MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK. Breakfast Table, First Course An illustration of a Dining Table set up for Breakfast. Breakfast Table, Second Course An illustration of a Breakfast Table, set up for the Second Course. Breakfast Table, Last Course An illustration of a Breakfast Table, set up for thee Last Course. MRS RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK A MANUAL OF HOUSEKEEPING By SARAH TYSON RORER Author of Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book, Canning and Preserving, Bread and Bread Making, and other valuable works on cookery; Principal of Philadelphia Cooking School. PHILADELPHIA ARNOLD AND COMPANY 420 Sansom Street Copyright 1902 by SARAH TYSON RORER All Rights Reserved Printed by George H. Buchanan and Company at the Sign of the Ivy Leaf in Sansom Street Philadelphia PREFACE AN active teacher and a constant student must in twenty years collect and accumulate a vast amount of knowledge; in fact, too much to be embodied in a single book. I have no apology to offer for the appearance of a new book on Domestic Science, especially this one. It represents on paper The School at its period of highest development, and the results of hard work of the best years of my life. Please read carefully each chapter of instructions preceding the recipes, for herein lies the great value of the work. I have not compiled a recipe book, but have made a complete new book telling the things one needs to know about cooking, living, health, and the easiest and best way of housekeeping. It is a book of general household knowledge. A great change in the methods of living has taken place in America during the last few years. There was a time in the memory of teachers yet quite young when schools of cookery were places where persons were taught to make all sorts of fancy, odd and occasionally used dishes. In fact, to succeed with these elaborate dyspeptic-producing concoctions was the highest ambition. All this has now changed: the teacher or cook book (an ever present teacher) that does not teach health, body building, and economy in time and money, is short lived. There are still a few women who do elaborate cooking to please the palate and appetite, and the general habits of people. They are still in the palate stage of existence. Strive to reach a higher plane of thought--eat to live. Why should any woman be asked to stand for hours over a hot fire mixing compounds to make people ill? Is this cookery? Is the headache that follows a food debauchery more pleasant or pardonable or less injurious than that which follows drink? Results of intemperance are identical. Simple living and high thinking have the approval of learned men and women, but, like all temperance questions, depend so much upon habit, education and palate that progress must be slow; but there is no better stimulant to the enthusiastic worker than slow progression­­the constant but regular improvement. It has been fifteen years since I published my first book; during this time I have seen the art progress from "fancy cookery" to the highest type of Domestic Science. It has found a permanent place in the curriculum of our public schools, where it has been most valuable as a means of mental and moral training as well as useful for the individual in home keeping or obtaining a livelihood, all of which tend to and aid in the development of industries. To fit students for living should be the main object of public education. I believe that every woman should know how to housekeep. Giving up entirely the moral influence of a good meal, I believe that all women should learn to cook as an aid to higher education. Cookery puts into practice chemistry, biology, physiology, arithmetic, and establishes an artistic taste. And if our motto is, "Let us live well, simply, economically, healthfully and artistically," we have embraced all the arts and sciences. .Reproduction of a handwritten signature. Sarah Tyson Rorer CONTENTS PAGE Preface ......................................... 3 Chemistry of Foods .............................. 9 Kitchen Calendar ............................... 17 Proper Seasons for Different Foods ............. 26 Methods of Cooking ............................. 33 Soups .......................................... 47 Thick, Nutritious Soups ........................ 63 Soups with Milk ................................ 67 Soups from White Stock ......................... 77 Chicken Soups .................................. 81 Gumbos of Okra and Filee ....................... 83 Mutton Soups .................................. 85 Fish Soups ..................................... 86 Chowders ....................................... 92 Fish ........................................... 95 Odd Dishes of Fish ............................ 106 Frogs ......................................... 113 Crustaceae .................................... 114 Mollusks ...................................... 123 Meats ......................................... 135 Beef .......................................... 140 Mutton ........................................ 163 Pork .......................................... 181 Poultry ....................................... 186 Game .......................................... 204 Stuffings ..................................... 212 Meat Sauces ................................... 214 Carving ....................................... 231 Serving ....................................... 239 PAGE EGGS .......................................... 247 Milk .......................................... 259 Cream ......................................... 267 Butter ........................................ 268 Cheese ........................................ 271 Vegetables .................................... 277 Starchy Vegetables ............................ 283 Italian Pastes ................................ 300 Starchy Vegetables, also Containing Sugar ..... 311 Succulent Vegetables Containing a Little Starch and Sugar ..................................... 317 Vegetables Containing Nitrogen and Starch ..... 323 Vegetables Containing Nitrogenous Matter with- out Starch or Sugar ........................... 338 Vegetables Containing Sugar, No Starch ........ 349 Green or Succulent Vegetables ................. 361 Salad Plants .................................. 422 A Few Edible Weeds ............................ 424 Plants Used as Seasonings and Flavorings ...... 426 Spices ........................................ 431 Flavorings .................................... 436 Salads ........................................ 439 Dinner Salads ................................. 448 Luncheon, Supper and Reception Salads ......... 457 Fish Salads ................................... 467 Cereal Foods .................................. 474 Bread ......................................... 487 Small Breads .................................. 501 The Second Cooking of Bread ................... 505 Baking Powder Breads .......................... 507 Sour Milk and Soda Breads ..................... 514 Quick Breads with Eggs ........................ 515 Unleaven Breads ............................... 518 Nuts .......................................... 522 PAGE Serving of Fruits ............................. 542 Sub-acid and Dried Fruits ..................... 549 Pastry ........................................ 551 Desserts ...................................... 558 Cold Puddings ................................. 558 Plain Desserts ................................ 568 Simple Hot Puddings, Containing Eggs or Milk .. 571 Desserts, Flavored with Chocolate ............. 581 Desserts without Eggs or Milk ................. 584 Apple Desserts, Few Containing Eggs or Milk ... 588 Frozen Desserts ............................... 600 Pudding Sauces ................................ 607 Cakes ......................................... 613 Fillings ...................................... 626 Candies ....................................... 628 Beverages ..................................... 634 Fruit Punches ................................. 638 Jelly Making and Preserving ................... 640 Jelly Making .................................. 642 Preserving .................................... 644 Canning ....................................... 647 Canning Vegetables ............................ 650 Table Waiting, or How to Train the Waitress ... 653 A Plea for the Little Dinner .................. 664 Serving Dinner without a Maid ................. 667 Jewish Recipes ................................ 670 Spanish Recipes ............................... 680 Creole Recipes ................................ 685 Hawaiian Recipes .............................. 691 CHEMISTRY OF FOOD Of all the changes brought about during the Nineteenth Century, few have had a greater influence for good than the progress made in scientific cookery. A proper understanding of the conditions under which we live is of vital importance and assistance to the housewife and mother. Domestic science, including chemistry of food, is now taught in nearly all the public schools of our large cities. The young child is able to tell not only the chemistry of common foods, but the effect of heat upon them. These girls when they reach womanhood will be able to select and cook foods necessary to sustain and build the body-?they will know the elements of food, the general plan of body building. Let us compare the living machine, the human body, to the railroad engine or locomotive. For both it is necessary to begin by selecting materials for the general structure. When these materials have been worked and fitted together, fuel must be constantly supplied and an abundance of air to make it burn; and in the third place water is required. As a result of this combination, motion, heat and waste are produced. Pure air is of vast importance in body building. The oxygen uniting with the combustible part of the materials produces energy. The approximate principles of the body are resolved into about sixteen elements, each of which must be constantly sustained and nourished. A "perfect" or "complete" food contains all the elements necessary for the building of body. There are in the body five gases: Oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, chlorine and fluorine. The four solids are carbon, sulphur, phosphorus and silica. Seven minerals: Cal-cium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, manganesium and a trace of iron and copper. Oxygen, hydrogen and carbon are found in nearly all the tissues and fluids of the body. Seventy-five per cent of the adult human body is water; the proportion is greater in infants and less in the aged. It is one of the essentials in carrying on the vital processes. It dissolves substances necessary for the nutrition of the body, and carries from it the waste products. It is the medium in which chemical reaction takes place, and which carries the nutrient materials from one place to another. A considerable increase of water in the body, however, is looked upon as unfortunate, while a deficiency, if prolonged, causes a retention and accumulation of waste in the body, resulting in imperfect nutrition, and is one of the chief causes of constipation. Potassium chloride is found in the cells of tissues and in the muscle juices and nerve tissues. Green plants contain more potassium than sodium salts. This is also true of the potato; hence, succulent green vegetables supply to the system one of the necessary elements. We are told that green vegetables have no food value, and, according to the common acceptance of the meaning of these words, we can readily understand that they lack tissue-building elements; but they contain salts, which play a very important part in body building. Magnesium is found with lime in the tissues. No one has ever discovered its particular use, but there it is, a constant ingredient in the muscles and brain. To have a perfect diet, one must select from all the food products, not live on a too concentrated or restricted diet. Nutrition may be said to take place under five conditions: Digestion, absorption, assimilation, destructive metabolism and elimination or excretion. The first begins in the mouth and continues throughout the alimentary canal; it is the process by which food is converted into assimilable compounds. All foods are not immediately assimilated or used; some are stored for future use. For instance, starch is digested and stored in the liver as glycogen . The carbo­hydrates are burned for heat and energy, and the excess stored as fat in the connective tissues. Destructive metabolism is a process that is continually going on in the tissues; a sort of tearing out of the dead cells during the activity of building the new. For example, the waste products cast out of the lungs are products of destructive metabolism. They are no longer required by the system, are, in fact, in the way, and must be thrown aside for new materials. The relations between food, exercise and habits of the individual must be in proper proportion to the food ingested. The works of the body are of two kinds, muscular and nervous, and the internal as well as the external work is done by the stored energy produced by the burning or oxidization of the foods. Persons frequently forget that every time the heart beats, blood is consumed to produce the muscular action. In the energy of living, we use blood produced from the food we eat. Alimentary principles may be divided into three classes: The albuminoids, nitrogenous foods or proteids; three words meaning the same, and comprising lean meats, fish, mollusks ( oysters and clams ), the crustaceae ( lobsters, crabs, shrimps), cheese, casein in milk, legumin found in the leguminous seeds, as old peas, beans and lentils, nitrogenous matter in nuts and the gluten of grains. The second division, non-nitrogenous or carbonaceous foods, consists of fats and the carbo-hydrates, the sugars, starches and mucilage, inulin and pectose, found in sea weeds and certain vegetables. The third group consists of inorganic foods, water and mineral salts. Eggs and milk are typical or perfect foods; that is, they contain within themselves all the elements necessary for the development of the young of their especial kind. The egg is a perfect food for the development of the chick, and milk for the young mammal; neither of these are, however, perfect foods for the human adult. When added to our daily bills of fare they are placed in the nitrogenous or albuminous group, and served with such foods as white bread and butter. Cows ' milk, a typical food for the calf, is by no means a typical food for the human being. Nor would human milk supply the requirements of the calf. The calf gets its growth in from four to five years; from infancy to manhood is three times that long. One can see at a glance that such food would quite upset the delicate digestive apparatus of an infant. When we go contrary to the laws of nature, sickness and suffering are the results. Cows ' milk does not agree with the average infant; it was never meant to agree and has no right to agree. In vegetable foods the carbo-hydrates predominate and must therefore be mixed with nitrogenous substances, in order to form a perfect diet. Many vegetables are rich in nitrogen, others in starch. In arranging our daily bills of fare these must be blended. A perfect diet consists of common food materials blended to suit the age, sex, occupation and climate in which the individual lives. They must not only be well proportioned, but well selected and taken in proper quantities, or they are worse than waste, as their presence clogs the delicate digestive organs, throwing them out of order. There is more danger from over-eating than from under-eating. When persons reach middle life or a little beyond there is less vigor, hence, less necessity for a large quantity of food. People who disobey this rule either accumulate fat and become unwieldy, or wear out the secretory organs, and have such diseases as gout, rheumatism, Bright's disease, and many kindred complaints. Rich and highly-seasoned dishes please the palate and induce the thoughtless to take greater quantities of food than can be assimilated; too much meat, too many starchy foods and sweets with too few green vegetables and fruits produce torpid or over-worked livers. Men as a class eat too much meat, and are prone to kidney and liver troubles; women eat too much starch mixed with sugar and cooked butter, as in cakes, preserves and puddings, and are prone to corpulency and constipation. The total amount of food required each twenty-four hours varies, of course, with the occupation and condition of the individual. The average adult in exercise requires as a day's ration about six pounds; of this amount about three and a half pounds will be water, much of which is found in the common foods and taken in beverages. Of the remaining part, one-fourth will be nitrogenous matter; three-fourths carbonaceous, with about two hundred grains of mineral matter. This is not the amount consumed by the average American, but the amount he should consume. Animal foods, being richer in albuminoids or nitrogenous constituents, must be taken in small quantities. By mixing a small amount of lean beef with bread or potato we get a food palatable, attractive and containing the necessary requirements. A mixture of beans and potatoes will contain rather more of the tissue-building elements. It would require two pounds of ordinary bread to supply the nitrogen in twelve ounces of meat. Three meals a day might be arranged from a table of ingredients containing the proper proportions of all the elements: Bread. ......................................... 12 oz. Butter. ......................................... 3 " Milk. ........................................... 4 " Potato. ......................................... 6 " Rice. ........................................... 4 " Cabbage. ........................................ 6 " Cheese.......................................... 4 " Sugar. .......................................... 1 " Water alone, including that in tea and coffee.. 55 " A second illustration will give another example of the same idea: Beef, weighed raw.............................. 12 oz. Whole wheat bread. ............................. 23 " Butter. ......................................... 3 " Potato. ........................................ 10 " Water. ......................................... 55 " Each one of these articles may be replaced by another of the same class. For instance, old beans are nitrogenous or muscle-making foods and may be substituted for beef; cheese, the casein of milk, may be substituted for either beef or beans; rice, macaroni, white bread, boiled chestnuts, white or sweet potato es, are each interchangeable one with the other, at different meals. Olive oil, cream, oleaginous nuts and butter are also interchangeable. When green or succulent vegetables or fruits are used, less water is required. It is wise to serve fruits with cereals or breads, vegetables with meats, cream with starchy puddings, olive oil with green vegetables. Digestion is more easily performed with correct combinations. Starch does not occur in animal foods, but nitrogen is found abundantly in many vegetables. Nitrogenous foods are, as a rule, more easily digested uncooked. All starchy foods must be well and thoroughly cooked. In old peas, beans and lentils the starch is so incorporated with legumin, the nitrogenous principle, that the cooking must be long and slowly done in order to soften the envelope or wall of the starch granules, otherwise fermentation or flatulency will result. The first object of cooking is to assist digestion. Careful, simple cooking only can do this; for instance, baked or boiled potatoes are easily digested; when fried the starch granules are covered with a coating of fat which prevents digestive secretions from acting on them; frying renders them difficult of digestion. A large quantity of fried foods may be eaten without nourishing the body; and of one thing we are quite sure, they always tax the digestive organs. Many foods are chemically changed in the process of digestion. Starch is not found in the blood as starch, but is changed by enzymes (unorganized ferments) in the digestive secretions, into sugar. The ptyalin of the saliva, the pepsin and rennin of the stomach, the trypsin, amylopsin, and steapsin of the intestinal secretions are enzymes. The enzyme ptyalin in the saliva (an alkaline medium) acts upon the starch precisely the same as diastase, which is found in the common malt extracts. If our foods are well cooked and thoroughly masticated we assist in the digestion of the starches and save the cost of "aids to digestion." Digestion is natural; indigestion, the artificial digestion, unnatural. The secretions of the stomach are slightly acid and have no effect upon starches. The starches are separated in the stomach from other substances and passed on into the second stomach, the duodenum, the upper part of the small intestine, where again, in the presence of alkaline secretions, they meet the enzyme amylopsin, which continues and completes the digestion begun in the mouth. The nitrogenous foods are torn apart by mastication; they enter the stomach (an acid medium), and in the presence of the enzyme pepsin are partly or wholly digested, as the conditions may be; if the digestion is not finished, they pass into the duodenum where in the presence of an alkaline medium, digestion is continued by the enzyme trypsin. The oils are emulsionized in the small intestine in an alkaline medium, by enzyme steapsin and the bile. Defective teeth and hasty mastication are frequently the primary causes of indigestion. Soft foods are to be especially condemned; mushes, for instance, should be masticated, other-wise they pass into the small intestine in an unprepared condition. Starches are burned in the body to produce heat and energy; they also produce fat. If taken in excess of that needed for immediate use, are stored as fat in the connective tissue. Fats and oils are burned in the body to produce heat and energy. Too much starch and sugar increase the weight of the body and crowd the liver. The albuminoids build the muscular lean flesh and tissues. Mineral matter aids in the formation of the teeth and bones. The cereals are rich in these salts, hence, are admirable foods for the young, not infants, but for children sufficiently old to have teeth for mastication, and for nursing mothers. DIET TABLE This table shows the quantity of nitrogenous and carbona-ceous elements in one hundred parts of some of our common foods and will assist in arranging a well balanced dietary.   Nitrogen. Carbon. Lean beef. .................................... 3.00 11.00 Common roasted beef. .......................... 3.528 17.76 Calf 's liver. ................................. 3.093 15.68 Calf 's heart. ................................. 2.031 16.00 White fish. ................................... 2.41 9.00 Salmon. ....................................... 2.09 16.00 Eels. ......................................... 2.00 30.05 Eggs.. ........................................ 1.90 l3.50 Milk ( cow's ).................................. .66 8.00   Nitrogen. Carbon. Oysters. ...................................... 2.13 7.18 Lobster. ...................................... 2.93 10.96 Cheese (ripe old)............................. 4.126 41.04 Cheese (Cream)................................ 2.920 71.10 Cheese (Neufchatel)........................... 1.27 50.71 Beans (fresh full-grown Limas)................ 4.50 42.00 Beans (old dried)............................. 4.15 48.50 Peas (dried).................................. 3.66 44.00 Peas (split).................................. 3.91 46.00 Lentils. ...................................... 3.87 43.00 Hard wheat. ................................... 3.00 41.00 Soft wheat. ................................... 1.8l 39.00 Flour, white.. ................................ 1.64 38.50 Oatmeal. ...................................... 1.95 44.00 Rye flour. .................................... 1.75 41.00 Rice. ......................................... 1.80 41.00 Potatoes...................................... .33 11.00 Barley. ....................................... 1.90 40.00 Indian corn. .................................. 1.70 44.00 Bread (common home-made)...................... 1.20 30.00 Carrots. ...................................... .31 5.50 Fish (dried).................................. .92 34.00 Nuts (English walnuts)........................ 1.40 20.65 Almonds. ...................................... 2.67 40.00 Butter. ....................................... .64 83.00 Olive oil. ............................... Traces only. 98.00 KITCHEN CALENDAR The inexperienced housewife finds more or less difficulty in determining the exact time required for cooking the various vegetables and meats so that they may all be done for the same meal at the same time. Thermometers for ovens have not, until recently, been in general use. Now one can have the so-called "thermometer," really an indicator, put into the oven door of any modern range, either gas, coal or wood, and at a very small cost; thus relieving the cook from the necessity of standing and watching and making unsatisfactory attempts to ascertain the true heat of the oven. One cannot always tell what is meant by a moderate, moderately cool or quick oven, unless one has had long experience, and even then there is a lack of exactness and an unusual amount of worry. In this calendar, we refer only to Fahrenheit. A potato will bake in three-quarters of an hour at a temperature of 300° Fahr.; it will harden on the outside and almost burn at a temperature of 400° in twenty minutes, and if the oven is only 220° it will take one hour and a quarter to a half. In boiling meats always use boiling water and after the first five minutes of rapid boiling reduce the temperature to 180°, and cook twenty minutes to each pound. The meat must always be covered with water. In making stews where the meat is cut into small pieces, it is better to heat it at first in a little fat, then make the sauce and allow the meat to cook for two hours at a temperature of 180°. An eight pound turkey with stuffing should go into an oven at 400° for a half hour to seal the outside, and then bake at 280° for two hours longer. Without stuffing, the oven must be 400° for a half hour and then dropped to 280° for an hour and a half. A four pound chicken with stuffing will bake at 400° for a half hour; and then one and a half hours at 280°; the same sized chicken not stuffed, a half hour at 400°, then one hour at 280°. A tame duck stuffed with potatoes placed in an oven at 360° requires one hour to brown and one hour at 230 to finish. A goose must be cooked according to its age, and it is very difficult to select a young goose unless one is experienced. See directions for selecting geese. If they are stuffed with potatoes, cook in an oven at 400° for thirty minutes; then for two hours at 230°, basting frequently. SCHEDULE FOR FISH AND GAME Fish take on their weight in length rather than bulk, which gives a specific time independent of weight. Brown quickly for a half hour, then cook at 300° for a second half hour. Planked fish under the gas or before a wood fire will require thirty minutes, and in a coal, wood or oil oven forty-five minutes. Oysters are done when the gills are thoroughly curled. Game such as woodcock, snipe and pheasants, must be roasted or baked continuously for thirty minutes at 400°. Partridge, split down the back, thirty minutes at 400°. Prairie chicken forty-five minutes at 400°. A haunch of venison will cook in a quick oven at 400° about thirty minutes, then bake slowly for two hours at 300°, basting frequently. To test run a skewer in the fleshy part and if the blood follows upon drawing the skewer out and the meat at the same time is tender and rare, it is done. All red meats should be served rare; all white meats well done. All meats should be easily done before being seasoned with salt, as the salt draws out the juices and toughens the fibre, making even good meat dry and unpalatable. GENERAL BAKING IN COAL OR WOOD STOVE All meats must go into a very hot oven (400°). After they have been thoroughly seared on the outside cool down the oven to 260°, when the fat will begin to melt. Baste with this fat every fifteen minutes. Do not use water. Bread in small French loaves will be baked continuously at 360° for 30 minutes; square loaves at 300° for ten minutes and for fifty minutes at 260°. Pastry, such as patties and tarts, for twenty minutes at 360°. Muffins, gems, sally lunns and other light breads twenty minutes at 360°. Corn bread in shallow pans forty-five minutes at 360°. Pies with upper crust thirty minutes at 360°; with under crust thirty minutes at 340°. Apples, cored, in a slow oven at 260°, so that they may become soft without hardening the skin. Cakes without butter require a hot oven 300° to 360°. Four-egg sponge cake, twenty minutes; six-egg sponge cake thirty minutes; ten-egg sponge cake, forty-five minutes. Angel food and sunshine cake, baked in pans made for the purpose, require a cool oven, 230°, which is gradually increased during the first half hour to 260°, baking in all three-quarters of an hour. If the cake is not brown at the end of this time increase the heat for just a moment until it assumes the proper color. Cakes containing butter, such as pound cake, cup cake and fruit cake, must be baked in a very slow oven. Fruit cake may be steamed for three hours and finished in an oven at a temperature of 240°, or it may be put into an oven at 220° for three hours and finished at 260° for one hour. For gas baking allow twenty degrees less than the above. The time required for cooking green vegetables: Green peas, young and fresh.......................... 15 minutes Green peas, old and not fresh........................ 30 " String beans......................................... 45 " Beans, shelled (green)............................... 45 " Lima beans, young, fresh............................. 30 " Lima beans, dried (soaked)........................... 45 " Cabbage, whole head, simmer.......................... 2 hours Cabbage, half head................................... 1 hour Cabbage, quarter head................................ 30 minutes Cabbage, chopped..................................... 20 minutes Cauliflower and Broccoli............................. 30 " Cucumbers, cut into quarters......................... 30 " Squash, pared and cut into blocks.................... 20 " Pumpkin, in squares for pies......................... 30 " Tomatoes, peeled and stewed.......................... 30 " Tomatoes, baked, whole, slow oven.................... 1 hour Tomatoes, stuffed and baked.......................... 1 " Green peppers, stuffed............................... 1 " Green peppers, stewed................................ 30 minutes Onions, new.......................................... 45 " Spanish onions, whole................................ 2 hours Spanish onions, cut into slices...................... 1 hour Okra................................................. 1 " Celery, stewed....................................... 30 minutes Spinach.............................................. 10 " Brussels sprouts, fresh.............................. 30 " Kale................................................. 45 " Bananas, baked (240°)............................ 30 " Apples, sweet, baked (slow).......................... 30 " Apples, sour, baked (slow)........................... 20 " All underground vegetables are as a rule rich in woody fibre; use boiling, unsalted water to start, adding salt when they are partly cooked. Rule for cooking dry and underground vegetables. Potatoes, to boil until they can be easily pierced to the center with a fork................................... 30 minutes Potatoes, to bake, slowly............................ 45 " Potatoes, cut into dice to cream..................... 10 " Rice, Carolina....................................... 30 " Rice, Patna.......................................... 20 minutes Beans, soup, dried, soaked over night, slowly........ 2 hours Beans, if for baking, until skin cracks.............. 30 minutes Peas, dried, soaked over night....................... 2 hours Lentils, dried, soaked over night.................... 1 hour Sweet potatoes, medium size, to boil................. 40 minutes Sweet potatoes, medium size, to bake............ 45 to 50 " Turnips, white, cut into blocks, to stew............. 20 " Turnips, yellow, cut into blocks, to stew............ 30 " Carrots, cut into dice, to stew...................... 1 hour Parsnips, cut into halves............................ 1 " Beets, new........................................... 45 minutes Beets, old........................................... 4 hours Salsify, boiled...................................... 45 minutes Globe artichokes..................................... 45 " Jerusalem artichokes, sliced......................... 30 " Jerusalem artichokes, whole.......................... 45 " Asparagus............................................ 45 " Polk shorts.......................................... 45 " Green sweet corn, after it begins to boil............ 5 " TO MEASURE A half pint measuring cup, tin or glass, can be purchased at any house-furnishing store for ten cents, and is the standard measure for all recipes. These measures are level. A "cup" = 1/2 pint 1 gill (1/4 pint) = 1/2 cup 1 pint of brown sugar = 13 ounces 2 cups (or 1 pint) of granulated sugar = 1 pound 2 1/4 cups of powdered sugar = 1 " 4 cups of sifted flour = 1 " 1 pint of water = 1 " 1 pint of solid fat = 1 " 1 pint of solid chopped cooked meat = 1 " 1 pint of wheat = 1 " 1 ounce 1 pint of Indian meal = 1 " 10 eggs, medium sized, = 1 " A common tumbler holds about 1/2 pint A common-sized wineglass, 4 tablespoonfuls = 1/2 gill A dash of pepper = 1/2 saltspoonful ROUNDING MEASURES To save confusion in weights and to be uniform with English and French methods, measure all tablespoonfuls and teaspoonfuls rounding, as much above the spoon as the bowl below. In all these recipes a tablespoonful or teaspoonful means a rounding measure, unless otherwise stated. 1 rounding tablespoonful of flour = 1/2 ounce 1 rounding tablespoonful of sugar = 1 " 1 rounding tablespoonful of butter = 1 " 1 tablespoonful of ordinary liquids = 1/2 " 1 saltspoonful = 1/4 teaspoonful 1 teaspoonful = 1/4 tablespoonful 2 teaspoonfuls = 1 dessertspoonful 4 teaspoonfuls = 1 tablespoonful 1 dessertspoonful = 1 /2 " 2 dessertspoonfuls = 1 " 45 drops of water = 1 teaspoonful 1 teaspoonful = 1 fluid dram 16 oz. avoirdupois, or commercial weight = 1 pound A hundredweight = 112 pounds 31 1/2 gallons, liquid measure = 1 barrel 2 barrels = 1 hogshead 1 barrel of potatoes about 150 pounds 1 barrel of flour = 196 pounds 1 barrel of sugar about 350 pounds THERMOMETER SCALES Fahrenheit?Freezing point = 32° of the scale " Boiling point = 212° " " Centigrade?Freezing point = 0° " " " Boiling point = 100° " " A degree of Centigrade is greater than a degree of Fahrenheit as nine is greater than five. To reduce Fahrenheit to Centigrade subtract 32 from the given number in Fahrenheit, muliply the result by 5 and divide this by 9. To change Centigrade to Fahrenheit multiply the degrees of Centigrade by 9, divide the result by 5, then add 32. Boiling point of water at sea level, Fahrenheit, 212°; Centigrade 100°. DIGESTIBILITY OF FOODS ARTICLES OF DIET. HOW COOKED. TIME OF CHYMIFICATION. H.M. Pigs'Feet (soused)............. Boiled 1 00 Sweetbreads.................... Stewed or Broiled 1 00 Tripe.......................... Boiled 1 00 Rice........................... Boiled?plain 1 00 Eggs........................... Raw 2 00 Eggs (whipped)................. Raw 1 30 Eggs........................... Soft Boiled 1 30 Rice........................... Boiled with milk 1 30 Salmon Trout................... Boiled 1 30 Venison Steak.................. Broiled 1 30 Brains......................... Boiled 1 45 Ox Liver....................... Broiled 2 00 Cod fish (cured dry)........... Boiled 2 15 Eggs........................... Roasted 2 15 Turkey......................... Boiled 2 25 Gelatin........................ Boiled 2 30 Goose.......................... Roasted 2 30 Pig (sucking).................. Roasted 2 30 Lamb........................... Broiled 2 30 Cabbage........................ Raw 2 30 Chicken........................ Fricasseed 2 45 Beef........................... Boiled 2 45 Beef........................... Roasted 3 00 Bacon.......................... Broiled 3 00 Mutton......................... Boiled 3 00 Corn Bread..................... Baked 3 15 Mutton......................... Roasted 3 15 Sausage........................ Broiled 3 20 Oysters........................ Stewed 3 20 Irish Potatoes................. Boiled 3 30 Cheese......................... Raw 3 30 Turnips........................ Boiled 3 30 Eggs........................... Hard Boiled 3 30 Eggs........................... Fried 3 30 Beets.......................... Boiled 3 45 Fowls.......................... Boiled 3 45 Salmon (salted)................ Broiled 4 00 Beef........................... Fried 4 00 Fowls ......................... Roasted 4 00 Ducks.......................... Roasted 4 00 Veal........................... Boiled 4 00 Vartilage...................... Boiled 4 15 Ceal........................... Roasted 4 30 Cabbage........................ Boiled 4 30 Pork........................... Roasted 5 15 Tendon......................... Boiled 5 30 NAMES OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES IN VARIOUS LANGUAGES ENGLISH FRENCH GERMAN SPANISH Almond Amandier Mandel Almendra Apple Pomme Apfel Manzana Apricot Abricote Aprikose Albarieoque Artichoke Artichaut Artischöke Cinauco Asparagus Asperge Spaigel Esparrago Banana Banane Pisang (Guineo) Bean, Broad Fève de Marais Grosse Bohne, Garten Bohne Haba Bean, Kidney Haricot Türkische Bohne Judias and Fasoles Beet Betterave Rothe Rübe Betarraga Berberry épine vinette Berberitzen Berberis Black Currant Cassis and Groseille noir Schwarze Johan-nisbeere Grosella negro Borecole Chou vert, or Non pommé Grüner Kohl Col Broccoli Broccoli and Chou brocoli Italienischer Kohl Broculi Brussels Sprouts Chou de Bruxelles or à jets Sprossen Kohl   Cabbage Chou pommé or Cabus Kopfkohl Berza Cardoon Cardon Kardon Cardo Carrot Carotte Möhre or Gelbe Rübe Chirivia Cauliflower Chou-fleur Blumen Kohl Berza florida Celery Céleri Sellerie Appio hortense Cherry Cerise Kirsche Cerezo Chicory or Succory Chicorée Sauvage Gemeine Cichorie Achieoria Cress, Garden Cresson Gemeine Garten Kresse Mastuerzo Cress, Water Cresson de Fontaine Brunnen Kresse Berro Cress, Winter Cresson de Terre Winter Kresse Hierba de Santa Barbbara Cucumber Concombre Gurke Pepino or Cohombro Eggplant Melongène Aubergine Tollapfel and Eierpflanze Berengena Endive Chicorée des Jardins, Endive Endivie Endivia Fig Figue Feige Higuera Filbert Noisette Haselnuss Avellano Garlic Ail Knoblauch Ajo Gooseberry Groseille Stachelbeere Uva-Crespas Grape Vigne Traube and Weintrauben Vina Horseradish Cranson or le Grand Raifort Meerrettig Rabano Picante Kohlrabi or Turnip Cabbage Chou-rave Kohl Rabi   Leek Poireau Gemeiner Lauch or Porro Zwiebel Puerro Lemon Limon Citrone Limon Lettuce Laitue Gartensalat and Lattich Lechuga Melon, Musk Melon Melone Melon Mint, Common Menthe des Jardins Münze Menta Mulberry Mùre Maulbeere Moral Mushroom Champignon comestible Essbare Blätter Schwämme Seta Mustard Moutarde Senf Mostaza Nectarine Pêche lisse Nectarpfirsich Especie de Durazno Olive Olive Olive Olivo ENGLISH FRENCH GERMAN SPANISH Onion Oignon Zwiebel Cebolla Orange Oranger Pomeranze Naranja Orach Arroche Meldekraut Armuelle Parsley Persil Petersilie Perejil Parsnip Panais Pastinake Chirivia and Pastinaca Pea Pois Erbse Guisante Peach Pêche Pflrsiche Alberchigo Pear Poire Birne Pera Pepper, Red or Chile Piment Spanischer Pfeffer Pimiento Pineapple Ananas Ananas Pina Plum Prune Pflaume Ciruelo Pomegranate Grenade Granate Granada Potato Pomme de Terre Kartoffel Batatas Inglezas Pumpkin or Gourd Courge Kürbis Calabaza Quince Coignassier Quitte Membrillo Radish Radis and Rave Rettig and Radies Rabano Rape Navette Repskohl Naba silvestre Red Currant Groseille rouge Gemeine Johannisbeere Grosella Rhubarb Rhubarbe Rhabarber Ruibarbo Sage Sauge Salbei Salvia Salsify Salsifls Haferwurzel and Bocksbart Barba Cabruna Savoy Chou de Milan or pommé fraisé Wirsing or Herzkohl Berza de Saboya Sea-kale Chou Marin and Crambé Meerkohl Col marina Spinach épinard Spinat Espinaca Strawberry Fraise Erdbeere Fresa Sweet Chestnut Marron Castanie Castano Thyme Thym Thimian Tomillo Tomato Tomate Liebesapfel Tomate Turnip Navet Rübe Nabo Walnut Noyer Wallnuss Noguera White Currant Groseille blanche Gemeine Johannisbeere Grosella Watermelon Melon d'Eau Wassermelone Sandia PROPER SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT FOODS It is impossible to give the exact seasons for fruits in different parts of the United States, but a general idea will be helpful. Preserve all fruits when at their height; they are then in season. This rule will apply also to canning or jelly making. In the South, of course, the time will be earlier than in the far North. It is a well-known fact that green fruits contain a goodly amount of pectose, which by the action of natural ferments in the fruit is changed to pectin. This pectin exists in a ready formed condition in Irish moss, and is found in fruits just ripe. In a day this is again changed, hence over-ripe fruits will not make firm jelly. See jelly making. Tomatoes should be canned during August; after that time they lose their solidity and become watery, also their sweetness of flavor and become more acid. MEATS Beef and mutton are used the year round, but are really in best condition and in season during the winter months. Veal and lamb are in season during the spring months, from the first of April to the first of June. They are used before and after this time, but are not plentiful. "Spring" chickens appear about the first of May. With the present incubator method of raising chickens, and the "house" fashion of raising lambs, we have both at an earlier season, but they are high in price, and do not give a corresponding amount of nourishment. Capons, from December until April. Turkeys from September until March. Geese and ducks, sold under the name of "green geese" and ducklings," from the first of June to the first of September; old ducks and geese from the first of December to the first of April. Guinea fowls are best from the first of June to the first of October, although they appear in the markets the year around. Game is in season during the fall and winter; the season begins about the first of November and closes February first. Woodcock are in the market from the first of August to January. They are best after the first of October. Cold storage game is exposed for sale at all seasons, but is undesirable food. Reed birds or rice birds are in season along the Middle Eastern coast from the latter part of August and September to October. These are the reed birds of the North and the rice birds of the South. Rabbits and hares are in season from November first to February first; in many places they are in market the year round; they are not good, however, when out of season. Venison is good from September first to January first. Wild duck, partridges and geese from September first to April first; the choicest of these are the canvas back, red head, mallard, teal and widgeon. FISH JANUARY Cod, haddock, lake halibut, chicken halibut, striped bass, eels, Columbia River salmon, smelts, red snapper, Nova Scotia herring, pickerel, catfish, terrapin, green turtle, scallops, oysters, white bait. You will find exposed for sale long lists of fish not included here. They are not in season, however; but are preserved in some fashion, either in cold storage, or by freezing, and are not wholesome food. We have now coming from the South prawns, fresh mackerel and shad. FEBRUARY Cod-fish, haddock, halibut, striped bass, eels, Columbia River salmon, frost fish, Spanish mackerel, sheep's-head, red snapper and smelts still coming from Maine and Massachusetts and the inferior frozen ones from Canada. During the latter part of this month we have our choicest smelts from Long Island. Southern shad are now more plentiful; salmon, trout, and white fish are good. Terrapin green turtle, scallops and oysters are in fine condition. Soft shell crabs are beginning to come, also a little fresh crab meat from the Southern waters. MARCH Cod-fish haddock, halibut, striped bass, chicken halibut, eels, Columbia River salmon, flounders Spanish mackerel pompano, sheep's-head, red snapper and shad are quite abundant from North Carolina and are beginning to come a little farther north. Salmon trout, white fish, yellow perch and pickerel are also coming in small quantities; terrapin, green turtle, oysters and scallops are still in season. During the latter part of the month we have salmon coming from the Kennebec and other rivers of Maine, and they remain in good condition all through April. APRIL We have about the same list, adding now good shad, from the Susquehanna, Delaware and Hudson Rivers, and fresh mackerel also make their appearance at this season. Sheep's-head are still coming from North Carolina as well as king fish; smelts go out of season, that is they lose their sweetness; red snapper is in its best condition the middle of this month. Sea bass are coming from the North, and blue fish make their appearance in southern waters about the middle of the month. The season for brook trout opens April first. Salmon trout, white fish, green turtle, lobster, prawns, hard shell crabs, and crawfish are found in good condition. Scallops leave us at the the end of this month as well as oyster. We have in their place clams. the latter part of this month frogs' legs are in good condition and plentiful. MAY Lobsters, crabs, prawns and shrimps are now in good condition; oysters and scallops have gone, clams of different varieties taking their place. Oregon salmon continues during the entire month. Flounders are at their best. Fresh mackerel, Spanish mackerel and pompano come in refrigerator cars and are in good condition. Butterfish and weak fish are plentiful and cheap. King fish appear and are good until October. Sheep's-head, porgies and sea bass are abundant. Shad now comes from the Connecticut waters and is of very superior flavor but is passing out of season, the flesh becoming soft and unpalatable. Brook trout are at their best, and we still have eels and striped bass, cod, halibut, chicken halibut and haddock, green turtle, and frog's legs. JUNE Cod-fish has just gone out of season, the flesh is soft and not at its best; cod is truly a winter fish. This may also be said of haddock, halibut and chicken halibut. We have striped bass, eels, lobsters and fresh salmon from the rivers of Maine and Canada, which is cheapest during this season of the year. Black bass, fresh mackerel, pompano, Spanish mackerel, weak fish, butter fish, king fish, sheep's-head, sea bass, sturgeon and porgies, the latter being cheap and perhaps undesirable. A few shad are exposed for sale, but they are unpalatable. Blue fish, however, are getting larger and are much better than during the previous month. This also applies to black bass. It may be remembered that striped bass in some markets are called rock fish, and are salt water fish; while black bass are fresh water fish. Crabs, lobsters, clams, frogs' legs and crawfish are still in season. JULY Eels, lobsters (from Maine and Canada), pompano, flounders, black bass, Spanish mackerel, butter fish, weak fish, sheep's-head, porgies, sea bass, blue fish, moon-fish, brook trout, green turtle, crawfish, shrimps, frogs' legs and soft crabs are still in season. This list will also answer for August. SEPTEMBER Cod-fish, haddock, halibut are coming, and are in better condition than during the previous month, but they are not first-class until October. Rock or striped bass, lobsters eels salmons now come from Nova Scotia, and the price is; steadily advancing and becomes very high until the last of the month, when the East coast salmon go out of season. Flounders, black fish, fresh mackerel, Spanish mackerel, the latter being in their best condition during this month, pompano, butter fish, weak fish, porgies and a few smelts are exposed for sale, but is not at its best until October. The grunter a fish similar to the red snapper is also in season. Sea ha s and blue fish, salmon trout, white fish, cod-fish and porgies green turtle, crawfish, frogs' legs, lobsters, hard crabs and soft crabs are high in price, and are, perhaps, in their best condition. Moon-fish, butter fish and oysters are exposed for sale, but are not fine. Clams, hard and soft, and soft crabs are now coming from the East coast, north of New York. OCTOBER Cod-fish during the latter part of the month are in better condition; striped bass or rock fish, lobsters, black fish, Columbia River salmon are here, but are not as fine as those caught on the Maine coast, which come earlier in the season. Flounders, fresh mackerel, Spanish mackerel, pompano, weak fish, king fish, sheep's-head, grunter, red. snapper, white perch, sea bass, black bass, blue fish, salmon trout, white fish, yellow perch, pickerel, masquallonge, green turtle, carp, oysters, clams, hard and soft crabs, crawfish and prawns. Hard and soft crabs are now passing out of the market. White bait and scallops are beginning to make their appearance, but are not in as good condition as they are in November. Oysters are getting better. NOVEMBER Cod is now in fine flavor. Haddock, halibut, rock or striped bass salmon, trout, fresh mackerel, grunter, perch, red snapper, perch, pickerel, masquallonge and blue fish are in good condition up until about the middle of the month, and those exposed for sale during the winter months are preserved by freezing. Masquallonge, cod-fish, green turtle, terrapin, red snapper are fairly good. Oysters are better: frogs' legs, hard crabs, craw-fish and prawns are rather going out of season. DECEMBER During this month oysters are in fine condition, also scallops smelts, while lobster and crustaceæ in general are in poor soft condition. Oysters and scallops come in as the lobsters go out flounders, terrapin, halibut, cod-fish are now at their best. Rock or striped bass, Columbia River salmon, frost fish, torn cods cusk, black fish, red snapper, black bass, pickerel, masquallonge green turtle, and shad from the St. John River, Florida, are exposed for sale in the markets; they have been transported, of course, in refrigerator cars; they are not fine in flavor and are quite high in price. VEGETABLES Our rapid transportation makes it almost impossible to give exact time when vegetables are in season. Our country being large, the climate so very different in different parts, vegetables, like fruit, are in season the whole year. Celery in New York, Philadelphia and Boston is truly in season during the winter; from the South, as early as July 1st. Lettuce can be had all the year round; in the winter it is grown in hot houses, or comes from the far South; while in summer we have a home production, which is less desirable than that grown in winter. Mushrooms are grown in cellars or fields, and can be purchased at any season. We have a number of vegetables that can be grown in any garden during the summer and put aside to keep for winter use. It is well to remember that appetites are destroyed by too much sameness. Use vegetables in season in the locality in which you live. Such vegetables as carrots, turnips, parsnips, beets, cabbage, onions, celery, salsity, leeks, endive and potatoes are easily kept for winter use. This relieves you of the necessity of canning vegetables. Tarragon, parsley and herbs may be dried just before the flowering-season. Green peppers and okra are also easily dried. The winter vegetables are greater in number than the summer ones, hence it not necessary to can and preserve such foods, unless one lives on a narrow diet. Winter vegetables are sweet and white potatoes, artichokes, celery, endive, cabbage,onions, leeks, chicory, yellow and white turnips, kale, winter squash, pumpkins, mushrooms, old peas, beans, lentils, old beets, salsify, carrots and parsnips. Spring.-All the above with spinach, scullions, dandelions, asparagus, poke, corn, salad and early lettuce added. Summer-Peas, string-beans, summer squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, sweet corn, new potatoes, lima beans, new beets, lettuce, fresh sweet peppers, mushrooms, summer cabbage, egg plant, okra, Brussels sprouts and onions. Autumn or Fall.?Potatoes, sweet and white; celery, cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, lima beans, corn, Brussels sprouts, kidney beans, onions, cos or Romaine, new white turnips and new carrots. METHODS OF COOKING Primitive man, no doubt, could easily masticate and digest his raw wheat, but in the present generation under existing circumstances this is entirely out of the question. Heat does not always, alter the chemical constituents of food, but when properly applied, practically aids digestion. Such changes may not be detected by chemical analysis, and yet be perceptible to the digestive apparatus. Heat coagulates and hardens albumin. Thus we say meats are rendered less digestible by cooking. Cooking is necessary, however, to remove the danger of poisonous germs. The woody fibre of vegetables is softened by moist, slow cooking, the starch cells are ruptured, and the whole is made more easy of digestion. A slow, moist heat softens the fibre of meat; an intense heat hardens and toughens it. Meat slowly cooked at a temperature of 180° Fahr. becomes tender, juicy and easily digested; when boiled at a gallop the connective dissolves, the meat falls from the bones and into strings, but the fibre is not tender. Such boiled meat is leathery and difficult of digestion. The cooking of meat also enables it to be more readily masticated. In the raw state it is rather tough and can be torn apart only with great difficulty. One can easily observe this by the method in which the lion pulls the flesh from the bones while he is eating. Albumin exists in the juices of meat as well as in the blood, and unless the outside of each piece is coagulated ("sealed") at once, much nourishment is lost, but a continued high temperature is a disadvantage. The results of cooking depend much more upon the skill of the cook than the amount of money spent for material. A piece of so-called inferior meat in the hands of an educated cook will he sent to the table palatable, sightly and nutritious. But the finest roasts our markets afford are dry, tasteless and valueless when badly cooked. The most experienced chemist with all his modern apparatus cannot demonstrate the causes and sources of flavors. Practical taste and experience alone create and detect flavors--the cook holds the secret. The pleasure of eating, digestion and health depend upon the knowledge of the cook. Good, wholesome and nutritious food is always attractive, palatable and pleasure giving. Heat is applied to animal and all vegetable foods, either by boiling steaming and braising-?moist heats; broiling or grilling and roasting-?dry heat in an abundance of air; baking?-dry heat, as in an oven; frying?-immersing in hot fat; and sautéing?-cooking in a little fat. THE STOVES AND FUEL WITH WHICH WE COOK Combustion or burning means the rapid union of a substance with oxygen. The temperature at which the burning takes place is called the kindling point. The article burned is burned or oxidized. This burning is also called oxidization. Oxygen exists free (this means that it is not combined with other materials) in the air, and forms about one-fifth of its volume. Wood, oil and coal are composed mainly of carbon and hydrogen, and are all incapable of supporting combustion or burning without the assistance of oxygen. Hence, all our household structures or stoves for the burning of wood or coal have a draft at the bottom of the fire-box. In gas and oil stoves oxygen is supplied through perforations at the base of the burners. In a gas stove we call them mixers, or Bunsen burners. In an oil stove a perforated tube encircles the wick, allowing the air to enter equally at all points. This mixture of air with gas produced by the burning wick gives the blue flame, the same as the burner on the gas stove. Where a balance is kept up there are no free particles of carbon to deposit themselves upon the utensils in the form of soot. Too much air hinders combustion; the direct pipe or chimney damper should be closes as soon as the fire is kindled. This will save the fuel and keep up an intense and even heat throughout the stove. All properly arranged stove drafts are adapted to the size of the fire-box and constructed to admit the least possible quantity of air beyond that necessary for active combustion. The cook who opens wide the lower door has not vet learned how to make or keep a good cooking fire. When the fire does not burn she gives it an occasional "poke," which still further deadens it. Gas is the cheapest and most easily managed of all fuels providing care is given to its use. A good gas stove well managed will, counting in the time for care and lack of dust, cost one-third less than coal. A good blue-flame oil stove is quite its equal as far as cooking is concerned, but requires more care, as it must be filled and have the wicks adjusted each day. In the hands of a careful cook neither gas nor oil stoves give off unpleasant odors. For all cooking purposes, a blue flame is desirable. For illumination, a red flame. Coal and charcoal are mostly carbon in rather an impure state. Hard or anthracite coal being dense, almost pure carbon, must be heated throughout before combustion will take place. For this reason, on kindling a coal fire some lighter material which will, while burning, heat the coal, must be used. When once heated to the point of combustion the coal readily takes fire, and other coal placed on top of the hot coal will, in turn, burn. Wood on top of coal deadens and smothers the fire. Boxes or stoves used for heating or cooking purposes are not complete unless they are attached to a chimney or flue. Flames tend upward; heated air expands, becomes lighter and is pressed upward by the heavier air with which it is surrounded. The fire is kindled at the bottom of the stove where the cold air enters the fire-box, and this is also at the bottom of the chimney. Thus, as the air is heated, it is pressed upward in the chimney, causing a "draft." The cold air coming in at the bottom in its turn is heated, and so keeps on this continuous pushing upward The chimney also serves to carry off the poisonous products of combustion. Any interference with the upward tendency of hot air causes the chimney to smoke. There are several causes for smoky chimneys. The rate of motion of the current varies with the size, height or length and temperature of the chimney. A cold chimney, one that has been standing idle all summer, or a new chimney will smoke. The fresh brick and mortar are good conductors of heat, and absorb it so rapidly that the rising current becomes cold, condenses and obstructs the ascent. The smoke crowded underneath fills the chimney and is forced down and into the room. To avoid this, start a fresh fire with an abundance of light material, such as shavings or excelsior, until the chimney is heated and the smoke begins to ascend easily; then add hard wood or coal. It must be remembered that with this smoke come also the poisonous products of combustion, which make a perfect flue a necessity. The higher the chimney, the greater the draft. A brick chimney, however, may be so high that it will cool the air current below the top or outlet. For this reason, pipes of galvanized iron are used as extension shafts. High buildings and tall trees overshadowing a chimney frequently disturb the draft, which is another cause for smoking chimneys. The wind passes down the chimney with sufficient rapidity to cool the ascending air, which is forced back and down into the room. In wood fires we frequently notice volumes of flame coming out through the openings of the stove. Such conditions can be regulated only by extensions to the chimney. An ordinary cook stove with such a draft would, on a quiet day, bake beautifully, but never when the wind is blowing. To condemn a stove thus placed would be folly. In this country there are very few ill-constructed cooking-stoves; the defects are usually in the chimneys. Chimneys built on the south or east side of a house give less trouble than those on the west or north side. The cold air is apt to chill them. When there are two fireplaces in the house, or a fireplace below and a stove entering the chimney above, the fire in one or the other will not burn well unless the one not used is closed. For example, if a fire is lighted on the first floor and the stove or pipe hole is open on the second, the current is interrupted and the room will fill with smoke and gas. This difficulty will be remedied by keeping the stove closed on the second floor while the fire is burning on the first floor, or closing the chimney place below, or lighting a fire in it when there is a fire on the second floor. Air entering a flue or stovepipe horizontally will also interrupt the draft. For this reason a damper in the stovepipe is used to cool off or check the fire. Anthracite coal being nearly solid carbon may be arranged to "keep." To accomplish this, lift the lid on the top of the stove, or open a little damper at the top of the fire-box; this will allow cold air to enter, pass over the upper surface of the coal, chill it, and prevent rapid burning. As this is imperfect combustion, great care must be taken to have the chimney flue open, that the products of combustion may not come out into the room. Carbon-monoxide, the product of imperfect combustion, is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. Being an accumulative poison it is still more dangerous. As hard coal contains a little sulphur, the odor of the sulphur is noticed, when the drafts are imperfect, which is like the sounding of an alarm-bell, for carbon-monoxide is found in its company. Gas stoves used continually for cooking purposes must, like coal stoves, be attached to a chimney to carry off the poisonous products of combustion. There is less danger in summer, when all doors and windows are open. GAS COOKERY The application of heat is just the same, no matter what fuel is used. Oil, gas, wood or coal gives about the same result, when managed by a trained housewife. Gas cooking is the ideal cooking. It is economical and cleanly, two very important points. Roasting and broiling in a gas stove are done underneath the gas jets, in other words in the lower oven, by some called the broiling oven or broiling chamber. The oven must be heated for five or eight minutes before using. Where economy of space must be observed a small flat top gas stove with three burners with a steam cooker and a portable oven, will easily serve a family of six to eight. The baking is done precisely the same as in any other stove. Heat all ovens thoroughly before putting in the articles. Some cakes require a cool oven, but even then jets must be lighted a few minutes before using the oven. For meats and all articles requiring a very hot oven, light the gas five minutes before using the oven, from three to four if a cool oven is called for. To use gas economically, one must always keep in mind the capacity of a single burner. The gas must be lighted when you are ready to use it, and turned out the moment you have finished. Under such circumstances, taking also into consideration that it does not require time for replenishing, as an oil, coal or wood stove, and there is no dust or ashes to remove, gas is the cheapest of all fuels. In preparing a dinner on a gas stove, select vegetables that may be cooked in the oven, and meat cooked in the underneath oven or broiling chamber, or materials that may be cooked in a steam cooker on top of the stove on a single burner. By paying attention to details of this kind a gas range may be used, the necessary water heated for scullery and laundry purposes, at a cost of not over $10 per quarter; much cheaper than coal for the same amount of work. A sample dinner prepared at a minimum cost: Cream of Pea Soup Broiled Steak Baked Potatoes Scalloped Tomatoes Salad Mock Charlotte First prepare the charlotte. In so doing, use one burner on the top of the. stove, allowing five minutes for its use. An hour before dinner time, light the oven burners; when the indicator registers 9, wash the potatoes, put them in a baking pan and in the oven on the grate. Prepare the scalloped tomatoes, stand them aside as they require but twenty minutes cooking. Trim and wipe the steak ready for broiling. It will require fifteen minutes, and the broiling chamber is already heated. Light a top burner for the pea soup, which will be made while you are broiling the steak, if canned peas are used; if fresh, allow fifteen minutes for the first boiling of the peas press them through a colander, and finish while the steak is broiling. Gas Stove Showing Thermometer or Indicator Gas Stove Baking and Broiling An illustration of Two Large Gas Stoves showing the Baking and Boiling Processes. Twenty minutes before dinner place the tomatoes in the oven. In five minutes put the steak underneath. Now finish up the soup. Turn out the burner, the water in the under boiler will keep it sufficiently hot. The potatoes are done Take each one carefully in a napkin; press it until it is perfectly soft within the skin, being careful not to break the skin, and dish them on a folded napkin. Dish and season the steak. Turn out the oven burners at once. Place everything in the oven to keep warm while the soup is being served. The cooking of all this dinner, if carefully managed, will cost not more than five cents. Let us observe for a moment the reverse of this meal. We will have boiled or mashed potatoes; these will require an extra burner. Select stewed tomatoes instead of baked. These will take another burner. The soup will take the third, and the oven will be lighted for twenty or twenty-five minutes for heating and broiling the steak. It can be seen at a glance that seven or eight cents will be required against the five cents in the first case. Large gas bills are not, as a rule, caused by the stove or the meter, but the lack of thought or knowledge of the cook. Where long, slow cooking becomes necessary, as in the making of stock and the cooking of cereals, use the simmering burner, after the articles have first been brought to boiling point. On baking days where six or eight loaves of bread must be baked at one time, put four on the underneath grate and four on the upper grate. After the bread has been baking fifteen minutes change the upper for the under row; turn down the burners to the minimum and bake slowly after the loaves have all been nicely browned. When using the oven for baking purposes, it is wise to select a small roast or a steak , for the dinner, as these can be roasted or broiled underneath thus again making double use of the oven burners. When baking cakes or cinnamon bun, that require a sow fire, chicken or fricandeau may be cooked underneath. A slow fire is much the better roasting fire. In baking, light the oven burners least five minutes before putting the articles in the oven. Meats or poultry require a very quick oven Heat until the indicator points to 12; continue at full heat until the meat is seared on the outside, then turn down the gas until the hand runs back to 8 and cook slowly fifteen minutes to each pound. For pastry the indicator should point to 10; bake at baking. Bread in square loaves does not require extreme heat. The indicator should register 8 during the entire baking. For large loaves, gradually increase to 9, at which point the baking will be finished. For angel food, sunshine and sponge cake, start at 6; increase the heat slowly for 20 minutes until it registers 8; finish cooking at this point. Three-quarters of an hour is the time allowed for the baking. For cakes containing butter, heat to 6 before putting in the cakes; after twenty minutes increase the heat to 8, and finish. Bake a cup, or pound cake at slow heat, register at 7, for two hours. TO BROIL STEAK Light the oven burners at least five minutes before the time for broiling. Allow twelve to fifteen minutes for a steak an inch and a half thick. When the rack and pan are hot, place the steak on the rack, and put it as near the flames as possible without having it touch. As soon as it is seared and brown on one side, turn, sear and brown on the other. Now turn again. Remove the rack three or four slides down, but do not reduce the heat. Cook for five minutes; turn the steak and broil for five minutes longer and it is ready to season and serve. A steak properly broiled will be "done" throughout, rare and juicy, not raw or purple in the middle, as is usually the case over a coal fire. Broil chops the same as steak. For broiling or planking fish, heat the oven five minutes, and place the fish flesh side up; when nicely browned, turn clown the burners and cook slowly for a half hour. Fish cooked under the gas is most delicious. In these days good cooks no longer guess at oven temperatures. They have positive results; gas, as well as wear and tear on one's nerves, are saved. One knows when the oven is ready, how much to reduce the heat, and how to regulate until the baking is done. There is no opening or closing of the doors allowing the escape of the heat during baking. The temperatures given above are exclusively for gas cooking. BOILING It may seem presumptuous to suggest that few people know how to boil water, but such is the case. During my experience as a teacher, which extends over a period of twenty years, I can safely say that not more than fifty ladies applying for admission to my school have been able to tell what is meant by the "boiling of water," or the different temperatures at which it boils, and why, and what chemical changes take place during and after the boiling. We boil water in the kitchen for two purposes: for the cooking of the water itself frequently to remove dangerous germs, and for the purpose of cooking other materials. The average housewife?-I am speaking now of the masses?-has few conveniences for experimental examinations, hence she must take a great deal for granted. The boiling point, under ordinary atmospheric pressure (sea level), is 212° Fahr.; this point changes according to the altitude. When bubbles form on the bottom of the kettle, come clear to the surface and rupture quietly without making an ebullition, the water is simmering. At this point the thermometer should register 180° Fahr., and it is at this temperature that we cook meats and make soups. When the bubbles begin to form on the sides and bottom of the vessel and come toward the top of the water, there is a motion in the water, but it is not really boiling hot; it is simply giving back the atmospheric gases which have been absorbed within. It is only when the thermometer reaches 212° Fahr. and the water is in rapid motion that it can be called boiling water, and the atmospheric gases still continue to be given off with the steam for a considerable time after the water has commenced to boil rapidly; in fact, it is difficult to determine when the last traces have been expelled. It is safe oppose, however, that ten minutes' boiling will free the water from its gases, make it tasteless and render it unfit for the making of tea, coffee or other light infusions of delicate materials. By filtering boiled water, allowing it to drop from an upper into a lower vessel, it will be aerated and assume its original flavor. Boiled water is flat. The mineral matter in this water, which is calcareous, is precipitated. Our tea-kettle, if not cleaned daily, becomes encrusted with these materials. We speak of boiling meats, boiling eggs, boiling vegetables, but we know that these materials are much better when cooked in water below the boiling point. But it is very difficult to get ride of the terms "boiled." Boiled meat is not boiled at all, but is cooked far below the boiling point that the fibre may be softened and the meat made tender. The meat itself does not boil, even if the water surrounding it is boiling. Boil a piece of meat at full gallop for thirty minutes, after the meat has been thoroughly heated, plunge a thermometer into the centre of the meat, and to your surprise it will not register over 170° Fahr. Meats baked in very hot ovens register about the same. Boiling is one of the simplest and best methods of cooking the so-called inferior pieces of meat, and consists in plunging the whole piece into a large kettle of boiling water. The meat must be entirely covered, boiling rapidly for five minutes, the temperature of the water then lowered to 160° or 180° Fahr., and the cooking continued at this temperature. Some cooks lower the water to 130°, especially for mutton. Meat loses greater weight in the boiling than by any other process. The better pieces of meat, such as the round and shoulder, lose about twenty-five per cent., and such a piece as the brisket, being rich in fat, loses forty per cent. Four pounds of beef will lose one pound. Four pounds of mutton will lose fourteen ounces. Salt meats that have already parted with a large portion of their juices must be thoroughly washed in cold water and put on to boil in cold water; the water in which they were boiled may be saved for other purposes. All water in which meats are boded should be saved for stock and sauces. For soups, start always with cold water. All vegetables go over the fire in boiling water; there is no exception to this rule. Such as turnips, cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts, after the first boil, must be cooked slowly in an uncovered kettle. Rice and macaroni boil rapidly, not that rapidly boiling water gives a greater degree of heat, but the motion washes apart or separates the particles or grains. Rice cooked slowly in a small quantity of water is heavy and unsightly. STEAMING Steaming is an admirable method of cooking tough meats or hams, fruit cakes, puddings and things requiring a long, moist heat. Modern housewives use for this purpose a "cooker" or sterilizer. The old-fashioned perforated steamer over a kettle of boiling water will, however, answer every purpose. Steaming requires a little longer time than boiling. Potatoes, rice, peas, beans, corn, squash, cucumbers and pumpkins may be steamed. Materials never boil in a double boiler, nor are they steamed. Things cooked in a double boiler are cooked below boiling point. For making custards, scalding milk or cooking cereals, it is most advantageous, as it removes all danger of burning. ROASTING By this method the nutritive juices and the flavor extractives, are more thoroughly retained than by any other method of cooking. Roasting and broiling are practically the same, and mean to expose one side of the meat to the fire, while the other is exposed to the fresh air. The method is almost obsolete in this country, as conveniences for such cooking have gone out of date. In our hurried life such methods are too slow, except where the gauze door oven is used. Baking has almost entirely substituted the roasting of beef. Roasting most thoroughly and quickly seals the juices on the outside, forming a crust which acts as a barrier, preventing further escape of the juices. The meat loses less weight than by boiling, is richer and finer in flavor. Beef, mutton, game, turkeys or chickens in fact a meats with the exception of pork and veal have the best and highest flavor when cooked in this fashion. The loss of weight in roasting is due to the loss of water and fat, which amount about twenty per cent. BAKING This is a method of cooking in the oven of a stove. It is by no means an inferior way of cooking meat, providing the basting is carefully done. We bake our bread, cake, potatoes and tomatoes, meats, poultry and game. Four pounds of beef will lose in baking one pound three ounces; four pounds of mutton will lose in baking one pound four ounces. STEWING OR FRICASSEEING This is really "boiling," in a sauce. After the meat has been browned either by throwing it into a hot pan or into a little hot fat, it is cooked in a brown sauce at a temperature of 180° Fahr. If the mixture is allowed to boil hard during the cooking it will become tough and shriveled. When properly stewed the texture is soft and loose and readily breaks down under mastication. This is why we are told that stewed meats are easy of digestion. Stewing is the most economical method of cooking meats. There is practically no loss. The loss in weight is not 15 per cent., and what is lost to the meat is held in the sauce, so that really one gets a full return for each dollar spent. BRAISING Braising is a cross between boiling and baking, a method largely employed in France; hence we take for granted that it must be an economical way of cooking meats. It is best adapted to inferior pieces, those requiring long, slow cooking. A covered pan is employed for the purpose, and in this country is called a "roasting pan;" but we cannot "roast" in a covered pan. The meat is placed in the pan, the pan partly filled with stock or water, then closely covered and placed in a well heated oven. The meat browns even while the water in the pan is evaporating; tough or dense flesh, such as that found in old poultry or cattle illy fed, when cooked in this manner, is tender and palatable, hence more easy of digestion. It is also a choice method of cooking veal and pork. Flavor insipid meat, such as veal, with bay leaf, carrots, onions and various herbs placed in the pan during the braising. The loss to the meat in cooking is held in the water or stock which is used for the sauce. BROILING OR GRILLING This is the same as roasting, applied to a smaller portion of meat. We broil or grill our steaks, chops, spring chicken and fish. FRYING By frying we mean cooking by immersion in hot fat at a temperature of 350° to 380° Fahr. There must be sufficient fat in the pan to wholly cover each article. We fry such things as croquettes, egg plant and oysters. This method is less injurious than sauteing. When fats are heated to a high temperature, fatty acids are developed, which greatly irritate the digestive organs. Fried meats are always to be avoided even by persons with strong digestion. They will in time produce disorders of the digestive tract. The art of frying is little understood in the average household. The products of the frying pan are usually indigestible, greasy, unsightly and unpalatable. Fats over-heated, before the articles are fried, are most injurious. If too cool, foods are greasy and under-done. An article well fried will come from the fat as free from grease as though it had been cooked in water. A croquette that will soil the fingers as it is taken from the fat is not fit for food. Fried oysters leaving their marks on the serving plate are certaintly not palatable or dainty. Oil is the best material for frying. "Ko-nut" or "Nut-ko," made from cocoanut, a cocoanut butter, is also excellent. The compounds sold under various names as cottosuet, cottolene and vegetole are mixtures of suet and cotton-seed oil, are wholesome and give better results than lard. Lard is last to be chosen, it absorbs easily, consequently is expensive. Foods fried in pure lard are greasy and rather offensive. All warmed-over foods, as croquettes and cecils, must be dipped in egg and rolled in bread crumbs before frying. The egg rich in albumin coagulates, forming a thin grease proof covering over the outside, as soon as they are put into the hot fat. Thus articles are cooked fat without taking up the fat. This fat, when cool, must be strained and put aside to use over and over again, as long as it lasts. Ten pounds of fat will last the entire winter and you may fry four or five times a week, if the digestion of the family will allow. SAUTéING This is cooking in a small quantity of fat. An omelet, lyon naise potatoes, hash brown potatoes are sautéd, not fried. Butter is usually employed for this purpose, but is the poorest of all frying materials, as it decomposes at a very low temperature. Oil is more wholesome. LARDING By this we mean stitching a piece of meat with strips of fat salt pork. These strips are called "lardoons," and are usually two inches in length and an eighth of an inch in width. The "needle" used for the purpose is called a larding needle; instead of having an eye at the end, it has four slits which fold together as it is pulled through the meat. Place the strip of fat pork down into the needle, take a stick as shown in the cut, pull the needle through the meat leaving a portion of the lardoon at each end. We lard sweet breads, game, poultry, veal and fillet of beef. It is not, however, at all necessary or obligatory that any of these shall be larded, but it is the ordinary method. People not using- pork simply omit that part of the recipe. Larding An illustration of the Larding Process. SOUPS SIMPLE UTENSILS FOR MAKING SOUP Perhaps first in importance for the making of good soup arc the utensils necessary for its preparation. The juices of meat are acid; hence it is undesirable to use either tin or iron; even after a thorough cleaning, they will impart an unpleasant odor, and spoil the flavor of the soup for the person with a delicate palate. An ordinary granite kettle with a closely fitting lid will answer every purpose. If you can afford a little more at first cost, the one with an outside copper bottom will last twice as long, and is really more desirable. The bottom being double prevents the rapid boiling which is always objectionable for clear soups. Have the kettle sufficiently large to hold the bones, the meat and the water, and leave a space, of at least four inches, from the top. This will allow of easy skimming. As the ordinary clear soup is made from bone and meat, rapid boiling clouds the soup, making a clear soup impossible, without clarification; hence the necessity for great care in making. STRAINING An ordinary colander may be used for the first straining, and after this a purée sieve. For a perfectly clear or brilliant soup, a double cheesecloth is preferable to a flannel bag. The objection to flannel is that it holds the flavor or odor of the soup, and is rarely thoroughly cleansed; then at the next straining, it gives to the soup a stale. unpleasant flavor. Cheesecloth is easily cleansed; the fibre of cotton is more yielding than that of flannel. Use always cold water in making soups. As all the nourishment of meat cannot be drawn out into the water, the meat from soups should be saved and used for such dishes as pressed meats, sandwiches and curries, where added flavorings are pronounced. The water draws out the albumin, which coagulates and is removed from the top by skimming. It is the coagulation of all the albumin throughout the hot liquid, as it gradually comes to the surface, that clarifies the stock. This nourishment is lost both to the soup and meat, but the fibre remains undissolved. The salts or mineral matter have been dissolved in the water, taking the flavor and odor from the meat; hence made dishes with decided flavor only are palatable. SOUP Soups may be divided into four classes : Those containing considerable nourishment, as thick milk soups; the clear soups containing vegetables, moderately nourishing; the thin clear soups containing the stimulating elements of the beef, without nourishment, as stock, consommé, bouillon; and the cold fruit soups. Those of the last class are used only in the summer at the beginning of a luncheon, are rather heavy, and cannot be considered hygienic. Perfectly clear soups and those containing bits of vegetables are dinner soups; while the milk or so-called "cream" soups may be used for luncheon or supper where they form a part of the nourishment of the meal. In most well-to-do families, soup begins the dinner. As the dishes following are rich in food value, the soup need not necessarily be nutritious. Under such circumstances, a perfectly clear soup is desirable, the object being to draw into the stomach the digestive fluids before the entrance of solid food. But where a soup is to form the entire dinner, as it frequently does among the middle or laboring classes, it must contain sufficient meat and vegetable material to give the necessary nourishment. In France, among the country folk, the ordinary pot-au-feu always palatable, nutritious and economical, and no one complains of being hungry immediately after, as is usually the case in this country, where "things" are strained out and too often thrown away. To repeat, water cannot dissolve the fibre of beef, which holds a large part of the nourishment. Clear soups are only Soup Kettle Measuring Cup Skimming Spoon Page47 An illustration of a Soup Kettle, a Measuring Cup and a Skimming Spoon. Soup and Gravy Strainers 1 Purée Sieve 2 Soup Colander 3 Soup Sieve 4 Coarse Gravy 5 Fine Gravy Strainer An illustration of Different Soup and Gravy Strainers. made nutritious by the addition of other materials: in themselves they have no food value, but are important at the beginning of a heavy dinner. While the fashion of having a dinner soup is confined to the few, the masses would follow, I am sure, if they knew the hygiene of the fashion. For clear soup, select either a plain stock, bouillon or consommé. The first may be made from fresh meat, or the bones from cooked meats. The latter method is recommended to those who wish to live well and economically. Bouillon is a light clear soup served in cups at the beginning of a luncheon. Consommé is the most expensive and the most tasty of all clear soups; it is always used as a dinner soup. STOCK Stock is the foundation of all the clear soups, and the very life and essence of all meat sauces. To make a perfectly clear stock use a shin of beef, meat and bone in proportion of one pound of meat to a half pound of tone. Wipe it carefully with a damp cloth; cut the meat from the bone; and then into small blocks or pieces. Put into the stock kettle two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one sliced onion; stir over a hot fire until the onion and sugar brown and burn. Throw in the meat, keeping the kettle still quite hot; shake and stir the meat until it seems slightly scorched; then add the bones that have been well cracked and five quarts of cold water cover the kettle, bring slowly to boiling point and skim. Push the kettle now over a moderate fire where it will just bubble, not boil, for three hours. At the end of this time add one onion into which you have stuck twelve cloves, a bay leaf, a carrot, a few green tops of celery or a half teapoonful of celery seed, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cover and simmer gently for another hour. These vegetables may be saved and used purée. A wire vegetable ball is a convenience. Now strain the stock and stand it aside to cool. When cold remove every particle of fat from the surface, and it is ready for use. If carefully made this will be clear, brown, transparent, and when cold a thick jelly. The meat that is strained from the stock must not be thrown away, but put aside for the making of pressed meats or curries. STOCK FOR CONSOMMé This is, as a rule, of rather better flavor than stock made entirely from beef. Purchase a shin of beef and a shin of veal, or what the butchers call a " knuckle of veal. " Wipe both carefully with a damp cloth. Have them well cracked; remove the meat from the bone, and cut it into blocks. Put two table-spoonfuls of sugar and a sliced onion into the soup kettle to brown and burn; then add the meat from the veal and beef. When this is carefully seared, add the bones and six quarts of cold water. Finish the same as in the preceding recipe. STOCK FROM BEEF AND CHICKEN This, perhaps, is one of the most delicate of all stocks. Purchase a fowl that can be used as a boiled fowl for dinner. Draw and truss. Put the sugar and onion into the kettle as directed in preceding recipes. Cut the meat from the shin of beef into blocks; put it into the kettle until seared; then add the bones. Now arrange the chicken so that it will rest, as it were, on these bones. Add five quarts of cold water. Bring to boiling point and skim. Simmer gently until the chicken is tender, and then take it out for use. Continue cooking the stock for at least three hours; season and finish as in stock recipe. WHITE STOCK This term is given to stock made from veal and chicken alone. Where one has a roasted breast of veal, the bones may be used with the carcass of chickens for white stock, for milk soups and sauces. Or you may purchase a fowl and a knuckle of veal. Frying Basket Frying Pan Croquette Mold An illustration of a Frying Basket, Frying Pan and a Croquette Mold. A Group of Inexpensive Convenient Utensils An illustration of Sifferent kitchen utensils. Leg or Shin of Beef Page 49 An illustration of a Leg or Shin or Beef. This, however, would be an extravagant method, and only necessary in large establishments with large families. All meats used in soup may be made over into such dishes as curries and pressed meats. STOCKFROM BONES The economical housewife saves every bone left from the centre of steaks, the bones from roasts, the carcasses of poultry and the liquid in which they have been boiled, for the usual househ old stock for everyday soups. These bones may be placed in the refrigerator from day to day until the allotted time for cooking. They must be cracked, placed in the soup kettle, covered with cold water and simmered gently for four hours. At the first boil, skim. At the end of the third hour, add the flavorings the same as in plain stock. The delicate flavor of each vegetable depends upon the volatile materials they contain. This, of course, is easily dissipated if the stock is boiled hard or long after they are added; hence the desirability of adding them just one hour before the stock is strained. If they are put in at the beginning of the four hours, the bitter rather than the pleasant flavor is extracted, and the soup will not be agreeable. Select ironing or baking days for the making of stock, when one is obliged to have long fires for other work; in this way both fuel and time are saved. Stock made from the left-over meats or bones is not, as a rule, as clear as that made from fresh meats. When wanted perfectly clear, it must be clarified. To clarify remove the fat from the surface; turn the stock carefully into the soup kettle, allowing the sediment to remain in the bottom of the bowl. Beat the whites of two eggs with the washed shells and a half cup of cold water. Add this to the cold soup; mix carefully; bring to boiling point, an add a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Boil hardfor five minutes. Let stand a moment to settle; strain carefully through two or three thicknesses of cheesecloth wrung from cold water. The albumin in the white of egg acts mechanically, entangling the floating particles in a sort of fine membrane which is formed by the boiling, and leaves the soup perfectly clear. Stock may be kept in warm weather, under favorable circumstances, for four or five days; in winter, for ten or twelve days The first thing necessary to the preservation of stock is the removal of the fat. Second, it must be cooled quickly after it is strained. In summer, it will keep much longer if the vegetable flavorings are omitted; add salt and pepper only. BOUILLON 4 pounds of lean beef 3 quarts of cold water 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed or a few tops of celery 2 whole cloves Grating of nutmeg 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of sugar 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoonful chopped onion 1 tablespoonful chopped carrot 1 blade of mace Whites of 2 eggs and the crushed shells A dash of cayenne Bouillon is a clear soup made from lean beef without bone. It perhaps has less flavor than consommé, but is in many cases preferable. It is not a dinner soup; but is, as a rule, served in cups for luncheons and suppers. Chop fine the beef, after having removed all visible fat. Put the sugar into the soup kettle; brown and burn, then throw in the meat and add quickly the cold water. Stir the meat and the water until the meat is reduced to a sort of pulp. Push the kettle over the fire; bring to boiling point. Do not skim, but push the kettle back where the bouillon will simmer gently for three hours, keeping the kettle closely covered. At the end of this time, add the bay leaves, celery seed or a few tops of celery, chopped onion, carrot, cloves, mace and grating of nutmeg; simmer gently for thirty minutes, and strain. Add to the bouillon the whites of the eggs, that have been slightly beaten, with crushed shells. Mix well together, bring quickly to boiling point, boil five minutes, and strain through two thicknesses of cheesecloth. Stand aside to cool. When cold remove the globules of fat from the surface. Season with a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper and a few drops of kitchen bouquet to each quart of bouillon. CHICKEN BOUILLON 1 fowl 2 quarts of cold water 1 blade of mace 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed or a few celery tops 1 saltspoonful of pepper Procure a nice fowl; draw, wash and dry quickly and carefully. Cut it into pieces, removing all the flesh from the bones. Put the flesh through the meat chopper. Put the sugar into the soup kettle, and when it is browned and burned throw in the chicken meat. Stir this around for a moment; then add the cold water and the bones. Cover the kettle; bring to boiling point and skim. Simmer gently for two hours. At the end of that time add the celery tops or celery seed, the mace, a bay leaf, and if you have it, a clove of garlic; if not, add simply a slice of onion. Simmer gently for thirty minutes and strain. This may be clarified the same as in preceding recipe, and served in cups for lunch. Season with salt and pepper. If carefully made, it is one of the daintiest of all clear soups. CONSOMMé a la COLBERT While the stock or consomme is being heated for dinner, carefully poach a sufficient number of eggs to allow one to each person. When the consomme is hot and nicely seasoned turn it into the tureen and drop in carefully the eggs; send at once to the table. CONSOMMé WITH MACARONI Boil the macaroni first in clear water for thirty minutes; cut it too pieces, add it to hot consomme or stock. Any starchy vegetable matter boiled in consomme or stock will cloud it. Spaghetti or any of the Italian pastes may be, used in the same way, first having been boiled in water until soft. CONSOMMé a la DUCHESS 1/2 cup of bread crumbs 1 egg 1/2 cup of soft cheese 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of cayenne Work together all these ingredients; form into tiny balls the size of small marbles. Roll them in egg and drop quickly into boiling stock or water. They cannot, however, be dropped into the stock in which they are to be served, or it will become clouded. Take them out with the skimmer, put into the soup tureen, pour over the hot stock and send at once to the table. CONSOMMé WITH EGG BALLS 3 hard boiled eggs White of one egg 2 quarts of stock 1 tablespoonful of grated parmes or soft cheese 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of cayenne Press the yolks of the eggs through a sieve; add the salt, pepper and cheese. Now add slowly the uncooked white of egg. Make this into tiny balls like marbles; drop them into a saucepan of boiling water or into a little hot consommé. Lift carefully with a skimmer, put them into a tureen, and pour over the hot stock. CONSOMMé WITH MARROW BALLS 1/2 cup of soft bread crumbs 1/2 teaspoonful of clear onion juice 1 saltspoonful of salt 1/4 cup of chopped marrow 1 egg 2 quarts of stock A dash of pepper Mix together the bread crumbs and chopped marrow. Season with salt, clear onion juice, and a dash of pepper; mix well and add gradually the yolk of the egg. Make this into small balls, roll them quickly in the white of egg, slightly beaten; drop them into boiling water. They will first go to the bottom of the saucepan, but in a moment will come to the surface. As soon as they float (about two minutes) lift with a skimmer and put at once into a tureen; carefully pour over the hot stock. CONSOMMé WITH SUET BALLS 2 ounces of suet 2 quarts of stock 8 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of pepper Remove the membrane from the suet, chop fine, add the flour and the salt and pepper; mix, and add sufficient ice water to just moisten, not to make it wet. Make into tiny balls, drop them into a little boiling stock, and cook slowly for five minutes. Put them into the soup tureen and pour over the hot stock. CONSOMMé WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped cold meat 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 l/2 quarts of stock 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley Yolk of one egg 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of pepper Chop fine any cold meat that has been left over, chicken, veal or beef. Four tablespoonfuls of this meat will make sufficient for six people. Add the bread crumbs; season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a few drops of onion juice. Add the yolk of egg and work carefully until the bread is moistened by the egg. Form into tiny balls, drop into a small quantity of boiling stock. Push the kettle to one side of the fire where they cannot boil rapidly, or they may go to pieces. Cook slowly for five minutes. Drain, put into the soup tureen and pour over the hot stock. CONSOMMé WITH ALMOND BALLS 24 almonds Whites of two eggs Stale bread crumbs 2 quarts of stock 1/2 saltspoonful of salt Blanch and chop or grind fine the almonds. Mix with them the stale bread crumbs. Add the salt, and then sufficient white of egg to bind the whole together; work well, make into tiny balls roll them in the remaining white of egg and drop them quickly into hot oil -do not use butter. If you are without oil, use your ordinary frying material, whatever that may be, either lard or suet. Shake until they are a golden brown; lift with a skimmer turn for a moment on to soft brown paper and then put into the soup tureen and pour over at once nicely seasoned hot stock. CONSOMMé WITH GERMAN FARINA BLOCKS 1 egg 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 4 tablespoonfuls of farina 1 quart ofstock A half teaspoonful of salt Beat the egg without separating until fairly light; then stir in the farina, sprinkling it in slowly that the mixture may be smooth. It should be about the thickness of good molasses. Add the salt. Put two tablespoonfuls of olive oil into an ordinary saute pan; when hot, pour in the farina mixture. Push it on the back part of the stove where it will brown slowly. This will take at least ten minutes. Then turn it as you would a pan-cake and brown it on the other side. Lift carefully from the oil and drain on brown paper. Cut into cubes of a half inch, put at once into the soup tureen and pour over the sea-soned hot stock. CONSOMMé a la ROYALE 1 egg 1 quart of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt 1/2 teaspoonful of clear onion juice 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper Beat the egg until the white and yolk are thoroughly mixed. Add two tablespoonfuls of the stock, the clear onion juice, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and turn into a small custard cup. Stand this cup in a pan of hot water and cook in the oven until the custard is set. Turn it out carefully, and cut into dice. Or you may cook it in a shallow pan and cut it into fancy shapes. Put these blocks into the tureen and pour over the seasoned hot stock. CONSOMMé WITH SPINACH BLOCKS 1 pint of spinach 1 drop of tobasco 1 egg 1 quart of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt Pick the leaves from the spinach. Wash them, throw them into a dry kettle and sprinkle over the salt. Stand the kettle over a moderate fire where the spinach will sort of melt; then push it over a hotter portion of the stove, stir for five minutes, drain and chop very fine. Press it through a sieve; add the egg, well beaten, a drop of tobasco and the salt. Put this into a small pie plate or pan, stand it in another of boiling water and cook in the oven until solid. Cut into fancy shapes or blocks, put into the soup tureen and turn over the hot, seasoned stock. CONSOMMé WITH TOMATO BLOCKS For this use, if possible, tomato conserve. If one is, however, obliged to use canned tomatoes take the thickest or best portion of the tomatoes; press through a sieve and then cook slowly to a thick paste. Take a half cup of this paste, add just a suspicion of ground mace, a quarter of a saltspoonful, salt and tobasco. Stir in the whites of two eggs slightly beaten. Pour into a pie dish, stand in a pan of water and cook in the oven until thoroughly set; cut into fancy shapes. Put the consomme in the tureen first, and then carefully drop in the blocks. Serve at once. CONSOMMé WITH PEA BLOCKS 1 can of peas Whites of two eggs 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of celery seed or a few celery tops 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper Drain the water from a can of peas. Wash the peas and press one-half through a colander. Season with salt, pepper and celery seed; or use a half pint of fresh boiled peas. This will make sufficient for twelve people. Beat in carefully the unbeaten whites of two eggs. When well mixed turn into a pie tin or basin, stand it in a pan of boiling water and cook carefully in the oven. When cool cut into blocks, or fancy shapes and drop into hot, nicely seasoned consommé. CONSOMMé WITH CHESTNUTS Shell and blanch twenty-four chestnuts. Throw them into a pint of stock and cook carefully until they are just tender. Drain and dust them lightly with salt. Pour nicely seasoned chicken consommé or broth into the tureen and drop in the chestnuts. These must be handled lightly, as they break easily. CONSOMMé WITH CURRY 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 large sour apple A sprig of thyme 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of curry powder 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 1 onion A sprig of parsley 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the butter into a saucepan and add the onion sliced. Cook slowly without browning the butter. Turn this into the soup kettle. Add the apple cored and sliced; do not pare it; add all the other seasonings and the curry. Stir for a moment, and add one quart of good chicken stock. Cover, bring to boiling point and simmer gently ten minutes. Put the boiled rice into the tureen, strain over the hot soup and send at once to the table. SOUP JULIENNE 1 quart of stock 1 small turnip 3 young leeks 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 small carrot 1 gill of green peas or asparagus heads A saltspoonful of pepper Scrape and cut the carrots into long thin strips. Pare and cut the turnip the same way; slice the leeks. Cover these with a quart of boiling water, and simmer gently until tender (about thirty minutes); then add the stock salt and pepper. The peas and asparagus will be cooked in separate saucepans, and the water in which they were cooked drained off and thrown away. Add them at the last moment to the soup. Lettuce is also nice added to this soup. With a round cutter about the size of a half dollar, cut bits from lettuce, and throw them into the boiling stock just at serving time. BARLEY SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of stock 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the barley in cold water, pour over boiling water, boil it rapidly five minutes, and drain. Cover it again with freshly boiled water, and let it cook slowly for at least two hours. Drain. When the stock is heated and seasoned at serving time, throw in the barley; let it stand for about five minutes, and serve. CLEAR SOUP WITH SAGO OR TAPIOCA For this select the coarse round tapioca. Wash thoroughly in cold water; cover with clear cold water, and soak for one or two hours, allowing two tablespoonfuls to each quart of stock. Add this to the stock. Bring to boiling point, and cook until clear. Add a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and serve at once. This is one of the nicest of clear soups. PORTUGUESE SOUP 1 quart of stock 8 nice prunes 3 leeks 1 teaspoonful of salt A saltspoonful of pepper Cover the prunes with cold water and soak over night. As a quart of soup is sufficient for four people, two prunes are allowed to each person. In the morning drain the prunes, add to the water in which they were soaked sufficient stock to make a quart. Add the leeks cut into two-inch pieces, and simmer until tender; then add the prunes, the salt and pepper. When hot, serve with long fingers of toasted bread. CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES This may be made from chicken consommé, or from the water in which a chicken has been boiled. When boiled chicken is to form the dinner meat, save the water in which it was cooked, and use it the next day for noodle soup. Do not have chicken soup and boiled chicken at the same meal. To each quart of strained and nicely seasoned stock, add one ounce of noodles. Boil rapidly for about five minutes and serve. CHICKEN SOUP WITH RICE This soup is not so clear when the rice is cooked in it, but the flavor is much better. Allow two tablespoonfuls of rice to each quart of chicken consommé or chicken broth; season, and cook slowly for twenty minutes. CONSOMMé à l'IMPERATRICE 1/2 cup chopped chicken 1 level tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 4 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 level tablespoonful of butter 1/2 cup of milk 1/2 saltspoonful of mace 1/2 pint of fresh green peas 2 quarts of chicken consommé 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper This is one of the most elaborate of all dinner soups. Take sufficient of the chicken meat which has been strained out of the chicken consommé to make a half cup (one gill). Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, mix, add one gill (a half cup) of milk, stir until boiling and add the salt, pepper, onion juice, mace and chopped parsley. Now add the chicken, mix thoroughly, and turn out to cool. At serving time form this into small balls, roll in egg and drop each as dipped quickly into hot fat or oil. Drain on soft paper. Have ready the fresh green peas and rice that have been boiled carefully in clear water. Put the rice and the peas into the soup tureen, turn over the nicely seasoned hot chicken consomme, drop in the force meat balls, and serve at once. TOMATO SOUP 1 quart can, or one quart of stewed tomatoes 1 carrot 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of stock or water 1 onion A few celery tops or a salt-spoonful of celery seed 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Add the stock and all the flavoring to the tomatoes cover and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Rub the butter and flour together; add them to this mixture; stir until again boiling; and press through a sieve. Re-heat and serve with croÛtons. EGG SOUP I quart of stock Yolks of two eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of rice 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the rice in the stock; cover and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes; press it through a sieve and return to the kettle. Beat the yolks of the two eggs; add to them a little of the hot soup; turn this into the kettle; stir for a moment until it reaches almost the boiling point-do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Take it from the fire; add the salt and pepper, and serve at once. ENGLISH BEEF SOUP 1 pint of dice of beef 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 quart of stock 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt A dash of pepper The meat for this soup is usually that strained from the stock. When cold, cut it into neat blocks. Put the butter and flour in a saucepan, mix, add the stock, then the salt, pepper and the kitchen bouquet. Bring to boiling point. Add the meat blocks and one hard boiled egg chopped fine. Put into the tureen half a lemon cut into thin slices and then into quarters; pour over the hot soup and serve at once. OX TAIL SOUP 1 ox tai1 1 small carrot 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart and a pint of stock 1 teaspoonful of Worcester-shire sauce 1 onion 1/2 lemon A grain of cayenne Singe and wash the ox tail; then cut into joints; cover with the stock; add all the seasoning and vegetables, and simmer gently one hour. Strain, and pick out the bits of ox tail; add them to the strained soup. Re-heat and put into the tureen the half a lemon cut into thin slices and then cut into quarters, and the Worcestershire sauce. If you use wine, add also four tablespoonfuls of Madeira. Pour over the hot soup, and serve at once. RABBIT SOUP 1 rabbit 2 hard boiled eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 level teaspoonful of salt 2 quarts of boiling water 1/2 a lemon 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion 1 saltspoonful of celery seed or a few celery tops 1 saltspoonful of pepper A bay leaf Skin, clean and singe a good-sized rabbit; cut off the hind quarters and the shoulders, and divide the remaining part into three pieces. Put the butter into a saucepan; add the onion, stir until a golden brown, being careful not to brown the butter. Roll each piece of the rabbit in flour; drop it into the butter, shake until a golden brown, again being careful not to brown the butter; now add the bay leaf, celery seed and water; bring to boiling point, and skim; draw to one side and simmer gently for one hour; add the salt and pepper. Take out the rabbit; remove the meat; cut it into pieces. Strain the soup; return it to the soup kettle; add the meat, a teaspoonful of kitchen bou-quet, and, if you have it, a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup, Put into the tureen the eggs and lemon cut into thin slices, pour over the soup, and serve at once. A GROUP OF THICK NUTRITIOUS SOUPS LENTILSOUP 1/2 pint of lentils 1 small onion 1 sprig of parsley 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of stock or 1 1/2 quarts of water A sprig of thyme 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the lentils; cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morning, drain; add the stock and a pint of water, or plain water, the bay leaf, thyme, salt and pepper, and simmer until the lentils are tender (about two hours); press through a colander, then through a sieve; return to the kettle. Rub the butter and flour together; add to the soup; stir until boiling; add the onion grated. Turn this into the soup tureen; sprinkle over the chopped parsley, and serve with croÛtons. SPLIT PEA SOUP Make this precisely the same as lentil soup, substituting a half pint of split peas for the lentils. BLACK BEAN SOUP 1 pint of black turtle beans 1 quart of good stock 1 lemon 1 1/2 quarts of boiling water 2 hard boiled eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans , drain, cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morning, drain again, and cover with the boiling water. Cover the kettle, and boil slowly for about two hours until the beans are very tender; add the salt, pepper and stock. Press the whole through a colander then through sieve. Rinse the kettle; return the soup to it, and bring to boiling point. Cut the eggs and lemon into thin slices and put them into the tureen pour over the boiling thick soup, and serve. If you use wine, put four tablespoonfuls into the tureen with the egg and lemon. WHITE BEAN SOUP 1 pint of dried white soup bean 1 1/2 quarts of boiling water 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 small onion 1 quart of good stock 1 saltspoonful of pepper Follow the rule for black bean soup , adding the onion grated just before the soup is pressed through the sieve at serving time. Serve with this croÛtons the size of dice. Plain water may be used, in place of stock or water, and a teaspoonful of beef extract. VEGETABLE SOUP 1 quart of good stock 1 small carrot 1/2 pint of peas 1 tomato 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of water 1 turnip 1/2 pint of 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the vegetables into fancy shapes, or chop them fine. Cover them with boiling water; cook slowly until tender. Put in first the carrot, turnip, beans and tomato. Add the peas later, as they require less time for cooking. Corn and white potato may also be added. Now add to this the stock, salt and pepper. The rice will be boiled separately in water, and added at the last moment. Being starchy, if boiled with the other vegetables, clouds the soup SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT Under this heading will be placed all the cream soups and vegetable purees made from water. If thick soups settle, they are either too thin, or the sieve through which they have been strained was not sufficiently fine. DRIED BEAN SOUP 1 pint of dried white soup beans 1 large tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 quarts of wafer 1 saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda 1 teaspoonful of salt Wash the beans thoroughly; cover them with cold water and soak over night. Next morning drain. Put them in a kettle with two quarts, of fresh cold water; as soon as they come to a boil, drain off this water and throw it away. Cover again with two quarts of fresh boiling water; add the bi- carbonate of soda, and boil gently until reduced to a pulp. Press the beans through a colander, then through a sieve; return them to the soup kettle; add the salt, pepper and butter, and serve at once If the soup has boiled rapidly and becomes too thick, add water to make it the consistency of thick cream. SOUP MAIGRE 1 carrot 3 or 4 stalks of the green portion of celery 2 tomatoes or a cup of canned tomatoes 2 quarts of water 1 onion 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape the carrot and cut into dice. Peel and slice the onion. Put the butter into a saucepan; when hot, not brown, throw in the carrot and onion, and shake until they are a golden brown. Be careful not to brown the butter. Put everything into the soup kettle except the flour; cover the kettle, and simmer gently for one hour; press through a colander. Moisten the flour in a little cold water, and add it to the soup; bring again to boiling point; press through a fine sieve, and serve at once with croutons. If this is carefully made, it is one of the nicest of all the vegetable soups. VEGETABLE BOUILLON 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 carrot 1 head of lettuce 2 whole cloves 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 onion 3 stalks of celery or a saltspoonful of celery seed1 bay leaf 1 blade of mace 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 quarts of cold water White of one egg Put the sugar into the soup kettle; let it brown and burn; add the onion; stir for a moment until the onion is brown; then add a carrot cut into dice and the celery; then the cold water. Now add the tomato cut into pieces, the lettuce shredded, the bay leaf, cloves, mace, salt and pepper. Bring to boiling point, and skim; simmer gently for two hours and strain. Add the beaten white of one egg; mix thoroughly, and bring to boiling point. This time strain through two thicknesses of cheesecloth and it is ready to serve. PURéE OF VEGETABLES 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, suet, cocoanut butteror olive oil 1 onion 1 tablespoonful of thyme 1 potato 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 large carrot 1 turnip A sprig of parsley 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 2 quarts of cold water 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the fat into a frying pan; add the onion sliced, and cook to a golden brown without browning the fat. Turn this into a soup kettle. Add the carrot and turnip sliced and all the other ingredients; the potato may be simply pared and thrown in whole. Cover the kettle and simmer gently for one hour; press through a colander; add the flour moistened in a little cold water; bring to boiling point; press again through a sieve, and serve with croÛtons. ENGLISH PEA PORRIDGE 1 pint of split peas 6 leeks or 2 good sized onions 2 ounces of bread 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 3 quarts of water 1 stalk of celery or a teaspoonful of celery seed 1 pint of mashed potatoes 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash and soak the peas over night. Cut the onions or locks into slices; cut the celery into pieces; put them with the Butter in a trying pan; stir constantly until a golden brown; throw potatoes . The peas, of course, must be drained. Cook slowly one hour. If the peas are not perfectly tender at the end of this time, simmer gently a little longer. Press the whole through a puree sieve; return to the kettle, add the potatoes , and when boiling, season, strain and serve. This porridge should be quite thick, almost as thick as breakfast oatmeal. If it has the slightest inclination to settle, it is too thin; add a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed to a smooth paste, bring the porridge to boiling point, and serve. BROWN BROTH 2 young carrots 1 potato 1 quart of boiling water 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter A bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape the carrots; cut them into dice. Pare and cut the potato. Slice the onion. Put the butter into a frying pan; throw in the vegetables, and shake until they are a golden brown; then throw them into a kettle; cover with boiling water; add the bay leaf, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Press through a puree sieve. Return to the kettle; add the kitchen bouquet, the salt and pepper. Pour this into the tureen over a dozen cheese balls, and serve at once. SOUPS WITH MILK CREAM of ASPARAGUS SOUP 1 bunch of asparagus 1 pint of water 1 slice of onion 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 quart of milk 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the tops from the asparagus and throw them into cold water. Cut the remaining portion of the bunch into small pieces; add the water; cover the kettle and stew gently for a half hour; press through a colander. Turn this into a double boiler; add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together. Take a little milk from the boiler; add it to the butter and flour, and keep on rubbing and adding until you have a paste. Now turn it all into the double boiler, and cook, stirring constantly until it is the thickness of cream. While this is cooking throw the tops into a little salt water; add a bay leaf, and cook carefully for fifteen minutes; drain, throw them into the cream soup, add salt and pepper and serve at once. Asparagus contains a peculiar acid which easily separates hot milk; hence the curdled appearance if it stands. CREAM of CORN SOUP 6 ears of corn A slice of onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of milk 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the milk in a double boiler with a bay leaf and the onion. Score each row of grains down through the centre; press out the pulp of the corn, leaving the husk on the cob, and add it to the milk. Remove the onion and bay leaf. Rub together the butter and flour; add a little of the soup to make a paste. Turn it all into the double boiler; stir constantly for about ten minutes; add salt and pepper, and serve at once. CREAM of GREEN PEA SOUP 2 quarts of green peas 1 quart of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 quart of water 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 bay leaf A small slice of onion Shell the peas. Wash the pods and put them into a kettle; cover them with the water; simmer gently for fifteen minutes; drain, saving the water; to this add the peas, the onion, bay leaf, and cook fifteen minutes; press through a colander; add the milk. Put over the fire in a double boiler. Rub the butter and flour together, add the soup from the double boiler a little at a time, and when smooth turn it back into the boiler, scrape out the bowl, and stir constantly until thick and creamy (about ten minutes); add the salt and pepper; press through a fine sieve and send at once to the table. There is no harm in re-heating. CREAM of PEA SOUP FROM CANNED PEAS This may be made according to the preceding recipe by simply pressing the peas through a colander. Heat the milk in a double boiler, add the onion and bay leaf; add the peas and the thickening, and finish as directed. SOUP CRéCY Save the water in which cabbage, cauliflower or Brussels sprouts has been boiled, and put it aside for soup Crécy. Into each quart grate two medium sized carrots that have been well scraped and washed. Stand it on the back part of the stove to simmer for one hour, then add a teaspoonful of grated onion, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and one table-spoonful of butter and flour rubbed together; bring to boiling point; add a pint of milk, heat and serve at once. CREAM of POTATO SOUP 4 medium sizedpotatoes 1 slice of onion 1 stalk ofcelery or a saltspoonful of celery seed 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 quart of milk 1 bay leaf A sprig of parsley 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare the potatoes , drop them into boiling water and boil rapidly five minutes. Drain, throwing the water away. Return them to the kettle; cover with a pint of water, add the onion, bay leaf, celery and parsley. Cover the kettle, and cook until the pota-toes are tender; press through a colander, using the water and all. Put into a double boiler, add a quart of milk. Rub together the butter and flour; add a little of the soup until you have a smooth paste; then turn it all into the boiler; stir until the mixture thickens-not a moment longer; add the salt and pepper; press through a fine sieve, re-heat and serve at once. This soup may be kept warm in a double boiler for ten minutes, but cannot be reboiled. ARTICHOKE SOUP 3 good-sized globe artichokes 1 quart of milk 1 bay leaf 3 level tablespoonfuls of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash and trim the artichokes; throw them into boiling water and simmer carefully for forty-five minutes. Take from the fire, drain, pull to pieces, and press, as much as possible, through a colander. Put the milk on a double boiler, add the artichoke pulp and the bay leaf. Rub together the butter and flour, adding a little of the milk to make a paste. Then turn the whole into a double boiler; stir constantly until it is the thick-ness of cream; add the salt and pepper, and take from the fire. Serve with egg balls, or chicken force meat balls. PALESTINE SOUP 1 pound of Jerusalem artichokes(about ten) 1 blade of mace 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of milk 1 slice of onion 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare and slice the artichokes and throw them at once into cold water. Drain; put them into the soup kettle; cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender (about thirty minutes); drain, and press them through a colander. Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler; add the artichokes, the bay leaf, onion, mace; cover the boiler. Rub together the butter and flour, add a little of the hot mixture to make a smooth paste, then turn it into the double boiler, and stir continually until you have a smooth, rather thick soup; add the salt and pepper, and press through a fine sieve. Re-heat and serve with toasted bread. Cut the bread into cubes of two inches, put one in the centre of each plate, and ladle over the hot soup. CREAM of RICE SOUP 1/2 cup of rice 2 stalks ofcelery or a salt-spoonful of celery seed 1 quart of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1/2 a good-sized onion 1 bay leaf 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the rice thoroughly; throw it into a quart of boiling water; boil rapidly for ten minutes and drain. Put it into the double boiler with the milk. Cover and cook slowly for thirty minutes. While this is cooking cut the onion into slices; cook it carefully with half the butter in a frying pan. The onion must be perfectly tender but not brown; add the celery and the bay leaf. When the rice is tender, press it through a colander; add the mixture from the frying pan; return it to the double boiler, add the remaining tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. Press through a fine sieve, and serve at once. MOCK BISQUE SOUP 1 quart of milk 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoonful of baking soda 1 pint of strained stewed tomatoes or a pint of canned tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 blade of mace A teaspoonful of sugar 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt Put the tomatoes into a saucepan with the bay leaf and mace. Cover and stand on the back part of the stove for fifteen minutes. Put the milk in a double boiler. Rub the butter and flour together, soften it with a little of the milk, then add it to the hot milk, and stir constantly until it is of a creamy thickness. Strain the tomatoes into a soup tureen; add the sugar and soda, and pour in quickly the hot milk; stir lightly and serve immediately. This soup must not be cooked after the milk and tomatoes are mixed; the acid of the tomato will curdle the milk, spoiling the flavor and appearance of the soup. If you are not ready to serve the soup immediately, keep the tomatoes hot in one place the milk in a double boiler, and mix them at the last moment, always adding the soda just before you pour the milk into the tomato. CREAM of TURNIP SOUP 1 pound of turnips 1 quart of milk 1 small onion 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 pint of stock or water A bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of epper Pare and grate the turnips; add the stock or water, the bay leaf, onion and pepper; cook gently for twenty minutes; add the milk. Rub together the butter and flour; add a little of the soup to make a smooth paste; then turn the whole into the saucepan, and stir constantly until it just reaches boiling point; add the salt, and serve at once. Mutton stock may be used. CREAM of SPINACH SOUP 2 quarts of spinach 1 quart of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the leaves from the spinach; wash thoroughly through several cold waters; throw them into a perfectly dry soup kettle that has been slightly heated; push it over the fire, and stir constantly for fifteen minutes until the spinach is wilted and cooked. Drain, saving the water, which should be at least a half pint. Chop the spinach very, very fine, press it through a sieve, and return it to the water; add the grated onion. Put it into a double boiler with the milk. Rub the butter and flour together add a little of the milk mixture to make a smooth paste. Pour the whole into the boiler, scrape out the bowl; stir constantly until creamy; add the salt and pepper, and serve at once. CREAM of LETTUCE SOUP Lettuce may be substituted for spinach, using two good-sized heads. CREAM of CELERYSOUP 4 heads of celery, or you may use the green outside parts of celery sufficient to make a quart 1 pint of water 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 slice of onion 1 quart of water 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 bay leaf Wash the celery; put it into a kettle with the water; cover and cook below the boiling point until the celery is very tender (about thirty minutes). Press through a colander. Put this with the milk in a double boiler, add the onion and bay leaf. If you wish to intensify the flavor, add a saltspoonful of celery seed. Rub the butter and flour together; add a little of the milk to make a smooth paste; scrape out the bowl into the boiler; stir constantly until creamy; add salt and pepper. Strain through a sieve, and serve at once. Onion must be used very sparingly in celery soup, as it easily overpowers the delicate flavor of the celery. CREAM of BEET SOUP 4 new beets (one pound) 1 tablespoonful of arrow-root or cornstarch 1 slice of onion 1 blade of mace 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 quart of milk 1 pint of water 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape and grate the beets into water; cover and cook slowly for twenty minutes. Put one tablespoonful of butter into a frying pan; add the onion; cook until the onion is soft. Put it in a double boiler with the milk, bay leaf and mace; now add the beets. Moisten the cornstarch or arrow-root in a little cold water, add it to the milk, cook until creamy, add the salt and pepper and press through a fine sieve. Stir in the remaining tablespoonful of butter, and serve at once. CREAM of CHEESE SOUP 1/4 pound of soft American cheese 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of flour Yolks of two eggs 1 teaspoonful of salt Put the milk in a double boiler; add the cheese, cayenne, salt, onion juice and the Worcestershire. Rub the butter and flour together; add a little of the milk mixture. When you have a smooth paste, scrape the whole into the double boiler; stir carefully until thick and smooth. Beat the yolks of the eggs with about two tablespoonfuls of milk; put them into the tureen, pour over the hot soup, and serve with squares of toasted bread. Large croÛtons, almost the entire slice of bread, may be toasted crisp to the very centre, and one placed in each soup plate and the hot soup dished over them. This forms a delightful luncheon soup for children, as it contains much nourishment- milk, egg, cheese, as well as the carbonaceous foods, flour and butter. CREAM of CHESTNUT SOUP 1 pound of chestnuts A piece of celery A sprig of parsley 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt A slice of onion A bay leaf A dash of paprika 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 pint of milk Shell and blanch the chestnuts; cover them with a quart of boiling water; add the onion and celery chopped, the bay leaf, parsley and paprika; cover and boil gently for thirty minutes. Press through a colander; return to the kettle; add the milk. Allow this to come slowly to boiling point while you rub together the butter and flour, adding a little of the mixture to make a paste; then turn it into the kettle, stir and cook for just a moment; add the salt; press the whole through a fine sieve; re-heat and serve with croÛtons. CREAM of PEANUT SOUP 1 quart of milk 1 teaspoonful of grated onion or onion juice A tablespoonful of cornstarch A dash of paprika 1/2 pint of peanut butter A bay leaf A saltspoonful of celery seed or a little chopped celery 1/2 teaspoonful of salt A dash of white pepper Put the milk, peanut butter, onion and celery seed into a double boiler; stir and cook until hot. Moisten the corn starch in a little cold milk, add it to the hot milk, and stir until smooth and thick. Strain through a sieve; add the salt, pepper and paprika, and serve at once with croutons. CREAM OF ENGLISH WALNUT SOUP 1/2 pint of shelled English walnuts 1 pint of milk Yolk of one egg 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of water 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1 level tablespoonful of corn-starch 1 saltspoonful of pepper Blanch the walnuts; put them through the meat chopper, then cover them with the water, add the onion, salt and pepper; cook slowly for thirty minutes, and add the milk. Moisten the cornstarch in a little cold milk, add it to the hot milk, cook until smooth, and pour at once into the tureen over the well-beaten yolk of one egg. CREAM of OATMEAL SOUP 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 pint of cold cooked oatmeal A bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion Yolk of one egg 1 quart of milk 2 whole cloves 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the butter and onion into the soup kettle; shake for just a moment until the onion is slightly browned. Draw the kettle to one side, and let the onion soften; then add the oatmeal, milk, bay leaf cloves; stir until they reach boiling point; strain through a fine sieve, re-heat, add the salt and pepper, and pour while hot into the tureen over the beaten yolk of the egg. Or use one pint of stock and one pint of milk instead of all milk. SOUP SOUBISE 1 good-sized Spanish onion or 3 ordinary onions 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of cold water 2 tablespoonfuls of butter I quart of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper Peel and slice the onions; cover them with the water; add the salt, and simmer gently for twenty minutes; press through a colander, using the water. Put this into a double boiler; add the milk. Rub together the butter and flour, adding a little of the milk; then stir the whole in a double boiler until smooth and creamy; add the salt and pepper; strain again, re-heat, and send at once to the table. GERMAN GRUEL SOUP 4 tablespoonfuls of flour A sliced onion Yolks of two eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 pint of water 1 quart of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt A dash of cayenne Put the flour in a baking pan in the oven, watching and stirring it carefully until it is a golden brown. While this is browning, put into the saucepan the water and the sliced onion. By the time the flour has nicely browned, the onion will be quite soft. Press it through a colander; add the water gradually to the flour, mixing all the while. Cook until smooth and thick. Put the milk in a double boiler; when hot, add it gradually to the flour mixture; cook and stir for five minutes; add the salt, pepper and cayenne, and pour while hot into the tureen over the well beaten yolks of the eggs. Add at the very last moment a tablespoonful of butter cut into bits. CREAM of MUSHROOM SOUP 1/2 pound of mushrooms (Agaricus campestris) 1 level tablespoonful of cornstarch 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 quart of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the mushrooms and cut them into slices; put them with the butter into a saucepan; cover closely and cook slowly for twenty minutes; add the milk, salt and pepper. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk; add it to the hot mixture; stir constantly until the soup is of the consistency of thin cream; serve at once, with pulled bread. CREAM of SALSIFY SOUP 12 roots of salsify 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1 pint of water 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape the salsify, throwing them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration; cut into thin slices, and put into a sauce -pan with the water and onion; cover and cook slowly for twenty minutes; add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together; add a little of the milk, making a smooth paste; then turn the whole into the kettle; stir constantly until it just reaches the boiling point; add the salt and pepper, and serve at once with oyster crackers. A small bit of salt codfish boiled with the salsify greatly improves the flavor. SOUPS FROM WHITE STOCK The white stock, so frequently referred to in cookery books, is made from veal or chicken alone, or a mixture of veal and chicken. This stock is never used alone as a foundation for soup, but is substituted for water in the making of cream soups. For instance, instead of covering celery with water to cook for a cream soup, cover it with white stock, which, being rich in gelatin, gives body to the soups. One rarely ever has to buy material for white stock; the skeletons of chickens and turkeys may be cracked, and covered with cold water, simmered gently for two hours, strained and put aside. If fresh material, how-ever, is considered preferable, a knuckle of veal is best. These sell in the markets at ten to twenty-five cents, according to the locality. One knuckle, well cracked, will make two quarts of stock, three quarts of water being added at first. Veal stock is, as a rule, used for the foundation of pepper -pot; chicken stock is, however, much better. Wipe the knuckle carefully; remove the meat from the bone. Put the bone into the kettle and the meat on top; cover with three quarts of cold water; bring to boiling point, and skim. Push back where it will simmer gently for two hours; then add a bay leaf, a small carrot sliced, one onion with twelve cloves stuck into it, a sprig of parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; simmer one hour longer; strain and stand aside to cool. When cold, remove the fat from the sur-face, turn out the soup (which is now a solid jelly) and remove all the sediment from the bottom. The stock may be placed aside to be used when needed. DUMPLING BROTH 1 quart of white stock 1 level teaspoonful of salt 50 suet balls (page 55) 1 saltspoonful of pepper Heat the stock to boiling point; add the dumplings, salt and pepper; boil for ten minutes and serve. SOUP NORMANDY 1 knuckle of veal 6 ounces of bread freed from crust 1 small carrot 1 saltspoonful of celery seed or a few celery tops 1/2 pint of milk 3 quarts of cold water 1 onion 1 bay leaf A piece of turnip 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wipe the veal with a damp cloth. Remove the meat from the bone; put the bone into the soup kettle; put the meat on top; add the water; bring to soup kettle; put the meat on top; gently for two hours. Lift out the meat carefully, and stand it aside to cool; add the bread, onion (sliced) and carrot (whole), and all the other seasonings. Cover the kettle, and simmer for one hour. Strain the soup; remove the carrot and put it aside; you will not need it for this dish. Press the bread and onion through a fine sieve, re-heat and add the milk and butter This is one of the nicest of all the thick soups. The veal that has been taken from the stock may be used for curry of veal boudins or pressed veal. SORREL SOUP 1 pint of sorrel 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 small onion 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of white stock 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch or arrow-root 1 saltspoonful of pepper Yolk of one egg Wash the sorrel carefully; throw it into a hot kettle; stir over the fire until it is thoroughly wilted; drain, and chop fine; then press it through a sieve. Put into the soup kettle the butter, and add the onion sliced. Push it to the back part of the stove where the onion will soften without browning. Add the sorrel and stock; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Add the cornstarch or arrow-root moistened in about four tablespoonfuls of milk; cook until smooth; add the salt and pepper, and pour while hot into the tureen over the well beaten yolk of the egg. SOUP à la SAP 1 1/2 quarts of veal stock 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of butter A grating of nutmeg 1/2 pound of white potatoes 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1 pint of peas 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the stock with all the seasonings and the peas over the fire; cook gently for twenty minutes; press through a sieve, return the fire, and when boiling add hastily the potatoes that been pared and grated; stir until it reaches the boiling point; draw to the back part of the stove, and simmer for ten minutes. This soup will have much the same consistency as gumbo; it should be as thick as ordinary purée, and served with croÛtons. MOCK TURTLE SOUP 1 calf 's head 1 calf 's heart 1 carrot 1 turnip 4 quarts of cold water 1 tablespoonful of mushroom catsup 2 teaspoonfuls of kitchen bouquet 1 lemon 1 pound of calves ' liver 1 bay leaf 1 onion 12 whole cloves 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of Worcester-shire sauce 2 hard boiled eggs 2 level teaspoonfuls of salt (If you use it) 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry Have the butcher unjoint the jaws and crack the head into halves; wash it thoroughly through several cold waters; then with a sharp knife remove the skin from the head. Singe the ears thoroughly; scald until it is thoroughly blanched. Put the head into the soup kettle; add the heart and liver that have been thoroughly washed; cover with the cold water; bring to boiling point and skim. Now add the skin; cover the kettle and simmer gently three hours; add all the seasoning, sticking the cloves into the onions. Simmer one hour longer; strain. Cut the skin into squares of about a half inch. Put the butter into another saucepan; add the flour; mix carefully and add the soup. When this has reached boiling point, add the mushroom catsup the Worcestershire sauce, the kitchen bouquet, and salt; then add the skin and bring slowly to boiling point. Cut the egg into slices; put it into the tureen with the lemon, cut into slices and then into quarters, add the wine. Pour over the soup, and serve. The tongue, heart, liver and meat of the head will be saved for other dishes. A GROUP OF CHICKEN SOUPS It seems a great extravagance to boil a chicken for soup; better select a fowl of a year and a half or two years, truss it neatly, and serve it as boiled fowl with rice for dinner, save the water in which it was boiled to use for noodle or rice soup next day. In boiling meat, we use boiling water. In making soup, we invariably use cold water; here a weaker soup will result, because the chicken must be covered with boiling water to retain the flavor and make it palatable; but we have the addition of starchy food. After the chicken is trussed, put it into the soup kettle; cover with boiling water; bring to boiling point; push it to the back part of the stove to simmer for an hour and a half. Add an onion, a bay leaf, a saltspoonful of celery seed, a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. When the chicken is done, remove it, and allow the stock to simmer until it is reduced one-third. After the chicken has been served, crack the carcass; put it back into the kettle and cook it another hour. Strain and stand it aside. To make noodle soup, cook in this broth two ounces of noodle; rice soup, four tablespoonfuls of rice. SOUP à la REINE 1 3 1/2 pound chicken 1/2 pint of cream 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed 1 medium sized onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 3 quarts of cold water 4 ounces of bread freed from crust A bay leaf 1 small carrot 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper This is one of the most elegant of all the thick soups. Clean and truss the chicken; put it into the soup kettle with the water; bring to boiling point and skim. Simmer gently until the chicken is perfectly tender, about two and a half hours. Then remove the chicken, and boil the stock rapidly for thirty minutes. Add the bread, onion, carrot, bay leaf, celery, salt and pepper; simmer gently for thirty minutes longer; press through a colander, then through a fine sieve, rejecting the carrot. Return this to the soup kettle. Chop the white meat of the chicken very fine; then rub or pound it to a paste; add a little of the soup until it is perfectly smooth; add the whole to the soup, and press again through a fine sieve. Rub the butter and flour together; add them to the soup; stir constantly until boiling, add the cream, and, when very hot, serve. ENGLISH CHICKEN SOUP The dark meat and carcass of one chicken 1/2 tablespoonful of kitchen bouquet or browning 1 teaspoonful of grated onion or onion juice A bay leaf 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper This soup is usually made from the "remnants" of chicken. Cut the dark meat of chicken into blocks, rejecting the skin and fat. Crack the bones, put them into a kettle; cover with two quarts of cold water; add the bay leaf and pepper, bring to boiling point, and simmer gently for one hour. Strain, put in back over the fire, and boil rapidly for thirty minutes or until reduced to a quart; now add the onion juice, bay leaf, the color-ing, the salt, and chicken blocks. When thoroughly hot, serve. This soup should be perfectly clear, and of an amber color. RICE PURéE This is made precisely the same as soup à la reine, substituting a half cup of rice for the given amount of bread. It may, also, be made without the white meat. CHICKEN BROTH WITH PEAS AND EGG DUMPLINGS Carcass of one chicken 2 quarts of cold water 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of green peas 1 head of lettuce 1 saltspoonful of pepper If you have had a roasted chicken for dinner, crack the bones, and put them with any bits that are left on the carcass into a kettle; cover with cold water, and bring to boiling point. Simmer gently for two hours, strain and stand aside. About an hour before the soup is to be served, boil the peas until tender; drain and press through a colander; add to them a teaspoonful of grated onion, a saltspoonful of salt, just a dash of pepper and two tablespoonfuls of white smooth bread crumbs. Break in one whole egg; mix thoroughly, and make into tiny balls; drop them into the hot soup; add the lettuce shredded; cover and stand where it will almost boil, for ten minutes. Add salt, and serve at once. GIBLET SOUP 2 sets of giblets 1/2 a lemon 1 level of teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of grated onion 2 hard boiled eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 saltspoonful of pepper Save the giblets from a pair of chickens with the rougher pieces like the neck and tips of the wings. Scald and skin the feet; crack them into several pieces. Put all into a soup kettle; cover with two quarts of cold water and simmer gently for two hours; then add the salt and pepper. Strain the soup and remove the giblets; cut them into neat pieces; return them to the soup; add a teaspoonful of grated onion juice, and the kitchen bouquet. Cut the eggs and lemon into thin slices, put them into the tureen; pour over the soup, and serve at once. Bay leaf and celery may be added to the stock, if desired. GUMBOS OF OKRA AND FILéE Under this heading, we give one of the most delightful of all soups. The filée powder is made from the tiny leaves of the sassafras --the first that comes out in the spring. Dry quickly, powder and press through a sieve. Being rich in mucilage, it adds to the thickening as well as the flavor of the soup. A gumbo is really not a true gumbo unless it contains filée powder. These soups also contain okra, another vegetable rich in mucilage, giving them distinct characteristics of their own. They may be made from ordinary chicken or white stock, or use turkey or game as a foundation. A half pint of cold roasted chicken with the carcass of the chicken will make sufficient gumbo for six persons. Crack the bones of the carcass; put them into the soup kettle with two quarts of cold water; bring to boiling point, skim, and push the kettle back where it will simmer for about two hours. Chop the meat very, very fine, and pound or rub it to a paste. Strain the stock, add it gradually to the meat; put back over the fire; add a pint of okra that has been washed and cut into rings, and two peeled tomatoes that have been cut into halves and the seeds pressed out. Cook for one hour. Add a tablespoonful of filée , a level teaspoonful of salt, a half cup of green corn that has been scored and pressed from the cob, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Boil five minutes, and serve with plain boiled rice in a separate dish. CHICKEN GUMBO WITH OYSTERS 1 young chicken 1 good-sized tomato A bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 quart of green okra 25 oysters 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Draw the chicken, and cut it up as for a fricassee. Put into the soup kettle the two tablespoonfuls of butter; when hot (not brown) throw in the chicken and shake until the chicken is browned. Draw to one side, and add the okra that has been washed and cut into slices. Cook slowly with the chicken and butter over a mild fire for ten or fifteen minutes; then add two quarts of boiling water, the tomato cut into slices, and the bay leaf; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently for one hour or until reduced to a quart and a pint; now add the oysters, salt and pepper; bring to boiling point, and serve with carefully boiled rice. The rice is usually passed, allowing each one to put a spoonful into the gumbo. MUTTON SOUPS The soups of this group are usually made with barley, and are known in many cookery books as Scotch broths. For the stock, select the necks of mutton, as they contain a large amount of albumin, have about the right proportion of bone and meat, and are economical. SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH Purchase a neck of mutton, wash it well in cold water, and cut it into bits. Put it into the soup kettle with two quarts of cold water, bring to boiling point, and skim; simmer for one and a half hours. Add an onion, turnip, celery, carrot, bay leaf and pepper; cover and simmer one hour longer; strain and add salt and pepper. BARLEY BROTH Add to the preceding recipe, after the broth has been skimmed, four tablespoonfuls of washed pearl barley, and finish as directed. MUTTON BROTH WITH RICE Strain plain mutton broth; add to it six tablespoonfuls of rice; boil for thirty minutes and serve. SCOTCH LEEK SOUP Strain two quarts of mutton broth; add to it twelve nice leeks chopped fine, white and green together, and a half pint of rolled oats; simmer for one hour; press the whole through a fine sieve; return it to the fire; add a palatable seasoning of salt, and pour it into the tureen over the well-beaten whites of two eggs. COCKIELEEKIE 1 fowl 2 quarts of water 1/2 pound of prunes Yolks of two eggs 1 pound of beef marrow bones 2 dozen leeks 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Purchase the marrow bone from the round; have the butcher saw it into two-inch lengths, making four bones. Draw and truss the fowl; put it into a soup kettle; cover with cold water, bring to boiling point and skim. Add the marrow bones, the bay leaf and pepper; simmer gently for one hour. Add the leeks, neatly trimmed; simmer one hour longer. Add the prunes which have been soaked in water over night, and the salt; bring again to boiling point, and it is ready to serve. Remove the strings from the chicken, dish it in the centre of a large platter, put the prunes around, garnish the edge of the dish with carefully boiled rice, the marrow bones, and the leeks. Strain the soup into a tureen over the well beaten yolks of the eggs, and serve with squares of toasted bread. Serve egg sauce with the chicken. This dish takes the place of both meat and soup. FISH SOUPS BOUILLABAISSE 1 gill of sweet oil 2 cloves of garlic 1 1/2 pounds of halibut A bay leaf 2 thin slices of lemon 1 lobster or a half dozen crawfish 2 medium sized onions 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 1/2 pound of haddock 1 dozen clams or oysters 2 cloves 1 tomato 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the oil into a kettle, add the onions, chopped fine, and the garlic, mashed. Shake until a golden brown; add the fish, washed and cut into slices, the bay leaf, clove, lemon, tomato -?peeled, cut into halves with seeds pressed out-?and the salt and pepper. Cover the kettle, and cook slowly for twenty minutes, add a quart of boiling water, bring to a boil and skim. Add the oysters and chopped parsley. Have ready boiled and hot the lobster, break off the claws, crack and take out the meat in one piece. Remove the tail meat and cut it into two long pieces. Dish the fish neatly on a platter, putting the oysters around the edge; place the lobster on top in the centre and sprinkle over a little chopped parsley. Add to the soup in the kettle a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet and pour it over six large croÛtons in a deep dish. To make the croÛtons, cut slices of bread one inch thick, remove the crusts and toast the bread in the oven until crisp to the centre and brown; stand them in the dish, one overlapping the other. To serve, put in the soup plate first a croÛton, then a piece of fish and one of lobster, some oysters, then a ladleful of soup. This is eaten with a spoon and takes the place of both soup and fish. COURT BOUILLON 1 tablespoonful of sugar 4 pounds of fish 1 bay leaf 1 saltspoonful of celery seed or a few celery tops 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 onion 3 quarts of cold water 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 small carrot 1 turnip 2 saltspoonfuls of pepper Wash the fish; clean and cut it into slices, using both head and tail. Put the sugar into the soup kettle, add the sliced onion, and stir until the onion is burned; then add the cold water, and put in the fish; add all the seasoning except the salt; bring to boiling point, skim and simmer gently for two hours; add the salt; strain, and stand aside to cool. There is rarely ever any fat to take from the surface, hence it may be strained and used at once. This stock will not keep like that made from beef. It may be served plain or with croÛtons, or it may have added at the last moment before serving, a few boiled shrimps, a few bits of lobster, or crabs, or oysters. CREAM of FISH SOUP The following recipe will answer for all kinds of fish; for instance, if one wants a halibut soup, buy the given quantity of halibut; for salmon soup, the given quantity of salmon, and so on, using exactly the same proportions. 1 pound of fish 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter A sprig of parsley 1 quart of milk 1 small onion 1 bay leaf Salt and pepper to taste Wash the fish; put it into a saucepan; add the bay leaf, parsley and onion. Cover with a pint of cold water; bring quickly to boiling point; skim, and simmer fifteen minutes; strain. Take the fish carefully from the colander; remove the skin and bone, and mash with the back of a spoon, adding, gradually, the water. Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler. Rub the butter and flour together; add a little of the hot milk; when smooth, turn it into the double boiler, and cook until you have a smooth, creamlike mixture. To this add gradually the fish; add the salt and pepper, and when thoroughly heated, serve. CLAM BOUILLON 25 clams 1 level tablespoonful of butter 1 bay leaf 1 quart of water 1 small onion 1 saltspoonful of celery seed 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrub the shells of the clams and rinse them well. Put them into a soup kettle with the water; bring quickly to the boiling point; take from the fire; remove each clam from the shell, being careful to save the liquor as you take them out. Chop the clams; return them to the kettle; add the bay leaf, celery and onion. Cover and simmer gently for thirty minutes; skim and strain. Re-heat; add the butter and it is ready to serve. A pint of milk may be added, if desired. The mixture cannot be boiled after the milk is added or it will curdle. CLAM SOUP 50 clams 1 quart of water 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1/2 dozen Bent's crackers, rolled or 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 pint of milk Drain the clams. Put the liquor on to boil. Chop the clams and add them. Simmer fifteen minutes; skim; add the water, and simmer five minutes longer. If you add crackers, roll and add them now with the milk. If you use flour, rub the butter and flour together and stir it carefully into the mixture. Bring to boiling point; add the milk; take from the fire and serve at once. If this is strained, it may be served in cups under the name of clam bisque. OYSTER BOUILLON 25 oysters 1/2 tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 quart of water 1 saltspoonful of celery seed, or one head of celery, chopped Wash the oysters; drain them in a colander; throw them into a very hot kettle over the fire; shake, and when the oysters have partly seared, drain them, saving the liquor. Chop the oysters; return them to the liquor; put into a double boiler; add the water, the celery seed, or celery and pepper, and cook slowly thirty minutes. Strain; add the salt, and serve at once. OYSTERSOUP 50 oysters 1 quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 pint of water 1 dozen whole pepper corns 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the oysters into a colander to drain; then pour over a pitcher of cold water; throw them into a hot kettle; add the pepper corns ; shake for a moment; cover the kettle and stand on the back part of the stove for ten minutes. Now add the water. Rub the butter and flour together; add a little of the soup to make a smooth paste; add this and the milk, and stir constantly until it almost reaches the boiling point and is slightly thickened; add the salt and pepper, and it is ready to serve. CAUTION.?-Do not allow the mixture to boil, as it destroys the flavor and tenderness of the oysters and curdles the soup; be careful, however, that the oysters are thoroughly heated. BISQUE OF LOBSTER 1 good-sized hen lobster (about 3 pounds) 1/2 saltspoonful of mace 1 tablespoonful of butter 4 ounces of bread 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the lobster in cold water, and plunge it into water nearly boiling hot; boil for twenty minutes, take out, throw the water away, add two quarts of fresh boiling water and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. Remove the lobster, saving the liquor in which it was boiled. Twist off the small claws; smash, and throw them back into the stock. Remove the meat from the tail; smash the tail shell, and put it back into the stock. Take the meat from the body, putting the green fat or liver by itself and also the coral. Melt the butter; take the small pieces of lobster meat, and pound them in a mortar, adding gradually the butter. Strain the lobster liquor, add it gradually to this pounded mixture; then add the bread that has been dried and toasted. Boil five minutes; press through a colander; return to the kettle over the fire, boil gently for five minutes; add the coral that has been rubbed to a paste with the fat or " liver " of the lobster, also a portion of the lobster meat cut into blocks; add the salt, pepper and mace, and serve. The meat from the claws and the tail being the better portions, may be used for salad or à la Newburg and the meat from the body only pounded up for the bisque of lobster. Serve with large croÛtons, one being placed in each soup plate, and the bisque ladled over. BISQUE OF LOBSTER à la COLBERT This is made precisely the same as in the preceding recipe, a poached egg for each person being added at the last moment; croÛtons are omitted. BISQUE OF CRABS Make exactly the same as bisque of lobster, using six good-sized crabs. One pint of CRAWFISH or SHRIMPS may be used in the same manner. GREEN TURTLE SOUP The day before you intend to use the soup, kill a ten pound turtle by cutting off the head with a very sharp knife. Hang the turtle up by the tail that it may properly bleed. Separate the upper from the lower shell, being careful not to cut the gall bladder . Cut the meat from the breast in slices; remove the gall and the entrails and throw them away. Separate the fins as near the shell as possible, and abstract the green fat, which save with the white meat in a separate dish. Put the upper and lower shells in a large kettle; put over sufficient cod water to cover (four quarts); simmer gently until you can easily remove the bones. Scrape all the gelatin adhering to the shell and save it in a separate dish. Put into a soup kettle the head, fins , liver, lights, heart and all the flesh, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, ten whole cloves, two bay leaves, a bunch of pot-herbs, an onion sliced and two tablespoonfuls of parsley. Cover with the liquor in which the shells were boiled, and simmer gently until the meat is thoroughly done. