The Practical Housekeeper Containing 5000 Receipts & Maxims. 
 
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inside the ring. 
 
 A PLACE FOR EVERYTHING & EVERYTHING  IN
ITS PLACE  
  
 
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word FORWARD on top and CLAUDIA Q. MURPHY on the bottom. 
 
 
 Illustration of man in front of a stand of books reading a book
entitled salads. 
 
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 If, through respect or love, I lend,  This volume to my worthy
friend She must not soil, abuse or tear, But read with diligence and
care. And when its contents she has  learned, Promptly it must be
returned. 
 (From an old southern cook book).  
        
   THE 
 PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER;   A
CYCLOPÆDIA OF DOMESTIC ECONOMY EMBRACING DOMESTIC EDUCATION. THE HOUSE AND
ITS FURNITURE. DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS. DUTIES OF THE SERVANT. THE STORE-ROOM
AND MARKETING. DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. CARE OF CHILDREN AND THEIR FOOD. THE
TABLE AND ATTENDANCE. THE ART OF COOKERY. RECEIPTS UNDER FORTY-FIVE HEADS.
FAMILY BILLS OF FARE. PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET. INFUSIONS AND COSMETICS.
POMMADES, VINEGARS, SOAPS, ETC. THE FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. MISCELLANEOUS
RECEIPTS, ETC. COMPRISING FIVE THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND MAXIMS.
 Illustrated with Five Hundred Wood
Engravings.  
 EDITED BY  MRS.
ELLET, AUTHOR OF "THE WOMEN OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION,"
ETC.  NEW YORK: STRINGER AND
TOWNSEND, No. 222 BROADWAY. 1857.  
  
 ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the
year 1857, by  STRINGER & TOWNSEND, In the Clerk's Office of the
District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New
York. 
 PRINTED BY J. APPLEBY, 82 & 84
Beckman st.  
  
 TO  Mrs. C. Wilkins,  OF PHILADELPHIA,  THIS
VOLUME IS INSCRIBED BY  THE EDITOR.  
   
  
 PREFACE. 
 THE importance of the subject treated in this volume will be universally
acknowledged; the only question is, was there a place yet to be filled among
the number of books on cookery? 
 No complete system of Domestic Economy, within the limits of a convenient
manual, has been published in this country; yet in many matters besides cookery
does the inexperienced housewife need instruction and guidance. It has been a
study, in this volume, to reduce to practical rules the best theories
concerning an extensive and varied range of household duties, and to furnish
simple and useful directions in each branch of this most interesting of
sciences, that the work might be safely consulted in all matters relating to
the manifold responsibilities of the housekeeper. 
 While endeavoring to make this manual or cyclopedia so complete as to meet
all the wants of those who lack experience, care has been taken to arrange the
various departments  with clearness and method. A
carefully prepared and copious index will at once direct the reader to any
thing wanted. 
 An unusually large variety of receipts is given for soups, sauces, and
meats; because it was desirable to include the latest improvements, and because
the want of variety in such preparations is generally complained of in American
cookery. The French having so much the advantage of us, it is as well to learn
something more of their boasted art, that those who choose may avail themselves
of the knowledge. A number of choice receipts from very recent French and
English works, have been added to those contributed by American housekeepers of
long experience and tried skill. 
 Some valuable receipts, never made public, have been furnished for this work
by Mr. Delmonico, Mr. Taylor, Mr. Wagner, and Mr. Sneckner,--all proprietors of
celebrated establishments in New York. 
 The Toilet Department, and Perfumery, do not strictly belong to
Housekeeping, but some knowledge of them is desirable for every lady, and fair
readers will not object to the space and attention devoted to these
matters. 
 The Family Medical Guide is not designed to interfere with the province of
the physician, but to furnish simple and approved recipes for use when medical
advice cannot be procured, and palliatives to promote the comfort of the
sick. 
 The Miscellaneous Department will be found to include  many new receipts, as also the section of Preparations for
Invalids. 
 The numerous cuts, illustrating housekeeping articles, &c., contained in
no other work of the kind, are nearly all from drawings furnished to the
Publishers by the kindness of Mr. J. C. Berrian, 601 Broadway, and Mr. Stephen
William Smith, 534 Broadway, near Spring street, New York.  
   
   CONTENTS.
{Two column format} PART I. CHAPTER I. {right align over the page number}PAGE
Thoughts and Maxims on Housekeeping, . . .15 CHAPTER II. The Dwelling House,
&c., ............. 18 CHAPTER III. Furnishing a House,
...................... 21 CHAPTER IV. Plate, Cutlery, House-linen,
&c.,........ 24 CHAPTER V. Servants,................................. 26
CHAPTER VI. Duties of the Housewife. The Dinner...... 31 CHAPTER VII. Duties of
the Servants,................... 41 CHAPTER VIII. The Care of
Children,..................... 46 CHAPTER IX. The Care of the
Sick,..................... 50 CHAPTER X. The Store-room and
Marketing,.............. 53 CHAPTER XI. Domestic
Manipulation,..................... 59 CHAPTER XII. Decanting, Straining and
Filtering Liquids, 65 CHAPTER XIII. The Manufacture and Use of Cements,........
69 CHAPTER XIV. Powdering, Grinding, &c.,.................. 72 CHAPTER XV.
Knots, Parcels, &c.,....................... 74 CHAPTER XVI. Adulteration of
Food and Purity of Water,.. 78 CHAPTER XVII. Boiling, Stewing,
&c.,..................... 81 CHAPTER XVIII. Economy of
Heat,........................... 84 CHAPTER XIX. Cleaning and
Disinfecting,................. 88 CHAPTER XX. Fermenting and
Distilling.................. 91 CHAPTER XXI. Laying out Tables and Folding
Napkins,..... 94 CHAPTER XXII. Trussing and Carving,......................103
CHAPTER XXIII. Culinary Utensils,.........................116 CHAPTER XXIV.
Cookery as an Art,.........................124 CHAPTER XXV. Foreign Terms used
in Cookery,.............126 CHAPTER XXVI.
Condiments,................................129 CHAPTER XXVII. Rudiments of
Cookery,......................136 CHAPTER XXVIII. Hints and
Maxims,..........................148 CHAPTER XXIX. Articles in Season for each
Month,.........149  {right align over the page
number}PAGE PART II. Receipts for Soups,............................ 155 Meat
Soups,.................................... 156 Soups of Game, Poultry,
&c.,................... 171 Vegetables,....................................
179 Fish Soups,.................................... 185
Fish,.......................................... 188 Shell
Fish,.................................... 204 Sauces for
Fish,............................... 214 Gravies, Sauces,
&c.,...................... 218
Ketchups....................................... 242 Farces and
Stuffings........................... 243 Receipts for Dressing
Beef,.................... 249 Receipts for Dressing Veal,....................
276 Receipts for Dressing Mutton,.................. 296 Receipts for Dressing
Lamb,.................... 311 Receipts for Dressing Pork,....................
318 Sausages and Forcemeat,........................ 337 Curing Meat, Potting
and Collaring,............ 341 Poultry and Game,..............................
356 Venison,....................................... 374
Vegetables,.................................... 376
Salads,........................................ 390 Pickles and Store Room
Sauces,................. 393 Paste, Meat, Game and Fish Pies................
406 Fruit Pies, Puffs, &c.,........................ 423
Puddings,...................................... 436 Sweet
Puddings,................................ 439 Italian
Pastes,................................ 450
Rice,.......................................... 452
Cheese,........................................ 454 Pancakes,
Fritters,............................ 457 Various Modes of Cooking
Eggs,................. 459 To Make Bread,................................. 464
Biscuits and Warm Cakes,....................... 467
Butter,........................................ 472 Cakes,
&c.,................................... 473 Custards, Creams, Jellies,
&c.,............... 486 Coffee, Tea and Chocolate,..................... 494
Preserves, &c.,............................... 498
Beverages,..................................... 510 Wines and
Liqueurs,............................ 514 Cookery for the
Sick,.......................... 517 Food and Cookery for
Children,................. 526 Savory Dishes for
Breakfast,....................529 Bills of
Fare,..................................532 PART III.
Perfumery,..................................... 537 Essences and
Extracts,......................... 538 Compound Odors, or
Bouquets,................... 542 Spirituous
Infusions,.......................... 543 Oils for the
Hair,............................. 545
Cosmetics,..................................... 546
Powders,....................................... 546
Soaps,......................................... 547 Cold
Creams,................................... 547
Pommades,...................................... 548 Salves and
Balsams,............................ 549
Vinegars,...................................... 549
Salts,......................................... 551
Cassolettes,................................... 551
Sachets,....................................... 552 Hair
Washes,................................... 553 Fumigating
Paper,.............................. 553 Pastilles for Necklaces, Bracelets,
&c.,....... 554 Hair Dyes,..................................... 554
Depilatory,.................................... 555 Shaving
Pastes,................................ 555 The Family Medical
Guide,...................... 556 Miscellaneous
Receipts,........................ 567
Index,......................................... 583 
 
  
 PART FIRST. 
 THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS ON HOUSEKEEPING.   
 THE  PRACTICAL
HOUSEKEEPER. 
 PART I.  THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS
ON HOUSEKEEPING. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 DR. STARK says, "The only test of the utility of knowledge is its promotion
of the happiness of mankind." Viewed thus, the subject we are about to treat
presents claims superior to most others, and is eminently worthy of study. The
superintendence of a house, and the management, forethought, domestic economy,
and good sterling sense requisite for the discharge of this duty, demand
application and perseverance, and ought to receive as much, at least, as is
bestowed on the acquisition of music, painting, or any of the ornamental
accomplishments. Young ladies are educated to shine in society; would it not be
well if they were also sedulously taught--by a system of training--to perform
the homely duties which make home the abode of comfort? 
 It has been said that Americans in general have little attachment to home.
Often, indeed, is the domestic comfort, so prized in England, absent from the
abodes even of the wealthy, in our land. May not this undeniable fact, and the
roving propensity of young people in this country, be attributable to the
circumstance that girls, whose condition exempts them from servitude, are
brought up wholly without reference to home duties? Even those who may depend
on their own labor for a subsistence, are taught some trade, or superficially
qualified as teachers, or instructed in various branches of needlework; while
they know little or nothing of household matters; though such knowledge would
enable them to command an independence. It is not alone the wife and mother who
should be skilled in domestic affairs; every girl who has emerged from
childhood, is liable to be called on to take charge of a house. If the mother
is bedridden, or deceased, why should the father of daughters sixteen or
eighteen years old be compelled to look elsewhere for a housekeeper, and
intrust the management to the hands of a stranger? 
 The general cultivation of this valuable knowledge, too, would make the
occupation of a "help," or servant, more acceptable to thousands who now prefer
starvation in a garret, or the ruin of health in sedentary employments. The
more attention is turned to this branch of learning, the more will its
importance be recognized, and the higher place will it assume in the list of
useful arts; and a degree of respect being accorded to those who excel, more
will be found ready to engage in it as a profession. What an improvement would
be made, by such a result, in our social and domestic life! 
 We would not be understood to say  that we would
have a woman merely an upper servant in the house it is her province to guide,
or that we undervalue intellectual attainments and elegant occupations. But it
will not detract from the charm of these, nor from the dignity of the well-bred
lady--to be familiar with the routine of domestic duties, well acquainted with
the minutiæ of household economy, and competent to direct, or if need be,
teach her servants; ay, even, to do things herself in cases of necessity. On
the other hand, will it not enhance admiration and strengthen regard, to see
that she possesses these acquirements, and is willing to exercise them to
promote the comfort of others? Who can tell that she may not, at some period of
life, be thrown into circumstances where the mere fine lady would be utterly
helpless, or where intellectual refinement and distinguished position may prove
less available than industry, ingenuity, and practical common sense? 
 What is a kingdom, a merchant's counting-house, or a mechanic's workshop
without a head? We do not mean a mere master, but a presiding intellect to
plan, contrive, direct, and guide. Not less absolute or important is the rule
of a sensible woman in her own home. She has full scope for the exercise of
good taste, prudence, and refinement. She is invested with an amount of
responsibility she perhaps never dreamed of, for her influence over the temper,
habits, actions, and dispositions of those about her is very great, and great
in proportion should be her self-government, for with self the command must
begin, if it is to be worth having. 
 There is much talk, nowadays, about the "rights" and "mission" of woman.
Without entering into the merits of the subject, we would only say, that if
women, from the highest to the lowest, were systematically educated to wield
properly the great power they indubitably possess--a power which can be made to
move the secret springs of action and the machinery of business--they would
have little reason to complain of the want of influence; and were they so
trained to enter actively and energetically into domestic employments and
affairs, that none could deem it a pursuit unworthy of them, they would find
ample scope for the exercise of their faculties, and the acquisition of means
to live. 
 There is a medium, however, in all things. A woman who worries all within
her reach by her ultra-housewifery, who damps one down with soap and water,
poisons one with furniture polish, takes away one's appetite by the trouble
there is about cooking the simplest thing, and fidgets one by over-done
tidiness and cleanliness, is almost as much to be avoided as a downright slut,
or the veriest simpleton who ever took counsel with her stupid servant as to
how long a potato ought to be boiled; she exercises a pernicious influence on
all, and is a misery to herself and others. 
 Neither would we have domestic economy and home duties vaunted, or made the
constant theme of conversation; they are the private employments of a woman;
she must study other things in order to entertain her relatives and friends.
Those who talk most of their duties are generally those who perform them most
imperfectly. When a man returns to his home, or enters his sitting-room,
fatigued and perhaps disappointed by the business of the day, he does not want
to be annoyed by the detail of domestic accidents, the misdemeanors of
servants, and the cheating of tradespeople; he has had 
 his  worries during the day, too, and, with that
pride, or reserve, or want of confidence which is peculiar to most men, he
perhaps keeps them to himself. Let his example be followed in all cases where
advice, or support, or assistance is not absolutely necessary,  and pleasant, cheerful themes be chosen, or some amusement
selected which shall render the evening and leisure hours those of relaxation
and enjoyment, and tend to give a charm and zest to home which no other place
can possess. Men are free to come and go as they list, they have so much
liberty of action, so many out-door resources if wearied with in-doors, that it
is good policy, if nothing else, to make home attractive as well as
comfortable. 
 An education in household matters should be complete--comprising the
knowledge requisite for use in all departments. 
 Many a girl can make good pastry, jellies, &c., for an evening party,
and being much complimented for her labors by those who relish the produce,
forthwith fancies herself a capital housewife, while, in all probability, she
scarcely knows how vegetables are cooked, is profoundly ignorant of the prices
of the commonest articles of daily consumption, and could not tell of what
material a housecloth ought to be made. And how few there are who could, in
case of need, make a cup of good gruel, or a glass of white-wine whey, or even
a little broth or barley-water! We do not say that they could not manage to
produce something resembling these things, but the capricious appetite of the
invalid would reject the tasteless messes. Many have suffered martyrdom from
this one neglected branch of female education. 
 Perhaps few branches of female education are more useful than great
readiness in figures. Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the smallest
article omitted to be entered. If balanced every week or month, the income and
outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to each
other duly observed. Some people fix on stated sums to be appropriated to each
different article, as house, clothes, pocket, education of children, &c.
Whatever may be the amount of household expenditure, a certain mode should be
adopted and strictly adhered to. Besides the regular account-book, in which the
receipt of money and every payment should be regularly entered, a common-place
book should be always at hand for the entry of observations regarding
agreements with servants, tradesmen, and various other subjects, so as to
enable the lady at once to ascertain the exact state of the affairs under her
immediate management. 
 A minute account of the annual income and the times of payment should be
taken in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each article
of expense; and those who are early accustomed to calculations on domestic
articles will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their establishment
requires, as will enable them to keep the happy medium between prodigality and
parsimony. 
 Some aver that they have no capacity for this matter, no taste for that. But
if the things referred to are duties, cultivate a taste--perserve in
endeavoring to improve a capacity for them. This world is a beautiful one,
spite of what grumblers say, and thousands would find it a much happier one if
they studied more what they ought to do, and sought their pleasure or indulged
their fancies less. Every human being exercises some influence on the
character, happiness and destinies of others, and is accountable for
opportunities wasted, and blessings neglected or transformed. This is
especially true of women. Every sensible, high-minded, right-hearted woman, be
she peeress or peasant--is, or may be, a blessing to many; if not by great
deeds or achievements the world calls heroic, by a simple, quiet,
straightforward performance of the duties which lie before her, and are
therefore given her to do.  
 As it is the business of man to provide the means of living comfortably, so
it is the province of woman to dispose judiciously of those means, and maintain
order and harmony in all things. On her due performance of her part rest the
comfort and social peace of home; while misery and ruin follow her neglect.
Some women, it is true, are placed in an unnatural position by having the
burden of supporting the family thrown upon them. They have double duties, and
a harder part to sustain; but their toils may be materially lightened by care
and method in what they have to do. 
 So much by way of exordium. We shall now proceed through the various matters
appertaining to a house, endeavoring to present a clear chart of the necessary
business, pointing out hidden rocks, and showing how these may be avoided, and
the vessel sent to float in calm waters. With much labor we have
collected information on all subjects that fall within the proper scope of
housekeeping; and multifarious as these are, it is our belief that she who
consults our index will be sure to find whatever she can wish to know. 
 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 THAT sensible and oft-quoted old lady, Mrs. Glasse, begins one of her
recipes thus: "First catch your hare." Following so good an example, we will
first take a house and furnish it, before laying down axioms for its
management. 
 Before any steps are taken, the income or pecuniary means of the parties
about to commence housekeeping, should be well considered. It is not well to
rush into matrimony without due attention to such sublunary matters as dollars
and cents; for the notion that when once a couple is married, all will go
right, is a foolish one. A young man with an income of four or five hundred
dollars, every cent of which has been annually swallowed up by his own
expenses, falls in love with a young lady who can sing and play well, speak
French and produce marvels in the way of crochet or ornamental work, who loves
sentimental poetry and romance, and can trim herself a neat bonnet; but knows
little of the realities of life. Having never known what it is to want any
thing--she has no idea that any thing can be wanted. The young man feels
certain in his own mind that a wife will be an actual saving to him; and makes
an eloquent declaration of his affection. The prospect for the future is but
slender; for he ignores the fact that he has been accustomed to spend half his
income on clothes and amusements, which he does not think of doing without; and
she forgets how much she is in the habit of spending on gloves, ribbons,
perfumes, et cetera. When they are married--the bridal dress and entertainment
not being reckoned among their expenses--they find themselves fettered by a
thousand inconveniences, and obliged to deny themselves travelling and many
other kinds of recreation; more than that, they discover that the etiquette of
this enlightened age, imperiously demands reckless expenditure, when common
sense would advise more than usual economy; and without losing the social
position they aim to preserve, they can do nothing but submit. What an effect
on the success of after-life must be such a beginning! 
 However, we do not consider it our mission to enter on Quixotic quarrels
with the ways of the world. It is, as our young people soon find-- 
 "A very good world to live in, To lend, to spend, or to
give in; But to beg, or borrow, or get one's own, 'Tis the very worst
world that ever was known." 
 In taking a house, the first matters to  be
considered, are the rent we can afford to give, or the money that can be
devoted to its purchase, and the locality that suits us best. 
 A dwelling in town affords many opportunities for social intercourse,
amusement, and the acquisition of general knowledge; a suburban residence
offers some advantages in healthiness of location and convenience. The remote
country has a distinct class of enjoyments, though want of society often makes
time pass slowly. Where locality is not specified, always choose one as open
and airy as may be, and where the soil, or at any rate the subsoil, is not
clay, where the drainage is good, and there is an ample supply of water, and no
neighboring factories giving out noxious gases and poisonous smoke and vapor.
Too close a vicinity to a churchyard is likewise to be avoided. Of course, the
house must be capable of accommodating the family who are to occupy it, and
there should always be a spare room or two which can be used for bed-rooms, or
other purposes in case of emergency. There should be closets, cellars, &c.,
and good ventilation front and back. A fee to a well-qualified surveyor is
often well bestowed; for he may detect serious faults in a house which, to an
ordinary observer, seems well built and comfortable. 
 The agreement with the landlord should be clearly understood, and all
liabilities as to taxes, local rates, house repairs, with charges for fixtures,
&c., inquired into, and definitely arranged, before the agreement is
signed. 
 It will be well for every house to have some shelter at its entrance; a
porch or portico, in a style regulated by that of the rest of the building,
will be found useful. A hall, vestibule, or entry, is essential, and the size
and location of the staircases considerably affect the convenience of the
dwelling. The dining-room should be so placed that the way to it from the
kitchen is easy, and yet so that the noise or odors do not prove annoying. The
general style of the drawing-room should be light and cheerful; that of the
library plain and quiet. The bed-chambers should be as lofty and spacious as
possible, and so contrived that a thorough draught can be obtained, to change
the air completely. Each should have a chimney fireplace. Small closets and
recesses are to be avoided as sleeping apartments. The nursery should be near
the chamber of the mistress. 
 Dressing and bath-rooms should be as uniformly attached to bed-rooms as the
size of the house and means of the owner will permit; the bath is an
indispensable convenience. Every house should be provided with two
water-closets at least. In large establishments, a breakfast-room looking
eastward and with glass doors opening on a garden or lawn, a billard-room for
exercise within doors, a room for hunting and fishing tackle, a gallery for
music, paintings, or statuary, a lady's boudoir or sitting-room tastefully
ornamented, a school-room, and domestic laboratory, with a conservatory, are
convenient additions. A number of rooms for domestic offices are connected with
the house, and various cellars, as well as separate buildings, appropriated to
many different purposes--which we shall not describe particularly. The kitchen
will be examined under another head. 
 In contriving the mode of warming a house, attention should be paid not
merely to economy of fuel, but to the preservation of a salubrious atmosphere.
A chimney fireplace or grate is preferable to a stove, which is apt to give the
air a close or disagreeable smell, and produce headache and stupor. Count
Rumford imagined that the hot iron roasted the dust that settled on it, which
dust was composed of all sorts of animal and vegetable matters; others complain
of  the extreme dryness of the air. Stoves of brick
or earthenware, used in various parts of Europe, are said to be better than
iron; but all close stoves are liable to the objection, that in using them it
is difficult to change the air continually, or procure proper ventilation. The
same difficulties prevail, to some extent, in warming a house by a furnace, and
the dryness of the air is often productive of discomfort. Steam might afford an
agreeable and convenient method of warming apartments. Of all the modes usually
adopted, the advantage seems to lie with the open fire. The temperature should
be steady and not too high: say 60° or 62°. Apartments in our cities
are generally kept at a dangerous degree of heat. Bed-rooms should not be
warmed, more than to have the "outside chill" taken off. 
 Ventilation is a very important consideration. The atmospheric air in
breathing loses the constituent that sustains life, and must be got rid of, and
replaced by air that is fresh and pure. This change of air should be
continually going on in our apartments. Windows that open at the top are
useful, the vitiated air ascending to the ceiling. The practice of sleeping in
rooms not sufficiently ventilated, is utterly destructive to health. It should
be remembered also that the vital part of air is exhausted by a burning light.
It would be well to have a ventilator in the centre of the ceiling, which can
be concealed by ornamental work in plaster; and in the admission of fresh air,
care should be taken that it does not come in a direct stream, so as to produce
unpleasant draughts. 
 It is often necessary to fumigate or disinfect the air contaminated by
noxious effluvia. Muriatic acid and nitric acid fumes have been employed for
this purpose, and chlorine, a most effectual agent in destroying noxious
qualities in the air, is generally employed. Chloride of lime and chloride of
soda are used as the most convenient preparations. The latter is called
Labarraque's Disinfecting Liquid. Vinegar is used in sick rooms, and quick
lime, alone or mixed with ashes, in sinks, sewers, &c. 
 Having taken our house, it generally wants a thorough cleaning and airing.
In spring, autumn, and winter, fires should be kept for three or four days,
according to the time the house has been empty, and to the repairs it has
undergone during that interval; for of course nobody ought to enter a house in
the state of dirt and disrepair in which it is usually left by an out-going
tenant, or if they do so under the notion that the landlord will set it all to
rights after they are in, they will find out their mistake, and repent their
confidence. 
 It sometimes happens that the chief rooms are not papered and painted until
the house is let. In such case the in-coming tenant generally has the power of
choosing the papers, or panellings, and paint. He will, of course, select such
as will best harmonize with the color which the furniture and hangings should
have. 
 We will now suppose the house taken, cleaned 
 thoroughly,  and well aired, and will proceed to
furnish it. But first we must pause to observe that young people will do well
carefully to consider matters before they take upon themselves the troubles and
responsibilities of housekeepers. Where their joint savings, or some sum
especially bestowed for the purpose by friends or parents, will enable them to
make the necessary outlay for furniture, linen, &c., and yet have something
left to put by for "a wet day," and the rent and taxes can be afforded by the
income of the husband, it is all well and good. But if money must be borrowed,
or debts incurred, begin life in the quietest way, rather than with these
incumbrances. Take board or apartments  for a time,
until you see your way clear. From $150 to $400 a year will pay for part of a
house in a city, and much less in a village. Board can be obtained in
respectable houses at four or five dollars a week and upwards in our largest
towns. There are some disadvantages in this mode of living. It is customary to
say that boarders are victimized; one is sometimes brought into contact with
disagreeable individuals, who become enemies if they find they are not received
in a sociable or friendly manner; and on the whole, it is wiser to keep house
with three or four rooms. There are always respectable families to be found,
who will let a set of apartments. 
 Now to the business of furnishing a house. 
 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 HERE again the unsentimental consideration of dollars and cents obtrudes
itself. The limit to which we can go is dependent upon the funds in hand which
may be expended without incurring debt or causing inconvenience. 
 It would be curious to trace the history of furniture in different ages and
countries. But we have no space for such a review. The taste has been revived
of late years, for pieces of ancient furniture, and the skill of cabinetmakers
has been brought into requisition to produce imitations of the antique style,
or tasteful restorations, by the putting together of fragments, interesting
from singular or historical associations. 
 Window curtains contribute much to the comfort and elegance of apartments,
tempering the light, and excluding the cold air. They may be of various
patterns and materials. 
 The hall, or entry, should be furnished with an umbrella and hat stand, and
chairs or hall seats. If there is a closet for hanging up hats, cloaks,
&c., it should be near the door. Door scrapers should always be placed at
the entrance. 
 
 PICTURES ON THE WALL. 
 Pictures, if well chosen, add much to the appearance of a room, and impart
to it an air of completeness, and a home look, which many people know how to
appreciate. To produce this effect, the subjects of the pictures must be such
as we can truly sympathize with, something to awaken our admiration, reverence,
or love. All the feelings of our nature may be illustrated by pictures. There
are some which we seem to make bosom companions of; others have a moral effect,
and at times prevent our going astray by their silent monitions. It is,
therefore, worth while to take pains and choose good subjects, whether in
engravings or paintings, and to frame and hang them suitably when chosen. Gilt
frames are most suitable for rather dark paintings, and on a deep colored wall;
while prints look well in a frame of composition, oak, rose-wood, or bird's-eye
maple, finished with a gilt moulding. Care should be taken to hang them in a
proper light, so as best to bring out all the effects of the pictures, and to
place them so that the light shall fall from the same side as represented by
the painter. In picture galleries and great houses, brass rods are fixed all
around the room close to the ceiling, from which the pictures are hung, but in
small rooms it is often best not to show the lines or wires by which the
pictures hang. This is done by nailing a strong cord across the back, about two
inches below the top, and then suspending it from two nails standing out but a
little way from the wall. When there are several pictures in a room, the
ordinary rule is, to have either the upper or lower edge of the frames in a
line, on whichever side they may be hung. 
  
 For bed-room furniture, mahogany, maple-wood, and oak, are the best
and prettiest; there are also very serviceable, well-polished, stained wood
imitations of all these three; and there are, too, very common and trumpery
imitations, which turn shabby in a few months, and are generally badly put
together, and do no service; two good chairs are worth a dozen of such
rubbish. 
 As a general rule we should advise avoidance of all cheap, showy furnishing
establishments: likewise, unless you are wealthy, of all fashionable
upholsterers. Patronize good, old-established houses of business. 
 Never buy second-hand bedsteads, bedding, or hangings, unless you are well
convinced that no more than you bargain for is included in the purchase. 
 Iron and brass bedsteads, which can now be had of every size, form, and
price, are far preferable, both as regards health, cleanliness, and lightness,
to any others. 
 It can scarcely be necessary to repeat how injurious to health are very
small bed-rooms, and the same rule will apply to curtains which prevent the
change of air, compelling us to breathe over again a portion of the air we have
expired. The curtains should never enclose the bed. In low chambers, the bed
should be near the floor, and the best place for it is at the middle of the
side of the room, not touching the wall. 
 Chintz or dimity are better for bed-furniture than damask, moreen, or any
fabric containing wool; they harbor less dust and are less liable to hide
vermin. 
 Three-ply carpets are best adapted for bed-rooms. Never place carpet under a
bed, or you provide a resting-place for all the dust and flock which daily
falls from the mattresses, and establish a nice hot-bed for fleas. Let the
carpet be made in about three pieces, in order that it may be frequently taken
up and beaten or shaken, and the floor scrubbed clean. 
 Soft feather beds cause an undue warmth that weakens the action of the
skin, and makes one susceptible to cold. A well stuffed feather bed, or
a mattress, should be used. Good mattresses of wool, and wool and horsehair,
iron bedsteads, and as little bed-furniture, curtains, &c., as may be, with
a light quilt, are the best preventives against rising languid, inert, and
unfit in the morning for the duties of the day. The covering should be light. A
wide bed affords the luxury Franklin recommends, of moving from side to side,
and a bed should have but one occupant. 
 Bed-room and dressing-room chairs should be light. Couches, tables,
dressing-glasses, wash-stands, &c., are necessary articles, and the couches
may be made of cheap materials, covered with chintz or brown holland. Bureaus
and ward-robes will not be forgotten. Fireguards of painted wire are a security
against accidents. Of the smaller articles in use a host might be enumerated;
but everyday need will suggest them. 
 Never crowd a bed-room with furniture; have that which is really useful and
requisite, and no more; and in fitting it up, always remember that illness
often comes when we least expect it, and take care that your room shall possess
such articles as will then be needful for comfort and ease. 
 A dining-room requires little furniture but that little should be good and
handsome, and of mahogany. 
 About furnishing drawing-rooms we can give no directions, so much depends
upon taste. We would only reiterate our warning to beware of showy, veneered,
vamped-up furniture, or, when the room has had a fire in it some dozen times,
you will be startled occasionally by reports as if small cannon were
discharged, and on rising to investigate such alarming noises, you will find,
perhaps a crack across one door of the beautiful rosewood  cabinet, or a gaping chasm in that lovely centre table, or a
piece of carved work flown off the card table, showing only pine beneath! 
 Here, again, a little furniture tastefully arranged is far better than a
crowd of articles; besides, in one's course through life, furniture accumulates
gradually, and if it is necessary to sell one thing in order to make way for
another, that is a very losing business. 
 We now come to the kitchens, where the wants are multifarious; for here must
be accumulated means of feeding, and cleaning, and keeping in order the whole
house. Of course we can give no detailed account of what will be required, as
all depends upon the extent and style of the household; all we can do,
therefore, is to make one or two general remarks on the durability of different
wares. 
 As few copper cooking utensils as possible should be had, and those few
should be most thoroughly tinned in the inside, and always carefully cleaned
and dried before being put away. We prefer block tin to anything else for
saucepans, pots, and kettles generally. Iron does not so quickly or plainly
tell any tale of dirt or neglect; cast iron is very brittle, and cannot be
repaired when broken; and copper is likely to harbor verdigris. A good
double block tin saucepan should always have the cover, the handle, and the
back, kept bright as silver; and the top, spout, front, and handle of the
kettle, should also be kept bright; for besides that a polished surface
maintains heat better than an uneven, blackened one, it looks wonderfully
better; and if the smoke is never allowed to gather on these parts, it is easy
to keep the utensils as bright as they were at first. 
 For stewpans, iron tinned on the inside is most useful. 
 The ancients seem to have used lamps of various forms; an improvement on
torches, certainly, but a more simple contrivance than candles, which in the
twelfth century and afterwards, came into use throughout Europe. Wax,
spermaceti, and tallow, with different kinds of oil for lamps of
an improved fashion, are still in use. Spirit gas and camphene are
cleanly substitutes, but extremely dangerous. The lighting of apartments by
inflammable gas is one of the most useful results of the investigations of
modern science. It is said that Murdoch, an engineer, was the first to make
this discovery available on an extensive scale. He commenced his experiments in
1792. 
 Candlesticks for common house or kitchen use should be of tin or brass, and
large enough to save grease spots. There is no wear in japan. 
 Wooden bowls for washing glass and china, and block tin or zinc hand bowls
will be found most serviceable. 
 All utensils for the conveyance of water about a house should be of
metal, as water-cans of different sizes, hot-water ewers with
covers, shaving mugs, &c., as thereby much breakage will be saved, and
these, if bought good at first, will, with ordinary care, last a very long
time. The same remark applies to foot-baths. Very pretty toilet sets for
the wash-stand are also now made in zinc, and beautifully painted or
japanned. 
 Sarcophagus and other extraordinarily shaped coal-scuttles, are to be
avoided as most troublesome and awkward affairs, out of which it is next to
impossible to extract coal conveniently. 
 Soyer gives the following list of kitchen articles for a family of six. 
 Eight copper stewpans, two larger ones, holding one gallon and a half, and
the next one gallon, the others smaller by degrees to one pint; one oval
fish-kettle, holding about one gallon and a half; one middle-sized
braising-pan; one preserving-pan; one round bowl for beating whites of
eggs; two sauté-pans; one omelette-pan; one frying-pan; one
bain-marie;  six saucepans for sauces; one
middle-sized tin pie-mould; two tin jelly-moulds; one tin flanc mould for
fruit; one freezing-pot, with every requisite; two baking-sheets; one
gridiron; one small salamander; one colander-spoon; one bottle-jack; two spits;
one dripping-pan; one screen; one sugar-pan; two soup-ladles; eight
copper spoons, two of them colanders; two wire baskets; one wire sieve; two
hair sieves; twenty-four tartlet-pans; two tammies; one jelly-bag; twelve
wooden spoons; two paste-brushes; one pair of scissors; two kitchen
knives; six larding-needles; one packing-needle; one box of vegetable-cutters;
one box of paste-cutters; one meat-saw; one cutlet
chopper; one meat chopper; six meat-hooks, tinned; one
rolling-pin; eight kitchen basins; six china pie-dishes; six earthen bowls for
soups and gravies; four kitchen table-cloths; eighteen rubbers; twelve
fish-napkins; six pudding-cloths; four round towels. 
 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 WITH regard to all those articles which fall under the general denomination
of "plate," we should advise that all imitations be avoided; let those who
cannot afford silver be content to use simple metal, which does not pretend to
be more than it really is. All the imitations of silver will, even with the
utmost care, betray themselves in a very short time, and have a
would-be-genteel-if-I-could sort of air, which is ten thousand times more
ridiculous than the plainest of all materials; besides, the money they cost
would purchase a few 
 real  articles, which are always worth their weight
in silver, whereas the imitations have only a nominal value, and lose even that
as they become discolored and dull. 
 Metal tea and coffee pots may be had very good, and in handsome patterns,
and are far more durable than china, drawing better, and retaining heat
longer. 
 The following is a list of the usual articles in silver required to furnish
the table. 
  Dishes and covers.  Table knives and
forks.  Dessert knives and forks.   Table spoons. 
 Dessert spoons.  Gravy spoons.   Soup
ladles.  Sauce ladles.  Salt spoons, with gilt
bowls.  Fish slice.  Trays and waiters.  Bread
baskets.  Cake baskets.  Decanter
stands.  Decanter labels.  Liqueur and bottle
stands.  Cruet frames.  Egg frames. 
 Asparagus tongs.  Cheese
scoops.  Knife rests.  Nut
crackers.  Grape scissors.  Tea urns.  Coffee urns.  Tea pots.  Coffee filterers.  Sugar basin.  Cream ewers.  Sugar tongs.  Tea spoons.  Toast racks.  Butter
coolers.  Snuffer trays.  Snuffers.  Candlesticks.  
 Cheap cutlery is mistaken economy. Good knives and forks will, with ordinary
care, last for years; common ones have no wear in them, and never can be made
to cut well. 
 Crockery, china, and glass, we need say little about, for they may be had at
all prices and of all qualities. The moulded or cast glass looks as well as cut
glass, if not placed in contrast with it, and wears as long, and costs
considerably less. For dishes, pitchers, butter-coolers, &c., we should
always use it; decanters, wine-glasses, and tumblers, do not look so well in
it. 
 As regards ornamental china, or glass, or what not, little can be said,
these things being so much matters of taste; but it is better to have but one,
and that one really handsome and good, than a crowd of cheap, showy trifles;
besides, these are things which gradually accumulate, and therefore it is
always better to devote the money in hand to necessary articles, and leave the
more ornamental ones for after consideration. A good clock for the kitchen, and
a handsome one for the drawing-room, are useful and necessary things,
especially the former. 
 In household linen, again, it is false  economy
to buy common or cheap materials. For sheets, linen, cotton, and Swiss twilled
calico are used; these substances are now woven wide enough to render a seam
unnecessary, and all we have to do is to measure the width of the beds and
allow an extra half yard; the ordinary length of a sheet is three yards and a
half. The pillow cases must be of the same material as the sheets. Marseilles
quilts are too heavy to be beneficial to health. Any industrious housewife may
knit very serviceable and pretty counterpanes in squares or shell-shaped
pieces, during those periods when she is chatting, or between the lights, or at
hours when she would otherwise most probably be doing nothing. It is for such
useful purposes as these we value knitting, crochet, &c., for they can be
made the means of economy and usefulness, instead of being, as they too often
are, employed on useless expensive trifles. 
 The most durable sort of linen for sheeting is the Russian, German, or Irish
fabric, a good stock of which should be laid in to avoid the necessity of
frequent or irregular washing. 
 An inventory of furniture is given by Soyer as follows:-- 
 Twelve pairs of sheets; ten ditto pillow-cases; three dozen napkins; two
dozen and a half various-sized table-cloths, including breakfast, dinner,
&c.; six servants' table-cloths; three dozen towels; six round towels;
three dozen kitchen rubbers; two dozen napkins for fish, vegetables, and
fruits; six pudding-cloths; two dozen damask d'oylies; one dozen Berlin wool
ditto. I also have occasionally in the wash the cover of the carpet, the
anti-macassars, which I have knitted at my leisure, and the netted window
curtains. Of glass and china, I have the following; they are counted every
month, and the broken ones replaced:--three dozen wine-glasses; two dozen
champagne ditto: two dozen claret ditto; three dozen goblets; six water
caraffes; six decanters; one liqueur-stand; twelve liqueur-glasses; two glass
pitchers; one celery-glass; one trifle-bowl; eight dessert-dishes. China: one
full dinner service; one common set for kitchen; one common tea service for
kitchen; one good tea service; one breakfast service; one good dessert
service. 
 The following is my list of plate:--three dozen prongs; two ditto
table-spoons; one and a half ditto dessert-spoons; one and a half ditto
dessert-forks; two ditto tea-spoons; six salt-spoons; one cheese-knife; four
butter-knives; one asparagus-tongs; two sugar-tongs; two soup-ladles; four
sauce-ladles; two gravy-spoons; two sugar-ladles; two salvers; one
bread-basket; four candlesticks; one hot-water dish for haunch of mutton. 
 Table-cloths, tray-cloths, and dinner napkins will of course come under the
category of "linen," and can be obtained at very reasonable prices compared
with what they were twenty years since. Towels, too, are included in this list.
In the case of chamber towels, again, comes diversity of opinion; some
preferring a soft, others a hard, some a rough, and some a smooth towel; damask
and diaper are not soft enough for some delicate skins. For our own part we
like towels which administer a certain amount of friction to the skin, and all
medical men agree that this is requisite to health. For the kitchen, round
towels, tea-cloths, and glass-cloths, will be required, as well as dusters,
pudding-cloths, knife-cloths, house-cloths, and flannels for cleaning. These
will have to be purchased at the same time by young housekeepers newly
furnishing, who "have no rags--poor things," and therefore may as well be
mentioned here. Old sheets make good glass cloths; old table-cloths make nice
soft towels; all  dresses of cotton, or old
dress-linings, will serve for dusters, and old blankets for house-flannels. 
 There are also needed toilet-covers for chamber tables, and chests of
drawers, &c., carpet covers, muslin for chamber window-curtains, muslin for
drapery for the toilet-table, coarse sheeting for dusting-sheets to cover the
beds or drawing-room furniture when sweeping and cleaning; a yet coarser sheet
to lay down in front of the stoves when they are being cleaned; chamois
leathers for cleaning the plate, brass, steel, and windows; and bags for the
best brooms. 
 Then we come to brushes, and their name is legion. Oh, this furnishing a
house is a serious affair! a carpet-broom, a short-handled one for the stair
carpets, a hair-broom for the bed-rooms, and another for the passages and
kitchens; feather-brushes, dusting-brushes, stove-brushes, hearth-brushes,
shoe-brushes, plate-brushes, paste-brushes, clothes-brushes, a hat-brush, and a
table-brush to remove the crumbs from the table-cloth, are all needed; and
these should be bought at a good warehouse, and of good quality, if we would
have them do us service, and not fall to pieces, or lose their hair, as soon as
they are fairly brought into use. 
 There are many items yet unmentioned, but it will not be requisite for us to
waste our time, or that of our readers, by enumerating them all 
 seriatim;  we will therefore proceed to other
matters. 
 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 SUPPOSING now that we have our house, and it is furnished, the next thing to
determine is how many servants can be afforded. Must we be content with one, a
"general house-servant;" or can we afford a cook and housemaid, or even aspire
to the gentility of a man-servant or a butler? 
 The expenses must be determined by the sum which can, without incurring
debts or living too closely up to one's income, be devoted to "housekeeping,"
under which head we include rent, taxes, wages, and every outlay appertaining
to the house. Now, in reckoning the expenses of a servant, the question of
wages is not the only one to be considered; there is the board and washing; and
$100, exclusive of wages, is the lowest at which the keep of each servant can
be estimated. 
 In hiring servants always be particular in inquiring their character, and,
if possible, learn something of the people with whom they have lived; let all
stipulations as to wages, extras, holidays, and such matters, be clearly
specified and rightly understood. 
 The greatest trouble in housekeeping in this country, is the difficulty of
procuring and retaining good servants. In the Southern States this difficulty
is not realized; their servants having been trained for the labor allotted to
them, and being contented and happy in their condition without aspirations
after change. But elsewhere, both in the city and country, the case is
different. Men and women born in America look upon service as degrading to
them, and will prefer any hardship or privation to engaging in it as a
business. Those who do so for a time, are usually tormented with jealous fears
that their dignity will be infringed on, or are found neither qualified nor
trustworthy. Housekeepers are mainly dependent on the Irish and German
emigrants, who as a rule are utterly ignorant of household service, and have to
be taught everything; often receiving wages for months before they begin to
make themselves useful. By the time they can be trusted to do the work, they
are corrupted by intercourse with other servants, 
or persons who prompt them to make exactions on your time for visiting their
numerous relatives from the old country, as well as to fill your kitchen with
strangers, till the annoyance becomes intolerable. A complaint on this score
from the employers is followed by an outbreak of insolence, and the abrupt
departure of the servant you have taken such pains to teach;--and so unusual is
it to find one who knows any thing--that she will readily get another place,
perhaps with one of your neighbors who has envied you her possession. 
 An English lady gave this account of the progress of a favorite--"The first
year she was a good servant; the second an indulgent mistress; the third an
intolerable tyrant." 
 A good maxim is to select servants not younger than thirty; they are, as a
rule, less fond of change, and better satisfied when really comfortable. But
change is the order of things in the United States. 
 Respecting servants, there are a few things which cannot be too strongly
urged; one is, never to retain a cook who is not fond of her occupation; for
unless she take pleasure in her art, she cannot be depended upon for accuracy
in the preparation of dishes with which she is well acquainted, and will not
easily be induced to acquire any thing new. She also must possess a natural
regard for cleanliness, or all the pains in the world will never render her
cleanly: where dirty habits are manifested, dismissal should follow, for in
almost every instance they will be found incurable. Another point of main
importance is her 
 temper;  for if that be not good, she will be
disinclined to receive instructions, and, if found fault with, may, out of
pique, spoil a dinner; whereas a good-humored, intelligent servant, when made
acquainted with the habits of the house, and equal to her common duties, will
hardly fail of success when called upon by her mistress to try any of those
receipts which she has not already used. 
 The low character of servants heard of at common intelligence offices has
caused such places to be held in small esteem; for their recommendations can in
no case be depended on. There are institutions in Great Britain which have for
their object the security of housekeepers from the evils of disreputable and
dishonest inmates. The officials are so minute in their inquiries into
character, as to preclude the necessity of those who hire from their office
taking any trouble themselves in the business. Servants whose characters will
not bear the strictest investigation will scarcely apply to such institutions.
They are sorely needed in this country. 
 It may be curious to see the list of servants which form the household of a
British nobleman of high rank, or a wealthy citizen, who keeps from twenty to
thirty domestics. 
 
 Women.  Housekeeper.  A lady's maid for each
grown lady of the family.  Cook.  Upper housemaid.  Laundry
maid.  Under housemaid.  Under laundry maid.  Still room
maid.  Kitchen maid.  Scullion.  (To this establishment that
of the nursery is added.) 
 Men.  House
steward.  Groom of the chamber.  Valet to each gentleman in the family.  Man cook.  Butler.  Gentleman's footman.  Lady's
footman.  Under butler.  Gentleman's coachman.  Lady's
coachman.  Couriers. Outriders.  Grooms, in number according to the stud.  Under servants. Errand boys.  Steward's boy.  
 In the United States so many servants are rarely kept in one family, even
among millionnaires, or in the Southern States; 
where, however, it is customary for each member of the family to have a
separate attendant. An extensive establishment would perhaps number a coachman,
groom, porter, footman, gardener, butler, and perhaps a valet and French cook;
the female servants consisting of a housekeeper, cook, scullion, lady's maid,
chambermaid, laundrymaid, nurse, and one or more maids-of-all-work. Indeed the
most wealthy families keep less than half this number; and the average not more
than three women and one man-servant. Those of slender income are content with
one for "general house-work." 
 In all large establishments in England the men and women servants, in the
intervals of their employments, are never allowed to sit in the same room, but
have their separate places of resort, assembling together only at dinner and
supper. It is the duty of the steward and housekeeper to see this regulation
observed. 
 In servants generally we look for the essential qualities of integrity,
sobriety, cleanliness, and general propriety in manner, with knowledge of their
duties in the departments they profess to understand. A glance at some
reprehensible practices among them may be useful, as every instance of
pilfering and trickery accumulates odium on the whole class. One of the chief
anxieties of housekeeping is the apprehension of the dishonesty of those who
are under our roof and receiving bread from our hands; and suspicion, for which
there is often just cause, injures both the employer and the employed. Cooks
have been found to dispose of provisions in other ways than for the use of the
family they serve. Presents are sometimes demanded by servants from the
trades-people dealt with by the master. The so-called "honor," which prevents a
servant from exposing the frauds and misconduct going on among others, is but
another name for deception and dishonesty. The servant who knows of frauds and
is silent, becomes an accomplice. 
 Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one's honesty, it is yet
prudent to weigh meat, sugar, &c., when brought in, and to compare the
weight with the charge. Scales should be placed in the kitchen, near the door
used by the tradespeople. The knowledge of such things as weights and scales
being in use, will operate as a check to any petty fraud which might otherwise
be contemplated. 
 In large establishments abroad the servants have sometimes an allowance of
food, or are kept on board wages. The former system prevails on plantations at
the South, among field laborers only; the servants in families, as in the
Northern States, taking their meals immediately after, and on the remains of
the family meals. 
 The perquisites of servants are, in many cases, so many encroachments on the
property of their employers, who tacitly allow, while they in principle condemn
the practice. There is no doubt that perquisites tend to corrupt the morals of
domestics, placing their own interests in opposition to those of others, and
offering temptation against which their integrity is not always proof. Among
these objectionable customs, one that particularly calls for attention as an
odious kind of taxation, is the practice of servants receiving 
 vails,  or presents in money, from visitors. It is a
species of bribery for services which ought to be performed without it, and
tends to make servants less attentive to those who cannot give them great
pecuniary rewards. This custom has grown into disuse in England, and most
highly respectable families make it a condition in hiring their servants, that
they shall accept no such gifts, but when they are offered  shall inform the visitor that it is contrary to the rule of
the house to take them. It was formerly so usual in hotels in the United States
for the attendants to expect gifts from the guests, that one could not obtain
any service without it. I knew a party of travellers visiting Niagara, to leave
the dining-room, unable to obtain any thing to eat, the waiters not attending
to them. One who had been longer in the house, informed them they would not be
served unless each person gave fifty cents to one of the waiters--who, in fact,
were paid no wages, but allowed to extract all they could from
travellers! This is downright swindling on the part of hotel proprietors, and
no respectable landlord now permits such impositions. In all the first-class
hotels in our cities, persons should be particularly requested to give no fees
to servants. The charges per day at hotels certainly ought to cover ordinary
attendance; extra services may be paid for. As some country people, and
Southerners, when they travel, continue to give gratuities to servants,
proprietors of public houses ought to be the more resolute in abolishing a
practice tending to produce murmuring, discontent, and neglect of duties among
their domestics. The caution should be inserted among the printed rules of the
establishment, and the servants discharged who is known to receive any thing in
this way. 
 Still more onerous and odious is the custom that inflicts a tax upon
visitors in private families, in violation of the sacred obligations of
hospitality. Such a burden is this felt to be, that many are compelled to
refuse invitations to the houses of their friends on account of it. A Southern
lady informed us that the expense of a short visit to one of her neighbors was
made, by this necessity, to exceed what she would have paid at the highest rate
of hotel fare. We found this the case on spending a day or so on a Virginia
plantation at the invitation of the owner; each servant on the premises
expecting gratuities. They learn, of course, to estimate the worth or standing
of a guest by the amount bestowed on them, and frequently to treat with
insolence or contempt those who cannot give so much. A "help" in New Jersey,
was highly indignant at receiving a present of a mousseline de laine dress
instead of a silk one, and declared she would not have it made up. We knew of
another lady who emptied her purse to give five dollars each to several
flaunting girls in the house where she was staying; though she was obliged to
deny herself many things for want of the money. "If you do not give them
something very elegant, they will make fun of you; nothing simple will please
them;" said another lady when consulted on the subject. What a motive for
liberality! 
 There are very few who have moral courage enough to be independent in such
things, even though their charities have to be stinted in consequence;
especially when it is known that the mistress frequently asks her servants what
they received from her guests, and even draws conclusions founded on their
information! So at the risk of inconvenience or impoverishment, the tax must be
paid; though as a rule it is always paid with with secret dissatisfaction. What
an insult to the name of hospitality is this! 
 The prevailing motive for this kind of liberality is not the charity which
delighteth in giving--but a selfish fear of being thought penurious by one's
friends, or of being ridiculed by saucy servants. We do not remember a single
instance in which the custom,considered imperative, when the custom, considered
imperative, when mentioned at all, has not been mentioned with condemnation. It
should be utterly and for ever abolished. The mistress, in hiring a domestic,
should make known her invariable rule that such  
things are not to be allowed, and should let it be known among all her
friends. 
 We do not object to the largest kind of liberality in giving. The poor and
needy have claims that meet us at every turn; and the most rigid self-denial to
satisfy their just demands, is commendable. It is an excellent rule--"My
superfluity must give way to my neighbor's convenience; my convenience to his
necessity; my necessity to his destitution." In instances where our regard is
attracted by a kind and faithful domestic in a friend's family, or where
circumstances would render a gift peculiarly acceptable, it is pleasant to give
and right to receive. We object to the system which makes present-giving 
 compulsory  without regard to the feelings or means
of the donor, or the necessities of the receiver. And what well-bred lady who
invites her friends for the pleasure of their society, would willingly have
them feel under the necessity of putting themselves to inconvenience to give
large fees to her servants, already well paid for the trifling services they
render? 
 The custom which we have understood is actually prevalent in some places, of
visitors "making up in presents" the expense incurred by their friends in
hospitably entertaining them,--is certainly "better honored in the breach than
the observance." What hospitality can there be, when an equivalent is offered
and received? It would be more fair and open to make the bargain regularly in
dollars and cents. The indirect exaction of compensation in this way,
frequently beyond what could reasonably be charged, appears to us to be
speculation without the 
 s.  Yet we occasionally hear of this as expected from
visitors. A lady in Illinois once said to her guest: "I know you will want to
make me some nice present before you go away; I will tell you what I would
like: &c." A lady from the country who staid a fortnight with a city
friend, left money when she went away to purchase "some sort of a present." All
we have to say of this and every other practice tending to make gifts (which
should be free as the love that ought alone to prompt them) in the slightest
degree compulsory, is, that it is wrong, and entirely subversive of true
friendship. 
 To return to our subject. It is in vain that societies are formed for the
encouragement of faithful domestics, by giving premiums and high testimonials
to those who serve a reasonable time in the same family. These last are not
valued, where a choice of places can be had without them, and the roving
disposition is fostered by the notion of independence and the certainty of
being well paid for doing as one pleases. 
 The only protection to housekeepers from this endless source of discomfort,
is to be found in correcting the mistaken notion among American girls that a
place in domestic service is less honorable than the severer toils of
seamstresses, binders, shopkeepers, or milliners' workwomen. If they could be
persuaded, instead of wasting away their lives in health-destroying needlework,
miserably paid for by speculators in female servitude,--to engage in the active
and varied duties of domestics, secure of a good home and abundant wages--a new
era would commence for American housewives. 
 Something might be done towards this end by regulating the hours devoted to
household employments, in such a way as to leave a portion of the day for the
girl's own time, which she is at liberty to employ as she pleases; and by
encouraging her to use it in the acquirement of useful knowledge. "It requires
a refined mind to dust properly;" and the cultivation of intellect will not be
thrown away in any department. Let the humiliation of servitude be thus taken
away, and persons who have seen better days will engage in the occupation.  We would recommend the establishment of an Association in
our large cities--to find suitable places for persons of a respectable class,
stipulate for suitable privileges, and persuade them to this easy mode of
earning a livelihood. The gratitude of the community would be due to such an
institution. 
 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 As a country cannot be governed without laws, neither can a household; and
the mistress should be as absolute in her own house as a sovereign in her
dominions. Order and regularity are the key-stones to comfort, and our
housewife must carefully arrange and digest her scheme of government in the
first place, and be always alive to any modifications which emergencies, or
prudence, or circumstances, may call for. And she must 
 understand  what she is about, or her scheme will be
worthless; she must be able to teach, nay, to demonstrate upon occasions; she
must be regular in her own habits if she would have those about her regular,
neat in all that concerns herself, attentive to the details of housekeeping,
economical, just, active, and considerate. She must neither hold the reins of
government loosely and negligently, nor too sternly, but must quietly exercise
a general and regular surveillance over every part of her house and household;
and this can be done without tyranny, without vexatious interference, or
exhibitions of temper. Let the servants once feel that this is her habit, and
they will act accordingly; and if the place is good, conduct themselves so as
to endeavor to please and keep it. And it is the interest, as well as duty, of
every mistress, to make her servants comfortable; to see that they have a
sufficiency of good food, that they are well lodged; that they have time to
mend and wash their own clothes, nay, that they know how to do so, and do
it. 
 "Do not send your clothes home to your mother to wash and mend," said a
friend of ours to a new servant; "you will have plenty of time to arrange them
yourself." 
 "Please, mum, I don't know how!" replied the girl. 
 "Well, Mary, you shall be taught, then, for it is time you did know
how!" 
 "But please, mum, I don't want to learn!" said the girl; and learn she would
not, for the foolish indulgence which leads mothers to spare their children all
occupations they do not like, is as prevalent among the poorer as among other
classes. 
 To return: a mistress need never forget herself, nor weaken her authority,
nor show any false indulgence; but in numerous ways she will have the
opportunity of endeavoring to guide, to advise, and to benefit those dependent
upon her; but she must be patient, if she would really do good. She must
remember what may have been the early education, the trials and temptations,
the experiences of those girls, and must not expect too much from them. As we
have before said, she must hold the reins of government with a firm hand; she
must not overlook neglect of duties, irregularities of conduct, want of order
or cleanliness, or inattention to her commands; but she can notice these things
quietly, without loss of temper, and when alone with the offender; and she can
also notice and praise neatness, attention, obedience, and such like, and not
accept the good as mere matters of course, and only mark the evil. She should
likewise endeavor to induce her servant, by example and precept, to be regular
in attendance on religious worship, and make Sunday to them in some degree a
day of rest, instead of one of extra cooking and 
work, and should have a supply of those excellent little works to lend them,
which are published by the religious societies. While she inculcates economy in
things relating to herself, she should try to induce them to save; to put by
regularly a certain portion of their wages, and not be extravagant in clothes,
but make and mend their things properly. 
 There is little saved by giving paltry wages; a useful servant will not
accept them, and those who do, cannot clothe themselves respectably, and will
too often eke out their means by peculation. It is well to begin with moderate
wages, and promise an annual increase, which promise both induces a wish to
please, and takes away one great excuse for leaving, viz., a desire of
"bettering herself." Even in the present "degenerate age," attached servants
are to be found, and may be 
 created.  We are all more or less human, and human
affections and home ties act upon us; we learn to love those who are kind,
courteous, and considerate; we value the notice and regard of our superiors,
and we take a certain pride in deserving their good opinion. The fault lies in
that antagonism of classes, that want of understanding each other, that
forgetfulness that all are fellow-creatures, that tendency to regard each other
as mutual enemies to be conquered or circumvented. 
 But we will pass to another topic. The amount of the income will determine
what sum can be allowed per annum for housekeeping; for besides, there will be
clothing expenses to be provided for, sundries of various kinds, expenses of
illness, on which we must all reckon, and there 
 ought  to be a reserve fund regularly laid by to
provide for any unforeseen emergency, or form the "nest egg" of a provision for
a rising family. Well, suppose the sum determined! the next question is, how to
apportion it so as to combine economy with comfort, and secure a regular and
uniform style of living; not luxuries to-day and parsimony to-morrow. Now, how
can our young housekeeper do this, if she knows little or nothing of the prices
of provisions; if she scarcely remembers when things are in season and may be
purchased at a reasonable rate, and when they are actual extravagances; if she
has no idea what quantity of this or that ought to be consumed, by a family of
a certain size, per week or per month; and, above all, if she has little
aptitude for domestic management, and considerable contempt for all such vulgar
details? Few who have read that truthful sketch of Dickens, the "child-wife,"
will forget the pretty helplessness of Dora; but, although this reads well in a
novel, very few such girls, and there are many of them, will meet with husbands
as indulgent; for men like to see their home well ordered, and to feel the
comforts of good management. Every girl, or almost every girl, looks upon
marriage as the great aim and end of her existence; but unfortunately, she
regards it, as it is treated in novels, as the concluding chapter, the entrance
to that "and-lived-happily-ever-after" state of bliss which we read of in fairy
tales. And certainly it is the entrance to a new life, though not one so
rose-colored as she dreamed; it takes her from the home where she has been
nurtured, cared for, provided for, perhaps petted and indulged, and places her
where she will have to be the presiding intelligence; where all will look to
her for guidance and instruction; where her happiness and comfort, and that of
her husband, will depend upon how she is qualified to fulfil the duties she has
undertaken. Mothers, wishing to have your daughters well married, how have you
prepared them for the duties you well know they will have to perform? Perhaps
you were domestically educated, for our grandmothers were more careful  in their generation, and thought it no degradation to
be good housewives! Perhaps you have had to fight your way through a host of
painful lessons, of annoyances, losses, and domestic worries. Do you never look
back upon that miserable time, and feel anxious to spare your children a
similar probation? Life, even at its best, has enough of painful experiences,
without our doubling them by neglecting to teach each individual, in proper
time, the things she will be expected to know when she reaches woman's
estate. 
 Every housekeeper should keep a strict account of all her expenditures;
should see that each bill is receipted when paid; should file all receipts, and
keep them for a year at least--we should rather say two or three. All
housekeeping bills should be paid every week, for it is easier to pay small
sums than large ones; and besides, the correctness of the bills can then be
ascertained. The mistress should look over each one herself, and thus she will
detect, and can check, any inaccuracy on the part of the tradesmen, or
extravagance on the part of her servants. Should she be her own housekeeper,
let her deal regularly with respectable tradesmen, for they will rarely risk
losing a good customer by sending bad goods. Bargain-hunting is always
perilous, even to good judges. Cheap tea, coffee, sugar, &c., are all
adulterated; cheap vegetables and fruit are generally stale; cheap meat is that
which has been sent ready killed to the market, and therefore is by no means as
fresh as might be wished; and cheap poultry and fish are to be regarded with
very great suspicion. 
 Those who have store-closets will find their advantage in purchasing some
things wholesale. Candles should be bought in the latter part of summer, when
they are usually cheaper, and a store laid in, for they improve by keeping. So
does soap. Coal, too, should be ordered in July or August, and if there is
cellarage, a stock for the winter laid in. Many groceries may be purchased in
quantities at considerable saving. The same remark applies to bacon, butter,
and cheese; but unless there are good dry storerooms, these latter cannot be
kept. It is useless to make pickles or preserves unless the house is dry--in
damp localities these things mildew and spoil; nor are we sure that in small
families it is economical to make them at all, they can be bought so
reasonably. All stores should be kept by the mistress, and given out as
required. 
 All good homekeepers will provide themselves with weights and scales, and
thus be prepared to check the 
 quantities  of stores sent them by their
tradespeople, who are as liable to make errors in weighing as in casting their
bills. We cannot too particularly impress this upon the attention of our
readers, as an essential means of protecting themselves against errors in
weight, whether arising from accident or design. Many heads of families are
exceedingly particular about the 
 price  of their purchases, who are utterly regardless
whether or not they have the 
 weight  they paid for. Tradesmen are aware of this
trust reposed in them, and too often take advantage of it. Unlike the symbol of
Justice, who, as she holds the scales in her hands, is blind to all
partialities, some tradesmen (some especially amongst the class who are
purveyors to the poor) are too open-eyed to see that they descend in their own
favor. 
 In the realm which our housewife is to govern, order, cleanliness,
punctuality, and economy must be the fundamental principles which, by precept
and practice, she endeavors to enforce. It matters little whether her subjects
are limited to a single maid-of-all-work, or general 
 
 Work Table. 
 An illustration of a work table with a span that is with few
needles stick on it. 
 servant, as it is now the fashion to call this domestic, or
whether she reign over two, three, or more "helps," still the principle must be
the same; a certain routine of daily and weekly duties must be laid down, and
it lies with the mistress to see that not only these are performed properly,
but that all incidental matters are likewise attended to. However wealthy a
family may be, they are not willing that their houses and furniture should be
injured by neglect or mismanagement. Money can enable a man to hire more
domestics, but it cannot provide that these persons shall be cleanly, diligent,
trustworthy, and painstaking; it cannot secure him from the consequences of
their ignorance, their carelessness, their extravagance. Nothing but the
supervision of the mistress, or a good housekeeper, can do this. If, then, a
rich man, who can pay the best wages, and hire the most experienced servants,
finds still that he lacks something, how much more will one of moderate income
or of limited means suffer, should he not find in his wife a housewife? 
 What I am now about to say, some of my readers may think perhaps out of
place; nevertheless I shall say it. A woman cannot really do her duty as a
wife, mother, or mistress of a family, unless she is fully sensible of the
importance of health, and gives to all sanitary measures their due attention.
With loss of health come diminished powers of usefulness. Languor and delicacy
in a wife may call forth the sympathies, but do not increase the comforts or
happiness of a professional or business man; neither do they render a woman
more inclined for, or equal to, the performance of her part in domestic life.
And too many of our young girls render themselves languid, feeble, and
delicate, by inattention to the commonest requirements of human nature. The
crying evil of small towns is usually the want of baths attached to houses, and
the small size of bed-rooms; now these are in general accepted as things which
must be endured, and little or no attempt is made to palliate them. All medical
men, however, agree that plentiful ablutions of the body with cold or tepid
water, and a good supply of fresh air in every sleeping and
sitting-room, do more to preserve health than all the drugs in the
pharmacopœia. And next to these come early rising, avoidance of late
hours and crowded assemblies, regular exercise in the open air, attention to
diet, and abstinence from pernicious viands, as pastry, sweetmeats, rich
gravies, unripe fruit, &c. Pork, veal, and
various kinds of vegetables can only be eaten sparingly and occasionally by
some persons. Spirits should only be used medicinally, that is to say,
at times when common sense tells us they might be of benefit. To take them
habitually is equivalent to slow poison. 
 Besides the benefit a woman derives in  her
health and person from attention to all matters relative to personal care, she
will gain another in the effect of her example upon her dependents; for we are
all, to a certain extent, creatures of imitation and prone to follow example,
be it good or bad. Servants who see before them one who consistently practises
the virtues of economy, regularity, personal cleanliness, and general neatness,
will never run diametrically counter to all this, but will in some degree shape
their conduct accordingly, while all the precepts in the world, without
practice, will but go in at one ear and out at the other. 
 Where only one or two servants are kept, the mistress will do well not to
leave her chamber before she has opened her windows, and laid the bed-clothes
back over two chairs so as to insure the sheets and blankets, heated by contact
with the body all night, being well aired and cooled. No bed should be made, or
night-dress folded up, until it has been aired, and suffered thoroughly to cool
for at least two hours. Nurseries should be aired while the children are at
breakfast, and while they are taking their morning walk. Dining and
drawing-rooms require a current of fresh air passed through them at least once
every day, to dislodge all the stale atmosphere tainted by the smell of food,
flowers, &c., and by having been inhaled by those using the rooms. Many of
our readers have doubtless been struck, on entering some houses, by the close,
faint, unwholesome smell they, coming from the fresh air, at once perceive.
Those who dwell in it habitually are not conscious of it. They dread the chill
of fresh air, or the dust it will bring with it into their rooms; and therefore
shut it carefully out, and cherish in its stead a species of slow poison--a
heavy atmosphere loaded with all sorts of pernicious gases. 
 Light, too, is another forbidden luxury in some houses. Heavy Venetian
blinds jealously protect the delicate hues of the curtains and carpets from its
influence, and the inmates consequently fade instead of their upholstery; for a
human being can no more do without light than can a flower, and we only need
place this latter in a cellar for a few days, and we shall see how it will
look. It must not, however, be supposed that we would recklessly suffer the
noonday sun to shine on our damask curtains or tapestried carpets, or that we
should open our windows when rain, hail, or snow beat full upon them; all we
wish to do is, to advise such a use of the choicest gifts of Providence, as
health requires and common sense would dictate. 
 Nor is it only with a view to exercising a salutary influence upon her
domestics and strengthening herself, that we would counsel our housewife to pay
strict attention to all matters of sanitary importance. A female writer of some
celebrity has said, "If before marriage, a woman has been deluded into the
notion that a multiplicity of small ailments invested her character with an
interesting kind of delicacy, the sooner she becomes well after marriage, the
better for herself and all around her." 
 Now we do not intend to assert that there are not many men who are unwearied
in their tenderness in time of illness; but this we must say, that there are
thousands more who "vote sickness a bore;" who have little sympathy with,
little tolerance for it; who married to have a cheerful companion, not a
drooping, languid invalid, to come home to; and who soon begin to seek
elsewhere that companionship and cheerfulness they have failed to find at home.
And alas! when a man's love has once been dimmed, or alienated from his wife,
it never wholly recovers its lost lustre, but remains a mere mechanical matter
of duty or honor, and too often not even  that.
Matrimony may bind a man to his wife legally, but herself only can retain her
empire over his heart; and to do this, she will need even more than her
former charms and attractions and fascinations, besides a vast variety of other
attributes which her new position will require of her. 
 Women little dream what they peril when, after marriage, they neglect the
accomplishments, the tasteful dress and adornment, the charming 
 coquetterie  of manner, which enthralled the lover.
They not only risk their happiness, for it depends on him, but they neglect
what ought to be their highest ambition, that of proving how much dearer is the
wife than the mistress, and of rendering his home a refuge from cares, a scene
of tranquil happiness, of social enjoyment, and of real comfort. Milton is not
uttering a merely poetical exclamation, but a great truth, when he says--
 "For nothing lovelier can be
found In woman than to study household good,  And good works in her
husband to promote;"  for a woman who is true to herself will inevitably
be the better angel of her husband. Contact with her true heart, her
gentle pursuance of all her duties, and with her cheerful, rational, and
earnest spirit, will restore the tone of his mind, defiled, saddened,
rendered morbid, it may be, by contact with the outer world and all its
chicanery, its worry and its debasing influences. Wisely are all things
ordered, if we would not, by our follies, our impatience and self-seeking,
derange them. Beautiful is the mission of woman, if she would but see it in all
its holiness and brightness. 
 Those who have a home which they can make happy, will not sigh for contact
with the outer world, to be permitted to wrestle and contend among its fierce
trials and the fiercer spirits that struggle there for daily
bread; or despise the peaceful path of domestic duty, which, although it
has its trials, is yet in a great degree sheltered; or reject the gentle ties
of wife, mother, sister, to study some learned profession, and rush into those
haunts and paths already too crowded with the sterner sex. Such must be the
lot, nevertheless, of many women, whom necessitous circumstances have forced
into an unnatural position. 
 Our "model housewife" believes with us that we should endeavor a 
 "Well ordered home, man's best delight, to
make:  And by submissive wisdom, modest skill, With every gentle,
care-eluding art, To raise the virtues, animate the bliss. And sweeten
all the toils of human life; This is true female dignity and
praise."  So turn we now again to more practical matters. 
 There are few things more perplexing at first to young housewives than the
momentous question of dinner. A social dinner party, and a quiet family dinner,
require equal consideration. We once heard of an old bachelor who, to save
himself the daily trouble of stating what he would have for dinner, drew up a
programme of dinners for every day in the year, and handed it over to his
housekeeper; and a lady has lately published a pamphlet, entitled, "What shall
we have for dinner, in order to save idle folks the trouble of thinking." 
 Now, a good cookery book, a short walk round the region where the marketing
is done, and a knowledge of family likes and dislikes, will generally enable
even a novice to arrange this important matter, at least so far as the ordering
goes, the cooking being another consideration. Joints should always, when
weather permits, be purchased fresh, and then hung as long as is deemed
requisite to fit them for eating. A knowledge of the sauces and condiments
appropriate to every dish, is a subject well worth attention. The cooking of
vegetables is an  important point, and one in which
we may derive much useful instruction from the French. Vegetables cannot be too
fresh; in large towns we can form no idea how little we know of the real flavor
and delicacy of green vegetables, accustomed as we are to have them at least a
day after they are cut. 
 Fish should be chosen by touch and look. If it feels flabby, and
looks pale about the gills, and dull about the eyes, it is to be avoided;
firmness of body, brightness and fulness of eyes, and ruddiness of the gills,
are signs of freshness. Crabs and lobsters must be selected by
weight, not size, and the olfactory organs employed to test their
sweetness. 
 We have already spoken of the desirableness of dealing regularly with
respectable people, but no rule is without its exception; and those who are
pretty good judges of articles of provision, may often obtain some variety by
looking about them. Practice and habitual attention and observation, and the
wholesome annoyance of one or two blunders, will soon give experience. 
 We would advise that our housewife should see occasionally that all the
cooking utensils are kept clean; that there is no waste or extravagance, that
the ends of loaves, spare bits of cut bread, bones of meat, cold
vegetables, &c., are not recklessly thrown about. There are in every
neighborhood only too many poor to be found, who will most gratefully receive
the scraps from the richer man's table; and a little inquiry will always find
some family on whom such odds and ends may well be bestowed. The
tea-leaves should be regularly put by in some vessel, to be used in
sweeping. 
 Perhaps there are few things in which the respectability of a man is more
immediately felt, than the style of dinner to which he may accidentally bring
home a visitor. Every one ought to live according to his circumstances, and the
meal of the tradesman ought not to emulate the entertainments of the higher
classes; but if merely two or three dishes be well served, with the proper
accompaniments, the table-linen clean, the small sideboard neatly laid, and all
that is necessary be at hand, the expectation of both the husband and friend
will be gratified, because no interruption of the domestic arrangements will
disturb their social intercourse. 
 Hence the 
 direction of a table  is no inconsiderable branch of
a lady's concern, as it involves judgment in expenditure, respectability of
appearance, and the comfort of her husband, as well as of those who partake of
their hospitality. Inattention to it is always inexcusable, and should be
avoided for the lady's own sake, as it occasions a disagreeable degree of
bustle and evident annoyance to herself, which is never observable in a
well-regulated establishment. In doing the honors of her table, the mode of
carving is also of importance, and will be treated of in a future chapter. 
 The mode of 
 covering the table  differs in taste. It is not the
multiplicity of things, but the choice, the dressing, and the neat,
pleasing look of the whole, which give respectability to her who presides. The
table should be furnished with more than the 
 necessary  quantity of plate, or plated ware, and
glass, to afford a certain appearance of elegance; and if accompanied by a
clean cloth and a neatly dressed attendant, it will show that the habits of the
family are those of gentility. For a small party, or a 
 tête-à-tête,  a dumb waiter is a
convenient contrivance, as it partly saves the attendance of servants. The
cruets should be looked to and filled every day an hour before dinner; and much
trouble and irregularity are saved when there is company, if servants are
accustomed to prepare the table and sideboard in similar order daily. Too many
or too few dishes are extremes  not uncommon: the
former encumbering the dinner with a superfluity which partakes of vulgarity,
whilst the latter has the appearance of poverty or penuriousness. 
 
 An illustration of a basket that looks like a boat from the side
view. 
 
 Servants should always be accustomed to lay the cloth and serve dinner as
neatly when the family is alone as when company is expected; they should
likewise be taught to bring up and place on the table or sideboard everything
likely to be required during the meal, and not have to leave the room
repeatedly on trifling errands. The mistress should glance around to see that
all is there; and if she perceives omissions, mention them before dinner
commences. Servants should also be taught to wait at table without bustle or
noise; to remove plates, &c., without rattling them; to open and close the
doors gently; to lift covers from dishes so as not to let the drops of
condensed steam fall on the table or those seated at it. If these things are
ordinarily insisted upon, the mistress of the house will not, when she gives a
dinner party, sit on thorns, trembling lest some 
 gaucherie  be committed.  
 Those who would give dinner parties, must, generally speaking, if their 
 ménage  is small, hire a professed cook. A
small, well cooked, well chosen dinner, is far preferable to a table crowded
with dishes. Symmetrical arrangement of the dinner table, too, is a powerful
adjunct. The silver should be bright, the glass sparkling, the table-linen pure
and snowy, the room well lighted, of comfortable temperature, and well
ventilated. The pleasure of eating a good dinner is greatly enhanced when
comfort is studied, and taste gratified. 
 
 Vegetable Dish. 
 A large vegetable dish with a lid. 
 
 The wines, if you give any, should be good; it is better to give only one or
two kinds, and let those be good, even though they be only old-fashioned port
and sherry, than to aim at greater things, and set before the guest
those "cheap and nasty" imitations of other vintages. 
 
 A large two tiered serving dish with a lid. 
 
 Choose the company and arrange them as carefully as the dishes. Ill assorted
guests are difficult to please, while persons who assimilate find additional
zest in their social enjoyment.  
 
 Vegetable Warmer. 
 An illustration of a pan with with four legs. 
 
 The dessert should be well selected, and more choice than plentiful. By
choice, do not let us be understood to mean extravagant, consisting of
fruits not yet in season nor having their proper flavor, or of
preserved fruits, or fancy confectionery. All these are prejudicial to
health, and we cannot understand why people who dine out should be tempted to
eat indigestible things; why what ought to be a means of social enjoyment,
should be made a matter of form, ostentation, and discomfort. Let the dessert
consist of fine specimens of the fruits in season, backed in winter by a
few dried fruits and biscuits. 
 
 Plate Warmer. 
 A tall, three legged, ornate plate warmer. 
 
 
 Cake Basket. 
 A large oblong baskt with a tall handle. 
 
 
 Fruit Dish. 
 A circular dish with steep sides and a decorated
rims. 
 
 Soyer's housewife thus describes her dinner:--The first thing to be looked
to is the lights; these ought to be so placed as not to intercept the
view of any person at the table, but at the same time they ought to be enough
to show everything off to advantage. I prefer removing some of the
lights from the table to the side-board when the cloth is removed, as
the light after dinner ought to be more subdued. In laying the cloth, we place
it over the baize and remove it after dinner, as Mr. B. says he likes to see
the mahogany; for when he asks a city friend to come and put his feet
under his mahogany, it looks rather foolish if he never sees it. I have, as you
know, my table rather wide, that is, six feet, and I generally place a
vase of flowers in the centre, as I think their freshness and odor add greatly
to the appearance of the table, and admit a flanc on each side. We prefer the
old English plan of taking the top and bottom of the table, instead of me and
Mr. B. together at the side. 
 
 Dish Cover. 
 A bell shaped dish cover with handle. 
  
 "The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a napkin, two
knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two wineglasses to be placed for each
person, a saltcellar between every other; that being a condiment which every
one uses, though often wrongly; the cruet-frames and other requisites are kept
on the sideboards. I then have the fish and soup served together; the
potatoes and sauce on the sideboard; I serving the soup, and Mr. B. the
fish; and often a little dish of fried fish, such as
smelts, &c., to remove the soups. This gives me an opportunity of
seeing that my guests are properly attended to, and also leisure to take
wine with any gentleman who challenges me. During the time this course
has been progressing, the cook has had time to dish up the removes nice and
hot, and get all up close to the door, as I like as little time as possible to
intervene in changing the dishes; and these consist generally of variously
dressed chickens, which I have before me, as this gives an opportunity
for the gentleman on my right to display his gallantry; Mr. B., who is a
capital carver, either has a saddle or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter
of lamb before him, the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue
and entrées. I select those most easy to carve, and also easy for the
cook to prepare. This is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the
attendants; they should know almost by the look what this lady or that
gentleman requires, and what kind of vegetables to hand them; a first-rate
butler should be able to judge by the physiognomy to whom he should offer
mint sauce with the lamb, and who prefers cayenne; on
their attention and hot plates depends the success of the substantial part of
the dinner. 
 "As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in consequence of
the organ which utters them being employed in another way, I give a look to the
two servants which they understand, and immediately two reports are heard--they
are from two bottles of champagne, opened at the same time by the
attendants, who have each a salver with six glasses on it; this takes but a
short time to serve, and prepares the palate for the entrées, which
generally get praised; indeed, my cook would think something was wrong if two
of the dishes did not go down empty. By having the champagne thus, I
find it goes much further than if only one bottle was opened at the time, there
being sufficient left in the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to
take champagne with him. If I have game I remove the top and
bottom dishes with them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking care to
have 
 cold plates  for the jelly, and having the

  Fish Carver & Fork.  A knife and fork used for eating fish. 
 
  Silver Skewer.  A large needle-like utensil. 
 
  A metal carrying device with two baskets each of which contain a
crystal or glass cruet. 
   liquors handed round when the
sweets are on the table; one cheese I place opposite Mr. B., and
macaroni opposite myself. In the dessert I generally introduce some new
importation, such as bananas, sugar-cane, American lady
apples, prickly pears, &c.; these also give a subject for the
gentlemen to talk about when the ladies have left, as free trade, colonial
policy, &c. About half an hour after the dessert is on the table, and when
I see that the conversation is becoming less general, I retire to the
drawing-room; the servants then remove the used glass and plates, and Mr. B.
introduces some of his choice claret or Burgundy in ice coolers." 
 
 Wine Cooler. 
 Two conjoined baskets for chilling wine. 
 
 There are so many varieties of evening parties that no directions can be
given respecting them. As a general rule, we would advise that they should be
as simple, unostentatious, and sociable, as possible. It is the extravagance
which has been introduced into these matters, the insane desire of outvying
each other felt by individuals, which is the bar to real social enjoyment, and
prevents us from being as lively a people as the French. Why cannot we meet to
converse, have music, dance, or amuse ourselves in any rational way, and be
content with light, simple refreshments, and a sincere welcome? Surely such 
 réunions  are more enjoyable than crowds,
grand suppers, superb toilettes which are scarcely seen in the crush, and
suffocating heat or currents of cold air. Such assemblies upset the house of
the party-giver for a week at least, weary and worry her, and are criticised
most severely by all her "dear friends" who did not enjoy themselves, nor
receive the attention they expected. In them all is most certainly "vanity and
vexation of spirit;" there is no pleasant converse, no comfort, no
intellectual enjoyment; weariness, lassitude, headache, and expense, are the
only concomitants of such parties. May our "model housewife" have courage to
reject them altogether. 
 
 A device to hold four or five small containers 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 FEW persons would believe what a waste of money and property arises simply
from want of care. We cannot, of course, expect this carefulness from servants,
from those who are often thought less, inexperienced girls, coming from a home
where there was little worthy of care, perhaps from a place, where there was no
time to bestow due attention on the various duties. Few servants stay long
enough in a situation to become attached to, and, as it were, identified
with  it and its belongings; they are ever striving
to "better themselves," or, in other words, obtain higher wages. It matters not
that they are comfortable, that they like their employers; that they are
well-treated, and not over-worked;--should some acquaintance or relative be
receiving higher wages than they are getting, they will sacrifice all to "go
and do likewise;" and too often not in order that they may contribute more to
lay up a fund in case of illness or misfortune, but to be able to dress more
smartly, or indulge in some favorite pleasure. All this is much to be
regretted, as it too often entails loss of health, comfort, and respectability
on the young woman. But it is not this point from which we now have to regard
it. It is the mistress, not the servant, whom we are addressing, and whom we
would guard from the troubles which must befall her, if 
 she too,  be careless, if she does not know and see
that her property is well managed and regularly and properly attended to. 
 We have before said that no household knowledge can be deemed superfluous,
or ought to come amiss to a woman, who is to be at the head of a house. Surely
she is not the less a lady because she understands how her house should be
managed and cleaned, and kept tidy?--because she can teach her servants when
they are ignorant, put method into their proceedings when they are careless,
and quietly but attentively look on and superintend when they are tolerably
efficient? We are all made of the same clay, though differently tempered by
education and position; we are all subject to vicissitudes, and cannot tell
what a day, or even an hour, may bring forth; is it not, then, wiser to be
armed at all points, prepared for all circumstances, equal to any
emergency? 
 These preliminary remarks have been made to preface the directions we are
about to give for the daily routine of a servant's duties, which else might
have seemed out of place here, had it not been our opinion that, in order to
manage servants well, a mistress should fully understand what their actual
duties are. 
 Early rising is indispensable if a servant would do her duty; it is not
possible that the rooms can be dusted, the fires lit, the breakfast got ready,
and all the little incidental jobs done, unless a servant is down stairs at
least two hours before breakfast-time. We should fix six o'clock as the proper
hour at which work should begin all the year round; for in winter even more has
to be done than in summer, and few things are more unpleasant than to have
servants pottering about their work all day, instead of getting through the
chief and dirtiest part of it in the morning hours. If we make a call, which
gives us the most favorable impression of the family,--to see a tidy-looking,
clean servant, answer the door; or to have it opened by one who looks as if she
had deemed it necessary when blacking the stoves to black her own person
also? 
 A servant should be trained to rise about half-past five, throw open her
bed, and her window, too, when the weather permits; unclose the shutters of the
staircase and dining-room, open the windows of this latter to air it; pass into
the kitchen, and open the shutters and windows there; light the kitchen fire;
well rinse the kettle, and fill it with fresh water; see that the boiler is
well supplied with water, and then proceed to prepare the room required for
breakfast. 
 The rug must be folded up and removed, and the proper cloth laid down in
front of the fire-place before the grate is touched (we are supposing that it
is winter); the box containing the black-lead and brushes for a black stove, or
the emery paste, and leather, brushes, cloth, &c., for a polished stove,
and the scuttle containing coal, wood, &c., must be brought up.  Once a week, at least, the soot should be gently swept down
from the chimney into a shovel, as it otherwise gathers all round the lower
ledges, and is very apt to take fire. The stove must be polished with a brush,
or a cloth, according to its nature, every morning, and thoroughly cleaned at
least once a week. The fire may then be laid and lighted, and in doing this
there is some art. Where one girl will light and re-light the same fire three
or four times over, consuming in each attempt a quantity of wood, and paper,
another will, with less wood, kindle a brisk fire at once. The mystery lies in
obtaining a perfect draught of air through the pile of materials, and placing
those in juxtaposition which are most combustible in nature. Where this is
properly done there will be little smoke, and great saving of fuel; but
fire-lighting requires the use of one's senses and some skill, commonplace a
matter as we may think it. 
 This much having been done, the sweeping comes next. Now, it will not be
requisite thoroughly to sweep the carpet all over above once a week; on the
other six days those parts of the room chiefly used, alone requisite sweeping,
and this may be done with a dust-pan and a soft hand-brush. Then comes the
dusting, and in doing this a feather brush should be used for the frames and
chair covers, and a duster for the furniture. On the cleaning day the carpet
must be well swept with a carpet-broom and tea-leaves, the furniture well
cleaned and rubbed, the mantel-piece and ledges washed, the inside of the
windows cleaned, and every ornament well dusted. 
 
 Window Brush. 
 A brush with bristles on both sides of the head. 
 
 The street-door steps should be cleaned, the mats shaken, the passage swept,
and the brasses polished before the family come down. 
 
 Feather Duster. 
 An illustration of handeled instrument with long bird feathers
protruding from one end. 
 
 The breakfast is then to be prepared; the cloth laid, the breakfast service
properly arranged, the ham or eggs, or whatever it may be,
cooked, the toast made, the butter set in clear, fresh
water, the coffee prepared and the milk boiled. 
 
 Brushes for Cleaning. 
 The first of three brushes is long and cylindrical. The second has
a row of tightly packed bristlesand a wooden handle. The third has bristles
like a tassel and a long handle. 
 
 The servant next proceeds to the bed-rooms, opens the windows, lays the
bed-clothes back to air, and turns up the mattresses or feather-beds in each
room; then empties the slops, cleanses and rinses all basins, ewers, bottles,
&c., wipes up all slops, and brings fresh water to supply all wants
in each room. The beds are then to be made, and the rooms dusted. On cleaning
day, which should come for each room once a-week, the chamber utensils must all
be well washed in warm water, the carpets taken up and shaken, and the
furniture cleaned. During the summer the floor under the bed should be washed
over three times a-week at least, to remove all dust and flue. 
 Before all this can be finished, the breakfast will have had to be removed,
and this should be methodically done; the china being gathered on a tray
without  either fuss or rattle, the crumbs brushed
from the cloth, and this latter doubled up in its original folds, and any
crumbs which may have fallen on the floor swept up into a dust-pan. 
 The servant will now get her own breakfast, and then wash up and put away
all the breakfast things, having first set aside all the catables, giving the
scraps to the cat, and taking care that nothing is wasted. 
 The up-stairs work having been done, the candlesticks and lamps should be
cleaned and trimmed; and then the knives cleaned. Where only one servant is
kept, she will ere this have had to think about dinner, and manage so as to
make the earlier preparations for that important matter between whiles. A
mistress should always inform her domestic charged with such duties, what she
intends having for dinner, when the girl is removing the breakfast things,
otherwise she cannot possibly arrange her daily duties so as to attend to the
cooking without neglecting them; and the mistress should, as far as possible,
endeavor to arrange her dinner so as to suit the household duties of the
particular day for which she is catering. For each day should have its special
duties; as, Monday, the wash for towels, dusters, servants' clothes, &c.,
and looking up the clothes for the laundress; Tuesday, cleaning the attics;
Wednesday, the best bed-rooms; Thursday, the drawing-room; Friday, the
dining-room and plate; and Saturday, the hall, staircase, and kitchen, covers,
&c. Such regulations once laid down, the servant will know what duties each
day requires of her; and the mistress, being aware what has to be done, will be
able to give her orders accordingly,--for nothing can be done without good
management in a small household. Both mistress and servant must exercise
forethought, or the whole day will be one scene of hurry, scurry, and
discomfort. 
 The next thing, then, is dinner, and this meal having been served and
removed, the servant must, if the family are in the habit of retiring to the
drawing-room, run up and see that all is right there; the fires burning and
curtains let down, if in winter, or any little customary summer arrangements
made. Then comes washing up the dinner things, and preparing for tea,
and serving that at the proper hour. 
 While the family are at tea is the best time for the servant to go up
to the bed-rooms, turn down the beds, close windows, light fires, or perform
any other customary or necessary duty. 
 The tray has to be removed, and cups used at that meal, washed and put away.
The tea leaves should be squeezed tolerably dry, and put away in an old
dish or basin, for sweeping. All window shutters should be closed and doors
bolted at dusk, both in winter and summer. If supper is taken, it is usually
carried up on a tray covered with a cloth; after that comes the putting out of
all fires and lamps, the fastening the hall door, and then to rest. 
 Any one who takes the trouble to reflect upon the multifarious occupations
of a female domestic, in a family where but one is kept, cannot but perceive
the absolute necessity of a regular plan of proceedings, and also of the need
there is for consideration, patience, and kindness. With all the activity and
good-will in the world, it is physically impossible that a girl can be in two
places at once; and yet she may be just performing some nice operation in
cookery while a visitor may be knocking at the door, and her mistress ringing
impatiently to have something done towards tidying herself or the apartment.
How is this to be managed? It can only be settled quietly by the mistress
bestirring herself, and aiding in smoothing the difficulty. Where two or more
servants are kept, one should always  be tidy and
ready to answer the door, and the lady of the house and her apartments should
always be 
 mis à quatre épingles,  or, in other
words, in such order that a visit from royalty itself would scarcely create any
bustle. Indeed, the test of a well-arranged establishment is the absence of all
fuss. The advent of relatives from the country bent on finding a home and a bed
there, the arrival of unexpected guests to dinner, or any such unexpected
events, will, of course, slightly derange the economy of a household,
especially if it be a small one; but 
 our  housewife will not allow this to be visible.
Quietly and without confusion she will take opportunities of giving the
necessary orders; and if her servants are regularly trained, they will
comprehend and second her at once. In every house spare sheets, blankets, and
bed-clothes should always be kept aired, in case of their being required on any
sudden emergency, and this can be done by laying them between the palliasse and
mattress of any bed in regular use. We have before spoken of the advantage of
always having the store-closet well supplied. It is a great mistake to fancy
that anything is saved by purchasing articles that will keep, in small
quantities, and certainly the loss of time incurred by having constantly to
send out for trifles, is both a great waste and a great inconvenience. No
servant can get through her work properly if she has repeatedly to run out on
errands, or if she is called off frequently on frivolous pretexts. A mistress
is quite right in exacting from her servants a regular and proper fulfilment of
all their duties; but on her part she must give them time and opportunity to do
this. If she sees they want method, she must try to teach them; and through all
must remember how defective their early education has too often been, how
little preparation they have received for the path of life they have to follow,
and be patient with them. The great social evil of the present age is, that
females are rarely trained with reference to their probable duties. This evil
pervades all classes, from the lowest to the highest. The daughter of the 
 millionnaire  is seldom taught to consider how great
are the social responsibilities her wealth and position impose upon her,--to
regard herself as a steward of the Almighty, a medium through which His
blessings may flow to those poor and unfortunate ones, whose lot is cast so far
apart from hers. If she learns at all that "to whom much is given, much will be
required," she probably imagines that 
 much  to be in the way of style, dress, and
accomplishments; which, to a certain extent, is not far wrong, for the
circulation of money is a commercial advantage, and those elevated in position
should also be elevated in mental and moral attributes; but this is not all
required of them. There is a duty to the poor, the duty of kindess, charity,
and mercy. If all who have it in their power would but attend to this a little,
how much good might be done! and what sits so gracefully on woman as such
gentle deeds and holy virtues? 
 Then, as we have before said, the daughters of the working class are hardly
prepared for their position as wives, mothers, and housewives; and the children
of the poor have too often a still worse bringing up, being reared amid misery,
poverty, dirt, and vice, if not in their own families, at least in many of
those around them. 
 Vast as has been the general spirit of progression in this age, it is
marvellous that these every-day matters have been, practically speaking, so
totally overlooked. There is much theory, but the greater part of it is
speculative and utopian. We are not advocates of systems, but would  recommend good common sense instead; for systems can only be
applied to certain parties and in certain ways, whereas common sense will cull
the best parts of many systems, and adapt them to suit the peculiar position or
character it has to deal with,--and thus give to that character a firmness and
freedom from conventional prejudices which will, when strengthened by right
principles, make it good and useful. 
 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 AMONG the many duties a woman is called upon to fulfil, surely none can be
deemed of such paramount importance as those she owes to her children. Now it
is by no means our intention to write a chapter of "advice to mothers," or
enter upon the subject of the education and general management of little
people; all we have to do with the matter here is to notice it as forming a
branch of our subject; for the nursery is an important part of a house, and
upon its good management much of the comfort, as well as the health and
well-being of every member of the family, will depend. 
 
 Sitz Bath. 
 A bath with a round basin component which also has a reclined back
rest. 
 
 If ever a woman has need of thought, care, and patience, it is when she
becomes a mother. Who can look upon that most helpless of all created beings--a
new-born infant--and not feel pity for it, interest in it; and surely no mother
can bestow her first kiss on the little unconscious innocent without feeling
some sense of the responsibilities which now rest upon her--for it is not only
a human being, but an immortal soul which is committed to her charge. 
 Wherever such an arrangement can be made, a good-sized airy room should be
set apart for the nursery, and always kept scrupulously clean, well ventilated,
and of an even wholesome temperature. Warmth is highly necessary to the health
of infants and young children--but not the warmth of a close, over-heated room,
for that oppresses their lungs, and makes them delicate and very
susceptible of cold. Let the child be comfortably clad, and a natural
temperature of body thus maintained. The health of very many infants is
impaired by the foolish custom of exposing their little chests and arms by
finely-worked low bodies and very short sleeves, tied up so as effectually to
prevent their being of any use in the way of covering. Very young children have
so little natural heat, that they absolutely require that the temperature of
their bodies should be kept up, by means of clothing, to a proper standard. 
 The furniture of the nursery ought to be very simple, and to consist of no
more things than are absolutely necessary. The "bassinet," a wicker basket
stuffed very soft and lined within, two and a-half or three feet long,
and one and a-half wide, has been used in England for very young infants, and
may be carried about. Cradles and swinging cots are condemned by medical men,
and are now less used than cribs. Children's chairs of various sizes, a
washstand, shower bath, a child's bath, or a large earthernware basin fixed in
a stand of wood, various vessels of earthenware, a nursery lamp for warming
liquids when there is no fire, sponges and linen baskets--comprise the
requisite articles of furniture. A wire guard for the fire, and  bars for the windows should never be omitted. 
 
 French Folding Fender. 
 A short folding screen. 
 
 Next to warmth, in the category of matters indispensable to health is
cleanliness. Morning and night, an infant or a child under three years of age,
should be bathed in tepid water in winter, and cold water in
summer. This operation should be performed both thoroughly and quickly, and
then the whole body wiped quite dry with a soft towel, and the limbs and back
gently rubbed with the hand. The skin of an infant is so delicate that a
little dirt, a slight accumulation of powder, any dampness, any rough handling
or friction with a coarse cloth, will break or crack it, and often produce a
humor which is not easily got rid of. The clothes of an infant, and especially
those in immediate contact with its body, should be soft and clean. Its
bed-clothes must likewise be kept well aired, and free from damp and unpleasant
smells. 
 
 Can, Bath and Pail. 
 Three assorted water vessels. 
 
 
 Infant's Bath. 
 A small bath that tappers at the foot end. 
 
 Very young children should be kept as much as possible, in a recumbent
posture; the less a child is allowed to sit upright for the first six months,
the stronger will be its back afterwards. Too strong a light is prejudicial to
young children; neither within nor out of doors should their eyes be exposed to
anything like glare; they ought likewise to be shielded from high winds. Sleep
is a great strengthener of children, when it is natural, and care should be
taken that they lie comfortably as regards position, are warm, and sheltered
from all draughts and from light, though allowed sufficient air. In all things
endeavor to establish regular habits from the very first; regular hours for
feeding, sleeping, dressing, and undressing, should be observed. Few people can
form an idea how much their own comfort and the child's well-being will be
promoted by this. Of course, every now and then illness, or some unforeseen
event, will interfere with this system, but it must be resumed again as soon as
possible. We are aware that many people will deem this regularity unnecessary,
but from the cradle to the grave, we are all more or less the creatures of
habit; and from the time a child first begins to notice anything, its habits
may be said to commence. 
 
 Leg Bath. Foot Bath. 
 Two different baths, one for the legs and feet and one just for
feet. 
 
 When a child is fed, it should be from a proper bottle, and with light, thin
food, not given too hot or in large quantities. Farinaceous substances
of various kinds are best adapted for children of tender age. For the first
twelvemonth these may be given in a fluid, and semi-fluid state, and afterwards
in the shape of puddings either  baked or boiled.
Many children will not take meat, and they do not appear to thrive less
than others; nature at this early age is generally the best pilot, and we shall
seldom err if we follow her lead. 
 The period of teething is always one of anxiety, and requires additional
care and watchfulness; but plenty of fresh air, good and sufficient, but not
over-feeding, and an occasional warm bath or gentle aperient when there appears
to be tendency to fever, will in most cases ward off serious evils. The less
physic a child takes the better in a general way--not that we would advise
mothers ever to slight any actual premonitory symptoms of illness; infantile
diseases being frequently very rapid in their course. 
 There is no occasion to teach children to walk; when they are strong enough,
they will invariably find out the proper use of their feet; let them lie
on the floor, and then sit, and then crawl; and by-and-by they will stand up,
and then walk along, holding by something; and then, when they appear capable
of doing yet more, encourage them to venture alone, but watch carefully that
they do not fall, or they may be frightened, and thrown back some weeks. After
a child is a year old, it must cease to be regarded as an irrational being by
those about it; a quick, lively baby is always taking notice; its intelligence
is becoming daily and hourly developed;--in a word, the first rudiments of
education are entering its little mind. This may sound extravagant and
fanciful, but what says proverbial philosophy? "With his mother's milk
the child drinketh education;" and let any one take three children of from a
year-and-a-half to two years old, one of the three shall have been brought up
by a quiet or ignorant nurse, one by an affectionate and sensible mother, and
the other among a family of children; the first, unless it be a prodigy, will
be far behind the second in quickness, and the third will be as much before the
second. We would punish any one who mispronounced words before babies, or
taught them to call things or animals by ridiculous names; and we would doubly
punish any one who instilled fear into the hearts of young children by
threats of "bogies," "black men," and such like nursery monsters. Many a grown
man and woman has found it difficult to overcome the dislike to darkness
implanted in them when young children by some nursery bug-bears. Teach a
child rather to believe that angels watch over it, induce it to be good from a
fear of grieving its parents, but never destroy or sully that sweet confidence
which is the most blessed part of childhood. Never tell a child a falsehood
either; if you promise a thing, do it; if you say a thing, act up to it. Empty
threats and vain promises made to quiet a child, teach it afterwards, in its
turn, to disregard truth, and make it distrust those whom, next to God, it
should love and honor; whereas "example is a constant monitor." 
 We are not advocates for "cramming" children too early with crude, dry
learning; but much may be taught without effort. "Line upon line" may be
instilled by such simple stories, such pleasant gossip as children love to
listen to, such bright pictures as they delight to look upon and have explained
to them. There is in the present age a royal road to all the fundamental
instruction needed by children for the first eight or ten years of their lives;
the dull, uninteresting paths we had to tread are now decked with so many
flowers that they have become attractive and pleasant. Even the very toys and
games are made means of improvement; and history, arithmetic, and geography may
now be learned as actual amusements. 
 The physical wants of growing children are a sufficiency of good, plain food
at regular hours, exercise in the open air, 
well-ventilated rooms, clothing warm enough to promote health, and sufficiently
easy in fit not to impede growth or a free use of the limbs: strong shoes or
boots to protect the feet from damp, and a proper allowance of sleep
taken at regular hours,--no child under six years of age being suffered to sit
up after eight o'clock, and all under twelve being safely in bed by nine. 
 Late hours, hot, crowded places, as theatres, &c., and children's
parties, are all very destructive of health; irregularities of all kinds are to
be avoided, such as too long walks, any great excitement or over-fatigue; for
growing children require all their strength and energies for natural purposes;
and being more excitable than grown persons, exhaust themselves the sooner. 
 It may be thought by some that we are diverging from our subject, but "our
housewife," if she be now single, may have younger sisters and brothers, and
may probably one day have children of her own, when she will learn 
 "How infinite the wealth of love and hope, Garnered in
those same tiny treasure houses! And oh! what bankrupts in the world we
feel, When death, like some remorseless creditor, Seizes on all we
fondly thought our own." 
 At all events, the care of children is one of woman's most solemn
responsibilities--one of the most sacred of all the trusts committed to her
care; for has not a child an immortal soul? 
 Those who live much among children should carefully purify their every
thought, word, and action,--for the ductile and impressionable nature of a
child, chameleon-like, takes its hue from that of the characters which surround
it. "The seeds of first instructions are dropped into the deepest
furrows;" therefore we cannot omit this chapter of our "Thoughts and
Maxims." 
 If we would cultivate a flower with success, we plant it in a fitting soil,
we water it at proper times, we give to it its due proportion of air and
sun; shall we not equally study the constitution and physical requirements of a
child, in order to bestow upon it the requisite nurture? for children, like
flowers, require study--all are not equally hardy, equally vigorous, equally
beautiful. Some resemble hot-house plants, and are frail and delicate; others,
like the hardy evergreen, can bear and brave change of
temperature and hardship. The system which would be suitable for one of these
natures would be injurious to the other--hence, judgment is needful. 
 Again, if we would train a vine so as to render it luxuriant and productive
of fine fruit, we bestow much pains on the arrangement of each branch;
we do not neglect the smallest shoot, or wantonly injure or twist the least
branch; if we prune, we do so but to remove that which might militate
against the health or produce of the tree. Shall we bestow less culture upon
the moral education of a child? Shall we not, with equal care, endeavor to
remove each evil propensity, and foster each good disposition? Is not the
fruit of tenfold more importance? Pure and innocent is the mind of a
child; let no care be spared to preserve it so. Those who would govern
children by harshness greatly err; a child never loves the person it fears;
besides, all fear is more or less slavish and degrading. Rather teach them to
act rightly from a sense of what is right and what is wrong; found their
obedience on affection; give them principles of action, and teach them to
reason and think, and, above all, make religion their guiding star. 
 A child who fears God and honors his parents is armed for the world's
warfare with a breast-plate, which, if not invulnerable, at least will
turn aside many an  arrow. Our favorite Tupper
quaintly but truly says:--"When his reason yieldeth fruit, make thy
child thy friend, for a filial friend is double gain, a diamond set in gold. As
an infant thy mandate was enough; as he grows in years, let him hear thy
reasons." Believe me, we wantonly trifle not only with our own happiness, but
with that of those little ones committed to our charge, when we neglect to
watch over the treasures we ought so dearly to prize, when we trifle with the
hearts, minds, and souls of our children, ignoring their value, our
responsibility, and the awful reckoning which will be required of us. We are
all too apt to treat children as dolls, to dress and caress them one hour, and
send them out of our way the next, not deeming that beneath the seeming
thoughtless gaiety of those little ones there lurks a world of feeling and
sensibility. Kindness is as necessary to them as daily food. We do not mean
false indulgence, but considerate kindness. An unjust, a cold or harsh word or
action, especially if undeserved, penetrates the heart of a child with
as keen a sting as it does ours; and who shall say how many have grown up
callous and reckless from having their first affections blunted, their feelings
and wishes disregarded? Consistent practice is worth a whole world of precept,
and example will influence while words or coercion are fruitless. 
 Once more, then, we would beg "our housewife" to study what are her duties
towards children. We would entreat mothers so to train their daughters that
they may never have cause to blush and tremble for their grandchildren. It is
no figure of speech to say that "the child is father to the man;" study
diligently, therefore, how best {qoute} "--to rear the tender thought, To
teach the young idea how to shoot; To pour fresh instruction o'er the
mind, To breathe the enlivening spirit, and to fix The generous
purpose in the glowing breast." 
 Nor let children, who should be our blessings, become our treatments, 
 "While young our folly, and when old our fear." 
 Lastly, but not of the least importance in the good training of children it
should be rigidly observed by parents, never to show any difference of opinion
in their treatment before them. Nothing can be more pernicious to their moral
culture, engendering in them habits of disobedience, for they cannot obey one
parent without disobeying the other. We earnestly recommend attention to this
observance; for, besides the evil of disobedience that is almost sure to follow
a difference in opinion from those in authority over the child, the latter is
sometimes prone to disregard the instructions and admonitions of both, and set
up principles of his own, more in accordance with his inclinations, however
erroneous they may be. 
 A chapter is devoted to cookery for children. 
 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 ANOTHER duty, of great importance, devolves on woman; namely--the care of
the sick. From the highest to the lowest none are, properly speaking, exempt
from this charge. 'Tis true that those who are rich can hire experienced
nurses, but still the responsibility, the anxiety, rests with the mistress, for
she cannot hire affection, thoughtful care, and all those little attentions
which make the sole comfort of an invalid; she can merely secure a species of
human machine which mechanically performs its duties, and between whiles eats,
drinks, sleeps, and comforts itself. There are many excellent and kind-hearted
professional  nurses, but there are also more who
become, as it were, petrified by the habitual contemplation of suffering, and
who merely regard the patient with an eye to business. 
 In a sick room the kindness and attention of the nurse often work far
greater marvels than the skill of the doctor, for she is there every hour, she
sees every change, and can minister to many little wants. Those trifles which
make up the events of an invalid, those minor details, so unimportant to a
person in health, those whims, and desires, and nervous susceptibilities which
appear almost childish to lookers-on, will be studied by a good, conscientious
nurse, and overlooked or disregarded by one who either does not feel interested
in the patient, or has not sufficient sympathy to induce her to study these
matters. In the former case, the invalid will be soothed and cheered; in the
latter, irritated and depressed. Surely it is not difficult to conceive which
influence must act most beneficially upon the system. 
 Gentleness, watchfulness, firmness, judgment, some delicacy of feeling, and 
 savoir faire,  and a truly Christian spirit, are the
distinguishing characteristics which will best adapt a woman for fulfilling
this phase of her duties. There are many who, from intense solicitude or
romantic devotion, will give way to those impulses of feeling which lead them
to devote themselves so entirely to the nursing of some beloved relative, that
all other duties, and even self, are wholly forgotten. What is the consequence
of this error of judgment? Their own health succumbs, and they become not only
useless, but render themselves sources of trouble and anxiety. How much better
to have husbanded their strength so as to be able to remain useful! That
despised article, common sense, would teach us all so much if we would but stop
to listen; if we would not mount, each one, our own peculiar hobby, and gallop
off at a tremendous rate, heedless of all sign-posts, and often regardless of
even hedges and ditches. Affection! feeling! sentiment! nerves! how much has
been done and left undone in these names! while poor dear common sense has been
decried as a most unfeeling person, and rudely ejected when she strove to make
herself heard. 
 Yet in few places is common sense a more valuable assistant than in the sick
room; aided by self-command and good feeling, she will transform the most
uninitiated person into an excellent and efficient nurse. Let us hear a few of
her fundamental principles. 
 Speak in a low but perfectly distinct voice, both to the invalid and to any
one who enters the room, in order that, although no unnecessary sound may be
heard, the patient's ear may not be fatigued by striving to catch the words, or
excited by mutterings or whispers addressed to some one else. 
 Let your countenance be calm and cheerful, your manners soothing and
hopeful, and your words such as may cheer or comfort the mind. 
 Avoid all fuss, all hasty movements, all noises that may startle or disturb;
let even your dress and shoes be chosen with reference to quiet. 
 Keep everything in its place, so that in an instant you can put your hand on
it when required; have hot water, clean cups, spoons, glasses, and well-aired
body and bed linen always handy; let the air of the room be changed frequently;
avoid all bad smells, or remove them as soon as possible; pay strict attention
to the temperature of the chamber, and keep it as even as may be; and regulate
the light with equal care. 
 The furniture of a sick room should be adapted to the wants of the invalid.
A reclining-chair will be found convenient; and a rocking-chair for exercise,
with a  movable one for those who cannot walk. The
bedstead should be contrived to afford ease by change of position. Dr. Arnott's
hydrostatic bed has been mentioned as particularly useful for invalids. 
 All food offered to invalids should be daintily prepared, and presented in
the most careful manner. How often, when one has been longing for food, has he
turned from it with disgust, because he has seen the nurse cool it with her
breath, or taste it, and then drop the spoon back into it, and present it. Nor
is it well to inquire of invalids what shall be got for them. If they express a
wish for some particular thing, well and good, let it be got for them, if
reasonable; but a trifling delicacy unexpectedly brought will often tempt the
appetite; besides, a sick person, or even a convalescent, is often too languid
to be at the trouble of thinking about eating, and would sooner go without; or
if he or she chooses something, it may be the very thing which would be
improper or prejudicial, and then comes disappointment, and a species of
disgust for all else, for in illness the appetite is ever capricious. 
 Nowhere is cleanliness of such paramount importance as in the sick room. Do
not let us be misunderstood here. We do not mean that an immensity of sweeping,
scouring, and dusting is to be done, but simply that the chamber must be kept
clean and ventilated, that the bed and body linen must be changed often enough
to refresh without fatiguing the patient, and that the air must be purified by
means of vinegar, or other disinfectants. 
 As there are so many kinds of illness, no general rules can be laid down,
and our friend, common sense, must be allowed to be the special adviser. In one
case body and mind may be paralyzed by weakness or languor; in another the body
may be agonized, and yet the mind clear and active; while in a third the body
may be sane, the mind insane. Hence no one who is a mere machine, guided by
certain rules, can be a good and efficient nurse; no one who does not study how
to minister to the mind as well as the body, who will not endeavor, to a
certain extent, to identify herself with the tastes, feelings, and even
prejudices of the patient, can be really useful. 
 What we have hitherto said applies chiefly to adult patients; to nurse a
sick child may seem a far easier task, but is not so. What gentleness,
firmness, playfulness, and, above all, what patience is needed in the sick
chamber of a child!--for in time of illness, a child is doubly a child, almost
a baby again. 
 Every housekeeper should always have a store of old linen, cambric, and
calico rags, and old pieces of flannel; these are easily obtained by saving
worn-out linen, flannel, and other garments, or at least the useful portions of
them, and treasuring old silk and cambric handkerchiefs. Such things are
invaluable in time of sickness for poultices, fomentations, leeches, &c.
Those who have them not will do well to visit a pawnshop, or the emporium of
one of those purchasers of wardrobes; and having there found one or two
articles of no value but to be torn up, to buy these, bring them home, have
them thoroughly washed, and then put them away for use. 
 It may seem to some that we dwell too long on a sad and painful subject, but
it is good for us at times to be serious, to turn from the contemplation of
life's pleasures and enjoyments, and look upon its darker pages; for it has
been beautifully said by an eminent writer, that "suffering is not a slender,
dark thread, winding every now and then through a warp of dazzling brightness,
but it is interwoven with the whole texture. It is not incidental, but designed
for us; it  enters into God's purposes; it has a
great work to do, and we know nothing of life until we comprehend its
purposes." Again: "Suffering nourishes the tenderest sympathies of our nature;
it raises us to energy and a consciousness of our own powers, and at the same
time infuses the meekest dependence on God; it stimulates us to cherish and
prize the blessings of this world, and at the same time weans us from and lifts
us above mere earthly things." 
 There is no home into which sickness may not come at any hour; and as it is
to woman that the office of nurse is invariably delegated, surely every woman
ought to learn betimes all that will best qualify her to become the ministering
angel, whose presence shall bless the long hours of pain and confinement. False
delicacy, foolish weakness, and all that can militate against usefulness,
should be early overcome. We have seen a daughter scream, and weep, and wring
her hands, while her mother lay fainting before her; we have seen a mother
shriek and fall on her knees, and utter words of agony, when some accident
happened to her child. But how did all this unavailing grief benefit the
sufferers? How much better she does, who, controlling her feelings, thinks only
how she can administer relief. Some might deem her callous, but others know
what 
 real  feeling is concealed behind the pale face,
white compressed lips, and quivering eyelids; to utter it might weaken her, and
incapacitate her from rendering that prompt assistance which may even be
requisite to preserve life. It is our private opinion, that every woman should
have a general knowledge of the anatomy of the human frame, and of the
functions of its various organs; also, that she should be acquainted with
chemistry to a sufficient extent to prevent her from committing absurd errors
in cookery, or in the making of perfumes, cosmetics, and pomades, or pickles
and confectionery; and to this we would add, that she will find it useful to
understand the qualities and action of the drugs and medicaments in most common
use, in order that she may not administer them to herself, or any members of
her family "promiscuously," but with some slight notion of what she is about.
We do not, however, mean to advise "our housewife" to practise quackery on
herself or those belonging to her; for many a constitution has been ruined by
injudicious physicking; but there are cases in which some household remedy,
promptly applied, will often prevent a long illness, and then every one should
know how to act. 
 Women should understand the making and applying of poultices, leeches,
fomentations, warm baths, and similar things; but how few do! They may fancy
themselves clever in such matters. We have known a young person who rushed
headlong on in everything of the kind she undertook; made a poultice in the
kitchen, and wondered that it was cold as ice by the time she had carried it up
to the second floor; applied fomentations, and damped the bed and
night-clothes, so that a chill, instead of heat, was produced. 
 In another portion of our book is given a large list of articles of food for
invalids, with directions for cooking; and also a chapter containing remarks on
diseases common in families. 
 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 THE STORE-ROOM AND MARKETING. 
 IT must be borne in mind that an inventory of furniture, linen, and china
should be kept, and the things examined by it twice a year, or oftener if there
be a change of servants; the articles used by servants should be intrusted to
their  care, with a list, as is done with plate. In
articles not in common use, such as spare bedding, tickets of parchment,
numbered and specifying to what they belong, should be sewed on each; and minor
articles in daily use, such as household cloths and kitchen requisites, should
be occasionally looked to. The best means to preserve blankets from months is
to fold and lay them under the feather-beds that are in use, and shake them
occasionally; when soiled, they should be washed, not scoured. 
 A proper quantity of household articles should always be allowed for daily
use. Each should also be kept in its proper place, and applied to its proper
use. Let all repairs be done as soon as wanted, remembering the old adage of "a
stitch in time;" and never if possible, defer any necessary household duty a
moment beyond the time when it ought to be attended to. 
 
 Refrigerator. 
 A refrigerator with eight shelves, four on the left and the
right. 
 
 A 
 Store-room  is essential for the custody of articles
in constant use, as well as for others which are only occasionally called for.
These should be at hand when wanted, each in separate drawers, or on shelves
and pegs, all under the lock and key of the mistress, and never given out to
the servants but under her inspection. 
 Pickles and preserves, prepared and purchased sauces, and all
sorts of groceries, should be there stored; the spices pounded and
corked up in small bottles, sugar broken, and everything in readiness
for use. Lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, and all sorts of
sweet herbs, should be dried and grated for use in seasons of plenty;
the tops of tongues saved, and dried for grating into omelets, &c.;
and care taken that nothing be wasted that can be turned to good account. 
 
 Bread  is so heavy an article of expense that
all waste should be guarded against, and having it cut in the room will tend
much to prevent it; but, for company, small rolls, placed in or on the napkin
of each guest, are the most convenient, as well as the most elegant.
Bread should be kept in earthern pans with covers. 
 
 Sugar  being also an article of considerable
expense in all families, the purchase demands particular attention. The
cheapest does not go so far as that better refined, and there is a difference
even in the degree of sweetness. The close, heavy, and shining white, or
loaf-sugar, should be chosen. The best sort of brown has a bright,
crystalline appearance, as if mixed with salt, and if feeling coarse
when rubbed between the fingers, is better than when more powdery. East India
sugars are finer for the price, but not so strong; consequently, unfit
for wines and sweetmeats, they do well for common purposes. To pound
white sugar, rolling it with a bottle, and sifting, wastes it less than
a mortar. 
 Both 
 soap  and 
 tallow candles  are improved by keeping, and
are best when made in cool weather; at which time it will be prudent to lay in
a stock of both. They are, indeed, better for being kept  eight or ten months, nor will they spoil for two years if
kept in a cool place; and there are few articles that better deserve care in
buying, and allowing a regulated quantity of, according to the size of the
family. 
 
 Wax, spermaceti,  and 
 composite candles  ought to be always purchased in
quantities of not less than a dozen pounds, on which an allowance is usually
made. 
 
 Soap  should be cut in pieces that will make a
long square, when first brought in, and kept out of the air two or three weeks;
for, if it dries quickly, it will crack, and, when wet, break. Put it on a
shelf, leaving a space between each piece, and let it grow hard
gradually; thus it will save a full third in the consumption; but, for coarse
washing, 
 soft soap  will go further than the
hard. 
 
 Soda,  by softening the water, saves a
great deal of soap. It should be melted in a large ewer of water,
some of which pour into the tubs and boiler; and when the latter becomes weak
add more. 
 
 Self-Heating Flat Iron. 
 An iron with a small container for liquid attached at the back
end. 
 
 Many good laundresses advise soaping linen in warm water the night
previous to washing, as facilitating the operation with less friction. This
should always be done with fine muslins and laces. 
 The price of 
 starch  depends upon that of flour; the
best will keep good in a dry warm room for some years. 
 Everything should be kept in the place best suited to it, as much waste may
thereby be avoided. 
 Great care should be taken of jelly-bags, tapes for collared things,
&c., which, if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give an unpleasant
flavor when next used. 
 
 Vegetables  will keep best on a stone floor, if the
air be excluded; 
 meat  in a cold dry place, where the air is
freely admitted; 
 sugar  and 
 sweetmeats  require a dry place, so does
salt; 
 candles,  cold, but not damp; 
 dried meats,  hams, bacon, and
tongues, the same. All sorts of 
 seed  for puddings, such as rice,
&c., should be covered close to preserve them from insects; but if
kept long that will not be sufficient, unless they be occasionally sifted. 
 Apples  and 
 pears  should be laid upon very clean and dry
straw, to prevent a musty taste; nor should they be exposed to either light or
air. The floor of a dark garret is a good place in which to deposit them; or,
which is still better, shelves made by strips of wood about two inches wide,
placed an inch and a half apart, and the apples laid between them. They
should be ranged singly in rows, without touching each other, and should be
often inspected, both to wipe them, if damp, and to reject those which may
appear to be getting rotten; but the larger sort of pears should be tied
up by the stalk. Apples may also be preserved in excellent condition for
a long period by being packed in large barrels with dry sand, but require to be
used immediately when they are taken out. 
 Coarse nets suspended in the store-room are very useful in preserving the
finer kinds of fruit, lemons, &c., which are spoiled if
allowed to touch. When 
 lemons  and 
 oranges  are cheap, a proper quantity should
be bought and prepared, both for preserving the juice, and keeping the
peel for sweetmeats and grating; especially by those who live in the
country, where they cannot always be had.  They are
perpetually wanted in cookery. 
 The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, is in a
stone jar, on a hot iron hearth, or by putting the vessel into a saucepan of
boiling water, called a water-bath, after its having been closely
corked, but not quite filled, as the heat may occasion the fruits to
swell; but if they diminish after this is done, the vessel must then be
filled. 
 
 Onions, shallots,  and 
 garlic  should be hung up for winter use in
ropes from the ceiling; as should dried 
 parsley, basil, savory,  and 
 knotted-marjoram,  or 
 London-thyme,  and 
 tarragon,  to be used when herbs are
ordered, but with discretion, as they are very pungent. 
 Hams should be well covered in paper bags, and put in a chest
or barrel, with layers of charcoal or ashes between. When you
take one out to cut for use, put it away in a dark place, well covered. 
 Herbs should be kept from the air. Herb tea, to do any good,
should be made very strong. Herbs must be gathered while in blossom.
Those who have a little ground will do well to raise the most useful
herbs; apothecaries make large profits on them. 
 Suet and lard keep better in tin than earthen-ware.
Suet keeps good a year, if chopped, packed in a stone jar, and covered
with molasses. Or, pick suet free from veins and skin,
melt it in water before a moderate fire, let it cool till it forms a
hard cake, then wipe it dry and put it in clean paper, in linen
bags. 
 MARKETING. 
 Although respectable butchers may, in most cases, be relied upon for the
goodness of the meat which they sell to regular customers, yet many
persons (both ladies and gentlemen) go to market and choose for themselves,
when, if not competent judges, the inferior sorts generally fall to their lot.
In country towns, also, there are frequently but one or two market-days in the
week; and the meat being brought from a distance, it is an essential
point of good housekeeping to be so well acquainted with the quality as not to
be easily imposed upon. 
 BEEF.--Well-fed beef may be known by the texture and color;
the lean will exhibit an open grain of deep coral-red, and the
fat will appear of a healthy, oily smoothness, rather inclining to
white than yellow. The suet firm and white. Yellow
fat is a test of meat of an inferior quality. Heifer beef
is but little inferior to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the
red paler, and the fat whiter. Cow beef may be detected by the
same signs, save that the older the beast the texture of the meat will
appear closer, and the flesh coarser to the sight, as well as harder to the
touch. The grain of bull beef is coarser and closer still, the fat
hard and skinny, the lean of a deep red, and it has a stronger scent. Ox
beef is the richest and largest; but in small families, and to some tastes,
heifer beef is preferred, if finely fed. In old meat, a streak of
horn runs between the fat and lean of the sirloin and
ribs; the harder this is, the older, and the flesh is not finely
flavored; that is to say, the horn has become so firm as to appear like
bone; but oxen are always the better if kept until five or six
years old. 
 OX TONGUE.--To choose a neat's tongue, it should be of
moderate size, plump, firm, and smooth to the touch; for if the skin
appears rough and shrivelled, it will be found hard and flavorless. 
 VEAL.--When you observe the kidney well surrounded with
fat, you may be sure the meat is of good quality. The whitest is
not the best veal; but the flesh of the bull-calf is of a
brighter color than that of the cow-calf. The fillet of the latter is
generally preferred on account of the udder. There is a vein in  the shoulder very perceptible; and its color
indicates the freshness of the meat; if a bright red or blue, it is
recently killed; if any green or yellow spots are visible, it is stale. The
suet will be flabby, and the kidney will smell. The other parts
should be dry and white; if clammy or spotted, the meat is stale
and bad. If more than eight or ten weeks old, the flesh becomes coarse. You
will, of course, get it somewhat cheaper, and it may, to some palates, be found
equally good in flavor, but not so delicate in either the color or the texture
of the flesh. 
 MUTTON.--The best is of a fine grain, a bright color, the fat
firm and white. It is better for being full-grown. The ram mutton
may be known by the redness of the flesh, and the sponginess of the fat.
The flesh of the ewe is paler, and the texture finer, but neither the
meat nor gravy so well flavored, though a "maiden ewe," when it
can be got, is considered particularly fine. If you wish to have a good haunch,
choose one of small size and moderately fat, looking at the same time to
the closeness of the grain and the whiteness of the fat; but more
particularly see that the flesh is dark-colored, that being a proof of age, and
the older the better. In boiled mutton this is not of so much importance
as in roasted. 
 LAMB should be eaten very fresh. In the fore-quarter, the vein in the
neck being any other color than blue betrays it to be stale. In the
hind-quarter, try the kidney with your nose; the faintness of its smell
will prove it to be stale. It loses much of its nicety of flavor after it
reaches four months old. It ought, therefore, to be small and white in
appearance, and well covered with fat; the younger the more
delicate. 
 PORK.--The rind should be thin, the fat very firm, and
the lean white; the principal point to be observed is the firmness of
the fat. If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot easily be
impressed by the finger, it is old. Pigs that are short in the
legs and bodies, and have thick necks, and not long heads
and ears, are always to be preferred. When fresh, the flesh will be
smooth and dry; if clammy, it is tainted. What is called "measly pork"
is very unwholesome, and may be known by the fat being full of kernels.
Pork fed at still-houses does not answer for curing in any way, the
fat being spongy. Dairy pork is the best. 
 Porkers from three to four months old are the most delicate, and six months
is the latest age at which they should be killed as such. 
 BACON.--If the rind be thin, the fat firm and of a
reddish tinge, the lean tender, of a good color, and adhering to the
bone, you may conclude it is good and not old. If there are yellow
streaks in it, it is rusty. 
 For 
 hams,  stick a sharp knife under the
bone, and also up to the knuckle. If it comes out with a pleasant smell,
the ham is good; but do not buy it if the knife has a bad scent.
Hams short in the hock are best; nor should long-legged pigs be
chosen for any purpose. 
 BRAWN.--The horny part of the young brawn will feel moderately tender, and
the flavor will be better than the old, the rind of which will be
hard. 
 VENISON.--The fat should be clear, bright, and thick; and if
the cleft of the haunch be smooth and close, it is young; but if the cleft is
close and tough, it is old. To judge of its sweetness, run a very sharp narrow
knife into the shoulder or haunch, and you will know by the scent. Few people
like it when it has much of the 
 haut-goût;  but it bears keeping better
than any sort of meat, and if eaten fresh killed it is not so good as
mutton. Observe the neck of a fore-quarter; if the  vein be bluish, it is fresh; if it have a green or yellow
cast, it is stale. In the hind-quarter, if there is a faint smell under the
kidney, and the knuckle is limp, the meat is stale. If the eyes
be sunk, the head is not fresh. When you can learn where it has been
reared, choose forest-venison, as that is the best; for some of the
dealers stall-feed the deer, and fatten them with oil-cake. It
should be full five years old. 
 In every sort of provisions the best of the kind goes furthest, cuts up to
greatest advantage, and affords most nourishment. Round of beef,
fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, are joints that bear a
higher price; but as they have more solid meat, they deserve the
preference. It is worth notice, however, that those joints which are inferior
may be dressed as palatably, and, being cheaper, they ought to be bought in
turn. 
 In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should
be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef.
Rumps and aitchbones of beef are often bruised by the blows the
drovers give the beasts, and the part that has been struck always taints;
therefore, do not purchase these joints if bruised. 
 All meat should be carefully examined, and wiped with a dry cloth as
soon as it comes in; and if flies have blown upon it, the part must be cut off.
This should be daily observed until it is dressed, as it not only tends to
preserve the meat long in perfection, but prevents that musty
flavor too often perceived in the outer slice when brought to table. 
 In the country, where meat is often carried a great distance, it
should be well covered up with a cloth, over which fresh cabbage-leaves
would keep it cool. These cautions are more needful, as in some families great
loss is sustained by the spoiling of meat. The fly may in some measure
be prevented by dusting upon the parts most likely to be attacked,
pepper and ginger mixed, after 
 wiping,  which should never be omitted; but a more
easy and effectual mode is to exclude the fly by using a wire meat-safe,
or to cover the joints with a long loose gauze or thin cloth, and hang them up
from the ceiling of an airy chamber. 
 In summer meat should be wiped every day, or sprinkled with
pepper to keep off the flies; and should it wear any appearance of
becoming tainted, it should be brushed over with pyroligneous acid; or even if
already slightly infected, either the acid or roughly-pounded charcoal,
if well rubbed into the meat, will restore it. The meat should
also be brought in early in the morning, as, if much exposed to the sun, the
heat will render it flabby. In frosty weather, meat is sometimes in a
congealed state, and should be thawed by soaking it in cold water before
putting it to the fire. 
 Meats become more tender, and consequently more digestible, as well
as better flavored, by hanging; but veal and lamb will not
bear it so long as the flesh of older animals. In summer, two days is
long enough for lamb and veal, and from three to four for
beef and mutton; in cold weather, these latter may be kept for
more than double that time without risk of being tainted. 
 POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 Turkey. --The cock bird when young has a
smooth black leg with a short spur. The eyes bright and full, and moist
supple feet when fresh; the absence of these signs denotes age and
staleness; the 
 hen  may be judged by the same rules. 
 
 Fowls  like a turkey; the young cock
has a smooth leg and a short spur; when fresh the vent is close and
dark. Hens when young have smooth legs and combs; when old these
will be rough. 
 
 Geese. --In young geese the feet
and bills will be yellow and free from hair.  When
fresh the feet are pliable; they are stiff when stale. 
 
 Ducks  may be selected by the same rule. 
 
 Pigeons,  when fresh, have supple feet,
and the vent will be firm; if it be discolored and supple they are stale. 
 
 Plovers,  when fat, have hard vents;
but, like almost all other birds, may be chosen by the same rules. 
 Other game birds may be chosen by the above rules. 
 TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 Fish. --In every sort of fish,
stiffness, redness of the gills, and brightness of the eyes, are invariable
signs of freshness; thickness of the flesh generally marks the good condition
of all fish, and its firmness is an essential requisite. Fish,
when quite fresh, curl round, but are particularly elastic, rising immediately
upon the pressure of the fingers; and their staleness or freshness may be
measured by the possibility of making an impression. If stale, the impression
will remain; but, if fresh, it will rise again on removal of the pressure. 
 
 Salmon. --The fish stiff, the scales
very bright, the belly thick, the gills a brilliant color, and the flesh when
cut, a beautiful red, will prove it to be a fine fresh fish. It cannot
be too fresh. 
 
 Cod. --The best fish are thick at the
neck, very red gills, firm white flesh, bright and blood-shot
eyes, and small head. The liver should be of an opaque
white; the whiter, the better the fish; when out of season the
liver becomes red. It is improved by being crimped, as this increases
its firmness, and then it requires keeping one day before using. 
 
 Whitings. --A clear color and firm bodies, indicate a
superior quality. 
 
 Mackerel. --Bright eyes, thick bodies, stripes
black on the back, the prismatic colors very predominant on the belly, denote
freshness and goodness. The male is the best; his stripes are straight; those
of the female, wavy. 
 
 Pike, Carp, Perch, Smelts, Gudgeons,
&c.,  may be judged by the above rules. 
 
 Eels. --The bright silver-hued belly and
thickness of back, are the guides in their selection. 
 
 Lobsters. --To be had in perfection should be
boiled at home; choose the heaviest. When they are boiled the tail should have
a good spring; the cock lobster has a narrow tail in which the two
uppermost fins are stiff and hard; the hen has a broad tail, and
these fins are softer. The male has the best flavor; the flesh is firmer; and
the color when boiled is brighter than the hen. 
 
 Oysters. --There are many sorts of
oysters; when the oyster is alive the shell will close upon the
knife; the common oyster should be used for sauce and the
natives, of which there are several kinds, should be sent to table. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 UNDER the head of Domestic Manipulation, we propose giving a series of
articles on the numerous and essential manual operations that are constantly
required in every family, and which, whether they are well or ill done, must of
necessity be performed. The term Domestic Manipulation, employed in the widest
sense, would include all the manual operations required in a house, but we
propose to limit it to such as partake in a slight degree of a scientific
character; thus the operations of Filtering, Decanting, Weighing, Measuring,
Bottling, Corking, Unstoppering, Pounding, Heating, Boiling, Distilling,
Cementing, &c. &c. will be included; whilst Dusting, Washing, and
Scrubbing, though no less,  in strictness,
manipulations, will be passed over in silence. 
 We propose treating of the manipulations connected with BOTTLES AND
DECANTERS, &c., under the following heads: Cleaning, Drying, Corking, Tying
down, Stoppering, and Unstoppering. 
 
 Cleaning. --Perhaps no more effectual and easy mode
of cleaning wine and beer bottles can be recommended than that commonly
adopted, viz., the use of small shot and water; in the case of old port wine
bottles, however, it often occurs that the mechanical action of the shot does
not remove the hardened crust from the interior; a small quantity of pearlash
or soda, or still better, washing liquids, added to the water, will soften the
crust sufficiently to permit its easy removal. There is, however, one objection
to the use of shot for the purpose of cleaning bottles; unless due care be
taken, by the violence of the shaking it often happens that several become
firmly wedged between the bottom and sides of the bottles, and are not removed
by the subsequent rinsings of clean water, and if the bottles are used for acid
wines or other liquids, (almost all home-made wines contain a considerable
portion of free acid,) the shots are slowly dissolved; and from the metallic
arsenic which they contain, as well as from the lead itself, the liquid is
rendered poisonous. This effect may be readily guarded against by removing any
shots which may have become fixed, by a stiff wire slightly hooked at the
end. 
 Decanters are formed of flint glass, which is much softer and more readily
scratched than the common kinds; they require therefore a less rough treatment;
in general, warm (not boiling) water, with the addition of a few pieces of
coarse brown paper, and if requisite a little soda, will be found effectual;
should greater force be required, a small portion of tow wrapped round the
notched end of a moderately stiff wire, and used with a little strong soda,
will be found sufficient. Sand or ashes should never be employed in cleaning
decanters, as they roughen and totally disfigure the brilliant surface of the
glass. 
 
 Drying. --It is scarcely necessary to speak of the
advantages of being able to dry thoroughly both decanters and common bottles;
if the former, after having been cleaned, are put away wet, they become musty;
and many liquids are much injured by being put into wet bottles. Some of our
readers have doubtless experienced the inefficiency of the ordinary means of
drying decanters, &c.; after draining for some days they still remain damp,
and if placed near a fire the warmth merely drives the vapor to the colder part
of the vessel; they may, however, be readily and quickly dried after draining,
by making them slightly warm and blowing in fresh air with a pair of bellows,
which rapidly carries out the damp vapor, and leaves the vessel perfectly dry.
If bellows are not at hand, the damp air may be 
 drawn out  (not blown) with the mouth, assisted by a
tube sufficiently long to reach nearly to the bottom of the decanter; in the
laboratory a piece of glass tube is usually taken, being always at hand, but
for domestic use a piece of paper may be rolled up so as to form an
extemporaneous and effectual substitute. 
 
 Corking. --Little can be said with regard to the
corking of bottles, beyond stating the fact that cheap bad corks are always
dear; the best corks are soft, velvety, and free from large pores; if squeezed
they become more elastic and fit more closely. If good corks are used of
sufficiently large size to be extracted without the corkscrew, they may be
employed many times in succession, especially if they are soaked in boiling
water  afterwards, which restores them to their
original shape, and renews their elasticity. 
 
 Tying down. --The operation of tying down corks
merits a longer notice, as without it many effervescent liquids could not be
preserved. The most common mode of fastening down corks, is with the
ginger-beer knot, which is thus made: First the loop is formed as in 
 Fig. 1  then that part of the string which passes
across the loop is placed on the top of the cork, and the loop itself passed
down around the neck of the bottle, and by pulling the ends of the cord is made
tight beneath the rim; the ends of the cord is made tight beneath the rim; the
ends of the string are finally brought up, and tied either in a double knot, or
in a bow on the top of the cork. When ginger-beer is made at home, it will be
found most advantageous to use the best corks, and to tie them down with a bow,
when both corks and strings may be made use of repeatedly. 
 
 
 Fig. 1  
 A loop in a string with the loop un top of the
strings. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 2  
 String heading up and then curving to the left and then passing
under itself and then exiting to the right. 
 
 For effervescent wines, such as champagne, gooseberry,
&c., which require to be kept a longer time, and are more valuable, a
securer knot is desirable, which may be made thus:--A loop as in 
 Fig. 2  is first formed, and the lower end is
then turned upwards and carried behind the loop as shown at 
 Fig. 3;  it is then pulled through the loop as
in 
 Fig. 4,  and in this state is put over the
neck of the bottle; the part 
 a  being on one side, and the two parts of the loop
on the other; on pulling the two ends the whole becomes tight round the
neck, and the ends, which should be quite opposite, are to be brought up
over the cork, twice twisted, as in 
 Fig. 5,  and then tied in a single knot. 
 
 
 Fig. 3  
 An illustration of a loop in a knot to secure a top on
effervescent wines. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 4  
 An illustration of a loop in a knot to secure a top on
effervescent wines. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 5  
 An Illustration of the final loop in a knot to secure a top on
effervescent wines. 
 
 
 Stoppering. --The stoppering of bottles is an
operation usually performed by the makers; it may, however, be useful to know
that badly fitting stoppers may be readily fitted by regrinding; this is done
by dipping the stopper in a mixture of fine sand, or still better, emery
and water, replacing it, and turning it backwards and forwards with a
slight pressure; fresh sand must be applied from time to time. When the fitting
is exact, so that the stopper turns freely without shaking, the whole may be
finished off by using a little fine emery and oil. 
 
 Unstoppering. --This operation is much more likely to
be required than the last one described, for the stoppers of decanters,
smelling-bottles, &c., from various causes, frequently become fixed, and
many are the fractures both of bottles and stoppers, caused by the misdirected
efforts to remove them. In treating of the various means that may be
employed  we will mention them in the order in
which they should be tried, beginning with the simpler and more easy, and
passing on to those which are more effectual, and at the same time,
unfortunately, more dangerous. The first method, then, that should be tried, is
to press the stopper upwards with the fore-finger and thumb of the left hand
(the other fingers holding the neck of the bottle), and at the same time
giving the stopper a succession of short, sharp, light taps, with the wooden
handle of a chisel, knife, or small hammer; care must be taken not to strike
the stopper with sufficient force to break it, and it should be borne in mind
that it is not the force of the blow, but the vibration, or jar, which is
effectual in loosening it; should this plan be found ineffectual after a short
trial, it may probably be from the stopper being cemented by some substance,
such as the dried sugar of a sweet wine. In such cases we should
endeavor to dissolve the cement by a suitable solvent, which should be placed
in the groove between the stopper and the bottle; thus if the stopper is
cemented with sugar, gum, or salt, water may be used; in
many circumstances, oil is advantageous, or spirit, or even
strong acid may be used; whatever liquid is employed it should be allowed to
remain some days, being renewed if requisite, and the tapping, &c., should
be again had recourse to. 
 Should these methods fail, a piece of cloth may be dipped in very hot
water and wrapped round the neck of the bottle, when the heat causes
the expansion of the glass, and if the stopper be tapped or twisted 
 before  the heat has had time to enlarge it, its
removal may be effected; this operation must necessarily be a quick one, for if
the stopper is heated and enlarged, as well as the bottle, it is obvious that
no benefit will result. In the laboratory it is often customary to heat the
bottle, not by a strip of cloth dipped in hot water, but by turning it
rapidly over the flame of a lamp; in this way there is more danger of cracking
the bottle, and the plan is not to be recommended in general, although employed
with considerable success by those who, like operative chemists, are constantly
in the habit of applying heat to glass vessels. It will at once be seen that
the plan is fraught with great danger if applied to bottles containing
inflammable liquids, as spirits, &c. 
 The most effectual mode of removing stoppers, especially those of small
bottles, such as smelling-bottles, remains to be described. Take a piece of
strong cord, about a yard or four feet in length, double it at the
middle, and tie a knot 
 (Fig. 6, b)  so as to form a loop 
 (a)  of about four inches in length at the doubled
end, bring the knot close to one side of the stopper, and tie the ends tightly
together on the opposite side, as at 
 Fig. 7, e,  so as to fasten the string
securely round the neck of the stopper; now pass one of the ends through
the loop 
 (a),  and then tie it firmly to the other end; the
doubled cord is then to be placed over a bar or other support, then if the
bottle is surrounded by a cloth to prevent accidents in case of fracture, and
pulled downwards with a jerk, the force of which is gradually increased, it
will be found that in a short time the stopper is liberated. Two precautions
 
 
 Fig. 6.  
 An illustration of a knot that is used to remove stoppers from
bottles. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 7.  
 An illustration of a bottle top showing how the knot is used to
remove the stopped from a bottle. 
   are requisite; one is, that the
strain on both sides of the stopper is equal; the other, that care be taken
that when the stopper is liberated, it is not dashed by the rebound against any
hard substance, which would cause its fracture. 
 CUTTING, GRINDING, AND WRITING ON GLASS. 
 We have described the most advantageous modes of extracting fixed stoppers
from decanters, &c. It is possible that some of our readers may have
followed our advice sufficiently well to have succeeded, 
 in cracking the necks of their decanters.  In
case any should have been so unfortunate, or rather we would say, if we were
quite sure we were not addressing ladies--so clumsy, let them not despair;
dexterity in manipulation comes by practice; and as no evil is without a
remedy, we will next consider what can be done with the broken decanter. Unless
it is cracked down to the bottom, it may be cut off and converted into a
handsome sugar basin; or if not high enough for that purpose, will serve
for a pickle-dish, or a flower-stand, &c.; and in the same way, a
tumbler broken at the upper part will furnish an elegant salt-cellar, or
serviceable soap-dish; and even common bottles, if sufficiently stout,
may be made into useful jars, instead of being consigned to the dust-heap. 
 The operation of cutting glass, consists in leading a crack in the required
direction; this is readily done by a hot iron rod, a piece of pointed burning
charcoal, or, what is still better, a burning pastile--which is somewhat
similiar in its composition to those used for fumigation; and which latter,
although rather expensive, and inconvenient from their shape, may be applied
for the purpose. When the operation of cutting up glass vessels into useful
forms is much had recourse to, pastiles are prepared for the purpose, being
superior to a heated iron rod, as they continue to burn and retain their heat,
whilst the latter requires to be re-heated, if the crack has to be led any
considerable distance. Pastiles are readily made by rubbing up half an ounce of
powdered gum tragacanth with water, so as to form a mucilage about as
thick as ordinary starch; this should be allowed to remain a few hours,
and then mixed with a quarter of an ounce of benzoin, previously dissolved in
the smallest possible quantity of proof spirit; after mixing them
together in a mortar, as much powdered charcoal should be added as will
form a stiff paste, and the whole 
 well  worked together, rolled into sticks the size of
a common black-lead pencil, and dried. As thus prepared, they should be free
from cracks, and solid throughout; and on being ignited at the end, they will
burn steadily away to a point. If an iron rod is used, it should be nearly as
stout as the little finger, and taper at the end for an inch and a half to a
blunt point. Before commencing the line along which it is wished to divide the
glass, it should be marked with a pen and ink, and allowed to dry, when the
iron, heated to dull redness, on the lighted extremity of the pastile, should
be brought to the end of a crack, being held in a slanting direction with
regard to the glass, as shown in the cut, and slowly moved in an oblique
direction towards the line; the crack will be found to follow the heated point,
and may thus be led as required, even passing over parts varying very
considerably in thickness, as in the case of the flutings on a cut decanter;
but it cannot, with certainty, be made to pass suddenly from a very thin to a
very stout part, or the reverse: thus it may be led around the sides of a
tumbler, but could hardly be made to pass down one side, across  the bottom and up the other. The rapidity with which the
operation is performed, depends upon the heat of the iron or pastile; if the
former is very hot, or the latter made to burn more vividly by blowing upon it,
the operation is quickened, but it is not performed with so much certainty, as
the crack may pass on further than is desirable: care should be taken not to
lead the crack to near the edge of the vessel, or to another crack, as
in that case it is apt to leave the proper course, and fly suddenly to the
edge, to which an inexperienced operator should not attempt to go nearer than
half an inch. 
 
 An illustration of a glass being etched. 
 
 It sometimes occurs that a piece is broken out of a glass, without leaving
any crack to commence from; in this case, one must be made, by heating the edge
(one formed by the fracture, if possible) with the iron or pastile, and
instantly applying the moistened finger. When a crack is formed, which may be
used as described above, care must be taken not to cause an extensive fracture,
which may run across the intended line of division; this may be avoided by
commencing the crack at some distance from the line, and by applying the heated
point for a very short time, preferring to make two or three unsuccessful
attempts rather than to hasten the operation, and risk the destruction of the
glass. When a glass vessel has been thus divided, the edges are sufficiently
sharp to cut the fingers in handling, and are usually wavy; it is therefore
necessary to make them smooth and even. The most ready way of doing this is, by
grinding them down on a flat sandstone, or ordinary paving-stone, with a little
sharp sand or emery, and water, taking care to move the glass in
a circular direction, and not merely backwards and forwards; the smoothness of
the whole will depend entirely on that of the stone, and on the fineness of the
sand or emery employed. If, from any irregularity, there is much glass
to grind away, it is preferable to commence with sand, and finish with
emery on a smooth stone; if the edges are not thus ground down, they
should have the sharp angles, which are really dangerous, removed by a fine
file, which should be moistened with oil of turpentine or camphene, as
this liquid has an extraordinary effect in increasing the action of the file
upon the glass, and at the same time protecting the steel instrument from
wear. 
 Advantageous as cracks are in glass vessels whenever we wish to separate
them into two parts, they are by no means desirable under other circumstances;
and it is as important to know how to stop their progress, as to lead
them forward. This is readily done in stout glass, by drilling a hole about
half an inch in advance of the crack, which gradually passes on into it, and
then its farther progress is arrested. Holes may be drilled in glass with a
common drill and bow, the place being first marked with a file or flint, and
the drill point kept wet with oil of turpentine. It is hardly necessary
to state, that a crack existing in the neck of a decanter, and liable to
be forced apart with the stopper, could not be arrested in its progress by such
means. If necessary, a little emery powder may be used with oil
of turpentine; and after the operation, the hole must be filled up with some
cement; if  the vessel is to be used for holding
liquids, a little fresh slacked lime, moistened with equal parts of
white of egg and water, may be used for this purpose. 
 The grinding of glass on a flat stone with sand or emery, and
water, is often useful in making a bottle stand steadily; and by its
means a wineglass with a broken foot may be turned to good account; for
if as much of the stem as possible is knocked off, by striking it with the back
of a knife, the remainder may be ground away so that the vessel will stand. 
 One of the most important Domestic Manipulations, although one of the most
simple and easy, is the labelling of glass vessels. It is not too much to
affirm, that scores of lives might have been saved if this had been attended
to. In cases of accidental poisoning, we usually find that the victim has drunk
from some bottle which has been put away without a label; and thus some
corrosive liquid used for cleaning, or some poisonous lotion, has been
inadvertently swallowed. One of the most ready modes of labeling glass, and
other objects, consists in having at hand a sheet of paper, which has
had spread on one side some gum water, mixed with half its weight of
coarse brown sugar, and allowed to dry; this may be cut into labels,
written on, and readily attached to glass by moistening with the tongue;
the white margin of a sheet of postage stamps answers the purpose very
well. If, however, acid liquids are used, or the vessel is placed in a damp
situation, as a cellar, other means must be had recourse to. With a little
practice, it is easy to write in a legible, though not very conspicuous manner,
on glass, with a gun-flint, or with the sharp-edged fragments of common flint.
In the laboratory what is called a 
 writing  diamond is used for this purpose; this
should not be confounded with a glazier's diamond, which is used for dividing,
and not scratching glass. We would here caution our readers against writing on
glass with a diamond ring, &c., as the practice injures the jewel
considerably; in the glazier's diamond, the natural edges of the crystal are
used, which are not liable to injury as are the cut angles of a brilliant. 
 When glass vessels are exposed to damp, the best mode of writing on them is
to prepare an ink for the purpose, by mixing the common cheap varnish, called
Brunswick black, with half its weight of oil of turpentine, or what is
the same thing, in a purer state, camphene; this should be kept in a closely
corked bottle, and used with a broad nibbed quill pen; it soon dries, and
though pale, is very distinct, and almost imperishable. If it is required much
darker, about a quarter of an hour after it has been done, a little lampblack
should be rubbed over it, with cotton or wadding, when it immediately becomes
as black as common ink, and resists damp, and rubbing or wiping with either wet
or dry cloths for a very long time. The same ink is equally advantageous for
use with white earthenware; and although we have never had occasion to
use such a mixture, there is no doubt that a little whiting mixed thin,
with any common varnish, would furnish an equally useful ink for writing on
black bottles. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XII. DECANTING,
STRAINING, AND FILTERING OF LIQUIDS. 
 The decanting of liquids is, under ordinary circumstances, an operation
sufficiently simple to require no explanation; but the ease and certainty with
which it can be performed, depend entirely upon the form of the vessel from
which the liquid is poured; the adhesion existing between liquids and solids
giving rise to  a tendency in the former to run
down the outside of the vessel; and if the latter is nearly full, or very large
in circumference, or the sides approach the perpendicular direction, this
accident almost always occurs. The difficulty of returning a glass of wine to
the decanter, or of pouring from one full tumbler into another, are well known
examples of this inconvenience. 
 Advantage may, however, be taken of the adhesion of liquids to solids, and
by it the former may be led into the required direction. This cannot be better
illustrated than by a description of the means by which a glass of wine may be
returned, without spilling, to the decanter. If a teaspoon is dipped into the
wine, so as to become wetted with it, and then held perpendicularly with the
bowl downwards, and the point over, but not touching, the entrance into the
decanter, and the edge of the glass be made to touch the back of the spoon, it
will be found, on inclining the former, that the wine, having a perpendicular
solid body to adhere to and run down, will do so in preference to trickling
along the oblique outer surface of the wineglass; and in this mode a liquid may
be poured steadily out of any similiar vessel with so little disturbance as not
to agitate any sediment that may exist in it. In the laboratory of the chemist,
a piece of glass rod is usually employed for this purpose; but a spoon, or
pencil, or any similiar substance having a surface capable of being wetted by
the liquid, answers equally well. 
 If, however, the vessel out of which it is wished to decant is large, very
full, or the sides, on pouring, are nearly perpendicular, the plan is not
successful; thus, it could not be employed in aiding the transfer of the liquid
from one full tumbler to another. Even this may be accomplished without the aid
of a funnel, or without spilling, by preventing the adhesion of the liquid to
the edge or side of the vessel out of which it is poured, which may be readily
done by greasing the rim, when it will be found quite practicable to pour out
of a nearly full tumbler without spilling. 
 In many instances, the employment of a syphon in decanting will be found
very advantageous, particularly when the containing vessel is large, and cannot
be readily moved, or when there is any sediment which it is desirable not to
disturb. The most simple form of this instrument consists of a tube, bent as in

 Fig. 1,  with one leg shorter than the other; this
may be made of glass, pewter, or, in fact, of any kind of stiff tubing that
will retain its form--a piece of gutta percha pipe, carefully bent by a
moderate warmth, whilst a piece of stout cord is in the interior to prevent the
sides closing together, answers very well. Before use, the syphon must be
filled with liquor; this is best accomplished by turning it upside down, with
the opening to the short leg raised on a level with that of the long one, when
the liquid should be poured into the former. When both legs are filled, they
should be closed with the fingers; the shorter leg introduced into the liquid
it is wished to draw off; and the opening of the longer leg brought to a lower
level than that of the shorter, and on removing the fingers the liquid will
flow as in 
 Fig. 1,  until it is below the level of the short
leg. If the syphon is made of small tubing, or is lessened at
 
 
 Fig. 1.  
 An illustration of a syphon used in decanting. 
   the opening so as not to exceed
one quarter of an inch in diameter, there will be no occasion to close the end
of more than one leg with the finger, as the liquid will not flow when
it is brought to the proper position unless both orifices are open; and thus
the necessity of plunging the finger into the liquid is obviated, and the
syphon can also be used with a narrow-necked bottle, into which the hand could
not be passed. 
 To do away with the necessity of filling the syphon before use, the
instrument is usually made with a sucking tube, as in 
 Fig. 2;  in this case, all that is requisite
is, to introduce the short leg, close the opening to the long one, and
by the action of the mouth, draw up the liquid until both legs are full,
when on removing the finger, the stream will flow. A very ingenious syphon of
this kind is described by the German chemist Mohr; it is thus
constructed:--Take a long Eau de Cologne bottle, and, with a file and
turpentine, make a deep notch across, about an inch and a half from the bottom;
then, with a charcoal point or pastile, or hot iron, produce a crack,
and cut off the bottom, grinding it smoothly; then take a tube bent at an angle
of forty-five degrees, and, by means of a 
 good  cork, perforated with a rat-tail rasp, fit it
tightly in the bottom of the bottle, and add also another piece of tubing for a
suction tube; the whole will then have the appearance represented in 
 Fig. 3,  and will form an exceedingly useful,
and very convenient syphon. 
 
 
 Fig. 2.  
 An illustration of a sucking tube from a syphon. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 3.  
 An illustration of a syphon described by the German chemist
Mohr. 
 
 In emptying large stone bottles or carboys, the following plan may be had
recourse to:--Perforate a sound cork with two openings by a rat-tail rasp, and
fit, air-tight, two tubes bent as in 
 Fig. 4.  On blowing through the upper, the
liquid will be forced to ascend and run over the bend of the other, which will
then act as a syphon. This plan is exceedingly useful in emptying carboys of
corrosive liquids, as oil of vitriol, &c.; and if all the joints
are--as they should be--air-tight, the flow may be arrested by closing the
upper tube with the finger. In the figure the outer leg of the syphon is
shortened to save space; in practice it must be of sufficient length to be
lower than the inner leg within the vessel. 
 
 
 Fig. 4.  
 An illustration of a syphon used to empty large stone bottles or
carboys. 
 
 If a syphon is required frequently for decanting the same kind of liquid, it
is found troublesome to be constantly filling it before each time of using;
this trouble is obviated by the use of an instrument  formed with legs of equal length, which are turned up
at the ends, as in 
 Fig. 5;  this having been filled, may be hung
up in the erect position, and the liquid will not escape, but on plunging one
end into a liquid, it will be found immediately to flow from the other,
provided that the latter is below the level of the surface of the liquid. 
 
 
 Fig. 5.  
 An illustration of an instrument for syphoning, formed with legs
of equal length, which are turned up at the ends. 
 
 The operations of straining and filtering are frequently required in
domestic manipulations, and the apparatus employed usually consists of sieves
and a jelly-bag. As, in many other instances, it will be found advantageous to
import several contrivances from the laboratory to the kitchen, one of the most
useful (because most simple) strainers consists of a square frame, formed of
four pieces of wood nailed together at the corners, with a piece of calico,
linen, or canvas, of suitable fineness, tacked to the four sides; this strainer
is particularly useful in separating any solid substance--as the residue in
making wines--or if grated potatoes are put on one made of coarse cloth, the
starch can be readily washed through, leaving the useless portion on the
strainer; the cloth should not be tacked very loosely, as it bags down when any
substance is put on it, and the liquid runs away below from the centre. This
strainer is a most useful one; it is readily made, of any degree of fineness,
and of any size; and it also possesses the great advantage, that, if necessary,
the tacks fastening the cloth can easily be withdrawn, when the substance
remaining can be rolled up in the cloth, and tightly squeezed, to express the
last portions of liquid. 
 In cases where a finer filtration is required than can be obtained by means
of a cloth, as in cleaning turbid wine or spirit, the use of
filtering-paper is recommended. This paper is merely a stouter
kind of blotting-paper, thick varieties of which answer very well for
domestic purposes; it is most simply used by taking a square piece, folding it
into half--by bringing the two opposite edges together--and then folding the
oblong so obtained across its length; by this means a small square is obtained,
one quarter the original size,which may be opened into a hollow cup, having
three thicknesses of paper on one side, which may be opened into a
hollow cup, having three thicknesses of paper on one side, and one on
the other; this is to be placed with the point downwards, in a funnel, and the
liquid poured in; and as soon as the pores of the paper are expanded by
the moisture, it will be found to flow through perfectly clear; care must be
taken in making the filter, not to finger it much where the two foldings cross
each other, as a hole is readily made at that part, and the filter spoiled. The
objection to this simple contrivance is, that from its flat sides applying
themselves closely to those of the funnel, the flow of the liquid is impeded,
and is, therefore, slow. This effect may be obviated by the use of the plaited
filter, the construction of which we will endeavor to describe. A square piece
of filtering, or stout blotting-paper is to be doubled, and the oblong
so obtained is to be again folded in half, when if the last fold is opened, it
will have the appearance of 
 Fig. 6.  From the corners 
 b b,  folds are to be creased in the direction
towards 
 a,  but not reaching it for half an inch; these are
indicated by the dotted lines, which divide the double paper into four
triangles, each of which is to be again folded into eighths, and care must be
taken that
 
 
 Fig. 6.  
 An illustration of how to fold filtering or blotting paper to
filter liquids. 
   all the folds are made the same
way, that is, projecting to the same side of the paper. When complete,
the doubled and creased paper will appear as 
 Fig. 7.  Now divide each eighth into half, by
a fold in the 
 opposite  direction to those previously made, when it
will be found that the whole will readily fold up like a paper fan; the
projecting loose ends which are formed by the corners 
 b,  should be cut off, and the double sides separated
for the first time by blowing them apart, when the whole may be readily opened
out as in 
 Fig. 8.  In making this filter, which takes a
much less time than to follow the description, two precautions are requisite.
The folds should be made at once with one firm pressure, and not with a series
of rubbings; and all the creases should stop short of the middle, otherwise a
hole will be made at that point, long before the filter is completed. The
advantages of this filter are that it exposes a large surface for the liquid to
pass through; and from its only being in contact with the funnel where the
angles project, the current flows away readily. 
 
 
 Fig. 7.  
 An illustration of how the filtering or blotting paper should look
once the folding is complete. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 8.  
 An illustration of a piece of paper that resembles a paper coffee
filter. 
 
 The best means for filtration of water, and the construction of
water filters, will be treated of when we speak of the "domestic
manipulation" connected with that liquid. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. THE MANUFACTURE AND
USE OF CEMENTS. 
 THE term cement, includes all those substances employed for the purpose of
causing the adhesion of two or more bodies, whether originally separate, or
divided by an accidental fracture. As the substances that are required to be
connected together are exceedingly various, and differ very much in their
properties as to texture, &c. &c., and as the conditions under which
they are placed, with regard to heat and moisture, are also exceedingly
variable, a number of cements, possessed of very different properties, are
required; for a cement that answers admirably under one set of circumstances,
may be perfectly useless in others. A vast number of cements are known and used
in the various arts; but they may all be referred to a few classes, and our
object in this paper will be to describe the manufacture and use of the best of
each class, and also to state what are the general principles upon which the
success or failure of cementing usually depends. 
 The different parts of a solid are held together by an attraction between
their several particles, which is termed the attraction of cohesion, or
cohesive attraction. The amount of this varies with the substances; thus, the
cohesion of the particles of iron to one another is enormously great, whilst
that between those of chalk is but small. This attraction acts only when the
particles are in the closest possible contact; even air must not be between
them. The attraction of cohesion which takes place between the parts of the
same substance, must not be confounded with that of adhesion, which is the
attraction of different substances to one another; for example, the particles
of a piece of wood are united by cohesive attraction, whilst the union of glue
and wood to each other depends on adhesive attraction. And it is important that
this distinction be borne in mind, for, in almost all cases, the cohesion
between the particles of the cement is very much less than the adhesion of
the  cement to other bodies; and if torn apart, the
connected joint gives way--not by the loosening of the adhesion--but by the
layer of cement splitting down the centre. Hence the important rule, that the 
 less  cement in a joint, the stronger it is. Domestic
manipulators usually reverse this, by letting as much cement as possible remain
in the joint, which is, therefore, necessarily a weak one. A thick, nearly
solid cement, which cannot be pressed out of the joint, is always inferior to a
thinner one, of which merely a connecting film remains between the united
surfaces. 
 Having thus mentioned the general principles that ought always to be borne
in mind, we will now proceed to describe the manufacture of some of the more
useful cements, and their mode of use. 
 
 Mouth Glue  affords a very convenient means of
uniting papers, and other small light objects; it is made by dissolving by the
aid of heat, pure glue, or gelatine, with about one quarter or one-third of its
weight of coarse brown sugar, in as small a quantity of boiling water as
possible; this, when perfectly liquid, should be cast into thin cakes on a flat
surface 
 very  slightly oiled, and as it cools cut up into
pieces of a convenient size. When required for use one end may be moistened by
the mouth, and is then ready to be rubbed on any substances it may be wished to
join; a piece kept in the desk or work-box is very convenient. 
 
 Paste  is usually made by rubbing up flour with cold
water and boiling; if a little alum is mixed before boiling it is much
improved, being less clammy, working more freely in the brush and thinner; a
less quantity is required, and it is therefore stronger. If required in large
quantity, as for papering rooms, it may be made by mixing one quartern of
flour, one quarter pound of alum and a little warm water; when mixed, the
requisite quantity of boiling water should be poured on whilst the mixture is
being stirred. Paste is only adapted to cementing paper; when used it should be
spread on one side of the paper, which should then be folded with the pasted
side inwards, and allowed to remain a few minutes before being opened and used;
this swells the paper, and permits its being more smoothly and securely
attached. Kept for a few days, paste becomes mouldy, and after a short time
putrid; this inconvenience may be obviated by the use of-- 
 
 Permanent Paste,  made by adding to each half-pint of
flour paste without alum, fifteen grains of corrosive sublimate, previously
rubbed to powder in a mortar, the whole to be well mixed; this, if prevented
from drying, by being kept in a covered pot, remains good any length of time,
and is therefore convenient; but unfortunately it is extremely poisonous,
though its excessively nauseous taste would prevent its being swallowed
accidentally; it possesses the great advantage of not being liable to the
attacks of insects. 
 
 Liquid Glue  is made by dissolving shell-lac in
water, by boiling it with borax, which possesses the peculiar property of
causing the solution of the resinous lac. This preparation is convenient for
its cheapness and freedom from smell, but it gives way if exposed to
long-continued damp, which that made with naphtha resists. 
 Of the use of 
 common glue,  very little need be said; it should
also be prepared in a glue-pot or double vessel to prevent its being burned,
which injures it very materially. The objection to the use of this contrivance
is, that it renders it impossible to heat the glue in the inner vessel to the
boiling point; this inconvenience can be obviated by employing in the outer
vessel some liquid, which  boils at a higher
temperature than pure water, such as saturated solution of salt. This boils at
224° Fahr., 12° above the heat of boiling water, and enables the glue
in the inner vessel to be heated to a much higher temperature than when pure
water is employed. If a saturated solution of nitre is used, the temperature
rises still higher. 
 
 Waterproof Cements  are very numerous; a very good
one for uniting china and glass will be found elsewhere. It should be stated,
however, that the gum ammoniac should be also dissolved in a small quantity of
spirit. Mastic, used instead of ammoniac, makes a clearer cement. This mixture,
under various fanciful titles, is usually sold at a most exorbitant rate. 
 
 Lime and Egg Cement  is frequently made by moistening
the edges to be united, with white of egg, dusting on some lime from a piece of
muslin, and bringing the edges into contact. A much better mode is to slake
some freshly burned lime with a small quantity of 
 boiling  water; this occasions it to fall into a very
fine dry powder, if excess of water has not been added. The white of egg used
should be intimately and thoroughly mixed, by beating, with an equal bulk of
water, and the slaked lime added to the mixture, so as to form a thin paste,
which should be used speedily, as it soon sets. This is a valuable cement,
possessed of great strength, and capable of withstanding boiling water. Cements
made with lime and blood, scraped cheese, or curd, may be regarded as inferior
varieties of it. Cracked vessels, of earthenware and glass, may often be
usefully, though not ornamentally repaired by white lead spread on strips of
calico, and secured with bands of twine. But in point of strength, all ordinary
cements yield the palm to Jeffery's Patented Marine Glue, a compound of
India-rubber, shell-lac, and coal-tar naphtha. When applied to china or glass,
the substances should be cautiously made hot enough to melt the glue, which
should then be rubbed on the edges so as to become fluid, and the parts brought
into contact immediately. When well applied, the mended stem of a common
tobacco-pipe will break at any other part, in preference to the junction. The
color of the glue unfortunately prevents its being used. 
 The 
 Red Cement,  which is employed by instrument-makers
for cementing glass to metals, and which is very cheap, and exceedingly useful
for a variety of purposes, is made by melting five parts of black resin, one
part of yellow wax, and then stirring in, gradually, one part of red ochre or
Venetian red, in fine powder, and previously 
 well dried.  This cement requires to be melted before
use, and it adheres better if the objects to which it is applied are warmed. A
soft cement, of a somewhat similiar character, may be found useful for covering
the corks of preserved fruit, and other bottles, and it is made by melting
yellow wax with an equal quantity of resin, or of common turpentine, (not oil
of turpentine, but the resin), using the latter for a very soft cement, and
stirring in, as before, some dried Venetian red. Bearing in mind our
introductory remarks, it will be seen that the uniting broken substances with a
thick cement is disadvantageous, the object being to bring the surfaces as
closely together as possible. As an illustration of a right and a wrong way of
mending, we will suppose a plaster of Paris figure broken; the wrong way to
mend it is by a thick paste of plaster, which makes, not a joint, but a botch.
The right way to mend it, is by means of some well-made carpenter's glue,
which, being absorbed into the porous plaster, leaves merely a film covering
the two  surfaces. If well done, the figure is
stronger there than elsewhere. 
 One useful substance is termed 
 mastic  cement, which is used for making a superior
coating to inside walls, and which must not be confounded with the 
 resin mastic.  It is made by mixing twenty parts of
well-washed and sifted sharp sand, with two parts of litharge, and one of
freshly burned and slaked quick-lime, in fine 
 dry  powder. This is made into a putty, by mixing
with linseed oil; it sets in a few hours, having the appearance of light
stone; and we mention it as it may be frequently employed with advantage in
repairing broken stone-work (as stairs) by filling up the missing parts. The
employment of Roman cement, plaster, &c., for masonry work, hardly comes
within the limits of Domestic Manipulation. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. DIVIDING,
POWDERING, GRINDING, ETC. 
 THE operations of chopping, powdering, grinding, &c., are so frequently
required in cooking, and the other branches of domestic economy, as to render
any description of their utility wholly unnecessary; and we may therefore
confine ourselves to describing the best means of accomplishing the object
desired. Powdering is usually performed by the aid of the pestle and mortar.
Most of the works on Cookery recommend the use of a marble mortar; this
material is about one of the worst that could be selected for the purpose. In
the first place, it is expensive; secondly, it is rapidly corroded, even by the
weak acids used for food; thirdly, it is readily stained by oily substances;
fourthly, it is absorptive of strong flavors, imparting them readily to the
next substance pounded; and lastly, it is brittle, and even if not broken, is
not calculated to withstand much wear. By far the best material for the purpose
is the Wedgewood ware; mortars made of it are cheaper, cleaner in use, and
stronger than those of marble, and are not corroded by acids or alkalies--their
pre-eminence is so great, that they are invariably used by druggists. 
 The act of powdering requires great tact and practice to perform it neatly
and rapidly. After the object has been broken into small pieces by blows from
the pestle, a grinding action is required; this should at first be given by
striking the fragments, not in the centre of the mortar, but towards the side
furthest from the operator; the pestle, by this means, grinds over them in its
descent to the centre, and much more rapidly accomplishes their division than
if mere blows are given. After the object has been divided to a certain extent,
blows are entirely useless, and a grinding in circles becomes requisite; if the
circle is confined to one part of the mortar, the same portions get rubbed over
and over again, the others escaping; this is avoided by constantly and
regularly altering the size of the circles. If they are commenced in the
centre, they should gradually increase in size until the sides are reached, and
then contract again, and so on. By this means the whole of the powder is
brought under the action of the pestle, and the operation is much quicker than
if performed at random. One great fault usually committed in powdering, is the
endeavor to operate on too large a quantity of material at one time. The
operation is much more rapidly conducted if small portions are taken;
 
 
 Fig. 9.  
 An illustration of a lidded glass jar with a bag of lawn inside it
used as a filter. 
   and if the material is tough, and
contains much fibrous matter, the process may be very much shortened by
removing those parts which are sufficiently powdered, by sifting from time to
time through a sieve. This may be objectionable, however, from the fine powder
escaping into the air; in this case, the following contrivance will be found
useful: A cylindrical tea-canister of the requisite size is taken, with
a loosely fitting lid (or if tight, the lid may be enlarged by four slits being
made partly up the sides); a bag of lawn is dropped into the canister, the top
being turned over the edge; the powder to be sifted is put in a bag, the lid
put on, and, by tapping and shaking, the finest portions pass into the canister
without any escaping into the air--a point of very considerable importance
where the powder is irritating or expensive. 
 All vegetable, and many mineral substances, are much more readily powdered
after having been 
 thoroughly  dried; so far is this process carried,
that many drugs are dried so as to lose fifteen per cent. of their weight
before powdering. After drying, substances should not be exposed to the air,
but, unless they are of such a nature as to be softened by heat, are better
operated on whilst still warm. Flints are more readily powdered by being heated
to redness and quenched in cold water; charcoal, for tooth
powder, whilst still warm from drying. Gum can only be powdered whilst
perfectly dry. Camphor, which is with great difficulty powdered alone,
yields readily if a drop or two of spirit is poured on it. Substances
which clog together and cake under the pestle, are not uncommon; to these it is
sometimes requisite to add sand, which may afterwards be separated--this
prevents the clogging; but its use is often impracticable. Lime, if
required in very fine powder, for dusting over plants to kill slugs, &c.,
is readily obtained by slaking it, when fresh burned, with 
 boiling  water; when, if too much water
is not used, it falls into an exceedingly fine powder. 
 Sal-ammoniac, and some other saline bodies, are most readily powdered
by dissolving them in as small a quantity of boiling water as possible,
and stirring the solution rapidly as the water is boiled away, or as the
solution cools. Before dismissing the pestle and mortar, we may allude to its
use in mixing powders together, although a much more ready mode of doing this
is with a sieve. Two or more powders stirred together and passed two or three
times through a sieve, are much more intimately mixed, than if rubbed for a
long time in a mortar. Metals cannot be divided in the mortar; the most
convenient mode of proceeding, if they are fusible under a white heat,
is to melt them, and pour them whilst liquid into a pail of water, which
should be full to avoid any spluttering, and the hotter the metal, the more
filmy the particles. It is scarcely requisite to state, that the metal should
be poured in a circle, so as not to collect at one place. 
 Chopping is usually performed in the kitchen, with a large common knife; but
is more speedily done by some of the improved contrivances similar to the
following:--The chopping-board should be made of hard wood, with the
grain at right angles to the surface of the board,
 
 
 Fig. 10.  
 An illustration of an X-shaped chopping tool with a long
handle. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 11.  
 An illustration of an S-shaped chopping tool with a long
handle. 
   by which it is rendered much more
durable, than if they are parallel to it. The chopping-knives should be fixed
at right angles to the handles, and may be either of the preceding patterns. If
a large quantity of material has to be acted on, we would recommend a board as
above, not less than three inches thick, and smooth on both sides, so that
either may be used, of the requisite size--say eighteen inches or two
feet in diameter. On this should stand a loose bottomless tub, to
confine the materials, and the whole resting on the floor, should be used with
a knife, sufficiently long in the handle to be employed by a person standing
erect, and it should have a small cross-bar for the hands, as shown in 
 Fig. 12.  
 Small chopping-knives are sold, consisting of three blades riveted together;
and a very convenient one is made by fastening, at convenient distances, a
number of flat circular disks, sharpened at the edges to a central axis with a
handle at each end. 
 Many substances, such as stale bread, dried herbs, &c.,
may be very conveniently powdered by rubbing them through a wire sieve, of the
requisite degree of fineness. Herbs intended for use in this way, should
be dried as rapidly as possible, without being scorched, in small heaps, before
the fire; parsley and others done in this way, may be powdered,
retaining their bright green color and flavor, both of which are preserved if
they are corked tightly in bottles, and kept in a dry, dark cupboard. The use
of waxed paper to preserve dried powders in, or for tying them
down in jars, or generally as a very good substitute for bladder, will often be
found convenient. It is readily made by laying a sheet of smooth stout
paper on a warm iron plate, as the top of a kitchen oven; on this place
the thin tissue or other paper to be waxed; put a piece of wax on it,
and as it melts, rub it over, spreading it evenly. One end of a cork, covered
with two thicknesses of linen, answers very well for a rubber. If a hot plate
is not at hand, the sheet of paper may be held before the fire, and
rubbed over, as it warms, with the cut edge of a cake of white wax; but
this requires the co-operation of two persons. 
 
 
 Fig. 12.  
 An illustration of a bottomless, wooden tub and a long handled
knife. 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XV. KNOTS, PACKAGES,
PARCELS, ETC. 
 THE poet Crabbe, speaking of the writing of the rustics, signing his parish
registers, says-- 
 "Tis strange that men Who guide the plough
should fail to guide the pen! For half a mile the furrows even lie; For half an
inch the letters stand awry." 
 A parallel remark might with equal justice be made on the gentler sex, who,
after exercising a degree of tact, neatness, and tasteful invention, that the
self-styled "lords of the creation" might in vain hope to rival, in the
formation of a piece of needlework, knitting, netting, or crochet, are, for the
most part, totally unable, when it is finished, to tie it up so as to make a
decent parcel; ladies' packages are, in fact, the opprobrium of the sex--the
annoyance of all carriers, who  have any thing to
do with their conveyance, and the torment of their owners; the cords are
certain to become loose, the knots are sure to slip, except when a slip-knot is
requisite, and then it is a fixture! It is in the hope that we may be
instrumental in improving this state of things, that we are induced to devote
this chapter to Knots, Packages, Parcels, &c., and we shall at once lay
before our fair readers a method of tying a parcel neatly and securely, and at
the same time affording facilities for releasing the contents without
destroying the string by cutting it away--a too ordinary practice, especially
where time is an object. 
 The most simple purpose for which a knot is required, is the fastening
together of two pieces of string or cord: the knot selected for this purpose
should possess two important properties;--it should be secure from slipping,
and of small size. Nothing is more common than to see two cords attached
together in a manner similar to that shown in 
 Fig. 13.  It is scarcely possible to imagine a worse
knot; it is large and clumsy, and as the cords do not mutually press each
other, it is certain to slip if pulled with any great force. In striking
contrast to this--the worst of all, we place one of the best; namely, the knot
usually employed by netters, and which is called by sailors "the sheet-bend."
It is readily made by bending one of the pieces of cord into a loop 
 (a b, Fig. 14),  which is to be held between the
finger and thumb of the left hand; the other cord 
 c  is passed through the loop from the farther side,
then round behind the two legs of the loop, and lastly, under itself, the loose
end coming out at 
 d.  In the smallness of its size, and the firmness
with which the various parts grip together, this knot surpasses every other: it
can, moreover, be tied readily when one of the pieces, viz. 
 a b,  is exceedingly short; in common stout twine,
less than an inch being sufficient to form the loop. The above method of
forming it is the simplest to describe, although not the most rapid in
practice; as it may be made in much less time by crossing the two ends of cord 
 (a b, Fig. 15)  on the tip of the fore-finger of the
left hand, and holding them firmly by the left thumb, which covers the
crossing; then the part 
 c  is to be wound round the thumb in a loop as shown
in the figure, and passed between the two ends, behind 
 a  and before 
 b;  the knot is completed by turning the end 
 b  downwards in front of 
 d,  passing it through the loop, securing it under
the left thumb, and tightening the whole by pulling 
 d.  As formed in this mode, it is more rapidly made
than almost any other knot; and, as before stated, it excels all in security
 
 
 Fig. 13.  
 An illustration of a knot that secures two pieces or string or
cord. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 14.  
 An illustration of how to start a sheet-bend knot. 
 
 
 
 Fig.15.  
 An illustration of an alternate way to tie a sheet-bend
knot. 
   and compactness, so firmly do the
various turns grip each other, that after having been tightly pulled, it is
very difficult to untie; this the only drawback to its usefulness, and in this
respect it is inferior to the reef-knot, 
 Fig. 16,  which is made in precisely the same
manner that a shoe-string is tied, only pulling out the ends instead of leaving
them as bows. The only precaution necessary in making a reef-knot is, to
observe that the two parts of each string are on the same side of the loop; if
they are not, the ends (and the bows if any are formed) are at right angles to
the cords; the knot is less secure, and is termed by sailors a granny-knot.
Other knots are occasionally used to connect two cords, but it is unnecessary
to describe them, as every useful purpose may be answered by those
above-mentioned. 
 
 
 Fig. 16.  
 An illustration of a reef-knot. 
 
 The binding knot 
 (Figs.  17 and 18) is exceedingly useful in
connecting broken sticks, rods, &c., but some difficulty is often
experienced in fastening it at the finish; if, however, the string is placed
over the part to be united, as shown in 
 Fig. 17,  and the long end 
 b,  used to bind around the rod, and finally passed
through the loop 
 a,  as shown in 
 Fig. 18,  it is readily secured by pulling 
 d,  when the loop is drawn in, and fastens the end of
the cord. 
 
 
 Fig. 17  
 An illustration of a broken stick or rod and how to begin tying a
binding knot. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 18  
 An illustration of a completed binding knot. 
 
 For fastening a cord to any cylindrical object, one of the most useful knots
is the clove hitch, which, although exceedingly simple and most easily
made, is one of the most puzzling knots to the uninitiated. There are several
modes of forming it, the most simple being perhaps as follows:--make two loops,
precisely similar in every respect as 
 a  and 
 b,  
 Fig. 19,  then bring 
 b  in front of 
 a,  so as to make both loops correspond, and pass
them over the object to be tied, tightening the ends; if this is properly done,
the knot will not slip, although surrounding a tolerably smooth cylindrical
object, as a pillar, pole, &c. This knot is employed by surgeons in
reducing dislocations of the last joint of the thumb, and by sailors in great
part of the standing rigging. The loop which is formed when a cable is passed
around a post or tree to secure a vessel near shore, is fastened by what
sailors term two half hitches, which is simply a clove hitch made by the
end of the rope which is passed around the post or tree, and then made to
describe the clove hitch around that part of itself which is tightly
strained. 
 
 
 Fig. 19.  
 An illustration of a rope/cord with two loops in it, called a
clove hitch. 
 
 From the tying of knots we may pass on to the tying over of bottles,
preserves jars, &c.; the object with which this  operation is performed is either to prevent the excess of
air or the escape or entrance of moisture; the act itself is so very simple as
to require no explanation; but a few words may be said on the choice of
material, which should be varied so as to suit the exigencies of each
particular case. When a vessel of spirit is to be tied over, leather is
frequently selected--a very erroneous practice, as the vapor of spirit
passes readily through that substance, but cannot penetrate bladder, which
should be invariably used for the purpose. So effectually is spirit
confined by bladder, that when weak spirits are put into bladders or
into vessels tied over with bladder, and allowed to remain some time, they are
strengthened, as the vapor of the water passes away, that of the
spirit being retained. 
 Bladder or other animal membranes of the same nature, in a moist and flaccid
state, are usually selected for tying over preserves and jams, for which
they are well adapted. Many persons place a thin piece of brandied paper
in the jar resting on the jam, in addition to tying it down; this assists in
excluding air and preventing mouldiness, but we have found a piece of very thin
paper moistened with white of egg much more efficacious. The thin
sheet-lead used for lining the interior of tea-chests, or stout
tin-foil, is very advantageously used in tying down vessels containing
specimens of natural history preserved in spirits, as they effectually
prevent the escape of the latter for a long series of years. The plan usually
pursued is to tie the cork over first with a single bladder, then with the
metal, and finally with a second piece of bladder, which is afterwards covered
with a coat of black paint. 
 The tying up of parcels in paper is an operation which is seldom
neatly performed by persons whose occupations have not given them great
facilities for constant practice. Whether the paper be wrapped round the
objects, as is the case usually when it is much larger than sufficient to
enclose them, or merely folded over itself, as is done by druggists, who cut
the paper to the required size, it is important that the breadth of the
paper should be no longer than sufficient to enable it to be folded over
the ends of the object enclosed, without passing over the opposite side; it is
impossible to make a neat or close parcel with paper which is too
broad; excess in length may be readily disposed of by wrapping it round; but
excess of breadth should be cut away. With regard to turning in the ends the
mode adopted by grocers is the best. The most common cause of failure in
parcels is their being badly corded; we will, therefore, (however unnecessary
the description of so simple a performance may appear to those already
acquainted with it), describe the most readily acquired mode of cording. 
 Let a single knot be made in the end of the cord, which is then passed round
the box or parcel. This knotted end is now tied by a single hitch round the
middle of the cord 
 (Fig. 20),  and the whole pulled tight. The
cord itself is then carried at right angles round the end of the parcel, and
where it crosses the transverse cord on the bottom of the box 
 (Fig. 21),  it should (if the parcel is heavy,
and requires to be firmly secured) be passed 
 over  the cross cord, then back underneath it, and
pulled tightly, then over itself; lastly, under the cross cord, and on around
the other end of the box. When it reaches the top it must be secured by 
 
 
 Fig. 20.  
 An illustration of a box with rope tied around it. 
   passing it under at that part of
the cord which runs lengthways 
 (a, Fig. 20),  pulling it very tight, and
fastening it by two half hitches round itself. The great cause of parcels
becoming loose is the fact of the cord being often fastened to one of the
transverse parts (as 
 b, Fig. 20),  instead of the piece running
lengthways, and in this case it invariably becomes loose. The description may
perhaps be rendered clearer by the aid of the figures, which exhibit the top
and bottom of a box corded as described. The cords, however, are shown in a
loose state to allow their arrangements to be perceived more easily. 
 
 
 Fig. 21.  
 An illustration of a box with rope tied around it. 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 IN spite of our receipts and our philosophy, the briskness of the fire, the
skill of our cook, the excellence of the oven, the bright array of pots,
kettles, pans, moulds, griddles and gridirons, and the presiding genius of even
a half Fortunatus sort of a purse, or the most rigid scale and measure of
economy, one grand puzzle besets alike all kitchens--the difficulty of really
getting the ingredients on which the mystery of food manufacture is to be
exercised. 
 The very water we have to cook with, is crowded with millions of
monsters--things with two heads and no heads, with countless legs and no legs,
with jaws and pincers and claws, and most wonderful springy tails; in some
water well nigh enough of them to make a sort of soup, to say nothing of the
chalk, lime, iron, and a host of other impurities. 
 The sugar, if it be brown, without taking note of such items as a little
lead, a good deal of sand, some clay and flour, is pretty nearly as thick as it
can hold of chips of cane and swarms of mites. 
 Our tea, if green, is painted and polished with Prussian blue, turmeric
powder, and China clay, and is a mixture of all the leaves that the wonderful
industry and ingenuity of the Chinese, can accomplish; we have old tea-leaves
dried and twisted up, and colored and glazed, and sold for black and green; we
have even gunpowder made up of dust and sand, and gum, faced as they call it
with plumbago. 
 Coffee, fragrant, and refreshing, has almost become a myth; we may have
pneumatic coffee-pots that will not let the finest dust pass through their
strainers, French coffee-pots, German coffee-pots, and all kinds of traditional
directions for the manufacture: but not one of them can help us to make coffee,
unless as good old Mrs. Glass would say, "we have first got our coffee;" and
what with foreign roguery and home roguery the chances are twenty to one
against us, that the brown powder we are at so much pains with, once flourished
at the end of a blue flower, on a long stalk under our own hedges, being known
where it grew under the name of wild endive, christened in trade chicory, and
being in reality a tall and aristocratic sort of dandelion, possessing too the
medicinal properties of dandelion, and none whatever of the properties of
coffee. But even if people be taken with a liking for this dandelion tea
instead of coffee, they cannot have it pure. The chicory itself is far too
costly to content the avaricious roguery of a number of dealers,  and so it is adulterated with roasted corn, parsnips,
manglewurzel, beans, Egyptian lupin seed, biscuit powder, burnt sugar, roasted
carrots, oak bark, tan, acorns, mahogany sawdust, and no little sand, the
result of the original dirt judiciously left as a make-weight upon the root of
the chicory itself. 
 Mustard can scarcely be said to have even the color of mustard, for it is
colored with turmeric, and what passes for mustard is in many a case little
more than mere husks and flour. 
 Pepper is messed up with wheat flour, mustard-seed husks, sago-meal, pea
flour, and ware-house sweepings; nor does it fare better with food for
invalids, oatmeal being mingled with far less digestive barley-meal at half the
price. Arrow-root (which it should be understood is the produce of under-ground
branches or bulbs of the maranta plant, growing in the West and East Indies,
having gained its name of arrow-root from the belief that it was a remedy
against poisoned arrows,) is to the utmost economized; and though its purity is
often of great importance to the invalid, there is for the most part sold
instead, sago-flour, tapioca-flour, and most commonly of all,
potato-starch. 
 Milk and bread are not so much adulterated. But the milk, partly by the kind
of keep of the cows, partly by a little careful skimming, and in a multitude of
cases by the liberal aid of the pump, is duly thinned. Flour and bread, of old
mixed with plaster of Paris, ground bones, and potato-starch--thanks to the
cheapening of pure materials, has come to content itself with alum only. But
this running account of roguery, except for its curiousness, would be of little
use without a few hints, as to partial detection and prevention. 
 As to tea, it is best to be content with black tea alone. 
 For sugar, the best advice is--if you like to pay for dirt, and to mix it
with your preserves, puddings, and pastry, and choose to believe that sugar
which moistens even the thick paper they place it in, and which looks dark,
smells strong, and sticks to your fingers, is richer in sweetening than clear
sparkling white sugar, out of which none of the sweetening but all of the dirt
has been washed--then buy brown sugar. 
 "Please tell the people over the way," said a gentleman, "that I would take
it as a particular favor, if in future they will send me the cow's hairs on one
plate, and the butter on another, and I can mix them myself as I want them."
Such is our advice as to coffee. It seems beyond the reach of average human
honesty to sell it pure. The chicory is so fragrant--so wholesome--such an
improvement on the flavor of the Arabian berry, and withal so much cheaper,
that mixed it must be. We say, therefore, Buy your coffee in the berry, raw;
your chances are at all events fifty to one better of having coffee only. Roast
and grind it for yourselves, and, if you like chicory or dandelion, endive, or
any other weed with it, why, buy the roots, scorch them and grate them, and,
like the man with the hairs in his butter, mix them to your taste. But do not,
unless you choose to cheat your stomachs, buy ground coffee. A mill will soon
pay for itself; and at all events never purchase canistered or bottled coffee,
for in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred an additional dose of dust is made to
pay for the tin or glass. *  
 *It may not be amiss to show how tea is made in
China, and coffee amongst the Turks. 
 The art of making tea consists in pouring the water on and off immediately,
so as to get the flavor. 
 Coffee-making is a more intricate affair, and cannot be fully conveyed in a
receipt. The coffee must be slowly roasted, not burnt, and brought only to an
amber brown; it must be roasted day by day, and reduced by pounding to an
impalpable powder. In making it, two opposite and apparently incompatible  ends are to be secured--strength and flavor. To
obtain the first, it must be boiled; by boiling, the second is lost. The
difficulty is surmounted by a double process,--one thorough cooking, one slight
one; by the first a strong infusion is obtained, by the second that infusion is
flavored. Thus a large pot with coffee-lees stands simmering by the fire; this
is the sherbet. When a cup is wanted, the pounded coffee is put in the little
tin or copper pan, and placed on the embers; it fumes for a moment, then the
sherbet is poured on; in a few seconds the froth (caïmah) rises; presently
an indication that it is about to boil is made manifest, when the coffee is
instantly taken from the fire, carried into the apartment, turned into the cup,
and drunk."--
 Urquhart's Pillars of Hercules.  
 As to water--every one knows that plumbers make the bottoms of the cisterns
thicker than the sides, because the water eats the lead away; hard water does
so more than soft, and water from the same source more at the some times than
others. Lead, as the phrase is, accumulates in the system, so that ever so
little, taken day by day, at length sums up to a poisonous dose sufficient to
mar the health. The remedy for this mischief is simply to have the pipes made
of gutta percha. Many spring waters, though of course free from the animal
impurities, abound still more in the medicinal. To render such waters fit for
healthful use, some process of purification is absolutely essential, and such
purification very perceptively improves both their cooking and washing
properties. 
 Ordinary filters certainly free water from a considerable quantity of dirt,
but not from the medicinal ingredients, nor even from all the animalculæ,
some of which, though quite visible as monsters with a microscope, nevertheless
find their way through the filter. One of the simplest processes of
purification, if people will only take the trouble to perform it--and it is
surely worth it for the increase of comfort and the advantage to
health--is--for every forty gallons that the cistern holds to pour in one
gallon of lime-water; this has the effect of throwing down from the water a
large proportion of the chemical ingredients, and no small multitude of the
animalculæ. Another method of purification is by long slow boiling, then
allowing the water to cool, and filtering it. Some trouble no doubt there is in
any such course; but pure water, like pure air, is essential to a life of
health, and those who will not be at the trouble, must make up their minds to
some degree of infirmity and unhappiness. 
 The subject of the Water-supply to large towns is one of the highest
importance to the well-being of the community. 
 The quality of water for domestic purposes depends mainly upon its degree of
hardness or softness; and this in its turn depends almost entirely upon the
quantity of lime dissolved in some form or other in the water. It is found,
upon experiment, that one gallon (weighing 70,000 grains) of 
 pure  water will not dissolve more than two grains of
chalk, and so acquire two degrees of hardness; and that whenever more is
contained in water, the excess is always owing to the presence of carbonic acid
gas, which enables it to dissolve a much larger quantity. The practical part of
our subject depends on this fact; for if by any means we can get rid of the
carbonic acid, the dissolved chalk is necessarily precipitated, and the hard
water, unfit for culinary and domestic purposes, becomes soft, and well adapted
to both these uses. Carbonic acid is in part expelled from water by heating it
to the boiling point: a still larger quantity is got rid of after boiling for
some few minutes, and nearly every trace disappears at the end of half an hour;
and just in proportion as the carbonic acid gas is expelled, so does the
chalk fall, rendering the water in the first instance turbid, and
becoming deposited on the interior surface of kettles,  where it forms the well-known rock of 
 fur.  
 It has been found that water of 14 degrees of hardness lost two
degrees when merely made to boil; boiling for five minutes reduced the hardness
to 6 degrees; and for a quarter of an hour, to little more than 4 degrees. The
practical application of this knowledge needs scarcely to be pointed out.
Whenever a soft water is required, boil for several minutes before
using. In making tea, for instance, the economy and general superiority
of a soft water is well known. How many a young gentleman, with a
smattering of science just enough to inform him that water gets no
hotter however long or violently it is boiled, has laughed at his grandmother's
antiquated notions, because she requested that the water might be made
to boil thoroughly before the tea was made: the old lady could give no
very satisfactory explanation of her prejudice, yet it was not the less a
correct one. 
 Before going further in this matter, it may be stated that there are some
waters in which the lime is dissolved in the form of gypsum (sulphate of
lime): in these, the hardness is of a permanent character, and cannot be
lessened by boiling. Tea made under such circumstances may be improved,
either by the addition of a 
 very small  quantity of carbonate of soda, or
the tea should be kept soaking for half an hour, under such
circumstances as will retain the heat. 
 In washing, the use of hard water is, as is well known, extremely
prejudicial. The explanation is exceedingly simple: every degree of hardness in
a gallon of water destroys 10 grains of soap. 
 There is one practical matter of great importance, to which we wish to draw
the attention of all concerned: it is the effect of boiling linen in hard
water. If clothes are put into cold water, and then boiled the
precipitation of chalk takes place on the clothes, and whatever coloring
matter exists in the water goes down with the chalk, and also
becomes attached to the linen, rendering it of that disagreeable and
unremovable dirty hue which is so characteristic of certain laundries. If
boiling is absolutely requisite for white fabrics, it should be done in
water which has been boiled half an hour, allowed to stand, and then
poured off from the sediment; otherwise, from the immediate precipitation of
the chalk, the dirt is boiled in and thoroughly fixed to the fabric. A
moment's consideration will convince any one, that a deposit similar to the 
 fur  in a tea-kettle cannot be expected to
improve the appearance of white linen. Where clean rain water can
be obtained, there is no objection to the boiling of clothes in it; as, being
absolutely free from lime, no precipitation can take place. The use of
soda in softening water employed in washing, is well known; but
the remedy is not without its own evil: it weakens the fibre of the cloth, and
unless it is much more thoroughly removed by rinsing than is usually the case,
it occasions a very permanent yellow tinge when the cloth is heated. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. BOILING,
STEWING, ETC. 
 FROM considering the properties of hard and soft water, we pass by a natural
transition to the employment of that liquid in culinary operations. In
practice, nothing can at first sight appear more simple than the operation of
boiling, whether it be confined to the mere heating of a liquid, or extended to
the preparation of an article of food; yet it is one which involves chemical
principles of a very high order, and which is by no  means so simple a matter as it may be regarded at a cursory
glance. 
 To trace the steps of the process from its commencement, let us imagine a
vessel of water placed over the fire, and receiving constantly a supply of heat
from that source; the effect is, that its temperature gradually rises from
about 50° or 60°, the usual warmth of ordinary water, to 212°, the
point at which boiling takes place; but before it reaches that height, a number
of bubbles may be observed foaming on the sides of the vessel; these gradually
increase in size, and when they become sufficiently buoyant, quit their
position, rise to the surface, and escape; they consist of air previously
dissolved in the water, and which is expelled by the increased heat. Water
which has been boiled and allowed to become cold, without much exposure to the
air, fails to reabsorb the quantity it previously contained, and consequently
has its character somewhat altered. Thus, it freezes more readily than water
which has not been boiled, in consequence of the air not having to be expelled
in the act of solidifying, as is usually the case: hence, the ice from boiled
water is free from those numerous air bubbles which are always to be observed
in common ice. It possesses also a mawkish, unpleasant taste, and is totally
unable to preserve the life of any aquatic animal. The presence of this minute
quantity of air in ordinary water, is very essential to its utility. Faraday
found that water, 
 totally  destitute of air, does not boil in the usual
mode, but when heated to the boiling point, it at once, with an instantaneous
and violent explosion, passes into the form of steam. This strange fact, which
shows upon what small, and, apparently, trivial circumstances, the
comfort--nay, we may truly say--the existence of man depends, is strikingly
shown by a very ingenious experiment, devised by that celebrated chemist. He
took a piece of Wenham Lake ice, (which, from peculiar local causes, such as
being formed from spring water, is totally destitute of air,) and melted it
under a covering of sweet oil; this prevented the absorption of any air during
the liquefaction; on continuing the heat, the water rose in temperature, and on
reaching the boiling point, suddenly burst into steam, with an explosive power
sufficiently great to scatter the glass vessel in which the experiment was made
into fragments; and had it not been for a protecting covering of wire gauze,
very serious effects might have ensued. 
 From the precipitation of the dissolved chalk present in most kinds of
water, a cloudiness or slight turbidity is always to be observed in boiled
water. 
 After the escape of the air, bubbles of steam, at first very small in size,
are formed at the bottom of the vessel, those formed at first are at once
cooled from the whole water not being of an equal temperature, and are
condensed before they reach the surface: this very rapid and successive
condensation of numerous small bubbles gives rise to that peculiar vibration
which occasions what is termed the 
 singing  of the teakettle, and which, as is well
known, is indicative of its approach to the boiling point; when the whole water
is uniformly heated, this effect no longer occurs, but the bubbles of steam
rise to the surface and escape. After having been heated to 212°, the
temperature of water no longer rises; it is not possible, under ordinary
circumstances, to increase the temperature in the slightest degree; for all the
extra heat that is given to boiling water merely produces increased quantity of
steam, by which it is carried off, without affecting the heat of the remaining
water. This is a matter of considerable practical importance in cookery; and it
should be always borne in mind, that the most gentle simmer is as efficacious
in cooking as the most violent boiling;  for the
degree of heat in both cases is precisely the same, so that after having once
raised the water to the boiling point, the most moderate fire is sufficient in
ordinary cases to keep it there; by attention to this point, a most enormous
saving may often be effected in the consumption of fuel, although this is a
consideration that will be more fully entered into in a subsequent chapter. 
 Thick liquids, which do not readily permit the escape of steam or the rapid
motion between the particles of fluid, may, however, be readily heated at the
part exposed to the fire to a much higher degree, while those portions not
immediately in contact with the heat are much colder; from this cause they are
very apt to be charred, and if articles of food, they are totally spoiled. To
avoid this effect, recourse may be had to the 
 bain marie,  which is simply the same contrivance
that may be observed in a carpenter's glue-pot, applied to the preparation of
articles of food,--being merely an inner vessel to contain the substance to be
heated; this is placed in an outer one, the space between the two containing
water. On placing this contrivance on the fire, it is obvious that the
substance in the inner vessel being heated solely by the boiling water, cannot
possibly become burnt. This most useful contrivance is adopted in all
first-class kitchens, and is equally indispensable in the chemist's laboratory;
by its aid, soups, gravies, &c., can be kept hot any length of time without
risk, preserves made without burning, &c. The chief precautions required in
its use are, that the inner vessel should be thin and formed of metal, so as to
allow the rapid transmission of heat from boiling water, and care should be
taken that the outer vessel does not boil dry. One serious disadvantage attends
its use as ordinarily employed: it is, that it is impossible to heat substances
in it to the boiling point, for the water itself is only at that temperature
and the substance in the inner vessel is always a few degrees below. This evil,
however, may be entirely obviated, by using a solution in the outer vessel,
which boils at a higher temperature than 212°, and which will therefore
raise the inner vessel and its contents to that point; thus, if the water be
made to dissolve as much common salt as it is capable of doing, it will not
boil until it is heated to 224°; or if it is saturated with sal-ammoniac or
nitre, the heat will rise 12° or 14° higher. We need scarcely say that
the first of these substances will be found a very useful and economical
addition to the 
 bain marie.  When chemists require a still higher
temperature, they have recourse to a bath of olive oil, which is capable of
bearing a degree of heat as high as 500°; but its extreme danger over an
open fire entirely precludes its use in any culinary operation. 
 The mode of conducting the operation of boiling should not be uniform, but
vary with the different purposes required. Thus, in the case of meat, a
temperature of 212° hardens, instead of softening, two of the substances
which it contains; namely, the fibrine, or material forming the chief part of
the muscular fibre, and the albumen, or portion which is analogous to white of
egg; if, on the contrary, meat is cooked by means of water at a lower
temperature, the most nutritious parts are dissolved out, and the solid food
left comparatively innutritious. The celebrated German chemist, Liebig,
proposes the following plan:--he recommends that a piece of meat of
considerable size should be taken and plunged into perfectly boiling water,
over a good fire; that the water should be kept boiling for a few minutes, and
then a portion of cold water, equal in quantity to about one-half of the
boiling water, should be thrown in: this will reduce the temperature to about
160°, at which point the meat  should be kept
until thoroughly done; which, however, takes a much longer time than the
ordinary mode. 
 The object of this mode of proceeding is, in the first instance, to harden
the exterior of the meat, converting it into a sort of crust, which prevents
the escape of the nutritious juices into the water, while the long continuance
of the gentle heat afterwards cooks the interior without hardening either the
albumen or the fibrine. Of course, where the object of boiling is to make soup,
the opposite plan must be had recourse to; the meat should be in small instead
of large pieces, put on in cold water and very slowly heated, so that all the
soluble parts may be dissolved before the fibre is hardened by the action of
boiling water. 
 In boiling eggs, the effect of heat in hardening the albumen is well known;
by being suddenly plunged into boiling water, the outside is hardened to the
greatest degree of which it is capable, and is thereby rendered exceedingly
difficult of digestion, while the inside is barely warmed; if, on the contrary,
they are placed in cold water, which is then raised to the boiling point,
removed from the fire, and allowed to stand about a minute (or two, if required
to be well done,) it will be found that, instead of having an almost leathery
consistence, the white will be uniformly partially hardened, and will furnish a
much more pleasant and digestible article of diet; the improvement, in fact, is
so great, that common eggs cooked in this manner very nearly approach new laid
ones in quality. 
 If the operation of boiling has to be performed on any substance containing
starchy matters--as potatoes, rice, flour, &c., then the heat must, on the
contrary, be raised to a sufficient degree to burst the little grains of which
the starch consists, and liberate the interior nutritious portions,
before it can become fit food for man; uncooked starch not being readily
or easily digested. And even in the case of those vegetable-feeding animals
whose power of digesting such substances surpasses that of man, there is the
greatest advantage to be derived from the use of cooked food, as the most
intelligent and scientific farmers at the present day well know; and we would
strongly urge on those of our readers who keep pigs to try the
experiment of baking the potatoes they give them; for this process, like
boiling, has the effect of bursting the starch grains; they will find
the effect to be, that the food will go much further, all of it being digested,
and that the quality of the flesh will be very materially improved. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. ECONOMY OF
HEAT. 
 PERHAPS few of our readers are aware of the extraordinary wastefulness of
our usual processes for obtaining artificial heat; at the most moderate
computation, seven-eighths of the warmth produced by an open fire, pass up the
chimney, and are entirely useless; and according to other estimates, which we
regard as being nearer the truth, fourteen parts out of every fifteen are
uselessly wasted. It may be asked what are the defects of a common fireplace
that render it so wasteful, and in what way is the heat carried off? In reply
it may be stated, that one half the heat produced passes away with the smoke
and heated air arising from the fire, a quarter is carried up by the draught of
cold air from the room, which, flowing around the fire and between it and the
mantel-piece, rises with the smoke. Again, the soot which passes away is
unburned fuel, and is therefore useless; and a large portion of  heat is thrown downwards upon the ashes and is wasted; while
the iron of which the ranges are generally made, conveys away a considerable
quantity. On the continent of Europe the production of heat is more
economically managed--stoves of very admirable construction being constantly
had recourse to, both for the purpose of producing warmth and for cookery. It
is to the latter application of heat that we must mainly confine ourselves,
having been at some considerable pains in examining the various stoves and
ranges now to be obtained. 
 The cooking-stove common in Europe, consists of an enclosed fire-pan, with a
grating below and a lid at the top for the supply of fuel; this is enclosed in
an oven, supported on the floor of the room by feet, and which is heated by the
warmth thrown out by the sides of the fire-pan, and also by a flue spreading
over the top, which is thus heated; while the upper surface of the flue forms a
hot plate, on which many saucepans, &c., can be kept boiling, and any
vessel can also be placed over the fire by the removal of the lid. As the
draught is under perfect control, the fuel is slowly consumed, and the stove
affords means of baking, boiling, frying, and stewing, at a very small
expense. 
 Those of our readers who visited Prince Albert's Model Cottages opposite the
Exhibition in London, may have noticed a stove looking very much like a long
oblong box, standing on four legs, having two doors in the front, one opening
into a large sized oven, the other disclosing the fire-grate, which was fed by
the removal of a lid at the top;--the draught from the fire passed over the
oven, heating it, and the hot plate above. This stove combines all the
advantages of the continental cooking-stove, with the cheerful appearance of an
open fire; at the same time, by closing up the fire-place door, it is converted
into a close stove with an excessively small consumption of fuel. It bakes
admirably, either large joints, or bread, at the same time it boils a saucepan
and steamer over the fire-hole, and also four large, or six smaller saucepans
on the top of the hot plate. It fries well, and broils before the fire, and
this with less than one half the fuel that was employed to do a portion of the
work in the range. The 
 Bain Marie,  which is so excellent a means of keeping
soups, gravies, sauces, &c., hot without burning or drying them up, is
readily used with it; and the 
 sauté  pan or deep frying-pan, which is
employed as a preliminary operation in most French made dishes, is conveniently
used; this contrivance derives its name from the verb 
 sauter,  to jump--the meat being rapidly turned over
and browned previous to stewing. The only disadvantage attending the use of
this stove is, that it is not calculated for roasting, but every other
operation in cooking it performs infinitely better than a common fire. This
stove, which is termed the Cottager's Stove, is made by Messrs. Benham, Wigmore
Street, London. 
 
 Cottager's Stove. 
 An illustration of a rectangular steel box sitting on four
decorative legs. The box has a chimney coming out of the top, back left corner,
two small doors on the front and one round lid on the top front, right
corner. 
 
 Those who object to a stove, preferring a range, even at a greater sacrifice
of economy, should still be somewhat guided by correct principles in their
selection;  a range surrounded by iron is an
absurdity, as the metal conducts away the heat rapidly; it should be backed and
lined with fire-brick, or Welsh lumps, which throw out the heat with great
power. In an open fire-place, the active combustion is wanted in front for
roasting, and there only should air enter the fire; in most ranges the air
enters below, causing the greatest heat to be thrown upon the ashes. It
may be thought that closing up the bottom would produce the same effect as
allowing it to be choked up with ashes in a common grate, deadening the
fire; this is not the case with a properly constructed range. Backed with a
slanting back of fire clay, the ashes can be readily removed at
the bottom, and all the draught being in front, there is a bright fire at the
place where it is required. 
 In situations where gas is to be obtained, it forms a ready, and for some
purposes, very economical means of obtaining heat; its economy does not arise
from its cheapness compared with other means, but from the fact that it need
not be lighted till the instant it is required, and can be as quickly
extinguished when it has done its required duty; for heating any vessels
containing liquids, especially if the heat is required to be only of short
continuance, gas will be found extremely advantageous. A ring burner,
constructed as shown in 
 Fig. 2,  less than three inches in diameter,
will quickly boil a gallon of water in a metallic vessel; burners of
this description are usually used in the laboratory, surrounded by a case made
of sheet iron or tinned plate, as in 
 Fig. 3;  this serves to support the vessel to
be heated, to steady the jets of flame, and to conduct every portion of hot air
against the bottom; the door also gives a ready access to the burner for the
purposes of lighting the gas. 
 
 
 Fig. 2.  
 An illustration of a ring burner. A device that looks like a
goblet with a tube coming out of it. 
 
 For the domestic use of gas in heating we believe there is no contrivance so
useful as the following:--A circular hole, from two to four or more inches in
diameter, is cut in the dresser, through which is passed a sheet-iron tube,
supported by three little elbows; this tube projects a few inches above the
table, and about a foot and a half below; its lower end is open, and
into it projects a gas-pipe, furnished with a stop-cock; the upper extremity is
covered with a sheet of wire gauze, similar to that used for blinds, on which,
as shown in 
 Fig. 4,  may be placed some pieces of
pumice-stone, surrounded and kept together by a broad ring;--neither the
pumice-stone nor the ring, however, are essential parts of the contrivance. The
action of this arrangement is as follows:--When the gas is turned on it escapes
from the pipe, rising through the tube, and mixing with the air contained
within it; this mixture then escapes through the wire gauze, and may be lighted
on its upper side, without passing
 
 
 Fig. 3.  
 An illustration of cylinder of metal with perforation at the top
edge and a little rectangular door in the middle. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 4.  
 An illustration of a gas heating device for domestic
use. 
   through it to the gas below; the
flame should be perfectly free from smoke, which indicates too much gas--should
be pale, colorless, and not soil any bright metal placed in it; if the flame is
in the slightest degree yellow it will do this, and then the gas should be
partly turned off--on the contrary, if there is not enough gas, the flame will
be extinguished. When lighted, the pumice becomes red-hot and throws out a
great heat; when used in boiling, the vessel should be supported a short
distance over the flame by a trivet; if it is made to rest on the top of the
ring, and is sufficiently large to close it entirely, the current is stopped
and the flame extinguished, whilst the unburned gas still escapes below. This
contrivance is most useful; it is lighted in an instant, is perfectly free from
smoke, no unburned gas escapes, it throws out great heat, and may be employed
to heat bright tools with much more convenience than a charcoal fire.
The objections to its use are, that in burning it produces, as all gas does, a
quantity of carbonic acid gas, deteriorating the air, and that the flame cannot
be very much enlarged or diminished, so that if fires of different power are
required, two or more of the contrivances must be put in order. Otherwise, the
instantaneous action, small cost, great heating power, and cleanliness of the
plan, strongly recommend it. In summer weather, in many small families, it can
be made to dispense altogether with the use of a fire. By a little variation,
the whole contrivance may be made to stand on the table, like 
 Fig. 2;  in this and other cases, vulcanized
India-rubber will be found to form by far the best kind of flexible tube, being
quite impervious, very durable, and excessively pliant. Those who wish to try
the experiment of heating on this plan, may readily do so by covering the top
of the glass chimney of any common burner with a piece of wire gauze, folding
it over the sides; the gas may then be turned on, and lighted above the gauze,
after it has mingled with the air in the chimney: a small burner, however, does
not afford sufficient gas for the purpose, and there is consequently too much
air, and the flame is weak and liable to go out. 
 We cannot conclude this chapter without entering our most earnest protest
against 
 all  those injurious contrivances for burning
charcoal without a flue. The use of charcoal-braziers in a large
kitchen is not to be recommended, but a charcoal stove in a
dwelling-room is most objectionable. Charcoal, in burning, produces
carbonic acid gas, an invisible and therefore insidious poison, which is so
deadly in its effects, that if the air of a room contains but one-tenth of its
bulk, the breathing of it for any time is fatal. Every pound of
charcoal, in burning, produces more than three pounds and a half of this
deadly gas. 
 In Paris, in the years 1834 and 1835, there were 360 cases resulting from
the fumes of charcoal, of which more than 260 were fatal. In order to
test the effects of these stoves, Mr. Coathupe, of Wraxall, shut himself up in
a close room containing eighty cubic yards of air, with one of them in action.
In four hours he was seized with giddiness, which, in an hour's time, became
most intense; he then had the desire to vomit, but not the power; this was
followed by an utter loss of strength, throbbing at the temples, and agonizing
headache, but no sense of suffocation; finding that the experiment was becoming
dangerous, he essayed to open the window, but had the greatest difficulty in so
doing; and when his wife came into the room, he was found in a speechless
state, in which he remained for some time. 
 In a fatal case, which happened in St.  John's
Wood, where two girls were killed by the use of these stoves, it was found,
that the quantity of carbonic acid produced was capable of rendering poisonous
the air of a room ten times the size of the one in which it was used. Men who,
knowing the poisonous effects of these stoves, still sell them, recommending
them as wholesome, with the deliberate assertion that their prepared fuel,
which is merely charcoal disguised, is not deleterious, evince a much
more lively interest in the state of their own pockets, than in the lives of
their customers. 
 Let it not be imagined that the case of Mr. Coathupe is but a solitary one;
the action of burning charcoal is of the same deleterious nature on all
persons. In January 1836, seventy people suffered the same symptoms, though in
a milder degree, in the church at Downham, in Norfolk, England, where two of
these dangerous contrivances had been introduced: and in the 
 Annales d'Hygéine,  tom. xi., will be found an
account of the suicides in the department of the Seine in ten years; these were
4595 in number, of which 1426 deaths were produced by burning charcoal.
We would again recommend our readers under no circumstances, however much they
may be recommended by false assertions, to admit stoves without flues into
their houses. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. CLEANING AND
DISINFECTING. 
 WE have elsewhere given directions as to the best mode of cleaning various
articles, such as bottles, glass, &c. What remains, therefore, under this
head, is to furnish hints for cleaning miscellaneous articles, which have not
been included under previous accounts; and the very important process of
disinfecting, which may be regarded as a medical cleaning, falls, naturally,
into the same chapter. As the substances to be submitted to the process of
cleaning vary greatly from one another, we shall find it more convenient to
throw our remarks into the form of miscellaneous hints, than to arrange them in
a chapter for consecutive reading. 
 
 Iron-work  which is exposed to wet, rusts rapidly; it
is usually preserved from the action of moisture either by covering it with two
or three coatings of paint, as is customary in large out-door works, or by
brushing it over with a varnish termed Brunswick black; this plan is usually
followed in the case of smaller substances used in-doors. A very superior plan
for protecting small iron goods from the injurious action of wet, is to heat
them a little below redness, and whilst hot to brush them over with common
linseed oil, which is decomposed by the heat, and forms a thin, very firm
coating of varnish, which is quite impervious to water, and unlike paint or
Japan-black, does not chip off. It is evident that this plan can only be
adopted in few cases, but where it is available we very strongly recommend
it. 
 
 Floor Boarding  and other wood work is exceedingly
apt to be stained by various substances split upon it. Ink stains, for
instance, are extremely obstinate; they withstand washing many times, and at
last turn to a rusty iron color, from the application of the alkali of the
soap. But the black stain of recent ink and the rusty iron-mould may be removed
by the action of oxalic or muriatic acid. As wood is not likely to be injured
like cloth or linen, the latter may be used, being the cheaper, and it should
be diluted with two or three times its bulk of water, and applied until the
stain is removed. Grease which has been trodden 
in, or has remained a long time, should be first softened by the application of
a little turpentine, and then it will be found to yield much more readily than
it otherwise would to the action of fuller's earth and pearlash or soda. Fruit
stains are quickly removed by the action of a little chloride of lime, mixed
with water, and applied until the desired effect is produced. It should be
borne in mind that all vegetable colors are utterly destroyed beyond any
restoration, by the energetic action of this agent. 
 
 Paint,  when soiled, is readily cleaned by soap and
water; soda and pearlash are frequently employed, but they act by removing a
portion of the paint, and if not thoroughly washed off with clean water
afterwards, they will be found to soften the whole. Caustic alkalies, such as
the solution for washing on the new plan, will rapidly dissolve paint, and are
therefore inapplicable for cleaning; they may, however, be usefully employed in
removing paint from wood, where such an operation is requisite. 
 
 Plate  may be cleaned by rouge, or if this is not
readily obtained, by washed whiting; this is readily made by stirring some
whiting up with water, then allowing the larger particles and the grit to
subside, and pouring off the water charged with the finer powder, which is
allowed to settle, and dried for use. When plate is very much stained, it may
be cleaned with putty powder, but this preparation would soon wear away the
silver if used frequently or unnecessarily. It may be mentioned, that this
substance is not made from putty, as its name might seem to imply, but is a
rust or oxide of tin, obtained by heating the metal. 
 
 Japanned Goods,  such as tea-boards, should not have
boiling water poured upon them, but should be washed with warm water, and
polished with a piece of wash-leather and fine flour. 
 
 Knives --The common wooden knife-board wears out the
knives very rapidly, it is therefore much better to employ a piece of
buff-leather to cover the board; for very superior cutlery emery powder should
be used instead of Bath-brick. Whatever the material of the board, it will be
rapidly spoiled by cleaning the backs of knives upon the edge of the board; to
prevent this evil, a small piece of leather should be fixed on one end to clean
the backs upon. 
 
 Steel Forks  are readily cleaned by having a pot of
damp moss or hay, with some sand intermixed, into which they may be repeatedly
thrust. If knives or forks get an unpleasant taint which cannot be removed
readily, they may be plunged into the mould of the garden, which has much
absorptive power, and rapidly removes such odors. 
 
 Bedsteads  may be freed from vermin by brushing them
over in the cracks with a mixture formed of one ounce of corrosive sublimate,
dissolved in half a pint of oil of turpentine, and the same quantity of any
spirit, such as strong gin or whiskey; this effectually prevents their
harboring. But when first applied, it has a disagreeable odor from the
turpentine, and great care must be taken with it, as it is excessively
poisonous. It has been found that the presence of the odor of creosote has
effectually driven away these enemies to our nocturnal peace. On the whole,
constant and unremitting cleanliness, and the employment of iron bedsteads,
which are now manufactured of the most elegant forms, are the best means of
getting rid of these pests. 
 We pass on to the important operations of disinfecting. Various means have
been proposed of lessening or utterly destroying the infectious emanations that
proceed from persons in certain diseases, and which frequently have the power
of attaching themselves with greater or less tenacity to articles of wearing  apparel, furniture, &c. Generally speaking, a
good system of ventilation is sufficient to prevent infection. When rooms are
properly aired, a disease can seldom be caught more than a few feet from the
patient; or even in the case of those most infectious disorders, scarlet-fever,
and small-pox, it seldom spreads more than a few yards; but if the air of a
room is confined, the infection is concentrated, and becomes much more certain
in its action. 
 Downy and fibrous materials readily receive infection; it may, in fact, in
many instances, be folded up in them, and so retained almost any length of
time; but if they are throroughly exposed to a free current of air, it is
dissipated in a short time. It should be mentioned, that infectious diseases
are more readily received in certain states of the body; thus, fear, timidity,
mental anxiety, and such states of mind, by lowering the general tone of the
system, render it much more liable to contract infectious or contagious
diseases; a state of exhaustion from bodily fatigue, or from hunger, has the
same tendency. Infection is also more readily received through the lungs than
through the skin; therefore, it is important never to receive the breath of a
patient, and, as a sailor would say, always to keep to the windward side of
him. Amongst the domestic disinfectants, vinegar has a great reputation, but
undeservedly so; its only action is to overpower, by its odor, the smell of a
sick room--as a destroyer of the peculiar influences that engender disease, it
has no power. Burning substances act in the same manner. Burnt brown paper,
fumigating pastiles, tobacco, only act by substituting one smell for another.
The ridiculous practice of carrying about a piece of camphor is very common,
and is perfectly inefficacious. If it has any action at all, it must be an
injurious one; for camphor is a stimulant, and its constant inhalation must
tend to lower the system, and so produce the very evil it is supposed to
remedy. 
 The best means of preventing infection, are ventilation and cleanliness in
every particular. The best means of destroying it are those powerful chemical
agents which have the power of uniting with the hydrogen which is supposed to
form part of the infectious substances. 
 The most powerful, easily controlled, and in every sense the best
disinfectant, is chlorine gas. This agent at once destroys every trace of
infection in all substances submitted to its action. Its formation is perfectly
under control, and goes on in a gentle manner for days together, without
requiring care or attendance. We consider that the slow liberation of chlorine
is far superior to the employment of chloride of lime, which gives forth the
gas in a modified form. 
 In one case of a school where scarlet-fever had returned after several
attempts at purification, chlorine effected the complete removal of every trace
of the disease. Various modes of liberating chlorine are known to chemists;
but, for such purposes as the present, where a slow, uniform, and constant
action is required, there are none equal to the following plan:--One pound of
common table-salt is to be intimately mixed by stirring with an equal weight of
a substance called manganese, which may be readily obtained from any good
chemist. Small portions of this mixture should be placed in shallow pans (the
saucers of common flower-pots answer the purpose); and upon them should be
poured a mixture of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) and water, the quantity
required for the above weights, viz., for one pound of each ingredient, being
two pounds of oil of vitriol and one of water, both by weight. These should
have been previously mixed in a wooden vessel, being stirred by a wooden lath,
and allowed to become cool before being poured on the salt and manganese,  as the mixing of the acid and water generates great
heat. Too much care cannot be taken with the acid, as it is excessively
corrosive in its nature, and destroys most substances with which it comes in
contact. When these materials are all mixed, chlorine is slowly evolved for a
period of three or four days, and in so gentle a manner that not the slightest
irritating or unpleasant effect is produced. If it is wished to cause the more
rapid production of gas, the saucer may be placed over a basin of boiling
water, or upon a hot brick; but the slow generation for a considerable
length of time is what should be more especially aimed at. It is needless to
say, that all substances supposed to have been contaminated, should be spread
out so as to receive the influence of the gas; the bed-linen, and all woollen
garments, being exposed by being spread out on chairs, lines, &c.; the
drawers and cupboards opened; and while the disinfecting is in actual
operation, the windows and doors should be kept shut, to prevent the
dissipation of the chlorine. It is found that two ounces of manganese, with a
proportionate quantity of the other materials, is sufficient for a room twenty
feet wide, forty feet long, and twelve feet high, which
contains 20X40X12=9600 cubic feet. 
 It may be mentioned, that breathing chlorine in this highly diluted state,
is not injurious to the general health; although, in a concentrated form, or
unless very much diluted with air, it is irritating in the highest degree. In
the very dilute state, it is occasionally prescribed for the inhalation of
consumptive patients. 
 For the satisfaction of those who rely on the authority of a great name, it
may be stated, that chlorine used in the manner here recommended, was employed
by one of the most illustrious of English chemists, in the case of the
Penitentiary, when a violent and fatal disease broke out there, and with
complete success. The operator in this case was FARADAY. 
 It may occasionally be found more convenient to use another mixture for the
liberation of chlorine gas, in which case the following may be employed:--One
part of manganese is to be drenched with four parts by weight of muriatic
acid (spirits of salts), mixed with one part of water. The
gas is evolved slowly in the cold, and rapidly if assisted by a gentle heat.
This process is rather more expensive, and possesses no advantage over the one
previously described. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XX. FERMENTING AND
DISTILLING. 
 IN ordinary language, the term fermentation is employed to signify the
peculiar changes which take place when a solution of sugar, or any vegetable
substance containing saccharine matter, is converted into spirit--this,
however, is only one of many of such kinds of action, which are well known to
chemists. The most important fermentations are the saccharine fermentation,
when sugar is formed by a change taking place in starch; the vinous, when
spirit is formed from sugar; and the acetous, in which vinegar or acetic acid
is formed from spirit. 
 The saccharine fermentation, or the formation of sugar from starch, is
interesting, though it does not influence such operations as are included in
our Domestic Manipulations. If starch is dissolved in water, a little wheat
flour added and the whole exposed to a moderately warm temperature, it will be
found that after a few days, varying in number with the degree of warmth, the
starch has disappeared, and the liquid has become sweet from the formation of
sugar. The same change takes place with much greater  rapidity if starch is boiled with a solution of malt, which
contains an active principle called 
 diastase,  capable of bringing about this
fermentation in a short time. The formation of sugar from starch is an
operation which constantly occurs in all growing seeds, the effect being to
change an insoluble substance, such as starch, into one which is capable of
being dissolved in the juices of the young plant, and nourishing it during the
early stages of its growth. In the operation of malting barley, the change is
induced artificially, for the purpose of producing sugar in the malt, which is
afterwards made to undergo the second kind of fermentation, namely, the vinous,
or that in which spirit is produced. 
 When sugar, either that which naturally exists, in many plants, or as formed
from starch as just mentioned, is dissolved in water, so as to form a
moderately weak solution, and the whole exposed to a degree of warmth varying
from seventy to eighty degrees, it rapidly undergoes a remarkable change,
provided a small quantity of any vegetable ferment is present--such as yeast,
or the juice of the grape, or of many other fruits. The sugar wholly
disappears, and is resolved into two substances--one a gas, termed carbonic
acid, which escapes, giving rise to a slow effervescence; and the other, a
portion of spirit, which remains in the liquid. This kind of fermentation is
much more difficult to prevent than to establish; in making syrups, it is found
especially annoying; for if the quantity of sugar used is too small, the syrup
is certain to ferment and spoil; and if to much is added, it crystallizes out
in the solid form; as a general rule, however, it is found that two parts, by
weight, of sugar, to one part, by weight, of water, or other liquid--such as
the juice of fruits, made into a syrup by boiling for a short time--neither
ferments nor crystallizes. 
 In the act of fermentation the spirit produced by the process last described
is changed into acetic acid, or vinegar. Here, also, the presence of some
substance capable of commencing the fermentation is requisite, for pure spirit
and water will not undergo the change. The ferment employed may be the
vinegar-plant--or it may be a little vinegar, which may have been previously
formed. 
 For the rapid progress of the acetous fermentation, a high temperature is
requisite--even as great as about eighty-six degrees--and free exposure to air
is essential. The best vinegar is that made from weak wine, at Orleans; the
plan followed is to introduce a portion of vinegar into the vessels, adding the
wine at intervals, and never quite emptying them. In this country, a weak beer
is brewed, without hops, for the purpose of making vinegar, and a small
quantity of dilute oil of vitriol is added, after the vinegar is formed, to
destroy the mouldiness that is otherwise apt to be present. Vinegar may be
formed from any weak spirituous liquid; but it should be borne in mind that two
circumstances are essential to success--namely, a high summer temperature,
either natural or artificial, and free exposure to air. 
 The process of distillation is one which is used for separating liquids from
each other that boil at different degrees of heat. In domestic economy, it is
most frequently employed to obtain spirit, more or less flavored, or scented,
with some volatile essential oil. The apparatus commonly used is the Still, for
boiling the liquid to generate the vapor, and a long spirally twisted tube
termed the worm, which is placed in a tub of cold water, and through which the
steam passes to be condensed. The worm is the most objectionable part of the
modern still; its great evil is the difficulty with which it is cleaned, so as
to prevent one strong-flavored substance spoiling 
those which are distilled afterwards. If the coils of the worm are not very
numerous, a bullet, with a string attached, may be passed through it, and a
sponge or small bottle-brush, fastened to the string, may be worked backwards
and forwards; but if there are several coils, it will be found impossible to do
this, from the resistance caused by friction. In this case, the only plan is to
close one end of the worm with a cork, and fill it with a solution of caustic
alkali, allowing it to remain for some hours, and repeating the application
with fresh liquid, if it be required. 
 
