herbs (1533) Red cabbage salad (2659) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) 95 Fried shrimps (1080) Omelet with ham and green peas (2893) Kingfish à la Bordelaise (1181) Veal hash cakes, Brittany style (2300) Beetroot fritters with cream (2702) Yearling lamb cutlets (1669) Potatoes fried and channeled (2787) Coffee (3701) 96 Windsor canapés (777) Omelet with kidneys (2897) Buffalo fish, cream sauce (1126) Breast of pork with cabbage (1773) Calf's liver, Italian style (1532) Roasted plovers (2119) Potatoes, housekeeper's style (2791) Cannelons à la Célestine (3292) 97 Tongue canapés (777) Eggs on a dish with chopped ham (2923) Fisherman's Matelote (1205) Mutton kidneys à la Soubise (1617) Broiled tripe, tartar sauce (1473) Ruddy duck roasted (2066) Creamed potatoes (2781) Apricot cakes with cream of almonds (3287) 98 Canapés with sliced salmon (777) Fried eggs, Neapolitan style (2868) Mullet, D'Antin sauce (1206) Calf's brains with Venetian sauce (1486) Pullet legs à la Bayonnaise (2003) Mutton chops Soyer (1591) Provençal potatoes (2801) Biscuits in cases with cream (3289) 99 Poached eggs with gravy (2931) Cupola of salt codfish, Biscaïenne (2254) Lamb stewed with turnips (1759) Baked cauliflower with cheese (2717) Corned beef hash (2290) Omelet soufflé with preserves (3065) Coffee (3701) Dessert 100 Pike perch, Russian style (1217) Oyster patties (939) Lamb minion fillet pudding à la Gladstone (2323) String beans with butter (2829) Salisbury steak (1359) Mundane fritters (3044) Fruits (3699) Dessert NOVEMBER -BREAKFAST. 101 Crawfish canapés (777) Omelet with frogs (2890) Fresh herring à la Calaisienne (1174) Pork cutlets, gherkin sauce (1781) Chicken legs, purée of Jerusalem artichokes (1877) Porterhouse steak (1362) Potato cakes (2778) Crescents with preserves (3298) 102 Oysters tartare (804) Eggs on a dish, Plumerey (2918) Red snapper à la Princess (1236) Hashed partridge Clémenceau style (2298) Kulash à la Finnoise (1318) Broiled chicken with bacon maître-d'hôtel (1830) Baked Biarritz potatoes (2772) D'Artois cake with apricot marmalade (3302) 103 Beets marinated (774) Soft eggs with purée of sorrel (2951) Maskinonge à la Providence (1207) Potato croquettes maïsienne (2782) Beef palate à la Béchamel (1326) Minced partridge with rice (2091) Redhead duck roasted (2063) Goronflot (3310) 104 Anchovy canapés (777) Omelet of beef palate (2880) Fresh mackerel, Bonnefoy (1191) Jugged venison (2180) Flat sausage broiled with tomato Soubise sauce (1805) Delmonico sirloin steak, plain (1375) Potato tartlets (2810) Marrow frangipane pie (3088) 105 Fried eels, tartar sauce (1150) Scrambled eggs with Swiss cheese (2944) Calf's tails with cabbage (1580) Zampino, Modena style with string beans (1820) Mutton cutlets à la Bouchère (1593) Potatoes half glaze (2784) Broiled teal duck (2067) German pancake (3074) 106 Boiled perch, Valois sauce (1209) Omelet with smoked herring (2895) Calf's head à la poulette (1516) Troyes, Chitterlings (1775) Rib steak of beef à la Royer (1365) Potatoes, housekeeper's style (2791) Woodcock roasted (2206) Wells of love (3338) 107 Molded eggs in cases à l'Échiquier (2875) Pike perch à la Royale (1216) Breast of mutton (haricot) with turnips (1588) Jugged rabbit with blood (2141) Marinated pork tenderloin (1815) Celery salad (2660) Puff paste galette (3306) Stewed fruits (3686) 108 Whitefish à la Gherardi (1311) Eggs molded à la Parisian (2876) Mutton kidneys on skewers, Bordelaise sauce (1619) Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) Tripe à la mode de Caen (1471) Stuffed tomatoes with fresh mushrooms (2842) Cheese (3697) DECEMBER -BREAKFAST. 109 Bartholomew canapés (852) Fried eggs à la Montebello (2867) Wall eyed pike à la Durance (1213) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Cromesquis of sweetbreads, Babanine (872) Young rabbit, Valencia style (2139) Corn salad (2669) Darioles with vanilla (3301) 110 Sardine canapés (777) Omelet with onions and ham (2900) Fresh herrings mustard sauce (1175) Woodcock pudding (2325) Bag sausage fried (1803) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Galettes, half puffed (3306) 111 Smoked salmon canapés (777) Eels fried with butter and fine herbs (1151) Scrambled eggs à la Martinez (2937) Oxtail à la Castellane (1320) Bussy potatoes (2777) Broiled canvasback duck (2054) Oyster plant salad (2656) Lafayette cakes with rum (3133) 112 Onion soup with Parmesan cheese (331) German carp with sauerkraut (1132) Omelet with bacon (2879) Blanquette of tenderloin of pork with mushrooms (1814) Minion fillets of lamb, shallot sauce with marrow (1727) Potatoes, housekeeper's style (2791) Blackhead duck roasted (2052) Celery salad (2660) Demonet tartlets (3331) 113 Canapés of herring (777) Oyster omelet (2901) Whitefish, pimentade sauce (1312) Round buttock top of beef baked (1335) Viennese potatoes (2812) Roasted pullet with water cress (1996) Apple fritters, Montagnard (3037) Mince pie (3089) 114 Frostfish, Cherbourg style (1159) Eggs on a dish with bacon (2921) Tripe à la poulette with mushrooms (1472) Paupiettes of fillets of veal à la Whittier (1511) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Squabs poupeton, Ancient style (2112) Monk's beard salad (2674) Madelenes with rum (3316) 115 Rissoles of crawfish à la Béatrice (949) Hunter's omelet (2896) Chicken sautéd à la Sherman (2468) Minced tenderloin of beef, Creole style (1397) Roast duck (1921) Lettuce salad (2672) Cheese (3697) 116 Scrambled eggs with sweetbreads (2943) Lamb fries, cream horseradish sauce (1696) Mellow potatoes (2799) Braised duck with olives (1924) Cèpes baked with cream (2724) Cheese (3697) Dessert BILL OF FARE FOR INVALIDS. Arrow root, Indian (361) Bavaroise (362) Chicken broth, plain (363) Chicken and mutton broth with barley (364) Chicken and veal broth (365) Clam broth and purée (366) Custard cream of chicken or game (367) Extract of beef, clarified (369) Extract of beef, plain (368) Fish broth with clams (370) Frog broth and purée (371) Herb broth (372) Jelly of chicken and calf's feet (373) Jelly of meat and calf's feet (374) Jelly of calf's feet with Madeira wine (374) Mulled egg and almond milk thickened with rice flour (376) Mutton broth (375) Pressed beef juice (377) Purée of barley with chicken broth (378) Purée of chicken, partridge, grouse or roebuck (379) Purée of oatmeal or wheaten grits (380) Sabayon of chicken or game (381) Tea of beef, mutton, chicken or veal (382) Veal broth, refreshing (383) Wheat, oat or barley broth (384) 117 JANVIER. LUNCH, 12 COUVERTS. MENU. Barsac Écrevisses vinaigrette (782) Caviar garni de citrons (778) Huîtres sur coquilles creuses (803) Bouillon en tasses (187) Champagne Perrier Jouet Homard à la crème (1044) Tournedos filet de bœuf à la Roqueplan (1436) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Ris de veau à la Parisienne (1576) Macédoine à la Montigny (2755) Terrapène à la Maryland (1085) Château Lagrange Cailles grillées garnies de cresson (2128) Mousseline de foies gras à la Dana (2535) Salade de laitue (2672) Champagne Glace soufflée Favart (3534) Macarons d'angélique (3380) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Café (3701) 118 FèVRIER. LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. MENU. Xérès Canapés de saumon (777) Mortadella (818) Château Yquem Consommé de volaille (190) Côtelettes de filet de bœuf à la Babanine (2255) Tomates à la Trévise (2836) Champagne Dry Monopole Poulet sauté à la Marcel (1892) >Petits Pois à la Parisienne (2745) Champignons sous cloche (2761) Château Larose Punch, Favorite (3508) Becassines rôties (2159) Salade de cresson (2676) Omelette soufflée aux pommes (3063) Gelée à la Rose (3181) Charlotte Russe (3145) Glace pommes de terre farcies sauce marasquin (3275) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 119 MARS. LUNCH, 10 COUVERTS. MENU. Haut Sauterne Thon mariné (831) Céleri rave (779) Consommé (189) Canapés Lorenzo (855) Champagne Perrier Jouet Brut Queues de petites langoustes à la Monte Carlo (1036) Côtelettes d'agneau Robinson (1685) Petits pois aux laitues (2746) Terrapène Baltimore (1083) Pontet Canet Pigeonneaux grillés, sauce Colbert (2013) Galantine de faisan découpée (2495) Salade de laitue (2672) Omelette soufflée à la Vanille (3066) Glace pouding, Diplomate (3491) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 120 AVRIL. LUNCH, 14 COUVERTS. MENU. Graves Punch orange à la Russe (3613) Canapés d'anchois (777) Consommé en tasses (189) St. Estèphe Crabes d'huître Salamandre (1005) Côtelettes d'agneau à la Clémentine (1673) Pommes de terre fondanates (2799) Asperges à la sauce Hollandaise (2692) Champagne Mumm Extra Dry Poulet rôti à la casserole (1881) Pâté de jambon (2558) Salade de romaine (2675) Mazarine à l'ananas et au kirsch (3053) Gâteau St. Honoré Sultane (3261) Plombière Richemont (3481) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Liqueurs Café (3701) 121 MAI. LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. MENU. Lafaurie Consommé en tasses (189) Canapés de caviar (777) Coquilles de homard (2348) Champagne Louis Rœderer Ailes de poulet à la Génin (1843) Petits pois à la Parisienne (2745) Ris de veau à la St. Cloud (1566) Tomates farcies aux champignons (2842) Batailly Poulet grillé au petit salé (1830) Galantine de caneton en forme de poire (2487) Salade de laitue (2672) Omelette fourrée aux fraises (3068) Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Glace mousse Sémiramis (3471) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 122 JUIN. LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. MENU. Chablis Vieux Fonds d'artichauts printaniers (773) Bouillon (187) Moules à la Villeroi (1048) St. Pierre Noisettes de filet de bœuf à la Maire (1415) Aubergines à la Duperret (2735) Champagne Pommery Sec Ailes de poulet à la Harrison (1844) Concombres farcis (2734) Asperges sauce Hollandaise (2692) Sorbet Tosca (3519) Nuits Pigeonneaux rôtis à la casserole (2018) Salade de laitue (2672) Omelette soufflée aux amandes (3062) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Gâteaux japonais (3347) Café (3701) 123 JUILLET. LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. MENU. Xérès et Bitter Accola (831) Betteraves (774) Lucines orangér (803) Chablis Homards rôtis à la broche (1040) Concombres à l'Anglaise (2661) Champagne Cliquot Sec Escalopes de ris de veau Carême (2284) Maïs bouilli en tige (2730) Chaudfroid de poularde (2458) Salade de laitue (2672) Omelette soufflée légère (3061) Gâteau Fleury (3237) Framboises à la crème (3699) Glace pouding Diplomate (3491) Petits fours (3364) Fromage (3697) Café Gramt au cognac glacé (3609) 124 AOûT. LUNCH, 12 COUVERTS. MENU. Xérès et Bitter Salade d'anchois (772) Cornichons (785) Timbales Chevalière (963) Niesteiner Crabes moux grillés au beurre ravigote (1006) Concombres marinés (2661) Pontet Canet Mignons de filet de bœuf Baillard (1400) Crème de pommes de terre au gratin (2781) Champagne Irroy Brut Ailes de poulet Valerri (1856) Petits pois à la française (2743) Beaune Canetons rôtis (1938) Pâté de foies gras découpé (2563) Salade de laitue (2672) Beignets de cerises (3042) Glace Spongade Parépa (3537) Liqueurs Café (3701) Claret cup Villars (3712) 125 SEPTEMBRE. LUNCH, 16 COUVERTS. MENU. Haut Sauterne Éperlans marinés (821) Olives (800) Consommé de volaille (190) Château Couffran Homard à la Camille (1028) Noisettes de filet de bœuf Triumvir (1419) Riz à l'Orientale (2978) Filets de poulet à la Gallier (2466) Haricots verts sautés (2829) Champagne Perrier Jouet Spécial Pâté de cailles à la gelée (2565) Salade de romaine (2675) Omelette soufflée aux macarons ((3064) Gelée tunisienne rubanée (3184) Fruits (3699) Compote (3686) Café (3701) 126 OCTOBRE. LUNCH, 14 COUVERTS. MENU. Xérès et Bitter Ròties Waddington (826) Truffes à l'huile (830) Consommé (189) Liebfraumilch Coquilles de queues d'écrevisses (2341) Côtelettes de chevreuil Buridan (2170) Petits pois à la ménagère (2744) Champagne Riunart Brut Pigeonneaux frits sauce Figaro (2017) Cèpes à la Provençale (2723) Pluviers grillés, sauce Colbert (2118) Madère Chaudfroid de dinde à la Périgord (2462) Salade d'Escarole (2671) Impérial Gâteau Vacherin à la crème (3264) Glace délicieux aux noisettes (3592) Liqueurs Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 127 NOVEMBRE. LUNCH, 18 COUVERTS. MENU. Xérès et Bitter Piments doux d'Espagne (806) Jambon de Westphalie (786) Consommé en tasses (189) Canapés Martha (856) Château Lagrange Huîtres à la Béarnaise tomatée (1052) Mignons de filet de bœuf Dumas (1402) Pommes de terre fondantes (2799) Bécassines farcies Bordelaise (2160) Tomates Boquillon (2833) Champagne Delmonico Coquilles de ris de veau à la Harper (2357) Sorbet Jeune Amérique (3530) Nuits Cailles grillées (2128) Terrine entière de foies gras en aspic (2413) Salade de laitue (2672) Glace soufflée à l'Alcazar (3533) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 128 DECEMBRE. LUNCH, 12 COUVERTS. MENU. Sauterne Première Saumon fumé (822) Tartelettes de gibier (825) Huîtres crues (803) Consommé en tasses (189) Homards Provençale (1039) St. Julien Supérieur Noisettes de filet de bœuf Berthier (1411) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Terrapène au madère (1090) Clicquot Sec Perdreaux grillés à l'Anglaise (2085) Terrine de mauviettes (2599) Salade d'escarole (2671) Omelette soufflée à l'Ancienne (3060) Flan de pommes Manhattan (3034) Riz Mirabeau (3213) Glace plombière d'Alençon (3483) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) JANUARY -LUNCH. 129 Oysters à la Béarnaise tomatoed (1052) Escalops of fat livers with risot, Périgueux sauce (2281) Eggs cocottes (2873) Broiled quails (2128) Endive salad (2671) Meringue flawn (3174) Dessert 130 Scallops Brestoise (1074) Surtout of chicken livers with mushrooms (2367) Green peas, French style (2743) Broiled woodcock (2204) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Mocha cake (3249) Apples Dessert 131 Baked scallops on toast (1078) Loin pork pie, English style (2378) Broiled ruddy duck (2067) Celery salad (2660) Glazed apple marmalade (3125) Roasted chestnuts Dessert 132 Baked oysters à la Crane (1057) Small patties with gravy (2318) Minced partridge (2090) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) Broiled grouse (2071) Babas with rum (3288) Malaga grapes 133 Oysters à la Boucicault (1053) Veal palates, Epicurean style (1540) Roasted stuffed squabs (2018) Lettuce salad (2672) Banana crusts à la Panama (3023) Grape fruit Dessert 134 Scallops Marinière (1076) Crépinettes of chicken, Turenne (2245) Broiled canvasback (2054) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Fruit flawn (3172) Florida oranges Dessert 135 Scallops Hâvraise (1075) Skewers of chicken livers, Colbert sauce (2222) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Broiled partridges, English style (2085) Lettuce salad (2672) Château framboisé (3141) Pears 136 Curried oysters, Indian style (1071) Shells of chicken (2345) Julienne potatoes (2792) Broiled teal duck (2067) Endive salad (2671) Pineapple Dessert FEBRUARY -LUNCH. 137 Oyster rissolettes, Pompadour (956) Beefsteak, Bordelaise with marrow and truffles (1372) Roast reedbirds with cresses (2152) Cauliflower salad mayonnaise (2649) Venetian lemon custard pie (3202) Chestnut Plombière (3486) Grape fruit Dessert 138 Border of risot of lobsters (2213) Minion fillets of spring lamb à la Benoist (1720) Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) Broiled ptarmigans (2071) Cucumber salad (2661) Rice soufflé with maraschino (3121) Roasted chestnuts Dessert 139 Lobster à la Bonnefoy (1026) Minced beef à la Beekman (1396) Baked cauliflower with cheese (2717) Roast squabs (2018) Lettuce salad (2672) Printanier boats (cakes) (3291) Apples Dessert 140 Fried soft clams (998) Lamb cutlets with string beans (1693) Marrow squash with Parmesan (2824) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Endive salad (2671) Small savarin cakes (3324) Roman bomb (3442) Bananas 141 Anchovy canapés (777) Lobster, Paul Bert (1038) Pork chops with apple croquettes (1779) Potato and beetroot salad (2652) Broiled teal ducks (2067) Jealousy cakes (3311) Malaga grapes Dessert 142 Crusts of fat livers (905) Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) Baked noodles (2971) Broiled ptarmigan (2071) Chicory salad (2668) Meringued omelet with fruits (3069) Florida oranges Dessert 143 Oysters (803) Cromesquis of striped bass (870) Broiled breaded lamb cutlets with gravy (1690) Green peas, French style (2743) Broiled redhead ducks (2063) Tomato salad (2666) Custard in a dish (3159) Pineapple Dessert 144 Oysters (803) Scallops breaded with milk and fried (1077) Veal cutlets with fine herbs (1504) Roast tame duck (1921) Water-cress salad (2676) Floating Islands (eggs) (3163) Syruped baba (3227) Pomegranates Dessert MARCH -LUNCH. 145 Scallops breaded with eggs and fried (1077) Veal pie à la Dickens (2380) Artichoke bottoms, Villars (2682) Broiled duckling (1938) Chicory salad (2668) Rice soufflé with maraschino (3121) Pineapple 146 Small lobster, Bordelaise (1025) Fricassee of turkey wings baked (2038) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) Broiled reedbirds (2151) Endive salad (2668) Meringued apples, Nubian (2996) Malaga grapes 147 Stuffed oysters, Mornay (1069) Terrapin, ancient style (1087) Artichokes, Rachel (2690) Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) Small orange soufflés in cases (3120) Milk punch iced (3511) Bananas 148 Lobster with cream (1044) Squabs roasted in the saucepan (2018) Eggplant à la Robertson (2737) Small aspics of foies gras (2412) Apple flawn, latticed (3169) Strawberries Dessert 149 Consommé in cups (189) Stuffed small lobster tails (1043) Terrapin, Newberg (1086) Small "pains" of chicken à l'Écarlate (2543) Meringued omelet with fruits (3069) Grape fruit Dessert 150 Oysters with Parmesan (1073) Pork cutlets with apples (1777) Mushrooms sautéd with butter (2760) Roast English pheasants adorned with their own plumage (2107) Eggs with coffee cream meringued (3033) Florida oranges Dessert 151 Oysters à la Rubino (1055) Chicken croquettes, Exquisite (877) Asparagus, vinaigrette (2692) Roast thrushes (2166) Lettuce salad (2672) 152 Lobster à la Hervey (1034) Terrapin à la Crisfield (1084) Italian salad (2635) Crépinettes of pigeons, poivrade sauce with truffle essence (No. 2246) Madeira crusts (3026) Bavarois with meringues (3133) Pears APRIL -LUNCH. 153 Caviare (778) Scallops à la Bréstoise (1074) Grenadins of beef with sweet peppers (1394) Noodles with fried bread-crumbs (2973) Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2013) Stuffed eggs (sweet) (3031) Grape fruit Dessert 154 Oysters on the deep shell (803) Lobster à la Rougemont (1041) Vienna Schnitzel, German style (1512) Green peas with braised lettuces (2746) Timbales of chicken, Parisian style (2382) Soufflés in cases with vanilla (3120) Oranges Dessert 155 Crusts à la Génoise (904) Deviled lobster (1043) Lamb steak, maître-d'hôtel (1713) Baked tomatoes (2837) Chaudfroid of larks (2454) Floating island(3163) Hot-house grapes 156 Radishes (808) Fresh butter (775) Croustades of lamb's sweetbreads (2251) Broiled teal duck (2067) Potatoes in surprise (2809) Cake stuffed with apricots (3325) Cream cakes iced with vanilla (3294) Bananas 157 Oysters on crusts (1062) Escalops of beef palates, chestnut purée (2277) Croustades of chicken livers with Madeira (2250) Tomatoes à la Trévise (2836) Squabs Crapaudine (2007) Cream pie (3201) Apples 158 Julienne soup, Faubonne (318) Quenelles of turkey, Providence (2336) Minion fillets of lamb, Landgrave (1721) Artichoke bottoms, Florence (2677) Larks à la Maréchale (2081) Meringued pancakes, Rossini (3073) Pineapple 159 Pickled oysters (802) Lobster tails à la Stanley (1042) King's pilau of lamb (1709) Fried frog's legs, cream sauce (1022) Hot pie, Bontoux style (2314) Genoese cake (3307) Strawberries 160 Oysters and lemons (803) Cream of peas à la St. Germain (260) Breast of lamb, chopped sauce (1663) Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) Boudins of chicken, Soubise (2215) Baked apples (2992) Grape fruit MAY -LUNCH. 161 Clam pancakes or fritters (996) Small patties, Mazarin (944) Épigrammes of lamb à la Toulouse (1694) Broiled squabs (2013) Lettuce salad (2672) Surprise of fruits, frothy sauce (3211) Apples 162 Colombines of chicken liver with ham (865) Deviled frog's legs (1020) Patties à l'Andalouse (934) Slices of lamb, Prévillot (1711) Broiled ptarmigans(2071) Chicory salad (2668) Almondine tartlets (3326) Hot-house grapes 163 Quenelles of fish, Montglas (2330) Sweetbread croquettes (893) Roast tame duck (1921) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Cream macaroons in cases (3383) Spanish oranges 164 Boudins of pickerel à la Walton (844) Benoîton shells (2339) Sweetbreads in papers (1573) Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Apricots with cream of almonds (3287) Bananas 165 Lobster, Monte Carlo (1036) Palmettes of ham à l'Aquitaine (927) Chaudfroid of chicken, Clara Morris (2451) Ptarmigans (2071) Lettuce salad (2672) Crescents with preserves (3298) Hot-house peaches 166 Brissotins of chicken, supreme sauce (849) Sweetbreads on skewers (2226) Parisian green peas (2745) Roast duck (1921) Endive salad (2671) Apple croquettes, Trimalcion (3016) Pineapple 167 Crusts à la d'Hénin (904) Célestines with foies-gras and purée of chestnuts (862) Squab cutlets, Périgueux (2267) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Minions of tenderloin of beef, Stanley (1406) Mellow potatoes (2799) Lady bouchées with strawberries (3376) 168 Lobster à la Frèsne (1032) Junot palmettes (921) Minion fillets of lamb in surprise (1725) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Strawberry short cake (3262) Biscuits in cases with cream (3289) Pears JUNE -LUNCH. 169 Lobster à la Delmonico (1037) Timbales Mentana (974) Mutton cutlets with chicory (1602) Artichoke bottoms, Montglas (2679) Croquettes of capon à la Royal (876) Coffee cream éclairs (3303) Cherries 170 Lobster, Paul Bert (1038) Varsovian palmettes (924) Breast of beef à la Florence (1314) Stuffed tomatoes baked (2837) Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce (2692) Bordelaise tartlets (3328) Hot-house grapes 171 Clam chowder (300) Shells of calf's brains (2355) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef, Berthier (1411) Broiled duckling (1938) Macédoine salad (2650) Strawberries and cream Peaches 172 Soft shell crabs, sautéd in butter (1006) Lamb cutlets à la Durand (1674) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) Italian salad (2635) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Rice border with bananas (3005) Grape fruit 173 Frog's legs fried with cream sauce (1022) Small puff paste salmon patties (945) Minion fillets of lamb, Lefort (1722) Roast squabs (2018) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Goronflot cakes (3310) Bananas 174 Cromesquis of mussels (873) Soft crabs, sautéd (1006) Tournedos of beef à la Hutching (1433) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Lettuce salad (2672) Strawberry ice cream (3451) Pineapple 175 Bressoles of fat livers (848) Shells of squabs, baked (2356) Broiled partridges, English style (2085) Tomatoes stuffed with fresh mushrooms (2842) Aspics of foies gras (2411) Strawberry short cake (3262) Raspberries 176 Clams, Philadelphia style (994) Cassolettes, Lusigny (860) Small "pains" of chicken à l'Écarlate (2543) Ducklings, Rouennaise (1937) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Meringued croustades of Venice (3020) Strawberries JULY -LUNCH. 177 Shells of lobster (2348) Squab cutlets, Périgueux (2267) Potato cakes (2778) Lamb minion fillet pie à la Manning (2373) Small vanilla soufflés in cases (3120) Cream cheese (3698) 178 Pickled alligator pears (771) Soft clams on skewers (999) Noisettes of plain tenderloin of beef (1410) String beans, à la Pettit (2827) Roasted reedbirds (2152) Cream cakes iced with chocolate (3294) Apricots 179 Little Neck clams à la poulette (995) Sweetbread patties, French style (940) Grenadins of beef as venison (1388) Frog's legs fried à la Horly (1021) Savarin with apricots (3117) Marly cake (3246) Blackberries 180 Frog's legs à la Osborn (1018) Soft shell crabs sautéd in butter (1006) Chicken cutlets à la Clarence (2258) Corn cut up (2731) Potted tenderloin of beef à la Nelson (2320) Turkish coffee (3702) Cherries 181 Lobster tart à la Hérault (2374) Cases of squabs, Umberto (2234) Boiled corn on the cob (2730) Small roasted spring chickens as an entrée (1908) Lettuce salad (2672) Surprise of fruits (3211) Gooseberries 182 Croustades of gnocquis, Rivoli (899) Border of risot of lobster (2213) Pigeon tart à la Britannia (2377) Broiled duckling (1938) Celery salad (2660) Iced banana pudding (3487) Currants 183 Stuffed clams (997) Frog's legs à la d'Antin (1017) Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy (1575) Surtout of wild pigeons (2368) Timbale à la Nantaise (2381) Molded snow eggs (3164) Bananas 184 Olives stuffed with anchovies (801) Lobster brochettes (2224) Cases of sweetbreads, Grammont (2235) Broiled chickens with tarragon sauce (1831) Small Quillet cakes (3397) Muskmelon Cheese AUGUST -LUNCH. 185 Lobster, American style (1024) Pigeons braised with green peas (1969) Timbales of sweetbreads, modern (2388) Cream cakes iced with coffee (3294) Raspberry water-ice (3607) Peaches. 186 Kulibiac, Russian style (908) Lobster à la Lawrence (1035) Beef pie à la Perez (2369) Shells of mussels (2349) Raspberry soufflé (3122) Cheese 187 Frog's legs à la poulette with mushrooms (1019) Pilau of chicken (1878) Lobster à la Gambetta (1033) Tournedos of fillet of beef, Brétigny (1431) Savarin à la Valence (3259) Cheese 188 Lobster à la Camille (1028) Escalops of veal à la Arnold (2285) Smothered string beans (2828) Timbale for epicures (2383) Peach marmalade pancakes macédoine (3075) Pears 189 "Pain" of pike (2307) Lobster, mayonnaise (2534) Squabs, Stauislas (2011) Green peas, English style (2742) Noisettes of shoulder of lamb, Epicurean (1730) Parfait with nougat and with almonds (3478) Plums 190 Cromesquis of beef palate (867) Fried sweetbreads, Neapolitan style (1562) Shells of frog's legs (2347) Japanese salad (2636) Cannelons à la Célestine (3292) Cheese 191 Oysters with fine herbs (1072) Lobster à la Britannia (1027) Fried chicken, Médicis (1870) Small vol-au-vent, Delmontés (2403) Cream cakes with St. Honoré cream (3296) Apricots 192 Shells filled with crawfish tails (2341) Beef palate tourte, Parisian style (2390) Squabs sautéd à l'Impromptu (2010) Sarah potatoes (2802) Sweetbread fritters, cream sauce (1572) Water melon on ice Raspberries. SEPTEMBER -LUNCH. 193 Alligator pears (771) Boudins of game, Berchoux (2218) Oysters à la Rubino (1055) Épigrammes of mutton à la Jardinière (1607) Timbale of pullet (2386) Iced soufflés, Favart (3534) 194 Oysters in cases à la Hilton (2231) Patties with Régence salpicon (943) Sirloin steak for gourmets (1378) Squabs roasted in earthenware saucepan (2018) Fiori di latte à la Bellini (3467) Apples 195 Shrimp patties (935) Tournedos of tenderloin of beef à la Roqueplan (1436) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Broiled partridges, Colbert sauce (2099) Francillon cakes (3305) Cheese 196 Oysters sauted with fine herbs (1072) Cromesquis of sweetbreads, Babanine (872) Broiled eggplant, Duperret (2735) Breasts of grouse à la Czarina (2073) Marillan cakes (3317) Bananas 197 Cromesquis of game, Stanislas (871) Shells of shrimps with oyster crabs (2342) Chateaubriand, with souffléd potatoes (1383) Iced pudding, Constantice (3490) Cocoanut 198 Fried soft clams with parsley (998) Blanquette of pullet with mushrooms (1997) Slices of kernel of venison à la Hussard (2181) Small aspics of foies-gras (2412) Démonet tartlets (3331) Cheese 199 Consommé (189) Lobster à la Dugléré (1031) Timbale of squabs à la Berchoux (2387) Lamb cutlets, Murillo (1681) Cream with apples (3014) Cheese. 200 Strained okra soup (299) Baked oysters à la Crane (1057) Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) Chicken Écarlate à la Derenne (2463) Apples, Baron de Brisse style (2993) Concord grapes OCTOBER -LUNCH. 201 Crawfish tails in shells (2341) Chicken fricassee (1861) Venison cutlets, tomato Parisian sauce (2174) Tomatoes stuffed with fresh mushrooms (2842) Condé peaches (3081) Watermelon 202 Stuffed oysters, Mornay (1069) Crusts of woodcock (906) Artichoke bottoms à la Florence (2677) Cream of lobster (2470) Jelly cake meringued (3243) Cheese 203 Shells of oysters in their natural shells (2351) Mutton cutlets with marinade (1604) String bean salad (2657) Chicken pie, Australian style (2372) Alliance fritters (3036) Barberries 204 Oysters in cases à la Lorenzo (2232) Venison cutlets with chestnut purée (2175) Soufflé of chicken à la Delsart (2360) Broiled teal duck (2067) Frascati biscuits (3004) Muskmelon 205 Brissotins of game, Lyonnese (850) Lobster à la Ravigote (2531) Green peas, English style (2742) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef with purée of mushrooms (1420) Peach ice cream à la Herbster (3453) Huckleberries 206 Shells of oysters with fried bread (2353) Salmis of partridge cold (2574) Croustade à la Périgueux (897) Italian salad (2635) Roasted woodcocks (2206) Souffléd omelet with vanilla (3066) Cheese 207 Fried soft clams (998) Patties with purée of game (936) Shells of terrapin with hazel-nuts (2358) Broiled snipe (2157) Frothy purée of apples (3127) Spanish oranges 208 Shells of oysters baked in their shells (2350) Épigrammes of lamb, ancient style (1695) Timbales of pullet (2386) Plain Delmonico sirloin steak (1375) Lamb's lettuce salad (2669) Preserved quinces (3685) NOVEMBER -LUNCH. 209 Steamed oysters (1064) Lobster à la Creole (1029) Rib steak à la Bercy (1364) Galantine of pheasant, sliced (2495) Roast chicken garnished with water-cresses (1881). Rice border with bananas (3005) Dessert 210 Venison cutlets à la Cauchoise (2171) Croustades of reedbirds (2252) Terrapin, Maryland Club (1088) Redhead duck roasted (2063) Lettuce salad (2672) Nesselrode pudding with candied chestnuts (3495) Dessert 211 Oysters in shells roasted (2352) Croustades à la Périgueux (897) Rabbit pie with fine herbs (2379) Roasted teal ducks(2068) Peaches à la Stevens (3084) Dessert 212 Oyster brochettes (2225) Cromesquis of capon (868) Breast of veal à la Mondoux (1488) Young rabbit fillets, currant sauce (2145) Terrapin à la Philadelphia (1085) Cream of almond rissoles (3116) Bananas 213 Scallops, Horly (1077) Croustades à la Morgan (902) Veal cutlets, half glaze (1499) Celery knob salad (2660) Roasted ruddy ducks (2066) Genoese Madeleines (3314) Roast chestnuts 214 Shells of scallops, Parisian style (2354) Crépine of young rabbit (2249) Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy (1575) Quenelles of turkey à la Providence (2336) Roasted woodcock (2206) Cream cakes with burnt almonds (3295) Pomegranates 215 White cabbage, English style (776) Cromesquis à la Rumford (869) Shells of terrapin with hazel-nuts (2358) Small vol-au-vent of reedbirds, Diplomate (2407) Broiled young wild rabbit backs (2149) Tutti-frutti ice cream (3586) Stewed quinces 216 Marinated Gurnet (831) Patties à la Reine (938) Small sirloin à la Béarnaise (1369) Frog's legs à la Royer (1023) Broiled teal duck (2067) Guanabana water-ice (3603) Cheese DECEMBER -LUNCH. 217 Curried oysters, Indian style (1071) Lobster cutlets à la Shelley (2261) Baked macaroni (2959) Cold quail pie (2565) Asparagus salad (2621) Croquettes à la Trimalcion (3016) Cocoanut 218 "Pain" of crawfish, Chartreuse (2305) Terrapin à la Crisfield (1084) Timbale of young hare (2389) Tenderloin of beef with olives (1428) Chestnut and vanilla soufflé (3118) Cheese 219 Oyster crab patties (935) Minion fillets of lamb as venison (1723) Lobster with mayonnaise (2534) Loin of pork pie, English style (2378) Jelly rolled biscuit (3312) Cheese 220 Stuffed hard shell crabs (1004) Terrapin cutlets with cream sauce (1089) Turkey legs with Milanese noodles (2036) Broiled quails (2128) Cakes filled with apricot marmalade (3325) Bananas 221 Small vol-au-vent à la Lucini (2404) Veal cutlets à la Georgina (1496) Terrapin stew with Madeira wine (1090) Apple Charlotte (3008) Crumbled paste cakes (3345) Apples 222 Turban of lobsters garnished with shells of lobster (2394) Marinated pork tenderloin (1815) Vol-au-vent, Parisian style (2406) Terrapin, Maryland Club (1088) Lady's bouchées with strawberries (3376) Cheese 223 Fresh mushroom patties (937) Cases of lobster, Ravigote (2447) Baked stuffed egg-plant (2738) Gibelotte of rabbits (2147) Cannelons à la Célestine (3292) Grape fruit 224 Kulibiac Smolenska (909) Lobster cutlets à la Lowery (2476) Chicken pie à la Manhattan (2370) Sweetbreads à la Montebello (1560) Africans fancy cakes (3364) Pomegranates 225 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Meissonier (324) Remove Sheepshead à la Béchamel (1257) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Entrées Rack of pork, crown shape, with small onions (1798) Stuffed mushrooms in cases with Madeira (2762) Pullet à la Dame Blanche (1972) Green peas with braised lettuces (2746) Roast. Woodcock (2206) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Brioche and cream fritters with sabayon (3040) Bananas in surprise (3541) Small fancy cakes (3364) Nuts and raisins (3699) Dessert 226 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Mutton à la Cowley (329) Remove Fresh codfish à la Duxelle -baked (1136) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Corned breast of beef, English style (1315) Sweet potato croquettes (2831) Chicken fricassee à la Waleski (1866) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Roast Mallard duck (2059) Cos-lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Flawn au lion d'or (3035) Plombière à la Rochambeau ice cream (3482) Small fancy cakes (3364) 227 JANUARY. DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé Charmel (224) Side Dish Rissoles of partridges à la Waddington (955) Fish Chicken halibut baked with parmesan (1172) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Braised middle short loin à la Méssinoise (1347) Cardoons with half-glaze (2710) Entrées Fillets of chicken à la Bodisco (1835) Green peas Parisian (2745) Salmis of canvasback ducks (2056) Fried eggplant (2739) Beatrice Punch (3502) Roast Quail (2131) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Countess pudding (3097) Palmyra soufflé ice cream (3535) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Black coffee (3701) 228 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé Célestine (223) Side Dish Palmettes of pheasant à la Torrens (929) Fish Red snapper à la Mobile (1235) Broiled potatoes with fried bread raspings (2776) Remove Aitch bone boiled, cream horseradish sauce (1317) Villeroi celeriac (2722) Entrées Chicken à l'Hôtelière (1880) Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) Breasts of woodcock à la Diane (2200) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) American sherbet (3521) Roast Pheasant (2107) Endive salad (2671) Hot Entremets Stuffed pears à la Lombarde (3086) Plombière à la Richmond ice cream (3481) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert Raw oysters or clams (803) may be added to these bills of fare. 229 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bennett (287) Remove Smelts, Diplomatic (1268) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrées Braised chicken with rice (1914) Noisettes of beef à la Berthier (1411) Brussels sprouts à la Baroness (2703) Roast Woodcock (2206) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Pineapple crusts, apricot sauce (3022) Iced biscuits à la d'Orléans (3437) Small cakes (3364) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert 230 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chicken okra (299) Remove Fresh codfish slices with Hollandaise sauce (1140) Boiled potatoes, English style (2774) Entrées Sheep's tongue écarlate with spinach (1657) Sautéd chicken à la Tunisienne (1901) Fried oyster plant (2817) Roast Ruddy duck (2066) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Apples, Baron de Brisse style (2993) Orange water-ice (3605) Small fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) Cognac Dessert 231 JANUARY DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Rémusat (240) Side Dish Chicken croquettes, Hungarian (878) Fish Soles à la Lutèce (1272) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Ham braised with stuffed tomatoes (1790) Entrées Slices of mutton fillet à la Alexandre (1608) Cauliflower à la Villeroi (2716) Quails with mushrooms (2134) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Capon (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Alliance fritters(3036) Favart soufflé ice cream (3534) Small fancy cakes (3364) Nuts and raisins (3699) Stewed bananas (3687) Dessert 232 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crabs à la Stevens (199) Side Dish Timbales Chevalière (963) Fish English turbot with caper sauce (1307) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) Remove Saddle of mutton roasted on the spit (1648) Entrées Chicken, Vienna style sautéd (1905) String beans with butter (2829) Partridges à la Chartreuse (2094) Gnocquis (2955) Kirsch punch (3510) Roast Mallard duck (2059) Salad Hot Entremets Creamy soufflé with cheese (2982) Spongade à la Médicis (3536) Small cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) Liquors Raw oysters or clams (803) may be added to these bills of fare. 233 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Fermière style (307) Remove Hot eel pie (2315) Green peas, English style (2742) Entrées Breasts of chicken à la Lucullus (1846) Artichoke (bottoms) with marrow (2687) Pilau of mutton, French style (1641) Chicory with cream (2729) Roast Grouse with apple sauce (2072) Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Singapore pineapple fritters (3046) Ice cream with walnuts (3464) Fancy cakes (3364) Salted almonds (3696) Dessert 234 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Jérôme with sweet potato quenelles (317) Remove Baked stuffed perch (1210) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Sweetbreads à l'Eugénie (1556) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Woodcock pudding (2325) Ballotines of stuffed cabbage (2705) Roast Chicken (1881) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Apples in surprise (2995) Maraschino ice cream (3462) Small cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Dessert 235 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Dubarry (229) Side Dish Pheasant croquettes (891) Fish Sheepshead à la Buena Vista (1259) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Goose stuffed with sausages and chestnuts (1950) Entrées Veal cutlets, Milanese (1502) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Woodcocks à la Cavour (2198) Artichoke (bottoms) Jusienne (2678) Pargny punch (3514) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Salad Hot Entremets Creole fruits (3051) Coffee mousse ice cream (3473) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert 236 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of carrots à la Crécy (268) Side Dish Neapolitan timbales (977) Fish Fresh codfish à la Norwegian (1137) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Tenderloin of beef à la d'Aurelles (1449) Entrées Breasts of chicken à la Mirabeau (1849) Stuffed cauliflower à la Béchamel (2715) Sweetbreads à la Conti (1554) Green peas, English style (2742) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Canvasback ducks with samp (2055) Salad Hot Entremets Franklyn pudding (3098) Ice cream mousse with maraschino (3476) Nuts and raisins (3699) Dessert Raw oysters or clams may be added to these bills of fare. 237 JANUARY. DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Garbure with lettuce (310) Remove Spotted fish, Queen sauce (1285) Potato fritters (2788) Entrées Tenderloin steak with Madeira (1425) Stuffed tomatoes, Provençal (2835) California quails à la Monterey (2136) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Wild turkey, American style (2028) Hot Entremets Apples with butter (2999) Chocolate ice cream (3449) Small fancy cakes (3364) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert 238 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Grammont (234) Remove Whitefish, Gherardi (1311) Potato tartlets (2810) Entrées Minions of beef tenderloin à la Salvini (1405) Spinach à la Rougemont (2822) Sweetbread cutlets, modern style (2271) Macédoine à la Montigny (2755) Roast Pullet with water-cress (1996) Hot Entremets Pineapple Carolina (3090) Lemon water-ice (3604) Small cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Coffee (3701) 239 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS MENU. Soup Chamberlain (295) Side Dish Godiveau and chives, puff paste patties (944) Fish Sole, Venetian style (1278) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Sirloin of beef à la Dauphiness (1350) Entrées Breasts of partridges à la Jules Verne (2087) Artichoke (bottoms) with cream béchamel (2686) Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy (1575) French green peas (2743) Brandy punch (3510) Roast Capon (1826) Hot Entremets Pudding à la de Freese (3099) Excelsior biscuit ice cream (3436) Fruits (3699) Dessert 240 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Daumont (228) Side Dish Cannelons of purée of game (859) Fish Haddock, Holland style (1165) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Mongrel goose à la Royer(1946) Entrées Mutton cutlets with cucumbers (1603) Stuffed tomatoes with mushrooms (2842) Woodcock salmis à la Sandford (2208) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Punch Dolgorouski (3506) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Hot Entremets Peach fritters with maraschino (3039) Spongade ice cream à la Parepa (3537) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert Raw oysters or clams may be added to these bills of fare. JANVIER. 241 DîNER, 14 COUVERTS -À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Haut Sauterne Huîtres (803) Sherry POTAGES. Consommé à la Laguipierre (236) Crème de Céleri à la Livingstone (252) HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUDS. Bouchées de salpicon de foies-gras (943) Marcobrunner POISSONS. Sheepshead à la sauce Cardinal (1261) Blanchaille frite à la diable (1310) Pommery Sec RELEVÉ. Filet de bœuf à la Bernardi (1444) Pontet-Canet ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Marceau (1847) Petits pâtés de cailles (2311) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Fonds d'artichauts à la Mornay (2680) Soufflé de bécasses aux truffes (2366) Sorbet Andalouse (3322) Corton RôTS Canard à tête rouge (2063) Salade d'escarole (2671) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Munich aux pêches (chaud) (3055) Gelée aux ananas Californienne (3178) Crème bain-marie au café (3162) Glace Parfait nougat (3478) Old Port Dessert JANVIER. 242 DîNER, 60 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé à l'Impératrice (231) Tortue verte au clair (353) HORS-D'ŒUVRE FROIDS. Salade d'anchois (772) Olives Espagnoles farcies (801) Sardines à l'huile (831) Thon mariné (831) POISSONS. Darne de saumon à la Duperré (1240) Pompano à la Soya (1226) RELEVÉS. Chapon à la Régence (1825) Selle d'agneau braisée à la purée de navets (1745) ENTRÉES. Côtelettes de veau Pogarski (2273) Paupiettes de dindonneau au souvenir (2045) Canards Mallart au Madère (2061) Vol-au-vent de poulet aux champignons (2399) RôTS. Faisans rôtis aux truffes (2110) Buisson d'écrevisses (2572) RELEVÉS. Rissolettes à la Solférino (958) ENTREMETS. Asperges sauce mousseline (2692) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Gelée aux fruits (3187) Crème tutti frutti (3153) Petites caisses de homards à la ravigote (2447) Grosses truffes en serviettes (2843) RELEVÉS. Hure de sanglier en surprise garnie d'Africains (3255) Fondue aux truffes du Piémont (2954) Dessert JANVIER. 243 DîNER, 60 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA RUSSE. MENU. Servi par six, dix sur chaque plat. BUFFET SÉPARÉ. Vermuth, Absinthe, Canapés de crevettes (777) Salade d'anchois (772) Kümmel, Sherry Gelée de canneberges (598) Rhubarbe à la crème (3204) Thon mariné (831) Radis (808) Olives (800) Caviar (778) Chablis 60 plats d'huîtres sur coquilles (803) POTAGES (3 SOUPIèRES). Amontillado Consommé Colbert aux œufs pochés (225) Bisque de homard (205) HORS-D'ŒUVRE (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Timbales à la Talleyrand (988) Palmettes à la Perrier (922) POISSONS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Haut Sauterne Flétan à la Coligny (1168) Filets de soles, Rochelaise (1276) RELEVÉS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Batailly Dinde à la Française (2029) Selle d'agneau à la Chancelière (1739) ENTRÉES (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Champagne Pommery Sec Filets de volaille à la Certosa (1836) Côtelettes de tétras à la Ségard (2259) Homard à la Rougemont (1041) Chaudfroid de cailles à la Baudy (2459) RôTS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Perdreaux truffés (2100) Poularde au cresson (1996) LÉGUMES (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Château La Rose Céleri à la moelle (2721) Petits pois fins à la Parisienne (2745) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS (CHAUDS) (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Brioches St. Marc (3006) Pouding à la Benvenuto (3092) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS (FROIDS) (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Vin de Paille Gelée aux fruits (3 plats) (3187) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) 60 Glaces variées (3538) FLANCS. 2 Chariots garnis de pommes d'api (3632) Une brouette garnie de fleurs sur socle (3638) CONTRE FLANCS. Deux étagères garnies de bonbons, marrons glacés et Victorias (3379) 8 Tambours garnis de petits fours (3364) Macarons (3379) Africains (3364) Bouchées de dames (3376) SEIZE BOUTS DE TABLE. 4 Corbeilles de fruits frais (3699) 4 Compotiers de fruits secs (3699) 4 Fromages (3697) 4 Compotes de pommes (3686) Café (3701) JANVIER. 244 DîNER, 20 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. Premier Service. On place les hors-d'œuvre sur la table. Olives (800) Salade d'anchois (772) Céleri rave (779) Beurre (775) Radis (808) Melon cantaloup (799) Mortadelle (818) Caviar (778) Huîtres sur coquilles avec citron (803) Les hors-d'œuvre d'office se servent après le potage POTAGES. Consommé souveraine (243) Purée de volaille à la Dufferin (269) Marsala Timbales à la Lagardère (970) RELEVÉ. Bass rayé à la Masséna (1106) Marcobrunner Selle de mouton à la Duchesse (1644) Médoc Pomard ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Toulouse (1854) Côtelettes de filet de bœuf à la Babanine (2255) Ris de veau à la St. Cloud (1566) Salmis de bécasses à la Beaumont (2207) Pichon Longueville PIèCES FROIDES SUR SOCLE. Galantine de dinde à la Berger (2499) Pâté de foies-gras de Strasbourg (2564) Château Yquem Deuxième Service. Retirer les hors-d'œuvre et les pièces froides et placer le second service, nombre égal de plats du premier service. Salade en même temps que le rôti. INTERMèDE. Punch à l'Impérial (3509) RôTS. Poulardes au cresson (1996) Canvasbacks rôtis (canards sauvages) (2055) Chambertin Château Laffitte ENTREMETS. Quartiers d'artichauts (2688) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Poires à la Ferrière (3085) Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Xérès GROS GATEAUX (sur socle) Napolitaine (3250) Mille-feuilles Pompadour (3247) Constance Troisième Service. Enlever le tout excepté le milieu de table (dormant) qui est garni de fleurs ou de groupes, &c. DESSERT. Fromages variés(3697) Fruits frais en corbeilles (3699) Tokai Guéridons garnis de biscuits aux amandes glacées (3369) de fondants au chocolat (3650) et de fondants à la vanille (3651) Alicante Muscat Glaces Alaska Florida (3538) Sabayon à la Denari (3532) Gelée d'oranges en tasses(3180) Compote de poires (3692) La hotte à la Denivelle (3636) Casque en nougat garni de sucre filé (3598) Pale ale Le café et les liqueurs sont servis au salon. 245 FEBRUARY. DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Manestrone Milanese (322) Remove Fried soles à la Colbert (1271) Cucumbers, English style (2661) Entrées Boiled leg of mutton with mashed turnips (1629) Chicken sautéd à la Stanley (1900) Chicory with cream (2729) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Roast Pullet (1996) Salad Hot Entremets Fruit crusts à la Mirabeau (3025) Ice cream with white coffee (3460) Small fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) 246 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oyster soup with ravioles (337) Remove Smelts à l'Alexandria (1265) Persillade potatoes (2774) Entrées Roast stuffed chicken with tomato Condé sauce (1883) Mutton cutlets, Russian style (1600) Celery stalks half-glaze (2721) Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) Roast Redhead duck (2064) Salad Hot Entremets Cream fritters, Pamela (3013) Almond ice cream (3461) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 247 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of Brussels sprouts (250) Side Dish Rissoles of brains, Princeton (947) Fish Shad, Irish style (1254) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Goose à la Chipolata (1945) Entrées Carbonnade of mutton à la Juvigny (1589) Salmis of teal duck à la Harrison (2070) Spinach with cream (2820) Lima beans (2699) Tosca punch (3519) Roast Truffled turkey garnished with black olives(2031) Salad Hot Entremets Rice border with bananas (3005) Caramel ice cream (3447) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 248 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé Adelina (215) Side Dish Mousseline Waleski (916) Fish Redsnapper à la Mobile (1235) Viennese potatoes (2812) Removes Quarter of boar, garnished with cutlets and breasts marinade sauce (2049) Entrées Stuffed sweetbreads, Spanish style (1577) Chicken fricassee, Bouchard (1862) Cauliflower, white sauce (2719) Smothered string beans (2828) Rum punch (3510) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Salad Hot Entremets Compiègne with sabayon (3009) Jardinière cutlets ice cream (3555) Small fancy cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Coffee (3701) 249 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of potatoes, Benton (278) Remove Redsnapper, Demidoff (1234) Entrées Leg of mutton, Bourdaloue (1623) Baked potatoes (2771) Braised pullet, modern style (1989) Boiled cauliflower with white sauce (2719) Roast Larded English partridges (2102) Salad Hot Entremets Flawn Golden Lion (3035) Cold Entremets Strawberry charlotte (3146) Fruits (3699) Dessert 250 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Marshall (323) Remove Soles à la Normande (1274) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Pullet, English style (1985) Glazed endive (2740) Mutton cutlets, macédoine (1594) Noodles milanese timbales (2988) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Apple, Nelson (2991) Cold Entremets Rice à la Mirabeau (3213) Small cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Dessert 251 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Julienne faubonne (318) Side Dishes Attéreaux of sweetbreads à la moderne (841) Fried oyster crabs (1005) Fish Soles, Venetian style (1278) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Rack of lamb larded and roasted with purée of split peas (1735) Entrées Escalops of pheasant with olives (2283) Stuffed tomatoes, Provençal (2835) Sweetbreads, Piedmontese style (1563) Green peas, English style (2742) Roman punch (3515) Roast Canvasback duck (2055) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Spanish pudding (3110) Pineapple water-ice (3606) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 252 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Champêtre (296) Side Dish Beef palate croquettes (875) Fish Whitefish, pimentade sauce (1312) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Loin of veal à l'Ambassade (1534) Entrées Chicken fillets Sadi Carnot (1853) Green peas with shredded lettuce(2747) Terrapin à la Newberg (1086) American sherbet (3521) Roast Ptarmigans (2072) Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Chestnut croquettes (3017) Andalusian ice cream (3446) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 253 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of beans à la Condé (280) Remove Fried soles (1280) Entrées Leg of mutton, Parisian style (1634) Celery with béchamel and croûtons (2720) Reedbirds vol-au-vent, Diplomate (2407) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Lettuce salad(2672) Hot Entremets Golden crusts (3021) Cold Entremets Ministerial pudding (3209) Fresh fruits (3699) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) 254 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Genoa paste soup (339) Remove Porgies with Chablis wine (1231) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Oxtails with glazed vegetables (1325) Chickens sautéd à la Nantaise (1896) String beans à la Albani (2825) Roast Leg of mutton (1633) Water-cress salad (2676) Hot Entremets Glazed apple fritters (3037) Rye bread ice cream (3450) Fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) 255 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé Bariatenski (219) Side Dish Attéreaux of turkey (842) Fish Pompano à l'Anthelme (1220) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Remove Chine of pork à la Parmentier (1774) Entrées Chicken épigrammes à la Volnay (1833) Tomatoes Trévise (2836) Tournedos of beef à la Marietta (1435) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Venetian sherbet Roast Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (2053) Salad Hot Entremets Crescents of noodles with cherries (3015) Coffee mousse ice cream (3473) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 256 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Hunter's style (315) Side Dish Cassolettes Lusigny (860) Fish Sheepshead à la Meissonier (1260) Remove Rump of beef, Flemish style (1341) Entrées Breast of pullet, Macédoine (2002) Ravioles à la Bellini (2976) Mutton cutlets, breaded with purée of truffles (1599) Artichoke (bottoms) à la Soubise(2681) Prunelle punch (3510) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Madeira crusts (3026) Cold Entremets Harrison pudding (3207) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 257 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Noodles with Parmesan (330) Remove Perch with parsley water (1211) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Suckling pig with sauerkraut (1811) Spinach à la Rougemont (2822) Lamb cutlets with mushrooms (1680) Small bunches of asparagus (2694) Roast Squabs (2018) Water-cress salad (2676) Hot Entremets Mundane fritters (3044) Stewed fruits (3686) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) 258 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Small individual soup pots (346) Remove Baked frostfish (1161) Potato croquettes, surprise (2782) Entrées Leg of mutton à la Bordelaise (1622) Spaghetti, Queen style (2968) Breasts of pullets à la Montmorency(1998) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Ptarmigans (2072) Celery knob salad (2660) Hot Entremets Condé peaches (3081) Bavarois with Meringues (3133) Fruits (3699) Dessert 259 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Shrimps, mignon (345) Side Dish Colombines of chicken livers with ham (865) Fish Fried oyster crabs (1005) Remove Tenderloin of beef, Neapolitan style (1455) Entrées Grenades of turkey à la Jules Verne (2035) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Salmis of pheasants à la Lorenzo (2106) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) Pâquerette sherbet (3527) Roast Capon (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Pear crusts (3027) Ice cream, Ribambelle (3576) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 260 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of Jerusalem artichokes (257) Side Dish Attéreaux of game (842) Fish Fillets of soles à la Marguery (1273) Sarah Potatoes (2802) Remove Quarter of veal, Scotch style (1541) Entrées Grenadins of beef with round potatoes, Valois sauce (1393) Chicken quenelles, Bretonne (2328) Brussels sprouts, Baroness style (2703) Artichokes à la Rachel (2690) Mephisto sherbet (3524) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Mellow pudding, apricot sauce (3094) Frozen Entremets Plombière Montesquieu (3480) Small cakes (3364) Dessert FÉVRIER 261 DîNER 14 COUVERTS -À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Comus (226) Chartreuse (297) POISSONS. Black bass à la Narragansett (1095) Pétoncles à la Brestoise (1074) GROSSE PIèCE. Jambon rôti à la broche sauce madère (1789) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à l'Épicurienne (1842) Côtelettes de mouton à la Nelson (1596) Filets de faisan aux truffes (2105) Soufflé de volaille (2359) RôTS. Canvasback duck (canard sauvage) (2055) Pâté de foies gras découpé (2563) RELEVÉS. Charlotte de pommes à la Destrey (3007) Pouding Lafayette (3208) ENTREMETS. Croûtes aux champignons (2759) Artichauts à la Rachel (2690) Tartelettes d'abricots (3402) Gelée au marasquin (3186) Glace Comtesse Leda (3548) BUFFET. Côtes de bœuf rôties à l'Américaine (1331) Selle de mouton rôtie (1605) Potage semoule (316) Os à la moelle sur croûtes de pain grillées (1319) Tarte de noix de coco (3200) FÉVRIER 262 DîNER 20 COUVERTS -À LA RUSSE. MENU. 20 plats d'huîtres et citrons (803) 2 POTAGES. 1 Brunoise aux quenelles (291) 1 Bisque de homard à la Cambridge (207) 2 HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUDS. 2 Palmettes de dinde à la Béarnaise (933) 2 ENTRÉES FROIDES. 1 Aspic de crêtes et de rognons de coq à la Mazarin (2410) 1 Salade de poisson (2631) 2 GROSSES PIèCES. 2 Filets de bœuf à la Godard (1451) 6 ENTRÉES (PAR DEUX). 2 Filets de poularde à la Montmorency (1998) 1 Saumon à la Victoria (1243) 2 Ris de veau à la Montpensier (1561) 1 Faisan à la Montebello (2108) Sorbet à la prunelle (3510) 2 PLATS DE RôTI. 1 de canards à tête rouge (2063) 1 de dinde à l'Américaine (2028) Salade laitue (2672) 4 ENTREMETS DE LÉGUMES. 2 Tomates frites à la Gibbons (2841) 2 Haricots verts étuvés (2828) 6 ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. 2 Beignets d'abricots au Marasquin (3039) 1 Gelée à la Russe (3182) 1 Blanc manger Smolenska (3138) 2 Glaces Plombière d'Alençon (3483) FÉVRIER 263 CARêME -DîNER 16 COUVERTS -À L'AMÉRICAINE. Sur le milieu de la table une corbeille de fleurs. MENU (en maigre). BUFFET RUSSE. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Tortue verte au clair (353) Crème d'asperges St. Vallier (247) HORS-DŒUVRE CHAUDS. Cromesquís de filet de Bass (870) RELEVÉS. Sheepshead au court-bouillon (1262) Anguille à la maréchale (1149) Pommes de terre, boules de neige (2798) 4 ENTRÉES. Terrapène à la Maryland Club (1088) Redsnapper à la Chérot (1232) Choux fleurs gratinés (2717) Bass rayée à la Maintenon (1105) Vol-au-vent de morue (2400) Punch à la Tremière (3520) 2 RôTS. Sarcelles à la gelée de groseilles (2068) Grenouilles à la Orly (1021) Salade de laitue (2672) Soufflé au fromage de gruyère (2984) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Croûtes aux ananas, sauce abricots (3022) Pouding Boissy (3205) Gelée d'orange en tasses (3180) Glaces, Bombe à la Trobriand (3440) Dessert Café (3701) FÉVRIER 264 DîNER 14 COUVERTS -À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé Franklyn (233) Tortue verte aux quenelles à la moelle (353) HORS-D'ŒUVRE Timbales à la Palermitaine (978) POISSONS. Bass rayée à la Mornay (1107) Crabes d'huîtres frits (1005) RELEVÉ. Selle d'agneau à la purée de navets (1745) Choux de Bruxelles sautés (2704) ENTRÉES. Poularde à l'ivoire aux quenelles décorées (1988) Champignons à la Reynal (2756) Ris de veau à la Piémontaise (1563) Tomates à la Reine (2840) Punch Élisabeth (3507) RôT. Ruddy ducks (2066) Salade de chicorée (2668) Soufflé au parmesan (2983) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Compiègne au sabayon (3009) Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Pouding Valois(3211) Glaces, Fiori à la vanille (3469) Fruits (3699) Fromages (3697) Compotes (3686) Café (3701) 265 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of larks with chestnuts (281) Remove Pompano à la Duclair (1222) Potatoes boiled with fried bread raspings (2776) Entrées Breast of veal stuffed and garnished with tomatoes (1492) Grenadins of tenderloin of beef (1384) Timbale of noodles à la Pearsall (2989) Asparagus in small bunches (2694) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Salad Hot Entremets Light pancakes with jams (3079) Alaska Florida ice cream (3538) Dessert 266 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Paillettes (339) Remove Turbot, caper sauce (1307) Mashed potatoes (2798) Entrées Leg of mutton à la Reglain (1626) Braised onions (2765) Chicken cromesquis (868) Green peas, French style (2743) Roast Ptarmigans (2072) Dandelion salad (2670) Hot Entremets Apples à la Giudici (2990) Parisian ice cream (3573) Dessert 267 MARCH. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of string beans à la Véfour (264) Side Dish Colombines of fat liver (866) Fish Halibut with fine herbs à la Reynal (1171) Snow potatoes (2798) Remove Rumps of beef à la Chatellier (1339) Macaroni à la Brignoli (2958) Entrées Chicken Championne (1879) Carrots with cream (2714) Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) Green peas, English style (2742) Fine Champagne sherbet (3510) Roast Reedbirds (2152) Salad Hot Entremets Italian pudding (3101) Cold Entremets. (Ice) Nesselrode pudding with candied chestnuts (3495) Dessert 268 MARCH. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Green turtle with marrow quenelles (353) Side Dish Palmettes à la Junot (921) Fish Salmon, Argentine style (1237) Potato tartlets (2810) Remove Loin of beef à la Norwood (1348) Fedelini Cardinal (2953) Entrées Lamb minions, cream sauce (1724) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Escalops of liver à la Rulli (2280) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Imperial punch (3509) Roast Capon (1826) Corn salad (2669) Hot Entremets. Rice with apples (3115) Parfait coffee ice cream (3479) Dessert 269 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Tapioca (316) Remove Fisherman's Matelote (1205) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Entrées Cases of squabs à la Umberto (2234) Sweetbreads à la Montpensier (1561) Stuffed cauliflower béchamel (2715) Francatelli risot (2979) Roast Loin of mutton on the spit (1637) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Chocolate soufflé (3119) Pineapple water ice (3606) Dessert 270 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of carrots with Compiègne croûtons (263) Remove Paupiettes of herring with milts (1176) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Leg of mutton, Roederer style (1627) Mushrooms à la Dumas (2757) Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (2053) Roast Capon with water-cress (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Zephyr of rice with pineapple (3124) Lemon water ice (3604) Dessert 271 MARCH DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Calf's feet, English style (293) Side Dish Chicken rissoles (948) Fish Broiled salmon, Bearnaise sauce (1244) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Remove Tenderloin of beef à la Melinet (1452) Cèpes with cream (2724) Entrées Chicken fillets à l'Impératrice (1841) String beans à la Bourguignonne (2826) Sweetbread cutlets, modern style (2271) Green peas, English style (2742) Prunelle punch (3510) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Apple charlotte (3008) Parfait with nougat (3478) Dessert 272 MARCH. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Hungarian Consommé (235) Side Dish Castillane croustades, purée of chestnuts (895) Fish Flounders à la Dieppoise (1153) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Hind quarter of lamb with mint sauce (1732) Entrées Sweetbreads, Monarch style (1570) Trévise tomatoes (2836) Pigeons, printanière style (1966) Gnocquis timbale à la Choiseul (2987) Rebecca sherbet (3528) Roast Canvasback ducks (2055) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Rice pudding, fruit sauce (3106) Italian mousse (3475) Dessert 273 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of oysters à la Wilson (210) Remove Perch with Valois sauce (1209) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrées Shoulder of lamb with purée of celery (1753) Chicken fricassee à la Bouchard (1862) Carrots, Colbert style (2711) Roast Mongrel ducks (1921) Monk's beard salad (2674) Entremets Strawberry fritters with macaroons (3049) Fromage glacé ice cream (3553) Dessert 274 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of rice à la Crémieux (249) Remove Salmon, French style (1241) Cucumber salad (2661) Entrées Capon à la Bressoise (1822) Rack of veal à l'Albani (1542) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Mushrooms à la Raynal (2756) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Salad Hot Entremets Brioches, St. Mark (3006) Strawberry ice cream (3607) Dessert 275 MARCH. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Velvet (356) Side Dish Attéreaux of beef palates (836) Fish Canadian turbot à la Houston (1305) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Ham à la Benedict (1787) Stuffed green peppers (2768) Entrées Breast of pullet à la Visconti (2001) Jerusalem artichokes, Salamander (2749) Small vol-au-vent, Parisian style (2406) Asparagus, vinaigrette sauce (2692) Champagne punch (3504) Roast Roast saddle of mutton on the spit (1648) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Meringued apples, Nubian (2996) Mignon ice cream (3564) Dessert 276 MARCH. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Rice à la Rudini (343) Side Dish Robertson ham mousseline (915) Fish Sheepshead, Cardinal sauce (1261) Potato fritters (2788) Remove Oxtails hochepot (1324) Stuffed tomatoes, Provençal (2835) Entrées Squabs, Carolina (2021) Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) Veal cutlets, Pogarski (2273) Green peas, English style (2742) Scotch Haggis (1640) Paquerette sherbet (3527) Roast Canvasback ducks (2055) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Schiller pudding (3109) Mousse Siraudin ice cream (3472) Dessert 277 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of leeks with quenelles (253) Remove Flounders à la Jules Janin (1156) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Loin of lamb with sautéd tomatoes (1718) Baked stuffed eggplant (2738) Boar saddle with gravy (2050) Artichoke (bottoms) with cauliflower (2685) Roast Chicken (1881) Salad Hot Entremets Rice croquettes with orange raspberry sauce (3018) Fiori di latte, Bellini ice cream (3467) Dessert 278 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of chicken à la Reine (270) Remove Pike perch à la Geraldin (1215) Potato cakes with ham (2779) Entrées Capon à la Pondichery (1824) Kernel of mutton, Milanese (1630) Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) Mushrooms à la Rivera (2758) Roast Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (2053) Celery, Mayonnaise (2660) Hot Entremets Mirlitons of pears, bienvenue (3054) Sicilian pudding ice cream (3499) Dessert 279 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of green peas à la St. Germain (260) Side Dish Palmettes of fat liver, Delmontés (925) Fish Canadian turbot à la Mercier (1306) Boiled potatoes, English style (2774) Remove Tenderloin of beef with vegetables (1466) Timbales of chicory with cream (2728) Entrées Lamb cutlets à la Victor Hugo (1689) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Pâté à la Richelieu (2310) Maraschino punch (3510) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Salad Hot Entremets Coupole Madison (3029) (Iced) Fleury pudding (3493) Dessert 280 MARCH. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup D'Osmont (306) Side Dish Turbigo patties (941) Fish Pompano à la Carondelet (1221) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) Remove Saddle of veal with lettuce (1545) Ravioles à la Bellini (2976) Entrées Chicken poêled à la Stuyvesant (1911) Sweet potatoes with lobster coral (2830) Thrush pudding (2324) American sherbet (3521) Roast English pheasants (2107) Lettuce salad with anchovies (2673) Hot Entremets Franklyn pudding (3098) (Iced) Plombière, Havanese style (3484) Dessert MARS. 281 DîNER, 12 COUVERTS -À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé Florentine (232) Crème d'asperges à la St. Vallier (247) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à l'Arlequin (967) POISSON. Filets de bass à la Conti (1102) Pommes de terre Dauphine (2783) RELEVÉ. Selle d'agneau Chancelière (1739) Fonds d'artichauts à la Villars (2682) ENTRÉES. Faisan piqué aux truffes (2111) Ris de veau à la Théodora (1568) Macédoine de légumes à la Montigny (2755) Tomates farcies aux champignons (2842) Vol-au-vent aux huîtres (2402) Punch à la Bouquetière (3503) RôTS. Poularde truffée (1992) FROID. Terrine de foies de canards à l'Aquitaine (2596) Salade de laitue (2672) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS. Gelée aux Reines-Claude (3187) Bavarois à la vanille (3135) Gâteau Compiègne (3236) Cornets à la Crème à l'orange (3148) Glaces Plombière à la Havanaise (3484) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) MARS. 282 DîNER, 12 COUVERTS -À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé Andalouse (216) Bisque d'écrevisses à la Persigny (204) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Bouchées aux crabes d'huîtres (935) POISSONS. Pompano à la Mazarin (1224) Blanchaille frite à la Diable (1310) RELEVÉ. Selle d'agneau à la Française (1744) Choux fleurs au fromage gratinés (2717) ENTRÉES. Mignons de filet de bœuf Baillard (1400) Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) Timbale de volaille Parisienne (2382) Asperges à la vinaigrette (2692) Sorbet, jeune Amérique (3530) RôTS. Poules de neige (2072) Mésanges moustache (2152) FROID. Bordure de foies-gras (2483) Salade de laitue (2672) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Beignets alliance (3036) Gelée d'orange en tasses (3180) Brisselets à la crème framboise (3223) Glaces, plum pouding (3496) Dessert Café (3701) MARS. 283 DîNER DE 40 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA RUSSE. MENU. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé à la Noailles (237) Chiffonade aux croûtes (253) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à la Lombarde (972) Bressoles de gibier (847) POISSONS. Redsnapper à la Créquy (1233) Aiguilettes de maquereaux à la Bonnefoy (1191) RELEVÉ. Selle d'agneau à la Brighton (1738) ENTRÉES. Ris de veau à la St. Laurent (1567) Filets de poulet à la Maréchale(1848) Terrapène à la Maryland Club (1088) Soufflé de faisans à la Andrews (2365) RôTS. Poulets rôtis à la casserole (1881) Mésanges moustache (2152) LÉGUMES. Macédoine à la Montigny (2755) Céleri frit à la Villeroi (2722) ENTREMETS. Biscuits Frascati (3004) Charlotte de pommes Calville (3143) Gelée aux ananas Californienne (3178) Couronne à la Choiseuil (3154) Glaces et Dessert MARS. 284 DîNER DE 20 COUVERTS -(À LA FRANçAISE). MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Adélina (215) Purée de lucines à la Hendrick (197) GROSSES PIèCES. Bass rayée à la Rouennaise (1108) Filet de bœuf à la Baréda (1442) ENTRÉES. Côtelettes d'agneau à la Leverrier (1677) Ailes de poulet à la Villeroi (1857) Ris de veau à la Binda (1551) Terrapène à la Crisfield (1084) Petits vol-au-vent d'huîtres, Maintenon (2405) Aspic de homards (2414) RôTS. Pigeonneaux rôtis à la casserole (2018) Canards sauvages (têtes rouges) (2063) ENTREMETS. Tomates farcies aux champignons frais (2842) Epinards à la Rougemont (2822) Beignets soufflés Médicis (3047) Gelée à l'orange en tasses (3180) Bavarois au chocolat (3131) Flan aux poires (3175) Dessert 285 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Fish chowder à la Stebens (301) Remove Cutlets of kingfish, Mayonnaise mousseline (2260) Entrées Shoulder of lamb à la Benton (1748) Spaghetti macaroni à la Salvini (2969) Thrushes in the saucepan (2165) Okra garnished with barley béchamel croustades (2763) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Fried cream à la Maintenon (3010) Vanilla ice cream, Italian meringue (3458) Stewed fruits (3686) Nuts and raisins (3699) Dessert 286 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Pilaff, Turkish style (341) Removes Smelts in dauphins à la Hamlin (1270) Persillade potatoes (2774) Top round of beef, Parisian style (1336) Cabbage, Peasant style (2706) Entrée Pigeons poêled, Lombardy style (1960) Quartered artichokes with marrow (2688) Roast Ducks (1921) Salad Hot Entremets Pancakes of peach marmalade macédoine (3075) Small cream biscuits (3137) Cheese(3697) Fruits (3699) Dessert 287 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Noques (358) Side Dish Palmettes, Varsovian style (924) Fish Pompano, tomato sauce (1228) Potato fritters (2788) Remove Boiled ham à la Leonard (1788) Spinach à la Noailles (2821) Entrées Noisettes of tenderloin of beef à la Bonnefoy (1412) Artichoke bottoms, Soubise (2681) English pheasants à la Périgueux (2109) Smothered string beans (2828) Siberian punch (3516) Roast Ruddy ducks (2066) Salad Hot Entremets Cabinet pudding with sabayon (3096) (Iced) Mousse with cordials (3476) Dessert 288 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Rémusat consommé (240) Side Dish Renaissance timbales (981) Fish Striped bass, Hollandaise sauce (1110) Boiled potatoes persillade (2774) Remove Capons à l'Amphitryon (1821) Mushrooms with thickened butter (2760) Entrées Minions of tenderloin of beef à la Meyerbeer (1404) Green peas, English style (2742) Shells of chicken à la Shaw (2344) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Pullets (1996) Salad Hot Entremets Humboldt pudding (3100) (Iced) Alençon plombière (3483) Dessert 289 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Pot au feu (342) Remove Spotted fish with green ravigote sauce (1286) Mashed potatoes (2798) Entrées Braised leg of mutton with rice (1636) Artichoke bottoms à la Villars (2682) Baked thrushes (2164) String beans à la Bourguignonne (2826) Roast Chickens (1881) Tomato salad (2666) Hot Entremets Roman Triumvirate fritters (3050) Strawberry water ice (3607) Fruits (3699) Small fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) 290 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Champêtre (296) Remove Fillets of soles à la Richelieu (1275) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Chicken fricassee with crustacean sauce (1867) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Larded veal cutlets with chicory (1500) Fried oyster-plant (2817) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Salad Hot Entremets Apple fritters with kirsch (3038) Ice cream with orange-flower water (3459) Fruits (3699) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) 291 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Clear mock turtle (354) Side Dish Fontage à la Flavignan (907) Fish Trout, Joan of Arc (1294) Snow potatoes (2798) Remove Turkey grenades à la Jules Verne (2035) Turnips with Allemande sauce (2848) Entrées Round bottom fricandeau of veal with gravy (1543) Spinach with cream (2820) Artichoke bottoms with cauliflower (2685) Béatrice Punch (3502) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Salad Hot Entremets Zephyr of rice with pineapple (3124) (Iced) Cavour pudding (3489) Dessert 292 APRIL. DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Oysters (803) Soup Ponsardin fish (308) Side Dish La Vallière timbales (971) Fish Shad with sorrel purée (1256) Duchess potatoes (2785) Remove Saddle of mutton, German style (1645) Beets with cream (2702) Entrées Duck à la Matignon (1918) Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) Sweetbreads à la St. Cloud (1566) String beans with butter (2829) Prunelle punch (3510) Roast Pullets with water-cress (1996) Salad Hot Entremets Bananas fried with cherries (3003) (Iced) Rice à la Ristori (3577) Dessert 293 APRIL DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of oatmeal, Toulousaine (275) Remove Fillet of salmon trout à l'Antoinette (1302) Potatoes, Vienna style (2812) Entrées Calf's head in tortue (1517) Chicken sautéd à la Madeleine (1891) Jerusalem artichokes à la Salamander(2747) Asparagus à la Maintenon (2695) Roast Pheasants roasted (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Mirabeau crusts with fruits (3205) Custard cream with caramel (3161) Dessert 294 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Giblet à la Réglain (311) Remove Chicken halibut, carrot sauce (1173) Potato tartlets (2810) Entrées Leg of mutton, Granville (1628) Ducklings with oranges (1943) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) String beans, with butter (2829) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Salad Hot Entremets Flawn à la Manhattan (3034) Stewed fruits (3686) Cheese (3697) Dessert 295 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS MENU. Oysters (803) Soup Vermicelli (339) Side Dish Palmettes of Guinea fowl à la Paladio (926) Fish Soles à la Trouville (1277) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Removes Breast of veal à la Mondoux (1488) Sorrel with gravy (2818) Entrées Salmis of teal duck à la Harrison (2070) Oyster-plant, fine herbs (2817) Coquilles à la Benoiton (2339) Rum punch (3510) Roast Spring turkey with water-cress (2044) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Savarin with apricots (3117) Valence cups with peaches, ice cream (3587) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 296 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Lobster, Duke Alexis (321) Side Dish Lombardy Timbales (972) Fish Shad à la Evers with shad roe croquettes (1252) Broiled potatoes with fried bread (2776) Remove Virginia ham with stringed eggs (1792) Artichoke bottoms à la Villars (2682) Entrées Noisettes of tenderloin of beef à la Magny (1414) Sautéd sweet peppers (2769) Chicken boudins à l'Écarlate (2214) Paradise sherbet (3525) Roast Capon (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Pineapple Carolina (3090) Alaska Florida ice cream (3538) Dessert 297 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Sago (316) Remove Weakfish à la Brighton (1308) Potatoes with melted butter (2790) Entrées Rack of lamb with sautéd artichokes (1734) Cutlets of chicken à la Clarence (2258) Baked stuffed eggplant (2738) Boquillon tomatoes (2833) Roast Turkey (2028) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Fried bananas, cherry sauce (3003) Parisian ice cream (3573) Fruits (3699) Small fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) 298 APRIL. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crabs, Stevens (199) Remove Sturgeon with quenelles and olives (1289) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Entrées Grenadins of tenderloin of beef à la Beaumarchais (1385) Red cabbage à la Montargis (2707) Border of risot of lobster (2213) Artichokes à la Rachel (2690) Roast Mallard ducks (2059) Salad Hot Entremets Orange fritters à la Talleyrand (3045) (Iced) Pudding Duchess (3492) Fruits (3699) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) 299 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Grammont (234) Side Dish Cromesquis of scallops (873) Fish Small trout au bleu (1297) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Ham with spinach (1791) Onions, Hollandaise sauce (2764) Entrées Breast of chicken, Mexican style, in papers (1859) Carrots, Colbert style (2711) Tourte of chicken (2391) Sorbet Young America (3530) Roast Ruddy ducks (2066) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Pancake sticks Royeaux (3076) (Iced) Constantine bomb (3439) Dessert 300 APRIL. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of cauliflower, Brisson ( 251) Side Dish Rissoles à la Demidoff (950) Fish Stuffed trout (1301) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Turkey with white oyster sauce (2032) Artichoke bottoms à la Florence (2677) Entrées Fillet of lamb, Printanière (1726) Spaghetti à la Laurence (2966) Pigeons with crawfish (1968) Stuffed lettuce with half-glaze sauce (2753) Punch Elizabeth (3507) Roast Canvasback ducks (2055) Salad Hot Entremets Madison Cupola (3029) (Iced) Vermeil globules à la Damseaux (3588) Dessert AVRIL. 301 DîNER, 14 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Royale (241) Crème de laitues à la Evers (258) POISSON. Bass rayée sauce crevettes aux petondes frits (1111) Croquettes de pommes de terre (2782) GROSSE PIèCE. Selle d'agneau à la Française (1744) Carottes aux fines herbes (2712) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Harrison (1844) Ris de veau à la Conti (1554) Vol-au-vent Delmontés (2403) Terrapène à la Maryland Club (1088) RôTS. Dinde à l'Américaine (2028) Salade de cresson et pommes (2676) RELEVÉS. Dampfnouilles à la crème (3030) Soufflé au chocolat (chaud) (3119) ENTREMETS. Tomates farcies à la Provençale (2835) Macaroni au gratin (2959) Bordure Caroline au champagne (froid) (3140) Gelée de kirsch aux fruits (3187) Gaufres roulées, crème au curaçoa (3224) Tartelettes de Valence (3336) (BUFFET). Aloyau à la Norwood (1348) Selle de mouton rôtie (1648) Yorkshire pudding (770) Pommes tartelettes (2810) Tarte Condé (3220) Potage d'orge au céleri (285) AVRIL 302 DîNER 14 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Pétit Buffet Russe. Haute Sauterne Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Sherry Consommé printanier aux quenelles (239) Crème d'oseille aux œufs farcis (262) HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUD. Timbales des Gourmets (966) Neirsteiner POISSONS. Truites à l'Hôtelière (1292) Champagne Pommery RELEVÉ. Poularde farcie à la Parisienne (1990) Céleri à la Villeroi (2722) St. Julien Supérieur ENTRÉES. Grenadins de filet de veau, sauce tomate Argentine (1507) Haricots verts au beurre (2829) Vol-au-vent à la Financière (2396) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Sorbet à la prunelle (3510) Romanée RôTS. Canards à la tête rouge (2063) Petits aspics de foies gras (2412) Salade de laitue (2672) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Pouding de Cabinet à la Royale (chaud)(3095) Suédoise de pommes (3218) Timbale de gaufres (3222) Charlotte Russe (3145) Gelée Macédoine au champagne (3179) Champagne Cliquot doux PIÉCES MONTÉES. Bateau Bon Voyage (3631) Panier de Perrette (3629) Apollinaris Glaces Cygne aux roseaux (3597) Fruits (3699) Café (3701) Petits fours (3364) AVRIL 303 DîNER 200 COUVERTS -SERVICE A L'AMÉRICAINE. Société St. George. MENU. Haut Sauterne Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé Souveraine (243) Crème d'asperges aux pointes d'asperges (248) Amontillado HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à la Sartiges (984) Johannisberger Gold seal POISSONS. Bass rayée à la Laguipierre (1103) Blanchaille frite à la mode de Greenwich (1310) Cliquot sec RELEVÉS. Baron de bœuf à la St. George (1313) Pommes rôties (2771) Château Laffitte ENTRÉES. Chapon à la Régence (1825) Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) Sorbet Rébecca (3528) Clos Vougeot RôTS. Pigeonneaux rôtis à la casserole (2018) Salade d'escarole (2671) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Plum pudding à la St. George (chaud) (3103) Apollinaris Charlotte Russe (3145) Glaces (3538) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) AVRIL 304 DîNER 10 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. DEUX POTAGES. Le Consommé Balzac (218) La crème de haricots flageolets (259) DEUX RELEVÉS DE POISSON. Les filets de saumon à la d'Artois (1238) La Matelote des Canotiers (1203) DEUX GROSSES PIèCES. La noix de veau à la Duchesse (1520) Les filets de poularde à la Varsovienne (2000) QUATRE ENTRÉES. Les ris de veau à la Bussy (1552) La fricassée de poulet au kari (1868) Les petits pâtés au jus (2318) Les boudins de kingfish à la Poniatowski (2220) DEUX PLATS DE RôTS. Les faisans Anglais (2107) Les sarcelles (2068) DEUX RELEVÉS DU RôTS. La Charlotte de pommes à la Destrey (chaud) (3007) Les Œufs à la crème au café meringués (3033) QUATRE ENTREMETS. Les épinards à l'Anglaise (2823) Les concombres panés et frits (2732) Les Buissons de meringues (3212) Les pèches à la Louvoisienne (3198) Dessert MAI. 305 DîNER, 100 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Lucines orangée (803) POTAGES. Consommé Sévigné (242) Bisque de crabes orientale (200) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à la Vénitienne (989) POISSONS. Saumon, sauce Marinade (1245) Soles à la Normande (1274) Pommes de terre Dauphine (2783) RELEVÉS. Filet de bœuf à la Mélinet (1452) Risot à la Ristori (2980) ENTRÉES. Poulet sauté à la Nantaise (1896) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Ris de veau à la Piémontaise (1563) Tomates en caisses gratinées (2839) Asperges bouillies, sauce crème (2692) Punch à la Tosca (3519) RôTS. Bécassines (2159) Pâté de foies-gras découpé(2563) Salade de laitue (2672) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS. Pouding léger aux amandes (3112) Gelée aux framboises (3183) Pièces Montées (3628) Glace Plombière aux cerises (3485) Fruits (3699) Fromages (3697) Compote (3686) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) MAI. 306 DîNER, DE 16 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. Premier Service. Potage Westmoreland (357) Consommé à la Daumont (228) Redsnapper à la Princesse (1236) Selle d'agneau de printemps à la Chancelière (1739) Faisan anglais à la Montebello (2108) Ris de veau à la Théodora (1568) Pigeonneau à la Crispi (2008) Côtelettes de filet de bœuf Bienville (2256) Timbales des Gourmets (2383) Pâté chaud de ris de veau à la McAllister (2313) Deuxième Service. Bécasses rôties (2159) Chapon rôti (1826) Cardons à la demi-glace (2710) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Pouding à la Franklyn(3098) Gâteau Mandarin (3245) Charlotte à la Russe (3145) Gelée Macédoine au Champagne (3179) Troisième Service. Corbeilles de fruits frais (3699) Compotes de pommes à la gelée (3686) Bonbons (3640) Petits fours (3364) Glace crème pralinée à l'angélique (3455) Glace orange à l'eau (3605) MAI. 307 DîNER, DE 20 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA RUSSE. MENU. HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Radis (808) Olives (800) Caviar (778) Beurre frais moulé (775) Huîtres marinées (802) Lucines (803) POTAGES. Consommé Berry (220) Crème de concombres, Sheppard (254) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Palmettes de jambon à l'Aquitaine (927) Timbales à la Dumas (965) POISSONS. Alose Bruxelloise (1253) Saumon à la Daumont (1239) RELEVÉS. Selle d'agneau à la Chancelière (1739) Canetons à l'Andalouse (1930) ENTRÉES. Ris de veau à l'Écarlate (1555) Filets de poulet à la Primatice (1851) Foie gras de Strasbourg (2562) Turban de homard (2394) Punch à la Favorite (3508) RôTS. Canards (1921) Poulardes truffées (1992) LÉGUMES. Asperges Comtesse (2693) Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Charlotte de pommes (3008) Beignets d'ananas, Singapour (3046) Gelée aux mirabelles (3187) Bavarois à la Vanille(3135) FLANCS. Gâteau à la Reine (3256) Vacherin Sultane (3264) DESSERT. Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Fruit confits (3679) Fruits frais (3699) Compotes de pommes à la gelée (3686) MAI. 308 DîNER, DE 30 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Tortue verte au clair (353) Crème de maïs à la Hermann (255) POISSONS. Tranches de saumon à la Moderne (1242) Fricandeau d'esturgeon aux petits pois (1288) RELEVÉS. Selle d'agneau à la Paganini (1741) Pointe de culotte de bœuf à la mode bourgeoise (1340) ENTRÉES. Épigrammes d'agneau à la Toulouse (1694) Rissolettes à la Pompadour (956) Noix de veau au jus lié (1521) Côtelettes de mouton à la Taverne (1592) Quenelles de volaille à la Richelieu (2327) Quenelles de volaille à la Richelieu (2327) Côtelettes de mouton à la Taverne (1592) Noix de veau au jus lié (1521) Rissolettes à la Pompadour (956) Épigrammes d'agneau à la Toulouse (1694) RôTS. Pigeonneaux rôtis à la casserole (2018) Salmis de canetons (1940) ENTREMETS. Asperges sauce Hollandaise (2692) Mazarines à l'ananas et au kirsch (3053) Crèmes frites Paméla (3013) Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Crème de homard (2470) Crème de homard (2470) Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Crèmes frites Paméla (3013) Mazarines à l'ananas (3653) Asperges sauce Hollandaise (2692) PIèCES MONTÉES. Le moulin à vent (3639) Vases en sucre filé (3637) RELEVÉS. Gâteau Chamounix (3235) Fondue aux truffes du Piemont (2954) 309 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé Célestine (223) Remove Porgy à la Manhattan (1229) Persillade potatoes (2774) Entrées Duckling à la Grainville, larded (1933) Grenadins of beef, Prévillot (1391) Sweet peppers sautéd (2769) Oyster plant à la poulette (2817) Roast Chicken (1881) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Hot Entremets Countess pudding (3097) Stewed fruits (3686) Nuts and raisins Dessert 310 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Lazagnette (339) Remove Fried brook trout (1299) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrées Shoulder of lamb à la Dessaix (1749) Salpicon of chicken, baked (2338) Artichoke bottoms with marrow (2687) Turnips with béchamel (2848) Roast Duckling (1938) Salad Hot Entremets Rice with apples (3115) Burnt almond ice cream with Angelica (3455) Dessert 311 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crawfish (201) Side Dish Turbigo patties (941) Fish Brook trout, Miller style (1295) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Pullet, ancient style (1984) Carrots, Colbert (2711) Entrées Blanquette of breast of veal à la Jacquart (1490) Stuffed cos-lettuce à la Rudini (2816) Escalops of tenderloin of beef with truffles (2276) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) Pargny punch (3514) Roast Turkey (2028) Salad Hot Entremets Figaro timbale (3123) Cold Entremets Strawberry, Charlotte (3146) (Iced) Parfait with coffee (3479) Dessert 312 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Montorgueil (326) Side Dish Isabelia mousseline (912) Fish Flounders à la Joinville (1155) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Tenderloin of beef à la Travers (1460) Stuffed cabbage ballotine (2705) Entrées Lamb cutlets à la Giralda (1676) Mushrooms à la Reynal (2756) Vol-au-vent of frogs and soubise eggs (2401) Andalouse sherbet (3522) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Apple pain with vanilla (2997) Cold Entremets (Iced) Mousse with chestnuts (3477) Dessert 313 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Barch, Polish style (286) Remove Mackerel, arrowroot mayonnaise sauce (1303) Cucumbers (2661) Entrées Duckling à la Lyonnaise (1934) Minions of fillets of veal with mushrooms (1510) Green peas with lettuce (2746) Artichoke bottoms à la Montglas (2679) Roast Ptarmigan (2072) Macédoine salad (2650) Hot Entremets Pudding soufflé with hazelnuts (3114) (Iced) Rice with citron garnished with truffles (3457) Dessert 314 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of asparagus, croûtons soufflés (248) Remove Angel fish à la Bahama (1094) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Entrées Broiled rack of lamb, Castillane sauce (1733) Chicken fricassee à la favorite (1864) Carrots stewed with cream (2714) Head of asparagus, Countess style (2693) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Brioches St. Mark (3006) Vanilla ice cream (3458) Dessert 315 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Monteille (325) Side Dish Timbales à la Duchesse (964) Fish Brook trout à la Hussarde (1293) Potato tartlets (2810) Remove Tenderloin of beef à la Bienvenue (1445) Glazed turnips (2847) Entrées Breast of chicken with cucumbers (1860) Lamb sweetbreads à la financière (1760) Carrots, Viennese (2713) Punch Elizabeth (3507) Roast Pheasant (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Plumerey pudding (3104) Cold Entremets Bain-marie cream molded (3149) (Iced) Spongade à la Médicis (3536) Dessert 316 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé, Dubarry (229) Side Dish Bressoles of fat liver (848) Fish Pompano à la Toulouse (1227) Mashed potatoes (2798) Remove Squabs à la Crispi (2008) Fried hops (2748) Entrées Timbale of sweetbreads, modern style (2388) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Breast of chicken à la Cussy (1838) Mushrooms in cases with Madeira (2762) Venetian sherbet (3529) Roast Turkey (2028) Salad Hot Entremets Rice pudding à la Bagration (3105) Cold Entremets Cream Flamri (3167) (Iced) Soufflé à l'Alcazar (3533) Dessert 317 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crabs (198) Remove Porgy à la Manhattan (1229) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Entrées Tenderloin steak with mushrooms (1427) Asparagus tips à la Maintenon (2695) Lobster à la Dugléré (1031) Risot Francatelli (2979) Roast Ptarmigan (2072) Cabbage salad (2659) Hot Entremets Grenades with cherries (3052) (Iced) Biscuit pudding (3488) Fresh fruits (3699) Cheese (3697) Small fancy cakes (3364) Bonbons (3640) Dessert 318 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bragance (290) Remove Halibut à la Kadgiori (1170) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Leg of lamb à la Bercy (1705) Lettuce braised with gravy (2754) Breast of pigeons, Hunter's style (1963) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Roast Pullet with water-cress (1996) Hot Entremets Apple "pain" with vanilla (2997) Chocolate ice cream (3449) Dessert 319 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Radishes (808) Fresh butter (775) Soup Consommé Duchess (230) Side Dish Chicken quenelles à la Richelieu (2327) Fish Striped bass à la Bercy (1101) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Remove Rump of beef à la Carême (1338) Beets with butter (2702) Entrées Cutlets of chicken à la Adolph Hardy (2257) Green peas, French style (2743) Vol-au-vent à la Financière (2396) Méphisto sherbet (3524) Roast Chicken in the saucepan (1881) Italian salad (2635) Hot Entremets Rice pudding with strawberry sauce (3106) Ice cream corn on cob (3547) Dessert 320 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Olives (800) Gherkins (785) Soup Gumbo with soft shell crabs (314) Side Dish Croustades, Perretti (900) Fish Bluefish à la Barnave (1117) Potatoes with melted butter (2790) Remove Tenderloin steak with truffles (1429) Eggplant à la Duperret (2735) Entrées Chicken fricassee à la Chevalière (1863) Cauliflower fried with bread-crumbs (2718) Lamb cutlets à la Giralda (1676) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Tremière punch (3520) Roast Duckling (1938) Salad Hot Entremets Ferrière pears (3085) Pistachio ice cream (3454) Dessert 321 MAY. DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Gluten (316) Remove Brook trout, Court-bouillon (1298) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Breast of veal, housekeeper's style (1493) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Young pigeons, English style (2014) Onions with soubise sauce (2764) Roast Ptarmigan (2072) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Mirabeau crusts with fruits (3025) (Iced) Plombière, Havanese (3484) Small fancy cakes (3364) Bonbons (3642) 322 MAY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé Balzac (218) Remove Trout à la Beaufort (1290) Potato croquettes (2782) Entrées Duckling fillets à la macédoine (1935) Parsnip cakes fried in butter (2767) Lamb cutlets à la Victor Hugo (1689) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Manhattan flawn (3034) Bain-marie cream with virgin coffee (3162) Dessert Assorted salted almonds (3696) 323 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Crawfish à la Renommée (304) Side Dish Timbales à la Montgomery (975) Fish Fillets of weakfish à la Pontigny (1309) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Sirloin of beef with chicory and souffléd sweet potatoes (1356) Stuffed peppers (2768) Entrées Breasts of chicken à la Lorenzo (1845) Oyster plant with fine herbs (2817) Vol-au-vent, ancient style (2398) Punch Bouquetière (3503) Roast English pheasant (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Baba marsala (3002) (Ices) Fiori di latte Bellini (3467) Dessert 324 MAY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Quenèfes (358) Side Dish Patties with mushrooms (937) Fish Baked paupiettes of soles à l'Italienne (1279) Broiled potatoes with fried bread (2776) Remove Pullet à la Arco Valley (1971) Cucumbers breaded and fried, English style (2732) Entrées Minions of tenderloin of beef with cèpes Bordelaise (1408) Stuffed green peppers (2768) Squabs à la Vestale (2022) Fried asparagus tips, Miranda (2696) Montmorency punch (3512) Roast Turkey (2028) Salad Hot Entremets Frascati biscuit (3004) (Iced) Diplomate pudding (3491) Dessert JUIN 325 DîNER DE 20 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA RUSSE. MENU. Lucines orangées (803) POTAGES. Moselle Berncastle Consommé Carême (222) Bisque de homard Portland (208) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Amontillado Attéreaux de foies gras (838) POISSON. Clicquot Bluefish Barnave (1117) RELEVÉS. Tranches de selle d'agneau purée de haricots (1747) Pontet-Canet ENTRÉES. Timbales de pigeonneaux, Berchoux (2387) Homard Rougemont (1041) Punch glacé à la prunelle (3510) RôTS. St. Pierre Canards farcies à l'Américaine (1920) Soufflés de fromage de gruyère (2985) LÉGUMES. Asperges sauce hollandaise (2692) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) ENTREMETS. Old Port Bananas frites sauce cerises (3003) Riz aux fraises (3216) Dessert JUIN 326 DîNER DE 16 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Lucines orangées (803) POTAGES. Haut Sauterne Consommé Antonelli (217) Amontillado Bisque de moules à la Cutting (209) Piesporter Auslese HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Brissotins de homard à l'Indienne (851) POISSONS. Kingfish à la Sultane (1185) Maquereaux espagnole aux petits pois (1200) Salade de concombres (2661) RELEVÉS. Pontet-Canet Selle d'agneau à la Chancelière (1739) Aubergines frites (2739) ENTRÉES. Clicquot doux Poulets aux légumes nouveaux (1916) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Pommery Casseroles de ris d'agneau à la de Luynes (2238) Tomates farcies (2842) Têtes d'asperges en petites bottes (2694) Sorbet parfait amour (3526) RôTS. Nuits Bécassines (2159) Pigeonneaux au cresson (2018) FROID. Petits aspics de foies-gras (2412) Salade de laitue (2672) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS. Beignets de cerises (3042) Gelée aux fruits (3187) Pouding Lafayette (3208) PIèCES MONTÉES. Oporto Glace Esmeralda (3551) Liqueurs Fruits (3699) {empty cell} Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) JUIN. 327 DîNER DE 14 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Carême (222) Crème de patates à la Girard (265) POISSONS. Kingfish à la Montgolfier (1183) Saumon à l'Argentine (1237) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Cassolettes Montholon (861) RELEVÉS. Filet de bœuf à la d'Orléans (1450) Chapon à la Pondichéry (1824) ENTRÉES. Bécassines sautées à l'Africaine (2153) Ailes de poulet à la Bodisco (1835) Ris de veau à la Napolitaine (1562) Vol-au-vent à la Financière (2396) Filets de volaille à la Lucullus(1846) Côtelettes d'agneau à la Clémence (1673) Timbales de macaroni (2988) Pain de volaille à la Villars (2304) Pigeonneaux à la Crispi (2008) Homard à la créole (1029) BUFFET. Côtes de bœuf rôties au jus (1331) Selle de mouton rôtie (1648) Haricots maître-d'hôtel (2829) Choux à la Paysanne (2706) RôTS. Canetons au cresson (1938) Mésanges moustache (2152) RELEVÉS. Pouding à l'Italienne (3101) Crèmes frites Paméla (3013) FLANCS. Le char des Cygnes (3634) La Corbeille garnie de fruits en sucre tiré(3628) CONTRE FLANCS. Gâteau ananas (3252) Nougatine (3251) ENTREMETS. Petits pois à la Ménagère (2744) Artichauts à la Rachel (2690) Gelée à la rose (3181) Charlotte à la Metternich (3144) Pain de fraises à la crème (3197) Tarte à la Rhubarbe (3204) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Fromage (3697) Café (3701) JUIN. 328 DîNER DE 12 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Comus (226) Benoîton (288) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Bouchées à la Reine (938) RELEVÉS. Saumon de Kennebec à la d'Artois (1238) Filet de bœuf au Chasseur (1462) ENTRÉES. Caneton aux cèpes (1922) Pâté chaud de foies gras à l'Alsacienne (2316) Chaudfroid de poulet à la Clara Morris (2451) Aspic de homard (2414) Sorbet Trémière (3520) RôTS. Bécassines (2159) Selle d'agneau de lait (1743) ENTREMETS. Asperges sauce crème (2692) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Croûtes de bananes à la Panama (3023) Blanc manger à la Smolenska (3138) DESSERT. Pièces montées (3628) Glaces, Cartes surprise (3549) Fruits frais (3699) Petits fours biscuits aux noisettes (3368) Fromages variés (3697) Café (3701) 329 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of carrots à la Crécy (268) Remove Trout à la Beaufort (1290) Potato fritters (2788) Entrées Calves' tongues, Périgueux (1584) Stuffed artichoke bottoms (2684) Timbales of fillets of soles à la Gauloise (2384) Roast Chicken (1881) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Portuguese apples (2998) Cold Entremets Spanish custard cream (3152) Dessert 330 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of lobster à la Cambridge (207) Remove Fresh mackerel fillets, Bonnefoy (1191) Broiled potatoes (2776) Entrées Beef tongue, macédoine (1470) Rice, Manhattan style (2977) Squab cutlets à la Périgueux (2267) Tomatoes Trévise (2836) Roast Pheasants adorned with their own plumage (2107) Cabbage salad (2659) Hot Entremets Apples with burnt almonds (3000) Mossaganem (3192) Dessert 331 JUNE. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Plumerey (238) Side Dish Célestines with foies-gras (862) Fish Striped bass à la Conti (1102) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Pullet, Egyptian style, broiled (1986) Turnips, Spanish sauce (2848) Entrées Lamb cutlets à la Signora (1686) String beans with butter (2829) Larks with rice (2084) Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce (2692) Bouquetière punch (3503) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Meringued pancakes, Rossini (3073) Plombière à la Richmond (3481) Dessert 332 JUNE. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of lobsters (205) Side Dish Timbales with red beef tongue (990) Fish Salmon à la Béarnaise (1244) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Tenderloin of beef braised with roots (1461) Entrées Breasts of chicken à la Patti (1850) Sweet peppers sautéd (2769) Mutton cutlets à la Savary (1597) Beet fritters à la Dickens (2702) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Ducklings à l'Andalouse (1930) Water cress and apple salad (2676) Hot Entremets Tyrolian pudding (3111) Strawberry ice cream (3438) Dessert 333 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Tagliarelli (339) Remove Pompano à la Anthelme (1220) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Chicken sautéd, Portuguese style (1898) Fried eggplants (2739) Artichoke bottoms and cauliflower baked (2685) Roast Turkey (2028) Salad Hot Entremets Rice croquettes with oranges, raspberry sauce (3018) Surprise bananas (3541) Dessert 334 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Mullagatawny, Indian style (327) Remove Kingfish à la Princelay (1184) Persillade potatoes (2774) Entrées Shoulder of lamb with cucumbers (1751) Green peas, English style (2742) Border of risot, Valenciennes (2212) Roast Duckling (1938) Salad Hot Entremets Alliance fritters (3036) Ice cream, Malakoff (3150) Dessert 335 JUNE. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Sévigné (242) Side Dish Croustades Perretti (900) Fish Spotted fish, mussel sauce (1284) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Tenderloin of beef à la Montebello (1454) Mushrooms à la Rivera (2758) Entrées Sweetbreads, Piedmontese style (1563) Potato and truffle salad in border (2655) Kirsch punch (3510) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Crescents of noodles with cherries (3015) (Ices) Caramel bouchées (3543) Dessert 336 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crawfish à la batelière (202) Side Dish Timbales, Mentana (974) Fish Bluefish, Havanese style (1118) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Lamb minion fillets, cream sauce (1724) Eggplant in cases à la Morton (2736) Entrées Tournedos of tenderloin of beef à la Marietta (1435) Carrots glazed with fine herbs (2712) Vol-au-vent à la Nesle (2397) Maraschino punch (3510) Roast Chicken (1881) Salad Hot Entremets Fried cream Pamela (3013) (Ices) Tortoni cups (3584) Dessert 337 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Manioca (316) Remove Brook trout à la Cambacérès (1291) Baked potatoes (2798) Entrées Loin of veal à la Saintonge (1536) Okra with barley croustades (2763) Chicken sautéd à la Marengo (1893) Rice croquettes with salpicon (2952) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Apple fritters, Montagnards (3037) Ice cream à la Cialdini (3445) Dessert 338 JUNE DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Chartreuse (297) Remove Kingfish à la Bordelaise (1181) Cucumbers (2661) Entrées Shoulder of mutton with potatoes (1652) Macaroni à la Cavalotti (2964) Squabs à la Vestal (2022) Braised onions (2765) Roast Chicken (1881) Salad Hot Entremets Frangipane pie with marrow (3088) (Iced) Fiori di latte almond milk (3469) Dessert 339 JUNE. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Bisque of mussels à la Cutting (209) Side Dish Rissolettes à la Renan (957) Fish Flounders, Genlis style (1154) Cucumbers, English style (2661) Remove Rump of beef, Greek style (1342) Potatoes with artichokes and truffles (2805) Entrées Breasts of chicken à la Chevreuse (1827) Boquillon tomatoes (2833) Sweetbreads à la Princess (1565) Asparagus tips à la Maintenon (2695) Siberian punch (3516) Roast Duckling (1938) Salad Hot Entremets Savarin with apricots (3117) Rice ice cream, paradise (3456) Dessert 340 JUNE DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Benoîton (288) Side Dish Canelons of palate of beef (858) Fish Sheepshead béchamel (1257) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Remove Loin of veal with gravy (1537) Eggplant in cases à la Morton (2736) Entrées Grenades of chicken à la Ritti (1871) Fried cucumbers (2732) Lobster à la Paul Bert (1038) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Pheasant (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Crust with cherries (3024) Ceylon with coffee ice cream (3545) Dessert 341 JUNE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of potatoes à la Benton (278) Remove Sea bass à la Villeroi (1099) Entrées Grenadins of beef with round potatoes, Valois sauce (1393) Artichoke bottoms à la Jussienne (2678) Vol-au-vent of salmon trout à la Régence (2408) Roast Duckling (1938) Macédoine salad (2650) Hot Entremets Rice border with bananas (3005) Cream with cherries (3154) Dessert 342 JUNE DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bennett (287) Remove Spanish mackerel à la Viennet (1197) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Leg of lamb, onion purée (1716) Tomatoes à la Gibbons (2841) Breasts of squab à la Duxelle, stuffed (2019) Spinach à la Noailles (2821) Roast Turkey (2028) Tomato salad (2666) Hot Entremets Strawberry fritters (3049) Rhubarb pie (3204) Dessert 343 JUNE. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Laguipierre (236) Side Dish Timbales à la Beaumarchais (960) Fish Brook trout, Montagnarde (1296) Remove Chateaubriand, Colbert sauce (1381) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Sweetbreads à la Montebello (1560) Smothered string beans (2828) Chicken sautéd à la Sandford (1899) Fried asparagus à la Miranda (2696) Elizabeth punch (3507) Roast Pheasant (2107) Italian salad (2635) Hot Entremets Strawberry soufflé (3122) (Ice) Lemons in surprise (3557) Dessert 344 JUNE DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of artichokes, Morlaisienne (246) Side Dish Capon croquettes à la Royale (876) Fish Bass à la Conti (1102) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Remove Tenderloin of beef, Indian style (1463) Beets with cream (2702) Entrées Pigeons, monarch style (1964) Asparagus tips with cheese (2697) Small croustades of sweetbreads (2251) Cauliflower à la Villeroi (2716) Mephisto sherbet (3524) Roast Chicken (1881) Salad Hot Entremets Munich with peaches (3055) (Ice) Italian mousse (3475) Dessert JUILLET. 345 DîNER DE 24 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Britannia (221) Bisque de crevettes à la Veragua (0211) POISSON. Saumon sauce marinade (1245) GROSSES PIèCES. Selle d'agneau rôtie au jus (1746) Jambon rôti à la broche sauce madère (1789) ENTRÉES. Côtelettes de poulet à la Clarence (2258) Noisettes de filet de bœuf à la Rossini (1417) Ris de veau à la Princesse (1565) Caisses de pigeonneaux Umberto (2234) RôTS. Canetons au cresson (1938) Perdreaux anglais grillés (2085) RELEVÉS. Compeigne au sabayon (3009) Crème frite Paméla (3013) ENTREMETS. Maïs bouilli en tiges (2730) Fonds d'artichauts béchamel à la crème gratinés (2686) Moscovite aux fraises (3191) Pouding glacé à la Fleury (3493) Punch à la Siberienne (3516) BUFFET. Consommé semoule (316) Longe de veau au jus (1537) Noix de bœuf salée Écarlate à l'Anglaise (1316) Chouxfleurs au fromage gratinés (2717) Haricots verts étuvés (2828) Cantaloup (799) JUILLET. 346 DîNER DE 16 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Andalouse (216) Crème de maïs Mendocino (256) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à la Ristori (982) POISSON. Kingfish à la Bella (1180) Pommes de terre fondantes (2799) Salade de concombres (2661) RELEVÉ. Double d'agneau garni de croquettes de pommes (1736) Tomates à la Boquillon (2833) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Valerri (1856) Petits pois à la Française (2743) Ris de veau à la St. Cloud (1566) Haricots verts à la Pettit (2827) Punch à la Béatrice (3502) RÒT. Pigeonneaux (2018) Salade de romaine (2675) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Bavarois aux framboises (3134) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) Glaces Manchons Déjazet (3567) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3640) Petits fours (3364) Devises (3653) Café (3701) 347 JULY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Macaroni (339) Remove Pompano à la Potentini (1225) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Entrées Roast duck with cherries (1923) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Sweetbreads à la Columbus (1553) Glazed turnips (2847) Roast Leg of lamb with gravy (1715) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Savarin with apricots (3117) Renaissance pudding (3210) Dessert 348 JULY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Mussels à la Vigo (328) Remove Baked kingfish (1186) Viennese potatoes (2812) Entrées Calf ears, tomato sauce (1505) Stuffed green peppers (2768) Stewed pigeons (1967) Sautéd mushrooms à la Dumas (2757) Roast Ptarmigan (2072) Salad Hot Entremets Pancakes with orange-flower water (3078) White coffee ice cream (3460) Dessert 349 JULY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé printanier with quenelles (239) Side Dish Mousseline à la Waleski (916) Fish Pike perch, Continental style (1218) Persillade potatoes (2790) Remove Beef tongue à la Soligny (1468) Stuffed onions (2766) Entrées Duckling à la Bordelaise (1931) Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) Mayonnaise of chicken (2625) Champagne punch (3504) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Soufflés with raspberries (3122) (Iced) Romanoff pudding (3497) Dessert 350 JULY. DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of peas, St. Germain (260) Side Dish Cromesquis of bass (870) Fish Small lobster, Bordelaise (1026) Remove Glazed pullet à la printanière (1980) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrées Sweetbreads, English style (1571) Sautéd sweet peppers (2769) Beef palate, tourte, Parisian style (2390) Parfait amour sherbet (3526) Roast Ducklings (1938) Water-cress salad (2676) Hot Entremets Cream with apples (3014) (Iced) Plombière, Havanese style (3484) Dessert 351 JULY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Clear mock turtle (354) Remove Spanish mackerel with crawfish (1198) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Entrées Loin of lamb with sautéd tomatoes (1718) Artichoke bottoms à la Mornay (2680) Timbale of sweetbreads, modern (2388) Roast Tame ducks à la Siebrecht (1919) Cos-lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Brioche fritters with sabayon (3040) (Iced) Bomb, Fifth avenue (3440) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 352 JULY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cold, Russian style (302) Remove Bluefish in papers (1120) Entrées Leg of lamb, green sauce (1706) Breaded fried cucumbers (2732) Chickens sautéd à la Madeleine (1891) Beet fritters à la Dickens (2702) Italian salad (2635) Roast Stuffed squabs, American style (2012) Salad Hot Entremets Déjazet pancakes (3172) Melon water-ice (3603) Dessert 353 JULY. DINNER, 12 TO 16 PERSONS MENU. Soup Lamb sweetbreads, German style (320) Side Dish Mousselines Isabella (912) Fish Codfish, Norwegian style (1137) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Sirloin of beef à la de Lesseps (1352) Eggplant à la Robertson (2737) Entrées Squabs with Colbert sauce (2013) Sautéd string beans (2829) Timbale of Gnocquis à la Choiseul (2987) Paradise sherbet (3525) Roast Pheasant (2107) Tomato salad (2666) Hot Entremets Crusts with bananas à la Panama (3023) Rice with apricots (3214) Dessert 354 JULY. DINNER, 12 TO 16 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of peas with croûtons (282) Side Dish Timbales, Périgordine (979) Fish Porgies à la Manhattan (1229) Duchess potatoes (2785) Remove Sirloin of beef à la Dégrange (1351) Cauliflower with fried bread crumbs (2718) Entrées Duck with cèpes (1922) Succotash (2731) Lamb cutlets à la Périgueux (1683) Glazed cucumbers (2733) Imperial punch (3509) Roast Chicken (1881) White cabbage salad (2659) Hot Entremets Croustade of Venice meringued (3020) (Ice) Cherry Plombière (3485) Dessert AOûT 355 DîNER DE 30 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Lucines orangées (803) POTAGE. Consommé Antonelli (217) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Palmettes Primatice (923) POISSON. Bass rayé à la Long Branch (1104) Pommes de terre duchesse (2785) RELEVÉ. Filet de bœuf à la Godard (1451) Concombres à la Villeroi (2732) ENTRÉES. Poulet sauté à la Finnoise (1889) Petits pois Fleurette (2741) Ris de veau Zurich (1579) Haricots de Lima maître-d'hôtel(2699) Punch à la Romaine (3515) RôT. Selle de Chevreuil (2194) Salade de romaine (2675) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Pouding soufflé aux amandes pralinées (3113) Gâteau Chamounix (3235) Gelée aux fruits (3187) Glaces Variées Dessert AOût. 356. DîNER DE 10 COUVERTS - SERVICE a LA RUSSE. MENU. Lucines (803) POTATGE. Consommé Bariatenski (219) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Coulibiae à la Russe (908) POISSON. Grouper à la Franklyn (1162) RELEVÉ. Selle d'agneau à la Chancelière (1739) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Béranger (1834) Ris de veau à la La Vallière (1557) Punch à la Romaine (3515) RôT. Pigeonneaux (2018) ENTREMETS. Petits pois à la Française (2743) Beignets de Cerises (3042) Cornets à la crème à l'orange (3148) DESSERT. Pièces montées ou corbeilles de fleurs (3628) Compotes (3686) Fruits fruis (3699) Petits fours (3364) PETIT BUFFET. Xérès, Absinthe, Vermuth, Kümmel Caviar (778) Olives farcies (801) Tartelettes nonpareil (825) Canapés de homard (777) Crevettes en raviers ou en bateaux (819) 357 AUGUST DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chamberlain (295) Remove Pike perch à la Financière (1214) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Lamb cutlets à la Catalane (1671) Green peas, French style (2743) Chicken sautéd with fine herbs (1907) Lima beans maitre-d'hôtel (2699) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Semolina croquettes, pistachio sauce (3019) (Iced) Semiramis mousse (3471) 358 AUGUST DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Sorrel, Flemish style (347) Remove Black bass with sweet peppers (1097) Potato croquettes (2782) Entrées Stuffed shoulder of lamb with glazed vegetables (1752) Squab fritters, Oporto sauce (2020) Trévise tomatoes (2836) Roast Pheasant (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Venetian meringued croustade (3020) Cialdini ice cream (3445) 359 August. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of Guinea fowl à la Washburn (279) Side Dish Attéreaux of chicken à la d'Antin (837) Fish Pompano Mazarin (1224) Potato croquettes (2782) Remove Pullet minion fillets à la Montpensier (1999) Stuffed tomatoes, Trévise (2836) Entrées Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) Artichoke bottoms, soubise (2681) Woodcock hash in a croustade with soft eggs (2302) Rebecca sherbet (3528) Roast Saddle of venison (2194) Salad Hot Entremets Spanish pudding (3110) Mushrooms, ice cream (3568) Dessert 360 AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bragance (290) Side Dish Bondons of pickerel, Walton (844) Fish Striped bass à la Rouennaise (1108) Broiled potatoes with fried bread raspings (2776) Remove Sirloin of beef with calf's brain patties (1355) Stuffed green peppers (2768) Entrées Fillet of Guinea fowl à la Gaillardet (1957) Carrots with cream (2714) Frog legs à la Royer (1023) Nenuphar punch (3513) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Pudding, Scotch style (3108) (Iced) Parfait with nougat (3478) Dessert 361 AUGUST. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cabbage (292) Remove Salmon, Daumont (1239) Gastronome potatoes (2789) Entrées Noisettes of mutton à la Provençal (1611) Carrots, Colbert (2711) Chicken vol-au-vent with mushrooms (2399) Roast Partridges (2102) Salad Hot Entremets Golden crusts (3021) Cherries with cream (3154) Dessert 362 AUGUST. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Spaghetti (339) Remove Pike perch à la Royale (1216) Potato cakes with ham (2779) Entrées Grenadins of beef, Marc Aureìe (1389) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Broiled pullet, tartar sauce (1991) Breaded and fried cucumbers (2732) Russian salad (2645) Roast Reedbirds (2152) Hot Entremets Mirlitons of pears à la Bienvenue (3054) Ice cream with black coffee (3463) Dessert 363 AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crawfish à la Humboldt (203) Side Dish Scotch Timbales (985) Fish Sheepshead, Buena Vista, (1259) Potato fritters (2788) Remove Tenderloin of beef with truffles (1429) Eggplant, Duperret (2735) Entrées Duckling, peasant style (1939) Glazed and larded sweetbreads with cèpes, Bordelaise (1574) Green peas, English style (2742) Stanley punch (3518) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Crusts with pineapple and apricot sauce (3022) Sicilian ice cream (3579) Dessert 364 AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Florentine (232) Side Dish Patties, Queen style (938) Fish Salmon à la Victoria (1243) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Young turkey with turnips (2043) Baked artichoke bottoms béchamel (2686) Entrées Sweetbreads studded, Spanish style (1577) Stuffed peppers (2768) Fillet of sole tourte à la Financière (2392) Paquerette sherbet (3527) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Fried cream, Maintenon (3010) (Iced) Soufflé Alcazar (3533) Dessert SEPTEMBRE. 365 DîNER DE 18 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Lucines orangées (803) POTAGES. Consommé à la crème de faisan (227) Tortue verte liée (353) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Bressoles de foies gras (848) RELEVÉS. Bass rayé gratiné au vin blanc (1113) Pommes marquise (2797) Cuissot de chevreuil à la Francatelli (2183) Laitues braisées au jus (2754) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet au supréme (1858) Petits pois à la Parisienne (2745) Timbale de homard à la d'Aumale (2385) Haricots verts Bourguignonne (2826) Punch à la Favorite (3508) RôT. Perdreaux sauce au pain (2102) FROID. Aspics de foies gras (2411) Salade de laitues (2672) ENTREMETS SUCHÉS. Pommes à la Nelson (2991) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) Gelée aux fruits et au kirsch (3187) Pièces montées (3628) Glace Bacchus (3590) Le puits (3591) Dessert (3701) SEPTEMBRE. 366 DîNER DE 200 COUVERTS -À LA RUSSE. MENU. HORS-D'ŒUVRE FROIDS. Estomacs d'oie fumés (822) Hareng diablé (777) Jambon de Westphalie (786) Melon cantaloup (799) Huitres (803) POTAGES. Consommé Franklyn (233) Bisque d'écrevisses Persigny (204) HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUDS. Timbales à la Benton (961) Croquettes de brochet à la Romaine (890) POISSONS. Halibut à l'Amiral (1167) Éperlans Gondolière (1266) RELEVÉS. Baron d'agneau tardif à la de Rivas (1661) Dindes à la Française (2029) ENTRÉES. Quenelles de tétras à la Londonderry (2332) Casseroles de ris d'agneau à la de Luynes (2238) Chaudfroid de béeassines en buisson (2461) Salade de homard à l'Américaine (2638) RôTS. Pintades piquées garnies de leur plumages (1956) Selle de Chevreuil (2194) LÉGUMES. Chicorée à la crème (2729) Choux de Bruxelles sautés (2704) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS. Ananas Caroline (3090) Gelée d'oranges en tasses (3180) Bavarois en surprise (3132) FLANCS. Gâteaux Chamounix (3235) Baba au Marsala (3002) DESSERT. Pièces montées (3628) Compotes (3686) Petits fours (3364) Fromages (3697) Devises (3653) Glaces variées (3538) Fruits frais (3699) Bonbons (3642) Amandes salées (3696) Café et liqueurs (3701) SEPTEMBRE. 367 DîNER DE 20 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. 2 POTAGES. Consommé Britannia (221) Bisque de homard (205) 2 POISSONS. Maquereau Espagnol à la Périgord (1196) Sheepshead au court bouillon (1262) 2 RELEVÉS. Filet de bœuf Rothschild (1457) Selle de mouton à l'Allemande (1645) 4 ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Génin (1843) Cèpes farcis (2726) Palais de veau à la Sévigné (1539) Haricots verts sautés (2829) Noisettes de chevreuil à la Thierry (2196) Croûtes aux champignons (2759) Soufflés de homard (2363) 2 RôTS. Oie à la Royer (1946) Vanneaux à la Dumanoir (2122) 2 RELEVÉS. Omelettes fourrées aux fraises (3068) St. Honoré Sultane (3261) 4 ENTREMETS. Petits pois à la Française (2743) Timbale Nantaise (2381) Croûtes dorées (3021) Rhubarbe à la crème (3204) BUFFET. Paillettes au fromage (823) Marcassin sauce marinade garni de côtelettes et poitrine (2049) Jambon rôti sauce Madère (1789) Langues de bœuf à la Romaine (1467) Épinards bouillis (2823) SEPTEMBRE. 368 DîNER DE 18 COUVERTS - SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. Huîtres (803) HORS-D'ŒUVRE FROIDS. Artichauts poivrade (778) Olives farcies aux anchois (801) Bœuf fumé (822) Canapés d'écrevisses (777) Cornichons (785) Thon mariné (831) POTAGES. Consommé Colbert aux œufs pochés (225) Crème de riz Crémieux (249) HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUD. Timbales Lagardère (970) RELEVÉS. Bass rayée Maintenon (1105) Filet de bœuf à la Richelieu Moderne (1456) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Lorenzo (1845) Côtelettes d'agneau à la Talma (1687) Ris de veau à la Marsilly (1559) Filet de tétras à la Tzarine (2073) ENTRÉES FROIDES SUR SOCLES. Aspic de poularde à la Cussy (2418) Pâté de foies gras de Strasbourg (2564) INTERMèDE. Sorbet Californienne (3523) RôTS. Dinde truffée garnie d'olives noires (2031) Bécassines anglaises au cresson (2159) ENTREMETS. Petits pois Parisienne (2745) Choux de Bruxelles sautés (2704) Gelée à la rose (3181) Charlotte de pommes à la Destrey (3007) GROS GATEAUX. Vacherin (3264) Nongatine (3251) DESSERT. Fruits (3699) Compotes (3686) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 369 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Monteille (325) Remove Blackfish à la Orly (1114) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Squabs, English style (2014) Tomatoes, Provençal (2835) Veal tongue, Flemish style (1583) Fried oyster plant(2817) Roast Snipe (2159) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Hot Entremets Golden Lion flawn (3035) Iced biscuit, Diplomate (3435) Stewed fruits (3686) Coffee (3701) 370 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of chicory, Evers (258) Remove Kingfish, Batelière (1179) Mashed potatoes (2798) Entrées Pullet à la Arco Valley (1971) Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) Paupiettes of beef with fine herbs (1421) Lima beans, maitre-d'hôtel (2699) Roast Larded partridges with gravy and water-cress (2102) Hot Entremets Light pancakes with jams (3079) (Iced) Bomb Fifth avenue (3440) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert 371 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of squash (268) Side Dish Small patties, Victoria (942) Fish Halibut à la Coligny (1168) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Beef tenderloin à la printauière (1464) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Entrées Partridge fillets à la Véron (2089) Artichoke bottoms with cauliflower (2685) Reedbird patty (2312) Elizabeth punch (3507) Roast Saddle of venison (2194) Salad Hot Entremets Apricots with rice à la Jefferson (3001) Pineapple water ice (3606) Dessert 372 SEPTEMBER DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Paterson (340) Side Dish Rissoles of crawfish, Béatrice (949) Fish Striped bass, Berey (1101) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Haunch of roebuck à la Bouchard (2178) Fried artichokes (2683) Entrées Guinea fowl with sauerkraut (1958) Broiled potatoes (2776) Braised and stuffed woodcock (2209) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Paradise sherbet (3525) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Salad Hot Entremets Apples à la Nelson (2991) Bavarian cream with chocolate (3131) (Iced) Cavour pudding (3489) Dessert 373 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Croûte au pot (305) Remove Fresh mackerel maître-d'hôtel (1193) Tomato salad (2666) Entrées Grenadins of beef with potatoes, Valois sauce (1393) Sautéd string beans (2829) Timbale of noodles, Milanese (2988) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Macédoine (2650) Hot Entremets Soufflé fritters, Médicis (3047) Biscuit glacé, Diplomate (3435) Dessert 374 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of wild duck, Van Buren (283) Remove Fresh codfish, egg sauce (1139) Boiled potatoes(2774) Entrées Leg of lamb with carrots (1714) Stuffed artichoke bottoms (2684) Woodcock stewed à la Dumas (2199) Beets sautéd in butter (2702) Roast Chicken in the pan (1881) Tomato salad (2666) Hot Entremets Custard cream with apples (3014) Caramel ice cream (3447) Dessert 375 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 10 TO 14 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Macaronicelli (339) Side Dish Kulibiac Smolenska (909) Fish Flounders, Dieppoise (1153) Cucumber salad (2661) Remove Sirloin of beef à la Thieblin (1354) Straw potatoes (2792) Entrées Fillets of partridges à la Véron (2089) Marrow squash with parmesan (2824) Breasts of woodcock à la Houston (2201) Smothered string beans (2828) Golgorouski punch (3506) Roast Canvasback ducks (2055) Salad Hot Entremets Peach fritters, Maraschino (3039) (Iced) Timbales. Algerian style (3580) Dessert 376 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 10 TO 14 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of lobster à la Benoist (206) Side Dish Andalusian patties (934) Fish Salmon trout, Antoinette (1302) Potato croquettes (2782) Remove Hind saddle of lamb, Chancelière (1739) Lima bean succotash (2731) Entreées Fillets of canvasback with orange juice (2058) Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) Breasts of chicken, Princière (1852) Sautéd sweet peppers (2769) American sherbet (3521) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Peaches à la Condé (3081) (Iced) Plombière Rochambeau (3482) Dessert 377 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of plovers à la Théo (271) Remove Blackfish à la Villaret (1116) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrées Gosling stewed with turnips (1954) String beans Bourguignonne (2826) Beef palates à la Béchamel (1326) Fried eggplants (2739) Roast Reedbirds (2152) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Hot Entremets Chestnut croquettes (3017) Cold Entremets Waffle buckets with cream (3128) Fresh fruits (3699) 378 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Mock turtle (355) Remove Pike perch, Russian style (1217) Persillade potatoes (2774) Entrées Quarter of lamb with stuffed tomatoes (1731) Carrots, cream sauce (2714) Venison grenadins à la royale (2195) Spinach, Rougemont (2822) Roast Young pigeons stuffed (2018) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Madeira crusts (3026) Peach ice cream à la Herbster (3453) Dessert 379 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Florence snow (339) Side Dish Richmond mousseline (914) Fish Aiguillettes of bass with oyster crabs (1096) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Haunce of venison à la Lytton (2179) Stuffed tomatoes, Trévise (2836) Entrées Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) Lima beans, maître-d'hôtel (2699) Baked snipe (2156) Rebecca sherbet (3528) Roast Grouse, bread sauce (2072) Chocory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Rice with apples (3115) (Iced) Serano pudding (3498) Dessert 380 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of chicken à la Reine (270) Side Dish Bateaux of fat liver, Russian style (843) Fish Salmon, Genevoise (1246) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Remove Ribs of beef, Hindostan (1330) Cabbage, peasant style (2706) Entrées Chicken sautéd, Maryland (1894) Peas with minced lettuce (2747) Border of risot, Valenciennes (2212) Champagne punch (3504) Roast Woodcock (2206) Romaine salad (2675) Hot Entremets Mazarine with pineapples (3053) Plombière d'Alençon (3483) Dessert 381 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Partridge à la Royale (338) Muskmelon (799) Remove Sea bass à la Villeroi (1099) Cucumber salad (2662) Entrées Veal cutlets à la Zingara (1498) Celeriae knobs, Mirabeau (2722) Lobster à la Gambetta (1033) Roast Chicken in the saucepan (1881) Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Benvenuto pudding (3092) Brazil nuts ice cream (3464) Dessert 382 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oysters with powdered okra (336) Remove Salmon à l'Argentine (1237) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrées Chicken sautéd, Parisian style (1904) Carrots with cream (2714) Mushrooms mousserons à la Reynal (2756) Roast Mallard ducks (2059) Dandelion salad (2670) Hot Entremets Mellow pudding, apricot sauce (3094) St. Jacques cups (3560) 383 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of grouse à la Manhattan (272) Side Dish Cocks' kidneys, Villeroi (864) Fish Kingfish fillets, Valençay (2528) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Beef tenderloin, Solohub (1459) Eggplant, Duperret (2735) Entrées Pullet with oysters (1994) Cauliflower, white sauce (2719) Vol-au-vent Financière (2396) Purgny punch (3514) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Peaches à la Colbert (3080) Bomb with printanier fruits (3441) Dessert 384 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of cauliflower à la Brisson (251) Side Dish Small patties with shrimps (935) Fish Turbot rémoulade sauce (2613) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Braised breast of veal à la Bourdaloue (1487) Glazed turnips (2847) Entrées Venison cutlets, Parisian tomato sauce (2174) Stuffed cucumbers (2734) Fillets of partridge à la Véron (2089) Artichoke bottoms, fried (2683) Venetian sherbet (3529) Roast English snipe (2159) Salad Hot Entremets Cream of rice fritters (3043) (Iced) Italian mousse (3475) Dessert OCTOBRE. 385 DîNER DE 24 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Consommé Franklyn (233) Tortue verte (353) POISSONS. Carpe à la Chambord (1129) Filets de soles à la Marguery (1273) RELEVÉS. Selle de venaison panée aux cerises noires (2192) Dindonneau piqué rôti purée d'artichauts (2042) ENTRÉES. Boudins de volaille à la Soubise (2215) Mauviettes à la maréchale (2081) Attéreaux de palais de bœuf (836) Petits vol-au-vent à la Lucini (2404) FROID. Mousselines de foies gras à la Dana (2535) Chaudfroid de perdreaux à la Béatrice (2455) RôTS. Canetons à la Rouennaise (1937)Courlis (2051) RELEVÉS. Petites omelettes à la Célestine (3056) Pommes en surprise (2995) ENTREMETS. Laitues farcies demi-glace (2753) Fonds d'artichauts, Montglas (2679) Gelée Tunisienne rubanée (3184) Flan à la Manhattan (3034) Haricots verts au beurre (2829) Salade Italienne (2635) Pouding Saxonne (3107) Gaufres Brisselets crème à la framboise (3223) BUFFET. Aloyau bœuf rôti (1346) Moelle sur croûtes grillées (1319) Compotes (3686) Quartier de mouton aux pommes Gastronome (1642) Salade à la Parisienne (2644) Tarte à la crème (3201) Consommé semoule (316) OCTOBRE. 386 DîNER DE 26 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Caviar (778) Radis (808) Auchois (772) Olives (800) Huîtres et citrons (803) 2 POTAGES. Consommé à la Royale (241) Purée de levraut St. James (274) 2 HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUDS. Timbales à la Talleyrand (988) Rissoles de palais de bœuf (952) 2 RELEVÉS. Bass rayé aux fines herbes (1112) Filet de bœuf à la Bayonnaise (1443) 4 ENTRÉES CHAUDES. Ailes de poulet à l'Impératrice (1841) Ris de veau à la parisienne (1576) Pâté chaud de bécasses (2319) Côtelettes de faisan Réginald (2262) 2 FLANCS. Pâté de foies gras decoupé(2563) Ballotines de cailles à la Tivollier (2426) Punch à la Montmorency (3512) 2 RôTS. Selle d'antilope sauce aigrelette (2190) Poularde au cresson(1996) 2 PLATS VOLANTS. Soufflé au parmesan (2983) Tartelettes de crème au fromage (765) 4 ENTREMETS. Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Tomates en caisses gratinées (2839) Croûtes aux poires à la Douglas (3028) Pouding Castellane (3206) 2 FLANCS. Gâteau Breton (3232) Maréchal Ney (3189) Glace bombe aux fruits printaniere (3441) Ananas en surprise (3595) Assiettes montées de bonbons (3642) Compotes (3686) Fruits (3699) 4 Tambours garnis de petits fours et macarons (3364). Dessert. OCTOBRE. 387 DîNER DE 20 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA RUSSE. (Service par 10) MENU. 20 Plats d'huitres et citrons (803) 2 POTAGES. 1 Soupière de Brunoise aux quenelles (291) 1 Soupière de purée de canards sauvages, Van Buren (283) 2 HORS-D'ŒUVRE CHAUDS. 2 Timbales Montgomery (975) 2 POISSONS. 1 Pompano à la Mazarin (1224) 1 Cabillaud à la Duxelle au gratin (1136) 2 RELEVÉS. 2 Dindes cloutées à la Sartiges (2027) 4 ENTRÉES. 1 Epigrammes de chevreuil sauce marinade aux truffes (2176) 1 Ris de veau à la Maltaise (1558) 1 Aspic de foies gras (2411) 1 Côtelettes de homard Lowery (2476) Punch Trémière (3520) 2 RôTS. Bécasses sur canapés à la Périgord (2205) 1 Cochon de lait farci et rôti à la broche (1810) 2 LÉGUMES. 1 Céleri sauce Mirabeau (2722) 1 Petits pois aux laitues braisées (2746) 4 ENTREMETS. 1 Pommes à la Portugaise (2998) 1 Munich aux pêches (3055) 1 Buisson de meringues (3212) 1 Gelée aux violettes (3185) 2 FLANCS. 1 Gâteau Mille fouilles Pompadour (3247) Gâteau Napolitain (3250) Dessert. OCTOBRE. 388 DîNER DE 50 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Huîtres (803) POTAGES. Consommé Duchesse (230) Bisque d'écrevisses (201) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à la Rothschild (983) POISSONS. Sheepshead Bourguignonne (1258) Plie à la Jules Janin (1156) RELEVÉS. Selle de chevreuil à la sauce au vin d'Oporto et gelée de groseille (2193) Fonds d'artichauts à la Jussienne (2678) ENTRÉES. Tournedos de filet de bœuf aux haricots verts (1440) Ailes de poulet à la Marceau (1847) Petits pois Parisienne (2745) Caisses de ris de veau à la Grammont (2235) Tomates Trévise (2836) Coquilles de truffes béchamel au gratin (2844) Sorbet Californienne (3523) RôT. Perdreaux (2102) FROID. Terrine de pluviers et mauviettes (2601) Salade de laitues (2672) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Mazarine à l'ananas au kirsch (3053) Gelée à l'orange en tasses (3180) Nid garni d'œufs (3594) Charlotte Russe (3145) Pouding à la Waddington (3500) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) 389 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Pickled oysters (802) Soup Gumbo with hard crabs, creole style (313) Remove Sheepshead à la Bourguignonne (1258) Potato cakes (2779) Entrées Beef tongue à la Romaine (1407) Boiled onions, Hollandaise sauce (2764) Paupiettes of hare with stuffed olives (2080) Carrots, cream sauce (2714) Roast Reedbirds (2152) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Compiègne cake with sabayon (3009) (Iced) Caramel bouchées (3543) Dessert 390 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Calf's tail, Rundell (294) Remove Smelts à la Norfolk (1267) Broiled potatoes (2776) Entrées Roebuck fillets à la Lorenzo (2177) Noodles à la Lauer(2970) Chicken sautéd à la d'Antin (1885) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Roast Squabs (2018) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Custard cream of chestnut caramel (3012) Peach ice cream à la Herbster (3453) 391 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Barley with celery (285) Side Dish Fat liver croquettes, Dauphine (885) Fish Sole à la Normande (1274) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Turkey à la Chipolata, stuffed (2034) Sautéd Brussels sprouts (2704) Entrées Palate of beef in tortue (1328) Fried eggplant (2739) Plover à la Stoughton (2115) Oriental rice (2978) Andalusian sherbet (3522) Roast Saddle of venison (2194) Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Peaches à la Stevens (3084) (Iced) Rabbit in surprise (3596) Dessert 392 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Montorgueil (326) Side Dish Timbales à la Marly (978) Fish Redsnapper à la Demidoff (1234) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Saddle of venison à la Morion (2188) Baked tomatoes (2837) Entrées Pullet à la Mornay (1977) Smothered string beans (2828) Salmis of woodcock à la Sanford (2208) Fried celery (2064) Nenuphar punch (3513) Roast Redhead ducks(2063) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Peaches, Richelieu (3083) (Iced) Sicilian pudding (3499) Dessert 393 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oysters, French style (335) Remove Frostfish, Cherbourg style (1159) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Entrées Rump of beef, modern style (1345) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Chicken sautéd à la Dumas (1888) Baked stuffed tomatoes (2887) Roast Leg of mutton on the spit (1633) Romaine salad(2675) Hot Entremets Baba Marsala (3002) La Grandina ice cream (3556) Dessert 394 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Purée of woodcock à la Théo (271) Remove Flounders à la Madeleine (1157) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Leg of mutton à la Chipolata (1625) Parsnip cakes fried in butter (2767) Pigeons garnished with Montgias cases (1962) Green peas with shedded lettuce (2747) Roast Mallard ducks (2059) Water-cress salad (2676) Hot Entremets Orange fritters à la Talleyrand (3045) (Cold) Printanière crown (3158) Dessert 395 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Cream of rice à la Crémieux (249) Side Dish Rissoles of partridge à la Waddington (955) Fish Striped bass, Rouen style (1108) Potato tartlets (2810) Remove Saddle of venison larded aigrelette sauce (2190) Artichoke bottoms à la Florence (2677) Entrées Chicken sautéd, point du jour (1902) Fedelini Cardinal (2953) Vol-au-vent à la Nesle (2397) Young America sherbet (3580) Roast Partridges (2102) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Pudding à la de Freese (3099) (Ices) Hen and chicks (3594) Dessert 396 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of partridge à la d'Henin (276) Side Dish Imperial timbales (968) Fish Fresh codfish, Norwegian style (1137) Snow potatoes (2798) Remove Sirloin of beef à la Perrin (1353) Oyster plant with find herbs (2817) Entrées Pullet à la Villars (1982) Mushrooms with cream (2761) Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) Baked tomatoes (2837) Tosca punch (3519) Roast English snipe (2159) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Apples à la Giudici (2990) Charlotte Corday ice cream (3546) Dessert 397 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of wild squabs, Waleski (277) Remove Carp à la Chambord (1129) Viennese potatoes (2812) Entrées Snipe à l'Africaine (2153) Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) Chicken sautéd à la Bourguignonne (1884) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Knob celeriac fritters (3041) (Iced) Diplomate biscuits (3435) Dessert 398 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chicken and leeks (298) Remove Buffalo fish à la Bavaroise (1125) Potato fritters (2788) Entrées Roast goose à la Thieblin (1947) Macaroni with cream and truffles (2962) Mutton cutlets with cucumbers (1603) Fried eggplant (2739) Roast Plovers (2119) Cucumber salad (2661) Hot Entremets Crusts of pears, Douglas (3028) Mousse of fruits with pineapple (3474) Dessert 399 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of wild turkey, Sartiges (284) Side Dish Mousseline of woodcock (918) Fish Blackfish à la Sanford (1115) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Suckling pig à la Piedmontese (1809) Noodles à la Lauer (2970) Entrées Pullet à la Seymour (1981) Glazed endives (2740) English snipe in papers (2158) Andalouse sherbet (3522) Roast Canvasback ducks (2055) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Apples with praslin (3000) Leona ice cream (3558) Dessert 400 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Green turtle (353) Side Dish Palmettes of pullet à la Clinton (930) Fish Spotted fish, green ravigote sauce (1286) Potato croquettes (2782) Remove Roast goose, German style (1948) Braised onions (2765) Entrées Grenadins of beef with celery béchamel (1392) Smothered string beans(2828) Cases of thrushes à la Diana (2237) Tomatoes Trévise (2836) Montmorency punch (3512) Roast Partridges (2102) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Hot Entremets Peach pudding, Cleveland (3102) Burnt almond Angelica ice cream (3455) Dessert 401 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oxtail à la Soyer (332) Remove Baked finnan haddies (1166) Viennese potatoes (2812) Entrées Turkey wings with celery and chestnuts (2039) Fried oyster plant (2817) Slices of kernel of venison in papers(2182) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Roast Partridges with gravy (2102) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Pancakes à la Déjazet (3072) (Ice) Flori di latte with violettes (3470) Dessert 402 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Spanish Oilla (349) Remove Salmon à la moderne (1242) Potato croquettes (2782) Entrées Boiled chicken, English style (1912) Lima beans, maitre-d'hôtel (2699) Grenadins of mutton, poivrade sauce (1609) Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) Remove English snipe (2159) Romaine salad (2675) Hot Entremets Timbale Figaro (3123) Andalusian ice cream (3446) Dessert 403 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of artichokes, Morlaisienne (246) Side Dish Rissoles of fat liver à la Ude (951) Fish Spanish mackerel à la Viennet (1197) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Remove Saddle of venison à la MacMahon (2187) Macaroni, Parisian style (2961) Entrées Plovers à la Moutauban (2114) Tomatoes, Provençal style (2835) Boudins of chicken au Cardinal (2216) Mushrooms, under bells(2761) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Squabs (2018) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Tyrolian pudding (3111) (Iced) Moutesquien plombière (3480) Dessert 404 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of lobster à la Portland (208) Side Dish Timbales à la Marly (973) Fish Soles à la Lutèce (1272) Potatoes with melted butter (2790) Remove Pullet à la Mornay (1977) Fried artichoke bottoms (2683) Entrées Lamb cutlets à la Clémentine (1673) String beans à la Bourguignonne (2826) Breasts of woodcock à la Vatel (2203) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Trémière punch (3520) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Dandelion salad (2670) Hot Entremets Apples à la Nelson (2991) Poupelins (3091) (Iced) Romanoff pudding (3497) Dessert NOVEMBRE. 405 DîNER DE 24 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. 2 POTAGES. Consommé aux nids d'hirondelles (244) Tortue verte liée (353) 2 RELEVÉS DE POISSON. Bass rayé à la Rouennaise (1108) Crabes d'huitres frits (1005) 2 GROSSES PIèCES. Baron de mouton au four à la purée de pommes (1650) Filet de bœuf à la Montebello (1454) 8 ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Chiselhurst (1837) Terrapène à la Baltimore (1083) Ris de veau au chancelier (1569) Pâté chaud de foies gras à l'Alsaeienne (2316) Poularde braisée Demidoff(1973) Pain de lapereau à la Maintenon (2308) Filets de bécasses à la Diane (2200) Salade de homard à l'Américaine (2638) 2 PLATS DE RôTS. Canards ruddy (2066) Chapon au crosson (1826) 8 ENTREMETS. Petits pois Parisienne (2745) Fonds d'artichauts Florence (2677) Pouding soufflé Saxonne (3107) Gelée au kirsch (3187) Céleri à la moelle (2721) Choux de Bruxelles Baronne (2703) Glace asperges sauce au marasquin (3540) Bavarois au chocolat (3131) 2 GROSSES PIèCES D'ENTREMETS. La hotte à la Denivelle(3636) Le Char des Cygnes (3634) Dessert. NOBEMBRE. 406 DîNER DE 25 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. Premier Service. 2 POTAGES. Consommé Charmel (224) Crème d'ogre Viennoise (249) 2 POISSONS. Sheepshead sauce Cardinal (1261) Sandre à la Durance (1213) 2 RELEVÉS. Selle de mouton rôtie (1648) Filet de bœuf à la Cauchoise (1446) 6 ENRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Cussy (1838) Ris de veau à la Maltaise (1558) Mignons de chevreuil à la Lorenzo (2177) Filets de pluvier à la Victor Hugo (2117) Timbales de levraut (2389) Côtelettes de tétras à la Ségard (2259) 2 FLANCS. Brissotins de volaille au suprême (849) Mousseline au Cardinal (910) Deuxième Service. 2 RôTS. Canards à tête rouge (2063) Poulet à la casserole (1881) 6 ENTREMETS. Céleri à la moelle (2791) Beignets d'ananas Singapour (3046) Bordure Caroline au champagne (3140) Haricots verts à la Pettit (2827) Crème de marrons au caramel (3012) Gelée aux fruits (3187) 2 RELEVÉS. Glaces Cantaloup en surprise (3591) Biscuit à l'Hernani (3228) Dessert. BUFFET. Rosbif d'Aloyan à l'Anglaise (1346) Salade de laitues (2672) P ommes de terre grillées (2776) Noix de bœuf salée à l'écarlate (1316) Potage au riz à la Rudini (343) NOVEMBRE. 407 DîNER DE 40 COUVERTS - SERVICE À LA RUSSE. MENU. Sherry, Bitters, Kümmel, Vermouth, Absinthe Haut Sauterne BUFFET SÉPARÉ. Canapés d'anchois (777) Radis (808) Olives (800) Céleri en branches (779) Saumon fumé (822) Caviar (778) Concombres (2661) Huîtres (803) Xérès POTAGES. Consommé Britannia (221) Bisque de crabes (198) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Attéreaux à la Piémontaise (840) Timbale mosaïque (976) Johannisberg POISSONS. Flétan à la Richmond (1169) Redsnapper à la Créquy (1233) Nuits RELEVÉS. Chapon à la Financière (1823) Selle de mouton à la Duchesse (1644) Léoville ENTRÉES. Cailles far3ies aux champignons (2124) Côtelettes de chevreuil à la Buridan (2170) Quenelles de volaille à la Drew (2326) Filets de tétras à la Tzarine (2073) Champagne Ruinart RôTS. Dinde truffée (2031) Bécasses sur canapés (2206) LÉGUMES Fonds d'artichauts à la Montglas (2679) Choux de Bruxelles à la Baronne (2703) Château Margaux ENTREMETS. Beignets de brioche à la crème Sabayon (3040) Mirlitons de poires Bienvenue (3054) Lunet Liqueurs Gelée à la Russe(3132) Bombe Romaine (3442) Dessert NOVEMBRE. 408 DîNER DE 16 COUVERTS - SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Sherry, Bitters, Vermouth Huîtres (803) Amontillado POTAGES. Consommé à la Noailles (237) Purée de chapon Jussienne (267) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Timbales à la Irving (969) Zeltinger POISSONS. Soles à la Rochelaise (1276) Pommes de terre, persillade (2774) RELEVÉ. Filet de bœuf à la Montebello (1454) Quartiers d'artichauts à la Villeroi (2688) St. Julien ENTRÉES. Côtelettes de mouton aux laitues braisées (1601) Macaroni Brignoli (2958) Bécassines à la Waleski (2155) Petits pois à la Parisienne (2745) Quenelles de foies gras fourrées à la financière (2331) Punch à la Stanley 3518 Batailly RôTS. Sarcelles (2068) Cailles (2131) Salade d'escarole (2671) ENTREMETS DE DOUCHEUR. Croûtes de poires à la Douglas (3028) Pouding de riz à l'Impérial (3494) Royal Charter Liqueurs Petits fours (3364) Fromages (3697) Fruits (3699) Café (3701) 409 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oxtail à la Soyer (332) Remove Pompano à la Potentini (1225) Cucumbers (2661) Entrées Round buttock top of beef, smothered (1334) Potatoes à la Parmentier (2811) Pullet à la Zingara (1983) Brussels sprouts, baroness (2703) Roast Hare backs with cream (2076) Salad Hot Entremets Celeriac fritters (3041) Parfait with almonds (3478) Dessert 410 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oysters, American style (333) Remove Striped bass with fine herbs (1112) Potato fritters (2788) Entrées Rump of beef à la Jardinière (1343) Noodles à la Lauer (2970) Duck paupiettes with risot (1928) Tomatoes à la Boquillon (2833) Roast Plovers (2119) Salad Hot Entremets Rice croquettes with orange raspberry sauce (3018) (Ice) Mousse of fruits with pineapple (3474) Dessert 411 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé with Lasagnettes (339) Side Dish Mousseline of woodcock (918) Fish Halibut à la Richmond (1169) Potato tartlets (2810) Remove Saddle of venison à la gastronome (2191) Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) Entrées Duckling à la Bourguignonne, fried (1932) Glazed endives (2740) Sweetbreads à la Marsilly (1559) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Stanley punch (3518) Roast Plovers (2119) Fondu with Piedmontese truffles (2954) Hot Entremets Apples with burnt almonds (3000) (Ice) Mokabelle (3505) Dessert 412 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of lettuce à la Evers (258) Side Dish Palmettes à la Périer (922) Fish Striped bass à la Whitney (1109) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Kernel of veal with half glaze (1522) Stuffed cucmbers (2734) Entrées Fillets of partridge à la Lucullus (2088) Smothered string beans (2828) Chicken sautéd à la Maryland (1894) Eggplants in cases à la Morton (2736) Venetian sherbet (3529) Roast Saddle of venison (2194) Salad Hot Entremets Peach pudding à la Cleveland (3102) (Ice) Montesquieu plombière (3480) 413 NOBEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of young rabbit, St. James (274) Remove Baked sole, Italian style (1279) Entrées Chicken fricassee (1861) Creamed macaroni with truffles (2962) Rack of venison roasted, Colbert sauce (2169) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Hot potato salad (2654) Hot Entremets Soufflé fritters, Médicis (3047) (Iced) Biscuits Diplomate(3435) Dessert 414 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Giblets à la Réglain (311) Remove Flounders à la Genlis (1154) Mashed potatoes (2798) Entrées Pullet à la Léondise (1974) Pumpkin fried in small sticks (2814) Noisettes of fillet of beef à la fleurette (1413) Lima beans, maitre-d'hôtel (2699) Roast Plovers (2119) Salad Hot Entremets Cream with apples (3014) Macaroon mousse (3477) Dessert 415 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé, Plumerey (238) Side Dish Mousseline, Waleski (916) Fish Canadian turbot à la d'Orléans (1304) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Loin of deer, cherry sauce (2168) Brussels sprouts sautéd (2704) Entrées Pullet à la Mornay (1977) Marrow squash with parmesan (2824) Cases of English snipe à la Carême (2228) Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) Pequerette sherbet (3527) Roast Mallard ducks (2059) Salad Hot Entremets Condé peaches (3081) (Iced) Timbale, Algerian style (3580) Dessert 416 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crawfish à la Humboldt (203) Side Dish Palmettes of quails, African style (931) Fish Soles à la Trouville (1277) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Sirloin of beef à la Bradford (1349) Eggplant, Duperret (2735) Entrées Paupiettes of young turkey, souvenir (2045) Green peas with braised lettuce (2746) Tournedos of venison, St. Hubert (2197) Smothered string beans (2828) Pargny punch (3514) Roast Woodcock(2206) Salad Hot Entremets Timbale Figaro (3123) (Iced) Plombière à la Rochambeau (3482) Dessert 417 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Mock turtle thickened (355) Remove Haddock, Ancient style (1164) Persillade potatoes (2774) Entrées Quarter of pork, Valencieunes (1797) Chopped lettuce (2751) Chicken fricassee à la Lucius (1865) Macaroni spaghetti, Laurence (2966) Roast Plovers (2119) Salad Hot Entremets Soufflé of chestnuts with vanilla (8118) Caramel ice cream (3447) Dessert 418 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Spaghetti with cream (348) Remove Striped bass, Hollandaise sauce (1110) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Braised chicken with noodles (1913) Carrots, Viennese style (2713) "Pains" of young rabbit (2549) Chestnuts with gravy (2727) Roast Brant ducks (2053) Salad Hot Entremets Light pudding with almonds (3112) Plombière d'Alençon (3483) Dessert 419 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Oysters (803) Soup Clear terrapin (350) Side Dish Timbales à la Marly (973) Fish Turban of smelts (2392) Potato croquettes {2782) Remove Baron of yearling lamb à la de Rivas (1661) Okra with barley croustades (2763) Entrées Slices of kernel of venison à la Hussarde (2181) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Squab breasts à la Duxelle, stuffed (2019) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Montmorency punch (3512) Roast Partridge à la Soyer (2097) Salad Hot Entremets Crust of pears, Douglas (3028) Madrillian ice cream (3562) Dessert 420 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. Soup Bisque of shrimps, Bretonne (213) Side Dish Brissotines of game, Lyonnese (850) Fish Sole fillets, Venetian style (1278) Broiled potatotes (2776) Remove Turkey with cèpes (2030) Tagliarelli in croustade (2986) Entrées Young rabbit à la Celtoise (2137) Sautéd string beans (2829) Sweetbreads, St. Cloud (1566) Macédoine à la Montigny (2755) Mephisto sherbet (3524) Roast Ptarmigan (2072) Salad Hot Entremets Biscuits Frascati (3004) (Ice) Pudding Fleury (3498) Dessert 421 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of English snipes à la Théo (271) Remove Spotted fish, Queen sauce (1285) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Leg of lamb à la Guyane (1708) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Duck with sauerkraut (1925) Beetroot fritters (2702) Roast Young rabbits larded and roasted (2142) Salad Hot Entremets Noodle crescents with cherries (3015) (Ices) Mushrooms (3568) Dessert 422 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of peas with mint (261) Remove Stuffed fillets of sole (1281) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrées Cutlets of lamb à la Clémence (1673) Artichoke bottoms, Soubise (2681) Jugged hare (2075) Macaroni purée of game (2963) Roast Mongrel ducks, stuffed (1929) Salad Hot Entremets Rice pudding, fruit sauce (3106) (Ices) Tortoni cups (3584) Dessert 423 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 12 to 16 PERSONS MENU. Soup Bisque of shrimps à la Veragua (211) Side Dish Cromesquis of beef palate (867) Fish Canadian turbot à la Houston (1305) Broiled potatoes (2776) Remove Saddle of venison, Tyrolese style (2189) Stuffed green peppers (2768) Entrées Duck with crèpes (1922) Tomatoes Trévise (2836) Sweetbreads au Chancelier (1569) String beans sautéd (2829) Soufflé of partridges à la Huggins (2364) Roman punch (3515) Roast Capon (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Chestnut croquettes (3017) (Ices) The marvelous (3563) Dessert 424 NOVEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of cardoons, Livingston (252) Side Dish Cassolettes à la Lusigny (860) Fish Redsnapper, Mobile (1235) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Tenderloin of beef à la Changy (1447) Squash with parmesan (2824) Entrées Fricasseed turkey (2038) Sautéd Brussels sprouts (2704) Quails à la Mirepoix (2125) Celery béchamel with croûtons (2720) Paradise sherbet (2525) Roast Canvasback ducks garnished with hominy (2055) Salad Hot Entremets Apples, Baron de Brisse (2993) (Ices) Nest with eggs (3594) Dessert DÉCEMBRE. 425 DîNER DE 16 COUVERTS -SERVICE À LA FRANçAISE. MENU. Premier Service. POTAGES. Consommé aux nids d'hirondelles (244) Jarrets de veau à la Briand (319) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Croquettes de crabes Parmentier (879) Timbales Princesse (980) RELEVÉS. Flétan à la Reynal (1171) Filet de bœuf à la Mélinet (1452) ENTRÉES. Épigrammes de levrauts à la Polignac (2078) Ailes de poulet à la Béranger (1834) Pâté chaud à la McAllister (2313) Filets de pigeons aux olives (1970) Ris de veau aux quenelles (1578) Soufflé de gibier à la Lucie (2562) Deuxième Service. Punch Élisabeth (3507) RôTS. Canvasback (Canards sauvages) (2055) Perdreaux (2102) ENTREMETS. Fonds d'artichauts à la Villars (2682) Pointes d'asperges Miranda (2696) Pouding Tyrolienne (3111) Gelée aux ananas Californienne (3178) Brouette garnie de fleurs sur socies (2838) Panier de cerises (3630) Gâteau Reine (3256) Baba siropé (3227) Dessert DÉCEMBRE. 426 DîNER DE 20 COUVERTS - SERVICE À LA RUSSE. MENU. Huîtres (808) POTAGES. Consommé Impératrice (231) Bisque de lucines à la Hendrick (197) HORS-D'ŒUVRE Crétes de coq farcies Duxelle (863) Bouchées à la purée de gibier (936) RELEVÉS. Aiguillettes de bass noir aux crabes d'huitres (1096) Selle d'anitlope à la chasseresse (2085) ENTRÉES. Bordure de poulet à la Toulouse (2210) Vol-au-vent à l'Ancienne (2398) Ris de veau au chancelier (1569) Timbale de truffes à la Périgord (2846) RôTS. Ruddy duck (2066) Cailles au cresson (2131) LÉGUMES. Tomates farcies aux champignons frais (2842) Petits pois Parisienne (2745) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Pêches Richelien (3083) Paniers d'oranges à la gelée (3130) Flamri de semoule (3168) Bavarois aux marrons (3136) GLACES. Poules avec Poussins (3594) Compotes (3686) Bonbons (3642) Fresh fruits (3699) Devises (3653) Petits fours (3364) Amandes Salées (3696) Dessert DÉCEMBRE. 427 DîNER DE 24 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'ANGLAISE. MENU. POTAGES. Potage de bécasses (360) Crème de légumes à la Banville (266) POISSON. Turbot Anglais sauce aux câpres (1307) Pommes de terre Viennoise(2812) GROSSE PIèCE. Filet de bœuf à la d'Orléans (1450) Haricots verts étuvés (2828) ENTRÉES. Ailes de poulet à la Primatice (1851) Ris de veau Maltaise (1558) Quenelles de poulet à la Bretonne (2328) Casserole de ris garnie de poulet Palestine (2239) RôT. Dindon farci aux marrons (2041) FROID. Terrine de foies de canards à l'Aquitaine (2596) Salade d'escarole (2671) RELEVÉS. Beignets soufflés Médicis (3047) Compiègue au Sabayon (3009) ENTREMETS. Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Asperges à la Hollandaise (2692) Pain de bananes Havanaise (3195) Couronne à la Camper(3156) Gelée aux violettes (3185) Éclairs au chocolat (3303) BUFFET. Aloyau à la Norwood (1348) Selle de mouton rôti à la broche (1648) Pouding Yorkshire (770) Pommes rôties (2771) Tarte aux pommes (3199) Consommé aux ravioles et aux perles (359) DÉCEMBRE. 428 DîNER DE 18 COUVERTS - SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Huitres (803) POTAGES. Consommé à la Berry (220) Bisque d'écrevisses à la Batelière (202) HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Bouchées Andalouse (934) POISSONS. Bass rayé à la Whitney (1109) Blanchaille à la Greenwich (1310) RELEVÉ. Filets de bœuf à la Condé (1448) Céleri à l'Espagnole (2721) ENTRÉES. Filets de poulet à la Sadi-Carnot (1853) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Côtelettes de chevreuil Cauchoise (2171) Épinards Béchamel (2820) Soufflés de foies gras aux truffes (2361) Punch Tournesol (3517) RôT. Bécasses (2206) Salade de laitues (2672) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS Baquet de gaufres à la crème(3128) Gàteau moka (3249) Macaronade (3188) Palais de dames à la Vanille (3353) PIèCES MONTÉES. Fruits frais (3699) Compotes (3686) Café (3701) 429 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Westmoreland (357) Remove Flounders, Joinville (1155) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Shoulder of lamb à la Garnier (1750) Cucumbers breaded, English style (2732) Fillets of Guinea fowl with sauerkraut (1958) Roast English snipe (2159) Salad Hot Entremets Meringued pancakes, Rossini(3073) (Ice) Montélimar with hazel-nut cream (3566) Dessert 430 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Lentils, Chantilly (273) Remove Soles à la Colbert (1271) Cucumbers (2661) Entrées Rack of pork on the spit (1799) Stuffed turnip cabbage (2709) Chicken fricassee à la Waleski (1866) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Fritters souffléd, Médicis (3047) Caramel ice cream (3447) Dessert 431 DECEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Purée of young rabbit, St. James (274) Side Dish Rissoles of sweetbreads (954) Fish Spotted fish, Calcutta (1287) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Rack of mutton with small roots (1643) Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) Entrées Chicken with oyster sauce (1882) Green peas, French style (2743) Salmis of woodcock à la Beaumont (2207) Minced cèpes in croustades (2725) Venetian sherbet (3529) Roast Turkey stuffed, American style (2028) Hot Entremets Apples with burnt almonds (3000) (Ices) Léona (3558) Dessert. 432 DECEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chicken gumbo (299) Side Dish Attéreaux of oysters (839) Fish Streaked turban of flukes (2393) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Braised turkey à la financière (2026) Stuffed tomatoes with fresh mushrooms (2842) Entrées Sweetbreads à la Marsilly (1559) Celeriac, Mirabeau (2722) Salmis of quails à la Morisini (2132) Mushrooms stuffed in cases (2762) Siberian punch (3516) Roast Canvasback ducks garnished with hominy (2055) Hot Entremets Peach pudding à la Cleveland (3102) Burnt almond angelica ice cream (3455) 433 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bouillabaisse (289) Remove Boudins of salmon with shrimps (2221) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Entrées Stuffed hare à la châtelaine (2074) Tomatoes, Frossart (2834) Chicken sautéd à la Diva (1886) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Crusts with fruit, Mirabeau (3025) (Ice) Pudding Constance (3490) Dessert 434 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Gnocquis à la Pagioli (312) Remove Flounders à la Dieppoise (1153) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrées Stuffed chicken with tomato Condé sauce (1883) Ravioles, Bellini (2976) Mutton cutlets à la Maréchale (1595) String beans sautéd with butter (2829) Roast Pheasants (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Fritters, Montagnard (3037) (Ice) Mousse à la Siraudin (3472) Dessert 435 DECEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of shrimps, Melville (212) Side Dish Croquettes of grouse, Soubise (886) Fish Weakfish à la Brighton (1308) Hollandaise potatoes (2790) Remove Ribs of beef à la Bristed (1329) Fried eggplant (2739) Entrées Chicken breasts à la Bodisco (1835) Carrots, Viennese style (2713) Young rabbit, hunter's style (2140) Tomatoes, Trévise (2836) Sunflower punch (3517) Roast Reedbirds (2152) Salad Hot Entremets Meringued peaches (3082) (Ice) Parfait with coffee (3479) Dessert 436 DECEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé, Bariatenski (219) Side Dish Bondons of woodcock à la Diane (845) Fish Striped bass with white wine (1113) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Pullet with ravioles (1995) String beans sautéd (2829) Entrées Noisettes of tenderloin of beef à la Maire (1415) Glazed cucumbers (2733) Vol-au-vent of frogs' legs, Soubise (2401) Parfait amour sherbet (3526) Roast Ruddy ducks (2066) Salad Hot Entremets Pudding à la Bradley (3093) (Ice) Italian mousse (3475) Dessert 437 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oysters à la Cruyst (334) Remove Turbot à la Mercier (1306) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrées Pullet with croustades à la Financière (1993) Artichoke bottoms with marrow (2687) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef à la Fleurette (1413) Green peas, French style (2743) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Salad Hot Entremets Rice border with bananas (3005) (Ices) Fiori di latte à la Orlandini (3468) Dessert 438 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Frogs, garnished with timbales (309) Remove Flounders, Madeleine (1157) Viennese potatoes (2812) Entrées Leg of mutton à la Bourgeoise (1624) Mushrooms à la Reynal (2756) Chicken broiled à la Delisle (1828) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Brioche fritters with cream sabayon (3040) (Ice) Serano pudding (3498) Dessert 439 DECEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Calf's tail à la Rundell (294) Side Dish Palmettes à la Périer (922) Fish Sole à la Lutèce (1272) Duchess potatoes (2785) Remove Saddle of mutton with glazed roots (1649) Macaroni Brignoli (2958) Entrées Breaded tenderloin of pork, celery purée (1818) Green peas, English style (2742) Quails stuffed with mushrooms (2134) Parisian salad (2644) Rebecca sherbet (3528) Roast Plovers (2119) Salad Hot Entremets Humboldt pudding (3100) (Ices) Potatoes (3575) Dessert 440 DECEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Hungarian consommé (235) Side Dish Ham mousselines, Robertson (915) Fish Striped bass, shrimp sauce (1111) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Saddle of venison, hunter's style (2185) Jerusalem artichokes à la Salamander (2749) Entrées Stuffed tame duck à la Britannia (1917) Trévise tomatoes (2836) Noisettes of beef, mushroom purée (1420) Russian salad (2645) Champagne punch (3504) Roast Capon (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Rice pudding, fruit sauce (3106) (Ice) Cherry plombière (3485) Dessert 441 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Ravioles with Nizam pearls (359) Remove Haddock, Holland style (1165) Entrées Loin of pork à la Réglain (1796) Cucumbers breaded, English style (2732) Fillets of young rabbit à la Bienvenue, garnished with croquettes (2143) String beans à la Pettit (2827) Roast Squabs in earthenware saucepan (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Peaches à la Condé (3081) (Ice) Biscuit glacé, Diplomate (3435) Dessert 442 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Crabs à la Loubat (303) Remove Black bass with sweet peppers (1097) Viennese potatoes (2812) Entrées Mutton cutlets à la Macédoine (1594) Baked eggplant(2738) Mallard duck with celery, half-glaze(2060) Braised pullet with jelly (2570) Roast Partridges with water-cresses (2102) Salad Hot Entremets Custard cream with apples (3014) (Ice) Plombière d'Alençon (3483) Dessert 443 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé à la Dubarry (229) Side Dish Attéreaux of turkey (842) Fish Canadian turbot à la d'Orléans (1304) Potatoes persillade (2774) Remove Mutton with Gastronome potatoes (1642) Asparagus, Countess (2693) Entrées Turkey with cèpes (2030) Risot with Piedmontese truffles (2981) Young hare, Castiglione (2077) Teltow turnips with chestnuts (2849) Champagne punch (3504) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Salad Hot Entremets Peaches à la Colbert (3080) (Ice) Bomb with prunelle (3443) Dessert 444 DECEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consommé, Andalouse (216) Side Dish Timbales, Soubise (986) Fish Striped bass with fine herbs (1112) Potato tartlets (2810) Remove Redhead duck, Baréda (2062) Artichoke bottoms, Mornay(2686) Entrées Veal cutlets, Pogarski (2273) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Fillets of young rabbit à la Lavoisier (2144) Brussels sprouts à la Baroness (2703) Paradise sherbet (3525) Roast Pullets (1996) Salad Hot Entremets Chestnut croquettes (3017) (Ice) Fiori di latte, Orlandini (3468) JANUARY. 445 DANCING PARTY OF 100 PERSONS - SERVED FRENCH STYLE. REFRESHMENTS AND SUPPER. BILL OF FARE. First Service, 11 o'clock. Genoeses with cream meringued (3308) Condé cakes (3297) Varied fruit tartlets (3337) Africans (3364) Macaroons (3379) Refreshments Lemonade, Orgeat and Grenadine syrup. Second Service, 12 o'clock. Assorted ice creams (3538) Rolled wafers with Curaçoa cream (3224) Iced biscuits with vanilla (3438) Fancy cakes (3364) Tutti frutti biscuit (3586) Small cream biscuits (3137) Hot wine (3715) Champagne punch (3714) Third Service, 1 o'clock. SUPPER (HOT). Consommé (189) Chicken croquettes exquisite (877) Victoria patties (942) Coffee and milk (3701) Venetian timbales (989) Escalops of fat livers à la Villeneuve (2279) COLD. Roast capon and water cress (1826) Galantine of pigeons (2496) Terrine of snipe (2603) Tenderloin of beef with macédoine croustades (2440) Small "pain" of capon with tarragon (2542) Shrimp salad (2647) Sandwiches of different meats (815) Small rolls with lobster (809) SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. Thin chocolate wafers (3362) Fruit jellies (3187) Fresh fruits (3699) Varied ice cream (3538) Assorted fancy cakes (3364) Champagne. FÉVRIER. 446 SOUPER DE 30 COUVERTS - SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Huîtres (803) Consommé en tasses (189) Radis (808) Olives (800) Céleri en branches (779) Homard à la Hervey (1034) Croquettes de chapon royale (876) Filet de bœuf à la Milanaise (1453) Petits pois à l'Anglaise (2742) Ailes de poulet à la Lucullus (1846) Fonds d'artichauts à la Soubise (2681) Terrapène à la Crisfield (1084) Mousseline de foies gras à la Dana (2535) Pigeonneaux rôtis à la casserole (2018) Célestine de poularde à la Talleyrand (2450) Salade d'écrevisses à la Maintenon (2629) Truffes en serviette (2843) Flamri à la crème (3167) Gelée Tunisienne rubanée (3184) Gelée au marasquin (3186) Pouding glacé à la Duchesse (3492) Ceylan au café (3545) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Café (3701) MARS. 447 SOUPER DE 30 COUVERTS -SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Graves Huîres (803) Lafaurie Canapés d'écrevisses (777) Salade d'anchois (772) Beurre (775) Radis (808) Olives (800) Consommé en tasses (189) Purée de volaille à la Reine (270) Niersteiner Croquettes de poulet à la Hongroise (878) Côtelettes d'agneau à la Maison d'Or (1679) Pigeonneaux à la Flourens (2009) Galantine de faisan découpée (2495) Pâté de foies gras découpé (2563) Chambertin Poularde rôtie truffée (1992) Salade Impériale (2634) Gelée au marasquin (3186) Pommery Charlotte Bengalienne (3142) Glace mousse aux marrons (3477) Malaga Petites glaces moulées variées (3431) Café glacé (3609) Fruits(3699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Violettes pralinées (3659) Dessert Champagne glacé (3710) APRIL. 448 SIDEBOARD SUPPER FOR 300 PERSONS - RUSSIAN SERVICE. BILL OF FARE. Consommé (189) Cream of rice Crémieux (249) Truffled ham à la Florian (2523) Chaudfroid of fillets of redhead duck (2460) Decorated galantines of eels (2488) Foies gras in border (2483) Cold chicken fricassee (2467) Shrimp salad (2647) Caviar (778) Lemons and oranges (793) Small fancy rolls with lobster (809) Assorted canapés (777) Assorted sandwiches (811) ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. 2 Vases of drawn sugar with flowers (3637) Savoy biscuit (3231) Baba syruped (3227) Cream with cherries (3154) Macédoine champagne jelly (3179) Bavarois with meringues (3133) High stands of assorted fancy cakes (3364) Plates filled with bonbons (3642) Basket of fresh fruits (3699) Preserves (3684) SUPPER, HOT AND COLD FOR 200 PERSONS. On twenty tables, ten persons to each. Consommé (189) Purée of chicken Dufferin (269) Darne of salmon à la Duperré (1240) Crab salad (2628) Chicken fillets au suprême (1858) Squabs à la Flourens (2009) Artichoke bottoms à la Villars (2682) Green peas, French style (2743) Roast pheasant (2107) Roast turkey with water-cress (2028) Fruit jelly with kirsch (3187) Bengalian Charlotte (3142) Peaches à la Louvoisienne (3198) SIDEBOARD FOR TEA, REFRESHMENTS AND ICES. Tea (3704) Coffee (3701) Punch (3501) Chocolate (3700) Strawberry mousse(3474) Small ices (3431) American shrebet (3521) Lemonade (3713) Tea Cakes (3339) MAI. SOUPER ASSIS DE 35 COUVERTS - SERVICE À L'AMÉRICAINE. MENU. Canapés de sardines (777) Anchois (772) Céleri en branches (779) Radis (808) Lucines orangées (803) Consommé de volaille en tasses (190) Homard à la Hervey (1034) Croquettes de palais de bœuf (875) Petits pois à l'Anglaise(2742) Côtelettes d'agneau à la Talma (1687) Haricots verts à la Pettit (2827) Ailes de poulet à la Lorenzo (1845) Tomates farcies Provençale (2835) Chapon rôti (1826) Salade de pommes de terre en bordure aux truffes (2655) Gelée au marasquin (3186) Charlotte Russe (3145) Glace bombe à la Trobriand (3440) Glaces moulées variées (3431) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Café (3701) JUIN. 450 SOUPER ASSIS 40 COUVERTS. MENU. Haut Sauterne Lucines orangées (803) Caviar (778) Salade d'anchois (772) Olives (800) Sardines (831) Consommé (189) Truites de ruisseau à la Carême (2611) Salade de concombres (2661) Champagne Perrier-Jouit Attéreaux de ris de veau à la moderne (841) Filets de volaille à la Cussy (1838) Petits pois à l'Anglaise(2742) Quenelles de faisans frites (2334) Chambertin Petits pains de volaille à l'écarlate (2543) Dôme de homard garni de petites caisses (2481) Canetons rôtis (1921) Salade de truffes à la Gambetta (2667) Gelée macédoine au champagne (3179) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) Glaces Délicieux aux noisettes (3592) Le casque orné de sucre filé (3598) Fruits cristallisés (3659) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Fruits frais (3699) Café (3701) JULY. 451 AMBIGU PICNIC - 60 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Herring salad with potatoes (2633) Beef sandwiches à la Barlow (812) Chicken sandwiches (813) Okra and sweet pepper salad (2651) Small sturgeon Livonienne style (2594) Tenderloin of beef with vegetables, mayonnaise (2441) Smoked red beef tongue (2608) Pigeon galantines (2496) Veal and ham pie (2568) Duckling with Spanish olives (2482) Leg of mutton à la Garrison (2530) Broiled chicken (1831) Lobster salad, American style (2638) Bagration salad (2622) Apricot flawn (3170) Punch cake with rum (3255) Charlotte Russe (3145) Bavarois with meringues (3133) Raspberries and cream (3699) Ice Cream. Vanilla (3458) Strawberry ice water (3607) Chocolate (3449) White coffee (3460) Iced biscuit with vanilla (3438) Fruits (3699) Fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) Dessert An illustration of a Chart with a Suggested Distribution of Food for a Garden Party of 100 Persons. SEPTEMBER. 452 AMBIGU - 200 PERSONS. Radishes (808) Celery (779) Butter (775) Gherkins (785) Olives (800) Red cabbage, marinated, English style (776) Caviar (778) Chow-chow (791) Salted almonds (3696) Hard-boiled eggs on canapés (777) Marinated cauliflower (776) Anchovy salad (772) Potato salad with herring (2653) Slices of salmon with jelly (2578) Roasted peacock adorned with its plumage(2552) Galantine of suckling pig(2498) Kernel of veal with mayonnaise tomatoed sauce (2527) Beef à la mode (2433) Capon legs with truffles (1826) Cold snipe pie (2567) Lobster with mayonnaise (2534) Small "pain" of chicken à laFreyeinet (2544) Galantine of gosling, melon shaped (2489) Pork liver terrine (2551) Japanese salad (2636) Barlow sandwiches (812) Rillettes (809) Slices of bread and butter (820) Sandwiches with anchovies (816) French roll sandwiches, American style (816) Assorted ice cream (3538) Fancy cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Claret punch (3714) Lemonade (3713) Iced coffee (3609) Iced chocolate(3608) OCTOBER. 453 SUPPER FOR 300 PERSONS - ENGLISH SERVICE. BILL OF FARE. LARGE PIECES. Chicken pie (2554) Ribs of beef à la bourgeoise (2431) Ham glazed with sugar (2522) Turkey in daube (2616) ENTRÉES. Ballotines of quails à la Tivolier (2426) Decorated darne of salmon (2576) Cutlets of pheasant in chaudfroid (2477) Smoked red beef tongues (2608) Lamb cutlets, Imperial (2471) Galantine of pullet à la Mozart (2497) Lobster salad, American style (2638) Chicken mayonnaise(2625) RESERVE. Chickens(2469) and tongues (2608) Terrine of pork liver (2602) PASTRY PIECES. Fleury cake (3237) Nougatine cake (3251) Savoy biscuit (3231) Iced baba (3227) SWEET DISHES OF SMALL PASTRIES AND ICES. Pear tartlets (3337) Lozenges (3349) Espagnolettes (3346) Apricot nougat (3319) Nantes cakes (3352) Small fancy ices (3538) Japanese cakes (3347) Biscuits glacés (3438) "Pain" of bananas, Havanese (3195) Malakoff cream (3150) Surprise Bavarois (3132) Jelly with fruit and kirsch (3187) HOT SERVICE ON SIDEBOARD. Bisque of clams à la Hendrick (197) Cream of barley, Vienna style (249) Nizam pearls (316) Roast pullets (1996) NOVEMBRE. 454 SOUPER BUFFET ET ASSIS DE 400 PERSONNES. MENU BUFFET. CHAUD. Consommé de gibier (192) Mousseline Isabelle (912) Huîtres à la Hollandaise (1066) Huîtres frites à la Orly (1060) Bouchées à la Victoria (942) Quenelles de tétras à la Londonderry (2332) Pétoncles à la Brestoise (1074) Queues de homard à la Stanley (1042) Terrapène à la Baltimore (1083) Café(3701) Thé(3704) FROID. Saumon de l'Orégon à la Vénitienne (2587) Filet de bœuf aux croustades macédoine (2440) Galantine de dinde à la Berger (2499) Langue de bœuf écarlate en arcade (2607) Bécasses à la Valère (2619) Aspic de foies gras (2411) Mousseline de kingfish à laBrière (2536) Poulet rôti garni de gelée (2469) Mayonnaise de poulet (2625) Salade de homard à l'Américaine (2638) Sandwiches de gibier (814) Rillettes (809) Canapés (777) ENTREMETS SUCRÉS ET DESSERT. Pouding Valois (3211) Gelée aux framboises (3183) Gâteau Vacherin à la crème (3264) Savarin à la Valence (3259) GLACES VARIÉES. Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Champagne glacé (3710) Le souper est dressé en buffet, ensuite servi sur des petites tables de cinq à dix couverts, on découpe le froid que l'on dresse sur des petits plats que l'on place sur chacune des tables ainsi que le hors d'œuvre froid. Avant de servir l'entremet sucré et le dessert on remplace le froid et le hors d'œuvre par les gelées poudings, gâteax, fruits, etc. Le chaud est au choix des convives. DECEMBRE. 455 SOUPER BUFFET ET ASSIS POUR 100 COUVERTS. MENU BUFFET. CHAUD. Consommé de volaille (190) Crème d'orge à la Viennoise (249) Huîtres fricassées à la poulette (1067) Timbales à la Soubise (986) Coquilles de saumon (2346) Bouchées Turbigo (941) Terrapène à la Maryland (1085) Canvasbacks (canards sauvages) (2055) Café(3701) Thé (3704) FROID. Chaudfroid de Courlis (2452) Terrine de lière (2598) Langue de bœuf écarlate à la gelée (2609) Aspics de filets mignons de perdreaux (2416) Côtelettes de noix d'agneau mayonnaise (2474) Filets de poulet à la Gallier (2466) Salade de céleri mayonnaise (2660) Salade de homard à l'Américaine (2638) Sandwichs variées (815) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS ET DESSERT. Gelée au rhum (3186) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) Gâteau noisettes (3241) Charlotte Bengalienne (3142) Bombe panachée au café blanc et noir (3444) Soufflé glacé à la Favart (3534) Tutti frutti (2586) Biscuit glacé (3438) Toronchino Procope (3583) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Le froid est découpé et servi sur table avant de servir le Souper. Le Souper assis est servi sur des tables de 5 à 10 Couverts dans l'ordre suivant. Consommé devolaille Crème d'orge à la Viennoise Timbales à laSoubise Bouchées Turbigo Huîtres fricassées à la poulette Coquilles de saumon Côtelettes de noix d'agneaumayonnaise Filets de poulet à la Gallier Terrapène à la Maryland Chaufroid de Courlis Terrine de lière Langue de bœuf écarlate à la gelée Aspics de filets mignons de perdreaux Salade de homard à l'AméricaineSandwichs variées Canvasbacks (canards sauvages) Salade de céleri mayonnaise Gelée au rhum Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée Gâteau noisettes Charlotte Bengalienne Bombe panachée au café blanc et noir Soufflé glacé à la Favart Tutti frutti Biscuit glacé Toronchino Procope Fruits Petits fours Bonbons Devises SUPPER. JANUARY. 456 Oysters on the half shell (803) Crawfish marinière (1009) Breasts of woodcock à la Houston (2201) Deviled ribs of beef (1331) Aspic of breast of quail (2419) (Ice) Croquettes macédoine (3559) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert JANUARY. 457 Oysters on the half shell (803) Lobster on skewers, Colbert (2222) Game croquettes à la Dauphine (885) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast redhead ducks (2063) Celery mayonnaise salad (2660) Ice cream (3458) Dessert JANUARY. 458 Oysters on the half shell (803) Woodcock croquettes with truffles (892) Mutton kidneys on skewers, deviled (1620) Lobster tails in their shells (2533) (Ice) Soufflés Palmyra (3535) Dessert JANUARY. 459 Oysters (803) Crusts with Chester cheese (946) Crawfish with butter (1011) Lamb sweetbreads, Sévigné (1762) Roast squabs(2018) (Ice) Nesselrode pudding with candied chestnuts (3495) Dessert FEBRUARY. 460 Oysters (803) Consommé (189) Maréchale mousseline (913) Escalops of fat livers à la Villeneuve (2279) Green peas, English style (2742) Doe birds (2051) (Ice) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) Dessert FEBRUARY. 461 Oysters in cases à la Lorenzo (2232) Fresh mushroom patties (937) Striped bass à la Manhattan (2428) Chicken soufflé à la Delsart(2360) Roast plover (2119) Salad Charlotte Russe (3145) FEBRUARY. 462 Oysters in their natural shells with fried bread (2353) Lobster, American style (1024) Chicken salad (2626) Roasted English snipe (2159) (Ice) Plombière à la Havanaise (3484) Dessert FEBRUARY. 463 Oysters on crusts (1062) Turkey croquettes (894) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef, plain (1410) Sarah potatoes (2802) Aspic of foies-gras (2411) Asparagus salad (2621) Montélimar with hazel-nut ice cream (3566) SUPPER. MARCH. 464 Cream of barley, Vienna style (249) Fried stuffed oysters (1070) Crépine of reedbirds (2247) Lobster mayonnaise, Printanière (796) Roast ptarmigan with gravy (2072) (Ice) Bomb with kirsch (3443) Dessert MARCH. 465 Welsh rarebit (946) Lamb kidneys on skewers (1703) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Roast squabs (2018) Strawberry water ice (3607) Sponge cake (3260) Dessert MARCH. 466 Clear bouillon (187) Squab cutlets à la de Luynes (2266) Green peas, English style (2742) Broiled chicken (1831) Norwegian salad (2641) (Ice) Andalusian cream (3446) Dessert MARCH. 467 Consommé (189) Chicken croquettes, Exquisite (877) Small green peas, Parisian style (2745) Lobster à la Newberg (1037) Pheasant adorned with its own plumage (2107) (Ice) Fiori di latte à la Bellini (3467) Dessert APRIL. 468 Oysters and lemons (803) Trout marinated in wine (829) Minions of tenderloin of beef à la Baillard (1400) English partridges (2102) Celery salad (2660) (Ice) Diplomate biscuit (3435) Dessert APRIL. 469 Toast with oil and cheese (992) Croquettes of frogs (884) Pullet crepine (2243) Oyster salad (2642) Roast squabs (2018) (Ice) Plombière à la Rochambeau (3482) Dessert APRIL. 470 Oysters (803) Crawfish, Maison d'Or (1010) Sweetbread in cases à la Grammont (2235) Quartered artichokes (2688) Roast chicken with jelly and beef tongue (2469) Strawberry mousse ice cream (3474) Dessert APRIL. 471 Bouillon (187) Toast à la Waddington (862) Shells of oysters à la Villa (2340) Breasts of chicken à la Béranger (1834) Potato shavings (2807) English snipe (2159) Mignon salad (2620) (Ice) Turban with strawberries (3100) MAY. 472 Clams (803) Yorkshire rarebit (946) Lobster à la Bounnefoy (1026) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Broiled chicken (1831) (Ice) Romanoff pudding (3497) Dessert MAY. 473 Consommé (189) Crusts of clams à la Schenk (903) Ham mousseline à la Belmont (911) Ptarmigans, currant jelly (2072) Romaine salad (2675) (Ice) Tutti frutti (3586) Dessert MAY. 474 Clams (803) Toast with sardines (992) Venetian timbales (989) Lamb cutlets with mayonnaise (2474) Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2013) (Ice) Bomb with maraschino (3443) Dessert MAY. 475 Consommé (189) Soft clams à la poulette (995) Lamb cutlets, Signora (1686) Chicken salad with vegetables (2627) Broiled duckling (1938) Salad (Ice) Parfait with coffee (3479) Dessert JUNE. 476 Clams (803) Brissotins of chicken supreme (849) Lobsters à la Newberg (1037) Border of forcemeat à la Duchess (2211) Roast squabs(2018) Ice cream parfait nougat (3478) Salad Dessert JUNE Clams (803) Rissoles of lamb (952) Small green peas, Parisian style (2745) Duckling à la Rouennaise (1937) Broiled chicken (1831) Lettuce salad (2672) (Ice) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) Dessert JULY. 478 Clams (803) Lobster mayonnaise Printanière (795) Brissotins of chicken au suprême (849) Green peas, French style (2748) Roast squabs (2018) Salad (Ice) Bomb streaked with white and black coffee (3444) Dessert JULY. 479 Clams (803) Timbales Calaisienne (962) Sweetbread cutlets à la Talleyrand (2272) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast sand-snipe with water-cress (2161) (Ice) Vanilla mousse (3458) Dessert SUPPER. AUGUST. 480 Clams (803) Croustades Parmentier (896) Chicken quenelles with consommé (2329) Sautéd mushrooms (2760) Chaudfroid of lamb cutlets (2475) Broiled reedbirds (2151) Salad Virgin ice cream with orange-flower water (3459) Dessert AUGUST. 481 Clams (803) Quenelles of spring turkey (2336) Green peas, English style (2742) Cases of thrush with jelly (2449) Broiled wild squabs (2112) Tomato salad (2666) (Ice) Roman bomb (3442) Dessert SEPTEMBER. 482 Oysters (803) Fish quenelles, Montglas (2330) Tenderloin of beef with olives (1428) Artichoke bottoms à la Soubise (2681) Roast woodcock (2206) Celery salad (2660) (Ice) Mousse with peaches (3474) Dessert SEPTEMBER. 483 Oysters (803) Anchovy fritters (835) Partridge fillets, Giralda (2086) Roast duckling with green mayonnaise and fine herbs (1938) Aspics of foies gras (2412) Salad (Ice) Fiori di latte à la Bellini (3467) Dessert OCTOBER. 484 Consommé (189) Scallops on toast, baked (1078) Chicken fillets à la Genin (1843) Green peas, English style (2742) Broiled plover (2118) Salad (Ice) Biscuit glacés (3438) OCTOBER. 485 Oysters (803) Bressoles of fat liver (848) Minions of tenderloin of beef à la Dumas (1402) Salad of crawfish with jelly (2630) Roasted woodcock (2206) (Ice) Duchess pudding (3492) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert OCTOBER. 486 Oysters (803) Deviled stuffed lobster à la Carin (1043) Toasted bread with bacon (827) Chicken breasts, Empress style (1841) Broiled snipe (2157) Cucumber salad (2661) (Ice) Marvelous (3563) Dessert OCTOBER. 487 Consommé (189) Ham mousseline Virginienne (911) Small aspics of foies gras (2412) Roasted ruddy duck (2066) Lettuce salad (2672) (Ice) Mokabelle (3565) Dessert SUPPER. NOVEMBER. 488 Oysters (803) Partridge quenelles à la Stuart (2333) Artichoke bottoms à la Mornay (2680) Terrapin à la Trenton (1090a) Roast grouse (2072) Cos-lettuce salad (2675) (Ice) Mousse with macaroons (3477) Dessert NOVEMBER. 489 Oysters (803) Small cases with fat livers (2229) Lamb cutlets à la Turenne (1688) Shells of capon with jelly (2590) Broiled woodcock (2204) Salad Parfait with coffee (3479) Dessert NOVEMBER. 490 Oysters (803) Toast, Florentine (991) Cromesquis of crabs, Rumpford (869) Terrapin, Epicurean style (1090b) Small aspics of foies gras (2412) Roast plover (2119) Celery salad (2660) (Ice) Toronchino Procope (3583) NOVEMBER. 491 Oysters (803) Consommé (189) Palmettes of snipe à la Osborn (932) St. Jacques shells, Parisian style (1079) Toasted bread with chicken (827) Roast quails (2131) Escarole salad (2671) (Ice) Basket of oranges (3570) DECEMBER. 492 Oysters (803) Consommé (189) Capon croquettes à la Royale (876) Peas English style (2742) Terrapin à la Maryland (1085) Roast reedbirds with water-cress (2252) Ice cream with chestnuts (3465) Dessert DECEMBER. 493 Consommé (189) Brochettes of oysters with truffles (1058) Sweetbreads à la Mirabeau (2595) Fat livers, Toulousaine (2287) Fried egg-plant (2739) Roasted grouse (2072) Salad (Ice) Biscuit with vanilla, melon shape (3438) Dessert DECEMBER. 494 Welsh rarebit à la Cutting (946) Lobster à la Bordelaise (1026) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef Berthier (1411) Terrapin à la Newberg (1086) Roast squabs (2018) Water-cress salad (2676) (Ice) Harlequin (3554) Dessert DECEMBER. 495 Consommé (189) Oysters on toast (1062) Ham mousseline à la Costa (911) Terrapin à la Crisfield (1084) Roast woodcock (2206) Okra and sweet pepper salad (2651) (Ice) Potatoes (3575) Dessert JANVIER. 496 BUFFET POUR 300 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consommé de gibier (192) Huîtres à la Villeroi (1056) Rissolettes à la Renan (957) Bouchées de ris de veau à la Française (940) Terrapène, Maryland Club (1088) Perdreaux piqués rôtis au jus et cresson (2102) Crabes durs farcis à la diable (1004) FROID. Saumon à la Moderne (2582) Filet de bœuf à la Lucullus (2436) Volière de faisan à la Waddington (2424) Jambon décoré à la Gatti (25210 Ballotines de pigeonneaux à la Madison (2427) Galantine de faisan à la Lorenzo (2494) Langues de bœuf, Rochefort (2606) Salmis froid de perdreaux (2574) Salade de homard à l'Américaine (2638) Mayonnaise de volaille (2625) Tétras rôtis au jus (2072) Sandwichs (811) Tartines de pain blanc beurrées (820) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Paniers d'oranges à la gelée (3130) Bavarois aux marrons (3136) Gâteau aux amandes (3225) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) GLACES. Bacchus (3590) Le Puits (3599) Toronchino Procope (3583) Tutti frutti (3586) Napolitaine (3569) Mokabelle (3565) PIèCES MONTÉES. Corne d'Abondance (3635) Chariot garni de pommes d'api (3632) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert FÉVRIER. 497 BUFFET POUR 200 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consommé (189) Huîtres frites au beurre (1061) Rissoles de palais de veau (952) Bouchées à la Victoria (942) Terrapène à la Baltimore (1083) Crabes durs farcis à la Caroline (1003) Ruddy duck rôti (2066) Café (3701) FROID. Galantine d'anguilles (2488) Canetons aux olives, Espagnole (2482) Faisan farci à la Prince Orloff (2553) Chaudfroid de filets de canards à tête rouge (2460) Filets de poulet, Mirebel (2464) Mousseline de homard (2537) Aspic de foies gras (2411) Coquilles de chapon à la gelée (2590) Tartines de pain de seigle beurrées (820) Petits pains garnis de rillettes de Tours (809) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gâteau Mille feuilles Pompadour (3247) Gâteau Favart (3263) Gelée au Madère (3186) Charlotte Russe (3145) GLACES. Ananas en surprise (3595) Turban à la vanille et aux fraises (3600) Madrilian (3562) Pommes de terre (3575) Pastèque (3589) Biscuit glacé à la Diplomate (3435) PIèCES MONTÉES. Vase en sucre filé (3637) Moulin à vent (3639) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert MARS. 498 BUFFET POUR 250 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon clair (187) Brochettes d'huîtres aux truffes (1058) Rissoles de volaille (948) Terrapène à la Maryland (1085) Homard à l'Ameéricaine (1024) Timbales à la La Vallière (2357) Café (3701) FROID. Saumon à la Farragut (2581) Filet de bœuf aux légumes mayonnaise (2441) Buisson de crustacés à la Rochelaise (2572) Timbale de faisan aux truffes (2605) Galantine à la Berger (2499) Langue de bœuf Écarlate en Arcade (2607) Chaudfroid de mauviettes (2454) Pâté de longe d'agneau à la gelée (2561) Cuisses de poulet en forme de caneton ravigote (2529) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gâteau Favart (3263) Biscuit aux amandes (3229) Gelée prunelle (3186) Bavarois aux meringues (3133) GLACES. Comtesse Léda (3548) Timbale Chateaubriand (3581) Panier de Perrette (3629) Œufs à' la Trémontaine (3550) Mignonne (3564) Biscuit tutti frutti (3585) PIèCES MONTÉES. Corbeille garnie de fruits (3628) Panier garni d'oranges (3570) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert AVRIL. 499 BUFFET POUR 150 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consommé (189) Huîtres à la poulette (1067) Palmettes à la Varsovienne (924) Rissoles de palais de bœuf (952) Bouchées Turbigo (941) Terrapène à la Crisfield (1084) Café (3701) FROID. Saumon à la Russe (2586) Filet de bœuf à la Noailles (2437) Galantine de pigeon (2496) Jambon truffé à la Florian (2523) Dinde en daube à la Verneuil (2615) Côtelettes d'agneau à l'aspic (2473) Petites caisses de grives à la gelée (2449) Aspic de faisan (2417) Salade de homard à l'Américaine (2638) Mayonnaise de poulet (2625) Sandwiches de viandes variées (815) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gâteau Gênoise (3239) Gelée à la Russe (3182) Gaufres brisselets à la crème framboisée (3223) Gâteau Jamaïque (3242) GLACES. Bacchus (3590) Le Puits (3599) Bombe à la Romaine (3442) Fiori di latte fleurs de violettes (3470) Plombière Montesquien aux pralines et aux pistaches (3480) Parfait au café (3479) PIèCES MONTÉES. Le Char des Cygnes (3634) Bateau bon voyage (3631) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3643) Devises (3653) Dessert. MAI. 500 BUFFET POUR 400 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon clair (187) Lucines orangées à la Philadelphie (994) Moules aux fines herbes gratinées (1050) Croquettes de canetons à la Muser (881) Bouchées aux crevettes (935) Crabes durs farcis aux champignons (1004) Café (3701) FROID. Saumon à la Seymour (2584) Grenadins filet de bœuf, Rochambeau (2439) Paon rôti et paré de son plumage (2552) Pâté de filets d'oie Adolphe Hardy (2557) Côtelettes d'agneau à l'Impériale (2471) Terrine de noix de Jambon (2597) Poulet Écarlate à la Derenne (2463) Aspic de veau aux artichauts macédoine (2421) Sandwichs (811) Rillettes de Tours (809) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gâteau à la gelée meringué (3243) Gelée aux fraises (3183) Baquets de gaufres à la crème (3128) Biscuit à l'Hernani (3228) GLACES. Melon, Cantaloup en suprise (3591) Nid garni d'œufs(3594) Pouding à la Constance (3490) Mousse à la l'ananas (3474) Biscuit glacé à la d'Orléans (3437) Alexandria (3539) Petites glaces fantaisie (3431) PIèCES MONTÉES. Le chariot des Colombes (3633) Le panier de Perrette (3629) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Café (3701) JUIN. 501 BUFFET POUR 60 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon (187) Lucines orangées à la poulette (995) Palmettes à la Périer (922) Rissoles de poisson (952) Petits pâtés feuilletés de saumon (945) Homard rôti à la diable (1030) FROID. Truites de ruisseau à la Carême (2611) Filet de bœuf aux croustades macédoine (2440) Côtelettes d'agneau au chaudfroid tomaté (2475) Ris de veau à la Mirabeau (2595) Célestine de poularde, Talleyrand (2450) Fricassée de poulet chaudfroid (2467) "Pain" de foies au salpicon (2547) Galantine de caneton en forme de poire (2487) Sandwichs assorties (811) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gâteau Moka (3249) Gelée à la Violette (3185) Corbeille en Nougat à la Crème (3129) Pouding Renaissance (3210) GLACES. Poule avec poussins (3594) Lapin en Surprise (3596) Arlequin (3554) Mousse aux fraises (3474) Soufflé glacé à l'Alcazar (3533) Asperges (3540) Petites glaces fantaisie (3431) PIèCES MONTÉES. Vase en sucre filé garni de fleurs (3637) Moulin à vent (3639) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert JUILLET. 502 BUFFET POUR 80 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon clair (187) Moules à la Marinière (1046) Lucines orangées farcies (997) Brissotins de volaille au suprême (849) Bouchées à l'Andalouse (934) Crabes moux grillés beurre ravigote (1006) FROID. Truites à la gelée sauce Tartare (2612) Filet de bœuf aux croustades macédoine (2440) Ballotine d'agneau en forme de coupole (2425) Côtelettes de veau à l'Anacréon (2478) Pâté de foies gras de Strasbourg (2564) Poularde piquée à la gelée (2571) Galantine d'oison en forme de melon (2489) Jambon glacé au sucre (2522) Sandwichs (811) Petits pains garnis de rillettes de Tours (809) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Biscuits à la crème (3137) Bavarois aux framboises (3134) Gâteau Napolitain (3250) Gâteau Reine (3256) GLACES. Ananas en Suprise (3595) Délicieux aux noisettes (3592) Soufflé glacé Palmyre (3535) Champignons (3568) Mousse aux pêches (3474) Pouding à la Romanoff (3497) Petites glaces fantaisie (3431) PIèCES MONTÉES. 2 Vases en sucre filé garnis de fleurs (3637) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert AOûT. 503 BUFFET POUR 150 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consommé (189) Moules à la poulette (1047) Lucines papillons frites (998) Croquettes de dinde (894) Bouchées à la Reine (938) Crabes moux sautés au beurre (1006) Café (3701) Thé (3704) FROID. Darne de saumon historiée (2576) Buisson d'écrevisses (2572) Petits aspics aux crevettes (2422) Galantine de pintade à la Lytton (2490) Pâté de caneton à la Rouennaise (2555) Poulet sauté à la Sherman (2468) Sandwichs de viandes (811) Canapés d'anchois (777) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gelée aux fruits et au kirsch (3187) Château framboisé(3141) Pound cake (3254) Pouding Harrison (3207) GLACES. Cantaloup moulé (3591) Nid garni d'œufs (3594) Pouding à la Serano (3498) Mousse à l'Italienne (3475) Spongade Médicis (3536) Petites glaces fantaisie (3431) PIèCES MONTÉES. Le char des Cygnes (3634) Bateau bon voyage (3631) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert SEPTEMBRE. 504 BUFFET POUR 300 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consommé de volaille (190) Bouchées à la Victoria (942) Croquettes de ris de veau (893) Homard à la Newberg (1037) Crabes moux frits (1006) Café (3701) Thé(3704) FROID. Turbot à la Rémoulade (2613) Chaudfroid de tétras (2457) Galantine de cochon de lait (2498) Pain de perdreau à la Montgomery (2548) Petites caisses de bécassines à la gelée (2448) Crème de homard (2470) Pâté froid de cailles (2565) Perdreaux piqués rôtis (2550) Salade de chapon (2624) Sandwichs (811) Rillettes de Tours (809) Canapés de caviar (777) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gelée au marsala (3186) Purée de pommes mousseuse (3127) Gelée aux fruits et au kirsch (3187) Riz Mirabeau (3213) GLACES. Corbeille jardinière aux Colombes (3593) Cygne aux roseaux (3597) Crème spongade à la Parépa (3537) Mousse aux liqueurs (3476) Bombe aux fruits printanière (3441) Oranges Posilipo (3571) PIèCES MONTÉES. Arbre prodigieux (3639a) Moulin à vent (3639) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert OCTOBRE. 505 BUFFET POUR 250 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon (187) Huîtres à la Philadelphie (1063) Croquettes de crabes à la Parmentier (879) Selle de chevreuil rôtie (2194) Bouchées de ris de veau à la Française (940) Café (3701) Thé (3704) FROID. Tranches de sheepshead à la gelée (2589) Filet de mouton à la Henry Clay (2541) Jambon de poulet garni de zampino (2525) Chaudfroid de perdreau Béatrice (2455) Hure de pore (2570) Aspic de homard (2414) Côtelettes de faisan chaudfroid (2477) Pâté froid de bécasses(2569) Terrine de mauviettes (2599) Sandwichs (811) Pains de rillettes de Tours (809) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Biscuits de Savoie (3231) Gelée au champagne (3186) Crème bain-marie (3160) Gâteau mandarin (3245) GLACES. Ananas en suprise (3595) Délicieux aux noisettes (3592) Pouding aux biscuits (3488) Mousse Sémiramis (3471) Soufflé glacé à l'Alcazar (3533) Asperges sauce marasquin (3540) PIèCES MONTÉES. 2 Vases en sucre filé (3637) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert NOVEMBRE. 506 BUFFET POUR 200 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consommé (189) Huîtres à la Hollandaise (1066) Rissoles de ris de veau (954) Bécassines rôties (2159) Croquettes de brochet à la Romaine (890) Café (3701) Thé (3704) FROID. Saumon Vénitienne (2587) Filet de bœuf à la Evers (2435) Galantine de perdreau,;Eacute;lisabeth (2493) Pâté de lièvre dans un plat (2559) Côtelettes de homard à la Lowery (2476) Aspic de filets de caille (2419) Filets de poulet Renaissance(2465) Chaudfroid de courlis au fumet(2452) Estomacs de dinde à la Gustave Doré (2617) Sandwichs (811) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gelée au sherry (3186) Pouding Castillane (3206) Bordure Caroline au champagne (3140) Gâteau de noisettes (3241) Crème de riz à l'angélique (3151) Marrons à la crème (3147) GLACES. Corbeille jardinière aux colombes (3593) Le cygne aux roseaux (3597) Pouding de ris à l'impérial (3494) La Grandina (3556) Fiori di latte à la fleur d'orange (3469) Sabayon à la Cannetti(3531) PIèCES MONTÉES. Brouette de fleurs (3638) Chariot de pommes (3632) 2 Corbeilles de fruits (3699) Glaces (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert DÉCEMBRE. 507 BUFFET POUR 150 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon (187) Huîtres frites au beurre (1061) Timbales à la Dumas (965) Bouchées à la Reine (938) Terrapène Epicurienne (1090) Poules de neige rôties (2072) Café (3701) FROID. Saumon à la Avelane (2579) Filet de bœuf à la Violetta (2438) Galantine de perdreau Clémentine (2491) Petites caisses de foies gras (2229) Chaudfroid de cailles Baudy (2459) Côtelettes de bécasses Sarah Bernhardt (2480) Terrine de lièvre (2598) Aspic de crêtes et rognons de coq à la Mazarin (2410) Sandwichs assorties (811) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gâteau Roederer (3257) Gelée aux pêches (3187) Timbales Massillon (3221) Pouding à la Boissy(3205) GLACES. Ananas en surprise (3595) Délicieux aux noisettes (3592) Manchon Déjazet à la crème Vénus (3567) Biscuits glacés (3438) Glaces assorties (3538) Punch granit au café (3505) PIèCES MONTÉES. Bateau "Bon Voyage" (3631) Panier de Cerises (3630) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert SEPTEMBER. 508 SIDEBOARD FOR 150 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HOT. Consommé (189) Oysters à la poulette (1067) Sweetbread cutlets à la Talleyrand (2272) Roast woodcock (2206) Pullet croquettes à la Wright Sanford (882) Tenderloin of beef, royale (1458) COLD. Salmon with Montpellier butter (2588) English ham with jelly (2524) Galantine of partridge, sliced (2492) Decorated wild boar's head (2618) Dressed game pie à la Lesage (2556) Chaudfroid of young Guinea fowl (2453) Terrine of plover and larks (2601) Small "pain" of chicken à la Freyeinet (2544) Mousseline of woodcock (2540) Sandwiches (811) Small "pains" of Rillettes de Tours (809) SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. Mousseline biscuit (3230) Greengage jelly (3187) Chestnuts with cream (3147) Gugelhopfen cake (3240) ICES. Hen and chicks (3594) Rabbit in surprise (3596) Excelsior Biscuit (3436) Printanière fruit Bomb (3441) Waddington pudding (3500) Chartreuse mousse (3476) CENTER PIECES. Chariot filled with lady apples (3632) Horn of plenty (3635) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert Lady cake (3244) OCTOBER. 509 SIDEBOARD FOR 350 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HOT. Cream of peas, St. Germain (260) Béchamel oysters with truffles (1065) Rissoles à la Demidoff (950) Roast plover (2119) Patties with mushrooms (937) Frog croquettes (884) COLD. Salmon à la Régence (2583) Tenderloin of beef on a socle Bouquetière (2434) Volière galantine of pheasants, Casimir Périer (2423) Galantine of chicken à la d'Orléans (2486) Woodcock à la Valère (2619) Terrine of duck's liver à l'Aquitaine (2596) Aspic of minion fillets of partridge (2416) Fillets of sole à la Mazagran (2593) Assorted sandwiches (815) SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. Plum cake (3253) Peach jelly (3187) Cream cornets with orange (3148) Camper crowns (3156) ICES. Bacchus (3590) The Well (3599) Banana pudding (3487) Bomb with maraschino (3443) Mousse with macaroons (3477) Apples in surprise (3574) Waffles with vanilla (3285) CENTER PIECES. Basket filled with candied fruits (3628) Perrette's basket (3629) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert Fruit cake (3238) NOVEMBER. 510 SIDEBOARD FOR 200 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HOT. Cream of rice, Crémieux (249) Oysters Viennaise (1068) Palmettes of turkey à la Béarnaise (933) Turbigo patties (941) Terrapin à la Trenton (1090) Roast partridges with gravy and water cress (2102) Coffee (3701) COLD. Decorated slices of salmon (2577) Saddle of venison à la Harder (2573) Aspic of oysters (2415) Chaudfroid of woodcock with fumet (2452) Red beef tongue with jelly (2609) Ballotines of quail à la Tivolier (2426) Terrine of wild rabbit (2604) Snipe pie (2567) Sandwiches (811) SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. Breton cake (3232) Noyau jelly (3186) Apple Flamri (3166) Large brioche (3234) ICES. Hen with chicks (3594) Rabbit in surprise (3596) Plum pudding (3496) Grandina (3556) Parisian (3573) Gramolates with oranges (3610) CENTER PIECES. Basket of cherries (3630) Wheelbarrow filled with flowers (3638) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert Pound Cake (3253) DECEMBER. 511 SIDEBOARD FOR 400 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HOT. Chicken consommé (190) Oyster rissolettes à la Pompadour (1054) Lamb croquettes à la De Rivas (888) Roast quails (2131) Crab patties (935) Timbale à la Renaissance (981) Coffee (3701) COLD. Slices of salmon with jelly (2578) Ribs of beef in Bellevue (2432) Galantine of partridge (2492) "Pain" of partridge à la Montgomery (2548) Chaudfroid of snipe in pyramid (2461) Woodcock cutlets, Poniatowski (2479) Mousseline of pheasant, Princess (2538) Pâté de foies gras in border (2483) Chicken legs in the shape of ducklings (2529) Sandwiches (811) SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. Compiègne cake (3236) Prunelle jelly (3186) Apricot rice (3214) "Pain" of chestnut à la Béotie (3196) ICES. Algerian timbale (3580) Cauliflower with marchioness rice (3544) Léona (3558) St. Jacques Cup (3560) Corn (3547) Pears in surprise (3574) CENTER PIECES. Chariot filled with lady apples (3632) Horn of plenty (3635) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert Pound cake (3254) JANUARY. 512 SIDEBOARD FOR 300 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HOT. Clear bouillon (187) Fried oysters à la Horly (1060) Oyster patties (939) Scallops à la Marinière (1076) Turkey croquettes (894) Roast canvasback (2055) Stuffed lobster tails (1043) COLD. Salmon à la Courbet (2585) Tenderloin of beef à la Noailles (2437) "Pain" of game Diana (2546) Bastion, American style (2429) Chaudfroid of chicken à la Clara Morris (2451) Cold salmis of quails à la Balzac (2575) Terrine of partridge de Nérac (2600) Galantine of pheasant (2495) Rolls filled with rillettes (809) Buttered slices of rye bread (820) SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. Macédoine champagne jelly (3179) "Pain" of apricots (3194) Pineapple cake (3252) Ministerial pudding (3209) ICES. The helmet (3598) Delicious with hazelnuts (3592) Montélimar with hazelnuts (3566) Ribambelle (3576) Madeleine (3561) Rice with maraschino (3578) CENTER PIECES. Basket filled with candied fruit (3628) Basket filled with tortillons (3628) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert Wedding cake (3238) FEBRUARY. 