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve; stand it on the side of the stove while you cut the meat into squares of one inch. Put into a separate sauce -pan four ounces of butter; add an onion, chopped fine; cook until tender; then add one pint of Madeira; and bring slowly to simmering point. Now add four tablespoonfuls of browned flour, and the liquor that has been strained from the other materials; skim; then add the fat, the gelatin and the meat and a dozen hard boiled eggs, chopped fine. At serving time add the juice of a dozen green limes and a teaspoonful of cayenne. Warm gently, add wine and serve. SNAPPER SOUP Secure one good-sized snapper, which kill precisely the same as the green turtle. It must be killed the day before it is to be cooked. After the snapper has been thoroughly bled, wash it well in cold water; throw it into boiling water, boil fifteen minutes. Take it from the water, separate the upper and under shells carefully, keeping your knife close to the shell, and remove the meat entire. Open carefully, remove the bladder and intestines. Cut the gall carefully from the liver. Break the shell, put it in the bottom of the soup kettle, place on top the meat, cover with two quarts of boiling water; add two bay leaves, one onion sliced, four cloves, a few whole peppercorns, or a saltspoonful of white pepper. Cover and simmer gently for one and a half hours, or until the meat is tender. Remove the nicest pieces of the meat, and put them aside for stewed snapper. Cut the remaining meat into dice, using one-half of the liver. Strain the soup. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter, and one of flour; add the soup; stir until boiling and add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a drop of tobasco and a level teaspoonful of salt, and the meat. Cut into slices two hard boiled eggs and half of a lemon. Put these into the tureen with six tablespoonfuls of Madeira or sherry; pour over the soup and serve. CHOWDERS CLAM CHOWDER 50 clams 1/2 pound of bacon 1 pint of milk 1 teaspoonful of powdered thyme 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 pint of stewed or canned tomatoes 1 quart of white stock 6 water crackers or 3 sea biscuits 1 teaspoonful of sweet marjoram 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 3 medium sized potatoes 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the bacon into very thin slices; put it into the bottom of a good-sized saucepan. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice. Chop the clams, and roll the crackers. Put a layer of potatoes on top of the bacon; then a sprinkling of onion, thyme, sweet marjoram, parsley, salt and the tomatoes chopped; then a layer of the chopped clams; and continue the alternations until all of the materials have been used. Add the stock, which should barely cover the whole. Cover the saucepan; place it over a very slow fire and simmer for a half hour without stirring. While this is cooking, add the rolled crackers to the milk; then add them to the chowder. Cover; cook for ten minutes; stir the mixture carefully, and serve at once. CORN CHOWDER 1 quart of grated corn 1 pint of milk 1 pint of white stock 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 good-sized potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 3 tablespoonfuls of flour Yolk of one egg 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare and cut the potatoes into dice. Finely chop the onions. Put a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a sprinkling of onion and a dusting of salt and pepper; then a layer of corn, and so continue until all the materials are used, having the last layer corn; add the stock. Cover the saucepan and simmer over a moderate fire for twenty minutes. Rub the butter and flour together; add gradually to them the milk that has been heated in a double boiler; stir this into the boiling chowder; cook five minutes longer. Take from the fire; stir in the beaten yolk of the egg, and serve at once. FISH CHOWDER 1 pound of fish 3 medium sized potatoes 1 pint of stewed tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of powdered thyme 1 pint of milk 1 pint of water 1 large onion 1 saltspoonful of celery seed 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the fish; cut it into squares of one inch. Pare the potatoes and cut them into dice. Chop the onion. Put in the bottom of the kettle a layer of potatoes , then a layer of fish, then tomatoes, a sprinkling of onion, thyme, salt, pepper and celery seed, and so continue until the materials are used, having the last layer potatoes ; add the water. Cover the kettle closely, and cook, without stirring, over a moderate fire for twenty minutes. In the meantime, heat the milk in a double boiler; add it quickly and serve. The tomatoes may be omitted. POTATO CHOWDER 1 quart of milk 6 good-sized potatoes 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 good-sized onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare and cut the potatoes into dice, and chop the onion. Put a layer of potatoes in the bottom of a kettle; then a sprinkling of onion, parsley, salt and pepper; then another layer of potatoes , and so on until you have used the materials; add a pint of water. Cover the saucepan and cook slowly twenty minutes. Then add the milk; rub the butter and flour together; stir it carefully into the boiling chowder; and, when it reaches boiling point, serve. FISH ANALYSIS   Flounder (a white fish) Salmon (a pink or oily fish) Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.4 64.0 Fat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 12.2 Salts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.6 1.8 Nitrogenous matter . . . . . . . . 14.0 22.0 For table of fish in season see page 27 Fish belongs to the nitrogenous group of foods. Builds and repairs muscular flesh and tissues. Is digested principally in the stomach, proper. The chemical analysis of fish has not been sufficiently accurate to make a table of composition at all reliable. The albuminoid matter in white fish, as cod, haddock and halibut, is in about the same proportion as in beef and mutton. The ratio of water in fish, flesh and fowl is also quite uniform; fish contain, however, more phosphorus, the active fish, as trout and pickerel, containing the greater percentage. The amount of carbon depends largely upon the amount of fat the fish contain. White fleshed fish are, therefore, deficient in carbon. The fat is secreted and held in the liver. If you should ask an intelligent cook what vegetables to serve with boiled white fish, she would answer, potatoes and cucumbers or lettuce with French dressing, as they supply the wanting carbohydrates and fat. Pink fleshed fish, as salmon, catfish and sturgeon, have the fat dispersed throughout the body, and are in consequence more difficult of digestion, although alone they have a greater food value. From this we learn that the white fleshed fish are better for the delicate stomach, and that the dark or pink fish make a much better diet for the active man; and the more active fish will contain a greater amount of muscle-making food than their more indolent relations. Fish, on account of its density of fibre, would not be recommended as a frequent diet for brain workers. In foreign countries fish are caught in nets, kept alive in tanks of fresh water, weighed after they are purchased, and then killed. Under such circumstances fish are much more wholesome. Stale fish should be avoided, those kept in cold storage, as well as those frozen in blocks of ice. Better, by far, accept the fish that are in season during the different months of the year than to use one special sort, the year around. TO PURCHASE FISH Examine the flesh, which should be firm, the scales closely adhering and of brilliant color, the eyes and gills bright and the flesh free from any unpleasant odor. Fish are poisonous if stale. WHITE FLESHED FISH Heading this list stands cod, which being widely distributed along the northern coast, is easily accessible, hence its cheapness. The tongues, and sounds, the swimming bladders, are frequently used as a special dish. Isinglass is a gelatin or glue made from these swimming or air bladders. Cod liver oil is expressed from the cod's liver. Cod is an admirable boiling fish, and may be fried in slices or fillets, but is never used for baking. Haddock, closely allied to the cod, is less desirable on account of the enormous weight of the head, which is waste; and while it sells at a low price, is not always cheap. Both cod and haddock are to be had throughout the year, but are truly in season from October to June. Halibut is the largest fish coming to our market. Young halibut weighing from ten to fifteen pounds are sold whole under the name of "chicken halibut;" the larger halibut are cut into slices and sold at twenty-five cents per pound; being solid flesh, without waste, is economical. Flounders, admirable boiling fish, are flat, a little larger than the English sole, and are frequently served for the same. They have, however, coarser flesh, and are not so fine in flavor. These may be also made into fillets and fried or served au gratin. Perhaps next in order comes the white fish of the great lakes, one of our very best fish when used fresh from the water and when planked are much better and much more delicate than shad. They are also an exceedingly good boiling, baking or broiling fish. Along the coasts we have endless varieties of good fish blue fish, sheep's-head, weak fish, sea bass, porgies. All these may be planked, broiled, or boiled. Blue fish are exceedingly good when baked. As we go South on the coast, we find the red snapper, and along the Gulf, the pompano. This, without exception, is the king of all fish. When properly boiled it is free from the general odor and flavor of fish, tastes more like the most delicious young chicken. Red snapper is also a fine boiling fish, but too large for a small family. Spanish mackerel are best broiled. They are found also in the Southern waters, and command a much higher price than the ordinary blue, smooth skinned mackerel; the latter are usually salted. Mackerel are in season during the summer months, the best usually coming in from about the first to the middle of June. They keep in good condition until the first of September. Shad come from the sea up into the fresh water rivers for spawning early in the spring. Our first shad come from the southern waters in February or March; next from up the Susquehanna and Delaware. They are in season from the first of February until the middle of June. They are best planked; are very good, however, broiled, but should never be fried, as they already contain too much fat. Frying makes them more difficult of digestion. Bony fish, as herring and porgies, are usually rolled in egg and bread crumbs and fried. They are cheap, but very full of bones. Boneless salted herring makes an exceedingly nice relish for the beginning of a lunch. Eels and catfish, fish without scales, must be taken from exceedingly clean water to be wholesome. They are skinned, dipped in egg and bread crumbs and fried. Salmon, the most prized of all, is one of the pink fleshed fish, of fine flavor. It may be sliced and broiled, or planked; boiled whole or in slices, and served with sauce Hollandaise, is the most elegant of dinner fish. Cod's head and shoulders boiled is also a fine dinner dish. Next to this comes the rock or rock bass. Salmon, of course, is fine; but the white fleshed fish are preferable where heavy meats follow. BOILED FISH Wash well in cold water a nice fresh fish; wipe carefully, and rub with salt; wrap it in a cloth; drop it into a long baking pan or fish kettle half filled with boiling water; add a slice of onion, a bay leaf and a teaspoonful of salt; cover and simmer gently ten minutes to each pound. Lift carefully, drain and unfasten the cloth. Turn the fish over on to the serving platter, garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with boiled fish, plain boiled potatoes or potato balls , cucumbers or lettuce with French dressing and either shrimp or oyster sauce or sauce Hollandaise or plain drawn butter, in a sauceboat. Left over cold boiled fish may be made into cutlets, creamed fish, deviled fish, salad or croquettes. This recipe will answer for the boiling of all kinds of fish. BOILED SALMON STEAKS Have the steaks cut at least two inches thick and nicely cleaned. Wrap each one separately in a piece of cheesecloth. Have ready a large fish kettle or baking pan half filled with boiling water, to which you have added a slice of onion, a bay leaf, a blade of mace and four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. Put the slices in (they must be covered with the water ) and simmer gently twenty minutes. Lift them carefully, one at a time, and dish one slice "overlapping the other. Garnish with parsley and quarters of lemon, and serve with lobster sauce. Small HALIBUT STEAKS or small COD STEAKS may be boiled after the same fashion. Boiled Fish Page 98 An illustration of a Boiled Fish arranged on a Platter. Cod Fish Balls Page 101 An illustration of Cod Fish Balls. Halibut Steak à la Flamande Page 110 An illustration of a Halibut Steak Garnished with Different Things and Arranged on a Platter. FILLETS OF SALMON en PAPILLOTE Cut from the salmon, steaks about one inch thick; trim them nicely, brush them with two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of lemon juice that have been thoroughly worked together; put each in a heart-shaped piece of paper; fold over the edges' and place them in a baking pan. Bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Serve them in the papers and pass with them sauce Hollandaise. TO BOIL SALT COD Select large white boneless cod; cut it into convenient pieces for serving, wash it well in cold water; cover with fresh cold water and soak it over night. In the morning drain and cover again with fresh cold water. An hour before serving time put it into the kettle; pour over it boiling water; bring slowly to boiling point. Let it stand below boiling point for ten minutes. Lift carefully with a skimmer; dish neatly, and pour over English drawn butter, seasoned with lemon, or serve with tomato sauce. SALT CODFISH CREOLE STYLE 1 pound of boneless codfish 1/2 cup of rice 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1/2 can of tomatoes 1 onion 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash and soak the codfish over night, as in preceding recipe. When ready to serve, put the butter and onion in a saucepan; cover and cook on the back part of the stove until the onion is soft, not brown. Drain the codfish, add it and the rice which has been boiled for twenty minutes; pour over the tomatoes strained; cover the saucepan, and cook gently twenty minutes. When ready to serve add salt and pepper, push the rice aside and dish the fish first; put on top of it the rice, and pour over the sauce. This makes an economical and palatable dish for lunch. Fresh fish may be substituted for salt cod. CODFISH SOUFFLé 1/2 pound of salt cod 2 eggs 1 pint of mashed potatoes 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pick apart the fish; wash well in cold water; cover it with boiling water and let it stand for a half hour; drain and press dry. Have ready the mashed potatoes that have been beaten until light; stir in the codfish, add the pepper and the yolks of the eggs, and then fold in the well beaten whites. Put this into a baking dish and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown. Where fried things are objectionable, this soufflé will take the place of codfish balls. STEWED CODFISH 1/2 pound of salt codfish 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 quart of milk 2 medium sized potatoes 2 Bent's water crackers 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the codfish thoroughly; cover it with cold water and soak over night, or for several hours. When ready to use, cut it into small pieces; put it into a stewing pan with the potatoes pared and cut into blocks; cover with boiling water, and boil for ten minutes, drain, add the milk. Crush the crackers and add them as soon as the milk is thoroughly heated; then add the salt, pepper and butter. Serve this as a chowder. SALT COD IN CREAM SAUCE 1/2 pound of salt codfish 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Yolk of one egg 1 pint of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the cod; cover with cold water and soak it over night. Next morning pick it apart; cover it with boiling water; bring to boiling point and drain. Cover again with boiling water and cook slowly about ten minutes. Drain again. Put the butter and flour into a saucepan; mix until smooth; add the milk; stir until boiling; now add the codfish, salt and pepper. Stand it over hot water for twenty minutes; add the egg and serve at once. This, when served with cornbread or plain toast makes an admirable breakfast dish. Served in a border of mashed potatoes or with plain boiled potatoes , it is a nice supper or luncheon dish. CODFISH BALLS No. 1 1/2 pound of codfish 4 good-sized potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter Yolks of two eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Boil and mash the potatoes . Pick the codfish apart; scald it; drain; cover with cold water; bring to scalding point again. Do this three times; then press it dry and add to the potatoes ; add all the other ingredients. Mix thoroughly; form into balls a little larger than English walnuts; dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve plain or with tomato sauce. CODFISH BALLS No. 2 Prepare the codfish and potatoes as in preceding recipe; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and four tablespoonfuls of milk and cream. Beat thoroughly; form into balls or cakes; dip in egg, then in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat, or brown in a quick oven for fifteen minutes. Serve plain or with tomato sauce. When formed into cylinders or pyramids, these make CODFISH CROQUETTES. CODFISH WITH MACARONI 2 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of strained tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pound of salt cod 1 tablespoonful of onion juice 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Break the macaroni into two-inch lengths; throw it into the boiling water; boil rapidly for thirty minutes; drain; throw into cold water, and blanch for fifteen minutes; then cut pieces about a half inch long. Wash the codfish; cut blocks. It is better to have soaked over night . If you wish to use it in a hurry, cover it with cold water; bring to boiling point; drain, throwing away the water, and cover again. Do this three times, and it will be sufficiently fresh. Rub the butter and flour together, add the tomato; stir until boiling, and add the macaroni, fish, onion juice, salt and pepper. Mix until boiling; stand over the tea kettle or in hot water for thirty minutes, and it is ready to serve. TO FRY FISH Small fish are perhaps more palatable fried than boiled or broiled. They may be cooked in almost any sort of fat, as lard or a mixture of lard and suet, but are decidedly better when fried in oil. Perch, brook trout, catfish and smelts are all cooked in precisely the same manner. Wash in cold water; clean; wash again and immediately wipe dry inside and out. Handle with great care, or the fish will be bruised. Put sufficient oil into a deep frying pan to cover the fish. Beat an egg without separating; add a tablespoonful of hot water; dip the fish first in the egg, then roll in bread crumbs. Put a few at a time into the frying basket and sink them into the hot oil. Be sure to test the oil with a crumb of bread; if it browns in thirty seconds, it is sufficiently hot, 360° Fahr. As soon as the fish are browned and the outside crisp, lift carefully and drain on brown paper. Dish on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley and lemon. A very dainty way to fry smelts is to run four on a skewer, and dish them according to the diagram. TO CLEAN SMELTS Make a slight opening at the gills with either a sharp knife or a pair of scissors; then draw the smelt between the thumb, and finger, from the tail to the head. In this way all the intestines will be pressed out at the gill opening. Wash and dry; sprinkle with salt, and they are ready to dip and fry. FRIED HALIBUT Cut halibut steak into pieces two inches square; dip in beaten egg and roll in bread crumbs; fry in hot fat. Lay on brown paper to drain, and serve plain on a hot dish, or with sauce tartare. FILLETS OF FISH For this, use a white fish, rock or black bass. After the fish has been scaled and cleaned, put your hand firmly on the fish and with a sharp knife cut from the tail to the head just as near the bone as possible, removing all the flesh. Turn the fish on the other side and do the same thing. In this way you will remove all the bones. Cut the fish into strips all the way across, and about an inch wide. Roll and fasten with a wooden skewer. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat. Put a half dozen of these rolls in your frying basket and plunge them into the hot fat; they will quickly curl tighter, and will cook in about three minutes. Drain on brown paper; dust with salt; arrange on a napkin; garnish with parsley and lemon. FRICASSEE OF FISH For this, purchase one pound of black bass or yellow perch; wash, cut off the head and tail; cut the fish into slices about two inches wide. Into a saucepan put two tablespoonfuls of butter and one chopped onion; cover and cook until the onion is soft. If you like, you may add just a suspicion of garlic. Now put in the fish; cover the saucepan, allowing the fish to cook for about ten minutes. Pour over it one pint of strained tomatoes; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cook five minutes more, and serve. BAKED BLUE FISH This recipe will answer for all sorts of fish except carp. Have the fish opened at the gills, and the intestines drawn out through the opening. Make a stuffing of a half pint of bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Mix the ingredients, fill into the fish, and sew the head down firmly. If you use pork, cut the fish into gashes two inches apart and all the way across on one side down to the bone; fill the gashes with larding pork, dust he fish thickly with bread crumbs, baste it over with a little melted butter, put a half cup of water in the pan, and bake in a quick oven about one hour, basting frequently. Dish the fish carefully, using a long fish slice; garnish it with parsley and lemon, and serve with brown or tomato sauce. BAKED CARP Clean the carp as directed in preceding recipe. Wash the flesh all over with vinegar. Let it stand for fifteen or twenty minutes. Make a bread stuffing, fill it into the fish, sew the head down firmly. Brush the fish all over with egg, and dredge it thickly with bread crumbs, and put over it a few lumps of butter. Place the fish in a granite pan; add two chopped onions, a bunch of parsley and one cup of water mixed with one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. If you have anchovy sauce, add also a teaspoonful. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour, basting frequently. When the fish is done, lift it carefully on a serving dish and garnish. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add the liquor that is in the pan with sufficient boiling water to make a half pint; turn the whole back into the pan, cook for a moment, strain, add the juice of a lemon and a seasoning of salt and pepper, and serve in a sauceboat. BAKED COD'S HEAD Head and portion of the shoulders of cod 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1/2 pound of veal or chicken 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Trim and wash the fish. Chop the veal, adding to it the salt, pepper, parsley and onion juice; fill this into the fish, put into a baking pan, cover with buttered paper, add a half cup of water to the pan, and, if you use it, four tablespoonfuls of white wine. Run into a moderately hot oven and bake three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently. When the head is nearly done, remove the paper, baste with melted butter and dust thickly with browned bread crumbs. When done, dish, and serve with brown sauce in a boat. BROILED FISH This recipe will answer for the broiling of all kinds of fish Scale, and split the fish down the back, wash and dry it dust with salt and pepper. Put it on a wire broiler, folding over the thin middle portion so as to have the fish of an even thickness. Brush the flesh side with butter. Hold it near a perfectly clear fire until nicely browned; then turn, and brown the skin side. Then lift the broiler, either with a broiler stand or with a couple of bricks, at least six or eight inches from the fire, and broil slowly on the flesh side twenty minutes; then turn and broil on the skin side about ten minutes. Be careful not to burn. Baste it with butter, and serve at once. TO BROIL FISH IN A GAS STOVE Prepare the fish precisely the same as in the preceding recipe. Put under the flames an ordinary sheet or granite iron baking pan, and when very hot, grease it lightly with butter. Put the fish in skin side down; baste it with butter, dust lightly with salt and pepper, and put it under the flame in the broiling oven on the very bottom of the stove; when nicely browned, turn down the lights as low as possible, and broil slowly for thirty minutes. Dish; spread with butter; put over it a little lemon juice, and serve at once. TO BROIL FISH IN AN OIL STOVE Light the oven and allow it to get very hot. Prepare the fish as in first recipe. Put a long baking pan over a good strong flame; when hot, put in just a little suet or butter, and drop in the fish skin side down; baste it with butter, dust with salt and pepper Place it in the oven, on the upper grate near the top, and cook a half hour; baste once or twice with melted butter, and when brown, serve. If the manipulation is right, the fish will be almost as good as when broiled over coal or under the gas flame. A narrow heavy iron pan, or a narrow long asbestos mat on the lower shelf or grate of the oil stove, will drive the heat around the sides of the oven, and throw it down on top of the fish, and the fish will be browned on top the same as when broiled. ODD DISHES OF FISH BOILED CODS' TONGUES AND SOUNDS Wash the tongues and sounds; throw them into cold water, and soak over night; then drain, throw them into a kettle of boiling water and boil for ten minutes. When done, drain; dip them in melted butter and dust with salt and pepper. Put each on a narrow piece of toast; pour over cream or egg sauce, and serve. Cods ' tongues may also be dipped in egg and bread crumbs and fried in very hot fat; served plain or with tomato sauce. CURRIED FISH 1 pound of cold cooked fish 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 pint of water Juice of a lemon 2 good-sized onions 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of curry powder 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Chop the onions very fine; put them with the butter in a sauce-pan; cover, and when soft, add the curry, the flour and then the water or stock; stir until boiling and add the fish. Cover and stand on the back part of the stove for ten minutes. Add the lemon juice and seasoning, and serve in a border of carefully boiled rice. FISH CUTLETS 1 pint of cold cooked fish 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of grated onion 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Yolks of two eggs 1/2 pint of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 level teaspoonful of salt Dash of red pepper Put the milk over the fire. Rub the butter and flour together; add to the milk; stir until smooth and thick and add the yolks; add all the seasoning to the fish. Mix the sauce and fish carefully together; turn out to cool. When cold form into cutlet-shaped croquettes; dip in egg and bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Omit the eggs and make into pyramids or cylinders and you will have FISH CROQUETTES. FISH TIMBALE 1/2 pound of halibut or other white fish Whites of five eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of soft bread crumbs 1 gill of milk 6 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Put the uncooked fish twice through the meat chopper. Boil together, until you have a smooth paste, the milk and bread crumbs. When cold, add it gradually to the fish and press through a sieve; add the cream, salt and pepper, and fold in carefully the well beaten whites of the eggs. Grease small timbale molds with butter, and line the bottoms with paper, garnish with chopped truffle, mushrooms or green peas, or they may be used plain. Fill in the mixture; stand in a baking pan half filled with boiling water; cover the top with greased paper, and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Serve with cream, lobster, shrimp or oyster crab sauce. STUFFED TIMBALES These are made according to preceding recipe, filling the centre of each with creamed shrimp; serve with shrimp sauce. DEVILED FISH 1 pound of white fish 1 tablespoonful of butter 3 hard boiled eggs 1 tablespoonful of parsley 1/2 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Boil the fish and pick it apart in good-sized flakes. Rub the butter and flour together; add the milk and stir until boiling. Chop the eggs very fine or put them through a vegetable press; add parsley, salt and pepper; then fold in carefully the fish. Fill this into small shells?- clam or oyster shells will answer. When cool cover the top with beaten egg, dust with bread crumbs, being very careful to thoroughly cover the edges where the mixture and shell come together. At serving time put them a few at a time in a frying basket and plunge them into hot tat. Serve plain, or with cucumber sauce or sauce tartare. FISH à la CRèME 1 pound of fish 1 tablespoonful of butter Yolks of two eggs 1 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Boil the fish and pick it apart in large flakes. Rub the butter and flour together; add the milk; stir until boiling. Take from the fire; add the yolks of the eggs, the fish and seasoning. Stand over hot water until thoroughly heated; serve in a border of potato or rice. This may also be turned into a baking dish, covered with bread crumbs and browned quickly in the oven. CAUTION.-?If baked too long the egg will separate, giving the whole a curdled appearance. This may also be served in ramekins or small individual dishes. Omit the eggs from this recipe, and you will have PLAIN CREAMED FISH. PLANKED FISH For this select white fish or shad, although any white fleshed fish is good planked. Secure a plank the size of your oven, or one that will fit the underneath portion of your gas stove. In a gas stove, fish is planked in the broiling chamber. The plank must be at least one inch thick, a little wider than the fish, as long as the oven and composed of hardwood, as oak, hickory or ash. IN FRONT OF A WOOD FIRE Put the plank before the fire until very hot. Split the fish down the back; wash and wipe dry; baste with butter; dust with salt and pepper. Put the fish on the plank, skin side down, folding over the thin middle portion, bringing the two halves together. Drive two medium sized nails at the head of the fish and one at the tail. Rear it up in front of a good, clear, strong wood fire; baste occasionally with melted butter, and cook for at least a half hour until the fish is a good dark brown. Serve at once Planked Fish, putting on the garnish Page 108 An illustration of a Planked Fish being Garnished. Planked Fish, ready to serve Page 108 An illustration of a Planked Fish, ready to serve. on the plank; garnish with parsley and lemon. Cucumber or lettuce salad and creamed potatoes are the usual accompaniments. TO PLANK SHAD UNDER THE GAS STOVE Rub the board thoroughly with salt; put it under the gas to heat. As soon as it is heated, put on the fish, skin side do folding over the centre the same as in the preceding recipe baste with butter; dust with salt and pepper, and put it under the gas just as far from the flame as possible; keep the lights turned up rather high until the fish has taken on a good color then turn them down and cook slowly thirty minutes. Have ready pared four good-sized potatoes ; put them on at once to boil; when done mash, add a half cup of hot milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and beat until very light. Put them into a pastry bag, at the end of which you have a star tube. As soon as the fish has browned, remove it from the oven, and press the potatoes through the tube, making a circle of roses the entire round of the dish; put back into the oven, and allow the potatoes to brown; garnish with sprigs of parsley and lemon, and send at once to the table. TO PLANK FISH ON AN OIL STOVE When the oven is very hot, put in the board, putting down the side on which you are going to place the fish. When the board is very hot, place the fish on it the same as for a gas stove; then run it back into the oven on the upper grate, keeping the lights turned up full force. Put asbestos pads on the lower grate so that the heat will be driven around and on top of the board. Prepare potatoes as before; garnish and brown the same as in preceding recipe. TO PLANK FISH IN A COAL STOVE This will be done in precisely the same manner as with oil stove, in the general oven. Be sure the plank is very before placing the fish, and then put it as near the top of the oven possible. There is less danger of the board burning in a coal stove than in an oil stove; hence there is no necessity of protecting the bottom. HALIBUT STEAK à la FLAMANDE 1 good-sized halibut steak Yolk of one egg 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 chopped onion 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter Wash the steak and dry carefully with cheesecloth. Brush the bottom of an ordinary baking pan with a little butter; sprinkle it over with the chopped onion, on top of which place the steak. Beat the yolk of the egg and put it over the upper side of the steak; dust with salt, pepper, pour over the lemon juice, and the remaining portion of the butter cut into small bits. In a coal stove, run it into a very hot oven and bake thirty minutes. In a gas stove, put it in the oven for fifteen minutes, then underneath in the broiling chamber for fifteen minutes longer. When done dish carefully on a hot platter, garnish with lemon and parsley and serve with brown sauce made in the pan in which the fish was cooked. STURGEON 2 pounds of sturgeon 1 pint of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the fish into squares of two inches; put them into a stewing pan; cover with two quarts of boiling water; simmer gently fifteen minutes, and drain and throw away this water. This is done to extract the oil and strong flavor of the fish. Add to the saucepan the butter, salt and pepper. Moisten the flour gradually with the milk; strain it over the sturgeon; bring to boiling point and serve. Sturgeon may be broiled, panned or baked, but must always be parboiled first. EELS Eels may be stewed or fried or made into a sort of chowder. To stew them, skin, clean and cut off the heads, and then cut them into pieces two inches long. Put them into a stewing pan; cover with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of vinegar and simmer for ten minutes. Drain. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when melted add two tablespoonfuls of flour mix well, and add a pint of the water in which the eels were stewed. When boiling, add a tablespoonful of grated onion a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and the eels. Cover and stew gently for twenty minutes. Dish, dust thickly with chopped parsley and garnish with triangular pieces of toasted bread. JERUSALEM FISH BALLS Skin and pick all the flesh from the bones of a good-sized rock or haddock. Put the skin and bones with any bits that may have fastened themselves, into a kettle; cover with a quart of cold water, add a bay leaf, a slice of onion, a blade of mace, four cloves and two cloves of garlic mashed. Cover the saucepan and simmer gently one hour. While the mixture is cooking, chop the flesh of the fish very fine, add twenty-four blanched almonds, chopped, one clove of garlic, a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper and a quarter of a saltspoonful of mace. Mix well and form into balls the size of an English walnut. Strain the stock, return it to the saucepan and when it reaches the boiling point drop into it the fish balls. Draw the saucepan to one side of the fire, cover and let the balls cook slowly for twenty minutes. Lift the balls with a skimmer and stand at once in a very cold place. Beat six eggs until thoroughly mixed, add to them gradually the boiling stock, which should now measure about three-quarters of a pint. Stand the mixture over hot water and stir until thick and jelly-like. Jake from the fire, strain through a fine sieve and stand aside to cool. When slightly cool, add the juice of three lemons or the juice of two lemons and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. When ready to serve, roll each ball in this cold dressing Arrange in pyramid form in a dainty round dish; garnish nicely with quarters of lemon and parsley, and send to the table with the remaining sauce in a boat. TO CURE AND SMOKE FISH White fish, shad, mackerel and roe herring may all be cured after this same recipe. Scale and wash the fish quickly and wipe them perfectly dry. They must not be allowed to remain a moment in the water, or they will not keep. To each twenty pounds of fish allow one pint of good Liverpool salt, one pint of best brown sugar and an ounce of saltpetre; mix these well together. Rub the fish thoroughly inside and out with this mixture, and place them one on top of another on a perfectly clean board, on the top of which place another board holding a weight of at least ten pounds. Allow them to remain in a cold place for at least sixty hours; drain; wipe each one dry, stretch open and fasten with small crossed sticks. Smoke for five days. Where one has not a smoke house, a barrel or box may be used for the purpose. Remove both heads from an ordinary barrel; make in the bottom a smothered fire, using a few chips of hardwood; have the fish all ready to hang on sticks across the top when the fire is lighted; throw over a cover, and allow the fish to smoke. TO SALT FISH For this select salmon, shad, white fish or mackerel. Scale and clean the fish; wash and wipe them quickly. Make a brine sufficiently strong to float an egg, from good salt and boiling water. The water may be boiled and cooled, or you may add the salt to the boiling water and allow them to cool together. Put the fish into a perfectly clean cask; cover with the cold brine; put a small board on top holding a weight, to keep the fish under the brine. TO SPICE OR PICKLE FISH 10 pounds of fish 4 blades of mace 1 small onion 1 small red pepper 4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish 2 quarts of white wine vinegar 12 whole cloves 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of whole mustard 1/2 pint of boiling water Wash the fish in cold water; put into the kettle; cover with boiling water, add a tablespoonful of salt, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes to each pound of fish. Then drain, and stand aside in a cold place over night. In the morning remove the skin, and cut the fish into small convenient pieces. Put the vinegar and all the spices into a small porcelain lined kettle When it comes to the boiling point, add the fish, and simmer for just a moment. Lift each piece with a skimmer; arrange them carefully in glass jars; adjust the rubbers; fill the jars with the hot spiced vinegar, and screw on the tops. Stand aside in a cold place. Next day, wipe down the jars and give the tops an extra screw, or see that they are well fastened. If properly done, the fish will keep in a cold place for one year. This recipe will answer for sturgeon, halibut, salmon; in fact almost any kind of fish. FROGS The hind legs of frogs are the only part used as food. There is no objection to vising the entire fleshy part of the body; there is so little flesh, however, on the upper part that it is scarcely worth the cleaning. Cover them first with boiling water; allow them to stand for five minutes to blanch; drain, dry, and dust with flour. Put them in a frying basket and plunge it into hot fat. Oil, of course, is preferable for the frying. They may be served plain or with sauce tartare or cream sauce. FROGS à la POULETTE 1 dozen frogs 1/2 pint of white stock 1 tablespoonful of parsley 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt Yolk of one egg Trim the legs; cover them with boiling water and stand aside for fifteen minutes. Drain. Put the butter and flour into a saucepan; when smooth add the stock or milk stir until boiling, add the salt and pepper. Add the frogs legs; cover the saucepan and stand in a water bath or over hot water for twenty minutes. Take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of the egg and chopped parsley, and serve at once. CRUSTACEAE To this order belong the lobster, crabs, prawns and crawfish. All are placed in the nitrogenous group of foods, those which contribute to building and repair of the muscles and tissues. They are, however, very dense and difficult of digestion, and to be at all safe must be fresh and alive when cooked. If allowed to die, they are most dangerous. They must also be used soon after cooking. These as well as oysters are easily contaminated by ptomaines. TO KILL A LOBSTER Have ready a large kettle nearly filled with warm water. It is not necessary that the water be boiling; in fact, the lobster will die more quickly in warm than in boiling water. Hold the lobster upside clown, grasping him by the back; put his head, then his body under the water and quickly cover the kettle. He will die instantly. To broil a lobster take it from the water immediately, cut it into halves, remove the stomach and the intestine, and it is ready to broil, or follow directions given under Broiled Live Lobster. For salad, lobster Newburg or any dish which calls for the simple re-heating of the meat, cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour, adding salt after cooking a half hour. Rapid boil-ing toughens the meat. Let the water simmer at about 180 Fahr. Where the lobster is to be kept over night or from Saturday until Sunday, as is frequently the case, it must be boiled and chilled quickly. It is better to put it directly on the ice. Do not remove the meat from the shell until yon are ready to use it. Under no circumstances should the meat be taken from the shell, put into an open vessel and placed in a cellar. Such can- ditions are apt to produce ptomaine poisonings, especially if there are decomposing materials in the cellar. TO OPEN A LOBSTER After the lobster is thoroughly chilled twist off the claws and then the tail shell from the body. Split the tail underneath directly down the centre, and remove the meat in one long piece Pull open the body shell, take out the "liver" of the lobster, which you will know by its greenish soft condition; also the coral. Then lift the body from the shell; remove the stomach, sometimes called the "lady," which is found immediately under-neath the head. Throw this away. Pick the meatfrom the shells; break into halves the solid piece of meat that you have taken from the tail and remove the intestine running its entire length. Crack the claws and pick out the meat. TO SERVE PLAIN Arrange the meat neatly in the centre of a cold platter, garnish with the small claws, crisp, light leaves of lettuce, hard boiled eggs cut into quarters, and pickled beets cut into fancy shapes. Pass with this French dressing. DEVILED LOBSTER I pint of boiled lobster 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt Yolks of 3 hard boiled eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/4 of a nutmeg grated 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the lobster quickly with a silver knife. Put the milk over the fire. Rub together the butter and flour; add them to the hot milk; stir until smooth. Take from the fire; add the yolks of the eggs that have been pressed through a sieve; add the salt, pepper, parsley and nutmeg to the lobster, and then mix the two together. Cut the body shell of the lobster into two neat pieces. Make two shells of each claw and two or three of the tail shell. Wash and wipe them dry. Fill the mixture into these shells, forming it into a mound. Dip carefully in egg, dust thickly with bread crumbs, being careful to cement the edges where the stuffing and shell come together. Put these in a frying basket, and plunge them into hot fat. Serve hot with a garnish of cress. Sauce tartare may be passed in a separate dish. LOBSTER CUTLETS 1 pint of boiled lobster 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Yolks of 2 eggs 1/2 pint of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the lobster rather fine with a silver knife; add to it the parsley, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Put the milk in a saucepan over the fire. Rub together the butter and flour, add to the milk, and stir until smooth and thick. Add the beaten yolks of the eggs and cook just a moment. Take from the fire and stir in carefully the lobster. Turn out to cool. When perfectly cold, form into cutlet -shaped croquettes; dip in beaten egg, and cover with bread crumbs. Put them, a few at a time, in the frying basket and fry in hot fat until a nice brown. This will take about two minutes. Lift each carefully; rest for a few moments on soft brown paper to drain. When ready to serve, put in the end of each cutlet one of the small claws, or the little sticks with the frill of paper on the end, which come for the purpose. Garnish with parsley and serve with sauce tartare in a separate dish, or cream sauce, put in the plate first, the cut-lets arranged on it. LOBSTER FARCI This is precisely the same as deviled lobster, using the entire shell of the lobster turned upside down for holding the farci. Brush the farci with egg, dust with bread crumbs, and brown in the oven. LOBSTER CASSEROLE 1 pint of boiled lobster 1 gill (half-cup) of cream 1 gill (half-cup) of white stock 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of parsley Yolks of two eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the butter into a saucepan; add the flour; mix until smooth; add the milk and stock and stir constantly until the mixture. boils. Take from the fire; add the salt, pepper and lobster; stand over hot water until thoroughly heated; then stir in the yolk of the egg and pour into the centre of a deep dish that has been lined with carefully boiled rice; dust the whole with chopped parsley and send at once to the table. If you have used a hen lobster with coral, mash the coral and sprinkle it over the rice, and the parsley over the lobster. LOBSTER WITH TOMATO SAUCE 1 medium sized lobster 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of strained tomato 1 slice of onion 1 bay leaf 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the bay leaf, onion, salt and pepper into the tomato; cook slowly for five minutes. Rub together the butter and flour; add gradually the tomato; bring to boiling point, and stand over hot water. Open the lobster and cut it into squares of one inch. Strain the tomato sauce; add to it the lobster; cover and place over hot water for fifteen minutes, and it is ready to serve. Garnish the dish with triangular pieces of toasted bread. CREAMED LOBSTER 1 good-sized lobster 1/2 pint of milk 1/4 pound of mushrooms or a half can of mushrooms I tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Boil, open and cut the lobster into dice. Put the butter and flour in a saucepan, and when smooth add the cold milk; stir until boiling; add the mushrooms chopped very fine; add salt and pepper and then the lobster; mix carefully; stand over hot water for twenty minutes. If fresh mushrooms are used,, wash, cut into quarters, put them with the butter into the sauce-pan, and push to the back of the stove to cook slowly for ten minutes; draw them to one side in the saucepan; add the flour to the butter; mix, add the milk and stir until boiling; then add the lobster, and when hot, serve. BROILED LIVE LOBSTER The lobster may be killed by cutting it carefully at the joint where the tail and body shell come together. Leave it for a moment, then split it directly into halves; remove the stomach and intestine. Put it in a wire boiler; place it over a clear fire, shell side down, for about ten minutes; turn and broil the flesh side for ten minutes longer; turn it back and baste the flesh side with a little butter, and dust it with salt and pepper. Broil slowly ten minutes longer. Take it from the broiler; crack the claws; dish neatly on a hot platter. Serve with it a small sauce boat of melted butter. The meat can be most easily picked out and eaten with an oyster fork. One lobster is served to each two persons. LOBSTER a la BORDELAISE 1 good-sized lobster 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour I small onion 1/2 pound of fresh mushrooms 1/2 pint of stock 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the butter and onion into a saucepan; cover and cook slowly until the onion is tender, not brown; press through a sieve; return the mixture to the kettle. Add the fresh mush-rooms that have been washed and have the stems removed. Do not peel them. Cover the saucepan; cook slowly for ten min-utes; draw them to one side; add the flour, rub until perfectly smooth and add the stock, the kitchen bouquet, salt and pepper; add the lobster that has been boiled and cut into large pieces. Make four pieces of the tail, four of each claw. Stand the mixture over hot water for ten minutes. Dish the lobster in the centre of a small dish: put the mushrooms over the top, and strain over the sauce; garnish the edge of the dish with small triangular pieces of toasted bread. This may also be served in pate shells or bouche cases. LOBSTER a la NEWBURG 1 heavy lobster 2/3 of a cup of cream 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 6 tablespoonfuls of sherry or Madeira Yolks of 3 hard boiled eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg or 2 drops essence of nutmeg Boil the lobster; when cold, remove the meat; cut into large pieces the same as for lobster Bordelaise; sprinkle over the sherry, and stand it aside for two or three hours. Rub the but-ter and flour together; add the cream cold; stand over hot water until the mixture is thick but not boiling. Press the yolks of the eggs through a sieve into a bowl; with a limber knife or wooden spoon rub them to a paste, adding gradually the hot sauce; add it slowly, a tablespoonful at a time. When this is perfectly smooth, strain through a sieve, add the salt, pepper and nutmeg; add the lobster; stand the whole over hot water until smoking hot; serve immediately. This may be made in the afternoon, and re-heated at serving time in the chafing dish, using the water pan. In putting the wine over the lobster, you get the flavor of the wine without diluting the sauce. If the wine is added to the sauce it becomes liquid, leaving the lobster uncovered. This recipe may be used for all dishes a la Newburg, simply substituting other meats for the lobster, using the same sauce. CRABS Crabs, like lobsters, are in season during the summer, in good condition from the first of May to the first of September; they are, of course, in the market at other times, but cannot be said to be in good condition. Crabs, like lobsters, must be purchased alive, put into warm water, and boiled in precisely the same way. Lift the crabs with tongs; do not attempt to handle them as they are not as easily handled as lobsters. Put in one at a time; cover the kettle and wait for it to die; then put in another; when the last is in and the water has reached a most the boiling point, add a tablespoonful of salt and cook slowly for thirty minutes. Take them from the fire, and when cool twist off the legs; pull off the "aprons," the loose flaps on under shells; separate the shells; remove the stomach, which is just underneath the head, and the little "twist" of intestines and the gills or "dead men's fingers." Cut the crab directly into halves, so that the meat may be picked out carefully without getting the finer portions of the shell. TO SERVE COLD Wash and dry the upper shells; fill them with cold crab meat,dish and garnish with cress. Serve with French dressing. DEVILED CRABS 12 crabs 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Yolks of 4 hard boiled eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of paprika 1/2 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1/2 1 level teaspoonful of salt Dash of white pepper After the crabs are boiled and cold and the meat removed, select and clean nine of the nicest upper shells. Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan; add the milk cold; stir over the fire until it just reaches the boiling point. Mash the yolks of the eggs, work into them carefully this hot sauce. Add all the seasoning to the crab meat. Mix the two together. Allow the meat to remain in as large pieces as possible. Fill into the back shells, smoothing them down neatly. Beat two eggs; add two tablespoonfuls of warm water. Pick up the crab shell, hold-ing it by the very point; cover it over carefully with the beaten egg; dust quickly with bread crumbs, fastening securely with the egg and bread crumb the part where the meat and shells come together, otherwise the fat will enter during the frying and the crabs will be spoiled. When ready to use, put them, two or three at a time according to the size, into the frying basket; plunge them into hot fat and cook about one minute, and serve. White soft bread crumbs make a much handsomer deviled crab than the dry crumbs. Take the centre of a stale loaf of bread and rub it between your hands until it is light and well divided. As soon as you have covered each deviled crab with egg, quickly sprinkle it with the crumbs. Crabs may be serve alone, or sauce tartare may be passed with them. CRAB CROQUETTES These are precisely the same as lobster cutlets. Form into pyramid shaped croquettes, dip in egg and bread crumbs; and fry in hot fat. CREAMED CRABS Make a cream sauce; add the usual seasoning, and fold in care-fully the meat from one dozen crabs. When hot serve in patty shells, bread boxes, on toast or in bouche cases. CRABS IN TOMATO CASES 12 crabs 6 tablespoonfuls of oil 1 lemon 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 level teaspoonful of salt 12 small tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1 clove of garlic 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 saltspoonful of pepper Boil the crabs, remove the meat, put over it the juice of the lemon and stand aside until very cold. Peel the tomatoes. Cut a slice from the stem end and scoop out the centre; stand them on the ice until cold. When ready to serve, make a French dressing of salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and onion juice. Rub the bowl in which you make it with a clove of garlic. Fill the crab into the tomato shells, baste each carefully with French dress-ing, stand them in little nests of cress or lettuce leaves and send at once to the table. CRABS WITH FRESH MUSHROOMS 12 mushrooms 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 6 crabs 1/2 pint of stock 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper 6 rounds of bread With your cake cutter cut from a slice of bread a round suffi-ciently large to hold a good-sized mushroom. Put six of these into the oven until crisp and brown. Wash six large mush-rooms; trim the stems flush with the gills. Have ready boiled and picked apart six crabs. Put the mushrooms in an ordinary baking pan, gill side up; dust them lightly with salt; bake in a quick oven ten minutes or until tender. They must retain their shape. While these are heating, put the crab meat in a double boiler or over hot water. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, and, when boiling, the kitchen bouquet, salt and pepper. Lift the mushrooms carefully, put each, skin side down, on a round of toast. Heap the crab meat into a pyramid in the centre of each mushroom; baste over a little of the brown sauce; pour the remainder in the bottom of the dish; garnish the ends of the dish with large bunches of parsley. Left-over fish may be substituted for the crab meat. SOFT SHELL CRABS Soft shell crabs are nothing more than the hardshell crabs shedding their shells. They are to be had from July to Sep-tember. When a crab or lobster outgrows its shell, it has the power of splitting down the back, drawing its hands, as it were, out of the "sleeves'' or claw shells, retiring until the new shell becomes hardand protective. It is under these conditions that we have soft shell crabs; not the most hygienic food that one can possibly take, as all animals during this period of "moult-ing" are more or less in a state of disease. However, we have trained our artificial palates to like the flavor; hence they are in demand and at a large price. The new shell becomes hardin about three days, which accounts for the always short supply. These must be cooked actually alive. While we throw lobsters into boiling water to kill them, we pull apart the soft shell crab in a live condition, and put it into the frying pan while it is dying. And still we are civilized. To prepare, lift the shell and remove the spongy fingers or gills from both sides. Then put your thumb nail under the point of the "apron," and pull it off. The apron is the small loose shell running to a point or round in the middle of the under shell. Now wash and wipe the crabs; dip them at once in beaten egg, roll them in bread crumbs, and dust with salt and pepper or you may dip them in egg alone, and plunge them at once into hot fat. Many cooks prefer to saute them: that is to fry in a small quantity of fat, cooking first on one side then on the other. Either method requires about ten minutes. When done, throw them on soft brown paper, and dish them on toast garnished with parsley and lemon cut into quarters. Pass sauce tartare in a separate dish. CRAWFISH AND SHRIMPS These are usually sold boiled, and are capable of being made into any of the recipes given for lobster or crabs. Shrimps in cream sauce, shrimp salad and shrimps a la Bordelaise are per-haps among the best of the shrimp dishes; or they may be served cold with French dressing. Crawfish are used to garnish fancy dishes of lobster. MOLLUSKS Scientists have recently been turning a little of their attention to the investigation of the food for man. It is almost a uni-versal rule that all animal food must be subjected to a high temperature to remove the dangerous germs. In these days even milk must be Pasteurized, at least, to be at all safe. No thinking person drinks raw milk, unless they have had a per- sonal introduction to the cow from which it was taken and, moreover, to the surroundings in which both cow and milk are kept. Man, however, breaks away, as it were, from all these thoughts, and eats his oysters and clams raw. Oysters are perhaps as unclean as any other animal food. They are fre-quently fattened in objectionable places, and are eaten alive, intestines and all. The thought is certainly not a pleasant one. Cases of typhoid have been directly traced to the eating of raw oysters. It seems perfectly rationalandquite consistent that the germ of typhoid should live and thrive inside of an oyster shell, and, if eaten uncooked, must certainly be transferred man. They are palatable, hence will always be eaten raw by unthinking people. The masses pay too much attention to the palate, and too little to the building of the body. Cooking kills the dangerous germs. OYSTERS Oysters are in season from September until May 1st; are better, of course, during the winter months. They come in as lobsters and crabs go out. They must under all circumstances be alive and fresh when used. Oysters that have been opened for a few hours lose their flavor and firmness, and are inferior to a freshly opened oyster. Oysters when stale are poisonous. STEWED OYSTERS 50 oysters 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour I pint of milk 6 whole allspice 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Drain the oysters in a colander. Do not use this "liquor." Plunge them, colander and all, into a pan of cold water and drain again. Throw them into a hot saucepan; shake quickly, add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together, and stir it carefully into the stew; add the allspice; watch carefully until it just reaches the boiling point; add the salt and pepper and serve at once. OYSTERS a la POULETTE 25 large oysters 1/2 cup of milk Yolks of 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Dash of cayenne Drain and wash the oysters, throw them into a saucepan, bring to boiling point, and cook until the gills curl. Drain, this time saving the liquor; add to this the milk. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk and oyster liquor; stir until boiling: add the salt, cayenne and oysters. When the whole is thor-oughly heated, take from the fire and add the yolks of the eggs slightly beaten. This may be served with a garnish of triangu-lar pieces of toast, or it may be served on toast, in pate shells or in bread boxes, garnished with parsley. OYSTERS FOR FILLING PATTIES 25 small oysters 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of cream or milk Suspicion of mace 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Drain and wash the oysters; throw them into a saucepan; stir carefully until the gills are curled; drain, saving the liquor. Rub the butter and flour together; add the cream cold; stir over hot water until smooth and thick, not boiling; add the mace, salt and pepper and oyster liquor; stir in the oysters, stand over hot water a few minutes, and it is ready for use. This is the mixture used for filling oyster vol-au-vent, or bread pate, or bread boats, or urns. DRY PAN Drain and wash twenty-five oysters. Put an iron saute pan or spider over a quick fire; when hissing hot throw in quickly the oysters; shake and stir at once until they reach the boiling point; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a tablespoonful of butter and serve immediately in a hot dish. This is perhaps one of the best ways of cooking oysters. CURRY of OYSTERS 25 oysters 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of curry powder 1 small onion 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice Dash of red pepper Drain and wash the oysters. Make very hot an ordinary cake griddle. Put by the side of it a double boiler, the under one partly filled with boiling water, the upper part empty. Take the colander near the stove, throw the oysters, three or four at a time, on the griddle; as fast as they brown on one side, turn and brown the other, then lift quickly into the double boiler. When you have finished, draw the boiler to one side of the fire. Put the butter into a saucepan, add the curry, stir for a moment, then add the flour. Now turn the oysters into this mixture; stir carefully until they reach boiling point; add the grated onion and the lemon juice, and serve. DEVILED OYSTERS No. 1 25 oysters 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 saltspoonful of paprika 1/2 saltspoonful of white pepper 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Yolks of two hard boiled eggs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Drain and wash the oysters; throw them into a hot kettle; stir until the gills have curled; drain, saving the liquor. Chop the oysters; drain again, adding this to the other liquor. Rub the butter and flour together, add the oyster liquor and milk cold; stir over the fire until they reach the boiling point; add all the seasoning and the yolks of the eggs slightly beaten; cook just a moment longer; add the oysters, and stand aside to cool. When cold, fill the mixture into the deep shell of the oyster or into clam shells or in any individual shells that you may have in the house. Beat an egg until the white and yolk are thoroughly mixed; add a tablespoonful of warm water; beat again. Take the shell in your hand and baste it all over with this beaten egg; then dust thickly with bread crumbs, cementing well where the mixture and shell come together. When ready to serve put a few at a time in a frying basket and plunge them into hot fat. Caution.?An abundance of egg and bread must be put around the edge of the shell so that it will quickly harden when plunged into the hot fat, otherwise the fat will penetrate and spoil the flavor of the mixture. This same mixture may be put into individual or ramekin dishes, covered with browned bread crumbs and put into the oven a few minutes to heat. DEVILED OYSTERS No. 2 For this use the same quantities as in preceding recipe. Par-boil the oysters, chop and drain them; save the liquor and add to it the milk. Put the butter in the chafing dish; add the flour, then the oyster liquor and milk; when boiling add the season-ing, the chopped oysters, and when these are smoking hot stir in at the last moment the yolks of the eggs slightly beaten. Be careful now that the mixture does not boil or it will curdle. When smoking hot, serve. OYSTERS PANNED IN THE CHAFING DISH Have the oysters drained and washed. Light the burners under the blazer; when the blazer is slightly heated, throw in the oysters; stir constantly until the gills have curled and the mixture actually boils. Add a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a half saltspoonful of white pepper, and serve at once. This recipe may be varied by occasionally adding a little cream or a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, or, for those who use it, four tablespoonfuls of wine. PHILADELPHIA BROILED OYSTERS Select large fat oysters; lay them out singly on a board, dry carefully with a piece of cheesecloth; dust with salt and cayenne on both sides. Put over the fire your double boiler, the water boiling in the underneath part. Put into it a tablespoon-ful of butter and one of flour; mix, and add a half pint of stock or water, the first preferable. When this thickens, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, a saltspoonful of white pepper and a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet; and two tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use it. Let it stand on the back part of the stove while you broil the oysters. Put over the hot-test part of the fire the ordinary cake griddle. Have the oysters at hand, and when the griddle is smoking hot brush it lightly with a little butter; throw on four or five oysters, brown quickly; turn, and as soon as they are brown on this side, lift them into the brown sauce, and so continue until all the oysters are ''broiled." To have these a perfect success, your gridiron must be very, very hot, and only a few oysters at a time browned. The moment an oyster touches a hot surface, it parts with its juice, and the juice will prevent the browning, hence the necessity of doing only four or five at a time. Dish on toast, and pour over the brown sauce. OYSTERS BROILED UNDER A GAS STOVE Select twenty-five oysters; dry, and season as directed in pre-ceding recipes. Put under the gas flame an ordinary shallow baking pan; when the pan is very hot, brush the bottom lightly with butter, and throw in the oysters; put it back under and as near the flame as possible. When the oysters have quickly browned on this side, turn and brown on the other. Serve at once in a very hot dish; add a tablespoonful of butter, or they may be served on toast. This is perhaps one of the simplest and most palatable ways of cooking oysters. BAKED OYSTERS Select nice large oysters in the shell; wash, scrub and rinse until the shells are free from sand. Place in a baking pan, and then in a quick oven (about 4000 Fahr.); bake for ten or fifteen minutes until the shells open. Take from the oven, and quickly remove the upper shell. Arrange six on a dinner plate with a little cup of melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, placed in the centre, and send at once to the table. To eat these remove the oysters from the shell with an oyster fork, and dip them into melted butter. STEAMED OYSTERS Select nice good-sized oysters. Wash, scrub and rinse the shells until free from sand. Put them into a steamer over boiling water, and steam rapidly for fifteen or twenty minutes until the shells are open. Serve precisely the same as baked oysters. PHILADELPHIA FRIED OYSTER Select for frying, oysters of a good size and in the best condi-tion possible. Drain in a colander; lift them one by one using the fingers, picking them up by the muscular portion, and place them out on a dry board. Dry on both sides with a piece of soft cheesecloth. Never lift an oyster with a fork, as the stick-ing of the fork into the muscular portion of the oyster spoils its flavor and makes perforations which cannot always be covered. Do not use a spoon, as you are liable to take a portion of the juice with the oyster, and this makes them difficult to fry. Sprinkle the oysters with salt and cayenne. To each dozen oysters allow one egg. Beat the white and yolk together until thoroughly mixed; add a tablespoonful of warm water; beat again. Spread out on a dry board a large "bed" of nicely rolled and dry bread crumbs. Do not use cracker crumbs. Lift the oyster, again with the thumb and forefinger, always grasp-ing it by the muscular part, dip first into the bread crumbs, then quickly into the egg, and back into the bread crumbs, this time cover it all over, and press it lightly with the hand; be careful, however, not to bruise the oyster. Put singly on a dry cloth ready for frying. Be careful in dipping that you do not get the bread crumbs mixed with the egg, or the egg with the bread crumbs. After dipping the oyster in crumbs, shake lightly; clip it quickly into the egg that you may not wash off the crumbs. After you have dipped the last oyster, which should be done before the frying begins, put the fat over the fire; oil, either olive or cotton seed, will be first choice, cocoanut butter being, perhaps, equally good; second choice, a mixture of oil and suet; third, a mixture of lard and suet. Lard alone will not give good results. I should much prefer to use suet alone. Under no circumstances fry an oyster in butter, it is greasy, unpalatable, unsightly and difficult of digestion. Watch the fat carefully until it reaches 360 to 365 (Fahr.). If you are without a thermometer, drop in a bit of bread; if it browns in twenty seconds, the fat is sufficiently heated. Put about six oysters in a frying basket, plunge into the hot fat; as soon as the oysters are a golden brown, lift the basket, drain, stand them edgewise on a piece of soft brown paper in the bottom of a baking pan, and stand in the oven a moment to drain. Quickly fry another basketful, and so continue until you have all the oysters fried. If these are to be served as an accompaniment to a salad course at dinner, fry them while the previous course is being served; they must be sent at once to the table. Warmed over oysters are heavy and unpalatable. Where they form the main " meat dish" at supper or lunch, they should be fried during the meal, that the plate may be replenished with hot, fresh, crisp oysters. A large quantity may be dipped an hour or two before frying time, provided they are spread out singly on a clean cloth in a cold place; but the frying must be done at the last moment. Garnish the dish with quarters of lemon and parsley, and serve with them either cabbage salad, pepper hash, or stuffed mangoes. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Drain, wash and drain again, fifty oysters. Prepare a quart of dry bread or toast cut into dice. The easier way is to cut the bread into dice and put it in the oven until hardand dry. Put a layer of this into the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of oysters, a sprinkling of salt and pepper and a half table-spoonful of butter cut into bits; then another layer of bread and oysters, and so continue until all the materials are used, having the last layer bread. Over the top put bits of butter; baste the bread on top with a half cup of milk; bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve at once in the same dish in which they are baked. These are exceedingly nice when made in the deep under shells of the oyster instead of an ordinary baking pan. Cover the shell with fine dry bread crumbs; put in three or four oysters, dust with salt and pepper; cover with fine bread crumbs, dotting here and there with bits of butter. Put these in a baking pan and into a quick oven for ten minutes. The roasting or baking in the shell imparts a savor to the oyster not obtainable in an ordinary baking dish. OYSTERS AND MACARONI 4 ounces of macaroni 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 cup (1 gill) of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 25 large fat oysters 4 tablespoonfuls of soft cheese or 2 tablespoonfuls of parmesan 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Boil the macaroni by throwing it into a kettle of boiling water; cook twenty minutes; drain; throw into cold water until white and swollen; drain again; cut into lengths of one inch. Drain and wash the oysters. Cover the bottom of a baking dish with the boiled macaroni, then put in a layer of oysters, a dusting of salt and pepper, and so continue until the dish is full, having the last layer macaroni; sprinkle over the cheese, then a layer of soft bread crumbs; on top put the butter cut into bits, and baste the whole carefully with the milk. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Send at once to the table in the dish in which it was cooked. OYSTERSAND TRIPE 25 fat oysters 1 small onion 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 pound of honeycomb tripe 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of white pepper The tripe must be boiled until perfectly tender, and cut into narrow strips or dice. Put the butter into a saucepan; add the onion chopped; cover the saucepan and cook until the onion is soft, not brown. Now add the flour, mix, add the milk, stir until boiling, and add the tripe and oysters. When the oysters are thoroughly cooked so that the gills are curled, add the salt and pepper and serve at once. OYSTER CROQUETTES 25 nice fat oysters 1/2 cup of soft bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1/4 of a nutmeg grated 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 gill of oyster liquor 1 gill of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Yolks of 2 eggs About 3 shakes of cayenne Drain and wash the oysters; drain again. Throw them into a hot saucepan and stir over the fire until they have actually boiled. Drain, this time saving the liquor. With a silver knife, chop the oysters fine; drain, add this liquor to the first. Put the butter and flour in a saucepan; add the oyster liquor and milk; stir over the fire until thick and smooth. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs slightly beaten, the bread crumbs, the oysters and all the seasoning. Put back over the fire and stir until the mixture reaches the boiling point; turn out to cool. When perfectly cold form into cylinder-shaped cro-quettes, dip in egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat (365 Fahr.). TO PRESERVE OYSTERS FOR SALAD Oysters may be pickled and put aside to serve as oyster salad, when fresh oysters are out of season. These are really much more wholesome than oysters canned or preserved in any other way. 50 oysters 12 whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of whole allspice 1/2 pint of white wine vinegar 1 small red pepper 2 blades of mace 1 tablespoonful of whole pepper-corns 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish Wash and drain the oysters. Throw them dry into a hot kettle, cook until the gills are curled. Drain, saving this liquor. When the oysters and the liquor are perfectly cold, strain the liquor through two thicknesses of cheese-cloth; to a pint of this liquor, add a pint of white wine vinegar and put them into a porcelain lined kettle; add the spices. Arrange the oysters in glass jars; adjust the rubbers. When the vinegar has really boiled, dip it carefully over the oysters in the jars; fill the jars to overflowing and screw on the tops and stand at once in a cold place. These will keep for some time, or may be used the same clay. Cider vinegar will not answer the purpose; white wine vinegar only will keep oysters. LITTLE PIGS IN BLANKETS This old recipe has been used for a number of years by many American cooks. The oysters are drained and dried and each one wrapped in a very thin slice of bacon, the whole fastened with a small wooden skewer or toothpick. When ready to serve have a large iron baking pan well heated; throw in a few oysters at a time, and as soon as they are browned and the gills curled, take them out, drain in a colander, and continue the fry-ing in the same pan. To eat pick them up by the skewer with the thumb and finger. CLAMS Clams are of several varieties, are more difficult of digestion than oysters, but are certainly less liable to contamination; hence are safer in an uncooked condition. The Cherry Stone, Little Neck, and Sand clams are usually served raw. The mud clam or Ouahaugs are used for clear broth and soup. The flesh of these is tough and very difficult of diges-tion. The small soft shell clams found in the summer and autumn so abundantly along the New England coast, are best steamed, served hot in their shells, with an accompanying cup or boat of broth. SCALLOPS A bivalve mollusk, of the family Pectinidae. The heavy muscle which holds together the shell is the only part used as food. They are sold by measure, and are usually stewed, fried or served a la Newburg. TO FRY Wash, dry, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and dust with salt and pepper. Fry in deep hot fat. TO STEW Wash and drain a pint of scallops. Make a pint of white sauce, add the scallops and cook ten minutes in a double boiler. A LA NEWBURG Wash, drain and cover one pint of scallops with boiling water. Let them stand ten minutes, drain and finish the same as Lobster a la Newburg. MEATS Scientists in general agree that animal proteids yield more easily to the digestive apparatus of man than vegetable pro-teids. We might correctly call flesh a partly digested food, the animal having converted the vegetable tissues into animal tissues, which are exceedingly well adapted to the growth and maintenance of the organic structure of the human body. And, in our rapid method of living, it seems to suit better than the same amount of vegetable food. We in this generation find it difficult to digest the legumin-ous vegetables (peas, beans and lentils) which contain the pro-teid materials useful in the building of muscles and tissues; hence the increased demand for meat. Primitive man found no difficulty whatever in building muscle, brain and nerve from these coarse vegetable foods; but it must be borne in mind that his mental activity was far less than ours. Perhaps his bodily vigor was more intense; but even this is doubtful if we sum up the hours of modern labor from the beginning to the end of life. The intense excitement and energy needed for the chase was of short duration compared to the working hours of the laborer of the twentieth century. Meats, in proper proportion then, are necessary to rapid development. I must contend, however, that a well selected vegetable diet will give health, bodily vigor and mental strength to those who live rationally. Opinions to the contrary are given by those experimenters who have for years lived on a mixed diet, largely meat, and quickly changed, for the sake of experimental purposes, to four or six weeks' vegetable diet, from which they make their report. A radical change of this kind must necessarily provoke irregulari-ties. Such experiments are of little value; they really prove nothing. Observe carefully those who have always lived largely on meat, those on a mixed diet of proper proportions, and the vegetarian, all occupying the same positions in the world, simply choosing different foods for the same purpose. Such observations are of value. The vegetarian is quite equal in strength to either of the others and most likely freer from disease. The amount of proteid matter in plants is far less than in animals, except in the leguminous seeds. This proves at once that in a vegetable diet the right sort of vegetables must be used. For instance, it would be folly to substitute potatoes for meat, or any succulent vegetable for meat; peas, beans and lentils, the pulse tribe, alone will give the necessary amount of nitrogenous (muscle-making or tissue-building) foods. We have followed the practice?perhaps without knowing exactly why?of serving pork, which is a heat-producing food, with our beans, muscle-making food. Then, on the other hand, we serve potatoes with beef. Such combinations are wise. It would be foolish, indeed, to serve pork and potatoes. The vegetarian selects beans and potatoes, and thereby gets a greater amount of nitrogen, a larger proportion of muscle-making food, than from beef and potatoes. The out-door laborer, with an abund-ance of pure air, would in all wisdom select beans rather than beef. To the indoor laborer, however, beef would be prefer-able. It would suit his sluggish digestive apparatus much better; he could, without doubt, get a far greater amount of nitrogen with less expenditure of energy, from the beef. The proteid matter of animals and vegetables does not differ essen-tially in chemical composition. The remaining constituents, however, show the widest diversity. There is an entire absence of starch in animal food. In flesh we find muscular fibre with the blood vessels, nerves and connective tissues, and a variable proportion of water and fatty matter, the latter according to the method of keeping and feeding the animals. With one exception, the animals we use as foods are granivorous, and according to my opinion the hog?the exception?if he be used at all as food, should be fed upon vegetable substances. The ratio of water in fish, flesh and fowl is about the same. If a piece of lean beef be dried in the sunshine or by artificial methods, it will shrink, diminishing in bulk, losing its natural water. Four pounds of this flesh will leave but one pound of dried flesh, losing, as you see, 75 per cent, of water. It is said by many experimenters that the connective tissue of beef is more difficult of digestion than the ordinary fibre; hence tough meat, caused by the development of these, must be cooked with moist heat to soften them, or ground thoroughly in a meat grinder, to tear them apart, before cooking. The fibre of meat, if washed free from other material, can easily be seen under a microscope. Take a small piece of lean beef, wash it carefully through several cold waters, and you will have left a mass of muscular or fibrous tissue, insoluble in alcohol, and only slightly softened when cooked in water. Beef is looked upon as being more nutritious than mutton, while mutton is the more easily digested. We must take into consideration, however, that mutton contains more fat. To some, this would be objectionable, as cooked fat is rather difficult of emulsifi-cation. Fats are wholesome foods, but must be taken at the temperature of the body; hence the fats of meat, which must necessarily be cooked to be free from danger, are not desirable foods. About one-fourth of the dry substance of ordinary butchers' meat is fat; and this, you will remember, represents heat food, taking the place of starch in our vegetable foods, although it produces in the body a greater amount of heat and less fat. Moleschott says that "fat is the first material in the body to be burned for the production of animal heat." People of the arctic region live largely upon blubber, which produces the great bodily heat necessary in those cold climates, while in the southern warm climates, little fat is required. Starches and sugars have hydrogen and oxygen in the same proportions as they exist in water, burn more slowly, producing less heat. It is said that explorers in temperate or cold climates who have been obliged to live on wild animals and game (these, you will remember, are quite free from fat) are obliged to take with them oil, or now and then use some form of animal fat, as bacon, to keep up the balance of their dietary. Fowls contain less fat, as a rule, than beef or mutton, unless they are fed to excess, or "spayed," or castrated, as in the case of the "capon," or where they are simply crammed as are the geese of Strassburg, to make the fattened livers. The latter method, however, produces diseased flesh. Young animals, as veal, lamb and young chickens, contain less fat than those fully grown. Fish vary to a great extent as to the amount of fat present in the flesh. The whitings, tur-bot, sole, white fish, pike, flounder, halibut, haddock, contain less fat than salmon, mackerel, sturgeon, eels or shad. The herring is a fish almost by itself; it contains much more fat "in season" than when it is "out of season." Sturgeon contains the greatest amount of fat; salmon perhaps ranks second. Dried meats are those that have parted with most of their natural water. In this condition they are said to be "preserved," and, if protected from the air, will keep a long time. They consist principally of nitrogenous materials known as myosin, fibrin, albumin, gelatin and fat, the proportion of which is variable. All albuminous or nitrogenous foods are more easily digested uncooked; but cooking becomes necessary to remove the danger of disease germs; hence it is desirable that meat shall be thoroughly heated. The American fashion of serving meat "rare" or in a rather purple condition, is certainly objectionable. A rule to be remembered is that all white meats must be thoroughly cooked. Red meats may be served a little underdone. This does not mean that the blood must run from them as they are carved, but that they must be pink, juicy and tender. Veal, lamb and young chicken require a greater time for digestion than mature animals of the same kind. Of these, lamb and young chicken are perhaps least objectionable. TABLE OF COMPARATIVE ANALYSES In summing up, consider the comparative analyses of meats in common use. It will be noticed that the water decreases as the fat in the meat increases; and that in some cases, in the same animal, it affects also the mineral matter or salts. For instance, in lean mutton, the mineral matter is 4.8; in fat mutton, 3.5. When meat is recommended as an article of diet, it must form only one-fifth, at most one-fourth, of a well-balanced dietary. We have simply recommended it as a better form of nitrogenous food for persons of sedentary habits than a purely vegetable diet. These analyses have been taken from various books of reference, Yeo, Pavy, Church and Letherby.   Lean Beef Fat Beef Lean Mutton Fat Mutton Veal Fat Pork Lean Pork Water...... 72. 51. 72. 53. 63. 39. 71.1 Fat....... 3.6 29.8 4.9 31.1 15.8 48.9 6.9 Salts...... 5.1 4.4 4.8 3.5 4.7 2.3 1.2 Nitrogenous Matter 19.3 14.8 18.3 12.4 16.5 9.8 20.8       Fish   Partridges Fowl Flounder Salmon Water........... 71-9 77.8 80.4 64. Fat............ 1.4 1.0 2.0 12.2 Salts.......... 1.4 1.6 3.6 1.8 Nitrogenous Matter..... 25.3 17.3 14. 22. Extractives.........   2.3 ? ? TABLE OF COMPARATIVE DIGESTIBILITY in ordinarily healthy persons, all foods under consideration having been cooked and moderately seasoned.   H. M. Eggs, soft boiled ...... 2 30 " hard"..... , 3 30 " fried.......- 3 30 Mutton, broiled....... 3 00 " roasted....... 3 00 " boiled....... 3 00 Pork, stewed........ 5 00 - roasted........ 5 15 " fried......... 5 15 Sucking pig, roasted..... 2 30 Flounder, boiled...... 3 00 Salmon, " ...... 4 00 Oysters, stewed....... 3 30 Beef, boiled........ 3 00 " roasted or baked .... 3 30 " broiled........ 3 15 " fried......... 4 00 Lamb, roasted ....... 3 00 " baked........ 3 00 Veal, stewed,........ 4 00 " roasted........ 4 30 Venison steak, broiled .... 1 25 Tripe, carefully cooked. , . 1 00 Sweetbreads,> carefully cooked . 1 00 Pig's feet, stewed...... 1 00 BEEF Beef should be fine grained, the outside, that portion exposed to the air, a light red, showing a shade of purple when the first slice is cut off; the lean mottled with fat; the fat solid, and yellowish white. Avoid beefwith yellow fat; it usually denotes an old and ill-fed animal. The lean flesh of such meat is tough, rich in water, and is rarely palatable even when carefully cooked. A "spayed" heifer from four to six years of age gives the very finest of beef. Second comes the steer or bullock which has been allowed to remain in our western fields until four or five years old, then quickly fattened and killed while in a perfectly healthy condition. The working ox, cow and bull do not give us choice meat. In the first, the muscles have been hardened by work, making a coarse grained flesh, ligaments and muscle, weighing less than good beef according to the amount of bones. A cow, as a rule, is not sold for beef until she is too old to milk; hence the flesh is shriveled, tough and unpalatable. The flesh of a bull is usually dark in color, tough and stringy, while the fat is strong in flavor and golden in color. Animals whose flesh is to be used as food for man should be carefully fed and properly killed; the flesh put at once into cold storage and "hung" until the rigor mortis has passed. It is a well known fact that immediately after death the muscles become rigid and tense, a condition due to the spontaneous coagulation of the myosin of the muscular fibrin. Its duration varies greatly in different animals and under different conditions; do not eat the flesh of animals until this has passed away. "Hang" all animals and birds. Use fish as soon as they come from the water. It was supposed, in the earlier days, that mutton required a longer "hanging" time than beef, game still longer and that poultry might with impunity be used the same day on which it was killed. After experimenting carefully, we find that barn yard fowls require hanging from twenty-four to thirty hours. If an animal is cooked before rigor mortis has "set in," it may possibly be tender, but certainly has a very unpleasant flavor. In very warm countries, however, where meat cannot be kept Beef. An illustration of Beef with Different Body Parts Numbered. 1 Head 2 Sticking Piece 3 Neck 4 2d and 3d Chuck 5 1st Chuck 6 1st Cut Standing Ribs 7 Middle Cut 8 Hack Ribs 9 Plate 10 Brisket 11 Butt End Brisket 12 Bolar 13 Bony End Shoulder 14 Shin CGT Consulting, Inc. 15 LoinCGT Consulting, Inc. 16 Flank or Skirt 17 18 Veiny Piece 19 Round 20 Leg 21 Tail 22 Pin Bone Chuck Rib Roast, Cut for Cooking Page 142 An illustration of a Chuck Rib Roast, Cut for Cooking. more than two or three hours, immediate cooking is necessary Such meats are usually wrapped in paw-paw leaves, which partly digest and soften the fibre. Of the several desirable methods of cooking beef, roasting, grilling, or broiling best preserves the juices and develops the flavor. Roasting, grilling or broiling means to expose one side of the meat to a hot fire while the other is toward the fresh, cold air. Our forefathers roasted and broiled meat before an open fire. The beef of old England is still roasted, but in this country we almost invariably bake rather than "roast." It requires less attention and is more convenient. No matter in what way the meat is cooked, the object is the same?to thoroughly cook and at the same time retain the juices, and make the meat tender and well flavored. By exposing the meat to an intense heat, the juices on the outside are coagulated, forming a covering or crust which prevents the further escape of the juice, and retains the flavor of the meat. If properly cooked, a piece of beef may be well done and still juicy. Dry meatis always the result of poor cooking. Different pieces of meat require different methods of cooking to bring about the best results. For instance, parts of the animal toughened by use or motion, as the round and shoulder, require moist heat to soften the fibre and connective tissue. It would be very unwise and extravagant to purchase the same sort of meat for roasting that one would use for stewing. The diagram has been marked by one of the leading butchers in Philadelphia. The division will not, of course, correspond to the cutting in all cities of the United States, but will give the housewife a very good idea of the general division of beef. In the west, the animal is divided into halves at the first rib, one long standing rib being taken off with the hind quarter. This is well for the butcher, but bad for the housewife. In Boston, the division is just a little different from that in New York and Philadelphia. By a careful study of the whole animal (for the animals that go to Boston, New York, Philadelphia and the west have the same number of ribs), one -will get a closer idea of the different conditions of meat in the various parts of the animal. For moist cookery such as stews, en casserole, or in any fashion where water is used, select the round (19), either upper or under. For boiling, bolar (I2) or round (I9) or the veiny piece of the rump (I8). The flank steak (I6) for rolled steak, mock fillet, steak a la Flamande or beefsteak pie. For the cheap stews, I3 and I8. For beef a la mode in a large family, a thick slice of the round (I9) is usually selected. In a smaller family the bolar piece (I2) is more desirable. In markets where the upper and under round are sold divided, the under round is chosen for a small family, although the upper is more tender, but a good slice would be too heavy. For soups or stock the shin and leg are best. The shin being smaller, requires but five quarts of cold water, while the leg requires seven, so the difference in price is due to the difference in size, one being as good as the other. The sticking piece (2) naturally contains more nourishment than almost any other part of the animal, as at this place the animal is bled; hence this piece is best for beef tea, beef extract, mince meat and beef loaf. The ox cheek (I) is not used to any great extent in this country; but in England it gives to the laboring man many a good dinner. It is cheap and nutritious, good boiled and served with vegetables. The neck (3) may also be used for stewing or braising with vegetables, but as one must take a large amount of bone with little lean beef it is extravagant for a small family, and is only good where long, slow cooking is employed, as in soups or stews. The second and third chucks (4) are used for roasting or baking. This, however, would be economical only in an exceedingly large family, as one must take a tremendous weight to get the thickness necessary for a good roast. This is also true of 5. The standing ribs are 6, 7 and 8. These differ from the chuck ribs in that they have more compact flesh. You will notice in 5 a little piece of cartilage coming near the edge of the meat, separating a thin outside layer from the main portion of the meat. As you go on into 4, this cartilage is hardened into bone and forms a portion of the shoulder blade. For this reason thechuck ribs are cheaper than standing ribs, although the meat is desirable and perhaps just as tender. Standing ribs carve to greater advantage. For a large The Loin Taken Apart Page I43 Fillet Centre Bones Back or Sirloin Top An illustration of a Loin Taken Apart. family, 7 would be the desirable cut. For a small family 8; the meat is more compact and weight less for the size; two ribs make an exceedingly nice roast weighing from five to six pounds. If the butcher tops after weighing it, have him send the "top" home to use for deviled ribs or a braise, two of the nicest of the cheap dishes. Fifteen represents the loin, the choice, tender part of the animal. It must be borne in mind that an animal weighing eight hundred to a thousand pounds when dressed, will yield only about fifty pounds of loin, rarely ever more than sixty, hence this portion is very high in price. On the under side is the fillet or tenderloin, tender because it is shielded by the backbone on top, the mass of kidney fat underneath. The meat is without exercise, the muscles are soft, hence we have "tenderloin.' The outside nearest the skin gives us the "sirloin" steak served at the average first-class hotel, and to which we frequently refer as the 'back" of the loin. From the loin we get our "porterhouse" or "sirloin" steaks. In Philadelphia I7 is the rump, in New York the sirloin; it contains desirable steaks for broiling. The aitch or pin bone (22) is a desirable Toast in a large family, the proportion of bone to meat being always the same, makes it an extravagant "small" roast. The plate (9) and the brisket (IO) are best for corning, as here we get the "streak of fat" and a "streak of lean," always desirable in boiled corn beef. The butt end of the shoulder and the butt end of the brisket or clod (II and I3) are not desirable pieces, but may be used for stews and soups. TO ROAST To roast meat place the joint on a hook in a tin kitchen in front of an open fire. In Philadelphia and other cities where bricked-in ranges are used, the large front door is dropped. The fire must be clear and red. Or it may be hung in front of a wood fire, or in front of a charcoalfire, or better still in the underneath, or broiling chamber of a gas stove. Beef cannot be roasted in the oven of a coal stove unless it has a gauze door. We bake in an "oven." The fire must be clear and hot at first to sear the outside quickly; then lower the temperature to 3000 Fahr.; cook for fifteen minutes to each pound. The time varies where the roast is small. A five-pound roast will be put before the fire at a temperature of about 4000 Fahr., turned until the outside is quickly seared, the temperature then reduced to 3000 Fahr. Roast for one hour. It takes longer accordingly for a large roast, as it is more difficult for the heat to penetrate to the very centre. Add salt when the meat is nearly done; never add it at first; as it draws out the juices and toughens the meat. This you may prove by experiment. Put a piece of meat on a plate and sprinkle it thickly with salt. Put an unsalted piece on another plate and stand them both in a dry place for an hour. It will be noticed that the plate holding the salted meat is filled with the juices of the meat, while the other plate is comparatively dry. Sear the outside of meat previous to the salting. As the fat begins to melt and drip, catch it in a dripping pan and baste it frequently over the meat. This also helps to close the pores on the outside and makes the meat juicy and tender. Do not baste with water, as it softens the outside, allowing the juices to escape. TO ROAST IN A GAS STOVE Light the oven burners five minutes before putting in the meat. Place the broiling rack with its pan underneath as near the floor of the stove as possible. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, draw out the pan, place the meat flesh side up. As soon as this is brown and is nicely seared, turn, sear on the other side, and continue until the whole outside has been thoroughly seared. Now turn down the lights to the minimum and roast fifteen minutes to each pound, turning and basting every ten minutes. If you have a gauze door at the bottom of your gas stove close it, otherwise leave the door partly open or the oven may become too hot; there is danger of the fat catching fire. When partly done dust the fleshy portion with salt and pepper, and baste immediately. If the oven seems too hot as the roasting goes on, turn out the back burner; you will have sufficient heat to finish. Roasting in a Gauze Door Oven Page I45 An illustration of a Gauze Door Oven During a Roasting Process. TO ROAST IN GAUZE DOOR OVEN Place the meat on the rack. Put a pan underneath to catch the dripping. Sear quickly at 4000 Fahr., and then cook slowly at 240 ? Fahr., basting frequently. Dust with salt and pepper when partly done. If you have an oven without the rack, proceed precisely the same as when baking in an ordinary oven. The meat will, however, be roasted, as the gauze door will allow a current of fresh air to pass through without chilling ? the oven. TO BAKE BEEF Under all circumstances, no matter whether with gas, wood, coal, or oil, the oven must be heated to at least 4000 Fahr. before putting in the meat. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, place it in a shallow baking pan, bone side down; dust it lightly with pepper. Put a teaspoonful of salt in one corner of the pan, and sufficient water to just cover the bottom. This will prevent the scorching of the pan while the meat is searing, and will evaporate in a few minutes. As soon as the meatis thoroughly crusted, close the drafts of the stove, cooling off the oven to 2400 Fahr. Baste the meat at once, and every ten minutes during the baking, which will be fifteen minutes to each pound. In about a half hour the bottom of the pan will be covered with melted fat; use this for basting; do not add more water. If the meat is lean and without fat, it is better to baste it with two or three tablespoonfuls of extra fat or dripping which you have saved. When the meat is done, dish it on a hot platter; pour from the pan all the fat, with the exception of four tablespoonfuls, keeping the brown sediment in the pan. To this add two rounding tablespoonfuls of flour;mix until smooth and add hastily a pint of stock or water. Put the pan over the fire, and stir constantly until the mixture boils; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet and a half saltspoonfnl of pepper. Strain into the gravy boat, and send at once to the table. This sauce will be a rich, dark brown, perfectly free from floating fat. The method of baking is precisely the same, no matter what sort of stove is used. A gas oven should be lighted from eight to ten minutes 10 before placing the meat; the oil stove oven, equally long. Place the meat on the rack at least four inches from the bottom of the oven in the two latter stoves. Take notice that you are to baste the meat with the fat that melts and drips to the bottom of the pan, which is usually called dripping. Do not add water to the pan from time to time, as it softens the outside, allowing the juices to escape. The best piece of meat from a selected animal, put into a pan with water, covered and put into a moderately heated oven, will be tasteless, dry and stringy. Do not bake or roast tough or inferior pieces; use them for braising, where water can be used. Pork and veal must be baked much longer than beef, mutton or poultry. I observe that country people depend largely upon pork for their meat, and really prefer it, as it has more flavor. This is true according to the common methods of cooking. Pork will stand long cooking in a slow heat, while beef, to be good, must be quickly seared and cooked without water. Slow cooking intensifies the flavor of pork and entirely destroys the flavor of beef. BOILED BEEF For this use a brisket, the bolar piece or round. Put the trimmings and suet of the meat> into a large kettle; when the fat has tried out, throw in the meat and turn it quickly until the outside is thoroughly seared. Remove the crackling from the fat, and cover the meat with boiling water, bring quickly to boiling point and boil rapidly for five minutes. Push it on the back part of the stove where it cannot again possibly boil, but will simmer at 1600 Fahr.?fifteen minutes to each pound of meat. One hour before the meat is done, add a tablespoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. When done, dish, garnish with cress or carefully boiled cabbage, and send at once to the table. The liquor in which the meat was boiled may be saved for stock, or a portion of it made into brown sauce to serve with the meat Cold, boiled beef may be served plain, cut into thin slices, or made into boudins, croquettes, cecils or meat and potato roll. Brown Stew of Beet Marrow Bones Page I61 An illustration of a Brown Stew of Beef and Marrow Bones. Taking Out the Fillet or Tenderloin Page I43 An illustration of Taking Out the Fillet or Tenderloin. BRAISED BEEF Trim and tie into shape the bolar piece or a thick slice from the under round. Cover the bottom of your braising pan (a double "roasting" pan) with finely chopped onion, put on top the beef add two bay leaves, a bunch of pot-herbs. Add a quart of good stock or water; cover the pan, put it into a quick oven until the meat has browned?about one hour. Then reduce the temperature of the oven and cook slowly for four hours. Serve this with a brown sauce made from the stock in the pan. This may also be cooked without the vegetables, seasoned with salt and pepper. BEEF a la MODE Beef a la mode is simply braised meat that has been highly spiced. The day before you are going to cook the beef, rub it thoroughly with a mixture of a half teaspoonful of cloves, a teaspoonful of ginger, a half teaspoonful of allspice, the same of cinnamon, the same of white pepper. Sprinkle the beef over with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and stand it aside over night. Next day cover the bottom of a braising pan thickly ? with chopped onion and carrot, put on top the beef, add celery seed, bay leaf and two quarts of good stock. Water may be used, but is never so nice. Add a calf 's foot that has been carefully cracked, or two tablespoonfuls of gelatin that have been soaked in cold water for a half hour. Cover the pan, put it into a quick oven, and when the meat has slightly browned, reduce the temperature of the oven to about 212? Fahr. Cook the meat slowly for four hours, basting frequently. Serve with a brown sauce made from the stock in the pan. That which is left over will be cut into thin slices and served cold, garnished with aspic jelly and either chopped tomato or cream horseradish sauce. Beef a la mode is exceedingly nice warm weather meat, as the spices prevent it from decomposing and will keep in a perfectly fresh condition in a good refrigerator for one week. TO BROIL STEAK For broiling, select either a sirloin, porterhouse, or rump steak at least two inches thick. The first two are much the same, differing only in size. Trim off a portion of the suet, scrape the outside fat, and just cut through the " skin " here and there to prevent shrinking. Do not moisten the steak; it is not necessary to even wipe it with a damp cloth, as it has just been cut from the fresh piece of beef. OVER A COAL FIRE See that the fire is perfectly free from gas, the coals bright and red. Open the draft at the bottom of the fire box and remove the top lids on the front of the stove. Put the steak in a wire broiler, fasten and place it near the fire; sear quickly on one side, turn and sear it on the other; and turn it each twenty seconds for three minutes. Lift the steak now at least six inches from the fire; cook slowly for five minutes on one side, turn and cook five minutes on the other. A broiler rack or holder will enable one now to leave the steak for a few minutes. Have on the back part of the stove an iron platter or some ordinary dish ready to receive the steak. In this dish put a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoon-ful of pepper, and if you like rub the bottom of the dish with a clove of garlic. Lift the hot steak immediately to this dish, baste it well with the seasoning. Have ready heated the serving platter; lift the steak carefully to the centre of the serving-platter, and pour over the butter and ? seasoning that is left in the first dish. Garnish with two thin slices of lemon that have been covered with finely chopped parsley, or cress and potato balls , or it may be served plain. Send at once to the table. A steak two inches in thickness will require twenty minutes for broiling; one and a half inches, twelve minutes; one inch, ten minutes. A steak thinner than this, will not give good results. TO BROIL WITH GAS Light the oven five minutes before placing the steak. See that the broiling pan and rack are underneath in their proper places. Prepare the steak as directed in preceding recipe. When the broiler is hot draw it out; place the steak; put it as near the gas flame as possible, without its touching. As soon as the steak is seared carefully and thoroughly on one side, draw out the pan and with a fork, sticking it as near the edge as possible, turn and sear the other side. Turn the steak again. Lower the pan now about six inches from the burners, turn them half way down, broil slowly for five minutes, turn and broil five minutes on the other side. Season and serve precisely the same as in preceding recipe. A steak carefully broiled under a gas flame is to my mind a steak cooked to perfection. TO BROIL WITH AN OILSTOVE Here the operation is entirely different, and is more like the pan broil than in the preceding cases. The steak, of course, has not the same fine flavor, but it is the best we can do with an oil stove. Put over one of the top burners a large iron spider or baking pan. Prepare the steak the same as for broiling over coal or gas. When the pan has reached almost a white heat, rub it quickly with a piece of suet and throw in the steak. As soon as it has seared carefully on this side, turn it on the other. When seared, turn it backwards and forwards almost constantly (always sticking the fork in the skin or near the bone, otherwise the juice will escape) for five minutes, during which time you have had the oven lighted and heating. The oven is now very hot; run the steak at once into the oven as near the bottom as possible; allow it to cook five minutes, or less, according to the thickness; draw it out, turn, and cook five minutes longer. Season and serve the same as in preceding recipe. OVER CHARCOAL In many parts of the central west, where wood is used entirely for cooking purposes, broiling is most easily done. It is a well-known fact that steak is sweeter and better broiled over char- coal than with any other fuel, save gas. Half fill the fire box with good hardwood. When the wood is well lighted and mostly burned to the centre, check the draft so as to form charcoal at red heat. Then open the drafts of the stove, remove the lids and broil precisely the same as you would over a coal fire. If your stove has a hearth in front, the coals may be drawn out into the hearth and the broiling done there. In this way you do not interfere with the fire; cooking may go on the same as though you were not broiling. TO PAN BROIL Persons doing light housekeeping use frequently a "flat top" gas stove, or a small wood, oil or coal stove which will not allow the removing of the lids; pan broiling then is the next best method of cooking a steak. Put a cast iron pan over the fire until it is very hot. Rub it lightly with a piece of suet and put in the steak. When seared on one side, turn and sear on the other, and turn constantly until the meat is done. For this we prefer a steak not over one inch in thickness. Five to seven minutes will be sufficient for cooking. If you allow it to remain on one side any length of time, the fat will melt and the steak will be fried rather than broiled. We do not fry steaks in this the twentieth century; we have learned better. Dish the steak; dust it lightly with salt and pepper. Into the pan in which it was cooked, put a tablespoonful of butter or suet and a table-spoonful of flour; mix carefully; add a half pint of stock or water, stir until boiling, and add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and pour it over the steak. Or you may simply add to the pan in which it was cooked four tablespoonfuls of stock; stir over the fire, getting all the browning from the bottom of the pan, and pour it over the meat; or, it may be served the same as a broiled steak. STEAKa la BORDELAISE 1 nice sirloin steak 1/2 pint of stock 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter Dash of cayenne 1 marrow bone 6 fresh mushrooms 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Put the butter in a saucepan; add the mushrooms whole. Cover the saucepan and stand on the back part of the stove where the [illustration] Porterhouse Steak Page 148 An illustration of a Porterhouse Steak Garnished. Porterhouse or Sirloin Steak, before Trimming Page 143 An illustration of a Porterhouse or Sirloin Steak, before Trimming. Sirloin Steak, Pan Broiled Page 150 butter cannot possibly brown until the mushrooms are tender Push them to one side of the pan; add the flour to the butter; mix until smooth; add the stock. When boiling, add the salt pepper, kitchen bouquet, and stand over hot water while you broil the steak. The marrow bones will have been boiled the day before, the marrow shaken out and cut into slices. Place these on a dish and stand in the oven or over hot water. As soon as the steak is broiled, lift it to the serving dish, dust lightly with salt and pepper, and cover it with the slices of marrow. Arrange the mushrooms in the centre and around the steak; strain over the sauce. Garnish the dish with parsley and send at once to the table. STEAK WITH FRESH MUSHROOM SAUCE Wash and cut into quarters a half-pound of fresh mushrooms. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; add the mushrooms and sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoon-ful of pepper. Cover the saucepan, and cook slowly on the back part of the stove for twenty minutes. Do not lift the lid more than once during this time or the flavor of the mushrooms will escape. Put one tablespoonful of flour into a bowl, add gradually a little cold milk or stock. When perfectly smooth, add a half cup of stock or milk; strain this into the mushrooms; stir until boiling, and take from the fire; add a half tablespoonful of butter, and pour over the steak, which will have been broiling during this time. Try to have both done at the same time. The sauce, however, can wait with less injury than the steak. STEAKWITH CANNED MUSHROOMS Put one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour into a saucepan; mix; add a half pint of stock; stir until it reaches the boiling point; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a saltspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup and a half can of mushrooms. Stand these over hot water while you broil the steak. As soon as the steak is dished, pour over the sauce, garnish the dish with potato balls and parsley, and send at once to the table. STEAK WITH OYSTERS Select twenty-five oysters; drain, wash and drain again. Trim the steak, which should be about an inch and a half in thickness. When the steak has broiled for five minutes, dust with salt and pepper, baste with butter, and cover it over with the oysters, and without delay run it into a very hot oven for ten minutes. Dish without removing the oysters, baste thoroughly with the juice that is in the bottom of the pan, and send at once to the table. The oysters should have the gills thoroughly curled and be slightly browned. STEAK WITH ONIONS Cut into thin slices Bermuda, Spanish, or the ordinary brown skinned onions. Separate the slices into the natural rings. Have ready a kettle of hot fat. Put a few of the onions at a time in a frying basket; plunge them into the hot fat and sort of lift the basket up and down until the onions are crisp and brown. Throw them into a colander, dust lightly with salt, and stand in the oven to drain while you broil the steak. In fact, if you are an expert cook you will manage both onions and steak at the same time. When the steak is broiled, dish, dust with salt and pepper, put over a little butter and heap over the fried onions. The onions must be dry and crisp. STEAK WITH ONIONS (GERMAN FASHION) Slice the onions and separate them as in preceding recipe; cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and cook slowly for twenty minutes, and drain. When perfectly dry throw them into a hot saucepan. When they have lost a portion of the water, add a tablespoonful of butter, stir the onions in this butter until they are slightly brown, and stand them aside while you broil the steak. When the steak is broiled, season, cover it over with the onions, and send at once to the table. STEAK en CASSEROLE For this select a round steak. The round, on account of the development of the muscle, cannot be broiled and served to good advantage, as it is tough and difficult of mastication. It is one of the pieces best adapted to moist heat. Have the steak cut at least one inch thick, then into pieces two inches square. To each two pounds of steak allow 1/2 pint of small white onions 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley I good-sized carrot I turnip I teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper I saltspoonful of celery seed Peel the onion, cut the carrot and turnip into fancy shapes or they may be cut into dice. In the bottom of the casserole dish put a layer of mixed vegetables. Put an iron pan over the fire to heat. When hot, rub the bottom with suet as you would for pan broiling, throw in the bits of steak, sear them quickly on both sides, lift and put them into the casserole mold, on top of the layer of vegetables, cover over all the remaining vegetables, add all the seasonings and a pint of boiling stock. Cover the dish and stand it in a quick oven to bake for one hour. Steak en casserole is served in the dish in which it is cooked. The steak will be brown and tender, the vegetables slightly brown and the stock nearly absorbed. You may, if you like, add kitchen bouquet to the stock; it aids in the browning of the vegetables and adds to the flavoring. Some housewives are sufficiently unwise to use for this dish slices of fillet; it is, however, a great extravagance, as the round is much lower in price, and gives excellent results. BEEFSTEAK PIE 2 pounds of the round or flank of beef 1/2 pint of flour I tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1/4 pound of suet I onion 1/2 Pint of stock I teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Cut the meat into squares of one inch; chop fine the parsley and onion. Put the meat into a deep baking dish; sprinkle over the parsley, onion, salt and pepper. Free the suet from membrane; chop it fine, adding gradually the flour, add a saltspoonful of salt and sufficient ice water to moisten. The crust must not be wet Knead for a moment, and roll out in a sheet sufficiently large to cover the baking dish. Over the meat pour the stock which by this time has reached the boding point; place on top the crust, making an opening in the centre. Brush with milk or beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven one and a quarter hours. Many English cooks prefer to make a brown sauce instead of adding the stock. This is done by mixing a table-spoonful of butter and one of flour, adding the hot stock and a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Use in the place of the plain stock. ROUND STEAK WITH TOMATO SAUCE Make the sauce according to the recipe given, and stand it over hot water while the steak is being cooked. Select the upper tender portion of the round, have it cut one inch in thickness, and pan it according to the directions given, or it may be broiled over a very quick fire. Dish, pour over the tomato sauce, and serve at once. Caution.?Round steak must go to the table and be carved while it is still very hot. Many tender steaks may be placed in the oven just a moment, but a round steak becomes tough if chilled, or allowed to stand even five minutes. STEAK a la FLAMANDE Select a flank or "skirt" steak, or a slice from the upper portion of the round. Chop one good-sized onion and a table-spoonful of parsley; mix together a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Sprinkle the bottom of the baking pan with a little of the onion, place on top the trimmed steak, brush it with an egg slightly beaten with a tablespoonful of warm water, and then put over the remaining portion of onion and parsley. Add a half cup of stock, to which you have added the salt and pepper. Run this into a very quick oven, and cook for thirty minutes. Dish the steak. Put into the pan a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed together; add half cup of stock, bring to boiling point, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet and strain over the steak. This may be garnished with cress, cooked carrots, or carrots and turnips mixed, or you may use a mixture of vegetables that have been left over from the previous day; simply heat and place them as a garnish around the steak before pouring over the sauce. STUFFED STEAK Purchase a slice a half inch thick from the upper round; cut it into halves crosswise. Over the lower half sprinkle finely chopped parsley, a dusting of pepper and here and there a half teaspoonful of butter. Chop very fine a quarter of a pound of cold boiled tongue, and place it in the centre of the steak. Put on top of this the other half; fasten together by deep stitches all around the edge; use a trussing or darning needle. Cover the top thickly with chopped onion, and place the steak in a baking pan. Put in the pan a half cup of water or stock and the bits of suet that were trimmed from the steak. Bake in a quick oven three-quarters of an hour, basting three or four times; sprinkle over a half teaspoonful of salt at the last basting. When done, dish carefully, remove the strings, and pour over a brown sauce made in the pan. MOCK FILLET I flank steak . 1/2 pint of stock I teaspoonful of salt I tablespoonful of chopped bouquet I tablespoonful of butter I tablespoonful of flour I saltspoonful of pepper I teaspoonful of kitchen parsley Trim the steak, sprinkle over it the parsley, and if you wish to have it exceedingly nice, a half can of mushrooms chopped fine. Roll the steak the long way, tying or stitching to keep it in shape. Place it in the baking pan, add the stock and all the seasoning. Bake in a very quick oven three-quarters of an hour, basting every ten minutes. When done dish and remove the string. Rub the butter and flour together; put it into the pan from which the steak was taken, and add sufficient stock to make a half pint. When this is boiling add the kitchen bou- quet and strain it over the roll. This may also be served with tomato sauce or mushroom sauce, or may have a bread stuffing in place of the parsley; then, of course, it will be a "ROLLED Stuffed Steak. " BEEF OLIVES I thin steak from the round I tablespoonful of chopped parsley I tablespoonful of butter I tablespoonful of flour 1/2 cup of fine bread crumbs I pint of stock I teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1/2 teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Cut the steak into strips four inches long and two inches wide. Put the bread crumbs into a bowl; add a half tea-spoonful of salt; a dash of pepper, and sufficient melted butter (extra) to moisten. Spread each slice with bread crumbs, roll them up compactly and tie with twine. Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, mix, add the stock; when boiling add the kitchen bouquet and the " olives, " as they are now called. Bring this to boiling point; push it on the back part of the stove where it will simmer gently for one hour; then add the salt and pepper, and if you like, a bay leaf and a tablespoonful of chopped onion; cook slowly thirty minutes longer. When ready to serve, heap in the centre of the platter a mound of either mashed potatoes or boiled rice. Put the olives around as a garnish and fill the bottom of the dish with the strained brown sauce. Send it at once to the table. Be careful to remove the strings. HAMBURG STEAK 2 pounds of lean beef I rounding teaspoonful of salt I tablespoonful of grated onion I saltspoonful of pepper Purchase the upper portion of the round or the rump steak; trim off the fat and skin and put the meat twice through a meat chopper; add the pepper and onion, and form at once into small steaks, being careful to have them of even thickness. Place these on the broiler, broil over a slow fire for ten minutes. It takes longer to broil a Hamburg steak one inch thick than it does an ordinary steak of the same thickness. Dish on a Portion of the Loin Page 143 1 Sirloin 2 Kidney Fat 3 Tenderloin An illustration of a Portion of the Loin. Cutting Beef for Hamburg Steaks Page 156 An illustration of a Chopper, Cutting Beef for Hamburg Steaks. heated plate, dust with salt, put a little butter on top of each and send at once to the table; or, they may have poured over them tomato sauce, or you may serve them with brown or sweet pepper sauce. Where broiling is out of the question, these may be pan broiled. ALMOND STEAK 2 pounds of lean beef I level teaspoonful of salt 1/4 pound of blanched almonds I saltspoonful of pepper Trim the meat; put it through the meat chopper, adding also the almonds; mix thoroughly; add the salt and pepper; form into one large steak, either oblong or round. Put it at once into a pan that has been heated and the bottom slightly greased with suet. Run it into a quick oven and bake twenty minutes. When it is partly done, place over the top a few bits of butter. When done dish and send at once to the table. BEEF AND POTATO ROLL (CANNELON) I pound of beef 1/2 pint of chopped cold boiled Potatoes I teaspoonful of salt I egg Tomato sauce I saltspoonful of pepper Remove from the beef all the surplus fat and skin; put it twice through the meat chopper. Add to it salt, pepper, chopped potatoes and the egg unbeaten. Mix thoroughly and form into a roll about six inches long. Roll this in a piece of oiled paper; place it in a baking pan, add a half cup of stock and a table-spoonful of butter. Bake for a half hour, basting once or twice over the paper. When done, remove the paper, dish the roll and pour over it either tomato or brown sauce. This is one of the nicest cheap dishes for lunch. MINCED BEEF (SPANISH STYLE) 2 pounds of lean beef 3 good-sized tomatoes I egg I teaspoonful of salt 1/2 dozen sweet peppers I onion I tablespoonful of butter I saltspoonful of pepper Put the meat twice through the meat chopper; add to it the egg, salt and pepper. Work this well together and form it into a box, the bottom and sides of which are about one inch in thickness. Place this on oiled paper in the bottom of a baking pan; run it into a very quick oven for thirty minutes, basting once or twice with a little melted butter. Have ready the filling, in fact, it is better to make this first, and keep it hot over water. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. Add the onion that has been chopped fine and the peppers that have been cut into strips; stew on the back part of the stove for twenty minutes. Peel, cut the tomatoes into halves and press out the seeds. Cut the flesh into three or four pieces, add to the pepper mixture, cook twenty minutes longer, add salt and pepper. When ready to serve the box, lift it carefully, put it into the centre of a heated platter and fill it with the stuffing. Send at once to the table. This is sightly, economical and palatable. SMOTHERED BEEF 2 pounds of lean beef 1 level teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper Free the meat from the surplus fat and skin; chop it very fine. Put it at once into a heated iron pan and run it into a quick oven for fifteen minutes, stirring it once or twice. Add the butter, salt and pepper, and serve at once with a garnish of corn pudding . BRAISED RIBS of BEEF For this use the end from the rib roast. Cut through between each rib. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; when hot add an onion sliced, one carrot and turnip cut into dice; shake until brown, add the ribs and one quart of good stock. Cover and simmer one hour, then add a tea-spoonful of kitchen bouquet, one of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and two bay leaves. Simmer one hour longer. Lift the vegetables with a skimmer, put them in the centre of a chop plate, dish the ribs around; outside of this put a border of mashed sweet or white potatoes . Thicken the sauce with two tablespoonfuls of flour, moistened, and strain it over the centre; cover with chopped parsley. DEVILED RIBS After the meat has been taken from the roast of beef and the ribs are left containing that sweet portion of the meat between, they may be made into deviled ribs and served for lunch. Saw the ribs, if possible, into lengths of four inches; two ribs will make four pieces. Dust them with salt and pepper, brush with melted butter and then cover them thickly with finely chopped green peppers. Place these on a broiler and over a quick fire until they are a nice brown, and send at once to the table. KIBBEE 2 pounds of lean beef 1/2 cup of pinon nuts 1 teaspoonful of salt 4 good-sized tomatoes or a pint of stewed tomatoes 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the meat very fine, add the salt, pepper and nuts. Mix and form into balls about two inches in diameter. Stand these in a baking pan, pour over the strained tomatoes. If you use raw tomatoes simply peel, remove the seeds and cut them into pieces. Bake in a quick oven thirty minutes, basting frequently. When ready to serve, dish the balls, add to the tomato a table-spoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed together; when boiling add a half teaspoonful of salt and strain this over the balls. EGYPTIAN CYLINDERS A jar of macedoine or 1 pint of mixed cooked vegetables 1/2 cup of bread crumbs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 pound of uncooked meat 1 cup of pinon nuts or 24 almonds 1 onion 1/2 pint of stock 1 teaspoonful of curry powder A dash of pepper Chop the meat very fine, add the almonds chopped , bread crumbs, salt, pepper and curry. Mix well and form into cylinders four inches long and as thick as your two fingers. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add the onion chopped; cook until the onion is tender, then put in carefully the cylinders and allow them to cook on the back part of the stove where they cannot possibly brown, for fifteen or twenty minutes. Put the other tablespoonful of butter with the flour in a saucepan, mix and add the stock, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet and the cooked vegetables. When this is very hot dish carefully the cylinders, add the mixture, in which the cylinders were cooked, to the brown sauce and pour it around the edge of the platter as a garnish. They are also very nice served with sweet pepper sauce. CURRY BALLS 1 pound of uncooked beef 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour I level teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of curry I onion 1/2 pint of strained tomato 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the meat fine; make it into small balls the size of an English walnut. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add the onion, let it cook slowly without browning until the onion is soft, add the curry powder, put in the balls and shake them carefully over a quick fire for ten minutes. Put the other tablespoonful of butter and flour in a saucepan, add salt, mix and add the tomato. When boiling strain this over the curry balls, cover, cook for five minutes. Serve in a border of boiled rice. BEEF PATS IN A CHAFING DISH 1 pound of beef 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1/2 pint of stock 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the raw beef fine and form into cakes the size of a silver dollar. Put the butter into the blazer. When hot, drop in the pats, brown on one side, turn quickly and brown on the other. Push them to one side of the dish; add the flour to the butter, mix, add the stock and all the seasoning. Cover the chafing dish and cook slowly for five minutes, and they are ready to serve. BEEF LOAF 4 pounds of the round 1 pint of bread crumbs 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley 1 level teaspoonful of pepper 4 eggs 1 good-sized onion 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of salt Chop the meat very fine; add all the ingredients and mix well; add the eggs unbeaten. Pack this down into a square bread pan until it takes the shape of the pan. Turn it out carefully into a greased baking or roasting pan and bake it in a moderately quick oven for two hours, basting every fifteen minutes with a little hot stock : When done stand away until perfectly cold. Serve, cut in thin slices with cream horseradish or cold tomato sauce. BROWN STEW OF BEEF 2 pounds of beef 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 small carrot 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 ounces of suet 1 pint of stock 1 onion 1 bay leaf 1 saltspoonful of pepper Before beginning, take into consideration that seasonings play an important part in the recipe, but are by no means arbitrary. If the kitchen is without bay leaves (I hope it is not, as they are cheap and accessible), do without them. If you are without onion, or you have a particular dislike to onion, leave it out; it plays no part in the making of the recipe. The butter, flour, liquid and meat must be kept in the proportions given. Cut the meat into cubes of one inch; roll them in one table-spoonful of flour. Put the suet into the saucepan; shake it over the fire until it is well melted. Remove the crackling and throw in the meat; shake until it has slightly browned or until the outside of each piece is thoroughly seared to retain the juices. Draw the meat to one side of the saucepan; add the other tablespoonful of flour to the fat in the bottom of the pan; mix and acid the stock. Stir this until boiling; add all the seasoning, cover the pan and stand it where it will simmer (18o? Fahr.) for about one and a half hours, or until the meat is tender. Ten minutes before serving make the DUMPLINGS Put into a bowl one pint of flour with which you have sifted a rounding teaspoonful of baking powder and a half teaspoonful of salt; add about two-thirds of a cup of milk. Take the bowl and a teaspoon to the side of the fire and drop the mixture all over the top of the stew by teaspoonfuls. Cover the saucepan and cook slowly for ten minutes without lifting the lid. Dish by putting the dumplings around the edge of the platter; the stew in the centre, straining over the sauce; dust with a little chopped parsley, and send at once to the table. This stew may be varied by using strained tomato in the place of stock. Water may be added in the place of stock, but the stew will be of inferior quality. FRENCH POT-AU-FEU 1 leg of beef 2 onions 1/2 pint of peas 2 good-sized carrots 1 turnip 1 saltspoonful of celery seed or a half pint of chopped celery I bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wipe the shin thoroughly with a clamp cloth. Remove the meat from the bones; put the bones in the bottom of the soup kettle and the meat on top. Cover with four quarts of cold water; bring quickly to boiling point and skim. Push the kettle to the back part of the stove where it will simmer (18o? Fahr.) for three hours. During this time cut the turnip and carrots into fancy shapes. Shell the peas, or if you use canned peas they may be put in at the last moment. Slice the onions, put them in with the meat, add the bay leaf and all the other seasonings. Cover and simmer gently one hour longer. A half-hour before serving time strain the soup, take out the meat, and stand it where it will keep warm while you prepare the sauce. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour in a saucepan, mix, add one pint of stock; stir until boiling; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a teaspoon-ful of kitchen bouquet. Add to this all the vegetables that have been strained from the soup; stand the mixture over hot water until wanted. The soup will be seasoned and served either plain or with croutons as soup at the beginning of the dinner. Dish the meat in the centre of a large platter; put the vegetables at the ends of the platter, heaping them towards the meat. Pour over the sauce. Serve with this boiled rice or plain boiled potatoes. MUTTON Mutton, like beef, is divided first into halves; then each half into hind and fore quarters. The hind quarter is sub-divided into a leg and loin, and the fore quarter into head, neck, shoulder, rack and breast. The saddle of mutton comprises the two loins cut from the dividing line between 4 and 6 back to the rump. It embraces the whole upper back portion of the sheep and is considered the most elegant of roasts. Mutton is much better if "hung" at least ten days. In the winter this can be done in any cool, dry place; in the summer it must be in "cold storage" or a refrigerator. The flesh of good mutton should be bright red in color, with fat firm and white; and the fatter the mutton the more tender the leaner parts. Good Southdown mutton is considered the best. For baking or roasting select the saddle, or the rack, 4, or loin, 6, or shoulder, 3, or the leg, 8. The best cooks, however, agree that the leg and shoulder are spoiled when not boiled. The neck-makes the best and the cheapest piece for stewing, pillau and broths of all kinds. The head may be used the same as a calf's head for soups and stews and is always one of the ingredients in haggis. French chops are taken from rack, 4. Loin chops come from 6. Both of these are broiled. For plain boiling, the leg is first choice, the shoulder the second. Many epicures, however, prefer the shoulder to the leg. The feet or legs of the sheep from the upper part of the hoof to the knee joints are known as the "sheep's trotters," and are used for jellies and pickling, "soused." LAMB Lamb is the young of mutton. Spring lamb being much smaller than mutton is divided into halves and quarters only, and is sold and cooked in these quantities. The "fore" quarter is considered the better. The very early lamb is called "house lamb." The "lamb chops" sold in our markets are chops from young sheep, sometimes from small thin mutton, not spring lamb. Serve with lamb, mint sauce, peas, asparagus and new potatoes with cream sauce. BOILED LEG of MUTTON Select a good-sized leg of mutton ?small legs are not good. Wipe with a damp cloth. Plunge it into a kettle of boiling water, and boil rapidly for five minutes, then push it on the back part of the stove where it will simmer at 1800 Fahr. for twenty minutes to each pound. When done dish, trimming with a quilling of paper, garnish with cress or parsley and serve with caper sauce in a boat. Serve also with this plain boiled rice and stewed turnips, or peas, or asparagus tips, or cauliflower. A boiled leg of mutton may also be garnished with suet dumplings. TO STUFF A LEG of MUTTON I leg of mutton 1 pint of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of parsley 1 teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepperv 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 clove of garlic 1/2 pint of pinon nuts Remove the bone from the leg of mutton and wipe the outside carefully with a damp cloth. Put the bread crumbs into a bowl, add the salt, pepper, pinon nuts and garlic, mashed; pour over it the butter, melted. Stuff this into the space from which the bone was taken. Roast, bake, or braise the leg and serve Lamb or Mutton Page 163 An illustration of a Mutton with its Body Divided in Different Parts and Each Part Numbered. 1 Head 2 Neck 3 Shoulder 4 Rack 5 Breast 6 Loin, Best End 7 Loin, Bone End 8 Leg 9 Flank with it, rice croquettes, or browned sweet potatoes and scal- . loped tomatoes, or stewed turnips. If braised serve with it a vegetable hash. TO PRESERVE MUTTON HAMS OR LEGS Select fine large legs, wipe them with a damp cloth and then with a dry, clean towel. Allow to each leg weighing about ten pounds one-half pound of good salt, one ounce of saltpetre a half pound of brown sugar. Mix these together, holding the vessel over a kettle of hot water. Arrange the legs on a board in the cellar, tipping it just a little. Rub the meat all over with this mixture, allow it to stand for two or three days, turning and rubbing each day. The mixture will be sufficient for three or four rubbings for six legs. Now make another mixture, allowing to each leg a half pound of brown sugar, a half pound of salt, one ounce of ground cloves. Hold this mixture over the fire just a moment. Wipe the legs with a dry cloth, then rub them with the second mixture. Have ready a perfectly clean tub: put the legs into it, cover and for two weeks turn and baste them several times with the liquor that has formed in the tub. They may now be smoked the same as ordinary hams, put into bags and hung in a cool, dry place. To cook, boil, or chip and frizzle the same as dried beef. CROWN ROAST This is made from the entire "rack" of mutton. The upper portions of the bones are trimmed, and the joints and meat cut through only to the skin. The roast is then folded inside out, as it were, and fastened together. Cover the tops of the bones with a piece of folded, oiled paper. Stand the roast in a bakmg pan. Dissolve a half teaspoonful of salt in a half cup of water Add this to the pan and bake in a quick oven three-quarter of an hour, basting frequently. While this is roasting, boil and mash six good-sized potatoes . Beat until very light. Dish the roast, remove the strings and the paper. Fill the centre with mashed potatoes , garnish the outside with nicely cooked green peas. Cover each bone with a little quill of paper and send at once to the table. For a large family or a large number of people two racks may be fastened to form one roast. BOILED SHOULDER OF MUTTON This may be boiled precisely the same as the leg. Serve with cream sauce. It may also be stuffed with pinon nuts; take out the bone and boil fifteen minutes longer. Serve with boiled shoulder, boiled rice, baked tomatoes, peas, cauliflower, spinach or stewed turnips. SHOULDER OF MUTTONWITH BROWN POTATOES 1 shoulder of mutton v 6 medium-sized Potatoes I teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper 2 good-sized onions. Wipe the shoulder, place it in a baking pan, dust with pepper; put around it the potatoes , peeled. Put in the bottom of the pan one-half pint of water. Run it in a quick oven, and when it is nicely browned reduce the heat of the oven to 2400 Fahr. Sprinkle the potatoes and meat with the salt, cook slowly for one hour, basting frequently with the fat in the bottom of the pan. When done dish the mutton, arrange the potatoes around it and serve with a brown sauce made in the pan in which the meat was cooked. BREAST of MUTTON 1 breast of mutton 2 onions 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 pint of green peas 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Separate the breast between the ribs; put them into a stewing pan and shake until they are a nice brown. Add the butter and flour mixed, and one quart of stock; add all the seasonings. Cover and simmer gently until the mutton is tender-about one hour. Then add the peas and cook twenty minutes Lift the meat, put it in the centre of a platter, strain the sauce over it put the peas around near the meat, and outside of this a roll of carefully boiled rice. This forms an admirable dish for six or eight persons at a cost of ten or fifteen cents. BAKED LOIN of MUTTON Bake according to the rules for baking. The loin takes its weight in length rather than in thickness, so that one hour and a half will be quite sufficient time for baking, no matter what its weight. Serve with it brown sauce in a boat, boiled rice, stuffed tomatoes or plain stewed tomatoes, or creamed turnips. BROILED CHOPS Proceed the same as for a broiled steak. The loin and rack chops will be treated in precisely the same manner. French chops are loin chops, trimmed. Save the trimmings for stock. An English or Southdown chop will be two inches thick and will require fifteen minutes. The ordinary American chops are not over half an inch thick and will require ten minutes. Serve with tomato sauce in the bottom of the dish, and plain creamed potatoes , or plain with peas or asparagus tips. In the ordinary gas range they will be broiled precisely the same as steak. With an oil stove they must be dry panned. Great care, however, must be taken, as mutton is much fatter than beef and is more liable to fry. Have the chops thin and cook them quickly; season and serve immediately. MASKED CHOPS Select French chops and have them neatly trimmed. Have ready some boiled mashed potatoes , nicely seasoned. Beat the potatoes until very light; broil the chops quickly for five minutes. While they are warm heap the mashed potatoes into a mound on one side of the lean portion of each. Dip them into a beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs, and plunge into hot fat for about two minutes. Decorate the bones with quills of paper, heap them in the centre of a chop dish, fill the spaces with nicely cooked peas and send at once to the table. This makes an exceedingly nice luncheon dish? meat and two vegetables served in one dish at the same time. MASKED CHOPS, No. 2 Select and broil the chops as in preceding recipe. Have ready a force meat made by adding one can of mushrooms, chopped fine, to one gill of thick white sauce. Use for the sauce one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, a half cup (1 gill) of milk; add a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Heap the mixture on top of the warm chops. Dip, fry, and serve with peas the same as in preceding recipe. BROILED CHOPS' "HEARTS" WITH MUSHROOMS 12 French chops 1 pound of mushrooms 12 slices of bread 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 gill of milk Wash the mushrooms and cut them into four or five pieces. Put them into a stewing pan with the butter, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cover closely and cook for twenty minutes. Moisten the flour gradually with the milk; when smooth add to the mushrooms; bring to boiling point, cover and push to the back of the stove. Cut from the chops just the lean portion. This will give you a piece about the size of a silver dollar. Cut from each slice of bread with a round cutter a piece that will allow a margin of half an inch outside the mutton. Toast the bread carefully, and arrange it on a heated platter. Broil the " hearts " as you would chops. When done, dust each with salt and pepper and arrange them on the toast, pour over the mushrooms, garnish with peas, and send at once to the table. This is one of the most elegant of mutton dishes. SCOTCH STEW 2 necks of mutton 1 onion I bay leaf 1 quart of strained tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls of suet 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet Cut the necks into convenient pieces. Put the suet into a stewing pan and shake over the fire until it is nearly melted; remove the "cracklings," put in the pieces of mutton, shake until they are seared on all sides. Draw them to one side. Add the flour to the fat and mix; add the tomatoes. Stir until boiling; add all the seasoning; cover the pan and simmer gently at about 18o? Fahr. for one and a half hours. Serve in a border of boiled rice; serve also boiled or baked onions with cream sauce. BLANQUETTE OF MUTTON 1 breast of mutton I quart of water or stock I small onion I head of celery I bay leaf Yolks of two eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Divide the breast between the ribs; put these into a stewing pan, add the celery cut into pieces, and cover with the boiling water or stock; add the onion and bay leaf; cover, bring to boiling point and boil rapidly for five minutes; then cook slowly, below boiling point, for one hour. Rub the butter and flour together; add one pint of the water in which the breast was cooked; stir until boiling. Dish the breast neatly in the centre of the platter; put over it the celery; heap around it a border of nicely boiled rice, or a border of mashed potatoes ; add to the sauce a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the yolks of the two eggs, slightly beaten. Strain this over the meat, dust with the chopped parsley and send at once to the table. The sauce cannot be boiled after the eggs are added. Baked tomatoes may be served with this; the dish is complete, however, as it is. MUTTON a la DAUBE 2 necks of mutton 1 pint of bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of mixed herbs Wipe the necks, and make a pocket under the fat portion. Make a stuffing of the bread crumbs, seasonings, and a table-spoonful of melted butter. Put this into the pockets, sew them up and place at once in a pan; add a pint of stock or water, one onion, sliced, two bay leaves. Cover the pan and cook in a moderately quick oven two hours. Serve with a brown sauce made from the water in the pan. This recipe will answer for any cheap pieces of beef, or for neck of veal. Serve with it macaroni or rice and parsnips, or salsify, or corn. HAGGIS 1 sheep's heart 1 tongue 1 small liver 1 pound of bacon 1 pint of bread crumbs 2 eggs 2 sardines or anchovies 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper Grated yellow rind of lemon Wash the heart, tongue and liver, put them through the meat chopper with the bacon. Then add the crumbs and sardines, lemon rind, salt and pepper. Beat the eggs until well mixed, add with the juice of the lemon, and add them to the whole. Mix thoroughly and put the mixture into the pouch of the sheep, which has been thoroughly cleaned; or put it into a kettle or mold and boil or steam continuously for two hours. Turn out on a large dish, and serve plain with brown sauce in a boat. Pass brown or corn bread and apple sauce. HOT POT 1 shoulder of mutton 1 1/2 pounds of Potatoes 2 good-sized onions 1/4 pound codfish or 3 sardines 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 small, red pepper Cut the meat from the shoulder into squares of two inches. Cover this over the bottom of a deep baking dish. Pare and cut the potatoes into dice. Put a layer over the top of the mutton, then a layer of chopped onions, then fish, then a dusting of salt and pepper. Then another layer of mutton and so continue until all the ingredients are used, having the last layer potatoes . Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, add a pint of stock, stir until boiling and pour over the ingredients in the pan. Bake in a slow oven three hours. Loin chops are sometimes used for this dish and layers of oysters frequently substituted for fish. Serve plain cabbage or kale , or creamed cabbage or turnips, or spinach. SHEEP'S HEAD A sheep's head may be used and dressed precisely the same as a calf 's head, but two heads must be served in the place of one calf's head. The hearts, liver and kidneys may also be served as calves ' hearts, liver or kidneys. They are much less in price and very good. SHEEP'S TROTTERS 4 large-sized trotters 1/2 cupful of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Wash the trotters, put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, bring to the boiling point and skin. Cook gently for two hours. Take out the trotters and remove the bones carefully. Put the meat into a baking pan, cover over a layer of bread crumbs, a dusting of salt, pepper and parsley, then another of meat and so continue, having the last layer crumbs. Baste with sufficient of the liquor to be seen at the top. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour and send to the table in the baking dish. This is exceedingly good with a layer of tomatoes between the trotters and crumbs, or tomato sauce basted over the top instead of the liquor. Serve as a supper dish with corn or oatmeal bread. SHEEP HEAD CHEESE 2 sheep's heads 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 teaspoonful of summer savory 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Wash the heads thoroughly, being careful to clean the nasal and throat passage. Split them into halves, and remove the tongues. Put the heads and tongues in a soup kettle, and cover them with cold water. Cover, boil and skin; cook slowly for two hours or until the bones fall from the meat. Take out the bones with a skimmer. Chop the meat rather fine and add the seasoning to it. Put into a colander a strong, good-sized piece of muslin. Turn into it the mixture. Let it drip for a while (there should be very little liquor); then fold over and tie the cloth tightly. Place it in the cold. To serve remove the cloth, cut the cheese into thin slices and pass with it tomato or lettuce salad. This is cheap, rather nutritious and economical. It may be made on Saturday for Sunday's supper, or used as a lunch dish. LAMB'S KIDNEYS Cut the kidneys into halves without really separating them and remove the white tubes. Place one on a skewer, then a slice of bacon, then another kidney. Baste with butter and broil for five minutes on a clear fire. Put over a little more butter and send to the table on a very hot dish. Pass toast or brown bread. These may be served for breakfast, lunch or supper. LAMBS' SWEETBREADS Lambs ' sweetbreads may be cooked the same as calves ' sweetbreads. Follow any of the rules given. VEAL Veal, the young of beef, is divided much the same as mutton. First, the animal is divided into halves, then fore and hind quarters. The fore quarter is subdivided into rack, breast, Veal Page 172 An illustration of a Veal, with the Body Divided into Different Parts. 1 Head 2 Neck 3 Sticking Piece, End of Breast 4 Shoulder 5 Rack 6 Breast 7 Loin, Best End 8 Loin, Bone End 9 Flank 10 Fillet and Cutlets 11 Knuckle 12 Feet 13 Feet Pork Page 181 An illustration of the Port, its Body Divided in Different Parts. 