 
 Fig. 1  
 An illustration of a still. 
 
 In Germany, the worm is being superseded by an excellent condenser, which is
so superior that we are induced to give a sketch of it, hoping that it may
lead to its adoption in this country. The vapors from the still pass
into the tube A 
 (Fig 1),  by which they are conducted into B,
a hollow globe, made to unscrew at its centre. The vapors, passing along the
tubes C, are condensed, and the distilled liquid drops from D. The pipe E
should convey a constant stream of cold water to the bottom of the tub,
and this, rising as it is warmed by abstracting heat from the tubes and globe,
should escape by F. All the tubes being straight, it is obvious that they can
be readily cleaned from their ends. 
 In the laboratory, distilling is most frequently performed with vessels
termed retorts, or even from flasks; but as these are not very applicable to
domestic purposes, we pass them over. 
 In domestic practice, the still is usually employed to obtain some
water or spirit flavored with essential oil, or the
oil itself, and the process should be slightly modified so as to suit
each case. The vegetable substance should not be placed on the bottom of the
still itself, as in that case it might become burnt, and so give an unpleasant
flavor to the whole; but a bottom of wicker-work should be placed in the still
in the first instance for it to rest upon, or a perforated board. The substance
to be distilled should be placed in the still, covered with water, for
some hours before the fire is lighted; no more water being added than
sufficient to cover it, if the preparation of oil is the object. 
 Herbs, for distilling, should be collected on a dry day, and--unless
the oil resides in the seeds, as in the case of caraway,
anise, &c., or in the flowers, as in the rose, lavender,
&c.--just before the flowers have opened, as at that period there is the
greatest quantity of essential oil in the plant. All plants cultivated
for distillation, should be grown in a situation where they can receive a full
amount of sun-light, as shade or darkness very much tends to prevent the
formation of essential oil. 
 The liquid which comes out of the worm, is a mixture of water highly
flavored with the substance, and some undissolved oil--this latter is
sometimes heavier and sometimes lighter than water, either sinking or
floating; in the latter case the oil may be readily separated by filling
a bottle with the mixture, and when the oil has collected at the top,
carrying it off by a few threads of cotton placed as in the figure 
 (Fig. 2) 
 
 
 Fig. 2  
 An illustration of a bottle with liquid in it and cotton threads
coming out of it to form a syphon. 
   taking care that they are
moistened with oil before arranging them; the cotton acts as a syphon,
and removes the whole of the oil. If the object of the operation is to
obtain the oil and not the distilled water, the latter should be
preserved, and used again and again with fresh herbs, because having in
the first operation dissolved as much oil as it is capable of doing, it
causes no loss in the subsequent distillations. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. LAYING OUT TABLES
AND FOLDING NAPKINS. 
 THE art of laying out a table, whether for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, tea
or supper, consists in arranging the various dishes, plate, glass, &c.,
methodically, and adhering to the rules we are about to make known. 
 Much trouble, irregularity, and confusion will be avoided in a house when
there is company, if servants are instructed to prepare the table, sideboard,
or dinner-wagon, in a similar manner and order daily. 
 All tables are usually laid out according to the following rules, yet there
are local peculiarities which will necessarily present themselves, and should
be adopted or rejected, as may appear proper to the good housewife:-- 
 BREAKFASTS.--The table should be covered with a clean white cloth; the cups
and saucers arranged at one end, on a tray if desirable; or the coffee-cups and
saucers may be arranged at the right-hand side of one end of the table, and the
tea-cups and saucers at the left: the tea-pot and coffee-pot occupying the
space between in front, and the urn that at the back. Some persons substitute
cocoa or chocolate for coffee, in which case they are to be placed the same.
The slop-basin and milk-pitcher should be placed to the left; and the cream,
and hot milk-pitchers, with the sugar basin, to the right. 
 The remainder of the table should be occupied in the centre by the various
dishes to be partaken of; while at the sides must be ranged a large plate for
meat, eggs, &c., and a small one for toast, rolls, &c., with a small
knife and fork for each person; the carving knife and fork being placed point
to handle; the butter and bread knives to the right of their respective dishes,
which occupy the centre part, and spoons in front of the hot dishes with gravy.
Salt-cellars should occupy the four corners, and, if required, the cruets
should be placed in the centre of the table. 
 Dry toast should never be prepared longer than five minutes before serving,
as it becomes tough, and the buttered, soppy and greasy, if too long prepared.
Hot rolls should be brought to table covered with a napkin. 
 Every dish should be garnished appropriately, either with sippets,
ornamental butter, water-cresses, parsley, or some one of the garnishes we
shall point out in a future page. 
 The dishes usually set upon the table are selected from hot, cold, and cured
meats; hot, cold, cured, and potted fish; game; poultry, cold or devilled;
fruit, ripe, preserved, or candied; dressed and undressed vegetables; meat-pies
and patties, cold; eggs; honey-comb; and savory morsels--as grilled kidneys,
ham-toast, devils, &c. 
 
 Déjeuners à la fourchette  are laid the
same as suppers, except that tea and coffee are introduced; but in sporting
circles not until the solids are removed. 
 When laid for a marriage or christening breakfast, a bride's or christening
cake  should occupy the centre instead of the
épergne or plateau. 
 LUNCHEONS, OR NOONINGS.--The luncheon is laid in two ways; one way is to
bring in a butler's tray with let-down sides, on which it is previously
arranged upon a tray cloth, and letting down the sides and spreading the cloth
upon the dining table, to distribute the things as required. The other is to
lay the cloth as for dinner with the pickle-stand and cruets opposite each
other; and, if in season, a small vase of flowers in the centre; if not, a
water-pitcher and tumblers, which may be placed on a side-table at other times.
The sides of the table are occupied by the requisites for each guest, viz., two
plates, a large and small fork and knives, and dessert-spoon. A folded napkin,
and the bread under, is placed upon the plate of each guest. 
 Carafes, with the tumblers belonging to and placed over them, are laid at
the four corners, with the salt-cellars in front of them, between two
table-spoons laid bowl to handle. 
 If French or light wines are served, they may be placed in the original
bottles in ornamental wine vases, between the top and bottom dishes and the
vase of flowers, with the corks drawn and partially replaced. 
 The dishes generally served for luncheons are the remains of cold meat
neatly trimmed and garnished: cold game hashed or plain; hashes of all
descriptions; curries; minced meats; cold pies, savory, fruit, or plain;
plainly cooked cutlets, steaks, and chops; omelettes; bacon; eggs; devils and
grilled bones; potatoes; sweetmeats; butter; cheese; salad and pickles. In fact
almost anything does for lunch, whether of fish, flesh, fowl, pastry,
vegetables, or fruit. 
 Ale and porter are generally served, but occasionally sherry, marsalla,
port, or home-made wines, are introduced, with biscuit and ripe fruit. 
 A good housewife should always have something in the house ready to convert
into a neat little luncheon, in case a few friends drop in, and it is
astonishing how a really nice looking affair may be made out of the remains of
the dinner served the day before: some glass, a sprinkle of plate, a few
flowers, some good ale, or a little wine, and above all, a hearty welcome. 
 NAPKINS.--Dinner napkins should be about twenty-eight inches broad, and
thirty inches long. They may be folded in a variety of ways, which impart a
style to a table, without adding much to the expense, and may be readily
accomplished with a little practice and attention to the following directions
and diagrams. 
 
  1.--THE MITRE.--
 (Fig. 1.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
longways, then turn down the right-hand corner, and turn up the left-hand
one, as in Fig. 2, A and B. Turn back the point A towards the right, so
that it shall lie behind C; and B to the left, so as to be behind D. Double the
napkin back at the line E, then turn up F from before and G from behind, when
they will appear as in Fig. 3. Bend the corner H towards the right,
and tuck it behind I, and turn back the corner K towards the left, at the
dotted line, and tuck it into a corresponding part at the back. The
bread is placed under the mitre, or in the centre at the top. 
 
 
  2.--THE EXQUISITE.--
 (Fig. 4.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
long-ways, then fold down two-fifths of the length from each side, as in
Fig. 5, at A; roll up the part B towards the back, repeat on the other
side, then turn up the corner towards the corner A, and it will appear as
D. The centre part E is now  to be turned up at the
bottom, and down at the top, and the two rolls brought under the centre piece,
as in Fig. 4. The bread is placed under the centre band, K,
Fig. 4. 
 
 
  3.--THE COLLEGIAN.--
 (Fig. 6.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
long-ways, then turn down the two sides towards you, so that they shall appear
as in Fig. 7; then roll up the part A underneath until it looks like B,
Fig. 8. Now take the corner B and turn it up towards C, so that the
edge of the rolled part shall be even with the central line; repeat the same on
the other side, and turn the whole over, when it will appear as in Fig.
6. The bread is placed underneath the part K. 
 
 
  4.--THE CINDERELLA.--
 (Fig. 9.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
long-ways, then turn down the two sides as in Fig. 7; turn the napkin
over, and roll up the lower part as in Fig. 10, A, B. Now turn the
corner B upwards towards C, so that it shall appear as in D; repeat on the
other side, and then bring the two parts E together so that they shall bend at
the dotted line; and the appearance will now be as Fig. 9. The
bread is placed under the apron part, K, Fig. 9. 
 
 
  5.--THE FLIRT.--
 (Fig. 11.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
long-ways, then fold across the breadth, commencing at one extremity, and
continuing to fold from and to yourself in folds about two inches broad, until
the whole is done; then place in a tumbler, and it will appear as in the
illustration. 
 
 
  6.--THE NEAPOLITAN.--
 (Fig. 12.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
long-ways, then fold one of the upper parts upon itself from you; turn over the
cloth with the part having four folds from you, and fold down the two sides so
as to appear as in 
 Fig. 7;  then roll up the part A underneath,
until it appears as in the dotted lines in 
 Fig. 13,  at B. Now turn up the corner B
towards C, so that the edge of the rolled part shall be even with the central
line: repeat the same upon the opposite side, and turn the whole over, when it
will appear as in 
 Fig. 12:  the bread being placed
underneath the part K, as represented in the illustration. 
 
 
  7.--THE "FAVORITE," OR OUR OWN. 
 (Fig. 14.)  Fold the napkin into three parts
long-ways, then turn down the two edges as in 
 Fig. 7,  and roll up the part A on both sides,
until as represented on the right-hand side in 
 Fig. 14;  then turn it backwards (as A B) on
both sides; now fold down the point C towards you, turn over the napkin, and
fold the two other parts from you so that they shall appear as in 
 Fig. 15.  Turn the napkin over, thus folded,
and raising the centre part with the two thumbs, draw the two ends (A and B)
together, and pull out the parts (C and D) until they appear as in 
 Fig. 14.  The bread is to be placed as
represented in K, 
 Fig. 14.  
 
 DINNERS. 
 
 Dinners. --The appearance a dinner-table presents
does not depend so much upon a profuseness of viands, as upon the neatness,
cleanliness, and well-studied arrangement of the whole. Taste, if well
directed, may produce a handsome dinner; whereas three times the amount of
money may be expended upon another, and yet not make even a respectable
appearance. 
 We cannot too strongly urge the necessity of having things done in the same
manner every day as when there is company. The servants become accustomed 
 
 
 fig. 1  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
Mitre. 
 
 
 
 fig. 2  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Mitre. 
 
 
 
 fig. 3  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Mitre. 
 
 
 
 fig. 4  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
Exquisite. 
 
 
 
 fig. 5  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Exquisite. 
 
 
 
 fig. 6  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
Collegian. 
 
 
 
 fig. 7  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Collegian. 
 
 
 
 fig. 8  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Collegian. 
 
 
 
 fig. 9  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
Cinderella. 
 
 
 
 fig. 10  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Cinderella. 
 
 
 
 fig. 11  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
Flirt. 
 
 
 
 fig. 12  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
Neapolitan. 
 
 
 
 fig. 13  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into The
Neapolitan. 
 
 
 
 fig. 14  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin folded into a shape called The
"Favorite" or Our Own. 
 
 
 
 fig. 15  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into the shape of
The "Favorite or Our Own. 
 
 
 
 fig. 16  
 An illustration of a dinner napkin being folded into the shape of
The "Favorite or Our Own. 
   to waiting properly, things are
always at hand, and they do not appear awkward when visitors drop in; then
every thing is regular, and goes on smoothly. 
 
 An illustration of a dinner bell. 
 
 
 To Lay the Cloth. --The table should be well
polished, and then covered with a cloth, over which a fine white damask
one should be spread. If the white cloth is to be kept on after dinner,
it is customary to spread a small cloth at either end of the table where the
large dishes are placed, to protect the long cloth from accidental spots
arising from gravy, &c.; these slips are removed after dinner, and
the cloth cleaned with crumb-brushes. In some houses an entire upper cloth is
placed upon the table instead of slips, and this being removed after dinner,
does not require the tedious process of brushing the table-cloth. 
 When the cloth has been spread, place carafes, with the tumblers belonging
to and placed over them, between every four persons, a salt-cellar
between every third person, and a large and small knife, fork, and spoon, to
each guest, with two wine-glasses, a champagne-glass, and a tumbler, to
the right of each, and the bread placed in or under folded napkins
between the knives, forks, and spoons; and at large entertainments or public
dinners, the name of each guest neatly written on a card in front of the
napkin, so as to prevent confusion. The centre ornament, usually a 
 candelabrum, plateau,  an 
 épergne,  or a vase of artificial flowers,
must now be set on, and the mats for the various dishes arranged; then the
wine-coolers or ornamental vases placed between the centre piece and the
top and bottom dishes, with the wines in the original bottles, loosely corked;
the spoons for helping the various dishes, asparagus tongs, fish
knife and fork or slice, and carving knives and forks, are placed in front of
the respective dishes to which they belong; and knife-rests opposite to those
who have to carve; with a bill of fare, and a pile of soup-plates before those
that have to help the soup. 
 
 In arranging or laying out a table,  several things
require particular attention, and especially the following:-- 
 
 Plate  should be well cleaned, and have a bright
polish; few things look worse than to see a greasy-looking épergne and
streaky spoons. 
 Glass  should be well rubbed with a wash-leather,
dipped in a solution of fine whiting and stone-blue, and then dried;
afterwards it should be polished with an old silk handkerchief. 
 Plates  and 
 dishes  should be hot, otherwise the guests will be
disgusted by seeing flakes of fat floating about in the gravy. 
 Bread  should be cut in pieces about an inch
thick, and each round of a loaf into six parts, or if for a dinner party,
dinner rolls should be ordered. The bread is placed under the napkins,
or on the 
 left  of each guest, if dinner napkins are not used;
some of the bread being placed in a bread-tray covered with a
crochet cloth upon the sideboard. 
 Lights,  either at or after the dinner, should
be subdued, and above the guests, if possible, so as to be shed upon the table,
without intercepting the view. 
 Sauces,  either bottle, sweet, or boat--
 vegetables,  and sliced cucumber, or glazed  onions for stubble goose, should be
placed upon the sideboard; a 
 plate basket  for removing the soiled plates is
usually placed under the sideboard, or some other convenient part of the room;
and 
 two knife-trays,  covered with napkins, are placed
upon a butler's tray; these are used for removing soiled carvers and forks, and
the soiled silver. It is useful to have a large-sized brad-awl, a cork-screw,
and funnel, with strainer; the former to break the wire of the champagne
bottles, and the latter to strain port wine, if required to be opened
during dinner. 
 
 To lay out the sideboard or tray. --Little requires
to be done, except to arrange the silver, knives, cruets, and various dishes to
be placed there. The silver should be arranged on one end of the sideboard, as
in 
 Figs.  1 and 2, the gravy spoons being
placed bowl to handle, and the cheese-scoop, marrow-spoon, and salad
spoons or scissors, where most convenient. The knives are placed as in 
 Fig. 3,  for the convenience of removal,
because by this means a single knife can be abstracted without disturbing the
others; carving knives and forks should be placed above the others, point to
handle. The wine-glasses, tumblers, and finger-glasses, for dessert, are
placed where most convenient, but usually in the centre of the back, with
ice-plates near to them, and the wine-glasses placed in the
finger-glasses, as in 
 Fig. 4;  but when only one glass is used, that
is placed in the centre, mouth downwards. At very large or fashionable dinners,
the finger-glasses are sometimes placed on the dinner-table with the plain and
colored wine-glasses in them, and the same, refilled, are placed on
again at dessert. The cruets, sauces, &c., are placed at one end, and the
vegetables, &c., in the centre front of the side-board. 
 
 
 Figs. 1 & 2.  
 An illustration of three spoons and three forks with their handles
pointed to the right. 
 
 
 
 Figs. 3 & 4.  
 An illustration of four knives, handles downward and two
wineglasses inside a finger glass. 
 
 
 To place the dishes on the table. --Each servant
should be provided, at large dinders, with a bill of fare, and instructed at
small ones, where the dishes are to be placed. No two dishes resembling each
other should be near the same part of the table. 
 Soups  or broth should always be placed at the
head of the table; if there are two, top and bottom; if four, top,
bottom, and two sides, opposite each other, or alternately with fish. 
 Fish  should be placed at the head of
the table; if there are two sorts, have fried at the bottom and boiled at the
top; if four, arrange the same as the soup. We may observe, that a white
and a brown, or a mild and a high-seasoned soup, should occupy either side of
the centre piece, and that it looks handsomer to have fried and boiled
fish opposite each other, but they should never be placed upon the same
dish. Fish is generally served upon a napkin, the corners of which
are either turned in or thrown over the fish, or upon a piece of simple
netting, which is turned in all round; but we recommend our readers to use the
elegant serviette, as being more stylish. 
 
 The first course  generally consists of soups and
fish, which are removed by the roasts, stews, &c., of the second
course.  
 
 The second course,  when there are three, consists of
roasts and stews for the top and bottom; turkey or fowls,
ham garnished, tongue, or fricandeau, for the sides; with small
made dishes for corners, served in covered dishes, as curries,
ragoûts, fricassees, stews, &c. 
 When there are two roasts, one should be white, and the other brown.
Removes are generally placed upon large dishes, for, as they supply the place
of the fish and soups, they constitute the principal part of the dinner.
What are termed 
 flancs  are not so large as the removes, nor so small
as the 
 entrées,  or made dishes, and are generally
served in a differently formed dish. They are seldom used except when there are
eighteen or twenty persons. 
 
 Entrées,  or made dishes, require great care
in placing them upon the table, otherwise the gravy slops over and soils
the dish; they are, therefore, usually served with a wall of mashed
potatoes, rice, or other vegetables, to keep them in their proper
place. They should also be served as hot as possible. 
 When there is but one principal dish, it should be placed at the head
of the table. If three dishes, the principal to the head, and the others
opposite each other, near the bottom; if four, the largest to the head,
the next size to the foot, and the other two at the sides; if five,
place the same as for four, with the smallest in the centre; if six, place the
same as for four, with two small dishes on each side; if seven, put three
dishes down the centre of the table, and two on each side; if eight, four
dishes down the middle, and two on each side, at equal distances; if nine,
place them in three equal lines, but with the proper dishes at the top and
bottom of the table; if ten, put four down the centre, one at each corner,
and one on each side, opposite the vacancy between the two central dishes; or
four down the middle and three on each side, opposite the vacancies of the
centre dishes; if twelve, place them in three rows of four each, or six down
the middle, and three at equal distances on each side. If more than twelve,
they must be arranged on the same principles, but varying according to
number. 
 Oval or circular dining-tables require to have the dishes arranged in a
shape corresponding to the table. 
 
 The third course  consists of game, delicate
vegetables, dressed in the French style, then puddings, creams, jellies,
&c. 
 
 When there are only two courses,  the first generally
consists of soups and fish, removed by boiled poultry, ham,
tongue, stews, roasts, ragoûts, curries, or made dishes generally,
with vegetables. The second consists of roasted poultry or game at the
top and bottom, with dressed vegetables, maccaroni, &c., succeeded
by jellies, creams, preserved fruit, pastry and general
confectionery. It is generally contrived to give as great a variety as possible
in these dinners: thus--a jelly, a cream, a compôte, an
ornamental cake, a dish of preserved fruit, fritters, a blanc-mange, a
pudding, &c. 
 Salads and celery are usually served before the puddings and pastry
are introduced. In Great Britain, after the third course, cheese,
ornamented butter, salad, radishes, celery in a glass bowl
or on a dish, sliced cucumber (and at small parties,
marrow-bones), are served. A marrow-spoon, cheese-scoop, and
butter-knife, being required upon the table, are to be placed near the
dishes, a knife and fork near the celery, and a pair of salad-scissors
or a fork and spoon in the bowl with the salad. 
 The cheese may be served in a glass bowl, and handed round from right
to left; or surrounded with the elegant serviette, and placed upon the
cheese-cloth. The bread may be served as usual, piled up on a crochet
cloth in a plated bread-basket placed in the centre.  
 
 Waiting at Table. --Much confusion is avoided by
having an attendant upon each side of the table; or, if the party is large,
more than one, according to the number. The usual number required for parties
is given below; and if the income admit of it, the scale may be increased
according to the second column, which will materially add to the comfort of the
guests. 
 
 
 
 Guests.  	
 
 Servants.  
 
 
 6............ 
 1 2 
 12........... 
 2 3 
 15........... 
 3 4 
 20........... 
 4 6 
 30........... 
 6 8 
 40........... 
 9 12 
 50.......... 
 12 20 &c. 
 
 
 Every attendant should be neatly attired, have a white neckcloth and
white gloves on, should know where all the articles required are, where
the dishes are to be placed, and, in fact, be acquainted with the whole routine
of the party; and therefore it is better to provide each one with a bill of
fare. 
 When every guest is seated, a servant appointed for that purpose should
stand by the side of each dish, with the right hand upon the cover; and as soon
as grace is said, the cover is to be removed, and placed in some convenient
part of the room. The plates for soup should then be taken singly from the pile
opposite the person serving it, and carried to those guests who desire that
particular soup, observing that ladies are to be attended to before gentlemen,
and that these should commence from the head of the table, continuing
until both sides are helped. 
 Soon after the soup has been served, the servants may pass down each side of
the table, and ask each guest what they will take, helping them to the dish
desired as soon as it can be procured. When champagne is given, it is
handed round upon a waiter or salver at small parties, commencing at the
right-hand side of the table from the top and bottom simultaneously, without
any distinction as regards ladies or gentlemen. In large parties--and we prefer
the arrangement ourselves even in small ones--the bottle being enveloped as far
as the neck with a clean dinner-napkin, the wine is helped in the
same order as before; but instead of being handed round on a salver, the
servants pour the wine into the glass, at the right-hand side of each
guest. By these means there is less danger of the glasses being broken by any
awkward collision. The champagne is generally iced in summer, and cool
in winter, and is served as soon as the soup is finished, or just after the
guests have been helped to the second course of removes. 
 Liqueurs are handed round when sweets are on the table. Sauces are handed
round in the sauce-boat, and when served, placed on the side-board or
dinner-wagon; if only a family party, they are
 
 An illustration of five knives with the blades pointing
down. 
   returned to the table. Sweet
sauces are handed round in glass dishes, and bottle sauces in a stand or
basket made for that purpose. 
 
 In removing the dinner things,  one servant goes
round the table with a butler's tray, and the other removes and places the
things upon it. The cloth is then brushed with a crumb-brush; or the two sides
are turned in, and then the cloth dexterously jerked off the table, the
lights replaced, and the dessert set on. 
 When knives, forks, and spoons are removed from dishes or plates, they
should be placed in proper trays covered with napkins; one being used for the
silver, the other for the steel articles. 
 When plates or dishes are removed from the table, great care is to be
observed with respect to holding them horizontally, otherwise the gravy,
syrup, or liquid, may injure the dresses of the guests. 
 In some circles, the fashion prevails of placing finger-glasses on table
immediately preceding dessert; but in others, cut-glass bowls, partially filled
with rose or orange flower water, iced in summer and lukewarm in winter,
are handed down each side of the table, upon salvers; into these the guest dips
the corner of the dinner napkin, and just touches the lips and the tips of
the fingers. 
 DESSERTS, TEAS, AND SUPPERS. 
 THE DESSERT.--The dessert may consist of merely two dishes of fruit
for the top and bottom; dried fruits, biscuits, filberts,
&c., for the sides and corners; and a cake for the centre. 
 When the party is large, and ices are served, the ice-plates are placed
round the table, the ice-pails at both ends of the table, and dishes with
wafer-biscuits, at the sides. Some persons have the ices served in glass
dishes, which, together with the wafer biscuits, are handed round before
the usual dessert. 
 When there is preserved ginger, it follows the ices, as it serves to
stimulate the palate, so that the delicious coolness of the wines may be better
appreciated. 
 The side and corner dishes usually put on for dessert, consist
of:--Compôtes in glass dishes; frosted fruit served on
lace-paper, in small glass dishes; preserved and dried fruits, in
glass dishes; biscuits, plain and fancy; fresh fruit, served in
dishes surrounded with leaves or moss; olives, wafer biscuits,
brandy-scrolls, &c. 
 The centre dish may consist either of a savoy or an ornamental cake, on an
elevated stand--a group of waxen fruit, surrounded with moss--a
melon--a pine apple--grapes--or a vase of flowers. 
 Each plate should contain a knife, fork, and spoon, with two
wine-glasses, arranged upon a d'oyley, as in Fig. 5. These are to
be placed before each guest, and a finger-glass, with cold water in
summer, and luke-warm water in winter, on the right of each plate; with
grape-scissors, and melon knife and fork, before their respective
dishes. Glass bowls containing sifted sugar, with pierced ladles, or
others filled with cream, are to be placed near the centre dish, if they
are required. A cut glass pitcher with a tumbler on either side should be
 
 
 Fig. 5.  
 An illustration of a plate with a doyley in the middle of it with
set of silverware and two wineglasses setting on top of it. 
   placed in a convenient part of
the centre of the table. 
 The wine, either cooled or not, should be placed at both ends of the
table, or at the bottom, if only a small party, the decanters being placed in
castors, though this fashion is now nearly abolished. 
 Zests are put down after the dessert is removed, and consist chiefly of
anchovy toasts, devilled poultry and game, and biscuits,
gravy toast, grills, &c. 
 Coffee is the last thing served, and is generally handed round upon a
salver; after this, the gentlemen withdraw to the drawing-room. 
 
 Tea. --After a dinner party, the tea is
generally handed round by two servants, the one having tea and
coffee, with hot milk, cream, and sugar upon one
tray; the other having thinly cut and rolled bread and butter,
biscuits and cake, upon another tray. 
 If served at an evening party or dance, a servant helps the guests to
tea or coffee, which is arranged upon a side-table in a small
room. The tea and coffee occupy the two ends of the table, on
either side of the urn, which is placed in the centre and back. In front of the
urn are ranged the sugar-candy for coffee, sugar, hot
milk, cream, bread and butter, cake, and
biscuits. 
 Tea, when only for a small party, may be brought in upon a tray, the
tea and coffee-pots occupying the centre of the tray; the cups and
saucers the front; and the hot milk, cream, slop-basin, and
sugar, the ends. The urn is placed at the back of the tray; and the
bread and butter, cut or not, with cake, biscuits,
muffins, crumpets, or toast, at the sides. 
 
 Suppers. --The great secret of laying out a supper
consists in arranging the china, glass, silver, linen, lights,
confectionery, substantials, trifles, flowers, and other articles, with a due
regard to form, color, size, and material. 
 A supper table should neither be too much crowded, nor too scanty, nor
scattered and broken up with small dishes. Two dishes of the same description
should not be placed near each other: dishes should not be heaped up as if for
a ploughman's repast, but contain sufficient to make them look well, without
being over or under-done as regards quantity. 
 Hot suppers are now seldom served; for people dine later than they did
formerly; and besides being more expensive than cold ones, they also give more
trouble. 
 The centre of the table is generally occupied by an épergne, vase of
flowers, globe of fish upon an elevated stand, a plateau, or small
fountain; around which are arranged:--Dried, preserved, frosted, or candied
fruits; custards, jellies, and trifles, in glasses; and small
biscuits. The top and bottom of the table are furnished with
game, fowls, or meat; the sides have dishes of ham
sliced; tongue; collared, potted, hung, and grated beef; brawn,
mock or real; savory pies; lobsters; oysters; dressed
crab or cray-fish; prawn pyramids; sandwiches of
ham, beef, tongue, anchovy, or other savory
morsels; tarts, tartlets; cake, biscuits; whipped and other creams;
jellies, blanc-mange; caramel baskets; patties, &c. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. TRUSSING AND
CARVING. 
 
 Poultry. --The feathers must be plucked as soon as
possible after killing--and the down singed off with lighted paper, the crop
emptied by a slit cut in the back of the neck, the vent opened to clean out the
entrails, the gall-bag carefully removed, and the liver and gizzard cleansed in
cold water. The necks are to be cut off close to the body, the skin being
pushed  up above the part where it is cut, and
afterwards drawn down and wrapped over the end of the neck. Before fastening it
down, pour cold water through the body of the fowl. The back-bone and two bones
leading to the pinions may be broken, and then the bird is to be 
 trussed.  
 
 Carving. --The carving-knife for poultry and game is
smaller and lighter than that for meat; the point is more peaked, and the
handle longer. 
 In cutting up wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey, more prime pieces may be
obtained by carving slices from pinion to pinion without making wings, which is
a material advantage in distributing the bird when the party is large. 
 
 
  
 To Truss a Goose.  --Pick and stub it clean,
cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off at the first joint.
Then cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin of the
neck long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a
knot at the end. Loosen the liver and other matters at the breast
end with the middle finger, and cut it open between the vent and the
rump. Draw out the entrails, wipe the body out clean with a cloth, beat
the breast-bone flat with a rolling pin, put a skewer into the
wing, and draw the legs up close; put the skewer through the
middle of the leg, and through the body, and the same on the other side.
Put another skewer in the small of the leg, tuck it close down to the
sidesman, run it through, and do the same on the other side. Cut off the end of
the vent, and make a hole large enough for the passage of the rump, as
by that means it will keep in the seasoning much better. The best parts
are the breast slices; the fleshy part of the wing, which may be
divided from the pinion; the thigh-bone, which may be easily divided in
the joint from the leg-bone; the pinion; and next, the
side-bones. The rump is a nice piece to those who like it; and
the carcass is preferred by some to other parts. 
 
 
  
 To Truss a Turkey.  --When the bird is
picked carefully, break the leg bone close to the foot, hang on a
hook, and draw out the strings from the thigh; cut the neck close
off to the back, taking care to leave the crop-skin long enough to turn
over the back. Remove the crop, and loosen the liver and gut at
the throat end with the middle finger. Cut off the vent, remove the gut,
pull out the gizzard with a crooked wire, and the liver will soon
follow; but be careful not to break the gall. Wipe the inside perfectly
clean with a wet cloth, then cut the breast-bone through on each side
close to the back, and draw the legs close to the crop, then put a cloth
on the breast, and beat the thigh bone down with a rolling-pin
till it lies flat. 
 If the turkey is to be trussed for 
 boiling,  cut the first joint of the legs off;
pass the middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the
legs and put them under the apron of the bird. Put a skewer into the
joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it
through the body and the other leg and wing. The liver and
gizzard must be put in the pinions, care being taken to open and
previously remove the contents of the latter; the gall bladder must also
be detached from the liver. Then turn the small end of the pinion on the
back, and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep them in
their places. 
 If the turkey is to be 
 roasted,  leave the legs on, put a skewer in
the joint of the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer
through the middle of the legs and body; on the other side put another
skewer in at the small part of the leg. Put it close on the outside of
the sidesman, and push the skewer through, and the same on the other side. Put
the liver and gizzard between the pinions,  and turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then put,
close above the pinions, another skewer through the body of the bird. 
 
 
  
 To Truss Fowls.  --Fowls must be
picked very clean, and the neck cut off close to the back. Take out the
crop, and, with the middle finger, loosen the liver and other parts. Cut
off the vent, draw it clean, and beat the breast-bone flat with a
rolling pin. 
 If the fowl is to be 
 boiled,  cut off the nails of the feet, and
tuck them down close to the legs. Put your finger into the inside, and
raise the skin of the legs; then cut a hole in the top of the
skin, and put the legs under. Put a skewer in the first joint of
the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it; put a skewer
through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and then do the
same on the other side. Open the gizzard, remove the contents, and wash
it well; remove the gall-bladder from the liver. Put the
gizzard and the liver in the pinions, turn the points on the
back, and tie a string over the tops of the legs, to keep them in their
proper places. 
 If the fowl is to be 
 roasted,  put a skewer in the first joint of the
pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the skewer
through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same on
the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, and through
the sidesman; do the same on the other side, and then put another through the
skin of the feet, which should have the nails cut off. 
 The prime parts of a fowl, whether roasted or boiled, are the
wings, breast and merry-thought; and next to these, the
neck-bones and side-bones; the legs are rather coarse--of
a boiled fowl, however, the legs are rather more tender than a
roasted one; of the leg of a fowl the thigh is the better part,
and therefore when given to any one should be separated from the
drum-stick, which is done by passing the knife underneath, in the
hollow, and turning the thigh-bone back from the leg-bone. 
 
 
  
 To Truss Chickens.  --Pick and draw them in
the same manner as you would fowls; but, as their skins are very
tender, plunge them into scalding water, and remove, when the feathers
will come off readily. 
 If they are to be 
 boiled,  cut off the nails, notch the sinews on each
side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then peel the
rump. Draw the skin tight over the legs, put a skewer in
the first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close.
Put the skewer through the middle of the legs, and through the body; and
do the same on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and remove the
gall from the liver; put them into the pinions, and turn the
points on the back. 
 If for 
 roasting,  cut off the feet, put a skewer in
the first joint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the legs close.
Run the skewer through the middle of the legs and body, and do the same
on the other side. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put the legs
between the apron and the sidesman, and run the skewer through. Having cleaned
the liver and gizzard, put them under the pinions, turn the
points on the back, and pull the breast-skin over the neck. 
 
 
  
 To Truss Pheasants.  --Pick them clean, cut
a slit at the back of the neck, take out the crop, loosen the
liver, and gut the breast with the fore-finger; then cut
off the vent, and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the first joint, and wipe
out the inside with the pinion. Beat the breast-bone flat with a
rolling-pin, put a skewer in the pinion, and bring the middle of the
legs close. Then run the skewer through the legs, body, and the
other pinion, twist the head, and put it on the
  end of the skewer, with the bill fronting the
breast. Put another skewer into the sidesman, and put the legs
close on each side of the apron, and then run the skewer through all. If you
wish the cock-pheasant to look well, leave the beautiful feathers on the
head, and cover with paper to protect them from the fire. Save
the long feathers from the tail; and when cooked, stick them into the
rump before sending to table. 
 If the pheasants are for 
 boiling,  put the legs in the same manner as
in trussing a fowl. 
 
 
  
 To Truss Pigeons.  --Pick clean, take off
the neck close to the back; then remove the crop, cut off the vent, and
draw out the entrails and gizzard, but leave the liver, as a
pigeon has no gall-bladder. 
 If for 
 roasting,  cut off the toes, cut a slit in one of the
legs, and put the other through it. Draw the leg tight to the
pinion, put a skewer through the pinion, legs, and body, and with the
handle of the knife break the breast flat. Clean the gizzard, and
put it under one of the pinions, and turn the points on the back. 
 If for 
 boiling  or 
 stewing,  cut the feet off at the joint, turn
the legs, and stick them in the sides, close to the pinions. If for a 
 pie,  they must be done in the same manner. 
 
 
  
 To Truss Wild Fowl.  --Pick clean, cut off
the neck close to the back, and, with the middle finger, loosen the
liver and other parts. Cut off the pinions at the first joint; then cut
a slit between the vent and the rump, and draw them clean. Clean them
properly with the long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn
the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in the pinion, pull the
legs close to the breast, and run the skewer through the
legs, body, and the other pinion. Cut off the end of the vent, and put
the rump through it. 
 
 All kinds of wild-fowl are to be trussed thus: 
 
  
 To Truss Woodcock, Plover and Snipe.  --If
these birds are not very fresh, great care must be taken in picking them, as
they are very tender to pick at any time; for even the heat of the hand will
sometimes take off the skin, which will destroy the beauty of the bird.
When picked clean, cut the pinions in the first joint, and with the handle of a
knife beat the breast-bone flat. Turn the legs close to the
thighs, and tie them together at the joints. Put the thighs close
to the pinions, put a skewer into the pinions, and run it through the
thighs, body, and other pinions. Skin the head, turn it,
take out the eyes, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the
bill close to the breast. 
 These birds must never be drawn.  
 
 
 An illustration of dressed and trussed wild fowl. 
 
 
  
 To Truss small Birds.  --Pick well, cut off
their heads, and the pinions of the first joint. Beat the
breast-bone flat, and turn the feet close to the legs, and
put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a skewer through
the middle of the bodies. Tie the skewer fast to the spit when you put them
down to roast. 
 
 
  
 To Truss Hare or Rabbit.  --
 A hare or rabbit  should be 
 paunched,  or cleaned, as soon as it is killed. The
inside should be kept dry and peppered. When trussed, the sinews of the
hind-legs must be cut, and the legs turned towards the
head and fastened to the sides. The fore-legs must be turned to
meet the hind-legs, and fastened, with slight skewers to the body. The
head is thrown back and kept in place by a skewer passed through it. The
stuffing is put in, and the skin sewed up. A string fastens all
compactly together. The ears of a rabbit are to be cut off when roasted
or boiled. 
 
 
  
 CARVING. 
 Ladies ought especially to make carving a study; at their own houses, they
grace the table, and should be enabled to perform the task allotted to them
with sufficient skill to prevent remark or the calling forth of eager proffers
of assistance from good-natured visitors near, who probably would not present
any better claim to a neat performance. 
 Carving presents no difficulties; it requires simply knowledge. All display
of exertion or violence are in very bad taste; for, if not an evidence of the
want of ability on the part of the carver, they present a very strong testimony
of the toughness of a joint or the more than full age of a bird: in both cases
they should be avoided. A good knife of moderate size, sufficient length of
handle, and very sharp, is requisite; for a lady it should be light, and
smaller than that used by gentlemen. Fowls are very easily carved, and joints,
such as loins, breasts, fore-quarters, &c. The butcher should have strict
injunctions to separate the joints well. 
 The dish upon which the article to be carved is placed should be
conveniently near to the carver, so that he has full control over it; for if
far off nothing can prevent an ungraceful appearance, nor a difficulty in
performing that which in its proper place could be achieved with ease. 
 In serving fish, some nicety and care must be exercised; here lightness of
hand and dexterity of management is necessary, and can only be acquired by
practice. The flakes which, in such fish as salmon and cod are large, should
not be broken in serving, for the beauty of the fish is then destroyed, and the
appetite for it injured. In addition to the skill in the use of the knife,
there is also required another description of knowledge, and that is an
acquaintance with the best parts of the joint, fowl, or fish being carved.
Thus, in a haunch of venison, the fat, which is a favorite, must be served with
each slice; in the shoulder of mutton there are some delicate cuts in the under
part. The breast and wings are the best parts of a fowl, the trail of a
woodcock on a toast is the choicest part of the bird. In fish a part of the
roe, melt, or liver should accompany the piece of fish served; the list,
however, is too numerous to mention here; and, indeed, the knowledge can only
be acquired by experience. In large establishments the gross dishes are carved
at the buffet by the butler, but in general they are placed upon the table. 
 
  
 Fish  is served with a fish-slice, or
the new fish-knife and fork, and requires very little carving, care
being required, however, not to break the flakes, which, from their size, add
much to the beauty of cod and salmon. Serve part of the
roe, melt, or liver, to each person. The heads of carp,
part of those of cod and salmon, sounds of cod, and fins
of turbot, are likewise considered delicacies. Should be deprived of the
head and tail by passing the slice across in the direction of lines 1
and 2; they should then be divided down the back, so as to assist each person
to a slice; but if less is required, the thicker end should be given, as it is
more esteemed. If the roe is asked for, it will be found between 1 and
2. 
  
 Mackerel 
 An illustration of two mackerel laying side by side on a
platter. 
  
 Barbel, Carp, Haddock, Herring, Perch,
Whiting, &c., should be helped the same  as Mackerel; remembering that the head of the
Carp is esteemed a delicacy. 
  
 Cod's Head and Shoulders. 
 An illustration of cod's head on a plate. 
  
 Pass the fish-slice or knife from 1 to 6 down to the bone;
then help pieces from between 1-2, and 3-4, and with each slice give a piece of
the sound, which lies under the back-bone, and is procured by passing
the knife in the direction 4-5. There are many delicate parts about the
head, particularly the oyster, which is the cheek, below the eye;
and a great deal of the jelly kind, which lies about the jaws. The
tongue aud palate are considered delicacies, and are obtained by passing
the slice or a spoon into the mouth. 
  
 Salmon. 
 An illustration of a salmon with head and tail
removed. 
  
 Give a portion of the back and belly to each person, or as desired. If a
whole salmon is served, remember that the choice parts are next the
head, the thin part is the next best, and the tail the least esteemed.
Make an incision along the back, 9 to 10, and another from 1 to 2, and 3 to 4;
cut the thickest part, between 5-6, 10-2, for the lean; and 7-8 for the
fat. When the fish is very thick, do not help too near the
bone, as the flavor and color are not so good. 
 
 Although carving with ease and elegance is a very necessary accomplishment,
yet most people are lamentably deficient not only in the art of dissecting
winged game and poultry, but also in the important point of knowing the
parts most generally esteemed. Practice only can make good carvers; but the
directions here given, with accompanying plates, will enable any one to
disjoint a fowl, and avoid the awkwardness of disfiguring a joint. 
 In the first place, whatever is to be carved should be set in a dish
sufficiently large for turning it if necessary; but the dish itself should not
be moved from its position, which should be so close before the carver as only
to leave room for the plates. The carving-knife should be light, sharp,
well-tempered, and of a size proportioned to the joint, strength being less
required than address in the manner of using it. Large solid joints, such as
ham, fillet of veal, and salt beef, cannot be cut too
thin; but mutton, roast pork, and the other joints of
veal, should never be served in very slender slices. 
 
  
 A Round  (buttock) 
 or Aitch-bone of Beef.  --Pare off from the
upper part, of either, a slice from the whole surface, of about half an inch
thick, and put it aside; then cut thin slices of both lean and fat, in
the direction from 
 a  to 
 b.  The 
 soft fat,  which resembles marrow, lies
at the back of the aitch-bone, below 
 c,  but the 
 firm fat  must be cut in slender horizontal
slices at 
 a,  and is much better than the soft when eaten
cold. 
 
 
 Aitch-bone of Beef. 
 An illustration of a beef roast. 
 
 
  
 Ribs of Beef.  --Cut along the whole length
of the bone, from end to end, 
 a  to 
 b,  either commencing in the centre or at one side,
having the thin end towards you; but if cut from the bone and formed
into a round, with the fat end doubled into the centre, it must then be
cut in the same manner as the round of beef. 
 
 
 Brisket of Beef. 
 An illustration of a piece of beef on a plate. 
 
 
  
 Brisket of Beef  must be carved in the
direction 1 and 2, quite down to the bone, after cutting off the
outside, which should be about three-quarters of an inch thick. 
 
 
  
 Sirloin of Beef.  --Cut in the same manner
as the ribs, commencing either at the centre or the side, as from 
 a  to 
 b.  The under part should be cut across the
bone, as at 
 c  for the lean, and 
 d  for the rich fat; many persons prefer the
under to the upper part, the meat being more tender. 
 
 
 Sirloin of Beef. 
 An illustration of piece of meat laying on its side. 
 
 
  
 Fillet of Veal.  --Carve it in the same
manner as the round of beef; but the upper slice should be cut somewhat
thinner, as most persons like a little of the brown, and a portion of it should
be served along with each slice, together with a slice of the fat and
stuffing, which is skewered within the flap. 
 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 An illustration of a piece of meat with two skewers poking out of
the right side. 
 
 
  
 Neck of Veal.  --Cut across the ribs,
as at 
 a  to 
 b:  the small bones, as at 
 c  to 
 d,  being cut off, divided, and served separately,
for it is not only a tedious, but a vulgar operation to attempt to disjoint the
ribs. 
 
 
 Neck of Veal. 
 An illustration of a piece of meat with bones protruding from the
bottom. 
 
 
  
 Loin of Veal.  --The joint is placed in the
dish in the same manner as a sirloin of beef, but should be turned up,
and the whole of the kidney and fat cut out; the fat being
usually put upon a dry toast and served as marrow. The
loin is then returned to its former position, and the meat should
be cut across the ribs as in the neck, serving it with a slice of
kidney. 
 
 
 Knuckle of Veal. 
 An illustration of a piece of meat on a platter. 
 
 
  
 Knuckle of Veal  is to be carved in the
direction 1-2. The most delicate fat lies about the part 4, and if cut
in the line 3-4, the two bones, between which the marrowy fat
lies, will be divided. 
 
 
  
 Breast of Veal,  being very gristly, is  not easily divided into pieces. In order, therefore, to
avoid this difficulty, put your knife at 
 a  about four inches from the edge of the thickest
part (which is called "the brisket"), and cut through it to 
 b,  to separate it from the 
 long ribs:  cut the 
 short bones  across, as at 
 d, d, d,  and the long ones as at 
 c, c, c;  ask which is chosen, and help accordingly.
The remaining scrag part is seldom served at table, but forms an excellent stew
when dressed in the French mode. 
 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 An illustration of a piece of meat. 
 
 
  
 Shoulder of Veal.  --Cut in the same manner
as a shoulder of mutton, beginning on the under side. 
 
 
  
 Calf's Head.  --Cut slices from 
 a  to 
 b  in the figure, which describes only half the
head, letting the knife go close to the bone. Many like the eye
at 
 c,  which you must cut out with the point of your
knife, and divide in two, along with some of the glutinous bits which surround
it. If the jaw-bone be taken off, there will be found some fine lean,
and under the head is the palate, which is reckoned a delicacy. 
  
 Calf's Head. 
 An illustration of a calf's head on a platter. 
  
 The tongue and brains are dished separately, but served in
small portions along with the head. 
 
 
  
 Leg of Mutton.  --The best part of a leg
of mutton, whether boiled or roasted, is midway between the knuckle and the
broad end. Begin to help there from the roundest and thickest part, by cutting
slices, not too thin, from 
 b  down to 
 c.  This part is the most juicy; but many prefer the
knuckle, which, in fine mutton, will be very tender, though dry. There
are very fine slices in the back of the leg; therefore, if the party be
large, turn it up and cut the broad end; not across in the direction you did
the other side, 
 but longwise,  from the thick end to the
knuckle-bone. To cut out the cramp-bone, which some persons look
upon as a delicacy, pass your knife under in the direction of 
 e,  and it will be found between that and 
 d.  
 
 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 An illustration of a skinned leg of mutton. 
 
 
  
 Shoulder of Mutton,  though commonly looked
upon as a very homely joint, is by many preferred to the leg, as there
is much variety of flavor, as well as texture, in both the upper and under
parts. 
 The figure represents it laid in the dish as always served, with its 
 back uppermost.  Cut through it from 
 a  down to the blade-bone at 
 b;  afterwards slice it along each side of the
blade-bone from 
 c 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton. 
 An illustration of a skinned mutton shoulder. 
  
 c b.  The prime part of the fat lies on the
outer edge, and is to be cut in thin slices in the direction of 
 d.  
 The 
 under part,  as here represented, contains many
favorite pieces of different sorts, as, crosswise, in slices, near the
shank-bone at 
 b;  and, lengthwise, in broad pieces, at the further
end 
 a;  as well as in the middle and sides in the manner
designated at 
 c  and 
 d.  
  
 An illustration of mutton shoulder turned upside
down. 
  
 Should it be intended to reserve a portion of the joint to be eaten cold,
all this undermost part should be first cut away and served separately, both as
it eats better hot than cold, and as the upper remaining part will appear more
sightly in the table. 
 
 
  
 Loin of Mutton.  --Cut the joints into chops
and serve them separately; or cut slices the whole length of the loin;
or run the knife along the chine-bone, and then slice it, the fat
and lean together, as shown in the cut of the saddle, in the next column. 
 
 
  
 Neck of Mutton.  --It should be prepared for
table as follows:--Cut off the scrag; have the chine-bone carefully sawn
off, and also the top of the long bones (about an inch and a half,) and
the thin part turned under; carve in the direction of the bones. 
 
 The 
 scrag of mutton,  when roasted, is very
frequently separated from the ribs of the neck, and in that case
the meat and bones may be helped together. 
 
  
 Saddle of Mutton.  --Cut in long and rather
thin slices from the tail to the end, beginning at each side close to the
back-bone, from 
 a  to 
 b,  with slices of fat from 
 c  to 
 d;  or along the bone which divides the two
loins, so as to loosen from it the whole of the meat from that side
which you then cut crosswise, thus giving with each slice both fat and
lean. The tail end is usually divided and partly turned up. Some butchers also
skewer the kidneys across the incision, but it is not usual at genteel
tables, and the incision is better omitted. 
 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 An Illustration of a piece of mutton. 
 
 
 Fore-Quarter of Lamb. 
 An illustration of a piece of lamb turned upright. 
 
 
 Haunch of Venison. 
 An illustration of a piece of venison turned
upright. 
  
 
  
 Haunch of Mutton.  --A haunch is the
leg and part of the loin, and is cut in the same manner as a
haunch of venison. 
 
 
  
 Fore-Quarter of Lamb.  --Pass the knife
under the shoulder in the direction of 
 a, c, b, d,  so as to separate it from the
ribs without cutting the meat too much off the bones. A
Seville orange or lemon should then be divided, the halves sprinkled
with salt and pepper, and the juice squeezed over the
under part. A little cold or melted butter is then put between both
parts, after which the shoulder is placed in a separate dish to be helped by
some other person. Divide the ribs from 
 d  to 
 e,  and then serve the neck 
 f,  and breast 
 g,  as may be chosen. 
 
 
  
 Haunch of Venison.  --Have the joint
lengthwise before you, the knuckle being the farthest point. Cut from 
 a  to 
 b,  but be careful not to let out the gravy;
then cut along the whole length from 
 a  down to 
 d.  The knife should slope in making the first cut,
and then the whole of the gravy will be received in the well. The
greater part of the fat, which is the favorite portion, will be found at
the left side, and care must be taken to serve some with each slice. 
 
 
  
 Neck of Venison.  --Cut across the
ribs diagonally; or it may be cut in slices the whole length of the
neck. The first method is equally good, and much more economical. 
 
 
 Leg of Pork. 
 An illustration of a leg of pork. 
 
 
  
 A leg of Pork,  whether boiled or roasted,
is carved the same. Commence about midway, between the knuckle and the thick
end, and cut thin deep slices from either side of the line 1 to 2. 
 
 
 Pork. --In helping the roast loin and
leg, your knife must follow the direction of the scores cut by the cook
upon the skin which forms the crackling, as it is too crisp for being
conveniently divided, and cannot therefore be cut across the bones of
the ribs, as in loin of mutton. The scores upon the roasted
leg are, however, always marked too broadly for single cuts; the
crackling must therefore be lifted up from the back to allow of thin slices
being cut from the meat; the seasoning is under the skin
at the larger end. 
 
 Ham. 
 An illustration of a ham wrapped in decorative
packaging. 
 
 
 Ham. --Serve it with the back upwards,
sometimes ornamented, and generally having, as in France, the shank-bone
covered with cut paper. Begin in the middle by cutting long and very
thin slices from 
 a  to 
 b,  continuing down to the thick fat at the
broad end. The first slice should be wedge-shaped, that all the others may be
cut slanting, which gives a handsome appearance to them. Many persons, however,
prefer the hock at 
 d  as having more flavor; it is then carved
lengthwise from 
 c  to 
 d.  
 
 A Tongue. 
 An illustration of a tongue laying on a platter. 
 
 
  
 A Tongue  should be cut across, nearly  through the middle, at the line 1, and thin slices
taken from each side; a portion of the fat, which is situated at the
root of the tongue, being helped with each. 
 
 
 Roast Pig. 
 An illustration of a pig split at the breast and laying flat on a
platter. 
 
 
 Sucking-pig. --The cook usually divides the
body before it is sent to table--as thus--and garnishes the dish with the jaws
and ears. 
 Separate a shoulder from one side, and then the leg, according to the
direction given by the line along the carcass. The ribs are then to be
divided; and an ear or jaw presented with them, and plenty of
sauce and stuffing. The joints may either be divided into two
each, or pieces may be cut from them. The ribs are reckoned the finest
part; but some people prefer the neck end, between the shoulders. 
 
 Rabbit. 
 An illustration of a rabbit trussed for cooking. 
 
 
  
 Rabbits.  --Put the point of the knife under
the shoulder at 
 b,  and so cut all the way down to the rump,
along the sides of the backbone, in the limb 
 b, a,  cutting it in moderately thick slices; or,
after removing the shoulders and legs, cut the back crosswise in four or
five pieces; but this can only be done when the rabbit is very young, or
when it is boned. To separate the legs and shoulders, put the knife
between the leg and back, and give it a little turn inwards at the
joint, which you must endeavor to hit, and not to break by force. The shoulders
may be removed by a circular cut around them. The back is the most delicate
part, and next to that the thighs. A portion of the stuffing
should be served with each slice. The brains and ears of
sucking-pig and rabbit are also considered epicurean titbits,
which must not be neglected; wherefore, when every one is helped, cut off the
head, put your knife between the upper and lower jaw and divide them,
which will enable you to lay the upper flat on your plate; then put the point
of the knife into the centre, and cut the head into two. 
 
 
 Boiled Rabbit. 
 An illustration of a cooked, trussed rabbit laying on its
stomach. 
 
 
 Boiled Rabbits. --The legs and
shoulders should be first taken off, and then the back cut across into two
parts, which is easily done by a bend of the knife in the joint underneath,
about the middle of the back. The back is the best, and some of the
liver should always accompany it. 
 The carving of both WINGED GAME and POULTRY requires more delicacy of
hand and nicety in hitting the joints than the cutting of large pieces of
meat, and, to be neatly done, requires considerable practice. 
 
 Roast Turkey. 
 An illustration of a dressed turkey with skewers through the wings
and legs. 
 
 
  
 Roast Turkey.  --Cut long slices from  each side of the breast down to the
ribs, beginning at  a b  from the wing to the breastbone. Then
turn the turkey upon the side nearest you, and cut off the leg
and wing; when the knife is passed between the limbs and the body, and
pressed outward, the joint will be easily perceived. Then turn the
turkey on the other side, and cut off the leg and wing.
Separate the drumsticks from the leg bones, and the pinions from the
wings; it is hardly possible to mistake the joint. Cut the
stuffing in thin slices, length-wise. Take off the neck-bones,
which are two triangular bones on each side of the breast; this
is done by passing the knife from the back under the blade part of each
neck-bone, until it reaches the end: by raising the knife the other
branch will easily crack off. Separate the carcass from the back by passing the
knife lengthwise from the neck downward. Turn the back upwards and lay
the edge of the knife across the backbone about midway between the legs
and wings; at the same moment, place the fork within the lower part of
the turkey, and lift it up; this will make the back-bone crack at
the knife. The croup, or lower part of the back, being cut off, put it on the
plate with the rump from you, and split off the side-bones by
forcing the knife through from the rump to the other end. 
 
 The choicest parts of a turkey are the side-bones, the
breast and the thigh-bones. The breast and wings
are called light meat; the thigh-bones and side-bones dark
meat. When a person declines expressing a preference, it is polite to
help to both kinds. 
 
 Boiled Turkey. 
 An illustration of a dressed turkey with perforations in its
breast, a skewer through its wings and legs tucked inside. 
 
 
  
 Boiled Turkey  is carved in the same way as
the roast, the only difference being in the trussing; the legs in the
boiled being, as here shown, drawn into the body, and in the roast
skewered. 
 
 
  
 Roast Fowl.  --Slip the knife between the
leg and body, and cut to the bone; then with the fork turn the
leg back, and the joint will give way if the bird is not old. Take the
wing off in the direction of 
 a  to 
 b,  only dividing the joint with your knife. When the
four quarters are thus removed, take off the merry-thought from 
 c,  and the neck bones; these last, by putting
in the knife at 
 d,  and pressing it, will break off from the part
that sticks to the breast. The next thing is to divide the breast
from the carcass, by cutting through the tender ribs close to the
breast, quite down to the tail. Then lay the back upwards, put your
knife into the bone half way from the neck to the
 
 Roast Fowl. 
 An illustration of a roasted fowl and a diagram on it indicating
how it should be carved. 
 
 
 Boiled Fowl, breast. 
 An illustration of top of a boiled fowl. 
 
 
 Boiled Fowl, back. 
 An illustration of the bottom of a boiled fowl. 
 
 
 An illustration of a fowl breast with a knife removing the
wing. 
   rump, and on raising the
lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from you, take off the
two sidesmen, and the whole will be done. To separate the thigh from the
drumstick of the leg insert the knife into the joint as above. It
requires practice to hit the joint at the first trial. The breast and
wings are considered the best parts. 
 
 If the bird be a capon, or large, and roasted, the breast may
be cut into slices in the same way as a pheasant. 
 The difference in the carving of boiled and roast fowls consists only
in the breast of the latter being always served whole, and the
thigh-bone being generally preferred to the wing. 
 
 Roast Goose. 
 An illustration of a roast goose laying breast up, has
perforations in the breast and a skewer through the wings. 
 
 
  
 Geese.  --Cut thin slices from the
breast at 
 a  to 
 b;  the wing is generally separated as in
turkeys, but the leg is almost constantly reserved for broiling.
Serve a little of the seasoning from the inside by cutting a circular
slice in the apron at 
 c.  
 
 
  
 Pheasant.  --Slip the knife between the
leg and the breast: cut off a wing 
 small  from 
 a  to 
 b;  then slice the breast, and you will have
two or three handsome cuts. Cut off the merry-thought by passing the knife
under it towards the neck, and cut all the other parts as in a
fowl. The breast, wings, and merry-thought are the most
esteemed: but the thigh has a high flavor. 
 
 
 Pheasant. 
 An illustration of a pheasant dress with skewers through wings and
legs. 
 
 
  
 Partridge.  --It may be cut up in the same
manner as a fowl; but the bird being small, it is unusual to divide it
into more than three portions--the leg and wing being left
together, and the breast helped entire; the back, being only served
along with some of the other parts. If the birds are very young, and the party
not over large, the whole body is not unfrequently only separated into two
pieces, by one cut of the knife from head to tail. 
 
 
 Patridge. 
 An illustration of a partridge dressed wings skewered and the legs
crossed over the breast and skewered. 
 
 
 Quails. --Generally helped whole. 
 
  
 Grouse, Snipe,  and 
 Woodcock. --Proceed as for partridge,
except that the 
 trail  or entrails of the two latter is served up on
toast. As regards these different sorts of game, the thigh
of the pheasant and the woodcock is the best, and the
breast and wing of the partridge and grouse; but the most
epicurean morsel of all is the trail of the woodcock served up on
toast. Smaller birds should always be helped as they are roasted,
whole. 
 
 
  
 Wild-Duck, Widgeon,  and most sorts of
 water-fowl. --Make two or three incisions, as long slices, into the
 breast,  on which a glass of hot port- wine  is poured; have ready a
 lemon  cut in half, on one side covered with  salt,  and on the other
with  cayenne pepper.  Put both together, then squeeze the  juice 
over the  breast; 
 
 Pigeon, back. 
 An illustration of a dressed pigeon breast up with legs tucked
into the skin and wings skewered. 
 
 
 Pigeon, breast. 
 An illustration of a pigeon backside up with a skewer through its
wings and legs tucked inside the skin. 
   after which the slices and limbs
may be served round. 
 
   Pigeons.  --Cut them in half, through both back
and  breast;  the lower part is generally thought the best. 
  Fish  requires very little carving; it should be carefully helped with
a  fish -slice, which, not being sharp, prevents the flakes from being
broken, and in  salmon  and  cod  these are large and add much to
their beauty. 
 NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN ANIMALS. 
 1.-- BEEF.  
 
 An illustration of a steer with a diagram drawn on it indicating
the different cuts of meat. 
 
 
 
 Hind Quarter.   1.
Sirloin.  2. Rump.  3.
Aitch-Bone.  4. Buttock.  5.
Mouse-Buttock.  6. Veiny Piece.  7. Thick
Flank.  8. Thin Flank.  9. Leg.  10.
Fore-ribs; 5 ribs. 
 
 Fore Quarter.   11.
Middle-rib; 4 ribs.   12. Chuck;
3 ribs.  13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton
Piece.  14. Brisket.  15.
Clod.  16. Neck or Sticking Piece.  17. Shin.  18. Cheek.  
 2.-- Mutton or Lamb.  
 
 An illustration of a sheep with a diagram drawn on it indicating
the different cuts of meat. 
 
  1. Leg.   2. Loin, best
end.  3. Loin, chump end.  4. Neck, best
end.  5. Neck, scrag end.  6. Shoulder.  7. Breast.  8. Head.  A Chine is two
Necks.  A Saddle is two Loins.  
 3.-- Pork.  
 
 An illustration of a pig with a diagram drawn on it indicating the
different cuts of meat. 
 
  1. The Spare-rib.  2. The Hand.  3.
The Belly or Spring.  4. Fore-loin.  5. Hind-loin.  6.
Leg.  7. Head.    4.--
 Veal.  
 
 An illustration of a calf with a diagram drawn on it indicating
the different cuts of meat. 
 
  1. Loin, best end.  2. Loin, chump
end.  3. Fillet.  4. Hind-knuckle.  5.
Fore-knuckle.  6. Neck, best end.  7. Neck, scrag end.  8.
Blade-bone.  9. Breast, best
end.  10. Breast, Brisket end.  11. Head.      5.--
 Venison.  
 
 An illustration of a deer with a diagram drawn on it indicating
the different cuts of meat. 
 
  1. Haunch.  2. Neck.  3.
Shoulder.  4. Breast.  
 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. CULINARY UTENSILS. *  
 THE various utensils used for the preparation and keeping of food are made 
 *For the cuts in this chapter, and for the engravings of
house-keeping utensils throughout the book 
the Publishers are indebted to the courtesy of Messrs. J.
&c. BERRIAN, whose establishment is at 601 Broadway, between Prince and
Houston streets, New York. 
 either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or wood; each of which is better suited to some particular purposes than the others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the knowledge of this is necessary to the preservation of health in general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous consequences. 

  Waffle Iron to revolve over hole in Range or Stove.  An illustration of a rectangular metal box housing four moulds and a lid.   

 The metals commonly used in the construction of these vessels are silver,
copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is preferable to all others, because
it cannot be dissolved by any of the substances used as food. Brimstone unites
with silver, and forms a thin brittle crust over it that gives it the
appearance of being tarnished. The discoloring of silver spoons used with eggs
arises from the brimstone contained in eggs. Nitre or saltpetre has also a
slight effect upon silver, but nitre and silver seldom remain long enough
together in domestic uses to require any particular caution. 

  Egg Frier or Fancy Cake Baker.  A metal pan with a handle.  The inside of the pan has a decorative design.  

 Copper and brass are both liable to be dissolved by vinegar, acid fruits,
and pearlash. Such solutions are highly poisonous, and great caution should be
used to prevent accidents of the kind. Vessels made of these metals are
generally tinned, that is, lined with a thin coating of a mixed metal,
containing both tin and lead. Neither acids, nor any thing containing pearlash,
should ever be suffered to remain above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the
tinning is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect over the
surface of the copper or brass. 

  Muffin Baker.  An illustration of a pan made of seven round cups, four legs and a handle.   

 The utensils made of what is called block tin are constructed of iron plates
coated with tin. This is as liable to be dissolved as the tinning of copper or
brass vessels, but iron is not an unwholesome substance, if even a portion of
it should be dissolved and mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the
safest metals for the construction of culinary utensils; and the objection to
its more extensive use only rests upon its liability to rust, so that it
requires more cleaning and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as quinces,
orange-peel, artichokes, &c., are blackened by remaining in iron vessels,
which therefore must not be used for them. 
 Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be used for milk and
cream if it be ever likely to stand till it become sour. They are unsafe also
for the purpose of keeping salted meats. 
 The best kind of pottery ware is oriental china, because the glazing is a
perfect  glass, which cannot be dissolved, and the
whole substance is so compact that liquid cannot penetrate it. Many of the
English pottery wares are badly glazed, and as the glazing is made principally
of lead, it is necessary to avoid putting vinegar and other acids into them.
Acids and greasy substances penetrate into unglazed wares, excepting the strong
stone ware; or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence give a bad
flavor to any thing they are used for afterwards. They are quite unfit,
therefore, for keeping pickles or salted meats. Glass vessels are infinitely
preferable to any pottery ware but oriental china, and should be used whenever
the occasion admits of it. 
 Wooden vessels are very proper for keeping many articles of food, and should
always be preferred to those lined with lead. If any substance has fermented or
become putrid in a wooden cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to
produce a similar effect upon any thing that may be put into it in future. It
is useful to char the insides of these wooden vessels before they are used, by
burning wooden shavings, so as to coat the insides with a crust of
charcoal. 
 As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure, from the repetition
of its baneful effects, to injure the health, a due precaution with respect to
all culinary vessels is necessary for its more certain preservation. There is a
kind of hollow iron ware lined with enamel, which is superior to every other
utensil for sauces or preserves; indeed it is preferable for every purpose. 
 A kitchen should always be well furnished; there is no necessity that it
should be profusely so, but there should be a sufficiency of every thing which
can aid in producing the dishes preparing, with the success which is so
essential to the gratification of the palate. A good workman cannot work well
with bad tools, neither can good cooks do justice to their proficiency, if they
possess not the necessary utensils suitable to the various modes of cooking.
And when this important point has been realized, 
 cleanliness in every article used should be scrupulously
observed;  no utensil should be suffered to be put away dirty; it not
only injures the article itself materially, to say nothing of the impropriety
of the habit, but prevents its readiness for use on any sudden occasion. No 
 good  cook or servant would be guilty of such an act;
those who are do so either from laziness or want of system, or a nature
naturally dirty; if a very strong hint will not suffice, it is of little use
speaking out. A servant who is inherently dirty or slovenly, should never be
retained; it is better and easier to change frequently until the mistress is
suited, however unpleasant frequent changes may prove, than Quixotically
attempt to cure a person of this description. Cleanliness is the most essential
ingredient in the art of cooking, and at any personal sacrifice should be
maintained in the kitchen. 
 The fixtures or fittings of a kitchen depend upon the builder, and in modern
houses sufficient attention is paid to the situations of the range, dresser,
larder, &c., to embody convenience.    An illustration of a large and small mix bowl both with the appropriate sized wire whisks inside the bowl.  
 In furnishing a kitchen, there should be every thing likely to be required,
but not one article more than is wanted. Unnecessary profusion creates a
litter;  and a deficiency too often sacrifices the
perfection of a dish. The following articles, of which we give engravings, are
requisite.    The Nursery Milk Warmer.  An illustration of a pot inside of boiler halved to show how they function.  
 This is a very useful apparatus, on the principle of the Bain Marie, or
Water Bath. 
 It consists of a block-tin saucepan to hold water, and a smaller one, with
cover of the same material to fit within, but not to reach to the bottom of the
external saucepan. This effectually prevents the common accident of burning
what is intended to be boiled; for the reason that the heat cannot be increased
beyond boiling or 212°; 
 a  represents the inner, and 
 b  the external saucepan; the cover seen at the top
will fit both saucepans. 
 A Double Floored Griddle, the best iron Griddle in use. Very thick;
therefore it gets hot or cold gradually, retains the heat longer, cooks better,
and smokes less than ordinary griddles.    Double Floored
Griddle.        Beefsteak Maul.  A long cyclindrical mallet with ridges on the working end.   
 A Beefsteak Pounder for making beefsteak tender.    Beefsteak Pounder.  An illustration of wooden mallet.  
 Wooden Moulds for moulding butter.    Butter Moulds.  An illustration of two blocks of wood with a design of a swan craved in them.   
 For working butter into form, similar to Butter Hands, the 
  Butter Board and Knife.  An illustration of a square board with a butter knife laying across it.    
  Biscuit Mould or Block.  An illustration of a rectangular block of wood with six designs carved into it.   
 The pastry is rolled into this and forms half the biscuit; others are made
and fastened together, either before or after being baked.   Tea Bread Knife.  An illustration of a large knife with a decorative side on the one side of the blade and a sharp edge on the other.  

 For cutting bread; it can be regulated by screws at the ends to cut any
thickness.    Butter Pats.  An illustration of two devices that resemble bells in there shape, but inside is carved a swan.   
 A mould and stamp for butter by which you can have the full size of the
stamp, and the butter any thickness.    Apple Roaster.  An illustration of a rectangular, metal box with a handle, long legs and an open side.  
 Tin Apple Roasters are often made with a shelf, making two divisions,
roasting double the quantity.    Potato Masher.  An illustration of a wooden mallet shaped like a bell with a long handle.      Knife Washer.  An illustration of a deep square metal box with handles and a metal grate on top.  

 To wash Ivory, Pearl, or other handled knives thoroughly, without allowing
the greasy water to come in contact with and thereby soil or stain the
handles.     Cheese Toaster.  An illustration of a rectangular metal box with a lid and handle.   
  Preserve Pan Enamelled.  An illustration of a deep, oval pan with handles.      Etna.  An illustration of a glass-shaped,metal container with a lid and a handle sticking out of the side.   
 It will boil a pint of water in three minutes.    Biscuit,
Cake, and Tartlet Cutters.  An illustration of 4 different shaped biscuit cutters.      Cake and Vegetable Cutters.  An illustration of five cake and vegetable cutters shaped like a fleur de lis, swan, giraffe, seagull, and a flower.   
  Sponge Cake Pans.  An illustration of three shallow rectangular pans.      Queen Cake, or Pound Cake Pans.  An illustration of three pans shaped like a heart, circle and diamond.   
  Jelly and Vegetable Moulds.  An illustration of three small, round, decorative jelly moulds.      Oblong and Round Jelly Moulds.  An illustration of three large oblong and round jelly moulds.   
  Jelly and Cake Moulds with Cylinder.  An illustration of two jelly or cake moulds both round one with a cylinder.   
  Sardine Opener.  An illustration of a device with a handle on one end is a metal pincher used to open a can.       Smoked Beef and Cabbage Cutter.  An illustration of a rectangular box with no ends in the center of the box is a metal blade laying diagonally and parallel to the surface of the box.  
   Champaigne Opener.  An illustration of a sharp curly pointed knife with a decorative handle.   
  Enamelled Porringer.  An illustration of a cup with a handle on the very edge of it.      Enamelled Saucepan.  A deep, small pan with a lid and long handle.   
  Bain Marie.  An illustration of a deep, square pan with two round rings on opposite corners.      Enamelled preserving Kettle.  An illustration of a pail with a handle   
  Oyster Knife, for Opening Roasted Oysters.  An illustration of a short bladed knife with a round hilt and a handle longer than the blade.      Knife
Sharpeners.  An illustration of two knife sharpeners one with round stones in a handle and the other with two long strips sticking out of it.              Oyster Broiler, or Toast Gridiron.  An illustration of two pieces of grill that have a handle and can be fastened shut.  
  Corkscrews.  An illustration of two different types of corkscrews one has a handle that allows you to pull the cork out once the corkscrew is screwed in the cork.      Cucumber and Vegetable
Slicer.  An illustration of a board with a handle and a metal blade laying parallel and at a diagnal angle in the board.  
  Saucepan Digester. --The great importance of the
digester, not only to poor families, but to the public in general, in producing
a larger quantity of wholesome and nourishing food, by a much cheaper method
than has ever been hitherto obtained, is a matter of such serious and
interesting consideration, that it cannot be too earnestly recommended to those
who make economy in the support of their families an object of their attention.
The chief, and indeed the only thing necessary to be done, is to direct a
proper mode of using it to advantage; and this mode is both simple and easy.
Care must be taken in filling the digester, to leave room enough for the steam
to pass off through the valve at the top of the cover. This may be done by
filling the digester only three parts full of water and bruised
bones or meat, which it is to be noticed are all to be put in
together. It must then be placed near a slow fire, so as only to simmer, and
this it must do for the space of eight or ten hours. After this has been done,
the soup is to be strained through a hair sieve or cullender, in order to
separate any bits of bones. The soup is then to be put into the digester
again, and after whatever vegetables, spices, &c., are thought
necessary are added, the whole is to be well boiled together for an hour or
two, and it will then be fit for immediate use. 
 Any thing that is to be warmed and sent to table a second time should be put
into a basin or jar, placed in hot water, which is not permitted to come
to the boiling point. If allowed to boil, the meat will harden, or the
sauce will be reduced and become thick: by avoiding these chances the
flavor will be preserved, and the viands may be warmed up more than once
without injury. The steam-apparatus now employed in most kitchens is admirably
adapted to this purpose, since the heat can be regulated to the required
temperature. 
 A spacious movable screen, large enough to completely cover the fire, lined
throughout with tin, and having shelves for the warming of plates and dishes,
should also be an appendage; and there should be an abundance of kitchen
utensils of the best kind, kept in their proper places and strictly clean.
Cleanliness is, indeed, of the first importance, and no kitchen-maid should
ever put away a metal saucepan which has been used for any other purpose than
merely boiling pure water, without scalding it thoroughly and then
drying it. 
 Every kitchen should be provided with a clock to keep the cook to her time;
also with a large and a small marble mortar for the pounding of meat,
with chopper, meat-saw, various-sized scoops for vegetables, when
required for haricos &c., paste-cutters, steak-tongs,
&c., and those insignificant, though useful little articles,
minute-glasses, to regulate the boiling of an egg; nor should a
spice-box, containing whole pepper, mace, nutmegs,
and cinnamon, be forgotten; together with various dried sweet
herbs. Scales, with weights from 1/4 oz. to 2 lbs., should be placed on the
dresser, and the weights carefully kept in regular order. A set of tin measures
with small spouts or lips, and with the contents distinctly marked upon them,
from a gallon down to half a gill, will also be found very convenient. It is
likewise well to have a set of wooden measures, from a bushel to a quarter of a
peck. 
 Let it be remembered, that, of liquid measure--    Two gills are half a pint. Two pints are one quart. Four
quarts are one gallon. 
 Of dry measure-- Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. One gallon is
half a peck. Two gallons are one peck. Four gallons are half a bushel. Eight
gallons are one bushel. About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a
common-sized teaspoon. A common tumbler holds half a pint. Four tablespoonfuls,
or half a gill, will fill a common wine-glass. Four wine-glasses
will fill a half-pint or common tumbler, or a large coffee-cup. A quart black
bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half. Of flour,
butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and pastry, a
quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound avoirdupois (sixteen
ounces). Avoirdupois is the weight designated throughout this book. Ten
eggs generally weigh one pound before they are broken. A tablespoonful
of salt or brown sugar is generally about one ounce. *  
 Sieves, of various descriptions, are very essential. Every utensil for
cookery should be of various sizes, so as to suit the quantity of which the
dishes may be composed; and each should be kept in a fixed place, as well as
washed and dried immediately after using. The cook should also be charged to
take care of jelly-bags, tapes for the collared things, &c., which, if not
perfectly scalded and kept dry, give an unpleasant flavor when next used. 
 *Mrs. Hale gives the following table, by which persons not having scales and
weights at hand may readily measure the articles wanted to form any receipt,
without the trouble of weighing. Allowance to be made for an extraordinary
dryness or moisture of the article weighed or measured.   WEIGHT AND MEASURE.
Wheat flour. . . . . . . 1 pound is. . . . . . . . 1 quart. Indian
meal. . . . . . . 1 pound, 2 oz., is. . . . 1 quart. Butter, when
soft. . . . 1 pound is. . . . . . . . 1 quart. Loaf sugar broken. . . .
1 pound is. . . . . . . . 1 quart. White sugar, powdered. . 1 pound, 1
oz., is. . . . 1 quart. Best brown sugar . . . . 1 pound, 2 oz., is. . .
. 1 quart. Eggs . . . . . . . . . . 10 eggs are . . . . . . . 1
pound. Flour. . . . . . . . . . 8 quarts are. . . . . . . 1 peck.
Flour. . . . . . . . . . 4 pecks are . . . . . . . 1 bushel. 
 
  CHAPTER XXIV. 
 LIEBIG, in his work on "The Chemistry of Food," says: "Among all the arts
known to man, there is none that enjoys a juster appreciation, and the products
of which are more universally admired, than that concerned in the preparation
of our food. Led by an instinct which has almost reached the dignity of
conscious knowledge, and by the sense of taste which protects the health, the
experienced cook, with respect to the choice, admixture, and preparation of
food, has made acquisitions surpassing all that chemical and physiological
science has done in regard to the doctrine or theory of nutrition." 
 "I do not yet despair," says another writer, "of seeing the day when the
culinary science, like others, will have its qualified professors." "The art of
cookery," another observes, "is the analeptic part of the art of physic." Dr.
Mandeville says, "Physicians should be good cooks, at least in theory." 
 Dr. Arbuthnot says--"The choice and measure of the materials of which our
body is composed--of what we take daily by pounds, is, at least, of as much
importance as what we take seldom and only by grains and spoonfuls. Count
Rumford remarks: "In what art or science could improvements be made that would
more powerfully contribute to increase the comforts and enjoyments of
mankind?" 
 A quaint writer says truly: "The stomach is every man's master;" and
Armstrong attributes to the good cook the useful knowledge:    {quote} "How best the fickle fabric to support Of mortal
man; in healthful body, how A healthful mind the longest to maintain." 
 To prevent diseases is surely better than to cure them. The French enjoy a
happy equilibrium of spirits more constantly than any other nation; Dr.
Kitchiner says, it is because "their elastic stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous
liquors, digest vigorously the food they render easily assimilable by cooking
it sufficiently; doing half the work of digestion by fire and water, till 
 {quote} "The tender morsels on the palate melt, And all the force of cookery is
felt." 
 The cardinal virtues of cookery are cleanliness, frugality, nourishment, and
palatableness. 
 The term "gourmand" or "epicure," says a distinguished writer on the
subject, is not synonymous with "glutton," who eats as long as he can sit, like
the great eater of Kent, whom Fuller places among his worthies; telling us "he
ate thirty dozen pigeons at one meal; at another, four score rabbits, and
eighteen yards of black pudding, London measure:" nor does the term epicure
suit a fastidious appetite only excited by dainties, such as the brains of
peacocks or parrots, the tongues of thrushes or nightingales, &c. It means
one who has good sense and good taste enough to relish food cooked according to
scientific principles; so prepared that the palate be not offended, and that it
be rendered easy of digestion. Thus the temperate man is the greatest epicure;
for the perfection of enjoyment depends on the perfection of the faculties of
mind and body. 
 The philosopher, Descartes, when a cavilling Marquis said: "What, do you
philosophers eat dainties?" replied, "Do you think Providence made good things
only for fools!" Boswell says, Dr. Johnson had nice discernment in the science
of cookery, and talked of good eating with uncommon satisfaction. 
 Boileau says, the Norman conqueror William, bestowed portions of land on his
favorite chief cook. The Doomsday Book records a grant to Robert Argyllon, for
the service of "making in an earthen pot, in the kitchen of our lord the king,
a mess called 'De la groute,'"--a kind of plum-porridge--on the day of the
coronation. This dish was served to king George IV., at his coronation. 
 The luxury of different ages has furnished many curiosities in cookery.
Among the ancients, a porpus and wild boar were highly esteemed, and the swan
was a dish of state; the crane was a dainty in William the Conqueror's time;
and seals, curlews, herons, bitterns, and the 
 peacock --this last, "the food of lovers and the meat
of lords"--were fashionable at baronial entertainments. The peacock was stuffed
with spices and sweet herbs, roasted and served whole; after it was dressed,
being covered with the skin and feathers, the tail spread, and the beak and
comb gilt. Some were covered with leaf-gold. These birds adorned English tables
till the beginning of the seventeenth century. 
 The pie, full of living birds, was a favorite dish, and a common joke at old
English feasts. The dwarf, Jeffrey Hudson, was served up in a cold pie about
1630, before King Charles, at the Duke of Buckingham's table. The baron of beef
was a favorite of old English hospitality. Don Anthony, of Guevara, chronicler
to Charles V., says, he saw at a feast, "a horse roasted, a cat in jelly,
lyzard in hot broth, and frogges fried, &c." 
 The Roman sauces described by Cœlus Apicius, a celebrated Roman
epicure, who wrote a curious cookery book in Latin, and invented a soup made of
the livers of a peculiar fish which sometimes sold at the rate of sixty dollars
the pound--would be hardly more palatable to us than the black broth of the
Spartans which caused the citizens of Sybaris  to
wonder no longer why the Spartans were so fearless of death. Yet one of the
receipts of Apicius required the death of three or four dozen animals. The
Esquimaux eat raw fish, and melted fat is a delicacy among Arctic natives. Many
of the northern Indians eat the intestines and blood. Tartars feed on dogs, and
some of the natives of Australia, New Holland, and other countries, were wont
to regale themselves upon ants and worms, while mice were an African delicacy.
Norwegians mixed the powdered bark of trees with meal to bake in cakes. 
 La Chapelle's 
 Nouveau Cuisinier,  published in 1748, mentions the
cooking of a turkey in the shape of a football or a hedgehog; a shoulder of
mutton in that of a beehive; an 
 entrée  of pigeons in the form of a spider or
a frog. Such whimsical harlequinade has now become old-fashioned, though the
taste for decoration remains. 
 By a strange misconception, cookery has in all ages been intrusted to
ignorant persons, who practise it without reference to those general principles
which connect it with chemistry as much as other arts are allied to that
science. Yet in the days of the patriarchs, the province of the cook, it seems,
was not a servile one. A princess would not disdain to dress the lamb her lord
had killed and brought from the flock. In Homer's time kings and princes killed
their own cattle and cooked the flesh. 
 Perhaps the march of improvement may induce professors of gastronomy to
elevate their calling by connecting its practice with the principles of
science. The brewers and distillers of the present day are philosophical
chemists, understanding the principles on which they act, and their processes
are more certain, economical, and manageable than formerly; why may not cooks
be philosophers? Why may not equal advantages be derived from the application
of science to those arts which relate to the management of solid
sustenance? 
 It has been said that the best books on cookery have been written by medical
men. 
 
  CHAPTER XXV. A GLOSSARY OF FOREIGN TERMS USED IN
COOKERY. 
 FRENCH cookery is of so diverse a nature that many volumes have already been
written upon the subject; and new modes of dressing the same things are so
constantly being invented, that we must content ourselves with merely giving a
few explanations of the terms adopted by most of our professed cooks. 
 
 Atelets.  Small silver skewers. 
 
 Baba.  A French sweet yeast cake. 
 
 Bain Marie.  A flat vessel containing boiling water,
intended to hold also other saucepans for the purpose either of cooking or
keeping their contents hot. The Bain Marie is called in the English kitchen 
 Beau Méré Pan.  This term is old,
having its origin with the alchymists, who, finding that sea-water boiled at a
high temperature, and did not evaporate so quickly, used a pan containing
sea-water; hence the term: Bain Marie; or, Sea-Water Bath. 
 
 Bard. --A slice of thin bacon fat, used for covering
the breasts of birds, the back of a hare, or any substance that requires the
assistance of fat where larding is not preferred. 
 
 Beignet,  or 
 Fritter. --Anything that is enveloped in a casing of
batter or egg, and fried. Thus we have fritters of fruit, vegetables, cream,
&c. 
 
 Blanc. --A white broth used to improve the color of
chickens, lamb, &c. 
 
 Blanch. --To set anything on the fire in  cold water, and when it boils strain it off and plunge it
into cold water.  
 
 Blanquettes. --A kind of 
 fricassée,  made of slices of white meat cut
thin, and warmed in white sauce thickened with the yolk of eggs. 
 
 Bouilli. --Beef very much boiled and served with
sauce. 
 
 Bouillon. --The common soup of France. 
 
 Bouquet. --A bunch of parsley and scallions tied up
to put in soups, &c. 
 
 Bouquet garni,  or 
 Assaisonné.  The same, with the addition of
cloves or aromatic herbs. 
 
 Bourguignote. --A ragout of truffles. 
 
 Braise. --This is a method of dressing meat, poultry,
&c., without evaporation. It is done by lining a braising pan with thin
slices of bacon, beef, or veal; upon which place whatever you may intend to 
 braise;  and also add carrots, onions, lemons, bay
leaf, herbs, pepper, and salt. 
 
 Brioche. --A French yeast cake. 
 
 Buisson (en). --A fanciful mode of dressing up
pastry, &c. 
 
 Callipash. --The glutinous meat of the upper shell of
a turtle. 
 
 Callipee. --The glutinous meat of the under shell of
a turtle. 
 
 Caramel. --Sugar boiled down until the water is
evaporated, and then formed in ornamental devices for decorating
gâteaux-baskets, &c. It is also used for coloring gravies when
reduced almost to the burning point, and then dissolved in water. Its use is
not much to the credit of the cook. 
 
 Capilotade. --A hash of poultry. 
 
 Civet. --A hash of game or wild fowl. 
 
 Compeigne. --A French sweet yeast cake, with fruit,
&c. 
 
 Compotier. --A dish in the dessert service purposely
for the compote. 
 
 Couronne (en). --To serve any prescribed articles on
a dish in the form of a crown. 
 
 Court  or 
 short, to stew. --The reduction of a sauce until it
becomes very thick. 
 
 Croutons. --Bread cut in various shapes and fried
lightly in butter or oil. 
 
 Casserole. --A rice-crust moulded in the form of a
pie; when baked, filled with a mince or 
 purée  of game, or with a 
 blanquette  of white meat. Also a stewpan. 
 
 Compote. --Stewed fruits served with syrup. There are
also compotes of pigeons and other small birds. 
 
 Consommé  is a strong clear gravy, drawn from
the long stewing of any kind of meat, to be either used as broth, or made into
soups and sauces. 
 
 Coulis,  or cullis, is a rich brown gravy commonly
used for the purpose of coloring as well as thickening and flavoring many sorts
of soups and sauces. It is made in various ways, chiefly upon a foundation of
ham and veal, slices of which are put into a closely covered stewpan, with only
a small quantity of water, and boiled over a brisk fire until the whole becomes
brown and thick. See 
 Sauces.  
 
 Croquettes. --A mince of either fish, meat, or
poultry, made very savory, with a small quantity of sauce, formed into shapes
of any kind, rolled in egg and bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. 
 
 Croustades,  or Dresden patties, made of paste or
bread baked in small moulds, and filled with mince of any kind. 
 
 Dorez. --To wash pastry, &c., with yolk of egg
well beaten. 
 
 Dorure. --Yolks of eggs well beaten. 
 
 "En papillote." --White paper is greased with oil or
butter, and then folded over a cutlet or small fish, fastening it by screwing
the paper at the edges. 
 
 Entremets. --Small ornamental dishes served in the
second and third courses. 
 
 Entrée. --A corner dish for the first course.
In large dinners the side dishes are called 
 flancs.   
 
 Financière. --An expensive, highly flavored,
mixed ragoût. 
 
 Flan. --A French custard. 
 
 Farce. --Forcemeat. 
 
 Faggot. --A small bunch of parsley and thyme and a
bay-leaf tied up. 
 
 Fricandeaux --may be made of any boned piece of veal,
in pieces of not more than two or three lbs. weight, chiefly cut from that
portion of the fillet which we have described as the thick part. It is a
frequent dish as an entrée at good tables, and requires great care to
serve in perfection. 
 
 Gûteau. --A cake or pudding. 
 
 Glaze (to). --To reduce sauces to a jelly, that they
will adhere to the meat. 
 
 Glace  or 
 Glaze. --Stock boiled down to a consistency, and used
to improve the appearance of all 
 braised  dishes; it should be warmed in the
bain-marie, and applied with a brush. 
 
 Glaze, Glace Ice,  is composed of white of egg beaten
with powdered sugar. 
 
 Godiveau. --A common veal forcemeat. 
 
 Gras (au), --means that the article is dressed with
meat gravy. 
 
 Gratin. --A layer of any article intended for this
purpose is spread over a dish that will bear the fire and is placed on a stove
or hot ashes until it burns. 
 
 Hors d'œuvre. --A small dish served during the
first course. 
 
 Lard (to). --To stick bacon, or whatever meat may be
named, into poultry, meat, &c. It is accomplished with a larding pin, one
end of which is square and one hollow. The lardon is put into this hollow, the
point is then inserted in the meat, and on being drawn through leaves the bacon
or lardon standing in its proper place. It requires practice to do this
well. 
 
 Lardon. --The pieces into which bacon or other meats
are cut for the purpose of larding. 
 
 Liaison. --A finish with yolks of eggs and cream for
ragoûts and sauces. 
 
 Madeleines. --Cakes made of the same composition as
pound cakes. 
 
 Maigre (au). --Soups, &c., dressed without
meat. 
 
 Mask. --To cover completely. 
 
 Marinade. --A liquor prepared for boiling or stewing
fish or meat in: it is sometimes used cold. 
 
 Meringue. --A very light preparation, made of sugar
and whites of eggs beaten to snow. 
 
 Matelote. --A rich stew of fish with wine. 
 
 Miroton  consists of small slices of meat cut thin,
and not larger than a crown-piece, and made into various sorts of
ragoûts; and dished up in a circular form. 
 
 Nouilles. --An Italian paste resembling macaroni, but
flat instead of being in pipes. 
 
 Panada. --Bread soaked in milk, used principally for 
 quenelles  and fine farces. 
 
 Passer. --To fry lightly. 
 
 Pûté. --A raised crust pie. 
 
 Poélée. --A light braise for white
meats; the difference between this and the braise is that in the former, the
meat, or whatever it may be, need not be so much done as the latter. 
 
 Potage. --A term for soup. 
 The 
 Pot-au-feu  is truly the foundation of all good
cookery, and of that we shall treat rather largely in our chapters on soups and
sauces. 
 
 Purée. --A culinary operation which should be
carefully attended to, and which, although known for preparing potted
meats and fish, is seldom employed by common cooks in any thing
but pea-soup. It consists in either pounding the meat or
fish in a mortar until it becomes a paste, or in stewing roots or
pulse in boiling water until they are softened into a thick pulp,
when they are passed, first through a colander, or through a purée
presser, and afterwards through a wire or hair sieve, and being thinned with
broth, may be formed into soups of various sorts.  
 
 Quenelles and Godiveaux  are different sorts of
forcemeat, composed of meat or fish, with bread and
yolk of egg, and fat of some kind; seasoned in various ways, and
either spread upon rolled meat, or formed into balls and fried as
garnish to 
 entrées,  or served separately as 
 entrées.  
 
 To make Quenelles. --When the forcemeat is
made, take two tablespoons, fill one with the meat, dip a knife in
hot water, with which smooth it over; then dip the other spoon into
boiling water, and with it remove the meat from the first spoon,
and slip it into a buttered stewpan; so on until you have the number you want:
then cover them with stock, and boil them about ten minutes, or until
firm, and they are fit for use. For small quenelles use teaspoons. 
 
 Rissole. --A mince of meat or fish,
enclosed in paste, or made up into shapes or balls in the manner of
minced collops, and used either as side-dishes, or as a garnish for stews or
hashes, now more elegantly termed 
 fricassées  and 
 ragoûts.  
 
 Roux. --A thickening for white soups or
gravy, made of flour and butter. 
 
 Salmis. --A hash made of game, which is cut up
when only half roasted; whereas a 
 hash  is made from dressed game. 
 
 Sauter. --To fry very lightly. 
 
 Sabotière  or 
 Saubetüre. --A pewter or tin vessel in which are
placed the moulds containing whatever is intended to be frozen. 
 
 Tourner  or 
 turn. --To stir a sauce; also to pare and cut
roots, vegetables, and fruits very neatly. 
 
 Tamis,  or "tammy," a strainer of thin woollen
canvas, or silk, used for straining soups and sauces. 
 
 Tourte. --A kind of tart baked in a shallow
tin. 
 
 Vanner. --To take up sauce or any other liquid
in a spoon and turn it over very quickly. 
 
 Velouté. --For heightening the flavors of
soups, made dishes, &c. 
 
 Vol-au-vent. --An extremely light puff paste,
in which are enclosed minces of sweetbread, poultry, game,
&c. 
 
  CHAPTER XXVI. CONDIMENTS. 
 THERE is one class of materials in constant use in the kitchen:--the
condiments; without these, soups, sauces, and all made dishes, would be
insipid; and the judicious application of them is essential. 
 If all kinds of condiments were of the same quality--that is, if all salt,
pepper, and mustard, &c., were alike, receipts might be given as in a
Pharmacopœia, with distinct measures for each; but as nothing differs so
much as these simple condiments, everything must be left to the palate of the
cook, and on him or her alone depends the flavor of the alimentary substances
partaken of. 
 Of all condiments, that in most general use is SALT; the health of every
individual depends upon it, and it is as much required as food or drink. Even
on those continents far away from the shores washed by the briny ocean, we find
it in springs, and in crystal globules encrusting the earth. 
 It is chemically known as chloride of sodium, being a combination of
chlorine and sodium. Its use as an antiseptic, and as a condiment, is too well
known to be repeated here. 
 Rock Salt is the unpurified salt, as dug from the mines. This is purified by
boiling, &c., and crystallized by heat. 
 Bay Salt is the coarse large crystal salt, taking its name from the salt
that formerly was made in pits by the overflow or letting in of the sea at the
head of Bays, and which was evaporated by the heat of the sun. Almost all the
fish  cured in France at the present day is done
by this kind of salt, the duty upon foreign salt being so high. 
 PEPPER, so extensively used at present in Europe, may be said to be a modern
invention. Before the introduction of pepper, many plants, such as saffron,
&c., were used, until this West Indian fruit became more general and easy
to obtain.* The plant is a climbing one 
 (piper nigrum,)  and exceedingly pretty when in
fruit. The berry is gathered with the skin or pulp around the stone, and that
which is intended for black pepper is allowed to remain thus, while for white
pepper it is blanched and rubbed until the skin comes off. In all dark sauces
use the black pepper. 
 LONG PEPPER, the fruit of the 
 piper longum,  is a plant very similiar to the
former, and, if possible, it has a more aromatic flavor than the black
pepper. 
 I doubt if pepper was known to the Romans. If so, it would have been known
in Egypt, where we find no trace of it, although some authors have considered
it as the ammonium of the ancients. 
 ALLSPICE, or, as it was formerly called, Pimenta, is another of those
productions of the climes near the Equator, which has come much into use by
Europeans. It is the fruit of the 
 pimenta vulgaris.  That which is the freshest is the
best; as the aromatic oil which it contains is not dissipated by keeping. The
essential oil it contains can be used in very small quantities in cookery, but
should not be subjected to long boiling, or it loses its flavor.   {foonote} 
 *It is a singular circumstance, that this very small fruit should be the
cause of England's possessing one of the largest portions of her dominions. In
the reign of Elizabeth, and during the war with Spain, pepper, which had then
become an article of necessity, rose to an extravagant price, and to obtain it
cheaper, the Queen granted Letters Patent to certain merchants to trade to the
East Indies, which was the origin of the present East India Company. 
 GINGER is the root of a plant, a native of the East Indies and Brazils, and
also naturalized in the West India Islands. The plant grows in moist places,
and is of a reed-like form, bearing a yellow flower. The root, when fresh,
should be of a light green, solid and heavy. A spongy or woolly root should be
avoided. The virtues of ginger chiefly consist in a volatile oil which it
possesses. This is best obtained by bruising the root, and making an infusion
in spirits of wine or boiling water in a closed bottle; or, if thinly sliced
and infused in vinegar, it is pleasant in a salad. It is usually employed in
cookery by having the root desiccated by the heat of the sun until perfectly
dry and hard, and then powdered till its aromatic oil is lost. It should be
more frequently used in cookery, and as a condiment as well as for dessert. 
 CLOVES are the buds of a flower, not arrived at maturity, of an East Indian
tree, called 
 caryophillus aromaticus.  This, in common with many
other buds of flowers of various kinds, contains a large quantity of essential
oil. It has a very pungent, aromatic smell. Its nature is stimulating. It
should not be boiled too long, or its flavor is lost in evaporation. 
 NUTMEG is the interior of a fruit belonging to a tree, a native of the
Islands of the Eastern Archipelago, called Banda, and known in botany as the 
 myristica moschata.  It is strongly aromatic, and
very volatile, and considered agreeable. It is used in powder, and not
subjected to much heat, which would cause it to lose its qualities. 
 MACE.--This is the skin which covers the shell containing the nutmeg. It is
cut into small pieces and dried. This is more frequently used in cookery than
the nutmeg, as its essential oil and aromatic flavor are not so soon
evaporated. 
 CAYENNE is the dried pod of a well-  known
plant, the capsicum, now so often reared in hot-houses. It is a native of the
East and West Indies, and South America. It is of a very pungent nature, and a
strongly acrid flavor. The best is of an orange color. There are several kinds
of capsicums; the 
 capsicum annuum  or annual capsicum; the 
 capsicum grossum,  or hell pepper; and the 
 capsicum cerasiforme,  or cherry pepper. The pods of
these are frequently pickled. The essence of cayenne, by infusing in alcohol,
is a very excellent seasoning. 
 CINNAMON is the under-bark of a tree, the 
 laurus cinnamomum,  a species of bay, with leaves
like laurel, found in many East India Islands, but chiefly in Ceylon. It
possesses a very fine aromatic flavor and smell. The essential oil, when
extracted, is better to use than the bark itself. 
 This tree bears a fruit similar in shape to the acorn, but smaller. It has
neither smell nor taste; but, boiled in water, yields an oil which, on becoming
cold, is as hard as tallow: it is used as an ointment, and also to burn. The
outside of the root of this tree yields camphor and oil of camphor. 
 CASSIA is also a bark of a similar kind of tree to the cinnamon; the 
 laurus cassia.  It does not contain so much flavor as
cinnamon; but the aromatic qualities are very similar. Its oil is often sold
for that of cinnamon. 
 CASSIA BUDS are the pods of the seed of the cinnamon tree. They contain an
oil equal in flavor and pungency to the cinnamon. They are not often used in
cookery, their value not being generally known. 
 MUSTARD is the powder of the seed of the plant, the 
 sinapis nigra.  It grows wild in many places, and can
be cultivated in almost any soil. It is of a strong, pungent nature, and is
difficult to concentrate. It should be mixed with cold water and salt. It
derives its name from the French 
 moutarde,  who derive it from the Latin of 
 multum ardet,  which became corrupted into 
 moult arde.  In France they prepare it in a variety
of ways. Mustard is a condiment easily adulterated; and particular care should
be used in its selection. 
 ONIONS, a bulbous root, so much used in cookery, is a native of this
country. By some it is eaten in the raw state; and if partaken of freely, its
effects pervade the whole system, and the person who uses them may be known at
some distance, from the peculiar odor which belongs to the root. Its moderate
use is wholesome. It is also good against many diseases of the skin; but should
never be eaten too freely by weak stomachs. There are several sorts. The
common, called the 
 allium cepa;  the GARLIC, 
 allium stavium;  the SHALOT, 
 allium ascalonicum;  the LEEK, the 
 allium porrum;  the ROCAMBOLE, the 
 allium scordoprasum;  the CHIVE, the 
 allium chœnoprasum.  The manner of using them
is described briefly in the various receipts. 
 Onions have been used in cookery from a very early period; and in Spain and
Portugal form the principal food of the lower classes--being, from the nature
of the climate, much milder than in this country. 
 The next articles among the condiments are the herbs; among these, MARJORAM
is that most in use; it is an herb which contains a large quantity of what may
be called essential oil, which is extracted in cooking, and imparts its flavor
to the viands in which it may be used. There are several kinds of marjoram in
use, but that known as the pot marjoram, 
 origanum onites,  when well cultivated, is the best
for general use; there is the sweet marjoram, 
 origanum marjorana;  the winter sweet marjoram, 
 origanum heracloticum;  and the common marjoram, 
 origanum vulgare.  The essence of this herb may be
used in  cookery; the more common plan is to dry
it for use, but it should be used fresh when it can be procured. 
 SAVORY.--There are two kinds, the winter and summer; the latter contains the
most flavor--it can be easily dried and bottled for keeping. 
 BASIL is also an herb in great use; it grows to great perfection if well
cultivated. Its aromatic smell is very similar to cloves: there are two kinds,
the sweet basil, 
 ocymum basilicum;  and the least basil, 
 ocymum minimum.  The first has the best flavor and
smell. 
 THYME.--There are two, the lemon, 
 thymus citriodorus,  and the common thyme, 
 thymus vulgaris;  the first is the best to use in all
dishes wherever this herb is required. 
 PENNYROYAL is not much in use in cookery, but can be used where mint
cannot be had. 
 MINT.--Spearmint or common mint is that most in use; it
should never be used in large quantities. Some of it infused in vinegar,
and the vinegar afterwards used with a salad, gives a fine flavor and a
novelty to that dish, and it is used in vinegar with lamb. 
 SAGE is an important herb, and by many considered an agreeable
condiment; there are several kinds; that whose leaves have a purple tinge is
considered best for culinary use. 
 PARSLEY, although at present so prominent in use in our kitchens, was
unknown to our forefathers; it is only within a century that it has become so
general: it was introduced into England from Italy. There are three varieties,
the common or plain-leaved, the curled or double-leaved, and the broad-leaved;
the curled is the best-looking, but has not so much flavor as the common; the
broad-leaved is used for its root, which is excellent cut up thinly in soup,
&c. It may be obtained all the year. To keep it well, it should be dried
and cut up, and placed in well corked bottles, but should only be used when
fresh cannot be procured. 
 TARRAGON is not so much used as it ought to be; if used more in soup,
instead of the stronger herbs, it would be liked; but great care must be
observed, as its aromatic qualities are quickly dissipated by heat. It is a
native of the north of Europe, and known in botany as the 
 artemisia dracunculus.  
 CLARY is a plant of the sage kind; its leaves are sometimes
used to flavor soups, and it is liked by a few. 
 FENNEL may be used often with advantage; it is, however, rarely used
but with fish. 
 CELERY, now grown to such perfection, is the cultivated wild plant
known as smallage. Celery is a great deal used in cookery, but it should
not be subjected to too long boiling; if its flavor is required, and no root to
be obtained, the seed of the 
 smallage  can be used instead. It is generally
supposed that the roots and leaves of smallage are poisonous; we would not
recommend them to be used, as the seed can always be obtained, and the
flavor is finer. The salts of celery is a modern improvement, and a
great addition to our culinary condiments. 
 BORAGE is not much used in cookery; its flavor is slightly bitter,
and it is sometimes used to flavor ale, cider, &c., for a
summer drink. 
 HORSE-RADISH is the root of a plant; the aroma which it contains is
quickly dissipated by heat--it is therefore used in a raw state by being
grated; an essence may be obtained by infusion with spirits of wine,
which, added to mustard after it is made, gives it an agreeable
flavor. 
 CHERVIL is getting more into use every day; its flavor is exceedingly
pleasant,  and can be employed in soups and
salads, especially in made dishes, with the greatest advantage. 
 CAPERS are the buds of a small trailing shrub, a native of the
south of Europe; those grown on the Rock of Gibraltar are considered the finest
in the world. They are very excellent with almost all boiled meats,
fish, and salads. 
 BROOM BUDS, when pickled, sometimes replace capers. 
 NASTURTIUMS are sometimes used in the place of capers, being
pickled in the same way, but they have not the least resemblance; they may be
used for salads. The flower of the nasturtium is a very pretty
decoration for boiled fish and salads. 
 BARBERRIES are the fruit of a plant; some centuries since, they
appear to have been often used, but more modern importations have superseded
them; they have a very acid flavor, and, if pickled, could enter into the
composition of many dishes, and also make a good preserve. 
 GHERKINS are the young cucumber, or often the fruit of
the uncultivated plant; they are almost always pickled, and are an elegant
addition to all salads and many entrées. 
 BEET-ROOT is a root of a plant which of late years has been
extensively cultivated for the purpose of feeding cattle; the color which it
possesses is easily extracted, for the purpose of tinting various articles
employed in cookery. When boiled, it is a beautiful addition to every
salad. 
 MUSHROOMS are greatly used in domestic cookery, and are a general
favorite; their liquor, when extracted with salt, becomes a condiment
known under the name of 
 Ketchup,  very extensively employed in
cookery; this may be considered wholesome, as it is known to facilitate the
digestion. The largest are the best to produce the ketchup, and the
small button ones to use in dishes; they should be nicely trimmed, and put into
a jar with lemon-juice to blanch them; should be submitted to very
little heat, or their delicacy will be lost, and nothing but a tough substance
left to eat. 
 TRUFFLE is, without doubt, a modern introduction. So late as the year
1720, in the regency of Louis XV., we first hear of its being used, when
Dubois, the minister, introduced it at his dinners, the Duke of Orleans gave it
to his mistresses, and the gallants of the day brought it into notice in their
nocturnal repasts. 
 It was at this period that the science of cookery made such rapid
improvement in France, and when extravagance in the preparation of the repasts
was carried to the highest point; this was a period when 
 "non ex pane solo vivit homo."  Many of the sauces
first discovered at that period have descended to the present day--such as
Soubise and Bechamel, named after the noblemen who first partook of them. Then
it was that the celebrated "Dinde aux Truffes" (turkey with
truffles) first made its appearance. Since this period, the
truffle has been considered the "to kalon" of condiments, and as the
indispensable ornament of all banquets; or, as Brillat Savarin says, 
 "La truffe est le diamant de la cuisine."  
 Within the last half century, the place (Perigord) which produces the finest
of these roots, produced the first of diplomatists--namely, Talleyrand, who was
at the same time a great gourmet. The locality may have had its influence;
certain it is he would never give a decision upon any momentous question until
after dinner, and having partaken of his favorite dish, Truffe aux Vin de
Champagne. 
 They are a species of fungus, tube, or root, generally found within a few
inches of the surface of the earth, and under oak trees; known also as
the subterranean "puff-ball," 
 tuba cibarium.  The best are supposed to come from
"Perigord,"  the next from Angoulême--these
are black; the white come from Piedmont, and the Carolinas; they ought
to be eaten fresh. On the European continent, they are found by means of dogs
and pigs, trained on purpose. 
 They should not be subjected to too long boiling, as the aroma is very
volatile. 
 BAY is the leaf of a species of laurel, but in using it care must be taken
that the leaf of the bay-laurel, or cherry-laurel, 
 (prunus laurocerasus,)  is not used for it, as it
contains prussic acid. This is a common evergreen in the southern
States. The bay or sweet bay, 
 (laurus nobilis,)  an evergreen of the South
of Europe, may be used to great advantage in cookery, as it imparts an
agreeable and aromatic flavor, differing very widely from any spices
that can be used for the same purposes. It is cultivated extensively in
gardens, and should be used according to the directions given in the
receipts. 
 SAFFRON was formerly--that is, in the fourteenth century--much used
in cookery in Europe. It has bulbous roots, like the onion and flowers;
the fibres grow from the bottom of the bulb, having roots with coats or
skin one over the other, and bears naked flowers without stem. At
present it is only used in the kitchen for the purpose of coloring. In
Portugal, Spain, and Turkey, it is used at the present day to a great
extent. 
 ANGELICA, a condiment much used in the confectionery department of
the kitchen, is the stalk of a plant like celery, which grows in
gardens, and is also found wild. When gathered, it is dried, preserved, and
candied. Rouen, in France, is very celebrated for it. 
 VANILLA is used chiefly to impart flavor to various articles in
confectionery; it has also a very agreeable smell, which has caused it to be
used in scenting different perfumes, and thus diminished its use in the
kitchen. It is the produce of a climbing plant like ivy, having a large leaf
and black flower, which leaves a 
 pod  containing black peas; the form of the
pod is like a scimitar, from which it takes its name, being in Spanish 
 vargarila.  
 When covered with tin-foil, and kept in a moist place, it will become
covered with flakes of silver. It denotes the best quality, and is fit for use;
it will do to be infused several times.  
 SUGAR is the concentrated juice of a plant which grows in hot
climates, and is also to be obtained from other trees and vegetables,
especially from beet-root. It is used very extensively in cookery,
imparting a mellow flavor to all dishes; it is of an antiseptic nature, and
ought to be employed more abundantly in preserving animal substances than it
is. This condiment was unknown to the ancients, who employed honey in
place of it. 
 ORANGE is the fruit of a tree originally a native of China,
but now grown extensively in all warm climates. The juice of this
fruit is a sweet acid, differing greatly in flavor from the
lemon; its peel is of use in cookery. The Seville and Malta
oranges are a variety of this fruit. 
 ORANGE-FLOWER, a distillation from the flower, is used a great deal
in cookery. 
 VERJUICE is the juice of a grape of that name, and on the
European continent was used to a great extent, until the introduction of the
lemon. The grape is gathered unripe, pressed, allowed to ferment,
and then put into large vats to mature; the older it is, the better the flavor.
It enters into the composition of several of the sauces in use at the present
day; if pure, it may be preferable for several dishes to vinegar. 
 OLIVE is a fruit not much used in cookery; it grows on a low
tree with long narrow leaves, rough underneath; the fruit contains a
long and small kernel; the fruit, when pressed, yields the  oil known as olive oil. This is a most
valuable article in cookery; it ought to be tasteless and inodorous, but when
long exposed to the air becomes rank and unfit for use. 
 ARROW-ROOT is the powder of the root of a tree growing in very warm
and moist climates, of about two to three feet in height, known in
botany as the 
 maranta arundinarea.  In some countries, the
flour of this root is mixed with that of Indian corn and makes
excellent bread. It is produced in the same way as the starch
from potatoes. 
 TAPIOCA is also a starch, produced from the roots of a
Brazilian plant called Cassava, a very elegant but poisonous plant, with
beautiful white and pink flowers. It is now in general use, as it is
found, when mixed with a little wine or spirits, to be an
excellent stimulant to an invalid, without possessing any heating qualities. It
should be well washed in water, and boiled until it becomes transparent,
when it should be well stirred, and whatever is required to be mixed with it
should be added. It will, when mixed with other flour, make very good
bread. 
 SALSOP is another root of a plant called 
 orchis morio,  a native of the East, where it is used
as an article of food to a great extent; it is reduced to powder, and readily
dissolves in boiling water. It is a light, pleasant drink, and, to
persons of a feverish constitution, is exceedingly wholesome. 
 SAGO is another of these starches, similar to Tapioca, made
from the pith of the palm-tree, a native of the Indies. It is prepared
precisely in the same way as Tapioca. 
 SOY is obtained from the seed or fruit of an Indian
plant, called 
 dolichos soja,  or 
 soya;  it is made like ketchup; it enters
greatly into use in the variety of sauces that are made for the table, being of
a very strong, sweet-bitter taste; it should be used in moderation in
cookery. 
 CHETNEY is a production of the East Indies, which, of late years, has come
considerably into use; it is made by mixing together a variety of
fruits, and allowing them to ferment until they become acid: some
spices are then mixed with them--and it is bottled for use; the older it
is, the better it becomes. That made in the Vale of Cashmere is considered the
best. 
 CURRY-POWDER is another of those Indian condiments which have
latterly come much into use, and it is only to be regretted that it is not
cheaper, to allow it to be more generally used, as it is one of those
stimulating condiments which would be invaluable to the poor; its use would
prevent the habit of taking other stimulants which produce intoxication. 
 LEMON is the fruit of a tree, a native of the South of Europe and
the Indies; it is a most valuable production, not only for cookery, but for the
health of the human race. Its juice, when diluted with water, and
sweetened, makes a most refreshing and wholesome drink. The peel contains an
essential oil, which imparts a strong pungent flavor to those dishes to
which it is added. The true flavor of this fruit can only be had when
fresh and ripe. In the time of Henry VIII., this fruit was a great
rarity, and was partaken of at dessert with a quantity of sugar mixed
with it. 
 The LIME is a species of lemon, the juice of which is
more acid. 
 The CITRON is also another species; the juice is sweeter. 
 VINEGAR derives its name from the French 
 vin aigre,  or sour wine, and is known in
chemistry as acetic acid. This antiseptic liquor can be produced from all
herbs, plants, vegetables, and fruits, which produce
sugar, and even that singular production of nature known as
honey, and of which the juices will go  into fermentation. These juices, when first
expressed, are called wine, or syrup; they undergo a fermentation
known as the 
 vinous,  after which, when exposed to a certain
degree of heat, they enter into the acetous fermentation, and produce that acid
pungent liquor known as vinegar. Of late years, it has also been
produced by the distillation of wood, more particularly oak, and known
as 
 pyroligneous acid,  which is intensely acid, and
highly stimulating. When employed in cookery, it should be used judiciously,
and with great care. The best vinegar is that which contains the least
vegetable matter, such as coloring, &c., and which has the strongest acid
taste, without being hot. 
 The different flavored vinegars may be made by infusion, without the aid of
heat, of the different substances from which the flavor is required. 
 
  CHAPTER XXVII. RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 
 A FEW simple general directions, on a subject of so much importance to
family and individual comfort as cooking, will be found useful, even though
there be some repetition in subsequent instructions. 
 The kitchen should be furnished with long and round tables; a dresser with
shelves serving as a plate rack; closets or cupboards, common chairs, benches,
wooden stools and sinks. Towel rollers, plate warmers, a weighing machine,
speaking tubes, a dumb waiter, a refrigerator, hot water dishes, and dish
covers of wire gauze, are also among the indispensables. The fireplace should
have plenty of light. 
 The chief object of cookery is to make the meat tender and easy of
digestion, without depriving it of its juices. Solid food, especially plain
roast or boiled meat, requires to be well adapted to the digestive powers; for
it is trying to many constitutions, and health is often injured by dining upon
improperly cooked "plain joints." 
 Butcher's meat,  when brought from market, should be
examined, trimmed, and wiped clean; sprinkled in summer with a little salt and
pepper, and hung up. Mutton and veal must be taken down and wiped each day.
Venison is hung some time before cooking, and should be wiped dry and dredged
with ginger or pepper, to prevent the fly from settling on it; the dredging
wiped off before cooking. We will take up the simple culinary processes in
turn. 
 
 Boiling. --This is seldom done properly; the error
most common among American cooks is that of boiling meat fast over a strong
fire, which renders it hard and nearly tasteless; whereas, a gentle simmering
for nearly double the time, with half the quantity of fuel and water, will
better accomplish the purpose. 
 For instance: the most common, and almost universal dish throughout France,
is a large piece of plainly boiled fresh beef, from which the soup--or 
 "potage, "  as it is there called--has been partly
made, and which is separately served up as 
 "bouilli"  accompanied by strong gravy and minced
vegetables, or stewed cabbage. Now this, as constantly dressed in the French
mode, is ever delicate both in fibre and flavor; while, in the English manner
of boiling it, it is always hard and insipid. The reason of which, as explained
by that celebrated cook, Carême, who superintended the kitchen of His
Majesty George IV., is this:--"The meat, instead of being put down to boil, as
in the English method, is in France put in the pot with the usual quantity of
cold water, and placed at the corner of the fireplace, where, slowly becoming
hot, the heat gradually swells the muscular fibres of the beef, dissolving the
gelatinous substances therein contained, and disengaging that portion  which chemists term 'osmazome,' and which imparts
savor to the flesh--thus both rendering the meat tender and palatable, and the
broth relishing and nutritive; while, on the contrary, if the pot be
inconsiderately put upon too quick a fire, the boiling is precipitated, the
fibre coagulates and hardens, the osmazome is hindered from disengaging itself,
and thus nothing is obtained but a piece of tough meat, and a broth without
taste or succulence." 
 Meat, salted or fresh, should be put first into 
 cold  water just sufficient to cover it; to be warmed
gradually and renewed, as it wastes away, with hot water. The scum must be
skimmed off as fast as it rises. As soon as the water boils, the kettle should
be taken off the fire, but placed near enough to keep it simmering, which it
will do with little heat. The allowance of time in the summer is eighteen or
twenty minutes to each pound; in winter rather more. The time of reckoning must
begin when the water 
 boils.  Salt meats require very slow simmering, and
must have more time. Allowance must also be made for age. 
 The nice look of every thing boiled depends on skimming the pot well. If let
alone, the scum boils down and sticks to the meat, giving it a coarse and
uncleanly appearance. A little cold water and salt thrown in will help to bring
up the scum. It is not necessary to wrap the meat in a cloth. Less heat is
required to keep liquids boiling in copper and iron, than in tin saucepans. 
 Dried or salted fish and meats require soaking in cold water before
boiling. 
 Meat and poultry will lose their flavor and firmness, if left in the water
after they are done; as will also fish, which will break to pieces. 
 The water in which fish, meat, or poultry has been boiled, should be saved;
this pot-liquor, as it is called, may be made into soup. 
 Remember to heat the water containing the meat, very slowly; a joint of ten
pounds' weight should not boil in less than forty minutes. The more slowly it
simmers afterwards, the tenderer, plumper, and whiter it will be. 
 An experienced cook placed a thermometer in water in that state which cooks
call gently simmering; the heat was 212° viz., equal to the strongest
boiling. Two mutton chops were covered with cold water; one was boiled on a
gallop, the other simmering gently for three-quarters of an hour; the flavor of
the 
 simmered  chop was decidedly superior; the liquor was
more savory, and when cold had more fat on its surface. The chop boiled quickly
was hard and insipid. 
 Take care that the covers of your boiling pots fit closely, and only remove
them for skimming. If exposed to the smoke the meat will have a bad taste. 
 The less water the better, so that the joint is covered; a quart of water is
generally allowed to a pound. As the water is diminished by evaporation, fresh
boiling water may be poured into the saucepan. 
 Beef and mutton may be a little underdone; but lamb, pork, and veal, are
uneatable unless thoroughly boiled. 
 A fishdrainer, four skewers, or a soup plate, wrong side upwards, laid on
the bottom of the boiling pot, will prevent the lower side of the meat from
being overdone, or burnt by sticking. 
 The broth of every joint may be made into savory soup. 
 Meat loses in cooking from one-fifth to one-third of its weight. Boiling is
the more economical way of cooking, if the broth be used. One pound a day for
each person in the family is a liberal allowance for dinner. 
 The sauces sent to table with boiled meat must be served in boats, not
poured over it. 
 
 Roasting. --The first preparation must  be to see that the spit is cleaned with sand and water. It
should be wiped while hot, as soon as meat is drawn from it, and scoured always
before use. Joint the meat properly for the convenience of the carver, and
balance it evenly on the spit, that its motion may be regular and the fire
operate equally on each part of it. Use balance skewers, if necessary, and do
not run the spit through the prime part of the joint. Take care that the meat
has been kept long enough to be tender. A leg of mutton should never be
spitted, as the spit lets out the gravy, and leaves an unsightly perforation
just as you are cutting into the pope's eye. 
 Roast meat by the radiant heat of a clear, glowing fire, otherwise it is
baked. The "old English roast beef" was not done in an oven. 
 The Paschal lamb among the Jews, was roasted whole; among eastern nations
sheep are thus brought to table; but it is not done among us, except when pigs,
with apples in their mouths, grace the board at country taverns, at some Fourth
of July celebration. 
 Put the joint to roast when the fire is newly made up, that the heat may
increase by degrees; proportion the fire to the size of the joint, making it a
few inches longer. What would roast a sirloin will burn up a smaller piece.
Clear the fire of smoky coals before the joint is put down. The distance from
the fire is mentioned by Webster as from nine to thirteen inches; by Kitchiner,
from ten to fourteen. It should be put at the furthest point at first. The fat
parts should have paper skewered or tied over them, or be covered with a coarse
paste of flour and water, fastened on by paper and a string, and taken off in
time to brown and froth the meat. Fat meat requires more roasting than lean. In
roasting by 
 a string,  pass a skewer through each end of the
joint, and turn it bottom upwards, that the gravy may flow to each part. 
 If the joint is thicker at one end than the other, place the spit slanting,
the thickest part nearest the fire. Be careful not to put meat too near the
fire at first; and the larger the joint the farther off it must be kept; if
once scorched, the outside will become hard, and the fire will not penetrate
the interior. 
 Mrs. Hale says: In stirring the fire, be careful to remove the dripping-pan,
else dust and ashes may fall in. On no account let the fire get dull and low,
as a strong heat is requisite to brown the meat. 
 A thin joint requires a brisk fire; a large joint, a strong, sound and even
fire. When steam rises from the meat, it is done. 
 Large joints should be put at a moderate distance from the fire, and
gradually brought nearer; else the meat will be overdone half way through the
joint, and be nearly raw at the bone. 
 Such meat as is not very fat should have paper placed over it, to prevent it
from being scorched. 
 Do not sprinkle the meat with salt when first put down, as the salt draws
out the gravy. 
 Old meats require more cooking than young. The longer the meat has been
killed, the less time it requires to roast it. Very fat meat requires more time
than usual. 
 The general rule is to allow fifteen minutes to a pound for roasting with a
good fire, and ten or twenty minutes over, as the family like it well done or
not. 
 Kitchiner says: "Slow roasting is equally important with slow boiling."
There should be a meat-screen to guard it from currents of air. Reckon the time
to the moment the roast will be eaten--allowing for the previous courses. If a
joint stands after roasting, it will not be "done to a turn." Its size and age,
the weather, the fire, the degree of attention, and many other circumstances,
have to be  considered, and make this process very
difficult to perform in perfection. 
 When the joint is half done, stir up the fire thoroughly. When it is
saturated with heat, steam will begin to rise. 
 
 To Baste  roast meat, is to moisten it while
before the fire, to prevent the surface from being scorched. Meat should
be basted at first every ten minutes, and afterwards more frequently.
Beef and mutton may be basted with their own dripping.
Veal and poultry require an addition of butter, suet, or
dripping. Some meats are basted with flavored material: claret,
sweet-herbs and butter being used for mutton and
lamb. For a pig, cream and melted butter are
recommended. For veal and other white meats, a basting is made of
the yolk of eggs, grated biscuits, and the juice of an
orange. Butter, clarified suet, and drippings, are
used commonly for roast meat. 
 
 To Brown Meat. --Make the fire brisker when
the joint is half done, or add a glaze to improve the appearance. 
 
 To Froth it. --Dredge the whole joint lightly with
flour, when sufficiently roasted, and immediately baste it with
butter or dripping. Stir the fire, and in three minutes take down and
dish the meat. Use butter to froth poultry or lamb. The
process plumps up the skin, and improves its appearance. Do not use too
much flour; the meat should have a light varnish of froth, not a
covering of paste. 
 
 Dredgings  are of flour simply, or
flour and grated bread; or sweet herbs dried, powdered and
mixed with flour; or powdered sugar mixed with pounded
cinnamon and grated bread; or dried and pounded lemon peel
mixed with flour; or fennel, or coriander seed,
cinnamon and sugar, powdered and mixed with grated
bread. 
 
 Dripping  is the fat which drops from roasting
meat, and is used in frying, basting, or making plain pastry. When a
joint of beef is roasted, pour the melted fat into a basin of
cold, clean water; the heavy particles sink to the bottom; the melted
fat floats, and when cold, forms a clear cake of fat, fit for use
several days in cool weather. Dripping that has been used for frying (unless
fish or pork has been fried in it) may be clarified in this way,
for use a second time. Beef suet should be slowly melted, and passed
through a sieve into cold water; when caked it may be put into a jar,
and kept in a cool place. 
 
 The Skimmings of Soups and Gravies --called 
 "top-pot, " --is used by French cooks with
flour, to thicken gravies and soups, and by some for frying. 
 
 French Cooking. --French cooks subject their
meats to a gradual long continued action of heat, making the fibre
perfectly tender. The English and Americans cook them too fast; the French
would pronounce such food only fit for barbarians. Another peculiarity of
French cooking is the variety of flavors imparted to meat. A great
number of dishes are prepared from a few original substances, and the addition
of a particular sauce gives a name to the dish. In our cooking, the
flavor peculiar to each meat is preserved, and no condiment is suffered
to overpower it. French dishes are more sightly; light and elegant dishes, not
ponderous masses, tempt the appetite. The French cooking is also more
economical. Nothing is wasted; and many ingredients are brought into use which
we would cast aside as useless. 
 
 Braising  is an important part of the art of cooking,
and, like the sauté, belongs entirely to the French school from which it
takes its name, 
 braise  being the remains of wood burnt in the oven,
or live charcoal: this plan of cookery requires the action of the fire
under and over the braising pan, which is air-tight, in order that the aromatic
flavor arising  from its contents may be imbibed
by the meat or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by
epicures. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic society which was
formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to benefit and improve the art
of cookery, and who offered a reward of a silver gridiron to any culinary
artist who would discover a new mode of dressing a turkey. Although a
gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be used, yet a young artist named La
Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed his imagination to quite a different
mode, and used the pan instead of the gridiron, and thus composed the braise,
which was unanimously approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and
epicurean body, who awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to do
it slowly, taking care that the ingredients are well proportioned. Put the
meat you would braise into a stewpan, and cover it with thick slices of
fat bacon; then lay round it six or eight onions, a fagot of
sweet herbs, some celery, and, if to be brown, some thick slices
of carrots, and trimmings of any fresh meat-bones you have, with
a pint and a half of water, or the same quantity of stock,
according to what the meat is, and add seasoning. Lay on a sheet
of paper, cover the pan close, and set it over a slow stove; it will
require two or three hours, as its size and quality may direct. Then strain the
gravy; keep the meat quite hot; take the fat off by
plunging the basin into cold water, which will cause the fat to
coagulate; and boil it as quickly as you can till it thickens. If, however, you
wish the gravy to adhere to the meat, it must be still further
thickened; then with a brush kept for the purpose do over the meat, and
if that has been larded, put it into the oven for a few minutes. This is called
"glazing," and is much in use for made-dishes. 
 
 A Braising Pan  is a sort of oblong kettle, with a
bordered lid on which coals or ashes may be put. The lid should
closely fit the pan. 
 
 Glazing  is strong gravy, boiled quickly till
thick; and it is put on meat with a brush. Hams, tongues,
and stewed beef may be glazed. 
 
 Jerked Beef  is made by cutting it into thin
slices, dipping them into salt or sea water, and drying them in
the sun. This is done in the West Indies. 
 
 Broiling. --The gridiron must be kept perfectly clean
and bright; always wiped when hot after use, and rubbed just before the
meat is laid on it with clean fat or suet. The bars must
be thoroughly hot, but not so as to burn. They should be concave, and terminate
in a trough to catch the gravy. The fire must be clear and glowing,
especially for a beefsteak, for which the passage in Macbeth is a good
direction. "When 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly."
Mutton chops do not require quite so brisk a fire. If the article to be
broiled is thick, it must be warmed through more gradually. The broiling must
be done as quickly as possible, to avoid drying up the juices and
hardening the fibre of meat. Beef and mutton require a
hotter fire than pork or veal, poultry, or fish. Let the
steak be uniformly thick; beefsteaks not more than half an inch
thick; mutton a little thicker. 
 Do not sprinkle the steak with salt before, or while broiling.
It draws out the gravy. Pepper may be used. Do not turn the
steaks with a fork, but with a small tongs. 
 A charcoal fire is convenient for broiling. When the chops are placed
on the gridiron, set the dish to heat in which they are to be served, and send
to table as hot as possible. 
 Soyer says: "As regards the thickness of the meat to be broiled, that
depends in a great measure on the intensity  of
the fire, but the quicker the better, and also the sooner it is eaten after
taken from the fire the better it will be. I have latterly, in broiling
rump-steaks, added that which, by a great many, is considered an
improvement; it is, on turning them the last time, to dredge them out of a
dredger with fine holes, in which have been placed four table-spoonfuls of fine
biscuit or rusk-powder, one tablespoonful of salt, one
teaspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of either eschalot-powder
or mushroom-powder, or finely pulverized stalks of celery, well
mixed together, and the steak to be placed in a very hot dish, with a
little mushroom-catsup, and a small piece of butter, and served
immediately." 
 
 Frying. --Though a convenient mode of cooking, this
is seldom done well. It is to roast quickly, or scorch meat, &c., in
fat in an iron pan. If little fat is used, it is called
sautéing. The pan should be flat and thick-bottomed, with perpendicular
sides. Dripping, oil, butter, fresh lard, or clarified
suet--perfectly clean, fresh and sweet, must, when melted, cover the
bottom of the pan; when this is heated sufficiently, the meat or
fish must be put in and turned frequently, from one side to the other.
When nearly done, they may be browned by being pressed firmly against the
bottom of the pan. 
 Be careful that the fat or oil is fresh, clean, and free from
salt, else what you fry in it will be of bad color and flavor;
salt will prevent it from browning. 
 Fat or oil, to be used again, should be strained through a
sieve before it is set aside. 
 Fat becomes richer from having meat fried in it, and may be
used repeatedly; but the fat that has been used for fish cannot
be used again for meat. 
 To prepare crumbs for frying, dry thoroughly in a warm oven, or before the
fire, any waste pieces of bread; then pound them in a mortar and sift
them, and put them away till wanted. This is much better than grating
bread as it is needed, or using oatmeal, &c. 
 When you wish fried things to look as well as possible, do them 
 twice  over with egg and crumbs. 
 If eggs be very dear, a little flour and water may be
substituted for them in preparing fish to fry. 
 In frying use a slice to lift the articles in and out of the pan, and drain
them. 
 To make batter for frying: melt two ounces of butter in a little
warm water, and pour it upon half-a-pound of flour; stir it and
add water enough to form a batter, thick enough to adhere to whatever is
put into it; but it should run freely: add some salt and the beaten
whites of two eggs. 
 A small shallow frying-pan, or 
 sauté -pan, as it is called, is very useful to
fry articles to be stewed: this method differs from common frying, as it only
requires butter enough to keep the article from sticking to the pan and
burning. 
 The fire for frying should be free from smoky coals, sharp, and even.
Charcoal makes the best frying fire. 
 The fat should be carefully drained from all fried articles; indeed,
they should be so dry as scarcely to soil a cloth. Fish is best drained
by wrapping it in soft whitey-brown paper, by which it will so dry as
not to soil the napkin upon which it is served. 
 The great secret in frying is to know when the fat is of a proper
heat. Put nothing in till it has done hissing, and is still. Or throw a small
bit of bread into the pan; if it fries crisp, the fat is ready;
if it burns, too hot. Whatever is fried in fat not heated enough, will
be pale and sodden. Fish should be crisp and dry in a few minutes after
it is out of the pan; when it is not so, dry it on a cloth before the fire. 
 
 Baking. --Baking is a very common and convenient mode
of dressing a dinner  in small families, and much
used in these United States. The southern cook will often stand in the midst of
a circle of portable ovens, placed on the brick floor of the kitchen, which is
usually at some distance from the dwelling-house. 
 Legs of mutton and pork, fillets of veal, and many
other joints, will bake nicely if inclined to be fat; if lean, they will
not taste well, but will shrivel up and lose much in weight. 
 A pig, geese and ducks, a buttock, leg or
shin of beef, a ham, oxcheek, and various kinds of
fish, make very nice baked dishes. The oven in preparing all kinds of
bread and farinaceous food, is indispensable. 
 
 Stewing. --All articles to be stewed should first be
boiled gently, then skimmed and set aside in an even heat: on this account,
charcoal makes the best fire for stewing. 
 All stews, or meat dressed a second time, should be only simmered, as
the meat should only be made hot through. 
 A stewpan is the most advantageous vessel in which stews, hashes, soups, or
gravies, can be made; indeed, for all purposes of boiling, a stewpan is
preferable to a deep saucepan, as, in the former, the articles are exposed to
more even heat than when they are placed one above another in the saucepan, and
are likely to be broken in stirring. 
 The best stewpans are made of copper or iron; they should be kept covered as
much as possible, unless you wish to reduce the gravy. 
 Be careful not to fry in a stewpan; or if so, with great care, and
sufficient butter to save the tinning from melting. 
 Most of the directions for making soups and gravies apply also to
this branch of cookery. 
 
 Poëling. --Put into a stewpan with two pounds of
veal, a pound of beef suet, one of butter, one of very
fat bacon, all cut up; fry them till the veal becomes
white; put in three pints of boiling water, a handful of
salt, a few sprigs of thyme, a bay leaf, an onion
stuck with cloves, and a bundle of parsley and green
onions. Boil the whole gently till the onion is done, strain it
through a sieve, and set it by for use. 
 Poële  will keep for a week, and will give
relish and whiteness to everything boiled in it. Do not boil any lean of
bacon; it will give a red color from the saltpetre. Meat
in poëling must be under-done. 
 
 Larding. --Have ready larding-pins of different
sizes, according to the article to be done; cut slices of bacon into
bits of a proper length, quite smooth, and put on a larding-needle to suit it,
with which pierce the skin and a very little of the meat, leaving
the bacon in, and the two ends of equal length outwards. Lard in
rows the size you think fit. 
 The same effect with regard to flavor, may be produced by raising the
skin and laying a slice of fat bacon beneath it. 
 
 Doubing  consists in passing bacon 
 through  meat, while 
 larding  is on the surface only. 
 
 Glazing  is done by brushing melted glaze or
jelly over the article, and letting it cool; in some cases it is
requisite to cover the articles with two or three coats of glaze, allowing each
to cool as it is laid on. The glaze should be of a clear yellow brown, and as
thick as good treacle. 
 If you have not the glaze ready, sift a little sugar over the article
to be glazed, and finish in the oven, with a salamander, or red hot shovel. 
 
 Blanching  makes the article plump and white,
and consists in putting it into cold water over the fire, allowing it to
boil up, and then plunging it into cold water, where the article should
remain until quite cold. 
 
 Danger from Copper Saucepans. --The precise danger
from the use of copper saucepans, or stewpans, imperfectly tinned,  is hardly understood. It appears that the acid contained in
stews and other made dishes, as lemon-juice, though it does not
dissolve copper by being merely boiled in it a few minutes, nevertheless, if
allowed to cool and stand in it for some time, will acquire poisonous matter,
as verdigris, in the form of a green band, or crust, inside the vessel.
It has likewise been proved that 
 weak  solutions of common salt, such as are
daily made by adding a little salt to boiling vegetables, fish,
or meat, act powerfully on copper vessels, although 
 strong  solutions or brine would not affect
them. 
 It is, however, in vain to hope that cooks will attend to the nice
distinctions by which copper stewpans may be rendered safe; the general advice
given by prudent physicians is, therefore, against their use at all. 
 The kettles in which the soups are made should be well tinned, and kept
particularly clean, by being washed in hot water and rubbed dry before
they are put away. If they are not kept well tinned, the taste as well as the
color of the soup will be liable to be affected by the iron; and if the
soup-kettle be made of copper, and the tinning not quite perfect, everything
cooked in it will be more or less poisonous, as everything which is sweet,
salt, or sour, extracts verdigris from copper. 
 
 Boning,  besides its other advantages, is
particularly recommended, on account of its economy: the bones of
turkeys, fowls, hares, &c., assisting to make
gravy, while they are nearly useless when left in the bodies of the
animals: a boned fowl also, rendered solid by stuffing, will go
much further than when dressed in the common way. Hares should always be
boned, for the sake of the improvement in their appearance, and being so much
more easily carved. In the hiring of a cook by persons resident in the country,
it is therefore essential to ascertain whether she is mistress of that art; for
as to teaching her by printed directions, it would be time thrown away, and she
can only acquire it by practice; but it may be learned by a few lessons from
the poulterer.    Napkin Rings.  An illustration of two decorative rings.   
 
  CHAPTER XXVIII. HINTS AND MAXIMS. 
 IF you chance to occupy the important position of a cook, remember that
cleanliness is the first, second and third requisite in point of importance, to
be observed.  
 Keep your flour-box, sugar, salt, and spices always covered, that dust and
insects may not get in. 
 Never put onions or cheese on the same dish with anything else, and never
cut anything else with the knife you use for them. Keep a particular pitcher
for beer or buttermilk, or you may chance to put milk or water into the
remains. 
 Empty into some outside drain the saucepan in which you have boiled
vegetables, as soon as you have done with it; and never put by anything eatable
in a saucepan. This is a fearfully common practice with southern cooks. Keep
your tin and copper vessels as sweet and clean  as
glass or china. The saucepans are of far more consequence than tumblers or
teacups. If glasses be dirty, those who drink from them are disgusted; but if
saucepans be foul, they may chance to be poisoned. Many have died from this
cause. The sort of rust which forms in copper vessels not kept clean is a
deadly poison. If a housekeeper is careful, she will look into all her
saucepans at least once a week, to see if they are well cleaned, or want
tinning. 
 Let the dinner be served quite hot, and have the plates as hot as you can
handle them, Cold plates spoil the finest joint of meat; and it is very easy to
have plates hot. At breakfast and tea carry in the water quite boiling, and
then it will not be your fault if the tea is not good. It is a very common
fault in cooks, as soon as the teakettle boils, to set it on one side where the
water cools a little, so that it is not 
 quite  boiling when poured on the tea. 
 The true economy of housekeeping is simply the art of gathering up all the
fragments, so that nothing be lost. I mean fragments of 
 time,  as well as materials. Nothing should be thrown
away so long as it is possible to make any use of it, however trifling that use
may be; and whatever be the size of a family, every member should be employed
either in earning or in saving money. 
 In early childhood, you lay the foundation of poverty or riches in the
habits you give your children. Teach them to save everything; not for their 
 own  use--for that would make them selfish--but for 
 some  use. Teach them to 
 share  everything with their playmates; but never
allow them to 
 destroy  anything. 
 As far as possible, have bits of bread eaten before they become hard. Spread
the rest out to dry to be pounded for puddings, or soaked for "brewis." This is
made of dry crusts and bits of bread soaked in hot milk, mashed, salted and
buttered like toast. 
 An ox's gall will set any color in silk, cotton or woollen. The colors of
calico which would fade in one washing will be fixed by it. It is worth while
to buy cheap fading goods, and set them in this way. Get out all the liquid
from the gall, and cork it up in a large phial. One large spoonful in a gallon
of warm water is sufficient. It is also excellent for taking out spots from
bombazine and stiff goods, which, washed in it, look as well as new. It must be
stirred into the water. After washing cloth in this water, you must wash it if
you wish to 
 clear  it, in warm suds, not putting soap upon
it. 
 Lamps will have a less disagreeable smell if you dip the wick yarn in strong
hot vinegar and dry it. 
 Do not let coffee and tea stand in tin. Keep tinware dry, and scald
woodenware often. 
 Eggs will keep almost any length of time in lime water properly prepared.
One pint of coarse salt, and one pint of unslacked lime, to a common pailful of
water. If there be too much lime it will eat the eggs from the shells; and if a
single egg be cracked it will spoil the whole. They should be covered with lime
water, and kept in a cold place. It is a good plan to lay down eggs in the
spring and September for the winter. 
 Few know how to keep the flavor of sweet marjoram, the best of all herbs for
broth and stuffing. It should be gathered in bud or blossom and dried in a tin
kitchen at a moderate distance from the fire; when dry it should be rubbed,
sifted, and corked up in a bottle. 
 Bones from which roasting pieces have been cut may be bought in market for a
trifle, and a very rich soup made of them, besides skimming the fat for
shortening. Bones from the rump are full of marrow, and will yield a pint of
good shortening  without impairing the richness of
the soup. The best pieces of beef for soup are the leg and shin; if boiled very
long, the sinews add to the richness of the soup. 
 The shoulder of veal is the most economical for roasting or boiling; two
dinners may be made from it--the shoulder roasted, and the knuckle cut off to
be boiled with pork and greens, or made into soup. 
 Keep an old blanket and sheet for ironing, and on no account suffer any
other to be used. Have plenty of holders, and do not put towels to such
service.    Scrubbing Brush.  An illustration of a square headed brush with a handle.   
 Keep a coarse broom for the cellar stairs, wood shed, yard, &c. Never
use a carpet broom for such places. 
 Never drop knives into hot dishwater. Have a large tin basin to wash them
in, just high enough to wash the blades 
 without wetting  the handles. Keep your castors
covered with blotting paper and green flannel. Keep your salt spoons out of the
salt, and clean them often. 
 Do not wrap knives and forks in woollens, but in strong paper. Steel is
injured by lying in woollens. It is a good plan to rub the blades with nice
grease, and wrap them up separately, to prevent rust. 
 Herbs should be kept from the air. Herb tea, to do any good, should be made
very strong. Herbs must be gathered while in blossom. Those who have a little
ground will do well to raise the most useful herbs; apothecaries make large
profits on them. 
 The same pickle used for bacon is good for neats' tongues. Pigs' tongues are
nice, prepared in the same way. They are sold in England for reindeers'
tongues, as a great luxury. 
 Buffaloes' tongues should soak a day and a night, and boil six hours. 
 Molasses used in cooking should be first boiled and skimmed. One or two
gallons may be thus prepared at a time. It is a prodigious improvement. 
 Always have a heavy stone on the top of your pork in pickle. You may keep a
bit of fresh meat on this stone, in summer, when you fear it may spoil. 
 Have plenty of towels in the kitchen, or Biddy will use your white
napkins. 
 Soap dirty clothes, and soak them in water over night. Use hard soap for
clothes, and soft for washing floors. 
 Cut lemon and orange peel, when fresh, into a bottle kept full of brandy.
This brandy gives a delicious flavor to pies, cakes, &c. Roseleaves may be
preserved in brandy. Peach leaves steeped in it make an excellent seasoning for
custards and puddings. 
 Grate horseradish when the root is in perfection, put it in bottles, fill it
with strong vinegar, and keep it corked tight, for winter use. 
 Keep a bag for odd pieces of tape and strings, and a bag or box for old
buttons. 
 A little salt sprinkled in starch, while boiling, prevents its sticking; it
is also good to stir it with a clean sperm candle. 
 To separate wax from honeycomb, tie up the comb in a linen or woollen bag;
place it in a kettle of cold water, and hang it over the fire. The wax melts
and rises to the surface, while all the impurities remain in the bag. A few  pebbles in the bag will prevent its floating. 
 Honey may be separated from the comb by placing it in the hot sun or before
the fire, with two or three colanders or sieves under it--each finer than the
other. 
 Potatoes boiled and mashed hot, are good in shortcakes and puddings; they
save flour and shortening. 
 To corn meat simply--rub in plenty of salt, and set it in the cellar for a
day or two. In summer it is good to corn meat, which will not keep more than a
day and a half. If you want to keep it longer, rub in more salt, and secure it
from the flies. A little saltpetre rubbed in before you apply the common salt,
makes the meat tender; but it is not best to use it in summer. 
 Legs of mutton are good, aired in the same way as hams--six pounds salt,
eight ounces saltpetre, five pints molasses, will make pickle enough for one
hundred pounds. Small legs should be kept in pickle twelve or fifteen days;
large, four or five weeks; and they should be hung up a day or two before being
smoked. Lay them in the oven on crossed sticks, and make a fire at the entrance
with cobs or walnut bark, or chips, which impart a sweet taste. Smoke the
smallest pieces forty-eight hours; the large legs four or five days. If hung
till thoroughly dry, the mutton may be eaten in thin slices, like hung beef.
When legs of meat are put in pickle, the thickest part should be uppermost, as
the creature stood while living; also when hung to dry; thus the juices of the
meat are kept in. Meat should be turned over once or twice while smoking. 
 Hams should be well covered in paper bags, and put in a chest or barrel,
with layers of charcoal or ashes between. When you take one out to cut for use,
put it away in a dark place, well covered. 
 Let there be a place for every article, and when not in use let every
article be in its place. 
 Keep every utensil ready for immediate use. 
 The stock pot should never be suffered to be empty, as almost any meats
(save salt meats) or fowls make stock; the remnants should never be thrown
anywhere but into the stock pot, and should too much stock be already in your
possession, boil it down to a glaze: waste is thus avoided. 
 Keep your meat in a cool, dry place; your fish on ice, and your vegetables
on a stone floor free from air. 
 Cut your soap when it comes in, and let it dry slowly. 
 Keep your sweet herbs in paper bags, each bag containing only
one description of herb. They should be dried in the wind and not in the
sun, and when ordered in a receipt should be cautiously used, as a
preponderance in any seasoning spoils it. 
 When oranges or lemons are used for juice, chop down
the peel, put them in small pots and tie them down for use. 
 APPLES.--In choosing apples, be guided by the weight; the heaviest are the best,  Apple Peeler  An illustration of a vice type of device with knobs and a paddle/    and those should always be selected which, on being pressed
by the thumb, yield with a slight crackling noise. Prefer large apples
to small, for waste is saved in peeling and coring. 
 Apples should be kept on dry straw in a dry place, and pears
hung up by the stalk. 
 BATTER for fish, meat, fritters, &c.--Prepare it with
fine flour, salt, a little oil, beer,
vinegar, or white wine, and the whites of eggs beaten up;
when of a proper thickness, about the size of a nutmeg, it will drop out
of the spoon at once. Fry in oil or hog's lard. 
 CARROTS, if young, need only be wiped when boiled--if old, they must
be scraped before boiling. Slice them into a dish, and pour over them melted
butter. 
 CAULIFLOWERS.--Cut off the stalks, but leave a little of the green
on; boil in spring water with a little salt in it: they must not
boil too fast. 
 CELERY.--Very little is sufficient for soups, as the flavor is very
predominating. It should be particularly cleanly washed and curled when sent to
table. To curl celery, wash well, and take off the outside stalks, cut
it to a proper length, split each stalk into three or four divisions with a
large needle, then place the head of celery in spring water with
the root uppermost, and let it remain for four or five hours--it may then be
tastefully arranged on the dish. 
 GAME may often be made fit for eating when it seems spoiled, by
cleaning it and washing with vinegar and water. Birds that are
not likely to keep, should be drawn, cropped, and picked, then washed in two or
three waters, and rubbed with salt; have in readiness a large saucepan
of boiling water, and plunge them into it one by one, drawing them up
and down by the legs, so that the water may pass through them.
Let them stay for five or six minutes, then hang them up in a cold place; when
they are completely drained, well salt and pepper the insides,
and thoroughly wash them before roasting. 
 GRAVIES.--The skirts of beef and the kidney will make
quite as good gravy as any other meat, if prepared in the same
manner. The kidney of an ox, or the milt, makes excellent
gravy, cut to pieces and prepared as other meat, and so with the
shank end of mutton that has been dressed, if much gravy is not
required. The shank bones of mutton add greatly to the richness of
gravies, but they should be first well soaked and scoured clean. The
taste of gravies is improved by tarragon, but it should be
sparingly used, immediately before serving. 
 LARD should be carefully melted in a jar put in a kettle of
water and boiled, and run into bladders that have been strictly cleaned;
the bladders should not be too large, as the lard will become rank if
the air gets to it. While melting it, put in a sprig of rosemary. 
 MUSTARD mixed smooth with new milk, and a little cream
added, will keep; it is very soft, and by no means bitter. 
 SAGO should soak for an hour in water previous to using, to
take off the earthy taste. 
 SUET may be kept for a twelvemonth, thus: choose the firmest and most
free from skin or veins, remove all traces of these, put the suet
in a saucepan at some distance from the fire, and let it melt gradually; when
melted, pour it into a pan of cold spring water; when hard, wipe
it dry, fold it in white paper, put it into a linen bag, and keep it in
a dry, cool place; when used, it must be scraped, and will make an excellent
crust, either with or without butter. 
 TONGUE, which has been dried, should be soaked in water three
or four hours. One that has not been dried will require but little soaking; put
it in cold water, and boil gently till tender.  
 Raisin wine may be substituted for sherry, for sweets
generally. 
 Copper vessels, when the tinning is worn off, must never be used, or the
poisoning of those who partake of whatever may have been cooked in them is
inevitable. They should be sent to be re-tinned immediately they require
it. 
 Keep tapes and jelly bags clean, or when again used they will impart
an unpleasant flavor. 
 All soups should be moderately thin and bright. 
 Meats, such as beef, mutton, and venison, must
rather be underdone than overdone, excepting veal and pork, which
require to be well done. 
 Fish should be quite done, but not overdone. 
 Pastry must be carefully baked; it should be sent to table a pale gold
color. 
 Onions should be kept on ropes in a dry place--a specked one should
be removed or it will contaminate the others. 
 Cold water cracks hot iron infallibly. 
 Pudding towels should be carefully washed, and kept clean in a dry place.
Put a clean round towel on the roller quite as often as necessary. 
 Be very particular in not letting your stocks and sauces pass over two days
without boiling them up, and be careful to stir the thick soups and sauces all
the time they are on the fire, and change all your cold meats into fresh
clean dishes every morning, wiping down the dressers and shelves, and if
allowed larding cloths see that they are clean. Keep your larder door shut,
free from dust and damp; do not have your baked paste in the larder, but
in your kitchen cupboard, and then see to your game, wiping, and
peppering and gingering your venison, arranging the game which
requires to be dressed first, and see that all the blood which may have dropped
from the game or venison is cleaned from the dressers and
flooring. Then see to the vegetables, removing all stale and what is not
wanted, giving it to the poor, either dressed in some way or uncooked; do not
be overstocked, but always keep a little reserve. Be sure to look well, every
morning to your pickled pork and hams, keep and rub them well,
and turn them, marking those to be used first. Your fish must be looked
to and well cleaned and washed, and if intended for that day's dinner, kept in
water until required; if not, keep it on the marble or stones; your
doors should always be shut. 
 Clean hands, always clean hands. 
 A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to every one connected with it. 
 With these few hints we wind up our remarks, merely adding that many of the
receipts given, which are on too large a scale for a small family, may have
their proportions equally reduced, and an excellent dish will be the result. In
some instances also, the more expensive ingredients may be left out without
destroying the integrity of the receipt, discretion and judgment being alone
required in these cases. 
 In conclusion, the mistress of the household will understand that the
well-being of her establishment depends upon her surveillance; and though her
too frequent presence in the kitchen would be unnecessary and
annoying to the cook,  An illustration of a candle stick holder with a cone shapped device sticking out of the side.    yet she should not be
deterred from visiting it by any false delicacy, or deference to an absurd
custom which makes it vulgar for a lady to visit her cook in her own domains.
If the cook is thrifty and clean, she will be glad to receive the praise to
which she is fairly entitled; if dirty and careless, it is very essential that
the lady should be acquainted with the fact in order to remedy it by a
change. 
 
  CHAPTER XXIX. 
  ARTICLES IN SEASON FOR EACH MONTH. JANUARY. 
 
 Fish. --Eels, flounders, haddocks, lampreys, oysters,
whitings, clams, muscles, striped bass, salt mackerel, smoked salmon, sardines,
anchovies, fish pickled and soused. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, fish, pork, ham, venison,
veal, sausages, &c. 
 
 Poultry and game. --Capons, fowls, ducks, geese,
Scotch grouse, prairie fowls, young rabbits, partridges, pheasants, pigeons,
wild birds, turkeys, woodcock, snipe, quails, ducks--canvas back, red-head,
broad bill, teal--bear's meat, jugged hare. 
 
 Vegetables. --Winter spinach, turnips, potatoes,
sweet potatoes, rice, celery, cabbage, parsnips, carrots, dried white beans,
beets, dried herbs, garlic, onions, shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, parsley,
sage, rosemary, salsify, thyme, &c. 
 
 Fruits. --Apples, oranges, dried figs, imported
grapes, almonds, raisins, dates, filberts, prunes, hard nuts, Brazil and
Madeira-nuts, black-walnuts, hickory-nuts, peccan-nuts, butternuts,
chestnuts.   FEBRUARY. 
 
 Fish. --Codfish, eels, flounders, haddocks, lampreys,
oysters, smelts, whitings, clams, muscles, striped bass, smoked salmon, salt
mackerel, sardines, anchovies, pickled and soused fish. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, fresh pork, sausages, venison,
ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Fowls, capons, ducks, geese,
Scotch grouse, prairie fowls, partridges, rabbits, pheasants, pigeons, turkeys,
woodcock, reed birds, quails, snipe, ducks--canvas back, red head, teal, broad
bill,--hare, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Turnips, potatoes, sweet potatoes,
winter spinach, rice, celery, cabbage, parsnips, carrots, white beans, beets,
garlic, onions, shalots, mint, leeks, mustard, parsley, sage, salsify, thyme,
dried herbs. 
 
 Fruits. --Apples, oranges, figs, imported grapes,
almonds, raisins, filberts, dates, prunes, hazel-nuts, Brazil and Madeira-nuts,
black walnuts, hickory nuts, pecan-nuts, butternuts, chestnuts.   MARCH. 
 
 Fish. --Codfish, eels, haddocks, flounders, oysters,
clams, whitings, striped bass, perch, smelts, lampreys, salt mackerel, smoked
salmon, sardines, anchovies, pickled and soused fish. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, pork, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Fowls, capons, tame ducks, geese,
Scotch grouse, prairie hens, rabbits, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, turkeys,
reed birds, woodcock, snipe, quails, hare, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Spinach, lettuces, cresses, turnips,
potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, radishes, celery, cabbage, parsnips, carrots,
white beans, beets, garlic, onions, shalots, leeks, salsify, parsley, sage,
thyme, dried herbs. 
 
 Fruits. --Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, raisins,
filberts, prunes, hazel-nuts, Brazil and Madeira-nuts, hickory-nuts,
peccan-nuts, chestnuts, dates.    APRIL. 
 
 Fish. --Brook trout, codfish, halibut, shad, striped
bass, eels, lobsters, oysters, perch, roach, smelts, clams, shrimps, cray,
small fish. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, veal, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Spring chickens, fowls, capon,
turkeys, ducks, Scotch grouse, prairie hens, partridges, pheasants, pigeons,
quails, woodcock, snipe, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Lettuces, spinach, turnips, cresses,
potatoes, rice, radishes, parsnips, carrots, white beans, beets, garlic,
onions, shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, parsley, sage, salsify, thyme, dried
herbs, Jerusalem artichokes. 
 
 Fruits. --Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, raisins,
prunes, dates, &c.   MAY. 
 
 Fish. --Terrapin, fresh salmon, turtle, trout,
codfish, halibut, perch, shad, carp, striped bass, eels, English soles, soft
crabs, lobsters, salmon, roach, smelts, shrimps, cray fish, prunes, salt and
smoked fish. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, veal, ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Spring chickens, fowls, capons,
Scotch grouse, prairie hens, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Asparagus, lettuces, cresses,
mushrooms, spinach, turnips, potatoes, radishes, rice, parsnips, carrots, white
beans, onions, mint, mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, salsify, Jerusalem
artichokes, dry herbs. 
 
 Fruits. --Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, raisins,
prunes, dates.   JUNE. 
 
 Fish. --Terrapin, fresh salmon, turtle, trout,
codfish, halibut, perch, pickerel, fresh mackerel, shad, carp, sea-bass,
striped bass, eels, fresh herring, king fish, English soles, soft crabs,
lobsters, salmon-trout, sturgeon. 
 
 Meat. --Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, ham, salt pork. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Spring chickens, fowls, capons,
bear's meat, grouse, prairie fowl. 
 
 Vegetables. --Asparagus, green peas, Lima beans,
white beans, mushrooms, lettuces, cresses, spinach, celery, potatoes, radishes,
rice, carrots, onions, garlic, mint, mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, salsify,
Jerusalem artichokes, dry herbs. 
 
 Fruits. --Strawberries, cherries, currants, oranges,
figs, almonds, raisins, prunes, dates.   JULY. 
 
 Fish. --Terrapin, turtle, carp, cod, cray fish, eels,
flounders, fresh salmon, herring, lobsters, fresh mackerel, perch, pickerel,
salmon-trout, trout, sea-bass, striped bass, halibut, English soles, blue fish,
king fish, soft crabs, sturgeon. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, lamb, mutton, salt pork. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Chickens, fowls, green geese,
pigeons, plovers. 
 
 Vegetables. --Artichokes, asparagus, string beans,
Lima and white beans, peas of some kinds, carrots, celery, chervil, cucumbers,
endive, herbs of all kinds, lettuces, mint, mushrooms, potatoes, purslane,
cresses, radishes, salads of all sorts, salsify, spinach, turnips, green corn,
tomatoes, succory, squashes, eggplant, cold-slaw. 
 
 Fruits. --Apricots, currants, strawberries,
raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, cherries, nectarines, peaches,
hot-house grapes, melons of various kinds, oranges, almonds, raisins, prunes,
figs, fresh figs, pine apples, damsons, plums.   AUGUST. 
 
 Fish. --Terrapin, turtle, perch, codfish, pickerel,
carp, eels, fresh salmon, salmon-trout, brook-trout, lobster, fresh mackerel,
striped bass, sea-bass, English soles, soft crabs, halibut, cray-fish,
blue-fish,  king-fish, sturgeon, smelts, roach,
black-bass. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, salt pork,
ham. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Chickens, fowls, ducks, green
geese, plovers, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Artichokes, string-beans, lima and
white beans, carrots, celery, chervil, cucumbers, endive, herbs of all kinds,
lettuces, mint, potatoes, purslane, radishes, cresses, salads, oyster-plant,
spinach, turnips, green corn, tomatoes, succory, squashes, cold slaw, egg
plant. 
 
 Fruits. --Raspberries, blackberries, peaches,
nectarines, green grapes, plums, gooseberries, apricots, harvest apples,
mulberries, melons of various kinds, hot-house grapes, pears of different
sorts, summer pippins, green gages.   SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Fish. --Terrapin, turtle, perch, cod, pickerel, eels,
fresh salmon, salmon-trout, trout, lobster, striped bass, sea-bass, black bass,
English soles, soft crabs, halibut, cray-fish, blue-fish, king-fish, smelts,
sturgeon, roach. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, ham, salt beef and
pork. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Chickens, fowls, ducks, green
geese, meadow-larks, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Artichokes, white and lima beans,
carrots, celery, chervil, cucumbers, herbs of all kinds, lettuces, mint,
potatoes, purslane, radishes, salads, oyster plant, spinach, turnips, beets,
green corn, tomatoes, succory, squashes, cold slaw, egg plant. 
 
 Fruits. --Green grapes, magnum bonum plum, Palmer and
Columbia grapes, egg plums, gooseberries, nectarines, peaches, apples, grapes
of different varieties, pears of all kinds.   OCTOBER.  
 
 Fish. --Terrapin, salmon, striped bass, sea-bass,
blue-fish, salmon-trout, lobsters, codfish, halibut, black-fish, pickerel,
carp, eels, soft crabs, perch, trout, oysters. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison, lamb. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Meadow-larks, chickens, capons,
ducks, turkeys, partridges, wild pigeon, English snipe, grouse or prairie-hens,
pheasants, quails, wild ducks, hares, rabbits, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Artichokes, cauliflower, broccoli,
succory, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, parsnips, potatoes, spinach, turnips,
egg-plant, lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, rice, cauliflower, artichokes,
celery, leeks, onions, parsnips, sweet potatoes, potatoes, radishes, salads,
savoys, winter spinach, tomatoes, turnips, succory, beets, oyster-plant,
egg-plant, dry herbs. 
 
 Fruits. --Late peaches, apples, filberts, almonds,
hazel-nuts, grapes, quinces, walnuts, hickory-nuts, chestnuts, chincopins,
peccan-nuts.   NOVEMBER. 
 
 Fish. --Eels, oysters, clams, codfish, haddock,
lampreys, whitings, muscles, striped bass, salt mackerel, smoked salmon,
sardines, anchovies, &c. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton, lamb, pork, venison. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Chickens,
fowls, capons, ducks, geese, Scotch grouse,
prairie-hens, hares, rabbits, partridges,
pheasants, pigeons, turkeys, reed-birds, woodcock,
snipe, quails, canvas-back, red-head, broadbill,
teal-ducks, meadow-larks, bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Celery, cauliflower,
cabbage, radishes, winter-spinach, turnips,
potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, parsnips,
carrots, dry white beans, beets, dried herbs,
garlic, onions, shalots, leeks, mint,
mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, salsify. 
 
 Fruits. --Late peaches, apples,
oranges,  almonds, raisins,
filberts, prunes, figs, hazelnuts, Brazil and
Madeira nuts, dates, walnuts, hickory-nuts and
chestnuts.   DECEMBER. 

 
 Fish. --Oysters, clams,
eels, haddock, lampreys, whitings, muscles,
striped-bass, salt mackerel, smoked salmon, sardines,
anchovies, &c. 
 
 Meats. --Beef, mutton,
pork, veal, venison. 
 
 Poultry and Game. --Fowls,
turkeys, capons, ducks, geese, Scotch
grouse, prairie-hens, hares, rabbits, partridges,
pheasants, pigeons, reed-birds, woodcock, snipe,
quails, ducks, canvas back, red-head, broadbill,
teal,--bear's meat. 
 
 Vegetables. --Cauliflower, celery,
cabbage, winter spinach, turnips, potatoes, sweet
potatoes, rice, parsnips, carrots, dry beans,
beets, dried herbs, garlic, onions, shalots,
leeks, mint, mustard, parsley, sage,
thyme, salsify. 
 
 Fruits. --Apples, oranges,
bananas, almonds, raisins, filberts, prunes,
figs, hazelnuts, Brazil and Madeira nuts, dates,
walnuts, hickory-nuts, chestnuts. 
    PART SECOND.
RECEIPTS.  
RECEIPTS. SOUPS. 
 THERE is no dish, perhaps, that comes to table which gives such general
satisfaction as well prepared soup; let the appetite be vigorous or delicate,
an excellent soup will always prove grateful to it; and as this is beyond
contradiction, it should be the province of the cook to be always in a position
to produce it at a short notice. 
 There should always be plenty of dried herbs in the store closet;
these may be purchased chiefly in quantities at the beginning of the autumn, of
any market-gardener. Herbs may be very well kept, as indeed they are
usually, in paper bags; 
 they should be all labelled.  When time is an
important object, the necessity for this is obvious--they are always to be had
when wanted, and the bag should be immediately replaced after using. 
 There should be a saucepan, or a kettle of iron well tinned, kept for soup
only; the lid 
 should fit tightly;  one will be found to answer all
purposes, being especially useful as a "stock-pot." The inexperienced
reader will understand by the term "stock-pot," that soups being of two
kinds, brown and white, have different foundations, that of brown being
always beef, and that of white, veal; there are many
ingredients in each, and it is the various articles which, when put together,
are called "stock," hence the soup utensil is technically termed the
stock-pot. 
 When fat remains on any soup, a teacupful of flour and
water mixed quite smooth, and boiled in it, will make it rise as scum,
when it may be taken off. 
 If richness or greater consistency be wanted, a good lump of butter
mixed with flour, and boiled in the soup, will give either of these
qualities. 
 Long boiling is necessary to give the full flavor of the ingredients,
therefore time should be allowed for soups and gravies. Skim frequently
and simmer slowly; but do not let the broth cool until it is completely
made. 
 Be sparing in the use of pepper, salt, and spices. 
 If onions are too strong, boil a turnip with them, and it will
render them mild. 
 Do not keep either soups or gravies in any vessel of tin or copper;
and in stirring soup, do it always with a wooden spoon. 
 Arrow-root, or the mere farina or flour of the
potato, is far better for the thickening of soups than wheaten
flour. 
 The basis of all well-made soups, is composed of what English cooks call 
 "Stock,"  or broth, made from all sorts
of meat, bones and the remains of poultry or game; all of
which may be put together  and stewed down in the
"Stock-pot;" the contents of which are, by the French, termed 
 Consommé.  This is chiefly used for the
preparation of 
 brown  or gravy soups: that intended for 
 white  soups being rather differently
compounded, though made in nearly the same manner. 
 To the medley of ingredients, add carrots cut in thin slices,
herbs, onions, pepper, and salt; when it has stewed
slowly for a short time, pour in the boiling water in proportion to the
quantity of meat and soup required; then stew it until it is of a rich
consistency, take it from the fire, let it cool, remove the pot. 
 If required the following day, care should be taken that the deposit or
sediment is removed, as also the fat previous to warming; if kept long
the pans must be changed; there is as much danger in red glazed earthenware as
in metal pans; the latter should never be employed to keep gravies in,
if possible. Wherever greater richness is required, it may be obtained by the
addition of the jelly of cow-heel, or a lump of butter and
flour. 
 Remember, soup is richer and better for being made the previous day, or even
two or three days previously to its being required, if it be warmed each day;
to be really good it must be well stewed. 
 
 Seasonings for Soups.--Spices  should be put
whole into soups; allspice is one of the best, though it is not so
highly esteemed as it deserves. 
 Seville orange-juice  has a finer and milder
acid than lemon-juice; but both should be used with caution. 
 Sweet herbs,  for soups and broths, consist of
knotted marjoram, thyme, and parsley,--a sprig of each
tied together. The older and drier onions are, the stronger their
flavor; in dry seasons, also, they are very strong: the quantity should be
proportioned accordingly. Although celery may be generally obtained for
soup throughout the year, it may be useful to know, that dried
celery-seed is an excellent substitute. It is so strongly flavored, that a
drachm of whole seed will enrich half a gallon of soup as much as two
heads of celery. 
 Mushrooms  are much used, and when they cannot
be obtained, fresh mushroom ketchup will answer the purpose, but it
should be used very sparingly, as nothing is more difficult to remove than the
over-flavoring of ketchup. A piece of butter, in proportion to
the liquid, mixed with flour, and added to the soup, when boiling, will
enrich and thicken it. The finer flavoring articles, as ketchup,
spices, wines, juice, &c., should not be added till the soup
is nearly done. A good proportion of wine is a gill to three pints of
soup; this is as much as can be used without the vinous flavor predominating,
which is never the case in well made soups. Wine should be added late in
the making, as it evaporates very quickly in boiling. Be cautious of
over-seasoning soups with pepper, salt, spices, or
herbs, for it is a fault that can seldom be remedied; any provision
over-salted is spoiled. A teaspoonful of sugar is a good addition in
flavoring soups. 
 Vermicelli  is added to soups in the
proportion of a quarter of a pound for a tureen of soup for eight persons; it
should be broken, then blanched in cold water, and is better if stewed
in broth before it is put into the soup.   MEAT SOUPS.
1.--STOCK FOR WHITE SOUPS. 
 This is a soup, the foundation of which is veal,--the knuckle, the
scrag, or calf's head being the best meat for the
purpose,--an old fowl, a little ham, or bacon,
mutton, sheep's head, &c., nearly the same ingredients as for
brown soups, save that there must not be much beef, and the proportion
of ham and bacon smaller in the latter than former, and when made
for white sauce, care must be taken to leave out the
pepper.    2.--BROWN STOCK. 
 Put ten pounds of shin of beef, six pounds of knuckle of veal,
and some sheep's-trotters or a cow-heel, in a closely covered
stewpan, with very little water to draw out the gravy very
gently, and allow it nearly to dry in until it becomes brown. Then pour in
sufficient boiling water to entirely cover the meat, and let it
boil slowly, skimming it frequently; seasoning it with whole
peppers and salt, roots, herbs, and vegetables of any
kind. That being done, let it boil gently five or six hours, pour the
broth from off the meat, and let it stand during the night to
cool. The following morning take off the scum and fat, and put it away
in a stone jar for use. 
 
 Or: --Put into a stewpan a piece of beef, a
piece of veal, an old fowl, some slices of ham or
bacon, and all the trimmings of meat that can be obtained; add to
these materials, where such things are abundant, partridge, grouse, or
other game, which may not be sufficiently young and tender for the spit.
Put a little water to it, just enough to cover half the meat, and
stew very gently over a slow fire or steam apparatus. When the top piece is
done through, cover the meat with boiling water or broth;
season with spices and vegetables; stew all together for eight or ten
hours in an uncovered stewpan; skim off the fat, and strain the liquor
through a fine sieve. 
 Brown stock may be made from an ox-cheek, ox-tail,
brisket, flank, or shin of beef; which will, either together or
separately, make a strong jelly if stewed down with a piece of
ham or lean bacon, in the proportion of one-half pound to every
seven pounds of meat; but the shin of beef 
 alone  will afford a stronger and better flavor. 
 This stock may also be reduced to a 
 glaze  by boiling the skimmed liquor as fast as
possible in a newly tinned stewpan, until it becomes of the desired consistence
and of a good brown color; taking care at the same time to prevent it from
burning.   3.--BROWN GRAVY SOUP. 
 The meat used for making this soup should be quite fresh, and of the
common gravy beef; if the shin be used, break the bones, as the
marrow will add to its richness. 
 Take seven to eight pounds of the meat, cut a small portion of it
into thick pieces and put it with three or four large sliced onions into
a close stewpan, with a little butter, until fried to a fine brown. That
done, add a shank of ham, just cover the meat with cold
water--say a couple of quarts--and let it simmer by the fire for at least
three hours; during which time it should not be allowed to boil, but, when
coming to that point, check it with cold water, and skim it. As the
pores of the meat will then be opened, and the gravy drawn, throw
in three quarts of warm water, along with a handful or one quarter ounce
each of black pepper, allspice, and salt, as well as a
bundle of sweet herbs, a few cloves, a couple of shalots, two or
three middling-sized carrots and turnips (the latter an hour
afterwards), together with a couple of heads of celery, and allow the
whole to boil slowly until the meat is done to rags, and the vegetables
become tender. Then strain it off, and let it stand during the night. Remove
the fat on the following day, set any portion of it on the fire an hour
before dinner, and, when thoroughly heated, season it with mushroom or
walnut ketchup, and send it up with a plate of toasted bread, cut
into small square pieces, without crust. 
 You will thus form a gallon to five or six quarts of strong soup, according
to the quality of the meat; but as it is a winter soup, it will
bear keeping, and, if served more than once, the flavor  may be varied by the addition of different sorts of
ingredients, as for instance--first, plain gravy; secondly, gravy
and vegetables; and thirdly, vermicelli: or if only one-half or a third
part of the quantity be wanted, it may be prepared in the same manner by
proportionally reducing the materials. It may be also flavored with red
wine.   4.--SOYER'S STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP. 
 Procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight, which cut into
pieces about the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham
or bacon; then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom
of the stewpan (capable of holding about two gallons), into which put the
meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces of
salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each,
one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of
celery: put the cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire,
occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom
of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will
lightly adhere to the spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and
when upon the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it
must gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of
grease and scum; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and
it is ready for use when required. 
 The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups,
and of course for thick soups or purées; by boiling it rather faster
about five minutes before passing, you will be better enabled to take off every
particle of grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef
proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; mutton or
lamb, if any trimmings, might also be used; if beef, use seven
pounds; if mutton, eight; or lamb, seven; of course bones
are all included; with care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a
little color, as required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy
or browning, but never attempt to brown it by letting it color at the bottom of
the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the
osmazome.   5.--ANOTHER WAY, MORE ECONOMICAL. 
 Instead of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in four or
five pieces only, and leave the bacon in one piece; then, when the
broth is passed, take out the veal, which is very excellent
served with a little of the broth for gravy, and the bacon
with a few greens upon another dish. This is as I always eat it myself; but
some persons may probably prefer a little parsley and butter
sauce or piquant sauce, served with it. Should any of the
veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and gradually
warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you make your
stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the
time, preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with
beef, or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over;
the remainder, if cold, may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of
mutton, and you have used the scrags of the neck, the
breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep them in as
large pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few mashed
turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any remaining until
cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much
too expensive; but in case of an abundance, which may sometimes happen in the
country, proceed the same as for mutton.   6.--SOYER'S BROWN
GRAVIES. 
 Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a stewpan capable of
holding about three quarts; have ready peeled 
four onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom of
the stewpan; over these lay about three pounds of beef from the
leg or shin, cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very
small; add a small carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple
of cloves; set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking
it round occasionally to prevent burning; after which let it go upon a slow
fire for upwards of an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze,
but not burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive
the fat that runs from the meat quite clear; fill up the stewpan
with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt; and when upon the
point of boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently
about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the
surface; when done pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put by to use
for the following purposes:--For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or
game especially; also, to give a good color to soups and sauces. This
gravy will keep several days, by boiling it every other day. Although
beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it may be
made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh
pork, rabbits, or poultry.   7.--SOYER'S GLAZE. 
 Is an almost indispensable article in a 
 cuisine bourgeoise,  and should be kept by all
persons in the middle classes of life, the advantage being that it will keep
for months together, is very simple to make, and is always useful in cookery,
however humble; in fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very
little trouble. 
 Make a stock omitting the salt, which, when done, pass through
a cloth into a basin; then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot
water, and let it boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence from
the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as the first; then pour
both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it over the fire, and let it boil
as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occasionally and prevent
its boiling over; reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan,
set again to boil at the corner, skimming well if required; when reduced to
a quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon until
forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a fine
yellowish-brown color: pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, into
a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where directed.   8.--BROWNING
FOR SOUPS. 
 Take two ounces of coarse brown sugar, and pour upon it some thyme
water; place it on the fire till it becomes burnt. Or, take two ounces of
powdered lump-sugar, and half an ounce of fresh butter; put them
together in a frying-pan, and keep on the fire till the mixture becomes a
chocolate brown, then add three table-spoonfuls of port wine, and
two wine-glassfuls of elder wine, six shalots, half a dram of
mace, a dram of allspice, a dram of black pepper, half an
ounce of salt, two ounces of ketchup, and an ounce of fresh
lemon juice. Boil all together, let the liquor stand to settle, pour off
the clear liquor, bottle, and cork tight. Or, take some sugar,
white or brown, place it in an iron spoon, heat until liquid, and then
drop into half a pint of water; repeat until sufficiently brown. 
 9.--PORTABLE SOUP. 
 There are many advantages connected with this soup, which will present
themselves to the lady housekeeper, its constant readiness for use, its forming
an excellent stock for gravies, sauces, or  soups; a few minutes will suffice to make a basin of soup
from it. 
 Take three pounds of beef, a shin of beef, the bones of
which break, a cowheel and two small knuckles of veal, put them in a
stewpan and add as much water as will barely cover them, put in three
onions and seasoning to taste, stew the meat to ribbons,
strain and then put it in the coldest place you can command, when thoroughly
cold take off the fat and boil it fast in a stewpan without the lid on a
quick fire, let it boil and keep it stirred for at least eight hours, pour it
into a pan and let it stand twenty-four hours, then take your largest lip-basin
and turn the soup into it, boil sufficient water in the stewpan to reach
as high outside the basin which is placed in it as the soup is inside, but do
not let any bubble into the basin, keep the water boiling until the
water is reduced to a good consistency; it will be then done; it should
then be poured into small jelly pots, or in saucers, so as to form cakes
when cold, and is best preserved in tin canisters put in dry cool places. 
 This soup may receive various flavors of herbs or any thing else, by
boiling the herbs or other ingredients, and straining the simples noted
through water, making it boil, and then melting the soup in it. 
 10.--WHITE STOCK. 
 Take scrag or knuckle of veal, ox-heel, or calf's
head, together with an old fowl and the trimmings of any
white poultry or game which can be had, and lean ham in
the proportion of one pound to every fourteen pounds of meat. Cut it all
into pieces (add three or four large 
 un roasted onions and heads of celery,
with a few blades of mace; but neither carrots, pepper,
nor spice of any kind but mace); put it into a stock-pot
with just water enough to cover it: let it boil, and add three
onions and a few blades of mace; let it boil for five hours, and
it is then fit for use.   11.--WHITE PORTABLE SOUP. 
 Procure as fine a leg of veal as can be obtained, bone it,
remove the whole of the skin and fat, chop in pieces two dozen
fowls' feet, wash them well, put them into a large iron kettle
with three gallons of water, stew until the meat is tender enough
to separate, cover down close and stew for eight hours, take a tea-cup and fill
it with the soup; set it where it can quickly cool. If when cold it is
hard enough to cut with a knife, strain through a sieve and remove all
the fat, pour into cups the clear jelly, put them into a stewpan
with boiling water until they are like glue; let them cool, and
when nearly cold run a ring round them and turn them on to a piece of new
flannel; it will draw all the moisture out of them; turn them in seven hours
and continue until they are quite hard. Put them in tin canisters in a
dry place. 
 When any is required, cut a piece about the size of a walnut, pour a
pint of boiling water upon it, stir until the soup is dissolved, season
with salt, it will make a basin of strong broth; if for soup
steep some vermicelli in water; boil it; then to one cake of the
soup pour one pint of water. If two quarts or four pints of soup are
required, take four cakes of the soup, and when melted set it over the fire and
simmer, pour it into a soup tureen, add thin slices of bread very
lightly toasted, and upon them the vermicelli; season to palate. 
 12.--TRANSPARENT SOUP. 
 Cut the meat from a leg of veal in slices as thin as possible,
break the bone as small as possible, put the meat into a very
large jar and the bones at the top, with a bunch of sweet herbs,
a quarter of an ounce of mace, four ounces of blanched garden almonds
beat fine; pour upon it a  gallon of boiling
water, let it simmer over a slow fire twelve hours,--all night is best;
turn it into a double-bottomed tin saucepan, simmer until reduced to two
quarts, remove the scum as it rises, strain it and let it stand two hours, pour
into a saucepan, taking care not to let any of the sediment accompany it. 
 Steep two ounces of vermicelli in water, boil it and put it in
the soup before serving up.   13.--SOUP ITALIENNE. 
 Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal, break up the bones
and make a broth of them, cut half a pound of ham in slices and
lay them at the bottom of a stewpan; upon them the meat from the
knuckle of veal, with the slices of four carrots, four
turnips, a dozen peppercorns, two blades of mace, a large
onion, and a head of celery; cover down close; stew till the
gravy is drawn out and the roots are quite tender, pour over them the
broth made from the bone of the knuckle until they are covered,
add six spoonfuls of rice, stew four hours, work the soup through a
sieve, add vermicelli before serving.   14.--POT-AU-FEU. 
 This is by far the most wholesome of all soups. Take three pounds of good
rump of beef, of any part free from bone and not too fat;
put it into an earthen fire-proof pot, with three quarts of water, one
large carrot, two turnips, two leeks, a head of
celery, and one burnt onion; season, and let the soup boil slowly,
skimming it from time to time, for at least five hours; then strain it through
a fine sieve, and pour it over thin slices of bread to serve. The
meat and vegetables make a dish which is afterwards served. Thus cooked,
the beef becomes tender and juicy, and is excellent cold. 
 15.--OCHRA SOUP. 
 Put on six pounds of fresh beef--allowing a little less than a quart
of water to each pound; after it has boiled an hour add two quarts of
ochras minced fine as possible. Afterwards a dozen of ripe tomatoes
pared and cut up, with two turnips, a few Lima beans,
herbs, and other seasoning. The ochras should be
dissolved. Strain and serve it with toasted bread cut into slices, put
in after it comes out of the pot. 
 The soup may be made in winter of dried ochras. 
 16.--PEPPER POT. 
 Put four cow's feet and four pounds of tripe to boil with
water to cover them and a little salt. When simmered to pieces,
take them out, and skim and strain the liquor. Cut up the tripe, put it
in the pot, and pour the liquor over it. Add sliced onions and
potatoes and herbs, also small dumplings made with flour and
butter, and season with pepper and salt. A little
butter rolled in flour is an improvement. When done, serve in a
tureen.   17.--WHITE SOUP 
 Take a knuckle of veal, separated into three or four pieces, a slice
of ham as lean as possible, a few onions, thyme,
cloves, and mace, stew twelve or fourteen hours; an old
fowl will make it much richer if added. This soup must be made the day
before it is required; when removed from the fire, after being sufficiently
stewed, let it cool; and then remove the fat; add to it four ounces of
pounded blanched almonds, let it boil slowly, thicken it with half a
pint of cream and an egg; it should boil slowly for half an hour,
and then be served.   18.--GRAVY SOUP. 
 Take a leg of beef and well wash and soak it, break the bone
and put it into a   saucepan with a gallon of
water, a large bunch of sweet herbs, two large onions
sliced and fried to a nice brown, taking great care they are not burnt, two
blades of mace, three cloves, twenty berries of allspice,
and forty of black pepper, stew till the soup is as rich as you wish it
to be, then take out the meat. When it is cold take off the fat,
heat the soup with vermicelli, and the nicest part of a head of
celery boiled and cut to pieces, cayenne, and a little salt;
carrot may be added with turnip cut into small pieces and boiled
with spinach and endive, or the herbs without the
vermicelli, or vermicelli only; add also a large spoonful of soy
and one of mushroom ketchup; a French roll should be made hot and
put into the soup.   19.--JENNY LIND'S SOUP. 
 Soyer says: This is the soup invented and often partaken of by the
celebrated cantatrice of the name it bears, who partook of it every day
when on a visit to the talented authoress, Mrs. Anna Maria Hall, who was kind
enough to forward it to me for this edition. 
 Make about three quarts of stock, which strain through a fine sieve
into a middle-size stewpan; set it to boil; add to it three ounces of
sago; boil gently twenty minutes; skim; just previous to serving break
four fresh eggs, and place the yolk, entirely free from the
white, into a basin, beat them well with a spoon; add to it a gill of
cream; take the pan from the fire, pour in the yolks, stir
quickly for one minute, serve immediately; do not let it boil, or it will
curdle, and would not be fit to be partaken of. The stock being
previously seasoned, it only requires the addition of half a teaspoonful of
sugar, a little more salt, pepper, nutmeg; also
thyme, parsley, and bay-leaf will agreeably vary the flavor
without interfering with the quality.   20.--HARICO SOUP. 
 Cut some mutton cutlets from the neck; trim and fry them of a
light brown; stew in brown gravy soup till tender. Have ready some
carrots, turnips, celery, and onions; fry them in
butter for some time, and clear the soup from the fat; then add
the vegetables, color it, and thicken it with butter and flour;
season, and add to it a little port wine and ketchup. If the
gravy be ready, the soup will require no more time to prepare than may
be necessary to render the chops and vegetables tender, and is an excellent
family dish. If wanted to be made more highly flavored, put in a little
curry-powder.   21.--FRENCH POT-AU-FEU. 
 Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite soup and bouilli, which has been
everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all
classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all
pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact, this soup and bouilli is to
the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday
to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is
supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. The following is the receipt:-- 
 Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef, four quarts of
water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling, add a spoonful and
a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four
turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery,
two onions and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of
parsnip; skim again, and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little
cold water now and then; take off part of the fat; put slices of
bread into the tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the
broth, and serve the meat separately with the vegetables around.
The remainder of the  broth from the
pot-au-feu may be used for any kind of soup instead of the stock. The
best part of the beef for the pot-au-feu is the mouse-buttock, tops of
the ribs, clod and stickings.   22.--WHITE SOUP. 
 Take a large scrag or a knuckle of veal, and one-half pound of
lean ham; some blades of mace and a piece of ungrated
nutmeg, sliced onions, and heads of celery, with a little
salt and an equal quantity of loaf-sugar. Break the bones,
and stew all gently with one gallon to six quarts of water--according to
the weight of the meat--until it is done to rags and the soup becomes
sufficiently strong: skim it, and strain it through a hair sieve; or, if
allowed to stand during the night, pour it into an earthen vessel, and next
morning take off the fat. When preparing it for table, add to the liquor
from one-quarter to one-half pound of sweet almonds, blanched and finely
pounded; boil a short time and strain again; then put in one-half pint to a
pint of good thick cream, and the yolk of an egg; but when the
cream and egg are put in, be careful not to let the soup boil, or
it will curdle. The safest way to avoid this is to mix the cream and
egg in the tureen and pour the soup upon it. This in French cookery is
called 
 "Liaison."    23.--RICE AND MEAT
SOUP. 
 Put a pound of rice and a little pepper and broth herbs
into two quarts of water; cover them close, and simmer very softly; put
in a little cinnamon, two pounds of good ox-cheek and boil the
whole till the juices are incorporated into the liquor. 
 24.--OX-TAIL SOUP. 
 Two ox-tails, if properly stewed, with a couple of pounds of gravy
beef and a bone of ham, will make an excellent soup. Cut the tails
into joints, and boil very gently for several hours in a sufficient quantity of
water, with the beef and ham, carrots,
turnips, and celery, two or three onions, a piece of
crust of bread, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove or two,
and some peppercorns. Take out the tails when tender, and let the
beef, &c., boil four hours longer, then strain the liquor, and
remove the fat in the same manner as for clear gravy soup. If
made without ham bones, or other flavoring ingredients, it will require
the addition of a little ketchup, or some of the prepared sauces, and a
glass of wine, with a moderate quantity of cayenne. Add the tails
and some pieces of carrot and turnip cut into fancy shapes. 
 When thickened ox-tail soup is preferred, proceed in the same manner
as above, and thicken the broth with brown roux.   25.--SOUP A LA
FRANÇAISE. 
 Place in the stewpan six pounds of beef, add a few small veal
bones, or one about a pound weight, add a couple of fowls'
heads, and a small piece of calf's liver; cover with four
quarts of water; when it boils remove the scum, add three or four
leeks, a couple of turnips, a head of celery, a burnt
onion, a large carrot, salt, and simmer slowly seven
hours; let every particle of scum be removed, serve with sippets of
bread in the soup.   26.--TO MAKE FAMILY SOUP. 
 Take a shin or leg of beef, that has been newly killed; the
fore-leg is best, as there is the most meat on it. Have it cut
into three pieces, and wash it well. To each pound allow somewhat less than a
quart of water; to ten pounds of the leg, two gallons of
water. Put it into a large pot, and add half a tablespoonful of
salt. Hang it over a good fire, full eight hours before you dine. When
it has come to a hard boil, and the  scum
has risen (which it will do as soon as it has boiled), skim it well; then set
it on hot coals in the corner, and keep it simmering steadily, so as
to continue a regular heat. 
 About three hours afterwards, put in a couple of heads of celery,
four carrots cut small, and as many onions sliced and fried, with
either a very small head of cabbage cut into little pieces, or a large
one whole, if to be eaten with the meat, or, if you have any objection
to cabbage, substitute a larger proportion of the other vegetables, or
else tomatoes instead. Put also in a bunch of herbs, tied up in a
thin muslin rag to prevent its floating on the surface. It will require at
least eight hours' cooking; remembering to put in the vegetables three hours
after the meat, and the turnips only half an hour before it is
done. If you wish to send any portion of the meat to table, take the
best part of it out of the soup about two hours before dinner; let the
remainder be left in the pot till you send up the soup, as by that time it will
be boiled to rags, and have transferred all its flavor to the liquid, and must
be strained. 
 Next day, take what is left of the soup; put it into a pot, and simmer it
over hot coals for half an hour; a longer time will weaken the taste. If
it has been well made, and kept in a cool place, it will be found better the
second day than the first. 
 If your family is very small, and the leg of beef large, it may
furnish soup for several successive days. Half the leg may therefore be
sufficient, previously breaking to pieces all the bones with a mallet or
kitchen cleaver, which, by causing them to give out their marrow, will
greatly enrich the soup. 
 
 Or: --When a large quantity of any butcher's
meat is brought in for the use of the family, the joints will require
trimming: take all the parings, adding a slice or two of bacon,
beef or mutton bones, with an old fowl, or a
rabbit, if you have one, turnip, and all sorts of vegetables,
onions, herbs, a few slices of carrot, ketchup,
pepper, salt, &c.; put a piece of butter at the bottom
of the pan, cover it closely, and put it over a slow fire for a few minutes,
shaking the saucepan occasionally. Then pour in boiling water, and let
it stew until it is rich; apportioning the water to the quantity of
meat. If there be any solid portion of beef, of which the soup is
made, let it be taken out previous to the meat being "done to rags," and
sent up along with the roots in some of the liquor, thickened and flavored with
any piquant sauce: it will form an excellent stew. 
 These receipts also, are for the standing household dish so well known in
France as the 
 pot-au-feu.  
 Cheap and wholesome potages, in common use among the middling classes in
various parts of Europe, are also made in different modes, a few of which are
these:--   27.--COTTAGE SOUP. 
 Take two pounds of lean beef, cut into small pieces, with one-fourth
of a pound of bacon, two pounds of meally potatoes, three ounces of
rice, carrots, turnips, and onions sliced, or
leeks and cabbage. Fry the meat, cabbage, and
onions in butter or dripping, the latter being the most
savory; and put them into a gallon of water, to stew gently over
a slow fire for three hours, putting in the carrots at the same time,
but the turnips and rice only time enough to allow of their being
well done; and mashing the potatoes, which should be then passed through a
colander: season only with pepper and salt: keep the vessel
closely covered. It will make five pints of excellent soup at the cost of about
one shilling and eight pence.   28.--SCOTCH KAIL 
 Is chiefly made of mutton, either fresh 
or salted; beef is only used when mutton cannot conveniently be
had. Three or four pounds of meat should be put into a gallon of cold
water, along with a moderate quantity of pearl-barley, with
leeks or onions, and allowed to stew until tender; if salted, put
the meat into water over night, changing it once before boiling.
Then have ready the hearts of two cabbages cut small, or greens, if
cabbages are not in season; put them into the broth, which must be
allowed to boil up uncovered until reduced to two quarts. It should only be
seasoned with pepper and salt; but will be much improved by the
addition of a couple of onions fried in butter; indeed, both
carrots and turnips are also sometimes used, but their addition
deprives the soup of the title of "Kail," which is derived from the greens
which are usually employed. 
 The meat is served with the soup, and, in like manner as the 
 olla  of the Spaniards, or the 
 pot au feu  of the French, is the standing household
dish among the middle classes of Scotland.   29.--COCK-A-LEEKIE-- 
 Or as in Scotland called 
 "cocky-leeky" --is there also a very ancient dish,
and is recorded to have been a special favorite of James I. It is made
thus:-- 
 Stew a large fowl, a marrow-bone, and two or three pounds of
beef, with two or three Scotch pints (four to six 
 quarts)  of water, and the white ends
of two or three dozen of leeks, cut in pieces. Just before serving, add
half a pound of prunes, which dish with the soup and the fowl;
but not the meat or marrow-bone, which, when put to boil, must be
divided, and left uncovered. 
 
 Or: --Put seven pounds of the upper end of a leg
of beef, and an old fowl, in a pot, with water enough to
cover it, the white parts of two or three dozen of leeks,
half-boiled and sliced, and one pound of prunes. Stew till the
meat be tender, skimming it well, and, if you choose, the fowl
may be disjointed and sent up in the soup. The leeks should be blanched,
and as many used as to thicken the soup; but no other seasoning is
usually employed than salt and allspice, with a small quantity of
mace.   30.--SAGO SOUP. 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, a slice of lean ham, and lay
them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, draw the gravy gently,
add two quarts of water, and a sliced onion which has been
browned by frying in fresh butter, add a bunch of sweet herbs,
six cloves, a blade of mace, a teaspoonful of allspice,
and one of black pepper whole, stew until the soup is rich and brown,
then remove the meat and strain the soup clear, put it into a clean
stewpan, thicken it to a good consistency with sago. 
 31.--SHEEP'S
HEAD SOUP. 
 Have the head carefully cleaned, put it into a stewpan with a little
water, and when it is heated through fill up the pot. When it is
sufficiently tender, take it up, remove the meat from the bones,
and return the bones into the broth, adding onion,
sweet herbs, &c., as before directed. The head and trotters
may also be put with some vegetables into an earthen jug, containing half a
gallon of water; cover it close up, and bake it; either cut the
meat from the bones, when sufficiently tender, and put it in
small pieces into the soup, or serve up the head and trotters
separately, either whole or with the meat cut off and made into a
stew. 
 In Scotland, the head is usually singed with a red-hot iron to remove
the wool, but without burning or otherwise injuring the skin. The
head is then soaked during the night, washed, scraped, and split; the
brains taken out, and either fried or made into forcemeat balls,
and the head stewed in the broth till tender.    32.--SOYER'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 
 Cut up a small knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan, with a
piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a
turnip, three onions, and six apples, add half a pint of
water; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round
occasionally, let it remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a
brownish glaze, then add three tablespoonsful of curry powder, one of
curry paste, and half a pound of flour; stir well in, and fill
the stewpan with a gallon of water; add a spoonful of salt, the
half of one of sugar; when boiling, place it at the corner of the
fire, and let it simmer two hours and a half, skimming off all the fat
as it rises, then pass it through a tammy into a tureen; trim some of the
pieces of veal, and put it back in the stewpan to boil, and serve with
plain boiled rice separate. Ox-tails or pieces of rabbits,
chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner, may be served in it
instead of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat. Taste,
before serving, if quite palatable.   38.--SCOTCH BROTH. 
 Set on the fire four ounces of pearl-barley, with three Scotch
pints (or six quarts) of salt water; when it boils skim it, and add what
quantity of salt beef or fresh brisket you choose, and a
marrow-bone or a fowl, with a couple of pounds of either lean
beef or mutton, and a good quantity of leeks, cabbages, or
savoys; or you may use turnips, onions, and grated
carrots. Keep it boiling for at least four or five hours; but if a
fowl be used, let it not be put in till just time enough to bring it to
table when well done, for it must be served up separately. 
  Or: --Take the chops from a neck of mutton;
cut the remainder up in small pieces, and let it stew the whole day. Take also
a breakfast cup of Scotch barley, and boil it in water till it
gets dry; then chop fine two large onions and turnips, which put
with the barley and chops into a close stewpan, strain the stock
into it, let it boil one and a half hours and skim it well, seasoning it
only with salt and black pepper. This will make a large tureen of
broth, besides preserving the chops for the table.   34.--HOTCH POTCH. 
 Take any quantity of lamb chops, pare off the skin and greater
part of the fat, trim the bones, cut the smaller end of the chops
into pieces, and lay them along with the chops put in whole in a stewpan in
this manner:--A layer of chops at the bottom, covered with every kind of
vegetable cut into small pieces--onions, celery, lettuce,
carrots, turnips, and green peas; then put on a layer of
chops, and so on with the vegetables until the whole are added; cover the
ingredients with water, and let it stew several hours very gently, until
both the meat and vegetables become tender, and the soup thick. 
  Scotch Hotch Potch  is made in the same
manner, only that both beef and mutton are indiscriminately used,
and minced instead of being left in chops.   35.--PEPPER-POT HOTCH
POTCH. 
 To three quarts of water put vegetables according to the season. In
summer, peas, French beans, cauliflowers, lettuce,
and spinach; in winter, beet-root and endive, *  carrots,
turnips, celery, and onions in both, all cut small; and
stew with two pounds of neck of mutton, or a fowl and one pound
of pickled pork, in three quarts of water, till quite tender. 
 On first boiling, skim. Half an hour before serving, add a lobster or
crab cleared from the bones. Season with salt and
cayenne. A small quantity of rice should be put in with the
meat. 
 *If endive be used, it should, however, be boiled in two or three waters to
take off its bitterness.    Some people choose
very small suet dumplings boiled with it. Should any fat rise,
skim nicely, and put one-half a cup of water with a little
flour. 
 It may be made of various things, using a due proportion of fish,
flesh, fowl, vegetables and pulse. In the West Indies it is the
universal dish of the colored people; but seasoned so highly with green
capsicums and peppers, that it is there called
"pepper-pot."   36.--SOUP A LA SAP. 
 Divide a pound of beef into thin slices, grate half a pound of
potatoes and put them in three quarts of water, add an onion,
a pint of grey peas and three ounces of rice; reduce it by
boiling to five pints; cut two heads of celery and put them into the
stewpan, pour upon them the five pints of soup and pulp the boiled
peas into it through a fine tammy or coarse cloth. Stew until it is
quite tender, season with pepper and salt, and serve up with
fried bread cut in dice.   37.--HESSIAN SOUP. 
 Cut into slices three pounds of shin of beef, lay it in a stewpan,
put in three onions, five carrots, eight potatoes, a pint and
a quarter of split peas, three heads of celery, some whole
pepper, salt; pour in by degrees seven quarts of water,
stew until reduced to half. If the soup alone be required strain off the
vegetables, if not, serve as cooked.   38.--SOUP A LA REINE VICTORIA. 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal, place it in a stewpan with a
slice of bacon, which must not be fat, an onion with one
clove, a blade of mace, a head of celery, a handful of
sweet herbs, four ounces of fresh butter, and some whole white
pepper; set it over a clear fire, move it frequently to prevent burning, or
the flavor is ruined. Have some white gravy ready, thicken it, add two
quarts to the above ingredients with a few strips of mushrooms; let it
boil, and when it reaches that point remove it; skim it clean of all scum or
fat. Have ready some vermicelli which has been soaked five
minutes in cold water and subsequently stewed in a strong broth;
strain on it the soup and serve with blanched chervil leaves in it. 
 39.--MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP. (ENGLISH.) 
 A calf's head divided, well cleaned, place with a
cow-heel in a well tinned saucepan; boil them till tender, let them
cool, cut the meat from the bones in slices, and fry them in
butter; stew the bones of the head and heel for some
hours; when well stewed, strain, let it get cold and remove the fat.
When this is accomplished cut four onions in slices, flour them,
fry them in butter until brown, add a tablespoonful and a half of best
curry powder obtainable, cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful with a
little salt; turmeric powder sufficient to fill a dessert spoon
is sometimes added, but the improvement is not manifest to a refined English
palate, the curry powder being deemed all that is necessary; add these
last ingredients to the soup, boil gently for about an hour and a half, add two
dessert spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce; serve.   40.--SPRING SOUP 
 May be made of a knuckle of veal--allowing a quart of water to
each pound--with four calves feet, a little cold ham, or
salt and cayenne, simmered 
 slowly  for several hours. Add then, two quarts young
green peas and a pint of asparagus tops, previously boiled with
the juice of spinach and other green herbs or vegetables, and a
quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour.--Boil up together,
and serve.    41.--SUMMER SOUP. 
 Made of mutton neck or shoulder, simmered as above, in the same
proportion of water, with sliced turnips, carrots and
onions, a quart of Lima beans, and parsley, sweet
marjoram and other herbs; green corn is an excellent addition
late in summer, or cauliflower, and a few pickled nasturtions; also
small dumplings, mixed with egg and butter; simmer the vegetables
till done.   42.--AUTUMN SOUP. 
 Take six pounds of lean cut up, a quart of water to a gallon, add the
hock of a ham, boil and skim it, and put in two quarts ochras,
cut in small slices, an onion sliced, two quarts ripe tomatoes,
cut up, one quart Lima beans; simmer four hours slowly, add the green
corn grated off eight ears, season the soup and boil till the
meat is in rags and the soup thoroughly done. Dried ochras may be
used in winter.   43.--WINTER SOUP. 
 Take a shin or leg of beef, cut in pieces, salt and let it
stand all night; next morning put it on with water, a quart to a pound,
season with salt, pepper and mace; simmer and skim well.
When boiling, put in a head of cabbage cut fine, twelve carrots
sliced; a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley; add six
turnips and three potatoes, and an onion, all sliced; skim off
the fat and simmer slowly till dinner time.   44.--HOTCH POTCH.
(English) 
 Put a pint of peas into a quart of water, boil them until they
are so tender as easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take of the leanest end
of a loin of mutton three pounds, cut it into chops, put it into a
saucepan with a gallon of water, four carrots, four
turnips cut in small pieces; season with pepper and salt.
Boil until all the vegetables are quite tender, put in the pulped peas,
a head of celery, and an onion sliced, boil fifteen minutes and
serve.   45.--MUTTON SOUP. 
 Cut a neck of mutton into four pieces, put it aside, take a slice of
the gammon of bacon and put it in a saucepan with a quart of
peas, with enough water to boil them, let the peas boil to
a pulp and strain them through a cloth, put them aside, add enough
water to that in which is the bacon to boil the mutton,
slice three turnips, as many carrots, and boil for an hour
slowly; add sweet herbs, onions, cabbage, and
lettuce chopped small, stew a quarter of an hour longer, sufficient to
cook the mutton, then take it out, take some fresh green peas,
add them with some chopped parsley and the peas first boiled, to
the soup, put in a lump of butter rolled in flour, and stew till
the green peas are done.   46.--LAMB SOUP. 
 May be cooked as above, save that beef should be substituted for the
bacon.   47.--LEG of BEEF BROTH. 
 Take a leg of beef, break the bone in several places, place it
in a pan with a gallon of water, remove the scum as it rises and add
three blades of mace, a crust of bread, and a small bunch of
parsley; boil till the beef is tender; toast some
bread, cut it in diamonds, lay it in the bottom of the tureen, put the
meat on it, and pour the broth over all.   48.--VEAL
BROTH. 
 Stew a knuckle of veal; draw gravy as for stock, add
four quarts of water, with celery, parsley, and an
onion; simmer till reduced to half, add two or three ounces of
rice, but not until the soup is nearly cooked, so that when served the
rice may be no more than done. Vermicelli may be used in
preference, or for a change.    49.--MUTTON
BROTH. 
 Three pounds of the scrag of mutton, put into two quarts of cold
water; add onion and turnips, pepper and salt,
a few sweet herbs, and a little pearl barley; skim well, and boil
four hours. 
 These ingredients chiefly depend upon whether this dish is made for an
invalid; if so, the omission of any of the ingredients will be regulated
according to the advice of the medical attendant.   50.--BAKED SOUPS. 
 Take a pound of any lean meat and cut it into dice, place in an
earthen jar, or pot, that will hold five quarts of liquid. Slice, and add to
it, two onions, two carrots, two ounces of rice washed and
previously soaked, a pint of whole or split peas, and some pepper
and salt to taste; cover all with a gallon of water, tie a cloth
over the top of the jar, or close the lid of the pot down very close, and
bake. 
 This is a cheap and useful soup for poor people, and may be much improved by
using the liquor that salt beef, or indeed, any meat has been
boiled in, instead of water. 
 
 Cheap--for the poor. --Soak a quart of split
peas for a day in cold water, and then put them into a boiler with
two gallons and a half of water, and two pounds of cold boiled
potatoes, well bruised, a faggot of herbs, salt,
pepper, and two onions sliced. Cover it very close, and boil very

 gently  for five hours, or until only two gallons of
soup remain. 
 
 Another. --Take two pounds of shin of beef, a
quarter of a pound of barley, a half-penny worth of parsley, two
onions sliced, salt and pepper to taste, and having cut
the meat into dice, and broken the bone, place in a gallon pot
and fill up with water; boil very gently for five hours. Potatoes,
celery tops, cabbage, or any vegetable left from the day before
may be added.   51.--SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH. 
 Throw three-quarters of a pound of Scotch barley into some clean
water, when thoroughly cleansed place it with a knuckle of veal in a
stewpan, cover it with cold water, let it slowly reach a boil, keep it
skimmed, add seven onions, and simmer for two hours; skim again and add
two heads of celery and two turnips cut in slices, or any shape
it pleases the cook; add as much salt as required to make it palatable,
let it stew for an hour and a half; it must be well skimmed before the
broth is dished; the meat must be previously removed and the
broth alone sent to table. If it is intended to send the veal to
the table with it, dress it as follows: take two pints of the broth and
put it into a stewpan over a clear fire, add two table-spoonfuls of
flour to the broth, and keep the broth stirring as you
shake it in until it boils; add a little cayenne pepper, two
table-spoonfuls of port, boil for two minutes, strain it over the veal
and send to table.   52.--GIBLET SOUP. 
 Scald and clean thoroughly two sets of goose giblets or twice the
number of duck giblets, cut them in pieces, put them in three quarts of
stock; if water is used instead of stock add a pound of
gravy beef, a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of onions,
half a table-spoonful of whole white pepper, as much salt, and
the peel of half a lemon; cover all with water, stew, and when
the gizzards are tender, strain the soup. 
 Now put into a stewpan a paste made of an ounce of butter and
a spoonful of flour, stir it over the fire until brown, pour in the
soup, let it boil, stirring it well all the while; in ten minutes skim and
strain it, add a glass of Madeira, a 
salt-spoonful of cayenne, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom
ketchup, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, serve up with
the giblets in the soup. It should be sent to table as hot as
possible.   53.--POTAGE À LA REINE. 
 Is so called from its having been said to be a favorite soup at the table of
Her Majesty. 
 Stew two or three young fowls for about an hour in good fresh-made
veal broth: then take them out, skin them, and pound the
breast, or only the white meat, in a mortar until it becomes
quite smooth. That done, mash the yolks of three or four hard-boiled
eggs with the crumb of a French roll soaked either in the
broth or in milk, and mix this with the pounded meat to
form a paste, which must be afterwards passed through a sieve. During
this operation the bones and skin have been left stewing in the
broth, which must then be strained, and the paste put gradually
into it: then let it boil briskly for a short time, stirring it all the while
to ensure its thorough mixture. When that is done take it from the fire; warm a
pint or more of cream, and pour it gently into the soup. 
 This being a delicate white soup, the broth should only be
seasoned with salt and mace, nor should there be any other
vegetable used than celery; but the cream may be flavored with
almonds.   54.--RICE SOUP. 
 Take white stock, season it, and either whole rice boiled till
very tender, or the flour of rice may be used; one-half pound will be
sufficient for two quarts of broth.   55.--VEAL POTTAGE. 
 Take off a knuckle of veal all the meat that can be made into
cutlets, &c., and set the remainder on to stew, with an onion, a
bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, some whole pepper, and
five pints of water: cover it close; and let it do on a slow fire, four
or five hours at least. Strain it, and set it by till next day; then take the
fat and sediment from the jelly, and simmer it with either
turnips, celery, sea-kale, and Jerusalem artichokes, or
some of each, cut into small dice, till tender, seasoning it with
salt and pepper. Before serving, rub down half a spoonful of
flour with half a pint of good cream and butter the size
of a walnut, and boil a few minutes. Let a small roll simmer in the
soup, and serve this with it. It should be as thick as middling cream,
and, if thus made of the vegetables above mentioned, will make a very delicate
white pottage. The pottage may also be thickened with rice and
pearl-barley; or the veal may be minced, and served up in the
tureen.   56.--VEAL BROTH. 
 Stew a knuckle of veal of four or five pounds in three quarts of
water, with two blades of mace, an onion, a head of
celery, and a little parsley, pepper, and salt; let
the whole simmer very gently until the liquor is reduced to two quarts; then
take out the meat, when the mucilaginous parts are done, and serve it up
with parsley and butter. Add to the broth either two
ounces of rice separately boiled, or of vermicelli, put in only
long enough to be stewed tender. Dish the knuckle separately, and serve it with
parsley and butter.   57.--MULLAGATAWNEE. 
 Slice some onions and a few shalots, put them in a mortar with half a
pound of fresh butter, beat them well, add three or four
dessert-spoonfuls of curry-powder, a little cayenne pepper and
salt; cut up some India pickle, which pound  well with the other ingredients; add flour sufficient
to thicken the soup, and a little cold stock to work the whole into a
stiff paste. When beaten moisten it occasionally with broth made
from fresh beef free from fat; when fine enough pass it through a
sieve, add to it the gravy that the heart was stewed in, and as
much of the beef broth as will make the quantity of soup required. Boil
it up, and add more seasoning of cayenne and salt. If not thick
enough, add flour and butter, until it becomes of the consistency
of good cream. A spoonful of sugar and a little port wine
are improvements.   SOUPS OF GAME, POULTRY, &C. 
 58.--VENISON SOUP. (English.) 
 Take four pounds of freshly killed venison cut off from the
bones, and one pound of ham in small slices. Add an onion
minced, and black pepper to your taste. Put only as much water as
will cover it, and stew it gently for an hour, keeping the pot closely covered.
Then skim it well, and pour in a quart of boiling water. Add a head
of celery cut into small pieces, and three blades of mace. Boil it
gently two and a half hours; then put in one fourth of a pound of
butter, divided into small pieces, and rolled in flour, and add
half a pint of port or Madeira wine. Let it boil a quarter of an hour
longer, and send it to table with the meat in it. 
 