513 SIDEBOARD FOR 200 PERSONS. BILL OF FARE. HOT. Chicken consommé (190) Broiled oysters, maître-d'hôtel (1059) Scallops à la Havraise (1075) Palmettes à la Périer (922) Roast redhead ducks (2063) Coffee (3701) COLD. Salmon à la d'Estaing (2580) Tenderloin of beef à la Violetta (2438) "Pain" of game à la Bartholdi (2545) Aspic of tongue à la Picquart (2420) Chaudfroid of fillets of pheasant (2456) Cutlets of kernel of lamb in Bellevue (2472) Galantine of pullet à la Mozart (2497) Boar's head (2570) Chicken mayonnaise (2625) Sandwiches (811) Small fancy rolls filled with rillettes de Tours (809) SWEET DISHES AND DESSERT. Syruped baba (3227) Sponge cake (3260) Californian pineapple jelly (3178) Blanc mange à la Smolenska (3138) ICES. Cantaloup in surprise (3591) Nest with eggs (3594) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) Sicilian (3579) Ristori rice (3577) Marvelous (3563) Granite with currants (3611) CENTER PIECES. Cornucopia garnished with fruit (3635) Wheelbarrow filled with flowers (3638) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert Angel cake (3226) RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. BREAKFAST. JUNE. Coffee (3701) Chocolate (3700) Arabian racahout (3703) English breakfast tea (3704) SIDE DISHES. Clams (803) Gherkins (785) Sandwiches (811) Radishes (808) Olives (800) Caviare (778) Anchovies (772) Sardines (817) Lyon sausage (818) Stuffed olives (801) Marinated tunny fish (831) Mackerel in oil (797) Mortandella (818) Aries sausage (818) EGGS. Boiled (2856) Fried à la Eugène André(2866) Scrambled à la Columbus (3934) On a dish (2909) Fried turned over à la sole (2869) Hard boiled, Russian style (2865) OMELETS: Argentine (2878) With clams (2885) With bacon (2879) Cocottes (2873) Soft eggs with purée of sorrel (2951) Poached eggs with gravy (2931) FISH. Red bass water fish (1098) Pike perch à la Durance (1213) Whitebait (1310) Black bass à la Narragansett (1095) Mussels à la poulette (1047) Kingfish à la batelière (1179) Porgy with Chablis wine (1231) Bluefish à la Barnave (1117) HOT. Pig's feet à la St. Ménéhould (1783) Veal cutlets (1501) Mutton cutlets (1590) Beefsteak (1368) Pork chops (1778) Spring lamb cutlets (1669) Roast squabs (2018) Beef palate à la Béchamel (1326) Chateaubriand (1380) Escalops of veal à la Habirshaw (2282) Mutton breast broiled (1585) Stuffed breast of lamb, Velouté tomato sauce (1665) Frogs' legs à la poulette with mushrooms (1019) Chicken sautéd, half glaze (1906) Squabs à la Carolina (2021) Delmonico sirloin steak, Spanish style (1377) Porterhouse steak (1362) COLD. Corned beef, pressed (2430) English ham with jelly (2524) Red beef tongue with jelly (2609) Ribs of beef Bellevue (2432) Boned turkey (2499) Calf tongue à la Macédoine (2610) Lamb pie (2561) Beef à la mode (2433) Aspic de foies gras (2411) Roast chicken with jelly and beef tongue (2469) SALADS. Tomato (2666) Water-cress (2676) Celery (2660) Macédoine(2650) Chicken mayonnaise (2625) Russian (2645) VEGETABLES. POTATOES: Fried (2787) Mashed in snow (2798) Broiled sweet potatoes (2832) Saratoga (2803) Beets with butter and fine herbs (2702) Boiled asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (2692) Succotash (2731) BREAKFAST CAKES. Brioches (3269) Wheaten grits (3280) Hominy (3280) Oat meal (3280) Muffins (3414) Corn bread (3422) Indian cake (3274) Flannel cake (3273) Waffles (3284) DESSERT. Darioles with orange-flower water (3300) FRESH FRIUTS: (3699) Apples Oranges Bananas Pears Watermelon Peaches CHEESE: (2697) American Brie Stilton Roquefort Chester Glass of cream or milk RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. LUNCH. JULY. CLAMS (803) SOUPS. Consommé in cup (189) Pea purée with croûtons (282) Julienne faubonne (318) Fish broth with clams (370) Clam chowder (300) Chicken okra (299) Mock turtle thickened (355) Cream of corn à la Hermann (255) FISH. Fresh mackerelmaître-d'hôtel (1193) Fried soft shell crabs (1006) Striped bass à la Bercy (1191) Baked codfish Duxelle (1136) Kingfish à la Batelière (1179) Fillets of spotted fish English style (1283) Porgies à la Manhattan (1229) Eels à la Maréchale (1149) READY. Leg of mutton à la Bordelaise (1622) Sirloin of beef à la Dauphiness (1350) Sausages with cream potatoes (1804) Loin of veal with gravy (1537) Bacon with spinach (1771) Chicken fricassée à la Bouchard (1862) Poached eggs with purée of chicken suprême (2932) TO ORDER. Veal cutletmaîre-d'hôtel (1501) Small steak plain (1368) Mutton cutlets with purée of chestnut (1599) Chicken croquettes exquisite (877) Lamb cutlets (1669) Minions of fillet of veal with mushrooms (1510) Squabs à la Briand (2006) Chicken cocotte (1832) Noisettes fillet of beef à la Berthier (1411) Frog's legs à la d'Antin (1017) Mutton breast with tomato Andalouse sauce (1586) Squabs sautéd à l'Impromptu(2010) COLD. Pickles (785) Radishes (808) Olives (800) Caviare (778) Celery (779) English ham with jelly (2524) Anchovies (772) Sardines in oil (772) Lyons sausage (818) Mortadella (818) Sandwiches (811) Mackerel in oil (797) Stuffed olives with anchovy butter (801) Marinated tunny (831) Spring lamb (2561) Red beef tongue (2609) Lobster with mayonnaise (2638) Boned turkey (2499) Goose liver pie (2562) SALADS. Russian (2645) Tomato (2666) Chicken mayonnaise (2625) Potato (2654) Macédoine (2650) Water-cress(2676) VEGETABLES. POTATOES: Fried (2787) Saratoga (2803) Hashed, with cream (2780) Lyonnese (2794) String beans à l'Albani (2825) Boiled asparagus with Hollandaise (2692) Lima beans with thickenedmaître-d'hôtel (2699) Green peas, French style (2743) Green corn on the cob (2730) Stuffed truffles (2845) Tomatoes broiled with mayonnaise sauce (2838) DESSERT. ICE CREAM: Toronchino, Procope (3583) Pistachio (3454) Asparagus (3540) Nesselrode pudding with chestnuts (3495) Vanilla (3458) Chocolate (3449) Tutti frutti (3586) Tortoni cups (3584) Neapolitan (3569) Banana cream (3451) White coffee (3460) WATER ICE: Raspberry (3607) Orange (3605) Lemon (3604) PUNCH: Roman (3515) Kirsch (3510) Lalla Rookh (3516) Maraschino (3510) Bucket made of Chantilly waffles(3128) Charlotte russe (3145) FRUITS: (3699) Watermelon Muskmelon Peaches Bananas Apples Grapes CHEESE: (3697) American Roquefort Edam Camembert Pont l'Évêque French coffee (3701) Turkish coffee (3702) RESTAURANT OF BILL OF FARE. DINNER. MAY. Clams (803) SOUPS. Consommé Carême (222) Rice à la Rudini (343) Sherman (344) Bisque of crawfish à la Batelière (202) Cream of sorrel with stuffed eggs (262) Julienne Mogul (318) Pea purée with croûtons (282) Croûte au pot (305) Chicken okra (299) Chicken okra strained (299) Small individual soup pots (346) SIDE DISHES -COLD. Radishes (808) Olives (800) Caviare (778) Sardines in oil (772) Lyons sausages (818) Marinated tunny (831) Gherkins (785) Mortadella (818) Stuffed olives with anchovy butter (801) Mackerel in oil (797) SIDE DISHES -HOT. Cromesquis of sweetbread, Babanine (872) FISH. Mussels with shallot (1051) Eels broiled tartar sauce ( 1150) Planked shad ravigote butter (1255) Spotted fishLivournaise (1282) Weakfish à la Brighton (1308) Fried soft shell crabs (1006) Blackfish à la Sandford (1115) Lobster à la Camille (1028) Sheepshead, Buena Vista (1259) REMOVES. Roast sirloin of beef with brain patties (1355) Rump of beef Boucicault (1337) Pullet in surprise (1987) ENTREES. Mutton pie Canadian style (2375) Sautéd chicken florentine style (1890) Mushrooms crust with truffles (2759) Minions of tenderloin of beef à la Stanley (1406) Hot plover pie (2317) Breasts of turkey Donovan (2037) Squabs à la Crispi (2008) Frog shells (2347) Sweetbread à la St. Cloud (1566) SORBETS: Lalla Rookh (3516) Kirsch (3510) Maraschino (3510) Rum (3510) ROAST. Leg of mutton à la Roederer (1627) Leg of yearling lamb with gravy (1715) Beef ribs, American style (1331) Squabs (2018) Duckling (1921) Partridge broiled, English style (2085) Chicken in the saucepan (1881) COLD. Galantine of chicken (2485a) Trout, tartar sauce (2612) Terrine of duck livers à l'Aquitaine (2596) SALADS: Lettuce(2672) Water-cress (2676) Macédoine (2650) Chicory (2668) VEGETABLES. Purslain à la Brabançon (2815) Lima bean thickened maître-d'hôtel (2699) Potatoes Parisienne (2786) Potatoes, Anna (2770) Potatoes half glaze (2784) Green peas, English style (2742) String beans with butter (2829) Boiled asparagus with Hollandaise sauce (2692) Succotash (2731) Cèpes baked with cream (2724) Stuffed cauliflower à la béchamel, baked (2715) Risot à la Francatelli (2979) Tomatoes à laBoquillon (2833) Cardoons with half glaze (2710) Fried eggplant (2739) Spaghetti macaroni à la Lawrence (2966) Asparagus tops à la Maintenon(2695) Corn on the cob (2730) Spinach with cream (2820) Macaroni à la Brignoli (2958) Whole artichoke boiled with white sauce (2691) Macédoine à la Montigny(2755) Sweet potatoes roasted (2832) SWEET ENTREMETS. HOT: Pancakes with brown sugar (3077) Glazed apple marmalade (3126) COLD: Blanc mange with strawberries (3139) Bain marie cream molded (3149) Charlotte Russe (3145) Cream Malakoff (3150) DESSERT. FANCY CREAMS: Biscuit, Excelsior (3436) Basket filled with oranges (3570) Nesselrode pudding with candied chestnuts (3495) Biscuit glacé (3435) Neapolitan (3569) Plombière with chestnuts (3486) CREAMS: Vanilla (3458) White coffee (3460) Pistachio (3454) WATER ICE: Lemon (3604) Raspberry (3607) Pineapple (3606) Assorted cakes (3364) Preserved fruits (3679) greengages, peaches, pineapple, quinces (3679) Marmalade (3674) jelly, Dundee, peaches, ginger, Guava, Bar-le-duc (3678) Stewed fruits (3686) pineapple, peaches, pears, prunes, apples, with jelly, bananas, cherries, chestnuts, oranges, orange salad, strawberries, raspberries. Brandy fruits(3660) greengages, pears, oranges, strawberries with cream. CHEESE (3697) Stilton, Brie, Strachino, Gorgonzola, Gruyère, Chester, Gervias, Port Salut, Holland French coffee (3701) Turkish coffee (3702) RESTAURANT BILL OF FARE. SUPPER. AUGUST. Clams (803) HOT. Welsh rarebit (946) Consommé in cups (189) Golden buck (946) Stuffed lobster tails, deviled (1043) Ramequins (2975) Deviled mutton kidneys on skewers (1620) Stuffed hard shell crabs Carolina style (1003) Sweetbread croquettes (893) Chicken legs in papers (1876) Croustades à la Castillane (895) Bondons of woodcock à la Diane (845) Chicken breast à la Chevreuse (1827) Squab à la Briand (2006) Minions of tenderloin of beef à la Baillard (1400) COLD. Sandwiches (811) Caviare (778) Radishes (808) Mortadella (818) Anchovies (772) Marinated sardines (831) Celery (779) Tunny (831) Lyon's sausage (818) Boned turkey (2499) Caviare canapé (777) Goose liver pie (2562) SALADS. Lettuce (2672) Cucumber (2661) Water-cress (2676) Celery (2660) Macédoine (2650) Cos lettuce (2675) Lobster American style (2638) Chicken mayonnaise (2625) Russian (2645) Tomato (2666) DESSERT. Ice Cream SHERBET: Kirsch (3510) Lalla Rookh (3516) Prunelle (3510) Maraschino (3510) WATER ICE: Raspberry (3607) Pine apple (3606) Lemon (3604) Orange (3605) FANCY: Pudding Cavour (3489) Banana in surprise (3541) Plombière à la Rochambeau (3482) Vanilla (3458) Chocolate (3449) Coffee (3460) Pistachio (3454) Biscuit glacé (3435) Neapolitan (3569) Charlotte russe (3145) Madeira jelly (3186) Apricot flawn (3170) FRESH FRUITS (3699): Bananas, pineapples, apples, oranges, Niagara grapes, huckleberries, currants, muskmelon, watermelon CHEESE (3697): Stilton, Gruyère, Cream, Strachino French coffee (3701) Turkish coffee (3702) All the Epicurean recipes are included in the menus. The heading of each recipe being in English and in French permits any person not thoroughly versed in both these languages to compose his bill of fare in either the one or the other. He has simply to make his selection of the necessary recipe and by referring to the number of the article, write his bill of fare in English or in French as he so chooses. In wording a dinner bill of fare be very careful to denote the fish or shell fish, the butcher's meat, the poultry and game in season, alternating white or brown for each course, also the white or brown sauces. I have as far as practicable replaced the term fillet by breasts for poultry or game and aiguillettes for fish, so that the word fillet need not be too frequently repeated in the same bill of fare. Oysters can be omitted from the bills of fare, also cold side dishes, salads and coffee, besides the details of the dessert following the entremets need only be mentioned by the single word of dessert. ELEMENTARY METHODS. (1). BURNT ALMONDS AND PILBERTS (Amandes et Avelines Pralinées). Split some shelled almonds or filberts in two; if almonds are used mince well and roast lightly in the oven, on a baking sheet without letting them color, then mix in with them half their weight of sugar and enough egg-white, so they be entirely covered by the sugar. When the burnt almonds are spread on cakes, they must be covered over with sugar and glazed in a brisk oven. (2). CONDÉ ALMOND OR FILBERT PREPARATION (Appareil à Condé aux Amandes ou Aux Avelines). Put into a vessel three ounces of powdered sugar, one ounce of vanilla sugar, four ounces of icing sugar. Dilute this compound gradually with egg-whites, in such a manner that a smooth running paste is obtained, and beat it well for several minutes, so that it becomes a consistent body. To this add six ounces of dry almonds or filberts, shelled, ground or chopped up very fine. (3). TO CHOP AND SHRED ALMONDS. (Pour Hacher et Effiler les Amandes). Chopped. -When the almonds are partly dry, chop them up and sift them through a sieve ( Fig. 94), chop again all that remains on the sieve and continue until there be no more to pass through. Shredded Almonds. -Are freshly peeled almonds dried well in a cloth, then cut into thin fillets on their length, or else put them into a special machine that shreds them also, but they never look so well, as the machine cuts them into all sorts of shapes, while with the knife, they are cut into uniform lengths. (4). ALMOND MILK (Lait d'Amandes). Pound half a pound of almonds with a few spoonfuls of cold water and two spoonfuls of orange-flower water; prepare a very fine paste with this and dilute with a pint of water; strain the liquid forcibly through a napkin. (5). TO PEEL ALMONDS, PISTACHIOS OR FILBERTS (Pour Monder les Amandes, Pistaches ou Avelines). In order to remove the peels from almonds, filberts or pistachio nuts, they must first be plunged into boiling water and left on the fire until the skin detaches easily under the pressure of the finger, then drain and refresh in cold water; now drain and peel them by removing the skins wash in cold water, drain, wipe and dry in the heater or in a well aired place. For Filberts or Nuts. -To be peeled dry, crack the shells with a nut -cracking machine, being careful not to break the kernel, then peel them dry by putting the nuts on a baking sheet and pushing it into a medium oven, removing them immediately the outer skin detaches when the nut is rubbed between the thumb and first finger; keep them either whole or in halves and use for ice cream and desserts. Those peeled in water are for chopping, or splitting in two for nougats, also for cooked sugar pastes. (6). TO POUND, CRUSH, AND COLOR ALMONDS (Pour Piler Broyer et Colorer les Amandes). To Pound. - Almonds are pounded in a mortar or crushed in a machine; in the mortar by wetting a few at the time with either eggs or liquids, then stirring in some sugar. In a machine, by mixing the almonds and sugar together and pouring it into the funnel of the machine; the first time they should be barely crushed, pass through four times, tightening the cylinders slightly for each turn, and the last time the almonds should be reduced to a paste. To Color Almonds. -Use chopped or shredded almonds for coloring. For pink, dilute a little carmine in some thirty degree syrup with a little kirsch; rub the almonds in this and dry them. For violet, use red, blue and maraschino; for orange, yellow, red and curaçao; for lemon color, yellow and noyau; and for green, spinach and orange flower water. (7). TO BLANCH RICE (Pour Blanchir le Riz). Before blanching rice it should be picked, washed, then put into a saucepan and moistened with cold water; bring the liquid to boiling point, stirring it frequently with a spoon so it does not adhere to the bottom of the saucepan, and let it boil for seven or eight minutes, pour the rice into a sieve to drain, refresh in cold water and strain. (8). TO BLANCH VEGETABLES (Pour Blanchir les Légumes). Vegetables are blanched in more or less time according to their nature, and not only to correct their bitterness, but to soften them as well; the blanching is the prologue of the cooking and is accomplished in boiling, salted water, either in a saucepan, a tinned copper pan, a copper untinned pan, or an untinned saucepan. In the copper and untinned pans, only the green vegetables should be cooked, such as spinach, green peas, string beans , fresh asparagus, in fact all vegetables that must retain a pretty, pale green color. Artichokes should be cooked in a very clean well-tinned saucepan. To blanch parsley, chervil, tarragon, onions, shallots, etc., plunge them in boiling water several times. (9). TO BONE POULTRY OR GAME (Pour Déosser la Volaille et le Gibier). Poultry or game are generally boned in order to stuff them properly; they must first be singed lightly, the legs cut off as well as the pinions and neck, keeping the skin of the latter as long as possible; split the skin right along the back so as to free the carcass on both sides, using a small knife for this purpose, afterward separate the stump from each wing, so as to reach the fillets. When the fore-part of the belly is detached, separate also the thighs by dislocating them at the first joint adhering to the carcass, then bone the fleshy part of the thighs and the drum -sticks. Cut the carcass down as far as the rump, so as to detach it entirely, and if these instructions are strictly followed, the piece of poultry or game will be found to be entirely boned, and the only parts now to be removed are the stumps of the wings and the large nerve found in the flesh of the thighs, and detach from the carcass the two minion fillets from which you remove the nerves. (10). DISH BORDERS OF NOODLE PASTE, COOKED PASTE, METAL, ENGLISH PASTE OR GUM PASTE, DISH BOTTOMS, FOUNDATIONS, SUPPORTS, TRIANGLE FOR DRESSING TONGUES, HATELETS FOR HOT REMOVES AND ENTREES, FANCY FRILLS, AND FAVOR FRILLS (Bordures de Plat en Nouilles Pâte Cuite, et en Métal, Pâte Anglaise et Pastillage, Fonds de Plats et Supports, Croûton Triangle pour Dresser les Langues, Hâtelets pour Relevés et Entrées Chauds, Bouffettes et Manchettes). Several kinds of borders are used in the kitchen for the purpose of decorating dishes; those most employed are cut out with a pastry cutter from a band of noodle paste (No. 142.) To make noodle paste borders requires ingenuity, although it is not difficult. First it needs a good noodle paste of a fine color and very smooth; divide it in several parts and roll these into sausage shapes, then flatten down with a rolling pin drawing them out to a sufficient length so the band can reach all around the basin of the dish; then cut these bands into the desired width keeping them exceedingly straight; roll them over on themselves without pressing, then unroll slowly on to a paper band to design them with a cutter ( Fig. 1), rolling up the cut out end as soon as finished to prevent the paste from drying; they may also be molded in molds shown in Fig. 2. FIG. 1 An illustration of a pattern used in making Noodle Paste Borders. FIG. 2 An illustration of a pattern used in making Noodle Paste Borders. To fasten the border onto the dish, push a string of repère (No. 142) through a cornet around the basin of the dish exactly where the border is to stand upright; place the dish on top of a cool part of the range and unroll the cut-out band speedily onto the repère to fasten it on in an upright position, attach the two ends together, then bend the band outward with the fingers to give it sufficient splay, turning it around all the time until it is dry enough to stand by itself, then cover over to prevent the border from drying. Another style of border ( Fig. 3) greatly admired is made of cooked white paste (No. 131) also carved out with the pastry cutter, but under more simple conditions and is more resisting. These are very appropriate for entrées having an abundance of garnishing or a plentiful supply of gravy, thereby requiring a more resisting substance than noodle paste. This kind can be seen in the different entrées illustrated in this work, but more specially in the figure representing a chicken à la Montesquieu ( Fig. 372). But a style even more used and certainly far more practical is a border made of metal ( Figs. 4-5-6); they are fit to be served at a family dinner as well as at the most luxurious banquet in which the dishes are invariably handed round to the guests, for instance those viands dressed in the kitchen. These borders are movable and should be made the same size as the basin of the dish for which it is intended. These borders are of sterling silver, but they can be imitated in plated ware; let it be well understood that these borders can only be placed on metal, silver or plated dishes. FIG. 3, FIG. 4, FIG. 5, FIG. 6. Illustrations of Different Borders for Dishes made up of Metals. For Borders of English Paste or Gum Paste. -Roll out the paste to the desired thickness and with a fancy cutter ( Fig. 6A) cut out some pieces and dry them on an even surface covered with paper; when finished place them in closed boxes in a dry place and when ready to use push a string of royal icing on the edge of the basin of the dish or platform and dress the border very evenly around. FIG. 6A. An illustration of a Nice Pattern used in Making Borders of Gum paste. Dish Bottoms, Foundations and Supports. -These foundations or dish bottoms serve for dressing pieces, removes or entrées, so to raise them and give them a more elegant appearance. They are to be made either of bread, rice, hominy, wood or tin. Round ones for entrées and ovals for removes for large roasts. The height for entrées is about one and a half inches, while for removes they are to be two inches; those of wood or tin are to be covered with noodle paste, those of rice or hominy are sculptured or carved with a knife. FIG. 7, FIG. 8. Illustrations of Different Dish Bottoms. Molded supports are to be prepared for boned turkeys, capon, pullet, etc.; these are of an oblong shape, rounded at the ends (See Fig. 9A.); the longest ones intended for turkey's are nine and a quarter inches long by four and three quarters wide and two and a quarter high; for capons they are to be nine inches long, four and a half wide and two inches high; for tenderloins of beef, ten inches long by four wide and two and a half high; for hams, they are oval shaped, twelve by nine and three high. FIG. 9, FIG. 9A. Illustrations of Different Molds use for Different Kinds of Food. Triangle for Dressing Tongues, etc. -For the largest ones have the three sides of the triangle each twelve inches long; the thickness at the base is three inches and two inches at the top; they can be made either of rice or hominy in molds having the required dimensions ( Fig. 10), or else lower ones with the following proportions: length at the base, twelve inches by eight high; cut off an inch and a half from the top of the smallest and three inches from the largest; this will form a platform for placing the subjects on. They can also be made of bread spread over with green butter and then heavily strewn with very finely chopped green parsley. Let it be well understood that the socles called dish bottoms are not intended to be eaten. The socle has nothing whatever to do with the dish itself; it represents an accessory made for the purpose of raising the meats, etc., dressed over it, showing off advantageously the surrounding garnishing. FIG. 10. An illustration of a Triangular Pattern used for Dressing Tongues. Hâtelets (Skewers) for Hot Removes and Entrées. -Hâtelets are employed either as an ornament or else a garnishing; they are applied to removes and entrée dishes. Hâtelets should only be used on ceremonious occasions, for a too prodigal use of them is apt to decrease their value. They are ornamented with unpeeled truffles, mushrooms, or cock's combs, either plain or double hâtelets are also composed of Villeroi quenelles, sweetbread croquettes, or glazed crawfish; they are also made of vegetables, carrots, turnips and artichoke bottoms slightly blanched. Hâtelets in tended for garnishing cold pieces are to be found in the chapter on cold dishes (2526). FIG. 11. An illustration of a Hatler in a Flowery Pattern. Fancy Frills for Large Pieces, such as Leg of Mutton, Ham, etc. -Cut a band of paper twelve inches long by three and a half wide; fold it in two on its length and again in two, this making a seven-eighths of an inch wide band, cut it finely on the folded edge, or else pass it through a cutting machine; unfold the band, turn it over so that the cutting detaches better, then twist this band in a spiral around a tin tube; fasten the end with a little mucilage, take it off the tube and place inside either a straight or turned up sconce. To make these sconces, fold a thin sheet of paper six inches square in two, then in four, then again fold in a triangle, beginning at the pointed ends, fold it once more. Cut the paper pointed shaped beginning from the center and rounding toward the bottom; unfold, and with the blade of a small knife, press down each fold so as to have them all come on one side and thus form a kind of pointed funnel. Unite the points one on to the other, closing and pressing them together; they should now be the same shape as when cut; place one in the FIG. 12, FIG. 13. Illustrations of Fancy Frills used for Large Food Items. corner of a fine towel, fold it over, press down heavily with the palm of the left hand, then pullthe napkin quickly away with the right hand; by this operation, and the pressure, the paper is both folded and goffered at once; the sconce is now made and it only requires to have the bottom cut off to fit it into the frill. (See Fig. 13 and 14.) FIG. 14, FIG. 15. Illustrations of Different Fancy Frills use for Smaller Items of Food. Fancy Frills for Cutlets, Chicken Legs or Wings. -Cut some sheets of paper five inches long by three inches wide, fold in two across the length; fold once more in two; cut them by clipping in slits one thirty-second of an inch apart, or else use the machine. Fold this band, twining it in such a manner that the slits are rounded, then fasten with a little mucilage; roll the frill spiralwise on a column-tube or a piece of round wood three-eighths of an inch in diameter. Attach the end of the paper with a little mucilage and when the frill is properly fastened, cut the ends off straight so that they are all of one length ( Fig. 12). Favor Frills. -Have a small piece of rounded wood an eighth of an inch in diameter and an inch and three-quarters long, tapered on one end; roll on this spiralwise, some prepared paper a third smaller than for the other frills; fasten the two ends together on the stick and trim the paper adhering to the stick with a small ribbon fastened on in the shape of a little rosette. These favors are for chicken-breasts, lobster cutlets, etc. (11). TO PREPARE BOUCHÉES (Pour Préparer les Bouchées). Roll out on a flour ed table some six turned puff paste (No. 146) , keeping it one quarter of an inch in thickness; let this paste rest, and then cut from it a dozen round pieces, using a channeled pastry cutter, from two, to two and a quarter inches in diameter ( Fig. 16). Turn these over on to a wet baking sheet, leaving them a short distance apart, and egg over the surfaces with a brush. Trace on them quickly a ring using a smooth, well heated pastry cutter ( Fig. 17), so that the incision is clear, and with a small knife trace three lines in the inside of this ring ( Fig. 18); put the baking sheet into an oven, not excessively hot, and cook the bouchées for eighteen to twenty minutes; detach them from the baking sheet, slipping a knife underneath each one, open at once to empty them, save the covers, and keep warm until needed. FIG. 16, FIG. 17, FIG. 18. Illustrations of Different Kinds of Pastry Cutters. (12). TO BRAIZE OR POÉLER, SMOTHER OR SAUTER (Pour Braiser, Poêler, Étuver ou Sauter). Braizing meat is to cook a piece of meat in a saucepan, lining the bottom with bardes or slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots and onions cut in slices, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaves, a little thyme, chives and one onion with cloves in it. Arrange the meat, fowl or game on top of these and moisten with some broth, then re-cover the meat with more bardes of fat pork; these meats must be cooked slowly in a slack oven, or by placing hot coals on the cover. Poéler. -Cut up one pound of breast of pork and half a pound of raw ham, into half inch squares; six ounces of carrot, four ounces of onion in half inch squares, two bay leaves, the same quantity of thyme, a bit of mace, two cloves and some basil, the whole of these aromatics tied inside a bunch of parsley. Melt the pork with the vegetables and bouquet, not letting it color, then place on top a fat pullet prepared and trussed as for an entrée, covering the breasts with slices of peeled lemon, and bardes of fat pork tied on with a string; pour over some fat broth from the stock -pot and also some white broth to moisten to half the height, being careful to renew the moistening at times so that the same quantity always remains. Smothering meat is to cook it slowly in a good stock without evaporation taking place, so that it cooks entirely and retains its natural flavor. Smothered meats must always be thoroughly cooked. Sauter. -Either in a sauteuse or in a pan; let the article cook rapidly on a quick fire tossing backward, forward, and frequently. We sauté potatoes , etc. Chickens or tenderloin are sautéd either in fat or oil on a moderate, but well regulated fire, turning the meats over when they are a fine color. (13). TO BREAD WITH BREAD CRUMBS, ENGLISH, FLOUR, MILANESE CRACKERS AND DEVILED (Pour Paner à la Panure, à l'Anglaise, à la Farine, à la Milanaise, à la Poudre de Cracker et à la Diable). Bread Crumbs. -We generally bread crumb all substances that are to be broiled or fried; if for broiling, they must first be coated with oil or melted butter, then laid in bread crumbs, or white breading, or else in bread raspings, or brown crumbs as explained below. For substances to be fried, such as croquettes, roll them first in white bread crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs strained through a Chinese strainer, or else put four eggs in a bowl with salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of oil, the same quantity of water, and strain all through a strainer. Drain quickly and roll them again in white bread crumbs, and smooth the surfaces either by rolling them on a table or else use the blade of a knife. To Bread Crumb, English Style. -Use only the yolk of the eggs instead of whole ones, mixing for each ten yolks, ten ounces of melted butter. White Bread Crumb. -Is used for breading meats, fish and all substances to be fried; this breading is prepared with slightly stale bread, cutting off the crusts, and grating or rubbing the crumbs in a cloth, then passing it through a sieve ( Fig. 95), it must be kept in a cool, dry place, spreading it out and stirring at times. Brown Bread Crumbs. -Is prepared with white bread dried in a heater and slightly browned in a very slack oven and afterward pounded and sifted through a sieve ( Fig. 95). To Bread with Flour. -Dip the articles such as fish, etc., in seasoned milk, then roll them in flour. For egg -plant, roll them merely in flour, omitting the milk. To Bread Crumb à la Milanaise. -Mix bread crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, half and half; dip the substances to be breaded, in melted butter, then lay them in the cheese and bread-crumb mixture, equalizing well the crumbs with the blade of a knife. To Bread with Powdered Crackers. -Dip the substance in beaten egg and its equal quantity of milk and then roll them in powdered crackers. To Bread à la Diable (deviled). -Season first the substances, then coat them over with mustard and dip them in beaten eggs and roll them lastly in bread-crumbs. (14). BREASTS OF PORK SALTED AND SMOKED, ENGLISH BACON (Lard de Poitrine Salé et Fumé. Petit salé à l'Anglaise). If needed for summer use, begin toward the end of March to dry- salt some breasts of pork for four days, then pack them tight in a salting tub and cover over with a thin layer of salt. Pour over them a freshly made, and highly salted brine, place on top a perforated cover, and lay over some heavy stones, so that the breasts are entirely submerged, and leave them in this state until needed, setting the tub in a cool well-aired place. This salt pork will keep well until the fall, although it will be much saltier than if prepared in the usual way. The usual way is to wash the breasts and put them in brine in a special salting tub without any other meat; use a fork to remove them from the brine, as the hands cause fermentation, and when the salt pork is needed for use, it can be unsalted in cold water for several hours or till sufficiently done. Bacon or smoked salt pork is prepared the same, putting it in a brine half as strong and keeping it in a 50 degree Fahrenheit temperature, but no more. Drain and dry in an aired place, then smoke for three days in the cold. (15). BRINE (Saumure). Brine is used for the preservation of meats and at the same time to give them the taste of any preferred aroma; for this reason we select among the many ways that are employed in different countries, one that we are sure will answer for our present needs. Boil in a large kettle twenty-five quarts of water, twenty-four pounds of salt, two pounds of saltpetre, three pounds of brown sugar and two ounces of carbonate of soda. Into a bag put a mixture weighing ten ounces, including thyme, bayleaf, sage, rosemary, juniper berries, savory, having more of each as desired, or less, if a certain taste displeases. After the salt is dissolved, leave the liquid to cool and then weigh it with a salt weight; with this it should be twelve degrees. To salt the meats, be careful to accomplish this when dry, by rubbing the meat with salt and a little saltpetre and then let rest for twenty-four hours before putting it in brine. Strain the brine and cover all the salted parts and leave it in a cool place during the operation. The time needed for salting is according to the size of the pieces. A ham weighing seventeen pounds requires twenty-five days; a breast weighing twelve pounds requires fifteen days; a shoulder weighing fifteen pounds requires twenty days. These indications are for meats to be eaten unsmoked. In case they should be smoked leave them ten days longer. Soak for twelve hours in cold water and then hang them in a smoking room or else in a big chimney, having them smoke slowly with oak shavings mixed with thyme, bayleaf, sage, etc. To Salt Hams. -Put into a large kettle one pound of salt, four ounces of saltpetre, six ounces of brown sugar, thyme, bayleaf, basil, two ounces of juniper berries, a quarter of an ounce of botanic calament, all tied up in a bag, and when the salt has dissolved by boiling, remove from the fire, let cool to settle the brine and then pour off the clear part. Burn some aromatic herbs in a barrel, put in the hams, pour the brine, already strained through a sieve, over, close the barrel and leave it for eighteen days; drain out the hams, hang them up for twelve days in a well-aired cool place, then hang them in the chimney for twenty days. Wrap them in sheets of paper and hang in a dry place. For Winter Hams. -These hams can only be kept during the winter. Have two hundred pounds of small corn-fed hams; rub over well with salt, then put them into a barrel and leave them for three days in a very cool place. Three days later put them into another barrel, cover over with salt brine, having sufficient salt to allow a potato to float on the surface; the hams must be entirely immersed in the brine, cover with a board and a weight atop. Twelve days after change them into another barrel and pour the brine again over, this is so that they change positions and salt easier. After another lapse of twelve days, drain and put them to soak in cold water for twelve hours; drain once more, leave to dry in the open air for eight days, then smoke them in a smoke house for two days with hickory wood. (16). CLARIFIED AND PURIFIED BUTTER (Beurre Clarifié et Épuré). Clarified. -To clarify butter it should first be melted so as to extract all the buttermilk, letting it cook slowly; skim and when well despumated from all its impurities and it begins to smoke then it is ready; strain it through a fine piece of linen and keep to use when needed. Purified. -Melt some butter in a deep saucepan, boil it for two or three minutes, remove, let stand to settle, then skim and pass it through a fine sieve pouring off the top only so to leave the sediment on the bottom. (17). BUTTER FOR BUTTERING MOLDS (Beurre Pour Beurrer les Moules). Melt one pound of veal kidney suet by chopping it up finely, then putting it into a saucepan with half a pint of water on a slow fire, stir occasionally to prevent its fastening on to the bottom of the saucepan and when the fat is limpid, add the same weight of fresh, saltless butter; stir until the butter and fat are perfectly clear. Cold Butter for Buttering Molds. -It suffices only to knead some un salted butter on the table to extract all its moisture and give it body, then put it into a cloth, sponge it off, put it in a pan in a warm temperature and work it until it becomes soft as cream. (18). TO PREPARE LIQUID CARAMEL (Caramel Liquide). Liquid caramel is most necessary; it is used for coloring broths, gravies and even sauces, when their tints are found to be too light, still caramel should be used with discretion, for it is apt to give a bitter taste to the colored liquids into which it is added. Put a few spoonfuls of powdered sugar into a copper pan, stir it over a slow fire, then remove it on to a slower one to let cook until it becomes quite brown, and the smoke arising from it is whitish, this is a sign that it is thoroughly done. Take the pan from off the fire, moisten the sugar proportionately with hot water, and allow the liquid to boil while stirring, and cook till the consistence of a light syrup is obtained. Caramel should be kept in a small, well-closed bottle, having a cork perforated lengthwise, so that when the bottle is turned over, the liquid can drop out slowly without it being necessary to uncork it. (19). TO CARVE ON THE TABLE (Pour Découper à Table). Carving should be done with ease and dexterity. It is a simple operation, yet to be a perfect carver one must have a few ideas of the natural construction of the various pieces to be cut up. The meat to be carved must be laid on a dish without any sauce or garnishing, so as to be able to turn it around to the most convenient position. The tools indispensable for carving consist of a solid two or three-pronged fork, a good, keen, sharp-bladed knife and a pair of carving scissors. It is essential to begin on the most practical side, and also to be able to distinguish all of the best parts so as to carve without deteriorating from their appearance or without injuring their gastronomical qualities. FIGS. 19 AND 20. An illustration of a Fork and a Knife Pointing in the same Direction. 8" Handwritten Inscription FIG. 21, FIG. 22. An illustration of Two Kitchen Utensils Similar to the Shape of Scissors. It is an easy study, but one that ought not to be neglected, for what embarrasses and confuses a carver is when he is unable to find the different joints, or else when he begins cutting a piece of meat against the grain. It is to facilitate this operation that we deem it necessary to give a few hints and suggestions, and as almost each piece is accompanied by a design, it will be easy to learn how to carve those meats usually served whole on the table. (20). FISH; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper le Poisson). A general rule almost always observed for cutting up fish at table, is to use only silver implements; this to be specially followed for boiled and braised fish. Fried fish is the only kind where knives are allowable. To carve boiled fish, use either a silver fish slice, spoon or fork. The lines traced on the back of the fish ( Fig. 23) denote in what direction it must be cut, observing, as the figure indicates, that it should be on the opposite side to the belly, for on this part the fleshiest meat is found. To cut up a bass, salmon, etc., or any fish of a long shape, first trace a line following the course of the bone, beginning at the head and finishing at the tail, then divide this back piece into slices and lay each one on a separate plate. All meats taken from the back and sides of a fish are fleshier and preferable to those found on the belly. FIG. 23. An illustration of a Large Fish with Different Dotted Lines on the Front Portion of the Body. Fish slice. -A name given to a certain utensil with which fish is cut at the table to serve it on plates. These slices are made of silver or silver-plate; the blade is broad and sharpened on one side, fastened to a handle. Smaller slicers are also placed on the table to facilitate serving flat cakes, flawns and tarts that are difficult to lift with a spoon or a knife. FIG. 24. An illustration of a Long Fork like Utensil, used for Slicing Fish. The Handle and The Front portion are Craved with Various Designs. (21). PARTRIDGES; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper les Perdreaux). There are various ways of carving partridges; when young, simply divide them in two length-wise; when large, either detach the hind part from the breast or divide each one in three on their length, that is, cut a part of the breast with the leg on, so to leave the upper breast adhere to a part of the carcass; then detach with a pair of carving scissors; this is demonstrated in the drawing. If the hind part is detached with the breast, then this should be divided into three parts and returned to their original position; in this manner it is difficult to perceive that the partridge has been cut, for it is given its natural form. Large partridges need simply cutting in four. FIG. 25, FIG. 26, FIG. 27, FIG. 28. An illustration of Different parts of a Partridge with Various Angles. (22). PHEASANT AND GROUSE OR PRAIRIE CHICKEN; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Faisan une Grouse ou un Tétras). A pheasant can be carved the same way as a large chicken ( Fig. 35), which means to cut it in five pieces, but should it be extra large two fillets can be taken from each side of the breast, leaving an upper or central part of the breast. The legs are generally dry and tough, yet should they have to be served, cut each one in two. Grouse or prairie chicken can be carved exactly the same. (23). ROAST BEEF; HOW TO CARVE RIBS (Pour Découper une Pièce de Côtes de Bœuf Rôti). FIG. 29. An illustration of a Large Portion of Roast Beef placed on a Large Tray along with a Carving Knife. American roast beef is taken from the ribs; sometimes seven ribs are served, but the piece containing only six is far more advantageous, while the four rib piece, cut from the short loin is better still. Roast beef must be carved on the table, or else on the dining-room sideboard, for when cut beforehand it becomes dry and loses the best part of its juices. Roast beef is to be cut in thin slices, leaving a small piece of fat adhering to each one; at once place them on hot plates and be careful to baste with a little of the gravy flowing from the meat on to the dish. (24). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Filet de Bœuf). Whether the tenderloin be roasted or braized, when cutting off slices for the guests, do not let them be too thick or too thin; remove half an inch of the sole from the tenderloin ( Fig. 30) and cut the meat into even thin slices, crosswise if the tenderloin be large; if thin, have the slices cut on the bias, but do not penetrate through the sole piece; pare the bottom free of fat. Serve these slices on very hot plates with a little of its gravy, independent of the accompanying sauce or garnishing, which must be served separately. FIG. 30. An illustrtion of a Tenderloin of Beef Ready to be Craved. (25). HOT HAM; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Jambon Chaud). Ham served hot is better when carved at the table, for it retains its essential juices. The most delicate part of a ham is the kernel, it being the fleshiest: this is to be cut in not too thick slices, leaving the fat adhering to the meat, then placed on hot plates; serve a good sauce separately in a sauceboat. When the ham is accompanied by a garnishing, it must also be served separately and offered to the guests. In order to have a ham prepared for handing round, it should first be cut up, then reconstructed the same as should a leg of mutton. FIG. 31. An illustration of a Large piece of Ham ready to be Craved. (26). LEG OF MUTTON; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper un Gigot de Mouton). If the leg be roasted, carve it at the table or in the dining-room. It must be served on a dish without gravy, sauce or garnishing. Seize the end bone of the leg, having the kernel uppermost, for this is to be cut first, it being the fleshiest and the best part of the leg. The slices must be broad and thin, to be served on very hot plates, each one accompanied by a little of the good gravy flowing from the meat. Should the leg have a garnishing this must be served apart. FIG. 32. An illustration of a Leg of Mutton with Carving Lines shown. Lamb is carved the same way. The bone end of the leg to be trimmed with a specially made handle, or else a fancy favor frill. When the leg is to be presented at the table, it should be previously carved and reconstructed to its original shape. (27). SADDLE OF MUTTON, SADDLE OF LAMB, AND SADDLE OF VENISON, ROASTED; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Selle de Mouton, d'Agneau, et de Chevreuil Rôti). The dish containing these roasts must be placed on the table before the person who is to carve; the loin end to be turned to the left, for from this end is the saddle begun. There are two ways of carving the roasted saddle; the first way is to cut the slices on the length of the meat, slightly bias; see braized saddle, Fig. 33. They to be neither too long nor too thin. For the second way, the slices are cut the entire length of the meat, but in every case serve on very hot plates, adding a little of the good gravy from the meat and serving another gravy separetly in a sauceboat. (28). BRAIZED SADDLE OF MUTTON; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Selle de Mouton Braisée). To have a braized saddle of mutton carved on the table, it should be placed on a hot dish without any gravy or garnishing; first make two incisions, one on each side, just between the fat of the flank or the kernel, then cut the large fillets across in rather thick slices; avoid having too much fat on any of them. A saddle of mutton can be carved in the kitchen without deteriorating from its good qualities; in this case, remove the fillets entirely, pare free of all fat and cut them across in half inch thick slices; return them to their original position, and when serving, hand around at the same time, both garnishing and a sauceboatful of gravy or sauce. FIG. 33. An illustration of a Braised Saddle of Mutton with Craving lines shown on one part of the Meat. (29). LOIN AND KERNEL OF VEAL; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Longe ou une Noix de Veau). Before carving a loin of veal, first detach the tenderloin and kidney; cut the loin into cross-wise slices, not too thin, and place each one on a hot plate, adding a slice of the kidney or minion fillet, also a little good gravy or any sauce accompanying this remove, only serving it separately. On Fig. 327 will be found a larded kernel of veal, served as an entrée on a round dish. In order to cut the kernel, it requires to be held firmly by the fork on the udder side, enabling the larded meat to be cut in not too thick slices. Serve on hot plates with a little gravy, independent of the sauce or garnishing that accompanies it. (30). GOOSE OR DUCK; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Oie ou un Canard). Geese and ducks are carved the same as other poultry; when young, their legs can be served, but if large and older it were better to leave them undetached on the carcass. To carve a goose with ease, the breast must be turned toward the carver, as shown in Fig. 34. The meats of each side of the breast are to be cut in not too thin fillets and immediately placed on hot plates, then basted over with a little good gravy. When the geese are stuffed, add to each plateful a small piece of the dressing. If serving the legs of a young goose or duck it is obligatory, first to detach them from the carcass and divide in medium-sized pieces with the carving scissors. Large tame ducks are carved the same as geese, and young ducklings can be separated in four parts. The breast alone of wild ducks is used, lifting one fillet from off each side or both fillets may be divided lengthwise in two; serve these on a little good gravy taken from the carcasses, after breaking them up and pressing out all the juice; heat this gravy slightly with lemon juice, salt, mignonette and finely chopped blanched shallot. FIG. 34. An illustration of a Goose with craving Lines drawn on it. (31). PIGEONS; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper des Pigeons). Young pigeons are served whole or simply cut lengthwise in two; when very large, separate the hind part from the breast part and make two pieces of each of these. (32). A PULLET OR CAPON; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Poularde ou un Chapon). A large piece of poultry that requires to be carved at table, calls for the greatest care in order to have all the pieces neat, even and of a proper size, neither too large nor too small. A pair of carving scissors will be found indispensable. To proceed with ease have the pieces laid on a dish in front of the carver; should the pinions be left on the wings, cut them off with the scissors, then cut from the breast one small slice, taking the minion fillet along; from the remainder of the breast cut another pretty slice through the entire length. If the breast of the chicken be very large cut from it another slice without encroaching on the top part of the breast; after one side is finished cut the other without changing its position and as soon as the fillets are all removed, detach the thighs from the carcass by disjointing them, but first cut away the skin from the carcass just where the thigh begins; in this way it can be lifted off with a fork assisting with the blade of a knife. As soon as one thigh is detached, separate the leg at the knee bone with the scissors and divide the thigh in two, either across or on the length. FIG. 35, FIG. 36, FIG. 37. An illustraion of a Pullet from Different angles. Shown with Carving Lines. The carcass can also be divided transversely in two or three pieces. The whole operation must be dexterous and speedy as all eyes are apt to be watching the carver, therefore he must not hesitate, but proceed bravely to the end. When a medium-sized fowl is to be carved, it can first be divided into four parts, detaching the legs from the carcass, then the breasts without making any upper breast. With these four parts eight pieces can be secured, two from each leg and two from each breast, cutting these on their length according to the lines marked in the figures. (33). ROAST TURKEY; HOW TO CARVE (Pour Découper une Dinde Rôtie). To be able to carve a turkey at table it requires a certain amount of self-possession, for they are frequently very fat, and, therefore, more difficult to manipulate than a pullet. Unless it cannot be avoided, the legs of a roast turkey should not be detached, serving only the breast part; this is done in two distinct ways: the first consists of cutting the breast pieces in crosswise slices slightly on the bias as shown in the figure; the second by cutting the fillets lengthwise from the breasts without having any upper breast part; in either case it is proper before beginning to detach the wings from both sides with a part of the breast adhering. When the thighs are wanted, detach them one after the other; clip off the drum sticks at the knee joint and then divide the second joint meats in pieces, leaving the drum stick whole. The gravy that is to be served with a roast turkey should always be in a separate sauceboat. FIG. 38. An illustration of a Large Roast Turkey, shown with Carving Lins. (34). CHOPPED PARSLEY, TRUFFLES, ONIONS, SHALLOTS, MUSHROOMS, TONGUE AND CORAL (Pour Hacher le Persil, les Truffes, les Oignons, les Échalotes, les Champignons, la Langue et le Corail). For Chopped Parsley see No. 123 For Truffles. -Slice them and wipe off all the adhering moisture, then chop them up fine, spread them on a tin sheet covered with a sheet of paper, dry in the air and keep them in a cool place till needed. For Onions. -Cut them in two, suppress the end stalk, and slice them perpendicularly, then cut them horizontally into squares more or less large; they may afterward be chopped up so as to loosen them, and have them finer; wash them in cold water, drain on a cloth to extract all the liquid; proceed the same for shallots, without cutting them in two and put them on a plate in a cool place. For Mushrooms. -If they are already cooked, drain them well, slice, then chop them up; if raw, peel off the skin, wash them nicely, cut in squares, then chop; use them immediately. For Red Beef Tongue. -Use only the thin end of the tongue, slice, chop and lay it on a tin sheet covered with a sheet of paper, expose them to a draught to dry, chop once more until very fine, then pass them through a sieve, and keep in a cool place till needed. For Lobster Coral. -Take out the red part found inside of a boiled lobster, wash it nicely, changing the water frequently, dry it in the air, then chop it up very fine to pass through a sieve ( Fig. 96); spread it on a tin sheet over a sheet of paper, dry it in the air, and keep it for use in a cool place. (35). TO COAT JELLY MOLDS AND MOLD JELLIES (Pour Chemiser les Moules à Gelée et Mouler les Gelées). If the mold need be only lightly coated, it is sufficient just to cool it on ice, then pour into it the cold liquid jelly and move it around so that it reaches all the sides; put the mold back on to the ice, and begin the operation again a quarter of an hour later, but should the coating of jelly be required thick, then glue over the top of the mold a heavy paper, and when the gum is dry, cut a ring in the surface of the paper with the tip of a small knife, leaving all around a margin a quarter of an inch, then pour some jelly into the mold, and turn it round on the ice inclining it in such a way that the coat acquires the necessary thickness on all its sides. FIG. 39. An illustration of a Round Jelly Mold filled wuth Nuts. To Mold Jellies. -Put some ice into a small vessel, add its equal quantity of water, and set it in a cylindrical fancy mold: fill this up with some cold liquid jelly, lay on top and half an inch higher than the mold a tin sheet or plate, cover this with broken ice without any salt and after the jelly is thoroughly cold and firm, unmold it. In order to accomplish this, dip the mold quickly into hot water at one hundred and fifteen to one hundred and twenty degrees Fahrenheit; wipe it briskly and overturn it on to a cold dish as soon as the jelly detaches, and then remove the mold. (36). TO PREPARE COCOANUT (Préparation de la Noix de Coco). Break a cocoanut across in two, exactly in the center; slip the blade of a thin round-tipped knife between the nut and the shell, push it in with the right hand and turn the cocoa with the left; detach and take out the entire half nut; remove the outer skin covering the nut with a vegetable knife ( Fig. 156), and when it is all peeled, throw the nut into cold water; drain and scrape it on a coarse grater. Use a part of it for roasting by putting the grated nut on a sheet of paper into a moderate oven and keep the remainder into a stone jar in the ice-box mixing it with an equal weight of sugar. (37). VEGETABLE COLORS (Couleurs Végétales). Spinach green is frequently used for coloring purées, soups, butters, sauces and sugar. It is the healthiest coloring matter, and if possible use no other. Spinach green is prepared with very green, fresh spinach, well washed, pounded in a mortar and when well reduced to a paste, extract all the juice through a coarse cloth, and place this in an untinned copper sugar pan, and heat it till it decomposes, then pour it over a fine sieve so the pulp or coloring matter remains on top; the strained liquid is colorless and useless. For yellow, use a decoction of saffron or dandelion flowers; for red, employed for coloring bisques, orchanet dissolved in butter is used. The roucou annotto also gives a yellowish red and is much used. Vegetable colors, and clarified carmine,Breton Landrin, are those mostly employed. Breton Landrin green is beautiful for coloring sugars cooked to crack, as it is not detrimental to its transparency. Colorings: Carmine and Cochineal Red. -Take two ounces of No. 42 carmine, broken in pieces; wet with a little cold water; crush in a small mortar and dilute with a little twenty-five degree syrup. Besides this, boil two quarts of syrup also to twenty-five degrees, mix in the carmine, boil up once, strain through a napkin and leave to cool, then add a few coffeespoonfuls of liquid ammonia and pour into bottles. For Red Cochineal. -Finely pound five ounces of fine cochineal; place it in a copper pan and moisten with a quart of water, adding three ounces of cream of tartar, three ounces of alum and six ounces of sugar; set the pan on the fire and let the liquid reduce to half; now put in two gills of spirit of wine; boil up once, strain through a napkin and pour into bottles. (38). COURT-BOUILLON, PLAIN. (Court-Bouillon, Simple). Plain court-bouillon is used for cooking large fishes, such as salmon, halibut, bass and lobsters. This court-bouillon is prepared with vinegar, roots and sliced onions, a large bunch of parsley, salt and water. If the fish has to be plunged into boiling water, cook the court-bouillon for seven or eight minutes previous to putting it in, and if on the contrary, then pour the liquid over the fish, and bring it to a boil. (39). COURT BOUILLON WITH WINE (Court Bouillon au Vin). The court bouillon is a most necessary auxiliary in all kitchens, where it plays an important part; it is prepared fresh every day, and special care is taken to have it good, for in it the principal fishes are cooked, and with it the sauce Normande is made, so useful for hurried work. First prepare a broth with the heads of large, fresh fish, some roots, onions, a bunch of parsley and a little salt; let it boil very slowly for half an hour, then strain and skim off the fat, and leave it to settle until clear. From the bones and heads of bass, sheepshead, blackfish, etc., the best fish stock is obtained. Cook a mirepoix composed of sliced roots, shallots and onions, add to it the fragments of fish as explained above and cook these together for a few moments on a good fire; moisten with two or three gills of white wine and let it fall to a glaze over a brisk fire; moisten it again at once with two gills of fish broth and also let this fall to a glaze, then remoisten to their height with good fish broth and a little white wine, add a bunch of aromatic herbs, a bunch of parsley, and some fresh mushroom peelings, boil the liquid while skimming and set it on one side of the range to despumate for a quarter of an hour, skimming it carefully. Strain the stock through a sieve, let it settle, and pour off the top into a glazed vessel, and if it be not succulent enough, then reduce it again; keep it in a cool place. This stock may be easily kept from one day to another, if care be taken to keep the vessel and its contents incrusted on ice. This court bouillon may also be moistened with red wine; in either case, it must be prepared with the greatest care possible. (40). ALMOND CREAM (Crème d'Amandes). Pound one pound of almonds with one pound of loaf sugar, slowly adding four small eggs and some orange flower water. When the almonds have become a fine paste, take them from the mortar and transfer to a vessel, incorporating in six eggs, one at the time and one pound of fresh butter softened and divided in small pats. (41). ENGLISH CREAM WITH COFFEE (Crème Anglaise au Café). Boil a quart of milk, add to it four ounces of freshly roasted coffee beans , cover the saucepan and leave to infuse for half an hour. Beat eight egg-yolks with half a pound of sugar, dilute with the boiling coffee milk strained through a fine colander; stand the saucepan on a slow fire, stir the cream until it becomes quite thick, without allowing it to boil, then take it off, strain through a sieve and pour it into a vessel, stir frequently till cold. (42). ENGLISH CREAM WITH VANILLA, LEMON OR ORANGE ZEST (Crème Anglaise à la Vanille ou aux Zestes de Citron ou d'Orange). Beat in a saucepan half a pound of sugar with ten raw egg-yolks; mingle both well together and dilute with a quart of boiling milk, having had half a vanilla stick broken in pieces infused therein. Cook the cream on a moderate fire, stirring with a spoon, or whisk and thicken without boiling; strain this through a fine sieve into a vessel and let cool, stirring it occasionally until this occurs. This cream can be flavored with lemon or orange peel instead of vanilla. (43). FRANGIPANE CREAM WITH CHOCOLATE, OR WITH MARROW (Crème Frangipane au Chocolat, ou à la Moelle). Chocolate. -Add to some vanilla frangipane cream as described below, four ounces of chocolate melted in a slack oven and diluted a little at the time with cream. Marrow. -Soak in fresh water four ounces of marrow cut in quarter inch pieces, then melt in a bain-marie. Into a saucepan put three ounces of sugar, six ounces of flour, four whole eggs and six yolks; stir well with a spoon and dilute with a quart of boiling milk. Pass this through a sieve into another saucepan, add an ounce of butter and cook, being careful that the cream contains no lumps; when well thickened remove from the fire; mix in a few spoonfuls of chopped almonds and the melted marrow. (44). FRANGIPANE CREAM WITH VANILLA OR ALMONDS (Frangipane Vanille ou Amandes). Place in a vessel six ounces of flour, six egg-yolks, two whole eggs, three ounces of sugar and a little salt; dilute with six gills of milk. Whip well the preparation, pass it through a fine strainer into a saucepan and add to it three ounces of butter and half a vanilla bean; stir, placing the saucepan on the fire until the cream becomes consistent, then remove and beat it firmly off the range; put it back on the fire to cook for a few moments, suppress the vanilla if for almond frangipane, and mix in four ounces of pounded almonds and four ounces of nut butter. (45). MOCHA CREAM (Crème Moka). Put into a tinned basin sixteen egg-yolks and one pound of sugar; beat and dilute with a pint of very strong coffee and a pint of boiling milk. Set the basin on the fire, stir with a small whip, pressing it against the bottom, bring the liquid to a boil, without allowing it actually to boil, then remove from off the fire, let stand till cold. Put sixteen ounces of butter in a vessel, heat it lightly and work it well to a cream, then pour it into the preparation and stir the whole vigorously with a whip. (46). PASTRY CREAM WITH VANILLA (Crème Pâtissière à la Vanille). Place ten egg-yolks in a tinned basin, adding half a pound of sugar and an ounce of fecula or corn starch; mix the ingredients well together and dilute with a quart of boiling milk, having had half a vanilla stick infused therein. Stand it on the fire and stir continually until it thickens and is ready to boil, then pour into a vessel to use when needed. (47). PISTACHIO CREAM OR NUT CREAM (Crème aux Pistaches ou aux Noisettes). Place eight egg-yolks in a bowl with one pound of sugar, beat well together and dilute with a pint of boiling milk; thicken this cream on the fire without allowing it to boil and as soon as it is cooked, take it off and add half a pound of pistachios pounded with orange flower water, vegetal green and kirsch, or else half a pound of roasted filberts pounded with a little water and maraschino. Incorporate some cream into either of these when nearly cold; also a pound of very good, fresh, un salted butter; allow to cool. (48). QUILLET CREAM (Crème à la Quillet). Pour one pint of thirty-two degrees hot syrup into a small tin basin, adding sixteen egg-yolks, one vanilla bean and two gills of orgeat syrup; set the basin on the fire and stir continuously until the preparation almost comes to a boil, then take it off and when it has lost its greatest heat, incorporate in with a whip one pound of un salted butter of the very finest quality procurable, dividing it into small pats. (49). ST. HONORÉ CREAM (Crème St. Honoré). Into a saucepan put ten egg-yolks and half a pound of sugar, one ounce of common flour and one ounce of rice flour; dilute with a pint of boiling milk into which half a vanilla stick has been infused. Put the saucepan on the fire and stir incessantly till the ingredients become consistent and are about to boil, then suppress the vanilla. Have twelve egg-whites already beaten to a stiff froth, incorporate them into the cream, beating it briskly with a spoon. (50). WHIPPED CREAM OR CHANTILLY CREAM (Crème Fouettée ou Crème à la Chantilly). To obtain the very best result the cream must be the finest procurable and exceedingly thick. Pour it into a tinned basin, beat it with a tinned wire whip and if the cream be good it will rise in a few moments to a thick froth; should it be needed for meringue, after whipping it thoroughly add half a pound of powdered sugar for each quart of the unwhipped cream. For mousselines, after the cream is firmly whipped and not sweetened lay it on a hair sieve and leave it drain for one hour before using. After the cream is whipped it can be flavored by adding a tablespoonful of essence of coffee or one ounce of grated and sifted chocolate for every quart of cream. To flavor with vanilla add to the sugar one tablespoonful of vanilla sugar. (51). TO PREPARE CROûTONS FOR SOUPS, ROASTS, VEGETABLES, EGGS, ETC. (Pour Préparer les Croûtons Pour les Soupes, Rôtis, Légumes, Œufs, etc.). Cut the croûtons from the crumb of a stale loaf of bread; for entrées cut them half heart -shaped, three inches long by two and a half wide, and a quarter of an inch thick (see Fig. 40.); fry them in butter, and as soon as one side is browned, turn them over, and repeat until they have attained a fine color on both sides. FIG.40. An illustration of a Piece of Bread Cut in a Triangular Shape. For Vegetables, Scrambled Eggs, Spinach, Chiccory, etc. -Cut them triangle shaped, one and a quarter inches on the sides, by one quarter of an inch thick; fry them in butter, browning them nicely on both sides. For Soups. -Serve croûtons three-sixteenths to four-sixteenths square or round shaped, three quarters of an inch in diameter, by one-eighth in thickness; either of these must be fried a fine color in butter, but do not allow them to get too dry. In order to obtain fine croûtons, they must be fried in clarified butter, lard or oil, and in a sautoir, but not in the frying fat. FIG. 41. An illustration of a Crust of an Oblong Shape. For Roast Game, Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse and Quail, have oblong shaped croûtons; trim the edges and then cut off a quarter of an inch of the four corners; pass the knife all around the croûtons a quarter of an inch from the edge, fry and cut away the centers, scoop out the crumb from this space, and lay them under the game; reed-birds or larks must be laid on oblong croûtons sufficiently long to hold two or more birds, but do not scoop these out. For Snipe, Woodcock or Plovers, have wider, oblong crusts ( Fig. 41); dig out the crumb in the center to hold the bird and scoop out smaller hollows on each side, which should be garnished with a forcemeat, made of chopped up chicken livers and shallots, fried in scraped lard; mix some fine herbs with the livers. Epicures sometimes have the chopped intestines added to the forcemeat. (52). TO PREPARE HOLLOW CRUSTS (Pour Préparer les Croûtes Creuses). Hollowed out crusts are used for serving small garnishings composed of purées, game fillets, and also boned small birds, such as larks and reed-birds; they are also employed to serve with poached eggs, after filling the hollow space with some garnishing. Hollow crusts are made of bread crumb, timbale paste or puff paste. FIG. 42, FIG. 43, FIG. 44, FIG. 44a. An illustration of Different Molds to Make Hollow Crusts. Bread Crumb Crusts are cut oval and half heart shaped ( Figs. 42 and 43); they are two inches long and three quarters of an inch thick; make incisions on one side near the edge, using for this a small knife; brown both sides in a sautoir with clarified butter, then drain them to open and scoop out the crumb. Crusts made of Timbale Paste are formed from an oval layer of paste, three-sixteenths of an inch thick; they are shaped in unbuttered tin rings, half an inch high, either oval or round, plain or channelled ( Figs. 44 and 45); the paste is cut flush with the top of the ring, the ring is now removed and the outside edge of the paste is pinched prettily, the top also to form the crest; let dry for a few minutes; they are now to be placed in larger buttered rings, or surrounded with bands of buttered paper to support the paste while cooking; line the inside with buttered paper and fill with raw rice; cook in a moderate oven; when done remove from the rings, empty out the rice, brush the crusts with an egg -wash and put in the oven to color nicely. FIG. 45. An illustration of Different Molds used in Making a Hollow Crust. To Make puff paste Crusts Plain or with Fluted Cutter. -Cut the paste round or oval shaped in any desired size, arrange them on a moist baking sheet, a short distance apart, and prick them; moisten the edges with a brush and apply around this a band of the same paste three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness by five-sixteenths of an inch in width; fasten the ends of the band together, egg the surface and bake these crusts in a moderate oven the same as small bouchées. (53). EGGING AND MOISTENING (Darer et Mouiller). Egging With Whole Eggs. -Beat the eggs with half as much water and run them through a sieve. Egg-yolks Alone. -Stir the yolks with the same volume of water and strain. With Milk. -Mix as much milk as yolks, beat well together and strain. Moistening. -Moisten lightly with water, baking sheets or else flats of paste on which another is to be laid in order to fasten the two together. For both egging and moistening use a feather or very soft hair brush ( Fig. 184). (54). TO BEAT UP THE WHITE OF EGGS (Pour Fouetter les Blancs d'Œufs). Although the eggs intended for beating up the white should be perfectly fresh, still they must not be newly laid, for when these are used they are liable to become a greenish color, while baking. Procure an egg -beater or a whip made for this purpose, and a small untinned basin, separate most carefully the yolks from the whites, and put these into the basin with a very little salt, then begin to whip, slowly at the beginning but proceed gradually to increase the velocity of the motion as the volume increases so as to allow them to absorb all the air possible, which gives them their consistency. Should the whites threaten to turn, they must be whipped again until smooth, adding to them a handful of powdered sugar or a few drops of citric acid. FIG. 46. An illustration of a Tin Basin and an Egg Whisk. (55). FAT PREPARED FOR FRYING (Graisse Préparée Pour la Friture). The preference is generally given to beef kidney suet; cut it in half inch pieces and place these in an untinned iron pan with one gill of water for every pound of fat; cook on a slow fire stirring carefully from time to time so that it cannot adhere to the bottom. When very clear and it ceases to froth it is a sign that it is done, then strain through a sieve or cloth. (56). FAT FOR SOCLES AND FLOWERS (Graisse Pour Socles et pour les Fleurs). Fat for Socles. -Remove the skin and all the membranes from twenty pounds of mutton kidney suet, cut it up in half inch squares, and put this grease into twenty-five quarts of cold water with one pound of carbonate of soda, wash well the fat, change the water frequently, drain, then melt it on a slow fire, being careful to stir it so that it does not adhere to the bottom of the pan, nor brown in the slightest, add to it eight ounces of Siam benzoin and as soon as it is thoroughly rendered out, mix in the same quantity of lard, strain through a fine towel, and put it aside to cool slightly; then add a little ultra-marine blue. Stir with a whisk until cool, and having body enough to be worked: fasten a mandrel on a round or oval board, begin working at the bottom of the foundation with a profile, previously soaked in cold water and kept wet, and when the base is very firm, continue coating the mandrel with the fat, and profiling it until the whole socle is finished. Decorate with natural or grease flowers as below forming a wreath around the top of the mandrel, or if preferred festoon it, leaving a few inches of the decoration fall in scallops gracefully around. To Make Grease Flowers. -Have half as much fat prepared for socles as virgin wax, melting both together; color them in various colors while the fat is still hot and place in vessels keeping each color separate; have for instance: white, pink, red, green, brown, etc., let cool. Twelve hours later unmold the fat on to a wet napkin and scrape into fine shavings with a strong knife, then gather all of these in a damp cloth so as to soften and have it get smooth by kneading it till it becomes ductile as clay; roll into small balls and place these between two wet cloths; rub the top of each ball with a piece of smooth ice until it is very thin so that it resembles the petal of a real flower for example, to make a rose arrange some pink fat around a small stick to imitate the center of the flower, fasten on the petals all around as quickly as they are prepared and when there are sufficient, pull out the stick and begin another until enough flowers are obtained. Fasten them on to the upper border of a socle. This same grease can be used for modeling. (57). TO SCALE AND CLEAN FISH; TO SKIN EELS (Pour Écailler le Poisson, le Nettoyer et Dépouiller les Anguilles). For English Soles. -Remove the black skin, starting at the tail with a knife, then pulling it off. If trout be required for boiling, they must be cooked with the scales on. German carp should not be scaled. For Salmon, Turbot, Bass or Mullets. -Scrape the outside with a strong knife in order to remove the scales. All fish must be emptied either by the gills or by an opening made in the belly; cut away the fins with a pair of strong scissors. To Skin Eels. -They must be hung up by the head on a hook, remove a little piece of the skin all around below the fins so as to be able to catch hold of it, then grasp it with a cloth, and pull it down the whole length of the body, turning it inside out. Shave the spinal bone with a sharp knife, and in a contrary direction from the bone, or else the entire bone may be removed by detaching it from the flesh, beginning at the extreme thin end of the tail, and pulling it out entirely, the same for the ventral. (58). FONDANT (Fondant). Put into a small untinned copper basin two pounds of loaf sugar, moisten it with sufficient water to melt it, about one pint, and put the basin on a good fire to bring the sugar to a boil; skim it carefully and so long as the impurities rise to the surface and continue boiling till the sugar is cooked to the degree of ball; then pour it on to a marble table or slab and keep it in position by four bars of iron, an inch square, and the length needed; when it is thoroughly cold work it with a spatula until it becomes a white and creamy paste; set it in an earthen vessel, and keep it in a cool place to use when needed. This fondant can be flavored and colored according to taste. (59). FORCEMEATS; REMARKS ON (Observations sur les Farces). Forcemeats are indispensable for performing fine work and are liked by good livers; they are principally used for hors-d'œuvre, garnishings, removes and entrées; for stuffing breasts or shoulders of veal, poultry, game and fish. They are also necessary to form borders, for holding the garnishing and for large timbales; they must always be prepared in advance with the very freshest meats, otherwise they are likely to be of little good and liable to spoil, this being of the greatest importance to observe, and be sure to keep them on ice until needed. Always be careful when composing a menu, not to have too many dishes containing forcemeats, for they will detract from the simplicity and natural plainness of a dinner. (60). TO PREPARE AND MAKE FORCEMEATS AND TO RECTIFY THEM (Pour Préparer et Faire les Farces et les Rectifier). FIG. 47. An illustration of a Machine to Remove Nerves. FIG. 48. An illustration of a Round Shaped Metal Sieve. Chicken. -Use only the lean and well pared meats of poultry or game, some panada, fresh butter, or cooked and cold veal udder, raw egg-yolks or else the whites, or sometimes whole eggs, salt and spices, also cold sauces or else raw cream. Pass the meat once or twice through a machine to remove the nerves ( Fig. 47); afterward pound it to a pulp so it can readily pass through a metal sieve fitting on to the mortar ( Fig. 48); pound the meat once more, then add the panada, the butter or udder, continuing to pound all the time, and then add the eggs singly without ceasing to pound and the seasonings; pass through a strong hair sieve. Put this into a thin tin vessel, set it on ice and stir for a few moments with a spoon in order to have it perfectly smooth, keep in a cool place until needed. Game. -To make game quenelle forcemeat, proceed the same as for the chicken; to have it delicate, use brown sauce or melted meat glaze, and pass the meat once more after all the ingredients are mixed in. For this it requires a strong hair sieve, or one of fine tinned wire; stand this sieve on a round dish, slightly larger than itself, so it can receive the forcemeat as it falls through; put only a small quantity on the sieve at the time; press it forcibly with a large wooden spoon to have it pass through rapidly, and when all is finished, place it in a tin vessel and stir it for a few moments with a spoon to render it smooth and keep it in a cool place until needed. To Rectify Forcemeats. -Try a little piece, formed into a half inch ball, in boiling water or in the oven, and if too consistent add some cream or velonté, for white forcemeats, and espagnole or melted glaze for brown game. If too weak, a little pounded panada is to be added, mixing it in gradually with some egg-yolks, whites or whole eggs. FIG. 49. An illustration of a Mortar with a Sieve and a Wooden Stick with Two Rounded Ends. (61). TO PREPARE BREAD STUFFING, AMERICAN AND ENGLISH STYLE {Pour Préparer la Farce au Pain à l'Américaine et à l'Anglaise). Bread stuffing is used to stuff poultry and game and sometimes fish. Soak in water or milk a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, squeeze out all the liquid and put the bread into a saucepan; beat it up with a spoon and add to it a little boiled milk or broth, so as to form a paste the same as for a panada, remove it from the fire and set it aside to cool, season and mix in five or six tablespoonfuls of chopped-up onions, either raw or cooked in butter, some chopped parsley and three or four raw egg-yolks. Bread stuffing may also be prepared without cooking, only mixing white bread-crumbs with butter or chopped suet, raw egg-yolks, parsley and chopped onions. American Style. -Steep half a pound of bread-crumbs in milk and when well soaked extract all the liquid; put it over a slow fire in a saucepan and stir up with a spoon, to have it dry; add two ounces of onions, cut in dice, and fried colorless in butter, and when the stuffing is cold, add four ounces either of butter or beef marrow chopped fine, salt, pepper, sage, thyme, parsley, minced green celery leaves and four raw egg-yolks. English. -Have half a pound of bread-crumbs steeped in white broth and all the liquid extracted; put it on the fire to dry, then add four ounces of beef suet well skinned and chopped up fine; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and add three ounces of chopped onions fried and lightly colored, one whole egg and four raw egg-yolks. (62). CHICKEN OR GAME FORCEMEAT WITHOUT PANADA (Farce de Volaille ou de Gibier Sans Panade). Ingredients. -One pound of breast of chicken or game, raw and free of sinews; eight egg-yolks, half a pound of butter, salt, red pepper, nutmeg and two gills of well reduced velouté (No. 415) . Pass twice through the machine ( Fig. 47). One pound of raw and nerveless chicken or game fillets, or else chop the pieces very fine and pound them to reduce to a fine paste; rub this through a round quenelle sieve ( Fig. 142). Incorporate into it eight egg-yolks one by one, also half a pound of butter divided into small pieces; season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, and add two gills of well reduced velouté (No. 415) . Work the forcemeat well in a mortar, so that it acquires a good consistence; test it and if necessary to rectify (see No. 60) . This forcemeat is used to make either red, white or green quenelles. (63). FORCEMEAT OF CHICKEN, FISH OR GAME WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND BUTTER (Farce de Volaille, Poisson ou Gibier avec Crème Fouettée et Beurre). Pound half a pound of chicken fillets after passing them twice through the machine ( Fig. 47), then press this pulp through a sieve and return it to the mortar to pound once more, mixing in with it little by little, five ounces of butter, one whole egg and four yolks, or instead of the egg and yolks substitute four egg-whites. Season with salt, nutmeg and red pepper, then take out the forcemeat and set it into a thin metal vessel; lay this on the ice, beat up the forcemeat well for a few minutes, incorporating slowly into it the volume of one pint of very firm, well drained whipped cream, one pint of cream before being whipped will produce about three pints after being whipped; use the same preparation for forcemeats of game and fish, increasing or decreasing the panada and eggs according to the consistency of the viands employed. (64). CHICKEN LIVER, FINE BAKING FORCEMEAT (Farce à Gratin de Foies de Volaille Fine). Heat four ounces of grated lard, add to it one pound of sautéd cold chicken livers; pound well half a pound of bread-crumb panada (No. 121) , add the livers a little at the time, pounding continually, fry in butter one tablespoonful of shallots, adding to them two tablespoonfuls of mushrooms, half a tablespoonful of truffles, both chopped, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; when all these ingredients have fried lightly add to them two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) ; let get slightly cold, then stir in one whole egg and three yolks; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add the chicken livers, rub all forcibly through a sieve and mix this preparation with one pound of quenelle forcemeat. (65). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR CHICKEN GALANTINES (Farce de Hachis pour Galantines de Volaille). To prepare chopped farces or sausage-meat only lean meats without any skin or nerves are to be used, and fresh fat pork. Chop up both meat and pork and in some special cases they require to be pounded after being chopped. Farce or chopped meats for galantines of poultry is prepared with one pound of chicken or other poultry meat, and one pound of fat pork. The chicken may be replaced by lean veal, or half pork and half veal; chop all up very fine, and season with three quarters to one ounce of spiced salt (No. 168); pound well for a few minutes, then add two whole eggs, and one gill of water or cream; chopped truffles or cooked fine herbs may also be added if desired. (66). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR GAME GALANTINES (Farce de Hachis pour Galantines de Gibier). This is prepared with half game meat, either from the shoulder or thighs of hare or young rabbits, or the thighs of partridges or pheasants, and half fat pork, having a pound of each. Season with an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168) . When it is well chopped mix in with it half a pound of foies gras. Strain galantine farces, but when the galantine farces of game or poultry are well chopped this is rarely required. (67). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR GAME PIE (Farce de Hachis pour Pâté de Gibier). Prepare a pound of lean veal or pork forcemeat without nerves or skin, a pound of fat pork, and season with salt, white pepper and red pepper; mince finely one ounce of onions and two ounces of carrots; fry them both in butter with thyme and bayleaf, adding the parings and carcasses of some game; moisten with a pint of white wine, and reduce till dry, then moisten once more with a pint of broth and reduce again till dry; now take out the bones, thyme and bayleaf, and pound up all the meat as well as the vegetables; rub this through a sieve and mix it in with the farce. (68). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR ORDINARY SAUSAGES (Farce de Hachis pour Saucisses Ordinaires). Prepare a pound of lean, nerveless pork-meat and a pound of fat from the pig's throat; chop them up very fine, and season with three-quarters of an ounce of salt, black pepper and red pepper; when thoroughly chopped and a compact paste is formed, then mix in half a gill of water. Another Way. -Remove the sinews from four pounds of lean fresh pork, taken from the shoulder or neck; add the same weight of not too mellow fat, from under the chine; chop together, season with a third of an ounce of salt for each pound, black pepper and red pepper to taste. (69). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOR COUNTRY SAUSAGES WITH SAGE (Farce de Hachis pour Saucisses de Campagne à la Sauge). Have three pounds of corn-fed lean pork, free of all its sinews, and one pound of fat pork; cut them both into inch squares, then chop them up finely together, and season with an ounce of salt and a teaspoonful of ground black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of powdered sage, the sixth part of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a bit of powdered saltpetre and a gill of water. Work well together so as to mix thoroughly. (70). COOKED CHOPPED FORCEMEAT WITH CHESTNUTS, AND WITH CHESTNUTS AND TRUFFLES (Farce Cuite de Hachis aux Marrons et aux Marrons et Truffes). For each pound of forcemeat, chop up one medium shallot; fry it colorless in butter, then add to it one pound of chopped ordinary sausage-meat (No. 68); let it cook for a few minutes, and add four ounces of chopped chicken liver for every pound of the sausage-meat; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, and let cook for a few minutes longer, then add some chopped parsley and two pounds of cooked whole chestnuts. With Chestnuts and Truffles. -Mix one-half truffles and one-half chestnuts with this forcemeat. (70). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT WTIH TRUFFLES (Farce de Hachis aux Truffes). Add to the chopped forcemeat for ordinary sausage-meat (No. 68), one-half pound of raw or preserved black truffles cut in slices, and mix in also half a gill of Madeira wine for every pound of sausage-meat. In winter the truffles may be added two or three days in advance, not in summer, as they are liable to mold. (72). CODFISH FORCEMEAT FOR STUFFING FISH (Farce de Morus Fraiche Pour Farcir les Poissons). Chop up finely one pound of codfish free of bone and skin. Break three eggs in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper and add one gill of cream and a teaspoonful of butter, cook on the fire stirring the same as for scrambled eggs, let this cool, have also two ounces of bread crumbs soaked in milk and well squeezed. Put four ounces of butter in a sautoire with two finely chopped shallots, fry without coloring, then add the fish, four ounces of mushrooms and an ounce of truffles both to be finely chopped; season with half an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168) , and into it stir the scrambled eggs and the bread crumbs. Cover the saucepan and cook in the oven for an hour, after removing beat in a spoonful of chopped parsley and four raw egg-yolks. This preparation can also be used for rissoles and coulibiacs. (73). COOKED AND RAW GAME OR CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR LINING THE PAPER CASES FOR SWEETBREADS, CHICKEN, etc. (Farce Cuite et Crue de Gibier ou de Volaille pour Garnir le Fond des Caisses en Papier pour Ris de Veau, Volaille, etc.). Have one pound of raw chicken or game fillets cut in dice, fry them in four ounces of butter, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and let cook for a few minutes, then set away to cool. Begin by pounding the meat, then add gradually to it eight ounces of butter, or calf 's udder in small bits, and remove the whole from the mortar. Pound ten ounces of flour and milk panada, (No. 121) , add to it eight egg-yolks one by one, and then the cooked meat, and continue pounding for ten minutes longer; rub all through a fine sieve, and mix to this forcemeat one pound of raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) ; either of chicken or game. Poach one of the quenelles and rectify if necessary as explained (No. 60) ; four spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs may be added to this forcemeat. (74). CREAM CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH BÉCHAMEL AND MUSHROOM PURÉE (Farce à la Crème de Volaille à la Béchamel, et Purée de Champignons). For this forcemeat obtain one pound of chicken or game meat without any nerves or skin, pass this twice through the machine ( Fig. 47), or else chop it up and pound to pulp; season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, and mix in with one egg-white and two gills of cream béchamel (No. 411) , and two gills of mushroom purée. For the purée of mushrooms, chop up one pound of peeled fresh mushrooms, cook them in butter till they have rendered all their moisture, then season and pound them with a third of their quantity of good béchamel reduced and thickened. When cold mix the mushrooms in gradually with the forcemeat in the mortar, rub all through a fine sieve, and try it to see whether it be too solid, if so, add some sweet cream by working it in with a whip, so as to have it consistent and smooth. (75). CHICKEN OR GAME CREAM FORCEMEAT (Farce à la Crème de Volaille ou de Gibier). Have one pound of chicken or game meat (the breast ), free of nerves or skin, pass them twice through the machine ( Fig. 47); or else chop and pound to a pulp, then press through a sieve, return to the mortar and mix in one egg-white, half an ounce of salt, red pepper and nutmeg, the equal quantity of six or eight gills of cream, before whipping; mixing it in gradually with a whip and working it well. Should the forcemeat be too thick add cream, and if it lacks consistency, more egg-white. (76). CREAM FORCEMEAT OF FISH (Farce de Poisson à la Crème). Take one pound of boned and skinned bass or any other firm fish; pound and rub it through a fine sieve; return it to the mortar, season with an ounce of salt, some nutmeg and red pepper and mix in while still stirring with a whip, two egg-whites and from six to eight gills of cream, measured before whipping; pass the whole through a very fine sieve. Try a small piece in order to rectify if not correct, and if found to be too firm add more cream, and if too soft some more egg-whites. (77). BAKED FISH FORCEMEAT (Farce au Gratin pour Poisson). Put six ounces of butter into a sautoire and when hot add half a pound of finely chopped mushrooms and two ounces of chopped truffle parings. After the mushrooms have rendered their moisture, add one pound of cooked firm fish broken into fragments; as the whole becomes hot, remove it from the fire, cool partly, then add five egg-yolks and five whole eggs, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg; pass it through a medium sized sieve ( Fig. 98), return to the vessel and beat it well with a spoon, incorporating in two spoonfuls of tomato purée, strained through a fine sieve ( Fig. 100) and half a pound of raw fish quenelle forcemeat. (78). FOIES GRAS FORCEMEAT (Farce de Foies Gras). Pound half a pound of frangipane panada (No. 120) with six ounces of butter and half a pound of raw and very white fat livers; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and when the whole is well pounded, strain through a sieve, then add six raw egg-yolks and two well beaten whites while continuing to work the forcemeat. (79). CHICKEN OR GAME WITH RICE FORCEMEAT FOR BORDERS, BOTTOMS OF DISHES AND SURTOUTS (Farce de Volaille ou de Gibier au Riz pour Bordures, Fonds de Plats et Surtouts). Prepare and unnerve one pound either of chicken or game; pass it twice through the machine ( Fig. 47) to suppress all the nerves and pound it to a pulp, take it from the mortar. Put eight ounces of pâte à choux, cream panada (No. 121) into the mortar, pound it thoroughly with the same weight of cooked veal udder, add the game or chicken meat, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, two gills of well reduced cold velouté (No. 415), six egg-whites and a little cream, then add half a pound of well picked, washed and blanched rice, cooked in white broth and cooled. Mix together and keep it in a cool place. This forcemeat is used for borders, surtouts and dish bottoms. (80). FOIES-GRAS AND CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR BORDERS, BOTTOMS OF DISHES AND SURTOUTS (Farce de Foies-Gras et de Volaille pour Bordures, Fonds de Plat ou Surtouts). Pound well one pound of raw fat livers; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then add eight egg-yolks, one at a time, continuing to pound the forcemeat; put in three pounds of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and when all is well blended stand it on ice to use as needed. Forcemeat borders are made in special molds of a crown form, lightly hollowed on top, an inch and a half to two inches high. The bottoms of dishes and the surtouts are not as high, being only one inch generally and two inches in diameter narrower than the basin of the dish. (81). BAKING FORCEMEAT FOR ORDINARY USE (Farce au Gratin Ordinaire). Fry in four ounces of melted lard, one bayleaf, two ounces of carrots and two ounces of celery, both cut in dice, one shallot and two ounces of onions, both finely chopped, also one ounce of truffles, the same of mushrooms and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley; add its equal quantity of calf 's liver and two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) . When the meats are cooked, let the preparation first get cold, then pound and rub it through a sieve; lay this forcemeat into a bowl, cover it with buttered paper and keep it in a cool place; mix with this three tablespoonfuls of raw quenelle forcemeat, either of veal, chicken or game, in order to thicken it, but only just when ready to use. The liver may be replaced by the same quantity of cooked or raw meat, either lamb, veal, chicken or game chopped up very fine and seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. (82). CHICKEN GODIVEAU (Godiveau de Volaille). One pound of the white meat from a tender young chicken; three quarters of a pound of dry, brittle beef kidney suet, without skin or fibres; three quarters of an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168) two whole eggs; three quarters of a pound of cream panada, (No. 120) ; moisten and finish exactly the same as the veal godiveau (No. 85) . (83). GODIVEAU OF PIKE (Godiveau de Brochet). A pound of skinless and boneless pike meat, chopped and pounded fine; two pounds of dry and brittle beef kidney suet free of fat and nerves, chopped also up fine; mix the two together, chop once more and season with an ounce of spiced salt; pound to a pulp to obtain a fine paste, and incorporate into it gradually, one pound and a half of cream panada (No. 120) , and afterward twelve beaten up egg-whites. Try the forcemeat to see whether it be too hard, if so add some cream, and if too soft, more egg-whites. (84). GODIVEAU OF RABBIT OR OTHER GAME (Godiveau de Lapereau ou Autres Gibiers). Take one pound of rabbit meat or any other game, one pound of dry, brittle beef kidney suet without skin or fibres, one ounce of spiced salt (general spices, No. 168) , six eggs and four ounces of pâte à choux panada (No. 121) . Moisten and finish the same as the veal godiveau (No. 85) . (85). VEAL GODIVEAU (Godiveau de Veau). Veal godiveau frequently takes the place of forcemeat and is excellent if well prepared. Have a pound of fresh veal meat cut off from the kernel without any fat or nerves whatever; cut it up into inch pieces, and pass them twice through the machine ( Fig. 47), or in case there be no machine, chop them up very finely. Have also a pound and a quarter of beef kidney suet, perfectly dry and brittle, remove all its skin and fibres, and chop it up very finely, seasoning with one ounce of general spices (No. 168) . Pound well the veal, add to it the suet, and pound all together to a pulp, so as to form a smooth paste, then stir in four whole eggs singly, as well as four ounces of frangipane panada (No. 120) , in small quantities at the time. After the godiveau is well pounded, put it away for two hours in a cool place, then pound it over again, moistening it gradually with ice- water or else small pieces of very clear and clean ice. When the godiveau becomes sufficiently soft, try its consistency, by poaching a quenelle of it in boiling water, and if found to be too firm, add a little more ice- water, but if not sufficiently consistent, pound one ounce more panada with one egg, and incorporate the farce slowly to the panada, or even the egg alone will answer. (86). CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSELINE (Farce de Volaille pour Mousselines). Ingredients. -One pound of chicken breast-meat, one egg-white, two gills of béchamel, four tablespoonfuls of cream forcemeat, and the value of one quart of whipped cream. Have one pound of chicken breast-meat free of nerves; pass it twice through the machine ( Fig. 47), pound it to a pulp and rub through a sieve, season with half an ounce of salt, red pepper and nutmeg, and incorporate gradually into it one egg-white and two gills of béchamel (No. 409) . Strain all this through a sieve, and put it in a metal vessel on the ice for fifteen minutes, then work it well with a whip, incorporating gradually into it four tablespoonfuls of cream forcemeat (No. 74) and the value of a quart of whipped cream thoroughly drained. Try a little of it in a mold and if too consistent add a little more of the whipped cream. (87). GAME FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSELINE (Farce de Gibier pour Mousselines). Take one pound of the breast-meat of some raw game suppressing the skin and nerves, pound and pass it through a sieve. Place this purée in a tin vessel and mix in one egg-white slowly working it gradually so that it attains body, then incorporate, always slowly, two or three gills of raw cream without once ceasing to mix the preparation. When mellow add four or five tablespoonfuls of purée of cooked foies gras, pounded and pressed through a sieve, season, and when very smooth poach a small piece in a small timbale in a bain-marie so to judge of its consistency; it must be firm, although mellow; if found necessary add a few egg yolks. (88). SALMON FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSELINE (Farce de Saumon pour Mousselines). One pound of pared fish pounded and seasoned with half an ounce of salt, cayenne pepper and nutmeg, then rub through the sieve the same as the cream chicken forcemeat. Return it to the mortar and work into it one raw egg-white, half a pint of béchamel (No. 409) and two tablespoonfuls of cream forcemeat (No. 76) . Put it on to the ice, work vigorously and when very cold incorporate gradually into it equal quantity of well drained whipped cream. Serve this in timbales as hors-d'œuvre or garnishing. (89). CHICKEN QUENELLE FORCEMEAT, WITH SOUBISE OR TOMATO (Farce à Quenelle de Volaille, Soubisée ou Tomatée). Ingredients for these Quenelles. -One pound of chicken, half a pound of pâte à chou panada (No. 121) ; a quarter of a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt and nutmeg, six egg-yolks, one whole egg, one pint of chicken cream forcemeat. In order to make chicken or game forcemeats only the breasts are used, having them well pared, cut in pieces and pass through the machine ( Fig. 47). Put this into a mortar, and pound it to a pulp, rub it through a sieve, pound it once more, and add to it the panada, putting it in gradually, then the butter or udder, without stopping the pounding process, and afterward the egg-yolks one by one, season with salt and nutmeg, rub the forcemeat again through the sieve, and then lay it in a thin metal vessel on the ice, and beat it up again for a few minutes so as to render it smooth. Poach a small piece of it, and if found to be too consistent, then thin it with a little cold sauce or raw cream, and keep it in a cool place until needed. Instead of using velouté or cream, one pint of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75) , may be added, made of chicken, egg-whites and cream. Quenelle forcemeats made of chicken can be used with soubise or tomatoes by mixing in either some soubise (No. 543) , or fine consistent tomato purée (No. 730) , instead of the cream or velouté. (90). FISH QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (Farce à Quenelle de Poisson). Fish forcemeats are prepared with the raw meats of either pike, bass or sheepshead, increasing the weight with panada for those fishes requiring more consistence, such as cod, etc. Any fish lacking body, such as whiting, etc., can be mixed with sheepshead, bass or others. Pike meat is renowned as having plenty of consistence and is easy to procure. Prepare one pound of pike meat free of bones and skin, pound it well and when reduced to a paste take it out of the mortar. Pound one pound of cream panada (No. 120) , with eight ounces of lobster butter, add the pike meat, pound again all together, then mix in slowly six raw egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg, sweet peppers and Hungarian paprika pepper; press the forcemeat through a sieve and put it in a thin metal vessel on ice, beat it well to have it smooth. Poach a small piece to try its consistence and rectify if needed, either by adding cream or panada, mixing the farce to the latter, a little at the time. To this forcemeat is frequently added some tomatoed soubise or mushroom purée and if required to be very light beat in two well whipped egg-whites. (91). GAME QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (Farce à Quenelle de Gibier). Ingredients. -One pound of game, half a pound of calf 's udder, half a pound of bread-crumbs soaked in hot milk, salt, red pepper, nutmeg, four egg-yolks and one whole egg. Pass one pound of the breast of game twice through the machine ( Fig. 47), pound it to a pulp and rub it through a sieve, then set it in a cool place or on the ice. Soak some bread-crumbs in milk, extract from it all the liquid, let it dry and get cool; pound the bread-crumbs with calf 's udder in four different parts and continue the process until all is done, then season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, half an ounce in all; add to this the game pulp, and continue pounding for ten minutes, then mix in four egg-yolks, singly and one whole egg. Poach one of the quenelles in boiling water to discover its consistency, and if found necessary to rectify refer to No. 60. (92). LAMB OR VEAL QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (Farce Quenelle d'Agneau ou de Veau). Procure one pound of either lean fillet, or kernel of lamb or veal; ten ounces of cooked calf 's udder; four egg-yolks, two whole eggs, ten ounces of panada with flour (No. 121) , three quarters of an ounce of salt, nutmeg and red pepper; suppress the fat and skin from the meat, cut it into half inch squares, put this twice through the machine ( Fig. 47), then pound the meat, and when converted into a paste rub it forcibly through a round sieve ( Fig. 142), or any other one not too fine; take it out of the mortar, lay in the panada, pound it fine, add to it the calf 's udder, a little at the time, then the seasonings and strained meat, also the egg-yolks singly, and the whole eggs; pound again and after the preparation is thoroughly blended, rub it through a fine sieve. Set this forcemeat into a bowl, and stir it up a few moments with a spoon; poach one quenelle in boiling water to judge of its consistency, and if too hard, mix into it a few spoonfuls of cold velouté (No. 415) , or raw cream; if, on the contrary, it is too thin, pound a little panada to smooth it down, and mix it in gradually with the forcemeat, by so doing it assumes a greater consistency. (93). DIFFERENT FORCEMEATS FOR RAVIOLES OF BEEF, CHICKEN AND VEAL (Différentes Farces pour Ravioles de Bœuf, Volaille et Veau). For Beef. -Half a pound of cooked chopped tenderloin of beef, quarter of a pound of brains in small one-eighth squares, two ounces of cooked and chopped ham, two ounces of chopped spinach. Two ounces of grated parmesan; salt, pepper, nutmeg, three egg-yolks and two table-spoonfuls of cream. All these ingredients well mixed and to be used for square ravioles. Chicken. -Half a pound of chopped white or black poultry meat, and half a pound of chopped veal udder; pound well together with four egg-yolks and a gill of velouté; season with last, pepper and nutmeg; mix into this preparation four ounces of parmesan cheese; this is for round ravioles. Veal. -Fry two ounces of onions in four ounces of butter without allowing it to take color; moisten with broth, reduce to a glace and put in the veal, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add four egg-yolks and chopped parsley. Make triangular shaped ravioles with this. (94). TO PREPARE GELATINE FROM CALF'S FEET (Pour Préparer la Colle de Pieds de Veau). Calf 's feet gelatine is more especially used for preparing jelly and gelatineous sweet dishes. Soak seven or eight very fresh calve's feet, split in two, having the bones all extracted, put them into a small soup-pot with water and let the liquid boil for ten minutes; then drain it off, also the feet; cool these off and return them to the clean soup-pot with two spoonfuls of sugar, the juice of four lemons, and half a bottleful of white wine. Cover with water, then heat the liquid while skimming, and at the first boil set it on the stove to obtain a regular and continuous ebullition for four to five hours, strain the liquid into a bowl and let it get very cold. When the gelatine is firm, remove all the fat from the top, then wash the surface with warm water so that not a vestige of grease remains. Lift out the jelly without disturbing the sediment at the bottom of the bowl, and put it back, either all or part into a saucepan to melt. For one quart of gelatine, mix in three quarters of a pound of broken sugar and the juice of four lemons; when the sugar is dissolved, test the consistency so as to rectify it if necessary, by adding either more water or more gelatine, according to its strength or weakness. Beat four egg-whites without getting them frothy, put these into one gill of cold water and pour it over the dissolved gelatine, place the saucepan on a moderate fire, beat the liquid slowly till it is about reaching boiling point, then remove the saucepan to a slower fire, so that the liquid quivers, but does not boil; now add the juice of four lemons, cover the saucepan and