1 Head 2 Neck 3 Shoulder 4 Loin, Rib End 5 Loin, Best End 6 Breast 7 Flank 8 Ham 9 Ham, Butt End 10 Ham, Hock End 11 )Feet 12 }Feet shoulder, neck, head and end of brisket, breast and sticking pieces; the hind quarter, into leg, from which we get the cutlets and fillets, the lorn which is again divided into best and bony end, the flank, which is frequently wrapped around the leg and taken off with it, the knuckle, which is the lower part of the leg, and the feet. Chops are cut from the loin and ribs A thin slice from the leg is called cutlet. A thick slice is a fillet; it does not, however, in any way correspond with the fillet of beef which is the tenderloin. It is also sold under the name of "cushion of veal." Select veal with the flesh firm, pinkish tinged, with hardgood-sized bones. Young veal is not only unwholesome, but frequently dangerous; is always known by the small tender or flexible bones,the flesh has a bluish tinge and is soft and flabby. The loin, shoulder, fillet and breast are best for roasting, or baking. The knuckle, the lower part of the leg, the neck, and bony pieces are used for stocks, stews and pies. The feet for jelly; the head for soup and entrees. Any method requiring long, slow, moist cooking is to be preferred. Plain baked or roasted veal is more difficult of digestion than veal boiled. Veal is a nitrogenous food, very difficult of digestion, hence must not be eaten by children or persons with impaired digestion. BAKED LOIN of VEAL Wipe the loin, place it in a baking pan, dredge it lightly with Pepper. Dissolve a teaspoonful of salt in a half pint of water, Pour it in the pan, cover over another pan of the same size, a Piece of oiled paper. Place in a quick oven until the outside is thoroughly seared. This will require about fifteen minutes. Cool the oven to 2400 Fahr. and cook slowly twenty minutes to each pound of meat, basting frequently. Veal is dense, difficult of digestion and requires a slow moist heat to make it at all eatable. Left-over veal may be served cold with tomato cold or chilli sauce, or made into croquettes, boudins or curry. Serve with baked veal, browned mashed or creamed hashed potatoes , and peas, string or lima bean s, or tomatoes baked or panned. VEAL CROQUETTES 1 pint of chopped, cooked veal I teaspoonful of onion juice I tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper I saltspoonful of nutmeg Add all the seasoning to the meat, mix thoroughly. put the milk over the fire in a saucepan. Rub the butter and flour together; when smooth add to the milk; stir constantly until you have a thick, white sauce; add this to the meat, mix and turn out to cool. When cold, form into croquettes, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat, 360 ? Fahr. Serve plain or with tomato sauce. When served for lunch, pass with them mayonnaise of celery, or nicely seasoned peas. CUTLETa la FLAMANDE A slice from the leg 4 good-sized tomatoes or 1/2 pint of canned tomatoes I onion 1 tablespoonful of parsley 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Trim the cutlet neatly. Cover the bottom of a baking pan with a little of the chopped onion. Put on top of this the cutlet; brush it with melted butter, sprinkle over the remaining part of the onion, the pepper, and place on top the tomatoes chopped fine. Run this into a quick oven and bake for a half hour. Lift carefully onto a hot platter. Strain over the sauce from the bottom of the pan, dust with salt, and send at once to the table. Serve with it creamed potatoes and peas. VEAL a la OSBORNE 1 good-sized cucumber 3 eggs 1 tablespoonful of capers 1 pound of cooked veal 1/2 teaspoonful of beef extract or 1 pint of good stock 4 slices of cooked beet 1/2 box gelatin (1 oz.) Pare the cucumber, cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick; then with a small round cutter cut into pea -shaped pieces; throw them into cold water; drain, throw into boiling water and cook for ten minutes; drain again. hardboil the eggs; cut the whites of the eggs into fancy shapes; cut the meat into blocks. Cover the gelatin with four tablespoonfuls of cold water, soak for a half hour, add a tablespoonful of chopped carrot, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, the beef extract, and a pint of boiling water or the stock. Bring this to a boil, and strain. Pour a little of this jelly into small individual molds that have been moistened in cold water. When it has hardened, arrange artistically the beet, egg and cucumber. Pour over it a little more jelly, and allow it to harden. Put the meat on top of this. Garnish the sides with the remaining egg and beet, and then pour over sufficient jelly to just cover. Stand aside over night, or for several hours. When ready to serve, dip each mold quickly in warm water, loosen the edge with a knife, turn out on a flat dish and fill the centre of the dish with fringed or cut celery, mixed with mayonnaise dressing. This is one of the nicest of cold entrees. Other meats may be substituted for veal. Serve on small plates and pass with them sandwiches of nuts, or plain bread and butter, or they may be served with lettuce, or mayonnaise of tomatoes, or plain cress salad, as a salad course. VEAL (ITALIAN STYLE) 1 veal cutlet 1 egg 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 4 ounces macaroni 1/2 pint bread crumbs 2 tablespoonfuls of Parmesan 1/2 pint of stock 1 saltspoonful of pepper Throw the macaroni into boiling water, and boil rapidly for twentv minutes; drain and throw into cold water for a half hour; drain again. Put it into a saucepan with just enough stock to cover; simmer gently while you cook the veal. Cut it in neat squares. Put a little suet or oil into a saute pan, and when hot drop in the veal; stir quickly; then push it on the back part of the stove where it will cook slowly for a half hour. It is wise to cover the saucepan, as in this way the moisture is retained and the veal softened. Mix the cheese and the bread crumbs together. Add a little red pepper and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. Add one-half the remaining salt to the macaroni and dust the other over the veal cutlets. When ready to serve, put the veal in the centre of the platter; pour over the macaroni. Put the bread crumbs for just a moment into the saute pan from which the veal was taken. Stir them over the fire until quite hot, and slightly browned. Put them over the top of the dish, and send at once to the table. FRENCH HASH 1 calf 's heart 1 bay leaf I small onion Toast I tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet Poached eggs Wash the heart through several cold waters; cover it with boiling water. Cook slowly for three hours, until tender. If you are making stock, the heart may be cooked in the stock pot. When ready to use, chop the heart very fine. Rub the butter and flour together, add a half pint of the liquor in which the heart was cooked; stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; add the chopped heart. Cook carefully on the back of the stove for twenty minutes. Cut slices of bread into rounds, and toast them; heap the hash on these, put on top of each a neatly poached egg, and send at once to the table. If this is nicely garnished it makes a sightly and attractive luncheon or breakfast dish. BLANQUETTE OF CALVES' HEARTS Wash two calves ' hearts thoroughly in cold water; cut them into cubes of one inch. Put them into a saucepan; cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, skin and simmer gently for two hours. When ready to serve rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour; add the liquor in which the hearts were cooked; stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Take from the fire, add the yolks of two eggs. Dish the hearts and pour over the sauce. Garnish the dish with carefully boiled rice, and send at once to the table. This makes an exceedingly nice dish for lunch. A heavy rope or garnish of nicely cooked green peas outside of the rice makes it more sightly. CALVES' HEARTS, COOKING SCHOOL STYLE 2 calves ' hearts 1/2 pint of tomatoes A level teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of bread crumbs 1 onion 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the hearts thoroughly in cold water and remove all the tough muscular part from near the top. Remove the clot of blood from the tip. Put the crumbs into a bowl, add the tomato, salt, pepper and onion; mix and stuff it into the hearts. Take two stitches across the top of the heart, drawing it together. Stand them in a small saucepan, tips down. The saucepan must be sufficiently small to keep them from toppling over. Pour into the saucepan sufficient water or stock to partly cover; bring quickly to boiling point. Add a teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a bay leaf, and simmer gently for two hours. Lift the hearts carefully; put them into a baking pan; brush with melted butter and bake in a quick oven (about 4000 Fahr.) for a half hour, or until they are nicely browned. While they are cooking, rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour; add the water in which they were cooked; stir until boiling, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Dish the hearts; remove the strings from the top; put them on a platter, butts together; garnish the dish with nicely cooked peas or string beans , or macedoine. If convenient, place at each end of the platter three baked tomatoes; strain over the brown sauce, dust thickly with chopped parsley, and send at once to the table. This is one of the nicest of all the cheap meat dishes. Use for supper or lunch. TRUSSED CALF'S HEAD 1 unskinned calfs head 1 bay leaf A root of celery 1 good-sized carrot 4 quarts of water 1 onion 6 whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of salt 1/2 teaspoonful of white pepper Have the butcher saw the head directly down through the cen- tre. When it comes home, take out the brains and throw them into cold water. Wash the head well in several cold waters and then with a sharp knife split the skin down the underneath part of the head, and keeping your knife near to the bone, remove the skin in one piece; singe it carefully. Throw it into cold water and let it soak for an hour; then with a knife scrape perfectly clean, singe and throw it again into cold water. Wash the head through several cold waters, being very careful to clean the nasal and throat passage. When perfectly clean, pour over it a teakettleful of boiling water. Take it from this hot water, put it into a soup kettle, place the skin on top. Cover with four quarts of cold water; bring quickly to boiling point and skim. Cover the kettle and push it to the back part of the stove to simmer gently for two hours; then add all the seasonings and simmer one hour longer. While this is cooking, remove the membrane from the brains, throw them into cold water, wash and put into a saucepan of boiling water. Simmer gently, not boil, for twenty minutes. Lift with a skimmer, and with a silver knife cut them into four pieces. When the head is done, remove the skin from the water and cut it into pieces about four inches long and two inches wide. Skin the tongue; cut into slices; put it in the centre of the platter; arrange the bits of skin neatly over and around. Put at the ends of the platter the brains and pour over sauce vinegarette. The remainder of the head and the water in which it was cooked will be used for calf 's head soup. By saving a portion of the skin you may, from one head, make mock- turtle soup, and calf 's head soup, and trussed calf 's head, three elegant dishes for one dollar. Serve with calf 's head, sliced tomato or celery or lettuce, or serve alone as an entree. METHOD No. 2 After the calf 's head has been cooked as in preceding recipe, the skin cut into pieces two inches square, the tongue sliced and the brains parboiled, arrange them neatly in the centre of a large platter. Have ready tomatoes that have been baked whole. To prepare, scald the tomatoes, remove the skin; cut Bread Patties and Pattie Cutters Used in Place of Bread Boxes Page 179 An illustration of Bread Patties and Patty Cutters. Ramekins Used for Creamed Dishes, Fish, Sweet Breads or Chicken Page 179 An illustration of ramekins used for Creamed Dishes. a little hole in the stem end, put in a teaspoonful of butter, and a dusting of salt and pepper; bake in the oven until they are just tender. Arrange them around the dish with alternate triangular pieces of toast or a square crouton. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of flour and two of butter; when smooth add a pint of the liquor in which the head was cooked. Stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a sweet red pepper and a half can of mushrooms, chopped fine. Cook slowly for about five minutes, and pour it over the calf 's head. This is an elegant entree or nice luncheon dish. Pass with it peas or asparagus tips. SWEETBREADS These are a part of the digestive viscera of the calf, hence, are easily digested. When simply cooked they only require one hour for perfect digestion. They belong to the proteid or nitrogenous group of foods, although they are not as stimulating as meats. They are sold in pairs, called by the butchers, " heart " and "throat" sweetbreads. The "throat" sweetbread (the thymus gland) is long and full of membrane. The " heart " sweetbread (the pancreas) is short, firm and compact, quite free from membrane, which makes it preferable for baking or broiling or any method of cooking where the sweetbreads are to be served whole. The thymus gland is just as good for creamed sweetbreads or any method where the sweetbread is to be picked into small pieces. No matter in what way sweetbreads are to be cooked they must be first parboiled or boiled. They hold digestive secretions that naturally cause them to "spoil" quickly; they digest themselves. This makes it necessary to wash and parboil them as soon as they come from the market. They may then be put aside, and will keep nicely in a cold place for one or two days. TO CREAM SWEETBREADS Wash the sweetbreads, throw them into boiling- water and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Drain, cool quickly, and break them apart into pieces, rejecting the membrane. Chop fine a half can of mushrooms, mix them with the sweetbreads. Put one tablespoonful of flour, one of butter into a saucepan; add a half pint of milk; stir until boiling. Add the sweetbreads and mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt and a salt -spoonful of pepper. Stand over hot water for ten minutes. This may be served on toast, in individual dishes, paper cases, or in a dish garnished with nicely cooked green peas. This same mixture is served in pate shells, bread boxes or bouchee cases. BAKED SWEETBREADS Select fine heart sweetbreads. Wash them in cold water, throw them into boiling water, simmer twenty minutes. Drain; put them into a baking pan, and cover the top with a little melted glaze. Put in the bottom of the pan two or three slices of bacon and a quarter cup of water. Add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Bake in a quick oven a half hour, basting twice. Have ready a can of peas, drained, washed, heated and seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, or the same quantity of fresh peas. Put them into the bottom of a heated platter, stand the sweetbreads into the peas, baste over the sauce from the bottom of the pan and send at once to the table. BROILED SWEETBREADS Wash and boil the sweetbreads a half hour. When cold cut them into slices lengthwise; dust each slice with salt and pepper, put them into a broiler and broil over a quick fire five minutes, turning once. Have ready a nicely heated platter, dish the sweetbreads, put over them a little butter and send at once to the table. Pass with these toast and peas. If they are to be served for supper, toast alone. FRENCH STEWED SWEETBREADS Wash two pairs of sweetbreads, put them into a saucepan, add one quart of boiling water, one onion chopped fine, four whole cloves, and a blade of mace. Cover the saucepan and cook gently one hour. Take out the sweetbreads and stand them aside to cool. Strain the water in which they were cooked and stand it aside to cool. When ready to serve take the fat from the top of the water, remove the membrane from the sweetbreads and cut them crosswise in three or four pieces. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour in a saucepan; mix, add a pint of the liquor in which the sweetbreads were cooked and stir until boiling. Add the sweetbreads, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and, if you use it, four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Cover and cook over hot water for fifteen minutes. Serve with peas or asparagus tips. PORK While this animal must be classed with meats, the fat and lean flesh are very different from the fat and lean flesh of other animals. The texture of the lean pork corresponds more nearly to veal, while that of the fat is loose and more easily digested than the fat of other animals. Do not misunderstand. Cooked fats are universally to be condemned and the fat of pork, while it is easily digested in the raw state and more easily digested in the cooked state than other fats, is not to be recommended as a desirable food. When it becomes necessary to add fat in greater quantities to our daily food, it is by far better to select a variety of fats that may be used uncooked, as butter,cream,olive oil and the fatty nuts. While butter and cream are liable to animal contamination, they are much more easily digested than cooked fats. To repeat, the cooking of fats, which is necessary with the fat of animals to remove the danger of diseased germs, decomposes the fats, producing fatty irritant acids that irritate the mucous lining of the digestive tract. The lean flesh of pork requires, even when carefully cooked, five hours for perfect digestion. If a man of sedentary habits uses nitrogenous foods of this kind, his stomach is rarely ever at rest, hence, it would give out at an early period of life; in fact, it would have finished its power of digestion or it would have lived its life at an early age. It is not the number of years that complete one's life; one person may accomplish more in forty than another in eighty years, so the period of life must be rated according to the amount of energy expended and not the number of years actually lived. Palatability of pork induces many unthinking people to eat it frequently and in large quantities. Pork eating people are, as a rule, inclined to indigestion. Breakfast bacon is more digestible than any other form of fatty meat; this is due to its preparation, but even breakfast bacon must be eaten with care, once in a while and in small quantities. Pork containing more fat than the flesh of other animals is frequently placed with the carbonaceous, heat and energy foods, rather than with the muscle and tissue building foods. For this reason with beans (muscle making) we use pork, (heat producing); we do not serve beef with beans, both are muscle builders; but beef and potatoes, pork and beans. According to my way of thinking, the hog, no matter how well fed, has little place on the well regulated table of thinking people. Granting that the fat is more easily digested than the fat of other animals, the lean flesh is dense, difficult of digestion and must be overcooked to be at all safe. Life is too short to spend it in digesting pork. Better by far take nitrogen in a more easily digested form and fats less liable to contamination. BREAKFAST BACON Cut the bacon into slices as thin as a wafer; put them into a large pan and pour over sufficient boiling water to cover the bottom of the pan. Boil rapidly until the bacon is transparent and the water evaporated; turn the bacon for a few moments until crisp and brown. Send at once to the table on a heated plate. Serve with it eggs or steak. BROILED BACON Cut the bacon into very thin strips; place them between a wire broiler, broil quickly on one side, turn and broil quickly on the other. Curl while hot and send at once to the table. ROLLED BACON This is made by following the first recipe. As soon as the water evaporates and the bacon is transparent, roll it quickly and fasten with a little wooden skewer or tooth pick, and brown over the fire in an ordinary wire broiler. Draw out the skewer and send at once to the table. Broiled or fried bacon may be rolled while it is hot, just before it becomes crisp. BAKED HAM Procure a small, rather lean ham; wash it thoroughly in cold water, sprinkle it with baking soda, and with a small brush scrub the soda all over the ham. Rinse in cold water, trim it neatly and place it in a baking pan skin side down. Mix in a small bowl a saltspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of cloves, two saltspoonfuls of cinnamon, and a half teaspoonful of celery seed; rub these thoroughly into the meat while it is in the pan. Then sprinkle over it a thick layer of finely chopped onion. Make a paste by adding slowly a half cup of water to one cupful of flour. Roll this paste out in a thin sheet sufficiently large to cover the entire flesh side of the ham, tuck it down close to the skin. Fill the pan two-thirds full of hot cider; if you are extravagant you may use a bottle of white wine. Stand it in the oven and bake four hours, basting over the top of the paste. When done remove the paste and skin; trim the meat from the end bone, decorate the bone with a quill of paper, and place the ham on a hot platter, fat side down. Take four tablespoonfuls of fat from the surface of the liquor in the pan, mix with it two tablespoonfuls of flour, add a half pint good stock, a half pint of cider or champagne; stir until boiling; add a grating of nutmeg and strain into a sauce boat. Serve with sweet potato croquettes, stuffed and baked tomatoes, spinach, kale or cold slaw, and apple sauce. TO SERVE BAKED HAM COLD Cut the cold baked ham into very thin slices; arrange them neatly overlapping, down one side of the meat platter, Fill the other side with cold tomato sauce; between the two put a row of parsley; garnish the entire dish with quarters of peeled tomatoes . Pass with it apple salad. HAM WITH TOMATO SAUCE 1 slice of ham, a half inch thick 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of chopped celery or saltspoonful of celery seed 2 whole or one-half cup of stewed tomatoes 4 tablespoonfuls of stock, or, if you use wine, 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry Put the tomatoes through a sieve; add the celery seed, butter, one teaspoonful of onion juice, saltspoonful of pepper; then add the stock or wine; and stand the saucepan over hot water. Put over the fire an iron pan; when very hot put in the ham. As soon as browned on one side, turn and brown the other; turn almost constantly for five minutes. Put on a heated dish and pour over the sauce. Send at once to the table. QUICK SAUSAGE 1 pound of lean pork 1 teaspoonful of sage 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the meat very fine; add to it the seasoning and make into small cakes the size and thickness of a Hamburg steak; put them into a heated iron pan and cook quickly, browning on both sides; then push them over a very moderate fire and cook slowly, turning once or twice until they are thoroughly done. about fifteen minutes. To make a brown sauce add to the fat in the pan two tablespoonfuls of flour; add a half pint of water or stock; stir until boiled and add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Serve with this, mashed or browned potato es and apple sauce. PIG'S CHEEK Purchase a pig's head, singe carefully, then scald it thoroughly. and scrape off any hair that may be left. Split the head into halves; put the forehead or front of the head on a board and split through from the back; remove the brains, clean and put them in cold water; take out the tongue. Wash the head thoroughly in cold water; scald and scrape the skin again until perfectly white. Cover with cold water and soak over night; in the morning put two halves into a kettle, cover with cold water, add the tongue and cook slowly for two hours. Lift, drain carefully, and dish on a large platter, nose ends together. Have ready cooked a half peck of spinach, chopped fine and seasoned; heap this over the nose and in the centre of the dish, put the tongue, sliced, on one side, and the cooked brains on the other and a hard boiled egg cut into eighths, in the centre of the spinach. Pass with this apple sauce, or pan-baked apples, and mashed and browned white or sweet potatoes. PIGS' FEET Purchase a set (4) of pigs ' feet. Wash them thoroughly in cold water; scald and scrape them, cover with cold water and soak over night. Now split the feet into halves lengthwise; put them into a baking pan skin side down; dust with salt and pepper, cover with chopped onion, then pour over sufficient boiling water to cover. Put over another pan and cook in the oven for one hour, basting frequently; when done, dish the feet neatly. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter, two of flour, add a half pint of water from the pan in which they were cooked and a half pint of strained tomato, add a half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper and strain over the feet. Serve as a supper dish, and pass with them brown bread and cold slaw. ANOTHER METHOD After they are baked, dip in egg, roll in crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat, or they may be rolled in bread crumbs and broiled. Serve with them apple sauce or pan-baked apples and brown bread. Pass sauce piquante. POULTRY AND GAME POULTRY Under this heading we shall consider the ordinary barnyard fowls?turkeys, chickens, ducks, geese and guinea fowls, also tame pigeons. These may be said to be in season during the greater part of the year, and next to the mammals are the most important of the meat diet. They belong to the nitrogenous or muscle-making foods, lacking, however, the stimulating quality of the red meats. The ratio of water is about the same as in beef and mutton. The fat is not stored throughout the lean flesh, as in the larger domestic animals, but in parts of the body. In overfed chickens it accumulates over and through the intestines, while in turkeys we find an additional layer underneath the skin of the breast. Guinea fowls, chickens, and pigeons are best adapted to the delicate stomach. Turkeys are, as a rule, well fed, carefully cleaned and come to the markets dry picked, with their heads and feet on, an exceedingly good way of marketing all kinds of poultry. When poultry is unduly fattened and there is a layer of fat underneath the skin, the meat, its depth not being great, becomes during cooking saturated with overheated fat, which is apt to disagree with delicate stomachs. For this reason ducks and geese are not so desirable as fowl. The greater the amount of fat, the less lean me and the more expensive our nitrogen, hence, overfattened fowls are less nutritious, less easy of digestion and more expensive. Guinea fowl is a sort of cross between a wild bird and a domestic fowl, is lean, nutritious and easy of digestion; the meat is dark and rich in flavor. Osmozone, that constituent which gives odor, flavor and color to meats, is found in smaller quantities in fowls than in red meats, For this reason Beaumont says that "white meat is more difficult of digestion and less attractive than red meat; it is, however, less stimulating." Spring chickens contain less nourishment than full grown fowls. They are used for broiling and panning, and are served as a delicate, appetizing morsel rather than a true food. Barnyard fowls should be cooped for at least six days before killing. This does not mean to huddle ten or fifteen chickens in a small coop and feed anything near at hand. They must have a clean, good space, and be well fed on corn for at least five days, then for twenty-four hours before killing, on skimmed milk or soft boiled rice. The night before, give them plenty of water, no food. In this way the "crop" will be entirely empty, the intestines clean, the dark almost as light as the white flesh, and both will have a clean, sweet and delicious flavor. Too often our common fowl has the meat so impregnated with unsuitable and offensive food, that the educated palate must reject it. The flesh of all animals is more or less flavored by food; for instance, a "celery fed" duck commands a higher price than one fed on corn; the canvas-back and the red-head ducks swim side by side down the water, the first eating the roots of the so-called "wild celery," which are rich in flavor, the latter taking the tops left floating on the water; as a result the canvas-back ducks are so impregnated with this desirable flavor that they retail at from two to three dollars a pair, while their close companions, the red-heads, are sold at a dollar. Rhode Island turkeys bring twice as much as the ordinary turkeys, simply because they are fed on a special food which imparts to the flesh a desired flavor. All fowls raised for food purposes should have clean food and plenty of cold water. HOW TO KILL A FOWL. To kill, stick them with a sharp knife through the jugular vein; this is best done by opening the mouth and cutting it on the inside of the neck. Hang them at once, by the feet, that they may bleed freely. Pick while they are warm, taking care not to tear the skin. Do not make any gashes in the flesh; do not cut off the head or feet. It is always objectionable to scald poultry for picking purposes; it is a lazy way of getting off the feathers. Scalded chickens spoil quickly; scalding warms and frequently cooks the outside flesh. If then the intestines are not taken out for several days, and the meat improperly cooled, the flesh is unfit for eating, and extremely liable to cause ptomaine poisoning. To prepare poultry for market, after picking, dip the feet into boiling water up as far as what may be called the "knee joint." Cut or loosen the skin around the joint and pull it off as you would turn off a glove, wrong side out. This will leave the feet perfectly clean, so that they may be used for stock and other purposes. Tie the feet together and wrap the neck as shown in the cut. Personally I should like such a chicken wrapped at once in oil paper to prevent contaminations from dust and handling. HOW TO SELECT A FOWL. In selecting a chicken, choose one with firm flesh, feet and legs soft and free from scales, wings and the end of the breast bone limber, and with a sufficient amount of fat to make the chicken plump, but not enough to increase its weight; avoid old hens, especially those with tremendous bulk at the end of the breast bone?they are expensive, even at half price, as the intestines, fat and eggs they contain will weigh two pounds, and the flesh is neither well flavored nor tender. The end of the breast-bone remains cartilage until the chicken is about one year old; if this is pliable it denotes a young chicken. As a chicken grows older, the point become sharp and hard, and it is really a "fowl;" when exceedingly hard, it denotes an old fowl. A "chicken" is a fowl under nine months old. A "pullet" is a young hen less than a year old. "Broilers" are spring chickens, chickens about four or five months old. "Fowl" is a term used to designate a chicken or rooster from a year and a half to two years old. A capon, a castrated cock or "spayed" hen, stands at the very head of domestic fowls. Their growth is rapid, their meat tender and delicious, and as they always command a high price, they are much better cared for than ordinary Showing Tendons Drawn from Leg of Chicken or Turkey Page 189 An illustration of Tendons being Drawn from Leg of Chicken or Turkey. Chicken en Casserole Page 191 An illustration of Chicken en Casserole. barnyard fowls. They have the tenderness of very young chickens, with the rich flavor of maturity. HOW TO DRAW AND TRUSS A FOWL. These directions will answer equally well for chicken or turkey, After the "fowl" has been picked or as it comes to you from the market, hold it over a burning gas jet or over a little burning alcohol or alcohol lamp, to carefully singe off the long, hair-like feathers. Unfold the wings so that they will be properly singed. If obliged to use paper, select a piece of manilla, twist it rope-like, place it in a coal scuttle or baking pan, light it, and hold the fowl over the flame, turning until it is well singed. Do not allow the soot or carbon to be deposited on the turkey, as it spoils both the appearance and flavor of the flesh. As soon as the fowl is singed, put it into a pan of cold water, wash the skin thoroughly, then rinse with clean waterand wipe dry. With a cleaver cut off the head, leaving a long neck. To remove the feet, cut the skin at the side of the leg, running the knife lightly over the top; bend the leg back until the "sinews" on top are exposed; then with a wooden skewer or strong fork loosen them one by one and pull them out. To do this, grasp the upper part of the leg, holding it firm, until you loosen the ligaments. In this way they will come out perfectly clean without tearing the flesh. Now, cut through the tough muscle at the joint, exposing the ligaments on the under side, and grasping the flesh of the leg again, draw these out, one at a time. Then cut through the tough muscle at the back. If properly done you will have taken out five sinews from the upper side, and two from the under. After removing the second leg turn the fowl on the breast, make a long gash down the back of the neck, cutting the skin to the bone. Fold the skin back over the breast and carefully remove the crop, being very careful not to break the skin or the crop. When the crop is loosened so that you can take it in your hand, cut that part which is fastened to the intestines at the neck and remove it. Now turn the fowl over on its back; make an incision at the end of the breast-bone and with your two front fingers loosen all the intestines at the back, Then at the crop opening, loosen the heart and lungs, or "lights." Put your two fingers and thumb in the opening under the breast bone, grasp the gizzard and intestines, and carefully remove them all together and without breaking. Drop them for a moment and with a sharp knife cut around the large intestine and your chicken is clean. Examine to see if the heart and lungs are removed; then cut the oil sack from the rump, wipe carefully on the inside with a wet cloth to remove blood clots. Do not, under any circumstances, put chickens or turkeys into a pan of cold water to soak. If there is an odor about the flesh, it is unfit for food, and washing will not remove it. The juices of the flesh are drawn out by the soaking; the meat is tasteless and you have lost a portion of the nourishment. There is no necessity for breaking the gall or intestines, but if such a thing should occur, quickly wipe off the flesh. The fowl is now ready for "trussing," or putting into shape. TRUSSING. Cut the neck close to the breast-bone; fold the skin back; tuck the wings down over it and with a single stitch fasten them into shape. Press the legs down close to the side, run the trussing needle directly through the body, bringing it back over the leg joints; tie on one side. Carefully work the skin down over the ends of the leg bones and sew the two legs close to the side of the breast bone, fastening them to the rump. A fowl properly trussed has only three stitches, is perfectly compact and will not get out of shape in the cooking. Ducks and geese, in fact all poultry or birds, are cleaned in precisely the same way. Ducks and geese, however, have gullets not crops; they may be loosened at the neck and taken out at the lower vent. If stuffing is to be used, put it in the carcass, and sew up the vents, then truss as directed. The "giblets" consist of the liver, heart and gizzard. The feet, scalded and skinned, and the neck are added to the giblets. To open the gizzard peel off the blue skin. Then remove the fleshy part, first on one side, then on the other. Do not cut the gizzard into halves and turn it wrong side out, In this way the Turkey Trussed Ready for Baking Page 190 An illustration of a Turkey trussed and ready for Baking. Showing Trussing on Back of Turkey Page 190 An illustration of Trussing a Turkey. second skin is retained, and as it holds digestive secretions, gives an unpleasant or unclean odor and taste to the sauce. TO ROAST OR BAKE POULTRY. One rule will apply equally well to turkey,chicken, goose or duck. Follow the general directions for roasting, page 43. Have the oven hot until skin is browned, then cool, and if stuffed, cook twenty minutes to a pound; unstuffed fifteen, allowing fifteen minutes extra at first for the heating. Baste with the fat in the pan every ten minutes; do not add water. Serve with unstuffed chicken or turkey one starchy vegetable, as plain boiled rice or rice croquettes, or sweet or white potato croquettes, a green vegetable, as creamed onions or peas, or asparagus, or Jerusalem artichokes or stachys and cranberry or barberry sauce, or spiced currants, or sour grape or crab-apple jelly. CHICKEN en CASSEROLE Procure a chicken about one year old; singe, draw and truss as for roasting. Put the chicken in a casserole pot, add a dozen small onions, peeled, two bay leaves, a half pint of fancy pieces of carrot, a small turnip cut into fancy shapes, a stalk or two of celery; partly fill the mold with boiling stock; cover and place in a hot oven and cook for an hour and a half; baste frequently. When the chicken is half done, add a level teaspoon-ful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. If properly cooked the chicken will be a dark, rich brown, the stock will have evaporated to just sufficient to form a sauce. Mushrooms may be added either fresh or canned. The chicken is brought to the table in the pot in which it is cooked. This recipe will answer for Birds or Pigeons. PANNED CHICKEN This is, perhaps, one of the most tasty methods of cooking chicken. Draw, singe and disjoint the fowl. Put the pieces carefully into a baking pan, add a half pint of water or stock; dust lightly with pepper. Put the pan into a very hot oven, covering with another pan, for fifteen minutes; then remove the cover, sprinkle over the chicken one teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; baste and cook quickly for one hour. In a gas stove put the pan underneath the burners in the broiling chamber; brown the chicken first on one side, then on the other. Add the seasoning and put into the oven to finish. Dish and add to the pan two tablespoonfuls of butter; the pan should now be dry. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix, and add a pint of water or stock; stir until boiling, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet or browning; take from the fire, add the yolk of one egg and strain it over the chicken. Garnish the dish with squares or triangular pieces of toast, and if you have it, a little finely chopped parsley. Serve with this plain, boiled rice, scalloped or baked tomatoes. Pass cranberry or currant jelly. RAGOUT OF CHICKEN Singe, draw and cut the chicken into joints; put the rough pieces and dark meat in the bottom of the saucepan, the white meat on top, flesh side down. Pour over one quart of boiling water, cover the saucepan, bring to boiling point, then push to the back part of stove, where it will simmer, for thirty minutes. Add two bunches of celery cut into pieces a half inch long, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; cover and simmer three-quarters of an hour. When the meat is tender, dish carefully, putting the rough pieces underneath, and cover over the celery. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour. Add the liquor in which the chicken was cooked (now one pint), and stir until boiling; take from the fire, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, strain this over the celery, garnish with baked dumplings and send at once to the table. Pass crab-apple or quince jelly. Without dumplings, serve with plain boiled rice. A BROWNED FRICASSEE Singe, draw and disjoint the chicken. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; when heated without browning, put in the breasts of the chicken flesh side down. When these have browned take them out; brown the second joints, wings and legs, being very careful not to burn or brown the butter. Now add to the butter two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix. Add one pint of water or stock, a level teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoon-ful of grated onion and two bay leaves; when boiling add the chicken, putting in the rough pieces, rack or bone side down, then the dark meat, on top the white meat, flesh side down. Cover the saucepan and push it to the back part of the stove where it will simmer for an hour. Cook slowly, as it will easily scorch. When the chicken is tender, dish, remove the fat from the surface and strain the sauce over the chicken. Garnish the dish with a little chopped parsley or finely chopped celery tops, or the dish may be garnished with squares of toasted bread, or, for supper, squares of carefully fried, white corn meal mush. For lunch, serve with it boiled rice, or mush bread and mayonnaise of celery. Pass currant jelly. To dish a ragout or fricassee of chicken put the back in the centre of the plate, at the right and left of this the wings, in the front toward the carver, cross the legs, back and near the wings, the second joints, in the centre on top, the breast; strain over the sauce. Put a large bunch of parsley directly in the back of the dish. In garnishing with toast or fried mush fill in the spaces. If chicken is dished in this way, the carver will soon know where to find each piece; then, too, the dish has a sort of systematic and orderly look. BREADED CHICKEN Cut a small spring chicken, after it has been cleaned and drawn, into four pieces; dust with salt and pepper, dip them in a beaten egg, to which you have added a tablespoonful of water, and oust thoroughly with fresh bread crumbs, which must not be browned. Place the pieces in a baking pan, bone side down, and run into a quick oven until a golden brown. This will take about forty minutes. People who have been accustomed to fried chicken will think this very nice. Dish neatly and serve in a boat sauce Bechamel or cream sauce. For supper, serve with them either corn bread or milk biscuit. For lunch, green peas nicely cooked and daintily seasoned. PANNED WHOLE For this select spring chickens; singe, remove the head and feet, split them down the back and remove the intestines. Wipe the chicken inside and out, cross the legs, fold back the wings and with a wooden potato masher or cleaver break or flatten the breast bone. Place these in a pan, bone side down; dust lightly with pepper, baste them all over with melted butter, add a half cup of stock and put them in a very hot oven; baste again with melted butter in about fifteen minutes; dust them with salt and cook thirty minutes longer; if the oven is hot, three-quarters of an hour will brown these nicely and at the same time make them tender and thoroughly done. Dish, garnish with parsley and pass with them plain cream sauce made in the pan in which they were cooked. If served for supper, pass also corn bread, waffles or milk biscuits. For luncheon, peas and cream sauce only. PILAFF 1 fowl 1 pint of strained tomato 1/2 pint of rice 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 good-sized onion 2 level teaspoonfuls of salt 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper Singe, draw and disjoint the chicken as for a fricassee, put the butter in a saucepan, add the onion sliced, stir until the onion is thoroughly cooked, but not browned, put in the chicken, stir for a moment without browning, then cover with boiling water, cover the saucepan and bring to boiling point; push to the back part of the stove where it will just simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Wash the rice and let it stand in water an hour; drain, and sprinkle it carefully over the top of the chicken; add Chicken Cut for Stewing or Fricassee Page 193 An illustration of a Chicken Cut in Small Pieces for Stewing. the salt and pepper; cover the kettle and cook for thirty minutes longer; the rice will now have absorbed every particle of water in the saucepan, so be very careful that it does not scorch. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour; add the tomato, stir until boiling. Dish the chicken, putting the rice over the top; add to the tomato a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and strain carefully over the rice. Sprinkle over it a little chopped parsley and send at once to the table. This dish may also be made from cold, left-over chicken. It is exceedingly good made from mutton. CREOLE STEW Disjoint the chicken after it has been singed and drawn; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan, add three good-sized onions cut into thin slices, stir until the onion is cooked without browning; now put in,the chicken, the rougher pieces down, the white meat on top; add a clove of garlic, mashed, one-half pint of finely chopped celery, and sufficient strained tomato to just cover the chicken, about one quart; bring to boiling point and simmer carefully for one hour; this must scarcely boil; add a level teaspoonful of salt, and a half tea-spoonful of pepper, or one sweet red pepper, chopped fine; now add one pint of fresh corn cut from the cob or one can of corn; let this heat thoroughly; dish the chicken in the middle of a large platter, put over the corn and sauce. Cover this with finely chopped parsley or chives, and send at once to the table. Serve with it plain boiled rice, and baked bananas. CHICKEN CREAMS 1 pound of cooked chicken 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 can mushrooms 1/2 pint of milk The whites of three eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the chicken very fine, if possible put it twice through a meat chopper.Put the mushrooms through at the same time. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until thick and smooth.Take from the fire, and when cool work it grad- ually into the meat. Press the whole through a sieve and add the salt and pepper and the well-beaten whites of eggs. Put this mixture into greased tiny individual molds. Stand the molds in-a steamer or a pan of water in the oven. Cover with oiled paperand bake slowly (2600 Fahr.) for a half hour; serve with creamed mushroom sauce made from the remainder of the can of mushrooms. Serve also peas or asparagus tips. CHICKEN TIMBALE 1/2 pound of uncooked white meat of chicken 1/2 pint of white, soft bread crumbs I gill (1/2 cup) of milk Whites of five eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the meat twice through a meat chopper, then rub it until perfectly smooth; this may be done in a bowl with a wooden pestle or in a mortar. Put the bread and milk into a saucepan, stir over the fire until they form a smooth soft paste; take from the fire and when cold add gradually to the meat. Press the whole through a sieve, add the salt and pepper, then gradually the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Fill into greased tim-bale molds and stand in a baking pan, partly filled with boiling water; cover the top with oiled paper and bake in a moderately quick oven (about 3000 Fahr.) thirty minutes. While these are baking make a plain white sauce or cream mushroom sauce, pour it in the bottom of the serving dish; turn the timbales from the molds and stand them in the sauce; garnish the edge of the dish with a rope of finely chopped parsley, or peas filled in around the timbales, or the molds may be garnished with finely chopped truffle, mushrooms or green peas. It is always wise to line the bottom of the mold with a piece of oiled paper; one can loosen the sides with a knife, but if the bottom sticks the appearance of the timbale is spoiled. This same mixture may be put into a plain charlotte mold, leaving a space in the centre to be filled with creamed mushrooms; put over the top a layer of the timbale mixture and cook it in the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve with cream mushroom sauce. CHICKEN CROQUETTES All meat croquettes are made precisely the same, with the seasonings changed to suit the meat. To boil the chicken, cover it with boiling water, boil rapidly for five minutes, then push it back where it will simmer until tender, one and a half or two hours. At the end of the first hour add one onion, stuck with twelve cloves, two bay leaves, some finely chopped celery or celery seed. The croquettes will be better if the chicken is allowed to cool before chopping. To each three and a half pound chicken use a pair of sweetbreads. Wash the sweetbreads and boil slowly for three-quarters of an hour; pick them apart, rejecting the membrane; chop them quickly with a silver knife and put them aside while you chop the chicken; this is best done in a wooden bowl. Ground meat makes a pasty croquette. To be perfect they must be creamy, not pasty. Mix the sweetbreads with the chopped chicken and measure; to each pint of this allow 1/2 pint of milk 1 rounding tablespoonful of butter 2 rounding tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of parsley 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 saltspoonful of pepper A dash of cayenne 1 saltspoonful of nutmeg Put the milk over the fire, rub together the butter and flour, add the milk and cook until smooth and thick; add all the seasoning to the meat, mix it with the sauce and turn out to cool. When cold, make into pyramid-shaped croquettes, dip in beaten egg, to which you have added a tablespoonful of warm water; roll in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat (3600 Fahr.) until a golden brown. Dish on brown paper for a few moments, then on a heated platter; stick a tiny piece of parsley in the top of each; fill the dish with nicely seasoned, cooked peas and send at once to the table. Pass with these, mayonnaise of celery. If served as an entree at dinner, simply pass peas or mushrooms. To rewarm chicken croquettes stand them on a piece of soft brown paper in the bottom of a baking pan; place in a quick oven for not more than eight minutes, better five. If overheated they will crack and lose their shape. If sweetbreads are not at hand, simply measure the chicken and follow the recipe. Where large quantities of chicken croquettes are to be made, the operation will be more easily and quickly done if one quart at a time is made and put aside; one cannot season large quantities and have them as palatable as the smaller ones. For a large entertainment where salad and croquettes are both to be served, use the white meat for salad and the dark meat for croquettes. For church suppers where money must be made and at the same time a dainty supper served, boil a large piece of veal with the chickens; chop and use the same as chicken meat. Being cooked with the chickens it tastes the same. Ten pounds of veal from the leg and two chickens will make one hundred and fifty croquettes, at an average cost of four cents each. CHICKEN SOUFFLE This recipe is exceedingly nice for those persons who like a delicate dish of chicken and cannot eat such fried foods as croquettes. Chop cold, cooked chicken very fine; to each pound allow a half pint of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Add all the seasoning to the meat. Rub the - butter and flour together, add the cream and stir until boiling; take from the fire, mix with the meat. Add the yolks of three eggs and then fold in carefully the well beaten whites. Turn this at once into a baking dish and bake in a quick oven fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve with this mayonnaise of celery, or peas. Serve at once, as soufflés fall quickly. CREAMED CHICKEN Cut the white meat of cold boiled chicken into cubes of one-half inch; for home use, both dark and light meats may be used; for pates and paper cases, however, the white meat " is to be preferred. Measure these blocks and to each pint allow a half can of mushrooms cut into quarters and a half pint of white sauce. Make the sauce by rubbing together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, add a half pint of milk; stir until boiling, add a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of white pepper; now add the chicken and mushrooms. Cover and stand over hot water for ten minutes, stirring once or twice. This mixture is used for the filling of pate shells, bouche cases, paper cases, little bread boxes or bread pates, and is served for lunch in a border of rice. MAYONNAISE OF CHICKEN Boil the chickens carefully so that the meat will be tender and white. When cold take off each half of the breast in a solid piece. Place your hand on top of these pieces and split them lengthwise into three slices. Have ready a nicely made mayonnaise dressing, colored green by the addition of finely pounded parsley; dip each piece of chicken in the mayonnaise, arrange them on a cold dish, one overlapping the other, and bring to a point in the centre. Garnish the dish with crisp celery or lettuce; serve at once. Pass plain celery, brown bread and butter. This is a sightly and elegant dish for a summer luncheon. TURKEY For roasting select as first choice a young hen turkey. The legs should be black, the skin and flesh white, the breast broad and plump. The shorter the neck the better. An old turkey is rather broad not plump, legs reddish, and the end of the breast bone exceedingly hard. A young gobbler, very nice for roasting, will have black legs and small spurs. A gobbler is much larger than a hen even at the same age, and is consequently less economical, as the carcass weighs heavy. Under no conditions purchase old poultry, either turkey,chicken,goose or duck. The flesh is strong and stringy, has always a surplus of fatwhich it loses in cooking, and even when carefully boiled or steamed is not palatable or economical. As soon as a turkey comes from the market, singe carefully over a burning gas jet or a tablespoonful of burning alcohol. Then wash the skin thoroughly, rinse and wipe it dry. With the cleaver cut off the head, leaving a long neck. Cut the skin at the side of the leg joint and very lightly over the top. Bend the foot back, loosening the ligaments or sinews the same as in a chicken, clean, truss and bake or roast the same as chicken. Turkeys are much better baked or roasted without stuffing. A turkey stuffed with chestnuts is, however, considered a delicacy. CAPONS Singe, draw and truss the same as chickens. Roast or bake. If stuffing is preferred, use oysters or chestnuts. DUCKS Tame ducks to be well flavored must be penned at least ten days before killing. Like chickens they are scavengers and the flesh is flavored by the material they eat. We have in the market "celery fed" ducks, ducks fed for a week or more on finely chopped celery; this imparts an extremely delicious flavor to the flesh. TO SELECT. A young duck can be readily told by the soft under-bill; in bending, it easily breaks; the lower part of the legs should be smooth, and the webbing of the feet soft. They should be sufficiently fattened to have plump breasts; overfattened ducks are, however, not desirable. Singe the same as chickens. Cut off the feet, then the head; make a vent at the end of breastbone, lengthwise; loosen the gullet at the neck, being careful not to break the skin on the breast. From the lower vent loosen the intestines, and grasping the gizzard, pull them all out; bring out with them the gullet. In trussing two stitches only are required, one to hold the wings back and one to fasten the legs down close to the side. The breast bone of a duck or other swimming bird, is broad and flat, not pointed as in a chicken. Duck Trussed Ready for Baking Page 200 An illustration of a Duck trussed, ready for Baking. Showing Trussing on Back Page 200 An illustration showing the trussing Process. hence, the legs come to the side of the body, instead of close to the breast. The legs are much shorter than those of walking birds. TO ROAST OR BAKE. Follow directions for roasting. Have the oven very hot (3600 Fahr.), brown quickly and then cool to 240 ? Fahr., roasting, if - stuffed, two hours; unstuffed, one and a half hours. Stuff ducks with plain, mashed potatoes nicely seasoned, or with walnut stuffing. Serve with baked or roasted duck,currant jelly, or apple sauce or cranberry sauce, and panned, baked or stewed tomatoes or turnips. If the duck is unstuffed serve sweet or white potatoes or macaroni; the latter is to be preferred. SALMI OF DUCK, COOKING SCHOOL STYLE Procure a pair of nice young ducks; singe, wash and draw. Remove the legs with the second joint and then the wings; separate the breast and back, making two pieces of the breast and two of the back. Arrange the pieces neatly in a baking pan; sprinkle over them one pint of finely chopped celery, a saltspoonful of pepper, and two bay leaves; dissolve a teaspoon-ful of salt in one pint of good stock, chicken stock preferable, and bring to boiling point; pour this over the duck, put the pan into a quick oven, cook and baste one and a half hours, turning the meat when it is partly done. When the duck is tender the pan should be dry. Dish the duck neatly. Add to the pan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix, add one pint of water or stock; stir until boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, one-half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Have ready one dozen pimolas that have been soaked for twenty minutes in hot water. Add these to the sauce, ana if you like, a half can of mushrooms; pour this over the salmi, garnish with squares of toast, with a little pyramid of guava or currant jelly on each, and send at once to the table. Those who use wine may add four tablespoonfuls of sherry to the sauce. GEESE AND GOSLINGS As geese live to a great age and are frequently marketed when old, much care must be given to the selecting; they are not good when over three years old. A young goose may be determined by the soft down on its legs; the legs are soft and yellow, the webbing tender, the under-bill soft and easily broken. Geese accumulate fat readily, and even when selected with care will have an abundance of fat immediately underneath the skin, hence, the cooking must be done slowly, and also for this reason they do not require frequent basting. Singe, draw and clean the same as a duck. Like ducks they have no crop, the gullet will be loosened and taken out at the lower vent with the intestines. Roasting and baking, stuffed or unstuffed, are the choice methods of cooking. Of course, they are much more wholesome when cooked without stuffing. If stuffed with potatoes , the potatoes absorb the fat, become greasy, exceedingly moist and difficult of digestion. Sourkraut is to be preferred. Wash the sourkraut once or twice thoroughly, drain and stuff it into the goose. Serve with unstuffed goose carefully boiled cabbage, kale, brussels sprouts or spinach, and potatoes either white or sweet for the starchy vegetables. Pass also some acid sauce as currant jelly, apple sauce or pan-baked apples. In the Northern parts of the United States barberry jelly, stewed barberries or spiced currants seem to be the accepted sauce. Stuffed peppers or pickled walnuts are also served. In roasting, baste the goose every thirty minutes; if stuffed, roast twenty-five minutes to a pound, without stuffing fifteen to eighteen minutes to the pound, cooling the oven as soon as the goose is nicely browned. Gosling or green goose is cooked unstuffed and roasted fifteen minutes to a pound. GUINEA FOWL The flesh of the guinea hen is very unlike that of any other barnyard fowl; it is all dark, corresponding more nearly to the flesh of the wild fowls; the fact is the guineas always remain wild, simply tolerating the domesticity to which they are subjected. They hunt their own food largely through the green fields, hence, they do not accumulate fat like domestic fowls, which makes them more digestible. They may be stuffed and baked, or baked without stuffing, or fricasseed; the latter is the choice method. GUINEA FRICASSEE Draw, singe and cut up the guineas the same as for fricassee of chicken. Put a quarter pound of sliced bacon into a good-sized stewing pan, add a half cup of water, boil until the water has evaporated and then "try" out the fat carefully, remove the cracklings and put in the guinea, turning until carefully browned. Add to the fat four tablespoonfuls of flour; mix and add one quart of stock or water, the first always preferable; stir until boiling, add a tablespoonful of chopped onion, just a suspicion of garlic, two level teaspoonfuls of salt, two salt-spoonfuls of pepper; put in the guinea hens and stew slowly one hour; when done dish, remove any fat that may come to the surface of the sauce and strain it over. Garnish the dish with squares of fried hominy or triangular pieces of toast. Serve potato croquettes, scalloped or baked tomatoes or baked onion, or garnish with boiled or baked dumplings. PIGEONS Pigeons are placed among the domestic fowls and not under the head of game. The wings are long and contain very little flesh; the legs are small and tough, but the breasts of young pigeons are fat and plump; as they grow older, being flying birds, the muscles become very hard,sometimes rather dense, and then the breast grows small and tough. Flying birds, as a rule, have small muscular breasts, while walking birds, as partridges, have plump, fat breasts. The best method of cook-infr a full-grown pigeon is "potting.' This gives the moist, slow cooking necessary to all tough birds. POTTED PIGEONS 1/2 dozen pigeons 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of kitchen bouquet 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of stock or water 1 bay leaf 1 good-sized onion 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 saltspoonful of pepper Singe, draw and wipe the pigeons with a damp cloth, then truss them into shape. Put them into a baking pan, rub the breast with butter and run them into a quick oven, to brown while you make the sauce. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, stir until boiling, add the kitchen bouquet and all the seasonings. Arrange the pigeon in the saucepan, pour over the sauce; bring to boiling point and then push to the back part of the stove, or put them into the oven and cook slowly for one and a half hours. When done, remove the trussing strings, arrange the pigeons down the centre of the meat platter and strain over the sauce. Pass with them boiled rice and stewed onions or tomatoes, peas of asparagus tips. SQUABS These are young pigeons. Split them down the back, remove the intestines, and with a heavy knife or potato masher break the breast bone; wipe them carefully inside and out with a damp cloth, and broil the same as spring chicken, or put them into a very quick oven and bake for one hour. Serve on toast or squares of fried hominy or mush. Pass with them currant jelly and green peas. As a light meat course at luncheon, pass also boiled rice. GAME Under this heading we place venison and all wild, undomesti-cated animals and birds used as food?wild ducks,geese, partridges,pheasants, prairie chicken, and such water reptiles as terrapin. Being red meat, these birds and animals are better if kept before cooking. They may be hung with feathers on, but it is desirable to have them "drawn." Do this carefully without breaking the intestines or gall, then it is not necessary to wipe the inside. Hang in a cold, dry place for a week or ten days. As all these animals store fat slowly and outside of the lean flesh, they are more easily digested than domestic meats, hence, best suited to invalids with weak, impaired digestion. VENISON A venison steak must be broiled at the very last moment and sent at once to the table; a moment's standing or delay makes the meat dense and unpalatable. Get everything ready to broil or pan the steak, broil quickly, transfer it at once to a heated dish and send to the table. Dust simply with salt and pepper. Serve with it black or red currant jelly, or guava, or Japanese quince jelly. IN A CHAFING DISH. As delays are dangerous, venison is perhaps better cooked in a chafing dish. Have the steak, neatly trimmed, brought to the table; when you are seated light the lamp, let the dish heat slowly, put in a little butter and throw in the steak. Turn once or twice, dust with salt and pepper, add two tablespoonfuls of sherry, and cover the dish for an instant; as soon as the materials boil turn the venison once or twice until it is saturated. Serve. It saves time and trouble to cut the steak into convenient pieces before cooking. TO CURE VENISON. Venison may be cured according to the rule for curing mutton hams. The meat of the deer being tender, wild and free from diseases, will keep longer in cold places than domestic meats. WOODSMAN STEW Procure for this two pounds of the pieces that are cheap and undesirable for roasting or broiling, and cut them into cubes of one inch. Put a quarter pound of sliced bacon into a good-sized saucepan, cook slowly until all the fat is tried out. Remove the cracklings. Dust the venison with one tablespoon-ful of flour, throw it into hot fat, stir until nicely browned. Draw the meat to one side, add to the fat one tablespoonful of flour, mix, and add one pint of boiling stock or water; stir constantly until boiling. Add a clove of garlic, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cover and simmer gently for one hour. Then add a grating of the yellow rind of a lemon, and if you have it, one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Cook thirty minutes; try the meat, if it is tender, take it from the fire, if not, cook thirty minutes longer, and it is ready to serve. Serve with this corn bread, fried mush or fried hominy, currant or cranberry jelly and celery or chicory salad. WOODSMAN STEW No. 2 Brown the meat according to preceding recipe; add the flour, and then one pint of hard cider; stir until boiling, add the seasoning as in preceding recipe and finish the same. OPOSSUM Skin, singe and wipe the opossum inside and out; hang it for several days, provided the weather is clear and the place perfectly cold. Fill with potato or black walnut stuffing, sew up the slit, place it in a roasting pan, add one chopped onion, a pint of boiling water, one teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Roast and baste for three hours. Have the oven very hot at first, and then cool it gently to 240 ? Fahr. Serve with the stuffed opossum, stewed cabbage, kale , or spinach, and either pan-baked apples or apple sauce, and cornbread . SQUIRRELS Squirrels may be cooked after any of the rules given for Belgian hare. These directions will also answer for common rabbits. Remember, the flesh of rabbits is rather dense and requires long, slow cooking to make it digestible. WILD TURKEY Wild turkey must be drawn, singed and cleaned precisely the same as chicken or tame turkey. Wipe inside and out with a damp cloth. Truss the turkey into shape at once; dust carefully with pepper, put a teaspoonful of salt in the bottom of the pan, and pour in a half cup of boiling water. Place in a very hot oven until thoroughly browned. Cool the oven and roast slowly fifteen minutes to every pound. Wild turkeys are much better without stuffing. Serve with them cranberry sauce, boiled onions with cream sauce, sweet or white potato croquettes; pass celery. WILD DUCKS Heading the list come the canvas-backs, then the red heads, mallard, teal, widgeon, black and wood duck. Roast or bake quickly without stuffing.Wild ducks are usually preferred rare, not raw, and smoking hot. Serve with them lettuce, celery or orange salad. Serve a half breast to each person. The left-over portions may be used for salmi or soup. TO SELECT A canvas-back duck has short smooth feathers on the head.Head and neck of male are chestnut brown; the wings and tail black with white underneath, the back and sides grayish white. The females are duller than the males; the black markings are very faint. The bills are greenish black and much longer than the head, which is rather short and compact; iris red. Canvas-back ducks are sold with feathers on; a well fattened pair will weigh six pounds. Their companions, the redheads, have longer head feathers, which gives them a sort of fluffy appearance; head, neck, and tail red, the wings black, the under part white, the same as canvas-back; the middle back and sides grayish black. Females are always of duller color than the males; the bill a dull grayish blue, with a black mark across the end, and shorter than the head; the iris yellow. These are also sold with the feathers on, a good-sized pair weighing from four and a half to five pounds. Both of these ducks are vegetable feeders, hence they lack the fishy flavor of the ordinary wild duck. BELGIAN HARE During the last few years there has been in our markets a goodly quantity of Belgian hare. As the "pelt" of Belgian hare is valuable (the fur is sold under the name of electric or near-seal), it is removed before the animal is exposed for sale; for this reason the Belgian hare has been overlooked by the average housewife. She is accustomed to buying rabbits with the skin on and is not used to the sight of a rabbit with the skin off; she always orders the rabbit "skinned," but not being a frequent visitor to her kitchen, has never perhaps seen it "naked." For this reason she objects to the market appearance of Belgian hare. In the western part of the United States, in nearly all the hotels, restaurants and private houses, Belgian hare is looked upon as a great delicacy. It is canned and sold under the name of "boned turkey." The meat is white and compact, of fine flavor and tender. They are the cleanest of all animals, and being reared for the fur, are well fed and cared for. It is said by physicians that broth made from Belgian hare is preferable to that made from beef, mutton, or chicken; that it is not so stimulating and slightly nutritious. They may be cooked in every way in which one can cook chicken?croquettes, panned, barbecued, ragout, fried, roasted, stuffed and baked, salad and cutlets. The rougher pieces may be put aside for stock. PANNED BELGIAN HARE Split the hare down through the centre; wipe it carefully with a damp cloth, but do not wash it; if there is the slightest appearance of fur on the meat, singe it. Now disjoint the hind leg and make two pieces of them; cut off the saddle; take off the fore quarter, making in all nine pieces. Arrange these neatly in a baking pan flesh side down. Dust lightly with pepper, add one tablespoonful of chopped onion and a bay leaf. Put a tea-spoonful of kitchen bouquet into one-half pint of stock or water, add one teaspoonful of salt; stir and pour into the pan. Cover with another pan, put into a quick oven and bake one and a half hours, basting frequently. A half hour before the hare is done remove the upper pan so that each piece may be nicely browned. Dish neatly and garnish with triangular pieces of toast. To the pan add two tablespoonfuls of flour and two of butter; mix and add one pint of stock or water; the pan should be dry when the hare is done. Stir the sauce until boiling, add a half teaspoonful of salt, and if you like, a can of mushrooms that have been drained and washed. Pour this over the hare, dust with chopped parsley and send at once to the table. BELGIAN HARE RAGOUT Disjoint according to preceding recipe and follow the rule for chicken ragout. BELGIAN HARE STUFFED AND BAKED Singe and wipe the hare. Have ready either a potato or chestnut stuffing; fill this into the hare, sew it up carefully and put into a baking pan; add to the pan a half cup of stock, one teaspoonful of pepper; put into a quick oven and bake one and a half hours, basting every ten minutes. Turn the hare several times while baking. Dish on a deep bed of cress. To carve cut off first the hind legs, then the fore quarters, then the meat from the saddle. A hare of good size will weigh from four and a half to five pounds, and will serve eight people. Pass with this carefully cooked peas or asparagus tips or string beans . As a supper dish or for luncheon serve with it a mayonnaise of celery. Pass also black currant or guava jelly. BELGIAN HARE SALAD Clean and singe the hare, cut it into three pieces, put them into a kettle; add slices of onion, a bay leaf and cover with boiling water; boil rapidly for five minutes, then simmer gently for one hour and a half. Finish precisely the same as chicken salad. BELGIAN HARE CUTLETS Boil the hare the same as for salad. Then follow the recipe for chicken croquettes, using the water in which the hare was boiled instead of milk. When cold form into cutlet-shaped croquettes, dip and fry. Serve with either brown or tomato sauce and pass peas or mayonnaise of celery. FILLETS OF HARE a la CASTILLANE Singe and wipe with a damp cloth one Belgian hare. Take off the hind legs, make two pieces of each, divide the saddle in three, cutting right across the hare : make one fillet from each front leg; save the rougher pieces and a portion of the carcass for stock. Put the fillets into shape; it is not necessary to bone them. Brush them thoroughly with a mixture of two table-spoonfuls of melted butter and four of sherry; let them stand for two to three hours; dip them in beaten egg to which yon have added one tablespoonful of water; roll them in bread crumbs and plunge them into hot fat; as soon as they are brown push the pan to one side of the stove where the cutlets will cook slowly for about twenty to thirty minutes. While these are cooking make a large square crouton from the centre of a loaf of bread. Dip in beaten egg to which you have added a tablespoonful of milk. Make a brown mushroom or tomato sauce. Pour the sauce in the bottom of the dish; lift the hare from the oil or fat, and rest it on brown paper for a moment to drain. Plunge the crouton into the hot fat, brown quickly, put it to one end of the platter; arrange the hare neatly against it. Put the mushrooms at one end around the hare and garnish the crouton with a hatlet skewer on which you have placed mushrooms, radish, olive or pieces of truffle. Add parsley here and there and send at once to the table. This recipe will also answer for FRIED SWEETBREADS, FRENCH FRIED CHICKEN OR DUCK. STUFFINGS PLAIN BREAD STUFFING Cut from the loaf slices of bread a half inch in thickness; butter them carefully. Trim off the crusts which put aside for drying and rolling- purposes, or they may be used for scalloped dishes. Cut the bread into dice, add to each quart one table-spoonful of parsley, one teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Mix thoroughly and it is ready for use. This will be sufficient for one chicken. For a turkey make twice this quantity; the bread must not be moistened or it will be soggy at the end of the cooking. For Onion Stuffing or Dressing, add to the preceding recipe two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. For Oyster Dressing, add twenty-five oysters after they have been drained and washed. For Celery Dressing, add a half pint of finely chopped celery. If this is not at hand, sprinkle over it a teaspoonful of celery seed. TOMATO STUFFING This is made from plain bread stuffing, adding four tomatoes, peeled, seeds squeezed out, and flesh chopped fine. CHESTNUT STUFFING Shell one quart of large chestnuts and scald them until the brown skins have softened; drain, turn them on a coarse towel, cover with another towel and rub with the hands until they are blanched. Wash, cover with fresh boiling water and cook slowly until they are tender. Drain and chop rather fine, or they may be mashed through a colander. Add a level teaspoon-ful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a rounding tablespoonful of butter, melted; mix, and the dressing is ready for use, 2X2 To make Mushroom Stuffing, add one can of drained, washed mushrooms, chopped fine, to the preceding recipe. To make Truffle Stuffing, add four truffles washed and chopped very fine. POTATO STUFFING Pare one pound of potatoes ; throw them into boiling water, and boil until tender. Drain and sprinkle over them one tea-spoonful of salt, shake over the fire until dry; put them through a vegetable press or colander; add a saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of grated onion and one tablespoonful of butter, melted, or two tablespoonfuls of cream. Mix thoroughly and use for ducks and geese. POTATO WITH CELERY Follow the above directions and add a half pint of finely chopped celery instead of onion. SAGE STUFFING Add two tablespoonfuls of sage to plain potato stuffing, and omit the onion. Or make a plain bread stuffing, and add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sage. This is used for the stuffing of roasted pig. WALNUT STUFFING Make a potato stuffing, omit the onion and add a half pint of chopped English or black walnuts. This dressing is used for tame ducks and rabbits. SAUSAGE STUFFING 1/2 pound of sausage meat 1/2 pint of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of onion juice 1 tablespoonful of parsley 1 teaspoonful of pepper Mix well all the ingredients, and use for chicken or turkey. These heavy dressings are, however, not to be recommended; in fact all poultry is far better without stuffing, MEAT SAUCES When one becomes perfectly familiar with the philosophy of a sauce, all sauces are quickly and easily made, and without continual reference to written recipes. A rounding tablespoonful of flour, weighs a half ounce. A rounding tablespoonful of butter or fat, one ounce. These two measurements are used to each half pint of liquid; if the fat is measured melted, two tablespoonfnls will be counted as one. If you are making tomato sauce, for instance, use one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed together, then add a half pint of strained tomato. For a white or cream sauce, the same measurement of butter and flour, one tablespoonful of each rubbed together and a half pint of milk, and so changing the liquid one may make many sauces. In making roasted beef gravy, pour the fat from the pan, reserving the given quantity. Here the fat will be liquid or melted, as it is hot; use two tablespoonfuls with one rounding tablespoonful of flour, and a half pint of water or stock. Always rub the fat and flour together, add the liquids cold, unless otherwise directed, and stir until they reach the boiling point. In this way the flour is most thoroughly cooked and not rendered indigestible as when cooked in the fat. Butter and flour cooked together form a very objectionable compound. When fat comes to the surface of a sauce., too much fat has been used. Under all circumstances the fat must be rubbed with the flour, the liquid then added, otherwise you will have a greasy, separated sauce. If the sauce boils after it has once reached the boiling point it will also separate. It must be strained at once into the gravy bowl or kept over warm or hot water. A brown sauce may be colored with caramel, burnt onion or kitchen bouquet. A brown sauce must be brown, a white sauce, white, and a yellow sauce, yellow. WHITE OR CREAM SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 level saltspoonful of pepper Rub the butter and flour together in the. saucepan, add the milk cold, stir constantly over the fire until it just reaches the boiling point; add the salt and pepper and it is ready for use. This sauce may be strained over boiled potatoes , either whole or cut into blocks, or it may be used for stewed turnip, carrots, boiled chicken or asparagus. EGG SAUCE This is made by adding four hard boiled eggs, chopped fine, to the preceding recipe for white or cream sauce, when served with chicken. To an English drawn butter sauce, when served with boiled fish. TOMATO SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of strained tomatoes 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 level saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 bay leaf Strain the tomatoes, add the onion and bay leaf, salt and pepper. Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan; add the tomato, stir until boiling; stand over hot water for ten minutes, strain and it is ready for use. COOKING SCHOOL SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 cup of stock 1/2 cup of milk 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 level saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet Rub the flour and butter together; fill the cup half full of stock, then fill it up with milk; add this to the butter and flour, stir constantly until boiling; add the seasoning. This is an exceedingly nice sauce for chipped beef or warmed-over meats, DRAWN BUTTER 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of boiling water 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Rub the butter and flour together; add slowly, beating all the while, the boiling water; stir until it reaches the boiling point; add the salt and pepper and it is ready to use for asparagus, or such boiled vegetables, as parsnips and salsify. With the addition of a tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice, it may be used for boiled fish. ENGLISH DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE This is made the same as preceding recipe, adding a tablespoonful of butter after taking the sauce from the fire. SAUCE a la BORDELAISE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 1/2 cups of stock 2 bay leaves 1 chopped onion 1 saltspoonful of celery seed 1/2 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet 1 can or a half pound mushrooms Put the stock, onion, celery seed, bay leaves, over the fire and boil rapidly five minutes. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock strained; stir until boiling and perfectly smooth, add the kitchen bouquet, a teaspoonful of salt, a level saltspoonful of pepper, and the mushrooms, canned or fresh; stand over hot water for twenty minutes and it is ready for use. BROWN SAUCE If this is to be made with roasted meat, use the fat in the pan in which the meat was roasted or baked. To each two table-spoonfuls of this, allow one tablespoonful of flour, and a half pint of stock; put the flour into the pan, mix it with the fat, then add the stock all at one time. Stir constantly until boiling, season; add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Meat sauces may also be flavored with one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, or one tablespoonful of tomato catsup, or mushroom catsup or onion juice. BROWN TOMATO SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 cup of stock 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1/2 cup of strained tomato 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 level saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet Put the butter into a saucepan, add the chopped onion; cook, stirring all the while, until the onion is slightly brown without browning the butter. Add the flour, mix, add the tomato and stock and the seasoning. Stir constantly and carefully until it reaches the boiling point, stand over a hot fire for five minutes and strain. CAPER SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of boiling water 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of capers 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Rub the flour and butter together and add gradually the boiling water. Bring to boiling point, add the salt and pepper and capers. Serve in a boat with boiled mutton. SAUCE VELOUTE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of white pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of chicken stock Rub the flour and butter together as usual, add the stock, cold; stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper. Serve as a sauce for boiled, fried or stewed chicken. It may be changed into Sauce Allemande by adding the yolks of two eggs at the last moment. Sauces cannot be boiled after yolks of eggs are added. SAUCE BECHAMEL 1 tablespoonful of butter - 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 cup of chicken stock 1/2 cup of milk 1 slice of onion 1 tablespoonful of chopped carrots 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 saltspoonful of celery seed Put the butter into the saucepan; add the vegetables, stir them until slightly browned. Then add the flour, mix, add the stock and milk. Stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper. Strain and it is ready for use. Add two tablespoonfuls of cream and a half can of chopped mushrooms to sauce Bechamel to make French Mushroom Sauce. SPANISH SAUCE 1 1/2 pints of stock 1/4 ounce of gelatin (1 tablespoonful) 4 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion A sprig of parsley 1 tablespoonful of chopped celery 1 tablespoonful of carrot (chopped) 1 bay leaf 3 whole cloves A blade of mace 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper Add the seasoning to the stock, boil rapidly until reduced to a pint. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, strained, stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper and one teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. The gelatin should be soaked with two tablespoonfuls of cold water while you are making the sauce; add it at the last moment and strain again. This is the richest and nicest of all brown sauces and may be served with stewed or panned chicken or any meat dishes requiring a brown sauce. CELERY SAUCE 1 bunch or head of celery 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 pint of stock or water 6 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Wash the celery and cut into pieces, using green tops. Cover with the water or stock and cook until tender. Press through a colander, rub the butter and flour together, add the water and pulp and stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper. This sauce may be served with boiled chicken or boiled mutton, or fricassee of chicken or rabbit. ITALIAN SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 gill of stock 1 gill of strained tomato 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Mix the tomato and stock and add them to the butter and flour rubbed together; stir until boiling, add salt and pepper. This sauce may be served with steak, Hamburg steaks or hashed beef. CHESTNUT SAUCE 1/2 pint of chestnuts 1 pint of white stock 2 rounding tablespoonfuls of butter 1 level tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 cup of cream Shell and blanch the chestnuts, cover with the boiling stock and cook gently for twenty minutes. Mash through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour together, add the chestnuts, mix and stir over the fire until it reaches the boiling point. Add the cream, salt and pepper. This sauce should be rather thick and is especially nice with boiled or roasted poultry. OYSTER SAUCE 25 oysters 1 gill (1/2 cup) milk I level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of onion juice Drain and wash the oysters, throw them into a saucepan, stir until the gills curl. Drain, saving the liquor. Add to it the milk. Rub the butter and flour together; add the onions, liquor and milk, and stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper. Serve with boiled or roasted poultry or boiled fish. MUSHROOM SAUCE If canned mushrooms are to be used, simply add one can of washed mushrooms to a white or cream sauce. Stand the whole over hot water for ten minutes. Do not cook canned mushrooms, it toughens them. This sauce is used with chicken tim-bales, sweetbreads, either stewed or creamed, or with warmed-over chicken. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE This sauce is much better when made from fresh mushrooms. Where canned mushrooms must be used simply add one can of mushrooms to a rich brown sauce. FRESH MUSHROOM SAUCE 1/2 pound of fresh mushrooms 1 tablespoonful of flour 6 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the mushrooms, do not peel, cut them into quarters, throw them into a saucepan with the butter. Add the salt and pepper, Cover the saucepan, place it over a very moderate fire where the mushrooms will cook slowly for twenty minutes. Rub the flour and cream together. Dip a little of the mushroom liquor into the bowl, then strain this into the mushrooms. Stir until boiling and serve. This is the foundation when fresh mushrooms are to be used with sweetbreads. Simply add the parboiled sweetbreads to this sauce, and when hot, serve. It is also the foundation of chicken with fresh mushrooms, or used as a sauce with chicken cutlets, broiled or fried chicken. BROWN FRESH MUSHROOM SAUCE 1/2 lb. of fresh mushrooms 1/2 cup of stock 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 level tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of cream Wash the mushrooms, cut them into quarters, put them into the saucepan with the butter, stock, salt and pepper. Cover and cook very slowly for thirty minutes. Moisten the flour with the cream, add to it a little of the liquor from the pan strain into the mushrooms and it is ready for use. Add half teaspoon-ful of kitchen bouquet if the sauce it not sufficiently brown but as a rule it is almost black. Serve with beefsteak or any of the browned meat dishes. CURRANT JELLY SAUCE Add four tablespoonfuls of currant jelly to one gill (1/2 cup) of good rich stock. Turn this into the dish in which the game has been roasted. Bring to the boiling point and it is ready for use. CURRY SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful curry powder 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Put the butter and onion into a saucepan, stir until the onion is slightly brown. Add the curry, stir, take from the fire, add the flour, mix thoroughly and add a half pint of boiling water. Return to the fire and stir until the sauce is smooth and has reached the boiling point. Add the salt and lemon juice, and strain. Serve with boiled rice, curried chicken, cauliflower, lima bean s, or boiled tomatoes. CRANBERRY SAUCE 1 quart of cranberries 1 pint of water 1 pound of granulated sugar Wash the cranberries in cold water, put them into a porcelain or granite kettle, add the water, cover the kettle and bring to the boiling point. This will take about five minutes. Press them through a colander, add the sugar and stir over the fire, just a moment, until the sugar is thoroughly melted, and turn out to cool. Serve with poultry, game or mutton. CRANBERRY SAUCE No. 2 1 pound of apples 1 quart of cranberries 1 quart of water 1 pound of granulated sugar Core the apples, but do not pare, and cut them into quarters. Put them with the water over the fire, and when boiling add the cranberries; cook five minutes or until the berries are soft. Then press the whole through a colander; add the sugar and stir until it is dissolved; reheat if necessary. Use the same as plain cranberry sauce. CRANBERRY SAUCE No. 3 1 quart of cranberries 1 quart of water 2 level tablespoonfuls of farina or 2 of cornstarch 1 pound of sugar Put the washed berries and water over the fire, boil five minutes; press through a colander; return to the fire; add sugar and cornstarch moistened; stir until boiling. Take at once from the fire and cool. Or farina may be mixed with the sugar. GOOSEBERRY SAUCE 1 pint of green gooseberries 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg 4 tablespoonfuls of stock 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Wash the gooseberries, put them into a saucepan with four tablespoonfuls of water, cover and cook until tender?about ten minutes. Press through a sieve, reheat, add all the other ingredients. Serve with boiled, broiled or fried mackerel. Rhubarb Sauce, made in the same way, may be substituted for gooseberries. SORREL SAUCE 1 pint of sorrel leaves 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of cream 6 tablespoonfuls of stock Wash the sorrel, throw in the saucepan with the stock, cover and steam gently for ten minutes, until the sorrel is tender. Press through a sieve; reheat and add all the other ingredients. Serve with veal cutlets or ducklings. CEYLON SAUCE 4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 2 tart apples 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 saltspoonful of paprica Core the apples, steam them with the skins on until tender, press them through a sieve, add the horseradish and the other ingredients. Serve with curried chicken, curried veal or cold boiled veal, or jellied veal. MINT SAUCE I bunch or twelve stalks of mint 1 tablespoonful of sugar 1/2 cup of vinegar Wash the mint, pick the leaves from the stems and chop them very fine; add the sugar, rub the two well together, add gradually the vinegar, cover and stand aside for one hour. Serve in a boat with spring lamb. APPLE SAUCE 1 pound of tart apples 1 pint of water 1/2 cup of sugar Quarter and core the apples, but do not pare them. Add the water, cover the saucepan and bring quickly to the boiling point. Press through a colander, add the sugar and turn out to cool. Serve with duck, goose, young pig, or roasted pork. BREAD SAUCE 1 pint of milk 1/2 pound of stale bread crumbs 1 good-sized onion 1 saltspoonful of ground mace 1/2 saltspoonful of paprica 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the milk in a double boiler, add the onion chopped, rub the bread in the hand until quite fine, removing every particle of crust. Then add to the milk, cover the boiler and allow the water underneath to boil for five minutes. Add the mace, paprica and salt. Beat with an egg beater until quite smooth and then stir in the butter, or add four tablespoonfuls of cream instead of the butter, and turn at once into a sauce boat. Serve with roasted turkey, chicken or game. This sauce may also be made from chicken stock in place of milk. MELTED BUTTER SAUCE Put a quarter of a pound of butter into the double boiler, melt slowly and then strain it carefully through a fine sieve. Leave the sediment in the saucepan. Add a dash of paprica or white pepper and serve in a small sauce boat, with boiled asparagus or plain boiled or broiled lobster. SAUCE BERNAISE Yolks of 4 eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of stock 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion Put the onion and bay leaf in the vinegar, bring to the boiling point and cool. Beat the eggs, add the oil, then the stock and pepper. Stand the bowl over a saucepan of hot water and heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to thicken and is jelly-like. Be very careful not to curdle. Take from the fire and when cool add the vinegar, strained. Press the sauce through a fine sieve, add the salt and stand aside to cool. This sauce is served cold with hot meat or fish dishes, as fried fish, deviled crabs, lobster or broiled fillet of beef. SAUCE TARTARE This is made by adding two olives, one gherkin, one table-spoonful of capers and one tablespoonful of parsley, chopped fine, to one-half pint of mayonnaise dressing, or you may use Sauce Bernaise as a foundation. SAUCE HOLLANDAISE 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour Yolks of two eggs 1/2 tcaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1 tablespoonful chopped onion 1/2 pint boiling Put the bay leaf and onion in the vinegar, bring to the boiling point and cool. Rub the butter and flour together, add gradually the water, stir until boiling, add the vinegar, strained. Take from the fire, stir in gradually the yolks of the eggs. Heat very gently just a moment, add the salt and pepper, and strain at once in the sauce boat. This is one of the most elegant of the fish sauces. Lemon juice may be added in place of the vinegar. If the sauce is to be served with boiled fish, use a half pint of water in which the fish was boiled. SAUCE SOUBISE 3 good-sized onions 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the onion into thin slices. Throw them into boiling water and boil rapidly ten minutes. Drain and put them with the milk into a double boiler; cook until the onions are tender; press through a sieve. Rub the flour and butter together, add the onion and milk, stir until boiling, add the salt and pepper. Strain again and it is ready to serve with boiled fowl or roasted turkey. To make BROWN SOUBISE use a half pint of stock in the place of the milk, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Manipulate; precisely the same as for white soubise. SAUCE SUPREME 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of chicken stock Yolks of two eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of cream Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, stir until boiling, take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs and cream, beaten together, salt and pepper; mix; stir over hot water until perfectly hot. Be careful not to curdle. Strain and it is ready to serve with boiled chicken, chicken cutlets, ragout of chicken or chicken hash. CLARET SAUCE FOR GAME 1/2 pint claret 4 tablespoonfuls of stock 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 1 teaspoonful of grated horseradish 1 saltspoonful of paprika 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Mix all the ingredients together thoroughly and heat gradually in a double boiler or over hot water. Do not allow it to boil. Serve immediately. CIDER SAUCE 1 pint of cider 2 whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 6 whole pepper corns (crushed) 1 saltspoonful of celery seed, or 1 tablespoonful of chopped celery 1 bay leaf Put the cider over the fire, boil rapidly for five minutes and add all the seasoning. Boil until reduced one-half, strain and it is ready for use. Serve with boiled or baked ham. SAUCE PIQUANTE 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 tablespoonful of capers 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkin 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1/2 saltspoonful of paprik 4 tablespoonfuls of good consomme Add the vinegar to the consomme, mix, and add all the other ingredients. Add also, if you like, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Serve with boiled calf 's head, boiled mutton, pigs ' feet soused, or plain boiled lobster. VINEGAR SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of stock 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful chopped gherkin 3 olives 1 teaspoonful of grated onion 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of arragon vinegar Put the vinegar, bay leaf and onion over the fire. Bring to the boiling point and cool. Rub the butter and flour. Add gradually the stock, stir until it reaches the boiling point. Add the vinegar, strained, and all the other seasoning, the olives, chopped fine. Serve with baked or boiled calf 's head, pigs' feet, haggis or sheep's trotters. HORSERADISH SAUCE 4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish 6 tablespoonfuls of thick cream 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice Yolk of one egg Add the salt and yolk to the horseradish and mix thoroughly. Whip the cream to a stiff froth, fold it into the horseradish carefully, add gradually the vinegar and send at once to the table. If the horseradish is in vinegar, simply press it perfectly dry, add the egg and salt, mix, and fold in at the last the whipped cream, omitting, of course, the lemon juice or vinegar, Serve with cold roast beef, or with hot boiled beef or corned beef. CUCUMBER SAUCE 4 large cucumbers 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 onion 1 saltspoonful of pepper 6 tablespoonfuls of cream 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar Pare the cucumbers, throw them into cold water, soak for a half hour, then grate them on a sieve. When the pulp is thoroughly drained, put it into a bowl, add the salt, onion, tarragon vinegar, and juice of one onion. Whip the cream to a thick froth, stir gradually into the cucumbers, and serve at once with creamed fish, deviled fish, broiled or planked fish, or cold mutton. COLD TOMATO SAUCE 6 tomatoes 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 6 tablespoonfuls of cream Peel the tomatoes, cut them into halves and press out the seeds. Chop the flesh of the tomato very fine, drain on a sieve and, when dry, add the salt and pepper and fold in carefully the cream that has been whipped to a stiff froth. Serve with cold roasted beef, mutton, or curries. RAISIN SAUCE 1/2 cup of sultanas 1 saltspoonful of ground ginger Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful chopped onion 1 tablespoonful chopped carrots 1 saltspoonful of celery seed 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of stock Put the onion and carrots into the butter, cook slowly until slightly browned. Then add the raisins, stir until the raisins are hot. Draw to one side, add the flour and the stock, stir until boiling, add all the seasonings, strain and serve with boiled salt or fresh beef 's tongue, or hot corned beef. JAPANESE FISH SAUCE 1 saltspoonful of paprika 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut catsup 2 tablespoonfuls of soy 1 pint of tarragon vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce 1 shalot 2 cloves of garlic Pound the garlic and shalot, put them into a large bottle and add all the other ingredients. Cork the bottle, shake well every day for two weeks. Strain it into small bottles, seal and in six days it would be ready for use. CHILLI SAUCE FOR BROILED LOBSTER 6 tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1 chilli or a drop of tobasco 1 clove of garlic 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed or 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped celery 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Peel and cut the tomatoes i nto halves and press out the seeds; chop the flesh very fine, drain the pulp in a sieve and then add the celery or celery seed, salt and tarragon vinegar. Rub the bowl thoroughly with a clove of garlic; then turn in the chilli sauce. Put one large chilli into the oven for a few minutes until the skin begins to crack; peel and cut into halves, remove the seeds and chop the flesh very fine, add this to the tomato and,it is ready for use. In the absence of chilli add a drop of tobasco. LOBSTER SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of lobster stock or water 1/2 pint of boiled lobster with coral 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Crush the small claws and put them in a saucepan, add the meat from the body, chopped; cover with one pint of cold water. Add one bay leaf, and a slice of onion. Simmer gently until reduced one-half. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, strained, stir until boiling, add the salt and pepper. Mash the coral from the lobster, add it gradually to the sauce, mix, then add the claw meat cut into dice. Stand over hot water for ten minutes and serve with boiled fish, fish timbale, or fish cutlets. If the lobster is without coral, color the sauce with a drop of cochineal. SHRIMP SAUCE Use one can of shrimps or one pint of boiled shrimps. Mash half the shrimps, add a slice of onion, a bay leaf, and cover with a pint of cold water. Simmer gently for thirty minutes and strain. Then add one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed together. Stir until smooth and boiling. Add one tea-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and the remaining shrimps, carefully washed and dried. Stand over hot water ten minutes and serve, with boiled fish, or a large fish timbale. ROE SAUCE 1 set of shad roe 1/4 pound of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 saltspoonful of ground mace 6 tablespoonfuls of Madeira (if you use it) 1 level teaspoonful of salt Wash the roe carefully, put them into boiling water, cover the saucepan and cook slowly below the boiling point for a half hour. Drain and remove all the membrane carefully. Put the roe into a saucepan, add the butter, stand the saucepan over a pan of hot water and add all the other seasonings. Stir constantly until very hot and it is ready for use. Serve in sauce boat with planked or broiled fish. [illustration] Sirloin Roast Page 231 An illustration of a Rib Roast and a Sirloin Roast. Rolled Roast Page 232 An illustration of a Rolled Roast. CARVING When putting a piece of meat into shape, use a trussing needle and white twine. These will be easily removed after the cooking. If skewers must be used, steel ones are preferable, as they are easily seen and removed before the meat is sent to the table. Wooden skewers are an abomination, and should not be used under any circumstances. RIB ROAST As beef is served almost every day in the average American home, we will discuss first the common rib roast, the flavor of which is spoiled by the removal of the bones. Chop off a portion of the lower rib, and "top" the roast. Place the meat, bone side down, in the roasting pan. It requires no fastenings of any sort. When done, dish the joint on a large platter; good carving cannot be done in cramped quarters. Garnish one end of the platter with a large bunch of parsley or crisp celery tops. First cut off the upper part from A to B, then run the knife at C close to the ribs, loosen the meat from the bone and around the butt end to B. Next cut off the outside slices, D to E, and place it on one side of the dish. Then cut thin slices, drawing the knife toward you. SIRLOIN ROAST To carve a sirloin roast, first cut out the tenderloin, A to B, close to the bone; next remove end, C to D; then remove the sirloin, cutting close to the bone, from E to F. Slice the meat across the grain, beginning at E; the tenderloin from the bone to B. In serving ask preference, as many persons do not like tenderloin. Serve to those wishing fat, a thin slice from the upper end. FILLET OF BEEF A fillet or tenderloin of beef is universally served with mushroom sauce. In the head or butt of the fillet, stand a fancy skewer garnished with mushrooms, truffles and olives. Garnish this end of the platter with curly parsley or cress, and pour around the mushroom sauce; cut in thick slices directly across the fillet, beginning at the large end. SIRLOIN STEAK Garnish a broiled sirloin steak with French fried potatoes, and slices of lemon covered thickly with finely chopped parsley; or at the head of the dish place a bunch of fresh curly parsley, studded with tiny red radishes. To carve, first run the knife close to the bone, removing the tenderloin; then on the other side, removing the sirloin. Carve the meat from the bone to the edge, serving a thin slice of tenderloin and sirloin to each person, not forgetting the gravy. Carve a Round Steak in thin strips across the grain. Garnish a Rolled and Braised Steak with tomato sauce, and finely chopped parsley. Carve across the roll, the same as a fillet, cutting it in thin even slices. BONED RIB ROAST Dish a "rolled" roast, as shown in cut. To carve, cut first a thin slice from the outside, and then cut thin even slices, drawing the knife from A to B toward you. BEEF a la MODE Dish beef a la mode on a large platter. Garnish a silver skewer with a ball of carrot, a radish, a ball of turnip, and, if you have it, a mushroom, and stick it through the centre of the beef. Fill the bottom of the dish with rich brown sauce; garnish the ends of the platter with pieces of carrot and turnips cut into fancy shapes, and small pieces of stewed Larded and Cooked Fillet Page 232 aN ILLUSTRATION OF A lARDED AND cOOKED fILLET. Saddle of Mutton Page 233 An illustration of a Saddle of Mutton. celery. Around the edge of the sauce, where it meets the dish, put a thick rope of finely chopped parsley. Stick a fork into one side of the beef and cut a thick slice from the top and then cut the meat across in thin slices, the same as rolled beef, serving fat and lean together. FRESH BEEF TONGUE Dish the tongue in the centre of a large platter, fill this with brown sauce, and garnish with the vegetables that have been used in the braising. Carve by cutting directly across, beginning at the thick or butt end of the tongue. Serve at each helping a portion of the underneath fat, some of the vegetables and sauce. BEEF HEART Place the heart in the centre of the platter, removing carefully the strings and skewers. Fill the bottom of the dish with nicely boiled kidney beans or flageolets and pour over brown sauce. Where the sauce and the plate come together, put a row of small triangular pieces of toasted bread. Carve in thin slices directly across, beginning at the tip. SADDLE OF MUTTON This is, perhaps, one of the most difficult pieces of meat to carve well. Before cooking, the flank should be folded under, the tail turned over the back, and the whole fastened into shape. When cooked, place it on a handsome bed of cress in a large platter. Stud the cress here and there with ripe olives or round balls of winter radishes cut with a vegetable scoop. Make a long cut parallel with and near the backbone from A to B; stick the fork in the opening and cut thin slices the entire length of the saddle. Give each piece a little twirl as you put it on the plate, making it compact. Turn the saddle, cut out the kidneys and the tenderloin; then cut the crisp fat at the ribs, from C to D, in thin slices. At each helping serve a piece of the kidney and fat with the lean meat. Pass plain brown or mushroom sauce. LOIN of MUTTON See that the loin is well cracked at each rib before cooking. Dish with the skin side up, and garnish the platter with a thick ring of curly parsley. Cut through from A to B at each joint. Serve one rib at each helping. A Loin of Veal is carved in precisely the same manner. LEG of MUTTON Dish the leg fleshy side up, and small bone to the left of the plate; garnish with cress and trim the end bone with a quill of paper. Stick the carving fork far down into the knuckle end at O, drawing the leg toward you; then insert the knife at A, and cut directly down to the bone at B. Continue to slice the meat down to the bone until you reach the larger bone at the fleshy end of the leg; then run your knife, cutting from C to D along the bone, loosening all slices as indicated in the illustration. A Haunch of Venison is carved the same. Garnish the dish with cress, or celery tips. SHOULDER OF MUTTON A shoulder of mutton is much more complicated than the leg. Place it, bone side down, on the platter; garnish this with cress, or chicory and pimolas. Trim the shank bone with a quill of paper. Insert the carving fork at the knuckle end at O, and pull the shoulder over. Begin to carve from A to B, cutting all the slices down to the same point; at last, with a twist of the knife, cut and remove them all. The flesh is wedge-shaped. Now cut the flesh on top of the bone from this opening to C. At the lower part of the shoulder, cut the fat in thin slices from D to E. Serve a bit of fat with each slice of lean meat. Carve a stuffed shoulder in thin slices directly across the roll, beginning at the small end. Loin of Mutton Page 234 An illustration of a Loin of Mutton. Leg of Mutton Page 234 An illustration of a Leg of Mutton. Shoulder of Mutton Page 234 An illustration of a Shoulder of Mutton. LAMB Lamb is sold by the quarter, the fore quarter being first choice. Have the bones thoroughly cracked before roasting; when done place the joints on a large platter, skin side down. Gar-nish the platter with young cress studded here and there with little red spring radishes. To carve the fore quarter, cut down through each rib and then cut thin slices from the shoulder. Cut the hind quarter through the loin, and thin slices from the leg. At each helping serve a portion of lean and fat. A CUSHION OF VEAL Dish, garnish, carve and serve precisely the same as beef a la mode. TURKEY OR CHICKEN Place the turkey or chicken so that the breast will be at the left hand of the carver. Insert the carving fork at the small end of the breastbone, O, plunging it down so as to gain good command. First cut off the leg with the second joint, A to B; then the wings C to D on the side farthest from you. Tip the turkey from you, and take off the leg and wing from the side toward you. Next carve thin slices from each side of the breast, in directions indicated, from the lines E to F. Then remove the wish- bone from the carcass by cutting from G to H. Cut through the ribs from H to I, first on one side, then on the other. With a quick turn of the knife, divide the front or breast from the back of the carcass. Now remove the fork, which has not been withdrawn from first to last. Divide the second joint from the drumsticks, and make two pieces of each. Then divide the back, lower and upper half, at the second rib joint. The turkey is now ready for serving. At each helping give a portion of the dark and white meat unless a preference is expressed. Where the family is small the whole turkey need not be carved; cut the necessary quantity from one side only. If the turkey is stuffed, make an opening from J to K suffi- ciently large to allow the entrance of a tablespoon. Garnish the plate at the breast end of the turkey with a large bunch of parsley studded with olives or pimolas. Decorate the leg bones with quills of paper, and underneath the rump put another bunch of parsley. Capons and Wild Turkey are carved in the same manner. DUCK These directions will answer also for Goose. Place the duck on the platter, the breast toward the left hand; garnish with celery tips or cress. Goose is usually garnished with sourkraut. Plunge the fork in the lower part of the breastbone at O; remove the leg, cutting from A to B, then the wing from C to D. Turn the duck, remove the leg and wing from the opposite side. Next cut the breast into slices from E to F. Make a slash from G to H sufficiently large to help the stuffing, and remove the fork. Serve a slice of the breast and a little stuffing at each helping. Ducks are much more difficult to carve than chickens or turkeys. It requires considerable dexterity, even by an experienced carver, to furnish more than four fine cuts from either a duck or goose. Serve only the breasts of wild ducks; leave the remaining portion to be served in timbale or salmi for next day's luncheon. BROILED CHICKEN Garnish broiled chicken with blocks of guava jelly on tiny rounds of fried or toasted bread. In between, place a small bunch of curly parsley. Broiled or panned chickens are split down the back before cooking. To carve, insert the fork in the breastbone, and cut the chicken into halves, then into quarters. Garnish panned chicken with tiny sweet potato pyramid croquettes and corn fritters . Turkey or Chicken Page 235 An illustration of a Carved Turkey or Chicken. DUck or Goose Page 236 An illustration of a Carved Duck or Goose. Boned Chicken in Jelly, Cold Carved the same as Broiled Chicken Page 237 An illustration of a Boned Chicken in Jelly, Cold. BONED CHICKEN A boned chicken or turkey, in fact, any boned fowl, when served hot, should be garnished with cream sauce and mushrooms. Insert the fork in the middle of what would be the breastbone, and cut in thin slices, beginning at the neck end. BIRDS Woodcock, plover and snipes are all served in the same manner. Garnish with cress, and tiny bread patties filled with guava jelly. Serve a whole bird at each helping. To carve the larger game, as pheasants or prairie chickens, cut down through the breastbone from A to B, dividing them into halves. Serve one half at a helping. Small birds, such as reed or rail birds, grouse, or quail, are always served whole. Broiled or panned quail are split down the back before cooking. Serve on slices of toasted bread or fried mush, and garnish with parsley. Serve a whole bird with accompanying toast or mush at each helping. Small birds, such as reed birds or rail birds, are frequently served in cases. Cut off the ends of a white or sweet potato, scoop out the centre, and place the bird inside to roast. Dish the potato with head sticking out, and garnish with cress. Reed birds may also be dished in onion cups. Cut the onions into halves, throw them into salted water and cook until perfectly tender; take out the centres, and arrange the cups neatly on a platter on squares of toast with a reed bird in each; the ends of the platter may be garnished with white celery tops and olives. RABBITS AND HARES If roasted and served whole, these are arranged in a sort of kneeling position, pressed down into a bed of mashed potatoes or cress; the latter is to be preferred. Stick the fork in the middle of the back, remove the hind quarter and the shoulder from one side; then tilt the rabbit without removing the fork, and cut the joints from the side toward you. Make three pieces of the back, before removing the fork; then divide the two joints of the hind legs, making nine pieces. The saddle and the second joints of the hind leg are the choice pieces. As Belgian hares are much larger than ordinary rabbits, the saddle may be divided into halves. One Belgian hare will serve eight people. SUCKING PIG After the pig is roasted stand it in a deep bed of cress in the centre of a large platter. Remove the cork from the mouth, and put in its place a small red apple. Dot the cress here and there with quarters of unpared red apples or tiny button radishes. To carve, first remove the head, A to B, then the ham, C to D, next the shoulder, E to F, on the side toward you. Tilt the pig slightly, and remove the ham and shoulder from the opposite side. Now make a cut the entire length of the belly, G to H, exposing the stuffing. Next cut thin slices of meat from I to J, remove the fork and carve the head. Take off the ears first; then sever the lower jaw, carving little slices to the bone. Next cut the ham; then the shoulder, just as you would a leg and shoulder of mutton. In serving give each person a piece of lean meat from the leg and a piece of fat meat from the body and a little stuffing. As many persons prefer a portion of the head, ear, or lower jaw, it is well to ask preference. FISH Boiled and baked fish are carved in the same manner. Use always a silver knife and fork; steel spoils the flavor of the fish. Garnish with parsley and quarters of lemons. To carve, first cut off the head from A to B; then run the knife through the fish as close to the backbone as possible from C to D. Cut the upper half into slices or pieces as indicated by the dotted lines. After serving the upper portion, loosen the backbone and turn it to the back part of the plate. Cut and serve the under side, the same as you did the upper. Planked or broiled fish are cut through the backbone. Be careful, however, to strike the joints, breaking them quickly; otherwise the flesh of the fish is mashed, and both the flavor and appearance are spoiled. Pheasant Page 237 An illustration of a Pheasant. Roast Pig Page 23S An illustration of a Roast Pig. Fish Page 23S An illustration of a Fish. SERVING THE PROPER COMBINATIONS OF MEATS AND VEGETABLES Beside the hygienic combinations of vegetables with meats, there is an aesthetic side, of equal importance. While mutton and potatoes are not, perhaps, an unwise combination, they certainly are not an attractive one. In the eternal fitness of things, we fall into conventional ways which frequently are more or less correct. From observations of what other people do, always copying those in advance of ourselves, we oft-times live better than we know. A well cooked and well served dinner implies not only a thorough knowledge of cookery, but also of housewifery and the duties of a hostess. The real artist puts both heart and mind into every dish. It blends with the seasons, it is suited to the occasion, and harmonizes with the general manner of living. Simple foods well served are always attractive and elegant. A dish of roasted beef, simple and plain, becomes elegant when well cooked, neatly arranged and garnished on a pretty platter, and served with the appropriate vegetables. Wise combinations please first the eye, then the palate, then the stomach. Indulgence, however, often leads to overfeeding, and this to a lack of thought regarding the quality as well as the quantity of food ingested. For many years, greens such as parsley, chervil, cress, lettuce and celery, have been the accepted decorations for meat and game platters, but the ugly and conventional ring of greens around every meat dish has been entirely abolished for the more dainty colorings. A dish of braised birds is no longer found in a wreath of cress, but is daintily garnished with tiny almond croquettes, piled cannon-ball fashion at the sides or ends, with here and there a dainty bread patty holding a teaspoonful of jelly, and with handsome sprigs of parsley at the head of each bird. Different shades of brown with the green are exceedingly beautiful. Avoid combina-tions of bright colors, save with few exceptions. Potato salad garnished with chopped red beets, or lobster cutlets garnished with the brilliant claws of the lobster, are natural and attractive. SOUPS Pass bread or bread sticks with all clear soups. Delicate crackers with oysters, clam or lobster soups. Grated Parmesan with macaroni soup. Celery, radishes or olives with all meat soups. Small croutons with puree of tomato, peas, lentils or beans . Large croutons with bouillabaisse or chowders. Sea bis-cuits or hard water crackers are usually preferred with fish chowders. RAW SHELL-FISH. Serve oysters and clams very cold on their own deep under shells, pressed down into a plate of cracked ice; in the centre of each plate put half a lemon. Pass horseradish and tobasco sauce, and long oyster crackers, or brown bread and butter. With broiled oysters, pass toast and brown sauce. With fried oysters, cabbage salad with French dressing. With boiled lobsters, serve lettuce or a mixed French salad with French dressing. With deviled crabs, sauce tartare and bread. With lobster farci, sauce tartare and bread. With broiled lobster, French rolls and lettuce salad. FISH With planked fish, potato puff and cucumbers with French dressing. With broiled fish, creamed potatoes and cucumbers with French dressing. With baked fish, fried potato balls and cucumbers with French dressing. With boiled fish, sauce Hollandaise, boiled potato balls with parsley sauce, and cucumbers with French dressing. With small fish fried, sauce tartare and light crisp bread. With fish croquettes and cutlets for luncheon or supper, warm crisp rolls and potato roses . With fried halibut steaks for lunch, cucumbers with French dressing, graham bread and coffee. With creamed or deviled fish, cucumber sauce and crisp bread. With salt cod, boiled potatoes, parsnips, and sour milk biscuit, or brown bread. With creamed cod for lunch or supper, serve plain boiled potatoes. With salt mackerel, fried mush or corn bread. With fish timbales with cream, lobster, shrimp or oyster, crab sauce and a garnish of tiny potato balls. Sweets should not be served with or after a fish dinner, supper or luncheon. ENTREES Patties are served alone. Timbales in general, with cream sauce and peas, mush-rooms, or truffles, pass crisp bread. Croquettes with peas. Boudins with peas and a delicate sauce. Almost all entrees are served with an appropriate sauce and crisp bread. ROASTS Serve with the meat course one starchy vegetable and one green or succulent vegetable. When the dinner salad is served with the meat course, let it take the place of the succulent or green vegetable. BEEF Do not serve, at a private table, two starchy vegetables with the same course; nor the same one at two courses at the same meal. For instance, do not serve sweet and white potatoes together; serve one or the other, and do not serve potatoes with the meat if they have been served with the fish. Serve with baked or roasted ribs of beef a choice of the following: STARCHY Mashed browned potatoes Baked sweet potatoes Browned sweet potatoes Baked squash Hominy Yorkshire pudding Corn meal dumplings SUCCULENT OR GREEN String beans New beets New lima beans Green corn Scalloped or baked tomatoes Egg plant stuffed with cucumber Parsnips Kale Ladies' cabbage Asparagus With a sirloin roast: STARCHY Stuffed white or sweet potatoes Hominy croquettes Baked squash Yorkshire pudding Panned baked squash Panned baked sweet potato SUCCULENT OR GREEN Young lima beans Young haricots Green corn Plain panned or baked tomatoes Spinach Savoy Young carrots Brussels sprouts Asparagus With a baked fillet of beef, always mushroom sauce and sweet or white potatoes croquettes, and peas. With broiled fillet, sauce Hollandaise and French salad, or cold asparagus. With broiled sirloin steak for dinner, stuffed potatoes, sweet or white, or potato croquettes, and peas, string beans, asparagus, mushrooms or baked tomatoes. With sirloin for supper or lunch, French fried potatoes, hashed browned potato es, or creamed hashed potatoes, and plain celery or lettuce with French dressing. With a rolled steak, tomato sauce, baked sweet potatoes or white potatoes, and stewed turnips, or carrots. With a pot roast and boiled beef, serve plain boiled potatoes, plain boiled turnips or baked squash, and any of the various forms of cabbage. With boiled corned beef, serve cabbage, kale, dandelions or turnips, greens, and plain boiled potatoes. With brown stew, serve tomatoes o r baked tomatoes, and dumplings. With beef a la mode, a macedoine of vegetables with brown sauce. With plain boiled beef, boiled potatoes and string beans or browned parsnips. With Hamburg steaks, brown or tomato sauce, or stewed mushrooms or sweet chillies. With fresh boiled beef tongue, serve stewed raisins, car-rots and boiled rice. With hot salt boiled tongue, serve potato salad and rye or black bread. With stuffed heart, serve potatoes, and beans, carrots, or parsnips. With creamed chipped beef, corn bread or mush bread. VEAL With a fricandeau, a macedoine with brown sauce. With cutlets, tomato, sorrel, or brown sauce and rice balls. With roasted loin of veal, boiled rice and spinach, cauli-flower or Brussels sprouts. With stewed veal, dumplings and baked tomatoes. With veal loaf for supper or luncheon, celery, apple or tomato salad with mayonnaise dressing. With calves ' hearts baked, serve boulettes of potatoes, peas or asparagus tips. With braised calves ' liver, a macedoine and brown sauce. Garnish the dish with rolled broiled bacon. With sweetbreads, baked, brown sauce and peas; stewed, mushrooms and cream sauce; glaced mushrooms and peas; broiled for lunch, peas and rolls. MUTTON With boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, boiled rice and stewed turnips. With baked or roasted leg, brown sauce, rice croquettes, stewed white or Swedish turnips or Brussels sprouts. With braised leg, brown sauce with carrots and turnips on the dish. Pass with it plain boiled rice. With a saddle of mutton, plain baked macaroni without cheese; French peas or asparagus tips. With shoulder, serve boiled rice and stewed turnips. With the shoulder stuffed with nuts, serve plain boiled hominy grits and parsnip fritters. With an Irish stew, serve dumplings and onions. With a roasted loin, serve rice croquettes and tomatoes. With chops broiled, creamed potatoes and peas. With breaded chops, tomato sauce and potato au gratin. With spring lamb, mint sauce, boiled rice or new potatoes, peas or asparagus. PORK With hot boiled ham, potatoes, apple sauce and some of the cabbage family. With baked ham, champagne or cider sauce, sweet potatoes Southern fashion, or pan-baked squash and Brussels sprouts or spinach. With broiled ham for dinner, browned mashed potatoes, cold slaw, and pan-baked apples. With roasted fresh pork, apple sauce, potatoes or baked pumpkin, cold slaw, kale or ladies' cabbage. With young pig, apple sauce, hominy croquettes, pan-baked sweet potatoes or squash, young lima bean s and cold slaw, or kohl rabi. With fat salt pork boiled, beans, and boiled cabbage, and apple sauce. POULTRY Serve with turkey, rice either plain, boiled or in croquettes, or sweet potato or chestnut croquettes, and boiled onions, or stewed celery and cranberry sauce. With chicken, chestnuts boiled or made into croquettes, rice or sweet potatoes, mashed, and creamed or baked onions, or stewed celery and grape or crab-apple jelly. With guinea fowl, serve rolls of crisp broiled bacon, hominy and stewed celery. Pass currant jelly. With capon, chestnut croquettes, boiled rice, pan-baked sweet potatoes, and peas, celery or Brussels sprouts. Pass cranberry or guava jelly. With boiled chicken, rice, baked onions and egg sauce. With fricassee of chicken, dumplings or boiled rice, and baked onions. With panned chicken, brown sauce, baked dumplings, and corn fritters, or baked sweet potatoes and corn pudding, or plain boiled rice and baked tomatoes. With broiled chicken, hominy bread, cream sauce and peas; pass guava jelly; or waffles and cream sauce. With hot boned chicken, chestnuts and sauce supreme. Stuff tame duck with walnut, potato or rice stuffing. Serve with it brown sauce and browned turnips or parsnips, or salsify fritters. If the duck is roasted unstufted, serve macaroni, browned sweet potatoes or hominy croquettes and stewed celery, Brussels sprouts or stuffed tomatoes. Pass black or red currant or sour grape jelly. With goose, serve potato or hominy croquettes and sour-kraut, and carefully boiled cabbage, or stewed turnips. Pass apple sauce or barberry jelly. With Belgian hare, roasted, serve hominy or rice, and stewed celery, or Brussels sprouts. Pass Japanese quince or crab-apple jelly. With panned hare, boiled rice, brown sauce and celery with French dressing. With fricassee of hare, dumplings, chestnuts, or baked squash, and celery with French dressing. With rabbit, sweet potatoes and parsnips, or baked squash and stewed turnips, and currant jelly. GAME With broiled partridges or other small birds on toast, lettuce salad with French dressing. With wild duck, for meat course at dinner, cranberry sauce, macaroni and baked onions, or black currant jelly, macaroni and Brussels sprouts; or baked or browned sweet potatoes, and let-tuce with French dressing. When served as a game course a French salad only. With venison steak, serve red or black currant jelly, French fried sweet potatoes, and celery with French dressing. With roasted haunch, baked or browned sweet potatoes, stewed celery and currant jelly. With woodcock, serve spaghetti and lettuce with French dressing. With partridges, quail and other similar birds on toast or squares of fried hominy or mush, chicory or lettuce with French dressing. Broiled or roasted prairie hens or pheasants are served with bread, and horseradish sauce, French fried sweet potatoes and celery or lettuce with French dressing. Small birds, as reed and rail, are served on toast or in cases of onions or sweet potatoes. Serve squabs with peas or asparagus tips. Pigeons with tiny almond balls, rolls of crisp bacon and celery. COLD MEATS With collard beef, cold, serve salad with French dressing. With cold roasted beef, serve cream horseradish sauce, aspic jelly, chicory with French dressing. With cold mutton, serve sliced tomatoes with French dressing. With cold lamb, lettuce and chopped mint with French dressing. With veal, serve mayonnaise of celery. With cold chicken, mayonnaise of celery on lettuce leaves. With cold turkey, serve tomato aspic, mayonnaise of celery. With cold duck, serve turnips in jelly with mayonnaise dressing. With cold ham, cabbage salad with French dressing. With cold pork, apple sauce and cold slaw. EGGS The egg of the domestic fowl, the one in common use, and the only one to be considered here, is a typical or perfect food; that is, it contains all the elements of the blood and is capable of supporting perfectly the young chick in its development. It is not, however, a typical or perfect food for the human adult, and when eaten by such is placed among the nitrogenous foods, and served with such fatty materials as breakfast bacon, with oil in salad dressings, or with white bread and butter. In arranging bills of fare, perfect dietaries, it is well to com-pare the analyses of egg, meat and milk. Study carefully the quantity of nitrogen, carbon, and also the amount of mineral matter in each. Bauer calls especial attention to the mineral matter of eggs, milk and flesh. The latter is rich in potassium, phosphoric and sulphuric acids, but contains little sodium, calcium or chlorine, while milk is rich in calcium and chlorine, and eggs in iron, sodium, and phosphoric acid. Keep before you these analyses, and count up for yourself the proportion of each ingredient before arranging the bills of fare. To make a perfect diet, mix with these, carbonaceous foods and such vegetables as go to make up the loss of certain elements and mineral matter in them. Ten eggs of medium size weigh a pound. Eggs, being nitro-genous, are muscle building foods, and are principally digested in the stomach. They are easily digested raw; not difficult of digestion when simply cooked. Hard boiled eggs, however, are to be rejected by persons with weak digestion. According to Yeo the following analysis is correct:   White of Egg Yolk Water............. 84.8 51.5 Albuminates.......... 12.0 15.0 Fats.............. 2.0 30.0 Mineral matter......... 1.2 1.4 Pigment extractives...... ? 2.1 It will be noticed that the yolk and white differ in composi-tion. The yolk contains less water, a small amount of sulphur, fatty matter and proteid materials known as globulin, while the white of the egg is chiefly a solution of albumin. In feeding children it is frequently found that the yolk of hard boiled egg will agree better than the whole of soft boiled egg. The beaten white of egg is used frequently in place of bak-ing-powder or yeast as a leavening agent; it does not act chemically upon the materials with which it is mixed; the membrane being tough, has the power of holding the air beaten into it; it is then mixed with a batter, and at once cooked. In this way the air cells are fixed by the heat, which gives the light appearance, as in sponge cake or soufflées. Do not jar the stove while these light dishes are cooking, or the cells will break. To ascertain the freshness of an egg without breaking it, fold your hand around and hold the egg between the sun or bright light and yourself; look through it. If the yolk appears round and the white clear it is fresh; or you may drop it into a bucket of water; if perfectly fresh it will sink and fall on its side. If it topples around in the water, standing on its end, it is fairly fresh. If it floats beware of it. The shell of a fresh egg looks dull and porous, that of an old egg thin and shiny. When eggs are kept any length of time there is a loss of water by evaporation through the pores of the cells. This will cause the egg to rattle in the shell. An egg that rattles may be perfectly good. It must be tested in some other way before being condemned. TO PRESERVE EGGS To preserve eggs it is only necessary to close the pores of the shell. This may be done by clipping them in melted suet, or packing them in salt, the small ends downward, using a goodly quantity of salt between each layer of eggs. Or they may be packed in brine; salt, however, is to be preferred. Eggs may also be kept in lime water, packing them carefully, small ends down, using sufficient water to thoroughly cover. This not only protects them from the air, but acts as a germicide. Egs should be packed not later than the middle of May nor earlier than the first of April. Eggs may be placed in cold storage and kept at an even temperature of 400 Fahr.; when taken from this temperature they must be used at once. They will not keep in a warm temperature in good condition twenty-four hours. Eggs may also be evaporated, and kept in glass bottles or jars. Separate the whites and yolks, spread a few at a time on a clean stoneware or china platter and slowly evaporate or dry in a very cool oven. When the mixture is fine and perfectly dry it is ready to put away. This powder is capable of taking up the same amount of water that has been evaporated from it, and may then be used the same as fresh eggs. SHIRRED EGGS Cover the bottom of individual dishes with fresh bread crumbs, drop into each dish one fresh egg. Cover the top with crumbs, stand the dishes in a pan of hot water, and cook in the oven until set, like a poached egg. Put a tiny bit of butter and a dusting of salt and pepper over each, and send at once to the table. EGGS ON A PLATE Rub the bottom of a stoneware platter with butter, dust lightly with salt and pepper. Then break over the top of the dish six fresh eggs; sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper; put bits of butter the size of a hazel nut between each egg, and stand the dish over a basin of hot water. Cook in the oven about five minutes or until the eggs are set. If you have a gas stove run them under the flame for just a moment to brown the surface. EGG TIMBALES Butter small dariole or timbale molds and sprinkle them thickly over the bottom and sides with chopped tongue and finely chopped mushrooms. Break into each mold one or two fresh eggs; put a little piece of butter on the top of each, stand the molds in a baking pan half filled with boiling water. Cover the tops with oiled paper, and cook in the oven until the eggs are set. Take them out, loosen the sides with a knife, turn each mold out on a round of nicely toasted bread; arrange these on a heated platter, and pour around tomato or cream sauce. Garnish the dish with nicely seasoned green peas. Serve as second course at lunch or dinner. CURRIED EGGS Peel and cut into very thin slices three large onions. Put them with two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan; stand this in a pan of hot water and cook until the onions are a soft golden yellow. Now add a teaspoonful of curry powder, one clove of garlic mashed, one-fourth teaspoonful of ground ginger, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of flour. Mix thoroughly and add a half pint of stock or water. Stir until boiling and stand the sauce over hot water while you pre-pare the eggs. hardboil six eggs; cut them into thin slices crosswise; arrange them around a mound of rice on a hot plat-ter, drain over the curry sauce, and send at once to the table. This dish is made still more attractive by garnishing the edge with carefully cooked sweet peppers. EGGS STEAMED IN THE SHELL Eggs put into hot water, the water kept away from the fire, are much better than when they are boiled carefully even two minutes. The greater the number of eggs, the greater the amount of water. To cook four eggs, put them into a kettle, pour over two quarts of boiling water; cover the kettle, allow them to stand ten minutes. Drain off this water, put the eggs into a large bowl or dish, cover again with boiling water and send to the table. The white will be coagulated, but soft and creamy, and the yolk perfectly cooked. If you should add six eggs to this volume of water, allow them to stand fifteen min-utes. A single egg may be dropped into a quart of boiling water, the kettle covered and in eight minutes it will be ready to serve. Steamed Egg Page 250 Eggs Brouilli Page 254 Soft Boiled in Egg Cup Page 251 Eggs in Tomato Sauce Page 252 Shirred Eggs Page 249 Birds' Nest Page 257 An illustration of Different Kinds of Eggs. SOFT BOILED EGGS This term is usually applied to eggs boiled for two minutes The whites, however, are a little tough near the shell. Steamed eggs are to be preferred. POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS Select an ordinary saute or shallow frying pan; partly fill it with boiling water. Select perfectly fresh eggs. The white is held in a membrane, which seems to lose its tenacity after the egg is three days old; so to poach an egg perfectly it must be fresh. Take the desired number of eggs and a saucer to the stove; break an egg into the saucer, slide it quickly into the boiling water, pull the pan to the side of the stove where the water cannot possibly boil. Continue dropping in the eggs until you have the pan full. Now with a spoon, baste the water over the yolk so that it is entirely covered with a little thin veil of white. Lift each with an egg slice or skimmer; trim off the ragged edges, making the dropped egg an oblong shape, with the yolk in the centre. Slide it on a piece of buttered toast, and send at once to the table. The toast should be made quickly, the crust or edge rolled in boiling water at the very last moment. TO hardBOIL AN EGG It becomes necessary frequently to hardboil eggs for garnish-ing certain made dishes. Put the eggs into warm water; bring the water to about 2000 Fahr. and keep it there for thirty min-utes. Eggs cooked in this way will be hard,the yolks mealy and dry, not tough, the whites solid, yet tender. Throw them at once into cold water and remove the shells. Eggs allowed to cool in the water in which they were boiled are dark and yellow. EGGS COOKED AT TABLE Many persons prefer to have the eggs cooked at table in the ordinary egg cooker, as it seems almost impossible to have urn- form results when the eggs are cooked in the kitchen. Exact results can never be expected when conditions are constantly varying. To-day the water is actually boiling. To-morrow it is nearly boiling. Perhaps the next day it is only 1800 Fahr., and still the cook proceeds in precisely the same way each time. One day the eggs are raw; another day, hard; another day, medium. An egg cooker removes this difficulty, and enables one to thoroughly control the conditions, and have uniform results. Fill the under portion of the cooker up to the "mark" with boiling water. Fill the small side of the lamp with alcohol. Put in six eggs; cover, light the alcohol, and do not uncover the vessel until the alcohol has been entirely consumed. Lift the cover and the eggs will be perfectly done. EGGS a la MARTIN 2 tablespoonfuls of Parmesan or 4 tablespoonfuls of common cheese 1/2 pint of cream sauce 6 eggs Put two tablespoonfuls of cream sauce in the bottom of indi-vidual cups or ramekin dishes. Drop into each on top of the cream sauce, one raw egg; sprinkle with the grated cheese, cover with the remaining cream sauce. Stand the dishes in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven five minutes. The cream sauce acts as a non-conductor, and if the oven is not very hot, bake them eight minutes. Serve at once in the dishes in which they are cooked. EGGS IN TOMATO SAUCE These are made precisely the same as eggs a la Martin, using plain tomato sauce, and omitting the cheese. Put the tomato sauce in the bottom of the cup; drop in the egg, and cover it with tomato sauce. JAPANESE EGGS 1 cup of rice 1/2 pint of cream sauce 6 eggs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley A suspicion of onion 1 teaspoonful of soy hardboil the eggs. Carefully boil the rice, drain and turn it into the centre of a meat platter, making it into a sort of plateau. Remove the shell from the eggs while they are hot; cut them into halves crosswise, press them down into the rice, pour over the cream sauce to which you have added the onion and soy. Send at once to the table. The dish may be garnished with finely chopped parsley or cress. The eggs may be cut into slices, one overlapping the other all over the top of the rice, and the cream sauce poured over. This dish may be varied by using tomato sauce in the place of cream sauce. The edge of the dish may also be garnished with broiled sardines, or smoked salmon. EGG CROQUETTES 6 eggs 1/2 pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley hardboil the eggs; chop them fine. Rub the butter and flour together, add to the milk; stir over the fire until thick and smooth, add the salt and pepper. Chop the whites of the eggs very, very fine, or put them through a vegetable press; add them to the mixture, turn out to cool. When cold, take two table-spoonfuls of this mixture in the hand, make it into a sort of well; put the yolk in the centre, and fold the white mixture all over. Dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs, making a perfect ball. Fry in hot fat, and serve with cream sauce. DEVILED EGGS 12 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/4 pound of cold boiled tongue or ham A saltspoonful of pepper hardboil the eggs; cool, remove the shells; cut the eggs into halves crosswise. Take out the yolks without breaking the whites. Put them through a sieve, add the chopped meat, salt, pepper and butter melted. Rub and mix thoroughly. Form a ball the same size as the yolks, and pack into the spaces from which they were taken. Put over the other half of the white. Roll in tissue paper that has been fringed at the ends, giving it a twist. These are used for picnics and garden parties. EGGS BROUILLI 4 eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of cream 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper Beat the eggs until well mixed; add the cream and stock. Turn into a saucepan, stand in another of hot water, and stir and beat until thick and jelly-like; add the salt and pepper, and serve on squares of toasted bread. FRENCH OMELET Plain French omelet is perhaps one of the most difficult things to make; that is, it is the most difficult to have well made by the ordinary cook. Failures come from beating the eggs too much, having the butter too hot, and cooking the omelet too long before serving time. In large families, where it becomes necessary to use a dozen eggs, make two six- egg omelets; or, better, make three four- egg omelets. They are much more easily handled. Milk mixed with egg toughens when cooked in butter; hence the use of water. Select an omelet pan that is perfectly smooth. Put into it a teaspoonful of salt, and with a piece of brown paper rub or scour with the salt until the pan Is glossy. Put into it a table-spoonful of butter; stand it on the back part of the stove where it will melt without browning. Break four eggs into a bowl. Give them twelve good, vigorous beats, or just enough to thor-oughly mix the whites and yolks; add four tablespoonfuls of warm water, a dash of pepper, a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Take the salt with the eggs and your spatula to the fire. Draw the pan over the hottest part of the fire. As soon as the butter begins to crackle, turn in the eggs, dust with a half teaspoonful of salt; shake the pan, so that the omelet moves backward and forward. Now with your spatula or limber knife, lift the omelet at the edge, allowing the thin portion to run underneath; and so continue until the omelet is "set." Have ready heated the omelet plate; fold over one-half the omelet, put your spatula across, and turn it out. Garnish with parsley, and send at once to the table. OMELET WITH PEAS Drain, wash, heat and season one can of peas, or one pint of freshly shelled peas cooked, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. Make a plain omelet with six eggs. When "set," put two tablespoonfuls of peas in the centre; fold over one half, turn it on a heated platter. Pour the remaining quantity of the peas around, and send at once to the table. This may be varied by pouring over the peas a half pint of cream sauce. OMELET WITH OYSTERS 25 oysters 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 6 eggs 1/2 cup of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Drain, wash and again drain the oysters; stir them over the fire until the gills curl. Make a half pint of cream sauce from the butter and flour and milk; add the oysters, salt and pepper; stand over hot water while you make a six- egg omelet. Fold over the omelet; turn it on a heated dish, arrange the oysters around the edge of the omelet, pour over cream sauce and send at once to the table. The juice with the cooked oysters should measure a half cup, with the milk you should have a half pint of sauce. OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS This is made precisely the same as omelet with oysters, having the sweetbreads parboiled, picked apart and put into cream sauce. Where only one pair of sweetbreads can be procured and the family is larger than that amount will supply, a six- egg omelet helps you out, and gives variety. OMELET WITH TOMATO I/2 pint of stewed tomatoes I level teaspoonful of salt 6 eggs I saltspoonful of pepper I tablespoonful of butter The tomatoes may be left in sort of bits. Beat the eggs with-out separating until thoroughly mixed; add the salt, pepper and tomato. Put the butter in the omelet pan; when melted, turn in the egg mixture; shake and cook as directed for plain omelet. When "set," fold, turn on a heated platter and send at once to the table. The tomato takes the place of water. SPANISH OMELET I onion I/2 saltspoonful of salt 6 tablespoonfuls of water I/4 pound of bacon Cut the bacon into very thin slices; put it into a frying pan; add a half cup of water; cook until the water evaporates, then fry the bacon carefully. Remove the crackling, add the onion chopped fine. Cook on the back part of the stove for fifteen minutes. Break the eggs into a bowl; beat until mixed; add the water, salt and pepper. Draw the pan with the onions, over the fire; when hot, turn in the egg; shake and lift, draining the soft part underneath until the omelet is "set." Fold once, turn into the centre of a heated platter and serve immediately. OMELETTE SOUFFLE Whites of 6 eggs 6 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar A tablespoonful of lemon juice Yolks of 3 eggs The grated rind of half a lemon This is perhaps one of the most difficult of all dishes to make. In the first place, it must be made at the very last moment, sent from the oven directly to the table. It cannot wait a moment. The eggs must be beaten just to the right point. The oven must be hot, Everything must be in readiness before begin- ning. When all this is taken into consideration, an omelette soufflé is, perhaps, one of the most satisfactory desserts. See that the bowl is perfectly clean. Get your pastry bag and tube ready, if you are going to use one; if not, get out the baking dish. Divide the sugar; put three tablespoonfuls into a small sieve; separate the eggs carefully, putting three yolks into a bowl. Drop the remaining three at once into a cup of cold water for future use. Beat the whites of the eggs until they are very stiff, but not dry or broken; now add the three tablespoonfuls of sugar; beat for fully ten minutes; then add the well beaten yolks of the three eggs, the grated yellow rind of the lemon and last the tablespoonful of lemon juice. Mix carefully and quickly, but thoroughly. Put four or five tablespoonfuls in the bottom of a silver or common platter; put the remaining portion into your pastry bag, at the end of which you have a star tube; press it out in any shape you please. You may make rosettes all over the foundation. Dust quickly with the remaining three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown. This will take from five to eight minutes. Serve immediately. To be perfect, it must be hot but moist under a crisp crust. If baked too long, the moment it is touched, it will fall and become stringy and unpalatable. This may also be baked in paper cases or individual cups; it will then take from four to five minutes. Omelette soufflés are frequently flavored with rum, the rum being mixed with the yolk of the egg. Sometimes they are sprayed with sherry just as they are taken from the oven. They may be garnished with candied cherries, chopped nuts, and made into any form that your fancy suggests, or simply heaped into an ordinary baking dish, dusted with sugar, and baked. BIRDS' NESTS Separate the eggs; beat the whites to a stiff froth; heap into individual baking dishes. Make a nest or well in the centre; drop into this the whole yolk. Stand the dish in a pan of water; cover and run the pan into the oven for about two minutes; dust lightly with salt and pepper. Put a tiny bit of butter in the centre, and send at once to the table. This is one of the most delicate of all the egg dishes. EGG FLIP Separate one egg; beat the white to a stiff froth; add the yolk and beat again. Heap this on a saucer, dust lightly with pow-dered sugar, and sprinkle over a teaspoonful of brandy. The egg being raw, porous and light is very easily digested. MILK Milk is a typical or perfect food. By this, we mean that it contains all the necessary elements to sustain life and build and repair the tissues of the young of the mammalia. The follow-ing table will give the composition of some milks in common use (Leffmann) ;   Human Cows' Goats' Mares' Fat........ 3.3 4.0 4.3 I.I Sugar (lactose) ... 6.8 4.8 4.0 6.7 Proteids...... I.8 3.5 4.6 I.9 Ash........ 0.2 0.7 0.6 0.3 We must call attention in a very emphatic way to this word "food." Milk, being a complete food, is not a beverage, and should not be used as such. Many persons complain that they cannot take milk and forget this fact, taking it with other nitro-genous foods, overpowering their digestion. Milk, however, is not intended as a typical food for the adult. It does not require mastication, and teeth are given us for this purpose. It has been estimated by the chemists of the Agricultural Department at Washington that one quart of milk is equal in nourishment to three-quarters of a pound of beef. We find, however, by experience, that a man can do more work with greater ease on the meat than the milk; he does not become hungry so soon. The protein or nitrogenous compounds of milk are casein and albumin, and for convenience will be referred to hereafter as casein. The carbo-hydrate is lactose or milk sugar, represented by the same symbols as cane sugar, C12H22O11. It is, however, not so sweet, and less liable to fermentation. The fats are called butter fats, and correspond to those found in several vegetable substances. Olive oil, cocoa- nut butter, and the oil of the palm tree contain fats of similar nature. Milk is not easy of digestion unless sipped slowly or masti-cated, as it were. When poured down the throat like a glass of water it enters the stomach in a mass, is coagulated by the ferment, rennin. It is then separated into curds and whey by the muscular action or churning of the stomach. It is finally rolled into a hardball, which is difficult of digestion from its very density. For this reason it is better to give children a piece of hard bread or other food requiring mastication at the same time they are eating the milk. The curd of cows ' milk is much more dense, less friable, than that of human milk. This will explain why cows ' milk upsets the digestion of infants and even of older children. An adult who pours down his throat a glass of cold milk during or at the close of the meal has not yet learned to respect the power of his digestive apparatus. There are two important rules to be remembered in taking milk; one to take it slowly and masticate it, the other to take it cool, not iced, nor should it be boiled. It is a well established fact that milk is an admirable con-veyor of diseased germs. It is a nutrient fluid in which they thrive, hence it is most important that milk should be collected with special care, quickly cooled and kept in conditions of extreme cleanliness. If one is living in a neighborhood where there is an epidemic of contagious diseases, it is always wise to use as little milk as possible, and have that little sterilized. This sterilization should be done in a most careful manner, not in an open vessel, but in bottles fastened with cotton plugs. There is always present in milk a large number of bacteria; most of these are friendly, many aid in the digestion of the milk. Milk boiled in an open vessel and put aside to cool may become more dangerous than raw milk. The floating bacteria in the atmosphere falling into sterilized milk finding no resistance, grow rapidly, making the milk exceedingly dangerous. Buttermilk is the residue after removing the fatty matter from milk by churning. "Separator" milk is the residue after the milk has been subjected to centrifugal action. "Separator" milk is practically without fat, but contains all the other ele-ments of the milk. Skimmed milk is the residue after hand skimming; that is, after the cream has been taken from the top of the milk with an ordinary spoon or tin skimmer. This is not an economical way of removing fat; we lose frequently a fifth of the real amount. "Skimmed" milk contains some fat and all the other natural constituents of milk. COMPOSITION OF SKIMMED MILK.   In 100 Parts Water...................... 90.5 Casein and Albumin................ 3.5 Milk fat..................... 0.4 Milk sugar .................. 4.8 Mineral matter.................. 