 Or: --Take a breast of venison, cut it in
small pieces, and stew it gently in brown gravy soup. Serve it with
roots cut in dice and French beans in diamonds, adding two glasses of
port wine when first put on. 
 The head of the deer chopped in pieces, and the flesh stewed
to a jelly, is also an excellent addition to the soup. 
 59.--VENISON SOUP. 
 Cut all the meat off a forequarter and shoulder of venison,
put it into a pot with two gallons of water, a large onion, a
head of celery, and some salt. Simmer it 
 very  slowly for forty-eight hours. Break all the
bones and put them in an earthen pot just covered with water; add
a little salt, cloves, mace, and red pepper. Place
the pot in the oven, set in a larger vessel of water, and let them stew
as long as the soup. 
 Strain the soup clear, and add the juice of the bones. Color
the soup with a little flour and a lump of butter as large as a
walnut, browned in the frying-pan. Boil it up quickly, and throw in half
a pint of port wine.   60.--TURTLE SOUP. *  
 Hang up the turtle by the hind fins, cut off the head, and
allow it to drain. 
 Cut off the fore fins; separate the callipash (upper shell) from the
callipee (under shell), beginning at the hind fins. Cut off the fat
which will be found adhering to the callipash and to the lean meat of
the callipee. Then cut off the hind fins. Take off the lean meat from
the callipee and from the fins, and cut it into pieces two inches square and
put into a stewpan. The callipash, callipee, and fins, must be held in scalding
(not boiling) water for a few minutes, which will cause the shell to
detach easily. 
 Cut the callipash and callipee into pieces six inches square, which put into
a stock-pot with some light veal stock. Let it boil until the
meat is tender, and then take it out into cold water; free the
meat from the bones, and cut it into pieces an inch square.
Return the bones into the stock and let it boil gently for two
hours, strain it off, and it is then fit for use. 
 Cut the fins across into pieces about 
 *This receipt is a most excellent one, and is in constant use by the party who favored us with it; and we may add, that some thousands of pounds weight of turtle pass through his hands every year.    an inch wide, boil them in stock with an
onion, two or three cloves, a fagot of parsley and
thyme, a sprig of sweet basil and marjoram. When tender
take them out and add this stock to the other. 
 Take the lean meat, put into a stewpan with a pint of Madeira,
four table-spoonfuls of chopped green shalots, two lemons sliced, a
bunch of thyme, marjoram, and savory (about two
tablespoonfuls each when chopped), one and a half tablespoonfuls of sweet
basil (chopped), and four tablespoonfuls of parsley. Pound together
a nutmeg, one dozen allspice, one blade of mace, five or
six cloves, one tablespoonful of pepper and of salt. Mix
the whole together with as much curry-powder as will lie on a shilling.
Put about two-thirds of this to the lean meat, with half a pound of
fresh butter and one quart stock. Let the whole be gently sweated
until the meat is done. 
 Take a large knuckle of ham, cut it into very small dice, put into a
stewpan with four large onions sliced, six bay-leaves, three blades of
mace, one dozen allspice, three-quarters of a pound of
butter; let it sweat until the onions are melted. Shred a small
bunch of basil, a larger one of thyme, savory, and
marjoram; throw these into the onions, and keep them as green as
possible: when sweated sufficiently, add flour according to your
judgment sufficient to thicken the soup. Add by degrees the stock in
which the callipash and callipee were boiled, and the seasoning stock
from the lean meat. Boil for an hour; run through a tammy, and add
salt, cayenne, and lemon juice to palate. Then put in the
meat; let it all boil gently about half an hour; and if more wine
be required, it must be boiled before being added to the soup. This is for a
turtle of from forty to fifty pounds. It should, however, be recollected
that the animal is of various weight--from a chicken-turtle of forty
pounds to some hundreds--and the condiments must be apportioned accordingly. It
should invariably be made the day before it is wanted.   61.--MOCK
TURTLE. 
 Half a calf's head will be quite sufficient, even if it be
small, to provide soup enough for a moderate party, as it will fill a tureen of
two quarts; but it must be fresh and 
 unstripped  of the skin, which is the most
gelatinous part. 
 Take out the brains; clean the head carefully in hot
water, by squeezing it with the hand to press out the blood, and leave it
afterwards for an hour in cold water. Then put it into five or six
quarts of warm water along with two pounds of veal, two pounds of
delicate pickled pork, chiefly fat, a roasted onion or two
stuck full of cloves, and the thinly pared rind of a lemon,
together with a large bundle of savory pot-herbs, two slices
carrots, and a head of celery. Let this boil for two hours; then
take up the head and the pork. The head must be stripped
of its skin, and the brain, tongue, and eye taken out; let
the bones of the head be broken and returned to the soup, and
boil two hours longer--the brains being made into forcemeat
balls, the tongue skinned and sliced; the black part of the eye
should also be taken out, and the remainder minced; the skin being cut
into pieces of little more than an inch square. While the stock is
boiling, put into a saucepan a small quantity of fresh butter, with some
onions sliced thin, a little basil, marjoram, and
parsley, a very small quantity of thyme, three bay-leaves, two
blades of mace, a few allspice; sweat all these well over the
fire; when done, add sufficient flour to thicken the soup. Stir in the
boiling stock by degrees to avoid its being lumpy; let it boil gently
for an hour, then rub it through a tammy, set it over the fire; when it boils
add the meat. About ten minutes before you serve, season the soup  to your taste with salt, a small quantity of
cayenne pepper, a couple of spoonfuls of soy, a good squeeze of
lemon-juice, together with nearly a pint of either Madeira or
Sherry. Serve with two lemons upon a plate, cut in half, as some
people like the soup to be somewhat acid. Mushrooms are sometimes
added. 
 The soup will take at least seven or eight hours in preparation. A
calf's head requires half its own weight of meat to make
the broth of proper quality.   62.--NEAT'S FEET SOUP. 
 Take two neat's feet, cut them as you do a calf's head:
take five pints of any sort of broth, the juice and rind
of one lemon, some parsley and herbs chopped fine; send
these to the oven; when it comes from the oven, put in a pint of strong
gravy and a cup of white wine, some hard eggs and
forcemeat balls; season with cayenne pepper and salt. 
 To these an excellent addition will be found in one pound of the belly part
of very delicate pickled pork; for it will improve the flavor of the
soup, and, if cut neatly into bits, will taste nearly as rich, and quite as
savory, as the fat of the head, or the gelatinous parts of
the feet. 
 Any of these receipts for mock turtle may be also made from
pig's face and pettitoes; and in most country-houses, as well as at
sea--where pigs are generally kept for fresh meat--the
head is commonly made into soup in imitation of turtle. 
 It has become unfashionable among first-rate cooks to put those 
 egg-balls,  formerly so common, into
mock-turtle; but as they are still used by those of the old school, we
here add their mode of preparation:-- 
 Take out the yolks of some hard-boiled eggs, and beat them in
a mortar with a very little salt and cayenne, and make them into
a paste with the white of a raw egg. Roll the paste into
balls not larger than marbles, put them into the soup, and boil for ten
minutes.   63.--LA TORTUE--TURTLE SOUP. (Ude's Receipt, most carefully
revised.) *  
 This soup will be made with less difficulty if you cut off the head
of the turtle the preceding day. 
 In the morning open the turtle: which is done by leaning heavily with
your knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut it off all round.
Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c., may run out.
Then cut the flesh off along the spine, with your knife sloped towards the
bones, for fear of touching the gall, which sometimes escapes the
eye. When you have obtained all the flesh which is about the members, wash it
clean and let it drain. 
 Have ready a large vessel full of boiling water on the fire, put in
the shells, and when you perceive that they come off easily, take them out of
the water, and prick all the shells of the back, belly, fins,
head, &c. Boil the back and belly till you can take off the
bones, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently
done, as they must boil again in the sauce. When these latter come off
easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together,
and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer
parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be
used to moisten the broth. All the flesh of the interior parts, the four
legs and head, must be sweated in the following manner:-- 
 Lay a few slices of ham on the bottom 
 *In perfecting the above receipt for turtle soup, which the author
can without vanity assert, is the  best  if not the only 
 authentic and practical  one in print, the author has
bestowed his utmost care and attention. When in manuscript he obtained a very
high price for it.    of a very large stewpan.
Lay over the ham two or three knuckles of veal, according to the
size of the turtle, and over the veal the inside flesh of the
turtle, and the members over the whole. Then partly moisten it with the
water in which you have boiled the shell, and sweat it thoroughly. You
can ascertain if the meat be thoroughly done, by thrusting your knife
into the fleshy part of the meat. If no blood issue, moisten it again
with the liquor in which the bones, &c., have been boiling: put in a
large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a
turtle: sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme,
winter savory, two or three bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful
of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with
six cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. Observe that you must only
put in the bunch of parsley and the stalks of the herbs, as you
must keep the tender part of the leaves to make a purée of herbs,
to introduce in the sauce when finished. 
 With respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and
when done, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their
appearance only when the sauce is absolutely completed. 
 When the flesh is also completely done, drain it on the dish, and make a
white thickening, very thin, for turtle soup must not be much
thickened; when the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a
good color, moisten it with the liquor drained through a silk sieve, and turn
the sauce over the fire till it boils. 
 Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin, and then
put the stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off all the white
scum, and all the fat and oil, that rise on the surface of the
sauce. By this time all the softer parts will be cold enough; cut them
about an inch or two square, without waste, throw the whole into the
sauce, which must simmer gently. Then try them again; for if done
enough, they are not to be kept on the fire any longer. Skim off all the
fat and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stalks,
sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter
savory, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green
onions, and a large onion cut in four pieces, with a few leaves of
mace; put them in a stewpan, with about a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter. Let this simmer on a slow fire, till they are quite melted, then
pour in one bottle of good Madeira wine, adding a small bit of
sugar, and let this boil gently for one hour. When done, rub this
through a tammy, and put it into the sauce. Let this boil till no
white scum rises: then take, with a skimmer, all the bits of
turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan; when
you have all out, pour the sauce over the bits of turtle, through
a tammy, and proceed as follows:-- 
 Make some quenelles à tortue (turtle quenelles), which being
substitutes for eggs do not require to be very delicate. They are made
in the following manner: Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal,
about one pound, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or
fat, and soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of
bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into
a mortar with the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder,
a little butter, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, a
little cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the
whole very fine. Then thicken the mixture with two whole eggs, and the
yolk of another. 
 Next try this farce or stuffing in boiling hot water, to
ascertain its consistency; if you find it too thin, add the yolk of an
egg. When the stuffing is perfected, 
take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole
cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg or smaller:
poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard drain on a
sieve, and put it into the turtle. You must make two sorts of quenelles,
white and green, those with parsley green, and the other half
white. 
 Before you send up, squeeze the juice of two or three lemons,
with a little cayenne pepper, and pour it into the soup. The fins may be
served as a plat d'entrée, or side dish, with a little turtle
sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle in the
hot-water bath, and serve the members entire with a matelotte
sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks'-combs, quenelles, &c.
When either lemon-juice or cayenne pepper have been
introduced, no boiling must take place. It is necessary to observe, that the
turtle prepared a day before it is used is generally preferred, the
flavor being more uniform. When lemon juice is used be very cautious
that the lemons are good; a musty lemon will spoil all the
turtle, and too much will destroy the flavor. 
 Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve
the green fat in a separate stewpan, and likewise, when the
turtle is entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve
each time. You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first,
it will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break all
the rest into rags. If you warm in a hot-water bath, the turtle
will always retain the same taste, but if you boil it often, it becomes strong
and loses the delicacy of its flavor. 
 It is not the fashion to serve eggs with turtle, but it may be
necessary to inquire whether they are preferred. 
 Some people require besides, fricandeaux, fricassees, &c., all of which
are prepared in the same manner as veal, but made with those parts of
flesh that are to be found in the turtle, four in number, two in the
legs and two in the shoulders; you may likewise make blanquette,
&c.   64.--MOCK TURTLE, ENGLISH FASHION. 
 Take a calf's head very white and very fresh,
bone the nose part of it; put the head into some warm
water to discharge the blood; squeeze the flesh with your hand, to
ascertain that it is all out. Mind, the water should never be too hot
for you to bear your hand in it; as long as you can bear it the
blood will come out, but if you suffer it to be too hot it will turn the
head black. This method of disgorging the blood is to give the same heat
to the blood as when the animal was alive, and if your hand will bear
the heat it shows that the blood may circulate in the veins, but if the
water be too hot the blood will curdle, as it does in black pudding.
When well disgorged, blanch the head in boiling water; when firm,
put it into cold water, and make a blanc to boil the head, as
follows:--Cut half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of beef suet, an
onion stuck with a clove, and two slices of lemon; add to
these slices of carrot, a bunch of parsley, green onions,
thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, salt and pepper;
put all these into a vessel, with water enough to contain the
head; tie the head tightly in a clean towel, put it in the blanc,
and boil two hours and a half; observe that it be not overdone; let it cool in
the liquor, then make the sauce in the following manner:-- 
 Put into a stewpan a pound of ham cut in slices, put over the
ham two knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two
carrots; moisten with some of the broth in which you have boiled
the head, to half the depth of the meat only: cover the stewpan,
and put it over the fire to sweat through; let the broth reduce to  a very good color, turn up the meat for fear
of burning. When you have a very good color, and you find that the glaze is
very brown, moisten with the whole of the broth from the head,
season with a large bundle of sweet herbs, viz., sweet basil,
sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, common thyme, two
cloves, a bay-leaf, a few allspice, parsley, green
onions, and a few mushrooms; let this boil together for one hour,
then drain it. 
 Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter, let it
melt over a slow fire; put to this butter as much flour as it can
receive; let it go gently over a slow fire, till the flour has acquired
a very good brown color; moisten this gradually with the broth, which
you put through a silk sieve, till you have employed it all; add half a bottle
of Madeira; let the sauce boil, that the flour may be well
done; take off all the scum and fat, and drain the sauce into a
clean stewpan large enough to contain the calf's head; boil the
whole till done, cut the calf's head into square pieces of about
an inch each; put them to boil in the sauce; season with salt and
a little cayenne pepper. The bits of calf's head should
always have the skin on one side, but you should leave none of the
meat on, which does not adhere to the skin, otherwise the
meat will break in the soup, and look unseemly. It is out of fashion now
to use eggs, but on this head the taste of the master should be
consulted, and you may make quenelles instead. 
 Observe, that you must not have the quenelles too delicate, for they would
break in the soup and spoil the look of it; the calf's head must
not be too much done; thrust your knife into the skin, and if the knife
enters and detaches itself easily, the meat is done enough. 
 Some persons will have their mock turtle green; in which case you
must do as follows: Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, mince one or two onions, add a handful of each of the
herbs described above, and some parsley, and sweat it all gently
over a slow fire. When the herbs are well done, moisten with some of the
sauce, and rub it through a tammy. Mix this with the sauce, and
the turtle will be green, without any alteration in the flavor.
Cayenne and lemon are always added when you serve up the soup. 
   65.--THE GARBURE, WITH BROWN BREAD. 
Take a knuckle of ham, perfectly sweet, a knuckle of veal, and
about six pounds of flank of beef, which put into a pan, with an
onion stuck with two cloves, a few carrots, &c.; pour
over the above two ladles of broth, and let the whole sweat over a slow
fire. When the meat is done through the middle, cover it entirely with
boiling broth, and let the whole stew for three hours. Then take one or
more cabbages, which are to be washed clean and blanched. Braise them between
layers of bacon, and moisten them with the liquor in which the sweating
has been made, strained through a silk sieve. You must observe that, if the
cabbages are not made rich and mellow, they are good for nothing. Add to the
above, either sausages, bacon, or stewed legs of geese:
mind above all things that the cabbage be not too briny, for the soup
then would not be eatable. When the cabbage and broth are stewed
enough, cut very thin slices of rye-bread: drain the cabbage in a
cloth, so that there be no fat left, then take a large deep silver dish,
lay a bed of bread, and over that one of cabbage, and moisten
them with a little broth; let them stew on a slow fire. When the
cabbage and bread are sufficiently moistened, lay on six or eight
beds more of each, and let it simmer on the stove till the bottom of the dish
is gratined, as what sticks to the bottom of the dish is most tasty and
palatable.  Send up with the ham on the
middle; the bacon, the legs of geese, and sausages on the
borders, and some broth separately. *     66.--POTAGE À LA
REINE--(Queen Soup.) (Ude's New Receipt) †  
 For twelve people take three fat chickens or pullets, which are
generally cheaper and better than fowls: skin them, take out the
lungs, wash them clean, and put them in a pan with a bunch of
parsley only; moisten the whole with good boiling broth: let it
stew for an hour, then take out the chickens: soak the crumb of two
penny loaves in the broth; take off the flesh of the chickens,
and pound it with the yolks of three or four eggs boiled
hard, and the crumb of bread which has been sufficiently soaked
in the broth. Rub the whole through a tammy; then put a quart of
cream on the fire, and keep stirring it continually till it boils. Pour
it into the soup. It is not so liable to curdle as when the other method is
used, and it tastes more of the chickens. If you think proper to add
either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let it be stewed in
broth beforehand, and pour it into the soup only when quite done. When
you have a great dinner, and fowls are very dear, use the fillets for
the first-course dishes, and make the soup with the legs only; the soup
is as good, but not quite so white, as when made with the fillets. 
 67.--RICE CREAM. (Ude.) 
 This is flour of rice, which you make yourself in the following
manner. Take a pound of rice, well washed in different waters, and dr
ained and wiped with a clean towel. Let it get quite dry, 
 *This soup is never seen in this country; it requires a very deep and very large dish. 
 †Formerly I used roasted chicken to make this
potage, but I have found this new method cheaper, and not so subject to curdle
as the other method. 
 then pound and shake it through a sieve. Take one or
two spoonfuls of this flour, and dilute it with broth, rather
cold than hot. All this time have some broth on the fire; throw the
flour of rice thus diluted into the broth, and keep stirring till
you find the soup is not too thick and may boil without the rice
burning. This same kind of rice-flour may serve for soufflés, or
puffs, of the second course.  68.--MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 This soup, if well made, gives general satisfaction. Take a calf's
head, thoroughly scraped and cleaned, the skin remaining on;
place it in a soup pot; to this add that part of the hand of pickled
pork which is free from bones, the fattest end, observing that it
is proper to soak it well in water previous to using; put in sweet
herbs, a couple of onions, a head of celery, if large, a few
truffles and morels, two if small, pounded mace and
pepper; add plenty of water, without quite filling the saucepan;
boil slowly, until the meat has become tender, then remove it, and cut
the meat from the bone into square pieces; break the bones
and put them again into the soup; let it simmer for four or five hours, then
place it where it can quickly cool, remove the fat and strain the soup;
thicken with flour and butter; add three table-spoonfuls of
Harvey's sauce, four or five glasses of Sherry or Madeira,
and squeeze a whole lemon into it; add the meat of the head
and the pork cut into well shaped pieces; conclude with egg
balls, or force-meat, or both, warm it and serve; it will be found a
delicious soup.   69.--MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 
 Blanch half a calf's head sufficiently to draw out the
bones; cut off the ear and the tongue; take off the
skin of the tongue, lay all separate until cold, and strain off
the liquor, and add it to your veal or second stock; cut the
meat into  large square dice, put it into a
stewpan with your already prepared stock, and stew it until tender,
strain off some of the stock; get another stewpan, cut about one pound
of lean York or Westphalia ham, one pound of lean veal, a good
fagot of basil and knotted-marjoram, two or three blades of
mace, six or seven cloves, two bay-leaves, four onions,
the parings of a few mushrooms, half a pound of butter; fry them
for some time a nice light brown, dry all up with flour, then add your
stock you have previously strained from the cut pieces; if too thick add
more stock; let all boil for some time, keeping it stirred with a wooden
spoon; when boiled sufficient, strain it through a tammy or tammyy-sieve into
the stewpan that has the cut pieces of the head; boil all together;
season with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, juice of
lemon and white wine; if you wish to preserve the old fashion, by
having forcemeat balls, eggs, &c., refer for them to the
previous receipt; add them to it when they are blanched. I only put
hard-boiled eggs, and, if I have any, a few quenelles. 
 70.--HARE SOUP. 
 An old hare is fitted only for soup or jugging. To render it into
soup let it be cleaned, cut into pieces, add a pound and a half or two pounds
of beef, to which there is little or no fat; place it at the
bottom of the pan; add two or three slices of ham or bacon, or a
little of both, a couple of onions, and some sweet herbs; add
four quarts of 
 boiling  water, let it stew to shreds, strain
off the soup and take away the fat; reboil it, add a spoonful of soy or
Harvey's sauce, send to the table with a few force-meat
balls.   71.--HARE SOUP, OR WILD DUCK SOUP. 
 Take a brace of Canadian hares or of wild ducks, and cut them
up. Cook one moderately in an earthen pot with as much water as will
cover it; some cloves, salt and black pepper; the pot
being set in a large vessel full of water, in a close oven. 
 Simmer the other till it is done completely to rags in a gallon of
water, and season it with cloves, salt, and black
pepper. 
 Strain the soup clear and make forcemeat balls of the residue, with
the yolk of an egg, some fine herbs, grated lemon peel,
and a little stale bread. 
 The hare or duck cooked in the earthen pot must be cut in
pieces two inches square. Color the soup with browning, throw in the
forcemeat balls and cut meat; boil it up quick, and add half a
pint of port wine.   72.--VELOUTÉ. 
 Take the cuttings and remains of any joint of fowls and veal
you may happen to have, weigh four pounds, and put into a large stewpan, with
some onions, carrots, parsley, scallions, three bay
leaves, three cloves, and a ladleful of stock; put your
stewpan upon a brisk fire, skim well, and be careful the meat does not
stick; when enough reduced add as much stock as will nearly fill the
stewpan, salt it well, give it a boil, skim, and then put it on the side
of the fire to simmer for two hours, after which strain it through a tammy;
make a white 
 roux;  stir into it for ten minutes a few
champignons, then pour on it, a little at a time, the above liquor, let it boil
up once, skim, and set it again by the side of the fire for an hour and a half,
remove all fat, strain again and then put by for use. The velouté
should be colorless, the whiter it is the better.   73.--PIGEON SOUP. 
 Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons you can get, roast them only
sufficient to warm them through; cut the meat from the bones;
flour the latter well, and pound them in a mortar; stew them in  a pint and a half of good gravy, add a piece
of butter rolled in flour, a bunch of tarragon,
chervil, a few onions, shalots, parsley, and basil,
a few turnips, and carrots sliced; season with cayenne and
one blade of mace. Boil slowly two hours, pour, and pass through a
cullender. Pulp through a tammy, and then with the flesh of the
pigeons put them into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour and serve. 
 74.--SNAPPING TURTLE SOUP. 
 Clean and dissect your snapping turtle; add water according to
size, taking care not to put in enough to thin the soup. Stew six or eight
hours. Add a teacupful of browned flour, four ounces of butter,
six eggs, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of mace, one
ounce of allspice, half a pint of sherry wine; boil up and
serve. 
 Soup may be made in the same way of the "couter" of the South. Forcemeat
balls made of veal are usually added, with the eggs found in
the couter.   75.--SAVORY JELLY. 
 Take half a pig's head, boil it for one hour, then cut the
meat into small pieces, put it again into the saucepan with half the
liquor it was boiled in, add a little seasoning of pepper, salt,
and mace, boil another hour; turn it into a mould to get cold. The above
is excellent made from calf's head, which in many country-places
can be bought for a trifle; but the mould should then be lined with hard
boiled eggs, cut into slices, and a little parsley added to the
seasoning. This is an economical breakfast or supper dish. 
 76.--PARTRIDGE SOUP. 
 When you have a brace of partridges which prove to be remarkably old,
convert them into soup. Skin and cut them up, cut a handsome slice of
ham as lean as possible and divide it in four, or cut as many thin
slices, put them in the pan, add the partridges with an onion
sliced, some celery, and four ounces of butter; brown nicely
without burning, put them into the stewpan with one quart and a pint of
water, throw in a few white peppers whole, a shank of
mutton, salt it to palate, strain, add stewed celery,
fried bread, and previous to its boiling skim very clean and serve
up.   77.--VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 Although many of the following soups are made purely of vegetables, yet
some--and those generally the best--are made on a foundation of some sort of
meat-broth in which the roots are stewed.  
 The 
 broth  is therefore the 
 real stock  on which these soups are made,
though each bears the name of the vegetable which gives it flavor; but
when made 
 solely from herbs, roots, and vegetables,  and
used as the basis for the formation of 
 soupes-maigres,  the stock is then composed of
every sort in season which can, by long stewing, be reduced to a pulp,
in which every species of savory herbs--such as chervil,
tarragon, and marjoram--are mixed, together with a few
chilis, shalots, and a head of garlic, seasoned with mace,
whole peppers, salt, and mushroom ketchup; to which may be
added a little curry-powder. The pulp is then strained; and,
being thus rather highly seasoned, may be kept for a few days, and used in aid
of any other soup. It must be left to simmer during several hours; and should
it need browning, some sliced onions, fried in butter, will be
all that is necessary. 
 Thus all the roots and most of such vegetables as can be easily made into 
 purées,  and combined with any sort of
broth, will, in this manner, make excellent soup of different
denominations,  though all founded upon the same
meat-stock. The gravy of beef is always preferred for
savory soups, and that of veal or fowls for the more
delicate white soups: to which from half a pint to a pint of
cream, or, if that cannot be had, the same quantity of milk and
the yolks of a couple of raw eggs should be added for every two
quarts of soup; remembering, however, that the latter will not impart the
richness of cream. 
 Collect whatever vegetables are in season, take equal quantities,
turnips, carrots, cabbage, spinach, celery,
parsley, onions, a little mint, &c., add plenty of
herbs, cut them fine, put them into the stewpan, in which has previously
been placed some oil; stew gently until the vegetables become tender,
then add two quarts of boiling water; stew a quarter of an hour and
serve. 
 Some cooks advocate the introduction of peas, green or white,
to this soup: where they are used, they must be boiled until tender in very
little water, then mashed into a very loose paste; the vegetables
having been scalded are then added, and two hours will suffice for stewing;
season it with salt and pepper. 
 Be careful that it does not burn while cooking, or the whole is spoiled. 
 78.--TOMATO SOUP. 
 Stew half a peck of tomatoes slowly an hour and a half in a pint of
water; pass them through a tamis; add half a gallon of veal or
mutton broth. Pass through a tamis enough stale bread to thicken
the soup. Fry twelve onions brown, and strain them the same way. Add
them to the soup with a bunch of fine herbs, and seasoning to
taste. Boil up well, and serve.   79.--BEAN SOUP. 
 Soak two quarts of dried white beans all night and put on the soup
early. To five pounds of beef allow one of bacon cut small. Boil
and skim it and put in the beans, drained, and a head of celery cut
small. Boil slowly till the beans are melted and the soup is done; strain
it, and serve with toasted bread.   80.--ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH
GREEN PEAS. 
 Make a soup of roots, and when strained, boil a pint of green peas in
the liquor. Choose some middling-sized asparagus, cut them in pieces
about three inches long, blanch them in boiling water, and then throw
them into cold water; drain them and tie them in small bunches, split
the tops and boil them with the peas. When done make a purée of
them and mix it with the root soup, and garnish with the asparagus. Good
meat-broth may be used instead of the root soup.   81.--SOUP DE
L'ASPERGE. 
 Cut into thin slices half a pound of bacon, lay them in the bottom of
the stewpan, cut into lumps six pounds of lean beef and roll it well in
flour, cover the pan close, shake occasionally until the gravy is
all drawn, then add half a pint of old ale and two quarts of
water; throw in some whole peppers and a spoonful of salt,
stew gently for an hour, skim the fat, and when an hour has elapsed
strain off the soup, then put in it some spinach, two cabbage
lettuces, the leaves of white beet, a little mint, powdered sweet
aroma and sorrel, boil them, then put in the tops of asparagus
cut small; when they are tender the soup is done; serve up hot with a French
roll in the middle.   82.--POTAGE À LA JULIENNE--(Julien Soup.) 
 Take some carrots and turnips, and turn them ribbon like, a
few heads of celery, some leeks and onions, and cut them
all into fillets, thus-------. Then take  about
two ounces of butter and lay it at the bottom of the stewpan, with the
roots over the butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring
gently; moisten them with broth and gravy of veal, and let them
boil on the corner of the stove; skim all the fat off, and put in a
little sugar to take off the bitter taste of the vegetables: you may in
summer-time add green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans,
some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter-time, the taste of the
vegetables being too strong, you must blanch them, and immediately after stew
them in the broth: if they were fried in butter their taste would
also be too strong. Add bread, as above, in the tureen.   83.--THE
JULIENNE WITH CONSOMMÉ--(or Broth of Fowl.) 
 The same as above, only you moisten it with consommé of fowl,
and put in the back of a roasted chicken, from the preceding day, which
stew with the roots; when boiled for one hour, take it out of the broth,
and send up with the bread, as above.   84.--JULIENNE, OR VEGETABLE
BROTH. 
 Cut various kinds of vegetables in pieces, celery, carrots,
turnips, onions, &c., and having put two ounces of
butter in the bottom of a stewpan, put the vegetables on the top of the
butter, together with any others that may be in season; stew or fry them
over a slow fire, keeping them stirred, and adding a little of the stock
occasionally; soak small pieces of crust of bread in the remainder of
the broth or stock, and when the vegetables are nearly stewed,
add them, and warm the whole up together.   85.--SOYER'S JULIENNE SOUP. 
 This soup is entirely the hereditary property of France, and is supposed to
be so called from the months of June and July, when all vegetables are in full
season; and to make it in reality as originally made, a small quantity of every
description of vegetables should be used, including lettuce,
sorrel, and tarragon; however, some few sorts of vegetables,
mixed together, make a most estimable soup. Weigh half a pound of the
vegetables in fair proportions to each other, that is, carrots,
turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which cut into
small fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness of a trussing-needle;
when done, wash dry, and pass them in butter and sugar as before,
add two quarts of clear soup, adding, just before it is done, a little
sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil or peas, if
handy, but it will be excellent without either.   86.--A SPRING SOUP. 
 The following is recommended for purifying the blood, and consequently
clearing the complexion:--Take a handful of fresh sorrel and a handful of
water-cresses; cut them up fine, but do not chop them; put them into
about two quarts of boiling water, adding a carrot cut up in
small pieces, three or four potatoes, cut in quarters, two slices of
bread (if of a sixpenny loaf), also cut up; pepper and
salt to taste. Boil well till the soup assumes a consistency, which it
will do as the vegetables and bread dissolve in it. Stir it frequently,
and it will prove a very palatable soup. With a moderate fire it may be
prepared in about two hours. The liquor from any boiled meat may be used
instead of plain water.   87.--MACARONI, WITH CONSOMMÉ,
OR STOCK-BROTH. 
 Take a quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, and boil it in
water, till it is nearly done. Strain well, and put it into a rich
consommé to boil. Let it be  well done;
grate some Parmesan cheese, which send up separately in a plate. 
 88.--CABBAGE SOUP. 
 Take four or six pounds of beef, boil with it some black
pepper whole for three hours, cut three or four cabbages in quarters, boil
them until they are quite tender, turn them into a dish, and serve all
together.   89.--MACARONI SOUP. 
 Take a quart of gravy soup: break two ounces of Naples
macaroni into pieces of little more than an inch long, putting them, by
degrees, into a small portion of the boiling soup, to prevent them from
sticking together, and let them boil until quite tender, but not soft or
pulpy--from fifteen to twenty minutes if quite fresh, but nearly half an hour
if at all stale. Vermicelli is used in the same manner. They will
improve the consistence of the soup if the quantity above stated be added: but
it is useless and does not look well to see, as at some tables, only a few
strings of it floating in the tureen. The flavor will also be much improved if
a small quantity of Parmesan cheese be either melted in it, or grated
and served up separately.   90.--SOUP À LA CRECI, OR CARROT
SOUP. 
 Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, three onions, four
turnips, twelve carrots, the outer side red only, a head of
celery, a fagot of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, six
cloves, a bay-leaf, and half a pound of salt butter; fry all well
down in a stewpan until they get a little brown, then add some second
stock, and stew until all the roots are quite tender, then rub it
through a tammy sieve or tammy cloth with two long spoons; if very thick, add
more stock. Season with cayenne and black pepper, and
salt, and a good bit of sugar; send up on a napkin some nice
fried bread cut in small dice, and not greasy.   91.--GREEN PEA
PORRIDGE. (A most delicious potage.) 
 Green peas three pints, milk three pints, butter
one-quarter of a pound, flour enough for thickening. 
 Boil the peas in just water enough to cook them until they are
tender; then pour in the milk; when it boils, add the butter and
flour rubbed well together; let it boil long enough to cook the
flour; season with pepper and salt, and serve hot. 
 92.--GREEN PEA SOUP. 
 Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound
of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut into small dice,
two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart of
cold water, and with the hands rub all well together; then pour off the
water, cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a sharp fire, stirring
the contents round occasionally; when very tender, add two tablespoonfuls of
flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with your spoon against
the sides of the stewpan; add two quarts of stock, or broth from
the Pot-au-feu, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a little pepper
and salt, if required; boil all well together five minutes, when rub it
through a tammy or hair sieve; then put it into another stewpan, with a pint of
boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it into your
tureen. It must not be too thick; serve with croutons of bread. 
 93.--WINTER PEA SOUP. 
 Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a stewpan with half a
pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two pounds of
veal or beef, cut into small 
pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add a gallon
of water, with a little salt and sugar; place it upon the
fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side until the peas are boiled
to a purée, and the water has reduced to half; then take out the
meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the bacon, keeping
it hot; rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put it into another
stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may also be served in the
tureen if approved of. Maigre pea soup may also be made by omitting the
meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk,
and omitting a quart of water.   94.--LEEK, OR ONION
SOUP. 
 The liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will do very well
for this broth. Mix a spoonful or two of oatmeal, according to
the quantity of broth, in cold water, very smooth, the same as if
for gruel; add a little of the broth, by degrees, until the whole is
incorporated; then boil the liquor with any quantity of leeks or
onions--both or either--until it becomes of the consistence of
cream. Or, omit the oatmeal, and substitute flour,
stirring the soup very hard for five minutes; and when you are about
taking it from the fire, stir in the yolks of two raw eggs beat up with
a little more broth, and serve it immediately. 
 Onions, peeled, pared, and cut into pieces, then shred into a pan and
fried in either oil or butter, without any broth, but
simply having boiling water poured over them, and some toasted
bread, seasoned merely with pepper and salt, are considered
very refreshing when thus made into a soup, and much used by ladies throughout
Europe after the fatigues of a ball.   95.--POTATO SOUP MAIGRE. 
 Take some large, mealy potatoes; peel and cut them into small slices with
an onion; boil them in three pints of water till tender, and then
pulp them through a colander; add a small piece of butter, a
little cayenne pepper and salt, and, just before the soup is
served, two spoonfuls of good cream. The soup must not be allowed to
boil after the cream has been put into it.   96.--TOMATO SOUP. 
 Wash, scrape, and cut small the red part of three large carrots,
three heads of celery, four large onions, and two large
turnips; put them into a saucepan with a table-spoonful of
butter, and half a pound of lean new ham; let them stew very
gently for an hour, then add three quarts of brown gravy soup, and some
whole black pepper, with eight or ten ripe tomatoes; let it boil
an hour and a half, and pulp it through a sieve; serve it with fried
bread cut in dice.   97.--SOUP SORREL--A SUMMER SOUP. 
 Take a good quantity of sorrel and mix with it the top leaves of
beet-root; boil them thoroughly; press them enough to extract all
the water, and chop them until they are almost a paste; when they
are quite cold, add the coldest spring water attainable, and mix until
rather thicker than cream; cut in thin slices two cucumbers
steeped in a mixture of vinegar and a little cayenne; boil three
eggs hard, and cut them in very small pieces; now, having chopped the
green ends of young onions small, and added to the paste, pour
over cream to your taste, and then add the sliced cucumber and
boiled egg; serve up garnished with clean pieces of ice. 
 98.--TOMATO SOUP. 
 Slice two onions and fry them in butter until brown; remove
them and fry two dozen tomatoes just sufficient to heat  them through, then put them into a stewpan with their
gravy and the onions, add a head of celery and a
carrot sliced; stew gently for half an hour, add three pints of
gravy, stew an hour and a half, pulp the whole of the vegetables
through a sieve, season with white pepper, salt, and
cayenne, serve with sippets of toasted bread cut in shapes. 
 99.--PEPPER POT. (English.) 
 Put in a stewpan three quarts of water; to this add celery,
turnips, carrots, lettuces, cut small; add the bones of
cold roast meat of any description; half a pound of bacon, the
same weight of salted pork; stew gently until the meat is tender,
taking care to skim when it first boils. 
 Boil half a peck of spinach and rub it through a colander; take the
bones out of the soup and add the spinach; with it the meat of
a lobster or crab minced; season with plenty of cayenne
pepper, and salt to taste. 
 Suet dumplings may be boiled with it, or a fowl, but this is
matter of taste. Mutton or beef may be substituted for
bacon or pork; this will be obvious when it is understood that a
pepper pot is presumed to consist of an equal proportion of flesh,
fish, fowl and vegetables.   100.--PURÉE OR
TURNIP SOUP. 
 Get a bunch of turnips, pare them and cut them in thin slices; one
head of white celery, one onion; fill up your stewpan with
good second white stock, boil them until quite tender, then pass it all
through a tammy by rubbing it with wooden spoons, or a tammy sieve; season with
sugar, cayenne and salt. Send up fried bread, as
for former soups; add half a pint of cream the last thing. 
 101.--SAUTÉ SOUP. 
 Cut carrots, and turnips, and onions, and
celery, as straws, about one inch long, quite thin; the carrots
you will trim, using only the red part, the yellow that is left use for your
stock pot; cut your onions in quarters, then cut them the size
endways, blanch them for two or three minutes, strain them on the back of a
hair sieve to drain; then add them to the quantity of soup required, allowing
half a pint to each person; therefore, as you must reduce it to have the flavor
of your vegetables, allow a pint more, reducing it to the quantity you require;
season it with lump sugar, cayenne pepper and salt; be
sure and not go to the extreme.   102.--SPRING SOUP. 
 As sauté; the same roots cut differently, and add, if to be had,
spinach, cabbage-lettuce, a very little sorrel, as it
turns acid on the stomach, all cut rather small, tarragon,
chervil, green asparagus, young peas, cucumbers;
cut the asparagus about one inch long, cut the tarragon and
chervil a little, and a few French beans cut; use your
consommé stock as before, boiling all your green parts
particularly green in water a few minutes, leaving them to be
sufficiently done in your stock; if you have a cauliflower
boiled, pick a few small pieces and put in the soup-tureen; the boiling soup
when poured in will make it hot; season as before.   103.--WINTER VEGETABLE
SOUP. 
 Take carrots, turnips, and the heart of a head of
celery, cut into dice, with a dozen button onions; half boil them in
salt and water, with a little sugar in it; then throw them into
the broth; and, when tender, serve up the soup: or use rice,
dried peas and lentils, and pulp them into the soup to
thicken it. 
 With many of these soups, small suet dumplings, very lightly made,
and not larger than an egg, are boiled either in broth or
water, and put into the tureen  just before
serving, and are by most persons thought an improvement, but are more usually
put into plain gravy-soup than any other, and should be made light
enough to swim in it. 
 Such are the chief soups made of vegetables on a foundation of meat;
both those made solely of vegetables, without any intermixture of meat
broth, may be made into very palatable soups by using the vegetable
stock.   FISH SOUPS. 
 Notwithstanding the quantity of excellent fish, this nutritious and
economical viand is not often introduced at table in the form of soup. Nothing
could be more easy than to multiply receipts for an almost endless variety:
those that follow will, however, show how much may be done with many kinds of
fish which are not in very high estimation. 
 When not wanted as 
 soupe-maigre,  the foundation, or stock,
though called "fish-soup," is always better if made of meat, and
veal is generally preferred. We, therefore, here add a receipt for its
composition, as it may be applied to any kind of fish; though, in those
which we shall hereafter specify, it is not mentioned, as they are all intended
to be 
 maigre.    104.--STOCK FOR FISH SOUP. 
 Take a dozen flounders, or any small flat fish, and the same
number of perch; gut and clean them carefully; put them into a
stewpan with two quarts of strong veal-broth; add a few slices of
lean ham, two or three carrots, celery, and onions
cut in slices, some sweet herbs and salt, with a little
cayenne; stew till the fish will pass through a coarse sieve;
then return it into the stewpan, with a good lump of butter and some
flour to thicken it; add a couple of large glasses of white wine,
and a large spoonful of garlic vinegar. The gravy from potted
herrings, anchovies, or a little Oude sauce, will also
improve the flavor. 
 This stock, if once reboiled, will, in cold weather, keep well for a
month; or, if served as soup, the quantity may of course be reduced according
to the number of the party intended to partake of it, and it will be found
excellent. Indeed, any species of fish may be made into soup in the same
manner. If meant to be 
 browned,  the onions should be fried, and a
good spoonful of mushroom ketchup or India soy be added; and red
wine will be better than either sherry or Madeira. But if
left 
 white,  cream should be substituted for
ketchup and soy; a glassful of ginger wine will answer the
purpose of red wine.   105.--LOBSTER SOUP. 
 If prepared fish-stock be not used, the stock of this soup may
be made of any fish not of sufficient consequence to be dressed in any
other way. Clean and cut them in pieces, take the meat out of one or two
lobsters, cut it into small pieces, and lay it aside; break the shell
and add it to the fish for the stock, which should be boiled
gently for several hours; take the coral of the lobster, pound it
in a mortar, with a small piece of the stock, partly pounded, and make
it up into forcemeat-balls, with a little chopped parsley,
bread-crumbs, and an egg. When the stock is sufficiently
done, strain it, thicken it with butter and flour, or cream: warm
the lobster in it, and send it up, cut small, with the
forcemeat-balls. Season it also delicately, but yet sufficiently to give
it flavor, which can be imparted by any of the compound sauces so commonly
advertised.   106.--LOBSTER SOUP. 
 To one large hen lobster scalded and cleaned, take two quarts of
strong calf's  feet broth; pound the
shells, small claws, eggs, fat and coral in a mortar, and
simmer three hours in the soup. Cut the tails into square pieces, and fry them
brown. Make the claws into forcemeat-balls with the yolks of two
eggs, grated lemon-peel, parsley, thyme, a very
little olives, and grated biscuit, and fry them brown. Boil them
up in the soup 
 quickly  in five minutes; add half a pint of port
wine, and lemon to taste; with salt, pepper, and a 
 little  mace. (This is the best soup on
record.)   107.--LOBSTER SOUP. (English.) 
 Extract the meat from the shells of four hen lobsters,
which have been boiled: put the spawn aside, beat the fins and small claws in a
mortar; then place both in a saucepan, with two quarts of water, until
the whole goodness of the fish has been drawn; then strain the liquor.
Beat in a mortar the spawn, a lump of flour and butter; rub it
through a sieve into the soup previously strained; simmer without boiling, that
the color may be preserved, ten minutes; squeeze in a piece of a lemon,
with a little of the essence of anchovies. 
 When this dish is sent to table as a feature, forcemeat-balls are
served with it; they are made of minced lobster, spawn, crumb of
French roll, egg, and mace pounded; roll it in
flour, and serve in the soup.   108.--PURÉE OF LOBSTER
SOUP. 
 Get two large hen lobsters, take out all the meat, chop and
pound it fine, six anchovies boned, put the shells in some second
stock to boil for some time, strain off the liquor into your pounded
lobsters, boil all until tender, rub all through a tammy, add one pint
of cream; season with cayenne pepper, a little sugar, and
salt, and lemon-juice.   109.--CLAM SOUP. 
 To the liquor of fifty clams, allow three quarts of water, and
put it on with a knuckle of veal, the bone chopped. Simmer three
hours, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, nutmeg, mace, a
table-spoonful of whole pepper, and stew an hour longer. Then strain and
add four ounces of butter rubbed in flour, and the clams
chopped in pieces. Boil a quarter of an hour and serve.   110.--OYSTER
SOUP. 
 Beard four dozen oysters, preserve the liquor in opening them,
which must be placed with the beards of the oysters in a stewpan; slice
any fish, small fresh-water fish will serve excellently well, and
adding them, stew for five or six hours; strain and thicken it, add two
spoonfuls of soy or any fish sauce, or omit it, to taste. Add the
oysters, and when they are warm through, serve.   111.--OYSTER
SOUP. 
 Get four flounders, or similar portions of any fish, four
dozen of large oysters, blanch them slightly, take off the beards and
gristle, put the beards and fish into some of your best white
stock, boil all together for several hours, add four anchovies
washed, strain all off and thicken it with flour and butter, add
one pint of cream, put in your oysters you had taken care of, the
last thing, just boiling them up in the soup; having passed it through a tammy,
season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and a small piece of
sugar.   112.--OYSTER SOUP. 
 Take fifty oysters, blanch them, but do not let them boil; strain
them through a sieve, and save the liquor. Put one-quarter pound of
butter into a stewpan; when it is melted, add six ounces of
flour; stir it over the fire for a few minutes; add the liquor from the
oysters, two quarts of veal stock, one quart of new milk;
season with salt, peppercorns, a little cayenne pepper, a
blade of mace, Harvey sauce and essence  of anchovies, a tablespoonful each; strain it through
a tammy; let it boil ten minutes; put the oysters into the tureen with a
gill of cream, and pour the boiling soup upon them.   113.--EEL
SOUP. 
 Take any number of pounds of eels, according to the quantity
required; add two-thirds water. If about three or four pounds of
eels, add one onion, a small quantity of mace, a little
pepper whole, sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of
bread; cover down close; stew till the fish separates, strain.
Toast slices of bread deep brown, but not to burn; cut into
triangular pieces or squares, a piece of carrot two inches long, cut
into four slices lengthwise, put into a tureen with the toast, pour the
soup on; boiling cream may be added thickened with a little
flour, but it should be rich enough without it.   114.--NEW ENGLAND
CHOWDER. 
 Have a good haddock, cod, or any other solid fish, cut
it in pieces three inches square, put a pound of fat salt pork in strips
into the pot, set it on hot coals, and fry out the oil. Take out
the pork, and put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of
onions in slices, then a layer of fish with strips of fat salt
pork, then another layer of onions, and so on alternately until your
fish is consumed. Mix some flour with as much water as
will fill the pot; season with black pepper and salt to your
taste, and boil it for half an hour. Have ready some crackers soaked in
water till they are a little softened; throw them into your chowder five
minutes before you take them up. Serve in a tureen.   115.--NEW ENGLAND
CHOWDER. 
 Cover the bottom of a pot with slices of boiled salt pork, with a
little onions; on this place a layer of fish in large pieces,
season with pepper, and cover it with a layer of biscuit soaked
in milk, and a layer of sliced potatoes. Put above this another layer
of pork, as before, with fish, &c., the biscuit being
on the top of all. Pour in a pint and a half of water, cover, and boil
it slowly an hour; then skim and turn it into a deep dish. Thicken the
gravy with butter rolled in flour, and parsley. 
 116.--CLAM SOUP. 
 Boil a knuckle of veal in as much water as will cover it well.
When it has boiled about half or a quarter of an hour, open half a peck of
clams by placing them over the fire, in a very small quantity of
water. Pour the juice of the clams into the pot which
contains the knuckle of veal. Boil the soup three or four hours,
seasoning it with a table-spoonful of pepper. Add no salt,
as the clam juice will have made it salt enough. When the
veal is quite tender, cut up the clams in small pieces (that is
to say, each clam in three or more pieces), and throw them into the
soup, with a quarter of a pound of butter chopped into bits. Some
persons roll the butter in flour, which they think makes it mix
with the clam juice; others use no flour, as they dislike to
detect the taste of the flour.   117.--CLAM SOUP. (Prepared by
a Dublin Lady.) 
 Put forty or fifty clams, in the shells, with as little water
as possible. When the liquor has run out from the opened shells, take the
clams out and chop them fine, with an onion, a bunch of minced
celery, and some mace and pepper. Put all in the soup, and
thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, and
if you choose, add a little milk. Simmer twenty minutes; stir in the
beaten yolks of five eggs; put bits of toasted bread into the
tureen and serve.    118.--LAKE AND POND
FISH SOUP. 
 For every person take a pound each of any fresh-water fish that can
be obtained; wash them in salt and water, and stew them with a
tomato, carrots, leeks, fried onions, and sweet
herbs, in as much water as will cover them; and let them stew until
the whole is reduced to a pulp; then strain the liquor, and boil it for
another hour until it becomes quite smooth. Then have ready some roots of any
sort that may be in season, which have been chopped small, and boiled either in
milk or water: add them to the soup, and let it simmer for
one-quarter of an hour; season it, if milk has been used, with
mace and celery, with a little cayenne; but if made solely
with water, then use Chili vinegar, soy, mushroom ketchup,
or any of the savory sauces.   FISH. 
 Fish should be well washed, scaled, and cleaned, by drawing the
entrails through a slit in the under side. The roe and liver
should be separated, washed, and cooked with the fish. The roe
proves the fish in season. Slimy fish may be scalded in salt
and water, but must be dried before cooking. 
 Fresh fish, when boiled, should be placed in cold, and
shell-fish in boiling water. 
 To keep oysters after washing them, lay them in a tub in a cool
cellar, with the deep part of the shell undermost. Sprinkle them with
salt and Indian meal, then fill the tub with cold water.
Change the water every day, and the oysters will keep fresh a
fortnight. 
 Fish should be garnished with horse-radish or parsley.
The only vegetable served with fish is potatoes. 
 119.--SALT AND FRESH-WATER FISH. 
 When boiling fish put a little salt and a little
vinegar into the water to give the fish firmness. Be
careful to let fish be well done, but not to let it break. When very
fresh, cod and whiting are very much improved by keeping a day,
and rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. Fresh-water
fish often have a muddy smell and taste, which is easily got rid of by
soaking it. After it has been thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and
water, if the fish is not too large, scald it in the same, then dry
and dress it. 
 Fish that is to be 
 boiled  must be put on the fire in cold hard
water; when it boils, skim with the greatest care; throw in a little cup of
cold water to check the extreme of heat, then keep it 
 simmering only,  lest the outside break before the
thick and inner part be done; but "crimped fish" should be put into
boiling water, and simmered a few minutes. 
 When it boils up, some cold water should be put into it to check it,
and keep it simmering. The cover should be kept on the kettle to prevent
soot falling in and discoloring the fish. Fish should be
boiled with a handful of salt, and half a teacupful of vinegar.
All fish should be taken out of the water the instant it is done,
or it will become woolly. To ascertain when it is done, the fish-plate
may be drawn up, and, if done, the meat will leave the bone. To
keep it hot, and to prevent it losing its color, the fish-plate should
be placed across the fish-kettle and a clean cloth put over the
fish. If left in the water after it is ready, fish loses
its firmness. Serve fish on a napkin. 
 It is impossible to dress fish too fresh. Some kinds will bear
keeping better than others, but none are improved by it. 
 Families who purchase a whole salmon, and like it quite fresh, should
parboil the portion not required for the day's consumption, and lay it aside in
the liquor, boiling up the whole together when wanted. By this means the curd
will set, and the fish be equally good on the  following day. The custom of serving up rich sauces, such as
lobster, is unknown in salmon countries; a little lemon
peel or white vinegar being quite sufficient, added to melted
butter. Salmon should be garnished with parsley and
scraped horseradish. 
 Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or done with egg and
bread crumbs, and then fried. Upon the dish on which the fish is
to be served should be placed a damask napkin, folded, and upon this put the
fish, with the roe and liver; then garnish the dish with
horseradish, parsley, and lemon. 
 To boil or fry fish nicely, after it is well washed, it should be put
in a cloth, and when dry, wetted with egg and bread crumbs. It
will be much improved by being wetted with egg and crumbs a second time.
Then have your pan with plenty of boiling dripping or lard, put your
fish into it, and let it fry rather quickly till it is of a nice brown
and appears done. If it is done before being nicely browned, it should be taken
from the pan, and placed on a sieve before the fire to drain and brown. If
wanted very nice, put a sheet of cap paper to receive the fish.
Should you fry your fish in oil, it obtains a much finer color
than when done in lard or dripping. Never use butter, as it makes
the fish a bad color. Garnish your dish with green or fried
parsley. 
 In broiling fish, be careful that your gridiron is clean; place it on
the fire, and when hot, rub it over with suet to hinder the fish
from sticking. The fish must be floured and seasoned before
broiling. It must be broiled over a clear fire only, and great care must be
taken that it does not burn or become smoky. 
 Broiled fish for breakfast should always be skinned, buttered, and
peppered. 
 Fish are broiled, fried, boiled, baked, stewed, in fact cooked in
every imaginable fashion; those named are the chief methods. In every kind, the
greatest attention and cleanliness must be exercised. A broken, disfigured, or
ill-cooked dish of fish presented at table, is quite sufficient to
destroy the taste for it for ever; on the contrary, when neatly done it
heightens the relish which every one possesses more or less, and imparts an
appetite where one may be wanting, while the cook is held in grateful
remembrance.   120.--MARINADE 
 Is commonly used in France for the purpose of boiling fish, which
imbibes from it a more pleasant flavor than it naturally possesses, and has
been so generally adopted by professed cooks that we here insert the
receipt:--Cut up two carrots, three onions, half a dozen shalots,
a single clove of garlic, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of
butter, a bunch of parsley, and a bundle of sweet herbs;
fry the whole for a few minutes, then add, very gradually, two bottles of any
light wine or of cider. Put in a handful of salt, two
dozen of peppercorns, the same quantity of allspice, and a couple
of cloves. Simmer the whole together for one and a half hours, strain
the liquor, and put it by for use. 
 This marinade, if carefully strained after the fish has been taken
out, will serve several times for the same purpose, adding a little
water each time. Fish dressed in it should simmer very gently, or
rather stew than boil, as it affords to mackerel, fresh herrings,
perch, roach, and any of the small river fish, the advantage of
dissolving, or so thoroughly softening their bones as to render them
more agreeable in eating. For large fish, they should be cut into
steaks before being marinaded. Instead of the wine or
cider, a quart of table-beer, a glass of  soy, one of essence of anchovies, and one of
ketchup, may be used; or a pint of vinegar and these sauces,
fennel, chives, thyme, and bay-leaves, may be added with
the wine, cider, &c. Or, choose a kettle that will suit the
size of the fish, into which put two parts water, one of light
(not sweet) white wine, a good piece of butter, some stewed
onions and carrots, pepper, salt, two or three
cloves, and a good bunch of sweet herbs; simmer one-quarter of an
hour, let it become cold, then boil the fish therein. Serve with
anchovy-sauce and a squeeze of lemon.   121.--COD FISH. 
 Fresh cod is good boiled, fried, or made into a chowder. It is too
dry a fish to broil. Salt cod should be soaked in lukewarm
water till the skin will come off easily--then take up the
fish, scrape off the skin, and put it in fresh water, and
set it on a very moderate fire, where it will keep warm without boiling, as it
hardens by boiling. It takes between three and four hours to cook it
soft--serve it up with drawn butter.   122.--TO BOIL COD FISH. 
 Crimped cod is preferable to the plain; it is likewise better cut in
slices than cooked whole; to boil it well, have the water ready boiling
with one pound of salt to every six quarts; put in your fish,
draw your fish-kettle to the corner of the fire, where let it simmer
slowly from twenty minutes to half an hour; when done, the bone in the
centre will draw out easily; if boiled too much, it would eat tough and
stringy; should the fish not be crimped, add more salt to the
water, it will cause the fish to eat firmer.   123.--COD
FISH WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 
 Boil three slices of the fish as above, drain and dress them upon a
dish without a napkin, blanch three dozen oysters, by putting them into
a stewpan, with their juice, upon the fire, move them round
occasionally, do not let them boil; as soon as they become a little firm, place
a sieve over a basin, pour in the oysters, beard them, put the liquor
again into the stewpan; when boiling, add two cloves, half a blade of
mace, six peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which
you have added a tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces,
stir well together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne
pepper, and essence of anchovies; finish with a gill of cream
or milk, add the oysters, and sauce over. The remains of
the fish may be taken from the bone and placed upon a dish, with
a little of the above sauce (to which you have added the yolks of two
eggs), then sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place it twenty
minutes in a hot oven till the bread-crumbs become brown. 
 124.--COD SOUNDS.--RAGOÛT. 
 The sounds should not be much soaked, but thoroughly cleaned. Simmer them
for a short time, broil them, having first floured them; when they are
just tender, stew them in white gravy which has been well seasoned, add
a little cream, a bit of butter, a spoonful of flour, give
it a boil, flavor with nutmeg, a small piece of lemon-peel,
and a dash of pounded mace; serve.   125.--SLICES OF COD. 
 Three slices make a small dish; put them in a baking-dish, cover them over
with some good second stock, a little essence of anchovies; when
done thicken the stock, and pass it through a tammy, pour it over your
fish, season with cayenne pepper, and salt, and lemon
juice; if for capers add them, if for maître d'hôtel,
add cream and parsley chopped fine.   126.--CODFISH AU
GRATIN. 
 This is the best mode of using the remains  of
a dressed codfish. Put some cold oyster-sauce at the bottom of a
pie-dish, then a layer of the codfish (seasoned with pepper,
salt, and an atom of nutmeg), with any of the liver and
sound that remains; then repeat the layers of sauce and fish
until the dish is full; cover it with bread-crumbs, sprinkle a little
butter over, and bake for about half an hour.   127.--COD
OMELETTE. 
 Break into small pieces the thickest parts of a dressed cod, season
it with a little grated nutmeg and a little pounded mace, beat up
six eggs well and mix with it, forming it into a paste, fry it as
an omelette, and serve as hot as possible.   128.--FISH CAKE. 
 Take the meat from the bones of any kind of cold fish,
which latter put with the head and fins into a stewpan with a pint of
water, a little salt, pepper, an onion, and a fagot
of sweet herbs to stew for gravy. Mince the meat, and mix
it well with crumbs of bread and cold potatoes (equal parts), a
little parsley and seasoning. Make into a cake, with the white
of an egg, or a little butter or milk; egg it over and
cover with bread-crumbs, then fry a little brown. Pour the gravy
over, and stew gently fifteen minutes, stirring it carefully twice or thrice.
Serve hot, and garnish with slices of lemon, or parsley. 
 129.--TO COOK SHEEPSHEAD. 
 Rub it with salt and lemon before putting it into the
water. To every six quarts of water add one pound of salt.
Boil a twenty pound fish twenty minutes. Serve on a napkin; garnish with
parsley, and eat it with shrimp or lobster sauce. 
  Fried Whiting.  An illustration of a fish with its tail inside of its mouth so that its entire body forms a circle.     130.--WHITING AND GRATIN. 
 Skin the whitings, and turn their tails into their mouths; put them
into a buttered sautépan, with a table-spoonful of chopped onions
and four of brown sauce over each; sprinkle over them
bread-crumbs and butter, and bake in a moderate oven half an
hour. Dress them on a dish without a napkin. Put twelve table-spoonfuls more
brown sauce into the pan, with a tea-spoonful of chopped
mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, one of essence of
anchovy; pepper, salt, and sugar a little; pour round
the dish, and brown it with a salamander.   131.--HALIBUT. 
 Halibut should be cut into slices of four pounds each, and may be
baked or fried. The skin on the back must be scored. When 
 baked,  use a sufficient quantity of butter to
keep it moist. If 
 boiled,  lay it in the kettle on a strainer, cover it
with salted water; boil it slowly half or three-quarters of an hour and
skim it well. Garnish it with horseradish, serve it with melted
butter. To 
 fry  halibut, cut it in slices less than an
inch thick; and with this, as with all other fish, take care to have
plenty of butter, lard, or oil in the pan, and that it be
hot before the fish is put in.   132.--HALIBUT--STEWED. 
 Put into a stewpan half a pint of fish broth, a table-spoonful of
vinegar, and one of mushroom ketchup; add an anchovy, two
good-sized onions cut in quarters, a bunch of sweet herbs, and
one clove of garlic; add a pint and a half of water, let it stew
an hour and a quarter, strain  it off clear, put
into it the head and shoulders of a fine halibut and stew until
tender; thicken with butter and flour, and serve.   133.--TO
COLLOP HALIBUT. 
 Cut the fish into nice cutlets of about an inch thick and fry them;
then put them into a broth made of the bones, four onions,
a stick of celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs boiled together
for half an hour. Strain this broth, thicken it, and stew the
fish for half an hour, adding salt, pepper, a grating of
nutmeg and pounded mace, a spoonful of soy or fish-sauce,
and half that quantity of lemon juice with a little shred lemon
peel.   134.--HALIBUT A LA CRÊME. 
 Rub the halibut with salt and lemon; put it to boil in
a kettle, allowing one ounce of salt to every six quarts of
water; simmer over a moderate fire. A halibut of eight pounds
should simmer twenty minutes or more. When it begins to crack slightly, lift it
with a drainer, and dish it without a napkin, having it first carefully
drained, and absorbing the water that runs from the fish with a
napkin. Put one pint of cream on the fire in a stewpan, and when near
simmering add half a pound of fresh butter; stir it quickly till the
butter is melted, but do not let the cream boil; add three
yolks of eggs, season with salt, pepper and lemon
juice; pour as much over the halibut as will cover it, and serve the
remainder in a boat. Or, if preferred, dish the fish on a napkin,
garnish with parsley, and serve the sauce in a boat. This
sauce must not be made until the moment it is wanted.   135.--TO DRY
HADDOCK. 
 Choose the finest you can obtain; clean them, remove the eyes, the entrails,
and the gills; clear away also all the blood from the backbone. Wipe them as
dry as you can with a clean soft cloth, and fill in with salt the spaces
which contained the eyes; also rub in a quantity in the inside of the
fish; lay them in a cool place on a dry flag-stone, or a piece of board
for eighteen or twenty hours, then hang them in a dry place. Four days will be
found quite sufficient to prepare them for eating.   136.--TO DRESS DRIED
HADDOCK. 
 They should be skinned, rubbed with egg, and rolled in new
bread-crumbs; lay them in a dish before the fire to brown, baste with
butter, and when well browned serve with egg sauce.   137.--TO
DRESS HADDOCK. 
 Clean them very thoroughly, and take off the heads and the
skin; put them into boiling water, throw in two moderate-sized
handfuls of salt; let them boil as fast as possible, and when they rise
to the surface (which they will do, if they have sufficient room), they are
done enough. They are sent to table with plain butter for
sauce.   138.--BAKED HADDOCK--(Soyer's.) 
 Fill the interior of the fish with veal stuffing; sew it up
with packthread, and truss it with the tail in its mouth, rub a piece of
butter over the back, or egg and bread-crumb it over; set
it on a baking-dish, which put in a moderate oven to bake; a common
haddock would require but half an hour. The better plan is to run the
point of a knife down to the backbone, from which if the flesh parts easily, it
is done; dress it upon a dish without a napkin, and serve a sauce
round.   139.--TO BAKE HADDOCK. 
 Cut off the heads, trim and bone them, season with
pepper and salt; chop very fine a small quantity of
mushroom, onion and parsley; spread it over the
fish, lay  on them small pieces of
butter, and place them in a dish with crumbs of bread; bake them
from fifty minutes to an hour; skim the gravy, and serve up in the same
dish as that in which it was cooked.   140.--HERRINGS. 
 Herrings are dressed in a variety of fashions; they are fried,
boiled, broiled, dried, potted, baked, smoked, pickled. 
 There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, salted, and red
herrings; they are cleaned like any other sort of fish; when
fresh they are boiled and served with melted butter, white sauce,
&c.; the salted herring should be soaked in cold water before
it is cooked; this is broiled. Sometimes it is cut in pieces and eaten raw; the
red herring is split down the back, the head and tail taken off,
and the fish broiled like the others; they may be also dressed in the
following manner: when they have lain in cold water some time, soak them
in milk for two hours; then split them down the back; have ready some
melted butter in which have been mixed basil and bay leaf
minced small; the yolks of two eggs, pepper and nutmeg;
rub the herrings well with this bread, then broil them over a
gentle fire, serve with lemon juice; the best red herrings are
full of roe, are firm and large, and have a yellow cast; of the fresh
herrings the scales are bright; if good, the eye is full and the gill
red; the fish should be stiff.   141.--FRESH HERRINGS BAKED. 
 Wash the herrings in clear spring water; when they are
thoroughly clean drain them, and then, without wiping them, lay them in a dish
or baking pan; pepper and salt them; chop finely two or three
onions, some parsley, thyme, and strew over them; cover
them with equal proportions of vinegar and small beer; tie them
over, and let them bake one hour in a slow oven. 
 They should be kept in the pickle, and make a pleasant dish when
cold.   142.--TO POT HERRINGS. 
 Take from one to two dozen herrings, according to the number you
purpose potting; choose them as large, fine, and fresh as you can. Take two
ounces of salt, one of saltpetre, two of allspice; reduce
them to an impalpable powder, and rub them well into the herrings; let
them remain with the spice upon them eight hours to drain; wipe off the
spice clean, and lay them in a pan on which butter has been
rubbed; season with nutmeg, mace, white pepper,
salt, and one clove in powder, one ounce each, save the last; lay
in two or three bay leaves, cover with butter, and bake gently
three hours. 
 When cool, drain off the liquor, pack the fish in the pots intended
for their use, cover to the depth of half an inch with clarified butter,
sufficiently melted just to run, but do not permit it to be hot; they will be
ready for eating in two days.   143.--POTTED HERRING. 
 Take off the heads and tails; clean the fish and shake
salt on them to draw out the blood; leave them one night, then rub them
with black pepper and allspice. Pack them in a tin pan; put
slices of onions and bay leaves between the layers, and pour on
vinegar enough to cover them. Lay over them a sheet of buttered
paper, or a crust of oatmeal bread; bake them till the
bones are dissolved. A little mace, whole pepper, and
butter improve them.   144.--TO STEW MACKEREL--(New Way.) 
 Take off the heads, the fins, the tails, and, having opened the
fish, and taken out all the hard roes, dry them with a cloth, and
dredge them lightly with flour; place three or four of them in a  stewpan, with a lump of butter the size of a
walnut, to each fish; put into a small basin a teacupful of
water, a tablespoonful of finely chopped onions, the same of
chopped parsley, a blade or two of mace, a little pepper
and salt, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and a small
teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). Add a tablespoonful of
grated bread-crust, not burnt, but a light brown: pour all these
ingredients over the fish, and let them stew gently for twenty minutes;
have ready the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, and when the
fish is sufficiently done, take some of the gravy and mix
gradually with the eggs, and, pouring them on the fish, shake the
stewpan a little over the fire to thicken the whole, but not to curdle the
eggs; the soft roes added are an improvement: have ready more grated
crust, and having placed the fish whole in the dish, shake a little of
the grated crust over the whole, so as to make it of a handsome brown. The
receipt requires to be carefully followed. If the gravy is too thick,
more water may be added; also a glass of sherry, if liked. 
 145.--MACKEREL 
 Are generally served up plain boiled; put them in a kettle containing enough
boiling water according to the number, well salted; let simmer nearly
half an hour, take them up, drain, and dish them upon a napkin; serve melted
butter in a boat, with which you have mixed a table-spoonful of chopped
fennel, boiling it a few minutes.   146.--MACKEREL. 
 Cleanse the fish thoroughly inside and out, remove the roe
carefully, steep it in vinegar and water, and replace it; place
the fish in water from which the chill has been taken, and boil
very slowly, from fifteen to twenty minutes; the best criterion is to be found
in the starting of the eyes and splitting of the tail, when that takes place
the fish is done; take it out of the water 
 instantly,  or you will not preserve it whole.
Garnish with fennel or parsley, and serve up as sauce,
either, chopped fine in melted butter. Gooseberry sauce is
occasionally sent to table, but it does not suit every palate. 
 An English cook says: They should be carefully cleaned both inside and out;
then washed in vinegar and water, and left to hang a little to
dry before being put into the fish-kettle. A handful of salt
should be put into the water, which should be at first cold, and only
allowed to boil gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, though some prefer
having the water boiling hot. The fish should be watched about
that time, as "when the eye starts and the tail splits they are done, and
should be immediately taken up; if left in the water they will
break." 
 The most customary sauce is that of fennel, which has partly
superseded the gooseberry; but parsley and butter are
still in use. 
 
 To Broil. --Split them down the back, rub the inside
with a little vinegar sprinkled with pepper and salt,
flour them, broil on a quick fire, and serve them up with melted
butter, parsley, fennel, or lemon sauce. Or, if
intended for breakfast, send up the fish 
 plainly broiled  without condiments or sauce,
and merely rubbed, when done, with a bit of butter.   147.--TO ROAST
SHAD--(Sea-shore Receipt.) 
 Split your fish down the back after he is cleansed and washed; nail
the halves on shingles or shortboard; stick them erect in the sand round a
large fire; as soon as they are well browned, serve on whatever you have; eat
with cold butter, black pepper, salt, and a good appetite.
(This is a delicious way of cooking this fish.)    148.--FOR PRESERVING SHAD. 
 Place the shad, cleaned and washed, on a layer of salt in the
bottom of the vessel, alternating the layers of shad and salt;
the salt covering the top ones. Leave them twenty-four hours; then take
them out and wipe them dry. For fifty shad, make a pickle of
quarter of a pound of saltpetre and a pound of brown sugar mixed
with salt enough to cure the fish; put the shad in
alternate layers with this dry preparation; and put them away. When a
shad is taken out to cook, it should be soaked a few hours before
broiling.   149.--TO BROIL A SHAD. 
 Shad should be well washed and dried. It may be cut in half and
broiled, or you may split it open and lay a small quantity of salt over
it, and lay it upon a gridiron well buttered. It will broil in about twenty
minutes, and should be thoroughly done. Melted butter may be served in a
sauce-boat with it. Shad is even more palatable when baked than
broiled. 
 To bake Shad  it should be stuffed with mashed
potatoes and chopped parsley. Lay it in the oven on a pan which is
well covered with butter chopped in pieces; baste the fish with
the butter and add fresh quantities as fast as it is absorbed. Half or
three-quarters of a pound of butter should be used for large-sized
shad.   150.--TO ROAST PIKE--(Soyer.) 
 This fish, in France, is found daily on the tables of the fish
epicures. It is usually baked, when dressed plain. Having cleaned the
fish, stuff it, and sew the belly up; butter a saucepan, (a
shallow frying-pan,) put the fish into it, and place it in the oven for
an hour or more, according to the size; when done, dish it without a napkin,
and pour anchovy sauce round it. The fish, before baking, should
be trussed with its tail in its mouth, and have four incisions cut in each
side, and well buttered over.   151.--FISH CAKES. 
 Cold boiled fresh fish, or salt codfish, is nice minced fine,
with potatoes, moistened with a little water, and a little
butter put in, done up into cakes of the size of common biscuit,
and fried brown in pork-fat or butter.   152.--TO COOK
CARP. 
 Scour a fresh caught carp, and rub clean with salt and water;
but scale him not; open him, and put him, with his blood and liver into
a small pot; take a handful of sweet marjoram, thyme, or
parsley, a sprig of rosemary and another of savory. Bind
them in small bundles, and add them to the carp, with four or five whole
onions, twenty pickled oysters, and three anchovies. Pour
on claret wine enough to cover the carp, seasoned with
salt, cloves, mace and lemon-peel. Cover the
pot, and set it on a quick fire. When done, take out the carp, lay it
with the broth into a dish. Pour over it a quarter of a pound of
butter, melted and beaten with six spoonfuls of the broth, the
yolks of two or three eggs, and some of the herbs shred;
garnish the dish with lemons, and serve up, and much good to you. 
 153.--TO COOK TROUT. (Frank Forrester's Method.) 
 This is the method of the woods, and in the woods I learned it: The
trout must be cooked in the open air, by a wood fire on the ground, or a
charcoal fire in a small Boston furnace. 
 Clean and scale your fish; open, clean and wash the inside; for a
pound fish take two small skewers of red cedar wood; upon each thread a
piece of fat salt pork half an inch square; with  these fasten the belly of the fish asunder, annex him
by the tail to a twig of pliant wood, which suffer to bend over the fire so as
to bring the fish opposite to the blaze; place a large biscuit,
or a thin slice of dry toast, under the drip of the gravy; cook
quickly. For a two pound fish ten minutes will suffice; dish with the
biscuit under him, and eat with salt and lemon-juice,
or with shrimp or lobster sauce; or a dash of Worcestershire or
Harvey sauce; though I think these bad taste.   154.--TO DRESS
PICKEREL--(Nobbs.) 
 Open and rub the fish within with salt and claret wine;
save the milt and a little of the bloody fat; cut him in two or three
pieces, and put him into boiling water, with sweet marjoram,
savory, thyme, or fennel, and a good handful of
salt. Boil nearly half an hour. For the sauce, take
butter, anchovies, horseradish, claret wine, a
little of the blood, shalot, or garlic, and lemon sliced; beat all
together, and serve.   155.--STEWED CARP. 
 Three carps will make a dish; put them in a baking-dish, cut up in
thin pieces a carrot, turnip, onion, celery, a
fagot of sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, a little mace, six
cloves, whole pepper, some good second stock, six
anchovies, half a pint of port wine; boil all this together, pour
it over the carp while hot, put buttered paper over them, do them
in the oven; when done, strain off the stock from the fish and
thicken it, strain it through a tammy, add a glass more port wine,
season it with sugar, lemon-juice, cayenne pepper, and
salt.   156.--SOLES, FRIED. 
 Have about four pounds of lard or clean fat in a small
fish-kettle, which place over a moderate fire; cut off the fins of the
sole, and dip it into flour, shake part of the flour off,
have an egg well beaten upon a plate, with which brush the fish
all over, and cover it with fine bread-crumbs; ascertain if the
lard is hot, by throwing in a few bread-crumbs; it will hiss if
sufficiently hot; put in the fish, which will require nearly ten
minutes' cooking, and ought to be perfectly crisp; drain it on a cloth, dish
upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce
in a boat. 
 The above quantity of lard or fat, if carefully used and not
burnt, would do for several occasions, by straining it off each time after
using. All kinds of fish, such as eels, smelts, whitings,
flounders, perch, gudgeons, &c., are fried precisely in the
same manner. Regulate the time according to the size of your fish. 
 157.--PIKE. 
 Clean and stuff the interior as directed for haddocks, only adding
some fillets of anchovies, if handy, and chopped lemon-peel
with it; curl round and put in a baking-dish, spread a little butter all
over, put in a moderate oven; when about half done egg over with a
paste-brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it; a middling-sized
pike will take about an hour, but that according to the size and the heat of
the oven; when done, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce round
as directed for baked haddock.   158.--TO FRY SMELTS. 
 Dry them slightly in a cloth, and dip them in flour; then have half
an ounce of butter or clear fat melted in a basin, into which
break the yolk of two eggs, with which rub the smelts over with a
brush, dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in very hot lard, dress them
on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce in
a boat.   159.--BROILED SMELTS. 
 When cleansed and wiped dry with a  cloth, dip
them lightly into flour, and put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire,
for five or six minutes, turning them carefully when half done; serve plain, or
with a little sauce. They are much relished by sick persons. I can
highly recommend any kind of white fish cooked in this manner; and it is
well known that nothing in the way of food is more digestible than
fish. 
 Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also
be served to invalids, by proceeding the same as above.   160.--STURGEON
CUTLETS. 
 Cut in slices one-quarter inch thick; dry, flour, and egg
them; dip them in crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt,
parsley, and thyme; fry them, and serve with Indian
pickle, tomato, or piquant sauce.   161.--TO STEW STURGEON. 
 Cut the fish in slices one and a half inch thick, dip them in
vinegar, dry them well, flour, and broil the slices; then
flour and lay them in a stewpan with some good broth, and let
them stew gently until perfectly tender; thicken the gravy with
butter or cream, add a spoonful of Harvey's sauce,
one-half a glass of wine, and serve it up with capers strewed
over the top, and garnished with slices of lemon.   162.--ECONOMICAL
MODE OF COOKING STURGEON. 
 Take a piece of sturgeon about two pounds' weight, and on sending a piece of
meat to the baker's to be baked on a stand in a dish, put the sturgeon
under it, with a little water, salt, pepper, &c., and
a little chopped eschalot may be used; you can also put potatoes
round it. Peas, if in season, are a good accompaniment, with melted
butter.   163.--SHRIMP TOAST--CROUTE AUX CREVELLES--(French.) 
 Boil five pints of shrimps, and as soon as they are cold shell them; take
the heads and bruise them in a mortar, put them into barely a quart of
water, and let them boil an hour, strain them very clear, and add three
parts to half the quantity of good veal stock. Put into a stewpan a lump
of butter the size of an egg, and when it has commenced to
bubble, stir in one teaspoonful of flour, a little grated nutmeg,
a sprinkling of cayenne, and a small quantity of mace, the fourth
of a teaspoonful; when this browns, pour in the stock gradually, adding
a glass of vin de Bordeaux, and let it boil, then add the shrimps, cut off the
bottom crust of a French loaf, hollow out the crumb, and fry the crust in fresh
butter until a golden brown; as soon as the shrimps are thoroughly
heated, which will be in about three or four minutes, pour them into the
hollowed toast.   164.--SMELTS.--(English). 
 This is a very delicate fish, requires delicate handling, and is
quickly cooked; draw through the gills and wipe with a soft cloth, but do not
wash them; dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten very smooth, and
sprinkle them with bread-crumbs as finely as they can be powdered, a
little flour may be mixed with the bread-crumbs; fry them a clear
light brown; four minutes will suffice to cook them. 
 The French method of serving is to skewer six through the gills with a
silver skewer, and serve them in sixes. If dished, lay them head and
tail alternately, serve with melted butter and garnish with
parsley.   165.--TO BAKE SMELTS. 
 Prepare as above, and instead of strewing forcemeat over them,
employ  only bread crumbs, and moisten with
clarified butter; mix in addition to the gravy a glass of
Madeira, with a dash of anchovies; this must be added before the
smelts are laid in. They will be done in ten minutes. 
 166.--TROUT. 
 Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour, fry them in butter
until they are a rich clear brown, fry some green parsley crisp, and
make some plain melted butter, put in one teaspoonful of essence of
anchovy, and one glass of white wine; garnish when the trout
are dished with the crisped parsley and lemon cut in slices; the
butter may be poured over the fish, but it is most advisable to
send it in a butter tureen.   167.--TO FRY TROUT. 
 Scale, gut, and clean them; take out the gills; egg and crumb
them; then fry in lard or oil until of a light brown. Serve with
anchovy-sauce and sliced lemon.   168.--IN THE FOREIGN MODE. 
 Cover the bottom of a small oval paper form with a few very thin
slices of fat bacon; cut down the back some nicely-washed small
trout, and, having removed the bones, lay the fish open,
flat upon the bacon; sprinkle with chopped parsley,
pepper, salt, a little mace, and two cloves finely
pounded. Bake one-half hour in a quick oven, and serve in paper. 
 169.--TRUITE À LA GENEVOISE. 
 Clean the fish as above, lay them in a stewpan with two glasses of
champagne, two glasses of sherry, a fagot of parsley, an
onion stuck with cloves, thyme, pepper, and
salt, and a piece of the well baked crust of French bread; stew
on a quick fire, take out the bread when the fish is done, brown
it, mix in butter rolled in flour, and boil up to thicken the
sauce; the fish having been taken out when done, pour over them
the thickened sauce, serve with lemon sliced and fried
bread.   170.--TRUITE À LA PRINCESSE ROYALE. 
 Take equal parts of Madeira and water, and let them come to a
boil, having emptied, cleansed, washed, and wiped perfectly dry the
trout; lay them in; they should only be just covered with the liquor,
and will be done in twenty minutes if not boiled too fast; take out the
fish and thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour;
add two well beaten eggs with one teaspoonful of cream to the
sauce, pouring them from one vessel to another until they are of a
creamy consistency; season with salt, pour the sauce upon the
fish, and serve.   171.--TROUT À LA TWICKENHAM. 
 When you have cleaned your trout, put them into a kettle of
boiling water, to which you have added a good handful of salt,
and a wine-glassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty minutes,
or according to their size; dress upon a napkin, and serve melted
butter, into which you have put a table-spoonful of chopped
gherkins, two sprigs of chopped parsley, salt and
pepper, in a boat. 
 The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel, are
excellent pickled:--put three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two
ounces of butter, one turnip, a bouquet of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five minutes over the fire, add a pint of
water and a pint of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of salt and
one of pepper; boil until the onions are tender, then strain it
through a sieve over the fish; it will keep some time if required, and
  then do to pickle more fish by
boiling over again.   172.--TROUT STEWED. 
 This is a pleasing and delicate fish when nicely stewed. It is
dressed very much in the fashion of other small fish stewed, only that
it requires perhaps more care in the different processes. 
 First wash and clean the fish, wipe it perfectly dry; put into a
stewpan two ounces of butter, dredge in as it melts, flour, and
add grated nutmeg, a little mace, and a little cayenne.
Stew well, and when fluid and thoroughly mixed, lay in the fish, which,
having suffered to slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal gravy;
throw in a little salt, a small fagot of parsley, a few rings of
lemon-peel; stew slowly forty minutes; take out the fish,
strain the gravy clear and pour it over the fish; it may be
strained over it; before however, it is poured over; a glass of bucellas may be
added to the gravy.   173.--TURBOT. 
 Place the turbot, previously to cooking, to soak in salt and water in
which a little vinegar has been poured; lay it upon its back in the
fish-kettle, fill the latter three parts full with cold water,
throw in a handful of salt, a gill of vinegar, let it boil very
gradually, and when it boils, add cold water to check; thirty minutes
are sufficient to cook it; serve it upon a cloth as boiled with its back to the
dish; garnish tastefully with sprigs of parsley, and horseradish
scraped into curls, or with fried smelts, or barberries, and
parsley. Lobster sauce.   174.--TURBOT À LA CRÊME. 
 Is made from the remains of a turbot left from a previous dinner: pick all
the flesh from the bones, which warm in salt and water, and have
ready the following sauce: put one ounce of flour into a stewpan,
to which add by degrees a quart of milk, mixing it very smoothly; then
add two peeled eschalots, a bouquet of parsley, a bay-leaf and a
sprig of thyme tied together; add a little grated nutmeg, a
teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper; place it over
the fire, stirring until it forms a thickish sauce; then take it from
the fire, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and pass it
through a tammy; lay a little of it upon the bottom of a convenient-sized dish,
then a layer of the fish; season lightly with a little white
pepper and salt, then another layer of sauce, proceeding thus
until the fish is all used, finishing with sauce; sprinkle a few
bread-crumbs over, and put it into a warm oven half an hour; brown with
the salamander, and serve upon the dish it is baked on. Any remains of boiled
fish may be dressed the same way.   175.--CRIMPED
SALMON--À LA CRÉME. 
 The salmon, like cod, must be 
 quite fresh  or it will not crimp. Cut the body into
slices about two inches thick; have ready some salt and water in the
proportion of three ounces of salt to a quart of water, with the
smallest knob of saltpetre about the size of a nut; dip the
salmon slices into this as they are cut, hold them for half a minute,
and then rinse them in clear cold spring water, and lay them upon a
dish; put a lump of butter well rubbed in flour into a stewpan;
while the butter is melting sprinkle in a little salt and
cayenne, and when the butter is on the simmer stir in half a pint
of cream, keep stirring, and as it boils squeeze in the juice of
a quarter of a lemon, and stir in a large teaspoonful of essence of
anchovies; add a little more salt to taste. 
 Having boiled the crimped salmon slices in quick boiling water
ten minutes, take them out and let them drain one minute, put them in a clean
stewpan, and pour  over the prepared cream
and let it simmer ten minutes; it should not if possible be suffered to
boil. 
 The lemon juice is sometimes deferred until the fish is
removed from the cream, a minute's simmer is allowed, and it is then all
poured over the salmon and sent 
 very hot  to table.   176.--TO BOIL SALMON.
(Frank Forrester's own receipt.) 
 If you are ever so lucky as to catch a salmon, where incontinently
you can proceed to cook him--that is to say, in the wilderness, within ten
yards of the door of your own shantee, with the fire burning and the pot
boiling--good. 
 Stun him by a heavy blow on the head; crimp him by a succession of
cuts on each side through the muscle, quite down to the back-bone, with
a very sharp knife, in slashes parallel to the gill cover. Then place him for
ten minutes in a cold spring, or under the jet of a waterfall. Meanwhile, keep
your pot boiling, nay, screeching with intense heat, filled with brine
strong enough to bear an egg. Therein immerse him, having cut out
the gills, open the belly, and wash the inside; boil him at the rate of seven
minutes and a half to the pound; dish him, and serving him with no
sauce, save a tureenful of the water in which he has been boiled,
proceed to eat him, with no other condiments than a little salt and the
slightest squeeze of a lemon. I do not object to cucumber sliced
very fine, with a dressing of oil, three tablespoonfuls to one of
vinegar, salt and black pepper to taste; but I regard
green peas, or any vegetable, with this grand fish, as a Cockney
abomination.   177.--SOYER'S RECEIPT--SALMON AU NATUREL. 
 Clean and prepare as before; but if he be not fresh enough to crimp, scale
him and proceed as follows: 
 Put your fish in cold water, using a pound of salt to
every six quarts; let it be well covered, and set it over a moderate fire; when
it begins to simmer, set it on one side the fire. If the fish weigh four
pounds, let it simmer half an hour; if eight, three-quarters, and so on in
proportion; dish it on a napkin, and serve lobster or shrimp
sauce in a bowl.   178.--TO BOIL SALMON. 
 Salmon is dressed in various ways, but chiefly boiled in large pieces
of a few pounds' weight. The middle piece is considered, if not the richest,
yet the most sightly; then that adjoining the jowl; the tail part, though
nearly as good, being usually kept for steaks. It requires great
attention, and the boiling must be checked more than once; a piece of four to
five pounds, will take nearly an hour, but if double that weight will not
require more than twenty minutes beyond that time, and if crimped, still less
will be sufficient: let it, however, boil slowly, in the hardest water,
on a strainer placed in a large fish-kettle, and be thoroughly done, for
nothing is more disgusting than fish that is under-cooked; skim it well,
or the color will be bad; the moment it is ready, lift up the strainer and rest
it across the kettle, that the fish may drain; cover it with a thick
cloth.   179.--TO BAKE SALMON. 
 Scale it, and take out the bone from the part to be dressed, but fill
up the cavity with forcemeat, and bind the piece with tape. Then
flour it, rub it with yolk of egg, and put it into a deep
baking-dish, covering it very thickly with crumbs of bread, chopped
parsley, and sweet herbs, together with shrimps, if they can be
got, and put into the covering a few small bits of fresh butter; place
it in a Dutch oven, or, if already boiled and thus redressed,  heat it only before the fire until browned. 
 180.--SALMON, PLAIN BOILED--(Soyer.) 
 I prefer always dressing this fish in slices from an inch to two
inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water about twenty
minutes; the whole fish may be boiled, or the head and shoulders
of a large fish, but they require longer boiling. Salmon eats
firmer by not being put into the water until boiling. Dress the
fish upon a napkin, and serve with lobster sauce, shrimp
ditto, or plain melted butter in a boat with fresh sprigs of
parsley boiled a few minutes in it. A salmon weighing about ten
pounds will require an hour's gentle boiling; a head and shoulders
weighing six pounds, half an hour; the remains may be dressed à la
crême, as directed for turbot.   181.--SALMON--TO BOIL. 
 This fish cannot be too soon cooked after being caught; it should be
put into a kettle with plenty of cold water, and a handful of
salt; the addition of a small quantity of vinegar will add to the
firmness of the fish; let it boil gently; if four pounds of
salmon, fifty minutes will suffice; if thick, a few minutes more may be
allowed. The best criterion for ascertaining whether it be done, is to pass a
knife between the bone and the fish; if it separates readily, it
is done; this should be tried in the thickest part; when cooked lay it on the
fish strainer transversely across the kettle, so that the fish
while draining may be kept hot. Place a fish plate upon the dish on
which the salmon is to be served; fold a clean white napkin, lay
it upon the fish plate, and place the salmon upon the napkin.
Garnish with parsley.   182.--BROILED SALMON. 
 Dip each piece in flour, put it on a gridiron, turn occasionally;
fifteen minutes will give it a nice pale yellow color; it should be served with
Dutch, or caper sauce.   183.--SALMON BROILED. 
 Cut the fish in slices from the best part, each slice should be an
inch thick; season well with pepper and salt; wrap each slice in
white paper, which has been buttered with fresh butter; fasten
each end by twisting or tying; broil over a very clear fire eight minutes. A
coke fire, if kept clear and bright is best. Serve with butter,
anchovy, or tomato sauce.   184.--DRIED SALMON BROILED. 
 Cut and cook as above, save that when it is warmed through, it is enough.
Serve plain for breakfast, or with egg sauce if for dinner.   185.--TO
DRY SALMON. 
 Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe, rub the whole
with common salt after scaling it; let it hang twenty-four hours to
drain. Pound three or four ounces of saltpetre, according to the size of
the fish, two ounces of bay salt, and two ounces of coarse
sugar; rub these, when mixed well, into the salmon, and lay it in
a large dish or tray two days; then rub it well with common salt, and in
twenty-four hours more it will be fit to dry; wipe it well after draining. Hang
it either in a wood chimney or in a dry place, keeping it open with two small
sticks. Dried salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only just
warmed through, egg-sauce and mashed potatoes with it; or it may be
boiled, especially the part next the head.   186.--TO PICKLE
SALMON.--The Newcastle Method. 
 Put any quantity of salmon into an earthen jar; cover it with equal
parts of good vinegar and water; add cayenne pepper and
salt in proportion to the fish, and bake it in a moderate oven.
This  pickle will keep a long time, with
the addition of a little fresh vinegar; and if mace or
cloves be added, with a few bay-leaves laid in the mouth of the jar, it
will be found an improvement. Trout may be preserved the same way.
Fish thus pickled, must not be washed previously, but rubbed with a dry
cloth. 
 Though generally eaten cold, yet in Newcastle it is not unfrequently warmed
up in its pickle-liquor.   187.--SALMON--TO PICKLE
UNDRESSED. 
 Scale the fish, rub well with a cloth, and scrape away all the blood
about the backbone, but do not wash it; cut off the head, and divide the
fish into pieces about six inches long; then boil the pieces in a
pickle made of equal parts of vinegar and water, with a
few cloves and two or three blades of mace until done. Skim
carefully all the time the fish is boiling, and when done remove the
fish and pour the liquor into a jar or tub, so that both may become
cold; when cold, put the fish into the liquor, with one-third more
vinegar, and some whole pepper.   188.--SALMON POTTED. 
 Cut a handsome piece from the middle of the salmon; remove the
scales, and wipe it with a clean cloth. Rub into it some common salt
thoroughly. 
 Beat up some mace, cloves, and whole pepper; season the
salmon with it; place it in a pan with a few bay leaves; cover it
with butter, and bake it until thoroughly done; remove it from the
gravy, letting it drain thoroughly, then place it in the pots. Clarify
sufficient butter to cover all the pots after the salmon has been
put into them; put it to cool.   189.--TO PICKLE SALMON. 
 Scale, clean, split, and divide into handsome pieces the salmon;
place them in the bottom of a stewpan, with just sufficient water to
cover them. 
 Put into three quarts of water one pint of vinegar, a dozen
bay leaves, half that quantity of mace, a handful of salt,
and a fourth part of an ounce of black pepper. 
 When the salmon is sufficiently boiled remove it, drain it, place it
upon a cloth. Put in the kettle another layer of salmon; pour over it
the liquor which you have prepared, and keep it until the salmon is
done. Then remove the fish, place it in a deep dish or pan, cover it
with the pickle, which, if not sufficiently acid, may receive more
vinegar and salt, and be boiled forty minutes. Let the air be
kept from the fish, and, if kept for any length of time it will be found
necessary to occasionally drain the liquor from the fish; skim, and boil
it.   190.--COLLARED SALMON. 
 Cut off the head and shoulders, and the thinnest part of the tail,
thus leaving the primest part of the salmon to be collared. Split it,
and having washed and wiped it well, make a compound of cayenne pepper,
white pepper, a little salt, and some pounded mace. Rub
the fish well with this mixture inside and out; roll and bandage with
broad tape; lay it in a saucepan; cover it with water and
vinegar, one part of the latter to two of the former; add a
table-spoonful of pepper, black and white whole, two bay
leaves, and some salt. Keep the lid closed down. Simmer until
enough, strain off the liquor; let it cool; pour over the fish when
cold, garnish with fennel.   191.--COLLARED EELS. 
 The eels destined to be dressed as above should be the finest which
can be selected: the skin must not be removed, but the bone must
be carefully and cleverly extracted. Spread out the fish,  and with some finely chopped sage, parsley,
and mixed spices, rub the fish well over; then take some broad
white tape, bind up the fish tightly; throw a good handful of
salt into the water in which it is to be boiled, and a couple of
bay leaves. Boil three-quarters of an hour, and if the fish be
taken out and hung to dry for twelve hours, it will be the better for it when
served. Add to the water in which the fish has been boiled a pint
of vinegar, a little whole pepper, some knotted marjoram
or thyme. This pickle also should, after boiling about twelve
minutes, be suffered to stand as long as the eels are recommended to be
hung; previous to serving, the fish must be unrolled so as to abrase the
skin as little as possible, and put them into the pickle. Send up
in slices or whole, according to taste; garnish with parsley. 
 192.--EELS BREAD CRUMBED. 
 Cut into pieces same length as above, cleaned nicely and well dried; let
them be coated with yolk of egg, powdered with bread crumbs; fry
them brown; serve with parsley and butter. Garnish with handsome
sprigs of parsley.   193.--SPITCHCOCKED EELS. 
 There are several ways to spitchcock eels. They are either broiled or
stewed. To broil them, see that the gridiron is cleansed and rubbed with
suet, to prevent the adhesion of the skin of the fish,
which must be suffered to remain on; cut the eels, which should be
large, into lengths of six or seven inches, not less, and coat them well with
yolk of egg. Pound in a mortar, parsley, nutmeg,
mace, cloves, and pepper; this should be rubbed over the
fish, and they should be broiled a clear brown; serve with melted
butter, fish sauce, according to palate.   194.--EELS
FRIED. 
 Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, trim them, dip the
pieces into flour, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw
them into some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for
fried soles.   195.--EELS Â LA TARTARE. 
 Fry as directed above, and serve on some Tartare sauce; or partly
stew first, and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb, and broil gently.
This last I much prefer.   196.--STEWED EELS. 
 Procure as large eels as possible, which cut into pieces three inches
long, and put them into a stewpan, with an onion, a bouquet of two
bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and parsley, six cloves, a
blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water; place
the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about twenty minutes, or
according to the size of the eels; when done, drain upon a cloth, dress
them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a matelote sauce
over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote, but using the
stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce,
having previously well boiled it to extract all the fat. 
 197.--EEL PIE. 
 Take six skinned eels, remove the heads, and cut them into
pieces four inches long; add two dozen oysters, boil them together in a
very little water; take out the oysters, and bone the
eels by passing them through a sieve. 
 Take six hard boiled eggs, parsley, fried herbs,
lemon-peel, black pepper, salt, mace,
nutmeg, and allspice; the whole ground very fine; add these to
the eels and oysters with the broth and a bit of fresh
butter. 
 Take a large, deep dish, of yellow earthen ware; put the mass into it, and
cover the dish with a fine pastry crust. Bake it in a very hot oven from half
an hour to three-quarters according to the heat.    198.--SHELL FISH. 
 Although crabs and lobsters may be bought the whole year
round, they are yet only in high season, from the month of July till the close
of October. They should be always purchased alive. 
 If lobsters have not been long taken, the claws will have a strong
motion when you put your finger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest, if of
good size, are the best, but the largest are not the best. When you buy them
ready boiled, try whether their tails are stiff, and pull up with a spring; if
otherwise, they are either watery or not fresh. The 
 "cock-lobster,"  as the male is called, is
known by the narrow back part of his tail, and the two uppermost fins within it
are stiff and hard; but those of the 
 hen  are soft, and the tail broader. The male,
though generally smaller, has the highest flavor; the flesh is firmer, and the
color, when boiled, is a deeper red; but the female has that fine coral
so highly prized by cooks for the improvement of their sauces, which appears
with the rudiments of the spawn.   199.--TO BOIL LOBSTERS. 
 Put them alive, with their claws tied together, into the water when
boiling hot, and keep it so until the fish is done, which, if of a pound
weight, will take about a quarter of an hour, and if larger will require not
quite the same proportion of time, for if boiled too long the meat will
be stringy. Many people are shocked at the apparent cruelty of thus killing
them, but death takes place immediately, and life cannot be taken away without
pain. 
 When sent to table to be eaten cold, the tail and body should be split from
end to end, the claws cracked, but not unshelled, and the meat may be
made into salad, or mixed in such manner as each person pleases, and many
persons add a teaspoonful of white powdered sugar, thinking that it
gives a mellowness to the whole. It is scarcely necessary to mention that the
head of a lobster, and what are called the "lady-fingers," are not to be
eaten.    Lobster as served.  An illustration of a lobster cut into various pieces and laying on a plate in a decorative fashion.     200.--TO STEW
LOBSTERS. 
 Pick the meat out of the shell, put it into a stewpan with half a
pint of good gravy and a glass of claret; add an onion minced
fine, some sweet herbs, and pepper and salt, stew till
tender; add a large spoonful of mushroom ketchup, one of essence of
anchovy, and a lump of butter rolled in flour. Serve hot, and
garnish with bread sippets. If brought on cold as a supper dish, serve
in a shape covered with clear jelly.   201.--BOILING LOBSTERS. 
 Put the lobsters into boiling water, with a little
salt, and boil them till they are cooked through; the color of the shell
is of importance, and is made bright by rubbing the shell with sweet oil
after it is wiped. Split the body and tail through, and crack the claws. It is
then fit to go to the table, where it must be cut up fine before eating. A
dressing, made of salt, mustard, oil, cayenne
pepper and vinegar, mixed with the yolk of an egg, is usually
prepared for it. The white of an egg (boiled hard, of course,)
may be minced fine and strewn over it.  
 202.--LOBSTER CURRIED. 
 Take the meat of a fine lobster, or two, if they should be
small, place in a stewpan two dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, add of
butter two ounces, an onion cut in very fine strips, and three
large spoonfuls of fish stock. When they are stewed well, add the
lobster, simmer gently for an hour, squeeze in half a lemon,
season with a little salt. In the eastern method the expressed juice
of spinach is usually added. This is obtained by simply putting
spinach, without any water, into a saucepan, and when done
enough, press out the juice, and add it with butter,
cayenne, and salt, to the gravy. Prawns may be
dressed in this fashion.   203.--CROQUETTES OF LOBSTER. 
 Take the meat from the shell, chop it finely, mix it with a little
salt, pepper, and pounded mace; take one-fourth part of
fine bread crumbs, make it up into balls with melted butter,
brush the balls with yolk of egg, and dredge them with bread
crumbs, and fry them, serving with or without gravy: if dry, they
must be sent up with crisped parsley.   204.--GRATIN OF
LOBSTER. 
 Take out all the meat from a large lobster, then wash the
body, tail, and shells if the lobster is first cut in halves down the
back; then dry and butter them, and sprinkle them with bread
crumbs, chop up the meat fine, with a little parsley and
shalot, a few drops of essence of anchovies, a spoonful of
vinegar, cayenne pepper and salt, a little bechamel
sauce, and boil all well together; then add a yolk of egg, put it
to cool, then fill your shells or paper cases, cover it with bread
crumbs and some pieces of butter, brown them in the oven, and dish
on a napkin.   205.--LOBSTER SALAD. 
 Extract the fish from the shell, place it in the centre of the
dish in which it is to be served, in the form of a pyramid; arrange the salad
round tastefully, and add salad mixture. This dish is not infrequently
garnished with the smallest claws of the fish. This is a matter of
fancy--or it may be formed into a heap, ornamented with the claws of several
lobsters. The first row is formed of cut cucumbers, the second of
eggs boiled hard, and each egg split into four pieces, and
the points laid round the salad; the third and bottom row is composed of slices
of beet-root and lobster.   206.--LOBSTERS, IN AN
ITALIAN SALAD. 
 Take two lobsters, cut them into pieces by taking off the claws and
tail, each of which split in two; the spawn rub through a dry sieve to garnish
the salad, made in the following manner: wash two or three cabbage
lettuces, cut them in large shreds, slice a beet-root and
cucumber, wash, pick, and cut into long shreds four anchovies,
chop some tarragon and chervil, two boiled eggs, the
yolks and whites chopped separately; if you have any
cauliflowers or French beans, boil and put them with the other
things to garnish. Having every thing prepared, place the lettuce in the
centre of the dish in a heap, and place the lobsters and other things
according to your taste, and just before you serve garnish with Italian salad
sauce.   207.--LOBSTER SALAD.--(Soyer's.) 
 Dress a border of hard-boiled eggs, as directed in salad of
game, fill the centre with some nice fresh salad, then take the flesh
from a middling-sized lobster, which cut into as large slices as
possible, which put into a basin, and season with a little pepper,
salt, oil, and vinegar, after which dress them
pyramidically upon the salad,  and have ready the
following sauce: put the yolks of two fresh eggs in a
basin, with the yolk of a hard-boiled one rubbed through a sieve; add
half a saltspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white
pepper, and commence stirring round with a wooden spoon with the right
hand, holding a bottle of salad oil in the left, dropping it in by
degrees and continually stirring; when becoming thickish add a couple of
spoonfuls of common vinegar by degrees, still keeping it stirred, then
more oil, proceeding thus until you have used three parts of a pint of
oil, and a corresponding quantity of vinegar; by continually
working it will form a stiffish cream-looking sauce perfectly smooth;
add a little more seasoning if required, and a teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, with half that quantity of chopped eschalots; pour over
the lobster and serve. Should the sauce curdle in making, the
operation must be again performed, putting a yolk of an egg into another
basin, working it with a little oil until forming a stiffish
paste, then stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until the whole
becomes smooth; always choose a cool place to make it in. This requires a
little practice.   208.--ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF. 
 A pound of the best anchovies, two quarts of water, two
bay-leaves, some whole pepper, a little scraped horseradish, a
little thyme, two blades of mace, six shalots chopped small, a
gill of port wine, half the rind of a lemon, a gill of
ketchup; boil them together for twenty minutes, then rub them through a
tammy with a wooden spoon; when cold put it into pint bottles, cork them close,
and keep them in a dry place.   209.--TOAST of ANCHOVIES. 
 Prepare toast; fillet some anchovies, pound them in a mortar,
add a little butter well pounded into it, a little cayenne
pepper, a few drops of lemon-juice; take it out and spread it on
the toast.   210.--ANCHOVIES WITH FRIED BREAD. 
 Cut some bread thin, then cut out with a plain paste cutter
the quantity you require, as you will put one on the other; fry them in
lard a very nice brown, then fillet and pound anchovies as
before; add a little parsley, and a grain of shalot, rub all through a
fine wire or hair sieve, spread one of your toasts rather thick, place another
piece of bread on the top; have ready some more filleted
anchovies, and garnish each toast, using pickles likewise,
or parsley.   211.--TO KNOW GOOD ANCHOVIES. 
 The best look red and mellow, and the bones moist and oily, the flesh
high flavored, and a fine smell; if the liquor and fish become dry, add
to it a little beef brine.   212.--CHOWDER--A SAILOR'S DISH. 
 Cut salmon, halibut, or any rich fish, into
steaks an inch thick; season them highly with pepper,
salt, and cayenne; put a layer of sliced potatoes (raw) in the
bottom of the stewpan; then a layer of broken cabin-biscuit; next the
fish; then a layer of thin sliced ham. Fill the stewpan in this
manner; finish with a large piece of butter. Add water enough to
moisten the whole; stew slowly two hours, never stirring, but occasionally
shaking the pan to prevent it burning to the bottom. If it gets too dry, add a
little more water.   213.--CRAB, 
 Though not so well-known as the lobster, is looked upon by many as
being a better-flavored fish, and perhaps rather  more digestible. The female is considered inferior to the
male, and may be known by the claws being smaller, and the tail much wider. The
heaviest are usually thought to be the best, but those of a middling size are
the sweetest. If light, they are watery; when in perfection the joints of the
legs are stiff, and the body has a very agreeable smell. The eyes look
dead and loose when stale, or when the fish have died a natural death.
They are boiled in the same manner as lobster, but require rather longer
time, and are most usually eaten 
 cold  with oil and vinegar, as
thus:--Pick out all the fish from the shell, divide it into small
pieces, mixing the rich part well with the rest; moisten it with salad
dressing, and return it to the shell with an edge all round with sliced
lemon. 
 If 
 hot,  pick the fish out as above; then put the
meat, with a little nutmeg, salt, pepper, bits of
butter, crumbs of bread, and three spoonfuls of vinegar,
into the shell again, and set it before the fire. You may brown it with a
salamander, but it should be always served in the shell. Dry toast
should be served to eat with it. Observe to remove "the lady," as it is
called.   214.--TO BOIL CRABS. 
 Having boiled them twenty minutes, wipe them, crack the claws, rub the
shells with oil, and dish them as lobster. To cook soft
crabs, take away the claws, cut them open, and remove the sand bag and
spongy part; then put some butter into a frying-pan, and do them brown
on both sides.   215.--TO STEW CRABS. 
 Pick the meat carefully out of a large crab and its claws; cut
into small pieces, mix it with about a fourth part of bread-crumbs, and
a very small quantity of finely shred parsley. Season it well, and
return it to the shell with some small bits of butter here and there,
enough, when warmed, to keep it moist. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over
it, or a spoonful of lemon-pickle or acid sauce. Put a thick
layer of crumbs of bread upon the top with small bits of butter
laid all over it, and bake it in the shell before the fire, or in the oven. The
shell of one crab will contain the meat of two. 
 
 Or: --Boil them, take the meat out of the
bodies and the large claws, put it into a stewpan with half a pint of claret, a
spoonful of eschalot-vinegar, a little cayenne, some salt,
and a piece of butter: let them stew for an hour over a gentle fire,
until they are almost dry. Then add a small quantity of fish-stock or
gravy, a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a small piece
of butter rolled in flour. Serve with sippets of fried
bread round the dish. 
 
 Another way  is to put the meat into a stewpan
with half a pint of white wine, a spoonful of eschalot or
garlic vinegar, a little parsley and thyme minced fine,
the yolks of three eggs boiled hard and minced small, and some
salt and cayenne pepper. Let it stew gently till quite tender and
almost dry; then add a piece of butter, stir it about for a few minutes
over the fire, wash the shells, butter them, put the stewed meat
into them, and serve on a napkin.   216.--SMALL CRABS AND
CRAYFISH 
 Are made sometimes into soup, but more commonly plain, boiled for about a
quarter of an hour and eaten cold. In the lower parts of Germany they are eaten
hot, with rye-bread and butter, and are there a favorite supper
dish in the heat of summer.   217.--TO STEW CRAYFISH. 
 Boil them in salt and water, pick the meat out of the tails
and claws, put them  into a stewpan with a little
butter, some mushrooms, and truffles; moisten them with a
little fish-stock, and simmer a short time over a gentle fire. When
nearly done, beat the yolks of two or three eggs with a teacupful
of cream and a little chopped parsley; let all stew together for
a few minutes, stirring it all the time, and serve up in a deep dish. 
 218.--SOFT SHELLED CRABS. 
 Fry the crabs in lard, having taken off the spongy substance,
and the sand bag. Crisp parsley in the fat after they come out,
and add pepper and salt and rich milk, for the
gravy.   219.--TERRAPINS. 
 Put them in boiling water to kill them; then skin them and
take off the nails, wash and put them on again to boil, adding a teaspoon of
salt to every two. When tender, remove the shells, sand bags, and
gall, carefully; cut up the meat, season it with pepper,
mace, and nutmeg, and put it in a stewpan with the juice
that has come out, and for every two terrapins, four ounces of
butter in flour, a glass of white wine and the yolks of
two eggs beaten. The wine and eggs to be added after the
whole is stewed perfectly tender.   220.--CRABS MINCED. 
 Remove the meat, mince small and place in a saucepan with a
wineglassful of white wine, pepper and salt,
nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of
vinegar. Let it stew for ten minutes; melt a piece of butter the
size of a hen's egg, with an anchovy and the yolks of two
eggs; beat up and mix well, stir in with the crab, and add
sufficient stale bread-crumbs to thicken. Garnish with thin toast
cut with a pastry leaf-cutter, or with the claws, and parsley.
Lobster may be dressed in the same manner.   221.--CRAYFISH
BUTTER. 
 Take the shells of twenty-four crayfish, clean them well from
skin and fibre, put them into an oven to dry, without burning or
browning, until they can be beaten to a fine powder; mix the powder very well
with three ounces of fresh butter, then put it into a stewpan with a
spoonful of hot water, mixing it well together; then squeeze the whole
through a tamis over a stewpan of boiling water; skim and butter
off into a basin of cold water, that it may set; when cold press it in a
napkin. 
 It forms a beautiful coloring addition to many kinds of dishes, fish
especially, and, when mixed with the meat pounded after being taken from
the shells, makes fine sauce.   222.--OYSTERS 
 Depend very much for goodness upon the beds from which they have been taken.
There are several kinds. 
 They all come into season, according to an old saying, "so long as there is
an R in the month." They are, however, not perfectly good until the beginning
of October, and should go out at the end of March. 
 When the fish is alive and strong, the shell closes on the knife.
They should be eaten as opened, the flavor becoming poor if long exposed to the
air.   223.--TO SCALLOP OYSTERS. 
 Take twelve of the smaller sort, beard them, cut out the hard part
which adheres to their shells, and leave them in their liquor; have ready a
quantity of crumbs of fresh bread, not too finely grated, and mixed with
a little pepper and salt; then grease a
scallop-shell, strew upon it some of the crumbs with bits of
butter, and lay upon them a layer of the oysters; then crumbs,
bits of butter, and oysters, layer upon layer,  until the shell is filled up; cover it with a thick coating
of the crumbs well buttered, and brown it in a Dutch oven. A dozen
oysters, with a proper quantity of crumbs, will fill up the largest
scallop-shell, and take an hour to be thoroughly done. 
 Some cooks scald the oysters for five minutes, in their own liquor,
and mix with them minced shalot, or chives, and pot-herbs; but
these, although they may please an epicurean palate, will destroy the natural
flavor of the oyster.   224.--TO SCALLOP OYSTERS. 
 For one hundred oysters, take four eggs, boiled hard,
and chopped very fine; mix them with a sixpenny loaf crumbled or grated, and
add pepper and salt to taste. Put some of the mixture in the
bottom of a pie dish, and lay on it lightly a layer of oysters,
previously rinsed and drained; add a few bits of butter, then cover the
oysters with a layer of bread-crumbs and eggs; another
layer of oysters, and so on; covering the top with bread-crumbs.
Bake it three-quarters of an hour.   225.--TO MAKE OYSTER FRITTERS. 
 Make a batter with milk, flour, and eggs, beaten light.
Have some lard quite hot; dip out a tablespoonful of the batter, put an
oyster into it, and let it down into the boiling lard carefully
and fry it on both sides. This is a better plan than mixing the oysters
and batter together.   226.--TO BROIL OYSTERS. 
 Take them from the shells, beard them, and put them with their liquor into
tin shapes made to imitate scallops, six in a shell (not more), with a
little pepper and butter. Put the shells upon a gridiron over a
good fire, and serve them when plump and quite hot. They are delicious this
way; but to be eaten in perfection should be cooked in the room where they are
eaten. Squeeze a little lemon-juice over them when they come from the
fire. 
 
 Or: --They may be put singly in their under shells
along with their own liquor, a little minced parsley and spice,
and a bit of butter, and thus put upon the gridiron, to be taken off
when thoroughly heated.   227.--WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 Beard the oysters, wash them in their own liquor, then strain it,
thicken it with melted butter, or white sauce made of
cream, not milk, and flour; season it with a blade of
mace and a few whole pepper-corns tied in a muslin bag. Simmer the
oysters very gently, and serve up with sippets of bread: they
will require only a few minutes, and if allowed to boil will become
hard.   228.--WITH BROWN SAUCE. 
 Wash the oysters in their liquor, and then strain it, add a glass of
wine, two spoonfuls of beef-gravy, some whole pepper, a
little salt, a piece of butter, and a spoonful of
lemon-juice; boil the whole, stirring it until it is smooth, then put
in the oysters, and warm or plump them up without boiling. 
 229.--OYSTER ROLLS. 
 Take about a quart of the largest and finest oysters you can procure,
stew them in their own liquor with some pepper, a very little
mace, and some green onion chopped fine, thicken them with a
little butter and a dust of flour when nearly done enough. Take
two French rolls of the square sort baked in tins, cut a piece off the
top, and scoop out the greater part of the crumb, fill your roll with the
oysters and the liquor, and set them near the fire on a chafing-dish
filled with hot coals; as the liquor soaks in fill them with more, or if
you have not any left, add a little good gravy boiling-hot.  
 
 Or: --Let them first soak; then fasten in the top,
cover the entire of the roll in batter, and bake it in the Dutch oven till well
browned. 
 
 Or: --Mince the oysters, season them only with
mace and nutmeg, and fill the rolls up with cream or rich
white sauce, and bake them as above: even one large roll will make a
nice little dish, and is better than the smaller sort.   230.--OYSTER
SAUSAGES 
 May also be made of the larger kind, bearded and minced small, together with
a moderate quantity of beef suet and bread-crumbs, to which
should be added a forcemeat of pounded pork or veal,
seasoned with spice and put into the usual skins. If well
seasoned, they will keep good for a full week: one pound of beef suet
shred fine, and the same quantity of forcemeat, with
bread-crumbs, should be put to each pint of oysters. 
 
 Or: --Take one-half pound of lean beef or
mutton, three-quarters pound of beef suet, two score of
oysters bearded and scalded in their own liquor, then dried and all
chopped together, adding bread-crumbs and yolks of eggs to bind
the materials. Season well with salt, white pepper, mace,
and a grate of nutmeg; or if you wish to make it very savory,
leave out the mace and nutmeg, but add a little cayenne,
with a minced shalot and a spoonful of garlic-vinegar. They may be
either made as sausages, or fried into shapes in the usual way. 
 231.--OYSTERS À L'IMPERIALE. 
 Procure, quite fresh, a barrel of oysters, packed as for transmission
to the country. Put into a vessel large enough to contain the barrel sufficient
water, that when the barrel is in, it may be covered. Heat the
water to a boil; when it is boiling, put in the barrel of oysters
just as you have received it from the oysterseller; let it boil twelve minutes;
take it out, knock off the head, and serve immediately. The flavor of
the hot oyster will be found delicious.   232.--OYSTER CURRY. 
 Blanch and beard six dozen oysters, leaving them in their own liquor;
then cut two middling-sized onions into small dice, and sauté
them in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter; when done, mix in two
teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste, and pass all
through a tammy--it ought to be thick; then add the oysters with their
liquor, and keep stirring over the fire until the oysters become
enveloped in a thick sauce, which they should be in two minutes, when
turn them out upon you dish, and serve with rice separately. 
 233.--ROAST OYSTERS. 
 Large oysters not opened, a few minutes before they are wanted, put
on a gridiron over a moderate fire. When done they will open; do not lose the
liquor that is in the shell with the oyster; send them hot upon a
napkin.   234.--AN OYSTER PIE, WITH SWEETBREADS. 
 Blanch them and take off the beards, separate them from the liquor, blanch
some throat sweetbreads, and when cold cut them in slices, then lay them
and the oysters in layers in your dish, season with salt,
pepper, a few grains of mace and nutmeg; add some thick
sauce, a little cream, and the oyster liquor, and some
good veal stock; bake in a slow oven.   235.--BREADED OYSTERS. 
 Scoop out the crumb from a small loaf, or some small rolls of bread,
and put into the cavity oysters stewed with butter and
mace, and a little of their liquor, with two or three spoonfuls of
rich milk  added as they are done. Put on
the top of the rolls, the pieces sliced off; set them in the oven a few
minutes, and serve on a dish, hot.    Stewpan.  An illustration of a handled pan that also has a handled lidded.     236.--STEWED
OYSTERS. 
 The oysters should be bearded and rinsed in their own liquor, which
should then be strained and thickened with flour and butter, and
placed with the oysters in a stewpan; add mace,
lemon-peel cut into threads, some white pepper whole; these
ingredients had better be confined in a piece of muslin. The stew must simmer
only; if it is suffered to boil, the oysters will become hard;
serve with sippets of bread. This may be varied by adding a glass of
wine to the liquor, before the oysters are put in and warmed. 
 237.--SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 
 Beard the oysters, wash in their own liquor, steep
bread-crumbs in the latter, put them with the oysters into
scallop shells, with a bit of butter and seasoning of
salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; make a paste of
bread-crumbs and butter; cover, and roast them before the fire, or
in an oven.   238.--PICKLED OYSTERS IN THE FRENCH WAY.--(A supper
dish.) 
 Take four dozen oysters, strain the liquor, add six blades of
mace, twelve peppercorns, a little grated lemon-peel,
and two or three bay-leaves. Put the liquor to boil; when boiling, add the
oysters for two minutes. (Some persons put half vinegar, half
liquor.) When cold, strain off the liquor. Place the oysters in a small
dish, and garnish with parsley.   239.--PICKLED OYSTERS. (By a
Lady of New York.) 
 Scald the oysters in their liquor, or in water with a little
salt; take them out with a skimmer, and throw them into cold
water. Take whole allspice, black pepper and mace, and
boil it up in the liquor in which the oysters were boiled; when it
tastes enough of the spices take it off. Let the oysters drain on
a sieve. When the liquor is cold add vinegar to taste, and then put in
the oysters.   240.--TO DRESS COLD FISH. 
 Dip a flat dish in 
 hot  water, to prevent cracking; smear it with
butter, and sprinkle white pepper on it; then a thick layer of
stale bread, grated fine; a layer of the fish, picked from
bones, and broken small; a little melted butter--prepared without
milk--poured over another layer of bread--then of fish,
with butter as before; repeated as often as required for quantity of
fish, and size of dish. Smooth the surface with a spoon, and sprinkle
slightly fine bread, mixed with white pepper on the top. Place it
for twenty or thirty minutes, according to thickness, before a brisk fire, with
a tin shade at back of dish, to reflect the heat. Cold washed mutton may
be redressed the same way; first wiping the meat, quite free from
gravy, in a napkin.    Fish Scissors, to trim pan-fish for frying.  An illustration of a pair of scissors.     241.--CASSEROLE OF FISH. 
 Is a title given, among others, by  French
cooks, to 
 "poisson rechauffé,"  or fish which has
been left after being dressed, and is meant to be re-heated. There are almost
as many modes of doing this, as of originally dressing the various sorts; but
we here only retain a few of the most simple:-- 
 Take any kind of cold fish, and divide it into large flakes; boil two
or three eggs hard, and cut them into slices; have also some mashed
potatoes; butter a mould, and put in the fish, eggs,
and potatoes, with a little delicate seasoning of white pepper;
moisten the whole with cream, or thin melted butter, and a
spoonful of essence of anchovies; boil the mould and turn it out. 
 
 Or: --Take some fish which has been dressed,
and rub it through a sieve; to half a pound of fish allow a quarter of a
pound of bread-crumbs, two eggs well beaten, one tablespoonful of
essence of anchovies, one of Harvey sauce, and a little
salt and cayenne pepper; mix all well together, and put it into a
mould; let it boil half an hour, and serve it with a good fish-sauce in
the dish. 
 
 Or: --Take half a pint of good gravy, with a
couple of glasses of wine, two tablespoonfuls of anchovy liquor,
and two of vinegar, seasoned high with cayenne, mustard,
salt, and shalot; mince the fish, but do not put it in the
mortar, and either warm it as a fricassee, and bring it up in a dish with
sippets; or, put it into a form, piled up high in the centre, cover it with
bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and brown it with a
salamander.   242.--FISH TURTLE. (English.) 
 For this imitation, sturgeon is the best material, but, if not in season,
cut some ling into handsome pieces, and fry it; then boil an equal quantity of
skate, also cut in pieces; and having cleaned and soaked two or three
cod-sounds, stew them until green, with a little spinach, and cut
them into pieces; then have a sufficient quantity of good gravy, into
which the liquor of two or three dozen of oysters has been strained;
thicken it with cream or butter; put it into a stewpan with the
fish already named, a lobster cut in pieces, a spoonful of
essence of anchovies, and a glass of Madeira. Warm the whole
together, and send it to table with a lemon garnish. The sauce to
this dish must be very rich, and of a fine dark color.   243.--FISH
PÂTÊ. 
 This is a pretty mode of enclosing a fricassee of fish with a
potato wall without a crust of pastry. Mash in a mortar as many potatoes
as you may want, with a good piece of butter; then, with the bowls of
two silver spoons, raise a wall of it two and a half inches high within the rim
of the dish to be used. Let the upper part be a little thinner than the lower;
smooth it; and, after brushing it all over with egg, put it into the
oven to become hot, and a little colored. Before egging it, the outside may be
ornamented with flowers, leaves, &c., by the small tin shapes used to cut
paste. 
 Beat the whole of a crab picked clean from the shell in a marble
mortar, with white pepper and salt, nutmeg, and a very few
crumbs of bread; warm it with a little gravy thickened with
cream or butter and a spoonful of wine, and, when
thoroughly warmed, add a little lemon-juice. Pour it into potato
walls previously baked, but not covered like a pie, and serve it up hot, either
browning it with the salamander, or covering the top with fanicfully arranged
small claws.   244.--FISH CAKE. 
 Cut the meat from the bones, put 
them, the head and fins, over the fire to stew for gravy, with a
pint of water, an onion, herbs, pepper, and
salt. Mince the meat, put to it one-third part of crumbs of
bread, a little minced onion, parsley, pepper,
salt, and a very small bit of mace; mix well, and make it into a
cake with white of egg and a little melted butter; cover it with
raspings, and fry it a pale brown, keeping a plate on the top while doing. Then
lay it in a stewpan, with the fish gravy, and stew it gently a quarter
of an hour; turn it twice, but with great care not to break it: cover it
closely while stewing. 
 Cake of dressed meat, done in the same way, is remarkably good. 
 245.--FISH-CUTLETS. 
 Chop a considerable quantity of herbs with a small piece of shalot,
season it with pepper and salt, and put it into a stewpan with
two ounces of butter; as the butter is melting add a teaspoonful
of essence of anchovies. Do not allow the butter to more than
melt, and mix the whole well together; then cut any kind of white fish,
dressed or raw, into handsome cutlets, and, when the herb seasoning is
nearly cold, spread it on the fish thickly with a knife; dredge the
fish with bread-crumbs, and cook them on buttered pans in an
oven, or before the fire. Stew a few silver button-onions, or a chopped
onion, with any green vegetables in season, cut it into dice in a little
broth, add nasturtiums and a little of the pickle; keep
them in the middle of a dish, and lay the cutlets round. 
 
 Or: --Take any fish previously dressed, pull
it in pieces, and mix it with a little good stock, and any fish
sauce which may have been left from table; spread it on a flat dish, brush
it with egg and sprinkle thick with bread-crumbs, cut it out in
cutlets, and fry brown.   246.--KEDGEREE FOR BREAKFAST. 
 Boil two tablespoonfuls of rice, add any fish previously
cooked (salmon or turbot is preferable), and nicely picked; beat up an
egg well, and stir it in just before serving. The egg must not
boil.   247.--FRICANDELLES OF FISH. 
 Take any quantity that may be convenient of either dressed or undressed
fish of firm quality; skin and bone it; mince it of the
size of dice, with a few anchovies, say two to each pound, seasoned with
mace, cayenne, and a grating of nutmeg; soak the crumb of
a French roll, one to each pound, in milk, and beat it up with
the yolks of two eggs to each roll, so as to make it into a
purée, and put the fish into it; warm the whole gently, and add
to it a moderate quantity of cream. 
 Put the fish thus prepared into a buttered mould, cover it thickly
with bread-crumbs, and either bake it in a Dutch oven, or warm it before
the fire, and brown it with the salamander. 
 A few oysters are an excellent addition; and if 
 wine  be employed instead of 
 milk,  the dish may be dressed in the same
manner, but rather more highly seasoned.   248.--A MATELOTE OF FISH.
(English.) 
 Take carp or tench, or both, together with an eel and any
small fish; cut them into pieces, and put them along with a quantity of
button-onions into a stewpan containing just wine or gravy
enough of any sort to cover them, and let them stew very gently until nearly
done; then have ready a couple of minced truffles and a good handful of
shrimps to mix into the sauce, which may be made of either white
or red wine; the 
 red  may be made the more savory, but the 
 white wine  will be found the most delicate:
it should be thickened with yolk of egg, 
and the dish garnished with sippets of fried bread. 
 249.--RAGOÛT OF FISH. 
 Take carp, perch, pike, and eels; clean and scale them
well, and cut them into pieces for serving; put in your stewpan a good-sized
piece of butter, let it fry to a pale brown, fry some flour in
it, and add a quart or two of good bouillon with a glass or two of red
wine, and a few cloves and onions. When boiling put your
ragoût into it, let it well boil, and add some lemon-juice
before serving it up.   250.--A VOL-AU-VENT 
 Of fish, of any sort, is an elegant side-dish when prepared either
with meat gravy or made up maigre. 
 Muscles also make an excellent 
 vol-au-vent.    251.--STEWED FISH, HEBREW
FASHION. 
 Take three or four parsley-roots, cut them into long thin slices, and
two or three onions also sliced, boil them together in a quart of
water until quite tender; then flavor it with ground white
pepper, nutmeg, mace, and a little saffron, the
juice of two lemons, and a spoonful of vinegar. Put in the
fish, and let it stew for twenty, or thirty minutes; then take it out,
strain the gravy, thicken it with a little flour and
butter, have balls made of chopped fish, bread-crumbs,
spices, and the yolk of one or two eggs mixed up together,
and drop them into the liquor. Let them boil, then put in the fish, and
serve it up with the balls and parsley-roots.   252.--SAUCES FOR
FISH. 
 The stock for fish sauces should be made of the water
in which fish has been boiled, adding the bones, fins, &c.,
all well stewed down; when fish is filleted, the bones should
always be employed in this way: Stew them with an onion and a little
white pepper; strain the broth, which will be very rich, thicken
it with cream, butter, and flour, or roux, and add
whatever the sauce is to be made of. The following may be generally
used, according to fancy, for nearly every species of fish: 
 253.--HORSERADISH SAUCE. 
 Stew an onion in a little fish-stock until it will
pulp; add a teaspoonful of grated horseradish, and one or two
spoonfuls of essence of anchovies. Beat all together over a fire,
thicken it with a little butter, and finish with a spoonful of lemon
pickle or lemon juice. Vinegar may be substituted, in which
case it must be mixed with the horseradish, and boiled with it; while
the lemon, or lemon pickle, being of a more delicate flavor,
should only be warmed. 
 
 Or: --Scrape the horseradish thin and chop it
small, or grate it, which is better; warm it in melted butter, adding a
spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and one of walnut, or the
vinegar from walnut-pickle.   254.--FOR ALL SORTS OF
FISH. 
 Take a spoonful of vinegar, one of Indian soy, the same of
mushroom ketchup and Harvey's sauce, with a little
cayenne. Add three large spoonfuls of melted butter; stir all
well, and heat it over the fire. 
 
 Or: --Put equal quantities of water and
vinegar into a saucepan, and thicken it with the yolk of an egg
to every four spoonfuls of the water and vinegar. Make it quite
hot, but do not boil it; stir it or shake the pan all the time; season it to
your liking, and add a spoonful of the liquid to every three of melted
butter.   255.--WHITE SAUCE. 
 Half a pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls  of mushroom ketchup; one of essence of
anchovy, with a little cayenne pepper, and an ounce or two of
butter rolled in flour; boil all together for five minutes. 
 256.--BROWN SAUCE. 
 Fry an onion in butter and flour until it becomes
brown; then simmer it in a glass of port wine, with a tablespoonful of
soy and walnut ketchup, seasoned with salt and cayenne;
strain it, and thicken it with the necessary quantity of melted
butter.   257.--ANCHOVY SAUCE. 
 To about half a pint of melted butter put two tablespoonfuls of good
essence of anchovies, with the juice of half a lemon.
Serve very hot.   258.--FENNEL SAUCE. 
 This is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel. Make the
same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to which add a good
tablespoonful of chopped fennel; it is usually served in a boat. 
 259.--BUTTER of ANCHOVIES. 
 To make this butter you must have young anchovies. Take them
out of the pickle and wash them well. Take off the bones and
head, and then pound them in a mortar with fresh butter, till
very fine; rub this through a hair sieve. Put this butter when made,
into a pot well covered, to use when wanted; observe, however, that it soon
becomes rank.   260.--EGG SAUCE 
 Is generally served with salt fish or haddock. Boil six
eggs ten minutes; let them get cold; then cut them in pieces about the
size of dice; put them into a stewpan with three parts of a pint of melted or
drawn butter; add an ounce more fresh butter, with a little
pepper and salt; keep the stewpan moving round over the fire
until the whole is very hot, and serve in a boat.   261.--CAPER SAUCE
FOR FISH. 
 Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, and
when the sauce is in a state of readiness throw into it some choice
capers, salt and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of
anchovies.   262.--NEW LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 If you use the solid flesh for salad, pound the soft part and shell together
(in a mortar) very fine, which put into a stewpan, covered with a pint of
boiling water; place it over the fire to simmer for ten minutes, then
pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin; put three ounces of
butter into a stewpan, into which rub (cold) a good tablespoonful of
flour, add the liquor from the lobster, place it upon the fire,
stirring until the point of boiling; season with a little cayenne, and
add a piece of anchovy butter, the size of a walnut; or, if any
red spawn is in the lobster, mix it with butter, as in the last,
and add it, with the juice of half a lemon, just before serving.
An anchovy pounded with the lobster-shells would be an
improvement, and part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the
sauce.   263.--LOBSTER SAUCE À LA CRÊME. 
 Cut a small lobster into slices the size of half-crown pieces, which
put into a stewpan; pound the soft and white parts with an ounce of
butter, and rub it through a sieve; pour ten spoonfuls of melted
butter, and two of cream, over the slices in the stewpan, add
half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of
pepper, and a little cayenne; warm gently, and when upon the
point of boiling, add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick
cream; shake  round over the fire until
quite hot, when it is ready to serve.   264.--LOBSTER SAUCE
SIMPLIFIED. 
 Put the slices of lobster into a stewpan, with ten tablespoonfuls of
milk; add a little pepper, salt, cayenne, two
cloves, and half a blade of mace; set it upon the fire, and when
on the point of boiling, add a piece of butter the size of two
walnuts, with which you have mixed a little flour; shake round
over the fire, and when getting rather thick, add two spoonfuls of
cream, if at hand, and serve very hot.   265.--LOBSTER
SAUCE.--(French receipt.) 
 A hen lobster is indispensable for this sauce. Put some of the
spawn of the fish into a mortar, to be pounded very fine; add to it a
small bit of butter. When very fine, rub it through a hair sieve, and
cover till wanted. Break the lobster with great care, cut all the flesh
into dice, not too small; dilute some of the red spawn in melted butter,
with two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a little salt and
cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of thick cream, and mix all well
before the meat is added, as that must retain its dice-like form. Do not
let this sauce boil. It must be very red. Add to it a teaspoonful of
cavice, and observe that the cavice should be very old; two or three years' age
renders it excellent.   266.--SOYER'S LOBSTER AND SHRIMP SAUCE
FOR SALMON. 
 
 Lobster. --Put twelve spoonfuls of melted
butter into a stewpan; cut a middle-sized hen lobster into dice,
make one-quarter pound of lobster butter with the spawn by pounding it
well in a mortar, adding one-quarter pound fresh butter and rubbing the
mixture through a hair sieve; add this to the melted butter when just
boiling; stir it over the fire till the butter is melted; season with a
little essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon, and
a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne; pass it through a tamis (a coarse
flannel) into another stewpan; then add the flesh of the lobster. Serve
it hot. This sauce must be red; if not red in the lobster, use
live spawn. 
 
 Shrimp. --Make the melted butter as
above, but finish with essence of shrimps, and serve half a pint of pickled
shrimps in the boat with it; or the anchovy sauce may be served with
shrimps in it as a substitute, if there is no essence of shrimps. 
 267.--SHRIMP SAUCE 
 Is also very good as follows: Pound half a pint of shrimps, skins and
all, in a mortar, and boil them ten minutes in half a pint of water;
pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and add a piece of
butter the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed a good
teaspoonful of flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the point
of boiling; if too thick, add a little more water; season with a little
cayenne and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies; serve very
hot; a few picked shrimps might also be served in it.   268.--LOBSTER
SAUCE. 
 Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, cut up a
small-sized lobster into dice; make a quarter of a pound of lobster
butter with the spawn, as directed; when the melted butter is upon
the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the sauce
round over the fire until the butter is melted, season with a little
essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and a
quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it through a tammy
into another stewpan, and add the flesh of the lobster. This
sauce must be red.    269.--MATELOTE
SAUCE. 
 For about a pound slice of salmon make the following quantity of
sauce:--Peel thirty button onions, and put half a teaspoonful of
sugar in a quart-sized stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when
melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter (the size of two
walnuts) and the onions, toss them over now and then until rather
brown, then add a glass of sherry; let it boil; then add half a pint of
brown sauce and a gill of broth; simmer at the corner of the
fire until the onions are quite tender; skim it well, and add a few
mushrooms, if at hand; season with a little salt and
sugar, and sauce over any kind of fish where described.
The addition of a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies is an improvement.
Use where directed.   270.--MATELOTE SAUCE SIMPLIFIED. 
 Proceed as above respecting the onions, only add a fourth more
butter, and fry them a little browner; then add a glass of sherry
and two teaspoonfuls of flour, which stir round gently with a small
wooden spoon; add to it about a pint of water, stir now and then till
boiling, add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of sugar, one of
pepper, and a bouquet garni; simmer and skim, add a few drops of
coloring to give it a nice brown color; when ready to serve, add a good
tablespoonful of anchovy essence; it ought to adhere lightly to the back
of the spoon, but not be too thick; sauce over or under, as directed;
small pieces of glaze, if thickened with the eggs--(great care must be
exercised, for if it should become too hot the eggs would curdle, and
render the sauce useless;) then add half a pint of melted butter;
stir all together over the fire.   271.--OYSTER SAUCE. 
 Blanch three dozen oysters, which again put into the stewpan, with
their liquor (after having detached the beards); add six peppercorns and
half a blade of mace; place them over the fire, and when beginning to
simmer, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which
you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste, break it in four
or five pieces; shake the stewpan round over the fire, and when upon the point
of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a gill of milk, or more if
required; season with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, and
a few drops of essence of anchovies: serve very hot.   272.--MUSSEL
SAUCE. 
 Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, using only the liquor
of the mussels (not the beards) instead of the oysters, and
serving the mussels in the sauce; about four dozen would be
sufficient.   273.--COD SAUCE. 
 Take a bunch of parsley, chervil, two shalots, two
cloves, a bay-leaf, some mushrooms, and a bit of butter,
soak all together on the fire, adding a small spoonful of flour, and
milk or cream sufficient to boil to the consistence of a
sauce, and add to it some chopped parsley first scalded. 
 274.--EEL SAUCE. 
 Cut the eels into large pieces and put them into a stewpan with a few
slices of bacon, ham, veal, two onions, with all
sorts of roots; soak it till it catches, then add a glass of white wine
and good broth, a little cullis, three or four tarragon leaves,
chervil, a clove of garlic, two of spices, and a bay-leaf;
simmer for an hour, skim it very well, and sift it in a sieve for use. 
 275.--SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 Twenty-four anchovies chopped; ten 
eschalots; two ounces of horseradish, scraped; four blades of
mace; one lemon sliced; twelve cloves; quarter of an ounce of
black pepper, whole; one gill of the anchovy liquor; one quart of
best vinegar; one quart of water. Let the whole simmer on the
fire until reduced to one quart, in a covered saucepan; strain and bottle for
use. If required for long keeping, add a quarter of an ounce of cayenne
pepper.   276.--LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 Pick the meat from a lobster and cut it into small pieces.
Break the shell, and stew it with the legs, &c., in a pint and a
half of water, until reduced to the quantity required; then strain; add
flour and water to thicken it. Pound some of the live spawn from
the tail, adding a little water to it; when well pounded pour it by
degrees into the sauce; let it boil up; add fresh butter to it in
the proportion of three-fourths of a pound of butter to a quart of
sauce; throw in the lobster: season with a little anchovy,
cayenne, salt, and a small quantity of lemon-juice. It
should be thick rather than thin. 
 
 Or: --Take a cold boiled hen lobster; split
the tail, and pound the coral, which is found in the tail and in the
body, in a mortar, adding a little sweet oil. Then chop the meat
of the body into very small pieces, and rub it, along with the soft parts and
coral, through a sieve. That done, cut up the flesh of the claws and
tail into dice, and stir the entire mixture gradually into the proper quantity
of melted butter, without suffering it to boil; as, if too much heated,
the flavor and color of the sauce will be injured. The seasoning
should only be a moderate quantity of mace and cayenne, with half
a glass of white wine, or a cup of cream, to a pint tureen of
sauce. 
 
 Crab Sauce  is made in the same manner; but
crabs, being without coral, and the flesh less firm than that of
lobster, form a rather inferior sauce.   277.--SHRIMP
SAUCE. 
 Pick the heads and skins from some fresh shrimps and stew
these offals for half an hour in a small quantity of boiling water to
extract their flavor; then strain the liquor and make use of it in
melting the butter in which the shelled shrimps are to be dressed; these
are then to be put into the butter and liquor to simmer gently for about
twenty minutes, in which time they will be sufficiently done, and their flavor
is so delicate that neither anchovy sauce, mace, cayenne
pepper, nor any other condiment than salt, should be put to them;
add a little cream. 
 A pint of unshelled shrimps will make a tureen of sauce large enough
for four or five persons.   GRAVY, SAUCES, ETC. 
 THERE is nothing that requires more attention on the part of the cook than
the sauces which are wanted to all made dishes. Where a calf's
head or a breast of veal is stewed, nothing more will be
required, as both will yield an abundant supply, and it will only be necessary
to give it the proper flavor with ham, or beef-bone, and
ketchup.   GRAVY 
 May be made quite as good of the skirts of beef, kidney, or of
the liver of a fat ox, as of any other kind of meat, if cut in
pieces, fried with onions, and seasoned with herbs and
spices, as other gravies. A clever servant will contrive to
supply at a trifling expense, as much gravy as is wanted for the use of
a small  family by stewing down the trimmings of
meat and bones. It may even be made of the shank-bones of
legs and shoulders of mutton; they should be thrown into
water, and, after a good soaking and brushing, be long boiled. The
water in which they are done will add greatly to the richness of
gravy, as does the jelly of cow-heels. The latter must lie all
night in water, which causes the jelly to be of a good color.
When boiled three hours, and become cold, let the fat be carefully taken
off; and when apparently quite clear, lay some white paper upon it,
rubbing it close with a spoon, which will remove every particle of
grease and it will be as pure as the jelly of a calf's
foot. 
 In 
 preparing meat to stew for gravy,  beat
it with a mallet or rolling-pin, and score it across in various places, as this
will make it give out its juices; season it with pepper and
salt, and put it into a stewpan with butter only, heating it
gradually until it becomes brown, but shaking the pan frequently to see that it
does not burn or stick to the bottom. It will generally be browned sufficiently
in half an hour. If kept in a very cool place and covered closely in a stone
jar, it will keep good for two or three days in summer, and more than a week in
winter, but should not be thickened until it is meant to be used. 
 Tarragon and knotted marjoram, by some called "London
thyme," are a great improvement to gravies, as also all those
condiments enumerated in the chapter on soups, but should be added only a short
time before serving. 
 Truffles and morels also thicken and improve the flavor of
gravies and soups; half an ounce being carefully washed of each, simmer
them in a pint of water, and add the whole. 
 In the preparation of large dinners for company, it is indispensable to
procure strong gravy to color and impart flavor to sauces and ragouts,
and this can be done by using coarse pieces of the lean of beef or
veal, and the giblets or trimmings of poultry and game,
with a small portion of a knuckle of ham; but for this purpose it must
be stewed for a long time, skimmed, strained, thickened, and afterwards
flavored with whatever condiments are most suited to the dish it is to
accompany.   278.--STOCK FOR GRAVY. 
 A good mode of making stock for gravies is to cut lean
beef thin, put it into a gravy pot without any butter or
fat, and set it on a fire covered, but take care it does not burn; let
it stay till all the gravy that comes out of the meat is dried up
into it again, often shaking it; put as much water as will cover the
meat, and let that stew away. Then put to the meat a small
quantity of water, herbs, onions, spice, and a bit
of lean ham; simmer till it is rich, and keep it in a closet
refrigerator. Do not take off the fat till going to be used. 
 {Illistration} Closet Refrigorator 
 
 Or,  an 
 excellent stock  may be made in this
manner:--Put into a casserole three ounces of butter, four large
carrots, six middling-sized onions, three roots of parsley
sliced; a small sprig of thyme; three cloves; three bay-leaves;
two pounds of small fresh fish cut fine, with salt,
pepper, and one-half a bottle of white (but not sweet)
wine, and nearly as much broth. Cover close, and simmer until
the  whole be mashed; strain it through a fine
sieve. In another casserole stew a pint of mushrooms, a little
parsley and herbs in half a pint of water, till the flavor
of all be obtained; strain both liquors, and heat them together. 
 279.--BEEF GRAVY. 
 Cut a piece of the cheek or neck into pieces; strew some flour
over it; mix it well with the meat, and put it into the saucepan with as
much water as will cover it; an onion, a little allspice,
a little pepper, and some salt; cover it close, and when it boils
skim it; then throw in a small crust of bread, or raspings, and stew it
till the gravy is rich and good; strain it off, and pour it into a
sauce boat.   280.--GRAVY FOR A HAUNCH OF VENISON. 
 Cut off the fat from two or three pounds of a loin of old
mutton, and set it in steaks on a gridiron for a few minutes, just
to brown one side; put them into a saucepan with a quart of water; cover
quite close for an hour, and simmer it gently; then uncover it, and stew till
the gravy is reduced to a pint; season with salt only. 
 281.--VEAL GRAVY. 
 When all the meat has been taken from a knuckle of veal,
divide the bones, and lay them in a stewpot, with a pound of the scrag
of a neck, an ounce of lean bacon, a bunch of parsley, a
little thyme, a bit of lemon peel, and a dessert-spoonful of
pepper; add as much water as will cover them. Boil and skim it;
stop the pot down close, and let it simmer as slowly as possible three hours.
Strain off, and let it stand till cold; then skim it, and take the jelly
from the sediment. Pound some mace fine, and boil it with two spoonfuls
of water, and add to the gravy. If cream is to be put to
it, do not add the salt until the gravy comes off the fire. 
 282.--GRAVY TO MAKE MUTTON EAT LIKE VENISON. 
 Pick a very stale woodcock or snipe; cut it in pieces (but first take
out the bag from the entrails), and simmer with as much unseasoned
meat-gravy as you will want. Strain it and serve in the dish; but if the
mutton be not long kept, it will not acquire the venison
flavor.   283.--VELOUTÉ. 
 Take one pound of veal, with the remains of a fowl and a dozen
full-grown mushrooms, or a smaller number of green truffles; heat
these in melted butter, or beef fat, without browning; season
with salt, pepper, nutmeg, or mixed spices, to
which may be added a couple of carrots and onions, with a
table-spoonful or two of flour. When boiled, skim off the fat,
and let it simmer for one and a half hours, after which strain it, and keep it
closely stopped for further use.   284.--BEEF GRAVY. (French Receipt.) 
 Trim with layers of fat bacon the bottom of a thick stewpan; cut four
large onions in halves, and lay the flat part over the bacon;
take a few pieces of beef, put them in the same manner as in the veal
gravy; moisten with the first broth only. Let this sweat, to get all
the gravy out of the beef, and when the broth is reduced,
thrust a knife into the meat; let it stew gently on a slow fire till the
gravy is a light brown color. Next moisten with some broth; throw
in a large bunch of parsley and of green onions; a little
salt, and a peppercorn. Let the whole boil for an hour; take the
fat off, and drain it through a silken sieve, to use when wanted. 
 285.--GRAVY--CLEAR. 
 Slice some beef thinly, broil a part of it over a very clear, quick
fire, just enough to give color to the gravy, but  not to dress it; put that with the raw into a tinned stewpan
with a couple of onions, one or two cloves, whole black
pepper, berries of allspice, and a bunch of sweet herbs;
cover it with hot water, give it one boil, and skim it two or three
times, then cover it, and let it simmer till quite strong.   286.--CURRY
POWDERS. 
 One ounce of ginger, the same of coriander-seed, one-half
ounce of cayenne pepper, and two ounces of fine pale turmeric;
these ingredients to be pounded separately to a fine powder, and then warmed by
the fire, and mixed together. Put the powder into a wide-mouthed bottle, cork
it well down, and put it into a dry place. 
 
 Or: --One tablespoonful of coriander-seed, one
teaspoonful of cumin-seed, the same of turmeric and of cayenne
pepper, and one table-spoonful of common flour. When to be used mix
all these ingredients in their several proportions, with two table-spoonfuls of
lemon-pickle and four of cream adding this mixture to the fried
onions and butter, &c. 
 
 Or: --One and a half ounces of mustard-seed
scorched and finely powdered, four ounces of coriander seed powdered,
four and a half ounces of turmeric, three ounces of black pepper,
one and a quarter ounces of cayenne pepper, one ounce of the lesser
cardamoms, one-half ounce of ginger, and one of
cumin-seed, all finely powdered. The flavor may be varied by the
addition of all or any of the following ingredients: cinnamon, in
powder, one ounce; cloves, ditto, one-half ounce; mace, ditto,
one-half ounce.  
 287.--CURRY POWDER. (Kitchiner's tried Receipt.) 
 Dry and reduce to a fine powder the following spices:
Coriander-seed, three ounces, Turmeric, three ounces, Black
pepper, one ounce, Mustard, one ounce, Ginger, one ounce,
Lesser cardamoms half an ounce, Cayenne pepper, a quarter of an
ounce, Cumin-seed, a quarter of an ounce. 
 Thoroughly pound and mix, and keep them in a closely stopped bottle. Three
ounces of the powder steeped ten days in a quart of vinegar or white
wine, will impregnate it with the flavor.  
 288.--DELHI CURRY
POWDER. 
 Twenty teaspoonfuls of turmeric, eight of pounded chilis or
cayenne pepper, and twelve each of cumin, coriander-seed,
and dried cassia-leaves.   289.--A PLAIN CURRY. 
 Put into a fryingpan a piece of butter, a small onion cut into
pieces, and two cloves of garlic; fry these until brown, put the
meat to the above, and add the curry powder, and sufficient
cold water to cover the meat, and boil the whole gently until the
meat is cooked; then add the juice of a lemon, and a little
salt.   290.--THE ASPIC, A JELLY. 
 Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as burnet,
chervil, and tarragon. Boil them in white vinegar; when
the vinegar is well scented, pour into the stewpan some consommé
of fowl reduced; season well before you clarify. When the aspic is
highly seasoned, break the whites of four eggs into an earthen pan, and
beat them with an osier rod; throw the aspic into the whites of eggs,
and put the whole on the fire in a stewpan; keep beating or stirring till the
jelly gets white; it is then very near boiling. Put it on the
corner of the stove, with a cover over it, and a little fire on the top of
it. When quite clear and bright, strain it through a bag, or sieve, or napkin,
to be used when wanted.  
 N. B. If this is wanted for a mayonaise, or as a jelly in moulds,
make sure of its being stiff enough. Then put a knuckle of veal in a
small stock-pot, a small part of a knuckle of ham, and two
calves' feet, some trimming of fowl or game. Season
this with onions, carrots, and a bunch of herbs well
seasoned; pour into it half a bottle of white wine and moisten with good
broth; let it boil gently for four hours, then skim away all the
fat, and drain it through a silken sieve; put that in a stewpan, with
two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and four whites of eggs,
salt, and pepper, to clarify; and keep stirring it on the fire
till the whole becomes very white, then put this on the side with a
little fire over the cover; when you find it clear, drain it in a cloth or
jelly-bag, and use it for aspic; if not, do not put in any vinegar:
jelly for pie or galantine does not require acid.   291.--EPICUREAN
SAUCE. 
 Indian soy, two ounces; walnut and mushroom ketchup, of each
eight ounces; port wine, two ounces; white pepper, bruised, half
an ounce; shalots, three ounces; cayenne, a quarter of an ounce;
cloves, half an ounce. Macerate for fourteen days in a warm place;
strain, and add sufficient white wine vinegar to make exactly one pint.
The above forms a piquant sauce for chops, steaks, &c. For
fish, a little essence of anchovy, and an additional quantity of
vinegar, should be added.   292.--CARRACK OR INDIAN SAUCE FOR
COLD MEAT. 
 Two heads of garlic sliced, five spoonfuls of soy, five spoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup, eight spoonfuls of walnut pickle, fifteen
anchovies, or five spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, three
spoonfuls of mango pickle, one quart of vinegar--mix in a bottle
and set it in the chimney corner; shake daily for a month. It is excellent
without the mango. [This is an excellent sauce, and without the
mango would be mild.]   293.--HOT SPICE--A DELICIOUS ADJUNCT TO
CHOPS, STEAKS, GRAVIES, SOUPS, &c. 
 Three drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and
cinnamon; seven cloves; mace half an ounce; cayenne
one quarter of an ounce; nutmegs one ounce; white pepper, one
ounce and a half; mix. The quantity of cayenne may be increased, should
the above not be enough to suit the palate.   294.--A RICH GRAVY. 
 Cut beef into thin slices, according to the quantity wanted; slice
onions thin, and flour both; fry them of a light pale brown, but
do not on any account suffer them to get black: put them into a stewpan, pour
boiling water on the browning in the frying-pan, boil it up, and pour on
the meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
savory, a small bit of knotted marjoram, the same of
tarragon, some mace, berries of allspice, whole black
pepper, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, or gammon of
bacon. Simmer till you have extracted all the juices of the
meat, and be sure to skim the moment it boils, and often after. If for a
hare, or stewed fish, anchovy should be added. 
 295.--MELTED BUTTER. 
 Although it may be presumed that every cook who understands her business
knows how to melt butter, it is yet constantly brought to table either
too thick or too thin, and not unfrequently filled with lumps of flour
or in a state of oil, and requires more care in the management than is
generally thought necessary.  
 The excellence of melted butter greatly depends upon the pains taken
to blend it with the flour before it is put upon the fire, the best plan
of doing which is to rub them together with a knife on a wooden trencher. When
well mixed, add two table-spoonfuls of hot water, or the same quantity
of milk; put it into a small pipkin, shaking it one way until it boils
and not leaving it an instant; it must boil a minute to take off the rawness,
and if made of 
 fresh butter  add a little salt.
Remember that if you set it on the hot coals, or over the fire, it will
be oily; if the butter and flour be not well mixed, it will be
lumpy; and if you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. By
attending to these directions, and only using sufficient flour to
prevent the butter from oiling, it will be rich and smooth.  
 
 Or: --Mix together by degrees two spoonfuls of
flour in cold water; make it smooth and thin; then put on a pint
of water, let it boil, stir in the flour and water to make
the required thickness, cut half a pound of fresh butter in small
pieces, put it into the flour and water, let it boil well; it is
then fit for use; a pinch of salt may be required. 
 When 
 thin melted butter  is required to pour over
puddings, roast veal, &c., make it the same way, adding a larger
proportion of water or milk, the latter rendering it rather
whiter than the water; and if meant to be more rich than common use
cream instead of milk. Indeed the French frequently enrich melted
butter by adding the yolk of a raw egg.   296.--MAÎTRE
D'HÔTEL BUTTER. 
 Put one-fourth of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate, the juice
of two lemons, and two large table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley,
half a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white
pepper; mix all well together, and keep in a cool place for use. 
 297.--TO BROWN MELTED BUTTER. 
 Put a lump of butter into a frying-pan, and toss it round over the
fire until it becomes brown; then dredge some flour over it, which has
been also browned by putting it either in the oven or before the fire, and stir
it round with a spoon until the butter boils. 
 By adding some of the flavored vinegars and compound sauces to melted
butter thus prepared, most of the fish-sauces can be made, and
many of those in common use are composed in this simple manner. 
 298.--PARSLEY AND BUTTER. 
 Scald a large handful of parsley in boiling water that has
some salt in it; when tender chop it fine, and stir it into some rather
thick melted butter. There should be sufficient parsley to make
the sauce green, and the parsley should not be put to the melted
butter until about to be served, otherwise it will burn, brown. 
 299.--FENNEL SAUCE. 
 Proceed as for parsley and butter. 
 The first is used for the various purposes of fish, poultry, and
fresh boiled meats; fennel mostly for mackerel. 
 300.--CAPER SAUCE, WHITE. 
 Put whole capers into melted butter, adding a little of the
vinegar they are pickled in, a pinch of salt, and sufficient
cream to make it white. This is used principally for boiled
mutton.   301.--CAPER SAUCE, BROWN. 
 Take some thick brown sauce, adding the vinegar the
capers are pickled in; season it highly with cayenne and
salt. Put capers to the sauce just before serving; and
they must be used liberally. 
 Nasturtium buds or seeds are sometimes used as a
substitute.    302.--EGG SAUCE. 
 Boil the eggs hard, cut them in small dice, and put the pieces into
melted butter. The yolk may however be crushed to a powder, and
used to thicken the butter. Or, if a more savory sauce is
required, boil two eggs hard, mince them very fine, add a third portion
of grated ham or tongue, a very little white pepper, and
the juice of a lemon; warm it up in melted butter. It is chiefly
used for roast fowl and salt codfish; and if the butter be
sound, the salted will be found quite as good for all these purposes as the
fresh.   303.--SAUCES FOR ROAST BEEF OR MUTTON. 
 Grate horseradish on a bread-grater into a basin, then add two
table-spoonfuls of cream with a little mustard and salt;
mix them well together; then add four table-spoonfuls of the best
vinegar, and mix the whole thoroughly. The vinegar and
cream are both to be cold. This is a very fine sauce; it may be
served in a small tureen. 
 
 Or: --Scrape the horseradish thin and chop it
small, or grate it, which is better; warm it in melted butter, adding a
spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and one of walnut, or the
vinegar from walnut pickle. 
 
 Or: --Scrape very fine or grate the
horseradish; add a little made mustard, and two spoonfuls of
pounded white sugar to four of vinegar: mix the whole well
together, and place it under the meat, when nearly done, to catch the
gravy which drops from it while roasting. This sauce should be
very thick.   304.--HORSERADISH SAUCE. 
 Two teaspoonfuls of mustard, two of white sugar, half a one of
salt, and a little more than a wineglass of vinegar--mixed and
poured over a stock of grated horseradish. This sauce is
good for beef.   305.--QUEEN MARY'S SAUCE. 
 Take a shoulder of mutton that has hung till it is tender. When three
parts roasted, put a soup-plate under it, with three spoonfuls of hot
water, the same of port wine, a shalot, an anchovy chopped
fine, and a little pepper; baste the meat with this and the
gravy that drops from it. When the mutton is taken up, turn the
inside upwards, score it various ways, pour the gravy over, and cover it
with a quantity of fried crumbs of bread.   306.--MANDRAM, 
 Is a sauce commonly used in the West Indies with roast beef
and mutton. It is made with a sliced cucumber, a chopped shalot,
and a minced green capsicum, mixed up in a couple of table-spoonfuls of
Madeira wine and vinegar; and as capsicums can be had
green during great part of the autumn, it can be also made elsewhere; but
neither chilis nor capsicums, if dried, will impart the same
flavor.   307.--MINT SAUCE, FOR ROAST LAMB. 
 Pick the leaves off the stalks; wash and dry them carefully; chop them with
a sharp knife very quickly to preserve their green color; put it into a
boat; add sufficient vinegar to make it liquid, and powdered
sugar to take off the acidity of the vinegar.   308.--MUSHROOM
SAUCE. 
 
 White. --Put the mushrooms into a
stewpan with one ounce of butter, some pepper and salt,
and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon; set them over
the fire; when they have given out their liquor, thicken it with flour
and butter,  and add sufficient
cream to whiten the sauce. This is a very excellent sauce
for fowls, rabbits, and all sorts of white fricassees. 
 
 Or: --Wash and pick a pint of young mushrooms,
and rub them with salt, to take off the tender skin; put them
into a saucepan with a little salt, some nutmeg, a blade of
mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece of butter rubbed
in flour. Boil them up, and stir them till done; then pour it round the
chickens, &c. Garnish with lemon. If you cannot get fresh
mushrooms, use pickled ones, done white, with a little
mushroom-powder with the cream. 
 
 Brown. --It may also be made brown by either putting
the 
 buttons  into a pipkin, and frying them with a little
butter until they become of a delicate brown, and then stewing them in
strong gravy of either beef or veal; or by making it of
old mushrooms chopped small, fried and stewed in the same manner, and
then seasoned according to taste. It is much used for cutlets and many sorts of
ragoûts.   309.--CELERY SAUCE. 
 Strip the outer parts of the stem, and, after carefully washing the
remaining portion, cut it into small pieces; put to it a blade of mace
without any other spice, and stew it in good veal broth until
very tender; it will take a good deal of time, more particularly the thick
hard end of the root. After this thicken it with melted butter,
and flavor it with a small quantity of white wine; or it may be
thickened with boiled cream without wine. It is usually served
with boiled turkey, but is very delicate with any kind of white
poultry or veal.   310.--ONION SAUCE. 
 The onions must be peeled, and then boiled till they are tender, then
squeeze the water from them, chop them, and add butter that has
been melted, rich and smooth, with a little good milk instead of
water; give it one boil, serve it with boiled rabbits,
partridges, scrag or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton; a
turnip boiled with the onions draws out the strength. 
 311.--ONION SAUCE, BROWN. 
 Peel and dice the onions; some put an equal quantity of
cucumber and of celery, into a quart stewpan, with an ounce of
butter; set it over a slow fire, and turn the onion about till it
is slightly browned, then gradually stir in half an ounce of flour, add
a little broth, and a little pepper and salt, boil up for
a few minutes; add a table-spoonful of claret, or port wine, and
mushroom-ketchup; you may add, if you think proper,
lemon-juice or vinegar, and rub it through a tammy or fine
sieve.   312.--OYSTER SAUCE. 
 In opening the oysters, save the liquor, and boil it with the beards,
a bit of mace, and lemon-peel; in the mean time throw the
oysters into cold water, and drain it off; strain the liquor, and
put it into a saucepan with the oysters just drained from the cold
water, with sufficient quantity of butter, mixed with as much
milk as will make enough sauce, but first rub a little
flour with it; set them over the fire, and stir all the while, and when
the butter has boiled a few times, take them off, and keep them close to
the fire, but not upon it, for if too much done, the oysters will become
hard; add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve; a little is a
great improvement.   313.--SAUCE, HAREVY. 
 Chop twelve anchovies, bone and all, very small, with one
ounce of cayenne pepper, six spoonfuls of soy, six ditto of  good walnut pickle, three heads of garlic
chopped not very small, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, two
heads of shalots chopped rather large, one gallon of vinegar; let
it stand fourteen days, stir it well twice or thrice every day, then pass it
through a jelly bag, and repeat this till it is quite clear; then bottle
it, and tie a bladder over the cork.   314.--SAUCE (Italian) FOR
SALADS. 
 Mix together three table-spoonfuls of sauce tournée, one of
mustard, some tarragon and chervil shred small, with three
table-spoonfuls of Florence oil; putting in, however, a little at a
time; when perfectly smooth, add also, by degrees, a glass of tarragon
vinegar, and a little salt. This sauce cannot be too much
mixed.   315.--TARRAGON SAUCE. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a saucepan, and
reduce it to half the quantity, then put to it six spoonfuls of good butter
sauce and mix all well together, and if not sufficiently strong put to it a
little bit of glaze, and a very little more tarragon vinegar. 
 316.--TOMATO SAUCE. 
 Fresh tomatoes; take out stalk, press them all tightly down in a
stewpan, cover them, put them on the fire, strain off the liquor that is drawn
from them, add to the tomatoes a slice of raw ham, two shalots, a few
spoonfuls of good stock; let it stew for an hour, then rub it through a
tammy sieve. Have in another stewpan a little good brown sauce, put your
tomato into it, boil all together, season with cayenne,
salt, sugar, and lemon-juice.   317.--ORANGE GRAVY
SAUCE. 
 Put half a pint of veal gravy into a saucepan, add to it half a dozen
basil leaves, a small onion, a roll of orange or
lemon-peel, and let it boil for a few minutes, and strain it off; put
to the clear gravy, the juice of a Seville orange or
lemon, half a teaspoonful of salt, the same quantity of
pepper, and a glass of red wine, serve it hot; shalot and
cayenne may be added.   318.--SAUCE À LA TARTARE. 
 Take the yolk of an egg, and drop into it very slowly a
table-spoonful of sweet oil, beating it up by degrees until perfectly
mixed; add a table-spoonful of vinegar, a little chopped parsley,
a tablespoonful of French mustard, pepper and salt; beat
up the whole together: make and keep the sauce in a cold place; put it
into a dish, and lay the boiled fowl upon it. This sauce should
be beaten till it resembles cream.   319.--MINT SAUCE. 
 Make mint vinegar by adding a very little cold vinegar to the
chopped leaves, with powdered sugar.   320.--FENNEL SAUCE. 
 Take as many branches of green fennel as you may require; pick and
wash it in the same manner as parsley; chop it very small, scald and
then lay it on a sieve to cool; put two spoonfuls of velouté, and the
same of butter sauce into a saucepan, make them quite hot, take care to
stir it well, that they may be properly mixed; rub the fennel in a
little butter, and then throw it into the sauce; mix it in
thoroughly, and season it with salt, pepper, and
nutmeg.   321.--FRESH PORK SAUCE. 
 Cut two or three good-sized onions into slices, and fry them lightly,
then add two spoonfuls of cullis, a little broth, a few mushrooms
chopped, a clove of garlic, vinegar, and spice; let it
boil half an hour, reduce to a proper consistence, skim and strain it.    322.--GLAZE.--(A French Receipt.) 
 Glaze is very seldom made on purpose, except on particular occasions. Lay on
the fire a stock-pot, with plenty of veal, and a small quantity
of beef and ham; moisten with broth; when stewed for a
proper time, skim it well. The glaze of sweated broth is not so bright.
Season the broth with carrots and onions, a large bunch of
parsley, and green onions; but no turnips or
celery, for they give a bitter taste. If you should have a grand dinner,
and wish to glaze of a nice color, put more veal into your Espagnole
(Spanish sauce.) The moment it comes to a glaze, put part of it into a
small stewpan for the purpose of glazing only. The most common glaze is made of
remnants of broth, the liquor of braize, or fricandeaux, &c., which
are to be reduced on a brisk fire. If you keep your reduction too long, it will
become black and bitter. Always warm your glaze in the hot water bath,
that it may not get too brown when you have a grand dinner. 
 323.--SAUCE ROBERT.--(French Receipt.) 
 Cut some onions into small dice, fry them of a fine brown, dust them
with flour, and moisten them with some Spanish sauce. Skim it,
that the sauce may look bright; put in a little pepper and
salt, and just before you send up mix a spoonful of mustard. 
 324.--SAUCE ROBERT. 
 Cut a few onions into dice, which put into a frying-pan with a bit of
butter, and fry them lightly; when nicely browned, add a dessert
spoonful of flour, a ladleful of stock, the same of
vinegar, some salt, and pepper; reduce it to a proper
thickness, and when ready for table stir in two dessert-spoonfuls of
mustard.   325.--PURÉE OF ONION, OR SOUBISE
SAUCE. 
 Take a dozen white onions. After having peeled and washed them, cut
them into halves, take off the tops and bottoms, mince them as fine as
possible, and blanch them to make them taste sweeter, and take off the green
color. Then let them melt on a small stove, with a little butter. When
they are thoroughly done, and no kind of moisture is left, mix four spoonfuls
of béchamel. Season them well, rub the purée through a tammy, and
keep the sauce hot, but without boiling. You must also put a small lump
of sugar with the sauce if necessary. When you have the oven hot,
put the onions hermetically closed in a small stewpan, and let them
simmer for one hour, with a small bit of ham. This method gives a better
flavor.   326.--BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
 Take about half a quarter of a pound of butter, about three pounds of
veal cut into small slices, a quarter of a pound of ham, some
trimmings of mushrooms, two small white onions, a bunch of
parsley and green onions; put the whole into a stewpan, and lay
it on the fire till the meat be made firm. Then put three spoonfuls of
flour; moisten with some boiling-hot thin cream and a ladle of
consommé. Keep this sauce rather thin, so that whilst you reduce
it the ingredients may have time to be stewed thoroughly. Season it with a
little salt, and strain it through a tammy. This sauce should
retain no taste of flour, and be very palatable.   327.--DUTCH
SAUCE.--(French Receipt.) 
 Put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of flour, four spoonfuls of elder
vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the yolks of five
eggs, and a little salt. Put it on the fire and keep continually
stirring it. When it has acquired thickness 
enough, work it well, that you may refine it. If it should not be curdled, you
have no occasion to strain it through a tammy; season well and serve it up.
Some people do not like elder vinegar; in that case use tarragon
or plain vinegar. But odorous vinegar is far preferable. 
 328.--SAUCE BLANCHE--(Or French Melted Butter.) 
 Put into a stewpan, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a spoonful
of flour, a little salt, half a gill or glass of water,
half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg. Put
it on the fire: let it thicken, but do not allow it to boil, for fear it should
taste of the flour. Serve hot.   329.--WHITE
ROUX*--(WHITE THICKENING.)--(A French Receipt.) 
 Put a good lump of butter into a stewpan, let it melt over a slow
fire, and, when melted, drain the butter and take out the
buttermilk; then put in the butter two or three spoonfuls of good
flour, enough to make a thin paste: keep it on the fire for a
quarter of an hour, and take care not to let it color; pour it into an earthen
pan to use when wanted.   330.--BROWN THICKENING. (A French Receipt.) 
 Put into a stewpan a piece of butter proportionate to the quantity of
thickening intended to be prepared. Melt it gently; take out the
buttermilk, then put flour enough to make a paste. Fry it
on a slow fire, and then put it again over very red ashes, till it be of
a nice color. Observe, this is only to be obtained by slow degrees. When of a
light brown pour it into an earthen pan and keep it for use. It will keep a
long time. 
 *This is an indispensable article in cookery, and serves to thicken sauces;
the brown is for sauces of the same color; and the color must be obtained by
slow degrees, otherwise the flour will burn and give a bitter taste, and
the sauces become spotted with black.   331.--LEMON SAUCE,
WHITE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. 
 Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into a pint of sweet,
rich cream, with a sprig of lemon, thyme, and ten white
peppercorns. Simmer it gently till it tastes well of the lemon, then
strain it and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed in a
dessert-spoonful of flour; boil it up; then pour the juice of the
lemon strained into it, stirring well; dish the fowls, and then
mix a little white gravy, quite hot, with the cream, but do not
boil them together; add salt according to taste.   332.--LEMON
SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS. 
 Cut small slices of lemon into very small dice, and put them into melted
butter, give it one boil, and pour it over boiled fowls. 
 333.--BREAD SAUCE. 
 Cut in slices the crumb of a French roll, to which add a few
peppercorns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boiling
milk enough to cover it; let it simmer gently by the side of the fire
till the bread soaks up the milk, add a little thick
cream, take out the onion, and rub the whole through a sieve;
make it very hot, and serve with game or fowls. 
 334.--BÉCHAMEL SAUCE. 
 Take some veal and ham, cut them into dices; some
carrots, cloves, onions, laurel leaves, shalots,
parsley, and scallions, all chopped fine; pepper, grated
nutmeg, a little salt and butter, a little velouté
and consommé, reduce it to half, and then put in some cream; mix
it well with your sauce, boil it all together over  a quick fire, shaking it constantly for an hour; if thick
enough, strain it through a sieve.   335.--LIVER SAUCE. 
 Take the livers of poultry or game, chop them very small with
parsley, scallions, tarragon leaves, and shalots; soak them in a
little butter over the fire, and then pound them; add cullis
stock, pepper and salt. Give the whole a boil with two
glasses of red wine, coriander, cinnamon, and
sugar; reduce and strain it, thicken with a bit of butter rolled
in flour; serve it in a sauce-boat.   336.--LIVER SAUCE
FOR BOILED CHICKENS. 
 Boil the livers till you can bruise them with the back of a spoon;
mix them in a little of the liquor they were boiled in, melt some butter
very smooth and put to them; add a little grated lemon-peel, and boil
up altogether.   337.--TRUFFLE SAUCE. 
 Take a pound of truffles; brush and wash them carefully; put them in
a stewpan with some good gravy, two wine-glasses of white
wine, a small onion, a faggot of parsley and thyme,
and an ounce of bacon fat. Let them stew gently until quite tender; take
them out, strain and skim the gravy, thicken it with roux or a lump of
flour and butter; peel the truffles, cut them in slices as
thick as a penny-piece, warm them in the sauce, and serve. 
 338.--CHESTNUT SAUCE. 
 Scald a score of chestnuts in hot water for ten minutes;
skin them; let them stew gently for about half an hour in some good
gravy seasoned with a glass of white wine, a little white
pepper, salt, and mace or nutmeg; and when quite soft,
serve them in the dish. 
 
 Or: --Pulp them through a colander to thicken the
gravy, making it either 
 brown  or 
 white,  by using in the former 
 beef-gravy,  and in the latter 
 veal-broth,  with pounded almonds, and
without pepper. 
 Either of these is equally fit for sauce to guinea-bird or
turkey, as well as for stuffing the body of the bird. 
 339.--SAUCES FOR WHITE POULTRY. BOILED. 
 
 Liver-sauce. --Take the livers of as
many fowls as may be required for the intended quantity of sauce,
or, that of a rabbit being much larger, take one liver, boil it
with some sprigs of thyme and parsley; dissolve in the
water, after taking it out, two anchovies, boned; boil two
eggs hard, leave out one white, and shred the rest with the
liver, herbs, and anchovies; pound them together in a
mortar, adding a saltspoonful of grated lemon-peel and a little
pepper and salt. Put it into the saucepan, squeeze upon it the
juice of half a lemon, thicken the liquor with butter and
a little flour, add to it the pounded ingredients, and stir it until
finished. 
 
 Or: --If 
 gravy  be used instead of water, and 
 butter  be omitted, the above may be properly
employed as an excellent sauce for 
 roasted  rabbit, or for full-grown
poultry.   340.--WHITE SAUCE. 
 Boil a large blade of mace, a few cloves and
peppercorns, in half a pint of soft water, until the flavor be
obtained; strain it off, put it into a saucepan with four anchovies
chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and
half a pint of cream: boil and stir it well two minutes. Put some in a tureen,
and the remainder in the dish.   341.--FOR CHICKENS. 
 Take the legs and necks, with a small  bit of the scrag of veal or mutton; put them
into a saucepan with two blades of mace, a few white peppercorns,
an anchovy, a head of celery sliced, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and a small bit of lemon-peel; boil these in a quart of
water to half a pint; strain, and thicken it with a quarter of a pound
of butter and some flour; boil it five minutes, then put in two
spoonfuls of mushrooms, and, having beaten up the yolks of two
eggs with a teacupful of cream, put it into the sauce, and

keep shaking it one way over the fire till it is nearly boiling; then put it
into a sauce-tureen.   342.--VEGETABLE MARROW SAUCE. 
 Few sauces are more delicate as an accompaniment for young chickens,
whether roast or boiled, than 
 vegetable marrow  when deprived of its
seeds, if stewed to a pulp and passed through a fine sieve, so as
to form it into a purée, which may be then thinned either with
fowl-broth seasoned with mace, or with cream and
nutmeg.   343.--SAUCES FOR ROAST FOWLS. 
 Stew any moderate quantity of ham, veal, and mushrooms,
with sweet herbs, a shalot, a little allspice, and a piece of
butter, until all become brown; then let the whole simmer gently for a
long time in either weak broth or water, until they form a strong
gravy; strain it and season it with any additional flavor that may be
given by some of the made sauces. Serve hot in a sauce-tureen. 
 
 Or: --Put into a small stewpan two slices of
ham, a clove of garlic, a laurel-leaf, and sliced onion:
add a little good gravy, a sprig of knotted marjoram, and a
spoonful of tarragon vinegar; simmer slowly an hour, strain off, and put
into the dish or a boat. 
 
 Or: --Boil some veal-gravy, pepper,
salt, the juice of a Seville orange and a lemon, and
one-quarter as much of port wine as of gravy; and pour it into
the dish or a boat. 
 
 Or: --If wanted in a hurry cut a few slices of
calf's liver, or any kind of brown meat; fry them with a
little lean bacon and an onion, and, when browned, pour upon them
boiling water to what strength you please, and strain it. 
 344.--WHITE SAUCE. 
 It is seldom necessary to buy meat for this favorite sauce, as
the proportion of that flavor is but small. The water that has boiled
fowls, veal, or rabbit, or a little broth that may
be in the house, or the feet and necks of chickens, or raw or
dressed veal, will suffice. Stew any of these with a little
water, a bit of lemon-peel, some sliced onion, a few
white peppercorns, a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and a
bunch of sweet herbs, until the flavor be good; then strain it, add a
little good cream, a piece of butter, and a 
 little  flour: salt to your taste. A
squeeze of lemon may be added after the sauce is taken off the fire,
shaking it well. Yolk of egg is often used in fricassee; but if you have
any cream it is better, as the former is apt to curdle. 
 
 Or: --Boil a stick of celery and a bunch of
parsley in a pint of milk, adding white pepper and a
little salt; then put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, let
it melt, add to it an onion sliced thin, dredge in flour until it
is a paste, but do not allow it to become brown. Strain the milk,
and add it by degrees to the butter and flour, stirring it very
well; then boil the whole together, stirring all the time, and boiling it until
it is quite thick and smooth; pass it through a fine sieve or tammy. If wanted
to be very rich, let it cool a little, and then add an egg previously
beaten, and mix very gradually; warm it over the fire, stirring it well, but do
not let it boil, or it will curdle.  
 
 Or: --Mix a teaspoonful of flour with
one-quarter pound of butter, a little salt, and ground white
pepper; let them be well blended together with a wooden spoon, then add a
spoonful of vinegar, and one or two of water; mix the whole
together, stirring it one way over the fire.   345.--CULLIS. 
 Lay over the bottom of a stewpan as much lean veal as will cover it
an inch thick: cover the veal with thin slices of undressed gammon, two
or three onions, two or three bay-leaves, some sweet herbs, two
blades of mace, and a few cloves. Cover the stewpan, and set it
over a slow fire; but when the juices come out, let the fire be a little
quicker. When the meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with good
beef broth, boil and skim it, then simmer an hour; add a little
water, mixed with as much flour as will make it properly thick;
boil it half an hour, and strain it. This will keep a week.   346.--ROUX. 
 
 White. --Put two ounces of butter into
a stewpan over a slow fire, allow it to melt, then drain off the
buttermilk: make it into a paste by dredging flour over
it, and keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, taking care that it does
not lose its color. 
 
 Brown  is made in the same manner, only allowed to
fry of a dark color. French cooks use no other kind of browning. 
 347.--LIAISON. 
 
 To thicken or enrich White or Fish
Soups,  use the following:--Pour the soup, boiling hot, on the beaten
yolks of two or three fresh eggs, from which the small tough
substance found in it, and called "the tread," should be removed, nor should
the soup be suffered to boil after the eggs are added, as it is then apt
to curdle. 
 
 Or: --Break the yolks of an egg with three
spoonfuls of cream, beat them up in the tureen and pour the boiling soup
upon it. This may be made in the same proportion, and kept in a basin for other
dishes.   348.--SAUCE FOR FRICANDEAU, OR ROAST VEAL. 
 Boil an unwashed anchovy cut small, with a cup of gravy, a
glass of port wine, a shalot minced, and the juice of half a
small lemon; strain, and mix in the dish with the gravy of the
meat. Or use sorrel sauce.   349.--SAUCE À LA
MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL. 
 Put eight table-spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan with four of
milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in three ounces of maître
d'hôtel butter; stir it quickly over the fire till the
butter is melted, but do not let it boil. This sauce should be
made at the time of serving.   350.--SAUCES FOR GEESE. 
 
 For a Green Goose. --Take half a pint of
sorrel-juice, two glasses of white wine, a nutmeg quartered, a
cupful of fried crumbs, and two lumps of sugar; let all boil together,
then beat it smooth, adding a piece of fresh butter, and serve it very
hot in a tureen, or in the dish with the goose. It should not be made
too thick with the bread-crumbs; and if much acid should not be
approved, the wine must be equal in quantity to the sorrel-juice. 
 351.--GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. 
 Wash some sorrel, put it into a cloth and press out the juice;
melt a piece of butter with flour, using this juice
instead of water; let it be very thick. Scald green gooseberries
until very tender, and  add them to the
sauce. This is a fine acid sauce if not spoiled with
sugar. If not sweetened add a little cayenne pepper. 
 352.--APPLE SAUCE. 
 Pare, core, and slice some apples; and put them in a stone jar, into
a saucepan of water, or on a hot hearth. If on a hearth, let a spoonful
or two of water be put in to hinder them from burning. When they are
done bruise them to a mash, and put to them a piece of butter the size
of a nutmeg, and a little brown sugar if required; but it
destroys the slight acid flavor of the apples, and its corrective to
goose and pork.   353.--SAVORY APPLE SAUCE. 
 Pulp the apples, and, if wanted of a good color, add to them a
little juice of beet-root or cochineal: season with cayenne
pepper, and a glass of vinegar or lemon-pickle, taking care
not to make it too acid. This will prove a substitute for tomato or
sorrel sauce, when neither can be obtained; if for the latter, a little
spinach-juice will give it a color.   354.--SAUCE FOR
DUCKLINGS. 
 Take young green onions or chives; chop them very small then
put them into some thick melted butter, with pepper, salt,
and a spoonful of lemon-pickle; stir it well together, and, when very
hot, put it into the dish with the ducks upon it. Should the flavor of
the onions be thought too strong, they may be scalded previously. 
 
 Or: --Mix one-quarter pint of sorrel-juice, a
glass of white wine, some scalded gooseberries, some white
sugar, and a bit of butter. Boil them up and serve in a boat. 
 355.--SAUCE FOR SUCKING-PIG. 
 Take the inside of a French roll and boil it to a pulp, along
with an onion and a little salt; chop the brains and put
them into a teacupful of the gravy that runs from the pig; then
take as much butter as will be sufficient for the sauce, and put
into it a good squeeze of lemon, with half a glass of white
wine. 
 Some cooks make a 
 stuffing  for the pig in nearly the
same manner, only making it with less butter and more bread,
besides sometimes seasoning it with sage.   356.--CURRANT
SAUCE. 
 Clean an ounce of currants, and boil them in one-half pint of
water for a few minutes, pour the whole over a teacupful of
bread-crumbs; let it soak and then add a piece of butter rolled
in flour, four or six cloves, and a glass of port wine;
beat it a little, and stir it over the fire until it is quite smooth. 
 357.--SAUCES FOR WILD-FOWL. (English.) 
 A teaspoonful of made mustard, the same of essence of
anchovies and red pepper; a tablespoonful of ketchup, and a
glass of claret. This receipt is from the Palace, and comes highly
recommended. 
 
 Or: --Simmer a teacupful of port wine, the
same quantity of good meat gravy, a little shalot, a little
pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of mace,
for ten minutes: put in a bit of butter and flour, give it all
one boil, and pour it through the birds. In general they are not stuffed, but
may be done so if liked. 
 
 Or: --Mince some shalots very fine, put them into a
small saucepan with some peppercorns, two tablespoonfuls of strong,
clear gravy, and the same quantity of vinegar; when sufficiently
boiled add a little salt, and strain it through a sieve. It may be
served either hot or cold.   358.--WHITE SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 Cut and chop a knuckle of veal weighing 
about four pounds, into large dice; also half a pound of lean bacon;
butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
butter; add two onions, a small carrot, a turnip,
three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf, a
sprig of thyme, and six of parsley; add a gill of water;
place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with whitish glaze; then fill up with three quarts of
water; add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer at the
corner of the fire an hour and a half, keeping it well skimmed; pass it
through a hair sieve into a basin. In another stewpan put a quarter of a pound
of butter, with which mix six ounces of flour, stirring over the
fire about three minutes; take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add
the stock all at once, continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of
an hour; add half a pint of boiling milk; stir a few minutes longer, add
a few chopped mushrooms; if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a
basin, until required for use, stirring it round occasionally until cold. The
above being a simplified white sauce, will be referred to very often in
receipts.     359.--BROWN SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan; rub it over the bottom; peel
two or three large onions; cut them in thick slices; lay them on the
bottom; cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal, *  all meat, or three pounds if with bone; a quarter of a pound of
lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a
table-spoonful of salt, two bay-leaves, a gill of water; set it
on a brisk fire; let it remain ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue the
fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, and stir now and then until it has a nice brown color; fill your pan with three quarts of water; when boiling, set it on the
corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan; when boiling,
skim fat and all; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass
it through a sieve into a basin.   To make the thickening or Roux for it,  proceed as follows:--ROUX. Put two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add three ounces of flour, stir it with a wooden spoon
until getting a thin deep yellow color; this in France is called Roux, being
very useful in cookery, and will be often referred to in these receipts. This
process will take ten minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to
cool; then add at once three pints and a quarter of the above stock;
very quickly set it on the fire to boil; remove it to the corner to simmer,
and skim. It ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light
chestnut color.   *Half veal and beef can be used; or if no veal, all
beef.    360.--DEMI-GLAZE--THIN BROWN SAUCE FOR MADE
DISHES. 
 When I have a small dinner-party, I always, as I told you before, make small
quantities of white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice
way of clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes it a
beautiful transparent brown color; but although I have made it quite a study
that each 
 entrée,  or made dish for daily use, should
make its own sauce, yet I must impress upon you that this sauce
is the real key to cooking a good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of
brown sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan; add to it half a pint of
broth or consommé, put it on the stove, stir with wooden spoon,
let it boil as fast as possible, take the scum off which will rise to the
surface; reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon, pass it through a
sieve or tammy into a basin; stir now and then until cold, to prevent a
skin forming on the the top;  put it by
until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding half a gill
of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil; the addition of a
tablespoonful of tomato sauce gives it a beautiful color; use where
indicated.   361.--THIN BROWN SAUCE of MUSHROOMS. 
 Put twelve table-spoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to
boil, then have six or eight small mushrooms, well cleaned and washed,
chop them fine, and place in sauce, and boil for five minutes; taste if
it is to your liking; the addition of a little sugar is an improvement;
a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced. The sauce is good
for cutlets, broiled fowl, and game, &c. 
 362.--ESCHALOT SAUCE. 
 Chop fine about a good table-spoonful of eschalot, place it in the
corner of a napkin, and pour water over; press until dry, and put in
a small stewpan with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a
little mace; boil two minutes, add ten table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze,
boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and serve.   363.--PIQUANT
OR SHARP SAUCE. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of chopped onions, or eschalots,
cleaned as above, into a stewpan; put also four table-spoonfuls of
vinegar, and a bay-leaf, and boil; then add ten table-spoonfuls of
brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of green
gherkins; boil five minutes; skim, add a little sugar, taste if well
seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.   364.--TARRAGON SAUCE.
(Soyer's.) 
 Put eight table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth, into a
stewpan; boil for a few minutes; add a table-spoonful of vinegar; have
ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon; put in to summer two
minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but especially spring
chickens.   365.--BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 Peel a small fresh cucumber; cut it in neat pieces; put in a
stewpan with a little suagr; add half an ounce of butter; set it on a
slow fire; stir it now and then; add tweleve table-spoonfuls of of brown
sauce, and eight of broth; let it simmer till tender; skim the
butter off; remove the cucumber into another stewpan; pass the
sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, pour over, and serve. 
 367.--MINCE HERB SAUCE. 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, and a
table-spoonful of oil; place it on the fire; stir a few minutes, add ten
table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth or water; boil,
skim; if too thick, and the scum should not rise, add half a gill of
broth or water; boil, and reduce to a proper thickeness, and add
a table-spoonful of chopped parsley; if at hand, one of
mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne; the juice of
a quarter of a lemon; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in
this.   368.--RAVIGOTE SAUCE. 
 Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, with a little
carrot, a little  thyme, bay-leaf,
one clove, a little mace, a little scraped horseradish, a
little butter; fry a few minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of
vinegar, ten table-spoonfuls of brown sauce, four of
broth; when boiling, skim, add a table-spoonful of currant jelly;
when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat
or poultry; with hare or venison 
 it is excellent.    369.--BROWN MUSHROOM
SAUCE. 
 Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices; place them in a
stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the
juice of a quarter of a lemon; set it on a slow fire for a few
minutes, then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are tender, and
serve. A little mushroom ketchup may be introduced.   370.--ORANGE
SAUCE FOR GAME. 
 Peel half an orange, removing all the pith; cut it into slices, and
then in fillets; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes;
drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away; place in the stewpan two
spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or ten of broth; and, when boiling, add the
orange, a little sugar; simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The
juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with
ducklings and water fowl: those that like may add cayenne and
mustard.   371.--GARLIC SAUCE. 
 Though many dislike the flavor of this root, yet those that like it ought
not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, a
little tomato sauce, if handy; boil it a few minutes, scrape half a
clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar, and serve. 
 372.--MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB. 
 Take three table-spoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, three
table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin, with half a pint
of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one salt-spoonful of
salt, and serve.   373.--LIAISON OF EGGS. 
 Break the yolks of two eggs in a basin, with which mix six spoonfuls
of milk, or eight of cream; pass it through a fine sieve, and use
when directed.   374.--ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE. 
 Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three of broth;
when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter; stir continually till
melted; serve where directed.   375.--SOYER'S SAUCE. 
 Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan; when hot, add four spoonfuls
of Soyer's Brown Sauce; let boil, and serve with either chop,
steak, cutlet, poultry, or game.   376.--PAPILLOTTE
SAUCE. 
 Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four
table-spoonfuls of chopped onions; stir over the fire for a few minutes,
then add ten table-spoonfuls of brown sauce and boil; then add a
table-spoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a
little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a quarter of a
clove of scraped garlic; reduce till rather thickish; put on dish
till cold, and use it for any thing you may put up 
 "en Papillotte."    377.--TOMATO SAUCE.
(Soyer's.) 
 If fresh, put six in a stewpan; having removed the stalk, and squeezed them
in the hand to remove pips, &c., add half an onion, sliced, a sprig
of thyme, a bay-leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce of
ham or bacon, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar,
same of salt, a quarter one of pepper, set on fire to stew
gently;  when all tender, add a table-spoonful of
flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes; add
a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through sieve or
tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to the back of the
spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. If preserved
tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting the vegetables,
omitting the vinegar, and adding the tomato instead of the
brown sauce, with a table-spoonful of flour and broth to
bring it to a proper thickness; pass it through a sieve, and serve as
above.   378.--CURRY SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
 Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two peeled
apples, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean
ham, a blade of mace, four pepper-corns, two bay-leaves, two
sprigs of thyme; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions
become brown and tender, then add two table-spoonfuls of the best curry
powder, one of vinegar, two of flour, a teaspoonful of
salt, one of sugar; moisten it with a quart of broth or
milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil
till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon;
pass all through a fine sieve or tammy; give it another boil for a few minutes,
put it in a basin, and use when required. Any kind of meat, poultry, and
fish, or parts of game, are excellent warmed in this
sauce, and served with well boiled and dry rice. I have kept this
sauce in a cool place in the winter for a month, boiling it now and
then. The quantity of powder may be omitted, and a spoonful of curry
paste used, or some mangoes.   379.--A VERY GOOD AND USEFUL WHITE
SAUCE--(quite new.) 
 Put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a fire;
stir continually until reduced to one-third; put two yolks of eggs in a
basin, stir them well up, add your sauce gradually, keep stirring, put
back in stewpan, set it to boil for a few minutes longer, then add one pint of
boiling milk, which will bring it to its proper thickness; that is, when
it adheres transparently to the back of a spoon; pass through a tammy into a
basin, stir now and then till cold. If not immediately required, and I have any
stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also try this
way, which is very convenient; when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I
put it in a large gallipot and when cold, cover with pieces of paper; it
will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above a week in summer:
when I want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful or two and warm it on
the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to bring it to a
proper thickness, and use when required. This sauce is very smooth, and
never turns greasy; it lies beautifully on fowl, or any white
made dish; the addition of a drop of cream gives it a very fine
white appearance.   380.--ONION PURÉE SAUCE. 
 Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a stewpan, with a quarter
of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar,
a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a
pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add
one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a
proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter;
pass through a tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops,
boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for
roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion sauce. 
 381.--PURÉE OF CAULIFLOWER SAUCE. 
 Boil a cauliflower well in three pints 
of water, in which you have previously put one ounce of butter,
one tablespoonful of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and
slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, half
a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little
bay-leaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir round, add a
tablespoonful of flour, moisten as above for onions, pass, and
finish the same way. It may be made of Jerusalem artichoke or
turnip.   382.--BROWN SHARP SAUCE, OR POIVRADE.--(French
Receipt.) 
 Put a small bit of butter, a small carrot cut into dice, a few
shalots cut in the same way, some parsley roots, six green
onions, some parsley, a few slices of ham, a clove, a
little thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a few grains of peppercorn
and all-spice, with a little mace, in a small stewpan. Let the
stewpan be put on a slow fire, till it begins to be of a fine brown all round;
then keep stirring with a wooden spoon; pour into the stewpan four spoonfuls of
white vinegar and a small bit of sugar. Let this reduce nearly to
a glaze; then moisten with some Spanish sauce and a little
consommé, that you may be enabled to take the fat off from the
sauce; season with cayenne and a little salt. Taste
whether it be salt enough, but observe that it should not be too acid;
skim off the fat, and strain the sauce through a tammy, and serve
up. When this sauce is well made, not too thick, and of good color, it
is good with the following entrées:--Cotelettes Maintenon, broiled
chicken, broiled pigeon, fried chicken, marinades of all
sorts, such as calf's feet, lamb's ears, trotters,
calf's head, and generally with every thing requiring tart
sauces. You may add to it a little preserved tomatoes, to give a good
color and sharp taste.   383.--WHITE CUCUMBER PURÉE. 
 Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the same
vegetables, &c. as for the cauliflower; when tender, add a
table-spoonful of flour, four gills of milk or broth,
boil, finishing as the cauliflower.   384.--SORREL SAUCE, OR
PURÉE. 
 Wash well six handfuls of sorrel, put it nearly dry into a
middle-sized stewpan with a little butter; let it melt, add a
table-spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of
pepper; moisten to a thick purée, with milk, or
broth, or cream; pass it through a sieve, put it back in a
stewpan, warm again, add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter,
and stir well, and serve where directed.   385.--SPINAGE PURÉE. 
 Endive purée is often used in France, and called chicorée.
This purée may be made like the cauliflower, or only plain
boiled, plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of butter, a
gill of white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little
salt, pepper, and sugar.     Spice Box.   An illustration of a wooden box with a lid inside the lid is vent.  The box has six compartmments.  
 386.--INDIA-PICKLE SAUCE.
Take some gravy, thicken with flour and butter; cut in
small dice some India-pickle, add a little of the vinegar, let it
boil up, throw in the dice, and serve hot. This is for salmon
cutlets;  it is also good for broiled
mackerel or for grilled chicken.   387.--SAUCE PIQUANTE. 
 Put into a stewpan the muscles of a knuckle of veal, some slices of
ham or bacon, a cupful of gravy, a spoonful or two of
strong vinegar, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a little
thyme, one clove, and a little salt; skim it, and, when it
has stewed a quarter of an hour, pass it through a sieve: then add
sorrel, parsley, and mushrooms, all chopped fine, and
whole capers; heat it again, and serve it in the dish. 
 
 Or: --Put one or two ounces of butter, with
two shred onions, a carrot, a parsnip, a little
thyme, laurel, basil, two cloves, two shalots, a clove
of garlic, and some parsley, into a stewpan; turn the whole over the
fire till it becomes brown, then shake in some flour, and moisten it
with some broth and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it boil over a
slow fire; skim and strain it; then add pepper and salt; and
serve with any dish of which you would wish to have the flavor heightened. 
 388.--À L'ESPAGNOLE--(or Spanish Sauce.) 
 Besides a few slices of ham and veal, put into a stewpan any
remains which you may have of poultry and game, and let them boil for
one hour in water more than sufficient to cover them; after which skim
off the fat from the gravy, add fried onions, sweet
herbs, a bay-leaf, spice, mace, and mushrooms, with
minced carrots, celery, shalots, and a small clove of
garlic, and leave the whole to stew until quite mashed: it will take full
two hours. Then strain it, and if the gravy be not strong enough add
sufficient coulis or glaze to make it so. If it wants flavor, add soy, and if
mushrooms have not been one of the ingredients, put in ketchup: if not
thick enough a little arrowroot, or common flour, with a piece of
butter, will have the effect; but if the gravy be truly rich, it
will not require the addition. 
 Such is the foundation of the sauce; but in most cases white
wine is added, for the purpose of stewing game: it is needless to
say that Madeira and sherry are best, but Cape or ginger
wine will be found good substitutes.   389.--SAUCE, À LA
PROVENÇALE. 
 Put into a casserole two spoonfuls of sweet oil, a shalot, a clove
of garlic, and some mushrooms, all minced, and placed upon the fire
in any sort of good strong broth, seasoned with pepper and
salt, together with pot-herbs; leave it there for half an hour;
then skim it so far as to remove much of the appearance of the oil;
strain it, and add some white wine to suit the taste. 
 390.--SAUCE MAIGRE. 
 Fry a large quantity of onions and put them along with the above into
the casserole, with white wine, until well browned; then strain it; add
a table-spoonful of salad-oil with a little flour, and mix it
gently, but continually, for a few minutes, until completely mingled. 
 391.--A L'HOLLANDAISE. 
 For meat, fowl, or fish. Put six spoonfuls of
water and two of tarragon vinegar, with one ounce of
butter, into a stewpan; warm and thicken it with the yolks of two
eggs. Make it quite hot, but do not boil it; stir it all the time; squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon, and strain it through a sieve.
Season with salt and cayenne. It should be quite thick. 
 392.--SPINACH SAUCE. 
 Pick off the stalks of the spinach; wash and drain it; then, without
water, stew till it will beat to a mash. Put in  a good piece of butter and some milk; simmer,
and stir over a slow fire till the sauce be of the consistence of thick
melted butter. Add a little pepper and salt while
dressing.   393.--PURÉE OF CUCUMBERS. 
 Slice thin some middling-sized cucumbers, drain the liquor from them,
and put them, with four onions, into a stewpan, with a piece of
butter; when sufficiently stewed to pulp through a colander, add
a large teacupful of cream, a little flour and pepper.
Boil twenty minutes and, when going to serve, put in salt. 
 394.--SAUCE À LA SAINTE MENEHOULD. 
 Put some butter into a stewpan, shake over it a little flour;
add a cupful of cream, parsley, young onions, one-half a
bay-leaf, and a shalot. Put it on the fire, keeping it stirred. Then pass it
through a sieve: put it on the fire again with some chopped parsley, a
little pepper, and minced mushrooms. Serve it over boiled
fowls.   395.--LA MAGNONNAISE. 
 Perhaps the most esteemed mode of making sauce for any sort of
cold meats or fish is that known in France by this title. 
 Put into a round-bottomed basin the yolk of an egg and a pinch of
salt; stir in very quickly, drop by drop, two table-spoonfuls of
sweet oil, working the spoon very rapidly round, to work in the
oil; when it is thick add a few drops of tarragon vinegar, then
more oil, until there is sufficient sauce; thin it with a little
more vinegar. It should be quite thick, and rather acid. 
 396.--CARACHI. 
 Take one head of garlic and cut each clove into two pieces;
two teaspoonfuls of cayenne pepper, three tablespoonfuls of soy, three
of mushroom ketchup, three of walnut pickle, six anchovies
dissolved, two or three spoonfuls of mangoe or India pickle liquor, and
a pint of the best vinegar, with sufficient cochineal to color. 
 Both the above are thus 
 sauces maigres,  but when not intended for fast-days,
may be much improved by being made into a 
 purée  with an admixture of melted
calf's-foot jelly.   397.--SAUCE ROYALE 
 Is made by cutting a slice of white bread, and stewing it in white
broth until it is quite thick; then take it off the fire; pound in a mortar
the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and half a dozen almonds 
reduced to paste, with the breast of a cold roast fowl;
mix this with the eggs and bread, and pound them all together
with a little pepper and salt; add a sufficient quantity of
cream to make it of a proper consistence, and simmer the whole over the
fire, stirring it all the time without letting it boil.   398.--SAUCE
À LA REINE 
 Is nearly the same. Bruise the breast of a chicken to a paste,
and moisten it with a consommé of veal or fowl broth; let
it stew gently over a slow fire, and then pass it through the tamis and mix
with it some béchamel sauce. Then have ready the yolks of two
eggs beaten up with a large spoonful of thick cream, and stir the
mixture into the sauce a minute or two before serving it up. 
 Both the above are served at the most fashionable tables, and may be used
with turkey-poults and guinea-birds.   399.--THE ORIGINAL OUDE
SAUCE 
 Is made with two ounces of butter put into a stewpan; when melted add
six onions shred; as soon as they begin  to
take color, put in one and a half dozen of chilis chopped fine; stir it
well together for four minutes, then put in a small quantity of dried salt
fish, not exceeding two square inches, chopped very fine; keep stirring,
and, as the butter dries, add a large cupful of the pulp of fresh
tomatoes, a teaspoonful of salt, the juice of a lemon, and
a little water; mix the whole very well together, and let it be of the
consistence of a paste, though not too dry. It is eaten with cold
meat, but will not keep.   400.--CHETNEY AND QUIHI SAUCE. 
 Take eight ounces of sharp apples pared and cored, eight ounces of
tomatoes, eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of brown
sugar, eight ounces of raisins, four ounces of red chilis,
four ounces of ginger powdered, two ounces of garlic, and two
ounces of shalots. Pound all these ingredients separately in a mortar, using
cayenne pepper if chilis are not to be had. Mix the whole
together, and add three quarts of vinegar and one quart of
lemon-juice. Place the jar containing this composition on a stove, or
by the side of a fire in a heat not less than one hundred and thirty degrees
Fahrenheit, and stir it twice a-day for a month; then strain, but do not
squeeze it dry. Bottle the liquor, which is an excellent sauce for any
kind of fish or meat, hot or cold. A teaspoonful will impart a
fine flavor to any ragoût, or be sufficient for a pint of broth.
The residue, which is the chetney, should be put into pots or jars. It may also
be used in sauces and gravies, or eaten like mustard with cold
meat, or spread upon grills, being an excellent ingredient for devils, wet
or dry.   401.--VEAL GRAVY, OR BLOND OF VEAL. (Ude.) 
 Put a few slices of Westmoreland ham (the lean only) into a pretty
thick stewpan and lay over them some fleshy pieces of veal. The
rump may be used. Pour into the stewpan a sufficient quantity of
stock-broth to cover about half the thickness of the meat. Let it
sweat on a stove over a brisk fire. Watch the stewpan and the contents for fear
of burning. When the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the
meat, that all the gravy may run out; then stew the glaze more
gently. When the whole is absolutely glazed, of a good color, let it stew till
brown, but take care it does not burn, to prevent which, put it on red-hot
ashes. Keep stirring the stewpan over the fire, that the glaze may be
all of the same color, and turn the meat upside down, that it may not
stick. When the glaze is of a dark-red color, moisten with some hot
broth, and let the glaze detach before the stewpan is put on the fire,
for it might still burn. Season with mushrooms and a bunch of
parsley and green onions. When the gravy has boiled for
two hours, it will be done. Take off the fat, and strain it through a
silken sieve.   402.--THE CULLIS--(a Brown Jelly.) 
 Make the cullis in the same manner as veal gravy, with slices of
ham and slices of veal, &c. When the glaze is of a nice
color, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. Season it with a bunch of
parsley and green onions, mushrooms, &c. Then mix some
brown thickening with the veal gravy, but do not make it too thick, as
the fat could not be got out of the sauce; and a sauce
with fat has neither a pleasing appearance nor a good flavor. Let it
boil for an hour on the corner of the stove; skim off the fat, and
strain it through a tammy, &c.   403.--SAUCE TOURNÉE. *  
 Take some white thickening, dilute it 
 *Sauce tournée is the sauce that the modern cooks call
velouté; but velouté, properly so called, will be found
hereafter.    with some consommé or
broth of fowl; neither too thin nor too thick. A sauce when too
thick will never admit of the fat being removed. Let it boil on the
corner of the stove. Throw in a few mushrooms, with a bunch of
parsley and green onions. Skim it well, and when there is no
grease left, strain it through a tammy, to use when wanted. 
 404.--SAUCE À L'ALLEMANDE.--(German Sauce.) 
 This is the same as the last sauce, with the addition of a
thickening *  of eggs well seasoned. This sauce is always used for
the following sauces or ragouts, viz., blanquettes, or white fricassees,
of all descriptions, of veal, of fowl, of game, or palates, ragout,
loin of veal, with béchamel, &c., &c.   405.--THE
VELOUTÉ. 
 Take about the same quantity of stock-broth, and sauce
tournée, and boil them down over a large fire. When this sauce is
very thick, have some thick cream boiling and reduced, which pour into
the sauce, and give it a couple of boilings; season with a little
salt, and strain through a tammy. If the ham should be too
salt, put in a little sugar. Observe, that this sauce is
not to be so thick as the béchamel.   406.--VELOUTÉ, OR
BÉCHAMEL, A NEW METHOD. (Ude.) 
 Put into a stewpan a knuckle of veal, some slices of ham, four
or five pounds of beef, the legs and loin of a fowl; all
the trimmings of meat or game that you have, and moisten with
boiled water sufficient to cover half the meat; make it sweat
gently on a slow fire, till the meat is done through; this you may
ascertain by thrusting your knife into it; if no 
 *This thickening is what is called in French, liaison; the yolks of
two or four eggs.   blood follows, it is time to moisten with
boiling water sufficient to cover all the meat. Then season with
a bundle of parsley and green onions, a clove, half a
bay-leaf, thyme, a little salt, and trimmings of
mushrooms. When the sauce has boiled long enough to let the
knuckle be well done, skim off all the fat, strain it through a silken
sieve, and boil down this consommé till it is nearly a glaze; next take
four spoonfuls of very fine flour, dilute it with three pints of very
good cream, in a stewpan big enough to contain the cream,
consommé, flour, &c.; boil the flour and cream
on a slow fire. When it boils, pour in the consommé, and continue to
boil it on a slow fire if the sauce be thick, but on the contrary, if
the sauce be thin, on a quick fire, in order to thicken it. Season with
salt, but put no pepper. No white sauce admits
pepper, except when you introduce into it something chopped fine.
Pepper appears like dust, and should therefore be avoided. This
sauce should be very thick. Put it into a white basin through a
tammy, and keep it in the larder out of the dust. 
 This sauce is the foundation, if I may so speak, of all sorts of
little sauces, where white sauces are preferred. It should always be
kept very thick, as you can thin it whenever you please, either with
stock-broth or with cream. If too thin, it could not be used for
so many purposes.   407.--CAPER SAUCE À LA FRANCAISE. 
 Take some capers, cut them small, put some essence of ham into
a small saucepan with some pepper; let it boil; then put in the
capers; let them boil two or three times, and they are ready to
serve.   408.--CAPER SAUCE, TO IMITATE. 
 Boil some parsley very slowly to let it become of a bad color; then
cut it up,  but do not chop it fine; put it into
melted butter, with a teaspoonful of salt, and a dessert-spoonful
of vinegar; boil up, and then serve.   409.--CAPER SAUCE FOR
MEAT. 
 Take some capers, chop half of them very fine, and put the rest in
whole; then chop some parsley with a little grated bread, and put
to it some salt; put them into butter melted very smooth, let
them boil up, and then pour them into a sauce-boat.   410.--TOMATO
SAUCE FRANÇAISE. 
 Cut ten tomatoes into quarters and put them into a saucepan with four
onions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one clove,
and a quarter of a pound of butter; set the saucepan on the fire,
stirring occasionally, for three-quarters of an hour; strain the sauce
through a horse-hair sieve, and serve with the directed articles. 
 411.--TOMATOES, GARNITURE OF. 
 Take thirty tomatoes, all as near of a size as possible, and of a
good form, cut them in halves, press out the juice, seeds, and
pieces by the side of the stalk, but do it with great care, lest the
skins should be injured; make a farce as follows:--take a little
ham, garlic, parsley, shalots, champignons shred, the
yolks of two hard boiled eggs, crumb of bread, an
anchovy, butter, salt, nutmeg, and allspice;
give all these a boil, then pound them well, adding at times a little
oil, strain it through a quenelle sieve; fill the tomatoes with this
farce, place them on a baking tin, cover them with grated bread crumbs
and Parmesan cheese, moisten them with a little oil, and bake
them in a hot oven; serve the tomatoes as a garnish to a rump of
beef, or any other joint you may think proper.   412.--TOMATO
SAUCE À L'ITALIENNE. 
 Take five or six onions, slice, and put them into a saucepan with a
little thyme, bay-leaf, twelve tomatoes, a bit of butter,
salt, half a dozen allspice, a little Indian saffron, and
a glass of stock; set them on the fire, taking care to stir it
frequently, as it is apt to stick; when you perceive the sauce is thick
strain it like a purée.   KETCHUPS.   413.--MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 
 Take the full grown flaps of mushrooms, wipe them clean, crush them
with the hands, throw in a handful of salt with every peck of
mushrooms, and let them stand all night; then put them into stewpans,
and set them in a quick oven for twelve hours; strain them through a hair sieve
and press out all the juice. To every gallon of liquor put of
cloves, Jamaica and black pepper, and of ginger,
one ounce each, and half a pound of common salt. Set it on a slow fire
and let it boil until half the liquor is wasted, then put it into a clean china
vessel, and when cold bottle it. 
 Another mode of making mushroom ketchup, is to take a stewpan full of
the large flap mushrooms that are not worm eaten, and the skins
and fringe of those you have pickled; throw a handful of salt among
them, and set them by a slow fire. They will produce a great deal of liquor,
which you must strain, and put to it four ounces of shalots, two cloves of
garlic, an ounce of pepper, a table-spoonful of ginger,
mace, and cloves; boil the liquor slowly and skim it well. When
cold, bottle and cork it close. In two months boil it again with a little
additional spice, and a stick of horseradish,--it will then keep
a year; which mushroom ketchup rarely does, if not boiled a second
time.    414.--WALNUT KETCHUP. 
 Take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into a tub, mix
them up well with common salt, (from two to three pounds,) let them
stand for six days, frequently beating and mashing them; by this time the
shells become soft and pulpy. Then by banking it up on one side of the tub, and
at the same time by raising the tub on that side, the liquor will drain clear
off to the other; then take that liquor out; the mashing and banking up may be
repeated as often as liquor is found. The quantity will be about six quarts.
When done let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any scum arises; then
bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of
allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of cloves,
with the above ingredients; let it slowly boil for half an hour. When boiled,
let an equal quantity of the spice go into each bottle; when corked, let
the bottle be filled quite up; cork them tight, seal them over, and put them
into a cool and dry place for one year before they are used. 
 415.--TOMATO KETCHUP. 
 Take six pounds of tomatoes, sprinkle them with salt and let
them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will
separate easily; pour them into a colander or coarse sieve, and press them
through, leaving the skins behind; put into the liquor a pint of
Chili vinegar, half a pint of wine, pepper, cloves,
ginger and allspice; boil them together until a third part has
wasted--bottle them tight. The ketchup must be shaken before it is used.
If it is boiled down to one-third, and the corks sealed, it will be much
richer, and keep for years.   416.--SAUCE FOR CHOPS AND STEAKS. 
 Pound together in a mortar one ounce of black pepper, half an ounce
of allspice, one ounce of salt, half an ounce of
horseradish scraped, half an ounce of eschalots. Pour on this
half a pint of mushroom ketchup, and half a pint of walnut
pickle. Infuse for a fortnight, and strain for use.   417.--NASTURTIAN
SAUCE 
 Is eaten with boiled mutton. It is made with the green seeds of
nasturtians, pickled simply in cold vinegar. Cut about six ounces of
butter into small bits, and put them into a small saucepan. Mix with a
wine-glass of water sufficient flour to make a thick
batter, pour it on the butter, and hold the saucepan over hot
coals, shaking it quickly round, till the butter is melted. Let
it just boil up, and then take it from the fire. Thicken it with the pickled
nasturtians, and send it to table in a boat.   418.--CRANBERRY
SAUCE. 
 This sauce is very simply made. A quart of cranberries is
washed and stewed with sufficient water to cover them; when they burst
mix with them a pound of brown sugar, and stir them well. Before you
remove them from the fire, all the berries should have burst. When cold
they will be jellied, and if thrown into a form while warm, will turn out
whole.   419.--CELERY SAUCE. 
 Wash and pare a bunch of celery, cut it into pieces, and boil it
gently until it is tender; add half a pint of cream, and a small piece
of butter rolled in flour; now boil it gently. This is a good
sauce for fowls of all kinds, either roasted or boiled. 
 FARCES AND STUFFINGS.   420.--PANADA. 
 Put into a small stewpan one ounce of fresh butter, a table-spoonful
of chopped mushrooms, a little chopped thyme and  parsley, half a blade of mace, pepper
and salt; stew the whole over the fire for a few minutes, then add to it
a spoonful of white broth, the crumb of two French rolls
previously soaked in milk and squeezed thoroughly dry; stir over the
fire until it no longer adheres to the stewpan; take it off, add the yolks
of two eggs, turn it out and leave it to cool; it is then ready for
use.   421.--UDDER. 
 Boil a calf's udder in broth or water; when cold
trim off the outside: pound and rub through a sieve.   422.--QUENELLE. 
 This is one of the most delicate preparations of forcemeat that we
have, and requires practice, care and attention to make it in perfection. It is
called according to the meat of which it is composed; quenelles of
rabbit, chicken, fish, or game. 
 Take the meat of two rabbits, pound it and rub it through a
sieve; take the same quantity of panada, and also of udder or very sweet
fresh butter, pound these ingredients for a quarter of an hour, add a
table-spoonful of white sauce, two eggs, and two yolks;
take a small piece, roll it in a ball, and throw it in boiling water;
when done it should cut firm and consistent, yet light and delicate; if more
seasoning is required it should be added before it is taken out of the
mortar. 
 To mould them: have two table-spoons, fill one with the farce, shape with a
knife, dipping it in boiling water to make it perfectly smooth; dip the
other spoon in hot water, with which take out the quenelle and lay it in
a buttered stewpan; they should be egg-shaped, and perfectly smooth, and
boiled for a quarter of an hour.   423.--PANADA FOR FISH QUENELLE, OR
FORCEMEAT. 
 Put two-thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a
quart, with nearly one ounce of butter; when boiling, stir in a quarter
of a pound of flour; keep it moving over the fire until it forms a
smooth and tough paste. Take it off the fire, add the yolks of three
eggs. When cold, use it where directed.   424.--FORCEMEAT. 
 Take equal quantities of cold chicken, veal, and beef,
shred very small, and mixed together; season, at the same time, with a moderate
quantity of pepper, salt, sweet herbs, and grated
nutmeg--that is to say, if intended for white meat, or for any
thing delicately flavored; but if meant for a savory dish, add a little
minced ham, and an atom of garlic or a shalot. Put the whole in a
stone mortar, and pound it until quite fine, then make it into a paste
with a raw egg, some butter, marrow, or fat of some
kind. When used, it may either be rolled into round balls and fried for any
made dish, or put into any joint of meat or poultry as stuffing;
and if kept in a cool place, and well seasoned, it will keep good for several
days. 
 Indeed, 
 by mixing with any potted meat or game 
an equal proportion of panada, which will always be lighter than
bread-crumbs, the cook will have at once a very fine species of farce,
to be employed in stuffing olives, fillets of fowl, &c. 
 The "farce" is sometimes a delicious preparation of sausage-meat, and
is served up alone; but it enters into the composition of numerous other
dishes.   425.--ANOTHER FORCEMEAT. 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal, pound it, and pass it through a
sieve; one pound of chopped beef suet, and six ounces of panada, pounded
well together; add the veal, season with pepper, salt, and
a little nutmeg; mix well; then add the yolks of six eggs and the
whites of  three; when these are thoroughly
mixed, whisk the other three whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, and
add it to the forcemeat; when all is well mixed together, it is fit for
use.   426.--FARCE CUITE. 
 Cut in small pieces some undressed fowl; put them into a stewpan with
a piece of butter, a little salt, pepper, and a little
nutmeg; shake them over the fire for ten minutes, drain, and let them
cool. Put an equal portion of crumbs of bread in the same stewpan with
some broth, and a little parsley chopped fine; stir it with a
wooden spoon till it becomes quite soft. Let it get cold then pound the
fowl until it will pass through a tamis; pound the bread also,
and put it through the sieve; then put equal parts of the meat,
butter, and bread together, and pound them with yolks of
eggs sufficient to make it into a proper consistence, and keep it in a jar
for use.   427.--FARCE OF HAM AND VEAL. 
 Mince equal quantities of ham and veal, a bunch of
parsley, and some pepper; put it on the fire with a little
broth; let it stew very gently, then pound it in a mortar; add to it an
equal portion of bread soaked in milk and pounded; pound the
whole together with some butter, and mix it with the yolks of
eggs. 
 Bacon and veal which have been used in braising, or any thing
highly impregnated with the flavor of herbs and onions, and very
rich, may be employed afterwards as a farce, pounded and mixed with
panada. *    428.--STUFFING. 
 Take equal quantities of beef suet and crumbs of bread; chop
the suet very finely; chop together marjoram, thyme, and
parsley, having as much parsley as 
 *Farce for pies.   there is thyme and marjoram together; add
to them a salt-spoonful of grated lemon peel, pepper,
salt, and a little grated nutmeg; add eggs sufficient to
bind it together.   429.--SEASONING FOR STUFFING. 
 One pound of salt dried and sifted, half an ounce of ground white
pepper, two ounces of dried thyme, one ounce of dried
marjoram, and one ounce of nutmeg. When this seasoning is
used, parsley only is required to be chopped in sufficient quantity to
make the stuffing green. The proportions are--half a pound of
bread-crumbs, three eggs, a quarter of a pound of suet,
half an ounce of seasoning, and peel of half a lemon grated. 
 430.--FORCEMEAT. 
 Shred a little ham or gammon, some cold veal or fowl,
some beef suet, a small quantity of onion, some parsley,
very little lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, or pounded
mace, and either white pepper or cayenne, and bread
crumbs. Pound it in a mortar, and bind it with one or two eggs,
beaten or strained. For forcemeat patties, the mixture as above. 
 431.--FOR HARE, OR ANY THING IN IMITATION OF IT. 
 The scalded liver, an anchovy, some fat bacon, a little
suet, some parsley, thyme, knotted marjoram, a
little shalot, and either onion or chives, all chopped fine;
crumbs of bread, pepper, and nutmeg, beat in a mortar with
an egg.   432.--FISH FORCEMEAT. 
 Chop, and afterwards pound in a mortar, any kind of fish, adding an
anchovy or two, or a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies,
but do not allow the taste to prevail, and the yolk of a hard-boiled
egg. 
 If for maigre,  pound butter with it; but
otherwise, the fat of bacon pounded separately, and then mixed. Add a  third portion of bread, prepared by soaking
and pounding previously, and mix the whole up with raw eggs. For
mackerel, pike, haddock, and soles, take the veal
forcemeat, add a little anchovy essence, and use rather less
herbs.   433.--OYSTER FORCEMEAT. 
 Take a dozen oysters, strain them from the liquor, mince them, and
add a quarter of a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs, one ounce and a
half of butter broken very small, a dessert-spoonful of parsley,
the grated rind of half a lemon; season with a little
mace, cayenne, and salt; mix well; then bind together with
the yolk of an egg unbeaten, and a little of the oyster liquor.
Care must be taken that the oyster flavor predominates. 
 434.--FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR SOUP MAIGRE. 
 Forcemeat balls for maigre soups of any description should be always
used to compensate for the savor of which they are deprived by the want of
meat-broth; and may be made of fish and sweet herbs, or
only of herbs and crumbs of bread, in the following manner:-- 
 Pound in a mortar the soft parts of a crawfish, or a few shrimps,
with an anchovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, beaten up
with crumbs of stale bread, pounded mace, cayenne pepper,
salt, and a very little finely minced garlic. Then work it up
into a paste with a raw egg to bind it into dough; roll it out,
cut it into small balls of the size of marbles, and fry them of a fine
brown. 
 
 Or: --Leave out the fish, and make them
entirely of bread and savory chopped
herbs--chervil, tarragon, marjoram, and
thyme, with a little garlic and a shalot--and bind them up as
above, with egg, butter, and crumbs of bread. 
 
 Or: --Chop, and afterwards pound in a mortar, any
kind of fish, adding an anchovy or two, or a tea-spoonful of the
essence of anchovies, but do not allow the taste to prevail, and the
yolk of a hard-boiled egg: pound butter with it; add a third
portion of bread, prepared by soaking and pounding previously, and mix
the whole up with raw eggs. 
 
 Or: --Beat the flesh and soft parts of a
middling-sized lobster, half an anchovy, a large piece of boiled
celery, the yolk of a hard egg, a little cayenne,
mace, salt, and white pepper, with two table-spoonfuls of
bread-crumbs one ditto of oyster liquor, two ounces of
butter warmed, and two eggs long beaten: make into balls, and fry
of a fine brown in butter. 
 
 Or: --Take a few shrimps, stripped of their shells,
an anchovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, with
bread-crumbs and seasoning as above, but adding some finely
minced sweet herbs, and omitting the oyster liquor: make all this
into a paste with a little butter and a raw egg, made up
in balls and fried as before. 
 
 Or: --Instead of making the balls of fish and
frying them, it is a more simple way to make them merely of
bread-crumbs, hard-boiled egg, and sweet herbs seasoned
with raw egg: drop the balls, one by one, into the boiling soup a few
minutes before serving. Two eggs and a quarter of a pound of
bread should make twelve or fifteen balls. 
 
 Or: --Pound in a mortar, into a smooth substance, an
anchovy, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, a head of boiled
celery, and some sweet herbs, with a couple of table-spoonfuls of
bread-crumbs, seasoned with mace, a grating of nutmeg,
cayenne, and salt; then add two ounces of butter melted
and work it into a paste with a little flour and the yolk of a
raw egg; make it into balls the size of marbles, and fry them quite
brown.   435.--FORCEMEAT FOR TURTLE.--(As at the Bush,
Bristol.) 
 One pound of fine fresh suet, one pound 
of ready-dressed veal or chicken chopped fine, crumbs of
bread, a little shalot or onion, salt, white
pepper, nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, and
lemon-thyme finely shred; beat as many fresh eggs, yolks and
whites separately, as will make the above ingredients into a moist
paste; roll into small balls, and boil them in fresh lard,
putting them in just as it boils up. When of a light brown, take them out, and
drain them before the fire. If the suet be moist or stale, a great many
more eggs will be necessary. 
 
 Balls  made this way are remarkably light; but being
greasy, some people prefer them with less suet and eggs. They may
therefore be made thus:--Chop up the materials with a little white
pepper and salt, a sage leaf or two scalded and finely
chopped, and the yolk of an egg; make them into small cakes or fritters,
and fry them.   436.--RISSOLES OF ALL KINDS. 
 Chop some dressed chicken or veal very fine, fry a little
chopped parsley, shalot, and mushrooms, very fine, and a little
slice of tongue or ham or not, fry them in one ounce of
butter a few minutes, stirring it with a wooden spoon all the time; dry
the butter up with flour, then add a few small spoonfuls of good
veal stock, a gill of cream, three spoonfuls of béchamel
sauce; now put in all your chopped meat, add a little
sugar, a few drops of lemon juice, cayenne pepper and
salt, and the yolks of three eggs, boil all well until quite
stiff, take it out of your stewpan on to a dish to get cold; when cold form
them into a shape, either as pears or long balls, using
bread-crumbs to form them; put them to get cold; in the mean time break
two eggs in a basin, and then egg the forms once or twice, and
bread-crumb them; have your fat quite hot to fry them, dish them
on a napkin with fried parsley.   437.--EGGS FOR TURTLE. 
 Beat three hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, and make into a
paste with the yolk of a raw one; roll it into small balls, and
throw them into boiling water for two minutes to harden. Though formerly
much used, they have latterly gone out of fashion.   438.--PASSOVER BALLS FOR
SOUP. 
 Chop an onion and half a pound of suet very finely; stew them
together until the suet is melted, then pour it hot upon eight spoonfuls
of biscuit-flour; mix it well together; add a little salt, a
little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and ginger, and six
eggs. Put the balls into the soup when it boils, and boil them for a
quarter of an hour. The quantity of eggs and flour may appear
disproportioned, but the flour employed is of a peculiar kind, used for
the purpose in Jewish families. Nothing can exceed the excellence of the balls
made after this receipt: they are applicable to any kind of soups. 
 439.--FARCE OF VEAL OR FOWL.  
 Cut up a fowl, or some veal, form the fillet into small dice,
cut in the same quantity of good fat ham cut small, and a few
truffles, a little parsley, shalots, and a little of all kinds of
fine sweet herbs, and a few chopped mushrooms, and one blade of
mace, three cloves, put it all in a stewpan to draw down, with
half a pound of butter for one hour; season it, add bread-crumbs
to dry up the fat, then put it into your mortar and pound it very fine,
then rub it through a wire sieve, return it back into the mortar, and work in
three or four eggs, leaving out one or two whites; mix it well up
together, and put it into the larder until required. If you want any green,
color some with prepared spinach juice; this will do for all cold  pies, or game, or filling turkeys, or
boned fowls, or galantine. 
 You may make this farce with dressed meat, then you must not place it
to draw down on the fire; all the rest the same, only truffles, and
mushrooms as well as the rest must be first dressed. 
 440.--SEASONING FOR ROAST PORK, DUCKS, OR GEESE. 
 Two-thirds onion, one-third green sage, chopped fine, bread
crumbs equal to weight of both; season with pepper and salt,
and mix with a bit of butter and the yolk of an egg. 
 441.--FOR A SUCKING PIG. 
 A teacupful of grated bread, two ounces of butter seasoned
with salt, pepper and nutmeg; scald and chop fine two
small onions and thirty leaves of young sage; mix with a beaten
egg, and sew it in the pig.   442.--FOR A GOOSE. 
 Scald and chop fine the liver, crumb twice its weight in
bread, chop fine four small onions, half their weight of green
sage, with half an ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg, and a
table-spoonful of potato starch; season highly with salt and
pepper.   443.--GARNISHES. 
 Parsley is the most universal garnish to all kinds of cold
meat, poultry, fish, butter, cheese, etc.
Horseradish is the garnish for roast beef, and fish in
general; sometimes, for the latter, it is alternated with slices of
lemon. Slices of lemon garnish boiled fowl, turkey,
fish, roast veal, and calf's head.   444.--FARCES
AND STUFFINGS. 
 A veal stuffing. Chop some suet fine, a little parsley,
a small piece of shalot, rub through a dry sieve a small quantity of
basil, knotted marjoram, thyme, add these to your
suet, a grating of half a lemon, a few grains of nutmeg, a
few bread-crumbs, and one or two eggs, mix all well up together,
season with pepper and salt. 
 If for game, scrape the raw livers into the stuffing,
prepared as above, only in addition pound it all fine. 
 445.--FORCEMEAT INGREDIENTS. 
 Forcemeat should be made to cut with a knife, but not dry or heavy,
no one flavor should predominate; according to what it is wanted for, a choice
may be made from the following list; be careful to use the least of those
articles that are most pungent; cold fowl, or veal, or
ham, scraped fat bacon, beef suet, crumbs of bread,
parsley, white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks
and whites of eggs beaten to bind the mixture. Any of the following
articles may be used to alter the taste; oysters, anchovies,
tarragon, savory, pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme,
basil, yolks of hard eggs, cayenne, garlic,
shalots, endives, Jamaica pepper in powder, or two or three
cloves.   446.--FORCEMEATS, ETC.    Cold fowl, veal, or
mutton. Scraped ham, or gammon. Fat bacon, or fat
ham. Beef suet. Veal suet. Butter. Marrow.
Soaked bread, and crumbs of bread. Parsley and white
pepper. Salt and nutmeg. Cold soles. Oysters.
Anchovies. Lobster, tarragon. Savoy, pennyroyal. Knotted
marjoram. Thyme and lemon thyme. Basil and
sage. Lemon peel.  Yolks of
hard eggs. Whites and yolks of eggs. Mace and
cloves. Cayenne and garlic. Shalot and onion.
Chives and chervil. Ground pepper and two or three
cloves.    447.--BROWN COLORING FOR MADE DISHES. 
 Take four ounces of sugar, beat it fine, put it into an iron
fryingpan or earthen pipkin, set it over a clear fire, and when the
sugar is melted it will be frothy; put it higher from the fire until it
is a fine brown, keep it stirring all the time; fill the pan up with red
wine, take care that it does not boil over, add a little salt and
lemon, put a little cloves and mace, a shalot or two, boil
it gently for ten minutes, pour it in a basin till it is cold, then bottle it
for use.   BEEF. 
 BEEF is dressed in various ways all the year round; but, for 
 roasting,  the best season is from November to the
end of March. For joints, the only really good 
 roasting pieces  are--the 
 sirloin  and the 
 long ribs;  the short ribs, which are
cut near the neck, never roast well, and should not be used for this
purpose; the middle ribs are the best. The under part, or 
 fillet,  of the sirloin, if cut out, may be
made into a delicious stew; or, if cut crosswise into steaks, they will
be found more tender than those of the rump. 
 Beef requires to be hung a long time, in order to insure its being
tender. When however the weather is not favorable for keeping, it will be much
improved by being laid for a few hours, previous to roasting, in a marinade of
this kind--three parts water to one of vinegar, some salt,
with a few peppercorns. Each joint must be carefully examined before it
is spitted, and any portions that may have been injured cut away. 
 The round is, in large families, one of the most profitable parts: it is
usually boiled, and, like most of the boiling parts of beef, is
generally sold at less than the roasting joints. 
 The brisket is also less in price than the roasting parts; it is not so
economical a part as the round, having more bone to be weighed with it,
and more fat. Where there are children, very fat joints are not
desirable, being often disagreeable to them, and sometimes prejudicial,
especially if they have a dislike to it. This joint also requires more cooking
than many others; that is to say, it requires a double allowance of time to be
given for boiling it: it will, when served, be hard and scarcely
digestible if no more time be allowed to boil it than that which is sufficient
for other joints and meats. When stewed it is excellent; and when cooked
fresh, 
 (i.e.  unsalted,) an excellent stock for soup
may be extracted from it, and yet the meat will serve as well for
dinner. 
 The edgebone, or aitchbone, is not considered to be a very economical joint,
the bone being large in proportion to the meat; but the greater
part of it, at least, is as good as that of any prime part. 
 The rump is the part of which the butcher makes profit, by selling it
in the form of steaks. In the country, as there is not an equal demand
for steaks, the whole of it may be purchased as a joint, and at the
price of other prime parts. It may be turned to good account in producing many
excellent dishes. If salted, it is simply boiled; if used unsalted, it is
usually stewed. 
 The veiny piece is sold at a low price per pound; but if hung for a day or
two, it is very good and very profitable.  Where
there are a number of servants and children to have an early dinner, this part
of beef will be found desirable. 
 From the leg and shin excellent stock for soup may be drawn;
and if not reduced too much, the meat taken from the bones may be
served as a stew with vegetables; or it may be seasoned, pounded with
butter, and potted; or chopped very fine, and seasoned with
herbs, and bound together by egg and bread-crumbs; it may
be fried in balls, or in the form of large eggs, and served with a
gravy made with a few spoonfuls of the soup. 
 Of half an ox-cheek excellent soup may be made: the meat, when
taken from the bones, may be served as a stew. 
 When one or two ribs are purchased by a small family, it is a good
plan to have the bones taken out, and the meat rolled round in
the shape of a fillet; a considerable saving is effected by this plan, as, when
not so prepared, the thin part of the extremity of the bone is
frequently wasted. The bone cut out when the meat is raw will
assist in making soap, and is much preferable to a cold
beef-bone. They are sometimes cut off short, and salted or stewed, but
rolled is the better plan; and in this manner a single rib can be
skewered into a handsome fillet; the fat and lean being marbled, and the
appearance of the whole improved.   448.--TO COLLAR RIBS of BEEF. 
 Take two or three ribs of beef; cut it from the bones; rub it
well with salt, brown sugar, and saltpetre; let it remain
a fortnight, turning it every day; then season it with pepper,
mace, cloves, allspice, and a clove of garlic
chopped very fine; cover it well with parsley, thyme, and
sweet marjoram; roll it up very tight, and bind it round with tape; put
it into a pot with some water, cover it close up, and send it to the
oven to be baked very slowly three or four hours; then take it out, and press
it between two boards with weights. This is an excellent dish for luncheon or
breakfast.   449.--A MARINADE TO BASTE ROAST MEATS. 
 Chop up some fat bacon with a clove of garlic and a sprig of
parsley; add salt, pepper, a spoonful of vinegar,
and four spoonfuls of oil; beat it up well, and baste the meat
with it.   450.--SIRLOIN of BEEF ROASTED. 
 Break the upper part of the chine bones, cut them out, and cut
through the strong gristle on the top about an inch apart, and skewer it in its
place, which will prevent its drawing up or looking unsightly. Run the spit
just under the bark at the thin end, and bring it out between the joints. By
spitting it thus you avoid showing where the spit has gone through. Cover the
fat with a sheet of buttered paper, and roast gently for three or
four hours, according to the size of the joint. The under part is sometimes
stuffed with forcemeat, in the following manner:-- 
 Carefully lift up the fat from the inside of the sirloin with
a sharp knife; take out all the meat close to the bone, and mince
it small; take one-half pound of suet, and chop it fine; mix with it
some grated bread-crumbs, a little lemon-peel, thyme,
eschalot minced very fine; mix all together with a glass of port
wine; put it back again into the same place, and cover it with the
skin and fat; skewer it down neatly with small wooden skewers,
and cover it with paper. The meat should be spitted before you
take out the inside; and when done do not take off the paper until the
joint is put into the dish: then serve it up garnished with scraped
horseradish.  
 The method of taking the meat from the bone, and rolling it so
as to have the forcemeat in the middle, is easier, but adds its flavor
to the whole joint; while this way keeps the upper and the under part
separate.   451.--TO DRESS THE INSIDE OF A SIRLOIN. 
 Cut it out in one piece, if not used at table; stew it with good
broth or gravy, a little spice, and a tablespoonful of
walnut ketchup. Serve with chopped pickles.   452.--TO DRESS
THE INSIDE OF A COLD SIRLOIN. 
 Out out all the meat, and a little fat, into pieces as thick
as your finger, and four inches long; dredge them with flour, and fry in
butter of a nice brown: drain the butter from the meat,
and toss it up in a rich gravy, seasoned with pepper,
salt, anchovy, and shalot. Do not let it boil on any account.
Before you serve, add two spoonfuls of vinegar and a glass of port
wine. Garnish with crimped parsley. 
 
 Or: --Cut the meat in slices about four inches
long, and one-half an inch thick, the fat with the lean; season them
with pepper and salt, and fry them in good fresh butter;
have ready some good brown gravy, and stew them gently for half an hour;
add a little mushroom ketchup, and a tablespoonful of eschalot
vinegar, with a wine glass of port, and just before serving put in a
small piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve hot in a covered
dish. This part is called the "fillet," and, when raw, may be either stewed
whole or in the above manner.   458.--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Cut the inside of the sirloin into pieces, dredge it with
flour, put it into a frying-pan in which some butter is boiling;
when it is browned, put it into a stew-pan with some brown gravy, highly
seasoned, squeeze in half a lemon, and serve.   454.--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Cut it in strips, as for collops, flatten it, flour, and fry in
butter; lay in the centre of a hot dish a mound of spinach, with
poached eggs on the top: lay the beef round the
spinach.   455.--FILLET OF BEEF, ROASTED. 
 If unaccustomed to the use of the knife, the butcher's aid may be obtained
to cut the fillet, which comes from the inside of the sirloin; it may be
larded or roasted plain; for high dinners it is larded; baste with fresh
butter. It must be a large fillet which takes longer than an hour and
twenty minutes; serve with tomato sauce, garnish with
horseradish, unless served with currant jelly, then serve as with
venison or hare, on warmed dishes and plates.   456.--FILLET
OF BEEF. 
 
 To dress the inside of a Sirloin of Beef to taste
like Hare.  Take the inside of a large sirloin that has
hung until tender; soak it twenty-four hours in a few glasses of port
wine and vinegar. Have ready a good stuffing as fur
hare; do not spread, but put it into the middle of the beef, and
roll it up tight. Roast it on a hanging spit, and baste it with a glass of the
wine and vinegar, mixed with a teaspoonful of Jamaica
pepper, and a clove or two, in the finest powder, until it is all
dried up; then baste with butter. Serve with a rich gravy in the
dish, and currant-jelly sauce in a tureen.   457.--RUMP of
BEEF.   If of a well-fed ox, and hung till tender, this is one of the
most juicy and best flavored of all the joints of beef, but is  more frequently stewed than roasted. It is generally
sold in the country undivided from the aitch-bone; or cut across, and
not lengthwise, which makes it too large for one dressing, and neighter fit for
boiling nor roasting. 
 At family dinners, a Yorkshire pudding is a usual accompaniment, but now
seldom served at genteel tables.   458.--TO STEW BEEF. 
 It should be put down in a pot with just sufficient cold water to
cover the meat, and closely covered. After boiling three or four hours,
according to the size of the piece, cut in small pieces, not larger than dice,
two or three carrots and heads of celery, with a little sweet
herbs, and put them into the pot along with peppercorns, mace
and a couple of large onions stuck full of cloves, and let it
then simmer by the side of the fire for two or three hours, taking care to skim
off any grease that may appear on the top. 
 By this time the meat will probably be tender enough; when take out
the whole onions, mince them, and fry them in bitter, to be mixed in the
gravy made by the meat, which season with salt and
cayenne, or Chili-vinegar, to which add some mushroom or
walnut ketchup. Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and
brown it, if necessary, with a spoonful of sugar burnt soft; which,
besides, imparting its color, adds an agreeable flavor. Such is the most simple
mode; but the sauce may be much improved by a glass or two of port
wine and a spoonful of curry powder; if the odor of garlic be
not objected to, a clove boiled in the stew will be found to give it a
fine flavor. Garnish with vegetables.    Stewed Beef.  An illustration of a piece of meat on a platter surrounded by garnishes.  
 A small piece of beef--say of four pounds--will take the time
mentioned; but the large joints will require full double that time; and should
be put to stew overnight, adding the vegetables in the morning. 
 459.--RUMP OF BEEF STEW. 
 Half roast it; then put it into a pot with three pints of water, a
pound of slice bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, two
wine-glasses of vinegar, and a bottle of cider or small
wine; stick cloves into a couple of large onions, add a
few sage-leaves, and cover the beef closely, adding more
water should there not be suffficient gravy from the meat.
Let it simmer for three hours; then strain the gravy. Boil or bake some
button onions, and lay them round the beef; cover it also with
forcemeat balls, fried ornaments of paste, and mushrooms,
if in season; add to the gravy a glass of port wine, a spoonful
of soy and Oude sauce; boil down a part to a glaze, and put it on the
beef: thicken the remainder if necessary, and pour it round, garnishing
the dish with pickles. 
 
 Or: --Season it high with cayenne,
salt, allspice, cloves, and a blade of mace, all in
fine powder. Bind it up tight, and lay it into a pot that will just hold it:
resting it on two or three twigs, to prevent the meat from sticking. Fry
three large onions sliced, and put them to it, with carrots,
turnips, a shalot, a blade of mace, and some celery. Cover
the meat with good beef-broth, and simmer it as gently as
possible for several hours until quite tender. Clear off the fat; and
add to the gravy half a pint of port wine, a small glass of
Chili vinegar, and a large spoonful of ketchup; simmer half an
hour, and serve in a deep dish. The herbs to be used should be
burnet, tarragon,  parsley,
thyme, basil, marjoram, and all or any of the most
savory sort. 
 