keep it near the boiling point for thirty minutes, the gelatine should now be limpid. Filter it through a bag or strain it through a napkin fastened to the four feet of a filtering stool ( Fig. 51) and pour it back into the filter until it becomes perfectly clear; this operation must be performed in a very warm place. (95). TO PREPARE PIG'S SKIN GELATINE (Pour Préparer la Colle de Couenne). Soak in cold water for five or six hours, six pounds of fresh pork skin; put it into a saucepan with cold water to double its height, and blanch it in this water until it boils, then drain and refresh it; scrape off the pieces one by one, wash them well, and return them to the saucepan with more clean, cold water and boil the liquid while skimming it; set it on one side of the range or on the gas stove, and add half a bottleful of white wine, then continue boiling for seven hours, skimming it frequently. Pass the liquid through a sieve into a basin, let it get cold and firm on ice, then remove all the fat from the top and wash the surface off with very hot water; melt it once more to mix in it with the necessary broth and clarify it with meat and eggs or white of eggs, proceeding the same as for aspic-jelly (No. 103) . (96). GHERKINS (Cornichons). Cut off the stalks and ends from small gherkin cucumbers; put a few handfuls in a coarse towel or bag, with a heavy handful of kitchen salt, shake them in this bag to cleanse well and remove all the outer roughness and then toss them on a large sieve to free them of the salt; range in a barrel, pour over a brine made with sufficient salt to float an egg or a potato on its surface, cover, and on top lay a heavy weight to keep them under water; leave them so for six days. Now drain off the brine and return to the barrel more fresh brine, it containing as much salt as the first one; put back both cover and weight to keep them submerged under the liquid and leave stand in a cool place. After a short time a scum will form on the surface; this must in no ways be disturbed until the gherkins are needed, for it acts as a protector, preventing any air from penetrating into the liquid. When the gherkins are wanted for use, take them from the brine; unsalt by putting them in fresh water for twelve hours. Pour half water and half vinegar in an untinned copper basin, throw into it a small bagful of spices, such as cloves, peppers, mustard seeds and mace. Place on the fire and at the first boil, plunge in the well drained gherkins and leave to bubble for a few moments, then remove the basin from the fire and put both gherkins and vinegar into a large jar or barrel to cool off; put in with them a handful of tarragon, some small blanched onions and shallots and a few red peppers; stand this in a well aired place for a few days and the gherkins will be then ready for use. (97). GRATED PARMESAN AND SWISS CHEESE (Fromage de Parmesan et Gruyère râpé). Cut off all the rind from the cheese, leaving no black part on whatever; grate by rubbing the cheese against a sufficiently coarse grater ( Fig. 177) until it is all consumed; keep in a cool but not too damp place. (98). GRATED HORSERADISH AND HORSERADISH RIBBONS (Raifort Râpé et en Rubans). Grated horseradish should be made of clean, fresh horseradish root, peeled or scraped, washed and dried, then rubbed against a large grater; it can either be served fresh or put into a stone jar with salt and vinegar, corking it well to preserve till needed. For horseradish ribbons, peel the root the same as for grating, and scrape it with the sharp blade of a knife, held at an angle from the top to the bottom; by this method fine ribbons of the root are obtained; let them be as long as it is possible to have them. Long horseradish should be used for this purpose. (99). COOKED CHOCOLATE ICING (Glace Cuite au Chocolat). Put into a sugar -pan a quarter of a pound of unsweetened chocolate; let it soften at the oven door, and dilute it with two gills of warm syrup at sixteen degrees, or simply with water, then add to the liquid some icing sugar, so as to obtain a smooth preparation neither too soft nor too thin. (100). COOKED COCOA ICING (Glace Cuite au Cacao). Dissolve a quarter of a pound of cocoa or unsweetened chocolate, in a sugar -pan; cook three quarters of a pound of sugar in another pan with one pint of water till it reaches the degree of small thread, mash the cocoa with a spoon, dilute it gradually with the cooked sugar, then cook all together until it reaches small thread again; remove it from the fire, rub it against the sides of the pan with a spoon in order to mass it well; this icing is used to ice Génoese, éclairs and a variety of small cakes. (101). ROYAL ICING, AND ROYAL ICING FLAVORED WITH ZESTS (Glace Royale et Glace Royale Parfumée aux Zestes.) Royal Icing. -Put into a vessel the whites of one or several eggs (those not too fresh are preferable), and add to them some icing sugar, sifted through a very fine sieve, sufficient to have the eggs and sugar combined; form into a running paste, add several drops, either of lemon juice or acetic acid, according to the quantity of icing. With a wooden spatula beat up slowly to begin, then continue the action more briskly, always turning it in such a way that the air may enter, which helps to make the icing lighter and firmer. Beat it until the spoon, being lifted from the icing, it stands on it upright, without falling off. This royal icing is excellent for decorating pieces, cakes, etc., but for flowers or decorations to be made entirely of royal icing, then after beating, add more icing sugar, but do not get it too hard. Royal icing can be made any color by using vegetable colors. Royal Icing flavored with Zests. -Put into a basin, half a pound of sugar, add a few spoonfuls of sugar flavored either with orange or lemon zest, adding gradually sufficient white of egg to allow it to flow; this icing is used for covering cakes. (102). ICING WITH SYRUP FOR CAKES FLAVORED WITH VANILLA, ORANGE, LEMON OR FRUIT JUICES (Glace au Sirop pour Gâteaux Perfumée soit à la Vanille, à l'Orange, au Citron ou au Jus de Fruits). Put one pint of water and a pound of sugar in a saucepan, adding half a vanilla bean or else some orange or lemon peel; stand it on the fire, let boil up a few times to obtain a syrup, then remove the saucepan from the range immediately, suppress the vanilla or peels and incorporate sufficient sugar to form a very smooth flowing paste. For Uncooked Fruit Juice Icing. -Prepare it with strawberry, raspberry, currant or pineapple juice. Simply crush the ripe, fresh fruits, pour them on a sieve to collect all the liquid. Put some icing sugar in a vessel, dissolve it with a little thirty-degree syrup, and the fruit juice, incorporating the liquid slowly; just before using this icing warm it in an untinned copper vessel, stirring it during the operation. The icing sugars are colored according to taste and are used for icing Genoeses, pouring it over or else dipping in all kinds of small cakes, such as éclairs, etc. (103). TO PREPARE, CLARIFY AND FILTER ASPIC JELLY (Pour Préparer la Gelée d'Aspic, la Clarifier et la Filtrer). Aspic or meat jelly is prepared with chicken or game broth, obtaining it as clear as possible, and mixing it with a certain quantity of gelatine made either with calf 's feet or pig skin, or even with isinglass. Aspics are also prepared with special stocks made under the following conditions: brown in a saucepan half a pound of breast of veal, one knuckle, and two fowls, suppressing the breasts; when the meats are lightly colored moisten them amply with some light broth, free of all fat, and add to it four or five boned and blanched calf 's feet, also some roots and onions, a garnished bouquet, but no salt, boil the liquid while skimming, remove it to the side of the range, and finish cooking the meats, lifting them out as soon as they are done. Strain the liquid through a sieve, skim off all the fat, try a little of it on ice to judge of its consistency, and should it not be sufficiently firm, then heat it up once more, and stir into it a few gelatine leaves softened in cold water and dissolved in a small separate saucepan. The aspic should never be reduced with the idea of rendering it firmer, because the boiling only wastes it without thickening it; chop one pound of lean beef, one pound for two quarts of liquid, add to it four egg-whites or two whole eggs and one pint of white wine, dilute it gradually with the aspic jelly, put it into a saucepan on the fire, stir the liquid with a whisk until the instant boiling point is reached, then remove it to one side, and let it simmer very slowly, till it becomes perfectly clear, then strain it through a flannel bag ( Fig. 50); or moisten a clean napkin and arrange it on a kitchen filtering stool as shown in Fig. 51; should the jelly not be sufficiently limpid, pour it through again until perfectly clear. FIG. 50, FIG. 51. An illustration of a flannel bag being upheld by a ring to left of text, Fig. 50, and a napkin on a kitchen filtering stool, Fig. 51. (104). CALF'S FOOT JELLY WITH MADEIRA WINE (Gelée de Pieds de Veau au vin de Madère). Take the value of one quart of calf 's foot gelatine and mix into it three quarters of a pound of sugar and the juice of four lemons. After the sugar is dissolved try its consistency to rectify it if necessary, adding more water or more gelatine according to whether it be too soft or too hard. Beat up four egg-whites without letting them come to a froth, mix in a gill of cold water and pour this over the dissolved gelatine; set the untinned basin on a moderate fire, whip the liquid slowly until on the verge of boiling, then withdraw it to a slower heat and keep the liquid simmering without boiling; now add the juice of four lemons; cover and leave stand for thirty minutes. The jelly should now be limpid; filter it through a flannel bag or a napkin fastened to the four feet of a filtering stool ( Fig. 51), return the jelly to the bag and continue the operation until it passes through clearly; this should be done in a warm place. As soon as the jelly is properly filtered let it stand until cold and then add one gill of good Madeira, pour it into a mold previously imbedded in ice and leave it for one hour and a half to set. (105). MEAT JELLY WITH GELATINE (Gelée de Viande à la Gélatine). Put four quarts of good broth with one pound of gelatine into a saucepan, adding a quarter of an ounce of pepper-corns , two cloves, a few branches of celery and a little mace, put it on to the fire and stir continuously with a whip until the liquid boils; season to taste. Break six eggs, put them with their shells into a bowl and beat them up a little mixing in with them, half a bottle of white wine or a quarter of a bottle of Madeira, one gill of tarragon vinegar, and a quart of small pieces of clean ice, dilute this with a quart of the liquid jelly, and pour the clarification into the remainder of the jelly, stirring it constantly, then return the saucepan to the fire and continue the beating. When the jelly has reached the boiling degree, remove it from the fire, and keep it very warm for half an hour, but it must not boil again; filter as indicated (No. 103) . (106). SWEET JELLY WITH GELATINE, OR FISH ISINGLASS (Gelé Douce à la Gélatine ou à la Colle de Poisson). Put into a basin four quarts of water, three pounds of sugar, half a pound of gelatine or ten ounces of fish isinglass and the peel of eight lemons, stir the whole well together until the sugar is melted, then set the basin on a slow fire and beat well with a whip; as soon as it begins to boil put in twelve partly beaten egg-whites into which has been added the juice of twelve lemons; mix the whole well together stirring unceasingly and allowing it to boil slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes, then withdraw the basin from the fire and let the jelly rest for a few moments; now pour it through a flannel bag upheld by a ring ( Fig. 50); return it several times until it acquires a perfect limpidity. The lemon-peel can be suppressed, flavoring it with any kind of liquor or clarified fruit juice. (107). LARD (Saindoux). Lard is the produce of leaf lard melted with fat pork; this operation should be performed rapidly, especially in summer time. Remove the membranes and sanguineous parts from all that is required for making the lard -say about twenty pounds; cut the leaf lard and fat pork into half inch squares and steep them separately for two hours in an abundance of cold water using twelve quarts for each and two ounces of crystal soda also for each; wash both in several waters, keeping them separated; drain and lay first the fat pork in a saucepan with four quarts of water, melt it on a slow fire being careful to stir the bottom frequently; as it melts it becomes white and milky, then transparent, when in this state, strain it through a colander and return it to a clean saucepan adding the leaf lard; set it on a good fire and stir incessantly until the squares become dry and brown, then strain the fat, press well the squares, leave to cool slightly, afterward adding a gill of water for every two pounds of the fat. Beat the whole vigorously, let cool and draw off the clear part before the fat has had time to congeal, just when it begins to set, beat thoroughly to have it smooth. (108). OXONGE-LARD (Oxonge-Saindoux). Oxonge is exclusively obtained by melting leaf lard without using any other material; oxonge is finer than lard and is also employed for kitchen and pastry purposes. The leaf lard is melted in a bain-marie or by steam, this latter method being preferable. Remove the skin and fibers from ten pounds of leaf lard, cut it up in squares about half an inch each and bathe them in eighteen quarts of water with half a pound of crystal soda; wash in several waters, drain and pound in a mortar, then put it into a well tinned copper basin in a bain-marie and steam by keeping the water boiling all the time until the lard is all melted, now strain it through a fine colander and leave to cool slightly, adding one pint of cold water, stir well, let it rest, then pour off the clear part when it begins to set, beat well to have it smooth. (109). VEAL UDDER. (Tétine de Veau). Veal Udder is the fatty part covering a kernel of veal; remove it entirely, tie it up and cook in plenty of white broth; when done take it out, pull off the string and press it lightly under a weight. Pare and cut it either into strips, squares or bands, etc. It is used in forcemeats instead of butter, pass it twice through the machine, pound well and then pass through a sieve. The way to keep it is to leave it covered in a cool place or else cover over entirely with salt. (110). TO PREPARE LARDING PORK (Pour Préparer le Lard à Piquer). Lift the bands of pork leaving as little meat on as possible, from the first rib to the end of the loin; lay them in brine for three months, then drain off, and put them on a table to rub one by one and cover with salt. Set them one on top of the other in a cool, dry place and range a board over with a weight on top; turn them over, and throw on some salt, and at the end of a month change those from the bottom to the top, and three months after, fasten a strong twine to each piece, and hang them up separately in a cold, dark room to dry. Another Way. -The piece of pork taken from the back is the only one to use for larding purposes, as it is firm and not liable to crack. Remove all the meat from it, and cut it into an oblong piece, this being called a band; salt it dry with fine salt for three or four weeks, and if it be necessary to use it shortly after its salting, then rub it with very fine salt, and hang it up in a dry and cool place. This pork must be salted toward the end of the winter; fat pork never receives more salt than it needs, whichever way it may be employed, or however long the operation may last. (111). TO CUT FAT PORK FOR LARDING (Manière de Tailler le Lard Pour Piquer). The larding pork must be white and firm, perfectly dry and cooled on ice, specially in summer so to make it harder and to be enabled to cut it more evenly. Divide the pork into the required length leaving on the rind; remove a slice from the top of the necessary thickness to have the pork of the same thickness throughout, paring the two ends square, then divide it into lardons at equal distances cutting them perpendicularly as far down as the rind, for this use a thin knife, called a lard slicer, and cut the lard the size designated by Fig. 52, then cut them horizontally to obtain very square lardons of the desired size. FIG. 52. FIG. 53. - Larding Needle for Beef â la Mode. FIG. 54. - Trussing Needle. FIG. 55. - Large Larding Needle. An illustration of Different Kinds of Needles used for Larding Purposes. No. 1, lardons as represented in the figure are from three to four-eighths of an inch square, by three and one-quarter to four inches long. This size is for larding beef à la mode, braised tongue, kernel of veal, leg of mutton, etc. No. 2, are three-sixteenths of an inch square by two and one quarter inches long; this size is convenient for saddles of venison, fricandeaux, tenderloins of beef, etc. No. 3, these are five-thirty-seconds of an inch square, by two inches in length; this size is for poultry, large game, fish, sweetbreads, veal cutlets, etc. No. 4, lardons of one-eighth of an inch square, by one and three-quarter inches long; this size is for small game, pigeons, chickens, etc. The lardons as shown in the figures are represented one quarter their actual size. (112). TO LARD MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME (Pour Piquer les Viandes la Volaille et le Gibier). If it be butcher's meat, pare it properly by removing in strips the skin covering the meat, then all the superfluous fat. The way to lard a tenderloin, is to pare a fine tenderloin of beef, weighing six pounds after it is trimmed; remove the fat, slide the blade of a thin knife between the skin and the meat, and press it on the skin so as to avoid injuring the flesh; remove also the superfluous fat on the side, then cut the two ends round shaped. Choose a larding needle of suitable size to hold the larding pork that should be cut into pieces of three-sixteenths by two and a quarter inches long; lay the tenderloin lengthwise on a heavy towel, place this over the left arm, then proceed to lard the meat with the larding needle threaded with a piece of the pork, boring the meat from right to left. The needle containing the pork must be stuck in the flesh to a depth depending upon its length, but the needle must be withdrawn with one stroke, so that the pork remains in the meat visible of an equal length on both sides. After the first row is larded, the next one should be slipped exactly between those of the first row; then instead of larding between the two lards of the last row, begin the operation from the start, which means lard two more rows the same as the first, observing that the second ones are arranged contrarywise to the first two, then continue until the whole tenderloin is filled. Proceed exactly the same for fricandeau, racks of veal, grenadins or sweetbreads. FIG. 56, FIG. 57, FIG. 58, FIG. 59. An illustration of the Larding Process of Different Kinds of Meats. When a piece of poultry or game is required to be larded, it must first be drawn, singed and trussed, then singe the breast once more, or else dip this part into boiling water to harden the meat; after this is cold, lard with lardons adapted to their size. This in fact is the whole theory of larding, and by examining various larded pieces, one can easily become an adept in the art. (113). LEMONS; TO CUT THEM IN VARIOUS MANNERS (Citrons Taillés de Différentes Manières). First wash and wipe the lemons, then cut them lengthwise in four, to serve either with oysters or fried fish. Channeled slices of lemon are made by cutting small notches on the lemon lengthways of the peel, then cutting the lemon in crosswise slices an eighth of an inch thick. These are used for garnishing broiled fish. Slices of lemon cut the same way without being channeled, are frequently served with tea. FIG. 60, FIG. 61. An illustration of Two Lemons Cut in Fancy Shapes. Halved lemons are prepared by paring off the two ends and then make sixteen notches in the center, the third of the length of the lemon with the tip of a small knife; these gashes should be very regular; run the knife through as far as the center, having eight cuts to the right and eight to the left, this makes eight long triangles; detach the lemon in two parts ( Fig. 60). These are used also for cold fish and hâtelets or skewers ( Fig. 61). Shells of lemon can also be made, making two shells from one lemon. Cut from the center of the lemon, beginning at the stalk, as far as the middle of one side and from the other end of the lemon as far as the middle of the other side, about one half inch of the peel, without detaching it; cut across the lemon, keeping the ribbon of the peel intact, thus producing two identical pieces; these halved shells are used for garnishing fried fishes such as sole à la Colbert, etc. (114). COOKED MARINADE (Marinade Cuite). Mince one pound of carrots, as many onions and half a pound of celery root; fry all these vegetables in a quarter of a pound of lard without letting them attain color, and moisten with two quarts of vinegar and one quart of water or more according to the strength of the vinegar. Add an ounce of parsley leaves, three bayleaves and as much thyme, half an ounce of basil, garlic, cloves, a bit of mace, a tablespoonful of crushed whole peppers and the same quantity of allspice, and some salt. Boil the whole for half an hour, put it aside to get cold and use this marinade for marinating venison, mutton, hare, etc. (115). RAW MARINADE (Marinade Crue). There are two kinds of raw marinade; the first one is made of oil, minced onions, branches of parsley, thyme, bayleaf, slices of lemon, salt, mignonette, garlic and basil. The second one is made of two quarts of vinegar, four quarts of water, minced carrots and onions, bayleaf, a clove of garlic, thyme, basil, mace, whole peppers and sprigs of parsley. (116). HOW TO DRESS MERINGUES (Pour Dresser les Meringues). Prepare a meringue paste as in No. 140. Pour the preparation into a pocket furnished with a socket and push it into rounds on to white paper bands; dust them over with fine sugar and press down the middle lightly, so as to efface the tip, formed by the socket, then range these paper bands on top of some wet boards. Cook the meringues on these boards in a very slack oven, leaving them in for fifty minutes; they must be of a fine golden color and well-dried; after taking them from the oven, detach them carefully from the paper, and remove all the soft parts from the insides, using a teaspoon for this purpose, then lay them immediately on a raised edged tin sheet, one beside the other, the hollow part uppermost, and keep them in a warm heater for twelve hours. FIG. 62. An illustration of Meringue Paste Placed on a Large Tray in the Form of Balls. (117). MINCE MEAT (Mince Meat). Suppress all fibers and skin from half a pound of beef kidney suet, chop it up very finely; have also chopped half a pound of cooked ox heart; seed and pick half a pound of Malaga raisins, half a pound of Smyrna raisins, half a pound of currants, chop up three ounces of citron, cut three ounces of candied orange peel into three-sixteenth of an inch squares, peel and chop finely two pounds of apples. Have two ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ground cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of grated nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of allspice and ground ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered coriander seeds, one pint of cider, one gill of rum, quarter of a gill of brandy and the peels and juice of two lemons. Mix all the ingredients together and put them into a stone crock leaving it in a cool place for at least fifteen days before using. (118). TO TURN, CHANNEL AND FLUTE MUSHROOMS (Pour Tourner et Canneler les Champignons). Choose the freshest mushrooms and those of equal size, cut off the stems, wipe well the heads, and take them one by one in the left hand, the hollow side underneath, then with the tip of a small pointed knife cut away the peel in regular rings without destroying the mushroom, and turn from right to left pressing all the time against the tip of the small knife; this must be done quickly and let us observe that it is not on the first trial that a mushroom can be properly turned, it takes practice to accomplish this properly. As quickly as each one is done, throw it into a saucepan containing cold, acidulated water, just sufficient to cover, then drain off the water, and cook the mushrooms for seven or eight minutes with the lid on, adding salt, butter and lemon juice, to keep them as white as possible. As for fluting mushrooms, this art is only learned after long experience. Mushroom fluting has become almost a profession, and the difficulties to be overcome can be better understood on examining those pretty mushroom heads so delicately carved, we see displayed by all preserve manufacturers. (119). TO STONE OLIVES (Pour Énucléer les Olives). If the olives are plump, large and contain small stones, these can be removed with a machine made for the purpose ( Fig. 63) or with a tube from a column box, but generally the meat is cut off in spirals around the stone by means of a small knife. After the stone is removed, the olives resume their former shape, then plunge them into boiling water, and take them out again at once; they must be blanched without boiling. FIG. 63. An illustration of a Machine Used in Pitting Olives with a Long Handle. (120). PANADA CREAM FRANGIPANE (Panade Crème Frangipane). Boil four gills of cream; put into another saucepan, four eggs, an ounce and a half of flour and some salt; mix and dilute with the cream, set it on the fire, and stir it with a spoon, bearing on the bottom of the saucepan, and when thickened and well worked remove it from the fire at the first boil and then set it away to cool with a buttered paper over it. (121). PANADA OF FLOUR AND MILK, BREAD-CRUMBS, AND PâTE À CHOUX (Panade de Farine et de Lait, Mie de Pain et Pâte à Choux). Flour and Milk. -Put in a saucepan half pound of flour, also four eggs and work well together adding some salt, and dilute with six to eight gills of milk; stir it over the fire and remove at the first boil, pour it into a bowl, cover with a buttered paper and let get cold. Bread-crumbs. -Soak four ounces of bread-crumbs in a pint of water, squeeze out all the liquid and put it into a saucepan with a little salt and three gills of milk; thicken it on the fire without ceasing to beat, and stir it up with a spoon until it detaches itself from the pan, then set it in a bowl, cover with buttered paper and put away to cool. Pâte à Choux. -Put one pint of water or broth in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, set it on the fire, remove it aside at the first boil, and incorporate into it, three quarters of a pound of sifted flour, mix well and dry on a slow fire till the paste detaches itself from the saucepan and let cool slightly, then stir into it gradually two whole eggs and four yolks, set it away in a cool place with a buttered paper over, for further use. (122). WHEAT AND RICE FLOUR PANADA (Panade de Farine de Gruan et de Riz). Wheat Flour. -Boil half a pint of broth with half an ounce of butter, remove it to the side of the fire, and add to it four or five ounces of flour, or as much as it can absorb, stir the paste quickly, return it to a slow fire to dry, do not cease stirring until it detaches from the saucepan. Pour it into a bowl, cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set it away to cool. Rice Flour. -Have one pint of white broth or milk and half an ounce of butter; boil together and add sufficient rice flour to form a paste, let it dry, then set it away with a buttered paper cover to get cool. (123). PARSLEY BOUQUET, IN BRANCHES, FRIED OR CHOPPED (Persil en Bouquet, en Branches, Frit ou Haché). Plain Bouquet or Bunch of Parsley. -Take about one ounce of parsley branches, including the leaves, wash them nicely and fold them in such a manner that they form a small bundle or fagot, to be tied with a piece of string. The Garnished Bouquet of Parsley. -Make it exactly the same as the plain bouquet the only difference being that it envelopes various aromatics, such as thyme, bayleaf, clove of garlic, basil, marjoram, chives, green celery, etc. When we speak of a garnished bunch of parsley without any specification, we mean garnished with a bayleaf and a small twig of thyme. Parsley in Branches for garnishing should be taken from well washed, very green parsley, from which the coarser stalks have been removed; keep it in fresh water and use when needed, draining it first: for garnishing fish, boiled beef, etc. Fried Parsley is used as an accessory to fried dishes; it is not a garnishing, but simply a decoration; detach some leaves from some very green parsley, wash them in cold water, drain, press them in the hand or in a cloth to extract all the water, and when dry, lay them in a wire basket to plunge into boiling fat; drain as soon as they stiffen. Chopped Parsley. -Choose very green parsley, wash, drain and press it so as to extract all the water, then cut it up as finely as possible, afterward chopping it well; wash it again, drain and squeeze it thoroughly to remove all the water; lay it on a cloth sieve and leave it in a cool place till needed. (124). ALMOND PASTE FOR FANCY CAKES (Pâte d'Amandes à Petits Fours). Take one pound of peeled and well dried almonds; one pound of powdered sugar, and five whites of eggs. Pound the almonds and the sugar, either in a machine or mortar, and when well reduced to a powder, pass it forcibly through a twelve mesh sieve ( Fig. 96); return it to the mortar, and mix in with the almonds the five egg-whites little by little, so as to make a paste, which can be now beaten and worked until a good body is obtained, having it as fine as possible. (125). ALMOND PASTE WITH COOKED SUGAR AND FILBERT PASTE (Pâte d'Amandes et Pâte d'Avelines au Sucre Cuit). Almond Paste. -Shell and skin one pound of almonds; pound them with half a pound of powdered sugar and a little water to make into a very fine paste, the same consistency as a macaroon paste. Cook three pounds of sugar to small crack, and as soon as ready pour it in small strings on to the paste, stirring constantly with a spatula and leave stand till cold. When this paste is thoroughly cooled off, return it to the mortar and pound it once more with liquors or vanilla syrup, to have it obtain a body and make it into a fine paste, then put it in a stone jar and leave it in a cool place. Filbert Paste with Cooked Sugar. -Have one pound of shelled filberts pounded to a pulp with a pound of powdered sugar and a gill of water; lay this paste in a basin. Cook in a copper pan two pounds and a half of sugar to small crack, pour it slowly over the paste mixing it so that it mingles in well, then leave to cool and pound again, stirring in half a gill of liquor, either kirsch, maraschino or any other. Color the paste green or pink according to taste. (126). ALMOND PASTE WITH EGG-YOLKS (Pâte d'amandes aux jaunes d'œufs). Have one pound of almonds, one pound of sugar, and eight egg-yolks; pound or mash the almonds in a machine with the sugar so as to reduce them to a fine powder, then strain through a twelve mesh sieve ( Fig. 96), put them into the mortar, and mix in well the yolks adding them little by little; pound all up together so as to obtain a very fine paste, having it quite thick. (127). ALMOND PASTE WITH GUM TRAGACANTH (Pâte d'Amandes à la Gomme Adragante). Put three ounces of gum tragacanth to steep in two gills of water for twenty-four hours, then strain forcibly through a piece of linen. Pour this gum on to a marble slab and work it with the hand to have acquire a body incorporating in slowly two pounds of icing sugar, then add one pound of pounded almonds and the juice of a lemon strained through a sieve; beat the paste well and pour it into a vessel or stone pot; closing hermetically; keep in a very cool place to use when needed. This paste may be colored red, green, orange or any other color. (128). ALMOND PASTE WITH PISTACHIOS (Pâte d'Amandes aux Pistaches). Have three quarters of a pound of almonds, half a pound of pistachio nuts, a pound and a half of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of orange flower-water and five egg-whites. Peel the almonds and pistachio nuts; dry and pound them with the sugar, egg-whites and orange flower-water till they become a fine paste, then add to it a little vegetable green, so as to give it a soft, green color. (129). BABA PASTE (Pâte à Baba). Sift a pound of flour on the table, divide it in four even parts and use one of these to make the leaven by forming it in a circle and placing three quarters of an ounce of yeast in the center, diluting with a little warm milk to obtain a soft paste; roll this into a ball, cut it crosswise on the top with two cuts of the knife and lay it in a flour ed vessel; cover with a cloth and leave to rise in a mild temperature to double its size. Pile the remainder of the flour into a hillock, make a hole in the center to form a hollow and in it lay an ounce of sugar, a spare half ounce of salt (according to the saltness of the butter ), six ounces of butter and six eggs. Mix all the ingredients well together and work the flour in slowly, then begin to knead the paste so that it becomes smooth and acquires a body slowly adding three more eggs and four ounces of butter; continue to knead until again quite smooth with plenty of body, then mix in the leaven, wrapping it lightly in the paste and cutting the whole in every direction until thoroughly mingled and the paste is finished, then add to it two ounces of seeded Malaga raisins, two ounces of Sultana or Smyrna currants softened in water, two ounces of cherries cut in four and two ounces of finely cut up citron. Lay the paste in a vessel, cover with a cloth and let rise to a third more than its size, then break it up with a spoon; the paste is now ready to be used. (130). BRIOCHE PASTE (Pâte à Brioche). Take one pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of butter, seven to eight eggs, half an ounce of yeast, two pinches of salt, four pinches of sugar, two spoonfuls of brandy and some water. Dissolve the yeast in half a pint of tepid water, and with this liquid and a quarter of a pound of the flour, make a rather thick paste, put it into a small saucepan with a little lukewarm water at the bottom, and let it rise in a slack heater. Sift the remainder of the flour on the table, form a hollow and put in the center, the salt, sugar, brandy, two spoonfuls of water, three of the eggs and the butter; mix together thoroughly with the hand, and incorporate gradually the flour so as to obtain a smooth paste, then beat sharply with the hands for a quarter of an hour, adding the rest of the eggs one at the time. Beat it well against the table to let it acquire a body; then lay out the paste and spread the yeast over, fold it up to enclose the yeast and break it into small pieces with the hands; pile up the broken pieces, cut the paste once more, and put the pieces as quickly as they are cut into a flour ed vessel, cover it and set it to rise in a moderate temperature, until it will be raised to twice its original size; this will take at least six hours. Set the paste again on the flour ed table, break it up and refold it several times with the hands, return it to the vessel, cover and put it back once more in the same place to rise. Break the paste up again three hours later, put it back into the vessel, and this time set it either in a cool place or on the ice to become firm. It should now be left at least three hours before using. (131). COOKED PASTE FOR FANCIFUL BORDERS (Pâte Cuite Pour Bordures de Fantaisies). Boil one pint of water with a quarter of a pound of butter and a grain of salt; as soon as the liquid boils remove it from the fire, and incorporate in one pound of flour so as to obtain a good paste, then replace it on to a moderate fire and stir vigorously until it detaches from the bottom of the saucepan, then remove it entirely and pour it on to a flour ed table; as soon as it cools off slightly, knead it with the hands, adding to it slowly one pound more flour; by this time the paste should be perfectly smooth; after it has obtained a consistency, turn it the same as puff paste (No. 146), giving it seven or eight turns, having the paste remarkably smooth; it must be used at once. (132). CREAM CAKE PASTE (Pâte à Chou). Put into a saucepan half a pint of water, a grain of salt, one ounce of sugar and two ounces of butter; set the saucepan on the fire and when the butter floats, remove the pan from off the range, and incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fine flour, stir vigorously not to have it the least lumpy, and put it back on to a slow fire to dry until it detaches easily from the bottom, then take it off once more, and mix in a tablespoonful of orange flower-water; four or five minutes later stir in four or five eggs, adding them one at the time; it must now be more consistent than otherwise, and if a little of it should be dropped from the spoon, it must retain its shape and not spread. (133). DRESSING PASTE (Pâte à Dresser). Sift a pound of flour on the table, arrange it in a circle and in the center lay half an ounce of salt, four ounces of butter and a gill of water; mix thoroughly, working the flour in as fast as possible. When the paste begins to attain a body, knead it thoroughly twice, mold it round, form, and leave in a cool place. (134). ENGLISH PASTE FOR BORDERS (Pâte Anglaise Pour Bordures). One pound of fecula, one pound of sugar, six egg-whites. Lay the fecula on the table, forming a hollow in the center, into this put the sugar, a little tepid water and six egg-whites, lightly whisked; make a very hard paste, set it in a cool place hermetically closed in a bag for about two hours. (135). FINE FOUNDATION, ORDINARY FOUNDATION OR SHORT AND FLAWN PASTES (Pâte à Foncer, Fine, Ordinaire ou Brisée et à Flans). Fine Foundation Paste. -Have one pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of butter, half a pint of cold water and half an ounce of salt. Sift the flour on a table, bring it all together and make a hollow in the center, spreading it with the hand, and in this space lay the butter, divided into small bits, half of the water and the salt; make a dough by mixing first the butter with the water, then drawing the flour into this wet part, a very little at the time, so as to obtain a paste neither lumpy nor too firm; if necessary, add the rest of the water, a very little at the time, mass it together, and knead it briskly two or three times. To knead dough is to put it in front of one, and push it little by little with the palms of both hands and pressing it hard against the table so as to get it smooth; after this is finished, bring it together again, detach carefully all the bits adhering to the table, and roll it into a ball with the hands, turning it in the left hand. Let the paste rest in the ice-box a quarter of an hour before using it. Ordinary Foundation or Short Paste is made with one pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pint of water and a third of an ounce of salt. Make a hollow in the center of the flour, put into this the butter, salt and half of the water; work well the paste, adding more water, knead it properly, then roll it into a ball on a flour ed table; cover and let rest for one hour. Flawn Paste. -One and one-quarter pounds of flour, three-quarters pound of butter, a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three or four egg-yolks; make the paste on the table, adding enough water so the paste will not be too firm; knead, bring together and leave to rest, being careful to cover it. (136). PROLLE PASTE OR SWEET (Pâte à Frolle ou pâte Sucrée). Arrange one pound of sifted flour in a circle on the table; in the center lay half a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, the peel of a lemon, chopped very fine, a pinch of salt, one whole egg and four to five yolks. Work the whole well together to obtain a smooth paste, kneading it twice; form into a ball and put aside in the icebox to rest. (137). FRYING BATTERS (Pâtes à Frire). No. 1. -Put into a vessel, half a pound of flour, a little salt, four tablespoonfuls of oil and three egg-yolks; dilute these with sufficient water at once, so as not to have to add any more, and the size of half an inch ball of compressed yeast dissolved in a little tepid water; mix till it becomes smooth and flows without being stringy; it should well cover the spoon. Lay a cloth over the vessel, and keep it in a moderate temperature. At the last moment add to it three beaten egg-whites. No. 2. -Place in a vessel half a pound of flour, a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of oil, diluted in tepid water, and then add a piece of compressed yeast the size of a half an inch ball, dissolved in a little water. Set the batter in a moderate temperature, and when it begins to ferment, add a handful of flour, salt, oil and water. The batter should be renewed every day without adding yeast; the fermentation produced by the batter will be sufficient to keep it light, and avoid the use of any more yeast. No. 3. -This is a finer preparation, intended for sweet dishes, etc. Take half a pound of flour, dilute it with tepid water, into which an ounce of butter has been melted, also salt; make a soft, very smooth batter and when it has cooled off, add to it half a gill of brandy, two egg-yolks and two whites, beaten to a stiff froth. No. 4. -This is frying batter with baking powder. Put five ounces of flour into a vessel, diluting it with two gills of tepid water, one tablespoonful of brandy, two of oil, a pinch of salt and one egg-yolk. When ready to use, add a small coffeespoonful of baking-powder and one egg-white, beaten to a stiff froth. (138). MACAROON PASTE (Páte à Macarons). Made with one pound of peeled and well dried almonds, three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar and eight egg-whites. Pound the almonds with the sugar and part of the whites, so as to obtain a not too fine paste, then gradually add the remainder of the whites; work the paste well to have it obtain plenty of consistence. (139). MARCHPANE PASTE WITH ORANGE-FLOWER WATER (Pâte Massepain à l'eau de Fleur d'Oranger). One pound of almonds, one pound of sugar, one gill of orange flower-water and the juice of one lemon. Peel the almonds, wash them in cold water, drain on a cloth and pound them with the orange flower-water, adding the sugar and the lemon-juice; obtain a very fine paste and put it into a small saucepan to dry on a slow fire, turning it steadily until all the moisture evaporates and it detaches from the sides and bottom of the pan. A round bottomed saucepan or basin is far preferable to the flat ones, which are in general use. (140). PLAIN MERINGUE PREPARATION AND WITH COOKED SUGAR (Pâte à Meringue Ordinaire et Avec Sucre Cuit). The preparation for meringues is composed of twelve or fifteen egg-whites for each pound of powdered sugar; set these whites in a basin with a grain of salt and beat up with a whip, very slowly at first, but increasing the velocity of the movement as the quantity becomes greater. The beaten whites should be stiff and remarkably smooth; then mix in the sugar a little at a time, using a wooden spoon for the purpose. Italian Meringue with Cooked Sugar. -Cook one pound of sugar to "ball" (No. 171) ; incorporate a very little of it at a time into six beaten whites, without ceasing to stir; when all the sugar is absorbed work it for two minutes longer on a slow fire to have it very smooth. (141). MILAN PASTE (Pâte à Milan). Form a hollow in the center of a pound of flour on the table, lay in it half a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, a little salt and three eggs; mix well and knead the dough twice, then put it aside to rest in a cool place. (142). NOODLE PASTE, NOODLE PASTE FOR BORDERS AND REPèRE PASTE FOR FASTENING (Pâte à Nouilles, Pâte à Nouilles pour Bordures et à Repère pour Coller). Noodle Paste. -Make a ring on the table with a pound of sifted flour, in the center lay a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of tepid water and five beaten eggs; mix the eggs in slowly with the flour and then wrap the paste in a cloth, leave it to rest for fifteen minutes and afterward knead it well to have it smooth; this requires some time to do. Noodle Paste for Borders. -The same preparation as for the above, the only difference being that the five whole eggs are replaced by ten yolks. This paste can also be used for covering dish bottoms. Paste for Fastening on Borders (Repère). -This is simply sifted flour diluted with beaten egg and passed through a fine wire sieve to obtain a sufficiently liquid paste that can be pushed through a cornet. It should be consistent enough not to run. (143). OFFICE PASTE (Pâte d'office). Sift one pound of flour on the table, make a hollow in the center, and in this lay half a pound of sugar, two whole eggs and four yolks. Mix all together to form a smooth paste, knead it twice, and let it rest in a cool place before using it. (144). PIE PASTE (COLD) (Pâte à Pâté) (froid). This is prepared with melted butter as follows: Sift a pound of flour, form a hollow in the center and in it lay four egg-yolks and the third of an ounce of salt dissolved in a little water. Melt eight ounces of butter, pour the clear part slowly into the hollow, then work the flour gradually into it, adding the necessary water and knead the paste at ounce, roll it into a ball and leave to cool. This paste is far mellower than when made with cold butter. Another proportion for cold pie paste is to have one pound of flour, four ounces of butter, four eggs, tepid water and salt; prepare and finish as above. (145). PASTES FOR HOT PIES (Pâtes à Pâtés Chaud). Lay in a circle on the table one pound of sifted flour; make a hollow in the center and into this put a third of an ounce of salt dissolved in a little water, eight ounces of butter, two egg-yolks and two gills of water. Mix first the butter with the eggs and water, add the flour working it in a little at the time, also pour in a little water as it becomes necessary, being careful not to get the paste too thin, and still avoid being too dry, otherwise it will not hold together well; knead the dough twice, detach it from the table and form it into a ball on the flour ed table, and when smooth, cover and let it rest. Another recipe is: one pound of flour, eight ounces of butter, half a pint of water, four egg-yolks, and a third of an ounce of salt dissolved in water; to be prepared the same as the above. (146). PUFF PASTE AND HALF PUFF PASTE (Pâte Feuilletée et demi Feuilletée). This paste is actually not so very difficult to make, only it requires particular attention. Weigh one pound of the very best quality, not too fresh, but well dried flour; one pound of butter, well drained and cooled on the ice, then kneaded in a cloth to make it become flexible. Sift the flour on to the table, arrange it in a circle, and put into this one teaspoonful of salt and a glassful of water. With the right hand mix gradually the liquid with the flour, adding more water when necessary, so as to obtain a smooth, even paste, soft in preference to hard, and of a consistency neither stringy nor ropy; as soon as the dough is made, knead it well for two minutes, detaching all the small particles from the table, but if the paste be well made it should adhere neither to the table nor to the hand; cover it with a cloth and let it rest for twelve minutes. Dredge the table lightly with flour, lay the paste on top, and roll it out square shaped, roll out the butter likewise, lay it in the center of the paste, on top, then bring the four outer edges back on to the butter so as to inclose it well ( Fig. 64); take a pastry rolling pin, apply it on the paste, and using the two hands push the paste and butter forward, rolling it out to the thickness of three sixteenths of an inch or thereabout, keeping it straight on both sides as represented in the following design ( Fig. 65). Fold this band into three, press it down with the rolling pin to compress it, the accompanying design will show how to fold it ( Fig. 66). The paste has now only received one turn; to fold it once more, give it a half turn so as to lengthen it to the same thickness, but in a contrary direction, as thin as before; then fold the paste in three, cover it and let it rest for ten or twelve minutes; the paste will now have received two turns, then give it two turns more, exactly the FIG. 64. An illustration of The top of a Table with a Rectangular Piece of Bread Dough Laying on it. FIG. 65. An illustration of Two Hands Rolling the Dough with a Long Round Stick, on the Top of a Table. FIG. 66. An illustration of Different Stages in making a Puff Paste. same as the others, and let it rest each time for ten minutes. Before giving the last two necessary turns to fine puff paste, it must have already had six, if more are given it will be found detrimental to its delicacy. One special obstacle to be absolutely avoided during the operation is not to let any butter whatever escape from the folds of the paste, which might easily occur if the paste happens to be too soft, if rolled out too thin, if not rolled out regularly in smooth layers, and if it is thicker on one side than the other. In summer it is very difficult to obtain good puff paste without the use of ice or at least without a cold cellar; in any way this inconvenience can be obviated by substituting good beef kidney suet for butter. This fat must first be skinned, then soaked in cold water, well drained, and pounded in a mortar, so as to convert it to a smooth paste, and then made supple by working it with the hands for a few minutes while wrapped in a cloth. If the paste should be made in moist, summer weather it must be laid on a cold baking sheet dredged with flour, and put aside in the ice box. For Half puff paste. -The parings from puff paste make an excellent half paste. If this paste should have to be made, prepare a dough of three-quarters of a pound of butter for one pound of flour, operating exactly the same as for the puff paste, but giving it seven or eight turns instead of six. (147). RAVIOLE PASTE (Pâte à Raviole). Lay a pound of sifted flour on the table, form a hollow in the center and in it place one ounce of salt, four eggs, two ounces of butter and a little tepid water. Another proportion is one pound of flour, one ounce of salt, two eggs, one ounce of butter, two heaping tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan and a little tepid water. The paste should be soft, yet not too firm, knead it well to have it smooth, lay it on a board, cover with a cloth and let it rest in a cool place for one hour, then roll out and finish making the ravioles. (148). SAVARIN PASTE {Pâte à Savarin). One pound of flour, half a pound of melted butter, four ounces of sugar, eight eggs, six yolks, half an ounce of yeast, half a gill of raw cream, and a pinch of salt. Sift some of the flour into a warm vessel, and make a soft leaven with a quarter of the flour and the yeast, dilute it with tepid water, and cover it with some more of the flour, then leave it to rise in a warm temperature. When the leaven has risen to half its original size, break up the dough with the hands, and work into it gradually, and one by one the eggs and the remainder of the flour, then knead the dough vigorously for ten minutes to give it a body, add to it slowly the melted butter, afterward the sugar and salt, and lastly the raw cream; the zest of lemon chopped or grated may be added if desired. (149). TART PASTE (Pâte à Tarte). Make a paste on the table with three-quarters of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of arrowroot or fecula, half a pound of butter, three egg-yolks, two gills of cold water and a tablespoonful of sugar, adding a little salt. When the paste is smooth, wrap it up in a cloth, and leave it to rest for twenty-five minutes. (150). TIMBALE PASTE (Pâte à Timbale). Mix one pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of butter, four or five egg-yolks, one grain of salt, and one gill of water. Form a paste, reserving a little of the water. Knead it well, then add slowly the rest of the water, roll it out, and set it aside to rest under a cover. (151). SMALL PUFF PATTIES (Petits Pâtés Feuilletés). Make a puff paste the same as for puff paste (No. 146), giving it six turns, roll out the paste to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, let it rest awhile, then from it cut about fifteen round pieces, using a smooth pastry cutter one and three-quarters to two inches in diameter; collect the parings together at once, roll them out with the rolling pin to one-eighth of an inch thick, Fig. 67, FIG. 68, FIG. 69. An illustration of Different Utensils used in Cutting Pastry. and cut the same quantity of round pieces with the same cutter, turn them over on to a wet baking sheet in straight rows, a small distance apart, and lay on each one, a one to one and a quarter inch ball of veal Godiveau forcemeat, or one of fish, chicken, game, with or without chives. Moisten the paste around the garnishing, cover each one with the pieces that were cut first, pressing them down to make the two layers of paste adhere together all around the garnishing; flatten the paste with the back of a small one and a half inch pastry cutter, egg the tops using a soft brush, and cook these small patties in a well heated oven. (152). TO POACH QUENELLES, SMALL TIMBALES AND MOUSSELINES (Pour Pocher les Quenelles les Petites Timbales et les Mousselines). Quenelles. -Quenelles are poached by pouring hot (nearly boiling) water into a sautoire by the side of the quenelles, set the sautoire on the fire to bring the liquid to a boiling point, and at the first boil, cover the sautoire, remove it to the side of the range so that the water only quivers, and take out the quenelles with a skimmer as soon as they are firm. The length of time to poach quenelles depends upon their size; either ten to fifteen minutes. Dry them on a cloth before dressing. Small Timbales. -Range the timbales in a sautoire; fifteen minutes before serving, fill it to half the height of the molds with boiling water, and set the sautoire on the fire; when the water is ready to boil, remove and place it in a slack oven for ten or fifteen minutes; after a lapse of ten minutes touch the forcemeat in the center, and if firm, take them out, let stand for a little and invert the molds into a cloth to drain off all the liquid. Unmold. Mousselines. -Put these into a flat sautoire furnished with a perforated grater having the holes at regular spaces apart so that each one can receive a mold. The molds being rounded at the bottom, these holes are to keep them standing upright. Pour boiling water into the saucepan nearly sufficient to cover the height of the molds and stand it on the fire; when the water boils, remove and push it gently into a slack oven for ten or fifteen minutes, sufficient time to poach them slowly; they will be found done when touched in the center, they resist to the pressure of the finger, then take them from the water, stand them on one side to drain and unmold. If the oven be too hot the timbales rise, which must be avoided otherwise they lose their quality. (153). TO PRESS MEATS, GALANTINES, BREASTS, SWEETBREADS, ETC. (Pour Presser les Viandes, Galantines, Poitrines, Ris de veau, etc.). For Meat Juices. -Have a press as shown in Fig. 70. The meats intended for pressing should be done rare, but cooked through, so that all the juice can be extracted. There is also a press for pressing galantines, sweetbreads, etc. This one is made as represented in Fig. 71; besides, there should be a double series of strips of wood, five inches across; the thinnest being a quarter of an inch thick, and the thickest are five inches; these are for the purpose of receiving the movable shelf belonging to the press so that all the pressed articles will be even throughout. For galantines it is also necessary to have a dozen tinned, sheet-iron sheets, a sixteenth of an inch thick, twelve inches long and six inches wide. These sheets are to be used when there are several galantines to equalize their thickness so that they are all pressed uniformly. The size of the press is thirty-eight inches high, twenty-eight inches wide and sixteen inches deep; the screw to be twenty-six inches long, and the wheel one foot in diameter. Press to the required thickness by arranging the strips either higher or lower; for galantines they are put an inch lower than the galantine itself; turn the screw slowly until the movable shelf rests on the two strips which are the thickness required. FIG. 70, FIG. 71. An illustration of Different Kinds of Presses used for Pressing Meats. Sweetbreads are pressed either in round or oval molds, proportionate to the size of the sweetbreads; place these molds, one beside the other, on a shelf of the same dimension as the movable one and fill each one with a piece of unlarded, braised sweetbread just sufficiently large enough to fill up the mold when pressed. For Breast of Mutton or Lamb, Braised and Cooked. -Range them on a board and press with a half inch thick strip on both sides to receive the movable shelf the same as the sweetbreads. Beef Tongues are placed in a mold the shape of the tongue, it being two inches thick, eight and a half inches long and three and a half inches on its widest part. Molds containing two, four, or six tongues can be had. Boned Hams are pressed in oval timbale molds. Corned Beef in square molds, two and a half inches deep. (154). TO PREPARE DECORATED QUENELLES, MOLDED QUENELLES AND POCKET QUENELLES (Pour Préparer les Quenelles Décorées, Moulées et à la Poche). Large decorated quenelles are used as a garnishing or to complete relevé garnishings; they can be prepared with chicken, game or fish forcemeat. These quenelles are made on pieces of buttered white paper, shaping them to any desired form with a small knife while smoothing the surfaces neatly. Large quenelles are usually decorated with truffles or red beef tongue, the former being preferable. The truffle decoration can be applied on to the quenelles either before or after poaching; in the first case the decorations are slightly incrusted into the forcemeat after wetting them with egg-white; the quenelles are then plunged into boiling water with the paper they have been molded on. If the quenelles are to be decorated after poaching then the pieces must be simply applied on, but first cover, or, better still, dampen one side with soft forcemeat so that they can adhere. Quenelles are poached in salted water without allowing it to boil. FIG. 73, FIG. 73, FIG. 74. An illustration of Different Patterns of Quenelles for the Purpose of Decorating. Molded. - Butter some plain, oval-shaped, quenelle molds, using slightly melted butter; decorate the bottom of the mold the same as shown in the design. If required to be stuffed, then place a layer of forcemeat on the decoration and over this any salpicon whatever (see salpicons, No. 165), and finish to fill the mold; smooth the tops, stand the molds on a baking pan, pour enough boiling water in to fill the pan to half the height of the molds and then poach in a slack oven. These molds are simply buttered, filled with forcemeat, smoothed on top and poached. FIG. 75, FIG. 76, FIG. 76A. An illustration of Different Molds of Fancy Shapes and Designs used in Making Quenelles. Pocket Quenelles. -Mix together half as much quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), as cream forcemeat (No. 75), incorporating the latter gradually into the former, pass it all once more through a fine sieve, and fill a strong paper cornet with a third part of this forcemeat, push small quarter inch quenelles the shape of beads on to a buttered sheet, and then poach them in boiling, salted water. Color half of the remaining forcemeat with a little vegetal carmine, of a fine, light red color, and put this also into a paper cornet, and force them through on to another buttered sheet, letting these quenelles be channeled shaped, poach in salted, boiling water. Color the remainder of the forcemeat with spinach green or vegetal green to obtain a light pistachio color, and set them into a paper cornet also, and with it form oval shaped quenelles on to a buttered sheet, pour over some boiling, salted water, and let them poach for a few minutes. These quenelles are used as garnishings for soups, and for a variety of entrées. FIG. 77, FIG. 78, FIG. 79. An illustration of Different Patterns Quenelles.. (155). TO MOLD QUENELLES WITH A SPOON, EITHER PLAIN, FILLED OR ROLLED IN FLOUR (Pour Mouler les Quenelles à la Cuillère, Simples, Fourées ou Roulées à la Farine). Select two common, large and very thin iron soup spoons, put one of these into a small panful of hot water, and taking the other in the left hand fill the hollow center with the forcemeat, smooth the top with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water, arranging it in such a manner that there is as much forcemeat above as below the level of the spoon, then remove the quenelles with the hot spoon sliding it beneath the forcemeat, then slip it at once on to the bottom of a buttered sautéing pan, without turning it over, so that the same side is on top. If the quenelles are wanted filled, prepare a montglas composed of mushrooms, tongue, truffles or foies-gras; thicken it with some very compact reduced, good brown sauce, so that when cold the preparation can be divided into small parts, and rolled into olive shaped pieces in the hand; in this case, when the spoon is filled with forcemeat, make a small hole with the finger on the surface so as to insert the montglas, salpicon or purée, cover over with more forcemeat, being careful that it is the same thickness all over the filling, smooth it down nicely, and remove the quenelle with the hot spoon to slip it on to the bottom of a buttered sautéing pan without turning it over. Generally for one pound it will take eight large soup-spoonfuls, or sixteen dessert-spoons, or thirty-two tea-spoons, or sixty-four coffee-spoons. Poach these quenelles by pouring hot water into the sautéing pan beside the quenelles, and set the pan on the fire to bring it to boiling point; at the first boil, move it on one side, so that the water only simmers for six to fourteen minutes, according to their size. Lift the quenelles with a skimmer, and drain them on a cloth before using them. FIG. 80. An illustration of Two Hands Holding a Spoon Each. Spoon in the Right Hand is Tilted towards the Spoon in the Left Hand. FIG. 81, FIG. 82, FIG. 83, FIG. 84. An illustration of Quenelles in Different Shapes. To Prepare Quenelles Rolled in Flour. -Divide some game, chicken or fish forcemeat into pieces; roll each one on a flour dredged table into strings three-quarters of an inch in diameter; cut these into pieces three-quarters of an inch long; roll them on the table to give each one the shape of an olive or small egg half an inch in thickness and one inch in length. Larger ones can be made of Godiveau an inch and three-quarters long by five-eighths in thickness. Poach the quenelles in boiling water with salt added to it. The Godiveau quenelles are poached by ranging them at equal distances on a baking tin covered with a sheet of paper, then placing it in very slack oven. (156). TO RAISE, PARE AND POACH BREASTS OF POULTRY AND GAME (Pour Lever, Parer et Pocher les Filets de Volaille et de Gibier à Plumes). Cut off the pinions from a clean, singed chicken, split the breast skin from one end to the other in the center, open it so as to disclose the flesh, then detach the breasts with a small knife following the breast-bone, and leaving the minion fillets adhering to them, removing them later if not needed. Take these breasts one by one, lay them the smoothest side uppermost on a table, press them down with the left hand and slip the blade of a knife between the flesh and the skin, so as to remove the latter at one pull without breaking it. Beat the breasts lightly with a damp knife handle, trim them in round half hearts on one end, and pointed on the other; remove the inside nerve, and the fine skin from the minion fillet, beat these lightly and lay them on the inside surface of the breasts, if found necessary to enlarge them, but unless the breasts are very small, they are not added. They can be interlarded either with slices of truffle or tongue, by cutting five or six incisions across the minion-fillet and garnishing them with either of these. Proceed exactly in the same manner for breasts of game. To Poach. -Place the breasts of poultry or game in a buttered sauteing pan; turn all the points toward the center and on them, place a sheet of buttered paper, put on the cover and set the pan in a slack oven leaving it in long enough to poach according to their size and quality. (157). TO CLEAN CURRANTS, MALAGA AND SMYRNA RAISINS (Pour Nettoyer les Raisins de Corinthe, les Raisins de Malaga, et de Smyrne). Lay the currants on a table mixing in with them some flour, rub well together, then shake them through a coarse sieve, (No. 95) having eight meshes so that the small currant stalks pass through; wash well and dry them, then pick them over to free them of all the gravel stones which are generally to be found in these fruits, as well as the large stalks adhering to them. Smyrna (Sultana) raisins are cleaned the same as currants; abstain from washing them. Seed Malaga raisins and pick off the stalks. (158). RAVIOLES (Ravioles). Roll out some raviole paste (No. 147) , very thin and in a perfect square; lay on top half an inch from the edge and one inch apart some chicken raviole forcemeat balls (No. 93) , three-quarters of an inch in diameter, after the entire flat is covered, moisten it lightly by passing a brush around the forcemeat balls and then place another flat of paste on top, it to be the same thickness as the under one and about four inches wider. Press on to this upper paste between the balls of forcemeat with a ruler and the whole length of the flat and then across so that every one of the balls is enclosed in a small square; cut each of these out with a channeled wheel or jagger ( Fig. 87). The jaggers are used for cutting lattice work bands for pies, or else replace it by a round channeled pastry cutter. Lay the cut pieces on a flour dredged saucepan lid and then drop them into boiling water to poach for about twelve minutes. FIG. 85. An illustration of a Top of a Table Nicely Arranged with Small Balls Made of Ravioli Paste. FIG. 86. An illustration of a Top of a Table Nicely Arranged with Small Balls Made of Ravioli Paste. FIG. 87. An illustration of a Jagger Used for Cutting Paste and Dough. (159). TO REDUCE AND STRAIN SAUCES THROUGH A TAMMY (Pour Réduire les Sauces et les Passer à l'Étamine). Fig. 88. An illustration of Two People Straining Liquid from a Piece of Cloth into a Wooden Sink. The reason sauces are reduced is to give them the delicacy and succulence necessary to their finish, by incorporating into them fumets, stocks and the required condiments. The stocks that are to be added to the sauces in order to reduce them should be as concentrated as possible so as to avoid any superfluous labor. In order to reduce a strained, despumated sauce, pour it into a flat saucepan having a thick bottom, set it on a brisk fire and let the sauce boil while stirring it well with a spatula, and pressing it down in a way that the sauce will fail to adhere to the bottom, and therefore burn. Mix in gradually the stock needed for its improvement, and continue to boil until it has acquired the necessary consistency and succulence, then take it off, and strain it through a tammy. (160). RICE FOR CROUSTADES AND RICE WITH CREAM (Riz Pour Croustades et riz à la Crème). Pick well four pounds of Carolina rice, put it into a newly tinned saucepan without washing it, adding a half pound piece of fresh pork, moisten it to three times its height with some water; heat the liquid on a moderate fire, and at the first boil, remove it to a slower one; twenty minutes after when the liquid is nearly all absorbed, cover the rice with a heavy buttered paper, close the saucepan, and set it at the opening of a slack oven, finish cooking the rice, drying it thoroughly, then remove the saucepan from the oven, take out the piece of pork, and work the rice while still in the saucepan, using a spatula for the purpose, then pound it again in a mortar so as to reduce it to a smooth paste. Lay this rice on a dampened marble slab, or a thick baking sheet, knead it with the hands so that it becomes smooth, mold it round shaped, and set it in a saucepan, buttered over with a brush, or else a mold proportionate to the size needed for the croustade. Press the rice down well, cover the top with a round sheet of buttered paper, and set it in the ice box for seven or eight hours, but not allowing the saucepan or mold to touch the ice. Unmold the rice after dipping the saucepan in hot water, cutting it out with a knife. Rice with Cream. -Blanch for a few moments half a pound of fine, picked and washed rice; drain and refresh, then put it back into the saucepan and moisten it with one quart of boiled milk in which a stick of vanilla has been infused. Let the liquid come again to a boil, cover the saucepan, and finish cooking the whole very slowly for forty minutes. When the rice is tender and has absorbed all the liquid, add to it a pinch of salt, three ounces of sugar, two ounces of fresh butter and a few spoonfuls of whipped cream. Sometimes a few egg-yolks are added to this rice, if so, they must be put in before any other of the ingredients, while the rice has all its heat, so that the eggs can cook while in the act of stirring them. (161). TO PREPARE RISSOLES (Pour Préparer les Rissoles). Rissoles are prepared in two different ways, the first, by rolling out some fine paste or clippings of puff paste, into a long, thin piece from ten to fourteen inches wide; wet the bottom edges of this paste, then lay on it four balls of an inch and a quarter in diameter for the two and three-quarter inch rissoles made of rissole preparation, and from two and three-eighths inches distance apart from each other, and two inches from the edges; refold the paste forward, so as to cover up the prepared balls, and fasten the paste down to six-eighths of an inch around the balls; press on the two layers of paste to adhere them together, then cut out the rissoles half circular with a channeled pastry-cutter either two and one-quarter, two and one-half or two and three-quarters inches in diameter. As soon as the rissoles of the first row are cut, lay them aside; pare the edges of the paste and begin the operation again; reduce the height of the cut out rissoles by pressing them down with the finger without mishaping them. These rissoles may now be breaded and dipped in egg, or left white; in the first case, lay them simply on a tin sheet covered with a white paper till ready to fry. In the second, place them at some distance apart on a flour ed cloth so that the paste cannot adhere to it. To prepare rissoles differently, roll out a thin flat, cut it into small round pieces with a channeled pastry-cutter either two and one-quarter, two and one-half or two and three-quarters inches in diameter, and on each one of these, lay a prepared rissole ball; wet the paste all round, and fold the piece of paste over the ball fastening the two edges together. Press the tops lightly with the fingers, keeping them a good shape, and lay the unbreaded ones on a flour ed cloth, and the breaded ones on white paper. FIG. 89, FIG. 90. An illustration of Rissoles Cut in Fancy Shapes. (162). TO CUT ROOTS WITH A SPOON AND WITH A VEGETABLE CUTTER (Couper les Racines à la Cuillère et à la Machine). Peel or scrape carrots, peel turnips, celery roots, turnip-cabbage or kohl-rabi, sweet potatoes or common potatoes ; wash and keep them into cold water until needed; all of these vegetables including peeled truffles can be cut olive shaped or in rounds large or small according to requirements ( Fig. 91). The rounds should be from a quarter of an inch to one inch in diameter; the long ovals from half an inch to one and a quarter inches. The oval spoons for this purpose may be either plain or channeled. When cutting vegetables with a spoon into either balls or olives dip the sharp end of the spoon into the thickest part of the root all through the depth and endeavor to remove the pieces as whole and perfect as possible. FIG. 91, FIG. 92. An illustration of a Spoon and a Vegetable Cutter. Vegetable Cutter. -( Fig. 92). This utensil is simple, practical and useful. It is used for cutting vegetables and roots into various shapes for soups or garnishing; having them pass by pressure through the deep cutters made of steel and movable so they can be easily changed when so desired. To proceed, first cut the roots into thin slices, all of equal thickness; place one of these on any one of the selected cutters; put this under the press and bear heavily on it. The pieces will fall through; pick out the imperfect ones; the others are ready to use. (163). BLONDE AND BROWN ROUX (Roux blond et brun). Roux is flour fried in butter and allowed to attain more or less color; it is used for thickening gravies, soup stocks and sauces; there are two kinds of roux, the blonde and the brown; the blonde is made as follows: Put into a saucepan to melt, one pound and two ounces of butter, add to it one pound of sifted flour and place the saucepan on a moderate fire to let it cook slowly while stirring until it becomes of a light blonde; this is used for velouté. For the brown, leave it on the fire or in a slack oven until it assumes a darker color; should it not be necessary to use it at once, pour it into a vessel, and employ it as needed, but when required for immediate use, take it from the fire, leave it in the pan and let it lose a few degrees of its heat before moistening it. For a velouté, dilute it with a white velouté stock, and a brown espagnole stock if needed for brown; the proportions for both velouté and espagnole being: one pound and two ounces of butter, one pound of flour and four quarts of either white or brown stock. (164). RUM FLAVORED WITH VANILLA; SPIRIT OF STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES AND APRICOTS (Rhum Vanillé; Esprit de Fraises, Framboises et Abricots). Rum flavored with Vanilla. -Put twelve vanilla beans cut in pieces in a quart bottle with a quarter of a pint of boiling water, twelve hours later fill up the bottle with good rum and leave it for ten days; it will then be ready for use. Spirit of Strawberries, etc. -Crush thirty pounds of strawberries or raspberries; to this pulp add three quarts of spirits of wine, put into an earthen crock, cover and leave to infuse for fifteen days. Distill the fruits in an alembic in a bain-marie and continue the distillation until the liquor reaches twenty degrees. Spirit of apricots is made the same way only taking twenty pounds of fruit instead of thirty for each three quarts of spirit. The fruits are pressed through a sieve and the kernels broken and crushed in a mortar, then mixed in with the apricots. (165). SALPICON; HOW TO PREPARE (Salpicon; Manière de le Préparer). Salpicons are prepared with cooked and cold meats and fish, red beef tongue, sweetbreads or beef palates; they are also made of chicken or game fillets, foies-gras, also with truffles, mushrooms, cèpes, and besides these, oysters, lobsters, crawfish, etc. The characteristic of salpicon is that it is cut into small squares; they may be prepared with one kind of substance alone, but are generally mixed, for example: chickens, with red beef tongue, truffles or mushrooms; game, with foies-gras or truffles, and fish, with mushrooms and truffles. Salpicons are always thickened with a sauce corresponding to the nature of the meat, and in all cases it must be succulent and condensed. (166). TO SCALD (Échander). In an analogous sense, scalding means to dip, to plunge in boiling water. A pig, a suckling pig, calf 's head and feet of either the calf or sheep, chicken's legs and even whole poultry is scalded. To scald a pig is to detach the bristles adhering to its back by means of hot water, done by dipping it once or twice in hot water to facilitate pulling them out more readily, then scrape the surface with a knife; this operation must be performed as quickly as possible. The same to be done for calf 's feet and head, also for sheep and lamb's trotters. Poultry is sometimes scalded, but this system of treatment should be completely abandoned and the feathers picked off dry, this being far superior to the scalding process; for by scalding poultry, especially young chickens they become partially cooked and the skin is apt to tear when being trussed; they also contract a bad taste and decompose quicker than those that are dry picked. (167). SIEVE-CLOTH OF DIFFERENT SIZE MESHES (Toile à Tamis de Différentes Grosseurs). Fig. 93 (four mesh) is used for broken and coarsely chopped almonds; Fig. 94 (six mesh) is used for Mocha sugar, finely chopped almonds and raisins; Fig. 95 (eight mesh) is used for bread crumbs; Fig. 96 (twelve mesh) is used for powdered macaroons, purées and marmalades; Fig. 97 (sixteen mesh) is used for sugar, flour and purées; Fig. 98 (twenty-eight mesh) is used for icing sugar. A mesh indicates the number of holes to each linear inch. FIG. 93, FIG. 94, FIG. 95, FIG. 96, FIG. 97, FIG. 98. An illustration of Different Kinds of Sieves Used for Different Size of Meshes. (168). SPICES, AROMATICS, AND SEASONINGS FOR COOKING PURPOSES (Épices, Aromates et Assaisonnements pour la Cuisine). The different articles employed as seasonings in kitchen work are comprised of salt, spices, aromatics, butter, fat, vinegar, oil and mustard. Salt is without exception the most indispensable seasoning; it removes the insipid taste from meats, vegetables and all other eatables. It excites the appetite and helps digestion, but of course must be used with judgment, for too much is apt to make it unhealthy. Coarse salt is the one to be used for cooking boiled meats and vegetables. Finely pulverized white salt is for table use and the one used in kitchens for seasoning is merely crushed and sifted purified salt. Spices are of different kinds; they are void of nutritious properties and are only for the purpose of improving the taste of various foods. They are composed of common black and white pepper, cayenne pepper; then come the weaker spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and coriander. For seasoning, common raw pepper, ground only when ready to use is both agreeable and a tonic, but as much cannot be said for pepper cooked in stews, sauces or soups, for it loses its aroma while cooking and therefore only the acridity remains. Peppers that do not deteroriate while cooking are paprika (a Hungarian product), and red pepper; these both give a most agreeable flavor to stews and sauces, increasing as the cooking proceeds, and either of them are agreeable to the taste and a tonic without producing any irritating results. Aromatics. -Among the most aromatic plants used in the kitchen must be mentioned bay leaf, marjoram, chives, sage, thyme, wild thyme, savory, tarragon, pimpernel, chervil, pepper -cress, parsley, onion, shallot, garlic and horseradish root. Some of these are used in a dry state, others in a fresh, and both are employed in numerous preparations. They can be used in sautés, braizés, in sauces and even in soups. The action of these aromatics on the general health is only injurious when indulged in injudiciously or in too large quantities, but when employed with a certain reserve, they are both healthy, stimulating and agreeable. Curry, the Best, comes from India. -An imitation curry is made of one ounce of coriander seeds, two ounces of cayenne, a quarter of an ounce of cardamon seeds, one ounce salt, two ounces of tumeric, one ounce ginger, half an ounce of mace and a third of an ounce of saffron. Prepared Red Pepper is made with paprika (Hungarian red pepper ), and Spanish sweet pimentos mixed in equal quantities. In case paprika cannot be had use quarter cayenne pepper and three-quarters Spanish pimentos. Spices. -Before grinding spices be careful that they are the freshest; grind each kind separately and sift them through a silk sieve, then mix thoroughly and put them into hermetically closed bottles, and set these in a cool place (they are only to be mixed when ready to use). Spices for Bread Stuffing, use two ounces of sage, one ounce of marjoram, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, half an ounce of allspice, one ounce of thyme, two ounces of white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of nutmeg, and half an ounce of finely minced green celery leaf. Spices for Game Pies, and Galantines are one pound of cinnamon, one pound of nutmeg, one pound of cloves, one pound of whole peppers, three ounces of cayenne pepper, three ounces of sweet Spanish pepper, three ounces of thyme and three ounces of bay leaf. These spices should be mixed in the proportion of one ounce to a pound of salt. Spices for General Use. -Two ounces of cinnamon, two ounces of nutmeg, two ounces of cloves, two ounces of white pepper, twelve ounces of red pepper, four ounces of mace, two ounces of thyme, two ounces of sage, two ounces of marjoram, two ounces of rosemary. One ounce of spices to two pounds of salt. Spices for Turtle Soup. -Two ounces of curry, half an ounce of thyme, two ounces dry mushrooms, half an ounce of sage, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce garden citron, half an ounce of basil, half an ounce marjoram, half of the peel of a chopped lemon, two ounces of white pepper. These aromatics and spices are used when there is no time to prepare a stock, or when preserved turtle has to be used. Two ounces of spices to one pound of salt. Spices for Goose Liver Patties (Pâté de foies gras). -Four ounces of nutmeg, four ounces of cloves, four ounces of basil, four marjoram, four of thyme, two and a half ounces of black pepper, three ounces of white pepper, two and one-third ounces of bay leaf, two and a half ounces of mace, two and a half ounces of ginger, two and a third of coriander seeds, one and two-thirds ounce of sweet pepper. One ounce of these mixed spices to every two pounds of salt. (169). STEARINE; HOW TO CAST AND COLOR IT (Stéarine; Manière de la Couler et de la Colorer). Casting stearine in plaster molds is most simple and only requires a little attention. Tinned copper molds should be smooth in the inside and even polished. Put all the plaster molds in a vessel after separating each piece and leave them in tepid water for half an hour or longer according to their size. For tinned copper molds coat them first with a thin layer of stearine, then place another layer on this first one and continue until the stearine be sufficiently thick. The stearine must be melted in a bain-marie or on a slow fire, being careful to keep it stirred and also not to heat it too violently so that it remains white, for if too greatly heated it turns yellow and thereby loses its beautiful white appearance; if this should happen it should only be used to coat the inside of large pieces or else for pads for filling the inside of borders. To cast stearine in plaster molds, take the molds from the water, drain them out for a moment and then fit each piece into its respective place; tie around firmly, fill up with the melted stearine and when a light crust has formed on the surface, break it and empty out the mold; let rest for one minute, put it back into the water, remove and unmold with the greatest care. Should the unmolded pieces fail to be smooth or else be creased, this is caused by the stearine not being sufficiently warm and the molds too cold, and that the stearine was cast too slowly. This is of great importance to observe and is most essential when perfection is required. When the objects intended for casting are frail, such as rings, arms, figures or other thin pieces, it will be advisable to insert thin wires into these parts before casting the stearine in the mold. After unmolding the subjects, wash the mold well, being careful that no particles of stearine remain in the joints, so that it can be thoroughly closed and the stearine cannot escape through these joints. Scrape the seams or moldings carefully. Stearine subjects can be colored with one or more colors; for this purpose use water paints (tubes in preference). This kind is mostly employed for this work and to it add a little beef gall to enable the paint to adhere on to the greasy surface. Use a soft badger brush and proceed with care; always wait until the first coat be dry before applying another. With a little taste and skill subjects can be painted so that a great effect is produced, especially for the larger ones. When required to be bronzed, mix a few drops of gum arab with a little of the gall, add bronze powder and a little water; stir well, keeping it the consistency of honey. Paint over the subject with a camel's hair brush and if one coat be not sufficient then give another, adding a little more water. (170). TO STRAIN PURÉES (Pour passer les purées). FIG. 90. An illustration of two People Straining a Piece of Cloth with a Spoon into a Wooden Sink. Vegetable, chicken, crustacean, and game purées are strained through a tammy ( Fig. 99) in order to obtain them as fine as possible. To accomplish this it will require the service of two persons: take hold of the tammy on both sides, pour the purée into its hollow center, then have two wooden spoons one laying in the other, and press them vigorously against the tammy, allowing the purée Fig. 99a, Fig. 99b. An illustration of Different Kinds of Wooden Strainers. to fall into a deep dish set underneath; this is easily accomplished and depends entirely upon the regular motion of the two spoons, as they must advance backward and forward without getting separated, or use either one of the machines shown in Figs. 99a and 99b. (171). TO COOK SUGAR (Pour cuire le sucre). In former days sugars were less refined than in our time, therefore it was most important that they should undergo the operation of clarification, or, as the very word implies rid them of their impurities and make them perfectly clear. To-day this operation is almost useless, however, in case of necessity we will give the exact manner of proceeding, for it may sometimes be found useful. Put twenty pounds of sugar into a copper basin, melt it with two-thirds of its quantity of water, or one-half pint of water to each pound of sugar, set it on the fire, and when the scum begins to rise, throw in some egg-whites beaten up with water, the proportions being one white for each quart of water; do not stir it again, but let it rise to the surface twice, then pour in half a pint of clear water without eggs; let it rise a third time, and as it does so, remove from off the fire and skim it. Return it to one side of the fire to let it boil and drive the scum on one side of the basin, skim this off as quickly as it gathers. Soon the sugar will become very fine, clear and transparent, but if otherwise, then let it boil till it clarifies thoroughly and pass it through the flannel bag. Sugar clarified by this process is ready to be submitted to all kinds of cooking which we explain further on. The cooking of sugar is easily measured by a thermometer, but a clever workman will quickly find it out by the mere touch. These various cookings take different names which we will now endeavor to explain. First -Lissé ou Petit Filet or Small Thread. -Cook the sugar, and in order to be sure that it has reached the first cooking, take out a little of the sugar with a spoon, dip the index finger in it and apply the finger to the thumb; separate the two fingers immediately, the sugar should then form a small thread, the thermometer marking two hundred and fifteen degrees Fahrenheit, (one hundred and one degrees Centigrade). Second -Grand Lissé or Large Thread. -At two hundred and seventeen degrees, the sugar stretches a little more between the fingers, it is now cooked to large thread (one hundred and two degrees Centigrade). Third -Petit Perlé or Little Pearl. -The sugar reaches this cooking when between the two fingers it stretches and forms a thread that breaks. The thermometer is then two hundred and twenty degrees (one hundred and five degrees Centigrade). Fourth -Grand Perlé or Large Pearl. -As soon as the sugar extends from one finger to the other without breaking it has reached large pearl, two hundred and twenty degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and six Centigrade). Fifth -Au soufflé ou Glue, or the Blow. -Dip a skimmer into the sugar, knock it at once against the edges of the basin, blow through the skimmer so as to make the small bubbles fly out, and when they do so properly, the sugar has reached its degree of cooking. The thermometer now marks two hundred and thirty degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and ten degrees Centigrade). Sixth -Petit Boulé or Small Ball. -Dip the finger first into cold water, then in the sugar, and immediately into water; if the sugar has reached to proper cooking or small ball, it can be rolled into a soft ball between the fingers, two hundred and thirty-six to two hundred and thirty-eight degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and fourteen to one hundred and fifteen degrees Centigrade). Seventh -Grand Boulé or Large Ball. -When the thermometer reaches two hundred and forty-six to two hundred and forty-eight degrees Fahrenheit or one hundred and nineteen to one hundred and twenty degrees Centigrade, then the ball instead of remaining soft when rolled between the fingers, becomes solid and hard, the sugar has now reached large ball. Eighth -Petit Cassé or Small Crack. -Dip the tip of the finger into cold water, then into the sugar and rapidly into cold water again, so as to detach it from the finger; if it has reached its proper cooking it should break. The thermometer is now two hundred and ninety degrees Fahrenheit (one hundred and forty-three degrees Centigrade). Ninth -Cassé or Crack. -Letting the sugar boil a few minutes longer, it will reach the crack; now dip the finger into cold water, then into the sugar, and again into the water, the sugar must break between the teeth without adhering to them. It reaches this degree when the thermometer is at three hundred and ten degrees Fahrenheit (or one hundred and fifty-four degrees Centigrade). Tenth. Grand Cassé or Large Crack or Caramel. -This last cooking is exceedingly delicate and requires the most particular care, so as to avoid having the sugar turn black which it is apt to do very easily. When reaching this last cooking, the sugar slightly loses its whiteness and assumes a shade scarcely perceptible to the eye; this is when the thermometer reaches three hundred degrees Fahrenheit, and it is now time to add to each twenty pounds of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Continue the cooking and when the thermometer reaches three hundred and forty-five to three hundred and fifty degrees Fahrenheit, then remove the basin quickly from the fire, and instantly pour its contents on a marble to get cold. These are the various degrees the cooking of sugar undergoes, practice alone makes perfect in this particular work, which can only be acquired after much study and attention. (172). SUGARS OF DIFFERENT COLORS, AND ICING SUGAR (Sucres de Différentes Couleurs et Sucre à glace Impalpable). For Pink, have powdered sugar from which icing sugar has been sifted, spread it on a baking-sheet covered with white paper, lay the tin on top of a very moderate fire, and pour into it sufficient carmine to give it the necessary color; mix and rub it slowly between the hands until the moisture contained in the carmine be entirely evaporated, then sift it through a sixteen mesh sieve ( Fig. 97). For Yellow. -Prepare the sugar the same as for the pink, using Breton vegetal yellow. For Orange. -The same as the pink, coloring with Breton vegetal orange, or yellow and red mixed to imitate orange. Lilac and Violet. -The same as the pink, coloring it with red and ultramarine blue, or else with Breton vegetal lilac or violet. Blue. -Breton vegetal blue and ultramarine blue. Green. -Breton vegetal green, or else spinach green or watercress green. Icing Sugar. -There are very few cities where powdered sugar is unobtainable, also icing sugar (confectionery sugar ), but in case it has to be prepared at home the following remarks will be found useful. Pound some lump sugar to the finest powder, pass it through an ordinary sieve, then through an icing sieve called a drum; this latter includes two sieves, one for passing ordinary sugar and another much finer for passing the icing sugar, meaning exceedingly fine powdered sugar almost impalpable. (173). BAND TART (Tourte à bande). Roll out on a flour ed table, a layer of foundation paste (No. 135), cut in this a round, eight inches in diameter, lay this round on a small baking-sheet, moisten the border with a brush, and apply on this wet part, a puff- paste border having received six turns, five-eighths of an inch in thickness, one and one-half inches wide and twenty-six inches long; cut the two ends bias, fasten them together after slightly dampening them and set the tart aside in a cool place for fifteen minutes. Prepare an egg wash of well beaten whole eggs, or the yolks alone diluted in a little cold water, apply it to the border, prick the inside or else put in a small mold, to prevent it inflating, then set the tart in a hot oven the same as for a vol-au-vent for thirty or forty minutes. After removing it from the fire, detach it from the sheet, and lay it on a dish to keep warm. FIG. 100. An illustration of a Round Mold. (174). EMPTY TARTS, ANCIENT STYLE (Tourtes à l'Ancienne). Spread on a baking-sheet a layer of foundation paste eight inches in diameter; wet the edges of this crust using a brush, and lay on the center a spherical shaped pad, four and three-quarters in diameter and two and one-half high, made of paper and wrapped in slices of fat pork. Cover this pad with an upper layer of paste made with puff- paste clippings, fasten the upper and lower crusts together by pressing them down with the thumb, and cut away the surplus paste with the tip of a small knife, following the outlines of the lower crust. Moisten the edges of the crust and place it on a band of six turned puff paste (No. 147), an inch and a half wide, by twenty-six inches long, and three-eighths of an inch thick; cut off the ends on the bias, wet them slightly and fasten them together with the finger; channel the band lightly, decorate the dome with leaves cut from the paste, egg the surface, also the band, and bake the tart for thirty to forty minutes in a well heated, but not too hot oven. After removing the tart from the fire, cut the dome at the base so as to remove the pad; it is now ready to fill. FIG. 101. An illustration of a Round Plate with Paste Stacked in the center of it. (175). THICKENINGS FOR SOUPS, SAUCES AND STEWS (Liaisons pour Potages, Sauces et Ragoûts). Thickening for Soups. -Put some egg-yolks into a bowl, beat them up with a wooden spoon and dilute with a few spoonfuls of good raw cream; some broth, or cold sauce; pass this through a sieve or tammy, add a dash of grated nutmeg and a few bits of fine butter. Boil well the soup, remove it to one side of the range and mix in the strained thickening; return it to the hot fire, to let cook without ceasing to stir and especially without letting it boil. For Sauces. -This thickening is composed of egg-yolks beaten and diluted with some cold broth or raw cream. In order to thicken the sauce, it should necessarily be boiling, then remove it from the hot fire and stir a spoonful or more of it into the thickening, then pour the rest of the thickening into the sauce and cook it while stirring over a slow fire, without permitting it to boil. All sauces thickened with eggs must afterward be strained through a tammy. Thickening or Liaison Prepared Ready to Use. -Twenty-five egg-yolks for one quart of cream; mix well together, pass it through a fine strainer and keep it in a pot ( Fig. 171) in order to thicken sauces and stews as they are needed. Butter and Cream Thickening. -Incorporate some butter and cream, and just when ready to serve, stir it vigorously (do not heat it again), and serve it at once. Blood Thickening. -Reserve the blood of poultry or game, adding to it a little vinegar to prevent it from coagulating, then strain it through a sieve and stir it in gradually when needed to thicken a sauce. Arrowroot, Fecula and Cornstarch Thickening. -Dilute one or the other of these with some water, broth or cold milk; strain through a sieve, and pour it into the liquid, stirring it continuously. Thickening of Kneaded Butter. -Incorporate as much flour into butter as it will absorb to form a soft paste; mix it in small parts in the sauce, stirring constantly until all the butter is melted. (176). TO LINE AND BAKE TIMBALE CRUSTS (Pour Foncer et Cuire les Croûtes à Timbales). Butter a plain timbale mold, five inches in diameter at the bottom, five and a quarter across the top and five and a half inches deep. If the timbale is to be decorated, apply some bits of sweetened noodle paste against the sides and bottom of the mold, dampen them with a brush dipped in water and then line the timbale with a paste not rolled out too thin. With a pastry cutter, two inches in diameter narrower than the mold, cut the paste from the bottom, but do not remove it; cover the whole surface of the paste with buttered white paper and fill in the empty space with common flour; dampen the edges, and cover the top first with a round piece of buttered paper, and then with a layer of the same paste, fastening it down to the dampened sides. Egg over the surface, and let it rest for fifteen minutes in a cool place, then set the timbale on a round baking sheet and cook it for fifty minutes in a hot oven. After removing it, unmold, open the top (the end which before was the bottom), and lift up the round piece previously cut with the pastry cutter, and which can easily be removed, then take out all the flour through this opening, also the paper, and brush the inside twice over with egg-yolks, then lay the timbale for a very few moments in a very hot oven so that it browns nicely, and range it on a dish to be garnished. (177). TO BRUSH AND PEEL TRUFFLES (Pour Brosser et Peler les Truffes). Put some raw, fresh truffles into cold water; wash them well, changing the water, then take them out one by one, and rub the surfaces over strongly with a hard brush, and throw them as fast as they are done into c lean water, drain; take them out again one by one, and remove with a small knife all those parts the brush failed to touch, then refresh them leaving them as little as possible in the water. Wipe the truffles on a cloth, and with the tip of a knife detach all the skin covering them, cutting it away as thinly as possible, put the truffles as fast as they are done into a saucepan with a well-fitting lid; put also the peelings into a saucepan, and keep them in a cool place while waiting to be used. (178). TO DRESS, SINGE AND TRUSS POULTRY AND GAME FOR ENTREES (Pour Habiller, Flamber et Brider la Volaille et le Gibier à Plume pour Entrées). After having dressed (drawn) and singed the pieces of poultry or game, remove the fork and breastbone, lifting it out through the neck without injuring the breasts; cut the legs below the joint, suppress the drumstick bones, and slip the leg into its place, having previously burned the top of the leg with alcohol so as to remove the outer skin. To truss either capon, young turkey, pullet, chicken or guinea- fowl : first, have a trussing needle threaded with some strong string, pass it through one thigh to the other and in the joint of the thick part of the leg, then cross through the wing directing the needle toward the neck, and take up the skin of the neck while passing through it, fastening it down to the back; pass through the other wing, tighten the string so that the wings and thigh are well attached to the body of the fowl, and the breasts are quite prominent. Secondly, with the needle cross through the back near the rump, direct the needle so that it passes the thickest part of the two legs, fasten the string strongly so that the thigh is well attached to the side, thrust the posterior inside, and tie it down with a few turns of a string. To prepare geese and tame ducks for entrées, suppress the wings and neck, singe and pick them, cut off the claws, truss the legs inside, and fasten them down by crossing through with the needle at the joints of the thighs and the stumps of the wings; give them a rounded appearance, and push the posterior into the inside, and tie it firmly in place. For squabs, partridges and quails : pluck the feathers, singe and lightly pick them and draw them through the pouch; then truss them by making an incision in the rump, and tie them the same as the chickens. FIG. 102, FIG. 103, FIG. 104. An illustration od Different Stages of Dressing and Trussing Poultry. (179). TO DRESS, SINGE AND TRUSS POULTRY AND GAME FOR ROASTING. (Pour Habiller, Flamber et Brider la Volaille et le Gibier à Plume pour Rôtir). Dressing poultry and feathered game consists of first bleeding, then plucking out the feathers, drawing, singing and trussing them. To dress a chicken it must first be singed lightly all over with spirits of wine set afire, or over a gas-jet, in order to remove every vestige of feathers. When the poultry or game is singed, then pick out all the feather-stumps remaining in the skin. Burn off the skin from the legs to enable it to be taken off with a cloth. To singe small birds stick them simply on small skewers four or six at a time and pass them over a flame. For drawing a chicken cut on the back of the neck making a long aperture through which the pouch and wind pipe can be removed; put the index finger into the interior following the neck to detach the lungs adhering to the inside; make a small opening next to the rump to empty the chicken entirely and then wipe out the insides, cut the skin below the head, chop the neck off on a level with the breast chop off the feet and the end of the pinions and cross the wings over the back of the chicken. Thread a long piece of string into a large trussing needle, lay the chicken on the table, pressing it down on its back, then with the open left hand take hold of the two thighs, so as to keep them held up at an equal height, pass through the flesh with the needle just below the drum -sticks, turn the chicken over on its side to thread it through the wings, running the needle through the breast skin; pull the string tight tie it on the side with a knot, and lay the chicken once more on its back, press the thighs down again with the left hand and run the needle through above the drumsticks, then turn the chicken over on its side, and introduce the needle across the carcass, and at a quarter of the length of the bird near the rump to the other side, to meet the other end of the string and then tie it into a knot ( Fig. 106). In this manner the chicken is properly trussed, and both knots being on the same side, they are easily cut and the string pulled out when the chicken is cooked. Pheasants, partridges and pigeons are to be trussed the same way when intended for roasting. After the poultry or game is trussed, lard it with thin slices of fresh pork, sufficiently large to cover the whole breast, pare them square shaped, score them lightly on one side, and lay them over the breast, fastening them on with a string as shown in Fig. 109. Fig. 105, FIG. 106, FIG. 107, FIG. 108, FIG. 109. An illustration of Different Stages in Dressing a Poltry for roasting, shown from Different angles. Wild Ducks (Canvas Backs, Red Heads, Black Heads, Mallard, Ruddy, Teal, etc.). -Select two fine red head ducks, pick them as far up as one inch from the head, being very careful not to tear the skin; singe and draw. In order to accomplish this, the skin must be cut the whole length of the neck from its beginning until the back of the head is reached, remove the pouch and windpipe, stick the finger in the neck far down in the inside to detach the lights from the bones and all adhering to the breast, make an incision above the rump and take out the gizzard drawing up the whole of the insides; cut the neck where it begins at the carcass, cutting the skin as far up as it is picked. Wipe the duck carefully, thrust the feet inside and season it interiorly with salt and mignonette. Should the duck be gamy it must have the inside washed out. Pick the feathers from the head and separate it where the neck finishes; pick out the eyes and place the head in the opening that was used for drawing the bird; truss the duck bringing the feet toward the front and passing the trussing needle threaded with string near FIG. 110, FIG. 111. An illustration of a Wild Duck being Dressed for Roasting Purpose. the first joint of the thigh next to the feet. Run the needle through the duck under the breast and then across the other thigh, pressing the duck down well so as