0.8 The condensed milks, also called "evaporated creams," are milk from which most of the water has been evaporated, and in some cases cane sugar added. These are not to be chosen for infant feeding, unless fresh milk is not to be obtained. In the first place they are dead; are frequently quite deficient in fat, a necessary constituent, and if sweetened, are doubly bad. According to Church, as much as 40 per cent. of cane sugar is frequently used in preservation of canned milk. Butter is the fats of milk separated by churning. It forms an admirable fatty food if taken on bread or other foods not heated. Butter differs from many fats, in that it contains a notable amount of fats derived from acids, volatile at the point of boiling water. Butter, then, is a wholesome fat when fresh and sweet, and becomes the cause of serious intestinal trouble when heated. Avoid foods covered with melted butter, or cooked in butter. FERMENTATION OF MILK The normal fermentations to which milk is subject are of three sorts: First, lactic fermentation, in which the milk becomes sour; second, changes in the albuminoids of the milk, putre-factive changes, and those in which the fats are attacked by butyric fermentation. Ropy milk, a condition frequently met with, is due to a fun-gus making its appearance during the warm, moist weather of August. It is not known to be injurious, but is exceedingly unpleasant. The "red'1 and "blue" milks are caused by bacteria. While there are probably no germs found in c lean milk, that may be classed as harmful, there are germs not classed among the disease producing ones that get into the milk, through care-lessness in milking or from unclean vessels or utensils in which the milk is kept, that produce poisonous compounds known as ptomaines. These frequently occur in stale custard pies, cheeses, ice cream, cream puffs and other mixtures of boiled milk and eggs. In cheese this is called tyro-toxicon, which simply means cheese poison. These ptomaines occur in all forms of cooked animal matter; oysters, fish and lobsters are particularly susceptible. SOURING OF MILK It is supposed that thunder storms have an effect upon the sour-ing of milk. Experiments have proven, however, that such is not the case; electricity has nothing whatever to do with the rapid development of bacteria in the milk. But the conditions of the atmosphere preceding such a storm cause unusually rapid growth of bacteria. Sterilized milk is not affected by either the preceding conditions or the storm itself. To avoid such acci-dents, during the warm weather, cool the milk immediately after it is drawn from the cow, and keep it cold. Milk should be submerged in cold water, stirred until thoroughly cold, and kept cold. This milk is not in the slightest affected by thunder storms. Try the experiment. From the same dairy, cool one-half the milk as soon as it is drawn from the cow, and put in cool water or in the ice-house. Allow the other half to cool gradually, and then put it into a cold place. The milk allowed to cool gradually will sour quickly, especially during the "dog day" weather, even when there is no thunder storm, but just preceding the storm it will thicken at once. It is not the thunder, then, that has brought about the rapid growth of bac-teria, but the extreme heat preceding it. In the winter, souring may be hastened by adding a tablespoonful of thick, sour milk to the fresh milk as soon as it is strained into the pans for standing. DIGESTIBILITY OF MILK Milk is said to be a stomach-digested food. When swallowed rapidly and taken in large quantities, it overpowers the diges-tion and renders the person very uncomfortable. It is not what we eat, but that which we can digest, that is true food. The value of food for nutriment depends as much upon how it is taken as upon its quality. Milk should be eaten, masticated, sipped slowly; then it forms an admirable food for children and invalids. A third barley water will aid in its digestion and make a better food for young children. TO SCALD MILK Put the milk into the upper part of the double boiler; put it into a saucepan and stand it in another of boiling water. As soon as the water in the outside boiler reaches again the boiling point, the milk is sufficiently heated. Milk never boils in a double boiler, but is sufficiently scalded for all practical pur-poses. The cooking or heating of milk makes it somewhat more difficult of digestion. There are exceptions, however, to the rule. The advantage is, that when milk is heated, people will sip it from a spoon; thus it becomes mixed with the saliva, and enters the stomach in a more digestible condition. Many per-sons can take fresh, warm milk with comfort, but could not pos-sibly take it if it was boiled. Scalded milk is always preferable to milk that has been boiled. TO STERILIZE MILK Pour fresh milk into perfectly clean bottles. Stop them with cotton plugs. Stand the milk in a sterilizer or steamer, and steam continuously for an hour and a half. To make sure that the milk is sterile, it may be put aside over night and sterilized for one hour the second day. It frequently occurs that the adult germs are more easily killed than the spores. Those that mature during the night are sure to be killed the next day, and thus the milk becomes dead or sterile. Sterilized milk is cer-tainly unfit for food for infants, and should not be used except in extreme cases of epidemics. If typhoid is in the neighbor- hood, or if you are not quite certain of your milkman, it may be wise to sterilize the milk, but should only be resorted to as a choice of two evils. PASTEURIZED MILK Louis Pasteur, a French chemist of the latter part of the last century, found that almost all dangerous germs were killed at very low temperature; while more rugged natural germs would stand considerable heat. After long, careful and varied experi-ments, he found that milk heated to 165? Fahr. was practically free from all dangerous bacteria, and still retained a certain amount of its own life; hence the term pasteurization, which means heating liquid to I65° Fahr. Put the milk into bottles; stop the bottles with cotton plugs; put them into water at the temperature of I550 Fahr.; increase slowly to I65? Fahr., and keep it there for thirty minutes. Be very careful that the heat does not go above I65? Fahr. This milk will not keep indefinitely, as sterilized milk, but is much better for infant feeding. KOUMYS Pasteurize two quarts of milk. When lukewarm (980 Fahr.), add one-third of a compressed yeast -cake dissolved. Boil together two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two of water; add them to the milk; stir carefully. Put at once into bottles, cork, tying the corks, and stand in a warm place (about 65? Fahr.), over night, or for twelve hours. Then turn the bottles carefully on their sides in a cold place (about 500 Fahr.); let them remain twenty-four hours and it is ready to use. These bottles must he opened with a champagne tap. Small beer bottles with patent corks arc convenient as far as the cork is concerned, but are most inconvenient to open, as koumys is highly charged with carbon dioxid, and the moment the cork is opened, the contents of the bottle will shoot to the ceiling. Koumys is more digestible than milk; by the slight fermentation, the formation of the gas, the casein or curd is broken up and rendered more soluble. It contains a slight percentage of alcohol. LEBAN Put into an aluminum kettle tour quarts of milk; stand it over the fire where it will come slowly to the boiling point, and keep just below the boiling point for thirty minutes. Take from the fire, and when cool (about Ioo? Fahr.), add four tablespoonfuls of thick sour milk. Lift the skin that has formed over the top of the boiled milk at the side; put the spoon down and stir under the skin without breaking or tearing it, except in the place where it is lifted. Cover the kettle, in fact, wrap it in flannel, if possible, and keep it in a warm place (8o? Fahr.), for five or six hours. At the end of that time, you will have a thick milk jelly. This may now be eaten just as it is, or the skin removed, and the whole whipped up with an egg beater. It may also be put into bottles, corked, and kept on the ice. Leban is without gas, and contains but a trace of alcohol. The casein is most thoroughly broken up, making it one of the most easily digested forms of milk. In fact, it aids in the digestion of other food, and is said to be a positive cure for intestinal indigestion. FLAVORED MILK In certain cases of sickness, where it becomes necessary to use milk as a continuous diet, it frequently is necessary to remove the odor or flavor of the milk. This is easily done by pasteur-izing it with raisins, or a stick of cinnamon. If the milk is to be taken warm, the raisins or cinnamon may be put into a double boiler, with the milk, heated and used at once. JUNKET I quart of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar I junket tablet I/2 teaspoonful of flavoring Heat the milk to 100? Fahr.; add the sugar and flavoring, then the junket tablet dissolved in about two tablespoonfuls of water. Mix quickly and turn at once into the serving dish. Stand the dish in a warm place in any part of the kitchen until thoroughly congealed, about twenty minutes. Then stand in a cold place until serving time. In moving this, great care must be taken not to shake or tear the jelly from the side of the dish, or whey will form at once, leaving the curd unsightly and indigestible. This may be served plain, or with cream. Sterilized, condensed, or evaporated milk will not congeal with rennet. They are dead, as it were; rennin acts only with living milk. If the milk, as soon as the junket is added, is placed in the refrigerator, it will not form a jelly. You have reduced it below the point nec-essary for digestion; and this congealing is but the first step toward the digestion of the milk. Junket may be flavored with lemon, coffee, chocolate or caramel. MODIFIED OR HUMANIZED COWS' MILK Cows ' milk, even when diluted or partly modified, frequently disagrees with an infant. The following recipe may be used with good results. Be sure that the milk is of the very best quality, and is perfectly clean; that is, as clean as milk can be. Put two quarts of milk into a sterilized or scalded basin. Stand it in a cool place for two hours; then with a rubber tube, used as a siphon, siphon into another basin the lower or under quart of the milk, leaving the cream or top milk in the first basin. Heat the under milk to Ioo? Fahr. (a little more than blood heat), add to it one junket tablet, dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of warm water. Let it stand for a moment until con-gealed, then break it slightly with a fork and strain it through a cheese cloth. Add this whey to the first, top milk; add two teaspoonfuls of sugar of milk, and a half pint of water. MODIFIED OR HUMANIZED COWS ' MILK, NO. 2 In cases of rickets, where a large amount of muscle and bone making food is indicated, it has been found desirable to add to the infant's food the white of egg. This recipe has been used for many years by myself, and I have found but few cases where it was objectionable. Heat one quart of milk to Ioo? Fahr.; add one junket tablet, dissolved in one tablespoonful of cold water. Stir for a moment. When the milk is congealed and solid break it with a fork. Strain it through two thicknesses of cheese cloth, rejecting all the curd. Put the whey at once on the ice to cool. Add a half ounce of sugar of milk, three ounces of cream, and one ounce of white of egg. The white may be dropped into a fruit jar, a pint of whey added, and the whole shaken together, and then turned into the mass. This is also a valuable food for convalescing invalids. The cream and sugar of milk may be omitted in cases of typhoid. MODIFIED OR HUMANIZED COWS ' MILK, No. 3 For a very young infant, mix one ounce of cream with four ounces of milk, a teaspoonful of lime water, a level teaspoonful of milk sugar, and nine ounces of hot water. Use at each feed-ing one ounce of this mixture for the first week, feeding every two hours from five a. m. to midnight or one o'clock. CREAM TO WHIP CREAM The cream must be at least twenty-four hours old; better, thirty-six, and must be very, very cold. As soon as the cream is taken from the milk, or as soon as it is delivered to your house by the milkman, pack it in cracked ice and let it stand until very cold. The best churn is a small, tin vessel with a dasher made of wire. Turn the cream into this churn, which must be perfectly cold; stir rapidly for about three minutes and the cream will be whipped to the very bottom. The faster the motion, the quicker the cream will be whipped. Without a churn, turn the cream into an ordinary bowl; stand it in a pan of cracked ice or ice water, and beat it with an egg beater or a fork, or wire spoon, until the whole mass is perfectly thick. At first, it is wise to skim off a portion of the froth from the surface and rest it on the sieve. A small syllabub churn may be placed in the cream, and by rapidly manipulating the dasher, the whole mass may be whipped in a short time. It is necessary here to skim off the froth as fast as it forms on the top. The reason why the cream so often "goes to butter " is that it is too warm, too thick or too new. It must be sufficiently thick to hold the air, but not but-tery. DEVONSHIRE CREAM Put four quarts of milk into a basin; stand it aside over night. Next morning stand it on the back part of the stow-where it will come slowly to almost boiling point. Stand it in a cold place; then remove the cream carefully from the surface, and put it at once into a cold place. This may be used just as it is, in the place of butter. BUTTER. BUTTER MAKING Among the ordinary farmers, it has been the fashion for years to make butter from sour cream, the cream taken from the surface of thick, sour milk, put into a stone jar, stirred every day as more cream is added, the churning done but once or twice a week. But it is everywhere recognized to-day that the so-called ripening of cream is simply an increased growth of bacteria. In fact, so much depends upon the number and the special variety of the bacteria, that we now have them separated and for sale, so that the farmer may ripen his cream in a few minutes by adding the proper species. If the cream stands too long, and the place in which it is kept is not thoroughly clean or is contaminated with vegetables, as is the case in many country cellars, the but-ter is bitter, and is not good. The fact is that the cream should not stand more than three days, should be closely covered, stirred each day, and kept in a place free from dangerous con-taminations. In many of the creameries sweet cream is used in preference to sour. The cream is separated from the milk by means of a "separator" and churned at once into butter. Such butter is sweet and delicious, but must be used at once or it will assume a sour or stale taste other than that which would have been imparted to the cream had it been allowed to stand before churning, The noted butter makers churn every day, and take back and use over the butter that has been standing in the open market more than two days. Butter is exceedingly susceptible to flavors, and must be kept in a place free from contamination. In winter at the ordinary farmhouse, where cream is cold, scald the churn; let it stand for a moment, turn out the hot water, and turn in the cream. The heat of the churn will be sufficient to bring the cream to a temperature of 65? Fahr., a good tem-perature for churning. After the butter has been churned, turn the dasher backwards and forwards for a few moments to "col-lect" it. Take it out; stand it for a moment in a very cold place. Do not wash the butter, as in this way it is robbed of elements necessary for its flavor and preservation. Begin now to work it, and work continuously and thoroughly until every particle of buttermilk is drained out. This is best done on a slanting board. You may use a corrugated roller or an ordinary paddle. It is the fashion to add salt, although it is much better unsalted. Allow one tablespoonful to each pound of butter. After this, work it for five minutes; make at once into prints, and stand away in a cold place. To wash soft butter, after it has been thoroughly collected in the churn, draw off the buttermilk and add water at the temperature of 500 Fahr. about one-half the amount of butter-milk withdrawn. Agitate the butter and water for just a moment; withdraw the water, and again cover the butter with water a little colder than the first. Agitate it again; this time the water will be perfectly clear and not milky. The texture of the butter is greatly affected by the temperature of the water. If on a warm day, the butter "comes" soft, the housewife too fre-quently cools it down by pouring over large quantities of ice or cold water, or throwing a large piece of ice into the churn. It is true, the butter quickly hardens under such a change, but is greatly affected by after temperatures. It is better to increase the coolness of the water in the washings, using the milder tem-perature at first. If by any accident the churn has been too warm, so that the butter comes in a soft condition, add a third quantity of water still a little colder than the second. TO COLOR BUTTER To color butter, add while working a few drops of annatto. CHEESE COMPOSITION OF VARIOUS KINDS OF CHEESE (PAYEN)   Roquefort Gruyere Edam NeufchatelFrench Nitrogenous matter .... 26.52 3I.5 29.43 8.00 Fatty matter....... 30.I4 24.0 27.54 40.7I Mineral matter...... 5.07 3.0   0.5I Water.......... 34.55 40.0 36.10 36.58 Non-nitrogenous matter and loss ........ 3.75 I.5 6.93 I5.80 Cheese is the curd of milk separated and pressed. This sepa-ration is brought about by two methods. In the country farmhouse schmierkase, or cottage cheese, is made from sour milk. The milk is allowed to stand until a thick bonny-clabber is formed. It is then slightly heated, which separates the curd from the whey. The curd is then strained out, mixed with but-ter and made into balls or with cream into a soft cheese, schmierkase. Such a cheese is rather more easily digested than the ordinary sweet curd cheeses, common store cheese, made from sweet milk, the curd separated by the action of rennet; then strained and pressed. Such cheese is sweet and palatable, but dense and difficult of digestion; should not be eaten unless in very small quantities, with a dinner salad with French dress-ing, or cooked and mixed with other food. Ripe or old cheese as Camembert, Gorgonzola, Roquefort and Brie, are sweet curd cheeses, put aside until "ripe." The ripening is usually due to bacteria, in the Roquefort to a fungus. These are said to be more easy of digestion than the new sweet cheeses, as Neufchatel or cream cheese, and in small quantities aid in the digestion of other food. The casein of these cheeses is no longer in the same condition as in milk. During the pro-cess of ripening it has undergone decomposition, and new com-pounds are formed. The rich after-dinner cheeses are Roquefort, Camembert, Stilton, Brie, Gorgonzola, Schweitzer and Limburger. The medium rich, with keeping qualities, are Pineapple, Edam and English Dairy. These are also served with the salad course, or with coffee and crackers at the close of dinner. Parmesan, a skimmed milk cheese, with fine keeping qualities, and sap- sago, are grated and served with macaroni and other Italian pastes. CHEESE COOKERY It is not our mission here to deal with the making or keeping of cheese. The various state experimental stations, as well as the Agricultural Department of the Government, have put out from time to time carefully written bulletins upon these subjects. Here we will deal simply with cheese cookery, which is perhaps the most important part of its treatment, as it governs its digest-ibility; consequently its food value. Cheese is a nitrogenous or proteid matter; hence, it is a muscle or tissue building food, and is digested in the stomach. It is concentrated; hence, must be taken in small quantities and diluted, as it were, with car-bonaceous foods, as bread, or rice. Among country people, new cheese is frequently eaten raw. By this we do not mean sour milk cheese, but cheese made from sweet milk and under such circumstances, it is most difficult of digestion. Being dense, even when thoroughly masticated, it is not easily soluble. Ripe or old cheese aids in the digestion of other foods, simply because it is rich in bacteria. It is an old saying that? " Ripe cheese is a crusty old elf, Digesting everything but itself." This, however, is not exactly true, as old or ripe cheese has passed the primary stage of digestion. COTTAGE CHEESE OR SCHMIERKASE Pour four quarts of boiling water into four quarts of thick, sour milk; let it stand for a moment; turn into a drain bag and hang-aside over night. When ready to serve, beat well, season with salt and pepper, add cream and serve as a spoon cheese, or make into CHEESE BALLS To each pint of drained curd, add two ounces of melted but-ter, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Work this until smooth and soft; make into balls the size of a tennis ball. This will take the place of cream or Neufchatel cheese, and may be served with the salad course. PARMESAN BALLS These balls must be used the same day on which they are made, and are passed with the lettuce course at dinner. Put a half pint of the drained curd into a bowl; rub it with the back of a spoon until perfectly smooth; add two tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan, and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a saltspoon-ful of salt, a dash of red pepper, and, if you have it, just a drop of green coloring. Mix well and roll into balls the size of an English walnut. Heap after the fashion of cannon balls, and stand away until very cold. WELSH RAREBIT Like every other cook, my own recipe for Welsh rarebit exceeds all others in quality. There is not a dish in the whole list that has so many methods of making, all more or less alike, but the simple change of seasoning gives different results. To each pound of soft American cheese allow a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, six tablespoonfuls of musty ale or beer, a saltspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a teaspoonful of horseradish, one clove of gar-lic. Chop or grate the cheese. Rub the pan or chafing dish with the garlic. Mix all the seasoning with the cheese. Put the ale or beer into the saucepan; as soon as it is hot and boiling, throw in the cheese and stir constantly and continuously until smooth and creamy. Toward the last, beat rapidly. Turn it on to a very hot platter that has been nicely covered with toasted bread. Serve at once. The yolks of two eggs may be added to the cheese before heating. A HOMELY RAREBIT I pound of cheese A teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce 4 tablespoonfuls of cream Yolks of three eggs I/2 teaspoonful of salt A dash of red pepper Beat the yolks of the eggs and cream together. Add the sea-soning to the cheese. Turn the whole into a saucepan; stand over the fire, stir and beat until smooth and creamy. Serve on toast at once. CHEESE PUDDING Grate or chop a half pound of soft American cheese. Butter four slices of bread. Line a baking dish with a portion of the bread, put over all the cheese, season with a little salt and cay-enne, then cover with bread. Pour over a pint of milk, let stand five minutes, and bake twenty minutes. CHEESE SOUFFLE Grate a quarter of a pound of cheese. Put a quart of stale bread crumbs and a pint of milk over the fire. Stir and cook until smooth. Add the cheese, cook a moment, season with salt and cayenne; take from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs; mix, and stir in the well beaten whites of the eggs. Turn into a baking dish and bake ten minutes in a quick oven. Serve at once for a supper or luncheon dish. CHEESE CROQUETTES, OR BALLS Mix with a half pound of grated cheese one pint of soft bread crumbs, add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and three well beaten eggs. Mix, form into small pyramids, dip in egg and then in bread crumbs and fry. Serve hot with salad course. CHEESE SOUFFLE NO. 2 Grate a quarter of a pound of cheese; put half a pint of milk in a double boiler; add two tablespoonfuls of flour moistened in about four of cold milk, add a little of the hot milk to this, then strain it into the double boiler; stir until thick and smooth. Add half a pint of fresh bread crumbs, the yolks of four eggs, and the cheese; stir over the fire for just a moment; take from the fire and fold in the well beaten whites of four eggs; turn into a baking-dish, or into individual ramekin cups and bake until a golden brown in a moderately quick oven. CHEESE FINGERS Roll out very thin good light paste, cut it into strips half an inch thick and five inches long, cover one-half of these with grated cheese, cover with the other strips, press together and bake until brown and crisp. Serve with salad course. CHEESE STICKS Cut whole wheat bread into strips same as above, and butter each. Rub together a quarter of a pound of common cheese, grated, a tablespoonful of tomato paste or catsup, a teaspoon-ful of Worcestershire sauce. Spread this out on the strips of bread and bake them in a quick oven until crisp, and serve with salad. CHEESE STRAWS Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour, two of bread crumbs and four of cheese. Put them on a dinner plate, make a well in the centre. Put in it the yolks of two eggs, a dash of cayenne, two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Mix and work in, a little at a time, the cheese mixture. The dough must be hardand elastic. Roll out into a thin sheet, and cut into tiny straws, or strips, four inches long and the width of a straw. Lift and place on greased paper, on a baking pan. Dry in the oven until crisp, but do not brown. Make a few rings and dry them also. Serve the straws in the rings like a bundle of faggots. Serve with salad. CHEESE CRACKERS Rub together four tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and two of butter. Spread this over any thin crackers, dust with cayenne and bake a few minutes in a quick oven. Serve with dinner salad. MELTED CHEESE Arrange squares of buttered toast on a silver or stoneware platter, cover thickly with grated cheese, stand the dish on the rack-in a hot oven, and serve as soon as the cheese melts. Slip the hot platter into another for serving. Do not transfer the cheese. A TOMATO RAREBIT Mix with one pound of soft grated cheese a half pint of strained tomato, a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne, and a cup of soft bread crumbs. Rub the saucepan with a clove of garlic, turn in the mixture and stir rapidly until hot and smooth. Serve at once on toast for supper or lunch. This has meat value. CHEESE TOAST Fill a heated platter with squares of nicely toasted bread. Put a half pound of cheese into a saucepan, add a tablespoonful of butter, and begin to beat and cook, adding, a little at a time, a pint of milk that has been thickened with a tablespoonful of cornstarch. When smooth pour over the toast. Serve hot. A nice luncheon dish. CHEESE MILK Cook one sliced onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter over hot water until a golden color, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix; and add one quart of milk. Stir until boiling; add a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, stir until melted, and strain. Serve with croutons or on toast. CHEESE FONDUE Grate one cup of bread crumbs; use two cups of milk, rich and fresh, or it will curdle; a quarter pound of dry old cheese, grated, three eggs, whipped very light, one small tablespoonful of butter, melted, pepper and salt, a pinch of soda dissolved in hot water and stirred into the milk at the last. Soak the crumbs in the milk; beat into these the eggs, add butter, seasoning and lastly the cheese. Butter a baking dish, pour the fondu in it. strew dry bread crumbs on top, and bake in a rather quick oven until delicately browned. Serve immediately, as it soon falls. VEGETABLES The American people, as a class, in their rushing and bustling life, prefer to take their nitrogen from animal products, which are rather more easily digested and assimilated than vegetables. It is a fact, however, that all the elements necessary for the building of the body are found in the vegetable world. Our working animals, " beasts of burden," build and repair large bodies, under heavy labor, on materials from the vegetable kingdom. True, their digestive apparatus is rather different from man's, and is better suited to the dry, concentrated cereals. We do not, however, get from the animal a single element except that which the animal has taken from the vegetable world. His flesh is the result of the digestion of vegetable materials. Flesh is living tissue, the partly digested food, hence, more easily digested by man than vegetables at first hand. Meat is rich in water, containing less nitrogen than peas, beans and lentils, but in a more acceptable form to American and English business men or teachers who spend most of their lives in close, ill-ventilated rooms. There are many sides to the vegetarian question worthy of consideration. Our so-called food specialists are usually meat-eating men. Experiments with vegetable food are limited to a narrow range. I have not yet seen a single list containing nuts, cereals, fruits, nitrogenous, succulent and starchy vegetables as a general diet. The true vegetarian uses all forms of vegetable foods; he does not try to live upon potatoes and so-called green or succulent vegetables. These do not contain nitrogen, and are insufficient to sustain life. Nuts well prepared and mixed with cereals, and' such easily digested foods as rice give sustaining power not attainable by meat. Health and nutrition depend entirely upon the class of vegetables selected. The Japanese, who do in their country the work performed by horses here, are practically vegetarians. It is stated quite dogmatically that vegetables are less completely digested than meats. Such decisions are made after incomplete and short experiments, and cannot be substantiated. Meat carefully cooked is more easily digested than some vegetables; but vegetables are clean and wholesome. Nitrogenous vegetables are slow of digestion; hence, the vegetarian requires but two meals per day; but in those two meals, especially if his diet is well selected, he will receive more nourish-ment than from three meals of meat. Two points have been gained, time spent in eating and money saved. Then, too, he has had much greater variety. The vegetarian is not compelled to eat steaks, chops and roasted beef to be followed by roasts of beef, steaks and chops; but selects from a score of dishes made by blending different vegetables, nuts and fruits. Vegetable foods are not to any great extent digested in the stomach, with the exception of the leguminous seeds, which are rich in proteids. Vegetable foods call forth greater mechanical effort on the part of the stomach than meats. If a person has indigestion, meats are to be preferred. The amount of cellulose or waste in vegetable foods keeps up the peristaltic motion of the intestines and lower bowels; hence, vegetable eaters are very rarely troubled with constipation and torpid livers. Skin diseases are frequently due to a lack of green vegetables. An observer can readily understand, however, why we have grown into a meat-eating nation. A short visit into the house of a neighbor makes this point quite plain. The so-called cook, an uneducated woman who is perhaps a second-rate scullery maid, presides over the kitchen. She does not know the chemical composition of a single article she cooks, nor the effect of heat upon them. She does know how to cook meats; they can be broiled or roasted. These two methods form the limit of her horizon. Broiling intensifies the flavor of a steak, and with a little seasoning of salt and pepper, and a bunch of parsley, makes a palatable and sightly dish. The cook has given it little care and less thought. Not so with vegetables; they owe their flavor to volatile oils which are easily dissipated by careless or rapid cooking, Badly cooked vegetables are tasteless; all the flavor has been cooked out and poured down the drain. Potatoes, a common vegetable, served -in nearly every household once or twice a day, are seldom well cooked, palatable or sightly. Rice is almost unfit for food; in nine cases out of ten it is yellow, not white, heavy and sodden, a mass of wet starch. Few things show the difference between comfortable and slovenly housekeeping more quickly than the dressing of vegetables. Vegetables are divided into four classes: Those rich in nitrogen, muscle and tissue building foods; those containing carbo-hydrates, starch and sugar; fatty vegetables, nuts and olives; and the vegetables containing water and mineral matter. In the first class we have peas, beans and lentils, and the chick pea of the East. Nitrogen is also found in goodly quantities in the cereals and nuts and glutin macaroni. In the second class, carbo-hydrates, we have rice, white bread, potatoes, the ordinary macaroni. Those containing mineral matter and water are the so-called succulent vegetables, as cabbage, carrots, turnips, spinach, cress, lettuce and tomatoes. The nitrogenous principles of vegetables are acted upon in the stomach the same as those of meat; the carbo-hydrates in the mouth and the small intestines; fats are emulsionized by the secretions from the pancreas and gall. There is no difference between meats and vegetables in the place or method of digestion. The effects upon the body, the time consumed, and the mechanical efforts of the body are. no doubt, radically different. Vegetables, as a rule, should be cooked in uncovered vessels, covering does not keep in the flavor. Rapid boiling renders underground vegetables, as parsnips, carrots and turnips, tough. Cook them in water at 2100 Fahr.; this softens the fibre and quickly renders them tender, and at the same time, they retain their flavor and color. Rapid boiling dissipates the flavor and spoils the color. Rice and macaroni should be boiled rapidly, not that the water is hotter, but the motion of rapidly boiling water washes apart and separates the particles. Both contain starch; if allowed to simmer or cooked in a double boiler, they become soft, sticky, water-soaked and soggy. Potatoes must be cooked at the boiling point; this does not mean at a gallop. All vegetables go over the fire in boiling water?this does not mean lukewarm or water that has been boiled, but water that is boiling. To green vegetables add a teaspoonful of salt to each half gallon of water in which they are to be boiled. Underground vegetables, as the roots and tubers of plants, are best cooked in unsalted water. These are rich in woody fibre; the fibre is toughened by the hardened water. For instance, turnips are white, sweet and palatable, dainty and delicious vegetables, if cut into blocks and cooked carefully in unsalted water. Boil the same kind of turnips rapidly in salt water and notice the difference?the first are white and sweet, the second, pink, coarse and unpalatable. It is a well known fact that all vegetables containing casein, as split peas, lentils, old peas and beans, are not softened in hard water. The salts of lime coagulate the casein and render it dense and difficult of digestion. Add a saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda to each half gallon of water in which they are boiled. This will soften the water and make vegetables tender. Do not add soda, however, to green vegetables. Onions, if carefully cooked in salted water, are delicious; they lose their sweetness and aroma when boiled in unsalted water. If green vegetables become wilted from keeping or dryness. put them in clear, cold water; do not under any circumstances add salt to the water; it draws out the juices and hardens the fibre. For example, cucumbers soaked five minutes in salted water are tough, will never regain their crispness, and are poisonous to a delicate stomach. Simple methods of cooking all vegetables are to be preferred. Carefully boiled or baked, and served with delicate sauces they are most attractive. It is said that all vegetables not containing starch are best and more wholesome served raw. The roots, as turnips, carrots and beets, must, however, be grated or scraped. The dense fibre renders them difficult of mastication and digestion. To freshen wilted vegetables, soak them before cooking in clear, cold, unsalted water. For the convenience of persons who are on a restricted diet, the vegetables have been arranged in groups, that their chemical composition may be seen at a glance. BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION OF OUR COMMON VEGETABLES Dicotyledons. Cruciferae, Mustard Family. Water-cress; Horseradish; Cabbage tribe; Turnip; Rutabaga; Mustard, black and white; Peppergrass; Radish. Cappaiudaceae, Caper Family. Capers. Malvaceae, Mallow Family. Okra. Geraniaceae, Geranium Family. Wood Sorrel, Nasturtium, Leguminosae, Pulse Family. Soy Bean; Peanut; Kidney Bean; String Bean; Lima Bean; Black Bean; Pea; Chick Pea; Lentil; St. John's Bread. Cucurbitaceae, Gourd Family. Pumpkin; Squash, summer and winter; Cucumber; Vegetable Marrow. Umrelliferae, Parsley Family. This family contains many of the aromatic seeds. Carrot; Coriander; Sweet Cicely; Fennel; Celery; Celeriac; Caraway; Parsley: Angelica; Parsnip. Valerianaceae, Valerian Family. Corn Salad. Compositae, Composite Family. Jerusalem Artichoke; Globe Artichoke; Cardoon; Chicory; Endive; Salsify; Dandelion; Lettuce; Romaine. Convolvulaceae, Convolvulus Family. Sweet Potato. Solanaceae, Nightshade Family. Tomato; White Potato; Egg Plant; Chilli Pepper, in all its varieties. Labiatae, Mint Family. The leaves of the plants of this family are aromatic. Sweet Basil; Mint; Savory; Marjoram; Thyme; Sage; Stachys. Chenopodiaceae, Goosefoot Family. Spinach; Beet. Phytolaccaceae, Poke -weed Family. Poke or Scoke. Polygonaceae, Buckwheat Family. Dock; Sorrel; Buckwheat. Lauraceae, Laurel Family. (This is not the family to which the mountain and sheep laurel belong.) Sassafras; Bay-leaves. Monocotyledons. Scitamineae, Banana Family. Ginger; Arrowroot; Tous-les-mois; Banana. Dioscoreaceae, Yam Family. Yam. Liliaceae, Lily Family. Asparagus; Onion; Leek; Garlic; Scullion; Chives; Shallots. Palmaceae, Palm Family. Sago ( Dates and Cocoanuts also). Gramineae, Grass Family. Rice; Oats; Wheat; Rye; Barley; Maize; Sorghum; Durra or Kaffir Corn; Millet. Of the many thousands of flowerless plants but few are used as food. In the Orient the young fronds of the common brake are used as a green vegetable, while the rhizomes are used as a source of starch. Some of the sea-weeds have proved valuable in periods of scarcity, while the Irish moss and dulse are used at all times. Many lichens have been used as dyes, but very few as food. Arctic explorers have sometimes been forced to eat various plants of this group. The best known lichen, however, is the Iceland moss. All the mushrooms and truffles belong to the large group of fungi plants void of chlorophyll. A GROUP OF STARCHY VEGETABLES Potatoes Rice Hominy Hominy grits Italian pastes in general, as ver- micelli, macaroni, spaghetti Chestnuts Sweet potato es Yarns Tapioca Sago Cassava Arrowroot Tous-les-mois This group contains all vegetables common to the United States, in which starch is the principal nutrient, and the cereals, chestnuts, and manufactured foods, as macaroni, etc., served as vegetables. Starchy vegetables belonging to the carbo-hydrates are fat formers, and heat and energy producers. They are digested in the mouth and small intestines; unless well masticated in the small intestine only. POTATOES ( Solatium tuberosum , Linnaeus) The portion of the plant used as food constitutes the tuber, an enlarged, or gorged, underground stem?the store-house for nourishment for the young plants. Many varieties, quite dissimilar in composition and general appearance, are grown in different parts of the world. Those grown in South America are of a rich yellow color when cooked, and much more dry and mealy than those grown in the United States. The German potatoes, imported for salads, are small, slightly yellow, dry and sweet. These are sold at ten cents per quart at the German delicatessen in all large , cities. They are much better for salad than the American varieties. Potatoes should be kept for winter use in a cool, dry, dark place. Warmth, light and moisture cause growth and loss of nutrition, while they increase the quantity of solanin, a poisonous substance found in all potatoes. This substance is in greater quantity in very young and old potatoes. Those ripe, or full grown, contain least, but in all cases it is dissipated or driven off in the cooking. Water in which potatoes have been boiled is unsafe for food; it should be thrown away. In making potato soup, par-boil the potatoes for five minutes and throw away the water. The water of the second boiling is usually free from solanin and quite safe. Pare sparingly, as both nourishment and mineral matter are greater near the skin. Observe a cross section of a good full-grown potato; first comes the skin, then the fibro-vascular bundles, a narrow white layer, rich in starch and mineral matter, then the fleshy portion, in the centre of which is a watery core. The fibro-vascular layer contains nearly as much nourishment as the remaining portion of the potato. As the flavor of potatoes is clue to the mineral matter, which is in greater quantity near the skin, they are more tasty when boiled in their jackets. Carefully cooked they constitute a wholesome and easily digested starchy food. The amount of nitrogen is small, and does not belong to the flesh forming proteids. Potatoes cannot be depended upon as a complete food, but should be served with such nitrogenous foods as nuts, peas, beans, lentils, or lean meats. The food value and digestibility, however, depend entirely on the method of cooking. Baked, or boiled, mealy, not heavy, they are rather more easily digested than white bread or hominy; when fried or mashed and patted down with butter, served in a covered dish, they are less digestible. When fried, covered with grease, the primary digestion, which is in the mouth, is lost, as each grain of starch is surrounded by fat. The saliva cannot penetrate the fat in the usual time given to mastication, which leaves the entire digestion to the intestines; the stomach has little or no action on potatoes. COMPOSITION OF Potatoes (Church) Water....................... 75.0 Albuminoids................... 1.2 Extractives, as solanin and organic acids ........ 1.5 Starch.......................18.o Dextrin and pectose................. 2.0 Fat......................... 0.3 Cellulose................ 1.0 Mineral matter.................. 1.0 Very new and very old potatoes are scarcely worth the cooking. A potato sprouts at the expense of the starch, nearest the skin, hence, the potato withers, and the nutrition is lost. Old potatoes should be pared and soaked in cold water at least thirty minutes before cooking. Full grown potatoes do not require soaking. Potatoes belong to the carbo-hydrates, fat and energy producers, and are digested principally in the small intestine. TO BOIL POTATOES Pare the potatoes, remove the eyes, and throw them at once into cold water. Put them into a kettle of boiling un salted water; boil rapidly for ten minutes, and then cook at the boiling point until the potatoes are nearly done; add a cup of cold water, this will cool the surface, allowing the centre to cook a moment longer and making the potato meal y to the very centre. As soon as the water again reaches the boiling point drain the potatoes perfectly dry; dust them with salt and shake the pot lightly over the fire. When they are dry and white, like snow balls, turn them in a hot uncovered dish and send at once to the table. If a "peeling" has not been taken off around the potato, the skin will burst?a well cooked potato is too big for its clothes. Scrape, do not pare new potatoes. BAKED POTATOES Brush the potatoes until the skin is perfectly clean, rinse them in cold water. Place them in a pan or on the grate in a moderately heated oven; bake slowly until tender, about three-quarters of an hour. When done take each potato in a towel or napkin in the hand, press it gently without breaking the skin until it is thoroughly mashed within. Never stick a fork-in a potato to see if it is done; this ruptures the skin, allows the steam to escape, and makes the potato soggy. If the oven is too hot, the skins will become hardened and prevent the evaporation of water; this also makes potatoes heavy, dark and wet. If baked potatoes are mashed according to directions, in the skin, they will keep in good condition, in a warm oven, one hour. To serve, place them on a folded napkin and send to the table, uncovered. STUFFED POTATOES This is one of the best ways of using up cold baked potatoes; Potatoes " left over " may be cut into halves while warm, the centres scooped out, seasoned with salt and pepper, then beaten until light; fill the " shells," and put aside to be browned, at serving time. The well beaten white of an egg may be stirred in, if desired; but as potatoes are served as an accompaniment to meat, this is unnecessary. Serve stuffed potatoes with broiled or panned chicken. DELMONICO POTATOES 4 good-sized cold boiled potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped or grated cheese 1/2 pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the potatoes rather fine. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, and when boiling, add the salt and pepper. Mix with this the potatoes, turn into a baking dish, sprinkle the cheese over the top; press it down in the cream sauce and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, about ten minutes. Serve with chops, or beefsteak. HASHED BROWNED POTATO ES Chop two cold potatoes rather fine; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper and four tablespoonfuls of cream. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saute or omelet pan; melt without browning; when hot put in the potatoes; smooth down, pressing them neatly into shape; cook for a moment over a quick fire, and then push to the back part of the stove where they will cook slowly for ten minutes. Watch carefully that they do not scorch. Then fold over one-half as you would an omelet, pressing them lightly; turn out. on a heated platter, garnish with parsley and send to the table. Serve with beefsteak. Baked Potato Page 285 An illustration of Baked Potato. Stuffed Potatoes Page 286 An illustration of Stuffed Potatoes. POTATO BALLS Pare the potatoes. Press a small vegetable scoop, " face" down, into the potato, and give it a twirl, bringing out a perfect ball; throw these into cold water. When ready to use, put them in boiling water, boil for ten minutes, drain, dust with salt, and turn in a heated dish. Garnish with carefully melted butter and finely chopped parsley, or they may be boiled five minutes, drained, plunged in hot fat until nicely browned. These are served as a garnish or accompaniment to boiled fish. POTATO TIMBALE I pint of mashed potato 3 egg 's 1/4 cup of cream 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of onion juice A grating of nutmeg Beat the eggs without separating until well mixed; add the cream, then the potatoes and all the seasoning; beat until perfectly smooth, and press through a sieve. Line the bottoms of small timbale molds with greased paper; fill them with the potato mixture, stand in a baking-pan of boiling water, and cook in the oven twenty minutes. When done, loosen the sides with a thin knife and turn them out carefully on a heated dish. These are much more delicate than potato croquettes,and one gets rid of frying. The dish may be garnished with nicely cooked peas, and the two served as an accompaniment to spring lamb, or lamb chops. POTATOES a la DUCHESS 1 pint of mashed potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 4 tablespoonfuls of hot milk Add all the ingredients to the potatoes and beat until smooth. Turn the mixture into a pastry bag at the end of which you Have placed a star tube. Press the mixture out in "roses" and brown nicely in a quick oven. Serve as a garnish to broiled or planked fish. Or the mixture may be made into a fancy mound, browned in the oven, and served as an accompaniment to roasted beef, crown roast, or roasted spring lamb. RAGOUT OF POTATO 6 potatoes 6 medium-sized onions or leeks 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare the potatoes, cut them into dice and put them into a saucepan. Peel the onions or leeks, cut them into slices, and add them to the potatoes. Cover them with boiling water and boil ten minutes; drain. Put the butter into a saucepan, add the milk, parsley, salt and pepper; when smoking hot, add the potatoes and onions, cover and cook over hot water for ten minutes. At serving time add a half pint of croutons, and send them at once to the table. A sort of chowder to serve in the place of soup. POTATO SOUFFLE 6 potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 pint of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Whites of four eggs Steam or boil the potatoes in their jackets; when done peel quickly and put them through a vegetable press. Add the butter, milk, salt and pepper; beat over hot water until perfectly smooth; then stir in carefully the well-beaten whites; heap the mixture into a baking-dish; dust with grated Parmesan, and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, about ten minutes. Serve at once as an accompaniment to baked spare-ribs, or beef, or in place of rice with poultry. POTATO CASSEROLE I pint of mashed potatoes I tablespoonful of butter Yolks of four eggs 1/2 cup of cream Add all the ingredients to the potato, and beat thoroughly over the fire until the mixture is hot. Press it in a border-mold, or in an ordinary casserole mold, leaving the hole or well in the centre. Remove the mold, brush the potatoes carefully with white of egg, and brown in a quick oven. Lift carefully to a serving dish, fill the centre with a fricassee of chicken or rabbit, or a carefully made ragout of beef or mutton. A simple, easy way is to make the border on a platter or serving dish, and brown it in the oven before filling. POTATO a la ANNA 6 good-sized potatoes, chopped fine 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water; take from the water, and chop them quickly or they will discolor. Put a layer in the bottom of the baking-dish, then sprinkle with salt, then a layer of potato, another sprinkling of salt until the dish is filled. Melt the butter over hot water, and drain it carefully over the potatoes, leaving the sediment of the butter in the dish. Cover, stand it in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven about three-quarters of an hour. When the potatoes are half done, stir them carefully; remove the cover, also the water pan and finish in a rather quick oven. Dust the top with chopped parsley and onion juice, and send at once to the table. Serve with steak. BROWNED BAKED POTATOES Peel as many potatoes as are needed for the family, put them into a baking-dish; baste each carefully with stock or glaze; use at least half a pint of stock to eight potatoes. Bake in a quick oven basting frequently. While the crust or outside of these potatoes is rather difficult of digestion, the inside is mealy and delicate. POTATOES a la BORDELAISE Select small new potatoes of uniform size; scrape and throw them at once into cold water; put them into boiling water; boil rapidly for ten minutes, drain and dust with salt. While. these are cooking, rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; acid half a pint of stock, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a bay leaf, and, if you have them, half a can of finely chopped mushrooms, or two fresh mushrooms; bring to boiling point, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and the potatoes. Cover and stand on the back part of the stove for ten minutes. This amount of sauce will be sufficient for a pint of potatoes. Serve with pot roast, or boiled beef, or braised mutton. POTATOES a la CREME 4 cold boiled potatoes 2/3 cup of cream 1/4 nutmeg, grated 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Chop the potatoes rather fine, and add to them all the ingredients. Put them into small individual molds, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. Send at once to the table. Serve with chops or broiled chicken. FRIED POTATOES I have not made this heading, approving of fried potatoes, but to say a word against them. There are so many delicious ways in which potatoes may be cooked, and in which they are easily digested, that it seems a pity to destroy their food value by dropping them in hot fat. Cold boiled potatoes are unfit for frying. The starch cells are already ruptured, and if the second cooking is done in hot fat, they become hard,horny, unwholesome and indigestible. If potatoes are to be fried at all, let them be plunged, raw, into hot fat at about 3000 Fahr. Cut into blocks, into quarters, or " shoe strings," or into thin slices as Saratoga chips. They are indigestible in this way, but less so than those boiled and then fried. Potatoes cut into fancy shapes, plunged into hot fat until brown are used as a garnish to broiled steaks, and fish. STEWED POTATOES Cut cold boiled potatoes into dice; to each quart allow 1 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the potatoes and milk into a double boiler, cook for fifteen minutes. Rub the butter and flour together, add a little of the milk, and when smooth, add them to the potatoes. Stir lightly until creamy; add seasoning and serve. A nice supper dish to serve with omelet. STUFFED Potatoes WITH MEAT Pare six good-sized potatoes, cut them into halves and scoop out the centres, leaving a wall a half inch in thickness. Throw the potatoes into boiling water, boil for ten minutes and drain. Stand them in a baking-pan. Have ready cold cooked meat finely chopped and nicely seasoned. Fill the potatoes with the meat, dust the tops with bread crumbs, put in the centre a piece of butter the size of a hickory nut, and bake in a moderately quick oven for a half hour. Serve as a supper or luncheon dish. POTATOES STUFFED WITH FISH Prepare the potatoes as in preceding recipe. Pick apart cold cooked fish and to each pint allow a half pint of white or cream sauce. Fill the potatoes, after they have been parboiled, with the fish mixture; dust them thickly with bread crumbs and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. These may take the place of the fish course at lunch, or may be served as a supper dish. POTATO FRITTERS, GERMAN FASHION 4 good-sized potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt Yolks of four eggs 1 tablespoonful of flour 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 8 almonds, blanched, ground or chopped fine Boil and put the potatoes through a vegetable press. Add the butter, salt, sugar, almonds, and the yolks of eggs, beaten. Mix thoroughly and form with the hand into small round cakes. Mix the flour and bread crumbs together, roll the cakes into the mixture and saute in hot oil or suet. Dust with sugar and send to the table. These are used as a sweet entree, or as a luncheon or supper dish. The German potato Pancake is made precisely in the same way, making the mixture into a pancake instead of fritters. POTATO CROQUETTES, ITALIAN STYLE 2 cupfuls of mashed potatoes 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg Yolks of three eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of bologna sausage Chop the sausage very, very fine; gradually add the yolks of the eggs, and rub to a smooth paste. Add all the ingredients to the potatoes and beat over the fire until smooth and hot. When cool, form into balls the size of English walnuts; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve these with calves ' brains or sweetbreads, or as ordinary potato croquettes.?Mr. Basso. POTATO CROQUETTES, STUFFED 2 cupfuls of mashed potato 1 level teaspoonful of salt 10 drops of onion juice 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg 2 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 tablespoonful of parsley Yolks of two eggs Add all the ingredients to the potato, beat over the fire until smooth. Have ready cooked one pint of young, green peas; or heat one can of peas. Season the peas with salt and pepper only. Form the potato mixture into a ball the size of a tennis ball. With your finger scoop out the centre, leaving a space" sufficiently large to hold a tablespoonful of peas. Put in the peas, put a little potato in the hole, again form the ball, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in h'ot fat. Serve with broiled lamb chops at lunch, or as an accompaniment to roasted lamb for dinner. POTATO BALLS FOR FISH SOUP Make croquette mixture the same as in preceding recipe, using half the rule. Make the balls the size of small marbles, roll them in beaten egg, lift one at a time and drop into hot fat. Shake the pan until they are a golden brown; drain on brown paper, and put them at once in the soup tureen. Add a table-spoonful of Parmesan to the mixture when the balls are to be served with consomme. RICE (Oryza sativa, Linn.) Rice belongs to the great grass order, the group of cereals. It is exceedingly rich in starch, and contains a small amount of proteid, fat, and mineral matter. It is said, however, that varieties of the East Indian rice contain more nitrogenous constituents than the rice grown in America. In boiling, rice parts with a goodly quantity of both starch and mineral matter, hence, the necessity of steaming it in small quantities of water, East Indian fashion, or saving the water in which it is boiled for soups. Rice is highly valuable as a starchy food, containing four times as much nourishment as potatoes, and requires only one hour for perfect digestion. It is readily absorbed and leaves little or no waste in the intestines. From both a money and nutritive standpoint it is the most desirable starchy food to serve with nitrogenous materials, as meats, eggs and milk. It forms the staple food for three-fourths of the world's inhabitants. COMPOSITION OF DRY RICE (Church). Water....................... 14.6 Albuminoids, etc.............. 7.5 Starch, etc................... 76.0 Fat........................ 0.5 Cellulose...................... 0.9 Mineral matter................. 0.5 COMPOSITION OF BOILED RICE(Hutchinson). Water....................... 52.7 Proteid....................... 5.0 Fat........................ 0.1 Carbo-hydrates................ 41.9 Mineral matter................. 0.3 Rice is a carbo-hydrate, a fat forming and an energy producing food, and digested principally in the small intestine. TO BOIL RICE Rice served as a vegetable should be simply and quickly cooked in un salted water. Wash a half pint of good rice through several cold waters. Have ready a large kettle partly filled with rapidly boiling water. Sprinkle in the rice slowly so as not to stop the boiling. Boil rapidly in an uncovered vessel for thirty minutes. By this time a portion of the water will have been absorbed. Drain the rice in a colander, pour through it quickly a quart of cold water, stand the colander in a plate, and then at the oven door where the heat will pass through the rice; now and then toss it with a four-tined wooden fork from the side of the colander to the middle and back again, being very careful not to break the grains. Turn it at once into a shallow dish and send to the table. Rice is well cooked when each grain has swollen four times its original size, no two are sticking together, and is as white as snow. Serve plain boiled rice with mutton or lamb and poultry of all kinds. In most foreign countries, it is also served with veal. BOILED RICE, EAST INDIA FASHION Wash a half pint of rice through several cold waters; drain, and allow it to stand for two hours. Put over the fire a quart of water in a good-sized kettle. When the water is boiling rapidly, sprinkle in the rice and continue the rapid cooking, tossing the rice with a wooden fork almost constantly for ten minutes. Then push the kettle to the back of the stove where it will steam without danger of scorching; toss every few minutes. The water will be absorbed quickly, but the rice will continue to steam until cooked and dry. Do not cover the kettle or the rice will be heavy. The very moment that it is done, turn it in a heated dish and send to the table. This method requires very much more care and knowledge than the preceding one. Under no circumstances can you cook rice to serve as a vegetable in a double boiler; it may, however, be steamed in a " cooker." Materials cooked in a double boiler are neither steamed nor boiled. Patna rice requires but twenty minutes' cooking. American or Carolina rice from twenty-five to thirty minutes. CORN ( Zea Mays ) HOMINY Of this we have two sorts, one almost the entire grain with the hull taken off, the other the grain ground after the hull has been removed; the latter is known as hominy grits. This is frequently served as a breakfast food, but may be served as a vegetable in place of potatoes or rice at dinner or supper. It is more easily digested boiled in water than milk. Both kinds of hominy should be soaked in cold water over night, then cooked slowly for a long while. According to Payne the following is the correct analysis of these dried materials: Nitrogenous matter................. 12.50 Starch....................... 67.55 Dextrin...................... 4.00 Fatty matter.................... 8.80 Cellulose..................... 5.90 Mineral matter................... 1.25 LARGE HOMINY One pint of dry hominy will measure one quart after soaking. Wash the hominy, cover it with cold water, soak over night; next morning put it over a slow fire, and as fast as the water is absorbed add fresh boiling water. Cook slowly for at least four hours, better five. Allow to each pint of the dry material one teaspoonful of salt added after the hominy is tender. When done it should be free from water; that is, it should have absorbed all the water. Add to it a palatable seasoning of butter and milk, and send at once to the table. TO BOIL GRITS Wash a half pint of grits through several cold waters; add one quart of cold water and soak over night, or for several hours. Then bring slowly to boiling point, and cook in a double boiler for at least one hour, better two. To serve as a vegetable add a teaspoonful of salt, four table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and a saltspoonful of pepper. GRITS BLOCKS Cut cold boiled hominy grits into blocks. Dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve with brown fricassee of chicken, rabbit and hare or game. GRITS SLICES Mold well cooked hominy in a square bread pan. When solid turn out, cut into slices a half inch thick, dip each slice in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve in place of toast under baked or broiled birds. HOMINY CROQUETTES Wash a half pint of hominy through several cold waters; add a quart of milk and cook in a double boiler three hours. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, ten drops of onion juice, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix thoroughly and turn out to cool. When cold form into cylinder-shaped croquettes. Dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve with white or brown fricassee of chicken, or with game. For supper or lunch these may be served with tomato or cheese sauce and will then take the place of meat. TENNESSEE GRITS BREAD Add the yolks of four eggs to a pint of hot cooked grits. Mix and stir in carefully the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into a baking-pan and bake in a quick oven a half hour. Serve immediately, as a breakfast bread in place of cereal, as a supper dish, or for dinner in place of other starchy vegetables, with duck or goose. TARO ( Colotasia antiquorum, Schott, Variety esculenta ) Root of the Elephant Ear The Sandwich Islanders make the famous poi by boiling and baking the taro root, beating it until light and allowing it to ferment for two or three days. Recipes for cooking will be found in the group of Hawaiian dishes. CASSAVA AND TAPIOCA Both of these preparations are very rich in starch, containing from 83 to 85%. They are made from the fleshy roots of two species of the tropical genus Manihot, one being the sweet and the other bitter. The latter, however, is used only in cases of necessity and is then robbed of its poisonous qualities by washing and drying. In manufacture, the root of the sweet variety is washed and scraped, grated and beaten to a pulp. The mass is then subjected to pressure to express the juice, which, when evaporated, gives cassava starch and tapioca. The compressed residue is cassava meal, from which cassava bread is made. Ground tapioca is sold under the name of granulated or instantaneous tapioca. "Rolled tapioca " is simply rolled before the mass of starch is quite dry. The object in grinding or rolling is to give shorter time for cooking. The large tapioca requires both long soaking and careful cooking to be at all palatable or digestible. Pearl tapioca is ground, then moistened and rolled into the shape in which it is sold. Recipes for tapioca will be found under desserts. Cassava Bread is really a cassava cake as the meal is incapable of fermentation with yeast. The meal is moistened with salt and water, then patted into flat cakes, and baked slowly on a griddle. SAGO True sago is a pure starch made from the central part of several varieties of palms. This portion of the tree is ground, washed and strained through fine sieves. The starch is allowed to settle and again washed, dried and ground. In some parts of the East Indies, a starchy meal is made from the Cycas which must not be confounded with true sago. Pearl sago is made by mixing water with the dry starch and granulating by motion, while the mixture is drying. Recipes for the cooking of sago will be found under desserts. ARROWROOT Genuine arrowroot is made from the root stalks of the Maranta Arundinacea, Linn. Arrowroot is the smallest of all starch granules; under the microscope it resembles closely, with the exception of the size, the potato starch. Brazilian arrowroot is frequently adulterated with potato or other inferior starches. Adulterations can be easily detected, however, by microscopic observations. Arrowroot is most easily digested of all starches and cooks at the lowest temperature. In thin gruel, the starch grains rupture at 1800 Fahr. ARROWROOT GRUEL Moisten a teaspoonful of arrowroot in four teaspoonfuls of cold water. Add a half pint of boiling water, bring to boiling point, and pour, while hot, into the well beaten white of one egg. ARROWROOT GRUEL NO. 2 Make according to the preceding recipe, omitting the egg, and add two tablespoonfuls of thick cream that have been whipped to a stiff froth. Sugar may be added if desired. ARROWROOT PORRIDGE Moisten a rounding teaspoonful of arrowroot with four table-spoonfuls of cold milk; add a half pint of hot milk; cook in a double boiler until about the thickness of cream. Take from the fire, add a grating of nutmeg and a lump of cut sugar. TOUS-LES-MOIS This is made from the tuber of Canna edulis, and, like arrowroot, is very easy of digestion, and cooks at about the same temperature. These are the largest of all starch grains, are round, with concentric markings and a central hilum. This starch is not used to any extent in the United States except by the Turks, who make from it a sort of jelly-like, elastic candy, called Turkish Delight. COMMON MILLET Millet is the seed of a plant belonging to the grass family and stands midway between wheat and rice. It is not used in the United States as human food, except by a few Germans and Russians, as a thickening of clear soups. The Sorgho grass or East India millet, called dhoora, is very similar. COMPOSITION (Church) Water....................... 13.0 Albuminoids, etc...................12.9 Fat........................ 3.6 Carbo-hydrates................... 65.4 Cellulose...................... 3.5 Mineral matter................... 1.6 PLAIN BOILED MILLET Wash the millet through several cold waters, throw it into boiling water and boil rapidly for one hour. Dram, and serve with salt, pepper and butter, or it may be added to soup. It will cook in less time, if soaked over night. ITALIAN PASTES MACARONI Italian macaroni has about the same food value as common white bread; it contains both carbonaceous and nitrogenous principles; leaning towards the first is fat, heat and force food. The primary digestion begins in the mouth, the nitrogenous principles are digested in the stomach, the starchy portion finished in the intestines. At dinner the Italian pastes take the place of potatoes or rice; when cooked with cheese and tomatoes, or milk and egg, they make admirable luncheon or supper dishes. Macaroni with cheese forms an almost typical food. It is the bread and meat of the Italian laborer; even at hardwork he finds it a satisfying and perfect diet. A few years ago the best grades were imported, but now many of the domestic articles are superior to those coming from across the water. Until within the past few years, macaroni was prepared only as a luxury for the tables of the very rich. Even now it is sparingly used throughout the country by the American laboring classes. There is no reason, however, considering its price and the ease with which it is prepared, why it should not enter extensively into the food of all our people. It is nutritious, palatable, sightly and much more easily prepared than many of our every-day dishes. It frequently lacks flavor, due, of course, to the careless manner of cooking; and this may be one reason why it is so little used. The thoughtless cook throws it into water that is not hot; simmers it gently until it is soft and pasty; drains it, pours over it a little cream sauce, puts a thick layer of chopped cheese on top, and bakes it in the oven. It comes to the table a mass of heavy paste. The cheese is hardand scorched, and all in all, it is a very uninteresting dish. Sir Henry Thompson tells us that "glutin macaroni, weight for weight, may be regarded not less valuable in the economy than beef or mutton. " Served with cheese it is an admirable substitute for meat. Glutin macaroni has meat value, and may be cooked after these same rules, allowing thirty minutes for the first cooking and at least twenty for the second. Serve macaroni with roasted duck, birds or braised beef. Serve spaghetti alone as a vegetable course, or with braised or roasted beef. PREPARATION No matter what the final preparation of macaroni or spaghetti is to be, the first is always the same. Fill a large kettle partly full of rapidly boiling salted water. Throw in the macaroni, allow it to boil rapidly for thirty minutes, drain, throw it into cold water to blanch for thirty minutes; drain, and it is ready to cook. TO BOIL SPAGHETTI Spaghetti is always served in the long form in which it is purchased. Grasp the given quantity in your hand; put the ends down into boiling water, and as they soften press gently until the whole length is in the water; boil rapidly for twenty minutes. Drain, and blanch in cold water. The small Italian pastes used for soups are usually cooked a few moments in water, then drained and finished in the soup. A half pound will be sufficient to serve six persons. The Italians cook it for twenty minutes in water, then finish the cooking in stock. Most Americans throw away their stock materials and cook the macaroni thirty to forty minutes in water. This is one reason for its tasteless condition. A recipe given for macaroni may be used equally well for spaghetti, except that macaroni is broken, spaghetti cooked and served whole. MACARONI WITH ASPARAGUS Break two ounces of macaroni into four inch pieces; throw them into a kettle of boiling water; boil twenty minutes. Drain and cover with stock. Stand on the back part of the stove where the macaroni will simmer, swell, and soak up the stock, fifteen minutes longer. While this is cooking, wash the asparagus, and cut it into one inch pieces as far as the stalks are tender. Throw them into boiling salted water, and boil carefully for thirty minutes. Drain, season with salt, pepper and butter. Turn the asparagus in the centre of the dish, garnish with the pipes of boiled macaroni, sprinkle over a little Parmesan, and send at once to the table. MACARONI WITH BROWN BUTTER Boil the macaroni as directed; cover it with stock, simmer gently for twenty minutes, or until the macaroni is rather dark and very tender. Drain, and throw it on a heated dish; dust lightly with salt and pepper, and pour over browned butter. MACARONI WITH BROWNED SAUCE 4 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of stock 1 tablespoonful of grated onion - 1 level teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 clove of garlic 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet Boil and blanch the macaroni; cut it into lengths of one inch. Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, mix until smooth, add the stock, stir until boiling, add all the seasoning, then the macaroni, stand over hot water for twenty minutes, and it is ready to serve. The flavor of this may be changed by omitting the tomato catsup, and adding tomato paste and a little Worcestershire sauce. MACARONI WITH CHEESE 4 ounces of macaroni 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 4 ounces of ordinary cheese 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 saltspoonful of red pepper Boil the macaroni as directed and cut it into lengths of three inches. Chop the cheese. Cover the bottom of a baking dish with the boiled macaroni. Put over a few bits of butter and a sprinkling of the chopped cheese, salt and pepper, then another layer of macaroni, and so continue, having the last layer cheese. Put over a few more bits of butter, dust thickly with bread crumbs, and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. CREAMED BAKED MACARONI 4 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 4 ounces of chopped cheese Boil the macaroni twenty minutes, and blanch ten. Put a layer of macaroni in the bottom of a baking dish, then a sprinkling of cheese, a dusting of salt and pepper, and so continue until the ingredients are used. Rub the butter and flour together; add the milk; stir over the fire until boiling. Baste this carefully over the macaroni, aid bake in a moderate oven, thirty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it is baked. MACARONI a la ANGLAISE 1/4 pound of macaroni Yolks of two eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of cream 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 pint of good stock 1 tablespoonful of butter 3 ounces of grated Cheshire cheese Boil the macaroni; drain and blanch; cut into lengths of one inch. Put it into a saucepan with the milk and stock. Cook slowly for twenty minutes, and turn it in a deep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream, add a half cup of the macaroni liquor, cook a moment, being careful not to curdle; pour it over the macaroni, sprinkle with grated cheese, add the butter cut into bits, and brown under the broiling chamber of a gas stove, or near the top of a very hot oven. Do not bake more than ten minutes, or the egg will separate. SPAGHETTI IN CHEESE SHELL After the centre has been scooped from a pineapple or Edam cheese, save the shell for the serving of spaghetti or macaroni. Boil the spaghetti; drain, blanch and drain again. Twist it around the inside of the cheese shell. Make a half pint of cream sauce and pour it carefully over the spaghetti. Stand the shell on a piece of paper in the bottom of a baking-dish and bake in a moderately quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Dish on a napkin, and send at once to the table. If handled carefully the shell may be used again. The cheese shell imparts a delicious flavor to this most sightly dish. SPAGHETTI, ITALIAN FASHION 6 ounces of spaghetti 6 good-sized tomatoes 3 onions 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 pounds of lean beef 1/2 cup of cream or 1/4 pound of butter 1 clove of garlic Cheese Chop the meat very fine; add to it the tomatoes that have been cut into halves and the seeds pressed out. Add the onions, chopped, and a half pint of water, and cook slowly for three hours. Drain and press carefully. Boil and blanch the spaghetti; put it into the strained mixture; add the salt; stand it on the back part of the stove to cook for a half hour. Cut the clove of garlic into halves, mash it in the spoon with which you are stirring the spaghetti; add the cream or butter, heat well and turn on a hot platter. Pass with it grated Parmesan. Beef extract may be used in place of beef. CREAMED MACARONI 4 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of cream sauce Boil and blanch the macaroni as directed; drain; cut into pieces one inch long; add it to the hot cream sauce; stand over hot water for ten minutes, and serve. Cheese may or may not be added. This is an exceedingly nice supper or luncheon dish for children. SCALLOPED MACARONI WITH OYSTERS 1/4 pound of macaroni or spaghetti 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 50 oysters 1/2 cup of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter Bread crumbs Drain and wash the oysters. Boil and blanch the macaroni; cut it into pieces one inch long. Put a layer of this in the bottom of the baking dish, then a layer of oysters, a dusting of salt and pepper, and so continue until the dish is filled, having the last layer macaroni. Sprinkle this with bread crumbs. Put over the top the bits of butter; baste carefully with the milk, and bake in a moderate oven a half hour. Or pour over the whole a well made cream sauce, cover the top with bread crumbs and bake. MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI CROQUETTES 4 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of milk Yolk of one egg 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of grated cheese 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Boil, blanch, drain the macaroni, and chop it fine, or cut it into thin slices. Put the milk over the fire. Rub the butter and flour together, add them to the milk, and when thick and smooth add the yolk of the egg, the seasoning and the cheese. Take from the fire; add the macaroni and parsley; mix and turn out to cool. When cold, form into small pyramids; dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat at a temperature of 360° Fahr. Serve with plain cream or tomato sauce. DEVILED MACARONI 6 ounces of macaroni or spaghetti 1/2 pint of milk 3 hard boiled eggs 1 level saltspoonful of cayenne 1 tablespoonful of onion juice 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 grating of nutmeg 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Boil, blanch, drain and chop the spaghetti or macaroni rather fine. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, and stir until boiling. Press the hard boiled eggs through a sieve, or chop them very fine; add them to the thick sauce, add the pars- ley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and onion juice. Now mix in the macaroni. A sweet red pepper may be chopped fine and added in the place of cayenne. Put in individual shells or ramekin dishes; cover the top with bread crumbs, moistened with melted butter, and run into quick oven to brown. When done, make an indentation with the back of the spoon in the centre of each, put in a teaspoonful of tomato catsup or chilli sauce, and serve at once. SPAGHETTI WITH TOMATO SAUCE Heat boiled and blanched macaroni or spaghetti in tomato sauce, allowing four ounces of macaroni or spaghetti to each pint of sauce. Pass with it Parmesan cheese. Macaroni may be served as a garnish to chicken, mutton, beef or veal. SPAGHETTI à la ROYAL 4 pounds of beef or 1 shin 1 pound of spaghetti 2 cloves of garlic 1 level teaspoonful of salt 12 good-sized tomatoes 1 good-sized onion 2 bay leaves 1/2 cup of thick cream Parmesan This, one of the most extravagant of all macaroni dishes, is used largely by the better classes in Italy. Take the meat from the bone, chop it fine, put the bones in the bottom of the kettle, add the meat and the tomatoes that have been peeled and cut into halves, and one quart of water. Cover the kettle and simmer gently for one hour; watch it carefully to prevent scorching. Now add the onions, the garlic, the bay leaves, and cook thirty minutes longer. Boil the spaghetti fifteen minutes in stock. Strain the tomato stock, which should be about one and a half pints, very rich and thick; add the spaghetti. Stand it over hot water, closely covered, and cook slowly for a half hour. Add the salt, and stir in a half cup of thick cream. Turn at once in a heated dish, and send to the table with Parmesan in a separate dish. Save the meat for curry or hash. Serve at dinner in place of soup, or alone as a course following the soup. MACARONI WITH TOMATO PASTE In almost all the Italian shops one can buy tomato "conserve " in small cans, for ten cents each. A tablespoonful of this conserve will take the place of many times its bulk in tomatoes. It is, in my own house, used constantly during the summer with beef extract for soups, which saves the purchase and keeping of large quantities of meat. For a family of six, boil, blanch and drain four ounces of spaghetti or macaroni; turn it into a saucepan. Add a half teaspoonful of beef extract dissolved in a half pint of water; stand it over a slow part of the fire where it will simmer for twenty minutes. Then add a half teaspoonful of salt; a finely chopped sweet pepper, a tea-spoonful of tomato paste dissolved in two or three tablespoon-fuls of cream or milk. Stand this over hot water, or over the back part of the stove to cook fifteen minutes longer. Pass with it Parmesan in a separate dish. To give variety add a suspicion of curry powder. MACARONI RAREBIT 1/2 pound of soft American cheese 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 dash of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Yolks of three eggs 1/2 cup of cream or milk 2 ounces of macaroni or spaghetti Boil, blanch, drain and cut or chop the macaroni. Beat the yolks of the eggs; add the milk; put them into the saucepan, with the cheese; add the salt, pepper, butter, and macaroni. Stir rapidly over a hot fire or in a chafing dish until the cheese is thoroughly melted. Turn at once into a very hot dish that has been covered with nicely toasted bread, and send to the table. This is one of the nicest of the macaroni dishes. SPANISH MACARONI 1 pound of cold cooked meat, chopped fine 6 ounces of macaroni or spaghetti 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 2 onions 1/2 pint of stock 2 sweet chillies, chopped fine 1 hot chilli 1 teaspoonful of salt Boil, blanch, drain the macaroni, and cut it into lengths of one inch; if spaghetti, leave it whole. Rub the butter and flour together; add the stock; stir until boiling, add the salt. In the bottom of a baking dish put a layer of the chopped meat ? corn beef or tongue is preferable; then a layer of macaroni, a little minced chilli and onion, and so continue until the dish is full. having the last layer macaroni. Pour over the sauce and bake in a quick oven forty minutes. MACARONI TIMBALE 1 pint of cold meat 1/2 cup of soft bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 4 ounces of spaghetti Boil and blanch the macaroni or spaghetti. If macaroni is used, cut it into the thinnest possible slices; if spaghetti, leave it whole. Brush timbale cups with butter, dust thickly with bread crumbs. With spaghetti coil it around, lining the cup to the very top. With macaroni, put little slices against the side of the cup, fitting them neatly together. Mix the bread crumbs, egg, meat and seasoning together. Pack it into the molds; stand them in a pan of boiling water; cover with oiled paper and bake in the oven a half hour. When done, remove them carefully from the molds, so as not to disarrange the macaroni. Place on a heated dish, the bottom of which has been nicely covered with either Bechamel or tomato sauce. If this is carefully made, the molds carefully lined, and well turned out, it forms one of the most sightly of all the entrees. MACARONI IN TOMATO CASES 4 ounces of macaroni 1/2 pint of cream sauce 1 level teaspoonful of salt 8 medium-sized tomatoes 4 ounces of soft American cheese A dash of pepper Boil and blanch the spaghetti or macaroni. If macaroni, cut it into one inch lengths. Leave the spaghetti whole. Cover ' the tomatoes with boiling water and remove the skins. Cut off the stem end and scoop out the central portion. Fill neatly with the macaroni or spaghetti; pour over the cream sauce, cover the top lightly with grated cheese. Stand them in a baking pan, and bake in a moderate oven for a half hour. MACARONI IN THE CHAFING DISH 4 ounces of macaroni or spaghetti 4 olives 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of strained tomato 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Boil the spaghetti or macaroni, cut in one inch pieces and placed in a dish at your left hand. Put the butter and flour in the chafing dish; when mixed, add the strained tomato, the mushrooms chopped fine, the olives stoned and chopped. Light the lamp, and stir the ingredients until boiling hot. Add the macaroni, the salt and pepper. Cover the chafing dish for a moment, stir and serve. Cheese may be added if desired. Use the hot water pan. NOODLES Noodles are pastes of the macaroni class. They can be purchased for ten to fifteen cents a pound, and are mostly used in chicken stock, for noodle soup. They may, however, be cooked and served according to the recipes for spaghetti. HOME-MADE NOODLES Put four tablespoonfuls of flour into an ordinary dinner plate; make a well in the centre, put in an egg well beaten, and mix in carefully the flour. When the dough is extremely hard,knead and work until it becomes soft and free from stickiness. Roll it out in a very thin sheet; place it on a napkin and hang it in the air for about ten minutes until slightly dry;'then roll tightly, cut very thin slices from the end; shake them out and spread on a paper, and dry in the sun, or warm oven. To keep? when perfectly dry, put them in glass jars, fasten, and place in a dry closet. NOODLES WITH COTTAGE CHEESE 1/2 pint of fresh cottage cheese 2 ounces of noodles 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter I pint of stock 1/2 saltspoonful of white pepper Bring stock to a boil, put in the noodles; boil for a moment and then simmer gently for twenty minutes. Melt the butter, slightly browning it; add the salt and pepper to the noodles. When the noodles are tender, drain, put them on a hot platter, sprinkle over the cottage cheese, pour over the melted browned butter, and send at once to the table. Noodles may also be served with tomato or cream sauce. SPANISH SQUARES The rule for noodles 1/2 cup of carefully cooked spinach 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 pint of stock 1/2 cup of cottage cheese 4 good-sized tomatoes or 1/2 pint can of tomatoes After the dough has been rolled into a very thin sheet, cut it in strips all the way across the sheet and one and a half inches wide. Now, cut them into squares. On one corner of each square, put a half teaspoonful of cooked spinach, and a half teaspoonful of cottage cheese; brush the edge with white of egg, turn over the other corner, and press the edges firmly together. When all are made, put them in a saucepan, cover with the boiling stock and simmer gently for a half hour. Put the tomatoes and the butter over the fire to cook. Add, if you like, a little onion or garlic, and the salt and pepper. ' Stew gently until reduced one-half; press through a sieve. When ready to serve, drain the squares; put them on a heated dish; pour over the tomato sauce, and send at once to the table. SWISS NOODLES 1/2 pint of flour 3 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/4 teaspoonful of pepper 4 tablespoonfuls of grated sap sago Beat the eggs without separating; add them gradually to the flour, add the salt and pepper, and mix well. This dough should drop, not pour, from a spoon. Put the mixture in a pastry bag at the end of which you have a small plain tube. Press the dough out in strips, one inch long, into a kettle of boiling salted water. Cook a half hour, drain, dish, pour over the butter, melted, dust with the cheese and serve at once. These are also nice served with cottage cheese. These noodles lose their lightness if allowed to stand too long before serving. A GROUP OF STARCHY VEGETABLES, ALSO CONTAINING SUGAR Sweet Potatoes Squash Yams Pumpkins SWEET POTATO ( Ipomcea Batatas , Lamarck) Sweet potato belongs to the morning-glory family. The edible portion is a swollen side root, not so nutritious or easily digested as the common white potato, and in composition differs from it in containing more sugar, gum, dextrin, pec-tose, and less starch. COMPOSITION (Church) Water.............................. 75.0 Albuminoids, etc................... 1.5 Starch............................. 15.0 Sugar.............................. 1.7 Dextrin, and gum................... 2.2 Pectose............................ 0.9 Fat................................ 0.4 Cellulose.......................... 1.8 Mineral matter..................... 1.5 All varieties of sweet potatoes may be cooked after the same rules. Containing sugar as well as starch, they are easily made pasty or heavy by careless cooking and under such conditions are dense and difficult of digestion. Cooked with fat they are much more objectionable than white potatoes under the same conditions. BOILED SWEET potatoes Wash the potatoes carefully without breaking the skin; rinse, throw them into boiling water, and cook just at the boiling point until you can pierce them to the centre; they must not, however, be soft. Drain off every particle of water, put them into a baking-pan, and stand them in a quick oven to dry. In this way they will be mealy. Sweet potatoes must be peeled after they are cooked. The better way is to take the potato in a towel or napkin and with a dull knife scrape off the skin. Put the potatoes back into the baking-pan as fast as you peel them to keep them hot. BOILED AND BAKED SWEET potatoes After they have been boiled according to the preceding recipe, scrape off the skins, cut them into halves, put them flat side down in a baking pan. Baste them with melted butter, dust thickly with sugar, and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown. BAKED SWEET potatoes, SOUTHERN FASHION Boil sweet potatoes until they are partly done; remove the skins; cut them into slices; put a layer of these slices in the bottom of the baking dish, sprinkle over two tablespoonfuls of sugar, another layer of potatoes, and a sprinkling of sugar. Add a half cup of boiling water; cover the dish and cook in a moderate oven until they are soft and transparent. Serve in the dish in which they were baked. MASHED SWEET potatoes Wash and rinse the potatoes; bake them until they are soft when pressed in the hand. Break the skin and scoop out the potato; put it through a vegetable press or colander. To each half dozen potatoes allow a tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper. Beat until light, holding the pan over hot water or a moderate fire. Turn into an uncovered dish and serve at once. SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES Roll mashed sweet potatoes into cylinder-shaped croquettes. Beat an egg, without separating, with a tablespoonful of water until thoroughly mixed. Dip the croquettes in the egg, roll them in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. BAKED SWEET potatoes Scrub and wash sweet potatoes until perfectly clean, being careful not to break the skin. Put them into a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven until they are soft to the very centre. Try by taking them up in a towel in the hands; you can easily tell by the slightest pressure when they are soft; do not puncture with a fork. Serve on a folded napkin. Left-over sweet potatoes may be made into stuffed sweet potatoes. STUFFED SWEET potatoes Cut baked sweet potatoes into halves, lengthwise; scoop out the centre without breaking the skin and put it through a colander or vegetable press. Add to each pint a level tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper. Beat until thoroughly mixed; add a teaspoonful of onion juice, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of mace. Mix and put the mixture into the skins. Brush the tops with beaten egg and brown in a quick oven. Serve with broiled chicken. FRENCH FRIED SWEET potatoes Peel the sweet potatoes, cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick, lengthwise. Have ready a kettle of hot fat, about 3000° Fahr. Put a few slices at a time in the frying basket, plunge them into the hot fat and cook slowly until perfectly brown; drain on brown paper. Dust with salt and send at once to the table. If perfectly cooked these will be free from grease. Serve as an accompaniment to broiled or baked birds. BROILED SWEET POTATOES Cut peeled raw sweet potatoes into slices a quarter of an inch thick, dip them in melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, broil over a clear fire, for five minutes, turning once. Serve at once with baked or broiled partridges. YAMS Yams look and taste like sweet potatoes and may be cooked after the same rules. They do not, however, belong to the same order of plants. The common yam is Dioscorea Alata, but other species of the same genus are used. The Chinese yam {Dioscorea Batatas) is imported into the United States and used by many in place of our common sweet potatoes. They are exceedingly large, frequently weighing from two to four or six pounds. The so-called yam of the Southern United States is simply a larger variety of the common sweet potato. COMPOSITION (Church) Water ............................... 79.6 Albuminoids, etc. ................... 2.2 Carbo-hydrates ...................... 0.5 Cellulose ........................... 0.9 Mineral matter ...................... 1.5 WINTER SQUASH ( Cucurbita maxima , Duchesne) The recipes given may be used for such varieties as the Hub-bard, Boston Marrow and the Cashaw squash. Like other vegetables in this group, the winter squash is served in place of potatoes or rice; it is not, however, so rich in nourishment, but gives variety to the daily menu. BAKED SQUASH Wash and wipe the squash; saw into halves and then into quarters; remove the seeds. Stand the squash, skin side down, in a baking-pan, bake in a moderately quick oven about one hour or until tender. Dish on a platter, covered with a dainty napkin, and send at once to the table. Serve by scooping out the flesh with a tablespoon. This may be served with beef or chicken and will take the place of sweet potato. PANNED BAKED SQUASH Saw the squash into small strips and remove the rind. Cut the pieces into two-inch lengths; throw them into boiling water, cook slowly for twenty minutes and drain. Arrange them in a baking-pan; dust each layer with a tablespoonful of sugar; cut two tablespoonfuls of butter into bits, put them over the top; add a half cup of water; cover the dish and bake in a slow oven for one hour, or until the squash is soft and transparent. Serve, in an uncovered vegetable dish, with broiled steak or roasted poultry. SQUASH, MASHED Peel and cut the squash into pieces. Steam or boil until perfectly tender; drain, and mash through a colander. To each pint allow a level tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonfut of pepper. Mix thoroughly and serve at once. SQUASH CROQUETTES These are usually made from left-over baked squash, or squash may be baked for the purpose. When thoroughly tender, put it through a vegetable press. To each pint allow a half cup of soft, fine bread crumbs, a level teaspoonful of salt, a level table-spoonful of butter, a saltspoonfnl of pepper. Mix thoroughly over the fire; take from the fire and turn out to cool. When cold form into cylinder-shaped croquettes; dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. COMMON PUMPKIN ( Cucurbita Pepo , Linn.) BAKED PUMPKIN Cut a large ripe pumpkin into halves, crosswise; remove the seeds from one-half, put the remaining half away to use another time. After taking out the seeds cut this half into quarters; place skin -side down in a baking-pan, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Do not have the oven sufficiently hot to color or blacken the skin. Arrange neatly on a platter and send to the table. Serve them by tablespoon-fuls the same as baked squash. Eat with salt, pepper and butter. Serve with boiled salted meat. Baked pumpkins form a very palatable winter vegetable. BOILED PUMPKIN Cut the pumpkin into strips, pare and remove the seeds. Put these strips into a saucepan, cover with boiling water and cook slowly until perfectly tender; drain in a colander. Turn them into a vegetable dish, and cover with white or cream sauce, Serve with roasted duck or goose. MASHED PUMPKIN Steam or boil a pumpkin according to the preceding recipe; when done drain and press through a colander. Return it to the saucepan, and to each quart add a tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, saltspoonful of pepper. Dish and serve the same as sweet potatoes. Serve with panned or roasted rabbit. TO DRY PUMPKIN Pare, cut into thin strips, then into pieces. Spread on boards and dry in the sun or warm oven. Keep in tin boxes or in glass jars in a dry closet. To cook?soak over night in cold water; then proceed the same as for fresh pumpkin. PUMPKIN TIMBALE Add to one pint of mashed pumpkin the yolks of four eggs well beaten, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Mix well and fill in custard or timbale cups. Stand in a baking-pan of boiling water and bake in a quick oven, twenty minutes. When done turn carefully from the cups, and send to the table. Serve with roasted duck or hot boiled ham. A GROUP OF SUCCULENT VEGETABLES CONTAINING A LITTLE STARCH AND SUGAR In this group will be found succulent vegetables containing about an equal amount of starch and sugar; not enough, however, to take the place of rice or potato, but sufficient to make them objectionable to diabetic persons. They are not valuable nutrients, and are placed among succulent vegetables as containing mineral matter and the necessary bulk. SALSIFY Salsify or oyster plant (Tragopogon porrifolius, Linn.) is an edible root resembling a small parsnip, and may be cooked and served according to the same rules. Owing to a peculiar fishy flavor it is frequently called vegetable oyster, and is used by vegetarians in imitation of the real oyster. It makes a delicious mock oyster soup; a recipe for which will be found under soups. MOCK OYSTERS 1 dozen oyster plants 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 3 eggs Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water to prevent discoloration. Cover with boiling water, cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour until tender; drain, and press through a colander. Add the salt, pepper and the eggs well beaten. Cover the bottom of a baking or saute pan with suet or oil, or lard if you use it. When hot drop in the mixture by spoonfuls, making each the shape of an oyster. Brown carefully on one side, turn and brown the other. Serve at once with tomato catsup, as a supper or luncheon dish. SCALLOPED SALSIFY Scrape and boil the salsify until tender, cut it into thin slices. To each dozen roots allow a half pint of white sauce. Put a layer of the sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of salsify, just a suspicion of celery seed, not more than a salt -spoonful to the whole dish; then another layer of sauce, and so continue until the dish is full. Cover the top with bread crumbs and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. BROWNED SALSIFY Scrape and boil the salsify until tender; drain and put them into a baking dish. Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of sugar in a half cup of water, pour this over the salsify, and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, basting once or twice. SALSIFY WITH BROWN SAUCE Scrape and boil the salsify, cut it into thin slices. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, adding a pint of the water in which the salsify was boiled; stir until boiling, add a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a bay leaf, a teaspoon-ful of kitchen bouquet and the salsify. Cook slowly for fifteen minutes and serve. SALSIFY WITH CREAM SAUCE Scrape one dozen salsify roots and throw them in cold water. Cut them in thin slices; cover with boiling water, cook until tender, about a half hour. Drain, dish and cover with a pint of cream sauce. Serve with boiled salt fish or baked salt mackerel. PARSNIPS Parsnip is the root of the Pastinaca sativa, Linn. It resembles the carrot in general appearance, except that it is white, and contains both sugar and starch. Being rich in woody fibre, the parsnip must be carefully cooked to be palatable and wholesome; they are usually served as an accompaniment to salt fish. COMPOSITION OF THE PARSNIP (Church) Water ........................... 82.0 Albuminoids, etc. ............... 1.2 Sugar........................... 5.0 Starch .......................... 3.5 Pectose, dextrin, etc. .......... 3.7 Fat ............................. 1.5 Cellulose ....................... 2.1 Mineral matter .................. 1.0 Parsnips are digested principally in the intestines. PARSNIP TIMBALE 4 good-sized parsnips 1/2 cup of milk 2 eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of onion juice Scrape the parsnips and throw them at once into cold water. When all are scraped cut into halves, throw them into boiling water and cook slowly until tender. Drain and mash them through a colander. Beat the eggs without separating until light; add the milk; stir this into the parsnips; add the salt, pepper and onion juice. Line the bottoms of small timbale molds with a piece of greased paper, fill in the mixture, stand them in a baking-pan of boiling water and bake twenty minutes. When done loosen the sides with a thin knife, and turn the timbales out on a heated platter; pour around cream sauce. Serve at dinner with corned beef or boiled salt fish. PARSNIPS ON TOAST 6 parsnips 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 pint of water Slice of onion 1 level teaspoonful of salt Select young parsnips; scrape and throw them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. Cut them into halves and then into quarters lengthwise; throw at once into a saucepan of boiling water, bring to boiling point, and cook just at the boiling point until perfectly tender, about three-quarters of an hour. When done have ready a plate covered with squares of neatly toasted bread. Lift the parsnips; drain and place them on the toast, heads all one way. Rub the butter and flour together, add the water, stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Strain this over the parsnips and send at once to the table. Serve with corned beef or boiled salt fish. SCALLOPED PARSNIPS 4 good-sized parsnips 1/2 cup of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onions Scrape and boil the parsnips; when tender cut them into blocks. Make a cream sauce from the butter, flour and milk; add the salt and pepper. Put a layer of the cream sauce in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of parsnips, a sprinkling of onions, and so continue until the dish is full, having the last layer sauce. Dust with fine bread crumbs and bake a half hour. Serve with salted boiled beef. BOILED AND BROWNED PARSNIPS Scrape the parsnips, and cut them into halves, throw them into cold water. Cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender, about three-quarters of an hour. Drain; arrange the parsnips in a baking pan flat side down. Dissolve two table-spoonfuls of sugar in two of water. Baste this carefully over the parsnips; then dust them with two tablespoonfuls of dry sugar. Put them into a quick oven and cook until a dark brown, basting once or twice. Serve as an accompaniment to roasted duck or fricassee of guinea. STRING BEANS ( Haricots Verts ) COMPOSITION (Hutchinson) Water............................ 89.5 Proteids ......................... 1.5 Carbo-hydrates ................... 7.3 Fat.............................. 0.4 Cellulose ........................ 0.6 Mineral matter ................... 0.7 It will be seen that string beansare not rich in nourishment and may well be placed with the green or succulent vegetables. They contain sufficient starch and sugar, however, to be detrimental to diabetic persons. To be easily digested and palatable they must be used fresh and while the pod is young and tender. String beans are waste or bulk food and are principally digested in the intestines. STRING beans, STEWED 2 quarts of beans 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the blossom end from the pod and pull it back, removing 21 the string without tearing, then cut a strip from the outside of the pod. In this way one is quite sure that the string portion is removed. Cut the pods crosswise into pieces of a half inch, throw them into boiling water to which you have added a teaspoonful of salt; boil rapidly for about five minutes, then simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Drain; return them to the saucepan; add the butter, salt and pepper. Stir carefully for a few minutes; cover and stand over hot water for ten minutes, and they are ready to serve. STRING BEANS WITH CREAM SAUCE String beans as directed in preceding recipe; cut them crosswise into pieces not over quarter of an inch; throw them into cold water for thirty minutes; put them into a kettle of boiling water to which you have added a teaspoonful of salt; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently three-quarters of an hour. Drain in a colander. In the pot in which they were cooked make a half pint of cream sauce, using a rounding tablespoon-ful of butter rubbed with a tablespoonful of flour; add a half pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; when boiling add the beans . Cover the kettle and stand it on the back part of the stove for ten minutes, tossing lightly once or twice. Serve in a heated dish, with beef or veal. BUTTER BEANS Remove the strings as directed in the first recipe; cut the pods in three or four strips lengthwise. Throw them into cold water for a half hour. Drain, put them into a saucepan, and cover with boiling water, adding a level teaspoonful of salt and a rounding tablespoonful of suet or butter. Cover the saucepan, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Drain, cover again with boiling water, boil twenty minutes longer. Drain, add a saltspoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter, and send at once to the table. STRING beans, GERMAN FASHION 2 quarts of beans 2 stalks of mint 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper String and cut the beans into strips lengthwise; cover them with boiling water, boil rapidly twenty minutes; drain, throw the water away. Re-cover with boiling water, add a teaspoon-ful of salt and the mint; cook slowly for a half hour. Drain, return them to the saucepan, add the butter, pepper and a half teaspoonful of extra salt. Shake over the fire until perfectly hot, and send at once to the table. A GROUP OF VEGETABLES CONTAINING NITROGEN AND STARCH Old dried peas Old dried beans of all varieties Ground or peanuts Lentils Chick peas To this same family belong clover, alfalfa, cow pea, and many other plants of economic importance. This group contains edible leguminous seeds, characterized by the large amount of nitrogenous matter they contain. As flesh formers or muscle and tissue building foods, they far excel the seeds of the cereal grasses. The amount of nitrogen in dry beans is double that in mature wheat. The albuminoids are present in a substance known as legumin, a vegetable casein. The Chinese take advantage of this peculiar form of nitrogen, and by certain methods make the pulp of both old peas and beans into a cheese which very closely resembles that made from cows ' milk. These vegetables, being rich in nitrogen, should be used in the place of meat, not with meat, and should be served with foods containing non-nitrogenous or carbonaceous nutrients; for instance, fat pork and beans, rice and lentils, dried peas and bacon are samples of the best form of blending. Legumin is digested and absorbed at a slower rate than the albuminoids of milk, eggs and meat; hence, these vegetables are unfit for daily food for persons whose occupation confines them in close and ill-ventilated rooms, or where little exercise can be taken. They are exceedingly valuable for the outdoor laborer; being less in price they may be substituted frequently for meat. PEAS Peas (Pisum sativum, Linn.) are the seeds of a leguminous plant. When mature and ripe (old and dried) they contain according to Payne Nitrogenous matter ......... 23.8 Starch,etc. ..................... 58.7 Cellulose ........................ 3.5 Fatty matter ..................... 2.1 Mineral matter ................... 2.1 Water ............................ 8.3 Church in his analysis finds three per cent, mineral matter, a little more fat and cellulose, less starch and nitrogenous matter and fourteen per cent, of water. It is sufficient to know, however, that they are very rich in nitrogen, and have a meat value. Nitrogenous foods are principally digested in the stomach and are muscle and tissue builders. Peas contain starch and fat, both carbonaceous elements. Starches are digested in the small intestines and fats are emulsionized. While peas contain nitrogenous matter and starch, the starch is insufficient to make a balanced ration. Serve with them fat, as bacon, or other starchy food, as potatoes or rice. Served with fat and starch, as white bread and butter, they form a typical food, and one would have in this combination a highly nutritious diet. It is estimated by Hutchinson that a level tablespoonful of peameal made into a plate of thick water soup will have the proteid value of one ounce of meat. If milk instead of water is used, the proteid would be at least double Old or dried peas must be soaked over night that they may take up the same amount of water with which they parted in the drying. This reduces their nutritive value from the table given. The field pea (Pisum arvense, Linn.), sometimes called the commercial pea, is not used in this country as food for man. The chick pea (Cicer arietinum, Linn.) is not commonly known to American people; it can be purchased, however, in some of the Jewish markets of New York. It is highly nitrogenous, and is said to be the pulse referred to in the Bible. It is usually toasted and eaten the same as peanuts. It is used in small quantities in Spain and extensively in the East. The Arabs when crossing the desert carry chick peas, feeling that they have with them a typical or perfect food. Split peas are dried peas with the tough envelope removed, which allows them to divide easily into halves; they are much more easily cooked than those dried in the husk or skin. Young or green peas served as succulent vegetables, not rich in nitrogen, are considered under vegetables containing sugar. PURéE OF PEAS Wash one pint of dried peas, cover with cold water and soak them over night. Next morning drain, cover with two quarts of fresh cold water and bring slowly to boiling point. Add a saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda and cook slowly for about three hours. Then press the whole through a colander, return the puree to the soup kettle, add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour rubbed together. Turn into this a quart of hot milk, and when the puree again reaches the boiling point strain it through a fine sieve and serve with tiny croutons. Stock or water may be used in the place of milk; the latter gives added nourishment. This recipe will answer also for Puree of Split Peas. BAKED, MASHED PEAS Wash and soak a pint of split peas over night; next morning cover with cold water, add a saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda, and cook slowly until perfectly tender, about three hours. Save the water in which they were cooked, and press the peas through a colander. Add to them a tablespoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a quarter of a cup of hot milk, and beat until light. Turn this into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven about one hour. Serve in the dish in which they were baked and serve with them boiled rice or mashed potatoes. PEA CHOWDER Soak a half pint of split peas over night in cold water; next morning drain, cover with cold water, add a half saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda and cook slowly for three hours, or until the peas are tender. Drain, saving the water for soup. Add to the peas one can of corn, a half pint of milk, a level teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper. Push to the back part of the stove, cover closely, and cook slowly for thirty minutes; then add a tablespoonful of butter and serve at once. Serve with this baked potatoes or boiled rice. The dish has meat value. SPLIT PEAS, GERMAN FASHION Soak a half pint of split peas as directed; next morning drain, cover them with a quart of fresh cold water, add a saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda and cook slowly for three hours. Drain; add to the peas six good-sized onions sliced very fine, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Add one pint of fresh boiling water, cover the pan closely and simmer gently for a half hour. Then add a half cup of well washed rice; cover the kettle again, and steam until the rice is tender, about a half hour. While this is cooking, rub together two table-spoonfuls of butter and two of flour, add a pint of strained tomato and stir until boiling; add a half teaspoonful of salt. Dish the vegetables in a platter, heaping them in the centre, pour over the tomato sauce and send at once to the table. This dish contains meat value and sufficient carbo-hydrates and green vegetables to form the entire meal. No other vegetables or meat should be served. BEANS KIDNEY BEANS (Phaseolus vulgaris, Linn.) This one variety covers nearly all the beans in common use as food for man. The common soup or kidney bean, the Boston white beans used for baking, and the red bean may all be cooked in precisely the same manner. Haricots are small white beans. While the different varieties give just a trifle more or less nitrogenous matter, one analysis will serve for the whole. The broad or Windsor bean (Faba vulgaris, Moench) is said to contain more nitrogen than other varieties. COMPOSITION OF HARICOT beans(Church) Water .............................. 14.0 Albuminoids, etc. .................. 23.0 Starch,etc. ....................... 52.3 Fat ................................ 2.3 Cellulose .......................... 5.5 Mineral matter ..................... 2.9 All beansas butter, kidney, caseknife and flageolets may be cooked in precisely the same manner. The main points to be remembered are that all dried beans must be soaked over night in cold water, and cooked in soft, un salted water just at or below the boiling point, not boiled rapidly. Water rapidly boiled is precisely the same in temperature as that boiled slowly, but the motion of the water washes off the outside of the beans and destroys their texture. KIDNEY BEANS These are a fresh shell bean, sold in pods like lima bean s. The bean is small and shaped like a kidney. Shell and wash them in cold water; throw them into a kettle of boiling, un salted water; cook slowly for forty-five minutes. Drain and season with a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter to each pint; or use cream and omit the butter, or they may be simply served plain with tomato sauce. KIDNEY BEANS WITH BROWN SAUCE 1 quart of kidney beans 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 slice of onion 1 pound of soup meat 2 tablcspoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 sweet chilli 2 tablespoonfuls of thick tomato Put the beans into a saucepan; add the meat chopped fine, cover with boiling water and cook gently thirty minutes; then add a teaspoonful of salt and cook thirty minutes longer. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, mix and add the tomato, the chilli mashed or chopped very fine, a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and a pint of the water in which the beans were boiled; stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful of grated onion juice or just a suspicion of garlic, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a clash of white pepper. Strain this sauce into the beans that have been carefully drained; re-heat over hot water and use in the place of meat. Serve with plain boiled rice. DRIED BEANS These may be of almost any kind or color. Black beans, however, are as a rule used for soup making; the white and red beans are served in the place of meat. Every variety must be washed well, soaked over night and the next morning put into a kettle of boiling water and boiled until tender. Drain, cover with fresh cold water, and cook slowly about two hours. If boiled rapidly the skin will break and spoil the shape of the bean. When tender, drain and add salt, pepper and butter. The water in which dried beans are boiled may be saved for bean broth and soups; or with left-over beans for puree. RED beans, SPANISH FASHION 1/2 pint of dried red beans 1 small carrot 1/2 pound of lean beef 1 chilli 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 onion 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water; in the morning drain. Chop the beef, put it into a very hot kettle, stir a moment until the beef is browned; cover the kettle and push to the back part of the stove for twenty minutes. Then add one quart of cold water; bring to boiling point and add the beans, tied loosely in a piece of cheesecloth, sugar and pepper. Scald and peel one sweet chilli, chop fine and add it to the mixture. Cover and cook slowly until the beans are tender, about an hour and a half; then add the salt. Remove the beans, strain the sauce, add to it the beans and add the butter. The mixture should have boiled down just sufficient to cover the beans. Serve with rice or boiled chestnuts. POLENTA 1 pint of small white soup beans 1 1/2 tablespoonfuls of molasses 1/4 teaspoonful of ground mustard 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans and soak them over night; the next morning cover with fresh cold water, bring slowly to boiling point and simmer one hour. When done, press through a fine colander; add the other ingredients and stir over the fire for ten minutes. Serve in a vegetable dish; or turn into a square mold and stand to cool. When cold, cut into blocks, dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato or cream sauce. BEAN BALLS These are made precisely the same as Polenta, omitting the mustard. When cold, form into cylinders, or small balls, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve on a bed of nicely boiled rice. Pour around cream sauce, dust with finely chopped parsley, and send to the table. PORK AND BEANS,OR BAKED BEANS 1 quart of small white soup beans 1 pound of salt or pickled pork 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses Soak the beans over night. The next morning, wash them and put them into a kettle of boiling water and boil until the skins will crack when you blow on them. They must not be soft. Score the rind of the pork and boil it with the beans. When the skin of the beans cracks, take them from the fire; drain and turn them at once into the bean pot; bury the pork in the centre until only the scored skin remains above the beans. Put a tea-spoonful of salt and the molasses into one pint of the water in which the beans were boiled; mix and pour over the beans in the pot. This should just come to the surface. Put on the lid and bake in a moderate oven from six to eight hours. Add more of the bean water as that in the pot evaporates. If properly done each bean will be soft; no two beans should stick together. The water will have entirely evaporated and the beans be a dark, rich brown in color. If the beans have been boiled too long they will not keep shape in baking. BAKED beans WITH TOMATO SAUCE Boil the beans as directed in preceding recipe. Spread them out and when cold carefully "pulp" each one. This renders them much more digestible and wholesome. Put the beans in a bean pot. Add a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of sugar to one quart of strained tomato. Pour this over the beans, cover the pot and bake slowly from four to six hours. Pork may be added the same as in preceding recipe; or better, chopped nuts or suet in layers with beans. Use a mixture of Brazilian and pine- nuts. STEWED WHITE BEANS 1/2 pint of beans 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans and soak them in cold water over night; next morning put them into a saucepan with one quart of boiling water and a half saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda. Cook slowly for one hour or until the beans are perfectly tender; drain, saving the water. When slightly cold, "pulp" each bean throwing away the skins. Rub together the butter and flour : add them to the water in which the beans were cooked, add the salt, pepper and chopped onion; bring to boiling point'; add the beans and cook slowly fifteen minutes and serve. beans WITH TOMATO SAUCE Cook the beans according to the preceding recipe, saving the water for soups. When the beans are "pulped" re-heat them in a pint of tomato sauce. RED BEANS WITH BROWN SAUCE 1/2 pint of red beans 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 slice of onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1/2 pint of stock 1/2 pint of strained tomatoes Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water; next morning cover with boiling water and cook slowly until the beans are tender, about one hour. Drain, and pulp or skin the beans. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock and tomato and all the seasonings; bring to boiling point, add the beans, cook slowly fifteen minutes and serve. These are among the nicest of winter vegetables and have meat value. STEWED RED BEANS 1/2 pint of beans 1 small onion 1 carrot 1/4 pound of bacon or two tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water; in the morning drain. Put the bacon, sliced, into a saucepan, add the onion and carrot chopped fine. Add the beans and cover the whole with cold water; bring to boiling point add a halt saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda; simmer gently one hour or until the beans are tender. When done, drain and "pulp." Return them to the saucepan, stand the saucepan over a kettle of hot water, add an extra tablespoonful of butter, the salt and pepper and serve when hot. Cut the bacon into neat pieces and use as a garnish to the dish. BEAN SOUFFLE Cover one pint of beans with cold water and soak over night; next morning wash and drain and cover with boiling water; boil one hour; drain and cover again with fresh boiling water; cook slowly one hour; drain and press through a colander; add a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of butter, and four tablespoonfuls of hot milk; beat until light; then fold in the well beaten whites of two eggs; turn this into a baking dish and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. This dish has meat value. LIMA BEANS (Phaseolus lunatus, Linn.) These beans are both "climbers" and "bush." They are characterized by being Hat and larger than the ordinary kidney bean, and contain a trifle more starch and less nitrogen. As the hull of beans is indigestible, it is always wise to blanch and remove, or "pulp" them. Cook carefully that they may become soft without falling apart. TO COOK LIMA BEAN S 1 quart of young lima bean s 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 cup of cream Wash the beans in cold water, put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water and add half the salt. Boil gently for twenty minutes or until they are perfectly tender. Drain the beans in a colander and "pulp" them gently as you would slip almonds from the skins. Return them to the saucepan, dd the cream and the remaining salt and pepper. Stand the saucepan over a moderate fire until the beans and cream are thoroughly heated. Serve in a hot dish. The outside skin or covering of beans is exceedingly indigestible and should always be removed before serving They may be served with simply a seasoning of salt, pepper and butter. Cold lima bean s may be mixed with other vegetables and used in salads. LIMA BEAN CAKES Press cold left-over lima bean s through a fine sieve. To each half pint add the yolk of one egg, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of onion juice. Form into little cakes or balls, dip into the white of the egg that has been slightly beaten with a tablespoonful of water; roll in bread crumbs and fry in deep, hot fat. LIMA BEAN S à la POULETTE 1 pint of young beans 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice Yolks of two eggs 1/2 pint of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cover the beans with boiling water, add half the salt and boil gently thirty minutes. Drain and "pulp." Put the butter and flour into a saucepan; when melted add the milk, stir until boiling, add the remaining quantity of salt, pepper and onion juice. Add the beans and when the mixture is smoking hot take from the fire and add the yolks of the eggs beaten with the cream. Dish the beans in a round vegetable dish, garnish the edge with triangular pieces of toasted bread and send at once to the table. A very nice luncheon dish. DRIED LIMA BEAN S Soak one pint of beans in cold water over night; next morning drain off the water, and cover with fresh boiling water; cook slowly one hour. Drain off this water and "pulp" the beans. Cover again with boiling water; add a sprig of dried mint, if you have it, and a half saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda. Cook until tender, about one hour. Drain and add a level tea-spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; sprinkle over one tablespoonful of flour; mix, and add one tablespoonful of butter and a half pint of milk. Shake carefully until the sauce reaches the boiling point, and serve. LIMA BEAN SOUFFLé Press left-over boiled lima bean s through a sieve, and to each half pint add the yolks of two eggs, beat, and fold in the well beaten whites. Turn in a baking pan, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. BLACK OR TURTLE BEANS ( Dolichos Lablab , Linn.) On account of the black coloring matter contained in these seeds, they are used principally for mock turtle soup, or what is commonly known as black bean soup. They are, however, excellent when well cooked, pressed through a colander, and served in puree. RED BEANS The red Mexican beans are simply a variety of kidney bean. The flesh of the bean is perfectly white; the outside skin is red, and during the cooking colors the centre of the bean. With tomato and chilli sauce these make an admirable dinner dish and take the place of meat. Macaroni or spaghetti are usually served with them. SOY BEAN ( Glycine hispida , Maxim.) Soy beans are grown principally in China where they form an important article of food; in fact, they are the richest of all in food constituents. It is also grown to a considerable extent in India, where it is mixed with rice. This bean ranks high in fat and albuminoids and is their only muscle-making food. It has more than meat value. By the Chinese it is made into cheese, pastes and sauces. Soy sauce is used by them on all meat and fish dishes. For the English and Americans it forms the foun- dation for such sauces as club-house and Worcestershire. Soy is an agreeable seasoning to creamed meat dishes and a very pleasant addition to French salad dressing. It can be purchased in jugs at any Chinese shop, or at the American wholesale druggists by measure. COMPOSITION (Church) Albuminoids, etc................ 35.3 Fat........................ 18.9 Starch and Dextrin .............. 12.5 Sugar....................... 12.0 Cellulose...................... 4.2 Water....................... 12.5 Mineral Matter.......... 4.6 LENTILS ( Lens esculenta , Moench) While the nitrogenous matter in lentils is greater than that in peas and beans, it is presented in a more digestible form. There is no doubt that lentils are the best and most easily digested of nitrogenous vegetables; they take the place of lean meats and should be served with rice, potatoes or other starchy foods. COMPOSITION OF HUSKED LENTILS (Church) Water....................... 12.5 Albuminoids.................... 25.0 Starch...................... 56.1 Fat........................ 2.0 Cellulose..................... 1.9 Mineral Matter................... 2.5 The red, or Arabian lentils, are rich in iron, rarely ever come to this country, and when they do, only in small quantities, and sell at a high price. The Revelenta arabica, sold at a dollar a pound, is red lentil flour, used principally with milk for making soup or gruel for nursing mothers; it is said to produce milk of excellent quality. It is also used in purees or soufflés in cases of neurasthenia. Lentils should be served in every household at least once a week. They form an excellent substitute for flesh. In appearance they resemble a dark, tiny split pea; they are round but flat, not globular, like peas. While extensively grown in the United States they are principally used by the Germans. STEWED LENTILS Wash a half pint of lentils, cover with cold water and soak over night. Next morning drain, cover with fresh boiling water and cook slowly one hour. Drain; return them to the kettle; add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt and a salt -spoonful of pepper; shake for a moment until thoroughly hot and serve. STEWED LENTILS WITH RICE Cook the lentils according to the preceding recipe. While they are cooking, boil, drain and dry a half pint of rice; put a table-spoonful of butter in a saucepan, add four tablespoonfuls of chopped onion; cook carefully without browning the butter until the onion is soft. Add the lentils, drained, shake the saucepan over the fire until they are thoroughly hot; add the rice; toss the whole well together, and add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and serve at once. With a carefully cooked green vegetable, these will form the " meat " course at dinner. THICK LENTIL PUREE Wash and boil the lentils as directed in the first recipe. Drain, and press them through a colander; return them to the saucepan and add a quarter cup of hot milk, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter. Beat over the fire until thoroughly hot and serve in an uncovered vegetable dish. LENTIL PUREE, BAKED Turn the preceding mixture into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven until a golden brown. This second cooking aids in the digestion of the lentils. This, with brown bread and butter, makes an excellent supper dish. LENTIL SOUFFLE Add the well beaten whites of four eggs to the thick puree. Turn into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven thirty minutes. Serve at once. As this is highly nitrogenous, serve with either rice or white bread. LENTIL CROQUETTES Wash a pint of lentils and soak them over night; next morning drain, cover with fresh boiling water and cook slowly for one hour; drain again. Press the lentils through a colander, add a level teaspoonful of salt, saltspoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of cream, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of onion juice, and just a grating of nutmeg. Mix thoroughly; form into cylinder shaped croquettes; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve plain or with tomato sauce. LENTILS, EGYPTIAN STYLE Boil the lentils as directed in preceding recipe. Boil an equal quantity of rice. While they are boiling strain one pint of stewed tomatoes; add a bay leaf, a good-sized onion, chopped fine, and a blade of mace. Cook until reduced one-half; strain. When the lentils are done, drain, mix them with the rice, turn into a heated dish and press a few cardamom seeds here and there into the mass. Season the tomato with a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; stir in quickly a rounding tablespoonful of butter, and strain it over the lentils and rice. This is a sightly and attractive dinner dish, and has meat value. Cocoanut fat, or olive oil, may be used in the place of butter. LENTILS WITH CREAM SAUCE Boil the lentils; when done drain and dish; pour over a half pint of white or cream sauce and send at once to the table. LENTIL PIE Soak and boil a half pint of lentils. Chop fine a quarter of a pound of Brazilian nuts. Drain the lentils; add the nuts, a level teaspoonful of salt and one grated onion. Rub two table-spoonfuls of peanut butter into a pint of white flour; add cold water to moisten. Knead; roll out in a thin sheet. Put the lentil mixture in a deep pie dish and add a half cup of water. Cover with the crust and bake one hour. Serve hot with English drawn butter. PEANUTS ( Arachis hypogaea , Linn.) Botanically these belong to the pulse tribe; leguminous seeds rich in nitrogenous matter, but for convenience, recipes for their use and cookery have been placed with nuts. A GROUP OF VEGETABLES CONTAINING NITROGENOUS MATTER WITHOUT STARCH OR SUGAR MUSHROOMS All the mushrooms and truffles belong to a large group of fungi, plants void of chlorophyll. They are placed among the nitrogenous foods, that is they do not contain starch or sugar. They consist, however, of 90% water. Of the remaining 10% a portion is vegetable fibre. They are food adjuncts, or flavoring, rather than true foods. They do not contain sufficient nitrogenous matter to take the place of meat. To obtain from them the proper amount of nourishment one would be obliged to eat them in large quantities; as they are dense and difficult of digestion, this would be impracticable and dangerous. A cook-book is scarcely the proper place to discuss mushrooms; the subject is too large for the available space. A few recipes for the cooking and preserving of the more common varieties will, I am sure, be of great service. The question, how can one be sure of " mushrooms " or "toadstools" is an important one. The average person calls the edible varieties mushrooms, the poisonous ones toadstools. The fact is, however, that they are all toadstools or all mushrooms. Some are poisonous, others edible. The question reverts then, to how can one be sure of knowing the poisonous from the edible varieties. Let me emphatically state that there is no royal road to distinguishing the poisonous from the edible mushrooms; one must know all their characteristics, habitat and general appearance. All of the common tests, as the gold ring or silver spoon, are fallacies. In certain parts of the country the common people use the Morel, calling it a mushroom and every other variety a toadstool. In many States the Agaricus campestris is known as the mushroom, and all others are toadstools. In Maine, especially on some of the coast islands, the Cantharellus is the mushroom. So that the term mushroom or toadstool is not applied to the same fungus in different places. Avoid all mushrooms that have a veil hanging in a form of skirt from the stem and those having a cup or volva in the ground out of which the stem seems to be growing. While "veils" may be found on other mushrooms, they are sure to be found on the poisonous ones. Avoid such mushrooms; do not even taste them, for the poisonous ones are very deadly. Mushrooms differ in analysis and density of flesh as well as in flavor, hence, different methods of cooking are desirable. The Coprinus micaceus and Lepiota procera are easily destroyed by long and severe cooking. The more dense and common Agaricus campestris, and some varieties of the Boleti, require long slow cooking to make them tender, digestible, and bring out the flavor. Simplicity in seasoning is desirable; wine, mustard, onion or any other decided flavors will entirely overpower the delicate mushroom flavor. All mushrooms are best cooked without peeling, with the exception of the puff ball, which should always be pared. In washing take one mushroom in each hand, gill sides down; wash them quickly by plunging them in and out of the water while rubbing the caps with the thumbs; shake and throw them into a colander. Recipes for Agaricus campestris will answer for all other mushrooms which have firm, solid flesh, as the Cantharellus, Agaricus Arvensis, Armillaria mellca, Paxillus rhodoxanthus, Hypholoma perplexum, Lactarius deliciosus, Lactarius volemus, Marasmius oreades , and the Russulce . Russula virescens is excellent raw, in salads. The Coprini are best baked or panned, the Lepiota broiled or panned, the Morchella (morel) stuffed and baked, the puff ball sliced and sauted. The Agaricus campestris grows in old pasture fields and along the roadside and often in gardens. It is usually found in the sod. The cap is first rounded, as it grows, expands and shows the gills, which are at first pink, growing a dark brown as the mushroom ages. The flesh is white, the gills are free from the stem, the flesh of both the cap and stem solid. It is the common pasture or meadow mushroom, and is, perhaps, the most widely known and collected of all mushrooms. It is this variety that is cultivated in cellars and caves. AGARICUS CAMPESTRIS Cut the stems close to the gills. These may be put aside to use for flavoring sauce or soup. Wash carefully, gill sides down. Throw them into a colander to drain. To each pound allow two ounces of butter. Put the butter in a saucepan; when melted, not browned, throw in the mushrooms, either whole or cut into slices. Sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper; cover the saucepan closely and cook-over a very slow fire for twenty minutes. Moisten a rounding tablespoonful of flour in a little cold milk. When perfectly smooth, add a half cup of milk. Strain this into the mushrooms; stir carefully until boiling. Serve at once, either plain or on toast. This also makes a good sauce to serve with broiled or panned chicken. To serve with steak, cook the mushrooms until tender, in butter, season with salt and pepper only. Do not add either flour or milk. BROILED MUSHROOMS Cut the stems close to the gills; wash as directed and put them in a wire broiler and broil, gill side down, for five minutes; turn, put in the centre of each a piece of butter the size of a pea. Dust lightly with salt and pepper, and broil over a mild fire skin side down, for five minutes. Have ready squares of neatly toasted buttered bread. Place on top the mushrooms, skin side down, and send at once to the table. PANNED MUSHROOMS Wash one pound of mushrooms and cut the stems as in preceding recipes. Crowd them, skin side down, in a baking pan. Dust lightly with salt and pepper and pour over a tablespoonful of melted butter. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. While these are cooking, toast squares of bread, and put them on a hot platter. Heap on top the mushrooms and baste with the sauce in the bottom of the pan. If the pan is dry add a half cup of milk. MUSHROOMS IN A CHAFING DISH Wash, stem and cut the mushrooms into thin slices. To each pound allow two ounces of butter. Put the butter in the chafing dish; when melted put in the mushrooms, sprinkle with a level teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper. Cover the dish; cook slowly five minutes, stirring once or twice. Moisten a level tablespoonful of flour in a little cold milk; add one gill of milk. Add this to the mushrooms, cover the dish and cook three minutes longer. Serve at once from the dish. The well beaten yolks of two eggs and a half cup of cream may be substituted for flour and milk. Stir and serve the moment the eggs are added or the mixture will curdle. UNDER A MUSHROOM BELL Cut rounds from slices of bread, with an ordinary biscuit cutter. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan to melt. Toast the bread; arrange the slices in the bottom of a mushroom dish. Wash, stem and drain the mushrooms. Put three or four on each slice of bread, heaping them in the centre. Baste with melted butter; dust them with salt and pepper, and pour into the dish six tablespoonfuls of good cream. Cover with the "bells," stand them in a baking pan and then in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Send to the table without lifting the "bells." In this way one gets the full aroma of the mushrooms. This recipe is arranged for individual "bells." The portion will be the same where one large "bell" is used for the entire pound. COPRINUS, THE INKY MUSHROOM Coprinus comatus is another well known variety of the more common mushrooms. These are found growing along railroads, especially where soft and hard coal are transported. Also in mining localities and on ash "dumps." In the soft coal districts of Illinois this mushroom grows most plentifully. It is readily recognized by its black spores. As it grows to maturity the gills seem to dissolve into a sort of inky fluid. The young plants or buttons have white gills which turn black as the spores mature. The cap has a rough shaggy appearance, hence, the common name, "shaggy mane." In appearance it is like a tiny umbrella closed down to the stem. The stem is hollow, loose from the cap and is easily taken out. Coprinus atramentarius , the companion of the comatus, is also edible. The cap of this variety is smooth and does not so closely hug the stem. It also has white gills in a very young stage. The skin of the cap is smooth and of a grayish color, but in a short time it begins to spread and the gills turn very black from discoloration of the spores, and the edges begin to melt away. Both these varieties are not only edible, but exceedingly delicate and palatable. In the Eastern part of the United States they appear in the early summer, and continue until November. In Illinois they are most plentiful in September and October. Coprinus micaceus , a tiny little mushroom, soft and easily digested, is another variety of this "inky" group. The caps of these are tan color, and the size of a large thimble. They grow in huge groups around trees, especially elms. I have seen as many as two hundred in a single bunch. These are said to be the most easily digested of all mushrooms. They have black spores, as black as ink, after cooking. The following recipe will answer for all soft and juicy mushrooms as the comatus and atramentarius or micaceus. Remove the stems, wash carefully, throw them into a colander to drain. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a shallow baking pan, put in the mushrooms, crowding them together in two layers'. Dust with a half teaspoonful of salt and a half saltspoonful of pepper. Cook slowly in a moderate oven a half hour. Serve at once on a hot dish, garnished with triangular bits of toast. Add a cup of cream to the pan, heat quickly and pour it over the mushrooms. COPRINUS MICACEUS, STEAMED Remove the stems, wash the mushrooms and throw them into a colander. To each quart allow a tablespoonful of butter. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms, cover closely. Place them over a slow fire for five minutes. Lift the mushrooms with a skimmer and put them into another saucepan. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of milk to the liquor; boil rapidly for five minutes. Dish the mushrooms on toast, pour over the sauce and serve at once. LEPIOTA PROCERA This is the "parasol" mushroom, or " Scotch bonnet." It grows in pastures, along the edges of woods, along roadsides at the edge of woods, and sometimes in the shady spots in gardens. The cap is oval at first, umbonate at the centre when expanded. When fully grown frequently measures from six to seven inches in diameter. The surface of the cap is reddish brown, in wet weather ofttimes quite pale. As the cap expands, the darker brown surface is torn and remains in scales all over the surface of the cap. The stem is round, "stuffed," and has a prominent ring just below the gills. This ring differs from a "veil" in that it is free from the stem and can be moved up and down. This variety is, of all mushrooms, the richest in flavor. They may be easily dried and are the best variety for catsup. BAKED LEPIOTA PROCERA The flesh of the cap being thin the gills dry easily. To be good they must be cooked quickly. Remove the stems; take the mushroom in your hand, cap side up, and wash each separately with a soft piece of cheese cloth; dip it into water and rub lightly the cap. This will remove the brown scales and leave the gills dry. Grease a baking pan with butter; put in the mushrooms, skin side down. Bake in a quick oven ten minutes; baste the gills lightly with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and serve quickly. Or put them in a broiler, broil five minutes, turning once; baste with a little butter, dust with salt and pepper, and serve at once on heated platter. These, if overcooked, become leathery, tasteless and dry. Cook quickly and eat at once. PLEUROTUS OSTREATUS These are commonly called the " Oyster " mushroom, on account of their odor. They grow in groups or clusters on trunks and branches of trees, either with a short side stem or directly out from the wood, without stem. The spores are white. For the best results select young plants, as they grow woody with age. " OYSTER " MUSHROOM SOUP Wash and shake the mushrooms; cut them into strips crosswise of the gills, rejecting the woody portion on the stem side. To each pound of these strips allow a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper. Put the butter into the saucepan, add the mushrooms, sprinkle over the salt and pepper. Cover and stew slowly for twenty minutes. Moisten a tablespoonful of flour in a little cold milk, then add a half pint of milk. Strain into the mushrooms. Stew gently for five minutes and add another half pint of milk with a grating of nutmeg. Serve with oyster crackers the same as oyster soup. To serve as a Stew omit the last milk and nutmeg; add the beaten yolk of one egg and pour the mixture over nicely toasted bread. MOCK OYSTERS Trim the oyster mushrooms into the shape of oysters. Dust with salt and pepper. Beat an egg without separating and add a tablespoonful of warm water; beat again. Dip the mushrooms first in the egg, then in the bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat, just as you would oysters. Serve at once. CLAVARIA Clavaria or coral mushroom grows in large bunches in woods. One variety is saffron color, another white, another a bluish gray; all are exceedingly delicate and tender. These are best pickled or deviled. DEVILED CLAVARIA Wash, separate the bunches and cut them fine. Measure; allow to each quart a half pint of white sauce. Throw the Clavaria into a saucepan, cover and steam on the back part of the stove while you make the sauce. Take from the fire, add the Clavaria, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, and the yolks of two eggs; turn the mixture into a baking dish, sprinkle the top with bread crumbs and brown in a quick oven. PICKLED CLAVARIA Wash thoroughly without breaking. Put into a steamer and steam continuously for fifteen minutes. Take from the fire, and when cool pack in glass jars. Heat sufficient vinegar to cover; to each quart allow two bay leaves, six cloves, a tea-spoonful of whole mustard, one dozen pepper corns. Bring to the boiling point. Pour over the Clavaria, fasten the jars and put aside to cool. These will keep all winter, and may be used as a pickle or on lettuce leaves with French dressing as a salad. CANTHARELLUS This group is distinguished by the form of gills, which are decurrent, forked, sometimes irregular; in some species look like veins. Cantharellus cibarius is known to most persons as the "chan-tarell" and is one of the best of the edible mushrooms. The entire mushroom, cap, gills and stem, is of a rich chrome yellow When broken it has a faint odor of ripe peach. It grows in the woods, especially under hemlocks, generally in clusters of twos or threes. These are best stewed with cream. MORCHELLA (Morels or Cup-Fungi) These are different in shape from the ordinary mushrooms. The cap is cup shaped, the outside of which is covered with pits irregularly arranged. The Morchella esculenta is the one best known. It grows in orchards in the early spring. These mushrooms may be stewed, baked or panned, but are best stuffed. Remove the stems, wash and drain. Make a stuffing of fine bread crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper and chopped parsley and sufficient melted butter to moisten. Stuff the mushrooms; stand them in a baking pan, add a table-spoonful of butter and a half cup of stock. Bake thirty minutes, dish and put into the pan in which they were cooked one cupful of strained tomatoes. Boil rapidly fifteen minutes, or until slightly thickened, and strain it over the mushrooms. Garnish with triangular pieces of toast, and send at once to the table. BEEFSTEAK ( Fistulina hepatica ) This mushroom grows like a great red tongue on chestnut trees. It appears about August and continues until frost. The acid or sour taste makes them unpalatable alone, but as a sauce for beefsteak or for catsup they are excellent. BEEFSTEAK SAUCE Remove the soft upper skin and cut off the pores. Cut the mushrooms into strips. To each pound allow a tablespoonful of butter, a half cup of stock, a half teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Put all the ingredients with the mushrooms in the saucepan. Cover closely and stew slowly a half hour. Pour over a well broiled beefsteak, or serve with roasted mutton. PUFF BALLS ( Lycoperdon ) All puff balls are edible when young and fresh. The flesh must be white to the very centre. Do not use them if they have the slightest yellow tinge. The giant puff ball (Lycoperdon giganteum) is the largest species of the genus. I have seen this variety in Indian a and Iowa weighing from seven to nine pounds. PUFF BALLS a la POULETTE Pare the puff balls, cut them into slices, then into dice. Put them in a saucepan, allowing one tablespoonful of butter to each pint of blocks. Cover and stew gently fifteen minutes. Lift the lid, and add a level teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper, and again cover the saucepan. Beat the yolks of three eggs, add to them a half cup of cream. Add this to the saucepan; shake until smoking hot, but do not allow them to boil. Serve at once on toast. Puff balls, mild in flavor, may be cooked with Agaricus campestris in equal quantities; the mixture improves the flavor of both. Puff balls are very good pared, cut into slices, seasoned and sauted in hot oil; they may also be broiled. BOLETUS This group contains a large number of varieties. They belong to the same genera as the beefsteak mushrooms. The spores are not borne on gills as in the common mushrooms, but in Pores or tubes; these pores give the under surface the appear-ance of a fine sponge. The flesh is soft and quickly decays. To cook cut off the thick stem close to the pores. Wash the caps and remove the pores. Dust the caps with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve at once with tomato catsup. MUSHROOM CATSUP Wash and slice two quarts of mushrooms. Put a layer in the bottom of a stone jar. Sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt then another layer of mushrooms, another teaspoonful of salt, and so continue until the jar is full. Cover and stand aside over night. Next day drain the liquor from the mushrooms and chop them fine. Measure the liquor; put it into a porcelain lined kettle and to each pint allow a saltspoonful of pepper, a blade of mace, two whole cloves, a teaspoonful of mustard seed, a saltspoonful of ground ginger, and two bay leaves. Boil five minutes; strain; add the mushrooms; boil again five minutes, take from the fire, add a half cup of port wine, bottle, cork and seal. TO DRY MUSHROOMS The Agaricus campestris, Lepiota procera, Russula and Can-tharellus are among the best varieties for this purpose. Remove the stems; do not wash, but string them on a long cord, using a darning or trussing needle. Hang them in the sun and wind, or over the kitchen range where the heat will be sufficient to thoroughly dry in a few hours. Put them away in a box lined with paper. Keep in a perfectly dry place. To cook, soak them in a little water or milk and cook them without draining. TO CAN MUSHROOMS Wash the mushrooms, remove the stems and pack the caps into glass jars, adjust the rubbers, put the lids on loosely, and stand the jars in a wash boiler, the bottom of which has been protected with a rack. Surround the jars half way up with cold water. Cover the boiler, bring to boiling point, and boil continuously one and a half hours. Fill two jars from a third. Screw on the tops, stand them back at once into the boiler, coyer the boiler, cook, twenty minutes longer, lift and when quite cold, give the tops another turn. For canning, select Agaricus campestris, Russula, Lactarius deliciosus or Lepiota procera. A GROUP OF VEGETABLES CONTAINING SUGAR, NO STARCH New, or green peas New, or green corn Beets Carob beans YOUNG GREEN PEAS These are very rich in water, have little mineral matter, and if it were not for the sugar they contain would be placed with succulent vegetables. In menu building they are always served with starchy foods or meats. They are palatable and easy of digestion, when cooked simply. For invalids and children, however, they should be pressed through a colander to remove the hulls, and served either mashed or made into a puree. COMPOSITION Water ...................... 78.1 Proteid ....................... 4.0 Sugar ....................... 16.0 Fat ........................ 0.5 Cellulose ...................... 0.5 Mineral ...................... 0.9 Young peas are principally digested in the intestines. TO COOK GREEN PEAS The sweetness and flavor of green peas depend entirely upon careful cooking. Shell and throw them into cold water for twenty minutes; drain and put them into a kettle of boiling water. Add a level teaspoonful of salt to each half gallon of water used; boil slowly in an uncovered kettle for twenty minutes or until the peas are tender. Rapid boiling hardens the Peas and removes the shell. Cooked below the boiling point they will lose their color and become water soaked. When done, drain, add to them an extra half teaspoonful of salt a saltspoonful of pepper, and to each quart a level tablespoonful of butter. Shake carefully so as not to break the peas, and turn at once into a vegetable dish. Thick sweet cream may be used in the place of butter. GREEN PEAS WITH CREAM SAUCE Boil and drain as directed in preceding recipe; add to them a half pint of cream sauce made by rubbing together one table-spoonful of butter and one of flour; add a half pint of milk and stir until boiling. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, a salt -spoonful of pepper and the peas. Stand over hot water for ten minutes and they are ready to serve. STEWED PEAS Shell and soak the peas in cold water; put them into a saucepan, allowing to each quart of peas a pint of water, a half teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar; cover the kettle and simmer gently for a half hour, or until the peas are tender. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add the water drained from the peas, stir until boiling, and add a saltspoonful of pepper. Turn the peas into a vegetable dish, pour over the sauce, garnish with triangular pieces of toast, and send at once to the table. PEA PATTIES These are usually served as a course or entree at dinner; they may follow the soup in the place of the fish course. Shell sufficient peas to make a pint. Soak them in cold water twenty minutes. Put them into a saucepan with one pint of boiling water, a half teaspoonful of salt and cook in an uncovered kettle for twenty minutes, or until they are tender. While they are cooking make small bread patties, using for each three thin slices of bread. Put these in the oven to toast. When the peas are tender, drain. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add the water in which the peas were cooked, stir until boiling; take from the fire and add the yolks of two eggs beaten with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir over the fire just an instant, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and the peas. Stand over hot water, do not boil or the sauce will curdle. When ready to serve fill each patty to the very top and send at once to the table. Bean Cutter Page 323 An illustration of a bean Cutter. Stewed Peas in Turnip Cups Page 350 An illustration of Stewed Peas in Turnip Cups. Pea Patties Page 350 An illustration of Pea Patties. PEAS, ENGLISH FASHION Cook the peas as directed in the first recipe, adding one sprig. of mint when peas are put over the fire. Drain, remove the mint and season with salt, pepper and butter. PEAS, FRENCH STYLE Shell sufficient peas to make one quart; soak in cold water drain. When ready to cook put them into a saucepan with the leaves from a good-sized head of lettuce cut into shreds and a teaspoonful of granulated sugar. Cover the saucepan and shake over a quick fire until the lettuce is melted. Push them over a moderate fire and simmer until tender. Turn into a vegetable dish and season with salt, pepper and butter, or they may be covered with white or cream sauce. PEAS a la WINDSOR Shell sufficient peas to make a quart; wash them in cold water. Put them into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, a half dozen leaves of mint, a whole onion chopped fine, a half cup of milk and a teaspoonful of sugar. Cover the saucepan and push it to the very back part of the stove to simmer gently for twenty minutes. When done remove the mint leaves and add to the peas the yolks of three eggs beaten with four table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Shake them over the fire for just a moment, being careful not to boil. Turn the peas into a shallow vegetable dish inside of a roll of carefully cooked rice. These are usually served with panned or broiled chicken, Pigeons or squabs. SUGAR PEAS Top and tail the peas, but do not shell them; wash them in cold water, cover with boiling water. Add a teaspoonful of salt and boil in an uncovered saucepan thirty minutes. Drain, saving the water for soup. Season the peas with salt, pepper and butter, or pour over them cream sauce. TO COOK CANNED PEAS Canned peas may be served according to any of the foregoing rules Open the can, turn the contents into a large sieve, put it under the spigot, or pour through them a quantity of cold water, until they are thoroughly washed. To serve plain, heat carefully over hot water; do not add water or they will fall to pieces and remain watery. YOUNG SWEET CORN Sugar or sweet corn is a variety of Zea Mays , used principally in America. It is palatable, contains but little nourishment, that mostly sugar, which is easily lost in the boiling. In fact, if the husks are removed, the sweetness is lost in a night, or if the ears are piled together one on top of the other for a few hours they heat, a slight fermentation takes place, changing the sugar, leaving the corn tasteless. It should be cooked immediately after picking, if possible. To keep it over night do not husk, but spread the ears out on a cool cellar floor or in the bottom of a cave or vault, or in the refrigerator. TO BOIL Husk the corn, remove carefully the silk; throw the ears into a large kettle of boiling water; bring to boiling point quickly and boil five minutes. Remove at once from the water, place on a corn cloth or napkin, throw the corners over to prevent escape of steam, and send to the table. Corn cannot stand after boiling, it loses its color, flavor and becomes watery. CORN BOILED IN THE HUSKS Remove a few of the outer husks leaving the cob covered with two layers of the young light husks. Open these carefully at the top and remove every particle of the silk. Have ready a kettle of boiling water; put in the corn and boil, after the water begins to boil, ten minutes. When done lift with a skimmer and arrange the ears neatly on a corn platter. Do not remove the husks. The husks prevent the sweetness from being drawn out in the water and are quite easily removed at the table. It is rather unusual to give directions how to eat, but there is an art in eating corn. When the whole grains are eaten from the cob, the hulls being indestructible, prevent the digestion of the grain; for this reason many people are obliged to abstain from this palatable and wholesome vegetable. To eat, score each row of grains right through the centre. Then spread the corn on the cob lightly with butter, dust it with salt, and with the teeth press out the centre of the grains, leaving the hulls on the cob. Fresh, carefully cooked corn, eaten in this way, will not produce indigestion. Corn holders are small wooden or silver handles which are pressed into the ends of cobs. There are also wire frames, sold under the name of corn holders. These are rather clumsy, but convenient. TO STEW CORN 1 dozen ears of corn 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1/2 cup of hot milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut each row of grains through the centre and with a dull knife press out the pulp. Put this pulp in a double boiler and cook continuously for thirty minutes, stirring frequently. When ready to serve, add the salt, butter, milk and pepper. Serve hot in an uncovered dish. STEWED CORN AND TOMATOES 6 solid tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of onion juice 6 large ears of corn 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scald, peel the tomatoes, cut them into halves and press out the seeds, then cut them into pieces; put them into a kettle with the onion, salt and pepper, and stew slowly thirty minutes. Husk the corn, score down the centre of each row of grains, press out the pulp; add it to the tomatoes, cook carefully twenty minutes longer, add the butter and serve. Watch carefully after adding the corn, as it will easily scorch. To give variety add four nice green pods of okra, cut in thin slices and cook with the tomatoes. SUCCOTASH Add a pint of carefully cooked young lima bean s to each pint of stewed corn. TO WARM OVER COLD CORN Cold corn left from dinner may be cut carefully from the cob, put into a double boiler with sufficient milk to partly cover; cook until the milk is hot, then add butter, salt and pepper. CORN CHOWDER 1 dozen ears of corn 2 medium-sized onions 6 Bents1 water crackers Yolk of one egg 4 good-sized potatoes I pint of milk 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 pint of boiling water Pare and cut the potatoes into dice; peel and slice the onions; score each row of grains of corn, press out the pulp. Put a layer of the potatoes in the bottom of a saucepan, then a layer of the onions, a layer of corn, a sprinkling of salt and pepper; then another layer of potatoes, and so on until all the materials are used, having the last layer corn. Add the water, cover the kettle and cook slowly over a moderate fire for twenty minutes. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling, and add it to the chowder. Stir the whole carefully without breaking the potatoes. Bring to boiling point, add the crackers, broken into bits, cover the kettle for five minutes. Beat the yolk of the egg with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir it in at the last moment. Serve in a soup tureen. Served as first course in place of soup. Or it may be served as a supper or luncheon dish. CORN FRITTERS 1 dozen ears of corn 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of baking powder 1 saltspoonful of pepper 3 eggs 1 pint of pastry flour Score down the centre of each row of grains on one dozen ears of corn and press out the pulp with a dull knife. Add the milk, salt and pepper. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, add them to the corn mixture. Sift the flour with a rounding teaspoonful of baking powder. Add this to the corn, mix thoroughly and then fold in the well beaten whites of the eggs. Drop by spoonfuls in hot fat at a temperature of 3200 Fahr. When browned on one side, turn and brown the other. Lift with a skimmer, drain on soft paper and send at once to the table. Serve with fricassee of chicken. CORN PUDDING Make precisely the same as corn fritters. Turn into a shallow baking pan and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Serve as a supper dish with chipped creamed beef or smothered beef, or at dinner as an accompaniment to roasted beef. CORN OYSTERS Press out the pulp from a dozen ears of corn as directed in preceding recipe. Add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and four eggs beaten without separating until very light. Cover the bottom of a large baking or saute pan with suet or oil. When very hot, drop in carefully tablespoon-fuls of the mixture; put them down in the shape of an oyster. When browned on one side, turn and brown on the other. Drain on soft paper and send at once to the table. Serve with chilli or tomato sauce in the place of meat. CORN CAKES I tablespoonful of butter I pint of flour I pint of milk I rounding teaspoonful of baking powder 3 eggs I/2 dozen ears of corn Score and press out the corn. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks and add the milk. Sift the baking powder and the flour; add the corn to the milk and egg, then the flour, beat thoroughly; add the butter melted, mix and stir in the well beaten whites. Bake on a griddle the same as ordinary flannel cakes. Serve quickly, with broiled or panned chicken. GREEN CORN GEMS I/2 dozen ears of corn I I/2 cups of flour 2 eggs I/2 pint of milk I rounding teaspoonful of baking powder Score and press out the corn; beat the yolks of the eggs, add the milk, then the corn. Sift the baking powder and flour, stir it into the corn mixture and fold in the well beaten whites. Bake in twelve greased gem pans at once in a quick oven thirty minutes. TO ROAST CORN Remove all but the last layer of husks, open these and take out the "silk," and place the corn in hot wood ashes; it must have at least two inches of hot ashes underneath and one inch on top. Let it remain covered for fifteen minutes. Brush off the ashes and serve at once with salt and pepper. TO COOK CANNED CORN Canned corn may be used in any of the preceding recipes, counting a pint can as representing one dozen ears of fresh corn. It may be served simply heated and seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. TO DRY SWEET CORN Select perfectly fresh corn, score each row of ears down through the centre. Press out the pulp with a dull knife; spread the pulp on wooden, granite or china plates and dry either in the hot sun or a moderate oven. When partly dry it may be transferred to boards. In this way a larger quantity may be put in a given space. When perfectly dry put into jars or tin boxes and keep in a dry, cool place. TO COOK DRY CORN Cover the corn with cold water, soak it over night; next day cook it in the water in which it was soaked until perfectly tender, about a half hour. Season with cream, salt and pepper. TO HULL CORN I pint of clear sifted wood ashes 2 quarts of white corn 2 quarts of cold soft water Put the wood ashes and the water into a porcelain-lined kettle; boil fifteen minutes and stand aside to cool. When cold drain off carefully the clear water; test the water by rubbing it between the thumb and finger; if it feels slippery add sufficient cold water to just cover the corn. Wash out the kettle until perfectly free from ashes; put in the corn and boil continuously until the hulls begin to crack; then with a skimmer dip out the corn, throw it into a pan of cold water. Take a little at a time with the skimmer, put it in a coarse towel, cover with the other end of the towel and rub quickly until all the hulls are removed. Now wash the corn through three or four cold waters; continue the washing until the corn is free from the lye. TO COOK HULLED CORN Put the corn, hulled according to the preceding recipe, into a kettle of cold water, boil slowly until tender, about four hours. Drain; add a quarter of a pound of butter, two tablespoonfuls of salt, a half teaspoonful of pepper. Stir until very hot, and it is ready to serve. The butter may be omitted and a half pint of cream added. BEETS ( Beta vulgaris , Linn.) The ordinary beet root contains almost as much sugar as the white sugar beet that is grown for the purpose of making sugar. When young and tender, red beets are easily cooked, palatable and fairly digestible. For winter use it is far better to can young beets than to attempt to cook the old ones. They are dense and difficult of digestion even when cooked for hours, Beets are used as succulent vegetables as an accompaniment to salt or fresh beef, boiled tongue, or they may be used as a garnish to potato salad; or cold, slightly pickled, as an accom-paniment to cold meats. Beets are digested in the small intes-tines. The tops of young beets are boiled and served as greens. While they are without nourishment, they give variety to a spring diet, are palatable and good waste food. COMPOSITION OF FULL GROWN RED BEETS (Church) Water ....................... 82.2 Albuminoids .................... 0.4 Extractives, including amides... I.0 Sugar........................ I0.0 Pectose ....................... 2.4 Fat ..................... 0.I Cellulose .......... 3.0 Mineral matter ............ 0.9 BOILED BEETS Wash carefully, do not cut or scrape. If the skin is broken before cooking, the coloring matter, which is soluble in water, will be drawn out, leaving the beet tasteless and unsightly. Cook slowly in boiling water for one hour; when done drain. remove the skins and cut the beets into thin slices. Dust them lightly with salt and pepper; dish, put in the centre a tablespoon-ful of butter and send at once to the table. Or serve with beet sauce made by rubbing together one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add a half pint of boiling water, the juice of one lemon, one-half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Add the beets; stand over hot water for fifteen minutes or until the juice is colored, and serve at once. Left-over beets may be covered with vinegar and put aside to serve with salads or used as a garnish to cold meats. STEWED BEETS Peel the young beets; cut them in quarter inch cubes; put them into a stewing pan, cover them with boiling water, allowing a pint of these blocks to one pint of boiling water; cover and stew slowly for three-quarters of an hour; add to them a level teaspoonful of cornstarch moistened in a half cup of cold water; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and one rounding tablespoonful of butter; boil up once and send them to the table. These are exceedingly nice to serve at a pink lunch or dinner. BEETS WITH CREAM SAUCE For this dish, select sweet, white beets and boil as directed in the first recipe, without breaking the skin. When the beets are done, rub off the skins and cut them into dice. Turn them at once into a vegetable dish, cover with cream sauce and send to the table. TO COOK CANNED BEETS Heat over hot water and serve the same as young fresh beets. TO PICKLE BEETS I dozen new beets I teaspoonful of whole mace I quart of vinegar I teaspoonful of ginger 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish Boil the beets without breaking the skin; when done, if small, leave them whole; if large cut them into slices, and put into glass jars. Heat the vinegar and spices in a porcelain-lined kettle; take from the fire, strain and add the horseradish and pour, while hot, over the beets. Cover and stand in a cool place. They are ready to use in twelve hours and will keep any length of time; or cover left-over beets with plain, cold vinegar. CAROB BEAN ( Ceratonia siliqua , Linn.) The carob, or locust bean, is also called St. John's bread. The pod as well as the bean is used, and in countries where they are grown form an important article of diet for man and cattle. In this country, however, they are principally used as a sweetmeat by school children. While sugar is present in large quantities, they also contain a goodly amount of nitrogen. CAROB SOUFFLE I/4 pound of carob beans I/2 pint of soft bread crumbs 4 eggs Wash the pods, break them into inch lengths; cover with cold water and soak over night. Next day cook them in the same water slowly for one and a half hours, until perfectly tender. Then chop very fine and press through a colander. Add the bread crumbs, mix, add the yolks of the eggs, stir over the fire until smoking hot; fold in the well beaten whites : turn into a baking dish and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve with curry of chicken. Pass with it a dish of carefully boiled rice. MASHED CAROB OR CAROB JAM Wash and soak one pound of beans in cold water over night; next morning cook in the same water for one and a half to two hours. Then press them through a colander, or put them through the meat grinder. Return this mixture to the fire, add a teaspoonful of ground ginger, the juice of a lemon and cook slowly fifteen minutes longer. Serve as an accompani-ment to game, roasted hare, or curried vegetables. A GROUP OF GREEN OR SUCCULENT VEGETABLES A large group of vegetables, composed principally of water and mineral salts, of which the following are examples: Artichokes] ( Globe Artichokes] (Jerusalem Artichokes] { Cardoon Asparagus Broccoli Brussels sprouts Cabbage{white Cabbage {Red Carrots Cauliflower Celeriac Celery Collards Cucumbers Dandelions Dock shoots Egg plant Gherkin Horseradish Kale Kohl-rabi Martynia Okra Onions Peppers Radishes Ruta-baga Savoy Scullions Spinach. Summer squash Swiss chard Tomatoes Vegetable marrow The green or so-called succulent vegetables include many parts of plants, as shoots, leaves, stalks, stems and roots, and are valuable articles of food, not on account of the nutriment they contain, but for their succulent nature, the mineral salts they yield, and the flavor and variety they give to the daily bill of fare. The true succulent vegetables, as a rule, do not contain nitro-genous matter of the sort that aids in the building of the tissues and flesh. Green vegetables are bulk foods, which aid in keep-ing up the natural peristaltic movement of the intestines. For this reason also they should be served at least once a day, each of the three hundred and sixty-five days of the year. Many of these green vegetables contain materials physiologically suited to our needs; better by far take iron as we find it in many of the ordinary green vegetables, than from a bottle. Persons who cut from their diet all succulent vegetables are continuously taking pills to bring about the necessary natural conditions which would exist by the judicial and regular use of green vegetables. The object of cooking non-starchy vegetables is to soften the fibre and to render them more easy of digestion. Green vege-tables being very succulent easily part with their salts, and unless well cooked are unsightly as well as unpalatable, common salt (chloride of sodium) does not in any way replace the mineral matter soaked and boiled from these vegetables. The common turnip, an admirable succulent vegetable, sightly, palatable and appetising if daintily cooked is, nine times out of ten, ruined in the cooking. Raw cabbage is digested in two hours and a half; after it passes through the hands of the ordi-nary cook it requires five hours, which certainly upsets the true definition of cooking. Besides making the cabbage difficult of digestion, careless cooking fills the house with an odor which is not only unpleasant but nauseating. The water is drained down the sink and a coarse unsightly dish without food value is the result. Vegetables with an odor, as cabbage and onions, should always be put over to cook in boiling salted water and cooked in an uncovered vessel. Green vegetables lend themselves most easily to combinations of milk for the making of the so-called cream soups. The milk containing the needed nourishment is made palatable by the flavor of a few left-over vegetables. These soups are nitrogen-ous, easy of digestion and with whole wheat bread and butter form an admirable luncheon or supper dish for children. Save even a tablespoonful of vegetables that may be left from a meal; to-morrow add them to the soup; or mash and use them as flavoring to the meat or fish sauces. Among the best cream soups are potato, cream of corn, cream of pea, cream of beet and tomato. Spinach, kale or onions may be saved and added to cream sauces for fish and poultry. TABLE OF ANALYSIS OF GREEN VEGETABLES IN COMMON USE An illustration of a Table of Analysis of Green Vegetables. GLOBE OR FRENCH ARTICHOKES The artichoke (Cynara Scolymus, Linn.) a plant of the natural order of the Composite. The fleshy parts of the scales known as "choke," with prickly leaves around, constitute the portion used as food. In appearance these resemble the green cone of the pine tree, or a huge thistle. TO BOIL ARTICHOKES Strip off the outside leaves, neatly trim the base, then with a sharp knife cut the tops of the leaves down within two inches of the base, with a handle of a spoon scoop out the flowery por-tion in the centre. Tie the artichoke into a compact form with a strong string. Have ready a kettle of boiling water to which you have added two tablespoonfuls of salt and a tablespoonful of powdered charcoal, tied in a piece of cheesecloth. Put in the artichokes, boil rapidly for five minutes. then reduce the water to just below the boiling point; cook for about an hour or until the leaves are tender. Lift the artichokes carefully with a skimmer; turn them upside down to drain. To serve arrange them in circles on a heated dish and pass with them sauce Hol-landaise. To eat, strip off the leaves, hold them with the fingers at the tip of the leaf; dip the soft portion in the sauce, and with the teeth sort of strip off the fleshy part. The centre of the leaf is tough, the outside tender; the "choke" may be eaten with a fork. STUFFED ARTICHOKES 6 artichokes I/2 pint of cold cooked chicken I teaspoonful of salt I teaspoonful of onion juice 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil I pint of strained tomato stock Prepare the artichokes as in preceding recipe. Boil them thirty minutes and drain. Put into a bowl finely chopped cold cooked chicken or mutton, add the salt, onion juice and pepper. Pour over the melted butter; mix and stuff this into the artichokes. Put the oil in a frying pan and when hot put in the artichokes; turn them carefully until they are slightly browned all over the outside. Stand them in baking pan, add the strained tomato or stock, one-half teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of butter and a slice of onion. Bake slowly one hour, basting once or twice over the outside of the artichokes. When ready to serve remove the strings, arrange them in circles on a chop dish and strain over the sauce from the pan. In the centre of the dish place a large crouton, that has been dipped in egg and quickly fried. Place in the centre of the crouton a hatlet skewer gar-nished with mushrooms. Pine nuts or chopped almonds may be used in the place of meat. BAKED ARTICHOKES Prepare, boil and drain the artichokes; remove the strings. Wrap each with a thin slice of bacon and replace the string. Stand the artichokes in a baking pan, putting a thin slice of onion over the top of each. Put into the pan two tablespoonfuls of butter, two chopped shallots, six fresh mushrooms cut into quarters, a tablespoonful of parsley, and a half pint of stock; cover the pan and bake for thirty minutes, basting once or twice. Then remove the cover and bake the artichokes quickly for thirty minutes longer. When done arrange the artichokes on a round plate, removing the string and bacon. Put a tablespoon-ful of sauce Hollandaise in the centre of each and send at once to the table. CHOKES OR BOTTOMS In the American market artichokes are usually purchased canned; the leaves are removed, and the bottoms or "chokes" only are used. These may be heated over boiling water and served with sauce Hollandaise; or used as a foundation for macedoine, served with either sauce Hollandaise or brown sauce. They are also frequently served under a mold of spinach. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES ( Helianthus tuberosus , Linn.) These are the tubers of the so-called Italian sunflower, which grows wild and abundantly in many parts of the United States and Canada. They do not contain starch and but a trace of sugar; are fairly rich in carbo-hydrates of the gum series. They also contain inulin. Being free from starch they may be eaten uncooked; if properly cooked, however, they retain their crisp and tender conditions and are exceedingly palatable. They form one of the most important vegetables for diabetic patients. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH CREAM SAUCE Scrape the artichokes and throw them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. When ready to cook, cut in slices a half inch thick; put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water and cook gently for about twenty minutes or until the artichokes can be easily pierced with a fork; drain, turn them at once in a heated dish and cover them with cream sauce. If over cooked they lose their crispness and become heavy. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH BROWN SAUCE I dozen artichokes I teaspoonful of salt I tablespoonful of butter I teaspoonful of onion juice I saltspoonful of pepper I tablespoonful of flour I/2 tablespoonful of stock I teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet A grating of nutmeg Pare the artichokes, throw them into cold water; when ready to cook cut into cubes of a half inch, throw them into a kettle of boiling water and cook for twenty minutes; drain. Put the butter in a saucepan; mix and add the stock, stir until boiling; add the salt, kitchen bouquet, and pepper; add the artichokes; stand over hot water for ten minutes, add the onion juice and nutmeg, and send at once to the table. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES a la VINAIGRETTE Peel the artichokes and throw them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. When ready to serve cut them into very thin slices, using a silver knife; arrange them on lettuce leaves, pour over the sauce vinaigrette, and send at once to the table. SAUCE I saltspoonful of salt I teaspoonful of water I tablespoonful of vinegar 3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil I/2 teaspoonful of onion juice Dash of cayenne Dissolve the salt in the water, add all the other ingredients and beat well for five minutes. PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Pare the artichokes, throw them at once into cold water; then put them whole into a kettle of boiling water and cook for thirty minutes. Strain and arrange them neatly in glass jars; to each jar allow a half pint of vinegar, one bay leaf, a good-sized onion, sliced, four whole cloves, and a good-sized blade of mace. Put the vinegar into a porcelain or granite kettle, add all the seasoning and bring to boiling point and pour over the arti-chokes; add to each jar a tablespoonful of grated horseradish and a teaspoonful of mustard seed; screw on the tops and stand away to cool. This will keep for about four weeks and will be ready for use in two days. Serve with cold meat or as a garnish to a lettuce salad. ASPARAGUS ( Asparagus officinalis , Linn.) Asparagus belongs to the lily family. The plant is cultivated for the early shoots, which are in great favor both as a vegetable served hot, and cold as a salad. Asparagus contains an alkaloid known as asparagin, and while it has a decided action upon the kidneys its true merits or dements are not known. BOILED ASPARAGUS Trim and wash thoroughly a bundle of asparagus; cut from the butt ends the woody, hardportion, then pare off the outside skin nearly up to the head; tie again into smaller bundles, put these perfectly straight into a kettle of boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, boil for thirty minutes. While the asparagus is boiling, rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour and toast four slices of bread. Trim off the crusts and cut the slices into halves; arrange them neatly on a heated platter; lift the asparagus and put it to drain on a flat plate. Add to the teaspoonful of salt, boil for thirty minutes. While the asparagus was boiled; stir constantly until boiling; add a half teaspoonful of salt, saltspoonful of pepper and the juice of half a lemon. Now stir in carefully another tablespoonful of butter, cut into bits. Arrange the asparagus crosswise of the platter on the toast, heads all one way; strain over the sauce and send at once to the table. ASPARAGUS TIPS I bundle of asparagus 2 tablespoonfuls of butter I teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Cut the tips, in two inch lengths, from the asparagus. Wash them and cut each piece into three. Cover with boiling water, add the salt, and boil a half hour. Drain; add butter and pepper, and serve with squabs or broiled chicken. Save the remaining asparagus for soup. STEWED ASPARAGUS Wash, peel and cut into inch lengths one bundle of asparagus. Put these into a saucepan and cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and boil thirty minutes. Drain in a colander; when thoroughly drained return them to the kettle; dust over the asparagus one tablespoonful of flour, shake the kettle so that each piece will receive a portion of the flour, but not one piece must be pasty. Pour over one-half pint of cream, or add a tablespoonful of butter and a half pint of milk; season with a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; bring care-fully to boiling point, turn in a heated vegetable dish and send at once to the table. This dish may be garnished over the top with croutons, or around the edge with triangular pieces of toast. ASPARAGUS IN A BREAD BOAT I bundle of asparagus I pint of milk I tablespoonful of butter I stale loaf of Vienna bread Yolks of four eggs I level teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Wash the asparagus and cut into lengths of half an inch, using the very tender portion only; save the butts for soup. Throw the tender parts into boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt and boil twenty minutes; drain in a colander. Whittle the crust off the bread, and cut the loaf the shape of a boat, hollowing out the centre sufficiently large to hold the asparagus; brush it over quickly with melted butter and brown in the oven. Put the milk into a double boiler; beat the yolks of the eggs, add to them slowly the hot milk, return them to the boiler and cook just a moment until slightly thick; take from the fire and add, cut into pieces, the butter, and the salt and pepper; put the aspara-gus into the boat and pour over the sauce; arrange it on a narrow platter and send at once to the table. To serve, cut through the boat, helping a slice of the boat with the asparagus and sauce. ASPARAGUS a la HOLLANDAISE Wash and tie into bundles and boil the asparagus; when done drain, put on a platter and stand aside to cool. Serve very cold and pass with it hot sauce Hollandaise. To eat, lift each piece by the butt, with the fingers, dip the head in the sauce and lift it to the mouth. Eat only the tender portion. Asparagus may also be served plain boiled and cold with French dressing. BREADED ASPARAGUS 1 bundle of asparagus 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of bread crumbs 4 eggs Trim and boil the asparagus for twenty minutes; hardboil the eggs, remove the shells and chop them fine. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling and add the salt and pepper. Mix the eggs with the sauce. Cut the asparagus into lengths of one inch, put a layer of asparagus in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of sauce, then a sprinkling of bread crumbs, and so continue, having the last layer of crumbs. Bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, about twenty minutes. This may be served as a supper dish to take the place of meat and vegetables, or as a second course at lunch or dinner. Left-over boiled asparagus may be used with French dressing as a salad. CABBAGE TRIBE Under this heading will be considered all the varieties of the single species (Brassica oleracea, Linn.) a most variable plant belonging to the Mustard Family. By selection and cultivation the whole cabbage tribe has been evolved from one plant. All of these plants contain a volatile oil, rich in hydrogen and sulphur, which is driven off by careless cooking. The odor is unpleasant and particularly penetrating; in fact, badly cooked cabbage may be traced by this odor to the house a square away. Such cabbage is not only difficult of digestion but has lost its color and flavor, and is really unfit for food. Carefully boiled cabbage is delicate, quite easy of digestion, and is white and sightly. Plants belonging to this family, like all green vegetables, should be cooked in salted boiling water in an uncovered vessel. HEAD CABBAGE In this plant the leaves have by cultivation been crowded into a large dense head. Cabbage is a waste food, principally digested in the intes- tines, more easily digested raw than boiled; if carefully cooked in salted water it is, however, quite as readily digested as when raw. Finely shredded, with French dressing, it makes an admirable dinner salad. The head of a "winter" cabbage being very dense, excludes the sun and the cabbage is said to be bleached and tender. BOILED CABBAGE Trim off the outside leaves, cut the cabbage into halves and if the head is large, again into quarters. Soak in cold water for one hour; do not add salt; then shake the cabbage and put it into a kettle of boiling water, being careful to have sufficient water to thoroughly cover the cabbage; add a teaspoonful of salt, bring to boiling point and boil slowly until the cabbage is tender and perfectly white, about three-quarters of an hour. If the head is large and cut only into halves, one to one and a quarter hours will be required to make it tender; be very careful that the cabbage does not lose its color; as soon as it becomes slightly pink it is indigestible and never fit for food. When done drain carefully and serve as a garnish to boiled beef. Or cover with cream sauce and use as a vegetable. LADIES' CABBAGE Cut a small compact head of cabbage into eighths; throw it into cold water for one hour. Shake, put into a kettle and cover with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, bring to boiling point and cook uncovered for thirty minutes. Lift each piece carefully with a skimmer; when drained arrange in circular form on a round plate. Run together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour; add a pint of milk; stir until boiling, add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; strain this carefully over the cabbage and send at once to the table. STEWED CABBAGE Chop rather fine sufficient cabbage to make two quarts; put this into a stewing pan with sufficient boiling water to cover; add a teaspoonful of salt, bring to boiling point and boil slowly uncov- ered for twenty minutes; drain in a colander; when perfectly dry turn it back into the saucepan; dust over, stirring constantly, one rounding tablespoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, saltspoonful of pepper; stir this over the fire for a moment and then add a half cup of milk. If you have cream omit the butter and add a half cup of cream. When this reaches the boiling point stand over hot water for ten minutes and serve. This is one of the most delicious of all vegetables. SCALLOPED CABBAGE Boil the cabbage as directed in preceding recipe. Make a half pint of cream sauce. Spread a layer of cabbage in the bottom of a baking dish, cover it with a layer of cream sauce and a goodly sprinkling of chopped cheese, about two tablespoonfuls; then another layer of cabbage, and so continue until the materials are used, having the last layer cheese. Over the top of this sprinkle four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. CABBAGE,RUSSIAN FASHION Cut a head of cabbage into halves and shave it down as you would for cold slaw. Soak it in cold water for a half hour, drain and press dry. Then throw it in a goodly amount of salted, boiling water and boil in an uncovered kettle for fifteen minutes; drain perfectly dry. Return the cabbage to the kettle, add a half pint of cream, a half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Push the kettle on the back part of the stove where it will simmer gently for ten minutes. Add a tablespoonful of butter; mix gently and serve at once. CABBAGE au GRATIN 1 small head of cabbage 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 4 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese 2 eggs Wash, chop and soak the cabbage in cold water; put into boiling - salted water and boil slowly for five minutes; drain. While this is boiling make a cream sauce from the butter, flour, milk salt and pepper; add chopped or grated cheese; take from the fire add the yolks of the eggs that have been carefully boiled for fifteen minutes and press through a sieve; chop the whites very fine and add them also. Put a layer of this in the bottom of the baking dish; then a layer of cabbage, and so continue until the materials are used, having the last layer sauce. Cover with bread crumbs, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. This takes the place of both meat and vegetables, and makes a nice dish for a winter country supper. CABBAGE ROLLS 1 head of cabbage 1 pint of cooked meat 1 onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Yolks of two eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 lemon Select a soft, loose head of cabbage, or a head of savoy; throw into boiling water; cover and stand until the leaves are wilted; Drain carefully, remove the leaves and cut out the heavy midrib. Have ready cold meat chopped fine; add the salt, pepper and onion; put a cabbage leaf down on a board, put a table-spoonful of the mixture in the centre; fold in the sides of the leaf and roll it up. Put it down into the saucepan, placing it in a position to prevent the unrolling. Make another roll and put it closely by the side of the first one, and so continue until you have the desired quantity. Squeeze over the top the juice of the lemon or a tablespoonful of vinegar, and add sufficient boiling water to cover. Stand over a moderate fire and cook slowly for twenty minutes. Drain carefully and turn out the rolls on a platter. Rub together the butter and flour, add the water, which should measure now one pint, in which the rolls were cooked; stir until boiling; take from the fire; add the yolks of the eggs slightly beaten; strain this over the rolls and send at once to the table. Served with rice balls this dish will take the place of meat and vegetables. By slightly changing the recipe one may make a dozen different dishes; for instance, add a few chopped nuts to the meat; or use a cup of chopped meat and a cup of boiled rice; season with curry. Or mix the meat with bread crumbs, and instead of using the water in which the rolls are boiled for the sauce, serve with tomato sauce. Served as the vegetable course at a dinner or as the main course at the family lunch or as a supper dish, these are good, wholesome and sightly. GERMAN SOUR CABBAGE 2 quarts of cabbage 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1/2 cup of vinegar 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop sufficient cabbage to make two quarts; throw into a kettle of boiling salted water; cook for twenty minutes and drain. Return to the saucepan, add the butter and the vinegar; cook and stir for fifteen minutes; add the salt and pepper and send at once to the table. CABBAGE a la FLAMANDE 1 head of cabbage 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of cloves 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 onion This is usually made from red or purple cabbage. Take off the outside leaves and shave the head as for cold slaw; cover with boiling water; cook slowly fifteen minutes; drain in a colander and chop fine. Return this to the saucepan, add the butter, the grated onion, the ground cloves, salt and pepper; cover and simmer on the back part of the stove for three-quarters of an hour, stirring occasionally. Add an extra tablespoonful of butter and serve at once. CABBAGE, GERMAN FASHION 2 heads of cabbage 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Trim the outside leaves from two small solid heads of cabbage; cut the heads into halves; place the flat sides on a table and cut the cabbage down into slices of a half inch thick; put the oil into a large frying pan; when hot put in the slices of cabbage; when cooked slightly on one side, turn and cook quickly on the other; sprinkle over the pepper and salt, add the vinegar, the onion chopped fine; cover the pan and draw to the back part of the stove where it will simmer for one hour. Take care not to break the cabbage. Serve at once on a hot dish. COLD SLAW I head of cabbage l/2 cup of milk Yolks of two eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of chopped celery 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch Cut a hard head of cabbage into halves; shred very fine sufficient to make one quart; put this into a pan, cover with cold water and soak for one hour. While this is soaking heat the milk in a double boiler; add the cornstarch mixed in a little cold milk; stir until thick; add the yolks of the eggs; cook a moment, take from the fire, add the salt and pepper; add the chopped onion, celery and a bay leaf to the vinegar; boil rapidly until reduced to one-half; strain this into the sauce; add slowly the butter and stand aside to cool. When ready to serve drain the cabbage, throw it on a dry towel, cover with the ends and rub and twist it slightly until dry; then mix it with the dressing and send at once to the table. Garnish with capers, or chopped olives. This will take the place of salad at dinner. SOUR CREAM SLAW 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 2 eggs 1/2 cup of sour cream 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut and soak the cabbage as in preceding recipe. Put the vinegar into a saucepan, bringing to boiling point; beat the eggs without separating until light; add the thick sour cream; add this to the vinegar, add the butter and stir until the mixture thickens; take from the fire, add the salt and pepper. Drain the cabbage, shake it dry; cover with the hot sauce, mix and stand aside to cool. Serve cold. TO MAKE SAUERKRAUT Select large hard white heads of cabbage; shred them very fine. Line the bottom and sides of a clean keg or barrel with the outside cabbage leaves. Put in the bottom a layer of shredded cabbage three inches deep, sprinkle over four ounces of salt, and with a wooden pestle pound it down. Put in another layer of cabbage and four ounces of salt, and so continue until the keg is full; put on the top a round board about two inches smaller than the keg, and on this a heavy weight. A good sized stone carefully washed and scrubbed will answer. Allow this to stand in a warm place to ferment. When fermentation begins, the cabbage sinks and the liquid will come to the surface; skim off the scum; cover the top of the keg and put it in a cool, dry cellar. The sauerkraut will be ready to use in about two weeks; each time you remove the lid, be careful to replace it. TO COOK SAUERKRAUT Wash the sauerkraut thoroughly through several waters; throw it into a kettle of boiling water; cook slowly uncovered until it is tender, about one hour. Drain and serve as a garnish to boiled corned beef or salt pork. Or serve with roasted goose. SAUERKRAUT SLAW Wash the sauerkraut through several cold waters; soak one hour in ice water. Drain and serve with French dressing, seasoned with onion juice or garlic. RED CABBAGE Red cabbage forms into hard heads the same as white cabbage; it is not, however, so delicate or valuable, as the coloring matter fades in the cooking. It is used principally for pickling, although the Germans make it into one or two very palatable dishes. RED CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE 1 good-sized head of cabbage 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion 1/2 pint of claret 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar Trim and soak the head in cold water for one hour. Cut it into halves, then into shreds, removing the core. Put the butter into a saucepan, when hot add the onion and cook slowly until brown, or better until the onion is soft. Then add the cabbage, cover the saucepan and let it stand on the back part of the stove for twenty minutes. Add the salt and pepper and cook again for ten minutes, or until the cabbage is tender. This slow cooking will steam the cabbage, removing the necessity of adding water. Add the vinegar and claret, and cook rapidly for fifteen minutes, stirring or tossing the cabbage with a fork or wooden spoon. Serve at once with roasted goose, duck or boiled beef. RED CABBAGE, DUTCH FASHION 1 good-sized head of red cabbage 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 4 good-sized tart apples 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Trim the cabbage and soak it in cold water for one hour; then cut into halves and shred it fine. Throw it into a good-sized kettle half filled with boiling water, boil rapidly uncovered for five minutes, and drain. Put the butter and onion into a saucepan, cook slowly for a few minutes; add the cabbage and the apples, peeled, cored and sliced. Add the salt and pepper, and cook in an uncovered saucepan for thirty minutes, tossing the cabbage three or four times. Add a half cup of good, thick cream and turn it into a heated vegetable dish. Serve with roasted or boiled salt pork or corned beef. SAVOY Savoy ( Borecole ), a variety of common cabbage with a loose head composed of very curly or wrinkled leaves. It is rather more delicate than the ordinary cabbage and is essentially a fall or early winter cabbage. After the head is scalded and opened it looks very much like a huge rose; the leaves never become white or bleached. On account of the looseness of the head it is usually served stuffed with other materials. The separate leaves are used with Egyptian rolls, a little roll of lentils and rice. CABBAGE FINGERS 1 head of savoy 1/2 pint of boiled lentils 1 small onion 1/2 cup of chopped pecans 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of cold boiled rice 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 lemon Wash the savoy through several cold waters, then separate the leaves. Pour over boiling water, cover the bowl and stand away from the fire for fifteen minutes or until the leaves are softened; drain and cut out the heavy midribs. Mix all the other ingredients, adding the onion, grated. Put a tablespoon-ful of this mixture into the centre of a loaf, fold in the sides and then roll it up; form a roll about three inches long and the size of the finger. Put these down carefully into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add the lemon juice, and, if you have it, four cloves of garlic split into halves. Cook in uncovered saucepan for thirty minutes. Drain carefully, saving the water in which they were boiled. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add the water, bring to a boil, and pour carefully into the well beaten yolks of four eggs. Cook over hot water until the consistency of mayonnaise dressing. There should be not more than one and a half cups of water. Take from the fire, add a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar and a half teaspoonful of salt. Dish the rolls in the centre of a deep dish; strain over the sauce and send them at once to the table. Serve these with any delicate meat, or they may take the place of meat for luncheon or supper, or they may be served as an entree at dinner. If they are packed to cook in a small round saucepan, and the water carefully drained away, they will retain the shape of the vessel, and if carefully turned out will keep this form. Pour the sauce around, and garnish the edge with triangular pieces of toast. STUFFED SAVOY 1 good-sized head of savoy 1/2 pint of cold boiled rice 1/2 pint of finely chopped cooked meat 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of grated onion 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg Wash the savoy through several cold waters, put in a bowl, cover with boiling water, cover the bowl and stand aside for three-quarters of an hour until the head is softened to the very centre. Then pull the leaves apart gently without breaking. It must be perfectly "opened," looking like a huge rose. Mix all the other ingredients; put a teaspoonful in the centre, fold over the centre leaves, around these put a layer of the mixture, fold over the next row of leaves, and so continue until you have a thin layer of stuffing between each row of leaves. Tie the head compactly in a piece of cheesecloth, put it in salted, boiling water in an uncovered vessel and boil one hour. Lift the cloth, drain the cabbage carefully, turn it into a round dish and cover with white or cream sauce; dust with chopped parsley. Serve as the main dish at a family dinner or lunch, or it may be served as an entree at dinner. A dish of this kind is preferable served alone. CAULIFLOWER Cauliflower and broccoli have all the nutritious matter concentrated in a short, compact bunch of flowers formed into a soft head. Broccoli is both white and purple, but the name is usually applied to the loose heads of cauliflower. Broccoli is more hardy than cauliflower and is said to be rather more easily digested. Both may be prepared and served according to the same rules. Broccoli with chicken stock is frequently made into mock bisque soup. The brilliant pink makes it a desirable soup for pink luncheons or dinners. Both cauliflower and broccoli are more delicate and easily digested than common cabbage. BOILED CAULIFLOWER Trim off the outside leaves, throw the head in cold water and soak for a half hour; tie in a square of cheesecloth, drop it stem side down into a large kettle of boiling salted water; boil slowly uncovered for twenty or thirty minutes, according to the size of the head. Be very careful not to overcook the cauliflower, as it will become watersoaked and lose its flavor and color. When done lift carefully and drain; dish and pour over either cream sauce, sauce Hollandaise, or English drawn butter. Cauliflower may be simply boiled, garnished with parsley or capers, and served cold with French dressing. CAULIFLOWER au GRATIN Boil the cauliflower according to the preceding recipe; cut it apart carefully into the little flowerets; arrange these neatly in a baking dish, pour over cream sauce, dust thickly with bread crumbs and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER 1 head of cauliflower 1 tablespoonful of butter Yolks of three eggs 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 pint of milk or stock 1 pint of stale bread crumbs 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Trim, soak, and boil the cauliflower; drain, and separate it into flowerets. Toast four slices of bread, trim and arrange them neatly on a heated platter; put on top the cauliflower. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock or milk and stir until boiling. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, the nutmeg and onion; pour over the cauliflower and serve at once. BAKED CAULIFLOWER Boil the cauliflower as directed in preceding recipe, cooking only fifteen minutes. When done drain carefully; separate the head into little flowerets, arrange them in a baking dish, sprinkle over four tablespoonfuls of Parmesan or any grated cheese, cover with a half pint of cream sauce, dust thickly with bread crumbs and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked. CAULIFLOWER, HUNGARIAN FASHION Boil the cauliflower as directed in preceding recipe. Dish it in a round, shallow vegetable dish. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a shallow frying pan, add a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion and four tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs.Cook quickly, stirring all the while until the materials are thoroughly browned. Spread this over the top of the cauliflower and send at once to the table. KALE Kale is distinguished from savoy by the abundance of chlorophyll, the green coloring matter of the leaves, and the short stem from which the leaves spring. Kale is the least nutritious of all the cabbage tribe. It contains very little vegetable acid and flavoring substance; it forms, however, one of the most agreeable and best of the spring greens. We have two varie-lies, blue and green; both are prepared precisely the same. Kale is sold in New York markets under the name of " sprouts. " This is rather misleading, as this term is applied in general to Brussels sprouts. BOILED KALE Wash carefully one-half peck of kale; pick the leaves from the stalks, wash them again, shake them up and down in the water rather than drain the water from them. The leaves are very liable to contain sand, which, being heavy, falls to the bottom of the pan. After the kale is drained and cleaned, throw into a large kettle; add a pint of boiling water; sprinkle over a tea-spoonful of salt, cover the kettle; stand over a moderate fire where the kale will steam slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Stir three or four times. Drain in a colander, and when dry chop fine; return to the saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of cream, one tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; stir constantly over the fire until the mixture is hot. Turn the mixture into a small bowl and pack it down simply to shape it. Turn out carefully on a round, heated dish. Garnish with triangular pieces of toast and hard boiled eggs. Kale may also be boiled with salt pork or corned beef and served as a garnish to the same, or it may be chopped fine and served cold with French dressing garnished with hard boiled eggs. KALE, ASPARAGUS FASHION Wash the leaves and tie them into bundles; throw them into boiling salted water and boil rapidly in an uncovered kettle for a half hour. Lift each bunch and drain it carefully; arrange them neatly on a platter, the bottom of which has been covered with toasted bread. Remove the strings from the bundles without breaking them. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, add a half pint of the water in which the kale was boiled, stir until boiling; take from the fire, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and the juice of half a lemon; then add slowly another tablespoonful of butter. Strain this over the kale and send at once to the table. Serve with roasted beef or veal, pork, duck or goose. BRUSSELS SPROUTS These are composed of numerous small heads growing in the axils of the leaves on a long stem below the top leaves, and are perhaps the most delicate of all the cabbage tribe; in fact, it has been said that Brussels sprouts are cabbages with a college education. To be perfect they should not be larger than an English walnut. TO BOIL SPROUTS Trim neatly and throw them into cold water to soak for one hour; put them in salted boiling water and cook just below the boiling point, in an uncovered vessel, until tender, about thirty minutes. If they lose their color and turn a sort of yellowish green they have been cooked too long. They must be a brilliant green, tender and delicate. When done drain them in a colander, turn in a heated dish, cover with cream sauce, sauce Hollandaise or plain melted butter. Serve with roasted beef, turkey, chicken, duck or goose. BRUSSELS SPROUTS, WITH CREAM 1 quart of sprouts 1/2 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour I teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Trim and wash the sprouts in cold water; throw into a kettle of boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt and cook slowly uncovered for thirty minutes; drain in a colander and while they are draining make a cream sauce from butter, flour and milk; add a half teaspoonful of salt and the pepper. Dish the sprouts, pour over the cream sauce and send at once to the table. SPROUTS WITH MELTED BUTTER Wash and cook the sprouts according to the preceding recipe; turn into a heated dish and pour over two tablespoonfuls of carefully melted butter. COLLARDS Collards are a cabbage in which the fleshy leaves do not form a head, but are scattered on a long stem. This variety of cabbage is grown principally in the southern part of the United States. Collards may be cooked and served according to the rules for cooking spinach or kale. KOHL-RABI Kohl-rabi, or turnip cabbage, as it is sometimes called, stores nourishment just above the ground in a turnip -like swelling of the stem from which the leaves spring. Being free from starch it may be pared, sliced and served raw in place of radishes. Or it may be cooked and served according to the rules for cooking turnips. It is slightly more nutritious than the common white turnips. Plain boiled with cream sauce it gives a delightful, succulent fall vegetable. It is also nice in salad. KOHL-RABI WITH SAUCE HOLLANDAISE Remove the leaves and cut a thick paring from the outside, removing all the woody portion. Cut the flesh into slices a half inch thick. Throw them into boiling, salted water, boil rapidly in an uncovered vessel for thirty minutes. Drain, turn into a heated vegetable dish and cover with sauce Hollandaise. Kohl-rabi is also palatable boiled and served with cream sauce. CARDOON ( Cynara Cardunculus , Linn.) This plant resembles the artichoke; the edible portion, however, consists of the thick, fleshy leaf stalks and midribs bleached. The bleaching is done by tying up the leaves, wrapping all but the top to exclude the sun. These are boiled in salted water and served the same as asparagus, with cream sauce or sauce Hollandaise. The term "Chard" is applied to the leaf stalks and midrib of the globe artichoke, which are tied and bleached in the same manner as cardoons. These are also boiled and served with sauce Hollandaise. CARROTS ( Daucus Carota , Linn.) As a result of cultivation this root has grown fleshy, succulent and of a light yellow or pale orange color. When young and fresh it is sweet, tender and agreeable; but becomes hardand strong when old. Carrots cut into thin slices and roasted are used as a coffee substitute or " extract " in this country and in many parts of Germany. When roasted and boiled with water they yield a yellow liquid used as butter coloring. Full grown or mature carrots are quite rich in sugar and contain some starch. The young succulent roots, however, contain but little more than water and mineral matter. They have a trace of iron and are said to be anti-scorbutic. STEWED CARROTS Scrub and cut into dice sufficient carrots to make a pint; throw them into cold water for thirty minutes, drain and put them into a kettle of boiling water; cook uncovered just below the boiling point for three-quarters of an hour, or until the carrots are tender, and drain again. Put one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour into a saucepan, mix; add a half pint of good stock, stir until boiling, add the carrots, a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and they are ready to serve. STEWED CARROTS, No. 2 These will be prepared precisely the same as in the preceding recipe, using milk instead of stock for the sauce. CARROTS a la POULETTE Scrape and throw into cold water two bunches of very young carrots. Put them into a kettle of boiling water, simmer below the boiling point until the carrots are perfectly tender; dram and turn into a heated vegetable dish. Rub together one table-spoonful of butter and one of flour, add a pint of white stock. chicken preferable, stir until it reaches the boiling point; add the yolks of two eggs well beaten, with a tablespoonful of cream Take immediately from the fire, add a half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and strain it over the carrots. Do not boil the sauce after adding the yolks. CARROTS IN TURNIP CUPS Pare small, well shaped white turnips. Cut slices from the stem end and with a potato scoop, scoop out the flesh, leaving a cup. Throw these into un salted boiling water and simmer for twenty minutes. Lift each one carefully with the skimmer and turn upside down to. drain. While these are cooking, cut young carrots into dice, put them in a kettle of boiling water and cook below the boiling point for twenty minutes; drain in a colander. Arrange the turnip cups while hot on a heated chop dish; add to the carrots half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and a half cup of good thick cream. Shake over the fire until hot and fill in the turnip cups; garnish the dish with parsley and send at once to the table. This is an exceedingly sightly dish to serve in the spring at a small dinner or lunch. PICKLED CARROTS Scrape, wash in cold water, six good-sized carrots, cut them into slices crosswise, put them into a kettle of boiling water and cook until tender, about three-quarters of an hour, keeping the water just below the boiling point. Drain, put them into jars, add a slice of onion, two bay leaves, a teaspoonful of celery seed; fill the jars with vinegar and stand aside for twenty-four hours and they are ready to use. These make a sightly garnish for lettuce salad, or may be used in potato salad, or as garnish for cold meat. CARROTS IN FARMERS' STYLE Scrape six carrots and throw them into cold water for thirty minutes. Cut them into thin slices crosswise, put them in a stewing pan, cover with boiling stock, add a half teaspoonful of salt and simmer gently until the carrots are tender, about three-quarters of an hour. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, add them to the carrots, stir until the mixture reaches the boiling point; add a teaspoonful of "kitchen bouquet" and serve. CARROTS en SURPRISE Scrape two good-sized carrots and cut them into dice. Put them in boiling water and cook slowly until tender, about three-quarters of an hour. Pare six small white turnips, cut a slice from the stem, scoop out the centre, leaving a cup. Trim the slice and cook it also. When tender, lift and drain the turnip. Drain the carrots and cover with sauce Hollandaise. Fill these in the turnip cups, put on the lids, stick a sprig of parsley in the top, dish and send to the table. CARROT TIMBALE Scrape and cut four carrots into slices; throw them into cold water for a half hour, then put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling stock and simmer gently until tender. Drain again and mash them through a colander. Add two eggs beaten without separating until quite light, a level teaspoonful of salt, a salt -spoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of onion juice and a table-spoonful of thick cream, mix lightly, fill into tiny greased tim-bale cups. Stand them in a baking pan of boiling water, cover with greased paper and poach in the oven twenty minutes. Loosen the sides of the molds with a knife and turn them out carefully. These may be served plain or with cream sauce, or the dish may be garnished with nicely cooked peas. CARROT HASH Scrape and wash three good-sized carrots. Chop them fine Put them into a kettle with a teaspoonful of sugar, a pint of boiling stock and a tablespoonful of chopped onion; simmer gently until tender. Then add half a teaspoonful of salt, a salt -spoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, simmer just a moment longer and add the juice of half a lemon. Serve in a round vegetable dish garnished with triangular pieces of toasted bread. CELERY ( Apium graveolens , Linn.) Celery has by cultivation lost its acrid taste, and become sweet and mild. To make it still more agreeable, the gardener banks the earth around the stalks as they grow until all but the tops are covered; in this way the sun is excluded and the stems arc bleached, succulent and tender. As soon as celery comes home from the market or is brought into the house, cut off the green tops and put them aside for soup flavoring; separate the heads, saving the outside green pieces for stewing or celery sauce, and the very tender inner portion for eating raw. Celery will keep much longer if the stalks are placed in a deep jar of cold water. The very large varieties are best for stewing; for eating raw, the small inferior looking heads are usually the sweetest. A five cent scrubbing brush will enable one to clean celery quickly and carefully. TO PREPARE CELERY, RAW After thoroughly scrubbing and washing the celery throw it into cold water to soak for thirty or forty minutes. Serve with cracked ice in a shallow celery dish. TO FRINGE CELERY Cut nice crisp celery into two inch lengths; with a sharp knife begin at the outside of the stalk, make six or eight cuts about one inch in length, then about five parallel cuts, and cut the other end of the piece in the same manner. Throw at once into cold water. In about one hour these little pieces will curl back, giving the celery the appearance of being fringed. To serve as raw celery cut only one end of each piece; for garnishing fringe both ends. STEWED CELERY 1 quart of celery 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Use the outside pieces that are not sufficiently white and tender to be served raw. Wash carefully, cut into lengths of one inch, cover with boiling salted water and cook just below the boiling point, about 210? Fahr., for thirty minutes. Drain, saving the water. Rub together the butter and flour, add a half pint of the water in which the celery was boiled, stir until boiling, add the salt and pepper. Strain this over the celery, and cook slowly five minutes longer. Serve with turkey or chicken, or tame duck. CREAMED CELERY Cook the celery the same as in preceding recipe; save the water in which it was cooked for cream soup. When the celery is tender, make plain cream sauce, add to it the celery and, when thoroughly hot, serve. BOILED CELERY Cut off the tops and the outside very green pieces and neatly trim the root without breaking the head. Wash carefully, allowing the water to penetrate the very heart; tie the heads to keep them in shape; throw them into boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and cook gently one hour. When done lift the bundles and drain carefully. Cut the strings, and arrange the heads neatly on a platter. Serve a half head to each person, cutting lengthwise of the head. Pass sauce Hollandaise. SAUTéD CELERY Select six small, solid stalks of celery; wash, cut them into lengths of one and a haft to two inches; soak them in cold water for half an hour, throw them into boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil rapidly five minutes; drain again. Throw them onto a napkin or towel, and toss them about until thoroughly dry. Put two tablespoonfuls of oil into a shallow frying or saute pan; add a tablespoonful of chopped onion, and when hot, put in the celery, a small quantity at a time; stir or toss over a very hot fire until slightly browned; lift with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper. When ready to serve sprinkle over two tablespoonfuls of soy or mushroom catsup, and send at once to the table. This is served as an accompaniment to panned or broiled chicken. CELERY au SUPRêME 2 heads of celery 1 quart of water Yolks of two eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the celery into one inch pieces; wash thoroughly, cover with a quart of water, add the salt and cook gently three-quarters of an hour. Rub the butter and flour together, add one pint of water in which the celery was boiled, stir until boiling, take from the fire, add the celery drained, the yolks of the eggs beaten with a quarter cup of cream, and the pepper, and stir over hot water until it is the thickness of good cream. Be careful not to boil or the sauce will curdle. DIPPED CELERY Cut tender white celery into four inch lengths. Wash, dry, and dust with salt and pepper. Dip them in beaten egg, roll in fine bread crumbs, and plunge them for a moment into hot fat. Serve as a garnish to boiled fowl. CELERIAC ( Apium graveolens , Variety Rapaceum) Celeriac, or turnip rooted celery, is a variety of the common white celery of which the root is enlarged and edible?not the stalks, as in the common celery. These roots are peeled, sliced, boiled and served cold with mayonnaise dressing under the name of celery root salad. CELERIAC WITH CREAM SAUCE Peel the roots, cut them into slices one inch thick; throw them into cold water to soak for a half hour; drain, cover with boiling water, add a level teaspoonful of salt; boil for three-quarters of an hour, or until tender. Drain, saving the water in which they were boiled for soups or sauces. Dish the celery root and pour over cream sauce. CELERY ROOT WITH SAUCE HOLLANDAISE Boil according to the preceding recipe; when done and tender, drain, turn into a heated vegetable dish and pass with it sauce Hollandaise. SCALLOPED CELERY ROOT Peel and boil the celery root as directed in the first recipe. When done drain and chop it fine; measure it, and to each pint allow a half pint of white or cream sauce. Put a layer of the cream sauce in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of the chopped celery root, then another layer of cream sauce, and so continue until the dish is full, having the last layer sauce. Dust the top lightly with grated cheese, then with bread crumbs and bake in a moderately quick oven thirty minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. Serve celery and celeriac with poultry. CUCUMBERS ( Cucumis sativus , Linn.) Cucumbers are rich in water, and contain but little mineral matter; they are chiefly prized for their agreeable odor and flavor. Cooked they form an attractive and easily digested succulent vegetable.' In Egypt, they are cooked in many attractive ways and are served daily in every household. As a preserve they form the common sweetmeat. Stuffed with crumbs and chopped nuts, they take the place of meat. Cucumbers when served raw are dense and difficult of digestion; if sliced and soaked in salted water they lose their crispness, become leathery and even dangerous to persons of weak stomach. Always soak them in clear, cold water. TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW Throw the cucumbers into cold water, soak for fifteen or twenty minutes; pare, cut them into very thin slices, cover with fresh cold water and soak one hour. When ready to serve, drain, turn into a salad dish or bowl and at the last moment cover them with French dressing. In the early spring, when cucumbers are very expensive, it is wise to pass the dressing after serving the cucumbers. When once covered with French dressing they cannot be saved, as standing in the vinegar toughens the fibre and makes them absolutely indigestible. CUCUMBERS à la POULETTE 3 good-sized cucumbers Juice of half a lemon 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Yolks of two eggs Pare the cucumbers, cut them into halves, and with a spoon scoop out the seeds. Cut each half into three pieces, crosswise. Put them into a piece of cheesecloth, tie loosely, drop them into a kettle of boiling salted water, cook at the boiling point for thirty-five to forty minutes, or until they are perfectly tender. Lift the cheesecloth, put it into a colander to drain. Rub together the butter and flour, add half of the water in which the cucumbers were cooked, stir until boiling, add the salt, pepper, and the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Cook over the fire just a moment, being careful not to curdle; take from the fire and add the juice of the lemon. Turn the cucumbers into a shallow vegetable dish, strain over the sauce and send at once to the table. CUCUMBERS WITH CREAM SAUCE Boil precisely the same as in preceding recipe. When done and drained, dish and pour over cream sauce. STUFFED CUCUMBERS 4 good-sized cucumbers 1 pint of finely chopped raw meat 1/2 cup of pine nuts 1 small onion, grated 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet Pare the cucumbers, cut them into halves and scoop out the seeds. Mix all the other ingredients together, melt the butter, pouring it over last. Stuff the cucumbers with the mixture, put the two halves together, fasten them with small wooden skewers, or tie them with a string. Stand these in a baking pan. Add a tablespoonful of butter and a half cup of water mixed with a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Bake in a quick oven one and a half hours, basting frequently. These must be cooked slowly and should be a rich dark brown when done. Dish them neatly, removing the strings and send at once to the table. These are exceedingly nice as a supper or luncheon dish in the place of the heavier meats. STUFFED, EGYPTIAN STYLE 4 good-sized cucumbers 1/2 pint of dry bread crumbs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 cup of finely chopped nuts 1 good-sized onion 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful of chutney Peel the cucumbers and scoop out the seeds. Mix all the other ingredients together. Stuff the cucumbers, fasten them .together with wooden skewers or strings. Put six tablespoon-fuls of olive oil in a shallow baking pan, when hot put in the cucumbers, turn them until carefully browned on all sides. Then add a half cup of water, and bake slowly for one and a half hours, basting frequently. A nice luncheon dish in place of meat. ESCALLOPED CUCUMBERS 3 large cucumbers 1 pint of white or cream sauce 6 onions Pare the cucumbers, remove the seeds, cover them with boiling salted water and cook until tender. While these are cooking peel the onions, cut them into slices, and cook in salted boiling water until tender, about three-quarters of an hour; drain both Make the cream sauce, and put a layer of cream sauce in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of cucumber, chopped rather fine, then a layer of the onions, a dusting of salt and pepper, then cream sauce, and so continue until the dish is full Sprinkle the top with a little grated, or chopped cheese, or nuts then bread crumbs, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes Serve in the dish in which they are cooked, with either roasted or boiled chicken. FRIED CUCUMBERS Peel large cucumbers, cut them into slices a half inch thick. Dust the slices with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato catsup the same as egg plant. VEGETABLE MARROW ( Cucurbita Ovifera , Linn.) These resemble long narrow cucumbers. When well cooked they form an excellent succulent vegetable. They are extensively cultivated in England, but little known in the United States. Cook and serve according to the rules for cucumbers. MASHED SQUASH Peel three good-sized squash, remove the seeds, cut them into pieces about two inches square. Put them into boiling salted water, and cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Drain, and when very dry press them through the colander; return them to the saucepan, and stand them on the back part of the stove where they will steam slowly for twenty minutes. Take from the fire, add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. Squash is very nice cut into strips, steamed, and then mashed. SQUASH WITH CREAM SAUCE Pare and cut in neat pieces, cook and serve the same as cucumbers; or steam the squash until tender and serve with it sauce Hollandaise. GHERKINS ( Cucumis Anguria , Linn.) These are small prickly cucumbers used for pickling. MARTYNIA ( Martynia proboscidea , Clox.) These plants are grown for their curious fruits, which are used principally for pickling. Containing mucilage as they do, they are in many places substituted for okra. They may be cooked and served according to the rules for cooking okra; they are not, however, so palatable. EGG PLANT (Solatium melongena, Linn., Variety esculentum) In England the egg plant is called aubergines or brinjal The large purple variety is best. BROILED EGG PLANT Pare the egg plant, cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick dust the slices with salt and pepper, baste them with melted butter or olive oil, and place them in a wire broiler; broil over a coal fire until browned on one side, turn and brown the other. This will take at least five minutes. Serve on a heated platter as a breakfast or luncheon dish, with either sliced tomatoes, tomato salad, or tomato catsup. BAKED EGG PLANT Select two small purple egg plants; throw them into boiling water, boil rapidly for a half hour, take from the water, cut them into halves and scoop out the centres, leaving a wall a half inch thick. Chop the portion scooped out; mix with it a half cup of bread crumbs, a half cup of chopped nuts, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of summer savory, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of grated onion; mix all the ingredients, and stuff them into the egg plant, heaping it up in the centre. Stand these in a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven one hour, basting the top once or twice with a little melted butter. Serve in the place of meat for lunch or supper, or as a vegetable course at dinner. EGG PLANT WITH POACHED EGGS 1 large purple egg plant 2 large tomatoes, or a half pint of canned tomatoes 1/2 pint of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt Cut the egg plant into halves, lengthwise, scoop out about half of the centre and throw them in boiling water, boiling carefully for thirty minutes, or until the flesh is perfectly tender; take them out. Peel the tomatoes, cut them into halves, press out the seeds and cut them fine; mix them with the other ingredients, adding the butter melted; stuff this into the egg plant, run them into a very quick oven and bake for fifteen minutes. In a gas stove put them underneath in the broiling chamber until hot and brown. Dish on a platter, surround them with the poached eggs, and garnish the whole with finely chopped parsley. Use as a luncheon or supper dish. EGG PLANT FARCE 2 small egg plants 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 tomato, or one-half cup of canned tomatoes 1/2 pint of finely chopped cold cooked chicken 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter Cut the egg plants into halves, scoop out a part of the centres, put them into boiling water, cook slowly for thirty minutes, and drain carefully. Mix all the other ingredients together, chopping the mushrooms very fine; fill this into the egg plant; put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saute pan, and when melted and hot, add six tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs. The bread may be toasted first, then rolled. Stir this over the fire until the bread crumbs are moistened with the butter. Do not heat until brown. Spread them over the top of the stuffed egg plants; put them into a very quick oven and bake fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve as a luncheon or supper dish and pass with them brown mushroom sauce. In serving scoop out a portion of the stuffing with a portion of the flesh of the egg plant. FRIED EGG PLANT Pare the egg plant, cut it in slices a half inch thick, then cut the slices into quarters; dust with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and plunge them a few at a time in hot fat at the temperature of 325 ° Fahr. Fry until crisp and a golden brown. Drain carefully on brown paper; dish neatly, each quarter overlapping the other, and send at once to the table. Serve with tomato catsup as a luncheon or supper dish, or at dinner as an accompaniment to roasted mutton or beef, or broiled steak. DRESSED EGG PLANT 1 large purple egg plant 1 medium-sized onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt Pare the egg plant, cut it into slices, cover with boiling water, add half the salt and boil gently for twenty minutes. Drain and chop fine; return it to the saucepan, add the onion grated, the remaining salt and the pepper. Stand the saucepan into another pan of boiling water, cover and cook twenty minutes. Take from the fire, add the butter and turn at once into an uncovered vegetable dish. Serve with roasted, fricasseed or a fricandeau of veal. HORSERADISH ( Nasturtium Armoracia , Fries) The edible portion of this plant consists of the long tap root, which contains very much the same aromatic principles as the black mustard. This is usually grated, mixed with vinegar, and served as a condiment or sauce for cold meats, raw oysters or clams. Carefully cooked it is less pungent and much more palatable than raw, and is then served as an accompaniment to game. HORSERADISH SAUCE 1 good-sized root of horseradish 1/2 pint of soft bread crumbs 1 pint of milk 1 onion 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 4 tablespoonfuls of thick cream Scrape and grate the horseradish. Add the bread crumbs to the milk, cook in a double boiler ten minutes; add the horseradish, and the onion, grated. Cook fifteen minutes, then add the salt, butter and cream. Serve in a boat with game, boiled salt beef or roasted goose. STEWED HORSERADISH 1 root of horseradish 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt Scrape the horseradish, and grate or chop it very fine; cover with boiling water, and cook in an uncovered vessel for thirty minutes. Drain in a colander. Rub one tablespoonful of the butter and the flour together, add the milk, stirring until boiling; add the horseradish, which should measure nearly a pint. Stir until hot, add the salt, take from the fire, add the remaining butter and serve in an uncovered vegetable dish with roasted game. This is also served with boiled salt beef. OKRA ( Hibiscus esculentus , Linn.) The young pods constitute the edible portion of this plant They are rich in mucilage and used principally for soups. The Creoles use them with corn and tomatoes as a stew, and with tomatoes alone as a sauce. They form the base of all varieties of gumbo. The famous Brunswick stew of Virginia is a sort of gumbo. Okra may be preserved for winter use by cutting them into rings, stringing them on cords and drying in the hot air; or they may be canned the same as other vegetables. Okra is frequently called gumbo. BOILED OKRA 1 quart of young okra 1 pint of water 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 1 tablespoonful of butter Wash the okra, cut them into slices a half inch thick; put them in a porcelain-lined or granite kettle?iron discolors them. Add the water and salt. Cover the kettle, put it on the back part of the stove where it will simmer gently for thirty minutes, or until perfectly tender. Add the butter, vinegar and pepper, mix carefully and serve as an accompaniment to roasted or boiled chicken. OKRA WITH RICE 1 quart of okra 4 good-sized tomatoes, or one pint of canned tomato 1 large red pepper 1/2 pint of rice 1 pint of stock I large onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of gumbo fillet powder Wash the okra and cut them into slices. Peel the tomatoes, cut them into halves, and press out the seeds. Put both in a porcelain lined kettle; add the stock, salt, and the pepper and onion cut into thin slices. Cover the kettle and simmer gently for forty-five minutes. While this is cooking, wash and boil the rice; drain and dry it at the oven door. Add the gumbo fillet powder to the okra and mix lightly. Arrange the rice in a pyramid in the centre of a flat dish, and pour around the okra. This may be served as a separate course or as an accompaniment to chicken or veal. OKRA WITH TOMATOES 1 quart of okra 6 large tomatoes, or one pint of canned tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash and cut the okra into thin slices; scald and peel the tomatoes and press out the seeds; cut them into small pieces. Put the okra and tomatoes in a porcelain-lined or granite kettle, and when hot add the salt and pepper and simmer gently for thirty minutes; now add the butter, mix and serve at once with roasted, boiled or fricasseed chicken. FRICASSEE OF OKRA WITH CORN. Score down each row of grains on one dozen ears of corn and press out the pulp. Add this to the preceding recipe after fifteen minutes' cooking, watching carefully, as the mixture will now scorch easily. To avoid scorching stand the saucepan in another containing boiling water, and cook at least thirty minutes after the corn has been added, stirring once or twice. Serve with poultry. OKRA SUCCOTASH I quart of okra 1/2 pint of young lima beans 1/2 pint of grated corn 3 large tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Peel the tomatoes, cut them into halves and press out the seeds; cut them into smaller pieces in a porcelain-lined kettle; add the okra, washed and sliced, and the salt and pepper. Cover the kettle and simmer gently for fifteen minutes; add the young lima bean s, cover, simmer again for fifteen minutes, then add the corn. Cook twenty minutes longer; add the butter, stir carefully and serve as an accompaniment to roasted, boiled, fricasseed or panned chicken. ONION { Allium Cepa , Linn.) The common onion consists of a large bulb containing very pungent flavoring due to a volatile oil rich in sulphur. This odor, like the odor of cabbage, is dissipated and thrown oft" by careless cooking. Onions must be cooked in salted boiling water, in an uncovered vessel; they are then wholesome, rather easy of digestion and stimulating to the intestines. Varieties differ in containing more or less volatile oil. The Spanish and Bermuda onions contain but little and are termed "sweet," while our common "brown skins " are very pungent. To keep for winter use, select a perfectly light, dry place where there is no danger of the onions freezing?they must be kept cold, but freezing causes immediate decay. Too warm a place causes sprouting. A temperature of 500 Fahr. is about right. BOILED ONIONS Peel the onions, carefully removing all the outside covering; wash them in cold water, throw them into boiling salted water and cook in an uncovered vessel just at the boiling point three-quarters of an hour, or until the onions are perfectly tender; drain in a colander until perfectly free from water, return them to the saucepan, put them back over the fire, and stew slowly until dry, about fifteen minutes. Turn them into an uncovered vegetable dish and pour over cream sauce. If the onions are not thoroughly drained they will dilute the cream sauce, making it watery in the bottom of the dish. Serve onions with poultry; always with roasted turkey. BOILED SPANISH ONIONS Peel one good-sized Spanish onion, cut it into slices a half inch thick; boil precisely the same as in preceding recipe. Serve with sauce supreme, made from the water in which the onions were boiled, or a cream sauce. The water in which the onions are boiled should be saved for soup. SPANISH ONIONS WITH BROWN SAUCE 1 large, or two medium-sized Spanish onions 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Peel the onions; cut them into slices a half inch thick; put them into a kettle of boiling water, add half the salt and cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Drain, saving the water. Rub the butter and flour together, add a half pint of the water in which the onions were cooked, stir until boiling, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, the remaining quantity of salt and the pepper. Dish the onions, pour over brown sauce and send to the table. BAKED ONIONS 6 good-sized Bermuda onions 1 teaspoonful of salt Put the onions without peeling into a saucepan of boiling water, add half the salt and boil quickly for a half hour. Then drain and wipe carefully with a dry towel. Wrap each in a piece of Baked Onions Pages 402, 403 An illustration of Baked Onions in a Bowl. Stuffed Tomatoes Page 415 An illustration of Stuffed Tomatoe Garnished with Different things. Boiled Spinach Page 410 An illustration of Boiled Spinach in a Bowl. oiled paper, stand them in a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Baste now and then with a little water to prevent the paper from scorching. Take from the fire, remove the papers and serve the onions in their skins. To cat, open carefully from the top, put in a little salt, pepper and butter, and scoop out the centre with a spoon as you would eat an egg from the shell. BAKED ONIONS, No. 2 Peel the onions carefully, throw them into boiling salted water, boil in an uncovered vessel for a half hour; drain; put them into a small baking dish, add a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; add a half cup of the water in which they were boiled, and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently. Lift to a round chop dish or small platter and send at once to the table. Eat with salt and butter. STUFFED SPANISH ONIONS Procure one large Spanish onion; throw it without peeling into a kettle of boiling salted water; cook just at the boiling point for three-quarters of an hour; take it out, remove the outside skin and scoop out the centre. Chop the scooped-out portion, add an equal quantity of cold cooked chicken, chopped fine, a saltspoonful of salt, and one of pepper; mix, and add four tablespoon-fuls of dry bread crumbs. Fill this into the onion, spreading it apart, that it may hold the entire mixture. Wrap it in wax paper, stand it in a baking dish, and bake in a moderate oven one hour. Remove the paper, dish on a round dish, and pour over brown or cream sauce. This is sufficient for six people. Serve as an accompaniment to roasted turkey, or it may be served alone as a vegetable course. Onions stuffed with nuts and bread crumbs are served as an accompaniment to turkey or roasted venison. ONION GLACES 6 medium-sized onions 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of stock 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg Put the oil in a shallow frying or saute pan; when hot add the onions, peeled and cut into thin slices. Cook gently until they are lightly browned; skim out the onions, put them into a saucepan, add the flour to the oil, mix, add the stock, salt, pepper and nutmeg. When boiling, strain this over the onions, add a saltspoonful of celery seed, or a half cup of chopped celery. Cover the saucepan and simmer gently on the back part of the stove for three-quarters of an hour. Serve as an accompaniment to broiled steak. SAUTED ONIONS Remove the skins, and cut the onions into thin slices; cover them with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt and boil gently twenty minutes; drain; put two tablespoonfuls of butter in the frying or saute pan, when hot add the onions. Saute thirty minutes, stirring frequently; add a saltspoonful of salt and one of pepper. Serve with broiled or panned steak, or sauted calf 's liver. FRIED ONIONS Peel the onions, cut them into thin slices, separate into rings. Have ready a frying pan with deep fat at the temperature of 325? Fahr. Put a few rings into a frying basket, just enough to nicely cover the bottom; plunge this into the hot fat, fry quickly until brown and crisp, just as you would French fried potatoes. Throw them into a colander, dust with salt and send at once to the table. These should be crisp and brittle, otherwise they are not sufficiently cooked. ONION au SUPREME Spanish onions are the best for this method, although the ordinary onions may be used. Peel the onions carefully, cut them into thick slices of a half inch; throw them into a kettle of boiling salted water, and cook for thirty minutes, until transparent. Drain, saving the water. Rub a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour together, add a half pint of water in which the onions were boiled, stir until boiling; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; take from the fire, add the yolks of two eggs beaten with four tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir over the fire for just a moment; be careful not to curdle. Dish the onions, pour over the sauce and send at once to the table. Serve with roasted or boiled turkey. Cold left-over onions may be chopped fine, mixed with cream sauce, turned into a baking dish, covered with bread crumbs, and browned in the oven; or they may be put aside as an addition to soups or sauces. BURNT ONIONS 1/4 pound of onions 1/4 pound of sugar 1/2 pint of water Put the sugar into an iron saucepan and stir until melted, not browned; add the onions and cook until they smoke and burn. Then add the water, stir and cook until the consistency of a thin syrup. Strain and put in a bottle. This will keep for months and is used for coloring soups and sauces. In burning, the sugar loses a large portion of its sweetness, that remaining is destroyed by the onion flavoring. LEEK ( Allium Porrum , Linn.) The bulb of the leek is greatly elongated, and the leaves broadly linear. They are used principally as flavoring for soups, but are sometimes boiled and served with cream sauce. The old and popular dish, cock-a-leekie, a chicken soup, is thickened with leeks. SCULLIONS OR SPRING ONIONS These in this country are frequently called leeks, but are different both in appearance and flavor. Spring onions are small onions grown from old mature onions, replanted; they are usually served raw or as flavoring for salads. If the first outside layer is taken off they may be boiled and served with cream sauce, the same as asparagus; or they may be substituted for leeks in cock-a-leekie. TOP OR TREE ONIONS By cultivation these are formed in small clusters of bulbs at the top of the stem, in the place of the flowers and seeds. They are the little white onions used for pickling. PEPPERS (CHILLIES) The very many diverse forms of " peppers " are obtained from the varieties of two or three species of the genus Capsicum, the commonest of which is Capsicum annuum, Linn. Tobasco and the best cayenne are made from the small yellow, red, very hot or pungent "bird pepper. " Paprika is made from a brilliant red, sweet chilli, dried and ground. This is used as a coloring and flavoring for sauces, soups and salads. The large sweet varieties, stuffed or stewed, form an agreeable succulent vegetable. The large hot chillies or "bell" peppers are used principally by the Mexicans as a base or flavoring for all made dishes, as tamales and chile-con-cana, They are used by Americans stuffed with cabbage, and pickled, as mangoes. Tobasco oil is made by soaking "bird peppers " in olive oil. It forms an exceedingly pleasant seasoning for cream sauce or salad dressings. Sweet chillies are canned or dried, for winter use. If dried they must be soaked in water before cooking. A very nice Spanish pepper, canned in oil, can be purchased at any first-class grocer's. These are used as a salad garnish, or as a seasoning for oysters or stewed chicken. STUFFED PEPPERS 6 large sweet peppers 1 pint of finely chopped cooked meat I good-sized onion 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 cup of stale bread crumbs Cut the peppers into halves, crosswise, remove the seeds and cut off the stem; wash them in cold water. Mix the meat, bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and half of the onion grated. Stuff this into the peppers, stand them in a baking pan; put into the pan the remaining onion, sliced, the butter and a half pint of water or stock. Bake slowly three-quarters of an hour, basting the outside of the peppers every ten minutes. Serve as a luncheon or supper dish, or as an entree at dinner. STUFFED PEPPERS, No. 2 Prepare and cook according to the preceding recipe, using a bread stuffing seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. Serve as an accompaniment to roasted beef, or they may be served alone as a vegetable course. STUFFED PEPPERS, No. 3 Prepare the peppers according to the first recipe; stuff them with the mixture of chopped nuts and dried bread crumbs, a half pint of each slightly seasoned with salt and pepper. Bake as directed in the first recipe. These have meat value and may be served in the place of meat at lunch or supper. CHILLIES, CREOLE FASHION 6 sweet chillies 6 tomatoes or half a can of tomatoes 1/2 pint of rice 1 onion 1 teaspoonful salt 6 tablespoonfuls olive oil Select six nice red sweet chillies; cut them into halves remove the seeds, and cut the stem close to the flesh of the pepper. Wash the rice through several cold waters; drain, put it in boiling water and boil rapidly for fifteen minutes; drain and dry. Scald, peel and chop the raw tomatoes, or use canned tomatoes; add them to the rice, also the salt, and the onion grated. Mix, stuff the peppers, fry them in the oil until nicely browned. Stand them in a baking pan; add a half cup of water and bake slowly three-quarters of an hour, basting two or three times. Baste the outside of the peppers rather than over the stuffing. Serve as an accompaniment to fricasseed, panned, or broiled chicken. If the peppers are old and slightly withered, soak them for a half hour in cold water, then throw into boiling water and boil fifteen minutes before stuffing. STEWED PEPPERS Cut the peppers into halves, remove the seeds and stems. Cut each pepper in four pieces lengthwise. Throw them into boiling salted water and cook at boiling point for thirty minutes. Drain perfectly dry; add a tablespoonful of butter, a half tea-spoonful of salt; heat gently, and add four tablespoonfuls of cream. Serve as an accompaniment to Hamburg steaks, broiled chopped meat, cannelon or plain beefsteak. PUREE OF PEPPER Wash one dozen good-sized peppers, throw them into boiling water, boil rapidly fifteen minutes, drain, remove the skins, cut them into halves and take out the seeds. Chop fine and put into the kettle of boiling salted water; cook just at the boiling point for thirty minutes. Drain and press through a colander, return them to the saucepan, add a tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, four tablespoonfuls of cream. Serve as a sauce to broiled steak, cannelon or chopped meat cake, broiled. RADISH ( Raphanus sativus , Linn.) Radishes contain neither sugar nor starch and are as a rule served raw as appetizers. They are passed with the soup at dinner and are frequently served for breakfast or lunch, passed at the early part of the meal. Being dense, they are rather difficult of digestion, and do not contain nourishment. Many varieties are cultivated, and when young, tender and full grown, are crisp and palatable. They should never be eaten when old or pithy; in this condition they frequently produce acute indigestion. The small red button radishes should not be peeled or pared; the skin aids in the digestion of the radish. The tiny green seed pods are pickled and used as a garnish for salads and are one of the ingredients of mixed pickles. The large Japanese and the solid black Spanish radishes are grown for winter use. If covered with sand in a cool cellar they will keep in good condition until spring. They may be served either raw or cooked, and if properly kept give variety to the winter dinner. Containing neither starch nor sugar, they may, when cooked, be added to the list of diabetic foods. Prepare and cook according to the recipes given for turnips. TO SERVE RADISHES RAW Wash thoroughly in cold water; trim the tops, but not close to the radish, leaving one long leaf as a sort of handle. Throw them into ice or very cold water for one hour, and serve with chopped ice in an oblong or round pickle dish. If spring radishes are pared and thrown into cold water, they lose their flavor and quickly sour. The large winter radishes should be peeled and cut into thin slices, lengthwise. If eaten raw they must be thoroughly masticated. SPINACH ( Spinacia oleracea , Miller) This name includes a number of varieties of the same plant which do not differ chemically, and may be cooked and served according to the same recipes. SPINACH BOILED AS GREENS Wash the spinach carefully by dipping it in and out of a pan of cold water; cut the leaves apart, wash them thoroughly, again plunge them up and down in a pan of cold water, shaking them dry. Do not drain off the water holding the spinach with the hand; the sand will be retained, and the spinach will be uneatable. After it is thoroughly washed, put it in a kettle in which you are cooking corned beef, and boil twenty minutes. Remove the beef, and drain the spinach in a colander. Dish the beef on a large platter, put the spinach around as a garnish, and send at once to the table. BOILED SPINACH 1/2 peck of spinach 2 slices of bread 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 eggs 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the spinach as directed in preceding recipe; shake it until dry. Throw it into a hot kettle, add a half cup of water and sprinkle over the salt. Shake over the fire until the spinach is thoroughly melted, then cover the kettle and cook slowly twenty minutes. Drain carefully, turn the spinach into a chopping bowl and chop it very, very fine. Return it to the saucepan, add all the seasonings, and stir over the fire until smoking hot. Turn quickly into a small bowl, pack it down firmly to mold, and turn it out on a round dish. While the spinach is cooking, cut the bread into small triangles, and toast them carefully. hardboil the eggs. Put the triangular pieces of toast around the dish as a border, leaning them against the spinach. Cut the eggs into sixths lengthwise, put one yolk at the top of the mold of spinach, and arrange around the whites in imitation of a daisy. Serve with beef, mutton or veal. SPINACH ON TOAST Wash, cook and chop the spinach according to preceding recipe. Re-heat; add the salt, pepper and butter. Have ready squares of nicely toasted bread. Mold the spinach quickly in small egg cups, turn them out on the toast, dish neatly on a shallow plate pour around sauce Hollandaise, and send at once to the table' Serve as a vegetable course, or as an accompaniment to boiled salted or fresh beef, or salted beef tongue. SPINACH WITH CREAM Cook according to the first recipe. In re-heating omit the butter, and add a half cup of thick cream. Serve in heated vegetable dish, garnish the top of the spinach all over with tiny squares of bread, carefully toasted. Serve as an accompaniment to boiled salt or fresh beef tongue, or roasted beef. SPINACH FOR GARNISHING Wash and cook a half peck of spinach as directed for boiled spinach. After the spinach has been chopped fine, return it to the saucepan, add one tablespoonful of butter, sprinkle over a tablespoonful of flour, and add a saltspoonful of pepper and a half saltspoonful of salt. Stir and cook for five minutes. Then add a half cup of stock; stir until boiling, add a grating of nutmeg, take from the fire and add an extra tablespoonful of butter. Use as a garnish, putting it around in a rope-like fashion, for hot beef a la mode or fricandeau of veal. SPINACH a la ANGLAISE 1/2 peck of spinach 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 saltspoonful of nutmeg Wash the spinach as directed; have ready a large kettle containing two quarts of boiling water, into which put the spinach. Boil rapidly for ten minutes; drain, pour over it cold water, return it to the dry saucepan, add the salt, and cook it slowly for fifteen minutes, stirring every now and then Drain again, chop fine, return it to the saucepan, add all the other ingredents and when hot serve in an uncovered vegetable dish, garnished with hard boiled eggs. SPINACH, SPANISH FASHION 1/2 peck of spinach 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 cloves A grating of nutmeg 1 tablespoonful of onion juice 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 pint of chicken stock 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Boil the spinach as directed in the first recipe; when done, chop it very fine. Return it to the saucepan; stand it over hot water while you make a small quantity of Spanish sauce. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and chopped onion; cook slowly five minutes, strain this into the spinach, and when very hot turn into a shallow vegetable dish, cover the top with tiny pieces of toast and send at once to the table. Cold left-over spinach may be used for cream of spinach soup, spinach sauce or molded, with French dressing as a salad. STACHYS (Stachys tuberosa) The small tubers of this plant resemble, in texture and composition, the Jerusalem artichoke, and may be cooked according to the same rules. Being very small, they require but ten minutes for cooking; if overdone they are heavy and unpalatable. The shape of the tubers is that of a corkscrew, which makes them an attractive garnish for made dishes and salads. TOMATOES ( Lycopersicum esculentum , Miller) Well ripened tomatoes contain nearly ninety per cent, of water; in the remaining ten per cent, there is a very little pectose and mineral matter, not enough, however, to give a food value. Authorities disagree as to whether or not tomatoes are wholesome. Of one thing we are quite sure, they are detrimental to persons who have oxaluria or uric acid diathesis. Tomatoes are capable of great variation in cooking, hence, are exceedingly popular. There is no doubt, however, that they are more easily digested raw, seasoned with a little olive oil, salt and pepper, or salt and pepper alone. Containing oxalic combined with malic acid, they are sufficiently acid without the addition of vinegar. Served persistently with salt, pepper and vinegar they will produce ulcerations of the mouth and intestinal disturbances. Unripe they are used for stuffing, pickling and preserving. TO SERVE TOMATOES RAW Select small solid tomatoes; put them in a colander or wire basket, plunge them in a pan of boiling water, and quickly remove the skin. Place the tomatoes on the ice to cool. At serving time slice them, and serve with cracked ice. Pass seasoned oil or French dressing. ICED TOMATOES Put small round or peach tomatoes into a colander or basket, plunge them into boiling water, just a moment, and remove the skins. Place them on the ice until they are very, very cold. Serve on a nest of lettuce leaves, covered with finely shaved ice. Pass with them French dressing; or put them in little bowls, cover with cracked ice, and serve with powdered sugar. TOMATO JELLY 1 quart of stewed tomatoes 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of ginger Juice of one lemon 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch Strain the tomatoes, put them in a saucepan, with the ginger, sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Moisten the cornstarch in two tablespoonfuls of cold water, add it to the tomato, boil a moment and turn in a mold to cool. Serve cold with curried chicken or beef. TOMATOES ON THE HALF SHELL Cut solid tomatoes into halves; stand them in a baking pan, skin side down; dust lightly with salt and pepper, and put butter the size of a large pea in the centre of each. Put into a very moderate oven, increasing the heat slowly. Cook tor tnree-quarters of an hour or until the tomatoes are perfectly soft, but whole. Have ready rounds of toasted bread; put half of a tomato on each round of toast. Mix a tablespoonful of flour with four tablespoonfuls of milk, add sufficient milk to make a half pint; pour this in the pan, stirring constantly until it reaches the boiling point. Add half an onion grated, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a half teaspoonful of pepper. Strain this around the tomatoes, and send at once to the table. Serve for luncheon or supper. BOILED TOMATOES Select small, solid tomatoes; throw them into boiling water, boil slowly five minutes. Lift, drain, dish and send at once to the table. To eat, open the top, put in a little butter, salt and pepper, and eat as you would an egg from the shell. These are exceedingly nice for breakfast, or they may be served as a vegetable for luncheon or dinner. STEWED TOMATOES Put the tomatoes into a colander or wire basket and stand them for a moment in a pan of boiling water; lift, and with a sharp knife remove the skin, beginning at the blossom ends. Cut them into halves, squeeze out the seeds, cut the flesh into four or five pieces, put them into a porcelain-lined or granite saucepan, cover, and stew slowly a half hour. Add a teaspoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, "a saltspoonful of pepper; take from the fire and stir in one tablespoonful of butter; add a teaspoonful of onion juice and turn into a heated vegetable dish. Thickening of any sort spoils the flavor of tomatoes and makes them rather indigestible. BAKED TOMATOES 6 large, solid tomatoes 1/2 pint of finely chopped cold, cooked meat 4 heaping tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of melted butter Do not peel the tomatoes; cut a thick slice from the stem end and with a spoon-handle scoop out the seeds. Mix all the ingredients, fill the tomatoes with the mixture heaping it up in the centre. Brush the tops with butter and stand them in a baking pan. Put in the pan a slice of onion, a half cup of water, and bake in a quick oven thirty-five to forty minutes basting once or twice. Serve on a round chop dish or platter! Serve as an entree at dinner, or as a luncheon or supper dish. STUFFED TOMATOES 6 good-sized solid tomatoes 1/2 pint of cold, boiled rice I onion, chopped fine 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter melted 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Cut a slice from the stem end and scoop out the seeds. Mix all the other ingredients. Fill the tomatoes even with the top; stand them in a baking pan and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Serve as a vegetable. SCALLOPED TOMATOES 6 tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of stale bread 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion 1 saltspoonful of pepper Mix the salt and pepper together; cut the butter into bits the size of hickory nuts; cut the bread into cubes of a half inch; put the tomatoes into boiling water for a moment, remove the skins, cut them into halves, squeeze out the seeds and cut each half into about six pieces. Put a layer of the bread blocks in the bottom of the baking dish, then a layer of tomatoes, a little onion, a dusting of salt and pepper, a few bits of butter, then another layer of bread and so continue until the materials are used, having the last layer bread. Put over three or four bits of butter, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Send to the table in the dish in which they are baked. FRIED TOMATOES Choose six smooth, very solid tomatoes, a little under or just ripe; cut them in slices an eighth of an inch thick; dust with salt and pepper. Beat an egg lightly, adding a tablespoonful of water; dip each slice carefully in the egg and cover thickly with bread crumbs. Put three tablespoonfuls of oil or dripping into a shallow frying pan, when hot cover the bottom of the pan with the dipped tomatoes. Fry or saute quickly over a hot fire first on one side, then on the other; lift carefully with a skimmer; rest them for a moment on brown paper to remove the grease, and serve on a heated platter. These must be served at once or they become soft. PANNED TOMATOES Wash and cut into halves six large, ripe tomatoes. Place them into a baking pan skin side down. Cut a quarter of a pound of butter into half inch pieces, place one piece in the centre of each half tomato; dust the tomatoes with a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper mixed. Stand the pan in a hot oven for twenty minutes, then over the fire to brown quickly. Do not turn the tomatoes. When done lift them carefully with a cake turner and place on a heated dish. Draw the pan over a good fire and stir until all the liquor has been evaporated, leaving the butter; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix until smooth; add a pint of milk and one piece of tomato mashed from the skin; stir continuously until the sauce reaches the boiling point; add a half teaspoonful of salt, and strain it over the tomatoes. Garnish the dish with toast and send at once to the table. This may be served in the place of meat for luncheon or supper. BROILED TOMATOES Cut solid tomatoes into halves; do not peel them; place them on a broiler, dust with salt and pepper, and broil over a moderate fire, skin side down, for twenty minutes. Transfer them carefully to a heated dish, and put over a little melted butter. Nice for breakfast or supper. CURRIED TOMATOES Select four good-sized tomatoes; plunge them into hot water remove the skins, cut them into halves, press lightly to take out the seeds and cut each half into halves again, making quarters Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan, add two onions chopped fine. Stand the saucepan in a pan of water, and cook slowly until the onion is tender. Add a teaspoonful of curry powder, a teaspoonful of turmeric, a bay leaf and a half pint of water or, better still, cocoanut milk. When this reaches the boiling point, put in the tomatoes, cover the saucepan, cook over a moderate fire for twenty minutes. While these are cooking, boil one cupful of rice. Drain the rice, and when dry heap it into the centre of a meat platter. Put around the tomatoes, which should not be broken; strain over the sauce and send at once to the table. With baked or stewed bananas this makes a delightful supper dish. TOMATOES AND OKRA WITH CURRY Peel six good-sized tomatoes, cut them into halves, and squeeze out the seeds. Put them into a saucepan and stew ten minutes; then with a knife or spoon cut them into small pieces. Add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of curry powder. Have ready cooked a pint of okra; or use a can of okra. Put a layer of okra in the bottom of the baking dish, then a layer of tomato and a tablespoonful of chopped onion. Sprinkle over this two tablespoonfuls of dry bread crumbs, then another layer of okra and tomato and the seasoning, having the top layer bread crumbs. Cut a tablespoonful of butter into bits, put it over the top, and over this put a layer, about one inch, of carefully boiled rice. Cover the baking dish and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. While this is baking, rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add a half pint of boiling water, stir until boiling; add a half teaspoonful of salt and the juice of half a lemon When the tomatoes are done, strain the sauce over the top of the rice and send to the table in the dish in which it was baked. This should be cooked in an ordinary casserole dish. If the top is again sprinkled with a mixture of chopped nuts, you have one of the most delightful of vegetarian dinner dishes. TOMATOES, FRENCH FASHION Peel small solid tomatoes; to each half dozen allow a half pint of cream sauce, made by rubbing together a rounding table-spoonful of flour and the same of butter; add a half pint of cold milk, stir until boiling; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a salt -spoonful of pepper. Put a tablespoonful of the sauce in the bottom of six ramekin dishes, or custard cups. Stand a tomato in each, cover with the remaining sauce, stand the dishes in a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Serve in the dishes in which they are cooked. TOMATO FIGS 6 pounds of tomatoes 3 pounds of granulated sugar Select small pear yellow or red tomatoes that are fully ripe, or use the little peach tomatoes. Put them in a basket, plunge them into boiling water for a moment and remove the skins; do not break the tomatoes. Cover the bottom of a porcelain-lined kettle with a portion of the sugar; put over a layer of tomatoes and the remainder of the sugar. Do not have more than two layers of tomatoes; in fact, it is better to do one layer at a time. Place the kettle over a moderate fire and cook slowly until the sugar penetrates to the very centre of the tomato. Lift each tomato carefully with a large fork or spoon; spread them on a stoneware or granite dish and stand in the hot sun for one or two days. Put them out in the morning after the sun is quite up and hot. Take them in at night before the dew. While they are drying sprinkle them several times with granulated sugar; when perfectly dry put them between layers of waxed paper in tin boxes. If done properly tomato figs will keep nicely all winter, and are one of the daintiest of sweetmeats. GROUND CHERRY, OR POD TOMATO These are also known as the strawberry tomato, and Cape gooseberry. They belong to the same family to which the tomato belongs. Both the red, Physalis Alkekengi, Linn., and the yellow, Philadelphia, are used for preserving the same as strawberries. They are frequently dried and put away between layers of wax paper to be used as sweetmeats. TURNIPS Of these we have two varieties, Brassica campestris, Linn., the ruta-baga or Swedish turnip, and Brassica Rapa, Linn., the white turnip. The Swedish turnip or ruta-baga is not so sweet, but slightly more nutritious than the common white turnip; both are prepared after the same recipes. In chemical composition the turnip is very much like the cabbage, save that it contains a little more water and less nitrogenous matter. They do not contain either sugar or starch. The carbohydrates are presented in the form of inulin and pec-tose, which make them an agreeable and harmless vegetable for diabetic persons, provided they are cooked carefully and served with salt, pepper and butter only. Turnip tops or sprouts of the old turnips, are boiled as greens, or served raw as a spring salad. When well prepared, they are quite palatable. TURNIPS WITH CREAM SAUCE 6 white turnips or three rutabagas 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of cream 1 tablespoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper Pare the turnips, cut them into dice, throw them into boiling un salted water and cook just below the boiling point in an uncovered vessel until they are white and transparent. Dram in a colander. While they are draining, rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, salt and pepper. Stir until boiling, put the turnips into a heated vegetable dish, pour over the cream sauce and send to the table. Serve with boiled mutton or roasted duck. BOILED WITH POTATO Pare four good-sized white turnips, cut them into slices, throw them into boiling un salted water and cook just below the boiling point in an uncovered vessel until transparent. Drain in a colander. Have ready boiled an equal quantity of potatoes; when the potatoes are dry, turn them in the colander with the turnips and press both through into a dry dish. Add a table-spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; beat until light. Add four tablespoonfuls of hot milk, beat again, turn into an uncovered dish, and send at once to the table. Serve with beef a la mode, boiled beef or roasted duck. SWEDISH TURNIPS WITH SWEET POTATO ES Pare two good-sized ruta-bagas and cut them into slices. Wash and bake four sweet potatoes. Cook the Swedish turnips in un salted water below the boiling point until perfectly tender; drain, and press them through a colander. Open the baked sweet potatoes, scoop out the centres, add them to the Swedish turnips, add a tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper. Beat the two until very light, heap them into a baking dish, brush the top with milk and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, about twenty minutes. Serve with roasted duck, opossum, or baked rabbit. MOCK ARTICHOKES 6 small round white turnips 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 small onion 1 bay leaf 1/2 pint of boiling water 4 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1 tablespoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Yolks of two eggs Pare the turnips and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick; cut them with a round cake cutter to imitate the bottoms of artichokes. Cook in boiling un salted water until perfectly transparent. Drain, and arrange them neatly on a small platter one slice overlapping the other. Rub the butter and flour together, add the boiling water, stir until boiling, take from the fire and add the yolks of the eggs beaten. Put the vinegar, onion and bay leaf into a saucepan, boil rapidly until reduced one half; cook the sauce just a moment until the eggs thicken--be careful not to curdle; take from the fire, add the salt, pepper and vinegar strained. Pass in a sauce boat with the turnips. This sauce should be as thick as mayonnaise dressing. Serve as a vegetable course or as a succulent vegetable with roasted lamb, boiled mutton or a crown roast. BROWNED TURNIPS Cut and boil the turnips as directed in preceding recipe. When done, drain; arrange the slices in a baking pan, dust them with granulated sugar, and put a piece of butter the size of a pea in the centre of each slice. Put them in a very hot oven or in the lower chamber of a gas stove to brown quickly. Serve with roasted tame or wild duck. TURNIPS, GERMAN FASHION Pare the turnips, cut them into dice, wash and drain. Put two tablespoonfuls of olive oil into a shallow frying or saute pan; when hot put in the turnips and shape them over a hot fire until a golden brown. Turn them into a saucepan and add sufficient mutton stock to cover. Boil slowly until tender, about a half hour. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour; add a pint of the stock in which they were boiled, stir until boiling, add a teaspoonful of onion juice, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper. Drain the turnips, turn them into a vegetable dish and pour over the brown sauce. These are usually cooked and served with boiled mutton; a portion of the mutton stock may be used for cooking the turnips. TURNIP BALLS These are cut from the turnips with an ordinary vegetable scoop. Serve plain boiled with melted butter, as an accompaniment to mutton. They are also frequently used as a garnish to boiled corned beef. Cold left-over turnips may be used with mutton or chicken stock for cream of turnip soup. A GROUP OF SALAD PLANTS Although some of the plants in this group are frequently cooked, they are decidedly more palatable and attractive when served raw. They are quite free from sugar and starch; are very succulent, containing from 90 to 95 per cent, water, and a small amount of mineral matter. A few contain pungent volatile oils to which they owe their flavor. CHICORY ( Cichorium Intybus , Linn.) Chicory very nearly resembles the well bleached endive, except that the leaves are tiny, split and very sweet. It is one of the best of winter salad materials; it may be served alone, eaten with salt, in place of celery, or dressed with French dressing and served as a dinner salad. The roots are sliced, dried, roasted, ground and used as an addition to coffee or as a coffee adulterant. Many cheap ground coffees are largely chicory. A little finely powdered chicory root mixed with a good coffee improves the infusion, but the mixing should be done at home; coffee is expensive and chicory cheap. CORN SALAD OR LAMB'S LETTUCE ( Valerianella olitoria , Poll.) This plant grows wild in Southern Europe, and is cultivated in the eastern part of the United States for early spring salads. It comes just between the winter and spring lettuce. The size and flavor of the leaves are greatly improved by cultivation. ENDIVE ( Cichorium Endivia , Linn.) This plant is grown in late summer and fall for a winter salad When full grown the root leaves are tied up in a bunch, covered with boards and earth and bleached the same as celery. When well bleached, curly and crisp makes an excellent salad. If not well bleached or too old for bleaching, it is bitter and unpalatable. Cut in two-inch lengths, mix with lettuce or celery, and serve with French dressing as a dinner salad. The outside green leaves are frequently cut into small pieces, boiled in salt water and served as greens. GARDEN CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS (Lepidium sativum) This resembles, in flavor and appearance, the ordinary water cress. When old, the leaves become exceedingly pungent and are unfit to use alone. Sprinkled over cabbage or lettuce, they give just a little of the mustard flavoring without the irritating effect of the ground mustard. When young and tender, they may be used alone with French dressing for a dinner salad. LETTUCE ( Lactuca sativa , Linn.) The varieties of lettuce supply a wholesome, cooling, palatable and digestible dinner salad. It is occasionally cooked, although the flavor and palatability are spoiled. The head or cabbage lettuce and the cos or upright ( Romaine ) are the commonest forms sold in this country. The long leaves of the cos or Romaine are tied together, covered with boards and earth for the purpose of bleaching. The extra time spent in care of this variety makes it quite expensive compared to common head lettuce. Lettuce is the common green served with French dressing as a dinner salad. It is too light and delicate to be served with mayonnaise. MUSTARD The young leaves of the Brassica alba are sweet and bland, and form an attractive spring salad. They do not contain any of the pungent oils found in the seeds. They may be mixed with corn salad, chicory or early spring lettuce, dressed with French or Italian dressing, and served as a dinner salad. WATER CRESS ( Nasturtium officinale, R. Brown.) This plant grows wild on constantly running streamlets, sometimes spreading over the entire surface of the water, stopping the flow of the stream. The entire young plant is eaten. It may be used as a garnish or served in salads. It is antiscorbutic, palatable and wholesome. Water cress owes its flavor to a volatile oil which grows very pungent as the plant matures and blossoms. Mixed with young dandelion leaves or spring lettuce or with shredded cabbage, it is much better than when served alone. A FEW EDIBLE WEEDS SOURDOCK { Rumex crispus, Linn.) This common weed grows along the roadsides or in rich pasture fields in the northern, western and central western United States. It is called sour dock or long, curly-leafed dock to distinguish it from the shorter wide-leafed dock. It may be cooked and served according to the rules for spinach. It makes, however, a much more delicate green. As it grows in the early spring, it gives the ordinary farmer an accessible vegetable long before other garden greens are ready for use. It is usually served with boiled salt beef or pork. This contains oxalic acid. SORREL ( Rumex Acetosella, Linn.) This is the common sheep sorrel, or sour grass, an exceedingly common weed in all parts of the United States. A similar variety, Rumex Acetosa, is cultivated as a spring vegetable. Both of these are used mixed with lettuce or chicory, dressed with French dressing as a dinner salad. It is also used for soups and sauces. Sorrel sauce is a common accompaniment to roasted or fricandeau of veal, or veal cutlets. All sorrel contains oxalic acid and oxalates in goodly quantity. POKE SHOOTS These are the young shoots of the Phytolacca dccandra, also called scoke or pigeon berry weed. In Eastern Pennsylvania the young shoots form a common green in the early spring. They are sold in the markets in bundles, and are cooked and served the same as asparagus. LAMBS' QUARTERS ( Chenopodium capitatum, Watson) This is one of the commonest of garden weeds, and is the most delicate of the so-called greens. It may be cooked after any of the recipes given for spinach. Chenopodium album , or white goosefoot, is cultivated in England and by English gardeners in the United States, and is considered one of the finest of garden greens. These contain a very little oxalic acid. PURSELANE ( Portulacca oleracea, Linn.) Purselane is a hardy annual plant, a common weed in most gardens. It is much stronger and better when cultivated. Boiled in salted water, it forms an admirable green. It may also be added to stews, and is used frequently for sauces to serve with boiled salted beef. BOILED PURSELANE Wash the purselane well in cold water, throw it into a kettle of boiling salted water, boil thirty minutes, drain and turn into a heated vegetable dish. Add to the water a bay leaf and six tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Boil until reduced one-half; add a tablespoonful of butter, and when melted, strain over the purse-lane, and send at once to the table as an accompaniment to spiced beef, beef a la mode, or fricandeau of veal. SHEPHERDS' PURSE ( Capsella Bursa-Pastoris, Moench) This is a common weed in waste places and takes its name from its little purse-shaped seed pod. It may be boiled and served the same as spinach. DANDELION ( Taraxacum officinale, Weber) It is scarcely worth while to describe this very common weed; almost every child is perfectly well acquainted with the early yellow flower of the dandelion. The young root leaves are gathered in the early spring and used raw as a salad; or they may be boiled and served as greens according to any of the recipes for spinach. The leaves grow bitter as they grow older. For this reason the young leaves only should be selected. Dandelions form one of the most wholesome of all greens. Containing, as they do, taraxacum, they are especially good for the liver. Dandelion roots are cut into slices, dried and used medicinally. In some parts of the West they are also toasted and used as a coffee substitute. Mixed with roasted wheat and barley, they form what is known as "poor man's coffee." WILD PEPPER GRASS ( Lepidium Virginicum, Linn.) This is a common weed growing by the road-sides, called by the country folk, wild mustard. The leaves are similar to those of the true mustard and make an excellent flavoring for salads. They contain just enough of the mustard flavor to be agreeable, without the irritating effects of ground mustard. PLANTS USED AS SEASONINGS AND FLAVORINGS PARSLEY Parsley (Carum petroselinum, Bentham) is one of the common plants used as a flavoring and garnish for both meats and vegetables. It should be served and eaten with the dish as it contains antiscorbutic qualities. TO DRY PARSLEY Pick the parsley when full grown, before flowering; wash thoroughly; shake dry, tie in loose bunches, hang in the air in the sun, or put on a board to dry in a moderately warm oven. When dry, rub the leaves to a powder, and put them through a fine sieve, bottle, cork and keep in a dry, cold closet. TO DRY PARSLEY FOR GARNISHING Select the large curly parsley, plunge it into boiling water, a single piece at a time. Shake thoroughly, dry according to the preceding recipe, but do not powder. Put the parsley in tin boxes between layers of waxed paper and keep in a dry place. In winter, when wanted for use, soak in cold water, shake and use the same as the fresh parsley. CHERVIL Sweet chervil ( Myrrhis odorata , Linn.), a pungent, aromatic plant used as flavoring for salads and as a garnish to delicate meat dishes. It is easily cultivated. TO DRY CHERVIL Pick the chervil in the middle of the day and just before the flowering period. Dry in the sun in the air, or in a warm oven. Powder, and put away for use. TARRAGON (Artemisia Dracunculus) The green leaves of tarragon are mixed with lettuce and served with French dressing as a dinner salad. They are also dried and used in powdered form and preserved in vinegar. Tarragon vinegar is commonly used for sour sauces or dressings. SHALLOT OR ESCHALOT ( Allium Ascalonicum, Linn.) Shallots are the minor members of the onion tribe. They are usually chopped or finely sliced and sprinkled over the top of salads. They are also used as a delicate flavoring for soups and sauces. They are sold in the eastern markets by the quart and in appearance resemble the brown skinned onion "sets." CHIVES ( Allium Schcenoprasum, Linn.) In appearance these resemble the wild or crow garlic, which grows in pastures in the early spring. They are sold in the markets, roots, bulbs and top, packed in small strawberry boxes. The green tops are washed, chopped and sprinkled over salads as flavoring. BAY LEAVES ( Laurus nobilis, Linn.) The dried leaves of this plant come to us from the district of the Mediterranean. The plant does not grow outside of the conservatories in America. The leaves can be purchased at any drug store; five or ten cents' worth will last a family of six for a year. They have a mild, peculiar aroma, and form a most acceptable flavoring for soups and stews. GUMBO FILEE POWDER This is made from the very young leaves of the sassafras tree ( Sassafras officinale, Nees). Pick the first tiny leaves that come out in the spring, during the middle of a dry day. Spread them in the sun or in a moderately hot oven, to dry quickly. When perfectly dry rub them first in the hands, and then through a fine hair or wire sieve, and bottle for use. These leaves are very rich in mucilage, and are used as thickening to gumbo. Allow a teaspoonful to each quart. The famous Brunswick stew of Virginia is also thickened with gumbo filee powder. MARJORAM ( Origanum majorana, Linn.) SUMMER SAVORY ( Satureia hortensis, Linn.) SAGE ( Salvia officinalis, Linn.) SWEET BASIL (Ocimum Basilicum) Do not mistake this for the wild basil or mountain pink of this country. Sweet basil does not grow wild in the United States, but it is grown by gardeners as a kitchen or pot- herb. All these herbs are used as seasonings to meat dishes and stuffings. THYME Of this there are two varieties; the common thyme, Thymus vulgaris, or wild thyme, and the creeping thyme, Thymus Serpyllum, or garden thyme. MINT SPEARMINT ( Mentha viridis, Linn.) This is also called meadow mint; it grows wild in most parts of the United States. It is used both fresh and dried. Chopped fine, mixed with vinegar and sugar, it forms the common mint sauce served with lamb. Bruised and boiled with syrup it is used for sherbets and punches. Conserved it is sold as a sweetmeat, the same as candied violets and rose leaves. It may be dried to use for sweets or preserved in vinegar for sauce and salads. TO DRY HERBS All herbs may be dried according to the following rule: Gather them just before flowering, on a very dry day, about ten or eleven o'clock, and make sure they are quite free from dew. Shake, remove each leaf carefully from the stems, and place them on soft brown paper on a board in the hot sun; or tie in bunches and hang in the air in the hot sun; or place them in a moderately hot oven. No matter which method is selected, the herbs must be dried quickly, to retain color and flavor. When dry, rub the leaves to a powder, sift, and put them at once in bottles. Cork and keep in a dry closet. MIXED HERBS 1/2 ounce of thyme 1/2 ounce of summer savory 1/2 ounce of sweet marjoram 1/2 ounce of basil 1/2 ounce of dried grated lemon rind 1 ounce of dried parsley 1 ounce of celery seed Mix all together, rub through a fine sieve, and bottle. This powder or mixture is used for flavoring stuffings, beef a la mode, brown sauces, and other savory meat dishes. SPICES ANISE (Pimpinella anisum) The seeds of this plant contain an essential oil used for the flavoring of cordials and punches. CARDAMOM (Elettaria cardamomum) The seeds of this plant are used as flavoring for pilau and many of the East Indian meat dishes. Ground, they are one of the ingredients of curry powder. CARAWAY ( Carum Carui, Linn.) CORIANDER ( Coriandrum sativum, Linn.) CUMIN-SEED (Cuminum cyminum) FENNEL ( Fceniculum officinale, Allioni) The seeds of all these plants are used by the Germans as flavoring for cakes and breads. They are also greatly prized by the Orientals. Ground, they are the principal ingredients of curry powder; cumin-seeds are the chosen flavor for Dutch cheese. DILL (Peucedanum graveolens) This plant resembles fennel; in fact, fennel is always used when dill cannot be obtained. Holland pickles, or Dutch cucumbers, are large cucumbers preserved in brine richly flavored with dill, and sold under the name of dill pickles. CINNAMON True cinnamon consists of the dried inner bark of the tropical tree, Cinnamomum zeylanicum. This bark is thin, brittle and of a light brown color. Cinnamon is the mildest of all spices, and for this reason is used with delicate fruits, and as flavoring for cakes, as cinnamon bun and Spanish bun. Much of the low priced cinnamon is the bark of the cassia tree, another species of the same genus. Cassia is coarse and woody, and lacks the delicate flavoring of the true cinnamon. A "stick" of cinnamon is one piece of the bark, usually six or eight inches in length. ALLSPICE Pimenta ( allspice ) consists of the berry of the Eugenia pimenta, a tropical evergreen tree. This is sold both whole and ground. On account of the richness of flavor and its similarity to all the other spices, it is called " allspice. " CLOVES Cloves are the dry flower buds of the Eugenia caryophyllata. In purchasing cloves select those rich in oil and dark in color. Cloves being much more pungent than other spices, must be used sparingly. MUSTARD FLOUR The ground mustard, or mustard flour, is composed of both white and black mustard seeds. Some of the cheaper varieties are largely adulterated with cracker and bread crumbs; in fact, they have but a trace of mustard. The white seeds are pungent, but contain no essential oil. The black seeds contain an acrid substance, which when moistened is changed by the action of an enzyme (myosin) into a pungent essential oil, very hot and irritating. For this reason mustard is not used as a seasoning to delicate foods. Added to mayonnaise or French dressing it completely upsets the digestibility of the salad, besides spoiling or overpowering the delicate flavoring. Under all circum- stances use it most cautiously, and under no conditions add it to the food for invalids or delicate children. The German mustards, especially those sold in this country consist of Rhine wine thickened with cornstarch, flavored with spices, and made pungent with black mustard. This mustard is less irritating than the ordinary home- made mustard. The bright yellow mustards are, as a rule, colored with turmeric. TURMERIC (Curcuma Longa) The rhizome of this plant is dried, ground and used as coloring (yellow), and flavoring for pickles and curry. In fact, it is the chief ingredient in curry powders. ' Turmeric paper " is used for the determination of alkalies. INDIAN CURRY POWDER 1/4 pound of coriander seed 2 ounces of cumin seed 2 ounces of fennel seed 1 ounce of cardamom seed 10 small bay leaves 1/4 pound of turmeric 1/2 ounce of cinnamon 1/2 ounce of mustard 1/2 ounce of Jamaica ginger 1/2 ounce of allspice Grind and mix all the ingredients, except the bay leaves, cover, and stand them aside over night. Next morning, rub them through a fine hair or wire sieve, put the powder into bottles, mixing with it the bay leaves; cork sufficiently tight to completely exclude the air. NUTMEG These are the seed kernels of the Myristica fragrans, a handsome tropical evergreen tree. They are exceedingly rich in an essential, pungent oil. The fruit, in appearance, resembles a peach. After removing the flesh part, we come first to the seed coat, mace, then to the seed, which, when removed, gives us the kernel known as nutmeg. In preparation for the market, these kernels are rolled in lime to prevent the attack of insects. The short, round or "female" nutmegs are best; the "male" nutmeg is long, rather dry, and contains but little essential oil. MACE Mace is the accessory seedcoat to the nutmeg, and like it has a fixed, as well as an essential oil. The latter is more pungent in mace than in nutmeg. It is sold in the market both whole and ground, and is used as an ordinary spice. In removing the mace from the nutmeg, it is usually broken into halves, one of these pieces being called a "blade" of mace. BLACK PEPPER Black pepper is made from the unripe berries of piper nigrum. The berries are picked when red, dried and then ground, shells and all. The whole berries are called "pepper corns." WHITE PEPPER This is made from the ripe seed kernels of the same berry. The dark outside husk is rejected. Both white and black pepper contain an essential oil, and flavoring known as peperin. Of the two, the white is much more pungent. Coarsely ground white pepper is called "mignonette" pepper. GINGER ( Zingiber officinale, Linn.) This plant is a native of both the East and the West Indies, where it is used as seasoning for nearly all sweet and made dishes. Our common ginger is the fleshy rhizome, dried and ground. These rhizomes also come to us in the early fall in a green condition, and are used by the housewife as flavoring to insipid fruits, as citron, melon, and water melon rind. It is also preserved, or crystallized, and served as a sweetmeat. The very young tender rhizomes are scraped, boiled in a syrup until perfectly clear, and are sold in our markets under the name of candied ginger "stems." They are more expensive than the common candied ginger, are sweeter, less pungent and less woody. The best ginger is that which comes from the Island of Jamaica. The dark integument is thoroughly scraped off the stems, and they are then dried and ground. For this reason, Jamaica ginger is known as " white ginger. " This is much more expensive at first cost, than the common ground ginger, but one-half the measure only need be used. Too much ginger hinders digestion. A small quantity used as seasoning, or a bit taken at the close of a meal, aids digestion, in preventing unnatural fer-mentations from springing up and overpowering the natural, weaker ones. For this reason curry powder, fresh or ground ginger, are a constant ingredient of meat dishes in the very hot climates. They stimulate digestion. If slices and high season-ing are ever to be recommended it certainly is in hot weather, when the digestion is rather sluggish. SALTED GINGER This makes an agreeable addition to curries, and is a valuable seasoning to hot weather meat dishes. Scrape two pounds of green ginger root after they have been soaked over night in cold water. Cover them with salt water, and let them stand twenty-four hours; then add a half cup of good salt, to each quart of water, that has been boiled and cooled. Pack the ginger into glass jars, cover with the brine, adjust the rubbers, and screw on the tops. This will keep nicely all winter. GINGER CHUTNEY 1 pound of apples 2 ounces of fresh or salted ginger 4 tablespoonfuls of soy 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry 1 large cucumber 1 onion 2 teaspoonfuls of salt 1/2 saltspoonful of cayenne 4 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Peel the cucumber, cut it into halves, and scoop out the seeds; peel the onion, pare and core the apples and chop them fine; add to them the ginger, chopped or grated, and all the other ingre-dients. Put into glass jars, shake every day for one week, and it is ready for use. Serve as an accompaniment to broiled or panned chicken. FLAVORINGS True flavorings are made from the essential oils of the fruits, seeds, or flowers, of the plants from which they take their names. Those bearing the name of the fruits, not containing essential oils, are called artificial flavorings. These are made from compound ethers, and colored to match their respective fruits. Bartlet pear, for instance, is a good example of an arti-ficial flavoring. It is delightful, fragrant, but perfectly innocent of the fruit of which it bears the name. " Pineapple " flavor is another of this type, made from aldehyde, ethyl-butyrate, amyl-butyrate, chloroform and glycerin. True vanilla is very accurately copied in the same way. These flavors are largely used for fruit jellies, jams, soda water and candies. Unfortu-nately, we do not know whether or not they are injurious; let them alone to make sure. Many flavorings can be made at home; in fact, the list is sufficiently large to remove the necessity of buying any form of extracts. VANILLA Vanilla is the fruit of Vanilla planifolia, a climbing orchid of Mexico and Central America. The fruit is in the form of a slender pod, from six to eight inches long, and dark in color. It owes its aroma to a substance called vanillin , which is now artificially made from some of the compound ethers, and also from coniferin, a substance found in the sapwood of the pines. On account of the accessibility and cheapness of the ethers, they are almost exclusively used in the preparation of cheap vanilla extracts. Tonka bean, on account of the similarity of flavor, is a com-mon adulterant. While it is mild and has an agreeable odor, to the connoisseur it is very unlike true vanilla. The aromatic flavor of a good vanilla bean is not lost in the cooking, while that of the cheap, artificial vanilla is easily dissipated. There is an aroma, but not that of true vanilla. The delicate, much sought after flavor of the Philadelphia vanilla ice cream, is due to the cooking of the bean in a portion of the cream; or it may be rubbed with the sugar. VANILLA SUGAR 1/2 pound of loaf or granulated sugar 2 good vanilla beans Put the sugar into a mortar; split the bean into halves on a sheet of white paper. With a blunt silver knife scrape out the seeds, put them with the sugar in the mortar, then scoop out a portion of the bean, being very careful not to waste any of the seeds. Work the two together in the mortar until the sugar is thoroughly mixed with the vanilla. Bottle and put away. The outside portion of the beans may be cut into tiny bits, and put in a bottle to be used as flavorings for custard. Cook a few small pieces in the milk in a double boiler. VANILLA EXTRACT Cut four beans into halves and then into small lengths. Put them into a quart fruit jar, with a pint of good alcohol. Adjust the rubber and screw on the top. Shake the bottle every day for one month without unscrewing. At the end of that time, filter the extract, bottle and cork. Add a second half pint of alcohol to the beans in the jar, and proceed as before. Of the first, use for flavoring only a half teaspoonful to each quart of liquid; of the second, a teaspoonful. A little caramel will give the extract the desired or common color. ORANGE FLAVORING The flavoring of both orange and lemon is due to a volatile oil found in the yellow rind. Secure fully ripe, yellow oranges, grate off the thin yellow rind, and to each ounce allow a half pint of good alcohol. Put the two together in a fruit jar; shake them every day for a month; then filter and bottle for use. Lemon Extract is made in precisely the same way. BITTER ALMOND Bitter almond is a variety of the common almond, the extract of which is used as flavoring for candies and white cakes. It should be used with great care, on account of the quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains. Peach leaves are frequently used by the country folk as flavoring for cakes. Put a few peach leaves on the cake cloth or rack, turn the cake out on the leaves, and allow it to remain until cold. It will have the most delicate flavor of bitter almonds. SALADS The term salad is applied to certain cold dishes composed either of meats, fish or vegetables. For generations these have been served with a mixture of oil and vinegar, or oil, egg and vinegar. The oil furnishes the fatty matter for the meal, and being purely vegetable is more wholesome than the ordinary animal fats. Butter and cream are wholesome if taken unheated, but to make salad dressing, the butter is usually melted; hence its digestibility is destroyed, and under such circumstances a salad is robbed of its mission. In these latter days many American cooks make a mixture of fruit, sugar and alcohol, and serve them as "salads." These are not salads; are heavy, rather unwholesome, and will never take the place of a salad. I much prefer to call them fruit cocktails, and serve them as first course at luncheon or a twelve o'clock breakfast; or a dessert, and serve them with the ices at the close of the meal. Fruits mixed with mayonnaise dressing, and served as a salad are unsightly, unpalatable and a little nauseating. One cannot think of anything more out of keeping than white grapes in a thick mayonnaise. The simple so-called French dressing is delicate and most worthy of recommendation. Over lettuce, cress or celery it certainly makes a palatable and wholesome dinner salad, and one in which children can be freely indulged. Such fruits as apples, pears, cherries, and pineapples, mixed with celery or lettuce, with French dressing, make an agreeable dinner salad. A salad, simple in its construction, should be seen on every well regulated table three hundred and sixty-five times a year. Persons living in the country or on the outskirts of towns can without cost, always pick sorrel, long dock, dandelions, and lambs' quarters. In the city, one can, for a few pennies, buy sufficient greens for a dainty salad. If you cannot afford salad and dessert, choose the former by all means. The happiest closing to a real good dinner is a crisp salad well dressed, served with a bit of cheese and bread and butter or toasted cracker. Left-over green vegetables, as beans, peas, carrots, turnips, may be used separately or mixed, dressed with French dressing, and served as a dinner salad. When you are cooking vegetables to-day for dinner, cook double the quantity, saving a portion to serve cold for to-morrow's salad. Asparagus is much better cold than hot. Cold boiled cauliflower, carefully cooked spinach, leeks, beets, may all take their place in this delightful dish. The Romans and Greeks used salads at the beginning of their dinner to create an appetite. In later days, however, salads are served at the end of the heavy portion of the dinner, or with the game, to bring back or sharpen the flagging appetite to the greater enjoyment of the final sweet. The green vegetables contain the salts necessary to the well being of our blood, and oil is an important and essential food. The garlic and vinegar aid in the digestion and assimilation of other foods. In the use of garlic we must be most temperate. Rub the bottom of the bowl, or the bowl of the salad spoon. Bits of garlic throughout the salad are most unpleasant. Better use decided flavorings, in the form of flavored or scented vinegars. Put a few cloves of garlic into your vinegar cruet; into another, a little celery seed, or chervil; a mixture of these vinegars, or alternate use, will give variety and agreeable flavor. Tarragon vinegar is commonly used with mayonnaise dressing, sauce tartare, sauce Bearnaise and rich dressings of this character. Any small, fine greens that are in season, such as chives, mint, or chervil, may be finely minced and sprinkled over the dinner lettuce. Standing at the very head of salad vegetables is the cos, or Romaine lettuce, and the ordinary delicate head lettuce, and corn salad, endive, chicory, sorrel, celery, garden and water cress, tomatoes and cucumbers. In the early spring the young tender dandelion leaves mixed with lettuce and a little carefully cooked beet root make a delightful dinner salad. Radishes, tomatoes and turnips are frequently used chopped fine, sprinkled over lettuce. Cauliflower, string beans, delicate shelled beans Salad Materials An illustration of Different Salad Materials. Fringed Celery Lobster Salad Waldorf Salad in Apple Cups Page 472 Page 467 Page 465 An illustration of Different Kinds of Salads. and peas, all add to the dinner salad. In the winter, cabbage and celery furnish us our daily salads. Nothing can be more delicate and delightful than the crisp, carefully cut, hardportion of a well bleached head of cabbage. A spherical wire basket, known as a salad shaker, or drainer, is used to dry the salad materials after they have been thoroughly washed. The leaves of very curly lettuce frequently hold the water, even after shaking. Dry them with a soft piece of cheesecloth. If not dry, the dressing will not be evenly distributed. Salads are digested largely in the small intestine. The oil contributes to the heat of the body; the small amount of vinegar aids in the digestion of other materials. FRENCH DRESSING To make French dressing, rub the bottom of the bowl with a clove of garlic or onion. Put in a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and add gradually, rubbing all the while, six tablespoonfuls of olive oil. When the salt is dissolved, add a tablespoonful of plain or tarragon vinegar, or lemon juice. Beat well for a moment and pour over the salad. Use at once. Worcestershire sauce, onion juice, or tomato catsup, may all be added in turn. Do not use all these seasonings at one time; by constant change a number of dressings may be made from a single recipe. Lemon juice may be substituted for vinegar in proportions of one tablespoonful to six tablespoonfuls of oil. Whenever the oil ''floats," too much vinegar has been added. If you are a diner you will of course object to mixing a French dressing in a bowl, and pouring it over the salad. The ideal method is to mix the dressing and salad by degrees. To do this easily, sprinkle over the salt and pepper, and pour over the desired quantity of oil; turn or toss with the fork and spoon until each leaf is seasoned; measure out the desired quantity of vinegar and pour it over the salad, and again toss and turn until the whole is evenly distributed. Serve at once. If the leaves of the lettuce are too large to serve, pull them apart with the fingers before pouring over the dressing. Under no circumstances must lettuce be cut with a knife. The old Spanish proverb most aptly describes the necessary characteristics of a salad maker: "A spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, and a madman to stir it up." That means that the stirring must be quickly and deftly done. People with cultivated palates rarely eat things that are called sour. There must be just enough vinegar to cut the oil. ENGLISH SALAD DRESSING Put into a bowl a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a teaspoonful of pounded mint or mint sauce, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and when well mixed add one tablespoonful of celery vinegar. Without this, add a saltspoonful of celery seed, and use plain vinegar. JAPANESE DRESSING Rub the bottom of the bowl with a clove of garlic, add a half teaspoonful of salt, a drop of tobasco oil, a half teaspoonful of soy and six tablespoonfuls of olive oil; mix thoroughly and add one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. ITALIAN DRESSING Put into a bowl a half teaspoonful of salt, a clove of garlic mashed, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a teaspoonful of tomato paste, or tomato catsup; rub thoroughly, and then stir in gradually four tablespoonfuls of Italian olive oil; add one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar; beat thoroughly and pour it at once over the dinner salad. MAYONNAISE DRESSING Put the uncooked yolks of two eggs into a clean cold soup dish. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of cayenne; work these well together, and then add drop by drop a half pint or more of olive oil. Stir rapidly and steadily while adding the oil. After adding one gill of oil, alternate occasionally with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. The more oil you use, the thicker the dressing. If too thick, add a half tablespoonful or more vinegar to reduce it to the proper consistency. More or less oil may be added, according to the quantity of dressing wanted. With care a quart bottle of oil may be stirred into the yolks of two eggs, alternating with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar, after adding the first gill of oil. It is easier, however, to start with three yolks when making a quart of dressing. In case the dressing should curdle, i. e., the egg and oil separate, which makes the dressing liquid, begin anew at once with the yolks of two eggs in another plate, and after stirring slightly, add by teaspoonfuls the curdled mayonnaise, stirring all the while, and then finish by adding more oil, as directed. In warm weather stand the dish in which you make the mayonnaise on a piece of ice, or in a pan of ice water. Chill also the oil and eggs. This dressing, if covered closely in a jar or tumbler, will keep in a cold place one week. Where a large quantity of mayonnaise is required, and expense must be taken into account, a little whipped cream stirred in at the very last moment increases its bulk without liquefying or destroying the consistency of the dressing. Where the flavor of oil is not liked, this softens the dressing, and makes it more palatable. MAYONNAISE DRESSING, No. 2 Many persons prefer one or two hard boiled eggs mixed with the uncooked eggs for mayonnaise dressing. Press the yolks of two hard boiled eggs through a sieve; rub them until perfectly smooth, adding one at a time the yolks of two raw eggs; add a saltspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne. Add, as in preceding recipe, drop by drop, as much olive oil as you desire, alternately with a drop or two of vinegar. Whipped cream may also be added. WHITE DRESSING This dressing is used for such salads as Waldorf or white grape, and has no special virtue beyond its color. Select two light-colored yolks, drop them into a clean, cold bowl; mix lightly; add a half saltspoonful of salt, and begin to add, drop by drop, the oil as for mayonnaise dressing, using six tablespoonfuls. This dressing should be very thick. At the last add slowly, almost drop by drop, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and then fold in six tablespoonfuls of cream whipped to a stiff froth; add, if you have it, a drop of spinach green. GREEN MAYONNAISE Make a plain mayonnaise dressing, and add to it just at serving time a tablespoonful of pounded parsley. Chop the parsley very fine and rub it to a paste in a mortar. If you are without a mortar, put it into a bowl and rub it with the back of the spoon. RED MAYONNAISE This is usually served with lobster salad, and is made red by the addition of the coral of the lobster, rubbed to a smooth paste. For other purposes, a tablespoonful of beet juice, or a drop of cochineal may be used. Colored foods, however, are more or less objectionable. MAYONNAISE WITH HORSERADISH Stir just at serving time four tablespoonfuls of fresh grated horseradish into a half pint of mayonnaise dressing. Serve as a dressing for cold boiled fish, or c old corned beef, or use it with corned beef salad. ASPIC MAYONNAISE When mayonnaise dressing is to be used for garnishing it is as a rule pressed through a star tube in a pastry bag. The heat of the hand reduces the consistency of the mayonnaise, which makes it difficult to shape. To each gill or half cup add four tablespoonfuls, a drop at a time, of cool, not congealed, aspic, beating all the while. After the whole has slightly stiffened, stir in a little whipped cream. Use it as quickly as possible, or the heat of the hand will again soften it. EGYPTIAN MAYONNAISE 2 good-sized tomatoes 6 tablespoonfuls of oil 1 clove of garlic 2 hard boiled yolks of eggs 1 raw yolk 1 drop of tobasco oil 1/2 teaspoonful of onion juice Peel the tomatoes; cut them into halves and press out the seeds. Chop the solid, fleshy portion very fine, then press it through a coarse sieve. Drain, mash the yolks of the hard boiled eggs, add the yolk of the raw egg, and rub to a perfectly smooth paste, and add, a drop at a time, the oil. When thick and smooth add the seasoning, and then work in the dry pulp of the tomato. This dressing is especially adapted to mutton salad. EAST INDIA DRESSING To mayonnaise dressing No. 2 add one teaspoonful of curry powder and a clove of garlic that has been mashed through a sieve. This dressing is used with broiled sardines, and is exceedingly nice with fish croquettes, or cold salmon. SPANISH DRESSING 1 red chilli 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar 1 clove of garlic 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup Make mayonnaise dressing No. 1, when finished add the clove of garlic that has been chopped and pressed through a sieve, the pepper that has been chopped fine and reduced to a pulp, the vinegar and tomato catsup. To remove the skin from the pepper throw it into a quick oven for a few moments, until the skin will easily peel off. This dressing may be used for tomato or beef salad. ANCHOVY DRESSING Add a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, or an anchovy rubbed to a paste, to the ordinary mayonnaise dressing. A tablespoonful of tomato catsup, a few drops of Worcestershire and a drop of tobasco will greatly improve the flavor. GERMAN DRESSING 1/4 pound of bacon 1 onion 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the bacon into a sauté pan with a half cup of water; let it boil until the water evaporates, and then "try" out all the fat. Then remove the bacon when it is dry and crisp. When the fat is cool, add to it the pepper and vinegar. Pour over sliced hot potatoes, or German salad, composed of chopped apples and potatoes. A supper or luncheon salad. CREAM DRESSING 3 hard boiled yolks 1 gill of very thick cream, or 6 tablespoonfuls of clarified butter 1 raw yolk 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 1/2 teaspoonful of salt A dash of cayenne Press the hard boiled yolks through a sieve; then with a limber knife, rub them gradually to a smooth paste, adding the raw yolk, and then work in, as though you were making mayonnaise dressing, the cream or clarified butter. When smooth and thick add the vinegar, salt and pepper. This is a very homely dressing, neither tasty to the delicate palate nor wholesome, and is only to be used in an emergency. FARMER'S DRESSING 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt A dash of red pepper 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 3 eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 level tablespoonful of corn starch Put the milk in a double boiler over the fire. Separate the eggs. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk; add it to the hot milk. When thick and smooth, stir in the yolks of the eggs well beaten. Cook just a moment; take from the fire and pour while hot into the well beaten whites; add the salt, pepper, and, drop by drop, the vinegar. Lemon juice may be substituted for the vinegar. When the dressing is very cold, it is ready for use. This dressing may be used on carefully cut crisp cabbage or celery, or cabbage and celery mixed; is palatable but not so wholesome as a mayonnaise dressing. COOKED MAYONNAISE Put the yolks of four eggs into a saucepan; add four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, four tablespoonfuls of water; beat for a moment. Stand the saucepan in a pan of boiling water and beat constantly and rapidly until the sauce is of the consistency of ordinary mayonnaise dressing. As soon as it begins to thicken, take it from the fire; the heat of the saucepan will finish the cooking. It must not be curdled or lumpy. Pass this through a very fine sieve; add gradually a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar and a teaspoonful of onion juice. Stand aside until perfectly cold. When wanted for use, fold in a half cup of cream whipped to a stiff froth. SIDNEY SMITH'S SALAD DRESSING Two boiled potatoes strained through a kitchen sieve, Softness and smoothness to the salad give; Of mordant mustard take a single spoon, Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; Yet deem it not, thou man of taste, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt. Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; True taste requires it, and your poet begs, The pounded yellow of two well boiled eggs. Let onions ' atoms lurk within the bowl, And scarce suspected animate the whole; And lastly, in the flavored compound toss A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce; Oh, great and glorious! Oh, herbaceous meat ! 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat; Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, And dip his fingers in the salad bowl. A GROUP OF DINNER SALADS Apple and cabbage Apple and lettuce Asparagus Beet Bean, string or lima Cabbage Carrot Cauliflower Celery, plain Celery in tomatoes Celery and apple Cherries on lettuce Chicory Cress Cucumbers Dandelion Endive Macedoine on lettuce Macedoine in turnip cups Nut?