 Or: --Prepare the beef as directed in the
foregoing receipts and glaze it twice; stew some white haricot beans
in good brown gravy, with an onion sliced, a carrot, some
parsley, and a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic, a
bay-leaf, and a slice of lean ham; let all simmer gently together till
the beans are sufficiently tender; then separate them from the other
vegetables, and put them in a sieve to drain; pass the sauce and
vegetables through a tammy, add a table-spoonful of vinegar, and if not
thick enough, a bit of butter rolled in flour; put in the haricot
beans, make all boiling-hot, and pour the sauce into the dish round
the beef.   460.--BRISKET OF BEEF STEWED. 
 Stew it in sufficient water to cover the meat; when quite
tender, take out the bones, and skim off the fat; add to the
gravy, when strained, a glass of wine and a little spice
tied up in a muslin bag. Have ready either mushrooms, truffles,
or vegetables boiled, and cut into shapes. Lay them on and round the
beef; reduce part of the gravy to a glaze; lay it on the top, and
pour the remainder into the dish. 
 It is a good piece to be stewed, as it may be cut from the bone, and
of any size.   461.--LEG of BEEF STEWED. 
 Salt six pounds of the half-leg, or stiff marrow-bone of
beef for three or four days. Make holes in it about one and a half inches
deep, and press in, very hard, forcemeat made in the following
manner: one and a half pounds of suet sliced very fine; pepper,
salt, and a few cloves, some winter savory, and sweet
marjoram, mixed well together. The beef must be baked in a deep pan,
with water reaching about three-quarters of the way up, and
forcemeat spread over the top, which, when the meat is baked, is
taken off, cut into shapes, and laid round the dish.   462.--BOUILLON 
 Is the 
 common soup  of France, and is in use in almost every
French family. Put into an earthen stock-pot in the proportion of one
pound of beef to one quart of cold water. Place it on the side of
the fire, and let it become slowly hot. By so doing the fibre of the
meat is enlarged, the gelatine is dissolved, and the savorous
parts of the meat are diffused through the broth. When the object
is simply to make a good, pure-flavored beef broth, part of the shin or
leg will answer the purpose, adding some vegetables, and letting it stew
four or five hours; but if the meat is to be eaten, the rump or
leg-of-mutton piece should be used.   463.--BOUILLI. 
 The rump of beef is best for this purpose, as the meat is to
be served up in a separate dish, and will make a finely flavored sort of soup.
Take as much of it as may be thought necessary; but for a small party, say from
four to six pounds, along with two or three large roasted onions, in one
of which some cloves may be stuck, and a moderate quantity of whole
pepper, with a bunch of sweet herbs; to which an anchovy
may be added; put it in a stewpan, covered with rather more than a pint of
cold water to every pound of meat; and let it simmer by the side
of the fire for four or five hours, or until it has become quite tender; then
take out the herbs and onions, and add carrots,
turnips, and celery, either cut into small squares or sliced, and
let the whole boil until sufficiently stewed, and ready for the table. 
 The soup should then be strained off and served separately, leaving only so
much as may be necessary for making sauce for the vegetables. The
sauce should be a little thickened, and seasoned  to the palate; if a clove of garlic, or a teaspoonful
of garlic and Chili vinegar, be added, it will improve the
flavor. In Ireland it is not uncommon to send up the bouilli smothered in
onion sauce, the other vegetables being either not used, or brought up
in the soup; in France it is very usual to dress cabbage and
sausages as an accompaniment to the bouilli; in England, it is more
customary to serve it up with the vegetable-sauce as above-stated.
Cucumbers cut into dice and stewed, with a spoonful of Chili
vinegar added, are served at most of the German hotels. The meat if
gently stewed until quite tender, without being boiled to rags, will be found
excellent, and the whole an admirable dish.   464.--TO RESTORE TAINTED
MEAT. 
 Pour a few drops of hydrochloric acid in water till of a slight sour
taste, and immerse the tainted meat in it for an hour or so, and it will
become quite sweet again.   465.--BROILING. 
 The cook must prepare her fire in due time. When ready, it should be clear
and bright, so clear from black coal and smoke that the chop or
steak may come from the gridiron without blemish or taint of
sulphur or smoke. The best fuel for a broil is composed of
charcoal and coke, as little smoke is emitted from either, even on
commencing the fire, and when well ignited, it is entirely free from it; coke,
added to a brisk coal fire, also burns bright, and is well suited for
the operation, though with care a proper fire may be made of good hard
coal. There is this amongst other disadvantages, in cutting too thick a
steak, the outside is likely to be scorched to horny hardness before the
interior is half cooked; hence, to say nothing of the misery of those who have
not large mouths, the disappointed epicure must either wait until it is put
again on the gridiron, or instead of eating it rare, be constrained to eat it
raw. No gridiron should be used but those with fluted bars, which, forming
channels, the greater part of the fat which otherwise falls into the
fire, and scorches the steak, is drawn off into a gutter at the bottom;
the gridiron should be thoroughly heated, and the bars rubbed with beef
or mutton suet previously to putting on the steak, to prevent its
being marked by, or adhering to, the bars. A close eye should be kept on the
steak to watch the moment for turning it. which is repeatedly done
during the process; broiling tongs of convenient size should be used, with
which, by a little practice, the steak may be turned with ease and
despatch; the cook must have her dish thoroughly heated to receive the broil
when done, and the cover hot to place on it instantly. Even when she has
accomplished her task, if the servant who is to take it to table loiters on the
way, the steak will have lost its zest. A steak or chop should be
briskly cooked, speedily conveyed to table, and served with despatch. 
 466.--BEEF STEAKS, BROILED. 
 Be particular that the fire is clear; it is of no use to attempt to broil a
steak over a dull, smoky, or flaring fire; see that the gridiron is
clean, and the bars rubbed with suet preparatory to laying on the
steak; when they are browned turn them; do not be afraid of doing this
often, as this is the best plan to preserve the gravy. When they
are done rub them over with a piece of fresh butter, pepper and
salt them, sprinkle the shalot or onion cut very small, and send
them to table with oyster sauce, a dish of nicely cooked greens, and
well boiled potatoes: they are frequently and pleasantly  garnished with scraped horse-radish.   467.--THE
ENGLISH DISH OF BEEF STEAK AND ONIONS. 
 Pound the steak, season, and fry it in a saute or fryingpan; then
dredge flour over it, and add, by degrees, a cup of boiling water
with more seasoning. Drain the onions, which must have been
boiled, cut them up, and put them into the pan, having taken out the
steak; add a lump of butter and a little more flour; stir
them to prevent scorching; and when the onions are well browned, put in
the steak, and place the whole over the fire till heated thoroughly. In
serving, heap the onions upon the steak.   468.--BEEF
STEAKS ROLLED AND ROASTED. 
 Cut handsome steaks from the rump, and if not sufficiently
tender let them be well beaten; make a rich stuffing of equal parts of
ham and veal well peppered; stew it for a short time, and pound
it in a mortar with bread steeped in milk, a lump of
butter, and the yolk of two or three eggs; spread this
forcemeat over the steaks, roll them up and tie them tightly,
roast them before a clear fire. They will occupy an hour and twenty minutes to
an hour and a half roasting; baste well with butter while roasting, and
serve with brown gravy.   469.--STEWED BEEF STEAKS. 
 Stew the steaks in three parts of a pint of water, to which
has been added a bunch of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, an
onion stuck with cloves--say three, an anchovy, and a lump
of butter soaked in flour; pour over a glass of sherry or
Madeira. Stew with the pan covered down, until the steaks are
tender, but not too much so; then place them in a fryingpan with enough of
fresh butter, hissing hot, to cover them, fry them brown, pour off the
fat, and in its place pour into the pan the gravy in which the
steaks were stewed; when the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is
of a rich consistency, place the steaks in a hot dish, pour the
sauce over them. The steaks should be large, the finest from the
rump, and have a due proportion of fat with them. 
 470.--BEEF STEAKS, A LA FRANCAISE. 
 Take a fine steak and dip it into cold spring water, let it
drain a few minutes, lay it in a dish and pour over it sufficient clarified
butter hot, and cover it; let it remain twelve hours, then remove the
butter, and roll the steak with the rolling-pin a dozen times
rather hardly, let it lie in front of a clear fire ten minutes, turning it once
or twice, put it into a fryingpan. with water half an inch in depth, and
let it fry until it browns. 
 Mince some parsley very fine, chop an eschalot as fine as can
be, and season them with cayenne, salt, and a little white
pepper; work them with a lump of fresh butter, and when the
steak is brown take it from the pan, rub it well with the mixture on
both sides, and return it to the pan until done enough; dish it, thicken the
gravy in the pan with a little butter rolled in flour if
it requires it, and pour it over the steak and serve.   471.--BEEF
STEAKS A LA PARISIENNE. 
 Cut thin steaks from the finest and tenderest part of the
rump, sprinkle pounded salt, a little cayenne and white
pepper combined, over them; lay them in a pan with an ounce of fresh
butter, cut in pieces; work half a teaspoonful of flour with
three ounces of fresh butter, as much parsley minced exceedingly
fine as would lie on a shilling, roll it, and cut in large dice, lay it in a
dish, squeeze the half of a lemon over the butter, and  when the steaks are done lay them upon the
butter; have ready a quantity of raw peeled potatoes, cut in thin
slices, and washed in milk and water ready, fry them in the
butter and gravy left by the steak, and lay them round the
dish; they will be done when they are a rich brown.   472.--PALATES OF
BEEF. 
 Four white skinned palates; if for a white dish lay them all
night in salt and water, wash them well, put them on to scald, take off
all the skin, then put them into your stock pot, let them boil
several hours until so tender that you can pass a straw through them, then take
them up and lay them flat on a large dish separate, placing another on the top
of them with a weight to keep them flat: if to be dressed whole turn the sides
smooth, spread each with quenelle or forcemeat, roll them up and tie
them; it will take six for this dish; steam them for a quarter of an hour, take
them up and glaze them well, and take off the string; if for a turban or
timbales, cut them out with a plain round cutter, either using two small moulds
or one large; proceed with those two as you would for the timbale of
macaroni, leaving out the cheese and any other layer; introduce
slices of truffles all round, and then palates, then mushrooms
until your mould is full, put a layer of quenelle on the top, paper it
on the top with buttered paper, steam as other timbales; haricot roots,
truffles, mushrooms, tomato, piquant, any of these will do
for sauces, or Italienne; glaze the tops when turned out.   473.--BEEF
PALATES. 
 Take as many as required, let them simmer until they peel, put them in a
rich gravy, stew until very tender, season with cayenne,
salt, two teaspoonfuls of mushroom ketchup--serve. 
 474.--BEEF COLLOPS. 
 Any part of beef which is tender will serve to make collops; cut the
beef into pieces about three inches long, beat them flat, dredge them
with flour, fry them in butter, lay them in a stewpan, cover them
with brown gravy, put in half an eschalot minced fine, a lump of
butter rolled in flour to thicken, with a little pepper
and salt; stew without suffering it to boil; serve with pickles,
or squeeze in half a lemon, according to taste; serve in a tureen, and
serve hot.   475.--A BEEF STEW. 
 Take two or three pounds of the rump of beef, cut away all the
fat and skin, and cut it into pieces about two or three inches
square, put it into a stewpan, and pour upon it a quart of broth, let it
boil, sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to taste; when it has
boiled very gently, or simmered two hours, shred finely a large lemon,
add it to the gravy, and in twenty minutes pour in a flavoring composed
of two tablespoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, the juice of the
lemon the rind of which has been sliced into the gravy, a
spoonful of flour, and a little ketchup; add at pleasure two
glasses of Madeira, or one of sherry, or port, a quarter of an
hour after the flavoring, and serve.   476.--BEEF HASHED. 
 Take the bones of the joint to be hashed, and break them small, stew
them in very little water, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and a few
onions; roll a lump of butter in flour, brown it in a
stewpan, pour the gravy to it, and add the meat to be hashed, cut
two small onions in thin slices, a carrot also, and a little
parsley shred finely; stew gently until the meat is hot through,
and serve.    477.--HASH BALLS. 
 Mince cold roast meat very fine, mix it with cold boiled potatoes
chopped; season with pepper and salt, and a little of the
gravy; make it into cakes as large as a biscuit, cover each with
beaten egg and then with bread crumbs, and fry the cakes a light
brown in butter, lard, or dripping.   478.--BEEF
TONGUE--TO CURE. 
 Throw a handful of salt over the tongue, seeing that it is
sprinkled on both sides, let it remain to drain until the following day, make a
pickle of a tablespoonful of common salt, half that quantity of
saltpetre, and the same quantity of coarse sugar as of
salt; rub this mixture well into the tongue, do so every day for
a week; it will then be found necessary to add more salt, a
tablespoonful will suffice; in four more days the tongue will be cured
sufficiently. 
 Some persons do not rub the pickle into the tongue, but let it
absorb it, merely turning it daily; this method will be found to occupy a month
or five weeks before it will be cured. When the tongue is to be dried
affix a paper to it with a date; smoke over a wood fire four days
unless wrapped in paper, and then as many weeks will be required. 
 479.--TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES. 
 To dress them, boil the tongue tender, it will take five hours;
always dress them as they come out of the pickle, unless they have been
very long there, then they may be soaked three or four hours in cold
water, or if they have been smoked, and hung long, they should be softened
by lying in water five or six hours. They should be brought to a boil
gently, and then simmer until tender; when they have been on the fire about two
hours, and the scum removed as it rises, throw in a bunch of sweet herbs
of a tolerable size; it will improve the flavor of the tongue. 
 480.--A FAMILY STEW OF BEEF. 
 Take any piece of beef good for stewing, cut it into small pieces,
slice two or three large onions, and put them into the stewpan with two
ounces of butter or good beef-dripping. When melted, dredge in
some flour, add the meat also dredged with flour, and
enough water to keep it from burning. When the gravy has drawn,
fill up with boiling water, let it come to a boil gently, skim the pot
well, then add a spoonful of mixed spices, and a bay-leaf or two; set
the pan by the side of the fire to stew slowly for a couple of hours. Eleven
pounds of meat will take four hours. This dish may be thickened like
Irish stew, with potatoes, or it may be served with the addition of chopped
vegetables of all kinds, previously fried.   481.--TONGUE LARDED. 
 This when well cooked is especially pleasant to some palates. Take a
tongue which has been pickled, a small one is the best, cut off the
root, and put it into a pan; cover it with water, and let it boil
five-and-twenty or thirty minutes. Take it out, and then dip it in scalding
water to blanch, and remove the skin. 
 Take a piece of fat bacon, cut it into strips for larding. Make a
seasoning of pounded sweet herbs, eschalot, mace,
and a little cayenne pepper mixed with white pepper and
salt; sprinkle the bacon strips with it, and leaving a line for
division down the centre of the tongue. Lard it all over. Braise
the tongue, and then glaze; separate it in the space left, but leave it
attached at either end, so that when laid open on the dish it is not entirely
divided in two. Have ready some brown sauce, flavored with minced
capers, sliced pickled gherkins, the juice of half a
lemon, and half a small teaspoonful of 
cayenne pepper. Pour it when ready into a dish; lay the tongue
upon it, and serve as hot as possible.   482.--BEEF OLIVES. 
 Cut some handsome steaks, flatten them well with a roller, dredge
them well with a small quantity of white pepper and salt, have
some forcemeat, made with the fat and lean of veal mixed
together, a small bit of lean ham or bacon, parsley, and
sweet herbs, with a few bread crumbs, all beaten in a mortar, and
mixed with an egg; lay a little over each steak, and roll them up
tightly, fastening with a skewer; dip them in the yolk of an egg, then
in crumbs of bread, and fry them of a pale brown; rolling up each
separate steak, and binding it together with thread; dish them with
brown sauce, in which put a glass of white wine, with some strong
gravy, seasoned with cayenne.   483.--BŒUF TREMBLANT. 
 Cut a handsome piece of beef from the rump, either a fillet or
square; hang it up for four days, then put it all night to soak in a pickle
of salt and vinegar; put it into a stewpan, and let it be covered
with water; add a seasoning of whole pepper and
salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion. Let it simmer
very slowly as long as it will hang together, taking care to skim it well.
Strain the gravy, and add to it carrots previously boiled, and
cut into pieces an inch long; add also a few capers and a
mushroom, with a glass of wine and the juice of a lemon.
When the beef has been sufficiently stewed take it up, and set it for a
short time in a Dutch oven, and glaze it, or brown it with a salamander. 
 484.--SPICED BEEF. 
 A joint from the round, rump, or flank, from ten to fourteen pounds,
is the usual weight of the piece intended to be thus dressed. Make a mixture of
the following ingredients, and let them be well amalgamated; pound finely as
much mace as will quite fill a teaspoon, grind a nutmeg to
powder, and add it, also two spoonfuls of cloves, one-fourth of that
quantity of cayenne pepper, and half a pound of coarse brown
sugar; rub the beef well with this mixture for three days, turning
it each day once; add three-quarters of a pound of salt, and then
continue rubbing well each day, for ten days more; at the expiration of that
time dip it into some cold clear spring water, twice or thrice, secure
it into a handsome shape, put it into a stewpan with a quart of good beef
broth, let it come to a boil, skim as the scum rises, and as soon as it
boils put in three carrots cut in slices, a bundle of sweet
herbs, a little parsley, and an onion; stew gently four
hours. 
 If it is intended to serve this dish cold, let it remain until it is cool in
the liquor in which it was boiled, but take the precaution to put the
meat into a clean pan, and pour the liquor over it.   485.--A
PICKLE FOR BEEF. 
 To one gallon of water put two pounds and a half of common
salt, one ounce of saltpetre, half a pound of coarse sugar,
boil it for a quarter of an hour, and be particular while boiling to remove
every particle of scum while rising, that it may be as clear as possible, let
it be cold when poured upon the beef. If it is desired to make the
pickle last for a very long time, add a gallon of spring water to
the above quantity, which should, if for keeping, be also spring water,
add three ounces of saltpetre, two pounds of bay salt, and a
pound and a half of coarse brown sugar. Whatever joints are put into
this pickle, they should be kept closely covered down. Prepare thus the
beef for pickling, keep it as long as you can without taint, spread over
it coarse sugar, and let it remain for two days to drain. Rub the
beef thoroughly with the pickle, and let it remain  in it eight, ten, twelve, or fourteen days, according to its
size and quantity; a considerable quantity of beef may be pickled
together, indeed the closer it is packed the better, so that it is covered with
the pickle and kept tightly down; when they are taken out of the
pickle, lay some sticks across the pan and let them drip into it, when
as much has fallen from them as will, wipe them dry, and they may either be
cooked at once or dried; if the latter be determined upon, after having well
dried them, smoke eight hours over burnt sawdust and damp straw, or sew them in
a cloth and send them to the baker, and let them hang seven or eight days. Do
not, as in the other receipt, boil the pickle before using the first
time, but after it has been once used, and every succeeding time, observing
that it must be kept skimmed, and each time of boiling add a quart of
water and a couple of pounds of salt. This pickle will
answer equally well for hams or tongues.   486.--HUNG
BEEF 
 Take twelve to fourteen pounds of the flank of beef, throw over it a
handful of salt; let it drain twenty-four hours. Make a brine of
one pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre; let them be quite dry,
and pound them to a fine powder before using, a quarter of a pound of bay
salt and two ounces of coarse sugar. If it is intended to make
the beef red, add three grains of cochineal; rub the beef
with this brine for a week, and then turn it; let it remain two days,
and then rub it again for seven or eight days; then let it drain from the
pickle. Send it to the baker's to be smoked. When wanted for dressing,
put it into cold water more than enough to cover it, boil gradually
until enough, and put it under a heavy weight while hot. It may be served with
carrots and greens, or, if for grating, choose a lean piece, put it in
boiling water; keep it boiling rapidly; four pounds will take an
hour.   487.--BEEF HUNG. 
 The best piece is the navel piece, it must be hung up in a cellar until it
is a little damp, but not long enough to change, take it down and wash it well
in brown sugar and water, dry it with a cloth, cut it in two or
three pieces, take half a pound of brown sugar, two pounds of bay
salt dried and pounded small, six ounces of saltpetre dried and
beat fine, rub it well into the beef, then rub common salt over
it as much as will make it salt enough; let it lie together ten days,
changing the pieces from the bottom to the top; hang it where it may have the
warmth of the fire, but not too near; when it is dressed boil it in hay and
water until tender; it will keep two or three months; when mouldy dip it
in water.   488.--DUTCH HUNG BEEF. 
 Rub a lean piece of beef--about twelve pounds--with molasses,
and turn it frequently, in three days wipe it dry, salt it with a pound
of salt and an ounce of salt-petre in fine powder, rub well in,
turning every day for fourteen days, roll it as tightly as you can in a coarse
cloth, lay a heavy weight upon it, hang it to dry in the smoke from wood,
reversing it every day, boil in spring water, press it while hot and
grate or rice it to fancy.   489.--RUMP STEAK STEWED. 
 Cut a steak about an inch thick with a good bit of fat, fry it
over a brisk fire, place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a little good
stock, a little port wine, and some chopped mushrooms,
stew gently; when tender put into it some good brown sauce, shake it
gently about; dish it, and put scraped or grated horseradish on the top;
if for oysters or mushrooms, see those sauces; season with
salt, cayenne pepper, and sugar.    490.--RUMP STEAK PLAIN BROILED. 
 Cut your steak not so thick as for the former; have ready a good
clear fire, put your gridiron to get quite hot, then put on the steak at
full length, frequently stirring it with your steak tongs, a few minutes
according to taste will do it. place it on your dish, put a good slice of
butter rubbed all over it, and now pepper and salt it.
Horseradish on the top of it, and frequently sauces.   491.--BAKED
BEEF. 
 A Rump of twenty to twenty-five pounds weight.--Take two ounces each
of pepper and allspice; one ounce of pounded cloves, and
the same quantity of mace; rub this all over the joint, which should be
hung up for a fortnight or three weeks, according to the weather--taking care
to keep it dry, and to occasionally renew the seasoning. When ready for
baking, wash off the spice with port wine, and lard the
rump throughout--not in the common mode used by poulterers, but by
inserting large lardoons in different parts of the meat. Then put a
large quantity of suet, shred fine, both under and over it, and cover it
with coarse flour and water paste, between which and the
suet you may put a few bay-leaves or some sweet herbs. If eaten
hot, the dough, bay-leaves, and suet must all be taken off; the joint
basted, sprinkled with a little salt and flour, over which a
salamander should be passed; and served up with strong gravy or brown
sauce. If cold, leave on the dough till wanted.    Self-Basting Dutch Oven.  An illustration of barrel on its side with five hooks hanging from the top and two chimney pipes on the outside top.  

 It should be baked in a moderately-heated oven, and will take, according to
the size, from six to eight hours' baking. 
 
 A Round of Beef  may be dressed in the same
manner; but the bone should in that case be taken out, and the hole
filled up with forcemeat. The flap should be filled in like manner,
skewered, and tightly bound round with linen or strong tape, in which case the
dough and the larding may be omitted, though the latter will be found an
improvement. It should be always left until cold.   492.--BEEF BRAINS
FRIED. 
 Let your brains be properly marinaded, then leave them to drain; make
a preparation with warm water, a little butter, and salt,
some flour, and a spoonful of oil, and the whites of eggs
whipped to snow, mix all together till like batter; dip your brains into
this batter, and then fry them a nice brown color; when fried let them drain on
a dry cloth, garnish with fried parsley.   493.--BEEF BRAINS
À LA SAUCE PIQUANTE. 
 Cook your brains in a marinade; drain them, put them on a dish, and
pour a sauce piquante all over them.   494.--BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 
 Sprinkle some slices of cold boiled beef with pepper; fry them
with a bit of butter of a light brown; boil a cabbage, squeeze it
quite dry and chop it small; take the beef out of the frying-pan and lay
the cabbage in it; sprinkle a little salt and pepper over
it; keep the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes; lay the cabbage
in the middle of the dish and the beef around it.    495.--BUBBLE AND SQUEAK 
 Cut slices from a cold boiled round or rump of beef 5 let them be
fried quickly until brown, and put them into a dish to be kept hot. Clean the
pan from the fat 5 put into it greens and carrots previously
boiled and chopped small, or, instead of these, large onions sliced thin
and fried, though both the latter are sometimes omitted. Add a little
butter, pepper, and salt; make them very hot, and put them
round the beef with a little gravy. 
 Cold pork boiled is thought by some to be a better material for
bubble and squeak than beef, which is sometimes hard. In either
case the slices should be very thin, and lightly fried. 
 496.--OX-TAILS. 
 Cut the tails in pieces; lay them in a stewpan, with butter and a
large onion; set them over a smart fire to make them brown; peel
and boil a couple of dozen of button onions in about three pints of
water, for fifteen or twenty minutes; set them by and pour the liquor
they were boiled in upon the tails, adding sufficient boiling water to
cover them; put in six ounces of carrots, and eight of turnips,
cut into slices, or balls the size of nutmegs 3 put in the
carrots twenty minutes before the turnips. Be careful that they
are not stewed too fast or too much. When they are tender, pass the
gravy through a sieve; skim off the fat, and pay great attention
in doing so, as the fat rises while the tails are stewing. Keep the
meat and vegetables hot. Thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of
butter into a stewpan; when melted, stir in as much flour as will
stiffen it. Pour the gravy in by degrees, stirring it till it boils;
strain it through a sieve into a stewpan, and let it simmer gently till the
meat and vegetables are dished. Lay the tails round the dish, and the
vegetables in the middle; pour the gravy over; minced gherkins or
capers may be added. Pour boiling water over the onions to
warm them, and put them round the dish the last thing. 
 
 or: --Divide them at the joints, blanch, and parboil
them; put them into a stew-pan with just water or weak broth
enough to cover them; let them simmer over a gentle fire, and remove the scum
carefully as it rises; then put in an onion, a blade of mace, and
a little pepper and salt; put them on again to simmer, and when
sufficiently done add a spoonful of essence of anchovy and some
flour rolled in butter. This is an excellent and nourishing
dish.   497.--TRIPE. 
 Tripe may be dressed in several ways, but whatever mode may be
employed, it will always be found an improvement to soak it for a whole night
in milk. Some say, seven or eight days in salt and water. If
left in the milk until that gets sour, the acidity thus imparted to it
will render it still better. 
 Take two pounds of fresh tripe, cleaned and dressed by the
tripe-dresser; cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal
parts of milk and water; twenty minutes to half an hour will be
long enough. Boil in the same water which boils the tripe, four
large onions; the onions should be put on the fire at least half
an hour before the tripe is put in the stewpan, and then made into a
rich onion sauce, which serve with the tripe. 
 Tripe is cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, and fried in batter, and
served with melted butter. 
 Tripe is cut into slices; three eggs are beaten up with minced
parsley, sweet herbs, onions chopped exceedingly fine,
parsley, and mushrooms. The tripe is dipped into this
mixture, and fried in boiling lard. 
 Tripe may be cut into collops, covered with a mixture of
parsley, onions, and 
mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and fried in clarified or fresh
butter. Serve mushroom sauce with it. 
 Tripe can be stewed in gravy in which put parsley,
onions, and mushrooms, or in lieu of the latter, mushroom
ketchup. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter. When
the tripe is tender, it will be done. A lemon may be sent to table
with it.   498.--TO STEW OX-CHEEK. 
 Clean the head nicely, then soak it for some hours in cold
water; put it into a stewpan, and let it simmer gently till it is quite
tender; then take out the bones, and tie the meat up in a cloth;
put a weight upon it, and let it stand till the next day; make a
forcemeat of any white meat, and boil six eggs hard; cut
the cheek in slices; put some at the bottom of a dish, then a layer of
forcemeat, then one of the sliced eggs, another of meat,
and so on till the dish is full; season with pepper and salt, and
pour in as much of the gravy as the dish will hold; either stew it in
the usual way, or cover it with a coarse paste and send it to the oven
to be baked slowly. The paste to be removed before brought to table. 
 499.--BEEF TONGUE. 
 If it has been dried and smoked, before it is dressed it should be soaked
over-night; but if only pickled, a few hours will be sufficient. Put it into a
pot of cold water, and set it over a slow fire for an hour or two before it comes to a boil; then put it
aside, and keep it simmering for three and a half to four hours, according to
its size: you can ascertain when it is done by probing it with a skewer. Peel
it, trim the root, glaze it and before serving surround the root with a
paper frill, and stick a flower or two on the top. 

  Tongue Garnished.  An illustration of tongue garnished.  


 Its appearance, and its flavor, also, may be improved by rubbing it over,
when skinned, with yolk of egg, on which crumbs of bread and
finely minced sweet herbs may be strewed; then slightly basting it with
butter, and browning it with a salamander.   500.--TO STEW
TONGUE. 
 Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt
for a week, turning it every day; boil it tender enough to peel; when done,
stew it with a moderately strong gravy; season with soy,
mushroom-ketchup, cayenne pepper, pounded cloves, and
salt, if necessary. Serve with truffles, morels, and
mushrooms, stewed in gravy.   501.--AN EXCELLENT WAY OF
PREPARING TONGUES TO EAT COLD. 
 Season with common salt and salt-petre, brown sugar, a
little bay-salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and
allspice, in fine powder, for a fortnight; then take away the
pickle, put the tongue into a small pan, and lay some
butter on it; cover it with brown crust, and bake it slowly till so
tender that a straw will go through it; put it into a tin mould, and press it
well, laying in as much fat as possible. 
 The thin part of tongues, if hung up to dry, grates like hung
beef, and also makes a fine addition to the flavor of omelets. 
 502.--TO ROAST A BEEF TONGUE. 
 Take a fine large fresh tongue, scald it, and take off the
skin; cut it off at the root and trim it neatly; stick a few  cloves here and there in it, and put it in a
cradle-spit; sprinkle it with salt, and baste it well with
butter. Serve it with a good sauce in a sauceboat, made as
follows:--Put into a stewpan half a pint of port wine, with about half
the quantity of well seasoned gravy; reduce it to one-half 5 then stir
in a good piece of butter and a tablespoonful of flour; add a
squeeze of lemon; when the butter is melted and the sauce
done, place the tongue in a dish, and serve hot with the sauce
poured round. In Spain, the sauce is strongly impregnated with
saffron.   503.--FRESH BEEF TONGUE. 
 Take a green tongue, stick it with cloves, and boil it gently
for three hours; then brush it over with the yolk of an egg, dredge it
well with bread-crumbs, and roast it, basting it well with
butter. When dished, serve it with a little brown gravy flavored
with a glass of wine, and lay slices of currant-jelly round it. A
pickled tongue, well washed, may be dressed in the same way, and
beef-udders also.   504.--A FRESH NEAT'S TONGUE AND UDDER 
 May be roasted together in the manner thus described; but when ready to be
dished, instead of currant-jelly, put half a pint of gravy into a
saucepan, with the juice of a Seville orange, two lumps of sugar,
a glass of claret, and a piece of butter: toss the whole over the fire,
and serve it up with the tongue and udder, garnishing the dish
with slices of lemon. The udder should be stuck with
cloves, and both should be continually basted.   505.--BRISKET OF
BEEF, STEWED. 
 Take any quantity of brisket of beef required, say eight or ten
pounds, cover it with water, stew it tender, bone the beef
and skim off the fat, strain the gravy, add a glass of port
wine, flavor with spice tied in a bag. Have boiled vegetables ready;
cut them into squares, and garnish the beef from the gravy round
it, and serve.   506.--ENTREES 
 Are, in common terms, what are called made-dishes; of course, these are the
dishes upon which, in the high class of cookery, the talent of the cook is
displayed. Great care should be observed in dishing them up, for the eye is a
great assistance to the palate: it often happens that the carelessness of the
servant destroys the labors of the cook, by the manner in which the dish is
taken from the kitchen to the dining-room. In some measure to avoid that, Soyer
directs a small thin border of mashed potatoes, about half an inch wide and
a quarter of an inch deep, to be placed on the bottom of the dish, which keeps
each object in its place; they should always be served exceedingly hot. 
 507.--COW-HEELS. 
 Ox-feet, or Cow-heels, are not highly esteemed, but they
contain much nutriment, and may be dressed in the various ways already stated
for tripe, with which they are commonly boiled. They are frequently
eaten cold, with mustard and vinegar. 
 Soak them well; boil, and serve in a napkin, with thick melted
butter, a large spoonful of vinegar, and a little mustard
and salt. Or boil, and then stew them in a brown gravy. Or cut
the heel in four parts, dip each in egg, flour, and fry them in
butter. Or fry, and serve with onions fried and put round them:
sauce as above. 
 The water in which they are boiled will make equally good
jellies, either relishing or sweet, with that of calves'
feet, if duly prepared; and at a far less expense. This jelly
gives great additional  richness, likewise, to
soups and gravies.   508.--TO FRY OX-FEET, OR COW-HEEL. 
 After preparing them as above, cut them into small pieces; have ready some
bread finely crumbled, dip the pieces into the yolk of an egg
beaten up, and roll them in the bread-crumbs mixed with chopped
parsley, pepper, and salt; fry them in butter or
fresh lard, of a fine brown color.   509.--TO POT OX-FEET, OR
COW-HEEL. 
 Boil them in fresh water till the bones can be easily removed;
cut them into small pieces, add a little of the liquor, just enough to moisten
it, and mix with it a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and
salt, and a little pounded mace; put it into a mould and turn it
out when cold. It is eaten with vinegar and mustard. 
 510.--MARROW-BONES. 
 If too long to serve undivided, saw them in two; cover the open end with a
lump of paste and a cloth floured and tied close; the
paste must be removed before sent to table. Boil one and a half or two
hours according to the size; put a ruffle of paper round each, and serve
in a napkin, with very hot toast. The marrow is spread upon the
toast, and seasoned with pepper and salt.   511.--BOEUF
A-LA-MODE. 
 Cut out the bone from the beef; then stuff the orifice with
rich forcemeat, made with veal and oysters, and the crumb
of a roll steeped in milk. Half roast it, and before it is put into the
stewpan insert in the top dried and pickled mushrooms, adding
mushroom-powder in the orifices; then put in two quarts of gravy
made from the bones and trimmings, a large onion stuck with
cloves, and two carrots cut in slices. When the beef has
stewed till it is quite tender, strain and thicken the sauce; add to it
a glass of wine, mushrooms and oysters, and sippets of
fried paste; either the mushrooms or oysters may be
omitted, if the pure flavor should be more desirable: warm a few
pickles with the garnish and send it up very hot.   512.--BEEF
A-LA-MODE.--(a Philadelphia Receipt.) 
 Out the bone out of a round of fresh beef, and put into
several incisions a dressing made of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs,
and two small onions, chopped fine, with seasoning of salt,
pepper, mace, and butter. Lard the beef, and
fasten up the slits, and tie it firmly with tape. 
 Put into a kettle a pint and a half of water, with a few slices of
pork; and put in the beef, stuck with a few cloves; cover
closely, and bake it several hours. When it is cooked through, dish it and pour
over the gravy, which may be increased in quantity by the addition of a
little boiling water, and flour to thicken it, with a spoonful of
brown sugar, and a glass of wine. Serve this gravy in a
tureen, moistening the meat with it, and garnishing with sliced
carrots and beets, and parsley or celery. 
 513.--THE BATH RECEIPT. 
 Take three pounds of the rump, or any part of the beef which
will stew well; trim it nicely, and cut off all the fat. Chop all sorts
of sweet herbs together very finely, with a little shalot and a great
deal of spice, and put them into a saucer that has been rubbed with
garlic, and cover them with vinegar. Gut fat bacon into long
slips, dip it into the herbs and vinegar, and let the
herbs be very thick upon the bacon; lard the beef
regularly on both sides, if neces-sary, in order that it should be thorough-  ly flavored. Rub the beef over with the
remainder of the herbs and spice. Flour the meat,
add a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in
flour, and a pint of water. Bake the beef in an oven,
strain the gravy, which will scarcely require either thickening or
browning, and serve it up with pickles on the top. It is most excellent
when cold, but should be served up hot at first. The gravy may be boiled
to a glaze if necessary. It will require a good deal of spice, a
tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of white pepper, a
salt-spoonful of allspice, half the quantity of pounded
cloves, and a blade of mace pounded.   514.--FILLETS OF
BEEF. 
 Cut the inside of a sirloin or rump in slices half an inch
thick; trim them neat-ly; melt a little butter in a saute or
fry-ing-pan; season the fillets; fry them lightly; serve with tomato
sauce, sorrel, anchovy butter, or gherkin sauce. 
 515.--FILLET OF BEEF BRAISED. 
 Take the inside of a sirloin of beef, stuffed or plain, but rolled
together so as to bring the fat into the centre. Then strew the bottom
of the stewpan with a few slices of ham, in which a small quan-tity of
gravy has been put, just to pre-vent the bottom of the pan from burning;
and on this place the meat, covering it with chopped carrots,
celery, button onions, and a pickled chili, together with
a sliced gherkin, sweet herbs, salt, mace, and a
little allspice, and simmer until tender, then brown it before the fire
or with a salamander, skim and season the sauce, and send the
meat, sauce, and veg-etables up in the same dish. 
 516.--BEEFSTEAK A LA FRANCAISE 
 Must be cut either from the sirloin or some other prime part of the
beef, as rump steaks are not known in France. Pour over it two
large spoonfuls of the best Lucca oil, and let it remain all night; then
put it and the oil into a frying-pan, with some finely-chopped
parsley, pep-per, and salt; fry it until the gravy dries
up and it becomes rather brown. Pour the contents of the pan over the
steak as sauce. The steaks are usually garnished with
slices of fried potatoes. As butter is not known in the southern
states of Europe, oil is there constantly used in lieu of it, and this
Parisian practice is borrowed from those countries.   517.--BEEF IN A
MARINADE. 
 Out the inside of a sirloin in slices, put them into a marinade made
as follows:-- Take equal quantities of vinegar and water, slice
some carrots and onions, add some salt and a few
pepper-corns with a clove of garlic. Let all stew together till the
goodness be extracted from the vegetables, then strain it. and let it stand
till cold. Let the meat lie in this pickle for twenty-four hours
before it is dressed; then let it stew gently in a little good gravy
till quite tender. Add a wine-glassful of port wine, a
table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful of shalot
vinegar, and some butter rolled in flour; place the
meat neatly in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. 
 518.--BEEF A LA POLONAISE. 
 Take a few pounds of the best beef, without bones, and, after
having beaten it for some time with a rolling-pin, make in it deep incisions,
but without cutting the meat asunder. Mince some onions, mix them
with bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, and salt; fill
the incisions with this forcemeat, and skewer up the meat. Put it
with some butter into a stewpan, and stew it upon a moderate fire. It
should be served with brown sauce made from the gravy which is
drawn from the meat.    519.--A LA
HOUSSARD. 
 Take any piece of fresh beef, prepared as nearly as possible in the
same manner; but instead of forcemeat, fill the incisions with pledgets
of fat ham or bacon: sea-son with pepper, salt, and
onion; lay it in an iron stewpan that has a cover to fit quite close,
and set it by the side of the fire without water. Take care it does not
burn, but it must have a strong heat; in two or three hours it will be quite
tender, and then serve with its own gravy.   520.--BEEF A LA
MODE. 
 There are several methods of making this dish; the hash erroneously termed
alamode beef, sold at eating-houses, is a very different dish to the
true beef a la mode. The following is called the " old Bath "
receipt. 
 Take a quantity of the buttock, or the leg-of-mutton piece,
the clod, or where ex-pense is not an object, the rump of beef as lean
as possible; cut away the fat if there is any, make a mixed powder of
cloves, about twenty or thirty, the same quantity of mace, with
half an ounce of allspice, savory, parsley, a handful of
thyme, knotted marjoram, and all other sweet herbs chopped
very fine; mix them in a glass of vinegar. Take some fat bacon,
cut it into slices as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of
an inch in thickness, roll it well in the pow-dered spice and
"herbs, make incisions of the requisite depth, and insert the
bacon in the beef, which may be rubbed well over with what
remains of the powdered spice, &c., in the vinegar; then
dredge flour over the beef, place it in a baking dish with a lump
of butter rolled in flour, with a pint of water; bake it
in the oven, strain the gravy, and serve with pickles on the top;
if after being larded it should, instead of being baked, be put into the
stewpan, add to it as much water as will cover it, four onions
chopped fine, half a dozen cloves of garlic, as many bay leaves,
a few champignons, half a pint of ale, as much port wine; add
white pepper, cay-enne pepper, and salt, a teaspoonful of
pyroligneous acid; strew three parts of a pint of fine bread raspings
over it, cover down close and stew six or eight hours, according to the size of
the beef; when it has stewed sufficiently, take out the beef,
keep it hot over boiling water, strain the gravy, remove the
fat, champignons, &c.; boil up again, season to palate, pour the
gravy over the beef and send to table. 
 This is sometimes preferred cold, in which case serve it cut in slices, with
the gravy, which will be a jelly.   521.--BEEF A LA
MODE. (Soyer's.) 
 Have ready six pounds of rump of beef, cut into pieces two inches
square, each of which lard through with two or three strips of
bacon; have also two pounds of streaked bacon, which clear from
the rind, and cut into squares half the size of the beef, put the
whole into an earthen pan, with two calf's feet, (cut up small,)
half a pint of sherry, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch
of pars-ley, four onions, with a clove stuck in each, a
blade of mace, and half a pint of water, cover the pan as in the
last, and put it in a moderate oven for three hours; when done, do not remove
the lid until three parts cold, then take out the meat, lay some of the
beef at the bottom of a stewpan, (not too large.) then a little
bacon, then more beef, and so on alter-nately, press them lightly
together, pass the gravy through a hair sieve over, and leave it until
quite cold and set, when dip the stewpan into hot water, and turn it out
upon a dish to serve. The calf's feet may be made hot in a little
of the stock, to which add two pats of butter, with which you
have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, season with a little chopped
parsley and half a spoonful of vinegar, and serve as an entree.
The above is excellent either hot or cold.  
 522.--ALAMODE BEEF. (Kitchiner's Receipt.) 
 Take about eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, clod, or blade-bone of
beef, or like weight of veal; cut it into pieces of three or four
ounces each; put two or three ounces of beef drippings, and a couple of
large onions, into a large deep stewpan; as soon as it is hot,
flour the meat and put it into the stewpan, stirring it
constantly with a wooden spoon; when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge
it with flour and keep doing so till you have stirred in enough to
thicken it; then cover it with boiling water, added by degrees, and
stirring all together, (it will take about a gallon,) skim it when it boils,
and then put in one drachm of ground black pepper, two of
allspice, and four bay-leaves; set the pan by the side of the fire, and
let it stew very slowly about three hours; when the meat is tender, put
it into a tureen, and it is ready for the table. A nice salad may be served
with it.   528.--A FRICANDEAU OF BEEF. 
 Take a nice piece of lean beef; lard it with bacon very
closely; put it into a stewpan with a pint of broth, a glass of white
wine, a bundle of parsley, all sorts of sweet herbs, a
clove of garlic, a shalot or two, four cloves, pepper and
salt. When the meat is become tender, cover it close; skim the
sauce well, and strain it; set it on the fire, and let it boil till it
is reduced to a glaze. Glaze the lard-ed side with this, and serve the
meat on sorrel sauce.   524.--POTTED BEEF. 
 To a pound of common salt, put a quarter of an ounce of
saltpetre, and two ounces of coarse sugar, Rub three pounds of
lean beef with this, and let it remain in the brine fifty hours.
Drain and dry it, pepper it well with black pepper, put it into a
pan; cut half a pound of butter in slices, and lay round it; lay a
paste crust over it, and bake it very slowly for four hours and a half.
Let it get cold, and then cut off the meat, being careful to separate
the stringy pieces from it: pound it in a mortar, working up with it four
ounces of fresh butter, and some of the gravy from the
meat when baked, seasoned with ground allspice, a little
mace, and pepper. When the meat has been combined with the
butter and gravy, until it is worked into an even paste,
put it into jars, and cover with clarified butter. 
 If it is purposed to keep it long, cover it with bladder skin. The
beef may be potted without in the first instance being salted, but if it
is done it should have salt worked up with it, and be soon eaten after
potting. Some persons make their potted beef of meat that has been
previously cooked, but the above will be found to be the best receipt. 
 525.--COW-HEEL. 
 Having been thoroughly washed, scald-ed, and cleaned, cut them into pieces
about two inches long, and one wide; dip them into yolk of egg, cover
them with fine bread-crumbs mixed with parsley minced,
cayenne pepper, and salt, and fry them in boiling
butter.   526.--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Having cleaned the feet, bone them, boil them, and stew them
in a rich brown gravy; serve them with Indian pickle. Or, if
plainly cooked, boil until enough; then serve them on a napkin, with melted
butter, flavored with a spoonful of vinegar, and one of made
mustard. Lemon pickle may be served with them.   527.--BEEF
SAUSAGES. 
 To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound and a half of
suet, and chop very finely; season with sage in powder,  allspice, pepper, and salt;
have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into them. 
 528.--BEEF HEART. 
 Wash it very carefully, stuff it the same as you would a hare 5 roast
or bake it, and serve with a rich gravy and currant jelly sauce,
hash with the same and port wine.   529.--BEEF HEART ROASTED. 
 Wash thoroughly, stuff with force-meat, send it to table as hot as it
is possible with currant jelly sauce; it will take about forty minutes
roasting, but this depends upon the fire.   530.--BEEF HEART. 
 Let it be thoroughly well cooked, and the skin removed. Wipe it dry
with a clean cloth; stuff it with veal stuffing; roast two hours and a
quarter. Make a brown gravy, as for hare; and serve with the
gravy and currant jelly. 
 The most pleasant way to the palate of dressing this dish, is to roast the
heart for rather less than two hours, let it get cold, cut it in pieces,
and jug it the same as hare.   531.--STEWED RUMP of BEEF. 
 Half roast the beef; then place it in the stewpan, add three pints or
two quarts of water, according to the weight of the joint, two
wine glasses of vinegar, three of red wine, more if expense be
not considered, a bottle not being too much; cider is sometimes used,
but the meat may be stewed without it; add three spoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, a dessert-spoonful
of lemon pickle, cayenne pepper, and salt, cover the
stewpan close down, stew gently for two hours, or three if the rump of
beef be large, take it up and place it in the dish in which it is to be
served, keeping it hot in the manner previously prescribed; remove the scum
from the gravy in which it has been stewed, and strain it; add half a
pint of mushrooms, three table-spoonfuls of port wine, a
spoonful of Harvey's sauce, thicken with flour and butter,
pour over the beef, garnish with pickles, forcemeat balls,
and horseradish.   532.--HUNTER'S BEEF. 
 Hang for three days a round of beef of twenty pounds; at the
expiration of that time rub it with brine composed of three ounces of
saltpetre, twelve ounces of salt, a spoonful of allspice,
one of black pepper, an ounce of coarse brown sugar; before it is
rubbed with this mix-ture it must be boned, and it must be rubbed well every
day, turning for a fortnight. When it is to be dressed put it into a stewpan,
pour in a pint of water, shred a quantity of mutton suet, cover
the meat with it, lay over it a thick crust, attaching it round the edge
of the pan, tie over securely with paper, and bake for six hours in an
oven moderately heat-ed; take away the paper and crust, chop some
parsley very fine, sprinkle it over the beef, and serve it
cold. 
 It will keep some time; the gravy will make a good flavoring for
soups.   533.--MINCED BEEF WITH CUCUMBERS. 
 Take a fine rump-steak undressed, and with a sharp knife shred it
very fine. Put it into a stewpan with a little clari-fied butter and
some salt; stir it over a quick fire for a few minutes, then add half a
pint of good beef gravy; let it boil gently till it becomes of a proper
thick-ness. Out two fine cucumbers in slices the thickness of a
crown-piece, and put them with an onion sliced in a stewpan with some
clarified butter, a little vinegar, a lump of sugar, and
fry them of a fine brown color; put them into a stewpan  with some plain sauce; let it simmer gently till
sufficiently done; then lay the mince in the dish, and pour the cucumbers over
it; thicken the sauce with a little flour and butter; add
the squeeze of a lemon just before serving.   534.--BEEF COLLOPS. 
 Out the inside of a sirloin, or any other convenient piece, into
circular shapes, the size and thickness of a half-crown, flour and fry
them; sprinkle with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and
shalot; make a little gravy in the pan; send to table with
gherkin or tomato sauce.   SOYER'S RECEIPTS.  535.--BUBBLE AND
SQUEAK. 
 I am certain you must know, as well as myself, our hereditary dish called
bub-ble and squeak; but, like the prepara-tion of other things, there is a good
way and a bad; and, as you prefer the former to the latter, proceed as
follows:--Boil a few greens, or a savoy cabbage (which has been
previously well washed), in plain water until tender, which then drain
quite dry in a colander or sieve, put it upon a trencher, and chop it rather
fine with a knife; then for a pound of salt beef you have in slices, put
nearly a quarter of a pound of butter into a fry-ing-pan, in which saute
the beef gently but not too dry; when done, keep it hot, put the
cabbage in the frying-pan, season with a little salt and
pepper, and when hot through, dress it upon a dish, lay the beef
over, and serve. Endive or large cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of
cabbage, but care must be taken to drain off all the water. 
 536.--BROILED B0NES. 
 Divide them, rub with mustard, pep-per, and salt, and broil
over a clear fire; serve with fried potatoes; and a little gravy may
be added.   537.--TRIPE, LYONS FASHION. 
 When there is any remaining from a previous day, dry it on a clean cloth;
cut them into pieces an inch square; put into an omelette or saute pan one or
two ounces of butter, according to the quantity; slice thin a large
onion, which fry in the pan; then add the tripe, saute them for
five minutes, season with salt, pepper, and a spoonful of
vinegar; serve very hot.   538.--OX TAILS A LA JARDINIERE. 
 Cut and cook two ox tails as directed for soup, but just before they
are done, skim well, and take out the pieces of tails, which put upon a dish;
then in another stewpan put two ounces of butter, to which, when melted, add
three ounces of flour, stirring it over the fire until forming a
brownish roux (thickening), then mix by degrees two quarts of the stock
the tails were boiled in, and boil all together ten minutes; then put in the
tails, with one carrot and two tur-nips (cut into small dice, or any
other shape, with a vegetable cutter), and about thirty button onions;
let the whole sim-mer very gently upon the corner of the fire, keeping it
well skimmed, until the vegetables are tender, and the sauce
sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon; dress the meat
upon a dish, re-duce the sauce, which pour over and serve. 
 539.--OX TAILS AU GRATIN. 
 Cook two ox tails as before, and when cold, dry them upon a cloth,
season with pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs well
beaten upon a plate, into which dip each piece singly, afterwards throwing them
into a dish of bread-crumbs, to cover 
every part, then beat them lightly with a knife, and again egg and
bread-crumb them, broil them upon a gridiron, or place them in a very
hot oven until of a brownish color, when serve with any sauce you may
fancy, or a little plain gravy.   540.--OX HEART. 
 This dish, although not very recherche, is a good family one, and remarkable
for its cheapness. Put it into lukewarm wa-ter, one hour to disgorge; then wipe
it well with a cloth, and stuff the interior with a highly seasoned veal
stuffing; tie it up in paper, and pass a small spit through the
sides; set it before a good fire for about two hours to roast, keep-ing it well
basted--being almost deprived of fat, basting is thus required; when
done, take off the paper, and serve with any sharp sauce, or a
little plain gravy. Two hours will be sufficient to roast a large
heart; but if smaller of course less time in proportion would be
required. I have also stuffed a heart with sage and onion,
and even ventured the apple sauce; both succeeded admirably, and it can
be baked as well as roasted. 
 I remember, when in business, upon one occasion; having a few friends pop in
unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon a Saturday (which is a day I always
contrive to keep my larder as short as possible), and having nothing but a
heart as a meal to give them, I immediately gave orders to the cook to
cut it into slices half an inch thick 5 dip each piece in flour, and
afterwards egg and bread-crumb them; then to put four spoonfuls
of oil in the frying-pan, lay part of the pieces in, and saut6 of a nice
color, then to keep them hot in a dish, and saute the remainder; and when all
done, to pour off part of the oil; put a teaspoonful of flour in
the pan, mixing it with the remaining oil and gravy, then pouring
in a gill of water, season with a little pepper and salt,
four spoonfuls of the vinegar from piccalilly, and a little of the
pickle finely chopped; boil the whole a minute; pour over the
heart, and serve very hot. It pleased very much, and they made a hearty
meal from it; and I have since had some with a little plain gravy, and
broiled bacon: in both instances it was very good.   541.--POTATO
SANDWICHES. 
 Saute the slices of beef as directed for bubble and squeak, cover one
side of each piece with mashed potatoes a quarter of an inch in thickness,
egg and bread-crumb over, then proceed the same with the other
sides; fry in hot fat of a light brown color, as you would a
sole, and serve. Any kind of fresh meat may be used the same
way.   542.--FILLET OF BEEF SAUTE 
 After having cut the fillet in slices, put two ounces of butter into
a clean frying-pan, which set upon the fire, and when melted, lay in the
meat, seasoned with a salt-spoonful of salt, and half that
quantity of pepper to each piece; turn them over three or four times
whilst cook-ing, and, when done, dress upon your dish, with either
anchovy or maitre d'hotel butter.   543.--ANOTHER METHOD. 
 When the fillets are dished up, put a table-spoonful of chopped
onions into the pan they were cooked in, which cook for about a minute,
but not letting them burn, then pour off part of the fat, if too much,
and add two teaspoonfuls of flour; stir with a wooden spoon until
becoming brownish, then add nearly a pint of water, a table-spoonful of
vinegar, and a few drops of browning; let it boil a few minutes,
seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and sugar;
when of the consistency of a thin sauce, pour over the fillets and
serve. A few chopped pickles  of any
description (but not too hot) might be introduced, but then half the quantity
of vinegar would be sufficient. A spoonful of Harvey's sauce may
be added, and a little glaze improves it. Mutton, lamb, or
pork-chops, or veal-cutlets, may be dressed in a similar
manner.   544.--MINCED BEEF. 
 Cut a pound and a half of lean cooked beef into very small dice,
which put upon a plate; in a stewpan put a good teaspoonful of finely chopped
onions, with a piece of butter of the size of a walnut,
which stir over the fire until the onions become lightly browned, when
stir in half a table-spoonful of flour, with which mix by degrees half a
pint of broth (or water) to which you have added a few drops of
browning and a teaspoonful of vinegar; let it boil five minutes,
stirring it the whole time, then throw in the meat, season rather highly
with a little pepper and salt, and, when hot, pour it into a deep
dish, and serve with sippets of toasted bread round, or poached
eggs on it.   545.--CROQUETTES OF BEEF. 
 Proceed precisely as in the last, but omitting the vinegar; when
done, stir in two yolks of eggs quickly, stir another minute over the
fire, then pour it upon a dish until cold 5 have a couple of eggs well
beaten upon a plate, also some bread-crumbs in a separate dish, then
divide the preparation into about a dozen pieces, which roll up into round
balls, or any other shape, and throw them into the bread-crumbs, move
them over until well covered, then roll them into the egg, then the
bread-crumbs again, from which take them gently, patting the surface
lightly with a knife, put them into very hot lard or fat to fry
of a yellowish-brown color, being careful not to break them whilst frying; when
done, drain them upon a cloth, and serve either upon a napkin, or with fried
parsley.   546.--A FAMILY FRENCH SALAD FOR THE SUMMER. 
 Cut up a pound of cold beef into thin slices, which put into a
salad-bowl, with about half a pound of white fresh lettuce, cut
into pieces similar to the beef, season over with a good teaspoonful of
salt, half that quantity of pepper, two spoonfuls of
vinegar, and five of good salad oil, stir all together lightly
with a fork and spoon, and when well mixed it is ready to serve. 
 For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be used, or, if in season, a little
endive (well washed), or a little celery, or a few gher-kins; also, to
vary the seasoning, a little chopped tarragon and chervil,
chopped eschalots, or a little scraped garlic, if ap-proved of,
but all in proportion, and used with moderation. White haricot beans
are also excellent with it. Remains of cold veal, mutton, or
lamb may be dress-ed the same way.   547.--POTATOES AND MEAT
SALAD. 
 Proceed as in the last, but omitting the lettuce; if any cold
potatoes remain from a previous dinner, peel and cut them in halves if
small, but in quarters if large, and then into pieces the size of a shilling,
but four times the thickness; put them into a salad-bowl with the meat,
seasoning as before, but using more oil and vinegar, and
adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. A small quantity of any
description of pickles might be added to this salad, as also some
ancho-vies or olives. The remains of any fowls or turkey
may be mixed in salads, but according to our habits, many persons would fancy
they were not nutritious; of that I can assure them to the contrary. 
 The quantity of the meat and vege- 
table should pretty equally balance with each other; after such a meal, a man's
appetite is perfectly satisfied, and he is ready for an afternoon's work if
required. It also does not require the aid of any fire, which we so
ungratefully abhor in hot weather. Mr. B. very much approves of this dish once
a week in summer   548.--OX KIDNEYS. 
 Out a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices, each being about the size of
a half crown piece, but double the thickness (avoiding the white part,
or root, which is tough and indigestible), then put a quarter of a pound of
butter into a stewpan upon the fire, and when very hot but not black,
put in the pieces of kidney, stirring them round with a wooden spoon
three min-utes over a brisk fire; then add for each pound weight of
kidney, half a table-spoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of
salt, half that quantity of pepper, and a little sugar,
moisten with a gill of water and half a glass of sherry, add a
little browning, if handy, and let simmer gently for five minutes, stirring
them round occasionally 5 if too thick, add a few drops more water, the
same should be sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, pour them
out upon your dish, and serve very hot. Broth might be used instead of
water if conve-nient, but then the seasoning should be a little
diminished, a little chopped escha-lot, parsley, or a few
mushrooms, would be an improvement. 
 By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in three slices, it might be
broiled or sau-teed; if for gentlemen season rather highly, but if ladies are
to be the par-takers, season more moderately; a little gravy may be
served with it, to which you have added at little ketchup; the root of
the kidney must not be cut away in this case, although not eatable.
Ox- kidneys are also an excellent addition to beef-steak
puddings and pies.   549.--OX-FEET OR COW-HEELS 
 Are very nutritious, especially when well boiled: they may be served in
either of the methods directed for tripe, or with a plain
parsley-and-butter sauce, to which, for a change, the juice of
a lemon or a drop of vinegar may be added. Should any be left from
the first day's dinner it may be served a la Lyonnaise, as directed for cold
tripe.   550.--REMAINS OF OX-TONGUE. 
 The remains of a tongue from a pre-vious dinner may be again served
thus:--Cut it into thin slices, put a small piece of butter into a
frying-pan, lay the pieces of tongue over, which warm a few min-utes in
a saute-pan, and serve with veal or fowl if any; when at home
alone, I frequently have it with mashed potatoes under it; it makes a very
good dish for luncheon. The pieces of tongue might also be egged and
bread-crumbed pre-vious to cooking as above, and served with a plain
gravy, or any sharp sauce, (See SAUCES.) Or should you have any
tongue, and veal, and beef remaining, sprinkle a little
chopped shalots at the bottom of a pie-dish, lay a layer of meat over,
season with a little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley,
then a layer of the tongue; have some yellowish crusts of bread
grated, a teaspoonful of which sprinkle over the tongue, then again a
layer of the meat, proceeding thus until the dish is nearly full, when
sprinkle more of the brown bread-crumbs over the top, placing a small
piece of butter here and there; pour in two wine-glass-fuls of
water, set it in a warm oven half an hour, and serve very hot. Or
instead of bread-crumbs, make a little good mashed potato, which
spread over it smoothly with a spoon or knife, bake half an hour in a warm
oven, and serve.  
 Should the remains of a tongue be but small, and if well pickled and
boiled, the root and all would be excellent in any kind of beef,
lamb, mutton, veal, or pork, hashed, or in pies or
puddings made from these meats.   551.--REMAINS OF SALT BEEF. 
 The remains of salt beef are very ex-cellent served in the few
following ways, no matter from what joint, or from what part of the joint: Cut
as large and thin slices as possible, dip each slice into some vinegar
from mixed pickles, previously poured upon a plate in small quantities;
lay about a pound of the meat thus pre-pared upon a flat dish, pour a
wine-glass-ful of water over, warm it through in the oven, or
before a slow fire, and serve. Another way is, after having dipped the
beef in the vinegar, roll them in flour, and proceed as
above, adding double the quantity of water. Another way is to saute the
slices with a little butter in a frying-pan, have ready some nice mashed
potatoes very hot, lay the beef over, and serve.   552.--COLD
BEEF. 
 If any be left from a previous dinner, put it in a dish, placing the
meat in the centre, rather higher, cover over with some delicate mashed
potatoes, about two inches in thickness, to form a dome, rub some egg
over with a paste-brush, and sprinkle crumbs of bread (either
grated or otherwise) upon the top, and set it in the oven until well browned,
when serve.   553.--BEEF BROTH. 
 Take a leg of beef, wash it clean, crack the bone in two or
three parts, put it into a pot with a gallon of water, skim it well,
then put two or three blades of mace in a little bundle of
parsley, and a crust of bread, let it boil till the beef
is quite tender, toast some bread, cut it into dice, put them
into a tureen, lay in the meat, and pour the soup over it. 
 554.--MARROW BONES. 
 They must be sawn into convenient sizes; cover the ends with a little dough
made of flour and water, and tie them in a floured cloth,
boil them an hour and a half, serve on a napkin with dry toast. 
 555.--BAKED MARROW BONES. 
 The bones should be prepared as above and laid in a deep dish, then
put into an oven and bake gently for two hours. They are sometimes cooked in
batter, but if so, the marrow should be cleared from the bones
and put in buttered cases made of clean foolscap paper; let them lie in
the batter and serve with them in it; when the batter is baked the
marrow will be also done.   556.--CURRIED BEEF, MADRAS WAY. 
 Take about two ounces of butter, and place it in a saucepan, with two
small onions cut up into slices, and let them fry until they are of a
light brown; then add a table-spoonful and a half of curry powder, and
mix it up well. Now put in the beef cut into pieces about an inch
square; pour in from a quarter to a third of a pint of milk, and let it
simmer for thirty minutes; then take it off. and place in a dish, with a little
lemon juice. Whilst cooking stir constantly, to prevent it burning. Send
to table with a wall of mashed potatoes or boiled rice round it. 
 It greatly improves any curry to add with the milk a quarter
of a cocoa-nut, scraped very small, and squeezed through muslin with a
little water; this softens the taste of the curry, and, indeed,
no curry should be made without it.   557.--BEEF PALATES. 
 Simmer them in water several hours, till they will peel; then cut the
palates into slices, or leave them whole, as you 
choose, and stew them in a rich gravy till quite tender. Before you
serve, sea-son them with cayenne, salt, and ketchup. If
the gravy was drawn clear, give it a boil with some butter and
flour. If to be served white, boil them in milk, and stew
them in fricassee-sauce; adding cream, butter,
flour, and mushroom powder, and a little pounded
mace.   558.--PRESSED BEEF. 
 Procure a piece of brisket of beef, cut off the bones, and
salt it, adding a little sal prunella to the brine and a
little spice; let the beef remain in pickle rather better
than a week; when ready to cook, roll it round, tie it in a cloth, and let it
simmer gently in plenty of water about seven hours if a whole one, but
four hours if only the thin end; when done take it up, remove the string, and
tie the cloth at each end, put it upon a dish with another dish over, upon
which place half a hundred weight, leaving it until quite cold, then take the
meat from the cloth, trim and glaze it lightly, and serve gar-nished
with a few sprigs of fresh parsley.   559.--PICKLE FOR
BEEF A LA GARRICK. 
 Take twenty pounds of salt, three-quarters of a pound of
saltpetre, four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist
sugar, two cloves of garlic, with which rub the meat well,
and leave it rather more than a week, rubbing and turning it over every
day. 
 This pickle is adapted for any thing that is required red. 
 560.--SPICED BEEF. 
 Procure a piece of thin flank of beef about ten pounds in weight,
which salt as the last for about a week; when ready split it open with a
knife and lay it out flat upon a dresser, having previously prepared six
onions chopped very fine, with about ten sprigs of parsley, and
the leaves of ten sprigs of thyme, the same of marjoram, two
ounces of mixed spice, (without cinnamon,) and half an ounce of
black pepper, mix all together, spread half upon the beef as it
lays before you, then fold it over to its original shape, lay on the remainder
of the preparation, roll it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and serve as
directed in the last article.   561.--TO FRICASSEE COLD ROAST BEEF. 
 Out the beef into slices, which should be very thin, put it with some
strong broth into a stewpan, add parsley chopped small, an
onion scored, and a piece of butter, simmer fifteen minutes, add
a glass of port wine, a teaspoonful of pyro-ligneous acid, and the
yolk of a couple of eggs; mix well, stew quickly, pot the dish,
rub it with a shalot, pour fricassee into it, and serve.   562.--BEEF
FRICANDEAU. 
 Take a piece of beef as lean as you can obtain it, lard it
well over on one side with pieces of bacon. Place in a stewpan an
eschalot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a faggot of parsley, a
little cloves, three parts of a quart of good broth, one glass of
sherry, and pepper and salt to palate. A clove of
garlic may be added to the eschalot if it is not found of sufficient
strength to flavor it without. Put on the meat, and stew until tender,
take out the gravy, keep the meat covered down close, skim and
strain the sauce, boil it until reduced to a glaze. Glaze the
beef with it on the side larded, and serve with sauce piquante,
or sauce sorrel.   563.--STRASBURG- POTTED MEAT. 
 Take a pound and a half of the rump of beef, cut into dice, and put
into an earthen jar, with a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom,
tie the jar close up with paper, and set over a pot to boil; when nearly
done, add cloves, mace, all- 
spice, nutmeg, salt, and cayenne pepper to taste;
then boil till tender, and let it get cold. Pound the meat, with four
anchovies washed and boned, add a quar-ter of a pound of oiled
butter, work it well together with the gravy, warm a little, and add
cochineal to color. Then press into small pots, and pour melted mutton
suet over the top of each.   564.--A CULLIS. 
 You must take meat according to the number of guests; if ten or
twelve, a leg of veal and a ham will be necessary, with all the
fat, skin, and outside cut off; cut the leg of veal into
pieces about three or four inches thick each way, place them in a stewpan, and
then the slices of ham, two carrots, and an onion cut in
two, cover it close, let it stew gently at first, and as it begins to brown,
take off the cover and turn it to color on all sides the same, but take care
not to burn the meat; when it has a pretty brown color, moisten your
cullis with broth made of beef or other meat, season the
cullis with a little sweet basil, some cloves, and a little
gar-lic; pare a lemon, cut it in slices and put it into the cullis with
some mushrooms. Put into a stewpan a good lump of but-ter, and set it
over a slow fire; put into it two or three handfuls of flour, stir it
with a wooden ladle, and let it take a color; if the cullis be pretty brown you
must put in some flour, the flour being brown with the cullis,
pour it gently into the cullis, keeping it stirring with a wooden ladle, then
let the cullis stew softly and skim off all the fat; put in two glasses
of champagne or other white wine, but take care to keep the
cullis very thin, so that you may take the fat well off and clarify it;
you must clarify it by putting it into a stove that draws well, cover it close
and let it boil without uncovering until it boils over, then un-cover and take
off the fat that is round the stewpan, then wipe it off the cover also
and cover it again; when the cullis is done take out the meat and strain
the cullis through a silken strainer; this cul lis is for all sorts of ragouts,
fowls, pies, and tureens.   565.--BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. (New Receipt.) 
 Cut into pieces, convenient for frying, cold, roast or boiled beef;
pepper, salt, and fry them; when done, lay them on a hot drainer,
and while the meat is drain-ing from the fat used in frying them,
have in readiness a cabbage already boiled in two waters; chop it small,
and put it in the frying-pan with some butter, add a little
pepper and salt, keep stirring it, that all of it may be equally
done. When taken from the fire, sprinkle over the cabbage a very little
vinegar, only enough to give it a slight acid taste. Place the
cabbage in the centre of the dish; and arrange the slices of meat
neatly around it.   566.--LOBSCOUS. 
 Mince, not too finely, some cold roast beef or mutton. Chop
the bones, and put them in a saucepan with six potatoes peeled and
sliced, one onion, also sliced, some pepper and salt; of
these make a gravy. When the potatoes are completely incorporated
with the gravy, take out the bones, and put in the meat;
stew the whole together for an hour before it is to be served. 
 567.--BEEF RISSOLES. 
 Mince and season cold beef, and flavor it with mushroom or
walnut ketchup. Make of beef dripping a very thin paste,
roll it out in thin pieces about four inches square; enclose in each piece some
of the mince, in the same way as for puffs, cut-ting each neatly all round; fry
them in dripping of a very light brown. The paste can scarcely be rolled
out too thin.    SEA COOKERY.   568.--FIRST WATCH
STEW. 
 Cut pieces of salt beef, and pork into dice, put them into a
stewpan with six whole peppercorns, two blades of mace, a few
cloves, a teaspoonful of celery seeds, and a faggot of
dried sweet herbs; cover with water, and stew gently for an
hour, then add fragments of carrots, turnips, parsley, or any
other vegetables at hand, with two sliced onions, and some
vinegar to flavor; thicken with flour, or rice, remove the
herbs and pour into the dish with toasted bread, or freshly baked
biscuit broken small, and serve hot. When they can be procured, a few
pota-toes improve it very much.   569.--SEA PIE. 
 Make a thick pudding crust, line a dish with it, or what is better, a cake
tin, put a layer of sliced onions, then a layer of salt beef cut
in slices, a layer of sliced potatoes, a layer of pork, and another
of onions; strew pepper over all, cover with a crust, and tie
down tightly with a cloth previously dipped in boiling water and
floured. Boil for two hours, and serve hot in a dish.   VEAL. 
 THE failing of this meat is its tendency to turn; should it show any
symptoms of doing this, put it into scalding water and let it boil for
seven or eight minutes, with some pieces of charcoal affixed; plunge it
into cold water immediately after taking it out of the hot, and put it
into the coolest place you have at command; the skirt from the breast,
and the pipe from the loin should always be removed in hot weather. 
 Veal of about two or three months old is the best; the flesh ought to
be white, approaching to pink, and the fat firm; it is cut up the
same as mutton, except that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is cut
straight, leaving the aitch-bone on it, which may be either dressed on
the loin or separate. The fore-quarter consists of the shoulder,
neck, and breast. The hind-quarter, of the knuckle, leg,
fillet, and the loin. The head and pluck consist of the
heart, liver, nuts, skirts, melt, and the heart,
throat, and sweetbread. 
 The bull-calf is the best; the flesh is firmer grained or redder, and
the fat more curdled than the cow-calf, which latter is in
general preferred, being more delicate and better adapted for made dishes, as
having the udder. To keep veal, we have to observe--the first
part that turns bad of a leg of veal is where the udder is
skewered back. The skewer should be taken out, and both that and the whole of
the meat wiped every day; by which means it will keep good three or four
days in hot weather, if the larder be a good one. Take care to cut out the pipe
that runs along the chine of a loin, as you do of beef, to hinder
it from tainting. The skirt of the breast is likewise to be taken off.
and the inside wiped and scraped, and sprinkled with a little salt. 
 If veal is in danger of not keeping, wash it thoroughly, and boil the
joint ten minutes, putting it into the pot when the water is boiling
hot; then put it into a very cool larder, or plunge it into cold water
till cool, and then wipe and put it by. If in the least tainted, it can-not be
recovered, as brown meats are, by the use of charcoal or
pyroligneous acid.   570.--VEAL--THE FILLET. 
 The fillet derives much of its pleasant flavor from being stuffed.
Veal in it-sel being nearly tasteless, the stuffing should be
placed in the hollow place from whence the bone is extracted, and  the joint should be roasted a beautiful brown; it
should be roasted gradually, as the meat being solid will require to be
thoroughly done through without burning the outside; like pork, it is
sufficiently indigestible without being sent to table and eaten half cooked; a
dish of boiled bacon or ham should accompany it to table, a
lemon also. 
 In roasting veal, care must be taken that it is not at first placed
too near the fire; the fat of a loin, one of the most delicate joints of
veal, should be covered with greased paper; a fillet also, should
have on the caul until nearly done enough: the shoulder should be thorough-ly
boiled; when nearly done dredge with flour, and produce a fine
froth.   571.--FILLET OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 Bind it round with tape, put it in a floured cloth and in cold
water, boil very gently two hours and a half, or if sim-mered, which is
perhaps the better way, four hours will be taken; it may be sent to table in
bechamel or with oyster sauce. 
 Care should be taken to keep it as white as possible. 
 572.--FILLET OF VEAL ROASTED. 
 Take out the bone, fill the space with a fine stuffing, and
let the fat be skewered quite round; stuff it also well under the
skin with bread, sage, chopped onions and
parsley, as much depends on the quan-tity and flavor of the
stuffing, and send the large side uppermost. Put a paper over the
fat; and take care to allow a sufficient time for roasting; put it a
good distance from the fire, as the meat is very solid, and must be so
thoroughly done as not to leave the least appearance of red gravy; serve
it with melted butter poured over, and gravy round. Ham or
bacon should be served with it, and fresh cucumbers if in
season. 
 Although considered very indigestible, it is a favorite joint and generally
roast-ed, although it may be easily divided into three parts and each dressed
sepa-rately; that piece known in a " round of beef" as the " silver
side," being roasted, and the remaining two stewed in different ways. 
 In Paris, a longe de veau is cut some-what in the shape of a haunch of
mutton, with the fillet and part of the loin joined together. 
 573.--TO ROAST 
 A fillet of veal, it should be stuffed with the following
ingredients: thyme, marjoram, parsley, savory,
finely minced lemon-peel, mace, pepper, nutmeg,
with bread-crumbs; to which add two eggs, and four ounces of
marrow-suet: lay this stuffing in the udder, and, if any
remain, in such holes as you think proper made in the fleshy part. Serve with
melted butter, and garnish with the lemon-peel sliced. 
 574.--FILLET OF VEAL BOILED. (English.) 
 Choose a small delicate fillet for this purpose; prepare as for roasting, or
stuff it with an oyster forcemeat; bind it round with a tape; after
having washed it thoroughly, cover it with milk and water in
equal quantities, and let it boil very gently three and a half or four hours,
keeping it carefully skimmed. Send it to table with a rich white sauce,
or, if stuffed with oysters, a tureen of oyster sauce; garnish
with stewed celery and slices of bacon. A boiled tongue
should be served with it.   575.--LOIN of VEAL ROASTED. 
 Take a loin of veal; run a lark-spit along the
chine-bones; then tie the ends of the lark-spit on the usual
spit, draw-ing down the flap over the kidney. Cover it well with
buttered paper, and tie it up  carefully;
let it roast gently for three hours. When about to serve, remove the
paper, sprinkle well with salt, dredge it with flour, and
finish basting with a small piece of fresh butter. 
 This joint is frequently divided; the kidney end and the chump. The
kidney end sent up with a toast under the fat; the chump
end should be stuffed like the fillet, or sent up with balls of stuffing
in the dish; pour melted butter over the joint, and gravy round.
It also forms an excellent stew if served up in winter with rice, and in
summer with green peas.   576.--BREAST of VEAL. 
 Cover it with the caul, and if you re-tain the sweetbread, skewer it
to the back, but take off the caul when the meat is nearly done; it will
take two and a half to three hours roasting. 
 
 Or: --Remove the tendons, and insert in their place a
stuffing; then roast as before. 
 
 Or: --Raise the skin, and force in as much
stuffing as possible; skewer it up; this will give a very good flavor to
the joint.    A Breast of Veal Roasted.  An illustration of a piece of meat on platter with a diagram on it.     577.--TO STEW. 
 Cut a breast, or a portion, in pieces; fry them with a little
butter, an onion and a cabbage-lettuce shred small; when
browned, add a little flour, shake it well together; then add a small
quantity of broth or water; let it stew gently; when nearly done,
throw in green peas suffi-cient for the dish; when the peas are
done, add a little pounded sugar, pepper, and salt. It may
require a little more thickening, in which case knead a little flour and
butter together.   578.--LOIN of VEAL BOILED. 
 Take a loin about eight pounds, skewer down the flap without
disturbing the kidney, put the loin into a kettle with enough
cold water to cover it, let it come gradually to a boil (it cannot boil
too slowly), continue for two hours and a quarter, but it must boil; remove the
scum as it rises, send it to table in bechamel, or with parsley and
melted butter.   579.--KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 
 Get a knuckle of a leg of veal, saw it in three parts, but not to
separate it, scald it, and put it for a few minutes in cold water, then
place it in a stewpan with some good second stock, an onion or
two, a faggot of herbs, a few sprigs of parsley, a carrot,
a turnip, and a head of celery, a blade of mace, a slice
of raw ham, fat and lean; stew it for several hours, until the
gristle is soft, take out the veal, cover it over to keep it
white; strain the liquor, wash a pound of rice and boil it in
this liquor, add half a pint of cream or milk, when the
rice is done put your veal again into it, to make hot; dish your
veal carefully, and season the rice with pepper and
salt, and pour over the veal; if with parsley and
butter in-stead of water, use the stock from it, and chop
fine some boiled parsley and mis into it.   580.--KNUCKLE OF
VEAL, BOILED. 
 Put sufficient water over it to cover it, let it boil gently, and
when it reaches a boil as much salt as would fill a dessert-spoon may be
thrown in, keep it well skimmed, and boil until tender, serve  with parsley and butter, and a salted
cheek. 
 Allow twenty minutes to each pound. 
 Three quarters of a pound of rice may be boiled with it, or green
peas, or cu-cumbers; turnips and small spring onions may be
put in, allowing them so much time from the cooking of the veal as they
will require.   581.--KNUCKLE OF VEAL STEWED. 
 Place your knuckle of veal in a stew-pan, if the knuckle is a very
large one it may be divided into two or three pieces for the sake of
convenience, put in the pan with it a few blades of mace, a little
thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a burnt crust of
bread, and cover with from three to four pints of water, cover down
close, and boil; when it has boiled place it by the side of the fire and let it
sim-mer for at least two hours, take it up, keep it hot while you strain its
liquor, then pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with a
lemon garnish.   582.--NECK OF VEAL WITH PEAS.  Add to the
meat, half an hour previous to its being done, one quart of peas,
twelve button onions, and a little more sugar 5 remove the
fat, and serve as before.   583.--NECK of VEAL WITH NEW
POTATOES. 
 As before, using new potatoes in place of the peas. Any other
vegetable, as French beans, broad beans, &c., may be served with
it in the same way.    Neck of veal.  An illustration of a piece of meat with garnish around and on top of it.    
 584.--NECK OF VEAL 
 May be boiled or roasted--the latter only if it be the best end, and sent to
table garnished as in the above engraving--it may be broiled in chops, but is
best in a pie; it may be, however, larded and stew-ed as follows:-- 
 585.--NECK OF VEAL STEWED. 
 Lard it with square pieces of ham or bacon which have
been previously rubbed in a preparation of shalots, spices, pep-per, and
salt; place it in the stewpan with about three pints of white
stock, add a bay or laurel leaf, and a couple of onions; add a
dessert-spoonful of brandy or whiskey, the latter if
brandy is not at hand, stew till tender, dish the meat, strain
the gravy, pour over the joint, and serve.   586.--BREAST OF
VEAL FORCED. 
 After taking out the tendons and all the rib bones, trim the
veal, spread it all over with forcemeat, sprinkle over, if you
have got it, a little chopped truffle or mushrooms, sprinkle a
little pepper and salt over it, then roll it tightly up and tie
it, then put it into a cloth and stew it for several hours, take it up, and
take off the cloth and strings; dry it and glaze it, have some good
sauce.   587.--SHOULDER OF VEAL. 
 Remove the knuckle and roast what remains, as the fillet; it may or may not
be stuffed at pleasure; if not stuffed, serve with oyster or mushroom
sauce; if stuffed, with melted butter.   588.--NECK OF VEAL
BRAISED. 
 This is done much in the same manner as the neck of veal stewed; it
is larded with bacon rolled in chopped parsley, pepper,
salt, and nutmeg, placed with the scrag in a tosser, in which
place lean bacon, celery, carrots, one onion, a
glass of sherry or Madeira, with sufficient water to cover
it all, stew over a quick fire until it is sufficiently tender, remove the
veal and strain the gravy, place the  veal in a stewpan in which some butter and
flour has been browned, let the bones be uppermost, when the
veal is nicely colored it is enough; boil as much of the liquor as may
be required, skim it clean, squeeze a lemon into it, pour it over the
meat, and serve.   589.--VEAL CUTLETS. 
 The cutlets should be cut as hand-somely as possible, and about three
quarters of an inch in thickness, they should before cooking be well beaten
with the blade of a chopper, if a proper beater be not at hand, they should
then be fried a light brown and sent up to table, garnished with parsley
and rolls of thin sliced, nicely fried bacon; they are with advantage
coated previously to cooking with the yolk of an egg, and dredged with
bread-crumbs.   590.--VEAL CUTLETS. 
 A very nice way to cook cutlets is to make a batter with half a pint of
milk, an egg beaten to a froth, and flour enough to render
it thick. When the veal is fried brown, dip it into the batter, then put
it back into the fat, and fry it until brown again. If you have any
batter left, it is nice dropped by the large spoon-ful into the fat, and
fried till brown, then laid over the veal. Thicken the gravy and
turn it over the whole.   591.--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Procure your cutlets cut as above, coat them with the yolk of eggs
well beaten, strew over them bread-crumbs powdered, sweet herbs,
and grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, put some fresh butter
in the pan, and when boiling put in your cutlets; now make some good
gravy; when the cutlets are cooked take them out and keep them before
the fire to keep hot, dredge into the pan a little flour, put in a piece
of butter, pour a little white stock, squeeze in juice of
lemon to taste, season with pepper and salt, add
mushroom-ketchup, boil quickly until a light brown; pour it over the
cutlets, and serve, the cutlets being laid in a circle round the dish, and the
gravy in the centre.   592.--VEAL CUTLETS CURRIED. 
 The cutlets may be prepared as for collops by cutting them into shape,
dip-ping them into the yolk of eggs, and seasoning them with fine
bread-crumbs about four table-spoonfuls, two spoonfuls of
curry-powder, and one of salt; fry them in fresh butter;
serve with curry sauce, which may be made with equal parts of
curry-powder, flour, and butter, worked well together into
a paste; put it into the pan from which the cutlets have been removed,
moisten with a cup-ful of water in which cayenne and salt
have been stirred; let it thicken and serve very hot.   593.--VEAL
CUTLETS--CRUMBED OR PLAIN. 
 If you have not got the leg of veal or the cutlet piece, get a
thick slice of veal and cut fourteen good sized cutlets, not too thin,
flatten each, and trim them a good shape, wet your beater in cold water
to keep the veal from sticking, if for plain cutlets flour them
well and dry them, then again have ready your saute-pan or fryingpan quite hot,
with a good bit of lard or butter, then put in your cutlets, and
fry a nice light brown; pepper and salt them; if to be
bread-crumbed, trim them as be-fore; have ready a little clarified
butter, some chopped parsley, and shalot, pepper, and
salt, all mixed together with a yolk or two of eggs well
mixed; have ready some bread-crumbs, put a spoonful of flour
amongst them well mixed; dip each cutlet into this omelet, and thin
bread-crumb them, patting: each cutlet with your knife to keep it
in the proper shape, making the bread-crumbs stick to the  cutlet; melt some lard in your saute-pan, and
place your cutlets in it ready to fry a nice brown.   594.--VEAL
CUTLETS--A LA MAINTENON. 
 Half fry your cutlets, dip them in a seasoning of bread-crumbs,
parsley, sha-lots, pepper and salt, and the yolk of an
egg; enclose them in clean writing paper, and broil them. 
 595.--COLLOPS OF VEAL. 
 The piece of veal as before named, or if you have it, a leg of
veal; if not, get a cutlet and cut it into thin pieces, and beat
very thin, saut them off, and when all done trim them round the size of a crown
piece; pepper and salt them, place in a stewpan with some
brown sauce if for brown, and if for white bechamel sauce;
add some forcemeat balls, some stewed mushrooms, and some whole
dressed truffles; season with pepper, salt, sugar,
and lemon; dish the collops round as you would cutlets, putting the
mush-rooms, and balls, and truffles in the middle.   596.--TENDONS OF
VEAL. 
 This is from a breast of veal. Turn up the breast and with a
sharp knife cut off the chine-bone all along, taking care you do not
take any of the gristle with the bone; when you have cut off this
bone, place your knife under the gristle and follow it all along until
you have raised it up; then cut off the tendons by keeping close to the rib
bones; when you have got it out cut twelve or four-teen tendons endwise,
keeping your knife slanting, as each may be the size of a small pattie round,
but not too thin; then put them on in cold water to scald, then put them
in cold again; prepare a stewpan lined with fat bacon or ham,
trim each tendon round, throw the tur-nip in your braise, cover them with
second stock, and some of the skim-mings; let them stew gently for six
or seven hours; be careful in taking them up, and place them separately upon a
drying sieve; glaze them two or three times; dish them on a border; they should
be so tender that you might suck them through a quill.   597.--GALANTINE
VEAL. 
 Take a large breast of veal; take off the chine-bone, then
take out the gristle called tendons, then take out all the rib bones;
flatten it well, have ready some good forcemeat or sausage meat;
spread it all over with your forcemeat, then make a line of green
gherkins, then a line of red capsicums, then a line of fat
ham or bacon, then some hard boiled yolks of eggs, then a
line of truffles; if you have any boiled calves' feet left
from jelly stock, sprinkle it in with pieces of breast of fowl;
sprinkle pepper and salt all over it, then roll it up tightly,
and likewise do so in a cloth; tie it up lightly; stew it for two hours or
more; take it up and press it flat; let it lie until quite cold; take off the
cloth. It will make excellent cold dishes.   598.--OLIVES of
VEAL--ROTI. 
 Cut some cutlets a moderate thickness from the chump end of the loin of
veal, beat them and trim them, eight or a dozen, according to dish; get
some slices of ham or bacon, cover the veal with
forcemeat and with the fat, sprinkle be-tween a little chopped
mushrooms, pep-per and salt, roll each up, and tie and skewer
each, then egg and bread-crumb them, bake them in the oven with
but-tered paper over them, cut the string when done, and before you send
them to table, draw the skewer, put asparagus sauce, tomato, or
mushroom in the dish.    599.--POTTED
VEAL. 
 This may be potted as beef, or thus:-- pound cold veal in a
mortar, work up with it in powder mace, pepper, and salt,
shred the leanest part of tongue very finely, or ham is sometimes
used; place in a jar or pot a layer of the pounded veal, and upon that a
layer of the tongue, and continue alternately until the pot is full,
seeing that every layer is well press-ed down; pour over the top melted
clarified butter. If it is desired, and which is frequently done, to
marble the veal, cut the tongue or ham in square dice
instead of shredding it, but care must be taken that they do not touch each
other or the effect is destroyed.   600.--LOIN of VEAL BRAISED. 
 This joint generally weighs from twelve to fourteen pounds, when off a good
calf. Have the rib bones carefully divided with a saw, so as not
to hurt the fillet, prepare the braising-pan, and proceed with the addition of
one pint of water, but take care not to cover the meat, which
might happen if your stew-pan was too deep, (this would be boiling instead of
braising;) it will take about three hours: be careful to remove the fat,
as this joint produces a great deal* Taste the sauce before serving, in
case more seasoning is required, which might be the case, depending on
the nature of the veal. A good cook should taste ail sauces before
serving.   601.--CALF'S-HEAD RAGOUT. 
 Parboil the head, and cut off the meat into thin broad pieces,
return the bones to the water in which it was boiled, with a
beef-bone or a piece of gravy beef, and ham or bacon
bones; add herbs, and, making two quarts of good gravy,
strain it, and put in the meat. When it has stewed three-quarters of an
hour, add an anchovy, a little beaten mace, cayenne
pepper, two spoonfuls of lemon pickle, half an ounce of
truffles and morels, a slice or two of lemon, and a glass of
wine: thicken the gravy with butter and flour,
adding forcemeat balls fried, paste fried; and brain-cakes
as a garnish.   602.--BOILED CALF'S HEAD. 
 Boil the head gently until the bone will leave the meat
easily; take some fine forcemeat, made with ham,
egg-balls, and small pieces of very nice pickled pork previously
boiled; lay them evenly over the inside of one half of the head, and
roll it up; tie it lightly in a cloth; put it into a stewpan to braise: cut the
other portion of the head into small pieces; thicken and flavor the
stock in which it was boiled, and warm it up in it, adding
forcemeat and egg-balls, brain cakes, and fried
paste. Place the rolled head in the centre of the dish, with the
hash round, and the brain cakes, fried paste, and slices of
lemon as garnish. Truffles may be added with advantage to any dish
com-posed of calf's head.   603.--HASHED VEAL. 
 If to be hashed, from any joint not over-done, cut thin slices, remove the
skin and gristle, put some sliced onions and a shalot over the
fire with a piece of but-ter and some flour; fry and shake them. Put in
some veal gravy and a bunch of sweet herbs; simmer ten minutes;
strain off the gravy, and put it to the veal, with some
parsley chopped small, and a little grated lemon peel and
nutmeg; let it simmer one minute. 
 If to be stewed, then add the yolk of two eggs, beaten up with two
spoonfuls of cream and a very little pepper, and stir over the
fire one way until it becomes thick and smooth; squeeze a little lemon
juice in, and serve.    604.--SCOTCH
COLLOPS. 
 If brown, cut the collops thin, beat them a little, fry them in
butter for about two minutes, after having seasoned them with a little
beaten mace; place them in a deep dish as they are fried, and cover them
with gravy. Put some butter into the frying-pan, and allow it
just to change color. Then strain the collops through a colander from the
gravy, and fry them quickly; pour the burnt butter from the pan,
and put in the gravy, adding a little lemon-juice. The
gravy may be made of the trimmings of the veal; serve it up with
forcemeat balls. 
 If white, cut the collops the size of a crown piece, and not much
thicker; but-ter the bottom of the stewpan and lay the meat piece by
piece upon it, having shaken a little flour upon the butter; add
two blades of mace and a little nut-meg. Set the stewpan on the
fire, and toss it together until the meat is very white; then add
half a pint of strong veal broth and one quarter of a pint of
cream; toss the whole, and when sim-mered enough, let them just boil;
add a little lemon juice, some forcemeat balls, and either
oysters or mushrooms, which must both be very white; if
necessary, thicken the sauce with the yolk of eggs, but do not
let it boil afterwards.   605.--TO DRESS COLLOPS QUICKLY. 
 Cut them as thin as paper with a very sharp knife, and in small bits.
Throw the skin, and any odd bits of the veal, into a little
water, with a dust of pepper and salt; set them on the
fire while you beat the collops; and dip them into a seasoning of herbs,
bread, pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, but
first wet them in egg. Then put a bit of butter into a
frying-pan, and give the collops a very quick fry; for as they are so thin, two
minutes will do them on both sides: put them into a hot dish before the fire;
then strain and thicken the gravy. 
 
 Or: --Cut the collops thin; flatten them with a
beater; have a large dish, dredge it with flour, and sprinkle a little
black pepper over it; as the collops are flattened, lay them in the
dish; put a piece of butter in a frying-pan, and when it is melted and
hot, lay in the collops; do them quickly; when lightly browned, dish them up,
and serve with a mushroom sauce.   606.--CALF'S HEAD
CURRY 
 Is usually made with the remains left from a previous dinner; if about two
pounds of meat remaining upon the bone, cut it whilst cold into
thin slices, then cut two onions and two apples into small dice,
which put into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and half a clove of
garlic cut in slices, stir with a wooden spoon over the fire until sauteed
nice and brown, when add a table-spoonful of curry powder, half one of
flour, mix well, then pour in a pint of broth, add a little
salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it well stirred; then put in the
calf's head, and let it remain upon the fire until quite hot
through; add the juice of half a lemon, which stir in very gently
without breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish, and serve with
rice separately. Curry sauce may be passed through a sieve
pre-viously to putting the head in.   607.--VEAL CUTLETS EN
PAPILLOTE. 
 Prepare, half-fry,--and put them in a pie-dish and pour the sauce
over, and let them remain until cold; then cut a sheet of foolscap paper
in the shape of a heart and oil or butter it; lay one of
the cutlets with a little of the sauce on one half of the paper,
turn the other half over, then turn and plait the edges of the paper
over, beginning at the top of the heart and finishing with an extra
twist at the  bottom, which will cause the
sauce to remain in it; broil slowly on a gridiron for twenty minutes on
a very slow fire, or place it in the oven for that time, and serve. 
 608.--CUTLETS AND RICE. 
 Boil a cupful of rice in milk until quite soft, then pound it
in a mortar with a little salt and some white pepper; pound also
separately equal parts of cold veal or chicken: mix them together
with yolk of egg, form them into cutlets, brush over with yolk of
egg, and fry them; send them up with a very piquant sauce, made of
good stock, thickened and flavored with lemon juice, lemon
pickle, or Harvey's sauce. The cutlets may be sent to table covered
with the small pickled mushrooms.   609.--CUTLETS AND CELERY. 
 The cutlets may be cut from the best part of the neck, taking care in
removing the meat from the bones to cut it in a good shape; make
gravy of the bones; stewing them with three or four heads of
celery cut and scalded, a little salt, pepper, and stewed
onion; strain the gravy, returning the celery into it;
thick-en it with butter and flour, and pour it boiling hot upon
the cutlets. Stew them till they are quite tender, and garnish with lemon
and small forcemeat balls fried.   610.--A L'ITALIENNE. 
 Chop a quantity of sweet herbs, pars-ley being predominant;
melt a little butter on the fire and then warm the herbs in it;
cut the cutlets into handsome shapes, brush them with the yolk of an
egg, then lay on the butter and herbs with a knife, and cover
them well with bread-crumbs; this process should be re-peated; fry them
of a fine brown; if glazed, they must be put between papers to press all
the grease out. then brush them over with the glaze, and send them to
table. Serve with Italian sauce.   611.--A LA HOLLANDAISE. 
 Out some large cutlets from a fillet of veal, beat them with a
rolling-pin, then dip them into batter made very rich with egg. Make a
fine forcemeat with pound-ed ham, chopped oysters,
&c., lay it upon the cutlets, roll them up, dip them again in
egg-batter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and tie them up; roast
them upon skew-ers or in a Dutch oven; chop and pound the trimmings of the
veal, add them to the oysters and ham forcemeat with two
raw eggs, make it into balls and fry them; have some stock ready
and stew it with an anchovy, a shalot, some white pepper and
salt; strain, and thicken it with butter, add the juice of
one-half a lemon and a glass of white wine; give it one boil and pour
it into the dish, with the rolled cutlets in the centre and the balls round
them.   612.--A LA HOLLANDAISE, WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
 Cut thin slices of undressed veal, hack them with the back of a knife
each way, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs, with a little
chopped parsley; fry them in but-ter, lay them on a sieve as they are
done, and serve them with white sauce as for fricassee. 
 613.--FARCIES OF VEAL. 
 Chop off the thick bone of a small neck of veal to the end of
the fifth rib; divide the cutlets, and with a broad knife beat the
meat of each flat, and cover it with forcemeat of lean veal,
beef suet, parsley, a small bit of garlic, a little
salt, mace, and pepper. Then roll the meat round
the bone, the end of which leave out at one extremity, put over a thin
slice of fat bacon, and, having stuffed in the remainder  of the forcemeat at the ends of the roll, bind
up with twine. At the bottom of a small stewpan lay slices of turnip,
onion, three inches of celery, and two large carrots cut
lengthways, and the steaks over: add as much water, or beef
broth, as shall half cover them; set the pan on a moderate stove, and some
wood embers on the lid; simmer slowly for two hours, then remove the twine, and
placing the bones upwards, leaning on each other, strain the
gravy over them. 
 
 Or: --Take cutlets from the chump end of a loin of
veal; beat them well; cover them with slices of bacon, then with a
fine forcemeat; roll them round: tie them into shape; then dip them in
the yolks of eggs and the raspings of bread; roast them, basting
well with butter; then put them into a sauce thickened with
mushrooms; squeeze lemon juice over them; let them stew till very
tender, and serve them up.   614.--ROLLED VEAL. 
 The breast is the best for this purpose. Bone a piece of the
breast, and lay a forcemeat over it of herbs,
bread, an anchovy, a spoonful or two of scraped ham, a
very little mace, white pepper, and chopped chives; then
roll, bind it up tight, and stew it in water or weak broth with
the bones, some carrots, onions, turnips, and a
bay-leaf. Let the color be preserved, and serve it in veal gravy, or
fricassee sauce, with mushrooms and artichoke bottoms. 
 
 Or: --Put the breast into a stewpan with just
water enough to cover it, an onion, a stick of celery, and
a bundle of sweet herbs; let it stew very gently, adding more
water as it stews, until it is tender; then take out the bones,
and remove the skin; return the bones into the liquor, which will
be a fine jelly, and serve as the sauce for several dishes. Cover
the veal with a fine forcemeat, season it well, add
egg-balls, and roll it up, securing it with tape. Put it into a stewpan
with the fat procured from pork chops, a slice or two of fat
bacon or a lump of butter, and a teacupful of the liquor it was
stewed in; shake the stewpan about until the fat has melted, and turn
the veal in it, that it may be all equally done, adding an onion
and another bunch of herbs; let it braise one and a half or two hours,
then strain the gravy, and thicken it; garnish with
forcemeat-balls, egg-balls, and fried paste cut in shapes.
Peeled mushrooms may be given by way of variety. When well done, this is
an excellent dish.   615.--CALF'S LIVER.--(English way.) 
 Cut the liver into thin slices, dip them in flour, and put it
in a saute or frying-pan in which some slices of bacon have been
previously cooked, with sufficient fat left in it; saut6 the
liver until quite brown and rather crisp, when take out and place it
upon a dish with the bacon, then dredge a spoonful of flour in
the pan, or enough to absorb all the fat in it, then add a little
broth or water so as to make it a thinnish sauce, season
it, and add two spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup.
If the above is nicely done, and the pieces cut the size of cutlets, it will
make a nice entree for an ordinary dinner. It should be served immediately, and
very hot.   616.--STEWED CALF'S LIVER.--(Soyer's.) 
 Choose a nice fat one, rather white in color, lard it
through with bacon, put one-quarter of a pound of butter in a
pan; when melted, add a table-spoonful of flour, keep stirring until a
nice yellow color, then put in the whole of the liver; turn round now
and then until it is a little firm, then add a pint of broth or
water, and a glass of any kind of wine, a bouquet of
parsley, thyme, bay-leaves,  a
little salt, pepper, and sugar, thirty button
onions; simmer one hour; take the fat off and the bouquet out, dish
the liver with the onions around it, reduce the sauce, so
that it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, sauce over and serve.
Any vegetables may be used, as carrots, turnips, peas,
haricots; and if a little gelatine or isinglass is added to the
sauce, and the liver with the sauce only put into a round
basin and pressed down and left until cold, it will make a nice dish for
supper, lunch or breakfast. If required to be rewarmed, cut into slices, put it
in the pan with a drop of water added to the gravy. 
 617.--CALF'S LIVER FRIED 
 Out in slices, and fry it in good beef-dripping or butter; let
the pan be half full, and put the liver in when it boils, which is when
it has done hissing; have some rashers of toasted bacon, and lay round
it, with some parsley crisped before the fire; always lay the
bacon in boiling water before it is either broiled, fried, or
toasted, as it takes out the salt, and makes it tender.
Sauce--plain melted butter, a little poured over the
liver, the rest in the sauce-boat.   618.--CALF'S
HEAD CHEESE. 
 Boil the head until the bones will come out, then put the
head, tongue, and brains, into a mould with spices
and parsley chopped fine until the mould is quite full; put a plate and
a weight over it, and when cold turn out. Serve with parsley, and slices
of rolled ham, placed round the dish.   619.--FRICANDEAU OF
VEAL. 
 In France the fricandeau is not unfrequently larded in the interior as well
as the outside, by having pieces of the size of a little finger cut off the
meat with an instrument something like a cheese-taster, and then
refilled with pledgets of bacon, or " lardons. " The meat is also
very generally served upon spinach, dressed with cream or
sorrel. 
 The meat, being cut into a handsome shape, should be larded, and put
into a stewpan of small size, with just sufficient water, or veal
broth, to cover it, and there allowed to simmer gently over a slow fire for
about three hours: or until it has become so tender as to be cut with a
fish-slice. The gravy is then seasoned at pleasure, but most
generally made into white sauce. 
 
 Or: --Cut a nice piece from the fillet, lard
it all over as thickly as possible; put it into a stewpan with a few slices of
fat bacon, some trimmings of veal, a carrot,
turnip, and a head of celery, a few allspice, two blades
of mace, and four bay-leaves; let it stow very gently, until thoroughly
done, boil the gravy down to a glaze, cover the veal with it, and
serve it upon a puree of sorrel. Grenadines of veal are cooked in
the same way, only made of smaller pieces, four for a dish. 
 620.--FRICANDELS 
 Take three pounds of the best end of a loin of veal, chop the
fat and lean together very fine; then soak a French roll in some
milk; beat three eggs; add pepper, salt,
nutmeg, and mace. Make the mixture up about the size, and
somewhat in the shape, of a chicken; rub it over with egg and
bread-crumbs, fry until it is brown, pour off the fat, boil
water in the pan, and stew the fricandels in this gravy; two will
make a handsome dish. Thicken the gravy before it is sent to table. 
 621.--MIROTON OF VEAL. 
 Chop very fine some cold dressed veal and ham or bacon;
mix it with a slice of crumb of bread soaked in milk, two  onions chopped and browned, a little
salt, pepper, and a little cream. Put all these
ingredients into a stewpan until they are hot, and are well mixed together;
then add one or two eggs according to the quantity, butter a
mould, put in the whole, and bake it in an oven until it is brown; turn out of
the mould, and serve with fresh gravy.   622.--A GALANTINE. 
 Take out the long bones from a breast of veal, and beat the
veal for four minutes with the flat part of a hand-chopper, in order
that it may roll easily. Spread it on the table, and brush it over thickly with
the yolk of an egg, and then sprinkle it with chopped herbs;
season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; make two
omelettes, one of the yolk and one of the white of egg; cut them
in strips; lay them upon the veal, with layers of pounded ham or
farce between; cut some pickled cucumbers or mushrooms into small
pieces, with some sweet herbs well seasoned; strew them over the
surface, then roll up the veal very tightly, tie it in a cloth, and let
it stew gently for six hours; then put a heavy weight upon it, and let it stand
two days before it is cut. Serve it in slices, with savory jelly; any
kind of boned game or fowl may be added. It requires to be highly
seasoned.   623.--VEAL OLIVES. 
 Cut long thin slices; beat them, lay them on thin slices of fat
bacon, and over these a layer of force meat seasoned high with some
shred shalot and cayenne. Roll them tight, about the size of two
fingers, but not more than two or three inches long; fasten them round with a
small skewer, rub egg over them, and fry of a light brown. Serve with
brown gravy, in which boil some mushrooms, pickled or fresh.
Garnish with balls fried.   624.--HARICOT OF YEAL. 
 Take the best end of a small neck; cut the bones short, but
leave it whole; then put it into a stewpan just covered with brown
gravy; and when it is nearly done, have ready a pint of boiled peas,
four cucumbers pared and sliced, two cabbage-lettuces cut into
quarters, and half a pint of carrots and turnips cut in shapes,
all stewed in a little good broth; put them to the veal, and let
them simmer ten minutes. When the veal is in the dish, pour the
sauce and vegetables over it, and lay the lettuce with
forcemeat-balls round it.   625.--VEAL CURRY. 
 Cut up about two pounds of lean veal into small square pieces, half
the size of walnuts; then put a large onion cut into small dice,
in a stewpan, with a clove or garlic and one apple cut
into slices, and one ounce of butter; keep them stirred over a moderate
fire, until lightly browned, when stir in a good table-spoonful of mild
curry powder, half a one of flour, mix well, then add a pint of
water, let it just boil up, put in the veal, which stir round two
or three times, to mix with the curry, and put the stewpan over a slow
fire, or in a warm oven for an hour and a-half; when done (which you may
ascertain by pressing a piece between the finger and thumb, if done it would be
quite tender and separate,) add the juice of a lemon and a little
salt, stir the whole round three or four times very gently, to mix, and
turn it out upon your dish; serve with rice separately. 
 Should you require a veal curry made in less time, the better plan
would be to saut6 the veal in butter previously, then putting it
with its own gravy to the curry, and boiling the whole gently a
quarter of an hour. 
 To make a veal curry with curry paste, saut6 the veal
in butter; when becoming  slightly
browned, add a good table-spoonful of the paste, with half a pint of
water; leave it to stew about half an hour, when it will be ready to
serve. 
 Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries are made
precisely the same as directed for veal curries.   626.--CALF'S
HEART BAKED. 
 Clean and stuff as for roasted beef heart; then bake instead of
roasting, and afterwards serve with rich gravy or liver
sauce.   627.--CALVES' FEET. 
 
 Stewed. --When properly cleaned, rub the feet
over with pepper, a very little salt, a little ground
ginger, and mace; cut the feet into moderately sized
pieces, and put them into a stewpan with a little shalot, and a
beefsteak also cut into pieces. Cover all with cold water, and
let them simmer together for three hours. When quite tender, take them off the
fire 5 strain the gravy through a sieve. The next day when cold, take
off all the fat; boil a small quantity of saffron in
cream, and a little cayenne pepper; mix it with the gravy,
and warm the whole without boiling; one foot and one pound of
steak will make a dish. 
 
 Fricasseed. --Boil the feet in water
until the bones will come out, with an onion and a bunch of
sweet herbs; take the bones out, and when the meat is cold
stuff it nicely with a very fine farce, or forcemeat; make the pieces up
into handsome shapes of an equal size; then take some of the stock in
which the feet were boiled, removing the fat, and straining it
when melted; make this into thick white sauce with cream and
roux; warm up the calves' feet in it, and send it to table either
plain or with a quantity of asparagus tops, previously boiled, and cut
into small pieces. 
 
 Or: --Boil tender two feet in a shallow pan.
observing not to break them; throw them into cold water for an hour;
divide and lay them in a little weak veal broth, and simmer them half an
hour, with a blade of mace and a bit of lemon peel, which take
out when you add half a tea-cupful of cream, and a bit of flour
and butter. 
 
 Fried. --Take calves' feet which have
been boiled until very tender; remove the bones; let them get cold; cut
them into well-shaped pieces; season them with white pepper and
salt; dip them into butter, fry them, and serve them up with a
sharp sauce or garnish of pickles. 
 Calves' feet may also be plainly boiled, and served with
parsley and butter, or eaten cold with oil and
vinegar.   628.--QUEUES BE VEAU. 
 Having nicely cleaned and soaked four calves' tails, cut off the
small ends, and blanch them; dry, flour, and fry them a fine brown in
butter; drain the fat from them, and having ready a pint of weak
broth, with a bunch of sweet herbs, chi-bols, two bay-leaves,
half a pint of mushrooms, pepper and salt boiled up and
skimmed; wipe the sides of the casserole, put the tails in, and simmer very
slowly until they are quite tender; keep them hot while the gravy is
strained, and boiled to a glaze, to cover them. If you have no
mushrooms, mix a little of the powder into gravy just before
serving; have ready small onions, and peel to one size to send up in the
dish.   629.--CALVES' EARS STUFFED. 
 The hair being scalded off the ears, after they have been cut quite
close to the head, scald and clean them as well as possible; boil them
quite tender, and blanch them in cold water. Observe that the gristle
next the head be cut so smooth as to allow the ears to stand
up-right; they may be boiled in white gravy  instead of water, winch will make them richer. When
become cold, fill up the cavity with a fine stuffing of calf's
liver, fat bacon, grated ham, bread soaked in
cream or gravy, herbs, an unbeaten egg, a little
salt, and a small piece of mace; rub egg over the
ears and stuffing, dip in bread-crumbs, and fry of a
beautiful light brown. Serve in brown or white gravy, or
tomato-sauce. If the ear be large, one will be sufficient for a
corner dish. 
 
 Or: --When prepared as above, boil them quite tender
in gravy, and serve them in chervil-sauce; or else boil
chervil to a mash, put to it melted butter, pass it through a
sieve, and add to it white sauce, or use the latter solely, in which
case put a little mushroom-powder into it; the same forcemeat may
be used, or the ears may be served without. They likewise eat well, cut
into slices, served in white or brown gravy. In the latter case,
fry them before stewing in gravy.   680.--CALVES'
BRAINS. 
 Remove all the large fibres and skin; soak them in warm water
for four hours; blanch them for ten minutes in boiling water, with a
little salt and vinegar in it; then soak them three hours in
lemon-juice in which a bit of chervil has been steeped; dry
them well, dip them in batter, and fry them. Make hot a ladleful of glaze, some
extremely small onions browned in butter, artichoke
bottoms divided in half, and some mushroom-buttons, and serve round the
brains; or, after preparing as above, serve in a rich white
acidulated sauce, with lemon-juice or tomato-sauce. 
 
 Or: --Blanch the brains, and beat them up with
an egg, pepper, and salt, a small quantity of chopped
parsley, and a piece of butter. Make them into small cakes, put
them into a small frying-pan, and fry them. 
 
 Or: --Prepare them as above; wet with egg, and
sprinkle crumbs, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and
finish dressing in a Dutch oven. Serve with melted butter, with or
without a little mushroom-ketchup.   631.--CROQUETTES OF
BRAINS. 
 Take calf's brains, blanch, and beat them up with one or two
chopped sage-leaves, a little pepper and salt, a few
bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and an egg beaten; roll them
into balls, and fry them.   632.--CERVELLES DE VEAU AU MARINADE. 
 Cut a carrot, a turnip, and an onion into pieces; let
them stew in a little butter; then add a bundle of sweet herbs,
and pour over them a pint of vinegar and water in equal parts;
then strain the liquor, and pour it over calves' brains cleaned
and blanched; let them stew in it till they are firm, then fry them in
butter, and serve up with crisped parsley.   638.--CERVELLES BE
VEAU FRICASSEES. 
 Having cleaned and blanched the brains, render them white and
firm by squeezing lemon-juice over them; then put them into a stcwpan
with a piece of butter; stew slowly, that they may not brown; dredge in
a small quantity of flour; add a bunch of parsley, and one of
chives; moisten with clear veal broth; let the brains stew
until they are firm; then send them up in the sauce, thickened with a
little cream and flour and butter.   634.--FRIED
LIVER AND BACON, ETC. 
 Cut the liver rather thin, say about half an inch thick, but first
soak it in warm water about one hour; chop a quantity of parsley,
season it with pepper, and lay it thick upon the liver; cut  slices of bacon, and fry both together, but
put the bacon first into the pan; add a little lemon-pickle to
the gravy made by pouring the fat out of the pan,
flour-ing, and adding boiling water, or:--Out the liver in
handsome pieces, lard them very nicely, and chop some parsley and
spread it over the surface with a little pepper and salt; put a
small piece of butter well mixed with flour in the bottom of a
stewpan, and put in the liver, and allow it to stew gently in its own
juices until it is done enough.   635.--TO DRESS LIVER AND
LIGHTS. 
 Half boil an equal quantity of each; then cut them-into a middling-size
mince; put to it a spoonful or two of the water they were boiled in, a
bit of butter, flour, salt, and pepper; simmer ten
minutes, and serve hot.   636.--TO DRESS CALF'S HEART. 
 Stuff and roast the same as beef heart; or, being sliced and
seasoned, make it into a pudding as directed for steak or kidney
pudding. It may be either roasted or baked, but in either way should be well
basted, stuffed with forcemeat as for veal, but made rather more
savory, and served up in the same manner as beef heart. 
 When the kidney is cut from the loin and dressed separately,
chop the kidney, with some of the fat; likewise a little
leek or onion, pepper, and salt. Veal
forcemeat may also be used, but it rather weakens the pungency of the
seasoning. Roll it up with an egg into balls, and fry them. 
 637.--SWEETBREADS. 
 For every mode of dressing, sweetbreads should be prepared by
blanching, or rather parboiling them. 
 They may be larded and braised; and, being of themselves rather insipid,
they will be improved by a relishing sauce, and by a large quantity of
herbs in the braise. Slices of lemon put upon the sweetbreads
while braising, will heighten the flavor and keep them white, which is
very desirable when sent to table with white sauce. Stuffed with
oysters, they make a very good 
 vol-au-vent .   688.--SWEETBREADS A LA
DAUBE. 
 Blanch two or three of the largest sweetbreads; lard them; put
them into a stewpan, with some good veal gravy, a little browning, and
the juice of half a lemon; stew them till quite tender, and just
before serving thicken with flour and butter; glaze them; serve
with their gravy, with bunches of boiled celery round the
dish.   689.--SWEETBREADS STEWED. 
 After blanching, stuff them with a forcemeat of fowl, fat and
lean bacon, an anchovy, nutmeg, lemon-peel,
parsley, and a very little cayenne and thyme; when well
mixed, add the yolks of two eggs, and fill the sweetbreads.
Fasten them together with splinter-skewers, and lay them in a pan, with slices
of veal over, and bacon under them; season with pepper and
salt, mace, cloves, herbs, and sliced onion;
cover close over the fire ten minutes, then add a quart of broth, and
stew gently two hours; take out the sweetbreads, strain and skim the
broth, and boil it to half a pint; warm the sweetbreads in it,
and serve with lemon round.   640.--FRIED. 
 Cut them in slices about three-quarters of an inch thick, dry and
flour, egg them, and dip them in fine bread-crumbs; fry
them of a light brown; serve on spinach, endive, or sorrel; or
cut some  toasted bread, dish them on it,
and serve them with a sauce piquante. For an invalid, boil them well,
cover them with bread-crumbs, a little pepper and salt,
with a small bit of butter; brown them lightly with a salamander. 
 641.--ROASTED. 
 Blanch, dry, egg and bread-crumb them; pass a small skewer
through each; tie on a spit; roast gently; baste with fresh butter;
serve nicely frothed, and a mushroom sauce under them. 
 642.--SWEETBREADS FRICASSEED WHITE. 
 Blanch and slice them; thicken some veal gravy with flour and
butter mixed; a little cream; a little mushroom powder,
and add white pepper, nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel;
stew these ingredients together a little, then simmer the sweetbreads
twenty minutes. When taken off the fire, add a little salt and
lemon-peel; stir well, and serve.   643.--IF FRICASSEED BROWN. 
 Out them about the size of a walnut, flour, and fry them of a
fine brown; pour to them a good beef gravy, seasoned with salt,
pepper, cayenne, and allspice; simmer till tender; thicken
with flour and butter. Morels, truffles, and
mushrooms may be added, and mushroom
ketchup.  644.--CROQUETTES. 
 Take two sweetbreads or half a pound of roast veal, one
onion chopped fine, mixed with a small piece of butter, one
egg, and a little cream; season with white pepper,
cayenne, and salt. This will make eight or nine croquettes. Roll
them in egg and then in bread-crumbs; fry them in lard a
nice brown color; strew them in a circle round the dish, and serve fried
parsley in the centre. 
 Cold veal chopped, and stewed in a little gravy, and when cold
made up as above, makes excellent rissoles.   645.--TO ROAST
SWEETBREADS. 
 Sweetbreads should be soaked in warm water, and then blanched
by being thrown into boiling water, boiled for a few minutes, and then
put into cold water. They may then be larded and roasted or fried, and
afterwards stewed in butter with crumbs of bread.
Sweetbreads may also be larded and braised, and being of themselves
rather insipid, they will be improved by a relishing sauce and by a
large quantity of herbs in the braise. Skins of lemon put upon the
sweetbreads while braising will heighten the flavor, and keep them
white; which is very desirable when sent to table with white
sauce. The usual sauce with which they are served is butter
and mushroom ketchup. They may be roasted in a Dutch oven. 
 646.--CERVELLE DE VEAU A LA MAtTRE D' HOTEL. 
 Let them be prepared. Cut some bread into the shape of cocks'-combs,
which fry in butter till of a fine color. Dish them between each half of
the brains, which you have divided, and cover the brains over
with a maitre d' h6tel sauce, two spoonfuls of bechamel, a small bit of
fresh butter, some parsley chopped fine, the juice of half
a lemon, and let it be well seasoned.   647.--TONGUE, ETC. 
 Neat's tongue should be boiled full three hours. If it has been in
salt long, it is well to soak it over night in cold water. Put it
to boil when the water is cold. If you boil it in a small pot, it is
well to change the water, when it has boiled an hour and a half; the
fresh water should boil before the half-cooked  tongue is put in again. It is nicer for being kept
in a cool place a day or two after being boiled. Nearly the same rules apply to
salt beef. A six pound piece of corned beef should boil full
three hours; and salt beef should be boiled four hours. 
 648.--CROQUETS OF SWEETBREAD. (French Receipt.) 
 Take such sweetbreads as have already been served, cut them into as
small dice as possible. Have some good veloute boiled down ready. Throw the
dice of sweetbreads into the veloute, and give them a boil, that they
may taste of the sauce. Then lay them on a plate to cool. When cold,
roll them into any shape you like, round, oval, or long. Of all things avoid
giving them the shape of pears, as some persons do, for in that case
they must be more handled, without at all improving the quality. Serve up with
parsley, fried green, in the middle. If you have some mushrooms
left in the larder, cut some likewise in dice, and mix them with the
croquets.   649.--ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU AUX POIS, OR SCOLLOPS OF
SWEETBREADS WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 Take four fine sweetbreads, let them disgorge, and blanch them
thoroughly. Next, cut them into scollops, as large as possible. Mark them in a
saute-pan, or fryingpan, with melted butter and a little salt. A
quarter of an hour before you send up, fry them lightly over a stove, with a
clear fire; turn them round, and when done, drain the butter, and put a
little glaze into the pan. Keep stirring the sweetbreads in the glaze;
dish them miroton way, and send up the peas in the middle. When you have
sweetbreads left at table, cut them into scollops, make them hot in a
little light glaze, and after having dished them miroton way, mask them with
the peas. Scollops of sweetbreads are easier to dress when you
put them between a slice of fried bread cut round, and the green
peas in the middle; without the fried bread they do not keep the
shape in which you dish them.   650.--FOIE DE VEAU A LA PO$LE, OR SCOLLOPS OF
CALF'S LIVER WITH FINE HERBS. 
 Take a nice calf's liver as white as possible, cut it
into slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in the flour, and fry
them in a black fryingpan, of a nice color, with a little butter. When
they are done, put them in a dish, and take some fine herbs which yon
have previously chopped fine, such as parsley, shalots,
mushrooms, &c. Stew them slowly on the fire with a little
butter, and when the herbs are sufficiently done add a
teaspoonful of flour, and moisten with gravy, if you have any, or
with water, and add a small bit of glaze. When done, put the
liver in the sauce, which warm, but do not allow it to boil; add
a little salt, pepper, lemon, and serve very hot. 
 This is again a common dish, yet it is very palatable. You may put the
liver in the sauce; but mind that it does not boil. It is a dish
for a breakfast a la fourchette.   651.--CALF'S HEAD. 
 Let the head be thoroughly cleaned, the brains and
tongue be taken out, boil it in a cloth to keep it white, (it is
as well to soak the head for two or three hours previously to boiling,
it helps to improve the color,) wash, soak, and blanch the brains, then
boil them, scald some sage, chop it fine, add pepper,
salt, and a little milk, mix it with the brains; the
tongue, which should be soaked in salt and water for twenty-four
hours, should be  boiled, peeled, and served on a
separate dish. The head should boil until tender, and if intended to be
sent to table plainly, should be served as taken up, with melted butter
and parsley; if otherwise, when the head is boiled sufficiently
tender, take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk of egg well beaten
up, powder with breadcrumbs, and brown before the fire in a Dutch or
American oven.   652.--CALF'S HEAD BAKED. 
 Butter the head, and powder it with a seasoning
composed of bread-crumbs, very fine, a few sweet herbs and
sage, chopped very fine, cayenne, white pepper, and
salt. Divide the brains into several pieces, not too small,
sprinkle them with breadcrumbs, and lay them in the dish with the
head. Stick a quantity of small pieces of butter over the
head and in the eyes, throw crumbs over all, pour in three parts of the
dish full of water, and bake in a fast oven two hours. 
 653.--CHITTERLINGS. 
 Or calf's tripe, stewed tender and served on toast with
a sauce of onions boiled and mashed in milk, with butter
added, form a nice dish. They are eaten with pepper and
vinegar.  654.--HASHED CALF'S HEAD. 
 Put into a stewpan one table-spoonful of chopped onions, and three of
vinegar, take the remains of the head which cut into slices,
place them on a dish, add a table-spoonful of flour to them, a
tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter of one of pepper, put the stewpan
on the fire to boil for one minute, add the pieces of head, and moisten
with half a pint of broth, water, or milk; let it simmer
for ten minutes and serve on toast or plain, or with sippets round. The
addition of a few gherkins sliced or any mixed pickle is an
improvement. A little thyme or bay-leaf, if at hand, may be added. If
with water or gravy a little coloring will improve the
appearance. This receipt is for one pound of meat. It may also be warmed
in curry-sauce, and is excellent.   655.--CALF'S HEAD 1
LA TORTUE. 
 Bone a calf's head whole; after being well scalded and
cleaned cut off the ears, take out the tongue, cut the gristle
and bones from the tongue; prepare a good forcemeat, add
some chopped truffles into it, and some mushrooms; lay the
head on a clean cloth on the dresser, spread it thickly over with the
forcemeat, blanch and take off the skin of the tongue; cut
each ear in half longways, place them in different parts on the
forcemeat and the tongue in the middle, lap it over keeping it
high in the middle, tie the ends, and brace it all over tightly with some loose
string, as by doing so it will leave all the marks appearing when glazed like
the back shell of turtle, then tie it up in a cloth; it will take some
hours to boil; when done, which will be in your second stock, take it up
and take off the cloth, put it upon the dish, dry it and glaze it several
times; have ready cut from the crumb of bread the form of a turtle's
head and the four fins, fry them a nice light brown, and glaze them with
the head, placing them to the head on the dish, as to look like a
turtle crawling, for the eyes use whites of hard boiled eggs; a
sauce you will find among the sauces.   656.--CALF'S
HEAD. 
 Choose one thick and fat, but not too large; soak for ten minutes in
lukewarm water, then well powder with rosin, have plenty of scalding
water ready, dip in the head, holding it by the ear,
scrape the hair off with the back of a knife, which will come off easily if
properly scraped, without scratching the check; when perfectly clean, take the
eyes out, saw it in two lengthwise, through the skull, without spoiling the
brain, which  take carefully out, and put
to disgorge for a few hours in lukewarm water; pull the tongue
out, break the jaw-bone, and remove the part which contains the teeth,
put the head into plenty of water to disgorge for one hour; make
the following stock and boil for about two hours and a half, and it will
be ready to serve. 
 The stock is made by putting into a braising-pan two carrots,
three onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves,
a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; set it on the fire
for about twenty minutes, keep stirring it round, then add a pint of
water, and when warm mix a quarter of a pound of flour, add a
gallon of water, one lemon in slices, and a quarter of a pound of
salt, then lay the head in; take care it is well covered, or the
part exposed will turn dark; simmer gently till tender.   657.--RIS DE VEAU
EN CAISSES. 
 Blanch three sweetbreads, and simmer in a strong, well flavored
gravy till quite done. Have ready three round pieces of white
paper oiled, and lay them thereon; having left them lightly wetted with
gravy, sprinkle over them the finest crumbs or raspings of bread,
pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg; do them slowly on
a gridiron, and serve in the cases. Any of the vegetable sauces may be served
with them.   658.--GARNITURE EN RAGOUT. 
 Having prepared and blanched sweetbreads of veal or lamb
(house-lamb is the best), liver of lamb and rabbits,
truffles and mushrooms, simmer gently half an hour in rich
veal broth; then divide the several articles into fit bits for helping,
and stew the whole until very tender. If, when finished, the gravy wants
consistence, boil up in it a good piece of butter rolled in
flour. Season it fifteen minutes before serving, with white
pepper, salt, and nutmeg only. Have ready and hot,
forcemeat balls, in which finely scraped ham, beef suet,
the breast of a fowl, or cold veal, are the principal
ingredients. 
 It may be served in a tureen as soup, or in an ornamented crust previously
baked. If to be white, beat as many yolks of eggs as the quantity
may require, and simmer in the ragout two minutes: it must not boil. Sometimes
one or two whole pigeons, nicely prepared, form a part of this much
admired dish, which in one way or other is rarely omitted on well covered
tables.   659.--VEAL CAKE. 
 Bone a breast of veal, and cut it in slices; cut also slices
of ham or lean bacon, and boil six eggs hard;
butter a deep pan, and place the whole in layers one over the other,
cutting the eggs in slices, and seasoning with chopped
herbs and cayenne pepper, and wetting the herbs with
anchovy or other highly-flavored sauce. Cover up the whole, let
it bake for four hours, and when taken from the oven, lay a weight upon it to
press it well together. When cold, turn it out.   660.--ANOTHER. 
 Boil six or eight eggs hard; cut the yolks in two, and lay
some of the pieces in the bottom of the pan; shake in a little chopped
parsley, some slices of veal and ham, and then eggs
again, shaking in after each some chopped parsley, with pepper
and salt, till the pan is full. Then, put in water enough to
cover it, and lay on it about an ounce of butter; tie it down with a
double paper, and bake it about an hour. Then press it close together
with a spoon, and let it stand till cold. It may be put into a small mould, and
then it will turn out beautifully for a supper or side dish.    661.--ANOTHER. 
 Chop very finely cold dressed veal and ham or bacon;
mix it with a slice of bread-crumb soaked in milk, two
onions chopped and browned, a little salt, pepper, and an
egg beaten. Put all these ingredients into a stewpan until they are hot
and are well mixed; then oil or butter a mould, put in the whole,
and bake it in an oven until it is brown; then take it out, and send it to
table with fresh gravy.  662.--VEAL BOLLS 
 Are cut from any cold joint, or prepared in the same manner from the raw
meat. Out thin slices, and spread on them a fine seasoning of a
very few crumbs, a little chopped or scraped bacon, parsley and
shalot, some fresh mushrooms stewed and minced, pepper,
salt, and a small piece of pounded mace. This stuffing may
either fill up the roll like a sausage, or be rolled with the
meat. In either case, tie it up very tight, and stew very slowly in a
gravy and a glass of sherry. Serve it when tender, after skimming
it nicely.   663.--BLANQUETTES. 
 Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a stewpan; then put
in a little thyme, parsley, or any herbs you like the
flavor of, and a little onion, all chopped fine, with a pinch of
flour. Brown the herbs; add pepper and salt, with a
clove or two. Then put in cold or undressed veal, cut in thin
slices the size of half a crown; add gravy or broth, half a pint,
or according to the quantity of meat you want to dress. It should not be
too large a dish. Let it stew very gently over a stove; if of dressed
meat, one hour will be sufficient; add half a teacupful of cream,
and stir it well together for a few minutes; then take it up, and before you
turn it out have two yolks of eggs well beaten, and add to your dish.
Give it a few shakes over the fire. It must not boil, or it will curdle. 
 
 Or: --Cut rabbits, fowl, veal,
or lobster in pieces, steep them (except the veal and
fish) in water for half an hour, changing the water. Put
some butter in a stewpan to melt, but do not let it fry; put in the
meat with a very little flour, and keep shaking it well; pour in
by degrees some broth made of white meat, add a bunch of
parsley, an onion, salt, mace, and white
pepper. Stew it well a quarter of an hour before it is dished; take out the
parsley and onion, and add some raw parsley chopped, and
the yolk of an egg and cream beaten together. You must never
cease shaking the pan until the blanquette is put over the dish. 
 664.--VEAL A LA CHARTREUSE. 
 Line a copper mould with fat bacon, lay sliced carrots and
turnips round the edges, then cover with a forcemeat, and put in
a fricassee of veal or fowl. Cover the top of the mould with a
paste, steam it an hour, and serve it turned out upon a dish. 
 665.--TO MARBLE VEAL. 
 Boil tender, skin, and cut a dried neat's tongue in thin
slices, and beat it as fine as possible, with half a pound of butter and
some mace pounded. Have ready some roasted fillet of veal, beaten
with butter, and seasoned with white pepper and salt; of
this put a thick layer in a large potting-pot, then put in the tongue,
in rough irregular lumps, not to touch each other; fill up the pot with
veal, and press it down quite close. Pour clarified butter thick
over; keep in a dry cool place, and serve in thin slices, taking off the
butter. Garnish with parsley.   666.--SCALLOPS of COLD
VEAL. 
 Mince the meat extremely small, and set it over the fire, with a
scrape of nut-meg, a little pepper and salt, and a
little  cream, for a few minutes; then put
it into the scallop-shells, and fill them with crumbs of bread,
over which put some bits of butter, and brown them before the fire. 
 Either veal or chicken looks and eats well prepared in this
way, and lightly covered with crumbs of bread fried; or these may be put
on in little heaps.   667.--TO MINCE VEAL. 
 Cut cold veal as fine as possible, but do not chop it; put to it a
very little lemon-peel shred, two grates of nutmeg, some
salt, and four or five spoonfuls of either broth, milk, or
water; simmer these gently with the meat, but take care not to
let it boil, and add a bit of butter rubbed in flour. Put sippets
of thin toasted bread, cut into a three-cornered shape, round the
dish. Fried crumbs of bread lightly strewed over, or served in little
heaps on the meat, are an improvement to the look and flavor. A little
shred of shalot may occasionally be added. 
 
 Or: --Stew a few small mushrooms in their own
liquor and a bit of butter a quarter of an hour; mince them very small,
and add them (with their liquor) to minced veal, with also a little
pepper and salt, some cream, and a bit of butter
rubbed in less than half a teaspoonful of flour. Simmer three or four
minutes, and serve on thin sippets of bread.   668.--THE TURKISH MODE 
 Take equal quantities of cold dressed veal, minced very fine,
fat, and crumbs of bread, and season it well; add chopped
onions, parsley, salt, and cayenne pepper; wet it
with one or two eggs, according to the quantity, adding, if necessary, a
little cold melted butter; make the mixture into balls or
egg-shapes, and roll them in as much boiled rice as they will
take round them. Stew them for an hour and a half in good gravy, well
seasoned, and serve them up in it. 
 In all these modes, the addition may be made of sauce aux
truffles, or any of the approved sauces; and a squeeze of lemon will
in all cases be found to give a pleasing zest to their flavor. 
 669.--CURRY of VEAL. 
 Out part of a breast of veal in moderate sized pieces, put it in a
stewpan with an onion and a shalot sliced fine, a slice o lemon,
one ounce of butter, a little parsley and thyme, and a
table-spoonful of curry-powder mixed with the same quantity of
flour; add sufficient broth or water for the sauce;
let it boil gently till the veal is done; strain the sauce
through a sieve, pour it over the veal quite hot, and serve with
rice in a sepa-rate dish.   670.--A ROAST BEEF of LAMB.* 
 Take the saddle and the two legs of a lamb, cut on the middle of each
leg a small rosette, which is to be larded, as also the fillets. Roast
the whole, and glaze the larded parts of a good color. In France it is served
up with maitre d'hdtel sauce, but in England with gravy under it,
and mint-sauce in a boat.   MUTTON.  
 THIS is a delicate and a favorite meat. It is susceptible of many
modes of cooking, and should always be served very hot and with very hot
plates, except of course in cases where it may be sent to table as a cold dish.
It is a meat which {Footnote} * The appellation of "roast
beef of lamb" must sound very extraordinary to an American ear, but
the singularity of the name is as nothing when compared with the importance and
necessity of the dish. At a very great dinner, it is essential to have some
dish of magnitude. This has a very good appearance, and is truly excellent. I
beg to recommend the trial of a maitre d'hotel sauce under, as the
butter, parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, agree well with the gravy of the
meat.--UDE.  requires care in the cooking,
which it will amply repay. The roasting parts are the better for hanging some
time, especially the haunch or saddle, but not for boiling, as the color is apt
to be injured. One of the most favorite dishes is the   671.--HAUNCH OF
MUTTON. 
 The haunch should be hung as long as possible without being tainted; it
should be washed with vinegar every day while hanging, and dried
thoroughly after each washing; if the weather be muggy rubbing with
sugar will prevent its turning sour; if warm weather, pepper and
ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off the flies. 
 When ready for roasting, paper the fat, commence roasting some
distance from the fire, baste with milk and water first, and then
when the fat begins dripping, change the dish and baste with its own
dripping; half an hour previous to its being done remove the paper from
the fat, place it closer to the fire, baste well, serve with currant
jelly.   672.--TO STUFF A LEG of MUTTON. 
 Take a leg of mutton, cut off all the fat, take the
bone carefully out and preserve the skin whole; take out
the meat and mince it fine, and mix and mince with it about one pound of
fat bacon and some parsley; season the whole well with popper and
salt, and a small quantity of eschalot or chives chopped
fine; then put the meat into the skin and sew it up neatly on the
under side; tie it up in a cloth and put it into a stewpan with two or three
slices of veal, some sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of
parsley, and a few slices of fat bacon; let it stew for three or
four hours, and drain the liquor through a fine sieve; when reduced to a glaze,
glaze the mutton with it and serve in stewed French beans. 
 673.--TO DRESS A LEG of MUTTON WITH OYSTERS. 
 Parboil some fine well-fed oysters, take oif the beards and horny
parts; put to them some parsley, minced onion, and sweet
herbs, boiled and chopped fine, and the yolks of two or three
hard boiled eggs. Mix all together, and cut five or six holes in the
fleshy part of a leg o mutton, and put in the mixture; and dress
it in either of the following ways: --Tie it up in a cloth and let it boil
gently two and a half or three hours, according to the size. 
 
 Or: --Braise it, and serve with a pungent brown
sauce.   674.--SADDLE OF MUTTON. 
 This joint, like the haunch, gains much of its flavor from hanging for some
period. The skin should be taken off, but skewered on again until within
rather more than a quarter of an hour of its being done; then let it be taken
off, dredge the saddle with flour, baste well. The kidneys may be
removed or remain at pleasure, but the fat which is found within the
saddle should be removed previous to cooking.   675.--LEG of MUTTON
ROASTED. 
 Like the haunch and saddle, should be hung before cooking, should be slowly
roasted and served with onion sauce or currant jelly. 
 676.--ROAST LEG of MUTTON.--ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 Put the leg into an iron saucepan with enough cold water to
cover it, let it come to a boil gently, parboil it by simmering only 5 have the
spit or jack ready, and take it from the hot water and put it to the
fire instantly; it will take from an hour to an hour and a half if large, and
less time if small.   677.--ROAST LEG of MUTTON BONED AND STUFFED.   The
principal skill required in accomplishing  this
dish is the boning; this must be done with a very sharp knife. Commence on the
underside of the joint, passing the knife under the skin until exactly
over the bone, then cut down to it, pass the knife round close to the
bone right up to the socket, then remove the large bone of the
thickest end of the leg, seeing the meat is clear of the
bone; you may then draw out the remaining bones easily. Put in
the orifice a highly seasoned forcemeat, fasten the knuckle end tightly
over, replace the bone at the base of the joint, and sew it in; roast it
in a cradle spit or on a jack; if the latter let the knuckle end be downwards
as it is less likely to suffer the forcemeat to drop out. It must be
well basted, and should be sent to table with a good gravy. 
 678.--LEG of MUTTON BOILED. 
 Should be first soaked for an hour and a half in salt and water, care
being taken that the water be not too salt, then wiped and boiled
in a floured cloth; the time necessary for boiling will depend upon the
weight; two hours or two hours and a half should be about the time; it should
be served with turnips mashed, potatoes, greens, and caper
sauce; or brown cucumber, or oyster sauce.   679.--LEG of
MUTTON BBAISED.
  Procure a leg of mutton of choice flavor, take off the knuckle
neatly, divide it into two or three pieces, trim the leg of all the
superfluous edges, and then half roast it; place it with the broken knuckle in
a stewpan, add the trimmings with half a dozen slices of rich fat bacon,
thyme, knotted marjoram, and other sweet herbs, an
onion stuck with cloves, and about half an ounce of butter
rolled in flour; stew the whole gently, shaking it occasionally and turn
it while stewing; when it is tender take it up, skim the gravy, strain,
boil it fast until reduced to a glaze, make a puree or soup of vegetables and
place the mutton upon it, cover the mutton with the glaze, and
serve.   680.--TO SEND A LEG of MUTTON NEATLY; TO TABLE WHICH HAS BEEN
CUT FOR A PREVIOUS MEAL. 
 Too much must not have been cut from the joint or it will not answer the
purpose. Bone it, cut the meat as a fillet, lay forcemeat
inside, roll it, and lay it in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover
it; add various kinds of vegetables, onions, turnips,
carrots, parsley, &c., in small quantities; stew two hours,
thicken the gravy, serve the fillets with the vegetables round it. 
 681--SADDLE OF MUTTON, À LA POLONAISE. (Soyer's.) 
 This is my economical dish, 
 par excellence,  and very much it is liked every time
I use it. Take the remains of a saddle of mutton, of the previous day,
cut out all the meat close to the bone, leaving about one inch
wide on the outside, cut it with a portion of the fat, into small dice;
then put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a little
butter; fry one minute, add the meat, with a table-spoonful of
flour, season rather high with salt, pepper, and a little
grated nutmeg; stir round, and moisten with a gill or a little more of
broth, add a bay-leaf, put it on the stove for ten minutes, add two
yolks of eggs, stir till rather thick, make about two pounds of mashed
potatoes firm enough to roll, put the saddle-bone in the middle of
the dish, and with the potatoes form an edging round the saddle, so as to
give the shape of one, leaving the middle empty; fill it with your mince
meat, which ought to be enough to do so; if you should not have enough
with the remains of the saddle, the remains of any other joint of mutton
may be used; egg all over, sprinkle bread-crumbs  around, put in rather a hot oven, to get a nice yellow
color, poach six eggs, and place on the top, and serve brown
gravy round; white or brown sauce, if at hand, is an
improvement. You may easily fancy the economy of this well-looking and good
dish; the remains of a leg, shoulder, loin, neck of
mutton, and lamb, may be dressed the same way, keeping their shape
of course.   682.--SOYER'S NEW MUTTON CHOP. 
 Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton, which cut into chops half an
inch in thickness with a saw, without at all making use of a knife (the sawing
them off jagging the moat and causing them to eat more tender,) then trim them
into shape; season well with salt and pepper, place them upon a
gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times; they would
require ten minutes' cooking; when done dress them upon a hot dish, spread a
small piece of butter over each, (if approved of,) and serve; by adding
half a table-spoonful of good sauce to each chop when serving, and
turning it over two or three times, an excellent entrée is produced: the
bone keeping the gravy in whilst cooking, it is a very great
advantage to have chops cut after this method. At home, when I have a saddle
of mutton, I usually cut two or three such chops, which I broil, rub
maître-d'hôtel butter over, and serve with fried potatoes
round, using the remainder of the saddle the next day for a joint. The above
are also very excellent, well seasoned and clipped into egg and
breadcrumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops may be cut precisely
the same, but require a few minutes' less broiling. 
 You must remark that, by this plan, the fat and lean are better
divided, and you can enjoy both; whilst the other is a lump of meat near
the bone and fat at the other end, which partly melts in cooking,
and is often burnt by the flame it makes; the new one not being divided at the
bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. If well sawed it should not
weigh more than the ordinary one, being about half the thickness. Do try them,
and let me know your opinion.   633.--NECK OF MUTTON 
 Is particularly useful, as many dishes may be made of it. The best end of
the neck may be boiled for one hour and a half, and served with
turnips; or roasted; dressed in steaks; in pies;
à-la-Turc; or en haricot. 
 The  scrag  may be stewed into broth; or with a
small quantity of water, some small onions, a few
peppercorns, and a little rice, and served together. 
 684.--SHOULDER OF MUTTON 
 Must be well roasted and sent to table with skin a nice brown; it is 
served with onion sauce. This is the plainest fashion, and for small
families the best.  
 685.--A SHOULDER OF MUTTON WITH RICE. 
 Take a shoulder of mutton and half boil it, then put it into a
stewpan, with two quarts of mutton gravy, a quarter of a pound of
rice, a teaspoonful of mushroom powder, with a little beaten
mace, and stew it till the rice is tender; then take up the
mutton and keep it hot; put to the rice half a pint of
cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; stir it well
round the pan, and let it boil a few minutes; lay the mutton in the
dish, and pour the rice over it.   686.--LOIN of MUTTON STEWED. 
 Remove the skin, bone it, and then roll it; put it in a
stewpan with a pint and a half of water, two dessert-spoonfuls  of pyroligneous acid, a piece of butter,
sweet herbs, and an onion or two; when it has stewed nearly four
hours, strain the gravy, add two spoonfuls of red wine, take up
and serve with jelly sauce.   687.--BREAST OF MUTTON 
 May be stewed in gravy until tender, bone it, score it, season
well with cayenne, black pepper, and salt; boil it, and
while cooking skim the fat from the gravy in which it has been
stewed, slice a few gherkins, and add with a dessertspoonful of
mushroom ketchup; boil it, and pour over the mutton when
dished.   688.--BREAST of MUTTON CRUMBED OR GRATIN. 
 If one breast of mutton, cut off the chine-bone down to the
gristle; if you have a stock pot on, put the breast of mutton
into it, let it boil until tender, then take it up to cool; have ready as for
the crumbed cutlets, adding in the butter and egg a little
chopped mushroom; put it all over the breast with a paste
brush, then put it on a dish and in the oven to brown; the sauce will be
under it when dished.   689.--NECK of MUTTON. 
 This dish is most useful for broth, but may be made a pleasant dish
by judicious cooking. To send it to table merely boiled or baked is to disgust
the partaker of it. When it is cooked as a single dish, first boil it slowly
until nearly done, then having moistened a quantity of bread-crumbs and
sweet herbs, chopped very fine, with the yolk of an egg, let the
mutton be covered with it, and placed in a Dutch or American oven before
the fire, and served when nicely browned. The breast may be cooked in
the same manner.   690.--STEAKS FROM A LOIN of MUTTON   Are done
in the same way, only trimming some of the fat off. Cut thick and stew
instead of frying them.   691.--MUTTON STEAKS. 
 The steaks are cut from the thick or fillet end of a leg of
mutton, and dressed as rump steaks.   692.--MUTTON CHOPS
BROILED. 
 Cut from the best end of the loin, trim them nicely, removing
fat or skin, leaving only enough of the former to make them
palatable; let the fire be very clear before placing the chops on the gridiron,
turn them frequently, taking care that the fork is not put into the lean part
of the chop; season them with pepper and salt, spread a little
fresh butter over each chop when nearly done, and send them to table
upon very hot plates.   693.--MUTTON CHOPS FRIED. 
 The fat in which the chops are to be fried should be boiling when the
chops are put into it. They should be pared of fat and well trimmed
before cooking; they should be turned frequently, and when nicely browned they
will be done; of course if they are very thick judgment must be exercised
respecting the length of time they will occupy in cooking.    Mutton Chop.  An illustration of a piece of meat with a bone in it.  
 694.--CHOPS AS BEEFSTEAKS. 
 Cut thick from a leg of mutton, and rub each steak with a
shalot; boil over a quick fire; rub your dish with shalot; when on the dish
pepper and salt it; send it up quite hot.    695.--MUTTON CUTLETS. 
 Loin chops make the best cutlets. Take off the vertebræ or
thickest end of each bone and about an inch off the top of the
bone; put the chops into a stewpan in which has been previously melted a
little butter seasoned with salt; stew for a short time, but not
until they are brown, as that appearance is accomplished in another manner.
Chop some parsley very fine, add a little thyme, mix it with
sufficient yolk of egg to coat the chops, which will have been suffered
to cool before this addition to them; then powder them with breadcrumbs
over which a pinch of cayenne pepper has been sprinkled; broil them upon
a gridiron over a clear but not a brisk fire; when they are brown dish them;
lemon-juice may be squeezed over them, or the dish in which they are
served may be garnished with thin slices of lemon in halves and
quarters.   696.--MUTTON CUTLETS--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Not a very fat neck, take off the scrag and the breast bones,
leaving the remainder the length you intend the cutlets, then take the chine
bone clean off then the skin and some of the fat; you will
now have the mutton free from bones to cut your cutlets; you will
find you can cut fourteen good cutlets from this trimmed neck without
any hacking; beat each cutlet with your beater, trim them neatly; be
sure to cut out the pac-wax, and leave a little fat to each
cutlet. If for gratin or bread crumbed, prepare some chopped
parsley and shalot, and bread-crumbs; put some butter to
melt in a stewpan, a little of the parsley and . shalot and some yolk
of egg, mix it well up together; put your bread-crumbs on a sheet of
paper, add to it a little salt and pepper; dip each
cutlet into melted butter, put down the bread-crumbs with
your knife, lay them on a buttered sauté-pan until wanted to fry. 
 697.--CUTLETS SAUTÉ. 
 Cut your neck of mutton precisely as for the crumbed cutlets; have
ready a piece of butter melted in your sauté-part; dip each
cutlet both sides in the butter; when required fry them a very
light color, pepper and salt them; when done take them up to
drain from the fat, have some good glaze melted, and glaze each
cutlet both sides; dish them round with or without a rim of mashed
potato.   698.--MUTTON CUTLETS--MAINTENON. 
 Trim the cutlets as for former cutlets; half fry them, then cover them with
fine herbs and bread-crumbs, and season with pepper and
salt. Lay all to cool; have some fresh parsley to add to the
already fried herbs and shalot. When cool, spread the butter and
herbs thick upon each cutlet; sprinkle them with
breadcrumbs; wrap them in buttered foolscap paper, and broil them
over a slow fire until done.   699.--BRAISED CUTLETS.  
 Trim your mutton from the bones as before; then put it whole
into a good braise; let it stew gently until tender; put it aside to get cold;
when so, cut your cutlets as thick as the former; trim them neatly, make them
hot and glaze them.   7OO.--FILLET OF MUTTON. 
 Choose a very large leg; cut from four to five inches in thickness
from the large end of the leg; take out the bone, and in its
place put a highly savory forcemeat; flour and roast it for two
hours. When done, it may be sent to table with the same accompaniments as a
fillet of veal,  with melted butter
poured over it, or a rich brown gravy and red currant
jelly.   701.--FILLET OF MUTTON STEWED. 
 Cut and prepare stuff as above, flour and brown in a little
butter, and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of
gravy; with it a small bundle of sweet herbs, two or three small
onions, or eight or ten small button onions peeled, a teaspoonful
of whole black pepper; stew slowly three hours and a half. The fillet
may be salted, and being half roasted may be stewed with its trimmings. 
 702.--FILLETS IN MARINADE. 
 Cut from the loins of mutton; prepare some carrots,
turnips, onions, and celery, thyme, mace,
cloves, and whole pepper; cut up in thin slices; boil a little
vinegar and water, put your fillets in a deep dish, pour the
vinegar over the roots and mutton when cold; let it lie all
night; next day trim neatly and braise them; take them out, and when required
glaze them, sauce under them.   703.--BLANQUETTE DE MOUTON 
 Is generally made from a former day's saddle of mutton; cutting out
the fillets, trimming it neatly, you will be able to cut clearly pieces the
size of a shilling, which you will put into some good sauce, you may
then put two or three gherkins into it; this is dished better in a
tin.   704.--HARICOT OF MUTTON. 
 Cut a neck or loin of mutton into thin chops; flour and
fry them brown in a small quantity of butter; drain them on a sieve;
then put them into a stewpan and cover them with gravy; add a
carrot, two leeks, a faggot of parsley and thyme;
two or three blades of mace, some allspice, a whole onion,
and two turnips; stew them until the meat is tender; then take
out the chops, strain the gravy, and, skim off all the fat; put a
little butter mixed with flour into the stewpan; stir it until
melted and made quite smooth, adding the gravy by degrees, stirring all
the time; then put in the chops, with some carrots and turnips
ready blanched and cut into pretty shapes, with a dozen silver onions
whole, and also half boiled; season slightly with pepper and
salt, a very little soy, and a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar;
stew the whole gently for a quarter of an hour, and serve them while quite
hot.   705.--MUTTON HARICOT. 
 Take a loin of mutton, cut it into small chops, season it with
ground pepper, allspice and salt; let it stand a night,
and then fry it. Have good gravy well seasoned with flour,
butter, ketchup, and pepper if necessary. Boil
turnips and: carrots, cut them small, and add to the
mutton, stewed in the gravy, with the yolks of hard boiled
eggs and forcemeat balls. Some green pickles will be an
improvement.   706.--HARICOT MUTTON--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Cut into chops the best end of the neck of mutton; fry them a light
brown in fat made boiling-hot before the chops are put into it; some
pieces cut from the neck will be the best, dredge them with
flour; sprinkle them with pepper and salt, put in a
stewpan three parts of a pint of water, an onion stuck with
cloves, parsley, a few spring onions, and a bay-leaf; stew
gently till the meat is nearly done, then add turnips and
carrots cut small; fry a large onion cut in slices brown; add it
to the gravy, which when just done must be thickened; take out the
sweet herbs when the whole; has stewed an hour, and serve. 
 707.--MUTTON KEBOBBED.   Take all the fat out of a loin of
mutton,  and that on the outside also if very
fat, and remove the skin; cut it into steaks; mix a small
nutmeg grated with a little salt and pepper, crumbs, and
herbs; dip the steaks into the yolks of three eggs, and
sprinkle the above mixture all over them; then place the steaks together
as they were before they were cut asunder, tie them, and fasten them on a small
spit; roast them at a quick fire; set a dish under, and baste them with a good
piece of butter and the liquor that comes from the meat, but
throw some more of the above seasoning over. When done enough, take it
up, and lay it in a dish; have half a pint of good gravy ready besides
that in the dish, and put into it two spoonfuls of ketchup, and rub down
a teaspoonful of flour with it; give this a boil, and pour it over the
mutton, but first skim off the fat. Mind to keep the meat
hot, till the gravy is quite ready.   708.--HASHED MUTTON. 
 This is a favorite method of disposing of the cold shoulder, especially if
it should happen to be underdone; cut it into slices, take the bones (if
of a shoulder or leg break them), and put them in a stew-pan with the
trimmings; cover them with water, put in a faggot of thyme,
parsley, whole pepper, allspice, &c., cover down and
simmer for three-quarters of an hour; while the bones, &c., are
stewing, fry an onion brown in a little butter and flour;
put it into the stewpan with the gravy, stew gently twenty minutes,
strain it, lay in the slices of mutton in the stew-pan, pour over them
the strained gravy; pour in a spoonful of walnut ketchup, or any
suitable preferred sauce, season it, simmer until the meat is hot
through, dish and serve. 
 A spoonful of curry powder is sometimes added, and is always a
palatable addition.   709.--IRISH STEW. 
 Cut a neck of mutton as for the haricot; blanch the chops in
water; take and put them into another stewpan with four onions
cut in slices; put to it a little of your second stock, let it boil a
quarter of an hour; have ready some potatoes pared; put them into the
stewpan with the mutton, with salt and pepper; as some
like the potatoes whole and some mashed as to thicken the stew, you must
boil them accordingly; dish the meat round and the vegetables in the
middle.   710.--CHINA CHILO. 
 Mince a pint basin of undressed neck of mutton or leg, and
some of the fat; put two onions, a lettuce, a pint of
green peas, a teaspoonful of popper, four spoonfuls of water, and
two or three ounces of clarified butter into a stewpan closely covered;
simmer two hours, and serve in the middle of a dish of boiled rice; if
cayenne is approved, add a little.   711.--CHINA CHILO--ANOTHER WAY. 
 Chop very fine two small young lettuces, two onions, a pint of
green peas, and a couple of young cucumbers, or the fourth of a
pint of mushrooms; season with a teaspoonful of salt and half a
teaspoonful of pepper; mince the meat of a neck of mutton
uncooked, and mix it with the vegetables in a stewpan; add four table-spoonfuls
of water and two ounces of butter, clarified will be proved the
best; let them well amalgamate over a slow fire; keep them stirred for fifteen
minutes, then cover down close and simmer very slowly for two hours; serve it
in the centre of boiled rice.   712.--MINCED MUTTON. 
 Mince dressed meat very finely, season it, make a very good
gravy, warm the meat up in it, and serve with fried bread
round the dish, or with poached eggs.  
 
 Or: --Mince cold leg of mutton freed from the
skin and fat, warm it with stewed cucumbers, taking care
that it does not burn after the meat is put in.   713.--AU GRATIN, OR
AS SCALLOPS. 
 Mince dressed mutton with a very little fat, season lightly
with pepper and salt, and put into scallop-shells about
half full. Then put potatoes mashed with a little milk, and a very
small bit of butter; smooth with a spoon, and brown in a Dutch oven. 
 714.--AS RISSOLES. 
 Enclose the minced meat in a paste or browning of egg
and crumbs of bread, but season it as if for forcemeat. 
 715.--MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
 A haunch or leg will be the most appropriate. The joint should be
hung as long as it can be with safety, and dressed exactly like a haunch of
venison, and served with the same sauces, but to make the taste more
perfectly resemble that of venison it should, after having been hung to
the turn, be skinned, and laid in a pan with vinegar and water;
two parts of the former to one of the latter, not enough to cover it; put in a
fagot of herbs, a clove of garlic, one or two bay-leaves, a
spoonful of whole pepper, and a couple of onions cut in slices;
let it soak three days, dry it well, hang it for a day and roast as
venison. It may also be put into a stewpan with half a pint of
gravy, and simmered four hours; serve with venison sauce. 
 716.--TO MAKE A SCOTCH HAGGIS. 
 Take the stomach of a sheep. The washing and cleaning is of more
consequence than all, as it will be of a bad color and a bad taste if not well
cleansed; when clean, turn it inside out, then let it lie for a day or two in
salt and water. Blanch the liver, lights, and heart
of the sheep, lay them in cold water, chop all very fine; the
liver you had better grate, chop a pound of the suet very fine,
dry in the oven a pound of oatmeal; mix all this well together, season
with pepper and salt, a little chopped parsley, and a
little chopped onion; then sew up the bag; before you finish sewing it,
add a few spoonfuls of good white stock; put it in a stewpan with a
drainer; boil it in water, keeping it well covered all the time, prick
it all over with a small larding pin to keep it from bursting; it will take
several hours to boil; be careful in taking it up, and let your dish be large
enough.   717.--ROGNON DE MOUTON A LA FRANÇAISE. 
 Take half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, clear them of fat and
skin, and cut them into thin slices; powder them immediately with
sweet herbs in fine powder, parsley which has been chopped,
dried, and powdered, cayenne, and salt: put into a stewpan two
ounces of clarified butter or fresh if the former is not in reach, put
in the slices of kidney, fry them; they will brown very quickly, they
must be done on both sides; dredge flour over them, moisten with
lemon juice; in five minutes the kidneys will be done; lift them
out into a very hot dish around which are laid sippets fried; pour into the
gravy two glasses of champagne, give it a boil, pour it over the
kidneys, and serve. 
 It may here be stated that the French cooks vary constantly the herbs
which they employ, according to any known preference for the palate of those
for whom they cook. Various kinds of wines and sauces may be used for
flavoring, and this is constantly done as much for variety and the ability of
giving a new name to a dish, which is varied only in some such small
feature.    718.--LOIN 0F MUTTON
LIKE VENISON. (French Receipt.) 
 Remove the skin from the joint and bone it, and do it neatly;
lay it in a stew-pan with about a pint of weak broth, an onion
stuck with cloves, two glasses of red wine, and a teaspoonful of
pyroligneous acid; let it boil, put in a bundle of sweet herbs; stew,
turning frequently; add as it progresses a little gravy; some very good
may be made from the bones; it will take from two hours and a half to
three hours.   719.--TO DEESS MUTTON HAMS. 
 Soak the ham for five or six hours in cold spring water,
unless it has only recently been cured, then one hour will suffice; put it into
cold water, boil gently; it will be done in two hours and a half. It is
eaten cold.   720.--MUTTON KIDNEYS BROILED. 
 Skin and spit without parting asunder, skewer them through the outer
edge and keep them flat, lay the opened sides first to the fire, which should
be clear and brisk, in four minutes turn them, sprinkle with salt and
cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterwards, take
them from the fire, put a piece of butter inside them, squeeze some
lemon juice over them, and serve as hot as possible. 
 721.--SHEEP'S TONGUES STEWED. 
 Put them into cold water and let them boil; when they are
sufficiently tender to remove the skin easily, take them out, split
them, and lay them in a stewpan with enough good gravy to cover them.
Chop parsley, and mushroom, with a little eschalot finely,
work a lump of butter with it, add pepper and salt to
flavor; stew them in the gravy until the tongues are tender, lay
them in a dish, strain the gravy and pour it hot over the
tongues, and serve.   722.--CÔTELETTES À LA MAINTENON.
(Ude's Eeoeipt.) 
 Pare the chops neatly. Chop fine some sweet herbs, such as
parsley, shalots, and mushrooms, which fry in a little
butter. When they are done, fry the chops a little in that
seasoning till nearly done, let them cool in the herbs; then have
some strong foolscap paper cut in the form of the cutlet, put
some of the herbs and ham chopped very fine, if you have it ready
in the larder; put the cutlets in and a little of the herbs over them;
wrap them in the paper, and broil them on a very clean gridiron and very
equal fire till of a good color; serve them very hot, and a little Italian
sauce separate. Mind to wipe the grease with a clean towel before
serving them.   723.--MUTTON CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE, OR ONION
SAUCE. 
 Take a neck of mutton, and cut the chops one by one without
flattening them; cut off some of the flat bone at the extremity of the
chops. Put them into a stewpan with all the parings, together with the parings
of the onions to make the soubise. Season the whole well with
carrots, a bunch of parsley, and green onions,
salt, and a very small quantity of spice, &c.; throw in four
or five spoonfuls of good broth to braize them. When done, drain them,
and let them cool. Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to a
glaze. Next pare the chops nicely, and put them with the glaze. This being
completed, dish them miroton way, and pour the soubise or onion sauce
into the middle. 
 Some persons take two necks of mutton, cut two bones to each
chop, lard them with bacon, and braize them as above; but
mutton, being in general fat, is better without being larded.
With  regard to the two bones, you must
take care not to let them be too thick; if they are too thick you cannot dish
them well.   724.--ANOTHER, AND A MUCH BETTER METHOD OF PREPARING CUTLETS
À LA SOUBISE.   Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than when you
wish to broil them. Pare them nicely, and put them into a stew-pan, where they
may all lie flat. Put an onion or two, a few carrots, a little
salt, a bundle of parsley and green onions seasoned, four
or five spoonfuls of good consomme, and sweat the whole till it is entirely
done. Then take out the roots, put in a little glaze, and reduce over a large
fire. When entirely boiled down to a glaze, take them off the fire for a few
minutes, let the cutlets settle in the glaze, take out the trimmings and
vegetables, turn over the cutlets in the glaze, and take out the grease
or fat, lay them on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up before
they can get dry.--This method is preferable to the other. You must not in
either case lard your chops with bacon. These cutlets may be
served up with all sorts of puree of vegetables.   725.--FOR CÔTELETTES DE
MOUTON EN RAGOÛT. 
 Take off all the fat from the cutlets, dredge the meat with
flour, and put them into a stewpan with the fat melted, a bundle
of sweet herbs, and two shalots minced; let them brown, then strain the
gravy, add a glass of wine, and one of good sauce;
thicken, if necessary, with a little roux, and let the whole stew until very
tender.   726.--TO DRESS CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA POLONAISE. 
 Remove all the fat, put the meat into a covered stewpan, with
a carrot and a turnip sliced, two onions, a bundle of
sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, and enough
broth to moisten the whole; let it stew very gently until the
meat is perfectly done, then take it out, strain the gravy, put
it over a brisk fire, and reduce it to a glaze; then cover the cutlets with the
glaze, and serve them up with tomato-sauce, or a vegetable pur6e of any
kind.    Mutton Cutlets.  An illustration of a piece of meat on a platter with garnish in the middle/     727.--FOR CÔTELETTES
À LA MAINTENON. 
 Cut and trim cutlets from a neck or loin of mutton; chop very
finely a quantity of parsley, a little thyme, and a shalot; put
them with butter into a stew-pan, and fry the chops a little; then take
out the chops; allow them to cool; add to the herbs some fresh
parsley chopped and a few crumbs of bread, and seasoning:
spread this over the cutlets with a knife, wrap them in buttered paper,
and broil them over a slow fire. Serve a sauce piquant in a boat. 
 
 Or: --Cut them handsomely from the loin or
back end of the neck; half fry them, and then cover them with,
herbs, crumbs of bread, and seasoning; lay this on very
thickly, and put them into a stewpan with a little gravy; stew until
tender, then wrap them in writing-paper, and finish them on the
gridiron.   728.--CÔTELETTES AUX HARICOTS VERTS. 
 Having dressed French beans as usual, drain the water from
them, and simmer them with pepper and salt in a good piece of
butter. A few minutes before serving add the beaten yolk of an
egg, and shake the pan over the fire; but they must not  boil. In the mean time have ready three mutton
cutlets, neatly trimmed, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a few
crumbs, and nicely fried; and serve them on the French beans. 
 729.--SCRAGS OF MUTTON À LA SAINTE MENEHOULD.   Order the narrow
part of a neck of small mutton to be cut off before the
sheep be divided; which leaves the two scrags united. Soak in warm
water, then hang it two days; lay it in a stewpot, with slices of fat
bacon over and under, two pounds of scrag of veal, three large
carrots, three onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, two
bay-leaves, and a table-spoonful of whole white pepper; cover the whole
with beef broth, and simmer four hours. Drain the gravy from the
meat, which cover on all sides with crumbs of bread mixed with
pepper and salt, and brown it with a salamander. In the mean time
boil the gravy, uncovered, very quickly, having strained it first, and
serve in the dish; add salt. Serve in the dish endive, tomato
sauce, or stewed spinach.   780.--MUTTON KIDNEYS. 
 Split, pepper, and broil them, broiling the cut side first, which
will make a cup for the gravy when the outer part is turned to the fire.
Chop some parsley very fine, mix it well with a little fresh
butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt, and
put a little on each, A sheep's heart may be split open, and broiled in
the same way. 
 With a very sharp knife cut mutton kidneys in the thinnest possible
slices; flour, and fry quickly till they are quite crisp. While frying,
add pepper and salt. Serve them in a good gravy, to which
a bit of garlic has given a very slight flavor.   731.--ROGNONS, AU
VIN DE CHAMPAGNE. 
 Slice or mince them, and fry them with a little chopped parsley and
eschalot until they become of a light brown, seasoning them with
pepper and salt; then dust them with flour, moisten them
with a little strong gravy and a glass of Champagne, and let them
stew for a few moments.   782.--SHEEP'S TAILS AND KIDNEYS. 
 Cut the tails, boil them for fifteen minutes, then put them into a stewpan
with half a pint of gravy, an onion stuck with cloves, a
little salt, and cayenne pepper. Stew till tender, strain the
gravy, thicken it with flour and butter, and add the
juice of half a lemon. Boil until the whole is very smooth, broil
half a dozen kidneys, and place them in the middle of a dish with the
tails and sauce round. 
 These are the most tasty modes, but kidneys, when meant for
breakfast, are usually broiled upon the gridiron, without parsley or
lemon; being only split open, well peppered, and a bit of butter
put upon them when broiled. They must not be much done, and may be brought to
the table in less than ten minutes. If not quite hot, they are not worth
eating.   733.--MUTTON RUMPS AND KIDNEYS. 
 Stew six rumps in some good mutton-gravy half an hour; then
take them up, and let them stand to cool. Clear the gravy from the
fat; and put into it four ounces of boiled rice, an onion
stuck with cloves, and a blade of mace; boil them till the
rice is thick. Wash the rumps with yolks of eggs well
beaten; and strew over them crumbs of bread, a little pepper and
salt, chopped parsley and thyme, and grated
lemon-peel. Fry in butter of a fine brown. While the
rumps are stewing lard the kidneys, and put them to roast
in a Dutch oven. When the rumps are fried, the grease must be
drained before they are put on  the dish, and the
pan being cleared likewise from the fat, warm the rice in it. Lay
the latter on the dish; the rumps put round on the rice, the
narrow ends towards the middle, and the kidneys between. Garnish with
hard eggs cut in half, the white being left on; or with
different-colored pickles.   784.--SHEEP'S HEAD.--(English.) 
 Though this may be seen in every part of London inhabited by the working
classes, and may be procured ready cooked, I prefer always to prepare it at
home, and very good it is. Choose a fine one. as fat as possible, and
put it into a gallon of water to disgorge for two hours; wash it well,
saw it in two from the top, take out the brain, cut away part of the
uncovered part of the skull, and also the ends of the jaws; wash it well, put
into the stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, two turnips
cut in slices, a little celery, four cloves, a bouquet of four
sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, one ounce of salt, a quarter of an
ounce of pepper, three quarts of water; set on the fire; when
near boiling, add half a teacupful of pearl or Scotch barley; let it
simmer for three hours, or till tender, which try with a fork; take out
vegetables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim off the fat, and pour all
into tureen. Or, lay the head on a dish, and serve with either onion
sauce over, parsley and butter, or any sharp sauce; or
egg and bread-crumb it over, put it in an oven for half an hour
till getting a nice yellow color, and serve with sharp sauce under. Or,
with the brain, thus: having boiled the brain for ten minutes in
a little vinegar, salt, and water, cut it in pieces, warm
it in parsley and butter, season it a little, and put it under
the head and serve.   735.--SHEEP'S HEADS, HEARTS,
TAILS, AND TONGUES. 
 A great variety of excellent dishes may be made from 
 a sheep's head,  which in India, where
veal is not so easily procurable, answers all the purposes for mock
turtle, rolled head, rich hash, or ragoût: the bones
make excellent jelly, either savory or sweet. Parboil the
head; cut the meat from the bone; stew the former in a
little of the liquor until quite tender; send it to table with a glass of
wine in the sauce, forcemeat-balls and brain-cakes
for garnish; or roll up the pieces seasoned in the inside with a thick covering
of chopped herbs well seasoned; brush the outside with yolk of
egg; dredge it with bread-crumbs; fry it; and send to table with a
rich gravy made of the bones and pickles warmed up in it.
   Take a 
 sheep's heart  and stuff it throughout, using
a considerable quantity of chopped bacon in the stuffing; half
boil it, and when cooled a little rub it over with pepper and
salt, and wrap it in paste in the shape of a cone. Rub the
paste over with the yolk of an egg, and strew vermicelli
loosely over it. Set it with the broad end downwards, and bake it in the oven.
When baked, send it to table with gravy sauce.   736.--SHEEP'S
TAILS AND TONGUES. 
 Take three tails and three tongues, cut the tails in half and split
the tongues. Stew them gently for three hours in as much water as
will cover them, adding three spoonfuls of vinegar, three onions,
a teaspoonful of mixed spices, and one of salt: these ingredients
to be put in after the pot has been skimmed. When the tails, &c., are very
tender, take them out, score them, dip them in drawn butter, roll them
in grated bread-crumbs, and let them lie for a few minutes, then put on
more butter with a knife, and additional bread-crumbs, which
latter should be slightly seasoned; brown them before the fire. Strain the
gravy, enrich it with butter, squeeze lemon juice over the
tongues and tails, and serve them in the gravy.    737.--SHEEP'S TROTTERS. 
 Boil the trotters, or rather stew them gently, for several hours, until the
bones will come out. The liquor they are boiled in will make excellent
stock or jelly. Take out the bones without injury to the
skin, stuff them with a fine forcemeat; stew them for half an
hour in some of the stock, which must be well flavored with
onion, seasoning, and a little sauce; take out the
trotters, strain the sauce, reduce it to a glaze, and brush it over the
feet. Serve with any stewed vegetable. 
 
 Or: --Prepare them in the same way, and dip them in a
batter and fry them. The paste, or batter, for frying, is best made
thus: mix four spoonfuls of flour with one of olive-oil, and a
sufficient quantity of beer to make it of the proper thickness; then add
the whites of two eggs well beaten and a little salt. Serve with
tomato sauce. 
 
 Or: --Simply boil them, and eat them cold with
oil and vinegar.   738.--SHEEP'S TROTTEBS.--(Soyer.)   I
get a dozen of them from the tripe-butcher, all cleaned and ready, and
beg of him to extract the long bone from them. I put a quarter of
a pound of beef or mutton-suet in a stewpan, with two
onions and one carrot sliced, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of
thyme, one ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper;
put on the fire, and cook five minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of flour,
and stir it round; add two quarts and a half of water, then put in the
feet, stir till boiling; simmer for nearly three hours, or until the
feet are perfectly tender; when done, take them out, and lay on a sieve;
take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt,
the same of flour, a quarter of one of pepper, a little grated
nutmeg, the juice of a lemon; mix all these well together on a
plate with the back of a spoon; put the feet with a gill of milk
in a stewpan on the fire; when very hot, put in the butter, stir
continually till melted, having previously well mixed two yolks of eggs
with five table-spoonfuls of milk, which put in the stewpan; keep moving
the pan round over the fire continually for one minute, serve in a very hot
dish with croutons of fried bread cut in triangular pieces round the
dish. The stock may be used for any puree or thick soup.   789.--FRENCH
RAGOUT OF MUTTON.   Take about two pounds of the scrag of the neck,
breast, chump, or any other part, with as little fat as possible,
cut it into pieces of about two inches square, put into a pan two ounces of
butter, or good fat; when melted, add two table-spoonfuls of
flour, stir with a wooden spoon till forming a brownish roux, add the
meat, and stir it round for twenty minutes; add a little water,
but not enough to cover the meat; one salt-spoonful of
pepper, four ditto of salt, and four ditto of sugar, a
bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, stir till boiling, set it to simmer.
Having previously peeled a few turnips, cut in large dice one inch
square, about thirty pieces, put some fat in the fryingpan, and fry the
turnips until rather brown, take them out, and put them in a stewpan
with the meat when it is done, which will be in about one hour from the
time it was put on; when ready to serve, take out the meat and
turnips, squeeze the bouquet, which throw away, skim off the fat;
if too thick, add a little broth or water; or, if too thin, boil
it a little more, dish it up by placing the pieces in a circle and the
turnips in the centre, sauce over, and serve very hot--(if not,
it is spoiled.) For those who like it, a small piece of scraped garlic
may be added. Onions,  carrots,
peas, &c., may be used in place of the turnips. This is a
very favorite dish in France; I learnt it from an old French
émigré, who used to visit us about ten years since. When I have
company, I use the chops of the neck, dress them in a crown, placing the
vegetables in the centre; I find them very much liked. I have at some houses
partaken of harico-mutton which has been tolerably good, but nothing in
flavor to this plan. If there is any left, it is good warmed again, or even
cold.   740.--IRISH STEW. 
 Cut up about two pounds of the neck of the mutton into small
cutlets, which put into a proper sized stewpan with some of the fat of
the mutton; season it with half a table-spoonful of salt, a
quarter of an ounce of pepper, the same of sugar, six
middle-sized onions, a quart of water; set them to boil and
simmer for half an hour, then add six middling-sized potatoes, cut them in
halves or quarters, stir it together, and let it stew gently for about one hour
longer; if too fast, remove it from the top, but if well done the potatoes
will absorb all of it, and eat very delicate; any other part of the
mutton may be served in the same way.   741.--TURESICUS. 
 Mince very fine part of a cold boiled leg of mutton, and mix it with
rice, season it very high with black pepper, add salt, and
make it into balls the size of a cabbage-leaf. 
 Tie each ball separately in a cabbage-leaf; boil it about half an
hour, and serve immediately, very hot.   742.--A SCOTCH HAGGIS. 
 Take the stomach of a sheep; wash it with cold water until
perfectly clean; then turn it inside out, scald it, scrape it with a knife
quickly, and then put it into cold salt and water till wanted.
Take the liver, lights, and heart, and parboil them; grate
the liver, and mince the other parts quite fine; mince also half a pound
of suet, three or four onions, toast half a pound of round
oatmeal cakes before the fire, and pound them into powder, which is to
be thickly sprinkled over the mince; mix all well together; season with
pepper and salt; then fill the bag, and before sewing it up put
in a large teacupful of any kind of strong broth or gravy. Put
the bag, neatly sewed up, in a pan with enough of boiling water to cover
it, and a small plate under it; prick over with a needle to prevent it
bursting, and let it boil four or five hours, keeping the haggis constantly
covered with boiling water.   743.--THE ENGLISH MODE IS 
 To mince the heart, the tongue, the kidneys, and a part
of the liver of the sheep, with a third of its weight in fat
bacon, two anchovies chopped small, and the crumb of a penny-roll
grated, a salt-spoonful of grated lemon-peel, pepper,
salt, two eggs beaten, and a glass of wine; mix all well
together; butter and mould; put in the mixture, and let it boil for two
hours: or it may be boiled in a veal caul.   744.--A CAMP DISH. 
 Take any joint of mutton, put it into a pot with a good many
onions cut small, and as many vegetables as can be obtained to add to
it; two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, five of port wine; season it
with black and red pepper; add a spoonful of flour, and, if at
hand, four dessert-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce and essence of
anchovies. Cover the meat with water, and let it stew one and
a half hour; it should be stirred frequently to prevent  it from burning, as there should be only water
sufficient to cook it. Should there be a steam apparatus do not add the
water. This is an excellent dish in camp, and it also suits a family
where there are many persons to be fed from one joint. A fowl may be
added to or substituted for the mutton.   745.--SHEEP'S TONGUES
WITH TURNIPS. 
 Take eight tongues of an equal size; let them disgorge in a little
water and flour, and next blanch them. When thoroughly blanched,
put them in a stew-pan, to braise them. In case you should have a braise of
beef, or of mutton, or any others, they will all equally answer
the purpose for sheep's tongues; when they are done, peel them and cut
them in two. Dish them miroton way, and cover them with the sauce of the
haricot, the turnips of course being put in the middle. It is customary
in French cookery to call any thing made with turnips haricot. 
 746.--THE SAME WITH CABBAGE LETTUCES. 
 The tongues are to be braised as above, the same as those you wish to
cook in any way whatever. Take a dozen and a half of good
cabbage-lettuces, wash them very clean and blanch them. When they are
cold and you have squeezed all the water out of them, open them in two,
take off the stalks, powder a little salt and pepper over them;
then shut them and give them a good form; mark them in a stew-pan, surrounded
with layers of bacon; moisten them with a little braise, or any thing to
give them a good taste; otherwise take the pot-top, with a little broth
and salt. When the lettuces are quife done, drain them, and squeeze them
in a cloth to extract the grease. Dish them in rosettes, a
tongue, a lettuce, and so on successively. Put a large
tongue in the middle, to improve the look of the rosette. Another time
cut the tongues in two, and dish them miroton way, that is, one half of
a tongue, and lettuce, alternately. In this case, put a
jardiniere in the middle, and cover both the tongues and the
lettuce with the Espagnole (Spanish sauce.) This is likewise a
common dish in a first course.   747.--MUSETTE OF MUTTON WITH ENDIVE.
(MUTTON BAGPIPE WITH ENDIVE.)
Take a shoulder of mutton that has been kept for some while;
bone it without taking off the thin skin that is found near the
joint; powder it over with a little pepper and salt. Then pass a
piece of packthread round, as tailors do round a button, fasten the packthread,
and mould the shoulder of mutton quite round. You must preserve
the knuckle so that it may resemble a bagpipe. Braise it, and season it well.
After having drained and glazed it, send it up with either endive or
sorrel. 
 N. B. It may also be stuffed and larded, and a floweret larded in the top
part, and sent up with white beans à la Lyonnaise. This is also
a common dish.     Meat Safe, of wood and wire.   An illustration of a cabinet with long legs and wire screening over openings.  

  LAMB. 

 748.--FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
This is the favorite and indeed the best joint. Do not put it too near the
fire at first, when it gets heated baste it well; the fire should be quick,
clear, but not  fierce; the usual weight of a
fore-quarter is between nine and eleven pounds, it will take two hours; when it
is done, separate the shoulder from the ribs, but before it is quite
taken off lay under a large lump of butter, squeeze a lemon, and
season with pepper and salt; let it remain long enough to quite
melt the butter, then remove the shoulder and lay it on another
dish.    Fore-Quarter of Lamb.  An illustration of a skinned front carcass of a lamb.      749.--SADDLE OF
LAMB. 
 Roast it quickly, but be very careful neither to scorch it nor to take it
from the fire until it is done; baste with the fat and gravy
which fall from it, and in an hour and three-quarters it will be done, unless
larger than common, and then it will take two hours; serve with mint and
cucumber sauce.   750.--TO ROAST A LEG of LAMB. 
 The rules laid down for roasting mutton must be scrupulously observed
with respect to lamb; let it roast gradually, and commence a distance
from the fire; a leg of five pounds will take an hour and a quarter, one
of six pounds will take an hour and a half.   751.--TO BOIL A LEG of
LAMB. 
 Put it in sufficient clear cold soft water to cover it let it remain
half an hour, a table-spoonful of vinegar or half a handful of
salt may be thrown in; put it into a thin white cloth which has
been floured, and boil it in enough water to cover it. A
good-sized bundle of sweet herbs may be thrown into the saucepan; if six
pounds it will be done in an hour and a half; serve with spinach or
French beans; if sent to table cold lay handsome sprigs of
parsley about it tastefully; it may, while hot, be garnished with
parsley, with thin slices of lemon laid round the dish.   752.--A
SHOULDER OF LAMB 
 Will be found best cooked when done with the fore-quarter, but if roasted
singly will take an hour.   758.--SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED.  
 Cut your lardons small, of fine white fat bacon, cover them with
pounded mixed spices, cayenne pepper, and salt;
bone the shoulder of lamb, lard the under side, roll the
joint, and bind it with narrow white tape; braise it, and when done
glaze it. Serve it on mushroom sauce; any sauce applicable to
lamb will serve except mint sauce, which should not be eaten with
this dish.   754.--TO GRILL A LOIN of LAMB. 
 Boil half an hour, take it out and score it like pork, brush it all
over with well beaten yolk of eggs, and powder over it
bread-crumbs mixed with minced parsley, put it into an American
oven and roast it until brown; serve with melted butter and lemon
pickle, or tomato sauce, the last especially, if cold. A shoulder
and breast may be dressed in the same manner.   755.--SHOULDER OF
LAMB FORCED AND BRAISED. 
 Take out the bone from the shoulder; you must be very particular and
careful in removing the blade bone that you do not cut a hole through
the skin; when you have done it fill up the vacancy with some good
veal forcemeat, cover it with fat bacon or ham; then put
it into a good braise and let it boil gently for about an hour, when required
glaze it well; you  can make it after you have put
in the forcemeat and sewed up the cut part, either as a shoulder of
lamb, or form it into a swan by adding the shank bone for a
neck, and form the beak or bill with paste; if plain, put a
paper ruffle or ornamented silver skewer; the sauce as may be
approved of, as peas, or spinach, or puree, turnips, or
French beans, or truffles, or mushrooms.   756.--STEWED
LOIN of LAMB. 
 The loin may be stewed whole or in steaks; in the former the
flap being secured by a skewer, is put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
pound of butter, and covered down close; let it simmer one hour, then
turn it, let it simmer again for an hour and a quarter, and then have ready
some rich brown gravy hot, lift out the meat, pour the
gravy over it, and send it to table with mint sauce, a
lettuce, and a few radishes and spring onions. 
 757.--NECK of LAMB À LA JARDINERE. 
 Plain roast the neck, as you would that of mutton; and whilst
it is roasting, cut one middle-sized carrot in small dice, the same
quantity of turnip, and thirty button onions; wash all in cold
water, put them in a small stewpan, with one ounce of butter and
half a teaspoonful of sugar, place on the fire till no liquid remains in
the stewpan; add to it a gill of brown sauce, half a one of
broth, add a small bouquet of parsley and bay-leaf; after once
boiling, set it to simmer on the corner of the stove, skim off all the
fat; when ready, taste if very palatable; it must be a nice brown color,
and the sauce lightly adhere to the back of the spoon; serve on the
dish, place the neck over; white sauce maybe used instead of
brown, only add a spoonful of liaison when ready to serve. The sauce is
equally good with almost any kind of meat, game, and poultry; it
will often be referred to, therefore be particular in making it; you can shape
the vegetables in twenty different ways, by using either green peas,
French beans, or Brussels sprouts; sprue-grass may be added, when
in season, but should be boiled separately, and added just previous to
serving.   758.--SADDLE OF LAMB, RUSSIAN FASHION. 
 Roast a small saddle of lamb, keeping it pale; having had it covered
with paper, take ten good-sized boiled potatoes, mash them with about
two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of
pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little grated
nutmeg; mix all well together with a fork, adding half a gill of
milk and one egg; when cold, roll them into a long shape the size
of plover's eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, and fry light
colored; dress the saddle, surround it with the potatoes, make a
sauce of melted butter and maitre d'hdtel butter, put in
it, and pour it round, and serve. All joints of lamb can be dressed
thus.   759.--LEG OR SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH PEAS. 
 These must be plain roasted; when done, serve with peas in the bottom
of the dish.   760.--LEG OR SHOULDER WITH FRENCH BEANS. 
 Plain roast as before; prepare beans as directed.   761.--BOILED LEG
OF LAMB WITH SPINACH. 
 Procure a very small leg, and cut the end of the knuckle-bone,
tie it up in a cloth and place it in cold water, with two ounces of
salt; boil it gently according to size; when done, remove the cloth, and
dish it up with spinach under it, prepared as directed. 
 (See)  VEGETABLES.  
 762.--SHOULDER OF LAMB BRAISED. 
 Take the blade bone from a shoulder of lamb, and have ready
ten long strips of fat bacon, which season rather highly with
pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; place
the pieces, one after the other, in your larding needle, which draw quickly
through the fleshy part of the shoulder, leaving the bacon in the
meat; after having used all the bacon, roll the meat
round, and tie it up with a piece of string; then put it into a stewpan
containing a quarter of a pound of butter, over a slow fire, stirring it
occasionally until of a light golden color, pour in a quart of water or
broth, and add forty button onions and a bunch of parsley;
let simmer very slowly until the onions are quite tender, then take up
the meat, pull off the string, and dress it upon a dish with the
onions round; take the parsley out of the liquor, carefully skim
off all the fat, and reduce it until forming a thinnish glaze, when pour
it over the meat and serve. Mushrooms may be added ten minutes
before sending to table.   763.--BREAST of LAMB BRAISED, BROILED. 
 Saw off the breast from the ribs of lamb, leaving the
neck of sufficient size to roast, or for cutlets; then put two
onions, half a carrot, and the same of turnip, cut into
thin slices, in a stewpan with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs of parsley
and thyme, half an ounce of salt, and three pints of
water; lay in the breast, which let simmer until tender, and the
bones leave with facility; take it from the stewpan, pull out all the
bones, and press it between two dishes; when cold, season with a little
salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb it lightly
over, and broil gently (over a moderate fire) of a nice yellowish color,
turning it very carefully; when sufficiently browned upon one side, serve with
plain gravy in the dish, and mint sauce separately, or with
stewed peas or any other vegetable sauce; tomato sauce is
likewise very good served with it.   764.--LAMB'S HEAD. 
 Parboil the head, rub it over with yolk of eggs, cover it
thickly with chopped herbs, crumbs of bread, and clarified
butter, and put it into a Dutch oven before the fire. Mince the
heart and the liver very finely, and stew them in a little good
gravy, adding a spoonful of lemon-pickle; make some
forcemeat-balls and brain-cakes, and fry them; place the mince in
the dish with the head upon it, and garnish with the balls,
brain-cakes, and lemon sliced, or pickles. 
 765.--LAMB'S FRY. 
 Take about a pound and boil for ten minutes in half a gallon of
water, take it out and dry on a cloth; have some fresh crumbs, mix with
them half a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper;
egg the fry lightly with a paste-brush, dip it in the crumbs, fry
for five minutes, serve very hot on a clean napkin in a dish, with fried
parsley over.   766.--LAMB'S HEAD WITH HOLLANDAISE. 
 If you want it very white, make stock as for sheep's
feet, put it to stew, when done lay on dish with about twelve new
potatoes (boiled) round it, pour over some cream-sauce, and
serve.   767.--LAMB'S HEAD WITH BRAIN OR LIVER. 
 Blanch the brain or liver, and mince them as for sheep's
head, introducing only the yolk of an egg; mix with a little
milk, stir in quickly, add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley,
the juice of half a lemon, lay it on the dish with the
head over, and serve.   768.--TO
BONE A QUARTER OF LAMB. 
 Take the fore quarter, remove the shoulder and take out the bone;
stuff it  with fine forcemeat, and skewer
it in a handsome shape. Braise it with two ounces of butter, add a
teacupful of water, stirring the braise until the gravy is drawn.
Then cut the brisket into pieces, and stew them in white gravy; thicken
it with cream and eggs so that it shall be very white; cut
the long bones into chops and fry them; thicken the gravy of the
braise, add to it haricots, minced truffles, or any thing else of
vegetable in season. Place the shoulder in the centre of a dish with its own
sauce, lay the brisket covered with white sauce round it, and
place the fried chops at the edge.   769.--LAMB À L'ESPAGNOLE. 
 An entire lamb is frequently roasted in the Peninsula, without any
other preparation than merely skinning it, taking out the fry, and cutting off
the feet. It is then, however, extremely young--not more than perhaps
six weeks or two months old; the bones eat like gristle, and the
meat is singularly delicate. It is sometimes, but only rarely, stuffed
with bread and sweet herbs, and served with bread-sauce;
but more frequently eaten with lemon-juice.   770.--AU PASCAL. 
 May be a little older, and is also roasted whole, but boned from the
neck up to the shoulders, and the legs fixed into the body, which
is then covered with slices of bacon, kept on with small skewers, or
tied with twine; all, however, being removed when the meat is nearly
done. Both should be placed in a cradle-spit, and will take about two hours in
roasting.   771--TO FRICASSEE LAMB-STONES WITHOUT ANY ADDITION. 
 Skin, wash, and parboil, and then cut them in half, dry and
flour them; fry of a beautiful brown in hog's lard. Serve with
the following sauce: thicken some veal gravy with a bit of
flour and butter, and then add to it a slice of lemon, a
large spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful of
lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg
beaten well in two large spoonfuls of thick cream. Put this over the
fire, and stir it well till it is hot and looks white: do not let it
boil, or it will curdle. Then put in the fry, and shake it about for a minute
or two. Serve in a very hot dish.   772.--TO STEW A BEEAST OF LAMB. 
 Cut it into pieces, pepper and salt well, stew in sufficient
gravy to cover the meat until tender, then thicken the
sauce, pour in a glass of sherry, serve on a dish of stewed
mushrooms.   773.--CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE LAMB. 
 Get two necks of lamb of the same size, take off the
chine-bone, not leaving a particle of bone adhering to the
ribs, or it cannot be carved clean down between the bones when at
table; blanch them a few minutes, put them to cool, then scrape about one inch
down from the ends of the ribs between each bone, the
skin, and fat; then put the bones to meet regularly, and
put one between the other, which will form a chevaux-de-frise; braise them the
same as the former; when done, glaze the fat and meat but not the
white rib bones: any of the sauces named or cucumbers. 
 774.--CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE WITH LAMB SWEETBEEADS. 
 Do the same as before; when it is done and glazed, have ready some good
lamb sweetbreads, about six larded ones and glazed, put them on the top
between the bones, when the two necks are put together. 
 775.--BLANQUETTE D'AGNEAU À LA PRO-VENQALE. 
 Of the best end of the brisket take  two or
three pounds, cut it into dice of four inches, rinse them in clear
water, wipe them with a cloth, and flour them; take two ounces of
the fat of boiled bacon, five of fresh butter, chop some
parsley, and boil ten minutes; put in the lamb dice, cut up an
onion small, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and
season with pepper and salt; let it simmer gradually for two
hours; beat up the yolk of three eggs, and add them to the gravy;
keep the pan moving about the fire for three minutes: dish and serve. 
 776.--LAMB CHOPS. 
 Lamb chops and lamb cutlets are cooked in the same manner as
mutton chops and cutlets, but require more care in the cooking; they are
sent to table with various garnishes, and arranged in many forms, frequently
accompanied with a puree of vegetables, or ranged round a pyramid of mashed
potatoes; the most simple manner is to garnish with crisped
parsley.   777.--ANOTHER. 
 Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it half an inch thick, retaining
the kidney in its place; dip them into egg and
breadcrumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. 
 When chops are made from a breast of lamb, the red bone at the
edge of the breast should be cut off, and the breast parboiled in
water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three
onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting
between every second or third bone, and preparing them, in every
respect, as the last.   If 
 brown,  season them with pepper, salt,
nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley; but dip
them first into egg; fry them quickly. Thicken some gravy with a
little flour and butter, and add to it a spoonful of port
wine.   778.--SWEETBREADS. 
 Two good throat sweetbreads or three will make an entrée;
blanch them until fit to eat, take them up and lay them in cold water;
when cold dry them well, egg and bread-crumb them with or without
herbs; put them on a dish and brown them in the oven; mushroom
sauce, or endives, or sorrel, or spinach, or tomato
will do if approved of.   779.--SWEETBEEADS FRICASSEED, WHITE. 
 Blanch, and cut them in slices. To a pint of veal gravy put a
thickening of flour and butter, a table-spoonful of cream,
half a teaspoonful of mushroom powder, grated lemon-peel and
nutmeg, and white pepper, to flavor. Stew ten minutes, add the
sweetbreads, let them simmer twenty minutes. Dish, add salt, thin
pieces of lemon-peel; mix up, and serve.   730.--SWEETBEEADS
FRICASSEED, BROWN. 
 Cut them in small pieces, flour, and fry them. When a good brown,
pour over them a pint of good beef gravy, highly seasoned; stew gently
until the sweetbreads are tender. Add a little flour and
butter to thicken; add truffled and mushroom ketchup to flavor;
morels or mushrooms may be substituted, or all may be cooked with the
sweetbreads.   781.--TO STEW SWEETBREADS--RIS DE VEAU. 
 Make a forcemeat of the tenderest parts of boiled or roast
fowl, some bacon, a little parsley chopped, a little
thyme, lemon-peel, the yolks of two eggs, cayenne
pepper, and nutmeg. Lay the sweetbreads in a pan, upon a
layer of slices of veal, cover them with slices of bacon, put in
a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion sliced, a little mace,
and pepper  and salt. Pour in a
quart of good broth, and stew for two hours; remove them, and reduce by
boiling the broth to a fourth: heat the sweetbreads in it,
garnish with lemon in slices.   782.--SWEETBEEADS LARDED--A LA DAUBE. 
 Blanch and lard them with bacon, put them into a stewpan with
a pint of veal broth; add a little browning, with the juice of
half a lemon. Stew until tender; thicken the gravy with a little
flour and butter. Lay bunches of boiled celery round the
dish when you serve.   783.--PIEDS D' AGNEAU. 
 Have six lambs' feet scalded, take out the shank-bone
very carefully, so as not to cut or break the skin; soak for three hours
in cold water; put them in a stew-pan with cold water and the
juice of two lemons; let it boil for ten minutes, take out the
feet, throw them into cold water, cut off the bones of the
cleft part of the foot, and remove the curl of hair that lies in the
cleft. Boil very gently for three or more hours in some poclee (which see), to
keep them very white. Serve with asparagus, peas, and
mushroom, or white cucumber sauce.   784.--HEART
SWEETBEEADS LARDED WITH BACON OR TRUFFLES. 
 The same quantity, either one larded and two plain, or two if fine larded
with bacon; when blanched for two or three minutes, put them in a small
dish or stewpan, with a little stock; cover them over, and boil them
either in the oven or over the fire for about twenty minutes; take them up and
glaze them several times, keeping them hot; lamb sweetbreads will take
eight for a dish, and require to be neatly trimmed, cutting away the pipe and
dish them on a rim of forcemeat or mashed potatoes, or
spinach.   785.--SWEETBREADS AS CUTLETS. 
 If you cannot get heart sweetbreads, you must use the throat. Blanch
them for about ten minutes, then put them to cool into cold water; take
them out and dry them in a cloth, then cut longways, twelve or fourteen pieces
for cutlets, making them a nice shape; if you wish them to be white
saut6 cutlets, you must put some butter or lard in your
cutlet-pan, a juice of lemon, a little white pepper, and
salt; do not color them, take them up and lay them upon white
paper to soak up the grease from them; dish them round upon a
tureen, pouring the sauce in the middle.   786.--ROAST SWEETBEEAD. 
 Boil sweetbreads, either heart or throat, trim them and dry
them, then egg and bread-crumb them, brown them before the fire
or in the oven; put good clear gravy under them, and
water-cresses, as a garnish.   787.--SWEETBEEAD CUTLETS-CRUMBED AU
GRATIN. 
 Cut the sweetbreads as before, a nice thickness, but not too thick;
dry them, then egg and bread-crumb them as you would veal
or other cutlets; use any sauce that may be preferred. 
 783.--LAMB'S HEAD AND EMINCES. 
 Wash well a lamb's head and pluck, take out the brains, blanch
them by themselves, boil the head and pluck for about a quarter of an
hour, take it up to cool, take out the tongue, trim the two halves of
the head neatly, then score it, then egg and bread-crumb
them as you would cutlets, and brown them in the oven or before the fire. Cut
up in small dice in equal quantities, the tongue, liver,
heart, and lights; fry in a stewpan a little chopped
parsley, shalot, and mushroom if you have it, to a nice light  brown, dry up the butter with flour,
use some good second stock or brown sauce; season with
lemon, cayenne pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar;
put the mincees under the head, the brains, egg, and
bread-crumb in four pieces and put round.   789.--SHEEP OE
LAMBS' TROTTEES. 
 Get a dozen or two of trotters, stew them for several hours, until all the
bones will come from them; save this liquor; do not break the
skin; stuff them with good quenelles or forcemeat; return them
again into the same stock, boil them about fifteen minutes, glaze them;
soubise sauce or tomato sauce is good with them, or you may fry
them with butter.   PORK. 
 The proportion of persons who are fond of pork to those who dislike
it, are as a hundred to one, and yet it is falsely considered a vulgar taste.
The passion for it possessed by the Chinese has been illustrated by many tales,
and when in season, the frequency of its appearance upon a homely English table
is no small proof of the estimation in which it is held. It should be
thoroughly cooked to place its digestibility beyond a doubt. In roasting, or in
boiling, ample time should be allowed for the joint. Pork is always
salted for boiling, and is much liked in this form. When sent to table roasted,
apple sauce should in every case accompany it. 
 It is universally used in every family, and little used for company. 
 The griskin and the sparerib are certainly improved by being powdered with
chopped sage, but this is all a matter of taste. The skin of the
leg and loin must be scored previous to roasting; but take care
to preserve the skin, or 
 crackling,  of a fine brown as many persons look upon
it to be the best part of the pork; it should therefore be well basted,
and guarded from being burned by a sheet of oiled paper. Send both up
with a glass of vinegar mixed with two teaspoonfuls of made
mustard in the dish. 
 If you kill a young pig of four or five months, take off the
skin of the fore-quarter, roast it, and serve with mint sauce and
salad.   790.--PORK GRISKIN 
 Is usually very hard; the best way to prevent this is to put it into
as much cold water as will cover it, and let it boil up 5 then instantly
take it off, and put it into a Dutch oven; a very few minutes will do it.
Remember to rub butter over it, and then flour it, before you put
it to the fire. Lay it in a dish on melted butter and mustard. It
should be seasoned with pepper and salt before roasting. 
 791.--SPARERIB 
 Should be basted with a very little butter and a little flour,
and then sprinkled with dried sage crumbled.   792.--TO ROAST A
SUCKING PIG. 
 A sucking pig, which should be about three weeks old, must be dressed
as soon after being killed as practicable. When scalded and prepared for
cooking, lay in the belly a stuffing of bread, sage and
onions, pepper and salt, with a piece of butter;
sew it up, rub the skin of the pig with butter, skewer the
legs back, that while roasting, the inside as well as outside of the
pig may be thoroughly browned; it must be put to a quick fire, but at
such a distance as to roast gradually, and a coating of flour should be
dredged over  it that it may not blister, or it
should not be left a minute; if floured, when the pig is done,
scrape the flour off with a wooden, or very blunt knife, and rub it with
a buttered cloth; cut off the head, and dividing it take out the
brains, mix them with a little gravy or bread sauce,
divide the pig in half, from neck to tail, and lay each inside
flat upon the dish, so that the two edges of the back touch; place each half of
the head with the outer side uppermost at each end of the dish, and an
ear on each side; the gravy should be poured in the dish hot, and
the whole served as hot as possible; as a matter of convenience it is often
sent to the baker's oven; a large piece of butter should accompany it
for the baker to baste it with, and upon its return it should be cut and served
as above. 
 The gravy may be heightened in its flavor by various additions, or
two or three sauces and gravies may be served with it, such as veal
gravy thickened and flavored with wine, lemon-juice, and
cayenne, and also bread sauce and a plain gravy; this may
be a matter of taste. 
 It is usual to procure the pig from the butcher ready prepared for
cooking, but in the event of its being required to scald it after killing, we
subjoin the following receipt.   798.--TO SCALD A SUCKING PIG. 
 Plunge the pig into cold water the instant it is killed, let
it remain five minutes, have ready pounded resin, and rub well with it
over the skin, plunge it into a tub of scalding water, letting it
remain only half a minute, remove it, and immediately take off the hair; lose
no time, if the hair should not come freely from some parts, rub it again with
resin, and put it into the scalding water, and then remove the
hair. When it is all off wash it well with warm water, and then in cold,
changing the water several times that no flavor of the resin may
be retained; cut off the feet at the first joint, slit down the belly,
and remove the entrails; put aside the heart, liver and
lights, with the feet, wash again inside and out the pig,
dry it well, and keep it from the air by covering it with a cloth.   794.--TO
ROAST A PIG. (Philadelphia.) 
 Take a pig not more than a month old, remove the eyes and
tongue, trim the ears, cut off the feet, and clean it
thoroughly. Wash and dry it; rub it well, inside and outside, with sage
and seasoning of salt and cayenne pepper. Boil twenty good sized
potatoes, mash them while hot, add butter, a little milk, and
two minced onions and minced sweet herbs, with seasoning of
salt and pepper, and bread-crumbs. Stuff the pig, and
fasten the opening with skewers. Roast (or bake) it for three hours in a pan,
with water sufficient to form the gravy, thickened with a little
flour, and well stirred. Baste the pig, while roasting, with
oil or butter, to make it brown; and, if necessary, add a little
boiling water to the gravy. The taste of a pig roasted
before the fire is preferable to one baked in an oven. 
 Make the sauce of the feet, tongue, liver and
heart. The tongue must be scalded and skinned, then boiled with
the feet, liver and heart; and when done, minced fine and
seasoned, with the addition of an onion, parsley and sweet
herbs. Boil all together; rub a little butter with flour, and
stir it in with more seasoning if desired, adding a glass of wine
when the sauce is taken up.   795.--HIND-QUARTER OF SUCKING
PIG. (Yorkshire Fashion.) 
 Cut off the skin, cover with paper, and roast before a quick
fire about three-quarters of an hour; ten minutes before being ready, remove
the paper and baste it; serve with gravy under, and mint
sauce and salad.    796.--ROAST PIG. 
 Soak in milk some light bread, boil some sage and
onions in plenty of water, strain it off and chop it all very
fine, press the milk from the bread, and then mix the sage
and onion with pepper and salt; in the bread put
the yolk of an egg to bind it a little, put this in the inside of the
pig, rub the pig over with milk and butter,
paper it, roast it a beautiful brown, cut off the head before it
is drawn from the spit, and likewise cut it down the back, and then you will
not break the skin; take out the spit, cut off the ears from the
head, and crack the bone and take out the brains, put them
in a stew-pan with all the inside stuffing and a little brown
sauce; dish the pig, the backs outside, and put the sauce in
the middle, and some in a boat, the ears at each end.   797.--A LEG
 OF PORK ROASTED. 
 The pork should be young and dairy-fed; score the skin with a
sharp penknife, a little fresh butter is sometimes rubbed over the
skin to make it brown, and crisp without blistering. Chop some
sage that has been scalded, very fine, add to it an onion
parboiled, mix breadcrumbs and a small portion of apple chopped
very fine, mix all together, season with pepper and salt, make an
incision, separating the skin from the fat in the under and
fillet end of the leg, and place the stuffing there; the time of
roasting will depend upon the size of the leg; serve up with apple
sauce.   798.--A LEG of PORK BOILED. 
 After having been salted, it should be washed in clean cold water,
and scraped thoroughly white and clean preparatory to cooking; it should
then be put into a floured cloth and into cold water on the fire;
when the rind is quite tender the pork will be done; let the
water be well skimmed, and serve with such vegetables as are in season;
should the joint be large allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, with an
additional twenty minutes from the time it boils.   799.--LOIN of PORK 
 Should, like the leg, be scored before roasting, and well jointed to
make the chops separate easily, and then roast as a loin of mutton; or
it may be put into enough water to cover it, simmer until it is nearly
done, then take it out, take the skin off, coat it well with yolk of
egg and bread-crumbs, roast for about a quarter of an hour, until it
is thoroughly done.   800.--A FILLET OF PORK TO RESEMBLE VEAL. 
 The fillet should be cut from the leg of a very large pig; remove
the bone and fill the orifice with veal stuffing; roast it until
it is more than half done, then take some thin broth and put it in the
stewpan, put in the pork, stew until it is thoroughly done, then thicken
the gravy, and send it to table with force-meat balls and
lemon cut in slices.   801.--NECK OF PORK ROLLED. 
 Bone it, chop sage finely, mix it with well powdered
bread-crumbs, cover the meat with it on both sides, roll the
pork, fasten it securely, and roast it gently. 
 A hand and spring are sometimes dressed thus.   802.--SPARERIB OF
PORK--ROAST. 
 You must paper and joint this down the middle, and sprinkle it with a
little ine sage and salt; baste and flour it well;
apple sauce in a boat.   803.--SPARERIB. 
 A sparerib will take two hours and a half to roast unless very large, and
then  three hours will be required to cook it
thoroughly; while roasting baste with butter and dredge with
flour; pound some sage and powder the sparerib with it about
twenty minutes before it is done; a pinch of salt may be added. 
 804.--CHINE OF PORK. 
 This joint is usually sent to table with turkey; it should be salted
for about sixty or seventy hours previous to cooking, and then be roasted; it
is usually prepared so.   805.--LEG of PORK 
 
 To Bake. --Rub it well over with salt and
saltpetre mixed; let it lie five or six days in the brine; then
hang it up to smoke for five or six days. Take off the skin, put it into
an earthen dish, and pour a little red wine over it; stick a few
cloves in it, or beat them to powder, and rub them over it. When it has
been in the oven a short time, take some hard biscuit, pounded with
sugar, and spread it all over. Serve it up with gravy, and
port wine sauce. 
 
 To Roast. --Choose a small leg of fine young
pork: cut a slit in the knuckle with a sharp knife, and fill the space
with sage and onion chopped, and a little pepper and
salt. Score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper than the
outer rind. Put it at first a good distance from the fire, but baste it
frequently to prevent its scorching: then, when about three parts done, rub the
skin rather firmly with raw butter, after which flour it
lightly, and put close to the fire to crisp the crackling. Apple sauce
should be served with it. 
 
 To Boil. --Salt it eight or ten days, turning
it daily, but do not rub it after the first. When it is to be dressed weigh it:
let it lie half an hour in cold water to make it white: allow a
quarter of an hour for every pound, and half an hour over, from the time it
boils up: skim it as soon as it boils, and frequently after, but do not boil it
fast, or it will be hard. Allow water enough. Save some of the
water to make pea-soup. Some boil it in a cloth, floured,
which gives a very delicate look, but destroys the value of the liquor for
making soup.   806.--PORK CUTLETS. 
 Perhaps few things of a simple nature, and served in a plain way, are better
than a hot pork chop, cut about half an inch thick, trimmed neatly, and
broiled upon the gridiron. 
 