to round well the breast, bring the neck skin down on the back and run the needle on the bias through the pinion- bone at the same time through the neck skin to pass it through the other pinion and return from whence it started, pull the string tight and push the rump inward, running the needle through to keep it in place, and bringing it back to one inch from its starting point, passing it through the skin and through the head by the eyes, fasten the two ends of string together tying them firmly. (180). VOL-AU-VENT CRUST (Croûte de vol-au-vent). Prepare a puff paste with one pound of fine, dry flour and one pound of good butter, proceeding as for No. 146 ; give it six and a half turns, and when the paste is made, lay it on a flour ed baking tin, and set on top of it a model of tin or heavy cardboard having the exact dimensions desired for the vol-au-vent, cut the paste all around this, with a small, heated knife, following the outlines of the model, but keeping the knife slightly inclined outward. As soon as the vol-au-vent is cut, turn it with one stroke upside down on to another dampened round baking sheet, being careful not to injure its shape; groove the edges lightly with the back of a knife as represented in the plate ( Fig. 112); egg the surfaces over, and trace a ring, using the tip of a small knife an inch and a half from the edge, then in the center of this ring trace four or five light incisions to form lozenges. Bake the vol-au-vent in a hot oven for thirty minutes or more according to its size, opening the oven as little as possible. When the paste is dry and a fine color, take it out, open it by lifting up the center cover, and empty it of all the uncooked paste within, lay the vol-au-vent on to a dish, and keep it warm in the heater, not allowing the crust to get cold before using it. Small vol-au-vent crusts may be prepared the same way, using a three and a half inch pastry cutter to cut them with. FIG. 112. An illustration of a Round Mold with Different Patterns Designed in the inner part. (181). SMALL VOL-AU-VENT CRUST IN TWO PIECES (Petites croûtes de vol-au-vent en deux pièces). Roll out with the rolling pin on a flour ed table, one pound of six turned puff paste (No. 146) , one quarter of an inch to three-eighths in thickness, let it rest for fifteen minutes, then cut from its surface six channeled or plain round pieces three and a half inches in diameter; as soon as this is done, remove the centers with a smooth pastry cutter two and a half inches in diameter; dipping it each time into hot water so as to make a clean cut, but it must be wiped dry before using. Cut up the clippings of paste, roll them to an eighth of an inch thick, and from this piece cut six round channeled or plain round under crusts three and a half inches in diameter, range these at regular distances on a wet baking sheet, moisten the edges of the paste with a brush, and lay on top of each one, one of the prepared rings, taking them up delicately so as not to break them, and press lightly on them to fasten the edges together; egg the surfaces of the rings, and let them rest for ten minutes, then push the baking sheet into a well heated, but moderate oven to bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes; after removing, detach them from the tin, press the center of the paste down with the finger, and keep them warm for garnishing. Small vol-au-vents may be prepared the same way making them of one piece only. FIG. 113, FIG. 114. An illustration pf Small Round Pieces of Crust Cut Sharped. (182). WHITE STOCK FOR MEATS AND VEGETABLES (Blanc pour cuisson de Viandes et Légumes). Have half a pound of chopped beef suet or marrow, and as much fresh fat pork, melt the whole in a saucepan, adding to it two minced carrots, two onions and one onion with six cloves in it, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bayleaf and as much thyme and a bit of mace. Add to it a teaspoonful of whole peppers, and put this on the fire to fry without coloring. Mix in well one ounce of flour, and dilute with three quarts of water, and four quarts of broth, salt, and the pulp of two lemons. This stock is used for cooking calf 's heads, lamb trotters and also for artichoke bottoms, cardoons and oyster plants. KITCHEN UTENSILS. ROASTER AND SPITS (Rôtissoire et broches). In large kitchens the only roaster possible is the one shown in Fig. 115 with its broad hearth, long spits, long hanging chains and wheels: an endless chain with a weight sufficiently heavy to rotate it, steam, electricity or hydraulic pressure can to be used advantageously to attain the same end. Fig. 117, represents a roasting spit for small game, quails, woodcocks, thrush, etc. It is provided with six skewers; run the game on to one of these through the two leg bones; use as much as possible the different sides for different games, for instance one side for quails, partridges or thrush and the other three skewers for snipe, woodcock, plovers, bustards, etc. These spita are very useful for large dinners, for eight quails can be put on each skewer or forty-eight quails can be roasted at once without having them too crowded. The length of the spit is sixty-eight inches and the length of each one of the six skewers is twenty inches. For cradle spit No. 116, the cut of meat to be roasted such as loin, the saddle FIG. 115. An illustration of a Large Roaster with a Big Fire Place in the Back and a Metallic Structure workable by a Pulley in the Front to Hold the Meat. FIG. 116, FIG. 117, FIG. 118. An illustration of a Long Metallic Rod used in Holding the Meat for Roasting, Shown from Various angles. is placed exactly in the center to regulate the weight evenly. The simple spit for poultry, game, turkey, etc. is shown in Fig. 118. A spit being at times an impossibility, one is frequently obliged to have resource to the more simple roasters. The greatest objection to the old fashioned shell roaster is that the spit did not turn alone, it had to be everlastingly turned for if left the meat would certainly spoil; a great improvement on this is the turning spring spit to be wound up like a clock and strikes an alarm when slackening by the movable balls of the fan striking on a gong ( Fig. 119). There are other roasters having two spoons turning at the same time as the spit feeding a small reservoir found on the top of the spit and through a shallow furrow perforated by small holes, the meat is continuously basted. The three pieces composing this oven are movable and can therefore be transported to any desirable place; the shell can easily be fastened on to the wall. There are also English spits adapted for all hearths ( Fig. 120); it is easy to fasten it to a movable hearth fitting with the spit. These are run by clock work placed on top; the roasts are suspended perpendicularly and always turn in the same direction. FIG. 119. An illustration of a Small Roaster with Poultry Meat on one of the Turning Spits Inside the Closeable Roaster. FIG. 120. An illustration of a Small hearth with a spit hanging from the top. FIG. 121. An illustration of a Wrought Iron pan with a Small Basket fitted inside used for frying purposes. Fig. 121 represents a wrought or sheet iron pan; the interior has a basket which is used for frying small fish, potatoes , croquettes, etc. Place inside the objects intended for frying and plunge the basket into the frying fat after it has attained the required heat; the articles being cooked and of a fine color, withdraw the basket to drain them properly. Fig. 122 represents a copper case containing four high saucepans called bain-maries. A bain-marie consists of a vessel filled with boiling water into which is placed another vessel containing the substances that are required to be heated. The materials placed in the second vessel can only acquire the temperature of the boiling water and heat gradually and progressively and therefore can be stopped at any time. Each saucepan should be ticketed with the name of the sauce it contains so that any sauce or soup can be selected without wasting time in searching for it. FIG. 122. An illustration of a Rectangular Copper Case with Four High Saucepans placed inside. FIG. 123. An illustration of a Small Oven attached to the Wall used in Glazing and Browning of Dishes.. Fig. 123. The salamander and oven hithertofore used in kitchens to glaze or brown dishes presented difficulties on account of the attention and watchful care it necessarily required. By means of the new gas salamander, fish can be almost instantaneously glazed when covered with a well thickened or buttered sauce without any danger whatever of having the sauce curdle. This salamander is lighted by gas and can be fastened to the wall at the back of the range. It consists of two platforms, the upper one fixed and the lower one movable and sufficiently big to place the largest dishes on it. Naturally the gas comes from the top and it is easy to regulate its intensity by a stop cock. Two minutes suffice too obtain a perfect glazing without having the bottom of the dish attain the slightest heat, thus the sauce cannot deteriorate whatever. It is an indispensable utensil and assists the cook greatly both as regards its usefulness and speed. FIG. 124. An illustration of a Small Rctangular Multi-Purpose Broiler. Fig. 124 is the reproduction of a very useful broiler, offering numerous facilities for various purposes. The broiling takes place in a metal case, it being provided with five gas tubes, having the sides bored with small holes, the gas projects into small bells to have it purified and then can be used for broiling without the annoyance of smell nor smoke. It is principally used for broiling toasts, canapés, or toasts for sandwiches; meats can also be broiled thereon such as cutlets, chops and beefsteaks. When the bottom is closed with a movable door, it can be used for roasting chickens, legs of mutton, beef, etc. The top part is useful for keeping things hot. All gas stoves can be regulated and moderated, according to the work, by modifying or increasing the volume of gas. FIG. 125. An illustration of a Small Horn like appratus with Flame Burning from the thicker end. Fig. 125 shows a singeing apparatus shaped like a horn; the largest part, from whence issues the flame is covered with a very fine metallic cloth which causes the flame to become enlarged. There is an opening on the other or thin end about an inch in diameter for the purpose of combining the air with the gas, forming a Bunsen burner. Poultry and game can be singed without blackening the skin whatever. FIG. 126. An illustration of a Large Steam table with covered dishes, cases and small sauce pans. Fig. 126 is a steam table with covered dishes, cases and bain-maries. The square boxes are used for soups, stews, etc.; the covered dishes for large pieces of meat to be carved and for entrées; the small steamers are for keeping the sauces and gravies. Instead of a dish on the right, place a carving-board with a knife and fork. The inside is used for keeping the dishes hot before and after they are dressed. These steam tables are heated by steam or gas, and are advantageously used either as a hot closet or as a substitute for a chafing dish. BROILER AND RANGE (Grillade et Fourneau). The broiler shown below is most useful, for on it can be cooked all meats, either using charcoal, or embers, or gas. In olden times meats were broiled on the embers of a chimney hearth, fanning continuously to keep the fire alive. For many years sliding broilers have been used and charcoal. With gas the broiling is done in a metal case, by a gas tube having the sides pierced with small holes. Although gas is very little used in kitchens still it deserves to be encouraged; for not only does this style of broiling interest amateurs by its ingenuity, but it also has its particular advantages which are manifold, as the operation takes place without the slightest trouble and without having the meats give forth any smoke or disagreable smell, for the heat attains the meat from the top and all the escaping fat falls into a receptacle Fig. 127 shows an improved range an explanation of which is unnecessary. FIG. 127. An illustration of a Very Large Broiler with Different Parts for Broiling Different Meats. FIG. 128. An illustration of a Small Broiler with a Side Door and a Handle on the Top. PORTABLE HEATER(Étuve Portative). This heater is used for transporting meats out-outside or keeping hot dishes to be served. It is heated with small cakes of prepared coal, made red-hot in the hearth of the range, then put into a small sheet-iron box placed at the bottom of the heater. They can also be heated with an alcohol lamp. The heaters are made of tin and provided with two gratings inside; they can be of any size (Fig. 128). FIG. 129. An illustration of a Steam Double Bottom Kettle. STEAM KETTLE WITH DOUBLE JACKET (Marmite à Vapeur avec Double Fond. Fig. 129. A steam double bottom kettle either having a ball in the center or else a winding pipe. In this same shaped pot all systems can be employed. The one shown on the figure has a double jacket; on top place a ring and in this a tinned basin; fill it half full of boiling water and use it for cooking ices; stocks, broths and consommées are cooked in those having a ball in the center, or else a winding pipe, but the ball is preferable. For cooking potatoes, lobsters, terrapin, etc., iron pots with rounded corners are used; on the bottom is an iron winding pipe furnished with holes; at the bottom is a hole for letting the water from the condensed stream run out, on top a hinged cover sufficiently heavy to close it hermetically, specially required for these kind of pots. SAUTOIR, SAUCEPAN, SOUP POT, BRAZIERE (Sautoir, Casserole, Marmite, Braisière). Fig. 130 represents a flat, thick copper saucepan, generally called a sautoir; they are also made of a thinner copper and are intended for sautéing fillets of chickens, éscalops, cutlets, etc. It is neccessary to have these of all sizes, large as well as small. Fig. 131 represents a copper saucepan tinned in the interior and furnished with a cover fitting inwardly. These also must be of all sizes according to the importance of the work to be executed. FIG. 130. An illustration of a Thick Copper Saucepans with long Handle. FIG. 131. An illustration of a Copper Saucepans tinned in the interior and furnished with a cover fitted inwardly. Fig. 132 represents a glazing saucepan; the edges of this one are only half as high as the ordinary saucepan; it is covered with a hollow cover fitting outside the pan; this is for the purpose of holding red hot coals or ember so to glaze and color the meats. FIG. 132. An illustration of a glazing saucepan with edges lower in height than the usual saucpans. FIG. 133. An illustration of a Large Soup Pot with Side Handles. FIG. 134. An illustration of a Long Stew pan with Rounded Curds and Handles. Fig. 133 represents a soup pot for broths with side handles, with or without a faucet, serving to draw off the liquid. Copper pots are preferable to iron or earthen ones, the first give the broth or soup a dark color and the latter in time acquire a bad taste. Fig. 134 represents a braisière or long stew pan having rounded ends and handles. Its deep cover is made to hold hot embers, but this is not necessary if the braizing is done in the oven, then a well fitting cover will be found sufficient. FISH KETTLE (Poissonnière). Fig. 135 represents a fish kettle, these are either of copper or tin. The fish is placed on a metal sheet perforated with half inch holes, this has handles on both sides, it is put down into the bottom of the fish kettle and lifted again when the fish is cooked, thus avoiding the breaking of it. Fig. 136 represents oblong shaped, deep baking pans having handles on each end. These pans are furnished with a perforated metal grate. Their raised edge cover (Fig. 136), can when turned upside down, also serve for a deep pan suitable for cooking flat fishes, fricandeaux sweetbreads, etc. Fig. 137 represents a series of six small timbales with flat bottoms ranging from No. 1 to No. 6. These timbales as shown in the figures are just half their actual size. Fig. 138 shows a series of convex molds for mousselines, No. 1 to No. 6. These molds like the flat bottomed ones are drawn half their proper size. They are to be placed on metal sheets perforated according to the size of the molds, supported by half inch high feet. FIG. 135. An illustration of a Fish Kettle Made of Copper or Tin. FIG. 136. An illustration Three Oblong Shaped, Deep Baking Pans having Handles on each side. FIG. 137. An illustration of Six Flat Bottom Timbales of Different Sizes. FIG. 138. An illustration of a series of Convex Molds with Round Tops and Bottoms. FIG. 139. An illustration og Various Border Molds of Different Shapes and Sizes. Fig. 139 are various border molds, the first has a concave bottom and is specially used for dressing entrées of chicken and game fillets, quenelles, etc. The second is an oval mold with a flat bottom useful for large relevé borders. The third is a round bomb shaped mold with flaring sides, used for molding rice or forcemeat borders. The fourth is a plain bottom mold and the fifth is of an octagon shape with a flat bottom. BASIN (Bassine). Basins are made of copper; as a general rule they are not tinned. In large kitchens there are some that are tinned and others that are not. If untinned they can also be used not only for beating up egg whites, cooking fruits, and jellies, but also for blanching and cooking green vegetables, such as spinach, green peas, string beans, etc., thereby retaining their natural color, giving them a more appetizing appearance. FIG. 140. An illustration of a Large Round Basin with Handles on both the Sides. KITCHEN SIEVES(Tamis de Cuisine). An illustration of Different Sizes of Kitchen Sieves. It is impossible to perform any kitchen work without the use of large and small sieves. Sieves and colanders are indispensable either for straining purées, forcemeats, gravies and broths, for draining purposes or when required to be laid aside for further use. MOLDS (Les Moules). The Fig. 144 and 145 represent two fancy jelly molds; they are cylindrical shaped, having a cover of the same size, hollow on top so that it can hold chopped ice. Many dessert molds are to be found in the market unprovided with covers, thereby making them useless and inconvenient. The Fig. 146 shows the cover of the mold seen upside down having a small piece adjusted to the center which fits into the cylinder of the mold. FIG. 144, FIG. 145, FIG. 146, FIG. 147. An illustration of Different Copper Molds used for Making Jellies and Macedoines. Fig. 147 is a copper macédoine mold with a tinned double copper bottom. This double bottom is movable and is kept at an even distance from the sides and bottom of the mold by three catches attached to it. If the double bottom be removed it then can be used for aspics of foies gras, unmolding it on to a jelly border having a support placed in the center. JUICE PRESS (Presse Sucs). These presses are for extracting all the liquid parts of fruits needed for preparing syrups and fruit jellies, such as currants, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries and barberries, in fact all fruits. This utensil should be made of wood for all red fruits lose their natural color when brought in contact with any metal. CREAM MOLDS (Moules à Crème). Made of tin or copper; they are fancy and cylindrical. Used for molding cold creams, pains of fruits, blanc manges, etc. (Fig. 148). FIG. 148, FIG. 149. An illustration ofTwo Different Copper Molds used for jellies. JELLY AND BABA MOLDS(Moules à Gelée; et Moules à Baba). Jelly molds are made both of copper, tinned in the inside, fancy and cylindrical, and are used for thick creams, blanc-manges, flamris, etc. Three or four are not too many to have in a kitchen. Baba molds are of copper, tin and earthen-ware; they are cylindrical shaped and generally have deep furrows in them, but can be of any shape (Fig. 149). "PAIN" AND PUDDING CYLINDRICAL MOLDS (Moules Cylindriques à Pain et à Pouding). These are cylindrical shaped, tinned on the inside. Generally puddings are cooked in these molds, but they can also be used for rice or fruit pains, besides they are very useful in a kitchen either for hot entrées or else molding hot or cold sweet dishes. Dome shaped molds can also be used to poach pains and puddings (Fig. 150). FIG. 150, FIG. 151, FIG. 152. An illustration of CYlindrical shaped Pudding Molds tinned from Inside. Fig. 151 is a copper mold, tinned inside and outside, the double bottom is removable and is kept at an even distance from the edges and bottom by three catches fastened to it. It can be used for cold dessert cream; the same mold without the double bottom, but having a cover fitted on the outside can be utilized for hot or cold puddings. Fig. 152 represents a tin mold for making paste croustades and can also be used for molding rice or hominy. FIG. 153. An illustration of a Round Pie Mold. PIE MOLDS (Moules à Pâté). Hot pie molds are shallow and round; for cold pies they are round, oval or oblong; made of tin or copper, but the tin ones answer the purpose. The round or oval ones are hinged ( Fig. 153). WHIPS OR WHISKS USED FOR KITCHEN AND CONFECTIONERY (Fouets de Cuisine et de pâtisserie). Whips or whisks are made of wicker or tinned wire, several of them should be kept on hand as they are frequently used. The wicker ones are the best, especially for beating creams, but for whipping hot liquids, such as consommé, sweet or meat jellies, the wire ones are preferable. When beating the white of eggs be careful to observe that the tin on the whisks is partly worn off, for the contact of egg-white with new tin causes it to curdle (Fig. 154). Some use whisks made of untinned brass wire, the wire not being as heavy as the other. FIG. 154. An illustration of an egg-whisk . KITCHEN KNIVES, CLEAVER, CAN-OPENER (Couteaux de Cuisine, Couperet, Ouvre-boîte). Have one large, strong knife for chops, one large carving knife for cooked meats, one smaller one for the same purpose and one kitchen knife. It is always advisable to keep a few well sharpened ones in reserve, either for carving or any other unforeseen occasion. Besides these there must be a channeled knife for turning vegetables and fruits. A knife for peeling and also a can-opener; it is most necessary to have a large and strong cleaver for splitting bones, also to be used instead of a mallet for beating meats to flatten them according to one's wants (Figs. 155 to 162). FIG. 155, FIG. 156, FIG. 157, FIG. 158, FIG. 159, FIG. 160, FIG. 161, FIG. 162. An illustration of Different kinds of Knives Cleavers and Can openers of Different Sizes. SUGAR DREDGER (Poudrière). Fig. 163 represents a sugar dredger containing about a pint. It is to be filled three-quarters full with powdered sugar and is used for sweetening pastry, fritters, omelets, etc. FIG. 163. An illustration of a Sugar Dredger of a Normal Oblong Shape. LEG OF MUTTON HANDLE (Manche à Gigot). These handles are made of metal fitting on to the bone of a leg of mutton, lamb or ham; they assist the carver to turn around and cut the meat according to necessity. The old style ones are silver plated and screwed on to the bone, but the new style are made of steel and are fitted on by means of a rubber ring placed inside which grasps the bone tightly without breaking it (Fig. 164). FIG. 146. An illustration of a Lonf Metallic Handle , Thick from one side. THERMOMETER (Thermomètre). Fig. 165, a thermometer used for cooking sugar. These can be used for all kitchen purpose, cold chambers, refrigators, etc. FIG. 165. An illustration of a Large Thermometer with Fahrenheit and Centigrade Scales printed on Different Sides. FAHRENHEIT. ice................... 32 degrees Burgundy Wine......... 45 " Ice Refrigerator...... 50 " Bordeaux Wine......... 55 " Water for unmolding ice cream....... 40 " Dining Room .......... 62 " Senegal Heat.......... 182 " Boiling Water......... 212 " Sugar Small Thread.... 215 " " Long Thread.... 217 " " Pearl.......... 220 " " Large Pearl.... 222 " " The Blow....... 230 " " The Ball....... 236 " " Large Ball..... 246 " " Small Crack.... 290 " " The Crack...... 310 " " Caramel........ 345 " COPPER BASIN FOR COOKING SUGAR WITH THERMOMETER(Bassine pour Cuire le Sucré au Theremomètre). Fig. 166 is a small copper basin with a tin cover having a hole in its top sufficiently large to allow the thermometer to be inserted. The steam that condenses on the side of the cover is continually cleansing the sides of the basin, so that when the sugar is well stirred there is on necessity to watch it, only see that it continues to cook to the desired heat. FIG. 166. An illustration of a Small Copper Basin with a tin cover. SYRUP GAUGE (Pèse Sirop). After a person has the habit of cooking sugar he rarely requires a syrup gauge; the degree of cooking can be judged by simply touching it with the fingers, but those who have not yet attained this proficiency need always use the syrup gauge. Place in a bottle and then plunge into the syrup this glass instrument which rises or falls according to the thickness or thinness of the liquid thereby giving the exact degree of its cooking by the numbers marked on it (Fig. 167). FIG. 167. An illustration of a Syrup Gage with Numbers printed on the cylindrical end. COLUMN BOX (Boîte à Colonnes). Fig. 168 represents a column box. These tubes are for removing fanciful cuts of truffles, tongues, egg white, etc. The medium sized ones can be utilized for stoning Spanish olives; they are also used for coring apples and for rolling paper frills, for cutting vegetables, jardiniere, macédoine or Chartreuse, for bread croûtons, etc. FIG. 168. An illustration of a Column Box with its Lid open. LEMON SQUEEZER (Presse Cirton). Fig. 169 represents a lemon-squeezer. This kind is in common use and is used for squeezing lemons for ices, jellies, etc. FIG. 169. An illustration of a Large Lemon Squeezer with a Long Handle Stretching out. STRAINER (CHINESE), AND MIXING POT FOR THICKENING (Passoire Chinoise et Mélangeur pour Liaisons). Fig. 170 represents a sauce strainer commonly called Chinese; they are made of tin or metalic tammy. It is necessary to have several sizes more or less fine; they are either pointed or flat as shown in the design and are in constant use for sauce and gravies. FIG. 170, FIG. 171. An illustration of a Sauce Strainer and a Small Pot. Fig. 171 is a kind of pot containing a mixer. This is to stir egg-yolks and cream together for pouring it into sauces and ragouts for thickening; this is found especially handy for Hollandaise sauce. GRIDIRON (Grill). Fig. 172 represents a thin wire double gridiron; it is useful for toasting bread, crackers, broiling oysters, tomatoes, and sliced potatoes. Stronger and thicker gridirons are used for meats and fish, having just sufficient room to hold the articles. FIG. 172. An illustration of a thin wire Double Griditon. MEAT CHOPPER (Pour Hacher les Viandes). Fig. 173 is a perpendicular machine used for chopping meats; these are excellent, and are well adapted for making Salisbury steaks or Hamburg steaks. They have this advantage that they cut the meats without cutting the nerves, so that the meat comes to the top lightly chopped and nerveless. FIG. 173. An illustration of a Perpendicular Machine used for Chopping Meats. FONTAGE CROUSTADE MOLD (Moule à Croustade Fontage). FIG. 174. An illustration of a Long Iron Rod with Handle on one End and a Small Round Block on other. Fig. 174 represents an iron in imitation of a small channeled timbale mold; it has a handle fourteen inches long, bent at the end and is furnished with a wooden handle. This mold is for the purpose of making fontage croustades (see Fontage, No. 907). KITCHEN FORK(Fouchette de Cuisine). Fig. 175 represents a kitchen fork, used for turning over any broiled articles, sautés or else for tossing rice, etc. FIG. 175. An illustration of a Long kitchen Fork. SKEWERS AND HATELETS (Brochettes et Hâtelets). Kitchen skewers are of iron, used for supporting large pieces of meat when laid on the spit. Small game are run on to skewers; the blade is flat, rounded on one end and pointed on the other. Table skewers are of white metal, silver or plated ware; they are used when broiling kidneys or other meats which are thrust on them (Fig. 176). Fig. 176a represents a hatelet and should not be confounded with a skewer. FIG. 176, FIG. 176a. An illustration of Two Kitchen Skewers, One with Simple and One with a Fancy Handle. KITCHEN GRATER (Râpe de Cuisine). An utensil made of tin having a semi-circular surface bored with projecting holes on which is to be grated either bread, cheese or various kinds of roots. There should always be two small graters in every spice box, one for grating nutmeg, the other for orange, lemon or Seville orange peel. The two latter ought to be enclosed in small separate boxes (Fig. 177). FIG. 177. An illustration of a Kitchen Grater with a Semi Circular Top. PASTE PINCHER(Pince à Pâté}. With this small pincher the crest of pies are pinched; it will be better to have two; one large and one small (Fig. 178). FIG. 178. An illustration of a small Rectangular Picher. PASTRY BAG OR POCKET AND SOCKETS (Poche et Poche avec Douilles). These pockets are made of unbleached duck; they are used for laying out meringues, choux, or else quenelle forcemeat; they are of the greatest utility in kitchen and pastry work and it is advisable to have them of graduated sizes. The sockets are movable and are fitted in the bottom of the pocket before filling them. FIG. 179, FIG. 180, FIG. 181. An illustration of a Jelly Bag and Two Graduated Pastry pockets of Different Sizes. Fig. 180 shows us the graduated different sizes reduced to the tenth of their proper dimensions; these are the ones most generally used for kitchen work and pastry. Fig. 181 is half the natural size and represents a section of a series of sockets the most used for all work. SOUFFLÉ PAN, AND PIE DISH(Casserole à Soufflé, et Plat à Tarte). These vessels are of plated ware or sterling silver, made in different shapes and different sizes; they are indispensable in a kitchen and are used principally for cooking soufflés, but they can also be used for baking purposes, for poaching creams by bain marie and in fact for serving vegetables or garnishings on the table (Fig. 182). FIG. 182, FIG. 183. An illustration of One Round and One Tectangular Pie Dishes. Pie Dish. -Made of English china that can be placed in the oven without any danger of cracking; they are most useful. In these dishes one can cook meat, chicken, game or fish pies, fruit pies, or puddings, or creams, also can be used for soufflés. There is no end to their utility in a kitchen and there should always be plenty of different sizes. What makes them more useful and convenient is that they can very well be placed on the table with their contents as they were taken from the oven; for instance, anything baked, creams, puddings, etc. ( Fig. 183). KITCHEN BRUSHES (Pinceaux de Cuisine). Brushes will be found very useful in a kitchen; it is better to have several; they can be made by any one; merely tying turkeys' tail feathers firmly together. Take the feathers, one by one, remove the feathers on each side, leaving only the end, then put about fifteen of these together, tie with rows of strings, beginning on the feathered end and girding tightly; fasten at the other or upper end, tying the string firmly; now cut the lower end to equalize the quills; they do not last very long. Brushes can be purchased made of hair with a tin handle, much neater, stronger and easier to keep clean; these are shown in the Figs. 184 and 184a. FIG. 184, FIG. 184a. An illustration of Two Kitchen Brushes of Different Sizes. OMELET, AND OYSTER STEW PAN (Poêle à Omelette, et Casserole pour les Huîtres). Omelet Pan. -A black, iron pan, polished on the inside. These pans are used principally for omelets; they should never be washed; when coated or burned on the inside, scrape with a flexible knife all that sticks to the bottom, heat well and then rub with a cloth and some salt until perfectly clean. The French omelet pans are the best, both for shape and strength (Fig. 185). FIG. 185, FIG. 186. An illustration of an Omelet Pan and a Stew pan made up of Iron and Copper Respectively. Oyster Stew Pan. -This saucepan is made of various sizes in tin with a copper bottom. It is furnished with a rounded cover perforated in the center with several small holes. The handle is very long. This saucepan is used for oysters and their liquor placed on the hot fire and when the steam escapes through the holes then remove it at once ( Fig. 186). SPOONS (Cuillères). Fig. 187, represents four spoons, soup or table, dessert, tea and coffee. The approximative liquid capacity is; six soup or tablespoonfuls of liquid make a gill or forty-eight a quart. Twelve dessertspoonfuls of liquid for a gill; eighteen teaspoonfuls and thirty-six coffeespoonfuls. For sugar it requires eight tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar for a pound, sixteen dessertspoonfuls, twenty-four teaspoonfuls and forty-eight coffeespoonfuls. For flour it takes ten tablespoonfuls for a pound, twenty dessertspoonfuls, thirty teaspoonfuls and sixty coffeespoonfuls. FIG. 187. An illustration of of a Coffee, Tea, Dessert and Soup Spoon; compared for their liquid capacities by being placed on top of each other. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES (Piods et Measures). Various ways of obtaining weights and measure. Weight by Quarts. -One quart of water weighs two pounds and four ounces; one quart of milk two pounds and an ounce and a half; cream two pounds and one ounce; oil one pound and fourteen ounces; melted butter the same weight as oil; powdered sugar one pound nine ounces; rice one pound three ounces; flour one pound two ounces; bread-crumbs eleven ounces; horseradish or cocoanut twelve ounces; wheaten grits or Indian meal fifteen ounces; oatmeal thirteen ounces; semolina one pound seven ounces. Weight by Handfuls. -A handful of sugar weighs six ounces; flour four ounces; bread-crumbs two ounces; rice three ounces; herbs, parsley, etc., one ounce. Weight by Coffeecups. -Six cupfuls of sugar weigh one pound; nine of flour one pound; eight of Indian meal, one pound; six of rice one pound. Ten black coffeecupfuls of water make one quart. Six teacupfuls of water make one quart. Four breakfast cupfuls of water make one quart. REFRIGERATOR, ICE-BOX AND COLD ROOM(Réfrigérateur, Glacière Timbre, et Chambre froide). These refrigerators are to be kept full of ice so to reduce the temperature inwardly and to avoid inconvenience arising from the excessive heat of the atmosphere. A refrigerator as shown in the accompanying design is all that is necessary for a restaurant, etc. At a third of its height are placed wooden gratings to uphold the ice, underneath is to be found a sheet of zinc or galvanized sheet iron with a small gutter, at the end, between this and the sheet of iron is a space of six inches. The bottom parts of these ice-boxes are used for keeping either beef palates, FIG. 188. An illustration of an Old but Large Refrigerator, consisting of a number of Storage portions for Different Purposes. calf 's heads, sheep's trotters, croquette preparations of all kinds, etc.; each compartment should be entirely separate from one another, having a special one for fish, one for poultry, one for game, one for cold meats, one for garnishings, etc. The Ice box is simply a box of an oblong shape sufficiently thick to be filled with a non-conducting material such as charcoal, sawdust, tow, or simply an hermetically empty space not to allow the air to pass through the box; they are lined inside with galvanized sheet iron or zinc. The cold room is of a more modern invention, the meats being hung up in the inside. Cooked meats, also different provisions requiring a cold temperature of forty-five to fifty degrees Fahrenheit, such as butter, milk or cream, rest on shelves or in drawers, without being in direct contact with the ice, for it is evident that the cold air surrounding these provisions do not contain the slightest moisture that might destroy their properties. Another advantage the cold room has is that a quantity of cold entrées or sweet dishes already decorated with the jellies that are to be served will keep in perfect condition for a few days, while those placed directly on the ice do not afford the same security; however, each one has its own peculiar advantages and one must not be sacrificed for the other, on the contrary in all large kitchens each one has its own place and have both become indispensable. MEAT-SAFE (Garde-Manger). This is a kind of round or square cage composed of metallic cloth on a framework of iron or wood, provided inside with several shelves; also hanging hooks to which can be hung meats, poultry and game. On the shelves are placed all the provisions that should be exposed to the air without incurring any danger of contact with flies. These meat-safes are either suspended from the ceiling of the pantry by a pulley or else fastened to the wall outside a window; in both cases in order to have them accomplish their purpose they must be exposed to a thorough draught of air in as cool a place as possible. If the meat safe is hung in a room it can be entirely open on top, if on the contrary it is fastened outside then the upper part must certainly have a slightly inclining roof so that no rain can penetrate the inside. These meat-safes are only useful where ice is scarce for ice-boxes, are far preferable under all circumstances. CENTIMETERS AND INCHES (Centimètres et Pouces). Centimeters. FIG. 190. -Inches. An illustration of a Small Scale Masuring in Centimeters on One side and in inches on the other Side. FIG. 191. -Rounds. An illustration of a Series of Measurements in Rounds. FIG. 192. -Circles. An illustration of a Series of Measurements in Circles Figs. 190 to 196 indicate the difference between the centimeter and the inch; the dimensions of circles, triangles, lozenges, ovals, rounds or squares all measured by the sixteenth of an inch across the diameter, or on the length for ovals and lozenges. These figures will at once give an exact idea of the proportions as they are explained in the different recipes, either for garnishings or salpicons or else for the diameter of sockets, column tubes, etc. FIG. 193. -Triangles. An illustration of a Series of Measurements in Triangles. FIG. 194. -Lozenges An illustration of a Series of Measurements in Lozenges. FIG. 195. -Oval. An illustration of a Series of Measurements in Ovals. FIG. 196. -Squares. An illustration of a Series of Measurements in Squares. BILL OF FARE HOLDER (Porte-Menu). The bill of fare is the programme of the dinner on which is found inscribed the dishes composing the meal. For ceremonious dinners the bills of fare are printed or else written on rich paper. They are laid on the table or fastened in a holder such as shown in Fig. 197; they are to be made either of silver or silver plate; if the bills of fare are printed, they are then usually laid between two guests. FIG. 197. An illustration of a Bill of Fare Written on a Rich Stylish Paper carved with Beautiful Flowery Designs. COVERS FOR ROUND AND LONG DISHES (Cloches pour Plats Ronds et Longs). Those for the kitchen are made of tin and are used to cover the dishes after they are dressed, either to keep them in the hot closet or to carry to the dining-room; have always round and long ones for both large and small dishes. These require to be kept very clean and bright. SOUPS (Potages). An illustration of Two Soup Dishes and a Number of Dinner Plates Nicely arranged on the a Dinner Table. Soup is the prelude of the dinner; it is a healthy, light and stimulating food, agreeing with every one, especially children and old people. The basis of soup is broth, and therefore it is on this article that one's whole attention must be borne. There are two kinds of soup, fat and lean; they are divided into clear and thick; the garnishings for these soups are either composed of crusts, vegetables, creams of game or poultry, eggs, fish, quenelles, timbales, chiffonades, finely minced herbs, crustacean, farina ceous, etc. These two kinds of soups are divided into six chapters: First, Bisques; second, Consommé and Garnishings; third, Creams; fourth, Cosmopolitan or Mixed; fifth, Fish; sixth, Purées. Purées may be made into creams by using less butter and adding instead cream and egg-yolks, while creams can be turned into purées by suppressing the cream and egg-yolks, and stirring in, when ready to serve, a piece of fresh, fine butter. (184). FAT (La Graisse). Fat is insoluble in water, but melts by heat and floats on the surface of a liquid. As it is enveloped in the cells of a very fine indissoluble membrane, one part of the fat adheres always to the fibers, unless the cooking be too long and the cells are broken by the force of the boiling. Fat exists either separately in certain parts of animals, and in other parts it is interposed between the fibers; these last parts are always the most digestible and the most nourishing. Albumen (L'Albumine). -Is of the same nature as the white of egg which contains scarcely anything else than albumen; it is soluble in cold or tepid water and coagulates between one hundred and fifty to two hundred and ten degrees Fahrenheit. Albumen abounds in the blood and it is found in every part of the flesh; it coagulates after being dissolved, and in broth forms what is called scum, rising to the surface of liquids in which meats are cooked. The less blood the animal has lost, the more there is albumen, and as the blood contains much osmazome, the result will be that meat having the most blood will produce a more savory soup than that which has lost a larger quantity. When a piece of either beef or mutton is needed rare, it must be plunged into boiling liquid, and being at once seized by the action of the heat, the albumen coagulates and encloses the osmazome inside. Allow fifteen minutes for each pound of meat for a leg of mutton weighing six to eight pounds; if boiled according to this time the meat will be found rare, unless the boiling has been too long. If on the contrary, this same piece of meat be put into cold water and is allowed to cook slowly, the albumen not coagulating at once, will let the osmazome escape into the liquid and the meats will be white and less juicy, but as nothing is lost, the broth will have gained by it in quality. Bones (Les os). -Are inorganic parts having much solidity besides being of a gelatineous nature; they contain considerable fat substance analogous to marrow, but this is but a part of their matter. Bones contain eight times more gelatin than meat. They are generally split into smaller pieces. (185). FIBRINE (La Fibrine). Fibrine is insoluble; it forms the base of the muscles or flesh. After meat has been very much cooked, after it has boiled a long time, the remainder of it is almost pure fibrine. Fibrine is not very nutritious, and when it has thoroughly exhausted its soluble qualities, it becomes difficult to digest. Pure fibrine has no savor, it is insipid or flavorless and becomes yellow and brittle after drying. Gelatin (La Gélatine). - Gelatin is soluble in very hot or boiling water, in tepid water it swells and dissolves only partially, and in cold water it softens without dissolving. It is colorless, insipid, inodorous and is susceptible to pass rapidly into a state of acetic fermentation. There is very little nutrition in gelatin; when in sufficient quantity it gives the broth the peculiar quality of forming into a jelly when cold. Gelatin exists in all parts of the meat, but more profusely in gristle and bone. In a pure state it is insipid. Osmazome (L'Osmazôme). -Soluble even when cold, this is a part of the flesh of the beef, of the brain and of certain mushrooms. It is osmazome which gives to the broth its savor, its aroma and its sapidity. It is supplied with an exceedingly stimulating property, exciting the appetite and helping considerably to facilitate digestion; it seems to exist only in the flesh and blood, and more abundantly in old cattle and in dark meats, than in young animals and white meat. The properties of osmazome are more perceptible when the meats are broiled or roasted; then the sapidity is stronger and the aroma more exhilarating. Poultry gives very little sapidity to broths unless they be old and very fat, for their grease has a more pronounced flavor than that found in quadrupeds. Gristle, fat and bones are entirely free of osmazome; in broths there is one part osmazome to seven parts gelatin. (186). CARE TO BE TAKEN WHILE PREPARING BROTH (Des Soins à Prendre pour Préparer le Bouillon). First. -Select the freshest meats procurable; do not wash, but remove all that is not of the very freshest; bone and tie up each piece separately leaving them as large as possible; split the bones and put them into a soup-pot with cold water and the meat. Second. -Heat and boil it up slowly to give the albumen time to dissolve in the liquid; it coagulates so soon as the liquid reaches one hundred and fifty degrees Fahrenheit, and rising to the surface brings with it all the impurities contained therein, which is called scum. Third. -Carefully remove this scum as quickly as it rises to the surface, and before the liquid boils, for after that the scum partly dissolves and the rest of it precipitates and destroys the transparency of the broth. When the broth is well skimmed, add salt, allspice, and vegetables; then keep it boiling as continuously and slowly as possible to prevent too much evaporation. (187). CLEAR BOUILLON (Bouillon Clair). There is nothing that resembles consommé more than clarified bouillon, and if it does not entirely take its place as regards quality, still it is often used instead. Clarified bouillon is in reality only an imitation of consommé, it is equally true that with care it can easily be prepared in excellent conditions, the principal one being to operate with good bouillon, either of chicken, beef or game, etc. To obtain clear bouillon, only lean meats must be used for clarification; in order to obtain four quarts of bouillon, have one pound of lean beef free of all fat and nerves, chop it finely, and mix in with it, two raw eggs and one pint of cold bouillon; place the strained bouillon on the fire, skimmed free of all its fat, and when it reaches boiling point, pour into it the clarification, beating it well with a whip. As soon as the bouillon boils, keep it to the same degree of heat without allowing it to boil, for one hour; skim the fat off, season with salt and a little sugar, and color it with caramel (No. 18), then remove and strain through a wet napkin stretched and fastened to the four legs of a kitchen stool ( Fig. 99), or else a silk sieve. These bouillons are to be served with garnishings of Italian pastes and farina s, also garnishings of vegetables, etc., for various soups. (188). WHITE CHICKEN BOUILLON OR BROTH (Bouillon Blanc de Volaille). Have ten quarts of water in a soup pot; add to it three pounds of knuckle of veal, and trimmings, seven pounds of very fresh poultry. Boil, skim, and put in three quarters of a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, twelve ounces of leeks, two onions, one stuck with two cloves, two ounces of celery, one ounce of parsley roots, two bay leaves, salt, sixty grains of whole peppers; boil slowly and continuously for four hours, then strain through a silk sieve. If needed in a great hurry, boil six quarts of ordinary stock, have two fowls of three pounds each, after removing the breasts, chop the remainder of the fowls coarsely, put them in the stock, add four ounces of minced carrots and six ounces of leeks also minced, boil slowly for one hour; skim off the fat, season with salt, strain through a fine sieve or moistened napkin, and serve. The breasts are used for forcemeat or to clarify broth. (189). CLARIFIED CONSOMMÉ AND REMOISTENING. (Consommé Clarifié et Remouillage). Proportions. -When the stock (No. 194a) is ready put five quarts of it into a soup pot, adding two pounds of lean meat and three pounds of cleansed and washed fowls. Boil it up slowly, and just when ready to come to a boil, carefully remove the scum arising on the surface and then add half a pound of roasted veal. Simmer slowly until the fowl is cooked, which will take from two and a half to three hours, lifting it out as soon as it is done so as to save the breasts which will be found useful for garnishings, purées, salads, sandwiches, etc.; return what remains of the fowls to the broth once again and continue boiling for half an hour longer, skim the fat off very carefully and mix in the clarification. Clarification. -Trim off the fat, remove the nerves from a piece of beef sufficient to obtain two pounds after it is chopped up, and mix in with this chopped meat half a quart of cold stock (or water ); pour this clarification into the broth, add two ounces of minced carrots, and two ounces of minced leeks; season with salt and color the soup with caramel (No. 18) ; keep the liquid in a boiling state for one hour. The consommé should be perfectly clear, sapid and tasty: strain it through a silk sieve or a fine napkin and use when needed, serve in cups, or in a soup tureen with any garnishing desired. Remoistening. -After the stock or consommé has been taken out of the pot, pour in sufficient water to have the meats entirely re-covered and boil again for three hours; remove all the fat and strain it through a napkin; do not salt this. This remoistening is used for diluting certain soups, and to moisten veal or chicken stock with which meat extract is made (see meat extract, No. 368) . (190). CLARIFIED CHICKEN CONSOMÉ, (Consommé de Volaille Clarifié). Put into a soup pot eight quarts of white chicken broth (No. 188) , add two pounds of knuckle of veal, one pound of chicken legs and pinions, then boil, skim, and put in four pounds of roasted, unbrowned chicken, two minced leeks, one medium sized minced carrot, one onion stuck with one clove, a little parsley and celery roots. Boil continually for four hours. Chop up very fine two pounds of veal, mix in with it two whole eggs, dilute with one quart of cold broth and stir this into the consommé, using a whip, adding two broken up chicken carcasses. Boil on a slow fire for one hour, salt it according to taste, and strain it through a silk sieve. (191). CLARIFIED FISH CONSOMMÉ, (Consommé de Poisson Clarifié). Butter the bottom of a saucepan, garnishing it with sliced onions, and place on top six pounds of fish bones, such as bass, perch or any other gelatinous fish, a bunch of celery, parsley, bay leaf, thyme, one pound of minced carrots, a pound and a half of leeks, and dilute with one quart of water. Cover the saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and let fall to a colorless glaze, then moisten with four quarts of hot water, boil, skim and let simmer for one hour, then strain through a sieve, and clarify the broth with the whites of four eggs and half a bottleful of white wine. (192). CLARIFIED GAME CONSOMMÉ (Consommé Brun de Gibier Clarifié). Butter the inside of a very thick saucepan, cover the bottom with sliced onions, and lay on top three pounds of broken knuckle of veal and eight pounds of game, such as partridges, quails, pheasants and young rabbit, also half a pound of legs and pinions or bits of poultry, moisten with a pint of stock, place it on a moderate fire, and cover the saucepan; let steam and fall to a glaze, then dilute with half bottle of white wine, and ten quarts of stock or water. Boil, then skim and season with salt and two pepper corns for each quart of liquid, two cloves, also half a pound of carrots, one ounce of parsley roots, half a pound of leeks, two ounces of celery, the whole minced. Remove all the bones from two very fresh young rabbits; put these in with the stock and boil all for four hours; strain through a sieve and put it back into the saucepan; chop up fine the flesh from the rabbits with as much lean beef meat, mix in with it two whole eggs and dilute with half a bottleful of white wine. Skim off all the fat from the broth and stir in the chopped rabbits, continuing stirring for one minute, then let come to a boil, move it from the hot fire, and boil slowly and unceasingly for one half hour more; after the consommé is very clear, strain it through a silk sieve or through a napkin. (193). CLARIFIED LENT VEGETABLE CONSOMMÉ (Consommé maigre de Légumes Clarifié). Mince about three pounds of carrots and three pounds of turnips, one pound of the white of celery, one pound of onions, half a pound of parsley roots, a quarter of a pound of parsnips and a pound and a half of leeks. Put half a pound of butter into a saucepan, warm it and fry the vegetables, then moisten with two quarts of water and reduce slowly until they fall into a glaze. Dilute it with ten quarts of water, season with salt, pepper, half an ounce of sugar and cloves, adding one pound of mushroom stalks, then boil slowly until the vegetables are well done without mashing, and strain through a sieve. Return it to the fire and clarify the broth with the whites of four eggs and half a bottle of white wine. After it is very clear, strain it through a silk sieve or a napkin. (194a). BEEF STOCK OR BROTH (Grand Bouillon de Bœuf). Proportion of Ingredients. -Ten quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of chicken legs, one and one quarter ounces of salt, six ounces of leeks, half ounce of soup celery, eight pounds of meat with bone, twenty grains or cloves of black pepper, six ounces of carrots, one half ounce of parsnip, one half clove of garlic (if desired), two whole cloves, three ounces turnips, four ounces of onions, one of which stuck with two cloves. Put ten quarts of water into a stockpot, add eight pounds of beef meat (trimmings and bone ), let there be at least two-thirds meat, being careful to have both meat and trimmings well freed of fat; and a quarter of a pound of scalded chicken legs, after removing the outer skin. Heat this up slowly so that it comes gradually to a boil, then skim carefully and add twenty grains of whole black peppers and one and one quarter ounces of salt. Put into a net six ounces of carrots, three ounces of turnips, six ounces of leeks, half an ounce of parsnips, one half an ounce of soup celery, and two ounces of onions in which two cloves should be stuck. Close the net and set it in the pot; after the vegetables have cooked for two hours, remove the net containing the vegetables and continue boiling the soup for two hours longer, making four hours in all. Take off all the fat from the surface and strain the soup either through a silk tammy or a napkin; pour it into another pot to make consommé; and in case it should be needed the following day only, pour it into vessels and set it to cool; the following is an economical way of doing so: set the vessels in a water reservoir supplied continually with cold water from melting ice in the refrigerators and brought through a pipe in the bottom of the tank, have a larger overflow pipe placed near the top so as to allow the water as it heats to flow off. (194b). PARTS OF BEEF USED FOR PREPARING BOUILLONS AND STOCKS, SEE FIG. 302 (Parties du Bœuf Servant à Faire les Bouillons et les Fonds, Voir Fig. 302). These various pieces are No. 2, the cheek jowl; No. 3, the neck; No. 4, the brisket; No. 5, the cross- ribs; No. 6, the shin; No. 8, the plate; No. 9, the navel; No. 10, the inside flank; No. 11, the thick flank; No. 17, the round bottom; No. 18, the leg. The shin is the bottom part of the hind quarter the nearest to the ankle bone. The gelatinous flesh of the shin renders it suitable for the preparation of stock, broths and jellies. (195). GAME, VEGETABLE, FISH AND CHICKEN STOCK, FOR THICK SOUPS (Fonds de Gibier, Légumes, Poisson et Volaille pour Potages Lies). In order to make thick stock use consommé of game, vegetables, fish or chicken before they are clarified. Place half a pound of butter in a saucepan with half a pound of sifted flour of the best quality, let cook well on a slow fire without coloring when needed for vegetables, fish or chicken, but for game make a brown roux; for either one or the other dilute this roux with boiling broth (if the soup should be a chicken soup, chicken broth should be used to dilute the roux, if game soup then game broth should be used, fish with fish broth, for vegetable, vegetable broth ). Use a whisk turning it rapidly, so as to avoid having lumps; stocks for soups should be kept rather thin, that is to say but little thickened and should be well despumated, the fat removed before passing through the tammy; return the saucepan to the fire, and stir continuously with a spatula from the bottom until the broth boils. Remove the saucepan and place it so that only one side of the contents cook slowly for one hour; skim and take off all the matter that swims on the surface until the stock be entirely free from fat, and other impurities floating on top arising from the clarification, then strain through a tammy or fine sieve, and use this stock for thick soups either of game, vegetables, fish or poultry. (196). BISQUES (Bisques). An exquisite and delicious bisque. The ancient bisques made between the years 1700 to 1750, differed greatly from our modern bisques. They were more like stews than soups or potages and were prepared with squabs, quails, pullets and fish, the crawfish only serving as a garnish, and were basted over with a crawfish gravy. Bisques as they are made to-day, are simply a purée, thickened with rice, or thick stock, or wet crusts and accompanied by various garnishings. Bisques are divided into five classes: First, those made of clams, oysters or mussels; Second, crabs; Third, shrimps, Fourth, crawfish; Fifth, lobsters. They must be highly seasoned, although not containing much red pepper, rather clear than thick, slightly colored, and accompanied by small, simple garnishings. (197). BISQUE OR PURÉE OF CLAMS À LA HENDRICK (Bisque ou Purée de Lucines à la Hendrick). Put sixty medium-sized opened clams into a pan, with their own juice; set it on the fire, and when they are very firm to the touch drain and pound the clams with their equal weight of cooked hominy; after all is well pounded and reduced to a paste, wet it with the clam juice poured off gently from the top, and some water in case the bisque be too thick, then pass it through a sieve or tammy and season with red pepper and very little salt if necessary, warm the bisque without boiling it, and just when ready to serve incorporate therein some fine butter and a little cream, garnish with sippets of bread fried in butter and some small pike quenelles (No. 90) . (198). BISQUE OF CRABS (Bisque de Crabes). Put twenty-four live crabs in cold water with a little salt, and leave them to soak for one hour, mince four ounces of carrot and the same quantity of onion, fry them in butter in a saucepan sufficiently large to contain all the crabs, add some parsley sprigs, thyme and bay leaf, season with salt, half a bottle of white wine and some white stock, then cover and cook for fifteen minutes; lift out the crabs, strain the broth, and set it aside to rest, pouring off the top twenty-five minutes later. Remove the shells from the crabs; pick out the lungs from both sides, wash each one separately in tepid water and suppress the small legs, then drain well and pound them to a paste with half their quantity of cooked rice, dilute this purée with some of the juice they were cooked in, drain through a sieve and then a tammy and mix in one pint of bechamel (No. 409) . Season with salt and red pepper, heat up without boiling and just when ready to serve, incorporate therein a quarter of a pound of fine butter, stirring it well with a spoon until it be completely melted. Pour the very hot bisque into a soup tureen and serve separately a garnishing of pieces of bread cut into one quarter of an inch squares and fried in butter; divide them by putting six or eight in each separate soup-plate when serving. (199). BISQUE OF CRABS À LA STEVENS (Bisque de Crabes à la Stevens). Wash twenty-four live crabs in several waters; then drain them, fry half a pound minced onions in butter, adding a quarter of a pound of rice flour and then the crabs; moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and two quarts of broth; cook slowly in a covered saucepan for fifteen minutes, then lift out the crabs only, and strain the broth into another vessel, and leave it to deposit its sediment. Remove the large shells from the crabs, also the small legs and lungs, then wash the crabs well in warm water, moving them around in the pan so as to free them of all adhering sand; after draining them well, pound them in a mortar with the addition of a little butter; moisten them with the decanted stock and some other broth, should it be too thick; strain through a sieve or tammy, and return them to the saucepan. Heat to a boiling degree without actually letting it boil, warm it, then add some egg-yolks, cream and fine butter; strain again through a tammy and serve the soup very hot with crusts of bread cut dice shaped, a quarter of an inch in size. (200). BISQUE OF CRABS, ORIENTAL (Bisque de Crabes à l'Orientale). Prepare and cook the crabs the same as for bisque of crabs (No. 198) have one pound of onions, cut them in halves through the center of the root and stalk, remove from each side of the halved onion, and on the bias, one quarter of an inch of the root and stalk; mince this up very fine, blanch, then drain and fry the pieces in butter, moistening them with one part of cream. Pound well the crabs to reduce them to a paste and add six quarts of oatmeal previously cooked for thirty minutes in one quart of water. Add the onions, and when all is well mingled together, increase the quantity of bisque with the decanted crab juice and more broth, if the purée be too thick; strain through a sieve or tammy, return it to the fire, and heat it without boiling, and just when ready to serve, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Pour the soup into a very hot soup tureen and add a garnishing of crescent shaped quenelles, made of sweet potatoes (No. 317) . (201). BISQUE OF CRAWFISH (Bisque d'Écrevisses). Wash in several waters four dozen crawfish after removing the fins, the same as for bisque Persigny (No. 204) ; put the crawfish into a saucepan, pouring over half a bottleful of white wine, four ounces of minced onions, the same quantity of finely minced carrots, a few sprigs of parsley, one bay leaf, as much thyme, salt, mignonette, a little red pepper and half a pint of broth; cook all together for ten minutes with the cover on, tossing them several times in the meanwhile, then take them from off the fire and leave them standing for ten minutes longer in their broth; pour them into a colander to drain, and afterward select half of the finest, medium and equal sized ones; remove the tail ends from these, and the shells, and keep the meats aside for the garnishing, also half of the finest, but smallest shells from the head; stuff these with a red pike forcemeat finished with crawfish butter (for this see crawfish butter, No. 573 ), and with the remainder of the crawfish and the fragments make a bisque, pounding them with their equal quantity of rice; when all is well pounded, moisten with the broth they were cooked in and more plain broth, then strain through a sieve and a tammy. Warm it well without boiling, and incorporate into it when ready to serve, a piece of crawfish butter; pour the soup into the tureen and garnish with the tails and bodies both cut lengthwise in two. Crawfish bisque should be colored slightly more than the shrimp bisque. Use for coloring bisques some orchanet warmed in clarified butter or any other greasy substance, or clear vegetal carmine. Breton makes an excellent coloring for bisques. (202). BISQUE OF CRAWFISH À LA BATELIERE (Bisque d Écrevisses à la Batelière). After removing the fins from the middle of the tails as for à la Persigny (No. 204) , wash forty-eight crawfish in several waters, drain them, mince some carrots, leeks, onions and celery root, fry them in butter and just on the eve of browning, mix in a quarter of a pound of flour; cook the flour for a few minutes, and then add the crawfish, some sprigs of parsley, two bay leaves, salt and mignonette, cover the saucepan and cook for fifteen minutes, tossing them several times, then drain. Pick out the meat from the tails, cut them in two and reserve them for the garnishing: pound the shells as well as the claws with twelve hard boiled egg-yolks, and when a good paste is obtained, moisten it with the thick stock, strained first through a sieve not too fine, and afterward through a tammy; moisten again with fat or lean broth. Should the bisque be required for a lean dinner; warm it up without boiling and incorporate in half a pound of crawfish butter with cayenne and half a gill of Madeira wine. Set the crawfish tails into a soup tureen and pour the bisque over, and when serving the soup put into each plate six pieces of bread a quarter of an inch square, fried in butter. (203). BISQUE OF CRAWFISH À LA HUMBOLDT (Bisque d'Écrevisses à la Humbo ldt). Wash thoroughly in several waters, four dozen crawfish, after removing the fins from the middle of the tail (see bisque Persigny, No. 204 ), drain them, then fry in butter, some carrots, onions, leeks, celery and parsley roots all cut into small squares; moisten with half a bottleful of Rhine wine, the same quantity of broth, and season with salt, mignonette and cayenne, and a gill of tomato purée (No. 730) , put this with the crawfish on the fire in a well covered saucepan and cook for fifteen minutes, tossing them frequently while cooking; then drain them, and pick out the meat from the tails. Pound the shells with double their quantity of rice and when all forms a paste, moisten with the broth strained through a fine sieve; season and warm up without boiling, and when ready to serve, mix in a quarter of a pound of crawfish butter. Place the crawfish tails with small pancakes, cut round, five-eighths of an inch in diameter, in the soup tureen and pour the bisque over. (204). BISQUE OF CRAWFISH À LA PERSIGNY (Bisque d'Écrevisses à la Persigny). Remove the small black vein found in the center of the tail from forty-eight crawfish, using for this purpose either the tip of a knife, or else by twisting it round to the right, and pulling the fin away from the middle of the tail, and the vein attached to this will come off at the same time; it is most necessary to abstract this as it is always filled with sand. Wash the crawfish well; put them into a saucepan with a pint of broth, and the same quantity of white wine, salt, black pepper, two ounces of butter, two minced shallots, parsley and bay-leaf; boil for fifteen minutes, then drain and empty the bodies of twelve of the finest among them; pound the others to a fine paste, adding one quart of velouté sauce (No. 415) , and one quart of broth; let boil again for fifteen minutes, then add to the bisque, half a pound of sliced bread, buttered and browned in the oven; simmer for fifteen minutes longer; then strain first through a sieve, and then through a tammy. Heat it up once more, and just when ready to serve, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fine butter, with a little red pepper added; fill the empty bodies with chicken forcemeat (No. 62) and lobster or crawfish butter mixed; poach them in boiling water, and when done cut them lengthwise in two; have also a garnishing of crusts made with savarin, a quarter of an inch square, dried in the oven, and served separate. (205). BISQUE OF LOBSTER (Bisque de Homard). Plunge into boiling, salted water, twelve pounds of small, live, well washed lobsters; cook them for twenty-five minutes, then drain; break their shells, and extract all the meat. Pound the lobster meat with its equal quantity of boiled rice; season with salt and red pepper, then dilute it with fat broth or lean, should the bisque be desired lean, strain through a sieve, and again through a tammy. Heat it up without allowing it to boil, add a pint of béchamel (No. 409) , and half a pound of lobster butter (No. 577) ; stir well the bisque until the butter is thoroughly melted. Color a lobster bisque a deeper red than the crawfish. Crusts of brioche, a quarter of an inch square, and dried in the oven may be served at the same time. (206). BISQUE OF LOBSTER À LA BENOIST (Bisque de Homard à la Benoist). Mince very fine one medium carrots, one leek and two onions, fry them in butter and moisten with fat broth, or lean, some parsley sprigs, thyme, bay leaf, garlic, salt and black pepper. At the first boil, put in with this, twelve pounds of raw, live, and washed lobsters, continue to boil for thirty minutes, then drain them, break the shells, remove all the meat, reserve that from the claws, and pound the remainder with its equal quantity of wheat en grits. Make a light roux with four ounces of butter and five ounces of flour, moisten it with some of the broth the lobsters were cooked in, boil, skim, add this to the lobster preparation. Heat it up all together, then strain through a sieve and afterward through a tammy, warm it up again and just when ready to serve and very hot, stir into the bisque a piece of lobster butter (No. 577) , and a quart of double cream. Put a garnishing into the soup tureen and pour the soup over; serve as a garnishing the lobster meat from the claws cut into small Julienne (No. 318) , and small cream forcemeat quenelles, laid through a cornet on a buttered tin, and poached in a little boiling water. (207). BISQUE OF LOBSTER À LA CAMBRIDGE (Bisque de Homard à la Cambridge). Select twelve pounds of small, live lobsters, eight of them in all; remove the claws and cook them apart in boiling, salted water for twenty-five minutes. Cut in slices crosswise the remainder of the lobsters, fry these pieces in butter on a hot fire, adding four tablespoonfuls of flour; when slightly colored, moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and two and a half quarts of broth, half a gill of brandy, salt and pepper. Cook all for fifteen minutes, then remove the meat from the shells, pound it to a paste, and dilute it with its own broth; strain through a sieve, and afterward through a tammy; mix in one quart of béchamel (No. 409) ; warm up without boiling, and just when ready to serve, thicken the soup with twelve raw egg-yolks diluted in a quart of cream, and when the soup thickens, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of lobster butter (No. 577) . Put the following garnishing into a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. Remove the meat from the boiled lobster claws, cut the red part of it in slices an eighth of an inch thick, and from these punch out rounds three-quarters of an inch in diameter, using a column tube for the purpose: also have small, round quenelles, half an inch in diameter, made from the fillets of a pike or whiting in the shape of round beads. (208). BISQUE OF LOBSTER À LA PORTLAND (Bisque de Homard à la Portland). Cut twelve pounds of lobster lengthwise in two, break the claws, sprinkle over some butter, and cook them on a baking-sheet in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. Remove them, and suppress the largest shells, pound the meat with its equal quantity of plain boiled rice, seasoned with salt, pepper, and curry, and when all is well reduced to a paste, dilute it with broth; strain through a sieve and then a tammy, and warm up the soup without boiling; thicken it with twelve hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with four ounces of butter, and mix in also a pint of double cream, and serve as garnishing some mushrooms cut into fine Julienne and lobster quenelles. Put the soup into a tureen. Lobster Quenelles. -Cut one pound of cooked lobster meat in thin slices, add the coral and two ounces of butter; pound well and when reduced to a paste, take it from the mortar. Pound three quarters of a pound of panada, add gradually to it half a pound of butter, then the lobster paste, three eggs, one after the other, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and two tablespoons of Allemande sauce, test and rectify if necessary (No. 60) . Roll this forcemeat to use for lobster quenelles, or else fill some sheeps' casings with it to make lobster boudins. (209). BISQUE OR PURÉE OF MUSSELS À LA CUTTING (Bisque ou Purée de Moules à la Cutting. Clean well three gallons of raw mussels, scraping them with a knife; wash them several times in clean waters, and take them out with the hand so as not to disturb the sand settling at the bottom. Put them into a saucepan with minced onions, sprigs of parsley, pepper (no salt ), and one pint of water; set the saucepan on the fire, and when they begin to get warm, toss them and return them to the fire; cover the pot, and toss them again frequently, until the mussels open and are well cooked, then take them off, and pick them from the shells, reserving about thirty of the smallest for the garnishing. Strain the juice, and let it rest so as to be able to pour off the top and avoid the sediment at the bottom, pound the mussels with as much pearl barley (half a pound) cooked in water, salt and butter, for three hours; moisten with the mussel gravy and water in case the soup be too thick; season with salt and red pepper, then strain all through a fine sieve or tammy; warm it without letting it boil, and just when ready to serve put in a piece of fresh butter, stirring it well into the soup with a spoon until it be melted. Garnish the soup with the thirty small mussels laid aside, and savarin croûtons, a quarter of an inch square and dried in the oven. All lean bisques are made exactly the same as the fat ones, only substituting fish broth for meat, and garnishing with milts, scallops of sauted eel fillets, pike, quenelles with crawfish butter, crawfish tails, and the hearts of oysters. The sieve used for the bisque or purée is a round strainer made so as to fit in the mortar having a flange on the edge to fit the outside of it, the pestle is used to force the substance to be passed through it. (210). BISQUE OR PURÉE OF OYSTERS À LA WILSON (Bisque ou Purée d'Huîtres à la Wilson). Put sixty medium sized oysters in a saucepan with their own juice, set it on a hot fire to poach them; then drain. Fry colorless in some butter, two medium shallots and the same quantity of onions; dredge some curry over, and moisten with some of the oyster juice, season with salt and red pepper. Pound the oysters, and when they are a firm paste, wet them with some of their juice, and strain them through a fine sieve or tammy, warm them without boiling, adding a thickening of potato flour diluted in cold water, one tablespoonful for each quart, and when ready to serve, mix in some cream and fine butter; make a garnishing of chopped oysters and mushrooms. mixing some bread-crumbs and fine herbs with these, and seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add some raw egg-yolks and roll this mixture into balls; lay them on a buttered baking sheet, and poach them in a slack oven. (211). BISQUE OF SHRIMPS À LA VERAGUA (Bisque de Crevettes à la Veragua). Cut into small three-sixteenth of an inch squares, two ounces of carrots, four ounces of onions and two ounces of celery root; put into a saucepan six ounces of butter, fry therein the vegetables without browning and add three pounds of fresh, well washed shrimps, one bay leaf and several sprigs of parsley, also a bottleful of white wine and half a pound of chopped mushrooms. Boil for ten minutes, drain, remove the parsley and bay leaf, then shell a quarter of the shrimps, suppressing the tails, which must be laid aside for the garnishing, pound the rest of the shrimps with the shells of those the tails were taken from, add one-fourth of the same quantity of rice and moisten with the stock and broth; strain this purée through a sieve or tammy, add one pint of béchamel, season with salt and cayenne pepper; warm without boiling, and just when ready to serve, add to it a piece of fine butter and some cream. Serve the soup very hot, with Savarin crusts, five-eighths by one-eighth of an inch thick, and dried in the oven, also the shrimp tails cut into small squares. (212). BISQUE OF SHRIMPS À LA MELVILLE (Bisque de Crevettes à la Melville). Throw one pound of shrimps into boiling, un salted water and cook them for five minutes, drain, then dredge them over with salt and toss in a colander to mix the salt in well; when cold, shell the tails and keep them for garnishing. Mince one carrot, one onion, a celery stalk and two leeks, fry these in butter with one bay leaf and moisten with three quarts of either fish or vegetable stock and half a bottleful of wine; boil for twenty-five minutes, then put into this broth two pounds of raw shrimps and the shells of the tails reserved for the garnishing; boil for five minutes longer, then drain. Put into a stewpan two pounds of sliced bread cover it with broth and let simmer for twenty minutes, then drain it on a sieve, pound the shrimps, add the moistened bread, and continue pounding until all is reduced to a paste, then dilute with the shrimp broth, and press all through a fine sieve, season and strain through a tammy. Heat it up till near the boiling point, but do not allow it to boil, then thicken with eight egg-yolks diluted with two gills of cream and a quarter of a pound of good butter, incorporating it vigorously into the bisque with a spoon, then pour it into a very hot tureen, with the shrimp tails cut into three or four pieces as a garnishing. (213). BISQUE OF SHRIMPS, BRETONNE (Bisque de Crevettes, Bretonne). Have three pounds of very fresh shrimps, throw them into boiling salted water and boil them for a few minutes, then drain and remove the shells from the largest ones, allowing three for each person; stuff these with pike forcemeat (No. 90) , mixed with fine herbs; then poach them in boiling salted water, drain and keep them aside for garnishing the soup. Pound the remainder of the shrimps with a quarter of their quantity of crushed wheat en grits, previously cooked in water for thirty minutes, also twelve ounces of minced onion blanched and fried colorless in butter, adding to it six spoonfuls of flour diluted with milk, and cook all very slowly. Moisten the purée with broth, pass it through a sieve or tammy, put the purée into a saucepan, beat it to near the boiling point, then season with salt and cayenne pepper; when ready to serve add a piece of butter. Place the stuffed shrimp shells in the soup tureen, pour the soup over the purée and serve. (214). CONSOMMÉ, GARNISHINGS OF (Consommé, garnitures pour). Garnishings of Consommés. -Consommé garnishings are served separately, by placing them in a tureen and pouring over sufficient of the soup to cover them; having only a little consommé in the tureen it is easier to serve the garnishing without breaking; divide equally into each plate and pour over some clear consommé; in case the garnishing is to be served in the same tureen as the soup (to be avoided as much as possible) first put the consommé into the tureen, and then the garnishing that all may be very hot. The garnishings we are about to describe may be served with either beef, chicken, game or fish consommé, for the fish using the lean garnishings. Consommés can also be thickened with potato fecula or arrowroot, by diluting these substances in a little cold water or broth, pour it into the consommé, stirring it all the time with a whip, boil, skim and then add a little Madeira or Xeres wine. These soups are called clear thick soups when they are thickened either with fecula or arrowroot. (215). COSOMMÉ À L'ADÉLINA (Consommé à l'Adélina). The admitted rule for all soups is one quart of soup for four persons. The garnishing consists of round chicken quenelles, three-sixteenths of an inch, poached in boiling water; green peas cooked in boiling, salted water, and carrots cut into balls the same size and shape, and cooked in white broth with a little sugar. Also timbales, twelve pieces in all. Dilute one-quarter of a pint of purée of chestnuta with a quarter of a pint of cream and four egg-yolks, salt, and nutmeg; butter some dome shaped tartlet molds, put a round piece of truffle at the bottom, and then fill the molds with the above preparation; set one beside the other in a stewpan with boiling water reaching to half their height, and poach them in a slack oven; when firm to the touch, unmold and place them in a vegetable dish with the quenelles, carrots and green peas; pour over a little consommé, just sufficient to cover, and serve separately a tureen of consommé, having all very hot. Into each plate put some of the contents of the vegetable dish and tureen; this rule stands for all consommé garnishings, that is, one timbale, and a dozen and a half carrots, peas, and quenelles, inclusive. (216). CONSOMMÉ À L'ANDALOUSE (Consommé à l'Andalouse). For this consommé prepare a garnishing composed of timbales, cucumber crescents, and small quenelles. The timbales are made with a pint of tomato purée strained through a very fine sieve; mix into this ten raw egg-yolks and a gill of cream; season with salt and nutmeg. With this preparation fill some No. 2 timbale molds ( Fig. 137), stand them in a sautoire containing boiling water to reach to half their height and push into a slack oven; remove as soon as they are firm to the touch and let them rest for fifteen minutes, then divide each timbale into three parts. Place them in a vegetable dish with a little consommé. Pare some cucumbers to resemble crescent olives, blanch, drain, and cook in consommé. Have small quenelles made with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) , and cream forcemeat (No. 75) , half of each; push them through a pocket into rounds in a buttered sautoire and poach in a little boiling salted water; add the cucumbers and quenelles to the timbales, and serve at the same time with a tureen full of consommé. (217). CONSOMMÉ ANTONELLI, LEAN OR FAT (Consommé Antonelli, en Maigre ou en Gras) Use consommé of either chicken or fish, the following quantity being for twelve persons. Keep on the side of the range, three quarts of chicken consommé for fat, or fish broth for lean; thicken one or the other with three spoonfuls of tapioca, and cook for twenty-five minutes, skimming it nicely. Choose sixteen raw truffles, having all of them, if possible, one inch in diameter; peel them and mark with a column tube of five-eighths of an inch, a place for a cover; cut off the round cover using the tip of a small knife, and keep the piece aside; scoop out the insides with a vegetable spoon, leaving the surface as thin as possible, then salt them, and fill the empty space with a purée of goose livers (foies-gras) mixed with cream and egg-yolks, or if intended for lean, with a purée of salmon, béchamel, cream and egg-yolks. Close the opening with the piece laid aside, and arrange one beside the other in the bottom of a stewpan, just large enough to contain them; moisten them to half their height with consommé and Madeira, cover with buttered paper, and let the water boil, then place it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, so as to poach the preparation inside the truffles. Serve these truffles in a vegetable dish with sixteen fine cocks' kidneys if for fat, or if for lean, sixteen pike quenelles the same shape as the kidneys; serve also a garnishing of small stars cut from noodle paste, blanched and cooked in consommé. (218). CONSOMMÉ BALZAC (Consommé Balzac). The garnishing for this consommé is composed of three kinds of timbales, chicken, shrimps, and green peas, and turnip balls. For the Chicken Timbales have half a pint of chicken purée, two spoonfuls of béchamel, six egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. For the Shrimp Timbales, half a pint of shrimp purée, two spoonfuls of béchamel, six egg-yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. For the Green Pea Timbales, half a pint of purée of green peas (No. 261) , two spoonfuls of béchamel, six yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter twenty-four timbale molds ( Fig. 137, No. 2) fill each eight with a different one of the compositions; stand them on a baking tin with boiling water, reaching to half their height and poach in a slack oven. When partly cooled off, unmold, pare and divide in three parts, cutting them across. Put them into a vegetable dish with a garnishing of turnip balls, blanched, and cooked in consommé till they have fallen to a glaze; send this garnishing to the table with a soup tureen full of consommé. (219). CONSOMMÉ À LA BARIATENSKI (Consommé à la Bariatenski). Make a pancake preparation (3072), without sugar, and with it cook some very thin pancakes; when done cut from them pieces one and five-eighth inches long, by one and a half wide; spread over each piece a layer of chicken forcemeat, mixed with chopped mushrooms and parsley and a little anchovy paste; roll them up and lay them on a buttered baking pan; then poach them in a slack oven; prepare some marrow quenelles (No. 252) , roll them into balls, five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and poach them in boiling water; have also a pluche of chervil (No. 448) . Serve the same as for à l'Adelina (No. 215) , using chicken consommé. (220) CONSOMMÉ À LA BERRY (Consommé à la Berry). Prepare for this consommé a garnishing composed of small soft eggs (2949), and lozenges prepared as follows: Take a pint of purée of asparagus, beat in twelve egg-yolks, a little raw cream and seasoning; pour the preparation into buttered baking tins, the bottoms to be covered with a sheet of paper; poach in a slack oven and when cold turn them over on a napkin; remove the paper and cut up into small lozenges, one inch long, by half an inch wide; have also the same sized lozenges cut from both carrots and turnips, keeping them an eighth of an inch thick; blanch and cook separately in consommé and when done the liquid should be reduced to a glaze. Serve the garnishings in a separate tureen, accompanied by a tureen full of consommé. (221). CONSOMMÉ À LA BRITANNIA (Consommé à la Britannia). Put on to boil three quarts of fish consommé, or chicken if needed for fat; thicken it with three spoonfuls of arrowroot diluted with cold broth, and remove it to one side. Pound the meat from a cooked lobster by breaking the shells and removing about three-quarters of a pound of its meat, and add to it half a pint of velouté (No. 415) . Season and strain through a fine sieve, mix this with some chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75) , divide it into two parts, and color one of them delicate red; butter some long eight inch molds, by one and one-eighth square; fill half of each so as to form a triangle with the white forcemeat and the other half with the red, place the molds in a sautoire with water to half their height and poach them in a slack oven, then cut them in slices, a quarter of an inch wide. Have some asparagus tops, and serve the garnishing in a vegetable dish with a little consommé added, and a soup tureen of consommé separate. (222). CONOMMÉ CARêME, LEAN OR FAT (Consommé Carême en Maigre ou en Gras). For Fat. -Have chicken consommé, thickened with arrowroot, allowing one spoonful for each quart, and diluted in half a gill of Madeira wine. Spread over a sheet of buttered paper, a layer of cream forcemeat (No. 74), one-eighth of an inch thick, poach it in a slack oven, then let get cold, and cut it in lozenge-shaped pieces; prepare crusts half an inch square, or else round shaped six by one-eighth high, and fried in butter. A printanier composed of small vegetables, trimmed either with a column, or else a vegetable spoon, using carrots, turnips, and string- beans , blanch and cook them in white broth. For Lean. -Serve a fish consommé thickened with arrowroot and a garnishing composed of frog quenelles; a small printanier trimmed into squares, and each vegetable blanched separately and then cooked in fish consommé; crusts of bread cut round shaped, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, by an eighth of an inch in thickness, laid over with butter and browned in the oven. Frog Quenelles. -Pound one pound of frog's meat and rub it through a sieve; lay it aside; pound also five ounces of rice flour panada (No. 122) with five ounces butter, adding it in three different parts. While still continuing to pound, season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg; add the frog meat, pound again, then rub it all forcibly through a sieve. Mix in with it one whole egg, and two yolks, working them in well, then try the forcemeat and rectify it if necessary (see No. 60 ). With this forcemeat make some olive shaped quenelles, poach and add them to the rest of the garnishing. (223). CONSOMMÉ CÉLESTINE (Consommé à la Célestine). A garnishing of thin pancakes without sugar; spread over each pancake a layer of chicken forcemeat and fine herbs; set on top and press down another pancake, add another layer of forcemeat and one more pancake, and press the whole lightly, then with a column tube cut out round pieces one and three-quarters inches in diameter; lay these on a buttered baking tin, one beside the other, and leave them in a slack oven for about ten minutes, just allowing them time enough to poach. Place the garnishing in a tureen with some lettuce cut in very fine thread-like fillets, blanched and cooked in consommé and a pluche of parsley (a few leaves of young, blanched parsley ); serve at the same time a soup tureen of consommé. (224). CONSOMMÉ CHARMEL (Consommé Charmel). A garnishing of small timbales the shape of half an egg, and one inch in diameter, have some molds of this shape and size; butter the insides and set them on a tin sheet having inch high feet attached to it, place this on to a larger pan, the smaller one having holes bored in seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, and a space of a quarter of an inch between each. Prepare one pint of pigeon purée, adding to it half a pint of éspagnole sauce (No. 414) , reduced with Madeira, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and mingle all well together. Fill the molds with this preparation, pour water into the lower pan, a sufficient quantity to half the height of the molds, when set in the holes, and then poach them in a slow oven, unmold, and serve at the same time some braised sweetbreads pressed under a weight, cooled off and cut into three-eighth squares, then rewarmed in a little consommé; have also a few Julienne cut mushrooms. Serve this garnishing in a vegetable dish with a little consommé. Serve a soup tureen of consommé separate. (225). CONSOMMÉ COLBERT, WITH POACHED EGGS (Consommé Colbert, aux œufs pochés). A garnishing of carrots and turnips cut into quarter of an inch balls, then blanched and cooked spearately in white consommé. Green peas, lozenge-shaped string beans , and small sprigs of cauliflower, and some very small eggs poached in water, salted and acidulated with vinegar, crusts of bread-crumbs, six-eighths of an inch in diameter by one-eighth in thickness, masked with butter and browned in the oven. (226). CONSOMMÉ COMUS (Consommé Comus). A garnishing of small round rolls one and a quarter inches in diameter, made of ordinary bread dough; in these make an incision around the flat side and empty out the insides completely. Blanch some white cabbage leaves, suppressing the cores, drain them and cut them up very fine, then fry them in butter with quarter of its quantity of cooked ham cut in one eighth inch squares; moisten with a little white wine, add half its quantity of cooked, skinned and chopped up sausages; set this into the rolls, cover the tops with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) , and poach them in a slack oven. Lay them on a vegetable dish round side up; and moisten with a little good consommé, then let simmer for a few minutes in the oven; add some cooked foiesgras ( goose livers ) cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares, and some round five-eighth inch slices of lettuce, blanched and cooked in consommé. Serve this with a soup tureen of consommé at the same time. (227). CONSOMMÉ CREAM OF PHEASANTS OR GAME (Consommé Crème de Faisans ou Gibier). Choose small, fresh pullet eggs; boil them for four minutes in boiling water, then lay them in water to cool off and remove the shells; open them on one end with a tube half an inch in diameter from a column-box ( Fig. 168), take out the yolks with a root-spoon, and empty them very carefully, slightly decreasing the thickness of the white; then fill each egg separately; using a cornet for the purpose, with cream pheasant forcemeat (No. 75) , or other game forcemeat, as soon as each one is done, close the opening with the piece taken off, and set each one in an egg cup. Arrange these on the bottom of a deep stewpan containing a little boiling water, close the vessel, and poach the forcemeat, by putting the pan for fifteen minutes in a slack oven; dress the egg in a vegetable dish with a little consommé added, and serve at the same time a soup tureen of game consommé. (228). CONSOMMÉ À LA DAUMONT (Consommé à la Daumont). A garnishing of dome-shaped timbales decorated with truffles and filled with a maréchale mousseline (No. 912) ; then poach in a slow oven and serve separately, some blanched turnips and cut into balls three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and cooked in white consommé; small pâte à chou (No. 132) balls, with parmesan cheese, the size of green peas, and fried a fine color; some blanched chervil (pluche), and rice cooked in white broth. Serve all the garnishing in a vegetable dish, and a tureen of chicken consommé at the same time. (229). CONSOMMÉ À LA DUBARRY (Consommé à la Dubarry). A garnishing of timbales of mushrooms prepared as follows: half a pint of mushroom purée, half a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409) , eight egg-yolks and one whole egg; season with salt and nutmeg and fill with this some low and plain, buttered tartlet molds, poach them in a slow oven, unmold, and set them in a vegetable dish with some semolina quenelles, serve the garnishing separately with a soup tureen full of game consommé and crusts of bread, five-eighths by one-eighth of an inch, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven. Semolina Quenelles. -Take a quarter of a pound of butter, beaten to a cream with eight raw egg-yolks, mixing them in gradually, add to it seven ounces of semolina, salt, pepper and nutmeg, and with this preparation make some small quenelles with coffeespoons; poach them slowly for thirty minutes. They should swell up to twice their original size. (230). CONSOMMÉ À LA DUCHESS (Consommé à la Duchesse). The garnishing for this consommé is composed as follows: prepare some bread-crumb croûtons half an inch thick by five-eighths in length, slit them with the tip of a small knife at one-eighth of an inch from the edge all around; stand them on a baking sheet, pour over some melted butter and brown in a hot oven, remove, lift off the covers, scoop out the inside crumbs. Fry a little finely chopped onion in butter, dilute with some béchamel and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add the same amount of finely chopped lobster meat, thicken with egg-yolks, cream, and a little nutmeg; with this preparation fill the crusts, cover the tops with quenelle forcemeat finished with lobster butter and poach in a slack oven, then dress. Serve some consommé in a separate soup tureen containing rice, blanched and cooked in consommé, and small green peas, cooked English style (2745). The croustades to be served separately at the same time as the consommé. (231). CONSOMMÉ À L'IMPÉRATRICE (Consommé à l'Impératrice). For garnishing, have quenelles half-spherical shape, decorated with truffles and filled with a cream forcemeat, then poached in a slow oven; as soon as they are firm to the touch, unmold and set them in a vegetable dish with a little consommé and some rice cooked in white broth, some very small fresh green peas and rounds of red carrots, blanched and cooked in broth; serve separately a soup tureen of chicken consommé. (232). CONSOMMÉ À LA FLORENTINE (Consommé à la Florentine). Make a garnishing of small stars cut from carrots each one an inch and a quarter in diameter by one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness; blanch them in boiling, salted water, then finish to cook in consommé; have also inch diameter rings made of chicken forcemeat (No. 62) , colored with spinach green laid through a pocket on buttered tins, then poached in boiling, salted water; some rounds cut from turnips three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness by three-quarters of an inch in diameter, blanched, cooked in consommé and reduced to a glaze; when the liquid has all evaporated the turnips should be done. Serve these garnishings with a little consommé and at the same time a soup tureen of hot consommé. (233). CONSOMMÉ À LA FRANKLYN (Consommé à la Franklyn). The Garnishing. -Cut out some rounds with a three-sixteenth inch tube from some slices of carrots a quarter of an inch thick, and from the reddest part. Trim some slices of turnip the same, and punch out the same quantity of pieces as of carrot, using the same tube, and cook them in consommé with a little sugar; also cook some string beans cut lozenge-shape in salted water and afterward drain all well. Butter some timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137); garnish them to three-quarters of their height with the vegetables, blending well the colors, and fill up the molds with a preparation made from a pint of cream, eight egg-yolks, two whole eggs, salt and nutmeg, strained through a sieve. Set these molds in a stewpan, with boiling water to cover half their height, and push them into a slack oven; when the preparation is poached remove them from the oven and set them away to cool. Unmold them and trim off the tops; then cut them through the center crosswise, and place them in a vegetable dish with a little consommé; also have pearl barley blanched and cooked in consommé; make some stars with bits of rolled-out puffed paste, a sixteenth of an inch in thickness, and baked in an almost cold oven, so that they remain white, these to be served on a plate apart. Serve a soup tureen of consommé at the same time as the garnishing, and allow three stars to each plate of soup. (234). CONSOMMÉ À LA GRAMMONT (Consommé à la Grammont). For the Garnishing. -A quarter of a pound of filbert nuts, pounded with half a pint of cream, when reduced to a paste, place this purée into a bowl with half a pint of suprême sauce (No. 547) , and ten whites of eggs; season, press through a sieve and then set the preparation into buttered timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), lay them in a stewpan, one beside the other, with sufficient boiling water to cover half the height of the mold, then poach them in a slack oven, unmold, and cut them in two across the center; arrange them in a deep dish or vegetable dish; besprinkle them with a little consommé and have also game quenelles molded in molds, the size and shape of half a bird's egg cut lenghtwise; in order to make these quenelles, mix an equal quantity of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) , with game and cream forcemeat (No. 75) , and turnips cut into three-eighths of an inch balls, using either a vegetable or root spoon, then blanch and cook them in white consommé. (235). CONSOMMÉ À LA HONGROISE (Consommé à la Hongroise). For this consommé make some of the following biscuits : beat twelve egg-yolks in a vessel, whip the whites to a stiff froth and mix them lightly with the yolks; also four ounces of sifted flour and two ounces of grated parmesan; season with pepper, nutmeg and powdered parmesan; spread this evenly on a sheet of paper, keeping it three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and cook in a slack oven. Detach the paper, and cut the biscuit up into lozenges an inch and a half long by three-quarters of an inch in width. Besides this, prepare another garnishing with half a pint of onion purée and the same quantity of cream, six egg-whites, salt, paprika and nutmeg; with this fill some timbale molds (No. 4, Fig. 137), stand them in a sautoire, with boiling water, to half their height and poach in a slack oven; unmold, and divide in two, longitudinally. Make some small potato quenelles in the shape of a three-eighth of an inch ball; poach them in boiling salted water. Place the timbales and the quenelles in a vegetable dish, cover with consommé and serve the biscuits separately the same time as the soup. Potato Quenelles. -Put ten ounces of purée of potatoes in a saucepan and dry thoroughly, working continuously to avoid burning. When it detaches from the pan, add to it two ounces of butter; season with salt and nutmeg, add four raw egg-yolks and mix in gradually two ounces of pâte à chou (No. 132 ). (236). CONSOMMÉ À LA LAGUIPIERRE (Consommé à la Laguipierre). For Garnishing. - Butter some small molds, shaped like small half pigeon's eggs; fill these with a game mousse, made of any seasonable game; set them on tin sheets; poach in a slack oven, unmold, and serve them in a separate vegetable dish, adding some oval shaped chicken quenelles, laid on a buttered tin through a bag, and poached in a little boiling water in a slow oven. Serve separately small one-quarter inch square crusts made of twelve turns of puff paste or trimmings and baked white in a very slow oven. (237). CONSOMMÉ À LA NOAILLES (Consommé à la Noailles). A garnishing made of artichoke bottoms, two inches in diameter; remove the centers, using a half inch tube for the purpose, then divide the rest into sixteen equal sized pieces, and pare them nicely; put them into a vegetable dish with a little consommé, also some consistent Royal garnishing (No. 241) , cut into quarter of an inch squares. Have also round timbales made of game, hare, or leveret, or any other seasonable game; half a pint of game purée, half a pint of éspagnole sauce with tomatoes (No. 414) ; salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five whole or twelve yolks; butter the insides of the molds, fill them with the preparation, and poach them in a slow oven; when firm to the touch, unmold and set them in a vegetable dish with the royal cream cut in squares, and the artichoke bottoms. Serve very hot, and at the same time send a soup tureen of game consommé slightly thickened with arrowroot; adding just when ready to serve a little good Xeres or Madeira wine. (238). CONSOMMÉ À LA PLUMEREY (Consommé à la Plumerey). For the Garnishing. -Have some lettuce soaked in cold water, then washed in several waters to remove all the adhering sand, blanch in plenty of water, cool off, and press out all the liquid, bend the leaves over, one third of their length at the top, trim the stalks nicely, braize them for one hour and serve them in a vegetable dish after dividing them in two, lengthwise. Have half a pint of purée of duck; the same quantity of suprême sauce (No. 547) , half a pint of bouillon, twelve raw egg-yolks, and two whole eggs, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then press it through a tammy, and fill some buttered timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137.), with this preparation; poach them in a slack oven, unmold, cut in two crosswise, and add them to the lettuce. Crusts of bread five-eighths of an inch square by one-eighth of an inch thick, sprinkled over with butter, and browned in the oven; serve these separately; send to the table at the same time a tureen of chicken consommé; serve in each plate, half a lettuce, and one slice or half a timbale, pour over some consommé and add three croûtons for each person. (239). CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER WITH QUENELLES (Consommé Printanier aux Quenelles). Put two quarts of clarified consommé on to boil. Prepare a garnishing composed of tender carrots, turnips, celery roots, cucumbers, asparagus tops, string beans cut lozenge-shape, also small flowerets of cauliflower; cut the roots either olive or ball-shape, using a vegetable-spoon, blanch them in salted water, then let fall to a glaze several times in a little broth until they are cooked, then put them as soon as done into the soup tureen, adding the cauliflower, asparagus and some green peas previously boiled in salted water. Besprinkle this garnishing with a pinch of sugar, pour the broth over, and finish with small quenelles, three-eighths of an inch in diameter, having a quarter of the quantity of the other garnishing. Serve the soup with slices of toasted bread instead of the quenelles; when needed for a plain printanièr, and for a consommé printanièr royale, employ the same garnishings, adding slices of timbales royale (No. 241) . (240). CONSOMMÉ À LA RÉMUSAT (Consommé à la Rémusat). Mince up fine one small white onion, one carrot and one turnip, half a celery knob, and the white part of a leek; fry these very slowly with some butter, season, and moisten with a little broth, then cook them covered, letting the liquid fall several times to a glaze, and until the vegetables are well done; press them through a tammy, and put this purée into a bowl. For one pint, add ten raw egg-yolks and one whole one, half a pint of cream, a pinch of sugar, salt and nutmeg; pour this preparation into buttered timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137) and poach by putting them into a stewpan with boiling water to half their height. When done cut each timbale in two through the center crossways and place them in a vegetable dish with some small chicken forcemeat quenelles, colored white, red and green, and pushed through a cornet on a baking sheet into the shape of beads, a quarter of an inch in diameter, having the same quantity of each color, and poach them in boiling salted water; drain them, and add them to the slices of timbale; serve separately and at the same time a soup tureen of chicken consommé. (241). CONSOMMÉ À LA ROYAL (Consommé à la Royale). Butter some timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), then fill them with the following preparation, mix well one pint of cream, eight egg-yolks, two whole eggs, salt and nutmeg; strain it through a sieve, and fill up the timbales, put them into a stewpan with boiling water reaching to half their height, and poach them in a slack oven, until firm to the touch. Remove them from the oven, let get partially cold, then unmold, and cut them crosswise through the center; put them into a separate vegetable dish with some white of chicken, mushrooms and truffles cut into small pieces an eighth of an inch square by five-eighths long. Serve at the same time a soup tureen of chicken consommé. (242). CONSOMMÉ À LA SÉVIGNÉ (Consommé à la Sévigné). For the garnishing, butter some timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), and fill them with the following preparation: one pint of the purée of the white of chicken made with equal parts of chicken and rice, cooked in consommé, the whole passed through a sieve, and moistened with one gill of suprême sauce (No. 547) , eight egg-yolks, and one gill of cream, seasoning with salt and nutmeg. Set the timbales in a sautoire with boiling water reaching to half their height, and poach them in a slack oven; then let get partially cold, and unmold: and cut them crosswise through the center. Lay them in a vegetable dish with a little good consommé and some boiled green peas, serve separately, but at the same time, a soup tureen of chicken consommé. (243). CONSOMMÉ À LA SOUVERAINE (Consommé à la Souveraine). A garnishing of timbales. Make a preparation with one pint of mushroom purée, two gills of éspagnole sauce with essence of game (No. 414) , ten egg-yolks, salt, red pepper, and nutmeg; fill some dome-shaped molds with this, and poach them in a slack oven, placing the molds in a stewpan with boiling water reaching to half their height; when done, which means firm to the touch, unmold them, and put them into a vegetable dish with some consommé, also some turnips cut into triangles, half an inch by an eighth of an inch thick, blanched and cooked in consommé, squares of the red part of carrot cut the same thickness, blanched and cooked with consommé some artichoke bottoms cut into quarter of an inch squares, and half inch round pieces of blanched lettuce leaves. (244). CONSOMMÉ WITH SWALLOW'S NEST, AND CHINESE BIRD'S NEST SOUP (Consommé aux nids d'Hirondelles de Chine, et Potage aux nids d'Hirondelles). A Garnishing. -Salanga from the Philippine Islands; these swallows build their nests in the rocks on the seashore. The nests greatly resemble shells and are formed of a transparent, yellowish material: certain naturalists affirm that they are the spawn of fish picked up from the ocean. For twelve persons, put six swallows' nests to soak in cold water for twelve hours; drain them and clean them carefully, removing with a coarse needle all the bits of feathers, and small, almost imperceptible black spots found adhering to the nest. Wash them well in several waters, then lay them in a saucepan and cover them with white broth; let it come to a boil, then set it on one side, and leave it in the same degree of heat, only it should not boil; drain the nests, put them in a soup tureen, and pour over an excellent chicken consommé. Swallows's nests can be obtained all the year round, the price varying according to their rarity. Chinese Bird's Nest Soup. -The Chinese in New York prepare this soup in the following way: For each person soak about half an ounce of swallows' nests for four hours in cold water, then drain. Place a young fowl in a soup pot, cover with water and let boil, add a few sprigs of parsley and salt, boil slowly and when the fowl is done, take it out and strain the broth, skimming off all the fat. Cook the birds' nests in some of this broth, take it from the fire at the first boil, cover well and keep it in a bain-marie, to it add some lean ham cut in thin strips. Remove all the fat from the broth, strain it over the nests and put it back on the fire until it almost attains boiling point, now add the cooked chicken meat, free of fat, nerves or skin and cut up into quarter inch dice; season to taste and serve. (245). CREAM SOUPS (Potages Crème). I believe it to be more advisable to select fresh vegetables for making cream soups, and to thicken them with raw egg yolks, butter and cream. The flavor of the fresh vegetables combined with the velvety liaison, helps to make these thick soups highly estimated, even were the cream and eggs to be suppressed. Purées can be made of these creams, finishing by them as indicated in the purée soups. For Lenten cream soups, moisten them with a vegetable stock instead of broth, and use lean béchamel, in the place of velouté. Cream soups will be improved by passing them through a tammy. (246). CREAM OF ARTICHOKES, MORLAISIAN (Crème d'Artichauts, Morlaisienne.) Trim well some artichoke bottoms so that all the green part of the leaves be removed; mince up two pounds of this, blanch and drain them. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when very hot, set in the artichokes and fry them without browning; moisten with two quarts of broth; cover the saucepan, and let boil slowly until the artichokes are done, then drain and mash them in a mortar; and pass the purée through a fine sieve; put it back into a saucepan, and dilute it with its own broth, adding one pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) . Set it on the fire and stir con-constantly, bearing on the bottom of the saucepan with a spatula; let boil up once, then remove all the fat; season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, cream and butter. The quantity of liaison for each quart of this soup, is two egg-yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of butter. Serve separately some Savarin croûtons, a quarter of an inch square, and dried in the oven. (247). CREAM OF ASPARAGUS À LA ST. VALLIER (Crème d'Asperges à la St. Vallier). Mince up fine, five medium-sized onions, throw them into boiling salted water, and let them boil for five minutes, then drain, and fry them in a quarter of a pound of butter without coloring; add four heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, and let fry slowly for several minutes, then put in with them two pounds of green and tender asparagus, cut in one-inch length pieces, washed several times, and blanched for ten minutes in boiling, salted water. Moisten with two quarts of broth, and when the asparagus is done, drain it off, and mash it in a mortar diluting it with its own broth : pass all through a fine sieve, and put the purée into a saucepan, to heat; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and after it begins to boil, remove all the fat arising to the surface; just when ready to serve, thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, diluted in cream, and incorporate therein some fine butter. Serve in a soup tureen with a garnishing of green peas and small quenelles, three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter, laid through a cornet on a buttered pan, and poached in some boiling salted water, poured into the pan; when done, drain them, and add them to the soup. (248). CREAM OF ASPARAGUS WITH CROûTONS SOUFFLÉS OR ASPARAGUS TOPS (Crème d'Asperges aux Croûtons Soufflés ou aux pointes d'Asperges). Bend some small green asparagus, beginning at the root end, so as to break it off, keeping only the tender parts (two pounds); cut into one inch length pieces, wash well, changing the water several times, then drain and throw into boiling, salted water, continue the boiling for ten minutes, then drain. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan; when very hot add the asparagus, and fry colorless on a quick fire; moisten with two quarts of broth, and when done, drain and mash; then pass through a fine sieve. Add one pint of velouté (No. 415) to the broth, color it with some spinach green or Breton vegetable coloring, season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and just when serving thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks diluted in cream, and work in two ounces of butter (No. 175) . Serve separately some croûtons soufflés made with pâté a chou (No. 132) rolled in strings and cut in three-sixteenth of an inch lengths; these pieces to be rolled in flour, then rolled around in a sieve to make them round. Fry in hot fat; or asparagus tops may be served as a garnishing instead of the croûtons. (249). CREAM OF BARLEY, VIENNA STYLE, OR OF RICE À LA CRÉMIEUX (Crème d'Orge à la Viennoise, ou de Riz à la Crémieux). Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, and when very hot, add four ounces of well cleaned pearl barley; heat it, then moisten with four quarts of broth; cover the saucepan, and cook the barley slowly for three hours, or more, until it yields easily to the pressure of the finger, then drain and pound in a mortar, diluting it with its own stock, afterward straining through a sieve or tammy. Return it to the fire, and in case it should be too thick add more of the broth; stir continually with a spatula, bearing on to the bottom of the saucepan, until the soup is ready to boil; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and add the thickening to the soup, stirring it in well until all the butter is melted (No. 175) . For Cream of Rice à la Crémieux. -Pound or mash well in a mortar, half a pound of fresh bread-crumbs, mixing in gradually two whole eggs, and the third of its quantity of fine butter; form this into small, round cakes, seven-eighths of an inch in diameter and one-eighth of an inch thick; bake them in a hot oven, and serve the same time as the soup. The cream of rice is prepared exactly the same way as the barley, the only difference being that this requires less cooking than the barley. (250). CREAM OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS (Crème de Choux de Bruxelles). Blanch in boiling, salted water for ten minutes, two pounds of well cleaned Brussels sprouts, drain and fry them in butter, then moisten with two quarts of white broth, and when cooked, drain them into a mortar, and mash them to a paste; dilute this purée with its own broth, and should it be too thick, add some more white broth, then strain through a sieve or tammy, and add one pint of velouté (No. 415) ; heat all up without boiling, and thicken with two egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter, this being the quantity to use for every quart of soup. Serve separately a garnishing of brioche croûtons (No. 51) , one quarter of an inch square, and dried in the oven. (251). CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER, BRISSON (Crème de Choux fleurs à la Brisson). Divide the cauliflower into several parts, clean them well, pare nicely, and remove the hearts; it will require two pounds for the soup. Cook them until half done in boiling, salted water, then drain and fry in four ounces of butter, moistening with two quarts of white broth; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and when the cauliflowers are done, drain off the broth, and mash in a mortar to reduce to a paste; dilute this with its own broth, add one pint of velouté (No. 415) , and if the purée be too thick, then add more white broth. Set it on the fire to heat without boiling, and just when ready to serve, thicken it with cream, raw egg-yolks and butter (No. 175) . Serve a garnishing of croûtons soufflés, with parmesan cheese made as explained (No. 248) , having added grated parmesan cheese to the paste. (252). CREAM OF CELERY OF CARDOONS À LA LIVINGSTONE (Crème de Celeri ou Cardons à la Livingstone). For the Celery, remove the threads covering the stalks; have two pounds of very white, cut-up celery, blanch it in plenty of water, and cook in two quarts of white broth; when done, drain and mash it well to reduce it to a paste, diluting it with its own broth; press it through a fine sieve or tammy, add one pint of velouté (No. 415) , and some more broth should the purée be too thick; then heat the soup without letting it boil, seasoning with salt, sugar and nutmeg. Thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and butter (No. 175) . Serve in a separate tureen a marrow quenelle garnishing. Marrow Quenelles. -Melt half a pound of well cleansed marrow; strain into a cool bowl through a fine muslin; beat it till it becomes a cream, then add eight egg-yolks one by one, and beat again until thoroughly incorporated, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, add half a pound of white and very fresh bread-crumbs; divide this into four parts and form these into strings half an inch thick, then cut them across to have each one-half an inch long; roll in flour and poach in boiling water; serve with the soup. The cream of cardoons is made in exactly the same way as the cream of celery. (253). CREAM CHIFFONNADE WITH CRUSTS OR OF LEEKS WITH QUENELLES (Crème Chiffonnade aux Croûtes ou de Poireaux aux Quenelles). Prepare one pound and a quarter of lettuce leaves, eight ounces of sorrel leaves, three ounces of water -cress, and one ounce of chervil leaves, all well washed in several waters, and cut up very fine. Put half a pound of butter into a saucepan, and when very hot, add the herbs, and allow them to fry without attaining a color, then moisten with two quarts of veal stock or white broth, and boil for one-half hour, adding a quart of velouté (No. 415), and a thickening of four egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter for each quart of soup; strain through a sieve, and season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg. Serve a garnishing of round shaped bread crusts seven-eighths by one-eighth of an inch, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven. For the Cream of Leeks, have two pounds of the white part of leeks, prepared and finished as for the chiffonnade, but instead of round bread croûtons, replace these by a garnishing of chicken quenelles (No. 89) . (254). CREAM OF CUCUMBERS À LA SHEPPARD (Crème de Concombres à la Sheppard). Peel or remove the green skin from the cucumbers, mince up two pounds of them, blanch them in boiling, salted water for ten minutes, then drain. Heat four ounces of butter in a saucepan; when very hot, add the cucumbers, and fry them colorless, moistening with two quarts of white broth; boil all slowly until the cucumbers are thoroughly done, and then drain and mash them in a mortar; thin out this purée with its own broth, and if still too thick, add some more white broth, and strain the whole through a tammy. Add one quart of velouté (No. 415) , season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and heat it up without boiling; remove all the white particles arising to the surface, and thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175) . Pour the soup very hot into a tureen with a good white of chicken garnishing allowing one ounce for each quart, and cut up into three-sixteenths of an inch squares. (255). CREAM OF CORN À LA HERMANN (Crème de maîs à la Hermann). Boil some corn on the cob in water having salt and butter added to it; drain, then cut off the tender part of the corn; about two pounds in all. Pound this in a mortar with thick béchamel sauce and dilute this purée with white broth. Place a pound of chicken forcemeat (No. 60) in a deep buttered dish; stand it in a sautoire with water reaching to half the height of the dish, let boil and then put it in a slack oven to poach the forcemeat; leave it to cool, then pound in a mortar adding the corn purée, and enough broth to obtain a not too thick purée; strain through a tammy, heat up without boiling, and just when ready to serve add, to thicken the soup, egg-yolk and cream; work in a piece of fresh butter. Serve separately some Compiègne croûtons browned in the oven. (256). CREAM OF CORN À LA MENDOCINO (Crème de mais à la Mendocino). Cook the corn on the cob in salted water, adding a piece of butter; when done, remove the grains, mash them in a mortar, and dilute the purée with a quart and a half of broth; strain through a sieve or tammy, and set it into a saucepan; heat it up without allowing it to boil, and season with salt, sugar and nutmeg. Just when ready to serve, thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and fine crawfish butter (No. 573) , with lemon juice added. Serve with a garnishing composed of shrimp tails, cut in small pieces. (257). CREAM OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Crème de Topinambours). Peel the artichokes, and afterward weigh two pounds of them, and mince them well. (Jerusalem artichokes can be imitated by using half artichoke bottoms, and half sweet potatoes. ) Mince up one-quarter of a pound or two medium onions; fry them in butter, and then add the artichokes; fry also. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and moisten with two quarts of white broth. Boil and cook slowly until the artichokes are easily crushed; then drain and mash them; increase the volume of the purée with the broth the artichokes have been cooked in, strain through a sieve or tammy, and heat up without boiling; just when ready to serve thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter (No. 175) . A garnishing is made of artichoke bottoms, cut into one-quarter of inch squares. (258). CREAM OF LETTUCE, ROMAINE OR CHICCORY À LA EVERS (Crème de Laitue, Romaine ou Chicorée à la Evers). Procure two pounds of lettuce, romaine or chiccory, and proceed exactly the same for either. Wash them in several waters after removing the greenish leaves, then cook them in boiling, salted water, until the hardest parts yield under the pressure of the finger, then drain and cool them off; squeeze out all the water, and chop them up coarsely. Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter, and when very hot, add the lettuce and let fry for a few minutes; moisten with two quarts of broth, then boil and simmer for fifteen minutes, adding one quart of velouté (No. 415) , strain through a sieve or tammy, heat it up again, and when the soup is near boiling point, thicken with egg-yolks, cream and butter (No. 175) , seasoning with salt, sugar, and nutmeg. Garnishing. -Pound in a mortar, one-half pound of bread-crumbs with two whole eggs, adding them in gradually, and half of the same quantity of pâte-à-choux (No. 132) , roll it out to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and cut in squares, then fry in clarified butter. (259). CREAM OF LIMA, KIDNEY OR HORSE BEANS (Crème de Haricots de Lima, Flageolets ou Fèves de Marais). The manner for preparing either of these creams is exactly the same; cook till half done in salted water, two pounds of lima bean s. Drain them and fry them colorless in two ounces of butter; moisten with two quarts of white broth, season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, then cook slowly until thoroughly done; drain them and mash them in a mortar, moistening with two and a half quarts of white broth, then strain this purée either through a fine sieve or tammy, adding to it one pint of velouté (No. 415) , return it to the fire, let heat to near boiling, then despumate well all the scum and grease arising to the surface, and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream, and fresh butter (No. 175) . A garnishing of bread croûtons of five-eighths of an inch square by one-eighth of an inch in thickness, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven. (260). CREAM OF PEAS À LA ST. GERMAIN (Crème de pois à la St. Germain). Throw into boiling, salted water, two pounds of medium-sized peas, and boil them for ten minutes with a little piece of mint; drain them, then put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when warm, throw in the peas, and let them fry for a few minutes; moisten with white broth, adding a few lettuce leaves, about four ounces, and two ounces of onions; the lettuce to be cut up fine, and the onions minced; season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg, and boil until the peas are thoroughly cooked, then drain, suppress the mint, and mash them in a mortar, moistening them with two and a half quarts of white broth. Press through a sieve or tammy, and return them to the saucepan with a pint of velouté (No. 415) ; should the purée be too thick, then add more broth; warm it well without boiling, and thicken the soup with egg-yolks, cream and butter, (No. 175) . Pour the soup into a soup tureen with some chopped up chervil, and a garnishing of extra fine peas. (261). CREAM OF PEAS WITH MINT (Crème de pois à la Menthe). Parboil two pounds of shelled green peas until partly cooked; then drain and put them on to fry with half a pound of fresh butter; moisten with white broth and add half a pound of minced white onions. When the peas are entirely cooked drain and pound them, diluting with velouté and the same broth they were cooked in; rub the whole through a tammy and return to the saucepan; put it on the fire and heat without boiling. Just when prepared to serve, thicken with egg-yolks, butter, and cream, adding a few mint leaves finely chopped and as garnishing some small chicken quenelles made with half chicken quenelle forcemeat, and half cream forcemeat laid through a pocket on a buttered baking tin. (262). CREAM OF SORREL WITH STUFFED EGGS (Crème d'oseille aux Œufs Farcis). Pick the hard stalks from the sorrel, wash it in several waters to free it from all the adhering sand, then drain and press it. Weigh two pounds of this, and chop it up fine; put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when hot, add the chopped sorrel and fry it colorless; moisten with a quart and a half of white broth, and one quart of velouté (No. 415) ; season with salt, sugar, and nutmeg; then put it on the fire to boil slowly, removing the butter floating on the top. Strain it through a sieve or tammy, and put it back to come to a boiling point without letting it boil, and thicken with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175) , adding to it at the last moment some lettuce chopped up and cooked in consommé. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve separately a garnishing of hard boiled, stuffed half eggs. A Garnishing of Stuffed Half Eggs. -Cut lengthwise in two, some small hard boiled eggs; remove the yolks, and fill the whites with chicken forcemeat and cream, mixing in with it chopped mushrooms, hard boiled egg-yolks and fine herbs; let the stuffing be dome-shaped, then dust over with grated parmesan; lay these eggs on a dish, and brown them nicely in the oven. Place them in a vegetable dish, and pass it around the same time as the soup. (263). CREAM OF SQUASH, TURNIPS OR CARROTS WITH COMPIèGE CROûTONS (Crème de Courges, de Navets ou de Carottes aux Croûtons de Compiè ;gne). Peel the squash and mince two pounds of the inside, with four ounces of onions, or else select young, tender turnips, peel and mince two pounds of these, or, cut some carrots so as to have two pounds of the reddest part; the turnips and carrots should be parboiled. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when hot, add one of the above vegetables chopped very fine, and after it is lightly fried without coloring, then moisten with two quarts of white broth, skim and continue to boil until thoroughly cooked, then drain, mash the vegetable to reduce it to a paste, and dilute with the stock it was boiled in; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and if too thick use more broth; thicken with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter. Compiégne croûtons (No. 51), cut in quarter of inch squares, and dried in the oven, should be served as a garnishing. Garnishing for Turnips. -Three ounces of butter worked with a small whip until perfectly white, then incorporate slowly into it two egg-yolks, two spoonfuls of sifted flour, salt, sugar, and nutmeg; mix in with this three whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and poach in a slow oven, in some buttered dome-shaped molds; unmold and serve separately the same time as the soup. Garnishing for Carrots. -Small chicken forcemeat and cream quenelles, laid through a cornet on a buttered pan and poached in boiling water, then drained and served with the soup. (264). CREAM OF STRING BEANS À LA VÉFOUR (Crème de Haricots Verts à la Véfour). Clean and blanch some beans in boiling, salted water, then drain them; put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and after the butter is warm, throw in the beans , and fry them for a few moments. Moisten with two quarts of broth, and let the beans cook, then drain, and pound them in a mortar, dilute them with some of their own broth, and should the purée be too thick, then add more broth, put the purée back into a saucepan adding one quart of velouté (No. 415) ; season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, and stir well while bearing the spoon on to the bottom till it reaches boiling point, but be careful that it does not boil. Thicken with egg-yolks, butter and cream. Serve separately a royal cream prepared as follows: A royal cream (No. 241) , garnishing poached in a buttered baking pan, let stand till cold, then cut it into small three-eighths of an inch squares and serve with the soup. (265). CREAM OF SWEET POTATOES À LA GÉRARD (Crème de Patates à la Gérard). Have two pounds of sweet potatoes previously steamed; peel, mince and fry them in four ounces of butter, moistening with two and a half quarts of white broth : cook until done, then strain and pound them in a mortar, diluting the purée with its own broth, and in case it be too thick, add some more white broth and a pint of velouté (No. 415) ; strain the soup through a sieve or tammy, then return it to the saucepan, and heat it to boiling point without allowing it to boil. Thicken with egg-yolks, cream and butter, using two egg-yolks, two gills of cream and two ounces of butter for each quart. The Garnishing to be of one-quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs pounded in a mortar, and mingling with it gradually two eggs and a third of its volume of pâte-à-choux (No. 132) ; roll it into small balls, three-sixteenths of a inch in size, and fry them in clarified butter, serving them the same time as the soup. (266). CREAM OF VEGETABLES À LA BANVILLE (Crème de Légumes à la Banville). Mince four ounces of leeks, six ounces of carrots, four ounces of turnip-cabbage, two ounces of celery, four ounces of turnips, and four ounces of onions. Place four ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when hot, add to it the finely minced vegetables and moisten with two quarts of white broth; boil, skim and cook slowly. As soon as the vegetables are well done, drain them, and pound them in a mortar, diluting the purée with some of its broth; strain through a sieve or tammy, heat it to a boiling point without letting it boil, then thicken with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175.) Garnishing, Small Buttered Timbales (No. 5, Fig. 137) filled with one layer of finely cooked chestnuts and one layer of cooked rice, filling them up with royal cream (No. 241) , and poach in a slack oven; unmold and serve these in a separate tureen with a little consommé poured over. (267). PURÉE OF CAPON À LA JUSSIENNE (Purée de chapon à la Jussienne). Prepare a delicate quenelle forcemeat as for No. 89 ; put a pound of this into a buttered mold furnished with a socket, and let poach by placing the mold in a saucepan containing boiling water, to half its height, and placing it on the fire; at the first boil take it off, and set it in a very slack oven until poached; then unmold, and let get cold. Pound this preparation in a mortar, diluting it with two quarts of broth and one quart of velouté (No. 415) ; strain through a sieve or tammy, and heat up without boiling; just when ready to serve, stir the broth well, and season it with salt and nutmeg, adding three ounces of butter, working it in until it is all melted. Pour the soup into a soup tureen. For garnishing have some rice blanched and cooked in white consommé, also some croûtons made of fragments of puff paste (No. 146) , cut a quarter of an inch square; they should be cooked in a very slack oven, and when done, served separately. (268). PURÉE OF CARROTS À LA CRÉCY (Purée de Carottes à la Crécy). Only use the red part of the carrot for this soup; mince up two pounds of red carrots, cutting them with a knife into thin lengthwise slices. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when it begins to heat, add to it two ounces of onions, and fry for one instant; then add the red carrots, and continue to fry slowly without letting it attain a color; moisten with three quarts of broth, salt; add a bunch of parsley, celery, and bay leaf, and boil until the carrots are entirely done; then put in half a pound of rice previously blanched, and cooked in consommé; drain, and mash the carrots and rice. Moisten this purée with the broth, and if it be too thick add some white broth to it; strain through a sieve or tammy, and return it to a clean saucepan; heat it to a boiling point, stirring continually, and bearing on the bottom of the saucepan with the spoon, to prevent the purée from adhering; let to boil slowly on one side of the saucepan only, for twenty minutes, removing all the scum and fat from the surface as quickly as it appears; season with salt, and sugar and when ready to serve incorporate gradually into it two ounces of fine butter, stirring the soup with a spoon until all the butter melts, and serve at the same time small quarter inch squares of bread-crumbs fried in butter. Rice, noodles, and Japanese pearls can also be served as garnishings for Crécy soup. (269). PURÉE OF CHICKEN À LA DUFFERIN (Purée de poulet à la Dufferin). Take a good three pound chicken; raise the fillets, break up the bones and put them into a saucepan, with three quarts of broth; leave to boil for an hour, then strain the liquid through a fine sieve. Sauté the removed fillets, then pound them with four hard boiled egg-yolks, and mix in slowly a pint of velouté; also two quarts of stock. Strain the purée through a tammy, heat up without letting it boil, and just when ready to serve incorporate in two ounces of fresh butter, working it well into the soup. Serve separately a garnishing of pearl barley, and puff paste croûtons cooked white, meaning cooked in a very slack oven. (270). PURÉE OF CHICKEN À LA REINE (Purée de Poulet à la Reine). For Twelve Persons. -Garnish the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, minced carrots and onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a little thyme and bay leaf; place on top one chicken, moisten with a pint of broth, and let it reduce slowly but entirely; moisten again with two quarts of broth, let the liquid come to a boil, then skim it off and continue boiling until the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Remove all the meat from the chicken without any skin or fat, and pound this with half a pound of very fresh bread-crumbs, season it with salt and nutmeg, then moisten with the stock, rub this through a tammy, and heat it up without boiling, adding to it an almond-milk prepared as follows: Pound one ounce of freshly peeled almonds, add gradually to it one pint of milk and press this forcibly through a napkin. Just when ready to serve, put into the soup three ounces of fine butter, stirring it continually until thoroughly melted. Serve the soup with a garnishing of small quenelles, bead-shaped, of three-sixteenths of an inch in size, made of quenelle and cream forcemeats (Nos. 75 , 89 ), half and half of each, and laid through a cornet on a buttered baking sheet, then poached in boiling water. (271). PURÉE OF ENGLISH SNIPE, PLOVER OR WOODCOCK À LA THÉO (Purée de Bécassines, Pluviers ou bécasses à la Théo). Remove the fillets from eight English snipe; with half of them make a quenelle forcemeat the same as explained for game forcemeat (No. 62) , let the quenelles be made either with a teaspoon or else pushed through a pocket on a buttered sheet, in shapes of oval olives, and then poach them in boiling salted water; these quenelles are to be used for the garnishing. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with two ounces of chopped onions; fry them colorless, add the remaining fillets and carcasses, and when all is well browned, moisten with three quarts of broth and a quart of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , let cook for thirty minutes, and despumate, which means to boil only on one side of the saucepan, and remove with a spoon all the fat and scum arising to the surface; then drain and remove most of the bones. Pound the carcasses and meats, dilute them with the broth, season and strain through a colander and afterward through a tammy; thicken when ready to serve with four ounces of butter divided into small pats, incorporating them in with a whip, until they are entirely melted; lay the quenelles in a soup tureen, and pour the very hot purée over. (272). PURÉE OF GROUSE À LA MANHATTAN (Purée de Tétras à la Manhattan). Roast three grouse for twenty minutes; cut off the fillets and break up the bones, putting them into a saucepan with four quarts of broth, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, half a pound of carrots, quarter of a pound of onions, and let simmer for one hour. Pound the fillets, add to it the same quantity of purée of sweet potatoes, and dilute all with the broth strained through a fine tammy, then return it to the fire in a saucepan to heat without boiling; season and stir into it just when ready to serve four ounces of fine butter. Make a garnishing with one pint of the soup; mix into a half a pint of cream, eight yolks and two whole eggs, and poach this in small buttered timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), and cut crosswise before being put into the purée. (273). PURÉE OF LENTILS, CHANTILLY (Purée de Lentilles, Chantilly). Unsalt a pig's head for twelve hours, partially cook it; put into a saucepan one and a half quarts of picked and washed lentils, add the half pig's head, and moisten with four quarts of cold water to cover all well, then add two carrots cut in four lengthwise, four onions, one with two cloves in it, half a pound of well pared raw ham, and boil slowly until all be thoroughly cooked, then take out the half head, bone it, remove all the fat, and put it under a weight to reduce it to three-eighths of an inch thick; drain the lentils, suppress the vegetables and ham, and pound the lentils, diluting them with their own broth. Strain all through a sieve, add two quarts of béchamel (No. 409) , and heat it up without boiling; skim and when ready to serve, incorporate into it a good piece of fine butter. Cut the gelatinous parts of the head into dice, and serve them with the soup as a garnishing, also some croûtons of bread fried in butter. (274). PURÉE OF LEVERET OR YOUNG RABBIT, ST. JAMES (Purée de Levraut ou Lapereau, St. James). Remove all the bones from the leverets or young rabbits, break up the carcasses, and fry them in butter with minced onions, carrots and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and celery, moisten with four quarts of broth, let the liquid boil up, then skim, and season with salt, pepper and cloves, continue to boil for one hour, then strain through a sieve. Cut up the meat in three quarter inch squares; fry these in butter with two ounces of lean ham, adding four tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix all well together, then moisten with the above stock, let boil and finish cooking. When the meats are well done, drain them off, and pound them in a mortar, diluting this purée with the stock, then press it through a sieve or tammy, the latter being preferable, for all purées are improved by being pressed through a tammy, as it removes any grains that may be in them. Heat the soup without boiling, season to taste, and incorporate into it a piece of good butter weighing a quarter of a pound, stirring it sharply with a spoon till thoroughly melted. Add a garnishing composed of small game and cream forcemeat (No. 75) timbales, the size and shape of half a pigeon's egg, poached in a slack oven and served in the soup. (275). PURÉE OF OATMEAL TOULOUSAINE (Purée d'Avenas Toulousaine). Put three pints of water into a saucepan; when it boils, drop into it like rain, six ounces of oatmeal coarsely ground, salt and one ounce of butter let cook for three hours, dilute it with three pints of white broth, and pass it through a tammy, return it to the fire stirring it continually, and at the first boil remove it to the side of the fire, and let boil and despumate for twenty-five minutes; skim all the fat, season with salt, nutmeg and sugar, and just when ready to serve, incorporate into it a piece of fine butter; pour the soup into a soup tureen with a garnishing of bread croûtons an inch in diameter sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven, also croûtons made of firm Royal cream (No. 241) , using whites of eggs instead of yolks, poached in a slack oven, and cut into squares. (276). PURÉE OF PARTRIDGES OR QUAILS À LA D'HÉNIN (Purée de Perdreaux ou de Cailles à la d'Hénin). Roast some partridges : suppress the skin and bones, and pound the meat with one ounce of butter and two gills of velouté (No. 415) for each partridge; press this through a sieve and put it into a bowl with one raw egg-yolk and a little nutmeg. Put on the fire to boil, two quarts of thickened game stock; add to it the fragments of birds and a garnished bouquet, some minced carrots and onions, salt and nutmeg; boil on one side of the saucepan only in order to despumate for one hour, then remove all the fat, strain, and return it to the saucepan; at the first boil add the prepared purée, season to taste, then pour the soup into a soup tureen, after straining it through a fine colander, adding a garnishing of hulled barley and some small game quenelles. (277). PURÉE OF PIGEONS OR WILD SQUABS À LA WALESKI (Purée de Pigeons ou de Pigeons Ramiers à la Waleski). Infuse in half a pint of boiling Madeira wine, some thyme, marjoram, basil, cloves, mace, and pepper corns . Roast four pigeons, remove all their meat, and break up the carcasses, putting them into a saucepan with two quarts of broth, adding a quarter of a pound of onions, quarter of a pound of carrots, and two ounces of celery, all finely minced: salt properly, and let boil for one hour, then strain through a napkin, and return it to a clean saucepan to boil and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of fecula diluted in a little cold water. Pound the meat from the birds with eight hard boiled egg-yolks and one ounce of butter, add some of the broth to this purée to dissolve it, then strain it through a tammy, heat it up without boiling, and add to it the Madeira wine infusion after straining it through a napkin; stir in when ready to serve, two ounces of good butter, then pour it into the soup tureen and serve as garnishing, small cream forcemeat (No. 75) timbales No. 5, cut in two crosswise. (278). PURÉE OF POTATOES À LA BENTON (Purée de Pommes de Terre à la Benton). Mince up three pounds of peeled potatoes ; put half a pound of butter into a saucepan, and when warm, add one pound of the white part of leeks minced, and fry them colorless; then add the potatoes , and moisten with six quarts of white broth, and continue to boil until the potatoes are done, and break easily under the pressure of the finger; drain and rub through a sieve with the broth, and some white broth added: season with salt and nutmeg, and put in one pint of velouté (No. 415) ; return this to the fire, and stir continually till boiling point is reached, then skim and just when ready to serve work into it four ounces of fine butter, stirring well the soup until all the butter is melted. Serve separately round croûtons three quarters of an inch, and an eighth of an inch thick, buttered and browned in the oven. (279). PURÉE OF PULLET OR GUINEA FOWL À LA WASHBURN (Purée de Poularde ou Pintade à la Washburn). Roast some small pullets or guinea fowls, remove all the meat, and suppress from this the fat and skin; break up the carcasses and put them into a saucepan with some minced carrots, leeks, a bunch of parsley and bayleaf. Cut half a pound of breast of pork; put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with the pork and fry together for a few minutes, then add the leeks, carrots and bunch of parsley, also the carcasses; moisten with six quarts of beef stock, season with salt, pepper-corns and two cloves, and boil up the liquid, skim off the fat and continue boiling for one hour, then strain through a sieve. Pound the meat taken from the pullets or guinea fowl with twelve hard boiled egg-yolks and two ounces of butter, diluting it with the stock, heat it up and have it boil for a few minutes, season, and stir in four ounces of butter, working it in the soup with a spoon until it is entirely melted, then pour it into the soup tureen and serve the following garnishing separate: Garnishing. -Sauté four ounces of chicken livers; pound and press them forcibly through a sieve, adding four egg-yolks and some cooked fine herbs. With this preparation make small half inch diameter balls, roll them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in clarified butter. (280). PURÉE OF RED BEANS À LA CONDÉ (Purée de Haricots rouges à la Condé). Soak for twelve hours in tepid water, one quart of red beans ; drain them, then put them into a saucepan with six quarts of water, one carrot cut in pieces, one onion and a bunch of ungarnished parsley, and let cook slowly for three hours, seasoning with salt, pepper and cloves. When the beans are sufficiently done, drain them and mash them in a mortar; dilute this purée with its own broth, giving it a proper consistency, then incorporate into it, when ready to serve, a quarter of a pound of good butter. Serve separately small croûtons of bread a quarter of an inch square, fried in butter. (281). PURÉE OF REEDBIRDS OR LARKS WITH CHESTNUTS (Purée d'Ortolans ou d'Alouettes aux Marrons). Procure three dozen larks, pick them, remove the pouches and gizzards, and take off the fillets, laying them aside. Fry the carcasses in a quarter of a pound of fine butter, with half a pound of smoked, lean, raw ham, cut in quarter inch squares, and moisten with three quarts of game consommé (No. 192) , and one quart of espagnole sauce (No. 414) . Boil slowly and despumate for one hour, then drain and pound the carcasses and ham with one quarter of a pound of blanched rice cooked in consommé, and one pound of chestnuts; moisten this with the broth and strain all through a sieve, and afterward through a tammy, add some Madeira wine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and when ready to serve, work into it a three ounce piece of fine butter, stirring it in vigorously till thoroughly melted. Sauté the fillets when ready, and serve them with the soup. (282). PURÉE OF PEAS WITH CROûTONS OR RICE (Purée de Pois aux Croûtons ou au Riz). Have one pound of dry peas ( green split peas ), wash them well changing the water until it is perfectly clear, then put them into a saucepan with three quarts of beef stock or water, one carrot cut lengthwise in four, two large onions with four cloves, salt and pepper. Boil and let cook slowly on the range or in a slack oven, then remove the carrots and cloves, and pass the peas through a fine sieve with the onions. Season properly and moisten as required, then let the soup boil up again, skim it and work in about four ounces of butter. Serve a garnishing of bread croûtons cut in quarter inch dice and fried in butter, or else some rice boiled in consommé. (283). PURÉE OF WILD DUCKS, [CANVASBACK, REDHEAD OR MALLARD] À LA VAN BUREN (Purée de Canards Sauvages [Canvasback Tête Rouge ou Mallart] à la Van Buren). Roast two ducks for eighteen or twenty minutes, remove the fillets, and break up the bones, putting them into a saucepan with a split knuckle of veal and a quarter of a pound of ham, also two cut up tomatoes, and one onion with four cloves in it. Moisten with four quarts of broth, cook for two hours and strain the broth; pound the fillets after removing all the skin, with the same quantity of cooked hominy, and two ounces of butter, dilute this with the broth, season with salt and nutmeg, and heat it up without boiling. Just when ready to serve incorporate into it, four ounces of good butter, and beat the broth up well with a spoon, until all the butter is melted; then pour it into a soup tureen with a garnishing of celery cut in dice, and blanched and cooked in some consommé, also quarter inch squares of brioche dried in the oven. (284). PURÉE OF WILD TURKEY À LA SARTIGES (Purée de Dinde Sauvage à la Sartiges). Twenty-four Persons. -Braise a wild turkey in a braising pan, garnishing the bottom of it with slices of fat pork, and slices of onions and carrots, and on top lay the turkey; moisten with a quart of broth, let fall to a glaze, then moisten again to its height with more broth, adding a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, bay leaf, one clove of garlic and a split knuckle of veal, also two celery stalks, and let cook slowly; when the turkey is done, remove it, and strain the broth through a fine sieve. As soon as the turkey is nearly cold, cut away all its skin, and detach the meat adhering to the bones, about four pounds in all; pound this with four ounces of freshly peeled almonds, and dilute with four quarts of broth and two quarts of velouté (No. 415) , strain it through a sieve, and then incorporate into it half a pound of fresh butter. A garnishing of green peas cooked in salted water and some pearl barley boiled three hours in white broth to be added to the soup tureen. (285) BARLEY SOUP WITH CELERY (Potage d'Orge au Céleri). Put half a pound of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when it begins to heat, dredge in ten ounces of small pearl barley, well freed of all dust and impurities; let cook for a few minutes, then moisten with three quarts of white broth, and stir continually until it comes to a boil; salt, and cook for two hours and a half, till the barley be thoroughly done; adding three-quarters of a pound of celery roots cut in quarter inch squares, and blanched in boiling salted water for ten minutes. After the celery is well cooked; and just when serving the soup, taste it to see whether the seasoning be correct, then add a thickening of egg-yolks, cream and fine butter (No. 175) . (286). BARSCH POLISH STYLE (Barsch à la Polonaise). Wash and peel ten red and sweet beet roots, cut them in slices of one eighth of an inch in thickness; put them into an earthen pot, or a wooden bucket; wet them plentifully with luke warm water, mix a handful of bread-crumbs (the addition of bread-crumbs is to hasten fermentation), cover with a linen and leave it thus stand for a few days. When the barsch is well acidulated, take off the crust of fermentation which lies at the surface; strain the liquid, put it into an earthen pan or into an enameled iron saucepan; garnish it with a piece of fresh pork, knuckles of veal, breast of beef, a chicken or a duck; put it on the fire, and as soon as it commences to boil, skim it, and garnish with a few celery roots, parsley, onions, leeks, salt and whole pepper, dry mushrooms (Gribouis). Cover and boil slowly as for a pot-au-feu; take out the meat when cooked. Cut the beet roots which have been used to make the sour juice, in the shape of Julienne, and an equal quantity of onions, leeks and carrots; fry them in butter and wet with the broth of the barsch. Then add finely shredded cabbage and the mushrooms, and let all cook slowly. When all is cooked cut the breast of beef in squares of three-quarters of an inch, put some Frankfort sausages in boiling water for ten minutes, take off the skin, cut them in squares of three-eighths of an inch add them to the soup, as well as some small round raviolles. These raviolles are made with chopped cooked meat, well seasoned, and to which has been added a little brown sauce. When ready to serve this soup, put a little broth into a saucepan, add to it some well colored and grated beet roots, and let boil, remove it then from the fire as soon as it boils, pass it through a linen into the soup; add to this soup some fennel or chopped parsley, salt and black pepper. This soup must be a little acid; should it not be acid enough, add a little vinegar. If this soup is to be served at fine dinners, you may add garnishing of marrow quenelles (No. 222) , of the size of an olive, some hard boiled eggs, cut lengthwise in two, and stuffed with the yolks which have been removed, crushed fine and seasoned with salt, pepper, grated horseradish and chopped parsley, and after being stuffed sprinkle them with melted butter, bestrew on them some bread-crumbs and put into an oven to color. This soup can be thickened with sour cream (the Russian smitane), to suit the taste. The barsch can also be served in cups at receptions and evening parties, in preparing it in the following manner: Take off the grease of the barsch and strain it, and then clarify it by adding to each gallon one pound of lean meat of beef chopped and mix with a bottle of good Bordeaux wine, and leave it at the corner of the stove, without letting it boil; strain it through a napkin and serve very hot in cups. (287). BENNETT SOUP (Soupe à la Bennett). This soup as made renowned by an article that appeared in the New York Herald, May, 1874. Put into a soup pot six gallons of water, take a piece of the shoulder of beef (the chuck ), weighing ten pounds; cut off all the fat and remove the bones; divide the meat into inch squares; set the bones and trimmings into a net, and place all into a pot with the water. Set the pot on the fire, and let boil; at the first boil remove all the scum arising to the surface, then add salt, a spoonful of whole peppers tied in a small bag with three cloves, one pound of carrots, and three-quarters of a pound of turnips, cut in half inch squares; half a pound of celery cut in quarter of an inch pieces, four ounces of onion, three-sixteenth inch squares, four pounds of cabbage, suppressing all the hard parts, and one pint of well washed barley. Cook for three hours, taste to see whether the seasoning be correct, stir in a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve hot. If this soup should be made with dry beans , they need to be soaked in cold water twelve hours previous, and added to the soup, after it has boiled one hour. With dried whole peas. -Soak them the previous evening, and add them to the soup, after it has boiled one hour. With lentils. -Add them after one hour. With rice. -Add it after two hours and a half. With split peas. -Add them after one hour. With potatoes . -Add them after two hours. Three hours cooking will be sufficiently long to boil this soup, no matter which garnishing is used. Put in the vegetables according to the time designated for their cooking, so that the soup be always ready after three hours boiling, and see that the vegetables are not too well done. Remove the net containing the bones and trimmings, take out the meat and the gelatinous parts adhering to the bones, cut them up into small pieces, and serve them with the soup. (288). BENOITON SOUP (Potage à la Benoiton). Have half a pound of carrots, a quarter of a pound of turnips, a quarter of a pound of celery, half a pound of leeks, half an ounce of parsnips, and a quarter of a pound of onions; blanch separately the carrots, turnips, celery, and parsnips cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, and mince the leeks and onions. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when the butter is warm, throw in the onions, afterward the leeks, letting them fry for two minutes, and then the remainder of the vegetables; fry all together without attaining a color, and moisten with four quarts of broth, adding bouquet of parsley garnished with thyme, garlic, and bay leaf, and boil all slowly for one hour; remove the bouquet, and add to the soup half a pound of peeled tomatoes cut in two, squeezed out, and divided into small half inch squares. Season and continue cooking for another half hour, then add a quart of purée of fresh peas, one ounce of rice, blanched and cooked in consommé, string beans cut lozenge-shaped, some asparagus tops and a pluche of chervil. (289). BOUILLABAISSE (Bouillabaisse). Prepare one-half pound of red snapper, one-half pound of lobster, one-half pound of perch, one-half pound of sea bass, one-half pound of blackfish, one-half pound of sheepshead, one-half pound of cod, one-half pound of mackerel. Cut all of these fish into two and a quarter inch squares. Mince a fine Julienne of a quarter of a pound of carrots, two ounces of chopped onions, and two ounces of leeks; have also two cloves of garlic. Heat in a saucepan, one gill of sweet oil, add to it the vegetables and garlic, fry them without allowing to color, then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix all together, and put in the fish; moisten to its height with half white wine and half water, adding two medium sized peeled tomatoes, cut in two, pressed out, and chopped up coarsely; let boil for fifteen minutes on a quick fire to reduce the moistening, then add one clove of crushed and chopped garlic, some saffron, salt, pepper, the pulp of a lemon pared to the quick, and chopped parsley; remove the two whole cloves of garlic. Serve the broth or stock in a soup tureen, the fish separately as well as thin slices of toasted bread; should the moistening not be sufficient for the soup, then add some fish broth to it. Another Way. -Have one pound of codfish, one of sea bass, and one of chicken halibut; cut these in two and a quarter inch diameter pieces. Put into a saucepan three pounds of fish bones and parings with some carrots and onions finely minced, white wine, parsley, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and sufficient water to cover the fish entirely, then boil for twenty minutes and strain. Mince up a quarter of a pound of leeks, a quarter of a pound of onions, add three whole cloves of garlic, and fry these in a gill of oil without letting the mattain a color; then put in the fish, and two pounds of live lobster cut in half inch slices from the tail. Moisten with a fish stock and white wine, a pinch of saffron, and lemon juice. Boil on a brisk fire for fifteen minutes, then remove the garlic; put some pieces of toasted bread into the soup tureen, pour the broth over, and serve the fish in a separate tureen. (290). BRAGANCE SOUP (Potage à la Bragance). Blanch half a pound of rice, drain, and put it into two quarts and half of boiling white broth, then set the saucepan on the side of the range. Roast a chicken, cut it up, break the carcass, and put the pieces into the soup, with the severed thighs, a few slices of raw celery root and some mushroom parings; cook the soup for one hour; skim off the fat, strain it without pressing, then return it to the saucepan to let boil on the side of the fire, and season with salt. Pound the white chicken meat with the addition of a piece of butter, press it through a tammy, and add to this preparation: one whole egg, eight yolks, two tablespoonfuls of velouté (No. 415) , and as much raw cream, season and poach these in timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), buttered; at the last minute, pour the soup into the tureen, adding to it a few spoonfuls of green peas, and serving the timbales cut crosswise in a separate vegetable dish. (291). BRUNOISE SOUP WITH QUENELLES (Potage à la Brunoise aux Quenelles). Brunoise is made with half a pound of the red part of carrots, a quarter of a pound of turnips, quarter of a pound of celery, quarter of a pound of leeks, quarter of a pound of onions, and a quarter of a pound of cabbage. Trim or cut the vegetables into quarter inch squares, the leeks to be prepared Julienne shape; mince the onions and blanch each of the vegetables in separate waters, except the onions and leeks. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when it is very hot, throw in the onions, and the leeks a few moments later; cook a little longer, then add all the vegetables, and fry colorless. Dilute with one pint of broth, adding a good pinch of sugar, and reduce slowly till the moistening is entirely evaporated, and the vegetables adhere to the bottom of the saucepan; moisten again with four quarts of broth, then boil, skim and continue the cooking for one hour and a half more. Season with salt and pepper, pour the very hot soup into a tureen over a garnishing of small chicken quenelles three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter laid with a cornet on to a buttered sheet and poached in boiling salted water, and then well drained. (292). CABBAGE SOUP (Potage aux Choux). Remove the outer leaves from a medium three pound cabbage, and divide it into four parts; wash well in plenty of water, then blanch in boiling water for ten minutes, with the addition of half a pound of salt pork, cut lengthwise in two; drain the cabbage and pork, refresh them thoroughly in cold water for half an hour, then drain and squeeze out all the water from the cabbage. Put the cabbage into a saucepan, season with a little salt and pepper and lay on top one pound of brisket of beef, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, two medium carrots cut in four, two large onions with two cloves in them, and the lard that was blanched with the cabbage. Moisten with three quarts of boiling water, skim, close the lid hermetically and boil slowly for three hours. Drain and cut the cabbage into small pieces, set them into a soup tureen, with some sliced bread dried in the oven, pour the soup over and serve. (293). CALF'S FEET SOUP, ENGLISH STYLE (Potage Pieds de veau à l'Anglaise). Cut in two lengthwise, and remove the bones from four calf 's feet; blanch them, then braise them so that they are entirely cooked, taking about four or five hours. Strain the feet, and set them under a weight to reduce them to a quarter of an inch in thickness, and, when thoroughly cold, cut them up into inch squares. Prepare a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, half a pound of celery cut quarter inch squares, quarter of a pound of onions in three-sixteenth inch squares. Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when hot, add the onions and let fry for a few minutes, then the carrots, turnips and celery; fry all colorless, and moisten with the broth from the calf 's feet, increasing its quantity with broth so as to obtain four quarts. Boil, remove the fat, season with salt and pepper and thicken the soup with two heaping tablespoonfuls of fecula diluted in a quarter of a bottle of white wine, one gill of Madeira and a pint of tomato purée; then boil again, and despumate the broth. Blanch and cook for three hours in white broth, two ounces of pearl barley, add it to the soup, also the prepared calf 's feet. Lay on a buttered pan through a cornet some chicken quenelles three-eighths of an inch in diameter, colored with spinach green, pour boiling salted water over, and when poached, drain and add to the soup; when the whole is very hot, pour it into a soup tureen and serve. (294). CALF'S TAIL À LA RUNDELL (Queue de Veau à la Rundell). Parboil twelve calves ' tails, cut them into pieces about one inch long, and fry them in butter with a quarter of a pound of onions, and adding one pound of carrots cut in quarter inch squares, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Moisten with four quarts of broth, and allow the liquid to boil and to continue boiling slowly till the tails and vegetables are thoroughly cooked, then remove the bunch of parsley. Cut two medium cabbages in four, plunge them into boiling, salted water, let boil for ten minutes, then drain and cut out the cores and other hard parts; divide each quarter into eight pieces, put them in a saucepan, pour the broth the tails were cooked in over it, let the cabbages boil up once, then finish the cooking in a slack oven for two hours. When ready to serve, lay the cabbages in a soup tureen, add the tails and vegetables, and pour some consommé over; season to taste and serve the soup with thin slices of buttered bread, browned in the oven. (295). CHAMBERLAIN SOUP (Potage à la Chamberlain.). Keep boiling on the side of the range, two quarts of thickened soup (No. 195) ; boil and skim it well. Have four ounces of minced onions, Bermuda ones in preference, blanch them in plenty of water, then drain and fry them in butter; moisten them with one quart of broth, adding a pinch of sugar. When done, press them forcibly through a fine sieve, and mix this purée to the thick stock; boil, then skim, and when ready to serve, thicken the soup with a thickening of four egg-yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of fine butter. Serve separately a garnishing of small cream chicken forcemeat timbales molded in timbale molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), poached and cut in two crosswise, putting them into a vegetable dish with a little consommé added, and serve. (296). CHAMPêTRE SOUP (Potage Champêtre). Despumate for twenty-five minutes on the side of the range, two quarts of thick white soup stock (No. 195) , with a handful of mushroom parings added. Take some long French rolls called "flutes," each one being one inch and a half in diameter; scrape off the superficial upper crust, and cut them transversely into a quarter of an inch thick slices; brown these on one side with clarified butter, then drain them off, leaving the butter in the pan. Cover the toasted sides of these slices with a paste made of fresh Swiss, Chestershire, and Parmesan cheese s, pounded and moistened with a little beer and Marsala wine, finishing with a pinch of cayenne pepper; dust this paste over with grated parmesan, return the bread to the pan, and put it into a hot oven to glaze the cheese, then range them on plates. Skim all the fat from the soup, strain and put it back into the saucepan, add half a gill of soubise purée (No. 723) , mingled with four egg-yolks, butter and grated nutmeg; pour it into a soup tureen and serve at the same time as the cheese crusts. (297). CHARTREUSE SOUP (Potage à la Chartreuse). Boil up two quarts of clarified veal broth; put into it four or five spoonfuls of French tapioca, and let cook together for twenty-five or thirty minutes; strain, and return it to the saucepan on the side of the range. Prepare with some thinly rolled out raviole paste (No. 147) , four or five dozen small ravioles, filling them with three different preparations: one-third of them with a good purée of spinach, one-third with a purée or cooked foies-gras combined with a little melted beef extract, and the other third with finely chopped up fresh oronge-agaric, thickened with a little reduced sauce, or should there be no oronge-agaric then use cèpes or peeled mushrooms. Plunge into boiling water four or five not over ripe tomatoes; drain them as soon as the skin peels off, and press them through a tammy, and if the purée be too thin, then let it drain on a fine sieve, reserving the liquid, and putting it into a saucepan with some good veal stock and reduce it to a half glaze. Cook the ravioles slowly in salted water for twelve to fifteen minutes with the cover on then drain, and lay them in the soup tureen. Remove the soup from off the fire, mix it in with the purée of raw tomatoes, season, and pour it over the ravioles. (298). CHICKEN AND LEEK SOUP (Potage à la Volaille et aux Poireaux). Put into a saucepan one chicken, weighing three pounds. Let it be very fresh, drawn and singed; add a small split knuckle of veal, moisten with four quarts of good broth, and boil up the liquid; skim and let simmer uninterruptedly for three hours. After the chicken is three-quarters done, remove it and lift off the skin; mince up the flesh, and put this into a saucepan, with the white part of twelve leeks, cut in two inch lengths, then lengthwise in four, and blanched in boiling salted water; drain them and put them on to cook with the minced chicken. After all is well done, pour it into the soup tureen; season the broth properly, and strain it through a fine, damp napkin; add this to the tureen and serve. Have a separate garnishing of small timbales, made with eight egg-yolks, one pint of cream, salt, sugar, and nutmeg, strained through a sieve; fill some buttered timbale molds (No. 4, Fig. 137), with this preparation, poach them (No. 152) , then unmold, cut them in two crosswise, and lay them in a vegetable dish with a little broth added. Serve the garnishing separately at the same time as the soup. (299). CHICKEN OKRA SOUP (Gombo de Volaille). Prepare two pounds of the breast of chicken cut into half inch squares, half a pound of salted raw ham cut in quarter inch squares, half a pound of onions cut in eighth inch squares and two pounds or eight fine tomatoes plunged into boiling water to remove their skins; then cut in four, and slightly pressed to extract the seeds; four ounces of rice, picked, washed and cooked in salted water with half an ounce of butter, one pound of okras cut crosswise in pieces a quarter or three-eighths of an inch, according to their size, four ounces of finely cut up green peppers, four quarts of broth and four ounces of butter. Put the butter into the saucepan on the fire, and when it is very hot, throw in the onions to fry colorless, add the ham and let all fry together; then add the chicken meat; fry again slowly while stirring, till the butter is entirely clarified; then moisten with chicken broth made from the bones of the chicken, and four pounds of leg of veal, adding some beef stock. Remove all the fat from the soup, and boil for twenty minutes; put in the okras and green peppers, then continue cooking until the gumbo or okras are entirely done; add the tomatoes, boil a few minutes longer and season with salt, Worcestershire sauce and mushroom catsup. Place the rice into a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. (300). CLAM CHOWDER (Chowder de Lucines). Prepare a quarter of a pound of well chopped fat pork, a small bunch of parsley chopped not too fine, four ounces of chopped onions, one and a half quarts of potatoes cut in seven-sixteenth of an inch squares; two quarts of clams retaining all the juice possible; one quart of tomatoes peeled, pressed and cut in half inch squares. Put the fat pork into a saucepan, and when fried, add the onions to fry for one minute, then the potatoes , the clams and the tomatoes : should there not be sufficient moistening, pour in a little water and boil the whole until the potatoes are well done. Add five pilot crackers broken up into very small bits; one soup spoonful of thyme leaves, two ounces of butter, a very little pepper and salt to taste. This quantity will make four gallons, sufficient for sixty persons. Another way. -Chop up a quarter of a pound of fat pork, melt it down, adding four ounces of onions cut in quarter inch dice, and fry them with the pork, without coloring, then add one and a half pounds of potatoes cut in half inch squares, a pound of peeled and halved tomatoes, pressed out and cut in five-eighth inch squares, one ounce of coarsely chopped parsley, seventy-five medium sized clams, removing the hard parts and chopping them up very fine, the clam juice, a little salt if found necessary, pepper and thyme leaves. Boil the whole till the potatoes are cooked (the green part of celery chopped fine) and should the clam juice not be sufficient, then add a little water. (301). CHOWDER OF FRESH AND SALT WATER FISH À LA STEBENS (Chowder de Poisson d'Eau Douce et d'Eau de Mer à la Stebens). Fresh Water Fish. -Prepare a pound and a half of fresh water fish, such as eels, pike perch or wall-eyed perch (sandre), and cut in one and a half inch squares; also one pound of potatoes cut in half inch dice, three-quarters of a pound of minced onions, half a pound of chopped fat pork, and three green peppers chopped fine. Melt the pork, add to it the onions fry without coloring, then the add squares of potatoes and the fish, moisten to the height of the fish with water, season with salt and black pepper and let boil until the potatoes are cooked. This chowder must be thick and appear more like a stew, still, some broth can be added to it, to thin it out according to taste. Salt Water Fish. -Prepare two pounds of sea bass, sheepshead, blackfish and kingfish, cut them in one and a half to two inch squares, have also three-quarters of a pound of minced potatoes , three ounces of salt pork, and three ounces of onions. Put the salt pork into a saucepan with one ounce of butter, fry lightly with the onions, then add the potatoes and the fish, also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and summer savory; season with salt, black and red pepper, and moisten to the height of the fish with some water. Cook on a quick fire for twenty minutes, or until the potatoes are done, then remove the parsley, add two broken and soaked pilot crackers and serve. (302). COLD SOUP, RUSSIAN STYLE (Potage Froid à la Russe). Cut into quarter inch squares, one salted cucumber and two fresh ones, free of their peel and seeds, (one pound in all), put these into a soup tureen on the ice; add the meat from sixty crawfish, or one pound of the meat from a lobster 's claws, cut in quarter inch squares of the same dimension as the cucumbers; and half a pound of braized sturgeon or salmon cut in quarter inch squares; put all these on ice until ready to serve. Have one quart of sour cream, strain it through a tammy, also two quarts of kwass, and stir into it a few pieces of very clean ice, also the cucumbers and lobster laid aside; season with salt and a pinch of powdered sugar, and serve separately on a plate some hard boiled eggs, cut in four and sprinkled over with chervil and fennel. Kwass. -In order to make twelve bottles of kwass, procure two pounds of rye, two pounds of wheat, and one pound of hulled barley; pour tepid water over all, and when these grains are swollen, add four pounds of rye flour, and mix well together with tepid water, so as to form a paste neither too thin nor too thick. Put this into a large earthen pot, into a hot oven, and let it brown. After this has cooked five hours, pour it into a pail or barrel and mix in with it twelve bottlefuls of cold water; let rest for twenty-four hours, then decant the liquid and clarify it with a quarter of a pound of yeast mixed with a third of a bottleful of Madeira wine; rest again for five hours, and remove the clear part, and with this liquid fill up the bottles, setting one dry Malaga raisin into each one, then cork, tie, and keep the bottles in a cool place. (303). CRAB AND SHRIMP SOUP À LA LOUBAT (Potage aux Crabes et aux Crevettes à la Loubat). Wash well twenty-four hard crabs; boil them, and remove all the shells as well as the lungs; cleanse them in water changing it frequently, then remove all the meat contained therein, and pound it while diluting with three pints of thickened fish soup stock (No. 195) . Allow to despumate for half an hour, then skim off the fat and strain it through a sieve, returning it to a clean saucepan; place this on the fire, and stir continually, and at the first boil, skim it carefully; adding some red pepper; thicken the soup with six egg-yolks, half a pint of cream and three ounces of butter; make a garnishing of quenelles as follows: Have a pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) , pushed through a cornet to form three-sixteenths of an inch beads, on a buttered tin sheet, and poach them in boiling, salted water; have also three-eighths inch ball of potatoes cooked in a very little white broth, and some shrimp tails cut into two or three pieces. (304). CRAWFISH SOUP À LA RENOMMÉE (Potage d'Écrevisses à la Renommée). Boil a few dozen crawfish in a court bouillon with white wine; drain them, and detach the tails from the bodies, suppressing the tail shells. Keep boiling on the side of the fire, one and a half quarts of thickened white soup stock; put into it the crawfish shells after pounding them, and let the soup despumate for thirty-five minutes, remove all the fat, strain and return it to the saucepan; boil it up again, and stir in cayenne pepper to taste. Take all the meat from the tails and claws of the crawfish, chop up the claws with the parings of the tails and claws, mixing in a little bread panada, red butter, a few raw egg-yolks and red pepper; prepare a small forcemeat with this, and shape it into tiny quenelles, rolling them on a flour ed table; poach them, then drain and put them in the soup tureen with the crawfish tails cut in two lengthwise. Skim the fat from the soup, thicken it with four egg-yolks and two spoonfuls of purée of white asparagus tops, and also a little raw cream; let the thickening cook without boiling, and finish the soup with a piece of good butter working it vigorously with a whip. (305). CROûTE AU POT (Croûte au Pot). Put into an earthen pot (a pipkin) twelve quarts of stock, adding a piece of the rump of beef, which must weigh eight pounds when trimmed and free from part of its fat, and a fowl weighing four pounds, drawn, singed and well washed; then add one pound of carrots, half a pound of onions with four cloves in them, two ounces of celery, and twenty-four whole peppers. Let boil up, salt it, and continue boiling very slowly for three hours and a half to four hours. Remove the vegetables as soon as each one is done, pare the carrots cork shaped one inch in diameter, and cut them into three-sixteenth inch thick pieces; the turnips shaped like a clove of garlic. Cut lengthwise in two some small French rolls, make them into pieces two inches long, scoop out the crumbs, and on this side besprinkle them with some good chicken fat, brown them in a hot oven. Lay them on a dish, the rounded side uppermost, and one beside the other; sprinkle them over again with chicken fat, and brown them in the oven. Cut a cabbage into four parts, wash these in plenty of water, and blanch in salted water for ten minutes, then drain, and refresh for half an hour; press well, and put it in a saucepan with a carrot cut in four, and one onion with cloves in it; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with stock and half a pint of chicken fat; the cabbage must be covered two inches above its height, then cook for two hours. When the cabbage is done, drain, and serve it in a vegetable dish with the rolls around, and lay the carrots and turnips on top; send the soup to the table in a separate soup tureen. (306). DOSMONT SOUP (Potage à la Dosmont). Mince up four ounces of carrot, two ounces of onions, and one ounce of celery, fry these in four ounces of butter, adding four pounds of fresh tomatoes cut in two and pressed. Moisten with two quarts of broth, and let cook for half an hour, then press the whole through a fine sieve; put this into a saucepan, adding one quart of thick soup stock (No. 195) , boil, skim, and when ready to serve, taste the soup to see whether it be seasoned properly, if it should be too thick add some bouillon to it, and then pour it into a soup tureen with a garnishing of rice blanched and cooked in white consommé, also some small chicken forcemeat quenelles (No. 89) colored with spinach green. (307). FERMIèRE STYLE SOUP (Potage à la Fermière). Have four medium sized onions, four ounces of leeks, half a cabbage, suppressing the core, three-quarters of a pound of potatoes , four ounces of turnips, half a pound of carrots and four ounces of celery, all minced up very fine, also some minced lettuce. Put one pound of scraped fat pork into a saucepan on the fire, and when hot, add the minced onions and leeks; fry for two minutes, and throw in the other vegetables and cook them without letting them get brown. Sprinkle over four spoonfuls of flour, let cook and a few minutes after, dilute with four quarts of stock; stir the whole until it boils, then add a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, four ounces of string beans cut lozenge shape, and two ounces of raw ham cut in one-eighth inch squares; boil again for three-quarters of an hour, and then add a handful of chopped up sorrel, and a little minced chervil; season with salt and pepper, remove the parsley, season to taste, and pour the soup into a soup tureen over slices of toasted bread or else slices of buttered bread browned in the oven. (308). FISH SOUP À LA PONSARDIN (Potage de Poisson à la Ponsardin). Cut one pound of fillet of bass into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and one inch and a quarter in diameter; fry these in some butter, and set them under a weight; when cold pare them. Take the tails from one pound of shrimps, peel them, and keep the meat aside. Put into a saucepan, one very fresh bass head, also the parings cut from the fillets and the shrimps, add half a pound of stalks or parings of mushrooms, a quarter of a bottleful of white wine, and three quarts of water, also a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, carrots and minced onions; boil for thirty minutes, then strain. Make a blond roux with quarter of a pound of butter, and quarter of a pound of flour; moisten it with the fish broth, boil, despumate, and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and lobster butter, with Kari; serve as a garnishing the shrimp tails and the small prepared fillets of bass. (309). FROG SOUP AND FROG SOUP WITH TIMBALES (Potage aux Grenouilles et aux Timbales de Grenouilles). Mince well a quarter of a pound of the white part of leeks, wet them with two quarts of fish broth, let boil slowly for half an hour, then press them forcibly through a sieve, returning this to the saucepan. Have one pound and a half of frogs, suppress half a pound from the thighs (the thick part of the thigh ); put the balance in with the broth, and four ounces of fresh bread-crumbs; boil for ten minutes, then drain and pound all well. Dilute with the broth, strain it through a sieve, heat it up without boiling, and thicken with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportions being four yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of butter. Cook separate in some broth, the half pound of frogs kept aside; remove all the bones, and put them into the soup with a pluche of chervil (No. 448) . Frog Timbales. -Use the same soup, but instead of the garnishing of boned frog thighs, substitute small timbales the shape of half a pigeon egg; butter and fill them with frog forcemeat (No. 222) , and cream; then poach them (No. 152) in a slack oven. Unmold, and serve separately in a vegetable dish with a little consommé; put a timbale into each plate when serving the soup. (310). GARBURE WITH LETTUCE (Garbure aux Laitues). First wash sixteen small lettuce heads several times, changing the water each time; blanch them for ten minutes, then refresh and press out all the liquid from them; lay them on a cloth, season them with a little salt and pepper, and place on each a chicken forcemeat ball of an inch and a quarter in diameter, mixing in with it a little chopped chervil. Wrap up the forcemeat in the lettuce, fold them over, giving them a long appearance; then tie three times round with a fine string ( lettuce for soup must not be wrapped in lard ), and put them in a stewpan lined with carrots, onions, and a garnished bouquet. Cover with some veal stock, protect with a sheet of buttered paper, boil, and let the lettuce simmer for two hours, then drain, untie, and trim them slightly; put them into a vegetable dish, moistening them with consommé, and keep them in a warm place until needed. Trim off some small rye rolls, the same as for croûte-au-pot (No. 305) ; range them in a deep dish, baste them over with chicken fat, and brown them in the oven; drain off the fat, and when colored, moisten them with good broth, season with a little mignonette, and send to the table at the same time a soup tureen of consommé. Serve grated parmesan cheese separately. Put into each plate one of the crusts, also one lettuce and cover with consommé. (311). GIBLET SOUP À LA REGLAIN (Abatis à la Reglain). Prepare the giblets taken from three ducks or two geese, the necks, pinions and gizzards; remove the skin from the necks, cutting them off near the head, pluck the pinions and singe them; make a cut on the side of the gizzards to remove the inside without breaking the pouch, suppress the interior white skin, also the outside tough part, retaining only the soft meat, cut this into quarter inch squares, then divide the neck and pinions into small pieces; as well as the unblanched hearts. Fry slowly in four ounces of butter, the white part of six leeks cut into inch long pieces, then blanch, add the giblets and fry all together for fifteen minutes, then dilute with half a gill of Madeira wine, and one gill of broth, and let fall slowly to a glaze. Moisten again with three quarts of broth and boil, then simmer slowly until thoroughly cooked; strain the liquid through a sieve, and thicken it by working into it two heaping spoonfuls of arrowroot or potato fecula, diluted in a little cold water. Add to the soup, the livers braized and cooled off, cut into quarter of inch squares, and some blanched chervil leaves; season with salt and cayenne pepper and serve with a garnishing of carrots, turnips and celery cut in squares of a quarter of an inch, blanched and cooked separately in white broth. (312). GNOCQUIS SOUP À LA PAGIOLI (Potage aux Gnocquis à la Pagioli). To Make the Gnocquis. -Put a pint of milk into a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter, salt, nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne pepper. At the first boil remove the saucepan and add to its contents sufficient flour to make a thin paste; dry this paste on a slow fire, stirring constantly until it no longer adheres to the pan, then remove it from the fire to allow the paste to cool off a little, and then incorporate into it seven or eight eggs. Pour this paste into a linen bag furnished with a socket having an opening of an eighth of an inch, boil some water in a saucepan, add to it a little salt, and force the paste through the socket in the form of strings into it in order to poach it, and when firm, drain them and range them in a vegetable dish, alternating layers of gnocquis with grated parmesan cheese, then brown the whole in the oven. Serve with a separate tureen full of consommé. (313). GUMBO OR OKRA WITH HARD CRABS, CREOLE STYLE (Gombo aux Crabes durs à la Créole). Chop up a quarter of a pound of fat pork, put it into a saucepan on the fire, adding half a pound of onions cut in dice, and a pound of lean beef in squares; fry all together, then add six peeled tomatoes cut in two, two pounds of minced young okras, twelve small cooked crabs, suppressing the shells and lungs, wash them thoroughly and split them in four, one clove of garlic, three green peppers minced up fine, six quarts of broth, salt, pepper and a little curry; boil all up till well cooked, then thicken with six tablespoonfuls of arrowroot dissolved in cold water. Serve separately some rice cooked in twice its quantity of water, with salt, fill some buttered molds (No. 5, Fig. 137), with this, set it in a slow oven, unmold and serve at the same time as the soup. (314). GUMBO OR OKRA WITH SOFT SHELL CRABS (Gombo aux Crabes Moux). Set into a saucepan four ounces of butter to heat, add to it two ounces of shallots, four ounces of lean raw ham, and fry without letting attain a color; pour in four quarts of thickened fish stock, a quarter of a pound of finely cut up green peppers and let the whole simmer for twenty minutes, then add sixteen soft shell crabs cut in two or four, according to their size, and well cleansed; boil again for fifteen minutes and drain off the crabs; pare them nicely and return them to the saucepan with the liquid, and thicken this with eight spoonfuls of ground gumbo or okra, and some good butter. Prepare a separate garnishing of rice cooked with twice its quantity of water, salt and lard, boiling all together for ten minutes; fill a buttered one quart charlotte mold with this, and set it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes; unmold, and serve the same time as the soup. (315). HUNTERS' STYLE SOUP (Potage à la Chasseur). Roast three partridges and one young wild rabbit, all barded with slices of fat pork; when done, remove the fillets from the partridges as well as from the rabbit, doing this very carefully. Put the rest, meat and bones, into a saucepan or stock pot, with a fowl split into pieces, and two pounds of small, half inch squares of beef. Moisten with four quarts of beef stock (No. 194a) , let it boil, then skim and add some carrots, turnips, onions and two cloves; cook slowly for two hours, salt properly, then cut into squares the fillets taken from the partridges and rabbit. Have some small, round rolls, an inch and a quarter in diameter; after completely emptying them with a knife, fill the insides with a delicate young rabbit godiveau (No. 84) , mixing in with it some chopped up mushrooms and truffles. Lay the rolls on a buttered pan, one beside the other, besprinkle them over with butter or broth, and dredge some grated parmesan cheese on top; set them in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, then lay them in a vegetable dish; strain the rest of the broth through a napkin, clarify it and boil it up again, thickening with a spoonful of tapioca for each quart and adding half a gill of Madeira wine. (316). JAPANESE OR NIZAM PEARLS. TAPIOCA, MANIOC, SAGO OR SALEP, SEMOLINO, CASSAVA, GLUTEN (Perles de Japon ou de Nizam, Tapioca Manioc, Sagou Salep, Semoule, Cassave et Gluten). It takes from twenty to forty minutes to cook these farina ceous foods. Let drop like rain into the boiling consommé, the proportion of one spoonful for each pint of liquid; boil slowly, and skim the surface carefully. The length of time to cook Japanese or nizam pearls, is to boil them for ten minutes, and finish cooking in a bain-marie, for thirty minutes longer. For sago and salep, boil for ten minutes, and finish cooking in a bain-marie for twenty minutes longer. French tapioca needs boiling five to ten minutes. Manioc tapioca which is generally used in this country requires longer cooking; it will take twenty minutes; it may be kept in a bain-marie for ten minutes longer. Gluten takes twenty minutes to cook. Semolino and farina, ten minutes. Cassava, twenty-five minutes. (317). JERôME SOUP WITH SWEET POTATO QUENELLES (Potage à la Jerôme aux Quenelles de Patates). Pour some game broth (No. 195) , into a soup tureen; serve separately sweet potato quenelles as a garnishing, also some blanched tarragon leaves. Have croûtons of bread one and a quarter inches in diameter, covered with butter and browned in the oven; serve them at the same time as the soup and garnishings. Sweet Potato Quenelles. -Bake some sweet potatoes in the oven, remove their insides when they are done so as to obtain a half pound of potato; and add while mashing them one ounce of butter, one ounce of grated parmesan, one whole egg, one yolk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, also one tablespoonful of potato fecula. Make some flattened oval shaped quenelles, poach and serve when done with the soup. To Cut the Vegetables. -Cutting vegetables Julienne, is the (318). JULIENNE SOUP FAUBONNE AND MOGUL (Potage à la Julienne Faubonne et Mogol). act of dividing them into slices either long or short, thick or thin. There is fine, medium and large Julienne. In order to accomplish this, cut first the roots or meats into thin slices, then divide them into bands of an equal width, so as to cut them transversely into fillets as wide as they are thick, or in other words square; the fine Julienne is five-eighths of an inch long by little over one-sixteenth of an inch square; the medium is seven eighths of an inch long by one-eighth of an inch square, and the large Julienne is cut one and three-quarters to two inches long by three-sixteenth of an inch square. The vegetables cut in Julienne are usually intended for soups, while chicken, game, foies-gras, truffles, tongue and mushrooms are used for garnishings. For Julienne. -Put into a saucepan containing six quarts, four ounces of butter, add a vegetable Julienne cut one and three-quarter inches by three-sixteenths of an inch square, six ounces of the red part of carrots, four ounces of turnips, two ounces of leeks, two ounces of celery root and two ounces of minced onion. Blanch the carrots, turnips and celery separately, should they be hard; place the saucepan on a slow fire to simmer the roots without browning them, then moisten with two gills of broth, let fall slowly to a glaze and begin again, until the vegetables are nearly cooked, being careful to stir them occasionally. Moisten with three quarts more of boiling broth, let boil, skim, remove the fat, and add four ounces of cabbage leaves, suppressing the hard part and cutting them up fine and blanching them, boil all together till the vegetables are cooked, then add a chiffonnade composed of a handful of sorrel, the leaves of a lettuce head and a little chervil, all well cleaned, washed, pressed and cut up fine. Boil again for fifteen minutes, then skim and season with salt and sugar. Serve the Julienne with green peas cooked in salted water; slices of bread croûtons may also be served separately, with the Julienne or else poached eggs or quenelles. For Julienne Faubonne. -Have two quarts of Julienne and one quart of purée of peas mixed. For Julienne Mogul. -One quart of Julienne, one quart of purée of peas and one quart of purée of tomatoes. (319). KNUCKLE OF VEAL À LA BRIAND (Jarrets de Veau, à la Briand). Put into a stockpot eight quarts of broth with eight pounds of knuckle of veal; boil the liquid, skim, and then add to it six leeks, two celery roots, a bunch of parsley, and a freshly roasted young pullet weighing three pounds, continue to boil till the meat is all cooked. After the knuckles are done, bone them and set the meat under a weight to flatten it down to one quarter of an inch in thickness, and when cold cut it up into quarter of an inch squares. Take the chicken out of the soup as soon as it is cooked, and set it away to cook, then cut off all the meat, omitting the skin and bones, and cut this meat into quarter of inch squares. Skim the fat from the stock, strain it through a sieve, and return it to the saucepan, having previously washed it, add the squares of chicken and veal to this, and let the whole simmer for half an hour, with the addition of four ounces of rice, blanched and cooked in consommé, half a pound of lean, cooked ham, cut into quarter of inch squares, and eight tomatoes, plunged into boiling water; peel off the skin then cut into four, and squeezed lightly so as to remove the seeds; boil again for twenty minutes, skim and season the soup to taste and serve very hot. Braised lettuce as explained for Garbure soup (No. 310) to be served in a separate vegetable dish. (320). LAMB OR VEAL SWEETBREAD SOUP, GERMAN STYLE (Potage de ris d'Agneau ou de Veau, à l'Allemande). Blanch some lamb or veal sweetbreads, by placing them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them; let the liquid boil, then remove from the hot fire, until they are firm to the touch; set them under a weight to reduce them to one half of an inch thick, when cold cut them up in squares, two pounds in all. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when very hot, lay in the sweetbreads and fry them slowly without coloring, moisten with three pints of broth, and three pints of velouté (No. 415) , let come to a boil while stirring continually, and then cook slowly until the sweetbreads are thoroughly done; thicken the soup just when about serving, with two egg-yolks, one gill of cream, and two ounces of fine butter; these proportions being for one quart of soup. For garnishing fry in butter all the fragments, drain off the butter, set them aside to cool, and chop them up very fine, with as much cooked mushrooms, and mix with this half its quantity of veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 98) and chopped parsley; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then divide this preparation into equal parts, so as to make small balls five-eighths of an inch in diameter, lay them on a tin sheet, and poach them in a slow oven. Have some noodles (No. 142) cooked in salted water; pour the soup into a soup-tureen, and add to it the quenelles, the sweetbreads, the noodles and some finely chopped parsley. (321). LOBSTER AND CRAWFISH SOUP, DUKE ALEXIS (Potage de Homard et d'Écrevisses, au Duc Alexis). Mince finely some carrots, onions and celery; fry them in butter, and moisten with one quart of white wine and two quarts of broth, adding four peeled tomatoes cut in two and pressed. Put into this stock, eighteen crawfish, let them boil for five minutes, then lift them out, and put in four pounds of live lobsters, selecting the smallest ones procurable, and cook them for half an hour, then drain them, and pick out all their meats, keeping aside only the meat from the claws, and pounding the rest; dilute this with the above stock, adding one quart of thickened fish soup stock (No. 195) ; strain through a sieve and heat up to boiling point, but do not allow it to boil; thicken it with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportion being two raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of fine butter for each quart of soup. Detach the tails from the bodies of the crawfish; suppress the belly side so as to keep only the thin shells of the bodies, and stuff these with the crawfish meat, chopped up fine and mixed in with an equal quantity of fish forcemeat made with crawfish, butter (No. 573) , season well, and poach them in boiling, salted water. Put these stuffed bodies into the soup as garnishing, and if too large cut them in two lengthwise. (322). MENESTRONE MILANESE SOUP (Potage Menestrone à la Milanaise). Chop up half a pound of fat fresh pork, put it into a saucepan with a clove of garlic, half a pound of raw ham cut in dice, three-sixteenths of an inch square, half a pound of string beans , cut lozenge shape, half a pound of small flageolet beans and half a pound of Kohl sprouts cut in quarter inch squares. Fry all these vegetables with the ham in the chopped up fat pork, moisten with six quarts of broth, boil, skim, then add one pint of green peas, one pound of asparagus tops, and half a pound of broad or lima bean s, after removing their outer skins, and also eight medium peeled and quartered tomatoes. Boil the whole, and when these vegetables are nearly done, twenty minutes before serving, add a quarter of a pound of blanched rice. Cook some smoked sausages, by soaking them for ten minutes in boiling water, then lift them out and peel them; cut into slices, and put them into the soup; suppress the clove of garlic, and serve with grated parmesan separate. (323). MARSHALL SOUP (Potage à la Marshall). Make a garnishing of stuffed cucumbers, by peeling three small cucumbers, divide them crossways into parts each a quarter of an inch high, and blanch the pieces for fifteen minutes in salted water, then drain, cut out the center with a three-quarter inch column tube, so as to remove the seeds; fill the insides with a raw fine herb quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) , and range them in a saucepan garnished with salt pork; moisten them with broth, add some salt, cover with buttered paper, and leave them to cook slowly. Despumate on the side of the fire two quarts of consommé, thickening it with two dessertspoonfuls of fecula diluted in two gills of Madeira wine; pour the soup into a soup tureen and serve the cucumbers at the same time, but in a separate vegetable dish. (324). MEISSONIER SOUP (Potage à la Meissonier). Despumate on the side of the range, about three quarts of thickened soup, prepared with mutton broth. Remove the fat and hard parts from a cold, braised saddle of mutton; then take one pound of lean meat and pound it, mixing with it when cold, three minced white onions fried in butter and cooked in consommé. Pound all well together, and rub it forcibly through a fine sieve, and put this purée into a bowl with a little cayenne pepper and from four to eight raw egg-yolks, diluting with two gills of cream. At the last moment skim the fat from the soup, strain, and return it to the saucepan to let boil up, then set it aside and thicken it at once with the above preparation; heat it once more without boiling, and finish the soup with a piece of butter; pour it into a soup tureen and serve with a plateful of hot, small, round pieces of toasted bread. (325). MONTEILLE SOUP (Potage à la Monteille). Serve a chicken consommé (No. 190) , garnished with stuffed lettuces (2572), and cucumbers prepared as follows: Cut off the ends of the cucumbers, peel them nicely, and divide them lengthwise into inch pieces; remove the seeds, pare them to resemble cloves of garlic, then fry them in butter in a saucepan, season, and finish cooking them in a little white broth, in such a way that they are thoroughly done when the liquid is entirely reduced. Serve separately the lettuce and cucumbers in a vegetable dish, and at the same time a tureen of chicken consommé. (326). MONTORGUEIL SOUP (Potage à la Montorgueil). Keep boiling on the side of the fire, one and a half quarts of thickened chicken soup stock (No. 195) , despumating it for forty minutes. Prepare a garnishing of tender vegetables, composed of green peas, string beans , green or white asparagus tops, small Brussels sprouts, small new carrots whole or cut up, some of the tender leaves picked from a cabbage, and some well minced lettuce and sorrel leaves. These vegetables must be blanched separately according to their nature, only the sorrel leaves remaining raw. One hour before serving, skim off the fat from the soup, strain the broth, and return it to the saucepan; boil the liquid on the side of the range, add the vegetables according to their tenderness, the hardest ones first, and finally the cut up leaves. Now put into an earthern bowl, five or six egg-yolks, dilute them with a little cream, add some grated nutmeg and a few small pats of butter; thicken the soup with this, and finish with a small piece more butter, mixed with some spinach green. Pour it into a soup tureen and serve. (327). MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, INDIAN STYLE (Potage Mullagatawny à l'Indienne). Put eight quarts of broth into a saucepan with two knuckles of veal, sawed crosswise into four pieces, and some fragments of chicken; boil, skim and add a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf and a clove of garlic; season with salt, pepper, mace and cloves; boil slowly for three hours, then remove the veal knuckles and cut off all the meat adhering to the bones, and set it under a weight to press it to a quarter of an inch thick and let get cool and cut up into quarter of inch squares. Strain the broth through a sieve, and skim off the fat. Have half a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, half a pound of onions, two ounces of knob celery, six apples and four ounces of ham, all well minced, adding one pound of boneless chicken meat, after removing the skin and fat, and cutting it in five-eighths inch squares. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan, heat it well, then begin first by frying the onions, afterward the carrots, turnips, ham, knob celery, apples and chicken. When all are fried and slightly colored, add to them six tablespoonfuls of flour, mixing it in well, then dilute with the broth, let boil and continue to boil until every article is well cooked; season and add three teaspoonfuls of curry, and a little sugar, drain, remove the pieces of chicken and press the vegetables through a sieve. Put this purée back into the saucepan, return it to the fire with the veal and chicken, and stir from the bottom of the saucepan until boiling point. Let simmer for twenty-five minutes, taste and see if the seasoning be correct, then serve. Send to the table at the same time, some rice boiled in salted water, mixing in some lard or butter. (328). MUSSEL SOUP À LA VIGO (Potage de Moules à la Vigo). For Ten Persons. -Take two ounces or one medium sized onion, cut it in one-eighth of an inch squares, and fry brownless in some butter, add to this sixty medium mussels previously cooked in very little water and white wine (no salt ), parsley, thyme and bay leaf; when the shells open they are done, remove them from the shells; from each one remove the black and nervous part, being careful not to break them while doing so. Strain the broth, let it settle so as to be able to pour off the clear top, put a little of the broth with the mussels and keep them warm. Put the rest of the broth in a saucepan with two quarts of thickened lean fish stock (No. 195) . Boil and despumate for ten minutes, then thicken with six egg-yolks, diluted in half a pint of cream and four ounces of fine butter. Put into the soup tureen four ounces of mushrooms cut in small Julienne, also the mussels; pour the boiling soup over and serve. (329). MUTTON À LA COWLEY AND MUTTON HOCHEPOT (Mouton à la Cowley et Mouton à la Hochepot). Bone and remove carefully the skin, nerves, and fat from three necks of mutton, cutting the meat into three-eighth inch squares. Put into a saucepan the fragments, bones and parings taken from the necks, also a split knuckle of veal; moisten with eight quarts of broth, and put it on the fire in order to boil the liquid; skim, and add some carrots, turnips, bunch of celery, leeks, and onions, all minced up fine, seasoning with pepper, salt, and cloves. Boil slowly and uninterruptedly for two hours; then skim off the fat, and strain the broth through a sieve. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan, with four ounces of one-eighth inch squares of onions; add four ounces of leeks cut Julienne shape, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, two ounces of celery, all being cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, and the meat from the necks previously prepared; moistening the whole with the broth, and cook for two hours. Then free it from fat, season and add a garnishing of small chicken quenelles (No. 154) , shaped as large peas and a pluche of chervil. A supplementary garnishing may be added of rice, or of pearl barley. For Mutton Hochepot, use the mutton the same as explained for the above, adding for each quart of broth, one pint of the purée of dried peas, and half a pint of purée of spinach. For all mixed clear soups, the consistency should be approximately after the soup is drained, two-thirds of liquid to one-third of solid matter, while for thick soups, three-quarters liquid to one-quarter solid. (330). NOODLE SOUP WITH PARMESAN CHEESE (Potage aux Nouilles au Fromage de Parmesan). For the Paste. -Sift through a fine sieve, half a pound of flour, moisten it with four egg-yolks and one whole egg, adding a little salt and water; work well together and knead it till the paste is thoroughly well mixed, roll it down to one-sixteenth inch in thickness; let it dry in the open air; then fold it up, one inch and a half wide, and cut this into fine strips, dredging them over with flour, to prevent them sticking together; blanch them in boiling, salted water for one minute, then drain and put them into a saucepan with some consommé to simmer for five minutes; remove all the fat from the top, and serve in a soup tureen with some good consommé. (331). ONION SOUP WITH PARMESAN CHEESE, BROWNED AND THICKENED ONION SOUP (Soupe à l'Oignon et au Fromage de Parmesan Gratiné et Soupe à l'Oignon liée). Cut into small eighth of an inch squares, two medium or four ounces of onions, fry them in butter and moisten with two quarts of broth, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with chervil, bay leaf and a clove of garlic; season with a little salt, pepper and some meat extract; boil for twenty minutes, then remove the bouquet, and pour the soup over very thin slices of bread placed in a metal soup tureen, in intervening layers of bread and cheese, parmesan, finishing with the parmesan, and sprinkle a little over the top of the soup. Bake in a hot oven. Onion Soup Thickened. -To prepare onion soup cut up two medium onions, mince them finely, and fry them colorless in butter, adding two dessertspoonfuls of flour, and cooking it a few moments with the onions, then dilute with two quarts of broth. Season with pepper and a little salt, boil for ten minutes, and just when ready to serve thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks diluted in cream, and a little fine butter. Pour the soup over round, thin slices of bread, about a quarter of an inch in diameter, dried in the oven. (332). OXTAIL SOUP À LA SOYER (Potage de Queue de Bœuf à la Soyer). Cut three oxtails into small pieces from the thin end, stopping at the third joint from the thick end, and keep this large piece aside for braising (No. 1324). Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan; cut four ounces of the red part of a carrot, and the same quantity of turnip into quarter inch squares, add these to the butter after it is hot, also a bunch of parsley, garnished with one bay leaf, and fry without letting attain a color, then add three tablespoonfuls of flour and the tails; cook all together to a light brown, afterward moistening with four quarts of broth, and adding a quarter of a pound of blanched onions, cut in squares. Season with salt and Worcestershire sauce, boil slowly and continuously until the meat is done. Have cooked separately for three hours in some white broth, two ounces of pearl barley, add this to the soup, also one gill of sherry when serving. If clear oxtail be needed, suppress the flour and barley, and thicken with three spoonfuls of arrowroot diluted in a little cold water. (333). OYSTER SOUP, AMERICAN STLYE (Soupe aux Huîtres à l'Américaine). For Ten Persons. -Put sixty medium oysters including their juice, and as much water, into a tin saucepan with a perforated cover ( Fig. 186), specially made for this soup; season with salt and pepper, and set them on a quick fire; as soon as the steam escapes through the holes on the cover, remove the saucepan from the fire, and pour into it two and a half gills of milk, and two and a half ounces of butter, then serve. In those establishments whose specialty is oysters, before serving oyster soup, they place before each person a plateful of finely minced raw cabbage (cold slaw); this cabbage is to be seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and tomato catsup. (334). OYSTER SOUP À LA CRUYST (Soupe aux Huîtres à la Cruyst). For Ten Persons. -Mince up the white part of a small leek, and cut one small onion into one-eighth inch squares; fry these colorless in two ounces of butter, add two ounces of bread-crumbs, frying it in with the onion, and also sixty oysters with their own juice and a quart and a half of fish broth. Set the saucepan over a quick fire, and stir vigorously to prevent the oysters from sticking to the bottom, then skim, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; when ready to serve thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportions for each quart being, two egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter. Stir in also, when serving, a little chopped parsley. (335). OYSTER SOUP, FRENCH STYLE (Soupe aux Huîtres à la Française). Cut two ounces of onions into eighth of an inch squares; fry them without coloring in some butter, and add sixty medium oysters with as much water as there is oyster juice; then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place the saucepan on the fire, and remove again at the first boil, lay the oysters into a soup tureen and strain the broth through a fine sieve, returning it to the fire to add to it half a pint of béchamel (No. 409), and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and butter, the proportions for each quart being, three raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of good butter. Make a garnishing of pike quenelles (No. 90) , adding to it some cooked fine herbs; another garnishing may also be used, composed of round bread croûtons, each one inch in diameter, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven; serve these separately, but at the same time as the soup. (336). OYSTER SOUP WITH POWDERED OKRA OR GUMBO (Soupe aux Huîtres au Gombo en poudre). Mince a two ounce onion finely, fry it in two ounces of butter without letting it attain a color, then add sixty medium oysters with their juice, and the same quantity of water, season with salt and red pepper, then place the saucepan on a quick fire and remove at the first boil; skim and thicken with two spoonfuls of powdered gumbo for each quart of soup. Have some rice boiled in salted water; when done, mix in with it a little butter and set it in a buttered mold, place it in a hot oven for ten minutes and serve this separately, but at the same time as the soup, after unmolding it. (337). SOUP WITH OYSTER RAVIOLES (Soupe aux Ravioles d;Huîtres). Poach in white wine three or four dozen large oysters, drain them, and keep the broth; cut the oysters into small dice, and thicken this salpicon with three spoonfuls of pike forcemeat (No. 90) , and as much reduced béchamel (No. 409) . With this salpicon and some raviole paste (No. 147) , rolled out very thin, prepare some small round ravioles, cutting them out with a pastry cutter one inch and a quarter in diameter. Put to boil on the side of the fire, three quarts of thickened fish stock (No. 195) ; add to this the oyster broth, and despumate the whole for twenty-five minutes; at the last moment remove all the fat, and thicken the soup with a thickening of four or five egg-yolks, cream, butter, season to taste with salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the soup into a tureen, add to it the ravioles, previously cooked for twelve minutes in salted water. (338). PARTRIDGE SOUP À LA ROYALE (Potage de Perdreau à la Royale). Put to boil on the side of the fire, two quarts of thickened game stock (No. 195) . Pound the meat taken from the breasts of two cooked and cold partridges; press them forcibly through a sieve, and put this purée into a bowl to dilute with seven or eight egg-yolks, and a few spoonfuls of raw cream; season it to taste. Fill small buttered timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with this preparation, poach them (No. 152) . Break up the partridge bones, add them to the soup, also a bunch of aromatic herbs, and some mushroom parings. Twenty minutes later skim off the fat, season and strain the soup through a tammy, and return it again to the saucepan; boil it up twice, and then stir in four spoonfuls of Madeira wine, meanwhile keeping it very hot. At the last moment unmold the small poached timbales; put in the soup tureen, and gently pour the soup over them. (339). ITALIAN OR GENOA PASTES; LASAGNE, LASAGNETTE, TAGLIARELLI, MACCARONI, VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI, PAILLETTES, MACCARONCELLI, FLORENCE SNOW (Pâte d'Italie ou de Gênes; Lasagne, Lasagnette, Tagliarelli, Maccaroni, Vermicelli, Spaghetti, Paillettes, Maccaroncelli et Neige de Florence). All these various pastes are to be previously blanched by throwing them into boiling water for five or ten minutes according to their respective thickness. When blanched, drain them, and finish cooking in broth or consommé, the proportion being half a pound of paste to three or four quarts of liquid. Put the paste into a soup tureen and pour the soup over, serving at the same time on a separate plate, some grated parmesan cheese. Lasagne, Lasagnette and Tagliarelli. -Blanch of these one half pound for five minutes, cook them in a quart of broth, and serve in a tureen with consommé. Maccaroni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli, Paillettes, Maccaroncelli. -For the large macaroni, blanch half a pound for twelve minutes or less in proportion to their thickness, when done, drain, and cook them in a quart of broth. Serve in a soup tureen with consommé. Italian or Genoa Pastes and Vermicelli. -Blanch half a pound of these for five minutes, drain and cook them in a quart of broth, serve in a soup tureen with consommé. Florence Snow. -Florence snow is made of fine gluten paste, extremely white and distributed into very fine shavings. This paste does not require any cooking; range it on plates and pass it round to the guests, after serving the soup, when each one takes some if so desired. This paste dissolves as soon as it comes in contact with a hot liquid. (340). PATERSON SOUP (Potage à la Paterson). Put into a saucepan on the fire three quarts of broth, and when boiling, dredge into it five spoonfuls of tapioca; let it cook for twenty-five minutes, being careful to remove all the scum arising on the surface, then strain and keep it warm. Have a garnishing of timbales of purée of green peas made as follows: One pint of purée of green peas, into which mix one whole egg and four yolks, salt, sugar and nutmeg; pour this into buttered timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 137), place the molds in a pan with water to half their height, and poach them in a slack oven, unmold and cut them in two crosswise; have also small three-eighths of an inch pearl quenelles (No. 154) , also some mushrooms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. (341). PILAU, TURKISH STYLE (Pilau à la Turque). Put two knuckles of veal into a saucepan with eight quarts of broth, a few slices of raw ham, one chicken, and a roasted shoulder of lamb; boil up the liquid, skim, and add to it three carrots, two turnips, one celery stalk, six leeks, two onions, and two cloves; continue to boil slowly, till each one of the meats is done, then take them out as fast as cooked; strain the broth, remove all the fat, and clarify it, then reduce it one-quarter. Cut the chicken into small pieces, and put them into the soup; mince the shoulder of lamb, cut the ham into small dice, and after placing the knuckle of veal under a weight to get cool, cut it up into squares, and add all these to the soup, with some salt, red pepper, a slight infusion of saffron, and half a pound of blanched Sultana raisins. Parboil a quarter of a pound of rice for ten minutes in boiling, salted water, drain, and put it into three pints of boiling white broth; at the first boil, remove it from the fire, cover, and finish cooking in a cool oven for twenty-five minutes; when done, put it into the soup and serve. (342). POT-AU-FEU IN LARGE SOUP-POT (Pot-au-feu dans des Grandes Marmites). For Sixteen Persons. -Have a soup-pot of enameled or lined cast-iron containing sixteen quarts of liquid; put into it a piece of boned, rolled and tied up, rump of beef weighing eight pounds and eight quarts of water or beef stock. Put the pot on the fire; heat it so as to bring the liquid to a boil, then skim it off carefully at the first boil, and set the pot back from the hot fire. Roast the bones taken from the meat, also one pound of knuckle of veal and some chicken giblets, add them to the soup, and leave it on one side or on a gas stove, watching it well to see that it boils slowly and continuously, on one side only, so as to obtain a very clear broth; let the meats cook for four or five hours, more or less according to their thickness and tenderness, and when the beef is half done, strain slowly the liquid through a sieve without disturbing it. Remove the piece of rump, empty the pot, clean it well, and return to it the meat and the broth, after having partially removed the fat, then put the saucepan back on the fire, and at the first boil mix to it a pound and a half of the white part of leeks tied together, a pound and a half of large carrots, three-quarters of a pound of turnips, half a pound of celery -knob or root, one medium onion with two cloves and one ounce of parsnips, then add one or two young chickens weighing three pounds each, trussed and browned in the oven. Continue to boil all very slowly, being careful to remove the chicken and meat as fast as they are done; also the vegetables, keeping them warm. Saw sixteen pieces from a marrow-bone each one inch long, wrap them up in separate pieces of linen, tie them, and poach them for eight minutes in the boiling broth. At the last moment salt and color the broth properly, and strain it through a silk sieve or a damp napkin, keeping it warm. Have two vegetable dishes of braised cabbage, the leeks, carrots, turnips, and celery arranged in clusters, and neatly trimmed so that every person may be able to help himself to one or the other as desired. Toast, or butter, and then color in the oven, thirty-two croûtons of bread three-sixteenths of an inch thick, by one and a half inches in diameter, also have the sixteen pieces of prepared marrow. Pour the soup into the soup tureen, and send the vegetables to the table, separately, also the croûtons and marrow. When serving the soup, put into each plate a piece of marrow bone, two croûtons and some soup, and pass the dishes containing the vegetables around separate. The boiled beef can be served at the same time, dressing it on to a dish, and surrounding it with the chicken cut in pieces, and branches of parsley; serve at the same time a sauceboat of tomato sauce (No. 549). (343). RICE SOUP À LA RUDINI (Potage au riz à la Rudini). Put a quarter of a pound of picked and washed rice into a saucepan, with two quarts of cold water, set it on the fire, and stir occasionally to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom; let it boil up once, then refresh it, finish cooking it in consommé with a piece of fine butter, and a pinch of black pepper; mingle in with it when done, three ounces of grated parmesan cheese, four raw egg-yolks, and set it away to get cold. Divide this preparation into small five-eighth inch diameter balls; a few moments before serving roll them on to a dish containing two beaten eggs, drain them and put them one by one into new frying fat not too hot, and let them assume a nice golden color; then drain them again, and dry them in a napkin. Have two quarts of thickened chicken broth (No. 195), bring it to a boil, and remove it from the fire. Place four egg-yolks in a bowl, dilute them with one gill of cold broth, add four ounces of fine butter divided in small pieces, pour slowly into this thickening a quarter of the stock while stirring continually; return it to the rest of the stock, working it in briskly with a whisk, season to taste; pass it through a fine sieve or tammy. Pour this into a soup tureen, and serve separate a garnishing of the rice balls, and a plateful of grated Parmesan cheese. (344). SHERMAN SOUP (Potage à la Sherman). Have a garnishing of stuffed cabbage leaves, prepared as follows: Blanch some cabbage leaves, drain and trim them nicely, then fill the insides with a quenelle and cooked fine herb forcemeat (No. 89) , roll them up and lay them one beside the other, cover them with bouillon and a sheet of buttered paper, cook in a slack oven for two hours, being careful to add some moistening when they become too reduced. Cut some carrots into three-eighth inch balls, blanch and cook them in broth; prepare a pluche of chervil; chervil leaves free of stalks, thrown into boiling water for one minute, then drained. Cut the cooked cabbage in slices of a quarter of an inch leaves, lay them on a deep dish, and dust over some grated parmesan cheese, over this place some thin slices of buttered bread browned in the oven, then another layer of cabbage, cheese and bread; pour over some very fat broth; besprinkle grated parmesan on top, and bake in the oven. Pour some consommé into a soup tureen, add the carrots and chervil, and serve the baked cabbage apart. (345). SHRIMP SOUP, MIGNON (Potage aux Crevettes, Mignon). Keep boiling on the side of the fire one quart and a half of thickened fish stock (No. 195) . Break off the tails from a hundred cooked red shrimps, pick the meat from the shells, trim them and pound the parings with one-third of the picked tails, selecting the smallest ones for this; also a piece of butter and four egg-yolks, then press all through a sieve; keep the purée in a cool place, also the remainder of the picked tails cut in small dice. Put into the boiling soup half of the pounded shells; with a smallest size root spoon, five-sixteenth of an inch, cut out some very small cooked truffle balls, and set these into another small saucepan; divide into two equal parts the value of four or five spoonfuls of raw fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) ; into one mix some Breton carmine, leaving the other half white; place these two forcemeats separately into a paper cornet, and push them through on to a buttered baking sheet to form beads; poach them separately in salted water, drain and lay them in the soup tureen. From one quart of shelled green peas select one to two gills of the smallest and tenderest, and boil them in water; when drained, add them to the quenelles in the soup tureen. After the soup is well despumated, remove all its grease and strain it through a tammy; return it to a clean saucepan, let it boil, adding to it three spoonfuls of Madeira wine; two minutes later, thicken it with the shrimp purée and cook this thickening without letting it boil. Remove, and finish with a dash of cayenne pepper and a piece of red butter. Pour the soup into the tureen, add to it the shrimp tails, butter and truffles, and serve at once. (346). SMALL INDIVIDUAL SOUP-POTS (Petites Marmites Individuelles). There are two different ways of serving these. The first by making the soup in small soup-pots each one containing one-half a quart or more, diminishing the proportions of meat, vegetables and liquid, either of water or broth, after the proportions indicated in the pot-au-feu (No. 342) . The second is to serve the pot-au-feu when it is ready, with the contents, dividing it into small individual pots, making an equal division of the meats, vegetables and liquid, into as many parts as there are half quarts of soup; and divide as well the meats, vegetables, and liquid into small two quart pots, having the meats and vegetables the same size as for the pint ones; for the one or the other use only half the beef meat well pared; the carrots, turnips, and celery cut into cylindricals, and divided into small parts, and each chicken into sixteen pieces; (Before using the small stone pots, they should be lined with the fragments of the chickens and vegetables, aromatics and spices, and cooked in the oven for twelve hours, pouring at intervals boiling water into them, so that they remain always full, then washed well out before using.) After the pots are filled, pour over the very hot broth, adding a tablespoonful of braised cabbage and the leeks divided, then boil the contents for a few minutes, and just when ready to serve, add for each pint four marrow bones sawed into inch thick pieces. Dress them over napkins on a plate. Each guest should have his individual soup-pot containing a little over a pint, and serve at the same time slices of toasted bread or bread buttered and browned in the oven, the size being three-sixteenths by one and one-half inches in diameter. FIG. 198. An illustration of a Large Round Cooking Pot. (347). SORREL, SORREL WITH HERBS, AND SORREL FLEMISH STYLE (Oseille, Oseille aux Herbes, et Oseille à la Flamande). Remove the stalks from a good handful of sorrel, mince it up fine, then fry it in two ounces of good butter, and moisten with two quarts of broth or water; season with salt and a dash of sugar, and let boil for fifteen minutes. Cut thin slices from some French rolls, butter them, and put them in the hot oven to brown; set them in the soup tureen and pour the soup over. Sorrel with Herbs. -Sorrel soup may also be made by mincing fine a small handful of sorrel, half as much lettuce, and quarter as much chervil as lettuce. Melt and heat two ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the herbs, fry them, and then moisten with two quarts and a half of broth or water, boil slowly for half an hour, and just before serving pour in gradually a thickening of four egg-yolks, a gill of cream, and one ounce of fine butter. A garnishing may be served of croûtons dried in the oven, or some vermicelli. Flemish Style. -For sorrel, Flemish style, prepare the soup as in the first article above; the only difference to observe is, that before putting in the sorrel, fry some leeks, onions, potatoes and artichoke bottoms, all minced up very fine; add the sorrel, and finish as for the above. Serve with a garnishing of rice cooked in white broth, and some green peas. (348). SPAGHETTI WITH CREAM (Spaghetti à la Crême). Melt four ounces of butter in a saucepan, adding two dessert spoonfuls of flour; cook the flour slowly, so as to make a blond roux, then dilute with two quarts of consommé, stir the liquid until it boils, move it aside at once, and continue to boil slowly and uninterruptedly for twenty-five minutes, strain through a fine strainer, and put it back into a clean saucepan. Cook in salted water, some spaghetti macaroni, drain it and cut it up in one inch length pieces, having about one pound, and put this in with the consommé. Place in a bowl four raw egg-yolks, with two ounces of grated parmesan, dilute it with two gills of raw cream, and one ounce of butter; pour this thickening into the soup, and let heat without boiling; season, and serve it in a soup tureen. The spaghetti can be replaced by any of the Italian pastes. (349). SPANISH OILLA (Oilla à l'Espagnole). Put to soak in tepid water for twelve hours, half a pound of chick peas ( Garbanzos ). Set in an earthen pot, or any other kind, six pounds of lean breast of beef, three pounds of leg of mutton cut near the knee bone, half a pound of un smoked salt pork, cut in one piece and then blanched, and half a pound of smoked ham, well pared and blanched. Cover with water, add the garbonzos boil and skim, maintaining a slow ebullition. Two hours after, put in the broth, one fowl, two partridges, a piece of squash weighing one pound, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of onions, a bunch of parsley with a bay leaf, and clove of garlic, and one pound of chorissos sausages ( garlic sausage ). Blanch twelve lettuce heads, also two cabbages cut in four. After removing the cores (the hard part), take out the meats as soon as they are severally done, cool them partially, and then cut them into half inch squares. Strain the broth through a napkin, pour it in a soup tureen with rice cooked in fat broth, and if the meats should not be added to the soup, serve them separately as a garnishing, by cutting them up in slices, and arranging them in a circle on a dish. The chicken in the center, a partridge on each side, the lettuces on one side, the chick peas on the other, the cabbages on the ends, and the sausages cut into slices and laid on top of the cabbage. A tomato sauce served separately, also a green sauce à l'éspagnole (No. 473) . (350). TERRAPIN, CLEAR, THICK OR WHITE (Terrapène au Clair, Liée ou à Blanc). Prepare and cook the terrapin as told in No. 1082, observing all the instructions given for the preparation of these turtles. For Clear Terrapin. -When the terrapins are cooked, select the largest ones, bone them entirely, and cut up the pieces found to be too large, and being more than one inch; it will require one pound and a half. Prepare a stock the same as for clear turtle (No. 353) , thicken with arrowroot or else fecula, when the stock is ready and nicely seasoned, add the terrapin to it, boil it up for a few minutes and finish the soup with some brandy and Madeira wine. Serve separately the pulp of two lemons, two hard boiled, chopped up eggs, and some chopped parsley, the whole on one or several plates, together or each article separate. For Thick Terrapin Soup. -Make it exactly the same as the clear terrapin, with the exception of using the same stock as for thick green turtle soup (No. 353). For Terrapin Soup, White. -Prepare it as for the above, only thickening it with velouté (No. 415) ; diluting it with chicken broth (for lean use lean velouté and fish broth ). Boil, skim, season properly, then add when ready to serve, some raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportions being two raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of fine butter for each quart. (351). DRIED TURTLE, THICK AND CLEAR (Tortue Sèche Liée et Claire). Dry. -This green turtle comes from South America; it is raw and dried in pieces; the only parts being used for drying are the cutaneous ones. When the dried turtle is needed put it first to soak in cold water for two or three days, changing the water frequently. Half a pound of dry turtle suffices to make soup for eight persons; when the pieces have softened, put them into a small stock -pot with six quarts of water, adding to it a piece of shin of beef, weighing two pounds; a two pound piece of neck of veal, a three pound chicken, two or three chicken giblets, a bone of cooked ham, carrots, celery, a bunch of marjoram, savory, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook the meats the same as for a pot-à-feu (No. 342) , either on the gas, or on the back of the range, and as soon as the pieces of turtle are done, remove them and plunge them into cold water; then cut them into one inch and a quarter squares, and lay them in a saucepan with a little consommé; skim off the fat from the soup, strain, and set about two quarts of it into a saucepan; thicken it with blond roux (No. 163) , despumate the soup while allowing it to boil slowly, remove all the fat, and season with salt and cayenne pepper, also two gills of good Madeira wine. Put the pieces of turtle into a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. Should the turtle be needed clear, then suppress the roux, clarify the broth, and thicken it with arrowroot or potato fecula. Serve slices of lemon at the same time. (352). PREPARATION OF A GREEN TURTLE WEIGHING ONE HUNDRED POUNDS (Préparation d'une Tortue peasnt cent livres). Lay the turtle on its back, and when it stretches out his head, seize it with one hand, and holding a knife in the other, cut its neck, leave it to bleed, then lay it again on its back, pass the knife along the flat shell, about one inch from the edge. Detach the flat shell and remove all the meat from the inside, doing exactly the same for the back, then saw them into six or eight pieces, plunge them into boiling water to remove the scales, doing the same for the four fins. Put the turtle meat into a soup pot with two knuckles of veal, moisten it with broth, let boil, then skim and add sprigs of parsley, celery, sage, marjoram, basil, thyme, bay leaf, mace, cloves, whole peppers and salt, cook for one hour, add the pieces of shell and fins and let boil again until all are cooked, then take them out and put them into cold water. Remove the gelatinous parts of the turtle, cut them into one and a half inch squares, strain the broth through a fine sieve and reduce it to a half glaze, add the green parts and let boil very slowly until the turtle be thoroughly cooked and the stock well reduced. If wanted for further use pour it into tin boxes, surround them with ice, and when perfectly cold cover the tops with hot fat and lay them aside in the ice box. (353). GREEN TURTLE SOUP, CLEAR À LA ROYAL OR THICK, WITH MARROW QUENELLES (Soupe Tortue Verte, Claire à la Royale ou liée, aux Quenelles à la Moelle). Clear. -Put eight quarts of beef stock into a soup-pot with four pounds of leg of veal, and four pounds of fowl or chicken wings, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, basil, marjoram, mushroom trimmings, and celery; boil all for three hours, then strain through a sieve, and afterward through a napkin. Clarify this stock the same as consommé with chopped beef. Cook separately the prepared turtle, and keep it warm in a steamer (bain-marie); add to the soup a dessertspoonful of arrowroot for each quart, diluted with a little water, and add it to the boiling broth, stirring it in with a whip; boil and despumate the soup for twenty minutes, then season. When ready to serve, drain the turtle, lay it in a soup tureen, and pour over the stock, seasoning with cayenne pepper and half a gill of Xérès for each quart. For Clear Turtle à la Royal. -Add some royale timbales (No. 241) . Thick Turtle with Marrow Quenelles. -Proceed exactly the same as for clear turtle, but instead of thickening it with arrowroot, thicken the soup with a little brown roux, moistened with the turtle stock, boil and despumate, and strain through a fine sieve. Garnish with marrow quenelles (No. 252) , or if preferred, use turtle fat instead of marrow. Quenelles may also be made with a quarter of a pound of hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with one ounce of butter and four raw egg-yolks, seasoning with salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley; divide this into pieces, roll them into balls half an inch in diameter, and poach them in boiling water; drain, and serve with the soup. (354). MOCK TURTLE OR CALF'S HEAD, CLEAR SOUP (Soupe Fausse Tortue ou Tête de Veau au Clair). Bone a calf 's head the same as described for plain calf 's head (No. 1519) ; put it into cold water in a saucepan on the fire, boil up the liquid and let it continue boiling for half an hour, then drain, refresh and singe it. Butter the bottom of a saucepan, cover it with slices of ham, a carrot and some onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with sage, chives, thyme and bay leaf. Split the bones taken from the head, lay them on this bed of vegetables and add two pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound and a half of chicken, or else some chicken thighs, either of these being partially roasted; moisten with a quart of water, and let boil on a moderate fire until the liquid is reduced and fallen to a glaze, and the vegetables slightly colored. Moisten again with six quarts or either broth or water, add the blanched calf 's head, boil up the liquid again, then skim and throw in one onion with a clove in it, a little mace and a quarter of a pound of mushroom trimmings; continue to boil slowly and when the head is cooked, remove it from the stock; cover it over with broth, and leave it till cold. Now cut away the white skin near the snout, divide the meat into equal sized half inch square pieces, taking only the cutaneous parts. Remove the chicken when done, season the stock, skim off the fat and strain it through a sieve, clarify it with two pounds of chopped beef and one whole egg, proceeding the same as for a consommé. Strain the liquid through a napkin or a silk sieve, and thicken it with a spoonful of fecula for each quart, diluting the fecula with half a gill of sherry and a little water, and then pouring it into the soup, stirring it vigorously until all is well mixed, then return it to the fire and stir again until it boils. Pound the meat from the chickens free of all fat, bones and skin, add to them when well pounded, four hard boiled egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg and four raw egg-yolks, rubbing all through a sieve, mix in some chopped parsley and with this preparation make some small half inch diameter quenelles; poach them in boiling and salted water, drain and put them into a saucepan with the pieces of calf 's head, moisten with the stock, boil and skim, then add half a gill of Madeira or extra sherry wine for each quart of soup, and the juice of half a lemon for each quart; pour it into a soup tureen and serve very hot. (355). MOCK TURTLE SOUP, THICKENED (Soupe Fausse tortue Liée). It needs one gallon of soup for twelve persons. Proceed exactly the same as for the clear mock turtle only leaving out the fecula thickening. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on a slow fire, and when melted, mix in with it a quarter of a pound of flour, cook it slowly to obtain a blond roux, which then moisten with clear turtle stock, until it becomes the consistency of a light sauce, cook it slowly and keep despumating it for half an hour, then strain it through a sieve or tammy, and return it to the fire in a very clean saucepan, and after bringing the liquid up to a boil, despumate it again. Add the quenelles, the calf 's head cut in pieces, and the pulp of a lemon without any peel or pips, also half a gill of sherry wine for each quart of soup. (356). VELVET SOUP (Potage Velours). Mince up fine the red part of a few good carrots; stew them with butter, salt, sugar and a little broth, and when done strain through a sieve and afterward through a tammy ( Fig. 88). Put two quarts of good clear broth on to boil, mix in with it four tablespoonfuls of tapioca, let it despumate for twenty-five minutes on the side of the fire, skimming it off well. At the last moment add the carrot purée, season boil up once or twice more, and serve in a soup tureen. (357). WESTMORELAND SOUP (Potage à la Westmoreland). For sixteen persons. -Prepare two quarts of reduced and well-seasoned chicken consommé (No. 190) ; boil it, then thicken it with arrowroot, colored with a little roucou (Annotto); dilute the arrowroot and roucou in cold water, and add it slowly with the soup, stirring it in continually with a whip or spoon; then boil and skim. Prepare three-quarters of a pound of cooked calf 's head the gelatinous, cutaneous parts, free of all fat and meat, press to three-eighths of an inch, cut this into three-eighth inch squares, and keep them warm in a quart of consommé. Have half a pound of round chicken quenelles (No. 154) , half an inch in diameter laid through a bag on to a buttered tin pan, and poached in boiling salted water, and add them to the calf 's head. Braised sweetbreads set under a weight, having half a pound in all, and pressed down to three-eighths of an inch in thickness, then cut in squares when cold, and put them to keep hot with the quenelles and calf 's head; have also some celery cut in quarter inch squares, blanched and cooked in consommé, a quarter of a pound in all, and when done, add them to the other garnishings. Just when about serving, taste the soup, season it accordingly, and pour it over the garnishings in a soup tureen. (358). NOQUES OR QUENèFES SOUP (Potage aux Noques et aux Quenèfes). Melt in a saucepan three ounces of butter, dredge in the same weight of flour and stir this over a moderate fire so as to obtain a light roux (No. 163) ; moisten with two quarts of broth, and stir again until it boils slowly and on one side only; despumate the soup by removing all the scum and fat arising to the surface. Noques. -Beat up with a spoon five ounces of partially melted butter placed in a bowl, and when it is creamed, then incorporate into it three egg-yolks and one whole egg; as the compound becomes frothy, add to it four ounces of flour and two beaten egg-whites, season with salt and nutmeg, and try the preparation by taking up a teaspoonful and letting it fall, detaching it with another teaspoon, into boiling, salted water, and if it be too light and requires more consistency, then add a little more flour mixed with a little hot water, but if it be too consistent, then more butter is needed. Keep the noques in boiling water without letting them boil until they are well poached and firm, then drain, and range them in a soup tureen; remove the fat once more from the soup and thicken it with four egg-yolks and two gills of cream and a little butter; pour it over the noques after straining it through a fine sieve. Quenèfes. -Put into a bowl four yolks and two whole eggs, salt, and nutmeg; mix well, then add six ounces of flour, and to test whether the paste is sufficiently thick, take up some of it in a teaspoon, detach it with another spoon moistened with hot water, and let it drop into boiling water to cook for half an hour without boiling. Drain and use these quenèfes instead of noques for the above soup. (359). RAVIOLE AND PEARL SOUP (Potage aux Ravioles et aux Perles). Place four quarts of good consommé into a saucepan, and after it boils skim it well. Blanch in boiling water for five minutes, two ounces of Nizam pearls, drain, and add them to the boiling consommé; cook until they become transparent, which will take about twenty minutes, pour the soup into the soup tureen, adding some poached ravioles (No. 158) , and serve at the same time a plateful of grated parmesan cheese. (360). WOODCOCK SOUP (Potage de Bécasses). Remove the four fillets from two cold roasted woodcocks; pound two of these fillets with the livers and a few slices of cooked foies-gras; press through a sieve, and put this purée into a mortar, mixing in with it a third of its quantity of raw game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) ; two whole eggs, a pinch of nutmeg, and half a gill of cold éspagnole sauce. Poach this preparation in small buttered timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137). Despumate on the side of the fire, two quarts of game stock (No. 195) , add to it the carcasses, necks, and heads of the woodcocks, all chopped up and a few aromatic herbs and twenty minutes later, skim off the fat, strain it through a tammy, and put it back into a clean saucepan, to heat, stirring it with a spatula continually to prevent the soup adhering to the bottom of the pan, finish by incorporating into it a small piece of butter, having previously removed the soup from the fire. Pour the soup into a tureen, adding the two breasts kept aside, mincing them up in Julienne, also the poached timbales. SOUPS AND DIFFERENT PREPARATIONS FOR INVALIDS. (361). INDIAN ARROWROOT (Arrowroot de l'Inde). Prepare a plain chicken broth as indicated in No. 188 ; for each quart of this dilute a tablespoonful of arrowroot with a little of the cold broth, so as to form a smooth and liquid paste, add to it gradually the boiling broth, then boil all, stirring unceasingly with a spatula. After the first boil, simmer it gently for half an hour, carefully stirring it at times to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pan; then serve. (362). BAVAROISE (Bavaroise). An infusion of tea sweetened with gum syrup and orange flower-water with milk. Have half as much boiling milk as tea; sweeten it with gum syrup, and flavor with orange flower-water; the latter can be replaced by a small glassful of good brandy. Bavaroise is taken at night before retiring. (363). CHICKEN BROTH PLAIN (Bouillon de Poulet Simple). Chop up three pounds of chicken carcasses; put them in a saucepan with two quarts and a half of water, and a little salt; boil, then skim, add a well washed lettuce head, and half an ounce of chervil. Let boil for an hour and a half, remove all the fat and pass through a fine sieve; serve in cups. This preparation should produce about a quart of liquid. (364). CHICKEN AND MUTTON BROTH WITH BARLEY (Bouillon de Poulet et Mouton à l'Orge). Break up three pounds of chicken carcasses and place them in a saucepan with a pound of lean mutton cut in squares and an ounce of pearl hulled barley washed in several waters, half a pound of minced and blanched turnips; moisten with three quarts of water, boil, skim, and reboil all gently for three hours; skim again, season and strain through a fine sieve; serve in cups. (365). CHICKEN AND VEAL BROTH (Bouillon de Poulet et de Veau). Place in a saucepan a pound and a half of broken up chicken carcasses and as much lean veal cut up in half inch squares; add three quarts of water, two ounces of carrots and an ounce of cut up turnips, both blanched in plenty of water and besides these two ounces of celery. Boil the whole for an hour and a half, skim off the fat, season with a little salt and strain through a fine sieve; serve in cups. (366). CLAM BROTH AND PURÉE (Bouillon de Lucines Orangées et Purée). Put one pint of clams into a saucepan with their own juice and a little water; cover the saucepan and set it on the fire, removing it after the first boil, then drain, and strain the liquor through either a fine sieve or else a napkin; serve it in cups. The clam purée to be prepared as follows: Pound the clams; after they are reduced to a paste, then moisten them with their own liquor, and as much water, and strain through a sieve. For either plain broth or purée, a little milk and butter may be added. (367). CUSTARD CREAM OF CHICKEN OR GAME (Crème Bain-Marie de Volaille ou de Gibier). Cut either a three pound chicken, or two grouse, or two partridges into four parts, remove the lights and kidneys, wash well and cook them in two quarts of water seasoned with salt, a few parsley stalks, half an ounce of chervil, six ounces of turnips, and four ounces of minced celery; boil, skim, and let simmer until the chicken or game be cooked, then strain the broth through a napkin. With twelve raw egg-yolks mix one quart of this broth, adding a very little at the time, and strain through a sieve; fill up some small cups to an eighth of an inch from the top; place these cups in a low saucepan with boiling water sufficient to reach to half their heighth, then set them on the fire and as soon as the water is ready to boil, push the saucepan into the oven; when firm to the touch, remove them, and serve them either hot or cold as required. (368). PLAIN EXTRACT OF BEEF (Extrait de Bœuf Simple). Chop up very fine one pound of lean beef, put it into a saucepan and dilute it gradually with three pints of cold bouillon (No. 187) ; set it on a slow fire, and stir until it comes to a boil, then place it on the back of the stove where it will not boil, leave it there for half an hour, and strain it through a fine sieve or napkin. (369). EXTRACT OF BEEF, CLARIFIED (Extrait de Bœuf, Clarifié). Remove the fat and nerves from five pounds of lean beef, either from the leg or rump, chop it up very fine and divide it equally into three empty and well washed champagne bottles, adding to each bottle, one gill of broth or water, or not any should a more concentrated extract be desired; cork and tie them well. Place these bottles in a high bain-marie, wrapping each bottle up in a cloth, and fill to five-sixths of their heighth with water; boil continually for two hours, and leave the bottles in the water one half hour after removing the saucepan from the fire, then uncork carefully. Fold two sheets of filtering paper together, lay them in a glass funnel and set these over high gallon glass jars, pour the liquid slowly through the paper and when all is strained, fill a well washed and clean champagne bottle with it; cork it up, letting the liquid reach nearly as far up as the cork, and put it on ice to keep. (370). FISH BROTH WITH CLAMS (Bouillon de Poisson aux Lucines Orangées). Heat two ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it two ounces of minced onions, an ounce of carrots, two ounces of turnips and two leeks. Fry colorless, then put in two pounds of the heads and bones of fish and moisten it to its height with water, adding an ounce of celery, one tomato, a little thyme, bay leaf, parsley and salt. Cover and cook for twenty-five minutes, then strain through a sieve, return it once more to the saucepan adding a quart of clams and their juice; boil, strain again through a fine sieve, taste and serve in cups. (371). FROG BROTH AND PUREE (Bouillon de Grenouilles et Purée). Mince half a pound of celery, carrots, turnips, and leeks; fry them without letting them acquire a color in two ounces of butter, then moisten with two quarts of chicken broth or water, and add a pound of frog's legs and hind parts, half an ounce of chervil, and two ounces of lettuce, both cut very fine. Boil all slowly for three quarters of an hour, season with a little salt and sugar, then strain through a napkin and serve in cups. For the Purée, pound the frog meat and add to it four ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and then squeezed out. When all is well pounded, dilute with the same quantity of broth as above, and strain through a tammy; a little butter and milk may be added to advantage; this purée should be served in a clear state in cups. (372). HERB BROTH (Bouillon aux Herbes). Four ounces of lettuce, one ounce of chervil, one and a half ounces of sorrel, all well washed, and cut up fine. Put these into a saucepan on the fire, with a little butter, stirring occasionally; when lightly cooked moisten with two quarts of white chicken broth (No. 188) , or its equal volume of water. Let cook for fifteen minutes, adding one and a half ounces of butter and a little salt. Serve this in cups, either plain or with sippets of toasted bread or else with rice, semolina, etc. (373). CHICKEN AND CALF'S FOOT JELLY (Gelée de Volaille et de Pieds de Veau). Bone six calves ' feet, blanch, and refresh them in cold water; put them in a saucepan with six pounds of round bottom of veal, four large fowls, after removing the breasts, two knuckles of veal and sixteen quarts of water. Boil, then skim, and season with salt and pepper, adding a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, bay leaf, and two cloves of garlic, a little celery, three onions, one having two cloves in it, four carrots, and eight leeks; boil constantly until perfectly cooked from six to eight hours, and test the jelly to see whether it be firm enough, by putting a little on a plate on ice; if too gelatinous, then add a little water. Strain through a fine sieve, and remove the fat. For Clarification. -Chop fine the chicken breasts, mix in with eight egg-whites, diluted with a little white broth, or half a bottleful of white wine; mix in the jelly gradually with the eggs, and put it back on the fire, stirring it constantly with a whisk, and when on the point of boiling remove it from the range, and strain through a flannel bag, restraining until it flows clear. (374). MEAT AND CALF'S FOOT JELLY (Gelée de Viandes et de Pieds de Veau). Bone eight calves ' feet, blanch, cook, and put them into a saucepan with six pounds of round bottom or shoulder of veal, six pounds of legs of beef, two veal knuckles and sixteen quarts of water. Boil, skim and add salt, whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, garlic, bay leaf and celery, three onions, one with four cloves in it, some medium carrots and eight leeks. Boil unceasingly until the meats are well done, (from six to eight hours), then strain through a sieve and skim off the fat. Set a little of it on some ice to see whether it is sufficiently gelatinous, and if too consistent add a little veal broth, then proceed to clarify the jelly as follows: Chop up very fine two pounds of lean veal, mixing with it half a pint of egg-white, diluted with half a bottle of white wine or a little water, and mix the jelly stock gradually with this meat, put it back on the fire, stir continually with a whip and when ready to boil, remove and add half a bottleful of Madeira wine, pour the jelly into a flannel jelly bag, restraining it until it be perfectly clear. For calves ' feet jelly and Madeira wine ( gelée de pieds de veau au madère) see No. 104. (375) MUTTON BROTH (Bouillon de Mouton). Cut into pieces four pounds of very fresh neck of mutton free of fat; put these into a saucepan. Prepare two ounces of carrots, four ounces of turnips, two ounces of celery, four ounces of leeks, a few sprigs of parsley, and a little thyme; fry colorless, the turnips, celery, carrots, and leeks in a quarter of a pound of butter; moisten with four quarts of water or stock, season well and let boil slowly during one hour and a half; remove all the fat from the surface, strain it through a napkin and serve it in cups. Another way is to wash in cold water three pounds of very fresh neck of mutton, cut into pieces; put this into a saucepan with two and a half quarts of water, boil, skim, then add three quarters of a pound of minced turnips, a few parsley stalks, and a few thyme leaves, seasoning with salt. Boil slowly for two hours, remove all the fat, strain it through a fine sieve and serve. Some pearl barley cooked separately in water or broth may be added to either. If the broth needs to be clarified, then chop up half a pound of lean mutton and mix in with it one raw egg; dilute with a little broth or water, and put it into the mutton broth, stir it up quickly, and place the whole on the fire so that it barely simmers, and when clear, strain through a napkin. (376). MULLED EGG AND ALMOND MILK THICKENED WITH RICE FLOUR (Lait de Poule et Lait d'Amandes, Lié à la Farine de riz). Break two very fresh eggs into a bowl, dilute them gradually with two gills of boiling water, adding some powdered sugar and a little orange flower-water; mix thoroughly and drink very hot. Thickened Almond Milk. -A quarter of a pound of peeled fresh almonds and four bitter ones; pound them in a mortar, adding gradually half a pint of water, sugar, and one pint of milk. Press this well through a napkin, warm it up without boiling and thicken it with half an ounce of rice-flour diluted with half a pint of cold water; return it to the fire and remove at the first boil. (377). BEEF JUICE (Jus de Bœuf). In order to obtain a pint of beef juice it will take about five pounds of meat free from all fat and nerves; cut it into about five-eighth of an inch thick slices; broil them nicely, not too rare or too well done, and after taking them from the broiler, cut them up into five-eighth inch squares, and press them well in the press shown in Fig. 70, to extract all their juice; when it is all well pressed out, strain it through a fine sieve or napkin, remove all the fat from the surface and serve in small cups. (378). PURÉE OF BARLEY WITH CHICKEN BROTH (Purée d'Orge au Bouillon de Volaille). Soak two ounces of pearl or other barley in cold water for twelve hours; wash it, then lay it in a saucepan and cover it well with four quarts of chicken bouillon (No. 188) ; boil and add more as the broth diminishes, boil until the barley bursts; continue to cook until the broth is thickened by the soluble parts of the barley, it takes about three hours to cook the barley; then strain forcibly and serve. A little butter and milk may be added if desired; serve in cups. (379). PURÉE OF CHICKEN, PARTRIDGE, GROUSE OR ROEBUCK (Purée de Poulet, Perdreau, Tétras ou Chevreuil). Raise the fillets from a roast chicken or from either two partridges or two grouse, or else one pound of the saddle of roasted venison, pound them, add four ounces of bread-crumbs, previously soaked in chicken or game broth and squeezed thoroughly, pound again and dilute this purée with simply lightly salted chicken or game broth, free of any spices, aromatics or vegetables. Strain through a sieve and warm it up without boiling, adding two ounces of butter, stirring it in well; moisten with either chicken or game broth, letting it remain sufficiently liquid so as to be easily drank from cups. (380). PURÉE OF OATMEAL OR WHEATEN GRITS (Purée d'Avenas ou de Blé). Put four quarts of water or broth into a saucepan, let boil, and dredge in a shower while stirring one pound either of oatmeal or wheat en grits; let cook for thirty minutes, pass it through a tammy, and add either more water or some broth, so as to obtain a clear purée fit to be drank easily from a cup, without using a spoon; a little salt and butter may be added. (381). SABAYON OF CHICKEN OR GAME (Sabayon de volaille ou de Gibier). Put eight egg-yolks into a high and narrow bain-marie; dilute them with one pint of chicken or game broth, and place the bain-marie saucepan on a slow fire or in boiling water, then stir well with a whip or wooden beater until the sabayon becomes thick and frothy; as soon as it is done serve it very hot in cups. A little sherry added to the broth is considered an improvement by some. (382). BEEF, MUTTON, CHICKEN, OR VEAL TEA (Thé de Bœuf, Mouton, Poulet ou Veau). Two pounds of lean meat free from nerves and skin, either beef, mutton, chicken, or veal, taken from the thighs or any other juicy parts. Cut the meat into small quarter of inch squares, set them in a saucepan and pour over three pints of cold water, with a little salt added. Boil, skim, and keep near boiling point for one hour, then strain through a sieve or napkin and serve in cups. Another way is to fill up champagne bottles with the meat, put half a gill of water in each, tie down the cork with a string or wire, boil for three hours, uncork and pass through a napkin. (383). VEAL BROTH, REFRESHING (Bouillon de Veau, Rafraîchissant). Mince up four ounces of carrots, four ounces of turnips, four leeks, and two celery roots; fry them in two ounces of butter, letting them attain a light color, then add ten pounds of split knuckle of veal, and moisten it all with water until well covered, then boil and skim; add salt and let boil continually for two hours. Chop very fine two pounds of bottom round of veal, free of fat, sinews and skin; to this add one whole egg diluted with a little water or cold broth, pour it gradually into the veal broth and clarify it by beating with a whip; return to the fire to boil slowly and continuously for three-quarters of an hour, adding one ounce of chervil, two ounces of lettuce, and two ounces of wild chiccory, all well washed and cut up fine. Boil again for twenty or thirty minutes, then strain either through a fine sieve or napkin. (384). WHEAT, OATS, OR BARLEY BROTH (Bouillon de Blé, d'Avoine ou d'Orge). Wash half a pound of either of these in several waters, then leave to soak for twelve hours; parboil them in plenty of water, and afterward cook them slowly in white chicken bouillon (No. 188) . When done and the grain crushes easily between the fingers, strain and press it well to extract all the insides. Half a pound of wheat should produce two quarts of liquid. To be served in cups. SAUCES. STOCKS, ESSENCES, AND AUXILIARIES. (385). DUXELLE, OR COOKED FINE HERBS (Duxelle ou Fines Herbes Cuites). Put four ounces of scraped fat pork and butter into a saucepan, and when well melted add to it six ounces of either chopped or one-eighth of inch pieces of shallot, a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, let these ingredients fry without coloring, adding half a pound of raw, finely chopped mushrooms; set it on the fire, and reduce while stirring continuously until the moisture from the mushrooms be entirely evaporated, then add an ounce of chopped parsley washed and pressed out; an ounce of chopped truffles may be added, but this is optional. If it needs to be thickened add to it half a pint of demi-glaze sauce (No. 400) , and reduce until it acquires a consistency. (386). ESSENCES AND FUMET (Essences et Fumet). "A sauce is thick, essence is not. Essence is an extract from the most nutritious parts of meat. Fumet, or flavor, is a steam which rises from certain cooked or raw meats, imparting a most agreeable smell and taste, it is the same preparation as essences, but less watery and reduced with Madeira. " -BESHERELLE. (387). CHICKEN ESSENCE (Essence de Volaille). Fry one pound of sliced kernel of veal and a pound and a half of broken chicken bones in some butter without coloring them, adding two minced shallots, half a pound of minced carrots, and four ounces of onions. Moisten with one quart of white chicken bouillon (No. 188) and reduce to glaze; moisten again and reduce once more, then add a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, four cloves and half a bottleful of white wine; boil, skim, and cook slowly for half an hour, then strain through a napkin or silk sieve. (388). FISH ESSENCE (Essence de Poisson). Cut in slices two pounds of bass, porgies or any other bony, and very fresh fish; put them into a saucepan and season with salt, whole peppers and half a pint of white wine. Fry lightly in butter without attaining a color, three ounces of minced onions, three ounces of carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and the same of thyme, two cloves and two shallots; add all these to the fish with one quart of water, and cook slowly for forty minutes, then strain through a fine sieve. (389). GAME ESSENCE (Essence de Gibier). Have two pounds of young rabbit and the same quantity of raw pheasant, and put them into a saucepan with two chopped shallots, two ounces of mushrooms and two ounces of carrots, the mushrooms and carrots being either cut in quarter inch squares or minced; a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic and six cloves. Moisten with one quart of veal blond (No. 422) , and half a bottle of white wine, also a quart and a half of broth; boil all slowly, skim and let simmer for one hour, then strain the essence through a silk sieve. (390). HAM ESSENCE (Essence de Jambon). Fry in butter and color lightly, one pound of sliced, smoked or un smoked ham, add to it two ounces of minced onions, and four ounces of carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with the same quantity of bay leaf as thyme, and moisten with half a pint of white wine; reduce this in a covered saucepan, moisten again with one quart of veal blond (No. 422) , and let boil and simmer for forty minutes, then skim and strain through a napkin or fine silk sieve. (391). HOT ASPIC -ESSENCE (Essence d'Aspic Chaude). Put into a saucepan, half a gill of vinegar, a few bits of tarragon, a bunch of parsley, a quarter of a pound of minced ham and a coffeespoonful of mignonette, a little mace; let all simmer for fifteen minutes, then moisten with half a pint of veal blond (No. 422), and a pint and a half of consommé (No. 189) ; reduce it all to half, strain it through a sieve and clarify with one egg-white; press the aspic through a napkin and use it for roast poultry. Thickened Aspic. -Before clarifying, add its equal quantity of espagnole, and reduce it to the consistency of a sauce, despumate the surface and strain through a tammy. (392). MUSHROOM ESSENCE (Essence de Champignons). Put one pound of mushrooms previously washed and cut in four into a saucepan with the juice of half a lemon, salt, and a pint of broth; let boil together for ten minutes; cover the saucepan hermetically and let stand till cold; strain through a fine sieve. (393). ROOT ESSENCE (Essence de Racines). Have half a pound each of vegetables such as carrots, onions, turnips, parsnips, parsley root and celery; wash them well, and mince them up very fine, then fry them lightly in three ounces of butter and moisten with a quart and a half of water and half a bottle of white wine; let cook slowly for one hour, remove all the fat and scum, then strain through a napkin or silk sieve. (394). ESSENCE OF TAME OR WILD DUCKS (Essence de Canards Domestiques ou Sauvages). This is made with the fragments of six roasted duck bones, broken up and put into a saucepan with one pint of mirepoix stock, one quart of veal blond (No. 422) , a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf and thyme, mignonette and nutmeg. Let simmer for one hour, then add the juice of an orange and a lemon, also their peels; strain through a napkin or a silk sieve. (395). TRUFFLE ESSNECE (Essnece de Truffes). Brush and peel two pounds of fresh truffles; put them into a saucepan with half a bottle of Madeira wine and a pint of broth (No. 187) , add two ounces of celery, as much carrots and as much onions, all minced up very fine, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt and ground pepper. Cover the saucepan and allow the truffles to boil slowly for twenty minutes. Then let them get cold in their broth, keeping the cover hermetically closed. Strain through a napkin or fine sieve. (396). RAW FINE HERBS (Fines Herbes Crues). Composed of parsley, chervil, tarragon, fennel, chives and pimpernel, picked, washed, thoroughly drained and each one chopped up separately; onions and shallots cut in very small dice or else chopped are considered the same as fine herbs. (The parsley, onions and shallot may be blanched by tying them in a small muslin bag, and plunging into boiling water, then refreshing them several times, afterward extracting all the water they contain.) (397). FUMET OF PARTRIDGE OR OTHER GAME (Fumet de Perdreaux ou d'autres Gibiers). Cut four ounces of onions into slices, put them into a well buttered saucepan with four ounces of sliced carrots, and lay on top eight ounces of sliced ham, four ounces of mushroom parings, two pounds of young rabbit and two pounds of partridge, add a pint of white wine and reduce to a glaze; moisten with a quart of broth (No. 187) , cover the saucepan, and let boil and reduce on a brisk fire, moderating the heat when the liquid is reduced to three-quarters, then continue reducing until it has fallen again to a glaze. Add four quarts of game broth (No. 195) , a tablespoonful of allspice (whole), a bunch of parsley garnished with celery, bay leaf, and thyme, and let cook for an hour and a half. Strain this through a napkin, put it back on the fire to clarify with two partridge breasts and one pound of lean veal, both well chopped; dilute it with half a bottle of white wine, stir well, and take it off the fire at the first boil; as soon as the fumet is very clear, strain it through a napkin. (398). CHICKEN OR GAME GLAZE (Glace de Volaille ou de Gibier). To the chicken stock, set apart to prepare a glaze, some good veal stock (No. 423) may be added, operating the same for a game stock, to which put in parts of both veal and chicken; the process is always the same; it is especially during the shooting season that excellent game glaze can be prepared with all the smaller parts and bones of large game. Prepare an ordinary broth, obtaining it as clear as possible, strain, skim off the fat and let it deposit its sediment. Collect all the good meat from the large game, such as thighs, shoulders or breasts of hare or deer, also from old partridges, and the pinions and giblets from the pheasants or partridges. Make a mirepoix of roots, and minced onions, put with it all the above meats, also a piece of the shoulder, breast of veal; their white fragments, or those of chickens, and fry them for a few minutes; moisten them moderately with some broth (No. 187) , and let this fall to a glaze, then moisten again abundantly with the prepared game broth, adding a few boned and parboiled calves ' feet; as soon as the meat is done, drain well; strain and skim the liquid; let it settle so as to be able to pour off the clear top and reduce this once more. (399). FISH GLAZE (Glace de Poisson). Put into a saucepan six pounds of bass, four of soles, and two of codfish; moisten with fourteen quarts of water and one quart of white wine; boil, skim, and season with salt, cloves, whole allspice, two cloves of garlic, half a pound of onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme. Let simmer for one hour, then strain through a napkin, and redue to a quarter of its quantity, then set it away in a bowl to get cold; turn it out, and cut off the top, leaving the sediment at the bottom, then put it back on the fire, and reduce to the consistency of a thick syrup. (400). CLEAR HALF GLAZE (Demi-Glace Claire). This demi-glaze must not be confused with demi-glaze sauce. The demi-glaze is not a sauce but simply good, clarified gelatinous gravy reduced to half the consistency of a glaze; which means only slightly thickened; it must be bright, clear, and succulent. Before taking it from the fire mix in with it a spoonful of Madeira wine for each two quarts of liquid. (401). MEAT GLAZE, CLEAR (Glace de Viande Claire). Have a stockpot sufficiently large to contain four pounds of knuckle of veal, eight pounds of shoulder of veal, six pounds of shin or leg of beef, and add to these sixteen quarts of water and a very little salt; boil, skim, and garnish with a pound and a half of onions, one of them containing four cloves, two pounds of carrots cut in quarters, a bunch of eight medium sized leeks, with a few branches of celery, and a bouquet made of two ounces of parsley leaves, three bay leaves and as much thyme; bring to a boil, skim as fast as the fat and white particles rise to the surface, and boil in this manner for eight hours, then strain it through a sieve, and reduce down to two quarts. Put this into a tin can having a tube half an inch in diameter, a quarter of its height from the bottom, and plugged with a tight cork; cork well and tie it firmly down, then put it on to boil in water for one hour, remove it from the water, and keep it in a warm place for three days to settle, then take out the top, then the lower cork, and receive the glaze as it falls in an earthern vessel. This glaze should be very clear; suppress the bottom, and use it in sauces etc., or else add it to the spanish sauce stocks. (402). MEAT GLAZE, PLAIN (Glace de Viande Simple). To Prepare Meat Glaze. -In the every day work of a kitchen, the meat glaze is always prepared either with the superfluous stocks or remoistening broths; it is a very easy matter to accomplish this. Skim off the fat from all surplus stocks, and then strain them; should they be troubled, clarify with a little lean beef operating the sauce as for consommé. After the liquid is once strained, set it into one or several saucepans, pouring it off steadily from the sediment, and reduce the liquid quickly, while stirring it in the saucepan with a ladle, until it becomes slightly thick; now pour it into a smaller saucepan, and leave it to boil on one side of the fire, while skimming, until the glaze is quite thick, then pour it into cans and let it get cold in a cool place to use when needed. (403). ROOT GLAZE (Glace de Racines). Put into a saucepan two pounds of carrots cut in big squares, as many onions, one pound of celery roots, and three pounds of turnips; season with a little salt, four cloves, one teaspoonful of whole allspice, and moisten with twelve quarts of water, adding four pounds of split knuckle of veal, and two pounds of the kernel, also a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme and bay leaf; let cook slowly for four hours, then strain the whole through a fine sieve; return it to the fire, despumate well all the white and fat particles from the surface; let it continue to boil till the consistency of a thick syrup is obtained, then put it away to use when needed. (404). CLEAR GRAVY (Jus Clair). Butter the interior of a saucepan, cover the bottom with slices of onions, and lay on top some slices of un smoked ham, add six pounds of split knuckle of veal, four pounds of beef and its bones, two pounds of parings of a roasted leg of mutton, with its bones broken, and four pounds of roasted chicken carcasses. Moisten with one quart of broth (No. 421) , set it on the range, cover, and reduce on a moderate fire until the gravy becomes perfectly clear and falls to a glaze, remoisten with eight quarts of remoistening (No. 189) , so that all the ingredients are covered, then boil, skim and season with salt, whole peppers, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as much thyme, a clove of garlic and four cloves, let the whole cook for four hours, then strain through a fine sieve, skim off the fat and reduce to half, and then clarify it with one pound each of veal and beef chopped up together. After the gravy is clear, strain it through a napkin and it is now ready for use. A gravy may be made by remoistening espagnole sauce stock (No. 421) , and adding to it some roast beef bones, chicken carcasses, etc. (405). THICK GRAVY (Jus Lié). Cut into square pieces, six pounds of a shoulder of veal, put them into a saucepan with half a pound of melted lard to fry on a moderate fire, turning over repeatedly with a spoon; a quarter of an hour later put in one pound of cut up carrots and four ounces of onions; continue to fry the meats from twelve to fifteen minutes longer. Now moisten them with the value of one pint of remoistening (No. 189) , cover the saucepan and let the liquid reduce until it has fallen to a glaze without allowing it to burn; moisten the meats again with eight quarts of hot broth and half a bottleful of white wine; skim the liquid at the first boil, then remove it to the side of the range and throw in a ham bone, a partly roasted chicken weighing four pounds, also a few chicken giblets, add a few whole spices and a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatic herbs. When the meats are about three-quarters done, skim the fat from the gravy and thicken with flour dissolved in cold water, two tablespoonfuls for each quart of liquid; continue to boil while skimming off more fat, and half an hour after, pour it through a sieve into another saucepan, let it come to a boil, then set it on one side of the fire to despumate for twenty-five minutes, stirring in at intervals a few spoonfuls of broth. Skim, remove the fat once more, and strain the gravy into a vessel leaving it to get cold, while stirring it from time to time. (406). MATIGNON (Matignon). Cut half a pound of carrots, half a pound of onions, half a pound of celery root and two ounces of parsley root into either three-sixteenth inch squares or small Julienne; fry them lightly without coloring in half a pound of chopped up fat pork, and add to them half a pound of ham cut either in squares or Julienne shape, also a quarter of a pound of mushrooms, a few branches of parsley (about half an ounce), two bay leaves, as much thyme and a teaspoonful of mignonette; moisten with a pint of white wine and a pint of veal blond (No. 423) ; boil and reduce the moisture to a glaze. (407). ALLEMANDE SAUCE (Sauce Allemande). Allemande sauce is made by reducing some velouté (No. 415) , incorporating a little good raw cream slowly into it. When the sauce is succulent and creamy thicken it with a thickening of several raw egg-yolks, then boil the sauce for one minute to cook the eggs, pressing against the bottom of the pan with a spatula, strain it through a tammy into a vessel. Stir it from time to time until cold. (408). ALLEMANDE SAUCE WITH MUSHROOM ESSENCE (Sauce Allemande à l'Essence de Champignons). After the velouté (No. 415) sauce is reduced in a flat saucepan with a fifth part of mushroom essence (No. 392) , thicken with twelve egg-yolks, some nutmeg and two ounces of butter, incorporate slowly a part of the sauce into the thickening, then pour the whole into the sauce, adding the juice of one lemon. Set the saucepan on the fire, stir at the bottom with a spatula, boil the sauce for one minute, then strain through a tammy; pour it in a high saucepan and set it in a bain-marie, and cover it with a little white stock (No. 422) to prevent the surface from drying or set it away in a vessel for further use. (409). BÉCHAMEL SAUCE (Sauce Béchamel). This is made by preparing a roux of butter and flour, and letting it cook for a few minutes while stirring, not allowing it to color in the slightest; remove it to a slower fire and leave it to continue cooking for a quarter of an hour, then dilute it gradually with half boiled milk, and half veal blond (No. 423) . Stir the liquid on the fire until it boils, then mingle in with it a mirepoix of roots and onions (No. 419) , fried separately in butter, some mushroom peelings and a bunch of parsley; set it on a slower fire and let cook for twenty-five minutes without ceasing to stir so as to avoid its adhering to the bottom; it must be rather more consistent than light. Strain it through a fine sieve then through a tammy into a vessel, and allow it to cool off while continuing to stir; set it aside for further use. (410). CHICKEN BÉCHAMEL (Béchamel de Volaille). Lift the breasts from two chickens, bone the rest of them and cut the meats into three-eighth inch squares; cut up also one pound of lean veal the same size. Put half a pound of butter into a saucepan with four ounces of onions cut into three-sixteenth inch squares; fry slowly without letting them attain a color, then add the chicken and veal, and when all are well fried, throw in half a pound of flour; stir well and let the flour cook for a few minutes, then moisten with four quarts of chicken bouillon (No. 188) ; season with salt, mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, then let boil and simmer for one hour and a half, skim off the fat and scum carefully. Strain the béchamel through a fine sieve and then a tammy, and, to reduce it, add one quart of cream, and when the sauce covers the spoon, pass again through the tammy into a vessel; stir from time to time until it gets cold. (411). LEAN BÉCHAMEL WITH CREAM (Béchamel Maigre à la Crème). Put ten ounces of butter in a saucepan with half a pound of onions cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, half a pound of carrots cut in quarter inch squares and a quarter of a pound of celery root cut the same; fry the whole on a slow fire, adding a quarter of a pound of flour. Let cook for a few minutes, then moisten with two quarts of boiled milk; stir with a spatula until boiling point; add a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, season with salt and whole peppers, and let cook slowly for one hour, then skim off the fat and reduce the sauce by adding to it gradually one pint of cream; strain the whole into a high saucepan through a tammy (No. 159) and keep warm in a bain-marie, setting a few pats of fresh butter on top. (412). BÉCHAMEL WITH MUSHROOM ESSENCE (Béchamel à l'Essence de Champignons). Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, add to it two ounces of onions cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, a quarter of a pound of lean veal cut in three-eighth inch squares, two ounces of carrots cut in one-quarter inch squares and two ounces of un smoked ham cut in one-quarter inch squares, also a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, and let these fry on a moderate fire; drain off the butter, and add four quarts of velouté (No. 415) , seasoning with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, then cook the whole for one hour, afterward straining it through a tammy, and reduce it with one quart of essence of mushrooms (No. 392) . Strain it again through the tammy and just when ready to use, incorporate into it half a pound of fine, fresh butter. (413). HALF-GLAZE SAUCE, THICKENED (Sauce demi-glace liée). A half glaze sauce only differs from an espagnole by its lightness. This sauce is generally made in large quantities at the time, so as not to begin it so frequently, as it requires the utmost care in its preparation. Heat in a saucepan one pound of clarified butter, and when it is very hot fill it up with flour so as to obtain a paste rather too light than otherwise; thicken it well while stirring for a few minutes on the fire, and then set it aside in a warm part to cook and brown very slowly, without adhering to the bottom of the pan, and without letting it get black. Five or six hours after, pour it into a vessel, cover it with paper, and let this roux stand to get cool. To make the Sauce : dilute the roux very slowly, with some beef stock (No. 194a), having it only slightly warm, and prepared for this purpose, and finish it exactly like the espagnole; it must be as clear as possible and of a light color; strain and skim it well. Stir the liquid over the fire to thicken the sauce, managing not to have any lumps in it, and should it not be perfectly smooth, then strain it through a fine colander Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it four ounces each of sliced carrots, onions and celery root; the same quantity of lean ham cut in quarter inch squares, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaves, thyme and allspice, fry without coloring, pour the sauce over the whole, add four gills of good white, dry wine, and a quarter of a pound of mushroom parings, and let all boil while stirring, then remove it at once to the side of the range, and continue boiling on one side only, so as to be able to despumate it properly for several hours. Strain and put as much of this as is needed into a reducing saucepan with two gills of meat glaze (No. 401) ; boil, reduce it to the necessary degree, using a spatula to stir it from the bottom, without leaving it for one instant, incorporate slowly into it a little good veal blond (No. 423) and a small quantity of good white wine. When the sauce is succulent without being too thick, strain it through a tammy and pour it into a vessel, or else into a saucepan to keep warm in a bain-marie. Clear Half-Glaze Thickened. -Have a quart of well-reduced clear stock (No. 404) ; put it on the fire to boil, add six tablespoonfuls and skim it carefully, adding two tablespoonfuls of fecula, arrowroot, or cornstarch, diluted in a little cold water, pouring it slowly into the stock while stirring it with a whip; boil again, skim and strain through a fine sieve; set it in a bain-marie and cover the top with some Madeira wine. (414). BROWN, ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE (Sauce Brune Espagnole). Espagnole or Spanish sauce is a leading sauce from which many smaller ones are made. To obtain a good espagnole, it is necessary to have good stock (No. 421) ; in case there be no stock specially prepared for this purpose, use good clear broth. For four quarts of stock, melt in a saucepan one pound of butter, stir into it the same weight of very dry, good flour, so as to obtain a clear paste; then let it cook for four or five minutes on the fire, without ceasing to stir, and afterward set it back on to a very slow fire, or in a slack oven, to let it get a good dark brown color, being careful to move it about often. When the roux is cooked, take it from the oven and dilute with the prepared stock, not having it too hot, and stir the liquid again over the fire to bring it to a boil. Should the sauce not be sufficiently smooth -should any lumps appear in it, then strain it through a fine sieve, and put it back into the saucepan; and at the first boil, set it on one side so that it only boils partially, and let it despumate in this way for two or three hours. Skim off well the fat, and strain the broth into a vessel to let get cold, meanwhile stirring frequently. (415). VELOUTÉ SAUCE (Sauce Veloutée). The velouté like the espagnole is also a leading sauce used for making secondary sauces. Melt three-fourths of a pound of butter in a small saucepan; stir into it three-fourths of a pound of good flour, and let the roux cook for a few minutes, then set the saucepan on a slower fire without letting it color; in order to obtain a well thickened sauce, the flour must be well cooked. When the roux is sufficiently done dilute it gradually with four quarts of good stock (No. 423) . In case there be no special stock prepared for this sauce then use some good clear chicken stock (No. 195) . Stir the liquid over the fire until it comes to a boil, then move it aside to let it cook on one side only; despumate the sauce for one hour, skimming off all the white particles arising to the surface; remove all the fat, and strain the velouté through a sieve into a vessel and let it get cool while lifting off the scum that forms on the top. (416). VELOUTÉ AND BROWN, ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE FOR LEAN (Sauce Veloutée et Espagnole en Mai gre). The lean veloute or the lean Spanish sauce are made the same way as the fat (Nos. 414 and 415) , or using fish stock (No. 417) ; for lean velouté the stock must be reduced to a glaze without coloring. (417). FISH STOCK FOR LEAN ESPAGNOLE AND VELOUTÉ SAUCE (Fond de Poisson pour Sauce Espagnole et Sauce Veloutée en Maigre). Butter the bottom of a sixteen-quart thick bottomed saucepan, and cover it with a layer of sliced onions, and on top of these four pounds of bony fish or else fish bones cut into pieces; moisten with one pint of water and set it on a brisk fire, covering the saucepan, and let it reduce to a glaze. Moisten again with one pint of white wine and four quarts of boiling water; skim off the fat and add a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, as much thyme, and half a pound of minced carrots and four ounces of celery, two cloves of garlic, and then let cook slowly for two hours; strain the whole through a fine sieve and use this stock for diluting the roux. (418). BRAISE STOCK FOR BRAISING MEATS (Fond de Braise). Cover the bottom of a saucepan with bardes of fat pork, one pound of minced onions, one pound of minced carrots, and on top place either a leg of mutton, a piece of poultry, a tenderloin of beef or a kernel of veal. Moisten to the height of the meat with some beef stock (No. 194) , add a bunch of parsley containing a bay leaf and as much thyme, a clove of garlic and two cloves; season with salt and whole peppers, and after it has cooked, strain it through a fine sieve, and return the stock to the braised meats to simmer until it is reduced to half. This braise may be replaced by a mirepoix stock for braising meats. (419). MIREPOIX STOCK AND DRY MIREPOIX (Fond de Mirepoix et Mirepoix Sèche). This is the essence of meats and vegetables. Put into a saucepan half a pound of chopped fat pork, fry it until melted, and then add half a pound of butter, one pound of lean veal cut in three-eighths of an inch squares, and one pound of un smoked ham, also a pound of carrots and six ounces of onions cut in quarter inch squares, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as much thyme, some basil, a clove of garlic, two cloves, and mace. Add to this a few mushroom parings, season with a little salt and mignonette, and when all the ingredients are well fried and of a fine golden color, moisten them with three quarts of remoistening (No. 189) , and one pint of white wine, and a pint of Madeira wine; boil the whole slowly for two hours, then strain it forcibly through a tammy (No. 159) without removing the fat. Mirepoix is used for moistening meats, fishes, etc. Dry Mirepoix is made of minced, raw vegetables, and roots which are fried in lard and moistened with some good stock and white wine, and allowed to reduce to dryness. It is employed to cover the breasts of fowl, game, and also meats that are to be roasted on the spit. (420). POêLER STOCK FOR COOKING FOWL OR WHITE GAME MEAT (Fond de Poêle pour Cuire la Volaille et le Gibier Blanc). Poêler. -Consists in cooking fowls or white game meat, the breasts of which are covered with slices of peeled lemon, then barded and cooked in a rich stock having it reach to half their heighth. To make the stock cut up one pound of fat pork, and half a pound of un smoked ham into quarter inch squares; one pound of carrots and as many onions, both minced, a garnished bouquet of bay leaf and as much thyme, fry the whole lightly in half a pound of butter, adding a bunch of basil garnished with two cloves, mace, and a clove of garlic; moisten all with two quarts of veal blond (No. 423) , add salt, ground pepper. (421). BROWN, ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE STOCK (Fond pour Sauce Brune Espagnole). Butter the bottom of a thick bottomed saucepan and garnish it with slices of onions, placing on top half a pound of ham, some slices or parings of fat pork, twelve pounds of knuckle of veal, shoulder, and trimmings, six pounds of beef or parings, and moisten with one quart of beef stock (No. 194a) ; leave the saucepan on the fire until the broth is half reduced, then cover the saucepan and moderate the fire, continue to boil till all the moisture is reduced and falls to a glaze, which is easily perceived as the grease then becomes clear; moisten it once more with eighteen quarts of beef stock; boil, skim off the fat, and add a bunch of parsley, garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, basil, celery, and two cloves of garlic, also one pound of carrots cut lengthwise in four, salt, ground pepper, and a little sugar. Cook all together for six hours, skim off the fat and strain through a sieve to keep for further use. This stock is used for moistening brown roux. (422). VELOUTÉ STOCK (Fond pour Velouté). Butter the bottom of a sixteen quart saucepan, having a thick bottom, cover it with sliced onions and on top of these lay four pounds of knuckle of veal and shoulder, half of each, four pounds of fowl without the breast, and moisten with one pint of remoistening (No. 189) , put it on a brisk fire and cover the saucepan, as soon as the liquid is reduced to half, moderate the fire and let the sauce fall slowly to a glaze without browning, then moisten with six quarts more of white broth, skim off the fat and scum and season with salt, crushed whole peppers and a little sugar, add a bunch of parsley and celery green, garnished with two bay leaves and as much thyme, also half an ounce of basil, besides four ounces of mushroom parings or stalks and half a pound of minced carrots, then let cook for six hours, remove all the fat, add from time to time a little remoistening (No. 189) , salt it to taste and strain through a sieve or a napkin. Use when needed. (423). VEAL BLOND STOCK (Fond de Blond de Veau). Butter the bottom of a saucepan capable of containing sixteen quarts; set in four sliced onions, and on top of these four pounds of split knuckle of veal and four pounds of shoulder of veal, two fowls, after removing the breasts, and moisten all with one quart of beef stock (No. 194a) . Place the saucepan on a brisk fire, keeping the lid on, and reduce the moisture by moderating the heat of the fire, and letting the liquid fall slowly to a glaze; now moisten again with six quarts more of beef stock, season with salt and whole peppers, and add four leeks, two carrots, cut in pieces, a bunch of parsley, some celery, one bay leaf and as much thyme. Cook all slowly for six hours, then skim off the fat and strain through a fine sieve. Chop up the breasts taken from the two fowls with the same quantity of lean beef, and mix this in a little cold water, and with this meat clarify the veal blond the same as consommé; then strain it through a napkin. Veal blond should be clear, succulent and of a nice color, the grease should be thoroughly removed from it; added to clear soups it greatly improves them; it is also used in reducing sauces. HOT SAUCES. (424). AFRICAN SAUCE (Sauce à l'Africaine). Put two ounces of butter into a sautoire and when hot add two ounces of chopped up onions and fry without coloring; moisten with a pint of broth and a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , add a small bunch of parsley garnished with half a bay leaf and as much thyme. Bring the whole to a boil, skim, remove the fat and let cook for half an hour; strain through a tammy and incorporate slowly into the sauce, two ounces of butter, a pinch of cayenne and the juice of a lemon, also a gill of Madeira wine and two ounces of exceedingly fine cut up truffles. (425). ALLEMANDE WITH RED WINE AND FRUITS (Allemande au Vin Rouge et aux Fruits). Cook six ounces of dry black cherries or prunes, cut in four, in two gills of red wine and as much water, add a bit of cinnamon stick, three cloves, and the peel from one lemon; let simmer for twenty minutes on a slow fire, then drain and add to the juice the same quantity of espagnole (No. 414) as there is sauce; reduce, skim, and after the liquid is well reduced, take out the lemon peel, cinnamon, and cloves, then put the cherries back into the sauce and serve. Cherries and prunes may both be used together, half of each. (426). AMERICAN SAUCE (Sauce Américaine). Split open the bodies of two cooked lobsters, take out all the creamy parts, rub them through a sieve, and keep them aside for further use. Wipe well the shells, break them into pieces and chop them up coarsely on the table with the thick end of a knife. Fry in some oil, carrots, celery, parsley, shallots, and minced onions, add to these the chopped shells and let cook all together until their moisture is reduced, then moisten slightly above their height with white wine and mirepoix (No. 419) ; let this liquid boil up for two minutes, then move it on a more moderate fire, and add some thyme, bay leaf, and basil. Let the whole cook from twenty to twenty-five minutes, then strain it forcibly through a sieve into a bowl, and leave it to settle for a quarter of an hour, afterward removing all the fat, pour off the top gently into a sautoire, pressing it through a fine sieve, and let it reduce to a half-glaze. Mix in with it about a third of its quantity of tomato sauce, reduce it once more without ceasing to stir until it becomes short and succulent, by mixing in three or four spoonfuls of sherry wine. Strain it now into another saucepan, work in the butter, and finish with a dash of cayenne pepper, and two spoonfuls of the creamy part from the bodies already strained. This sauce should be served as quickly as it is made; in any way it must be kept stirred until the very last moment. (427). ANCHOVY SAUCES (Sauce aux Anchois). Anchovy Fat Sauce. -Set into a saucepan half a pint of brown poivrade sauce (No. 522) ; the same quantity of espagnole (No. 414), and half a pint of veal blond (No. 423) . Allow the liquid to boil up while stirring continuously, then despumate; just when ready to serve incorporate in two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569) . For Lean Anchovy Sauce. -Clean twelve anchovies, by removing their skin and tails; wash and pound in a mortar; to this pulp add double their quantity of butter, rub through a fine sieve, and incorporate two ounces of this butter into one quart of white sauce (No. 562) ; season, and add a little lemon juice and nutmeg, then strain the whole through a tammy. The anchovy butter can be replaced by essence of anchovies, already prepared in bottles; in this case incorporate in just when prepared to serve, two ounces of fresh butter. (428). APPLE SAUCES (Sauce aux Pommes). Hot with Butter and Gravy. -Peel a pound of sour apples, cut them in quarter inch thick slices, and remove the cores. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a sautéing pan and when hot, throw in the apples and let them fry on both sides until they are a fine color, then moisten with four gills of veal blond (No. 423), and two ounces of brown sugar (or cayenne pepper ) if preferred, and a little grated nutmeg, press the apples through a sieve and serve hot. For Hot or Cold. -Peel and core one pound of sour apples, put them into a saucepan with a pint of water and when done, drain and pass them through a sieve; now add sugar, nutmeg, and an ounce of butter and serve the sauce hot; for the cold suppress the butter. (429). ARGENTINE SAUCE (Sauce Argentine). Put into a sautoir, four tablespoonfuls of oil; set it on the fire and when hot, add two ounces of chopped onions, and a finely shreded green pepper, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and as much thyme; fry the whole without attaining color; then drain off the oil and moisten with one gill of white wine, and two gills of tomato purée (No. 730) ; season, and add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , and three tablespoonfuls of meat glaze; boil the whole, skim carefully, and reduce to a proper consistency; pass through a tammy and serve. (430). AURORA SAUCE, FAT AND LEAN (Sauce à l'Aurore, en Gras et en Maigre). For Fat. -Put into a saucepan half a pint of velouté (No. 415) , with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) , and half a pint of veal blond (No. 423) ; reduce to half, strain through a tammy, heat it up once more and when ready to serve incorporate two ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573) into the sauce. For Lean. -Have in a saucepan one quart of béchamel sauce (No. 409) ; pound four hard boiled egg-yolks with four ounces of lobster butter (No. 580) ; press through a fine sieve, mix the two together adding the juice of a lemon, strain through a tammy and serve hot. (431). BARNAVE SAUCE (Sauce à la Barnave). Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan and when hot add a quarter of a pound of red carrots blanched and the same quantity of onions, both cut into three-sixteenth inch pieces. First fry the onions, then add the carrots and fry together a little, add a garnished bunch of parsley with thyme, a clove of garlic, a pound of game carcasses and when a good color add half a bottle of red wine and a pint of broth. Let all cook for three-quarters of an hour, skim it carefully, strain the sauce through a tammy or sieve, dilute it again with another pint of broth and throw in an ounce of very fresh bread raspings, an ounce of butter and the juice of one orange. (432). BAVAROISE SAUCE (Sauce Bavaroise). Reduce to half its volume one gill of vinegar; take it from the fire and let get cold, then add one gill of béchamel (No. 409) , four raw egg-yolks and four ounces of butter divided into small pats, a gill of water, salt and nutmeg. Stir the preparation over a moderate fire until it thickens, then incorporate into it three ounces of butter, a small bit at a time, working it in well with a whip so as to have it light, add to finish, three ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573) and a tablespoonful of grated horseradish. (433). BÉARNAISE SAUCE, HOT MAYONNAISE, AND WITH TOMATOES (Sauces Béarnaise, Mayonnaise Chaude et aux Tomates). Put into a saucepan one gill of vinegar with two ounces of chopped shallots, also a few tarragon leaves; cover the saucepan with its lid, and reduce the liquid almost completely, then take it from off the fire. Let the vinegar get slightly cold, and afterward mix in with it four raw egg-yolks, season with salt and mignonette, and return it to a slow fire, and then incorporate into it slowly three ounces of clarified butter, stirring it continually in the meanwhile with a small whip; now strain it through a tammy; whip it well, and mix in with it a coffeespoonful of chopped tarragon, and the same quantity of chopped parsley. This sauce should have the consistency of a mayonnaise, and can also be made the same as the above, with half butter and half oil. Hot Mayonnaise. -Is made the same as a béarnaise, only using oil and suppressing the tarragon. Hot Mayonnaise with Tomatoes. -Pour one quart of hot mayonnaise in a deep saucepan, set it either on a slow fire or in a bain-marie, and when it begins to curdle, take it off and beat it up quickly, adding a little cold water; continue the beating process until perfectly smooth, then heat it again stirring vigorously without allowing it to boil, and finish by adding eight tablespoonfuls of well reduced tomato purée (No. 730) , four tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze (No. 401) , and some lemon juice. Strain through a fine sieve, then mix in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a little cold water. (434). BERCHOUX SAUCE (Sauce à la Berchoux). Put into a sautoire one pint of milk and let boil, then add two ounces of fresh bread-crumbs; season with salt, nutmeg, and red pepper and moisten with the quarter of a bottleful of champagne. Now pound a pinch of tarragon with two pinches of chervil, and a quarter of a clove of garlic; when it becomes a pulp add four ounces of fresh butter and a little spinach green to color. Incorporate this butter into the sauce, strain through a fine tammy; if the sauce should be too thick add a little cream. (435). BIGARADE SAUCE (Sauce à la Bigarade). A bigarade orange is a sour orange before it changes to an orange color; peel it without touching the white parts, using a peeling knife ( Fig. 156), cut the peel up into small fine Julienne, plunge it into boiling water, and cook it until it is tender; drain and enclose it in a covered saucepan with four gills of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415) if needed for a white sauce. Just when ready to serve, finish the sauce with a dash of cayenne pepper, meat glaze, the orange juice and the juice of a lemon; strained through a tammy, adding two ounces of fine butter. The bigarade can be replaced by an orange and a lemon, using the peel and juice of both fruits. (436). BORDELAISE SAUCE, WITH MARROW AND MAîTRE D'HôTEL WITH MARROW (Sauce Bordelaise, à la Moelle et Maître d'Hôtel à la Moelle). Bordelaise Sauce. -Put into a saucepan half a bottleful of Bordeaux wine, adding a small garnished bouquet containing a little garlic, half a bay leaf, and two cloves; a quarter of a pound of the peelings and stalks of some chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of blanched shallots lightly fried in three spoonfuls of oil, one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , half a pint of veal blond ( No. 423) , and season with salt, mignonette and cayenne, boil, skim off the fat and then pour in half a bottleful of white wine, and when the sauce is reduced, strain it through a tammy and stir in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; a pound of beef marrow cut in either squares or slices may be added to the bordelaise just when ready to serve. A simpler way is to brown some minced shallots in oil with a clove of crushed garlic, adding red wine and gravy, then reduce it to half, pour in the espagnole, boil, skim off the fat and serve. Bordelaise Sauce with Marrow. -Fry minced shallots in oil with a clove of garlic (crushed); moisten with red wine and reduced gravy, add some espagnole; boil and despumate, then put in squares of beef marrow or else have them cut in slices and plunged into boiling water and drained; add only when ready to serve. Maître d'Hôtel with Marrow. -Have some maître d'hôtel butter (No. 582) , slightly melted, into which add four ounces of shallots for each pound of butter, the shallots being cut into one-eighth inch squares, eight tablespoonfuls of meat glaze or chicken glaze, and add just when ready to serve, slices of marrow previously thrown into boiling water and drained. (437). BOURGUIGNOTTE SAUCE -LEAN (Sauce à la Bourguignotte -Maigre). Cut a pound of eels into slices being careful that they are very fresh; put these into a saucepan with two quarts of water, two ounces of minced onions and two ounces of mushroom parings, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf and as much thyme, two minced shallots, pepper and allspice. Set the saucepan on the fire, let it come to a boil, and continue the boiling for twenty minutes, then strain the liquid and reduce it, adding one pint of lean espagnole sauce (No. 416) , and a little lean broth (No. 417) ; let boil once again, despumate it, pour in a quarter of a bottleful of good white wine; boil and despumate again for half an hour, then add another quarter of a bottle of white wine, making half a bottleful in all; Volnay wine is excellent for this sauce. After it is reduced to a proper consistency, and just when ready to serve, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of crawfish butter (No. 573) . (438). BREAD SAUCES, AMERICAN, ENGLISH, FRENCH, REGLAIN AND GERMAN FRIED (Sauces au Pain, Américaine, Anglaise, Française, Reglain et Frite à l'Allemande). American. -Put into a saucepan one ounce of butter with one ounce of finely chopped onions, fry them lightly without coloring and moisten with a pint of boiling milk, add two ounces of bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne pepper and cloves, and just when ready to serve, add a little cream to finish. This sauce should be consistent and hot without boiling. English is made exactly the same, only replacing the fried onions by a raw onion cut in four, and whole peppers instead of the cayenne. French. -Chop up a shallot and a quarter of a clove of garlic, putting them in a saucepan with two gills of white wine; let simmer and reduce, adding two tablespoonfuls of very fine bread-crumbs, a little fresh butter, a dash of mignonette and grated nutmeg and two gills of broth, let reduce to half, then squeeze in some lemon juice and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. A la Réglain. -Set four gills of milk into a saucepan, adding two ounces of bread-crumbs and one shallot cut in small eighth inch squares, a whole clove of garlic, and let heat without boiling for a few minutes, seasoning with salt, a little cayenne and nutmeg, two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of raw fine herbs, one gill of white wine and the juice of an orange. Fried German. -Melt and heat gradually half a pound of butter so as to obtain a hazel- nut butter, incorporate into it three ounces of white bread-crumbs, cook it over a slow fire for a few minutes without ceasing to stir, salt it lightly and take off the fire to pour into a hot sauce boat. (439). BRETONNE SAUCE (Sauce à la Bretonne). Mince up four ounces of onions, fry them in two ounces of clarified butter, and when fried without attaining a color, drain them and moisten with one gill of veal blond ( No. 423) ; reduce and let fall to a glaze. Add one gill of velouté (No. 415) if for white, and espagnole (No. 414) if for brown; season with salt and pepper, and meat glaze; strain it forcibly through a sieve, and incorporate into the sauce just when ready to serve, half an ounce of fresh butter. For a lean sauce, moisten with some fish stock (No. 417) , and lean velouté or espagnole (No. 416) and fish glaze (No. 399) . (440). BUTTER SAUCE (Sauce au Beurre). Put into a saucepan, two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, dilute it with half a pint of cold water, add some salt and whole peppers, one clove, grated nutmeg, and half an ounce of butter. Set it on the fire, and stir well until it boils; then allow it to cook slowly for fifteen minutes; remove it from the fire, and incorporate into it by degrees, one pound of fresh butter, and the juice of two lemons. If the sauce should become too thick, add a little more water, then strain it through a tammy. With this sauce a quantity of other sauces may be made such as caper, egg, oyster, horseradish, etc. (441). CAPER SAUCE (Sauce aux Câpres). Set into a saucepan two ounces of butter, mix it with one and a half ounces of flour; beat the flour and butter well together with a spoon, so as to obtain a smooth paste; now moisten it with two gills of water, add a pinch of salt, stir the liquid on the fire until the sauce becomes thick. At the first boil, remove it to the side of the range. It should be somewhat more consistent than thin. Incorporate into it gradually, two ounces of butter divided into small pats, the sauce should now be creamy; remove it and finish by adding some small nonpareil capers, and the juice of a lemon; then serve. (442). CARDINAL SAUCES BOTH FAT AND LEAN (Sauce Cardinal pour Gras et Maigre). For Fat. -Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) , with two gills of mushroom essence (No. 392) , or else veal blond (No. 423) , season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; add a tablespoonful of meat, chicken, or game glaze (No. 401) , two ounces of fresh butter, and the juice of one lemon. Serve in a sauce -boat, and dredge over the top chopped-up lobster coral. For Lean. -Soak six carp milts in cold water, cook them for ten minutes in white broth (No. 195) with the juice of one lemon, salt, and half an ounce of fine butter, then drain; put into a saucepan six tablespoonfuls of thick béchamel (No. 409) , add to it a gill of cream; boil, season with salt and cayenne pepper, and beat in one ounce of fresh butter, strain through a tammy, add the milts, and heat them up rolling them in the sauce. Serve in a sauce -boat, dredging the top with some very finely chopped lobster coral. (443). CASTILLANE SAUCE (Sauce à la Castillane). Pour into a saucepan six gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and two gills of veal blond (No. 423) , reduce it to a third, then add a tablespoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers, a very finely shreded green pepper, and a quarter of a pound of raw lean ham cut into small three-sixteenth inch squares, boil all slowly, despumate the sauce, and just when ready to serve squeeze in the juice of a lemon. (444). CELERY SAUCE (Sauce au Céleri). Have half a pound of white celery stalks cut in quarter inch pieces, put them in boiling and salted water for five minutes, drain and place them in a saucepan with a pint of white stock (No. 422) , then reduce it to half, adding a pint of well-reduced velouté (No. 415) , and just when ready to serve, incorporate into it two ounces of fine butter and half a gill of fresh cream, seasoning with salt, nutmeg and red pepper. (445). CHAMPAGNE SAUCE, ALSO WITH CHABLIS, RHINE WINE, SAUTERNE OR GRAVE-WINE (Sauce au Champagne, Chablis, Vin du Rhin, Sauterne ou Grave). The sauces may be made white or brown for a base; for white, using velouté (No. 415), for the brown, having a brown espagnole (No. 414) . Reduce one quart of espagnole with half a pint of mushroom essence (No. 392) , or the liquor in which they have been cooked, also a pint of mirepoix stock (No. 419) , add a pint of champagne or any other wine and reduce once more until the sauce be sufficiently consistent. If made with velouté thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and small pats of butter. (446). CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE (Sauce Chateaubriand). Put into a saucepan one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , with two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) , one pint of veal blond (No. 423) , and reduce it all to half, then strain through a tammy, and just when ready to serve, stir in half a pound of fine butter, the strained juice of a lemon and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. To make it with tarragon put into a saucepan two gills of dry white wine with some chopped shallots and mushroom peelings, and reduce it all to half. Mix in with it six tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401), and finish with three gills of reduced velouté (No. 415) , let it boil for two minutes, then strain; at the last moment mingle in with it three ounces of butter in small pats, working it in well with a small tinned wire whisk; add the strained juice of a lemon and a few finely shreded tarragon leaves. (447). CHERRY SAUCE (Sauce aux Cerises). Lay in a saucepan, half a pound of currant jelly with six cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, two orange peels, one ounce of meat glaze (No. 401) , half a pint of veal blond (No. 423) , one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , one gill of Burgundy, and four ounces of dried and pounded cherries, let all boil together for a few minutes, then add the strained juice of two oranges, mix all together well, and serve. Another way is to have a quarter of a pound of dried black cherries with their pits; soften them in cold water, and pound them in a mortar with three gills of red wine; pour the preparation into an untinned copper vessel, add a small stick of cinnamon, and two cloves, also a piece of lemon peel; let the liquid boil for two minutes, then thicken it with a teaspoonful of fecula diluted with a little cold water; remove it to the side of the fire, cover, and keep it warm without boiling for fifteen minutes, then strain through a sieve and serve. (448). CHERVIL OR PARSLEY PLUCHE SAUCE (Sauce à la Pluche de Cerfeuil ou de Persil). A pluche is the leaves of either parsley or chervil blanched and combined with a sauce or soup. Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) with two gills of white wine; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and the juice of a lemon, and just when serving incorporate into it four ounces of fresh butter. Should the sauce be too thick add a little broth (No. 187) , and then put in a heavy pinch of blanched chervil or parsley leaves. (449). CHIVRY SAUCE (Sauce à la Chivry). Blanch in a red copper untinned vessel a handful of herbs composed of parsley leaves a third; chervil a third; pimpernel a sixth, and tarragon a sixth; drain them and extract well all their moisture, then put them into a mortar with a pinch of chives, pound them finely, adding a piece of butter, and after removing the preparation from the mortar rub it through a sieve, and add to it three gills of reduced velouté (No. 415) and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Color the sauce with a little spinach green or green vegetal coloring. (450). CLERMONT SAUCE (Sauce à la Clermont). Cut six medium onions in two; then remove the stalk and root from both ends giving a sharp slanting blow with the knife, so when they are removed the onions easily fall apart; then mince them up finely. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on the fire, and when it is hot, add the onions, and fry them slowly so that they become a nice golden color, then drain off the butter, and finish cooking with a quart of remoistening (No. 189) ; season with salt, pepper, and sugar, and when the onions are well done, and the stock reduced to half, add to it a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) with two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) ; season nicely and serve. (451). COLBERT, ENGLISH AND TARRAGON SAUCES (Sauce à la Colbert, à l'Anglaise et à l'Estragon). Colbert. -Boil up one gill of meat glaze (No. 401) in a saucepan, remove it from the fire, and then incorporate into it four ounces of fresh butter, working them well together with an egg -whisk, until the butter is thoroughly melted; then add the juice of two lemons, some grated nutmeg, and two tablespoonfuls of good sherry wine; strain through a tammy, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and serve. English. -Put a saucepan on the fire, containing two tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, the same quantity of melted meat glaze (No. 401) ; take it off when it bubbles, then work slowly into it two ounces of anchovy butter, the juice of one lemon, and a little grated nutmeg; strain through a tammy and serve. With Tarragon or Chervil. -Pour a gill of melted meat glaze (No. 401) into a saucepan; at the first boil take it off the fire, and whip in with it a quarter of a pound of butter divided into small pats; finish the sauce with the juice of two lemons, and half a spoonful of tarragon leaves, or else a spoonful of chervil leaves, one or the other finely cut up. (452). CRAB SAUCE (Sauce aux Crabes). Have a pint of white sauce (No. 562) , in a saucepan, add to it a pinch of cayenne pepper and the same quantity of ground mace, also two ounces of crab meat cut in dice, or if possible some oyster crabs blanched in their own oyster juice, and drained. (453). CRAWFISH SAUCE (Sauce aux Écrevisses). Fry in two ounces of butter, one ounce of carrots, one ounce of celery root, one ounce of onions, and one ounce of shallot, a few parsley leaves, thyme, one bay leaf, and one clove of garlic. Moisten with half a bottleful of white wine, and let the whole cook for ten minutes, adding to it twenty-four well washed crawfish, a little salt and mignonette. Cook all together for five minutes, while tossing them up frequently, then take out the crawfish and let the stock settle; pour off gently the top, straining it through a very fine sieve; then reduce it to half and add a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) and half a pint of white wine, and reduce it once more. Shell the crawfish, take the meat from the tails and lay them on one side; pound the remainder with five ounces of butter, heat it, and then pass it through a sieve into a bowl filled with ice water; lift up the butter, wipe it, and incorporate this butter into the sauce; color it with orchanet or else vegetable carmine, and strain it through a sieve. Add the crawfish meat cut in small dice to the sauce, and serve at once. (454). CREAM SAUCE (Sauce à la Crème). Put into a small saucepan, one pint of béchamel (No. 409) , reduce it with two gills of cream; when ready, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; season with salt and a dash of cayenne pepper. (455). CURRANT SAUCE, WITH RED WINE, PORT WINE, CALIFORNIA WINE, WHITE WINE AND WHITE CURRANTS (Sauce Groseilles au vin de Bordeaux, au vin de Porto, au vin de Californie, au vin de Blanc et aux Groseilles Blanches) . Plain currant jelly without being heated may be served with canvasback duck and saddle of venison. But if some people prefer sauce, the following will be found good: Currant Sauce with Red Bordeaux Wine. -Put half a bottle of Bordeaux wine into a saucepan on the fire, and when the wine begins to simmer take it off, and put into it, to infuse, ten cloves, the peel of a lemon and a bit of cinnamon; leave them in for twenty minutes, and then add to it half a pound of currant jelly and two ounces of sugar, more or less, according to taste; dissolve and mix well, and when thoroughly melted, strain the sauce through a sieve and serve it hot. Currant Sauce with Port Wine. -Put half a pound of currant jelly in a saucepan on the fire, dilute it with half a bottleful of port wine and one pint of brown espagnole sauce (No. 414) , and when well dissolved strain through a sieve and serve hot. Currant Sauce with California Wine. -Melt half a pound of currant jelly with half a pint of red California wine, and when well dissolved strain it through a tammy and serve hot. Currant Sauce with White Wine. -Made with half a pound of currant jelly, a pinch of cinnamon, the same of ground cloves, half a bottle of white wine, and a pint of velouté (No. 415) , besides the pulp of one lemon; strain through a sieve and serve hot. White Currant Sauce. -Blanch and strain a pint of picked white currants, mix in with them half a pound of apple with orange jelly, the juice of two lemons and half a pint of velouté (No. 415) . Dissolve with half a pint of white wine; strain through a tammy and serve hot. (456). CURRY SAUCES, INDIAN AND WITH APPLES (Sauces au Kari, à l'Indienne et aux Pommes). Curry. -Brown in some butter four ounces of minced onions, adding to it one teaspoonful of curry; two minutes later moisten with two gills of velouté (No. 415) , two ounces of mushroom peelings, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf. Reduce the sauce, and pour into it slowly about two gills of chicken broth (No. 188) , and at the very last moment two spoonfuls of good raw cream. Pass the sauce through a tammy, and incorporate into it a piece of fresh butter, then heat it up without boiling. Curry, Indian. -Put into a saucepan four ounces of ham, two ounces of onions, two ounces of mushrooms, all minced up very fine, a bunch of parsley garnished with as much bayleaf as thyme, one onion with three cloves in it, one teaspoonful of ground sweet Spanish pepper, a dash of cayenne pepper, a dessertspoonful of curry, a pinch of mace and one quart of chicken broth (No. 188) . Let simmer and reduce to half; add one quart of allemande sauce (No. 407) , and a pinch of saffron, pass it through a tammy and just when ready to serve incorporate into it two ounces of fresh butter. Curry with Apples. -Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan, adding to it four ounces of apples, four ounces of onions, two ounces of ham, all finely shreded, a pinch of mace, a teaspoonful of pepper-corns , a bay leaf and as much thyme. Set the saucepan on a moderate fire, and let all fry till the onions begin to brown, being careful to stir it constantly, and add a tablespoonful of curry, the same of vinegar, a teaspoonful of sugar, one quart of velouté (No. 415) , two gills of veal blond (No. 423) and one teaspoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) . Pass all through a tammy and add two gills of cream. (457). DANISH SAUCE (Sauce à la Danoise). Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, with four ounces of thinly sliced ham, and when lightly fried and a fine color, drain off the butter; detach the glaze with a gill of broth, add a clove of garlic, a bay leaf, as much thyme and a pint of espagnole (No. 414) ; cook slowly, despumate, season well, and pass the sauce through either a sieve or a tammy. Cut four ounces of chicken fillets, eight of mushrooms, and four of ham, into three-sixteenth inch squares; put them into the sauce with a small teaspoonful of chopped parsley. (458). D'ANTIN SAUCE (Sauce à la d'Antin). Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, add two ounces of onions cut in one-eighth inch squares, and fry them without letting them attain color; moisten with one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , one gill of Madeira, and one gill of tomato purée (No. 730) ; add half an ounce of chopped truffles, two ounces of mushrooms cut in eighth of an inch squares, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a small pinch of tarragon leaves; and also one coffeespoonful of chopped chives. (459). DEVILED SAUCE (Sauce à la Diable). Lay in a saucepan three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two ounces of one-eighth inch squares of shallot, a few parsley leaves, one bay leaf, as much thyme, and a clove of garlic crushed and chopped; let the whole boil for a few minutes, then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) , a pinch of mignonette, a very little cayenne pepper, a gill of red wine, and two tablespoonfuls of diluted mustard, also two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. (460). DIANA SAUCE (Sauce à la Diane). Into a saucepan put a quarter of a pound of butter; when hot add to it one medium onion, two shallots, one ounce of celery, all cut up very finely, and a bay leaf, and when these ingredients are well fried, add to them one pound of raw game carcass, and let the whole color nicely, adding three tablespoonfuls of flour, to make a roux, brown it slightly and then moisten with one pint of velouté stock (No. 422) and a pint of cream. Let the sauce cook and despumate for half an hour, seasoning it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; then strain it through a sieve, and afterward through a tammy, return it to the saucepan, and reduce it properly, incorporating into it two ounces of butter. (461). DUXELLE SAUCE WITH COOKED FINE HERBS AND TRUFFLES (Sauce à la Duxelle aux Fines Herbes Cuites et aux Truffes). Set into a saucepan two ounces of grated salt pork, and two ounces of butter, six shallots cut in squares; one clove of crushed and chopped garlic; when all these are fried without coloring add one quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms, a bay leaf, as much thyme and two cloves. Moisten the whole with half a pint of white wine, and the same quantity of broth, one pint of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415) , if for white and let cook for fifteen minutes. Add one tablespoonful of chopped truffles and a half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; take out the bayleaf, thyme and cloves. (462). EGG SAUCE, ENGLISH AND POLISH (Sauce aux œufs, à l'Anglaise et à la Polonaise). For English Egg Sauce. -Put a pint of velouté (No. 415) in a saucepan with some pepper, nutmeg, the juice of a lemon, and four hard boiled eggs chopped up over a white cloth, and then added to the sauce with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Should the sauce be too thick dilute it with some mushroom broth and white broth. For Polish Egg Sauce. -Have six small hard boiled eggs; chop up the whites and yolks separately; put into a sufficiently large frying pan half a pound of clarified butter, let it heat until it becomes hazel- nut butter, then season with salt, a tablespoonful or chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of diluted mustard and the chopped eggs; mix all without boiling and pour into a sauce -boat to be served separately. (463). FENNEL SAUCE (Sauce au Fenouil). Put one pint of velouté (No. 415) and a spoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) into a saucepan, and let them come to a boil, then thicken with one egg-yolk and some fresh butter, adding the juice of one lemon, and a tablespoonful of very finely chopped fennel. (464). FINANCIèRE SAUCE FOR FAT AND FOR LEAN AND WITH GAME AND CHICKEN (Sauce à la Financière en gras et en Maigre et au Gibier et à la Volaille). Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add four ounces of cooked lean ham cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, fry without coloring and then throw in four ounces of mushrooms or their parings, two bay leaves, as much thyme, one ounce of truffle parings and two gills of dry Madeira or sherry, let simmer and reduce over a slow fire. Moisten with one pint of veal blond (No. 423) , and one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , then let boil and despumate, adding a gill more Madeira, and when the suce is done, strain it through a tammy. For Lean. -Replace the ham by smoked salmon or sturgeon, the sherry by sauterne, the veal blond by fish stock (No. 417) , and use lean espagnole, and then finish the same as for the fat. For Financière Sauce with Game or Chicken. -Infuse in a quarter of a bottleful of warm white wine or champagne, two ounces of mushrooms and one of truffles. Place two ounces of butter in a saucepan with two ounces of finely minced raw ham, and when it is fried, drain off the butter and moisten with one pint either of chicken or game stock (No. 195) , one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , and the infused mushrooms and truffles; season with a dash of cayenne pepper, and let boil, skim and reduce it to a proper degree. Strain the sauce and keep it warm in a bain marie. (465). FINNOISE SAUCE (Sauce à la Finnoise). Put two gills of velouté (No. 415) into a saucepan with six tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze (No. 401) , a pinch of paprika and a pinch of sweet Spanish pepper and salt; mix all well together, let boil, and incorporate slowly into it six ounces of butter, working it in with a wire whisk, and then add a coffeespoonful of chopped up parsley just when prepared to serve. (466). FLAVIGNAN SAUCE (Sauce à la Flavignan). Pound half a pound of very fat chicken livers, two ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and a pinch of finely cut tarragon; have three gills of port wine in a saucepan with one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , add to it salt, pepper, coriander seeds, cinnamon and sugar, boil it for a few minutes, and then mix in the pounded livers, stirring them in well; boil again for a few minutes longer and strain through a tammy; finish with two ounces of butter before serving. (467). FRENCH SAUCE (Sauce à la Française). Reduce one pint of béchamel (No. 409) , with two gills of mushroom essence (No. 392) in a saucepan, season with mignonette and nutmeg and half a small clove of crushed and chopped garlic, as well as a tablespoonful of meat glaze. Just when ready to serve incorporate into the sauce four ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573) , strain through a tammy, then add a teaspoonful of vinegar and chopped parsley. (468). GASCOGNE SAUCE AND WITH TOMATOES (Sauce à la Gascogne et aux Tomates). Heat one gill of oil in a saucepan with two cloves of crushed and chopped garlic; add to this one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the same quantity of chives, two ounces of chopped mushrooms, one ounce of chopped truffles, nutmeg, and mignonette, when all these ingredients are fried without coloring, add half a pint of white wine and one pint of velouté (No. 415) . Boil, skim off the surface, reduce and pour in two gills of white wine; thicken with four egg-yolks diluted with half a gill of cream, and just when ready to serve incorporate into the sauce one ounce of anchovy butter (No. 569) . Gascogne and Tomato Sauce. -Add to the above sauce two gills of tomato purée (No. 730) , previously strained through a very fine sieve. (469). GENEVOISE SAUCE (Sauce Genevoise). Place in a saucepan one pound of the head of salmon, moisten it with a bottleful of red wine, and a pint of fish broth or water; add four ounces of mushroom parings, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, as much thyme, and a clove of garlic, two shallots, and one minced onion, a teaspoonful of pepper corns , and half a teaspoonful of whole allspice; set it on the fire to boil and continue boiling slowly for half an hour. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve; reduce it with a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and half a gill of Madeira wine; when the sauce is well reduced and despumated, work into it just when ready to serve, two ounces of anchovy butter (No. 569) . (470). GÉNOISE SAUCE (Sauce à la Génoise). This sauce must not be confused with gènevoise. Put into a saucepan two gills of vinegar, and two chopped shallots, let reduce till dry, then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) and two gills of chicken essence (No. 387) or else fish essence (No. 388) , according if needed for fat or lean; one ounce of chopped gherkins, two tablespoonfuls of small nonpareil capers, half an ounce of Sultana raisins and half an ounce of currants, a coffeespoonful of sugar, a dash of cayenne, mignonette, and nutmeg; reduce the whole to a proper consistency and add one gill of tomato purée; boil, despumate and reduce to the consistency of a light sauce. Serve this sauce with roasted or broiled poultry. (471). GOOSEBERRY SAUCE (Sauce aux Groseilles Vertes à Maquereau). Cut off the stalks and remove the black spots from half a pound of gooseberries; blanch them in an untinned copper vessel for two minutes, drain and add them to a pint of Hollandaise sauce (No. 477) or instead of using them whole they may be rubbed through a sieve and the pulp mixed with the Hollandaise sauce. (472). GOURMETS SAUCE (Sauce des Gourmets). Cut four tomatoes in two across, press out the seed and put them in a saucepan with parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt, mignonette, and one small minced onion; boil for twenty minutes, drain and strain through a sieve; keep the liquid; then put a pint of the pulp into a saucepan with two gills of meat glaze (No. 401) , beat them well together with a wire whisk, and stir in a quarter of a pound of lobster butter, adding a tablespoonful of wine vinegar, one pinch of minced tarragon and a tablespoonful of finely chopped and blanched shallots slightly fried in butter. (473). GREEN SAUCE (Sauce Verte). Pour into a saucepan one pint of white wine; add a tablespoonful of vinegar, two well chopped shallots, also the quarter of one bay leaf, two stalks of chives, two sprigs of thyme, and four branches of chervil; reduce the whole thoroughly, and then add to it one pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) , a little cayenne pepper, and some spinach green; strain through a tammy, incorporate a few pieces of good butter and serve. (474). GREEN HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise Verte). Set into a saucepan five tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of pepper corns , some thyme and bay leaves. Dilute this with a pint of water and boil while stirring so as to make a thick but smooth paste; cook it on a very slow fire for fifteen minutes, then take it off, let it get slightly cold, and add ten egg-yolks, afterward the butter and water, a very little at the time; using in all about two pounds of fresh butter and half a pound of ravigote butter, the juice of three lemons or simply a spoonful of vinegar; color with spinach green, and if too thick, thin it out with water, then strain through a tammy and keep it in a bain-marie at a moderate heat. (475). GRIMOD SAUCE (Sauce à la Grimod). Set in a bain-marie two raw egg-yolks, the juice of one lemon, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mignonette, also a quarter of a pound of butter; beat the eggs and butter together over a slow fire using a small egg -beater; add a little cayenne pepper, a pinch of saffron leaves infused in half a gill of water; and when the sauce begins to get warm, strain it through a tammy, and keep it in a moderate temperature until needed to serve. (476). HAM SAUCE AND HARLEQUIN SAUCE (Sauce au Jambon et à l'Arlequin). Ham Sauce. -Place in a saucepan on the fire two ounces of butter, add to it two ounces of lean ham either scraped or finely chopped, and then fry it without letting it attain color, and moisten with a pint of cream; reduce and add one pint of béchamel (No. 409) ; boil it again and thicken the sauce with six raw egg-yolks and half a pint more cream; and just when ready to serve throw in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Harlequin Sauce. -Heat three ounces of butter in a saucepan, add half a pound of raw ham cut in three-sixteenth inch squares; fry without coloring, drain off the butter, take out the ham and detach the glaze with a little broth, adding four gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , two of champagne, and two of veal blond (No. 423) ; reduce and despumate; strain through a tammy, add the ham, four ounces of gherkins cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, and four ounces of egg-white cut the same; also four ounces of carrots cut in same size squares, blanched and cooked in consommé with a little sugar, four ounces of cooked truffles cut the same as the carrots, and a heavy pinch of blanched parsley leaves. (477). HOLLANDAISE SAUCE AND HOLLANDAISE MOUSSELINE SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise et Sauce Hollandaise Mousseline). Reduce half a gill of vinegar into which a coffeespoonful of white pepper corns has been added; remove it from the fire, and pour in about half a gill of cold water, five egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, salt, and grated nutmeg; set this saucepan into a larger one containing boiling water, or simply on a very slow fire; stir the contents constantly with a wire- egg beater, and as soon as the sauce becomes consistent add fresh butter divided into small pats, until six ounces have been consumed; squeeze in the juice of one lemon, more or less, according to taste, and if the sauce be too thick add a little more water to it; then strain it through a tammy (No. 159) , pour it in the vessel described in Fig. 129, put it in a bain-marie not too hot, then stir it again constantly for a few minutes and serve. Hollandaise Mousseline. -Reduce one gill of vinegar, with a few grains of pepper; take it off the fire, and when the liquid is nearly cold mix in with it five egg-yolks, beating them well with a wire whip, then add five ounces of fresh butter, salt, and nutmeg; set the saucepan over a slow fire, stir the preparation rapidly until the butter is melted, then strain the sauce through a sieve or tammy into another saucepan; set this one into another containing boiling water and keep it on the side of the range, working the sauce incessantly until it is thick and frothy, adding little by little a quarter of a pound of butter, and one pint of well-drained whipped cream; it is now ready to be served. (478). HORSERADISH SAUCES WITH BREAD-CRUMBS, BÉCHAMEL OR CREAM (Sauces au Raifort à la mie de Pain, Béchamel ou Crème). The horseradish needed for making sauces should be first scraped, then grated on a coarse grater. For plain horseradish, white sauce (No. 562) , butter (No. 440) or Hollandaise sauces (No. 476) are used. The horseradish should never be cooked in the sauce, it must only be put in, in order to heat it. Horseradish Sauce with Bread-crumbs. -Soak two ounces of bread-crumbs in hot water, then squeeze. Cook with broth in a saucepan for a few minutes, finishing with an ounce of butter, two spoonfuls of raw cream, salt, and a pinch of sugar. At the last moment add the grated horseradish to the sauce. This sauce is also frequently prepared with plain velouté (No. 415) , lightly reduced and finished with three spoonfuls of raw cream. This sauce must be passed through a tammy (No. 159) and then the grated horseradish added. Horseradish Sauce Béchamel, is made by pouring a pint of well seasoned béchamel into a saucepan; season with salt, cayenne, and sugar; take it off at the first boil, and add one gill of cream, and one ounce of fresh butter, also six ounces of grated horseradish; warm the sauce without boiling. Horseradish and Cream. -Reduce a pint of cream to one-third, add to it salt, nutmeg, sugar and eight ounces of grated horseradish; warm it up and thicken with half a gill more of cream, two egg-yolks, and two ounces of butter. (479). HUNGARIAN SAUCE (Sauce à la Hongroise). Pour into a saucepan, the value of half a pint of tomato purée (No. 730) cooked plain, which means drained, but not thickened, also the same quantity of onion purée (No. 723) , a gill of melted meat glaze (No. 401) , and a pinch of paprika; let it all boil while stirring for two minutes, then remove it to the side of the range, and incorporate slowly into it, five ounces of butter, divided into small pats, without ceasing to stir. (480). HUNTER'S SAUCE (Sauce au Chasseur). Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, with two shallots cut in one-eighth inch dice; fry them a light golden color, and then moisten with one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , and one pint of game stock; season, and boil on one side only, to despumate, then add half a bottle of Bordeaux, one ounce of cooked lean ham cut into small three-sixteenth inch squares, and two ounces of mushrooms. This sauce may be thickened with two gills of liquid game blood mixed with a tablespoonful of good vinegar; thicken it without boiling, strain the sauce through a tammy and serve. (481). HUNTRESS SAUCE (Sauce à la Chasseresse). Put into a saucepan on the fire, two ounces of butter with two spoonfuls of chopped onions; fry these for a few minutes, then add two ounces of chopped fresh mushrooms and two ounces of unsmoked, salted beef tongues cut into dice pieces three-sixteenths of an inch. After the humidity from the mushrooms has evaporated, let them fry together without coloring. Moisten with a quart of game stock (No. 195) , and half a bottle of champagne, add a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as much thyme, and then continue to boil slowly for half an hour; strain the sauce through a fine sieve, and thicken it with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, adding one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon. (482). HUSSARDE SAUCE (Sauce à la Hussarde). Fry in a saucepan two ounces of lean ham with two ounces of butter, adding two ounces of onions, two cut-up, blanched celery roots, and two shallots, moisten with half a pint of broth (No. 194a) and half a pint of white wine; add a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and as much thyme, a clove of garlic and a pinch of tarragon; let the whole boil for half an hour, and then thicken it with two ounces of butter kneaded with one ounce of flour, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, strain the sauce through a tammy and mingle in with it two ounces of grated fresh horseradish. (483). INDIAN SAUCE (Sauce à l'Indienne). Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with two ounces of onions, two ounces of lean un smoked ham, one ounce of celery and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and two cloves of garlic. Moisten with two gills of veal blond (No. 423) , one quart of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415) (if velouté is used thicken with four egg-yolks and half a gill of cream), add one tablespoonful of pepper corns , three cloves, one pinch of saffron, and one teaspoonful of curry. Reduce all this and then strain it through a tammy (No. 170) , and just when ready to serve incorporate into it two ounces of fresh butter. (484). ITALIAN SAUCE (Sauce à l'Italienne). Place a tablespoonful of olive oil and two ounces of butter in a saucepan with two ounces of onions, and four shallots, all chopped up; a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and the same quantity of thyme, two cloves and one clove of garlic, two ounces of ham cut in squares, fry all these without letting them attain color, add a quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms; moisten with one gill of white wine and three gills of veal blond (No. 423), salt, red pepper and nutmeg to season, add a quart of espagnole (No. 414) , or velouté (No. 415) , skim off and reduce the sauce; suppress the parsley, just when ready to serve add the juice of a lemon and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. For Italian sauce with truffles add two ounces of chopped truffles. (485). JUVIGNY SAUCE (Sauce Juvigny). This sauce is made by putting a teaspoonful of chives and the same quantity of parsley, both finely chopped, into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, set it on the fire and add to it one tablespoonful of shallots; fry all lightly without coloring, then put in one pint of velouté (No. 415) , one gill of white wine, some salt, pepper, and nutmeg, let boil up for a few minutes; despumate well, and just when serving stir in a tablespoonful of small capers. (486). LAGUIPIERRE SAUCE (Sauce à la Laguipierre). Pour into a saucepan a quarter of a bottleful of white wine or champagne, add to it two ounces of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of chopped and blanched shallots, half a clove of garlic, one bay leaf, six grains of allspice, eighteen grains of pepper, and let all these simmer together with two gills of veal blond (No. 423) for fifteen minutes, then add one pint of velouté (No. 415) , and one gill of reduced mushroom essence (No. 392) ; thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and one gill of cream, strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159) , and then beat into it two ounces of fresh butter and the juice of one lemon. (487). LITHUANIAN SAUCE (Sauce à la Lithuanienne). Knead together in a saucepan four ounces of butter with one and a half ounces of fresh bread-crumbs, add the juice of one lemon; two spoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) , some nutmeg and mignonette. Set this on a moderate fire, and stir the preparation without letting it boil; just when ready to serve, add one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, dilute it with stock (No. 423) ; see that the sauce is not too thick. (488). LOBSTER SAUCE, LOBSTER SAUCE WITH MADEIRA WINE AND LOBSTER SAUCE WITH LOBSTER BUTTER (Sauce Homard, Sauce Homard au Vin de Madère et Sauce au Beurre de Homard). Lobster Sauce. -Place a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) , in a saucepan with pepper corns , thyme, bay leaf and a tablespoonful of chopped and blanched onions, cook all together, then strain through a tammy (No. 159) ; just when ready to serve incorporate in a piece of lobster butter (No. 581) , and a dash of vinegar. Lobster Sauce with Madeira Wine. -Put into a saucepan two gills of dry Madeira wine, one chopped shallot, a pinch of parsley leaves, mignonette and grated nutmeg, reduce with two gills of broth, and when well reduced add one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) and two ounces of very red lobster butter (No. 581) , strain through a tammy and drop in one ounce of lobster meat cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares. Lobster Sauce with Lobster Butter. -Have in a saucepan half velouté sauce (No. 415) and half Hollandaise (No. 477) , a little water, salt, mignonette and nutmeg. When the sauce is very hot incorporate in a piece of lobster butter and some chopped parsley. (489). LOMBARDE SAUCE (Sauce Lombarde). Have in a saucepan half a bottleful of white wine, add to it two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two finely chopped and blanched shallots and a quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms. Let all simmer till the liquid is reduced, then add a pint of béchamel (No. 409) , and a gill of cream, also the juice of a lemon and a pinch of mignonette. (490). SAUCE À LA LUCULLUS (Sauce à la Lucullus). Garnish the bottom of a thick bottomed buttered saucepan with four onions cut in slices, four ounces of sliced ham, one pound of sliced veal and half a pound of game fragments, moisten with one pint of veal blond (No. 423) . Set this on a slow fire and let reduce to a glaze, then remoisten with two and a half quarts more broth, adding a bunch of parsley, as much celery, and two bay leaves, with an equal quantity of thyme, four cloves, two ounces of truffle parings and four ounces of mushrooms, let it boil until perfectly cooked, then strain through a tammy and reduce it to the consistency of a thick syrup, and add one quart of velouté (No. 415) or espagnole (No. 414) ; for either one or the other have two spoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) , then put in four ounces of truffles cut in balls and four ounces of channeled mushrooms; mix well with the sauce and serve. (491). LYONNESE SAUCE WITH TARRAGON (Sauce Lyonnaise à l'Estragon). Cut up eight ounces of onions into three-sixteenth inch squares; blanch, then drain and fry them in two gills of oil or else six ounces of butter; when nearly done, put them into a saucepan with one pint of veal blond (No. 423) , one pint of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté sauce (No. 415), and one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) ; reduce it, then add the juice of a lemon, some nutmeg, and mignonette. Strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159) , then incorporate into it four ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of tarragon leaves finely shredded and blanched. (492). MADEIRA SAUCE, OR SHERRY, MARSALA, ETC. (Sauce au vin de Madère, au Xérès, ou au Marsala, etc.). Reduce well one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , adding slowly to it one gill of veal blond (No. 423) , or chicken stock (No. 195) and a few truffle parings; when the sauce is well reduced, incorporate into it by degrees, two gills of Madeira wine or any other preferred. As soon as the sauce is finished, pass through a tammy and keep warm in a bain-marie. (493). MAîTRE D'HôTEL SAUCE, THICKENED (Sauce à la Maître d'Hôtel, Liée). Put into a high saucepan three gills of velouté (No. 415) or béchamel (No. 409) with two gills of water; let it warm up and then add to it slowly half a pound of butter, working it in well, pass through a tammy; season with the juice of a lemon, some salt and pepper, and should the sauce be too thick then add a little more water; strain again through a tammy, add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. (494). SAUCE À LA MANTAISE (Sauce à la Mantaise). Pound four ounces of chicken fat livers with two ounces of beef marrow; fry in two ounces of butter, two ounces of mushrooms, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two chopped shallots, and one crushed clove of garlic; let this get cold, and then pound it well adding to it the pounded livers and marrow; with this preparation fill a mold well lined with bardes of fat pork, and cook it in the oven for an hour, then unmold it over a sieve to drain. Dilute this mixture with a pint of espagnole (No. 414) or velouté (No. 415) , and one or two gills of chicken essence (No. 387) ; strain it through a tammy, and beat up the sauce well before serving. (495). SAUCE À LA MARCEAU (Sauce à la Marceau). Keep in a bain-marie, three pints of espagnole (No. 414) reduced with some game fumet (No. 397) and Madeira wine. Cook in plenty of salted water, in a covered vessel, one dozen peeled cloves of garlic, until very tender, then drain them; wipe them dry on a cloth, and fry them for a few minutes in a pan, with some melted butter till the moisture is thoroughly evaporated, then rub them through a sieve and afterward through a tammy (No. 159) , and add this purée slowly into the sauce; stir well, and pour it into a sauceboat. (496). MARINADE SAUCE (Sauce Marinade). Cut into thin slices a quarter of a pound of carrots and as many onions; lay them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, as much thyme, basil, and a clove of garlic, two minced shallots, and four cloves. Fry the whole lightly without coloring in the butter, and then moisten with two quarts of water, and one pint of vinegar or more according to strength, and a tablespoonful of peppercorns; let cook for one hour, then strain through a sieve, return it to the fire, and reduce to half; add one quart of espagnole (No. 414) and reduce again to the consistency of a sauce. (497). MARINIèRE SAUCE (Sauce Marinière). Have two ounces of onions cut into small three-sixteenth inch squares; fry them colorless in two ounces of butter, then moisten them with a gill of white wine, adding one tablespoonful of brandy, two ounces of finely chopped mushrooms, one pint of velouté (No. 415) , two gills of veal blond (No. 423) or fish stock (No. 195) (if for lean), salt, pepper, nutmeg, one clove of garlic, one bay leaf, and as much thyme. Let cook, despumate for half an hour, skim well the surface, and add another gill of white wine, then strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159) , and just when ready to serve, throw in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. (498). MATELOTTE SAUCE (Sauce Matelotte). Cut in slices one pound of pike, half a pound of eels, and half a pound of carp; put these into a saucepan with minced carrots and onions, two ounces of each, half a handful of parsley and basil, two small cloves of garlic, bay leaf, thyme, salt and allspice; pour in half a bottleful of Bordeaux wine, and half a pint of fish broth or water; let boil for ten minutes, then drain and add to the liquid either half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , or some kneaded butter; reduce, dilute with a gill of Bordeaux wine, and finally incorporate into it, two ounces of fresh butter. Just when ready to serve throw into the sauce, half a pound of mushrooms, and twenty-four small white onions lightly browned in a pan and cooked in broth. A More Simple Way, is to fry a little minced onions and shallot in butter, and when a nice color drain off the butter and moisten the onions with two gills of Burgundy wine; let the liquid reduce to half and then incorporate four gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) ; let reduce once more, and after the sauce is properly done, strain it through a sieve, and keep it warm. (499). SAUCE À LA MILANESE (Sauce à la Milanaise). Have two ounces of butter in a saucepan with one ounce of minced, raw ham and two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallot; fry them without coloring, and then add a small handful of parsley and basil, a bay leaf and as much thyme, one ounce of chopped mushrooms, a pinch of cayenne, a bit of mace, two cloves, one coffeespoonful of sugar, the juice of a lemon, half a gill of dry Madeira, and a pint of consommé (No. 189) . Boil all and reduce it to half, then add one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) , and strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159) , afterward incorporating into it two ounces of fine butter. A garnishing should be added to this sauce of pignolas, cooked spaghetti cut in half inch lengths, cooked ham and mushrooms cut in half inch sticks and an eighth of an inch square. (500). SAUCE À LA MIRABEAU (Sauce à la Mirabeau). Pound three hard boiled egg-yolks with a handful of chervil and two tablespoonfuls of capers, adding a quarter of a pound of butter, a clove of garlic chopped and crushed; then rub the mixture through a sieve. Put into a saucepan a quart of velouté (No. 415) and two gills of chicken stock (No. 195) ; let it boil up; despumate the surface and reduce the whole, afterward adding very slowly the prepared butter, working it in the sauce with a whisk, season highly and strain through a tammy, heating it again before using. (501). MODERN HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (Sauce Hollandaise Moderne). Modern Hollandaise is made as follows: Melt two pounds of butter in a saucepan without heating it too much, then let it settle, and pour off the top. Beat twelve egg-yolks in a saucepan with half a pint of water. Set the saucepan on a slow fire, and stir the contents continuously with a whisk; and as soon as the eggs become consistent incorporate into them the butter previously melted, little by little, some salt and mignonette; or else a dash of cayenne instead of the mignonette, and besides this the juice of four lemons. If the sauce be too thick add a little water, and then pass it through a tammy (No. 159) . Put the sauce in the mixing pot ( Fig. 171); keep it in a bain-marie, not too hot, until needed. (502). SAUCE À LA MONTEBELLO (Sauce à la Montebello). Prepare one pint of thick bearnaise sauce (No. 433) , and incorporate into it three gills of well reduced tomato sauce (No. 549) , then strain the whole through a very fine sieve, and dilute it with two gills of champagne. (503). SAUCE À LA MONTIGNY AND TOMATO EXTRACT (Sauce à la Montigny et à l'Extrait de Tomates). Put into a saucepan two ounces of fresh butter and two teaspoonfuls of chopped shallots; let fry colorless with a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; cook together for five minutes, then moisten with two gills of tomato extract, a gill of meat glaze (No. 401) , three gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , a pinch of powdered sugar, a pint of velouté (No. 415) , chopped parsley and lemon juice. Tomato Extract. -Cook some tomatoes for half an hour; strain them through a coarse sieve, put them on a piece of muslin over a vessel to retain all the falling liquid, and reduce this liquid to a thick syrup. (504). SAUCE À LA MORNAY (Sauce à la Mornay). After reducing a good béchamel sauce (No. 409) , stir into it incessantly a few spoonfuls of mushroom sauce (No. 392) and some raw cream, also essence of fish (No. 388) , should this sauce be needed for fish; but if otherwise then use a few spoonfuls of good chicken stock (No. 195) reduced to a half-glaze. When the sauce becomes succulent and creamy, pour it into a small saucepan, beat it smooth while heating it, and finish it off of the fire with some butter and grated parmesan cheese. This sauce is used for dishes that are bread -crumbed and for meats baked by a salamander. Its delicacy forbids it being boiled. (505). MUSHROOM SAUCE (Sauce aux Champignons). Turn and wash half a pound of small mushroom heads (No. 118) ; put them into a saucepan with the juice of a lemon, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, some salt and a gill of water. When they are cooked, after three minutes, drain, and put the liquid back into a saucepan with a pint of velouté (No. 415) or espagnole (No. 414) , either fat or lean according to its requirements, then reduce and despumate the sauce. Just when ready to serve incorporate into it two ounces of butter and the cooked mushrooms. (506). MUSSEL SAUCE (Sauce aux Moules). Scrape eighteen mussels, wash them clean in several waters, and put them into a saucepan with half a gill of water, some vinegar and pepper, but no salt, sprigs of parsley and minced onions; cover the saucepan, set it on the fire, and toss it several times until they open, then take them from their shells, cut off their black parts, and strain the broth after it has well settled; pour off the clear part, leaving the sediment at the bottom, and strain this through a sieve. Put one pint of velouté (No. 415) into a saucepan, also two gills of the mussel broth; reduce, and thicken with four raw egg-yolks, a little nutmeg, half a gill of cream, two ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon; strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159) , and finish by adding a small coffeespoonful of chopped parsley and the eighteen cooked mussels; warm well and serve. (507). NEAPOLITAN SAUCE (Sauce Napolitaine). Put two ounces of cooked, lean, and well chopped ham into a saucepan with a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and as much thyme, some mignonette, nutmeg and cayenne, two gills of Madeira wine, and two gills of broth; let reduce to half on a slow fire, then suppress the bunch of parsley, and add one pint of espagnole (No. 414) ; boil it up again, despumate, and strain it through a tammy (No. 159) , put it back to reduce once more, adding to it two gills of Malaga wine, and a quarter of a pound of current jelly, dissolving the latter slowly by degrees, and two spoonfuls of grated horseradish. (508). NONPAREIL SAUCE (Sauce Nonpareille). Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) , with two gills of cream, incorporating in two ounces of fresh butter; strain it through a tammy (No. 159) , and set in one ounce of truffles, two ounces of mushrooms, two ounces of cooked egg-whites cut in squares, two tablespoonfuls of chopped coral, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of small capers, and three ounces of red beef tongue or ham cut into three-sixteenths of an inch pieces. (509). SAUCE À LA NORMANDE (Sauce à la Normande). Cut three pounds of bony fish into pieces, such as sheepshead, bass, blackfish, redsnapper, etc., let the pieces be of a quarter of a pound each; put them into a saucepan with two minced onions, two ounces of mushroom parings, some parsley, a bay leaf, the same quantity of thyme and two cloves of garlic, moisten with a quarter of a bottle of white wine, three pints of water, two gills of oyster liquor and let the whole cook slowly for thirty minutes, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve, and add to it one quart of velouté (No. 415) , another quarter of a bottle of white wine, and reduce it all; just when ready to serve, thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and incorporate into it two ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon; season well and finish by straining once more through a tammy (No. 159) . (510). OLIVE SAUCE (Sauce aux Olives). Verdal or Spanish Olives, Stuffed or Not Stuffed. -Remove the stones from two ounces of olives without injuring their shape, then throw them into boiling, salted water, drain them after they have boiled up once or twice, and put them into a pint of reduced and clear espagnole (No. 414) . The empty spaces in the olives may be filled with a chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) , mixed with anchovy butter (No. 569) ; poach and drain, and stir them into the sauce. (511). ORANGE SAUCE (Sauce à l'Orange). Shred the peel of an orange as finely as possible, throw the pieces into boiling water, and let them cook for five minutes, then drain and put them into a saucepan with two gills of beef juice, three gills of espagnole (No. 414) , the juice of two oranges and of one lemon, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. (512). SAUCE À LA D'ORLÉANS (Sauce à la d'Orléans). Fry lightly in one ounce of butter three chopped shallots; add a tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) , and one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) , and incorporate into it half a pound of crawfish butter (No. 573) and a pinch of cayenne pepper; strain through a tammy and serve. (513). OYSTER SAUCE (Sauce aux Huîtres). Poach in white wine one dozen small oysters; strain the juice and leave it to settle. Put on the fire to reduce three gills of velouté sauce (No. 415) , and stir into it slowly one gill of good fish stock (No. 195) and the oyster juice, thickening the whole with half a gill of cream, and two egg-yolks; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and the juice of a lemon; then strain the sauce, add a little butter to it, also the oysters and some chopped parsley. (514). SAUCE À LA PALERMITAINE (Sauce à la Palermitaine). Place all together in a saucepan one ounce of cooked, minced ham, one ounce of chopped pignolas, one clove of garlic, one gill of oil, eight tomatoes washed, cut across in two and well pressed, a bunch of parsley garnished with as much bay leaf as thyme, mignonette, nutmeg and two cloves. Let all cook, then drain, and strain forcibly through a fine sieve, reduce together both the broth and purée, adding to it two gills of white wine, a teaspoonful of sugar, three gills of broth, one quart of allemande (No. 407) , four ounces of butter, and the pulp of a lemon. (515). PARISIAN SAUCE (Sauce Parisienne). To make the essence, cook two ounces of truffle parings in three gills of boiling dry white wine with some parsley, bay leaf, and a small minced shallot, then leave it for half an hour in a high covered saucepan in a bain-marie before draining it over a sieve. Pour this essence into a pint of velouté (No. 415) ; reduce and add two spoonfuls of meat or chicken glaze (No. 398) , a pinch of cayenne, and stir in just when ready to serve two ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon. (516). PÉRIGORD SAUCE (Sauce Périgord). Peel eight ounces of medium sized fresh Périgord truffles; cook them for five minutes with salt and Madeira wine, then remove from the fire and keep them in the covered saucepan. Make an infusion with two gills of Madeira wine, one ounce of raw ham, the truffle peelings, thyme and bay leaf, and a few sprigs of parsley. Put on the fire to reduce, four gills of good velouté (No. 415) , and incorporate into it slowly, one gill of cream, and the same quantity of the Madeira wine infusion already prepared. When the sauce is succulent and sufficiently consistent, strain and pour it into a saucepan, mixing in with it the cooked truffles cut into thin slices; keep the sauce warm in a bain-marie. (517). PÉRIGEUX SAUCE (Sauce Périgeux). Peel three ounces of fresh truffles; cook them with some salt and Madeira wine; remove them from the fire and keep them in a covered vessel. Infuse in two gills of boiling Madeira wine, one ounce of raw ham cut into dices, the truffle peelings, some thyme, bay leaf, and sprigs of parsley. Put on the fire to reduce, one pint of espagnole (No. 414), stir slowly into it, one gill of veal blond (No. 423) , and the same quantity of Madeira infusion. When the sauce is succulent and sufficiently consistent, strain it, and set it into a saucepan with a few spoonfuls of the cooked truffles cut into eighth of an inch squares. Another way is to infuse in two gills of Madeira wine, one ounce of truffle peelings with a little thyme and bay leaf, leaving them in for thirty minutes. Pour into a saucepan a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) with essence of ham (No. 390), a little mignonette, and two gills of chicken or game stock (No. 195) , then reduce and strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159) . Place in another saucepan two ounces of truffles cut in small one-eighth inch squares with two gills of Madeira wine, reduce it until dry, and incorporate into the sauce just when ready to serve one ounce of fresh butter. (518). PICKLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Cornichons). Slice two ounces of pickles into thin pieces, and lay them in a saucepan with one gill of vinegar and a pinch of mignonette; let it boil up quickly and reduce it to half its quantity, then add one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , two gills of veal blond (No. 423) , a bay leaf, and as much thyme. Despumate the sauce for fifteen minutes, then suppress the bay leaf and thyme, and serve. (519). PIEDMONTESE SAUCE (Sauce Piémontaise). Fry lightly without coloring in two ounces of clarified butter, four ounces of onions, when done, drain the butter, and finish cooking them in one pint of veal blond (No. 423) . Skim off all the fat, and then pour in a pint of béchamel (No. 409) or espagnole (No. 414) , reduce and add two ounces of white Piemont truffles cut in squares; just when ready to serve, stir in an ounce of garlic butter (No. 576) mixed with anchovy butter (No. 569) ; then add a dash of cayenne pepper and the juice of a lemon. (520). PIGNOLA SAUCE, ITALIAN STYLE (Sauce aux Pignons à l'Italienne). Put two ounces of brown sugar in a saucepan with three gills of good vinegar, three gills of veal blond (No. 423) , and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and thyme, some mignonette and nutmeg. Let the whole simmer over a slow fire, and reduce it to half. Then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) and two gills of red wine; reduce again and put in four ounces of pignolas, let them boil in the sauce and serve. (521). PIMENTADE SAUCE (Sauce Pimentade). Cut up into quarter inch squares a quarter of a pound of lean veal and two ounces of onions, a quarter of a pound of raw, lean ham, then add a small clove of crushed garlic, put all these into a saucepan with some butter and let cook slowly. Fry some sweet Spanish peppers in oil after removing the skins; also some green peppers having both finely chopped, add these to the ham, veal and onions and then add a little good gravy and espagnole sauce (No. 414) , also a little tomato purée (No. 730) . Boil all together, season properly, skim off the fat and serve. (522). POIVRADE SAUCE (Sauce Poivrade). For Fat Poivrade à l'Espagnole. -Have a pint of poivrade (No. 523) , half a pint of espagnole (No. 414) , half a pint of veal blond (No. 423) , and reduce all till properly done, season well. For Lean Poivrade. -Suppress the ham from the poivrade (No. 523) , and replace it by sturgeon, and the fat stock by some lean stock (No. 195) . For White Poivrade with Velouté. -Reduce two gills of white wine to half, adding some white peppers, aromatic herbs and mushroom parings. Put into this reduced stock three gills of velouté sauce (No. 415) , with a little glaze (No. 401) , and then stir in slowly a few spoonfuls of good stock (No. 423) ; when the sauce becomes succulent, set it into a deep saucepan, and if not used at once in a bain-marie. (523). POIVRADE FOR SAUCES (Poivrade pour Sauces). Not to be mistaken for poivrade sauce. Put into a saucepan four ounces of butter with half a pound of onions and six shallots, both cut into one-eighth inch squares, also a pound of carrots, half a pound of lean ham cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, a tablespoonful of pepper corns or else a teaspoonful of mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with two bay leaves, a clove of garlic and four cloves. Fry the whole slowly without coloring; then moisten with one pint of vinegar and a pint of veal blond (No. 423) , reduce all until dry, and moisten once more with a pint of veal blond and two gills of white wine, also three pints of espagnole (No. 414) . Boil slowly, despumate for an hour, and strain through a sieve. (524). POLISH SAUCE (Sauce à la Polonaise). Place in a deep saucepan, two tablespoonfuls of grated fresh horseradish, one coffeespoonful of powdered sugar, with one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) , and a pint of velouté (No. 415) ; squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add the chopped peel of a quarter of a lemon with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley or fennel, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, set the saucepan in a bain-marie and when ready to serve incorporate two ounces of fresh butter into the sauce. (525). POMPADOUR SAUCE (Sauce Pompadour). Fry lightly in two ounces of butter two finely chopped shallots, do not let them color; add to them four ounces of minced mushrooms; stir with a spoon until they have exhausted all their moisture; now pour in five gills of velouté (No. 415) and let the whole boil, with three gills of veal blond (No. 423) , despumating it well. Thicken the sauce with six raw egg-yolks diluted in a gill of cream, add two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, also a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley. (526). PORTUGUESE SAUCE (Sauce à la Portugaise). Rub on a loaf of sugar, the peel of one lemon and one orange; scrape the sugar off with a spoon to obtain the part colored by the peels, then put this in a saucepan with a coffeespoonful of coriander seeds and two gills of port wine; set the pan on the fire and when a white foam rises to the top, remove it at once and cover. Half an hour later pour the wine through a fine sieve and add to it three gills of béchamel sauce (No. 409) , and two of tomato purée (No. 730) ; let the sauce boil up once then strain it through a tammy; add to it the juices of both the lemon and orange, besides a spoonful of chopped parsley. (527). POULETTE SAUCE (Sauce à la Poulette). Pour a pint of velouté (No. 415) into a saucepan; let it boil, then thicken it with four raw egg-yolks diluted with a little cream; add at the last moment two ounces of butter, the juice of a lemon and some chopped parsley. (528). PRINCESS SAUCE (Sauce é la Princesse). Put one pint of béchamel (No. 409) into a saucepan, adding to it two tablespoonfuls of chicken glaze (No. 398) , one gill of cream, and some grated nutmeg; stir in just when ready to serve, four ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and the juice of one lemon. (529). PROVENçALE SAUCE, FAT OR LEAN (Sauce à la Provençale en Gras ou en Maigre). Fry lightly in two gills of oil, half a pound of minced onions, two ounces of ham (or smoked salmon, if for lean), a pinch of parsley leaves, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, thyme, bay leaf, mignonette, nutmeg, a pinch of ground cloves; dilute with a pint of fish stock (No. 195) , if for lean, or veal blond 3 if for fat; let cook, despumate, and when the broth is reduced to a third, add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) , if for brown or allemande (No. 407) if for white; one or the other, for fat or lean. Stir in two ounces of fresh butter and the juice of a lemon to finish. (530). QUEEN SAUCE (Sauce à la Reine). Set into a saucepan, an ounce and a half of fresh bread-crumbs, and one pint of chicken essence (No. 387) ; pound two ounces of sweet almonds freshly peeled with two gills of cream, and press this forcibly through a napkin. Pound two hard boiled egg-yolks, with two ounces of fresh butter; season with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, rub it through a sieve, then add this to the bread-crumbs, seasoning with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, and also the cream almond milk, besides three gills of fresh cream. Chopped truffles may also be added to this sauce. (531). RAVIGOTE SAUCES, AROMATIC, WHITE, WITH OIL AND GREEN PRINTANIèRE (Sauces Ravigote, Aromatique, Blanche, à l'Huile et Printanière Verte). Aromatic Ravigote. -Fry in one ounce of butter, two ounces of onions, moisten with two gills of Chablis wine, three gills of consommé, (No. 189) and the juice of a lemon; add a piece of garlic the size of a pea, two chopped shallots, one ounce of chopped, pickled cucumbers, half an ounce of capers, some parsley roots cut in Julienne and blanched, branches of tarragon leaves, four cloves, two bay leaves, as much thyme, and some nutmeg; boil the whole slowly for half an hour, then strain it through a fine sieve; add this to one quart of espagnole (No. 414) . Reduce and add two spoonfuls of mustard; strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159) and incorporate into it two ounces of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of chopped chervil and half a teaspoonful of tarragon leaves, finely cut-up. White Ravigote. -Infuse in one gill of vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of chervil, a quarter of an ounce of tarragon, and a quarter of an ounce of pimpernel; add to the infusion one pint of velouté (No. 415) and one gill of white wine, then boil together for ten minutes; strain through a tammy (No. 159) and beat into the sauce two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Hot Ravigote with Oil. -Set into a saucepan three tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots with one gill of vinegar and three gills of white wine, reduce the liquid to half, then add to it a quart of velouté (No. 415) , beat it up with a wire whisk and stir into it three gills of oil, putting in a very little at a time and continuing to beat, then add a teaspoonful of mustard, a pinch of tarragon and the same of chopped chervil. Green Ravigote Printanière. -After picking and washing half an ounce each of chervil, tarragon, chives and pimpernel, blanch them all in a copper vessel containing boiling, salted water, leave them to boil for a few minutes, then drain and refresh them; drain once more, and press out all the water. Pound these herbs well, and mingle with them four ounces of butter, color with spinach green (No. 37) then rub the whole through a sieve, stir well this butter into a pint of velouté, (No. 415) add to it a spoonful of good vinegar some pepper and nutmeg; pass this sauce through a tammy (No. 159) . (532). RÉGENCE SAUCE (Sauce à la Régence). For Fat. -Set four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add four ounces of chopped onions; fry lightly and add two ounces of ham cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, eight ounces of minced mushrooms or their parings, branches of parsley, two bay leaves, as much thyme, two cloves and mignonette; fry all these ingredients together without coloring, moisten with two quarts of espagnole (No. 414) and a pint of chicken stock (No. 195) , cook the whole for forty-five minutes, skim and pass through a tammy (No. 159) . Put in a saucepan on the fire, three gills of white Bordeaux; when reduced to half, add a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles; heat well and put this in with the above sauce. For Lean. -Use fish stock (No. 195) instead of fat chicken stock, suppress the ham and replace it by sturgeon or carp. (533). ROBERT SAUCE (Sauce à la Robert). Fry slowly in a saucepan two white onions weighing six ounces, and cut into small squares, with two ounces of butter, in such a way that they are half cooked without browning, then drain off the butter, and moisten the onions with two gills of consommé (No. 189) , and one gill of white wine; reduce the sauce to a glaze, then moisten once more with three gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414) , reduced with one gill of veal blond (No. 423) ; add a coffeespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of vinegar, a tablespoonful of mustard, and a pinch of cayenne; let boil for a few minutes to enable the fat to be skimmed off, and keep the sauce warm in a bain-marie. (534). ROMAN SAUCE (Sauce Romaine). Mince two ounces of celery root and put it into a saucepan with a coffeespoonful of coriander seeds, the same quantity of powdered sugar, a small clove of garlic crushed and chopped, a bunch of parsley and basil garnished with two bay leaves, and a quarter of a bottleful of champagne; let simmer for thirty minutes, then add one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , and one gill of veal blond (No. 423) ; strain the whole through a tammy, and stir in two ounces of fresh butter and the juice of a lemon, also two ounces of Sultana raisins washed and boiled in half a gill of Madeira wine. (535). RUSSIAN SAUCE (Sauce à la Russe). Have two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish in a saucepan with one pint of velouté (No. 415) , a teaspoonful of chopped chives, a coffeespoonful of finely cut tarragon, a tablespoonful of mustard, and one gill of cream; season with salt and pepper, and add one teaspoonful of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a heavy pinch of finely minced fennel, heat the sauce without boiling. (536). SALMIS SAUCE, WITH WHITE WINE, WITH CHAMPAGNE, WITH RED WINE AND TRUFFLES (Sauce Salmis, au vin Blanc au Champagne, au vin Rogue et aux Truffes). With White Wine. -Fry in butter without coloring the broken carcasses of six quails or three partridges; add to this half a bottleful of white wine and some broth, a garnished bunch of parsley and a few mushroom parings, then let boil slowly for one hour. Make an espagnole sauce (No. 414) with this fumet, and when properly reduced add to it the pounded meats and fragments previously cut off from the carcasses; pass all through a tammy, and then pour in some game glaze (No. 398) and butter, just when ready to serve. With Champagne -Lay in a saucepan one pound of game carcasses, such as pheasants or grouse, after breaking them in pieces; to them add a quarter of a bottleful of champagne, two bay leaves, two minced shallots and one pint of broth; let all these simmer for half an hour before straining through a fine sieve, then reduce it to half with a pint of espagnole, adding another quarter bottleful of champagne and reduce it once more. Season with salt, black and red pepper, also grated nutmeg, and strain through a tammy, and just when ready to serve mix in two ounces of fresh butter. With Red Wine and Truffles. -Break up the carcasses of six snipes, or plovers, or woodcocks; fry them in some butter with their intestines, suppressing the gizzards and pouches, two bay leaves, as much thyme and as much basil, some truffle peelings, one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , and two gills of red wine. Boil, skim, and when prepared to serve squeeze in the juice of a lemon; strain the sauce through a tammy, (No. 159) , and add to it one or two ounces of peeled and minced truffles. (537). SHALLOT SAUCE AND SHALLOT GRAVY (Sauce à l'Échalote et au jus à l'Échalote). Blanch in boiling salted water three finely chopped shallots, placing them in the corner of a napkin; afterward cook them in a gill of consommé (No. 189) ; reduce this latter until dry, then add to it one gill of velouté (No. 415) . Now pound four hard boiled egg-yolks with six ounces of butter; put the preparation into a saucepan, and stir it while heating till it becomes very hot, then season with salt, mignonette and lemon juice; if too thick add a little water and then strain it through a tammy (No. 159) , and mix in a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley; stir it into the above prepared sauce. Shallot Gravy. -Put eight minced shallots, a small bay leaf, some thyme and branches of parsley in a saucepan, moisten with two gills of clear gravy (No. 404) and let all cook for ten minutes on the corner of the range; strain through a napkin, and keep the sauce warm in a bain-marie until needed. (538). SHARP SAUCE WITH CAPERS AND ONION PURÉE (Sauce Piquante aux Câpres et Purée d'Oignons). Sharp Sauce. -Reduce to one-half, five or six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, with some shallots, cut in one-eighth of an inch squares. Put on the fire to reduce, three or four gills of sauce espagnole (No. 414) free from all fat, one gill of veal blond, (No. 423) and then the above infusion, pouring it in slowly, and when the sauce is sufficiently succulent and thick, strain it into a saucepan and keep it warm in a bain-marie. Sharp with Capers, and Onion Purée -Add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) to a tablespoonful of good vinegar, and set them in a saucepan with a bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a little thyme, two cloves, and two gills of broth, also a pinch of powdered sugar; let the whole boil for fifteen minutes, then skim off the fat; strain through a tammy, and finish by adding two spoonfuls of capers, and two of onion purée. (539). CHOPPED SAUCE (Sauce Hachée). Add one tablespoonful of chopped shallots to one gill of vinegar; put them in a saucepan with one chopped and crushed clove of garlic; let boil slowly until thoroughly reduced then moisten with a gill of broth, and one pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) ; add two ounces of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of parsley, one of pickles, and one of small capers, all chopped separately, and just when serving, incorporate into the sauce two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. (540). SHRIMP SAUCE, SHRIMP AND CREAM SAUCE (Sauce aux Crevettes, Sauce aux Crevettes à la Crème). Shrimp Sauce. - Skin half a pound of cooked shrimps; pound their shells with a quarter of a pound of butter, and the juice of one lemon; pass this through a sieve. Cut the shrimps into dice shaped pieces. Boil one pint of white poivrade sauce (No. 522) , thicken it with two egg-yolks, and half a gill of fresh cream, and finish with a quarter of a pound of shrimp butter (No. 587) , adding a pinch of cayenne pepper, a coffeespoonful of fine herbs, and the pieces of shrimp. Shrimp and Cream Sauce. -Reduce one pint of béchamel (No. 409) with one gill of mushroom essence (No. 392) , and incorporate into this, two ounces of shrimp butter (No. 587) , a gill of cream, and two ounces of small dice pieces of shrimps; season with cayenne pepper and serve. (541). SHRIMP AND CRAB SAUCE (Sauce aux Crevettes et aux Crabes). Pour into a flat saucepan about one pint of béchamel sauce (No. 409) , let it reduce, and incorporate into it six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence (No. 392) and the same quantity of raw cream. When the sauce is very creamy, take it off the fire, and whisk into it gradually with a wire whip three ounces of fresh butter, and at the very last moment two ounces of shrimp butter (No. 587) . Season and serve it in a separate sauce -boat with the shrimp tails, cut up into small pieces if they are large, cut if small, leave them whole. Add the same quantity of crab meat cut the same size. (542). SICILIAN SAUCE (Sauce Sicillienne). Pour two gills of Marsala wine into a saucepan, adding to it one ounce of truffles and two ounces of mushrooms, both chopped; also two shallots, chopped, blanched and lightly fried in an ounce of butter; and also one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and the same of thyme, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Let all these simmer and reduce on a slow fire, then remove the parsley, and add four gills of allemande (No. 407) , and two of game (No. 389) , or chicken essence (No. 387), the juice of half a lemon, the same quantity of orange, besides the peel of the latter finely cut up and blanched, and a coffeespoonful of powdered sugar. (543). SOUBISE SAUCE (Sauce Soubise). Cut off the stalks and roots from twelve onions after having divided them in two, throw them into boiling salted water for a few minutes, then drain, refresh, and drain them again. Heat a half a pound of butter in a saucepan, add to it the onions and fry them without coloring until well done, then pour in a pint of velouté (No. 415) and half a pint of stock (No. 422) , some peppercorns and grated nutmeg. When the onions are sufficiently cooked, press them forcibly through a tammy (No. 170) and return the sauce to the saucepan on the fire, and add to it six gills of fresh cream; season properly, and incorporate in at the last moment a small piece of fresh butter. (544). SOUR SAUCE (Sauce Aigrelette). Put into a saucepan one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) with one ounce of meat glaze (No. 401) , some white pepper and nutmeg; beat the sauce well and stir in one gill of lemon juice, the same quantity of gooseberries or verjuice, also two ounces of fresh butter; strain through a tammy and serve. (545). SOYA SAUCE (Sauce Soya). Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) or espagnole (No. 414) with two gills of essence of either chicken, game or fish, and when the sauce is of a sufficient consistency, add to it two tablespoonfuls of soya sauce, and two ounces of fresh butter; beat in slowly with a whip. (546). PRINTANIèRE SAUCE (Sauce à la Printanière). Pick and wash half an ounce of chervil, half an ounce of chives, a quarter of an ounce of tarragon, and a quarter of an ounce of burnet. Throw these herbs into boiling salted water, to blanch for two minutes in an untinned copper vessel, drain, refresh, and drain once more to press out all the water; pound and add four ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of good vinegar and sufficient spinach green to color nicely; press this butter through a fine sieve and when prepared to use it, add it to a pint of hot allemande sauce (No. 407) ; season to taste and serve. (547). SUPREME SAUCE (Sauce Suprême). Remove the breasts from five chickens, break up the carcasses and second joints. Cut two pounds of kernel of veal into large squares, and cook them with the chicken bones, in half a pound of butter without allowing them to color, then moisten with seven quarts of velouté stock (No. 422) ; let boil, skim well, and season with salt, pepper, and a bunch of parsley garnished with basil and bay leaf, and continue to boil for two hours, being careful to skim off the top when necessary; then strain the whole through a fine sieve. Place a saucepan on a slow fire, containing one quarter of a pound of butter and as much flour; when cooked without coloring, moisten it with one and a half quarts of the above stock, and let it boil on one side of the stove only, so as to be able to skim it properly, now add a quarter of a bottleful of Sauterne wine, cook again, and despumate for two hours; strain the sauce through a tammy, and reduce with one pint of cream, and just when ready to serve, beat in a piece of fresh butter. (548). TARRAGON SAUCE (Sauce à l'Estragon). Reduce one pint of velouté (No. 415) , or espagnole (No. 414) with half a pint of chicken essence (No. 387) . Infuse a pinch of tarragon leaves in a gill of chicken essence, and add this infusion to the velouté or espagnole; strain all through a tammy, and just when serving throw in a tablespoonful of tarragon leaves cut in lozenges, and blanched in boiling water in an untinned copper pan. (549). TOMATO SAUCE (Sauce aux Tomates). Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saucepan, with half a pound of carrots, half a pound of onions, half a pound of bacon or un smoked ham, all cut in quarter inch squares, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and four cloves; when fried colorless, add eight pounds of tomatoes cut in two and well pressed; season with salt and mignonette, and moisten with a quart of moistening (No. 189) , then cook it all slowly for forty minutes. Make a blond roux (No. 163) with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pound of flour; dilute it with one quart of white stock (No. 422) , and the tomatoes; then strain the whole through a fine sieve or tammy (No. 159) , let it boil again, despumate the surface, and reduce it until it becomes the consistency of a sauce. (550). TOMATO SAUCE ANDALOUSE, À LA CONDÉ, À LA PARISIENNE (Sauce aux Tomates à l'Andalouse, à la Condé, à la Parisienne). Wash and cut in halves, four pounds of tomatoes, press them well to extract all their juice and seeds, then put the pulps into a saucepan with four ounces of minced onions, three bay leaves and as much thyme, four ounces of green peppers finely shredded, two ounces of mushroom parings, one clove of garlic, four ounces of ham, one pinch of saffron leaves, one small coffeespoonful of mignonette and one pint of espagnole (No. 414) ; let the whole cook for twenty minutes; then strain the sauce through a tammy (No. 159) , and stir into it at the last moment two ounces of fresh butter. A la Condé. -Fry eight ounces of minced onions in two ounces of butter, add four pounds of very ripe tomatoes cut in halves, and the juice and seeds extracted, three bay leaves and as much thyme; also some cayenne pepper. Let the whole cook on a slow fire, then drain and strain through a sieve, return the sauce to the saucepan, adding one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , reduce it to a proper consistency, and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) just before serving. Parisienne. -Have in a saucepan two ounces of chopped mushrooms with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a small crushed clove of garlic and two shallots, both finely minced, two ounces of bacon cut in dice, three bay leaves, the same quantity of thyme, a teaspoonful of whole peppers, salt, and four pounds of tomatoes, cut in halves, and their juice and seeds well extracted; also one pint of moistening (No. 189) . Let this all cook for twenty minutes, drain and strain through a sieve, add to the purée one pint of velouté (No. 415) , one pint of onion purée (No. 723) , four tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 401) and two ounces of fine butter. Before serving be assured that the sauce is seasoned properly. (551). TRUFFLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Truffes). Moisten one pound of chicken parings with three pints of velouté stock (No. 422) and a quarter of a bottleful of white wine; add to it a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, and as much thyme, a quarter of a pound of minced carrots, four ounces of onions, one branch of celery and one coffeespoonful of whole peppers; let it all simmer for two hours, then strain through a sieve and reduce the sauce to half, skimming it well in the meanwhile; now add one quart of allemande sauce (No. 407) , and reduce again with a quarter of a bottleful of white wine. Strain the whole through a tammy, and just when serving incorporate into the sauce four ounces of fresh butter and three ounces of peeled and minced truffles. (552). TURTLE SAUCE, FAT AND LEAN (Sauce Tortue Grasse et Maigre). Fat. -Pour into a saucepan three gills of dry Madeira wine, add two ounces of minced, lean ham, one pinch of mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, the same quantity of thyme and basil, two small green peppers, one chopped shallot, one ounce of truffles and two of mushrooms chopped separately. Let all these ingredients simmer and reduce on a low fire adding to them four gills of espagnole (No. 414) , two gills of concentrated veal blond (No. 423) , two gills of tomatoes (No. 730) , and add two more gills of Madeira wine; strain the sauce through a tammy and beat in when ready to serve two ounces of fresh butter. Lean. -Cut into slices half a pound each of carp, eels and pike; put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a bottle of white wine, one quart of water, one clove of garlic, four ounces of onions cut in four, two ounces of mushroom parings, a bunch of parsley containing basil, marjoram, thyme and bay leaf, some mace, mignonette and a pinch of cayenne. Let simmer and reduce the stock to half on a very slow fire, then strain it forcibly through a tammy, return it to the fire and add one pint of espagnole (No. 414) , and one gill of tomato purée (No. 730) ; reduce once more, pour in a quarter of a bottleful of champagne, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and when ready to use incorporate into the sauce two ounces of lobster butter (No. 580) . (553). LA VALLIèRE SAUCE (Sauce à la La Vallière). Reduce one quart of velouté (No. 415) with one quart of veal blond (No. 423) , and the broth obtained from cooking eight ounces of mushrooms, add one tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 401) and thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks diluted in half a gill of cream and two ounces of fresh butter. Strain through a tammy and add half a pound of channeled mushrooms (No. 118) . (554). VALOIS SAUCE (Sauce à la Valois). Boil two gills of white wine with one gill of vinegar and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, let the liquid reduce thoroughly, then remove it from the fire, let partly cool and stir in six egg-yolks, beat them up with an egg -beater and finish the sauce with four ounces of fine fresh butter slowly incorporated; strain and after returning it to the saucepan stir into it two ounces more of butter and mix in one spoonful of chopped parsley, or replace half the parsley by chopped tarragon leaves if preferred. (555). VENETIAN SAUCE (Sauce à la Vénitienne). Have ready in a steamer or bain-marie saucepan one pint of velouté sauce (No. 415) , and just when about serving add to it one gill of chicken (No. 398) or fish glaze (No. 399) , some salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of good vinegar; thicken the sauce with egg-yolks and cream, then add two ounces of fresh butter, and a coffeespoonful of fresh parsley, also a pinch of finely shredded tarragon leaves. (556). VENISON SAUCE (Sauce Venaison). Dilute in a saucepan five gills of poivrade sauce (No. 522) , and four ounces of currant jelly with half a bottleful of Burgundy wine, adding two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and the same quantity of sugar, also the pulp of a lemon; reduce for a few minutes, then strain through a tammy. (557). VICTORIA SAUCE (Sauce à la Victoria). Cover a saucepan containing one tablespoonful of finely chopped shallots and the juice of two lemons; let boil together, then add two ounces of well chopped mushrooms and boil again until these have evaporated all their moisture, then put in two gills of melted meat glaze. When ready to serve finish the sauce by mixing in a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of vinegar, the same of soya sauce (No. 545) , a pinch of tarragon leaves and one of parsley, besides two tablespoonsfuls of chopped up pickles. (558). VIENNESE SAUCE (Sauce à la Viennoise). This sauce is prepared with one pint of allemande sauce (No. 407) , seasoned with nutmeg, red pepper, and the juice of a lemon; finish it with four ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573) , and just before serving, throw in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. (559). VILLARS SAUCE (Sauce à la Villars). Into a pint of chicken essence (No. 387) add two tablespoonfuls of rice flour diluted in a gill of cold milk, also some salt, pepper and lemon juice, two ounces of cooked chicken cut in small squares and four chopped hard-boiled egg-yolks; work the sauce steadily, reduce properly, and add one gill of double cream, and two ounces of fresh butter. (560). VILLEROI SAUCE (Sauce à la Villeroi). Put into a sautoire with some butter two ounces of lean ham; fry for a few minutes, then drain off the butter and moisten the ham with one gill of white wine; reduce it until dry, then pour in a pint of velouté (No. 415) and season the sauce with mignonette and nutmeg; reduce again and then thicken with four egg-yolks diluted in a gill of cream; let the sauce boil up once or twice while stirring it at the bottom of the sautoire with a reducing spatula, then strain it through a tammy (No. 159) , and mix in with it some chopped and drained mushrooms, also a teaspoonful of chopped parsley or fine herbs. This sauce should be more consistent than allemande sauce and it is used only when beginning to cool, to coat cold meats. It can also be soubised by adding to it a few tablespoonfuls of soubise sauce (No. 543) . (561). WESTPHALIAN SAUCE (Sauce Westphalienne). Put three gills of white wine and half a pound of minced, lean Westphalia ham into a saucepan with a bunch of parsley garnished with one bay leaf and the same quantity of thyme, some mignonette, salt and nutmeg. Moisten the whole with two gills of veal blond stock (No. 423) , then reduce and finish with four gills of espagnole (No. 414) , reduce again to the proper consistency, then strain through a tammy, and just when ready to serve stir in two ounces of butter and the juice of a lemon; pass through a tammy and serve. (562). WHITE SAUCE; WHITE ENGLISH SAUCE AND WHITE SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER (Sauce Blanche, Anglaise et Sauce Blanche sans Beurre). Melt some butter in a saucepan and beat it with the same weight of flour; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten with water. Set it on the fire and stir constantly until it begins to bubble, then thicken it just before serving with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, adding the juice of a lemon; strain the sauce through a tammy and serve. White Sauce, English Style. -Infuse in a pint of boiling cream, the peel of one lemon, a coffeespoonful of white pepper corns , some thyme and a bay leaf, leaving them in for half an hour. Melt three ounces of butter, and stir in it two ounces of flour, fried without coloring, add the prepared infusion, straining it first through a fine sieve, also the juice of a lemon. Set the saucepan on the fire, and stir well till it boils, then leave it for a few minutes and incorporate into it three ounces of fine butter. White Sauce, Without Butter. -Break into a saucepan four raw egg-yolks, add to them one gill of olive oil, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Heat some water in a saucepan larger than the one containing the eggs and oil, set the smaller into the larger one, and as soon as the water is sufficiently hot that the hand cannot bear the heat then begin to stir it so as to mix the eggs with the oil; as quickly as the sauce is well thickened, take it from the saucepan and serve it at once, adding the juice of a lemon. This sauce should only be tepid, for if a degree warmer the egg-yolks coagulate and the oil separates from them. This sauce is excellent for artichokes and plain boiled asparagus. (563). YORK SAUCE (Sauce d'York). Made by reducing some vinegar with shallots, cut in eighth of an inch squares, and adding to it two or three spoonfuls of white bread-crumbs lightly fried in butter and some good gravy. Let the sauce cook for ten minutes on the side of the range, season to taste, and finish with some chopped parsley and lemon juice. (564). ZUCHETTE SAUCE (Sauce à la Zuchette). Reduce some brown espagnole sauce with the liquid part of drained tomatoes, add some dry mushrooms that have been previously soaked, moisten from time to time with a little veal blond stock (No. 423) . Pare some cucumbers in either clove of garlic or olive shape, blanch and cook these in white broth having just sufficient to moisten, so that when the cucumbers are done the stock will be thoroughly reduced. Strain the sauce through a tammy, put in the cucumbers and serve. HOT BUTTERS. (565). BLACK BUTTER (Beurre Noir). This butter is used for eggs, brains or fish. Put four ounces of butter in an omelet pan over a slow fire, and when it falls after raising, skim it off, and set it again on the fire; as soon as it is black, but not burned, season it with salt and mignonette. Strain it through a fine strainer over the eggs, etc. Throw a dash of vinegar in a hot pan, and pour it over the eggs through a fine strainer. (566). MELTED BUTTER (Beurre Fondu). Set four ounces of butter in a saucepan, season it with salt, pepper, mignonette, and the juice of a lemon; let it melt sufficiently to liquify it, or else melt it thoroughly, and let it settle, pouring off the top carefully, refraining from disturbing the sediment at the bottom. (567). HAZEL-NUT BUTTER (Beurre Noisette). Place four ounces of butter in a pan on the fire, and as soon as the froth falls, skim it carefully, and leave it on the fire until it begins to brown slightly, then let it settle and pour off the clear part; season with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, and throw this over fish or any other article, after straining it through a fine strainer. COLD BUTTERS. (568). ALMOND BUTTER (Beurre d'Amandes). Pound in a mortar, one ounce of peeled sweet almonds mixed with a few bitter ones; add four ounces of sugar, and moisten with a little milk, then stir in eight ounces of fresh butter, and beat it all well together, then press the whole through a fine sieve. (569). ANCHOVY BUTTER (Beurre d'Anchois). Wash an ounce of anchovies, wipe them well to remove the silver scales covering them, then pound them thoroughly, adding a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little cayenne pepper. Rub through a sieve and use when needed. (570). CAMBRIDGE BUTTER (Beurre Cambridge). Lay in a mortar and pound well, six hard boiled egg-yolks, with four well cleansed anchovies and a spoonful of chopped capers, also some tarragon and chives; when the whole is reduced to a paste, add to it one spoonful of English mustard, and the same quantity of French mustard, some salt, pepper, and vinegar, and one pound of fresh butter. Rub the compound through a sieve, and then mix in with it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. (571). CAYENNE, CHILI, PAPRIKA AND SWEET SPANISH PEPPER BUTTER (Beurre de Cayenne, Chili, Paprika, Piments doux d'Espagne). Mix into half a pound of fresh butter, either a full teaspoonful of cayenne pepper or Chili pepper, and two teaspoonfuls Hungary paprika pepper; add to it some salt, lemon juice and sweet Spanish pimentos. (572). CRAB BUTTER (Beurre de Crabes). Wash well some crab coral, then pound it in a mortar, adding double its quantity of butter, a dash of cayenne pepper and the juice of two lemons; press it through a sieve. (573). CRAWFISH BUTTER (Beurre d'Écrevisses). Have one pound of very red crawfish shells, pound them with two pounds of butter and when they are reduced to a paste, then put it into a saucepan and cook slowly until the butter be thoroughly clarified; strain it through a piece of muslin into a bowl, and as soon as the greatest heat has passed off, beat it up with a spoon till it becomes cold. If needed to be colored a deeper red, add a little orchanet melted in a little butter, or else some vegetal carmine. (574). FINE HERB BUTTER, COOKED (Beurre aux Fines Herbes Cuites). Fry in some butter a few blanched and finely chopped shallots, add to them a few well chopped truffles and fresh mushrooms, and let the whole get quite cold, then add to it some fresh butter, salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. (575). RAW FINE HERB BUTTER, (Beurre aux Fines Herbes Crues). Wash some parsley, chervil, tarragon, pimpernel, chives and water -cress leaves, and then cut them up finely. Wipe off a piece of fresh butter in a cloth, and beat it up in a warm basin until it becomes slightly creamy, then mix in with it gradually the raw fine herbs; season this butter with cayenne, salt and lemon juice. (576). GARLIC BUTTER (Beurre d'Ail). Blanch one ounce of garlic in plenty of water, drain and pound it well, adding half a pound of butter and seasoning with salt and red pepper. (577). BUTTER WITH GREEN GOOSEBERRIES (Beurre aux Groseilles à Maquereau). Have a pound of well picked green gooseberries; pound them well and then add to them one pound of fresh butter, pound again together and season with salt, pepper and fine herbs. (578). HORSERADISH BUTTER (Beurre de Raifort). Pound four ounces of scraped horseradish with eight ounces of butter, some salt and red pepper; then rub it through a sieve. If this butter be needed to add to a sauce, only put it in at the last moment. Horseradish should not be allowed to boil; neither should it be prepared too long in advance. (579). KNEADED BUTTER (Beurre Manié). Kneaded butter is frequently used at the last moment to thicken sauces and cooked small vegetables. In order to prepare this auxillary, it is necessary to lay a piece of butter on a plate or in a small vessel, and incorporate into it slowly with a wooden spoon, a sufficient quantity of flour to form a smooth paste, but not too consistent, so that it can easily be dissolved by the heat. (580). LOBSTER AND SPINY LOBSTER CORAL BUTTER (Beurre au Corail de Homard ou de Langouste). Lobster Butter. -Pound one pound of very red spiny lobster shells with two pounds of butter until they are reduced to a paste; put this into a saucepan till the butter be cooked and clarified, then strain it through a piece of muslin into a bowl. As soon as the butter has thrown off its first heat, begin beating it with a spoon till it gets cold, and if needed to be dyed a deeper red shade, then add to it a little orchanet, melted in a small quantity of butter, or clear vegetal carmine. Coral Butter. -Take some lobster eggs, also the red parts found in the interior of the body and crush them very finely in a mortar; mix in a piece of fresh butter four times the volume of the eggs; pass the whole through a Venice sieve and serve. (581). MAîTRE D'HôTEL BUTTER (Beurre Maître d'Hôtel). Mix in with some fresh butter, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. (582). MONTPELLIER BUTTER (Beurre Montpellier). Pick, wash, and blanch one pound of chervil, chives, tarragon, pimpernel, and water -cress; drain and refresh them, then press them well to extract all the water, and pound them in a mortar with six hard boiled egg-yolks, six well washed anchovies, five ounces of pickled gherkins, five ounces of dry capers, and add salt, pepper, and a piece of garlic the size of a pea; pound all together and rub the whole through a fine sieve, and when it has all passed, put two pounds of butter into the mortar, add the strained ravigote, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and one of tarragon vinegar; and mix it all thoroughly together. Montpellier butter should be a pretty, light green color. (583). RAVIGOTE OR GREEN BUTTER (Beurre à la Ravigote ou Beurre Voit). Made with one ounce of tarragon, two ounces of chervil, one ounce of chives, well washed, half an ounce of blanched parsley leaves, and one ounce of chopped and blanched shallot; pound all these herbs with half a pound of butter, and color it with some spinach green strained through a sieve. (584). SAFFRON BUTTER (Beurre de Safran). Lay a pinch of saffron on a plate and work it in a nut of butter with a spatula; it is then ready to use. (585). SHALLOT BUTTER (Beurre d'Échalotes). Peel and mince finely twelve shallots, then pound them, afterward adding half a pound of butter; rub the compound through a sieve. (586). SHRIMP BUTTER (Beurre de Crevettes). Pound one pound of shrimps without removing their skins, also two ounces of lobster coral; add to this one pound of fresh butter, some salt, cayenne pepper and the juice of a lemon, then press the whole through a sieve. COLD SAUCES. (587). APPLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Pommes). Apple Sauce. -Peel a pound of sound apples, suppress the cores and seeds and place them in a saucepan with a little water; when cooked drain and press through a sieve; reduce and add a little brown sugar and the juice of two oranges and their finely shredded peels that have been previously cooked in salted water. (588). CHANTILLY SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH À LA SANFORD (Sauce Chantilly au Raifort à la Sanford). Core a pound of sour apples, lay them in a saucepan with a little water; when done drain out and press through a very fine sieve. Add to the pulp one ounce of powdered sugar and two ounces of grated horseradish; stir well and beat in lightly the value of one pint of well-drained whipped cream. Serve this sauce separately with young ducks or goslings. (589). APPLE SAUCE, ENGLISH STYLE, (Sauce aux Pommes à l'Anglaise). Cut up one pound of peeled apples, small, cook them with a little water and a grain of salt; when dry mix in four spoonfuls of grated fresh horseradish; remove from the fire at once, and press through a sieve; mix into the pulp a spoonful of sugar and the juice of two oranges. Heat up without boiling, and remove as soon as the sugar is dissolved. This sauce can be served with all salted and smoked meats. (590). APPLE SAUCE FOR GOURMETS, APPLE SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH AND ORANGE JUICE (Sauce aux Pommes des Gourmets, Sauce aux Pommes au Raifort et jus d'Orange). Gourmets. -Take one pound of peeled apples, remove the seeds and put them in a saucepan with a little water, when cooked, drain and strain through a sieve, reduce and add a little brown sugar, the juice of two oranges and their peels finely cut up and boiled in salted water. With Horseradish and Orange Juice. -The same preparation as for apple sauce (No. 587) , adding the juice of two oranges and six tablespoonfuls of grated fresh horseradish. (591). SWEDISH APPLE SAUCE (Sauce aux Pommes Suédoise). Cut five or six apples into four quarters, peel and cook them in a little white wine, reduce all of their moisture, then press them through a sieve. Place this purée in a bowl and mix in with it about an equal quantity of finely chopped horseradish, thicken this preparation with a few spoonfuls of mayonnaise (No. 606) . This sauce is excellent for roast geese or roast pork, as well as for cold meats. (592). BOAR SAUCE (Sauce Sanglier). Grate half a pound of fresh horseradish, then lay it in a bowl with four ounces of cranberry jelly (No. 598) , adding a spoonful of mustard, the well chopped peel of one lemon and one orange, two ounces of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of sweet oil, mix all the ingredients well together and serve. (593). CHAUDFROID, BÉCHAMEL CREAM SAUCE, WITH TOMATO PURÉE AND WITH FECULA (Sauces Chaudfroid, Béchamel à la Crème, Béchamel à la Purée de Tomates et à la Fécule). Béchamel Cream Chaudfroid. -Is made with béchamel reduced with fowl or fish essence well despumated, and half its quantity of white chicken or fish jelly added. Béchamel Tomato Purée Chaudfroid. -Is a chaudfroid prepared the same as for the cream, adding to it a quarter of its quantity of red tomato purée strained through a very fine sieve. With Fecula. -Boil a quart and a half of chicken broth with six gelatine leaves and when well dissolved thicken with four ounces of fecula previously diluted in cold water. Mix with this chaudfroid half a pint of cream, strain it through a tammy (No. 159) , stir up well and dip into this chaudfroid once or several times the whole pieces of meat required to be glazed. (594). CHAUDFROID BROWN AND GAME (Chaudfroid Brun et Chaudfroid de Gibier). Put into a saucepan, one pint of very clear well-colored espagnole sauce (No. 414) , reduce it with some veal blond (No. 423) , and dilute with half its quantity of aspic jelly (No. 103) . Boil up the sauce and remove it at once to the side of the fire, in order to despumate it for ten minutes, skimming it well in the meantime; then take it off entirely and pass through a tammy. Before using try a little to find out whether it costs properly; if not strong enough add some gelatine. Game Chaudfroid. -Add one pint of game essence (No. 389) to half a pint of sauterne wine, moisten with game stock (No. 195) , and add one quart of well-reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414) , despumate and stir in one pint of jelly. The white wine may be replaced by Madeira. (595). CHAUDFROID GREEN OR RAVIGOTE (Chaudfroid Vert ou Chaudfroid Ravigote). Blanch in boiling and salted water, one handful of chervil, parsley, tarragon and pimpernel; drain and pound these with a few capers; press through a sieve and mix this purée with a velouté sauce (No. 415) , then reduce and despumate, adding some chicken stock (No. 195) ; reduce once more, and now add the juice of one lemon and some spinach green, also half its quantity of either meat, chicken, or game jelly. (596). CHAUDFROID WHITE WITH VELOUTÉ AND BLOND CHAUDFROID (Chaudfroid Blanc au Velouté et Chaudfroid Blond). Pour into a saucepan, one pint of velouté (No. 415) (for lean, use fish velouté); reduce it with half a pint of chicken broth (No. 188) , or veal stock (No. 423) , then add one pint of aspic jelly (No. 103) ; boil up this sauce, remove it to the side of the fire to be able to despumate for fifteen minutes, skimming it carefully in the meanwhile, then take it off the fire, strain, and try a little before using, to see whether it is sufficiently thick to cover the meats. For blond chaudfroid, add chicken glaze (No. 398) to white velouté (No. 415) . Thicken with Egg-yolks à l'Allemande. -Velouté (No. 415) reduced with essence of chicken (No. 387) well despumated, and thickened with egg-yolks, mixed with half as much melted white jelly. Blond Chaudfroid. -Is made with half brown and half white chaudfroid. (597). CHICKEN AND GAME SAUCE (Sauce pour Volaille et Gibier). This sauce is prepared with some sweet oil, the juice of a lemon, chicken or game gravy, chopped fine herbs, garlic, shallots, salt and pepper. (598). CRANBERRY SAUCE (Sauce aux Caneberges). Wash five pounds of cranberries, lay them in an untinned saucepan on the fire, with one quart of water, let cook slowly while stirring frequently, and when they are done add to them five pounds of sugar; pass them through a coarse colander, put in jars and set the jelly away in a cool closet. (599). CUMBERLAND SAUCE (Sauce à la Cumberland). Cook in salted water the finely shreded peels of two oranges and two lemons, and when they are tender put them into a vessel with one tablespoonful of mustard, a pinch of ground ginger, a pinch of cayenne pepper, a gill of Madeira wine, the juice of one orange and one lemon, some salt, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and mix in with these ingredients half a pound of currant jelly. (600). CURRANT OR GOOSEBERRY SAUCE WITH SUGAR (Sauce aux Groseilles Blanches ou Vertes au Sucre). Pick one pound of white currants from their stalks, or pick off the stems from one pound of gooseberries; blanch either one or the other, and then drain them on a sieve. Have cooked half a pound of sugar to the small crack, lay in the currants, let it boil up once, and then pour it into glasses to serve cold with meats, game or poultry. (601). CURRANT SAUCE WITH ORANGE (Sauce aux Groseilles à l'Orange). This is prepared with currant jelly diluted with port wine; add to it the rind of one orange grated on sugar and pressed through a sieve. Peel another orange and after shredding the peel very finely cook it in water, drain and then add it to the sauce, with the juice of the two oranges. (602). FINE HERBS SAUCE AND SHALLOTS WITH OIL (Sauce aux Fines Herbes, et aux Échalotes à l'Huile). This sauce is prepared with chervil, parsley, chives, and small squares of blanched shallots, also some tarragon leaves. Dilute a little mustard in oil and vinegar, season well, and stir in the above chopped fine herbs. Shallots with fine herbs and oil is made by mixing in with fine herbs, and oil is made by mixing in with one gill of vinegar, some salt, pepper, and two gills of sweet oil, chopped and blanched shallots, chopped tarragon and English mustard. (603). GREEN SAUCE (Sauce Verte). Wash some parsley leaves, chervil, tarragon, and burnet; plunge them into boiling water in a copper vessel, and blanch them for three minutes; drain, press out all the liquid, and then pound the herbs in a small mortar with a few chives added; press them through a sieve, and put into the same mortar a few hard boiled egg-yolks and some anchovy fillets; pound them also, and stir in gradually the green purée; dilute the preparation with some oil, vinegar and mustard, and finish the sauce with a spoonful of finely chopped pickled gherkins. (604). GREEN SPANISH SAUCE (Sauce Espagnole Verte). Pound to a paste one ounce of chervil and one ounce of parsley; add to it four ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in water and then squeezed out, six anchovy fillets, two ounces of chopped pickled gherkins, two ounces of capers, and one small chopped up onion; pound well the whole and then rub it through a sieve into a bowl, beat it well with some sweet oil, the same as for a mayonnaise, adding salt, pepper, and spinach green to color; soften the sauce with a little water. (605). HORSEDADISH AND CREAM SAUCE, AND WITH OIL (Sauce Raifort à la Crème, et à l'Huile). Put into a bowl a quarter of a pound of grated horseradish with an equal quantity of fresh bread-crumbs, a little sugar, some salt, the juice of two lemons, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a little white stock (No. 422) , also adding a pint of cream. This sauce is used with cold meats. With Oil. -Cut some slices of lemon after suppressing the yellow and white rind; put them into a vessel with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, some chopped parsley, tarragon, grated horseradish and a little ground pepper; mix all well together. Broiled fish may be served with this sauce. (606). MAYONNAISE SAUCE (Sauce Mayonnaise). In order to obtain a quick and certain mayonnaise sauce, it must be worked simply with a small wire whisk. Put five egg-yolks into a bowl suppressing every particle of the white, add some salt, white or red pepper, and ground mustard; after these are thoroughly mixed pour in slowly a quart of sweet oil and one gill of vinegar, alternating them without once stopping to work vigorously. In a few minutes the sauce becomes voluminous, consistent, smooth and firm. (607). MAYONNAISE SAUCE À LA BAYONNAISE (Sauce Mayonnaise à la Bayonnaise). Lay five egg-yolks in a bowl with a quarter of a gill of water, half an ounce of salt, a little pepper and a little cayenne, then beat it up and incorporate slowly into it two and one-half pints of oil and one gill of vinegar, stirring it unceasingly, and when the sauce thickens add to it more vinegar, and continue pouring in the oil and vinegar till they are both consumed. It must be of a high consistency, of a white color, and of a good flavor; it is preferable to use a wire whisk in place of a wooden spoon for this purpose. Add to this mayonnaise half a pound of lean Bayonne ham, cut in squares, some powdered Spanish peppers, and some chopped parsley. (608). MAYONNAISE CARDINAL (Sauce Mayonnaise Cardinal). Pound one ounce of lobster coral with a little vegetal carmine, a teaspoonfu