-English walnut or pecan Olive Plain Russian Pea Spinach ANCHOVY SALAD 1 head of lettuce 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 egg 1 tablespoonful of capers 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1/2 dozen spiced anchovies The rule for French dressing Cover the bottom of the salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves. Remove the heads and intestines from the anchovies, cut them into tiny slices crosswise, and put them over the lettuce leaves. hardboil the egg and put it through a vegetable press, or chop fine and sprinkle it over the anchovies; dust this with the onion, parsley and capers; pour over the French dressing and serve at once. APPLE SALAD Arrange crisp lettuce on the bottom of the salad bowl. Put over a thick layer of thinly sliced apples. Pour over the English or French dressing and serve at once. ARTICHOKE SALAD For this use either the canned or fresh artichokes. If they are fresh they must be boiled. With the handle of a teaspoon take out the centre flowery part; pour in a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, and then fill the space with chopped cress or celery, plain or mixed with tomato. Dust with salt and pepper. Baste with French dressing and use at once. Artichokes may also be stuffed with cream of chicken or tongue and used as an evening salad. ASPARAGUS SALAD 1 bunch of asparagus 1 teaspoonful of salt French dressing Cover cold boiled asparagus with French dressing and serve at once. LIMA BEAN SALAD Select very young lima bean s; throw them into boiling salted water and cook slowly for twenty minutes; drain; throw them on a napkin, turning it from side to side until the beans are dry. Put them on the ice to cool. Line the salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves; put the beans in the centre and stand aside until wanted. When ready to serve, sprinkle over a tablespoonful of finely chopped mint, and pour over the English salad dressing. STRING BEAN SALAD Select young, very tender beans ; cut the strings from both sides, and then cut the beans lengthwise into three pieces. Throw them into cold water until ready to cook. Cover with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt; boil twenty minutes; drain and throw this water away. Cover with cold water and let them stand for ten or fifteen minutes, then put them back into boiling un salted water; bring to boiling point and cook fifteen minutes longer. Drain, and when very cold arrange them neatly in your salad bowl or on a platter. Pour over French or English dressing. BEET ROOT SALAD Cut cold cooked beets into thin slices. When ready to serve, cut the beets into dice. Mix them with lettuce leaves, cress or chicory, and pour over French dressing. BOHEMIAN SALAD This is an exceedingly nice salad to serve with braised beef, or mutton. Cover the bottom of a salad dish with crisp lettuce leaves; put over the top alternate slices of boiled beets and hard boiled eggs; sprinkle with a tablespoonful of chopped onion, and cover with Italian dressing. CHERRY SALAD Put stoned cherries on crisp lettuce leaves, and pour over French dressing. Or fill them in orange skins; dish on lettuce leaves. Serve with French dressing. PLAIN CUCUMBER SALAD Select fresh, crisp, green cucumbers. Pare, throw them into cold water for a half hour. Cut into thin slices; soak in fresh, very cold water for one hour; drain, cover with French dressing and serve at once. Do not add salt to the water, but if convenient, add a piece of ice. Cucumbers wilted are perhaps the most indigestible of all vegetables. In a fresh, crisp condition, they are palatable and much more acceptable. CABBAGE SALAD Cut a hard head of cabbage into halves, and then, with a very sharp knife, shred fine the desired quantity. As fast as it is shredded, throw it into a bowl of very cold or ice water. Let it stand for two hours. It is improved by changing the water once or twice. When ready to serve, shake it until perfectly dry or drain it in a colander. Put it into a salad bowl, cover with French or Japanese dressing and mix thoroughly. This is one of the nicest of winter dinner salads. Celery or celery seed may be mixed with it if desired. Apple Salad in Apple Cups Page 448 An illustration of Apple Salad, filled in Cups Made out of Apples. Cherry Salad Page 450 An illustration of a Cherry Salad. {illustration} Parmesan Balls on Lettuce, with French Dressing Page 272 An illustration of Parmesan Balls on Lettuce, with French Dressing CAULIFLOWER SALAD Wash one head of cauliflower; soak it in cold water for a half hour. Drain; tie it in cheesecloth and drop it into a kettle of boiling, salted water, and simmer gently for thirty minutes. The cauliflower must not lose its color. Rapid boiling, or too long boiling will give it a pinkish cast. A cupful of milk added to the water in which the cauliflower is boiled will aid in keeping it white. When done, take it from the water; drain, break it apart in the flowerets; stand aside until very cold. When ready to serve, arrange these neatly in the salad bowl or round dish; sprinkle over a little chopped parsley and baste with French or Japanese dressing. A COOKING SCHOOL SALAD 1 tart apple 1 good-sized tomato 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 pint of shredded cabbage 1 sweet pepper The rule for Japanese dressing Shred and soak the cabbage. Peel the tomato, cut it into halves and press out the seeds, then chop it fine. Remove the seeds from the pepper and cut it into fine shreds. At serving time, drain and dry the cabbage. Pare and slice the apple. Put a layer of the cabbage in the bottom of the salad bowl, then a little apple, then a sprinkling of tomato, pepper and onion, then another layer of cabbage, and continue, having the last layer pepper. Baste carefully with the dressing and mix thoroughly. CELERY SALAD Wash and cut the desired amount of the inner part of the celery into slices; soak it in cold water for thirty minutes; drain and throw it on a towel, turning the towel from side to side until the celery is dry. Put it in a salad bowl and stand it in a cold place. At serving time, baste with French dressing. This is greatly improved by adding a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, soy or mushroom catsup. RED CABBAGE WITH CELERY 1 small head of red cabbage 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion The white portion of two heads of celery Trim the head neatly; cut it into quarters. Soak it in cold water for thirty minutes, then cut it into shreds and soak it again. Cut the celery into very thin slices. At serving time, drain the cabbage and celery; shake them until dry, mix, turn them into the salad bowl, sprinkle over the onion, garnish the bowl with the pretty green tops of the celery; baste with French dressing, and mix all well together. CHICORY SALAD Chicory, endive, escarole, are simply washed, made crisp in cold water, dried and served with French dressing. For a change, flavor the dressing with onion, or use the Italian or Japanese dressing. CRESS SALAD Wash and shake until perfectly dry fresh green cress; pour over it French dressing at serving time. CARROT SALAD Scrape and cut into slices three large carrots; then with a vegetable cutter into fancy shapes, or cut them into dice; throw into boiling, un salted water, and simmer gently for one hour. Drain and stand aside to cool. At serving time, dish them on lettuce leaves, baste with French dressing and send at once to the table. CHIFFON SALAD This is frequently called French salad, and is made by mixing all the greens in season, as lettuce, dandelion, chicory, escarole, a little chopped beet, a bit of tomato and celery; the celery is usually cut into pieces two inches long and then cut in slices lengthwise. This is always served with French dressing. A few chives or a little onion or garlic are frequently added. DANDELION SALAD Select the young green leaves of dandelions; wash, throw them into cold water; drain, dry, and serve with French dressing. DANDELION SALAD, GERMAN FASHION 2 ounces of bacon 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 saltspoonful of paprika 1 quart of fresh dandelion leaves 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonfulof chopped onion or chives Cut the bacon into strips; put it in a frying pan with two tablespoonfuls of water. Let the water evaporate and the bacon fry carefully until crisp, but not dry. Lift, and stand it aside while you shake the dandelions perfectly dry, and cool the bacon fat. Arrange the dandelions in your salad bowl and put over the slices of bacon. Add to the bacon fat the vinegar, salt, pepper and onion or chives; mix and pour over the dandelions and serve at once. ORANGE SALAD This is made by putting bits of orange on lettuce leaves over a "chapon" and basting over French dressing. GRAPE FRUIT SALAD Make precisely the same as orange salad; use either grape fruit or shaddock, allowing one grape fruit to each four persons. MACEDOINE SALAD Mixed canned vegetables may be purchased under the name of macedoine. Drain and wash them in cold water; arrange them on lettuce leaves and pour over French dressing. Or cook separately turnips, carrots, sweet and white potatoes, peas and beans ; mix, and when cold dress with French dressing. Or put the macedoine in turnip cups, place on lettuce leaves, and baste over French dressing. FRENCH TONGUE SALAD 1 pound of tongue 2 cloves of garlic 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed 1 onion 1 head of lettuce 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1/2 cup of mixed chopped nuts 1/2 pint of mayonnaise dressing Cut the cold boiled tongue into dice. Make the garlic in a "chapon;" put this in the bottom of a bowl; put in the tongue, sprinkle over the celery seed, the onion grated, and tarragon vinegar. Cover the bowl and stand aside over night. Next morning, lift the tongue carefully from the garlic, add the mixed chopped nuts and mix the whole with the mayonnaise dressing. Serve in little nests of lettuce leaves. TURNIPS IN JELLY 4 turnips 1/2 box gelatine (1 oz.) 2 lemons 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup Cut the turnips in tiny dice; throw them into boiling un salted water and cook until transparent. Drain carefully. Cover the gelatin with a half cup of cold water to soak for a half hour. Add the juice of the lemons, salt, pepper, tarragon vinegar and tomato catsup. Now add a pint of boiling water. Rub the bottom of a bowl with a clove of garlic. Stir the mixture; strain through two thicknesses of cheesecloth into the bowl. Line the bottom of fancy molds with this jelly; when hard,sprinkle with finely chopped truffle; fill in the blocks of turnip; cover with the jelly, which must be cool, not hard,and stand aside on the ice. When ready to serve, turn on rounds of cold boiled tongue, and serve with French dressing. The "chokes" from the French or globe artichokes may be used in the place of turnips. NUT SALAD 2 shaddocks 1/2 pound of pecans 1 pint of stock 1 bay leaf 12 mushrooms (canned) 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion 1 sprig of parsley 1 truffle Shell the nuts, keeping the kernels in perfect halves. Throw them into boiling water; boil for five minutes, drain and remove carefully the thin skin, picking it from all the little crevices. Put them back in the saucepan, add the stock, bay leaf, chopped onions, parsley, and if you have it, a tablespoonful of chopped carrot. Simmer gently for twenty minutes; drain and stand aside to cool. Chop the truffle very fine, and slice the mushrooms. When ready to serve line the salad bowl with crisp lettuce or chicory leaves, sprinkle over the pulp of two oranges or two shaddock, then the truffles and mushrooms, and last the pecan kernels. Baste with French or Japanese dressing and send at once to the table. Toss and mix carefully when serving. OLIVE SALAD The rule for French dressing 1 head of lettuce 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry 1 small cucumber or gherkin 1 boiled beet 2 hard boiled eggs 2 anchovies, or a teaspoonful of anchovy paste 1 boiled potato 24 olives Pound the anchovies and add them to the French dressing. Stone and chop the olives rather fine. Cut the beet and potato into dice. Chop the gherkin. Line a salad bowl with the lettuce leaves; sprinkle over the gherkin or cucumber, then the olives, then the beet and potato; dust with a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of paprika, a saltspoonful of white pepper. Chop the hard boiled eggs very fine and put them over the top of the salad; sprinkle lightly with the sherry; pour over the French dressing; toss and serve. GREEN PEA SALAD 1 pint of green peas 1 head of lettuce English salad dressing Put the peas into boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt and cook gently for fifteen minutes; drain and stand aside to cool. At serving time wash and drain the lettuce. Line the salad bowl, put over the peas, baste with French dressing, and send at once to the table. This is improved by adding a few chopped mint leaves. SPINACH SALAD Pack finely chopped spinach into small dariole molds or egg cups and stand in the refrigerator to cool. Cut three or four white turnips into slices a quarter of an inch thick; then with a round cutter stamp them out into rounds about two inches in diameter. Stamp out also thin slices of cold boiled tongue. When ready to serve, make little nests of lettuce leaves; place a slice of tongue in the centre of each; on top of this a slice of turnip; then on this turn the spinach. Baste with Italian dressing and serve with duck, hare, or beef à la Mode. TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SALAD A very pretty dinner salad is made by arranging alternate layers of tomatoes and cucumbers on cress. Baste with French dressing at the last moment. TOMATO SALAD Dip smooth small round tomatoes into boiling water. Drain and remove the skins and stand at once on the ice or in a cold place. When ready to serve, dish each on a lettuce leaf. Put on top a spoonful of mayonnaise dressing and send at once to the table. A GROUP OF LUNCHEON, SUPPER AND RECEPTION SALADS As a rule meat salads are best with mayonnaise, vegetables with French dressing. There are few exceptions. Mayonnaise is quite palatable with tomatoes and celery, although not considered an elegant dinner salad, and French dressing is used over a few meat salads, especially with salted fish. BOBOTEE SALAD 1/2 pint of chopped chicken 1/4 pound of Jordan almonds 1 teaspoonful of curry powder 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 6 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1/2 Spanish onion 1 Spanish red chilli 1 head of chicory 1 teaspoonful of soy 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar Blanch and chop the almonds. Shred the onion and chilli. Mix the chicken, almonds, onion and chilli; put over the curry and salt. Toss well; put over the oil mixed with the soy. Toss again; put over the vinegar. Toss again and serve. Garnish with beets or sliced bananas. BEEF SALAD 1 pint of cold cocked beef, cut 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley into thin strips 2 sliced boiled potatoes The rule for Italian dressing Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves, or other tender greens, sprinkle over the cold beef, then the potatoes cut into slices, then the parsley. Garnish the edge of the dish with tomatoes, cut into eighths, or picked beets cut into blocks. Pour over Italian dressing and send at once to the table. A nice summer supper dish. BEEF SALAD, No. 2 1/2 pint of chopped meat 6 tomatoes 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoonful of grated onion Season the meat with the onion, Worcestershire sauce and a half teaspoonful of salt; mix thoroughly and then stir in six tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing. Peel the tomatoes; cut off the stem end and scoop out the seeds. The tomatoes must be very cold. Fill the beef into the tomatoes; place them on nests of lettuce leaves and send at once to the table. Cold boiled tongue may be used in the place of beef. CHICKEN SALAD 1 chicken 1 small carrot 1 teaspoonful of whole pepper corns Juice of half a lemon 1 onion 2 bay leaves 1 saltspoonful of celery seed 1 pint of mayonnaise dressing Singe and draw the chicken; put it into a kettle of boiling water; add the onion, carrot, bay leaf, pepper and celery seed, and boil rapidly for five minutes; then push the kettle to the back part of the stove and cook at 180° Fahr., until the chicken is tender. If the cooking is carefully done the dark meat will be almost as white as the white meat. Remove the chicken, and when cold take off the skin. Take the flesh from the bones, rejecting the fat. Cut the meat into cubes of one inch. Measure and allow an equal quantity of white celery cut into pieces of the same size. If the salad is not to be immediately served keep the celery in a cold place and the chicken in a separate bowl. When ready to serve, sprinkle the chicken with the lemon juice, dust with a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of paprika; then mix it with the celery and immediately add one-half the mayonnaise. Toss with two forks until each piece of the salad is covered with the mayonnaise. Turn it into the salad bowl, which has been neatly lined with crisp lettuce leaves; put over the remaining portion of the mayonnaise, garnish with olives and the light tips of celery, and send at once to the table. Philadelphia Cream Salad Page 459 An illustration of a Philadelphia Cream Salad. Chicken Salad Page 458 An illustration of a Chicken Salad. Potato Salad Page 464 An illustration of a Potato Salad. There are many varieties of chicken salad which do not require separate recipes for the making. For instance, nuts may be added, and chicory or cabbage take the place of celery where the latter cannot be obtained. If English walnuts are used blanch and remove the skins. Blanched almonds, pecan nuts, and pine or pinon nuts all make pleasant blendings. Use all nuts in the proportion of a half pint of chopped nuts to each quart of chicken blocks. In the summer when celery is not accessible, use to each quart of chicken a saltspoonful of celery seed and the nuts, and serve the salad on lettuce leaves. CHICKENSALAD, No. 2 1 three and a half pound chicken 3 anchovies, or a teaspoonful of anchovy paste SALAD, 1 level teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1 saltspoonful of white pepper or paprika 1 pint of mayonnaise dressing Boil and cut the chicken as directed in preceding recipe. Cut the anchovies into strips and mix them with the chicken. If you use anchovy paste, mix it with the vinegar and pour it over the chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and stand aside thirty minutes. When ready to serve, mix half the mayonnaise dressing with the chicken; dish it on lettuce leaves, put over the remaining quantity of the dressing and garnish with a tablespoonful of capers. PHILADELPHIA CREAM SALAD 1 four pound chicken 1/2 pint of piñon nuts 2 heads of lettuce SALAD, 2 cloves of garlic 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 pint of thick cream 1 tablespoonful of soy 1 good-sized pair of sweetbreads SALAD, 1/2 pound Jordan almonds SALAD, 1 level teaspoonful of celery seed 1 Bermuda onion SALAD, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1/2 pint mayonnaise dressing 1 teaspoonful of tobasco oil SALAD, Boil the chicken as directed in preceding recipe. Wash the sweetbreads, cover them with the boiling water and simmer gently for one hour. Cool quickly and pick them apart, rejecting all the membrane. Sprinkle over the tarragon vinegar and celery seed. Make a "chapon," put it in the bottom of a bowl, garlic side up. Put the sweetbreads on top. Cover the bowl closely and stand aside over night. When the chicken is cold remove the skin and cut it into cubes of a half inch. Wash and dry, without browning, the pinon nuts. Blanch the almonds, dry and chop them fine. At serving time lift the sweetbreads carefully from the garlic, mix them with the chicken; sprinkle over the onion grated, soy, tobasco oil and the salt. Add the almonds SALAD, and about a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Whip the cream to a very stiff froth, fold it, at the last moment, into the mayonnaise dressing and mix half of it with the chicken. Cover the serving dish with the crisp lettuce leaves; put the chicken in the centre and cover the top with the remaining mayonnaise. Garnish, if possible, with ripe olives and a half cup of dry pinon nuts. Reserve the " heart " of one head of lettuce for the centre of the dish. Chicken salad is much handsomer when garnished with different shades of green. To intensify the pale yellow of the lettuce and celery, put here and there a sprig of cress. This salad, like others, may be varied by changing the dressing or garnishing. For instance, sprinkle over the top in the place of nuts one chopped truffle or two ounces of fresh pistachio nuts chopped fine, or thin slices of canned chillies. CREAM of CHICKEN SALAD 1 pint of chopped cooked chicken 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1/2 a lemon 1/2 cup of aspic jelly 2 heads of lettuce SALAD, 12 almonds 1 saltspoonful of paprika or pepper 6 tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing 1/2 pint of thick cream 1 head of celery SALAD, Chop the white meat of the chicken very, very fine. Put it into a bowl, rub it with the back of a spoon, and add the almonds SALAD, blanched, dried and chopped. Then add the salt, pepper, onion juice, lemon juice and mayonnaise. Put a tablespoonful of granulated gelatin into a cup with two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Stir it and allow it to stand for about five minutes. Add a half cup of hot stock or water, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of beef extract. Stir for a moment and strain into the chicken mixture. When this is cool stir in the cream that has been whipped to a stiff froth. Put this in a large border mold, and stand on the ice for at least two hours. When ready to serve, cover a flat dish with crisp lettuce leaves. Dip the mold quickly into a pan of hot water; loosen the salad from the edge and turn it out on the lettuce leaves. Have the celery cut and fringed. Mix it with a half pint of mayonnaise dressing and heap it in the centre of the mold. This salad, like many others, may be varied and made into endless varieties of cream of chicken salads. In the summer, for instance, after the mixture is a little cool put it into a pastry bag, using a star tube. Press out the mixture into great rosettes in the centre of a nest of tiny lettuce leaves. Pass with it mayonnaise dressing. Or you may press it from the pastry tube into peeled and scooped out tomatoes. Serve on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise dressing. It is one of the most sightly and palatable of salads. At a reception where one wishes to serve a hot and cold dish on the same plate this salad may be pressed into little paper cases, the bottoms of which are covered with mayonnaise dressing; dust the top with finely chopped parsley or chopped ripe olives. CHIVE SALAD 6 eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped cold boiled ham or tongue or chicken 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped chives 1 saltspoonful of paprika 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar The rule for French dressing hardboil the eggs; remove the shells and cut the eggs into halves crosswise; take out the yolks, press through a sieve and rub to a smooth paste, adding gradually the chives, tarragon vinegar, chopped meat, salt and pepper. Form into balls, put them back into the whites; take a cutting from the ends of the whites to make them stand. Put each in a little nest of crisp lettuce leaves; garnish the dish with tips of cress and baste over French dressing. Serve at once. EGG SALAD 6 eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of paprika or white pepper 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful of chopped chives 1 head of lettuce SALAD, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1/2 cup of mayonnaise dressing Put the eggs into warm water. Bring to boiling point and cook below the boiling point for thirty minutes. Throw them at once into cold water. Remove the shells and cut them into halves crosswise. Take out the yolks, mash them, add the chives, parsley, salt and pepper, and add gradually the vinegar. Cut a little slice from the end of each half of the egg so that it will stand. Make the yolks into balls and fill with the whites. Stand them in the centre of a round dish and garnish with the lettuce leaves. Put a teaspoonful of mayonnaise dressing on the top of each yolk, and send at once to the table. To make the dish still more sightly press the dressing through a star tube around the yolks on top of the white. To vary, after cutting the eggs into halves and removing the yolks, split the whites down so as to form daisies; make the ball rather smaller, placing it in the centre of the white. Sprinkle loosely a little of the yolk around and place it in the centre of little nests of lettuce leaves. Pass the mayonnaise in a boat. EGG AND BEET SALAD 1 good-sized beet or several slices of pickled beet SALAD, 6 eggs 1 saltspoonful of salt 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper 1 lemon Chop the beet rather fine. Drop the eggs into a shallow pan of boiling water and poach them carefully. Lift them on a skimmer, dish and sprinkle them with the lemon juice. Dust the beets with salt and pepper. When ready to serve, put each egg, which is now very cold and neatly trimmed, into the centre of a nest of lettuce leaves. Cover it with the chopped beet and put in the centre of a teaspoonful of mayonnaise dressing. Serve at once, with nut sandwiches, as a summer supper dish. GAME SALAD 1 boiled or several slices of pickled beet SALAD, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 pint of cold cooked game 1 head of celery SALAD, 3 olives 2 eggs 2 bunches of cress 1 cooked carrot 1 head of lettuce 1 tablespoonful of capers 1/2 pint of mayonnaise dressing Chop the beet and carrot rather fine. hardboil the eggs. Rub the bottom of the salad bowl with a clove of garlic, then sprinkle it with two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Pick the leaves from the stems of half of the cress and chop them very, very fine. Chop the white portion of the celery equally fine and mix the two together. Dust them with salt and pepper, and work them gradually into the cold butter and form into balls the size of marbles. In the bowl put a layer of crisp lettuce leaves. Sprinkle a few leaves of cress over the top, then a sprinkling of carrot and beet, and then the game cut into pieces. Then a layer of the marbles of celery and cress; another layer of carrot, beet and game, and cover the top with the little balls, leaving a space in the centre for the heart of the lettuce. Around the edge of the dish put a few lettuce leaves and sprinkle the capers over the top. Send to the table with a bowl of mayonnaise. After the dish has been exhibited-?it is a very beautiful one to show-?add the mayonnaise, mix lightly and serve. JAPANESE SALAD 1 cup of rice 1 box of sardines, or two marine herrings 1 head of lettuce Twice the rule for French dressing 1 onion 1 bunch of cress Wash the rice thoroughly. Throw it into a large kettle of boiling water. Boil rapidly for twenty minutes. Drain and dry; add the onion, grated, and pour over while hot half the French dressing. Stand aside to cool. This salad, by the way, is never served ice cold, just cool. Garnish the dish with the crisp lettuce leaves. Turn the rice in the centre. Press into the rice the sardines that have been carefully drained from the oil; or the marine herring, the backbone removed and the flesh of the fish cut into strips. Baste the rice and lettuce with the remaining dressing. Dust with chopped parsley and send at once to the table. In the spring the Japanese garnish this with chopped chives, in the winter with shreds of raw beet. To make these shreds, pare the beet and then cut it around and around as you pare an apple. Roll the strip back in the same form, like a compact beet, shave it down into shreds and soak in ice water for thirty minutes; drain, shake, and put them lightly over the rice. MUTTON SALAD Mix dice of cold boiled or roasted mutton with mayonnaise dressing; serve on lettuce leaves or with cress, and garnish with capers. Many prefer the English dressing, as it is flavored with mint, which is always acceptable with mutton. POTATO SALAD 4 good-sized potatoes 1 cold boiled beet or some pickled beets The rule for French dressing 1 good-sized onion Parsley German potatoes are best for this salad. Pare the potatoes; throw them into boiling water. Cook carefully until they are just done. While they are cooking make a French dressing in a good-sized bowl, and slice in it the onion. In the spring use scullions or Bermuda onions. As soon as the potatoes are tender, drain; dust them with a teaspoonful of salt and shake them over the fire until dry. Take one at a time, holding it in a napkin, and slice it in the dressing. When finished, toss lightly without breaking the slices and stand aside to cool. When ready to serve, garnish the dish with chopped pickled beets and chopped parsley. Serve for lunch or supper with hot Frankfurters. PARTRIDGE SALAD 6 partridges 1 onion 1 tablespoonful of capers 1 tumbler of currant jelly The juice of half a lemon 12 olives 1 tablespoonful of fresh tarragon Singe, draw and roast the partridges. When they are cold, remove the skin; take off the breasts, keeping the meat perfectly whole, making two pieces of each breast. Cut the onion into halves, rub the breasts; put them in a dish, sprinkle with the juice of a lemon, and stand aside to cool. When ready to serve, dish each half neatly on a little nest of crisp lettuce leaves, or bleached chicory, and sprinkle thickly with chopped olives and tarragon. If you cannot get the tarragon use tarragon vinegar in the dressing. Add the capers to the dressing. Put a block of currant jelly in the centre of each breast and pour over either plain French dressing or Italian dressing flavored with a little anchovy paste. WALDORF SALAD The original was made by mixing thin slices of tart apple with white mayonnaise dressing. It is usually served without lettuce. It may, however, be served with both lettuce and celery. In many cases an equal quantity of apple and celery are mixed and served in the apple shells on lettuce leaves. With French dressing this is one of the most attractive and wholesome of dinner salads. SWEETBREAD SALAD 1 pair of sweetbreads 1 onion 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1/2 cup of mayonnaise dressing 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper or paprika 1 head of lettuce Wash the sweetbreads, throw them into boiling water, add twelve cloves and a bay leaf, and simmer gently three-quarters of an hour. When done, drain; throw at once into cold water to quickly cool. Drain again and put aside until wanted. When ready to use, press the sweetbreads firmly under your hand and cut them into thin slices; remove all the membrane. Line the dish with lettuce leaves; slice the onion; place it on top of the lettuce, and on this the sweetbreads. The onion is not to be served, it is simply a flavoring. Sprinkle the sweetbreads with salt, pepper and vinegar. Let them stand in a cold place for twenty minutes. Cover with mayonnaise dressing and send at once to the table. A "chapon" may be placed underneath the lettuce in the place of onions. Sweetbreads may also be cut into dice, mixed with mayonnaise dressing and served on lettuce leaves. Or cut into dice, mix with an equal quantity of pinon nuts or chopped canned mushrooms, serve on lettuce leaves, garnished with chopped truffle. TONGUE SALAD 1 pound of cold boiled tongue 1 saltspoonful of white pepper or paprika 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 1/2 pint of mayonnaise dressing 2 heads of celery 1/2 pint of aspic jelly Cut the tongue into dice. Sprinkle it with the lemon juice and pepper. At serving time heap it in a small pyramid in the centre of a flat dish. Put around it at the base the celery cut into thin slices. Around the outside of the celery put a thick rope of mayonnaise dressing and chopped aspic. Then a rope of finely chopped beets, and, if you like, outside of this, finely chopped hard boiled yolks of eggs. Send at once to the table. This salad is capable of great diversity. The celery may be mixed with the tongue, and mayonnaise, or it may be served on lettuce leaves, garnished with a heavy rope of finely chopped aspic jelly, outside of which arrange a garnish of the tips of cress. TURKEYOR DUCK SALAD Turkey or duck salad may be made precisely the same as chicken salad. Duck salad is exceedingly good when the chopped duck is mixed with an equal quantity of blanched English walnuts. TRIPE SALAD 1 pint of pickled honeycomb tripe 1 crisp head of lettuce 1 clove of garlic 1 dozen olives The rule for Italian dressing Cut the tripe into tiny strips a quarter of an inch wide and an inch long. Make a "chapon;" put it in the bottom of the dish, and on top the lettuce leaves; then the tripe. Stand aside in a cold place for a half hour. Baste with Italian dressing and send at once to the table. A nice summer supper salad. FISH SALADS CRAB SALAD 1 dozen crabs 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 1 head of lettuce 1 saltspoonful of paprika 1/2 cup of mayonnaise dressing Boil the crabs, and when cold pick the meat carefully from the shell. Reserve seven of the most perfect of the upper shells. Sprinkle the meat with the lemon juice and paprika, and stand it away to cool. At serving time, garnish individual plates with crisp lettuce leaves; arrange the shells on the leaves; season the meat with the salt, mix it with the mayonnaise dressing and fill it carefully into the centre of the shells. Dust thickly with chopped parsley, and send at once to the table. LOBSTER SALAD 1 good-sized lobster The juice of half a lemon 1/2 cup of mayonnaise dressing 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of paprika 1 head of lettuce Remove the meat from the shell of the lobster, reserving the shell and the small claws. Cut the meat into squares of one inch. Season it with salt, pepper and the lemon juice. Mix it with the mayonnaise dressing. Garnish a platter with crisp lettuce leaves, putting the lobster salad in the centre. Arrange on top the body and tail shell of the lobster, sticking the claws in at the side. Or it may be served in a salad bowl, or in a round dish, simply garnished with lettuce. OYSTER SALAD 25 oysters 1 saltspoonful of paprika 1 pint of cut celery 1 head of lettuce 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar 1/2 cup of mayonnaise dressing 1 clove of garlic 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley Select small plump oysters. Drain, wash and throw them into a kettle, bring to boiling point and stir carefully until the gills are curled; then drain perfectly dry, saving this liquor to put aside for soup another day. Sprinkle the oysters with the vinegar and paprika; stand them on the ice until very cold. Cut the celery into pieces of one inch; wash and dry. Make the mayonnaise and stand it aside. When ready to serve, line a round dish or salad bowl with the crisp lettuce leaves. Cut the garlic into slices, make a "chapon," and put it underneath the lettuce. Arrange the oysters in the centre of the dish and stand aside for fifteen or twenty minutes. Mince the celery, using the tender top leaves, and put it over and around the oysters; cover with the mayonnaise; dust thickly with chopped parsley and serve at once. This salad may also be made with French dressing, and may be made from pickled instead of the fresh oysters. Oyster crabs make a very pretty and attractive garnish, but are expensive. SALMON SALAD This salad may be made from either fresh or canned salmon. If fresh salmon is used, boil it carefully, pick it apart with a silver fork, rejecting the skin and bones. Allow it to get perfectly cold. If canned salmon is used, it must be turned from the can, skin and bones removed, and the oil carefully drained away. In either case, arrange the fish on lettuce leaves, cover with mayonnaise dressing, and serve at once. All cold boiled fish may be used in the same manner. Where fresh fish is used, a little lemon juice may be sprinkled over the fish before standing it aside to cool. SCALLOP SALAD 1 pint of scallops 1 saltspoonful of paprika 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 1/2 cup of mayonnaise dressing Wash the scallops in cold water. Cover them with boiling water. Boil five minutes. Drain perfectly dry; sprinkle over the lemon juice, the paprika and Worcestershire sauce. Stand aside until very cold. At serving time add the salt, mix with the mayonnaise dressing, dish on crisp lettuce leaves, and serve immediately. Garnish also with boiled oysters, oyster crabs, or anchovies. SHRIMP SALAD This salad is made by mixing canned or cooked shrimps with mayonnaise dressing; season with lemon juice, salt and pepper. SHAD ROE SALAD Wash a set of shad roe; throw them into boiling water; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and stand the saucepan where it cannot possibly boil, for twenty minutes. Lift the roe with the skimmer without breaking; remove the membrane from the outside; cut into thin slices; sprinkle over two or three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar mixed with one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce or soy. Stand aside until very cold. Cut a clove of garlic into slices, make a "chapon;" put it in the centre of the dish. Put over the crisp lettuce leaves; arrange, overlapping each other, the slices of shad roe, alternating with slices of tomato and nice crisp cucumber. Put in the centre a half cup of mayonnaise dressing into which you have stirred at the last moment a half cup of cream whipped to a stiff froth. SARDINE SALAD 1 box of sardines 1 lemon Rule for Italian dressing 1 head of crisp lettuce 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce Remove the sardines from the oil and carefully take off the skins; arrange them at once on the lettuce leaves. Squeeze over the lemon juice and sprinkle over the Worcestershire sauce. Dust lightly with pepper and baste with Italian dressing. Garnish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley or a few olives. OLIVE SALAD 1/2 cup of cold boiled fish 3 eggs 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce 12 pimolas 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 dash of red pepper The rule for Italian dressing Chop the fish with a silver knife. Put it into a bowl. Rub it with the back of a spoon; add gradually the Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Drop into it the yolk of one egg. Remove the red pepper from the centre of the pimolas and rub it with the fish. Put the mixture into a pastry bag with a small star tube, and force it into the olives, heaping it up just a little, in the form of a rosette. hardboil the eggs; cut the whites into rounds a little larger than the olive, making a hole in the centre of each into which stand the olives. Place these on thin slices of pickled beet; baste with Italian dressing and serve at once. RUSSIAN SALAD 12 anchovies 2 small gherkins 1/2 pint of aspic jelly 1 small potato 1/2 can of mushrooms 1 head of celery 1/2 pint of mayonnaise 2 eggs 1/2 pint of carefully cooked peas 1 good-sized beet 1 boiled carrot 2 tablespoonfuls of capers 1 pound of boiled halibut, or salmon 1/2 can of caviar Stand a small bomb mold in a pan of cracked ice. Make the aspic; cut the anchovies into halves. Chop fine the potato, beet and carrot, which should all be cooked; chop the mushrooms and celery. Put a little of the aspic into the bottom of the mold, on top of which put a few fillets of anchovies, a little chopped white of hard boiled eggs, a little of the mixed vegetables, and a few slices of gherkins; then the mushrooms, and then a layer of cold boiled fish; then another layer of anchovy fillets, and arrange as before. Pour over the remaining quantity of aspic, which must be cold, not hard,and stand in a cold place over night for several hours. When ready to serve, dip the mold quickly into hot water; turn out on crisp lettuce leaves; make a hole in the centre of the mold by twirling around a tablespoon, taking out the piece, and fill the space with caviar; garnish the dish with finely chopped onion and triangular pieces of buttered pumpernickel. SPANISH SALAD 1 box of sardines 3 hard boiled eggs 1 head of lettuce or endive 1 can of shrimps 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup 1 onion The rule for French dressing Add the tomato catsup to the French dressing. hardboil the eggs. Take the yolks from the whites. Chop the whites fine, or put them through a vegetable press; then put through the yolks, keeping them separate. Chop the onion very fine. Scrape the skin from the sardines; cover them with vinegar, and let stand fifteen or twenty minutes. Empty the can of shrimps; wash and dry them. Sprinkle them with three or four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Cover a round plate near the edge with crisp lettuce leaves; arrange on top the sardines, tails in; inside of the sardines a row or a ring of shrimps, using the whole can; inside of this a row of the white of the egg, then one of the yolks; fill the centre with chopped parsley, chopped gherkins, a tablespoonful of capers, and baste the whole with French dressing; use at once. This is a nice dish for Sunday night's supper. SALAD GARNISHINGS To fringe celery, cut the celery into pieces two inches long. Make parallel cuts on each end, then cut at right angles. Throw these bits into cold water for an hour to "curl." Drain, and shake dry before using. CHAPON.--This is a term used to designate a crust of bread into which you have pressed one or two cloves of garlic cut into slices. COLORING.--Every dish should be in harmony with the table decorations, and the garnishing in harmony with the salad, that the dish may not be conspicuous. For instance, chicken salad should be garnished with two shades of green, lettuce and cress, or olives. Carrots are beautiful for the garnishing of white salads and blend nicely with green. Garnish mutton salad with nasturtiums or mint; use violets for cherry salad; rose leaves for orange salad; hard boiled eggs for cabbage salad. Radishes, chopped fine, garnish a dish of plain lettuce. Crawfish or shrimps are used as a garnish to lobster salad. Or rub the coral through a sieve and sprinkle it over the top of the mayonnaise. Oyster crabs are preferable for oyster salad. SALAD SEASONING Agreeable seasonings to be kept at hand for salad making: Garlic, mushroom catsup, tomato catsup, Worcestershire sauce, soy, tabasco oil, tarragon vinegar, mint sauce, capers and celery seed. All these can be purchased for one dollar and fifty cents and will last a year. SALAD ACCOMPANIMENTS A dinner salad usually follows immediately the meat course; pass with it a rich cheese, a toasted wafer, or a piece of toasted bread, or bread and butter; or little strips of bread and butter put together like sandwiches, and piled, log-cabin fashion, on a dainty napkin in a little plate. Where there is only one maid, the waiting must necessarily be limited. A cheese sandwich saves the passing of a second dish; these or cheese fingers or cheese straws are served with dinner salads. A dinner salad may also be served with the game or second meat course; or at a family dinner in place of a green vegetable with the meat. Then serve the cheese and wafers with the coffee. THE APPROPRIATE SANDWICHES Where salads are to be served for evening affairs, or wedding collations as the main course, pass with them appropriate sandwiches. Brown bread sandwiches are especially adapted to fish salads, cold fish with mayonnaise dressing, or lobster or crab salads. Serve nasturtium and caper sandwiches with mutton , nut sandwiches with chicken salad, chopped cress or parsley sandwiches with beef salad. CEREAL FOODS In this group will be found all foods made from the ordinary grains, the seeds of grasses, as wheat, oats, barley, rye and corn. As these seeds are the stored nourishment for the young plants, they are rich in nutritive materials, proteids, carbo-hydrates, fats and mineral matter. The principal carbo-hydrate is starch, which is from 65 to 70 per cent. of the entire grain. There is a very small quantity of sugar, and in the dry grains not more than 10 to 12 per cent. of water. The mineral matter is principally lime and phosphoric acid, and is about 2 per cent. of the grain. Cellulose is found principally in the outer husk, which, in the process of manufacture, is removed, hence, the grains, if well cooked, are rather easy of digestion. Being largely starch, the primary digestion is in the mouth, but they are principally digested in the small intestine. All cereals, when well prepared and daintily served, are certainly attractive and wholesome. When eaten with fruit, or cream, milk, or eggs, they should form the greater part of food for men. The cheapness of production, and the wide area over which they can be produced, commend them to the masses. Compare for a moment the quantity of food that can be obtained from the grains, fruits and nuts, with the amount available from any other source, and you will find the advantage overwhelming in their favor. Weight for weight, not bulk for bulk, cereals must be counted as very nutritious foods. They are not difficult of digestion, provided they are well masticated. When swallowed quickly, as is frequently the habit with mushes, they offer greater resistance to the stomach than toast or breads. For this reason, toast and cream, or better, blocks of stale bread, with cream, are recommended as a good wholesome breakfast cereal for children. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF GRAINS These tables are principally from Farmer's Bulletin, by Jenkins and Winton-?United States Department of Agriculture. PERCENTAGE COMPOSITION Grains Water Mineral matter or ash Albuminoids or protein Cellulose or crude fibre Starch and trace of sugar Ether ex- tracts--fats and gums Spring wheat . . 10.4 1.9 12.5 1.8 71.2 2.2 Winter wheat . . 10.5 1.8 11.8 1.8 72.0 2.1 Flour, fine white 12.2 0.6 14.9 0.3 70.0 2.0 Rye . . . . . . 11.6 1.9 10.6 1.7 72.5 1.7 Rye flour . . . 13.1 0.7 6.7 0.4 78.3 0.8 Oats 11.0 3.0 11.8 9.5 59.7 5.0 Oatmeal . . . 7.9 2.0 14.7 0.9 67.4 7.1 Rice . . . . . 12.4 0.4 7.4 0.2 79.2 0.4 Barley . . . . 10.9 2.4 12.4 2.7 69.8 1.8 Corn . . . . . 10.6 1.5 10.3 2.2 70.4 5.0 Corn meal . . . 15.0 1.4 9.2 1.9 68.7 3.8 Buckwheat . . . 12.6 2.0 10.0 8.7 64.5 2.2 Buckwheat flour 14.6 1.0 6.9 0.3 75.8 1.4 WHEAT GERM COMPOSITION (Church) Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.5 Albuminoids, diastase, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.7 Starch, with some dextrin and maltose . . . . . . . . . 31.2 Fat or oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.1 Cellulose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 Mineral matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.7 COMPOSITION (Yeo)   Fine flour Whole wheat Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.0 14.0 Proteids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3 14.9 Fat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 1.6 Carbo-hydrates (starch, sugar, etc.) . . . . . 76.5 66.2 Fibre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 1.6 Mineral matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 1.7 BREAKFAST CEREALS OR MUSHES OATS (Avena sativa) The oat plant is hardier than wheat, and ripens in much colder climates. It is interesting to observe that oats growing in the north or cold climates are rich in fat, while rice grown in warm climates is deficient in fat. To keep up the bodily heat, fat is required, making oats a typical winter or cold-climate food, while rice is adapted to warm weather. Oats are rich in nitrogenous matter and mineral substances, of which it loses less in the preparation than many of the other grains. Owing to the absence of glutin, oatmeal cannot be used for light- bread making unless it is mixed with wheat flour. It is made into thin cakes, called Irish oat cake or oatmeal wafers, which take the place of ordinary bread; but it is usually served in this country as a breakfast cereal, made into mush or porridge. One pound of oatmeal will yield twice as much muscle-building material as an equal quantity of bread. The American people are beginning to realize that oatmeal well cooked and served without sugar, is an admirable food for children as well as for adults. The age in which we live is a hurried one, and every saver of time is eagerly tried by the busy housewife. Thus it is that our cereal foods are frequently improperly cooked. The old fashioned "steel cut" oats required ten hours for cooking; the first part of the preparation was done the day before it was to be served, or enough was cooked on one day to serve for two. It was palatable, easily digested and assimilated, but required time and care for cooking. The American manufacturer, always ready to meet the demand of the housewife more than half way, conceived the idea that rolled oats would be more acceptable. Hence, the oats were steamed until slightly softened, then passed between rollers to make each grain perfectly flat or thin. In this way the heat penetrates more quickly to the centre of the grain; it requires less time for cooking and is still fairly palatable. Under no circumstances should rolled oats, wheat or barley be eaten unless it has been cooked at least one hour, better two, A singular thing, and one which I have never been able to understand, is that the housewife will spend hours in the preparation of a pudding, pie or cake, the artificial and useless foods, and leave the oatmeal or breakfast cereal, so much more important, to the "cook," who, perhaps, stirs it hastily in hot water and serves it up, after a few minutes' cooking, tasteless and pasty. This is the sort of oatmeal that must be covered with sugar and cream to make it palatable. Nor is it wise to use continually partly digested and prepared cereals, "malted" or "roasted" preparations. Starch is a natural food, and when the envelope is made soluble by long, slow cooking, the natural digestive ferments will produce the necessary maltose and dextrin. The artificial methods outside the body are seldom to be recommended; the digestive organs lose their power if constantly interfered with, which makes it necessary to use "aids" to digestion. In cooking cereals, use freshly boiling water, not water that has been standing in the kettle over night, nor water that that has been boiled and allowed to cool. A double boiler will prevent scorching. Add salt to the water before putting in the cereal. Do not stir cereals while they are cooking or they will become soft, pasty and sticky. Left-over cereals may be used as an addition to muffins, or served cold with cream, or as thickening to soups. Stale, well baked bread, with cream, forms an excellent breakfast cereal, and one that requires mastication, which plays a very important part in digestion. OATMEAL MUSH 6 tablespoonfuls of Scotch, Irish, or steel cut oats 1 quart of water 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the water in the upper part of a double boiler, put it directly over the fire, bring to boiling point; add the salt, and sprinkle in carefully the oatmeal; do not stir. Bring it again to boiling point, and put it at once into the under boiler which has been partly filled with boiling water; cover and cook continuously for six hours. If this is to be served for breakfast and there is a hard-coal fire in the kitchen, make it the last thing at night, and place it where it will cook or keep very hot until morning. Where gas, wood or soft coal are used, cook it partly the day before. Put it over the fire while dinner and supper are being prepared, then lift the inner boiler and stand it in a cool place. Next morning sink it into the under boiler, which has been partly filled with boiling water, and heat without stirring. ROLLED OATMEAL This recipe will answer for all forms of rolled oats, as Quaker, Friends', Mother's, Hecker's oatmeal, and the "rolled" or "flaked," sold in bulk. Put one quart of boiling water into the upper part of a double boiler; add a level teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle in one pint of rolled oats. Put it in carefully, allowing each grain to fall separately; do not stir. Cover and stand in the under boiler, which is partly filled with boiling water. Boil continuously for one hour, better two. Turn carefully into the serving dish, and send to the table. OATMEAL FRUIT MERINGUE Left-over oatmeal may be turned in a round mold and placed at once to cool. When cold turn it out, and cut in slices a half inch thick; put one slice in a round dish, put a layer of berries or sliced peaches on it, and on top of this another slice of oatmeal. Beat the whites of four eggs until light add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until fine and glossy. Spread this meringue over the top of the fruit, dust thickly with powdered sugar, and stand in the oven until a golden brown. Serve with cream as a luncheon or supper dish. OATMEAL GRUEL Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of steel cut oats or groats into one pint of boiling water; boil rapidly for three-quarters of an hour. Strain into a bowl, add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and use warm. OATMEAL GRUEL, No. 2 Put one tablespoonful of oatmeal into one quart of boiling water and boil one and a half hours. Take from the fire, strain it into a soup dish or bowl; add a grating of nutmeg and four tablespoonfuls of cream. With a piece of bread nicely buttered, this makes an exceedingly good lunch for a child. OATMEAL GRUEL, No. 3 4 tablespoonfuls of rolled oatmeal 1 pint of boiling water 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 egg Add the oatmeal and salt to the water, and boil directly over the fire for thirty minutes. Strain through a fine sieve, reheat, and pour, while hot, into the egg well beaten. Serve. Whipped cream may be substituted for the egg. OATMEAL TIMBALE Pour left-over oatmeal into timbale or custard cups; when cold turn them out, scoop out the centres, leaving a wall a half inch thick. Fill the space with finely chopped, nicely seasoned meat. Place them in the oven until thoroughly hot; dish, pour around cream sauce, and send to the table. OATMEAL FRITTERS Put left-over oatmeal into a small mold and stand it away to harden. Turn it out, cut into slices a half inch thick and then into strips one inch wide; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Drain on brown paper, dust with powdered sugar and serve. BAKED APPLE WITH OATMEAL These are exceedingly nice to serve as a lunch to school children who come home after the family lunch is over. Core the apples, fill the space from which the core was taken with oatmeal porridge left over from breakfast. Stand the apples in a baking dish, sprinkle them with four tablespoonfuls of sugar; add to the pan a half cup of water, and bake in a moderate oven until the apples are tender. Serve warm with cream, using a little more oatmeal as a garnish. OATMEAL BOUCHéES Pour left-over porridge in small custard cups and stand them aside to cool. When ready to serve, turn them out, scoop out the centre, fill with berries or sliced peaches, dust with powdered sugar, and serve with cream, milk or soft custard. Canned fruits may be substituted for the fresh. ROLLED OR FLAKED WHEAT Pettijohn's breakfast food is rolled wheat. A common rule for the cooking of rolled wheat will answer for all such preparations. WHEAT PORRIDGE 1 quart of water 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of rolled wheat Add the salt to the water, and when boiling, sprinkle the rolled wheat in slowly so that every flake may be thoroughly scalded, stirring all the while. Boil rapidly fifteen minutes, and serve hot with cream or milk. CORN (Zea Mays) Considering the nutritious character of corn meal and the very low price at which it sells, it is by far the cheapest accessible food in this country. It will be noticed in the table of comparative analysis that corn loses in the milling a large proportion of its fat. The oil of corn, a large percentage of which is in the germ, soon becomes rancid, imparting a musty odor and flavor to the meal. To prevent this the germ is removed in the milling. Corn meal is not so heating as whole corn. CORN MEAL MUSH 1 quart of water 1 pint of granulated corn meal 1 teaspoonful of salt Add the salt to the water, and when boiling, sprinkle in slowly the corn meal, stirring all the while; take the corn meal in the hand and allow it to run slowly through the fingers, while you stir with the other hand. Boil rapidly for ten minutes, then push the kettle over a slow fire to cook for two hours. Serve warm with milk. FRIED MUSH Turn well cooked mush into a square bread pan to mold. When cold cut it into slices, dust them with flour, and sauté them on one side until a nice brown; then turn and brown the other. Suet is the best frying material for mush. MUSH FRITTERS Put one pint of milk in a double boiler; when hot sprinkle in a half cup of granulated white meal. Cook, stirring constantly, for ten minutes; then cover and cook slowly thirty minutes. Add a level teaspoonful of salt and turn into pound baking powder cans. Stand aside to cool; when cold cut into slices a half inch thick, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve at once. HOMINY Recipes for cooking hominy are classed with the starchy vegetables. BREAKFAST GRITS 1/2 pint of grits 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of water Wash the grits through several cold waters; then pour over it the quart of cold water; add the salt, and soak over night. Next morning cook in a double boiler for one hour. If too thick, thin with milk. Serve hot with cream or whole milk. Left-over grits may be warmed, seasoned with butter or cream, and served for supper. Cold, well boiled grits, nicely seasoned, make a good stuffing for tame duck. BARLEY (Hordeum vulgare) Barley when ground forms what is known as barley meal. Cleaned carefully, partly hulled and a little rounded by polishing, it is sold under the name of "pearl" barley. Flattened or rolled, it is known as barley flakes. The nitrogenous matter of barley is not rich in glutin, but consists principally of vegetable albumin and casein; like oatmeal it cannot be made into light bread. Barley cakes or bread consists of flattened cakes sometimes baked on the griddle, but frequently in the oven. They have the general appearance and flavor of the cassava bread of the West Indies. BARLEY WATER 2 ounces of "pearl" barley 2 quarts of water Wash the barley through several cold waters, cover with boiling water and boil for five minutes; drain and throw the water away. Add two quarts of boiling water, cover and boil gently for two hours. Strain and stand the water away to cool. This may be used as food for young children in the proportion of one-third barley water and two-thirds milk. BARLEY FLAKES Cook precisely the same as rolled oats. RYE The common rye (Secale cereale) also belongs to the grasses, is quite hardy and is grown largely in this country. The nitrogenous principles are rather rich in glutin, making it a bread grain, ranking next to wheat. The bread, however, is darker and denser than ordinary wheat bread. Mixed with wheat flour it is much more palatable than when used alone. RYE MUSH 1 quart of water About half a pint of rye meal 1 level teaspoonful of salt Add the salt to the water, bring to boiling point, sprinkle in carefully the rye meal, stirring all the while. Cover the sauce -pan, pushing it to the back of the stove, and cook slowly one hour. This should be the consistency of oatmeal breakfast porridge. If rye flour is substituted for rye meal, the mixture will be pasty. WHEAT GERM CEREALS We have in the market a long list of breakfast foods quite independent and different from the common cereals, of which Wheat let, Wheat ena, Farinose, Yuca, Germea, Wheat Germ, Vitos and the Ralston Breakfast Food, are types. These may be cooked after a common rule, and one may be substituted for the other. They are composed principally of wheat germ, mixed with farina or middlings. WHEAT LET BREAKFAST PORRIDGE 1/2 pint of wheat let 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 quart of boiling water Bring the water to a rapid boil directly over the fire, add the salt and sprinkle in the wheat let, stirring all the while; stir and boil for about five minutes; then stand it in a water bath, that is, another vessel of boiling water, and cook slowly for thirty to forty minutes. Serve with whole milk. Left-over wheat let may be used the same as oatmeal or farina. MOLDED WHEAT LET Cook the wheat let according to preceding recipe; turn it into individual molds, and stand aside on the ice. Serve for breakfast with either plain or whipped cream. Or the centres may be scooped out, filled with fruit, and served with whipped cream as a breakfast or luncheon dish. WHEATLET SOUFFLE 1 pint of milk 1/2 cup of wheat let 4 eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Put the milk in a double boiler, when hot add the salt and sprinkle the wheat let in slowly; stir until smooth and slightly thickened. Add the yolks of the eggs, mix, and take from the fire; fold in the well beaten whites, turn into a baking dish, and bake in a moderate oven thirty to forty minutes. Serve with roasted beef in the place of Yorkshire pudding. DELICATE AND EASILY DIGESTED Cream of Wheat, farina and similar preparations are excellent summer foods. Farina is one of the most delicate of cereals for invalids and children; it is more easily digested than the whole grains rolled. It does not, however, contain as much nourishment. FARINA PORRIDGE Put one quart of boiling water in a saucepan directly over the fire; add a level teaspoonful of salt, and then sprinkle in slowly a half pint of farina, stirring all the while. Boil rapidly for ten minutes, then stand in a pan of boiling water, or in a double boiler, and cook twenty minutes longer. Left-over farina may be cut into blocks, dipped in egg and bread crumbs, and fried; or may be used as a thickening for soups, or in timbales with fruit and cream. FARINA SOUFFLé 1 pint of milk 1/2 cup of farina 4 eggs 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler, sprinkle the farina in slowly, stirring all the while; cook until it begins to thicken. Take from the fire, add the salt and the yolks; then fold in the well beaten whites of the eggs; turn into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven about thirty minutes. Serve as an accompaniment to roasted or panned chicken. BAKED FARINA 1/2 pint of farina 1 1/2 pints of milk 1/2 pint of chopped pecan nuts 1 level teaspoonful of salt Heat the milk in a double boiler, put the farina in slowly, stirring all the while; add the salt and nuts, and when the mixture begins to thicken, turn it into a baking dish and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve as a luncheon or supper dish. FARINA PATé Turn cold boiled farina into a one pound baking powder box; stand it aside until very cold. Cut it into slices one inch thick, and scoop out the centre of each slice, being careful to leave a bottom. Fill the spaces with berries or finely chopped peaches. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, beat again until dry and glossy. Dust the fruit with powdered sugar, cover it with meringue, and dust this with powdered sugar; place the patés in a moderate oven to brown. Serve at once with plain cream or soft custard. A nice plain dessert. FARINA JELLY 4 tablespoonfuls of farina 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 pint of milk Heat the milk in a double boiler; when hot sprinkle the farina in slowly. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken, then boil without stirring for thirty minutes. Turn into small molds, and stand away to cool. Serve with plain or whipped cream. GLUTEN FOODS These are made from the glutenous portions of wheat, and contain but little starch. Among those to be recommended are the Royal Health Food, Glutena and Gluten Breakfast Food. They are more quickly prepared than foods contain-ing starch. Being rich in proteids, they are better served with cream than milk. To each quart of rapidly boiling water allow a cupful of the gluten foods. Sprinkle the dry food in slowly, stirring all the while; cook thirty minutes, and serve hot with cream. COOKED, READY FOR SERVING We have an endless variety of the so-called prepared and partly prepared breakfast foods. Some are to be highly recommended; others are inferior. Granose, Grape Nuts, malted biscuits, Force, and Norka are types and may be chosen in the order given. Simply warm or toast them' for a few minutes in the oven to renew their crispness, and serve with fruit, fruit juice or cream. BREAD The use of bread, in every family in this country, three times a day, makes this one of the most important departments. Wheat occupying the most prominent place in bread making, will have our first consideration. Many varieties are grown, but, for our special purposes here, they will be considered as the hard spring and the winter wheats. The first is sown in the spring and harvested in the late summer; the winter wheat is sown in the fall, sprouts, remains in the ground all winter, and is harvested about the same time as spring wheat. The winter wheats arc grown in warm climates; the spring wheats in northern cold climates. With our present system of milling we are enabled to get from the hard spring wheat more gluten, muscle-building foods, than can be obtained from the soft winter wheats. As the price of flour is determined by the amount of gluten it contains, spring wheat flour is more expensive than the softer winter wheat flour. In the end, however, it is cheaper, as a given weight produces a greater quantity of bread. It holds more water and requires different handling, but makes bread making quite easy, compared to the old fashioned soft flours. Most of the better grades of bread flours in common use are blended spring and winter, and, provided the blending is largely spring, the mixture is desirable. Two common names are used to distinguish the spring and winter flour. Strong flour, that rich in gluten, is frequently sold under the name of Minnesota Patent; the soft winter wheat flours, St. Louis Patent. In northern cities from Maine to Philadelphia, spring wheat, or a richly blended flour, is almost exclusively used for bread making. South, where hot breads are used daily, we find only the soft grades. While these are easily converted into hot bread, they cannot be made into good yeast "light" breads. A good bread flour should be a rich, creamy yellow, rather coarse grained, so that it will fall apart, even after hard pressure in the hand." It cannot be packed. Soft winter flour should be a creamy yellow, soft under pressure, and easily packed in the hand. Genuine pastry flour is of a pale, yellowish white, fine, very starchy, and easily retains the form of the hand under pressure. This comes from the first and second boltings of either spring or winter wheat, usually winter. It is sold in cartons under various fancy names, and is especially desirable for such delicate batters as sunshine cake, angel food, souffles and puff paste. In small communities where the genuine pastry flour is not attainable, use in its place a good quality of winter wheat flour. Avoid bluish white or grayish tinted flour; it is low-grade, and will make inferior bread. White flour is poorer in calcium phosphate than wheat itself. The housewife, after studying the table of comparative analysis, can decide for herself which flour is best for her family. The struggle for existence in these days is so keen, that many people recommend wheat bread on account of its easy digestibility, especially in families where large quantities of meat are used. "Whole wheat" flour is made from the whole wheat grain deprived of the outside bran and frequently the germ. It should be a rich dark brown in color, rather granulated or coarse. Good whole wheat flour contains all the albuminoids and the nutritive mineral matter of the wheat. In purchasing, select that free from large particles of bran. The outside husk is composed largely of cellulose, is indigestible and objectionable. If it becomes necessary to use bran now and then for medicinal purposes, to keep up the natural peristaltic conditions of the intestine, use Boston brown bread or a loaf of bran bread. Do not constantly mix bran with good whole wheat flour. Bread made from whole wheat flour is desirable for both adults and children, and is especially important to nursing mothers. It supplies the alkaline phosphates which contribute to the formation of the required salts in the body; and also contains the elements necessary for the building of bone and tooth structure. It may be possibly a little more difficult of digestion than white bread, but one can certainly get more true food from the same quantity. Much of the Graham flour sold in our markets is composed of white flour, mixed with a goodly quantity of outside bran and a small portion of ''shorts" or "middling." These bran particles are indestructible in the digestive tract, hence, are irritating, and, if taken with other foods, hurry them through the intestines, without giving time for proper digestion or absorption. Bran bread or Graham is to be recommended in cases of constipation, but should be spread with a little nut butter and masticated thoroughly, and taken without other food as a night meal. Constant irritation of the intestine is not only unwise, but dangerous. Better by far stimulate the intestines, and bring about a healthy action, than to depend entirely upon local irritation. The "gluten" flour in the market is rich in albuminoids, but always contains a slight percentage of starch. By repeated experiments, I find that thoroughly washed dough, whereby all elements, except glutin are removed, is incapable of being made into light bread with the ordinary yeast plant. If a little sugar or starch is added, fermentation takes place at once. Different flour, even from the same mill, ground at the same grinding, will frequently require different quantities of liquid. Hence, in a recipe for bread, we give the exact amount of liquid and yeast, allowing more or less flour as required. A little practice will soon determine the quantity of flour needed, so that the housewife may always have bread of uniform quality. THE LIQUIDS used for bread making may be milk, water, half milk and half water, or whey. With our present system of milling, potatoes added to the sponge make an inferior quality of bread; and the water in which potatoes are boiled frequently contains a poisonous alkaloid, and should not be used for bread moistening. During the summer months, or where hard coal fires are kept over night, the liquids may be used cool, or just tepid, not over a temperature of 90° Fahr. In winter, about 98° Fahr. To make good, wholesome sweet bread do not use such materials as lard, butter or sugar. If the yeast is of poor quality, that is, if you are doubtful about its activity, add a little sugar. Good bread cannot be made from poor yeast, but the sugar will aid the growth of the few living plants present, and make the bread a little more porous. It is the least of two evils. Such materials as lard or butter retard the action of yeast, and prevent the bread from being sweet and wholesome. Salt, in small quantities, acts as a "guard keeper," holding the action of the yeast; too much salt will overpower the yeast and make the bread heavy. Personally I use a little salt only in warm weather. Bread sponged over night with home-made or bakers' yeast is liable to sour in warm weather; hence, it is desirable to add salt, but where all the materials are of the best, salt is unnecessary. YEAST (Saccharomyces) Yeasts are living plants belonging to the fungi, plants devoid of chlorophyll; the variety best adapted to bread making is Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The conditions of bread making are such that it is impossible to have an absolutely pure yeast. In the first place, neither the flour, the vessels in which the bread is made, the milk nor the water, is sterile, and the yeast has been handled; all these prevent a pure culture; and the wild yeasts and bacteria floating constantly in the air, mingle more or less with the bread sponge. In fact, there is made in this country a light bread called salt rising or "emptyings" bread, in which the housewife depends entirely upon the wild yeast plants of the air and the accompanying bacteria. This is called "leaven" bread. The "leaven" is the salt -rising. Many persons have used this bread for years and still feel that it is preferable to yeast bread. Those who speak in its favor, are persons who have never studied bacteriology. It keeps moist (if moist breads are desirable, and I doubt it,) longer than yeast breads. Chemists have given, and are still giving, much time and thought to the cultivation of pure yeasts, and to the selections of varieties best adapted to beer and bread making. The German, or compressed yeasts, sold in almost every city and town, are fresh and active. Being compressed, each cake contains much more true yeast in a small space, than can be obtained in dry cakes or home made yeast, which enables the busy housewife to make good bread quickly and easily. Allow only four hours from the beginning of the operation to the baking of the bread. Bread, quickly made, is sweet, light and sightly. When sponged at night, the temperature changes during the standing, and the conditions are not suited to the best growth of the yeast plant; such bread is apt to be of an inferior quality. As soon as the "sponge" is made, the diastase begins at once to transform starch into sugar, upon which the yeast "feeds," decomposing it into alcohol and carbon dioxid. The bubbles, carbon dioxid, are held by the batter, giving the mass a light porous appearance. These, with the baking, are chemical changes in bread making. The mixing, beating, kneading and molding, are purely mechanical. A perfect loaf should be light and porous, that the digestive secretions may penetrate easily, palatable, and still retain the nutritive principles of the wheat grain, well baked, to rupture the starch cells and to kill the yeast plant; and the loaf should be sightly, with a crisp, thin, light brown crust. MANIPULATION Thoroughly mix the flour, liquid and yeast. This is best accomplished first by beating, then kneading. Each little grain of flour must be carefully surrounded by water to hydrate the starch, dissolve the natural sugar of the wheat, and moisten the glutin. This kneading makes the glutin elastic, and causes the constituents to adhere one to the other, forming a fine grained dough. In most households, I am very sorry to say, the hands are still used for the purpose of kneading. A kneading machine is much more hygienic. It is almost impossible to make the hands sterile, and at the same time safe for bread kneading. Materials for the thorough cleansing of the hands would be poisonous to the food. Small bread -kneading machines for family use can be purchased from $4.50 to $10, and are certainly desirable. The longer the batter is beaten, the less time is required for kneading. When the dough becomes elastic and loses its stickiness, it is said to be sufficiently worked. The excellence of the bread, the shape of the loaf, the even distribution of the air cells, and the elasticity of the dough, depend upon the thoroughness of the kneading. The next operation, the molding, is of equal importance. After the dough is very light, it should be molded carefully. It does not require a second kneading. The molding is simply to shape it into loaves to fit the pans selected for the baking. BAKING The ideal loaf should not weigh over one and a half pounds when put in the pan; the perfect bread pan is made of Russian iron, size, four inches at the top, three at the bottom, and nine inches long. The yeast plant is destroyed at a temperature of 212° Fahr. It is quite impossible to bring the centre of a large loaf of bread, even in a very hot oven, to this temperature. For this reason, small loaves are preferable. Two loaves cannot be baked in the same pan to advantage. In breaking them apart, one side is exposed to the air without the covering of a crust. Under such circumstances the bread will dry quickly, or become tasteless or moldy; the crust is a protection. Plunge a thermometer into the centre of a large loaf, as you take it from the oven; it will in all probability register about 200° Fahr. Such bread is not thoroughly baked, and is unwholesome. Ordinary loaves should be placed in an oven at a temperature of 360° Fahr., and baked for three-quarters of an hour, cooling the oven to 300° Fahr. after twenty minutes' baking. With a register, the "hand" will point to eight for twenty minutes; then cool to seven, and bake at this temperature for twenty minutes longer. Bake rolls and light biscuits in a quick oven, at a temperature of 400° Fahr. With a register, the "hand" will point to nine. All small breads should crust quickly; then the temperature may be reduced about one-third. Be careful that the 1 Roll Pans 2 Perfect Russian Pan 3 Muffin Pans 4 Pop Over Pans 5 French Bread Pans, Russian Iron 6 French Bread Pan Page 492 An illustration of Different Baking Pans used in the kitchen. Vienna Rolls Page 501 An illustration of Vienna Rolls. oven is not too hot at first, or the heavy crust will prevent the heat from penetrating the centre of the loaf, and the bread will be underdone. The rapid evaporation of water on the outside of the loaf during the process of baking, subjects the starch to a high heat, which changes it to dextrin; the sugar at the same time is caramelized, and a sweet crust is formed. These same changes are observed in the second cooking of bread, of which zwieback, toast and pulled bread are examples. To test the oven without a thermometer, put a little flour on the bottom of the oven, and if it chars quickly it is too hot; if it browns slowly, while you count forty (40 seconds), it is just hot enough for bread. Thermometers cost but $2.50, and relieve one of all anxiety and guesswork. TO KEEP As soon as the bread is taken from the oven, place it on a wire screen, or tip it on end, that the air may circulate freely around each loaf. Do not cover it even with a light cloth, as in this way moisture is held, which destroys the crispness of the crust and makes the crumb heavy. Bread keeps best when gradually cooled. Place, when perfectly cold, in a clean, light, cool, dry closet. Do not air the bread box after it has been scrubbed and scalded. Dry it over the fire, and close it to keep out the dust. Dust carries with it germs of mold, which grow rapidly upon the bread, spoiling its quality. DISEASES OF BREAD In spite of the utmost care on the part of the housewife, bread frequently becomes diseased from damp conditions and yeasts. These diseases are sometimes due to impurities in the flour. Mildew is perhaps one of the most common diseases of flour. Baking does not always kill the germs. Many diseases arise from fungous growths. One very common to whole wheat bread, in hot weather, develops first in the centre of the loaf, the mycelium sending out delicate branches throughout the whole loaf?-a sort of cobweb condition. This bread is unwholesome and unpalatable. To remedy this, change the yeast and the place of keeping. When once the room in which the yeast is made becomes affected with this fungus, it is almost impossible to eradicate it. Molds undoubtedly produce derangements of the stomach, even after the bread has been toasted. There can be little doubt that all such breads, including the common sour or musty breads, are unwholesome, and should not be eaten. All these conditions are favored by dampness and darkness. For this reason do not wrap the bread, as the moisture of cotton or linen mildews it quickly, and contaminates the bread. Observe scrupulous cleanliness. This injunction may be given in all household matters, as the same conditions which spoil bread also spoil the jellies and preserves. Scald out the bread pan each time before sponging the bread. Scald the board and wipe it, before kneading the bread. Put the bread into the bread riser, or cover it in a bread pan while it is stand-ing to rise. Bake it and take it to the cleanest and lightest closet to cool. Do not keep bread in stone or wood, nor in the cellar; both flour and bread should be stored in dry places. HOME MADE YEAST Pare and grate four good-sized potatoes into one quart of boiling water, and boil five minutes, stirring constantly. When cool, add half a cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of salt, and one compressed yeast cake dissolved in a half cup of cool water, or a half cup of yeast that you have saved from the previous brewing. Turn the mixture in a stone or glass jar, cover and stand in a warm place (68° Fahr.) for at least three hours, stirring down the mixture each time it comes to the top of the vessel. When fermentation has ceased, cover the jar closely and stand in a cool place to keep. CAUTION.-?The yeast must not be allowed to fall; it must be stirred down. It must be put into a cool place as soon as fermentation ceases. A large bottle is a good and convenient receptacle for keeping. Save a half cupful of this yeast to Corn Meal Loaf Page 497 An illustration of a Corn Meal loaf. German Potato Bread Page 499 An illustration of a German Potato Bread. Twentieth Century Bread Page 495 An illustration of a Twentieth Century bread. Pulled Bread Page 506 An illustration of a Pulled Bread. Milk Biscuits Page 509 An illustration of Milk Biscuits. start the next brewing. It will keep in a cool place in the winter for three weeks, in the summer ten days to two weeks A cupful of this yeast will make four loaves of bread, sponge made at night. TWENTIETH CENTURY BREAD This bread, of course, is made from whole wheat flour. The liquids used may be either milk, or milk and water, or all water. 1 pint of milk 1 crompressed yeast cake 1 pint of water 1 level teaspoonful of salt Scald the milk, 180° Fahr., being very careful not to allow it to boil. Scald and add the water. When the mixture is lukewarm, add the yeast, dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of cool sterilized water, the salt, and then stir in sufficient whole wheat flour (about 1 quart) to make a stiff batter. Beat continuously for five minutes, lifting the dough into the air and folding it over. Remove the spoon and scrape down the sides of the bowl, cover with a cloth, or in a bread pan with the ordinary tin cover, and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.), in winter for three hours, in summer for two and a half hours. By this time the mixture will be light and spongy. Stir in, slowly, sufficient whole wheat flour to make a dough. Turn this out on the bread board, which has been slightly dusted with flour, knead continuously until the dough is soft and elastic and has lost its stickiness. With a sharp knife, cut the dough into four portions; mold each into a loaf; put into greased square pans, cover, and stand in the same warm place one hour, or until the dough has doubled its bulk and feels very light when lifted. Brush the top carefully with warm water, using for the purpose the pastry brush, and place it in a moderately quick oven (360°) for three-quarters of an hour. When done, turn at once from the pans, resting the loaves so that the air will pass around them, and when perfectly cool, put them into a clean tin bread box. If homemade yeast is used, add a cupful, making the sponge at night; stand it in a warm place (about 60° Fahr.), from, say ten o'clock until five or six the next morning; add flour and knead it, and mold at once into loaves. The time for second standing must also be increased from one to two or three hours. WHITE BREAD 1 pint of milk 1 compressed yeast cake 1 pint of water 1 level teaspoonful of salt Scald the milk, add the water, and, when lukewarm, add the yeast cake, dissolved, and the salt; mix and add one quart of good strong flour; beat five minutes; then continue adding the flour, stirring all the while until you have the dough sufficiently thick for kneading. Dust the board with flour, turn out the dough, and knead thoroughly until it is soft and elastic and perfectly free from stickiness. Do not add too much flour at a time; it is the kneading that removes the stickiness, not the flour. The bread is dry and tasteless where too much flour is added. The grain will be finer and the dough whiter and more elastic, if you devote the last five minutes to pounding with a good strong potato masher, or you may take the dough in your hand and drop it on the board. Put this back into the bowl or pan, cover and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.) for three hours. Now turn it out on the board, and carefully cut it into four loaves. Mold each, put into greased pans, either the long French or the square pans, cover and stand aside one hour; if in the square pans, bake in a moderately quick oven (indicator at eight) for about three-quarters of an hour; if in the long French pans, in a quick oven (indicator at nine-?temperature 400° Fahr.) for thirty minutes. Where homemade yeast is used, sponge must be made at night, using a half cupful of yeast. The dough must be kneaded early in the morning. GRAHAM BREAD To make one loaf of Graham bread, take one pint of whole wheat sponge when it is light and ready for kneading, add to it a tablespoonful of molasses, and sufficient Graham flour to make a stiff batter. Beat thoroughly, turn into a square greased pan, and when it has doubled its bulk and is light in weight, bake it in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.) about three quarters of an hour. GLUTEN BREAD 1 quart of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt Whites of two eggs 1 compressed yeast cake Scald the milk, and when lukewarm, add the salt and yeast cake dissolved, and stir in slowly, beating all the while, one quart of gluten flour. Beat the whites of the eggs lightly, add them to the mixture, and then continue adding the gluten flour until it will drop rather than pour from the spoon. Beat thoroughly, and pour into three square greased bread pans, filling them about one-half full. Cover, and stand in a warm place until the pans are two-thirds full, and they feel light when lifted. Brush with water, and put into the oven at 300° Fahr. Bake one hour. This bread should be rather fine grained, porous and very sweet. If it seems sticky in the centre it has not been well baked, or it has been baked too quickly. CORN MEAL LOAF 1 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of white flour 1 pint of water 1 compressed yeast cake, Corn meal Put the milk and water into a double boiler over the fire. When hot, stir in two-thirds of a measuring cupful of granu-lated yellow or white corn meal. Stir this until it thickens, then allow it to stand over the fire to keep hot for twenty minutes. Take from the fire, and when lukewarm, add a level teaspoonful of salt, and the yeast cake, dissolved in a quarter cupful of cool water. Beat into this the flour, cover and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.) for three hours, until it has doubled its bulk, is light and porous. Begin to add slowly sufficient white or whole wheat flour to make a dough that can be turned out on the board and kneaded thoroughly. The dough must become elastic and lose its stickiness. Cut into three loaves; mold, place them in greased square bread pans, cover, and stand in the same warm place for one and one-half hours, or again until very light and porous. Brush the top with water, and bake in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.) for three-quarters of an hour. OATMEAL BREAD 1 pint of rolled oats 1 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 pint of water 1 yeast cake Put the water over the fire, and when boiling stir in hastily the oatmeal. Stir until the mixture thickens, and then stand it in the double boiler where it will cook slowly for thirty minutes. Take it from the fire, add the milk, the salt, and, when lukewarm, the yeast cake, dissolved in a quarter cupful of cold water. Add slowly, stirring all the while, sufficient whole wheat flour to make a dough. This bread is better if a little moist. It must be stirred and beaten with a paddle, rather than kneaded on the board. When it is too stiff to drop from the spoon, scrape down the sides of the bowl, cover and stand in a warm place, 75° Fahr., for three hours. Then add just a little more flour, mix again, and pour into three greased square pans. Stand in the same warm place for one hour. Bake in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.), for three-quarters of an hour. RYE BREAD 1 pint of milk 1 yeast cake 1 pint of water 1 level teaspoonful of salt The manipulation of this bread is precisely the same as for whole wheat bread. Follow the recipe for whole wheat bread, substituting in your mind the word " rye " for "whole wheat. " BARLEY BREAD 1 pint of water 1/2 pint of barley flakes 1 pint of milk 1 compressed yeast cake 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Put the barley flakes in the water, bring to boiling point, and cook in a double boiler thirty minutes. Add the salt and milk, and, when lukewarm, the yeast cake, dissolved in a quarter of a cup of warm water; add a half pint of whole wheat flour, beat thoroughly, and stand aside for three hours. When light, add sufficient whole wheat flour to make a dough Knead thoroughly and carefully for ten minutes. Divide the mixture into three loaves, place them in square, greased pans, cover and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.) until the dough has doubled its bulk, about one hour. Bake three-quarters of an hour at a temperature of 300° Fahr., or with the indicator "hand" at 8. This bread may be varied by adding half barley and half rolled oats, or half barley and half corn meal. If well made, it is very sweet, palatable and wholesome. GERMAN potato BREAD Peel two good-sized potatoes weighing a half pound, cover them with boiling water, boil ten minutes; drain this water off and throw it away; cover with one quart of freshly boiling water. Cook the potatoes until tender; press them through a sieve, add the water in which they were boiled, and, hastily, a half pint of flour; beat thoroughly until smooth. Add a level teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of sugar. When this is lukewarm, add one yeast cake dissolved in a quarter of a cup of warm water; cover, and stand this in a warm place (about 80° Fahr.) for one hour. Then add a pint of milk that has been scalded and cooled, and sufficient white flour to make a batter. Beat thoroughly for fifteen minutes, cover, and stand aside for one hour longer, or until very light. Add one egg well beaten, and stir in sufficient flour to make a dough; knead thoroughly until soft and elastic, about fifteen minutes; then pound with a potato masher, fold-ing the dough, about five minutes longer. Form it into a large loaf, put it back into the bowl, and stand it in a warm place for one and a half hours, until it has doubled its bulk. When very light turn it out on a board, roll it to a sheet a half inch thick, cut it in small biscuits with a round cutter, place them in gem pans or shallow greased pans, sufficiently far apart not to touch in the baking. Cover and stand in a warm place until very light, about three-quarters of an hour. Brush the tops with milk, put them into a very quick oven and bake twenty minutes. After they have been baking fifteen minutes, brush the tops with glaze made by beating the white of an egg, a tablespoonful of water and a tablespoonful of sugar together until thoroughly mixed. Put the biscuits back into the oven to fix the glaze. RICE DINNER ROLLS 1/2 pint of cold boiled rice 1/2 pint of milk 1 egg 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 compressed yeast cake Put the rice in the milk and heat in a double boiler to the temperature of 200° Fahr.; then press through a sieve. Add the salt, and, when lukewarm, add the yeast cake dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of warm water; add a half pint of bread flour, beat thoroughly, and stand in a warm place for two hours. Add the egg well beaten and sufficient flour to make a dough. Knead until the dough is soft and elastic, about fifteen minutes. Form into tiny rolls about the size of an English walnut; place them in greased gem pans, or shallow pans, sufficiently far apart not to touch in the baking; cover, and stand aside in a warm place for one hour, or until very light. Bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. Glaze them on top at the end of the baking and put them back in the oven just a moment to fix the glaze. These must be small, very crisp and light. This mixture may be baked in bread stick pans and used with soup. BREAD STICKS These may be made either from the Nineteenth Century whole wheat bread dough or from the ordinary white dough. When the bread is sufficiently light to mold, take off about a tablespoonful and form it into a roll not larger than a lead pencil, and put it at once in a greased stick pan. They will double their bulk before baking, and are not sightly when large. They must be crisp and well baked. Stand for thirty minutes in a warm place, brush them with warm water, and bake them in a quick oven (400° Fahr.) for fifteen minutes. SMALL BREADS VIENNA ROLLS 1 pint of milk 1 yeast cake 2 tablespoonfuls (two ounces) of butter 1/2 level teaspoonful of salt Scald the milk in a double boiler. Take from the fire, and add butter and salt. When this is lukewarm, add the yeast cake dissolved in a quarter of a cup of warm water. Stir in sufficient white flour to make a soft dough, turn it out on the board; knead continuously for ten minutes, and then fold, and pound with a potato masher for five minutes longer. Put the dough back in the bowl, cover, and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.) until it has doubled its bulk, about three and one-half hours. Turn out carefully on the board without kneading or manipulating, pinch off a little piece, make it into a rounded biscuit, and stand it in a greased pan; so continue until the pan is filled, allowing plenty of room for spreading, so that the rolls, when light, will not touch each other. Cover the pan, and stand in the same warm place for one hour. They should be very light. If the room is cold, it may take thirty minutes longer. Now with a sharp knife cut each biscuit across the top both ways. Brush with a tablespoonful of white of egg and water beaten together. Bake in a quick oven (400° Fahr.) for twenty minutes. If they are to be highly glazed draw them from the oven about two minutes before they are done, and again brush the tops with the water and white of egg. Put them back to glaze. These may be made into any of the numerous forms used by the Vienna bakers. POCKET-BOOK ROLLS 1 1/2 quarts of bread flour 1 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls (two ounces) of butter 1 yeast cake Put the milk in a double boiler over the fire, and when the water in the underneath part is boiling the milk is sufficiently scalded. Take it from the fire and stand aside to cool. Rub the butter thoroughly into the flour; add the salt. Make a good-sized well in the centre of the flour, dissolve the yeast cake in a half cupful of cool water, add it to the milk, and pour it in the centre of the well; with your fingers dust the flour from the side of the bowl over the top of the milk. Cover the bowl and stand aside in a warm place (75° Fahr.) for three hours. Then stir in gradually all the flour. Take this rather soft dough out on the board, and knead continuously for fifteen minutes, in which time the dough will lose all its stickiness and become soft and elastic. If the proportions are right and the quality of the flour good, extra flour will not be required for kneading. Pound with a potato masher, folding the dough back as it flattens out. Roll in a sheet a half inch thick; cut with a round cutter; with a knife handle, make a sort of hinge in the centre of each; brush one-half with a little carefully melted butter, and fold over the other half, and just inside of the edge, press the two together. Stand these in a greased pan, sufficiently far apart not to touch when they are very light. Cover the pan, stand in the same warm place for one and a half hours, or until they are very light. Brush the tops lightly with milk, and bake in a quick oven (400° Fahr.) for twenty minutes. BREAKFAST ROLLS 1 pint of water 1/3 of a compressed yeast cake 1/2 teaspoonful of salt If these are to be served warm for breakfast, a portion of the manipulation must be done the night before. At seven o'clock dissolve the yeast in a quarter of a cup of cool water, add it to the warm water, add the salt and about one pint of good bread flour. Beat for five minutes, and stand aside in a cool place for three or four hours. At, say, ten or half past, add sufficient flour to make a dough. Knead thoroughly until it becomes elastic. Roll out in a sheet a half inch thick, cut with a round cutter, make a hinge as in the pocket-book rolls; brush one half lightly with butter, fold over the other. Press the two together, and stand in a greased baking pan ready tor baking. Cover these pans carefully with a bread cloth and stand in a cool place (about 55° Fahr.), the refrigerator or cellar floor. In the morning brush the tops with milk, put them in a warm place ten minutes, until the oven is very hot (400° Fahr.). Bake twenty minutes. By experimenting I find that rolls are just as good when baked in the afternoon and re-heated in a quick oven in the morning. This saves considerable unnecessary work in the morning, and the rolls have gained by the second baking. GERMAN CRESCENTS 1 pint of milk 1 yeast cake 24 almonds 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 3 tablespoonfuls(three ounces) of butter 1/2 a level tablepoonful of salt White of one egg Put the milk into a double boiler, and when hot take from the fire; add three tablespoonfuls of the sugar. When lukewarm, add the yeast cake, dissolved in a quarter of a cup of cool water; add the salt, mix, and stir in carefully about one pint of bread flour. Beat for at least ten minutes; then add slowly sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Work this in the bowl until it loses its thickness; it must not be stiff like bread. Cover the bowl and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.) for three and a half hours. Then turn the dough out on a well flour ed board; roll it in a large thin sheet a half inch thick; cut with a crescent cutter, or a round cake cutter, using only one-half of it. Stand these in a greased baking pan sufficiently far apart not to touch in the baking; cover and put in a warm place for one hour, or until very light. Beat the white of an egg, the remaining tablespoonful of sugar with one tablespoonful of milk, until well mixed. Blanch, chop and dry the almonds. Bake the crescents in a very hot oven (400° Fahr.) for ten minutes; draw them quickly to the oven door and brush the tops with the egg mixture, sprinkle freely with the almonds. Put them back in the oven five minutes longer. These are exceedingly nice served without butter, with salad. ENGLISH MUFFINS 1 pint of milk 2 tablespoonfuls (two ounces) of butter 1 yeast cake 1 pint of good bread flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the milk into a double boiler; when hot, take from the fire and add the butter. When cool, add the yeast cake, dissolved in a quarter of a cup of water, and the salt. Beat in gradually the flour. Cover and stand in a warm place for two hours, or until very light. Heat gradually a cake griddle; grease lightly English muffin rings, and arrange them on the griddle. Fill each ring half full with the batter; cook slowly until they are sufficiently light to fill the rings. Then turn the whole with a cake turner, that is turn the muffin, ring and all; cook slowly on the other side for a few minutes, and lift off the rings. Allow muffins to cook slowly ten minutes longer. These may be served warm, to those who can eat warm yeast breads; but they are much better pulled into halves, and toasted until crisp and brown. THE SECOND COOKING OF BREAD Under this heading will be found all forms of bread twice baked or toasted, such as zwieback, plain toast, water, milk or cream toast, pulled bread, and toast fingers. We make zwieback for two reasons. First, to harden the bread, making mastication necessary. The primary digestion of bread is in the mouth; hence, it must be thoroughly mixed with the saliva. Second, a portion of the starch has been converted into dextrin. Bread simply toasted on one side, turned and quickly toasted on the other, leaving the soft crumb in the centre, buttered while hot, is perhaps the most indigestible and undesirable of bread foods. It forms a bolus in mastication, which resists the stomach actions. It passes into the small intestine unprepared, and is crowded on to clog the intestine, producing gas, flatulency and constipation. ZWIEBACK Cut bread or rusks in slices a half inch thick. Place them on paper, in a shallow baking pan; stand in a mild oven (about 200° Fahr.) until thoroughly dry to the very centre. It is wise to leave the oven door open. If zwieback is browned too quickly on the outside, it does not readily become crisp. When dry, close the door, and slightly increase the heat, until each slice is a golden brown and dry to the centre. This will keep in a tin box in a dry, light closet for a month. DRY TOAST Cut from a one-day old loaf of bread slices a half inch thick. Put them on paper in the bottom of a baking pan in a moderate oven to dry. When dry, place them in a toaster and hold sufficiently far from the fire to slowly brown the outside without scorching. Send at once to the table. Butter while eating. Burned bread is objectionable, and has a bad flavor, no matter how much of the outside is scraped off. WATER TOAST is made by dipping dry toast quickly into a dish of boiling water; spread it with butter, and send it at once to the table. MILK TOAST is made by pouring scalding hot milk over dry toast. A table-spoonful of butter may be added to each quart of milk. To prevent scorching, heat the milk in a double boiler. CAUTION.-?The main point is to pour the milk over the crisp warm toast at the very last moment, and serve quickly. CREAM TOAST Put one quart of milk in a double boiler. When hot, add one tablespoonful of cornstarch, moistened in three tablespoonfuls of cold milk. Cook, and stir until it is the consistency of cream; add one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, and pour it at once over warm toast. BREAD FINGERS Cut the bread in slices lengthwise of the loaf. Trim off the crusts, and cut each slice into strips one inch wide and five inches long. Dry and toast the same as zwieback. They are usually served with soup or salad. PULLED BREAD The bread must be very light, thoroughly baked and perfectly cool before pulling. French bread is best. Whittle off the outside crust, then with two forks pick or pull the loaves into halves. Divide each half into quarters, and the quarters into eighths. Place these strips, ragged edges upward, in a long shallow baking pan that has been lined with soft brown paper. Stand the pan in the oven, leave the door open until each strip is dry to the centre. Close the door, slowly increase the heat, and bake until the pieces are a golden brown and crisp. This may be kept the same as zwieback. After the first day, reheat at serving time. BAKING POWDER BREADS During the fermentation, in the process of wine making, an acid material settles, in the form of a crust or scales, on' the sides and bottoms of the casks. It is this material, known as argols, from which cream of tartar and tartaric acid are made. The argols are carefully washed, dissolved in boiling water and drawn off into copper tanks. As the solution cools, a thick crust forms over the entire surface, which is taken off like cream from the surface of milk; hence, the name, "cream" of the tartar. It is then re-dissolved, purified, filtered, again crystallized, powdered, and sold under the name of " cream of tartar. " In the liquid remaining after the "cream" has been taken from the surface, is the tartaric acid, a much stronger acid than the first. Cream of tartar is frequently adulterated with starch, alum and other materials, which accounts for the failure of "homemade baking powders." The best commercial powders are, as a rule, well made and free from adulterations; being thoroughly mixed and blended by several boltings, they give much better results than cream of tartar and soda hastily put together by an amateur. All baking powders used for bread making yield neutral salts, a portion of which remains in the dough. For this reason, great care must be taken to get the right proportion of soda and acid, to form as little residue as possible. The acid materials most commonly used for baking powders are cream of tartar, tartaric acid and acid phosphates. The alkaline material is universally bi- carbonate of soda. In some sections of New England, packages marked saleratus (potassium bi-carbonate) are still sold, but all the samples purchased under this name were found to be bi- carbonate of soda. The true value of baking powder depends upon the amount of gas liberated in the dough. Tartaric compounds are expensive, and this induces many housewives to take the cheaper substitutes, usually " alum " powders, which are possibly injurious; the salts formed by the decomposition of bi- carbonate of soda and alum, are not readily absorbed. All good baking powders contain a small amount of dry starch, as fine flour or cornstarch, which prevents the active ingredients from becoming moist after the box has been opened. "Unfilled" powders, those free from starch, lose their activity after being exposed to the atmosphere. The term " baking powder " is usually applied to the dry mixture sold in boxes or bottles. Here, however, they will be considered from a much broader standpoint. For instance, a mixture of soda with sour milk or molasses, or soda and vinegar, or lemon juice; all of these mixtures are capable of giving off" carbon dioxid, and have a "leavening" power. Our grandmothers used a saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda with half an ounce of vinegar, as a leavening to ordinary cakes. Lemon juice will answer the same purpose. All liquid mixtures, however, require deft manipulation, as the gas is evolved so quickly, when the two ingredients come together, that much of the lightness is lost unless they are at once mixed with the batter. For this reason dry powders give the best results. A level teaspoonful of soda added to a pint of New Orleans or Porto Rico molasses, will evolve sufficient gas to lighten a good sized cake. Cream of tartar and soda, when mixed with dough, act more deliberately than tartaric acid and soda; but with all these materials work rapidly and bake quickly to get a light, fine grained dough. To prevent mishaps, many housewives make whole wheat bread with baking powder instead of yeast. This robs it of the tendency to become sour and sodden; in fact, it will keep in a good condition as long as white bread. The baking powder loaf is porous and sweet. Carbon dioxid is evolved the same as with yeast; but one of the functions of yeast during fermentation is to act, on the albuminoids, and, to a certain extent, on the starch, the result of which imparts to the bread a peculiar, characteristic flavor that cannot be obtained by the use of baking powder. When cream of tartar and soda are to be substituted for baking powder, allow one level teaspoonful of soda to three level teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, in the place of two rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Mix and sift with the flour the same as baking powder. Use baking powder breads warm, yeast breads cold. TARTARIC ACID POWDER Three-quarters of a pound of tartaric acid, one pound of bi- carbonate of soda, six ounces of fine flour or cornstarch. Mix thoroughly and bolt or sift five or six times. Put into jars, cans or bottles, and cover closely. CREAM OF TARTAR POWDER One pound of bi- carbonate of soda, two pounds of pure cream of tartar, ten ounces of starch, flour or cornstarch. Mix, sift or bolt five or six times. Put into cans or jars, and fasten on cover tightly. MILK BISCUITS These are also called soda or baking powder biscuits. 1 quart of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1 2/3 cups of milk 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful (one ounce) of shortening Add the baking powder and salt to the flour, and sift twice. Rub in the shortening, which may be butter, cocoanut butter, olive oil, or lard and suet; olive oil, perhaps, is the most desirable. If cooking fats, such as cottolene or cotto- suet are used, a level tablespoonful will take the place of the rounding tablespoonful of the shortenings mentioned. Now see that the oven is very hot. Get the pans ready; dust the bottoms with flour, or grease them lightly. Add gradually the milk, mix quickly. Turn the dough on a flour ed baking board, knead lightly and quickly, roll out in a sheet a half inch thick, cut with a small round cake cutter, and stand the biscuits in the baking pan sufficiently far apart not to touch in the baking. Brush the tops with milk, and bake in a quick-oven (400° Fahr.) for fifteen or twenty minutes. If weIl made and well baked, they will be brown top and bottom, thoroughly cooked and light colored on the sides. They will swell four times their original bulk. WHOLE WHEAT, GRAHAM, or RYE BISCUITS, are made precisely the same. EGG ROLLS 1 quart of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 1/2 cups of milk 1 egg Add the salt and baking powder to the flour, and sift. Rub in the butter; beat the egg, add to it the milk, and add this gradually to the flour. The dough must be soft, but not too wet. Turn it out quickly, roll into a sheet a half inch in thickness, cut with a large round cutter. Dip a knife handle into flour, press down in the centre of each biscuit, making a sort of hinge; brush with half melted butter, fold over the layer, and press lightly together. Stand in a greased shallow pan sufficiently far apart not to touch in the cooking. Brush the tops with milk, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. FIG TURNOVERS Make precisely the same as egg rolls, using whole wheat flour. Have ready eight or ten pulled figs chopped fine. After making the hinge, put a tablespoonful of the fig mixture on half the roll, brush inside the edge with white of egg, fold over the other half, press the two together, brush with milk, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve warm with a pitcher of cream or milk. SWEET MILK SCONES 1 pint of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 cup of milk 1 rounding teaspoonful of baking powder 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Add the salt and baking powder to the flour and sift them. Rub in the butter, and mix gradually with the milk. This must be a dough, but sufficiently soft to drop from a spoon. Dip a tablespoon into boiling water, then take off a tablespoonful of the dough and drop it into a greased pan, and so continue until all are placed. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. OATMEAL SCONES 1 pint of left-over porridge 1/2 cup of milk 1 1/2 cups of whole wheat flour 1 teaspoonful of baking powder Sift the flour and baking powder gradually into the cold porridge and milk, mixing all the while. When the dough is well mixed, turn it out on the baking board and roll to a sheet a quarter of an inch thick. Cut with a round cutter, and bake on a greased griddle fifteen minutes. Heat the griddle gradually and put it to one side of the stove where the scones will bake slowly. If sticky you have not added sufficient flour; if dry, too much. Be careful not to add too much flour, or the scones will not be light. If too thin to roll, drop them by spoonfuls on the griddle. BREAKFAST MUFFINS OR GEMS 1/2 pint of milk 2 eggs 1 1/2 cups of flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of baking powder Separate the eggs, beat the yolks slightly. Add the milk and salt, then the flour and baking powder that have been sifted together. Fold in the well beaten whites, and fill at once in twelve greased gem pans; bake in a quick oven (400° Fahr.) twenty minutes. Page 512 is missing from the original text. beat thoroughly, and fold in the well beaten whites. Fill twelve greased gem pans, bake in a hot oven (360° Fahr.) for twenty minutes. Rye or Graham flour may be used in the same proportions as bread flour. These are exceedingly good for constipation, and must be, of course, thoroughly masticated. WAFFLES 1 quart of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 3 eggs 1 1/2 pints of milk 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder Rub the butter into the flour, add the salt and mix thoroughly. Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, add to them the milk, then add these to the flour. Beat for five minutes. Put the baking powder right in the centre of the batter, fold it down, and beat again; then stir in the well beaten whites, pour the mixture into a pitcher, and bake at once. CORN FLOUR WAFFLES Make precisely the same as white flour waffles, using one and a half pints of corn flour and a half pint of wheat flour. OATMEAL WAFFLES 1 pint of left-over porridge 1 pint of milk 3 eggs 1/2 pint of whole wheat flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder Add the milk to the porridge, then the salt and flour. Add the butter melted, and beat thoroughly. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add them; then fold in the baking powder, and beat again. At last, fold in the well beaten whites of the eggs, turn the mixture into a pitcher, and it is ready to bake. CORN BATTER BREAD 2 eggs 1/2 pint of corn meal 1/2 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter, melted 1/2 cup of white flour 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of baking powder Melt the butter over hot water; separate the eggs; beat the yolks slightly; add the milk, then the butter, corn meal, flour and salt. Beat thoroughly, add the baking powder, beat again, and fold in, carefully, the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a greased shallow baking pan in a moderate oven (360° Fahr.) for thirty-five minutes. Cut into squares, and serve warm. SOUR MILK AND SODA BREADS MISSISSIPPI CORN BREAD 1 quart of sour or butter milk 1 level tablespoonful of butter 1 quart and one-half pint of Southern corn meal 2 eggs 1 rounding teaspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda Dissolve the baking soda in two tablespoonfuls of warm water; add it to the milk, stir a moment, add the eggs well beaten, the butter, melted, and then the corn meal. Beat quickly, Turn at once in a shallow greased baking pan, and bake forty minutes in a moderate quick oven (360° Fahr.). Cut into squares and serve warm. SCOTCH SCONES 1 1/2 pints of flour 1 pint of thick sour butter-milk 1 level teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda Sift the flour in a bowl, add the soda well mashed, and sift the mixture four times. Make a well in the middle of the flour, and pour in the buttermilk; stir in the flour quickly and carefully. The mixture should be the consistency of soft bread dough. Take it out on a flour ed board, and knead lightly and quickly. Roll out to the thickness of one inch; cut into scones with an ordinary round tin cake cutter. Have ready heated a cake griddle; rub it with a little suet; put on the scones, and cook slowly for five minutes on one side, and turn and cook the other side. They should be cooked at least ten minutes, and may be turned several times during the cooking; they should be thoroughly done to the very centre and nicely browned on both sides. CORN MEAL SALLY LUNN 1/2 pint of sour cream 1/2 pint of sour milk 2 1/2 cupfuls of white corn meal 1 level teaspoonful of soda 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Mix the milk and cream; dissolve the soda in two tablespoonfuls of cool water; add to it the milk, stir a moment; add the salt and the corn meal. Turn into three greased pie tins, and bake in a moderately quick oven, about 300° Fahr., for a half hour. When done, butter each, placing them one on top of. another and send at once to the table. QUICK BREADS WITH EGGS POP OVERS 2 eggs 1/2 pint of flour 1/2 pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of salt Beat the eggs without separating until they are well mixed, not very light. Add to them the milk. Put into another bowl the flour, pastry flour preferred; add the salt, and pour into it gradually, beating all the while, the eggs and milk. Strain this batter through a sieve, into the first bowl. Have heated greased iron gem pans. Draw them from the fire, fill them two-thirds full with this thin batter, and bake in a moderately quick oven (360° Fahr.) about forty minutes. They must be baked until perfectly light in weight. If they fall, when taken from the oven, they have not been sufficiently baked. GERMAN PUFFS are the same, using four, instead of two eggs. These are usually served with a pudding sauce as dessert. WHOLE WHEAT POP OVERS are made according to the first rule. MUSH BREAD 1 pint of milk 4 eggs 1/2 pint of granulated yellow or white corn meal 1 saltspoonful of salt Put the milk into a double boiler; when hot, stir in slowly the corn meal; cook to a smooth mush that will pour, rather than drop, from the spoon. Take from the fire, and add the salt; drop the yolks in one at a time, stirring all the while; then fold in carefully the well beaten whites of the eggs. Turn into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven (360° Fahr.) for a half hour. Serve at once in the dish in which it was baked. This should be helped with a spoon and eaten with a fork; it is a soft or spoon bread, and one of the most delicious of the corn breads. Hominy grits left over from breakfast may be used in the same way. FRUIT MUSH BREAD Make plain mush bread according to the preceding recipe; pour it into a baking dish, the bottom of which has been thickly covered to the depth of a half inch with berries or sliced peaches or apples. Bake thirty minutes, and serve with a pitcher of cream for lunch. CORN PUFFS 1 quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of sugar 6 eggs 8 rounding tablespoonfuls of granulated yellow or white corn meal Put the milk into a double boiler, and when hot, stir in slowly the corn meal. Stir for at least five minutes, adding the sugar. Take from the fire, and when cold, stir in first the yolks and then the well beaten whites of the eggs. Pour at once into greased gem pans or pop-over cups, and bake thirty minutes in an oven at 360° Fahr. OATMEAL MUSH BREAD 1 pint of cold oatmeal porridge 1/2 pint of granulated corn meal 1/2 pound of dates 1/2 pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of salt 4 eggs Put the cold oatmeal and milk into a double boiler over the fire. When hot, slowly stir in the corn meal. Cook until the mixture begins to thicken, take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, one at a time, stirring all the while; then fold in carefully the well beaten whites, and pour the mixture in a greased shallow baking pan, the bottom of which has been covered with the chopped dates. The whole should not be over a half inch in thickness. Bake in a moderate oven (360° Fahr.) for a half hour. This is one of the most delicious of the quick breads, and is easily digested and wholesome if properly made. It must be crisp on top and not over three-quarters of an inch in thickness when done. It may be used as a bread, or dessert at lunch. It is very palatable and wholesome served with milk or cream. CORN MEAL DODGERS Put into a bowl one pint of white Southern corn meal. In the centre put a rounding tablespoonful of shortening. Pour over a half cupful of boiling water, moisten the corn meal, do not make it soft. Throw a towel over the bowl, and let it stand for a half hour. Beat one egg without separating; add to it two tablespoonfuls of milk; stir it in the meal, and drop by spoonfuls into a greased hot baking pan; drop from the side of the spoon to give the cakes the shape of a meringue, a little thicker in the centre than at the ends. Bake in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.) for half an hour. Serve warm. If well made, they are sweet, palatable and wholesome. SPONGE BISCUITS 1/2 pint of cream 1 saltspoonful of salt 4 eggs 1 cup of pastry flour or two-thirds of a cup of bread flour Beat the yolks of the eggs and add the cream, and then stir them into the flour; beat until smooth. Strain the batter into another bowl, and then fold in carefully the well beaten whites of the eggs. Bake at once in a quick oven (360° Fahr.) in greased hot gem pans. The cream need not necessarily be thick, the ordinary table cream will answer. The batter must be sufficiently thin to pour. UNLEAVEN BREADS MARYLAND BISCUIT 1 quart of winter wheat flour 1/2 pint of milk and water mixed 1 tablespoonful of shortening 1 level teaspoonful of salt Rub the shortening into the flour; add the salt; mix the milk and water, and add them slowly to the flour, stirring" all the while, until you have a hard,almost dry dough. It may not take the entire quantity of moisture; for this reason add it gradually. Put the dough out on a flour ed board, and knead continuously for fifteen minutes, until it is soft and elastic. Then beat it, constantly folding, for twenty minutes longer, or on a " biscuit break" draw it backwards and forwards through the rollers, each time folding it in a square a half inch thick. Roll out, cut in biscuits; prick the tops with a fork, stand them in a baking pan so that they will not touch each other, and bake in a moderate oven (360° Fahr.) for thirty minutes, or until thoroughly done to the very centre. The sides of these biscuits should be white but cooked, the tops and bottoms brown. If well made and well baked, these are easily digested and palatable. If uncooked in the centre, "slack baked," they are very objectionable. VIRGINIA BISCUITS are made from this same dough, rolled as thin as a wafer, cut into squares and baked until crisp. HYGIENIC POP-OVERS 1/2 pint of ice water 1/2 pint of whole wheat or graham flour Grease iron gem pans and put them to heat in a very quick oven (400° Fahr.). While they are heating, put the water in a cold bowl and sprinkle in the flour, beating all the while with an egg beater; beat until smooth, lifting the batter to entangle with it as much air as possible. Draw the hot gem pans from the oven, and place them on the top of the stove where they will not cool, while you put two tablespoonfuls of the batter in each cup. Bake quickly for fifteen or twenty minutes. If these are properly made, the gem pans and oven hot, they will be little balloons, well baked, crisp and wholesome. SCOTCH OAT CAKE 1/2 pound of Scotch or Irish oat meal 1 level tablespoonful of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1/4 teaspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda Put the meal in a bowl, and the butter and soda in a cup. Partly fill the cup with warm water, stir until the soda is dissolved and the butter melted; then pour quickly into the meal. Stir until every grain of meal is moistened. Take it out on a board, and knead until the mixture holds together, forming a dough. Dust the board with dry meal, roll out the oat cake into a thin sheet, and with a sharp knife cut into cakes four inches long and two wide. Lift carefully, place them in a slightly greased pan, and bake in a moderate oven until thoroughly dried and lightly browned. SCOTCH SHORT BREAD 1 quart (one pound) of flour 1/4 pound of sugar (powdered) 2 ounces of shredded citron 1/2 pound of butter 24 sweet almonds Put the butter in a bowl of warm water, and cut it in squares of one inch. Drain off the water carefully and work the butter with a spoon until it is quite soft; add gradually the flour, working with a spoon at first, afterwards with the hands; add the sugar, then the almonds, blanched and chopped fine, and the citron. Take off a portion, and pat it down on the baking board, making a cake a half inch thick and the size of an ordinary breakfast plate. Lift it to a baking pan and bake in a slow oven (260° Fahr.) until thoroughly done and nicely browned, about a half hour. PLAIN SHORT BREAD 1 quart of sifted flour 1/4 cup of soft brown sugar 1/2 pound of butter Soften and heat the butter as in the preceding recipe. Work in gradually the flour, then the sugar. Roll to the thickness of one inch, cut into cakes the size of a saucer, and bake in a moderate oven thirty-five minutes. WHOLE WHEAT WAFER BREAD 1 quart of whole wheat flour 1/2 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda Put the soda in a cup, add half a cup of warm water, mix until the soda is dissolved, and then pour it into the flour, adding sufficient extra warm water to make a rather harddough. Knead until soft, about ten minutes; roll out very thin, cut into squares of about two inches, and bake in a moderate oven until crisp and dry. WHOLE WHEAT NUT WAFERS 1 quart of whole wheat flour 1/2 pint of peanut or pine nut butter 1/2 teaspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda Put the soda and the nut butter in a bowl, add a half pint of warm water, mix and add the flour. Knead well, roll very thin, and bake in a moderate oven until crisp and dry. NUTS The word nut is used to express fruits of trees, enclosed in hard, woody covers, which remain closed even after the fruit is ripe. In some, the fruit is drupaceous. Of the almond, for instance, a drupe, we eat the stone kernel, and reject the pulpy covering; of the peach, a drupe of the same family, we eat the fleshy covering, and cast away the seed or stone with its kernel; the one we call a nut, and the other a fruit. Nuts and fruits furnish the principal food for the inhabitants of many countries, and were, no doubt, the food of primitive peoples. To the vegetarian they are indispensable; they furnish his meat, milk and butter. They are palatable, nutritious, and, if well prepared, easy of digestion. Being of vegetable origin, they are free from the danger of disease germs. Their food value is frequently overlooked by Americans, as they are generally served as a dessert. Under such circumstances, they naturally disagree, as one is adding concentrated, highly nutritious food to a heavy dinner. Then, too, Americans eat rapidly and masticate imperfectly. Nuts of all foods require most thorough mastication; in fact, grinding is to be preferred. From the general awakening in regard to healthful diet, societies have sprung up all over the world, recommending the use of vegetable foods, especially fruits and nuts. We have well established, both in New York and London, large vegetarian societies, many with separate branches of "fruit and nut eaters." Personally I have tried the experiment, and find it most satisfactory. The difficulty is, one must always eat at home. The untrained cook does not understand "delicate feasting." Nuts must be carefully prepared, and fruits correctly chilled and daintily served. Like all other foods, nuts are divided into three classes: Nitrogenous, carbonaceous and the inorganic, water and mineral matter. In the first group, those containing nitrogen, which builds the tissues of the body, are peanuts, pecans, English walnuts, hazel, filberts or cobnuts, almonds, pistachio nuts, pinon and hickory nuts in general. Black walnuts, butter-nuts, Brazil nuts, souari and cocoanuts are oleaginous (rich in oil), heat and energy producers. The chestnut and the chinquapin are the only starchy nuts in common use; hence must always be cooked when used as food for man. The almonds, pine or pinon and peanuts, widely used in all countries, contain all three elements in goodly proportions. Pine-nuts are cheap, easily digested and nutritious. The high price of almonds places them among the luxuries, appetizers, digesters and flavorings. A few almonds, carefully blanched and dried, not cooked or fried, well masticated, at the end of a dinner, aid digestion. The common acorns are of many varieties, and are extensively used by the Indians in the West and Southwest; they are dried, ground and made into bread, which, when properly cooked, is palatable, and furnishes the only bread used by many of the tribes during certain seasons of the year. ALMOND (Prunus Amygdalus, Baill.) The almond is the seed of a tropical evergreen, widely cultivated throughout the warmer climates of the Old World, and is now being cultivated to some extent in Southern California. It belongs to that group of the great rose family, which also includes the peach and plum. The fruit of the almond appears in a soft, pulpy envelope covered with a rather woolly or soft skin, the same as the peach. The pulpy envelope, however, soon becomes dry, and when the fruit matures, cracks open, allowing the pits to fall to the ground. The trees differ in size, color of blossoms, and in shape and size of the leaf. The peach has rather a small pink blossom, while that of the almond is larger and of a pale rose color. Both appear in the early spring before the unfolding of the leaves. The almond is one of the oldest of nuts. A history of plants, three hundred years before the Christian era, mentions the almond as the only tree producing flowers before leaves. There are many varieties of almond, but for our purpose, two only need be considered?-the sweet and the bitter almond. The sweet almonds are known as " paper shell," "hard" and "Jordan." The Jordan almond comes from Malaga, not from the Valley of the Jordan, as is usually supposed. They are always sold in our markets shelled; are large, sweet and the most expensive, and perhaps the most desirable of all varieties. The " paper shell" and most of the bitter almonds come from Valencia. The bitter brown skin underneath the shell, covering the kernel, contains tannic acid; hence must be removed before the nut is eaten. The bitter almond contains a bitter substance, amygdalin, which, under the influence of the enzyme, emulsin, in the presence of water, produces poisonous compounds, of which hydrocyanic or prussic acid is the chief constituent. Hence, bitter almonds must be used most carefully, in very small quantities, simply as a flavoring. Even then, I doubt if it is wise to use poisonous material. The kernel of the peach stone corresponds very nearly to the bitter almond, which makes it equally dangerous to use as a flavoring. The sweet almond contains emulsin, but not sufficient amygdalin to be, in the slightest degree, poisonous. Many products of economic value are made from almonds, among which are almond oil, a sweet, bland, non-irritating oil, and almond meal. Almonds rank high in nitrogen, containing from twenty-four to twenty-five per cent., and when dry, as we use them in this country, are much more concentrated. Frequently dry almonds contain as high as eighty-five to eighty-seven per cent. In European countries, fresh almonds, with cream cheese, and wafers or bread, are served as the last course at lunch; in this condition they are most attractive, palatable and far less con centrated than when dried and toasted. COMPOSITION OF SWEET ALMONDS, SHELLED (Church) Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Albuminoids, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Mucilage, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Mineral matter . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Cellulose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 SALTED ALMONDS Shell the almonds, cover them with boiling water, and let them stand a few moments until the brown skins will easily rub off. This may be done by pulping, or by rubbing them between coarse towels. Put the almonds in a pan, dust lightly with fine salt, and shake carefully in a moderate oven until they are crisp and slightly browned. Do not use fat or oil of any kind, as it destroys the delicate flavor of the almond. Sugared Almonds are dusted lightly with fine sugar and toasted in the same way. ALMOND BUTTER Shell the almonds, throw them into a kettle, cover with boiling water and allow to stand just a moment; then rub off the brown skins. Be careful, however, not to crush or break the almonds. Put them in thin layers in baking pans and then in a moderate oven to dry; be very careful not to overheat or brown. Grind at once, and you will have almond butter. almond butter is very palatable, and more economical when diluted with an equal quantity of pine- nuts. Grind them together. ALMOND WAFERS These wafers are used largely by diabetic patients. 1 cup of almond butter 1 1/2 cups of warm water Bran Mix thoroughly and stir in sufficient bran, about one quart, to make a harddough. Roll this out into a very thin sheet; cut into squares of two inches, and bake in a very moderate oven until a golden brown. The bran must be sifted free from all flour. BEECH NUT (Fagus ferruginea, Aiton) These tiny, three-sided nuts are sweet and tender; the size and scarcity, however, make them quite unknown to the average American housewife. Beechnut oil is used in many European countries in place of olive oil for salads and frying purposes. In case of scarcity of food one probably would turn to beechnuts if other foods were not at hand; but, as a rule, they are allowed to remain on the ground, and are generally eaten by the animals. Beechnut hams and beechnut bacon are said to have an especially fine flavor. BRAZIL NUT (Bertholletia excelsa) These nuts consist of a number of oblong three-sided nuts encased in a very hardcapsule or shell about the size of a man's fist, and in appearance are like a huge black walnut. The kernel of the nut is very rich in oil, in fact to most persons this nut is known as cream- nut; sometimes it is called butter-nut, but it must not be confounded with the ordinary white walnut or butter-nut of this country. The Brazil nut furnishes the principal food for the natives of Para and French Guiana; in fact, in many localities they are known as Para nuts. A handful of Brazil nuts softens and improves all nut butters. Ground and pressed, they yield a sweet oil, exceedingly palatable on fruit salads. The brown, rather thick covering underneath the shell must be pared off before using the nuts. As these nuts are rich in oil and come to us in a rather fresh condition, they must be kept in a cold place, or they soon become rancid. BRAZIL NUT BUTTER These nuts being very rich in fatty matter make the best of all nut butters. They cannot be blanched. With a very sharp, thin knife trim off all the brown skins, being careful not to soil the nuts. Cut them into slices, grind, pack in glasses, cover, and keep in a cold place. CHESTNUT The chestnut is the seed of a large tree belonging to the oak family and to the division Castanea. The small chestnuts with which we are familiar are Castanea, variety Americana (Watson). These, with the chinquapin, Castanea pumila, are the only starchy nuts in common use. In a nut diet, they are ranked as cereals or breadstuffs. The European Castanea sativa and Japanese chestnuts are of many varieties, and are larger than those grown in America. All chestnuts must be cooked to be easy of digestion. Chestnut cakes, muffins or griddle breads are palatable and wholesome. In Europe, the raw chestnuts are dried and ground, and the product is sold as chestnut flour or meal. This contains about twenty-nine per cent. starch and seventeen per cent. sugar. The latter, no doubt, is produced during the ripening of the nut. Chestnuts may be substituted in bills of fare for rice or potatoes. BOILED CHESTNUTS To eat chestnuts as a relish of an evening, or for Hallowe'en, throw them into a kettle of boiling water and add one teaspoonful of salt to each pint of chestnuts. Boil rapidly for twenty minutes. Drain in a colander, and serve smoking hot. To Serve as a Vegetable in the place of potatoes, remove the shell and the brown skin underneath. Throw the chestnuts into boiling water, and boil rapidly for twenty minutes or until they are perfectly tender; drain; season lightly with salt and shake them over the fire until they are dry and mealy. Serve plain or with cream sauce. CHESTNUT à la POULETTE Shell and remove the brown skin from one quart of chestnuts; cover them with boiling stock, add a saltspoonful of celery seed, a bay leaf and a thin slice of onion; cover the saucepan and boil rapidly for twenty minutes; drain, saving the stock. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add one-half pint of stock; stir until boiling and take from the fire. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and the yolk of one egg beaten with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Return the saucepan to the fire for just a minute; be careful not to boil, or the egg will curdle. Dish the chestnuts, pour over the sauce, and send at once to the table. ROASTED CHESTNUTS Make a cross through the shell on the flat side of the chestnut. Put them into a baking pan and shake constantly over the hot fire until the shells split. This will take from fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve hot. Chestnuts, like all other starchy vegetables, become heavy if they stand after cooking. CHESTNUTS WITH WHIPPED CREAM Boil the chestnuts, and when perfectly tender press them through a colander in the centre of a large chop plate. Dust them thickly with powdered sugar and heap around one pint of cream, whipped to a stiff froth. The cream may be flavored with sherry or vanilla. CHESTNUT MUFFINS Boil one quart of chestnuts. Open the shells and take out the well cooked kernel; press them at once through a colander, add a level teaspoonful of salt, the yolks of two eggs beaten with a half cup of milk, and a half cup of flour, sifted, with a teaspoonful of baking powder. Fold in the well beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in twelve hot greased gem pans. CHESTNUT CAKES Boil one quart of chestnuts. When done, open the shells and scoop out the inside, and add a half teaspoonful of salt, a half cupful of milk and two eggs well beaten. Mix thoroughly, and then stir in six tablespoonfuls of pastry flour. Drop by spoonfuls on lightly greased griddle. When brown on one side, turn and brown the other. Cook slowly. These are the most wholesome of all griddle cakes, as the chestnuts are thoroughly boiled and there is not sufficient flour to make the baking difficult. CHESTNUT GRIDDLE BREAD Separate two eggs. To the yolks add a half cup of milk. Mix. Stir in two-thirds of a cupful of chestnut meal. Cover and stand in a cool place over night. Next morning, add the whites of the eggs well beaten, a level teaspoonful of baking powder, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Make into thin cakes, and bake either in the oven or on a hot griddle. TO KEEP CHESTNUTS FRESH Chestnuts mold easily if they are allowed to remain in a pile before they become thoroughly dry. To keep them fresh for several months after picking, put a layer of sand in the bottom of the box, then a layer of chestnuts, then another layer of sand, and so continue until the box is filled, having at last a thick layer of sand. Keep in a cool place. TO DRY CHESTNUTS Shell the chestnuts, but do not remove the brown skin, and spread them in the sun until they are thoroughly dry; or dry in a cool oven. If placed out of doors in the sun, they must be removed before the falling of the dew, and not put out in the morning until the sun has sufficient power to dry the atmosphere. Moisture will cause mold. TO USE DRIED CHESTNUTS Soak over night in water, and use precisely the same as fresh chestnuts. MARRON GLACé Select large European chestnuts -?our own may be used equally well, only they are small and difficult to shell. Remove the shells and brown skin. Cover them with fresh boiling water. Boil rapidly until tender, but not too soft; drain and weigh, and to each pint, add a quarter of a good oily vanilla bean and one pound of sugar. Split the bean into halves; then cut it into small pieces, being very careful not to waste or lose the seeds. Add the sugar to a half pint of water; stir until dissolved; bring to boiling point; boil a minute and add the chestnuts. Push the saucepan to the back of the stove and cook slowly until the chestnuts are soft, dark and very rich. Lift each carefully with a fork, put them in a bottle or jar, and cover with the boiling syrup. Seal and stand aside. These will keep for any length of time. COCOANUT (Cocos nucifera) Cocoanut is derived from a species of palm, called the cocoa-palm. This tree grows in all tropical regions and bears annually about one hundred nuts. The nut consists of a single seed in a hardshell surrounded by a thick fibrous mass encased in a smooth husk. A soft white pulp lines the hardshell, the centre of which is filled with a sweet water, frequently called the milk of the cocoanut. These nuts are of great economic importance. In fact, they furnish food, drink, fuel, clothing, ropes, carpets and general utensils to the inhabitants of the countries in which they grow. The dry fleshy edible portion contains about seventy per cent. of fixed oil, which is sold under the name of cocoa- butter. Cocoanut butter or oil makes excellent frying material. It heats quickly at a low temperature, and is not rapidly absorbed by the frying articles. Preparations of cocoanut butter are sold under various names, as Nutko, Ko- nut, and in some places under the name of Cocoanut Butter. Its melting point is 70° Fahr., which makes it difficult to transport in warm weather. The flesh of fresh cocoanut grated and washed yields cocoa- nut milk and cream, two excellent substitutes to take the place of cow's milk and cream. This milk may be used for the making of sauces and soups, while the cream will take the place of olive oil or butter. The fibre is dense and difficult of digestion, and when mixed with sweets, as in cakes, is a fruitful source of acute indigestion, unless it has been thoroughly divided and sparingly used. COCOANUT MILK Grate three good-sized cocoanuts; cover with two quarts of boiling water; stir with a paddle until the cocoanut is thoroughly washed; strain through a piece of cheese cloth, wringing the fibre perfectly dry. Stand this at once in a cool place. Cover the cocoanut again with one quart of boiling water, stir, drain and wring perfectly dry. Do not mix the two milks, but stand both away to cool. When cold, remove from the surface the cocoanut cream, and both are ready for use. COCOANUT SAUCE This is exceedingly nice with cauliflower or lima bean s, or may be used as a sauce for baked or boiled tomatoes. Rub one tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cocoanut cream; when smooth, add a half pint of cocoanut milk; stir over the fire until boiling. Take from the fire, add a salt -spoonful of salt, and it is ready for use. COCOANUT JAMBOLAYA Scald six medium-sized tomatoes and remove the skins. Cut a slice from stem end, and carefully take, out the seeds. Chop sufficient celery to make a half pint. Add to the celery a half pint of finely grated cocoanut, a half teaspoonful of salt and just a suspicion of onion juice, not more than one teaspoonful. Stuff this into the tomatoes. Stand them on the bottom of a large saucepan, and partly cover them with cocoanut milk; cover the saucepan and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Lift each tomato carefully and arrange neatly on a round dish, in the centre of which you have a boiled head of cauliflower. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour and two of cocoanut cream in a saucepan and mix; add one pint of cocoanut milk in which the tomatoes were cooked; stir until boiling; add a half teaspoonful of salt and one level teaspoonful of curry powder, moistened in a little cocoanut cream. Bring to boiling point and strain over the cauliflower and tomatoes. Garnish the edge of the dish with triangular pieces of toasted bread. In between each tomato put a good-sized sprig of parsley or cress, and send at once to the table. COCOANUT SUGAR BALLS These little balls may be dipped in melted chocolate or may be served plain and passed in the place of bonbons at the end of the dinner. Add sufficient confectioners' sugar to the cocoanut cream to make a thick paste. Form at once into balls and stand in the refrigerator or very cold place until serving time. If these are dipped in chocolate, they must be dipped quickly and put at once in a cold place, or they will lose their shape. COCOANUT BLOCKS Stir sufficient powdered sugar into cocoanut cream to form a paste. Now add sufficient chopped nuts, almonds and pecans to make a rather dry, hard paste. Roll on an ordinary baking board into a sheet a half inch thick. Cut into blocks and stand at once in a cold place. Serve at the end of dinner in place of dessert. FILBERT, HAZEL OR COBNUT Of these we have several varieties. The small hazel- nuts with which we are familiar are the American varieties (Corylus Americana, Walters, and Corylus rostrata, Aiton). The large attractive filberts or cobnuts, Corylus Avellana, Linn., come to us from Europe. The best of the filberts come from Spain, and are known as Barcelona nuts. The cobnut, Corylus grandus, is the English filbert, coming largely from the neighborhood of Kent. This variety is to me the most delicious of all. In England, they are served fresh and green, and with brown bread and butter and lettuce salad , make a most attractive lunch. The nutritive value of hazel- nuts is no doubt high, but not equal to nuts belonging to the walnut family. All nuts, however, form a suitable substitute for meat, provided they are thoroughly ground and cooked. COMPOSITION OF FILBERTKERNELS (Church) Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48.0 Albuminoids . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4 Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.5 Mucilage, starch, etc. . . . . . . 11.1 Cellulose . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 Mineral matter . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 WALNUT FAMILY (Juglandacea) The hickory nut, shell-bark and pecan nut are seeds of trees belonging to the group Carya of this great family. There are several varieties, but for our use we shall call attention only to the hickory, shell-bark and pecan nut, all of which are high in nutritive value, and especially rich in albuminoids and fats. The expressed oil from these nuts makes an appetizing substitute for olive oil on salads. WALNUTS The ordinary English walnuts (Juglans regia, Linn.) are quite common in this country. They are, perhaps, the most indigestible of all nuts. Salt is said to aid in their digestion. It is far wiser, however, not to eat indigestible foods, than to take aids to digestion. The outside papery covering of the kernel, the brown skin under the shell, is rich in tannin. When the nuts are served in salad or mixed with materials for stuffings, this skin should be carefully peeled off. It is equally bitter with the skin of the almond. Juglans nigra, Linn., is the common black walnut of America, rich in oil and albuminoids, palatable and most valuable to mix with other nuts. Closely related to this is the American butter-nut or white walnut, the nut of Juglans cinerea, Linn., which has the appearance of a long black walnut. Crack on the ends, if you desire to remove the kernels in perfect halves. Unripe walnuts, while the shell is still soft, make an excellent pickle. It must be sufficiently soft to be easily punctured with a pin. Like the peanut, the walnut is of great economic value. The kernel is ground, the oil expressed, and the residue sold as "cake" for cattle food. COMPOSITION OF FRESH WALNUTS (Church) Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.5 Albuminoids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.5 Mucilage, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.9 Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.6 Cellulose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 Mineral matter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 LITCHI NUT It is the fruit of a tree growing in China and the Philippine Islands. The nuts come to our market dry, in their brown thin shells. The flesh, once soft, now dry, leaves a large space between the shell and stone. The fruit is sweet and tasty. The flesh is an agreeable addition to the ordinary fruit cheese. Canned litchies can be purchased in any Chinese shop; they are sweet, white, very palatable, and free from both stones and shells. To serve, drain off the liquor, turn the litchies into a pretty glass dish, sprinkle with a little chopped ice, and, if you use it, two or three tablespoonfuls of sherry. PEANUTS (Arachis hypogaea, Linn.) These are frequently called ground nuts, but must not be confounded with the true ground nut, Apios tuberosa. The peanut is a leguminous plant, ripening its seeds below the surface of the soil. The whole plant is of economic value. The vine is used as hay, and the residue from the compressed nuts in the manufacture of peanut oil is sold, under the name of "cake," as cattle food. In nourishment, peanuts are quite equal to the other leguminous seeds, as peas, beans and lentils. These nuts are accessible in all parts of the United States, contain starch and must be roasted or boiled to give them full food value. Care must be taken, however, that the nuts are not overcooked, especially if the cooking is done in a dry heat, as in the oven. If the nuts become brown, the flavor is destroyed. If undercooked, they produce peanut meal, which is of great economic value in the household. It can be used for cakes, made into purées and puddings. Mixed with fruit and boiled, it gives a "mock meat " exceedingly palatable, and highly nutritious. COMPOSITION OF SHELLED PEANUTS (Church) Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.5 Albuminoids, etc. . . . . . . . . . . 24.5 Starch, etc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.7 Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.0 Cellulose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 Mineral matter . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 PEANUT BUTTER Roast the nuts, shell and blow off the brown skins. When making it in large quantities, it will pay to have a bellows for this purpose, or put the peanuts on a coarse towel, cover them with another towel, rub them gently, then blow off the skins. If you use salt dust them lightly with it and grind at once. Pack the butter into glass jars or tumblers, cover them and keep in a cool place. This may be used plain or diluted with water. PEANUT MEAL Peanut meal may be used as thickening for soups or sauces, or may be added in small quantities to our breakfast muffin, sally lunn, or griddle cakes. Add but little flour; the peanuts contain starch, which will take the place of flour, and fat to take the place of shortening. Procure raw peanuts; shell the nuts and put into the oven just long enough to loosen the brown skins. Rub these off and grind the nuts. Adjust the grinder so that you will have a meal rather than an oily mixture. Put this aside in glass jars; it will keep for several weeks in a cool place, if properly covered. PEANUT WAFERS Mix a half cup of peanut meal with a half cup of peanut butter; beat thoroughly, then add gradually one and a half cups of sugar. Dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in a half cup of warm water; add to the nut mixture and then work in about three cups of Graham meal. The dough must be rather hard. Roll out into a very thin sheet, and cut into squares of two inches. Bake in a very slow oven until a golden brown. PIñONS OR PINE NUTS These nuts are also sold under the name of pinolas or pignolias. They are the seeds of several varieties of pines. The European pines producing edible seeds, have a hardcone which must be sawed into several pieces to remove the nuts. In this country, however, the Pinus edulis, growing on the dry hills of Colorado and California, produce a large cone containing very good-sized seeds, which are covered with a thin outside shell. These shells are threshed off by the Indian s, and the nuts are sold in our markets under the name of pine- nuts. They are very palatable, wholesome and cheap. We have several varieties of pines in the Western part of the United States with seeds sufficiently large to be used as food. The form and size of the nuts vary greatly in different species. In the Eastern markets we have two varieties, both of which come to us shelled. They require thorough washing and careful drying, and are then ready for use. They are the most valuable of all nuts for household purposes, being cheap, nutritious and palatable. PISTACHIO NUT (Pistacia vera) This nut has a little of the bitter-almond flavor, although in appearance it is very unlike it. It contains chlorophyll, the green coloring matter of plants; it is about one inch long, enclosed in a thin brittle shell. The nuts are salted, roasted in the shells and served the same as salted almonds. Being expensive, they are used principally as flavoring and garnishing to sweets. SOUARI NUT This attractive nut comes to us from South America. It is the fruit of any one of the genus Caryocar, a tree belonging to the Camellia or tea family. These nuts are very rich in oil, and are known in some parts of the United States as butter-nuts. This term seems to be applied in various localities to any nut that is extremely rich in oil. In the South, the Brazil nuts are universally called butter-nuts; along the coast, the souari nuts are the butter-nuts; through the East and interior the white walnut is the butter-nut. The term, however, signifies but little outside of certain localities. The flowers of the souari nuts are produced in terminal clusters; the nuts are fixed to a central axis. When they fall apart, they have the appearance of being mashed or broken off, the shell being slightly open at place of attachment. The kernel of the nut is much the shape of the Brazil nut. It is covered with a thick brown skin underneath the shell, which must be pared off before using. They contain little cellulose, and are very palatable when served with lettuce salad. The nut itself tastes perhaps more like the cocoanut than the ordinary small shell nuts. They are quite common in many of the nut shops of New York and Philadelphia, but are rarely seen away from the seaport towns. WATER CHESTNUTS (Prapa) These nuts are largely used by the Chinese and Japanese, to be served with chicken in place of succulent vegetables. Occasionally one can find them at the Chinese shops. They have an agreeable, crisp flavor, reminding one of stachys or the Jerusalem artichoke. The nuts are dark brown with a broad central portion, from which two horns extend in opposite directions, giving the nut the appearance of a tiny ox head. These nuts are sold on the Californian coast under the name of Jesuits' nut. The SINGHARA NUTS of India and Ceylon are closely allied to the water chestnut. To use-?shell, peel and boil with chicken, or in chicken stock, twenty minutes. NUT AND FRUIT CRACKERS 1 pound of whole wheat flour 1/2 cup of almond butter 1 pound of seeded and chopped raisins Rub the almond butter into the flour; when thoroughly mixed add sufficient water, about one cup, to just moisten. The dough must be very hard. Knead for a few moments, and roll out in a.very thin sheet; sprinkle over one-half of this sheet the chopped raisins, fold over the other half, and, with a rolling pin, roll the two carefully together. Cut into crackers about two inches wide, and three inches long; place in a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven until brown and crisp, about twenty minutes. Peanut butter may be substituted for almond butter, and dates or figs for raisins. Graham flour may be substituted for the whole wheat flour. NUT CROQUETTES Mix one cupful of bread crumbs with one cupful of finely chopped nuts; season with a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper, drop in one unbeaten egg, and mix thoroughly; roll in egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Vegetarians would use either olive or cotton seed oil, or cocoanut butter. Serve with tomato sauce. NUT SOUFFLé This dish will take the place of croquettes for those who cannot use fried foods. Put one pint of soft fine crumbs with a half pint of cocoa- nut milk over the fire. Boil and stir until perfectly smooth; take from the fire; work in carefully a half, pint of chopped nuts; add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; fold in carefully the well-beaten whites of five eggs. Turn this into a baking dish and bake in a quick oven ten to fifteen minutes. Serve at once or it will fall. This will take the place of meat. NUT CHEESE 1/4 pound of almonds 1/2 pound of pine- nuts 1/2 pound of pecan nuts 1/2 pound of filbert or hazelnuts 1/2 pound of roasted peanuts Prepare these nuts as directed; put them through the nut grinder. Knead the mixture until it becomes a little soft, pack closely into tumblers or baking powder boxes, and stand at once in a cold place. When wanted for use, hold the boxes in hot water, until the nuts are sufficiently warm to slip out easily; cut the cheese down into slices and serve in the place of meat. NUT AND FRUIT CHEESE This mixture makes one of the nicest of all sandwich fillings, and is almost a meal in itself. 1/2 pound of figs 1/2 pound of raisins 1/2 pound of dates 1/2 pound of pecan nuts 1/4 pound of almonds 1/2 pound of pine- nuts 1/4 pound of Brazil nuts Wash the figs, stone the dates and the raisins ?- seedless raisins may be used and are really just as good. Mix the nuts. Put through a meat chopper, first a little fruit, then a few nuts, and so continue until all are chopped and mixed. Press the mixture down into either baking powder boxes or small, square tins, and stand it aside. When wanted for use, loosen the mixture from the sides of the boxes with a thin knife blade and turn it out on a board. Cut into very thin slices and serve in the place of meat. For sandwiches put a thin slice between two layers of bread and butter. These nut foods are excellent fillings for school sandwiches. MOCK CANDY The rule for nut cheese. The same quantity of fruit cheese. Pack each into half-pound square cocoa boxes. Dip the boxes into hot water, and turn the cheese on a board. Cut the nut cheese in smooth, thin slices, and the fruit cheese in slices twice the thickness. Put one slice of fruit between two slices of nuts, press them lightly, and cut into blocks the size and shape of caramels. These are very good and wholesome, and will take the place of candy. NUT SHORT-CAKE Sift two rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder with one quart of flour, add a half teaspoonful of salt. Moisten a half cupful of nut butter with one and a half cupfuls of cold water, when perfectly smooth, add gradually the flour. The dough must be moist, but not wet. Take this quickly out on a board; knead and roll into a sheet a half inch in thickness; cut with a round biscuit cutter and bake, the same as ordinary cream biscuits, in a quick oven twenty minutes. White flour, Graham flour, or whole wheat flour may be used. NUT SAUSAGE 1 quart of dried bread crumbs 1 pint of nut butter 1 level teaspoonful of sage 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 rounding teaspoonful of salt Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and add sufficient cold water to bind them together. Form in a roll about six inches long, put it in a baking pan, pouring in the bottom of the pan a little diluted nut butter; roast one hour, basting frequently, and serve hot with a sauce made in the pan in which it was cooked. Persons using eggs may bind the mixture together with three raw eggs beaten with a quarter cup of cold water. Any and all the nuts may be used for this purpose, and the sausage may be flavored with onions, allowing a tablespoonful of grated onion to the recipe given. NUT ROLLS 1 quart of carefully cooked hominy grits 1 pint of nut butter 1/2 pint of stale bread crumbs or grated zwieback 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed or a half cup of chopped celery 3 hard boiled eggs 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper parsley Cook the hominy in water until perfectly tender. Put it into a bowl and add all the other ingredients, the eggs being chopped fine. Form into a large roll or shape it in the form of a chicken, or a fish, or in good-sized balls. If made in the form of fish or chicken, or a roll, place them in a baking pan, add a halt cupful of nut butter diluted with a half pint of warm water; roast one hour, basting frequently. When done dish and garnish with parsley and lemons cut into quarters. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of pine- nut butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add this to the mixture in which the roll was cooked, then add a half pint of boiling water and stir until smooth and the consistency of cream. Add the juice of a lemon, a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; strain, and send to the table in a boat. If this mixture is made into croquettes or balls, dip them in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve in plain cream or tomato sauce. OTHER USES OF NUTS Chopped almonds, pecan-nuts and pine- nuts may be sprinkled over lettuce and covered with French dressing for a dinner salad. Pine- nuts may be stuffed into boned meats, in place of other stuffings. They may also be added to made meat dishes. Or they may be slightly dusted with salt and served the same as salted, almonds. Nuts may be added to the cream vegetable soups; for instance, asparagus soup may be made after the ordinary recipe, omitting the butter and flour, and adding four tablespoonfuls of peanut meal or four tablespoonfuls of pine- nut butter; or one may add the mixed butters and in this way make many varieties. An inventive mind will create from these recipes fifty to sixty different soups. potato soup, cream of corn soup , cream of pea or bean soup ; salsify, turnips, or carrots may be used with combinations of nuts. Diebetics may use soups made from such vegetables as spinach, lettuce, celery, and turnip; thicken and flavor them with almond, pine- nut, or Brazil nut butter. NUT BREADS The oily nuts, as Brazil, pine, black walnut, white walnut, or American butter-nuts and cocoanut may be used in place of other shortening in all breads and cakes. SERVING OF FRUITS During the warm months substitute fruits for the heavier starches, sugars and meats. To have them wholesome and easy of digestion, serve them plain, uncooked and ripe. Small fruits, as strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, huckleberries and currants should be moderately chilled; over-chilling renders them severely acid and unpalatable. The sub-acids or sweet fruits, as mulberries, guavas, bananas, cantaloupes and watermelons, should be served quite cold; peaches medium. The small, soft fruits should be handled as little and as lightly as possible. If sandy, wash them by putting them into a colander and dipping the colander down and up several times in a pan of cold water. Strawberries should be washed before they are hulled, otherwise they become water-soaked. Do not, under any circumstances, throw the fruit into the water and lift them out with the hands. In almost every community leaves from fruit trees or leaves from appropriate flowers may be secured for the garnishing of fruits. Even in the woods or on the mountain side the dainty huckleberry leaves or ferns are always accessible. The French, who pay attention to the beautiful, use artificial leaves where fresh leaves are not to be obtained, and while this is not to be recommended as artistic, the beautiful is always to be considered. "The beautiful is frequently as useful as the useful." For breakfast, or first course at lunch, strawberries are by far daintier served with the hulls on, around a little mound of powdered sugar. To eat, simply dip them in the powdered sugar, holding the berries by the stem or hull. All fruits contain sufficient sugar; that is, according to nature's way of doing. If they are too acid to be palatable they are too acid to be eaten. This is nature's way of warning us against unwholesome foods. Sugar in no way corrects an 1 Stewed Prunes Page 550 2 Whole Fruits 3 Pears 4 Watermelon An illustration of Different Kinds of Fruits Arranged in Bowls. acid; it may cover the fruit, disguise it and make it pass the palate, but the two enter the stomach as they were originally, the acid as acid and the sugar as sugar. Together they are more dangerous than when taken alone. Sugar with the fruit is very liable to fermentation. Fruits are digested principally in the intestines. THE APPLE The apple is chief among fruits. There is no doubt but that it is more easily digested when cooked; but it certainly is palatable and wholesome raw. BAKED APPLES Remove the cores from large sweet apples. Place them in an earthen or granite pan, cover the bottom with boiling water and bake in a quick oven, basting every five minutes. Serve warm. Cold apples are heavy and sodden, and should not be eaten by persons with weak digestion. PANNED BAKED APPLES These are exceedingly nice to serve with the meat course at dinner. Wash and core the apples, but do not pare them. Cut them into eighths. Put a layer in a baking dish, cover this with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, then another layer of apples, and so continue until the dish is filled. Add to a quart of these, a half pint of water, cover the pan and bake in a quick oven until soft, about fifteen minutes. They must be tender, but quite whole. Serve warm in the pan in which they were baked. SLICED APPLES FOR BREAKFAST Pare, core and slice several apples; put them into a baking dish; cover with cream, and bake for twenty minutes. Another way is to cover them with well-cooked oatmeal, and bake fifteen minutes. Serve with milk. STEWED APPLES Take firm, sound apples of average size; core without paring; stand them in a porcelain-lined kettle; add sufficient water to cover the bottom; cover and simmer gently until they are just soft. Lift with a skimmer; dish; add to the water in the kettle sufficient sugar to sweeten; add a few drops of lemon juice, and pour the syrup thus made over the apples. Serve warm. A SIMPLE APPLE SAUCE Core the apples, do not pare, and cut in thin slices; cover with sufficient water to prevent scorching. As soon as they boil, press them through a colander to remove the skins. To each half pint add a piece of butter the size of a hickory-nut, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Serve warm or cold. This form of apple sauce is usually served with duck, goose or pork, and is exceedingly nice as a sauce for breakfast or supper. A more elaborate sauce is made by adding to the apples, after they have been pressed through the sieve, butter, sugar, two tablespoonfuls of cream, and, to each pint, the well-beaten whites of three eggs. WHOLE APPLE SAUCE Pare, quarter and core the apples. Make a syrup from half a cupful of sugar and half a pint of water. When it boils, add a little lemon peel and then the apples. Put them on the back part of the stove, where they may cook slowly, until transparent and tender. Serve warm or cold. COCKTAILS The word cocktail has slipped into our menus or bills of fare, and no longer means a mixture of liquors. We have fruit cocktails, strawberry cocktails, and clam cocktails all made without alcohol. In early spring, when strawberries are just coming and are expensive, strawberry cocktails for four people may be made from a pint of strawberries. These mixed fruit cocktails are served in punch glasses, eaten with an ordinary fruit fork or a long, slender bowled spoon. Orange Shells and Baskets for Cocktails Page 545 An illustration of Different Shells and Baskets that can be used for cocktails. Strawberry Cocktail Page 545 An illustration of a Strawberry Cocktail. STRAWBERRY COCKTAILS Into each glass slice five or six strawberries; squeeze over the juice of one large orange; stand aside until wanted. At serving time, add a heaping teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a tablespoonful of finely cracked or shaved ice. SHADDOCK COCKTAILS Cut the shaddocks or grape fruit into halves; carefully scoop out the pulp without any of the inner white skin. After this has been done, clean out the sides of the shells and throw them into cold water. Hull a pint of strawberries, mix them with the shaddock pulp; add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and stand the mixture on the ice. At serving time, shake the shells from the water; fill them with the strawberries and shaddock mixture; add a tablespoonful of finely shaved ice, and if you use it, a tablespoonful of rum or sherry. Stand the shells on a dainty paper mat or on a spray of fern, and send at once to the table. ORANGE COCKTAILS Oranges and strawberries may be blended precisely the same as shaddock or grape fruit and strawberries, and the mixture served in orange baskets made from the shells of the oranges. FRUIT COCKTAILS In the winter, when fresh fruits cannot be obtained, a very nice cocktail may be made by slicing two very ripe bananas, adding to them one grated pineapple, the juice of one lemon and one orange. This may be seasoned and served in punch glasses. Canned fruits may be used for cocktails, provided they are nicely blended; for instance, strawberries and peaches, the peaches chopped fine and seasoned with orange juice; apricots with canned cherries. These cocktails are served at the beginning of lunch or dinner, and take the place of shell fish or soup. MIXED FRUIT COCKTAILS This is made from a mixture of all kinds of fruit chopped very fine. At serving time, fill either champagne or punch glasses half full of the mixture; put in the centre two tablespoonfuls of orange or lemon water ice, or, if you like, mint ice, and serve as a dessert. STRAWBERRIES, FRENCH FASHION Stem and arrange the strawberries neatly in a shallow glass dish. Squeeze over them the juice of one or two oranges and four tablespoonfuls of finely shaved ice, and send at once to the table. Pass with them powdered sugar. RASPBERRY CUP Mash and strain one pint of currants stripped from the stems; look over carefully one pint of raspberries, and put them aside to moderately chill. At serving time fill lemonade glasses half full with raspberries, cover with the currant juice, add a heaping teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and serve as dessert, or as first course for lunch or company breakfast. STRAWBERRIES IN FONDANT Make a fondant and melt it over hot water; have it moderately thin. Select tiny paper cases, or a flat stoneware dish. Fold the hull close to the stem, dip the strawberries in the fondant, and put at once in the paper cases or on the platter to cool. When covering is cold, heap them on a dainty glass dish and serve them as bonbons. Cherries, Currants and Grapes may be served in the same fashion. TO SERVE RASPBERRIES These are the most delicate of the soft fruits and require careful handling. Growing above the ground, they do not, as a rule, require washing. If they should be sandy, turn them in a colander, put it carefully in a pan of cold water and gently lift it up. Do this the last moment before serving. Then toss them lightly into a glass bowl and squeeze over the juice of one lemon. As they are a sweet fruit they do not require sugar. TO SERVE WHOLE FRUITS Select for these a raised dish with a centre stand. These are sold under the name of high fruit dish or fruit stand. Arrange apples and oranges in the bottom of the dish; stick here and there full, ripe bananas; arrange clusters of grapes to fall gracefully over the dish and one bunch in the centre. Stick among the fruits any green leaves or ferns that you may have at hand that will blend nicely with the fruit. Use for serving of whole fruit a plate with finger bowl, and both a spoon and fruit knife. WATERMELONS Wash, wipe and put the watermelon into a very cold place to rest for several hours. When ready to serve, cut a little slice from the stem end, just enough to make it stand. Cut the melon into halves, dish one half on a round plate, garnish the plate with green leaves, and send at once to the table. To serve, scoop out the pulp in large egg -shaped pieces with a table or serving spoon. It is not elegant to serve the rind of watermelon on individual plates. CHILLED WATERMELON Cut the ripe, pink flesh from a good-sized watermelon; put it into a freezing can and pack with salt and ice; turn the crank slowly until the watermelon is half frozen. Serve in punch glasses at the close of lunch or dinner. Those who use wine may add to each glass a tablespoonful of sherry. CANTALOUPES Wash and scrub the cantaloupes as soon as they come from the market. Growing on the ground, they are usually very sandy. Put them into a very cold place. They must be sufficiently chilled not to require ice at serving time. Cantaloupes filled with shaved ice are tasteless and watery. When ready to serve, cut the cantaloupes into halves, and with a spoon take out the seeds without removing any of the flesh. Serve a half to each person, serving with them knife, fork and spoon. MIXED FRUITS IN A BORDER OF LEMON ICE Pack a border mold with carefully made water -ice; cover the mold, and pack it in salt and ice for at least two hours. Chop fine one tart apple, add a grated pineapple, a banana cut into thin slices, the pulp of four oranges, one grape fruit; add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and, if you have them, a half pint of raspberries, either fresh or canned. Put the mixture aside until ice cold. At serving time, turn the border mold of lemon ice into the centre of a round dish. Fill the space in the middle with the fruit mixture. Garnish the outside of the water -ice with fresh roses, and serve as a dessert for a company lunch or supper. The variety of the fruit may be changed to meet the demands of the season. TO SERVE FRESH PEACHES Select large and perfectly ripe peaches. With soft canton flannel rub the outside gently; arrange them neatly on a high fruit dish, garnish with fresh peach leaves, and send at once to the table. With these you will use fruit plates, finger bowls and fruit knives. If peaches are sliced they must be sliced at the very last moment, as they become discolored when exposed to the air. Peaches should not be sugared until they are served. SUB-ACID AND DRIED FRUITS BAKED BANANAS Peel the bananas and scrape off all the fibre. Place them in a baking pan, sprinkle over a very little sugar, cover the bottom of the pan with water, and bake in a quick over(360° Fahr.) thirty minutes, basting once or twice. Dish, add to the pan the juice of an orange or lemon, or, if you use it, four tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. Stir it around and baste it over the bananas. Serve at once. BANANA SOUFFLé 6 very ripe bananas Whites of four eggs Juice of one orange or lemon Sugar Peel and mash the bananas; add the orange juice, or, if you use wine, a quarter cupful of port wine and a palatable seasoning of sugar, about six tablespoonfuls. Beat well, and fold in the whites well beaten. Heap in a baking dish and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve at once. For my own use, I omit all flavoring and sweetening. STEWED DRIED FIGS Wash pulled figs through several cold waters, cover them with cold water, add to each pound one bay leaf, and soak over night. Next morning put them, water and all, over the fire and bring slowly to boiling point. Lift the figs with a skimmer, boil down the syrup one half, and pour it over the figs. These may be served alone the same as stewed fruit, or with plain or whipped cream. STEWED RAISINS Wash the raisins, and proceed precisely the same as for figs. All saccharin fruits have a high food value. STEWED PRUNES Wash the prunes, cover them with cold water, and soak them over night. Next morning drain, boil the water until reduced one-half, add the prunes, bring to a boil, but be very careful not to boil a moment. Take from the fire and cool. Sugar and long cooking spoil prunes. DRIED FRUITS All dried fruits, as peaches, apricots, and pears, should be washed, soaked over night, and cooked slowly for a half hour, without sugar. Boil the syrup down to the proper consistency. PASTRY TO MAKE LIGHT CRISP PASTRY Use good fine pastry flour and the very best butter. Have the flour, butter, and the room in which you make the paste, very cold. A marble slab is, of course, best; but you can very well use the ordinary wood or metal board. All pastry is improved by being kept on ice over night, or several hours before using. puff paste must be kept twenty-four hours, and is better at the end of four days, provided it is carefully wrapped. Of course, the layers of light paste are thin, but each layer is dense and should never be eaten by persons with weak digestion. All forms of so-called pie crust are to be condemned; for this reason the department is necessarily small. puff paste 1 pound of sifted pastry flour 1 teaspoonful of salt White of one egg 1 pound of butter 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1 cup of ice water (half pint) Scald a large bowl; fill it with cold water and let it stand for a few moments to cool; then fill with ice water. Wash the hands in hot soapsuds, rinse in cold water, but do not wipe. Put the butter into the bowl in the cold water, wash or work it under the water, without pressing it into the bowl, until it becomes soft and elastic. Take off a piece the size of a large hen's egg; pat the remaining quantity into a thin sheet, and lay it on a piece of cheesecloth on the ice. Put the flour in the centre of a large dinner plate or on a marble slab; make a well in the centre, put in the piece of butter, the salt, sugar, white of egg and half the water. Begin to work in the flour, and as the dough is formed add a little water and more flour until you have a dough the consistency of bread. Dust the board with flour, and knead the dough until it is soft and elastic, keeping your hands as cool as possible. Cut the dough into halves; roll each half out into a sheet a half inch thick. Dry the butter on the cheesecloth; dust it with flour on both sides; put it on one sheet, cover it with the other, fastening the edges together, and roll quickly, from you, being careful not to break the dough. Fold in the sides, then the ends, turning the paste around so that the fold will run to and from you; roll from you, and again fold as before. Place on a dry napkin, then on a dish and on the ice for fifteen minutes. Then roll again, having the fold in the same position; fold and roll again. Stand it on the ice for another fifteen minutes. Do this until you have given it six rolls or turns; eight will make it lighter, if you know how to roll; but, if it is your first trial, six will be quite sufficient. Wrap it in a dry napkin, put it on a plate and in the refrigerator over night. TO BAKE puff paste This is quite as important as the making; everything must be very cold. The paste must be rolled quickly, cut into patés or vol-au-vent, placed on the ice until thoroughly chilled. The oven must be at least 400° Fahr. It may be cooled slightly after the paste has risen, as it scorches easily; but it is best to have the oven about 4000 at first. As soon as the pastry has risen, cool down the oven to 360° Fahr. For patés and vol-au-vent, the oven should have a strong under-heat, allowing them to go to the fullest height before browning. If the oven, however, is too hot, the pastry will brown before it is light, and be dense and heavy, no matter how well made. CHICKEN PATéS Cook the chicken the day before it is to be used. 1 batch of puff paste 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt The white meat of a three and a half pound chicken 1 pint of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 can of mushrooms Roll the puff paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; then with a round cutter cut into rounds. With another cutter, three sizes smaller, cut the centres from two-thirds of the rounds, leaving one-third uncut for the bottoms of the patés; brush the solid one near the edge with white of egg, put on a ring, brush this with white of egg; put on the other ring; brush the centre of the ring with a little yolk of egg mixed with water, being careful that the egg does not run down the sides of the paté, or it will cement and hold the edges together. Place these on an oiled paper on a baking sheet. When you have finished the last paté, stand them on the ice until very cold. During this time, heat the oven. Place the cold patés in a very hot oven (about 400° Fahr.), and watch carefully that the heat does not increase; in fact, it is better to decrease it just a little, and bake slowly until they have risen to five or six times their original height. To keep the patés perfectly straight, cut a wedge of bread from a thick slice with the small cutter used for making the rings; put this bread in the patés just as you are putting them in the oven, or before placing them on the ice. When the patés are half baked, remove the bread wedges and allow the inner portion to bake. Patés may be baked several hours before they are wanted and warmed at serving time, or they may be made the day before. When wanted for use, rub the butter and flour together, add the milk cold, stir until boiling, add the salt, pepper, the mushrooms chopped fine and the chicken cut into dice. Stand over boiling water for fifteen or twenty minutes. At serving time, fill this into the patés, and send at once to the table. The centres of the rings may be baked and used as lids for the patés. OYSTER PATéS are made in precisely the same way, using creamed oysters. Put two oysters and a little sauce in each paté. SWEETBREAD PATéS are made the same as chicken patés. Use one pair of sweetbreads and a half can of mushrooms to each pint of white sauce. PLAIN PASTE Put into a bowl three-quarters of a pound (three cups) of sifted pastry flour; add a level teaspoonful of salt and one of sugar; put into the flour a half pound of butter, cutting it into bits and quickly covering each bit with flour. Measure two-thirds of a cup of ice water; add it here and there all over the flour, never pouring it twice in the same place. When all is moistened, so that it holds together, turn it out on a board, roll quickly from you, fold in the sides and then the ends, turn, roll it from you again, fold, and roll again. Stand on the ice until wanted. This will be lighter if allowed to stand over night. At first, it will stick to the rolling pin. Don't use sufficient flour to prevent sticking, however, or the pastry will be hard; let it stick at first; in a moment, it will all cleave together under the weight of the roller, and the paste will be light and delicate. This paste may be made by using half lard and half butter; but, of course, it is greasy and not so light. However, it makes very little difference what fat is used as far as digestion is concerned. Butter, perhaps, is quite as injurious as lard, as both are overheated. It is not that butter is injurious, or the flour or fruits from which the pies are made; but it is the combination and the manner in which they are put together. Butter, however, makes a flaky crust, while lard makes a greasy one. This is due to the difference in the fats. Digestion is as easily accomplished, however, with one as with the other, when made into pastry. ENGLISH APPLE TART These may be made in deep dishes, using a suet crust on top. Fill a deep baking dish with sliced apples, and sprinkle over two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Free a quarter of a pound of suet from all membrane, chop it fine, and add gradually, while chopping, two cups (a half pound) of pastry flour; add a half teaspoonful of salt and just sufficient ice water to moisten. Knead a moment, and roll it out in a sheet. Put it over the top of the apples, making a hole in the centre; brush with beaten egg, and bake in a moderately quick oven one hour. PEACH OR SMALL FRUIT TARTS may be made by using these fruits instead of the apples, and a biscuit crust may be substituted for the suet. HYGIENIC PIE 6 good tart apples 1 rounding teaspoonful of baking powder 1 pint of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1/4 cup of sugar 2/3 of a cup of milk Pare, core and quarter the apples; put them into the baking dish; sprinkle over the sugar; add a half cup of water. Put the flour into a bowl; add the baking powder and salt, and sift twice; moisten gradually with the milk. When you have a soft dough, roll it out quickly, make a hole in the centre, and place it neatly over the apples. The crust may be a quarter of an inch thick. Brush the top with milk or beaten white of egg, and bake in a moderately quick oven three-quarters of an hour. This is very good served with cold milk or milk and cream. Other fruits may be substituted for the apples. PUMPKIN CUSTARD Make a biscuit crust according to the preceding recipe; roll it out thin, and line a deep baking dish. Have ready stewed or steamed sufficient pumpkin to make one pint when mashed; press it through a sieve. While warm, add a tablespoonful of butter, stir in two eggs well beaten with a half cup of sugar, add a half teaspoonful of ground ginger and a half pint of milk. Turn this into the baking dish, and bake in a moderately quick oven one hour. POOR MAN'S TARTLETS 12 square crackers or Roquefort wafers Whites of two eggs 1 tumbler of jelly 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar Put on the top of each wafer or cracker (and almost any form of cracker may be used for this) a teaspoonful of jelly. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth; add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until fine and white. Cover the jelly thoroughly with this meringue; dust the tops with the remaining two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and brown in a slow oven. These are sightly and palatable, and lack the unwholesome conditions of ordinary tarts. MARGUERITES Like the above, you may use for these almost any form of dainty water crackers. Crackers 6 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar Whites of three eggs 1/2 cup of pecan nuts 1/2 cup of almonds Blanch the almonds, dry, and chop them very fine with the pecan-nuts. Beat the white of one egg with two tablespoonfuls of sugar just enough to thoroughly mix; stir the nuts into this, and spread them over the top of the crackers about a quarter of an inch thick. Beat the remaining whites until they are stiff, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and beat again until dry and fine. Cover this meringue all over the nuts, heaping it up in the centre; dust thickly with powdered sugar, and dry or brown lightly in a cool oven. All or any nuts may be substituted for the ones mentioned here; black walnuts, hickory nuts, pifion or English walnuts may be used separately or mixed together. In many places, peanut butter is used. MAPLE MERINGUE 1/2 pound of maple sugar 1 rounding tablespoonful of flour 1 cup of milk 3 eggs 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice Grate the sugar; beat it with the yolks of the eggs until light. Moisten the flour gradually with the milk, and strain it into the sugar and eggs; add the lemon juice, and turn at once into a pie plate that has been lined with paste. Bake in a quick oven a half hour or until the custard is "set." Beat the whites of the eggs until light; add three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until dry and fine. Heap over the top of the pie, dust thickly with powdered sugar, and brown in a very slow oven. Meringues will not fall if they are dusted with sugar and browned slowly. PEACH TART Line a pie dish with good biscuit crust. Pare and cut the peaches into halves and remove the stones. Heap them in the dish; sprinkle over lightly a half cup of sugar, add a quarter of a cup of water and bake in a moderately quick oven a half hour. Serve warm. DESSERTS This term is generally applied to the final sweet at either lunch or dinner. Desserts are like unto the ruffles or trimmings on a garment; they must be used with judgment or they will spoil the entire, meal. Avoid heavy desserts where meats have formed a large proportion of the dinner; light desserts not containing albuminoids are to be preferred. For instance, with a roast-beef dinner, do not serve a cup custard or a dessert rich in eggs, or the dinner will be unbalanced, containing entirely too much nitrogenous foods. Substitute whipped cream, light cornstarch, or fruits. With a vegetable dinner, serve desserts rich in eggs and milk. Like all other trimmings, these can be overdone; a dessert must above all things har-monize with the dinner. For instance, do not end a simple dinner with an elaborate dessert, and when a dinner is very elaborate, it is by far better to omit the dessert and serve coffee, wafers and cheese, or an omelette soufflee or syllabub, a dainty, light, attractive dish Don't for example, serve apple slump or bread pudding with a capon or turkey dinner; nor tapioca, following a baked fillet with mushroom sauce. It would be like a velvet gown trimmed with calico. A GROUP OF COLD PUDDINGS These puddings may be made a day before they are needed, and consist principally of "gelatin desserts" and those thickened with cornstarch or eggs. It must be remembered that mixtures of egg and milk are liable to ptomaines, which makes it very necessary that they should be put to cool in a perfectly clean place. It is not an unusual thing for one to hear of persons made severely ill by eating ice cream, cream custard or boiled custard that has been standing over night. Chicken and salmon salads, where the meats have been boiled, are, during the warm months, especially liable to these toxic conditions. From the various facts collected by our modern chemists, we know that all the animal foods must be kept in very clean places, clean from a surgical standpoint, not simply swept and dusted, but free from conditions that increase the growth of bacteria. CREAMY PUDDING 1 pint of milk 4 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 1/2 cup of sugar 4 eggs Put the milk in a double boiler, moisten the cornstarch with a little extra milk, add it to the hot milk, stir until thick and smooth; add the sugar, and pour, while hot, over the well beaten whites of the eggs; add the flavoring, turn at once in a mold, and stand away to cool. Serve with soft custard sauce made from the yolks of the eggs. NOTE.?-If this is to be flavored with CHOCOLATE, add two ounces of grated chocolate; mix at the same time you are adding the cornstarch. If it is to be flavored with COFFEE, take a half pint of milk instead of one pint, and add a half pint of coffee. For VANILLA, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, just as you take it from the fire. For LEMON or ORANGE, add the grated yellow rind to the milk before you add the cornstarch. For COCOANUT, add a half pint of grated cocoanut with the vanilla. CEYLON PUDDING 1 cocoanut 4 level teaspoonfuls of cornstarch 1/4 cup of sugar 4 eggs Grate the cocoanut, and pour over it a pint of boiling water. Wash and stir until every particle of goodness is washed from the cocanut. Turn this into a colander and press perfectly dry. Strain it through a cheese cloth. Turn this milk in a double boiler, add the cornstarch, moistened in a little cold water, add the sugar, stir until smooth and thick, and pour while hot into the well beaten whites of the four eggs. Turn into a mold, and stand at once in a cool place. Serve with soft custard made from the yolks of the eggs and a pint of cocoanut milk. BLANC MANGE 48 almonds 1 quart of milk 4 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 1/2 cup of sugar 1/4 pound of mixed candied fruits Blanch the almonds and chop them very fine; add them to the milk, put into a double boiler, and when hot add the cornstarch moistened in six or eight tablespoonfuls of cold milk. Cook until smooth. Add the sugar and turn into individual molds that have been moistened in cold water. Stand aside on the ice until cold. When they are cold, turn these carefully into individual dishes, garnish with candied cherries, or pineapple or both, and send to the table with plain cream. FRENCH FLOATING ISLAND 6 eggs 1 quart of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar 1/2 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 24 almonds, blanched, dried and chopped fine. Separate the eggs. Beat the whites until light and frothy but not dry; add the sugar and beat until fine and glossy. Drop by teaspoonfuls on a pan of hot water. Lift with a skimmer and put on a plate to cool. The better method is to have at the side of the pan of water on the stove a plate and skimmer. Drop the spoonfuls on top of the water and take them out in the rotation that you dropped them. Then drop a few more teaspoonfuls, and so on until the whole has been cooked. French Floating Island Page 560 An illustration of a French Floating island. Princess Charlotte Page 567 An illustration fo princess Charlotte. Putting the Meringue on a Pudding An illustration of a person Putting the Meringue on a Pudding. Keep the whites in as compact a form as possible. Put the milk in a double boiler, beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar together, add to them, slowly, the hot milk. Turn it in the double boiler, and cook until the custard sticks to a knife blade or until it begins to thicken. If cooked a moment too long it will curdle. Add the vanilla, and, when cool, turn it into the serving dish, a flat round glass dish if possible. Heap the whites on top in a pyramid. Dust thickly with the chopped almonds and send to the table. This may also be garnished with candied cherries, blocks of candied pineapple or home made preserves or jelly. PARSON'S SPONGE Line a glass dish with lady fingers or pieces of stale sponge cake. Sprinkle over thickly a mixture of chopped nuts. Pour in at the last moment a floating island, heaping the whites on top as in the preceding recipe. ALMOND CUSTARD 2 peaches 1 pint of milk 2 eggs 1/2 cup of stale bread crumbs 10 drops of bitter almond 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar 2 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar Pare the peaches, cut them into slices, and put in the bottom of a small serving dish. Put the milk in a double boiler over the fire. Separate the eggs; beat the yolks with granulated sugar. Add to them, gradually, the hot milk. Turn this into the double boiler. Cook just a moment until it sticks to a knife blade. Take from the fire, stir in half the bread crumbs, and add the flavoring. Reserve from the remaining bread crumbs one tablespoonful, and put the rest over the peaches in the dish. Pour the custard on top. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff and frothy; add the powdered sugar and beat again. Drop these by teaspoonfuls on hot water, lift with a skimmer, drain and slip them at once on top of the pudding. Dust with the tablespoonful of bread crumbs, and stand aside until cold. Stale cake or biscuit crumbs may be substituted for bread crumbs. CARAMEL CUSTARD 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 pint of milk 3 eggs Melt six tablespoonfuls of extra sugar by putting it into an iron saucepan over the fire. The sugar will first soften, then grow quite moist, breaking down into a molasses -like mixture. It should be quite brown. Pour a tablespoonful of this into the bottom of each custard cup. While hot and liquid, whirl the cups around so that they are fairly lined with this caramel. Beat the eggs without separating, until light; add the sugar, then the milk. Pour this into the cups on top of the caramel. Stand them in a baking-pan half filled with hot water, and bake in the oven about twenty minutes until they are set in the centre. Run a spoon handle down in the centre; if it comes out clean it is done; if milky you must cook a little longer. Take from the oven, let them stand a moment, and turn out into an individual saucer. Serve cold. BREAD CUSTARD 3 slices of bread 4 eggs 1/4 cup of sugar 1 quart of milk Beat the eggs without separating, add the sugar, then the milk. When the sugar is dissolved, pour the mixture into a baking dish, cover the top with the bread, butter side up. Bake in a moderate oven until set or solid. Serve cold. This is an exceedingly nice custard for a children's supper. POTATO CUSTARD 4 good-sized potatoes 1 quart of milk 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 4 eggs 1/2 cup of sugar 1 quarter of a grated nutmeg Pare the potatoes, wash in cold water, and grate them quickly into the milk. Potatoes , containing malic acid, become discol ored the moment they are exposed to the air. Beat the eggs without separating; add the sugar, then add this to the milk. Add the cinnamon, and pour the mixture into a baking-dish; bake in a moderate oven about three-quarters of an hour. Serve as a dessert, the same as you would any other form of custard. This pudding may be varied by changing the flavoring; vanilla may be added, or half a cup of finely chopped almonds. This same mixture may be poured into pie dishes lined with paste and baked in the oven under the name of white potatoes pie. The whites are usually reserved and made into a meringue to put over the top at the last minute. Without the sugar and cinnamon, this may be served in the place of meat at luncheon or supper. A half cup of grated cheese will give it a greater meat value. CHESTNUT CREAMS 1 pint of chestnuts 1 pint of cream 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1/2 cup of powdered sugar Scald the chestnuts and remove the brown skins. Cover them with boiling water, add the juice of half a lemon, and cook until the chestnuts are tender; drain, put the saucepan back on the fire, until they are dry; then press them through a col ander. Whip the cream and let it stand for a few minutes; add that which "goes back" to the chestnuts, then add the sugar and the vanilla. Fold in carefully the whipped cream, and stand aside to cool. Serve heaped on a flat dish. SWEET PURéE OF CHESTNUTS WITH WHIPPED CREAM 1 pint of chestnuts 1/2 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 pint of cream Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Cover them with boiling water, add the juice of half a lemon, cook until tender, drain, and sprinkle them with sugar; add the vanilla, and press the whole through a colander, arranging it carefully in the centre of a round dish. Whip the cream; put it around the dish, and, when cool, serve. SPONGES "Sponges" are thickened with gelatin. They contain both eggs and gelatin, are nitrogenous or muscle-building foods, and should be used after a light dinner. One recipe will answer for all sponges, the name corresponding with the flavoring. COFFEE SPONGE 1/2 box (one ounce) gelatin 1/2 cup of sugar 1 pint of strong coffee Whites of four eggs Cover the gelatin with a quarter cup of cold water, and let it stand for a half hour; then add the sugar, and pour over the boiling coffee; stir until the gelatin is dissolved. Stand into a bowl, and place it in a pan of ice water or cracked ice. Beat the whites. Stir the mixture in the bowl until it begins to slightly thicken, quickly add the eggs, and with a paddle stir from the bottom and sides of the bowl. Keep turning the bowl while you are stirring. If the coffee mixture is too thick before the cream is added, the sponge will have a lumpy appearance. When the sponge begins to stiffen, turn it into a mold, and stand aside in a cold place. For CHOCOLATE SPONGE use, in place of coffee, a pint of milk, two ounces of chocolate or two rounding tablespoonfuls of cocoa, moistened. Sweeten with the same amount of sugar, add the gelatin and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Finish as in preceding recipe. ORANGE SPONGE 1/2 box of gelatin 1 cup of sugar 1 pint of orange juice Whites of four eggs Soak the gelatin in a half cup of cold water for a half hour. Stand it over hot water until dissolved. Add the sugar and then the orange juice. Beat the whites. Turn the orange mixture in a basin. Stand in a pan of ice water, stir for a moment, and then turn in the eggs. Stir continuously from the sides and bottom of the pan until thoroughly mixed and slightly thick ened. Turn into a mold and stand in a cold place. These are to be served without sauce, perfectly plain. Strawberry, Raspberry and Currant sponges are made in precisely the same way. WASHINGTON SPONGE 1/2 box (one ounce) of gelatin 1 cup of sugar 1 pint of boiling water 1/2 cup of cold water 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use it Whites of three eggs Cover the gelatin with the cold water and let it soak a half hour; then add the sugar, the boiling water, and the juice of two lemons; stir until the sugar is dissolved; add the vanilla, strain, and when cold and slightly thickened, drop in the unbeaten whites of the eggs, and add the wine. Stand the bowl in a pan of ice water and, with an ordinary egg whip, beat the mixture until it is white as snow. If the mixture is too thin, the gelatin will settle to the bottom. It is a waste of time to begin to beat until the mixture is sufficiently congealed to hold the air. Turn into a mold, and stand aside until per fectly cold. Serve with soft custard sauce made from the yolks of the eggs. ST. PETERSBURG WHIP Make amber jelly, which may be a coffee or a lemon jelly colored with a teaspoonful of caramel; stand it in a cold place over night. Next morning make the recipe for Washington sponge. When the pudding is whipped to a stiff froth, turn in the mold. Cut the amber jelly in cubes of one inch, carefully stir them into the pudding, and turn the mixture in a fancy mold that has been dipped in cold water. Stand in a cold place for three or four hours. BAVARIAN CREAMS These are like the sponges, except that cream is substituted for the whites of eggs. These are heat and force foods, rather than muscle-building. The first group should be used where the dinner was composed largely of vegetable foods. The Bavarian creams may be used after meat dinners. STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM Mash sufficient strawberries through a colander to make a pint. Cover a half box of gelatin with a half cup of cold water, and soak a half hour; add half a cup of powdered sugar to the strawberry juice, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Stand the gelatin over hot water until melted. Add it to the straw berry juice. Stand the bowl in a pan of ice water or cracked ice, and in a moment as it begins to thicken, turn in the cream, whipped to a stiff froth. Mix quickly and thoroughly, and turn at once into a mold. This should be served plain. All fruit juices may be substituted for strawberry juice, using the same proportions. For COFFEE and CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAMS, use the same proportion as for coffee and chocolate sponge, substituting a pint of cream, whipped, for the whites of the eggs. CHARLOTTE RUSSE 1 pint of cream 1/4 box of gelatin 2/3 cup of powdered sugar 1 teaspoonful vanilla 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use it Cover the gelatin with a half cup of cold water; let it soak while you whip the cream. Turn the cream into a bowl; sprinkle over the sugar. Dissolve the gelatin over hot water; add four tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, and strain it into the whipped cream; add the flavoring. Stand the bowl in a pan of cracked ice or ice water; stir carefully and continuously from sides and bottom of the pan until the mixture begins to Molds for Jellies and Creams Page 566 An illustration of Molds for Jellies and Creams. Mold for Boned Turkey or Chicken Page 566 An illustration of Molds for turkey or Chicken. thicken. Turn at once into a mold, and stand in a cold place The mold may be lined with lady fingers, or it may be turned out on a sheet of sponge cake, or it may be served on a layer of lady fingers in the bottom of a glass dish. NUT CHARLOTTE This is made precisely the same as Charlotte Russe, substituting a half cup of mixed chopped nuts for the vanilla and wine. PRINCESS CHARLOTTE Line a perfectly round mold with the rolled wafers. Fasten them together with a little melted sugar or dissolved gelatin. When perfectly cold, lift from the mold, place them in the serv ing dish, and fill the centre with plain Charlotte Russe. Dust the top with grated macaroons or chopped pistachio nuts, or it may be garnished with candied fruits. JERUSALEM PUDDING 1/2 box of gelatin 1/2 cup of powdered sugar 1 pint of cream 4 tablespoonfuls of rice 1/4 pound of dates 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Cover the gelatin with a half cup of cold water, and soak a half hour. Wash the rice, throw it in a saucepan of boiling water, boil rapidly for thirty minutes, drain, and spread it out on a dry towel or napkin. Stone the dates and chop them fine. Whip the cream, put it in a bowl, and stand in a pan of ice water and cracked ice. Sprinkle over, first, the dry rice, then add the dates, then sprinkle over this the sugar, and add the vanilla. Stand the gelatin over hot water; when it is dissolved, add it to the cream, and begin at once to stir, and stir continu ously until the whole is well mixed, and the rice can be seen throughout the mixture, not sinking in the cream. Turn at once into a mold and stand in a cold place. Serve with whipped cream, heaped around the base. The pudding may be dusted with chopped pistachio nuts, when turned from the mold. RICE JELLY 1 pint of cream 1/4 box of gelatin 1/4 cup of rice 1/2 tumbler of quince jelly Cover the gelatin with a half cup of cold water, and soak for a half hour. Wash the rice in cold water, put it in two quarts of cold water, boil for thirty minutes, and drain. Stir or toss it with a fork until it is dry and light. Whip the cream, put it in a bowl, stand it in a pan of ice water, and sprinkle over the sugar, then the rice. Stand the gelatin over hot water, and, when melted, strain it in the warm mixture. Stir at once continuously until the whole is thoroughly mixed and the rice remains on top of the cream. Turn into mold, and stand in a cold place. When ready to serve turn from the mold on a deep round dish. Put the quince jelly, with a half pint of water, over the fire; stir until it melts; stand it aside until cold, then strain it over the rice jelly, and send it to the table. Other jellies may be substituted for quince. A GROUP OF PLAIN DESSERTS VELVET CREAM 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 pint of good cream 1/3 box of gelatin Add the sugar to the cream, and stir until it is dissolved; add the gelatin that has been soaked in a half cup of cold water for a half hour, and dissolved over hot water. Mix a moment, turn into individual molds, and stand on the ice to harden. This may be served with hot chocolate or coffee sauce. OLD-FASHIONED RICE PUDDING 2 quarts of milk 6 tablespoonfuls of rice 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1/2 cup of raisins Add the rice dry to the milk; add the sugar, and the raisins, stoned, and, if you like, a grating of nutmeg. Turn this into a pudding dish, and place in a moderate oven to bake for two hours. As soon as the first crust forms, which will take fifteen minutes, stir it down, at the same time stirring the rice. Do this every fifteen minutes for one hour. Then allow another crust to quickly form and brown; this will take about thirty minutes. Take from the fire and stand aside to cool. This, if well made, will be of a golden color, rich, creamy and delicious. If you are using the oven, you may stand the baking pan on the back part of the stove, and let it carefully cook for one hour; then put it in the oven to brown. RICE AND RAISINS 1 cup of rice 1 cup of stoned raisins Wash the rice through several cold waters, throw it into three quarts of boiling water, and boil rapidly for fifteen minutes; drain in a colander, and pour over it a pitcher of cold water. While this is boiling, cover the raisins with a small quantity of boiling water. In a brown bread mold or kettle, put a layer of rice, then a sprinkling of raisins, another layer of rice, a sprinkling of raisins, and so continue until the materials are used. Stand this mold in a kettle of boiling water, cover, and boil continuously for thirty minutes. Turn it out carefully on a round dish, and serve it with plain milk or cream. RICE DUMPLINGS 1/2 pint of rice Fruit Wash the rice in several cold waters, throw it into plenty of boiling water, and boil rapidly for twenty minutes; strain. Have ready six squares of cheese cloth. Spread some rice in the centre of each square, a half inch thick and the size of a saucer. In the centre of this place a half peach or apricot, put a little rice into the place from which the stone was taken, put over the other half, gather up the sides of the cloth so that the rice will entirely cover the fruit, and tie tightly. When all are made throw them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil continuously for fifteen minutes. When done, remove the cloths carefully, heap the dumplings on a round dish, and send to the table with peach or apricot pudding sauce, or serve with milk or cream. Apples may be substituted for peaches or apricots. GRANDMOTHER'S RICE PUDDING 1 cup of rice 1 1/2 quarts of milk 1/2 cup of raisins 1 saltspoonful of cinnamon 1/4 nutmeg grated Wash the rice through several cold waters, cover it with a quart of the milk, and stand in a cold place over night. Next morning add the nutmeg, cinnamon, the remaining pint of milk and the raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (about 280° Fahr.) for three-quarters of an hour, stirring down the first crust only. This pudding must be creamy and soft. MOCK CHARLOTTE 1 pint of water 4 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 1/2 cup of sugar 4 eggs Moisten the cornstarch with a half cup of water, add the pint of boiling water, and stir until it reaches the boiling point. Add the sugar, and pour slowly, while hot, into the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and turn at once into a mold. Serve with a soft custard sauce made from a pint of milk and the yolks of the eggs. If the yolks are needed for other dishes, this pudding may be garnished with fruit and served with fruit sauce. FRUIT GELATIN 1 box of gelatin 1 cup of sugar 1/2 pound of dates 1/2 pound of figs 1 quart of boiling water 1/2 pint of cold water Juice of two lemons Cover the gelatin with cold water, add the sugar, lemon juice, Mock Charlotte Page 570 An illustration of Mock Charlotte. Fruit Cannelons Page 573 An illustration of a Fruit Cannelons. Whole Wheat Pudding Page 575 An illustration of Whole Wheat Pudding. and then pour over the quart of boiling water; stir until the sugar is dissolved. Moisten the mold in cold water. Chop the figs and dates, and put them loosely into the mold; pour over carefully the jelly, and stand aside to harden. Serve with whipped cream. Different fresh fruits may be substituted for the dried fruits -? pineapple, banana, strawberries or white grapes. There must be just sufficient gelatin to cover the fruit or the fruit will float. AMBER JELLY 1 box of gelatin 1 cup of sugar 2 lemons 1/2 pint of cold water 1 quart of boiling water 1 teaspoonful of caramel Cover the gelatin with cold water, and let it soak a half hour. Put the sugar in boiling water, and add the grated rind of one lemon; bring to the boiling point, take from the fire, add the gelatin, the lemon juice and the caramel; strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. Have ready a good-sized mold, moistened in cold water. Put a layer of gelatin in the bottom of the mold, stand it aside to harden. Allow the remaining gelatin to become cold, but not thick. On top of the jelly in the mold place a large bunch of grapes or roses or violets, according to the meal for which it is to be used. Now pour over the remaining jelly that is cold, not hard,and stand the mold aside over night. This may be garnished with chopped fruits or flowers. A GROUP OF SIMPLE HOT PUDDINGS CONTAINING EGGS OR MILK BAKED INDIAN PUDDING 1 quart of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of corn meal 1/2 cup of molasses 1 tablespoonful of ginger 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Put the milk in a double boiler, moisten the corn meal with a little cold milk, and add to the hot milk; add the molasses, salt and spice. Now add four tablespoonfuls of butter, mix, pour into a baking dish, and put in a moderate oven. As soon as the pudding begins to thicken, stir in thoroughly one pint of cold milk. Bake slowly for three hours. Serve warm with maple syrup or hard sauce. BAKED BATTER PUDDING 1/2 pint of cream 1 1/2 cups of flour 2 eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder Separate the eggs, beat the yolks, add the milk, then the butter, melted, then the flour and baking powder sifted together. Beat them five minutes, turn into a shallow greased baking pan, and cover the top with fruit; dust with four tablespoonfuls of gran ulated sugar, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Serve warm with hard sauce or with plain milk or cream. If PEACHES are used, cut them into halves, removing the stone; press them, rounding side up, into the batter. For APPLE PUDDING, pare, core and quarter the apples, and use them the same as the peaches. BLACKBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, CHERRIES AND HUCKLEBERRIES, may all in turn be used. Thus you have from this one recipe six different puddings. NOTE.-?Have the pan sufficiently large to hold the batter, not over an inch thick. CREAM PUDDING 6 tart apples 1 pint of sour cream 2 1/2 cups of flour 1 level teaspoonful of soda Pare, cut and quarter the apples. Dissolve the soda in two tablespoonfuls of warm water; add the cream; mix until foam-ing; add the flour, and beat until smooth. Pour this into the bottom of a greased baking pan which has been nearly filled with the apples. Bake in a moderately quick oven one hour. Serve hot, with hard sauce or milk. If sour milk is used in place of sour cream, add one table spoonful of creamed butter. This would also be true of butter milk. BRIOCHE 5 ounces of butter 1/2 pound of flour 5 eggs 1 yeast cake 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 2 tablespoonfuls of milk Dissolve the yeast cake in a quarter cup of warm water, stir in sufficient flour to make a biscuit, cut the biscuit across the top and drop it into a pitcher nearly filled with warm water. Put the flour into a bowl; make a well in the centre, into which put the butter, sugar, milk and the eggs, well beaten. By this time the biscuit will have come to the surface of the water in the pitcher. Lift the biscuit with a skimmer, and put it in with the other ingredients. Now, with your two fingers and thumb, work all together, taking in gradually the flour. Work it lightly but thoroughly, as you would bread. Cover the bowl and stand it in a warm place (75° Fahr.) for four hours, or in a cooler place over night. When light, turn it out and roll it carefully into a long thick roll. Put the two ends together, twist it like rope, and fold it around in a Turk's head, keeping it well twisted; or you may put it in a small round mold. Cover and stand in a warm place for about two and a half hours, or until it is very light. Bake in a quick oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve warm with purée of apricot or peaches. NOTE.?-When this batter is thoroughly twisted, baked in individual molds, and served with a brandy sauce, it is BABA or WINE CAKES. CANNELONS 1 quart of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of ground or finely chopped nuts 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1 1/2 cups of milk 1 pint of fruit 1 tablespoonful of sugar In this we have a sort of pie or pastry, shortened with nuts and made from uncooked fruits. Add the baking powder and the salt to the flour, sift them three or four times; add the nuts, mix thoroughly and add the milk. Add each slowly, as the dough must be moist, but not wet. Knead quickly, roll out into a sheet one-half inch in thickness, cut into strips one inch wide and twelve inches long; roll them quickly around a cannelon mold, brush them on top with milk or the yolk of an egg, dust lightly with granulated sugar, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Slightly sweeten the fruit. When the cannelons are done, remove the molds, fill these spaces with fruit, heap them on a platter and send at once to the table with a pitcher of cream or milk. BREAD PUDDING 1/2 cup of molasses 1/2 pint of milk 1 level teaspoonful of cinnamon 2 eggs 1 quart of stale bits of bread Break the bread, cover it with milk and let it soak twenty minutes. Then add the molasses, the milk and cinnamon, and at last the well-beaten eggs. Turn into well-greased baking dish, bake in a moderate oven until "set" or jelly-like. Serve with milk or lemon sauce. This is frequently used warm without sauce. COTTAGE GEMS 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2/3 cup of sugar 1/2 cup of milk 1 1/2 cups of flour 1 teaspoonful of baking powder Beat the butter, and to the cream add gradually the sugar; then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat until light. Sift the flour and the baking powder. Beat the white of the egg; add first a little milk, then flour until both are used. Beat well and stir in gradually the well-beaten white. Bake in twelve greased gem pans in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve at once with orange, lemon or jelly sauce. WHOLE WHEAT PUDDING 1 pint of whole wheat flour 1/2 teaspoonful of soda 1 cup of raisins 1 cup of sour milk 1/2 cup of molasses 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Mix the soda, flour and salt, and sift twice. Add the sour milk to the molasses, then add the flour, beat well, and add the raisins, seeded and flour ed. Turn into a greased mold or ordinary lard pail, cover, stand in a pot containing about four inches of boiling water, cover the pot, and boil continuously for two and a half hours. It is always well to protect the bot tom of the pot with an iron stand or rack, to remove the dan ger of burning. Serve warm with fruit sauce. Huckleberries, dried currants, chopped dates or figs may be substituted for the raisins. HOMINY PUDDING 1 cup of cold boiled hominy grits 1 cup of sweet cream 1 1/2 cups of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder 2 eggs Separate the eggs. Add the milk to the yolks, then the hominy; mix until smooth and free from lumps. Add the salt, the flour and baking-powder sifted together; beat thoroughly, and stir in carefully the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in hot, greased gem pans in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve with lemon sauce. STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE 1 quart of strawberries 1 pint of flour 1 teaspoonful of baking powder 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 1/2 cups of flour Sift the baking-powder and flour several times; rub in thoroughly the butter; add the milk gradually until you have a dough sufficiently soft to handle easily. Turn it out on the board, knead, roll into a sheet a half inch in thickness, and cut it into a large round or oblong cake. Put it at once into a greased baking pan. Brush the top with milk and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Stem and mash the berries, and add a cup of sugar. As soon as the short-cake is thor- oughly baked, take it from the oven, separate by pulling it apart, do not cut it, lay the top crust aside and put half the strawberries over the under crust. Put on the top crust, and cover it with the remaining berries. Send at once to the table. Serve with it, if possible, a pitcher of cream. Milk cannot be substituted; better eat it plain, than to mix milk with the ber ries. For BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY and PEACH SHORT-CAKE, substitute these fruits for the strawberries. OATMEAL PUDDING 1 pint of milk 1/2 pint of cold cooked oatmeal 4 eggs 1/2 cup of corn meal 1/2 pound of dates Stone and cut the dates in quarters; put them over the bottom of a shallow, greased baking pan. Put the milk in a double boiler over the fire; when hot, add the corn meal. Cook until rather thick and smooth. Add the oatmeal. Take from the fire, and add the yolks of the eggs, then fold in the well-beaten whites. Turn at once into the baking pan on top of the chopped dates, and bake in a moderately quick oven (about 300° Fahr.) for a half hour. Serve hot or warm with cream or milk. Raisins, figs or other dried fruits may be substituted for dates. CORN DUMPLINGS 1 pint of corn meal 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Put the corn meal into a boiler, and pour over just sufficient water to moisten, not to make it wet; add the butter and salt. Throw a cloth over the bowl, and allow it to stand for one hour; then add one egg, well beaten. Make into dumplings either with a tablespoon or in the hand. Tie each in a piece of cheese cloth, leaving sufficient room for swelling. Put them in a kettle of boiling water; boil slowly but continuously for one hour. Serve hot with liquid pudding sauce, or fruit juice. ENGLISH BREAD PUDDING 1 pint of soft bread crumbs 1/2 cup of dried currants or raisins 2 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 1/2 cups of milk Grease small custard cups or an ordinary baking pan, and put in the bread crumbs. The better way to make the crumbs, is to take a whole slice and roll it between the hands. The fruit may be mixed with the crumbs or it may be spread on top or on the bottom of the pan. If it is used over the top, it will, of course, form a bottom layer when the pudding is turned out, giving a good appearance. Beat the eggs without separating, add the sugar and then the milk. When the sugar is dissolved, pour carefully over the bread crumbs. Let this stand ten minutes, and place it in a shallow baking pan, partly filled with water. Bake in a quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes. The mixture must be "set" in the centre. Turn out carefully and serve with a liquid pudding sauce. FARMER'S PUDDING 1 quart of milk 1 cup of corn meal 1 cup of currants or raisins 1 cup of chopped suet 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger 1/2 cup of flour 1 teaspoonful of baking powder Put the milk in a double boiler over the fire. When hot, stir in the corn meal and cook until smooth and creamy. Take from the fire, and when cool, not cold, add the currants, suet, salt, ginger, and the flour and baking-powder sifted together. Mix well, turn into a greased mold or kettle, and boil or steam three hours. Serve hot with apple pudding sauce. SLUMP 1 pint of flour 1 teaspoonful of baking powder 2 cups of milk Fruit Under this head we give a general recipe for slump made from the various kinds of fruit. The fruit is cooked over the fire. When nearly done cover it with the crust, cover carefully the kettle, and cook continuously for twenty minutes, without lifting the lid. The mixture is simple, easily digested and palatable. It may be served with cream or milk, or eaten plain. Put the flour into a bowl, add the baking-powder, sift once or twice, then add gradually the milk. Turn the dough on the board; roll in a sheet a half inch thick; cut it in biscuits, and stand these over the fruit. For APPLE SLUMP, pare, core and quarter the apples, cover them with water, add two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar; stew until tender; place over the biscuits or crust; cover, and cook ten minutes without lifting the lid. PEACHES, BLACKBERRIES, HUCKLEBERRIES, may be used in the place of apples. Apples and peaches, however, are to be preferred. NUN'S PUFFS 4 eggs 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 pint of flour Beat the eggs without separating, until light, add the milk; pour this gradually into the flour, mix and beat until smooth. Strain through an ordinary strainer, and pour at once into twelve greased muffin cups or gem pans. Bake in a moderate oven (300° Fahr.) for thirty minutes. If the oven is too hot, the puffs will not be light. They must bake until they are like little balloons. If they fall when taken from the oven, they are not done. Serve warm with liquid pudding sauce. VANILLA SOUFFLé 1/2 pint of milk 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 4 eggs Put the milk in a double boiler over the fire. Moisten the flour in about four tablespoonfuls of milk; add to it gradually the hot milk, mix and stand it back into the double boiler; cook over the fire until smooth and thick. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, slightly beaten, and then stir in gradually the well-beaten whites. Put into ten greased custard cups. Stand these cups in a shallow pan half filled with water, and bake in a moderately quick oven twenty minutes. When done, remove them carefully into individual saucers. Serve with vanilla sauce. When these are served with lemon sauce, they are called Lemon Soufflé . With orange, Orange Soufflé. With peach, Peach Soufflé. BAKEWELL PUDDING 1 pint of bread crumbs 3 eggs 1 pint of milk 1/4 cup of sugar 4 ounces of finely chopped nuts 1/2 pint of fruit Cover the bottom of the baking dish with the fruit, chopped. Sprinkle the bread crumbs over the top. Beat the eggs without separating; add the sugar, then the milk, then the chopped nuts. Pour this over the crumbs and bake in a moderately quick oven one hour. OMELETTE SOUFFLéE Whites of six eggs Yolks of three eggs 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar The grated yellow rind of half a lemon 1/2 teaspoonful of lemon juice Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff and frothy; sift over the sugar and beat again until fine and dry; add the yolks slightly beaten, the lemon rind and juice. Mix quickly, carefully and thoroughly, put at once into a baking dish, dust the top thickly with powdered sugar, and bake in an oven at 400° Fahr. five minutes. CAUTION.?-The oven must be ready before you begin the soufflée. It must be taken at once from the oven to the table. If it is stringy inside, it has been baked too long. To be right, it must be hot but soft. It must be served in the dish in which it is baked. If you are an expert, put the soufflée into pastry, use a star tube, and press it out on a platter, making either a large rope-like mound, or rosettes. A pyramid of roses is always attractive. Dust it with sugar and bake as directed. An omelette souffiée is one of the most elegant of desserts. PRUNE SOUFFLé 1/2 pint of stewed prunes Whites of six eggs Yolks of three eggs Remove the stones, and press the prunes through a sieve to remove the skins. Add to them the yolks slightly beaten. Fold in the well-beaten whites, turn at once into a baking dish, dust the top with powdered sugar, and bake in a quick oven five to six minutes. Other fruit in the same proportion may be substituted for prunes. A soufflé is to be recommended on account of its simplicity and wholesomeness. ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING 1 pound of raisins 1 pound of suet 3/4 pound of stale dried bread crumbs 1/4 pound of flour 5 eggs 1 pound of dried currants 1/2 pound of shredded candied orange peel 1/2 pound of mixed nuts 1/2 nutmeg (grated) 1/2 pint of grape juice Stone the raisins, mix them and the currants with the orange peel, sprinkle over the flour, and mix until each particle of fruit is well flour ed. Then add the nuts that have been blanched and chopped fine. If you use pinon or pine- nuts, put them in whole. Add the nutmeg, bread crumbs, and the suet, chopped. Beat the eggs without separating until light. Add the grape juice, pour this over the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. The pudding must be moist, not wet. Pack the mixture in greased small kettles or molds, cover and boil or steam, ten hours. When done, remove the lids, and allow the pudding to cool. When cold, put on the lids, wipe off the kettles, and put them away. When wanted for use, re-heat by boiling or steaming one hour. This will keep for months, in fact, it is better and more digestible when old than fresh. Serve with hardor liquid sauce, or both. A GROUP OF DESSERTS FLAVORED WITH CHOCOLATE 1/2 pint of tapioca 4 ounces of chocolate 1/2 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Wash the tapioca, cover it with a pint and a half of cold water, and soak two hours. Put the chocolate in the upper part of the double boiler, turn in, on top of it, the tapioca, add the sugar, and cook until the tapioca is transparent; stir three or four times. When done, take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn out to cool. This may be served plain or with cream or milk. CHOCOLATE CREAM PUDDING 2 ounces of chocolate 3 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 1 pint of boiling water Whites of three eggs 1/2 cup of sugar Moisten the cornstarch with six tablespoonfuls of cold water, add hastily the boiling water, cook for a moment, add the sugar and the chocolate grated, stir until the mixture is smooth and the chocolate thoroughly dissolved. Pour while hot into the well-beaten whites; turn at once into a mold and stand in a cool place for three or four hours. Serve with hot chocolate sauce. CHOCOLATE PUDDING 1/4 cup of butter 4 ounces of chocolate 1 cup of sugar 4 eggs 2 1/2 cups of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1/4 pound of marshmallows 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1/2 cup of water Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually; beat until light. Add the yolks of the eggs and the chocolate grated. Beat the whites of the eggs, sift the flour and the baking-powder, and measure the water. Add first a little water, then flour, and so alternate until the whole has been used. Beat vigorously for three minutes; then stir in carefully the whites. Bake in greased gem pans in a moderate oven a half hour. While these are baking, make a sauce by putting the marshmallows with a gill of water into a double boiler. Stir until perfectly smooth, and about the thickness of cream. Take from the fire, add the vanilla and turn into sauce boat. In serving, put a tablespoonful of this sauce over the top of each little pudding. CHOCOLATE FLOATING ISLAND 1 quart of milk 3 eggs 2 ounces of chocolate 2 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar Separate the eggs. Beat the whites until they are very stiff, drop them by spoonfuls over the top of the saucepan of boiling water. Let them remain just an instant to fix the cells; lift them with a skimmer, drain, and put aside to cool. Put the milk in a double boiler, add the chocolate, grated, cook and stir until smooth. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk, add to the hot milk, when smooth add the yolks and sugar that have been beaten together. Take from the fire, and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. When this is cool, pour it into the serving dish, heap over the top the whites of the eggs. Serve cold. CHOCOLATE BLANC MANGE 1 pint of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 3 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 2 ounces of chocolate Heat the chocolate in a double boiler; when melted add the milk. When the milk is heated, stir thoroughly and add the sugar. Moisten the cornstarch in a half cup of cold milk, add it to the hot milk, cook until thick and smooth. Take from the fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and pour into small cups or molds that have been moistened with cold water. Serve cold with plain cream or milk. CHARLOTTE SOUFFLé 2 ounces of chocolate 1/2 pint of milk 4 eggs 3 tablespoonfuls of flour Put the chocolate into a saucepan; when melted add the milk; stir until hot and well mixed. Moisten the flour in four tablespoonfuls of cold milk; add it to the hot milk; stir until smooth and thick. Take from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs, cook just a moment longer, take again from the fire, and fold in carefully the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Turn at once into a baking dish, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Serve hot with chocolate or vanilla sauce. CHOCOLATE FARINA 1 pint of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of farina 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 3 eggs 2 ounces of chocolate 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the milk in a double boiler; when hot sprinkle in the farina. Cook slowly for ten minutes. Add the grated chocolate to the yolks of the eggs and the sugar, and then to the hot milk; stir for a moment, take from the fire, and fold in the well-beaten whites. Turn this at once into a pudding dish; stand in a pan partly filled with hot water. Bake in a moderately hot oven twenty-five or thirty minutes. Serve at once. Plain or with vanilla sauce. A GROUP OF DESSERTS WITHOUT EGGS OR MILK Under this head one may find desserts composed of starchy material and fruits. Each recipe will be given for fresh fruit. Canned or dried fruits may be substituted. The dry fruits must be soaked over night, and brought to boiling point. APPLE DUMPLINGS 1 quart of flour 1 tablespoonful of shortening 6 medium-sized apples 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1/2 teaspoonful of salt Mix the baking-powder and salt with flour; sift it three times, then rub in the shortening. Add sufficient water to moisten the mixture; it must not be wet. Knead quickly, roll out into a sheet a fourth of an inch thick. Put down a saucer and cut around with a sharp knife. When the dough is cut into rounds, place a pared and cored apple in the centre of each. Fill the space from which the core was taken, with granulated sugar, and, if you like, a saltspoonful of cinnamon; fold the dough around, over the apple, pinching it down so as to thoroughly encase the apple. Roll it in your hand until perfectly round, stand in a greased baking-pan, sprinkle the tops with a table-spoonful of sugar dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water, and bake in quick oven twenty minutes. Try by putting a fork in the top of the dumplings; if the apples are tender they are done. This recipe will answer for Pears, Peaches, Apricots or the large Plums. ROLY POLY The filling of this pudding may be composed of any suitable materials that one has in the house. 1 pint of flour 1 rounding tablespoonful of baking powder 1 tablespoonful of shortening 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 2/3 cups of water Add the baking-powder and salt to the flour, sift once or twice, add the water carefully. The dough must be soft, not wet. Knead quickly and roll out into a very thin sheet. Brush with melted butter or melted suet or oil. Sprinkle over blackberries, huckleberries, raspberries, currants, or chopped dates, figs and raisins; in fact, almost any combination of fruits may be used. Sprinkle with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and roll up; place in a baking-pan; brush the roll with water, and bake in a moderately quick oven three-quarters of an hour. After the roll has been baking a half hour, draw it from the oven, brush it quickly with a tablespoonful of sugar dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of water, and return to glaze. Serve hot with hard sauce; or it may be served with sugar. If dry fruits are used for roly poly, they must be soaked over night and chopped fine in the morning. Do not cook them before putting them into the pudding. STRAWBERRY SAGO Wash a half pint of sago through several cold waters, cover with a pint and a half of cold water, and soak for two hours. Cook in a double boiler until transparent. Stem and wash strawberries, put them into a serving dish. When the tapioca is cool, not cold, pour it over the berries, and stand aside until perfectly cold. Serve with sugar. RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, HUCKLEBERRIES and PINEAPPLE may be used in the place of strawberries. PINEAPPLE à l'IMPERATRICE Pare and pick a pineapple into small pieces with a fork, rejecting the core; cover it with six tablespoonfuls of sugar, and stand aside for one hour. Wash through several cold waters a half pint of rice; throw it into three quarts of boiling water, boil rapidly for thirty minutes, drain in a colander, stand at the oven door a moment until perfectly dry. Heap this in the centre of a fiat dish, making it a little smooth over the top, arrange over it the pineapple, baste it with syrup, and send at once to the table. PEACHES, APRICOTS, PEARS or APPLES may be used in the same way. GRAPE SAGO 1/2 pint of sago 1 1/2 pints of cold water 1/2 pint of grape juice 1/2 pint of sugar Wash the sago, cover it with cold water and soak over night. In the morning, cook in a double boiler until transparent; add the sugar and grape juice. When cool, turn it in a glass dish, stand aside until perfectly cold. This may be served with plain sauce made of slightly sweetened grape juice. Where grape juice cannot be obtained, Currant, Raspberry or Blackberry Jelly may be substituted. Thin a tumbler of jelly with a half pint of hot water. FLUMMERIES Flummery is thickened fruit. The small fruits are always to be preferred. Put a pint of blackberries in a pint of water over the fire, bring to boiling point and add two rounding table-spoonfuls of cornstarch moistened in six tablespoonfuls of water; bring again to boiling point, stirring constantly; add a half cup of sugar and turn out to cool. This may be eaten plain or with milk if it is accessible. Other small fruits may be substituted for blackberries. GINGER SPONGE SLICES 1/2 pint of molasses 2 ounces of butter 1 level teaspoonful of soda 2 cups of flour Heat the molasses slightly; dissolve the soda in two tablespoonfuls of warm water, add hot molasses, then the butter, melted, and stir in quickly the flour; turn into a shallow greased baking-pan; bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Serve warm, cut into squares, with lemon or ginger sauce. STEAMED MOLASSES PUDDING 1 cup of water 1 cup of molasses 1 cup of finely chopped suet 3 cups of flour 1 level teaspoonful of soda 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of cinnamon 1 saltspoonful of cloves Free the suet from the membrane and chop it rather fine. Add it and the spice to the flour; dissolve the soda in two tablespoonfuls of the water, and add it with the remaining water to the molasses. Mix and then stir in the flour. Beat well, turn into a well-buttered mold or kettle, and steam or boil for four hours. Currants, raisins or citrons may be flour ed and added to this pudding. Serve warm with hardor liquid pudding sauce. ORANGE WHIP 1/2 box of gelatin (one ounce) 1 pint of orange juice 1/2 cup of cold water 2/3 cup of sugar Cover the gelatin with the cold water, let it soak for half an hour, stand it over hot water until dissolved. Add the sugar, stir until melted, and strain this into the orange juice. Stand aside until partly jellied, then whip with an ordinary egg beater until the whole mixture is like the white of beaten egg. Turn at once into a mold, stand away to harden. This is to be served plain or with a compote of oranges. This recipe will answer for all "whips," using precisely the same proportions. For instance, use a pint of Strawberry or Raspberry juice or a tumbler of jelly melted in hot water. In case of using preserves or jams with water, add the juice of a lemon or the mixture will be flat and too sweet. GLAZED FRUIT BALLS Cut slices of cake into rounds about two inches in diameter; heap on top of each a pyramid of either canned or fresh fruit, such as pineapples, peaches or cherries, or any mixed candied fruits that have been soaked in orange juice. Mix a tablespoon-fulof arrowroot in two tablespoonfuls of cold water, add a half Pint of boiling water and a tablespoonful of sugar, cook a moment, take from the fire, and add a tablespoonful of maraschino. When partly cool, baste it over the fruit mounds, allow them to stand for a few minutes, then lift on individual plates, and stand in a very cold place. If made properly, the arrow-root will form a thin covering over the entire dessert. Pass with a pitcher of soft custard sauce. Rounds of toast or biscuit or zwieback may be used with any accessible fruit, and the whole may be served with plain cream or milk. Baked apples are exceedingly nice served in this way. A GROUP OF APPLE DESSERTS, VERY FEW OF WHICH CONTAIN EGGS OR MILK APPLE TAPIOCA Wash a half pint of granulated tapioca through several cold waters, cover with a pint and a half of cold water, soak for thirty minutes, and cook in a double boiler until perfectly transparent. While this is cooking, pare and core six or seven apples, put them in a baking dish, pour over the tapioca, cover the dish, and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes, or until the apples are tender. Remove the lid for about ten minutes to slightly brown the surface. Sago, Manioca and the larger tapioca may be used in the same way. Peaches, Pears, Plums or Apricots may be substituted for the apples. Either dried or canned fruits may be used. Dried fruits must be soaked, not cooked. APPLE OMELET Separate four eggs; beat the whites to a very stiff froth; then add the yolks and beat again, adding gradually two tablespoon-fuls of powdered sugar. Have ready an omelet-pan, in which you have melted a tablespoonful of butter; put in the mixture; when it begins to thicken, spread over a layer of apple sauce. Fold, turn out and serve at once with powdered sugar. APPLE PONE Pare and chop fine one quart of sweet apples. Pour a pint of boiling water into one quart of granulated white corn meal; when cool, add sufficient sweet milk, about one pint, to make a very soft batter. Stir in the apples, turn the mixture into a greased shallow pan; cover and bake in a moderate oven for at least two hours. This same recipe may be turned into a mold, steamed three hours and used as a pudding. NEW APPLE DOWDY Line a baking dish with thin slices of brown bread and butter. Fill in the space with apples, pared, cored and sliced; sprinkle over the top half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and four table-spoonfuls of dark brown sugar; pour over half a cup of water; cover the top with another layer of brown bread and butter, butter side up. Bake slowly one hour in a moderate oven. Serve with liquid sauce. SCALLOPED APPLES Pare and cut the apples into slices; put them in a baking-pan with a layer of coarse bread crumbs between each layer of apples, having the top layer crumbs. Put two tablespoonfuls of molasses into half a cup of water; pour the mixture over, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve warm as dessert. STEAMED APPLE PUDDING Line a mold with slices of bread and butter, put in a layer of stewed apples, another layer of bread and butter, another layer of apples, and so continue until you have the mold filled. Beat two eggs, add a pint of milk; pour this over the bread and apple; steam one hour, and serve with a liquid pudding sauce. APPLES AND RICE A simple dessert may be made from apples and rice. Pare and core the apples, stand them in a baking dish; fill the spaces from which the cores were taken with chopped raisins and citron; fill the spaces in the dish to the very top with rice that has been boiled for fifteen minutes. Stand the dish in the oven, covering it for fifteen minutes, and baking in all thirty minutes. Serve warm with milk or cream. FARMHOUSE APPLES Peel and core tart apples, fill the spaces from which the cores were taken with seeded raisins, bits of shredded citron, sugar and a little lemon peel; stand them in a baking-pan, pour over them half a cupful of water, dust the apples with about two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar; bake in a slow oven until perfectly tender; draw them to the oven door and sprinkle bread crumbs over the top; dust again with sugar, and allow them to remain in the oven for ten minutes. While they are baking, mix a tablespoonful of flour with a half cupful of sugar; pour over half a pint of boiling water, and boil a moment; take from the fire, and pour slowly over one well-beaten egg; add the juice of half a lemon. Pour over the apples and serve warm. APPLE FLOAT Pare two good-sized tart apples. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth; add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until fine and dry. Grate the apples into this mixture a little at a time, beating all the while. Have ready a good-sized glass dish partly filled with plain cream; heap the float by tablespoonfuls over the surface, and dot here and there with candied cherries. A simple dessert. APPLE SNOW Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth; then add slowly five or six tablespoonfuls of stewed apples, and float on either custard or plain cream. APPLE TURNOVER Put one pint of flour into a bowl; add half a teaspoonful of salt, two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; mix thoroughly, then Farmhouse Apples Page 590 An illustration of Farmhouse Apples. Ice Cream Molds An illustratio of Different Ice Cream Molds. rub into the mixture one tablespoonful of butter, and add sufficient milk to make a soft dough. Roll out in a sheet half an inch thick; cut with a biscuit cutter into circles. Put two table-spoonfuls of stewed apples on one-half the dough; fold over the other half, pinch the edges together; place these in a baking-pan, brush with milk, and bake for twenty minutes. GERMAN COMPOTE Peel and core the apples; keep them whole; throw each one as it is finished into a bowl of cold water to prevent discoloration. Place them in a baking-dish, fill the cavities with orange marmalade, pour over sufficient water to almost cover the apples, and add a little grated lemon rind. Cover, and cook until the apples are tender. Remove each carefully to a flat glass dish. Moisten a teaspoonful of arrowroot; add it to the liquor, assuming there is a half pint; if more, add a second teaspoonful; bring to boiling point, then stir in a tablespoonful of orange marmalade; pour this over the apples, garnish the dish with squares of toasted bread, and serve warm. APPLE CUSTARD 1 pint of apple pulp 4 eggs 1/2 cup of sugar 1 pint of milk Grate sufficient apples to make one pint of pulp. Separate the eggs; add the sugar to the yolks; beat, add the hot milk, cook for a moment, take from the fire, and add the apple, gradually, or the milk may curdle. Turn this into the dish in which it is to be served. Beat the whites of the eggs rather stiff; add to them three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beat again, and heap over the apple. APPLE CUP CUSTARDS 4 apples 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 4 eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 pint of milk Pare and core four good-sized apples, steam them until tender, press through a colander; add while hot the butter, the yolks of the eggs, sugar and milk. Turn this into baking-cups, and bake for twenty minutes. Beat the whites of the eggs until stiff, add sugar, beat again, heap over the top of the cups; dust thickly with powdered sugar, and brown a momentin the oven. Serve cold. APPLE CHARLOTTE Cover a half box of gelatin with half cup of cold water and soak for an hour. Whip one pint of cream, turn it in a basin, and place in another of cracked ice; add half a cup of powdered, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and two goodsized apples grated. Dissolve the gelatin over hot water, and strain it into the mixture; stir quickly but carefully until thoroughly mixed. Turn into a mold and stand away until cool. A PLAIN CHARLOTTE Add a quarter of a box of gelatin to one pint of stewed apples that have been sweetened, flavored and pressed through a sieve. As soon as the mixture begins to congeal, stir in carefully one pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Line the mold with lady-fingers; turn in the mixture, and stand away to cool. APPLE RICE PUDDING 1 cup of rice 4 good-sized tart apples Wash the rice through several cold waters, throw it into two quarts of boiling water, boil rapidly fifteen minutes, drain. Spread this in the centre of a good-sized square of cheese cloth. The rice should cover a space larger than a dinner plate, and the layer should be one-half inch thick. Heap in the centre of this the apples, pared, cored and quartered; gather up the ends and sides of the cloth so that the rice will thoroughly cover the apples; tie tightly. Put the pudding in a good-sized kettle of boiling water, boil for one hour. Serve hot with maple syrup, molasses or plain fruit sauce. If handled carefully, this will come out perfectly round without the grains of rice falling apart. APPLE SCALLOP 6 tart apples 4 slices of bread 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 tablespoonful of butter Pare and cut the apples into quarters. Cut the bread into bits and dry it in the oven. In the bottom of the baking-dish put a layer of bread, then a layer of apples, a dusting of sugar and another layer of bread, and so continue until the ingredients are used, having the last layer bread. Cut the butter into pieces, put them over the bread, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Serve warm with either hard sauce or cider sauce. APPLE GELATIN 6 tart apples 1 lemon 1/2 box of gelatin 1 pint of cider 1 cup of sugar Pare, core and quarter the apples, add the yellow rind of half a lemon, cover them with cider, bring to boiling point, and press through a sieve. Cover the gelatin with a half cup of cold water, and allow it to soak a half hour. Add the hot, strained apples and the lemon juice. Mix, turn into a mold, and stand aside to harden. This may be served plain or with cider sauce. Where cider cannot be procured, water may be used in its place. JELLIES FROM GELATIN Under this heading we place the jellies that are made from the ordinary commercial gelatin, flavored with different materials and made for immediate use. They are distinct from fruit jellies made from fruit syrup and sugar. We know so little about the food value of gelatin that one cannot say whether or not these jellies are nutritious or even beneficial beyond the sugar and flavoring they contain. They sometimes form a good vehicle for sugar and stimulants in sickness where such foods are allowed. They are easily made, and usually with such materials as are contantly at hand, hence, they are good emergency desserts. The ordinary commercial gelatin is put up in small boxes weighing two ounces. The difference in size is due to the different methods of packing. Granulated gelatin will occupy a smaller space than shredded gelatin. In speaking of a box of gelatin, we always mean two ounces. This amount will make a quart and a half of jelly, counting the water used for soaking. All gelatin is clarified before packing, which removes the necessity of a second clarifying, unless the materials used for flavoring cloud the mixture. Sometimes the pulp of lemon or orange will make the mixture decidedly cloudy; it must then be clarified to be sparkling and brilliant. Gelatin must always be soaked with a small amount of cold water before adding the flavoring and boiling water. It should be strained through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. To clarify, add to the mixture after the gelatin has been dissolved, flavored and sweetened, the beaten whites and shells of two eggs; beat the whole for a moment, and stand the saucepan over the fire; bring to boiling point, boil rapidly about two minutes, then slowly for five minutes longer. Pour gradually into a jelly bag or through two thicknesses of cheese cloth placed in a sieve. If the first that runs through is not clear, turn it back and strain the second time. Do not press, jar or stir. Allow it to drip very slowly. To mold jellies, dip the molds into cold water, shake them, do not dry or wipe, and turn in the jelly. Stand them aside where they will cool quickly. This will take four or five hours in an ordinary refrigerator. If needed in two hours, pack them in ice with a little salt. When ready to serve, loosen the edge of the gelatin frorr the mold with a knife, plunge it in hot water for just a moment, lift, turn it sidewise until you can see to the very bottom of the mold; then place the lower edge of the mold in the proper position on the serving dish, turn it over and lift it carefully from the jelly. TO LINE A MOLD WITH JELLY Charlotte Russe, Bavarian creams, in fact, very many cream desserts, are handsomer if served in a cover of gelatin. To do this, select two molds of the same shape, one smaller than the other. Put a layer of the liquid gelatin in the bottom of the larger mold, have it packed in ice that it may quickly harden. When hardand firm, dip the smaller mold in cold water and stand it on top of the gelatin in the middle of the large mold. Fill the inner mold with cracked ice, then the space between the two molds with liquid but cold gelatin, and allow the jelly to stand at least two hours until it is perfectly firm. Try to have the same thickness at the bottom and sides. When ready to fill, remove the cracked ice, and carefully dip the water from the inner mold. Wring from hot water a piece of cheese cloth, wipe the mold on the inside with the warm cloth, loosen it around the top, and slide it out. Fill the space with the pudding or cream, and allow the whole to stand in the cracked ice for about two hours. At serving time, plunge the mold into warm water, loosen it carefully, and turn it out. A very dainty mold is made by filling Pistachio Jelly with strawberry Bavarian cream, or Orange Jelly with strawberry Bavarian cream, or Amber Jelly with orange cream. Any suitable combination may be used, to match the color scheme of the table. These handsome jellies are always more beautiful when served in a flat dish, cut glass, of course, being preferable. Dark jellies, as amber, brandy or coffee jelly, are more sightly when served in a base of whipped cream. Lemon and orange jellies form nice desserts when served with soft custard sauce. COOKING SCHOOL JELLY Line a Charlotte mold with orange jelly. Whip a pint of cream. Wash two tablespoonfuls of rice, throw into a quart of boiling Water, and boil rapidly a half hour. Drain, dry and throw it in a napkin, so that each grain will be separate. Chop fine a quarter pound of dates. Cover a half box of gelatin with a half cup of cold water; soak for half an hour. Turn the whipped cream into a bowl, and sprinkle with a half cup of powdered sugar, Stand the bowl in a pan of cracked ice or ice water. Now add the rice, the chopped dates, and one teaspoonful of vanilla, and, if you use wine, four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Stand the gelatin over hot water; when melted strain it into the cream, begin to stir at once, and stir continuously until the cream begins to thicken. Remove the inside mold, fill the space quickly with this fruit pudding, and stand aside in a cold place for two hours. When ready to serve, turn it on a flat glass dish. Garnish the base with whipped cream, dotted here and there with candied cherries. GELATIN TUMBLERS These are made by lining tumblers according to the directions for lining molds, using a perfectly clear gelatin. After the tumblers are cold and solid, fill the centres with a mixture of chopped fruit or with Charlotte Russe, or cream pudding of any sort. Plunge the tumblers in hot water and take them out carefully. Stand them quickly in serving saucers. I have, with care, taken out these linings, put them on little paper mats in individual dishes, and filled them, by the use of a forcing tube, with orange cream, orange souffle or frozen desserts. LEMON JELLY 1 box of gelatin Juice of three good-sized lemons 1 pint of cold water 1 quart of boiling water 1 cup of sugar Cover the gelatin with cold water, soak for a half hour, add the sugar, the boiling water, the grated yellow rind of two lemons and the lemon juice. Let this stand for ten or fifteen minutes, strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth, into a mold. Stand aside to harden. ORANGE JELLY This will be made according to above recipe, substituting the juice of four oranges and one lemon for the lemon juice, using the grated yellow rind of one orange. FRUIT GELATIN This has received the very homely names of heavenly hash and angel's hash. Such names are inappropriate for any sort of dishes. 1 box of gelatin 1 cup of sugar 1/4 pound of dates 1/4 pound of figs 1/2 pint of cold water 1 quart of boiling water Juice of two lemons Stone the dates and chop them with the figs rather fine. Cover the gelatin with cold water, let it soak for half an hour, add the sugar and then the boiling water and lemon juice. Put the dates and figs into a bowl, and add gradually the liquid. When well mixed turn into molds and stand aside to harden. This may be served plain or with whipped cream. It may also be changed or modified by adding chopped nuts, as pecan nuts, English walnuts, or almonds in proportion of one cup of finely chopped nuts to the recipe given. TO MOLD FRUIT IN JELLY Fruits and flowers may be molded in the jelly. They do not in any way contribute to its flavor, but simply to its appearance. With red or pink roses, use rose or orange flavoring. In lemon jelly, yellow roses. Sprigs or leaves of mint, or pistachio nuts with green jelly. A bunch of grapes or bananas molded in lemon jelly makes an attractive dessert. Allow to each box of gelatin a half pint of cold water, one quart of boiling water, a half pint of sugar, the juice of three lemons. If you use wine, add at the last moment a half pint of sherry; allow for the measure. Cover the gelatin with cold water, then add the sugar and the boiling water. Add the lemon juice, strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth; pour into a large mold, that has been dipped in cold water, a layer of this and stand aside to harden. Allow the remaining jelly to cool, but not congeal; in fact, it must be just a little warm. In this way it melts the surface of the jelly in the mold, and the two are welded together. This prevents breakage in turning out. When the layer is hardarrange on it a large bunch of white or Tokay grapes. Do not forget that in turning the mold out, the bottom will be the top. Pour around the grapes the remaining quantity of gelatin, and stand away to harden. All fruits and flowers are molded in the same way. COFFEE JELLY 1/2 cup of sugar 1 pint of hot coffee 1/2 cup of cold water 1/2 box of gelatin Cover the gelatin with cold water, let it soak a half hour. Add the sugar to the hot coffee, stir until dissolved, pour it over the gelatin, strain it in a mold, and stand aside to harden. Serve plain or with cream. BRANDY JELLY 1 box of gelatin 1 gill of brandy 4 whole cloves Juice and rind of one lemon 1 bay leaf 1 cup of sugar 1/2 cup of cold water Cover the gelatin with cold water, let it soak for a half hour, then add the sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, the bay leaf and cloves; mix thoroughly, and add one quart of boiling water. Stand this over the stove where it will reach the boiling point, Clarify with the whites of two eggs. Beat them slightly, add them to the gelatin, stir for a moment, bring to boiling point, then push to the back of the stove to cook slowly five minutes. Strain through a jelly bag, or two thicknesses of cheese cloth. Add the brandy, and turn into molds that have been rinsed with cold water. Stand it in a very cold place for four or five hours. To remove the jelly from the mold, dip the mold lightly into warm water, loosen it around the side, and shake until you can see to the bottom of the mold inside, and turn it quickly on the serving dish. All Wine Jellies are made after this fashion. Sherry or Claret may be substituted for the brandy, using twice the quantity and a little less boiling water. Claret jelly is frequently served with game. ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY Make a small opening at the stem end of each orange and carefully take out the pulp. Use your finger or spoon handle, working between the skins. Make a lemon and brandy jelly; color the latter with a teaspoonful of caramel. Put a layer in the orange skins, which have been washed in cold water. When it hardens, put in a deep layer of the lemon jelly, and when this hardens, pour on top a layer of the brandy jelly. The jellies must be kept in a liquid condition, cool but not cold. Stand them in a pan of meal or flour to prevent tilting, and then in a cold place for two to four hours, or they may stand over night. At serving time cut them with a sharp knife into halves, and then into quarters. Dish them on a flat glass dish, and garnish with natural flowers. Lemon Jelly may also be cut into blocks, and heaped into orange baskets; these placed on mats of maidenhair or a dainty doily. PRUNE JELLY 1 pound of prunes 1/2 cup of sugar 1/2 pint of boiling water 1/2 box of gelatin 1/2 pint of cold water Wash the prunes, cover them with water and soak them over night. Next morning bring to boiling point. Cover the gelatin with the cold water, soak for a half hour, and add it with the sugar to the prunes. With a spoon carefully break open the prunes and take out the seeds or press through a colander. Turn the gelatin mixture into a mold, and stand aside for three or four hours to harden. Serve with plain or whipped cream. A GROUP OF FROZEN DESSERTS ICE CREAMS AND SHERBETS To make good ice cream it is first necessary to have a good quality of cream. Scald half the cream to prevent excessive swelling. Where fruits are used, they must be mashed and added after the cream is frozen. Oily flavorings, as vanilla bean, lemon or orange rind should be rubbed with the sugar and cooked with part of the cream. In freezing, adjust the handle before packing; use one-third as much coarse salt as ice; if too much salt is used, the freezing will be done rapidly, making the cream buttery and coarse. Or if the cream is turned rapidly after it begins to freeze, it will be buttery. To have perfect results, the cream must be ice cold before it goes into the freezing can, and the turning must be even and not too fast. PEACH ICE CREAM 12 mellow peaches 1 1/2 cups of granulated sugar 1 pint of cream Put the peaches into a colander or wire basket, plunge them for a moment into boiling water, and peel off the skins. Remove the stones, and press the peaches through a colander. Add the sugar to the cream, and stir over the fire in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved and the cream hot, but not near the boiling point; stand aside to cool. When cold, turn it into the can, adjust the handle, and pack. Turn now and then until the cream is ice cold; then turn slowly until it is frozen. Remove the lid, and add the peaches. Cover and adjust the handle, and turn slowly until the mixture is again frozen. Remove the dasher, replace the lid, fasten the hole in the top with the cork, and repack the can, using now half as much salt as you used in packing. Drain off the water, cover the top first with a piece or brown paper, then with a blanket or carpet. The cream will be ready to use in one and a half to two hours. To make Strawberry Ice Cream, substitute one quart of mashed strawberries, to which you add an extra half cup of sugar. To make Raspberry Ice Cream, use one quart of mashed raspberries. CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM 4 ounces of chocolate 7 ounces of sugar 1 dessertspoonful of vanilla 1 pint of cream 1 pint of milk Put the chocolate, sugar and milk in a double boiler, and stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. When cold, turn this into the freezer, pack, and churn slowly until the mixture is frozen. Remove the lid, take out the dasher, and add the cream, whipped to a stiff froth. Put back the lid, stop the hole with the cork, repack the can, cover, and stand aside for two hours. Coffee Ice Cream may be made in much the same manner, adding to the sugar a pint of strong coffee. After the mixture is frozen, stir in the whipped cream. VANILLA ICE CREAM 1 quart of cream 7 ounces of sugar 1/2 of a good vanilla bean Split the bean into halves, scrape out the seeds, and rub them into the sugar; add the sugar to half the cream, and also put in the woody portion of the bean; stir until the sugar is dissolved and the cream hot; strain through a coarse sieve, and stand aside to cool. When cold, add the remaining cream, and the mixture is ready to freeze. ALASKA BAKE Cover a brick mold of ice cream thickly with meringue, dust it with sugar. Stand the dish on a board, and brown it in a hot oven. SHERBETS A Sherbet is a water -ice stirred rapidly during the freezing. A Sorbet is a stirred water -ice with a one- egg meringue added after the mixture is frozen. One recipe will answer for all forms of sherbets and sorbets. ORANGE SHERBET 6 oranges 1 lemon 1 pound of sugar 1 quart of water Add the grated yellow rind of three oranges to the sugar; add the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil five minutes after the mixture begins to boil. Strain, and when cool, add a pint of orange juice and the juice of the lemon. Turn the mixture into the freezing can. For water -ice stir it now and then; let it freeze like wet snow. For sherbet, stir it rapidly during the freezing. This will make it light and white. For a sorbet, beat the white of one egg, add a tablespoonful of powdered sugar and beat again. Remove the dasher, add the meringue, mix well, cover, and stand aside for one and a half hours to ripen. For LEMON SHERBET , use the same quantity of water and sugar, the rind of two lemons and the juice of six. For MINT SHERBET, the same quantity of sugar and water, the juice of two lemons, the leaves from two dozen stalks of mint chopped fine and pounded to a pulp. For GINGER SHERBET, make a lemon sherbet , and after it is frozen, add a half pint of preserved ginger, chopped fine. For PINEAPPLE SHERBET, boil the sugar and water together, add the juice of a lemon and a pint of grated pineapple. For GRAPE SHERBET, add the juice of a lemon and a pint of grape juice. Boil the sugar and water together each time. Alaska Baked Ice Cream Page 601 An illustration of Alska baked Ice Cream. Café Parfait Page 604 An illustration of Cafe Parfait. RASPBERRY, STRAWBERRY and BLACKBERRY SHERBETS are made the same, adding the juice of two lemons and a pint of the fruit juice. The fruit must be mashed, pressed through a colander, and then strained. FROZEN FRUITS The difference between a frozen fruit and a sherbet is that in the first the fruit is simply mashed, sweetened and diluted with water, while for sherbet the water and sugar are boiled together and the fruit juice strained. FROZEN STRAWBERRIES Mash one quart of strawberries, add a cup and a half of sugar and the juice of one lemon, stand aside for one hour, then add one pint of water; turn into a freezer, and freeze the same as ordinary ice cream. Turn the dasher slowly. Frozen strawberries may be served in punch-glasses with a little whipped cream on top, or plain. FRAPPé A frappe is much the same as a water ice, partly frozen like wet snow; for instance, Cafe Frappe is partly frozen coffee. Lemon Frappe is partly frozen lemonade, etc. PARFAIT Parfait is frozen whipped cream. Sweeten and flavor the cream, whip to a stiff froth, put it in a mold, cover the mold, and pack in salt and ice. The cream should be frozen to the depth of one and a half inches. The centre will be cold, but soft. Bind the joint of the molds, that are to be packed in salt and ice, with a strip of muslin dipped in melted suet or paraffin. Mousse is the same as parfait. A SIMPLE PARFAIT A very nice simple way to make parfait, is to add, at serving time, whipped cream to ice cream. Serve in glasses. Use one pint of good cream to each quart of ice cream. When ready to serve, add the cream quite dry, mix quickly, and serve. Cafe Parfait made in this fashion is exceedingly good. SYLLABUB Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth and stand it on the ice. At serving time, fill this into glasses, or serve on a large glass dish; dust thickly with powdered sugar, and sprinkle with either chopped almonds, grated macaroons or chopped candied fruit. This is one of the few desserts that can be made easily and served quickly. SULTANA ROLL, WITH STRAWBERRY SAUCE 1 1/2 quarts of good cream 1 pound of granulated sugar 1/2 cup of sultanas I pint of strawberries 1/2 cup of sherry 1 teaspoonful of almond extract 1 ounce of pistachio nuts 10 drops of green coloring Put a pint of the cream over the fire in a double boiler; add to it one cup of the sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved; take from the fire and when cool, add another pint of uncooked cream. Add the bitter almond flavoring, the pistachio nuts chopped very, very fine, and about ten drops of green coloring. Turn this into a freezer and freeze as ordinary ice cream. Whip the remaining pint of cream to a stiff froth, sprinkle into it the sultanas that have been soaked in the sherry and drained; remove the dasher from the freezer, and work the pistachio cream around the sides and bottom of the can, making a deep well. Into this well, put the whipped cream. Fold down a little of the ice cream from the sides until the whipped cream is covered; repack the freezer, and stand aside for at least two hours. Serve in slices with strawberry sauce. Mash sufficient Syllabub Page 604 An illustration of a Syllabub. A Frozen Pudding with Compote of Oranges Page 605 An illustration of A Frozen Pudding with Compote of Orange. strawberries to make one pint of juice, and strain through a piece of cheese cloth. Boil this with the remaining cup of sugar to a rich, thick syrup. Add the juice of one or two lemons, and stand aside until very cold. When ready to serve, turn the pudding on a long dish, and serve the syrup in a boat. Claret Sauce is made in the same manner, using a pint of good claret. FROZEN PUDDING WITH A COMPOTE OF ORANGES Yolks of three eggs I pint of cream 1 pint of water 1/2 pound of sugar 1/4pound of chopped candied fruit Beat the yolks to a cream. Boil the sugar and water, and five minutes after they begin to boil, add a little of the syrup to the yolks; mix; then return it to the saucepan, and beat over the fire for about one minute. Take from the fire, stand the saucepan in a pan of cold water, and beat the mixture until cold, changing the water or adding ice. Add to the cold egg mixture the chopped fruit. Freeze it slowly until quite hard,then remove the dasher and stir in the cream that has been whipped to a stiff froth and drained. Cover the can, repack, and stand aside for at least two hours. When ready to serve, dip the can quickly in a pan of warm water, and turn the pudding on a deep round dish. Arrange quickly the compote, and send to the table. This is one of the most sightly and palatable of the simple frozen puddings. COMPOTE OF ORANGES 6 nice oranges 1 pound of sugar 1 lemon 1/2 cup of sherry, if you use wine Separate the oranges into carpels without tearing the thin membrane covering each carpel. Boil the sugar with the lemon juice and a half pint of water for five minutes, or until the syrup will spin a light thread. Take it from the fire, and add the oranges; mix them well with the hot syrup, cover and stand aside to cool. Add the sherry to them at serving time. They must be very cold or they will melt the pudding. TO MOLD ICES OR PUDDINGS Have ready a tub of cracked ice, lightly sprinkled with coarse salt. This should cover the bottom at least four inches deep. Place on it the molds to be used. The creams or puddings are frozen rather stiff. Pack them quickly in the molds, cover or close the molds, bind the seams with strips of muslin dipped in melted paraffin, and cover them completely with ice and salt in proportions of one-quarter salt to three-quarters cracked ice. To turn out lift each mold, wipe it off carefully, pour over cold water; open the mold, and shake gently. If the cream sticks, wipe the mold with a warm cloth. PUDDING SAUCES BRANDY SAUCE 1/4 pound of butter (half cup) Whites of two eggs 1 gill of brandy (half cup) 1/2 pound of sugar (one cup) 1 gill of boiling water (half cup) Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, and beat for five minutes, then fold in the white of one egg; beat again; then the other egg, and beat until thoroughly light. Stand aside in the refrigerator. When ready to serve, turn the mixture into a double boiler, add the brandy and boiling water, and stir constantly until it becomes light and creamy. Turn it at once into the boat, and send at once to the table. Caution.?If it boils, it will be curdled. BURNT SUGAR SAUCE 1 cup of granulated sugar 1/2 cup of boiling water Put the sugar into an iron saucepan; stir with a wooden spoon over a quick fire until the sugar melts and burns an amber color. Do not wait for it to smoke; then add hastily the water; stir until the sugar is dissolved; boil about two minutes, and turn out to cool. This is served as a sauce for rice croquettes, walnut croquettes, fritters and other sweet entremets. CARAMEL SAUCE 1 1/2 cups of brown sugar 4 ounces of chocolate 1/2 cup (one gill) of milk Put all the ingredients together into a saucepan; stir over hot water until the chocolate is melted and the whole mixture smooth; then boil until it forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water. This may be served as a pudding sauce, or as a Hot Sauce for ice cream. CHOCOLATE SAUCE 1 pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch or rice flour 2 ounces of chocolate 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1/2 cup of sugar Put the milk in a double boiler with the chocolate; stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Moisten the cornstarch or rice flour in a little cold milk; add it to the hot milk; cook until smooth and thick; add the sugar; take from the fire and add the vanilla. This is served hot as a sauce for cottage pudding or cabinet pudding, or may be served cold with blanc mange or cornstarch or gelatin molds. CREAMY SAUCE 1/2 cup of butter 1/2 cup of powdered sugar 1/4 cup of cream Juice and grated rind of one lemon Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, and beat again; when light and creamy, add the cream, which must be very thick, a little at a time. Now place the bowl in a basin of boiling water, and stir constantly until the sauce is light and smooth. Take from the fire, and add the grated rind and juice of the lemon. CAUTION.-?Do not boil, or it will curdle. SOFT CUSTARD SAUCE 1 pint of milk 1/2 cup of sugar 3 eggs 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs and sugar together until light and creamy. The yolks only need be used; however, it does not matter if one uses the whole egg. Add gradually to the beaten eggs the hot milk; then return the whole to the double boiler, and stir carefully until it just begins to thicken. Take from the fire, and add the vanilla. Pour from one vessel to another several times, and stand aside to cool. If the custard is cooked to just the right consistency, it will coat a knife blade when dipped into it. COLD CREAM SAUCE 1 pint of thick sour cream 1/4 of a nutmeg grated 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use wine Add the sugar, vanilla and wine to the cream, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; add the nutmeg, and stand on the ice until wanted. Serve with baked or boiled puddings. CIDER SAUCE 1/2 pint of cider 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 1/2 cup of sugar Mix, and boil until it just begins to thicken (about three minutes). Serve with brown betty or boiled suet pudding. EVERY DAY SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of flour 1/2 pint of boiling water 1/2 cup of sugar 1 egg Juice and grated rind of a lemon The flavoring of this sauce may be varied; either lemon, orange or vanilla may be used. Mix the flour and sugar thoroughly together, add hastily the boiling water, and stir over the fire until it reaches the boiling point; take from the fire, add the grated yellow rind and juice of the lemon, and pour slowly while hot into the egg, well beaten. FOAMY SAUCE 1/2 cup of butter Whites of two eggs 1 gill (half cup) of sherry 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 cup of powdered sugar 1 gill (half cup) of boiling water Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, and beat until white and light; drop in the white of one egg; beat; then add the remaining white, and beat until the whole is very light When ready to serve, add the sherry and boiling water. Stand in a basin of boiling water over the fire, and stir until frothy; not a moment longer. Take from the fire, and add the vanilla. CAUTION.?-This must be cooked at the very last moment, and served immediately, or it will lose its lightness. FAIRY SAUCE Fairy sauce or NUN'S BUTTER is made precisely the same as hard sauce, adding sherry instead of brandy. HARD SAUCE 1/2 cup of butter 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 cup of powdered sugar 1 tablespoonful of brandy, if you use it Wash the butter in cold water; when it is tough and rather elastic, put it into the bowl and beat it to a cream. When the butter is quite light, begin to add gradually the sugar, beating all the while; then add the vanilla and, gradually, the brandy. Heap this into a glass dish; stand on the ice to harden. When ready to serve, sprinkle lightly with grated nutmeg. MOLASSES SAUCE 1/2 pint of molasses 1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of cream Put all the ingredients into a saucepan; stir for a few moments over the fire, and boil until it is the consistency of cream. Serve with boiled or baked Indian pudding, or with brown betty. For GINGER SAUCE, add one tablespoonful of ground ginger. MONTROSE SAUCE 1 pint of thin cream 1/4 cup of powdered sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 tablespoonful of granulated gelatin Yolks of three eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy and four tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use it Cover the gelatin with two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and allow it to soak for fifteen minutes. Put the cream in a double boiler; when hot, add the yolks of the eggs and sugar that have been beaten together; stir for a moment until it thickens. Take from the fire; add the gelatin; stir until dissolved; strain, and add the vanilla, the sherry and brandy, and stand at once in a cool place. This is to be served ice cold with frozen puddings, and is the usual accompaniment to Montrose pudding. NOGG SAUCE 3/4 cup of cream 1 egg 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, if you use wine 1/2 cup of milk 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Separate the egg; beat the white until stiff, then add the yolk, and beat again. Add the sugar to the cream and milk mixed; stir until the sugar is dissolved, and then add it gradually to the egg. Mix thoroughly; pour backwards and forwards from one vessel to another; add the sherry and vanilla, and it is ready to serve. This may be served with baked or boiled puddings. PEACH SAUCE This is made precisely the same as hard sauce, adding three or four mellow mashed peaches, a little at a time; and it is usually served with peach dumplings or peach pudding. STRAWBERRY SAUCE Is made precisely the same as peach sauce, and is served with strawberry desserts. PEACH PURéE 6 mellow peaches, or a half can of peaches 1/2 cup of sugar Juice of a lemon 1 pint of water, or a pint of the juice in the can 1 level tablespoonful of arrow-root Moisten the arrowroot in half a cup of cold water; add it to the pint of boiling water; add the sugar; boil for a moment; add the lemon juice and then the peaches that have been pressed through a sieve. This is served with sweet entremets, as fritters of various kinds, Dutch peach pudding, or peach rice dumplings. Other fruits may be used in the same fashion. SPICE SAUCE 1 tablespoonful of butter 1/2 cup of sugar 1 saltspoonful of cinnamon 1 pint of boiling water 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of cream 1 saltspoonful of ginger 1 gill of Madeira Put the butter in a saucepan and add the flour; mix until smooth; add the water; stir constantly until it boils; add the cream and the sugar with the spices; stir for about five minutes over hot water; take from the fire, and add the Madeira and serve. Persons not using wine, may add vinegar to this in the place of Madeira, using half the quantity. OUR COOKING SCHOOL SAUCE Yolks of three eggs 2/3 cup of butter (six ounces) 1 saltspoonful of nutmeg 1/4 pound of granulated sugar 1/2 pint of sherry or Madeira 1 gill of boiling water Wash the butter in cold water until elastic; then beat it to a cream, adding gradually the sugar, then the yolks of the eggs, beat until light and frothy, and then add all the other ingredients. Stand the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and stir over the fire continuously for five minutes. Serve hot. CAUTION.?-Be careful to heat at the very last moment, as the sauce cannot stand without deterioration. CAKES Cakes contain both carbonaceous and nitrogenous foods; nitrogenous, in the form of eggs and milk; carbonaceous, in the flour, butter and sugar. All ingredients used are perfectly wholesome, if used separately, but when mixed together and baked, become complex and difficult of digestion. Cakes without butter are much more wholesome than those with butter, as the heating of the butter renders it more difficult of digestion. Hence, people with weak digestion can use sponge cake, angel food, sunshine cake with greater ease than pound, fruit or layer cakes. Cakes are digested in the mouth, stomach and small intestines. RULES FOR CAKE MAKING In making cake, accuracy in measuring the ingredients is absolutely necessary. Success follows those who give strict attention to detail. The baking is usually the most difficult part. Eggs must be perfectly fresh; butter sweet, and flour fine. Butter cakes, as pound cake, cup cake and fruit cake, must be baked in a very moderate oven (220° Fahr.), while layer cakes may be baked more quickly (from 280° to 300° Fahr.). Angels' food and sunshine cake should be placed in a very cool oven (212° Fahr.), the heat increased slowly for three-quarters of an hour, browning at the last. Do not beat the butter, sugar and eggs in a tin basin; it scours the basin, but discolors the materials. Use a wooden spoon and a white enameled bowl. Measure everything before beginning. Always separate the whites and the yolks of the eggs, unless the recipe specifically directs otherwise. Beat the butter to a cream before adding the sugar; then beat the sugar and butter until very light before adding the eggs. When a recipe calls for a teaspoonful of baking powder, it always means a rounding teaspoonful, unless otherwise stated. Each teaspoonful of baking powder may be replaced by a half teaspoonful of soda (level) and a level teaspoonful of cream of tartar sifted with the flour three or four times. Dried fruits, as currants and raisins, must be perfectly clean and well floured, and added to the cakes at the last moment. If fruits sink to the bottom of the cake, the cake is not sufficiently thick to hold them in place; add more flour to the batter. Cups used for measuring hold a half pint. Suet is the best material for greasing cake pans. Butter burns easily, sticks and holds the cake to the pan. Have the oven ready as soon as the cake is mixed. Cookies, thin small cakes as wafers, require a moderately quick oven (240° Fahr.); molasses cakes, a very moderate oven (220° Fahr.), as they scorch easily. If you are without a thermometer, and must guess at the heat of the oven (a most unsatisfactory way), and you find it too hot, quickly lift the lids of the stove and put a pan of cold water into the oven. Cakes baked too quickly at first will come up in the centre, crack and run over the sides of the pan. It is almost impossible to keep them in shape. Do not jar the stove, or open and close the oven door until the centre of the cake is "set." Do not cover a cake with paper; the paper burns and spoils the flavor of the cake. Regulate your oven. If necessary to look at a cake while baking, do it as quickly as possible, and open and close the door carefully. In recipes, where time is given for baking, remember it is gauged by a thermometer, and it is impossible for you to follow correctly without one. Be careful, then, that the cake is thoroughly done before you take it from the oven. If it is not, it will tick loudly when you put your ear to it, and will fall when taken out, having a heavy streak near the bottom. It is always well to line the pans with greased paper for fruit cake, pound cake, wedding cake and cakes rich in butter. When a cake is done, turn it gently on a cake sieve and allow it to cool. Do not handle it while hot. Do not melt or warm the butter until it is oily. It may be slightly softened in warm water. CHOCOLATE LOAF CAKE 2 ounces of chocolate 1 cup of sugar 1/2 cup of milk 1 teaspoonful of baking powder 1/4 cup of butter 4 eggs 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 2 cups of pastry flour Put the chocolate into a saucepan; stand it over hot water until it melts. Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar; beat again until very light, and add the chocolate; now add the yolks of the eggs, and beat again. Measure the milk, sift the baking powder with the flour, and beat the whites of the eggs. Add a little milk and a little flour until you have the whole well mixed. Beat vigorously, then add the vanilla; fold or stir in carefully the well beaten whites, and turn at once into a greased square cake pan. Bake in a moderate oven (260° Fahr.) for forty-five minutes. PLAIN LAYER CAKE 1 1/2 cups of sugar 1/2 cup of butter 3 cups of pastry flour 1 cup of water 2 eggs 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1 teaspoonful of flavoring Beat the butter to a cream; add gradually the sugar, then the yolks of the eggs; beat until very, very light. Measure the water, beat the whites of the eggs, and sift the baking powder and flour together. Add a little of the water and a little of the flour, and so continue until you have all used; add the flavoring, and stir in carefully the whites of the eggs. Bake in three layers. This may be put together with any of the given fillings. WHITE LAYER CAKE 1/2 cup of butter Whites of five eggs 1 cup of water 1 1/2 cups of sugar 2 1/2 cups of pastry flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder Beat the butter to a cream. If the butter is very hardand cold, cut it into four or five pieces; put it into a bowl of warm water for just a few minutes and drain off the water. Add the sugar, and beat again. Measure the water; sift the baking powder and flour; add these alternately, beating all the while. Add the flavoring and stir in the well beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in three layers. This batter may also be baked in a loaf cake. MAPLE LAYER CAKE 1/3 of a cake of chocolate 1 teaspoonful of baking soda 1/2 cup of warm water 2 cups of maple sugar 2 eggs 1/2 cup of butter 1 cup of thick sour milk 2 1/2 cups of flour Melt the chocolate over hot water. Dissolve the soda in the warm water. Beat the butter to a cream, add the eggs beaten without separating, and beat in gradually the sugar. Beat for at least ten minutes. Add the soda and water to the sour milk; add this with the melted chocolate to the egg mixture; now stir in the flour. Beat all well together, and bake in three layers. When cold, put together with maple or caramel filling. ALMOND LOAF 1 pound of almonds 1 1/2 cups of powdered sugar 6 eggs Blanch, dry and chop fine one pound of Jordan almonds. Beat six eggs and one and one-half cups of powdered sugar together for thirty minutes, then stir in the almonds. Turn the mixture into a fruit cake pan that has been lined with greased paper, and bake in a quick oven (300° Fahr.) for thirty minutes. This cake must be handled with great care or it will fall apart when turned out. BRIDE'S CAKE 1 pound of butter 1 pound of pastry flour Whites of sixteen eggs 1 teaspoonful of orange extract 1/4 of a grated nutmeg 1 pound of powdered sugar 1 teaspoonful of soda 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar 1 teaspoonful of bitter almond 1/2 pint of milk Cut the butter into five or six pieces, drop it into a bowl of warm water, and let it rest for a moment; then pour off the water, and beat the butter until white and light; add gradually the sugar and beat for fully ten minutes. Measure the milk. Sift the soda, cream of tartar and flour together four times; add a little milk gradually to the butter mixture, then a little flour, then milk, and so continue, beating until very, very light. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, fold them in thoroughly, but lightly, adding the flavoring at the same time. Line a fruit -cake pan with greased paper; turn in the mixture, and bake in a very moderate oven (220° Fahr.) for two hours. This will fill a ten or twelve pound pan. This is also called lady cake. GROOM'S CAKE 1 pound of butter 1 pound of pastry flour 2 pounds of sultana raisins 2 pounds of currants 1/4 pound of lemon peel Grated rind and juice of two lemons 1/2 teaspoonful of cloves 1 grated nutmeg 10 eggs 1 pound of powdered sugar 2 pounds of stoned raisins 1 pound of orange peel 1/2 pound of citron 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 1 teaspoonful of allspice 1/2 pint of grape juice Beat the butter to a cream, softening it as in preceding recipe; add the sugar; beat until very light; then add the eggs, yolks and whites beaten together; add the flour. When this is perfectly smooth, add all the spices, the lemon rind and the grape juice. Mix the fruit and dust it with a half cup of flour. Add the fruit, mix thoroughly, and bake in a fruit -cake pan that has been lined with greased paper. This will require a twelve-pound basin. If convenient, steam for three hours, and bake in* a moderate oven (about 240° Fahr.) for one hour; otherwise, it must be put into an oven (212° Fahr.), and baked for three hours, increasing the heat to 220° Fahr. during the last hour. This cake will keep for months. DRIED FRUIT CAKE 1 pound of dried peaches 1/2 pound of pinon nuts 5 eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of cloves 1 teaspoonful of ginger 1 pound of prunes 1/2 pound (one cup) of nut butter Juice and grated rind of two oranges 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon 3/4 of a pound of pastry flour Wash the fruit, cover it with water, and allow it to soak over night; drain perfectly dry. Remove the stones from the prunes; cut the peaches into strips; wash and dry the nuts. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar, the eggs beaten without separating, then all the spices, the orange rind and juice, and lastly the flour. Beat until perfectly smooth. Dust the fruit with a half cup of flour, and stir it in at the last moment; pour into a round cake pan that has been lined with greased paper. Bake in a moderate oven, starting at about 212° Fahr., increasing the heat to 260° Fahr. for three hours. MOLASSES SPONGE CAKE 1/2 pint of molasses 1/2 cup of boiling water 1 level teaspoonful of soda 1/4 cup of butter 3 cups of pastry flour 1 level tablespoonful of ground ginger Heat the molasses, and add the ginger. Dissolve the soda in two tablespoonfuls of water, add it to the hot molasses, and then add the boiling water and butter. When the butter is dissolved, stir in quickly the flour. Turn it into a shallow baking pan that has been lined with paper, and bake in a moderate oven (240° Fahr.) for thirty minutes. DEVIL'S FOOD 1/2 cup of milk 4 ounces of chocolate 1/2 cup of butter 3 cups of pastry flour 1 1/2 cups of sugar 4 eggs 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder Put in a double boiler four ounces of chocolate and a half pint of milk; cook until smooth and thick, and stand aside to cool. Beat a half cup of butter to a cream; add gradually one and a half cups of sugar and the yolks of four eggs; beat until light and smooth. Then add the cool chocolate mixture and three cups of pastry flour, with which you have sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat thoroughly for at least five minutes; then stir in the well beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in three or four layers. Put the layers together with soft icing, to which you have added a cup of chopped nuts. The success of this cake depends upon the flour used. COCOA CAKE 5 eggs 1/2 cup of cocoa 2/3 cup of finely chopped almonds 1 cup of fine bread or cracker crumbs 1 lemon 1 cup of sugar Beat the eggs without separating, the juice and rind of the lemon and the sugar together for thirty minutes. Sprinkle in carefully the cocoa, and then the almonds that have been blanched, dried and chopped fine. Beat again for ten minutes, and then dust in carefully the bread crumbs. Line a shallow baking pan with greased paper, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven (280° Fahr.) for thirty minutes. Take from the oven, allowing the cake to remain in the pan until cool. Cut it directly into halves down the middle, and then into strips the width and length of your finger. This cake, not containing butter and but little sugar, is much more wholesome than the average cake. COFFEE CAKE 1 pound of pastry flour 1 tablespoonful of sugar 5 eggs (half pound) 4 tablespoonfuls (four ounces) of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of milk 1 compressed yeast cake Dissolve the yeast cake in a quarter of a cup of warm water, and then stir in sufficient flour to make a dough. Knead this into a small biscuit, and with a sharp knife make a cross almost through, and drop it, cut side up, in a good-sized pitcher, nearly filled with warm water. The biscuit will drop directly to the bottom, but in a few minutes the warmth and moisture of the water will cause the yeast plants to grow, filling the dough with carbon dioxid, which will make it sufficiently light to float. While this is standing, sift the flour into a good-sized bowl, make a hole or well in the centre, into which put the butter, sugar, milk, and eggs well beaten. Lift, the biscuit with a skimmer and drop it in the mass. Now with the two fingers and thumb work the ingredients to a paste, taking in gradually the flour. If the flour is of good quality, you will have a soft delicate dough, which can be manipulated lightly in the bowl. If it is sufficiently dry to knead on the board, the cake will be coarse, and tasteless, and lack the delicacy necessary to this delightful cake. Cover the dough and stand in a warm place (75° Fahr.) over night or from ten o'clock in the evening until seven o'clock in the morning. Dust the baking board very lightly with pastry flour; turn out the dough, cut from the mass about two tablespoonfuls, and roll it out under your hand, the thickness of your little finger, and at least one and a half yards in length; make it a little thinner in the centre, fold the two ends together and roll the whole under your hand, thoroughly twisting it rope-like. Bring the two ends of this roll together, and place the twists in a greased pan, where they cannot touch each other in the baking. Cover and stand in a warm place until very light, about Coffee Cake Page 620 An illustration of a Coffee Cake. Rolled Wafers Page 622 An illustration of Rolled Wafers. Macaroons Page 624 An illustration of Macaroons. three-quarters of an hour. Brush with the white of an egg and water beaten together, and bake in a quick oven (400° Fahr.) for fifteen minutes. Take from the oven, and when they are slightly cold pour over each a little water icing, or melted sugar. Melted Sugar is made by adding a tablespoonful of hot water to a half pound of powdered sugar. Stand this over the fire until it is just moist and sufficiently soft to pour. COFFEE GEMS 4 eggs 1 cup of granulated sugar 2 teaspoonfuls of coffee extract 1 cup of pastry flour Beat the eggs in a saucepan; add the coffee extract and then the sugar; beat these rapidly over boiling water until the mixture is slightly warm. Take from the fire, and whip continuously for fifteen minutes; then add slowly the sifted pastry flour. Have ready tiny gem pans brushed with oil or suet and dusted with granulated sugar; half fill them with the cake mixture. Bake in a quick oven (about 300° Fahr.) for fifteen minutes, and they are ready to use. These cakes are usually served warm. NUN'S GEMS 1 cup (half pound) of butter Grated yellow rind of one lemon 2 cups of pastry flour 1 teaspoonful of baking powder 1 saltspoonful of ground cinnamon 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 cup of granulated sugar 5 eggs 1 cup of grated or desiccated cocoanut Beat the butter to a cream; add gradually the sugar, the yolks of the eggs and all the flavoring. When very light, add the flour and baking powder that have been sifted together. Fold in carefully the cocoanut and the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Drop into greased gem pans or ball molds; bake a half hour in an oven at the temperature of 240° Fahr. When done, dust with powdered sugar. To make GINGER WAFERS, add a tablespoonful of ground ginger. For VANILLA WAFERS, add a teaspoonful of vanilla. For LEMON WAFERS, add the grated rind of a lemon. For ORANGE WAFERS, add the grated rind of an orange. For ROSE WAFERS, add a drop of cochineal and a teaspoonful of rose water, and bake the wafers in a very moderate oven, so as not to destroy the coloring. For almond WAFERS, use almond paste instead of the butter, and bake in a very moderate oven, that the wafers may be almost white. For PISTACHIO WAFERS, use half a pound of almond paste instead of the butter; add a few drops of vegetable green, and bake carefully. For CHOCOLATE WAFERS, use four ounces of chocolate and half the quantity of butter. Beat the butter, add to it the sugar and melted chocolate, and finish according to the first recipe. Granulated sugar must be used for all wafers. MARSHMALLOW DROPS 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 1/2 cups of sugar 3 eggs 1 cup of lukewarm water 2 1/2 cups of pastry flour 2 rounding tablespoonfuls of baking powder Separate the eggs, beat the butter to a cream; add the yolks, then gradually the sugar. When very light, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and sift the baking powder with the flour. Measure the water. Add to the mixture half the water, then half the flour; beat vigorously; add the remaining half of the water and the remaining half of the flour, and beat again. Fold in carefully the well beaten whites, and bake in greased gem pans in a moderately quick oven, for twenty minutes. While these are baking, put a half pound of marshmallows and two tablespoonfuls of water into a double boiler, stir until the marshmallows are thoroughly dissolved. Then add a tablespoonful of granulated gelatin that has been soaked in four tablespoonfuls of water for a half hour. Take from the fire and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. When the cakes are cold, dip the rounding portion in the melted marshmallows, turn them upside down and stand them away to cool. This icing may be used for other cakes. SPONGE CUPS Whites of ten eggs Yolks of six eggs 1 cup of boiling water 3 cups of pastry flour 2 cups of granulated sugar 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder Juice and rind of one lemon Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Beat the yolks to a cream, and add them to the whites; add the sugar, beat five minutes, and add the lemon. Sift the flour and baking powder, and put them in the middle of the batter; pour around the sides of the bowl the boiling water; do not pour it over the flour. Mix and beat quickly, and turn at once into greased small gem pans or sponge-cake cups. Bake in a moderately quick oven (260° Fahr.) twenty minutes. When cool, dip in caramel or marshmallow icing. MACAROONS Whites of three eggs 1 pound of almond paste 1/2 pound of powdered sugar Mix the whites of the eggs gradually with the almond paste. When smooth, work in with a spoon or spatula the powdered sugar. Beat vigorously for ten minutes. Drop by teaspoonfuls on slightly oiled paper; bake in a moderate oven until a light brown, about fifteen minutes. Take from the oven, lift the paper from the pan, and rest it for a moment on a damp towel; then with a knife remove the macaroons. COCOANUT MACAROONS Beat, the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth; fold in carefully a half pound of powdered sugar sifted, and one and a half cups of grated or shredded cocoanut; stir very lightly. Drop by teaspoonfuls on oiled paper, and bake in a slow oven twenty minutes When done, take out of the oven, and, when cold, moisten the under side of the paper, and the macaroons may be easily-loosened. NUT KISSES Whites of six eggs 12 ounces of powdered sugar 1/2 cup of pecan meats 24 Jordan almonds 12 English walnut meats Chop rather fine the blanched, dried almonds, pecan nuts and English walnuts, which should make in all half a pint of chopped nuts. Beat the whites to a very stiff froth, stir in, mixing carefully, the powdered sugar, and then sprinkle in the nuts; mix lightly and quickly; drop by teaspoonfuls on flour ed paper. Bake in the same way as plain macaroons. To make Chocolate Kisses, substitute a quarter of a pound of grated chocolate for the half pint of chopped nuts. SPRINGERLE Stir one pound of pulverized sugar with four eggs for one hour; add one pound of flour, a pinch of powdered ammonium carbonate, and anise seed. Roll to one-quarter inch thickness, press with forms, cut and place on napkins powdered with flour, over night. Bake in a cool oven. If kept in a stone crock, the springerle will remain soft.?-Kindness of DR. F. A. GENTH. LEBKUCHEN Boil four pounds of honey with an equal amount of sugar, then add one pound of split almonds, one pound of citron cut small, the grated rinds of four lemons, half an ounce of nutmeg, half an ounce of cloves, three ounces of cinnamon. The mass should be stirred whilst the above substances are added. Then add one tumbler of brandy, and stir into the mixture six pounds of flour. Roll out to a quarter inch thickness, keeping the dough warm; cut into small cakes, bake at once in a hot oven and ice with lemon icing .?-DR. F. A. GENTH. FILLINGS CARAMEL FILLING 3 cups of brown sugar 1/2 cup of molasses 1/3 cup of cold water 1/3 cup of new milk 1/4 pound of butter 1/4 pound of chocolate 3/4 pound of nut meats, pecans, almonds, walnuts or hickory nuts Boil water, milk and molasses five minutes, add sugar and butter, boil a moment, add chocolate in one piece; do not stir. When smooth, try in cold water. If the mixture forms a pretty hardball, take it from the fire, and stir in the nuts chopped. When partly cold, use. SOFT FILLING Boil one cupful of sugar and half a cupful of water until they spin a heavy thread. Pour while hot into the well-beaten whites of two eggs, beating continuously. Beat until the mixture is nearly cold. Flavor and it is ready to use. This may be made into NUT FILLING by adding at last a half pound of mixed chopped nuts. Into a FRUIT FILLING by adding a half pound of chopped candied fruits. It is wise to remember that with a rich filling it is best to use a plain cake. FRENCH FILLING This is used as a filling to layer sponge cake-?two layers of cake and one of filling, the top dusted with powdered sugar. Beat the yolks of two eggs until creamy; add gradually a cup and a half of XXXX sugar. Beat well, add two tablespoonfuls of black coffee and a half cupful of almond or other nut paste or butter. MAPLE FILLING Put one and a half cupfuls of maple sugar; a half cupful of sweet milk and a teaspoonful of butter into a saucepan, and boil Small Cakes, Mixed Pages 621-625 An illustration of Different Small Cakes. Sponge Cake, French Filling Page 626 An illustration of a Sponge Cake with French Filling. until, when dropped from a spoon, it will spin a heavy thread. Take from the fire and beat until quite cold. When the cakes are cold, both are ready for use. MARSHMALLOW FILLING Put a half pound of marshmallows and a quarter cupful of water in a double boiler over the fire. Stir until melted. Take from the fire and pour while hot into the well-beaten whites of two eggs. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla. ICINGS ROYAL ICING Put the whites of two eggs in a very clean bowl, add a table-spoonful of water, a half saltspoonful of cream of tartar, beat just a moment, and add gradually, beating all the while, two cupfuls of XXXX sugar. Beat hardfor ten minutes, and use at once. CREAM ICING Add two cupfuls of XXXX sugar to a half cupful of good cream. This must be sufficiently soft to pour. Add vanilla or caramel. WATER ICING Put two cupfuls of XXXX sugar into a bowl, add the grated yellow rind of an orange, two tablespoonfuls of orange juice and two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Stir until sufficiently soft to spread nicely. Use at once. Lemon, vanilla or almond flavoring may be used. CHOCOLATE ICING Put four ounces of chocolate and half a cup of milk and one cup of brown sugar over the fire. Boil and stir until the mixture will harden when dropped in cold water. Take from the fire and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Use at once. CANDIES RULES TO BE REMEMBERED For molasses candy use New Orleans or Porto Rico molasses. Glucose syrups will not answer the same purpose. Recipes calling for chocolate mean unsweetened chocolate, unless otherwise stated. MINT TABLETS 1 pound of sugar 2/3 cup of water 1/2 saltspoonful of cream of tartar Put all the ingredients in a saucepan over the fire, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; wipe down the pan, boil continuously until the mixture will form a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Take from the fire, add three drops of oil of peppermint, and stir rapidly until the mixture begins to have a grayish appearance; then pour at once and quickly into tiny greased patty pans. These mint tablets have a sugary appearance, and are as wholesome as candy can be. These patty pans can be purchased at any house-furnishing store. CHOCOLATE TABLETS 4 ounces of chocolate 2 cups (one pint) of sugar 1 tablespoonful of butter (one ounces) 1 1/2 cups of milk Grate the chocolate, put it with all the other ingredients into a saucepan, and stir over the fire until the mixture boils; then boil carefully until it forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Take from the fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, stir for a moment until the mixture begins to grain, pour quickly into greased patty pans, or into a shallow greased pan. When the mixture is cold, cut into blocks. PANOCHA 4 cups of brown sugar 2 ounces of butter 1/2 pint of pecan meats 1 cup of milk Put the sugar, milk and butter over the fire, stir until the sugar is dissolved; boil until the mixture forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water; add the pecan meats and begin to stir. When the mixture begins to thicken turn quickly into a greased shallow pan, and spread it out in thin sheets. When cold, cut into squares. MAPLE PANOCHA Make precisely the same as above recipe, using maple or brown sugar. FUDGE 4 ounces of chocolate 2 cups of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1/2 cup of milk 1 rounding tablespoonful of butter Put the sugar, butter, chocolate and milk in a saucepan over the fire until thoroughly melted. Boil, stirring constantly, until the mixture hardens when dropped into cold water; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and turn quickly out to cool. When cold, cut into squares. MAPLE SUGAR FUDGE 1 pint of maple sugar 1/2 pint of milk 1/2 pint of walnut meats 2 ounces of chocolate 1 tablespoonful of butter Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, stir and cook for a half hour; then test by dropping it into hot water; if it hardens take it from the fire. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla and the walnut meats chopped fine; stir until the mixture begins to thicken, pour quickly into a shallow pan, and, when cold, cut into squares. CREAM CARAMELS 1/4 pound of chocolate 1/2 pint of cream 1 pint of granulated sugar Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, stir until boiling, and then constantly until the mixture forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Begin to test after the first ten minutes. Pour into a greased pan, and when cold, cut into inch squares. PEANUT KISSES Shell and remove the brown skins from a half pint of peanuts, and chop or roll them rather fine. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, but not dry; add carefully two cups of granulated sugar; stir in the nut mixture, and drop by teaspoonfuls on oiled paper; bake in a moderate oven until a golden brown. FRENCH NOUGAT Shell and blanch a quarter pound of almonds; put them into the oven until thoroughly dry, not brown. Brush a shallow baking pan lightly with oil; sprinkle the bottom with almonds, and over this an equal quantity of pecan meats, and a few English walnuts; the nuts should be at least half an inch thick. Put a pound of granulated sugar in a saucepan, and stir constantly over a strong fire until it melts. Pour this slowly all over the nuts. If there is not sufficient to cover them, melt a second lot, but pour it slowly and evenly so that the nuts will be thoroughly held together. When this is slightly cool, cut with a sharp knife into bars. FRUIT NOUGAT is made exactly the same way, using fruit with the nuts. EVERTON TAFFY Put one cup of granulated sugar into a saucepan, and stir until the sugar is melted, not brown; add a rounding tablespoonful of butter; stir constantly until the sugar slightly burns. Turn into a greased pan to cool. BUTTER SCOTCH 1/2 cup of molasses 1/4 cup of sugar 4 tablespoonfuls of water 1/4 pound of butter Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, stir until they are thoroughly melted; boil until brittle when dropped into hot water. Pour into a buttered dish, and, when cool, break. POPCORN BALLS Pop the corn, sift, and use only the perfect grains. Put the popcorn into a good-sized bowl or pan. To each four quarts allow two cups of sugar, a half cup of water and a rounding tablespoonful of butter. Boil the sugar, water and butter over the fire until the syrup forms a hardball when dropped into cold water. Pour this over the popcorn slowly, stirring all the while. Quickly press into balls or squares, and put aside to cool. PATIENCE 3 cups of sugar 2 cups of milk 1 cup of pecan meats 1 tablespoonful of butter Put one cup of the sugar in a saucepan, and stir until it melts and browns; then add one cup of milk and stir until the caramel is dissolved; add the remaining quantity of sugar, the milk and butter; stir and boil until it forms a hardball when dropped into cold water. Add the nuts, take from the fire, and stir until it begins to grain; pour into a square greased pan, and, when cool, cut into blocks. CANDIED MINT LEAVES 1 pound of sugar 1/2 cup of water 1/2 saltspoonful of cream of tartar Boil the ingredients together without stirring until they form a very brittle sheet when dropped into ice water; take from the fire, stir carefully against the side of the pan until the mixture is cool and has a slightly granulated appearance. Dip the mint leaves quickly, one at a time, and put them on greased or oiled paper until crisp. This dipping must be done very carefully, and the mixture kept hot during the time. STUFFED DATES Make a cut down the thin side of the date, and carefully remove the stone without breaking the flesh; put into the cavity either a quarter of an English walnut meat, a half pecan meat, or a half of a blanched and dried almond. Fold the nut over, giving it the appearance of a whole date. These may be served plain or rolled in granulated sugar. Peanuts may be used instead of the other nuts, using one whole peanut, two meats; or they may be stuffed with nut cheese. STUFFED FIGS 1 pound of pulled figs 1/2 pound of mixed nuts The nut mixture may consist of almonds, pecans, English walnuts and pinon nuts. Chip them very fine. Beat the white of one egg until partly light; then add six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until stiff. Stir the nuts into this paste, add a half of the grated yellow rind of an orange or a little vanilla; mix thoroughly. Split the figs on one side carefully, scoop out a portion of the inside flesh; mix it with the nuts; then stuff the figs until they are quite distended, putting the skin together so that the split may not be seen. Arrange on a paper mat in a pretty glass dish, and serve as dessert. PULLED MOLASSES CANDY 1/2 pint of molasses 1 pound of brown sugar 1/2 pint of water 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1/4 pound of butter 1 saltspoonful of bi- carbonate of soda 1/2 teaspoonful of cream of tartar Put the molasses, sugar, water and vinegar in a saucepan, and stir until the ingredients reach the boiling point. Add the cream of tartar, and boil until it is very brittle when dropped into cold water. Watch carefully and stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Now add butter and soda. Pour on a greased marble slab or into a pan, and when sufficiently cool to handle, pull until light in color. Cut in desired shapes. This may be rolled into a long, thin strip, the centre of the strip filled with cream candy or nut cheese, two strips rolled together, and cut with a sharp knife or scissors into Butter Cups. ICE CREAM TAFFY 1 pound of sugar 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 1/2 cup of water Put the ingredients over the fire until they are dissolved; wipe down the sides of the pan and boil to the "crack." Turn the mixture into an oiled pan or on a marble slab, and when cool enough to handle, pull until white and glossy. Add vanilla or wintergreen now and then during the pulling. To make CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM TAFFY, add two ounces of chocolate just as you begin to pull; that is, put the chocolate right in the centre of the candy, fold over the edges and then pull. CHOCOLATE CHIPS 1 pound of sugar 1 cup of water 1 saltspoonful of cream of tartar Put the ingredients over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, wipe down the pan, and boil without stirring until the syrup is brittle when dropped into cold water. This must have boiled until it reaches the "crack." Take from the fire, add a tea-spoonful of vanilla, and turn out in a pan or on a marble slab; when cool fold in the edges, and, with a china or wooden roller, roll quickly until the whole is as flat as a wafer. Cut into strips two inches long and one inch wide. Dip into melted chocolate or chocolate fondant. BEVERAGES Under this heading, we should place water only, as it alone fulfills the place of a true beverage. The body is seventy-five per cent, water, and this amount must be rigidly kept up to produce a healthy condition. In the very young and aged, the amount is slightly increased. It is quite common to hear elderly persons remark that they are cold; their blood is thin. This is true in a way, as there is usually more water in proportion even when the body is lighter in weight. Tea and coffee are not beverages when saturated with sugar and cream or milk. They must be taken as food and ranked as such. Chocolate is called a beverage, probably because it is served in a cup and taken with food. This, however, is a great mistake. A cup of well-made chocolate or cocoa contains sufficient food for the ordinary breakfast. Children who are compelled to eat a large plate of oatmeal and with it a cup of chocolate, find it difficult to do their morning's school work without headache. Such children break down easily, and become nervous. Tea, coffee and chocolate each contain an alkaloid, which is more or less stimulating, and chocolate is quite as bad as tea and coffee. The caffein of coffee, the thein of tea and the theobromin of chocolate are all stimulants. Coming now to our markets, we have Paraguay tea, Yerba Maté, the leaves and twigs of the Paraguay Ilex, a tree belonging to the holly family. Maté contains an alkaloid identical with thein. Of the two, however, Maté seems to be the more stimulating. With the exception of chocolate or cocoa, both containing starch, all beverages should be infused very lightly. Coffee, so rigidly condemned by the average physician, is far less objectionable when carefully made. The serious and unpleasant results come from the use of heavy decoctions, made by boiling. We have in the market some thirty or forty admirably 1 Chinese Tea Basket 2 Tea Kettle 3 French Coffee Pot 4 Samovar Pages 636-637 An illustration of Different Containers used for Drinking beverages. constructed coffee pots for the making of infusions. In selecting a pot choose one with a top or second story, in which the grounds are held, above the water. All pots are to be condemned where the grounds are dropped or held in the infusion. Cloth or haircloth bags may be used successfully, provided the bags are always washed in cold water and quickly dried. Such an arrangement is to be condemned, unless the cook or housewife is particular about the care. Coffee, of all materials, must be made carefully. Like butter and milk, it seems to take the flavor of other materials with which it comes in contact. The bag will taste of soap, and if it is once scalded in soap suds, it is practically useless again for coffee making. If possible, clean new cheese cloth should be scalded, ironed and put aside, and a new bag made each week. The reversible French pots and those with glass tops are always to be recommended. They are serviceable, easily managed, and having alcohol lamp attachments, are admissible on the table, where the coffee can be carefully made from fresh water and in proper proportions. PERFECT COFFEE A perfect infusion is made from coffee browned to a golden yellow and finely ground (not pulverized). Allow three rounding tablespoonfuls to each pint of water. For large quantities, eight ounces to one gallon of water. Scald the pot, put the coffee in the upper part or percolator, pour over water that has just reached boiling point; draw the water from the under part of the pot, and pour it again over the coffee. Do this three times. Light the alcohol lamp underneath, and as soon as the coffee reaches the boiling point, use at once. If coffee is percolated in the kitchen, the pot should be placed in a pan of hot water, the grounds removed, or the bag taken from the top before it is sent to the dining-room. Where large quantities of coffee are to be made and kept heated for a space of one or two hours, the bag must be removed after the last percolation, and the coffee kept at boiling point. Coffee cannot be chilled and then re-heated. The flavor and the consistency of the coffee are spoiled. Coffee can be kept hot for hours, provided the grounds are removed. BOILED COFFEE This really should not be boiled. Allow the same amount of coffee as in the preceding recipe. To each three tablespoonfuls allow a third of the white of an egg beaten with one cup of cold water. Mix this with the coffee, and let it stand for ten or fifteen minutes. Then pour over a half pint of boiling water. Bring to boiling point, add a little cold water; when it reaches boiling point again, add two or three more tablespoonfuls of cold water, let it come the third time to the boiling point and take it from the fire. In about two minutes, strain the coffee in a hot china pot, and send at once to the table. BREAKFAST COFFEE The above recipes will answer for the coffee. Breakfast coffee is better served with hot milk. Coffee with cream is palatable, but is apt to produce sour stomach. Take your breakfast coffee infused, and dilute it with scalding milk, or clear with sugar. Do not add both sugar and milk or cream, that is, if you wish to drink coffee any length of time. Put the milk in a double boiler. Watch it carefully until the water surrounding it comes to a boil; lift the milk quickly and pour it into a heated pitcher, cover and send it to the table. In pouring, fill the cup half full of hot milk, and pour in the coffee. CAUTION.?-The milk must not boil. Cream must not be heated. If cream is served, it must be used cold. TEA Scald the pot. Remove the water, and put in a level teaspoonful of good tea to each pint of water. Take the water at its first boil. Cover the pot with a cozy, and stand it away from the fire for five minutes. Stir the tea and pour at once. The ordinary English tea cozy, a sort of padded cap, is clumsy, and takes considerable space on the table. Then, too, it quickly becomes soiled and is objectionable. The Chinese tea basket is always to be recommended. Caution.