 Or: --Fry in salad-oil; serve with
sauce Eobert or gherkin sauce, the gherkins being shred
fine into some good thick brown gravy. 
 or:--Marinade the cutlets four hours in oil with an onion in
slices, parsley, bay-leaf, pepper, and salt; fry them in
the marinade; serve with tomato sauce.   807.--MOCK GOOSE, OR
LEG of PORK ROASTED WITHOUT THE SKIN. 
 Parboil it, and take off the skin; then put it down to roast; baste
it with butter, and make a savory powder of minced or dried
sage, ground black pepper, salt, and fine
bread-crumbs; add a little very finely minced onion: sprinkle the
leg with this when almost roasted; put half a pint of made gravy
into the dish, and garnish the dish with balls of this dressing fried or
broiled.--
 (Recommended by a Lady of New York.)    808.--CHINE
OF PORK 
 Generally used at Christmas. This, when properly cured, is mostly used cold;
boil it in a cloth, with a sauce of red cabbage, or sauer kraut
if cold; garnish with parsley.  
 809.--ALL ROAST PORKS. 
 Be sure to cut the skin lengthways into small strips, not very deep,
to reach the meat; send up apple sauce to all roast porks. 
 810.--TO PICKLE PORK. 
 Dredge it with salt, pounded nearly as fine as flour; place
upon four sticks crossed upon a dry cold flag-stone, or in an earthenware dish;
let it remain to drain from eighteen to twenty-four hours, then rub it well in
with a brine, consisting of one pound of salt, half a pound of
coarse brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and a quarter of an
ounce of salt prunel; the last, if the pork is delicate, may be
omitted. If many pieces are being salted, put them into a tub and pack them
closely, filling up the interstices with common salt, place a weight
upon the top to keep the meat down, as well as to prevent the admittance
of any air, and when taken out for cooking, scrape off the salt, wash
the pork in several waters, or place it under a water tap,
letting the water run upon it two or three minutes, turning it
occasionally, or it may lie in soak half an hour; it should be put to boil in
cold water, and when the rind is tender it will be done
enough.   811.--BOILED PORK OF ALL KINDS. 
 The leg you must skin the same as ham, and dish its
back part upwards, and glaze it; place a ruffle at the knuckle; sauce,
sauer kraut, or stewed red cabbage; peas pudding to all
pork when boiled.   812.--PIG'S CHEEK--A HALF ONE. 
 Boil and trim in the shape of ham, and if very fat, carve it
as a cockle shell; glaze it well, or put bread-crumbs and brown them:
sauce as before.   813.--PIG'S CHEEK. (A new method.) 
 Procure a pig's cheek nicely pickled; boil well until it feels very
tender, tie half a pint of split peas in a cloth, and put them into a
stewpan of boiling water, boil about half an hour, take them out, pass
through a hair sieve, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a
little pepper and salt, and four eggs, stir them over the
fire until the eggs are partially set, then spread it over the
pig's cheek, egg with a paste-brush, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over, place in the oven ten minutes, brown it with the
salamander, and serve.   814.--PIG'S FACE FOR BREAKFAST. 
 Cut the ears off, and take out the tongue and brains,
then lay them in salt for two days, take them out of that, and then use
the ingredients as for tongues, and dry them the same as
hams.   815.--PORK CUTLETS. 
 Cut from a neck, or what is called fore-loin of pork, the best
end, trim it as you do lamb or mutton, leaving a little
fat; scrape the bone, rub or chop some sage fine, with a
very little piece of shalot, mix it up with only sufficient breadcrumbs,
put black pepper and salt into the crumbs, herbs, dish
each cutlet in clarified butter or melted lard, press the
crumbs well upon the cutlets, have a sautepan greased with lard, lay
them into it, fry them a nice light brown, take them up and dry them on
paper, dish upon mashed potatoes, use sauce Robert, or
soubise, or tomato, or any other to taste.   816.--PORK
CUTLETS. 
 Out them from a small delicate loin of pork, bone, and trim
them neatly, fry them a light brown, put into a small stewpan a little
vinegar, and eschalot chopped very finely, two table-spoonfuls  of tomato sauce, and sufficient brown
gravy to make it tasty; stew the cutlets in the sauce five minutes,
and send them to table dished handsomely; if the cutlets are broiled they may
be dipped in yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, and broiled over a
clear fire, and served with tomato sauce, or sauce Robert. 
 817.--PORK CHOPS OR STEAKS.  
 Cut from the best end of the loin, or from the chump or leg if
steaks; remove the fat and skin, turn them frequently and
quickly while broiling; if your gridiron be of the old fashion, it is better to
keep it aslant on the fire, the handle being the lowest part, it prevents very
much of the fat from falling into the fire, the flare of which is apt to
impart a disagreeable flavor to the chops; this observation applies also to
mutton chops, and will be found useful if followed: sprinkle them with
salt when nearly done, and rub with a little fresh butter
previous to serving; if for a side dish garnish with crisped
parsley.   818.--PORK SAUSAGES. 
 There are many receipts for the making of pork sausages. The
peculiarity in sausages being the quantity and variety of herbs
introduced, the prevalence of some particular one gives the flavor, as well as
the peculiarity to each. The presence of so many herbs is, however, not
always considered an agreeable feature, and many palates are offended at that
which forms to others the great merit. The following is a very simple
receipt. 
 Take of the fat of pork one pound, that of the loin of a large
richly fed pig, or the inward fat of a small one. Chop it finely
with half a pound of lean pork; add to it four or five
sage-leaves finely chopped, some lemon thyme in a small quantity,
and three dessert-spoonfuls of crumb of bread powdered; be careful not
to put too much of the latter, as it tends to turn the sausages sour if
kept. Amalgamate these ingredients well, dust on grated nutmeg,
mace, and cloves in powder, and finish with black pepper
and salt, being sure to season well; the meat may then be put
into the skins, or may be put in jars covered down from the air, to be
used for rolls or stuffing, or any required purpose. 
 All skin must be pared from the fat before chopping, and every
sinew removed from the lean pork, as well as any bone, or any
thing which may impair the taste when eaten.   819.--SAUSAGES. (Mrs.
Ellis.) 
 Chop fresh pork very fine, the lean and fat together. Then
fill the skins, which should be previously cleaned thoroughly. A little
flour mixed in with the meat, tends to prevent the fat
from running out when cooked. Sausage-meat is good done up in small
cakes and fried. In summer, when fresh pork cannot be procured, very
good sausage-cakes may be made of raw beef, chopped fine with
salt pork, and seasoned with pepper and sage. When
sausages are fried, they should not be pricked, and they will cook nicer
to have a little fat put in the fryingpan with them. They should be
cooked slowly. If you do not like them very fat, take them out of the
pan when nearly done, and finish cooking them on a gridiron. Bologna
sausages are made of equal weight each, of ham, veal, and
pork, chopped very fine, seasoned high, and boiled in casings till
tender, then dried.   820.--THE UNIVERSITY RECEIPT FOR PORK SAUSAGES. 
 To a couple of pounds of lean pork, young, white, and
delicate, put three quarters of a pound of minced beef suet; the
pork must first be chopped very fine; add three dessert-spoonfuls of
bread which has been dipped in port wine,  dried and grated fine; work it together with the yolks of
three eggs smoothly beaten: season it with pepper and salt,
and dried sage; a very little cayenne may be introduced, and a
very small piece of garlic. Work the whole well together in a mortar
until it forms a paste; it may then be put into wide skins, or
pressed down into jars for future use. It is cut into square pieces, dredged
with flour, fried in fresh butter, and sent to table on a
toast as a breakfast dish.   821.--SAUCISSES À L'ESPAGNOLE. 
 Cut into chops the loin of a good sized pig, bone it,
and cut the meat into dice, keeping the fat and lean separate,
three quarters of an inch square. Chop two corns of garlic fine, add to
it black pepper, Spanish pepper, and salt; mix it well
together, and season the meat with it: pour over it half a pint of an
acid wine, and when it has been drawn in by the meat, add more,
until the expiration of a week; then lay the meat in skins,
alternately fat and lean, and if any moisture appears to be required
give a little more wine. Twist the skin, and tie it in the
lengths you require, and keep them in a cool dry place. They may be boiled,
fried, broiled, grilled, toasted, served with poultry or veal, or may be
eaten with bread alone.   822.--PORK SAUSAGES. 
 Chop, particularly fine, about two or three pounds of lean pork, and
an equal quantity of fat; have ready some sage, either dry or
green, either passed through a sieve or chopped very fine, a small piece of
shalot, a few grains of ground cloves, season it with pepper and
salt, mix a few fine bread-crumbs up with it, have your
skins ready cleaned; then fill them, or if preferred roll into balls and
fry them; you will tie them the length you wish the sausages to be,
prick the skins with a fork before you fry them; you may do them in the
oven if it should be hot.   823.--ANOTHER WAY.  
 Chop the pork as before, only add half the quantity of lean
veal, a pound of suet chopped equally fine, have ready a French
roll soaked in milk but no crust, season it well with pepper
and salt, mix it all well together.   824.--LIVER PUDDING.  
 Boil pigs' livers, mince, and season them with pepper,
salt, and chopped sweet marjoram and sage, adding
cloves. Put them in skins, prick them, and boil slowly an hour or
so. Keep them, in covered jars, to eat cold in slices, or to fry in larger
pieces. Boiled pigs' feet may be mixed with the
livers.   825.--BOLOGNA SAUSAGES. 
 To ten pounds of beef take four of pork; chop and mix it,
season well with six ounces of salt, and some black and cayenne
pepper, cloves powdered, and chopped garlic. Put the mixture
into beef skins, tie them, and put them into brine strong enough
to bear an egg, for three weeks, turning them every day. Then dry
and hang them up to smoke.   826.--HEAD CHEESE. 
 Boil the head, tongues, and feet of freshly-killed
pigs; taking the skin from the head first. When tender,
chop the meat, season it with salt, pepper, cloves,
minced sweet herbs, and mix thoroughly. Put the mixture into deep pans,
press it down, cover it with an inverted plate, and place a heavy weight on the
bottom of the plate. In three days take it out. and serve in slices, to be
eaten with mustard and vinegar, at breakfast or supper. 
 827.--A DIFFERENT TO A DIFFERENT PALATE. 
 Chop pork as before, and an equal quantity of fat, and the
quantity of lean  veal, and the same of
suet, and two or three handfuls of fine bread-crumbs; have ready
a few sage-leaves, a few of knotted marjoram and one shalot;
pound all well together, season with white pepper and salt,
either put them in skins or roll them, and fry them as above. 
 828.--SPICED SAUSAGES. 
 Rub well into a piece of pork some saltpetre, allspice,
and black pepper, let it lie several days, rubbing it each day, then
chop it small, and add to it two shalots chopped fine, have ready cleaned well
an ox-gut, fill it with this meat quite tight, tie both ends
firm, let it be smoked as hams, wrap it in a thin cloth, then let it be
well dried; you may tie it into what lengths you please before smoking; this
will eat hot or cold.   829.--WHITE SAUSAGES. 
 Have ready some well-dried oat-meal, two or three onions to
boil in milk, chop them very fine, chop two pounds of suet very
fine, mix about a pint of oatmeal to the suet, add the
onions, season all with pepper and salt, rather
predominant with pepper and onions, filling the skins as
for former sausages; if approved of add a few currants and boiled
rice in milk to them. You may make sausages of any dressed
meats, either chicken or rabbits; chop up the meat
very fine, adding onions and seasonings as in the above, with chopped
parsley and a few grains of pounded mace; add some bacon
chopped instead of suet, mix all together with two yolks of eggs,
a few bread crumbs and a few drops of lemon-juice; fill this
in the skins as before, and broil or fry them.   830.--SAUCISSES AUX
CHATAIGNES.--STEWED SAUSAGE MEAT WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 Take twenty or thirty sound chestnuts, roast them over a slow fire,
and when sufficiently roasted to remove the husk take them off, peel
them, removing the inner skin as well as the husk, and put them
aside sufficiently near the fire not to cool too readily. Out into diamonds
half a dozen thin slices of sausage meat, and fry them brown in a little
fresh butter. When they are a good color, take them out, and pour three
parts of the butter in which they have been fried into a small
well-tinned or earthenware saucepan. Thicken it while heating with a spoonful
of flour, and pour in gradually a pint of good gravy, with a
glass of old brown sherry, or two of Madeira. Put in a fagot of
herbs, and season to palate, a little cayenne may accompany the
common pepper. As soon as it boils, lay the sausage cakes round
the saucepan close to the sides, leaving the centre clear, and in this space
put the chestnuts. Let them stew slowly three quarters of an hour; then
dish them, arranging the sausage meat and chestnuts in the same
manner as in the stewpan; pour the gravy over them, removing the fagot
of herbs first, and serve.   831.--TO COLLAR A PIG'S HEAD.  
 Clean thoroughly, and put it in pickle for a week, boil it tender,
then take out the bones carefully, turn the upper part of one cheek to
the snout of the other cheek, season them with pepper and salt,
roll it lightly in a cloth, and secure it, then boil until it is very tender.
Do not remove the cloth when done, but place it upon an earthenware dish, lay a
heavy weight upon it, and unbind when cold; if the cheek is a large and
fat one, it will be improved by laying a slice or two of lean
pork, or ham, between the cheeks before binding them in the
cloth.   832.--PIG'S HEAD BAKED. 
 Let it be divided, and thoroughly cleaned; take out the brains, trim
the snout and ears, bake it an hour and a half, wash the brains
thoroughly, blanch  them, beat them up with an
egg, pepper, and salt, and some finely chopped or pounded
sage, and a small piece of butter; fry them or brown them before
the fire; serve with the head. 
 Pig's head is profitable to buy. It is often despised because cheap;
but well cooked, it is delicious. Well cleaned, the tip of the snout chopped
off, and put in brine a week, it is in order for boiling. The cheeks are
better than any other pieces of pork to bake. The head is good
baked an hour and a half, and yields abundance of sweet fat for
shortening. The butchers of Philadelphia make what they call scrapple
out of pig's cheek, boiled and chopped very fine. The water in
which this meat has been boiled is thickened with buckwheat and
Indian meal boiled in it till sufficiently done. The meat is
added. When cold, it forms cakes, which are sold in market--and fried in slices
for breakfast by the purchaser.   883.--PIG'S HEAD BOILED. 
 This is the most profitable dish, though not so pleasant to the palate; it
should first be salted, which is usually done by the pork butcher; it
should be boiled an hour and a quarter, it must boil gently or the meat
will be hard; serve with vegetables.   834.--PETTITOES. 
 Put them in just sufficient water to cover them, add the heart
and liver, boil them ten minutes, take out the liver and
heart, and mince them small, and return them to the feet, stew
until quite tender, thicken with flour and butter, season with
pepper and salt, serve up with sippets of plain bread, or
toasted bread; make a pyramid of the minced heart and
liver, and lay the feet round them. 
 When pettitoes are fried, they should be first boiled, then dipped in
butter, and fried a light brown.   835.--PIGS' FEET 1 LA
ST. MENEHOULD. 
 Clean the feet perfectly, cut them down in two, then bind them with a
tape to prevent their shrinking or opening, and boil them gently until they are
rather soft, with carrots, onions, parsley, thyme,
allspice, and bay-leaf; let them cool in the liquor. When required for
use, take off the tape, dip them in yolks of eggs and butter
about three parts melted; season them, then cover them with crumbs of
bread and finely minced parsley, with the smallest quantity of
shalot. Broil them until highly browned, and serve dry, or with sauce
Robert.   836.--SOUSE. 
 Take pigs' feet, ears, &c., well cleaned, simmer
four or five hours, till they are too tender to be taken out with a fork. Take
from the boiling water and put them into cold water. Boil the
jelly-like liquor in which they were cooked, with an equal quantity of
vinegar; add cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and
sufficient salt to the souse, pack it down tight, and put the liquor
over it.   837.--SOUSE.   Take pigs' ears and feet, clean
them thoroughly, then soak them in salt and water, for several days.
Boil them tender and split them, they are then good fried. If you wish to souse
them when cold, turn boiling vinegar on them, spice with
peppercorns and mace. Cloves improve the taste, but turn
them a dark color. Add a little salt They will keep good pickled five or
six weeks. Fry them in lard.   838.--PIGS' FEET STEWED. 
 Clean, split, and boil tender, put them into a stewpan with enough
gravy to cover them, an onion sliced, a few sage leaves,
whole black pepper, allspice, and salt; stew forty
minutes, strain off the  gravy, thicken
with flour and butter, add two spoonfuls of vinegar or one
dessertspoonful of lemon pickle; serve it up with the feet. 
 889.--PIGS' FEET AND EARS FRIED. 
 They must be well cleaned, and boiled until tender, and laid in
vinegar and water, with salt in it, until they are
required for use; to prepare them for cooking, cut the feet in two,
slice the ears, dip them in butter, dredge with flour, fry
a nice color, and serve with melted butter and lemon pickle. 
 840.--PIGS' HARSLET 
 Is made with the liver and sweetbreads, which must be well
cleaned; add to them pieces of pork both fat and lean, chop
finely sage and onions, season with pepper and
salt, and mix with the preceding; put them in a cowl, tie it closely,
and roast. It may also be baked. Serve with a sauce of port wine and
water and mustard, just boiled up, and put it into the dish. 
 841.--BAKED FAGOTS. 
 Having procured your pig's-fry, (the quantity to be regulated by the
size of family,) wash and set it on the fire, in a saucepan, with just
sufficient water to cover; add a bunch of sage, and four or five
onions; let all boil ten minutes; take out the meat, and cut in
slices; then take out the sage and onions, and chop it all finely
together; season with pepper and salt; cut the caul in pieces,
and fill with the meat about the size of an ordinary teacup; place them
on a tin and bake in a moderate oven; do not throw away the water it was
boiled in, but boil it down to a sufficient quantity to serve with the fagots
as gravy.   842.--WHITE PUDDINGS 
 Are made with beef suet and oatmeal, flavored and seasoned.
Take a pound and a half of beef suet, chop it very fine, and, having
boiled a pound of oatmeal, tightly wedged down in a small white
basin closely covered with a cloth for five hours, scrape it into powder, and
mix it with the suet, two small onions boiled and chopped fine,
and season well with white pepper and salt; a small quan tity of
thyme and marjoram may be added at pleasure. Boil them an hour.
Like all sausages they must be pricked while cooking, to suffer the hot
air generated to escape, or they will burst.   843.--BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 Stir three quarts of sheep's blood with one spoonful of salt
till cold boil a quart of grits in sufficient water to swell
them, drain, and add them to the blood with a pound of suet, a little
pounded nutmeg, some mace, cloves, and allspice; a
pound of the hog's fat cut small, some parsley finely minced,
sage, sweet herbs, a pint of bread-crumbs, salt,
and pepper; mix these ingredients well together, put them into well
cleaned skins, tie them in links, and prick the skins, that while
boiling they may not burst. Let them boil twenty minutes, and cover them with
clean straw until they are cold.   844.--BLACK AND WHITE PUDDINGS. 
 Procure the pig's blood, then add half a pound of half-boiled
rice, set it to cool keeping it stirred, take a little more rice
boiled in milk, add it to the blood, cut up about one pound of fat
pork into large dice, melt half a pound of lard and pour into the
blood and rice, then add your fat, with a few
bread-crumbs, three shalots, a little parsley, some black
pepper, cayenne pepper, and salt; mix all well together, then
fill into skins as before; tie them the length you wish them, then boil
them a quarter of an hour, take  them out and lay
them on some new clean straw until cold, then give them another boil for a few
minutes, then turn them as before until wanted; put them in the oven when you
require them, or fry them or broil them.   845.--TO MELT LARD. 
 Take the inner fat of a newly killed pig and strip off the
skin completely and carefully, slice it and put it into a jar, a sprig
of rosemary may be placed with it, and set the jar in a pan of
boiling water; let it melt, and when perfectly fluid pour it into dry
clean jars, and cover them closely; it may be kept some time in a dry place,
and when used may be mixed with butter for pastry, for frying
fish, and many other purposes in cooking.   846.--HOG-'S
LARD 
 Should be carefully melted in a jar put into a kettle of water and
boiled: run it into bladders that have been extremely well cleaned. The smaller
they are the better the lard keeps, as, after the air reaches it, it
becomes rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary when melting. This being a most
useful article for frying fish, it should be prepared with care. Mixed
with butter, it makes fine crust for tarts. 
 847.--HAMS--BOILED HAM. 
 The ham should be soaked about twelve hours, then wrapped in a clean
cloth, and laid upon stone flags for two days, the cloth being kept moistened
with clean soft water; this will render it tender when cooked; let it be
thoroughly scraped and cleaned, and placed in the kettle, which in small
families will be found the most convenient mode of cooking it; they should be
put in sufficient water to cover them, which water, when the
ham is cooked, will be found of the greatest service in making stocks
for soups; the time it will require to boil will depend upon the weight of the
ham: a small one three hours and a half, which may progress according to
the weight to six hours; when it is done remove the skin, if possible,
without breaking it, it prevents the ham when cold becoming dry; spread
over the ham bread-raspings, the dish should be garnished with sliced
boiled carrots.   848.--TO COOK A HAM. 
 An excellent manner of cooking a ham is the following: Boil it three
or four hours, according to size; then skin the whole and fit it for the
table; then set in the oven for half an hour, cover it thickly with pounded
rusk or bread-- crumbs, and set back for half an hour longer. Boiled
ham is always improved by setting it in an oven for nearly an hour,
until much of the fat dries out, and it also makes it more tender. 
 849.--HAM, TO BOIL IN A SUPERIOR WAY. 
 Parboil the ham, then allow it to remain in the water all
night, and finish boiling the next day, so as to be in time; for dishing up;
skim, and dust with raspings, the same as directed before, and you will have a
more tender ham than one dressed almost any other way. 
 850.--ECONOMICAL DISH. 
 Out some pretty fat ham or bacon into slices, and fry of a
nice brown; lay them aside to keep warm; then mix equal quantities of
potatoes and cabbage, bruised well together, and fry them iia the
fat left from the ham. Place the mixture at the bottom, and lay
the slices of bacon on the top. Cauliflower or broccoli,
substituted for cabbage is truly delicious, and, to any one possess-ing
a garden, quite easily procured--as  those newly
blown will do. The dish must be well seasoned with pepper.   851.--TO
CURE A HAM. 
 For a ham of sixteen pounds, take a pound and a half of common
salt, with an ounce of saltpetre. Leave it some days, then put in
one pound of molasses; let the ham lie a month in the
pickle; then hang it up.   852.--PRACTICAL HOUSEWIFE'S CHRISTMAS
HAM. 
 Soak the ham. be the weight whatever it may, half the usual time in
water; remove, wash well with cold water, place in a pan large
and deep enough to con tain it, cover with beer or good ale, and
let it remain until the required time for soaking a ham of the size used
has expired. Boil as usual until the skin can be readily removed; then
place the ham in a tin or an earthenware dish, and cover with a common
flour and water paste, or surround with batter. Bake in a
moderately heated oven until done, remove the paste or batter, cover
with bread-raspings, and serve hot. 
 Cooked in this manner, a ham acquires the most delicious flavor. 
 853.--HAMS. 
 Skimmed milk, or milk and water, will be found
preferable to plain water for soaking hams; and they may also be
boiled in milk and water. 
 Where vegetables are plentiful, it is desirable to boil ham with
three heads of celery, a couple of turnips, half a dozen small
onions, and a large bunch of sweet marjoram, thyme,
&c., put in after the pot has been skimmed. These will extract the
salt and soften the meat. A piece of coarse fresh beef, or
any kind of meat, in addition, will materially improve the ham,
as, in this manner of boiling it, the juices of the meat and
vegetables insinuate themselves between the fibres of the ham, after
having dislodged the salt, by which means the meat is enriched
and rendered tender. At first sight this will appear an extravagant way of
boiling a ham, but it should be considered that the broth will
serve the purposes of the family." If the meat and vegetables are not
approved, two pounds of fresh beef dripping will answer nearly as
well.   854.--TO BOIL. 
 If long hung, soak it for twenty-four hours in lukewarm water,
changing it frequently. Wash and brush it well: trim off any rusty parts; put
it into a boiler of water, and let it simmer from three hours and a half
to five hours, according to its size. It is best to allow time enough, as it
is easy to take up the ham when done, and keep it hot over boiling
water, covered closely. Take off the skin as whole as you can, as it
keeps the cold ham moist when skewered on again after dinner. 
 There can be no doubt that the fore going is an excellent mode of boiling a
ham, but many people prefer to have it baked, in which case send it to
the oven in a deep pan, with half a pound of suet over it to baste it
occasionally; or skin it, cover it with a crust of coarse paste,
and, when taken from the bakehouse, strip off the crust, rub it with yolk of
egg, on which put finely powdered crumbs of bread strewed with a
dredging-box, in the same manner as when the ham is boiled. 
 In Spain and Portugal, where the hams are generally fine, the method
of dressing them is to put the ham in cold water with a large
handful of brown sugar, to which some persons add a quantity of the com
mon country wine, and let it simmer on the fire until parboiled, keeping
the pot well skimmed; when taken out, the skin is stripped off, and the
ham covered with brown sugar to the thickness of an inch,  after which it is sent to the oven and baked until
thoroughly done. 
 A ham of fifteen pounds should be al lowed nearly two hours before
the water begins to boil, and as much more for sim mering until half
done; then from three to four hours' baking, according to the heat of the oven,
which however should never be allowed to be too hot. When cold, twist some
neatly fringed letter-paper round the shank-bone.   855.--TO
ROAST. 
 Take a very fine ham (a Westphalia, if you can procure it), soak it
in lukewarm water for a day or two, changing the water
frequently. The day before you intend to cook it, take the ham out of
the water, and, having removed the skin, trim it nicely, and pour
over it a bottle of an inferior white wine; let it steep till next
morning, frequently during the day wash ing the wine over it; put it in
a cradle-spit in time to allow at least six hours for slowly roasting it; baste
with hot water continually. When done, dredge it with fine bread
raspings, and brown before the fire.   856.--SPRING, OR FOREHAND OF
PORK. 
 Out out the bone; sprinkle salt, pep per, and sage
dried, over the inside; but first warm a little butter to baste it, and
then flour it; roll the pork tight, and tie it; then roast by a
hanging jack. About two hours will do it.   857.--HAM GRAVY. 
 Take the wine in which the ham was steeped, and add to it the
essence or juice which flowed from the meat when taken from the
spit; squeeze in the juice of two lemons; put it into a saucepan, and
boil and skim it; send it to table in a boat. Cover the shank of the ham
(which should have been sawed short) with bunches of double parsley, and
ornament it with any garnish you may think proper.   858.--TO BOIL MUTTON
HAM. 
 Put it on the fire in cold water; let it warm quickly, and allow it
to boil only twenty minutes; then leave it in the pan of water till
cold. This plan renders it moist, and answers when it is to be eaten cold. 
 859.--HAM AND EGGS FRIED. 
 Out some nice slices of ham, put them in a frying-pan; cover them
with hot water, and set the pan over the fire. Let it boil up once or
twice; then take out the slices and throw out the water; put a bit of
lard in the pan; dip the slices in wheat flour or finely rolled
crackers, and when the fat is hot, put them into the pan;
sprinkle a little popper over; when both sides are a fine brown, take them on a
steak dish; put a little boiling water into the pan, and put it
in the dish with the meat. Now put a bit of lard the size of a
large egg into the pan; add a salt-spoon ful to it; let it become
hot; break six or eight eggs carefully into a bowl; then slip them into
the hot lard; set the pan over a gentle fire. When the white be
gins to set, pass a knife-blade, so as to divide an equal quantity of
white to each yolk; cut it entirely through to the pan, that they
may cook the more quickly, When done, take each one up with a skimmer spoon,
and lay them in a chain around the edge of the meat on the dish. Fried
eggs should not be turned in the pan. 
 Spinach boiled and pressed free from water, and chopped small,
may be put on the centre of a steak dish; lay the fried ham on
it; pour the gravy over; place the fried eggs around it.
Vinegar may be eaten with the spinach.   860.--POACHED
EGGS WITH FRIED HAM. 
 Fry the ham as above directed; take a clean frying or omelette-pan;
nearly fill it with boiling water; set it over a gentle fire; break the
eggs singly into a cup, and  slip each into
the boiling water; coyer the pan for four or five minutes. When done,
take them up with a skimmer on to a dish; sprinkle a little pepper and
salt over; add a small bit of butter, and serve in a dish or over
the ham.   861.--TO CURE HAMS. 
 [The lady from whom this receipt is procured, prides herself much on her
curing; and often when asked her opinion of a ham at the houses of her
friends--speaking well of what is before her, will add, "It is not like
hams of my own curing, of course; but very nice," &c.]-- EDITOR. 
 One ounce of saltpetre, one ounce of allspice, one ounce of
cayenne pepper, one pound of brown sugar, one pound of
salt, for every two hams; mix and rub well over the hams
for three or four days, laying them with the skin down in the tub in
which you mean to keep them. Then make a pickle strong enough to
bear an egg, of cold water and salt: add to the
pickle about a pound of sugar, and one ounce of saltpetre;
if for sixteen hams, less in proportion. After lying three weeks in
pickle the hams will be fit to smoke. After the hams come
out, I al ways put in the pickle some plate pieces, rumps and
rounds of beef; so that nothing is wasted.   862.--TO CUBE
HAMS. 
 Pound some rock salt, saltpetre, and common salt, and
some coarse brown sugar, mix it all well together, then put it all to
get hot, and while hot rub the hams well with this, repeating it every
morning for a week; let them lie in the brine for another week, until
all is well incorporated in the meat; then take them out to drain on
dishes, flour them and hang them up to dry; you must be guided a good
deal by the size of the hams. 
 The Virginia method of curing hams, (which is considered very
superior,) is to dissolve two ounces of saltpetre, two tea-spoonfuls of
saleratus, in a salt pickle, as strong as possible; for every
sixteen pounds of ham, add molasses in the proportion of one
gallon to a hogshead of water, then put in the hams and let them
remain three or four weeks. Then take them out of the brine and smoke
them with the hocks downward, to preserve the juices. They will
smoke tolerably well in the course of a month; but they will be much better to
remain in the smoke-house two or three months. Hams cured in this manner
are well flavored, and will keep a long time.   863.--TO RESTORE PORK. 
 In warm weather, the brine on pork frequently becomes sour and
the pork tainted. Boil the brine, skim it well, and pour it back
on the meat boiling hot. This will restore it even when it is much
injured.   864.--TONGUES 
 You will first lay in salt; then use the same hot preparations daily;
about ten days will do for the tongues; sheep's tongues may be
done the same, but less time.   865.--ANOTHER RECEIPT TO CURE HAM. 
 Let the ham hang for three days, sprinkle it well during the time
with salt. Make a pickle of eight ounces of rock salt, an
equal quantity of common salt, two ounces of saltpetre, the same
of black pepper, half a pound of common brown sugar, and a quart
of beer; boil it, pour hot upon the ham, turn it every day in the
pickle for three weeks, wipe it as dry as possible, and bury it in bran.
Smoke it for a month over wood smoke; it must be sewed in a coarse strong
wrapper.  866.--TO BAKE A HAM.  
 Put the ham in soak previous to dress ing it; if an old one, two
hours will be  required, but if not very old, an
hour will suffice. Wipe it very dry, and cover it with a paste about an
inch in thickness. The edges being first moistened must be drawn together and
made to adhere, or the gravy will escape. Bake it in a re gular well
heated oven; it will take from three to six hours, according to its weight;
when done remove the paste, and then the skin. This must be done
while the ham is hot. If well baked and not too salt, it will
prove of finer flavor than if boiled.   867.--TO MAKE HAM SUPERIOR TO
WEST-PHALIA. (Ude.) 
 As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the two
hams, and cut out the round bone, so as to have the ham
not too thick: rub them with common salt, and leave them in a large pan
for three days; when the salt has drawn out all the blood, throw the
brine away, and proceed as follows: for two hams of about
eighteen pounds each, take one pound of moist sugar, one pound of com
mon salt, and two ounces of saltpetre, mix them together, and rub
the hams well with it, then put them into a vessel large enough to
contain them in the liquor, always keeping the salt over them; after
they have been in this state three days, throw over them a bottle of good
vinegar. One month is requisite to cure them; during which period they
must be often turned in the brine; when you take them out, drain them
well, powder them with some coarse flour, and hang them in a dry place.
The same brine will serve again, except that you must not put so much
salt on the next hams that you pickle. If the hams are smaller, put only three-quarters of a pound of salt, but the salt will not do any harm if you do not let them remain too long in the
brine; if you can get them smoked, they are then not so subject to be
infested by ver min; no insect whatever can bear the bitterness of the
soot; the smoke of wood is preferable to the smoke of coal. Be
particular that the hams are hung as far as possible from the fire,
otherwise the fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard
and rank.   868.--TO BRAISE A HAM IN THE FRENCH FASHION. 
 It is prepared for cooking in the same manner as in the preceding receipt,
but when cleaned it is placed upon a layer of new hay, which has previously
been laid evenly upon a clean white "cloth, which should also be thin,
that the flavor of the braise may be imparted. It is then placed in a stewpan,
with two parts water to one part vin ordinaire, or any light white
wine, and suffered to come to a boil. The scum must be removed, and then
vegetables added; four carrots, three onions, a fagot of
herbs, and, if approved, a little corn of garlic, perhaps less of
that powerfully flavored root. Simmer from three hours and a half to six,
according to the weight 5 when tender it is enough. The skin should then
be stripped off carefully, and bread raspings strewed over it. Powdered
herbs, or parsley chopped very fine, are sometimes mixed with the
raspings, but taste must regulate its admission or omission.   869.--TO
BRAISE A HAM. 
 Put the ham into water the night pre vious to cooking, and
next day wash it in warm water, trim it by cutting away all the yellow
fat and rusty parts; take off the knuckle, and pare down all the under
part; put it in a stewpan, and just cover it with water; lay in a slice
of beef cut into pieces, a few onions, a fagot of sweet
herbs, three small carrots, and, a little allspice; simmer
from three to six hours; it must depend entirety upon the size and weight. Take
out the ham, and skin it; glaze, and serve it upon a puree of
vegetables. The braise may be made into a rich brown soup, thickened and  flavored with wine; it may serve also for the
flavoring of soups.   870.--HAM RASHERS OR SLICES 
 May be toasted, broiled, or fried. May be served with spinach and
poached eggs, or boiled green peas. Stewed with green
peas, or cut in thin slices, divided in four pieces, each piece rolled and
fastened with a skewer, roasted in a Dutch oven, and served with peas.
They should in all cases be cut an even thickness, and cooked without injuring
the color. Bacon may be dressed in the same manner.   871.--TO CURE
BACON.--COBBETT'S RECEIPT. 
 The two sides that remain, and which are called flitches, are to be cured
for ba con. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or flesh
sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides upper most, in a salting
trough which has a gut ter round its edges to drain away the
brine, for to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be
sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of taste that barrel
pork and sea pork have, and than which nothing is more villanous;
every one knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that
of salt in a dis solved state, therefore change the salt often,
once in four or five days; let it melt and sink in, but let it not lie too
long; change the flitches, put that at bot tom which was first on the top, do
this a couple of times; this mode will cost you a great deal more in
salt than the sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be
so sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your
flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances, the thickness
of the flitch, the state of the weather, the place wherein the salting is going
on; it takes a longer time for a thick than a thin flitch; it takes longer in
dry than in damp weather 5 it takes longer in a dry than in a damp place; but
for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or
damp, about six weeks may do 5 and as yours is to be fat, which receives
little injury from over salting, give time enough, for you are to have
bacon until Christmas comes again. 
 The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but always admit
of a free circulation of air; confined air, though cool, will taint meat
sooner than the mid-day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the
bacon, two precautions are necessary: first, to hang the flitches where
no rain comes down upon them, and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood,
not peat, turf, nor coal. As to the time it requires to smoke a flitch,
it must depend a good deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath, and
whether the fire be large or small; a month will do if the fire be pretty
constant, and rich as a farm-house fire usually is; but over-smoking, or rather
too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust; great attention
should therefore be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be dried up to
the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly dry; before you hang
it up lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh side pretty thickly over with
bran, or with some fine sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or
pat it well down upon it; this keeps the smoke from get ting into the little
openings, and makes a sort of crust to be dried on. To keep the bacon
sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift fine some clean and dry wood
ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or chest, long enough to hold a
flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch, and then put in more ashes,
then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight inches of the
ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and
should the ashes become damp, they should be put in the fire-place to
dry, and  when cold put back again. With these
precautions, the bacon will be as good at the end of the year, as on the
first day. 
 It may be as well to observe in refer ence to the above receipt, given by
the very celebrated William Cobbett, in his Cottage Economy, that most counties
in England have their peculiar method of curing hams and bacon,
each varying in some slight degree from the other, and, of course, each is
considered orthodox. But for simple general rules, the above may be safely
taken as a guide; and those who implicitly follow the directions given, will
have at the expiration of from six weeks to two months, well flavored, and well
cured bacon.   872.--TO CURE BACON FOR LARDING. 
 It is of little use preparing a small piece of bacon for larding, for
different joints require lardings of different lengths; a piece of beef,
for example, will, if of a tolerable size, require very lengthy lard
ings, as a fowl will require but small ones. Ten to twenty pounds should
at least be prepared. Take fifteen pounds, and the fatter it is the better; rub
it well with a pound and a half of pounded common salt; if in one piece,
lay it upon a board with another over it; if in more than one piece, let each
piece have a board with a weight at the top; keep it in a cool place four or
five weeks; hang it to dry but not to be smoked.   873.--TO BOIL
BACON. 
 If very salt, soak it in soft water two hours before cooking.
Put it into a saucepan with plenty of water, and let it boil gently; if
two or three pounds, it will take from an hour to an hour and a quarter; if
larger, an hour and forty minutes will suffice. If a fine piece of the gammon
of bacon, it may when done have the skin, as in hams,
stripped off, and have finely powdered bread raspings strewed over it.
It will improve the ap pearance when sent to table.   874.--BACON, TO
BROIL. 
 Make up a sheet of paper in the shape of a dripping-pan, cut your
bacon into thin slices, cut off the rind, lay the bacon on
the paper, put it over the gridiron, set it over a slow fire, and it
will broil clearly.   875.--BACON, TO MAKE. 
 Rub the bacon with a little common salt, and let them lie till
the brine runs from them; in a week rub off all the salt, and put
them in a tub, then rub into the flitches a pound of saltpetre pounded
and heated, the next day do the same with common salt, also heated; let
them life a week, often rubbing them; do the same for three weeks or a month,
at the end of that time dry and hang them up for use.   876.--BACON
AND CABBAGE. 
 Boil some fine streaked part of bacon with a little stock, and
the ends of eight or ten sausages, boil in the same stock some
white cabbages for two hours; add: salt and spice, and
serve very hot; place your sausages and cabbage round your dish,
and the bacon in the middle.   877.--MOCK BRAWNS. 
 Put four feet, two ears, and two chops of a pig into
two quarts of water, and let it boil for several hours, till the
bones can be picked from the meat; then pour it into a basin;
skim off the fat, and take away all the bones; put it again into
a saucepan with a little chopped parsley and sweet herbs, dried
and rubbed small, cayenne pepper, salt, and pounded mace,
let it boil for ten minutes; dip a mould into cold water, pour in the
mixture; let it get cool; turn out, and garnish with parsley and
barberries, or slices of lemon.   878.--EXCELLENT SAUSAGE
CAKES. 
 Chop some lean pork very fine, having previously detached all the
skin and  bone, and to every pound
of meat add three-quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce
of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, the quarter of a
nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, and a little
chopped parsley; when the whole is well chopped, put into a mortar and
pound well, finishing with three eggs; then have ready a pig's
caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold a piece of the above
preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape of an
egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate
fire.   879.--PIGS' FEET. (Soyer.) 
 Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, which boil in
water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut
each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some
sausage-meat as in the last, and a pig's caul, which cut into
pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well surrounded with
sausage-meat; when well wrapped up broil slowly half an hour over a
moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the pigs' feet are well
broiled, egg over, and throw them into some grated crust of
bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley, broil a nice
color, and serve with a little plain gravy. This is called a la Ste.
Menehould.   880.--PIGS' KIDNEYS. 
 Out them open lengthwise, season well with pepper and salt,
egg over with a paste brush, dip into bread-crumbs, with
which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a
skewer through to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an hour over
a good fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of
butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little
pepper and salt, and a tea-spoonful of French or common
mustard; place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the
oven for one minute, and serve. Pigs' kidneys may also be sauted
as directed for ox kidneys.   DISHES FROM THE REMAINS OF PORK.
881.--HASHED PORK. 
 Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a
wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and
a bay-leaf; reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a
pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked
into thin, small slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and
salt, shake a good teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together,
and put into the stewpan; let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your
dish, and serve with slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard
may be added, if approved of. or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is
excellent. The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if
required hot, may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered saute
or fryingpan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter,
and served with a puree of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of
peas until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done, put them into a
stewpan with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and
salt, add a gill of milk or cream, pour into the dish, and
dress the pork over. 
 It may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate, and pour some
ketchup or Harvey sauce over it, and let it remain for half an
hour; butter the inside of a pudding basin, and lay some of the remains
of peas pudding round it, and then place in the pork, cover it
with some of the pudding, place it in a sauce-pan with a little
water to get hot, for about half an hour, and then turn it out and
serve. Should you not have quite pork enough, you may make it up with a
little sausage-meat or any other kind of meat.    882.--FRITADELLA. (Twenty receipts in one.)  
 Put half a pound of crumb of bread to soak in a pint of cold
water, take the same quantity of any kind of roast or boiled meat,
with a little fat, chop it up like sausage-meat, then put your
bread in a clean cloth, press it to extract all the water,
put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of chopped
onions, fry for two minutes, then add the bread; stir with a
wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a
teaspoonful of salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated
nutmeg, the same of lemon-peel, stir continually until very
hot; then add two eggs, one at a time, well mix together, and pour on a
dish to get cold. Then take a piece as big as a small egg, and roll it
to the same shape, flatten it a little, egg and bread-crumb over,
keeping the shape; do all of it the same way; then put into a saute-pan, a
quarter of a pound of lard, or clean fat, or oil; when
hot, but not too much so, put in the pieces, and saute a very nice yellow
color, and serve very hot, plain, on a napkin, or on a border of mashed
potatoes, with any sauce or gar niture you fancy. These can be made
with the remains of any kind of meat, poultry, game, fish,
and even vegetables; hard eggs, or cold mashed potatoes may be
introduced in small quantities, and may be fried instead of sauted, in which
case put about two pounds of fat in the frying-pan, and if care is used
it will do several times. This is an entirely new and very economical and
palatable dish, and fit for all seasons, and if once tried would be often
repeated; the only ex pense attending it is the purchase of a small wire sieve
for the bread-crumbs. The reason I call it twenty receipts in one is,
that all kinds of food may be used for it, even shrimps, oysters, and
lobsters.   882.--RAMIFOLLE. 
 These are a little more expensive than the fritadella, and worthy the table
of a crowned head. The flesh of fowls in stead of lamb or
veal, with the addition of one or two fat livers cut in dice.
Proceed as in the former receipt, using the crumb of French rolls, and
one or two truffles cut fine: then make some pancake batter, and saute
two pancakes about one-eighth of an inch thick, cover one with the meat.
&c., and lay the other over, and put by until cold; when so, cut them to
any shape you like, but if like cutlets add the small bone of fowl or
pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of pars ley; egg and
bread-crumb them, and saute them in oil or lard of a nice
yel low color, and dish them like cutlets, with any of the sauces or garnitures
de scribed for mutton cutlets; or if plain, with fried parsley.
They may be made of any kind of meat, fish, or poultry, I have
latterly had them sent up to table when we have had a few friends, and they
have been very much liked; and, on inquiring the name, I baptized them
Ramifolle, without any particular mean ing, which name having pleased as much,
as the dish, therefore let them be called Ramifolles. 
 They may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver,
and spread over one pancake, which roll over, and when cold cut it into three
equal lengths, egg, bread-crumb, and saute as above. 
 884.--PRUSSIAN OUTLETS. 
 Take a piece of veal, say one pound, from any part of the
calf, free from nerve, with a little fat, chop it up, but not too
fine, add to it two teaspoonfuls of chop ped eschalot, one of
salt, half a one of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, chop
it a little more, and make it into pieces of the size of two walnuts, to
which give the shape of a cutlet; egg and bread-crumb
each; insert a small bone at the small end, saute it in fat,
oil, lard, or butter, give it ten minutes on a slow
fire  till a nice brown color, dish and serve with
demi-glaze sauce, in which you have put a spoonful of Harvey's, and
serve with any brown or white sauce of stew ed vegetables you like. Any
kind of meat may be used.   885.--CUTLETS A LA VICTIME, OR VICTIMIZED
CUTLETS. 
 Invented by a culinary artist in the time of Louis XVIII., of France, at the
palace of the Tuileries, and first partaken of by that intellectual monarch and
gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy reign, through a serious illness, was
com pletely paralyzed. The functionary or gans of his digestion were much out
of order; being a man of great corpulence, and a great admirer of the festive
board, much food was required to satisfy his royal appetite: and the difficulty
which his physicians experienced was to supply this want of food in the
smallest com pass. The head-cook, on being consult ed, begged a few
hours for reflection be fore he could give an answer to so im portant a
question, as nothing but mut ton entirely deprived of fat was to com
pose his Majesty's meal. After profound study by the chief and his satellites,
a voice was heard from the larder, which was a considerable ways from the
kitchen, crying, "I have found it, I have found it." It was that of a young man
of the name of Alphonse Pottier, who, in say ing so, made his appearance in the
kitchen with three beautiful mutton cut lets tastefully trimmed and tied
together; he then, with a small skewer, fastened them to a spit, and placed
them, to the astonishment of all present, close to the bars of the grate: two
of the cutlets soon got brown (observe, not a word was to be said until the
trial was made), from brown they soon turned black; every one gazed at each
other with as tonishment, whilst Pottier, with quite a composed countenance,
terminated his scientific experiment, took them off the spit, drew the skewer
out, cut the string, threw the two burnt cutlets away, and merely served the
middle one, which seems to have received all the nutriment of the other two; it
was served, and greatly approved of by the physicians, as well as by the
gourmet potentate, who, in consequence of two being sacri ficed for one, named
it, "Cutlet a la Vie time," and often afterwards used to par take of
them when in the enjoyment of health.   886.--CUTLET À LA
VICTIME. 
 Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, about half an inch thick,
trim one very nicely, free from fat, leave the other two as cut off, put
the trimmed one between the two, flatten them to gether, so that the fat
of the outside ones meet over the middle one; tie them together thus, and broil
over a very strong fire for ten minutes; remove it from the fire, cut the
string, and dish up the middle one only on a very hot dish, with a little
salt sprinkled over it. If wanted roasted, proceed as above. 
 SAUSAGES AND FORCE-MEAT. 887.--SAUSAGES. 
 IN making sausages there is so great a variety of both meat
and condiments, that the cook need not be tied down to any rule of composition.
The usual mode is to put the preparation into the cleaned skins of the
entrail-puddings of the smaller animals; in which the sausages, being
always well seasoned, will keep sound for a few days, and are then broiled as a
garnish for large dishes, or fried for breakfast. As these skins are,
how ever, not always to be found, the sausage-meat may then be bound
together  with the yolk of egg and
bread-crumbs, made into the form of sausages, or as croquettes of
any small size; then flour ed, nicely warmed, and browned in the
frying-pan or Dutch oven until perfectly done. If more be made than is wanted
for immediate use, it may be put away in a cool place, packed closely down, in
a stone jar, and securely covered for some other occasion. For the spicing of
sau sages no rule can be laid down, as tastes and custom are constantly
varying.   888.--COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT. 
 Take any quantity of lean beef or pork, with half the quantity
of fat. and having freed the lean of every particle of skin,
sinew, and gristle, then mince both it and the fat as fine as possible;
putting to each pound of meat a large teaspoon ful of pepper and
the same quantity of salt; strew this on the meat, and mix the
whole thoroughly together, as a :stock for further seasoning. 
 Take six pounds of meat, fat and lean; cut the fat into
small pieces, and pound the lean portion in a mortar, with two table-spoonfuls
of salt, one of moist sugar, a teaspoonful of saltpetre,
and two table-spoonfuls of mixed spices. To this may be added the grated
peel of a lem on, and a small portion of sage and thyme, well
chopped. 
 
 Or: --To the meat of a leg of pork of about
four pounds' weight, add two pounds of fat from the fore loin,
chop both very fine; then add two nutmegs grated, twenty cloves,
a teaspoonful of pounded or grated lemon-peel, two or three blades of
mace pounded, one ounce of the best salt, and one-half ounce of
black pepper; mix all together and stuff it into the skins, which
should be well cleansed, and salted the night before. This sausage-meat
would be much im proved for immediate use, by pounding the meat and
mixing it with a third por tion of white bread soaked in milk and
also pounded, Vending the whole to gether with a beaten egg. 
 889.--BEEF SAUSAGES. 
 Though not nearly so good as those of pork, yet, if made at home, may
be found a pleasant and economical mode of using the scraps of raw meat.
Proceed as for pork sausages.   890.--MUTTON SAUSAGES.  
 Take a pound of undressed mutton, or that which has been underdone,
chop it very small, and season it with pepper, salt, and beaten
mace. Chop also half a pound of beef suet, two anchovies,
a pint of oysters, a quarter of a pound of grated bread, and a
boiled onion; mix the whole with the oyster liquor, and the
whites and yolks of two eggs well beaten; pound the whole in a
mortar. Roll into lengths, corks, or balls, and fry them.   891.--AN
EXCELLENT SAUSAGE TO EAT COLD. 
 Season fat and lean pork with some salt,
saltpetre, black pepper, and allspice, all in fine powder,
and rub into the meat; the sixth day cut it small, and mix with it some
shred shalot, or garlic, as fine as. possible. Have ready an
ox-gut that has been scoured, salted, and soaked well, and fill it with
the above stuffing; tie up the ends, and hang it to smoke as you would
hams, but first wrap it in a, fold or two of old muslin. It must be
high-dried. Some eat it without boiling, but others like it boiled first. The
skid should be tied in different places, so as to make each link about eight or
nine inches long.   892.--OYSTER SAUSAGES.  
 Take one pound of veal and a score of oysters bearded, then
pound the veal very finely in a mortar with a little suet, season
  with a little pepper, soak a piece of
bread in the oyster-liquor, pound, and add it with the
oysters cut in pieces to the veal; beat up an egg to bind
them together, and roll them into little lengths, like sausages; fry
them in butter a deli cate brown. 
 
 Or: --Take half a pound of lean mut ton or
beef, with three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, and two score
of oysters bearded. Mince the whole and add bread-crumbs, with
two yolks of eggs to bind the materials together. Season with
salt, white pepper, a little mace, and mushroom
powder. 
 Put it either in skins, or fry the sausage-meat of a light
brown in small pieces.   893.--VEAL AND POULTRY SAUSAGES. 
 Sausages may also be made of the re mains of veal,
turkey, or fowl, which have been dressed. Of either of these put
equal quantities of meat and bread-crumbs, with half that of
ham, seasoned with parsley, lemon-thyme, and
chives. Mix the materials with a little pepper, salt, and
pounded mace, the yolk of an egg, and half a teaspoonful of
flour; make it up as saugages or small rolls to garnish fricassees or
minced meat, or as a nice supper dish, piled round a
sweet-bread. 
 
 Or: --Chop equal quantities of lean veal and
fat bacon, a handful of sage, a little salt and
pepper, and a few ancho vies, beat all in a mortar; and when used, roll
and fry it, and serve it with fried sippets, or on stewed vegetables, or on
white collops.   894.--FOWL OR RABBIT SAUSAGES. 
 Take the remains of a fowl, rabbit, or hare; when
boiled or roasted, free it from the bones, and cut it small. Boil some
onions in strong gravy; when the onions are quite soft
pound them, season with salt, pepper, parsley, two
cloves, and a blade of mace; pound the meat also, cut some
bacon into small pieces, and add it. Mix up these ingredients with the
yolk of an egg, add a little lemon-juice or
lemon-pickle, or chop a little sorrel with the herbs, fill the
skins, and broil them. 
 Such are the sausages usually made in this country, and most commonly
eaten fresh; but, in Europe, many sorts are made of a rather large size, sea
soned in different modes, and smoked, with the intention of keeping them good
for a long time, as the Brunswick, Bay onne, and Bologna, which may
always be found in the foreign oil-shops in Eng land. There is, however,
another kind, which we Jo not recollect to have ever seen in London, though
constantly used throughout the peninsula.   895.--SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE
SAUSAGES 
 Are made from the fat and lean of the back and loins of a well-fed
two-year old hog, cut into small pieces of less than half an inch
square, and then either fine ly minced or pounded together, and strongly
seasoned with cloves of garlic and green or red capsicums or
chilis; but as these cannot always be conveniently procured in this
country, cayenne pepper may be substituted. The whole should then be
covered with any sort of strong, dry wine, until absorbed by the
ingredients, which will occupy perhaps a few days, according to the
quantity. 
 Fill the largest skins you can get with the meat, fat
and lean, alternately, occa sionally adding some of the wine. Tie up in
links, and hang them in a room where they will not get damp or become too dry,
and they will keep twelve months. 
 They are sometimes fried, and eaten either alone or as a relish with
poultry, but more frequently put into stews; and, 
in Spain, always boiled along with the olla, under the name of "Chorisos." 
 896.--BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put a quart of it, or
rather more, to a quart of whole grits, to soak one night; and soak the
crumb of a wheat loaf in rather more than two quarts of new milk
made hot. In the mean time prepare the guts by washing, turning, and
scraping, with salt and water, and chang ing the water several
times. Chop fine a little winter savory and thyme, a good
quantity of pennyroyal, pepper, and salt, a few cloves,
some allspice, ginger, and nutmeg; mix these with three
pounds of beef suet, and six eggs well beaten and strained; and
then beat the bread, grits, &c., all up with the
seasoning; when well mixed, have ready some hog's fat cut into
dice, and, as you fill the skins, put it in at proper distances. Tie in
links only half filled, and boil in a large kettle, pricking them as they
swell, or they will burst. When boiled, lay them between clean clothes, or upon
straw, till cold, and hang them up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald them
a few minutes in water; wipe, and put them into a Dutch oven. 
 If there are not skins enough, put the stuffing into basins,
and boil it covered with floured cloths; and slice and fry it when
used. 
 
 Or: --Soak all night a quart of bruised grits
in as much boiling hot milk as will swell them, and leave half a pint of
liquid. Chop a good quantity of pennyroyal, some leaves of sage,
savory, and thyme, with salt, pepper, and
allspice finely pow dered. Mix the above with a quart of the blood,
prepared as before directed; then half fill the skins, after they have
been cleaned thoroughly, and put as much of the flare (that is, the inward
fat) of the pig as will make it pretty rich. Boil as before
directed. A small quantity of leeks, finely shred and well mixed, is a
great improvement.   897.--WHITE PUDDINGS. 
 To two parts of beef suet chopped, add one part of oatmeal
previously toasted before the fire; boil an onion or two, and chop them
with pepper and salt; mix the whole well together; put the
ingredients into skins, and boil them for an hour, pricking them as they
boil to prevent their bursting. They will keep for some time in bran after they
have been allowed to become cold. Parboil them when wanted, and then broil them
on a grid iron. 
 The quantity of suet may seem dispro portioned to the oatmeal;
but unless there are two-thirds of the former to one of the latter, the
puddings will be dry and fat. They require to be highly seasoned with
pepper and onions.   FORCEMEAT. 
 French cooks pride themselves, and very justly, on the pains which they be
stow on the elaboration of their force-meat, or farce. It is an art in
which they have attained superior excellence, but in which there is no great
difficulty. 
 At many tables, where every thing else is well done, it is common to find
very bad stuffing, which, according to what it is wanted for, should be
a judicious se lection, observing that of the most pun gent articles least must
be used. A gen eral fault is, that the tastes of lemon-peel and
thyme overcome all others, therefore they should only be used in small
quantities; and except in a few very savory dishes, cayenne, and
pepper of all kinds should be sparingly used. No one flavor should
predominate great ly; yet if several dishes be served the same day, there
should be a marked variety  in the tastes of the
forcemeats as well as of the gravies. 
 The forcemeat should be consistent enough to be cut with a knife, but
not dry and heavy. Herbs are a very essen tial ingredient, and it is the
copious but judicious use of them that chiefly gives the cookery of the French
its superior flavor. 
 Bacon or butter must always be sub stituted for suet
when the forcemeat is to be eaten cold. 
 The flavor given to the bread, or panada, is considered to be of
great importance, and the highest point of perfection may be obtained by
attending to the following directions:--   898.--HOW TO MAKE QUENELLES OF
FORCEMEAT. 
 Have two table-spoons, dessert or teaspoons, according to the size you
intend making quenelles; fill one of them with the forcemeat; dip the
other spoon into boiling water, and with it remove the forcemeat
from the first spoon, and slip it from that into a buttered saute-pan,
proceeding thus until you have as many as you require; then cover them with
some second stock, and boil them about ten minutes, or until firm, and
they are ready for use.   899.--PANADA FOE FORCEMEATS. 
 Put two-thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a
quart, with near ly an ounce of butter; when boiling, stir in a quarter
of a pound of flour; keep it moving over the fire until it forms a
smooth and toughish paste; take it out of the stewpan, and when cold,
use it where directed.   900.--STUFFING FOR VEAL. 
 Chop up half a pound of beef suet very fine; put it in a basin, with
eight ounces of bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of chopped
parsley, a little powdered thyme and marjoram, half the
rind of a lemon grated, and the juice of half a one; sea son with a
spoonful of salt, and a quarter one of pepper, and one-quarter of
a nut meg; mix the whole with three whole eggs; this will do also
to stuff turkey or baked fish, adding some more chopped
parsley.   901.--STUFFING FOB HARE OR TURKEY. 
 Take half a pound of beef suet chopped very fine, some
parsley, a little thyme, pepper, salt, and
spices, the same quantity of crumbs of bread as of suet,
an egg or two, and mix the whole with a little milk. It would not
be amiss to put to it a very small bit of butter, and to pound the whole
in a mortar for a short time. This stuffing may be used with baked pike,
or with either roasted or boiled turkey, roasted hare, &c.;
in short, with all such articles as will be mentioned in this work. If the
taste of shalot is not objected to, it will be found to add to the flavor of
the stuffing. If you do not like to put it into the mortar, take the
roll ing-pin and mix it with it on the table, which is a better method. 
 CURING MEAT, POTTING, AND COLLARING.   902.--CURING. 
 In salting all meat, care should be taken to remove the kernels,
otherwise it will soon become tainted. It should be sprin kled with a handful
of common salt to fetch out the blood, the brine thrown away on
the following day, and the meat wiped with a dry cloth; it is then ready
to be cured in any of the undermentioned ways. Too much care cannot be taken in
the first salting to rub between every muscle or under every flap of the
meat; as for want of this care it may have an unpleasant taste, though
sufficiently salted.  
 The brine will serve again, by being boiled and skimmed, which may be
re peated as long as any scum will rise. Hams should be laid with the
rind-side downwards: and it is a good plan to heat a quarter peck of
common salt in a fry ing-pan, and lay it at the bottom of the pan. A
small quantity of saltpetre is necessary to produce the fine red color
either in ham or beef; but much will make the meat hard,
and the proportions of sugar and salt should be varied accord ing
to the preference given to highly salted provisions, or those which are cured
milder.   903.--TO CORN BEEF. 
 A Round of Beef of eighteen or twenty pounds' weight.--Mix an ounce
and a half of sal-prunella, three ounces of brown sugar, half an
ounce of black pepper, six ounces of fine salt, a quarter of an
ounce of cloves pounded, the same of nutmeg, and half a pound of
common salt: take out the bone, and rub the piece over with
common salt: let it remain for a day or two, and then rub into it the
above in gredients finely powdered and thoroughly mixed; let it lie a
fortnight, and turn it daily. It should then be hung up in a dry place; and, if
possible, smoked till wanted for use, when it should be either boiled gently,
or baked in a deep dish covered with coarse paste.   This, it may
however be observed, is rather a superior mode; as the common way is merely to
use fine salt, with occa sionally a little saltpetre to give a
tinge of redness to the meat, which is seldom smoked, except for very
large joints. Many persons, indeed, think the meat best when stewed; in
which case, put no more water in the pot than will barely cover the
meat, and keep it gently sim mering for four, five, or six hours, accord
ing to the size of the joint.   904.--TO SALT BEEF RED. 
 Choose a piece of beef with as little bone as you can (the
flank is the best), sprinkle it, and let it drain a day; then rub it with
common salt, a small propor tion of saltpetre, fine salt,
and a little coarse sugar; you may add a few grains of cochineal,
all in fine powder. Rub the pickle every day into the meat for a
week, then only turn it. 
 It will be excellent in eight days. In sixteen, drain it from the
pickle; and let it be smoked at the oven's mouth when heated with wood,
or send it to the baker's. A few days will smoke it. It is extremely good eaten
fresh from the pickle, boiled tender with greens or car rots. If to be
grated, then cut a lean bit; boil it till extremely tender, and while hot. put
it under a press. When cold, fold it in a sheet of paper, and it will
keep in a dry place two or three months, ready for serving on bread and
butter.   905.--THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF. 
 Take a lean piece of beef; rub it well with treacle or
brown sugar, and turn it often. In three days wipe it, and salt
it with common salt and saltpetre beaten fine; rub them well in,
and turn it every day for a fortnight, Roll it tight in a coarse cloth, and
press it under a heavy weight; hang to dry in wood-smoke; but turn it upside
down every day. Boil it in pump water, and press it; it will grate or
cut into shivers, and makes a good breakfast dish. 
 To twelve pounds of beef the proportion of common salt is one
pound.   906.--SPICED BEEF. 
 Make a brine with half a pound of salt, half an ounce of
saltpetre, half a pound of sugar, thirty cloves, as many
allspice and black peppercorns, six bay-leaves; crack the
spice; put it on to boil for a few minutes in a pint of water;
when cold, pour it over a piece of beef about ten pounds. Turn it every
day for a fortnight  
 When required for use, put the beef into a deep pan with the
brine, a little water, and about one pound of suet. Bake
it until tender; let it get cold in the brine.   907.--HUNG
BEEF. (the Derrynane Receipt.) 
 Rub the beef well with salt and saltpetre, in the
proportion of two ounces of saltpetre and seven pounds of salt to
fifty pounds of beef. Put the beef into a cask or tub, place a
board over it, and weights upon that; leave it so for about a fortnight, then
take it out and hang it in the kitchen to dry, which will gene-rally take about
three weeks. Some persons leave it for a longer time in the tub, which they
merely cover without the weight; but the above is the better way.   908.--TO
CUBE TONGUES. 
 Neats' tongues cured with the whole root on look much larger,
but have not any other advantage, being too hard to cut pleasantly when
salted. If the root is to be removed, cut it off near the gullet, but without
taking away the fat that is under the tongue. The root must be
soaked in salt and water a night, and extremely well cleaned before it
be dressed, when it is very good stewed with gravy; or it may be salted
two days, and used for pea-soup. Having left the fat and a little
of the kernel under the tongue, sprinkle it with salt and let it
drain until the next day. Then for each tongue mix a large spoonful of
common salt, the same quantity of coarse sugar, half as much
saltpetre, a teaspoonful of ground pepper, and two cloves of
garlic or shalot chopped very fine; rub it well in, and do so every day for
a week 5 then add another large spoonful of salt. If rubbed daily, a
tongue will be ready in ten days; but if only turned in the
pickle, it will not be too salt in four or five weeks, but should
not be kept longer. When to be dried, write the date of the day on
parchment, and tie it on. Smoke three days, or hang them in a dry place without
smoking. When to be dressed, boil the tongue extremely tender; allow
five hours, and if done sooner it is easily kept hot. The longer it is kept
after smoking, the higher will be the flavor; but in the estimation of many
persons, they are best dressed out of the pickle; if hard, it may
require soaking four or five hours. 
 
 or: --Put the tongue into an earthen pan, rub
into it a table-spoonful of saltpetre, a good handful of salt,
and the same quantity of coarse brown sugar; allow the tongue to
remain in the pickle for three weeks, and rub it over every day. Then
take it out and put it into the meat-screen before the fire for two or
three days, till the pickle has entirely drained from it. Then sprinkle
it over with bran, and hang it up in any part of the kitchen with the root-end
uppermost; sew salt tongues up in coarse linen.   909.--TO CURE
SHEEP'S TONGUES. 
 Let the tongues be well washed and cleaned, and lay them in spring
water for half an hour. Take one pound of salt, a gill of
molasses, and half an ounce of saltpetre 5 rub the tongues
well with it, and put them into the pickle: a week or ten days will be
sufficient to cure them.   910.--FOR CURING HAMS. 
 Choose the leg of a hog that is fat and well fed, as well as
of a certain age; for if poor, it is not worth curing, and if not one year old
it will never acquire the fine flavor of a mellow ham. Sprinkle it with
a little salt, and let it drain for a day; then put to it one pound each
of coarse salt and the coarsest sugar, with a  large handful of common salt and four ounces of
saltpetre; rub it thoroughly with this; lay the rind downwards,
and cover the fleshy parts with the salt, with which baste it
frequently, and turn it every second day. Keep it in this for four weeks, then
drain it and throw bran over it; hang it up in a cool place to dry, then sew it
up in a coarse linen wrapper rubbed with lime, and do not dress it until
full three months old. 
 The better way is, however, to smoke it. In country places this is not
uncommonly done by hanging it in a kitchen chimney where wood is burnt, or in
any spare chimney where a smothering fire can be kept up, made of wet straw and
horse-litter, with sawdust or shavings; I but be particular to have them of
oak, for, if of pine, it will give the ham a bad flavor. It will
take three weeks smoking. 
 
 or: --Hang the ham, and sprinkle it with
salt as above; then rub it every day with the following, in fine powder:
a pound of common salt powdered fine, two ounces of salt-petre,
and two ounces of black pepper, mixed with one and a half pints of
molasses.   911.--ANOTHER WAY, THAT GIVES A HIGHER FLAVOR. 
 When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; mix one ounce
of saltpetre with half a pound of common salt, and also of coarse
sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together, and pour
them immediately upon the ham; turn it twice a-day in the pickle
for three weeks. One ounce of black pepper, and the same quantity of
allspice, in fine powder, added to the above, will give still more
flavor. 
 
 Or: --Sprinkle the ham with salt, after
it has hung two or three days 5 let it drain; make a pickle of a quart
of strong beer, half a pound of molasses, one ounce of
coriander-seeds, two ounces of juniper-berries, one ounce of
pepper, the same quantity of allspice, one ounce of
saltpetre, half an ounce of sal-prunella, a handful of common
salt, and a head of shalot, all pounded or cut fine. Boil these all
together a few minutes, and pour them over the ham: this quantity is for
one of ten pounds.   912.--FITZSIMOM FAMILY RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS. 
 Mix one ounce of saltpetre, one pound of common salt; and one
pound of coarse brown sugar, all together, and rub the ham well.
Let it lie for a month in this pickle, turning and basting it every day;
then hang it in wood-smoke in a dry place, where no heat can come to it, and,
if to be kept long, hang it for a month or two in a damp place, and it will eat
firm and short. Observe, hams thus made need not be soaked; put them
into cold water, and let them be three or four hours before they boil,
skimming the pot well and often until it boils. These hams have been
made with a less quantity of salt and an additional quantity of
saltpetre, and it has been found to answer well, the hams being
in that case soaked before boiling.   913.--WESTPHALIA HAMS. 
 Prepare the hams in the usual manner by rubbing them with common
salt and draining them; take one ounce of saltpetre, half a pound of
coarse sugar, and the same quantity of salt; rub it well into the
ham, and in three days pour a pint of vinegar over it, A fine
foreign flavor may also be given to hams by pouring old strong
beer over them, and burning juniper-wood while they are drying:
molasses, juniper-berries, and highly-flavored herbs, such
as basil, sage, bay-leaves, and thyme, mingled
together,  and the hams well rubbed with
it, using only a sufficient quantity of salt to assist in the cure, will
afford an agreeable variety.   914.--MUTTON HAM. 
 Out a hind quarter of mutton in the shape of a ham, and allow
it to hang for two or three days. Mix half a pound of coarse salt, two
ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of common salt, and half a
pound of coarse sugar, all well pounded together, and make them quite
hot before the fire. Then rub it well into the meat, turning it in the
liquor every day; after four days add two ounces more of common salt.
Let it remain twelve days in the brine, then take it out, dry it, and
hang it up in wood-smoke for a week. 
 Another pickle for mutton-ham may be made with one ounce of
saltpetre to one pound of coarse sugar, and one pound of
salt; the ham to be kept in this pickle for a fortnight,
then rolled in sawdust, and hung in wood-smoke for fourteen days. 
 915.--GOOSE HAMS 
 Are made by splitting the goose down the back, rubbing it with a
quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, and then salting it well with
common salt and coarse brown sugar; let it lie in pickle
for ten days in summer and fourteen in winter, rub and turn it every day, roll
it in sawdust and smoke it. 
 In Pomerania, on the shores of the Baltic, where vast numbers are cured, the
breasts are prepared separately as hams, and being much dried in
smoking, are always eaten without further dressing. In the fens of Lincolnshire
the geese, when their feathers have been plucked, are also salted. 
 916.--BACON. 
 The method of curing Malines Bacon, 15* so much admired for its fine
flavor.--Cut off the hams and head of a pig, if a large one 5
take out the chine and leave in the sparerib, as they will keep in the
gravy and prevent the bacon from rusting. Salt it first
with common salt, and let it lie for a day on a table that the blood may
run from it; then make a brine with a pint of bay-salt, a quarter
of a peck of common salt, about a quarter of a pound of
juniper-berries, and some bay-leaves, with as much water as will,
when the brine is made, cover the bacon; when the salt is
dissolved, and when quite cold, if a new-laid egg will swim in it, the
brine may be put on the bacon, which after a week must be rubbed
with the following mixture:--half a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of
sal-prunella, and one pound of coarse sugar 5 after remaining
four weeks it may be hung up in a chimney where wood is burned; shavings, with
sawdust and a small quantity of turf, may be added to the fire at times. 
 917.--THE BLACK POOL RECEIPT FOR CURING BACON. 
 For a middling-sized hog take twelve pounds of the best common
salt, and one pound of saltpetre pounded very finely; rub it in
well, and cover the meat about an inch thick, hams, chaps, and
all; placing it with the rind downwards. Let it remain for a week; then
take off the salt; turn the whole with the rind upwards; then lay
the salt on again for another week. Then remove the salt, and
turn it a second time; lay on the salt and let it remain four clays
longer. It will then be properly salted. Wipe it clean; rub it all over with
dry salt; and hang it where it will have a little air of the fire, until
it is dry. Then sew it up in whity-brown paper, and hang it in a dry
place where no heat can come to it; and, if these precautions are taken, it
will not get rusty.  
 The meat must be salted on a board that is well perforated with
holes, to let the brine run from it; and it must be covered up closely
with a coarse cloth to keep out the air; and, while salting, take care to lay
the pieces as close as possible one upon the other.   918.--WILTSHIRE
BACON.  
 Sprinkle each flitch with salt 5 and let the blood drain off for
twenty-four hours. Then mix one pound and a half of coarse sugar, the
same quantity of fine salt, six ounces of saltpetre, and four
pounds of coarse salt; rub this well on the bacon, turning and
wetting it in every part, daily for a month; then hang it to dry, and
afterwards smoke it ten days.   919.--TO CURE BACON FOR LARDING AND
BRAISING. 
 Take the fattest part of the pork, and to every ten pounds use one
pound of pounded salt; rub it very well over; put the pieces one upon
another upon boards, and lay boards with a heavy weight upon the top 5 leave it
in a dry cool place for about a month; then hang it up to dry without smoking.
The hardest is the best for larding; and bacon cured in this way is
preferable for culinary purposes, since the saltpetre usually employed
will turn veal or poultry red, when braised with any portion of the
lean.   920.--HOG'S CHEEKS. 
 Cut out the snout; remove the brains; and split the head,
taking off the upper bone, to make the chowl a good shape; rub it well
with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again
the following day with three quarts of common salt, and a pound and a
quarter of brown sugar; put into a gallon and a half of spring
water; stir it until the whole is dissolved. This quantity will be
sufficient for three pair of chaps 5 be careful to turn them in the
brine at least every other day, and to keep them well covered. Dry them
in wood-ashes.   921.--BRAWN. 
 Split and nicely clean a hog's head; take out the brains; cut
off the ears, and rub a good deal of salt into the head;
let it drain twenty-four hours 5 then lay upon it two ounces of
saltpetre, and the same of common salt, for three days; lay the
head and salt into a pan, with just water to cover it. for
two days more. 
 Wash it well, and boil until the bones will come out; remove them,
and chop the meat as quickly as possible in pieces of an inch long; but
first take the skin carefully off the head and the tongue;
the latter also cut in bits. Season with pepper and salt. Put the
skin of one side of the head into a small long pan; press the
chopped head and tongue into it, and lay the skin of the
other side of the head, over, and press it down. When cold, it will turn
out. The head may probably be too fat; in which case, prepare a
few bits of lean pork with the head. Boil two ounces of
salt, a pint of vinegar, and a quart of the liquor, and, when
cold, pour it over the head. The ears are to be boiled longer
than the head; cut in thin strips, and divided about it, the hair being
nicely removed. Reboil the pickle often.   922.--ANOTHER MOCK BRAWN.  
 Boil a pair of neat's feet very tender; take the meat off, and
have ready the belly-piece of pork, salted with common salt and
saltpetre, fur a week. Boil this till nearly done 5 take out the
bones, and roll the feet and the pork together. Then roll
it very tight with a strong cloth and coarse tape. Boil it till very tender;
then hang it up in the cloth till cold; after which keep it in a sousing
liquor.   923.--TO KEEP BRAWN, THE CAMBRIDGE WAY. 
 To two gallons of water, put one pound 
of wheat-bran, and one pound of salt; boil one hour; when cold,
strain it; and keep the brawn in it. In ten or twelve days fresh pickle
will be required. If, by length of carriage or neglect, the brawn be kept too
long out of pickle, make as above; and when rubbed well with
salt, and washed with some of the pickle, it will be quite
restored to its former goodness.   924.--TO PICKLE PORK. 
 Take half a bushel of common salt, one pound of coarse salt,
half a pound of saltpetre, and six pounds of coarse brown sugar;
make hams of the legs. Take the sides of the pork, and rub
them well with common salt; lay a thin bed of salt in the tray,
and place one of the sides in it; sprinkle with salt to cover it; lay
the other side on the top, and sprinkle it also. Let them lie two or three
days, rubbing the salt well in; then cover the whole with the other
ingredients; and, as soon as the salt begins to give, rub them well in;
turn the sides frequently, and let them be covered with brine; it will
be fit for use in six or eight weeks.   925.--A PICKLE 
 That will keep for years, for hams, tongues, or beef,
if boiled and skimmed between each parcel of them.--To two gallons of spring
water put two pounds of coarse sugar, two pounds of coarse, and two
and a half pounds of common salt, and half a pound of saltpetre,
in a deep earthen glazed pan that will hold four gallons, and with a cover that
will fit close. Keep the beef or hams as long as they will
bear before you put them into the pickle; and sprinkle them with
coarse sugar in a pan, from which they must drain. Rub the hams,
&c., well with the pickle; and pack them in close, putting as much
as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover them. The
pickle is not to be boiled at first. A small ham may lie fourteen
days; a large one three weeks; a tongue twelve days; and beef in
proportion to its size. They will eat well out of the pickle without
drying. When they are to be dried, let each piece be drained over the pan; and
when it will drop no longer, take a clean sponge and dry it thoroughly. Six or
eight hours will smoke them; and there should be only a little sawdust and wet
straw burnt to do this; but if put into a baker's chimney, sew them in a coarse
cloth, and hang them a week. Add two pounds of common salt, and two
pints of water, every time you boil the liquor.   926.--POTTING AND
COLLARING. 
 To pot and collar are only different modes of preserving fish and
meat for a longer time than they could be kept fresh; chiefly, in the
instance of potting, by pounding the materials with seasoning, when
dressed, and then putting small portions in closely covered jars or pots; while
collaring is done by slicing portions of the meat or fish; and,
when well seasoned, rolling it in round pieces; to be eaten cold, as
savory dishes, at breakfast and luncheon. 
 In potting, take care to wait until the meat is cold; press the
meat firmly into the pots; but, before putting it there, drain the
gravy thoroughly from the meat or the gravy will turn it
sour; then cover well with clarified butter, and tie over it
oil-skin, or oiled paper, to exclude the air.   927.--TO
CLARIFY BUTTER. 
 Put your boat into a saucepan of cold water, and set it over a slow
fire until it melts; then take it off the fire; take off the scum, and again
warm it gently. After being used, it will still serve for basting, or for
meat-pie paste, and is also excellent for fish sauce. In
Collaring, be careful to roll the meat tightly, and bind it firmly. Let
it  also be thoroughly done; left in a cool place;
sometimes rubbed with pickle, but always wiped perfectly dry. 
 928.--TO POT SHELL-FISH. 
 Boil lobsters and shrimps in salt and water; pick the
meat out of the tails and claws; put them into a stewpan, with a little
butter, some chopped mushrooms or truffles, and simmer a
short time over a gentle fire. When nearly done, beat the yolks of two
or three eggs, with a teacupful of cream, and a little chopped
parsley; let all stew together for a few minutes, until rendered as
consistent as paste, and set it as above stated. 
 
 or: --When boiled, take them out of their shells, and
season them with salt, white pepper, and a very little
mace and nutmeg; but use the spice very sparingly, only
just sufficient to preserve the fish for a few days in a fresh
state, as they: will not keep good much longer. Press them into a pot; lay a
little butter over them; and bake in a slow oven for ten minutes. When
cold, cover with clarified butter. 
 Shrimps may also be potted whole, by putting them for a few minutes in
clarified butter, seasoned as above, and gently heated; then put into
pots, and cover with more butter, to totally prevent the admission of
air. Cover the pots also with oil-skin.   929.--TO POT POULTRY AND
GAME. 
 Chickens.--Take as much lean of boiled ham as you may think
proper, and half the quantity of fat; each cut as thin as possible; beat
it very fine in a mortar, with a little clarified butter, pounded
mace, pepper, and salt--if the ham be not
sufficiently impregnated. To this add the white part of the fowl,
also pounded, but without seasoning, as it is only intended to qualify
the savoriness of the ham. Then either mix the whole together, or put a
layer of ham ana chicken alternately; press it hard in the
pots; bake in a cool oven for half an hour; pour over it clarified
butter to the thickness of a crown piece, and paste over it a piece
of paper, which may be oiled when the paste is dry. 
 Let them be quite fresh; clean them carefully, and season them with
salt and pepper; lay them close in a small deep pan 5 for, the
smaller the surface, and the closer they are packed, the less butter
will be wanted. Cover them with but-ter; then with very thick paper; tie
down and bake them. When cold, put them dry into pots that will hold two or
three in each; and pour butter over them, using that which was baked as
part. Observe that the butter should be pretty thick over them if they
are to be kept. If pigeons were boned and then put in an oval form into
the pot, they would lie closer and require less butter. They may be
stuffed with a fine forcemeat made with veal, bacon,
&c. If a high flavor is approved of, add mace, allspice, and
a little cayenne, before baking.   930.--PARTRIDGES AND
PHEASANTS. 
 Clean them nicely, and season with mace, allspice, white
pepper and salt, in fine powder, or seasoning spice. Rub
every part well; then lay the breasts downwards in a pan, and pack the
birds as close as you possibly can. Put a good deal of butter on them;
then cover the pan with a coarse flour paste, and a paper over;
tie it close, and bake. When cold, put the birds into pots, and cover them with
butter. 
 
 or: --When baked and grown cold, cut them into proper
pieces for helping; pack them close into a large potting-pan, and (if possible)
leave no spaces to receive the butter. Cover them with butter,
and one-third part less will be wanted than when the birds are done
whole.    931.--HARE. 
 Hang up a hare four or five days, with the skin on; then case
it, and cut it up as for eating; put it in a pot, and season it with
mace, pepper, and salt; put one pound of butter
upon it; tie it down, and bake in a bread oven till tender. When it
comes out, pick it from the bones, and pound to a smooth consistence
with the fat from the butter, and pot it in the usual way. 
 932.--RABBITS. 
 Out up two or three young, but full-grown ones 5 and take the
leg-bones off at the thigh 5 pack them as closely as possible in
a small pan, after seasoning them with pepper, mace,
cayenne, salt, allspice, all in very fine powder. Make the
top as smooth as you can. Keep out the liver and the carcases; but take
off the meat above the neck. Put a good deal of butter;
and bake the whole gently. Keep it two days in the pan 5 then shift it into
small pots, adding butter. The livers also should be added, as
they eat well.   933.--BEEF POTTED. 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, salt it two or three days with
half a pound of salt and half an ounce of saltpetre; divide it
into pieces of a pound each, and put it into an earthen pan just sufficient to
contain it; pour in half a pint of water, cover it close with
paste, and set in a slow oven for four hours. When taken from the oven
pour the gravy from it into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten
it with the gravy poured from the meat, and pound it thoroughly
in a marble mortar with fresh butter until it becomes a fine
paste; season it with black pepper and allspice, or
cloves pounded, or nutmeg grated; put it in pots, press it down
as close as possible, put a weight on it and let it stand all night 5 next day,
when quite cold, cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified
butter, and tie it over with paper.   934.--BEEF POTTED
LIKE VENISON. 
 Take a whole thin flank of beef, pull off the inward skin, and
cut it across and across, particularly in the thickest parts, lay it for six
hours in hard water, take as much saltpetre as the quantity of an
egg, mix with about two pounds of white salt, and rub it well
into the meat; then sprinkle upon it nearly a pint of wine
vinegar, and then let it lie for three or four days, turning and rubbing it
once a day, then rinse it out of the brine with a pint of claret, and
season it with cloves, mace, and nutmeg, white and
Jamaica pepper, of each a quarter of an ounce; bake all together with
savory, thyme, sage, and the rind of a lemon shred
together, and then well rubbed into the cuts and slashes on the inside; then
bind it up with tape, and lay it in a long pot; put in the claret, and lay the
skins at the top to save it, then bake it.   935.--BIRDS POTTED--HOW
TO PRESERVE WHEN THEY BEGIN TO GROW OLD. 
 When birds are sent a long way they often smell so bad that they can hardly
be borne, from the rankness of the butter 5 by doing them in the
following way they will be as if only fresh done. Set a large saucepan of
clean water on the fire, when it boils take off the butter at the
top, then take the fowls one by one, throw them in the saucepan of
water half a minute, take one out and dry it well inside and out, do so
till they are all done, scald your pot clean; when the birds are quite cold
season with mace, pepper, and salt, according to taste:
put them down close in a pot, put clarified butter over them. 
 936.--CHICKEN AND HAM POTTED. 
 Season some pieces of chicken with 
mace, cloves, and pepper, and bake it for about two hours
in a close covered pan, with some water, then pound them quite small,
moistening with either melted butter, or the liquor that they are baked
in, pound some, and put this with the chicken in alternate layers, in
pots or pans 5 press them down tight, and cover them with butter. 
 937.--GAME OF ALL KINDS. 
 Any dressed game you may have in your larder. Pound well in your
mortar all the tender meat free from skin and bone; add to
it some pounded mace, allspice, cayenne pepper,
salt, and white pepper, a few grains of powdered sugar, an
equal quantity, if you have it of good fat ham. When well pounded rub it
through a wire sieve; if you have no ham use an equal quantity of
butter instead; mix it well up again, and place it tightly in earthen
shapes; cover each jar over with clarified butter or lard; turn
out with warm water; when required either for breakfast or luncheon, or
a second course, dish in or on aspic, garnish with fresh parsley. 
 938.--PIGEONS POTTED. 
 Be careful that they are fresh, clean and season them with salt and
pepper, lay them close together in a small deep pan, for the closer they
are put the less butter they will take. Cover them with butter,
tie them over with a thin paper, and bake them; when cold put them to
dry in pots that will hold two or three in each, and pour butter over
them, using that which was baked as some; mind, the butter should be
thick over them; if they are done for keeping the pigeons would lie
closer and want less butter, if they are boned and put into the pot in
an oval form. They may be stuffed with forcemeat, made with veal
and bacon, &c., and they will eat very well. If a high
seasoning is preferred, add more allspice, and a little
cayenne pepper, before baking. 
 Woodcocks are done the same way.   939.--SMELTS POTTED. 
 Draw out the inside, season with salt, mace pounded and
pepper; lay them in a pan with butter on the top, bake them; when
nearly cold take them out, lay them on a cloth, put them into pots, clear off
the butter from the gravy, clarify, and pour it over them. 
 940.--VEAL POTTED. 
 Take one pound of lean veal, put it into a stewpan, with two ounces
of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper,
salt, sifted mace, a bay-leaf, allspice, cloves,
nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom powder, a small quantity of
each; a little thyme, savory, and a couple of shalots, chopped
fine; stew them ten minutes, then pound them, add a pound of the mellow part of
a boiled tongue beaten to a paste, half a pound of cold fresh
butter; mix all well together, with two eggs, well beaten, then
press the mixture down tight in small pots, cover them with paper, and
put them into a moderate oven, bake twenty minutes, then pour over them
clarified butter.   941.--VENISON POTTED. 
 Put the venison into a pan, and pour red wine over it, and
cover it with as pound of butter; put a paste over the pan, set
it in the oven to bake. When done take the meat out of the gravy,
beat it well with the butter that has risen to the top, add more if
necessary, season with pepper, salt, and mace pounded; put
into pots, set them in the oven for a few minutes, take them out; when cold
cover with clarified butter.   942.--NEAT'S TONGUE. 
 Rub it with one ounce of saltpetre and 
four ounces of brown sugar; let it lie two days, then boil it till it is
quite tender; take off the skin and all the fibrous part of the root,
cut it in thin pieces, and pound it with one pound of clarified butter,
and seasoning to your taste.   943.--TO POT BEEF IN IMITATION
OF VENISON. 
 Put eight or ten pounds of lean beef into a deep dish; pour over it a
pint of red wine, and let it lie in it for two days, seasoning it
well with mace, pepper, salt, and a clove of
garlic; then put it into a closely covered pot along with the wine,
and another glassful if it be not sufficient, and bake it for three hours in a
quick oven; when cold, pound it to a paste, and pot it as above.
Venison may itself be potted in the same manner; but if it be stale, rub
it previously with pyroligneous acid.   944.--HAM CAKE. 
 Take the remains of a ham that may be getting dry, pound it in a
mortar very finely, with all the fat; season it with pepper and
mixed spice; add to it clarified butter sufficient to make it
moist; put it into a mould, and place it in an oven for about half an hour; it
should be prepared the day before it is wanted: put the mould for a few minutes
in warm water in order that it may turn out properly. This may be made
with equal quantities of cold beef pounded separate-ly, and placed in
layers in the mould, or put together in lumps to look like marble.
Tongue may also be substituted for the ham, but it must be mixed
with a larger quantity of butter in the pounding. If not wanted at the
time, it may be potted with veal, and covered with clarified
butter. It will keep well in winter if properly seasoned.   945.--TO POT
MUSHROOMS. 
 Choose large buttons, or those in which the inside is not yet the least
brown; peel and wipe out the fur of the larger ones; and to every two quarts
put half a drachm of pounded mace, two drachms of white pepper,
and six or eight cloves in powder: set them over the fire, shake, and
let the liquor dry up into them. Then put to them two ounces of butter,
and stew them in it till they are fit for eating; pour the butter from
them, and let them become cold. Pack them close into a pot, making the surface
as even as possible; add some butter lukewarm, and then lay a bit of
white paper over them, and pour clarified suet upon it to exclude
the air. 
 The cottar ing of Meat and Fish is an excellent method of
preparing it to be eaten cold, having the advantage of keeping for a long time,
and being at all times ready for breakfast or luncheon.   946.--COLLARED
EEL. 
 Out off the head, then split and take out the bone, but do not
skin the fish; season them with mixed spices, some
parsley and sweet marjoram shred very fine, and a few chopped
sage leaves; sprinkle a little dry isinglass over them; roll them
tightly up in a cloth, bind it well with strong tape. Boil them in good
gravy with a little vinegar, accord-ing to the quantity of
eels collared, a few pepper-corns, a sprig of sweet marjoram,
two or three onions, four bay-leaves, a blade or two of mace, and
a dozen allspice. Boil them until tender; take them up and tie them
without taking out of the cloth, let them stand until cold, then glaze them.
They may be sent whole to table, or cut in slices, and garnished with
jelly and barberries. 
 As a standing dish, and only eaten cold as a relish, it ought always to be
highly seasoned.   947.--TO "CAVEACH" FISH. 
 Bone the tail of a cod, and cut it into  slices, season them with white pepper and
salt, then fry them, and when cold put them into a pickle made of
vinegar boiled with peppercorns, a few cloves,
mace, and bay-leaves; add when cold a teacupful of sweet oil; lay
the fish in a jar with slices of onion between each, and cover
the whole with vinegar. Salmon may be pickled in the same manner.
When served up at table put a sufficient number of pieces in the centre of the
dish, and raise round it a wall of salad.   948.--TO COLLAR BEEF. 
 Make a pickle with six ounces of brown sugar, four ounces of
common salt, and one ounce of saltpetre. Then take a flank of
beef, and leave it in the pickle for ten days or a fortnight,
turning it every day. When taken out, remove the bone and gristle, but
leave on the outer skin; lay it upon the table, with the skin
downwards, and beat the inside well with a rolling-pin or wooden mal-let until
quite tender; that done, score the flesh in rows, down and across, about the
breadth of two fingers; but in doing so take care not to cut the outside
skin. Then fill the scores alternately with slices of the fat of
bacon and corned pork, and sweet herbs of all sorts, chopped,
and seasoned with spice, till you have filled them all; after which,
roll the flank up very tightly, and bind it round with coarse broad tape, wrap
it in a cloth, and boil it gently, but steadily, for four or five hours,
according to the size of the joint. When quite cold, take it out of the cloth,
unbind the tape, and fasten the roll with small skewers. If you wish to improve
its appearance, you may also glaze it, or rub it with yolk of egg, and
brown it with a salamander. 
 Another mode is, to take either the flank or brisket, and prepare it, as
above, for boiling; but stew it with a very little water, and, when
done, cover the meat with a coating of chopped parsley,
thyme, chives, or shalot seasoned with a little cayenne;
then put it under a board, and lay weights upon it for an hour or two, to press
it close together; but before it becomes quite cold, remove the weights, and
roll the piece up in the manner already directed.   949.--AN ECONOMICAL WAY. 
 Take the best part of a shin of beef, of which soup has been made
(for it must be stewed until very tender), and an ox-tail, also well
stewed; cut them into small pieces, season them well, add a glass of
wine and a glass of ketchup, and put it into a stewpan covered
with a part of the liquor in which the ox-tail has been boiled; stew it
for about twenty minutes, and then put it into a mould. It must be very cold
before it is turned out. This is a good way of employing the beef and
heel when soup or jelly is made; a few chopped sweet herbs may be
added, and hard eggs cut into slices, or pickles, such as sliced
cucumbers, intermingled. The flavor may be varied in many ways. 
 950.--TO COLLAR CALF'S HEAD. 
 Scald the skin of a fine head, clean it nicely, and take out
the brains. Boil it tender enough to remove the bones; then have
ready a good quantity of chopped parsley, mace, ground
nutmeg, salt and white pepper, mixed well: season, it high
with these; lay the parsley in a thick layer, then a quantity of thick
slices of fine ham. or a beautifully colored tongue skinned, and
then the yolks of six nice eggs stuck here and there about. Roll
the head quite close, and tie it up as tight as you can. Boil it till
the tape slackens, and then lay a weight upon it (without removing the bandage)
till quite cold. Keep it in a pickle of the liquor, vinegar, and
salt.  
 A cloth must be put under the tape, as for other collars. 
 Ox-cheek may be collared in the same way.   951.--BREAST of
VEAL. 
 Bone it, take off the thick skin and gristle, and beat the
meat with a rolling-pin. Season it with herbs chopped very fine,
mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. Lay some thick slices
of fine ham, or roll into it two or three calves' tongues
boiled first an hour or two, and skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth, and tape
it. Set it over a slow fire to simmer in a small quantity of water, till
it is quite tender: this will take some hours. Lay it on the dresser, with a
board and weight on it, till quite cold. 
 Pigs' and calves' feet boiled, and taken from the
bones, may be put in or round it. The different colors laid in layers
look well when cut; and you may put in yolks of eggs boiled,
beet-root grated ham, and chopped parsley, in different
parts. 
 When it is cold, take off the tape, and pour over it the liquor, which must
be boiled up twice a-week, or it will not keep.   952.--BREAST of
MUTTON. 
 Collared in this way, will also be found very nice. Bone the
meat, and rub it over with yolk of egg, over which grate some
lemon-peel and nutmeg, with a little pepper and
salt; then mince a large spoonful of capers with a couple of
anchovies, shred a handful of parsley and a few sweet
herbs, mixed with crumb of a French roll; strew it over the
mutton, and roll it up tight 5 boil it gently for two hours, and, when
taken up, put it in the same kind of pickle as that of the calf's
head.   953.--TO COLLAR A PIG. 
 Take a fine fat pig of a month or five weeks old, prepared for the
table; cut off the head and split the pig down the back, and
bone it; chop a handful of sage very small, mix it with two
nutmegs and three or four blades of mace beaten fine; add to it a
large handful of salt, and season the pig all over 5 roll it
hard, tie it with tape, sew it in a clean linen cloth, and boil it in
water with a little oatmeal and a good seasoning of salt;
boil till very tender, which will take several hours. Keep it in the cloth in
which it was boiled until quite cold. Then take the cloth from the pig,
and let it lie for eight days in a marinade. Eat it with mustard,
sugar, and vinegar.   954.--TO COLLAR PIG'S HEAD. 
 Scour the head and ears nicely; take off the hair and snout,
and take out the eyes and the brains 5 lay it in water one night:
then drain, salt it extremely well with common salt and
saltpetre, and let it lie five days. Boil it enough to take out the
bones 5 then lay it on a dresser, turning the thick end of one side of
the head towards the thin end of the other, to make the roll of equal
size; sprinkle it well with salt and white pepper, and roll it
with the ears; and, if you approve, put the pig's feet round the
outside when boned, or the thin parts of two cow-heels. Put it into a
cloth, bind with a broad tape, and boil it till quite tender; then put a good
weight upon it, and do not take off the covering till cold. 
 If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer, let the
proportion of saltpetre be greater, and put in also some pieces of
lean pork; and then cover it with cow-heel to look like the
horn. 
 This may be kept either in or out of pickle of salt and water boiled,
with vinegar 5 and is a very convenient thing to have in the house. 
 If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either with or without
butter.    955.--A MARINADE FOR COLLARED
MEATS. 
 Make thin water-gruel of oatmeal; season it well with
salt; add half a pint of white wine and half a spoonful of
white pepper; boil it all together for half an hour; allow it to become
cold before the collar is put into it.   956.--TO SALT OR CORN A
BOUND OF BEEF. 
 Rub into it a pound and a half of salt, dried before the fire; then
put it into a salting-pan, set it in a cool place, and the brine that
melts should be poured on the meat every day. It may remain in
salt from three to ten days.   957.--BEEF PICKLE. 
 Five quarts white salt, one of coarse salt, one pound brown
sugar, fourteen quarts soft water; keep it simmering till it comes
to a boil; then add four ounces saltpetre, and give it a boil. Pack your
"beef in a close vessel, and when the pickle is cold, pour it
over it.   958.--TO PICKLE MEAT. 
 To four gallons water put six pounds salt; boil and skim well,
and let stand till cold; then put it into the vessel for your meat; boil
the pickle over in two months, adding one pound salt, and skim
well; keep a weight on the meat to keep it under the pickle; if
any part should be bloody, sprinkle salt on it, and let it stand all
night; then scrape and wipe it before it goes into the pickle. 
 959.--TEAL POTTED. 
 Pound the remains of a cold fillet with mace, peppercorns, two
or three cloves, and a little salt, and press it well down into
pots, then cover with clarified butter. Alternate layers of pounded
ham and veal, or both mixed, form a fine compound for the
luncheon or breakfasttable.   960.--HERRINGS, TO PICKLE. 
 Let the fish be well cleaned and gutted, but not opened; take
salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg, pound and mix these
spices well, then rub a pan with an onion, strew some of the
spices over the bottom, and put as many fish as will lie flat on
the bottom, then put a layer of sliced onions, and then fish, and
so on alternately till the pan is filled; strew the pounded spice
between each layer, pour over the best vinegar so as to cover the whole,
tie a brown paper over the pan, and bake till the bones are
soft. 
 Sprats and mackerel are likewise done in this way. 
 The heads and tails must be cut off.   961.--SOYER'S SIMPLIFIED WAY
OF MAKING THE SAVORY JELLY CALLED ASPIC. 
 Put a galantine in a stewpan with two onions, a carrot, half a
head of celery, two cloves, a blade of mace, a good bunch
of parsley, a little thyme, and bay-leaves, a knuckle of
veal, the bones of a turkey, two calf's feet, two
ounces of salt: add sufficient water to cover the whole 5 and set
the stewpan upon the fire, until upon the point of boiling; then draw it to the
corner; skim, and let simmer for three hours; then take it from the fire,
leaving it in the stock until nearly cold; then take it out; remove the
string from the napkin, and roll the galantine up tighter, tying the napkin
again at each end only; then place it upon a dish; the breast part
upwards; set another dish upon it, on which place a fourteen pounds' weight,
which will press and cause it to cut firm; when quite cold, it is ready to
serve; having removed the napkin, and the string with which it was sewed; the
stock, however, should be clarified as directed in the next receipt, to
make a savory jelly, which, when cold and firm, is cut in croutons and
chopped; with some also the galantine should be tastefully garnished.  
 Although at first I had some difficulty with this receipt, I can now see the
variety to which it leads, as the same process answers for fowls, green
geese, ducklings, pheasants, grouse, partridges, &c.,
using game with the veal or pork for the interior, and
stewing them according to their size; the bones of game being stewed
with the stock, will give the flavor to the savory jelly. 
 962.--TO CLARIFY MEAT JELLY. 
 Having passed the stock (made as in the last) through the sieve into
a basin, leave it until quite cold; then take off all the fat very
carefully; ascertain if sufficiently, or too stiff, by putting a small piece
upon ice; savory jelly requires to be rather stiffer than sweet; if too
stiff, add a little more broth; if the contrary, the stock must
be reduced upon the fire until of the proper consistency. When the stock
is boiling, and you are perfectly assured of its strength, have the white of
four eggs with their shells in a basin, with half a pint of water,
two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar, and a glass of
sherry; whisk all together; then whisk the stock quickly a few
seconds, and pour in the other ingredients while whisking; continue whisking a
few minutes until again upon the point, but not boiling; then take it from the
fire, and taste if palatable; place a cover upon the stewpan, which stand a
little distance from the fire, putting a few red-hot cinders upon the lid for
five minutes; tie a napkin by the four corners upon a jelly-stand, through
which pass the jelly, having a basin beneath to catch it; pour the first
that runs through again into the napkin until it runs quite clear 5 when all
through, pour it in a plain mould or sauté-pan, which place upon ice
until the jelly is quite firm; then dip the bottom of the mould in
hot water; turn the jelly out upon a cloth, and cut it into
whatever shapes you please, to garnish and ornament any cold savory
dish; the jelly when warm, might be divided, one part kept white,
and the other colored with a little brown gravy or coloring, thus
enabling you to variegate in garnishing. 
 Should the jelly be required to ornament tongues, hams,
pies, salads, or any article, when no galantine is made; then to make the
stock, cut the veal into small pieces, and split the
calf's foot in two; put a quarter of a pound of butter in
a convenient-sized stewpan, with the veal, foot, a small piece of
lean ham, and the other ingredients as directed for galantine; pour in
half a pint of water; put on the lid, and stand it upon the fire until
the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add a
gallon of water; let simmer three hours, keeping it well skimmed; pass
and clarify as above. 
 The knuckle of veal and foot may be served hot with a little
parsley and but-ter, for a dinner previous to your party, with a little
fried bacon separately 5 but for my own part I prefer them plain as they
leave the stewpan.   963.--SOYER'S COLD HAM. 
 Procure a very nice but small ham of about nine pounds in weight,
which soak about ten hours in cold water, and simmer three hours in
plenty of water 5 when done, take out and let remain until cold; then
cut off the skin as thinly as possible, but without leaving the marks of
it; let a piece remain upon the knuckle about two inches and a half in breadth,
which either festoon or vandyke; carve the fat neatly to form a shell,
if you can, and glaze it over lightly; serve with a paper frill upon the
knuckle, and garnish with savory jelly, or, if plain, with a few bunches
of fresh green parsley. A handful of fresh hay put in the water
when boiling, is an improvement.    POULTRY. 
 Always have good and fat poultry where possible; in the country you
may command it. About three weeks before you want to use them, six or twelve
fowls, according to your consumption, should be put into the coop, and
as you kill one or more replace them to keep up the stock; for the first
week feed them alternate days with boiled rice and soaked bread
and milk: the remainder of the time mix Indian meal with the
skim-mings of your stockpot and a spoonful of moist sugar. The windows
of your poultry house must be darkened. 
 Fowls should be carefully drawn, so that the gall bladder is
uninjured, and this should only be done through the vent. 
 Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A capon will take five-and-thirty
minutes; smaller fowls a less time in proportion. A turkey of
fourteen pounds will take two hours; the time will increase or decrease with
the weight. The same rule applies to geese: a large one will take an
hour and a half; chickens take half an hour, pigeons ten minutes
less. It must be understood that the adherence to the time will depend on the
state of the fire, &c.; a slow fire will make a longer time necessary, and
at the same time spoil the poultry. The French adopt the following method to
make old poultry eat tender:--Let the bird soak in cold water for
twenty-four hours, with a handful or two of wood-ashes; pick off the
feathers, and let it hang for another twenty-four hours; truss it, and let it
boil for a quarter of an hour in a little veal-broth; take it out,
lard, and roast it; when nearly done, baste it with very hot butter. By
observing these directions, you will impart to an old bird all the delicate
flavor of a young chicken.   964.--TO BONE BIRDS. 
 Begin to bone any birds by first taking out the breast bone,
when you will have sufficient space to remove the back with a sharp knife and
then the leg bones; the skin must not be broken, but the
meat of the legs must be pushed in-wards.   965.--TURKEY
WITH SAUSAGE MEAT. 
 At the messes of European regiments in India, it is no uncommon thing to
bone a turkey and a fowl, and put one inside the other,
filling the interstices with sausage-meat, a small pig being
killed for the purpose. A turkey thus prepared will take a long time
roasting, and must be placed at a great distance from the fire at first. When
carved the slices should be cut quite through; and epicures aver that it is one
of the finest dishes that come to table.   966.--TURKEY ROAST. 
 It is stuffed with either sausage meat or fillet of veal
stuffing, or crumbs of bread and veal. While roasting, a
piece of paper should be placed over the part stuffed, as being bulky it
will catch, the fire and become scorched; but keep the heat well to the
breast, in order that it may be as well done as the rest of the bird.
Baste well, and froth it up. Serve with gravy in the dish, and bread
sauce in a tureen. To the sausage meat, if used, add a few
bread-crumbs and a beaten egg. Turkey is sometimes stuffed
with truffles; they are prepared thus: they must be peeled, and chopped,
and pounded in a mortar, in quantities of a pound and a half will be found
sufficient: rasp the same weight of fat of bacon, and mix it with the
truffles. Stuff the tur-key with it; this stuffing is usually
placed in the turkey two days previous to cooking: it is supposed to
impart a flavor to the flesh of the fowl. Cut thin  slices of fat bacon and place over the breast
of the turkey. Secure it with half a sheet of clean white paper,
and roast. Chestnuts dressed in the same fashion are found an excellent
substitute for truffles. Two hours will roast it. If you wish to make
plain stuffing, pound a cracker, or crumble some bread
very fine, chop some raw salt pork very fine, or use butter; sift
some sage, (and summer-savory, or sweet mar-joram, if you have
them in the house, and fancy them), and mould them all together, season with a
little pepper. An egg worked in makes the stuffing cut
Letter.   967.--TURKEY BOILED. 
 A hen bird is considered the best. It may be stuffed with
truffles, chestnuts, or sausage meat. Boil it in a clean
floured cloth 5 throw some salt into the water in which it
is boiled. Cover close, and simmer for two hours; remove the scum frequently.
White sauce, or pars-ley and butter; the latter is now
scarcely ever brought to table.   968.--BOILED TURKEY. 
 Fill the body with oysters, and let it boil by steam without any
water. When sufficiently done, take it up, strain the gravy that
will be found in the pan, and which, when cold, will be a fine jelly;
thicken it with a little flour and butter, add the liquor of the
oysters intended fur sauce, also stewed, and warm the
oysters up in it; whiten it with a little boiled cream, and pour
it over the turkey.   969.--TURKEY WITH SAUSAGE MEAT AND
TONGUE. 
 Bone the turkey, then fill the inside with sausage
meat, with or without tongue: if with tongue the
tongue should be boiled the day before; cut off the root and tip to the
length of the turkey; if you have a fowl to spare, wrap the
tongue in this after it is boned, and place it in the middle of the
turkey surrounded with sausage meat; introduce truffles if
you like; if roasted, a slow fire, and it will take a long time to roast
through; if for boiling, cover it with fat bacon and slices of lemon
tied in a cloth, pour whatever sauce you propose over the
turkey.   970.--TURKEY HASHED. 
 Cut up the remains of a roasted turkey, put it into a stewpan with
half a gill of sherry wine, shalots, truffles, mushrooms,
chopped parsley, salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of cullis,
and a little stock; boil half an hour, and reduce to a thick
sauce. When ready add a pound of anchovies, and a squeeze of
lemon. Skim the sauce free from fat, and serve
altogether.   971.--FORCED TURKEY OR FOWL. 
 Take all the bones from the turkey, fill it in again with
either good sausage meat or veal forcemeat, with or without
truffles as may be required, braise it in a cloth keeping it a good
shape; when done glaze the breast a good color 5 use silver skewers to
ornament with, and any of the sauces named or a fricandeau sauce under
it.    French Cooks' Knife.  An illustration of large knife.     972.--TURKEY POULT 
 Should be roasted without stuffing; it will be done with a clear fire
in twenty minutes. Serve with bread or gravy sauce. 
 973.--TURKEY WITH FLAT SAUSAGE CAKE. 
 Roast as before; fry thirty oval flat sausages, the same quantity of
the same sized pieces of bacon, a quarter of an  inch thick; make a border of mashed potatoes about the
size of a finger, one inch inside the edge of the dish, dress your
sausages and bacon on it as a crown alternately, put your
turkey in the middle, and gravy over, or glaze, if at hand. Plain
boiled tongue may, of course, be served with the turkey, or
separate on a dish of greens. If any remains of tongue from a previous
day, it may be served instead of the sausages, cut the same shape as
sausages, and warmed in a pan; if so, put a nice green sprout
between each piece. Bread sauce is generally served with this dish. 
 974.--SOYER'S BOILED BRAISED TURKEY. 
 Truss it thus: cut the neck, leaving the skin on; cut the
legs off; then run the middle finger into the inside, raise the
skin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the
turkey, put the liver and gizzard in the pinions, turn the
small end of the pinions on the back, run a packing needle with string through
the joint of the wing and middle joint of the leg, and through
the body, and out at the opposite leg and wing, bring it round
and tie it on the back, then run the needle and string through the ends of the
legs or drumstick, press it through the back, and tie strongly; it is
then ready. When the turkey is trussed, then stuff it; and if intended
to have oyster sauce with it, chop about two dozen of oysters
into small dice and mix them with the stuffing, and place inside the
breast. Then rub the breast with half a lemon, and put it
into a two-gallon pan, and cover it with cold water, to which are added
two ounces of butter, one ounce of salt, four onions, a
stick of celery, one carrot, two turnips sliced, a large
bouquet of parsley, two bay leaves, two sprigs of thyme;
set it on the fire, when beginning to boil skim it, let it simmer two hours or
more if large; try the breast with a needle, if it goes in and out
easily it is done; take it out and set it on a dish to drain, remove the
string, serve on a fresh dish with a pint of good thick oyster sauce
over it. By omitting the oysters in stuffing, you may serve the
turkey with celery sauce, tomato, or mushroom, or
good parsley and butter; and, as an accompaniment, a piece of
about two pounds of nice streaked bacon, which has been boiled with the
turkey, and from which you have removed the skin, and serve on
some greens, or Brussels sprouts, over which you have thrown a little
salt, pepper, and two ounces of oiled butter. You see,
dear ----, that this dish can be varied without much expense and trouble;
observe, that this way, the broth is good for soup the same day, by the
addition of two pounds of veal cut in small pieces, a quarter of a pound
of lean bacon, one onion, one blade of mace, a
leek, a wineglass of water; put it into a separate stewpan, stew
on fire till forming a white glaze, then add it to the turkey,
when on the point of boiling; when done, skim off all fat, pass it
through a tammy or cloth; you may use it for any clear soup by adding a little
brown gravy or coloring, and also for any kind of puree; or, by reducing
it a little, make white or brown sauce, adding to the last the
proper color. 
 I must observe, that this will be almost inpracticable when you have a
party; the only plan would be to get the turkey done one hour before you
require it, keeping it hot with its breast in some of the stock;
but, as the broth will keep well in small quantities, it can be
reserv-ed for the next day. That is my plan of boiling, but the following is my
new way of giving the flavor of vegetables to all poultry, which is a decided
improvement. The aroma from the bird when the cover is removed is quite
inviting, and the ap-pearance of it, which is as white as alabaster, and
cuts also full of juice: I call it.  
 975.--ROAST BRAISED TURKEY (Soyer.) 
 Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, one turnip, cut
them in thin slices, also a little celery, a few sprigs of
parsley, two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper on the table,
spread your vegetables, and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of
oil; have your turkey, or poularde, trussed the same as for
boiling; cut a few slices of lemon, which you place on the breast
to keep it white, then cover with thin slices of bacon, and place
the back of the bird on the vegetables; tie the paper round with string,
then pass the spit and set it before the fire; pour plenty of fat over
to moisten the paper and prevent it from burning, roast three hours at a
pretty good distance from the fire: capons will take two hours,
pou-lardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, and chickens half
an hour. This way it may be served with almost any sauce or garniture,
as stewed peas, oyster sauce, jardiniere, stewed celery,
cauliflower, stewed cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, which
should be turned in the shape of a pear: these should be dished on a
border of mashed potatoes; that is, an artichoke and a Brussels
sprout alternately, or a small piece of white cauliflower, and a
small bunch of green asparagus, or stewed peas, or stewed
celery, of two inches long, never more; or any other vegetable, according
to season, which taste or fancy may dictate. When I want to serve them with
brown garniture or sauce, I remove the paper and vegetables
twenty minutes before it is done, and give it a light golden color, then I
serve it with either a ragout financier, or mushroom, or English
truffle. I also often stuff it thus: I put two pounds of sausage
meat in a basin with a little grated nutmeg; I then take two
table-spoonfuls of chopped onions, put them in a saute-pan with a little
butter, and let them do for two minutes, which add to the meat,
also two eggs well beaten up, and a quarter of a pint of white
sauce, if at hand, and fifteen fine roasted chesnuts; add this to the
stuffing, and fill the bird as usual, not too full at the breast;
roast as above, giving half an hour longer for the forcemeat; put a
quart of demiglaze and a glass of sherry in a stewpan, reduce it to a
pint and a half, add in it fifty button onions previously stewed, and
twenty-five roasted chesnuts; sauce under.   976.--TURKEY, IF
OLD. 
 The French stew it exactly like the ribs of beef, Soyer says:--Put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, such as
will conveniently hold it; cut one pound of lean bacon in ten or twelve
pieces, put a few minutes in the pan on the fire; then add your turkey
trussed as for boiling, breast downwards; set it on a moderate fire for
one hour, and until it is a nice color; add two table-spoonfuls of
flour, and stir well round until it forms a roux; then add two quarts of
water or broth; when you have it on the point of boiling, add
fifty pieces of carrot the size of walnuts, the like of
turnip, ten button onions, a good bouquet of sprigs of
thyme, two bayleaves, and ten of parsley, a small glass of
rum, a clove, a piece of garlic, and let it stew gently
for four hours. If you use water, season in proportion. Take the
turkey out, and put the vegetables and sauce in a smaller
stewpan, which ought to be nearly full; let it simmer on the corner of the
fire, so that the fat rises and may be removed, and reduce it to a
demiglaze; dish up the turkey, and serve with the sauce over it;
small new potatoes, about twenty, when in season, may be added to the
sauce, or roasted chesnuts. The remains are excellent when cold, or will
warm again with the addition of a little broth or water.    FOWLS. 
 FOWLS, in a general sense, mean all kinds of poultry; but, in a
limited view, one species of bird. We distinguish this kind in cookery, as the
chicken, capon, pullet, cock, and hen. Chickens
from their age cannot be otherwise than tender. Capons should have a
fat vein under the wing; thick belly and rump; comb short
and pale; spurs short and blunt, and legs smooth. Pullets are best in
the spring, just before they begin to lay. Cocks should have their spurs short,
legs smooth, and comb short, smooth, and a bright color. Hens,
legs and comb smooth, and full breast. Black legs are best
for roasting and entrees, and white for boiling. 
 For preparing them for table, M. Soyer invented a plan:--by cutting the
sinews of the bird, it not only appears fuller and plumper when cooked, as the
heat is liable to contract the sinews, but it also af- fords facility for
carving when the sinews are divided; they are trussed in the usual way, only
using strings instead of skewers.   977.--TURKEY PULLED AND GRILLED 
 Is a mode of preparing the remains of cold turkey, by mincing the
white meat and fricasseeing it with white sauce; the legs
being scored, peppered, and salted, broiled, and sent up over the mince.  
 Or devilled, as thus:--On the rump, gizzard, and a drumstick,
put salt, pepper, and cayenne. Let them be broiled, and
brought to table as hot as possible; cut them in small pieces; pour over them a
ladle of mustard, ditto of melted butter, a spoonful of soy,
ditto of lemon-juice, and some of the gravy out of the dish;
mix quickly and hand round. It forms an admirable relish; fowls may be
treated in the same manner.   978.--CAPON, OR POULARDE.  
 Should be stuffed and roasted, or otherwise dressed, in precisely the same
man-ner as turkey. They are the male and female of the common
fowl, but, when caponed, grow nearly to the size of tur-keys, and are
very rarely, if ever, boiled.   979.--A LA PROVENÇAL. 
 Half roast the fowl; cut it in pieces; take a dozen onions;
cut them in rings; add a little parsley chopped. Place them in a
stewpan, laying a bed of onions and parsley, then fowl,
till the whole are used; add a glass of oil or cream, with one or
two bay leaves and salt, let them simmer slowly; dish the
fowl; put the onions in the middle; add a little sauce,
and send it to table.   980.--POELEE TO BOIL FOWLS IN. 
 Take two pounds of veal and two pounds of bacon; cut both into
large dice; cut also two large carrots and two onions into dice;
put them, with a pound of butter, into a stewpan, the juice of four
lemons, a little thyme or sweet fennel, and two
laurel-leaves bruised; season it with salt and pepper; put them
on a good fire; add a spoonful of boiling broth, and boil it. 
 981.--FOWLS, FORCED. 
 Cut a large fowl down the back; re-move the skin from the
whole of the body very carefully; cut the flesh from the bones, and chop
it up finely with half a pint of oysters, and an ounce of beef
marrow; then season with pepper and salt. Add sufficient
cream to mix it well; lay the meat on the bones; draw the
skin over, and sew up the back. Lay thin slices of bacon on the
breast; tie them on in diamonds, and roast it an hour by a moderate
fire. Pour a good brown gravy sauce into the dish. Remove the
bacon from the fowl, and then place the fowl in the dish.
Garnish with oysters or mushrooms, and serve hot.    982.--ROAST FOWLS. 
 If nicely trussed, make a stuffing with butter and some
pepper, dry up the butter with bread-crumbs, baste it
well, and flour and salt before you take it from the fire. If
approved of, stuff the fowl with some good sausage-meat,
truffles, or chestnuts, roast it twenty minutes, unless a very
fine one, and then it will take three quarters of an hour; serve with bread
sauce, or parsley and butter; egg sauce is sometimes
sent to table with it. 
 If a small lump of salt butter, well covered with black
pepper, is placed within the fowl previous to roasting, it will be
found to improve the fowl by removing the dryness which is met within
the back and side bones.   983.--BOILED FOWLS.  
 Flour a white cloth, and put the fowls in cold
water; let them simmer three quarters of an hour serve with parsley
and butter, or oyster or celery sauce. The fowls
may be covered with a white sauce if sent cold to table, garnished with
colored calf's-foot jelly of the hue of beet-root. 
 
 Boiled with Oysters. --Take a young
fowl, fill the inside with oysters, put it into a jar, and plunge
the jar in a kettle or saucepan of water. Boil it for an hour and a
half. There will be a quantity of gravy from the juices of the
fowl and oysters in the jar; make it into a white sauce,
with the addition of egg, cream, or a little flour and
butter; add oysters to it, or serve it up plain with the
fowl. The gravy that comes from a fowl dressed in this
manner will be a stiff jelly the next day; the fowl will be very
white and tender, and of an exceedingly fine flavor--advantages not
attainable in ordinary boiling--while the dish loses nothing of its delicacy
and simplicity.   984.--TO BRAISE A FOWL. 
 Bone the breast, and fill it with forcemeat. Lay the
bones, and any other poultry trimmings, into a stewpan, and the
fowl on them. Put to them a few onions, a fagot of herbs,
three blades of mace, a pint of stock, and a glass or two of
sherry. Cover the fowl with slices of bacon, and then with
white paper, cover the whole close, and put it on a slow stove for one
hour. Then take it up, strain the braise, and skim off the fat
carefully; set it on to boil very quickly to a glaze, and put it over the
fowl with a brush. Serve with a brown fricassee of mushrooms.
Before glazing, put the fowl into an oven for a few minutes, to give a
little color. 
 
 With Rice. --The fowl should be stewed
very slowly in some clear veal or mutton broth, well skimmed, and
seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and an onion.
About half an hour before it is ready add a gill of rice, well washed
and soaked; simmer until tender, then strain the rice from the
broth, and lay it on a sieve before the fire to swell; then dish the
fowl with the rice round it. 
 White sauce is the most fashionable accompaniment, the old method of
dishing with parsley and butter being on the decline; but as
parsley still maintains its ground with many people, it is advisable to
boil a sufficient quantity: press and chop it, garnishing the dish with small
mounds thus prepared, which may be mixed at table with the white sauce
by the guests who like the flavor of parsley. Liver-sauce is
sometimes served with boiled fowls, but celery or
oyster-sauce is preferable.   985.--FOWL HASHED. 
 This receipt will serve for any but the very larger species of poultry or
game; joint them and cut a cutlet from each side of the
breast. If it has not been eaten when previously dressed, break the
bones of the body, and put all into a 
stewpan with a pint of water, a small faggot of sweet herbs, one
carrot sliced, and an onion; let it stew an hour and three
quarters, or two hours, skim the fat from the gravy as it rises,
strain it, skim again, and pour it into another stewpan; thicken with a little
butter and flour, flavor with Harvey's sauce, or any
sauce applicable to such a dish, a little pepper and salt,
and ground nutmeg, or mace for seasoning; add the
fowl, and heat it thoroughly through without permitting the hash to come
to a boil. Sippets of toasted or fried bread cut in dice surround the
dish, in the centre of which the fowl is handsomely laid. 
 986.--FRIED FOWL. 
 When you have cut the pieces as before, put them into a basin with a little
salt and pepper, a spoonful of oil, and two of
vinegar, and a little chopped eschalot; stir them well in it, and
let remain for half an hour; have ready a quantity of batter, and take a fork
and dip each piece one after the other into it, and then let it drop into the
frying-pan, in which is sufficient hot fat to cover them; fry a nice
color, and serve in the form of a pyramid, with fried parsley over, or
any sauce you like under.   987.--FOWL PILLAU. 
 Put one pound of rice into a frying-pan with two ounces of
butter, which keep moving over a slow fire, until the rice is
lightly browned; then have ready a fowl trussed as for boiling, "which
put into a stewpan, with five pints of good broth; pound in a mortar
about forty cardamom seeds with the husks, half an ounce of
coriander seeds, and sufficient cloves, allspice,
mace, cinnamon, and peppercorns, to make two ounces in the
aggregate; which tie up tightly in a cloth, and put into the stewpan with the
fowl; let it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly done; then add
the rice, which let stew until quite tender and almost dry; have ready
four onions, which cut into slices the thickness of half crown pieces;
sprinkle over with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a nice
brown color; have also six thin slices of bacon, curled and grilled, and
two eggs boiled hard; lay the fowl upon your dish, which
cover over with the rice, forming a pyramid; garnish with the
bacon, fried onions, and the hard-boiled eggs cut into
quarters and serve very hot.   988.--TO BROIL A FOWL. 
 Split the fowl down the back 5 season it very well with
pepper, and put it on the gridiron with the inner part next the fire,
which must be very clear. Hold the gridiron at a considerable distance from the
fire, and allow the fowl to remain until it is nearly half done; then
turn it, taking great care that it does not burn. Broil it of a fine brown, and
serve it up with stewed mushrooms, or a sauce with pickled
mushrooms. A duck may be broiled in the same way. If the fowl
is very large, half roast it; then cut it into four quarters and finish it on
the gridiron.   989.--FRICASSEE OF FOWL. 
 Put the fowl into a jar, with sliced onion, parsley,
salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; let it remain
in a kettle of water on the fire until three parts done; then skim and
strain the liquor, and after draining, wipe the fowl dry. Put it into a
stewpan, with a piece of butter and a slice or two of ham; throw
in a little flour, and shake it until it is of a good color. Moisten
with the liquor taken out of the jar, adding parsley, young
onions, a bay leaf, a clove, sorrel, and
mushrooms cut into pieces; skim it, and let it stew until done; then
take out the herbs, and thicken the sauce with a little
cream, but  do not let it boil: finish
with a little lemon-juice, and pour the sauce over all. 
 
 or: --Rather more than half-boil in a small quantity
of water: let the fowl cool; then cut up, and put to simmer in a
little gravy made of the liquor it is boiled in, and a bit of
veal or mutton, onion, mace, and
lemon-peel, some white pepper, and a bunch of sweet
herbs. When quite tender, keep it hot while you thicken the sauce in
the following manner: strain it off, and put it back into the saucepan with a
little salt, a scrape of nutmeg and a bit of flour and
butter; give it one boil; and when you are going to serve, beat up the
yolk of an egg, and half a pint of cream, and stir them over the
fire, but do not let them boil.   990.--POELE. (French.) 
 Poele is almost the same operation as braising; the only difference is, that
what is poele must be underdone, and a braise must be done through. 
 As the poele has no translation, it retains its name; it is indispensable in
fine cookery, and is made as follows:-- 
 Take one pound of beef suet, one pound of very fresh butter,
and one pound of very fat bacon; cut the suet and the
bacon into very large dice; put them into a stewpan with two pounds of
veal cut in the same manner, fried till the veal becomes very
white, and then moisten with about three pints of clear boiling
water, a handful of salt, one bay leaf, a few sprigs of
thyme, one onion stuck with three cloves, and a great
bundle of parsley and green onions: let the whole boil gently
till the onion is done; then drain it through a hair sieve, and use it
for any thing that may want pole. The use of pole is to make every thing
boiled in it very white and tasty: in the winter it keeps for a week,
and is very useful in the larder, particularly if you do not put in any of the
fleshy part of the bacon; otherwise the meat that you boil in it
will turn quite red, on account of the saltpetre used in curing the
bacon.   991.--RISSOLES. 
 Pick from the bones and skin any kind of cold poultry; weigh
it, and add one-third of grated bread-crumbs, a little cold melted
butter, a small onion, previously boiled and finely minced,
pepper, salt, and the yolks of two eggs, to bind it
together. Roll out, thin, some trimmings of puff-paste; cut it in two
inch square pieces; put in the middle of each a teaspoonful of the mince; fold
the paste over it, and shape it with a cutter. Egg the shapes;
dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in lard; serve dry;
garnish with fried parsley, and take care that the edges be perfectly
closed. 
 
 or: --Pound any kind of cold meat; thicken a
little good gravy with cream or butter; season the
meat, and mix it with the sauce, until it is well moistened; then
roll out some paste into oval pieces; lay a large table-spoonful of the
meat on one end; double it over; press the edges together, and
scallop them; brush the paste over with yolk of egg;
sprinkle vermicelli upon it, and fry them.   991.--PUREE DE VOLAILLE. 
 Mince the white part of a cold fowl or turkey very
finely; then pound it in a mortar: put in two or three spoonfuls of white
sauce, and pass it through a sieve, adding a little salt and
white pepper, and warm the whole. It may be served up with the
legs grilled. It should not be too thin, but can be made the proper
con-sistence by a greater or smaller quantity of white sauce or
cream. Garnish with fried bread, or paste cut in shapes.
It may also be served up in a casserolle, or wall of rice and mashed
potatoes, or with poached eggs.  
 993.--BOILED CHICKENS. 
 Chickens should be plump, or they form a meagre dish; they should
receive much attention in the boiling; they re-quire less time than a
fowl, and are sent to table with white sauce, and garnished with
tufts of white broccoli.   994.--CHICKENS PULLED.  
 Remove the skin carefully from a cold chicken, then pull the
flesh from the bones, preserving it as whole as you can. Flour
them well, fry them a nice brown in fresh butter; draw them, and stew in
a good gravy well seasoned; thicken a short time before serving with
flour and butter, and add the juice of half a
lemon.   995.--CURRIED CHICKENS. 
 Lay the pieces of a dressed chicken into a stewpan with a sliced
onion fried brown, a clove of garlic, and some good white
gravy: simmer till the chicken is tender, add a spoonful of curry
powder, flour rubbed smooth with a lump of but-ter; a quarter of a
pint of cream, with a little salt, may be added twenty minutes
before serving: squeeze a little lemon into it, and put an edging of
rice round the dish.   996.--TO BRAISE CHICKENS.  
 Bone the chickens, stuff them with forcemeat, place in
the stewpan the bones and trimmings: lay the chickens upon them
with a braise of sweet herbs, onions, mace whole, some
thin slices of bacon, about three parts of a pint of stock, or,
if that is not handy, water, two glasses of sherry: the
bacon should be added last. Cover close, and stew for two hours. Then
take out the chickens, strain the braise, remove the fat, and
boil the braise rapidly to a glaze, paint it over the chickens with a
brush while the braise is being boiled 5 brown the chickens before the
fire; it adds to their appearance. When glazed, fowls may be braised in
the same manner.   997.--FRIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAR. 
 The Indian receipts for cooking chicken are very numerous; we
select the fol-lowing. Cut up the fowl as for a stew, removing the
joints carefully and carving the body into handsome shapes; remove all moisture
with a clean dry cloth, and powder every part with curry; fry it in
fresh butter, to which half a teaspoonful of curry has been
added, a pale brown; cut into small pieces two or three onions, and fry
in clear butter, sufficient to keep the pan from burning; but not more
than should be absorbed by the onion after some time frying. It is as
well here to say, that as onions are frequently used in the curried
poultry by the Indian cooks, they employ the following method, When to
be cut small, they slice the onions and then separate them into rings,
cutting these rings into the sizes they may require, which, if a little more
labor, yet presents a better appearance; when they are fried sufficiently to
have absorb-ed the grease in the pan without in any degree having been
burned, spread them over the chicken and serve; a whole lemon should
be sent to table with them.   998.--PIGEONS ROASTED. 
 Veal stuffing for pigeons improves the flavor; they must be
fresh and well cleaned; butter and parsley may be served with
them, but parsley alone as a stuffing, though frequently used, is
by no means so palatable as the veal stuffing, or one made with
veal, the fat of bacon and the crumb of bread soaked in
milk and well seasoned. Let your pigeons be picked clean and
washed, then stuff the whole inside of the pigeon with fine
stuffing. 
 
 To Broil. --Split the backs, season them highly, lay
them over a clear brisk fire; serve with mushroom sauce.    
 To Cook as Woodcocks. --Toast some
bread as for woodcocks, butter it, and drop a few drops of
essence of anchovies on the butter, spread it all over the
toast, then put the toast under the pi-geons while roasting. 
 
 To Stew. --Take a white cabbage, cut it as for
pickling, rinse it in clear cold water, drain it well, put it into a
sauce-pan with equal quantities of milk and water, boil
it, strain off the milk, and take a portion of the cabbage and
lay it in a stewpan; soak the pigeons for half an hour in cold
milk and water, season them well with salt and pepper,
adding a little cayenne; place them in the stew-pan with the
cabbage, cover them over with what remains, add some white broth,
stew slowly until the pigeons are tender, thicken with a little
cream, flour, and butter; let it boil, and serve up the
pigeon with a pur6e of the cabbage. Lard and braise them
in the same man-ner as chickens.   999.--COMPOTE OF PIGEONS. 
 Blanch four pigeons, then stuff them, place them in a stewpan, put in
an on-ion, a slice of lemon, and a small handful of mushrooms;
lay over them slices of fat bacon, add half a pint of good gravy,
and stew gently until the pigeons are tender; take them out of the
gravy and keep them hot, strain off the gravy, skim it clear,
then thicken with half a spoon-ful of flour, and a lump of
butter, the size of a small walnut; season with salt,
pepper, and a little cayenne; a few force-meat balls
may be added at pleasure; pour half into the dish with the pigeons, and
serve the remainder in a tureen.   1000.--PIGEONS IN JELLY. 
 Make some jelly of calf's fool or if you have the liquor in which a
knuckle of veal has been boiled, it will answer the same purpose; place
it in a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace,
white pepper, a slice of lean bacon, some lemon-peel,
and the pigeons, which, being trussed and their necks propped up
to make them appear natural, season to your palate. Bake them; when they are
done remove them from the liquor, but keep them covered close, that their color
may be preserved. Remove the fat, boll the whites of a couple of
eggs with the jelly to clear it, and strain it; this is usually
done by dipping a cloth into boiling water, and straining it through it,
as it prevents any thing like scum or dirt sweeping through the strainer. Put
the jelly rough over and round the pigeons. 
 1001.--PIGEONS OR ANT BIRD IN ASPIC JELLY. 
 Get three pigeons, take out the bones, leaving on the
neck and head; fill the birds with some forcemeat, making
them the shape of the bird, cover them with fat bacon, put them on a
dish, place them in the oven until done, take them out to get cold, have ready
some very light colored aspic jelly; either chop your jelly round
them on the dish or in a mould, if in a mould place the breast
downwards, let the jelly be quite cold and beginning to set before you
pour it in; but if you intend to ornament your mould, do it with green, red,
and white devices, with what may then be in season 5 radishes,
whites of hard eggs, cucumbers, French beans,
truffles, and any other eatable and wholesome thing: never use any thing
that is injurious to health; set it to get stiff, turn out with warm
water.   1002.--LARKS OR SMALL BIRDS. 
 Be very particular in roasting; melt a little butter, add to it a
yolk of egg, and with your paste-brush egg all over them,
and then bread-crumb them; while roasting frequently baste them and
flour them, and before you take them up flour  366 and salt them; send them up with some brown
bread-crumbs.   1003.--GUINEA FOWLS. 
 These birds must be very young, for, being naturally very dry, they are not
eatable if more than twelve months old; they are generally larded, and served
plain roasted, rather well done; they are trussed like the common fowl,
and require nearly three-quarters of an hour to roast. It has very much the
flavor of the pheasant, and should be allowed to hang as long as it can
without being too far gone. Serve with a rich brown gravy and bread
sauce; it will take from forty-five to fifty minutes.   1004.--PEA
FOWLS. 
 These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when young are very
excel-lent; they are larded, or plain roasted, and served with the tail
feathers which have been preserved, stuck into the bird, the head, with
its feathers on, being left folded up in paper, and tucked under the
wing; roast about an hour and a half; take the paper from the
head and neck; dress it upon your dish with water-cresses,
and the gravy and bread sauce separate in a boat.   MADE DISHES
OF POULTRY.   1005.--FOWL A LA PROVENCAL. 
 Partly roast the fowl; cut it up, detaching the wings and
legs, carefully dividing side bones, neck bones,
breast, and back in as handsome pieces as possible; take eight or ten
large onions, which cut in slices of moderate thickness, make in a
stewpan a layer of the sliced onion with some chopped parsley,
then lay upon it some of the fowl, again a layer of the onion and
parsley until the whole of the fowl and onion are used;
place in two bay-leaves and about as much salt as would fill a large
teaspoon, four table-spoonfuls of olive oil, or, if that is not to the
palate, substitute cream; it should simmer gently until enough, and then
be dished, the onion in the middle: serve with a little sauc 
 1006.--FOWL A LA BECHAMEL. 
 If you have had a roast capon for the second course the day before,
and only a little cut from the breast, take a sharp knife and cut
through the breast bone down nearly to the rump, left of the
breast, take off the skin and cut it up as you would for pulled
fowl; have ready in a stewpan a little good white sauce, chopped
parsley, and shalot, a little piece of mushroom chopped; boil all
this to gether, keeping it quite thick, scrape out any thing remaining in the
inside of the fowl, then season with lemon-juice, salt,
and cayenne pepper: fill in the fowl, imitating a whole
fowl, cover it with bread-crumbs, sprinkle clarified
butter all over the bread-crumbs, butter paper and tie round
the fowl, put it into the oven to brown the top and get hot through;
when done a light brown take off the paper, and put it into your dish
with a good sauce under it.   1007.--AN INDIAN PILAU. 
 Truss a fowl as for boiling, pass it a few minutes in the oven,
raising it up with fat bacon or buttered paper; fry some
onions, a few bruised coriander seeds, and a few cardamom
seeds whole: fry a nice light color four onions cut in slices, add
to this a gill or more of cream, having all fried in a little
butter; put in your fowl with some good veal stock, have
ready some rice boiled in milk for two minutes, skim it off and
add it to the fowl frequently looking at it and moving it to keep it
from sticking or  367 burning: let your
fowl stew for a quar-ter of an hour before you add the rice: do
not let the rice get mashed; season with cayenne pepper and
salt, put all the rice and liquor round the fowl: you can
use rabbits, or chickens, or quails, or veal, instead of fowl, the same way. 
 Gravy may be made thus: Nicely wash the feet of a fowl, and
cut them and the neck into small pieces, simmer them with a little
browned bread, a slice of onions, a bit of parsley, and
thyme, some pepper, and salt, and the liver and
gizzard in a quarter of a pint of water; simmer them till they
are reduced to a half; take out the liver, bruise it, and strain the
liquor to it, then thicken it with flour and butter, and add a
teaspoon-ful of mushroom ketchup.   1008.--CURRY of CHICKEN. 
 Out up a raw chicken; put into a stewpan, with two ounces of
butter, half a large onion sliced thin, a few sprigs of
parsley and thyme, and two ounces of lean ham; let the
whole sweat over the fire for a few minutes; add a heaped table-spoonful of
curry-powder, and a small one of flour; shake the whole together
for five minutes over the fire; put to it a pint of either gravy or
water; let the whole go gently until the chicken is done; take
out the chicken, rub the sauce through a sieve, boil it up, skim,
put in the chicken, season with salt and lemon-juice to
palate. Plain boiled rice to be served in a separate dish. 
 
 Croquettes. --Take the lean of the re-mains of a
fowl from a previous dinner, and chop it up in small pieces, then put
into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, with half an ounce of
butter: pass them for about three minutes over the fire, add a
teaspoonful of flour, mix well, then add the fowl, and a gill of
white sauce, or more if not sufficiently moist; season with
pepper, salt, and sugar; then stir in the yolks of two
eggs very quickly, stir it a little longer on the fire, and turn it out on
a dish to cool; when cold, take twelve pieces, each the size of a
walnut, roll them out an inch and a half in length, and
bread-crumb twice over; fry a good color.   1009.--DUMPOKHT.* 
 Clean and truss a fowl, or rabbit, as for roasting; then stuff
it with sultana raisins, pistachio-nuts, and boiled rice
in equal parts. Rub fine one ounce of coriander-seed freed from the
husks, four onions, a dozen peppercorns, six
cloves, and a teaspoonful of pounded ginger. Set twelve ounces of
butter in a stewpan over the fire, rub the pounded ingredients over the
fowl or rabbit, and let it fry until perfectly well browned and
tender. Have boiled in a quart of white broth twelve ounces of
rice, two ounces of raisins, two ounces of pistachio-nuts,
and two of almonds, the two latter blanched, and cut into thin slices.
When the rice is nearly tender, strain off the broth, and add the
rice to the fried fowl; stir the whole well, that the
butter may completely saturate the rice, and keep it near the
fire to swell till wanted. In serving surround the fowl with the
rice. Observe that, in pounding the onions, the juice only
is used with the spices.   1010.--TURKEY GIBLETS A LA
BOURGEOIS. 
 The giblets consist of pinions, feet, neck,
liver, and gizzard; scald, and put them into a stewpan with a
piece of butter, parsley, scallions. garlic, thyme,
bayleaf, basil, mushrooms, and a clove or two; moisten
with stock, season with pepper and salt, make it hot,
thicken with a little flour, and when almost done add a few
turnips fried slightly in a little butter. 
 A dish mentioned in the Arabian Nights as the kid stuffed with
pistachio-nuts.    1011.--TO ROAST A
GOOSE. 
 Goose in itself is of a strong rich fla-vor, and requires both nicety
in the cook-ing as well as in the stuffing to obviate that strength of
flavor. There are many modes of stuffing; for one mode, take two
moderate sized onions and boil them rapidly ten minutes, then chop them
finely, mince sage to the quantity of half the onion, add of
powdered bread twice as much as of onion, pepper and
salt it, introducing a little cayenne, and then bind it with the
beaten yolk of an egg. Potatoes mashed are sometimes introduced, but
not frequently into the body; they should be mashed with floury
potatoes mixed with cream and a little fresh butter rather
highly seasoned with cayenne and salt. Both ends of the
goose should be secured when trussed, that the seasoning may not
escape. It should be roasted before a quick fire and kept constantly basted; a
piece of white paper may be placed over the breast while roasting
until it rises, and then it may be removed; it will take from an hour and a
half to an hour and three-quarters: serve with a rich brown gravy and
apple sauce. 
 Previous to sending to table, a flavoring may be made as follows: to a
dessert-spoonful of made mustard add a quarter of a teaspoonful of
cayenne pepper, about the same quantity of salt, mix it evenly
with a glass of port wine and two glasses of rich gravy, make it
hot, cut a slit in the apron of the goose, and pour it through just
previously to serving. 
 A 
 Green Goose  is seldom or never stuffed; the
inside may be well peppered and sailed, and it should be roasted be-fore a
brisk fire about three-quarters of an hour; it should be sent to table with no
other accompaniment than a good brown gravy and apple or
sorrel sauce.   1012.--PRESERVED GOOSE FOR THE FARM OR COUNTRY
HOUSE.   In case you have more geese in condition and season than what you
consume kill and cut them up into pieces, so that there shall be as little
flesh left on the carcass as possible, and bone the leg; rub into
each piece with your fingers some salt, in which you have mixed a little
saltpetre; put them into an earthen pan, with some thyme,
bayleaf, spice, a clove of chopped garlic, rub them for a
couple of days, after which dip each piece in water, and dry on a cloth
5 when you have chopped fine and melted all the fat you could get from
the goose, and scraped a quarter of a pound of fat bacon and
melted with it, pass through a sieve into a stewpan, lay the pieces in it and
bake very gently in a slow oven, until a stiff piece of straw will go through
it, then lay it in a sieve; when nearly cold put it in a bowl or round
preserving jar, and press a smaller one on the top, so that it all forms one
solid mass, pour the fat over, when cold cover with a piece of bladder,
keep it in a cold place, and it will be good for months together, and is
excellent for breakfast, luncheon, or supper, having previously extracted the
fat. Last winter I kept some for three months quite sweet; having half a
one left, I put it by in the above way, bones and all, in a basin, and
covered with the fat produced by roasting, and put it in the larder, and
it was excellent. Ducks may be served in the same way. 
 
 Marbled Goose. --Take a fine mellow
ox-tongue out of pickle, cut off the root and horny part at the
tip, wipe dry, and boil till it is quite tender then peel it, cut a deep slit
in its whole length, and lay a fair proportion of the following mixture within
it:--Mace half an ounce, nutmeg half an ounce, clove half
an ounce, salt two tablespoonfuls, and twelve olives. The
olives should be stoned, and all the ingredients well pounded together.
Next take a barn-door fowl and a good large goose, and
bone them. Lay the  369 tongue
inside the fowl, rub the latter outside with the seasoning, and
having ready some slices of ham divested of the rind, wrap them
tightly round the fowl 5 put these inside the goose, with the
remainder of the seasoning, sew it up, and make all secure and in
natural shape with a piece of new linen and tape. Put it in an earthen pan or
jar just large enough to hold it, with plenty of clarified butter, and
bake it two hours and a half in a slow oven; then take it out, and when cold
take out the goose and set it in a sieve; take off the butter and
hard fat which put by the fire to melt, adding, if required, more
clarified butter. Wash and wipe out the pan, put the bird again into it,
and take care that it is well covered with the warm butter; then tie the
jar down with bladder and leather. It will keep thus for a long time. When
wanted for the table, the jar should be placed in a tub of hot water so
as to melt the butter, the goose then can be taken out, the cloth
taken off it, and sent to table cold. A most delicious dish for breakfasts,
suppers, picnics, &c.   DUCKS. 
 Ducks may be roasted as soon as killed. Keep a clear bright fire. Let
them be done of a light brown, but if wild they should not be much roasted, or
the flavor will be spoiled. They take about an hour to roast, and should be
well basted. The livers and gizzards are parboiled, chopped fine,
and thrown into the gravy. 
 Canvas back ducks are roasted in half an hour; they should always be
served with currant jelly. For tame ducks apple sauce is more
appropriate.   1013.--TO STEW DUCKS. 
 There is a difference between a stewed duck and stewed duck,
and it is not the a alone:in the one case the duck is stewed whole, and
in the other in pieces. To stew a duck or ducks, they should be
stuffed and roasted for twenty minutes, and then placed in a stewpan with an
onion cut in slices, a little sage and mint, and sweet
herbs chopped fine, and about a pint of good beef gravy, seasoned
with pepper and salt; let it stew gently for about twenty
minutes, take out the duck carefully and keep it warm, strain the
gravy, pour it into a clean stewpan, and add to it when well heated the
duck and a quart of green peas; let it simmer for half an hour,
if not sufficiently thick add a little flour and butter, a glass
of good old port wine, and send to table with the peas in the
same dish as the duck.   1014.--TO STEW A DUCK WITH CLARET. 
 Make a gravy of the giblets; rub the duck inside and
outside with pepper and a little salt; peel and mince two or
three onions, and having half roasted the duck, put it into a
stewpan with the gravy and onions. Stew it gently for two hours,
adding toward the end a glass of claret or port wine. Squeeze the
juice of a lemon over the duck, and serve it with toasted
bread. 
 "What remains of a roasted wild duck, may be warmed the next day in
heaters with a little currant jelly, when it is excellent. 
 Ducks may he hashed and stewed with a glass of port wine,
thrown into the gravy.   1015.--TO BOIL DUCKS. 
 Clean and pluck them, let the skin be preserved from rents while
plucking, salt them for about thirty hours previous to cooking,
flour a clean white cloth and boil them in it; a moderate sized
duck will take about an hour's boiling, make a rich onion sauce
with, milk, and send it to table with the duck. When the
duck  370 is boiled fresh it may be stuffed
as for roasting, and served with the same de-scription of gravy. 
 1016.--STEWED DUCK AND PEAS.  
 Procure a duck trussed with the legs turned inside, which put
into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of
streaked bacon, let remain over a fire, stirring occasionally until
lightly browned, when add a tablespoonful of flour mixed well, and a
quart of broth or water: stir round gently until boiling, when
skim, and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley, with a
bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then add a
quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take about
half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish (taking
away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and bay-leaf,
season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and
sugar, skim the fat, reduce a little if not sufficiently thick,
pour over the duck, and serve.   1017.--DUCKLING WITH TURNIPS 
 Is a very favorite dish among the middle classes in France. Proceed as in
the last, but instead of peas use about forty pieces of good
turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces, having previously fried
them of a light yellow color in a little butter or lard, and
drained them upon a sieve; dress the duck upon a dish as before, season
the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar:
reduce until rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this
description; the turnips must not, however, be in puree; sauce
over and serve.   1018.--WILD DUCKS, OR TEAL. 
 You must be very particular in not roasting these birds too much; baste them
very frequently; teal will of course take less time; but your fire and motion
of the spit must be attended to, and when you dish it, unless preferred to be
done by the gentleman at the table, draw your knife four times down the
breast; have ready a little hot butter, and juice of a
lemon, cayenne pepper, a little dust of sugar, a glass of
port wine, pour it all hot, the last minute, over your ducks; the
remainder left of those birds the next day makes excellent salmi or hash,
taking care of all the gravy that may re-main. 
 They must be roasted at a very brisk fire; they take from twelve to twenty
minutes, according to taste. Some people are of opinion that they should only
fly through the kitchen: by epicures they are considered to be in perfection
when they come up dry and brown, and, when cut flood the dish with
gravy. The means of insuring success consists in a very ardent fire,
rapid motion of the spit, and constant basting. The carver should score the
breast of the duck, put a piece of butter on it, and cut a
lemon in half, putting on one half a spoonful of salt, and on the
other a cayenne-spoonful of cayenne; put the two together, and
squeeze vigorously over the duck. 
 
 To stew .--Shred thyme, winter savory,
and sage, very small, put them into some strong broth, with a
little pepper, salt, and two spoonfuls of wine: stew them
together for one quarter of an hour; nearly roast the ducks, add the
gravy that falls from them, but not the fat; then place a deep
dish under them, and pour this sauce through, and over them into it.
Remove the ducks, cut them up, and put them with the sauce into a
stewpan over a stove, and let them stew till they are done enough. 
 
 Canvas Buck Duck  should be cooked like
wild duck, but nearer the fire, the fat being so delicate, that
it requires to be cooked quickly; good plain gravy is  all that is required to make them perfect. 
 1019.--PLOVERS. 
 Roast the 
 golden   plover in the same way as woodcocks
and quails, without drawing; and serve on a toast. 
 
 Grey Plovers .--Draw them: they may be either roasted
or stewed with gravy, herbs, and spice. 
 
 Plover's Eggs .--Boil them ten minutes, and
serve either hot or cold; the former on a napkin, the latter on moss. Send to
table with the second course.   1020.--PARTRIDGES. 
 being less dry than pheasants, do not require stuffing,
although they are improved by it, made either of chesnuts or truffles
and bacon. They are sometimes roasted, wrapped in bacon and
vine leaves: bread-crumbs are essential. In some places
partridges are sent up with forcemeat-balls in the dish. 
 1021.--TO STEW PARTRIDGES. 
 Truss them with the wings over the back, and the legs drawn
in; cut a piece of pork or bacon in long strips, and put them
into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Fry
the bacon brown, and when quite done put in the partridges, and
keep turning them until they are very brown, taking care that the bacon
shall be as much on the breast as possible; then add about a tea-cupful
of gravy, and some trimmings of meat and vegetables. Have ready a
large cabbage boiled; when well drained, slice it with butter,
pepper, and salt, put it while warm with the gravy to the
partridges, and let them stew gently for an hour, turning the birds
frequently. Serve up with the bacon underneath, and the cabbage
round them, squeezed dry, and the sauce well skimmed.   1022.--SALMI
OF PARTRIDGE. 
 Half roast the partridges, cut them up neatly, take off the
skin; put the trimmings in a stewpan, with a bit of butter and a
tablespoonful of flour; stir the whole over the fire; then add a glass
of white wine and a little gravy or stock, some shalots;
chopped parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, pepper, salt; let
it boil fast for half an hour; strain, skim, add the juice of a lemon,
and make the joints of the partridge hot in the sauce. 
 
 Or: --Roast the partridges, leaving them
underdone. When cold, cut them into pieces, taking off the skin. Put
three spoonfuls of oil in to a saucepan, a glass of claret, salt,
pepper, a shalot, and the juice of a lemon. Toss the
partridges in this sauce until they are sufficiently done to send
to table. 
 
 Or: --Cut up and place on a dish the breasts,
wings, and legs of any roasted game you may have left;
cover it with another dish, or tin cover, and set it over a pan of boiling water to keep warm. Then pound the small bones of the carcase, with the inside, in a mortar, and put them into a saucepan with a little
gravy thickened with some flour rolled in butter, a
wine-glass of port wine, a spoonful of ketchup, a very
small piece of shalot chopped fine, cayenne pepper, and salt.
When it has been boiled for half an hour, strain it through a sieve, to form it
into a perfect 
 purée,  and pour it over the game in
your dish; garnish with forcemeat-balls, and slices of lemon cut
thin.   1023.--BROILED PARTRIDGE. 
 Cut the bird down the back; break the merrythought, which will allow it to
be made quite fat; cut off the feet at the joint, and skewer it
as a fowl to broil; dry, flour, egg, and sprinkle it with
chopped herbs and bread-crumbs, well seasoned; broil and serve
with a little  good gravy, with a
mushroom or two chopped up small.   1024.--GROUSE. 
 Mix a small lump of butter with a few bread-crumbs, and put it
in the inside of the birds--not in the crop--it keeps them moist. They require
to be nicely roasted and well basted.   1025.--RABBITS. 
 To 
 Fricassee  a rabbit cut it in pieces, reserve
the liver; put a piece of bacon cut in slices into a stewpan,
brown it well and lay it aside; put the rabbit in the pan with a piece
of butter; turn and toss the rabbit well until it is quite
white. When it is getting brown dredge a spoonful of flour over
it, turning all the while, and when the flour is dry, put the
rabbit in a plate. Then add another piece of butter to the
remaining sauce, and stir it well together, and when brown, add a cupful
of water; continue stirring, and put in the rabbit with plenty of
very small onions, the bacon, some mushrooms, a bunch of
parsley, and some salt and pepper; let it stew very gently
over a slow fire for four hours. Add the liver and a glass of port
wine one hour before serving, and should there not be sufficient
sauce, a little gravy from time to time, put in hot. 
 When a rabbit is roasted, it should first be well stuffed. Serve it
with sauce made of liver, parsley, and melted
butter. Truss it like a hare. 
 Rabbits may be stewed, or fried, or baked in a pie. 
 Rabbits, being rather dry meat, are much improved by larding.
Should the process be deemed too troublesome upon common occasions, a good
effect may be produced by lining the inside of the rabbit with slices of
fat bacon previously to putting in the stuffing. This is a very
easy method of improvement, and ought never to be neglected. 
 A boned rabbit, larded, stuffed, and braised, affords a cheap and
elegant side-dish for a dinner-party.   1026.--TO MAKE RABBIT TASTE
MUCH LIKE HARE. 
 Choose one that is young, but fullgrown, hang it in the skin three or
four days, then skin it, and lay it without washing in a seasoning of
black pepper and all-spice in a very fine powder, a glass of port
wine, and the same quantity of vinegar. Baste it occasionally for
forty hours; then stuff it and roast it as a hare, and with the same
sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that it was soaked in.   1027.--TO
ROAST HARE. 
 After it is skinned, let it be extremely well wiped; and, if old,
lard it, which will make it tender, as will also letting it lie in
vinegar. If, however, it is put into vinegar, it should be
exceedingly well washed in water afterwards. Put a large well-seasoned
stuffing into the belly, and then sew it up. Baste it well with
milk till half done, and afterwards with butter. The hare
should be kept at a distance from the fire at first. Serve with a fine froth,
rich gravy, and currant jelly sauce; little gravy in the
dish. For stuffing use the liver pounded, an anchovy, some
fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, pepper,
salt, nutmeg, crumbs of bread, and an egg to bind
it all. The ears must be nicely cleaned, singed, and made crisp, being
reckoned a dainty.   1028.--JUGGED HARE. 
 Skin the hare, and cut it in pieces, but do not wash it; strew
it over with pepper and salt, fry it brown. Make a
seasoning of two anchovies, a sprig of thyme, a little
parsley, a nutmeg grated, a little mace, a few
cloves pounded, and a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel.  Strew this over the hare, after having
carefully taken it out of the pan clear of fat, slice half lb. of
bacon very thin, put it into a jug or jar, a layer of hare and
one of bacon upon it, until the whole is put in, then add rather less
than half a pint of ale; cover the jug very closely, so as per-fectly to
keep in the steam; put it into a kettle of cold water, lay a tile on the
top of the jug, and let it boil three hours if the hare be young, or
four or five if an old one. Take the jug out of the kettle, pick out all the
bacon which has not melted, and shake the hare up in a stewpan,
with a little mushroom ketchup, a glass of port wine, a little
mushroom powder if at hand, and a little butter and flour,
well mixed together to thicken the gravy. A teaspoonful of
lemon-pickle, and one of browning, will heighten the flavor. 
 1029.--PILAU OF RABBIT.   Cut up a rabbit or fowl; pound a
couple of onions in a mortar; extract the juice, and mix
it with a saltspoonful of ground ginger, a teaspoonful of salt,
and the juice of a lemon: rub this into the meat; cut up two
onions in slices, and fry them in a quarter of a pound of butter.
When brown take them out and put in the meat; let them stew together.
Have one pound of rice half boiled in broth; put the whole
meat, &c., into a jar, with half a pint of milk, some whole
peppercorns, half a dozen cloves, and a little more salt.
Secure the mouth of the jar, and bake it until done enough, adding a little
broth, should the butter and milk not be sufficient to
moisten it.   1030.--TO CRISP PARSLEY. 
 Pick some bunches of young parsley, wash them, and swing them in a
cloth to dry; put them on a sheet of paper in a toaster before the fire,
and keep them frequently turned, till they are quite crisp, which will be in
about six or eight minutes.   1031.--TO FRY PARSLEY. 
 When the parsley has been washed and thoroughly dried, throw it into
lard or butter which is on the point of boiling; take it up with
a slice the instant it is crisp, and lay it on a paper on a sieve before
the fire. A wire basket is the nicest thing to use for frying parsley,
or any thing requiring to be fried. 
 1032.--FRIED BREAD FOR GARNISHING. 
 Take slices of stale bread about a third of an inch thick, cut them
into shapes with a paste-cutter, fry them in fresh butter a light
brown, lay them upon a cloth to dry, and place them round the dish. They may be made to adhere by brushing the under part with a little flour mixed with white of egg. 

  Bread crumbs. --All game and small
birds are improved by the addition of bread crumbs, either fried or
toasted; the latter is the more delicate preparation: grate the crumbs, and put them into a tin shallow dish before the fire, shaking them occasionally, until they are well browned: send them up in the dish; with a tureen of good brown gravy made from the insides and trimmings of the birds, but without any kind of seasoning. 

 1033.--RABBITS, TO SKIN,  &c.  

 Cut round the skin at the first joint of the hind legs, and
pull the skin up a little, then run the knife between the sinew and the
bone of the leg, so as to make a hole to hang it on a nail in a
wall, with the head downwards; run a knife along the skin inside
the thigh as far as the tail, so as to cut it, then run the hand under
the skin, and it will easily separate from the body; pull it down
towards the head, taking care not to tear the belly: when you have
arrived as far as the head, pull up the fore legs, cutting the
feet off at the first joint; then pull up the ears by running a

  

skewer between the skin and the head, and pull the skin off, cutting the nose and lips; remove it
from the nail, cut off the hind feet at the first joint; cut open the body, remove the inside, reserve the liver, heart, and kidneys, and throw away the remainder; wash out the inside. If for   roasting,  make the following  stuffing ; take the liver, heart, and kidneys, blanch them, put them into a fryingpan with a little fat, and one small onion chopped up; sauté a little, then remove and chop them up with two ounces of pork fat or
bacon, a little parsley, and mix with bread crumbs and the yolk of an egg; stuff and sew up the belly. 
 Truss  as follows: bring the hind and fore
legs close to the body towards the head, run a skewer through
each, then run a skew-er in at the mouth and through the neck, to keep
it upright; it should be exactly as if it was sitting Put a string round the body from skewer to skewer, and it is ready. 

 VENISON  

 1084.--THE HAUNCH. 

 "The observed of all observers" when epicureans sit at table; it is a joint, if properly kept, properly cooked and served hot, which must prove delicious. The delicacy of its flavor is obtained by hanging only: if it be cooked while fresh, it will not equal in any respect a haunch of mutton. 

 The haunch of venison, when about to be roasted, should be washed in
warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth; if it has hung
very long and the skin smells musty, it will be the safest plan to
remove the skin and wrap the whole of the haunch in paper well
greased with fresh butter; during the time it is at the fire, do not be
afraid of basting it too much. If it be a buck haunch and large, it will take nearly four hours within five or ten minutes; if comparatively small, three hours and a half will suffice; if a doe haunch, three hours and a quarter will be enough. 

 All venison for roasting should have a paste made of
lard over it; after first having papered the meat with buttered
paper, then your stiff paste upon the top of that, either dangle
it or put it in a cradle spit; a few minutes before you require to take it up take off the paste and paper, baste it with some butter,
salt it and flour it, when done give it a few more turns round,
send it up very hot; your dish and gravy is to be very hot also; any dry
pieces and the shank you will boil down with a little brown stock for
the gravy; send currant jelly in a boat, and French beans
in a vegetable dish. 

 1035.--VENISON STEAKS. 

 Cut them from the neck; season them with pepper and
salt. When the gridiron has been well heated over a bed of bright
coals, grease the bars, and lay the steaks upon it. Broil
them well, turning them once, and taking care to save as much of the
gravy as possible. Serve them up with some currant jelly laid on
each steak. 

 1036.--TO HASH VENISON. 

 Carve your venison into slices: let them be thin, and put them in a stewpan with two small glasses of port wine: add a spoonful of browning, one of ketch-up, an onion stuck with cloves, and half an anchovy chopped
small, let it boil, then put in your venison, make it thor-oughly hot
through. Lay sippets of toast, in various shapes in a soup dish, pour
the hash upon it, and serve with currant jelly. 

 1037.--VENISON FRIED. 

 Cut the meat into slices fry a light brown, and keep hot before the
fire.  Make gravy of the bones and
any trimmings, add a little floured butter, and stir until it is
thick and brown, then add lemon-juice and port wine to taste,
with pepper or cayenne. Warm the venison in the
gravy, place in a dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve with
currant jelly in a glass. 

 1038.--A SHOULDER OF VENISON STEWED. 

 If you should have a very lean shoulder, stew it in preference to roasting; bone it, cover it with slices of mutton fat, which sometimes are first steeped in port to give a richer flavor, roll it up and bind it tightly. Lay it in a stewpan with a quantity of beef gravy, and the bones
you have taken from the venison, add two glasses of port, a dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and the same quantity of allspice. Cover down closely, and simmer until the venison is tender, take it out and remove the fat, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and strain it over the meat. 

 1039.--ROAST SHOULDER OF VENISON. 

 Take the bones out of a shoulder of venison. Fill the cavity
with the fat of a loin of mutton. Roast before a quick fire, basting it
constantly with the drippings and a little port wine. It should
be served underdone with a sauce of port wine, currant jelly and
red pepper. 

 The neck and shoulder, as together they may be termed the haunch
joint, may be dressed exactly like the haunch, covered with a thin
paste, and greased paper over that. 

 GAME ought not to be thrown away even when it has been kept a very
long time; for when it seems to be spoiled, it may often be made fit for eating by nicely cleaning it, and washing with vinegar and water. If
there is danger of birds not keeping, draw, crop, and pick them; then wash in two or three waters, and rub them with salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling water, and plunge them into it one by one, drawing them up and down by the legs, that the water may pass through them. Let
them stay five or six minutes in; then hang them up in a cold place. When
drained, pepper and salt the inside well. By this method the most delicate birds may be preserved. Before roasting, wash them well. But, as a rule, no game should be washed, for one-half the game that is sent to table is spoiled by being saturated with water. 

 In  dressing Game  be careful to keep a clear
fire. Let it be done of a bright brown, but not much roasted, or the fine
flavor will be destroyed. It requires to be continually basted, and to be sent up beautifully frothed. Wild-fowl take a much shorter time than domestic poultry. 

 1040.--TO DRESS A FAWN OB KID. 

 They should be dressed as quickly after being killed as it is convenient. If they are full grown they should be roasted in quarters, but if very young may be dressed, trussed, and stuffed exactly as a hare; the quarters will be improved in flavor when the fawn is full grown, if they are covered with fat bacon, and basted as venison; serve venison sauce with it. 

 1041--PHEASANTS. (English receipt.) 

 Pheasants are rarely stuffed, it is more customary to send them to table accompanied by forcemeat in the, dish, in many cases with the simple gravy, only; the real epicurean in game prefers the flavor of the bird
uncontaminated by any accessories save those which just assist to

  

remove the dryness common to most game. Pheasants are sometimes larded, but as the flavor is entirely disguised by the taste of the bacon, incorporated with the flesh of the fowl, unless it is done more for appearance than palate, we would not advise it. 

 In dressing the pheasant it should be drawn and cleaned as other
game and trussed, should be roasted before a clear, not a fierce fire,
and will take forty minutes; it must not be done too much, but must not on any account be sent to table underdone. 

 1041.--WOODCOCK, SNIPE, ETC. 

 To roast these birds, put them on a little spit, take a slice of wheaten bread, and toast it brown, then lay it on a dish under the birds; baste them with a little butter, and let the trail drop on the toast. When they are roasted, put the toast in the dish, lay the woodcocks on it, and have a quarter of a pint of gravy; pour it in a dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing-dish for three minutes; and send them to table. Epicures say you should never take any thing out of a woodcock or snipe. The head of the woodcock is considered a great delicacy. 

 To roast  pheasants,   partridges,    quails,   and other small birds, pick and draw them immediately after they are brought in. If they are of a nature to be improved by it,  lard  them with small slips of the  fat of bacon  drawn through the flesh with a larding-needle. 

 To roast  reed-birds  or  ortolans,  put into every bird an  oyster,  or a little  butter  mixed with some finely sifted  breadcrumbs.  Dredge them with  flour.  Run a small skewer through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with  lard  or with fresh  butter.  They will be done in about ten minutes. Reed-birds are very fine made into little dumplings with a thin crust of   flour  and  butter,  and boiled about twenty minutes. Each must be tied in a separate cloth. 

 

 VEGETABLES. 

 The fresher all green vegetables are used after being taken from the ground the better; and therefore nothing can be comparable to cutting them from your own garden; but, when purchased in the market, care should be taken that those of the cabbage tribe should appear crisp and vividly green: not too small, nor yet overgrown in size. 

 When about to be used, the outer leaves should be stripped, the stalks cut short, and the vegetable immersed for an hour or two in cold water, into which should be put a handful of salt for the purpose of thoroughly cleansing it from slugs, and those insects with which the leaves are commonly infested. All green vegetables should be put into boiling water. Never boil any species of greens with meat. Boil them in plenty of pure water, with salt, to which a little vinegar may be added with advantage; do not cover the saucepan, but keep up a steady fire, so that they shall not be allowed to stop boiling until thoroughly done: drain them  instantly, for if overboiled they lose their flavor and become insipid; they should be well done, for if that be neglected for the purpose of
preserving their crispness, they will be rendered indigestible. 

  Hard water  spoils the color of such vegetables as should be green, but a very small bit of soda or carbonate of ammonia will soften it, and even improve their brightness. The practice of putting  pearlash  in the pot to improve their color, should be strictly forbidden, as it imparts an unpleasant flavor; as will also  soda  if not cautiously used. 

 

   1042.--POTATOES Require no attention for the preservation of their  color,  but their  flavor  will be spoiled if their dressing be not attended to, which, although of the most simple nature, is frequently ill performed. The best mode of doing it is to sort the  potatoes,  and choose them of an equal size; wash them with a scrubbing-brush, and put them into  cold water  sufficient to cover them, and no more. About ten minutes after the  water  has come to a boil, take out the half of it, and replace with  cold water,  to check it; the reason assigned for which is, "that the  cold water  sends the heat from the surface to the  heart,  and makes the  potatoes  mealy." Then throw in a large: handful of  salt, 
leave the pot uncovered, and let it remain upon the fire to simmer until the  potatoes  are done; this is the moment to be watched, for if overboiled, they will become waxy. The cook should, therefore, occasionally try them, by piercing them to the  heart  with a fork, and, when they are tender, the pot should be instantly taken off the fire, and the  potatoes   passed through a colander to drain; which being done, and the  water  thrown out, they should then be replaced upon a folded flannel, in the same pot, which should be left by the side of the fire to keep hot and to cause the evaporation of the
steam. When served, they should be wrapped in a warmed cotton napkin. If of moderate size they will take about half an hour boiling, to which fifteen minutes must be added for evaporation, ere they can be sent to table.   Potato Steamer and Saucepan.  An illustration of a potator steamer and saucepan. 
  An iron pot is the best vessel for boiling  potatoes  in, since, after the  water  has been poured off, it retains sufficient heat to dry them thoroughly. 

 A good and economical mode of dressing  potatoes,  when soup,  meat,  or other eatables are to be boiled, is to have a tin strainer fitted to the mouth of the saucepan, so as to allow the steam to ascend from the boiler. 

 Notwithstanding the directions here given for  cooking  potatoes,   there is a point, on which there exists a difference of opinion, that is  respecting the peeling  of the roots, whether  before  or  after  their being boiled? 
 
 In Lancashire, England, where they are largely grown and admirably boiled, they are first peeled; while in Ireland they are invariably brought to table "with their jackets on." Count Rumford also recommends their being boiled in their  skins;  the cuisinier Bourgeois likewise thinks that  "les pommes des terre sont meuilleures en robe de chambre."  
 

 

  1043.--TO KEEP
POTATOES. 

Buy them as dug from the ground, without taking off the earth which adheres to them, and never wash them until wanted to be dressed. Place them in a dry cellar, upon straw, and cover them in winter with straw or
mats, to guard them from the frost. 
 

 

  1044.--NEW
POTATOES 

Should be dressed as soon as possible after being taken from the ground, and are always best when grown in frames. When washed, they should be rubbed with a coarse cloth, and a little  salt  to take off the thin outer  skin,  but they should not be peeled. Put them into  boiling water;  they will require but a few minutes to do them; send them to table in a hot napkin, unless covered with  white sauce,  which should be seasoned with a  little  salt  and a slight grating of  nutmeg.  When quite young they should never be sliced nor fried. 
 

 

  1045.--POTATO FLOUR. Rasp the  potatoes  into a tub of  cold water,  and change it repeatedly until the raspings fall to the bottom like a  paste;  then dry it in the air, pound it in a mortar, and pass it through a hair sieve. It is nearly as nutritive, and much lighter than  wheaten flour;  it is, therefore, preferable for making puddings and pastry for infants and invalids; a portion of it also improves the appearance of household bread, and dealers constantly pass it off as  arrowroot.  If kept dry, it will remain good for years. 

   Jelly   is made from the  flour;  only  boiling water  must be poured upon it, but care must be taken that it be
absolutely boiling or the complete change into  jelly  will not take place. It does not take many minutes to thus change a raw  potato  into this substance, which is not only highly nutritive, but extremely agreeable to the palate, when flavored with a little  sugar,   nutmeg,  and  white wine.  
 

 

  1046.--POTATO-WALL Or edging, to serve round fricassees, forms also a pretty addition to a corner dish.--Mash in a mortar as many boiled  potatoes  as you may want, with a good piece of  butter;  then, with the bowls of two silver spoons, raise a wall of it two and a half inches high within the rim of the dish to be used. Let the upper part be a little thinner than the lower; smooth it; and, after brushing it all over with  egg,  put it into the oven to become hot and a little colored. Before egging it, the outside may be ornamented with bits of  paste  cut into shapes. 
 

 

  1046.--TO MASH POTATOES. Let them be thoroughly boiled; peel them, and take out all
the specks, and little  hard  lumps which are sometimes found. Beat them till quite fine in a wooden bowl or mortar, or break them thoroughly with a three-pronged fork; sprinkle a little  salt,  and mix them up smoothly with  butter  or boiling  milk.  Take care that the  potatoes  shall not be too wet, or they will become heavy and watery; great smoothness, lightness, and a rich taste are required in mashed  potatoes : if required to be very fine, rub them through a colander or sieve before adding the boiling  milk  and  butter.  
  (Potato Masher.)  An illustration of a potato masher. 
 
 

 

  1048.--POTATO-LOAVES 

Are very nice when eaten with  roast beef  or  mutton,  and are made of any portion of the mashed roots, prepared without  milk,  by mixing with them a good quantity of very finely minced raw shalot, powdered with  pepper  and  salt  then
beating up the whole with a little  butter  to bind it, and dividing it into small loaves of a conical form, and placing them under the  meat  to brown, that is, when it is so nearly done as to impart some of the  gravy 
along with the  fat.  
 

 

  1049.--TO BROWN
POTATOES. 

While the  meat  is roasting, and an hour before it is served, boil the  potatoes  and take off the  skins;   flour  them well, and put them under the  meat,  taking care to dry them from the dripping, before they are sent to table. The  kidney potatoes  are best dressed in this way. The flouring is very essential. 

 

  Potatoes,  when boiled, if either waxy, or to be eaten with  cold meat  should be peeled and put  whole  upon the gridiron until nicely browned. 

  Potatoes  should always be  boiled  a little before being put into stews, &c., as the first  water  in which they are cooked is of a poisonous quality. 

  Fried  Potatoes   may be cut from raw  potatoes,  pared round and round like an  apple;  cut them in slices one half inch thick; fry quickly, in plenty of hot  fat,  and with as little color as possible; dry them well from the  grease,  and sprinkle with  salt.  When nicely done and piled up properly, fried  potatoes  make a beautiful side dish, which is always eaten with great relish. 
 

 

  1050.--POTATO
RISSOLES. 

Boil the  potatoes  floury; mash them,  seasoning  with  salt  and a little  cayenne;  mince  parsley  very finely and work up with the  potatoes,  adding  eschalot  also chopped small; bind with  yolk of egg;  roll into balls and fry with fresh  butter  over a clear fire.  Meat  shred finely,  bacon  or  ham  may be added. 
 

 

  1051.--POTATO
SOUFFLÉ. 

Take any number of large  potatoes,  the less eyes
and the firmer the  skin  the better. Clean them thoroughly and then bake them; after which cut out a round piece, not quite so large as a half-crown, out of each  potato,  and remove as much of the inside as can be obtained
without damage to the  skin.  Mash the  potatoes  with  cream,  adding
a little  butter,  sprinkle over a little  salt,  and put to it half a pint of good  milk;  give it all a boil; take the  white of three eggs,   whip  them until they froth, add them to the  potatoes  while
they boil, and then make the  potatoes  into a paste: return them through the orifice in the  skin  of the  potato  until each  skin  is full; bake them, and serve. 
 

 

  1052.--POTATOES Á LA MAITRE D'HÔTEL. 

Boil the  potatoes ; before they are quite
dlone take them up, place them aside, and let them get cold; cut them in slices of a moderate thickness; place in a stewpan a lump of fresh  butter,  and a teaspoonful of  flour;  let the  butter  boil, and add a teacupful of  broth;  let it boil and add the  potatoes,  which you have covered with  parsley,  chopped fine, and seasoned with  pepper  and  salt;  stew them five minutes, remove them from the fire; beat up the  yolk of one egg  with a table-spoonful of  cold water  and a little  lemon-juice.  The sauce will set, then dish up the  potatoes  and serve. 

  Or,  Cold  potatoes  that have been boiled should be used for this purpose. Lay them in a frying pan with sufficient  milk  (or cream) to cover them, add a little  butter,   salt,  and chopped  parsley,  and fry them until the  milk  thickens. They will be
sufficiently cooked in a quarter of an hour, and make an excel-lent dish for breakfast. 

  To Roast .--Clean thoroughly; nick a small piece out of the  skin,  and roast in the oven of the range; a little  butter  is sometimes rubbed over the  skin  to make them crisp. 
 

 

  1058.--POTATO
OMELETTE. 

May be made with a mashed  potato  or two ounces of  potato-flour  and four  eggs  and seasoned with  pepper, 
 salt,  and a lit-tle  nutmeg.  It should be made thick, and, being rather substantial, a squeeze of  lemon  will improve it. Fry a light
brown. 
 

 

  1054.--BISCUITS OF POTATOES AND POTATO FLOUR. (French.) 

Take fifteen fresh  eggs,  break the
 yolks  into one pan and the  whites  into another. Beat the  yolks  with a pound of  sugar  pounded very fine, scrape the  peel of a lemon  with a lump of  sugar,  dry that, and pound it fine also; then throw into it the  yolks,  and work

 

the  eggs  and  sugar  till they are of a whitish color. Next,  whip  the  whites  well and mix them with the  yolks.  Now sift half a pound of  flour of potatoes  through a silk sieve, over the  eggs 
and  sugar.  Have some  paper  cases ready, which lay on a plafond, with some  paper  underneath. Fill the cases, but not too full; glaze the contents with some rather coarse  sugar,  and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated. 

 
 Julienne Mill. 
 An illustration of a julienne mill. 
 

 

 

  1055.--GREEN PEAS. 

A delicious vegetable, a grateful accessory to many dishes of a more substantial nature.  Green peas  should be sent to table  green ; no dish looks less tempting than  peas  if they wear an autumnal aspect.  Peas  should also be young, and as short
a time as possible should be suffered to elapse between the periods of shelling and boiling. If it is a matter of consequence to send them to table in perfection, these rules must be strictly observed. They should be as near of a size as a discriminating eye can arrange them; they should then be put in a cullender, and some  cold water  suffered to run through them in order to wash them; then having the  water  in which they are to be boiled slightly salted, and boiling rapidly, pour in the  peas;  keep the saucepan uncovered, and keep them boiling swiftly until tender; they will take about twenty minutes, barely so long, unless older than they should be; drain completely, pour them into the tureen in which they are to be served, and in the centre put a slice of  butter,  and when it has melted stir round the
 peas  gently, adding  pepper  and  salt;  serve as quickly and
as hot as possible. 

 It is commonly a practice to boil  mint  with the  peas ; this, however, is very repugnant to many palates, and as it may easily be added if agreeable to the palate, it should not be dressed with the  peas, 
although it may accompany them to table for those who may desire the
flavor. 
 

 

  1056.--TO DRESS SPANISH
ONIONS. 

Take off two  skins,  be particular in not cutting the stalk on the root of the  onion  too much away, if you do, when done it will drop to pieces. Take four large  onions,  put them in a stewpan sufficiently large, so that they may not touch each other, put in a small piece of lean York  ham  and a quarter of a pound of  salt butter,  cover them close, put them on a slow stove or oven, keeping them turned carefully until all sides are pro-perly done: they will take about two hours: then take them up and glaze them, thicken the  gravy,  and season with
 pepper  and  salt.  
 

 

  1057.--SALSIFY AND
SCORZANERA. 

Blanch several  heads  until the  skin  will peel off; when you have done that, cut them all in equal lengths; if to be done in batter, dry them in  bread crumbs,  if for  sauce  make them hot
in a little  veal stock,  dish them, and pour a good  white  or  brown sauce  over them. 
 

 

  1058.--ASPARAGUS. 

Great attention is necessary to boil as-paragus. It must be carefully washed and cleaned, the horny part must be cut away, leaving only enough to take it up with the fingers. After the  white  horny

 

part has been well scraped, cut them all off at one length and tie them up in separate bundles; lay them in  boiling water  with a little  salt.  Boil them briskly, and they are clone enough when tender. Dip a  round of toasted bread  in the liquor, and lay it in the dish; then pour some melted  butter  over the  toast,  and lay the  asparagus  on the
 toast  entirely round the dish. Serve with melted  butter  in a sauce-tureen. 
 

 

  1059.--ASPARAGUS
LOAVES. 

Boil three bunches of  asparagus;  cut off the tops of two bunches when tender, leaving two inches of the  white  stalk on the rest, and keeping it warm; stew the tops in a pint of  new milk,  with three tablespoonfuls of  butter,  rubbed in  flour,  the  yolks of three eggs,   nutmeg  and  mace;  when it boils put the mixture into loaves of rolls, with the crumb scooped out; put on the tops of the rolls; make holes in the tops, and stick in the remaining  asparagus.  
 

 

  1060.--ASPARAGUS
FORCED. 

Scoop out the crumb of three or four  French rolls,  preserving the piece cut from the top, which will have to be fitted on to the part it was cut from; put into a pan with some fresh  butter,  the rolls, and fry them brown, beat up with a pint of  cream,  the  yolks of six eggs,  flavor with some grated  nutmeg  and a little  salt,  put it into a stewpan, and over a slow fire; let it gradually thicken, stirring it all the time. 

 Have ready the tops of a bundle of  asparagus,  say a hundred, and having boiled them tender, put them into the  cream  and fill the rolls with the mixture, reserving a few tops to stick in each roll by way of garnish. 
 

 

  1061.--ASPERGE EN PETIT POIS, OR ASPARAGUS PEAS. 

If the  asparagus  be properly dressed, it should
taste like  green peas.  Take some young  asparagus,  which pick with great care; then cut them into small equal pieces, avoiding to put in such parts as are  hard  or tough. Wash them in several waters, and throw them into  boiling water,  with a little  salt.  When the  asparagus  are nearly done, drain them first through a sieve, and next wipe them quite dry with a towel. Then put them into a stewpan with a small bit of  butter,  a bunch of  parsley  and  green onions,  and toss them in the stewpan over the fire for ten minutes. Now add a little  flour  and a small lump of  sugar,  and moisten with  boiling water.  They must boil over a large fire. When well reduced, take out the  parsley  and  green onions,  and thicken with the  yolks of two eggs  beaten with a little  cream  and a little  salt : remember that in this entremet
 sugar  must predominate, and that there is to be no  sauce.   Asparagus  are always to be dressed in this manner when to be served in the second course; but for first course dishes, throw them into some good
 sauce  tournee, well reduced. Boil them a few times over a large fire, then powder a little  sugar,  and make a thickening of one  egg.  The  sauce  must be made thick, on account of the  asparagus  always yielding a certain quantity of  water,  which will thin the  sauce.  
 

 

  1062.--EGG PLANT. 

Cut the  egg  plant in slices half an inch thick, and let it lie for several hours in  salted water,  to remove the bitter taste. To fry it put the slices in the frying-pan with a small quantity of  butter,  and turn them when one side is done, Be sure that they are thoroughly cooked. Stuffed  egg  plant is sometimes preferred to fried. Peel the plant whole, cut it in two, and let it lies in  salted water.  Then scoop out the inside of the plant, chop it up fine, mixing crumbs of  bread,   salt  and

 

 butter  with it; fry it, return it to the hollow
 egg  plant, join the cut pieces together, and let them bake awhile in an oven. The best way of cooking is to slice them, dip the slices into  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  and fry very brown in  butter   or  lard.  
 

 

  1063.--SALSIFY OR OYSTER
PLANT. 

Scrape the  salsify,  cut it in long slips and parboil it, then chop it up fine and fry it with  egg batter.  

 It is sometimes served with the roots whole, having been first thoroughly boiled and then fried in  egg batter.  
 

 

  1064.--CAULIFLOWER DRESSED LIKE MACCARONI. 

Boil a  cauliflower  in  milk  and  water,  with a little  butter,  half an hour, skimming well; when tender, drain, and divide it small; put a quarter of a pound of  butter,  half as much  grated cheese,  half a gill of  milk,  in a pan to boil up, and put in the sprigs of  cauliflower -- stew five minutes; then put it into a dish, grate over it as much more  cheese,  and brown it with a shovel. 

 To dress  Cauliflowers,  separate the green part, and cut the flower close to the bottom from the stalk; let it soak an hour in clear  cold water,  and then lay it in boiling  milk  and  water,  or  water  alone, observing to skim it well. When the flower or stalk feels tender, it is done enough, and should be instantly taken up. Drain it for a minute, and serve it up in a dish by itself, with plain melted  butter  in a  sauce -tureen. 
 

 

  1065.--SPINACH. 

Pick it clean, and wash it in five or six waters. Drain it, and put it in  boiling water.  Ten minutes is generally sufficient time to boil  spinach.  Be careful to remove the scum. When it is quite tender take it up, and drain and
squeeze it well. Chop it fine, and put it into a saucepan with a piece of
 butter  and a little  pepper  and  salt.  Set it on hot
 coals,  and let it stew five minutes, stirring it all the time. 
 

 

  1066.--TURNIPS. 

 White turnips  require about as much boiling as  potatoes . When tender, take them up, peel and mash them--season them with a little  salt  and  butter.  Yellow  turnips  require about two hours boiling--if very large, split them in two. The tops of  white turnips  make a good salad. 
 

 

  1067.--BEETS. 

 Beets  should not be cut or scraped before they are boiled, or the  juice  will run out, and make them insipid. In summer they will boil in an hour--in winter, it takes three hours to boil them tender. The tops in summer are good boiled for greens. Boiled  beets  cut in slices, and put in cold spiced venegar for several days, are very nice. 
 

 

  1068.--PARSNIPS AND
CARROTS. 
Wash them, and split them in two-- lay them in a stewpan, with the flat side down, turn on  boiling water  enough to cover
them--boil them till tender, then take them up, and take off the  skin,  and  butter  them. Many cooks boil them whole, but it is not a good plan, as the outside gets done too much, before the inside is cooked sufficiently. Cold boiled  parsnips  are good, cut in slices and fried brown. 
 

 

  1069.--SEA-KALE 

Requires to be very well done; there is little occasion to fear doing it too much; tie in bundles after washing and trimming, boil it in equal parts of  milk  and  water,  and serve it with melted  butter.  

 It may be laid on  toast  or not, according to taste. 

 

 After being well boiled it must be thoroughly drained before laying upon the  toast;  five-and-twenty minutes will be found sufficient to boil it. Or, after being drained, it can be put in a stewpan and stewed in a rich  gravy.  
 

 

  1070.--TO STEW
CELERY. 

Wash the  heads,  and strip off their outer leaves; either halve or leave them whole, according to their size, and cut them into length of four inches. Put into a stewpan with a cup of  broth  or weak  white gravy;  stew till tender; then add two spoonfuls of  cream,  a little  flour  and  butter,  seasoned with  pepper,   salt,   nutmeg,  and a little pounded  white sugar;  and simmer all together. 

  Or: --Parboil it, cut it into quarters, fry it, and serve it on a napkin, or with  beef gravy.  

  Celery  is a great improvement to all soups and  gravies,  and much used as a  white sauce,  either alone or with  oysters.  
 

 

  1071.--SAUER KRAUT. 
Or  Sour-Kraut,  is a German preparation of
 cabbage,  fermented in layers, between which  salt  is laid, and the whole pressed closely down with weights for a few days, at the end of which it becomes acid, and the greater part of the  juice  is drawn off. 

 In preparing it, the outward leaves and the stalk are removed, the latter being sliced, and the whole  cabbage  cut into small pieces, which are pressed heavily down, and placed in barrels in a warm cellar until the fermentation is over; when that is complete, put the kraut into a cool place, and it will re-main good for years. Some people think it improved by a mixture among the layers of  caraway,  whole  pepper,  and
juniper- berries,  or to have the barrels smoked with the latter. 

 It is extensively used throughout the northern parts of Europe, as a
pleasant vegetable, particularly with  salted meats  and  sausages;  and is considered so excellent an antiscorbutic that it is largely employed in our navy. It requires nothing but care in the making; and, when properly prepared, may be served at any gentleman's table. Boil it for two hours, and skim the  water,  or change the  water  for  gravy,  and stew it. 
 

 

  1072.--TO SERVE
SOUR-KRAUT. 

Take out as much sour-kraut as you wish from the cask, and soak it for at least two hours in  cold water,  then take it into a colander to drain; put it into a large stewpan or dinner-pot put on it a piece of  corned pork  or  bacon,  and put  hot water  over nearly to
cover it; cover the pot and set it over a moderate fire for an hour or more until the  pork  is done. Serve with the  meat  on it. Or cut the  bacon  or  pork  in slices, strew  pepper  over them; lay the sour-kraut on, put  hot water  nearly to cover it, cover the pot close and set it over a moderate fire for an hour and a half. Or it may be boiled with  water,  and fried  sausages  put over it and served; or the  sausages  may be boiled with it, and the  skins  taken off, before serving. 
 

 

  1078.--ARTICHOKES. 

Out away the outside leaves and make the stalk as even as possible, put them into  boiling water  with some  salt;  if they are very young they will be tender in half an hour, if rather old they will require an hour before they are thoroughly tender; drain and trim the points of the leaves, serve with melted  butter.  

 They are better for being kept two or three days. 

 The bottoms are sometimes added to ragouts or  meat  pies. 

 If dried you must soak them well for some time, then stew them in some
good

 

second  stock  until tender; take up the  artichokes  and reduce the  stock,  add to it a little  brown sauce  seasoned with  pepper,   salt,  and  sugar,  a few  green peas  in the middle of each or alternately, some scooped
 turnips  boiled, and put into each; glaze the  artichokes  before you add those to them;  sauce  in the dish. 

  For Salad .--The  artichokes  should be very young, the choke having scarcely formed, clean them and let them soak thoroughly, drain them, take off the stalks close and even, and send them to table with the vegetables to form the salad. This is a favorite mode in Paris of dressing them. 
 

 

  1074.--JERUSALEM
ARTICHOKES. 

Pare them after being well washed, very smooth and of some kind of shape, boil them in  milk  and  water,  pay great attention to them, as, if not taken up the minute they are soft, they will break; they are served up with various kinds of sauces,  white  and brown, or fried in
 butter,  and dished upon a napkin with fried  parsley.  
 

 

  1075.--FRENCH
BEANS. 

When very young the ends and stalks only should be removed, and as they are done thrown into  cold spring water  when to be dressed put them in  boiling water  which has been salted with a small quantity of  common salt;  in a quarter of an hour they will be done; the criterion is
when they become tender; the saucepan should be left uncovered, there should not be too much  water,  and they should be kept boiling rapidly. 

 When they are at their full growth, the ends and strings should be taken off and the  bean  divided lengthways and across, or according to the present fashion slit diagonally or aslant. 

 A small piece of  soda,  a little larger than a good-sized  pea,  if put into the  boiling water  with the  beans,  or with any vegetables, will  preserve  that beautiful green which it is so desirable for them to possess when placed upon the table. 
 

 

  1076.--FRENCH BEANS Á LA MAITRE D'HÔTEL. 

Prepare your  beans  as for boiling; put into a
stewpan a piece of  butter,  shred  parsley,  and  green onions;  when the  butter  is melted add the  French bean s, turn them a few times over the fire, shake in some  flour,  and moisten with a little good  stock  well seasoned; boil till the  sauce  is consumed, then put in  yolks of three eggs,  beat up with some  milk,  and add a little  vinegar.  Cullis of  veal gravy  may be used instead of the  eggs.  

 They may be fricasseed with a teacupful of  gravy,  and two spoonfuls of  cream  thickened with  butter  and  flour.  
 

 

  l077.--BAKED
BEANS. 

Soak a quart of dried  beans  over night, in  cold water;  drain off the  water  in the morning and stew for half an hour in a little  water,  put them in a deep dish, with one pound of  salt pork,  cut the  rind  in strips, and place in the centre of the dish. The  pork  should be sunk a little below the surface of the  beans . Bake for three hours and a half. A lump of  saleratus  should be thrown in while the  beans  are boiling, and a pint of  water  be added, when they are put into the bake-pan. 
 

 

  1078.--LIMA BEANS. 

Should be gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of
 cold water,  and then boil them about two hours, till they are quite soft. Drain them well, and add to them some  butter.  
 

 

  1079.--SUCCOTASH 

Ismade by boiling young  lima bean s with  green corn  cut from the cob. A  slice of  fat pork  may be
boiled with it, and the mixture must have a lump of  butter  stirred in before serving. The  beans  should be boiled before the  corn  is added, as
they take longer to cook. 
 

 

  1080.--PONE OF SWEET
POTATO. 

To three pounds of  sweet potatoes  grated, add a pound of  butter  and a pound of  sugar,  with six  eggs,  a
tea-cup of  sour cream  or  buttermilk,  and a teaspoonful of  soda.  Bake in a buttered dish, and serve hot. 
 

 

  1081.--SQUASHES OR
CYMBELINS. 

Cut up the  squashes  in pieces of an inch thick,
having first pared the  squash;  if old,  extract  the  seeds 
and boil the pieces until they break, mash them with a spoon, boil them a
little longer, and when they are done, squeeze them through a colander. Mix them with a little  salt  and a small quantity of  butter.  
 

 

  1082.--WINTER
SQUASH. 

Winter  squashes  are stewed in the same manner as
others, but they require to remain over the fire a little longer. 

 If kept in a dry place, they will remain good all winter; but if they are once frozen, they lose their flavor, and are apt to decay. 

 They are richer and firmer than the summer kind. After paring a winter
 squash,  cut it in pieces, and, having taken out the  seeds,  boil it till it is tolerably soft in a small quantity of  water.  When you think it sufficiently done, press out all the  water,  mash the  squash,  and add a little  butter,   salt,  and, if you fancy it,  pepper.  
 

 

  1083.--SWEET
CORN. 

 Corn  is much sweeter to be boiled on the cob. Put a little  salt  into the  water,  and put in the  corn  when it is cold. It requires boiling from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to its age. 
 

 

  1084.--GREEN CORN
PUDDING. 

Twelve  ears  of green  corn,  grated a quart of  milk,  four ounces  butter,  the same of  sugar,  four  eggs  beaten light. Bake in a buttered dish, and eat with  butter  and  sugar sauce.  The  corn  may be previously boiled, when the pudding will bake more quickly. 
 

 

  1085.--GREEN CORN
OMELET. 

Grate the  corn  from twelve ears of corn boiled, beat up five  eggs,  stir them with the  corn,  season with  pepper  and  salt,  and fry the mixture brown, browning the top with a hot shovel. If fried in small cakes, with a little  flour  and  milk  stirred in to form a batter, this is very nice. 
 

 

  1086.--GREEN CORN
FRITTERS. 

Six  ears  of boiled  corn,  grated, two  eggs,  a little  milk,  and just enough  flour  to mix it. Drop a spoonful of the batter into a frying-pan, and fry in  butter.  
 

 

  1087.--ONIONS. 

It is a good plan to boil  onions  in  milk  and  water,  it diminishes
the strong taste of that vegetable. It is an excellent way of serving up
 onions,  to chop them after they are boiled, and put them in a stew-pan, with a little  milk,   butter,   salt,  and  pepper,  and let them stew about fifteen minutes. This gives them a fine flavor, and they can be served up very hot. 
 

 

  1088.--TOMATOES. 

If very ripe, will  skin  easily; if not, pour scalding  water  on them, and let them remain in it four or five minutes. Peel and put them into a stew-pan, with a tablespoonful of  water,  if not very juicy; if so, no  water  will be required. Put in a little  salt,  and stew them for half an

 

hour; then turn them into a deep dish with  buttered toast.  Another way of cooking them, which is considered
very nice by epicures, is to put them in a deep dish, with fine  bread crumbs,   crackers  pounded fine, a layer of each alternately; put small bits of  butter;  a little  salt  and  pepper  on each layer-- some cooks add a little  nutmeg  and  sugar.  Have a layer of  bread crumbs  on the top. Bake it three-quarters of an hour. 
 

 

  1089.--SCOLLOPED
TOMATOES.  

Scald ripe  tomatoes  and peel them; put them in a dish
with  bread crumbs,  layer over layer,  seasoning  with  salt 
and  red pepper.  Have the  bread crumbs  on the top, and bake three hours. 
 

 

  1090.--TOMATOES, TO
STUFF. 

Take some fine  tomatoes  and scoop the inside out, which
should be set aside until required. Chop or mince fine some  beef,   mutton,  or other fresh under-done  meat,  mix with a little  pepper,   salt,  and a little  sweet herbs;  or make a  forcemeat,  and mix with the scoopings of the  tomatoes;  form into a good consistence, and stuff the inside of the vegetable with the mixture. Set the prepared vegetables in a dish with a little  lard  in a slow oven, and bake until tender; then serve with the liquor that exudes during the process; but if not brown enough, color by means of a salamander held over the top of each. 

 A good rich  beef gravy  poured over all, improves the flavor very much. This is the best way to dress these vegetables, and serves also to make  cold meat  more palatable, in addition to forming a pretty and economical side dish. 
 

 

  1091.--GUMBO 

Two quarts fresh  ochras,  the same of ripe  tomatoes  scalded and peeled; put them in a pan to melt with  butter,   pepper  and  salt;  strain through the colander, and dish the  jelly,  to eat with  toast.   
 

 

  1092.-- HOPPING JOHN (A CAROLINA DISH.) 

This is made by boiling a kind of small  bean,  called  cowpeas  at the South, with an equal quantity of  rice,  and sending them mixed and hot to the table. 
 

 

  1098.--SPLIT-PEAS
PUDDING. 

Take any quantity, say one pint, of yellow  split peas;  allow them to remain in  water  the whole night before you wish to use them; after which take them out and put them into a cloth so loose as to allow the  peas  to swell; boil them for four hours, or until they are quite tender, then rub them through a colander, so as to render them perfectly smooth; add to the  pulp  a lump of  butter  and some  salt.  After being well mixed put the  peas  again into a cloth, tie tightly, and boil for about half an hour. Pour over it melted  butter.  

 A richer pudding may be made if two well-beaten  eggs  are added along with the  butter.  It is served with boiled  pork.  
 

 

  1094.--STEWED
BEANS. 

Boil them in  water  in which a lump of  butter  has been placed,  preserve  them as  white  as you can, chop a few  sweet herbs  with some  parsley  very fine, stew them in a pint of the  water  in which the leaves have been boiled, to which a quarter of a pint of  cream  has been added; stew until quite tender, then add the  beans,  stew five minutes, thicken with  butter  and  flour.  
 

 

  1095.--BEANS, PUREE OF,
WHITE. 

Chop some  onions  and fry them lightly in a little  butter  and  flour,  and moisten with a teaspoonful of  broth;  let the  onions  be done; boil the  beans  in this for half an hour, season them well,

 

use brown  pepper,  and strain them through a tammy; reduce the puree over a brisk fire, take off the  white  scum, and before you serve refine it with a bit of fresh butter and two spoonfuls of thick  cream,  garnish it with  fried crust of bread;  this may be made brown by frying the  onions  brown. 
 

 

  1096.--TO PRESERVE PEAS FOR WINTER USE.  *  

Shell, scald, and dry them: put them on tins or earthen dishes, in a cool oven, once or twice, to harden. Keep them in  paper  bags hung up in the kitchen. When they are to be used, let them lie an hour in  water;  then set them on with  cold water  and a bit of  butter,  and boil them till ready. Put a sprig of  dried mint  to boil with them. 

 Appert's method.--Have the  peas  gathered when ripe, for if too young they will be watery and not fit to keep. The  peas,  when shelled, should be put into strong jars or open-mouthed bottles, and shaken, so as to make them sit closely to gether. This done, the jars must be very tightly corked and tied down. The jars are then placed upright in a bain-marie, or any iron pot large
enough to contain them, with hay placed between each, to prevent collision and breakage; the pot is filled with  cold water  up to the  neck  of the jars, placed upon the fire, and allowed to boil for an hour and a half if in cool moist weather, but for two hours if it be hot and dry. The jars should not be taken out of the pot until the  water  be comes cold. 

  French bean s and  asparagus  may be preserved in the same manner; they maintain their color, but lose much of their flavor, and require a little  sugar  to improve it. 

 The bellow note appeared at the end of page 387 in the original
text. 

 *As practised in the kitchen of the Emperor of
Russia. 

 

 

  1097.--HARICOT
ROOTS. 

Pare three  turnips,  and scrape two or three good-colored  carrots,  about two dozen  button onions,  a  head of celery;  cut out with a scoop-cutter sufficient car rots and  turnips  to pair the  button onions;  lay them for a few minutes in  boiling water,  keep all your roots in wa ter until all is done, cut your  celery  to correspond as to size with the other roots; when done blanch them, then strain them off, return them into the stewpan, and put to them some good brown  stock;  boil them until reduced to nearly a glaze, then add some  brown sauce  to them,  sugar,   pepper,  and  salt,  do not stir with a spoon to mash the roots, which should be quite perfect. 
 

 

  1098.--WHITE HARICOT
BEANS.--(Spanish Receipt.) 

Take a pint of  beans,  pour a quart of
 boiling water  upon them and let them re main in soak until the next day; cut a  lettuce  in four pieces and put it with the  beans  in some fresh
 hot water,  throw in a small fagot of   parsley,  and a slice of  ham,  boil them until the whole are tender. 

 Chop up some  onions,  with a  clove of garlic,  fry them and then put them into a stewpan, put the  beans  to them with a well beaten  egg  and some  spice,  heat them and send them to table. 
 

 

  1099.--BEET-ROOTS. 

Cut in equal-sized slices some  beet root,  boiled or baked, of a good color, make it hot between two plates in the oven, dish it as you would cutlets, round; make a good piquant  sauce,  boil some  button onions white  and tender, throw them in the middle of the dish with the  sauce;  or, boil simply, and serve the slices with melted  butter.  
 

 

  1100.--FRENCH WAY OF DRESSING COLD BEET-ROOT. 

Take your cold  beet-root --chop it very small and put it in a saucepan to heat, with a little  cream;  immediately before

 

serving, put in a spoonful of  vinegar  and a little  brown sugar;  serve hot. 
 

 

  1101.--BROCCOLI AND BUTTERED EGGS. 

Keep a handsome bunch for the middle, and have eight pieces to go round;  toast  a piece of broad to fit the inner part of the dish or plate: boil the  broccoli.  In the mean time have ready six (or more)  eggs  beaten, put for six a quarter of a pound of fine  butter  into a saucepan, with a little  salt,  stir it over the fire, and as it becomes warm add the  eggs,  and shake the saucepan till the mixture is thick enough; pour it on the hot  toast,  and lay the  broccoli  as before directed. This receipt is a very good one, it is oc casionally varied, but without improve ment, the dish is however nearly obsolete. 
 

 

  1102.--CABBAGE--TO
BOIL. 
Nick your  cabbage  in quarters at the stalk, wash it thoroughly clean, put it into  boiling spring water  with a handful of  salt  and a small piece of  soda,  boil it fast, when done strain it
in a colander, press it gently, cut it in halves and serve. Savoys and greens may be boiled in the same manner, they should always be boiled by themselves. Should the cab bage be left, it may be chopped, put into a saucepan with a lump of  butter,  and  pepper,  and  salt,  and made hot and sent to table. 

 Small, close cabbages laid on a stone floor, before the frost sets in, will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks' keeping. 
 

 

  1103.--STEWED
WATER-CRESS. The following receipt may be new, and will be found an agreeable and wholesome dish:--Lay the cress in strong  salt and water,  to clear it from insects. Pick and wash nicely, and stew in  water  for about ten minutes; drain and chop, season with  pepper  and  salt,  add a little  butter,  and return it to the stewpan until well heated. Add a little  vinegar  first before serving: put around it sippets of  toast  or  fried bread. --The above made thin, as a sub stitute for  parsley  and  butter,  will be found an excellent covering for a boiled  fowl.  There should be more of the cress considerably than of the  parsley,  as the flavor is much milder. 
 

 

  1104.--MUSHROOMS. 

The  mushrooms  proper to be used in cookery grow in the open pasture land, for those that grow near or under trees, are poisonous. The eatable  mushrooms  first appear very small, and of a round form, on a little stalk. They grow very rapidly, and the upper part and stalk are  white. 
As they increase in size, the under part gradually opens, and shows a fringed fur of a very fine  salmon  color, which continues more or less till the  mushroom  has gained some size, and then turns to a dark brown. These marks should be attended to, and likewise whether the  skin  can be easily parted from the edge, and middle, and whether they have a pleasant smell. Those which are poisonous have a yellow  skin,  and the under part has not the clear flesh color of the real  mushroom;  besides which, they smell rank
and disagreeable, and the fur is  white  or yellow. 

 In Stewing, if you wish to have the full taste of the  mushroom  only, after washing, trimming, and peeling them, put them into a stewpan with a little  salt  and no  water.  Set them on  coals,  and stew them slowly till tender, adding nothing to them but a little  butter  rolled in  flour,  or else a little  cream.  Be sure to keep the pan well covered. 
 

 

  1105.--BROILED
MUSHROOMS. 

Pare some large open  mushrooms,  leaving the stalkson, paring them to a point; wash them well, turn them on the back of a drying sieve to drain. Put into a stewpan two ounces of  butter,  some

 

chopped  parsley,  and shalots, fry them for a minute on the fire; when melted place your  mushroom  stalks upwards on a saute pan, then pour the  butter  and  parsley  over all the  mushrooms;   pepper  and  salt  them well with  black pepper,  put them in the oven to broil; when done put a little good  stock  to them, give them a boil, and dish them, pour the liquor over them, add more  gravy,  but let it be put in hot; an hour and a quarter before it is done add four table-spoonfuls of  red wine  and the
 liver;  serve very hot.  

 

  1106.--LETTUCES AND
ENDIVES 

Are better, I think, only cut into pieces or into quarters, and dished neatly round; but they must be done in some good  stock  and not put into the thick  sauce,  but when you take them out after being done, you will press and form them, then boil down their liquor to a glaze, which will, when added to your already thick  sauce,  give the desired
flavor; glaze the quarters before dishing them, pour the  sauce  under and round. 
 

 

  1107.--TURNIPS,
WHOLE. 

Pare several large  turnips,  scoop them out with an iron cutter for the purpose, throw them in  water  as you cut them, when done blanch them, then strain them off, if for  white  add bechamel to them; if for brown,  brown sauce;  season as before. 
 

 

  1108.--PUREE OF
TURNIPS. 

Pare and cut up several  turnips  into slices, put themon to boil in  milk  and  water  until tender, strain them on the back of a sieve, throw away the liquor, and rub through the  turnips; 
when done put them into a stewpan with a piece of but ter, a spoonful of
 flour,  a gill of  cream,  a little  sugar,   salt,  and  cayenne pepper.  
 

 

  1109.--TRUFFLES. 

The  truffle,  like the  mushroom,  is a species of fungus common in France and Italy. It grows about eight or ten inches below the surface of the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much used in cooking. Being dug out of the earth, it requires a great deal of washing and brushing before it can be applied to culinary purposes. When washed, the  water   should be warm and changed fre quently; it loses much of its flavor when dried. 

  Truffles  with Champagne.--Take ten or twelve well-cleaned  truffles,  put them into a stewpan on rashers of  bacon,  add a  bay leaf,  a seasoned bouquet, a little grated  bacon,  some slices of  ham,  some  stock,  and a bottle of  champagne;  cover them with a piece of buttered  paper,  put on the lid, and set the stewpan in hot  ashes,  put fire on the top, and let them stew for an hour; when done drain them on a clean cloth, and serve on a folded napkin. 

 To keep them.--After opening a fresh bottle and not requiring them all, return them into the bottle, filling up the bottle with some boiled
 sherry,  cork them down until wanted again. 
 

 

  1110.--MORELS. 

The morel is a kind of  mushroom,  and for a ragout or garnish they are prepared as follows:--take the largest morels, take off their stalks and split them in two or three pieces, wash and put them into a basin of  warm water  to free them from the sand and earth, then blanch and drain and put them into a stewpan with a piece of  butter  and  lemon juice,  give them a turn and moisten with  white  or  brown sauce.  They should be dried slowly, put in  paper  bags, and kept in a dry place. 
 

 

  1111.--SIDNEY SMITH'S RECEIPT FOR SALAD. 

Two large  potatoes,  passed through kitchen
sieve, Unwonted softness to the salad give. 

 

Of ardent  mustard  add a single spoon-- Distrust the condiment which bites so soon: But deem it not, thou man of  herbs,  a fault To add a double quantity of  salt;  Three times the spoon with  oil  of Lucca crown, And once with  vinegar,  procured from town. 

 True flavor needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two
well-boiled  eggs.  

 Let  onion  atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And, lastly, on the flavored compound toss A magic teaspoon of  anchovy sauce.  

 Then, though green  turtle  fail, though  venison 's tough, And  ham  and  turkeys  are not boiled
enough, Serenely full the Epicure may say,-- Fate cannot harm me--I have dined today! 
 

 

  1112.--CHICKEN
SALAD. 

Mince the  meat  of two cooked  fowls,  with a little  ham  or  tongue;  cut up fine a nice  lettuce head;  put it in a dish, with the  chicken  in the centre; for the dressing, take the  yolks of four eggs  beaten, two teaspoonfuls of  mixed mustard,  two table-spoonfuls of  vinegar,  and four of  oil,  half a teaspoonful of  Cayenne pepper : boil the mixture, and when cold pour it over the  chicken,  and ornament it with sliced  white of egg  and of  beets.  
 

 

  1113.--SALAD DRESSING FOR
LETTUCE. 

Two  hard-boiled eggs,  the  yolks  mashed with four teaspoonfuls of  sweet oil,  a saltspoon of  salt,  and a
teaspoonful of  mustard,  with two table-spoonfuls of  vinegar.  Add the  lettuce  cut up fine, and mince the  white of egg  to throw over it. 
 

 

  1114.--SALADS. 

Coss- lettuce  and blanched endive make the best salad, the green leaves being stripped off, and leaving nothing but the close,  white hearts,  which, after being washed and placed for an hour or two in  cold water,  should be wiped quite dry. To this should be added a  head  or two of  celery,  a couple of
 anchovies  (which are far preferable to the essence), and several  chives,  or young  onions,  all cut small, while the lettuces should
be di vided lengthwise into quarters, and cut into rather large pieces. 

  The mixture or dressing. --For four persons bruise only the  yolk  of one  hard-boiled egg  (leaving out altogether the  white ), with some  salt,  arid make it into a  paste  with two large teaspoonfuls of 
 moûtarde de maille;  or, if obliged to use common  mustard,  add to it a drop or two of asafoetida, which will impart to it a slight flavor of  garlic.  Then add  oil  and  vinegar  in the following proportions, without using so much as to make the  sauce  thin, and taking care to have the finest Provence or Lucca  oil,  and the very strongest species of real  French vinegar : namely, to every  one  spoonful of  vinegar  add  two  of  oil;  one spoonful of the  vinegar  being impregnated with  chilis,  which will add warmth to the salad, much more agreeably than cayenne. A little  tarragon  may be an improvement, and a spoonful of Quihi or  walnut ketchup  is not objectionable; but  mushroom ketchup  will destroy the pun gency of flavor, and both may be left out without inconvenience. 

 When this is done, mix the  sauce  well, but lightly, with the salad, to which a few slices of boiled  beet-root,  and the  white of the egg  sliced, will be a pretty addition. 

 The excellence of a salad consists in the vegetables being young and fresh, and they should be prepared only a short

 

time before they are wanted; the salad mixture being either poured into the bottom of the bowl or sent up in a saucetureen, and not stirred up with the vege tables until they are served. 

 In summer salads the mixture must not be poured upon the  lettuce  or vege tables used in the salad, but be left at the bottom, to be stirred up when want ed, as thus preserving the crispness of the  lettuce.  

 In winter salads, however, the reverse of this proceeding must be adopted, as thus: the salad of endive,  celery,   beet,  and other roots being cut ready for dress ing, then pour the mixture upon the in gredients, and stir them well up, so that every portion may receive its benefit. 

 In doing this, it should likewise be re collected that the spoon and fork should always be of wood, and of sufficient size to stir up the vegetables in large quantities.  *  

 The below note appeared at the end of chicken salad (english) in the original text. 

 *As a substitute for  egg  in salad, rub down a dessert-spoonful of a mashed  potato with mustard  and  salt,  and some  cream  or thick melted  butter,  which answers for  oil  when that is not at hand; then add the  vinegar.  
 

 

  1115.--CHICKEN SALAD.
(English.) Pull the  meat  off the  bones,  put it into a small pan with a shalot cut in thin slices, a few sprigs of  parsley,  and
a ta ble-spoonful each of  oil  and  tarragon vinegar;  season the  chicken  well with  pepper  and  salt;  let it soak for about three hours. Boil three  eggs hard,  cut them in four pieces lengthways;
chop two  anchovies,  six  olives,  and a dessert spoonful of  capers;  take three lettuces, reserve the small  hearts  to garnish with, cutting them in four, shred fine the other leaves, that are  white,  and cut roughly some small salad; put a layer of salad on the dish, then the  chicken,  sprin kle the chopped  anchovy,  &c., then more salad and  chicken  until you have used up the whole of your materials; then mask it with a thick Mayonnaise  sauce : garnish it round the bottom with
the  lettuce-hearts  and  eggs  alternately. This salad is much improved if the dish can be placed on pounded ice whilst it is being prepared. 

 The remains of  veal  and  white  poultry, when minced and left cold, instead of being fricasseed, will thus be found an excellent addition to the dinner of a summer's day, with added slices of cu cumber. 
 

 

  1116.--CHICKEN
SALAD. 

Boil a  chicken  that weighs not more than a pound and a half. When very tender, take it up, cut it in small strips, and make the following  sauce,  and turn over it--boil four  eggs  three minutes-- then take them out of the shells, mash and mix them with a couple of table-spoonfuls of  olive-oil,  or melted  butter,  two-thirds of a tumbler of  vinegar,  a tea-spoonful of  mixed mustard,  a
teaspoon-ful of  salt,  a little  pepper,  and essence of  celery,  if you have it--if not, it can be dispensed with. In making  chicken  salad, the dressing should not be put on till a few minutes before the salad is sent in; as by lying in it, the  chicken  and  celery  will become  hard.  
 

 

  1117.--SALAD OF
FOWL. 

Proceed as for that of  game,  so far as the  eggs  and the salad are concerned; then have a  chicken,  which has been previously plain roasted, or in vegetables, and cut it into ten  neat  pieces, put it into a basin, season with a teaspoonful of  salt,  quarter ditto of  pepper,  two table-spoonfuls of  oil,  one of
 vinegar,  one on ion sliced, and a few sprigs of chopped  parsley;  mix them well, and let them remain for a few hours, if time will per mit. Take the pieces of  chicken,  and place in a dish with salad, as directed for grouse, with the  sauce,  &c., and serve. 

 

 Nothing is better for ball-suppers than these kind of dishes; they may be made of all kinds of solid  fish,  and the  sauce  is excellent; any kind of  cold meat,  cut in slices, dressed round with the  sauce  over, may be served for supper or lunch eon. It may be served with the same  sauce  or dressing as for  lobster  salad; or make the following one, which differs a little:--Put into a middle-sized, round-bottomed basin,
the  yolk of two eggs,  half a spoonful of  salt,  quarter of one of  pepper,  half a one of  sugar,  ditto of fine chopped  onions,  ditto of  parsley,  tarra gon, or  chervil  stir with the right hand with a wooden spoon, while you pour some  oil  out of the bottle by keeping your thumb on its mouth, so that it runs out very slowly; when a few spoonfuls are in it, it will become quite stiff; pour also, by degrees, a few spoonfuls of vine gar, and so on until you have made enough for your salad; try if the flavor is good and relishing; as the quality of these two last ingredients vary so much, I must leave it to your palate and correct judgment. If you should fail at first, try again until you succeed, and I am certain you will be delighted with the result; it ought to be made in a cold place, particularly in summer. Great taste should be observed in the decora tion of the border, for which you should see the "Gastronomic  Regenerator." 
 


 

  1118.--FISH SALADS. 

All  fish  salads are made from the re mains of  fish  from a previous dinner, especially turbot and  salmon;  but for fil lets of  soles  they must be dressed thus: --When filleted, melt an ounce of  butter  in a sautepan, lay the fillets in, season with  pepper  and  salt,  and the  juice  of half a  lemon;  saute them on a slow fire until done,
which may be from four to five minutes, and put by to get cold; cut in
middle-sized pieces and use as  lobster.  
 

 

  1119.--MAYONNAISE. 

The following receipt is contributed to "The Practical Housekeeper" by Mr. Delmonico, proprietor of the well-known establishments at the Irving House and at the corner of Beaver and William streets, New York.] 
 In a middle-sized dish placed in cracked rice, put the  yolks  of two fresh  eggs,  a little  salt,  some  white pepper,  and some  vinegar  a Pestragon. Stir this mixture briskly with a wooden spoon, and as soon as it begins to thicken, mix in gradually a table-spoonful of  oil  and a little  vinegar,  taking care to beat the  sauce  against the sides of the dish. On this repeated beating depends the whiteness of the  sauce  Mayonnaise. In propor tion to the bulk add  oil  and  vinegar  together, putting in but little at a time. As it comes nearer perfection it grows thick and strong-bodied. When finished add a squeeze of  citron  and some drops of  water.  This  sauce  is delicious for  chicken  salad--mayonnaise de volaille-- and serves for all kinds of
 fish  and poultry. 
 

 

  1120.--LOBSTER
SALAD. 

Take out the  meat  of the claws and body, cutting it into small pieces, and micing it with the  lettuce  or endive; but previously separate the soft part of the  fish  adhering to the shell, with the red
spawn of the  hen-lobster,  and blend them with the materials prepared for the dressing. It will perhaps require a little more pungency of flavor, which can be imparted by a small additional quantity of  chili  or tarrogon  vinegar.  

  Crab,  or shrimps, may be used in the same manner; and a great improvement in either will be found by throwing in a portion of  savory calf 's- foot jelly,  divided into pieces. 

 Although shell- fish  are very decidedly the best mixture to be put into this salad, yet any sort of firm  fish,  which

 

have been dressed, and partly left cold, may also be prepared in a similar way. 
 

 

 

 PICKLES AND STORE-ROOM  SAUCES. 
 Although meat, when cured and dried, is called "pickled," yet in that
operation salt alone is employed as brine, while in the pickling of vegetables,
of which we are about to treat, the means chiefly used is vinegar. 
 In the making of all sorts of pickles, salads, and sauces, in which vinegar
is employed, it is of much importance to have it of the strongest quality, as
well as of the best flavor. If the flavor of chilis, capsicums, tarragon,
eschalots, gar lic, or any root, is wished to be imparted to the vinegar, it is
only necessary to put a portion of either (say one oz.) into a bottleful of the
liquid; cork it closely, and in a very few weeks it will be found thoroughly
impregnated with the pecu liar taste; then strain it off, and fill the bottle
up again, as it will answer for more than once. The flavor of any herb will
also be communicated by boiling it for a short time in the acid; as well as a
few fruits, the flavor of which is very de licious when imparted to
vinegar. 
 Pickles should be made at home, as both cheaper and better. The pickles
should be kept either in glass bottles, or in stone or unglazed jars, as the
vinegar, or even soured vegetables, will corrode the glazing of the jars,
which, being made from lead, is poisonous. Use saucepans lined with earthenware
or stone pipkins to boil your vinegar in. If you are com pelled to use tin, do
not let your vinegar remain in it one moment longer than ac tually necessary;
employ also wooden knives and forks in the preparation of your pickles. Fill
your jars three parts full with the articles to be pickled, and then add
vinegar up to the neck of the jar or bottle. 
 When greening, keep the pickles cov ered down, or the evaporation of the
steam will injure the color; a little nut of alum may be added to crisp the pic
kles, but it should be very small in pro portion to the quantity, or it will
give a disagreeable flavor. 
 If any symptoms appear of the pickles becoming mouldy, boil the vinegar
again, adding a little more spice; keep them also close stopped, as exposure to
the air makes the pickle soft. 
 
  1121.--TO PICKLE
ONIONS. 
 Silver Sort. --Choose small  button onions,  as
near of a size as possible; throw them into  warm water,  which will
prevent their affecting the eyes so much, while peeling them. As they are
peeled, throw them into a strong  brine of salt and water,  with a small
bit of  alum;  let them remain in this till the next day, then put them on
the fire, and boil them in it for a minute. Or, as they are peeled, throw them
into  milk  and  water;  drain them from this when they are all done,
put them into a jar, and pour the  brine  on them boiling hot; cover them
close, and set them aside till the next day; drain and dry them in a cloth; put
them into  cold vinegar,  with a few blades of bruised  ginger,  some
whole  pepper,  and, if approved, a little  mace  and sliced
 horseradish;  keep them always well covered with  vinegar;  cork the
jar close, and put it in a cool dry place. 
 
 Full-grown Sort. --Peel and slice large
 onions,  and sprinkle them with  salt.  To every gallon take about a
dozen capsi cums, either dry or green, slicing only a part; add a few
 cloves,  some  pepper  and  allspice,  all whole. Put the
 onions  into jars, distribute the  spices  pretty equally among
them, fill up the jars with  vinegar,   and
set them in a pan of  cold water  over the fire, taking care that they are
closely tied down with a bladder: keep a wet cloth over them to prevent the
bladder from bursting. In about an hour and a half the  onions  will be
soft enough. 
 
  Onions  and  Cucumbers.  --To every dozen
of  cucumbers  put three large  onions,  cut both in thick slices,
and sprinkle  salt  over them. Next day drain them for five or six hours,
then put them into a stone jar, pour boiling  vinegar  over them, and keep
them in a warm place. Repeat the boiling  vinegar,  and stop them up again
instantly, and so on till green; the last time put  pepper  and
 ginger;  keep in stone jars. The  vinegar  is very good for winter
salads. 
 
 
  1122.--GARLIC
PICKLE. Steep one quarter of a pound of  ginger  in strong
 salt and water  for five days, then cut it into slices and dry it in the
sun; put it into a large stone jar with a gallon of the best  white-wine
vinegar.  Peel one pound of  garlic,   salt  it well, and let it
stand in the  salt  three days; wipe it, and dry it in the sun, then put
it into the  pickle;  add also a quarter of a pound of  long pepper 
steeped in  salt and water  and well dried, one pound of
 mustard-seed  bruised, and a quarter of a pound of  turmeric.  Shake
these ingredients well in the jar, and add any thing that it is desirable to
 pickle  as it comes into season, salting and drying them previously in
the sun. When completed, the  pickle  should be kept a year or two be fore
it is used. 
 
 Shalots  may be pickled in the same way; or if put,
as we have already stated, in a bottle of  cold vinegar,  their flavor
will be imparted to it in the course of a month. 
 
 
  1128.--CUCUMBERS. 
 If full-grown,  the small long sort are the best for
pickling. Let them be fresh-gathered; pull off the blossoms, but do not rub
them; pour over them a strong  brine of salt and water  boiling hot, cover
them close, and let them stand all night. The next day stir them gently to take
off the sand, drain them on a sieve, and dry them on a cloth; make a
 pickle  with the best  white-wine vinegar,   ginger, 
 pepper  (long and round), and a little  garlic.  When the
 pickle  boils throw in the  cucumbers,  cover them, and make them
boil as quickly as possible for three or four minutes; put them into a jar with
the  vinegar,  and cover them closely; when cold, put in a sprig of
 dill,  the  seed  downward. They will be exceedingly crisp and green
done in this manner; but if they do not appear to be of a fine color, boil up
the  pickle  the next day, and pour it boiling on the
 cucumbers.  
 
 
  1124.--MUSHROOMS. 
 To  pickle Mushrooms White.  --Take the very
small buttons, clean and rub them with a flannel, then put them into cold
distilled  vinegar,  and allow it to come to a boil very slowly; drain and
lay them in a cloth till cold, and then put them into fresh distilled
 vinegar.  If very small, they should not be allowed to boil, as so strong
a heat might destroy them. It will, therefore, be sufficient to warm them; and
when dried, they may be again put into the  vinegar  in which they had
been originally placed, after it has been cooled. As to  spice,  a little
 mace  will improve their flavor, but no hot  pepper  should be used.
Those which are red underneath, may also be used; but those which are black are
too old, and only fit for broiling or to make  ketchup.  
 
 To  pickle Mushrooms  Brown. --Choose them
older, but see that they be fresh, and of a nearly pink color underneath;
clean, and sprinkle them with  salt,  put them in layers, and let them
stand for a  couple of days; then add some whole
 pepper,  cover them very close, and put them into an oven when
 bread  is baking. That done, take them out, strain off the liquor, into
which put  cloves,   mace,  and  allspice,  and let the whole
boil for a little while. While that is doing, put the  mushrooms  into the
stewpan for a short time, then take the whole off the fire, and when perfectly
cold pot them, with the addition of a little  vinegar.  
 An excellent way to 
  preserve  the flavor of  mushrooms  when being
pickled,  is, to rub them with a bit of flannel and  salt,  and from
the larger take out the red in side; when they are black they will not do,
being too old. Throw a little  salt  over, and put them into a stewpan
with some  mace;  as the liquor comes out, shake them well, and keep them
over a gentle fire, till all of it be dried into them again; then put as much
 vinegar  into the pan as will cover them, give it one warm, and turn all
into a glass or stone jar. They will keep two years, and are delicious. 
 
 
  1125.--MUSHROOM
POWDER. Wash a half peck of large  mushrooms  while quite fresh,
and free them from dirt and grit with flannel; scrape out the black part clean,
and do not use any that are worm-eaten; put them into a stewpan over the fire
without  water,  with two large  onions,  some  cloves,  a
quarter of an ounce of maces, and two spoonfuls of  white pepper,  all in
powder; simmer and shake them till all the liquor be dried up, but be careful
they do not burn. Lay them on tins or sieves, in a slow oven, till they are dry
enough to beat to powder; then put the powder in small bottles corked and tied
closely, and keep in a dry place. 
 A teaspoonful will give a very fine flavor to any soup or  gravy,  or
any  sauce.  It is to be added just before serving, and one boil given to
it after it is put in. 
 
 
  1126.--TO PICKLE
WALNUTS. Gather the  walnuts  when tender, and put them in  salt 
and water: prick each with a needle several times; let them stand two or
three days, changing the  water  every day. Make a  brine of salt and
water  strong enough to  bear  an  egg;  it must be quite cold
before being used, and be well skimmed while boiling. To every hundred
 walnuts  allow one gallon of  water.  Let the  walnuts  soak six days,
then change the  brine,  and let them stand six more; then drain them, and
expose them to the sun that they may turn black; pour over them, in a jar, a
 pickle  of the best  white-wine vinegar,  with a good quantity of
 pepper,   pimento,   ginger,   mace,   cloves, 
 mustard-seed,  and  horseradish,  all boiled together, but cold. To
every hundred  walnuts  allow six spoonfuls of  mustard-seed,  with an
ounce of whole  black pepper,  and two or three  heads of garlic  or
shalot, but the latter is least strong; let them be quite covered with
 vinegar.  This done, they will be good for several years, if closely
covered. The air will soften them. They will not, however, be fit to eat under
six months. 
 
 
  1127.--TO PICKLE
RADISH-PODS. Gather the  radish -pods when they are quite young,
and put them into  salt and water  all night; then boil the  salt and
water,  and pour it over the pods in jars, and cover them closely to keep in
the steam. When the  brine  is cold boil it, and pour it hot upon the pods
again, repeating the process until they are green; then put them in a sieve to
drain, and make a  pickle  for them of  white-wine vinegar, 
 mace,   ginger,   long pepper,  and  horseradish;  pour it
boiling hot upon the pods, and when nearly cold boil it again, and pour it over
them. When cold, tie down the jars. 
 
 
  1128.--TO PICKLE FRENCH
BEANS. Gather them before they become 
stringy, and, without taking off the ends, put them into a very strong
 brine  until they become yellow; drain the liquor from them, and wipe
them dry with a cloth. Put them into a stone jar by the fire, put in a little
bit of  alum,  and pour boiling  vinegar  upon them every twenty-four
hours, preventing the escape of the steam. In four or five days they will
become green. Boil a little  mace,  whole  pepper,  and  ginger 
in the  vinegar.  
 Do 
 samphire  the same way. 
 
 
  1129.--NASTURTIUMS So
much resemble  capers,  both in flavor and the mode of pickling, as to be
frequently used in the same manner; the  seeds  should be allowed to get
ripe after the buds and flowers have gone off. Gather them upon a dry day, and
keep them for a few days after they have been gathered; put them into a jar,
and pour boiling  vinegar  well spiced upon them; when cold, cover the
jar. They will not be fit for use for some months, but will be finely flavored
after keeping, and are sometimes preferred to  capers,  for which they are
an excellent substitute, being useful also in serving up all dishes in which
 pickles  are warmed with the  gravy.  Young red  capsicums  and
 elder -flowers before they open may be done in the same way. 
 
 
  1180.--TO PICKLE RED
CABBAGE. Take those of a deep red or purple color, strip off the outer
leaves and cut out the stalk; quarter the  cabbage  lengthwise and cut it
crosswise, but not in very thin slices; put it into a sieve and sprinkle it
with  salt  and  saltpetre;  let it drain for twenty-four hours, then
squeeze it until it is very dry; make a  pickle  with sufficient
 vinegar  to cover the cabbages well, and made with equal quantities of
 cloves  and  allspice,  with a little  mace --to be put in
whole, to which if a very small quantity of  cochineal  be added, it will
greatly improve the color; boil the  vinegar  and  spices  together
for full five minutes, and strain it; then, having put the  cabbage  into
a stone jar, pour the  vinegar  over it boiling hot. 
 This is opposed to the practice of some persons, who object to boiling the
 vinegar,  and pour it cold upon the  cabbage.  
 
 
  1131.--CABBAGE, WHITE,
PICKLED. Slice your  cabbage  thin, then lay it in  salt 
for twenty-four hours; strain it very dry, then put it in a stone jar with
 allspice,   mace,  and  vinegar,  and pour it on boiling hot,
tie it very close, repeat the  vinegar  three times, and it will be fit
for use. 
 
 
  1182.--CABBAGE, PURPLE, TO
PICKLE. Take two  cauliflowers,  two red cabbages, half a peck of
 kidney beans,  stick with six  cloves of garlic  on each stick, wash all
well; give them one boil up, then strain them in a sieve, lay them leaf by leaf
upon a large table and  salt  them with  coarse salt;  then lay them
to dry in the sun, or in a slow oven, until as dry as cork. 
 
 
  1188.--CELERY, TO
PICKLE. Separate the stalks from the  head,  clean them
thoroughly, and put them into  salt and water  strong enough to
 bear  an  egg;  let them remain in this for a week or ten days, or
until wanted to  pickle;  then take them out, wash them well in c lean
water,  drain dry, place in a jar, and pour boiling  vinegar  over, to
which any ap proved  spices  may have been added. As is usual for pickling
keep it well covered with  vinegar;  if the  celery  is allowed to
remain a long time in  salt and water,  it will be necessary to soak it in
c lean water  for a day or two, changing the  water 
occasionally. 
 
 
  1184.--TO PICKLE
CAULIFLOWERS. Take the closest and whitest  cauliflowers   you can get and pull them in bunches, and spread
them on an earthen dish, and lay  salt  all over them, let them stand for
three days to bring out all the  water,  then put them in earthen jars,
and pour  boiling salt  and water upon them, and let them stand all
night, then drain them on a hair sieve, and put them into glass jars, and fill
up your jars with  vinegar,  and tie them close down with leather. 
 
 
  1135.--PICKLED
TOMATOES. The  tomatoes  should not be 
 very  ripe. 
 Mix in a large stone jar, one ounce of  mustard,  and half the same
quantity of  cloves  and  black pepper,  and fill the jar half full
of the best  vinegar.  Lay in the  tomatoes,  mixing with them a
dozen or more whole  onions.  
 The jar should not be opened for a month, when the  pickles  will be
fit for use; great care must be taken to close the jar well whenever
 pickles  are taken out. This done, they will keep a year. 
 
 Another. --Take a peck of ripe  tomatoes,  prick
them with a fork, and lay them in a jar with layers of  salt.  Let them
remain eight days in  salt;  then take them  oat  and put them for
twenty-four hours in fresh  water  with a little  vinegar.  
 Take them out, press them gently, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Slice
twelve large  onions,  or more smaller ones. Put a layer of the
 tomatoes  in a stone jar, and cover them with a layer of slices of
 onion.  Over this strew  mustard,   allspice,   black
pepper,  and  cloves --all but the  cloves  ground fine. Then
place on the mass another layer of  tomatoes,  with another of sliced
 onions  and the  mixed spices.  Place the layers alternately till
the jar is filled. Then pour over it the best  vinegar,  filling the jar,
and cover closely. The  pickles  will be fit for use in ten days. 
 
 
  1136.--TO PICKLE
LEMONS. Take the finest with the thickest  rind  you can get, cut
them deeply from end to end in more than one place, but not quite through, and
fill the incisions with  salt;  put each on end, and lay them in a dish
near the fire, or in the sun if the weather be hot, to dissolve the
 salt,  and repeat this during three weeks; then put them into a jar, with
a handful of  white mustard-seed  if it be large, one-quarter to
one-half a pound of bruised  ginger,  half that quantity of  cloves 
and  allspice,  a few  chilis,  and a very little  turmeric; 
boil in  vinegar,  and pour it upon the  lemons  when cold. It was
originally prepared by the cook of the first Earl of Orford. 
 Some people, however, add to it either shalot or  garlic.  It can
hardly be ready in less than six months, but will keep for many years. 
 For 
  limes,   or very small  lemons,  the same
method must be pursued, only they will not require above half the time. 
 
 
  1137.--MANGOES. Out a
piece off the top or side of young mush- melons,  and remove the
 pulp  and  seeds;  tie on the pieces green them, and fill the inside
with grated  horseradish,   spices,   cloves,   ginger, 
 mustard-seed,   onion  or  garlic,  and slices of the core of
 cabbage.  Tie on the pieces again, pour on them scalding  vinegar, 
four days in succession, and keep them in covered jars. 
 Mangoes may be made of  peaches.  
 Observe that there be plenty of  vinegar,  as  pickles  are
spoiled if not well covered. Large  cucumbers,  called "green turley,"
prepared in the same way, are excellent, and are sooner fit to be eaten. 
 The greater number of times boiling  vinegar  is poured over either
sort, the sooner it will be ready. 
 
 
  1138.--MIXED PICKLE. To
one gallon of  vinegar  put four  ounces of
 ginger  bruised, two ounces of  white pepper,  two of
 allspice,  two of  chilis,  four of  turmeric,  one pound of
 mustard-seed,  one-half pound of shalots, one ounce of  garlic,  and
one-half pound of  coarse salt.  Boil all together except the
 mustard-seed,  which must be added afterwards. Then mix very smoothly
one-quarter of a pound of 
  made mustard   with some of the  vinegar, 
when cold, in a basin, and add it to the remainder with the  seed.  Take
 broccoli,   radish -pods,  French bean s, or any other
vegetables or small  fruit  5 blanch the vegetables, lay them on a sieve,
and sprinkle a little  salt  over them to draw out the  water.  Let
them stand in the sun till very dry, then pour the  vinegar  boiling over
them, slicing in some  horseradish  if approved. 
  Pickle  of this kind can be rendered hot at pleasure, by additions of
 chilis, green  and red  capsicums --which, when gathered young, add
exquisite flavor-- and all sorts of foreign  peppers.  As the spring
advances, a portion of every small root produced in a garden, if collected and
thrown into  cold vinegar,  till it can be conveniently made into a
regular  pickle,  will be found most excellent, at no greater expense than
the cost of the  spice  and  vinegar,  and the trouble of mixing
it. 
 
 
  1139.--INDIA PICKLE Is
made in nearly the same manner. Put two hundred  gherkins,  three pints of
small  onions,  one quart of  nasturtiums,  one ditto of
 radish -pods, one quart of  French bean s, six  cauliflowers, 
and two  hard white  cabbages sliced, into a pan, and sprinkle them with
 salt,  the  onions  having been previously peeled and laid in
 salt and water  for a week to take off their strength. Then, after a day
or two, take them out of the pan and dry them thoroughly in a warm place in the
shade: they must be spread out separately. To two gallons of  vinegar  put
one and a half ounces of  allspice,  the same of  long pepper  and of
 white,  and two of  ginger,  tied up in muslin bags. When cold, mix
with the  vinegar  one and a half pounds of  flour of mustard,  and
two table-spoonfuls of  cayenne pepper.  Boil it well together, and pour
it on the  pickle : the vegetables mentioned, not being all procurable at
the same time, may be added separately, at different periods, but they must all
undergo the salting and drying process. 
 In choosing those vegetables some discrimination may also be used: when in
season, few things add a higher flavor to the  pickle  than the buds and
flowers of the  elder.  
 
 
  1140.--PLUMS, TO PICKLE LIKE
OLIVES. Take the  plums  before they are quite ripe, and put them
into a saucepan with some  white wine vinegar,   salt water, 
 fennel seed,  and  dill,  as much of each as will impart a flavor to
the  pickle;  when it boils put in the  plums,  let it boil again,
then take it off, let it stand till cold, then put them into jars. 
 
 
  1141.--QUINCE, TO
PICKLE. Pare and cut half a dozen  quinces  into small pieces,
and put them with a gallon of  water  and two pounds of  honey  into
a large saucepan, mix them together well, and set them on a slow fire for half
an hour, strain the liquor into a jar, when quite cold wipe the  quinces 
perfectly dry, and put them into it; cover them very close. 
 
 
  1142.--PEACHES AND
APRICOTS. Take those of a full growth, but perfectly green. Put to a
gallon of  vinegar  half an ounce of  cloves,  the same quantity of
 peppercorns,  sliced  ginger  and  mustard-seed --add
 salt  and boil the  vinegar --then turn it on the  peaches 
scalding hot.  Turn the  vinegar  from them
several times. Heat it scalding hot, and turn it back while hot. 
 
 
  1143.--TO PICKLE GREEN
PEPPERS. The  peppers  must be pickled when half ripe, and the
smallest ones chosen. Make a small hole at the top and another at the bottom of
the  pepper,  and  extract  the core and  seeds.  A penknife
should be used in performing this operation. Simmer the  peppers  for a
whole day in  salt and water  over a very moderate fire--stir them every
once and awhile that those at the bottom may not burn. Leave them over night to
cool, and the next morning lay them gently into a jar, sprinkle a small
quantity of  mustard  over them, and fill up the jar with  cold
vinegar.  
 
 
  1144.--BUTTERNUTS. The
 nuts  for pickling should be gathered as early as July. When a pin will
go through them easily, they are young enough to  pickle.  Soak them in
 salt and water  a week--then drain it off. Rub them with a cloth, to get
off the roughness. To a gallon of  vinegar  put a teacup of  salt,  a
tablespoonful of powdered  cloves  and  mace,  mixed together, half
an ounce of  allspice,  and  peppercorns.  Boil the  vinegar 
and  spices,  and pour it hot on the  nuts.  In a week scald the
 vinegar,  and pour over them again. They will be fit for use in a
fortnight. 
 
 
  1145.--TO PICKLE GHERKINS AND
KIDNEY BEANS. Put the  beans  and  gherkins,  dried with flannel,
in  salt and water  that will  bear  an  egg,  leave them till
quite yellow, stirring every day. Then put them in a brass kettle with
 cabbage leaves  under and around them, so that they do not touch the
brass. Put in one third  vinegar  and two of  water,  put a leaf
over, and cover close, so as to confine the steam. Put them on a slow fire, but
do not let them boil. Change the leaves as often as they grow yellow. When
green, take out the  pickles,  and put them on a dish to cool and dry.
Boil the  vinegar  with a spoonful of  black pepper,  and one of
bruised  ginger  to a quart; throw it boiling over the  pickles,  and
cover them closely in small jars. 
 
 
  1146.--BARBERRIES. Barberries make very good
 pickles,  and are always useful in ornamenting certain dishes. Leave the
barberries on the stem, lay them in a stone jar and fill it up with  cold
vinegar.  
 
 
  1147.--GRAPES. Cut
them, when hardly ripe, in bunches, put them in a jar with  vine leaves 
between each layer of  grapes  until the jar is filled; then take as much
 spring water  as will cover the  grapes  and the leaves. As it heats
put in as much  salt  as will make a  brine  sufficiently strong to
 bear  an  egg,  you may use  common salt : when it boils skim
it, strain it through a flannel bag and let it stand to settle; by the time it
is cold it will be quite settled; strain it a second time through a flannel
bag, then pour it into a jar upon the  grapes,  which must be well
covered; fill the jar with  vine leaves,  then tie it over with a double
cloth and set a plate upon it; let it stand for two days, then take off the
cloth, pour away the  brine,  then take out the leaves and the
 grapes,  and lay them between two cloths to dry, then take two quarts of
 vinegar,  one quart of  spring water,  and one pound of coarse
 sugar,  boil it for a short time and skim it very clean as it boils; let
it stand till it is quite cold. Wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay some fresh
 vine leaves  at the bottom between every bunch of  grapes  and on
the top; then pour and strain the  pickle  on the  grapes,  fill the
jar, let the   pickle  be above the
 grapes,  tie up a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the
 grapes  to keep them under the  pickle,  tie them down with a
bladder, and over that a leather, always keeping the  grapes  under the
 pickle.  
 
 
  1148.--APPLE CODLINGS, TO
PICKLE. Gather the codlings when of the size of a large double
 walnut;  take a pan and make a thick layer of  vine leaves  at the
bottom; put in the codlings and cover them well with  vine leaves  and
 spring water,  and put them over a slow fire till they are sufficiently
tender to pare the  skins  with ease with a small sharp knife, put them
into the same  water  with  vine leaves  as before; cover them close,
and set the pan at a short distance from the fire until they are of a fine
green, then drain them in a colander till they are cold; put them into jars
with some  mace  and a  clove  or two of  garlic,  according to
the quantity of the  apples,  and cover them with distilled
 vinegar;  pour over  mutton fat,  and tie them down with a bladder
and leather very tight. 
 
 
  1149.--ARTICHOKES
PICKLED. Boil the  artichokes  till you can pull the leaves off;
take out the choke and cut away the stalk, be careful that the knife does not
touch the top; throw them into  salt and water;  when they have lain an
hour take them out and drain them, then put them into glasses or jars, and put
a little  mace  and sliced  nutmeg  between; fill them with
 vinegar  and  spring water,  cover your jars close. 
 
 
 VINEGARS. 
 
  1150.--VINEGAR FOR INDIA
PICKLE. Prepare a gallon of  vinegar,  more or less, according to
the quantity of  pickles  to be done, in the following manner:-- 
 Mix gradually one-quarter of a pound of the best  flour of mustard, 
and two ounces of powdered  turmeric,  with some of the  cold
vinegar  at first, to ensure its being properly mixed; then add the rest,
with one-quarter of a pound of  white mustard-seed.  Bruise one-quarter
of a pound of  ginger,  two ounces of  white pepper,  and one ounce
of  chilis,  and tie them in a muslin bag. Boil the whole gently for
twenty minutes or half an hour, and pour it whilst boiling on the
 pickles,  having previously drained off the  vinegar  they were
first put in. In ten or twelve days repeat the boiling, pour it over the
 pickles  whilst boiling hot, and they will be ready for use when
cold. 
 
 
  1151.--WALNUT
VINEGAR. Put green  walnut-shells  into a  brine of salt and
water  strong enough to  float  an  egg;  let them lie covered in
this ten or twelve days; take them out, and lay them in the sun for a week; put
them into a jar, and pour boiling  vinegar  on them; in about a week or
ten days pour off the  vinegar,  make it boiling hot, and pour over them
again. In a month it will be fit for use, and will be found excellent to eat
with  cold meat,  and particularly useful in making sauces. 
 
 
  1152.--CUCUMBER
VINEGAR. Pare and slice fifteen large  cucumbers,  and put them
in a stone jar, with three pints of  vinegar,  four large  onions 
sliced, two or three shalots, a little  garlic,  two large spoonfuls of
 salt,  three teaspoonfuls of  pepper,  and half a teaspoonful of
 cayenne.  After standing four days, give the whole a boil: when cold,
strain, and filter the liquor through  paper.  
 
 
  1153.--CAMP
VINEGAR. Slice a large  head of garlic,  and put it into a
wide-mouthed bottle, with half an ounce of  cayenne,  two teaspoonfuls
of  real soy, two of  walnut ketchup,  four
 anchovies  chopped, one pint of  vinegar,  and enough  cochineal 
to give it the color of  lavender-drops . Let it stand six weeks; then
strain off quite clear, and keep in small bottles sealed up. 
 
 Another: --Infuse in a quart of the best
 white-wine vinegar,  a quarter of a pint of  walnut ketchup,  the
same quantity of  mushroom ketchup,  and the same quantity of soy, half an
ounce of  cayenne,  four  heads of garlic,  ten shalots, two ounces
of black and two ounces of  white pepper,  the same quantity of
 pimento  and  ginger,  one ounce of  nutmeg,  three blades of
 mace,  and ten  cloves,  in a wide-mouthed, two-quart bottle; and
cover very closely with cork, leather, and bladder. Let it remain near the fire
a month, shaking it frequently. When any is taken out, put in as much fresh
 vinegar.  This is not only a very fine  sauce,  but a great
preservative against infectious diseases, if taken freely. 
 
 
  1154.--NASTURTIUM
VINEGAR. Pick full-blown  nasturtium flowers;  fill a
wide-mouthed bottle with them; add half a  clove of garlic  and a
moderate-sized chalot chopped; pour as much  vinegar  as the bottle will
take; in two months' time rub the whole through a fine sieve; add a little
 cayenne pepper  and  salt.  
 
 
  1155.--TARRAGON AND ELDER-FLOWER
VINEGAR. Take either the young leaves of  tarragon  when the
plant is going into bloom, or the  buds of elder -flowers, and to every
half peck put one gallon of  vinegar,  leaving it for a fortnight in a jug
to ferment. Then drain it through a flannel bag, put into it a small bit of
dissolved  isinglass,  and bottle it. 
 The flavor of the  herbs  may also be extracted by boiling the
 herbs  or leaves in  vinegar,  without fermentation: a mixture of
both is very agreeable. 
 
 
  1156.--RASPBERRY
VINEGAR. To one quart of common  vinegar  put two quarts of fresh
 raspberries;  let them stand twenty-four hours; then drain them off, but
do not squeeze them. Put in two quarts more, let them stand as before, and this
must be repeated a third time. After which, put the  vinegar  into a jar,
measure it, and to every pint put one pound of lump- sugar.  Set the jar
up to the  neck  in  boiling water,  and let the  vinegar  boil
for ten minutes, stirring it frequently. There should on no account be fewer
 raspberries  than the proportion mentioned, and the  vinegar  will
not be fit for use until the following summer. 
 
 
  1157.--SUGAR
VINEGAR. To every gallon of  water  put two pounds of coarse
 brown sugar.  Boil and skim this. Put it to cool in a clean tub; when
about lukewarm, add a slice of  bread  soaked in fresh  yeast. 
Barrel it in a week, and set it in the sun in summer or by the fire in winter,
for six months, without stopping the bung-hole; but cover it with thin canvass
or an inverted bottle to keep out the flies. 
 
 
  1158.--CIDER
VINEGAR. Put a pound of  white sugar  to a gallon of  cider 
and shaking them well together, let them ferment for four months; a strong and
well--colored  vinegar --will be the result. 
 
 
  1159.--FLAVORED
VINEGARS. These are a cheap and agreeable addition to sauces, hashes,
&c. For one, infuse a hundred red  chilis,  fresh gathered, into a
quart of good  vinegar;  let them stand ten days, shaking the bottle every
day. A half ounce of  cayenne  will answer the same purpose. This is good
in melted  butter  for  fish sauce,  &c. 
 
 
  1160.--CELERY
VINEGAR. Pound a half ounce of  celery seed,  and  steep it for ten days in a quart of  vinegar;  strain
and bottle it. 
 
 
  1161.--HORSERADISH
VINEGAR. Pour a quart of strong  vinegar,  boiling hot, on three
ounces of scraped  horseradish  and a teaspoonful of pounded  black
pepper,  and half the quantity of  cayenne.  Let it stand four days,
tightly covered, then strain and put it in the cruet for use. It is good on
cold  roast beef,  and excellent in the  gravy  for chops,
 steaks,  &c. 
 
 
  1162.--GOOSEBERRY
VINEGAR. Boil  water,  and when cold put to every three quarts
one quart of bruised  gooseberries  in a large tub. Let them remain sixty
hours, stirring often; then strain through a hair bag, and to each gallon of
liquor add one pound of the coarsest  sugar.  Put it into a barrel, and a
 toast  and  yeast;  cover the bung-hole with a bit of slate. Set the
barrel in the sun, observing that the cask be well painted, and the iron hoops
all firm. The greater the quantity of  sugar  and  fruit,  the
stronger the  vinegar;  and as this is particularly useful for
 pickles,  it might be well to make it of double the strength for that
purpose. 
 
 
  1168.--CHILI
VINEGAR. Fill a bottle with the  chilis  or
 capsicums --each of which will impart the proper warmth of flavor--and
cover them with  vinegar;  cork it up closely, let it stand for three
weeks or a month, then pour off the  vinegar,  and fill up the bottle
again:  chilis  are the most commonly used, but good  capsicums  will
flavor several additions of  vinegar,  If  capsicums  are not
procurable, put one ounce of  cayenne pepper  to a quart of
 vinegar,  and let it stand some time, shaking it occasionally. Then
strain it off, and fill the bottle up again. 
 
 
 
  1164.--LEMON FLAVORING FOR
PUDDINGS. Peel six  lemons  very thin indeed; put the peel into a
glass bottle, and add a table-spoonful of  bitter almonds, blanched, or
the same quantity of  peach  or  apricot kernels.  Cover the whole
with  brandy;  shake it frequently, and in a month strain it, and if kept
closely corked it will keep for years. 
 
 
  1165.--MUSHROOM
KETCHUP. Take the full-grown flaps of freshly-gathered
 mushrooms,  crush them with the hands, throw a handful of  salt 
into every peck, and let them stand a night or two; then put them into pans,
and set them in a quick oven for twelve hours; strain them through a hair
sieve, and press out all the  juice.  To every gallon of liquor put of
 cloves,   Jamaica  and  black pepper,  and  ginger,  one
ounce each, and half a pound of  common salt.  Set it on a slow fire, and
let it boil until half the liquor is wasted; then put it into another vessel,
and, when cold, strain and bottle it; at the same time corking it up closely,
and covering the cork with oiled  paper.  
 
 or: --Take the largest  broad mushrooms,  break
them into an earthen pan, strew  salt  over, and stir them now and then
for several days, till there is a thick scum over: strain and boil the liquor
with  Jamaica  and  black peppers,   mace,   ginger,  a
 clove  or two, and some  mustard  a  seed.   Cayenne
pepper  is too hot, but a very little  chili vinegar  is an
improvement. When cold, bottle it, and secure the corks as above, leaving the
 spice  in. At the end of three months strain the liquor and boil it with
fresh  spice,  which put into the bottles; and in a cool place it will
keep two or three years. 
 We strongly recommend the addition of a moderate quantity of 
  port wine  -- from half a pint to not quite a
pint to every four quarts--both as greatly improving  the flavor of the  ketchup  and ensuring its better
preservation. 
 With regard to the 
  spice,   care should be taken not to allow it
to overpower the natural flavor of the vegetable. 
 
 
  1166.--WALNUT
KETCHUP. Thoroughly bruise one hundred and twenty young
 walnuts ; put to them three-quarters of a pound of  fine salt  and a
quart of  vinegar;  stir them every day for a fortnight; then strain;
squeeze the liquor from them through a cloth; add to this one ounce of whole
 black pepper,  forty  cloves,  half an ounce of  nutmeg 
bruised, half an ounce of  ginger,  and a few blades of  mace.  Boil
the whole for half an hour; strain and bottle it for use. 
 
  Walnut Ketchup  of the finest quality --Boil or
simmer a gallon of the expressed  juice of walnuts  when they are tender, and
skim it well; then put in two pounds of  anchovies,   bones,  and
liquor, ditto of shalots, one ounce of  cloves,  ditto of  mace, 
ditto of  pepper,  and one  clove of garlic.  Let all simmer till the
shalots sink; then put the liquor into a pan till cold; bottle and divide the
 spice  to each. Cork closely, tie the bladder over, and put it in small
bottles. 
 It will keep twenty years in the greatest perfection, but is not fit for use
the first year. Be very careful to express the  juice  at home, for it is
generally adulterated if bought. 
 
 Irish mode: --Take a few hundred green
 walnuts,  scoop out all the  whites,  beat them in a mortar, and
strain the  juice  through a cloth; let it stand a day and night, strain
it, and pour it off clear. To one pint of this liquor put half a pint of
 vinegar  with half a pound of  anchovies,  and to each pint thus
made a  clove  or two of  garlic,  two or three shalots, some
 horseradish,  and one  onion  cut in quarters; boil it two hours,
and then strain it off. When strained add to every pint of liquor half a
quarter of an ounce of  mace,  the same quantity of  cloves, of
nutmeg,  and of whole  black pepper,  half a pint of  port wine, 
and two table-spoonfuls of soy. Boil them together for half an hour. Then pour
it off into an earthen jar, and let it remain covered until it is cold; bottle
it off into clean dry bottles, distributing the  spice  equally in each;
cork it down closely; take care in boiling to keep the saucepan covered. 
 
 
  1167.--CUCUMBER
KETCHUP. Take an equal quantity of large  cucumbers  and large
 onions,  pare and slice them; throw over them a handful of  salt, 
and let them stand all night in a sieve placed over a pan. Take the liquor and
boil it up. with a quarter of a pound of  anchovies  to every dozen of
 cucumbers,  one pint of  white wine,  a  nutmeg,  a quarter of
an ounce of  mace,  and half an ounce of whole  pepper;  strain it,
and when cold bottle it; tie it down with bladder. It will keep for two
years. 
  
 The Suffolk Receipt. --Take a dozen well-grown
 cucumbers  and four large  onions,  slice them into an earthen pan
with a good handful of  salt;  let them stand till the liquor begins to
run, break them into small pieces, and let the whole stand another day and
night: then strain it off; to every quart put the same quantity of
 white,  but not  sweet wine,  half a pound of  anchovies,  and
a large stick of  horseradish;  boil them together for half an hour, then
strain it again, and to every quart put a quarter of an ounce of  white
pepper,  half the quantity of  mace  and  nutmeg,  all pounded,
and boil it well again. When cold, bottle it with the  spice,  and put a
piece of  ginger  into each bottle, A tablespoonful in a sauceboatful of
 cream  or melted  butter  makes delicious  white sauce  for
 fowls  or made dishes of  veal.   
  
 
  1168.--TOMATO
KETCHUP. Take two dozen of ripe  tomatoes  and a handful of
 salt;  slice the  tomatoes,  and put a layer into a jar, sprinkle
 salt  over it, then another layer of  tomatoes  and  salt,  until the
jar is full. Stir the contents now and then for three or four days, keeping the
jar in a warm place by the fire; at the expiration of which time press the
 juice  from the  tomatoes  by rubbing them with a wooden spoon through a
sieve, and boil it with  mace,   pepper,   allspice, 
 ginger,  and  cloves,  in the proportion of about two ounces in all
to one quart of  juice,  a few blades of  mace,  twelve
 cloves,  a spoonful of pounded  ginger,  and the remainder
 pepper  and  allspice.  In three months boil it again with fresh
 spice.  
 
 
  1169.--TOMATO SAUCE FOE WINTER
USE. One peck of  tomatoes,  six  onions  sliced, two
 heads of celery,  a dozen shalots, one ounce of  cayenne pepper, 
half an ounce of  black pepper,  one ounce of  mace  in powder. Slice
them into a well-tinned saucepan, mixing the  seasoning  with them as they
are cut up; boil, keeping them well stirred; when thoroughly soft, drain off
the  water,  and rub through a hair sieve. Boil it again until it is as
thick as  apple-sauce  Put it into bottles, and cork close. Put the
bottles into a stew-pan, fill it with  cold water,  and let it boil for
twenty minutes. Keep in a cool place. Examine the bottles occasionally, and if
there is the least indication of a change turn it into the kettle again, boil
and skim it, keeping it well stirred from the bottom that it may not adhere,
and put it into the bottles again. When required for use, warm what is wanted
with a little  gravy.  It is as nice as when fresh done, and will be found
excellent with  calf 's  head  or  brains,   veal, 
 beef,   mutton,   pork,  or  goose.  An  onion  or a
shalot, boiled in the  gravy  with which it is mixed, will be an
improvement. 
 
 
  117O.--CAMP
KETCHUP. Take two quarts of old strong  beer  and one of  white
wine,  add a quarter of a pound of  anchovies,  three ounces of shalots
peeled, half an ounce of  mace,  the same of  nutmeg,  three large
races of  ginger  cut in slices; put all together over a moderate fire
till one third is wasted. The next day bottle it with the  spice  and the
shalots. It will keep for many years. 
 
 Or: --A pint of claret, the same quantity of
 ketchup,  four ounces of  anchovies,  one ounce of fresh
 lemon-peel  pared thin, two  cloves of garlic  minced fine, half
an ounce of  allspice,  the same of black and of  red pepper,  one
drachm of  celery-seed  bruised, and half a pint of  pickle -liquor.
Put these ingredients into a wide-mouthed bottle; stop it close, shake it every
day for a fortnight, and then strain it off. 
 
 
  1171.--SEVEN-YEARS'
KETCHUP. Take two quarts of the oldest strong  beer,  put to it
one quart of  red wine,  three-quarters of a pound of  anchovies, 
three ounces of shalots peeled, half an ounce of  mace,  the same of
 nutmegs,  quarter of an ounce of  cloves,  three large races of
 ginger  cut in slices, and boil all together over a moderate fire till
one-third is wasted. When quite cold put it into a large jar, covered up, and
leave it there for a week or two until the sediment is wasted, and the clear
liquor is perfectly transparent; then strain it through a fine hair sieve,
taste it, and add to it a little of any  essence of spice,   oil,  or
 vinegar,  which you think may improve it, and, if the liquid be not
lucidly clear, give it one  smart  boil: let it rest till cool, and bottle
it in very small bottles to prevent its frequent exposure to the air. 
 It will improve by age, and may be carried on a voyage round the world. 
 As may also 
  Sauce  à la Militaire,  made thus:-- Put
into an earthen pot six shalots sliced, a  clove of garlic  split, two
laurel-leaves, a handful of  thyme,   basil,  and
 tarragon -leaves, half an ounce of  mustard-seed  bruised, one
teaspoonful of grated  Seville orange -peel, quarter of an ounce of
 cloves,  the same quantity of  mace,  half an ounce of  long
pepper,  two ounces of  salt,  the  juice of a lemon,  six
spoonfuls of the strongest  vinegar,  and half a pint of  white
wine.  Stop the pot very closely, and put it into an oven, or upon hot
 ashes,  for twenty-four hours, to allow the whole to infuse properly.
Then allow it to settle, and strain it until it is quite clear: bottle it, and
close the bottles tightly: a very small quantity will be sufficient, and it may
be used with all sorts of  meat,   game,  or  fish.  
 
 
  1172.--ARTIFICIAL SAUCES FOR
FISH. Those most commonly used are soy and  anchovy,  merely
mixed from the cruets into melted  butter  by each individual of the
company; the  butter,  when brought to table in a prepared state, should
be made as follows:-- 
 
 For  Anchovy Sauce,   the foundation should be
some of the  fish stock  or  gravy  which has been already made and
kept in the house for future use. Take two or three  anchovies,  scrape,
but do not wash them, and boil them along with a minced shalot in some of the
 gravy,  until they are soft enough to be pounded to a  paste.  Then
strain the  gravy  and thicken it with the body of the  fish,  after
having removed the  heads,  tails, and  bones.  When that is done,
put it, for about a quarter of an hour, in the stew-pan along with a glass of
 red wine,  a squeeze of  lemon,  and the necessary quantity of
 butter.  
 The 
 common mode  is, to chop three  anchovies,  melt
a quarter of a pound of  butter  in a teacupful of the  water  in
which the  fish  is boiled, add a spoonful of  vinegar,  and a little
 flour.  Stir it well over the fire until it is quite thick. 
 
 Or: --Not unfrequently two or three spoonfuls of the
prepared  essence of anchovy  are put into the melted  butter, 
seasoned with a little  cayenne pepper.  
 The  savory  store sauces for  fish,  as prepared and sold in the
shops, are all to a certain degree agreeable to some palates, but 
  anchovy   and 
 soy  seem the prevailing sort for  fish.  
 
 
  1173.--STORE SAUCES. 1.
Take two  wine -glasses of port, two of  walnut  and four of  mushroom ketchup,  four  anchovies  pounded, with two shalots, a table-spoonful
of soy, and a tea-spoonful of  cayenne pepper.  Boil all well together;
when cold, put it into bottles well corked; it will keep good for more than a
twelvemonth. 
 2. Take half an ounce of  mace,  one ounce each of  cloves, 
 ginger,  and  allspice,  one pound of  anchovies,  a bottle of
either  white  or  red wine,  half a pint of  vinegar,  a couple
of shalots and a  clove of garlic  chopped, and a stick of scraped
 horseradish,  together with a bundle of pot- herbs.  Let all simmer
over a slow fire till the  anchovies  are dissolved; then strain the
liquor, bottle it when cold, and when wanted for use add a table-spoonful of
the  sauce  to quarter of a pound of melted  butter.  
 3. Thicken a quarter of a pound of  butter  with  flour,  and
brown it; then put to it one pound of the best  anchovies  cut small, six
blades of pounded  mace,  ten  cloves,  forty  berries of black
pepper  and  allspice,  a few small  onions,  a fagot of  sweet
herbs  (namely,  savory,   thyme,   basil,  and knotted
 marjoram ), and a little  parsley  and sliced  horseradish;  on
these pour half a pint of the best  sherry  and a pint and a half of
strong  gravy.  Simmer all gently for twenty minutes, then  strain it through a sieve, and bottle it for use. The way of
using it is, to boil some of it in the  butter  while melting. 
 4. Put into a saucepan a pint of fine  port wine,  a gill of mountain,
half a pint of fine  walnut ketchup,  twelve  anchovies,  and the
liquor that belongs to them, a gill of  walnut pickle,  the  rind 
and  juice  of a large  lemon,  four or five shalots, some
 cayenne  to taste, three ounces of scraped  horseradish,  three
blades of  mace,  and two teaspoonfuls of  made mustard : boil it all
gently, till the rawness goes off, then put it into small bottles for use. Cork
them very close, and seal the top. 
 5. Chop twenty-four  anchovies,  not washed, and ten shalots, and
scrape three spoonfuls of  horseradish;  which, with ten blades of
 mace,  twelve  cloves,  two sliced  lemons,  half a pint of
 anchovy liquor,  a quart of hock or  Rhenish wine,  and a pint of
 water,  boil to a quart; then strain off; and when cold, add three large
spoonfuls of  walnut ketchup.  
 All or any of these will be found excellent for family use; as, when added
to any common  sauce  for  fish,  or even to plain melted
 butter,  a moderate quantity will impart to it a very fine flavor, and in
many cases they may be used also for  meat,  if eaten cold. 
  
 
 Pontac  Ketchup   

is for this purpose both very simple and very good. Put ripe
 elderberries,  picked from the stalk, into a stone jar, with as much
strong  vinegar  as will cover them. Bake with the  bread;  and,
while hot, strain. Boil the liquor with a sufficient quantity of  cloves, 
 mace,   peppercorns,  and shalots to give it a fine flavor. When
that is obtained, put in half a pound of the finest  anchovies  to every
quart of liquor; stir, and boil only until dissolved. When cold, put it into
pint bottles, and tie 
 double bladders  over each cork. The same method
should be observed for preserving all ketchups.  
 
 An excellent and not common  Pickle,  called "
Salade,"  may be made thus:-- 
 Fill a pint stone jar with equal quantities of  onions, 
 cucumbers,  and  sour apples,  all cut into very thin slices,
shaking in, as you go on, one teaspoonful of  salt  and three parts of a
teaspoonful of  cayenne.  Pour in a  wine -glass of soy, the same of
 white wine,  and fill up the jar with  vinegar.  It will be fit for
use the same day. 
  
 
 Quin's  Sauce   

is also excellent. Half a pint of common  mushroom ketchup,  half a pint
of  walnut-liquor,  eight  anchovies,  eight  cloves of garlic, 
four bruised and four whole, three teaspoonfuls of  cayenne pepper,  three
of  mushroom -powder, all boiled together for five minutes, and bottled
when cold.  
 
 
  1174.--CAYENNE
PEPPER May be made by pounding the dry  peppers,  or
 chilis,  to a fine powder, with  salt,  and keeping it in
bottles. 
 
 

  1175.--FRENCH
MUSTARD. To  mustard  ground, add  tarragon vinegar  and
 oil,  with  salt  and  garlic.   Tarragon vinegar  is made
by covering the leaves with  vinegar,  and steeping them in it. 
 
 
 
 PASTE--MEAT PIES--FISH PIES. 
 
  1176.--VARIOUS SORTS OF
PASTE. In making 
  paste  for pies  great care should be taken
that the  flour  be well dried; for the finer kinds of  paste  it
ought also to be sifted. The very best  salt butter  is perhaps the best
material for making  paste.  Some persons employ  lard,  or equal
parts of  lard  and  butter;  and clarified dripping is an excellent
substitute.  
 An adept in pastry never leaves any part of it adhering to the board or dish
used in making. The best thing to make it upon is a slab of marble or slate;
which substances cause less waste, being cold and smooth. The coolest part of
the house, and of the day, should be chosen for the process; the hands should
be previously washed in very  hot water,  and the less they touch the
 paste  the better and lighter it will prove; nor should it be rolled
much. 
 In whatever way  paste  be made, wetting it much will render it
tough. 
  Salt butter  of the best quality makes a fine flaky crust; for sweet
things, wash it. In making 
 pie-crust   lard  is, however, better than
 butter;  and in making the 
  paste   it is sometimes mixed with the
 flour  in a dry state. 
 Heating the oven properly is a very essential point in baking the various
sorts of  paste  to be here enumerated. 
 
 Raised pies  must be put into a quick oven, or the
crust will fall. The cook should accurately know the proper heat for each
article, as opening the door to observe their progress lets in the air, and
often spoils them. They require from one half to a full hour more than when
baked in a dish. 
 
 
  1177.--CRUST FOR RAISED
PIES. Boil  water  with a little fine  lard,  and an equal
quantity of fresh dripping, or of  butter,  but not much of either. While
hot, mix this with as much  flour  as you will want, making the
 paste  as stiff as you can to be smooth, which you will make it by good
kneading and beating it with the rolling-pin. When quite smooth, put a lump
into a cloth, or under a pan, to soak till nearly cold. 
 In raising  paste  it should be brought to a firm consistence, and of
sufficient thickness to hold the  meat  together; it should therefore not
be too rich, and it is easier to be worked if moderately warm than cold. The
proper way to raise the crust is by placing the left hand on the lump of
 paste,  and with the right keep working it up the back of the hand, till
all be of the proper shape and thickness; a mould, or a decanter, may be used.
When worked into the desired form the  meat  is then put into the pie,
and, when quite full, the lid is put on and fixed to the wall or side; the top
being ornamented with some device, also made of  paste.  Before putting it
in the oven glaze it all over with  white of egg.  
 Those who have not a good hand at raising crust may roll the  paste  of
a proper thickness, and cut out the top and bottom of the pie, then a long
piece for the sides; then cement the bottom to the sides with  egg, 
bringing the former rather farther out, and pinching both together; put
 egg  between the edges of the  paste  to make it adhere at the
sides. Fill the pie, put on the cover, and pinch it and the side crust
together. The same mode of uniting the  paste  is to be observed if the
sides are pressed into a bin form, in which the  paste  must be baked,
after it shall be filled and covered:
 *  the tin should be buttered, and carefully taken off
when done enough; and as the form usually makes the sides of a lighter color
than is proper, the pie should be put into the oven again for one quarter of an
hour. 
 
 For  Venison  Pasty or Périgord Pie. --
To one quarter of a peck of  fine flour  use two and a half pounds of
 butter  and four  eggs : mix into  paste  with  warm
water,  and work it smooth and to a good consistence. Put a  paste 
round the inside, but not to the bottom of the dish;  and let the cover be pretty thick, to  bear  the long
continuance in the oven. 
 
 The bellow note appeared at the bottom of page 407 in the original
text. 
 *In lining a tin form, put in the sides first, having
cut the  paste  rather deeper than the tin, so as to allow for its lying a
little on the bottom, and that no joint may appear; then cut a piece
sufficiently large to cover the whole bottom. 
 
  1178.--PUFF PASTE FOR PATTIES OR
FIRST COURSE DISHES. One pound of  butter salt  or fresh, and one
pound of  flour  will make a good dish of patty cases, or a large case for
a vol-au-vent, and the remainder into a good dish of second course pastry. 
 Put your  flour  upon your board, work finely in with your hands
lightly a quarter of the  butter,  then add  water  sufficient to
make it the stiffness or softness of the remaining  butter;  each should
be the same substance; work it up smooth, then roll it out longways half an
inch thick; place the remainder of the  butter  cut in slices half way on
the  paste;  dust  flour  lightly over it, and double it up, press it
down with your rolling-pin, let it lie a few minutes, then roll it three times
thinner each time, letting it lie a few minutes between each roll, keep it free
from sticking to the board or rolling-pin. This  paste  is ready for patty
cases or vol-au-vent, or  meat  pies. 
 
 
  1179.--PUFF PASTE. To
obtain this in perfection much will depend on the quality of the  butter 
used, and on its being rolled out or turned a sufficient number of times, so
that the  butter  may be mixed with the  paste  in minute layers.
 Salt butter  will make as good, if not better  paste  than fresh.
When  salt butter  is used, it should be broken into small pieces, and put
into a pan or pail of c lean cold water;  well work or squeeze it between
the hands in the  water,  which will deprive it of the greatest portion of
the  salt  it contains; take it from the  water  and put it on a
cloth, and mould or work it well, in the same manner as you would a piece of
 paste;  when the  water  is all worked out, and the  butter 
appears dry and firm, make it in a roll and put it in a cold place for use.
Fresh  butter  should be moulded in the same manner as directed for
 salt,  but it does not require being first put into  water.  In
summer a few pieces of ice may be put into the  water  with the
 butter,  to harden it. 
 
 Scales. 
 An illustration of a scale. 
 
 Weigh one pound of  butter  and one pound of sifted  flour.  Take
two ounces of the  butter  and rub in with the  flour;  make a hole
in the middle, in which put a teaspoonful of  salt,  and pour in
sufficient  cold water  to make it into a  paste  of nearly the same
consistence as the  butter.  This should be more particularly observed in
summer, as the heat then causes the  butter  to become very soft during
the rolling of the  paste,  and to break through the surface, unless the
dough is made of considerably less consistence in the first place, in order to
allow for this. To each pound allow two  eggs,  well-beaten and mixed with
the  water.  
 Mix the dough into a clear, smooth  paste,  without toughness, by
rubbing it well with the heel of the right hand on the board until it has
acquired a clear, smooth, shining appearance; mould it into a round lump, then
press all the moisture from the remainder of the  butter,  and form it
into a ball, taking care not to soften it; put this upon the  paste  and
press it down, then enclose it with the  paste  like an
 apple -dumpling;  flour  the marble well and roll it out; this is
called the "first turn;" then fold it in three, and roll it out again, which
will be a second turn; now fold it again in the same manner, and put it in a
cold place, if convenient on ice, covered with a damp  cloth, until it is required to be rolled out for use.
Experience alone can determine when the  paste  has been sufficiently
rolled. 
 
 
  1180.--VERY LIGHT
PASTE. Mix the  flour  and  water  together, roll the
 paste  out, and lay bits of  butter  upon it. Then beat up the
 white of an egg,  and brush it all over the  paste  before it is
folded; repeat this when rolling out, and adding the  butter  each time
till the whole of the  white of egg  is used. It will make the
 paste  very flaky. 
 
 
  1181.--TRANSPARENT CRUST FOR
TARTS. Beat an  egg,  till it be quite thin; have ready twelve
ounces of the purest, well-washed  butter,  without  salt,  melted
without being oiled; and when cool mix the  egg  with it, and stir it into
one pound of  fine flour  well dried. Make the  paste  very thin;
line the pattypans as quickly as you can, and, when putting the tarts into the
oven, brush them over with  water,  and sift  sugar  on them. If they
are baked in a lightly heated oven, they will look beautiful. 
 
 
  1182.--BRIOCHE
PASTE. This  paste  is essential in many of the finer kinds of
cookery, and, though rather troublesome to make, will repay the pains bestowed,
since, with a small addition of  sauce,  it will afford an excellent
side-dish in itself, and it will enter into the composition of, and improve,
all the more elaborate entrées. Take seven fresh  eggs  two pounds
of  flour  dried and warmed at the fire, and one pound of fresh
 butter.  Take half a pound of this  flour,  and pour into the middle
of it a dessert-spoonful of  yeast,  which has been prepared by pouring
 water  over it, stirring it, and allowing it to stand to settle, and then
draining the  water  off. It is the sediment which must be employed. Pour
a little  warm water  over the  yeast,  and mix the  paste  up
with it, which forms the leaven;  flour  the pan, lay the leaven in it
before the fire to rise, and slit it on the top. As soon as the  paste 
has risen, proceed thus:--Make a hole in the middle of the remaining
 flour,  put into it a little  salt,  about a saltspoonful, the same
quantity of  powdered sugar,  to take off any bitter taste in the
 yeast,  and a little  water  to melt it; the  butter  broken
into small pieces, and the  eggs : work it all well together, and knead it
thoroughly, spreading it out and working it well: then spread it out entirely,
and lay the  yeast  or leavened  paste  all over it, taking the
greatest care in kneading and shifting the  paste  about to mix both well
together. When completed,  flour  a towel, wrap the  paste  up in it,
and put it into a pan; if in cold weather in a warm situation, and if in hot
weather in a cold one. It is best made a day before it is wanted. Very minute
pieces, shaped in any way, add greatly to the excellence of soup, to be boiled
with it, or stewed in the  gravy  of a 
 vol-au-vent,  and strewed over the top. It is cut
into shapes also, and fried as the accompaniment of braised dishes of every
kind. It is an exquisite case for  lobster  and other patties, or, brushed
over with  egg,  may be fried in shapes for a side-dish: or it may be
boiled in cups, six in a dish, and served up with  asparagus  cut small
and heaped upon the top, and a  white sauce  round. In fact, a clever
cook, by employing different flavoring ingredients, either sweet or
 savory,  may make endless dishes of brioche. It should not, however,
predominate; and, therefore, it is best only to make a small quantity at a
time, where the consumption of the family is not great. 
 It will not keep long.  
 
 
  1183.--MEAT PIES, PATTIES,
&c. There are few articles of cookery more generally liked than
relishing pies, if  properly made; and they may be
formed of a great variety of things. 
 
 Raised Pies  may be made of any kind of flesh,
 fish,   fruit,  or poultry, if baked in a wall of  paste 
instead of a baking-dish; but they are generally eaten cold, and made so large
and  savory  as to remain a long time before being consumed, for which
reason they also  bear  the name of "standing pies." In making them, the
cook should always take care to have a good  stock  that will
 jelly,  made from the  bones  and trimmings, to fill up the pie when
it comes from the oven, and also that when cold there may be enough
 jelly.  For want of this precaution pies become dry before they can be
eaten. The materials are of course frequently varied, but the mode of
preparation is so nearly the same as not to require the recital of more than a
few prominent receipts. 
 
 
  1184.--SEASONING FOR RAISED
PIES. Three pounds of  salt  dried and pounded, three ounces of
 white pepper,  half an ounce of  cayenne pepper,  two ounces of
 cloves,  two ounces of  allspice,  one ounce of  basil,  one
ounce of  marjoram,  one ounce of  thyme,  one ounce of bay-leaf, one
ounce of  nutmeg,  one ounce and a half of  mace.  
 Pound the  spices  and  herbs  by themselves and sift through a
fine sieve; then mix with the  salt,  and put away in a stoppered bottle:
three-quarters of an ounce is sufficient for one pound of farce, and half an
ounce for one pound of boned  game.  
 
 
  1185.--JELLY FOR MEAT OR RAISED
PIES. Take a quart of  veal gravy,  dissolve two ounces of
 isinglass  in a little of it; add the remainder with a quarter of a pint
of  tarragon vinegar;  boil all together for a quarter of an hour. Clarify
it with the  whites of six eggs,  then pass it through a bag. 
 
 
  1186.-- PIE RAISED HOT,
RUSSIAN. Take a  salmon  and a  liver,  cut them into
scollops, and simmer both, but separately, in some  butter,  with shred
 parsley,   mushrooms,   truffles,  shalots,  salt, 
 pepper,   nutmeg;  mince the  yolks  of a dozen  hard
eggs.  Make a raised crust in the usual manner, put in a layer of
 rice  previously boiled in  chicken broth,  but cold, as should be
all the materials; on this lay some of the scollops of  salmon,  on which
strew a layer of  egg,  then a layer of  liver,  strew the
 egg,  then the  salmon  again, and so on till your pie is full; then
pour in the  butter  and  herbs,  cover the whole with  rice, 
and finish the pie according to the above directions. 
 
 
  1187.--PIE RAISED, TO BE SERVED
HOT. Make a stiff  paste  as directed for raised pies, which mix
with  warm water;  when well mixed together roll it out thin, cut a piece
out for the bottom and two for the sides, according to the shape of the dish;
 egg  the edges you intend to join, and press them well together so that
the joining may not be seen; shape it, garnish it with leaves or festoons,
according to your taste fill it nearly to the top with bran,  egg  it, and
let it be baked in a moderate oven; when done of a light color turn out the
bran, and set it ready for what you intend to put in, which may be cutlets of
 mutton  stewed with vegetables,  partridge  farced with a  brown
sauce,   chickens  cut up, a ragout in a  brown sauce,  or stewed
 eels.  
 
 
  1188.--RAISED PIE OF FOWLS.
(Soyer.) Make the  paste  and  forcemeat,   bone  a
young  fowl,  which lay flat upon a clean cloth,  breast  downwards;
season the interior with a little  pepper,   salt,  and chopped
 onions;  spread a layer of  forcemeat  over, half an inch in
thickness; have ten pieces of  veal,  of the thickness of your finger, and
the same length as the  fowl,   and the same
number of pieces of  fat bacon,  lay half of the  veal  and
 bacon  alternately upon the  fowl,  well seasoned with  pepper 
and  salt,  cover over with more  forcemeat,  then another layer of
 veal  and  ham,  cover with more  forcemeat;  then roll the
 fowl  over, making the  skin  meet at the back; you have previously
lined a raised pie mould with  paste,  then line the pie with
 forcemeat,  half an inch in thickness, lay in the  fowl,  sprinkle a
little  pepper  and  salt  over, cover with the remainder of the
 forcemeat,  to form a dome, place a pat of  butter  and two
bay-leaves upon the top, and bake; when done, pour in a gill of  gravy 
made from the  bones  of the  fowl;  serve cold. 
 
 
  1189.--RAISED PIE OF
PHEASANT. Proceed precisely as for the pie of  fowl,  but of
course using a  pheasant;  an old one would answer the purpose if kept
long enough, but all the sinews of the  legs  must be taken out in boning
it; the fillets of the  breast  also, being very thick, may be partly cut
out and used with the  veal  for the interior; if in a situation to obtain
 rabbits,  the fillets of them might be used instead of  veal  for
the interior, and the  legs  for  forcemeat.  
 For  gravy,  break up the  bones  of the birds, which put into a
stewpan with a glass of  sherry,  an  onion,  a few sprigs of
 thyme,   parsley,  and a bay-leaf; let it simmer a minute over the
fire, then add a pint of  broth  and a little  isinglass  or
 gelatine,  let the whole simmer for an hour, giving it a nice brown
color, when pass it through a sieve into a small stew-pan, place it again upon
the fire, skim off all the  fat,  and reduce it to half a pint, and when
the pie is baked, pour it in, shaking the pie a little to mix well; serve when
cold. 
 Pies of grouse,  partridges,   moor fowls,  &c., are made
precisely in the same manner, using one or more according to the size you wish
to make your pie. The  fillets of hares  are likewise excellent in pies,
whilst the  legs  might be jugged or converted into soup. 
  Capons,  poulards, green  geese,  or ducklings, may also be
served in a pie, (proceeding as directed for  fowls ), by managing the
size of the pie, and  seasoning  in proportion. 
  Pigeon  pie can also be made in the same way, but then the  meat 
with which the interior of the birds are filled must be cut much smaller, and
requires less time in cooking. 
 
 
  1190.--HOT LAMB PIE
(raised.) To make this an oval, a tin or copper pie mould would be
required, which you would choose of a size most generally useful.  Butter 
the interior of the mould, which stand upon a baking sheet, then make the
following  paste : put a quarter of a pound of  butter  and the same
of chopped  suet  into a stewpan, with three-quarters of a pint of
 water,  or more if required, and let the whole boil together one minute,
when strain it through a sieve into a basin containing two pounds of
 flour,  mixing it first with a spoon, and when cool enough with the hand,
until forming a smooth  paste;  when partly cold roll it out into a sheet
half an inch in thickness, with which line the mould, pressing the  paste 
evenly at all parts; have ready cut sufficient small  lamb  chops from the
 loin,  neatly cut away the  bones,  and lay them round the interior
of the pie alternately with slices of raw  potatoes  (a quarter of an inch in
thickness), season rather highly as you proceed, with  pepper, 
 salt,  chopped  onions,  and  parsley : make a  neat 
cover with the trimmings of the  paste,  and bake it rather better than
two hours in a moderate oven; when done lift the cover, pour out as much of the
 fat  as possible, add a little  gravy,  and serve. 
  
 
  1191.--OTHER VARIOUS
PIES. Hot raised pies may also be made with  mutton  by following
the above directions. They are also very good made with 
  fillet of beef   cut into thin slices of the
size of the  lamb  chops, or of 
  rump steak,   by laying a piece at the bottom,
 seasoning  and filling alternately with  potatoes  and the  meat;  
  veal  and  ham   pies are also excellent,
but the  potatoes  in them had better be omitted, the  veal,  however,
seasoned and dipped in  flour.  Pies may also be made with 
  veal sweetbread  and  ham,   but then
about three parts of a pint of  white sauce  should be poured in after the
pie is baked. 
  Fowls  or  rabbits   may likewise be cut
into joints, and put into a stewpan, with a piece of  butter,  previously
well  seasoning  them with  pepper,   salt,  and chopped
 eschalots;  cover the stewpan close, and leave it twenty minutes over a
slow fire, add a pint of  white sauce,  and simmer ten minutes longer;
when cold build them up in the interior of the pie, which cover and bake an
hour in a warm oven. Pies of the above description can of course be made of any
size, either large enough for a family meal, or very small and round, for a
corner dish for a dinner party; most people who are in the habit of making
them, keep two different-sized moulds for the purpose. 
 
 
  1192.--RUMPSTEAK
PIE. Procure two pounds of rumpsteaks, which cut into slices half an
inch thick, and season well with  pepper  and  salt;  dip each piece
into  flour,  and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in the
form of a dome; add a wineglassful of  water,  then have ready half a
pound of plain  paste,  cut off a small piece, which roll into a band, and
lay round the edge of the dish, having previously wetted it with a
 paste -brush dipped in  water,  then roll out the remainder of the
 paste  to about the size of the dish, damp the band of  paste  upon
the dish, and lay the other piece over, make a hole with a knife at the top,
press the edges evenly down with your thumbs, trim the pie round with a knife,
 egg  over the top with a  paste -brush, and ornament it with the
trimmings of the  paste,  according to fancy; bake it rather better than
an hour in a moderate oven, and serve either hot or cold. 
 
 
  1193.--VEAL AND HAM
PIE. Cut about a pound and a half of  veal  into thin slices, as
also a quarter of a pound of cooked  ham;  season the  veal  rather
highly with  white pepper  and  salt,  with which cover the bottom of
the dish, then lay over a few slices of  ham,  then the remainder of the
 veal,  finishing with the remainder of the  ham,  add a
 wine -glassful of  water,  and cover and bake as directed for
 beef-steak  pie: a bay-leaf will be an improvement. 
 
 
  1194.--MUTT0N
PIE. Procure the chumps of three  loins of mutton,  from which
cut the  meat  in moderately thin slices, put a layer at the bottom of the
dish, which season well with chopped  parsley,   eschalots, 
 pepper,  and  salt;  then put a layer of slices of raw  potatoes 
and again a layer of  mutton,   seasoning  as before, proceeding thus
to the top, which form in a dome, finishing with  mutton,  cover with
 paste,  and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie. 
 
 
  1195.--PÁTÉ DE
FOIES GRAS. [This receipt is fornished by Mr. DEL-MONICO, expressly
for this work.] 
 Prepare a  stuffing  of fresh  pork,  a pound of lean to a pound
and a half of  fat;  mince and 
 chop  it: add your preparation of  livers  in
the same manner as with  truffles,   seasoning  the mixture with
 salt,   pepper,   spices,  and aromatic  herbs  
 bruised  and passed through a sieve. Have in
readiness two fine,  fat livers,   well
cleaned. Make ready a pie of two and a half pounds of  paste : surround
this pie with thin slices of  fat,  and, in the bottom, place some
 stuffing : season the  livers,  cover them with  stuffing  and 
  truffles,   and place them in your pie or dish,
which fill up with  stuffing  and  truffles,  placing on the top a
piece of fresh  butter.  Cover this with slices of  fat  and over it
place a laurel-leaf. Moisten the edge of the pie and cover it with a crust of
 paste : fasten this on well, cut off the edges equally and crimp or
decorate it. Make a covering of  puff paste,  and, in the middle, make a
hole which is called the chimney. Wash it over with  eggs  and let it bake
in an evenly-heated oven, for three and a half hours. When cold, fill it with
good  meat -jelly. 
 
 
  1196.--LAMB PIE. Cut a
small  neck of lamb  into chops, which must not be too  fat,  season
them lightly with  pepper  and  salt,  and lay them in your pie-dish,
with a few new  potatoes  in slices, pour in a little  water,  then cover
and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie. 
 
 
  1197.--CHICKEN PIE. Cut
up a nice plump  chicken  into joints, which lay upon a dish, and season
lightly with chopped  parsley,   white pepper,  and  salt,  then
lay the back, cut into three pieces, at the bottom of a pie-dish with the two
 legs  on either side; have half a pound of cooked  ham  or
 bacon  in slices, a layer of which cover over, then lay in the two
 wings,  and over them the  breast,  cut into two pieces, which, with
the remainder of the  ham  or  bacon,  form into a dome in the
middle, pour half a pint of  white sauce  over, if handy, or a little
 broth  or  water,  cover with  paste,  and bake as directed for
the last. If no  white sauce,  dip each piece lightly in  flour.  
 
 
  1198.--GIBLET PIE. When
the  giblets  have been taken from the  goose,  place them with the
exception of the  liver,  but with the pinions,  feet,   head, 
and  neck,  into  boiling water  to blanch; remove the  skin 
from the  feet  and beak; put into a stewpan a piece of  butter  the
size of a  walnut,  one  onion  cut in slices, a bay-leaf, a little
 salt,   pepper,  and  sugar : place it on the fire until the
 onion  is brown; place in the  giblets  with the  head  cut in
two, let them remain on the fire for about three minutes, stirring them round,
then add one quart of  boiling water,  and let them stew gently for two
hours, remove from the fire, and let them get cold. Take a pie-dish and place a
piece of  steak  on the bottom, then place over that the  giblets 
with the  liver,  and  steak  again over them, add the liquor the
 giblets  were stewed in, season and cover with half  puff
paste.  
 
 
  1199.--RABBIT PIE. Cut
a nice  rabbit  into joints, splitting the  head  in halves, and lay
them in  lukewarm water  half an hour to disgorge, then dry them upon a
cloth, season well with  pepper,   salt,  chopped eshalots,
 parsley,  two bay-leaves, and a spoonful of  flour;  have also
three-quarters of a pound of uncooked streaked  bacon,  cut into square
pieces the size of  walnuts,  build up the pieces of  rabbit  and
 bacon  together, in a pie dish, commencing with the worst pieces, and
forming a dome; pour in a little  water,  cover with  paste,  and
bake as directed for rumpsteak pie. 
 
 
  1200.--PIGEON PIE. Line
the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound of rumpsteak, cut into slices not too

thin, seasoned with a little  salt,   pepper,  and  cayenne, 
and dipped into  flour;  have ready picked and drawn a couple of
 pigeons,  cut off the  feet,  turn the  legs  in, fold up the
pinions of the  wings,  and lay them  breast  to  breast  upon
the  meat,  have the  yolks  of four  hard boiled eggs,  which
put at the sides,  sprinkle a little  pepper 
and  salt  over the  pigeons,  lay a bay-leaf upon the top, pour in a
little  water,  cover with  paste,  stick the  feet  in the top,
and bake as directed for the last. The  pigeons  may be stuffed with a
little  veal stuffing,  if handy. 
 
 
  1201.--PARTRIDGE
PIE. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with slices of  veal,  cut
moderately thick, and rather lightly seasoned with  white pepper  and
 salt;  have ready picked, drawn, and trussed, a couple of young
 partridges,  pour one glass of  sherry  over the  veal,  one of
 water,  and lay in the  partridges breast  to  breast,  laying
a piece of  fat bacon  over each, cover with  paste,  sticking the
 feet  of the  partridges  in the top of the pie, and bake as
before. 
 
 
  1202.--GROUSE
PIE. Roast, very underdone, a couple of nice plump grouse; when cold,
cut into joints, having the two  wings,  two  legs,  and the
 breasts  in two pieces each, season them lightly, and lay them in a
pie-dish, building them to form a dome, then break up the back- bone  and
other trimmings, which put into a stewpan, with a glass of  sherry,  a
bay-leaf, an  onion  in slices, a few sprigs of  parsley,  three or
four whole  allspice,  set the stewpan over the fire a few minutes until
the  wine  boils, when add half a pint of  brown sauce,  and half a
pint of  broth,  stir it over a fire until again reduced to half a pint,
strain it through a sieve, over the grouse; when quite cold cover with
 paste,  as directed for  rump-steak  pie, and bake, in a very hot
oven; about half an hour would be sufficient, as the  paste  requires to
be laid on thinner, the contents of the pie having been previously cooked. 
 
 
  1208.--POT PIE. Two
pounds of  veal meat,  two pounds of  flour,  one-quarter of a pound
of  lard  or  butter,  half a dozen  potatoes,  one-quarter of a
pound of pickled  pork,  cut into small pieces. Make the  paste  very
soft, and roll it very thin; put in the  potatoes  and  meat,  then the
 paste,  layer after layer, with  cold water  enough to cover it;
boil it half an hour slowly. 
 
 
  1204.--EEL
PIE.  Skin  and cleanse three good-sized  eels,  which cut
into pieces about two inches in length, put a good-sized bunch of
 parsley,   thyme,  and three bay-leaves, all tied together, into a
stewpan, with an  onion,  into which you have stuck four  cloves,  a
glass of port- wine,  and a pint of  broth,  lay in the pieces of
 eels,  and set them upon the fire to simmer for ten minutes, take them
out, laying them upon a cloth to drain, skim off all the  fat  from the
 stock  the  eels  were cooked in, to which add rather more than half
a pint of  brown sauce,  let the whole boil until reduced to three parts
of a pint, when dress the pieces of  eels  up in a pie-dish, strain the
 sauce  over through a sieve, and when cold, cover with  paste,  as
directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven; serve it
hot. If for a small pie they may be used raw, and season accordingly, after
having rolled each piece in  flour.  
 
 
  1205.--BEEFSTEAK
PUDDING. Put a pound of  flour  upon a dresser, with which mix
half a pound of  beef suet,  very finely chopped, make a hole in the
middle, into which put a teaspoonful of  salt,  and sufficient
 water  to form a rather stiffish  paste,  mix it well together,
using a little more  flour  to dry it and prevent its sticking; then
lightly  butter  the interior of a round-bottomed pudding basin, roll out
two-thirds of the  paste  to half an inch in thickness, with which line
the basin; have ready cut into slices, about the size of the palm of the
hand,  and a quarter of an inch in thickness, two
pounds of rumpsteak with a little of the  fat  included; lay them upon a
dish, season with two teaspoonfuls of  salt  and one of  black
pepper,  sprinkle a little  flour  over, move them about a little until
each piece is well covered with  flour  and  seasoning;  then lay
them within the  paste,  also putting in whatever  seasoning  may
remain upon the dish, (some add two dozen of  oysters,  blanched and
bearded, which is excellent,) pour a gill of  water  over, moistening the
edges of the  paste;  then roll out the remainder of the  paste  to
form a lid, which place over, pressing it down with the thumb, then tie the
basin in a pudding-cloth, and put into a saucepan, containing about a gallon of
 boiling water,  and keep continually boiling for nearly two hours, adding
a little more  water  occasionally to keep up the quantity; then take it
up, untie the cloth, run a sharp-pointed knife into the pudding, and if the
 meat  feels tender it is done (if not, it will require more boiling),
turn it over upon your dish, lift the basin carefully from it, and serve,
without opening the pudding to add  gravy,  as many persons do, for a
pudding made as above ought to be full of  gravy  when cut at table. 
 
 
  1206.--MUTTON
PUDDING. Line a pudding-basin with  paste,  as directed in the
last; then have ready cut into slices the  meat  from two
 loin -chumps of  mutton,  which lay upon a dish, and season with a
teaspoonful of chopped  onions,  the same of chopped  parsley, 
rather more than half that quantity of  black pepper,  and  salt  in
proportion; then put a layer of  meat  into the pudding, then a layer of
raw  potatoes  cut into slices; proceeding thus until you have filled it up,
but finishing with  meat,  cover it up as in the last, likewise tie it in
a napkin, and boil, but rather better than two hours would be sufficient; serve
as before directed. 
 
 
  1207.--LAMB PUDDING. If
convenient, procure the entire  ribs of a lamb,  sawing off the
 breast  almost close to the lean part of the  neck;  the
 breast  may be cooked; cut the  neck  into rather thin cutlets,
which season lightly with  white pepper,   salt,  and a little
chopped  parsley  and  onions;  you have previously lined a
pudding-basin with  paste  as before, fill it with the  meat  thus
prepared, intermixing a few new  potatoes  cut in slices, finish the pudding,
boil, and serve as before directed. 
 
 
  1208.--VEAL
PUDDING. Cut two pounds of  veal  from any part of the  leg 
into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand, and a quarter of an inch
in thickness, put two ounces of  butter  into a frying-pan, and when
melted lay in the  veal,  and a few slices of streaked  bacon, 
season the whole with  pepper  and a little  salt,  add one bay-leaf,
and a few sprigs of  thyme;  place the pan over a slow fire, sauté
the  veal  gently for a quarter of an hour; then take it from the fire,
and leave it in the pan until cold, then have a pudding-basin lined with
 paste  as before, lay in the  veal  and  bacon,  pouring the
 gravy  over, cover, and boil as before, but an hour would be
sufficient. 
 
 
  1209.--PORK
PUDDING. Line a pudding-basin with  paste  as before, and spread
three-quarters of a pound of  sausage-meat  of an equal thickness over the
interior, have a pound and a half of  lean pork,  from the  leg  if
possible, cut into square pieces of the size of  walnuts,  which season
rather highly with  pepper,   salt,  a teaspoonful of chopped
 eschalots,  and half that quantity of dried 
 sage;  put the  meat  into the centre of the pudding, cover over
with a quarter of a pound more  sausage-meat,  over which put on the cover
of  paste,  tie it in a cloth, and boil two hours and a half, as directed
for  beefsteak  pudding. 
 
 
  1210.--KIDNEY
PUDDING. Procure one  ox  or eight  mutton kidneys,  which
cut into slices the thickness of half-a-crown piece; lay them upon a dish,
 seasoning  well with  black pepper  and  salt,  and shaking one
ounce of  flour  over; mix all well together, to absorb the  flour 
and  seasoning;  then have a pudding-basin, lined as directed for
 beefsteak  pudding, finish, boil, and serve as there directed. 
 A pudding made with one pound of  steak  and a  beef kidney  is
also very excellent. 
 
 
  1211.--RABBIT
PUDDING. Cut a  rabbit  up in joints, (splitting the  head 
in halves,) and lay them in a basin of  lukewarm water  an hour to
disgorge; line a pudding-basin with  paste  as directed for rumpsteak
pudding, dry the pieces of  rabbit  upon a cloth, and lay them in the
pudding with half a pound of streaked  bacon  cut into square pieces, and
 seasoning  rather highly with chopped  eschalots,   salt, 
 pepper,  and chopped  parsley;  cover, tie it in a cloth, boil it
two hours, and serve as before directed. 
 
 
  1212.--OYSTER PIE. As
you open the  oysters  separate them from the liquor, which strain 5
parboil  sweetbreads,  and, cutting them in slices, lay them and the
 oysters  in layers; season very lightly with  salt,   pepper, 
and  mace;  then put half a teacupful of liquor, and the same of  veal
gravy.  Bake in a slow oven; and before you serve, put a teacupful of
 cream,  a little more  oyster -liquor, and a cup of  white
gravy,  all warmed, but not boiled. 
 
 
  1213.--OYSTER PIE. (English
way.) Lay a tender  beefsteak  in the bottom of a dish and on it
 oysters  and  bread crumbs,  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Fill the dish with layers of beafsteak and  oysters;  pour over it the
liquor of the  oyster,  cover with a light  paste  and bake twenty
minutes in a quick oven. 
 
 
  1214.--YORKSHIRE
PUDDING. Put six tablespoonfuls of  flour  into a basin, with six
 eggs,  a pinch of  salt,  and a quarter of a pint of  milk, 
mix well together with a wooden spoon, adding the remaining three-quarters of a
pint of  milk  by degrees; you have previously set a shallow tin dish
under a piece of roasting  beef  before the fire; an hour before serving
pour in the batter, leaving it under the  meat  until quite set and rather
browned upon the top, when turn the pudding over upon the dish you intend
serving it upon, and again place it before the fire until the other side is
rather browned, when it is ready to serve with the  meat.  
 This pudding is very excellent baked under a small piece of  beef  of
about five or six pounds. It is also frequently baked beneath a  shoulder of
mutton;  and sometimes in an oven separate, if the fire is not large enough,
(with a few spoonfuls of  gravy  added). 
 
 
  1215.--TOAD IN A
HOLE. Make a batter as directed for the Yorkshire pudding, but with
the addition of a spoonful more  flour  and six ounces of chopped  beef
suet;   butter  a rather deep baking-dish, into which pour the batter,
lay a solid piece of  lean gravy beef  about three pounds, in the centre,
or a  beef  skirt, and bake it an hour and a half in a hot oven. 
 Another method is to cut up about three pounds of rumpsteaks into about six
pieces, and putting them in the bat-  ter at
various distances apart, but the former method is most common. 
 Any remains of cooked  beef,   veal,   mutton,   pork, 
roasted or boiled,  salt  or fresh, or  game  and  fowl,  cut in
pieces, and seasoned to taste, may be used in this dish, by adding it to the
batter when in the dish. 
 
 
  1216.--FISH
PUDDING. Out a slice of  salmon  half an inch thick, and weighing
about one pound; remove the  skin  and  bone,  mix a
 salt -spoonful of  salt,  half one of  pepper,  one of finely
chopped  onions  and  parsley,  and a spoonful of  flour  in a
plate, and rub the  fish  with it; make half a pound of  flour  into
 paste,  roll it half an inch thick, place a pudding-cloth in a
middle-size basin,  flour  the cloth, lay the  paste  in it, place in
the  salmon  with a little  water  and  white wine,  and a
bay-leaf, bring the  paste  over so that the edges meet in the middle,
having reserved a small piece which you have rolled out to place over the
joint, after having wetted it. Tie the cloth, but not too tight, round the
 paste;  place it in a gallon of  boiling water,  let it simmer for
one hour and a half, take it out, remove the cloth, and serve it with  shrimp
sauce  over or separate.  Fillets of soles,   mackerel,  turbot,
or other  fish,  may be used. 
 
 
  1217.--VEAL PIE IN A
DISH. First of all get all your ingredients ready, namely, hop,
 parsley,  shalots, or  onions,   mushrooms,   pepper  and
 salt,   mint,  four  eggs  boiled  hard,  a little good
second  stock,  now your  paste.  After you have made patties or any
first or second course pastry, the  paste  that remains will do, be sure
to put an edging of  paste  to your dish; first lay a layer of lean and
 fat ham,  or mild  bacon,  then sprinkle it over with the prepared
ingredients, then a layer of  veal,  and part of an  egg,  then
another layer of  ham  and  parsnips  as before, and keep on
repeating it until quite full, letting the middle be much higher than the
sides; put a little drop of second  stock  into it, bake it in a slow
oven; be sure and cut a hole in the top, and if you like ornament it with
leaves of  paste;  after egging the top, well notch the edge. Pour some
good  white stock  into it when done and hot. 
 
 
  1218.--BEEFSTEAK
PIE. Take some good  steaks,  beat them with a rolling-pin,
season them with  pepper  and  salt;  fill a dish with them, adding
as much  water  as will half fill it, then cover it with a good crust, and
bake it well. 
 
 
  1219.--COLD VEAL OR CHICKEN
PIE. Lay a crust into a shallow  tart  dish, and fill it with the
following mixture:-- shred  cold veal  or  fowl,  and half the
quantity of  ham,  mostly lean, put to it a little  cream,  season
with  white  and  cayenne pepper,   salt,  a little
 nutmeg,  and a small piece of shalot, chopped as fine as possible: cover
with crust, and turn it out of the dish when baked, or bake the crust with a
piece of  bread  to keep it hollow, and warm the mince with a little
 cream,  and pour in. 
 
 
  1220.--CALF'S HEAD
PIE. Stew a  knuckle of veal  till fit for eating with two
 onions,  a little  isinglass,  a fagot of  sweet herbs,  a
blade of  mace,  and a few  peppercorns  in three pints of
 water;  keep the  broth  for the pie. Take off a little of the
 meat  for  forcemeat balls,  and let them be used for the family,
but boil the  bones  until the  broth  is very good: half boil the
 head,  and cut it into square pieces; put a layer of  ham  at the
bottom of them, some  head,  first  fat  then lean, with  forcemeat
balls,  and  hard-boiled eggs  cut in half, and so on till the dish is
full, but be careful not to place the pieces close together or the pie will  be too solid, and there will be no space for the
 jelly.  The  meat  must be first pretty well seasoned with
 pepper  and  salt,  and a little  nutmeg;  put a little
 water  and a little  stock  into the dish, and cover it with a
thickish crust, bake it in a slow oven, and when done, pour into it as much
 gravy  as it will possibly hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold,
in doing which use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a large slice, going
down to the bottom of the dish, and when done thus thinner slices can be cut.
The different colors and the clear  jelly  have a beautiful
appearance. 
 
 
  1221.--DUCK
PIE.  Bone  a full-grown young  duck  and a  fowl, 
wash them and season with  pepper  and  salt,  a little
 allspice  and  mace  pounded; put the  fowl  within the
 duck,  and on the former a  calf 's  tongue  pickled red,
boiled very tender and peeled, press the whole close, the  skins  of the
 legs  should be drawn inward, that the body of the  fowl  may be
quite smooth; if approved, the space between the sides of the crust may be
filled with a fine  forcemeat.  Bake it in a slow oven, either in a dish
or raised pie-crust, ornamented. 
 
 
  1222.--FISH PIE. This
pie may be made of any  fish,   salmon,  pike,  eel,  or any
other. Scale your  fish  and cut it into pieces, line your pie-dish with a
good crust, put in the  fish  with a bunch of  sweet herbs,  a little
 salt,  some bruised  spices,  and a layer of  butter  on the
top, put on the crust and bake for an hour and a half; when done remove the
 fat  and put in a vegetable ragoût made thus:--Stir a little
 butter  and  flour  over the fire until a pale brown, moisten with
half a pint of  sherry,  some soup maigre, add a few  mushrooms,  a
little  salt,  and a bunch of  herbs;  let it boil half an hour, and
then put the ragoût into the pies. Any vegetable ragoût may be
used. 
 
 
  1223.--GAME PIE. Cut up
your  game,  and use  truffles  and whole  mushrooms  if you
have them; the seasonings as before, but no  hard-boiled eggs,  and add a
little  port wine  with your  gravy  or  stock.  If you take the
 bones  from the birds or  hare,  use some  forcemeat  as layers
instead as in former pies,  veal  and  steaks,  but no  eggs; 
if boned you will prepare a good  stock  from the  bones,  making the
pie taste of the very essence of the  game,  or poultry, or whatever it
may consist of. 
 
 
  1224.--SNIPE
PIE.  Bone  three snipes, fill them with a light
 forcemeat,  adding the trails and some  truffles  pounded, put the
birds in a deep dish, with a small layer of  forcemeat  all round; cover
with a puff- paste,   egg  it, ornament it to fancy, and put it into
the oven. When about three parts done, lift up the lid, pour in some good
cullis, a glass and a half of  Madeira,  Season with  cayenne pepper 
and  lemon-juice,  cover down, and finish baking. 
 
 
  1225.--GREEN GOOSE
PIE.  Bone  two young green  geese  of a good size, but
first take away every plug and singe them nicely, wash them clean, and season
them high with  salt,   pepper,   mace,  and  allspice. 
Put one inside the other and press them as close as you can, drawing the
 legs  inwards; put a good deal of  butter  over them, and bake them
either with or without crust; if with the latter a cover to the dish must fit
close to keep in the steam, it will keep long.  Gravy  jellied may be
added when served. 
 
 
  MACKENZIE'S PERIGORD
PIE. Take six  partridges  and tie their  legs   like  chickens  to be boiled; season them with
 pepper,   salt,   cloves,  and beaten  mace.  Put two
pounds  lean veal,  and one pound of  fat bacon  cut into small bits,
in a stew pan with half a pound of  butter,  shalots, chopped
 herbs,  and  seasoning;  stew till tender; strain and pound the
 meat  in a mortar; mix the  pulp  with some of the liquor; put this
 forcemeat  around and over the  partridges  in a raised pie, and lay
over thin slices of  bacon.  Cover with  paste;  bake three hours in
a moderate oven. 
 Worcester  sauce,  good with  savory  pies, is said to be made on
a basis of good  walnut ketchup  with additional  spices.  
 
 
  1227.--HARE PIE. Season
the  hare  after it is cut up, in the same manner as if to be jugged; and
bake it, with  eggs,  and  forcemeat  partly made of the
 liver,  in a raised crust or dish. When it is to be served, raise the
lid, and, if in a crust, cover it with  jelly  5 but, if made in a dish,
with warm  gravy,  mixed with a large glassful of  port wine.  
 
 
  1228.--TIPPERARY CURRY (an
excellent Picnic Dish). Boil four  chickens,  and stuff two of
them when cold with a  forcemeat  made of crumbs of  bread,  a few
slices of  ham  or  tongue,   sweet herbs,  and a shalot well
pounded and mixed with the  yolk of an egg.  Stuff the other two with
boiled  rice,  lay them in a mould or dish, with eight  hard-boiled
eggs  cut in half, a few  mushrooms,  a little pickled  lemon, 
cut in thin rings. Pour over the  chickens  a  gravy  made as
follows:--Fry an  onion  in a little  butter,  add a table-spoonful
of  curry -powder, one of  vinegar,  one of  mushroom -ketchup,
a little  salt,  and a little more than a pint of good  veal broth; 
if the  broth  does not  jelly,   isinglass  must be put into it
to make it do so. When cold turn it out on a dish. It is a great improvement to
 bone  the  chickens,  the  bones  helping to make the
 gravy.  
 
 
  1229.--FRENCH PIE. Make
a raised crust upon a buttered tin, and brush it with  yolk of egg;  cover
the bottom with  forcemeat,  then fill up the pie with  sweetbread 
cut into small pieces,  oysters,   hard eggs,   legs of
chicken,   turkey,  or  rabbit,  boned;  artichoke -bottoms
in small pieces,  asparagus -tops,  forcemeat -balls, and
 mushrooms,  taking care to lay them regularly, and to season the whole
lightly and evenly: bake it in a moderate oven. When it is done pour in some
strong  gravy  and  cream  thickened with  flour  and
 butter.  
  Sausage-meat  may be mixed with the  forcemeat,  and in winter
 truffles  substituted for the vegetables; the  seasoning  should be
of  mace,   cloves,  and  cayenne pepper.  
 
 
  1230.--VEGETABLE
PIE. Scald and blanch some broad  beans ; cut young  carrots, 
 turnips,   artichoke -bottoms,  mushrooms,   onions, 
lettuces,  parsley,   celery,  and add  peas;  or use any of
them you may have. Make them into a nice stew, with a little good  veal
gravy;  season with  pepper  and  salt;  bake a crust over a dish,
with a little lining round the edge. When baked, pour the stew into the dish,
and lay the crust over it. Winter vegetables may be used in the same way, and a
cup of  cream  is a great improvement. 
 
 
  1231.--COLD PIES. When 
  meat   
 pies  are prepared to be 
 eaten cold,   suet  should not be put into the
 forcemeat  that is used with them. If the pie is made of  meat  that
will take more dressing, to make it extremely tender, than the baking of the
crust will allow, prepare it in the following way:-- Take three pounds of the
veiny piece of   beef  that has  fat 
and lean; wash it, and season it with  salt,   pepper,   mace, 
and  allspice,  in fine powder, rubbing them well in. Set it by the side
of a slow fire, in a stewpot that will just hold it; put to it a piece of
 butter  of about the weight of two ounces, and cover it quite close; let
it just simmer in its own steam till it begins to shrink. When it is cold, add
more  seasoning,   forcemeat,  and  eggs : if it is made in a
dish, put some  gravy  to it before baking; but if it is only in crust, do
not put the  gravy  till after it is cold and in  jelly. 
 Forcemeat  may be put both under and over the  meat,  if preferred
to balls. 
 
 
  1232.--VEAL AND SWEETBREAD
PIE. Out the  veal  from the chump end of the  loin;  season
it well; clean and blanch a  sweetbread,  cut it into pieces, and season
it; lay both in the dish with the  yolks  of six  hard-boiled eggs 
and a pint of  oysters.  Strain the  oyster liquor,  add to it a pint
of good  gravy;  line the sides of the dish with a  puff paste  half
an inch thick, and cover it with a lid of the same. Bake it in a quick oven for
an hour and a quarter; and when it is sent to table cut the lid into eight or
ten pieces, and stick them round the sides, covering the  meat  with
slices of  lemon.  
 
 
  1233.--VEAL AND SAUSAGE
PIE. Cover a shallow dish with  paste,  lay a well-beaten  veal
cutlet  at the bottom, slightly seasoned; cover it with a  Bologna
sausage  freed from the  skin  and cut into slices; then add another
 cutlet  and a layer of the  Bologna sausage;  cover the whole with
 paste,  and put no  water  to it: the  veal  will give out
sufficient  gravy,  while it will be rendered very  savory  by the
 sausage.  It is excellent eaten cold. 
 
 
  1234.--VEAL AND OYSTER
PIE. Make a  seasoning of pepper,   salt,  and, a small
quantity of grated  lemon-peel.  Out some  veal -cutlets, and beat
them until they are tender: spread over them a layer of pounded  ham,  and
roll them round; then cover them with  oysters,  and put another layer of
the  veal  fillets, and  oysters  on the top. Make a  gravy  of
the  bones  and trimmings, or with a lump of  butter,   onion, 
a little  flour  and  water;  stew the  oyster liquor,  and put
to it, and fill up the dish, reserving a portion to put into the pie when it
comes from the oven. 
 
 
  1235.--EXCELLENT PORK PIES TO
EAT COLD. Raise the crust according to the directions already given,
into either a round or oval form, as you choose; have ready the trimmings and
small bits of  pork  cut off when a  hog  is killed; and if these are
not enough, take the  meat  off a blade- bone.  Beat it well with a
rolling-pin, cut it into dice, season with  pepper  and  salt,  and
keep the  fat  and lean separate. Put it in layers, quite close up to the
top; lay on the lid; cut the edge smooth round, and pinch it; bake in a slow
soak-ing oven, as the  meat  is very solid. The  pork  may be put
into a common dish, with a very plain crust, and be quite as good. Observe to
put no  bone  or  water  into  pork  pie: the outside of the
pieces will be  hard  unless they are cut small and pressed close. 
 Both these and  veal  and  chicken  pies are generally eaten cold,
and, as they are always seasoned highly, will keep good for several days in the
hottest weather. In England it is not uncommon to take off the cover and fill
the pie up, when cold, with clouted  cream,  which is a very delicious
addition. 
 
 
  1236.--CALF'S-HEAD OR
CALF'S-FOOT PIE. Either must be well stewed before being put into the
pie. They must be cut into nice pieces, free from  bone,  and  well seasoned, or otherwise they will be tasteless. If to be
eaten hot,  sausage-meat  or fresh  mushrooms  or  oysters  will
be an improvement, in addition to the  ham,   eggs,  and  forcemeat
balls;  and if cold, the small  pickled mushrooms  should be added, or
a little  mushroom powder  in the  gravy.  The excellence of the pie
will chiefly depend upon the  seasoning  and flavor, and the quantity of
fine  savory jelly  which it will contain; and therefore the  meat 
should not be closely packed, in order to leave room for the  jelly.  
 
 
  1237.--CALF'S-FOOT AND KIDNEY
PIE. Take from a cold roasted  loin of veal  slices of the
 kidney fat,  cover them with pounded  ham,  and put them into a dish
with the  kidney  cut into pieces, and the  meat  from a
 calf 's  foot;  put in a few  hard-boiled eggs  and
 forcemeat balls,  made very  savory  with  oysters,  an
 anchovy,  and the  fat of bacon,  as this pie should be eaten cold.
Put the  juice  of a half a  lemon,  or a spoonful of Harvey
 sauce  into a  gravy.   Sweetbread  may be employed instead of
 kidney.  
 
 
  1238.--BEEF-STEAK AND OYSTER
PIE. Prepare the  steaks  as above, and put layers of them and of
 oysters.  Stew the liquor and beards of the latter with a bit of
 lemon-peel,   mace,  and a table-spoonful of  walnut
ketchup.  When the pie is baked, boil with the above three spoonfuls of
 cream,  and one ounce of  butter  rubbed in  flour;  to which,
however, many people object as injuring the savoriness of the pie; in which
case, should any addition be required, a few spoonfuls of  beef gravy  and
 port wine  will answer the purpose. Strain it, and pour it into the dish:
for a small pie a dozen large  oysters  will be sufficient, and the pie
may be baked in a couple of hours. 
 
 
  1239.--MARROW
PATTIES. Make a  paste  with four ounces of  sweet almonds 
blanched, moistening them with  orange flower water;  mix this
 paste  with a handful of  flour,  a drop of  warm water  and
the  yolks of three eggs;  then line several shallow moulds with it, glaze
and bake them in a slow oven. When done put into each of them a little
 cream  about the thickness of a crown piece, made with  beef
marrow,   lemon peel,  and  cream,  cover it with a spoonful of
 white of egg  whipped to a snow, sprinkle sifted  sugar  over, and
serve them very hot. 
 
 
  1240.--SQUAB PIE Is a
favorite dish in some parts of England, and is there generally made of
 mutton.  Cut  apples  as for other pies, and lay them in rows with
 mutton  chops and shred  onion;  sprinkle with  pepper  and
 salt,  and also some  sugar.  Bake the pie in a deep dish, cover it
with a thick crust and eat it hot; it must be well done, and will take two to
three hours baking. It is often made of  beef  cut into dice, with some
 lean bacon  seasoned and mixed with the  apples.  
 
 
  1241.--VENISON
PASTY. The  neck,   breast,  and shoulder are the only parts
of the  deer  used for a pasty; and even the  neck  is more generally
roasted. 
 Cut the  venison  in pieces; put it into a stewpan with a little
 port wine,  two shalots, an  onion,  bay-leaf, fagot of
 parsley  and  thyme,   pepper,   salt,  and a little
 gravy.  Cover it close and let it stew gently until tender; take out the
 meat,  and pull out the  bones;  reduce the  gravy,  and when
thoroughly cold remove the  fat  5 then proceed 
 to make the pasty . 
 Line the sides of the dish with crust, but not the bottom; lay in the
 meat  with  fat  between each piece, season with  pepper   and  salt,  put to it a pint of the
 gravy  and a few bits of  butter,  cover with a good crust, and bake
it thoroughly. 
 Keep the remainder of the  gravy  till the pasty comes from the oven,
put it by means of a funnel into the middle quite hot, and shake the dish to
mix it well. The pasty must be well done, requiring generally two hours'
baking. 
 A want of  fat  may be supplied by the  fat of a loin of mutton 
steeped for twenty-four hours in  port wine  and  garlic
vinegar.  
 
 
  1242.--TO MAKE A PASTY OF BEEF
OR MUTTON TO EAT LIKE VENISON.  Bone  a small  rump  or
piece of  sirloin of beef,  or a  fat loin of mutton,  after hanging
several days. Beat it very well with a rolling-pin; then rub ten pounds of
 meat  with four ounces of  sugar,  and pour over it a glass of port,
and the same of  vinegar.  Let it lie five days and nights; wash and wipe
the  meat  very dry, and season it very high with  pepper, 
 Jamaica pepper,   nutmeg,  and  salt.  Lay it in the dish, and
to ten pounds put three-quarters of a pound of  butter;  spread it over
the  meat.  Put a crust round the edges, and cover with a thick one, or it
will be overdone before the  meat  be soaked: it must be done in a slow
oven. 
 Set the  bones  in a pan in the oven, with no more  water  than
will cover them, and one glass of port, a little  pepper  and  salt, 
that you may have a little rich  gravy  to add to the pasty when
drawn. 
 
 
  1243.--YORKSHIRE GOOSE
PIE.  Bone  a  goose,  a  fowl,  and a  pigeon; 
season them well with  pepper,  taking care to cover the whole of the
interior, or otherwise it will turn sour before it can be eaten; put the
 pigeon  into the  fowl,  and the  fowl  inside the
 goose,  filling the interstices with various kinds of force and
 sausage meat  and  hard-boiled eggs.  The  liver  and
 gizzard  of the  fowl  and  pigeon  will assist in the
 forcemeat,  which must be very well compounded; sew up the  goose, 
and put it into a thick crust. It will take several hours to bake. Make
 savory jelly,  which must also be well seasoned, pour it into the pie
when it comes from the oven; ornament the top, and let it be movable, so that
the pie may have a good appearance to the last, as the crust is not to be
eaten. A  calf 's  foot,  boned and cut small, may be added,
especially if used for the  jelly.  
 
 
  1244.--A CHRISTMAS
PIE.  Bone  a large  goose  and a  fowl.  Parboil a
 smoked tongue;  peel it and cut off the root. Mix together a powdered
 nutmeg,  a quarter of an ounce of powdered  mace,  a tea-spoonful of
 pepper,  the same quantity of  salt,  and season the  fowl  and
 goose.  
 Roll out the  paste  near an inch thick, and divide it into three
pieces; cut out two of them in an oval form for the top and bottom; and the
other into a long straight piece for the sides or walls of the pie. Brush the
 paste  all over with beaten  white of egg,  and set on the bottom
the piece that is to form the wall, pinching the edges together, and cementing
them with  white of egg.  The bottom piece must be large enough to turn up
a little round the lower edge of the wall piece, to which it must be firmly
joined all round. When you have the crust properly fixed, so as to be baked
standing alone without a dish, put in first the  goose,  then the
 fowl,  then the  tongue.  Fill up what space is left with pieces of
the flesh of  pigeons,  or of  partridges,   quails,  or any
 game  that is convenient. There must be no  bones  in the pie. You
may add also some bits of  ham,  or some  forcemeat balls.  Cover the
ingredients with half a pound of  butter,  and put on the top crust which,
of course, must be also of an oval form to correspond with  the bottom. The lid must be placed not quite on the top edge
of the wall, but an inch and a half below it; close it very well, and ornament
the sides and top with festoons and leaves cut out of  paste;  notch the
edges handsomely, and put a  paste  flower in the centre; glaze the whole
with beaten  yolk of egg,  and bind the pie all round with a double fold
of  white paper;  bake it four hours. 
 If the weather is cold, and the pie kept carefully covered up from the air,
it will be good for two or three weeks, the standing crust assisting to
 preserve  it. 
 
 
  1245.--PATTIES. Roll
out  puff paste  half an inch thick, and, with a two-inch round cutter,
cut as many pieces as are required for the dish. Take an inch cutter, dip it in
 hot water,  and press it in the middle of the  paste  about half
through. Brush the pieces over with  yolk of egg,  bake in a quick oven,
take out the piece marked with the inch cutter, remove the soft parts from the
inside, fill them with a mince of any kind, dish them on a napkin, garnish with
fried  parsley.  To make the tops, roll out the trimmings thin, cut some
pieces with the inch cutter,  egg  them over, and bake them. 
 
 Of  Beef  .--Shred underdone dressed  beef 
with a little  fat,  season with  pepper,   salt,  and a little
shalot or  onion.  Add  gravy,  half a glass of  Madeira,  and a
few  bread-crumbs.  When hot, fill the patty-cases. 
 
 Of  Veal  .--Mince some  veal  that is not
quite done, put to it a little  parsley,   lemon-peel, 
 nutmeg,  and  salt;  a little  cream  and  gravy  just to
moisten the  meat;  if you have any  ham,  it will be an improvement.
Do not warm it till the patties are baked. 
 
 Of  Turkey  .--Mince some of the  white 
part; and with grated  lemon,   nutmeg,   salt,  a very little
 white pepper,   cream,  and a very little bit of  butter 
warmed, fill the patties. 
 
 A good Mince for Patties .--Two ounces of  ham, 
four of  chicken  or  veal,  one  egg  boiled  hard,  three
 cloves,  a blade of  mace,   pepper  and  salt,  in fine
powder. Just before you serve, warm the above with four spoonfuls of rich
 gravy,  the same of  cream,  and one ounce of  butter.  Fill as
usual. 
 
 Of  Oyster  .--Take off the beards of the
 oysters,  cut the other parts in small bits, put them in a small tosser
with a grate of  nutmeg,  a little  white pepper  and  salt,  a
morsel of  lemon-peel  cut very small, a little  cream,  and a
small quantity of the  oyster liquor.  Simmer a few minutes before you
fill. 
 
 or: --Beard and chop the  oysters,  boil a
little  cream,  with an  onion  and a small quantity of  mace; 
chop fine the crust of a  French roll,  mix it with the  oysters, 
add the  cream;  let it boil. Season with  nutmeg,   cayenne, 
and  salt.  
 
 Of  Lobster  .--Mince the  fish  in the
same manner, mingling with it a little of the  coral,  and make with the
same  seasoning,  a little  cream,  and the smallest bit of
 butter.  
 
 Of Shrimps .---Pick a quart of shrimps; if they are
very  salt,  season them with only  mace  and a  clove  or two.
Mince two or three  anchovies;  mix these with the  spice,  and then
season the shrimps. Put a glass of sharp  white wine.  They do not take
long baking. 
 
 
  1246.--VOL-AU-VENT. Take  puff paste,  roll
it about three-quarters of an inch thick, cut it round or oval according to the
shape of the dish; make the knife hot in  water,  so as not to drag the
 paste  in cutting it; mark the cover an inch from the edge, brush it over
with  yolk of egg;  bake it in a  quick oven;
when done take off the top, clean out the soft  paste,  return it to the
oven for a few minutes to dry; dish it on a napkin. 
 Care must be taken in taking out the soft part not to break the outside. 
 It may be filled with ragot of  sweetbread,  fracasse of
 chicken,  quenelles,  lobster,  or  oysters,  but is never made
of a large size. 
 
 
  1247.--VOL-AU-VENT OF
CROQUETTES. Make croquettes of the size of a  pigeon's egg, of
veal  and  ham  and of  calves '  brains,  an equal quantity
of each, fry them of the palest gold color; make a rich  white-sauce,  and
put into it the very smallest  mushrooms  or minced  truffles;  give
it an acid flavor with  lemon  or  lemon-pickle,  and put it into the
vol-au-vent when it is to be sent to table. 
 
 
  1248.--VOL-AU-VENT OF
VEAL. Cut  veal  into thin pieces the size of half-a-crown, beat
them, and fry them a pale brown; make some  forcemeat  and
 egg-balls,  fry the former, put the whole into a rich  brown gravy, 
fill the vol-au-vent, and serve it up hot. 
 
 
  1249.--VOL-AU-VENT OF PIGEONS
AND SWEETBREADS. Cut off the pinions,  legs,  and backs of three
or four  pigeons,  and  bone  the  breast,  making it as large
as possible: cut three or four pieces of blanched  sweetbread  the same
size, put them together, securing them with tape, and put them into a stewpan
with a piece of  butter,  the trimmings, an  onion,  a bunch of
 sweet herbs,  a slice of  fat bacon,  and a small teacupful of
 water.  Let them stew till quite tender; remove the tape, strain and
thicken the  gravy,  and put them into the  paste  when it conies
from the oven. 
 
 
  1250.--CODFISH
PIE. Take dressed  codfish  and cold  oyster-sauce;  put a
little of the  sauce  at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of flakes
of  codfish,  with a little of the  liver  cut in small pieces;
season with  black pepper  and  salt,  and a very little
 nutmeg;  repeat the layers until the dish is full, cover it with
 breadcrumbs  and bits of fresh  butter;  bake for three-quarters of
an hour, and let the top be quite brown. A couple of sounds well soaked, boiled
tender, and cut in small pieces, are a great improvement. 
 
 or: --Take a piece of the middle of a small
 codfish,  and  salt  it well one night; next day wash it, cut it in
slices, season with  pepper,   salt,  and a very little
 nutmeg,  mixed; place it in a dish, and put some  butter  on it,
with a little good  broth  of any kind. Cover it with a crust; and when
done, raise it, add a dozen  oysters,  one quarter of a pint of
 cream,  a little  flour  and  butter,  a grate of  lemon  and
 nutmeg,  and give it one boil. Bake it a full hour. 
 
 
  1251.--A REMARKABLE FINE FISH
PIE. Boil two pounds of small  eels;  having cut the fins quite
close, pick the flesh off, and throw the  bones  into the liquor with a
little  mace,   pepper,   salt  and slice of  onion;  boil
till quite rich, and strain it. Make  forcemeat  of the flesh, an
 anchovy,   parsley,   lemon-peel,   salt, 
 pepper,  and crumbs, and four ounces of  butter  warmed, and lay it
at the bottom of the dish. Take the flesh of  soles,  small  cod,  or
dressed turbot, and lay them on the  forcemeat,  having rubbed it with
 salt  and  pepper;  pour the  gravy  over, and bake. 
 
 
  
 FRUIT PIES, PUFFS, PUDDINGS, &c. 
 All pies made either with summer fruit or with winter preserves will be
improved by a mixture of apples, pared and sliced. They are especially good
with fresh cherries, currants, &c, and will be found an agreeable addition
to cranberries. Equal portions also of cranberries and any very sweet jam will
improve both. When apples are mixed with jam, they should be sliced thin; and
if syrup be wanted, a few slices boiled with a little of the jam in sugar and
water. In making pies of green gooseberries, apples, or rhubarb, the sugar
should be clarified--that is, boiled in a little water, but no water poured
into the pie, as it destroys the flavor of the fruit. For 
 fresh fruits  short crust is very suitable. 
 For a good common 
 pie-crust  allow half a pound or three-quarters of
shorten ing to a pound of flour. Pie-crust looks the nicest made entirely of
lard, but does not taste so good as with some butter. In winter, beef
shortening, mixed with butter, makes good plain crust. Rub half of the
shortening with two-thirds of the flour--to each pound of flour put a
teaspoonful of salt and add just sufficient cold water to render it moist
enough to roll out easily. Divide the crust into two equal portions-lay one of
them aside for the upper crust, take the other, roll it out quite thin,
flouring your rolling-board and pin so that the crust will not stick to them,
and line your pie plates, which should be previously buttered-fill your plates
with your fruit, then roll out the upper crust as thin as possible, spread on
the reserved shortening, sprinkle over the flour, roll it up, and cut it into
as many pieces as you have pies to cover. Roll each one out about half an inch
thick, and cover the pies-trim the edges off neatly with a knife, and press
the crust down round the edge of the plate with a jagging iron, so that the
juices of the fruit may not run out while baking. Pastry should be baked in a
quick oven. 
 
  1252.--PUFF PASTE, OR
CONFECTIONERS PASTRY. Weigh out a pound and a quarter of sifted
 flour,  and a pound of  butter.  Rub about one-third of the
 butter  with two-thirds of the  flour,  and a teaspoonful of
 salt.  When the  butter  is thoroughly mixed with the  flour, 
add one beaten  egg,  and  cold water  to moisten it sufficiently to
roll out. Sprinkle part of the reserved  flour  on a board, cut the
 butter  left into small pieces, and roll them out as thin as possible.
Lay the  butter,  as fast as rolled out, on a  flour ed plate, each
piece by itself--roll out the pastry as thin as it can be rolled, cover it with
the rolled  butter,  sprinkle on part of the reserved  flour,  and
roll the crust up. Continue to roll out the crust, and put on the reserved
 butter  and  flour,  till the whole is used. Roll it out lightly,
about half an inch thick, for the upper crust, or rim to your pies--plain pie
crust should be used for the under crust. Or, instead of  flour,  sprinkle
some " baking powder " on each layer of  butter;  when the
 butter  melts, it will cause the powder to effervesce and puff up the
 paste.  To make the " baking powder, " take one ounce of
 carbonate of soda,  and seven drachms of  Tartaric acid,  mix well:
it may be conveniently applied by means of a common  pepper -pot kept for
the pur pose. Puff pastry, to be nice, should be baked in a quick oven till of
a light brown color. If it browns before the  fruit  in the pie is
sufficiently baked, cover it with thick  paper.  
  
 
  1253.--FLAKY PASTE. (By a Lady
of New York.) Wet half a pound of dried  flour  with  cold
water  enough to make a  hard,  stiff  paste;  roll it one way
only; roll in half a pound of  butter  with a knife, in small bits at a
time. 
 
 
  1254.--RHUBARB
PIES. Take the tender stalks of the  rhubarb,  strip off the
 skin,  and cut the stalks into thin slices. Line deep plates with pie
crust, then put in the  rhubarb,  with a thick layer of  sugar  to
each layer of  rhubarb --a little grated  lemon-peel  improves the
pie. Cover the pies with a crust--press it down tight round the edge of the
plate, and prick the crust with a fork.  Rhubarb  pies should be baked
about an hour, in a slow oven--it will not do to bake them quickly. Some cooks
stew the  rhubarb  before making it into pies, but it is not so good as
when used without stewing. 
 
 
  1255.--PUMPKIN
PIE. Halve the  pumpkin,  take out the  seeds  --rinse the
 pumpkin,  and cut it into small strips--stew them over a moderate fire,
in just sufficient  water  to prevent their burning to the bottom of the
pot. When stewed soft, turn off the  water,  and let the  pumpkin 
steam, over a slow fire, for fifteen or twenty minutes, taking care that it
does not burn. Take it from the fire, and strain it when cool, through a sieve.
If you wish to have the pies very rich, put to a quart of the stewed
 pumpkin  two quarts of  milk,  and twelve  eggs.  If you like
them plain, put to a quart of the  pumpkin  one quart of  milk  and
three  eggs.  The thicker the pie is of the  pumpkin,  the less will
be the number of  eggs  required for them. One  egg,  with a
table-spoonful of  flour,  will answer for a quart of the  pumpkin, 
if very little  milk  is used. Sweeten the  pumpkin  with
 sugar,  and very little  molasses --the  sugar  and  eggs 
should be beaten, together.  Ginger,  grated  lemon-rind, 
 cinnamon  and  spices  or  nutmeg,  are good for the pies.
 Pumpkin  pies require a very hot oven. 
 
 
  1256.--PUMPKIN PUDDING. (By a
Lady of New York.) One quart stewed  pumpkin,  nine beaten
 eggs,  three pints  cream,   sugar,   mace,   nut 
meg and  ginger.  Bake in  paste.  
 
 
  1257.--POTATO
PUDDING. Boil Carolina or mealy Irish  potatoes  until they are quite
soft. When peeled mash and strain them. To a quarter of a pound of  potatoes, 
put a quart of  milk,  three table-spoonfuls of melted  butter,  four
beaten  eggs,  a  wine -glass of  wine --add  sugar  and
 nutmeg  to the taste. 
 
 
  1258.--PEACH PIE. Take
mellow juicy  peaches --wash and put them in a deep pie plate, lined with
pie crust. Sprinkle a thick layer of  sugar  on each layer of
 peaches,  put in about a table-spoonful of  water,  and sprinkle a
little  flour  over the top--cover with thick crust and bake from fifty to
sixty minutes. 
 
 
  1259.--FANCY
PASTRY. Use some fancy cutter, cutting the  paste  a quarter of
an inch thick,  egg  them and glaze them, and bake them a light brown;
when cold put different colored  sweetmeats,  such as  apple jelly, 
and  red currant jelly  into devices upon the top of each piece; dish
them upon a napkin. 
 
 
  1260.--GLAZING FOR
TARTS. Mix sifted  sugar  and  water  into a thick
 paste  like  cream,  and brush it over the crust. 
 
 
  1261.--COCOA-NUT
PIE. Cut off the brown part of the cocoa- nut,  grate the
 white  part, and mix it  with  milk, 
and set it on the fire and let it boil slowly eight or ten minutes. To a pound
of the grated cocoa- nut  allow a quart of  milk,  eight  eggs, 
four table-spoonfuls of sifted  white sugar,  a glass of  wine,  a
small  cracker,  pounded fine, two spoonfuls of melted  butter,  and
half a  nutmeg.  The  eggs  and  sugar  should be beaten
together to a froth, then the  wine  stirred in. Put them into the
 milk  and cocoa- nut,  which should be first allowed to get quite
cool--add the  cracker  and  nutmeg --turn the whole into deep pie
plates, with a lining and rim of  puff paste.  Bake them as soon as turned
into the plates. 
 
 
  1262.--A PLAIN CUSTARD
PIE. Boil a quart of  milk  with half a dozen  peach
leaves,  or the  rind of a lemon.  When they have flavored the
 milk,  strain it, and set it where it will boil. Mix a table-spoonful of
 flour,  smoothly, with a couple of table-spoonfuls of  milk,  and
stir it into the boiling  milk.  Let it boil a minute, stirring it
constantly--take it from the fire, and when cool, put in three beaten
 eggs --sweeten it to the taste, turn it into deep pie plates lined with
 paste,  and bake the pies in a quick oven. 
 
 
  1268.--MINCE
PIES. Fresh  tongue  must be used. It should be for two days well
covered with equal quantities of  salt,   brown sugar,  and pow dered
 cloves.  After boiling it until it is thoroughly done--say two
hours-- skin  it and mince it fine. Pick, wash, and dry three pounds of
 currants,  grate the  rind  of five  lemons,  and
 extract  their  juice,  blanch and pound an ounce of bitter
 almonds  and a pound of sweet al monds, powder four  nutmegs,  and grind
together a dozen  cloves  and a dozen blades of  mace;  chop up three
pounds of  beef suet,  six pounds of  Sultana raisins,  and six of
the best  pippin apples  after paring and coring them. Mix them to gether,
pouring over them a quart of  Madeira wine  and a pint of
 brandy.  
 This mince- meat  should be placed in a tolerably deep dish and baked
with  puff paste.  It should be thoroughly baked. Most persons prefer to
eat these pies warm, but they are by no means unpalatable when cold. 
 These pies are richer when the mince  meat  has been left for a few
days in a stone jar, closely covered with a  paper  which has been dipped
in  brandy.  When taken out, a little more  sugar  and a small
quantity of  brandy  should be added to the mixture before the pies are
made. 
 
 
  1264.--CRACKER PIE. One
 soda biscuit  and a half, one teacup of  white sugar,  one
 lemon,  one teacup of  boiling water.  Break the  biscuit  into
small bits, pour over them the  boiling water,  cover, and leave them to
swell. Grate the yellow part of the  rind  of the  lemon,  add to it
the  juice  and the  sugar,  mix with the  cracker  when it is
suf ficiently swelled; make a nice crust, and prepare as  apple  pies.
Sift  sugar  over the pies when baked. 
 
 
  1265.--MINCE MEAT FOR CHRISTMAS
PIES.  (Miss Jane Strickland's Receipt.) 
Take equal quantities of finely shred and chopped  beef suet;  cold
 roast beef,  well roasted;  currants,  washed, dried, and picked;
and  raisins  stoned and chopped; and  apples,  pared, cored, and
chopped fine. Mix all these prepared ingredients well together, and sweeten
with good moist  Jamaica sugar,  to taste; grate off with  loaf
sugar  the  peel of two lemons,  and grate in two  nutmegs. 
Having well mingled all these materials together, add to them in the proportion
of your mince  meat,  thus:--If you have two pounds of every thing--namely
 meat,   suet,   currants,   raisins,  and  apples, 
and not quite two pounds of  sugar,  pour over the mixture a  pint of  rum,  or  French brandy,  and
half a pint of  raisin wine.  If  spirits  are disliked,  raisin
wine  of a fine quality or Lisbon must be added; but the  spirits  will
keep it three months. Fill a jar with your mince- meat,  cram down as
 hard  as possible, and cover with a close-fitting lid, tied down with
brown  paper.  Be careful whenever you take out your  meat,  to cram
down that in the jar with a spoon, and cover close. Line your tin dishes with
puff or family  paste;  fill with mince  meat  heaped up in the
middle, cut slices of  candied orange,   lemon,  and  citron
peel,  and put on your  meat,  cover in with  paste;  mark
prettily with a knife, and bake in a quick oven; heat them for table. 
 It was formerly the custom in England for married couples to keep the
anniversaries of their wedding days, and on those occasions as many small mince
pies were placed on one dish on the table, as the host and hostess had been
married years. 
 
 
  1266.--MINCE MEAT (furnished by
a New York Lady). One boiled  tongue;  half its weight of finely
chopped  beef suet;  two pounds  currants,  two pounds
 raisins,  one quart of  brandy,  one of  wine;   apples 
and  sugar  at discretion;  cloves,   cinnamon,   mace, 
 citron,   orange -peel. 
 The mince  meat  made at Windsor Castle every year, and made one month
previous to using, is as follows: Two hundred and forty pounds of
 raisins,  four hundred pounds  currants,  two hundred pounds lump
 sugar,  three pounds  cinnamon,  three pounds  nutmegs,  three
pounds  cloves,  three pounds ground all  spice,  two pounds
 ginger,  three hundred pounds  beef,  three hundred and fifty pounds
 suet;  twenty-four bushels of  apples,  two hundred and forty
 lemons,  thirty pounds of cedret, seventy-two bottles of  brandy, 
three pounds  mace,  sixty pounds  lemon-peel,  sixty pounds
 orange-peel . 
 
 
  1267.--APRICOT
TART. Take some  apricots,  cut them in two, and break the
stones, put them into  paste  with  sugar,  a small quantity of
 preserved lemon,  and a few of the kernels, close it, sprinkle
 sugar  over, and glaze it. If the  apricots  are not ripe, boil them
a short time in  water,  and drain them well. 
 
 
  1268.--APPLE PIE. Pare,
core, and quarter the  apples;  boil the cores and parings in  sugar 
and  water;  strain off the liquor, adding more  sugar;  grate the
 rind of a lemon  over the  apples,  and squeeze the  juice  into
the  syrup;  mix half a dozen  cloves  with the  fruit,  put in
a piece of  butter,  the size of a  walnut,  and add or omit a glass
of  wine;  cover with  puff paste.  
  Gooseberry,   Currant  and  Raspberry,   Cherry, 
 Plum,   Damson,   Pear,   Quince,   Mulberry, 
Whortleberry and  Raspberry,   Dewberry  and  Raspberry,  or
 Cranberry,  may all be made in the same way, in winter. A little
 whipped cream  may be placed in the top, for a variety. 
 
 
  1269.--CODLING
TART. Scald the  fruit;  when ready, take off the  skin, 
and lay them whole in a dish; put a 
 little  of the  water  that the  apples 
were boiled in at bottom, strew them over with powdered lump  sugar;  when
cold, put a  paste  round the edges, and over. When the  tart  is
baked, smear the crust with  white of egg,  and sift over it some
 powdered sugar.  Serve with custard. 
 
 Or: --Line the bottom of a shallow dish with
 paste;  lay the  apples  in it, sweeten, and lay little twists of
 paste  over in bars.  
 The mode of making the 
 new-fashioned  Apple -pie  is to pare and
quarter the  apples,  scald them, beat them with a spoon with some of the
liquor, add grated  lemon-peel,  the  juice of a lemon  or
 Seville orange,  or a part of a  quince,  when they are to be got,
 cloves,   white sugar  finely pounded, and a piece of  butter; 
put a  paste  round the dish, and cover it with bars or flowers of
 paste --the excellence of the pie consisting of the sort of  apple 
and the goodness of the  paste;  the  fruit  should be raised in the
middle, as it shrinks in the baking. 
 
 
  1270.--TO MAKE A
SIMNEL. One pound of  flour,  one quarter of a pound of
 butter,  one quarter of a pound of lump  sugar,  one pound of
 currants,  two ounces of  candied lemon,  one quar ter of an ounce
of  carbonate of soda  mixed with an  egg,  and a little  milk; 
to be put in a tin mould, and baked till enough. 
 
 
  1271.--EXCELLENT LIGHT
PUFFS. Mix two spoonfuls of  flour,  a little grated
 lemon-peel,  some  nutmeg,  half a spoonful of  brandy,  a
little  loaf-sugar,  and one  egg;  then fry it enough, but not
brown; beat it in a mortar with five  eggs, whites  and  yolks;  put
a quantity of  lard  in a frying-pan, and when quite hot drop a
dessert-spoonful of batter at a time; turn as they brown. Serve them
immediately with  sweet sauce.  
 
 Spanish Puffs. --Put one ounce of fresh  butter 
into a quart stewpan; when hot, put in four spoonfuls of  flour;  stir it
over the fire for five minutes; have ready boiling a gill of  milk,  which
stir in by de grees so as to avoid making it lumpy; when it is thoroughly
boiled, take it off the fire, stir in six  eggs,  a pinch of  salt, 
a little  nutmeg,  chopped  lemon-peel,  and a handful of
 currants,  with  sugar  to palate, and sufficient  orange-flower
water  to flavor it; let it get cold; when wanted for use have some
 lard  boiling, make the batter into balls the size of a small wal
 nut,  fry them until they burst; drain; dust them over with  powdered
sugar;  serve with  wine-sauce.  
 
 German Puffs .--Put half a pound of  butter 
into a breakfast-cupful of  milk,  place the pan upon the fire, and when
it boils add a cupful of  flour;  beat all well together, and, when cold,
mix in six  eggs,  leaving out two of the  whites;  beat up some
 sugar  and grated  lemon-peel  with the  eggs,  and bake the
puffs in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 Irish Puffs .--Pound one quarter of a pound of sweet
and one ounce of  bitter almonds,  but not too finely; take one quarter of
a pound of  loaf-sugar  pounded and sifted, the  whites of two eggs 
beaten to a thick froth; mix all together, and put the puffs into pattypans
covered with  paste;  then sift  powdered sugar  over them thickly,
and bake them a light brown. The flavor may be improved by pounding the
 almonds  with  orange-flower water  or a little  essence of
lemon.  
 
 
  1272.--GAUFFRES. Take
four or five ounces of  flour,  three ounces of pounded  sugar,  half
a pint of  whipped cream,  four or five  eggs,  a small stick of
pounded  vanilla,  a grating of  nut  meg, and a little  salt, 
with a glass of cu-raçoa or ratafia. 
 Place the  flour,   sugar,  and  salt  in a basin, then add
the  yolk of eggs,  the  vanilla,  and the  spirit,  mixing them
well together, and gradually adding the  whipped cream.  Just before using
the batter, add the  whites of eggs,  whipped to a froth, and mix them in
lightly, so as to thoroughly incorporate, them with it. 
 Bake these gauffres in tongs made for the purpose, observing, however, that
the iron be very carefully heated, and the superfluous heat allowed to go off
pre viously to filling them with batter; rub  the
tongs with fresh  butter;  fill the bottom part with batter, and fasten on
the top, then turn it, and when a fine brown on both sides, shake some pounded
 spice  and  sugar  over them, and send them to table. 
 They may be spread with any kind of  preserve  or  jelly.  
 
 
  1273.--LENT PIES. Boil
a dozen  eggs  quite  hard,  and chop the  yolks  very fine;
chop also a dozen of moderate-sized juicy  apples,  peeled and cored,
together with two pounds of stoned  raisins;  add two pounds of
 currants,  one pound of  sugar,  and a table-spoonful each of
powdered  cinnamon,   nutmeg,  and beaten  mace;  take also the
 juice  and grated peel of three ripe  lemons,  with half a pound of
 citron  cut into slips; mix all these thoroughly, and moisten the whole
with a pint each of  white wine  and  brandy.  If at hand, a little
 rose-water  may be added, and ratafia may be used instead of
 brandy.  
 
 
  1274.--SWEET
PATTIES. Chop the  meat  of a boiled  calf 's- foot, 
of which you use the liquor for  jelly,  with two  apples,  one ounce
of  orange,  and  lemon peel  candied, and some fresh peel and
 juice;  mix with them one-half of a  nutmeg  grated, the  yolk of
an egg,  a spoonful of  brandy,  and four ounces  currants, 
washed and dried. Bake in small patty pans. 
 
 
  1275.--VOL-AU-VENT Means light as wind; you must
therefore make this  paste  very delicate. It is used for first or second
courses. Of all things in pastry the vol-au-vent requires the most care and
precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good
pastry-cooks. Make a pound of  puff paste,  giving it seven rolls and a
half, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either round or
oval, and according to the size of your dish; then, with a sharp-pointed knife
cut it out from the  paste,  holding the knife with the point slanting
outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the back of your knife, and place
it upon a baking-sheet, which you have sprinkled with  water;   egg 
over the top, then dip the point of the knife into  hot water,  and cut a
ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of
the vol-au-vent; set in a rather hot oven; if getting too much color, cover
over with a sheet of  paper;  do not take it out before done, or it would
fall, but when quite set, cut off the lid and empty it with a knife: be careful
to make no hole in the side or bottom; if for first course it is ready, but if
for second sift  sugar  all over, which glaze with the salamander.
Regulate the thickness of the  paste  from which you cut the vol-au-vent,
accord ing to the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring
thinner  paste.  A vol-au-vent for entrées will take about half an
hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one
side than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to
rise equally; it ought to be when baked of a light gold color. 
 
 Vol-au-Vent of  Peaches  .--Put half a pound of
 sugar  in a  sugar -pan, with the  juice of a lemon  and about
half a pint of  water,  place it upon the fire, and boil it till becoming
a thickish  syrup;  then have eight  peaches  not quite ripe, which
cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with
the kernels into the  syrup,  boil three minutes, take them out with a
skimmer, lay them upon a dish, and take off their  skins,  stew the rest
in  syrup  in like manner, four at a time; when all done pour what liquor
runs from them again into the  syrup,  which reduce to a good
thickness,  pass it through a tammy into a basin,
when cold pour a little over the  peaches,  and leave until ready to
serve; dress the  peaches  in your vol-au-vent with the  syrup 
over. 
 
 Vol-au-vent with  Fruit  .--These do not require
to be so high as the other, especially as the  fruit  ought to be dressed
in the form of a pyramid; if they are cut about three-quarters of an inch in
thickness it will be enough; when nearly done, sift some  powdered sugar 
over them, and put it back in the oven to glaze well; if not hot enough use the
salamander; remove the interior, taking care not to make a hole in the bottom
or sides, and fill with any kind of  fruit  you like, but never mix two
kinds together, except  currant  and  raspberry.  
 
 Sweet Vol-au-Vent with  Rhubarb  .-- In the
spring of the year this makes a very inviting and wholesome dish, and its
qualities purify the blood, which the winter's food has rendered gross; cut
about twelve sticks of  rhubarb  into lengths of one inch, put it in a
stewpan holding about two quarts, put over it a quarter of a pound of
 sugar,  and a table-spoonful of  water,  set it on a sharp fire,
stirring it; do not let it get brown, or it would spoil, and lose its flavor;
it will take but a few minutes to do; when tender, put it in a basin to cool; a
few minutes before serving fill the vol-au-vent with it, and serve cold. 
 
 Sweet Vol-au-vent with green
 Goose-berries  .--A quart of  green gooseberries,  a quarter
of a pound of  powdered sugar,  the  juice  of half a  lemon, 
and a table-spoonful of  water;  put on the fire and move it about for ten
minutes, or till tender, and forming a thick green  marmalade;  put it in
a basin till cold; serve in pyramid in the vol-au-vent; a little thick
 syrup,  if handy, poured over, im proves the appearance. 
 
 Sweet Vol-au-vent with  Orange  .--Well peel six
 oranges,  removing all the pith, divide each into six or eight pieces,
put them in a pan, with a quarter of a pound of  sugar,  and the
 juice  of an  orange,  set it on a slow fire, with the cover on,
stir it now and then--ten minutes will be sufficient time for it; take out the
pieces one after the other, lay them in a basin, reduce your  syrup  to a
proper thickness; when ready to serve, dish your pieces of  orange  in it,
and pour over the  syrup.  
 
 
  1276.--COCOA-NUT
CUSTARD. Boil one quart of  milk,  when it boils sift in three
table-spoonfuls of  farina.  Take off the fire, stir in one-quarter of a
pound of  butter,  and let it stand until quite cold. Beat six
 eggs,  the  yolks  and  whites  separate, until very light; add
to the  yolks  three-quarters of a pound of  sugar,  and the grated
 pulp  of one cocoa- nut.  Stir the mixture into the boiled
 milk,  add the beaten  whites of the eggs,  line tin pie plates with
a nice crust, fill with the mixture, and bake. 
 
 
  1277.--SMALL FRUIT
TARTS. The next in order to sweet vol-au-vents, and which are easier
to make, are tartlets, their appearance being inviting, and their expense
limited, and very easy to serve. They may be made from the trimmings of any
 puff paste  which re mains, and should be enveloped in  paper,  and
kept in a cold place, or in the  flour -tub. Make them as follows:--Have
ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, which  butter,  line each with a
bit of  puff paste  cut with a cutter the size of a crown-piece, force up
the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball (made of  flour 
and  water ) in each, bake them nicely in a very hot oven; when done, take
out the ball (which may be kept for other occasions) from the tartlets, and
shake  powdered sugar  over the bottom of each, and glaze with a
salamander,   turn them over, and shake
 sugar  in the interior, which also salamander; fill with any kind of
 preserve,   marmalade,  or  fruit,  for sweet vol-au-vents.
They may be made with  cream  as follows:--Make your tartlets as before,
placing  cream  instead of the ball of  flour,  made thus:--Put half
a pint of  milk  in a stewpan, when boiling, add half a stick of
 vanilla,  reduce the  milk  to half in another stewpan, have the
 yolks of two eggs  and a quarter of an ounce of  powdered sugar, 
and one ounce of sifted  flour,  with a grain of  salt,  pour in the
 milk,  taking out the  vanilla,  place over a slow fire, keep
stirring till it thickens; when cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely in a
moderate oven; when cold, add a little jam, have ready a meringue of four
 eggs,  lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, spreading it quite flat with
a knife; ornament the top with some of the mixture, put into a paper cornet,
sift  sugar  over, place in a slow oven till a light brown color, and the
meringue quite crisp; if the oven be too hot, cover with  paper,  dress,
and serve in pyramid on a dish. They should be light-colored. 
 
 
  1278.--LEMON
TARTLETS. Pare, rather thick, the  rinds  of four  lemons, 
which boil tender in two waters, and beat fine; add to it four ounces of
blanched  almonds  cut thin, four ounces of  lump-sugar,  the juice of
the  lemons,  and a little grated peel; simmer to a  syrup;  when
cold, turn it into a shallow tin  tart  dish lined with a rich thin
 puff paste,  and lay bars of  paste  over; as soon as the
 paste  is baked, serve it. 
 
 
  1279.--GREEN APRICOT
TARTLETS. When the wall- fruit  trees are thinned, take the
thinnings before the stone is formed; stew them gently in  sugar  and
 water.  When tender, reduce and thicken the  syrup,  and put it with
the  fruit  into pattypans; or, if covered with a  paste,  it is then
called a pie. This also applies to  grapes.  
 
 
  1280.--PRUNE TART. Give
 prunes  a scald, take out the stones and break them; put the kernels into
a little  cranberry -juice, with the  prunes  and  sugar :
simmer, and when cold make a  tart  of the  sweetmeat.  
 It must be almost needless to say that tartlets of  damsons, 
 plums,  and most sorts of stone- fruit,  may be made in the same
manner. 
 
 
  1281.--TARTLETS À LA
PAGANINI. Beat up the  whites of three eggs  to a froth, and then
add five ounces of pounded  sugar;  beat it well up, and have your
pattypans ready covered with  paste,  upon which put any quantity you
please of jam or  marmalade;  bake them for about a half an hour, and when
done fill them with the  whip.  This quantity will fill sixteen pattypans
of a small size. 
 
 
  1282.--TO PREPARE CRANBERRIES
FOR TARTS. Simmer them in  moist sugar,  without breaking, twenty
minutes; and let them become cold before being used. A pint will require nearly
three ounces of  sugar.  
 
 
  1288.--ALMOND
PASTE. Take a pound of  sweet almonds,  blanch them in  boiling
water;  take off the peel, and let them soak in  cold water  four
hours, then pound them well in a mortar; add a little  water  to prevent
them from turning to  oil;  after they are very fine and quite in a
 paste,  put in three-quarters of a pound of  sugar  well pounded,
and mix all together in the mortar. If your  paste  is quite fine, take it
out of the mortar, put it into a stewpan over a slow fire, and stir it with a
wooden spoon till it becomes  white  and dry; then put it again into the
mortar, and mix with it a  little melted gum that
has been strained through a towel; take care to keep it covered, to prevent it
drying. You may give what scent you please, as  lemon,   vanilla, 
rose,  orange,  &c. &c. If you use  almond-paste  to make
vases, baskets, or tartlets, keep it always free from dust, spread it on a
marble with a rolling-pin as thin as possible, and if you put it into a mould,
 butter  the mould lightly, and give the  paste  the form of it. Bake
in a moderate oven. 
  Almond-paste  should always be kept in a gallipot, covered with a damp
towel to prevent its drying. 
 
 
  1284.--TARTLETS OF ALMOND
PASTE.  Butter  some tartlet-moulds, and after having spread the
 paste  on the dresser, cut it with a cutter to the size of the moulds;
put a little  sweetmeat  in the middle, and a small rosette in the middle
of that. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 
  1285.--TARTLETS OF ALMOND PASTE
WITH STRAWBERRIES. Spread some  almond-paste  over the
pastry-table, and cut it with a fluted cutter the same size as other tartlets;
 butter  slightly the moulds, and put them into a moderate oven. When the
 paste  is done almost  white,  take them out of the mould, and
garnish with  currant jelly,   raspberry  or  apricot jam, 
&c. &c. When the  sweetmeats  do not go to the oven, they are
always of a better color and taste. 
 
 
  1286.--APRICOT SWEETMEAT FOR
TARTS. Take a pound of ripe  apricots,  remove the stones, break
them and blanch the kernels, add one pound and a half of  green gages  and
one pound and a quarter of lump  sugar;  simmer it until the  fruit 
becomes a jam. It must not boil, and must be kept well skimmed;  clarified
sugar  will be found the best to use for this  preserve.  
 
 
  1287.--GOOSEBERRY (GREEN)
TART. Use either whole  gooseberries;  or make a  marmalade 
of them with a good  syrup;  the last method is perhaps the best, as you
can tell easily how sweet they are and ought to be; if made of  marmalade 
the  seeds  ought to be taken out.  Green currants  and  grapes 
the same way. 
 
 
  1288.--ORANGE
TARTS. Take some  oranges,  pare them very thin, soak them in
 water  for two or three days, changing the  water  often, then boil
them till they become soft and lose their bitterness; when cold cut a thick
slice off the top and bottom, and the rest the thickness of a crown piece; line
the  tart  let-pans with  puff paste,  and fill them with layers of
 sugar  and  orange  alternately. 
  Pears,   raspberries,   cherries,  &c., are simply put
into the  paste  with  sugar,  and baked. 
 
 
  1289.--CROUSTADE OR DRESDEN
PATTIES. Slice some  stale bread  about half an inch thick; cut
from it, with a round  paste -cutter, as many croustades as will be
required: mark the centres with a smaller cutter, scoop out the insides as in
 paste  patties, then fry them a light brown, drain them well, and fill
them with any hot compote of  fruit  or hot pre serve. The croustade may
be filled with any sort of minced  meat  or  fowl  and served as an
entree in the first course. They are very nice made with the rounds of a
 French roll;  it should be pared very thin, then cut in rounds of such
thickness, as to allow the centres to be taken out; dip them in  milk, 
and let them drain; do not let them break; brush then with  egg,  and sift
the rasping of the roll over them; fry, them a pale brown, and fill with
 oysters,   stewed mushrooms,  &c., or, as above, with
 fruit  or  preserve.  
  
 
  1290.--PATTIES RESEMBLING MINCE
PIES. Chop the  kidney  and  fat of cold veal, 
 apple,   orange,  and  lemon-peel  candied, fresh
 currants,  a little  wine,  two or three  cloves,  a little
 brandy,  and a bit of  sugar.  Bake as before. 
 
 
  1291.--PATTIES WITH
CURDS. Take some very  rich milk,  put into it some
 lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  place it on the fire that it may
curdle, drain off the  whey  through a sieve; add to the curds the  yolk
of an egg  beaten up in two spoonfuls of  milk,  a few  currants, 
and a little pounded  cinnamon.  Make the  paste  and prepare the
patties in the same way as in the preceding receipt. 
 
 
  1292.--CHEESECAKES. Strain the  whey  from
the curd of two quarts of  milk;  when rather dry crumble it through a
coarse sieve, and mix with six ounces of fresh  butter,  one ounce of
pounded blanched  almonds,  a little  orange-flower water,  half a
glass of  raisin wine,  a grated  biscuit,  four ounces of
 currants,  some  nutmeg  and  cinnamon  in fine powder, and
beat all the above with three  eggs  and half a pint of  cream  till
quite light: then line the pattypans with a thin  puff paste,  and fill
them three parts full. 
 
 
  1293.--BREAD
CHEESECAKES. Slice a loaf as thin as possible, pour on it a pint of
boiling  cream,  let it stand two hours; then take eight  eggs,  half
a pound of  butter  and a  nutmeg  grated, beat them well together,
put in half a pound of  currants  well washed and dried before the fire,
and bake them in raised crusts or pattypans. 
 
 
  1294.--MISS BRATTY'S
CHEESECAKES. The  yolks of eight eggs,  eight ounces of
 sugar  finely powdered and sifted, eight ounces of  sweet almonds 
powdered, beat all together till very  white.  Line the pans with a thin
 paste;  immediately before you put them into the oven, mix the size of a
 walnut of butter  melted into them over a fire. If the oven be too hot,
they will fall when taken out. 
 
 Or: --Ten  eggs,  leave out half the
 whites,  one pound of  sugar  finely powdered and sifted, half a
pound of  flour,  three ounces of  butter,  three ounces of  sweet
almonds,  with a glass of  brandy  put into them while they are
pounding. Beat them all together, and  butter  the pans very well. 
 
 
  1295.--LEMON
CHEESECAKES. Mix four ounces of sifted lump  sugar  and four
ounces of  butter,  and gently melt it; then add the  yolks  of two
and the  white of one egg,  the  rind  of three  lemons  shred
fine, and the  juice  of one and a half one  Savoy biscuit,  some
blanched  almonds  pounded, three spoonfuls of  brandy.  
 
 
  1296.--ORANGE
CHEESECAKES. When you have blanched half a pound of  almonds, 
beat them very fine, with  orange-flower water,  half a pound of fine
 sugar  beaten and sifted, and one pound of  butter  that has been
melted carefully without oiling, and which must be nearly cold before you use
it; then beat the  yolks  of ten and  whites of four eggs;  pound two
 candied oranges,  and a fresh one with the bitterness boiled out, till as
tender as  marmalade,  without any lumps; beat the whole together, and put
into pattypans. 
 
 
  1297.--ALMOND
CHEESECAKES. Press the  whey  from as much curd as will fill two
dozen small pattypans; then put it on the back of a sieve, and with half an
ounce of  butter,  rub it through with the back of a spoon; put to it six
 yolks  and three  whites of eggs,  and a few  almonds   of both sorts pounded, with as much  sugar  as will
make the curd properly sweet; mix with these a  wine -glassful of
 sherry  or  Madeira,  in which boil the  rind of a Seville
orange,  if you can get one; or, if not, a large ripe one of the common
kind, with all its  juice.  Beat all gradually together, and when
thoroughly blended fill the pattypans; the baking will take from a quarter of
an hour to twenty minutes. 
 
 
  1298.--POTATO
CHEESECAKE. Four ounces of  butter,  the same of pounded
 sugar,  six ounces of  potatoes  boiled and  flour ed through a
sieve, the  rind  of one  lemon,  and half the  juice,  unless
acid is desirable; mix these in gredients well together, with two  eggs, 
and fill the  tart -pan and bake it. 
 
  Potato Cheese   is celebrated in various parts
of Europe. It is made thus:-- Boil good  white potatoes,  and when cool, peel
them and rasp or mash them to a light  pulp;  to five pounds of this,
which must be free from lumps, add a pint of  sour milk  and  salt 
to taste; knead the whole well, cover it, and leave it for three or four days,
according to the season; then knead it afresh, and put the cheeses into small
baskets, when they will part with their superfluous moisture; dry them in the
shade, and place them in layers in large pots or kegs, where they may remain a
fortnight. The older they are, the finer they become. This  cheese,  it is
said, never engenders worms, and in well closed vessels, in a dry place, will
keep for years. (This receipt is from an old English work). 
 
 
  1299.--CHEESECAKE-STOCK, THAT
WILL KEEP FOB SEVERAL YEARS. To a quarter of a pound of  butter 
put one pound of  loaf-sugar  broken into small pieces, six  eggs, 
leaving out two  whites,  the  rind  of three  lemons  grated,
and the  juice  of three; put them all into a pan, and let them simmer
over the fire until the  sugar  is dissolved; and it begins to thicken
like  honey.  When cold put it into  sweetmeat  pots for use. When
made into cheesecakes, add grated sweet  biscuits.  
 Line the small tartlet pans used for these small cakes with good, but not
too light, puff- paste : make them of a deep yellow color, and put on each
a strip of  candied citron.  
 
 
  1300.--ICING FOR FRUIT PIES AND
TARTS. The common mode is to take the  white of an egg,  whisked
to a froth, mixed thickly with pounded  sugar,  and laid on with a quill
feather. For larger tarts it should, however, be laid on more thickly, and
comfits or  lemon-peel  may be stuck into it. 
 
 
  1301 --SOYER'S
CHEESECAKES. Take four quarts of  milk  and turn it with some
fresh runnet; when dry crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a
bowl, beat it well up with a quarter of a pound of  butter  until it is
quite smooth (it may require a little more  butter,  depending on the
quality of the  milk ); mix in another bowl the  yolks of four eggs 
and a quarter of a pound of very fine sifted  biscuit -powder, the
 rind  of four  lemons,  the  juice  of two, a quar ter of a
pound of  powdered sugar  (some add a little grated  nutmeg  or
 cinnamon ), beat these all well up together until form ing a stiff
 cream,  then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd, and mix them well
together; line some tartlet pans, previously buttered, with some  paste, 
and place some of the above mixture in, and bake quick. In some places
 milk  is used instead of  eggs.  Should you not have rennet, procure
some good  milk  and turn it with the  juice of a lemon  or a
teaspoonful of  soda  or culinary alkali  to
a quart of  milk;  drain the curd, and proceed as before. 
 
 
  1302.--RICHMOND MAIDS OF
HONOR. These delicious little cakes, which every inhabitant of London
who pays a visit to the most picturesque part of its environs knows so well,
derive their name from a period when cookery was not thought to be a degrading
occupation for those honored with that title. It is stated that they originated
with the maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who had a palace at Richmond. 
 Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it well with six ounces of good
 butter,  break the  yolks of four eggs  into another basin, and a
glass of  brandy;  add to it six ounces of powdered lump- sugar,  and
beat well together one very floury baked  potato  cold, one ounce of
 sweet almonds,  one ounce of bitter ditto pounded, the grated  rind 
of three  lemons,  the  juice  of one, and half a  nutmeg 
grated, mix these well together and add to the curds and  butter;  stir
well up, and proceed as before, filling the tartlet pans. 
 
 
  1303.--PUDDINGS. There
are two different sorts of  paste  for puddings, one for 
  meat   and the other for 
  fruit  . 
 
 For  Meat  Pudding .--To one pound of
 flour  add eight ounces of finely chopped  beef-suet  cut from the
 kidney.  Mix it with  water  but do not wet it too much: after
mixing it well together with a wooden spoon, roll out the  paste  and put
in the  meat;  then close it; boil it in a cloth which has been
 flour ed, tie it up, but leave sufficient room to permit the swelling of
the  paste.   Veal-suet  may also be used, but that of  beef  is
better; or a mixture of both is not bad. If puddings be boiled in shapes, the
crust is not near so light. 
 
 For  Fruit  Puddings  the  paste  should be
made as for a pie--using 
  butter   instead of 
  suet  ; but unless for the sake of ap pearance,
they should never be boiled in shapes. A very little  salt  added to all
 paste  much improves it. 
 
 Sweet Pudding .--Very good puddings may be made 
 without  eggs  ; but they should have very
little liquid added to them, and must boil longer than puddings 
 with  eggs  . A spoonful of  yeast  will
serve instead of two  eggs,  and a pinch of  soda  will make it still
lighter. Two large spoonfuls of snow will supply the place of one  egg, 
and make a pudding equally good. This is a useful piece of information, as snow
generally falls in the season when  eggs  are dear. The sooner it is used
after it falls the better; but it may be taken up from a clean spot, and kept
in a cool place some hours, without losing its good qualities. Bottled
malt-liquors are also a good substitute for  eggs;  the sooner used after
the cork is drawn the better.  Eggs  should always be broken separately
into a cup before they are thrown together, as a single bad one might occasion
the loss of a great many without this precaution: the  yolks  and
 whites,  beaten long and separately, make the article they are put into
much lighter. They must always be strained after beating. 
 To avoid repetition, let it be observed that, when 
 pudding  sauce   is ordered,  wine, 
 sugar,  and very thick melted but ter, boiled up together, is the
 sauce  in tended. 
 If the pudding be partly of  bread,  the cloth should be tied so as to

allow for swelling; if of  flour,  rather more tight. 
 Basins or forms are much better in ap pearance than cloths for boiling
puddings, but it makes them far less light. 
 The  water  should boil quickly, when the pudding is put in, and care
taken that it continues to do so, or the pudding 
will be heavy; and it should be moved about for a minute or two, that the in
gredients may not separate. 
 All dishes in which puddings are baked should be lined with  paste  an
inch or two below the edge, as well as on it; the dish must be first rubbed
with  butter.  If a pudding is to be turned out from a mould, it must be
entirely lined with  paste.  
 The ingredients of puddings should not be put into the basin or dish till
the minute they go into the  water  or oven. 
 
  Sago,   and 
 all sorts of  seeds,   should lie in
 water  an hour before they are made into puddings, and be well washed;
the want of this caution causes an earthy taste. 
 If the  butter  be strong that is used in puddings, they will not taste
well, whatever good things are added. 
 A small pinch of  salt  improves the flavor of all mixtures, even when
the other ingredients are sweet. 
 Well-made  raisin  or Cape  wine  will serve in most cases, when
 wine  is order ed for puddings. 
 As the goodness of boiled puddings greatly depends upon keeping the
ingredients closely but not too compactly together, the cook should take care
to have moulds and basins in readiness that will exactly hold the quantity
directed. 
 Puddings of  bread  or  flour  are much better if all the
ingredients be mixed (except the  eggs ) three hours before boiling or
baking; and they should be well stirred just before they are put into the oven
or saucepan. 
  Plum -puddings are best boiled in a stout cloth well  flour ed;
care should be taken that it does not burn to the bottom of the kettle; to
prevent this put a plate at the bottom. When the pudding is of a large size it
is best to mix all but the liquid ingredients the day before it is boiled. 
 When  butter  is ordered to be put warm into puddings, the addition of
a little  milk  or  wine  will prevent its oiling. 
 
 Custard Puddings  to look well should 
 simmer  only, but without stopping. If boiled in a
quick or careless manner the surface will not be smooth, but have little holes
like honey-comb all over it. A sheet of writing- paper,  thickly buttered,
should be put on the top of the mould before the lid or cloth is put on. and
the pudding should stand in the mould five minutes after being lifted from the
 water.  Many persons prefer their puddings steamed, but when this is not
done they should be put into plenty of  boiling water,  and kept well
covered. 
 Half an hour should be allowed for boiling a 
  bread -pudding  in a half-pint basin, and so on
in proportion; but pud dings made up with half a pound of  suet  and any
other ingredients, will require two hours. 
 
 
  1304.--SUET
PUDDINGS. Finely chop one pound of  beef suet  5 mix with it one
pound and a quarter of  flour,  two  eggs  well beaten, a little
 salt,  and as little  milk  as will mix it. Boil four hours. It eats
well next day cut in slices and fried, and may be eaten either with  salt 
or  sugar.  
 
 Or: --Take eight ounces of grated  bread,  three
ounces of finely chopped  suet,  and four ounces of pounded
 loaf-sugar,  the  juice  and grated  peel of two lemons,  and
one  egg  well beaten; mix all together; put it into a buttered basin, and
boil one hour; or make it into dump lings, and boil twenty minutes. Serve with
 wine sauce.  
 
 Of  
  veal-suet,   cut the crumb of a loaf into
slices; boil and sweeten two quarts of  new milk,  and pour over it. When
soaked, pour out a little of the  milk,  and mix with six  eggs 
well  beaten and half a  nutmeg.  Lay the
slices of  bread  into a dish, with layers of  currants  and finely
chopped  veal-suet,  one pound of each.  Butter  the dish well, and
bake; or you may boil it in a basin if you prefer it. 
 
 Balls of  suet -pudding,  not larger than the
size of an  egg,  are put into  gravy  soup. They will take from
twenty min utes to half an hour boiling; in that time they will be done
through, and so light as to swim to the top. They may be also served
separately, and are an excellent accompaniment to  corned beef.  
 
 
  1305.--BAKED CHICKEN
PUDDING. Cut up a pair of young  chickens,  and season them with
 pepper  and  salt,  a little  nutmeg  and  allspice.  Put
them into a pot with two large spoonfuls of  butter,  and  water 
enough to cover them. Stew them gently, and when about half cooked, take them
out and set them away to cool. Pour off the  gravy,  and reserve it to be
served up separately. Make batter of a pound of sifted  flour,  stirred
gradually into a quart of  milk,  six  eggs  well beaten and added by
degrees to the mixture with a very little  salt.  Put a layer of
 chicken  into a very deep dish, and pour over it some of the batter; then
another layer of  chicken  and another of batter; having a cover of batter
at the top. Bake till brown. Break an  egg  into the reserved
 sauce,  boil up, and serve it in a  sauce  tureen to eat with the
pudding. 
 
 
  1306.--BEEFSTEAK
PUDDING. Of all  savory  puddings perhaps those made with
 beef  are the best. The following is the mode of making them in all the
clubs:-- 
 Take from one pound to one pound and a half of the inside of a  sirloin of
beef,  or the same quantity of  rump-steak,  cutting off part of the
 fat : beat it until tender, cut it thin, and divide it into small slices
along with two  mutton kidneys  or one  veal kidney;  to these add a
dozen of native  oysters,  bearded. The whole is then seasoned with
 pepper  and  salt  and a minced shalot. Boil it from two and a half
to three hours. When done have ready some strong  beef gravy,   made
savory  with a little  mushroom  ket chup; make a hole in the
 paste  and pour it into the pudding. 
  If for a 
 family pudding,  the  oysters  and the
 kidneys  may be omitted: let the  steak  be prepared as above,
adding, if you choose, some layers of sliced  onions.   
 
 
  1307.--PLUM
PORRIDGE. Boil eight pounds of  shin of beef  for five hours in a
gallon of  water,  skimming carefully throughout, and finally straining
off the liquor; add two pounds of  meat  cut small. Soften the crumb of a
small loaf in some of the liquor, beat it smooth, thicken the soup with it, add
half a pound of stoned  raisins,  the same quantity of stoned
 prunes,  a pound of well washed  currants,  and grated
 nutmeg,   pepper,  and  mace  to taste and boil until the
 fruit  is soft, then serve. 
 
 
  1308.--YORKSHIRE
PUDDING. Make a batter with a pint of  milk,  four  eggs, 
and four table-spoonfuls of  flour,  seasoned with  salt.  It is to
be well stirred, and put into the pan under roasting  beef  or baked
 beef,  to be cooked with the  drippings.  It will bake in about two
hours. Serve it in pieces round the  meat,  on the same dish. 
 
 
  1309.--GAME
PUDDINGS.  Game  of any description may be made into puddings,
and when partly boned, well spiced, with minced  truffle  or mush room,
 mace,  and a  clove of garlic,  and boiled within a light
 paste,  they are very rich, and the  paste  particularly fine, as it
absorbs so much of the  gravy;  but the 
boiling deprives the  game  of much of its high flavor, and a
 woodcock  or a snipe should never be so dressed, as they lose all the
savor of the trail. 
 
 Or : Make a batter with  flour,   milk, 
 eggs,   pepper,  and  salt;  pour a little into the bottom of a
pudding-dish; then put seasoned poultry or  game  of any kind into it, and
a little shred  onion;  pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in
a slow oven. 
 A single  chicken,   partridge,  or  pigeon  may be thus made
into a dumpling:-- Stuff it with chopped  oysters,  lay it on its back in
the  paste,  and put a bit of  butter  rolled in  flour  on the
 breast;  close the  paste  in the form of a dumpling, put into
 hot water,  and let it boil for two hours. 
 
 
  1310.--MARROW
PUDDING. Grate the inside of part of a stale loaf. Make a quart of
 milk  quite hot, and pour over it, letting it remain till it is
sufficiently swelled and soaked. Shred half a pound of  marrow,  or good
 suet,  and beat up four  eggs.  Pick and plump up two ounces of
 currants,  and stone two ounces of the best  raisins.  Mix them all
up together; stir in a few blanched al monds, and a little  candied
citron,  and  orange  and  lemon peel.  Sweeten the pudding to
your taste, and season it with grated  nutmeg  and powdered
 cinnamon.  Cover a stoneware, flat dish, round the edge, with a shred of
puff- paste,  and mark it neatly. If baked in a flat dish, twenty-five
minutes will be sufficient; if in a deep dish it will require half an hour. A
little finely pounded lump  sugar  is sometimes strewed over the top, and
blanched  almonds,  sliced, stuck round for ornament. This is a very light
and de licate baked pudding. It is sometimes boiled in a shape.--This makes a
delicious dish. 
 
 
  1311.--HERB
PUDDING. Pick two handfuls of  parsley -leaves from the steins,
half the quantity of  spinach,  two  hearts  of lettuces, a large
handful of  mustard  and cress, a few leaves of  white beet,  and a
small handful of  chives : wash, and boil all together three minutes;
drain the  water  from them, and mash very fine; mix well, and add
 salt  and  pepper.  Have ready a batter, made of one ounce of
 flour,  a pint of thin  cream  and two  eggs;  stir it into the
 herbs,  and cover the dish with a good crust.   This pudding has much
the flavor of omelet; and in Lent, when the salads are all coming into season,
it may be very aptly brought to table on fast-days. 
 
  Tansy -Pudding .--Pound a handful of  green
tansy  in a mortar; add the  juice  to a pint of batter and bake
it. 
 
 
  1312.--GOOSE
PUDDING. Half a pound of  bread-crumbs  soaked in a little
boiling  milk,  when cold, add two or three  eggs,  a little
 salt,   pepper,   marjoram,  and  thyme,  a spoonful of
 oat meal,  a good handful of  suet,  and an  onion  chopped
fine. Spread it in a dripping-pan, and bake it under the  goose.  
 
 
 SWEET PUDDINGS. 
 Under this head the plum-pudding stands foremost as a truly national dish.
The following receipt, communicated by a man-cook of much experience, we can
vouch for as an excellent way of making a 
 
  1313.--RICH PLUM
PUDDING. Stone carefully one pound of the best  raisins,  wash
and pick one pound of  currants, 
 *  chop very small one pound of fresh   beef suet,  blanch and chop small or pound two
ounces of  sweet almonds  and one ounce of bitter ones; mix the whole well
together, with one pound of sifted  flour,  and the same weight of
 crumb of bread  soaked in  milk,  then squeezed dry and stirred with
a spoon until reduced to a mash, before it is mixed with the  flour.  Out
in small pieces two ounces each of  preserved citron,   orange,  and
 lemon-peel,  and add a quarter of an ounce of  mixed spice : a
quarter of a pound of  moist sugar  should be put into a basin, with eight
 eggs,  and well beaten together with a three-pronged fork; stir this with
the pudding, and make it of a proper consistence with  milk.  Remember
that it must not be made too thin, or the  fruit  will sink to the bottom,
but be made to the consistence of good thick batter. Two  wine -glassfuls
of  brandy  should be poured over the  fruit  and  spice,  mixed
together in a basin, and allowed to stand three or four hours before the
pudding is made, stirring them occasionally. It must be tied in a cloth, and
will take five hours of constant boiling. When done, turn it out on a dish,
sift  loaf-sugar  over the top, and serve it with  wine-sauce  in a
boat, and some poured round the pudding. 
 The pudding will be of considerable size, but half the quantity of
materials, used in the same proportion, will be equally good. 
 In addition to the  wine-sauce,  have a metal  sauce -boat filled
with  brandy;  set it alight on the table, and pour a portion of it in a
flame upon each slice of pudding. 
 The bellow note appeared at the bottom of page 439-440 in the original
text. 
 *The best method of cleansing  currants  is to
put them into a common colander, over a pan with suf ficient  water  to
cover them, rub them well between the hands in the  water  to separate the
knobs, and stir them about. The small sand and gravel will then fall through
the holes and sink to the bottom of the pan. After being washed clean, and the
 water  drained from them the large stones can then be easily picked out
by sorting them over on a large dish. 
 
 
  1314.--ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING.
(Original) One pound of fine  white flour,  sifted; add a little
 salt;  one pound of  beef suet  chopped as fine as meal, one pound
of  brown sugar,  one pound of stoned rai sins, one pound of Zante
 currants,  three-quarters of a pound of  citron,  one  nutmeg, 
one teaspoonful of  allspice,  one ditto of  cloves,  two ditto of
 mace,  grate in the  rind  of three large fresh  lemons.  Weigh
each article after it is prepared, allowing for the moisture in the
 currants  as they cannot be dried perfectly. Mix the ingredients together
very thorough ly; first, the  flour  and  suet --then add the other
articles and rub the mixture again; this should be done the day be fore the
pudding is to be cooked. 
 Immediately before the final mixture, add ten  eggs,  well beaten, one
gill of  milk  and one of  brandy.  Tie the mix ture in a well
buttered cloth, and boil for seven hours. The cloth used should be very
strong. 
 To be served with brandy- sauce,  and brought to the table in burning
 brandy.  
 
 
  1315.--THE BAKED PLUM
PUDDING. Ten  crackers  soaked in  milk,  five  eggs, 
one pound of  raisins,  half a pound of  suet,  half a pound of
chopped  apple,  two glasses of  brandy,  dark  spice  and
 mace,   salt  to the taste--half a pound of  citron, 
 sugar  to the taste. Bake three hours and serve with  cold
sauce.  
 
 
  1816.--GROUND RICE
PUDDING.  (Mrs. G.'s Receipt).  Boil half a
pound of  rice  in five pints of  milk  5 add half a pound of
 butter,  three-quarters of  sugar,  ten  eggs,  two
 nutmegs,  and  mace  with a little  salt : bake in a dish. 
 
 
  1317.--MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.
(Furnished by a Lady of New York.) Stew eighteen  apples  and
strain them; add a quarter of a pound of melted  butter,  with
 rosewater,  ten  eggs,  the  juice  and  rind  of two
 lemons,   sugar  to taste, and bake in  paste.  
  
 
  1318.--BOSTON
PUDDING. Make a good common  paste  with a pound and a half of
 flour,  and three-quarters of a pound of  butter.  When you roll it
out the last time, cut off the edges till you get the sheet of  paste  of
an even square shape. Have ready some  fruit,  sweetened to your taste. If
 cranberries,   gooseberries,   dried peaches,  or
 damsons;  they should be stewed, and made very sweet. If  apples, 
they should be stewed in a very little  water,  drained, and seasoned with
 nutmeg,   rosewater,  and  lemon.  If  currants, 
 raspberries,  or  blackberries,  they should be mashed with
 sugar,  and put into the pudding raw. Spread the  fruit  very thick,
all over the sheet of  paste  (which must not be rolled out too thin).
When it is covered all over with the  fruit,  roll it up and close the
dough at both ends, and down the last side. Tie the pudding in a cloth, and
boil it. Eat it with  sugar.  It must not be taken out of the pot till
just be fore it is brought to table. 
 
 
  1319.--ALMOND PUDDING AND
SAUCE. A large cupful of finely-minced  beef suet,  a teacupful
of  milk,  four ounces of  bread-crumbs,  four ounces of well cleaned
 currants,  two ounces of  almonds,  half a pound of stoned
 raisins,  three well beaten  eggs,  and the  whites  of other
two;  sugar,   nutmeg,  and  cinnamon,  and a small glass of
 rum.   Butter  a shape, and place part of the  raisins  neatly
in rows. Blanch the  almonds;  reserve the half of them to be placed in
rows between the  raisins  just before serving. Mix all the remaining
ingredients well together, put into the shape, and boil three hours. The 
  sauce  --one teaspoonful of  milk,  and
two  yolks of eggs  well beaten, and some  sugar;  place on the fire
and stir till it 
 just comes to the boil,  then let it cool. When
lukewarm, stir into it a glass of  sherry  or  currant wine,  and
serve in a  sauce  tureen. This  sauce  is a great improvement to
 raisin  pudding. 
 
 
  1320.--POLKA
PUDDING. Mix four table-spoonfuls of  arrow-root  in a pint of
 cold milk.  Beat four  eggs  well, add them, three ounces of fresh
 butter,  cut into small bits; a dessertspoonful of  rosewater;  a
few drops of  essence of lemon,  or ratafia, and a tea-cupful of
 sugar.  Boil two pints of  milk  in a saucepan; when boiling stir in
the other ingredients; without taking the pan off the fire, let it boil till
thick, then pour into a mould to cool. Turn it out and serve it cold. 
 
 
  1321.--JENNY LIND'S
PUDDING. Grate the crumb of half a loaf,  butter  and dish well
and lay in a thick layer of the crumbs; pare ten or twelve  apples,  cut
them down, and put a layer of them and  sugar;  then crumbs alternately,
until the dish is full; put a bit of  butter  on the top, and bake it in
an oven, or American reflector. An excellent and economical pudding. 
 
 
  1322.--NEWCASTLE
PUDDING.  Butter  a basin or mould, stick it all round with
sultanas or  dried cherries,  then put in a slice of  bread-crumb 
soaked in  milk,  and over that layers of thin  bread-crumb 
buttered, until three parts filled; fill up with custard, and boil for an hour
and a half. 
 
 
  1323.--RICHELIEU
PUDDING. Steep the crumb of a large slice of  bread  in
 milk,  warm as from the  cow;  let it rest, and then strain off the
 milk;  beat up the  yolk of an egg,  mix it with the  bread, 
also a bit of  butter;  put it into a saucepan, and boil till it becomes
stiff; let it cool, and then add some chopped  parsley,   thyme, 
 pepper  and  salt;  beat up two  eggs;  mince about one  pound of any  cold meat,  and add all to
gether. Boil in a basin for three hours, and when dished, pour a good
 gravy  over it. 
 
 
  1824.--PARADISE
PUDDING. Take three  eggs,  three  apples  pared, cored, and
cut small, three ounces each of the crumb of  French rolls,   sugar, 
and  currants,  a little  nutmeg  and  salt,  the  rind of a
lemon  pared 
 very thin  and cut very fine, and a
wine-glassful of  brandy  or  white wine;  stir well, pour
into a buttered mould, and boil for an hour; then serve with melted
 butter,   wine  and  sugar.  
 
 
  1325.--HASTY
PUDDING. Set some  milk  on the fire, and, when it boils, put in
a little  salt.  Stir in by degrees as much  flour  as will make it
of a proper thickness. Let it boil quickly a few minutes, beating it constantly
while on the fire. Pour it into a dish, and eat it with  cold butter  and
 sugar.  Some persons add  eggs  to this. 
 
 
  1326.--HASTY
PUDDING. Boil  water,  a quart, three pints, or two quarts,
according to the size of your family; sift your meal, stir five or six
spoonfuls of it thoroughly into a bowl of  water;  when the  water 
in the kettle boils, pour into it the contents of the bowl; stir it well and
let it boil up thick; put in  salt  to suit your own taste, then stand
over the kettle, and sprinkle in meal, handful after handful, stirring it very
thoroughly all the time, and letting it boil between whiles. When it is so
thick that you stir it with difficulty it is about right. It takes about half
an hour's cooking. Eat it with  milk  or  molasses.  Either  Indian
meal  or  rye meal  may be used. If the system is in a restricted
state, nothing can be better than 
  rye   hasty pudding and 
 West India   molasses.  This diet would save
many a one from the horrors of dyspepsia. 
 
 
  1327.--TO MAKE AN ALMOND
PUDDING. Pound in your mortar a quarter of a pound of  sweet
almonds,  add a table-spoonful of  water  when you are pound ing, take
it out of the mortar; have ready broken seven  eggs,  leaving out five of
the  whites,  add a quarter of a pound of sifted  sugar,  mix all
lightly together; cut in small dice a little candy,  orange,  and
 lemon-peel,   butter  and  paper  a plain mould, or one that
will open; bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 
  1328.--FARINA
PUDDING. One quart of  milk,  six  eggs,  eight
table-spoonfuls of  flour,  three tablespoonfuls of  farina,  one
teaspoonful of  salt.  
 Boil the  milk;  while boiling, sift into it the  farina;  beat
the  eggs, yolks  and  whites  separately; stir into the  yolks 
the  flour  and  salt,  and  cold milk  enough to make a stiff
batter; then stir in the  whites,  and, lastly, the boiling  milk. 
 Butter  a baking dish, and bake for half an hour. Eat with  wine
sauce,  or  sugar  and  butter.  
 
 
  1329.--A BAKED APPLE
DUMPLING. Pare and quarter four large  apples,  boil them tender
with the  rind of a lemon  in so little  water  that nothing may re main
when done but the  juice;  add the crumb of a small roll, four ounces
 butter,  melted, the  yolks  of five and  whites of three
eggs,  the  juice  of half a  lemon,  and  sugar  to taste;
beat all together, and lay it in a dish; then beat the two remain ing
 whites  to a froth, and throw it round the edge of the dish; grate a
little  white sugar  over when baked. 
 
 
  1330.--LEMON
PUDDING. Half a pound of  flour,  or grated  bread,  half a
pound of  suet  cut 
 very  fine, half a pound of  crushed sugar, 
the   rind  of two  lemons,  and the
 juice  of one, two  eggs;  boil it four hours in a shape. Served up
without  sauce  it is excellent. 
 
 
  1331.--A PLAIN RICE
PUDDING. To make a plain  rice  pudding, boil a pint of
 rice  until it is quite soft. Mix two ounces of  butter  and four
table-spoonfuls of  sugar,  a quart of  rich milk  with the
 rice,  boil them up together and let them partially cool. Beat five
 eggs  until they are quite light and stir them into the  rice.  It
should bake about an hour. 
 
 
  1332.--RICE MILK This
dish is an excellent one, and very simply and quickly made. After wash ing a
pint of  rice  in two different waters, boil it well with about half a
pound of  raisins  from which the stems have been carefully picked. Pour
off the  water,  and mix a quart of  rich milk  with the  rice. 
Let it boil for about five minutes, and after mixing with it four table-spoon
fuls of  brown sugar,  beat two  eggs  until they are light, and pour
them into the  milk,  stirring it all the time. After the  rice  and
 eggs  are well mixed together, they should boil from three to five min
utes. If they are not well stirred, the  eggs  will form a custard on the
surface, which is not desirable. 
 
 
  1333.--BIRD'S NEST
PUDDING. If you wish to make what is called "bird's nest puddings,"
prepare your custard,--take eight or ten pleasant ap ples, pare them, dig out
the core, but leave them whole, set them in a pudding-dish, pour your custard
over them, and bake them about thirty minutes. 
 
 
  1334.--ORANGE
PUDDING. Wash half a pound of  butter  until all the  salt 
is extracted, then mix it well with half a pound of powdered  white
sugar,  and a  wine -glass of brandy-- wine  may be used but it is
not as good. Grate the  rind  of three ordinary-sized  oranges  and
squeeze their  juice.  Beat together six fresh  eggs,  and stir them
into the but ter and  sugar,  after which, add the pre pared
 orange.  Lay a border of puff- paste  around the pudding-dish, and
then bake from half to three quarters of an hour. Serve it cold, and grate over
 white sugar  mixed with a little  nutmeg.  The latter ingredient,
however, is not generally preferred. 
 Lemon Pudding  may be made in the same manner;
substituting  lemons  for  oranges.  
 
 
  1335.--QUINCE
PUDDING. Pare six large  quinces,  cut out the cores and
blemishes, chop them as fine as possible, and boil them two hours with as
little  water  as possible, stirring them frequently that they may not
burn. Drain off the  water  and mix them, when cold, with a pint of
 cream  and half a pound of  powdered sugar.  
 
 
  1886.--APPLE
DUMPLINGS. Pare and scoop out the core of six large baking
 apples,  put part of a  clove,  and a little grated
 lemon-peel,  inside of each, and enclose them in pieces of  puff
paste;  boil them in nets for the purpose, or bits of linen, for an hour.
Before serving, cut off a small bit from the top of each, and put in a
tea-spoonful of  sugar,  and a bit of fresh  butter;  replace the bit
of  paste,  and strew over them pounded  loaf sugar.  
 
 
  1337.--BATTER
PUDDING. Into a pint and a half of sifted  flour  stir gradually,
so that it may not be lumpy, a quart of  milk.  Beat seven  eggs, 
and put in, together with a couple  of
table-spoonfuls of melted  butter,  and a couple of teaspoonfuls of
 salt.  Grate in half a  nutmeg --add, if you want the pudding very
rich, half a pound of  raisins.  They should not be put into a baked
pudding till it has been cooking long enough to thicken, so that the
 raisins  will not sink to the bottom of it. A pudding made in this manner
is good either baked or boiled. It takes two hours to boil, and an hour and a
quarter to bake it. When boiled, the bag should not be more than two-thirds
full, as  flour  puddings swell very much. It should be put into
 boiling water,  and kept boiling constantly. If the  water  boils
away, so as to leave any part of the bag uncovered, more  boiling water 
should be added. When the pudding has boiled eight or nine minutes, the bag
should be turned over, otherwise the pudding will be heavy.  Flour 
puddings should be eaten as soon as cooked, as they fall directly. Serve them
up with rich  sauce.  
 
 
  1338.--SAGO
PUDDING. Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of  currants;  and put
in such  spices  as best suit the taste of those who are to eat it. Have
ready six table-spoonfuls of  sago,  picked clean, and soaked for two
hours in  cold water.  Boil the  sago  in a quart of  milk  till
quite soft. Then stir alter nately into the  milk,  a quarter of a pound
of  butter,  and six ounces of powered  sugar,  and set it away to
cool. Beat eight  eggs,  and when they are quite light, stir them
gradually into the  milk,   sago,  &c. Add the  spice,  and
lastly the cur rants; having dredged them well with  flour  to prevent
their sinking. Stir the whole very  hard,  put it into a buttered dish,
and bake it three-quarters of an hour. It may be eaten cold. 
 
 
  1339.--TAPIOCA
PUDDING. To two quarts of warm  milk  put eight table-spoonfuls
of  tapioca,  four beaten  eggs,  a table-spoonful of  butter, 
and  cinnamon  or  mace  to the taste. Mix four table-spoonfuls of
 white powdered sugar  and a  wine -glass of  wine,  and stir it
into the rest of the ingredients. Turn the whole into a pudding dish that has a
lining of pastry and bake it immediately. 
 
 
  1340.--INDIAN
PUDDING. Sift a pint of  Indian meal  and scald it with
 boiling water.  Place over the fire a quart of  milk,  cut up a
quarter of a pound of  butter  and melt it in the hot  milk --add a
pint of  sugar -house molas ses, and mix them together until the
 milk  boils. Stir it into the meal, mixing it well with a wooden spoon.
Beat seven  eggs,  until they are perfectly light, pour them into the bowl
that holds the meal, with ten drops of the  essence of lemon,  or a little
 lemon-juice.  
 Stir the mixture until it seems quite light, and bake it in a moderately hot
oven. 
 
 
  1341.--A BAKED BREAD
PUDDING. This is a very excellent dish when properly mixed. Crumble
half a loaf of  bread,  a stale loaf is preferable, and cut up the crust
as small as possible. Boil a quart of  milk,  cut up a quarter of a pound
of  butter  in slices, and melt it in the hot  milk --add six
table-spoonfuls of  sugar.  Pour the  milk  over the  bread, 
and mix with it a glass of good  brandy.  Brandy in which
 lemon-peel  has been soaked for some time, is the best for this
purpose, and gives a fine flavor to the pudding. Beat seven  eggs  quite
light, and stir them into the mixture. If the pudding is to be placed
immediately in the oven, it is not necessary that the mixture should cool
before the  eggs  are added. 
 This pudding in a brisk oven will bake in less than an hour. 
  
 
  1342.--DEMI-PLUM
PUDDING. Prepare the mould, then add a layer of  plum  pudding,
broken in pieces, that has been left from the previous day, alternately, till
full; fill up with custard, and steam or bake for thirty minutes. The remains
of any kind of pudding may be used thus. 
 
 
  1343.--MACARONI
PUDDING. Simmer an ounce or two of  macaroni  in a pint of
 milk,  with a bit of  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon,  till soft;
put it into a dish with  milk  the  yolk of three eggs  and the
 white  of one, some  sugar,   nut  meg:, a spoonful of
 almond water,  and half a glass of  raisin wine;  put a nice
 paste  round the edge of the dish, and bake it. 
 A layer of  orange marmalade  or rasp  berry jam  may be used
instead of the  almond water  or ratafia. 
 
 
  1344.--OATMEAL
PUDDING. Take a pint of the best  fine oatmeal,  pour a quart of
boiling  milk  over it and let it soak all night; the next day put it in a
basin just large enough to hold it, add two  eggs  beaten, and a little
 salt,  cover it tight with a  flour ed cloth, and boil it an hour
and a half. It may be eaten hot, with  cold butter  and  salt;  or
cold, sliced and toasted. 
 
 
  1345.--GROUND RICE
PUDDING. In a pint of  new milk  boil two dessert spoonfuls of
ground  rice,  adding a small piece of  lemon-peel  and a little
 cinnamon.  Keep it stirring while boiling, and let it boil ten minutes,
then let it cool; when cold add  sugar  to taste, a couple of well beaten
 eggs,  and some  nutmeg.  Line your dish with a  puff paste, 
pour in your  rice,  and bake a light brown. 
 
 
  1346.--PUDDING WITH
FRUIT.  Fruit  puddings are best made in a basin, the basin to be
buttered and lined with the  paste,  and then filled with the
 fruit,  which cover with the  paste;  the  paste  should be
rolled round to the thickness of half an inch, and when the  fruit  is in,
drawn to the centre, and squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose,
and boiled in plenty of  water;  when done, which will be in time
according to the nature of the  fruit  you put in it; serve it either
turned out of the basin or not. The cover should be of the same thickness as
the sides.  Sugar  should be added before being covered. 
 
 
  1347.--COCOA-NUT
PUDDING. Remove the shell of the cocoa- nut  and cut the brown
 skin  away, cut the  nut  in pieces and place it in  cold
water,  remove it and wipe it dry, grate about a quarter of a pound of a
large one, very fine, into a plate. Place in a basin a quarter of a pound of
powdered  white sugar,  and three ounces and a half of fresh
 butter,  stir them together till it becomes like  cream;  add to it
a table-spoonful of  brandy,  and about four drops of either essence of
vanille, or any other essence whose flavor may be preferred. Place the  white
of six eggs  into a bowl, and beat them well up; then add gradually the
 butter  and  sugar,  which keep stirring at the same time; add by
degrees the cocoa- nut.  Cover a pie dish with  puff paste,  place
the mixture in it, and bake in a mode rate oven for about half an hour. Glaze
it with  powdered sugar  and powdered  cinnamon  mixed. 
 
 
  1348.--AN APPLE
CHARLOTTE. Pare and slice a quantity of  apples;  cut off the
crust of a loaf, and cut slices of  bread  and  butter. 
 Butter  the inside of a pie dish, and place  bread  and
 butter  all round; then put in a layer of  apples  sprinkled with
 lemon-peel,  chopped very fine, and a considerable quantity of good   brown sugar.  Then put on a layer of
 bread  and  butter,  and another of  apples, 
 lemon-peel,  and  sugar,  until the dish is full, squeezing over
the  juice of lemons,  so that every part shall be equally fla vored.
Cover up the dish with the crusts of the  bread  and the  peels of the
apples,  to prevent it from browning or burning: bake it one hour and a
quarter; then take off the peels and the crust, and turn it out of the
dish. 
 
 
  1349.--HEDGEHOG--TO
MAKE. Blanch two pounds of  sweet almonds,  pound them to a
 paste  in a mortar, moisten occasionally with canary and  orange-flower
water;  beat the  yolks  of twelve and the  whites of live eggs 
with a pint of  cream  and some  powdered sugar,  put this with the
 almond paste  and half a pound of fresh  butter  in a saucepan, set
it over a stove, and keep it constantly stirring till firm enough to be moulded
into the shape of a hedgehog; stick it full of blanched  almonds  cut
lengthwise into slips and placed in a dish; beat up the  yolks of four
eggs,  put them to a pint of  cream,  sweeten to your taste, stir them
over a slow fire till hot, then pour it round the hedgehog, and let it stand
till cold, serve it. 
 A good  calf 's- foot jelly  may be poured round it if
preferred. 
 
 
  1350.--TRIFLES Should
be made early in the day on which they are wanted; take a stale sponge cake,
cut it in slices of one inch thick, and lay it on the bottom of the dish; lay
on that a thin layer of any kind of  marmalade,  jam, or  jelly, 
have some  macaroons  and  ratafia cakes,  and lay on and cover the
whole with some sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches in diameter, mix two
glasses of  sherry,  one of  brandy,  half a one of  rum,  and
the same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it remain until it is well soaked,
then pour over about one inch thick of rich custard, put a pint of  cream 
into a bowl, with some sifted  sugar,  a squeeze of a  lemon,  and
about a table-spoonful of the  wine,  &c, you have put on the cake,
whisk it well up. I use a trifle-churn, which saves some trouble; I also, use
it for all  whipped cream;  and as the froth rises remove it with a spoon
upon a clean sieve, where let it drain, then place it on the custard until it
is high and handsome. 
 I have occasionally, when being in a hurry, and having no  cream  by
me, proceeded as above, and made the  whip  with the  whites of
eggs,  and some very  white peach  or  egg-plum marmalade 
together, until it makes firm froth or  whip,  which put on the custard;
this may also be colored a nice pink. 
 
 
  1351.--BROWN BREAD
PUDDING May be made with half a pound of  stale brown bread 
coarsely grated, half a pound of  Valencia raisins  cut in halves, the
same of chopped  suet,   sugar  and  nutmeg.  Mix with four
 eggs,  two spoonfuls of  brandy,  and two of  cream;  boil it
for three or four hours in a cloth or basin that exactly holds it. Serve with
 sweet sauce.  
  Prunes,  or French  plums,  instead of  raisins,  make a
fine pudding, either with  suet  or  bread.  
 
 
  1352.--BREAD AND BUTTER
PUDDING. Make a custard of one  egg  and half a pint of
 milk,  by boiling the  milk  with a little  lemon-peel  and
 sugar,  and beating up the  egg  in it, putting it on the fire to
thicken;  butter  slices of  bread  or  French roll,  and soak
them for an hour or two in this mixture; then lay them in a dish, sprinkling
 currants  between each layer, with a little pounded  sugar;  and, if
meant to be very nice, put some sweet 
 meats  on the top; but both the  fruits  and the  sweetmeats 
may be omitted if thought proper. Pour over it another half a pint of
 milk  beaten up with two  eggs.  
 
 
  1353.--BOSTON CRACKER
PUDDINGS. On three grated Boston  crackers  pour a pint of
boiling  cream;  when cold add a teaspoonful of  cinnamon  in finest
powder, the  yolks  of four and  whites of two eggs,  a spoonful of
 orange-flower water  or ratafia, two ounces of  loaf-sugar,  and
half a spoonful of  flour,  or  almond flour,  rubbed smooth. 
 
 
  1854.--VERMICELLI. 
 Baked .--Simmer four ounces of  vermicelli  in a
pint of  new milk  ten minutes; then put to it half a pint of
 cream,  a tea-spoonful of pounded  cinnamon,  four ounces of
 butter  warmed, the same of  white sugar,  and the  yolks of four
eggs,  well beaten; a little  oil of almonds  or a couple of spoonfuls of
ratafia will much improve the flavor. Bake in a dish without a lining. 
 
 Boiled. --Stir very gently four ounces of
 vermicelli  into a pint of  new milk  over the stove, until it be
scalding hot, but not more; then pour it into a basin, and add to it while hot
one ounce of  butter  and two of  sugar.  When the above is nearly
cold, mix in it, very gently, two well beaten  eggs,  and immediately put
it into a basin that will exactly hold it. Cover carefully with a
 flour ed cloth; and turning the basin the narrow end up-wards, move it
round for ten minutes, and boil an hour. Serve with pudding- sauce.  
 
 
  1355.--MUFFIN AND CRUMPET
PUDDING. A very delicate pudding may be made in a short time from a
couple of muffins and three crumpets, placed alternately in layers, and either
boiled or baked in batter. If boiled, they should be placed in an earthen jar,
buttered on the inside, filled with the batter, and covered on the top. The
muffins should be split open, and  currant jelly,  slices of  apple, 
or any sort of  fruit  may be inserted. 
 
 Or: --Half a dozen crumpets may be boiled without any
 fruit,  after being dip-ped and covered in batter; seasoned only with
 sugar  and a little  nutmeg.  
 
 
  1356.--CHOCOLATE
PUDDING. Boil a pint of  new milk;  dissolve in it one ounce of
 chocolate;  sweeten it with  loaf-sugar;  add the  yolks  of
eight and the  whites of four eggs  well beaten; strain and pour it into a
plain mould but-tered and papered; steam it for a half an hour; let it settle
for ten minutes, and serve with the following  sauce :--Boil a half a
stick of  vanilla  in a pint of  milk  till it is reduced one-half;
strain it, sweeten with  loaf-sugar,  and thicken with
 arrowroot.  
 
 
  1357.--SPONGE
PUDDING.  Butter  a mould thickly, and fill it three parts full
with small sponge-cakes, soaked through with  wine;  fill up the mould
with a rich cold custard.  Butter  a  paper,  and put on the mould;
then tie a  flour ed cloth over it quite close, and boil it an hour. Turn
out the pudding carefully, and pour some cold custard over it. 
 
 Or: --Bake it, and serve with  wine-sauce 
instead of custard. 
 
 
  1358.--QUAKING
PUDDING. Scald a quart of  cream;  when almost cold put to it
four  eggs  well beaten, one spoonful and a half of  flour,  some
 nutmeg  and  sugar;  tie it close in a buttered cloth, boil it an
hour, and turn it out with care, lest it should crack. Serve with
 wine-sauce.  
 
 
  1359.--BRANDY
PUDDING. Line a mould with jar  raisins  stoned,  or  dried cherries,  then with thin slices of  French
roll,  next to which put ratafias, or  macaroons;  then again
 fruit,  rolls, and cakes in succession until the mould be full,
sprinkling in, at times, two  wine -glassfuls of  brandy.  Beat up
four  eggs, yolks  and  whites;  put to a pint of  milk  or
 cream,  lightly sweetened, half a  nutmeg,  and the  rind  of a
half a  lemon  finely grated. Let the liquid sink into the solid part; then
 flour  a cloth, tie it tight over, and boil one hour. Keep the mould the
right side up. Serve with pudding- sauce.  
 
 
  1360.--A BLACK-CAP
PUDDING. Rub three table-spoonfuls of  flour,  smooth, by degrees
into a pint of  milk,  strain it, and simmer it over the fire until it
thickens; stir in two ounces of  butter;  when cool, add the  yolks of
four eggs  beaten and strained, and a half a pound of  currants  washed
and picked, laid at the bottom of the basin or mould previously well buttered.
Put the batter into the mould, cover it tight, and plunge it into  boiling
water;  the  currants  down-wards, that they may stick to the bottom
and thus form the black-cap. 
 
 
  1361.--A SWEETMEAT
PUDDING. Cover a dish with thin puff- paste,  and lay in it
freshly  candied orange,   lemon,  and  citron,  one ounce each,
sliced thin. Beat the  yolks  of eight and the  whites of two eggs, 
and mix with eight ounces of  butter  warmed, but not oiled, and eight
ounces of  white sugar.  Pour the mixture over the  sweetmeats,  and
bake one hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 
  1362.--ORANGE
PUDDING May be made with six ripe  oranges,  large, juicy, of the
best kind, and peeled; the  rinds  to be beaten in a mortar with half a
pound each of fresh  butter  and  moist sugar,  to which add the
 yolks  of six or eight  eggs,  and make the whole into a batter with
the  juice  of only three of the  oranges : the number of  eggs 
to be regulated by the size of the  fruit.  Put the materials into a mould
with a  paste  around but not over it, and bake it for half an hour. 
 
 
  1363.--ROLY-POLY
PUDDING. Make a rich pudding- paste  with  flour  and
 butter,  without  suet,  but as light as possible. Boll it out thin,
and cut it to the breadth of eight or ten inches, making it at the same time as
long as you please; but half of a pound of  flour  and five ounces of
 butter,  wetted with  water,  will probably be sufficient when
rolled out quite smooth; then spread upon it a thick layer of  raspberry, 
 currant,  or any other sort of jam, but leave about an inch of all the
edges bare. That done, roll it round; the roll of  paste  will secure the
 fruit,  and the ends must be twisted together for the same purpose. Wrap
it in a nicely  flour ed cloth, and boil it for two to three hours
according to size. 
 Take it up quite hot, and when served cut it crosswise. It may appear
homely, but it is an excellent and much-admired pudding. 
 
 
  1364.--A VERY FINE GERMAN
PUDDING. Pour half a pint of boiling  milk  upon one pound of
 bread-crumbs;  beat up a quarter of a pound of fresh  butter  to a
 cream;  add to it the  yolks of ten eggs  well beaten; drain the
 milk  from the  bread,  and add the  bread  with a quarter of a
pound of pounded  sugar  and the grated  peel of a lemon; 
 whip  the  whites  of the ten  eggs  into a solid froth, and
add them the last thing:  butter  a cloth, and put the pudding in, tying
it loose, as it will swell out a good deal; plunge it into  boiling
water;  boil one hour. Some persons add a quarter of a pound of jar
 raisins  slit and stoned. When turned  out
stick the surface with sliced  almonds,  and serve with the following
 sauce :-- Take one pint of  cream,  one pint of sweet  raisin
wine,  four ounces of  sugar  rubbed on the  peel of a lemon,  and
let them boil; add the  yolks of six eggs  well beaten, and the juice
of the  lemon;  mix them well; make the  sauce  quite hot, but do not
let it boil again; pour some over the pudding, serving the remainder in a
 sauce  boat. 
 
 
  1365.--POUDING À LA
NESSELRODE. (From an eminent Hotel-keeper.) For a two-quart mould boil
a sufficient quantity of  chestnuts  to produce a quart of meal after
being pounded and rubbed through a tammy. Boil three-quarters of a pound of
 sugar  in one pint of  water,  with a stick of  vanilla,  until
it is reduced one-third. Boil one pint of  cream,  add it to the
 chestnut-flour,  then add the  syrup  and twelve  yolks of
eggs  beat up; set it over the fire, stir it until it nearly boils. When
cold, put the composition into a freezing-pot; when it is frozen, add half a
pint of  whipped cream,  three  whites of eggs  whipped up strong, a
handful of  raisins  stoned, chopped, and soaked for a day in maraschino,
as many  currants,  one cup and a half of chopped candied
 lemon-peel,  and a glass of maraschino; stir these ingredients all
well together, freeze it again, and put it into the mould. 
 
 
  1366.--PAIN PERDU. Beat
 eggs  with  salt,   sugar  and  orange-flower water;  cut
slices of  bread,  soak in boiling  milk,  drain, and dip them in the
 egg;  fry them in hot  butter.  Sift  sugar  over them, and
serve hot with  wine sauce.  
 
 
  1367.--A CHARTREUSE OF APPLES
AND RICE. Boil six ounces of  rice  with a stick of
 cinnamon  in  milk  until it is thick, stirring in a spoonful of
 rose-water  or  orange-flower water.  Pare ten or twelve
 apples --golden  pippins  are the best-scoop out the core, and fill
up the orifice with  raspberry -jam. Border a deep dish with  paste; 
put in the  apples,  leaving a space between, and fill it up with the
 rice.  Brush the whole over with the  yolk of an egg,  and sift
 sugar  thickly over it; form a pattern on the top, with
 sweetmeats,  and bake it for one hour in a quick oven. 
 
 
  1368.--MIROTON OF
APPLES. Scald the  apples,  reduce them to a  pulp,  and
pile them high upon the dish in which they are to be served; boil one
teaspoonful of grated  lemon-peel  and six or eight lumps of
 sugar  in a teacupful of  water;  then add the  yolks of three
eggs  and the  white  of one, half an ounce of  butter,  one
spoonful of  flour,  and one of  brandy;  mix the whole together over
the fire, and stir it quite smooth. Pour it upon the  apples,  then whisk
the  whites  of the other two  eggs  to a froth; put them over the
miroton just as it is going into the oven, and sift some  sugar  over it.
The oven must be slow: it will take ten or fifteen minutes to bake. 
 
 
  1369.--TO MAKE BATTER FOB FRUIT
PUDDINGS. Put half a pound of  flour  and a  salt -spoonful
of  salt  into a pan, add very gently half a pint of  milk;  if mixed
carelessly the  flour  will remain in lumps; beat up the  whites of four
eggs,  strain them to the batter, and beat it well with a wooden spoon. The
 whites  should be beaten separately to a solid froth, and not added till
just before the batter is used. For  fruit  the batter should be rather
thicker than when plain, to prevent the  fruit  from sinking to the bottom
of the dish or basin, as it is equally good baked or boiled. It must be brought
to a proper consistency by adding  milk.  
  
 
  1370.--OXFORD
DUMPLINGS. Of grated  bread  two ounces,  currants  and
shred  suet  four ounces each, two targe spoonfuls of  flour,  a
great deal of grated  lemon-peel,  a bit of  sugar,  and a little
 pimento  in fine powder. Mix with two  eggs  and a little
 milk  into five dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow brown. Made with
 flour  instead of  bread,  but half the quantity, they are
excellent. Serve with  sweet sauce.  
 
 
  1371.--GLOUCESTER
PUDDINGS. Weigh three  eggs  in the shell; take their weight in
 flour  and  butter;  take twelve  bitter almonds  and five
ounces of pounded  sugar;  beat all together for half an hour, and put the
mixture in pudding-cups, filling the cups only half full. Bake them half an
hour. 
 
 
  1372.--YEAST
DUMPLINGS. Take some  yeast  and make a very  light dough, 
the same as for  bread,  using  milk  however instead of
 water;  add  salt,  put it by the fire covered in a pan for half an
hour or more, to rise; after this is done roll up the dough into small balls
and boil them for ten minutes, then take them out and serve directly with
 wine-sauce  over them. To know when they are done stick a fork into one,
and if it comes out clean they will do. 
 A good method of eating them is by dividing them from the top with two
forks, as they get heavy by their own steam, and eat them directly with
 meat,  or  sugar  and  butter,  or  salt.  
 
 
 
 
 ITALIAN PASTES. 
 Besides macaroni, there are 
 vermicelli,  
 semolina,  a smaller sort called 
 macaroncini,  and various other pastes of the same
nature, all made in Italy from the same kind of grain; nothing, therefore, can
be more simply nutritive, nor, when well boiled, more easy of digestion. There
are also two sorts of macaroni-- the 
 pipe  and the 
 tape --the one hollow, and the other flat, but both
made of the same material; the vermicelli being that most generally used in
soup: each being severally used in various ways, according to the following
receipts: 
 
  1878.--MACARONI. Some
cooks are very fond of boiling it in  milk,  and even of laying it in
 milk  for an hour or two to swell and become ten-der, but  boiling
water  is as good. A quarter of a pound will be sufficient for half a dozen
people, and will not require more than twenty to twenty-five minutes to become
tender, if boiled in  water,  but a few minutes longer if boiled in
 broth.  Drain it when tender and lay it in a dish. Half the quantity of
 cheese  should be finely grated and sprinkled over it in layers, with
 butter,  to mix it thoroughly. It should be served quite hot. It is
sometimes eaten with  mustard,  and, if to be made very  savory, 
 beef gravy  may be used with a  truffle  stewed in it. 
 Nothing but  Parmesan cheese  will give it the true flavor. 
 To 
 brown  Macaroni   is the common practice of
cooks; though, in fact, the browning, while giving a pretty appearance to the
 macaroni,  not only hardens the top of the  cheese  into a crust,
but often gives a taste of rancidity. It can be done with crumbs of
 bread,  thus:-- 
 Wash the  macaroni,  then simmer it in a little  broth,  with a
little pounded  mace  and  salt.  When quite tender, take it out of
the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate a good deal of  cheese  over, then
cover that with  bread  grated fine. Warm some  butter  without
oiling, and pour it from a boat through a little earthen colander all over the
crumbs, then put the dish in a Dutch oven to brown the  bread  of a fine
color.  
 
 G old Macaroni,  --If already dressed, may be
warmed in any kind of  broth,  letting it simmer gently upon a slow fire,
with the  yolks of two eggs  to thicken; after which it should be put into
the oven in a mould covered with crumbs of  bread;  or, if undressed, it
may be made by leaving it overnight in  broth,  and then proceeding with
it as above. 
 
 
  1374.--TIMBALE BE
MACARONI. Soften the  macaroni  by boiling it fast until it will
cut easily without breaking, but do not let it be too soft; then cut it into
pieces half an inch long 5  butter  a mould, stick the  macaroni 
quite close to-gether all over it, so as to look like a honeycomb; then spread
a thin layer of quenelle farce over the  macaroni;  fill up the mould with
a mince of stewed  ox  palates cut into small pieces, and small  button
mushrooms,  either pickled or fresh, moistened well with  white sauce :
close the mould, and boil it for three-quarters of an hour; turn it out very
carefully, and serve it with thick  white sauce  and  mushrooms.  
 
 
  1375.--PÂTÉ DE
MACARONI. Stew some  macaroni  in  butter  and  water, 
or  broth,  strain it, cut it into pieces, and lay it at the bottom of the
dish, adding  ham  balls, made of  ham,  pounded in a mortar, and
blended with  butter;  then have ready any kind of  game,  boned and
filleted, cock's-combs or  ox -palates, previously blanched and stewed,
 sweetbread  cut into dice, and  mushrooms,  all stewed in good rich
 sauce;  place a layer upon the  macaroni,  then another layer of
 meat,  and, until the pie is filled, add to it equal quantities of
 cream  and  gravy,  cover it with a  paste,  and bake it, or
omit the  paste,  and stew it before the fire in a Dutch oven. The
 macaroni  may be mixed with  grated cheese.  
 
 
  1376.--VERMICELLI Is of
the same substance as  macaroni,  but made much smaller, and frequently
put into  meat  soups as giving them ad-ditional richness; but it is often
too spar-ingly used. To be well made the soup should be thickened with it, and
for that purpose it is preferable to  macaroni.  
 
  Semolina   is of the same material, but made
into small grains, which more easily thicken the soup in which it is mixed; it
can also be made into an excellent pudding with  eggs  and  milk, 
using it in-stead of  flour.  
 It should be observed, as a general rule, that in using any of the Italian
pastes--unless they should be sweetened -- Parmesan cheese  should always
form part of the dish, in the proportion of one-half the quantity to that of
the  paste.  
 
 
  1377.--POLENTA. Is, in
Italy, made from the  flour  of In-dian  corn,  but in England
generally of  semolina,  thus:--Put a little  salt  and four ounces
of  semolina  into a quart of  milk  when it is beginning to boil,
and let it continue to simmer for about ten minutes, stirring it occasionally
to guard it from burning. When well thickened pour it into a dish to cool, and
when quite cold it will be very solid: then cut it into slices of less than an
inch thick, upon which put a large grating of good  Parmesan cheese,  for
no other kind will answer the purpose; nor should any  spices  be used,
except a little  mace;  nor even that, unless it be made (as sometimes
done) with  veal broth.  Clarify a few ounces of fresh
 butter --though in Italy  oil  is always used--put a layer of the
 paste,  powdered with the  Parmesan,  mixed with a little of the
 butter;  bake it for half an hour in a moderately heated oven, and serve
it up quite hot, with a separate plate of the  grated cheese.  
 
  
 RICE. 
 For 
 savory dishes  rice should be stewed in good gravy,
seasoned with mace, cayenne, and salt, with the addition of fried onions,
shalot, garlic, and pot-herbs, strained and used at pleasure. 
 For 
 sweet dishes .--Boil it with lemon-peel, cinnamon, or
bay-leaves, and, when done to a proper consistency, add powder-ed sugar and
cold butter, stirring it all the time till melted; then pour in a little cream,
and use it either as a covering for stewed fruits, or, if made thick enough, it
may be placed round the sides of a dish, leaving the middle hollow for the
sweets. The same plan may be adopted for all sorts of meat, poultry, fish,
fruit, and sweetmeats. The sugar should not be added until the rice is done, as
it has a tendency to harden the grains. 
 Plain rice pudding can be made with brown sugar, and milk baked slowly a
long time; a richer one by boiling a tea-cupful of rice, and when boiled,
adding milk and fine sugar, with four beaten eggs, and baking it. 
 
  1378.--RICE
FRITTERS. Pare very thin the  rind of a lemon,  and boil it in
 milk,  with  sugar  enough to sweeten it, and a cup of  rice. 
When the  rice  is quite soft take out the  lemon peel,  beat up the
 rice  with a glass of  brandy;  shape it into fritters; brush them
with  yolks of eggs,  cover them with  bread-crumbs,  fry them in
 lard,  dust them with fine  sugar,  and glaze with salamander. 
 
 
  1379.--TO BOIL
RICE. Very few persons know how to boil  rice  properly. It is
usually so boiled as to become a 
 heavy dough,  so tenacious and solid as to be almost
impenetrable to the digestive fluids secreted by the mouth and the stomach,
which are necessary to dissolve it, and to effect its digestion and
distribution, as innocent nourishing food. It should be so cooked that the
grains shall remain separate and distinct, but not  hard,  and the whole
be in some degree loose and porous. The Southern method is as follows: 
 Pick over the  rice  carefully, rinse it well in  cold water  till
it is faithfully cleansed; drain off the  water,  then put it in a pot of
 boiling water,  with a little  salt.  Allow as much as a quart of
 water  to a teacup of  rice,  as it absorbs the  water  very
much while boiling. Boil it seventeen minutes; then turn the  water  off
very close; set the pot over a few  coals,  and let it steam fifteen
minutes with the lid of the pot off. The beauty of the  rice  boiled in
this way, is, that each kernel stands out by itself, while it is quite
tender. 
 
 
 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 A plateful of rice croquettes arranged in the shaped of
pyramid. 
 
  1380.--RICE
CROQUETTES. Take half a pound of boiled  rice,  mix with it two
table-spoonfuls of  grated cheese,  and a little  nutmeg  and
 mace;  then take a little  butter,  six table-spoonfuls of  cold
chicken breast,  minced, six bearded  oysters,  a little  parsley 
and  lemon peel,  and mixed together with  rich milk  or
 cream.  Roll out a table-spoon heaping full of the  rice,  and put
into it as much as it will hold of the mixture, folding the edges and inclosing
it; brush the balls over with  yolk of raw egg,  roll them in  cracker
crumbs,  and fry them light brown in boiling  lard.  Serve them hot
when drained. 
  
 
  1881.--CASSEROLE DE RIZ AUX
CEUFS. Clean, wash, and stew the  rice  5 work it well with
 stock  and an  egg  beaten as the  rice  should be firm and
well blended then make it into a wall, lining the inside of a mould of the
requisite height: bake the casserole. Take the  white  portion of  cold
fowl,   cold veal,  or  sweetbreads;  mince them finely, add some
thick  white sauce  and  mushrooms,  fill the casserole, and cover
the top with poached  eggs;  cover them with glaze, and serve it up very
hot. 
 
 
  1882.--RICE, GATEAU
OF. Boil a quart of  cream,  and add to it half a pound of
 powdered sugar,  and three-quarters of a pound of  rice;  when the
latter is quite soft dissolve in it a quarter of a pound of  butter,  and
then put in the grated  rind of a lemon;  let it cool. When quite cold
stir in four  yolks  and four whole  eggs;  more if the  rice 
be very thick;  butter  a mould lightly, put the  rice  into it,
place the mould in hot  ashes  so that it may be completely enveloped in
and covered with them; in half an hour the gateau will be done enough, then
turn it out and serve. If you wish you can make a souffle by whipping the
 whites of six eggs  like other souffles; in this case it should be served
in a silver dish. In putting the preparation into the mould be careful not to
fill it, as the  rice  would swell and run over. 
 
 
  1883.--MUSH. Stir
 Indian meal  into  boiling water,  adding a little  salt  and
putting in the meal by degrees, while stirring with a mush stick. Let it boil
thick, then simmer slowly till sufficiently cooked; three or four hours'
simmering will not be too long. 
 
 
  1884.--HOMINY. Wash the
 hominy  clean, and boil it with sufficient  water  to cover it. It
should boil from four to five hours over a very slow fire. Eat it with
 butter  and  molasses,  or with  sugar  and  milk.  It is
considered extremely wholesome food, especially for children and delicate
persons. 
 
 
  1885.--CROQUETTES OF RICE WITH
APRICOT MARMALADE. Prepare the  rice  plain for a croquette, take
the handle of a wooden spoon, make a hole in the croquette, which fill with
 marmalade of apricots.  Then close it up with some of the  rice, 
put crumbs of  bread  as you do in all other croquettes, and fry in the
same manner. You may put in pieces of  apple  or other  fruit.  
 
 
  1886.--SOUFFLE OF APPLES WITH A
RICE BOEDER. Prepare your  rice  as for a croquette. Keep it of a
strong solid substance; dress it up all round a dish, the same height as a
raised crust, that is to say, three inches high. Give a pleasing shape to the
 rice,  and let it be levelled smooth; have some  marmalade of apple 
ready, made very thick; mix with it six  yolks of eggs  and a small bit of
 butter;  warm it on the stove: then have eight  whites of eggs  well
whipped, as for  biscuits;  mix them lightly with the  apples,  and
put the whole into the middle of the  rice;  put this into the oven, which
must not be too hot. When the souffle is raised sufficiently, send it up, as it
would soon lower. If you wish to make a kind of pap, take a spoonful of
 flour,  a pint of  milk,  a little  salt,   lemon,  and
 sugar;  let the whole boil well and thick, then mix it with the
 apples  and the  yolks of six eggs;  the  whites  are to be
well beaten, and poured in afterwards; next bake the souffle in the oven. This
method is safer than the former, and is not deficient in delicacy. 
 
 
  
 CHEESE. 
 Cheese takes an important place at the table; not alone, in its simple place
at the close of the dinner, but that it forms the foundation of many excellent
dishes. The selection of good cheese requires both judgment and experience; a
delicate palate and a keen sense of smell are two essential requisites, while
the eye is an assistant to point out those defects independent of taste or
smell. A prime cheese is readily told by a connoisseur by the color and
texture, without consulting either nose or palate. 
 
  1887.--TO MAKE
CHEESE. Put rennet into warm fresh  milk,  soaked in a little
 warm water,  and add  salt.  Half a pint of  rennet water  will
turn three pails of  milk.  Cut the curd into squares; afterwards break it
up and let it stand a few minutes; pour off the  whey,  tie up the curd,
and hang it up to drain dry. Then chop it up in a  cheese  tray, put it in
a cloth in the  cheese  mould, and press it in the screw press half an
hour. Then cut it up fine,  salt  it, and press again for twenty-four
hours, wetting the cloth previously. Take it out and turn, and put it in again
in a clean wet cloth, and renew this process for three or four days. Then rub
the  cheese  with  butter  or  lard,  and set it away in a dry
place or in a wire safe. Wipe and  grease  it till the  rind  is
firm, and turn it every day for several weeks. 
 
 
  1888.--SMEARCASE OR COTTAGE
CHEESE. Set by the fire some  milk  beginning to sour, till a
curd is formed: then pour off the  whey,  tie the curd in a cloth, and
hang it up to drain, not squeezing it. Drain it twelve hours. Then work it in a
bowl with  cream,  salting to taste, and add a little fresh  butter, 
till it is soft and smooth. 
 
 
  1889.--SAGE
CHEESE. Pound fresh  sage leaves  in a mortar to obtain the
 juice,  and mix it with the  milk  while warm, after the rennet is
put in.  Spinach juice  is an improvement. 
 
 
  1890.--CREAM
CHEESE. Take a small pan of fresh morning's  milk,  warm from the
 cow  is best, and mix with the  cream  skimmed from an equal
quantity of the last night's  milk.  Warm it to blood heat, pour into it a
cup of  water,  in which a piece of rennet the size of two fingers has
soaked all night, and put it in a warm place till the curd is formed. Cut the
curd into squares, lay over it a thin straining cloth, press it down, and dip
out all the  whey  that rises through it. Then put the curd in the cloth,
squeeze it dry, then crumble and  salt  it to taste. Wash the
straining-cloth, lay it in the  cheese  hoop (a bottomless vessel the size
of a dinner plate, perforated with small holes,) put the crumbled curd into the
cloth, and fold the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the cover, and set a
weight on it. In six hours turn the  cheese,  and let stand six hours
longer. Then take it out, rub it with fresh  butter,  and set it in a
dark, dry place. Turn it every day for four or five days, when it is fit for
use; and it must be eaten immediately when cut. It will keep but a few days,
even in cold weather. 
 
 
  1891--CHEESE
PUFFS. Take half a pint of  cheese  curd strained from the
 whey,  with a spoonful and a half of  flour,  three  eggs, 
leave out the  whites  of two, a spoonful of  orange flower water,  a
quarter of a  nutmeg,  and  sugar  to make it sweet; beat it in a
mortar; lay a little of this  paste  in very small round cakes on a tin
plate; if the oven is hot, they will take a quarter of an hour to bake them;
serve them with pudding  sauce.  
  
 
  1892.--EGGS AND
CHEESE Are mixed together in various ways by French cooks, under the
names of 
 fondus  or 
 fondeaux,  rumequins, and other titles, for the
purpose of preparing 
 entremets,  or side-dishes, for elegant tables. 
 Gruyere and  Parmesan  are the most proper sorts to be thus used, but
any dry  cheese,  of good flavor, may be employed. 
 
 For Fondeau .--Slice a stale  penny roll;  pour
over it three gills of boiling  milk;  when soaked, beat it well, and mix
with it half a pound of  cheese,  finely grated, with the  yolks of four
eggs  well whisked. All this may be prepared when most convenient;
immediately before it is wanted beat the  whites  of the four  eggs 
into a solid froth, and add them; pour the whole into the  paper  forms,
and bake them to your taste. 
 
 A l' Italienne .--Mix half a pint of  cream 
with a little  flour  and a little  salt;  keep stirring it over the
fire until it is as thick as melted  butter;  then add about half a pound
of  Parmesan cheese  finely grated. Mix it all well together until it is
half cold; then take four  eggs,  separate the  yolks  from the
 whites,  put the former to the  cheese,  and beat it well together.
Then beat the  whites  to a solid froth, and add them to the rest; pour
the mixture into an ornamented mould or a deep dish lined with  paper, 
cut in a fringe at the top, and only half filled, as it will rise very high.
The oven must be very hot, in order to cause the rising, and the dish must be
served immediately, or it will fall; to prevent which, let the cover be of
metal, strongly heated; twenty minutes ought to bake it. 
 
 Fondeaux  of a small size may be made in either of
the above modes, and put into little  paper  moulds of any fancied form,
but only half filled. 
 
 
  1893.--RAMÉQUINS. Take two  eggs,  two
spoonfuls of  flour,  two ounces of melted  butter,  and two of
 grated cheese;  mix all well together, and bake it in moulds or tartpans
for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 A la Parisienne .--Boil half a pint of  milk, 
and half the quantity of  cream;  melt one ounce of  butter  and a
little  salt;  mix in a spoonful of  flour,  and stir it over the
fire for five minutes; pour in the  milk  and  cream  by degrees, and
work it smooth, taking care that it is thoroughly cooked. Then take it off, and
add half a pound of  grated cheese,  some coarse  ground pepper,  and
an atom of  nutmeg,  with a very little  powdered sugar,  the
 yolks of eight eggs,  and the  whites  of two, well beaten; when
perfectly mixed, add the  whites of six eggs  beaten to a froth. The
batter should be as thick as  cream.  Make little  paper  trays, fill
them three parts full, and bake them in a very slow oven eighteen minutes. 
 
 Fried Ramequins .--Grate half a pound of
 cheese,  and melt two ounces of but-ter; when the latter is getting cool,
mix it with the  cheese  and the  whites of three eggs  well beaten.
Lay buttered  papers  on a frying-pan, put slices of  bread  upon it,
and lay the  cheese  on the top; set it on the fire for about five
minutes, then take it oft, and brown it with a salamander. 
 
 
  1894.--CHEESE SOUFFLE, OR
DIABLOTINS. Put a gill of  milk  in a stewpan, with two ounces of
 butter;  when boiling, stir in two spoonfuls of  flour,  keep
stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry, then add four
 eggs  by degrees, and a pound of  grated cheese;  mix well in,
season with  pepper,   salt,  and  cayenne,  rather highly,
mould the  paste  into little balls with the forefinger  against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them
into hot  lard;  fry of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a
napkin, and serve very hot; a quarter of the quantity may of course be made.
This is an excellent dish. 
 
 
  1895.--STEWED
CHEESE. Grate two ounces of chesse; put it into a basin; mix with it a
small teacupful of  cream  and an  egg  beaten and strained. Put into
a small saucepan one ounce or half an ounce of  butter,  according to the
richness of the  cheese;  let it melt, then stir in the other ingredients,
and let it boil until well mixed. Serve it hot either browned or plain. 
 
 With  Ale  .--Cut the  cheese  into slices,
pare off the  rind,  and put it into a dish over a lamp; then pour on as
much  ale  as will cover it, and let it stew until the  cheese  is
dissolved. This is a Welsh method, and a very good one. The  cheese  may
be spread with  mustard.  
 A very delicious sort of  paste  may also be made of any of the rich
cheeses, stewed with  cream  and  yolk of egg,  either seasoned
savorily or sweetened; and eaten hot or cold. 
 
 
  1896.--WELSH
RABBIT. Put mellow  cheese  into a saucepan with about one ounce
of  butter  and a very little  ale;  stir it over the fire until the
 cheese  is quite dissolved; then take it off, add an  egg  well
beaten, dish it, and brown it before the fire. 
 
 Cheese-Toaster. 
 An illustration of a cheese toaster. 
 
 
 Or,  Rasp some toasting  cheese  with a bit of
 butter,  into a cheese-toaster, and, when the  cheese  dissolves the
fire, put it upon thin slices of  buttered toast,  of which the crust has
been cut off. Serve it very hot, or the  cheese  will become tough; and
eat it with  pepper,   salt,  and  mustard.  
 
 
  1897.--A CHEESE
PUDDING. Grate three ounces of  cheese  and five of  bread; 
and having warmed one ounce of  butter  in a quarter of a pint of  new
milk,  mix it with the above; add two well-beaten  eggs  and a little
 salt.  Bake it half an hour. 
 This is a nice way of finishing up a  cheese  when little but the
 rind  is left. 
 When mites have taken possession of a  cheese,  and this is considered
objectionable, the following receipt will have the effect of destroying them
without injury to the  cheese.  Wipe the  cheese,  put it into a pot
in which  mutton  has been cooked whilst the  water  is yet hot, make
the  water  boil a few seconds, take out the  cheese,  wipe it
immediately, dry it, and then put it away in a dry place until required for
use. 
 
 
  1898.--POTTED
CHEESE. Scrape and pound the  cheese,  with a piece of
 butter,   cayenne pepper,  a few grains of pounded  mace,  a
teaspoonful of sifted  sugar,  a glass of  white wine,  and a little
 salt;  press it into your potting-jar for shape. It may be potted with
 brandy.  
 
 
  1899.--CHEESE CREAM, A PLAIN
FAMILY WAY. Put three half pints of  milk  to one-half pint of
 cream,  warm, or according to the same proportions, and put in a little
rennet; keep it covered in a warm place till it is curdled; have a mould with
holes, either of china or any other, put the curds into it to drain about an
hour, serve with good plain  cream  and pounded  sugar  over it. 
 
 
  
 
  1400.--PANCAKES. The 
 common sort  are composed of a light batter, made of
 eggs,   flour,  and  milk,  fried in hot dripping or
 lard,  only-half of the  whites of the eggs  being generally used;
but  salt,  or  nutmeg,  and  ginger,  may be added, and
 sugar  and  lemon  should be served to eat with them. Or, when
 eggs  are scarce, make the batter with  flour  and small
 beer,   ginger,  &c.; or clean snow, with  flour,  and a
very little  milk,  will serve as well as  eggs.  If the family be
large, beat eight  yolks  and four  whites of eggs,  strain them into
a pint of  milk,  put a grated  nutmeg,  and  sugar  to your
taste: set three ounces of fresh  butter  on the fire, stir it, and as it
warms pour it to the  milk,  which should be warm when the  eggs  are
put to it; then mix smooth almost a half a pound of  flour.  Fry the
pancakes very thin; the first with a bit of  butter,  but not the others.
Serve several on one another, but at two or three different times, "hot and
hot." 
 A 
 finer  kind are fried without  butter  or
 lard,  as thus:--Beat six fresh  eggs  extremely well; mix, when
strained, with a pint of  cream,  four ounces of  sugar,  a glass of
good  French brandy,  a half a  nutmeg  grated, the grated
 rind  of a whole  lemon,  and as much  flour  as will make it
almost as thick as ordinary pancake-batter, but not quite. Heat the frying-pan
tolerably hot, wipe it with a clean cloth; then pour in the batter to make thin
pancakes. 
 
 
  1401.--APPLE
PANCAKES. Mix two large spoonfuls of  flour  in a cup of
 milk  or  wine;  when smooth add eight  eggs,  some pounded
 cinnamon,  grated  lemon-peel,  a handful of  currants,  and
six or eight  apples  peeled and chopped: mix it all well together; melt
some  butter  in a frying-pan; when hot pour the whole mass in, and fry it
on both sides: serve it stewed with pounded  cinnamon  and  sugar 
very hot. 
 
 
  1402.--NEW ENGLAND
PANCAKES. Mix a pint of  cream,  five spoonfuls of  fine
flour,  seven  yolks  and four  whites of eggs,  and a very little
 salt;  fry them very thin in fresh  butter,  and between each strew
 sugar  and  cinnamon.  Send up six or eight at once. 
 
 Waffle Furnace. 
 An illustration of an opening waffle furnace. 
 
 
 
  1403.--DUTCH
PANCAKES. Mix one pound of  flour  with a half a pound of
 sugar  and a table-spoonful of  cinnamon  in powder; make it into a
 paste  with ten  eggs  and two glasses of  white wine,  or one
each of  wine  and  brandy;  when well mixed, roll it out and fry
like other pancakes. 
 
 
  1401.--CREPES. Make a
batter with  flour,   milk  and  eggs,  adding  brandy  and
 orange-flower water.  In two or three hours afterwards, melt a piece of
 butter  or  lard,  the size of a  walnut,  in a frying-pan,
pour in some batter, and shake it over the pan. "When done on one side, turn it
over; when the other side is done, dish it and keep hot till the others are
done, sifting  sugar  over each. 
 
 
  1405.--RICE
PANCAKES. To half a pound of  rice  put two-thirds of a pint of
 water,  boil it to a  jelly;  when cold, add to it eight
 eggs,  a pint of  cream,  a little  salt  and  nutmeg, 
and half a pound of  butter  melted; mix well, adding the  butter 
last, and working it  only so much as will make
the batter sufficiently thick. Fry them in  lard,  but employ as little as
it is possible to fry them with. 
 
 
  1406.--FRITTERS, Although a species of pancakes,
are yet not so wholly composed of  eggs,  and may be made of almost any
substance fried in  butter.  Make them of any of the batters directed for
pancakes, dropping a small quantity into the pan, or beat six  eggs  very
lightly and quickly in a quart of  milk,  adding gradually three quarters
of a pound of  potato-flour.  Have ready a large quantity of  lard, 
and when boiling hot put in the batter, allowing for each fritter half a
teacupful. They do not require turning, and will be done in a few minutes, but
must be sent to table immediately, or they will become heavy; one pound and a
half of  lard  will be required for the above quantity of fritters; they
may be eaten plainly pow-dered with  loaf sugar  or  sugar  and
cinna-mon, and should be served on a folded napkin in the dish. Any sort of
sweet- meat  or ripe  fruit  may be made into fritters. 
 
 For plain Fritters .--Grate the crumb of a penny
loaf, put it into a pint of  milk  over the fire, and beat it very smooth;
when cold, add the  yolks of five eggs  three ounces of sifted
 sugar,  and half a  nutmeg.  Fry them in  hog's lard,  and
serve pudding- sauce  in a boat. 
 
  Apple -Fritters .--Take the  yolks of six
eggs,  and the  whites  of three; beat them well, and strain them; then
add a pint of  milk,  a little  salt,  half a  nutmeg  grat-ed,
and a glass of  brandy.  Make it into thick batter with  fine flour; 
slice the  apples  in rounds, cut out the core, dust them with fine
 sugar,  and let them so re-main for two hours; then dip each slice in
batter, and fry them in plenty of boil-ing  lard  over a quick fire. They
require  lard  sufficient to swim in. Glaze with  sugar.  
 
 Creme Frite aux Amandes .--Boil one pint of
 milk  with two bay-leaves, a little  lemon-peel,  and a small
piece of  cinnamon.  When the flavor is extracted, strain it; add two
table-spoonfuls of  arrowroot,  and  sugar  to palate; stir it well
over the fire, and add the  yolks of four eggs,  two ounces of chopped
 almonds,  and a  wine -glass of  cream.  Cook the whole over
the fire for about four minutes, stirring it all the time; then pour it on a
tin which has been well buttered, spread it about half an inch thick, put it
into the oven for ten minutes, let it get thoroughly cool, cut out with a round
cutter, dip into fine  bread-crumbs,  then into  egg  beat up very
thin, and again into crumbs; fry in hot  lard : dust over with
 sugar,  and send to table. 
 
 French Fritters .--Mix two  eggs,  well beaten
and strained, with as much  new milk  and  flour  as shall make one
thick pancake, which fry as pale as you can. Pound it in a mortar quite smooth,
and add the  yolks  of four and  whites of two eggs,  one large
spoonful of  orange-flower water  or  cinnamon-water,  one ounce of
blanched  almonds  beaten to a  paste,  two ounces of  white sugar, 
and one-quarter of a small  nutmeg.  Pound it all till it becomes smooth
batter. Have ready a large stewpan half full of fine  lard  quite hot, and
drop the batter into it, the size of large  nuts,  until the surface be
filled: as they brown, turn them: they will be very large: when done, remove
them on clean paper, in a dish before the fire, and do the remainder.
Serve as quickly as possible. They are excellent. 
 
 Potato Fritters .--Boil two large  potatoes, 
scrape them fine, beat four  yolks  and three  whites of eggs,  and
add one large spoonful of  cream,  another of  sweet wine,  a squeeze
of  lemon,  and a little  nut -meg. Beat this batter half an hour
at  least. It will be extremely light. Put a good
quantity of fine  lard  in a stewpan, and drop a spoonful of the batter at
a time into it. Fry them, and serve in a  sauce  boat, a glass of  white
wine,  the  juice of a lemon,  one dessert-spoonful of  peach
leaf  or  almond water,  and some  white sugar,  warmed
together. 
 
 Curd Fritters .--Rub down in a mortar a quart of
dried curd, with the  yolks  of eight and  whites  of four well
beaten  eggs,  two ounces of sifted  sugar,  half a  nutmeg, 
and half a spoonful of  flour.  Drop the batter into a frying pan, with a
little  butter  or fine  lard.  
 
  Orange  and  Sweetmeat  Fritters .--Peel
two  oranges,  then cut them in slices across, and take out all the
 seeds,  dip the slices of  orange  in batter, as for
 apple -fritters, and fry them. Serve with  powdered sugar  upon each
fritter. 
 
 
  1407.--BEIGNETS. Mix
and work well together half a pound of  flour,  and two ounces of
 butter,  or three table-spoonfuls of  sweet oil,  and make it into a
batter with some  warm water;  then mix into the batter a couple of  raw
eggs,  keeping the  yolk  of one for browning. The materials may thus
be made of any degree of consistence, so as to act as thick batter, or as thin
 paste  by the addition of a little  flour;  and being made into
small balls, are spread with the remaining  yolk of egg,  powdered usually
with  sugar,  and fried in hot  lard;  and, when ready to be served,
put them for a moment on a hair sieve to drain off the  fat.  
 If made solely with  paste,  without mince of any kind, they should
have an-other  egg,  and the batter be more con-tinually beaten, so as to
render the beignets light; then, when prepared for dressing, take a spoonful of
the batter formed into a ball, and drop it into the boiling  lard.  A
large dishful will be fried in six or seven minutes. 
 
 
 
 VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING EGGS. 
 Unless an egg is perfectly fresh it is unfit for any purpose. You may try
the freshness of eggs by putting them in a pan of cold water. Those that sink
the soonest are the freshest. Eggs may be preserved a short time by putting
them in a jar of salt or lime-water with the small ends downwards. The salt
should not afterwards be used. They may be preserved several months by greasing
them all over with melted mutton suet, and wedging them close together in a box
of bran. The small ends always downwards. 
 There are, of course, several sorts of eggs, according to the species of
poultry which produce them. The turkey egg is the largest and the most
delicate, after which, in point of flavor, is the guinea-hen's, and, in that of
size, those of the goose and duck. Although all these are employed in cookery,
yet the eggs of the "common barn-door fowl" are those most generally used when
served up separately and boiled in the shell, in which case the main point is
their entire freshness. This can partly be judged of by putting them between
you and the light, and seeing that the white is clear and the yolk unclouded;
for although nothing can be more delicately nutritive when newly laid, few
things are more nause-ous when they are stale. 
 
  1408.--TO KEEP EGGS FOR WINTER
USE. Pour a full gallon of  boiling water  on two quarts of
quicklime and half a pound of  salt;  when cold, mix into it an ounce of
 cream of tartar.  The day fol-lowing put in the  eggs.  After the
 lime  has been stirred well into the  boiling water,  a large part
of it will settle at the  bottom of the vessel, on
which the  eggs  will remain. Keep them covered with the liquor, and they
will keep for two years. 
 
 
  1409.--TO BOIL EGGS. To
effect the simple process of boiling demands constant attention, as half a
minute more or less may spoil the  egg  for a fastidious palate. Some put
them into  cold water,  and, when it boils, allow the  eggs  to
remain in it for a minute longer; while others prefer putting them into
 boiling water,  and there leaving them until done. That time is most
commonly three minutes, and seldom less; but many persons object to their being
left so soft, and four or five minutes are not unusual if the  eggs  are
not "new-laid" Ten minutes are required for making the  yolks hard  enough
for salad, after which the  eggs  should be put for some time into  cold
water  to harden, or the  yolks  will not readily incorporate with the
condiments. 
 It should, however, be understood that, in whatever way the  egg  is to
be boiled, it should be completely covered with  water;  that if put into
the  water  while boiling, the shell is subject to being cracked; and if
boiled too suddenly, the  white  becomes  hard,  while the
 yolk  remains comparatively soft. The cook should therefore be provided
with min-ute glasses of various sizes--from one minute to five--to mark the
time; for they are more accurate than the hand of a kitchen clock, and do not
require so much watching. 
 
 
  1410.--TO POACH EGGS Is
to boil them 
 without their shells,  and requires still greater
care. The  water  must be perfectly pure, and the  yolk  must be only
just so much done as to fix itself firmly in the centre of the
 white.  
 
 Egg Poacher 
 An illustration of a three layers egg poacher. 
 
 Put a moderate quantity of  water  into a broad flat stewpan. French
cooks add to it, when boiling, a spoonful of  vinegar  and a little
 salt.  Take the pan off the fire whilst putting in the  eggs;  break
the  egg  into a teacup or small ladle, and turn it gently into the
 water,  so as to prevent the  yolk  from being mixed with the
 white;  let them stand till beginning to set; then let the  eggs 
boil gently until you perceive that they are done, by the  white  being
set, and the  yolk  appearing through it in a comparatively soft state;
then take each from the  water  with an  egg -slice, and pare off any
ragged edges, which may appear around it, before sending to table. This latter
operation, however, if not quickly done, cools the  egg,  which ought to
be served quite hot, to avoid which inconvenience, a little machine for
poaching has been invented. 
 Poached  eggs  are commonly placed upon  buttered toast, 
 broiled ham,  or boiled  spinach.  
 
 
  1411.--OMELETTE. This
is the most usual mode of dressing  eggs,  after that of boiling them in
the shell. 
 Four  eggs  will make a very pretty sized omelet, but the number must
of course depend on the size required. If  sweet herbs  be put in, a good
deal of  parsley  should form part;  tarragon  gives a high flavor,
and  chives  or shalots are not unfrequently 
used, but care should be taken that the flavor should not overpower that of the
other ingredients. 
 Omelets are judiciously varied by mixing grated  ham  or  tongue 
with minced  anchovies,  when served at supper or as a side-dish at
dinner; but when intended for the breakfast-table, it is more delicate to make
them of  eggs  alone. 
 Although a common frying-pan may be used, yet one made on purpose, not
larger than the size of a dessert-plate, should be employed, so as not to allow
the omelet too much spreading, for it should always be kept of a certain degree
of thickness to secure the softness of the inside. It is therefore only to be
fried on one side, and when the under is browned and the upper brought to a
moderate state of consistence, the fried side is to be folded over the other in
three. 
  Butter  is better than either  lard  or dripping for the frying
of an omelet. Any sort of pot- herbs  is admissible; and many sorts of
minced  fowl  and  fish  are prepared in that manner. There are
hundreds of receipts for omelets, but the principle is the same in all, the
difference being only in the flavoring. 
 
 
  1412.--OMELETTE AU
NATUREL. Take four  eggs,  beat the  yolks  and
 whites  together with a table-spoonful of  milk,  a little
 salt  and  pepper;  put two ounces of  butter  into a
frying-pan to boil, and let it remain until it begins to brown; pour the batter
into it, and let it remain quiet for a minute; turn up the edges of the omelet
gently from the bottom of the pan with a fork; shake it, to keep it from
burning at the bottom, and fry it till of a bright brown. It will not take more
than five minutes frying. 
 
 Aux fines Herbes .--Beat up four  eggs  with a
little  cream,   salt,   pepper,   chives,  and
 parsley,  minced very small. Put a piece of  butter  half the size
of an  egg  into the frying-pan; let it begin to brown; pour in the omelet
and allow it to set a little; then raise it round the edge, to allow more of
the mixture to become brown. When that is done, turn it over to double it; but
as in browning the lower side the upper will sometimes appear too soft; in that
case make a slight use of the salamander, to give it firmness; put the dish on
the frying-pan, and turn it over. Let the fire be clear, but not too hot. 
 
 Aux Confitures .--Beat up eight  eggs  with a
table-spoonful of  powdered sugar,  a little  nutmeg,  a pinch of
 salt,  some finely-chopped  lemon-peel,  and a  wine -glass
of  cream,  or about a quarter of an ounce of  butter.  Make an
omelet-pan hot, put in a small piece of  butter,  and, when the
 eggs  are thoroughly mixed, pour them into the pan; stir it about, and,
when set, arrange the omelet neatly in the pan; lay on two spoonfuls of jam,
roll it up, and glaze it with  sugar  and the salamander. Any of the
 preserved fruits,  when prepared as jam, will answer the purpose. 
 
 Une Omelette aux Amandes  is also looked upon as a
delicacy, and made by substituting  almond-flour,  or pounded  sweet
almonds,  for jam. 
 
 Une Omelette d' Huîtres  may be made with four
 raw eggs,  a little  cream,  beaten up either with or without
 sweet herbs  and grated  ham,  but seasoned with a little
 salt,   pepper,  and  nutmeg,  together with a dozen
 oysters  bearded, dried, minced very small, and fried in
 butter.  
 
 
  1413.--OMELETTE
SOUFFLÉE. Take six  eggs,  separate the  whites  from
the  yolks,  add to the  yolks  a table-spoonful of  arrowroot 
or  potato-flour,  six ounces of pounded  loaf-sugar,  some grated
 lemon-peel,  and a small quantity  of
 lemon-zest,  or chopped peel, or  orange-flower water.  Beat the whole
together for several minutes, until they are made into a batter, and then
 whip  the  whites  until they become a froth; stir in lightly the
batter. Have ready an omelet-pan of the proper size heated upon the stove; put
into it a quarter of a pound of  butter,  and when it begins to boil put
the whole into the pan, and stir it with a spoon carefully until it becomes
partially firm. That done, turn it out upon a small circular dish, of silver or
metal, as the omelet ought to acquire the form of a dome, and the dish be
placed in a very moderately heated oven for at least ten mintues or a quarter
of an hour, according to the care and nicety with which it has been made; after
which it will have risen into a puff of considerable height, similar to the
fashionable supper dish, "trifle." It should then be sprinkled with a little
 powdered sugar,  the salamander held over it, and be served
immediately. 
 An Omelette Souffle should not be cooked till the moment it is wanted. Its
whole delicacy, indeed, depends upon its being quickly baked, being very light,
and, as Dr. Kitchiner observes, its making but one movement--viz.: from the
fire to the throat of the guest. The great art is to make it light, foamy, and,
as it were, effervescent. 
 
 
  1414.--ŒUFS FRITS, OR
FRIED EGGS. Break some fresh  eggs  into a dish, without damaging
the  yolks,  and powder over them a little  pepper  and  salt. 
Then fry some  butter;  a quarter of a pound will do for a dozen
 eggs.  When the  butter  is completely fried, pour it over the
 eggs,  and then put them into the frying-pan, which keep at a little
distance from the fire, for fear the  eggs  should stick. When they are
done at the bottom, use the salamander for the top, till they turn
 white.  Then dish without breaking them, and pour over them a little
 vinegar.  
 
 
  1415.--PLAIN BAKED
EGGS.  Butter  with one ounce a plated or common
 tart -dish, that will  bear  the heat of the oven; break carefully
six  eggs  in it, season with one pinch of  pepper,  half a spoonful
of  salt,  the  juice  of half a  lemon,  and add half an ounce
of  butter  in small pieces over; put in a slack oven until set, and
serve. 
 
 
  1416.--RANDALLED
EGGS. Twelve  eggs  boiled  hard  and halved; cut a piece
from the ends of half of them to allow them to stand, take out the
 yolks,  chop them, and mix chopped boiled  ham  or  tongue, 
season with  nutmeg  and  mace,  moisten with  butter,  and put
it in the space within the  egg.  Put the halves together, and stand the
joined  eggs  on end in the dish. 
 
 
  1417.--ŒUFS
FARCIS. Boil six  eggs hard,  remove the shells, but leave the
 eggs  whole; cover them with a rich  forcemeat  made with scraped
 ham,  pounded  anchovy,  pounded  veal,  and  bacon fat, 
well pounded together and highly seasoned; brush them with the  yolk of
egg,  and dredge them with  bread-crumbs  or  vermicelli;  fry
them a pale gold color, or put them for a quarter of an hour in an oven, and
serve them up with  gravy  in the dish. 
 
 Œufs sur le plat  is a German mode of frying an
 egg  by means of a small  cheese  plate, which, being thoroughly
warmed, is greased in the 
 indented part  with a bit of  butter  or a very
little sweet- oil,  and into this part the  egg  is broken from the
shell, thus retaining the exact rotundity of the plate, which is then placed
upon the gridiron over a good fire. It  may be
slightly browned, if thought fit, with a salamander, but does not need it; and
though quite as delicate, yet renders the  egg  rather more  savory 
than by poaching. 
 
 
  1418.--EGGS AND
VEGETABLES. 
  Eggs  and  Spinach  .--Poach half a dozen
 eggs,  trim them nicely, and serve them upon  stewed spinach.  
 
  Eggs  and  Onions,   or 
 à la  Tripe  .-- Skin  six or eight
 onions,  mince them, put some  butter  into a stewpan and melt it,
add about two spoonfuls of  flour,  mix both well together, then add the
 onions,  and wet them with  milk,   cream  or  water;  let
them stew, taking care that the  onions  and  butter  do not become
brown; season with a little  salt  and  white pepper;  cut some
 hard eggs  into slices, and when the  sauce  is ready put them in;
make the whole very hot, and serve it up. 
 
 
  1419.--ŒUFS
BROUILLÉS. Break four or six  eggs;  beat them and put
them into a saucepan with a piece of  butter,  a little  salt,  and a
spoonful of  sauce  or  gravy,  which makes the  eggs  softer;
stir them over the fire until sufficiently thick; serve on a plate garnished
with  toasted bread.  To  eggs  dressed this way,  truffles, 
 ham,   mushrooms,  &c., minced, may be added. The difference
between this and an omelet is, that an omelet is compact and turns out smooth,
whereas 
 aufs brouillés  are less done, and are
therefore broken. 
 In Ireland, where it is in general use, it is usually served upon hot
 buttered toast,  and is there called "
 buttered  eggs  ." It is also very common in
France, where it is usually served for breakfast. 
 
 A very pretty dish of  eggs  is made
thus :--Break some  eggs  into a small  tart -dish, without
injuring the  yolks,  or lay-ing one over the other. Drop on them some
warm  butter,  and lightly strew crumbs of  bread.  Put it in the
oven until the  whites  be set, and serve with a wreath of  parsley 
round the edge. 
 
 
  1420.--EGGS WITH BURNT
BUTTER. Put into a frying pan two ounces of  butter,  which melt;
as soon as it is on the point of browning, put in the  eggs,  which have
been previously broken in a basin, and seasoned with  pepper  and
 salt;  when well set, serve, with a teaspoonful of  vinegar  over
the  eggs.  
 
 
  1421.--SNOW EGGS. Take
half a pint of  milk  and a little  sugar,  and flavor it with
 orange-flower water,  or any other essence, and put it in a stewpan on
the fire, having previously beaten up the  whites of six eggs  to a stiff
froth; if very hot weather, you must place the basin they are in on ice, or in
 cold water;  whilst beating add some  powdered sugar  lightly; when
the  milk  is boiling, take the  white  up with a table-spoon, and
drop it, one table-spoonful at a time, into the stewpan to poach, keeping the
shape of an  egg,  which turn over when set; when done, remove with a
colander on to a sieve, and dress them in a crown on the dish you intend to
serve them on; when all done, beat up the  yolks  of four of the
 eggs  in a stew-pan, with a little  sugar,  and a few drops of
 orange-flower water,  pour part of the boiling  milk  out of the
stewpan into it, sufficient to make a good stiff custard, put it on the fire
until rather thick, and pour over the  white,  and serve either hot or
cold: the last is preferable. 
 
 
  1422.--EGGS IN
CASES. Cut up a sheet of  paper  into pieces of three inches
square, turn up half an inch all round so as to form a kind of square case;
there will then remain but two inches square in the inside. Take a small piece
of  butter,  a pinch of fine  bread crumbs,  a little fine chopped
 parsley,  spring  onions,   salt,  and  pepper,  and  mix them together, put a little into each case, then
break one  egg  into each, put them on a gridiron over a slow fire, and do
them gently, or place them in a dish in an oven; when well set, serve. Small
round  paper  cases may be procured very cheap. 
 
 
  1423.--GARNITURE FOR
OMELETTES. 
  Asparagus,   Peas,  and  Green
Peas  .-- Put in a stewpan three spoonfuls of plain boiled
 asparagus,  that has previously been cut up, add to it half an ounce of
 butter,  a little  salt,   pepper,  and  sugar,  warm it
on the fire, moving it continually, when warm, put it with a spoon in the
centre of the omelette, turn over, and serve; the same with  peas;  rather
thin melted  butter  or  white sauce  may be served round it. 
 
  Oysters  .--Open and blanch delicately twelve
middle-sized  oysters,  and put them in a stewpan with their own
 gravy,  after having bearded them, add a tablespoonful of  milk  or
 cream,  and give it a boil, then add half an ounce of  butter,  in
which you have mixed a saltspoonful of  flour,  stir it in without
breaking the  oysters,  put over the centre of your omelette, and proceed
as before. 
 
  Lobster  .--Cut half or a small one in thin
slices, put four table-spoonfuls of melted  butter  in a stewpan, a few
drops of  essence of anchovies,  and a little  cayenne;  put in your
 lobster,  warm it well, and put it in the middle of the omelette, as
above. 
 
  Mushroom  .--Wash about ten small fresh
 mushrooms,  cut in slices, put in a stewpan, with half an ounce of
 butter,  a little  salt,   pepper,  and the  juice  of a
quarter of a  lemon,  simmer for a few minutes on the fire till tender; if
too liquid, add a little  flour,  place in centre of omelette, and proceed
as above. 
 
  Bacon.  --Cut two ounces of good  lean
bacon  in small dice, put in a pan to fry with a pat of  butter  for
one minute, then mix with the  eggs  prepared as for omelette of
 herbs,  omitting the  salt,  and cook the same way. This omelette is
in great repute in France, especially among the epicures of the Barrieres,
outside of Paris. It prepares the palate to receive with pleasure the cheap and
acid wines sold there, which must have been in vented by Bacchus when in a sour
humor. 
 
 
 
 
 
  TO MAKE BREAD. 
1424. For a good baking, take two and a half pecks of  wheat
flour;  put it into a kneading trough or earthen pan well glazed; make a
hole in the centre of the  flour  and pour in a pint or more of good
 brewer's yeast,  or still more of homemade, well mixed with a pint of
 milk-warm water.  Stir in, with a spoon,  flour  enough to make a
batter; sprinkle this with dry  flour,  and cover it entirely. Cover the
whole lightly with a cloth, and set it by the fire. This is 
 setting the sponge . When the batter has swelled and
risen so as to form cracks in the  flour  covering it, scatter through it
two table-spoonfuls of  fine salt,  and mix the  flour  with  soft
warm water,  added by degrees. Work and mould the dough thoroughly, kneading
it till smooth and light, and till not a particle will stick to the hands. Then
sprinkle a mass of dough with  flour,  cover it with a warm cloth, and let
it stand near the fire for an hour, or less in warm weather. It has now risen
to its height. Divide it into seven loaves; mould and form them lightly on the
 paste -board, put them on  flour ed tin or earthen plates, and place
them in the oven. 
 With good, dry,  hard  wood, the oven will be heated in an hour. When
the  coals  are spread over the bottom, the oven will be clear of smoke.
Clean and  sweep it, and throw in a little
 flour  to see if it is too hot; if it burns black at once, let the oven
cool a little. When the loaves are in, close the oven and keep it tight. The
loaves should be done in from an hour to an hour and a half. 
 When the loaves are baked, take them from the oven, and put them on a clean
shelf, in a cool pantry, with a light cloth over them. If the crust is
scorched, or the  bread  too much baked, wrap the loaves in a clean coarse
towel, slightly damped. 
 
 
  1425.--BROWN, OR DYSPEPSIA
BREAD. Take six quarts of  wheat meal,  rather coarsely ground,
one teacup of good  yeast,  and half a teacup of  molasses,  mix
these with a pint of  milk-warm water  and a teaspoonful of
 saleratus.  Make a hole in the meal and stir this mix ture in the middle
till it is like batter. Then proceed as with  fine flour bread.  Make the
dough, when sufficiently light, into four loaves, which will weigh two pounds
per loaf when baked. It requires a hotter oven than  fine flour bread, 
and must bake about an hour and a half. 
 
 
  1426.--RYE AND INDIAN
BREAD. There are many different proportions in the mixing of this
 bread.  Some put one-third  Indian  with two of  rye;  others
like one-third  rye  and two of  Indian;  others prefer it half and
half. 
 If you use the largest proportion of  rye meal,  make your dough stiff,
so that it will mould into loaves; when it is two-thirds  Indian,  it
should be softer and baked in deep earthen or tin pans after the following
rules: 
 Take 
 four quarts  of sifted  Indian meal : put it
into a glazed earthen pan, sprinkle over it a table-spoonful of  fine
salt;  pour over it about two quarts of  boiling water,  stir and work
it till every part of the meal is thoroughly wet;  Indian meal  absorbs a
greater quantity of  water.  When it is about  milk -warm, work in 
 two quarts of  rye meal,  half a pint  of
 lively yeast,  mixed with a pint of  warm water;  add more  warm
water  if needed. Work the mixture well with your hands: it should be stiff,
but not firm as  flour  dough. Have ready a large, deep, well buttered
pan; put in the dough, and smooth the top by putting your hand in  warm
water,  and then patting down the loaf. Set this to rise in a warm place in
the winter; in the summer it should not be put by the fire. When it begins to
crack, on the top, which will usually be in about an hour or an hour and a
half, put it into a well heated oven, and bake it three or four hours. It is
better to let it stand in the oven all night, unless the weather is warm.
 Indian meal  re quires to be well cooked. The loaf will weigh between
seven and eight pounds. 
 There is another mode which many persons think preferable. Scald a quart of
 rye  and another of  Indian meal  with a small quantity of
 boiling water.  Boil a teaspoonful of  salt  in a pint and a half of
 milk,  mix the  rye  and  Indian  to gether, and pour the
 milk  over them--add half a pint of fresh  yeast;  but not before
the meal is cooling. The mixture must be well kneaded and placed in a deep pan
by the fire to rise. When it has risen sufficiently, take it out of the pan,
make it into any shape you like, and put it into an oven well heated. If the
fire is too brisk the crust will brown and the inside remain heavy. 
 Bake from two to three hours. 
 
 
  1427.--TO MAKE EXCELLENT BREAD
WITHOUT YEAST. Scald about two handfuls of  Indian meal;  into
which put a little  salt,  and as much  cold water  as will make it
rather warmer than  new milk;  then stir in  wheat flour,  till it is
as thick as a family  pudding, and set it down by
the fire to rise. In about half an hour it generally grows thin; you may
sprinkle a little fresh  flour  on the top, and mind to turn the pot
round, that it may not bake at the side of it. In three or four hours, if you
mind the above directions, it will rise and ferment as if you had set it with
 hop yeast;  when it does, make it up in soft dough,  flour  a pan,
put in your  bread,  set it before the fire, covered up, turn it round to
make it equally warm, and in about half an hour it will be light enough to
bake. It suits best to bake it in a Dutch oven, as it should be put into the
oven as soon as it is light. 
 
 
  1428.--TO MAKE
YEAST. The settlings of home-brewed  beer  in a clean cask, make
good  yeast.  Common  yeast  is made thus: 
 Take two quarts of  water,  one handful of  hops,  two of  wheat
bran;  boil these twenty minutes; strain off the  water,  and while it
is boiling hot, stir in  wheat  or  rye flour,  to a thick batter:
when this is  milk -warm, add half a pint of good  lively yeast  and
a large spoonful of  molasses;  stir well and set it away, in a cool place
in summer and a warm one in winter. When light it is fit for use. When cold, it
may be put in a clean jug or bottle; do not fill the vessel containing it, and
leave the cork loose till next morning. Corked tightly, it will keep ten or
twelve days in a cool place. 
 
 
  1429.--MILK YEAST. To a
pint of  new milk  put a teaspoon ful of  salt  or a large spoonful
of  flour;  stir well, and keep it lukewarm by the fire; in an hour it
will be fit for use. Twice as much must be used as of com mon  yeast;  and
the  bread  dries soon; and in summer this method is convenient. 
 Never keep  yeast  in a tin vessel. If sour, put in  saleratus --a
teaspoonful to a pint of  yeast,  when ready for use. If it foams up
lively, it will raise the  bread;  if not, throw it away. 
 
 
  1430.--RICE BREAD. Boil
soft a pint of  rice;  when cold, add a pint of leaven, and work in three
quarts of  flour.  It will be light in an hour in warm weather. Divide the
dough into three loaves, and bake in buttered tin pans. It grows dry soon. 
 
 
  1431.--YEAST
CAKES. Boil three ounces  hops  in six quarts  water,  down
to two quarts. Strain it, and while boiling hot, stir in  wheat  or  rye
meal  to a batter. When  milk -warm, add half a pint of good
 yeast,  and let it stand till very light--about three hours. Then work in
sifted  Indian meal  till it is stiff dough. Roll out and cut it in cakes
three inches by two, half an inch thick. Lay these cakes on a smooth board,
 flour ed; prick them with a fork, and place them in a dry store room,
exposed to sun and air. Turn them every day. They will be dry in a fortnight.
When dry, put them into a coarse, cotton bag, and hang them in a cool, dry
place. They will keep a year. Two will raise a peck of  flour.  Break them
into a pint of  milk -warm,  water,  and stir in a spoonful of
 flour  the evening before you bake; then set it in a moderately warm
place till morning. 
  Bread  made at home is not only more palatable, but far more
economical. A stove will bake with little expense of fuel, and the  flour 
used for a family will cost one-third less than  bread  bought. You are
sure too, that good  flour  is used, and that your  bread  contains
no  alum,   ammonia,  or sulphate of zinc, which it is said bakers
put in to make their  bread  light and  white.  Baker's  bread 
is nearly tasteless, dries directly, and can not be as nutritious as
 bread  baked at home. 
 Ladies keeping house in the city ought  to make
their own  bread  as well as cake, or at least superintend the process. It
requires no sacrifice of time, and is a  neat,  delicate, and ladylike
employment. Three things, however, are requisite-- yeast  just lively
enough, dough just light enough, and an oven just hot enough. Practice will
show how to at tain perfection in these respects. 
 
 
  1432.--POTATO
BARM. Boil half an ounce of  hops  in four quarts of
 water,  and leave it till the  hops  sink; then strain it into an
earthen pot, and, when  milk -warm, add three table-spoonfuls of
 sugar  and half a pint of  flour,  leave it near the fire,
frequently stirring it, for twenty-four hours. Then add four pounds  potatoes 
pounded and pulped through a colander; they are best un boiled. When the
mixture is well risen, half a pint will do for four quarts of  flour.  The
 bread  requires much kneading, and should be left eight or ten hours to
rise. A few spoonfuls of  beer  barm are an improvement to the
 stock,  which should not be allowed to run out, as a little of the old
will improve a new supply. 
 
 Brick ovens  are the best for baking all kinds of
 bread,  large cakes and pies; the reason of which is chiefly owing to
their being generally capable of retaining the heat a much longer time than one
built of iron. 
 For the baking of pastry, light  bread,  rolls, and breakfast-cakes,
the iron ovens, fixed in the usual kitchen ranges, have the advantage of
requiring but little fire, and enabling the cook to regulate its
temperature. 
 
 
  1433.--ALMOND
BREAD. Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half a pound of shelled  sweet
almonds  till they are a smooth  paste,  adding  rose-water  as
you pound them. They should be done the day before they are wanted. Prepare a
pound of  loaf-sugar  finely powdered, a teaspoonful of  mixed
spice,   mace,   nutmeg  and  cinnamon,  and three-quarters
of a pound of sifted  flour.  Take fourteen  eggs,  and separate the
 whites  from the  yolks.  Leave out seven of the  whites,  and
beat the other seven to a stiff froth. Beat the  yolks  till very thick
and smooth, and then beat the  sugar  gradually into them, adding the
 spice.  Next stir in the  white of egg,  then the  flour,  and
lastly the  almonds.  You may add twelve drops of  essence of
lemon.  
 Put the mixture into a square tin pan, well buttered, or into a copper or
tin-turban mould, and set it immediately in a brisk oven. Ice it when cool. It
is best when eaten fresh. 
 You may add a few  bitter almonds  to the sweet ones. 
 
 
  1434.--DAMASCUS
BISCUITS. Take the  whites of three eggs  beaten to a froth, a
quarter of a pound of good  beef suet  chopped very fine, and half an
ounce of  bitter almonds  blanched, chopped fine, and beaten well with the
froth of the  eggs.  Then take the  yolks of the eggs,  and mix with
six ounces of sifted  loaf sugar,  beat well, pour into the mixture of
 almonds  and  whites of egg;  mix well, and shake in two ounces of
 flour,  with sufficient  lemon  to flavor them. Pour into small tins, or
moulded  papers,  and bake in a 
 quick  oven. 
 
 
  1435.--MILK BISCUITS. A
quarter of a pound of  butter,  one-quart of  milk,  one gill of
 yeast,  as much  flour  as will form the dough, and a little
 salt.  Stir  flour  into the  milk,  so as to form a very thick
batter, and add the  yeast;  this is called a sponge. This should be done
in the evening; in the morning cut up the  butter,  and set it near the
fire, where it will dissolve, but not get hot; pour the melted  butter 
into the sponge, then stir in enough  flour  to  form a dough, knead it well and stand it away to rise. As
soon as it is perfectly light,  butter  your tins, make out the dough in
small cakes, and let them rise. When they are light, hake them in a very quick
oven, and send them to the table hot. 
 
 
  1436.--ROLLS. 
  French Rolls   are usually made by the bakers,
but in country houses, where families bake their own  bread,  they may be
done as follows:-- 
 Sift one pound of  flour,  and rub into it two ounces of  butter; 
mix in the  whites  only of three  eggs  beaten to a froth, and a
table-spoonful of strong  yeast;  to which add enough of  milk,  with
a little  salt,  to make a stiff dough, and set it covered be fore the
fire to rise--which will take about an hour; and, if cut into small rolls, and
put into a quick oven, will be done in little more than ten minutes. 
 
 
  1437.--ROCKS. Take a
loaf that is half baked, pull it apart, and with two forks tear the crumb into
bits about the size of a  walnut;  lay them on a tin, and return them to
the oven, and bake of a light brown. A loaf made for the purpose with
 milk  and a little  butter  makes them nicer. A sweet cake pulled in
this way is very good. 
 
 
  1438.--MUFFINS. Take
two  eggs,  two spoonfuls of new  yeast,  and a little  salt. 
Mix a little warm  new milk  and  water  into a quart of
 flour.  Beat all well together, and let it stand to rise. Bake them for
about twenty minutes, until of a light brown, either on a hot iron, or in
shallow tin rings in a Dutch oven. When to be brought to table,  toast 
them slightly on both sides, but not in the middle: then notch them round the
centre, and pull them open with your fingers, without using a knife, and
 butter  them. 
 
 
  1439.--CRUMPETS. Beat
two  eggs  very well, put to them a quart of warm  milk  and
 water,  and a large spoonful of  yeast;  beat in as much  fine
flour  as will make them rather thicker than a common batter pudding; then
make the stove hot, and rub it with a little  butter  wrapped in a clean
linen cloth; pour a large spoonful of the batter upon the iron, and let it run
within a ring to the size of a teasaucer; turn them with the elastic blade of
an old table-knife, and when you want to use them,  toast  them very
quickly, but not too crisply, and  butter  them. 
 
 
  1440.--SALLY-LUNN. Into
one pint of  flour  rub a piece of  butter  the size of a
 walnut,  a little  salt,  and a little  yeast.  Let it rise
half an hour before the fire. Then mix it with two  eggs,  and if not
enough add a little  milk;  knead the dough well and let it stand some
minutes before the fire; after which make this quantity into five cakes and
have them slack-baked, as they must be well warmed in a Dutch oven before being
toasted for table. 
 
 
  1441.--BUCKWHEAT
CAKES. Mix a quart of  buckwheat flour  with a pint of lukewarm
 milk,  ( water  will do, but is not as good,) and a teacup of
 yeast --set it in a warm place to rise. When light, (which will be in the
course of eight or ten hours if  family yeast  is used, if  brewer's
yeast  is used they will rise much quicker,) add a teaspoonful of
 salt  --if sour, the same quantity of  saleratus  dissolved in a
little  milk,  and strained. If they are too thick, thin them with  cold
milk  or  water.  Bake them with just  fat  enough to prevent
their sticking to the griddle. 
 
 
  1442.--RICE CAKES. Boil
a cupful of  rice  until it becomes  soft;
while it is warm mix a large lump of  butter  with it and a little
 salt.  Add as much  milk  to a small teacupful of  flour  and a
little  corn meal,  scalded, as will make a tolerably stiff batter--stir
it until it is quite smooth and then mix it with the  rice.  Beat five
 eggs  as light as possible and add them to the  rice.  
 These cakes are fried on a griddle as all other pancakes--they must be
carefully turned. 
 Serve them with  powdered sugar  and  nutmeg.  They should be
served as hot as possible. 
 
 
  1443.--FLANNEL CAKES AND
WAFFLES. Stir into two pints of  flour  as much  milk  as
will make a light batter. Melt a large lump of  butter  and add with it a
little  salt.  Beat together five  eggs  and stir them into the
batter. 
 These cakes are to be baked on a griddle. Serve them with  powdered
sugar.  
 It is customary to mix with the  butter  a table-spoonful of
 yeast  and leave it to rise for several hours; but this is un necessary
unless you wish to bake the cakes in waffle or wafer irons. 
 
 
  1444.--EGG BISCUIT. One
pound of  flour;  wet nearly all of it to a  paste  with the
 whites of two eggs,  beat and roll out thin, work in three-quarters of a
pound of  butter,  placing bits on the  paste,   flour ing,
folding, and rolling it out again till all is used. Move the rolling pin from
you always. Out out in small squares or with a tumbler, and bake in a quick
oven. 
 
 
  1445.--APPLE BREAD. A
very light pleasant  bread  is made in France by a mixture of
 apples  and  flour,  in the proportion of one of the former to two
of the latter. The usual quantity of  yeast  is employed as in making
common  bread,  and is beat with  flour  and warm  pulp  of the
 apples  after they have boiled, and the dough is then considered as set:
it is then put in a proper vessel, and allowed to rise for eight or twelve
hours, and then baked in long loaves. Very little  water  is requisite;
none, ge nerally, if the  apples  are very fresh. 
 
 
  1446.--JOHNNY
CAKES. Sift a quart of  corn meal  into a pan, make a hole in the
middle, and pour in a pint of  warm water.  Mix the meal and  water 
gradually into a batter, adding a teaspoonful of  salt;  beat it very
quickly, and for a long time, till it becomes quite light; then spread it thick
and even on a stout piece of smooth board; place it upright on the hearth
before a clear fire, with something to support the board be hind, and bake it
well; cut it into squares, and split and  butter  them hot. 
 Cakes may also be made with a quart of  milk,  three  eggs,  one
teaspoonful of  carbonate of soda,  and one teacupful of
 wheat-flour;  add  Indian meal  sufficient to make a batter like
that of pancakes, and either bake it in buttered pans, or upon a griddle, and
eat them with  butter.  
 
 
  1447.--INDIAN GRIDDLE
CAKES Are made with one pint of  Indian meal,  four
table-spoonfuls of  flour,  one quart of  milk,  four  eggs, 
and  salt  to taste. 
 
 
  1448.--TO MAKE
RUSK. Take a piece of  bread -dough large enough to fill a quart
bowl, one teacup of melted  butter,  one  egg,  one teaspoon ful of
 saleratus;  knead quite  hard,  roll out thin, lap it together, roll
to the thick ness of a thin  biscuit,  cut out with a bis cuit mould, and
set it to rise in a warm place. From twenty to thirty minutes will generally be
sufficient. Bake them and dry thoroughly through, and you  will have an excellent rusk to eat with your  coffee. 
You can make them with  hop yeast,  and sweeten them, too, if you please;
use  milk  with  yeast.  
 
 
  1449.--BANNOCK OR INDIAN MEAL
CAKES.   Stir to a  cream  a pound and a quarter of  brown
sugar,  a pound of  butter --beat six  eggs,  and mix them with
the  sugar  and  butter --add a teaspoonful of cinna mon or
 ginger --stir in a pound and three-quarters of  white Indian meal, 
and a quarter of a pound of  wheat flour,  (the meal should be sifted,)
Bake it in small cups, and let it remain in them till cold. 
 
 Corn Cake Pan. 
 An illustration of a corn cake pan. 
 
 
 
  1450.--RUSK. Melt four
ounces of  butter  in half a pint of  new milk;  then add to this
seven  eggs,  well beaten, a quarter of a pint of  yeast,  and three
ounces of  sugar;  put this mixture, by degrees, into as much  flour 
as will make an extremely light  paste,  more like batter, and set it to
rise before the fire for half an hour; then add more  flour  to make it
rather stiffer, but not stiff. Work it well, and divide it into small loaves or
cakes, about five or six inches wide, and flatten them. When baked and cold,
slice them the thickness of rusks, and brown them a little in the oven. 
 
 
  1461.--MUFFINS. Mix a
quart of  wheat flour  smoothly with a pint and a half of lukewarm
 milk,  half a teacup of  yeast,  a couple of beaten  eggs,  a
heaping teaspoonful of  salt,  and a couple of table-spoonfuls of lukewarm
melted  butter.  Set the batter in a warm place to rise. When light,
 butter  your muffin-cups, turn in the mixture, and bake the muffins till
a light brown. 
 
 
  1452.--SOFT
WAFFLES. Stir into a quart of  flour  sufficient lukewarm
 milk  to make a thick batter. The  milk  should be stirred in
gradually, so as to have it free from lumps. Put in a table-spoonful of melted
 butter,  a couple of beaten  eggs,  a teaspoonful of  salt, 
and half a teacup of  yeast.  When risen, fill your waffle-irons with the
batter--bake them on a bed of  coals.  When they have been on the fire
between two and three minutes, turn the waffle-irons over--when brown on both
sides, they are sufficiently baked. The waffle-irons should be well greased
with  lard,  and very hot, before each one is put in. The waffles should
be buttered as soon as cooked. Serve them up with powder ed  white sugar 
and  cinnamon.  
 
 For  Rice  Waffles. --Take a teacup and a half
of boiled  rice --warm it with a pint of  milk,  mix it smooth, then
take it from the fire, stir in a pint of  cold milk,  and a teaspoonful of
 salt.  Beat four  eggs,  and stir them in, together with sufficient
 flour  to make a thick batter. 
 
 
  1453.--SHORT
CAKES. Dissolve half a pound of fresh  butter  in as much
 milk  as will make a pound and a half of  flour  into a
 paste,  roll it out about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut it into
large round cakes. Do them in a frying-pan, and serve them hot. They are eaten
with  butter.  
 
 
  1454.--WAFER
CAKES. Wafer cakes are an excellent  tea  cake, and they do not
take long to make, although a little practice is necessary be fore they can be
successfully made. 
 Beat three  eggs  quite light. Wash a little less than a quarter of a
pound of  butter,  to  extract  the  salt  from it, and mix it
with a quarter of a pound of  sifted
 sugar --add the beaten  eggs,  a tea-spoonful of  rose-water, 
and as much sifted  flour  as will make a thin batter. Stir the batter
with a wooden spoon until it is perfectly smooth and so light as to break when
it falls against the sides of the vessel. Your wafer-iron should be heated, but
not too hot, or the  butter  will burn.  Grease  the iron with
 butter  tied up in a  linen rag,  twice doubled. Fill the iron with
the batter and close it. Place it in the fire in such a manner that both sides
will heat at once; if this cannot be done turn the iron frequently. The batter
will be cooked in about two minutes if properly managed. 
 You may sprinkle the wafer with pounded  sugar  and roll it over a
smooth stick made for the purpose. 
 Southern  biscuit  is made with a large spoonful of  lard  to a
pint of  flour;  add  salt,  knead the dough, and beat it well. 
 
 
  1455.--MILK TOAST. Boil
a pint of  rich milk,  and then take it off and stir into it a quarter of
a pound of fresh  butter,  mixed with a small table-spoonful of
 flour.  Then let it again come to a boil. Have ready two deep plates with
half a dozen slices of  toast  in each. Pour the  milk  over them
hot, and keep them covered till they go to table.  Milk toast  is
generally eaten at breakfast. 
 The warming of the  bread  gradually through, on both sides, is a very
great improvement upon the quality of the  toast.  
 All kinds of  toast  must be done the same way; but if to be served
under a bird,  eggs,  or  kidneys,  it requires to be toasted
drier. 
 Dry  toast  should not be made until quite ready to serve; when done,
place it in a  toast -rack, or upon its edges, one piece resting against
another. Any kind of  toast  that has been made half an hour is not worth
eating. 
 
 
  1456.--MILK ROLLS. Have
a convenient-sized basin, into which put half a pound of the best  flour, 
making a hole in the middle; add half an ounce of  yeast,  one ounce of
 butter,  a teaspoonful of  powdered sugar,  and half ditto of
 salt,  over which pour three large wineglassfuls of lukewarm  milk; 
mix the whole, by degrees, with your hand, (using a little more  flour, )
until forming a stiffish  paste;  rub off the  paste  which adheres
to your fingers, and form the whole into a ball, which leave at the bottom of
the basin, covered over with a clean cloth, and set it half an hour to rise, in
a warmish place, after which throw a little  flour  upon a dresser, cut
the  paste  into pieces the size of  eggs,  mould them of a round,
oval, or any other shape you may fancy,  egg  over with a
 paste -brush, and place them upon a baking-sheet, or upon the bottom of
the oven if clean and not too hot; bake quickly. 
 Rolls are made with  soda  and  cream of tartar;  a teaspoonful of
the first to two of the latter. Or, with  sour cream  and  soda, 
instead of  yeast.  
 
 
  1457.--TOPS AND
BOTTOMS. Make a dough as for rusks, but using only half the
 butter;  have a deep-edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when the dough
is ready, turn it on to a dress er, well  flour ed; divide into small
pieces the size of  walnuts,  which mould into round balls, and place
close together upon the baking-sheet; put them in a warm place to rise, and
bake well in a moderate oven. When cold, divide and cut each one in halves
(making a top and bottom) which brown in the oven. 
 
 
  1458.--BUNS. Put three
pounds of  flour  in an earthen pan, make a hole in the middle, in which
put some  yeast,  dissolved in three  parts
of a pint of  warm water,  and stir in a little of the  flour, 
forming a thinnish batter; let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour, until
well fermented; then add half a pound of  sugar,  a few  currants, 
and half a pound of  butter,  dissolved in nearly a pint of warm
 milk;  mix the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough; let it
remain in a warm place until it rises very light, then turn it out of the pan
on to a board; work it well with the hands, shaking  flour  over lightly;
then mould it into small round balls, double the size of  walnuts , which
place upon a buttered baking-sheet four inches apart; moisten the tops with
 milk;  put them in a warm place to rise; not, however, permitting them to
crack, and bake them in a hot oven. 
 
 
  1459.--SOYER'S BRIOCHE
ROLLS. Put four pounds of  flour  upon a dress er, one pound of
which put on one side, make a hole in the middle, into which pour nearly three
parts of a pint of  warm water,  in which you have dissolved  yeast; 
mix it into a stiff but delicate  paste,  which roll up into a ball: cut
an incision across it, and lay it in a basin well  flour ed, in a warm
place, until becoming very light; then make a large hole in the centre of the
three pounds of  flour,  into which put half an ounce of  salt,  two
pounds of fresh  butter,  half a gill of  water,  and sixteen
 eggs;  mix it into a softish flexible  paste,  which press out flat,
lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and working with the hands until well
amalgamated;  flour  a clean cloth, fold the  paste  in it and let it
remain all night. In the morning mould them into small rolls; put them upon a
baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless your breakfast party be very
large, half the above quantity will be sufficient. These rolls being a luxury,
I make them only upon very especial occasions. 
 
 
 BUTTER.   Mrs. Hale says: "Always to make 
 good  butter or cheese shows great care and 
excellent judgment in the farmer's wife. When every department of the dairy
is kept perfectly neat, there is hardly any exhibition of woman's indus try
more likely to make her husband proud, or gratify a beholder of good sense and
benevolence, than the sight of a neat dairy-room filled with the rich, valuable
productions which her skill has fashioned from the milk of the cow. 
 "The secret of success in the dairy is strict attention and scrupulous
neatness in all its operations. The best time to make butter is in June, when
the pastures are rich with clover and September, when the 
 fall  feed is in its perfection. July and August are
the months for cheese; then the rich new milk and cream cheeses are made. 
 "To insure good butter, you must always scald your pails, &c, in hot
water, and then heat them by the fire, or in the hot sun, so that they may be
perfectly sweet. 
 "Keep your cream in a cool place in summer, and churn twice a week. 
 
 "Work out all the buttermilk. --This must be done, or
the butter will not keep well; and do not make the butter too salt.   "Never
put butter in a pine tub. 
 
 "Pickle for Butter. --Allow half a pound of salt, an
ounce of saltpetre, and half a pound of sugar to three quarts of water;
dissolve them together; scald and skim the pickle; let it be entirely cold, and
then pour it over the butter 
 "Keep your cheese in a dark, cool room, and turn and rub them every day. The
fat fried out of salt pork, is the best preservative to rub on cheese, and
gives a rich color and smoothness to the rind.  
 "Never wash your cheese shelves; but always wipe them clean with a dry
cloth, when you turn your cheese. 
 "Do not heat the milk too hot; it should never, for new milk cheese, be more
than blood-warm; be sure that your rennet is good, and do not use more than it
requires' to bring the curd. 
 "Cover the pan or tub in which milk is set to coagulate, and do not disturb
it for half an hour or more. 
 "Cut the curd, when fully formed, carefully with a knife; never break it
with your hand; and be very particular, when draining it from the whey, not to
squeeze or handle the curd; if you make the white whey run from the curd, you
lose much of the richness of the cheese." 
 
  1460.--TO CUBE BUTTER IN THE
BEST MANNER. The following receipt is from "The Housewife's Manual," a
work said to have been prepared by Sir 
 Walter Scott . 
 Having washed and beaten the  butter  free of  buttermilk,  work
it quickly up, allowing a scanty half ounce of  fine salt  to the pound.
Let the  butter  lie for twenty-four hours, or more; then, for every
pound, allow a half ounce of the following mixture:--Take four ounces of
 salt,  two of  loaf sugar,  and a quarter of an ounce of
 saltpetre.  Beat them all well together, and work the mixture thoroughly
into the  butter;  then pack it down in jars or tubs. Instead of strewing
a layer of  salt  on the top of the  butter,  which makes the first
slice unfit for use, place a layer of the above mixture in folds of thin
muslin, stitch it loosely, and lay this neatly over the top, which will
effectually  preserve  it. 
 
 To freshen  salt butter  .--Churn it anew in
 sweet milk,  a quart to the pound. The  butter  will gain in
weight. 
 
 To improve rancid  butter  .--Wash it, melt it
gradually, skim it, and put to it a slice of charred or  hard toasted
bread,  or some bits of  charcoal.  
 
 
  1461.--TO MAKE
BUTTER. The  milk  pans should be scalded every day. After the
 milk  has stood twenty-four hours skim off the  cream,  and deposit
it in a large earthen jar kept closely covered. Stir up the  cream  with a
stick every day to prevent the  skin  from gathering.  Butter  of
only two or three days is best. Strain the  cream  from the jar into the
churn and put on the lid. In warm weather move the handle slowly, or the
 butter  will be too soft. When the handle moves with great difficulty the
 butter  has come. Take it out with a wooden ladle and squeeze out the
remains of  milk.  Add a little  salt  and work it well. Set it in a
cool place for three hours, then work it again. Wash it in  cold water, 
and put it away for use. 
 
 
  1462.--BUTTER--TO
CLARIFY. Scrape off the outsides of the  butter  you may require,
and then put it into a stewpan by the side of a slow fire, where it must remain
till the scum rises to the top and the  milk  settles at the bottom;
carefully with a spoon take off the scum; when clear, it is fit for use. 
 
 To  preserve  it for winter,  take two parts of
the best  common salt,  one part of good  loaf sugar,  and one part
 salt  petre, beat them well together; to sixteen ounces of  butter 
thoroughly cleansed from the  milk  put one ounce of the above
composition, work it well, and put it into pots when quite firm and cold. 
 
 
 
 CAKES, &c. 
 In making cakes it is indispensably necessary that all the ingredients
should be heated before they are mixed together, 
for which purpose every thing should be prepared for an hour or two previously
to their being wanted, and placed near the fire or upon a stove--the flour
thoroughly dried and warmed the currants, sugar, carraway-seed, and any thing
else required, heated in the same way; butter and eggs should be beaten in
basins fitted into kettles or pans of warm water, which will give them the
requisite degree of temperature. Without these precautions cakes will be heavy,
and the best materials, with the greatest pains, will fail to produce the
desired results. 
 Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a cloth, and then set before
the fire. If damp, they will make cakes or puddings heavy. Before they are to
be used, a dust of dry flour should be thrown among them, and a shake given to
them, which causes the cakes to be lighter. 
 Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yolks apart, and always
strained. 
 Sugar should be pounded in a mortar, or rubbed to a powder on a clean board,
and sifted through a very fine hair or lawn sieve. 
 Lemon-peel should be grated or pared very thin, and, with a little sugar,
beaten in a marble mortar to a paste; and then mixed with a little wine or
cream, so as to divide easily among the other ingre dients. The pans should be
of earthen ware; nor should eggs or batter and sugar be beaten in tins, as the
coldness of the metal will prevent them from be coming light. 
 Use no flour but the best superfine; for if the flour be of inferior quality
the cakes will be heavy, ill-colored, and unfit to eat; but if a little
potato-flour be added, it will improve their lightness. Cakes are frequently
rendered hard, heavy, and uneatable, by misplaced economy in eggs and butter,
or for want of a due seasoning in spice and sugar. 
 
 An illustration of an iron oven with the label "cake".
 
 
 After all the articles are put into the pan, they should be thoroughly and
long beaten, as the lightness of the cake de pends much on their being well in
corporated. 
 Accuracy in proportioning the ingre dients is also indispensable; and there
fore scales, weights, and measures, down to the smallest quantity, are of the
ut most importance. 
 
 An illustration of an iron oven with the label
"crackers". 
 
 
 Iron ovens  are desirable, as well for their economy
of fuel as for the short time in which they can be heated, and on account of
the celerity and convenience with which one person may prepare large quantities
of small pastry, and bake it also. 
 The most vigilant care and attention are necessary in order to secure
success in the baking of delicate pastry or cakes; for however well they may
have been prepared, if not equally well baked, the result will be
unsatisfactory. 
 If the oven be not lighted long enough to have a body of heat, or if it is
become slack, the cake will be heavy. If not pretty quick, the batter will not
rise.  Should you fear its being too quick, put
some paper over the cake to prevent its being burnt. To know when it is
soaked, take a broad-bladed knife that is very bright, and plunge it into the
very centre, draw it instantly out, and if the least stickiness adheres, put
the cake imme diately in again, and shut up the oven. 
 If the heat should be sufficient to raise, but not to soak it, let fresh
fuel be quickly put in, and the cakes kept hot until the oven is fit to finish
the soaking. 
 Bread and cakes mixed with milk eat best when new, but become
stale sooner than others. 
 Cakes kept in drawers or wooden boxes have a disagreeable taste. Earthen
pans and covers, or tin boxes, preserve them best; but in making large
cakes of any kind, which are to be baked in hoops, use those of wood. Cakes
made with yeast should always be eaten fresh. 
 
  1463.--PLUM CAKE
(English). Mix thoroughly two quarts of fine flour, well dried,
with one pound of dry and sifted loaf-sugar, three pounds of
currants washed and very dry, half a pound of raisins stoned and
chopped, one-quarter of an ounce each of mace, cloves, and
cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, the peel of a lemon cut as fine
as possible, and half a pound of almonds, blanched and beaten with
orange-flower water. Melt two pounds of butter in one and a
quarter pint of cream, but not hot; put to it one pint of sweet
wine, a glass of brandy and another of rose-water, with the
whites and yolks of twelve eggs beaten apart, and half a pint of
good yeast. Strain this liquor by degrees into the dry ingredients,
beating them to gether a full hour; then butter the hoop or pan, and
bake it in a moderate oven for at least four hours. As you put in the batter,
throw in plenty of citron, lemon, and orange candy. 
 If you ice the cake, when it is nearly cold pour the icing over, and return
it to the oven, where it should be left all night, or until it becomes cold;
but if the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, and the door open, lest the
color be spoiled; or the icing may be left until the next morning. 
  1464.--PLUM NEW ENGLAND WEDDING CAKE. 
 One pound of dry flour, one pound of sweet butter, one pound
of sugar, twelve eggs, two pounds of raisins, (the
sultana raisins are the best,) two pounds of cur rants, as much
spice as you please. A glass of wine, one of brandy, and a
pound of citron. Mix the butter and sugar as for pound
cake. Sift the spice, and beat the eggs very light. Put in
the fruit last, stirring it in gradually. It should be well
floured. If necessary add more flour after the fruit is
in. Butter sheets of paper, and line the inside of one large pan,
or two smaller ones. Lay in some slices of citron, then a layer of the
mix ture, then of the citron, and so on till the pan is full. This cake
requires a toler ably hot and steady oven, and will need baking four or five
hours, according to its thickness. It will be better to let it cool gradually
in the oven. Ice it when thoroughly cold.   1465.--FROSTING CAKES. 
 Allow for the white of one egg nine heaping teaspoonfuls of
double-refined sugar, and one of nice starch. The sugar
and starch should be pounded and sifted through a very fine sieve. Beat
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, so that you can turn the plate
upside down, without the eggs falling from it--then stir in the
sugar gradually with a wooden spoon--stir it ten or fifteen minutes
without any cessation--then add a teaspoonful of lemon juice,
(vinegar will answer, but is not as nice,)--put in  sufficient rose-water to flavor it. If you wish to
color it pink, stir in a few grains of cochineal powder, or rose pink;
if you wish to have it of a blue tinge, add a little of what is called powder
blue. Lay the frosting on the cake with a knife, soon after it is taken from
the oven--smooth it over, and let it remain in a cool place till hard.
To frost a common-sized loaf of cake, allow the white of one egg, and
half of another.   1466.--SMALL PLUM CAKE. 
 One pound and a half of raisins, one pound and a half of
currants, half a pound of butter, half a pound of flour,
five eggs, half a teacup of molasses, half a pound of
sugar, half a pound of citron, one gill of brandy,
spice to taste, three nutmegs.    Cake Mould,
with Cylinder.  An illustration of a cake mould on the left and the cylinder on the right.     1467.--GERMAN SUGAR CAKES. 
 Blend well with the fingers sis ounces of good butter, with a pound
of fine flour, working it quite into crumbs; add a few grains of
salt, one pound of dry sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of the best
cinnamon in very fine powder, and a large teaspoonful of spices:
to these the grated rinds of three sound fresh lemons can be
added, or not, at pleasure. Make these ingredients into a paste, with
the yolks of five eggs, and about four table-spoonfuls of white
wine, or with one or two more in addition, if required, as this must be
regulated by the size of the eggs: half of very thick cream and
half of wine are sometimes used for them. Roll the mixture into balls,
flatten them to something less than three-quarters of an inch thick, and bake
them in a moderate oven from fifteen to twenty min utes. Loosen them from the
baking-sheets--which should be lightly floured before they are laid
on--by passing a knife under them, turn them over, and when they are quite
cold, stow them in a dry, close-shutting canister. The Germans make three
incisions on the top of each cake with the point of a knife, and lay spikes of
split almonds in them.   1468.--BRIDE CAKE. 
 Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in plain water
first, and then in rose-water; beat the butter to a cream;
beat twenty eggs, yolks and whites separately, half an hour each.
Have ready two pounds and a half of the finest flour, well dried and
kept hot, likewise one pound and a half of sugar pounded and sifted, one
ounce of spice in fine powder, three pounds of currants nicely
cleaned and dry, half a pound of almonds blanched, and three-quarters of a
pound of sweetmeats cut, not too thin. Let all be kept by the fire, mix
all the dry ingredients, pour the eggs strained to the butter,
but beat the whites of the eggs to a strong froth; mix half a pint of
sweet wine with the same quantity of brandy, pour it to the
butter and eggs, mix well, then have all the dry things put in by
degrees; beat them very thoroughly--you can hardly do it too much. Having half
a pound of stoned jar-raisins chopped as fine as possible, mix them
carefully, so that there should be no lump, and add a teacupful of
orange-flower water; beat the ingredients together a full hour at least.
Have a hoop well buttered; take a white paper, doubled and buttered, and
put in the pan round the edge; do not fill it more than three parts with
batter, as space should be allowed for rising. Bake in a quick oven. It will
require full three hours. In making cakes of a larger size, put at the rate of
eight eggs to every pound of  flour,
and other ingredients in the same proportion. 
 The cake must be covered with an icing.   1469.--QUEEN CAKE. 
 Mix one pound of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar and of
washed currants. Wash one pound of butter in rose-water,
beat it well, then mix with it eight eggs, yolks and whites
beaten separately, and put in the dry ingredients by degrees; beat the whole an
hour; butter little tins, teacups, or saucers, filling them only half
full. Sift a little fine sugar over just as you put them into the
oven.   1470.--PLAIN FRUIT CAKE. 
 One loaf of bread, half a cup of butter, and half a cupful of
sugar, half do. of molasses, half do. of buttermilk, half
do. of currants, one do. of raisins, half do. citron,
three eggs, one teaspoonful salera tus. Season to taste; brandy
if you choose.   1471.--ALMOND CAKE. 
 Blanch half a pound of sweet, and three ounces of bitter
almonds--pound them to a paste in a mortar with orange-flower
water--add half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, and a little
brandy--whisk separately, for half an hour, the whites and yolks of
twenty eggs, and the yolks to the almonds and sugar, and then
stir in the whites, and beat them all well to gether. Butter a
tin pan, sift bread-raspings over it, put the cake into it, over the top
of which strew sifted loaf-sugar. Bake it in a quick oven for half or
three-quarters of an hour.   1472.--HONEY CAKE. 
 One pound and a half of dried and sifted flour, three-quarters of a
pound of honey, half a pound of finely pounded loaf sugar, a
quarter of a pound of citron, and half an ounce of orange-peel
cut small; of pounded ginger and cinnamon three-quarters of an
ounce. Melt the sugar with the honey, and mix in the other
ingredients; roll out the paste, and cut it into small cakes of any
form.   1473.--COCOA-NUT CAKES. 
 Take equal weights of grated cocoa-nut and powdered white
sugar, (the brown part of the cocoa-nut should be cut off before
grating it,)--add the whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth in the
proportion of half a dozen to a pound each of cocoa-nut and
sugar. There should be just eggs enough to wet up the whole
stiff. Drop the mixture on buttered plates, in parcels of the size of a cent,
several inches apart. Bake them immediately in a moderately warm oven. 
 1474.--SAVOY CAKES. 
 Beat eight eggs to a froth--the whites and yolks should
be beaten separately, then mixed together, and a pound of powdered white
sugar stirred in gradu ally. Beat the whole well together, for eight or ten
minutes, then add the grated rind of a fresh lemon, and half the
juice, a pound of sifted flour, a couple of table-spoonfuls of
coriander seed. Drop this mixture by the large spoonful on but tered
baking plates, several inches apart, sift white sugar over them, and
bake them immediately in a quick oven.   1475.--SPONGE CAKE. 
 Take the weight of ten eggs in pow dered loaf sugar, beat it
to a froth with the yolks of twelve eggs, put in the grated rind
of a fresh lemon, leaving out the white part--add half the
juice. Beat the whites of twelve eggs to a stiff froth, and mix
them with the sugar and butter. Stir the whole without any
cessation for fifteen minutes, then stir in gradually  the weight of six eggs in sifted flour. As
soon as the flour is well mixed in, turn the cake into pans lined with
but tered paper--bake it immediately in a quick, but not a furiously hot
oven. It will bake in the course of twenty minutes. If it bakes too fast, cover
it with thick paper.   1476.--POUND CAKE. 
 Mix a pound of sugar with a pound of butter. When worked
white, stir in the yolk of eight eggs, beaten to a froth, then
the whites. Add a pound of sifted flour, and mace or
nutmeg to the taste. If you wish to have your cake particularly nice,
stir in, just before you put it into the pans, a quarter of a pound of
citron, or almonds blanched and powdered fine in rose-water,
and a glass of brandy.   1477.--JUMBLES. 
 Stir together, till of a light color, a pound of sugar and half the
weight of butter---then add eight eggs, beaten to a froth,
essence of lemon, or rose-water, to the taste, and flour
to make them sufficiently stiff to roll out. Roll them out in powdered
sugar, about half an inch thick, cut it into strips about half an inch
wide, and four inches long, join the ends together, so as to form rings, lay
them on flat tins that have been buttered and bake them in a quick oven. 
 1478.--NEW-YEAR'S COOKIES. 
 Weigh out a pound of sugar, three-quarters of a pound of
butter--stir them to a cream, then add three beaten eggs,
a grated nutmeg, two table-spoonfuls of caraway seed, and a pint
of flour. Dissolve a teaspoonful of saleratus in a tea cup of
milk, strain and mix it with half a teacup of cider, and stir it
into the cookies--then add flour to make them sufficiently stiff to roll
out. Bake them as soon as cut into cakes, in a quick oven, till a light
brown.   1479.--NEW YORK CUP CAKE. 
 One cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, one of
milk or cream; four eggs, a wine-glass of brandy--a
nutmeg grated, a teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of
tartar. Dissolve the soda in the milk rub the cream of
tartar dry in the flour.   1480.--WASHINGTON CAKE. 
 One and three-quarter pounds flour, one and a quarter sugar,
three-quarters of a pound of butter, four eggs, two tea-spoonfuls
of cream of tartar, one of soda, half a pint of milk, two
pounds raisins, two glasses of brandy, one nutmeg,
spice to taste.   1481.--GINGER WAFERS. 
 Three cups sugar, two of butter, one of milk, three
table-spoonfuls of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of soda in the
milk; flour enough to make it a dough. Roll it very thin, and
bake in cakes.   1482.--INDIAN CORN CAKE. 
 One pint of milk, half a pound In dian-meal, two eggs; two
ounces butter, half a teaspoonful of soda, a whole one of
salt. Bake three-quarters of an hour.   1483.--SOYER'S ST. JAMES'S
CAKE. 
 Put one pound of very fresh butter in a good-sized kitchen basin, and
with the right hand work it up well till it forms quite a white cream;
then add one pound powdered sugar, mix well, add ten eggs by
degrees; put to dry a pound and a quarter of flour, which mix as lightly
as possible with it; blanch and cut in slices two ounces of pistachios, two
ditto of green preserved angelica, add two liquor glasses of noyeau, two
drops of essence of vanilla; whip a gill and a half of
cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, have a mould,
put it in, and send to the baker; it will  take
about one hour and a quarter to bake.   1484.--SOYER'S TURBAN OF ALMOND
CAKE ICED. 
 This is a very good and useful second course remove. Make half a pound of
puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the
thickness of a penny-piece have ready blanched and chopped a pound of sweet
almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar
and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required; spread it over
the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife cut the
paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in
breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown
color, in a moderate oven; dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff
jam or marmalade, so as to form a large crown, according to the size you
require it; then fill the interior with vanilla cream, or any other,
iced, but not too hard, and bring it up to a point; the cake may be cut
into any shape you fancy, but never make them too large.   1485.--CIDER CAKE. 
 Cider cake is very good, to be baked in small loaves. One pound and a
half of flour, half a pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of
butter, half a pint of cider, one teaspoonful of pearlash;
spice to your taste. Bake till it turns easily in the pans. I should
think about half an hour.   1486.--THE HOUSEWIFE'S CHRISTMAS CAKE. 
 Take two pounds of pounded sugar-candy, two pounds of flour,

two pounds of butter, thirty-six eggs, four pounds of
currants, a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, half a pound of
almonds blanch ed and chopped, half a pound of citron, a pound of
candied orange-peel, the same of candied lemon-peel, a large
nutmeg pounded, half an ounce of powdered all spice, half an
ounce of powdered mace, ginger, cinnamon, and
coriander, and half a pint of brandy. 
 All the ingredients should be well dried, the white of the eggs well
beaten up separately from the yolks, the butter stirred and
beaten almost to a cream; then add the rest gradually, taking care they
are well beaten and mixed. Have ready a large tin, well lined with
butter ed paper, pour in the cake, and bake in a slow oven for at
least four hours. Smaller proportions may be adopted. 
 1487.--CORNSTARCH CAKE. 
 Half a pound of sugar, four ounces of butter, five
eggs, one teaspoonful cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of
soda, half a pound of cornstarch. half a gill of sweet
milk.   1488.--SHORT CAKE. 
 Three pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pound of
lard, a teaspoon ful of soda, two of cream of tartar; mix
with cold milk. 
 For Strawberry Cake, open these when first baked, take out some of
the crumb, and fill the inside with ripe strawberries, sugared; close
and bake the cakes five minutes longer.   1489.--SUGAR CAKE. 
 Three pints of flour, a table-spoonful of butter, half a pound
of sugar, one egg, half a teaspoonful of soda a tea
spoonful of cream of tartar, milk enough to make a dough, roll it
thin and cut in squares.   1490.--RAILROAD CAKE. 
 A pint of flour, three eggs, a teaspoon ful of cream of
tartar, half a teaspoon ful of soda, a table-spoonful of
butter, a teaspoonful of sugar; bake the batter in a square pan
twenty minutes.    1491.--JELLY CAKE. 
 Bake sponge cake or cup cake in cir cular pans, half an inch thick; when
cold, put pulp of fruit or marmalade be tween them; six or eight
layers of each.   1492.--LADY CAKE. 
 One pound of flour, one of loaf sugar, half one of
butter, the whites of twelve eggs, almonds pounded,
rose-water.   1493.--CHOCOLATE CAKE. 
 Grate chocolate; add whites of six eggs and loaf sugar;
drop it on buttered paper, and bake as macaroons. 
 1494.--NOURMAHAL CAKE. 
 Cut four slices of sponge cake about an inch thick and of an oval shape, but
each slice smaller than the others. Spread a thick layer of apricot jam
upon the first and largest slice, and then lay the next sized slice upon it;
spread the second slice with apple marmalade, and cover with the third
size, which is to be spread in like manner with strawberry jam, and
covered with the smallest size. Press the top lightly with the hand, and with a
sharp knife cut away the central part, so as to leave a wall about two inches
and a half thick, which is to be trimmed outside. Mash up the part re moved
from the centre, with equal parts of white wine and brandy,
sufficient to flavor, and stir in some thick custard, then pour into the center
of the cake. Whip the whites of two eggs into a stiff froth, pour
over the whole, heaping it well up in the centre, and shake sifted sugar
thickly on, then place in a quick oven until the frosting is set. A few pieces
of strawberry jam or any other preserve placed round the bottom
of the dish, gives a finish to the whole.   1495.--ICING FOR CAKES. 
 Beat the whites of four eggs to a solid froth, add gradually
three-quarters of a pound of refined sugar pounded and sift ed; mix in
the juice of half a lemon; beat it till very light and
white. The cake should be cold. Place it before the fire, pour over it
the icing, and smooth over the top and sides with a knife. It might be set to
dry at the mouth of a cool oven.   1496.--LEMON CAKES. 
 Rub half a pound of butter into one pound of flour and a pound
of powdered lump sugar, the rind and juice of one
lemon, three eggs, leaving out the whites unless the
butter be very hard. Mix all together, and drop on tins in small
cakes.   1497.--CINNAMON BISCUITS. 
 Half a pound of dry flour, one pound of lump sugar, finely
sifted; one pound of butter, powdered cinnamon to judg ment. The
whole to be mixed with a glass of brandy, or rum, then rolled
very thin, and baked in a quick oven.   1498.--DIET BREAD. 
 To half a pound of sifted sugar put four eggs; beat them
together for an hour; then add a quarter of a pound of flour dried and
sifted, with the juice of half a lemon and the grated rind of
a whole one. Bake it in a slow oven.   1499.--CURRANT CAKE. 
 Beat a pound of fresh butter to a cream; take one pound and a
quarter of sugar, and one and a quarter pounds of currants washed
and picked, and beat up the whites and yolks of eight eggs; put
in the sugar by degrees, then a pound of flour and
currants; add a gill of brandy, some candied orange and
citron; beat the mixture till very light, and bake it in a pan. 
 1500.--SEED CAKES.   Beat one pound of butter to a cream,  adding, gradually, a quarter of a pound of sifted
sugar, beating both together. Have ready the yolks of eighteen
eggs, and the whites of ten, beaten separately; mix in the
whites first and then the yolks, and beat the whole for ten min
utes; add two grated nutmegs, one pound and a half of flour, and
mix them very gradually with the other ingredients. When the oven is ready,
beat in three ounces of picked carraway-seed. To two pounds of
flour add two ounces of butter rubbed in, half a pound of
sugar, one ounce of carraway-seed, half an ounce of ground
coriander-seed, half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and a
table-spoonful of arrowroot; mix the whole well together, and make a
stiff paste with warm milk; cut into thin cakes, and prick over
with a fork; bake slowly.   1501.--PITCAITHLY BANNOCK. 
 Dry before the fire one pound fine flour; then melt half a pound of
butter; then mix with the flour two ounces of almonds 
 thinly sliced ; two ounces of orange peel, two
ounces of 
 sugared  carra ways, two ounces pounded sugar,
then pour on these ingredients the melted butter; knead all together
well; put the bannock in a slow oven, and bake it an hour.   1502.--TO MAKE
BANBURY CAKES. 
 Roll out the paste about half an inch thick, and cut it into pieces,
then roll again till each piece becomes twice the size; put some Banbury
meat in the middle of one side, fold the other over it, and pinch it up
into a somewhat oval shape, flatten it with your hand at the top, letting the
seam be quite at the bot tom, rub the tops over with the white of an egg
laid on with a brush, and dust loaf-sugar over them. Bake in a moderate
oven. The meat for this cake is made thus:--beat up a quarter of a pound
of butter until it becomes in the state of cream, then mix with
it half a pound of candied orange and lemon-peel cut fine, one
pound of currants, a quarter of an ounce of ground cinnamon, and
a quarter of an ounce of allspice; mix all well together, and keep in a
jar, till wanted for use.   1503.--PETS DE NONNE. 
 Put water or cream in a stewpan with sugar, a little
salt, and flavoring of orange-flower water; when near boiling
shake flour in with one hand, and stir with the other, till the
paste is thin and well done; take it off the fire, and break an
egg in; turn and mix, adding a second egg; add eggs till
the paste is thick and soft, stirring and beating it. Have butter
boiling hot in a frying pan, drop in the paste by spoonfuls, let each be
the size of a walnut, take them out, and keep them hot till all are
done; sift sugar over them, or serve sweet sauce of wine,
butter, sugar, and grated nutmeg. 
 1504.--BISCUITS. 
 Those of the common sort are made in various ways. For a large quantity beat
up eight eggs during nearly half an hour, then put in one pound of
white powdered sugar, with the grated peel of a lemon, and whisk
that again for the same time, or until it appears well mixed; afterwhich make
it into a batter with one pound of flour, and a little
rose-water. 
 Bake the dough in tins, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a quarter of
a pound of butter; rub all together; wet it with one egg beaten
up in half a teacupful of milk, and roll it out thin. 
 
 Or :--One pound of flour, half a pound of
loaf-sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter; rub all together;
wet it with one egg beaten up in half a teacupful of milk, and
roll it out thin.   1505.--GOLD AND SILVER CAKE. 
 Is made by using the whites of the eggs 
for the latter, and the yolks for the first. The other proportions like
pound cake.   1506.--FRANGIPANE 
 Is a French paste, made with two or three eggs put into a
saucepan with one table-spoonful of flour, moistened with a little
milk, and placed on the fire for about ten minutes; taking care to stir
the materials continually, to prevent them from sticking to the pan. The
substance may either be used as a paste for tartlets, or eaten as cakes,
if made with sugar and macaroons.   1507.--LA GALETTE 
 Is in great favor among the Parisians, who usually eat it with
sweetmeats, but vary it in point of richness by the greater or less
quantity of cream and butter employed in making it up. It is thus
made:-- 
 Take one pound each of butter and flour, a little salt,
and two eggs; knead the whole together into a paste, roll it to
not more than an inch in thickness, and make it the size of a dessert-plate.
Then put it into the oven for a quarter of an hour; take it out; beat up two
eggs with a little cream and some salt; pour it over the
cake, and return it to the oven to bake for another quarter of an hour 5 or, if
you please, ornament the back with candied citron.   1508.--ISLE OF
WIGHT CRACKNELS. 
 Mix with a quart of flour half a nut meg grated, the yolks
of four eggs beaten, with four spoonfuls of rose-water, into a stiff
paste, with cold water; then roll in one pound of butter,
and make them into a cracknel shape; put them into a kettle of boiling
water, and boil them till they swim; then take them out and put them into
cold water; when hardened, lay them out to dry, and bake them on tin
plates.   1509.--CRACKNELS. 
 Half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, a quarter of a
pound of butter, two table-spoonfuls of rose-water, a little
salt and rice, and eggs well beaten. Mix together twenty
minutes; roll and cut into shapes. Rub a baking sheet with butter, and
when baked, wash them with white of egg.   1510.--FRENCH BREAD. 
 Commence as for common bread, but use milk instead of
water. When it is light, add two quarts warm milk, salt,
half a pound of butter, and one ounce sifted loaf sugar; knead
well and let it rise again. Make it into rolls; put them in a warm place half
an hour, then bake in a quick oven.   1611.--KRINGLES. 
 Beat well the yolks of eight and whites of two eggs, and mix
with four ounces of butter just warmed, and with this knead one pound of
flour and four ounces of sugar to a paste. Roll into thick
biscuits; prick them, and bake on tin plates. 
 
  GINGERBREAD. 
 This is amongst the most ancient species of cake known throughout England
and the north of Europe. It is the delight of children; in Holland it is the
common accompaniment of the "schnaps," and in Ghent there are shops famous for
it. The following are selected from amongst the numerous ways of making it in
this country.   1512.--SOFT GINGERBREAD (from a Lady of New York). 
 Three cups molasses, one of butter, one of milk, ginger, a table-spoonful of
saleratus, and flour enough to make it the stiffness of pound cake. 
 
 Another :--Half a pound of butter, a  quart of molasses, eight eggs, four table-spoonfuls sifted
ginger, two teaspoonfuls saleratus, allspice, and flour enough to make it stiff
as pound cake.   1513.--HARD GINGERBREAD. 
 Rub half a pound of butter into one pound of flour; then rub in half a pound
of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of ginger, and a spoonful of rose-water; work it
well; roll out, and bake in flat pans in a moderate oven. It will take about
half an hour to bake. This gingerbread will keep good some time. 
 1514.--GINGERBREAD-NUTS. 
 Mix half a pound of flour, the same quantity of butter and of brown sugar,
with three ounces of ginger, a teaspoon ful of carbonate of soda rubbed in the
flour, with as much molasses as will make it into a paste. Roll it out thin,
and bake it for about twenty minutes in a slow oven. 
 
  1515.--PASSOVER CAKES. 
 Make a stiff paste with biscuit-powder, milk, and water; add a little
butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar. Cut into pieces, mould
with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven: they should not be too thin. 
 1516.--SCOTCH SHORT-BREAD. 
 To four pounds of flour take two of butter, half a pound of moist sugar,
quarter of a pound of citron, and the same of almonds, the latter blanched, and
all cut small. Mix the sugar and fruit well with the flour, then work it up
with the butter, cold, till it is smooth and compact, but it will take a long
time; divide into four or more pieces, and roll out each piece into an oblong
cake, having previously floured the table well. Prick the top with a steel
fork, strew some orange and citron cut thin, and some large caraway-comfits,
press them in with the roller, then pinch round the edges, put the cakes in
floured tins; bake for twenty minutes. If the cake rise after the pressing of
the finger, it is sufficiently done. 
 
 Or: --One pound each of butter and sifted sugar, two
pounds of flour, eight ounces of sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds, a
small piece of cinnamon, all pounded, and a glass of brandy. Soften the butter
before the fire, then rub in the flour, and make it into a paste; roll it out
half an inch thick, and bake it on a tin in a slow oven, as it should be of a
pale color.   1517.--POTATO CHEESECAKES. 
 Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four of lemon-peel, beat the latter in a
marble mortar with a quarter of a pound of sugar, then add the same quantity of
butter, melted in a little cream, and the potatoes beaten: mix well, and let it
stand to cool; put crust in patty-pans, rather more than half fill them, sift
some sugar over, and bake half an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 Tipsy Cake .--Put a sponge-cake into a deep glass
dish, pour round it a glass of brandy and some raisin-wine, and let it soak it
up; then strew sifted sugar over it, pour a thick custard into the dish, and
ornament the top with blanch ed almonds split and put thick. 
 1518.--DOUGHNUTS. 
 Set a sponge with a pound of flour, milk and good yeast; rub nearly half a
pound of butter into another pound of flour, and add half a pound of sugar,
with grated nutmeg and spice, and mix with it three beaten eggs; mix it with
the light sponge, and more milk if neces sary, and set it to rise. When it is
per fectly light, roll out the dough on a pasteboard, cut it into slips, double
and  twist them up, and fry them in boiling
lard. 
 
 For Crullers --Allow to the flour more butter and
sugar, and six eggs, without yeast, and fry as before, making smaller
cakes.   1519.--BOSTON CREAM CAKES. 
 Take half a pint of cream from a quart of milk, and boil it with vanilla and
cinnamon; strain and mix it with the rest of the milk; when cold, add the yolks
of twelve eggs and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar, and bake the custard in
a bain-marie; have ready a batter made of half a pound of flour and the same of
butter, in a pint of milk, with eight eggs, and bake it in buttered deep
patty-pans, not scolloped; when browned, open a slit in the side of each while
hot, and put in with a spoon as much of the custard as it will hold; close the
slit smoothly, and set the cakes away.   1520.--SPANISH PUFFS. 
 Boil three-quarters of a pint of milk with one ounce of butter, six ounces
of flour, mixed well in the hot milk--flavor with vanilla. Drop about the size
of a walnut, and lightly bake. When done, open gently at the side and fill with
preserve.   1521--ALMACK. 
 Plums, pears, and apples, each two pounds; pare, core, and stew
together--rub through a sieve. Add half a pound of moist sugar; boil until it
is quite stiff; spread on dishes to dry. When set, cut in squares and put by
for use.   1522.--KISSES. 
 Beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. Then beat in, gradually,
a pound of finely-powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. Add eight drops of
the essence of lemon, and beat the whole very hard. 
 Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bot tom of a square tin pan. Drop on it, at
equal distance, small teaspoonfuls of stiff currant jelly. Put a little of the
beaten egg and sugar at first, under the currant jelly. With a large spoon,
pile some of the beaten white of egg and sugar, on each lump of jelly, so as to
cover it en tirely. Drop on the mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make
the kisses of a round, smooth shape. 
 Set them in a cool oven, and as soon as they are colored, they are done.
Then take them out, and place the two bot toms together. Lay them lightly on a
sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two bottoms stick fast together so
as to form one ball or oval.   1523.--MACAROONS. 
 Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen,
then put them into a mortar with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well
together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve; put it again into a mortar,
with the whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the
white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about
eight eggs and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances
apart, upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some
strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a
yellowish brown color; they are done when set quite firm through. 
 1524.--RATAFIAS. 
 Ratafias are made similar to the above, but deducting two ounces of sweet,
and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller
cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold, they may
be taken off the paper with the greatest ease.  
 These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course
dishes.   1525.--RICE CAKES. 
 Take eight yolks and four whites of eggs, and beat to a foam; add six ounces
of powdered sugar, and the peel of one lemon grated; then stir in half a pound
of ground rice, and beat all together for half an hour. Put it into a buttered
tin, and bake twenty minutes. This cake is recommended as very easy of di
gestion. The foregoing cakes are made without butter, and therefore are not apt
to prove injurious.   1526.--BOLA D' AMOUR-LOVE CAKES. 
 Take the yolks of eggs, as many as are required for the dish (about twelve),
and beat them up in a pan with an equal weight of sugar, the same as sponge
cake, using any kind of liquor or essence for flavoring. "When the mixture is
beaten up light and thick, have ready some clarified butter in a stewpan, made
hot enough for frying. Pour the mix ture into a funnel having a small bore or
pipe, and let it run into the hot butter, turning the hand while it is running,
so that it may be formed into threads all over the surface of the pan. In about
two minutes it will be done, when it should be taken out with a skimmer, and be
placed on a dish for serving, garnish ing it with any kind of preserve, and
serve cold. 
 Another way is, to beat up the eggs with some liquor, and run it into some
boiling syrup at the 
 blow .   1527.--EXCELLENT CHEESECAKES, KNOWN AT
RICHMOND AS "MAIDS OF HONOR."   Make some milk lukewarm then put a spoonful of
rennet, stir it well through a cheese-cloth to get rid of the whey; then to
half a pound of curd put six ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, and sugar
and nutmeg to the taste. Mix all the ingredients well, line pattypans with a
puff paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. The
cheesecakes may be flavored with lemon for a variety.   1528.--CHEESECAKES. 
 Take the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of currants, twelve ounces of
sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinna mon, the same quantity of nutmeg, and the
peel of a lemon chopped to a paste; the yolks of eight and the whites of six
eggs, a pint of scalded cream and a pint of brandy; mix them all together, put
a light thin puff-paste into your pattypans and half fill them. 
 1529.--SOYER'S QUEEN VICTORIA'S CAKE. 
 To three-quarters of a pound of flour, add half an ounce of yeast, mixed
with warm water until forming a stiff paste, and place it in a stewpan, and let
it stand by the fire or oven until well risen, during which time the butter
must be well worked until soft, adding a quarter of a pound of flour more and
five eggs gradually, and beat them well together; when done, if the leaven is
well risen, add to it one and a half pounds of raisins, with a little salt and
sugar; let it stand in the mould for a short time, and bake it in a slow
oven.   1530.--ELETHERIAN PINE APPLE CAKE. 
 Take three-quarters of a pound of pine apple, not over ripe, peel it; place
half a pound of white sugar in a pan, with half pint of water, boil till a
thick syrup; cut the pine in small dice of a quarter of an inch, and pour the
syrup over; and, when nearly cold, add to it the dough, which has previously
been mixed with three-quarters of a pound of butter and two eggs; let it rise
in a hoop as above, and bake in the same way: a glass of rum may be
added.    1531.--BABA. 
 Take three pounds of flour, one-quarter of which set apart and mix into
dough with a gill of good yeast and a little warm water; cover it close in a
stew-pan and set it by the fire to rise; when you see the dough rise and nearly
ready, form the other parts of the flour in a circle on the table, in which put
half an ounce of salt, one ounce of sugar, a half pound of butter and twelve
eggs and a table-spoon of saffron; mix the butter and eggs well together before
you put it to the flour; when it is all mixed spread it out and put the dough
to it and knead it well. "When the yeast is nearly mixed in, add two pounds of
raisins stoned, a few at a time, have ready two moulds buttered, and put three
parts full of dough and set in a warm place to rise very gently; when raised to
the top of the mould bake in a hot oven; a brick oven is best. 
 1532.--CHEESECAKES, APPLE. 
 Take twelve apples, pare, core, and boil in sufficient water to wash
them; beat them very smooth; add six yolks of eggs, the juice of two
lemons, some grated lemon peel, half a pound of fresh
butter, beaten to a cream, and sweetened with powdered
sugar; beat in with the apples, bake in a puff crust, and serve
open.   1533.--CHEESECAKES, ALMOND. 
 Take four ounces of blanched almonds, mixed with a few bitter, beat
them with a spoonful of water, add four ounces of powdered sugar,
a spoonful of cream, and the whites of two eggs well beaten; mix
them quickly, put into small pattypans, and bake for twenty minutes in a mod
erately warm oven.   1534.--CHEESECAKES, BREAD 
 Take a French roll, slice it very thin, pour over it some boiling
cream, allow it to cool and then add six or eight eggs, half a
pound of butter melted, a spoonful of brandy, half a pound of
currants, some nutmeg, and a little sugar; put them in
puff-paste, the same as other cheesecakes.   1535.--CHEESECAKES,
CITRON. 
 Take a pint of cream, boil it, and when cold mix it with two
eggs well beaten; then boil them together, until they be come a curd.
Put in a few blanched almonds beaten in a mortar with a little
orange-flower water, and some Naples biscuits and green
citron chopped very small. Sweeten, and bake in tins. 
 1536.--CHEESECAKES, LEMON. 
 Take four ounces of sifted lump sugar, and the same quantity of
butter; melt them slowly, add the yolks of two and the white
of one egg, a sponge cake, some blanched almonds, the rind of
three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one lemon and a
half, and three spoonfuls of brandy; mix all well together, then make a
paste with eight ounces of flour, and six ounces of
butter, mixing four ounces of it with the flour first, then wet
it with six spoonfuls of water, and roll in the remainder of the
butter; put the ingre dients to this paste, and bake it. 
 
 
  CUSTARDS, CREAMS,
JELLIES, &c. 
 Custard is always eaten cold, and either poured over fruit tarts, or served
up separately in custard-cups, in each of which a macaroon steeped in wine, and
laid at the bottom, will be found a good addition. 
 The flavoring may likewise be altered, according to taste, by using a
different kind of essence, the name of which it 
then acquires; as of lemon, orange, marashino vanilla, &c. It is almost
needless to say that cream or a portion of it will make it richer than mere
milk. 
 The 
 French mode  of making it is, to measure the number
of cups which are to be filled, and use nearly that quantity of milk or cream,
simmering it upon the fire, until beginning to boil, with lemon-peel,
bay-leaves, or almonds, then adding about half an ounce of powdered sugar to
each cup; then take the yolk of an egg to each small cup, beat them up with the
milk, fill the cups, place in a 
 bain-marie  or vase of boiling water until the
custard become firm. 
 
 For boiled custard :--Boil the milk with the
flavoring till thick enough; pour it boiling hot over beaten yolks of eggs,
eight to a quart; sweeten to taste, stir till cold and smooth. 
 1537.--ARROWROOT CUSTARD. 
 One pint of milk, one table-spoonful of arrowroot, one of sugar, boil the
milk with a stick of cinnamon in it, wet the arrowroot with a little cold milk,
add to it one egg well beaten, add the sugar, stir the whole into the boiling
milk, flavor it with vanilla, wine, or rose when nearly cold. 
 You may flavor custards with lemon-peel, vanilla, or any thing you choose,
and make them as rich as you like.   1538.--BLANC MANGE. 
 Wet one ounce or four sheets of Cooper's Isinglass in cold water, boil one
quart of milk with a stick of cinna mon in it, drain the isinglass out of the
water and stir it into the milk; when dis solved, strain it through a flannel
bag, sweeten it, and when cold pour it into the moulds.   1539.--CUSTARD
CREAM OF CHOCOLATE. 
 Scrape one-quarter of a pound of the best chocolate; pour on it a teacupful
of boiling water, and let it stand by the fire till it has dissolved. Beat
eight eggs very light, omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into a
quart of cream or rich milk, alternately with the melted chocolate and three
table-spoon fuls of powdered white sugar. Put the mixture into cups and bake it
ten min utes. Send them to table cold, with whipped white of egg heaped on the
top of each custard.   1540.--COFFEE CUSTARD. 
 This is made by putting a quart of milk on the fire, with about six ounces
of white sugar. In another vessel beat up the yolks of ten eggs, and pour the
milk gradually upon them. Roast your coffee (three or four ounces) till it is
of a very light brown color, and gives out all its flavor; break it in a
mortar, slight ly, and add it, while hot, to your hot custard. Strain through a
jelly-bag, pour the cream into cups, and put them to cool. Every thing depends
on the coffee being used whilst hot, so as to catch the aroma which goes off as
it cools. 
 
 Or: --Pour half a pint of cold water on the same
quantity of fresh ground coffee in a French coffee-pot, press it down and put
on the lid. Stop the mouth of the spout, and when the water has filtered down,
pour it off, and return it to the top to filter a second, time. Have a custard
made with eight eggs to a pint of milk, sweetened to taste. Stir in the coffee,
put it in custard cups, and bake in a pan with water half to their tops. Send
cold to table.   1541.--CHAMPAGNE CREAM 
 Is made by beating up the yolks of six eggs with as much powdered sugar as
will make it quite stiff--so much so as nearly to make the spoon stand in it  Then pour on it very gradually--stirring it all the
time--a bottle of sparkling champagne: grate on it a little nutmeg, and serve
it to the ladies, who seldom refuse a second glass. 
 A bottle of good cider or perry will be a tolerable substitute. 
 1542.--LECHE CREMA. 
 Beat up three eggs, leaving out two of the whites, and add to to them
gradually one pint and a half of milk; then mix very carefully four
table-spoonfuls of fine wheat-flour, and two ounces of finely powdered
loaf-sugar, with grated lemon-peel to give a flavor. Boil these ingredients
over a slow fire, stirring constant ly to prevent burning, until the flour is
quite dissolved. Prepare a shallow dish with some ratafia cakes at the bottom,
and when the "crema" is sufficiently boiled, pour it through a sieve upon the
cakes. *    1543.--ITALIAN CREAM. 
 Whip together for nearly an hour a quart of very thick scalded cream, a
quart of raw cream, the grated rind of four lemons and the strained juice, with
ten ounces of white powdered sugar: then add half a pint of sweet wine, and
continue to whisk it until it becomes quite solid. Lay a piece of muslin in a
sieve, and lay the cream upon it with a spoon. In twenty hours turn it
carefully out, but mind that it does not break Garnish it with fruit-jelly or
with flowers. 
  Another. --Whip up three-quarters of a pint of very
rich cream to a strong froth, with some finely scraped lemon-peel, a squeze of
the juice, half a glass   *Some finely powdered cinnamon should be
dusted pretty thickly over it. This delicious dish is always served up cold.
The receipt was obtained from the nuns of Santa Clara convent at Palmas in the
island of Grand Canary.   of sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant, but not
too sweet; lay it on a sieve or in a form, and next day put it on a dish, and
ornament it with very light puff-paste biscuits, made in tin shapes the length
of a finger, and about two thick, over which sugar may be strewed, or a little
glazed with isinglass. Or you may use macaroons to line the edges of the
dish.   1544.--CLOUTED CREAM. 
 Strain the milk as soon as it comes from the cow into wide pans, holding
about six quarts each, so as to be about three inches deep, and let it remain
for twenty-four hours; then gently place the pan upon a hot plate or slow
charcoal fire, which must heat it very gently, for if it boils it is spoilt; as
soon as the cream forms a ring in the middle, re move a little with the finger,
and if a few bubbles rise in the place where you do so, it is done, which will
be in half to three quarters of an hour; re move it from the fire, and let it
remain twenty-four hours; then skim it, and throw a little sugar on the
top.   1545.--CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Furnished for this work by Mr. Taylor,
Proprietor of Taylor's splendid Establishment, Broadway, New York.) 
 Dissolve one ounce of isinglass in half a pint of milk, and add to it when
dis solved the yolks of six eggs, and half a pound of white powdered sugar. 
 Whip up a quart of sweet cream in one vessel, and the whites of six eggs in
an other. 
 When the isinglass, &c., is nearly cold, stir it gradually into the

cream. Then add the whites and stir up the whole together. Pour it in a mould,
and set it on the ice for an hour.   1546.--CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Furnished by a
Lady of New York.) 
 Make a custard of four eggs, one pint of  milk,
and five table-spoonfuls of sugar; boil a vanilla bean with the milk. Dis solve
half an ounce of isinglass in a tea-cupful of water, put a pint of cream in a
tin pan, stand it over ice, and when the isinglass is cold, mix it with the
cream and beat it to a thick froth; pour the cooled custard in and beat it all
well. Place lady-fingers or spongecake inside the form, pour in the mixture,
and leave it on the ice to thicken.   1547.--STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. 
 Line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice
to the rim, and dipping the straw berries in calf's-foot jelly, first covering
the bottom with them cut in halves, the cutside downwards, afterwards building
them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to
ad here; when finished fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte
russe, and when ready to serve clip the mould in warm water, and turn it out
upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when you pour it in, or it
would run between the strawberries, and produce a bad effect. 
 
 Slip. --Warm two quarts or more of new milk, then put
in it a piece of ren net that has been kept in wine, or suffi cient of the
liquor to curdle it. When a firm curd is formed, set it in a cool place. Serve
with grated nutmeg over it, and with cream.   1548.--EASY AND EXCELLENT
RECEIPT FOR JELLY. (By a Lady of New York.) 
 Seven bars isinglass dissolved in two quarts water. When cold, add the juice
and rind of six lemons--the whites and shells of six eggs, a pint and a half of
wine, one and a quarter pounds sugar; stir all well, boil it five minutes, and
strain through a jelly-cloth.   1549.--A GERMAN TRIFLE. 
 Put a pint of strawberries or any other fresh fruit in the bottom of a glass
dish. Sugar the fruit, put over it a layer of macaroons; and pour over it a cus
tard, made with a quart of fresh milk and the yolks of eight eggs beaten,
sweetened to taste, and scalding hot When cold place on the top the whites of
the eggs beaten to a froth with a little sugar, or cream whipped to a froth.
The egg may be made ornamental by beating currant jelly with part of it, and
putting it in alternate hills of white and pink.   1550.--GOOSEBERRY OR APPLE
TRIFLE. 
 Scald a sufficient quantity of fruit, and pulp it through a sieve, add sugar
agree able to your taste, make a thick layer of this at the bottom of your
dish; mix a pint of milk, a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs, scald it
over the fire, observing to stir it; add a small quantity of sugar, and let it
get cold. Then lay it over the apples or gooseberries with a spoon, and put on
the whole a whip made the day before. 
 If you use apples, add the rind of a lemon grated.   1551.--SYLLABUB. 
 Mix a quart of cream with half a pint of sherry wine, and sweeten it to
taste, adding essence or grated rind of lemon, and, if desired, the
juice of the fruit. Churn or beat the mixture to a thick froth,
which skim off and put in a glass bowl, over slices of sponge cake. 
 1552.--A FLOATING ISLAND. 
 Take a pint of thick cream, sweeten with fine sugar, grate in
the peel of one lemon, and add a gill of sweet white wine;
whisk it well till you have raised a good froth; then pour a pint of thick
cream into a china dish, take a sponge cake, slice it thin, and lay it
over the  cream as lightly as possible;
then a layer of clear calves' feet jelly, or currant
jelly; then whip up your cream, and lay on the froth as high
as you can, and what remains pour into the bottom of the dish. Garnish the rim
with sweetmeats. 
 
 Or: --Beat the whites of twelve eggs with a
little sugar and currant jelly--a teaspoonful to each egg;
whisk it light and lay it on a custard made with the yolks of the eggs
and three pints milk.   1553.--WAGNER'S ICE CREAMS. (These re ceipts
are furnished by Mr. Wagner of New York, expressly for this work.) 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream. --One quart
cream, eight ounces sugar, crushed, half a va nilla bean.
Boil half the cream with the sugar and bean, then add the
rest of the cream, and cool and strain it. 
 
 Lemon Ice Cream. --One quart cream,
eight ounces sugar, one lemon. Grate the lemon-rind in the
sugar; this ex tracts the oil 5 then add the raw cream and
strain and freeze very soon. Lemon cream sours and becomes rancid more
quickly than any other. 
 
 Strawberry Ice Cream. --One quart
cream, nine ounces sugar, quarter of a pound fresh berries
or more if desired. Wash the berries in the sugar, add the
cream, and strain and freeze as soon as possible to prevent
curdling.    Johnston's Freezer.  An illustration of a wooden keg with a churn on top with two undetermined devices on either side of it.   
 The freezing with the ordinary freezer and a strong arm is preferable to all
the machines ever invented. Mr. Wagner has at some expense tried the labor-saving machines, but could not bring up the cream to his standard, and has
now aban doned them for his original mode of manufacture. 
 A great variety of ice creams may be made with different kinds of
fruit in the same manner. 
 
 Mock Cream  may be made by mixing half a
table-spoonful of flour with a pint of new milk, letting it
simmer five minutes to take off the rawness of the flour; beat up the
yolk of an egg, stir it into the milk while boiling and run it
through a fine sieve.    Patent Ice Breaker.  An illustration of a boy standing in front of machine.   
 Rennet, to turn milk, may be pre pared thus: Take out the stomach of
a newly killed calf, cover it inside and out side with salt,
after it is cleared of the curd. Drain it a few hours, then sew it up with two
handfuls of salt in it, or stretch it on a stick well salted; or keep it
in the salt and soak a bit of it when wanted, in fresh water. 
 1554.--BISCUIT GLACE. 
 Rub some pieces of loaf-sugar on the rind of four
lemons, powder it, and add half a pound more, moistened with the
lemon-juice; mix it with a quart of cream, and add six beaten
eggs. Grate some stale Naples biscuit or sponge cakes, and stir
them in till a thick smooth batter is formed. Scald it in a  porcelain stewpan; put it in a freezer and freeze it. 
 1555.--ALMOND CREAM ICE. 
 Take six ounces of bitter almonds, (sweet ones will not do,) blanch
them, and pound them in a mortar, adding by degrees, a little
rose-water. Boil them gently in a pint of cream till you find
that it is highly flavored with them. Then pour the cream into a bowl,
stir in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, cover it, and set it away
to cool gradu ally. "When it is cold, strain it, and then stir it gradually and
hard into three pints of cream. Put it into the freezer, and
proceed as directed. Freeze it twice. It will be found very fine. 
 Send round always with ice cream, sponge cake: afterwards wine
and cor dials, or liquors, as they are now gene rally called. 
 1556.--WATER ICES. 
 Are made with the juice of lemon, currant, or
raspberry, or any other sort of fruit, being gained by squeezing,
sweetened, and mixed with water. Rub some fine sugar on lemon
or orange, to give the color and flavor, then squeeze the juice of
either on its peel; add water and sugar to make a fine sherbet,
and strain it before it be put into the icepot. If orange, the greater
proportion should be of the juice.   1557.--DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. 
 Turn warm milk with rennet; add scalded cream, sugar,
and cinnamon, hang to drain in a net. 
 
 Country Syllabub  is made by milking from the
cow into a bowl, with wine, sugar, and flavoring. 
 1558.--RICE FLUMMERY. 
 Boil with a pint of new milk a bit of lemon-peel and
cinnamon; mix with a little cold milk as much rice-flour
as will make the whole of a good consist ence; sweeten, and add a spoonful of
peach-water or a bitter almond beaten; boil it, taking care it
does not burn; pour it into a shape or pint basin, taking out the spice.
When cold, turn the flum mery into a dish, and serve with cream,
milk, or custard, round. 
 As to the chemical 
 compounds,  adver tised for the making of
jellies, custards, and blanc mange, they are worthless in comparison
with the animal substance of meat, eggs, and milk, of
which such deli cacies ought to be formed; they are not cheaper nor so
nutritive, neither do we know of what they are composed. 
 1559.--CALF'S-FOOT JELLY. 
 It is a complaint amongst even experi enced housekeepers that they cannot
feel a certainty of having jelly clear; but by 
 strictly  attending to the following method for
making calf's-foot jelly, they can scarcely fail to have it
beautifully bright. 
 Feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the people who sell
them that they are less nutritious: they should be procured from the butcher
and only scalded to take off the hair. The liquor will require greater care in
removing the fat; but the jelly will be far stronger. A little
isinglass, half an ounce to a quart of stock, may be used to
secure the firmness, particularly in summer. In peeling lemons, care
should be taken not to cut below the color, as by so doing a great deal of the
flavor of the essential oil is lost, and the white part gives a
  Felt Jelly Bag.  An illustration of a cylinderical cloth bag one open end and the other with a narrow opening.    
disagreeable flavor. The stock should he measured when set to get cold,
as the exact quantity cannot be measured when it is set. 
 Jelly is equally good made of cow-heels nicely cleaned; they
bear a less price than those of calves, and make a stronger
jelly. 
 
 To make Jelly. --Boil two feet in two
quarts and a pint of water till the feet are broken and the
water half wasted 5 strain it, and the following day take off the
fat, and remove the jelly from the sediment; then put it into a
saucepan, with a laurel-leaf, twenty cori ander-seeds, the peel of
two lemons, sugar to palate, half a pint of sherry, and a
wine-glass of brandy. When the flavor is rich, put to it the
whites of five eggs well beaten, and their shells broken. The
ingredients should be cold when mixed together, to ensure the jelly
being clear. Set the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir the jelly
after it gets hot. Let it boil twenty minutes after it rises to a head;
then pour it through a flannel jelly-bag, first (lipping the bag in hot
water to prevent waste, and squeezing it quite dry. Run the jelly
through and through until clear; then put it into glasses or moulds. 
 The following mode will greatly facili tate the clearing of jelly: 
 When the mixture has boiled twenty minutes, throw in a teacupful of cold
water; let it boil five minutes longer; then take the saucepan off the
fire, cov ered close, and let it stand half an hour; after which it will be so
clear as to need only once running through the bag, and much waste will be
saved. 
 
 Or: --Boil four quarts of water, with three
calf s-feet, or two cow-heels, that have been only
scalded, till half wasted: take the jelly from the fat and
sediment; mix with it the juice of a large orange and twelve
lemons, the peels of three lemons, the whites and shells
of twelve eggs, white sugar to taste, a pint of wine, one
ounce of coriander-seeds, two bay-leaves, a bit of cinnamon, and
six cloves, all bruised, after having previously mixed them cold. The
jelly should boil fif teen minutes without stirring; then clear it
through a flannel bag. While running take a little jelly, and mix with a
teacup ful of water in which a bit of beet-root has been boiled,
and run it through the bag when all the rest is run out; this is to garnish the
other jelly, being cooled on a plate: but this is a matter of choice,
This jelly has a very fine high color and flavor. 
 
 Cheap Calf's-foot Jelly. --Take one box
of Cox's sparkling gelatine and pour on a pint of cold water--let
it stand ten minutes, then add a pint of boiling water--one pint of
wine--half a pound of sugar--the juice and rind of
two lemons--strain it through a napkin into a pitcher, then turn it into
the moulds Boil in the water a stick of cinnamon, and the
lemon-peels.   1560.--GOOSEBERRY-FOOL. 
 Put the fruit into a stone jar, with. white sugar; set the jar
on a stove, or in a saucepan of water over the fire; if the former, a
large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit. When it is
done enough to pulp, press it through a colander; have ready a teacupful
of new milk and the same quantity of raw cream boiled together,
and left to be cold; then sweeten pretty well with fine sugar and mix
the pulp by degrees with it. 
 
 For Orange-fool. --Mix the juice of
three oranges, three eggs well beaten a pint of cream, a
little nutmeg and cinna mon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the whole
over a slow fire, and stir it till it becomes as thick as good melted
butter, but it must not be boiled; then pour it into a dish for eating
cold.  
 
 For Apple-fool. --Stew apples as di
rected for gooseberries, and then peel and pulp them. Prepare the
milk, &c., and mix as before.   1561.--TO MAKE AN ALMOND
POSSET. 
 Grate the crumb of a loaf very fine, pour a pint of boiling milk upon
it; let it stand two or three hours; then beat it exceedingly well; add to it a
quart of good cream, and four ounces of almonds, blanched and
beaten as fine as possible, with rosewater. Mix them all well to gether,
set them over a very slow fire, and boil them a quarter of an hour: then set it
to cool, and beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with your
cream. When it is cold, sweeten it to your taste; then stir it over a
slow fire, till it grows pretty thick, but do not let it boil, or it will
curdle} then pour it into a china bowl. When you send it to table, put in three
macaroons to swim on the top.   1562.--TAYLOR'S PLUM PUDDING
GLACE. (Furnished for this work by Mr. Taylor of New York.) 
 One quarter of a pound each of raisins, currants and
citron, one quarter of a pound of chocolate, all boiled together
in a pint of Madeira wine; mix it when cold with ice cream, so as
to make sufficient for an ordinary sized pudding.   1563.--TO CLARIFY
ISINGLASS. 
 Take two ounces of isinglass, pour on it a pint of spring
water which has been mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white of
egg, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stir them thoroughly
together, and let them heat slowly, taking care the isinglass does not
stick to the bottom of the pan; simmer a few minutes, clear off the scum till
no more appears; strain it through muslin, and set it by for use: it will be
transparent, and .may be warm ed and mixed with the clear juice of any
kind of fruit already sweetened, or with syrup in jellies,
flavored with liqueur. As a portion of the isinglass is taken up by the
white of egg, one quarter to each ounce should be allowed for this. The
finest sort of isinglass, which should be white and without any
smell, does not require to be clarified, excepting for clear jellies;
for all other purposes it is enough to dissolve and skim it, and to pass it
through a strainer. A great variety of excellent jellies may be made
with clarified isinglass and the juice or syrup of almost
any kind of fresh fruit, the color of which is best preserved by mash
ing it lightly and strewing pounded sugar over it, letting it stand
three or four hours for the juice to drain off; pour a little
water over, and use the juice with out boiling.   1564.--FROZEN
PUDDING. (Furnished for this work by Mr. Sneekner, whose splendid Con
fectionery Establishment is in Union Square, New York.) 
 Cut up about half a pound of preserved fruits--such as
peaches, plums, citron, raisins, and
currants--add half a pound of Baker's chocolate, and a pint of
best Madeira wine; simmer on the fire about fifteen minutes, and when
perfectly cold add about one quart of vanilla ice cream. Freeze
it in a two-quart mould, and for the sauce whip half a pint of sweet
cream flavored with vanilla.   1565.--MERINGUES. 
 Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of twelve
eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden
spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or
dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs,
sift powdered sugar-thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then
shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have
wetted, and put them in a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light
and slightly tinged; when the outside becomes quite crisp,  take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and
lifting the papers from them 5 dip your spoon into hot water, and
with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered
sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and pat into the screen to dry; they
may be made several days before they are re quired, if put away in a dry place;
to serve, fill them with whipped cream, flavored either with
vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick
two together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve. Should they happen to
stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush
and water underneath; they will come away easier.   1566.--MERINGUES A
LA CREME. (Furnished by Mr. Delmonico for this work.) 
 Beat to a froth the whites of six eggs, to this add three ounces of
finely powdered sugar, and mix up well. Then lay sheets of paper
upon tin or other plates, place some spoonfuls of the mixture at intervals of
half an inch, and powder them with fine sugar. Cook them at a very
gentle heat, and, when done, place them in a warm place, in order to keep them
dry. You may dress them with whipped cream or jelly, according to
your taste.   1567.--NOUGAT. 
 Out in dice or in fillets a pound of blanched sweet almonds, and mix
with them eight or six bitter almonds. When they are cut equally, dry
them in the oven, but keep them white; take three or four spoonfuls of
superfine pounded sugar, put it over a slow fire in a pre serving pan;
when the sugar is melted without having used any water, throw the
almonds in, but take care that they are quite dry. Stir the sugar
with a clean wooden skewer. If you hear a noise when you throw them into the
sugar it is a sign that they are dry enough. Rub a mould slightly over
inside with oil or butter, and lay some al monds in beds as
thinly as possible; take an oiled lemon to press the almonds with: but be
quick, otherwise the almonds will get cool, and then they cannot be worked
so thin. The nougat requires to be light, to be made to perfection. Some times
you may make the nougat in a mould the form of a vase, sometimes in small
custard-moulds, according to your choice; it is always the same thing, but you
may cut the almonds of different shapes. 
 Sometimes make a pound of almonds into nougat, oil a baking-dish,
and spread it over it, oil the rolling-pin, and flatten the nougat with
it; if it will spread easy, put it in the oven again to make it soft; then cut
it into small long squares, and keep it in a very dry place, to pre vent it
sticking to the fingers. The nougat is in general made too sweet, and it is an
article that belongs to the con fectionery department.   COFFEE,
TEA, AND CHOCOLATE.   1568.--COFFEE. 
 There are several ways of making coffee; and every housewife
generally has her favorite mode. The French make excellent coffee
without the aid of eggs, isinglass, or any foreign article to
settle it. It consists of a sort of tin coffee-pot, with two strainers. You
remove the first strainer, and pour some boiling water into the
coffee-pot through the second strainer. Empty out the water, and put in
a sufficient quantity of coffee for the family over the under strainer
and press it flat with a little tin machine (which comes with the apparatus).
Put in the other strainer, and pour in the hot water. The coffee
will drain through in a few moments.  
  Coffee Canister.  An illustration of a canister with coffee written across the front.   
 Another mode of making Coffee.--Take fresh roasted coffee, allow two
table-spoonfuls for each person, grind it just before making, put it in a basin
and break into it an egg, yolk, white, shell, and all. Mix it up
with the spoon to the consist ence of mortar, put warm, not boiling
water, in the coffee pot; let it boil up and break three times; then
stand a few minutes and it will be as clear as amber, and the egg
will give it a rich taste. 
 Codfish skin, scraped, washed, and dried, and cut in pieces, an inch
square, may be used to settle off, or isinglass. You may add to a pint
of coffee a pint of boiling milk, and heat both together before
serving.    Sugar Box.  An illustration of a canister with a lid.     1569.--COFFEE, TO ROAST. 
 Coffee should never be roasted but when you are going to use it, and
then it should be watched with the greatest care, and made of a gold color;
mind and do not burn it, for a few grains burnt would communicate a bitter
taste to the whole; it is the best way to roast it in a roaster over a
charcoal fire, which turns with the hand, as by that means it will not
be forgotten. 

 PARKER'S PATENT COFFEE-MAKER.    Figure 1.  An illustration of an old fashioned coffee maker.  
 By this machine, the extract of coffee is prepared in a very easy and
expeditious manner. When the extract is made, it may be diluted with
boiling water to suit the palate; or hot milk may be used instead
of water, making  café au lait . 
 Figure 1 represents the external appearance of the apparatus, and figure 2
is section to show its construction and mode of action. 
 a a  is a box of metal to hold the coffee,
having its bottom and top lid perforated with numerous small holes. From the
lower part of the box proceeds a funnel, that reaches nearly to the bottom of
an outside vessel or cylinder of metal, 
 e e,  which is divided into two parts interiorly by a
partition, b b, and on the middle of this partition is fixed a tube, into which
the neck of the funnel is put, and on which the box with the
coffee rests. The exterior vessel is covered with a convex lid, 
 d . The whole is placed on a stand, in which is a
spirit-lamp, 
 f,  having a sliding tube, 
 g,  so arranged that the heat can be increased or
diminished at pleasure.  
 Having taken out the box, with its funnels, it is tilled with coffee,
and boil ing water is poured down the tube in the interior; this will
pass into the di vision at the lower part, ee; then the box with the
coffee is to be replaced, and the lamp lighted. The steam which is
formed forces the water into e e to rise through the tube, and passes
upward through the perforated bottom of the box into the coffee, which
is seen rising as a dark fluid through the perforated lid of a a, and flowing over into the up per division, b b. The passage of the water should be permitted to continue till it becomes pale-colored, and has con sequently extracted all the goodness of the coffee, when the
lamp should be ex tinguished, and the lid put on. The ex tract is then drawn
off by means of the faucet. 
  Figure 2.  An illustration of the internal mechanics of a coffee maker.  
 After making the extract, it is best not to drain off the liquid
remaining within the rim of the cover, but to let it return into the boiler,
which it will do as soon as the lamp is extinguished.--Thus, any sediment will
return with it. 
 The filling of the box is best done by piling up the ground coffee in
the centre, and then striking it off with a knife, as is done with corn in a
bushel-measure. The time for making the extract of coffee, where hot
water is used, should never exceed five minutes. If it takes longer, it can
arise only from the coffee being ground too finely; and this not only in
creases the expenditure of spirits of wine and of time, but likewise
injures the quality of the extract. The remedy is, to grind the
coffee coarser and coarser, until the operation, after the water
in the boiler boils, lasts only three minutes. The extract of coffee
prepared by this apparatus contains all the aroma and other fine qualities of
the coffee.    An illustration of a decorative tea pot and its holder.    TEA. 
 Tastes differ regarding the flavor of various sorts of tea: some
preferring all black; others, all green; and many, a mixture of both in
different quantities; though most persons--when not fearful of their nerves--agree that fine Hyson is the best. A good mixture, in point of   Tea Canister.  An illustration of a canister with a narrow opening and the words tea canister written on the front.    flavor, we know to
be--two-fifths black, two-fifths green, and one-fifth gunpowder: all being, of
course, of superior quality. 
 Presuming all ladies to be intimately acquainted with the mode of making
tea, yet to some, a few hints on the subject may not perhaps be found
objectionable. 
 Boiling water should alone be used. 
 Metal tea-pots in preference to earthenware. They retain heat
better. 
 Silver is better than either.    Water Urn.  An illustration of a ceramic urn with a spigot.   
 A spoonful of tea for each person. Heat the tea-pot first with
some boiling water, then pour that into the tea-cups to warm them; put
in your tea, and pour enough water upon the tea to cover
it; let it stand three or four minutes, then nearly fill the tea-pot
with water; let it stand a few minutes, and pour out. 
 CHOCOLATE, 
 If made thin, is not worth drinking; and that which is commonly sold is a
compound of flour, or some farinaceous substance, and coarse
sugar, with a very moderate quantity of real cocoa, and that of
the most inferior quality, colored with Venetian red and brown ochre. 
 Chocolate forms the common breakfast throughout Spain, and is there
made by merely chipping a portion of the cake into which it is formed from the
cocoa, leaving the chips in water for a whole night to soften. It
may then be slowly warmed, along with either water or milk,
working it all the time with the mill, which is a small movable pole passed
through the lid of a chocolate-pot, and furnished with a headpiece, in
order to mix the chocolate equally, by turning the mill rapidly between
the hands and without intermission, thus to prevent it from becoming clotty;
care, however, should be taken not to let it boil; for, in that case, the
vegetable oil which is contained in the nut will be extracted
from it and appear on the surface. The flavor is better retained by making it
in water than milk. 
 It is always made very thick, so that a small spoon will nearly stand
upright in it, and nothing eaten with it but a rusk, or dry toast: after
which there is usually taken a draught of cold spring water. 
 The usual mode of making it here is, to boil a pint of water and a
pint of milk in the pot, put to it a part of a cake of chocolate
cut into very small slices, mill it off the fire till quite melted, then put it
on a gentle fire till it nearly boils, milling it all the time. Sweeten to
taste.   1570.--COCOA. 
 An excellent breakfast beverage may be made by simply pounding the
nut--which is the substance of chocolate--and boiling it in the
same manner in either water or milk. 
 
 Cocoa Shells or Nibs,  are the thin coverings
of the cocoa kernel, and can only be had at some chocolate
manufac tory, where they can be bought at a very low price, and form a light
food for an invalid, when taken warm. 
 Soak them in water during the whole night, and then boil them in the
same water until it is reduced to half the quantity:  they should boil two hours, and should then be mixed up with
milk.   1571.--CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
 Take one pound and a half of choco late, put it on a pewter plate and put it
in the oven just to warm the chocolate, then put it into a copper
stewpan with three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar; mix it well
over the fire, take it off, and roll it in pieces the size of small marbles,
put them on white paper, and when they are all on, take the sheets of
paper by each corner and lift it up and down, so that the
paper may touch the table each time, and by that means you will see the
drops come quite fat, about the size of a sixpence; put some
sugar nonpareils over them, and cover all that are on the paper,
then shake them off, and you will see all the chocolate drops are
covered with the sugar nonpareils; let them stand till cold and they
will come off well, and then put them in a box prepared.   1572.--TEA
CREAM. 
 Infuse an ounce of the best green tea in half a pint of boiling
milk, simmer it five minutes, then strain it through a tammy, pressing
the leaves well; boil a pint of rich cream, add to it the yolks of
four eggs beaten, and sufficient quan tity of clarified sugar; pour
this whilst hot to the milk, stir them together well, put in as much
clarified isinglass as will set it, and pour the cream into the
mould or glasses; place them on ice; when per fectly cold, turn it out of the
mould or serve in the glasses.   PRESERVES, &c. 
 Preserves should be kept carefully from the air, and in a very dry
place. Unless they have a very small proportion of sugar, a warm one
does not hurt; but when not properly boiled, heat makes them ferment, and damp
causes them to grow mouldy. They should be looked at two or three times in the
first two months, that they may be gently boiled again if not likely to keep.
Paste the edge of the outer paper, as it keeps out the air better
than a string; put writing-paper over the fruit. 
 Dried sweetmeats, cakes, &c., should be kept in tin boxes,
between layers of white paper, in a very dry but not hot room. 
 All fruits for preserving should be gathered in dry weather; but as
this is not always practicable, much incon venience may be obviated by boiling
the fruit for jellies and jams long before the sugar is
added. By so doing, the watery particles will evaporate, and the
preserve will be better flavored, by the sugar not being too long
on the fire. 
 Pans of copper or bell-metal are the proper utensils for preserving
fruit: when used, they must be scoured bright with sand. Tinned pans
turn and destroy the color of the fruit that is put into them. 
 1573.--TO PRESERVE WATERMELON RIND. 
 Pare off the outer skin and cut the rind into shapes: green
them by simmer ing with vine leaves and a little alum, and allow
a pound and a quarter of sugar to each pound. Make the syrup and
clarify it with white of egg, and simmer the melon rind till done
through and trans parent. Boil down the syrup afterwards, and pour it
over the preserves. 
 Chips of pumpkin or muskmelon rind, cut thin, are often made
into preserves,--adding the juice and grated rind of
lemons, which much improves the syrup. 
 
 Citrons  may be preserved in the same manner,
first paring off the outer skin, and cutting them into quarters. Also
green limes.    1574.--APPLES. 
 Weigh equal quantities of good brown sugar and of apples; peel
and core them. Boil the sugar, allowing to every three pounds a pint of
water; skim it well, and boil it pretty thick; then add the
apples, the peel of one or two lemons, and two or three pieces of
white ginger; boil till the apples look clear and yellow. This
preserve will keep for years.   1575.--PINE-APPLES, 
 Take those that are ripe, and perfectly fresh--pare off the rind, and
cut the apples in slices an inch thick. Powder the same weight of
white sugar as you have pine-apples--lay the pine-apples
in a deep dish, and sprinkle part of the powdered sugar between each
layer of apples. Reserve about half of the sugar. Let the
apples remain till the succeeding day---then turn the syrup from
them, and mix it with the reserved sugar, and half a pint of
water, for three or four pounds of pine apple. Boil the
syrup, take it from the fire, and when cool, put in the apples,
simmer them gently till tender, let them remain in a deep dish for several
days; they should be covered up tight, and kept in a cool place. When ever
there is any appearance of fermen tation, turn the syrup from them,
scald it, and turn it back hot upon the pine apples. Keep them in glass
or china jars, covered tight, and in a cool place.   1576.--TAIT
PINE-APPLE. 
 To fourteen pounds of grated pine apple add half an ounce of grated
alum, and mix thoroughly. Boil seven pounds white sugar in as
little water as possible, skimming it until perfectly clear. Pour the
boiling sugar over the fruit, and put it into empty
champagne bottles; stand the bottles in boiling water till the
water begins to cool; then cork and seal them closely. 
 1577.--CRAB-APPLES 
 Make a syrup, allowing the same weight of sugar as
apples. Let it cool, then put in the apples, a few at once, so
that they will not crowd, and break to pieces. Boil them till they begin to
break, then take them out of the kettle. Boil the syrup in the course of
three or four days, and turn it while hot upon the apples. This continue
to do at in tervals of two or three days, till the apples appear to be
thoroughly preserved.   1578.--GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING
SWEETMEATS AND JELLIES. 
 In preparing sugar for sweetmeats, let it be entirely
dissolved before you put it on the fire. If you dissolve it in water,
allow about half a pint of water to a pound of sugar. If you boil
the sugar before you add the fruit to it, it will be improved in
clearness by passing it through a flannel bag. Skim off the brown scum all the
time it is boiling. If sweetmeats are boiled too long, they lose their
flavor and become of a dark color. If boiled too short a time they will not
keep well. You may ascertain when jelly is done, by dropping a small
spoon ful into a glass of water. If it spreads and mixes with the
water, it requires more boiling. If it sinks in a lump to the bottom, it
is sufficiently done. This trial must be made after the jelly is cold.
Raspberry jelly requires more boiling than any other sort. Black
currant jelly less. Keep your sweetmeats in glass jars. 
 1579.--TO PRESERVE QUINCES. 
 Ripe quinces pare and cut in slices an inch thick--take out the cores
carefully, so as to have the slices in the form of a ring. Allow a pound.of
white sugar for each pound--dissolve it in cold water, having a
quart of the latter to a pound of sugar, then put in the sliced
quinces,  and let them soak in it ten or
twelve hours. Put them in a preserving kettle, and put it on a moderate
fire-cover them over, and let the quinces boil gently-- there should be
more than enough syrup to cover the quinces. When a broom
splinter will go through them easily, take them from the fire, and turn them
out. In the course of a week turn the syrup from them, and boil it down,
so that there will be just enough to cover the fruit. When not very
ripe, pare and cut the quinces either in rings or quar ters, take out
the cores, and boil the quinces in fair water, till they begin to
grow tender--take them up, and strain the water in which they are
boiled--put in either brown or white sugar--add a little cold
water. When lukewarm, put in the whites of eggs and clarify it--let
it cool, then put in the quinces, and boil them slowly for half an hour.
Keep them covered over while boiling, if you wish to have them of a light
color. Turn them out into pots as soon as preserved, and set them away in a
cool place. Look at them in the course of a week to see if they have
fermented--if so, turn the syrup from them, boil it. and turn it back
while hot. The parings and cores of the quinces can be used for marmal
ade, with a few whole ones. Some people prefer to preserve the
quinces with the cores in, but the syrup will not look clear. The
following is a cheap method of preserving quinces, and answers very well
for common use: Pare, halve, and take out the cores of the quinces, and
boil the parings in new cider till soft. Strain the cider, and
for five pounds of quinces put in a pound of brown sugar, a quart
of molasses, the beaten white of an egg--clarify it, then put in
the quinces. There should be rather more than enough rider to cover the
quinces, as it wastes a good deal while the quinces are boiling.
The peel of an orange cut in small pieces, and boiled with them, gives
the quinces a fine flavor. 
 
 Quince Marmalade. --Gather the fruit
when fully ripe, and of a fine yellow; pare, quarter, and core it. Put the
quinces into a saucepan with a little water, set them on the fire
until they are quite soft; then take them out, and lay them on a sieve to
drain; rub them through, and put to each pound of the strained quinces a
pound of brown sugar. Set it on a few coals, and let it stew
slowly, stirring it constantly. When it has stewed an hour, take a little of it
out, let it get cold--if it then cuts smooth, it is sufficiently stewed. 
 
 Quince Jelly. --Halve the quinces, and
take out the cores. Boil the quinces till very soft in clear
water, mash them, and let them drain through a flannel bag, without
squeezing them. Put to the quince liquor, when drained through the bag,
white sugar in the proportion of a pound to a pint of liquor. Add the
whites of eggs, and clarify it. When clear, boil it on a moderate fire
till it becomes a thick jelly. Fill glasses with the jelly, and
cover them tight. The quince pulp that remains in the jelly-bag can be
made into marmalade.   1580.--TO PRESERVE PEACHES,
APRICOTS, NECTARINES, AND PLUMS. 
 September is the best month for peaches, as they are then harder and
larger. Weigh the peaches, put them into a preserving-pan full of
cold water, with a slice or two of lemon; set them on a slow
fire, have ready a sieve and a napkin, and be careful not to do them too
much. 
 Some of the peaches will be ready sooner than others; when they begin
to be soft they are done enough; take them out as they become soft, and drain
them on a sieve, and let them stand until cold; then make a syrup, to
every pound of  peaches allowing a pound of
loaf-sugar-- use some of the water in which the peaches
were boiled for the syrup. Take the kernels of half a dozen
peaches, throw them into hot water and remove their skins,
then boil them with the syrup you are making. Put the peaches
into jars and glasses, and pour the syrup over them. 
 Gut several round pieces of paper, dip them in brandy,
lay them over the pre serves, and tie up the jars. 
 Apricots, nectarines, and plums, may be preserved in
the same manner. 
 This way of preserving peaches is much preferable to cutting them up
and then preserving them. The fruit should not be permitted to boil
until it becomes shrivelled.   1581.--BRANDY PEACHES. 
 To each pound of peaches take three-quarters of a pound of white
sugar. Make a syrup, in half of which boil the fruit, having
first taken off the skin by scalding them in hot lye, which is made by
dissolving as much salsoda in boiling water as will make it strong
enough to bear an egg. 
 The peaches are to be taken out of the lye as soon as the skin
begins to crack, and thrown into cold water, when they can be rubbed
quite clean with a coarse cloth. Rinse them in fresh water, wrap them in
a cloth to drain, and keep them covered, as on this depends their color. 
 When the boiled peaches are cold, add to the remainder of the
syrup the same quantity of brandy. Put away the peaches in
it, and cover tightly.   1582.--GREEN GAGES. 
 Allow equal weights of sugar and gages. Make a syrup of
white sugar, and just water enough to cover the plums.
Boil the plums slowly in the syrup ten minutes--turn them into a
dish, and let them remain four or five days, then boil them again, till the
syrup appears to have entered the plums. Put them into a china
jar, and in the course of a week turn the syrup from them, scald it, and
turn it over them hot.   1583.--TO PRESERVE PEARS. 
 Pare them very thin, and simmer them in a thin syrup, allowing only
one-quar ter of a pound of sugar to a pound of pears. Let them
lie for two days, add another quarter of a pound of sugar to each pound
of pears, and simmer them again. Let them lie all night, or longer if
you please, then simmer them once more, this time adding half a pound of
sugar to each pound of pears, with the juice of half a
lemon to every two pounds of fruit. A small portion of the
lemon-peel may also be used. The fruit may then be drained and
dried in the sun, so that they may be used dry; or they may be poured into the
jars with the syrup over them. 
 Another mode of preserving pears, and a less troublesome one, is to
pare, quarter and core the pears, boil them for an hour in as much
water as will cover them, then add to every pound of pears a
pound of white sugar and the juice of half a lemon, boil
the whole and skim it. When the pears are soft, pour them into jars and
the syrup over them; tie up the jars. 
 This is a much more expeditious way of preserving the pears, and
perhaps the best for large families, where sweetmeats are in daily use;
but the fruit itself does not look as clear and beautiful; as when
preserved by the former method. 
 
 Pear Marmalade  --Boil the pears with
the skins on. When soft, rub them through a sieve, and put to each pound
of pulp three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar. Stew it over a
slow fire till it becomes a thick jelly. It should be stirred
constantly.  
 
 Baked Pears .--Take half a dozen fine
pears; peel, cut them in halves, and take out the cores; put them into a
pan with half a pound of sugar, and some water. Set them in a
moderate oven till tender, then put them on a slow fire to stew gently; add
grated lemon-peel, and more sugar, if necessary. They will be
suffi ciently red.   1584.--GOOSEBERRIES. 
 The tops and tails being removed from the gooseberries, allow an
equal quantity of finely pounded loaf-sugar, and put a layer of each
alternately into a large deep jar; pour into it as much dripped
currant-juice, either red or white, as will dissolve the
sugar, adding its weight in sugar; the following day put all into
a preserving-pan and boil it. 
 
 Gooseberry Jam. --Take what quantity you
please of red, rough, ripe gooseberries; take half their quantity of
lump sugar; break them well, and boil them together for half an hour or
more, if necessary. Put it into pots and cover with paper. 
 1585.--CURRANT JELLY, (RED), 
 Strip off the currants, put them in a jar, set the jar in a kettle of
hot water, let it boil an hour, then throw the cur rants and
juice into a fine lawn sieve, press out all the juice, and to
every pint of juice put a pound of fine sugar; put them in a
preserving-pan, set it over a charcoal fire and keep it stirring till it
is in a jelly, which you will know by tak ing a little out to cool; be
careful to take off the scum as it rises, and when it is jellied and very clear
pour it into glasses; when cold, cut round pieces of paper that will
just cover the jelly, dip ped in brandy, put white paper
over the glasses, twisting round the top. Make black currant jelly the
same way, using coarse sugar.   1586.--CLEAR APPLE JELLY. 
 Pare and cut up five dozen large juicy, acid apples; put them in a
pan with as much water as will cover them, let them boil gently until
soft, let them get cold, then strain them through a jelly bag, put the
juice in your preserving-pan, and to each pint of juice put one
pound of fine sugar and the peel of two lemons, then boil it
until it is reduced to the stiffness of calves'-foot jelly, skim
it well, add the juice of a lemon; it should be made in September, the
flavor of the apple is better. 
 Jelly may be made from apricots, raspberries,
grapes, and other fruits, using a pound of sugar for each
pint of juice, and following the above directions.   1587.--COLORING
FOR JELLIES, ETC. 
 For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest
powder, with a dracham and a half of cream tartar in half a pint of
water, very slowly, half an hour; add in boiling a bit of alum,
the size of a pea, or use beet-root sliced, and some liquor
poured over. 
 For white, use almonds finely powdered, with a little drop of
water, or use cream. 
 For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in the
liquor and squeezed. 
 For green, pound spinach leaves or beet leaves, express the
juice, and boil a teacupful in a saucepan of water to take of the
rawness.   1588.--FROSTED FRUIT. 
 Pick out the finest cherries, plums, apricots,
grapes, or small pears--leave on their stalks. Beat the whites
of three eggs to a stiff froth--drain them, and beat the part that drips
off again. Lay the fruit in the beaten egg witht he stalks
upward--select them out one by one, and dip them into a cup of finely
powdered sugar. Cover a pan with a sheet  
of fine paper, place the fruit inside of it, and
set it in an oven that is cooling. When the icing on the fruit becomes
firm pile them on a dish and set them in a cool place.   1589.--GRAPES
IN BRANDY. 
 Take some close bunches, black or white, not over-ripe, and lay them
in a jar. Put a good quantity of pounded white sugar upon them, and fill
up the jar with brandy 5 tie them close down with a bladder, and keep in
a dry place. Each grape should be pricked thrice. 
 They make a beautiful middle dish in a winter dessert. 
 1590.--CRANBERRY JELLY. 
 Make a very strong isinglass jelly. When cold, mix it with a double
quan-tity of cranberry juice pressed, sweeten it with loaf sugar,
and boil it up; then strain it into a shape.   1591.--TO PRESERVE
STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, AND BLACKBERRIES, WHOLE. 
 The strawberries should be gathered fresh from the vines. Select the
largest, and those perfectly unbroken. Mash up the others and boil them for a
quarter of an hour without any water--strain them through a fine
jelly-bag. 
 Measure the juice, and allow a pound of loaf sugar, to every
quart of strawberry juice. 
 When you make the syrup allow a pint of spring water to every
two pounds of sugar--skim the syrup thoroughly. When the scum
ceases to rise pour in the juice of the berries and boil it from
five to fifteen minutes, or until the syrup will hang in drops from a
spoon. 
 Pour the syrup into glass jars or tum-blers, and lifting the whole
strawberries with a spoon, put as many of them in each jar as it will
hold, without being at all crowded. The syrup should cover all well, and
it is better to have too few than too many in every jar. Let the jars stand
until the syrup is quite cold, and then tie them up with paper
dipped in brandy.   1592.--TO DRY CHERRIES. 
 Weigh the cherries before they are stoned, and allow to every pound
of fruit a quarter of a pound of lump-sugar; when they are stoned
set them over a slow fire to heat, then take them out of the liquor and put the
sugar to them, and let them stand till it is dissolved. Then set them
over the fire and let them just boil. Allow them to stand until they are quite
cold, or, if convenient, for two or three days, in the syrup;
after-wards strain them, and spread them on sieves to dry, either on a stove or
in the sun, or in an oven after the bread is drawn. 
 The same syrup will do again for more fruit. 
  To Dry without Sugar. --Stone, and set them
over the fire in the preserving-pan; let them simmer in their own liquor, and
shake them in the pan. Put them in china common dishes; next day give them
another scald, and put them when cold on sieves to dry in an oven of temperate
heat. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do them. Put them in a box, with a
paper be-tween each layer.   1593.--CURRANT JAM. 
 Strip your currants, and put them into your pan, with three-quarters
of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, add your sugar
after your fruit has boiled a few minutes, boil all together, mashing
your fruit with a wooden spoon; boil all gently for half an hour, then
fill your jars. 
 
 Currants Preserved. --Take the seeds
and stalks from whatever quantity of currants you intend to use, of
which a fourth part must be white currants; put  them into a preserving pan with a glass of water, let
them boil up until the fruit bursts, then strain the juice twice,
clarify and boil to casse some sugar, an equal weight to the
fruit, pour the juice on it, boil them together a quarter of an
hour, and having skimmed it well, pour it into pots. 
 
 To preserve them dry. --Tie up in bunches; to
every pound of currants boil two pounds of sugar, till it boils
very strong, dip in the currants, let them boil very fast till the
sugar flies all over them; when settled a quarter of an hour boil them
till the sugar rises almost to the top of the pan, let them settle, skim
them and set them by till next day, then drain them and lay them out, taking
care to spread the sprigs that they may not dry clogged together; dust them
very much, and dry them in a hot stove.   1594.--FIGS GREEN, TO
PRESERVE. 
 Slit some small green figs on the top, and put them into water
for ten days, and proceed thus:--Put as much salt into the water
as will make it bear an egg, then let it settle, take off the
scum and put the clear brine to the figs, keep them for ten days;
then put them into fresh water, shifting them every day for four days;
again drain, then put them into clarified sugar, warm them a little and
let them stand till the next day; warm them again, and when they are become
green give them a good boil, then boil some sugar down, put it to them
and give them another boil, and next day drain and dry them. 
 1595.--FIGS RIPE, TO PRESERVE. 
 Take the figs when ripe, slit them in the tops, put them into
clarified sugar, and give them a good boil, skim them, and leave them to
stand till the next day. then boil some more sugar, put it to the
figs and give them another boil, the next day drain and dry them. 
 
 Ripe or Green Tomatoes --Make a nice
preserve. They require a more than usual quantity of sugar. 
 1596.--GINGER, PRESERVED. 
 Take some green ginger, and with a sharp knife pare it neatly, and as
it is pared throw into a pan of cold water to keep it white 5
when you have a sufficient quantity boil it till tender, changing the
water three times each time; put it into cold water to take out
the heat or spirit of the ginger, when tender throw it into
cold water. For seven pounds of ginger clarify eight pounds of
refined sugar; when cold drain the ginger and put it into an
earthen pan, with a sufficient quantity of the sugar cold to cover it,
and let it stand for a couple of days; then pour the syrup from the
ginger to the remainder of the sugar, boil it for some time, and
when cold pour it on the ginger again, and set by for three days at
least. Then take the syrup from the ginger, boil it, and then put
it hot over the ginger; pro-ceed in this manner until you find the
sugar has entered the ginger; boiling the syrup and
skimming off the scum that rises each time until the syrup becomes rich
as well as the ginger; if the syrup is put on hot at first, or if
too rich the ginger will shrink and not take the sugar. 
 1597.--MARMALADE. 
 Marmalade may be composed almost of any fruit; the best
however for this purpose are apricots, peaches, oranges,
quinces, eggs, plums, apples, &c.; they are
usually made by boiling the fruit and sugar together to a kind of
pulp, stirring them constantly while on the fire. It is kept in pots
which must not be covered, till the marmalade is quite cold 5 the
proportion of sugar is half a pound to each pound of fruit. 
 1598.--APPLE MARMALADE. 
 Boil some pippins until they begin to 
get tender, then put them into cold water, pare and core them, squeeze
the pulp through a sieve, and put it over the fire, letting it remain
till it becomes very thick, then weigh an equal quantity of fine sugar,
boil till the sugar rises in sparkles which cluster together, put the
marmalade to it, and stir them well with a wooden spoon till the
apples begin to boil, then take it off, and when a little cool put it
into pots, but do not cover them until quite cold.   1599.--ORANGE
MARMALADE. 
 Blanch the rinds of fifteen oranges without any of the
white till soft, then soak them in cold water for a few min-utes,
drain and pound them to a paste, which rub through a sieve; ascertain
its weight, and for each pound allow a pound and a half of sugar;
clarify and boil the sugar till the bubbles rise strong-ly to the
surface; put in the paste and boil them together, stirring continually
till the marmalade is done. To know when the marmalade is fit to
turn out and be potted, take some up between your thumb and finger, and if on
opening them it draws out like a thread it is done. The Southerners use bitter
oranges. 
 Marmalades of raspberries, blackberries, plums,
grapes, &c., are most in favor.   JAMS.   1600.--RASPBERRRY. 
 Take equal weights of fruit and moist sugar 5 put them on the
fire together; keep stirring and breaking the fruit till the
sugar melts, then boil it till it will jelly on a plate. 
 1601.--CHERRY. 
 Stone four pounds of cherries, and put them in a preserving-pan with
two pounds of fine white sugar and a pint of red-currant juice.
Boil the whole together rather fast, until it stiffens, and then put it into
pots for use.   1602.--BLACKBERRY. 
 In families where there are many children, there is no preparation of
fruit so wholesome, so cheap, and so much ad-mired, as this homely
conserve. The fruit should be clean picked in dry weather, and to every
pound of berries put half a pound of coarse brown sugar; boil the
whole together for three-quarters of an hour or one hour, stirring it well the
whole time. Put it in pots like any other preserve, and it will be found
most useful in families, as it may be given to children instead of
medicine. 
 
 Compotes  of fruit are made by prepar-ing a
syrup, and simmering the fruit in it two or three minutes, then
pouring the syrup over, after it is boiled down a little; a delicate
light jelly is thus formed round the fruit. Not more than half
the weight of the fruit in sugar, or even a less proportion, is
used. The dish is a nice one for desserts, but will not keep. All kinds of
fresh fruit may be thus prepared.   1603.--TO PRESERVE ORANGES
OR LEMONS IN JELLY. 
 Out a hole at the stalk the size of a shilling, and with a small blunt knife
scrape out the pulp quite clear, without cutting the rind, and
lay them in spring water two days, changing it twice a day; in the last,
boil them tender on a slow fire, keeping them covered to the last. To every
pound of fruit take two pounds of double-refined sugar and one
pint of water; boil the two latter together with the juice of the
orange to a syrup, and clarify it; skim well, and let it stand to
be cold; then boil the fruit in the syrup half an hour; if not
clear, do this daily bill they are, done.  
 1604.--TO PRESERVE LEMON PEEL. 
 Squeeze the juice out of the lemons, put the rinds,
with the pulps, into water, and let them remain a fortnight,
taking care always to have them covered with the same water; then take
out the pulp, and boil the rinds in the water till they
can be pierced with a knitting needle 5 make a rich syrup of brown
sugar--pound for pound of rinds--and pour it boiling over them;
cover close for three weeks, then give them a second boil in the syrup,
and cover for use.   1605.--BARBERRY CAKES. 
 Pick the barberries and weigh them; to every pound of fruit add one
pound of sugar pounded and sifted. Bruise the barberries in a mortar,
boil them gently till nearly all the juice is consumed, then take them
off the fire and stir in the sugar by degrees; drop the fruit on
ear-then dishes to dry: it must not go over the fire after the
sugar is put in, nor must there be any water used. Do not pound
the barberries too small, as the cakes will not look so well. 
 Currant cakes may be made in the same way.   1606.--RASPBERRY
CAKES. 
 Take any quantity of fruit you please, weigh and boil it, and when
mashed, and the liquor is washed, add as much sugar as was equal in
weight to the raw fruit. Mix it very well off the fire till the whole is
dissolved, then lay it on plates, and dry it in the sun. When the top part
dries cut it off into small cakes, and turn them on a fresh plate. When dry,
put the whole in boxes with layers of paper.   1607.--BRANDY
CHERRIES. 
 Get the largest morel cherries you can, cut off half of the stalk,
pricking each cherry with a needle, putting them as you do them into a
high glass; add three quarters of the weight in white candy sugar
bruised between until full, a gill of Noyeau, and then fill up with French
brandy; tie a bladder over the bottle.   1608.--CHERRIES IN
BRANDY. 
 Choose the finest and ripest cherries, leave on half the stalks, wash
and weigh them; to every pound of fruit allow a quarter of a pound of
sugar; when you have clarified and boiled it, put in the fruit,
boil them up two or three times, then put the cherries into bottles, or
glass jars; when filled, add to each twelve cloves and half an ounce of
cinnamon tied in a linen bag, put to the sugar when nearly cold,
brandy in proportion of a pint and a half to a pound of fruit,
mix them together well, and pour them on the cherries. In two months'
time taste them, and if sufficiently flavored, take out the cloves and
cinnamon; cover the jars close. 
 Plums, apricots, &c., can be done the same way.   1609.--MOCK
PRESERVED GINGER. 
 Boil, as if for the table, small, tender, white carrots; scrape them
until free from all spots, and take out the hearts. Steep them in
spring water, changing it every day, until all vegetable flavor has left
them. To every pound of carrot so prepared, add one quart of
water, two pounds of loaf-sugar, two ounces of whole
ginger, and the shred rind of a lemon. Boil for a quarter of an
hour every day, until the carrots are clear; and, when nearly done, add
red pepper to taste. This will be found equal to West India preserved
ginger.   1610.--YANKEE APPLE BUTTER. 
 Boil cider down one half; put in as many apples as the liquor
will contain, stew them soft; then take them out and  put in fresh apples. When they are cold boil them
again in the cider til they are pulpy and thick. Add different kinds of
spice, a little before it is done Keep in covered jars. 
 1611.--CRANBERRY SAUCE. 
 Simmer the berries in a very little water, till very thick and
pulpy; sweeten to taste; they will require as much as preserves; strain
the marmalade into a mould.   1612.--TO KEEP PEACHES FRESH. 
 Pare and halve your peaches, have your cans perfectly dry, set one at
a time in a bain marie in boiling water, to drive out the air. Fill the
can as full as you can without bruising the fruit; if you have plenty of
fruit, boil some in a very little water, fill the can with
it--and seal it immediately. Do not put any sugar in the peaches
or juice. If you have not much fruit, a little boiling
water will do, as each can will hold but a few spoonfuls. Do not let it
boil until it becomes colored. Any fruit or vegetables may be pre-served
in the same manner. Inspect the cans daily, and if the tops bulge out, be sure
the sealing has not been perfect, and fermentation has begun. Then open the
can, use the article, and put up a fresh quantity. To open the can, set it in
the oven, till the cement is soft; then lift out the cover, and let the can
cool. To open glass jars, hold a flat-iron, heated, on the cover till the
cement softens. 
 Butter may be kept unchanged for years in air-tight vessels, as sweet
as if fresh from the dairy. To insure means in excluding the air, it is best to
fill the vessel nearly full of well worked fresh butter, allowing room
for a thin layer of salt; over this lay a piece of white paper;
pour on the paper half a teaspoonful of spirits of wine; set it
on fire; hold the cover over the flame for an instant, and if you have
spirits enough, it will furnish heat for the cover, then put it into
place while the spirits are burning. 
 Or, powder two pounds fine salt, one pound loaf-sugar, and
half a pound of saltpetre. Sift these ingredients over a large sheet of
paper, and mix them well; then keep them covered close in a jar in a dry
place. When the butter is well worked and salted, and ready to go into
jars, use one ounce of this composition to every pound of butter. Work
it well into the mass. In a month place the butter thus prepared into
jars or else lay a cloth over the butler; on this put a layer of salt,
with a piece of white paper on the salt; pour a little
spirits on the paper, set fire to it, and seal as above
directed.   1613.--TO KEEP TOMATOES. 
 Peel the tomatoes, and put them in a kettle over the fire till they
boil for ten or fifteen minutes. They are then ready for sealing. The
half-gallon or gallon sized cans are the best for the purpose. Fill one with
the hot tomatoes, wipe off from the cement any juice, and put on
the cover. The contents of the can will so heat the cover, that it is only
neces-sary to press it firmly into place. When first closed, as the confined
steam is elastic, it will rise up, and a weight, say of five or six pounds,
must be used to keep it down; or a piece of ice may be aid on it, which will
condense the steam within. If the can is larger than the weight, put a board on
first. When the cans are cold, if the sealing is perfect, the tops and bottoms
will be concave. If the cement of the cover should not be sufficiently melted,
hold on the top a heated flat-iron, till the cover goes down into its
place.   1614.--TO PRESERVE GREEN CORN. 
 Fill a strong tin canister with the corn, solder it tightly, place it
in boiling  water, and allow it to remain
several hours. The top and bottom will swell, and the can may burst (if not
strongly made) with the confined steam. Some puncture the vessel, and when the
steam escapes, solder up the opening. Others do not consider this necessary; or
if the vessel tightly covered, is cooked a long time in a bath of brine,
in which a higher temperature may be obtained than in water, and then
sealed hermetically, the vegetable will keep.   1615.--TO CLARIFY
SUGAR. 
 Take the quantity of fine white loaf sugar you intend to clarify, add
to it of very clean warm water, half a pint for every pound; when
dissolved add to it the white of one or two eggs--as the quantity
may require--well whipped; put it on the fire, and when it conies to a boil
pour into it an ordinary teacupful of cold water; on its rising again to
a boil, remove it, and let it settle for twenty minutes, skim the scum from the
top, pour off the syrup into a clean vessel with sufficient quickness to
leave all the sediment at the bottom, and such steadiness as to prevent any of
the latter rising and mixing with it.   1617.--TO BOIL SUGAR FOR
BASKETS OR SPINNING. 
 Fill quite full a pint and a half stew-pan with pieces of lump sugar,
fill the stewpan with clear spring water, let the water barely
cover the sugar, put it on to boil, skim it all the time that any scum
arises; let it boil fast with the stewpan flat upon the fire, not halfway; it
will not boil over if your fire is regular. Then get ready a large basin of
cold water, and when it has boiled some time and begins to appear all
froth or bladders do not go away and leave it; after having boiled so for some
few minutes, have a silver spoon and dip it into it, and then into the
water; if it is getting to a sub-stance pour in the juice of half
a lemon, free from pips, still keeping it boiling on the fire; keep
frequently trying it by dropping and spinning a little in the cold
water, and when it makes a crackling noise, and is very brittle, take off
your stewpan and pour it into a cold stewpan; work it well with your spoon,
give it one more boil, then take it off and hold the stewpan in cold
water, stirring it all the time, for a minute or two; it is then ready for
a basket, or spinning, or what you may require it for. It is but very little
used now for second courses; at breakfasts and ball suppers it is generally
introduced and liked, but it too frequently answers the purpose of lock and
key, saying as much, as "this must not be touched;" many think it will do
again, and do not like to break through it. 
 The various purposes to which sugar is applied require it to be in
different states; these are called degrees. They extend to the number of
thirteen, and are named in the following order: 
 
 Petit Lisse,  or 
 First degree. --Replace the clarified sugar in
the preserving-pan to boil gently, take a drop of it on the thumb, touch it
with the forefinger; if on opening them it draws to a fine thread, and in
breaking forms two drops on each finger, it is at the right point. 
 
 Lisse, Second degree. --A little more boiling brings
it to this point, when the thread will draw further before it breaks. 
 
 Petit Perle, Third degree. --At this point the thread
may be drawn as far as the span will open without breaking. 
 
 Grand Perle, Fourth degree. --On still increasing the
boiling, little raised balls are formed on the surface of the sugar. 
 
 Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth degree. --Take up some
of the sugar on a skim-mer, and drop it on the rest, when it should form
a slanting streak on the sur-face. 
 
 Grande Queue de Cochon, Sixth de-  
 gree. --Boil it yet a little longer; the streak or
tail is now larger, and it has reached this point. 
 
 Souffle, Seventh degree. --Take out a skimmerful of
the sugar, blow through it and small sparks of sugar will fly
from it. 
 
 Petit Plume, Eighth degree. --The same proof as
above; the sparks should be larger and stronger. 
 
 Grande Plume, Ninth degree. --Take the sugar
in the skimmer as before; give it a shake, and if the sparks are large, and
adhere together on rising, it is at the right point. 
 
 Petit Boulet, Tenth degree. --Dip your fingers in
cold water, and then into the sugar instantly, and again into the
water, when the sugar will roll into a ball which will be supple
when cold. 
 
 Gros Boulet, Eleventh degree. --At this point the
ball or bullet will be harder when cold than the last. 
 
 Casse, Twelfth degree. --Prove as above; the bullet
should crumble between the fingers, and on biting will stick to the teeth. 
 
 Caramel, Thirteenth degree. --At this point it
should snap clean when bitten. This point is very difficult to attain, for in
increasing the height, the sugar is apt to burn; it is better,
therefore, to try the proof very frequently. 
 Another 
 caramel  is much used by the confectioner, and
is of a deep color; it is made by putting a little water to the
sugar, and boiling it without skimming or otherwise touching the
sugar till of the right color, then take it off, and use
immediately. 
 If on preparing the sugar, you happen to miss the right point, add a
little cold water, and boil once more. 
 The skimmer should never be left in the preserving-pan after the
sugar is clarified, nor after the scum is removed. 
 Be very careful not to stir or disturb the sugar, as that would cause
its diminution. 
 In boiling the sugar, particularly the two last degrees, the
sugar is continu-ously rising and falling, and on falling leaves marks
on the side of the pan, which the heat of the fire would soon burn and thereby
spoil the whole of the sugar. To avoid this have a sponge with cold
water, and wipe the sides of the pan the instant the sugar has
fallen.   1617.--TO CANDY FRUIT. 
 Having prepared your fruit, steep it in the syrup, and lay it
as done in an open sieve, until the bottom is covered with one layer; steep
this suddenly in scald-ing water. This will remove any syrup
which may cling to the fruit. Lay them aside on a napkin to drain, and
go on with the others. You will have ready, finely-powdered, some of the best
loaf sugar; sift this over the fruit until they are white
all over, without being toe thickly encrusted; lay them so as not to touch each
other, on strainers or the reverse end of small sieves; place them in a
gently-warmed oven, watch them carefully, turning them until dry. The warmth of
the oven must not be in-creased, but must not abate until the fruit is
quite dry. 
 
 Almonds. --Blanch any quantity of
almonds, then fry them in butter till they are of a light brown
color; wipe them nicely with a napkin, and put them into a pan. Make a syrup
of white sugar, and boil it to a thread--that is, until on your taking a
drop of the sugar between the finger and thumb it will produce a thread;
care must be taken to boil it to the exact candying-point; pour it boil-ing-hot
upon the almonds, and stir them till they are quite cold. This is an
ex-cellent method of preparing almonds for dessert.  
 
 Bon-bons. --Clear off the sugar from fresh
candied citron or orange-rind, cut it into squares one inch
thick, stick them singly on a bit of thin wire, and dip them into liquid
barley-sugar; rub a dish with a few drops of pure salad oil, and
lay the fruit upon this to cool. They should be kept in tin canisters in
a very dry place. 
 
 Toffie. --Melt in a stewpan three ounces of fresh
butter, add one pound of good moist sugar, stir it well over a
gentle fire, and let it boil about a quarter of an hour, or till it cracks
short between the teeth like barley-sugar 5 then pour it upon buttered
dishes, and when nearly cold mark it across in squares that it may easily
divide, or roll it into sticks. When half-boiled, the grated rind of a lemon
or a teaspoonful of ground ginger may be added. A few sliced almonds
may be added after it is poured upon the dishes.   BEVERAGES. 
 Louis XII., of France, first gave permission to distil spirits on a
large scale. So terrific were the effects twenty years afterwards, that
Francis, his successor, was obliged, for the safety of his subjects, to enact a
law, that the drunkard who remained incorrigible, after severe monitory
punishments, should suffer amputation of the ears, and be banished from
the kingdom. How much more wisely would Francis have acted, if, instead of
banishing the drunkard, he had banished the pernicious material of drunkenness!
Take another example: Sweden was a temperate country, ardent spirits
being, to a great extent, prevented from coming into ordinary use. In 1783,
however, Gustavus, king of Sweden, gave permission for opening spirit
shops in all the villages of his kingdom. His object was to increase his
revenue, and that object he apparently for a time accomplished; for immediately
ardent spirits were loaded with fictitious excellences, by those who
loved them, and those who were interested in their sale: the drinking of them,
which had formerly been carried on in secret, now became respectable; and the
consumption of them was greatly increased. But mark the consequence;--such was
the increase of drunkenness and crime, of fatal accidents and premature
mortality, that the very same king who gave the permission, was obliged, for
the preservation of his people, to withdraw it. 
 
 Spruce Beer. --Allow an ounce of hops
and a spoonful of ginger to a gallon of water. When well boiled,
strain it, and put in a pint of molasses and half an ounce or less of
the essence of spruce; when cool, add a teacup of yeast, and
put into a clean tight cask, and let it ferment for a day or two, then bottle
it for use. You can boil the sprigs of spruce-fir in room of the
essence. 
 
 Ginger Beer. --Fourteen gallons water,
fourteen pounds loaf sugar, four ounces ginger, well pounded 5
boil one hour, add the whites of eight eggs beat up, and take off the
scum; strain the liquor into an earthen pan, let it stand till cold, then put
it into your cask with the peel of fourteen lemons cut thin, and their
juice strained. Add half a spoonful of ale-yeast on the top. Stop
the vessel closely for a fortnight. Then it may be bottled, and in another
fortnight will be fit for use. 
 
 Another for Ginger Beer. --One pound
sugar, one ounce ginger, one-half ounce of cream of
tartar, one lemon sliced. Put all into a pan, pour over one and a half
gallons boiling water, and when milk-warm put in a little
yeast; let it stand all night to work; bottle it; and in three days it
is fit for use.  
 
 Lemonade. --Three lemons to a pint of
water, makes strong lemonade; sweeten to your taste. 
 This is the best beverage for parties; cool, refreshing, pleasant, and
salubrious. 
 
 Orangeade. --Roll and press the juice from the
oranges, in the same way as from lemons. It requires less
sugar than lemonade. The water must be pure and cold, and then
there can be nothing more delicious than these two kinds of drink. 
 
 Currant Wine. --Gather the currants
when dry, extract the juice, either by mashing and pressing the
fruit, or putting it in a jar, placed in boiling water; strain
the juice, and for every gallon allow one gallon of water and
three pounds of sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the water,
and take off the scum; let it cool, add it to the currant juice, and put
the mixture in a keg, but do not close it tightly till it has ceased
fermenting, which will not be under a week. In three or four weeks it may be
bottled. The white of an egg beaten, mixed with a teaspoonful of
cream of tartar, and stirred into the liquid, makes the wine look
clear and bright. Some add a portion of spirits. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar. --To two and a half quarts
of ripe raspberries put one pint of the best vinegar. Bruise them
well, and let it stand three days. Strain the juice through a bag, and
add its weight of sugar. Boil it, skim well, and bottle it closely. 
 
 Syrup of Almonds. --Blanch and pound in a
marble mortar one pound of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds; adding
a spoonful or two of orange-flower water. Mix a pint of rosewater
with one of pure water, add it to the almonds, and pass the whole
through a lawn sieve. Then boil three pints clarified syrup, and when it
boils put in the almonds, and let them boil one minute. When cold put it
into bottles, and cork it for use. 
 To make it for immediate use, after pounding the almonds, mix them
with a quart of water, one of milk, and one of clarified
syrup or capillaire, and pass through a sieve. 
 
 Valencia Wine. --To each gallon of good
spirits take the peel of eighteen lemons; let them remain
forty-eight hours in the spirits; then add the juice with five
quarts of cold spring water, three pounds of loaf sugar, a
quarter of a pound of bitter almonds well blanched, half a drachm of
saffron, and two ounces of ground ginger; mix all together, and
pour over all three quarts new milk, scalding hot, but not boiled let it
stand till next day, then run it through flannel, like jelly. 
 
 Mead without fruit. --Boil honey--three
or four pounds to a gallon of water--for an hour, skimming carefully,
draining the skimmings, and returning what runs through. When nearly cool, stir
in a teacupful of yeast for nine gallons, and let it ferment. Put it in
a cool cellar, and bottle in a year. 
 Currants and raspberry juice, orange and lemon
peel, spices and aromatic herbs are often added to
mead; the last towards the end of the fermentation, in a muslin bag,
weighed down with a piece of flint. Six quarts of red currants and two
of black will do for twenty-five pounds of honey. 
 
 Ratafias. --Ratafias are liquors prepared by infusing
the juices and kernels of fruit in strong spirit with
sugar. For the ratafia of cherries take two quarts of rectified
spirits of wine, add two drachms beaten cinnamon, one of bruised
cloves, and one ounce bruised coriander seeds. Cover and let them
stand a week; then from morella and black heart cherries press twelve
pints of juice, add three pounds powdered loaf sugar, and mix
with the spirit and spices; add half the cherry stones,
mashed in a mortar. Closely cover the stone jar, containing all these, and stir
or shake it frequently.  In two months pour it
off; press and filter the residuum. Then put it into bottles and cork it. 
 
 Ratafia. --Blanch two ounces of peach and
apricot kernels, bruise and put them into a bottle, and fill nearly up
with brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white sugar-candy in a cup
of cold water, and add to the brandy after it has stood a month
on the kernels, and they are strained off; then filter through paper and
bottle for use. The distilled leaves of peaches and nectarines,
when the trees are cut in the spring, are an excellent substitute for ratafia
in puddings. 
 
 Capillaire,  is so called from being prepared from a
kind of fern called 
 capillus veneris,  or maiden-hair; but almost any
other fern may be substituted for it. A syrup made from the Canada
capillaire, with maple sugar, is sold.   BEVERAGES COMPOSED PARTLY OF
FERMENTED LIQUORS. 
 
 Hot spiced wines  were much in use till the beginning
of the sixteenth century; and some of these favorite compounds were known by
the names of 
 ypocras, sack,  and 
 clary.  The first of these, which took its
name from the bag through which it was strained, called by apothecaries
"Hippocrates's sleeve," was made either of white or red wine with
aromatics, such as ginger, cinnamon, aromatic seeds, and
sugar. Clary was made from claret, with honey and
aromatics; and sack from the wine of that name, a kind of sherry.
These were drunk as a "night cap," and at the conclusion of a banquet. Le
Grand, in his "Vie privée des Francois," observes that the poets of the
thirteenth century speak with rapture of these delicious beverages; and it is
said that they were highly esteemed in convents and universities. A scale of
perfection was even observed: when the compound was made of Bordeaux
wine, it was simply called 
 Bishop;  but received the name of 
 Cardinal  when old Rhine wine was used; and
rose to the dignity of 
 Pope  when imperial Tokay was employed. The vestiges
of these ancient mixtures may still be seen in our mulled wine and
bishop. 
 
 To mull Wine. --Boil the spices
(cinnamon, nutmeg grated, cloves, and mace) in any
quantity approved, in half a gill of water; put to this a full pint of
port, with sugar to taste. Mix it well, and serve hot with thin slips of
toast or rusks. Lemon or orange juice may be added, and the
water may be strained off from the spices. 
 Ale or Porter may be mulled  as above, and
have toast or biscuits put to them. Formerly the yolks of
eggs were mixed with mulled wine, as in making custard or
egg-caudle, and many flavoring ingredients were employed which are now
disused. 
 
 Bishop. --The day before it is wanted, grill over a
clear, slow fire, of a pale brown, three large, bitter oranges. Place
them in a small punch-bowl that will about hold them, and pour over them a full
half pint from a bottle of old Bordeaux wine, in which a pound and a
quarter of loaf sugar is dissolved. Cover with a plate. When it is to be
served next day, cut and squeeze the oranges into a small sieve placed
above a jug, containing the remainder of the bottle of wine, previously
made very hot; add more syrup if it is wanted. Serve hot in large
glasses, or in summer it may be iced. Bishop is often made of Madeira in
England, and is perfumed with nutmegs, bruised cloves, and
mace. It ought, however, to be made of old generous Bordeaux
wine, or it fails of its purpose as a tonic liqueur. It is reckoned
highly stomachic, and is served at French dinners, 
 savans  and 
 recherchés,  either as the coup 
 d'après  or after the dessert. 
 
 The wassail bowl  of ancient times was  made of mild ale, well spiced and sweetened; and
sometimes with eggs beat up in it. 
 The ancient Ypocras was made of a quart of red wine, an ounce of
cinnamon, half an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an ounce of
pepper, and half a pound of sugar, all put into a bag and infused
in the wine. 
 
 Cool Tankard. --The composition of this ancient
beverage is of great variety. The basis is home-brewed ale,
spices, and seasoning herbs. Some use cider instead of
ale.    Covered Pitcher.  An illustratio of a ceramic pitcher with a lid.   
  Egg Flip. --Heat a quart of good ale,
and pour it into a pitcher; in a similar pitcher beat up three or four
eggs with a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and one or two
glasses of rum or brandy, flavoring it with nutmeg,
ginger, and grated lemon peel. When the ale is quite hot,
but not boiling, pour it quickly into the jug with the eggs, return this
back into the other jug, and thus keep pouring the mixture backward and forward
from one jug to another, till the whole is thoroughly incorporated, and as
smooth as cream. 
 
 Egg hot. --This is made in the same manner as
the last, only there is no spirits nor spices; simply the
egg, and ale or beer, with sugar. 
 
 Ale Posset. --Boil a pint of new milk
with a slice of toasted bread; pour a bottle of mild ale into a
punch-bowl, sweeten, and add spices, and then pour the boiling
milk over it. 
 
 Sack Posset. --Boil some cream and grated
sweet biscuits; add sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
Warm some sherry, and stir it into the cream; then pour the whole
quickly from one vessel to another until it be perfectly smooth; or it may be
made with eggs beat up in milk instead of the cream. 
 
 Punch is a beverage made of  various spirituous
liquors or wine, hot water, the acid juices of fruits, and
sugar. It is considered to be very intoxicating; but this is probably
because the spirit being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous
juice and the sugar, its strength does not appear to the taste so
great as it really is. Punch was almost universally drunk among the middle
classes about fifty or sixty years ago. 
 
 English Punch. --Rub the yellow rind of a lemon
with lump sugar; put this sugar into the punch-bowl, and squeeze
the lemon juice to it, add the spirits, rum and
brandy, in such proportions as are preferred, incorporate the
spirits thoroughly with the sugar and lemon before pouring in
the boiling water, and keep stirring the whole while this is pouring:
some add Madeira or sherry. Punch is kept also cold in bottles,
and in summer is liked. It is frequently made with whiskey. 
 
 Regent's Punch. --A bottle of Champagne, a
quarter of a pint of brandy, a glassful of 
 veritable Martinique:  with this mix a pint or more
of a strong infusion of the best green tea, strained, and capillaire or
simple syrup to taste. 
 
 Norfolk Punch. --Pare thirty-two oranges, and
the same number of lemons; infuse the peel for two days in a large
bottle or jar with a gallon of brandy (or whiskey), a little
reduced in strength; clarify in a gallon of 
water four pounds of sugar; when cold, strain the brandy
(which will now be a tincture) to this; add the juices of the
oranges and lemons, previously strained and bottled, when the
peel is taken off; cask the liquor, or put it in a jar, and stop it well; in
six weeks it may be gently poured, or drawn off, and bottled. A tincture
of bruised nutmegs and cloves may be added to this compound; this
will keep any length of time, and in any climate. 
 
 Victoria or 32d Regiment Punch. -- Take the peel of
two dozen lemons, and steep it for thirty-six hours in two quarts of
rum. Pour the juice of the lemons on three pounds and a half
of loaf sugar. Add two quarts of brandy, and seven quarts of
cold water. 
 Mix these together, and add by degrees two quarts of boiling milk,
stirring it well. Let it stand four hours. 
 Strain it two or three times through a flannel jelly bag, till
perfectly clear; bottle and cork it tight. Age improves it very much. 
 
 Milk Punch. --Mix wine or brandy
with milk; sweeten to taste; grate nutmeg on it. 
 
 Wine Punch. --Port wine, two pints;
arrack, two pints; the juice of twelve lemons; sugar, one
pound; hot water, six pints. 
 
 Tea Punch. --Hot tea, two pints;
arrack, thirteen ounces; sugar, four ounces; flavored by rubbing off the
yellow peel of the lemons. 
 
 French Punch. --Cut a lemon into thin slices,
taking out the seeds; boil them in water, and add a pinch of
green tea, and let it infuse five minutes; strain the whole, and add
brandy and sugar sufficient. 
 
 Auld Man's Milk of Scotland, or Egg-nog of
America. --Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs
separately; put to the beat yolks sugar and a quart of new milk,
or thin sweet cream; add to this rum, whiskey, or
brandy, about half a pint; put in the whites of the eggs whipped
up, and stir the whole gently. It may be flavored with nutmeg or rind
of lemon. 
 
 Sanguree  is a kind of punch frequently drunk in the
West Indies, and is composed of one-third Madeira or porter, and
two-thirds water, acidulated with lime juice and sweetened with
sugar. 
 
 Mulled Cider. --Boil a quart of cider,
watered, if too strong, with cloves and allspice. Beat six
eggs, sweeten, and add them to the boiling cider, with a pint or
more of cream. Pour the liquor from one pitcher to another till it has a
fine froth, and serve it warm. 
 
 Cherry Bounce. --Take twelve pounds
cherries, mashed, and mixed with three pounds sugar: add two
gallons whiskey. Put it into a closed vessel, shake it often, and let it
stand four months before bottling.   WINES AND LIQUEURS. 
 
 Ginger Wine. --Take fourteen gallons of
water, six pounds of sugar, four ounces of bruised ginger,
and the whites of two eggs, well beaten; mix them, set on a fire, boil
it fifteen minutes, skim it well, and when cold, pour it into an earthen
vessel, squeeze in the juice of four lemons, and the rinds
pared exceedingly thin, put to it a teacupful of ale-yeast, let it work
for a day and a night, then turn it into a cask, bung it up, and in a fortnight
you may bottle it off. 
  Blackberry Wine. --Put some ripe
blackberries into a large vessel with a cock in it; pour on as much
boiling water as will cover them, and as soon as the heat will permit,
bruise them well with the hand till all the berries are broken, cover
them, and in about three or four days, when the berries rise to the  top, draw off the clear part into another vessel; add to
every ten quarts of the liquor one pound of sugar, stir it well in, and
let it stand a week or ten days to work. Draw it off through a jelly
bag. Steep four ounces of isinglass in a pint of sweet wine for
twelve hours, then boil it slowly till dissolved, put it in a gallon of the
juice; boil them together, then put all together, let it stand a few
days, and bottle.     Water Cooler.   To preserve Ice twelve
hours.  An illustration of a container with a spigot.  

  Cherry Wine. --For every five pints of this
wine, take fifteen pounds of cherries, and two of
currants; bruise them together, mix with them two-thirds of the kernels,
and put the whole of the cherries, currants, and kernels into a
barrel with a quarter of a pound of sugar to every pint of juice.
The barrel must be quite full; cover the barrel with vine leaves and
sand above them, and let it stand until it has done working, which will be in
about three weeks; then stop it with a bung, and in two months' time it may be
bottled. 
 
 Rhubarb Wine. --The leaf stalks of
rhubarb cut in pieces as for tarts, and bruised with a wooden mallet to
express the juice, will make a wine equal to green
gooseberry, and resembling champagne. 
 
 Wine made from mixed fruits. --Take
cherries, raspberries, and black and white currants--of
each an equal quantity. To four pounds well bruised put one gallon of
water. Steep the mass three days and nights, frequently stirring it in
an open vessel, then run it through a hair sieve, and to each gallon of liquor
put three pounds sugar. Let it stand again three days and nights,
stirred often and skimming the top; then turn it into a cask, and let it
ferment at the bunghole two weeks. To every nine gallons put one quart best
brandy, and fasten down the bung. If not soon clear stir in a solution
of isinglass. 
 
 Black Currant Wine (very fine). --To every
three quarts of juice put the same of water unboiled, and to
every three quarts of the liquor add three pounds of very pure moist
sugar; put it into a cask, reserving for a little filling up; put the cask
in a warm dry room, and the liquor will ferment of itself; skim off the refuse
when the fermentation shall be over, and fill up with the reserved liquor; when
it has ceased working pour three quarts of brandy to forty quarts of
wine; bung it close for nine months, then bottle it, and drain the thick
part through a jelly-bag until it be clear, and bottle that; keep it ten or
twelve months. This recipe is most excellent. The wine will keep for six
years. 
 
 Gooseberry Wine. --To every three pounds of
gooseberries put a pint of spring water unboiled, having first
bruised the fruit with the hands in a tub; stir them very well; let them
stand a whole day, then strain them off, and to every three pounds of
gooseberries add a pint of water, and one pound of sugar
dissolved; let it stand twenty-four hours longer, then skim the head
clean off, and put the liquor into a vessel, and the scum into a flannel bag,
adding the liquor that drains from it to that in the vessel; let it work two or
three days before stopping it up close, and allow it to stand  four months before it is bottled. When it is drawn out of
the cask it should not be tapped too low. 
 
 Green Gooseberry Wine. --Take thirty-two
quarts of unripe gooseberries of the green kind, bruise them well, add
thirty-two quarts of cold water; let them stand for twenty-four hours;
drain the goose-berries well from the liquor through a sieve; put three
pounds and a half of lump-sugar to every gallon of liquor put it into a
cask with a bottle of the best gin; let it stand six months, and then
bottle it. 
 
 Frontiniac. --Boil eighteen pounds of white
sugar in six gallons of water with two whites of eggs well
beaten. Skim it, and put in a quarter peck of elder-flowers; do not keep
them on the fire; when nearly cold, stir it, and add six spoonfuls of
lemon-juice and four or five of yeast; beat the whole well
into the liquor. Stir it every day, put six pounds of the best raisins,
stoned, into the cask, and tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottle it at
the end of six months. This wine requires keeping. 
 
 Elder Wine. --Pour four quarts of water
upon eight quarts of berries, and let it stand a day or two; then boil
it for about an hour, strain it, and put three pounds of moist sugar to
every gallon of wine; then add one ounce of cloves and
cinnamon, with two ounces of ginger; boil it again, and work it
with a toast, dipped in yeast. 
 
 Elder-flower Wine. --Take twelve pounds
of loaf-sugar and six pounds of the best raisins, cut small, and
boil them in six gallons of water for one hour. Then take half a peck of
elder-flowers, when ready to shake; put them into the liquor, when it is
nearly cold, with four table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and six of
lemon-juice. Let it work two days in the tub, then strain it, put it
into the barrel, bung it up closely for two months, and then bottle it. 
 These are excellent domestic wines, generally taken mulled, with dry
toast; and the flavor will be improved if, while warming, a grating of
nutmeg be added. 
 
 Negus. --One bottle of wine, half a pound of
sugar, and a lemon sliced. Pour three pints of boiling water
upon this mixture, and grate nutmeg to the taste. 
 Such is the common mode of making negus; for making a 
 single tumblerful,  however, as many people prefer to
do it in their own way, perhaps a better plan is to use only half the quantity
of water, poured 
 boiling hot  upon the wine already sweetened
and flavored with nutmeg; but having in it also a large and very thin
cut rind of orange, which gives it a very superior flavor, without any
portion of the acid. 
 The negus may be made of either white or red wine; and, if
drunk cold, is called "sangaree." 
 The following is a 
 French receipt: -- One pound of cherries, four
pounds of currants, two pounds of black cherries; squeeze all
together, then let it stand in a cool cellar for three days; put the
juice on the fire in a preserving-pan, and allow it to bubble; add
sugar as for raspberry vinegar, and bottle it. This makes a
delicious summer beverage. 
 
 Noyau. --To three quarts of best brandy
or spirits put three pounds of white sugar broken small, a
quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, the peel of two lemons and
juice of one, and eight ounces bitter almonds; mix, and when the
sugar is dissolved, pour in a pint of boiling milk. Cover close,
stir it every day for three weeks, and filter it through a filtering
paper. It may be necessary to add a little more spirits. 
 
 Elder Wine--another way. --To three pounds of
elderberries put one pound of 
damsons, and to a nine-gallon cask put a pint of sloes. Boil two gallons
of water with an ounce of hops for an hour and a half; then put
in sugar, such as four pounds to five quarts of water; keep
skimming as it rises, and then set it to cool; boil the fruit for half
an hour, strain the juice, and put a quart of it to every gallon of
water; then let it work with yeast for three days; put it in the
barrel and stop it close. The spice and sugar to be put according
to taste. When the wine has stood six weeks put in four pounds of stoned
raisins. 
 
 Pink Champagne. --Boil nine pounds of
lump-sugar in three gallons of water for half an hour, skim it
well, and pour the liquor boiling hot over a gallon of red and white
currants picked, but not bruised. When nearly cold, put in a small
teacupful of yeast. Keep it working for two days, then strain it through
a horse-hair sieve, put it into a small cask with half an ounce of
isinglass. Have rather more liquor than will fill the cask to fill it up
as it works over. In about a fortnight bung it up. Let it stand till April; put
into each bottle a lump of double-refined sugar. Let the bottles remain
one day uncorked. Cork and wire them. They must stand upright in the cellar;
when wanted, put a few on their sides for about a week. 
 
 Grape Champagne to equal foreign. -- Gather
the grapes when they are just turning, or about half ripe. Pound them in
a tub, and to every quart of fruit put two quarts of water. Let
it stand in a mash-tub for fourteen days, then draw it off, and to every gallon
of liquor add three pounds of lump-sugar. When the sugar is
dissolved, cask it, and, after it has done working, bung it down. In about six
months it will be fit to drink, when it should be bottled, and the corks tied
down, or wired if it is to be kept more than a year.  

 COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 
  Invalid's Breakfast Set.  An illustration of a tray with four pitchers sitting on it.   
 IT may be necessary to premise that a choice should be made of those things
most likely to agree with the patient, and, as invalids require variety to
indulge their appetite, frequent changes should be provided, but great
simplicity observed in the preparation. Perhaps jellies and meat
broths, together with various kinds of farinaceous food, are the
lightest on the stomach, as well as, generally speaking, the most
nutritious. 
 
 A Good Jelly. --Soak twelve shanks of
mutton four hours, then brush and scour them very clean. Lay them in a
saucepan with three blades of mace, an onion, twenty
Jamaica and thirty or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and a crust of bread made very brown by toasting. Pour three
quarts of water to them, and set them on a hot hearth close covered; let
them simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then strain it off, and put
it in a cold place. 
 This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if approved, for
flavor. It is a remarkably good thing for people who are weak. 
 Sheep's heads and trotters are also good restoratives; savory
jelly may also be made in the same manner, without lemon,
wine, or sugar, but flavored with ham and
spice.  
 
 Dr. Ratcliff's Pork Jelly. --Take a leg
of well-fed pork, just as cut up; beat it, and break the bone.
Set it over a gentle fire with three gallons of water, and simmer to
one. Let half an ounce of mace and the same of nutmegs stew in
it. Strain through a fine sieve. When cold, take off the fat. Give a
coffee-cupful the first and last thing, and at noon, putting salt to
taste. 
 Lambs' feet are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned;
lay them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able
to draw out the leg-bone with facility; then put them in a stewpan (two
would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have
mixed smoothly a table-spoonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of
salt; place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, then
add a small onion, with celery, parsley, and
parsnip; boil gently for two hours, and when done, serve plain upon a
plate, or with a little melted butter and parsley poured over. By
using a little white broth from any meat, instead of
water, you make a delicious soft soup, which may be partaken of
freely. 
 Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a
double proportion of every thing, and stewing them double the time; they are
served precisely the same. 
 
 Real Essence of Beef. --Take one pound of
beefsteak, cut it into thin slices, which scrape fine; put it into a
stewpan, and stir over the fire five or ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed
through, then add half a pint of water, cover the stewpan as tightly as
possible, and let it remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty
minutes; then pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to
extract all the essence. 
 
 Strengthening Jelly. --Take two pounds of
gravy-beef, cut into small pieces; put the pieces into a jar, cover
close, and stand the jar in a saucepan of water; let it simmer from four
to six hours. This I have made from either beef or veal. I have
found it invaluable in cases of sickness, and it will be found that the real
essence of the meat is extracted. 
 
 A Clear Broth that will keep long. -- Put the
mouse-round of beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and a few shanks of
mutton, into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust;
bake till the beef is done enough for eating with only as much
water as will cover it. When the broth is cold, cover it close,
and keep it in a cool place. When it is to be used, give what flavor may be
best liked. Cowheels make good broth. 
 
 For a quick-made Broth,  take a bone or
two of a neck or loin of mutton, take off the fat and
skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover, with
three-quarters of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten
and cut in thin bits; put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if
approved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very quickly; skim it; take off
the cover if likely to be too weak, else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient
for the whole process. 
 
 Liebig's Beef Tea. --Chop a pound of lean
beef as fine as for sausage-meat-- mix with a pint of cold
water--put it over a slow fire--when it has boiled five minutes, strain
through a coarse cloth. Salt to taste. 
 
 Chicken Broth. --Boil a chicken in a
quart of water till about three parts cooked, or about a quarter of an
hour; remove the skin and the rump, and put it into the
water it was boiled in, with a slice of onion, ten white
peppercorns, and a blade of mace; then simmer until it has a good
flavor. Beat a quarter of an ounce of blanched sweet almonds with a
teaspoonful of water, till of a  good
consistence and fine, add this paste to the broth, simmer for a
minute, then remove, strain, and set aside to get cold. When quite cold, remove
the fat, and warm the broth again; season with salt, and
serve in a broth basin, with toast dice on a plate. 
 
 Panada  is merely a preparation of bread made
up in various ways. 
 
 To make it in fire minutes. --Set a little
water on the fire with a glass of white wine, some sugar,
and a scrape of nut-meg and lemon-peel: meanwhile grate some
crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on
the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a
proper thickness just to drink, take it off. 
  Or: --Put to the water a bit of
lemon-peel, mix the crumbs in, and, when nearly boiled enough, put
some lemon or orange syrup. Observe to boil all the ingredients, for, if
any be added after, the panada will break and not jelly. 
 
 Chicken Panada. --Boil a chicken till
about three parts ready in a quart of water; take off the skin,
cut the white meat off when cold, and put into a marble mortar: pound it
to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, season
with salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of
lemon-peel. Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you
like; it should be such as you can drink, though tolerably thick. 
 This conveys great nourishment in a small compass. 
 
 Sippets. --On an extremely hot plate put two or three
sippets of bread, and pour over them some gravy from beef,
mutton, or veal, with which no butter has been mixed.
Sprinkle a little salt over. 
 
 Port Wine Jelly. --Melt in a little warm
water an ounce of isinglass; stir it into a pint of port
wine, adding two ounces of sugar-candy, an ounce of gum
arabic, and a nutmeg grated. Mix it all well, and boil it ten
minutes; or till every thing is thoroughly dissolved. Then strain it through
muslin, and set it away to get cold. For rice jelly, having picked and
washed a quarter of a pound of rice, mix it with half a pound of loaf
sugar, and just sufficient water to cover it. Boil it till it
becomes a glutinous mass; then strain it; season it with whatever may be
thought proper, and then let it stand to cool. 
 
 Caudle  is made in various ways. Make a fine smooth
gruel of half-grits; strain it when boiled well; stir it at different
times till cold. When to be used, add sugar, wine, and lemonpeel,
with nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the
wine; others like lemon-juice. 
 
 Another. --Into a pint of fine gruel, not thick, put,
while it is boiling-hot, the yolk of an egg beaten with sugar,
and mixed with a large spoonful of cold water, a glass of wine,
and nutmeg. Mix by degrees. It is very agreeable and nourishing. Some
like gruel with a glass of table-beer, sugar, &c., with or
without a teaspoonful of brandy. 
  Dr. Boerhaave's Sweet Buttermilk. --
Take the milk from the cow into a small churn; in ten minutes
begin, and churn till flakes of butter swim about thick, and the
milk appears thin and blue; strain it through a sieve. It should form
the patient's drink, with biscuits, rusk, ripe and dried fruits,
&c. 
 
 Flour Caudle. --Into five large spoonfuls of
water rub smooth one dessert-spoonful of fine flour. Set over the
fire five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two bits of sugar into
it; the moment it boils pour into it the flour and water, and
stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes. It is a nourishing and gently
astringent food. This is an excellent food for babies who have weak
bowels.  
 
 Apple Paste. --Pare your apples and cut
them down. Weigh them, and allow an equal quantity of white sugar; put
them into a jar, and boil till quite soft. Boil your sugar to a
syrup, then drop in the apples with a teacupful of
marmalade and a little grated ginger; let them simmer ten
minutes. Wet your shapes with spirits, and dish them. They will turn out
firm, and keep for years. 
 The apples must be put into cold water as
they are pared.  The proportion of water is a breakfast cupful to
two pounds of sugar. 
 
 To Bake Apples. --Sweet apples properly
baked and eaten with milk are excellent. The best method of baking
tart apples is, to take the fairest and largest in size, wipe them clean
if thin skinned, and pare them if the skin is thick and tough. Cut out
the largest portion of the core from one end, and place the fruit on
well glazed earthen dishes or pans, with the end which has been cored upwards,
and fill the cavity with refined powdered sugar. Then place them in the
oven or other apparatus for baking until sufficiently cooked. Take them out and
when cold they are perfectly delicious. 
 
 Apple Tapioca (a new receipt for
invalids). --Pare, core, and quarter eight apples; take half a
spoonful of tapioca; put it to soak and swell all night in the
water; put in half a teacupful of white sugar, and a little
lemon-peel; put this into a stewpan and let the tapioca simmer
ten minutes, then put in the apples and stew ten minutes more. When the
tapioca is clear, it will form a jelly around the
apples. 
 
 Chicken Jelly. --For chicken jelly take
a large chicken, cut it up into very small pieces, bruise the
bones, and put the whole into a stone jar with a cover that will make it
water-tight. Set the jar in a large kettle of boiling water, and
keep it boiling for four hours. Then strain off the liquid, and season it
slightly with salt, pepper, and mace; or with
loaf-sugar and lemon-juice, according to the taste of the
person for whom it is intended. Return the fragments of the chicken to
the jar, and set it again in a kettle of boiling water. You will find
that you can collect nearly as much jelly by the second boiling. This
jelly may be made of an old fowl. 
 
 Baked Milk. --Mix new milk with
buttermilk, in the proportion of a pint of the former to a wineglassful
of the latter. Let it stand in a covered jar, before the fire, all night; in
the morning it will be as thick as clotted cream. Pour from one jar to
another till it is again of the consistency of new milk; put it into a
stone bottle, tightly corked; add a few lumps of white sugar; let it
again stand before the fire, (not too near,) for five or six hours, it will
then be ready to drink. Care must be taken in opening the bottle, as it
sometimes effervesces. Besides forming a very wholesome and strengthening
drink, it is a most delicious and refreshing beverage in summer. Invalids
should take about a pint a day. If it is at all acid, it has not been properly
made, and should not be taken. 
 
 Asses' Milk  far surpasses any imitatation of
it that can be made. It should be milked into a glass that is kept warm by
being in a basin of hot water. 
 The fixed air that it contains gives some people a pain in the stomach. At
first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken with it, but should only be put
in the moment it is to be swallowed. The animal should always be milked at the
door. 
 
 Artificial Asses' Milk. --Mix two spoonfuls of
boiling water, two of milk, and an egg well beaten;
sweeten with pound-ed white sugarcandy. This may be taken twice or
thrice a day. 
 
 Wine Whey. --Stir into a pint of boiling  milk a couple of glasses of wine. Let
it boil a minute, then take it from the fire, and let it remain till the curd
has settled; then turn off the whey, and sweeten it with white
sugar. 
 
 Toast Water. --Pare the crust off a thin slice
of stale bread, toast it brown upon both sides, doing it equally
and slowly, that it may harden without being burnt; put it into a jug, and pour
upon it boiling water; cover the jug with a saucer, and set it in a cool
place.    An illustration of a pitcher and two bowls with handles and a decorative motif.  
  Rice Gruel. --Put a large spoonful of unground
rice into six gills of boiling water, with a stick of
cinnamon or mace. Strain it when boiled soft, and add half a pint
of new milk; put in a tea-spoonful of salt, and boil it a few
minutes longer. If you wish to make the gruel of rice flour, mix a
table-spoonful of it smoothly, with three of cold water, and stir it
into a quart of boiling water. Let it boil five or six minutes, stirring
it constantly. Season it with salt, a little butter, and add, if
you like, nutmeg and white sugar. 
 
 Water Gruel. --Mix a couple of table-spoonfuls
of Indian meal with one of wheat flour, and sufficient cold
water to make a thick batter. If the gruel is liked thick, stir it into a
pint of boiling water--if liked thin, more water will be
necessary. Season the gruel with salt, and let it boil six or eight
minutes, stirring it frequently--then take it from the fire, put in a piece of
butter, of the size of a walnut, and pepper to the taste.
Turn it on toasted bread, cut in small pieces. 
 
 Molasses Posset. --Put into a saucepan a pint
of the Lest West India molasses, a teaspoonful of powdered white
ginger, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Set it on hot
coals, and simmer it slowly for half an hour, stirring it frequently. Do
not let it come to a boil. Then stir in the juice of two lemons, or
two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; cover the pan, and let it stand by the
fire five minutes longer. This is good for a cold. Some of it may be taken warm
at once, and the remainder kept at hand for occasional use. 
 
 Wine Posset. --Boil some slices of white
bread in a pint of milk; when soft take it off the fire, and grate
in some nutmeg and a little sugar; pour it out, put half a pint
of sweet wine into it by degrees, and serve it with toasted
bread. 
 
 Balm Mint, and other Teas. --These are
simple infusions, the strength of which can only be regulated by the taste.
They are made by putting either the fresh or the dried plants into boiling
water in a covered vessel, which should be placed near the fire for an
hour. The young shoots both of balm and of mint are to be
preferred, on account of their strong aromatic qualities. These infusions may
be drunk freely in feverish and in various other complaints, in which diluents
are recommended. Mint tea made with the fresh leaves, is useful in
allaying nausea and vomiting. 
 
 Tapioca Jelly. --Take four table-spoonfuls of
tapioca--rinse it thoroughly, then soak it five hours, in cold
water enough to cover it. Seta pint of cold water on the fire--when
it boils, mash and stir up the tapioca that is in water, and mix
it with the boiling water. Let the whole simmer gently, with a stick of
cinnamon or mace. When thick and clear, mix a couple of
table-spoonfuls of white sugar, with half a table-spoonful of
lemon-juice, and half a glass of white wine--stir it into the
jelly; if not sweet enough, add  more
sugar, and turn the jelly into cups. 
 
 Mulled Wine. --Boil a pint of wine with
nutmeg, cloves, and sugar, serve it with slices of
toasted bread; or, beat up the yolks of four eggs with a little
cold wine, and mix them carefully with the hot wine, pour it
backwards and forwards till it looks fine, heat it again over the fire till it
is tolerably thick, pour it backwards and forwards, and serve with toasted
bread as above. 
 
 Or, --Boil some spice in a little water
till the flavor is extracted, then add a pint of port wine, with some
sugar and nutmeg. 
 
 Brandy Mixture. --Mix a gill of brandy,
and the same quantity of cinnamon water, with the yolks of two
eggs, half an ounce of powdered white sugar, and two drops of oil
of cinnamon. This is a valuable restorative in cases of extreme exhaustion,
given at intervals of ten to fifteen minutes, in doses of from one to three
table-spoonfuls. 
 
 Sago Gruel. --Macerate an ounce (or a
table-spoonful) of sago in a pint of water for two hours, then
boil for a quarter of an hour, taking care to stir it well; sweeten with
sugar, and add lemon-juice, nutmeg, or ginger,
and white wine if allowed. 
 
 Caudle, York. --Take a pint of new milk, turn
it with wine, then strain, and put it into a saucepan with two blades of
mace, three slices of white bread, and a little grated
nutmeg. Boil over a slow fire, then beat the yolks of four eggs,
and the whites of two; stir into the caudle to thicken, taking care to
stir one way for fear of curdling it; sweeten to taste, and serve warm. 
 
 Flax-seed Lemonade. --Boil some
flax-seed in water until it becomes a thick syrup. To a
table-spoonful of flax-seed allow about two tumblers full of
water. Strain it through a cloth and mix with a quarter of a pound of
white sugar. Then stir in a little lemon juice. This miture has
frequently been very serviceable in relieving a cold. A little of it may be
taken whenever the cough is troublesome. A little gum arabic added to
the syrup will be an improvement. 
 
 Cocoa. --To two ounces of cocoa allow a
quart of water. Put it in a saucepan and let it boil slowly for about an
hour. The cocoa shells boiled in this manner will make a very pleasant
beverage, and will not be so rich as the ground cocoa. 
 
 Barley Water. --Wash carefully two ounces of
barley and put it into a saucepan with a quart of water and a few
raisins. Let it boil until the liquid is about half diminished. Sweeten
it and drink it hot. A little lemon-peel or some liquor-ice root put
in with the barley instead of or with the raisins, and some
sliced figs, may please some tastes. When only a drink is required, it
is better to strain the liquid; but the boiled barley with a little
sugar will make a very pleasing variety for an invalid to eat instead of
rice. 
 
 Ground Rice Milk. --Boil together two
table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a pint of milk. Sweeten it
according to your taste, adding the juice of half a lemon. Let
the whole boil half an hour over a moderate fire. Eat it warm. 
 
 Compound Camomile Tea. --Twenty camomile
flowers, half the thin peel of a lemon, four cloves: pour on
them a coffee cup of boiling water, cover and let them stand all
night. Strain the liquor in the morning. A wine glass full may be taken
a little before breakfast. Dr. Maton always recommended this, with a
teaspoonful of salvolatile for indigestion. 
 
 Elder Flower Tea. --Infuse the dried flowers
as common tea is made. A little acid with sugar will make the
taste pleasant. (To promote perspiration.)  
 
 Dandelion and Parsley Tea. --Wash and
scrape six dandelion roots and six of parsley; pour on them a
pint of boiling water; let it infuse three hours before the fire. A
little salt or saltpetre may be added. (Lady Cush prescribes this
in dropsy; it acts on the kidneys.)  
 The flowers of any plant should be dried in every case. 
 
 Rice Water. --Boil a quarter of a pound of
rice in three pints of water till soft as a paste,
skimming it well. Strain the liquor, and sweeten it with sugar or
honey. Apples or lemon peel may be boiled with the
rice, or lemon juice added. It is an excellent drink in cases of
diarrhoea. 
 
 Cream of Tartar Water. --Put a large spoonful
of cream of tartar into a quart pitcher, with an ounce of gum
arabic and thin lemon peel. Pour boiling water on it, and let
it stand some hours; sweeten to taste. 
 
 Imperial  may be made with two ounces cream of
tartar and the juice and peel of two lemons; put in a jar
with seven quarts of boiling water. When cold, half a pint of
spirits may be added to keep it. Sweeten to taste and bottle it. 
 
 Marsh Mallow Emulsion. --Slice the dried roots
of marsh mallows, and boil four ounces with one and a half ounce chopped
raisins in a quart of water. When it is boiled till there is a
good sediment, strain it, and sweeten with water. Add water to
taste. 
 
 Linseed Emulsion. --One ounce linseed, two drachms
liquorice root sliced and bruised; a pint of boiling water. Let
it stand four hours by the fire; then strain it. 
 
 Rennet Whey. --Infuse a piece of the
skin in a little boiling water, as for mak-ing cheese; let
it stand an hour or two; then put a table-spoonful to three pints of new
milk, warmed; cover with a cloth, and leave it until the curd is thick.
Press out and use the whey. 
 
 Iceland Moss Jelly. --Wash and bruise Iceland
moss, and soak it all night; dry and boil it--putting an ounce to a quart--till
reduced to one-half the quantity of water; strain it through a sieve.
Take it with milk or wine, or flavored to taste. Carageen, or
Irish moss jelly can be made the same way. 
 
 Blancmange. --Take gelatine, or isin-glass,
two ounces to one and a half pints water; dissolve it, add a pint of
milk, and strain it; flavor and sweeten it, and let it boil up; then
turn it into a mould. 
 
 Rice Blancmange. --Boil as much ground
rice in a pint of milk as will make it thick enough to turn out
of a mould, sweetening and flavoring it. A sauce can be added of
milk, cream, or custard. 
 
 Somersetshire Fromity. --Wash a quart of
wheat, and boil it soft; add by degrees two quarts new milk; boil
it till soft and mixed; then add the yolks of a few eggs, well
beaten, nutmeg, sugar, and a little ginger, with
currants or chopped raisins, if approved for the invalid. 
 
 Baked Pears. --Put into a pint of water
some mace, cinnamon, and a few cloves; boil them; add a
pint of white wine, and the juice of two oranges, and
sweeten with loaf sugar. Cut some baking pears into halves or
quarters; put them into the syrup, and then into a moderately heated
oven, or a stewpan over the fire. Cover and cook them till soft. Serve them
with the liquor. They will keep in jars. Pears are excellent baked in
molasses with a little water added. 
 
 Millet Pudding. --Wash the
millet;simmer two table-spoonfuls with a little butter in a pint
and a half of milk. Two, or three beaten eggs may be added.
The  sugar and flavoring must be put in
while the milk is boiling. Bake or boil it. 
 
 Ground Rice Pudding. --One and a half pints
new milk, with flavoring of coriander seeds, cinnamon,
lemon-peel, and sugar. Boil a few minutes, strain it upon two
ounces ground rice and boil twelve minutes. Add not quite an ounce of
fresh butter, a little salt, and three beaten eggs. Bake
in a dish or boil it. 
 Barley flour may be substituted for the rice. 
 
 Calf's Feet Pudding. --Calf's
feet minced, taking off the brown and fat, one and a half
suet minced, yolks of six and whites of four eggs, the
crumb of a roll, a little sugar, and a few chopped raisins. Add
milk enough to moisten it, and boil it eight or nine hours. Serve with
any sauce. 
 
 Marrow Pudding. --One pint milk boiled
with cinnamon and lemon-peel, with a pinch of salt,
quarter of a pound beef's marrow minced fine, slices of
citron and orange peel, grated nutmeg, half a pound sponge
cake, a little sugar, a glass of wine or brandy, and two
eggs. Bake it. 
 
 Dr. Jophson's Soup. --Cut into pieces a pound of
lean veal, the same of beef, with water to cover them, in
an earthen jar. Tie it down, add salt, and simmer in a water bath
twenty-four hours. 
 
 Essence of Meat, or Glaize. --Put two pounds
meat, of bird or animal, into a bottle, and that into a pan of
water. Let it boil fifteen minutes. Strain the liquor that comes out. It
will keep in a skin, and can be diluted for broths or gravies or
soups. 
 
 Marrow Toast. --Boiled marrow spread on
toast with a little salt, is said to be good in allaying vomiting
from irritation, after the operation of an emetic, or any other cause. 
 
 Kedgeree. --Boil soft a tea-cupful of rice;
chop a boiled whitefish to pieces, take out the bones; add the
rice, with three ounces of butter. Stir it on the fire, and add
salt and cayenne pepper, with chopped hard boiled eggs.
Serve it dry and hot. 
 
 Ground Rice Paste. --Boil a quarter of a pound
in a little water, strain and beat it in a mortar with one egg, a
small lump of butter and a pinch of salt; mould the paste
as for tarts, and bake sweetmeats in it. 
 
 Arrow-Root Transparent Jelly. --Put a
good teaspoonful of arrow-root into a basin, which mix smoothly with two
spoonfuls of water, then add enough boiling water to make it
about the consistency of starch, stirring all the time; pour it into a
stewpan, and stir over the fire until it has boiled two minutes; add a little
cream, a small glass of wine, and a little sugar, and
serve. 
 
 Lemonade. --Pour one quart of boiling water on
the rinds of six lemons, and let it stand for three or four
hours; add the juice of the lemons with three-quarters of a pound of
sugar; simmer it well and skim it; then add another quart of boiling
water. Either run it through a jellybag, or mix a glass of
calf's-foot jelly, which will make it rich. 
 
 Tamarinds, or Cranberry Juice,  with
double the quantity of water, also form a pleasant drink for an invalid,
when approaching to convalescence. 
 
 Almond Water. --Blanch five ounces of sweet
and two of bitter almonds, pound them in a mortar, adding a few drops of
water occasionally, to prevent their becoming oily, set a pint of
syrup to boil, and throw in the mashed almonds; boil all together
a minute, then set it at the corner to simmer for a quarter of an hour; it
is then ready to pass through a fine sieve for use. When required, add any
quantity of cold water, according to taste or direction, to make it
palatable. 
 
 Lait de Poule,  (French remedy for  colds.)--This may be made from any broth. Break a
fresh egg, separate the white from the yolk, put the
yolk in a basin, with a wine-glassful of good cream or
milk, which mix well with a spoon; have half a pint of broth

boiling, which pour gradually over the egg and cream, mixing it
(as you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon; it is then ready, and ought
to be taken when going to bed. 
 
 Sweet Lait de Poule. --This is also reckoned very
good for a cold. Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two
tea-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, part of the rind of a fresh
lemon grated; beat them well together for ten minutes, then pour boiling
water gradually over, keeping it stirred until the cup is nearly full.
Drink this very hot when in bed. 
 
 Sago Fruit Pudding. --A correspondent of the
Cottage Gardener says: 
 "Being forbidden the use of pastry, I use rice and sago as
substitutes, in the following manner:--Boil a teacupful of sago as thick
as it can be made to boil without burning: put about five table-spoonfuls in
the bottom of a quart basin; then a layer of baked fruit of any sort
(sweetened), and fill the basin to the brim with alternate layers of
fruit and sago. Put it in a cool place for some little time, and
it will become solid. It is best when made shortly after breakfast, and allowed
to stand till wanted, to warm either in an oven, over boiling water, or
before the fire with a plate turned over it, for dinner. The sago boils
best when soaked in cold water for a few hours before using; rice
is used in exactly the same way. By way of change, I sometimes line a basin
with the rice or sago, when very thick, and spread a thick layer
of the same over a large dinner plate. When cold and stiff, I turn the basin
over it, and with a knife cut the sago round the edge of the basin; the
parings I put in the bottom of the basin, and then fill with baked
fruit, after which I put the sago in the plate on the top of the
basin, to act as a cover. The smooth side must be upwards. Eaten with mock
cream, made as follows, it is delicious:--Pour half a pint of boiling
milk on a teaspoonful of arrowroot, well mixed with a small
quantity of milk; stir the mixture well, and have the white of an
egg well beaten, and when about half cold add it, and placing the whole
over the fire, stir till it nearly boils, then strain for use." 
 
 Tapioca Milk. --Soak an ounce of
tapioca in a pint of cold water for half an hour, pour off the
water, and add a pint and a half of good milk; boil slowly until
the tapioca is dissolved, then add sugar, nutmeg, and a
little white wine, if not prohibited by the medical attendant. 
 
 Italian Cheese. --To a pint of scalded
cream, whipped very smooth, add the juice of three lemons, and
the rind of two--sugar to taste; let it stand for half an hour,
then whip till it is very thick, tie it in a thin cloth, or a tin with
holes in it; let it drain till next day, then turn out. 
 
 Soyer's Curry Custard. --Break three whole
eggs in a basin, and beat them up, add a quart of milk, a little
salt, a very little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of curry
paste; bake in a dish or basin. This is very light and nutritious. 
 For those who can afford it, roast a leg of mutton, and when nearly
done put a hot dish under it, and with a sharp knife make several deep
incisions in every part of it; let it remain two minutes longer, that all the
gravy may fall into the dish; pour into a cup, take off the fat,
and give to the patient as may be required; the mutton will do for
curry or hash for the family. This may be called 
 gigot de mouton sacrifié;  but when life may
almost depend upon this extravagance as you may call it, the expense must not
be thought of.  
 
 Decoction of Iceland Liverwort. --An ounce of
liverwort must be carefully freed from the moss, fragments of stalks, and
particles of dirt, with which it is frequently mixed, by rubbing it between the
hands in cold water. Then steep it for two hours, in such quantity of
cold water as will completely cover it; after which it must be bruised,
pounded, or cut, and the steeping continued for three or four days longer, in a
fresh quantity of boiling water, which when the steeping is finished,
must be strained off by pressure. The liverwort is then to be put into a quart
of fresh water, and kept boiling until the fluid be reduced two-thirds,
or to a pint and a quarter. When strained and allowed to cool, it forms a thick
mucilage, free from any bitter taste, and may be rendered very palatable by the
addition of sugar and lemon-juice; or by white wine, in
those cases which permit the use of wine. 
 This decoction of liverwort is an excellent demulcent nutriment, in
consumption, dysentery, and in convalescence from acute diseases, and
particularly after the whooping cough, in which case the bitter need not be
completely removed, as it tends to invigorate the digestive organs. 
 
 Vermicelli au Lait. --Boil a pint of
milk, and when boiling, add sufficient vermicelli to make it
about the proper thickness; it may be served quite plain if required, or
seasoned with sugar.   FOOD AND COOKERY FOR CHILDREN. 
 
 The kinds of food  to be given to very young children
should be of the simplest description: besides cow's milk, diluted with
one-third part of water, 
 arrow-root  and milk; 
 pearl sago  boiled in water till
perfectly soft, and thinned with new milk; 
 rusks; biscuit powder; flour 
previously boiled like a pudding in a basin till it is formed into a
hard ball, from which portions can be grated into milk, and
boiled in it till it thickens the milk, are the chief ingredients used
as food for infants. 
 
 Rice, barley, and farina
gruels,  are also used with advantage; and as a change in the diet of
children is advisable when they are occasionally indisposed, these kinds of
gruel may be found useful varieties in the food of children. 
 Food which contains milk should never be warmed over and over again,
as is sometimes done; nor should it be suffered to remain, when cold, in metal
utensils; if intended for future use, it should be put into earthen-ware
basins, and set in a cold place; but no food thus set by for another day should
have milk put into it.    Nurse Lamp, with Tea Kettle to keep children's food warm.  An illustration of a tea kettle and a nurse's lamp.   
 
 The nutriment of children,  after the completion of
their first year and a half, it will be necessary to increase in solidity, and,
if their appetite seems to demand it, in quantity also. Their teeth begin now
to aid them in masticating food, their limbs become firmer, and carry their
bodily exertions often to a great extent; the degree of exercise which healthy
children voluntarily give themselves, stimulates the digestive organs, enabling
them to receive and act upon more solid nutriment. Having previously had animal
food three or four times a week, children may, in the second year of their
lives, safely eat it once  every day--meats
being chosen for them that are tender and nutritious. 
 Roast beef; mutton,  either boiled,
roasted, or broiled; 
 chickens,  some kinds of 
 fish,  well-boiled 
 vegetables,  such as 
 brocoli, turnips, potatoes  (the latter are
best for them when mashed with hot milk and a little salt);
simple compounds of egg and milk; 
 fruits,  baked or boiled; 
 bread  well made and baked, with small
portions of butter; these, with milk for breakfast and supper,
with water as beverage, are the chief articles of wholesome food for
children as long as they continue under nursery management. 
 
 The species of food we would not give them consists 
of salted meats (beef, pork, or bacon); of rich
stews, ragouts, and soups; of fried fish, of pastry and confectionery
generally; of cheese; and of beverages, tea, coffee,
beer, and wine. Of the two last mentioned, beer and
wine, we may remark that, in cases of delicate health, they may be
advantageously allowed; but they should always be given under medical
direction, for the stimulus of fermented or spirituous liquors is not in every
case of debility beneficial; sometimes the reverse; neither ought children to
be allowed to drink much at a time of any liquid, however mild and innocent it
may be. Too much liquid has a tendency to create flatulency, and to distend the
bowels. It has been said that parents accustoming their children to drink
water only, bestow a fortune upon them of the value of which they will
be sensible all the days of their life. 
 Children's meat should be minced as small as possible. If too much
trouble is left to their feeble power of masticating, they will shun it by
swallowing their food unmasticated. For children whose digestion is weak, it
may even be desirable to have their meat pounded. 
 
 French Pap. --Put a table-spoonful of flour
into a pap saucepan, to which add by degrees two gills of milk, mixing
it into a very smooth batter with a wooden spoon; place the saucepan upon the
fire, let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred the whole time, or it is
liable to burn or become brown; then add about half an ounce of sugar
and a little salt, put it into a basin, and it is ready for use. A
little butter is also very good in it. It may be made with dry rusk or
cracker, scalded merely in water, and beaten to a pulp
with a little sugar. 
 
 Infant's Food. --Take a pound of the best
flour, tie it very 
 tightly  in a strong cloth, and put it into a pan of
boiling water (in which put a plate to prevent the cloth sticking to the
bottom of the pan). Boil it for three hours without allowing it to go off the
boil--when 
 coldish  untie the cloth, and scrape off the outside
of the ball: when to be used, grate down the quantity required and break it
with cold water; boil 
 four  or 
 five  minutes 
 only,  and sweeten to the taste. Flour
prepared in this way is confidently recommended by an experienced sick nurse as
a soft and nutritious food for the youngest infant, and will keep for a month
or more in its hard compact state. Milk may be added when about
to be eaten, if wished. 
 
 Semoulina. --Semoulina is very delicate and
glutinous; it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids
or children, of easy digestion, and having also the advantage of being
tolerably cheap and quickly cooked. 
 
 Arrowroot. --When broth is boiling, put
two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot into a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill
of cold broth, or half ditto of water; then pour it into your
boiling broth, which keep stirring with a spoon; let it simmer ten
minutes, and it is ready for use. 
 
 Cakes for Children. --Sugar and egg,
browned before the fire, or dropped as fritters into a hot frying-pan, without
fat, will make them a nourishing delicacy.  
 
 Rice Pudding with Fruit. --In a pint of
new milk put two large spoonfuls of rice well washed; then add
two apples, pared and quartered, or a few currants or
raisins. Simmer slowly till the rice is very soft, then add one
egg, beaten, to bind it. Serve with cream and sugar. 
 
 To prepare Fruit for Children. --A far more
wholesome way than in pies or pud-dings, is to put apples sliced, or
plums, currants, gooseberries, &c., into a stone jar,
and sprinkle among them as much sugar as necessary. Set the jar in an
oven or on a hearth, with a teacupful of water to prevent the
fruit from burning; or put the jar into a saucepan of water till
its contents be perfectly done. Slices of bread or some rice may
be put into the jar, to eat with the fruit. 
 
 Rice and Apples. --Core as many nice
apples as will fill the dish; boil them in light syrup; prepare a
quarter of a pound of rice in milk, with sugar and
salt; put some of the rice in the dish, and put in the
apples, and fill up the intervals with rice, and bake it in the
oven till it is a fine color. 
 
 A nice Apple Cake for Children. --Grate some
stale bread, and slice about double the quantity of apples;
butter a mould, and line it with sugar paste, and strew in some
crumbs, mixed with a little sugar; then lay in apples with a few
bits of butter over them, and so continue till the dish is full; cover
it with crumbs, or prepared rice; season with cinnamon and
sugar. Bake it well. Fruits that have seeds are much
healthier than stone fruits. But all fruits are better, for very
young children, if baked or cooked in some manner, und eaten with bread.
The French always eat bread with raw fruit. Apples and
winter pears are very excellent food for children, indeed, for almost
any person in health; but best when eaten at breakfast or dinner. If taken late
in the evening fruit often proves injurious. The old saying--
apples are 
 gold in the morning, silver at noon, and lead at
night,  is pretty near the truth. Both apples and pears are
often good and nutritious when baked or stewed, for those delicate
constitutions that cannot bear raw fruit. Much of the
fruit gathered when unripe, might be rendered fit for food by preserving
it in sugar. 
 
 Ripe Currants  are excellent food for
children. Mash the fruit, sprinkle with sugar, and with good
bread let them eat of this fruit freely. 
 
 Blackberry Jam. --Gather the fruit in
dry weather; allow half a pound of good brown sugar to every pound of
fruit; boil the whole together gently for an hour, or till the
blackberries are soft, stirring and mashing them well. Preserve
it like any other jam, and it will be found very useful in families,
particularly for children--regulating their bowels, and enabling you to
dispense with cathartics. It may be spread on bread, or on puddings,
instead of butter: and even when the blackberries are bought it
is cheaper than butter. In the country every family should
preserve, at least, half a peck of blackberries. 
 
 Bread and Milk. --Cut about two ounces
of any white bread into small thin slices, and put them into a small
basin or a large breakfast cup. In a little saucepan (only used for that
purpose) have half a pint of milk; when upon the point of boiling, pour
over the bread; cover over the cup five minutes, and it is ready for
use. 
 
 Porridge. --When children are delicate, porridge is
often preferable to bread and milk. Put two table-spoonfuls of
grits or oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which moisten with
half a pint of milk; let it boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add
a small piece of butter and a little sugar, and it is ready for
use.  
 
 Meats for Children. --Mutton,
lamb, and poultry, are the best. Birds and the white meat of
fowls, are the most delicate food of this kind that can be given. These
meats should be slowly cooked, and no gravy, if made rich with
butter, should be eaten by a young child. Never give children
hard, tough, half cooked meats, of any kind. 
 
 Vegetables for Children, Eggs, &c. --
Their rice ought to be cooked in no more water than is necessary
to swell it; their apples roasted, or stewed with no more water
than is necessary to steam them; their vegetables so well cooked as to make
them require little butter, and less digestion; their eggs boiled
slow and soft. The boiling of their milk ought to be directed by the
state of their bowels: if flatulent or bilious, a very little
curry-powder may be given in their vegetables with good effect--such as
turmeric and the warm seeds (not hot peppers), are
particularly useful in such cases. 
 
 Potatoes and Peas. --Potatoes, particularly
some kinds, are not easily digested by children; but this is easily remedied by
mashing them very fine, and seasoning them with sugar and a
little milk. When peas are dressed for children, let them be
seasoned with mint and sugar, which will take off the flatulency.
If they are old, let them be pulped, as the skins are perfectly
indigestible by children's or weak stomachs. Never give them vegetables less
stewed than would pulp through a colander. 
 
 Children's Diet for the day (Soyer). -- 
 Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, as
follows throughout the week: roast mutton and apple pudding;
roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled
mutton with turnips, after which rice or vermicelli
pudding 5 occasionally with beef, suet dumplings, plain and with
currants in them, or pease pudding; or if unwell, a little
veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea. When in business, the
first three years the children used to dine with us at one, at a side-table
with their nurse. They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their
plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after
which, three times a week, plain rice, bread, or other plain
pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart; and, at five o'clock, their
bread and milk again, previous to going to bed. 
 But I should recommend for nurserymaid and all: 
 First, about two pounds of mutton, well cooked, but with the real
gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one hour before
a moderate fire; dredge it ten minutes before being clone; when taken up and in
the dish, sprinkle a little salt over the meat, and pour over
three or four spoonfuls of hot water to make a little light
gravy. 
 Or, a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose;
after which a very plain currant pudding; or, occasionally, a little
pickled pork, with pease pudding; or roast pork, with
baked apples; and now and then a little salt beef, but very well
boiled, with suet dumplings; and occasionally, for change, either
bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings; in case of
illness, and with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or
chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c.   SAVORY
DISHES FOR BREAKFAST. 
 
 Grillades. --Perhaps there is no better grill for
breakfast than a cold blade-bone of mutton, off which the greater part
of the meat has been already cut. The remaining parts should then be
scored, and the gashes filled with a mixture of mustard, cayenne,
common pepper, and salt, as for a devil; it should then be put
upon  the gridiron, and well browned, but not
burnt. It may be sent to table dry, without any sauce, or served with
gravy mixed with capers. 
 The bones of 
 cold fowl  of all kinds are also frequently
brought thus to breakfast. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. --Split it open,
pepper it only on the inside, broil and serve it with a very little
butter, and accompanied with broiled mushrooms. 
 
 Kabobs. --Put thin slices of well-seasoned
kidney and bacon, with beef or mutton also if you
please, upon skewers. Have ready fine bread-crumbs, with a slight
grating of lemon, brush them over with egg, and roll them into
the crumbs. Hang up the skewers to roast, and put a slice of toast under
to secure the gravy: when served, carefully remove the skewers, and
place the "kabobs" on the toast; but, if only a quantity sufficient to
help one person be put on each skewer, then do not remove them. 
 If, instead of meat, an oyster be put between each slice of
bacon and kidney, it will be found very superior. 
 
 Dried Salmon  is likewise a good relish; and
fresh 
 mackerel,  split open and broiled. 
 
 German Toast. --Take the remainder of any
fricassee or ragout; any quantity will do; chop it fine, add a little chop- ped
parsley, and a little bit of shalot or chive: mix it up with one
or two eggs beaten, according to the quantity. Put the whole with its
gravy into a stewpan, and let it reduce and thicken on the fire. Let it
remain until it be cold, then cut pieces of bread, toast them:
lay the mixture thickly upon them. Boil an egg hard, cut it into small
pieces, and stick them on the top; brush the whole with egg beaten up,
sift bread-crumbs over, and bake them in the oven; squeeze a little
lemon-juice on the top. This makes also a good corner dish for
dinner. 
 
 Vegetable Toast. --Take any stewed vegetable,
and make it into a purée. Add a little more seasoning, mix it up
with the yolk of an egg, and, if too thin, reduce and thicken it over
the fire, then spread it upon toast, brush it over with beaten
eggs, and bread-crumbs or vermicelli, and fry or bake
them. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. --Make a well-buttered toast
of brown bread, if you can get it; scale and bone a proper number of
anchovies, with little or no washing; cut them into broad slices, and
place them upon the toast, seasoning it with mustard,
without pepper. 
 
 Sausage Toast. --Fry two or three
sausages; when quite hot, strip off the skins, and spread the
meat upon the toast buttered with salt butter; season it
with a little pepper and mustard. It will be improved by a
grating of old cheese. 
 
 Kidney Toast. --Take a cold veal
kidney, with a part of the fat, cut it into very small pieces; pound
the fat in a mortar with a little salt, white pepper and
an onion previously boiled. Bind al together with the beaten whites
of eggs. Heap it upon toast; cover the whole with the yolks
beaten; dredge with bread-crumbs, and bake in the oven. 
 
 Ham Toast. --Grate or pound the cold
ham; toast and butter a slice of bread; mix the
ham with the yolk of an egg and a little cream, until it
is thick and rich; warm it over the fire, and serve it very hot upon the
toast. Tongue may be employed in the same way. 
 
 Scotch Woodcock. --Toast and
butter three or four slices of bread on both sides; take nine or
ten anchovies washed, scraped, and chopped fine, and put them between
the slices of bread. Beat the yolks of four eggs in half a pint
of cream, and set it on the fire to thicken, 
 but not to boil.  Then pour it over the toast,
and send it to table as hot as possible.  
 
 Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys. --Boil the
rumps in gravy, and lard the kidneys with
bacon; set them, along with the rumps, before the fire in a small
tin oven, rubbing them at the same time with yolk of egg and a little
cayenne and nutmeg. When of a light brown, dish them up, either
dry or with any pungent sauce, and garnish them with parsley. 
 
 Baron Broiled. --The streaked part of a thick
flank of bacon is to be preferred; cut nice slices, not above a quarter
of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a
clear fire; turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes. Serve it
very hot. If any remain after dinner of boiled bacon, it is very good
broiled or fried for next day's breakfast. Broiled and boiled bacon has
been highly recommended to the dyspeptic. 
 
 Devils of Biscuits. --Butter them on
both sides; sprinkle cayenne pepper on the top, and send them to be
grilled This may be varied by the addition of chopped anchovies, or the
essence, or diavolo paste. 
 
 Or: --Make a slice of cheese into a
paste with made mustard, and lay it upon one side. 
 
 A Dry Devil. --Take the liver, gizzard,
drumstick, and sidebones of a fowl or turkey; score them; lay on
made mustard very thickly, and add a quantity of cayenne pepper
and salt, and broil them. 
 
 A Wet Devil. --Take any part of a turkey,
goose, or fowl, cover it with mustard, Chetney, diavolo
paste, or any other piquant condiment; put a dessert spoonful of
cayenne pepper, one of pounded white sugar, the juice of a
lemon, a glass of wine, and a glass of ketchup, to a
tea-cupful of gravy; heat them together, pour over the devilled
fowl, and send up very hot. 
 A little cold fresh butter will cool the mouth, should the grill
prove too powerful. 
 
 Devilled Game. --Split a woodcock, a
snipe, a wild duck, or any other game that is undone. To a
teaspoonful of salt add a dessert spoonful of cayenne pepper with
a tablespoonful of curry-powder, and wet the whole with French
mustard. Cover the birds both inside and out with this mixture. Take out
the brains when the head is split, and, if a woodcock, add
the trail; make them into a paste with the yolk of a hard-boiled
egg, half a blade of pounded mace, a saltspoonful of grated
lemon-peel, and season it with essence of anchovies,
ketchup, or other sauce; then add a glass of wine, a
tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, a dessertspoonful of pounded white
sugar, and the juice of a lemon or orange. Roll a bit of
butter, the size of a walnut, in flour; put the birds and
the sauce into a metal dish over a lamp, cover it close, shake it about
occasionally, and when it has stewed until the greater part of the sauce
has been imbibed, serve it round. The legs of fowls, geese, and
turkeys, may be devilled the same way. 
 
 Mustard. --No savory things are ever
brought to table without this indispensable accompaniment. 
 In making it, pure water is most generally used, with a pinch of
salt and sugar, though both are frequently omitted: but a much
better mode for preserving it, as well as adding to it a good flavor, is to
make it of water in which horseradish has been boiled. This costs
no trouble; for if the horseradish be scraped and put in a teacup with
boiling water poured upon it, and covered, the infusion will be strong
enough in little more than half an hour. 
 The Parisian mustard, known as 
 moutarde de maille,  is however much in vogue among
gastronomists, as possessing a finer pungency of flavor, and may  be imitated by mixing up the flour and a little
fine salt with salad oil, so as to form a thick paste,
then diluting it to a certain degree with equal quantities of the vinegars of
horseradish, tarragon, chili, and garlic; or
sufficient of each to please the palate. Cayenne should never be used,
and even chili vinegar but sparingly. 
 
 Sandwiches  require more care than is usually
bestowed on them, for this reason, that every one believes he can cut
sandwiches. Where any quantity is required the bread should be made on
purpose, and the baker should be desired to bake it in tins, and either add a
little butter to it or raise it well before it is put into the tins, so
that it should not be full of holes, as in that case too much butter is
used, and the sandwich becomes disagreeable from being greasy. Out the
bread moderately thin, butter it very slightly indeed, lay the
meat cut thin, season it with salt, pepper, and
mustard, as may be required: cover with a second slice of bread,
trim the edges, put them one on the other, and cover with a damp cloth until
wanted. 
 Where tongue is used it should be boiled the day before, and, when
thoroughly done, pressed in the mould in which the bread is to be
baked. 
 Chickens boned, and farced with a small quantity of farce of
veal and ham, and treated in the same way, will make excellent
sandwiches. 
 
 Soyer  recommends for breakfast also-- 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. --Break three eggs into
a small stewpan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity
of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter, (the fresher the
better;) set the stewpan over a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round
with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep every particle in motion, until the
whole has become a smooth and delicate thickish substance; have ready a
convenient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and
serve immediately. Herring may be laid between the eggs and
toast. 
 
 Eggs au Beurre (a new Method.) -- Let the
eggs boil six minutes, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in
cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate;
cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter,
and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them very hot. 
 
 The following articles for Breakfasts are popular in Spring
and Summer: -- Veal Cutlets--Stewed or Fried Clams-- Cold
Boiled Ham or Tongue--Clam Fritters--Broiled
Shad--Broiled and Fried Fish--Stewed or Broiled
Chickens--Minced Veal--Pickled Salmon--Fried Sweet
Potatoes--Fried Egg Plant-- Green Corn Fritters--Stewed
Pigeons-- Broiled or Sliced Raw
Tomatoes--Hash-balls--Cucumbers--Pepper
Grass--Cresses--Game Birds--Eggs--Omelets of all
kinds--Tongue or Ham Toast-- Rice Cakes--Batter
Cakes--Ripe Fruits. Jam, marmalade and honey are
appropriate. 
 
 In Winter--Additional. --Stewed Pigeons with
Mushrooms--Stewed or Fried Oysters--Broiled and Stewed
Fowl-- Fried Egg Plant--Pork Cheese--Hashed
Poultry--Deviled Gizzards--Steaks-- Chops--Liver
Pudding--Fried Pigs' Feet--Venison Steaks--Venison
Pasty-- Fried Smelts--Minced Codfish---Fish
Cakes--Sausages--Hot Cakes of all kinds, Buckwheat and Flannel
Cakes especially; also Hominy and Mush. 
 A celebrated cook says:--When I was first married and commencing business,
our means were limited: the following was our system of living:-- 
 
 Sunday's Dinner. --Roast Beef, Potatoes,
Greens, and Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 Monday. --Hashed Beef, Potatoes, and
Bread Pudding. 
 
 Tuesday. --Broiled Beef and Bones,
Vegetables and Apple Pudding.  
 
 Wednesday. --Fish, if cheap, Chops,
Vegetables, Pancakes. 
 
 Thursday. --Boiled Pork, Pea Pudding,
Greens, and Rice Pudding. 
 
 Friday. --Pea Soup, remains of Pork,
and Baked Batter Pudding. 
 
 Saturday. --Stewed Steak with Suet
Dumpling, and Rice in a mould with sauce. 
 Dinner for Dinner Party.--Soup-- Fish--Saddle of
Mutton--Cutlets Main-tenon--Greens--Potatoes--Sweet Breads--White
Sauce--Cranberry Jelly-- Pickles--Turkey
Roast--Celery Sauce-- Game Course--Partridges--Wild
Ducks French Salad--Jelly of Fruit--Cheese Cakes--Meringues a la
Creme--Frozen Plum Pudding--Dessert. 
 2d. 
 For a Party of Twenty Persons. -- Soups--Two Dishes
of Fish--Haunch of Mutton--Boiled Capons--Fricandeau of
Veal--Curry of Fowl--Fillets of Beef with Tomato
Sauce--Oyster Patties-- Croquettes of Veal or
Fowl--Cutlets Sou-bise--Wild Ducks--Guinea Fowl
Larded--Scolloped Oysters--Charlotte Russe--Apple with
Rice--Meringues--Punch Jelly--Turban--Cheese Souffle--Dessert. 
 
 For Supper Parties. --Cold Roast
Fowls--Lobster Salad--Chicken Salad--Mayonnaises of
Fowls--Ham--Tongue cut in slices, garnished with
Parsley and Aspic Jelly-Grouse Pie--Boned
Turkey--Terrapins----Game Birds----Oysters Stewed,
Fried--Raised Pastry--Jellies-Ice Creams--Pyramids of Candied
Fruits--Cakes--Compotes of Fruits--Confectionery, &c. 
 Children's Party.----S andwiches---- Dishes of
Lamb--Ham--Beef--Tongue---Fowls--Pastry--Custard--Jellies-Bonbons. 
 Another (Soyer.)--A Roast Turkey-- Two Dishes of Fowls--One
Ham--Two Pigeon Pies--One Piece of Boiled Beef--Four
Lobsters---Four Salads--Four Jellies--Four Tarts--Four of Preserved
Fruit, &c.--Four of Pastry, with about twelve of various kinds of
Fruit, &c.   SPRING. 
 
 Breakfast. ----Tea----Cocoa----Flannel
Cakes--Meat Cakes--Twist Bread--Liver
Puddings--Sausages. 
 
 Dinner. --Pepperpot--White Potatoes--Lima
Beans--Sweet Potatoes-- Stewed Oysters--Stewed
Chickens. 
 
 Breakfast. --Tea--Coffee--Rye Batter
Cakes--Boiled Eggs--Cold Bread-- Sliced
Ham--Beefsteak. 
 
 Dinner. --Vermicelli Soup--White
Potatoes--Tongue--Hominy--Fried Oysters--Boiled
Fowls. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Potatoes--Ruta Baga
Turnips--Asparagus--Mint Sauce--Roast Lamb. 
 
 Dinner. --Fish--Potatoes--Salad-- Roast
Veal--Egg Sauce--Greens.   SUMMER. 
 
 Dinner. --Ochra Soup--Squashes-- Fried
Chickens--Green Corn--Potatoes--Salad--Buttered
Beets--Beef Steak. 
 
 Breakfast. --Cold Bread--Dry Toast--
Clam Fritters--Minced Veal--Cream Cheese. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Egg Sauce--Celery
Sauce--Potatoes--String Beans--Tongue--Squashes--Boiled
Fowls. 
 
 Dinner. --Lamb Soup--Green
Peas--Potatoes----Asparagus----Spinach and
Eggs--Veal--Cutlets. 
 
 Dinner. --Green Pea
Porridge--Potatoes--French Beans--Cucumbers--Currant
Jelly--Pickles--Roast Lamb. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Squashes--Buttered
Beets--Green Corn--Roast Veal. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Fish--Potatoes--String
Beans--Fried Squashes--Corn Fritters--Fried
Chickens.    WINTER. 
 
 Dinner. ---Beef Soup--Sweet
Potatoes--Turnips---Cranberry Sauce--- White
Potatoes--Leg of Pork Stuffed and Roasted. 
 
 Breakfast. --Tea--Coffee--Indian Batter
Cakes--Rolls--Beef Hash--Fried Liver--Pork Steaks. 
 
 Dinner. --Veal Soup--Turnips--Baked
Sweet Potatoes--Mashed Potatoes-- Horse Radish--Roast
Beef. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Fish--Pickled
Beets--Sweet Potatoes---White Potatoes-- Baked
Beans--Roast Ducks. 
 
 Dinner. --Calves' Head Soup--White
Potatoes--Hominy--Turnips--Pickles-- Fillet of Veal
Stuffed and Roasted. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Cranberry
Sauce----Ham--Fried Oysters--White Potatoes--Sweet
Potatoes--Roast Turkey. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Roast Goose--Apple
Sauce--Onion Sauce--Potatoes--Sweet
Potatoes--Tongue--Celery--Stewed Oysters. 
 
 Dinner. --Calves' Head
Soup----Potatoes--Beets--Stewed
Oysters--Turnips--Sweet Potatoes--Onion Sauce--
Boiled Turkey. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Pish--Currant
Jelly--Potatoes--Turnips--Roast Mutton. 
 
 Dinner. --Beef Soup--Smoked Pig's Head
with
Cabbage--Potatoes--Turnips--Macaroni--Beets--Celery--Sweet
Potatoes--Roast Mutton--Batter Pudding Baked--Brandy
Peaches--Pain Perdu-- Floating Island. 
 
 Dinner. --Vegetable Soup--Roast
Pig--Potatoes--Onions--Oyster
Pie--Turnips--Rice--Boiled Turkey--Vermicelli
Pudding--Cocoanut Custard--Tipsy Cake--Indian Pudding. 
 
 Dinner. --Clam Soup--Chowder-- Roast
Fowls--Beets--Mangoes--Tomatoes--Turnips--Maccaroni--Potatoes--
Lamb Pot Pie--Plum Pudding--Rice in a mould with
custard--Wine Sauce-- Cracker Pie. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup-Roast Beef--Celery--
Macaroni--Turnips--Sweet Potatoes--
Potatoes--Fricasseed Chickens--Boiled Tongue --Boiled
Flour Pudding--Tartlets--Compote of Peaches. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup a la Julienne--Roast
Beef--Green
Corn--Mangoes--Tomatoes--Potatoes--Beets--Squashes--Pilau
of Chickens--Custard Pie--Rice Flummery--Baked
Pears--Green Corn Pudding. 
 
 Dinner. --Mullagatawny Soup--Roast
Lamb--Mint Sauce--Macaroni--Potatoes--Boiled
Tongue--Tomatoes--Rice--Roast Ducks--Bread
Pudding--Jellies--Slip--Cherry Tartlets. 
 
 Dinner. ---Oyster Soup---A la mode
Beef--Turnips--Sweet
Potatoes--Beets--Potatoes--Rice--Baked Pork and
Beans--Custards--Suet Pudding--Sauce--Apple
Fritters--Mince Pie. 
 
 Dinner. ----Vermicelli Soup---Boiled
Calf's Head--Turnips--Spare
Rib--Potatoes--Beets--Rice--Roast
Turkey--Apple Dumpling--Flapjacks----Spanish Cream--Pumpkin
Pie. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Chickens--Egg
Sauce--Potatoes--Beans--Tomatoes--Ham-- Green
Corn----Cocoanut Pie----Boiled Custards----Sponge
Cake--Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 Dinner. --Soup--Boiled Salmon--Leg of
Mutton--Caper Sauce--Tomatoes-- Squashes----Green
Corn----Fried Egg Plant--Beans--Tongue--Rice
Pudding--Slip--Farina Mould--Peach Pie. 
 NOTE.--The Cuts of Cooking Utensils in the Second Part were furnished to the
Publishers by Mr. STEPHEN WM. SMITH, whose Housekeeping Furniture Ware Rooms
are at 534 Broadway, near Spring Street, New York.    PART THIRD. PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET, THE FAMILY MEDICAL
GUIDE, MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET.   
 THE perfumes for the handkerchief, as found in the shops of Paris and
London, are either simple or compound; the former are called extracts,
extraits, esprits, or essences, and the latter bouquets and nosegays, which are
mixtures of the extracts so compounded in quantity that no one flower or odor
can be discovered as predominating over another. Perfumes are procured by the
processes of maceration, absorption, and distillation. 
 In making pomade, a certain quantity of purified mutton or deer
suet is put into a clean metal or porcelain pan, this being melted by a
steam heat; the kind of flowers required for the odor wanted are carefully
picked and put into the liquid fat, and allowed to remain from twelve to
forty-eight hours; the fat has a particular affinity or attraction for
the oil of flowers, and thus, as it were, draws it out of them, and
becomes itself, by their aid, highly perfumed; the fat is strained from
the spent flowers, and fresh are added four or five times over, till the pomade
is of the required strength. For perfumed oils the same operation is followed;
but, in lieu of suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben,
derived from the ben nuts of the Levant, is used, and the same results
are obtained. The odors of some flowers are so delicate and volatile, that heat
would spoil them; the process of absorption or enfleurage is, therefore,
conducted cold, thus:--Square frames, about three inches deep, with a glass
bottom, say two feet wide and three feet long, are procured; over
the glass a layer of fat is spread, about half an inch thick, with a
kind of plaster knife; into this the flower buds are stuck, cup downwards, and
ranged completely over it, and there left from twelve to seventy-two hours. 
 
 Almond  perfume is obtained from the bitter
almonds, and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the
seed after it is shelled. The essential oil of almonds enters into
combination with soap, cold cream, and many other materials
prepared by the perfumer.    Almond.  An illustration of almonds still on the tree.   
 A beautiful imitation of Essence of white Lilac may be compounded
thus: One pint spirituous extract from 
tubereuse pomade; one quarter of a pint spirituous extract of
orange-flower pomade; three drops of otto of almonds; half an ounce
extract of civet. 
 The civet is only used to give permanence to the perfume of the
handkerchief. 
 
 Benzoin,  also called Benjamin.--This is a very
useful substance to perfumers. It exudes from the Styrax benzoin by wounding
the tree, and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally
imported from Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam.    Styrax
Benzoin.  An illustration of a Benzoin sprig with leaves and flowers.   
 
 Bay. --Oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential
oil of laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by
distillation from the berries of the bay laurel. 
 
 Bergamot. --This most useful perfume is
procured from the 
 Citrus Bergamia,  by expression from the peel of
the fruit. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about
four ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "
extract of bergamot," and in this state is used for the
handkerchief. 
 
 Geranium  (
 Pelargonium odoratis-simum,  rose-leaf
geranium).--The leaves of this plant yield by distillation a very agreeable
rosy-smelling oil, so much resembling real otto of rose, that it is used
very extensively for the adulteration of that valuable oil, and is grown
very largely for that express purpose. When dissolved in rectified
spirit, in the proportion of about six ounces to the gallon, it forms
the " extract of rose leaf geranium" of the shops. 
 
 Heliotrope. --Either by maceration or enfleurage with
clarified fat, we may obtain this fine odor from the flowers of the 
 Heliotrope Peruvianum  or 
 II grandi florum . For a small trial, which can be
managed by any person having the run of a garden, we will say, procure an
ordinary glue-pot now in common use, which melts the material by the
boiling of water. At the season when the flowers are in bloom, obtain
half a pound of fine mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it
through a close hair-sieve, allow the liquefied fat, as it falls from
the sieve, to drop into cold spring water; this operation granulates and
washes the blood and membrane from it. In order to start with a perfectly
inodorous grease, the melting and granulation process may be repeated
three or four times; finally, re-melt the fat and cast it into a pan to
free it from adhering water. 
 Now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot, and place it in
such a position near the fire of the greenhouse or elsewhere, that will keep it
warm enough to be liquid; into the fat throw as many flowers as you can,
and there let them remain for twenty-four hours; at this time strain the
fat from the spent flowers, and add fresh ones; repeat this operation
for a week: we suppose at the last straining the fat will have become
very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly termed 
 Pomade a la Heliotrope . 
 The cold pomade being chopped up like suet for a pudding, is now to
be put into a wide-mouthed bottle, covered with spirits as highly
rectified as can be ob-  tained, and left to
digest for a week or more; the spirit then strained off will be highly
perfumed: in reality it will be 
 extract of Heliotrope,  a delightful perfume
for the handkerchief. The rationale of the operation is simple enough: the
fat body has a strong affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or
essential oil of the flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact,
and becomes itself perfumed. In the second operation, the spirit has a
much greater attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter; the
former, therefore, becomes perfumed at the expense of the latter. The same
experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the
fat. 
 The experiment here hinted at may be varied with any flowers whatever;
indeed, by having the macerating bath larger than was mentioned above, an
excellent 
 millefleur  pomade and essence might be produced from
every conservatory. 
 The odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla,
and is well imitated thus:-- 
 
 Extract of Heliotrope. --Half a pint of
spirituous extract of vanilla; one gill of spirituous extract of
French rose pomatum; two ounces spirituous extract of orange-flower
pomatum; one ounce spirituous extract of ambergris; five drops of
essential oil of almonds. 
 A good Imitation of Honeysuckle is made thus:--Spirituous extract of
rose pomatum, one pint; spirituous extract of violet pomatum, one pint;
spirituous extract of tubereuse pomatum, one pint; extract of
vanilla, one gill; extract of Tolu, one gill; otto neroli, ten
drops; otto almonds, five drops. 
 
 Imitation Essence of Myrtle. --Extract of
vanilla, half a pint; extract of roses, one pint. 
 
 Orange Flower. --Extract of fleur
d'or-ange, half a pint; extract of tubereuse, half a pint;
extract of jasmine, two ounces. Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight:
it is then fit for bottling, and is a perfume that gives a great deal of
satisfaction. 
 Imitation Essence of Violets.--Spirituous extract of cassie pomade,
one pint; esprit de rose, from pomade, half a pint; tincture of orris,
half a pint; spirituous extract of tuberose pomade, half a pint; otto of
almonds, three drops. 
 
 Imitation " Lily of the Valley." --Extract of
tubereuse, half a pint; extract of jasmine, one ounce; extract of
fleur d'or-ange, two ounces; extract of vanilla, three ounces;

extract of cassie. one gill; extract of rose, one gill; otto of
almonds, three drops. Keep this mixture together for a month, and then
bottle it for sale. It is a perfume that is very much admired. 
 
 Imitation " Essence of Magnolia" -- Spirituous
extract of orange-flower pomatum, one pint; spirituous extract of
rose pomatum, two pints; spirituous extract of tubereuse pomatum, half a
pint; spirituous extract of violet pomatum, half a pint; essential
oil of citron, three drachms; essential oil of almonds, ten
drops. 
 
 Extract d'Ambre. --Esprit de rose triple, half
a pint; extract of ambergris, one pint; essence of musk, one
gill; extract of vanilla, two ounces. 
 This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well
perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been washed. 
 
 Patchouly. --
 Pogostemon patchouly  (Lindley), 
 Plectranthus crassifolius  (Burnett), is an
herb that grows extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles
our garden sage in its growth and form. The odor is due to an otto
contained in the leaves and stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 
 It is the most powerful of any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if
mixed in the proportion of measure for  measure,
it completely covers the smell of all other bodies.    Patchouly.  An illustration of a patcholy plant.  

 
 Extract of Patchouly. --Rectifed.
spirits, one gallon; otto of patchouly, one ounce and a quarter; otto
of rose quarter of an ounce. 
 The characteristic smell of Chinese or Indian ink is due to some
admixture of this herb. 
 The origin of the use of patchouly as a perfume in Europe is curious. A few
years ago real Indian shawls bore an extravagant price, and purchasers
could always distinguish them by their odor; in fact, they were perfumed with
patchouly. The French manufacturers had for some time successfully imitated the
Indian fabric, but could not impart the odor. 
 At length they discovered the secret, and began to import the plant to
perfume articles of their make, and thus palm off homespun shawls as real
Indian ! From this origin the perfumers have brought it into use. 
 
 Imitation of the Essence of Sweet Pea  can be
prepared thus :--Extract of tuberose, half a pint; extract of
fleur d'orange, half a pint; extract of rose from pomatum, half
a pint, extract of vanilla, one ounce. 
 
 Musk. --This extraordinary substance, like
civet, is an animal secretion. Musk is remarkable for the diffusiveness
and subtlety of its scent; every thing in its vicinity soon becomes affected
by it, and long retains its odor, although not in actual contact with it.
Extract of musk, one pint; extract of ambergris, half a pint ;
extract of rose triple, one gill. Mix and filter it; it is then fit for
bottling. 
 
 Rose. --Pure otto of roses, from its cloying
sweetness, has not many admirers; when diluted, however, there is nothing to
equal it in odor, especially if mixed in soap, to form rose soap,
or in pure spirit, to form the esprit de rose. 
 There are four modifications of essence of rose for the hankerchief, which
are the 
 ne plus ultra  of the perfumer's art. They
are,--esprit de rose triple, essence of white roses, essence of
tea rose, and essence of moss rose. The following are the recipes:-- 
 
 Esprit de Rose Triple. --Rectified alcohol,
one gallon; otto of rose, three ounces. Mix at a summer heat; in the course
of a quarter of an hour the whole of the otto is dissolved, and is then ready
for bottling. In the winter season beautiful crystals of the otto--if it is
good--appear disseminated through the esprit. 
 
 Essence of Moss Rose. --Spirituous extract
from French rose pomatum, one quart; esprit de rose triple, one pint ;
extracts fleur d'orange pomatum, one pint; extract of ambergris,
half a pint; extracts of musk, four ounces. Allow the ingredients to
remain together for a fortnight; then filter, if requisite, and it is ready
for sale. 
 
 Essence of White Rose. --Esprit de rose from
pomatum, one quart; esprit de rose triple, one quart; esprit de rose
violette  one quart; extracts of jasmine, one
pint; extracts of patchouly, half a pint. 
 
 Essence of Tea Rose. --Esprit de rose pomade,
one pint; esprit de rose triple, one pint; extract of rose-leaf
geranium, one pint; extract of sandal-wood, half a pint ;
extract of neroli, quarter of a pint; extract of orris, quarter
of a pint. 
 
 Otto of Rosemary  is very extensively used in
perfumery, especially in combination with other ottos for scenting soap.
Eau de Cologne cannot be made without it, and in the once famous "Hungary
water" it is the leading ingredient. The following is the
composition of 
 
 Hungary Water. --Rectified alcohol, one
gallon; otto of English rosemary, two ounces; otto of
lemon-peel, one ounce; otto of balm (
 Melissa ), one ounce; otto of mint, half
drachm; esprit de rose, one pint; extract of fieur d'orange,
one pint. 
 
 Vanilla. --The pod or bean of the 
 Vanilla planifolia  yields a perfume of rare
excellence. 
 
 Extract of Vanilla. --Half a pound of
Vanilla pods, and one gallon of rectified spirit. 
 Slit the pods from end to end, so as to lay open the interior, then cut them
up in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, macerate with occasional agitation
for about a month; the tincture thus formed will only require straining
through cotton to be ready for any use that is required. In this state it is
rarely sold for a perfume, but is consumed in the manufacture of compound
odors, bouquets, or nosegays, as they are called. 
 
 Verbena,  or Vervaine.--The scented species of this
plant, the lemon verbena, 
 Aloysia citriodora  (Hooker), gives one of the finest
perfumes with which we are acquainted; it is well known as yielding a
delightful fragrance by merely drawing the hand over the plant; some of the
little vessels or sacks containing the otto must be crushed in this act, as
there is little or no odor by merely smelling at the plant. 
 The otto, which can be extracted from the leaves by distillation with
water, on account of its high price, is scarcely, if ever, used by the
manufacturing perfumer, but it is most successfully imitated by mixing the otto
of lemon grass, 
 Andropogon schcenanthus,  with rectified
spirit, the odor of which resembles the former to a nicety. The
following is a good form for making the 
 
 Extract of Verbena. --One pint of rectified
spirit; three drachms otto of lemon grass; two ounces otto of
lemon peel; half an ounce otto of orange peel. 
 After standing together for a few hours, and then filtering, it is fit for
use. 
 Another mixture of this kind, presumed by the public to be made from the
same plant, but of a finer quality, is composed thus : 
 
 Extrait de Verveine. --One pint of rectified
spirit; one ounce of otto of orange-peel; two ounces of otto of
lemon peel; one drachm of otto of citron; two drachms and a
half of otto of lemon grass; seven ounces of extrait de fleur
d'orange; seven ounces of extrait de fleur tubereuse; half a pint
esprit de rose. 
 This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, and is one of the most elegant
perfumes that is made. 
 
 Winter Green (Trientalis Europcea).  --A perfuming
otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant; it is principally
consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of
this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made. 
 
 Iceland Winter Green. --One pint esprit de rose; a
quarter of a pint of essence of lavender; half a pint of extract
of neroli; a quarter of a pint of extract of vanilla; a quarter of a
pint of extract  of vitivert; half a pint
of extract of cassie; a quarter of a pint of extract of
ambergris. 
 
 Citron. --On distilling the flowers of the 
 Citrus medica,  a very fragrant oil is
procured, which is a species of neroli, and is principally consumed by the
manufacturers of eau de Cologne. 
 
 Gitronella. --Under this name there is an oil
in the market, chiefly derived from Ceylon and the East Indies. Being cheap, it
is extensively used for perfuming soap. What is now extensively sold as
"honey" soap, is a fine yellow soap, slightly perfumed
with this oil. 
 
 Cloves. --Every part of the clove plant

 (Caryophyllus aromaticus)  abounds with aromatic
oil, but it is most fragrant and plentiful in the unexpanded flower-bud,
which are the cloves of commerce. The plant is a native of the Moluccas
and other islands in the China seas. The oil may be obtained by
expression from the fresh flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is
by distillation. Few essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery; it
combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and forms a
leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences. For
essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the proportion of
two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit.    Cloves.  An illustration of a clove plant.  

 
 Ess. Bouquet. --The reputation of this perfume has
given rise to numerous imitations of the original article, more particularly on
the continent. In many of the shops in Germany and in France will be seen
bottles labelled in close imitation of those sent out by Bayley and Co.,
Cockspur Street, London, who are, in truth, the original makers. 
 Esprit de rose triple, one pint; extract of ambergris, two ounces ;
extract ot orris, eight ounces; otto of lemons, one-quarter of
an ounce; otto of bergamot, one ounce. 
 COMPOUND ODORS, or bouquets, are used for the purpose of fixing the more
volatile odors to the handkerchief. 
 
 Essence of Rondeletia. --Spirit (brandy) one
gallon; otto of lavender, two ounces; otto of cloves, one ounce
; otto of roses, three drachms; otto of bergamot, one ounce; one gill of
extract of musk; one gill of extract of vanilla, and one gill of
extract of ambergris. 
 The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for use. 
 
 Bouquet de Caroline ; also called 
 Bouquet des Delices. --Extrait de rose, from pomade,
one pint; extrait de vio-lette, from pomade, one pint; extrait de tuberose,
from pomade, one pint; extract of orris, half a pint; extract of
ambergris, half a pint; otto of bergamot, a quarter of an ounce ;
otto of limette, a quarter of an ounce; otto of cedret, a quarter of an
ounce. 
 
 The Court Nosegay. --Extrait de rose, one pint ;
extrait de violette, one pint; extrait de jasmine, one pint; esprit de rose
triple, one pint; extract of musk, one ounce; extract of
ambergris, one ounce; otto of lemon, half an ounce; otto of
bergamot, half an ounce; otto of neroli, one drachm. 
 
 Bouquet de Flora ; otherwise, 
 Extract of Flowers. --Esprit de rose, from
pomade, one pint; esprit de tubereuse, from 
pomade, one pint; esprit de violette, from pomade, one pint; extract
of benzoin, an ounce and a half; otto of ber-gamot, two ounces; otto of
lemon, half an ounce; otto of orange, half an ounce. 
 
 Essentia Odorifera. --Take of musk grain, ten
grains; civet, five grains; Peruvian balsam, twelve grains; oil of
cloves, four drops; oil of rhodium, two drops; sub-carbonate of
potash, half a drachm; rectified spirits of wine, two ounces.
Digest them together in a close vessel, with a heat equal to that of the sun in
summer (78 deg. Fahr.) for several days, and afterwards pour off the essence
for use.--This is an exquisite perfume, and a single drop gives a fine flavor
to many ounces of other liquors. 
 
 Eau de Chypre. --This is an old-fashioned French
perfume, presumed to be derived from the 
 Cyperus esculentus  by some, and by others to be so
named after the island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus
: 
 Extract of musk, one pint; extract of ambergris, half a pint
; extract of vanilla, half a pint; extract of tonquin
bean, half a pint; extract of orris, half a pint; esprit de
rose triple, two pints. 
 The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be
made. 
 
 Empress Eugenie's Nosegay. --Extract of musk,
one gill; extract of vanilla, one gill; extract of tonquin, one
gill; extract of neroli, one gill; extract of geranium, half a
pint; extract of rose triple, half a pint; extract of santal,
half a pint. 
 
 The Guards' Bouquet. --Esprit de rose, two pints ;
esprit de neroli, half a pint; extract of vanilla, two ounces ;
extract of orris, two ounces; extract of musk, a quarter of a
pint; otto of cloves, half a drachm. 
 
 Fleur d'Italie, or Italian Nosegay. -- Esprit de
rose, from pomade, two pints; Esprit de rose triple, one pint; esprit de
jasmine, from pomade, one pint; esprit de violette. from pomade, one pint ;
extract of cassie, half a pint; extract of musk, two ounces ;
extract of ambergris, two ounces. 
 
 Jockey Club Bouquet  (English
formula).--Extract of orris root, two pints; esprit de rose triple, one
pint; esprit de rose de pomade, one pint; extrait de cassie de pomade, half a
pint; extrait de tubereuse de pomade, half a pint; extrait of
ambergris, half a pint; otto of bergamot, half an ounce. 
 
 Jockey Club Bouquet  (French formula). --Esprit de
rose de pomade, one pint; esprit de tubereuse, one pint; esprit de cassie,
half a pint; esprit de jasmine, a quarter of a pint; extract of civet,
three ounces.   SPIRITUOUS INFUSIONS. 
 Leaves, flowers, roots, wood, resins, powders, and perfumes of animal
origin, all serve to furnish these tinctures. The substances are either cut,
rasped, or bruised, according to their nature, and infused for some days or a
month, taking care not to fill the vessel so full as to prevent its contents
being stirred up occasionally. These infusions are made either with
alcohol or brandy. 
 
 Eau de Vie de Lavande. --Take one pound of flowers,
and three pints of brandy. Infuse in a closed vessel for six weeks. and
after that strain and bottle up for use or sale. 
 
 Infusion de Lavande Rouge composée 
(English).--Take of spirit lavender, one pound and a half; spirit
rosemary, one pound; pulverized cinnamon, one ounce; pulverized
nutmegs, one ounce; red sanders, one drachm. After two weeks infusion,
filter. 
 
 Infusion de Camomille Romaine. --One  pound of flowers suffices for three quarts of
brandy. 
 
 Infusion of Absinthe : de Sauge, &c. -- Take only
four leaves to the quart of brandy. These infusions serve in the
composition of sundry aromatic waters. 
 
 Infusion or Esprit de Safran. --To a quart of
alcohol, take two ounces saffron and infuse for two months. This
spirit is used for coloring waters, pastes, &c., but in very small
proportions. 
  Infusion or Esprit de Rhodia. --Infuse as before one
pound of rhodium wood in two quarts of spirit. If the wood is resinous,
only half a pound is required. 
 
 Infusion or Teinture de Canelle. -- Take four ounces
best bruised cinnamon to the quart of spirit. 
 
 Tincture of Sassafras. --Infuse eight ounces
of bruised sassafras in one quart of alcohol. 
 
 Tincture of Santal-citrin  (yellow
san-ders).--Operate as for the preceding infusion. 
 
 Tincture of Benzoin. --Take Benzoin in tears
and pulverized, two ounces; alcohol one pound. After seven days'
infusion, filter. This tincture is used, principally, for making the 
 Lait Virginal,  either with pure rose, orange
flower or lavender water. 
 
 To make Eau-de-Cologne. --Rectified spirits of
wine, four pints; oil of berga-mot, one ounce; oil of
lemon, half an ounce; oil of rosemary, half a drachm; oil
of Neroli, three quarters of a drachm; oil of English lavender,
one drachm; oil of oranges, one drachm. Mix well, and then filter. If
these proportions are too large, smaller ones may be used. 
 
 Eau Jaune à l'Amaryllis. --In two quarts of
alcohol, dissolve two ounces essence of bergamot, four ounces
essence oi lemon, four drachms essence of Portugal, four drachms essence

of neroli, one drachm essence of thyme, one drachm essence of
rosemary, two ounces of tincture of cloves, eight ounces of 
 lait virginal,  as much of vanilla water, four
drachms of essence of amber, and two drachms essence of musk.
Dilute the spirit with good rose water, and add a little of red
or yellow tincture, according to choice. 
 
 Eau d'Ambre Royale. --To a quart of alcohol
add half a pint of spirit of ambrette, an ounce of essence of
amber, an ounce of musk mixed with a proportional quantity of
orange-flower water. 
 
 Eau de Chypre. --Mix together (
 eau de ) jasmine, one quart; (eau de)
bergamot, one quart; (
 eau de ) violet, one quart; (
 eau de ) tuberose, one quart; (
 esprit ) spirit of ambrette, one pint ;
essence of musk, one ounce; mecca balsam, one ounce; storax, half an
ounce. 
 Add to the mixture two ounces of water, and mix thoroughly together,
so that no one odor predominates over the rest. 
 
 Lavender Water. --Oil of lavender, two
drachms; oil of bergamot, half drachm; essence of musk, one
drachm; spirit of wine, thirteen ounces; water, five ounces.
Let it stand a week. 
 
 Eau de Bouquet de Flore. --
 Eau de miel,  two ounces; tincture of cloves,
one ounce; tincture of calamus, half an ounce; tincture of
lavender, half an ounce; tincture of souchet, half an ounce; 
 eau sans pareille,  four ounces; tincture of
jasmine nine drachms; tincture of orris root, one ounce ;
tincture of neroli, twenty drops. 
 These waters and tinctures mixed together, give a product of exquisite
fragrance. 
 
 Eau d'Elegance. --Spirit of jasmine, two
quarts; spirit of storax, one pint; spirit of hyacinth, one
pint; spirit of badiane, four ounces; tincture of balsam of
Tolu, four ounces; tincture of vanilla, two ounces. 
 
 Eau de Miel. --This receipt is from one of the most
celebrated English perfumers; coriander, seven pounds; cloves,
twelve  ounces; storax, eight ounces; bruised
nutmegs, eight ounces; lemon-peel, ten ounces; calamus, six
ounces; alcohol, fifteen quarts. 
 Macerate for a month in a well-stoppered demijohn. Distil then, and to the
liquor add : orange-flower water, five quarts; essence of roses,
twenty-four drops; pulverized ambergris, one drm.; vanilla in
pieces, two ounces. 
 Macerate for a week, and filter. This is one of the most agreeable waters
used.   OILS FOR THE HAIR. 
 
 For Thickening and Strengthening the Hair. --Skim the
fat from the top of calves' feet while boiling; mix with
a teaspoonful of rum; shake together. Apply night and morning. 
 
 Pomatum. --Take white mutton suet, four
pounds, well boiled in hot water, (three quarts,) and washed to free it
from salt. Melt the suet when dried with one pound and a half of
fresh lard, and two pounds of yellow wax. Pour into an earthen vessel,
and stir till it is cold; then beat into it thirty drops of oil of
cloves, or any other essential oil whose scent you prefer. If this
is too hard, use less wax. 
 
 Or: --Soak half a pound of clear beef-marrow,
and a pound of unsalted fresh lard, in water, two or three days,
changing and beating it every day. Put it into a sieve, and when dry, into a
jar, and the jar into a saucepan of water. When melted, pour it into a
basin, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; drain off the
brandy, and then add essence of lemon, bergamot, or any
other scent that is liked. 
 
 Pomade Victoria. --This highly praised and excellent
pomade is made in the following way--and if so made, will be found to give a
beautiful gloss and softness to the hair :--Quarter of a pound of honey
and half an ounce of beeswax simmered together for a few minutes, and
then strain; and of oil of almonds, lavender, and thyme,

half a drachm each. Be sure to continue stirring till quite cold, or the
honey and wax will separate. 
 
 Imitation Bear's Grease. --Hog's lard,
sixteen ounces; flowers of benzoin and palm oil, of each quarter of an
ounce. Melt together until combined, and stir until cold. Scent at pleasure.
This will keep a long time. 
 
 Sweet Pot-pourri. --Take three handfuls of
orange-flowers, three of clove-gillyflowers, three of
damask-roses, one of knotted marjoram, one of lemon-thyme, six
bay-leaves, a handful of rosemary, one of myrtle, half of mint,
one of lavender, the rind of a lemon, and quarter of an ounce of
cloves. Chop all, and put them in layers, with pounded bay-salt
between, up to the top of a china jar. 
 If all the ingredients cannot be got at once, put them in as you get them;
always throwing in salt with every new article. 
 
 To make Wash-balls. --Shave thin two pounds of new
white soap into about a teacupful of rose-water, then pour as
much boiling water on as will soften it. Put into a brass pan a pint of
sweet oil, four pennyworth of oil of almonds, half a pound of
spermaceti, and set all over the fire till dissolved; then add the soap
and half an ounce of camphor that has first, been reduced to powder by
rubbing it in a mortar, with a few drops of spirits of wine, or
lavender-water, or any other scent. Boil ten minutes, then pour it into
a basin, and stir it till it is quite thick enough to roll up into hard
balls, which must then be done as soon as possible. If essence is used, stir it
in quickly after it is taken off the fire, that the flavor may not fly off. 
 
 Paste for Chapped Hands. -Mix a quarter of a
pound of unsalted hog's lard, which has been washed in soft
water, and then rose-water, with the yolks of two new-laid  eggs, and a large spoonful of honey.
Add as much fine oatmeal or almond-paste as will work into a
paste. 
 
 Or: --Blanch one pound of bitter almonds,
pound them smooth in a marble mortar; add half an ounce of camphor, one
ounce of honey, quarter of a pound of spermaceti, all pounded, and mixed
with the almonds, till it becomes a smooth paste. Put it into
jars or china boxes, and tie it down till wanted. 
 
 For Chapped Lips. --Put quarter of an ounce of
benjamin, storax, and spermaceti, pennyworth of alkanet-root, a large juicy
apple chopped, a bunch of black grapes bruised, quarter of a
pound of unsalted butter, and two ounces of beeswax, into a new
tin saucepan. Simmer gently till the wax, &c., are dissolved, and then
strain it through linen. When cold, melt it again, and pour it into small pots
of boxes; or, if to make cakes, use the bottoms of teacups. 
 
 Cosmetic Gloves. --Though not altogether fashionable
now, these gloves are still worn by those who are subject to chaps and
chilblains : the ladies especially use them; hence the necessity of always
being provided with a small stock. 
 
 Gants cosmétiques au bouquet. --Wax, four
drachms; spermaceti, four drachms; white soap, four drachms ;
mutton suet, seven drachms. 
 Mince up each of these substances separately, melt them over a
water-bath, and add : Olive oil, an ounce and a half; pomade
rosat, one ounce and a half; benzoin, one drachm; Peru balsam, one drachm ;
essence of roses, some drops; honey water, au bouquet, half an ounce.
Stir together until the mixture is complete, and, whilst the mass is still hot,
apply it with a brush to the wrong sides of the gloves. The gloves being
returned, are blown up, and put by in a warm place to dry. 
 
 Or: --Beat two yolks of eggs with two
spoonfuls of oil of sweet almonds, and add half an ounce rose
water and two drachms tincture of benzoin. 
 The gloves are worn during the night, and each pair should serve two weeks.
The rest of the pomade answers for rubbing the hands. 
 
 Lait de rose  (milk of rose).--To one ounce of
fine olive oil, and six drops of oil of tartar, add a quart of
rose water. Melt together, in a stoneware vessel, over a
water-bath : Spermaceti, one ounce; white wax, one ounce;
white soap, one ounce. Rub up in a marble mortar bitter almonds
(best quality), two ounces; sweet almonds, best quality, one pound.
Take out three-fourths, and upon the remaining fourth pour the above mixture,
and continue rubbing actively, and afterwards add, by degrees, the other
three-fourths of the almonds, always pestling rapidly so as to
thoroughly incorporate the mixture. 
 Again prepare in a white-glass bottle the following mixture
:--Distilled water, two pounds; rose water, half a pound ;
spirit of rose, half a pound. Reserve a pint, and pour gradually into
the rest the first, and rub well all the while; then strain through a close
cloth, and return the marc to the mortar, where, being triturated with the pint
above reserved, it is again strained, and the liquid united with the first. 
 If there is any tendency to decomposition, shake up the milk freely.
To augment the fragrance of this composition, perfume with four drops essence
of rose. 
 
 Violet Powder. --Wheat starch, twelve pounds ;
orris-root powder, two pounds; otto of lemon, half an ounce; otto of
bergamot, a quarter of an ounce; otto of cloves, two drachms. 
 
 Rose Face Powder. --Wheat starch, seven pounds
; rose pink, half a drachm ;  otto of rose, two
drachms; otto of santal, two drachms. 
 
 Perle Powder. --French chalk, one pound ;
oxide of bismuth, one ounce; oxide of zinc, one ounce. 
 
 Poudre de la mer rouge,  by Cambou, Paris.--Take
alum, one pound; white sugar, one ounce; gum arabic
(best), one ounce; carmine, one ounce. Mix and reduce the whole to an
impalpable powder, and sieve through a fine cloth. 
 This powder, its author says, is curative of the ringworm, red blotches, and
pimples. 
 It is tied up loosely in a bag, and this bag, moistened with fresh
water, is rubbed gently over the skin.   SOAPS. 
 
 Sawn au miel. --Take four ounces white soap,
four ounces white honey, one ounce benzoin, half an ounce storax; mix
the whole together in a marble mortar, and when well incorporated, melt the
paste over a water-bath, strain, pour into frames, and divide
into small tablets. 
 
 Lady Derby's Soap. --Take two ounces blanched
bitter almonds, ten drachms tincture benzoin, a pound of white
soap, and a piece of camphor, size of a filbert; powder the
almonds and camphor in a separate mortar, and, when they are completely
mixed, add the benzoin. If there should be too much odor of benzoin and
camphor, weaken the perfume by remelting the soap. 
 
 Saponaceous Cream of Almonds. --The
preparation sold under this title is a potash soft soap of lard. It has
a beautiful pearly appearance, and has met with extensive demand as a shaving
soap. It is made thus :--Clarified lard, seven pounds ;
potash of lye (containing twenty-six per cent. of caustic
potash), three and three-quarter pounds; rectified spirit, three
ounces; otto of almonds, two drachms. 
 
 Manipulation: --Melt the lard in a porcelain
vessel by a salt-water bath; then run in the lye, very slowly,
agitating the whole time; when about half the lye is in, the mixture begins to
curdle; it will, however, become so firm that it cannot be stirred. The creme
is then finished, but is not pearly; it will, however, assume that appearance
by long trituration in a mortar, gradually adding the alcohol, in which
has been dissolved the perfume. 
 
 Transparent Soap. --Take of perfectly dry,
pulverulent white soap, two pounds; alcohol, three quarts; heat
gently together over a water-bath, and when the solution is complete,
perfume, and turn out into forms. 
 When cooled, divide it into cakes, one-third thicker than their designed
size, so as to allow for contraction by evaporation. 
 
 Frangipanne Soap. --Curd soap,
previously colored light brown, seven pounds; civet, a quarter of an ounce ;
otto of neroli, half an ounce; otto of santal, an ounce and a half; otto of
rose, a quarter of an ounce; otto of vitivert, half an ounce. 
 
 Rose Cold Cream -- Almond oil, one
pound; rose-water, one pound; white wax, one ounce; spermaceti,
one ounce; otto of roses, half a drachm. Heat the wax and sperm in a
water-bath; add the otto last. 
 
 Cold Cream of Almonds  is prepared precisely as
the above; but in place of otto of roses otto of almonds is used. 
 
 Violet Cold Cream .--Huile violette, one pound
; rose-water, one pound; wax and spermaceti, each one ounce; otto of
almonds, five drops. 
 
 Violet Cold Cream.  
 Imitation: --Almond oil, three-quarters of a
pound;  huile cassie, a quarter of a pound;
rose-water, one pound; sperm and wax, one ounce; otto of almonds,
a quarter of a drachm. 
 This is an elegant and economical preparation, generally admired. 
 
 Camphor Cold Cream  (otherwise
Camphor Ice).--Almond oil, one pound; rose water, one
pound; wax and spermaceti, one ounce; camphor, two ounces; otto of
rosemary, one drachm. 
 
 Pommades des Sultanes. --Melt over a
water-bath one ounce white wax and two ounces spermaceti;
withdraw from the fire, and then add eight ounces oil of sweet
almonds, eight ounces oil of white poppy, and continue beating
together without interval until the mixture begins to get white, then
put in half an ounce of Mecca balsam and a gill of rose-water, and
prolong the rubbing until the mixture will take up no more of rose
water, and detaches itself in large flakes or lumps. 
 In filling the pots, take care to cover the contents with a little
rose-water. This is among the best preparations for softening the
skin and preserving its freshness. 
 
 Pommade de Ninon de L'Enclos,  by Boyer.--Take oil
of sweet almonds, four ounces; washed lard, three ounces,
rose-water, three, ounces. This pomade is extremely mild and
refreshing. 
 
 Pate divine de Venus,  by Bourdel.-- Mix together
equal parts of purified lard, fresh butter, and honey, and
add a half portion of Mecca balsam, and essence of roses. 
 
 Almond Balls. --Purified suet, one pound;
white wax, half a pound; otto of almonds, one drachm; otto of
cloves, quarter of a drachm. 
 
 Camphor Balls. --Purified suet, one
pound; white wax, half a pound; camphor, quarter of a pound; otto
of French lavender or rosemary, half an ounce. 
 
 Camphor Paste --Sweet almond oil, half
a pound; purified lard, quarter of a pound; wax, spermaceti and
camphor, each, one ounce. 
 
 Pate d'Amandes Aux Jaunes d'æufs. --To four
ounces sweet almonds, powdered finely in a marble mortar, add the
yolks of three fresh eggs, mix well, thin out with eight ounces
of milk, and boil until it assumes the consistence of paste,
stirring constantly during the ebullition. Perfume with one drachm essence
of vanilla. 
 
 Composition par Blaque, Paris, for Softening the
Skin. --Butter, four pounds; oil of sweet
almonds, four pounds; common white soap, six pounds; decoction of
marshmallow, eight pounds; alcohol, one pint. 
 Melt and heat together, in a stoneware vessel, over a water-bath,
stirring well all the time; and when the whole is thoroughly incorporated, pour
out to cool. Perfume according to taste. A quantity of the size of a
filbert, well rubbed on, suffices for washing the hands. 
 
 Camphor Cerate for Chapped Hands. -- Take half
an ounce of spermaceti, half an ounce of white wax, scrape them into an
earthen vessel or pipkin (an earthen jam-pot will do,) add six drachms of
pounded camphor, and pour on the whole four table-spoonfuls of best
olive oil let it stand before the fire till it dissolves, stirring it
well when liquid. Before you wash your hands, take a small piece of the cerate,
and rub it into your hands, then wash them as usual. Putting the cerate on
before going to bed is very good. The ingredients cost two shillings, and this
quantity will last for three winters. The vessel should be covered, to prevent
evaporation. 
 
 To eradicate Warts. --Dissolve as much common
washing soda as the water will take up; repeatedly wash with this
for a  minute or two, and let them dry without
wiping. 
 
 Another Method. ---Get a little bullock's
gall, keep it in a bottle, and rub a little on the warts two or three
times a day. 
 
 Cold Cream. --Lard, six ounces;
spermaceti, one ounce and a drachm and a half; white wax, three drachms;
rose-water, three ounces; carbonate of potass, fifteen grains;
spirits of wine, three quarters of an ounce; essential oil of
bergamot, three drachms. Melt the three first, then add the
rose-water, carbonate of potass, and spirits of wine, stirring
well, and when nearly cold add the perfume. I can safely say that this is
first-rate, having made many pounds of it. 
 
 To Whiten the Nails. --Diluted sulphuric acid,
two drachms; tincture of myrrh, one drachm; spring water, four
ounces. Mix. First cleanse with white soap, and then dip the fingers
into the mixture. 
 
 To Whiten the Hands. --Take a wine-glassful of
Eau de Cologne, and another of lemon-juice: then scrape two cakes of
brown Windsor soap to a powder, and mix well in a mould. When
hard, it will be an excellent soap for whitening the hands. 
 
 Rose Lip Salve. --Eight ounces sweet almond
oil, four ounces prepared mutton suet, one and a half ounces
white wax, two ounces spermaceti, twenty drops otto 5 steep a small
quantity of alkanet root in the oil, and strain before using. Melt the
suet, wax, and spermaceti together, then add the coloric oil and
otto. 
 
 Pommade de Beauté,  for improving the
complexion, and healing chaps. Melt together over a water-bath
white wax, one and a half drachms; spermaceti, two drachms; oil of
sweet almonds, half an ounce; oil of olives, pure, half an ounce;
oil of poppy, half an ounce balsam Peru, liquid, four drops. Add the
balsam after having well beaten the mixture. This is an excellent cosmetic. 
 
 Glycerine Balsam. --White wax, spermaceti,
each one ounce; almond oil, half a pound; glycerine, two ounces; otto of
roses, quarter of a drachm. 
 
 White Lip Salve. --Almond oil, quarter
of a pound; wax and spermaceti, each one ounce; otto of almonds, half a
drm.; otto of geranium, quarter of a drachm. 
 
 Common Lip Salve  is made simply of equal parts of
lard and suet, colored with alkanet root, and perfumed with an
ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve. 
 
 Pommade, by Dr. Pittschaft, Baden, for Chapped
Lips. --Take sublimed oxide of zinc, one drachm; lycopodium powder, one
drachm; pommade rosat, four ounces. 
 Mix, and make into a perfectly homogeneous pomade. 
 This is an excellent remedy for chapped lips, and is beneficial in cases of
ulceration of the nails of the feet. Its application in such instances
must be immediately after bathing the affected parts. 
 A toilet can be arranged and furnished according to taste, where there is
more regard to convenience and comfort than expense of outlay. The 
 necessaries,  however, for a dressing-table and
washstand, are two cakes of fine soap, a box of dentifrice, a pot of
pomade for the hair, and a box of lip salve. 
 
 Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery. --The pungency
of the odor of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the
art of perfumery. 
 The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid
aromatized with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus:-- 
 
 Aromatic Vinegar. --Concentrated acetic acid,
eight ounces; otto of English lavender, two drachms; otto of English  rosemary, one drachm; otto of cloves,
one drachm; camphor, one ounce. 
 First dissolve the bruised camphor in the acetic acid, then add the
perfumes; after remaining together for a few days, with occasional agitation,
it is to be strained, and is then ready for use. 
 The most popular article of this kind is-- 
 
 Henry's Vinegar. --Dried leaves of
rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and
lavender flowers, each half an ounce; bruised nutmeg,
cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each quarter of an
ounce; alcohol (rectified), four ounces; concentrated acetic acid,
sixteen ounces. 
 Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit; then add the acid,
digest for a week, and filter it. 
 
 Vinaigre à la Rose. --Concentrated acetic
acid, one ounce; otto of roses, half a drachm. Well shaken together. 
 It is obvious that vinegars differently perfumed may be made in a similar
manner to the above, by using other ottos in place of the otto of roses. All
these concentrated vinegars are used in the same way as perfumed
ammonia, that is, by pouring three or four drachms into an ornamental
"smelling" bottle, previously filled with crystals of sulphate of
potash, which forms the "sel de vinaigre" of the shops; or upon sponge
into little silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their French origin. The
use of these vinegars had their origin in the notion that they kept those who
carried them from the effects of infectious disease. 
 
 Mint Vinegar. --This is made by putting into a
wide-mouthed bottle, fresh nice clean mint leaves enough to fill it
loosely; then fill up the bottle with good vinegar; and after it has
been stopped close for two or three weeks, it is to be poured off clear into
another bottle, and kept well corked for use. Serve with lamb when
mint cannot be obtained. 
 
 Thieves' Vinegar. --Take of rue,
sage, mint, rosemary, wormwood, and
lavender, a large handful of each; infuse in one gallon of
vinegar, in a stone jar closely covered, and keep warm by the fire for
four days, then strain, and add one ounce of camphor, pounded; bottle,
and keep well corked. There is a legend connected with this preparation (called
in French 
 Vinaigre à quatre Voleurs),  that during the
plague at Marseilles certain robbers plundered the infected houses with
impunity, and being apprehended and condemned to death, were pardoned on
condition of disclosing the secret of their preventive--as above. The mode of
using is to wash the face and hands with it previous to exposure to any
infection. 
 
 Vinaigre Virginal. --This mild and refreshing liquor
is excellent to remove prickly heat, but, before being used for such purpose,
must be diluted with water. 
 Take benzoin pulverized, two ounces; alcohol, eight ounces;
vinegar, two pounds. 
 Digest the benzoin in the alcohol for a week, decant the liquor, and
to the residue add the vinegar; after six days' infusion, this too is
decanted, and it and the alcoholic tincture are mixed together, and
filtered the next day. This vinegar weakened with water is a most
excellent cosmetic, and is in fact a remedy for the ill effects of pernicious
rouges and paints upon the skin. 
  Of Vinegars by Infusion. --These are either 
 vinegars of flowers or aromatic vinegars.  
 
 Vinaigre de Toilette, by Sinfar,
Paris. --Alcohol eight quarts; white vinegar, two quarts;
cologne water, one pint; extract of benzoin, two ounces;
extract of storax, two ounces; acetic acid, four ounces; essence of
lavender, one ounce and a half; essence of cinnamon,  one drachm; essence of cloves, one drachm;
ammonia, one drachm. 
 Mix together the alcohol, lavender, cinnamon and
cloves, and macerate for eight days; then add the vinegars, cologne,
extracts, and ammonia; color, and filter through paper. 
 
 Vinaigre Roast. --Dry rose leaves, red, half a pint;
good vinegar, eight quarts. Macerate for two weeks in a closed vessel,
and after that filter. 
 Vinaigre à la Fleur d'Oranger.--Fresh orange flowers, one and
a half pounds; vinegar, eight quarts; brandy 
 à la fleur d'oranger,  one quart. Macerate for
twelve days, and filter. 
 
 Vinaigres Infusées à la Lavande, de Sauge,
Thyme, &e. --One pound of fresh flowers to twelve quarts of
vinegar. 
 
 Vinaigre Scillitique, for clearing the Voice. --Among
speakers and vocalists, it is desirable, before commencing the exercises of
their vocation, that the throat be freed from all pituitous hoarseness. This
vinegar accomplishes that object, and besides imparting a tone to the
glottis and all the organs, it serves to develop and perfect the voice. Put
five or six drops of the preparation in a glass of warm water, and
gargle therewith morning, noon, and night of the days on which the voice is to
be exerted. Take of dried squills, one part; good vinegar, twelve parts;
alcohol, half a part. After two weeks' maceration in a close vessel,
press out and filter. 
 
 Vinaigre Alcoholique, for Fits and Swoons. --Mix
together equal parts of strong concentrated vinegar and alcohol;
and, to increase its force, add two drops of ether to the quart. This
composition is most excellent in cases of fainting and swooning. 
 The best preparation for smelling-bottles is what is termed 
 Inexhaustible Salts,  which is prepared thus: Liquid
ammonia, one pint; otto of rosemary, one drachm; otto of English
lavender, one drachm; otto of bergamot, half a drachm; otto of
cloves, half a drachm. Mix the whole together with agitation in a very
strong and well stoppered bottle. 
 This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous
absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge cuttings, that
have been well beaten, washed and dried. These will retain the ammoniacal odor
longer than any other material; hence, we presume, bottles filled in this way
are called "inexhaustible," which name, however, they do not sustain more than
two or three months with any credit; the warm hand soon dissipates the
ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to be refilled. 
 
 Preston Salts,  which is the cheapest of all the
ammoniacal compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of
ammonia and lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia,
or of sesqui-car-bonate of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime.
When the bottles are filled with this compound, rammed in very hard, a
drop or two of some cheap otto is poured on the top prior to corking. For this
purpose otto of French lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers
very well. We need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted
sealing-wax. 
 
 Cassolettes and Printaniers. --Cassolettes and
printaniers are little ivory boxes of various designs, perforated in order to
allow the escape of the odors contained therein. The paste used for
filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made glad," is composed of equal
parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the
vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or
gum tragacanth, to work the whole together into a paste. These things
are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much  in the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinaigrettes
are used. 
 
 Sachet a la Frangipanne. --Orris-root powder, three
pounds; vitivert powder, a quarter of a pound; santal-wood powder, a quarter of
a pound; otto of neroli, one drachm; otto of rose, one drachm; otto of santal,
one drachm; musk-pods, ground, one ounce. 
 The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a
Roman alchemist of the noble family of Frangipani. 
 
 Heliotrope Sachet. --Powdered orris, two pounds; rose
leaves, ground, one pound; tonquin beans, ground, half a pound; vanilla
beans, a quarter of a pound; grain musk, a quarter of an ounce; otto of
almonds, five drops. Well mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is fit
for sale. 
 It is one of the best sachets made, and is so like in its odor to the flower
from which it derives its name, that no person unacquainted with its
composition would, for an instant, believe it to be any other than the "real
thing." 
 
 Lavender Sachet. --Lavender flowers,
ground, one pound; gum benzoin, in powder, a quarter of a pound; otto of
lavender, a quarter of an ounce. 
 Sachet à la Mousselaine.--Vitivert, in powder, one pound;
santal-wood, half a pound; orris, half a pound; black currant leaves,
half a pound; benzoin, in powder, a quarter of a pound; otto of thyme,
five drops; otto of roses, half a drachm. 
 
 Millefleur Sachet. --Lavender flowers, ground,
one pound; orris, one pound; rose leaves, one pound; benzoin, one pound;
tonquin, a quarter of a pound; vanilla, a quarter of a pound; santal, a
quarter of a pound; musk and civet, two drachms; cloves, ground,
a quarter of a pound; cinnamon, two ounces; allspice two
ounces. 
 
 Portugal Sachet. --Dried orange-peel, one
pound; dried lemon-peel, half a pound; dried orris root, half a
pound; otto of orange-peel, one ounce; otto of neroli, a quarter of a
drachm; otto of lemon grass , a quarter of a drachm. 
 
 Patchouly Sachet. --Patchouly herb, ground,
one pound; otto of patchouly, a quarter of a drachm. Patchouly herb is
often sold in its natural state, as imported, tied up in bundles of half a
pound each. 
 
 Pot Pourri. --This is a mixture of dried flowers and
spices not ground. Dried lavender, one pound; whole rose-leaves,
one pound; crushed orris, coarse, half a pound; broken cloves, two
ounces; broken cinnamon, two ounces; broken allspice, two
ounces. 
 
 Rose Sachet. --Rose heels or leaves, one pound;
santal wood, ground, half a pound; otto of roses, a quarter of an ounce. 
 
 An excellent Water to prevent Hair from falling off,
and to thicken it. --Put four pounds of unadulterated honey into a
still, with twelve handfuls of the tendrils or vines, and the same quantity of
rosemary-tops. Distil as cool and as slowly as possible. The liquor may
be allowed to drop till it begins to taste sour. 
 
 Tooth Powder. --Powdered orris root,half an ounce;
powdered charcoal, two ounces; powdered Peruvian bark, one ounce;
prepared chalk, half an ounce; oil of bergamot or
lavender, twenty drops. These ingredients must be well worked up in a
mortar, until thoroughly incorporated. This celebrated tooth-powder possesses
three essential virtues, giving an odorous breath, cleansing and purify- ing
the gums, and preserving the enamel; the last rarely found in popular
tooth-powders. 
 
 Bandoline for the Hair (a French  
 receipt). --To one quart of water put half an
ounce of quince pips, boil it nearly an hour, stirring it well, strain
it through a fine muslin, let it stand twenty-four hours, and then add fourteen
drops of the essential oil of almonds. A dessert spoonful of
brandy may be added, if required to keep a long time. 
 
 Economical Hair Wash. ---Take one ounce of borax,
half an ounce of camphor, powder these ingredients fine, and dissolve
them in one quart of boiling water; when cool, the solution will be
ready for use; damp the hair frequently. This wash not only effectually
cleanses and beautifies, but strengthens the hair, preserves the color,
and prevents early baldness. The camphor will form into lumps, but the
water will be sufficiently impregnated. 
 
 To make a Curling Fluid for the Hair.  Melt a bit of
white bees'-wax, about the size of a filbert kernel, in one ounce
of olive oil, to this add one or two drops of otto of roses. 
 
 Rose Bandoline. --Gum tragacanth, six ounces; rose
water, one gallon; otto of roses, half an ounce. Steep the gum in
water well, strain and mix thoroughly. 
 
 Simple Pastilles. --Benzoin, half an ounce;
cassia, one drachm; charcoal, two ounces; salpetre, one drachm.
Reduce all to powder, and mix into a paste with a solution of one ounce
of gum tragacanth to the pint. 
 
 Pastilles au benzoin. --Take half a pound of benzoin,
four or five grains of storax, five grains of cassia, two drachms of dry
Peru balsam, half a drachm of cloves; half an ounce of charcoal;
one drachm of nitre, half a drachm essential oil of orange flowers, and
half a drachm tincture of ambergris. All these materials must be in fine
powder. 
 
 Pastilles à la rose. --Gum, in impalpable
powder, six ounces; olibanum, in impalpable powder, six ounces; storax, in
impalpable powder, six ounces; saltpetre, in impalpable powder, four
ounces; Powder 
 à la rose,  impalpable powder, eight ounces;
charcoal, impalpable powder, two pounds; essence of roses, half an
ounce. Mix together the powders, and add to them a quart of rose water
in which has been dissolved an ounce of gum tragacanth. Rub up well in a
mortar, and of this paste form the pastilles. They are burned upon a
handsome chafing-dish or perfume-pan made for the purpose. 
 
 Fumigating Paper. --There are two modes of
preparing this article:--1.Take sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip
them into a solution of alum--say, alum, one ounce; water,
one pint. After they are thoroughly moistened, let them be well dried; upon one
side of this paper spread a mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin,
olibanum, and either balm of Tolu or Peruvian balsam; or the benzoin may
be used alone. To spread the gum, &c., it is necessary that they be melted
in an earthenware vessel, and poured thinly over the paper, finally
smoothing the surface with a hot spatula. When required for use, slips of this
paper are held over a candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the odorous
matter, but not to ignite it. The alum in the paper prevents it
to a certain extent from burning. 
 2. Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solution of
saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one
pint of water, to be afterwards thoroughly dried. 
 Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum, benzoin, &c.,
are to be dissolved to saturation in rectified spirit, and with a brush
spread upon one side of the paper, which, being hung up, rapidly
dries. 
 Slips of this paper are to be rolled up 
as spills, to be ignited, and then to be blown out. 
 The nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow combustion,
diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous gums. If
two of these sheets of paper be pressed together before the surface is
dry, they will join and become as one. When cut into slips, they form what are
called Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills.   FRAGRANT PASTILLES FOR
NECKLACES OR BRACELETS. 
 
 Pâte de Roses. --Rose leaves, two ounces;
lampblack, one and a half drachms; isinglass, one ounce; gum tragacanth,
half ounce. 
 Dissolve the gum and isinglass in boiling water, thicken the
solution by evaporation, and add thereto the other articles previously mixed
together. When the paste is homogeneous, knead it well in mass, and
divide into small beads. It can also be moulded into a variety of forms and
designs, in relief, resembling cameos and similar ornaments. 
 
 Pâte de Menthe ou de Jasmin. --Flowers of
mint or jasmine, one ounce; gum tragacanth, half ounce; vermillion,
two ounces. In this way red-colored pastilles are made. 
 
 Pastilles for Bad Breath. --Chocolate, three
ounces; charcoal, one ounce; sugar, one ounce; vanilla,
one ounce; mucilage, 
 quantum sufficit.  Make into lozenges of five grains,
and take four or five daily. 
 
 Preparation for Bad Breath. --Dry chloride of
lime, three drachms; distilled water, two ounces. 
 Powder the chloride of lime in a glass mortar, and then add a part of
the distilled water; stir up and let it repose for some minutes; when
settled, decant the clear liquor. Add a new quantity of water to the
residue, triturate, and after sufficient rest, again draw off the clear liquor.
Repeat this washing and decanting a third time; add all the clear solutions
together, and filter. To the liquid running through, add two ounces
alcohol, in which four drops oil of rose and four drops of any
other desired oil are dissolved. 
 The solution, thus prepared, removes the fetid odor of diseased gums. The
dose is half a table-spoonful in a tumbler of water, with which the gums
are moistened daily by means of a sponge or brush. 
 Keep the bottle always closely stoppered to retard decomposition. 
 
 Instantaneous Hair-dye. --This consists of two
mixtures in separate bottles; one is a solution of one part of nitrate of
silver in eight parts of water, and the other a weak solution of
hydrosulphuret of ammonia. Its influence is effected by moistening the
hair, first with the silver solution, and immediately afterwards with the
other. The color of the hair changes immediately into a black. 
 Delacroix's Hair-dye.--Acetate of lead, two ounces; prepared
chalk, three ounces; quicklime, four ounces. Use as above. 
 
 Litharge Hair Dye. --Powdered litharge, two pounds;
quicklime, half a pound; calcined magnesia, half a pound. Slake the
lime, using as little water as possible to make it disintegrate,
then mix the whole by a sieve. 
 
 Another Way. --Slaked lime, three pounds;
white lead in powder, two pounds; litharge, one pound. Mix by sifting,
bottle, and well cork. 
 
 Directions. --Mix the powder with enough water
to form a thick creamy fluid; with the aid of a small brush, completely cover
the hair to be dyed with this mixture; to dye a light brown, allow it to remain
on the hair four hours; dark brown, eight hours; black, twelve hours. As the
dye does not act unless it is moist; it is necessary to keep it so by  wearing an oiled silk, india-rubber, or other
waterproof cap. 
 After the hair is dyed, the refuse must be thoroughly washed from the
head with plain water; when dry the hair must be oiled. 
 
 Lead Dye. --Liquid hair dye, not to blacken
the skin, may be thus prepared:--Dissolve in one ounce of liquor potassa
as much freshly precipitated oxide of lead as it will take up, and
dilute the resulting clear solution with three ounces of distilled
water. Care must be taken not to wet the skin unnecessarily with
it. 
 
 Quick Depilatory or Rusma, (for removing hair.) --As.
the ladies of this country consider the growth of hair upon the upper lips,
upon the arms, and on the back of the neck, to be detrimental to beauty,
those who are troubled with such physical indications of good health and vital
stamina have long had recourse to rusma or depilatory for removing it. 
 This or analogous preparations were introduced into this country from the
East, rusma having been in use in the harems of Asia for many ages. Three
pounds best lime, slaked; half a pound of orpiment in powder. 
 
 Chinese Depilatory. --Quicklime, one pound;
pearlash and sulphuret of potassium, each, two ounces. Triturate
together, sieve, and preserve the fine powder in a well-stopped
bottle. 
 
 Crême Parisienne Depilatoire. --Take quicklime,
two ounces; orpiment (sulphuret of arsenic), half an ounce; alka-net in powder,
two drachms. 
 Mix together and pack up in bottles or boxes, bearing directions as follows,
and to be strictly conformed to in the application of the powder: 
 Put some pinches into a saucer or egg-glass, and pour upon it enough
warm water to thin it into a pasty or pap consistence, and apply it in
this form to the places to be depilated. Let it remain five to eight minutes,
then moisten with a little warm water, and gently remove the dampened
stuff with the point of a knife. Afterwards sponge the part with warm
water and dry without rubbing. 
 It is necessary that there should always be an interval of twenty-four hours
between any two applications of this powder. 
 
 Eau de Javelle (rectified.) --This water is
used both as a disinfectant, and for the removal of fruit, rust, and ink
stains. It is prepared by saturating an aqueous solution of potash with
chlorine gas. A few drops, washing the linen afterwards with soap, will
bleach it perfectly. 
 
 Ink for Marking Linen. --Sulphate of manganese, one
drachm; distilled water, one drachm; powdered sugar, two drachms;
lampblack, half a drachm. 
 Make into a semi-liquid paste. This paste is used with a
stamp. The mark is dried, then washed in solution of caustic potash and
dried anew; then again washed in water. The name now stands out
boldly. 
 
 Shaving Pastes. --White wax, spermaceti, and
almond oil, of each, quarter of an ounce; melt, and while warm, beat in
two squares of Windsor soap, previously reduced to a paste, with
rose water. 
 
 Another. --Melt together half an ounce each of
spermaceti, white wax, and oil of almonds; beat it up with three
ounces of the best soap, and a sufficient quantity of eau de
Cologne. 
  
Preparation of Good Hair Dye. --Ten grains gallic acid in one ounce
weak alcohol. 
 
 For the Dye. --Four grains nitrate of silver in one

ounce of water with half a drachm of aqua ammonia. 
 Add the ammonia cautiously till the precipitate dissolves.    THE FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 
 No directions here given are intended to supply the place of medical
attendance. A little medical knowledge is a dangerous thing, and this
temporizing with the constitution is often attended with the worst results. It
would, therefore, be an act of folly and danger for the non-professional to
presume to decide on the ailment, and equally so to prescribe for it. At the
same time, it is well to gain all the information possible. 
 The following recipes have been submitted to a physician:-- 
 
 For Hooping Cough.-- -Dissolve one scruple of
salt of tartar in a gill of soft water; add to it ten grains of
cochineal, finely powdered, and sweeten it with lump sugar. The
dose for an infant is a teaspoonful four times a day; from five years old
upwards, a table-spoonful may be taken. The following embrocation for spasmodic
coughs of all kinds, as well as for inflammatory croup, is valuable: Two
drachms of tincture of opium, two ounces of camphor liniment. A
teaspoonful to be rubbed in over the throat and chest every night and morning,
and cover the parts immediately with flannel. If the chest is loaded with
phlegm, a gentle emetic must be given once, twice, or three times a week, as
required. Ipecacuanha wine is most suitable, and the dose for a child of
four or five years is two and a half or three drachms. 
 During the first stages of this disorder the patient should breathe an equal
temperature, as nearly as it can be managed, not too warm and close, but equal;
and when the virulence of the disorder 
 has passed away,  the open air (if the weather be
mild) may be frequently resorted to: and a change of air, where it is
practicable, will often remove at once all remains of the complaint. 
 The diet is of paramount importance, and for children of even six and seven
years of age, ought to be little more than milk and broth. Should
the milk be found to curdle on the stomach, a little common salt
must be added. If thirst prevails, a little toast and water may
be given. If the attack, from its length and severity, should cause a loss of
strength, it will soon be recruited by a cold infusion of bark, gentle
exercise, pure air, and diet of nourishing broth. 
 
 Mixture for Hooping Cough. --Ipecacuanha wine,
two drachms; carbonate of soda, half a drachm; paregoric elixir,
two drachms; water, one ounce. A teaspoonful or two (according to the
age of the patient) may be given three times a day. 
 
 Scarlet Fever, or Scarlatina. --This disease begins
with the common symptoms of fever, often with languor and disposition to
fainting, shiverings, sickness, a quick pulse, and pain in the head;
there is frequently, very early in the disorder, a stiffness of the muscles of
the  neck, which is soon followed by some
difficulty in swallowing. 
 To determine the eruption to the surface of the body, it will be right to
give the simple saline, made as follows: Take of citric acid one drachm
and a half; bi carbonate of potash, two drachms; water, seven
ounces and a half; simple syrup, half an ounce; spirits of nitre,
two drachms. Mix, and take a sixth part every four hours. If the child is very
young, give half the dose. 
 Throughout the whole of this disease it will be advisable to make frequent
use of some detergent (cleansing) gargle, which in young children must be
thrown into the throat with a syringe. 
 
 Detergent Gargle. --Take of purified alum one
drachm; barley water, half a pint; honey of roses, one ounce. 
 
 Draught for Palpitation of the Heart, with great
nervous Irritability. --Tincture of foxglove, ten drops;
camphor mixture, one ounce; tincture of columba, one drachm. This
draught may be taken twice a day. 
 
 Mixture for Children Teething, when the Bowels are
disordered. --Chalk mix-ture, fifteen drachms; tincture of
cinnamon, one drachm. Mix together. Two teaspoonfuls to be given three or
four times a day as required. 
 
 Primrose Ointment, for Burns and Ulcers. --Bruise one
pound of the leaves of this well known plant, in a mortar, along with half a
pound of the flowers; simmer these in an equal quantity of hog's-lard,
without salt, until the prim-roses become crisp; after which the
oint-ment, whilst fluid, must be strained through a coarse sieve. This is an
excellent application for obstinate ulcers or burns. 
 
 Excellent Medicine for Indigestion. --Carbonate of
magnesia, one ounce; carbonate of soda, one ounce; powdered
ginger, one drachm; best Turkey rhubarb, half a drachm. Well
mixed in a mortar, to be kept in a bottle with a glass stopper. The dose for an
adult is half a teaspoonful. 
 
 For Inflammation of the Eyes. --Brandy, one
teaspoonful; white wine vinegar, one teaspoonful; soft water,
nine tea-spoonfuls. Mix--and to be used frequently. 
 
 Cure for Ringworm. --The head to be washed
twice a day with soft soap and warm soft water; when dried, the
places to be rubbed with a piece of linen rag dipped in ammonia
from gas tar; the patient should take a little sulphur and
molasses, or some other gentle aperient, every morning; brushes and
combs should be washed every day, and the ammonia kept tightly
corked. 
 
 Or: --Mix pyroligneous acid with one-third of
water; rub the spots carefully for three mornings: if cured, a scurf
will appear, which must be softened with cold cream, or lard
without salt, but no soap or water must be used. 
 It is desirable to cut off the hair from the immediate neighborhood of the
ring; and after the cure is effected, weaken the lotion still farther, by the
addition of more water, and well wash the head all over with it.
It seldom happens that an internal use of medicine is requisite; but where the
disease is very inveterate, I would recommend a powder to be given at bed-time,
once or twice. The following will answer very well for a child of seven years
of age: calomel, one grain; jalap, powder, eight grains. 
 The great Abernethy used to say poultices were blessings or curses, as they
I were made; I cannot, therefore, insert a more useful recipe than that of this
celebrated surgeon's for a well made 
 
 Bread and Water Poultice. --Scald
out  a basin, for you can never make a good
poultice unless you have perfectly boiling water; then having put some
into the basin, throw in coarsely-crumbled bread, and cover it with a
plate. When the bread has soaked up as much of the water as it
will imbibe, drain off the remaining water, and there will be left a
light pulp. Spread it a third of an inch thick on folded linen, and
apply it when of the temperature of a warm bath. It may be said that this
poultice will be very inconvenient, if there be no lard in it, for it
will soon get dry; but this is the very thing you want, and it can easily be
moistened by dropping warm water on it, whilst a greasy poultice will be
moist, but not wet. 
 A poultice thus made is, to the surgeon, what well made stock is to
the cooks, a foundation to be seasoned or medicined with laudanum, or
poppy-water, with carrot or horse-radish juice, or with
decoctions of herbs, with which the patient or the doctor may be
inclined to medicate it. 
 When vegetables are used to medicate poultices, they should be bruised, put
into a pot, covered with water, and simmered for about half an hour. The
liquid is then to be strained off, and mixed with bread-and-water
or linseed to the consistence of a poultice. 
 
 Spirit Wash. --Half a gill of spirits of
wine, or a gill of brandy, added to a pint of water, makes
this wash useful in allaying the pain of extensive bruises. 
 
 Intermittent Fever or Ague. --The title of
Intermittent is applied to that kind of fever which consists of a succession of
paroxysms, between each of which there is a distinct and perfect intermission
from fever symptoms. When it comes on within the space of twenty-four hours, it
is called a quotidian; when it returns every other day, it is called a tertian;
and when it attends on the first and fourth day, it is named a quartan ague. It
is very generally acknowledged, that marsh exhalations, or the effluvia arising
from stagnant water, when acted upon by heat, are the most frequent
exciting causes of ague. 
 
 Quinine,  or a preparation of arsenic, administered
under the prescription of a physician, will usually break the succession of
chills or of paroxysms. 
 
 Erysipelas. --This disease is an inflammatory
affection principally of the skin, when it makes its appearance
externally. If there is fever and inflammation, it will be proper to administer
aperient medicines, and nothing, perhaps, suits your purpose better than the
old-fashioned black-draught--senna and salts. The external application
of Goulard's Lotion will allay heat and irritation. The patient must drink
freely of tea, bran tea, or warm barley water, and this is
a necessary part of the treatment, which must never be neglected. The vesicles
must be kept lightly covered with pure, unadulterated wheat flour; when
the inflammatory symptoms run high, the diet must consist of light nourishing
food, such as sago, arrowroot, bread pudding, and such
like things; but in those cases where symptoms of irritation prevail, a more
generous diet, such as animal broths, ought to be allowed. 
 There is another species of erysipelatous inflammation, which usually
attacks the trunk of the body, and is vulgarly known as "Shingles." It consists
of a number of blisters extending round the waist. Little or no danger ever
attends this species of erysipelas; but much pain is felt darting through the
body, and these pains will continue to annoy the patient at times for some
weeks after the eruption has disappeared. 
 Draught to be taken on the approach of the warm stage in ague and
intermittent fevers, for an adult:--Tincture of  opium, fifteen drops; syrup of poppies, two
drachms; spirit of cinnamon, one drachm; water, one ounce. 
 
 Plummer's Pill, for Eruptions on the
Skin. --Calomel and antimony, of each, one drachm; guaiacum
powder, two drachms. 
 
 Useful Mixture for Diarrhoea in Infants. --Carbonate
of magnesia, half a drachm; rhubarb, in powder, twenty grains;
dill water, three ounces; aromatic spirit of ammonia, thirty
drops; sugar, teaspoonful. Mix: Two teaspoonfuls may be given two or
three times a day. 
 
 Goulard Lotion, or Lead Wash,  may be made by
dissolving one drachm of sugar of lead in a pint of soft water.
Some persons are very fond of using this wash, with the addition of spirits
of wine, as an evaporate, but I do not like it, for it renders the
skin very dry and harsh, and its sedative virtue acting through unbroken
skin, is not of much value. Under other circumstance it is very often
useful. 
 When used as a wash for the eyes, two grains of the sugar of lead are
to be dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of water. 
 
 Bran Tea. --A very cheap and useful drink in
colds, fevers, and restlessness from pain. Put a handful of bran in a pint and
a half of cold water, let it boil rather more than half an hour, then
strain it, and, if desired, flavor with sugar and lemon-juice;
but it is a pleasant drink without any addition. 
 
 Electuary for Scorbutic Eruptions. --Peruvian
bark, powdered, half an ounce; aromatic confection, half an ounce; syrup
of oranges, sufficient quantity to mix the bark and confection; and take
the size of a nutmeg, three times a day, in a glass of seidlitz or
soda water. 
 
 Draught for Hysteric Patients. --Camphor
mixture, one ounce; foetid spirit oi ammonia, two drachms. 
 
 Fever Draught. --Almond mixture, one ounce;
carbonate of potass, twenty grains; syrup of poppies, one drachm. Pour
into this a table-spoonful of lemon juice, and drink while
effervescing. 
 
 Ointments. --The base of all ointments is
grease, and they are used for dressing wounds and sores, to prevent the
sticking of the lint or linen with which they are covered, and protect them
from the air; the most simple kinds serve this purpose best; but sometimes
medicine of various kinds is mixed up with grease, to form ointments,
through the means of which the medicine acts on the surface of the sore. 
 
 Simple Ointment  is made by melting in a pipkin by
the side of the fire, without boiling, one part of yellow or white wax,
and two parts of hog's lard, without salt or olive
oil. 
 
 Resin Ointment or Yellow Basilicon  is
composed of two ounces of yellow wax, five ounces of white resin, and
seven ounces of hog's-lard; these must be slowly melted together, and
stirred constantly with a stick, till completely mixed. 
 This ointment is sometimes used in treating scalds and burns; also for
dressing blisters, when it is wished to keep up a discharge from them for a few
days. This is a stimulating ointment. 
 
 Galamine Ointment, or Turners Cerate,  consists of
half a pound of yellow wax, aand a pint of olive oil, which are to be
melted together; this being done, half a pound of calamine powder is to be
sifted in, and stirred till the whole be completely mixed. 
 This is an excellent ointment for stimulating sluggish wounds or sores. 
 
 Development of the Lungs. --Multitudes, and
especially ladies in easy circumstances, contract a vicious and destructive
mode of breathing, not carrying the breath half way down the chest, and  scarcely expanding the lower portions of the chest
at all. Children that move about a great deal in the open air, and are in no
way laced, breathe deep and full in the bottom of the chest, and every part of
it. The lungs give us the power of action, and the more exercise we
take, especially out of doors, the larger the lungs become, and the less
liable to disease. In all occupations that require standing, keep the person
straight. If at table, let it be high, raised up nearly to the armpits, so as
not to require you to stoop; you will find the employment much easier; while
the form of the chest and symmetry of the figure will remain perfect. 
 
 The Nettle Rash. --This disease takes its name from
its being attended by an eruption similar to what is produced by the stinging
of nettles. In some cases it is accompanied with large wheals or bumps, which
appear of a solid nature, without any cavity or head, containing either
water or other fluid. Nothing is so efficacious in this disorder as half
a teaspoonful of magnesia, and the same quantity of cream of
tartar, mixed in half a teacupful of milk, an hour before breakfast,
and repeated as required. 
 
 Sprain. --To treat a sprain properly, it should be
kept perfectly at rest; and, if it be of the ankle or knee, the patient must
lie in bed, or on a sofa. Warm, moist flannels should be repeatedly applied for
some hours, and a bread-and-water poultice on going to bed. These
should be continued for some days, and no attempt made to use the joint. If the
pain be very severe, and it continues so for the first or following days,
leeches may be applied, and repeated if necessary. Some persons are fond of
putting on a vinegar poultice at once; but this is better left alone
till the tenderness has subsided, and there remains only a little pain and
stiffness in the joint. Then a vinegar poultice is a very good
application, as it produces a diversion of the inflammation going on in the
ligaments, by bringing out a crop of pimples on the skin, at a time when
the pressure of rubbing in any stimulating lotion cannot be borne. 
 When the pain has entirely ceased, the joint must not be carelessly used;
and, if it be the knee or ankle sprained, walking till the joints become weak
and ache must be most carefully avoided, as irreparable mischief is thereby
very often caused. 
 A joint often swells a long time after a sprain; under which circumstances
it is best to bind it up with straps of soap-plaster or a roller. 
 
 Excellent Medicine for Rheumatism. --Powdered gum
guaiacum, eight grains; flour of sulphur, two drachms; powdered
rhubarb, fifteen grains; cream of tartar, one drachm; powdered
ginger, thirty grains; powdered nutmeg, eight grains. 
 To be made into an electuary, with two ounces of clarified honey; a
teaspoonful to be taken night and morning. 
 
 For Sprains and Bruises,  especially where the parts
are discolored with blood underneath the skin, and for rheumatic
swelling of the joints:--Vinegar, one pint; distilled water, half
a pint, rectified spirits, one and a half pints; camphor, two
ounces. 
 Mix the vinegar and water, dissolve the camphor in the
spirit of wine, and then put them all together. 
 For sprains, bruises, and other injuries, when the skin is not
broken, carbonate of ammonia, two ounces; vinegar, two pints;
proof spirit, three pints. 
 Mix the ammonia with the vinegar; when the effervescence
ceases, add the spirit. In inflammation of the joints of some standing,
this is mixed with linseed meal, and applied as a poultice, twice a-day. 
 
 Aperient Electuary. --A. very useful family  medicine, particularly good for those who are
troubled with asthma or rheumatism. One ounce of senna powder, half an
ounce of flour of sulphur, two drachms of powdered ginger, half a
drachm of saffron powder, four ounces of honey. The size of a
nutmeg to be taken night and morning. 
 
 For Heartburn. --Carbonate of magnesia, ten
grains; carbonate of soda, five grains; ginger in powder, five
grains; liquorice in powder, fifteen grains. Take as a powder two or
three times during the day. 
 
 Zinc Ointment  is made by rubbing well together one
ounce of oxide of zinc, and six ounces of hog's lard. This ointment is
useful for chilblains; it is also commonly used for dressing the sores
remaining after scalds and burns, to absorb the great discharge which generally
follows; and it is a very good application to cracked skin, from which a
watery fluid oozes and irritates the neighboring skin. 
 
 Leeches. --Leeches should be kept in a cool place, in
a stone or glass jar, filled with soft water, and tied over with coarse
muslin to prevent their escape, though it allows them air. The water
should be changed only when it begins to get foul, as too frequent disturbing
destroys them. The part on which they are to be applied should be carefully
wiped with a cool moist cloth, so as to leave it damp. If they do not take
readily, the part may be moistened with a little sugar and water,
or milk. But if this does not answer, the skin may be gently
scratched with a needle-point, till the blood comes, and then they will take.
If it be wished to put the leeches as near as possible on one spot, the best
plan is to put them all in the deep part of a pill-box, or in a small
wine-glass, which is to be turned down on the part. If you wish them to
spread over a large surface, as upon one of the limbs or the stomach, they must
be put on singly and by hand, which is often very tedious and tiresome work.
They should then be held tightly by the tail, wrapped in a piece of wet rag, so
that they may be less inconvenienced by the heat of the hand; and if the leech

do not soon fix, it is best to put it again into the water to cool
itself, and after applying others, to try it again. It is always best to have
more leeches than the number directed, in case some will not bite. 
 When the proper number have been applied, they should be left quite alone,
or they are apt to unfix, and, wandering about, arc of no further use. When
they have sucked their fill, they generally drop off, and should then be put in
a plate with a 
 little  salt, which quickly makes them throw
up the blood; and, as soon as they have emptied themselves, they should be put
into plenty of fresh cold water, so that they may get free from the
salt, for if left in it, or if 
 too much be put on them,  they contract violently,
and die almost immediately. 
 After the leeches have come off, the bleeding from the wounds is to be
encouraged, by first quickly sponging off whatever clotted blood there may be,
and then covering the part with a warm bread-and-water poultice,
which must be changed every half hour, so long as it may be thought necessary
to keep up the bleeding. This is much better than leaving the surface exposed,
and mopping with a warm sponge, which is very fatiguing to the patient, besides
exposing him to the danger of taking cold. 
 If a leech-bite continue bleeding for some hours, and the person, more
especially if an infant, begins to be very faint, and the countenance and lips
pallid and cold, like marble, no time must be lost in stopping the
bleeding. 
 This is done by pressure with the finger; but, if that fail, by applying
caustic, or by running a moderate-sized darning needle into the
skin on one side of the  bite, and bringing
its point well out on the other side. The whole wound is thus lifted up, and a
piece of silk or strong thread, is then to be wound round and round the bite,
under the two ends of the needle. This will raise it up like a small spot, and
generally stops the bleeding very effectually. In four days cut the silk and
draw out the needle carefully, and there the matter usually ends. But in a
peculiar state of constitution, sometimes even after the removal of the needle
and thread, the bleeding will continue. Nothing then remains, but to touch the
bottom of the wound with a bit of thin iron wire heated white-hot, which
never fails to stop the bleeding. Though this may seem a very horrible
proceeding, it is not very painful if the iron be white-hot, as it
destroys sensation in an instant; but whether it give pain or not is a matter
of no consequence, as it is the only sure mode of saving the patient. 
 
 Pimples. --A weak solution of sugar of lead or
sulphate of zinc may be used as a wash; if not effective, try--camphorated
spirit, two drachms, corrosive sublimate of mercury, one grain, rose
water or almond water half a pint, to be applied night and morning.
When there is great irritability of the skin, a decoction of the woody
nightshade may be used instead of the rose or almond-water. If pimples
arise from the condition of the blood, then cooling purgatives must be taken. A
Plummer's pill at night, and a teaspoonful of decoction of Sarsaparilla
twice a day with salts and senna once a week, are excellent
medicines. 
 
 For Chicken-Pox. --Let the patient partake
freely of water or cooling drinks, as thirst is always an attendant on
the disease, and gentle laxatives should be occasionally given,--a teaspoonful
of lenitive electuary with a little milk of sulphur in it, is all that
is generally required; but should febrile symptoms run high, it may be
advisable to take two or three saline draughts during the day. The following is
a recipe for an excellent saline, to be drunk while effervescing. Twenty grains
of carbonate of soda dissolved in a tumbler containing two
table-spoonfuls of water; add two teaspoonfuls of lump-sugar
rolled; then put a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice into a
wine-glass (or fifteen grains of citric acid dissolved in one
table-spoonful of water.) Pour it into the tumbler and drink it while
the effervescence is taking place. 
 
 Group. --The cause of this disease is a morbid
secretion of thick mucus in the trachea (windpipe), adhering so firmly to its
sides as to impede respiration. 
 A warm bath should immediately be administered, and an emetic given as soon
as possible; say, ten drops of antimonial wine for a child of three
years of age, and repeated every quarter of an hour, until effectual, and
according to the age and strength of the patient: a blister should be applied
across the throat, the sufferer being made to inhale the vapor of warm
water with vinegar in it, and kept nearly upright in bed. A doctor
should be procured as soon as possible. 
 Children liable to this disease should be warmly clad, wearing flannel next
the skin, and an emetic given upon the earliest appearance of the
attack. 
 
 Elder-flower Ointment  is the mildest,
blandest, and most cooling ointment, as the old women term it, which can be
used, and is very suitable for anointing the face or neck, when
sun-burnt. It is made of fresh Elder-flowers stripped from the stalks,
two pounds of which are simmered in an equal quantity of hog's lard till
they become crisp, after which the ointment, whilst fluid, is strained through
a coarse sieve.  
 
 Chilblains. --The mode of prevention of chilblains
will be at once perceived, viz.:--To protect the parts most liable to the
attack (hands and feet) from sudden alternations, either from cold to
heat, or from heat to cold. To keep the constitution in such a healthy state,
as to make all parts possess such vitality as to be able to resist slight
alternations in temperature. 
 Woollen stockings or socks, and warm boots and shoes, should be worn in the
street. Warm leather gloves are better for the hands than woollen ones, through
which the dry frosty air is apt to pierce and chap the hands. Tight wristbands,
tight garters, and boots that lace or button tightly about the ankles, must be
avoided. 
 The most frequent cause of chilblain is the warming of
numbed hands or feet at the fire.  A good constitutional remedy is
small doses of tartrate of antimony wine, which constringe the enlarged
vessels. A drachm of the wine may be added to half a pint of
water, in which a drachm of saltpetre has been dissolved. Dose:
for an adult one or two table-spoonfuls every four hours; for a child, one or
two teaspoonfuls three times a day. It should not be given in such doses as to
produce vomiting. The head, neck, and chest, should be washed in 
 cold  water every morning, and brisk exercise
taken at regular hours. 
 Wash the hands in cold water every three hours, and lather well with
Windsor soap. When the hands are nearly dried with the towel, pour a
little eau-de-Cologne, or milk of roses, into the palm of one hand, and
rub it over the whole of both. 
 A leech is a useful remedy to unload the overcharged blood-vessels; or the
part may be pricked with a needle, or punctured with a lancet; in such cases a
soft bread-and-water poultice should be kept on during the night,
applied warm, so as to encourage the flow of blood. 
 
 Household Remedies for Chilblains. -- The following
are among the most approved of the domestic remedies, or palliatives:-- 
 Take half an ounce of white wax, ox marrow one ounce, hog's
lard two ounces; melt these ingredients slowly over a fire in a pipkin, and
mix them well together; then strain through a linen cloth. Before going to bed,
spread the ointment upon the parts affected, feet or hands, taking care
to wrap them well up. The application should be made as soon as the first
attacks are felt. 
 Lemon juice rubbed on the inflamed parts is said to stop the itching.
A sliced onion dipped in salt has the same effect, but makes the
feet tender. 
 Strong white mustard, pounded and mixed with water to the
consistence of thick cream, rubbed on every night, letting it dry on the
chilblain, and washing it off in the morning with rain water. 
 Encourage children to use the 
 skipping rope  regularly during cold weather. This is
a capital prevention, together with regularly washing and rubbing the
feet. 
 
 Aperient for Children. --Gingerbread made with
oatmeal instead of flour is a very useful aperient for
children. 
 
 Spring Aperients;  for children, nothing is better
than:--1. Brimstone and molasses; to each teacupful of this, when
mixed, add a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. As this sometimes produces
sickness, the following may be used:--2. Take of tartrate of soda one
drachm and a half, powdered jalap and powdered rhubarb each
fifteen grains, ginger two grains. Mix. Dose for a child above five
years, one 
 small  teaspoonful; above ten years, a 
 large  teaspoonful; above fifteen, two; and for a
person above twenty, three teaspoonfuls, or the whole. 
 
 Aperient Pills. --To some adults all liquid medicines
produce such nausea that pills are the only form in which  laxative medicines can be exhibited; the following is a
usual formula:--Take of compound rhubarb pill, a drachm and one scruple;
of powdered ipecacuanha, six grains, and of extract of hyoscyamus one
scruple. Mix and beat into a mass, and divide into twenty-four pills. Take one,
or two, or if of a very costive habit, three at bed-time. 
 
 Infants' Aperient. --Take of rhubarb five
grains, magnesia three grains, white sugar a scruple, manna five
grains; mix. Dose, varying from a piece half the size of a sweet-pea to
a piece the size of an ordinary pea. 
 
 For Weak Eyes. --Two grains acetate of zinc, in two
ounces of rosewater; filter the liquor carefully, and wash the eyes
night and morning. 
 
 A Simple Vapor Bath. --It is not generally known that
the settlers in the remote parts of the West make use of the following simple
mode of procuring a vapor bath: The patient is enveloped in blankets, which are
closely fastened about the neck, leaving the head exposed. The
patient sits on a chair; under the chair is placed a basin or deep dish, with
half a pint of alcohol, whiskey or gin which is ignited.
The blankets lap over each other, enveloping the whole, and are closed to the
floor by other blankets, &c., as much as possible. In a very few minutes
the patient is in a profuse perspiration; he is then immediately put to bed
between warm blankets. 
 
 Ear Ache. --Sometimes ear-ache is
connected with chronic ulceration in the internal and external part of the
ear, when injections of warm water and soap are advisable.
In this case there is sometimes a constant foetid discharge, for which the
following mixture has been recommended:--Take of ox-gall, three drachms;
balsam of Peru, one drachm. Mix. A drop or two put into the ear with a
little cotton. 
 
 Pains after Exertion. --It is not generally known to
pedestrians that the pains in the knees and legs, which usually follow
after a long excursion, and which continue with some persons for two or three
days after, may be prevented or considerably lessened, by bathing the parts
affected in cold spring water, immediately before going to bed. Care
should be taken if the feet be dipped in the water, to afterwards
dry them thoroughly with a rough towel. 
 
 For a Cough. --Quarter of a pound of linseed; quarter
of a pound of raisins; two ounces of stick liquorice; two quarts
of soft water, to be boiled until reduced to half the quantity. When
strained, add a quarter of a pound of brown candy, pounded; one table-spoonful
of good old rum, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, or
vinegar. A cupful to be taken on going to bed, and more frequently if
required. To be warmed. 
 
 Nipple Liniment, by Dr. Sigerbundi. -- Aqueous
extract of opium, one grain; Fresh lime water, three drachms;
oil sweet almonds, fresh and cold pressed, three drachms. 
 Mix the whole, and preserve in a covered pot. The label should direct
the application of this liniment by means or very fine lint, and that the
nipples be covered with a piece of skin spread with wax, a hole being
left open in the centre to permit the free passage of the milk. 
 
 Pomade (for healing slight tumors.) -- White
pitch, pure, one pound; resin, one pound; yellow wax, one pound; gum
ammoniac, twelve ounces; oil of hemlock, four ounces. 
 Spread upon sheepskin, and apply the plaster to the sore. 
 
 Pomade Souveraine, by Laforet (for the Cure of
Corns.) --Take one ounce black 
{Illegible}itch, half an ounce galbanum, and one scruple of sal
ammoniac, dissolved in vinegar; add one and a half drachm
dia{Illegible}hylon. Take only sufficient to cover the corn, and spread
it upon a piece of {Illegible}heepskin. After some days remove the
{Illegible}laster, and the corn comes with it. 
 
 CéraFortifant (for the Nails.) --Oil of
{Illegible}entise, half an ounce; salt, half a drachm; {Illegible}esin,
one scruple; alum, one scruple; {Illegible}rax, one scruple. 
 
 English Court-Plaster. --Stretch upon {Illegible}
frame a piece of thin black silk, and with a camel's-hair brush pass over it
three or more coats of isinglass, dissolved in boiling water. To
give the silk an {Illegible}greeable odor, when applying the last
{Illegible}oat mix in a little compound tincture of
{Illegible}enzoin with the isinglass. 
 The color can be varied by taking silk {Illegible}f any desired shade. The
intervals between the application of the coats should be sufficiently long to
permit a thorough drying of each. 
 
 Collodion. --This is a liquid adhesive
{Illegible}laster, to be applied with the brush {Illegible}pon sores and cuts.
It is made by dissolving gun-cotton in rectified ether, mixed with one-eighth
its bulk of strong alcohol. A slight addition of Venice
{Illegible}urpentine increases its adhesiveness. 

 
 Toothache Collodion. --This is the plain
{Illegible}ollodion, holding in solution one grain of {Illegible}ulphate of
morphia to every ounce of {Illegible}quid. It is almost a specific for the
{Illegible}oothache, which results from an exposed {Illegible}erve. 
 
 Blistering Collodion. --The etherial ex{Illegible}act
of cantharides, dissolved in collosion, forms a most convenient, active, and
{Illegible}learly blistering liquid. If the blister {Illegible} opened at the
side, the film of collosion remains unbroken; and, by thus rotecting the sore,
obviates the necessity of dressing it with ointment. 
 
 For Burns. --Apply cotton wool
dip{Illegible}ed in oil as soon as possible, and keep it on till the
fire is entirely out, which will usually take from two days to a week. 
 
 For a Cut. --Wash off the blood in cold water,
and bind it up with a clean cotton bandage; if it inclines to bleed, put on
scraped lint, after bringing the edges of the wound together as closely as
possible, and bind it rather tight. Or use sticking-plaster. 
 
 When a Nail or Pin has been run into the
foot,  instantly bind on a rind of salt pork; if the
foot swell, bathe it in a strong decoction of wormwood, then bind
on another rind of pork, and keep quiet till the wound is well. The
lockjaw is often caused by such wounds, if neglected. 
 
 For a Bruise or Sprain. --Bathe the part in cold
water, till you can get ready a decoction of wormwood. This is one
of the best remedies for sprains and bruises. When the wormwood is fresh
gathered, pound the leaves and wet them either with water or
vinegar, and bind them on the bruise; when the herb is dry, put
it into cold water, and let it boil a short time, then bathe the bruise
and bind on the herb. 
 Always keep cotton wool, scraped lint and wormwood on
hand. 
 The 
 Ear-ache  is usually caused by a sudden cold.
Steam the head over hot herbs, bathe the feet, and put
into the ear cotton wool wet with sweet oil and
paregoric. 
 
 Prescription for Camphor Cake. -- Scrape into
an earthen vessel one ounce and a quarter of spermaceti and one ounce and a
half of white wax; add six drachms of powdered camphor, and four
table-spoonfuls of best olive oil. Let it stand near the fire until
dissolved, stirring it well. 
 
 Plaster for Pain in Side or Cough to be applied between the
shoulders. --One ounce burgundy pitch, one ounce beeswax,
one ounce and a half of resin, one  ounce
of camphor gum dissolved in two teaspoonfuls of brandy over a
slow fire. To be kept in tin boxes, and when used spread on kid. 
 
 The Cure of Intemperate Habits. --A notion prevails
that a person addicted to alcohol stimulants cannot at once leave them
off without danger of illness, or great and long-continued suffering, This is
an error. A cup of tea or coffee will supply the needed tonic
when a sense of exhaustion is felt, and we have the authority of an eminent
physician for stating that no constitutional injury will be suffered from
immediate and total abstinence. The uncomfortable feelings will subside in
forty-eight hours, and will be 
 entirely over in a fortnight.  Any man who has firm
resolution can break himself at once of the fatal habit of drinking.    MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 
 
 To take Stains out of Linen. --For acid stains, wet
the part, and lay on it salt of wormwood; then rub it, and hold the part
over a lighted match, for the sulphurous gas; or, tie up pearlash in the
stained part; scrape soap into cold water, for a lather, and boil
the linen till the stain disappear. 
 Stains of wine or fruit that have been long in the linen may
be removed by rubbing the part on each side with yellow soap, then
laying on a mixture of thick starch in cold water, rubbing it
well in, and exposing the linen to the sun and air till the stain comes out.
The process may be renewed, and, when dry, sprinkle the part with water.
Stains may be taken out by dipping the linen in sour buttermilk and
drying in a hot sun. Then wash in cold water and dry it several times a
day. 
 A 
 certain  way of extracting fruit or
wine stains from table linen is to tie up some cream of tartar in
the stained part (so as to form a sort of bag), and then to put the linen into
a lather of soap and cold water, and boil it awhile. Then
transfer it wet to lukewarm suds, wash and rinse it well, and dry and
iron it. The stains will disappear during the process. Another way is to mix,
in equal quantities, soft soap, slaked lime, and pearlash.
Rub the stain with this preparation, and expose the linen to the sun with the
mixture plastered on it. If necessary, repeat the application. As soon as the
stain has disappeared, wash out the linen immediately, as it will be injured if
the mixture is left in it. 
 Iron moulds may be wet, kid on a hot water plate, and a little
salt of lemon applied. Wet and renew the process. Be careful not to have the
application too strong. Oxalic acid will effectually remove the stains. Mildew
may be taken out by mixing soft soap with powdered starch, half
as much salt, and the juice of a lemon; lay it on both sides of
the part, and leave it on the grass day and night. To prevent flannels from
shrinking or losing their color, put them into a pail the first time of
washing, and pour boiling water on them, letting them lie till cold. 
 Remove ink spots by soaking the part in milk immediately; then wash
out in cold water without soap. 
 
 To destroy Crickets. --Put Scotch snuff upon
their holes. Cockroaches may be banished by red wafers. Paint is destructive to
all insects, and so is'lime. 
 
 Polish for Tables. --One pint of linseed oil,
half a pint of turpentine, two ounces of beeswax, sixpence worth of
white rosin. Boil the mixture in a saucepan, and put it in a bottle for
use. 
 
 Varnish for Mahogany. --One pint of linseed
oil, a wine glass of spirits of turpentine; simmer it slowly
till near coming  to a boil. Take all the stains
out of the mahogany, and clean it perfectly. When dry brush it with a feather
dipped in the bottled mixture. Rub it some time with soft linen; then take a
clean housecloth and rub off the oil, continue rubbing till the table
would not soil a cambric handkerchief. 
 Instead of covering your glasses and pictures with muslin, coyer the frames
only with cheap yellow cambric, neatly put on, and as near the color of the
gilt as possible. This leaves the glasses open, and is a barrier to dust and
flies. When faded, it can be recolored with saffron tea. 
 When mattresses become hard and bunchy, rip them, take out the hair,
pull it thoroughly, let it lie a day or two to air, wash the tick, lay in the
hair as light and even as possible, and stitch it down as before. The mattress
will be as good as new. 
 Britannia ware should be first rubbed gently with a woollen cloth and
sweet oil, then washed in warm suds and rubbed with soft leather
and whiting. Thus treated, it will retain its beauty to the last. 
 
 To clean Sponges. --When very foul wash them in
diluted tartaric acid, rinsing them afterwards in water; it will
make them very soft and white. Be careful to dilute the acid well, as it
is very corrosive and therefore should be weak. 
 
 For outside Paint. --But ten gallons of raw
linseed oil in a kettle over a slow fire, and let it simmer gently. Add
four ounces sugar of lead. Stir up, and when cold, it is fit to use as
boiled oil or varnish. 
 Take of yellow ochre fifteen pounds, of white lead ten pounds, of
burnt umber one pound, of Indian red two pounds. this will make a
beautiful chocolate color. Add to it half a pound of dry ground
litharge. 
 Stir it up well, and when well stirred add oil according to
judgment--about two gallons. 
 Green tea is good to restore rusty silk. It should be boiled in
iron--a cupful to three quarts. The silk should not be wrung, but ironed
damp. 
 Lime sifted through coarse muslin, and stirred pretty thick with
white of egg, makes a strong cement for glass or china. Plaster of
Paris, pulverized, is still better, and should be stirred by the spoonful
as it is wanted. 
 The best way to clean gold is to wash it in warm suds made of
delicate soap, with ten or fifteen drops sal volatile in it. This
makes jewelry very brilliant. 
 Rye paste is more adhesive than any other, and is much improved by
adding a little pounded alum while it is boiling. 
 Straw matting should be washed in salt and water, and dried with a
coarse towel. The salt prevents their turning yellow. 
 Skimmed milk and water, with a bit of glue in it,
heated scalding hot, is excellent to restore old, rusty, black Italian crape.
If clapped and pulled dry, it will look as well as new. 
 Washleather gloves should be washed in clean tepid suds. 
 If you are troubled to get soft water for washing, fill a tub or
barrel half full of wood ashes, and fill it with water to make
lye. A gallon of strong lye put into a great kettle of hard water will
make it soft as rain water. Pearlash or potash is used,
but costs something, and is apt to injure the texture of the cloth. 
 In May and June, the little millers that lay moth eggs, begin to
appear. Brush your woollens and beat out your furs, and pack them away in a
dark place covered with linen, pepper, red cedar chips,
tobacco, and best of all  camphor,
or any strong spicy smell, will keep moths out of your chests and drawers. Sew
the things tightly up in linen, leaving no room for the insect to enter. 
 Save phials and bottles; apothecaries and grocers will give something for
them. 
 Woollens should be washed in very hot suds, and not rinsed;
lukewarm water shrinks them. Silk should be washed in water
almost cold; hot water turns it yellow. It may be washed in suds
made of white soap; but no soap should be put on it. It will not
do to smooth all silk with a hot iron; either rub it dry with a soft cloth, or
put it between towels, and press it with weights. 
 
 To take spots out of Cloth. --Sal ammoniac,
one ounce; rectified spirit, two wine-glasses full; aqua
distillata, one and a half pints. Apply with a sponge. 
 
 Recipe for Ink. --Half a pint of good stale
beer, two ounces of galls, half an ounce of copperas, half
an ounce of gum arabic pulverized, a quarter of an ounce of rock
alum. This is to be kept in a pitcher close to the fire for a week,
frequently stirred with a stick, and slightly covered with a large cork. The
ink will never mould nor lose its color or substance. It will bear half
as much beer for future use. If it thickens, thin it with
beer. 
 
 To take an impression from a Writing. --Add a little
sugar to the ink you write with, then lay a sheet of thin unsized
paper, damped with a sponge, upon the writing, and pass over it, very
lightly, a flat smoothing-iron, moderately heated. 
 
 To sweeten Casks. --When musty it is best to unhead
large casks, and whitewash them with quicklime. Or they may be matched with
sulphur mixed with a little nitrate of potash, and afterwards
well washed. Small casks may be sweetened by washing them first with
sulphuric acid, and then with clean water. 
 
 To preserve Brass Ornaments. --Beat sal
ammoniac into a fine powder, then moisten it with soft water,
rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be heated over charcoal, and
rubbed dry with bran and whiting. 
 
 To color Harness. --The color of harness that has
become rusty or brown by wear may be restored to a fine black, after the dirt
has been sponged off. Boil logwood chips in three quarts of soft
water, to which add three ounces of nut-galls finely powdered, and
one ounce of alum; simmer the whole together for half an hour, and it
will be fit for use. A harness blacking is thus made: Melt two ounces of
mutton suet with six ounces of beeswax, then add one ounce of
indigo, finely powdered, six ounces of sugar-candy, dissolved in
water, and two ounces of soft soap; mix, and simmer over the
fire, when add a gill of turpentine. Lay it on with a sponge, and then
polish. 
 
 To preserve Polished Irons from
Rust. --Polished iron-work may be preserved from rust by a mixture of
copal varnish with as much olive oil as will give it a degree of
greasiness, adding as much spirit of turpentine as of varnish. The
cast-iron work is best preserved by rubbing it with black-lead. But where rust
has begun to make its appearance on grates or fire-irons, apply tripoli with
half its quantity of sulphur, intimately mingled on a marble slab, and
laid on with a piece of soft leather: or emery and oil may be
applied with excellent effect. 
 
 To clean Kid Gloves. --First see that your hands are
clean, then put on the gloves and wash them, as though you were washing your
hands, in a basin of spirits of turpentine, until quite clean;  then hang them up in a warm place, or where there is
a good current of air, which will carry off all the smell of the turpentine.
This method was brought from Paris, and thousands of pounds have been made by
it. 
 
 To clean German Silver. --After using, it should be
placed immediately in hot water, washed well, and wiped dry with a soft
cloth. Once a week let it be washed in soap-suds, and then cleaned with
fine whiting, or prepared chalk, mixed with whiskey or
spirits of wine, so as to make a paste, which should afterwards
be brushed off. Should this metal become discolored, or spotted by
vinegar or other acids, wash it first, and then clean it with sweet
oil and powdered rotten-stone. 
 
 Blacking. --The best blacking for preserving the
leather of boots and shoes, and which will make it perfectly watertight, is the
following:--Take of yellow was one ounce and a half, of mutton suet four
ounces and a half, horse turpentine half an ounce, ivory black three
ounces; melt first the wax, to which add the suet, and afterwards the
horse turpentine; when the whole is melted remove it from the fire; mix in
gradually the ivory black, constantly stirring till it is cold. This
composition is sometimes run into moulds, and sold under the name of blacking
balls; when it is used it may be laid or rubbed upon a brush which should be
warmed before the fire; it is also the best blacking for every kind of harness;
when it is wanted in a large quantity, it may be gently melted in a ladle or
pot over a chafing-dish with live coals. 
 
 To preserve Picture Frames. --Varnish the
frames with water in which onions have been boiled. 
 
 To clean a Carpet. --Beat the carpet free from dust,
and lay it down. To two gallons of water put two ox-galls. Rub it
on the carpet with a hand scrubbing-brush. 
 
 To clean Silk. --Pare and slice thin three washed
potatoes. Pour on them half a pint of boiling water, and let it stand
till cold. Strain the water, and add an equal quantity of
alcohol. Sponge the silk on the right side, and when half dry, iron it
on the wrong side. The lightest colored silk may be cleaned and brightened by
this process; also cloth, velvet, or crape. To iron velvet--lay a damp towel
over the bottom of a hot smoothing iron; put on it the wrong side of the
velvet, and pass a whisk brush over the pile till the surface is free from
wrinkles. 
 
 To renew scorched or browned Linen. -- This is an
accident attributable entirely to the ignorance of the laundress, in not
knowing how to regulate the heat of her irons. To remedy this:--Add to a quart
of vinegar the juice of half a dozen large onions, about
an ounce of soap rasped down, a quarter of a pound of fullers' earth,
one ounce of lime, and one ounce of pearlash, or any other strong
alkali. Boil the whole until it is pretty thick, and lay some of it on the
scorched part, suffering it to dry. Repeat this process for one or two
washings. 
 
 To extract grease spots from Silks, Muslins,
&c. --Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease spot,
and hold it near the fire, or over a warm iron or water-plate, filled
with boiling water. The grease will melt, and the French
chalk absorb it; brush or rub it off; repeat if necessary. Camphene will
remove grease also. 
 
 To clean Marble. --Take two parts of common
soda, one part of pumice-stone, and one part of finely powdered
chalk; sift it through a fine sieve, and mix it with water; then rub
it well all over the marble, and the stains will be removed; then wash the
marble over with soap and water, and it will be as clean as it
was at first. 
 
 To take oil and grease out of Boards, Marble,
&c. --Make a paste with fullers' 
earth and hot water; cover the spots therewith, let it dry on, and the
next day scour it off with soft or yellow soap. 
 
 Or: --Make a paste with soft soap,
fullers' earth, and a little pearlash, and use it as above. 
 
 To clean Buckskin Gloves. --First wash in warm
water and soap, until the dirt is removed; then pull them out into
their proper shape, or stretch them on wooden hands. Mix a little
pipe-clay, or pipeclay and yellow ochre, according to the color
required, with vinegar or beer. Bub this over the outside of the
gloves, and let them dry gradually in the shade; or if in the house, not too
near the fire. When about half dry, rub them well, and stretch them on the hand
or wooden mould; after they are rubbed and dried, brush them with a soft brush
to get out the dust. Finally, iron the gloves with a smoothing iron moderately
heated, taking the precaution to place a cloth or piece of paper over
them, and they will look like new. 
 
 To make an efficacious and durable
Paste. --Good and durable paste may be made with
flour in the usual way, but rather thick, with a proportion of brown
sugar and a small quantity of corrosive sublimate. A drop or two of the
essential oil of lavender, peppermint, anise, or
bergamot, is a complete security against moulding. Paste made in
this manner, if kept in a close covered pot, may be preserved in a state fit
for use at all times. 
 
 To make Blue Ink. --Dissolve a small quantity of
indigo in a little oil of vitriol, and add a sufficient quantity
of water, in which is dissolved some gum arabic. 
 
 To remove Ink-stains from Printed Books,
&c. --Procure a little oxalic acid, which dissolve in a small
quantity of warm water, then slightly wet the stain with it, when it
will disappear, leaving the text uninjured. 
 
 To paint Silver Flowers on Silk. --Paint flowers,
leaves, &c., on white silk, with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in a
solution of nitrate of silver: immerse this while wet in a jar of sulphuric
acid gas, by burning sulphur in a jar of atmospheric air. The
drawing will have a beautiful silvery appearance. 
 
 To remove Ink or Fruit Stains from the
Fingers. --Cream of tartar, half an ounce; powdered salt of
sorrel, half an ounce--mix. This is what is sold for salt of
lemons. 
 
 To clean Tin Covers. --Boil some rottenstone and a
small quantity of prepared whiting in some sweet oil for two
hours, till it acquires the consistency of cream. 
 
 To perfume Linen. --Rose-leaves dried in the shade,
or at about four feet from a stove, one pound; cloves,
caraway-seeds, and allspice, of each one ounce; pound in a
mortar, or grind in a mill; dried salt, a quarter of a pound; mix all
these together, and put the compound into little bags. 
 
 To prevent Colored Things from Running. --Boil a
quarter of a pound of soap till nearly dissolved, then add a small piece
of alum and boil with it. Wash the things in this lather, but do not
soap them. If they require a second water, put alum to
that also as well as to the rinsing and blue water. This will
preserve them. 
 
 To preserve Pencil Marks. --If you have
anything drawn or written with a lead pencil that you wish to
preserve from rubbing out, dip the paper into a dish of skimmed
milk. Then dry it, and iron it quickly on the wrong side. 
 
 To dry Plants for Preservation. --The following
improved method of drying plants is the result of much experience:--The plants
you wish to preserve should be gathered when the weather is dry, and
after placing the ends in water, let them remain in a cool place till
the next  day. When about to be submitted to the
process of drying, place each plant between several sheets of
blotting-paper, and iron it with a large smooth heater pretty strongly
warmed, till all the moisture is dissipated. Colors may thus be fixed, which
otherwise become pale, or nearly white. 
 
 To wash White Silk Lace or Blonde. -- Take a
black bottle covered with clean linen or muslin, and wind the blonde round it,
(securing the ends with a needle or thread,) not leaving the edge outward, but
covering it as you proceed. Set the bottle upright in a strong cold lather of
white soap and soft water, and place it in the sun, having gently
rubbed the suds up and down on the lace. Keep it in the sun every day
for a week, changing the lather daily, and always rubbing it slightly when you
renew the suds. At the end of the week, take the blonde off the bottle,
and (without rinsing) pin it backward and forward on a large pillow. The pins
should be of the smallest size. When quite dry, take it off, but do not
starch, iron, or press it. Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away
in a pasteboard box. Thread lace may be washed in the same manner. 
 
 To clean Silver. --Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of
powdered alum in a quart of moderately strong lye, stir in a gill of
soft soap, and remove the scum or dross that may rise to the surface.
After washing the silver in hot water, take a sponge and cover every
article with this mixture. Let the things rest about a quarter of an hour,
frequently turning them. Next wash them off in warm soap-suds, and wipe
them dry with a soft cloth. Afterwards brighten them with rouge powder, or with
whiting and spirits of wine. 
 
 Preserving the Color of Dresses. -- The colors of
merinos, mousseline-delaines, ginghams, chintzes, printed lawns, &c., may
be preserved by using water that is only milk-warm; making a
lather with white soap, 
 before  you put in the dress, instead of rubbing it
on the material; and stirring into a first and second tub of water a
large tablespoonful of ox-gall, No colored articles should be allowed to
remain long in the water. They must be washed fast, and then rinsed
through cold waters. Into each rinsing water stir a teaspoonful of
vinegar, which will help to brighten the colors; and after rinsing, hang
them out immediately. If they cannot be conveniently ironed at once, let them
hang till they are quite dry; and then damp and fold them on the 
 following day,  a quarter of an hour before ironing.
We need scarcely say that no colored articles should ever be boiled or
scalded. 
 
 To wash Ribbons, Silk Handkerchiefs, &c. --A good
satin ribbon may be made to look very well by washing it first in cold
water, to which add a few drops of spirits of wine; then in a lather
of white soap, and lukewarm water; afterwards rinse it in cold
water, pull it even, and dry it gradually. When dry, stretch out the
ribbon, and sponge it with a weak solution of isinglass or
rice-water, to restore the stiffness and gloss. To iron the ribbon, lay
it within a sheet of clean smooth letter paper (the paper being
both under and over it), and press it with a heated iron moved quickly. If the
color is lilac, add a little dissolved pearlash to the rinsing
water. If green, a little vinegar. If pink, or blue, a few drops
of oil of vitriol. If yellow, a little tincture of saffron. Other
colors may be set by stirring a teaspoonful of ox-gall into the first
water. If white, a saltspoonful of cream of tartar mixed
with the soapsuds. Unfigured silk handkerchiefs and scarfs may be washed and
ironed in the above manner. The proportion of spirits of wine is about a
tablespoonful to a gallon of water. 
 
 To clean White or Colored Kid Gloves.   --Put the glove on your hand, then take a small
piece of flannel, dip it in camphene, and well but gently rub it over the
glove, 
 taking care not to make it too wet.  When the dirt is
removed, dip the flannel (or another piece if that is become dirty) into
pipe-clay and rub it over the glove; take it off, and hang it up in a
room to dry, and in a day or two very little smell will remain; and if done
carefully they will be almost as good as new. In colored ones, if yellow, use
gamboge after the pipeclay, and for other colors match it in dry paint. 
 
 Sympathetic Inks. --These are preparations used for
writing on paper, the marks of which are invisible until acted upon by
some agent. They are frequently employed in secret or playful correspondence.
By heating the paper until it is nearly scorched, they may be rendered
visible. 
 Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac equal parts, dissolved in
water or onion juice, writes colorless, but turns yellow when
heated. 
 A weak infusion of galls turns black when moistened with weak
copperas water. 
 The diluted solutions of nitrate of silver and terchloride of gold darken
when exposed to the sunlight. 
 Aquafortis, spirits of salts, oil of vitriol, common
salt, or salpetre, dissolved in a large quantity of water, turn
yellow or brown when heated. 
 Solution of nitromuriate of cobalt turns green when heated, and disappears
again on cooling. 
 Solution of acetate of cobalt, to which a little nitre has been added,
becomes rose-colored when heated, and disappears when cooling. 
 
 To make a common Knife-Board. --Cover with thick buff
leather, on which are put emery one part, crocus martis three parts, in
very fine powder, mixed into a thick paste, with a little lard or
sweet oil, and spread on the leather to the thickness of a shilling. It
gives a far superior edge and polish to knives, and will not wear the knife
near so much as the common method of using brick-dust on a board. 
 
 Harness-makers' Jet. --Take one drachm of
indigo, a quarter of an ounce of isinglass, half an ounce of
soap, four ounces of glue, one pennyworth of logwood
raspings, and one quart of vinegar; boil the whole together over a slow
fire till reduced to one pint. A small quantity is then to be taken up on a
clean sponge, and thinly applied to harness, boots, &c. --taking care that
they are previously well cleaned. 
 
 To restore the Color of Mahogany. -- Wash well with
soap and water, and then polish daily with the following
oil:-- Take half an ounce of alkanet root, cut small, and add to a pint
of linseed oil; when this has stood for a week, add half an ounce of
powdered gum arabic, and an ounce of shellac varnish; let these stand in
a bottle by the fire for a week, then strain. Rub well in. 
 
 Cement for the Mouths of Corked Bottles. --Melt
together a quarter of a pound of sealing wax, the same quantity of rosin, a
couple of ounces of beeswax. When it froths, stir it with a
tallow candle. As soon as it melts, dip the mouths of the corked bottles
into it. This is an excellent thing to exclude the air from such things as are
injured by being exposed to it. 
 
 To take Impressions of Leaves. --A very beautiful and
cheap way of taking impressions of leaves is to take a small quantity of
bichromate of potash, (say a teaspoonful,) which may be had at any
druggist's; dissolve it in a saucer full of water, then pass the pieces
of paper on which the impressions are to be taken through the solution,
and while  wet, press the leaves, &c., lightly
upon it, and expose it to the sun, which should be shining powerfully. When
perfectly dry, remove the leaves, and a perfect facsimile will remain in a
light lemon shade, while the rest of the paper will be of a dark
brown tint. Bichrome, as it is generally term, is in dark yellow crystals,
which should be powdered previous to using it. 
 
 To wash a White Lace Veil. --Put the veil into
a strong lather of white soap, and very clear water, and let it
simmer slowly for a quarter of an hour. Take it out and squeeze but not rub it.
Rinse it in two cold waters, with a drop or two of liquid blue in the last.
Have ready some very clear and weak gum arabic water, or some thin
starch, or rice-water. Pass the veil through it, and clear it by
clapping. Then stretch it out even, and pin it to dry on a linen cloth, making
the edge as straight as possible, opening out all the scallops, and
fastening each with pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin smoothly over
it, and iron it on the wrong side. 
 
 To clean Freestone. --Wash the hearth with
soap, and wipe it with a wet cloth. Or rub it over with a little
freestone powder, after washing the hearth in hot water. Brush
off the powder when dry. 
 
 To black a Brick Hearth. --Mix some black lead
with soft soap and a little water, and boil it--then lay it on
with a brush. Or mix the lead with water only. 
 
 To clean Brass. --Rub it over with a bit of flannel
dipped in sweet oil--then rub it hard with finely powdered
rotten-stone--then rub it with a soft linen cloth--and polish with a bit
of wash leather. 
 
 Rub creaking hinges  with soft soap. 
 
 Common Tins. --Throw some wood-ashes into a
wash-kettle, pour on water till it is two-thirds full, and then let it
boil. Or make a strong lye. Dip in the tins when it is boiling hot; and, if
they are very dirty, leave them in about ten minutes. Take them out, and cover
them with a mixture of soft soap and the very finest sand. This must be
rubbed on with a coarse tow-cloth. Then rinse them in a tub of cold
water, and set them in the sun to drain and dry. When dry, finish by
rubbing them well with a clean woollen cloth or flannel. They will look very
nice and bright. You may clean pewter in the same manner. 
 
 To clean Alabaster. --Make a mixture, in the
proportion of two ounces of aquafortis to a pint of cold water, which
ought to be filtered. Dip a clean brush in this liquid, and wash the alabaster
with it for five minutes or more. There should be a brush small enough to go in
the most minute parts. Then rinse it with cold clear water, and set in
the sun for two or three hours to dry. The aquafortis will make the alabaster
very white. Soap should never be used. 
 
 Cleaning Japanned Waiters, Urns, &c. --Rub on
with a sponge a little white soap and some lukewarm water, and
wash the waiter or urn quite clean. Never use hot water, as it will
cause the japan to scale off. Having wiped it dry, sprinkle a little
flour over it; let it rest awhile, and then rub it with a soft dry
cloth, and finish with a silk handkerchief. If there are white heat
marks on the waiters, they will be difficult to remove. But you may try rubbing
them with a flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards in spirits of
wine. Waiters and other articles of 
 papier maché  should be washed with a sponge
and cold water, without soap, dredged with flour while
damp; arid after a while wiped off, and then polished with a silk
handkerchief. 
 
 Cheap Contrivance for Filtering. --A  very cheap and good contrivance for filtering is to take a
large garden flowerpot, and lay in the bottom a piece of sponge, so as to cover
the whole. Upon this put a few smooth clean pebbles, to keep the sponge in its
place, and fill up the pot, to within two or three inches of the brim, with a
mixture of one part of powdered charcoal to two parts of fine sharp
sand. Then cover the top of the pot with a piece of clean white flannel,
tied tightly round the rim with a twine, but so as to sink or sway down in the
centre. Set the flower-pot in a pan or tub, and pour the water into the
flannel, letting it filter through the charcoal, &c., and, by the
time it has passed through the sponge, and come out at the bottom, it will be
clear. 
 
 Knives and Forks. --Handles of ebony should be
cleaned with a soft cloth, dipped in a little sweet oil; and after
resting awhile with the oil on them, let them be well wiped with a clean
towel. Ivory or bone handles ought to be washed with a soaped flannel
and lukewarm water, and then wiped with a dry towel. To preserve
or restore their whiteness, soak them occasionally in alum-water that
has been boiled and then grown cold. Let them lie for an hour in a vessel of
this alum-water. Then take them out, and brush them well with a small
brush (a tooth-brush will do), and afterwards take a clean linen towel, dip it
in cold water, squeeze it out; and, while wet, wrap it round the
handles, leaving them in it to dry gradually,--as, if dried too fast, out of
the alum-water, they will be injured. If properly managed, this process
will make them very white. 
 
 To clean Black Lace Veils. --These are cleansed by
passing them through a warm liquor of bullock's gall and water;
after which they must be rinsed in cold water, then cleansed for
stiffening and finished as follows: Take a small piece of glue, about
the size of a bean, pour boiling water upon it, which will
dissolve it, and when dissolved, pass the veil through it, then clap it between
your hands. 
 
 To take out paint from a dress. -- When fresh (having
wiped off as much as you can), it may be taken out by repeated applications of
spirits of turpentine or of spirits of wine, rubbed with a soft
rag or a flannel. Ether also will efface it, if applied immediately. If the
paint has been allowed to harden, nothing will take it off but spirits of
turpentine, rubbed on with perseverance. 
 
 Indelible Marking Ink without preparation. --One
drachm and a half nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), one ounce distilled
water, half an ounce strong mucilage of gum arabic,
three-quarters of a drachm of liquid ammonia; mix the above in a clean
glass bottle, cork tightly, and keep in a dark place till dissolved, and ever
afterwards. Directions for use:-- Shake the bottle, then dip a clean quill pen
in the ink, and write or draw what you require on the article; immediately hold
it close to the fire, or pass a hot iron over it, and it will become a deep and
indelible black, indestructible by either time or acids. 
 
 To take Impressions of Butterflies'
Wings. --Clip the wings of the butterfly. Lay them on
clean paper, in the form of a butterfly, when flying. Spread some thick
clean gum water on another piece of paper, press it on the
wings, and it will take them up; lay a piece of white paper over
it, and rub it gently with your finger. Then draw the body in the space left
between the wings. 
 
 Clothes Sails. --Take four ounces of fuller's earth,
dried so as to crumble into powder, and mix with it half an ounce of
pearlash. Wet it with a sufficiency of lemon-juice to work it
into a stiff paste. Then form it into balls, and dry  them in the sun, or on the top of a moderately warm stove.
When quite dry put them away for use. They will be found efficacious in
removing grease spots and stains from articles of clothing, first
wetting the spot with cold water, and then rubbing on the ball;
afterwards drying the place in the sun or by the fire, and then washing it off
with a sponge and clean water. 
 
 Fine Home-Made Candles. --Take ten ounces of fresh
mutton fat or suet, a quarter of a pound of bleached white
wax, a quarter of an ounce of camphor, and two ounces of alum.
Cut or break up all these articles, and then melt them together, skimming them
well. Have ready the wicks (which should be previously soaked in
lime-water and saltpetre, and then thoroughly dried), fix them in
the moulds, and pour in the melted liquid, proceeding as in making common mould
candles. Candles made in this manner of the above materials, are hard
and durable, and will not run; burning also with a very clear light. 
 
 Packing Household Articles. --In packing for the
removal of a family to a distant place, let all the boxes and trunks be
numbered, and the numbers put down in a book; let some one who overlooks the
whole of the packing, set down every article, denoting the exact box or trunk
in which it is placed, and the order in which the things are put in, beginning
with those at the bottom. By this means, after arriving at the place of
destination, you will know, by consulting your book, where to find whatever you
want; and which of the boxes it will be best to open first. Also, in a long sea
voyage, if there is occasion to have a trunk brought from the hold to get out
of it any particular article, your book will tell exactly in which of your
trunks the article is. 
 
 To wash Vials. --Put into a washkettle some sifted
ashes, and pour on it cold water. Then put in the vials (without
corks), place the kettle over the fire, and let it gradually come to a boil.
After it has boiled awhile, take it off, and set it aside; letting the vials
remain in it till cold. Then take them out, rinse, drain them, and wipe the
outsides. You may wash black bottles in the same manner. If you have occasion
to wash a single vial or bottle, pour into it through a small funnel either
some lye, or some lukewarm water in which a little pearlash has
been dissolved; shake, let it stand awhile to soak. Then rinse it well in
cold water, two or three times. If it still smells of the former
contents, soak it in more pearl-ash water (with the addition of a little
lime), or in more lye. 
 
 Cleaning Kettles and Saucepans. --A receipt for
cleaning the inside of kettles or saucepans of the hard, stony
substance, resulting from continually boiling hard water:--In a
kettle of boiling water, put about the sixteenth part of an ounce of
sal-ammonia. Let it boil one hour, and then the substance will be
dissolved, and is readily disengaged from the metal. 
 
 To remove Black Stains from the Skin. --Half
an ounce each of cream of tartar and oxalic acid, mixed and pounded
together, kept in a covered cup in the drawer, and marked "poison." To use it,
wet the black stains with the corner of a towel, dipped in water, rub
on a little of the mixture. Then 
 immediately  wash it off with water, and
afterwards with soap and water, and the black stains will be
visible no longer. This mixture will also remove ink, and all other stains from
the fingers, and from white clothes. It is more speedy in its effects,
if applied with warm water. 
 
 For cleaning Wainscots, and other Painted
Woods. --Four ounces of potash and four ounces of powdered
quick-lime are  to be mixed together, and
boiled for half an hour in three quarts of water; this mixture is to
stand until it is cold, and quite clear; the clear liquid is then poured off,
and a painter's brush, dipped into it, is to be passed over the surface of the
wood, in the same way as for painting, immediately afterwards washing with
cold water. This mode of cleaning will frequently render a new coat of
paint unnecessary, and it has the advantage of being destructive to the
eggs of insects which may be deposited in the interstices of the wood;
where there is reason to suspect that bugs are in the wood, it may be well, as
an additional precaution, to add to the mixture two drachms of corrosive
sublimate. 
 
 Balloons from Turkey's Crops. --Free the crop
from a thick coat of fat; turn the inside out, and wash the food away;
soak it in water for a day or two, then lay it on a cloth, and with a
bone or knife scrape off the internal coat of the stomach; wash it well
and dry it with a clean cloth; then turn the crop, and make an incision through
the external coats, taking particular care not to cut through the membrane;
draw the coats at once over the neck, which must be cut long for greater
convenience in using the balloon when finished. Proceed with the other
neck in the same way; tie it firm with silk, and cut it close to the
body of the balloon; it must be then distended with wind and hung up to dry. It
may then be painted and varnished, but will not require it if properly
prepared. It may be made large enough to contain a gallon of gas, and so light
as to weigh only thirty grains. 
 
 Black Paper for Drawing Patterns. --Mix
lamp-black and sweet oil; with a bit of flannel cover a sheet or
two of large writing-paper with this mixture; then dab the
paper dry with a bit of fine linen, and keep it for using in the
following manner:--Put the black side on another sheet of paper, and
fasten the corners together with small pins. Lay on the back of the black
paper the pattern to be drawn, and go over it with the point of a steel
pencil; the black paper will then leave the impression of the pattern on
the under sheet, on which you must draw it with ink. 
 If you draw patterns on cloth or muslin, do it with a pen dipped in a bit of
stone blue, a bit of sugar, and a little water, mixed smooth in a
teacup, in which it will be always ready for use, if fresh; wet to a due
consistence as wanted. 
 
 Preservation of Books. --A few drops of any perfumed
oil will secure libraries from the consuming effects of mouldiness and
damp. 
 
 Water-proof Boots. --Saturate the boots with
solution of Caoutchouc (India-rubber), till they will absorb no more, at
intervals of a week, without needing to leave a coating on the surface. The
solution is made with an ounce of India-rubber in a pint of spirits of
turpentine, or coal naphtha, kept warm, and occasionally stirred
till dissolved, which takes three or four days. In a boiling water bath
it can be done in a few hours. 
 
 To clean Head and Clothes-brushes. ---Put a
table-spoonful of pearl-ash into a pint of boiling water. Having
fastened a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it into the solution, and
wash the brush with it, carefully going in among the bristles. Next pour over;
it some clean hot water, and let it lie a little while. Then drain it,
wipe and dry it before the fire. 
 
 To make Artificial Red Coral Branches for the
Embellishment of Grottoes. -- Take clear resin, dissolve it in a
brass-pan, to every ounce of which add two 
drachms of the finest vermilion; when stirred well together, choose the twigs
and branches, peeled and dried; then take a pencil and paint the branches all
over whilst the composition is warm; afterwards shape them in imitation of
natural coral. This done, hold the branches over a gentle
coal-fire till all is smooth and even, as if polished. In the same
manner white coral may be prepared with white lead, and black
coral with lampblack. A grotto may be built, with little expense, of
glass, cinders, pebbles, pieces of large flint, shells, moss, stones,
counterfeit coral, pieces of chalk, &c., all bound or
cemented together with the above described cement. 
 
 To clean Cane Chair Bottoms. --Turn up the chair
bottom, and with hot water and a sponge wash the cane-work well, so that
it may become completely soaked; should it be very dirty, you may add
soap. Let it dry in the open air if possible, or in a place where there
is a thorough draught, and it will become as tight and firm as when new,
providing that it has not been broken. 
 
 To clean Decanters. --Roll up in small pieces some
coarse brown paper, then wet and soap the same, put them into the
vessel with a little lukewarm water, and some common soda, shake
them well, then rinse with clean water, and it will be as bright and
clear as when new. 
 
 To render Shoes Water-proof. --Mix a pint of
drying oil, two ounces of yellow wax, two ounces of turpentine, and half
an ounce of Burgundy pitch, over a slow fire. Lay the mixture, while
hot, on the boots or shoes with a sponge or soft brush; and, when they are dry,
lay it on again and again, until the leather becomes quite saturated, that is
to say, will hold no more. Let them then be put away, and not be worn until
they are perfectly dry and elastic: they will afterwards be found not only
impenetrable to wet, but soft and pliable, and of much longe duration. 
 
 To clean papered Walls. --The very best method is to
rub them with stale bread. Out the crust off very thick, and wipe
straight down from the top, then go to the top again, and so on. The staler the
bread the better. 
 
 To cleanse Feather Beds and Mattresses. --When
feather beds become solid or heavy, they may be made clean and light thus: Rub
them over with a stiff brush, dipped in hot soap-suds. When clean, lay
them on a shed or any other clean place, where the rain will fall on them. When
thoroughly soaked, let them dry in a hot sun for six or seven days, shaking
them up well, and turning them over each day. They should be covered over with
a thick cloth during the night. This way of washing the bed-ticking and
feathers makes them very fresh and light, and is much easier than the old
fashioned way of emptying the beds, and washing the feathers separately, while
it answers quite as well. Care must be taken to dry the bed perfectly, before
sleeping on it. 
 
 To keep Eggs --Half a pint of salt,
half a pint of lime to two gallons of hot water. Cover the
eggs with the solution. 
 
 To preserve various kinds of Friuits through the
Winter. --Apples can be kept till June, by taking only those that
are hard and sound, wiping them dry, then packing them in tight barrels,
with a layer of bran to each layer of apples. Envelope the barrel in a
linen cloth, to protect it from frost, and keep it in a cool place, but not so
cold as to freeze the apples. It is said that mortar, laid over the top
of a barrel of apples, is a good thing to preserve them, as it
draws the air from them, which is the principal cause of their decaying. Care
should be taken not to have it come in contact with the apples. To
preserve oranges and  lemons several
months, take those that are perfectly fresh, and wrap each one in soft
paper; put them in glass jars, or a very light box, with white
sand, that has been previously dried in an oven a few hours, after it has been
baked in. The sand should be strewed thick over each one of the oranges,
as they are laid in the jar, and the whole covered with a thick layer of it.
Close the jar up tight, and keep it in a cool dry place, but not so cool as to
freeze the fruit. To preserve grapes, gather them on a dry day,
when they are not quite dead ripe, and pick those that are not far off from the
steins. Lay the bunches of grapes in a glass jar, and sprinkle around
each of them a thick layer of bran, so that they will not touch each other.
Have a thick layer of bran on the top, and cork and seal the jar very tight, so
that the air may be entirely excluded. 
 
 To destroy Cockroaches, Ants, and other Household
Vermin. --Hellebore, rubbed over with molasses and put round the
places that cockroaches frequent, is a very effectual poison for them.
Quicksilver and the white of an egg, beat together, and laid with
a feather round the crevices of the bedsteads and the sacking, is very
effectual in destroying bugs in them. To kill flies, when so numerous as to be
troublesome, keep cobalt, wet with spirit, in a large shallow plate. The
spirit will attract the flies, and the cobalt will kill them very soon.
The flour of sulphur is said to be good to drive ants away, if sprinkled
around the places that they frequent. Weak brine will kill worms in
gravel walks, if kept moist with it a week in the spring, and three or four
days in the fall.   COMMON SIMPLE DYES. 
 
 To dye Black. --Allow a pound of logwood to
each pound of goods that are to be dyed. Soak it over night in soft
water, then boil it an hour, and strain the water in which it is
boiled. For each pound of logwood, dissolve an ounce of blue vitriol in
lukewarm water sufficient to wet the goods. Dip the goods in--when
saturated with it. turn the whole into the logwood dye. If the goods are
cotton set the vessel on the fire, and let the goods boil ten or fifteen
minutes, stirring them constantly to prevent their spotting. Silk and woollen
goods should not be boiled in the dye-stuff, but it should be kept at a
scalding heat for twenty minutes. Drain the goods without wringing, and hang
them in a dry, shady place, where they will have the air. When dry, set the
color by, put them into scalding hot water, that has salt in it,
in the proportion of a teacupful to three gallons of the water. Let the
goods remain in it till cold, then hang them where they will dry; they should
not be wrung. Boiling hot suds is the best thing to set the color of
black silk-- let it remain in it till cold. Soaking black-dyed goods in sour
milk, is also good to set the color. 
 
 Green and blue, Dye, for Silks and Woollens. --For
green dye, take a pound of oil of vitriol, and turn it upon half an
ounce of Spanish indigo, that has been reduced to a fine powder. Stir
them well together, then add a lump of pearlash, of the size of a
pea;--as soon as the fermentation ceases, bottle it--the dye will be fit
for use the next day. Chemical blue is made in the same manner, only, using
half the quantity of vitriol. For, woollen goods, the East indigo will
answer as well as the Spanish, and comes much lower. This dye will not answer
for cotton goods, as the vitriol rots the threads. Wash the articles that are
to be dyed till perfectly clean, and free from color. If you cannot
extract the color by rubbing it in hot suds, boil it out, and
rinse it in soft water, till entirely free from soap, as the
soap will ruin the dye. To dye a pale color, put to each quart of
soft warm water  that is to be used for the
dye, ten drops of the above composition;--if you wish a deep color, more will
be necessary. Put in the articles without crowding, and let them remain in till
of a good color--the dye-stuff should be kept warm. Take the articles out
without wringing, drain as much of the dye out of them as possible, then hang
them to dry in a shady, airy place. They should be dyed when the weather is
dry--if not dried quick, they will not look nice. When perfectly dry, wash them
in lukewarm suds, to keep the vitriol from injuring the texture of the
cloth. If you wish for a lively bright green, mix a little of the above
composition with yellow dye. 
 
 Yellow Dyes. --To dye buff color, boil equal parts of
annatto and common potash, in soft clear water. When dissolved,
take it from the fire; when cool, put in the goods, which should previously be
washed free from spots and color; set them on a moderate fire where they will
keep hot, till the goods are of the shade you wish. To dye salmon and
orange color, tie annatto in a bag, and soak it in warm soft soap
suds, till it becomes soft, so that you can squeeze enough of it through
the bag to make the suds a deep yellow--put in the articles, which
should be clean, and free from color; boil them till of the shade you wish.
There should be enough of the dye to cover the goods--stir them while boiling,
to keep them from spotting. This dye will make a salmon or orange
color, according to the strength of it, and the time the goods remain in. Drain
them out of the dye, and dry them quick, in the shade--when dry, wash them in
soft soap suds. Goods dyed in this manner should never be rinsed in
clear water. Peach leaves, fustic, and saffron, all
make a good straw or lemon color, according to the strength of the dye. They
should be steeped in fair soft water, in an earthen or tin vessel, and
then strained, and the dye set with alum, and a little gum arabic
dissolved in the dye, if you wish to stiffen the article. When the dye-stuff is
strained, steep the articles in it. 
 
 Red Dyes. --Madder makes a good durable red, but not
a brilliant color. To make dye of it, allow for half a pound of it three ounces
of alum, and one of cream of tartar, and six gallons of
water. This proportion of ingredients will make sufficient dye for six
or seven pounds of goods. Heat half of the water scalding hot, in a
clean brass kettle, then put in the alum and cream of tartar, and
let it dissolve. When the water boils, stir the alum and tartar
up in it, put in the goods, and let them boil a couple of hours; then rinse
them in fair water--empty the kettle, and put in three gallons of
water, and the madder; rub it fine in the water, then put in the
goods, and set them where they will keep scalding hot for an hour, without
boiling--stir them constantly. When they have been scalding an hour, increase
the fire till they boil. Let them boil five minutes, then drain them out of the
dye, and rinse them, without wringing, in fair water, and hang them in
the shade, where they will dry. To dye a fine crimson, take for each pound of
goods two and a half ounces of alum, an ounce and a half of white
tartar--put them in a brass kettle, with sufficient fair water to cover
your goods, set it where it will boil briskly for several minutes; then put in
the goods, which should be washed clean, and rinsed in fair water. When
the goods have boiled half an hour, take them out, without wringing, and hang
where they will cool all over alike, without drying; empty out the alum
and tartar water, put fresh water in the kettle, and for each
pound of goods to be dyed, put in an ounce of cochineal, powdered fine.
Set the kettle on the fire, and let the water boil fifteen or twenty
minutes; then put in sufficient cold water to make it lukewarm, put
in  the goods, and boil them an hour and a
quarter--take them out without wringing, and dry them in a shady place. The
blossoms of the Balm of Gilead, steeped with fair water in a
vessel, then strained, will give silk a pretty red color. The silk should be
washed clean and free from color, then rinsed in fair water, and boiled
in the strained dye, with a small piece of alum. To dye a fine delicate
pink, use a carmine saucer--the directions for dyeing come with the saucers. It
is too expensive a dye for bulky goods, but for faded fancy shawls and ribbons,
it is quite worth the while to use it, as it gives a beautiful shade of
pink. 
 
 Slate-colored Dye --To make a good dark slate color,
boil sugar-loaf paper with vinegar, in an iron
utensil--put in alum to set the color. Tea grounds, set with
copperas, make a good slate color. To produce a light slate color, boil
white maple bark in clear water, with a little alum--the
bark should be boiled in a brass utensil. The dye for slate color should be
strained before the goods are put into it. They should be boiled in it, and
then hung where they will drain and dry. 
 
 To preserve Steel Pens from Corrosion.  Dip
them for a few moments in ethereal solution of gold. This covers them with a
film of pure metallic gold, which prevents the ink acting upon the steel. 
  
 
    
   INDEX. A
Accounts, 33. Accounts should be regular, 17. Acetic acid, 549. Adulteration of
Food, 78. Ague and Fever, 558. Airing Rooms, 85. Alabaster, to clean, 574.
Ale Posset, 513. Allspice, 130. Almack, 484. Almond Balls,
548. Almond Bread, 467. Almond Cake, 477. Almond Perfume, 537.
Almond Paste, 432. Almond Posset, 493. Almonds, Syrup
of, 511. Almond Water, 524. American "Help," 30. Anchovies,
Essence of, 206. Anchovies, Toast of, 206. Anchovies, with
Fried Bread, 206. Anchovies, to know good, 206. Anchovy
Sauce for Fish, 405. Angelica, 134. Animals, Names of Joints
in, 116. Aperient Electuary, 560. Aperient for Children, 563. Aperients,
Spring, 563. Aperient Pills, 563. Aperient, Infant's, 564. Apple Bread,
469. Apple Butter, 506. Apple Charlotte, 445. Apple
Codlings, to pickle, 400. Apples, to Bake, 520. Apple
Cake, for Children, 528. Apple Dumplings, 443. Apple Fool, 493.
Apple Jelly, 502. Apple Paste, 520. Apple Souffle, 453.
Apples, Tapioca, 520. Apples, Miroton of, 449 Apricot
Sweetmeat, for Tarts, 433. Apricot Tart, 428. April, Fish in
Season for, 150. April, Fruits in Season for, 150. April, Meats
in Season for, 150. April, Poultry and Game in Season for, 150. April,
Vegetables in Season for, 150. Ardent Spirits in Sweden, 510.
Arrangement of Dinner, 96. Arrow Root, 135, 527. Arrowroot Jelly, 524.
Aromatic Vinegar, 549. Art of Cookery, 124. Articles for Breakfast, 532.
Articles in winter, additional, 532. Articles of Silver required for the Table,
24. Artificial Coral Branches for Grottoes, 577. Articles in Season for
each Month, 149. Artichokes, 399, 388. Artichokes, Jerusalem,
384. Asparagus, 380. Asparagus Loaves, 381. Asparagus
Forced, 381. Asparagus Peas, 381. Asparagus, Garniture for
Omelettes, 464. Aspic Jelly, 354. Asses Milk, 520. Asses
Milk, Artificial, 520. August, Fish in Season for, 150. August,
Fruits in Season for, 151. August, Meats in Season for, 151.
August, Poultry and Game in Season for, 151. August, Vegetables in
Season for, 151. Auld Man's Milk, 514. B Baba, 486. Bacon,
Garniture for Omelette, 464. Bacon, Broiled, 531. Bacon, to boil,
334. Bacon, to broil, 334. Bacon, to make, 334. Bacon and
Cabbage, 334 Bacon, to Cure, Cobbett's Receipt, 333.
Bacon, to cure for Larding and Braising, 334, 346. Bacon,
Maline's Method of Curing, 345. Bacon, Black Pool Receipt for, 345.
Bacon, Wiltshire, 346. Bain Marie, 83. Baking, 141. Baked Apples,
442. Baked Beans, 884. Baked Calf's Head, 298. Baked
Calf's Heart, 288. Baked Eggs, 462. Baked Fagots, 327.
Baked Ham, 331. Baked Herring, 193. Baked Marrowbones, 273. Baked
Milk, 520. Baked Pears, 502, 523. Baked Pig's Head, 324.
Baked Pike, 196. Baked Salmon, 200. Baked Shad, 195. Baked
Smelts, 197. Balloons, from Turkey's Crops, 577. Balm Tea,
521. Banbury Cake, 481. Bandoline, 552. Bandoline, Rose, 553. Barberries, 132,
399. Barley Water, 522. Basil, 132. Bath of Oil, 83.
Batter for Fruit Puddings, 449. Bay, 134, 538. Bay Salt, 129.
Beans, a la maitre d' Hotel, 384 Beans, Baked, 384. Beans, French, 384
Beans, French, Pickled, 395. Beans, Lima, 384. Beans, Stewed,
386. Beans, White, Puree of, 386. Beans, White Haricot,
387. Bear's Grease, imitation, 545. Bedroom Furniture, 22. Bedsteads,
22, Bedsteads, to clean, 89.  Beef, to
choose, 56. Beef, 249. Beef Baked, 260. Beef, Bath
Receipt, 264. Beef Bouilli, 253. Beef Bouillon, 258. Beef
Brains a la Sauce Piquante, 260. Beef Brains Fried, 260.
Beef, Brisket of, Stewed, 253, 263. Beef, Brisket, to carve, 109.
Beef, Broiling, 254. Beef Broth, 273. Beef Ribs, to carve,
108. Beef Round, to carve, 108. Beef à la Houssard, 266.
Beef Sirloin, 109. Boeuf à la Mode, 264. Beef à la
Mode, 204, 266, 267. Beef à la Polonaise, 265. Beef, Cold,
273. Beef, to Corn, 342. Beef Collops, 256, 269.
Beef, to collar Ribs of, 250. Beef, Croquettes of, 271.
Beef, to collar, 352. Beef, to collar, Economical way, 352.
Beef, Curried, 273. Beef, Dutch way to salt, 342.
Beef, Dutch Hung, 259. Beef Entries, 263. Beef Essence,
518. Beef, Family Stew of, 257. Beef, Fillet of, Roasted, 251.
Beef to taste like Hare, 251. Beef, Fillets of, 265.
Beef Fillets, Braised, 265. Beef, Fillet of, Sautè, 270.
Beef, Fricasseed, 274. Beef Fricandeau, 267, 274. Beef
Gravy, 220. Beef Hashed, 256. Beef Heart, 268. Beef,
Hunter's, 268. Beef, Hung, 259, 343. Beef, Jerked, 140.
Beef, Leg of, 253. Beef, in a Marinade, 265. Beef,
Minced with Cucumbers,268. Beef, Minced, 271. Beef Olives,
258. Beef Palates, 256, 273. Beef, a Pickle for, 258, 354.
Beef, Pickle for a la Garrick,274. Beef Potted, 267, 349.
Beef, Potted like Venison, 349, 351. Beef, pressed, 274.
Beef, Rissoles, 275. Beef, Round, to salt or corn,
354. Beef, Rump of, 251. Beef, Salt, remains of,
273. Beef, to salt red, 342. Beef, to Stew, 208, 252.
Beef Sausages, 267. Beef, Sirloin, Roasted, 250.
Beef, Sirloin, to dress inside of 251. Beef, Spiced, 342,
274, 258. Beef Steaks, Broiled, 254. Beefsteaks, à la
Francaise, 255. Beef Steaks, à la Parisienne, 255. Beef
Steak and Onions, 255. Beef Steaks Rolled and Roasted, 255.
Beefsteaks, Stewed, 255. Beef Stew, 252, 256. Beef,
Rump Steak Stewed, 259. Beef, Rump Steak, Plain Broiled,
260. Beef Steak, à la Francaise, 265. Beef Tongue, to
Cure, 257. Beef Tongue, 262. Beef Tongues, to dress, 257. Beef
Tongue, Larded, 257. Beef Tongue, to stew, 202. Beef Tongue,
to prepare to eat cold, 262. Beef Tongue, to Roast, 262. Beef
Tongue, Fresh, 263. Beef Tongue and Udder, Fresh, 263.
Bœuf Tremblant, 258. Beef Tripe, 261. Beef Tripe, Lyons
Fashion, 269. Beef Tea, Liebig's, 518. Beer, Spruce, 510.
Beer, Ginger, 510. Beets, 382, 387. Beets, French
way, 387. Beignets, 459. Benzoin, 538. Bergalot, 538. Beverages, 510. Beverages
composed partly of Fermented Liquors, 512. Bills of Fare, 582, 533, 534. Bills
of Fare for Spring, 533. Bills of Fare for Summer, 583. Bills of Fare for
Winter, 534. Birds, Potted, 349. Birds, to bone, 356. Biscuits,
Damascus, 467. Biscuits, Milk, 467. Biscuits,
Cinnamon, 480. Biscuits, 481. Biscuit, glacé, 490.
Bishop, 512. Black Crape, to restore, 568. Block Balls, 570. Black Dye, 579.
Blackberry Jam, 528. Blacking, 570. Black Lace Veils, to clean, 575.
Black Pool Receipt for Bacon, 345. Black Stains, to remove from the
Skin, 576. Black Paper, for drawing patterns, 577. Blanching,
142. Blanc mange, 528, 487. Blanc mange, Rice, 528. Blue and Green Dye,
579. Blue Ink, 571. Boarding and Housekeeping, 21. Boiling, Operation of,
81,136. Boil Bacon, 384. Boil Cabbage, 388. Boil Calf's
Head, 282, 298. Boil Chicken, 364. Boil Cod, 190. Boil
Crabs, 207. Boil Ducks, 369. Boil Eggs, 460. Boil
Fillet of Veal, 277. Boil Fowls, 361. Boil Ham, 328, 329.
Boil Knuckle of Veal, 278. Boil Leg of Lamb, 312. Boil Leg of
Lamb with Spinach, 313. Boil Leg of Mutton, 298. Boil Leg
of Pork, 320. Boil Lobster, 204. Boil Mackerel, 194. Boil
Mutton Ham, 330. Boil Pickerel, 196. Boil Pig's Head, 326. Boil
Pork, 322. Boil Salmon, 200. Boil Sheepshead, 191. Boil Turbot,
199. Boil Turkey, 357. Bone a Quarter of Lamb, 314.
Bone Birds, 356. Boning, 143. Boorhave's Sweet Buttermilk, 519.
Books, to preserve, 577. Boots, Waterproof, 577. Boston Creamcakes, 484.
Bottles and Decanters, 60. Bouquet de Caroline, 542. Bouquet de Flora, 542.
Braising, 139. Braise Breast of Lamb, 314. Braise Chicken, 364.
Braise Fillet of Beef, 265. Braise Fowls, 361. Braise Ham,
332. Braise Leg of Mutton, 298. Braise Mutton Cutlets, 301.
Braise Neck of Veal, 279. Braise Shoulder of Lamb, 312, 314.
Braise Turkey, 358. Bran Tea, 559. Brandy Mixture, 522.
Brass, to clean, 574. Brass Ornaments, to preserve, 569. Brawn, to
choose, 57. Brawn, 346, Brawns, mock, 334, 346. Brawn, to keep, Cambridge way,
346. Bread Crumbs, 373. Bread, Fried, for Garnishing, 373.
Bread, to make, 464. Bread, Brown or Dyspepsia, 465.
Bread, Rye and Indian, 465. Bread, to make without
yeast, 465. Bread, Rice, 466. Bread, Almond,
467. Bread, Apple, 469. Bread, Diet, 480. Bread,
French, 482. Bread and Milk, 528. Breakfast Articles, 532.
Breakfast, Dishes for, 529. Breakfasts, Serving of, 94. Brick Hearth, to black,
574. Bride Cake, 476. Brioche Paste, 409. Brioche Rolls, 472.
Broccoli and Battered Eggs, 388. Broiled Chicken, for
Breakfast. 580. Brisket of Beef, 253, 283. Broiling, 140. Broil
Beef, 254. Broil Beef Steaks, 254. Broil Beef Steaks,
à la Française, 255. Broil Beef Steaks, à la
Parisienne, 255. Broil Bones, 269. Broil Chicken, 530. Broil
Fowls, 362. Broil Mackerel, 194. Broil Mushrooms, 388.
Broil Mutton Chops, 300. Broil Mutton Kidneys, 305. Broil
Oysters, 209. Broil Partridges, 371. Broil Pigeons,
364.  Broil Rump Steak, 260. Broil
Salmon, 201. Broil Shad, 195. Broil Smelts, 197.
Broth, Calf or Lamb's Feet, 518. Broth,
Chicken, 518. Broth, that will keep, 518. Broth, quick
made, 518. Brown Coloring for made dishes, 249. Brown thickening, 228. Bruise
or Sprain, 565. Brushes, 26. Brushes, to clean, 577. Bubble and Squeak, 260,
269. Buckwheat Cakes, 468. Buckskin Gloves, to clean, 571. Buns,
471. Burns, to relieve, 565. Butter, to clarify, 347, 473.
Butter, Pickle for, 472. Butter, to cure in the best way,
473. Butter, salt, to freshen, 473. Butter, to make, 473.
Butter, to preserve for winter use, 473. Butternuts, Pickled,
399. C. Cabbage, to boil, 388. Cabbage, Purple, to pickle,
396. Cabbage, Red, to pickle, 396. Cabbage, White,
to pickle, 396. Cakes, 473. Cake, Almond, 477. Cake, Banbury,
481. Cake, Boston Cream, 484. Cake, Bride, 476. Cake, Chocolate,
480. Cake, Cider, 479. Cake, Cocoanut, 477. Cake,
Cornstarch, 479. Cake, Currant, 480. Cake, Eletherian
Pineapple, 485. Cakes, Frosting, 475. Cake, German Sugar, 476.
Cake, Gold and Silver, 481. Cake, Honey, 477. Cake, Housewife's
Christmas, 479. Cakes, Icing for, 480. Cake, Indian Corn, 478. Cake,
Jelly, 480. Cake, Lady, 480. Cake, Lemon, 480. Cake, Love, Bola
d'Amour, 485. Cake, New England Wedding, 475. Cake, New York Cup, 478. Cake,
Nourmahal, 480. Cake, Plain Fruit, 477. Cake, Plum, 475. Cake,
Pound, 478. Cake, Queen, 477. Cake, Queen Victoria's, 485. Cake, Railroad, 479.
Cake, Bice, 485. Cake, Savoy, 477. Cake, Seed, 480. Cake, Short and
Strawberry, 479. Cake, Small Plum, 476. Cake, Soyer's St. James,
478. Cake, Soyer's Turban, 479. Cake, Sponge, 477. Cake, Sugar, 479.
Cake, Tipsy, 483. Cake, Washington, 478. Cakes, for Children, 527.
Calf's Brains, 289. Calf's Brains, Croquettes of,
289. Calf's Ears, Stuffed, 288. Calf's Feet, 288.
Calf's Foot Jelly, 491, 492. Calf's Foot Pudding,
524. Calf's Head, 292. Calf's Head Baked, 293.
Calf's Head Boiled, 282, 293. Calf's Head Cheese,
286. Calf's Head, to collar, 352. Calf's Head
Curry, 283. Calf's Head Hashed, 293. Calf's
Head Ragoût, 282. Calf's Head à la Tortue,
293. Calf's Heart, 290. Calf's Heart, Baked 288.
Calf's Liver, 285. Calf's Liver, Fried, 286.
Calf's Liver, Stewed, 285. Calf 's Liver and
Lights, 290. Camomile Tea, 522. Camphor Balls, 548.
Camphor Ice, 547. Camphor Cake, 565. Camphor Cerate, 548.
Candy Fruit, 509. Candies, Home made, 576. Cane Chair Bottoms, to clean,
578. Capillaire, 512. Capon, 360. Caramel, 127. Care of the Sick,
50. Carpets, 22. Carpet, to clean, 570. Carrots, 382. Carving, 107.
Carving, Beef, Brisket of, 109. Carving, Beef, Round of, 108.
Carving, Beef, Ribs of, 108. Carving, Beef Sirloin of,
109. Carving, Boiled or Roast Turkey, 113. Carving, Breast of
Veal, 109. Carving, Fillet of Veal, 109. Carving, Fowl, Roast
and Boiled, Carving, Forequarter of Lamb, 112. Carving, Ham, 112.
Carving, Haunch of Mutton, 112. Carving, Haunch of Venison, 112.
Carving, Knuckle of Veal, 109. Carving, Leg of Mutton, 110.
Carving, Leg of Pork, 112. Carving, Loin of Mutton, 111. Carving,
Loin of Veal, 109. Carving, Neck of Mutton, 111. Carving, Neck
of Veal, 109. Carving, Neck of Venison, 112. Carving,
Pheasant, 115. Carving, Pigeons, 116. Carving, Rabbit,
113. Carving, Roast Goose 115. Carving, Roast Pig, 118. Carving,
Saddle of Mutton, 111. Carving, Scrag of Mutton, 111. Carving,
Shoulder of Mutton, 110. Carving, Shoulder of Veal, 110. Carving,
Tongue, 112. Carving, Wild Birds, 115. Casserole, 127. Cassolettes, 551.
Casks, to sweeten, 569. Cassia, 131. Cauliflower, 382.
Cauliflower Pickle, 396. Caudle, 519. Caudle, Flour, 519. Caudle,
York, 519. Cayenne Pepper, 406. Cayenne, 130. Celery, 132.
Celery, to stew, 383. Celery, Pickled, 396, Cement, for Corked
Bottles, 573. Cement of Lime, 568. Cement, Lime and Egg,
71. Cement, Mastic, 72. Cement, Red, 71. Cements, Use of, 69. Cements,
Waterproof, 71. Cera, Fortifant, 565. Cervelle de Veau au Marinade, 289.
Cervelle de Veau à la Maitre d' Hotel, 291. Charcoal, Danger of,
87. Charcoal, Deaths by, 88. Chartreuse of Apples and
Rice, 449. Charlotte Russe, 488. Charlotte, Strawberry, 489.
Champagne, Pink, 517. Champagne, Grape, to equal Foreign,
517. Cheese, 454. Cheese, to make, 454. Cheese, at Dinner,
100. Cheese, Cream, 454. Cheese, Cream, Plain
Family way, 456. Cheese, Cottage, 454. Cheese, Eggs and,
455. Cheese, for Fondeau, 455. Cheese, Italian, 525.
Cheese, & L' Italienne, 455. Cheese, Puffs, 454.
Cheese, Sage, 454. Cheese, Soufflé, 455.
Cheese, Stewed, 456. Cheese, Potato, 435. Cheese,
Potted, 456. Cheese, Pudding, 456. Cheesecakes, 434, 485. Cheesecakes,
Almond, 434, 486. Cheesecakes, Apple, 486. Cheesecakes,
Bread, 486. Cheesecakes, Citron, 486. Cheesecakes, Lemon,
434, 486. Cheesecakes, Miss Bratty's, 434. Cheesecakes, Orange, 434.
Cheesecakes, Soyer's, 435. Cheesecake, Stock, 435. Cherries, to
dry, 508. Cherry Bounce, 514. Chetney, 135. Chicken and
Ham Potted, 349. Chicken Salad, 390. Chicken Jelly, 520.
Chickens, Boiled, 364. Chickens, Braised, 364. Chickens,
Curried, 364, 367. Chickens, Fried, à la Malabar. 364.
Chickens, Pulled, 364. Chickenpox, 562. Chilblains, 563. Children,
Cooking for, 526. Children's Diet for the day, 529. Children, Management of,
48. Children, Meats for, 529. Children, Training of, 519. China, 24.
Chlorine, Mode of Liberating, 90. 
Chocolate, 497. Chocolate, Cake, 480. Chocolate Drops,
498. Chopping, 73. Cinnamon, 131. Citron, 542. Citronella, 542.
Clarify Meat Jelly, 358. Clary, 132. Cleanliness, Importance of,
47. Cleaning Bottles, 60. Clean Brushes, 577. Clean Decanters, 578. Clean
Feather Beds, 578. Clean Floors, 88. Clean Freestone, 574. Clean German
Silver, 570. Clean Gloves, 572. Clean Ironwork, 88. Clean Japanned Goods, 89.
Clean Japanned Waiters, 574. Clean Kettles and Saucepans, 576. Clean Kid
Gloves, 569. Clean Knives, 89. Clean Marble, 570. Clean Mattresses, 578. Clean
Paint, 89. Clean Papered Walls, 578. Clean Silk, 570. Clean Silver, 572. Clean
Steel Forks, 89. Clean Tin Covers, 571. Clean Wainscots, 576. Cloth, to take
Spots out of, 569. Cloves, 180, 542. Clouted Cream, 488.
Clothesballs, 575. Cocoanut Cake, 477. Cocoa, 497, 522.
Cocoa Shells or Nibs, 497. Coffee, 494, 495. Coffee, to
roast, 495. Coffeemaker, Patent 495. Cold Cream, Almond, 547.
Cold Cream, Rose, 547. Cold Cream, Violet, 547. Coelus Apicius,
l25. Cold Cream, 549. Collar Breast of Mutton, 353. Collar
Breast of Veal, 353. Collar Eels, 351. Collar Fowls, 362.
Collar Ox Cheek, 353. Collar a Pig, 353. Collar Pig's
Head, 324, 353. Collar Ribs of Beef, 250. Collar Salmon, 202.
Collodion, 565. Collodion, Blistering, 565. Collodion, Toothache, 565. Coloring
for Jellies, 502. Colored Things, to wash, 571. Color of Dresses, to
preserve, 572. Compotes of Fruit, 505. Compound Odors, 542.
Condiments, 129. Consideration of Dinner, 36. Consommé, 127. Contrivance
for Filtering, 574. Composition for the Skin, 548. Cooking, French, 139.
Cookery for the Sick, 517. Cooking Stoves, 85. Cookery, Art or, 124. Cookery,
Rudiments of, 136. Coral Branches, 577. Corking, 60. Corn, Green,
Fritters, 385. Corn, Green, Omelet, 385. Corn, Green, Pudding,
385. Corn, Sweet, 385. Cottage Cheese, 454. Cottager's Stove, 85.
Country Syllabub, 491. Cosmetic Gloves, 546. Cough, 564. Coulis, 127. Court
Nosegay, 542. Court Plaster, 565. Cow Heels, 263. Cow Heels, to
fry, 267, 264. Cow Heels to pot, 264. Crabs, 206. Crabs,
Boiled, 207. Crabs, Minced, 208. Craks, Soft Shelled, 208. Crab
Soup, 207. Crabs, Stewed, 207. Cracknels, 482. Cracknels, Isle of Wight,
482. Cranberries, to prepare for Tarts, 482. Cranberry Sauce,
507. Crayfish Soup, 207. Crayfish Butter, 208. Crayfish
Stewed, 207. Cream of Tartar Water, 528. Cream Champagne, 487.
Cream Cheese, 454. Cream, Clouted, 488. Cream, Italian,
488. Créma, Leche, 488. Cream, Mock, 490. Créme Frites aux
Amandes, 458. Crepes, 457. Crickets, to destroy, 567. Croquettes, 127. Croup,
562. Croustades, 127. Crumpets, 468. Cullis, 275. Cup Cake, 478. Cure of
Intemperate Habits, 566. Cure Bacon, Cobbett's Receipt, 333. Cure
Bacon for Larding and Braising, 334, 346. Cure Bacon, Maline's
Method, 346. Cure Beef, Corned, 342. Cure Beef Tongue, 257.
Cure Hams, 329, 331, 343, 344. Cure Hog's Cheeks, 346. Cure
Mutton Ham, 345. Cure Tongues, 343. Curing, 341. Curling Hair
Fluid, 558. Currants, Ripe, 528. Currant Jelly, 502.
Curry, Calf's Head, 283. Curry, Chicken,
364, 367. Curry, Custard, 525. Curry, Kitchener's, 221.
Curry, Plain, 221. Gurry Powders, 221. Curry Powder, Delhi, 221.
Curry, Soyer's 236. Custard, Arrowroot. 487. Custard, Boiled,
487. Custard, Coffee, 487. Custard, Cocoanut, 431. Custard,
Cream of Chocolate, 487. Custard, French Mode, 487. Culinary Utensils,
116. Curtains, 22. Cucumbers, to pickle, 394. Cut, to heal, 565.
Cutlets, à la Victime, 337. Cutlery, 24. Cutting Glass, 68. D Daily
Routine of Work, 42. Dandelion and Parsley Tea, 523. Doubing,
142. December, Fish in Season for, 152. December, Fruits in
Season for, 152. December, Meats in Season for, 152. December, Poultry
and Game in Season for, 152. December, Vegetables in Season for, 152.
Deaths by Burning Charcoal, 88. Decanters, to clean, 578. Decanting
Liquids, 65. Dejeuners à la Fourchettes, 94. Depilatories, 555. Dessert,
41. Desserts, 102. Detergent Gargle, 557. Development of the Lungs, 559.
Devils of Biscuits, 581. Devil, Dry, 531. Devilled Game, 581.
Devil, Wet, 581. Devonshire Junket, 491. Diet, Children's for the Day, 529.
Diet Bread, 480. Digester, Saucepan, 128. Dinners, Arrangement of, 96.
Dinner, Consideration of, 86. Dinner Entries, 100. Direction of the Table, 37.
Disinfecting, 89. Distillation, 92. Distilling Spirits, 510.
 Domestic Education & Thoughts on --16. Domestic
Affairs, Skill in, requisite, 15. Domestic Education, should be complete, 17.
Duties to Children, 46. Early Rising, an advantage, 42. Household Knowledge
essential to a Lady, 42. Influence of Women, 17. Late Hours destructive to
Health, 49. Plan and Order necessary, 44. Province of Woman, 18. Eights and
"Mission" of Woman, 16. Domestic Manipulation, 59; Doomsday Book, 125.
Doughnuts, 483. Draught for Palpitation of the Heart, 557. Draught for
Hysteric Patients, 559. Drawing-Room Furniture, 22. Dredgings, 189. Dresses,
Color of, to preserve, 572. Dripping, 139. Dried Salmon, 530.
Drunkenness in France, 510. Drying Bottles, &c., 60. Dry Measures, 124.  Ducks, boiled, 369. Ducks Canvas-back,
370. Ducks, roasted, 369. Ducks, Stewed with Claret, 369.
Ducks and Peas, Stewed, 370. Duckling with Turnips, 370.
Ducks, Wild, or Teal, 370. Dumpokht, 367. Duties of each Day, 44. Duties
of the Mistress, 31. Dwelling House, the, 19. Dye, Black, 579. Dye, Blue and
Green. 579. Dyes, Common Receipts for, Dye, Red, 580. Dye, Slate colored, 581.
Dye, Yellow, 580. E Eau de Bouquet de Flore, 544. Eau de Chypre, 543, 544. Eau
de Cologne, 544. Eau d' Ambre Royale, 544. Eau d' Elegance, 544. Eau Jaune
à l' Amaryllis, 544. Eau de Javelle, 555. Eau de Miel, 544. Eau de vie
Lavande, 543. Earache, 564. Economy of Heat, 84. Eels à la
Tartare, 203. Eels, bread crumbed, 203. Eels, collared,
202. Eels, fried, 203. Eel Pie, 203. Eels, spitchcocked,
203. Eels, stewed, 203. Eggs, 459. Eggs, au Beurre, 532.
Egg Biscuit, 469. Eggs and Cheese, 555. Eggs, to
boil, 460. Eggs with burnt butter, 463. Eggs, fried, 462.
Egg Flip, 513. Egg Hot, 513. Eggs, for Turtle, 247.
Eggs in cases, 463. Eggs, to keep, 578. Eggs, to keep for
winter, 459, Eggnogg, 514. Egg Plant, 381. Eggs, to poach, 460,
Eggs, plain baked, 462. Eggs, pretty dish of, 463, Eggs,
Randalled, 462. Egg Sauce, 215. Egg scrambled, 532, Egg
Snow, 463. Eggs and Vegetables, 463. Elder Flower Ointment, 562.
Elder Flower Tea, 522. Electuary for Scorbutic Eruptions, 559. Empress
Eugenie's Nosegay, 543. Entrées at Dinner, 100. Erysipelas, 558. Essence
of White Lilac, 537. Essence of Beef, 518. Essentia Odorifera,
543. Evening Parties, 41. Extract d' Ambre, 539. Eyes, Inflammation of,
to relieve, 557. F Family Medical Guide, 556. Fancy Pastry, 426. Farces and
Stuffings, 248. Farce Cuite, 245. Farce, Ham and Veal, 245. Farce
of Veal or Fowl, 247. Farce, Panada, 243. Farce, Panada, for
Fish, &c., 244. Farce, Quenelle, 244. Farce, Udder, 244. Fawn
or Kid, to dress, 375. Featherbeds, to clean, 578. February, Fish in
Season for, 149. February, Fruits in Season for, 149. February,
Meats in Season for, 149. February, Poultry and Game in Season
for, 149. February, Vegetables in Season for, 149. Feeding Children, 47.
Fermenting, 91. Fever and Ague, 558. Fever Draught, 559. Filtering contrivance,
574. Filtering Liquids, 68. First Course at Dinner, 99. First Watch Stew, 276.
Fish, for April, May, June, July, and August, 150. Fish Cake,
191. Fish, Carp, stewed, 196. Fish, Casserole, 211.
Fish, to choose, 59. Fish, Cod, boiled, 190. Fish,
Cod, with Oyster Sauce, 190. Fish, Cod, au Gratin,
190. Fish, Cod Omelette, 191. Fish, Cod Sounds,
Ragoût of, 190. Fish, Cod, slices of, 191. Fish,
Cold, to dress, 211. Fish Cutlets, 213. Fish for December, 152.
Fish, Forcemeat, 245. Fish, Fricandelles of, 213.
Fish, Haddock, 192. Fish, Haddock, dried, 192.
Fish, Haddock, dressed, 192. Fish, Haddock, baked,
192. Fish, Halibut, 191. Fish, Halibut, stewed,
191. Fish, Halibut, colloped, 192. Fish, Halibut
à la Creme, 192. Fish, Herrings, 193. Fish,
Herrings, fresh, baked, 193. Fish, Herrings, potted, 193.
Fish for January, February, and March, 149. Fish,
Mackerel, stewed, 193. Fish, Mackerel, boiled, 194.
Fish, Mackerel, broiled, 194. Fish with Marinade, 189.
Fish, Matelote of, 213. Fish, Pickerel, boiled, 196. Fish,
Pike, roasted, 195. Fish, Pike, baked, 196. Fish, Salmon,
crimped à la Creme, 199. Fish, Salmon, au naturel, 200.
Fish, Salmon, baked, 200. Fish, Salmon, boiled,
200. Fish, Salmon, broiled, 201. Fish, Salmon,
collared, 202. Fish, Salmon, dried, 201. Fish Paté,
212. Fish, Pickled, 201. Fish, Potted, 202. Fish,
Ragoût of, 214. Fish, to serve, 107. Fish, Shad,
roasted, 194. Fish, Shad, preserved, 195. Fish,
Shad, broiled, 195. Fish, Shad, baked, 195. Fish
for September, October, November, 151. Fish, Sheepshead, boiled, 191.
Fish, Shrimps, 197. Fish, Smelts, fried, 196. Fish,
Smelts, broiled, 197. Fish, Smelts, baked, 197.
Fish, Soles, fried, 196. Fish, Stewed, Hebrew fashion,
214. Fish, Sturgeon Cutlets, 197. Fish, Sturgeon, stewed, 197.
Fish, Sturgeon, cheaply cooked, 197. Fish, Trout, roasted,
195. Fish, Trout, fried, 195. Fish, Trout, in the
foreign mode, 198. Fish, Trout, à la Genevoise, 198.
Fish, Trout, à la Princesse Royale, 198. Fish,
Trout, à la Twickenham, 198. Fish, Trout, stewed,
199. Fish, Turbot, boiled, 199. Fish, Turbot, à la Creme,
199. Fish, Vol-au-vent of, 214. Flannel Cakes, 469. Flax Seed
Lemonade, 522. Fleur d' Italie, 543. Floating Island, 489. Floors, to clean,
88. Fondeaux, 455. Food, Adulteration of, 78. Food and Cookery for Children,
526. Forcemeat, 244, 245. Forcemeat, another, 244. Forcemeats,
&c., 248. Forcemeat Balls for Soup Maigre, 246. Forcemeat
Ingredients, 248. Forcemeat for Hare or any thing in imitation of
it, 245. Forcemeat, Oyster, 246. Forcemeat for
Turtle, 246. Forcemeat, 340. Forcemeat to make Quenelles
of, 341. Forcemeat, Panada for, 341. Forcemeat Stuffing for
Veal, 341. Forcemeat Stuffing for Hare or Turkey,
341. Foreign Terms, glossary of, 126. Fowls, à la Bechamel, 366.
Fowls, boiled or roast, to carve, 114. Fowls, boiled, 361.
Fowls, braised, 361. Fowls, broiled, 362. Fowls, forced,
360. Fowls, fried, 362. Fowls, fricassee of, 382. Fowls,
Guinea, 366. Fowl, hashed, 361. Fowl, Indian pilau of,
366. Fowls, Pea, 366. Fowls, Pilau of, 362. Fowls,
Poele, to boil in, 360. Fowls, à la Provencale, 360.  Fowls, Poele, for, 363. Fowls, Roast, 361.
Fowls, Rissoles of, 363. Frangipane, 482. Freestone, to clean,
574. French Bread, 482. French Beans, pickled, 396. French
Cooking, 139. French Pap, 527. Fricandelles of Fish, 213 Fritadella,
336. Fritters, 458. Fritters, Plain, 458. Fritters, Apple, 458.
Fritters, French, 458. Fritters, Potato, 458. Fritters, Curd, 459.
Fritters, Orange and Sweetmeat, 459. Frontignac, 516. Frosted
Fruit, 502. Frosting Cakes, 475. Frozen Pudding, 493. Fruit Cake,
477. Fruits for April, May, June, July, 150. Fruits for August,
September, October, November, 151. Fruits to candy, 509. Fruits
for December, 152. Fruits for January, February, March, 149.
Fruits, to keep fresh, 578. Fruit for Children, 528. Frying, 141.
Fry Calf's Liver, 286. Fry Chickens à la Malabar,
364. Fry Cowheels, 264, 267. Fry Eggs, 462. Fry Fowls, 862. Fry
Ham and Eggs, 330. Fry Mutton Chops, 300. Fry Pig's
Feet and Ears, 827. Fry Potatoes, 377. Fry Ramequins, 455. Fry
Smelts, 196. Fry Soles, 196. Fry Sweetbreads, 290. Fry
Trout, 198. Fry Veal, Liver, and Bacon, 289. Fry
Venison, 374. Fumigating Paper, 553. Furnishing a House, 21.
Furniture, Bedroom, 22. Furniture, Drawing-room, 22. Furniture, Kitchen, 23.
Furniture, Nursery, 46. G Galette, 482. Game, all kinds of potted, 350.
Game Course, 100. Gants Cosmetiques au Bouquet, 546. Garlic,
Pickle, 394. Garnishes, 248. Gas, Heating vessels by, 86. Gauffres, 429.
German Silver, to clean, 570. Geranium, 538. Gherkins and Kidney
Beans, to pickle, 399. Gherkins, 132. Gigot de Mouton
sacrifié,525. Ginger, 130. Gingerbread, 482. Gingerbread,
Hard, 483. Gingerbread, Soft, 482. Gingernuts, 483. Ginger
Wafers, 478. Glaize, 524. Glasse, Mrs., Recipe, 18. Glass, 24. Glass Cutting,
63. Glass Grinding, 63. Glass Vessels, labelling of, 65. Glass, Writing on, 63.
Glaze, 128. Glazing, 140, 142. Glazing for Tarts, 426. Glossary of Foreign
terms in cookery, 126. Gloves, to clean, 569, 571. Gloves, Cosmetic, 541, 546.
Glue, 70. Godiveaux, 129. Glycerine Balsam, 549. Gooseberry Fool,
492. Goose, Roasted, 368. Goose, to carve, 115. Goose,
Marbled, 368. Goose, Preserved, 368. Goulard Lotion, 559. Grapes,
to pickle, 399. Grease, to extract from silk, 570.
Grease Spots, to take out, 570. Green Peas, 380. Green Corn
Fritters, 385. Green Corn Omelet, 385. Green Corn Pudding, 385. Griddle
Cakes, Indian, 469. Grillades, 529. Grinding Glass, 63. Ground Rice
Milk, 522. Ground Rice Paste, 524. Ground Rice Pudding, 524.
Grouse, 372. Guards Bouquet, 543. Gumbo, 336. H Hair Curling Fluid, 553.
Hair Dyes, 554. Hair Wash, 553. Hair Water, 552. Hams, 329.
Ham, to bake, 331. Hams, boiled, 328. Hams, to boil, 329.
Ham, to boil in a superior way, 828. Ham, to braise, 332.
Ham, to braise in a French fashion, 332. Ham Cake, 351.
Ham, to carve, 112. Ham cold, Soyer's, 355. Ham, to cook,
328. Hams, to cure, 329, 331, 343, 844. Ham and Eggs,
fried, 330. Ham, fried with Poached Eggs, 830. Ham,
Fitzimmon Receipt for curing, 344. Ham Gravy, 330. Ham,
Goose, 345. Hams, to keep, 56. Ham, Mutton, to
boil, 830. Ham, Mutton, to cure, 845. Ham, to make
superior to Westphalia, 344. Ham, Practical Housewife's Christmas, 329.
Ham, Rashers or Slices, 333. Ham, to roast, 330. Ham,
Westphalia, 344. Harlequinade in Cookery, 126. Hands, to whiten, 549.
Harnessmaker's Jet, 573. Hare, Jugged, 373. Hare, Potted, 349.
Hare, Roasted, 372. Haricot Roots, 387. Harness, to color, 569.
Hashballs, 257. Hasty Pudding, 442. Heartburn, Mixture for, 561. Heating by
Gas, 86. Heat, Economy of, 84. Heliotrope, 538. Heliotrope, Extract of,
589. Hedgehog, 445. Herrings, to pickle, 354. Hints and Maxims,
143. Hog's Cheeks, to cure, 346. Hog's Lard, 328. Hominy,
453.
 Home and Housekeeping,  16. Absolute Rule of a
Mistress, 31. Care in Accounts necessary, 33. Care of the Sick, 50. Choice and
Arrangement of Dinner Company, 38. Duties of each day, 42. Feeding Children,
47. Fundamental Principles, 33. Good Wages the best policy, 32. Home, little
Attachment of Americans to, 15. Home Duties, little thought of in Female
Education. 15. Home, ruled by a Sensible Woman, 16. Home, a place of Refuge and
Rest 16. Housewifery may be Ultra, 16. Importance of Cleanliness, 52.
Importance of Health, 34. Important Responsibility of a Housekeeper, 16. Income
and Marriage, 18. Management of Children, 48. Social Evenings, 41. The Nursery,
46, Thoughts on, 16.
 Housekeeping -- Acetous Fermentation, 92. Adulterated
Articles, 78. A Dwelling in Town, 19. Agreement with the Land-lord, 19. A
Useful Art, 15. Bargain Hunting Perilous, 33. Bed-room Furniture, 22. Bedsteads
and Bed curtains. 22. Boarding, 21. Brushes used for cleaning, 25. Breathing
Chlorine not Injurious, 91. Calculation of Income and Outgoings, 17. Carpets,
22. Chloride of Lime a Disinfect-ing agent, 20. Chloride of Soda,
20. 
 Housekeeping-- Change of Air required continually,
20. Cleaning, Drying, and Corking Bottles, 60. Coffee Making in
Turkey, 79. Covering the Table, 37. Cutting, Grinding, and Writing on
Glass, 63. Cutlery, Crockery, China, &c., 24. Compulsory Present-Giving,
30. Decanting, Straining, and Filtering of Liquids, 65. Desserts, Teas
and Suppers, 102. Dessert, 39. Disinfecting Operations, 89. Difficulty of
procuring and retaining good Servants, 26. Dining-room Furniture, 22.
Drawing-room Furniture, 22. Dividing, Powdering, Grinding, &c., 72.
Domestic Use of Gas in Heating, 86. Expenses of a Servant, 26. Faraday's Use of
Chlorine, 91. Fumigation and Disinfection, 20. Furnishing a House, 21.
Gratuities to Servants, 29. Hall Furniture, 21. Hard Water in Washing,
81. Hedgehog. 440. Herbs for Distilling, 93. Hiring Servants, 26.
Household Linen, 25. Household of a British Nobleman, 27. Household
Expenditure, 17. House Rent, 21. Impositions in Hotels, 29. Insult to the name
of Hospitality, 29. Irish and German Servants, 26, Kitchen Furniture, 23.
Labelling of Glass Vessels, 65. Ladies' Packages, 74. Lighting of Apartments,
23. List of Articles of Silver for the Table, 24. List of Spoons, &c., 25.
Manufacture of cements, 69. Marketing, 56. Mistaken Notion among American
Girls, 30. Mode of Warming a House, 19. Mode of Liberating Chlorine, 90.
Pictures on the wall, 21. Placing Dishes on the Table, 99. Process of Boiling,
82. Process of Distillation, 92. Qualifications of Servants, 28. Requisites in
a Cook, 27. Rooms in a House, 19. Saccharine Fermentation, 91. Sleeping in
close rooms injurious, 20. Soyer's Housewife's Dinner, 39. Soyer's List of
Kitchen Articles, 23.
 Housekeeping-- Stoppering of Bottles, 61. Style of
Dinner, a test of respectability, 87. Stored Articles, 56. Sweeping and
Dusting, 48. Tax on Visitors, 29. Teamaking in China, 79. Taking a house, 18.
The Question of Dinner, 86. The Store room, 58, 54. Thoughts on Housekeeping,
10. To choose Fish, 59. To choose Meats, 56, 57, 58. To choose
Poultry and Game, 58, 59. Tying knots, 75. Tying over Jars, 76. Tying a
Parcel, 77. Ventilation Important, 20. Weights and Scales necessary, 33.
Honey Suckle, 539. Hooping Cough, 556. Hopping John, 386. Horse
Radish, 132. House Furnishing, 21. Housekeeping Accounts, 33. Household
Articles, to keep, 54. Household Linen, 25. Housewife's Dinner, 39. Housewife's
Christimas Cake, 479. Housekeeping, Principles of, 33. Household Vermin, to
destroy, 579. Hungary Water, 541. Hung Beef, 259, 343. Hunter's
Beef, 268. Hysteric Patients, draught for, 559. I Ice Cream,
Almond, 491. Ice Cream, Wagner's Vanilla, 490. Ice
Cream, Wagner's Lemon, 490. Ice Cream, Wagner's
Strawberry, 490. Ices, Water, 491. Icing for Cakes, 480. Icing
for Fruit Pies and Tarts, 485. Iceland Liverwort Decoction, 526. Iceland
Moss Jelly, 528. Imperial, 528. Impressions of Butterflies'
Wings, to take, 575. Impressions of Leaves, 573. Importance of Health,
84. Income and Living, 18. Indelible Marking Ink, 575. Indigestion, Medicine
for, 557. Ingredients of Food, 78. India Pickle, 398. Infant's Food,
527. Infection, to prevent, 90. Inflammation of Eyes, 557. Infant's Aperient,
564. Infusion de Lavande Rouge, 543. Infusion de Camomile Romaine, 543.
Infusion of Esprit de Safran, 544. Infusion of Absinthe, 544. Infusion de
Canelle, 544. Infusion Esprit de Rhodia, 544. Infusions Spirituous, 543. Ink,
Recipe for, 569. Ink, blue, Recipe for, 569. Ink for marking linen, 555. Ink
Stains, to remove from the fingers, 571. Ink, to remove from books, 571. Iron
Work, to clean, 88. Italian Cream, 488. Italian Pastes, 450. J January,
Fish in Season for, 149. January, Fruits in Season for, 149.
January, Meats in Season for, 149. January, Poultry and Game in
Season for, 149. January, Vegetables in Season for, 149. Japanned Goods, to
clean, 89. Japanned Waiters, &c., to clean, 574, Jeffrey Hudson in a Pie,
125. Jelly, Arrowroot, transparent, 524. Jelly, Aspic,
354. Jelly, Calf's Foot, 491. Jelly, cheap
Calf's Foot, 492. Jelly, clear Apple, 502.
Jelly Cake, 480. Jellies, Coloring for, 502. Jelly,
Cranberry, 508. Jelly, Chicken 520. Jelly,
Currant, 502. Jelly, Easy and excellent Receipt for, 489,
Jelly, Iceland Moss, 523. Jelly for Invalids, 517. Jellies
for Meat or raised Pies, 410. Jelly, Port Wine, 519.
Jelly, Pork, Dr. Ratcliff's, 518. Jelly, Quince,
500. Jelly, Strengthening, 518. Jelly, Tapioca, 521.
Jerked Beef, 140. Jet, Harnessmaker's, 573. Joints in Animals, Names of,
116. Johnny Cakes, 469. Jophson's Soup, 524. July, Fish in Season for,
150. July, Fruits in Season for, 150. July, Meats in Season for,
150. July, Poultry and Game in Season for, 150. July, Vegetables in
Season for, 150. Jumbles, 478. June, Fish in Season for, 150. June,
Fruits in Season for, 150. June, Meats in Season for, 150. June,
Poultry and Game in Season for, 150. June, Vegetables in Season for 150.
K Kabobs, 530. Kedgeree, 524. Kedgeree for breakfast, 218. Ketchup,
Camp, 404. Ketchup, Cucumber, 403. Ketchup,
Mushroom, 402. Ketchup, Pontac, 406. Ketchup, Seven years,
404. Ketchup, Tomato, 404. 
Ketchup, Tomato, for winter use 404. Ketchup,
Walnut, 403. Ketchup, Walnut, best quality 403.
Ketchup, Walnut, Irish mode, 403. Kettles and Saucepans, to
clean, 576. Kid Gloves, to clean, 569. Kisses, 484. Kitchen Articles, 123.
Kitchen Clock, wanted, 123. Kitchen Furniture, 23. Knifeboard, to make, 573.
Knives, to clean, 89. Knives and Forks, 575. Knots, 74. Kringles, 482. L
Labelling of Glass vessels, 65. Lady Cake, 480. Lait de Poule, 524. Lait de
Rose, 546. Lamb, a L' Espagnole, 315. Lamb, au Pascal, 315.
Lamb, Blanquette d' Agneau, a la Provencale, 315. Lamb,
Breast of, braised, boiled, 314. Lamb, Breast of, to stew,
315. Lamb Chops, 316. Lamb, to choose, 57. Lamb, Chevaux
de Frise, 315. Lamb Sweetbreads, with chevaux de Frise, 315. Lamb
with Lamb sweetbread, 315. Lamb, to bone a Quarter, 314.
Lamb, Forequarter of, 311. Lamb, Forequarter, to carve, 112.
Lamb's Fry, 314. Lamb's Head, 314. Lamb's Head with
Brain or Liver, 314. Lamb's Head with Hollandaise, 314.
Lamb's Head and Emincees, 317. Lamb's Heart Sweetbreads, larded
with Bacon or Truffles, 317. Lamb's Leg, to boil, 312.
Lamb's Leg, to roast, 312. Lamb's Loin, to grill, 312. Lamb's
Loin, stewed, 313. Lamb's Leg or Shoulder with Peas, 313.
Lamb's Leg, boiled with Spinach, 313. Lamb's Leg or
Shoulder with French Beans, 313. Lamb's Neck, à la
Jardiniere, 313. Lamb, Pieds d' Agneau, 317. Lamb, Saddle of,
312. Lamb, Saddle, Russian fashion, 313. Lamb, Shoulder of, 312.
Lamb, Shoulder, braised, 314. Lamb's Shoulder, forced and
braised, 312. Lamb's Shoulder, larded, 312. Lamb Stones, to
fricasse, 315. Lamb Sweetbreads, 316. Lamb Sweetbreads, brown,
316. Lamb Sweetbread Cutlets au gratin, 317. Lamb Sweetbreads as
Cutlets 317. Lamb Sweetbreads, roasted, 317. Lamb Sweetbreads,
larded à la Daube, 317. Lamb Sweetbreads, to stew, 316. Lamb
Sweetbreads, white, fricasseed, 316. Lamb Trotters, 318.
Larding, 142. Lard, to melt, 328. Lard, Hog's, 328.
Larks or small birds, 365. Lavender Water, 544. Laying the cloth,
98. Laying out of Tables, 94. Laying out Tray or Sideboard, 99. Leché
créma, 488. Leeches, 561. Lemonade, 511, 524. Lemonade, Flaxseed,
522. Lemons and Oranges in Jelly, 505. Lemon flavoring
for Puddings, 402. Lettuces and Endives, 389. Liebig's plan for boiling
meat, 83. Lily of the Valley Essence, 539. Lima Beans, 384.
Lime, Cement of, 568. Linen, Household, 25. Linen, to perfume, 571.
Linen, to take stains out of, 567. Linseed Emulsion, 528. Liquids, Decanting,
65. Liquids, Filtering, 68. Liquid Glue, 70. Liquid Measures, 124. Lip
Salve, 549. Lip Salve, common, 549. Liverwort Decoction, 526. Lobscous, 275.
Lobster, boiled, 204. Lobster, curried, 205. Lobster,
Croquettes of, 205. Lobster, Garniture for Omelettes, 464.
Lobster, au gratin, 205. Lobster, Salad, Italian, 205.
Lobster Salad, 205, 392. Lotion, Goulard, 559. Luncheons, 95. Luxuries
of different ages, 125. M Mace, 130. Macaroons 484,
Maccaroni, 450. Maccaroni, Timbale of, 450. Maccaroni,
Paté of, 450. Mackenzie's Perigord Pie, 418. Mahogany, to restore the
color of, 573. Maids of Honor, 485. Magnolia, Essence, 539. Management of
Children, 48. Mangoes, 397. Manipulation, Domestic, 59. Marble, to clean, 570.
Marbled, Goose, 368. Marbled Veal, 295. March, Fish in
Season for, 149. March, Fruits in Season for, 149. March, Meats
in Season for, 149. March, Poultry and Game in Season for, 149. March,
Vegetables in Season for, Marinade for meats, 250. Marinade for collared
meats, 354. Marjoram, 187. Marketing, 56. Marking Ink, 575.
Marmalade, 504. Marmalade, Apple, 504. Marmalade,
Orange, 505. Marmalade, Pear, 501. Marmalade,
Quince, 500. Marrow Pudding, 524. Marrow Bones, 264, 273.
Marrow Bones, baked, 273. Mastic Cement, 72. Marrow Patties, 421.
Marshmallow Emulsion, 523. Mattresses, to clean, 578. May, Fish in
Season for, 150. May, Fruits in Season for, 150. May, Meats in
Season for, 150. May, Poultry and Game in Season for, 150. May,
Vegetables in Season for, 150. Mayonnaise, 392. Mead without
fruit, 511. Meats for January, February, 149. Meats for
March, 149. Meats for April, May, June, July, 150. Meats for
August, September, 151. Meats for October, November, 151. Meats
for December, 152. Meat Jelly, to clarity, 355. Meat Pies, 409.
Medical Guide, Family, 556. Meats for Children, 529. Medicine for
Indigestion, 557. Meringues, 493. Meringues, à la creme, 494.
Milk, Ass's, 520. Milk, artificial Ass's, 520. Milk,
baked, 520. Milk Rolls, 471. Milk, toast, 471.
Millet Pudding, 528. Mincemeat, 427, 428. Mince Pies, 427.
Mint, 132. Miroton of Apples, 449. Mistress, Duties of the, 31.
Miscellaneous Receipts, 567. Mixed Pickle, 397. Mixture for Children
teething, 557. Mixture for Diarrhea, 559. Mock Cream, 490. Mock
Ginger, 506. Molasses Posset, 521. Morels, 389. Movable Screen,
128. Mouth Glue, to make, 70. Mouton, Blanquette de, 302. Muffins, 468,
470. Mulled Cider, 514. Mush, 453. Mushrooms, 888.
Mushrooms, boiled, 388. Mushroom Garniture for Omelettes, 464.
Mushrooms, to pickle, 394. Mushrooms, to Pot, 351.
Musk, 540. Mustard, 131,147. Mustard, French, 406.
Mutton, Camp dish, 310. Mutton, to choose, 57. Mutton
Bagpipe with Endive, 311.  Mutton,
Breast of, stewed, 300. Mutton, Breast of, to collar, 353.
Mutton, Breast of, au gratin, 300. Mutton, China chilo,
303. Mutton, another way, 303. Mutton, braised Cutlets, 301.
Mutton, cutlets of, 301. Mutton, cutlets saute, 301.
Mutton, Maintenon, 301. Mutton chops, broiled, 300. Mutton
Chops, fried, 300. Mutton Chops as Beefsteaks, 300. Mutton
Cotelettes, à la Maintenon, 305, 306. Mutton Outlets with Soubise
or Onion sauce, 305. Mutton, a better method, 306. Mutton
Cotelettes, à la Polonaise, 306. Mutton Cotelettes, en
Ragoût, 306. Mutton Cotelettes, aux Haricot verts, 306.
Mutton, au Gratin, or scollops, 304. Mutton, an English Haggis,
310. Mutton, Fillet of, 301. Mutton, Fillet of, stewed, 302.
Mutton in Marinade, 302. Mutton, French Ragoût of, 309.
Mutton, Haricot, 302. Mutton Hams, to dress, 305. Mutton,
hashed, 303. Mutton, Haunch of, to carve, 112. Haunch of, 297.
Mutton, Irish, stew of, 303, 310. Mutton, Kebobbed, 302.
Mutton Kidneys, 307. Mutton Kidneys, broiled, 305. Mutton,
Leg of, roasted, 297. Mutton, Leg, roasted, boned, and
stuffed, 297. Mutton, Leg of, boiled, 298. Mutton,
Leg of, braised, 298. Mutton Leg of, to carve, 110.
Mutton, to dress a Leg of, with Oysters, 297.
Mutton, Leg of, to stuff, 297. Mutton, Leg steaks,
300. Mutton, Leg, cut to send to table neatly, 298.
Mutton, Loin steaks, 300. Mutton, Loin of, to
carve, 111. Mutton, Loin of, stewed, 299. Mutton,
Loin of, like Venison, 305. Mutton, like Venison,
304. Mutton, Minced, 303. Mutton, Neck of, to carve, 111.
Mutton, Neck of, 299, 300. Mutton, Rognon de, à la
Française, 304. Mutton, Rumps and Kidneys, 307.
Mutton, Risseroles, 304. Mutton, Saddle of, to carve, 111.
Mutton, Saddle of, 297. Mutton, Saddle of, a la Polonaise 298.
Mutton, Scrags of, à la St. Menehould, 307. Mutton,
Shoulder of, 299. Mutton, Scrag of, to carve, 111. Mutton,
Shoulder of, with Rice, 299. Mutton, a Scotch Haggis; 304,
310. Mutton, Soyer's new chop, 299. Mutton, Tails and
Kidneys, 307. Mutton, Tails and Tongues, 308. Myrtle
Essence, 539. N Nail in the Foot, 565. Nails to whiten, 549. Napkins to
fold, 95. Napkins as the Mitre, 95. Napkins, as the Exquisite, 95. Napkins, as
the Collegian, 96. Napkins, as the Cinderella, 96. Napkins, as the Flirt, 96.
Napkins, the Neapolitan, 96. Napkins, the Favorite, 96. Nasturtiums,
132. Nasturtiums, pickled, 396. Neats' Tongue, to choose,
56. Neats' Tongue, potted, 350. Neats' Tongue, 291.
Negus, 516. Nettle-rash, 560. New Year's Cookies, 478. Nipple Liniment, 564.
Nougat, 494. November, Fish in Season for, 151. November, Fruits
in Season for, 151. November, Meats in Season for, 151. November,
Poultry and Game in Season for, 151. November, Vegetables in Season for,
151. Noyau, 516. Nursery Furniture, 46. Nutmeg, 130. 0 October,
Fish in Season for, 151. October, Fruits in Season for, 151.
October, Meats in Season for, 151. October, Poultry and Game in
Season for, 151. October, Vegetables in Season for, 151. Oeufs, Brouill&s,
463. Oeufs, Farcis, 462. Oeufs, Frits, 462. Oeufs, sur le Plat, 462. Oils for
the Hair, 545. Oil and Grease, to take out of boards, 570.
Ointments, 559. Ointment, Elderflower, 562. Ointment, Simple, 559. Ointment,
Resin, 559. Ointment, Oalamine, 559. Olives, 134. Omelettes, 460.
Omelettes, aux Amandes, 461. Omelette Cod, 191. Omelette, aux
Confitures, 461. Omelette, aux Fines Herbes, 461. Omelette, d' Huitres, 461.
Omelette, au Naturel, 461. Omelette, Soufflee, 461. Onions, 131, 388.
Onions, Spanish, 380. Onions, pickled, 393, 394 Orangeade, 521.
Orange Flower Essence, 539. Orange Fool, 492. Order and Method,
45. Oysters, à l'Imperiale, 210. Oysters, Breaded, 210.
Oysters, Broiled, 209. Oyster Curry, 210. Oyster
Forcemeat, 246. Oyster Fritters, 209. Oyster Garniture for
Omelettes, 464. Oyster Pie with Sweetbread, 210. Oysters,
Pickled, 211. Oysters, Roasted, 210. Oyster Rolls, 209 Oyster
Sausages, 210. Oysters, Scalloped, 203, 209, 211. Oyster,
Stewed, 211. Oysters with Brown Sauce, 209. Oysters with
White Sauce, 209. Ox-cheek, to collar, 353. Oxford Dumplings,
450. Ox-Feet, 272. Ox-Heart, 270. Ox-Kidneys, 272.
Ox-Tails, à la Jardiniere, 269. Ox-Tails, au Gratin, 269.
Ox-tongue, Remains, 272. P Packing Housekeeping Articles, 576; Pain
Perdu, 449. Pains after exertion, 564. Paint, to clean, 89. Paint, Outside,
568. Paint, to take out, 575. Palpitation, Draught for, 557. Panada, 519.
Panada, Chicken, 519. Panada, for Fish, 244 Panada for Quenelle,
244. Panada for Forcemeat, 244 Pancakes, 457. Pancakes, Apple,
457. Pancakes, Dutch, 457. Pancakes, New England, 457, Pancakes, Rice,
457. Parsley, 132. Parsley, to fry, 373. Parsnips, 382.
Parties, Evening, 41. Partridges and Pheasants, to pot, 348.
Partridges, broiled, 371. partridges, Salmi of, 371.
Partridges, stewed, 371, Passover Balls for Soup, 247. Passover Cakes,
483. Paste, to make, 70, 571. Paste, Flaky, 426. Paste,
permanent, 70. Paste of Beef or Mutton, to eat, like
Venison, 422. Paste, very light, 409. Paste, Puff, 408.
Paste, Almond, 432. Paste, 406. Paste for chapped
hands, 545 Paste for chapped lips, 546. Paste, Rye, 563.
Pastilles for the breath, 554 Pastilles, au Benzoin, 553. Pastilles for
Necklace, Bracelets, &c., 554  Pastilles,
à la Rose, 558. Pastilles, Simple, 553. Pastry, Fancy, 426. Patchouly,
539. Patchouly Extract, 540. Pate, Divine do Venus, 548. Pate, des Foies
Gras, 412. Pate, d Amandes des aux Jaunes d' aeufs, 548. Patties, 423. Patties,
Croustade or Dresden, 488. Patties with curds, 484. Patties like Mince Pies,
434. Patties, sweet, 430. Peafowls, 306. Peas, Garniture for Omelettes,
464. Peas, Sweet, Essence of, 540. Pencil Marks, to preserve,
571. Peaches and Apricots, to pickle, 398. Peas,
Green, 380. Peas, to preserve, 387. Peas Pudding, 386.
Pennyroyal, 182. Pepper, 130. Peppers, to pickle, 399.
Perfumery and the Toilet, 537. Perfume Linen, 571. Perigord Pie, 407. Perigortt
Pie, Mackenzie's 418. Perle Powders, 547. Pernicious effects of Distilling
Spirits, 510 Pets de, Nonne, 481. Pettitoes, 326. Pheasants, 375.
Pheasants, to carve, 115. Pickle for Meat, 354. Pickled
Apple Codlings, 400. Pickled Artichokes, 399. Pickled Barberries,
399. Pickled Butternuts, 399. Pickled Beans, French, 395. Pickled
Cabbage, Purple, 390. Pickled Cabbage, Red, 396. Pickled
Cabbage, White, 396. Pickled Cauliflower, 396. Pickled
Celery, 396. Pickled Cucumbers, 394. Pickled Gherkins and
Kidney Beans, 399. Pickled Garlic, 394. Pickled Grapes, 399.
Pickle, India. 398. Pickle, Mixed, 397. Pickled Mangoes, 397.
Pickled Mushrooms, 394. Pickled Nasturtiums, 396 Pickled
Onions, 393, 394. Pickled Peaches and Apricots, 398.
Pickled Peppers, Green, 399. Pickled Plums, 398. Pickled
Quince, 398 Pickled Radish Pods, 395. Pickled Shalots, 394.
Pickled Tomatoes, 397. Pickle, to last for years, 347. Pickle
Apricots, 398. Pickle Beef, à la Garrick, 274. Pickle
Cabbage, purple, 396. Pickle Cabbage, red, 396. Pickle
Cabbage, white, 396. Pickle Cucumbers, 394. Pickle
Garlic, 394. Pickle Gherkins, 399. Pickle Grapes, 399.
Pickle Herring, 354. Pickle Kidney Beans, 899. Pickle, Mixed,
397. Pickle Mushrooms, 894. Pickle Onions, 393, 394. Pickle
Oysters, 211. Pickle Peaches, 398. Pickle Plums, 398.
Pickle for Meat, 354. Pickle Neck of Pork, 322, 327.
Pickle Salmon, 201. Pictures on the wall, 21. Picture Frames, to
preserve, 570. Pie, Apple, 428. Pie, a fine Fish, 424.
Pie, a Christmas, 422. Pie, Beefsteak, 417. Pie, Beefsteak and
Oyster, 421. Pie, Calf's Head, 417. Pie, Calf's
Head or Calf's Foot, 420. Pie, Calf's Foot
and Kidney, 421. Pie, Chicken, 413. Pie, Coconut, 426.
Pie, Codfish 424. Pie, Cold Veal or Chicken, 417. Pies,
Cold, 419. Pie, Cracker, 427. Pies, Duck, 418. Pies, Eel,
414. Pie, Fish, 418. Pie, French, 419. Pie of Fowls, raised, 410.
Pies, Fruit, 425. Pie, Game, 418. Pie, Giblet, 413. Pie,
Gooseberry and other Fruits, 428. Pie, Green Goose, 418.
Pie, Grouse, 414. Pie, Hare, 419. Pie, Lamb, 413. Pie,
Lamb, hot, 411. Pies, Lent, 430. Pies, Mince, 427. Pie, Mutton,
412. Pie, Oyster, 416. Pie, Partridge, 414. Pie, Peach,
426. Pie of Pheasant, raised, 411. Pie, Pigeon,418. Pie, Plain
Custard, 427. Pies, Pork, to eat cold, 420. Pie, Pumpkin, 426.
Pie, Rabbit 413. Pies, Raised, Crust for, 407. Pie, Raised, Russian,
410. Pie, Raised, served hot, 410. Pies, Rhubarb, 426. Pie, Rumpsteak,
412. Pie, Snipe, 418. Pie, Squab, 421. Pies, Various, 412. Pie,
Veal, in a dish, 417. Pie, Veal and Ham, 412. Pie,
Veal and Oyster, 420. Pie, Veal and Sausage, 420.
Pie, Veal and Sweetbread, 420. Pie, Vegetable, 419. Pie
Yorkshire, Goose, 422. Pig, to Collar, 358. Pig's Feet,
335. Pig's Feet, à la St. Menehould, 326. Pig's Feet and
Ears, Mod, 327. Pig's Head, baked, 325. Pig's Head,
boiled, 325. Pigs Head, to collar, 325. Pig's Harslet, 327
Pig's Feet, stewed, 820. Pig's Kidneys, 885. Pig's Head,
to collar, 353. Pig's Cheek, 822. Pig's Face, for breakfast, 822.
Pig, Roast, 820. Pig, Roast, to carve, 118. Pig, to roast,
819. Pig, Bucking, to roast, 818. Pig, Sucking, to scald, 319.
Pig, Sucking, Hindquarter of, 319. Pigeons, broiled, 364.
Pigeons, to carve, 116. Pigeons, compote of, 365. Pigeons,
cooked as Woodcock, 365. Pigeons, in Jelly, 365.
Pigeons, or any Bird in Aspic Jelly, 365. Pigeons, potted,
350. Pigeons, Roasted, 364. Pigeons, Stewed, 365. Pilau of
Fowl, 302. Pilau, Indian, 300. Pills, Aperient, 508. Pimples,
502. Pithcaithly Bannock, 481. Placing Dishes at Dinner, 99. Plants, to dry,
571. Plate, 24, 25. Plate, to clean, 89. Plaster for Pains, 508. Plovers, 371.
Plover's Eggs, 371. Plum Cake, 475. Plums, pickled, 398.
Plum Porridge, 488. Plum Pudding Glacé, 498. Plummets
Pill, 559. Pöele, French, 363. Pöele, to boil Fowls in, 360.
Pöeling, 141. Polenta, 451. Polished Irons, to keep from rusting, 509.
Polish for Tables, 507. Pomatum, 545. Pommade de Beaute, 549. Pommade for
chapped lips, 549. Pommade, Victoria, 545. Pommade, des Sultanes, 548. Pommade,
de Ninon de l' Enclos, 648. Pommade for Tumors, 564. Pommade for Corns, 504.
Pone of Sweet Potato, 865. Pork, 818. Pork, to choose, 57.
Pork, boiled, of all kinds, 822. Pork, Chops or Steaks,
323. Pork, baked fagots, 827. Pork, chine, 321. Pork,
Outlets, 821, 822. Pork, Economical dish of, 828. Pork, Fillet,
to resemble Veal, 320. Pork, Griskin, 318 Pork, Hashed,
335. Pork, Head Cheese, 324. Pork, Jelly, 518
Pork, Leg of, boiled, 320. Pork, Leg of, roasted,
320. Pork, Leg of, to carve, 112. Pork, Leg of,
321.  Pork, Leg, mock Goose,
321. Pork, Liver Pudding, 324. Pork, Loin, 320.
Pork, Neck, rolled, 820. Pork, to pickle, 322, 347.
Pork, to restore, 331. Pork, Sparerib, roasted, 320. Pork,
Sparerib, 318. Pork, Spring or forehand, 330. Pork, Souse, 326.
Pork Tongues, 381. Porridge, 528. Port Wine Jelly, 519.
Potatoes, 377. Potato Barm, 467. Potatoes, Biscuits of, 379.
Potato Cheesecakes, 488. Potatoes, to brown, 8T8. Potatoes, à
la Maitre d' Hotel, 379. Potatoes, fried, 379. Potato, Flour,
378. Potato Jelly, 378. Potato Loaves, 378. Potatoes, to keep,
377. Potatoes, to mash, 378. Potatoes, New, 377. Potato Omelette, 379.
Potatoes and Peas for children, 529. Potato and Meat Salad, 271.
Potato Rissoles, 379. Potato Sandwiches, 270. Potatoes, to roast, 379.
Potato Souffle, 379. Potato Wall, 378. Pot Pie, 414. Pot Pourri, 552. Pot
Pourri, Sweet, 545. Potting and Collaring, 347. Pot all kinds of Game,
350. Pot Beef, 267, 349. Pot Beef like Venison, 349, 351.
Pot Birds, 349. Pot Chicken and Ham, 349. Pot Cowheels, 264 Pot
Hare, 349. Pot Mushrooms, 351. Pot Neat's Tongue, 350. Pot
Partridges, 348. Pot Pheasants, 348. Pot Pigeons, 350. Pot
Poultry and Game, 348. Pot Rabbits, 349. Pot Salmon, 202.
Pot Smelts, 350. Pot Veal, 282, 350, 354 Pot Venison, 350.
Poudre, de la Mer Rouge, 547. Poultice, Bread and Water, 557.
Poultry, 356. Poultry and Game for December, 152. Poultry and
Game for January, February, March, 149. Poultry and Game, for
April, May, June, July, 150. Poultry and Game for August, September,
October, November, 151. Poultry and Game, to pot, 348. Poultry and
Game, to choose, 58. Pound Cake, 478. Powdering, 72. Preparation
for bad breath, 554. Presents to servants, 29. Preston Salts, 551. Preserve
Apples, 499. Preserve Apricots, 50l. Preserve Barberry Cakes,
506. Preserve Blackberry Jam, 505. Preserve Blackberries whole,
508. Preserve Brandy Cherries, 506. Preserve Brandy Peaches, 501.
Preserve Cherry Jam, 505. Preserve Crab Apples, 499. Preserve
Currants, 503. Preserve Currants, dry, 504. Preserve Currant
Jam, 503. Preserve Figs, Green, 504. Preserve Figs, ripe,
504. Preserve Ginger, 504. Preserve Gooseberries, 502.
Preserve Green Corn, 507. Preserve Grapes in
Brandy, 508. Preserve Green Gages, 501. Preserve Lemon
Peel, 506. Preserve Mock Ginger, 506. Preserve
Nectarines, 501. Preserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly,
505. Preserve Peaches, 501. Preserve Peaches, fresh, 507.
Preserve Pears, 501. Preserve Pineapples, 499. Preserve
Pineapple Tart, 499. Preserve Plums, 501. Preserving, General
Directions for, 499. Preserve Quinces, 499. Preserve Raspberries,
508. Preserve Raspberry Cakes, 506. Preserve Raspberry Jam, 505.
Preserve Strawberries whole, 503. Preserve Tomatoes fresh, 507.
Preserve Tomatoes, ripe or green, 504. Preserve Watermelon Rind,
498. Primrose Ointment, 557. Principles of Housekeeping, 80. Prussian Cutlets,
336. Pudding, Almond, 442. Pudding, Almond and Sauce, 441.
Pudding, Batter, 448. Pudding, the Baked Plum, 440. Pudding, Baked
Apple, 442. Pudding, Beefsteak, 414, 488. Pudding, Bird's Nest,
443. Pudding, Black Cap, 448. Pudding, Boston, 441. Pudding, Boston
Cracker, 447. Pudding, Brandy, 447. Pudding, Bread, baked,
444. Pudding, Bread and Butter, 446. Pudding, Brown Bread,
446. Pudding, Demi Plum, 445. Pudding, Chocolate, 447. Pudding,
Cocoanut, 445. Pudding, Chicken, baked, 438. Pudding, English
Plum, 440. Pudding, Farina, 442. Pudding, Pine German, 448. Pudding,
Fish, 417. Pudding, Frozen, 498. Pudding, Fruit, 436. Pudding,
Game, 488. Pudding, Gloucester, 450. Pudding, Goose, 439.
Pudding, Ground Rice, 440, 445. Pudding, Ground Rice with
Fruit, 445. Pudding, Hasty, 442. Pudding, Indian, 444. Pudding,
Jenny Lind, 441. Pudding, Kidney, 416. Pudding, Lamb, 415.
Pudding, Lemon, 442. Pudding, Maccaroni, 445. Pudding,
Marlborough, 440. Pudding, Marrow, 439. Pudding, Meat, 436.
Pudding, Muffin and Crumpet, 447. Pudding, Mutton, 415. Pudding à
la Nesselrode, 449. Pudding, Newcastle, 441. Pudding, Oatmeal, 445.
Pudding, Orange, 443, 448. Pudding, Paradise, 442. Pudding, Plain Pace,
448. Pudding, Polka, 441. Pudding, Pork, 415. Pudding, Potato,
426. Pudding, Pumpkin, 426. Pudding, Quaking, 447. Pudding,
Quince, 448. Pudding, Rabbit, 416. Pudding, Richelieu, 441.
Pudding, Rich Plum, 439. Pudding, Roly Poly, 448. Pudding, Sago,
444. Pudding, Sponge, 447. Puddings, Suet, 437. Puddings, Sweet, 436,
439. Puddings, Sweetmeat, 448. Puddings, Tansy, 439. Puddings,
Tapioca, 444. Puddings, Yorkshire, 416, 488. Puddings, Veal, 415.
Puddings, Vermicelli, 447. Puffs, Light, 429. Puffs, Spanish, 484
puff paste, 408. Punch, 518. Punch, Milk, 514. Punch, English,
513. Punch, French, 514. Punch. Norfolk, 513. Punch, Regent's, 518. Punch,
Tea, 514. Punch, Victoria, 514. Punch, Wine, 514. Purée of
Cauliflower, 236. Purée of Cucumber, 239. Purée of
Onion, 227. Purée of Lobster, 186. Purée of
Turnips, 184. Purée de Volaille, 368. Q Quaking Pudding, 447.
Qualifications of Servants, 28. Quihi Sauce, 240. Queen Cake, 477.
Quenelles, 129. Quin's Sauce, 406. Quince, Pickled, 398
Quince Pudding, 448. Quinces, to preserve, 499. Quinine,
558. R Rabbit, to carve, 113. Rabbits, Fricasseed, 372.
Rabbits, Potted, 349. Rabbits, to skin, 373.
Rabbits, Pilau of, 373.  Rabbits to
taste like Hare, 372. Radish Pods, pickled, 395. Ragoût of
Cod Sounds, 190. Ragoût of Fish, 214 Raised Crust for Pies,
407. Bamequins, 455. Ramequins, à la Parisienne, 455. Ramequins, fried,
455. Ramifolle, 336. Ratifias, 484, 511. Remains of Ox Tongue,
272. Rennet, 400. Rennet Whey, 523. Rheumatism, Medicine for, 560,
Ribbons to wash, 572. Rice and Apples, 528. Rice to boil,
452. Bice Bread, 466. Rice Cake, 485. Rice Croquettes,
452. Rice, Casserole de His, 453. Rice Croquettes, with
Apricot Marmalade, 453. Rice Cakes, 468. Rice Fritters,
452. Rice Flummery, 491. Rice, Gateau of, 453. Rice Gruel
521. Rice Pudding with Fruit, 528. Rice for Savory
dishes, 452. Rice Milk, 443. Rice for Sweet Dishes, 452. Rice
Water, 523. Richmond Maids of Honor, 486. Rich Gravy, 222. Ringworm,
cure for, 557. Ris de Veau, en Caisses, 294. Rissoles of all kinds, 227, 247.
Rissoles of Fowl, 368. Roasting, 137. Roast Beef of Lamb, 296.
Roast Beef, Sirloin, 251. Roast Beefsteaks, 255. Roast
Beef Tongue, 262. Roast Ducks, 369. Roast Fillet of Beef,
251. Roast Fillet of Veal, 267. Roast Fowls, 361. Roast
Goose, 368. Roast Ham, 330. Roast Hare, 372. Roast Leg of
Lamb, 312. Roast Leg of Mutton, 297. Roast Leg of Pork, 320.
Roast Meat to baste, 189. Roast Meat to brown, 139. Roast
Meat to froth, 189. Roast Oysters, 210. Roast Pig, 319, 320.
Roast Pigeons, 364. Roast Pike, 195. Roast Potatoes, 379. Roast
Shad, 194. Roast Shoulder of Venison, 375. Roast Sparerib, 320.
Roast Sucking Pig, 318. Roast Trout, 195. Roast
Sweetbreads, 291, 317. Roast Turkey, 356. Rocks, 468. Rolls, 468.
Rondaletia, Essence of, 540. Rooms, Airing of, 35. Rose, 540. Rose Face Powder,
546. Rose Lip Salve, 549. Rosemary, Otto of, 541. Rose, Moss, Essence
of, 540, Rose, Tea, Essence of, 541. Rose, Triple, Esprit de, 540. Rose,
White, Essence of, 540. Routine of Daily Work, 42. Rudiments of Cookery,
136. Rusk, to make, 469, 470. S Sachet, à la Frangipanne, 552, Sachet,
Heliotrope, 552, 552. Sachet, Lavender, 552. Sachet, à la
Mousselaino, 552. Sachet, Millefleur, 552. Sachet, Portugal, 552. Sachet,
Patchouly, 552. Sachet, Rose, 552. Sack Posset, 513. Saffron, 184.
Sage, 132. Sago Fruit Pudding, 525. Sago Gruel, 522.
Salads, 890. Salad. Chicken, 390, 391. Salad, Family, 271, Salad
Dressing, 390. Salad. Dressing for Lettuce, 390. Salad, Fish,
392. Salad of Fowl, 391. Salad, Lobster, 392. Salad, Mayonnaise.
392. Salade, Pickle, 406. Salade, Sidney Smith's Receipt for, 389.
Salads, Summer, 391. Salads, Winter, 391. Sully Lunn, 468. Salmon,
Dried, 530. Salsify, 380, 382. Salsop, 135. Salt, Bay, 129.
Salt, Rock, 129. Sandwiches, 582. Sangaree, 514. Saponaceous Cream of
Almonds, 547. Sauce, Anchovy Butter, 235. Sauce,
Anchovy, Butter of, 215. Sauce, Anchovy, for
Fish, 215. Sauce, à l' Allemande, 241. Sauce,
Apple, 232. Sauce, Apple, Savory, 232.
Sauce, Aspic, the, 221. Sauce, Bechamel, 227, 228. Sauce,
Beef Gravy, 220. Sauce, Beef Gravy, French Receipt, 220.
Sauce, Blanche, 228. Sauce, Blonde of Veal, 240.
Sauce, Bread, 228. Sauce, Brown, 215. Sauce, Brown,
Cucumber, 284. Sauce, Brown, Mushroom, 235. Sauce,
Brown, Mushroom, thin, 234 Sauce, Brown, Sharp or Poivrade, 237.
Sauce, Brown, Soyer's, 233. Sauce, Brown Thickening, 228.
Sauce, Caper, Brown, 223. Sauce, Caper, for
Fish, 215. Sauce, Caper, à la Francaise, 241.
Sauce, Caper, to imitate, 241. Sauce, Caper, for
Meat, 242. Sauce, Caper, White, 223. Sauce,
Carachi, 239. Sauce, Carrack or Indian, 222, Sauce,
Celery, 225, 243. Sauce, Chestnut, 229. Sauce,
Chetney and Quihi, 240. Sauce, Cod, 217. Sauce,
Cranberry, 243. Sauce, Cullis, 231. Sauce, Cullis, the,
240. Sauce, Currant, 282. Sauce, Curry Powder,
Delhi, 221. Sauce, Curry, Kitchener's, 221. Sauce,
Curry Powders, 221, Sauce, Curry, plain, 221.
Sauce, Currry, Soyer's, 236. Sauce, Demi Glaze, 233, Sauce
for Ducklings, 232. Sauce Dutch, French Receipt, 227. Sauce,
Eel, 217. Sauce, Egg, 215,224. Sauce, Epicurean,
222. Sauce, Eschalot, 234. Sauce, à l' Espagnole,
238. Sauce, Fennel, 215, 223, 226. Sauce for Fish,
214, 217. Sauce, Fish of all kinds, 214. Sauce, Fresh
Pork, 226. Sauce for Fricandeau, 231. Sauce,
Garlic, 235. Sauce, Gooseberry, 231. Sauce, for
Geese, 231. Sauce, Glaze, French Receipt, 227. Sauce,
Gravy, 218. Sauce, Gravy, clear, 220. Sauce,
Gravy, to make Mutton taste like Venison, 220.
Sauce, Gravy, stock for, 219. Sauce, Gravy,
for Venison Haunch, 220. Sauce, Gravy, for Veal,
220. Sauces,Gravies, &c., 218. Sauce, Gravy, rich,
222. Sauce, Harvey, 225. Sauce, à l' Hollandaise, 238.
Sauce, Horseradish, 214, 224. Sauce, Hot Spice,
222. Sauce, India Pickle, 287. Sauce, Italian, for Salads,
226. Sauce, Lemon, for boiled Fowls, 228. Sauce,
Lemon, white, 228. Sauce, Liaison, 231. Sauce,
Liaison of Eggs, 235. Sauce, Liver, 229. Sauce,
Liver, for boiled Chickens, 229. Sauce, Lobster,
218. Sauce, Lobster, à la Creme, 215. Sauce,
Lobster, French, 216. Sauce, Lobster, new, 215.
Sauce, Lobster, simplified, 216. Sauce, Lobster and
Shrimp, 216. Sauce, for made dishes, 288. Sauce, Mandram,
224. Sauce, la Magnonnaise, 239. Sauce, Maigre, 288.
Sauce, Maitre d' Hotel butter, 223. Sauce, à la
Maitre d' Hotel, 231. Sauce, Matelote, 217. Sauce, Matelote,
simplified, 217. Sauce, Melted Butter, 222. Sauce, Melted
Butter, to brown, 223. Sauce, à la Militaire, 405.
Sauce, Minced Herb, 234. Sauce, Mint, 226.
Sauce, Mint, for Lamb, 235. Sauce, Mint, for
Roast Lamb, 224.  Sauce,
Mushroom, 224. Sauce, Mushroom Ketchup, 242. Sauce,
Mussel, 217. Sauce, Nasturtium, 243. Sauce,
Onion, 225. Sauce, Onion, Brown, 225. Sauce,
Onion Purée, 236, Sauce, Orange, for Game,
235. Sauce, Orange Gravy, 226. Sauce, Oude, the Original,
239. Sauce, Oyster, 225. Sauce, Papillotte, 235.
Sauce, Parsley and Butter, 223. Sauce, Piquant,
238. Sauce, Piquant or Sharp, 234. Sauce, Poivrade, 237.
Sauce, à la Provencale, 238. Sauce, Purée of
Cauliflower, 236. Sauce, Purée of Cucumber, 239.
Sauce, Purée of Onion, 22T. Sauce, Queen Mary's,
224. Sauce, Ravigote, 234. Sauce, à la Reine, 239. Sauces
for Roast Fowls, 280. Sauce, Robert, 227. Sauce for
Roast Beef and Mutton. 224. Sauce, Robert, Soyer's, 234
Sauce, Royale, 239. Sauce, Roux, 231. Sauce for
Salmon, 216. Sauce for Shrimp, 216, 218. Sauce,
Soyer's, 235. Sauce, Spinach, Purée, 237. Sauce,
Spinach, 238. Sauce, à la St. Menehould, 239. Sauce
for Steaks and Chops, 243. Sauces, Store, 405. Sauce, Soubise,
227. Sauce for Sucking Pig, 232. Sauce, Tarragon,
226, 234. Sauce à la Tartare, 226. Sauce, Tomato,
226. Sauce, Tomato, Soyer's, 235. Sauce, Truffle,
229. Sauce, Tournée, 240. Sauce, Tomato, Francaise,
242. Sauce, Tomatoes, Garniture, 242. Sauce,
Tomato, à l' Italienne, 242. Sauce, Tomato Ketchup,
248. Sauce, Veal Gravy, 240. Sauce, Veloute of Bechamel, a
new method, 241. Sauce, Vegetable Marrow, 230, Sauce,
Veloute, the, 241. Sauce, Veloute, 220. Sauce, Walnut
Ketchup, 243. Sauce, White Cream for Purée. 237.
Sauce, White, 214, 229, 230. Sauce, White Roux,
228. Sauce, White, for Chickens, 229. Sauce for
White Poultry, boiled 229. Sauce, White, Soyer's, 232.
Sauce, White, very good, (new) 236. Sauces for Wild Fowl,
232. Sauce, White Thickening, 238. Sauce, Worcester, 419.
Saucepan Digester, 123. Sauer Kraut, 383. Sauer Kraut, to serve, 383.
Saucisses, au Chataignes, 325. Saucisses, à l' Espagnole, 324.
Sausages, 323, 324. Sausages, Beef, 388. Sausages,
Black Puddings, 327, Sausages, Black and White, 327.
Sausages, Bologna, 324. Sausage Cakes,334. Sausage,
to eat cold, 338. Sausages, Fowl or Rabbit, 339.
Sausages and Forcemeat, 337. Sausage Meat, 338.
Sausages, Mutton, 338. Sausages, Oyster, 338.
Sausages, Spanish and Portuguese, 339. Sausages, Spiced, 325.
Sausage Toast, 530. Sausages, University Receipt for, 324.
Sausages, Veal and Poultry, 339. Sausages, White,
325, 327, 340. Savon au Miel, 547. Savory, 182. Savory Dishes for
Breakfast, 529. Scorzonera, 380, 382. Scarlet Fever, 556. Scotch
Woodcock, 530. Scollops of Calf's Liver with herbs,
292. Scollops of Sweetbread with Peas, 292. Scorched Linen, to
renew, 570. Scotch Short Bread, 483. Sea Kale, 382. Sea Pie, 276.
Seasoning for Raised Pies, 410. Seasoning for a Goose,
248. Seasoning for Stuffing, 245. Seasoning for Roast
Pork, 248. Seasoning for Ducks or Geese, 248.
Seasoning for a Sucking Pig, 248. Second Course at Dinner, 100.
Seed Cake 480. Semonlina, 527. September, Fish in Season for,
151. September, Fruits in Season for, 151. September, Meats in
Season for, 151. September, Poultry and Game in Season for, 151.
September, Vegetables in Season for, 151. Servants, 26. Serve Fish, 107.
Serving Dinner, 40. Serving Breakfasts, 43, 94. Servants' Duties, 42. Servants'
Perquisites, 28. Shalots Pickled, 394. Shaving Pastes, 555. Sheep's
Head, 308. Sheep's Bumps and Kidneys, 135. Sheep's
Tails and Kidneys, 307. Sheep's Tails and Tongues, 308.
Sheep's Tongues stewed, 305, Sheep's Trotters, 309. Sheep's
Tongues with Turnips, 311. Sheep's Tongues with
Cabbage Lettuces, 311. Shellfish, to pot, 348. Short Cakes, 468. Shoes,
to make Waterproof, 578. Sick, Cookery for, 517. Sieves, 124. Silk, to clean,
570. Silver, to clean, 571. Silver Flowers, to paint on Silk, 571. Simnel, 429.
Sippets, 519. Slip, 489. Smearcase, 454. Smelts, Potted, 350.
Soap, to keep, 55. Soaps, 547. Soap, Frangipanne, 547.
Soap, to keep, 54. Soap, Transparent, 547. Soda, in
washing, 55. Somersetshire Fromity, 523. Souffle of Apples, 453. Soups,
155. Soup, Asparagus, with Green Peas, 180. Soup, del Asperse,
180. Soup, Autumn, 168. Soup, Baked, 169. Soup, Bean, 180. Soup,
Brown Gravy, 157. Soup, Brown, Stock for, 157. Soup, Browning
for, 159. Soup Cabbage, 182. Soup, Cock-a-Leckie, 165. Soup, à la
Creci or Carrot, 182. Soup, Clam, 186,187. Soup, Cottage, 164.
Soup, Eel, 187. Soup, Family, 163. Soup, Fish, 185. Soup,
à la Francaise, 163. Soup, Giblet, 169. Soup, Gravy, 161.
Soup, Green Pea Porridge, 182. Soup, Hare, 178. Soup, Hare
or Wild Duck, 178. Soup, Harico, 162. Soup, Hessian, 167. Soup, Hutch
Potch, 166. Soup, Hoteh Potch, English, 168. Soup, Italienne, 181. Soup,
Jophson's, 524. Soup, à la Julienne, 180. Soup, Julienne, with
Consommé. 181. Soup, Julienne, Soyer's, 181. Soup, Jenny Lind's, 162.
Soup, Lake and Pond Fish, 188. Soup, Lamb, 168. Soup, Leek
or Onion, 183. Soup, Leg of Beef Broth, 168. Soup,
Lobster, 185. Soup, Maccaroni, 182. Soup, Maccaroni, with
Consommé. Soup, Mock Turtle, 172,177. Soup, Mock Turtle,
English, 175. Soup, Mullagatawny, 170. Soup, Mullagatawny, Soyer's, 166. Soup,
Mullagatawny, English, 167. Soup, Mutton, 168. Soup, Mutton
Broth, 169. Soup, New England Chowder 187. Soup, Heat's Feet, 173.
Soup, Ochra, 161. Soup, Onion, 183. Soup, Ox-tail, 163.
Soup, Oyster, 186. Soup, Partridge, 179. Soup, Pepperpot,
161,184. Soup, Pepperpot Hotchpotch, 166.  Soup
Pigeon, 178. Soup, Potato Maigre, 188. Soup, Potage à la
Reine, 170. Soup, Portable, 159. Soup, Portable White, 160. Soup, Potage
à la Reine (Udes), Soup, Pot au feu, French, 162. Soup, Pot au feu, 161.
Soup, Purée of Lobster, 186. Soup, Purée of Turnip,
184 Soup, à la Reine Victoria, 167. Soup, Rice, 170. Soup,
Rice and Meat, 163. Soup, Rice Cream, 177. Soup,
Sago, 165. Soup, à la Sap, 167. Soup, Sauté, 184. Soup,
Savory Jelly, 179. Soup, Scotch Kail, 164 Soup, Scotch
Broth, 165. Soup, Scotch Barley Broth, 169. Soups, Seasonings for,
156. Soup, Snapping Turtle, 179. Soup, Sheep's Head, 165. Soup,
Soyer's Brown Gravy, 158. Soup, Soyer's Glaze, 150. Soup, Sorrel,
183. Soup, Spring, 167,181,184. Soup, Stock for Fish, 185. Soup,
Stock for all kinds of, 158. Soup, Stock for White, 156.
Soup, Summer, 168. Soup, Tomato, 180, 183. Soup, la Tortue, 178. Soup,
Transparent, 160. Soup, Turtle, 171. Soup, Veal Broth, 168, 170.
Soup, Veal Potage, 170. Soup, Vegetable, 179. Soup, Voloute, 178. Soup,
Venison, 171. Soup, White, 161, 163. Soup, White Stock,
160. Soup, Winter, 168. Soup, Winter Pea, 182. Soup, Winter Vegetable,
184. Soy, 135. Spinach, 382. Spiritwash, 558. Sponges, to clean, 568.
Sponge Cake, 477. Sprain, 560. Sprains and Bruises, 560. Spring, Aperient, 563.
Squashes or Cymbelins, 385. Squash, Winter, 385. Steel Forks, to
clean, 89. Steel Pens, to preserve from corrosion, 581. Stewing, 142.
Stew Beans, 386. Stew Beef, 252, 256. Stew Beefsteaks, 255.
Stew Beef Tongue, 262. Stew Breast of Lamb, 315. Stew Breast
of Mutton, 300. Stew Brisket of Beef, 253, 262. Stew Breast of
Veal, 278. Stew Carp, 196. Stew Crabs, 207. Stew Duck
and Peas, 369. Stew Fillet of Mutton, 302. Stew First Watch, 276.
Stew Fish, 214. Stew Halibut, 191. Stew Knuckle of Veal,
279. Stew Lobster, 204. Stew Loin of Lamb, 313. Stew Loin of
Mutton, 299. Stew Mackerel, 193. Stew Neck of Veal, 279.
Stew Partridges, 371. Stew Pig's Feet, 326. Stew Bump
Steak, 259. Stew Sheep's Tongues, 305. Stew Shoulder of
Venison, 375. Stew Sturgeon, 197. Stew Sweetbreads, 290, 811. Stew
Trout, 199. Stew Watercress, 338. Stock for Gravy, 219.
Stoppering, 61. Stove. Cooking, 85. Stove, Cottager's, 85. Stuffing,
245. Straining Liquids, 58. Strengthening Jelly, 518, Strasburg Potted
Meat, 274. Succotash, 384. Suet, 147. Sugar, 134. Sugar
Almonds, 509. Sugar, to boil for Spinning, 508. Sugar
Bonbons, 509. Sugar Cake, 479. Sugar, to clarify, 508.
Sugar, Degrees of boiling, 508. Sugar Taffie, 509. Suppers, 103.
Sweetbreads, 290. Sweetbreads, fricasseed brown, 291.
Sweetbread, Croquettes of, 291. Sweetbreads, Croquettes of,
French Receipt, 292. Sweetbreads, Fricasseed White, 291.
Sweetbreads, Fried, 290. Sweetbreads, à la Daube, 290.
Sweetbreads, Roasted, 291. Sweetbreads, to roast, 291.
Sweetbreads, Stewed, 290. Sweetbreads, Scollops of, with Green
Peas, 292. Sweet Corn, 385. Sweet Potato Pone, 385. Syllabub,
489. Syllabub, Country, 491. Sympathetic Inks, 573. T Table, Direction of, 87.
Table Furniture, 87. Tables, Laying out of, 94. Tainted Meat, to
restore, 254. Tamarinds, 524. Tankard, Cool, 513. Tapioca, 185.
Tapioca Milk, 525. Tarragon, 182. Tart, Apricot,
428. Tart, Codling, 428. Tarts, Cranberry, 482. Tartlets of
Almond Paste, 483. Tartlets, Green Apricots, 481. Tart,
Green Gooseberry, 433. Tartlets, à la Paganini, 432. Tartlets,
Prune, 432. Tartlets, Lemon, 431. Tarts, Small Fruit, 431.
Tartlets with Strawberries, 483. Tea, 496. Tea,
Balm, 521. Tea, Beef, 518. Tea Cream, 498.
Tea, Dandelion and Parsley, 523. Tea, Elderflower,
522. Teas, 103.
 Terms, Foreign, Glossary of-- Atalets, 126. Baba,
126. Bain Marie, 126. Bard, 126. Beignet, 126. Blanc, 126. Blanch, 126.
Blanquette, 127. Bouilli, 127. Bouillon, 127. Bouquet, 127, Bouquet garni, 127.
Bourguighote, 127. Braise, 127. Brioche, 127. Buisson, 127. Callipash, 127.
Callipee, 127. Capilotade, 127. Caramel, 127. Casserole, 127. Civet,
127. Compeigne, 127. Compotier, 127. Compote, 127. Consomme, 127. Couronne,
127. Court, 127. Coulis, 127. Croquettes, 127. Croustades, 127. Croutons, 127.
Dorez, 127. Dorure, 127. En papillote. 127. Entremets, 127. Entrée, 127.
Farce, 128. Financiere, 128. Flan, 128. Faggot, 128. Fricandeaux, 128. Gateau,
128. Glaze, 128. Glaze Ice, 128. Godiveau, 128. Gras, 123. Gratin, 128. Hors d'
Oeuvre, 128. Lard, 128. Lardon, 128. Liaison, 128. Madeleine, 128.
Maigre, 128. Marinade, 128. Mash, 128. Matelote, 128. Meringue, 128. Miroton,
128. Nouilles, 128. Panada, 128. Pate, 128. Poélee, 128. Posset, 128.
Potage, 128. Pot au feu, 128, Puree, 128. Quenelles, 129. Rissole, 129. Roux,
129. Salmi, 129. Sabotière, 129.  Sauter,
129. Tamis, 129. Terrapins, Stewed, 208. Test of the Utility of
Knowledge 15. Third Course at Dinner, 100. Tourner, 129. Tourte, 129. Vanner,
129. Velouté, 129. Vol au vent, 129.
 Thoughts and Maxims on Housekeeping,  15. All Soups,
148. Apples, to choose and keep, 146. Bag for Tape, Strings, Buttons,
&c., 145, Bones for Soup, 144. Bread Pounded for Puddings,
144. Brewis, 144. Brooms, 145. Buffaloes' Tongues, 145. Carrots,
147. Cauliflowers, 147. Celery, 147. Cleanliness the first,
second, and third requisite for a Cook, 143. Clean Hands always, 148. Cold
Water cracks Iron, 148. Copper Vessels dangerous, 148. Corning Meat,
146. Cover Castors, 145. Cover Flour, Sugar, &c., 143. Deaths
from rust on copper vessels, 144. Dinner plates hot, 144. Dirty Saucepans
dangerous, 144. Eggs in Lime water, 144. Empty Saucepans after
using, 143. Fish, to cook, 148. Foundation of poverty or riches, 144.
Fragments of time valuable, 144. Game, to clean, &c., 147.
Gravies, 147. Herbs, to dry, 146. Herbs, to keep, 145.
Horseradish, 145. Hams, to put away, 146. Honey, 146.
Jelly Bags, 148. Ironing Blanket and Sheet, 145. Keep Tin and Copper
clean, 143. Kitchen, dirty, a Disgrace, 148. Knives, to wash, 145. Knives and
Forks to keep from rusting, 145. Keeping Meats, 146. Keep Onions
from other things, 143. Lamps, to prevent from smelling, 144. Lard, to
melt, 147, Lemonpeel Brandy, 145. Legs of Mutton, cured, 146.
Marjoram, sweet, to dry, 144. Molasses, to improve, 145. Maxims,
143. Mustard, to mis, 147. Onions on Ropes, 148. Orange or
Lemon peel in Pots, 146. Ox Gall, its use, 144. Pastry, to bake,
148. Place for every thing, 146. Potatoes in Shortcakes, &c., 146.
Pudding Towels, 148. Raisin Wine, 148. Reindeer's Tongues, to
imitate, 145. Roseleaves in Brandy, 145. Sago, to prepare, 147.
Salt and Sperm Candles in Starch, 145. Shoulder of Veal
economical, 145. Soap, cut and dry, 146. Soak soiled clothes, 145. Stone
on Meat in pickle, 145. Stock Pot never empty, 146.
Smoking Meat, 146. Stocks and Sauces, 148. Suet, 147.
Surveillance of the Mistress necessary, 148. Tin and Wooden ware, 144.
Tongue, to soak, 147. True Economy of Housekeeping, 144. Towels in the
Kitchen, 145. Wax, to separate from Honeycomb, 145. Thyme, 132.
Tincture of Benzoin, 544. Tincture of Santal-citrin, 544.
Tincture of Sassafras, 544. Tin Covers, to clean, 57 Tins, 574.
Tipperary Curry, 419. Tipsy Cake, 488. Toad in a Hole, 416.
Toast, Anchovy, 530. Toast, German, 530. Toast Ham,
530. Toast Kidney, 530. Toast Sausage, 530. Toast
Vegetable, 530. Toast Water, 521. Toilet, the, 537. Tomatoes,
385. Tomatoes, to stuff, 386. Tomatoes, Garniture of, 242.
Tomatoes, Pickled, 397. Tomatoes, to keep fresh, 507.
Tomatoes, Ripe or Green, to preserve, 504. Tomato Sauce,
226. Tomato Sauce, Soyer's, 235. Tomato Ketchup, 343. Tomato
Sauce, & l' Italienne, 242. Tomato Sauce, Francaise, 242.
Tomatoes, Scolloped, 386. Tomato Soup, 180, 183. Tongues,
Beef, 262. Tongue, Beef, to cure, 257. Tongue,
Beef, to dress, 257. Tongue, Beef, fresh, 263.
Tongue, Beef, larded, 257. Tongue, Beef, to eat
cold, 262. Tongue, Beef, and Udder, fresh, 263.
Tongues, to cure, 348. Tongues, to carve, 112. Tongues,
Pork, 331. Tongue, to roast, 262. Tongue, to stew, 262.
Tongues, Pigs', 381. Tongnes and Tails, Sheep's, 303.
Tongues, Sheep's, 343. Tongues, Sheep's, stewed,
305. Tongues, Sheep's, with Turnips, 311. Tongues,
Sheep's with Cabbage, Lettuces, 311. Tooth Powder, 552. Top Pot,
139. Tops and Bottoms, 471. Tortue, la, Soup, 173. Tournee Sauce, 240.
Training of Children, 49. Transparent Crust, 408. Transparent Soap, 547.
Transparent Soup, 160. Trifle. German, 489. Trifles, Gooseberry or
Apple. 489. Trifles, 445. Triple Esprit de Rose, 540. Trotters,
Sheep's, 309. Trout, Stewed, 199. Trout, in the Foreign
mode, 198. Trout, Roasted, 195. Trout. Fried, 195.
Truffle, 183. Truffles, 389. Truffles with
Champagne, 389. Truffle Sauce, 229. Truss Chickens, 105.
Truss Fowls, 105. Truss a Goose, 104. Truss Hare or
Rabbit, 106. Truss Pheasants, 105. Truss Pigeons, 106.
Trussing Poultry, 103. Trussing Small Birds, 106. Trussing a Turkey,
104. Trussing Wild Fowl, 106. Tumors, Pomade for, 564. Turbot à
la Creme, 199. Turesicus, 310. Turkey, Boiled, 357. Turkey,
Boiled, braised, 358. Turkey or Fowl, forced, 357. Turkey
Giblets, & la Bourgeois, 367. Turkey, Hashed, 357.
Turkey, with Sausage meat, 356. Turkey, to roast, 356.
Turkey with Sausage meat and Tongues, 857. Turkey
Poult, 357. Turkey, Pulled and grilled, 360. Turkey, with flat
Sausage Cake, 357. Turkey, Roast, braised, 358. Turkey, if
old, 359. Turkey, Roast or boiled, to carve. 113. Turnips, 382.
Turnips, whole, 389. Turnip Purée Soup, 184.
Turnips, Purée of, 389. Turnips, with Buckling, 370.
Turtle, 212. Turtle, Eggs for, 247. Turtle Soup,
171. Twickenham Trout, 198. Tying Down, 61. Tying Parcels up, 77. Tying
Vessels over, 76. U Udder, Beef, 263. Udder Farce, 244.  University Receipt for Sausages, 324.
Unstoppering, 61. Utensils, Culinary, 116. V Vanilla, 184.
Vanilla, Extract of, 541. Vapor Bath, 564. Vapor Alcoholique,
551. Varnish for Mahogany, 567. Veal, Breast of, to collar, 353.
Veal, Cervelles de veau Fricassees, 289. Veal, to choose, 56.
Veal, Blanquettes, 295. Veal, Blonde of, 240. Veal,
Breast of, to carve, 109. Veal, Breast of, 278.
Veal, Breast of, to stew, 278. Veal, Breast of,
forced, 278, Veal Broth, 168,170. Veal Cake, 294. Veal
Collops, to dress quickly, 283. Veal, Collops of, 281. Veal, a la
Chartreuse. 295. Veal, cold Scollops of, 293. Veal, Curry
of, 296. Veal, Curry, 287. Veal Cutlets, 280. Veal
Cutlets and Celery, 284. Veal Cutlets, Crumbed or plain, 280.
Veal Cutlets, curried, 280. Veal Cutlets, a la Hollandaise, 284.
Veal Cutlets with White Sauce,284. Veal Cutlets, a la
Maintenon, 281. Veal Cutlets en papillotte, 283. Veal Outlets and
Rice, 284. Veal Cutlets, another way, 280. Veal, Fillet
of, boiled, 277. Veal, Fillet of, boiled, English, 277. Veal
Farcies, 284. Veal, Fillet of, to carve, 109. Veal, Fillet of,
roasted, 277. Veal, Fillet of, to roast, 277. Veal, Fricandels
of, 286. Veal, Fricandeau of, 286. Veal. Galantine, 281, 287.
Veal Garniture en Ragout, 294. Veal Gravy, 220, 240. Veal,
Haricot of, 287. Veal, Hashed, 282. Veal, Knuckle, 278.
Veal, Knuckle of, to carve, 109. Veal, Knuckle of; boiled, 278.
Veal, Knuckle of, stewed, 279. Veal Liver and Bacon,
fried, 289. Veal, Loin, boiled, 278. Veal, Loin,
braised, 282. Veal, Loin, roasted, 277. Veal, Loin
of, to carve, 109. Veal, to marble, 295. Veal, to mince, 296.
Veal, to mince, Turkish way, 296. Veal, Miroton of, 286.
Veal, Neck of, to carve, 109. Veal, Neck, braised,
279. Veal, Neck, with new Potatoes, 279. Veal,
Neck, with Peas, 279. Veal, Neck, stewed, 279.
Veal, Olives of, 287. INDEX. Veal Olives roti, 281.
Veal, Potted, 350, 354. Veal, Potted, 282. Veal Potage,
171. Veal and Poultry Sausages, 839. Veal Puddings, 415.
Veal, Queues of, 288. Veal, Boiled, 285. Veal Bolls, 295.
Veal, Scotch Collops, 288. Veal, Shoulder of, 279.
Veal, Scollops of Sweetbreads, 292. Veal, Shoulder of, to
carve, 110. Veal, Tendons of, 281. Vegetable Soup, 179. Vegetables, to
keep, 55. Vegetables for children, 529. Vegetables for April, May, June, July,
150. Vegetables for August, September, October, November, 151. Vegetables for
December, 152. Vegetables for January, February, Vegetable Marrow, 280.
Vegetables for March, 149. Veloute, the, 220, 241. Veloute of Bechamel, 241.
Veloute Sauce, 220. Veloute Soup, 178. Venison, to choose, 57.
Venison, Fried, 874. Venison, Hashed, 874. Venison, Haunch
of, to carve, 112. Venison Haunch, 874. Venison Haunch
Gravy, 220. Venison, Neck of, to carve, 112.
Venison Pasty, 407. Venison, Potted, 850. Venison,
Shoulder of, roasted, 875. Venison, Shoulder of, stewed, 875.
Venison Soup, 171. Venison Steaks, 374. Ventilation, 20. Verbena,
Extract of, 541. Verbena or Vervaine, 541. Verjuice, 184.
Vermicelli, 451. Vermicelli, au Lait, 526. Vermicelli
Puddings, 447. Vermin, to destroy, 579. Verviene, Extrait de, 541. Vials, to
wash, 576. Victimized Cutlets, 337. Victoria Punch, 514. Vinegar,
Aromatic, 549. Vinegar, Camp, 400. Vinegar, Celery, 401.
Vinegar, Chili, 402. Vinegar, Cider, 401.
Vinegar, Cucumber, 400. Vinegar, Elder flower, 401.
Vinegar, Flavored, 401. Vinegar, a Fleur d' Orange, 551.
Vinegar, Gooseberry, 402. Vinegar, Henry's, 550.
Vinegar, Horseradish, 402. Vinegar, for India
Pickle, 400. Vinegar Infusion of Flowers, 551. Vinegar,
Mint, 550. Vinegar, Nasturtium, 401. Vinegar,
Raspberry, 401, 511. Vinegar, a la Rose, 550. Vinaigre, Rosat,
551. Vinaigres, 551. Vinaigres Scintilliques, 551. Vinegar,
Sugar, 401. Vinegar, Thieves, 550. Vinegar de Toilette,
550. Vinaigre, Virginale, 550. Vinegar, Walnut, 400. Violet
Essence, 539. Violet Powder, 546. Volatile Puree, 863. Vol au Vent, 428, 430.
Vol au Vent of Croquettes, 424. Vol au Vent of Fruit, 481. Vol au Vent
of Green Gooseberries, 481. Vol au Vent of Orange, 481. Vol au
Vent of Peaches, 430. Vol au Vent of Pigeons and
Sweetbreads, 424. Vol au Vent, Rhubarb, 481. Vol au Vent of
Veal, 424 W Wafer Cakes, 4TO. Waffles, Rice, 470. Waffles, Soft,
470. Wagner's Vanilla Ice Cream, 490. Wagner's Lemon Ice
Cream, 490. Wagner's Strawberry Ice Cream, 491. Wainscots, to
clean, 576. Waiting at Table, 101. Walls, Papered, to clean. 578. Walnut
Ketchup, 248. Warming House, 19. Warts, to eradicate, 548. Wash Balls, 544.
Wash colored things, 571. Wassail Bowl, 512. Water Cress, stewed, 388.
Water Ices, 491. Water Gruel, 521. Watermelon Rind, to
preserve, 498. Water, Purity of, 81. Water Supply to
towns, 80. Waterproof Cements, 71. Waterproof Shoes, to make, 578. Wax
Paper, 74. Weak Eyes, for, 564. Wedding Cake, 475. Weights and Measures,
124. Welsh Babbit, 456. What We Eat, 79. White Beans, Haricot, 387.
White Beans, Puree of, 886. White Cream for Puree Sauce,
237. White Cucumber Puree, 237. White Lipsalve, 549. White
Lilac Essence, 587. White Lace Veil, to wash, 574. White Portable
Soup, 160. White Rose, Essence of, 540. White Roux, 228. White
Sauce, 214, 229, 230. White Sauce for Chickens, 229. White
Sauce, new, 236. White Sauce, Soyer's, 232. White
Poultry Sauce, 229, White Silk or Blonde Lace, to wash, 572.
White Soup, 161,168. White Soup, Stock for, 156. White
Stock for Soup, 160. White Thickening, 238. White and Black
Sausages, 327. White Sausages, 325, 827, 840.  White Thickening Sauce, 238. Wild Birds, to
carve, 115. Wild Fowl Sauce, 232. Wine, Blackberry, 514.
Wine, Black Currant, 515. Wine, Cherry, 515.
Wine, Currant, 511. Wine, Elder, 516. :
Wine, Elderflower, 516. Wine, Ginger, 514. Wine,
Gooseberry, 516. Wine, Green Gooseberry, 516. Wine
Jelly, Port, 519. Wine of Mixed Fruits, 515. Wine,
Mulled 522. Wine, to mull, 512. INDEX. Wine Posset, 521.
Wine Punch, 514. Wine, Rhubarb, 515. Wine,
Valencia, 511. Wine, Whey, 520. Winter Green, 541. Winter.Green,
Iceland, 541. Winter Pea Soup, 182. Winter Soup, 168. Winter
Squash, 885. Winter Vegetable Soup, 184. Work, Routine of, 42. Writing,
to take Impressions of, 569. Writing on Glass, 63. Y Yankee Apple
Butter, 506. Yeast Cakes, 465. Yeast Dumplings, 450.
Yeast, to make, 465. Yeast, Milk, 465. Yorkshire
Goose Pie, 422. Yorkshire Pudding, 416, 438. Ypocras, 518. Z Zinc
Ointment, 561. THE END.    {Newspaper
Clipping}
  CHOICE OF FOOD.--First, as regards butcher's meat, attention to the
following simple directions will aid the housewife in deciding upon that all
important point--its freshness. All lean meat, when fresh, shows a deep
purplish-red tinge with a bloom over it on the outside of the muscle, and a
paler vermilion-red with just a shade of purple in the cut surface.
Mutton, lean, should he quite oven in hue, and have no flavor whatever
of tallow; beef, lean, may be a little marbled with.fat,
but it must have no flavor of suet. The surf ace of the meat must
be quite dry, even a cut scarcely wetting the finger, and the substance,
moderately soft, but at the same time so elastic "that no mark is left after a
pressure from the finger. Keeping the meat for a day or two in the
larder should make no difference as regards this, Then; there should be very
little odor in a single joint of meat; it should not waste much in
cooking, ana, when brought to table roasted, should retain its gravy
well, until the knife causes it to gush out in ' a rich, appetizing stream,
full of inviting scent and flavor," This is particularly the case with
mutton, and, for ascertaining its value, is the easiest test we know of.
But, generally, for all meat, a good test is to push a clean knife . up
to the hilt into its substance. In good, fresh meat the resistance is
uniform; but, when some parts are softer than others, we may be quite sure that
putrefaction has set in. The smell of the knife is also a good aid--and this,
By the way, is always useful in choosing a ham; for, by pushing a knife
deep in, withdrawing it, and smelling it, one can tell whether the flavor, is
very salt or the contrary. As regards fat: The raw fat of
beef should be of a slightly yellow color, like fresh butter; that
of mutton should be very white. Lamb and, veal
should , also have, very white and translucent fat, while the
lean of both , should be pale, but perfectly evenly tinted. 
 The various internal parts of an animal are more difficult to choose, and
great care is necessary in seeing that they are perfectly fresh, as they
decompose quicker than the outer parts, and, when decomposed, they are very
unwholesome. Generally speaking, liver, kidneys, etc., may be
safely eaten when in their uncooked condition they show a bright, even color
throughout, and are quite free from marks of congestions or bruises. But a
special word of advice is needed as to the selection of sweetbread,
which is the thymus gland of the calf, for butchers will sometimes send
the pancreas or stomach-bread instead. This may be recognized, however,
even when cooked and chopped up by its large veins and arteries; and, as it is
very inferior in digestibility to the more delicate gland, it is as well to be
quite sure about the real article before buying it. 
 A young and, therefore, tender fowl may be known before plucking by
the largeness of the feet and the leg joints; and, after
plucking, a thin neck and violet thighs may be taken as
invariable signs of age and toughness, especially in turkeys and
fowls. The age of ducks and geese is tested in a different
manner--i.e., by their beaks, the lower part of which breaks away quite easily
when they are young. One of the chief and most objectionable drawbacks to an
old fowl, duck or goose is the rank and disagreeable
savor. Young birds of the gallinaceous tribe may be known by their undeveloped
spurs, and young partridges by the pointed long wing feather
which grown rounded at the tip with age. 
 In the case of fish, many people trust to the sense of smell; but
this is not always to be depended upon, as it may be decieved by the use of
ice. The best test of freshness are the fullness of the eyeballs and the bright
pink hue of the gills when raw, and when cooked, the firmness of the flesh
which, in the case of stale fish, is flabby and stringy, even if
preserved by cold from visible putrefication. The cheapest sorts of fish
are best to buy, for when any kind is cheapest it is sure to be most plentiful,
in fullest season, and therefore most wholesome. Great care is necessary in
purchasing caviare--the roe of the sturgeon--which should always be
obtained straight from a fishmonger, and as fresh as possible. Fresh caviare is
soft, pale in color, and exhibits the ova quite distinctly; but when it is old
and out of season it is black, homogeneous in texture, and is very
indigestible--in fact, none but the very freshest is to be recommended for
digestibility. The preserved sorts are to be avoided, for very often they are
extremely unwholesome--indeed, almost unfit for human consumption.--
 London Queen.