-? Tea must not be made over the fire; nor must it be made in a metal pot. The tannic acid acts on the metal, destroys the flavor of the tea, and makes the infusion unwholesome. MATé (Yerba Maté) Each package of Maté contains at the top a small muslin bag. This bag will last in good condition for the given quantity of Maté. Allow a level teaspoonful to one pint of carefully boiled water. Put the Maté in the bag, pour through the water, remove the bag at once, and the infusion is ready to serve. CHOCOLATE Chocolate and cocoa contain starch. Both must be boiled. Allow one ounce of chocolate to each pint of liquid. To make one quart, put two ounces of chocolate in a double boiler, and add one pint of hot water. Stir until the chocolate is melted and hot. Then add one pint of milk. Beat and stir rapidly until the water in the under boiler again reaches the boiling point. Add three rounding tablespoonfuls of sugar, and take from the fire. Beat rapidly for just a moment. Turn into a hot chocolate pot, and serve with whipped cream. COCOA To make one quart of cocoa put into a saucepan four rounding teaspoonfuls of cocoa. Add a half pint of boiling water, stirring all the while, until the mixture reaches boiling point. Boil just a moment. Add one and a half pints of milk and three rounding tablespoonfuls of sugar, and stir constantly until the milk is very hot. Be very careful not to boil. Take from the fire, turn into a heated chocolate pot and serve with whipped cream. Both chocolate and cocoa may be flavored with vanilla if desired. FRUIT PUNCHES EAST INDIA PUNCH 1 ounce of Ceylon or India tea 2 pounds of sugar 6 lemons 2 oranges 1 pint of grated pineapple 1 teaspoonful of bitter almond extract 1 teaspoonful of rose water 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 1 pint of fresh or canned strawberries 3 ripe bananas 1 pint of grape juice 3 quarts of Apollinaris Put the tea into a pitcher, cover it with a quart of boiling water, cover the pitcher for twenty minutes; then strain. Grate the yellow rind from half the lemons and the oranges; add the gratings to the sugar; put the sugar in a saucepan, add the tea infusion, stir until the sugar is dissolved, bring to boiling point and boil five minutes. Strain into a stone or glass jar, and stand aside over night. Next morning add the juice of the lemons and oranges and all the other ingredients, with the exception of the Apollinaris. When ready to serve, turn this into a punch bowl over a good-sized block of ice, add the Apollinaris water, and serve. This may be varied by adding a bottle of ginger ale in the place of grape juice. YERMA 2 rounding teaspoonfuls of 1 quart of Apollinaris Maté Put the Maté in a heated jar or pitcher and pour over a pint of boiling water; cover the pot for two minutes, strain, and when cool, put it in a pitcher or punch bowl, with a pint of finely chopped ice, add the Apollinaris, and serve at once. Sugar may be added in the form of rock candy syrup. Use in proportion of one tablespoonful of syrup to one glass of the mixture. Six tablespoonfuls to the quantity given. ORANGE PUNCH 4 oranges 1 lemon 1 pound of sugar Apollinaris Grate the yellow rind from two oranges; add the gratings to the sugar, and a pint of water, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Boil five minutes after it comes to a boil. Take from the fire, and when cold add the juice of the lemon and oranges. When ready to serve, turn in a punch bowl, add cracked ice and sufficient Apollinaris or clear water to make it palatable, about one quart. WEDDING PUNCH 1 tumbler of currant jelly 1 tumbler of raspberry jelly 1 tumbler of blackberry jelly 12 lemons 2 oranges 1 pint of grape juice 1 quart bottle of ginger ale 3 quarts of Apollinaris 1 bottle of sarsaparilla 1 pint of grated pineapple 1 pint of preserved strawberries 1 quart of canned peaches 1/4 pound of conserved cherries 2 pounds of sugar Grate the yellow rind from the oranges and lemons into the sugar, put them into a porcelain-lined kettle, and add one quart of water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil ten minutes. Strain. While hot, add all the jellies and stand aside to cool. When cool, add the grated pineapple, strawberries and conserved cherries cut into quarters. Cover and stand aside all night. At serving time, turn the mixture in the punch bowl, add one quart of shaved ice and all the other ingredients. APPLE CUP 6 tart apples 3 lemons 1/4 stick of cinnamon 2 pounds of sugar 2 bay leaves 1 cup of raisins Cut the apples in quarters, remove the cores, do not pare, put them in a porcelain kettle, with the raisins, bay leaves, cinnamon and grated yellow rind of the lemons. Add two quarts of cold water, bring to a boil, add two more quarts of cold water, cover the kettle, and boil slowly thirty minutes; drain through a muslin bag. When cold, add the juice of the lemons, and when ready to serve add a little shaved ice, or make it very cold. JELLY MAKING AND PRESERVING Before attempting to make jelly, one should become perfectly familiar with the character and the peculiarities of sugar. The numerous varieties of sugar may be roughly divided into three groups. SACCHAROSES C12H22O11 Sucrose (cane sugar) Maltose (malt sugar) Lactose (milk sugar) GLUCOSES C6H12O6 Dextrose Grape sugar Levulose (fruit sugar) AMYLOSES C6H10O5 Starch Gum Dextrin Inulin Cellulose We are principally concerned, in the household, with cane sugar. I do not believe the ordinary glucose is wholesome for continued use. We know so little about its action that it is far better to let it alone for the time being. Under the head of true sugar or saccharoses, we find also maple and beet sugar. In the same group are several different sugars, and while they are represented by the same symbols, they are not equally influenced by the digestive ferments. For instance, yeast acts quickly on a thin solution of cane sugar, converting it first into alcohol and then into acetic acid. In this same group we have lactose (milk sugar), upon which yeast has apparently little or no effect. For this reason, in making koumys (a fermented milk food) a small amount of cane sugar must be added to produce the desired results. Maltose is formed by the action of the enzyme ptyalin in the saliva, and the enzyme amylopsin in the pancreatic secretions, on the starches during the process of digestion. Cane sugar may be changed into dextrose during digestion?-glucose is a dextrose?-but let us do this laboratory work by natural process. The glucose of commerce, an impure dextrose, is very liable to unnatural fermentations in the stomach and intestines. Granting it to be a pure product, it is a result of the digestion outside of the body. As such it is still objectionable. We do not need, when in a normal, healthful condition, predi-gested foods. Glucose is made by boiling cornstarch with dilute sulphuric acid. It is then neutralized with lime, drawn off, and after settling into a clear, thin syrup, is evaporated to the desired thickness and sold under the name of glucose. It frequently comes to our table as "drips" or "table syrup. " In the solid, sugar -like form, it is sold under the name of grape sugar. It is far less sweet than cane sugar, and is more expensive at half the price. If an acid fruit or a fruit juice is boiled with cane sugar, the sugar, in the presence of heat and moisture, and under the influence of the acid, is split into two sugars, one-half of which is dextrose, the other half levulose, invert sugars. The latter sugar is usually in a syrup form, and dextrose is difficult of crystallization. Levulose is deadly sweet, and this is why preserves are so much sweeter than fruits with the same amount of sugar sprinkled over them. Thin, syrup -like jelly has been boiled too long; the sugar has "split," and you have a syrup rather than a jelly. The more acid a fruit contains, the more difficult to make a jelly. In jelly making, if the fruit is overripe, and a pound of sugar is added to a pint of juice, crystals are formed, from the excess of sugar, throughout the cooling jelly. This is especially true of grapes. We do not depend upon the acid of the fruit for jelly making, but the amount of pectose the fruit contains. It is with the greatest difficulty that a jelly can be made from rhubarb. Cranberries, if boiled, break down in a sauce. If they are simply mixed with the sugar quickly, the jelly will be sufficiently hardto cut into slices. Over-ripe fruits are not easily made into jelly. Pectose, an insoluble body existing in many fruits, especially if they are a little under-ripe, will, by the natural ferments of the fruits, be converted into pectin. Pectin does not readily unite with sugar to form a jelly. Pectose does. This is found ready made in the ordinary Irish moss. Do not confound pectose with vegetable mucilage, an entirely different substance, which exists in quince, flaxseed, elm bark and marshmallows, and forms a thick, ropy syrup. Such materials retard true jelly making. Quince seeds will thicken the syrup, but the jelly will not have a true, clean, jelly-like condition; it will be sticky, or ropy. Crab-apples, guavas, grapes, just ripe, lady blush apples, yellow pippins, under-ripe blackberries and quinces contain the largest amount of pectose, and will yield a firm, stiff jelly with half a pound of sugar added to each pint of fruit juice. The juice must be boiling when the sugar is added. Large fruits, as quinces, apples and crab-apples, need not be pared, but the seeds must be removed. JELLY MAKING Jelly making may be divided into two classes: That from fruit rich in pectose, and the by far larger class, containing but a little pectose, and a goodly quantity of acid. THE FIRST GROUP In the first group we will place guavas, crab-apples, quinces, Japanese quinces, lady blush apples, pippins and black currants. It is not necessary to pare the fruit. Remove the seeds and cores, cut the fruit into thin strips, put in a porcelain-lined kettle, and cover with cold water. Allow to each pound of fruit one quart of water. Cover the kettle, boil twenty minutes and drain the pulp over night. Next morning measure the liquor. To each pint allow a half pound of sugar. Put the sugar in a pan and stand it in a moderate oven. Put the liquor in a porcelain-lined kettle and bring to boiling point, boil ten minutes, add the sugar, and try the jelly at once. Nine out of ten times, if the fruit has been in good condition it will jelly instantly. Put a teaspoonful into a saucer and stand it on ice; if it solidifies at once remove the jelly from the fire, and pour it carefully into perfectly clean tumblers. If possible, put the jelly to cool under glass or window sash, so that the air will not fall directly on it; the sash should be fixed so that it will not touch the top of the glasses. The spores of mold constantly floating in the air, are apt to fall on the jelly while it is cooling. Then jelly molds as soon as it is put into a dark closet. When the jelly is cold and firm, cover the tops with two thicknesses of tissue paper, pasting it down on the tumblers with either photographers' paste or white of egg. When dry, brush the tops of the paper lightly with a mixture of a teaspoonful of formaldehyde and a half pint of water, and let them dry again. This wetting and drying will shrink the paper, making the top almost like a bladder skin. Keep the jelly in a perfectly clean closet; allow the sun to enter the closet every day. Fruits and jellies are better kept in sunlight than in the dark. Dark and damp closets are conducive to mold. THE SECOND GROUP This group will include grapes and ripe blackberries, raspberries, currants and strawberries. While these fruits contain pectose, they also contain fruit sugar and a goodly quantity of acid. To make jelly easily from these fruits, select those just a little under-ripe and perfectly fresh from vine or bush. Soft fruits, as currants, raspberries and strawberries, are mashed and drained over night. Boil and finish precisely the same as in preceding recipe, using one pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Grapes must be covered with water, allowing one pint to a pound, boiled, drained over night and finished as in first recipe, allowing two-thirds of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Plums are rich in pectose, which is more or less overpowered by the quantity of acid they contain. Water must be used sparingly. Use a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Cherries, peaches, pears, huckleberries and elderberries contain so little pectose that it is almost impossible to make from them a good stiff jelly. APPLE JELLY 12 pounds of apples 6 quarts of water Sugar Wash, wipe and cut the apples into halves, then into quarters, and remove the cores. Slice them rather thin, put them into a porcelain-lined kettle, add the cold water, cover the kettle, bring to boiling point, and boil gently for twenty minutes. Drain carefully over night; do not squeeze or press the bag. Next morning strain this syrup, put it into a porcelain-lined kettle, bring quickly to boiling point, boil rapidly for five minutes, and add one pound of sugar to each pint of juice; stir until the sugar is dissolved. Boil quickly and begin to "try;" just as soon as it begins to form a jelly take it from the fire and fill it at once into perfectly clean tumblers. To "try," dip a teaspoonful into a saucer and stand the saucer into cold water, or on a piece of ice. In a moment scrape the spoon through it, and if it is brittle, like jelly, it has been boiled long enough. Add the seeds of two vanilla beans , and pour at once into tumblers. There is more danger in over-boiling than under-boiling. STRAWBERRY JELLY Stem, wash and mash the berries, drain in a jelly bag or through a piece of cheese cloth. To each pint allow one pound of sugar. Put the juice over the fire, bring to boiling point, and boil for fifteen minutes; add the sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, boil for five minutes, and begin to try. Put a little in a saucer, and stand it on the ice; if it forms a jelly-like crust on the surface, fill into tumblers, cool and fasten as directed. This recipe will answer for Raspberries, Raspberries and Currants Mixed, and Currants. PRESERVING This word is used, in reference to fruits, when they are cooked in a thick syrup. Sugar is not a preservative, unless the syrup is sufficiently dense to prevent the entrance of bacteria. The spores of mold will fall on the surface, grow and spoil the true flavor of the fruit; but they rarely cause fermentation. One recipe will answer for preserving all kinds of fruits. Prepare the fruit, weigh, and to each pound allow one pound of sugar. The more solid fruits, as pears, apples and quinces, must be boiled in clear water until tender before adding the sugar. The water in which they are boiled may be saved for jelly making or flavoring. In preserving quinces, it is the universal rule to make jelly from this water and the skins, using the flesh of the quince for preserves or conserves. After the fruit is tender, add it to the boiling syrup, that has been made from the sugar and sufficient water to melt it. Cook slowly, below the boiling point, until the fruit is transparent. Put in tumblers or jars, seal or cover with paraffin or paper the same as jelly. STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED IN THE SUN While the sun- preserved fruits require time and patience, they are, without doubt, much better than those cooked over the fire. In the country, where a hot-bed is at command, the work is easily done. Put the strawberries into a wire basket, which plunge down in a pan of cold water, drain thoroughly, stem carefully without bruising. Weigh the strawberries, and to each pound allow one pound of granulated sugar. Select large stoneware plates, make them very hot either on top of the stove or in the oven; sprinkle over a layer of the granulated sugar and cover this closely with the berries. Cover with glass and stand in the sun's hottest rays. Move the dish as the sun changes its position. At four o'clock bring them in, and stand aside in a closet or cool place. Next day put them out again in the sun. By this time they will no doubt have become clear, almost transparent, and thoroughly soft, but perfectly whole. Lift each berry carefully with a fork, and put into a tumbler or bottle. Boil the syrup over the fire for a few minutes until it thickens; strain, cool, and pour it over the fruit. This recipe will answer also for RASPBERRIES. PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES, No. 2 To preserve strawberries in the old-fashioned way, wash and hull the berries as directed above, and use the same proportion of sugar. Cover the bottom of a large porcelain kettle with the sugar; put in the berries, then sprinkle over more sugar; stand over a very moderate fire until the strawberries reach the scalding point; lift them carefully into jars, boil down the syrup, cover, and when cold, seal. APPLE BUTTER Reduce the cider one-half by boiling. When it is time to make the apple butter, pare, core and quarter the desired quantity of apples, allowing one-third of sweet to two-thirds of sour apples. Have the cider boiling rapidly, throw in the apples and keep constantly stirring until they are cooked and reduced. Then throw in more, and so on until you have the mixture the desired thickness. Cook slowly, skimming whenever necessary, and stirring constantly. When it begins to break, that is, when the apples separate from the cider, add to each bushel of apples two pounds of sugar and a little cinnamon, and continue the cooking until, by trying a small quantity in a saucer, it is found to be a smooth mass, and does not separate. It requires, as a rule, a half bushel of sweet and one bushel of sour apples to each gallon and a half of boiled cider. PEACH BUTTER Wipe the peaches, do not pare, remove the stones. Put them in a porcelain kettle, add to each peck a quart of water, cover the kettle and cook slowly one hour, stirring frequently; add five pounds of sugar, cook, and stir constantly for another half hour. This should be smooth and the consistency of mush. CONSERVES Conserves or candied fruits are simply preserved fruits, dried. One recipe will answer for all fruits. Prepare and weigh the fruit, and to each pound allow one pound of sugar. Quinces are usually cut into very thin slices; pineapples cut into slices or blocks; cherries stoned; oranges left perfectly whole; citrons cut into halves and the pulp and seeds scooped out; lemon rind and orange rind the same. The rinds of the latter three are used as flavoring for cakes, mince meat and puddings. For CHERRIES, PINEAPPLE, QUINCES, GAGES and PEARS, put the sugar into a preserving kettle, and to each pound allow one pint of water and a saltspoonful of cream of tartar; stir over the fire until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, boil and skim. Put in the fruit. Cover the kettle, and push to the back of the stove, where it will simmer gently until the fruit is perfectly transparent; drain in sieves, dust thickly with sugar and dry either in the sun or in a moderate oven. When the fruit has lost its moisture on the outside, roll it in granulated sugar. To keep, arrange it in layers between sheets of wax paper. For ORANGE, LEMON and CITRON, cover the prepared rinds with brine, and stand them aside over night. Next morning, drain, cover with fresh cold water, bring to a boil, drain, cover again with fresh cold water, bring to a boil, and simmer gently until the skins are tender; drain, and weigh; allow one pound of sugar to each pound of rinds. Proceed as directed above. CANNING All fruits may be canned with or without sugar, as a thin syrup takes no part whatever in the preservation of the fruits. Canned fruits must be sterile, and this is best and most easily accomplished by heat. All preservatives are more or less dangerous. If these materials will prevent fermentation in jars, and "preserve" the fruits, they will also "preserve" it in the stomach. Of what use are indigestible foods? Canning is easily done if the housewife can be made to understand surgical cleanliness. One recipe will answer for all small fruits. TO CAN SMALL FRUITS WITHOUT SUGAR Pick over, and wash the fruits if they are sandy. Pack them in perfectly clean jars; adjust the rubbers; fill the jars with cold water, lay on the lids, do not screw or fasten them down. Stand the jars in a boiler, the bottom of which has been protected with a rack, surround the jars half way up with cold water, cover the boiler, bring to boiling point, and boil rapidly five minutes. Uncover the boiler, lift one jar at a time, and fasten each lid, without removing it from the jar. CAUTION.?-Do not lift off the lids and lay them on the table. The table has on it spores of molds or yeasts, which will grow inside the jars and cause fermentation. TO CAN WITH SUGAR Make a syrup, boil it, and when cold use the same as plain water. Allow a pound of sugar to each pint of water; or for the soft fruits, as strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, sprinkle them with sugar before putting them in the jars. If in cooking they melt and shrink, at the end of the boiling fill two jars from a third. Cover and cook ten minutes. TO CAN LARGE FRUIT WITH SUGAR This recipe will answer equally well for peaches and plums. Put them in a wire basket or colander, and plunge them down into boiling water. Peel off the skins, remove the stones or not, as you wish, weigh the fruit, and allow to each pound of fruit a quarter pound of sugar. Put the sugar in a kettle, and to each pound add a quart of water. Boil, skim and cool. Put the fruit in the jars and pour over the syrup; adjust the rubbers, lay on the lids, and finish the same as small fruits. TO CAN PEACHES WITHOUT SUGAR Follow the preceding recipe, using plain boiled and cooled water. Cherry Stoner Page 649 An illustration of a Cherry Stoner. TO CAN PEARS Pare, cut the fruit into halves, remove the cores, and put them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. When you have eleven good-sized pears ready, put them in a porcelain kettle; cover with hot water, and cook slowly until they can be easily pierced with a straw. Lift each piece carefully, arrange them in a jar, cover with boiled, cold water, adjust the rubbers, put them in a boiler and follow directions in first recipe. Boil ten minutes after they begin to boil. Syrup may be used for canning the same as with peaches. GAGES AND PLUMS Scald the gages and remove the skins and weigh. To each pound allow a half pound of sugar. Pack the gages neatly in pint jars and adjust the rubbers. Add to each pound of sugar a half pint of water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and pour the syrup into the jars. Lay the caps of the jars on loosely; do not fasten them. Arrange them in the boiler the same as for peaches, and boil for thirty minutes after they begin to boil. Lift one jar at a time and fasten the lid without removing it. TO CAN CHERRIES Stone and weigh the cherries. Allow to each pound a half pound of sugar; sprinkle this in layers between the cherries, and stand them aside for a half hour. Heat to boiling point enough to fill three or four jars, skim, and stir lightly until they boil again. Scald the jars, adjust the rubbers, and scald the tops, stand a jar on a folded towel on a pie tin, carry it to the stove, and, holding it near the preserving kettle, fill it with the boiling cherries; quickly fasten on the top. So continue, filling and sealing one jar before filling a second. STRAWBERRIES, RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES and HUCKLEBERRIES may be canned by this same method. All these fruits may be canned without sugar, and cooked the same as plums. STRAWBERRY JUICE Wash and hull the berries; mash, strain them first through a fine sieve, then a jelly-bag. Put the syrup in a porcelain-lined kettle, boil rapidly ten minutes; bottle while hot, cork and seal. STRAWBERRY SYRUP is prepared in the same way. After the syrup has boiled for ten minutes, add sugar in the proportion of a half pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Put into bottles, and seal while hot. Other FRUIT JUICES and SYRUPS are bottled in precisely the same manner. CANNING VEGETABLES Where the housewife understands the real definition of surgical cleanliness, the canning of vegetables becomes an easy process. All vegetables are easily kept if the conditions are correct. Containing sugar and starch, as many vegetables do, they furnish food for the yeast plants and bacteria, which makes them more difficult to keep than fruits rich in acids. Tomatoes are most easily kept; in fact, it is with difficulty that one can spoil them, but they are the exception. Corn, beets and peas, containing sugar, are the most difficult vegetables to preserve. The jars must have glass or metal tops without lining. A porcelain lining leaves a space between it and the upper lid, which cannot be easily cleaned. All vegetables must be freshly gathered and carefully prepared. Not a single law or rule can be modified or overlooked. TO CAN ASPARAGUS Wash and trim the asparagus. Cover it with boiling water, boil fifteen minutes, drain, cool, and arrange it neatly, heads up, in wide-mouthed jars; adjust the rubbers, fill the jars to overflowing, with water that has been boiled and cooled; add a half teaspoonful of salt, and lay the tops on loosely. Stand the jars in a large wash-boiler, the bottom of which has been protected by a rack; surround them half way up with cold water, cover the boiler, bring quickly to boiling point, and boil continuously for a half hour. Lift one jar at a time, and quickly fasten on and screw down the lid without lifting it from the jar. This recipe will also answer for STRING BEANS ; the beans may be cut crosswise or into three pieces lengthwise. TO CAN PEAS Fill clean jars with freshly pickled young peas; fill each jar with water that has been boiled and cooled; adjust the rubbers, lay on loosely the tops, arrange them in a wash boiler as directed in preceding recipe, and boil them continuously for two and a half to three hours. Lift each jar and fasten it without lifting the lid of the jar; that is, you must not lift the lid off and put it down, then pick it up and put it on the jar. It will hold sufficient yeast spores to contaminate the jar. This rule will also answer for young LIMA BEAN S and other shell beans . TO CAN CORN Score down each row of grains and press out the pulp; pack this pulp into pint jars, adjust the rubbers, lay on the lids loosely; stand the jars in a wash boiler, the bottom of which is protected by a rack, surround them partly with cold water, cover the boiler, and boil continuously for three and a half hours. Then fasten each jar, put it back into the boiler, cover the boiler, and boil thirty minutes longer. Never mind whether the jars are full or not; that is of little importance compared to the cleanly condition of the jars. If it becomes necessary to fill two jars from a third on account of the shrinking of the materials, do it quickly, screw down the lids, and cook thirty minutes longer. TO CAN BEETS Select young fresh beets; wash, put them into boiling water, and boil carefully for thirty minutes; then remove the skins, and pack the beets into quart jars. Add a half pint of vinegar to a quart of water that has been boiled and cooled; fill the jars with this mixture, adjust the rubbers, and lay the tops on loosely. Put the jars in a wash boiler, and arrange them according to preceding recipes. Cover the boiler, and boil continuously for three-quarters of an hour. Fasten the jars, and stand them away. CARROTS and TURNIPS may be canned after this rule, omitting the vinegar, and using plain water that has been boiled and cooled. TO CAN TOMATOES WHOLE Select medium-sized solid tomatoes, put them into a wire basket or colander, plunge them down into boiling water for just a moment, and remove; peel off the skins, arrange them in one-quart or two-quart jars, adjust the rubbers, add a half tea-spoonful of salt to each jar, and fill with cold water that has been boiled and cooled. Lay the tops on loosely, arrange them in a wash boiler as directed, cover the boiler, bring to boiling point, and boil ten minutes. Fasten each jar without lifting the lid. STEWED TOMATOES Peel the tomatoes as directed in preceding recipe, cut them into halves, and press out the seeds; put the flesh of the tomatoes into a porcelain-lined kettle; boil, stirring frequently until the tomatoes are reduced to the proper consistency, which will take about thirty minutes. In the meantime, put the rubbers into boiling water. Put the jars and lids into cold water, and bring to boiling point. When you are ready to can the tomatoes lift one jar from the hot water, stand it on a folded cloth in a pie dish at the side of the stove; adjust the rubber, put into the jar a broad-mouthed funnel that has also been taken from boiling water, and, with a dipper, fill the jar to overflowing with the boiling tomatoes. Take a lid from the boiling water, and put it at once on the jar, fasten it, and so continue until you have canned the amount. Fill only one jar at a time, and fasten that jar before filling a second. CORN and OCHRA may be cooked with the tomatoes, and canned after this rule. TABLE WAITING?OR HOW TO TRAIN THE WAITRESS A COURSE DINNER Perhaps it is unnecessary to say that a long course dinner must never be undertaken by those who keep only one or two servants. To have the conventional dinner a success, dishes must be well-cooked, delicately seasoned, handsomely garnished and properly served. Hot dishes must come to the table smoking hot and be served on hot plates. Cold dishes must be cold and served on cold plates. White dishes must be white, and brown dishes that chestnut brown color, given only by artistic cooking. Where only one servant is kept, a small, three-course dinner is much more satisfactory; in fact, a crust of bread and a cup of tea daintily and handsomely served is much more hospitable than an elaborate dinner badly served in an ill-heated and ill-lighted room. Even the conventional dinner served by well trained servants should have the number of its guests limited; it is far better to give three dinners to six guests than one to eighteen. The success of a dinner, large or small, depends upon the selection of the guests. Brilliant conversation is really the dinner. The host and hostess should be as free from the thought of the routine of a dinner as any guest at the table, otherwise the dinner is a failure. At a formal dinner, conventional etiquette must be strictly observed. Rules have been formulated that cannot be neglected or overlooked; the form of invitation, the manner of seating the guests, and even the garnishing and serving of the dishes must conform to these accepted rules. In large establishments, where every dinner is well served, there is no change in the general routine. One may add an entrée or a game course without changing the general plan of the daily meal. The ordinary home dinner, in nine out of ten families, consists of soup followed by meat with two vegetables, then a salad course with wafers and cheese, the dessert and coffee. You may call this if you like, five courses. Coffee is frequently brought in with the dessert. To elongate this dinner, to make it rather more pretentious, add a fish course, or serve game with the salad. Such a dinner would be sufficiently elegant, no matter to whom served. THE COMPANY DINNER The hostess should hand her bill of fare to the cook at least four days before the dinner party. All instructions should be carefully written. If she has a waitress of whom she is not sure, let the instructions for her also be carefully written. If a butler is employed he will know how to serve, but must be acquainted with that especial bill of fare in order to select the proper china. An eight-course dinner, simply, quickly and elegantly served, will require about one and a half to two hours; every moment over this is a discomfort. In arranging the bill of fare, be most cautious in the choice of dishes. Select those in season, foods that are actually fresh, as well as those harmonizing with the occasion and surroundings. If fish, an entrée, a meat course and game are served, make sure that the dessert is light, sightly and appetizing. Syllabub garnished with chopped cherries, an omelette soufflee, or a handsome Charlotte Russe are to be preferred. The dining-room must be well-lighted, well-heated and carefully ventilated. Invitations will be sent out two weeks in advance, and must be answered at once; otherwise the hostess is unable to fill the vacant seats, and this spoils the arrangement of the table. Accepted dinner invitations must be rigidly complied with; under no circumstances must a trivial affair prevent the going. If there is any doubt in your mind when accepting, better regret and miss the dinner party than to be discourteous and embarrass the hostess. A dinner invitation may be accepted or regretted formally. A little informal note, however, when the invitation cannot be accepted, is much more pleasing to the hostess. Well-bred people do not use R. S. V. P. on dinner invitations. Your guests will have sufficient politeness to reply without having their attention abruptly called to it. The general form of invitation will read: Mr. and Mrs. William Jones Wilson request the honor of Colonel and Mrs. Charles A. Brown's company at dinner on Tuesday, January fourth at eight o'clock 1826 Walnut Street December first, nineteen hundred and two An illustration of an Invitation card. Direct the envelope to Mrs. Charles A. Brown. The acceptance will read: Colonel and Mrs. Charles A. Brown accept with pleasure Mr. and Mrs. William Jones Wilson's invitation to dinner on Tuesday, January fourth at eight o'clock 1520 West Superior Street December first, nineteen hundred and two An illustration of Acceptence of an Invitation. The envelope should be addressed to Mrs. William Jones Wilson. A formal regret will read: Colonel and Mrs. Charles A. Brown regret that a previous engagement prevents the acceptance of Mr. and Mrs. William Jones Wilson's kind invitation to dinner on Tuesday, January fourth at eight o'clock 1520 West Superior Street December first, nineteen hundred and two An illustration of a rejection of Invitation. To my way of thinking, a little informal note, explaining the true cause of regret, is much more satisfying. To an ordinary home dinner, or where one invites just a few friends to a simple dinner, write a little note saying: My Dear Mrs. Brown Will you and Colonel Brown dine with us, informally, on Monday evening, January sixteenth, at seven o'clock? I am Sincerely yours Bertha May Easton 1806 Walnut Street December first, nineteen hundred and two An illustration of an Informal invitation. Do not for a moment think that your informal dinner must be a hap-hazard one; have everything as well served as though ********* Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Oysters Page 659 An illustration of a Dinner table Ready for Dinner. Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Soup Page 660 An illustration of a Dinner table Set up for eating Soup. Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Fish Page 660 Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Entrée Page 661 An illustration of a Dinner Table Set up for eating Entrees. Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Meat Page 661 Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Salad Page 662 An illustration of a Dinner Table Set up for Serving of Salad. Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Dessert Page 662 An illustration of a Dinner Table Set Up for Serving of Dessert. Serving and Waiting at a Course Dinner Coffee Page 663 An illustration of a Dinner Table Set Up for Serving of Coffee. it were a formal dinner. If you have a butler, he wears for all dinners a dress suit and white tie. If a waitress a plain black dress with broad collar, white cuffs and waitress' apron with bib, and three-pointed waitress' cap. This cap may be perfectly plain white, or have in front a small, black velvet bow. Above all things, see that the dinner is ready just at the appointed time, not ten minutes before nor ten minutes after the hour. Be prompt. Nothing is more discouraging to a good cook than a dinner spoiled by over-waiting. A few minutes' grace is allowed to professional men, as physicians. If your company consists of guests of this kind, have the cook allow a grace of ten to fifteen minutes over the appointed hour. At large conventional dinners, there is usually placed in the gentlemen's dressing room, a small tray holding envelopes addressed to the gentlemen, containing cards, on which is written the lady's name whom each is to escort to the table. If the dinner is large and the table long, it is wise to note also the side of the table to which he is assigned; for instance, if he is to be seated on the right side of the table, a large R or the word right, if the left, the word left. If a strange lady should be assigned to him, that is a lady to whom he has not been presented, he must make this known to the servant, the servant to the hostess, who will at once "present" him. The waitress or butler keeps a sharp watch out for the arrival of guests. When all have arrived and have had sufficient time in the dressing room, dinner will be announced. The servant will enter just at the parlor door, wait until the hostess recognizes him, and then say quietly, "dinner is served," and, with a bow to the hostess, back out of the room. The host immediately offers his right arm to the most distinguished lady guest, who sits at his right at the table. They lead the way to the dining-room, the remaining guests following, the hostess, with the most distinguished gentleman, waiting until the last. All remain standing at their places at the table, until the hostess arrives. She will be seated immediately, and all will follow. To save confusion, a small dinner card bearing the name of the guest to occupy the place, may be on the napkin or at the left of each cover; have the name written simply and distinctly. If a rose bud is thrown at the top of the plate, a little bow of ribbon on each stem, may act as a dinner card, the name being written on one end of the ribbon. If menu cards are used, the name may be written across the corner of the menu card. These will then be carried away as souvenirs. SERVING AND WAITING AT TABLE A simple, easily prepared menu with a few illustrations may serve to show the accepted methods of serving and waiting at table. MENU OYSTERS ON HALF SHELL TOBASCO SAUCE HORSERADISH LEMON THIN CRACKERS OR BROWN BREAD SANDWICHES CONSOMMé A LA ROYAL BREAD STICKS BOILED ROCK SAUCE HOLLANDAISE POTATO BALLS CUCUMBERS, FRENCH DRESSING SWEETBREAD PATTIES ROASTED CAPON CHESTNUT STUFFING CRANBERRY JELLY SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES PEAS FRENCH SALAD CAMEMBERT TOASTED CRACKERS ALMOND PUDDING HARD SAUCE COFFEE BONBONS SALTED ALMONDS The cuts illustrate the manner of serving each course, and are not in any way supposed to represent table decorating. Cover the table with a spotless, white linen cloth, sufficiently heavy to hang in graceful folds. Never starch table-cloths or napkins. In the centre of the table, place a large vase of roses or any suitable flowers. A basket or a rose jar may be substituted for the vase. Let the centre piece be simple and plain; avoid lace, ruffles or frills. Washable embroideries only are used on elegant tables. If cut flowers are to be used, select those free from heavy odor and to correspond with the lighting and color of the dining-room. Arrange neatly in small cut glass, silver or china dishes, olives, radishes or celery, salted almonds and bonbons. Serve olives, radishes and celery with sufficient cracked ice to keep them cool. Place the napkin to the left of the plate; knives to the right, blades turned in; nearest the plate the dessert knife, next the meat knife, then the fish knife, then the soup spoon, and on the outside, to the right, the oyster fork, or place it as shown in the diagram. On the left nearest the plate, a dessert fork, then the salad fork, next the meat fork, then a small fork for the entrée, and last, the fish fork. The service will be used from the outside toward the plate. Butter is not, as a rule, served at dinner, so butter chips or plates are not used. On the right, at the head of the knives, place a tumbler for water and the wine glasses. If wine is not used, place a smaller tumbler for Apol-linaris. All the plates and silver for a dinner must be gotten ready and grouped at least two hours before the serving of the meal. A roll or thick bit of dinner bread may be placed on the napkin. The knife and fork rests are, as you will notice, on the table; also the soup ladle, a spoon for the olives, and a small spoon for the bonbons. If individual salt cellars are used, one will be placed at the head of each plate. A cold dinner plate will be placed first; and, just as the meal is announced, smaller plates containing oysters on the half shell, are placed in these. Cover the smaller plate with finely cracked ice, and at the last moment sink or work the shells down in it; put a quarter of a lemon in the centre of the dish. As soon as the guests are seated, the waitress will pass, on a small tray, a dish of horseradish, a bottle of tobasco, an extra dish of lemon, and crackers or brown bread sandwiches. She then pours water and Apollinaris. A different set of plates may be used for each course; but the guests must never be left without a plate except when crumbing the table after the salad course. As soon as the oysters are eaten, the waitress will have near at hand on the sideboard or side table, the soup service. She brings to the table, in her right hand, a warm dinner plate; lifting the oyster plate with her left hand, she immediately places the new service, and so continues until all plates are changed. The soup tureen and a few soup dishes are now placed before the hostess who ladles the soup into the plates. The waitress holding the plates, one at a time, on her left hand, close to the left of the soup tureen; when served she places them before the guests from the right with her right hand. She now pours the sherry or Madeira, refills the Apollinaris and water glasses, and passes the celery or radishes; these are served with the soup course. The guests now break the bread, unless they have used it with their oysters, which is permissible. The fish is being dished in the kitchen, the sauce strained, and, with the heated fish plates, they are placed in the pantry ready for service. The waitress now removes the soup tureen; coming back, she brings with her the warm fish plates, putting them on the side table. Going to the right of each guest, carrying in her right hand a warm fish plate, removes the soup plates with her left hand, and places the fish plates. She now places the fish before the host, the sauce at the left-hand side with a ladle for serving; she places the fish knife on his right, and at his left the fork. When she is going backwards and forwards, she, of course, removes the radishes and celery. She always lifts the plate with her left and replaces it with her right hand. The host carves the fish, helping also the potatoes and sauce. The waitress stands at his left, and has in her hand the extra heated fish plate. As soon as he has served one plate, she lifts it, putting down the extra plate, and carries in her right hand the served plate to the hostess, and with her left hand lifts the plate that is already there. She now returns to the host, lifts the plate in front of him, and with her right hand simply puts down the unfilled plate, and so continues until all are served. An extra plate saves much time. She serves the cucumbers at the side table, and places them at the right of each guest. The sherry glasses used are removed, and a white wine poured. She observes the glasses, fills those that require filling, and pours the Apollinaris, if necessary. The patties are being placed on dainty little mats, in the centre of a luncheon plate, in the pantry. At the end of the fish course, the waitress lifts first the large fish platter and sauce boat and then the cucumber dishes. Coming back, she brings a plate with patty, lifts the fish plate in front of the hostess, and places the patty, and so continues until all are served. Olives may now be passed. While this course is being eaten, the meat is being dished and garnished, also the vegetables. The waitress places the carving knife to the right, the fork and steel to the left, of the host. She brings the warm dinner plates to the side table; when ready she removes, with the left hand, the entrée plate from in front of the hostess and places a dinner plate, going back to the side table she brings another plate as before, and so changes each plate at the table. She now goes to the pantry, brings in the turkey, and places it in front of the host; returning, she brings the potato croquettes, peas and cranberry jelly. While the turkey is being carved, she places the necessary silver and refills the glasses, and pours claret or champagne. If the host does not carve, he simply, by motion, makes this known, and the turkey is lifted, carried to the side table, and there carved, then placed in front of the host to serve, or it may be passed to the left of each guest. The waitress lifts a serving spoon from the table, puts it in the peas, rests the dish on the palm of left hand, and, going to the left of each guest, holds it down to the very edge of the dinner plate close to the table, so that one may help one's self easily. She next passes the potato croquettes; then the cranberry jelly. She now passes the olives, and refills the water glasses, keeping a strict eye to the conditions of the table. She slips into the pantry for a moment to see if the salad course is nicely dished, the crackers toasted and the cheese in order. This has all been ordered before dinner, you must remember; but it is well to have it overlooked. She stands near the chair of the hostess, paying no attention to what is going on in the room, but watches the requirements of each guest; if the bread has been consumed, she passes bread from the sideboard; she may offer vegetables the second time. At the end of this course, she lifts the turkey and carries it to the pantry, then the vegetable dishes, then the wineglasses and olives; nothing is now left on the table but the salted almonds and bonbons; the plates are still in front of the guests. She will now bring in a salad plate in her right hand, and with her left lift the dinner plate from in front of the hostess; put down the salad plate, and so continue around the table, serving each course precisely the same. If the salad is dressed at the table, she places it in front of the hostess; on the left hand the lettuce tearer, the salad fork and spoon, olive oil, vinegar and proper seasonings, with small bowl for mixing. If the salad is dressed outside, she simply places it for a moment in front of the hostess, who will give it an extra mixing. The waitress now lifts the salad dish, arranges the spoon handles to one side, places the bowl on the palm of the left hand, offers it to the left of each guest, allowing them to help themselves. On a small tray, she offers wafers or crackers and cheese at the left of each guest. At the end of this course, the table is cleared, and for the first time the guests are left without a plate in front of them. After removing the salad bowl and plates, the waitress removes, on a small tray covered with a doily, the salt cellars and all the silver, as odd forks and spoons, from the table. Now, with folded napkin and tray she quickly removes the crumbs. If pieces are left on the table too large to be brushed with the napkin, lift them with a fork, which she will have on the side of the tray for this purpose. She now places in front of each, beginning always with the hostess, the dessert plates covered with dainty doilies, on top of which are placed the finger bowls. These will contain a little warm water, scented with violet, or throw in it at the last moment, a leaf of geranium or a dainty flower, with a slice of lemon. She now brings in the dessert, which in this case happens to be a pudding garnished with cherries, and places it in front of the hostess; on the right, a silver cake knife and spoon, and on the left a serving fork. Each person lifts the bowl with the doily, and places it just to the left of the dessert plate. The hostess dishes a portion of the dessert on the plate in front of her, putting at the side a spoonful of hard sauce. The waitress carries it to the right of the guest in her right hand, and with the left hand lifts the plate that is there. After all are served, she passes salted almonds, and goes to the pantry for the coffee. On a dainty tray, she brings in the coffee and sugar, placing it at the right of the hostess. The small cups, with spoons, are then placed; the coffee is poured, the waitress, with a small tray, carries two cups and sugar, passing to the left of each guest. She then passes the bonbons, refills the glasses, and leaves the room. If coffee is served in the drawing-room or library, the bonbons are passed there. The waitress arranges the cups in the library while the dessert is being finished. She is waiting at the door; when the guests enter the library she follows with the coffee tray, an ordinary silver salver, placing it before the hostess; as each cup is filled, she passes it on a small tray, on which she also places the cut sugar. She then stands near the door until the hostess gives her the signal for dismissal. This same routine is followed out at the smallest as well as at the largest dinners. While this routine may seem complicated to a few, when once established it gives much comfort to the hostess. These directions for table waiting will answer for luncheon or a twelve o'clock breakfast as well as for a dinner. A PLEA FOR THE LITTLE DINNER A dinner engagement, no matter whether the dinner be large or small, formal or informal, is the most exacting of social obligations. Indeed, one feels a double sense of obligation when invited to a small dinner. If, among your friends, are physicians, lawyers and politicians, do not invite one of each class, nor all of one class simply because their professions are the same, but select congenial spirits. Then small, inexpensive dinners, well arranged, are much more enjoyable than one large conventional dinner served to sixty ill-selected persons. The food is better, service better, and digestion better, and even where trained help is not employed, the hostess may enjoy the occasion as well as the guests. The art of dining is quite apart from dinner giving. The person who dines has studied the art of living, lives frugally and elegantly. A reform in dinner giving is, I am pleased to note, being instituted. Simple dinners are now "the correct thing." A hostess must never forget that, during the short time her guests are under her roof, she is responsible for their happiness and comfort. A huge dinner of twelve courses of badly-blended food is not conducive to either. Savarin said, "The dinner is the place where men are never bored for the first hour;" the insinuation is that the second hour is frequently too long. If people in the ordinary walks of life are to make such entertainments a success, they must never try new or elaborate dishes, or even new ways of serving. Simply add an extra plate or two to the usual number, and invite your friends. The conventional dinner can only be served in the homes of the very wealthy, and very few of these succeed in doing it well, and but few of their guests enjoy it. Just contemplate for a moment the dinner of ten years ago: Ice-cold oysters in quantity sufficient for a whole meal; hot soup, then fish; relèves and entrées; then a roast, a pause for a highly seasoned, stimulating punch, to bring the stomach back to life; then game, salad, sweets, and another ice. Then coffee as an antidote, and a warming-pan to the poor, chilled stomach. These were feedings, extravagant, coarse and vulgar. A Few Simple Dinners TOMATO SOUP CROÛTONS CREAMED FISH POTATO ROSES BOILED CHICKEN EGG SAUCE RICE PEAS LETTUCE SALAD WAFERS NEUFCHATEL CHEESE WHIPPED CREAM LADY FINGERS COFFEE CLEAR SOUP BROILED STEAK MUSHROOM SAUCE STUFFED POTATOES SPINACH CHICORY SALAD EDUCATORS CREAM CHEESE COFFEE SALTED ALMONDS MINT WAFERS CLEAR SOUP BREAD STICKS MACARONI CROQUETTES TOMATO SAUCE STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON BROWN SAUCE COLD ASPARAGUS WAFERS CHEESE COFFEE OYSTER AND CELERY SOUP ROASTED TURKEY CRANBERRY SAUCE SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES CREAMED ONIONS CELERY SALAD TOAST FINGERS ITALIAN CREAM COFFEE GRAPE FRUIT ROASTED LAMB MINT SAUCE NEW POTATOES CREAM SAUCE PEAS COLD ASPARAGUS FRENCH DRESSING CAMMEMBERT WATER CRACKERS COFFEE Fast Day Dinner CREAM OF SPINACH SOUP BAKED FISH SAUCE HOLLANDAISE POTATOES TINY CRAB CROQUETTES LETTUCE SALAD WAFERS CHEESE COFFEE Vegetarian PEANUT SOUP BEAN CROQUETTES TOMATO SAUCE CAULIFLOWER OR CABBAGE MACARONI CELERY SALAD WAFERS CHEESE APPLES WITH RICE COFFEE SERVING DINNER WITHOUT A MAID This is, of course, a difficult task, but it can be done if thought is given to the first arrangements. Have but few people; it is better to have two small dinners than one large one. Prepare the soup, a consommé, the day before. Clarify, season and strain it; cover and keep in a cold place. For the experimental dinner, select a simple menu, composed largely of dishes that can be wholly or partly prepared in the morning. CONSOMMé BREAD FINGERS PANNED CHICKEN CREAM SAUCE POTATO CROQUETTES PEAS LETTUCE SALAD WAFERS NEUFCHATEL CHEESE LEMON JELLY FRENCH CUSTARD SAUCE LADY FINGERS COFFEE The dinner hour is six o'clock. After finishing the usual morning work, put parlor and dining-room in order, go to the kitchen and begin the preparations for the dinner. Wash the lettuce, shake, and put it aside in a damp cloth on the ice or in the cellar. Make the jelly and custard, and put them in the cold. Next make the potato croquettes. While the potatoes are boiling, singe, draw, cut up the chickens and arrange them at once in the baking pan; put the butter and pepper over, and stand them aside. Make the croquettes; fry and put them at once into a baking pan lined with paper. They are now ready to run in a hot oven to heat just a moment before serving time. Shell the peas, and make the butter balls. This preparatory work will take about an hour and a half. Then take your luncheon and rest awhile. At three o'clock go to the dining-room and arrange the table. On the side table put the crackers, cheese and the necessary extra silver. This may be a small table at your left in reaching distance, that you may serve without moving from your chair. Place on it also the salad and dessert plates. On the side-board arrange the cups and saucers, and leave a place for the dessert. All being in readiness, fix the kitchen fire, and then go to your room and put the necessary finishing touches to your toilet. Put on a large pair of sleevelets and an apron, and at five o'clock begin the cooking of the dinner. Add a pint of water to the chicken, and put it in the hot oven; in a half hour, add a teaspoonful of salt, and baste it. At half-past five o'clock, put the peas over to cook. Turn out the dessert and place it on the side-board. Arrange the lettuce; make the French dressing, put it in a pretty bowl, and put both on the side table. Put the coffee in the pot, and see that the teakettle is rilled. At a quarter of six put the croquettes in the oven and the consommé over to heat. Then put the bread and butter on the table. Remove your apron, receive the guests and slip back to the kitchen. Dish the chicken, make a cream sauce in the pan, and stand the platter where it will keep hot. Drain, season and dish the peas. Dish the croquettes. Pour the soup in the tureen, carry it to the table and announce dinner. Place the warm plates, also the chicken, which should be prettily garnished with curled parsley, in front of the host. Then take your seat, and resume conversation as though you had not left the table. At the end of this course, remove the plates and large dishes quickly to the kitchen. While there, pour the boiling water over the coffee, allowing it to stand over a pan of hot water. Be seated. First lift the crackers and cheese, and place them on the table. Place the salad plates in front of you; pour the dressing over the lettuce, mix and serve it. Pass the wafers and cheese. At the end of this course, quietly remove the plates to the side table, bring in the coffee, and place it, with the cups, on the table. Place the dessert in front of you, also the serving dishes. Serve the dessert, then pour the coffee. One can serve a small dinner quite easily without a maid, providing the menu is simple, and thought is given to the first preparation. Dinner Menus CLEAR TOMATO SOUP CROÛTONS BOILED SHOULDER OF MUTTON CAPER SAUCE BOILED RICE STEWED CELERY LETTUCE SALAD WAFERS CREAM CHEESE COFFEE BONBONS OYSTER COCKTAIL PLANKED FISH POTATO PUFF LETTUCE FRENCH DRESSING BROWN BREAD BUTTER ROQUEFORT CHEESE BENT'S WATER CRACKERS COFFEE Luncheon BOUILLON CRACKERS MASKED CHOPS PEAS ROLLS BUTTER LETTUCE SALAD WAFERS NEUFCHATEL CHEESE COFFEE BONBONS FRUIT COCKTAILS CREAMED SWEETEBREADS IN A BORDER OF RICE BREAD BUTTER LETTUCE SALAD BREAD FINGERS COCOA WHIPPED CREAM GINGER WAFERS CLAM BOUILLON LOBSTER CUTLETS CREAM SAUCE ROLLS BUTTER TOMATO MAYONNAISE WAFERS COFFEE A GROUP OF JEWISH RECIPES MATZOTH BALLS FOR SOUP 3 matzoth 1 pint of meal 6 eggs 1/2 teaspoonful of salt 6 onions 1 saltspoonful of ginger 1 saltspoonful of mace 1 saltspoonful of pepper Soak the matzoth in a little cold water, then squeeze them dry; add the meal. Put one tablespoonful of rendered suet in a frying or sauté pan, add the onion sliced, and cook until brown. Add the matzoth, the eggs well beaten and all the seasonings. Make into balls, and drop them into hot oil a half hour before serving time; cook slowly or they will fall to pieces.-?MISS COHEN. SALMON PICKLE 1 pound of salmon 2 bay leaves 1 pint of vinegar 1 saltspoonful of fennel seed 1 teaspoonful of salt 1/2 saltspoonful of cayenne Put the salmon into boiling water; add a tablespoonful of vinegar, and boil gently for twenty minutes; drain. Put the pint of vinegar and the spice in a porcelain-lined kettle; bring to boiling point. Put the salmon in a deep vegetable dish or jar, a vessel sufficiently large to hold it without breaking the fish. When the vinegar reaches the boiling point, strain it over the fish; stand aside until perfectly cold. Serve with a garnish of fennel. POTTED SALMON 6 pounds, the tail end, of salmon 1 level teaspoonful of mace 2 cloves of garlic 1 saltspoonful of cayenne 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 pound of butter Clean, wash and dry the salmon; cut it into three slices across, then split them through, and sprinkle over half the spices. Place the slices in an earthen baking dish; wash a half pound of butter, and squeeze it through your hand over the top; cover the baking dish, and bake in a moderate oven one hour and ten minutes. Lift each piece of fish from the baking dish, drain it, and put it on a flat dish. Put another half pound of butter in a saucepan, stand it in hot water and clarify it by thorough melting. Pour off the top carefully into the dish in which the fish was cooked. Pound the salmon in a wooden mortar or bowl with a pestle, taking out the bones as they appear. Add the remaining spices, and garlic, peeled and mashed. Add a half pint of clarified butter and the liquor from the bottom of the pan. When thoroughly mixed, pack into jars, cover the top with butter or paraffin, and stand at once in a cold place. This may be used after twenty-four hours, and will keep in a cold, place for a month.?-MISS COHEN. STEWED FISH 2 rock or six pounds of cod 1 saltspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of mace 1 quart of water 15 eggs 1 tablespoonful of marjoram 6 good-sized onions 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger 1 matza 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley 10 lemons Clean the fish, wash, and cut into slices crosswise. Place half the fish in a stewing pan. Peel, cover the onions with boiling water and boil until tender. Drain, cut them into slices, and add them to the fish. Add the salt, pepper, half the mace and half the ginger. Cover with the quart of water, boil fifteen minutes, and skim. Remove the skin and bones from the uncooked portion of fish, and chop it very fine. Add the cod liver or two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the matza, rolled and sifted. Add five eggs well beaten, one onion grated, the parsley chopped fine, the marjoram and the remaining mace and ginger an extra saltspoonful of pepper and a level teaspoonful of salt. Mix thoroughly with the eggs, and make into balls the size of English walnuts. Drop them into the saucepan with the stewing fish, cover closely and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Take from the fire, remove the balls and the slices of fish. When the liquor is slightly cool, stir in carefully ten eggs, well beaten; stir very slowly over hot water; be careful, as this easily curdles. When the consistency of mayonnaise dressing, take from the fire, add an extra tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, and stand at once on the ice. When the fish and sauce are cold, arrange the pieces of fish on a flat dish, grouping the balls over neatly. Pour over the sauce. Be sure that each piece is carefully covered. Garnish with quarters of lemons and large bunches of parsley. Serve extra sauce in a boat. A recipe of Mrs. Henry Cohen's?-the recipe given and the dish made for me by Miss Katharine Cohen. It was sightly and very good. STEWED FISH, HOT 1 pound of salmon 1 pound of halibut 1/2 teaspoonful of whole pepper corns 1 lemon 4eggs 1 bay leaf 1 large onion 4 whole cloves 1 saltspooonful of salt 3 matzoth Cut the fish into squares of one inch. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with one pint of cold water, the bay leaf, the onion, sliced, cloves and pepper corns. Cover, and simmer gently a half hour. Put the squares of fish over the top, squeeze over the juice of the lemon, and sprinkle with the salt. Cover and simmer again twenty minutes. Lift each piece of fish carefully on a fish dish or platter. Strain the liquor, which should now measure a full pint. Roll the matzoth, add to the liquor, boil a moment, and pour, while hot, into the eggs well beaten. Stir the mixture for a moment over the fire until it thickens, then pour it over the fish, garnish with large bunches of parsley, and send at once to the table. FISH PATTIE 2 pounds of halibut 1 clove of garlic 24 Jordan almonds 4 whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of tarragon leaves Juice of four lemons 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of cayenne 1 bay leaf 4 onions 1 quart of water 6 eggs Trim the halibut, remove the bone, and chop the fish very fine. Peel and cut the garlic into slices, mash and add it to the fish. Blanch the almonds, chop them very fine; add them, the juice of two lemons, the salt, the cayenne, to the chopped onion; mix thoroughly, and form into balls the size of an English walnut. Put the trimmings of the fish into a saucepan with the cloves, bay leaf, tarragon, the onions, sliced, and the pepper. Cover, and simmer thirty minutes. Add the balls, cover the saucepan, and simmer gently thirty minutes longer. Lift the balls with a skimmer, put them into a platter or square vegetable dish. Stand the liquor over the fire, bring to boiling point and pour, while hot, into the well beaten eggs. Stir over the fire or hot water, until the sauce is the consistency of mayonnaise dressing. Take from the fire, add the juice of two lemons, pour over the fish, garnish with large bunches of parsley, and send at once to the table. A family recipe given me by Miss Cohen. APPLE STEPHON 1 pound of finely chopped suet 1 pound of apples, sliced 1/2 pound of orange and lemon peel, chipped 1 cupful of brown sugar 1 saltspoonful of cinnamon 2 pounds of flour 1/2 pound of currants 1/2 pound of shredded citron 1 gill of ale 1 saltspoonful of ground cloves 3 lemons Mix the suet with the flour, add sufficient ice water to make a paste that is not too wet. Roll into a sheet one inch thick. Grease a shallow baking pan with melted suet, then sprinkle over two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Place the crust in the bottom of the pan, put over the top the apples, currants, lemon and orange peel, and citron, thoroughly mixed. Put over the top the sugar mixed with the spices, squeeze over the juice of the lemons, and sprinkle over the ale. Now cover with another thin layer of paste, dust thickly with sugar, and bake in a moderate oven four hours. Serve with sauce. BLANC MANGE 3 ounces of isinglass 1 pint of milk 1 teaspoonful of almond flavoring 1 1/2 cupfuls of cream 1/4 pound of Jordan almonds 1/2 cupful of sugar 2 tablespoonfuls of Noyeau Cover the isinglass with the milk, stand it aside for fifteen minutes, then heat in a double boiler until thoroughly dissolved. Add the almonds, blanched and chopped very fine, and the sugar; take from the fire, and add the cream. Strain; add the noyeau, turn at once into a mold, and stand aside to harden. Serve with plain or whipped cream. WAVERLY COLLARD BEEF Corn a six-pound piece of the thick part of the brisket by keeping it in a brine strong enough to float an egg, adding a heaping teaspoonful of saltpetre, one of brown sugar, and a saltspoonful of red pepper. Leave it in five or six days, in summer; eight or ten, in winter. Use an earthen crock, and turn the meat every two or three days. Grate two large carrots, a good sized stick of horseradish, and chop fine a good sized bunch of parsley; mix all together, and spread a thick layer on the corned beef, keeping it well to the middle, as it presses out when you roll; if your meat is not long, and difficult to roll nicely, cut a few pockets in it, and fill with the dressing; then roll very tightly, fastening with skewers and binding with strong string round and round. Any of the dressing that has squeezed out, press back into the open ends of the roll (the rolling and tying is comfortably done on a galvanized tray); remove the skewers, then tie up in cheese cloth, cover it with cold water, bring slowly to a simmer and let it cook at this point (180° Fahr.) four hours. Remove the cheese cloth, put the meat on a tray, place a heavy weight on it and leave it so over night. Cut off the string. Serve cold, cutting thin slices off the end, showing the yellow, white and green dressing. This makes a very handsome dish; it will keep for a week. MATZOTH PUDDING 4 matzoth 1/2 pound of stoned raisins 1/2 pound of sultanas 1/2 pound of currants 1/4 pound of citron 1 small piece of candied lemon peel A pinch of ground cinnamon Cloves Nutmeg 1 cupful of sugar 6 eggs 1/2 pound of chopped suet Chop the suet very fine, removing any shreds. If rum is liked, flavor with one-half tumbler of Jamaica rum, and make a rum sauce for dressing. Beat eggs and sugar well together, add the fruit and then the matzoths, which have been well squeezed out of the water; be careful to have them without any lumps; add spices and lastly rum; do not put in all the liquor, as it may moisten it too much; add by degrees. This pudding can be boiled or baked; if boiled in a bag, be sure to place a saucer at the bottom of the pot to keep it from sticking fast, and put a little salt in the water. Boil about three hours. Should the water boil away, add only boiling water; cold water will make the pudding break. SOUP BALLS Soak about six matzoths in cold water. Place on the fire in a frying pan a little suet, and when boiling hot, put in an onion chopped very fine. Drain off the matzoths (do not mash them or they will be heavy), and put them in the frying pan; keep stirring for a few minutes. This does not need cooking, only to dry off the matzoths. Have about three tablespoon-fuls of finely chopped parsley, and after placing the matzoths in a bowl, stir in the parsley with a fork; add an egg, season with red pepper, salt, and a little bit of ginger. Should the mixture be too moist, add a little matzoth meal; make it sufficiently dry to roll into balls about the size of a large walnut, but they must not be too stiff, just enough so to be able to handle them. Keep your hands slightly moistened; the balls will not stick then. These balls can be used in a clear beef soup or chicken soup, and should be laid in the soup carefully, and cooked gently about ten minutes before serving. OKRA SOUP 2 pound pieces of shin or soup meat 1/4 peck of okra 4 large tomatoes 1 large onion 3 tablespoonfuls of rice 1/2 pint of lima bean s 3 ears of corn cut from the cob 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley 2 pieces of celery Season with red peppers and salt. Put the meat on the fire in about two quarts of cold water, and after skimming put in the vegetables, except the lima bean s and corn. Have the vegetables cut very fine. Cook slowly about four hours. The lima bean s should be put in about one hour before serving, the corn only ten minutes, and the chopped parsley just before serving. This soup is very good without the celery, corn and lima bean s. SPANISH RICE Joint one stewing chicken, put in pot with just enough water to keep it from burning; season highly with onion, red pepper and salt. Let it simmer one hour; add a can of tomatoes, and let it cook slowly another hour; if the tomatoes are very acid, add a teaspoonful of sugar and a pinch of soda; now add a cup of rice, and let it all cook slowly about three-quarters to one hour longer, or until the rice and chicken are thoroughly tender; add a bunch of parsley, chopped fine. After the rice is added, yon must watch closely to see that it does not burn. Serve on a platter with chicken in the middle and the rice around it. If properly cooked and highly seasoned, this is a very delicious dish. STEWED BEEF AND beans (Sweet and Sour) Two pounds of brisket, or any part that is fat. Prepare two quarts of beans, string, snap short in the usual way as for boiling, and place in the pot with the meat, with barely enough water to cover; season with onion, salt and red pepper; simmer slowly for three or four hours, or until meat and beans are very tender. Fifteen minutes before serving, add one tablespoonful of sugar and two of vinegar; the exact proportions of sugar and vinegar depend on the strength of the vinegar. Serve on a platter, with beans around the meat. PASSOVER RAISIN WINE Take two pounds large bunch raisins, chop them up a little, put them in a stone crock, and pour over four quarts of boiling water, adding half a lemon, cut in thin slices; cover the vessel, and let it stand a few days, stirring every day. Strain through a cloth, and then strain again through a fine cloth or bag; bottle, and set in a cool place. MATZOTH SPONGE CAKE 10 eggs 1 pound of sugar 1 cupful of matzoth meal Grated rind and juice of one lemon Beat the yolks with the sugar until very light, then add the lemon peel and juice, and the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten stiff; then sift in slowly the matzoth meal; beat thoroughly, and bake in a slow oven. SALT WATER CUCUMBERS 1 gallon of water 1/2 teaspoonful of red pepper 5 heaping tablespoonfuls of salt 50 grape leaves 12 cucumbers Put the water, salt and pepper in a two-gallon deep earthen jar, and allow it to stand one hour until salt is thoroughly dissolved. Wash your cucumbers, which must be of medium size and not thick, and put them in the solution. Wash the grape leaves and put them on top. Select a flat stone or any suitable weight, and place it on top of the leaves so that the cucumbers are kept well below the top of the water. If they get to the top they will spoil. Throw away the old leaves every few days, putting fresh ones on; keep the jar out of the sun, and in a week they are ready to eat; by using new leaves often they will keep about ten days. Place on ice an hour before serving, and cut in quarters lengthwise. IMPERNARDA 3 quarts of Potatoes 1 pound of porgies or other cheap fish Red pepper and salt 1 pint bottle of tomato catsup (not sweetened) 1 good-sized onion Butter, the size of an egg Take a gallon size, deep, earthenware, fire-proof crock. Pare and slice your potatoes a quarter of an inch thick; put in the crock a layer of potatoes, a couple of pieces of fish, and some onion; sprinkle freely with salt, red pepper and catsup; now another layer of potatoes, and so on until the crock is full; lay the butter on top in small pieces. Pour a large cup of cold water in around the edges so as not to disturb the dressing; put on top an old plate as a cover, and put it in a moderate oven, and bake six or eight hours, or until the potatoes are thoroughly done, and the fish cooked all to pieces. Use plenty of red pepper, as it is intended to be a highly seasoned dish. Serve hot from the dish it is baked in. What is left over, warm up for another meal in a frying pan, adding a little water if it is too dry; there should be considerable sauce with it. WHITE STEWED FISH Cut into convenient sized pieces for serving, one pound of halibut or rock fish (striped bass ). Sprinkle both sides with salt; chop fine a medium-sized onion, and cook it three minutes in a piece of butter the size of an egg; add a scant pint of cold water; season with red pepper and a little ground mace. Lay in the fish, and boil gently ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs stiff; stir in the juice of one large lemon. Carefully take the fish out with a skimmer and lay on the dish you serve it from. Pour the gravy slowly into the egg and lemon, stirring all the time; now pour all back into the kettle, and put on the fire and stir until it thickens like custard. Add more salt if needed. If it will not thicken, add a scant teaspoonful of cornstarch. Take from the fire and stir in some chopped parsley; pour over the fish and serve cold. A GROUP OF SPANISH RECIPES TAMALES Singe, draw and truss a three-pound chicken; cook slowly, in sufficient water to cover, until tender, adding salt when partly done. Open six large red chillies; wash, rejecting the seeds, cut into halves, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until perfectly soft. Press them through a sieve sufficiently fine to reject the skins. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter or olive oil in a frying pan; add one or two medium-sized onions chopped fine; stir until the onion is slightly browned; add the chilli pulp and a half cup of the water in which the chicken was boiled; cover the pan closely; push it back where it will cook slowly fifteen minutes. Put into a bowl one quart of Southern corn meal; pour over sufficient water in which the chicken was boiled to make a dryish paste; work this with the hand until it becomes soft but not wet. Have ready the corn husks, which must be soaked and pliable. Put down the centre of a wide husk a strip of the corn meal paste; chop the cooked chicken, add the chilli mixture, put a layer down the centre of the corn meal in each husk; roll over the husks, fold in the ends and tie them with narrow strips of husks. The corn meal must entirely surround the chicken mixture. It is always wise to use wide husks to make sure that they are well wrapped. Put the bones back into the liquor in which the chicken was cooked, put the tamales over the top of the bones, taking care that they do not touch the water; sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt, cover the boiler and cook continuously for one hour, being very careful that the water does not boil over the tamales. Serve hot. MEXICAN TAMALES For these use either cooked beef or chicken. Wash, split into halves and remove the seeds from one dozen red chillies; chop them very fine or put them through a meat grinder Peel cut into halves and squeeze the seeds from six large tomatoes add the chillies and a level teaspoonful of salt. Cook slowly a half hour. Put one quart of corn meal into a bowl, and add sufficient of the water in which the chicken was boiled to scald and just moisten; cover and let stand for thirty minutes. Now put a strip down the centre of your moistened corn husk; mix the chicken, chopped very fine, with tomato and chilli; put two tablespoonfuls down the centre on top of the corn meal, and on this put about twelve stoned raisins; roll over the husks so that the corn meal will entirely cover the chicken; turn up the ends, and tie them carefully. Put the bones of the chicken back into the water in which it was boiled; put the tamales over the top, and cook slowly for one and a half hours. Cut the tamales into halves, put on a hot platter, and send at once to the table. CHILE CON-CANA Prepare the chillies in precisely the same way as for tamales. After they have been pressed through a sieve, add to them a half pint of thick, strained tomato, one large onion, a quarter teaspoonful of salt; cover and place on the back part of the stove, where they will cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Cut the dark meat of a boiled or roasted chicken into half-inch cubes; put them into the saucepan and cover with the sauce; stand over hot water for thirty minutes until the chicken has partially absorbed the sauce. Serve with rice. Blocks of veal are sometimes cooked slowly in the sauce for one and a half hours. ENCHILADES This is a typical Spanish dish, and is made in two ways; in Mexico the paste is made from corn meal, while in Spain they prefer the ordinary thin, French pan-cake batter. Boil a chicken as directed for tamales. The white meat may be used for another dish. Chop the dark meat rather fine; add to it two tablespoonfuls of chilli pulp that has been prepared the same as for tamales. Beat four eggs, without separating, until light, add one pint of milk; pour this carefully into four table-spoonfuls of flour; strain through a sieve. Put four tablespoonfuls of olive oil in a sauté pan; when hot put in six tablespoonfuls of the batter; shake, and when "set," which will take but a moment, put at one side two tablespoonfuls of chicken mixture; roll up the pan-cake, and dish on a heated platter. Continue until you have a row down the centre of the platter. Pour over chilli sauce, spread on each a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan, and send at once to the table. These may be flavored with onion or garlic. JAMBOLAYA Singe, draw and cut the fowl the same as for fricassee; arrange the pieces in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil rapidly for five minutes; then draw the pan to a moderate fire, to simmer for one hour. Sprinkle over a half pint of finely chopped, cold cooked salted tongue, a half cup of well-washed rice, a saltspoonful of white pepper, or better still, three chillies that have been boiled until tender and pressed through a sieve; cover, and cook slowly for thirty minutes until the rice is tender and has absorbed all the water; watch carefully, as it will scorch easily. Strain over a half pint of tomato, and add one tablespoonful of butter. Arrange the chicken in the centre of the dish, put the rice around and pour over the sauce. CASUELA Singe, draw and cut up a chicken as for fricassee; put two tablespoonfuls of suet, oil or lard, into a saucepan; add one large onion chopped fine, two red chillies; stir and cook for ten minutes. Add the chicken, and cook until each piece of chicken is slightly browned; then add sufficient boiling water to just cover the chicken; simmer slowly until the chicken is tender, about one hour. Pare three good potatoes and cut them into dice; add them to the chicken and boil fifteen minutes longer. Boil one potato in another saucepan, and mash it through a sieve; add to it while hot the yolks of three eggs, one tablespoonful of vinegar, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Put this into the soup tureen. With a skimmer take the potatoes from the casuela, then lift out the pieces of chicken Strain the liquor from the saucepan into the tureen, mix, add the chicken and potato blocks and send at once to the table. This takes the place of both soup and meat. Serve with it hot corn wafer bread or plain boiled rice. CHARQUICAN 1 dozen tomatoes 1 onion chopped fine 1 clove of garlic mashed 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 pint of cold meat Put all together and stir over the fire until the mixture boils; add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; chop sufficient cold., cooked chicken or other meat to make one pint; add to it the tomato and push on the back part of the stove, where it will simmer gently, while you pare and cut into dice two good-sized potatoes, and cut the corn from three large ears; add the potatoes to the tomato, cook ten minutes, add the corn, and cook five minutes longer. Serve at once in a heated dish. This makes an exceedingly nice supper dish, and takes the place of both vegetables and meat. CATCAHIS 2 small crooked-neck squash 6 good-sized tomatoes 1 large or two small onions 1 chilli 2 tablespoonfuls of dripping or butter Cut the squash into halves and remove the seeds. Peel the tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds, and chop them with the onion and pepper. Fill this into the spaces in the squash, from which you have taken the seeds. Put the dripping into a frying pan, put in the squash, skin side down, and fry them until they are slightly brown. Add a half pint of water, a slice of onion., a level teaspoonful of salt; cover and bake slowly for one hour; then remove the cover, baste the squash, and cook for thirty minutes longer. Dish, lifting carefully so as not to break the skin. FRIJOLES Wash and soak for one hour one pint of Mexican brown beans; drain off this water, cover with boiling water and cook slowly for one hour, or until the beans are rather tender, but not soft; drain. Put in a frying pan or saucepan two tablespoonfuls of olive oil or suet; when hot, add the beans and stir until they are carefully browned. Have ready six red chillies that have been boiled soft and pressed through a sieve; add these to the frijoles, add a palatable seasoning of salt, one chopped green pepper and a half pint of good stock, and the same of thick stewed strained tomato; cover, and stew slowly for thirty minutes. The beans must be whole, but tender, and dry to the very centre. STEWED GREEN TOMATOES Wash and slice six large green tomatoes, the same number of onions; take the seeds from three large chillies, either green or red, and cut them also into slices. Put four tablespoonfuls of suet, lard or oil into a saucepan, throw in the tomatoes, stir a moment until they are slightly browned; then add one-half pint of stock or water, cover and cook slowly for one hour; add a level teaspoonful of salt, and they are ready to serve. This is frequently served in a border of rice, which gives both green and starchy vegetables in one dish. A GROUP OF CREOLE RECIPES In this group will be found a number of well known New Orleans dishes. I have selected from a large number those not in common use. GUMBO FILéE SOUP 1 fowl 50 oysters 2 onions 1/4 pound of lean ham 1 quart of okra 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1 tablespoonful of gumbo filée powder Singe, clean and cut the chicken as for fricassee; wash the okra and cut into thin slices; put it in a saucepan with a pint of water and cook until tender. While this is cooking, prepare the chicken. Chop the ham. Put the oil into a sauté or frying pan, add the onion sliced, and cook until browned. Put the mixture into a saucepan, add the chicken and ham; stir over the fire until the chicken is slightly browned; then add: one pint of boiling water. Cover, and simmer gently until the chicken is perfectly tender. At serving time mix the gumbo (okra) with the chicken, add the oysters, drained, and washed, and bring quickly to boiling point. Moisten the filée powder in a little of the soup, then add it to the whole; stir a moment, and serve at once. The soup must not boil after the powder is added. BOUILLABAISSE 1 rock fish 1/4 cup of olive oil 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of pepper 1 bay leaf 1 pint of white wine 1 large onion 3 cloves of garlic 2 good-sized tomatoes 1 teaspoonful of powdered thyme 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley A dash of cayenne Peel the onion and garlic, and cut them into thin slices; put the oil into a large saucepan, when hot add the onion and garlic, and stir and cook until browned; then add the fish, cut into slices crosswise. Scald the tomatoes, peel, and cut them into halves; press out the seeds, and cut the flesh of the tomatoes into small pieces. Put them over the fish, pour over the wine, and add sufficient water to just cover the fish. Cover the saucepan, put over a quick fire, and boil thirty minutes. While this is boiling, remove the crusts from six thick slices of bread; toast them in the oven until crisp and brown. Then put them into a deep vegetable dish. Remove the fish with the skimmer and arrange it neatly in the centre of a platter; drain a portion of the broth over the bread, and the balance over the fish. Garnish with chopped parsley, and send to the table. OYSTER GUMBO 100 oysters 1 Spanish onion 1 sweet chilli 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of filée Wash and drain the oysters; put the oil and the onion into a saucepan, and shake until the onion is thoroughly cooked and slightly browned. Add the flour, and the red pepper peeled and chopped fine; cover the saucepan for fifteen minutes; then add the oysters, bring quickly to boiling point, add the filée, and turn them at once into the soup tureen. Serve with carefully boiled rice. SHRIMP GUMBO 1 pint of shrimps 1 red sweet chilli 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley 1 level teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1/4 pound of salt cod 1 tablespoonful of flour Put the oil, with the onion and pepper chopped fine, into a saucepan. Cover, and cook slowly for a half hour. Add the okra washed and sliced, the shrimps and one pint of water. Cover and cook slowly for a half hour. While these are cooking wash and pick apart the codfish. Cover it with cold water, bring to boiling point; drain, cover again with cold water, bring to boiling point, and squeeze perfectly dry. Chop it fine and sprinkle it over the top of the shrimps; add the salt. Moisten the flour in a little cold water, add to it the gumbo, stir carefully, bring to boiling point, and, if you like, add a tablespoonful of butter, and serve at once. JAMBALAYA FOWL 1 fowl 1/2 pint of rice 1/4 pound of lean ham 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Singe, clean and cut the fowl as for fricassee; put it into a stew pan; add one quart of boiling water; cover, and cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Wash the rice, sprinkle it over the top of the chicken, then the salt and the ham chopped fine. Cover the saucepan, and cook slowly until the rice swells and absorbs the water, about a half hour. Dish the chicken in the middle of a platter, put over carefully the rice, and send at once to the table. PETIT BRULé Select perfectly smooth, thick golden skinned oranges; cut through the skin at what might be called the equator around the orange; then with a spoon-handle loosen the skin from the orange almost to the end, and turn it wrong side out, leaving a cup. Now cut the orange from the cup, leaving the half of the orange with a cup on top. Place the orange into a dainty plate or saucer; into the cup put one whole clove, a tiny bit of bay leaf, a tiny stick of cinnamon, one lump of cut sugar, and pour over two tablespoonfuls of the best brandy. Bring this to the table with the after dinner coffee and place one in front of each guest. Touch a match to the brandy, and allow each person to baste the sugar until the alcohol has burned away. Put the remaining contents into the coffee. The burning of the brandy in the orange skins with the spices, gives the most delicious flavor. A CREOLE EVENING Decorate the room with bright colored flowers, largely red and yellow. Have everything as bright and cheerful as possible. If you have a highly polished table, use white drawn work mats, otherwise have the table covered with a spotless white cloth. In the centre have a large bunch of flowers in a silver bowl or vase. At one end of the table arrange the coffee service, at the other the salad. Have napkins and plates grouped with the necessary silver on a side table. On a small table in one corner of the dining-room, place the punch bowl handsomely garnished with ferns, and the punch glasses around the bowl. Fill the bowl half full of parlor punch. The coffee must be exceedingly black, and served with hot milk and cream. On the table have a plate of sweet pickles, one of olives, and several of small cakes. MENU Chicken Salad Bread and Butter Coffee Biscuit Glacé Macaroons Pecan Cakes Sweet Pickled Figs PECAN CAKE 1/4 pound of butter 1 1/2 cups of powdered sugar 1/2 teaspoonful of soda 1 rounding teaspoonful of cream of tartar 2 eggs 1/2 cup of milk 1 pint of pastry flour 1/2 pound of pecans, chopped fine Beat the butter to a cream, add gradually the sugar, then the yolks of the eggs, and beat until very light. Measure the milk, and mix the cream of tartar and soda; add them to the flour, and sift three times. Add a little of the milk to a little of the flour, beating all the while until the ingredients are in; at last stir in the eggs. Bake in small gem pans or in one shallow baking pan. Ice with royal icing, both chocolate and white. SWEET PICKLED FIGS 2 quarts of figs I quart of vinegar 1 teaspoonful of mace 1 pint of sugar 1 level tablespoonful of ground cinnamon 1 teaspoonful of cloves Mix the spices, and tie them into two small pieces of cheese cloth. Put a layer of figs into a stone jar, then a layer of salt, another layer of figs, and so continue until they are all covered; pour over one quart of water, cover, and stand aside over night. Next morning, wash the figs and put them into clear water for two hours. Drain, cover with boiling water, and let them stand until they are thoroughly cooled. Put the spices, vinegar and sugar into a porcelain-lined kettle, bring to boiling point and skim. Add the figs, bring quickly to just scalding point, and stand them aside. Next day reheat them, put them at once into jars, seal and stand aside. PARLOR PUNCH 2 tablespoonfuls of English breakfast tea 12 lemons 1 gill of Jamaica rum 2 pounds of sugar 1/2 pint of raspberry syrup Grate the yellow rind from three lemons into the sugar; add one quart of water, and boil for fifteen minutes after the syrup begins to boil. Strain, and when cool, add the juice of all the lemons. Pour a pint of boiling water over the tea, and cover it for a half hour. Strain into the sugar mixture; cover the tea with another pint of water, and cover for another half hour, and strain this also into the sugar mixture. Cover, and stand aside over night. At serving time, add the raspberry syrup, the Jamaica rum, and one quart of finely shaved ice. This may be thinned with plain or Apollinaris water. This will serve twenty persons. BISCUIT GLACé Yolks of ten eggs 1 1/2 pounds of pulverized sugar 1/4 pound of stale macaroons 2 quarts of good cream 1 level tablespoonful vanilla sugar Beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar until very, very light; add the vanilla sugar, beat again, and then fold in the cream, whipped to a stiff froth. Fill this into square paper boxes, dust the tops thickly with the grated macaroons, and stand them aside into a freezing cave, or ice cream freezer, as directed for ordinary biscuit glace. Pack in salt and ice, and stand aside for one and a half to two hours. When frozen place a pretty rose or flower in the centre of each, and serve. This recipe is sufficient for twenty to twenty-four persons. A GROUP OF HAWAIIAN RECIPES SAGO SOUP Wash a quarter cupful of pearl sago through several cold waters, and cook slowly in a quart of water until the sago is transparent; then add a two-inch piece of stick cinnamon, a half cup of seeded and chopped raisins, and, just at serving time, a half pint of any fruit juice. Add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and serve. FISH WITH TOMATO For this, purchase a good white-fleshed fish weighing from two and a half to three pounds. Wash and dry it, and dust with salt and pepper; brown quickly on both sides in very hot oil; run it into a hot oven and cook for thirty minutes, turning it once or twice. Have enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. While this is cooking, put into a saucepan four good-sized tomatoes that have been peeled, cut into halves and the seeds squeezed out. Add a grated onion, a clove of garlic, four whole cloves and a bay leaf. Cook for five minutes, and press through a sieve. Add a level teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper and a tablespoonful of butter; dish the fish, pour over the tomato sauce, and send at once to the table. PICKED FISH Steam carefully any good white-fleshed fish. When done remove the skin, pick the fish apart in large flakes. Put a pint of milk into a double boiler and add to it, when hot, two rounding tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed with the same quantity of flour. Stir until the milk is smooth and rather thick. Rub sufficient thyme from a bunch to make a tablespoonful. Chop fine two good-sized onions and two chillies; put a layer of the cream sauce in the bottom of a baking dish, then a layer of the fish, a sprinkling of onion, chilli and thyme; then another layer of sauce, and so continue until you have used all the material, having the last layer sauce. Cover with a thick layer of bread crumbs, and sprinkle over the top four tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Bake in a quick oven a half hour. TO COOK BEEF Purchase a thick slice from the upper round; lard it thickly over one side; brush it with a mixture of one tablespoonful of olive oil and one of vinegar. Stand aside for two hours, then baste both sides with melted butter. Put it into a baking pan, run into a very quick oven, and bake until brown. Then pour over it a half pint of sweet cream, to which you have added a tablespoonful of soy. Cook slowly for one hour, basting frequently with the cream. When done dish the beef in the centre of a large platter and garnish with tiny potato croquettes. If the sauce in the pan has evaporated, add a half cup of cream and about two tablespoonfuls of stock; stir this until you have taken the entire flavor of the meat in the pan. Pour the sauce over the meat, and send to the table. BEEFSTEAK ROLLS Cut from the round very thin slices. Cut these into strips two inches wide and four inches long; dust them with a little salt, chopped chilli, chopped parsley and just a suspicion of onion. Roll them up, the size of your finger, and fasten with two small wooden skewers (tooth picks). Dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in deep, hot fat. FRICEO Purchase a pound of beef from the round; cut it into cubes of one inch, and then with a potato masher flatten each one with a hard blow. Pare and cut into slices three good-sized potatoes. Peel and cut into thin slices four good-sized onions. Put in the bottom of a baking dish a layer of potatoes, then a layer of meat and a layer of onion; dust this with a saltspoonful of white pepper and a saltspoonful of salt. Peel and cut into halves four good-sized tomatoes. Chop them rather fine, and add a layer to the dish. Cut a level tablespoonful of butter into four pieces, and put it over the tomatoes. Continue these alternations until the materials are used. Pour over the top a half cup of thick, sour cream. Cover the pudding dish or casserole mold, stand it into a pan of boiling water, and cook in the oven two hours. CURRY 1 chicken 1 large Spanish onion Clove of garlic 1 rounding tablespoonful of butter 2 "fingers" of green ginger root 1 teaspoonful of cumin seed 1 tablespoonful of curry powder 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 cocoanut Remove the shell and grate the cocoanut; put it into a bowl and pour over one pint of boiling water; when cold stir well and turn it into a cheese cloth and wring it perfectly dry. Stand the milk thus obtained aside. Add another pint of boiling water to the cocoanut fibre, wash and strain it again, then throw the fibre away. Put the butter in a saucepan, and when hot add the chicken; shake and turn until the chicken is nicely browned; then add the onion; cook five minutes; add the salt, then the ginger; cook five minutes longer; then add the garlic and cumin seed, and last the curry powder; put all these in dry. Cover with the last straining of cocoanut milk. Cover the saucepan and cook gently one hour or until the chicken is tender. Put one tablespoonful of rice flour into a bowl, add gradually, mixing all the while, the first washing of the cocoanut; add this to the chicken, cover the saucepan, simmer thirty minutes, and it is ready to serve. Pass with it boiled rice and baked bananas. POTATO AND MANGO Pare four good-sized potatoes and boil them until tender; strain, dust with salt, and shake until dry. Pare six green mangoes, slice and boil them until tender; drain. Put the slices of boiled potatoes into a saucepan with the mangoes, sprinkle over a half teaspoonful of salt, turn them into a heated dish, and pour over two tablespoonfuls of carefully melted butter. BAKED TARO Moisten the hands with good vinegar, and then scrape off the outside of the taro, throwing them at once into cold water. Dry them in a towel, and bake the same as potatoes. The very large taro may be cut into halves lengthwise. It will take one and a half hours for the baking. Eat with a little salt and butter. TARO CAKES Moisten the hands with vinegar and scrape the taro; throw into cold water, then drop them into boiling water and boil continuously until tender; strain and mash them with a potato masher, using a little hot water now and then. Mold these into balls with your hands, put them into a greased baking pan; baste with a little melted butter, and run into a quick oven to brown. BAKED BREAD FRUIT Select the fruit that is quite soft; bake it in a moderate oven for one hour. STEWED BREAD FRUIT Cut the bread fruit into small pieces; put it into a saucepan with sufficient water to prevent scorching; when tender, cover it with cocoanut milk made as directed for curry. When, hot, send to the table. Bread fruit and taro may be cooked as we cook potatoes. EGG PLANT Boil one whole egg plant for half an hour; then cut it into halves and scoop out the flesh; chop it fine, add a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion and one cupful of finely chopped chicken, tongue or veal. Put this mixture back into the egg plant shells, put them in the oven, and bake quickly a half hour. When nearly done, put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, add six tablespoonfuls of dried bread crumbs; mix them with the butter, spread them over the top of the egg plant, cook ten minutes and serve. The Spanish Americans add tomato and chilli to the stuffing. CREAM LETTUCE SAUCE TO SERVE WITH FISH Take the outside leaves from a head of lettuce; throw them into a saucepan of salted boiling water; boil ten minutes, drain, chop very fine, and press through a fine sieve. Put a tablespoonful of butter and a slice of onion into the saucepan; cook until the onion is soft; add a tablespoonful of flour, mix and add a pint of milk. Stir until boiling; add the lettuce, a half teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper and a teaspoonful of soy; strain through a fine sieve into a pot. CARROTS Wash and space young carrots; cut them into halves and dry them. Put two tablespoonfuls of olive oil into a shallow frying pan, throw in the carrots and cook until brown; then take them out. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the oil, then a half pint of water; stir until boiling, and strain over the carrots. Cook in an uncovered pan until the sauce is nearly exhausted; then add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, mixed with four of vinegar; cook until slightly reduced, and serve hot. CABBAGE Pull one head of cabbage apart into leaves; throw them in hot water, a half hour, to blanch; drain; cut out the heavy mid-ribs and chop the leaves until they are very fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter or olive oil into a saucepan, add the hashed cabbage, a saltspoonful of pepper, a half teaspoonful of salt and a cup and a half of the water, in which the cabbage was boiled; cover and cook slowly one hour. Lift the lid, and cover the top with small sausages. Cover the saucepan again, and cook a half hour. Serve the cabbage on a large platter, and put the sausages over the top and around it. FRIED BANANAS Peel and cut large bananas into slices lengthwise. Have ready a shallow pan containing just a little hot oil; throw in the slices of bananas, brown first on one side and then on the other. Serve, dusted with sugar. BAKED BANANAS Put into a baking pan large, fully ripe bananas; bake them in a quick oven until they burst. Bring to the table without removing the skin, and eat with butter and sugar. SLICED BANANAS Peel and cut into thin slices fully ripe bananas. Sprinkle them with sugar and grated nutmeg, and stand in a cool place one hour. At serving time, cover them with thick cream and send to the table. STEWED BANANAS Peel fully ripe bananas and cut them into slices; put them into a saucepan with just a little water; stir and cook until they are soft and very hot. Add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and the well-beaten whites of two eggs. Serve at once. Flavor with lemon, orange or tamarinds. SALAD OF ALLIGATOR PEAR Mash the pears, and press them in a bowl to mold or shape. Turn them out on a round dish that has been garnished with lettuce leaves. Garnish the edge of the bowl and inside of the lettuce with a goodly quantity of mayonnaise dressing, and send at once to the table. COCOANUTPUDDING 4 tablespoonfuls of pearl tapioca 1 cup of grated cocoanut 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 quart of milk 4 eggs Wash the tapioca, cover it with cold water, and let it stand over night. Next morning add to it the milk, and cook in a double boiler at least ten minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, add them to the milk and half of the cocoanut; cook for five minutes longer; take from the fire, and when cold turn into a shallow glass dish. Beat the whites of the eggs until light; add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and beat again; spread this over the top, and sprinkle over the remaining portion of the cocoanut. Put a piece of thick paper around the dish, and run it into a quick oven until slightly brown. BANANA PUDDING Slice six bananas and stew them with very little water. When done, beat them to a pulp; add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and turn them into a baking dish. Put a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour in a saucepan, mix and add a half pint of cocoanut milk; stir until boiling. Take from the fire, and when cold add the yolks of three eggs. Beat the whites to a froth, adding the custard gradually to them, beating all the while; add four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, a quarter of a grated nutmeg; pour this over the bananas and bake in a moderate oven a half hour. BANANA CAKE Beat to a cream a quarter of a cup of butter, add a half cup of sugar and one egg; when very light, stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough; roll into a thin sheet and line a square, shallow baking pan. Peel five good, ripe bananas, and chop them very fine; put them over the crust in the pan, sprinkle over a half cup of sugar, the pulp of five tamarinds soaked in a quarter of a cup of warm water; squeeze over the juice of two Japanese oranges, put over a tablespoonful of butter cut into pieces, a saltspoonful of mace, and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Grate over the top two small crackers, bake in a moderate oven a half hour, and cut into narrow strips to serve. GUAVA SOUFFLé Take a dozen ripe guavas, sweet and sour mixed; wipe with a cloth; mash and press them through a fine sieve; add one cup of powdered sugar, turn at once into punch glasses, and stand aside until very cold. Then put on top of each one a tablespoonful of meringue made by beating the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. COCOANUT DROPS Grate two good-sized cocoanuts; weigh, and to each pound allow a half pound of powdered sugar, a rounding tablespoon-ful of cornstarch or rice flour; mix the sugar and flour together, then sprinkle this into the cocoanut, work it with the hands, make into little balls, place on tins, and bake in a moderate oven until a golden brown. GUAVA JELLY Wash the guavas in cold water, cut off the dark ends of each; put them into a large kettle, adding sufficient water to prevent scorching, about one quart to each peck of fruit; cook slowly until reduced to a pulp. Take from the fire, put into bags, and drain over night. Next morning measure the juice, and to each pint allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Put this into the kettle, stand over a brisk fire, and boil rapidly, skimming almost constantly. When the juice begins to drop heavily from the spoon, almost like a jelly, add the sugar, bring again to boiling point, stirring carefully; skim and try. You will probably have at once a thick jelly. Turn quickly into glasses. Use a silver knife in removing the blossoms from the ends of the guavas. TO PRESERVE CITRON Wash and wipe the citrons; cut them into halves or quarters; remove the centre, and throw the rinds into cold water to soak for at least five days, changing the water twice a day. At the end of this time, put them into a porcelain-lined kettle and cover with cold water; boil rapidly for one hour; strain, cover with fresh boiling water and boil for another hour; then drain in a colander. To each pound allow one pound of sugar, a half cup of water; put the sugar and water into a kettle, stir until dissolved, bring to boiling point, put in the citron, and cook slowly for half an hour. Stand aside over night. Next day lift the citron carefully with a skimmer; boil down the syrup, pour it over the fruit, let stand for another day, then put into pans and stand in the sun to dry. This will take at least three or four days. Dust with granulated sugar and keep in a dry place. The left-over syrup may be used for some other purpose. TO CONSERVE PINEAPPLES WHOLE Pare the pineapples and nip out the eyes. Weigh them and allow a pound of sugar and a half cup of water to each pound of fruit; put the sugar and water in a kettle, boil and skim. Put in the pineapples whole, bring them to boiling point and cook slowly for two hours until they seem to be saturated with sugar; take them out, and dry them in the sun. Dust with granulated sugar, and roll in waxed paper to keep. Pineapples may be cut into slices, and candied in the same way. PICKLED FIGS 4 pounds of sugar 1 pint of vinegar 2 ounces of stick cinnamon1 tablespoonful of whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of black peppers (whole) Put all the ingredients into a porcelain-lined kettle, bring to boiling point, then add seven pounds of figs that have been washed and drained. Simmer gently; when the figs are tender take them out with a skimmer, and put them into glass jars. Boil down the syrup, pour it over the figs and seal. In many of the Pacific Islands, pineapples and mangoes are pickled in the same way. Mangoes should be quite green; allow for them half the quantity of vinegar and sugar, and cook the fruit a much longer time. PICKLED LEMONS OR LIMES 3 ounces of chillies 4 ounces of garlic 4 ounces of turmeric 3 ounces of green ginger Put the lemons or limes in a jar, sprinkle thickly with salt, cover and let stand for one week. Pound the garlic, chillies and turmeric together, and add the ginger sliced; add just enough vinegar to make a paste. Stuff this into the limes, tie them together, and stand them in glass or stone jars for one month, and they are ready to use. STUFFED PRUNES Mix together a cup of whole mustard, a half teaspoonful of cloves, a half cup of chopped green ginger, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and three and a half pounds of sugar. Push the stones out of seven pounds of prunes; being very careful not to tear the flesh. Fill the spaces with the mixture. Put two pounds of sugar and half a pint of vinegar into a kettle; when boiling put in the fruit; and bring again to boiling point. Lift them carefully, and put them in jars; seal. Serve with meat. CHUTNEY 2 pounds of apples 1 ounce of garlic 1/2 pound of salt 1 ounce of chillies 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 pound of 1/2 pound of green ginger root 2 pounds of layer raisins 3 pounds of sugar 1 pound of almonds or pinenuts Peel the apples, and cut them into slices; the same with the tomatoes. Mix them with all the other ingredients, cook over a slow fire until as thick as marmalade. Bottle and seal. The almonds should be blanched and pounded; the ginger root scraped and cut into thin slices; the raisins stoned and cut into halves; the garlic sliced. MANGOCHUTNEY 4 pounds of green mangoes 1 pound of almonds 1/2 pound of green ginger 1/2 pound of salt 2 pounds of raisins 2 ounces of garlic 3 pounds of brown sugar 2 ounces of chillies 1 pint of vinegar Mix the salt and sugar with the mangoes, stand them aside over night; then add all the other ingredients; put them at once into wide-mouthed bottles, and stand aside in the sunlight for two weeks. The mangoes should be peeled, skinned and grated; the almonds blanched and pounded to a paste; the ginger scraped and sliced. TAMARIND CHUTNEY This is perhaps one of the nicest of all chutneys. 1 pound of dates 1/2 pound of green ginger root 1 pound of layer raisins 2 tablespoonfuls of salt 1 pound of onion 1/4 pound of chillies 1/4 pound of brown sugar 1/2 pint of tarragon vinegar A half-pound jar or bottle of tamarinds Remove the stones from the tamarinds, chop them fine; the same with the dates; stone and cut the raisins into quarters; chop fine the onion; pound the chillies and scrape and slice the ginger. Mix all the ingredients together, bottle and seal. INDEX Acorns, 523 A Creole Evening, 688 Alaska Bake, 601 Albumin, where found, 33 Alimentary Principles, division of, 11 Alligator Pear Salad, 696 Allspice, 432 Almond, Bitter, 524 Extract, 437 Butter, 525 Custard, 561 Loaf, 616 Wafers, 525, 623 Almonds, 523 Composition of, 524 Salted, 524 Amber Jelly, 571 Analyses, Table of Comparative, of Meats, 138 Anchovy Salad, 448 Angelica, 428 Anise, 431 A Plea for a Little Dinner, 664 Apple Butter, 646 Charlotte, 592 Plain, 592 Custard, 591 Cup, 639 Cup Custards, 591 Dowdy, New, 589 Dumplings, 584 Float, 590 Gelatin, 593 Jelly, 644 Meringue, 556 Omelet, 588 Pone, 588 Pudding, Steamed, 589 Rice Pudding, 592 Sago, 588 Salad, 448 Sauce, 544 Sauce, Whole, 544 Scallop, 593 Slump, 578 Snow, 590 Stephon, 673 Apple Tapioca, 588 Tart, English, 554 Turnover, 590 Apples, 542 a l'Imperatrice, 585 Baked, 543 Farmhouse, 590 Panned Baked, 543 Punch, 639 Scalloped, 589 Sliced for Breakfast, 543 Stewed, 544 With Oatmeal, 480 With Rice, 589 Artichoke, Botanical Family, 281 Globe or French, 364 Jerusalem, 366 Salad, 448 Soup, 70 Artichokes, French, Baked, 365 Boiled, 364 Bottoms or Chokes 365 Stuffed, 364 Jerusalem, à la Vinai- grette, 367 Pickled, 367 With Brown Sauce, 366 With Cream Sauce, 366 Artichokes, Mock, 420 Arrowroot 298 Botanical Family, 282 Gruel, 298 Gruel, No. 2, 298 Porridge, 299 Asparagus, 367 à la Hollandaise, 369 Boiled, 368 in Bread Boat, 369 Breaded, 370 Cold, 370 Salad, 449 Soup, Cream of, 67 Stewed, 368 Tips, 368 To Can, 650 Aspic Mayonnaise, 444 Aubergines, 395 Bacon, Boiled, 182 Breakfast, 182 Rolled, 183 Baked Apples, 543 Beans, 329 Beans with Tomato Sauce, 331 Ham 183 Ham, to Serve Cold, 183 Oysters, 128 Potatoes, 285 Sweetbreads, 180 Bakewell Pudding, 579 Baking, 44 With Coal Stoves, 18 With Gas, 18 With Oil, 18 With Wood, 18 Baking Powder Breads, 507 Cream of Tartar, 509 Tartaric Acid, 509 Baking Powders, Good, 507 To make, 509 Banana Cake, 697 Family, 282 Pudding, 697 Souffle, 549 Bananas, Baked, 549, 696 Fried, 696 Stewed, 696 Barley, 482 Botanical Family, 282 Bread, 499 Broth, 85 Flakes, 482 Soup, 59 Water, 482 Basil, Sweet, 430 Batter Pudding, 572 Bavarian Cream Chocolate, 566 Coffee, 566 Creams, 566 Bay Leaves, 282, 429 Bean, Tonka, 436 Bean, Carob, 360 Jam, 360 Souffle, 360 Bean Balls, 329 Lima, Salad, 449 Souffle, 334 Bean Souffle, 332 Beans, Botanical Family, 281 Composition of, 327 Food Value of, 323 Beans, Black, 334 Butter, 322 Dried, 328 Kidney, 327 Boiled, 327 With Brown Sauce, 328 Beans, Lima, 332, 651 à la Poulette, 333 Boiled, 332 Cakes, 333 Canned, 651 Dried, 333 Mexican, Red, 335 Soy, 334 Spanish, Red, 328 Stewed, 328 With Brown Sauce, 331 String, German Fashion, 323 Salad, 449 Stewed, 321 To Can, 651 With Cream Sauce, 222 Turtle, 334 White, Stewed, 330 Windsor, 327 With Beef, 667 Beech Nuts, 525 Beef, Best Pieces for Different Dishes, 142 Care of, 140 Composition of, 137 Fat in, 137 How to Select, 140 Nutrition of, 137 When in Season, 26 Beef, 137 Methods of Cooking, 141 à la Mode, 147 And Potato Roll, Canne- lon, 157 Baked, 145 Boiled, 146 Braised, 147 Ribs of, 158 Brown Stew, 161 With Beans, 677 Hawaiian Style, 692 Loaf, 161 Minced, Spanish Style, 157 Olives, 156 Pats in a Chafing Dish, 160 Salad, 457 Salad, No. 2, 458 To Roast, 143 In a Gauze Door Oven, 145 Under the Gas, 144 Waverly Collard, 674 Beef, How to Carve à la Mode, 232 Fillet, 231 Ribs, 231 Ribs, Boned, 232 Sirloin Roast, 231 Steak, 232 Beef, How to Serve à la Mode, 242 Boiled, 243 Brown Stew, 243 Cold, 246 Collard, 246 Corned, 243 Creamed Dried, 243 Fillet, 242 Pot Roast, 242 Rib Roast, 242 Sirloin Roast, 242 Steak, 242 Beef-steak à la Bordelaise, 151 Broiled, 148 In an Oil Stove, 149 Over Coal or Wood, 148 Under Gas, 148 Pie, 153 Rolled, 692 To Carve, 232 Round, 232 Sirloin Broiled, 149 To Carve, 232 To Serve, 242 Beefsteak Mushroom, 346 Sauce, 346 Beef's Heart, To Carve, 223 To Serve, 243 Tongue, To Carve, 233 To Serve, 243 Beet Salad, 449 Soup, Cream of, 73 Tops, 358 Beets Botanical Family of, 282 Composition of, 358 Beets, Boiled, 358 Canned, To Cook, 359 Stewed, 359 To Can, 651 To Pickle, 359 With Cream Sauce, 359 Belgian Hare, 208 Cooked like Chicken, 208 Fricassee, with what Served, 245 Panned, with what Served, 245 With what Served, 245 Beverages, 634 Birds, To Carve, 237 To Cook, 237 Biscuit Glace, 639 Biscuits Graham, 510 Maryland, 518 Milk, 509 Rye, 510 Sponge, 518 Biscuits, Virginia, 519 Whole Wheat, 510 Bisque of Crab, 90 of Lobster, 89 à la Colbert, 90 Bitter Almond, 437 Black Bean Soup, 63 Black Beans, 334 Blackberry Sago, 585 Sherbet, 603 Short Cake, 576 Slump, 578 Black Pepper, 434 Blanc Mange, 560 Chocolate, 583 Jewish, 674 Blanquette of Calves' Hearts, 176 of Mutton, 169 Blue Fish, Baked, 103 Boiled Beef, 146 Eggs, Hard, 251 Eggs, Soft, 251 Boiling, 41 Bone Stock, 51 Boned Chicken, To Carve, 237 Boudins of Chicken, with what Served, 241 Bouillabaisse, 86 Creole, 685 Bouillon, 52 Chicken, 53 Clam, 88 Court, 87 Oyster, 89 Vegetable, 65 Braised Beef, 147 Ribs of Beef, 158 Braising, 44 Brandy Jelly, 598 Sauce, 607 Brazil Nuts, 526 Bread, 487 Baking, 492 Chemistry of, 491 Diseases of, 493 Kneading of, 491 Liquids for, 489 Manipulations of, 491 Molding of, 492 Salt in, 490 To Keep, 493 Bread, Barley, 499 Cassava, 298 Chestnut Griddle, 529 Corn, Batter, 514 Loaf, 497 Mississippi, 514 German Potato, 499 Bread, Gluten, 497 Graham, 496 Grits, 297 Mush, 516 Oatmeal, 498 Mush, 517 Plain Short, 520 Rye, 498 Scotch Short, 520 Salt-rising, Unwholesome, 490 Sticks, 501 Sour Milk, 514 Twentieth Century, 495 Unleaven, 518 White, 496 Whole Wheat, 495 Wafer, 520 Bread Fingers, 506 Bread, Pulled, 506 Bread, Second Cooking of, 505 Bread Custard, 562 Pudding, 574 English, 577 Breads, Baking Powder, 507 Chestnut, 527 Egg, 515 Nut, 541 Small, 501 Bread Fruit, Baked, 694 Stewed, 694 Breakfast Bacon, 182 Cereals, 476 Foods, Cooked, 486 Rolls, 503 Bride's Cake, 617 Brinjal, 395 Brioche, 573 Broiled Bacon, 182 Chops, 167 Fish, 105 Lobster, 118 Oysters, Philadelphia, 127-128 Sweetbreads, 180 Broiling, 45 Broth, Barley, 85 Brown, 67 Chicken, 82 Dumpling, 78 Scotch Mutton, 85 Brown Broth, 67 Stew of Beef, 161 Brussels Sprouts, 383 Boiled, 383 With Butter, 383 With Cream, 383 Buckwheat, Botanical Family of, 282 Burnt Sugar Sauce, 607 Butter Beans, 322 Butter, Care of, 268 Fats, 261 How to Color, 269 Making, 268 To Wash, 269 Butters, Fruit Apple, 646 Peach, 646 Nut Almond, 525 Brazil, 526 Peanut, 535 Buttermilk, 260 Butternuts, White Walnuts, 533 Butter Scotch, 631 Cabbage Tribe, 370 Food Value of, 370 Cabbage, au Gratin, 372 Boiled, 371 Cold Slaw, 375 Fingers, Stuffed, 378 German Fashion, 375 Sour, 374 Hawaiian, 695 Ladies', 371 Rolls, 373 Russian Fashion, 372 Salad, 450 Sauerkraut, 376 Scalloped, 372 Sour Cream Slaw, 376 Stewed, 371 Cabbage. Red, 377 Dutch Fashion, 377 German Style, 377 Cabbage Savoy, 378 Stuffed, 379 Cafe Frappe, 603 Parfait, 604 Cake Baking, Rules for, 19, 614 Making. Rules for, 613 Cake, Almond Loaf, 616 Banana, 697 Bride's, 617 Chocolate Loaf, 615 Cocoa, 619 Coffee, 620 Devil's Food, 619 Dried Fruit, 618 Groom's, 617 Maple Layer, 616 Plain Layer, 615 Pecan, 688 Sponge Cups, 624 Matzoth, 677 Molasses, 618 Cakes, Small, 621 Chestnut, 528 Gems, Coffee, 621 Nun's, 621 Kisses, Chocolate, 625 Nut, 625 Lebkuchen, 625 Macaroons, 624 Cocoanut, 624 Marshmallow Drops, 623 Sponge Cups, 624 Springerle, 625 Wafers, Almond, 623 Chocolate, 623 Ginger, 623 Graham, 622 Lemon, 623 Oatmeal, 622 Orange, 623 Pistachio, 624 Rolled, 622 Rose, 623 Calendar, Kitchen, 17 Calf's Head, Trussed, 177 No. 2, 178 Calves' Hearts, Baked, with what Served, 243 Hearts, Blanquette of, 17 Hearts, Cooking School Style, 177 Liver, Braised, with what to Serve, 243 Candied Mint Leaves, 631 Candies, 628 Butter Cups, 633 Scotch, 631 Chocolate Chips, 633 Caramels, 630 Tablets, 628 Cream Caramels, 630 Everton Taffy, 630 French Nougat, 630 Fudge, 629 Maple Sugar, 629 Ice Cream Taffy, 623 Mint Tablets, 629 Panocha, 629 Maple, 629 Patience, 631 Peanut Kisses, 630 Popcorn Balls, 631 Pulled Molasses, 632 Stuffed Dates, 632 Figs, 632 Candy, Mock, 539 Canned Corn, To Cook, 356 Cannelons, Fruit, 573 Canning Fruits Blackberries, 649 Cherries, 649 Gages, 649 Huckleberries, 649 Peaches, 649 Pears, 649 Plums, 649 Raspberries, 649 Strawberries, 649 With Sugar, 648 Without Sugar, 648 Vegetables Asparagus, 650 Beans, Lima, 651 String, 651 Beets, 651 Carrots, 652 Mushrooms, 348 Okra, 652 Peas, 352, 651 Tomato, Stewed, 652 Whole, 652 Turnips, 652 Cantaloupes, 548 Caper Family, 281 Capers, 428 Capon, To Carve, 236 With what Served, 245 Capons, 200 When in Season, 26 Caramel, To Make, 562 Caramel Filling, 626 Custards, 562 Sauce, 607 Caramels, 630 Caraway, 431 Cardamom, 431 Cardoons, 384 Carp, Baked, 104 Carrot Hash, 387 Salad, 452 Timbale, 387 Carrots, Botanical Family of, 281 Carrots à la Poulette, 385 en Surprise, 387 Farmer's Style, 386 Hawaiian, 695 in Turnip Cups, 386 Pickled, 386 Stewed, 385 Stewed, No. 2, 385 To Can, 652 Carving, 231 Cassava, 297 Bread, 298 Casserole, Potato, 288 Casuela, 682 Catcahas, 683 Catsup, Mushroom, 348 Cauliflower, 380 au Gratin, 380 Baked, 381 Boiled, 380 Cold, 380 Hungarian Fashion, 381 Salad, 451 Scalloped, 380 Celeriac, 390 With Cream Sauce, 391 Celery, 388 au Supreme, 390 Boiled, 389 Creamed, 389 Dipped, 390 Salad, 451 With Cabbage, 452 sautéd, 389 Stewed, 389 Celery, How to Clean, 388 Fringe, 388, 472 Keep, 388 Serve Raw, 388 Celery-root, Scalloped, 391 With Sauce Hollandaise, 391 Cereal Foods, 474 Cereals, Analysis of, 475 Digestibility of, 474 Importance of, 474 Varieties of, 474 Cereals, Breakfast, 476 Left Over, 477 Ready Cooked, 486 Wheat Germ, 483 Chafing Dish, Oysters in, 127 Venison in, 205 Chapon, A, 428 To Make, 470 Chard of Cardoons, 384 Charlotte, A Mock, 570 Apple, 592 Nut, 567 Princess, 567 Russe, 566 Charquican, 683 Cheese, Analysis of, 270 Cookery of, 271 Digestibility of, 271 Food Value of, 271 Rich, Value of, 270 Cheese Balls, 271, 273 Parmesan Balls, 272 Crackers, 275 Croquettes, 273 Fingers, 274 Fondue, 275 Cheese, How to Serve, 270 Melted, 275 Milk, 275 Pudding, 273 Souffle, 273 Souffle, No. 2, 273 Soup, Cream of, 74 Sticks, 274 Straws, 274 Toast, 275 Cheese, Varieties of Brie, 270 Camembert, 270 Cottage, 271 Cream, 270 Edam, 270 Gorgonzola, 270 Limburger, 270 Neufchatel, 270 Pineapple, 270 Schmierkase, 271 Schweitzer, 270 Stilton, 270 Cheese of Fruits, 538 Nuts, 539 Chemistry of Foods, 9 Cherries, Canned, 649 in Fondant, 546 CherrySALAD, 450 Chevril, 427 To Dry, 427 Chestnut, 526 Cakes, 528 Creams, 563 Griddle Bread, 529 Muffins, 528 Purée with Cream, 563 Soup, Cream of, 74 Chestnuts à la Poulette, 527 Boiled, 527 Dried, to Use, 529 Roasted, 529 To Dry, 529 To Keep Fresh, 529 To Serve as a Vegetable, 527 With Whipped Cream, 528 Chicken, Baked, 191 Boiled, How Served, 245 Boned, To Carve, 237 To Serve, 245 Breaded, 193 Broiled, To Carve, 236 To Serve, 245 Broth, with Egg Dumplings, 82 Brown Fricassee, 193 With what Served, 245 Cold, How to Serve, 246 With what Served, 246 Creamed, 195, 198 Chicken, Creole Style, 195 Croquettes, 197 en Casserole, 191 Gumbo, with Oysters, 84 How to Carve, 235 Mayonnaise of, 199 Panned, 191 Whole, 194 With what Served, 245 Pates, 552 Pilaff of, 195 Roasted, with what Served, 244 Salad, 458 No. 2, 459 Salad, Cream of, 460 Souffle, 198 Soup, English, 82 With Rice, 60 Timbale, 196 To Roast, 191 Chickens, Spring, 187 When in Season, 26 Chicory, 422 Roots, 422 Mixed with Coffee, 422 Salad, 452 Chile Con-Cana, 681 Chilli Sauce, 229 For Broiled Lobster, 229 Chillies, 406 Creole Fashion, 407 Chimneys, How to Construct, 35 ChiveSALAD, 461 Chives, 429 Chocolate, 637 Bavarian Cream, 566 Blanc Mange, 583 Caramels, 630 Chips, 633 Cream Pudding, 581 Desserts, 581 Farina, 583 Filling, 626 Floating Island, 582 Ice Cream, 601 Icing, 627 Kisses, 625 Loaf Cake, 615 Sauce, Hot, 608 Souffle, 583 Sponge, 564 Tablets, 628 Wafers, 623 Chowder, Clam, 92 Corn, 93, 354 Fish, 93 Pea, 326 Potato, 94 Chowders, 92 Chutney, 700 Ginger, 435 Mango, 701 Tamarind, 701 Cider Sauce, Meat, 226 Sweet, 609 Cinnamon, 432 Citron, To Preserve, 699 Clam Bouillon, 88 Chowder, 92 Soup, 88 Clams, To Select, 133 When in Season, 30 With what Served, 240, 241 Claret Jelly, 599 Sauce for Game, 226 Clear Soup with Sago, 59 Tapioca, 59 Cloves, 432 Cobnuts, 532 Cockieleekie, 85 Cocktails, 544 Fruit, 544 Mixed Fruit, 546 Orange, 545 Shaddock, 545 Strawberry, 545 Cocoa, 637 Cake, 619 Cocoanut, 530 Blocks, 532 Drops, 698 Jambolaya, 530 Macaroons, 624 Milk, 530 Pudding, 697 Pudding, Creamy, 559 Sauce, 530 Sugar Balls, 532 CodfishBalls, 101 in Cream, 100 Salt, Creole Style, 99 To Boil, 99 Souffle, 100 Stewed, 100 With what Served, 241 Cod's Head, Baked, 104 Coffee, A Perfect, 635 Boiled, 636 Breakfast, 636 Percolated, 635 Coffee, Bavarian Cream, 566 Cake, 620 Creamy Pudding, 559 Gems, 621 Ice Cream, 601 Jelly, 598 Sponge, 564 Cold Cream Sauce, 609 Meats, with what Served, 246 Slaw, 375 Cream, 375 Collards, 384 Combustion, 34 Composite Family, 281 Composition of the Body, 9 Compote, German, 591 of Oranges, 605 Condensed Cream, 261 Milk, 262 Conserved Fruits, 699 Conserves, 646 Consomme, 53 à la Colbert, 53 à la Duchess, 54 a l'Imperatrice, 60 à la Royal, 56 With Almond Balls, 55 Egg Balls, 54 Forcemeat Balls, 55 Marrow Balls, 54 Spinach Balls, 57 Suet Balls, 55 With German Farina Blocks, 56 Pea Blocks, 57 Tomato Blocks, 57 With Chestnuts, 58 Curry, 58 Macaroni, 53 Convolvulus Family, 281 Cooked Mayonnaise, 447 Cookery, Cheese, 271 Gas, 37 Cooking, Methods of, 33 Objects of, 14 Why Necessary, 33 Coral, Mushroom, 345 Coriander, 431 Corn, 295, 480 Botanical Family, 282 Corn, How to Hull, 357 Hulled to Cook, 357 Corn, Sweet, 352 Chowder, 93, 354 Cream Soup, 68 Fritters, 355 How to Boil, 352 in the Husk, 352 Can, 651 Canned to Cook, 356 Dry, 357 Dried to Cook, 357 Keep Fresh, 352 Roast, 356 Oysters, 355 Pudding, 355 Stewed, 353 Corn, Stewed with Okra, 400 Tomatoes,353 Corn Holders, Silver, 353 How to Use, 353 Corn Meal Batter Bread, 514 Bread, Mississippi, 514 Dodgers, 517 Dumplings, 576 Gems, 356 Loaf Bread, 497 Muffins, 481 Mush, 481 Fried, 481 Fritters, 481 Puffs, 517 Sally Lunn, 515 Waffles, 513 Corn-Salad, 422 Cottage Cheese, 271 Gems, 574 Court Bouillon, 87 Crab Bisque, 90 Croquettes, 121 Salad, 147 Crabs, 119 Boiled, 119 Creamed, 121 Deviled, 120 With what Served, 240 How to Serve Cold, 120 in Tomato Cases, 121 Soft Shelled, 122 How to Cook, 122 When in Season, 28 With Fresh Mushrooms, 240 Crackers, Fruit, 537 Nut, 537 Crawfish, 123 CreamCaramels, 630 Cream, Care of, for Butter, 268 Devonshire, 268 How to Whip, 267 Pudding, 572 Soups, 67 Toast,506 Velvet, 568 Cream of Tartar, 508, 614 Baking Powder, 509 Creamed Chicken, 195, 198 Crabs, 121 Dried Beef, 243 Oysters, 125 Sweetbreads, 179 Creams, Bavarian, 566 Chestnut, 563 Creamy Sauce, 608 Creole Recipes, 685 Crescents, German, 503 Cress, Garden, 423 Salad, 452 Water, 424 Croquettes, Belgian Hare, 208 Cheese, 273 Chicken, 197 Crab, 121 Egg, 253 Hominy, 296 Lentil, 337 Macaroni, 305 Nut, 538 Oyster, 132 Potato, 292 Italian, 292 Stuffed, 292 Sweet, 313 Spaghetti, 305 Squash, 316 Veal, 174 With what Served, 241 Crown Roast of Mutton, 165 Crustaceae, 114 Cucumber, 391 Digestibility, 391 Salad, 450 With Tomato, 456 Sauce, 227 Cucumbers à la Poulette, 392 Egyptian Style, 393 Fried, 394 How to Dress Raw, 392 in Salt Water, 678 Scalloped, 393 Stuffed, 393 With Cream Sauce, 392 Cumin Seeds, 431 Cup, Raspberry, 546 Cups, Measuring, 614 How to Use, 614 Custard, Almond, 516 Apple, 591 Bread, 562 Potato, 562 Custards, Apple Cup, 591 Caramel, 562 Pumpkin, 555 Currant Jelly, 644 Sago, 586 Sponge, 565 Curried Eggs, 250 Tomatoes, 417 Curry Balls, 160 Hawaiian Style, 693 of Fish, 106 Powder, East Indian, 433 Sauce, 221 Dandelion, 426 Greens, 426 Roots, 426 Salad, 453 German, 453 Delicate Breakfast Foods, 484 Delmonico, Potatoes, 286 Desserts, 558 Apple, 588 Chocolate, 581 Frozen, 600 Plain, 568 Without Eggs or Milk, 584 Desserts Cold Almond Custard, 561 Amber Jelly, 571 Apple Charlotte, 592 Plain, 592 Custard, 591 Cup, 591 Float, 590 Gelatin, 593 Sago, 588 Snow, 590 Tapioca, 588 Bavarian Cream Chocolate, 566 Coffee, 566 Strawberry, 566 Blackberry Sago, 585 Blanc Mange, 560 Chocolate, 583 Bread Custard, 562 Pudding, 574 Caramel Custards, 562 Charlotte Russe, 566 Chestnut Creams, 563 Chocolate Blanc Mange, 583 Cream Pudding, 581 Floating Island, 582 Tapioca, 581 Ceylon Pudding, 559 Floating Island, French, 560 Flummeries, Fruit, 586 Fruit Gelatins, 570 Glazed Fruit Balls, 587 Grape Sago, 586 Huckleberry Sago, 585 Jellies from Gelatin, 593 Jelly, Coffee, 598 Cooking School, 595 Brandy, 598 Fruit, 597 Lemon, 596 Orange, 596 Prune, 599 Sherry, 599 Wine, 599 Desserts Cold Jerusalem, 567 Maple Meringue, 556 Mock Charlotte, 570 Nut Charlotte, 567 Orange, Whip, 587 Oranges Filled with Jelly, 599 Parson's Sponge, 561 Pineapple Sago, 585 Poor Man's Tartlets, 555 Potato Custard, 562 Princess Charlotte, 567 Pudding, Creamy, 559 Rice, 568, 570 Raspberry Sago, 585 Rice Jelly, 568 Sago, Fruit, 585 Sponge, 564 Chocolate, 564 Coffee, 565 Currant, 565 Orange, 565 Raspberry, 565 Strawberry, 565 St. Petersburg Whip, 568 Strawberry Sago, 585 Sweet Purée of Chestnuts, 563 Syllabub, 604 Velvet Cream, 668 Washington Sponge, 565 Frozen Alaska Bake, 601 Cafe Frappé, 603 Parfait, 603 Simple, 604 Fruit Pudding, 605 Fruits, 603 Ice Cream Chocolate, 601 Coffee, 601 Peach, 600 Raspberry, 601 Strawberry, 601 Vanilla, 601 Ices, 600 Sherbet Blackberry, 603 Ginger, 602 Lemon, 602 Mint, 602 Orange, 602 Pineapple, 602 Raspberry, 603 Strawberry, 603 Sorbets, 602 Sultana Roll, 604 Hot Apple and Rice, 589 Compote, German, 591 Desserts Hot Apple Dowdy, 589 Farmhouse, 590 Omelet, 588 Pone, 588 Pudding, Steamed, 589 Rice Pudding, 592 Scallop, 593 Scalloped, 589 Tart, English, 554 Turnover, 590 Baba, 573 Bakewell Pudding, 579 Banana Soufflé, 549 Brioche, 573 Cannelons, Fruit, 573 Chocolate, Farina, 583 Cottage Gems, 574 Dumplings, Apple, 584 Apricot, 584 Corn, 576 Peach, 584 Pear, 584 Plum, 584 Rice, 569 Ginger Sponge Slices, 586 Hygienic Pie, 355 Nun's Puffs, 578 Omelette Soufflée, 579 Peach Tart, 557 Pineapple à l'Imperatrice, 585 Pudding, Batter, 572 Apple, 572 Blackberry, 572 Cherry, 572 Huckleberry, 572 Raspberry, 572 Bread, English, 577 Chocolate, 582 Cream, 572 Farmer's, 577 Hominy, 575 Indian, Baked, 571 Molasses, 586 Plum, English, 580 Whole Wheat, 575 Puddings Cold Ceylon, 559 Chocolate Cream, 581 Creamy, 559 Chocolate, 559 Cocoanut, 559 Coffee, 559 Lemon, 559 Orange, 559 Vanilla, 559 Jerusalem, 567 Desserts Cold Puddings Rice, Grandmother's, 570 Old Fashioned, 568 Frozen Fruit with Compote, 605 Sultana Roll with Sauce, 604 Hot Apple, Rice, 592 Steamed, 589 Bakewell, 579 Batter, Baked, 572 With Fruits, 572 Bread, 574 English, 577 Chocolate, 582 Cream, 572 Farmer's, 577 Hominy, 575 Indian, Baked, 571 Molasses, Steamed, 586 Oatmeal, 576 Plum, English, 580 Tapioca, 588 With Fruits, 588 Whole Wheat, 575 Rice and Raisins, 569 Roly Poly, 584 Short-cake, Blackberry, 576 Peach, 576 Raspberry, 576 Strawberry, 575 Slump, Apple, 578 Blackberry, 578 Huckleberry, 578 Peach, 578 Souffle, Chocolate, 583 Lemon, 579 Orange, 579 Peach, 579 Prune, 580 Vanilla, 578 Deviled Crabs, 120 With what Served, 240 Eggs, 253 Fish, 107 Lobster, 115 Ribs of Beef, 159 Devil's Food, 619 Devonshire Cream, 268 Diet, A Perfect, 12 Table, 14 Digestibility, Table of Comparative, 138 of Foods, 23 Digestion, Time Required for, 139 Where and How Accomplished, 14 Dill, 431 Pickles, 431 Dinner, A Company, 654 A Course, 653 A Plea for the Little, 664 How to Cook on a Gas Stove, 38 How to Serve, 653 Without a Maid, 667 Invitations, 655 Menus, Simple, 669 Regrets, 656 Dinners, Menus for Little, 665, 666 Dock, Sour, 424 Dodgers, Corn Meal, 517 Dried Bean Soup, 64 Fruit Cake, 618 Herbs, 430 DuckSALAD, 466 Salmi, Cooking School Style, 201 Ducks and Geese, 190 How to Dress, 190 How to Select, 200 When in Season, 26 Ducks, Cold, with what Served, 246 To Carve, 236 To Roast, 201 With what Served, 245 Wild, 207 To Carve, 236 To Cook, 208 Varieties of, 207 With what Served, 245 Dumplings, Apple, 584 Corn, 576 For Stews, 162 Peach, 584 Pear, 584 Plum, 584 Rice, 569 Duties of Waitress, 657 Edible Weeds, 424 Eels, 110 Egg and Beet Salad, 462 Egg, Boiled, hard,251 Indigestibility of, 247 Soft, 251 Breads, 515 Croquettes, 253 Flip, 258 Poached or Dropped, 257 Rolls, 510 Salad, 462 Soup, 61 Timbale, 249 Egg, White of, in Place of Baking Powder, 248 Yolk and White Unlike, 247 Eggs, Analysis of, 247 A Typical Food, 11 Digestibility of, 247 Food Value of, 247 Eggs à la Martin, 252 Bird Nests, 257 Brouilli, 254 Cooked at Table, 251 Curried, 250 Deviled, 253 How to Evaporate, 249 in Tomato Sauce, 252 Japanese, 253 on a Plate, 249 Shirred, 249 Steamed in Their Shells, 250 To Ascertain the Freshness of, 248 To Preserve, 248 Egg Plant, 395 Botanical Family of, 281 Egg Plant, Baked, 396 Broiled, 395 Dressed, 398 Farce, 397 Fried, 397 Hawaiian, 694 With Poached Eggs, 396 Egyptian Cylinders, 159 Enchilades, 681 Endive, 423 English Beef Soup, 61 Muffins, 504 Walnut Soup, Cream of, 74 entrées, with what to Serve, 241 Eschalot, 429 Evening, A Creole, 688 Everton Taffy, 630 Every Day Sauce, 609 Fairy Sauce, 610 Farina, Baked, 485 Chocolate, 583 Jelly, 485 Pate, 485 Porridge, 484 Souffle, 485 Fat in Beef, 137 in Fowl, 137 Fats Burned in Body, 137 Fuel Foods, 137 Importance of, 137 Fennel, 431 Fig Turnovers, 510 Figs, Pickled, Hawaiian Style, 699 Sweet, 689 Figs, Stewed Dried, 549 Tomato, 418 Filberts, 532 Fillet, Mock, 155 of Beef, To Carve, 232 To Serve, 242 Fillets of Fish, 103 Fillings, Cake, 626 Caramel, 626 Chocolate, 626 French, 626 Fruit, 626 Maple, 626 Marshmallow, 627 Nut, 626 Soft, 626 Fish, Color of Flesh, Pink, 96 White, 96 Composition of, 95 Digestibility of, 94 How to Select, 96 When in Season, 27 Fish à la Creme, 108 Balls, Jerusalem, 111 Blue, Baked, 103 Boiled, 98 With what Served, 240 Broiled, 105 in the Oil Stove, 105 Under the Gas, 105 With what Served, 240 Carp, Baked, 104 Chowder, 93 Cod, Salt, 99 Balls, 101 Boiled, 99 in Cream, 101 Creole Style, 99 Stewed, 101 With Macaroni, 101 Cod's Head, 104 Creamed, Plain, 108 Curry of, 106 Cutlets, 106 Deviled, 107 With what Served, 241 Eels, 110 Fillets of, 103 Fricassee of, 103 Halibut à la Flamande, 110 To Fry, 102 Odd Dishes of, 106 Pattie, 673 Pickled, 691 Planked, 103 in a Coal Stove, 109 Gas Stove, 109 Fish Planked in an Oil Stove, 109 Wood Stove, 108 Planked, with what Served, 240 Potted, 670 Salads, 467 Salmon, Pickled, 670 Potted, 670 Steaks, To Cook, 98 Small, 241 Soup, Cream of, 87 Soups, 86 Stewed, 671 Cold, 672 White, 679 Sturgeon, 110 Timbale, 107 Timbales, Stuffed, 107 To Fry, 102 Salt, 118 Spice, 112 Serve, 240 Smoke and Cure, 112 Flavorings, 436 Artificial, 436 Floating Island, 560 Chocolate, 582 Flour, Common Names of, 487 Graham, 489 How to Select, 487 White, 487 Whole Wheat, 488 Flummeries, 586 Foamy Sauce, 609 Food, Chemistry of, 9 Required in a Day, 12 Foods, Bulk, 361 Digestibility of, 23 Seasonable, 26 Fowls, Barn Yard, 187 How to Draw, 189 Fatten, 186 Feed, 187 Keep, 187 Kill, 187 Select, 188 Singe, 189 Truss, 189 Fowls, Giblets of, To Clean, 189 Frappe, 603 French Artichokes, 364 Fried Sweet Potatoes, 314 Nougat, 630 Salad Dressing, 441 Stew of Sweetbreads, 180 Fricassee of Chicken, 193 Fricasseeing, 44 Friceo, 692 Fried Mush, 481 Onions, 404 Oysters, 129 Potatoes, 290 Tomatoes, 416 Frijoles, 684 Fritters, 355 Frogs, 113 à la Poulette, 113 Frozen Desserts, 600 Fruits, 603 Puddings, 605 Strawberries, 603 Fruit Balls, Glazed, 587 Breads, 516 Cannelon, 573 Crackers, 537 Cocktails, 545 Jelly Making, 642 Gelatin, 570, 597 Gems, 512 Tarts, 554 Fruits, Dried, 550 Sub-Acid, 549 Frozen, 603 Mixed in Ice Border, 548 Names in Various Languages, 24 The First Jelly Group, 642 Second Jelly Group, 643 To Can, 648 Preserve, 645 Serving of, 542, 547 Sugar, 542 When in Season, 26 Fudge, 629 Maple Sugar, 629 Fuel, Anthracite, 37 Gas, 34 Oil, 34 Wood, 36 Fuels, Composition of, 34 Gages, To Can, 649 Game, Classification of, 204 Salad, 463 When in Season, 27 With what Served, 245 Garlic, 428 Botanical Family, 282 Seasoning, 428 Garnishing, 239 Gas as Fuel, 34, 37 Cookery, 37 Geese, How to Select, 202 When in Season, 26 Gelatin, Apple, 593 Fruit, 570, 597 To Clarify, 594 To Mold, 594 Tumblers, 596 Gems and Muffins, 511 Gems, Coffee, 621 Cottage, 574 Fruit, 512 Green Corn, 356 Nun's, 621 Geranium Family, 281 German Compote, 591 Crescents, 503 Mustard, 433 Puffs, 516 Gherkins, 395 Giblet Soup, 83 Ginger, 434 Botanical Family, 282 Chutney, 435 Salted, 435 Sponge, Slices, 586 Wafers, 623 Glucose, How Made, 641 Gluten Bread, 497 Foods, 486 Goose, To Carve, 236 With what Served, 245 Goosefoot, 425 Goslings, How to Select, 202 Gourd Family, 281 Graham Biscuits, 510 Bread, 496 Flour, 489 Muffins, 513 Wafers, 622 Grains, Comparative Analysis of, 475 Grape-Fruit Salad, 453 Grape Jelly, 643 Juice, 650 Sago, 586 Sherbet, 602 Grapes in Fondant, 546 Grass Family, 282 Green Pea Soup, 68 Vegetables, 361 Time for Cooking, 20 Grilling, 45 Grits Blocks, 296 Breads, Tennessee, 297 Breakfast, 482 Hominy, 296 Slices, 296 Groom's Cake, 617 Ground Cherry, 419 Gruel, Oatmeal, 479 Guava Jelly, 698 Soufflé, 698 Guinea Fowl, 202 Fricassee of, 203 When in Season, 27 With what Served, 245 Gumbo filée Powder, 429, 685 Gumbo, Oyster, 686 Shrimp, 686 Gumbos, 83 Haggis, 170 Halibut Steak à la Flamande, 110 Steaks, To Fry, 102 With what Served, 241 Ham, Baked, 183 Boiled, Cold, with what Served, 246 Boiled, Hot, with what Served, 244 Broiled, with what Served, 244 With Tomato Sauce, 184 Hard Sauce, 610 Hare, Belgian, 208 Hares, Belgian, To Carve, 237 To Cook, 208 When in Season, 27 Haricots, Blanc, 327 Verts, 321 Hash, Carrot, 387 Hashed Brown Potatoes, 286 Hawaiian Recipes, 689 Hazel Nut, 532 Heat, Applied to Food, 34 Herbs, How to Dry, 430 Mixed, 431 Hominy, Composition of, 295 Croquettes, 296 Grits, 296 Large, 295 Pudding, 575 Recipes for Cooking, 481 Horseradish, 398 Sauce, 227, 398 Stewed, 399 Huckleberry Slump, 578 Hulled Corn, 357 To Cook, 357 Humanized Cow's Milk, 266 Hygienic Pie, 555 Ice Cream, Chocolate, 601 Coffee, 601 Peach, 600 Raspberry, 601 Strawberry, 600 Vanilla, 601 Ice Creams, 600 To Mold, 606 Ices, 602 Icing, Almond, 627 Chocolate, 627 Cream, 627 Lemon, 627 Royal, 627 Vanilla, 627 Water, 627 Icings, Cake, 627 Impernarda, 678 Indian Curry Powder, 433 Indian Meal Pudding, 571 Invitations, Dinner, 655 Irish Stew, with what Served, 244 Italian Spaghetti, 300 Jambolaya, 682 of Fowl, 687 Japanese Eggs, 253 Fish Sauce, 228 Salad, 463 Jellies Fruit Apple, 644 Blackberry, 644 Crabapple, 698 Currant, 644 Grape, 643 Guava, 698 Plum, 698 Quince, 698 Strawberry, 644 Gelatin Amber, 571 Brandy, 598 Claret, 599 Coffee, 598 Cooking School, 595 Lemon, 596 Orange, 596 Pistachio, 595 Prune, 599 Rice, 568 Tomato, 413 Wine, 599 Jelly, How to Cover, 643 to Keep, 643 to Mold, 594 With Fruit, 597 to Serve, 595 in Orange Baskets, 599 Jelly Making, 642 Jerusalem Artichokes, 366 Pudding, 567 Jewish Recipes, 670 Juice, Grape, 650 Strawberry, 650 Julienne Soup, 58 Junket, 265 Kale, 381 Asparagus Fashion, 382 Boiled, 382 Kibbee, 159 Kidneys, Lamb's, 172 Kisses, Chocolate, 625 Nut, 625 Peanut, 630 Kitchen Calendar, 17 Kohl-rabi, 384 à la Hollandaise, 384 Koumys, 264 Lamb, How to Carve, 235 Select, 164 Cold, with what Served, 246 Hot, with what Served, 244 Lamb's Kidneys, 172 Sweetbreads, 172 Lamb's Lettuce, 422 Lamb's Quarters, 425 Larding, 46 Laurel Family, 282 Layer Cake, 615 Leban, 265 Lebkuchen, 625 Leek, 405 Botanical Family, 282 Leguminous Seeds, 323 Lemon Creamy Pudding, 559 Extract, 437 Frappé, 603 Jelly, 596 in Orange Baskets, 599 Sherbet, 602 Souffle, 578 Wafers, 623 Lemons, Pickled, 700 Lentil Croquettes, 337 Pie, 337 Purée, 336 Baked, 336 Souffle, 337 Soup, 63 Lentils, 335 Botanical Family, 281 Composition of, 335 Food Value of, 333 Lentils, Egyptian Style, 337 Stewed, 336 With Cream Sauce, 337 With Rice, 336 Lettuce, 423 Botanical Family, 281 Soup, Cream of, 73 Varieties of, 423 Lichens as Food, 282 Lily Family, 282 Lima Bean Cakes, 333 Soufflé, 334 Beans à la Poulette, 333 Dried, 333 How to Boil, 332 Limes, Pickled, 700 Litchi Nuts, 534 Little Pigs in Blankets, 133 Lobster à la Bordelaise, 118 à la Newburg, 119 Bisque, 89 Boiled, 240 Broiled Live, 118 With what Served, 240 Casserole, 116 Creamed, 117 Cutlets, 116 Deviled, 115 Farce, 116 With what Served, 240 Salad, 467 Sauce, 229 With Tomato Sauce, 117 Lobsters, How to Kill, 114 Open, 115 Serve, 240 When in Season, 28 Luncheon Menus, 669 Macaroni, 300 à la Anglaise, 303 Creamed, 304 Croquettes, 305 Deviled, 305 in the Chafing Dish, 309 in Tomato Baskets, 309 Rarebit, 307 Spanish Style, 308 Timbale, 308 With Asparagus, 301 Brown Butter, 302 Brown Sauce, 302 Cheese, 302 Oysters, 304 Tomato Paste, 307 Macaroni, Glutin, 300 Food Value of, 300 Macaroons, 624 Cocoanut, 624 Mace, 434 Mackerel, with what Served, 241 Maize, 480 Mallow Family, 281 Mango and Potato, 693 Chutney, 701 Maple Sugar Filling, 626 Fudge, 629 Layer Cake, 616 Panocha, 629 Marguerites, 556 Marjoram, Sweet, 429 Marron Glace, 529 Marshmallow Drops, 623 Filling, 627 Martynias, 395 Maryland Biscuits, 518 Maté, 637 Matzoth Pudding, 675 Soup Balls, 675 Sponge Cake, 677 Mayonnaise, Anchovy, 445 Aspic, 444 Cooked, 447 Dressing, 442 No. 2, 443 Green, 444 Red, 444 White, 443 East Indian, 445 Egyptian, 445 Spanish, 445 With Horseradish, 444 Meals, Example, 13 Measure, How to, 21 Measures and Weights, 21 Level, 21 Rounding, 22 Measuring Cup, 21 Meats, Chemistry of, 135 Dried, 138 Place in Diet, 135 Ratio of Water in, 136 Table of Comparative Analysis, 138 Digestibility, 138 When in Season, 26 Vegetables to Serve with, 239 Melted Cheese, 275 Menu for Company Dinner, 658 For Creole Evening, 688 Menus Little Dinners, 665-666 Simple Dinners, 669 Simple Luncheons, 669 Methods of Cooking, 33 Mignonette Pepper, 434 Milk, 259 Analysis of, 259 Skimmed, 261 and Barley Water, 263 a Typical Food, 11, 259 Boiled, Dangerous, 260 Milk Buttermilk, 260 Compared to Beef, 250 Condensed, 260 Curd of, 260 Digestibility of, 263 Digestion of, 260 Fats, 261 Fermentation of, 261 How to Flavor, 265 Keep, 260 Modified, No. 1, 266 No. 2, 267 Pasteurized, 264 Ptomaines in, 262 Ropy, Cause of, 261 Separator, 260 Skimmed, 260 Soups, 67 Souring of, 262 Sterilization of, 263 Toast, 506 Varieties of Cow's, 259 Goat's, 259 Human, 259 Mare's, 259 Milk Biscuits, 509 Millet, 299 Boiled, 299 Mint, 430 Family, 281 Sherbet, 602 Mock Artichokes, 420 Candy, 539 Charlotte, 570 Fillet, 155 Oysters, 318, 345 Turtle Soup, 80 Modified Milk, No. 1, 266 No. 2, 267 Molasses Candy, Pulled, 632 Sponge Cake, 618 Sauce, 610 Steamed Pudding, 586 Molding Ices, 606 Mollusks, 123 Montrose Sauces, 610 Mousse, 603 Muffins and Gems, 571 Muffins, Chestnut, 528 Corn Meal, 512 English, 504 Graham, 513 Oatmeal, 512 Rice, 512 Rye, 512, 513 Whole Wheat, 512 Mush Bread, 516 Bread, Fruit, 516 Corn Meal, 481 Oatmeal, 477 Rye, 483 Mushes, 478 Mushroom Catsup, 348 Sauce, 220 Beefsteak, 346 Soup, Cream of, 77 Oyster, 344 Mushrooms, Botanical Classification of, 282 How to Select, 339 Which to Avoid as Poisonous, 339 Mushrooms, Baked, Lepiota, 344 Broiled, 340 Lepiota, 344 Deviled, 345 How to Can, 348 Dry, 348 In a Chafing Dish, 341 Panned, 341 Pickled, 345 Stew, Oyster, 344 Stewed, 340 Coprinus Micaceus, 343 Stuffed, Morchella, 346 Under the Bell, 341 With Beefsteak, 340 Mushrooms Varieties of Agaricus Campestris, 340 Beefsteak, 346 Boletus, 347 Cantharellus, 345 Clavaria, 345 Coprinus, 342 Atramentarius, 342 Comatus, 342 Micaceus, 342 Coral, 345 Inky, The, 342 Lepiota Procera, 344 Lycoperdon, 347 Morchella Esculenta, 346 Morel, 346 Oyster, 344 Parasol, 344 Pleurotus Ostreatus, 344 Puff Ball, 347 Russula, 340 Scotch Bonnet, 344 Shaggy Mane, 342 Mustard Family, 281 Mustard, Black, 432 German, 432 Mustard, White, 432 Young Leaves of, 423 Mutton à la Daube, 170 Blanquette of, 169 Breast of, 166 Broth, 85 With Rice, 85 Chops, Breaded, with what Served, 244 Broiled, 167 With what Served, 244 "Hearts" with Mushrooms, 168 Masked, No. 1, 167 No. 2, 168 Cold, with what Served, 246 Crown Roast, 165 Haggis, 170 Hams, To Cure, 165 How to Select, 163 Leg of, Baked, with what Served, 244 Boiled, 164 With what Served, 243 Braised, To Serve, 244 Stuffed, 164 To Carve, 234 Loin of, Baked, 167 With what Served, 244 To Carve, 234 Saddle of, To Carve, 233 With what Served, 244 Salad, 464 To Garnish, 472 Shoulder of Boiled, 166 To Carve, 234 With Brown Potatoes, 166 With what Served, 244 Soups, 85 Stew, Scotch Style, 169 Nasturtiums, 428 Botanical Family, 281 Nightshade Family, 281 Nogg Sauce, 611 Noodle Soup, 60 Noodles, 309 Home-made, 310 Swiss, 311 With Cottage Cheese, 310 Nougat, French, 630 Nun's Gems, 621 Puffs, 578 Nut Butter, 526 Charlotte, 567 Cheese, 538 Nut Crackers, 537 Croquettes, 538 Kisses, 625 Rolls, 540 Salad, 455, 541 Sausage, 540 Short-cake, 539 Souffle, 538 Stuffing, 541 Wafers, 521 Nuts, 522 Best Methods of Cooking, 523 Food Value of, 522 in Place of Meat, 522 Uses of, 541 Varieties of Almonds, 523 Beech, 525 Brazil, 526 Hazel Composition, 522 Litchi, 534 Peanuts, 534 Pine or Pinon, 535 Pistachio, 536 Singhara, 537 Souari, 536 Walnut, 533 Nutmeg, 433 Nutrition, How Takes Place, 10 Oatmeal Bouchees, 480 Bread, 498 Food Value of, 476 Fritters, 479 Fruit Meringue, 478 Gruel, No. 1, 479 No. 2, 479 Muffins, 512 Mush, 477 Mush Bread, 517 Pudding, 576 Rich in Nitrogen, 476 Rolled, 478 Scones, 511 Soup, Cream of, 75 Timbale, 479 Wafers, 622 Waffles, 513 With Baked Apples, 480 Oats, Botanical Family, 282 Food Value, 476 Nitrogen in, 476 Okra, Botanical Family of, 281 Okra and Tomato Curry, 417 Boiled, 399 Dried for Winter Use, 399 Soup, Jewish, 676 Okra, Succotash, 401 Stewed with Corn, 400 Rice, 400 Tomato, 400 Olive Salad, 455, 470 Olives, Beef, 156 Omelet, French, 254 Plain, 254 Oyster, 255 Spanish, 256 Sweetbread, 255 Tomato, 256 With Peas, 255 Omelette Soufflee, 256, 579 Onion, 401 Botanical Family, 282 Varieties of, 401 Onion Glaces, 404 Onions au Supreme, 405 Baked, 403 Bermudas, 402 Boiled, 401 Fried, 404 Pickling, 406 sautéd, 404 Spanish, Boiled, 402 With Brown Sauce, 402 Stuffed, 403 Spring or Scullions, 406 Top, or Tree, 406 To Keep for Winter Use, 401 Opossum, To Bake, 206 Orange Cocktail, 545 Creamy Pudding, 559 Flavoring, 437 Jelly, 596 Punch, 638 Salad, 453 Sherbets, 602 Souffle, 579 Sponge, 564 Wafers, 623 Whip, 587 Oranges, Compote of, 605 Filled with Jelly, 599 Ox-Tail Soup, 62 Oyster Bouillon, 89 Croquettes, 132 Gumbo, 686 Pates, 553 Salad, 468 Soup, 89 Oyster Mushroom, 344 Soup, 344 Oysters, 124 à la Poulette, 124 and Macaroni, 131 Tripe, 131 Oysters Baked, 128 Broiled, Philadelphia Style, 127 Under Gas, 128 With what Served, 241 Creamed, 125 Curry of, 125 Deviled, No. 1, 126 No. 2, 127 Dry Pan of, 125 in Chafing Dish, 127 Little Pigs in Blankets, 133 Pickled, 132 Raw, with what Served, 240 Scalloped, 130 Stale, Very Poisonous, 124 Steamed, 127 When in Season, 27 With Steak, 152 Oysters, Corn, 355 Mock, 318 Palm Family, 282 Panocha, 629 Maple, 629 Parfait, 603 A Simple, 604 Parsley, 426 Family, 281 To Dry, 427 For Garnishing, 427 Parsnip Timbale, 319 Parsnips, 319 Boiled and Browned, 321 Composition of, 319 on Toast, 320 Scalloped, 320 Parson's Sponge, 561 PartridgeSALAD, 465 Partridges, with what Served, 245 Paste, Plain, 553 Light Crisp, 551 Pastry, 551 Pasteurized Milk, 264 Pates, Chicken, 552 Sweetbread, 553 Oyster, 553 Patience, 631 Patties, Pea, 350 Pea, Chick, 325 Field, 325 Pea Chowder, 326 Patties, 350 Porridge, 66 Salad, 456 Peas, Botanical Family, 281 Dried, Composition of, 324 Peas, Dried, Mashed and Baked, 325 Green, 349 à la Windsor, 351 Boiled, 349 English Fashion, 351 French Fashion, 351 Stewed, 350 To Can, 352, 651 With Cream Sauce, 350 Split, 325 German Fashion, 326 Purée of, 325 Sugar, How to Cook, 351 Peach Butter, 646 Dumplings, 584 Ice Cream, 600 Leaves, as Flavoring, 438 Purée, 612 Sauce, 611 Short Cake, 576 Slump, 578 Soufflé, 579 Tapioca, 588 Tart, 557 English, 554 Peaches a l'lmperatrice, 585 Peaches, To Can. 648 To Serve, 548 Sliced, 548 Peanut Butter, 535 Kisses, 630 Meal, 535 Soup, Cream of, 75 Wafers, 535 Peanuts, 338, 534 Composition of, 534 Pear Dumplings, 584 Pecan Cake, 688 Nuts, 541 Pectose, 641 Pepper Corns, 434 Black, 434 Mignonette, 434 White, 434 Pepper Grass, 423 Wild, 426 Peppers, Chillies, 406 Botanical Family, 281 Purée of, 408 Stewed, 408 Stuffed, 407 No. 2, 407 No. 3, 407 Petit, Brulé, 687 Pheasants, To Carve, 237 With what Served, 246 Pickled Artichokes, 367 Beets, 359 Pickled Carrots, 386 Figs, 699 Fish, 113 Gherkins, 395 Lemons, 700 Limes, 700 Martynias, 395 Onions, 406 Pie, Hygienic, 555 Paste, 553 Pigeons, How to Know, 203 Potted, 204 Pig, To Carve, 238 Young, with what Served, 244 Pig's Cheek, 184 Feet, 185 Feet, Another Method, 185 Pine Nut, 535 Pineapple à l'lmperatrice, 585 Conserved, 699 Sago, 585 Sherbet, 602 Pistachio Nut, 536 Wafers, 623 Planked Fish, 108 Plants Used for Seasonings, 426 Plover, To Carve, 237 Plum Dumplings, 584 Pudding, English, 580 Plums, To Can, 649 Poached Eggs, 251 Pocket-book Rolls, 502 Pod Tomato, 419 Poke Shoots, 425 Polenta, Bean, 329 Popcorn Balls, 631 Pop Overs, 515 Hygienic, 519 Whole Wheat, 516 Pork, 181 and Beans, 329 With what Served, 244 Cold, with what Served, 246 Roasted, with what Served, 244 Porridge, English Pea, 66 Farina, 484 Wheat, 480 Wheatlet, 483 Pot-au-Feu, 162 Potato and Mango, 693 Balls, 286 Balls for Fish, 293 Chowder, 94 Croquettes, 292 Stuffed, 292 Custard, 562 Fritters, German Style, 291 Pancake, German, 292 Ragout of, 288 Potato Timbale, 287 Salad, 464 Soufflé, 288 Soup, Cream of, 69 Potatoes à la Anna, 287 à la Bordelaise, 289 à la Creme, 290 à la Duchess, 287 Baked, 285 and Browned, 289 Boiled, 285 Delmonico, 286 French Fried, 290 German, 283 Hashed Browned, 286 How to Keep, 283 Stewed, 291 Stuffed, 286 With Fish, 291 With Meat, 291 Potatoes, Botanical Family, 281 Composition of, 284 Digestibility of, 284 Poison in, 283 Potatoes, Sweet, Botanical Family, 281 Cookery of, 312 Pot Roast, How to Serve, 240 Poultry, Different Kinds of, 186 Digestibility of, 186 How to Pick, 188 Prepare for Market, 188 Prairie Chickens, 237 To Carve, 237 To Serve, 246 Preserved Citron, 699 Strawberries, 646 in the Sun, 645 Preserving, 644 Prune Jelly, 599 Soufflé, 580 Stewed, 550 Stuffed, 700 Puff Balls, 347 à la Poulette, 347 sautéd, 347 puff paste, 551 To Bake, 552 Puffs, Corn, 517 German, 516 Nun's, 516 Pulled Candy, 632 Pulse, Family, 281 Pumpkin, Botanical Family, 281 Pumpkin, Baked, 316 Boiled, 316 Custards, 555 Dried, 317 Mashed, 317 Timbale, 317 Punch, Apple Cup, 639 East Indian, 638 Orange, 638 Parlor, 689 Wedding, 639 Yerma, 638 Punches, Fruit, 638 Purselane, 425 Boiled, 425 Purées Sweet Chestnuts, 563 Peaches, 612 Vegetable Lentils, 336Peas, 325 Split Peas, 325 Peppers, 408 Rice, 82 Vegetable, 66 Quail, With what Served, 246 Quick Sausage, 184 Quince Conserves, 647 Jelly, 642 Preserves, 647 Rabbit Soup, 62 Rabbits, To Garnish and Carve, 237 When in Season, 27 With what Served, 245 Radishes, Botanical Family, 409 Digestibility of, 409 How to Cook, 409 How to Serve Raw, 409 Ragout of Potato, 288 Rail Birds, with what Served, 246 Raisin Sauce, 228 Wine, Passover, 677 Raisins, Stewed, 549 Rarebit, A Homely, 273 A Tomato, 275 Macaroni, 307 Welsh, 272 Raspberries, To Serve, 546 Raspberry Cup, 546 Ice Cream, 601 Jelly, 644 Jelly, Sago, 586 Sago, 585 Sherbet, 603 Short Cake, 576 Sponge, 565 Recipes, Creole, 685 Hawaiian, 689 Jewish, 670 Spanish, 680 Red Cabbage, 377 Reed Birds, To Carve, 237 To Cook, 237 With what Served, 246 Regrets, Dinner, 656 Ribs, Deviled Beef, 159 Rice, Composition of, 294 Digestibility of, 294 Food Value of, 293 Rice, Boiled, 294 East Indian Fashion, 294 Carolina, 295 Dinner Rolls, 500 Dumplings, 569 Jelly, 568 Muffins, 512 Patna, 295 Pudding, 568 Grandmother's, 570 Purée, 82 Spanish, 677 Soup, Cream of, 71 With Apples, 589 Okra, 400 Raisins, 526 Roasted Beef, 143 Roasting, Best Method of, 43 Roe Sauce, 230 Rolled Bacon, 183 Wafers, 622 Rolled or Flaked Wheat, 480 Oats, 478 Rolls, Breakfast, 503 Egg, 510 Nut, 540 Pocket-book, 502 Rice Dinner, 500 Vienna, 501 Roly Poly, 584 Rose Wafers, 623 Round Steak with Tomato Sauce, 154 Russian Salad, 470 Rye, 483 Botanical Family, 282 Rye Biscuits, 510 Bread, 498 Muffins, 512, 513 Mush, 483 Sage, 429 Sago, 298 Sago, Botanical Family of, 282 Sago, Apple, 588 Sago, Blackberry, 585 Grape, 586 Pineapple, 585 Raspberry, 585 Soup, Hawaiian, 691 Strawberry, 585 Salad, Alligator Pear, 696 Anchovy, 488 Apple, 448 Artichokes, 448 A Simple, 439 Asparagus, 449 Bean, Lima, 449 String, 449 Beef, 457 Beet Root, 449 Bobotee, 457 Bohemian, 450 Cabbage, 450 Red, 452 Carrot, 452 Cauliflower, 451 Celery, 451 Cherry, 450 Chicken, 458 Chicken, Cream of, 460 Chicory, 452 Chiffon, 452 Chive, 461 Cooking School, 451 Crab, 467 Cress, 452 Cucumber, 450 Dandelion, 453 German, 453 Egg, 462 Egg and Beet, 462 Game, 463 Grape Fruit, 453 Japanese, 463 Lobster, 467 Macedoine, 453 Mutton, 464 Nut, 455 Olive, 455, 470 Orange, 453 Oyster, 468 Partridge, 465 Philadelphia Cream, 459 Pea, Green, 456 Potato, 464 Russian, 470 Salmon, 468 Sardine, 470 Scallop, 469 Shad Roe, 469 Shrimp, 469 Spanish, 472 Spinach, 456 Salad, Sweetbread, 465 Tomato and Cucumber, 456 Tongue, 454 Tripe, 467 Turkey or Duck, 466 Turnips in Jelly, 454 Vegetables, 440 Waldorf, 465 Salad Accompaniments, 472 Basket, 441 Colorings, 472 Garnishings, 472 Seasonings, 472 Salad Dressings, 441 Cream, 446 English, 442 French, 441 Farmer's, 446 German, 446 Italian, 442 Japanese, 442 Mayonnaise, 442 Sidney Smith's, 447 Red, 443 White, 443 Salad Plants, A Group of, 422 Salads, 439 Digestibility of, 441 Dinner, 448 Fruit, 439 Luncheon, 457 Sally Lunn, Corn, 515 Salmon Fillets, en Papillote, 99 Pickle, 670 Potted, 670 Salad, 468 Steaks, To Broil, 98 Salsify, 317 Boiled with Brown Sauce, 318 With Cream Sauce, 319 Browned, 318 Scalloped, 318 Soup, Cream of, 77 Sandwiches, Appropriate with Salads, 473 Sassafras, Botanical Family, 282 Sauces Meat and Fish Chilli, for Broiled Lobster, 229 Cider, 226 Claret, for Game, 226 Cream, 215 Cream Lettuce, 695 Cucumber, 227 Hollandaise, 225 Horseradish, 227, 398 Japanese Fish, 228 Lobster, 229 Milk or White, 215 Sauces Meat and Fish Piquante, 226 Cold Tomato, 228 Raisin, 228 Roe, 230 Shrimp, 229 Soubise, Brown, 225 White, 225 Supreme, 225 Vinegar, 227 Pudding Apple, 544 Apple, Whole, 544 Brandy, 607 Burnt Sugar, 607 Caramel, 607 Chocolate, 608 Cider, 609 Cold Cream, 609 Creamy, 608 Every Day, 609 Fairy, 610 Foamy, 609 hard,610 Molasses, 610 Montrose, 611 Nogg, 611 Our Cooking School, 612 Peach, 611 Soft Custard, 608 Spice, 612 Strawberry, 611 Sauces to Serve with Beef, 241 With Cold Meats, 246 With entrées, 241 With Fish, 240 With Game, 246 With Mutton, 243 With Oysters, Raw, 240 With Pork, 244 With Poultry, 244 With Veal, 243 Sauces, Fish, 228-230 Meat, 215 Pudding, 607 Sauerkraut, To Cook, 376 To Make, 376 Slaw, 377 sautéing, 46 Sausage, Nut, 540 Sausage, Quick Meat, 184 Savoy, 378 Stuffed, 379 Savory, Summer, 429 ScallopSALAD, 469 Scallops, How to Select, 133 When in Season, 31 Scallops à la Newburg, 134 Fried, 134 Stewed, 134 Scalloped Apples, 589 Celery Root, 391 Oysters, 130 Tomatoes, 415 Schedules for Cooking Fish, 18 Game, 18 Meats, 18 Vegetables, 18 Scones, Oatmeal, 511 Scotch, 514 Sweet Milk, 511 Scotch Leek Soup, 85 Oat Cake, 519 Scones, 514 Short Bread, 520 Stew, 169 Sea Weeds, Edible, 282 Shad, Planked, 108 When in Season, 28 Shad Roe Salad, 469 Shaddock Cocktails, 545 Shallot, 429 Sheep's Head, 171 Cheese, 172 Trotters, 171 Shell Fish, How to Serve, 240 Shepherd's Purse, 426 Sherbet, Blackberry, 603 Grape, 602 Lemon, 602 Mint, 602 Orange, 602 Pineapple, 602 Raspberry, 603 Strawberry, 603 Sherbets, 602 Sherry Jelly, 599 Shirred Eggs, 249 Shrimp Gumbo, 686 Salad, 469 Sauce, 229 Shrimps, 123 When in Season, 28 Short Bread, 520 Short-cake, Blackberry, 576 Nut, 539 Peach, 576 Raspberry, 576 Strawberry, 575 Sidney Smith's Salad Dressing, 447 Simlin, 394 Slump, 578 Smelts, To Clean, 102 Smothered Beef, 158 Snapper Soup, 91 Snipe, To Carve, 237 Soda, Bi-carbonate, 508 Soft Custard Sauce, 608 Soft Shell Crabs, 122 Sorbets, 602 Sorrel, 424 Soup, 79 Soufflée, Omelette, 579 Soufflés Codfish, 100 Lentil, 337 Sweet Chocolate, 583 Lemon, 579 Orange, 579 Prune, 580 Vanilla, 579 Serving and Table Waiting, 658 How Best to Do, 667 Without a Maid, 658 Soup à la Reine, 81 à la Sap, 79 Artichoke, 70 Barley, 59 Bean, Black, 63 Dried, 64 White, 64 Beef, English, 61 Chicken, 81 Chicken, English, 82 Chicken with Noodle, 60 Chicken with Rice, 60 Clam, 88 Clear, with Sago, 59 Tapioca, 59 Cockieleekie, 85 Crecy, 69 Egg, 61 Giblet, 83 Green Turtle, 90 Gruel, German, 76 Gumbo, 83 Julienne, 58 Lentil, 63 Maigre, 65 Mock Bisque, 71 Mock Turtle, 80 Mutton, 85 Noodle, 60 Normandy, 78 Okra, 676 Oxtail, 62 Oyster, 89 Palestine, 70 Peanut, 75 Portuguese Soup, 59 Rabbit, 62 Sago, 691 Scotch Leek, 85 Snapper, 91 Soup, Sorrel, 79 Soubise, 76 Split Pea, 63 Tomato, 61 Vegetable, 64 Soups, Cream Asparagus, 67 Beet, 73 Cheese, 74 Chestnut, 74 Corn, 68 Fish, 87 Lettuce, 73 Mushroom, 77 Oatmeal, 75 Pea, Canned, 69 Green, 68 Potato, 69 Rice, 71 Salsify, 77 Spinach, 72 Turnip, 72 Walnut, 75 Soup Balls, Matzoth, 675 Marrow, 54 Suet, 55 Blocks, Farina, 56 Soups, 48 Chicken, 81 Fish, 86 Meat, 52 Milk, 67 Stock, 77 Vegetable, 64 Soups, How to Serve, 240 With what Served, 240 Sourdock, 424 Souring of Milk, 262 Sour Milk Breads, 514 Soy Bean, Composition of, 335 Nutritive Value of, 335 Spaghetti à la Royal, 306 Boiled, 301 With Tomato Sauce, 306 Creamed, Baked, 303 Croquettes, 305 in Cheese Shells, 303 Italian Fashion, 304 Spanish Omelet, 256 Onions, 402 Recipes, 680 Rice, 677 Squares, 310 Spearmint, 430 Spice Sauce, 612 Spices, 431 Spinach, 409 Botanical Family, 282 Spinach à la Anglaise, 411 Boiled, 410 As Greens, 410 With Cream, 411 For Garnishing, 411 Left Overs, 412 On Toast, 410 Salad, 456 Spanish Fashion, 412 Soup, Cream of, 72 Split Pea Soup, 63 Split Peas, 325 German Fashion, 326 Sponge, Apple, 564 Chocolate, 564 Coffee, 564 Currant, 565 Lemon, 564 Orange, 564 Parson's, 561 Raspberry, 565 Strawberry, 565 Spring Chickens, 187 Springerle, 625 Sprouts, Brussels, 383 Turnip, 419 Squabs, How to Cook, 204 With what Served, 246 Squash, Botanical Family, 281 Squash, Summer, Boiled, 394 Mashed, 395 With Cream Sauce, 395 Winter, 315 Baked, 315 Croquettes, 316 Mashed, 316 Pan Baked, 315 Squirrels, To Cook, 207 Stachys, 412 Boiled, 412 Steamed Eggs, 250 Oysters, 129 Steaming, 43 Stewing, Best Method of, 44 Beef, 161 Chicken, 195 Potatoes, 291 Stock, Soup, 49 Beef, 49 Beef and Chicken, 50 Bone, 51 Consomme, 50 How to Clarify, 51 When to Make, 51 White, 50, 77 St. John's Bread, 360 St. Petersburg Whip, 565 Strawberries, French Fashion, 546 Frozen, 603 in Fondant, 546 Preserved, 646 in the Sun, 645 Strawberry, Bavarian Cream, 566 Cocktails, 545 Ice Cream, 600 Jelly, 644 Juice, 650 Sago, 585 Sauce, 611 Sherbet, 603 Short Cake, 575 Sponge, 565 Syrup, 650 Sturgeon, 110 Succotash, 354 Okra, 401 Sugar, Action of Acid Upon, 641 Sugar Peas, 351 Sultana Roll, 604 Summer Savory, 429 Sweet Basil, 430 Sweetbread Omelet, 255 Salad, 465 Patés, 553 Sweetbreads, 179 Baked, 180 Boiled, 180 Creamed, 179 French Stew of, 180 Lamb's, 172 With what Served, 243 Sweet Corn, Boiled, 352 in the Husk, 352 How to Keep, 352 Sweet Potato, 311 Composition of, 312 Croquettes, 313 Sweet Potatoes, Baked, 313 Southern Style, 312 Boiled, 312 and Baked, 312 and Mashed, 312 Broiled, 314 French Fried, 314 Stuffed, 313 Syllabub, 604 Table of Analysis of Green Vege- tables, 363 of Diets, 14 Table-Waiting, 653 Tamales, Mexican, 680 Tamarind Chutney, 701 Tapioca, 297 Apple, 588 Apricot, 588 Peach, 588 Pear, 588 Plums, 588 Taro, 297 Baked, 694 Cakes, 694 Tarragon, 427 To Dry, 427 Tartlets, Poor Man's, 555 Temperatures, for Cooking, 17 Thermometer Scales, 22 Plow to Reduce Fahr. to Cen., 22 Thyme, 430 Timbales, Carrot, 387 Chickens, 196 Egg, 249 Fish, 107 With what Served, 241 Macaroni, 308 Oatmeal, 479 Parsnips, 319 Potato, 287 Pumpkin, 317 Toast, Cream, 506 Dry, 505 Milk, 506 Water, 506 Why Make, 505 Tobasco Oil, 406 Tomato, Botanical Family, 281 Digestibility of, 412 Tomato and CucumberSALAD, 457 Figs, 418 Jelly, 413 Omelet, 256 Salad, 456 Soup, 61 Pod or Cherry, 419 Tomatoes and Corn, Stewed, 353 Okra, 400 Okra Curry, 417 Tomatoes, Baked, 414 Boiled, 414 Broiled, 416 Canned, Stewed, 652 Whole, 652 Curried, 417 French Fashion, 418 Fried, 416 Iced, 228, 413 On the Half Shell, 413 Panned, 416 Scalloped, 415 Stewed, 414 Green, 684 Tomatoes, To Serve Raw, 413 Tongue, Beef's, Salad, 454, 466 To Carve, 233 Tonka Bean, 436 Tous-les-Mois, 299 Tripe and Oysters, 131 Salad, 467 Truffles, 338 Trussed Calf's Head, 179 No. 2, 178 Trussing, 190 of Fowl, 189 Tumblers, Gelatin, 596 Turkey, Cold, with what Served, 246 How to Draw, 189 to Select, 199 to Truss, 189 Roasted, 191 With what Served, 244 Salad, 466 Wild, 207 To Carve, 236 When in Season, 26 Turmeric, 433 Paper, 433 Turnips, Composition of, 419 Boiled with Potatoes, 420 With Cream Sauce, 419 Browned, 421 Canned, 652 German Fashion, 421 in Jelly, 454 Left Over, 422 Soup, Cream of, 72 Swedish, 422 With Sweet Potatoes, 420 Turnovers, Apple, 590 Figs, 510 Turtle Soup, 90 Underground Vegetables, Time for Cooking, 20 Unleaven Breads, 518 Utensils for Soup Making, 47 Valerian Family, 281 Vanilla, Artificial, 436 Creamy Pudding, 559 Extract, 437 Ice Cream, 601 Souffle, 578 Sugar, 437 True, 436 Wafers, 623 Veal à la Osborne, 174 Baked Loin, 173 Cold, with what Served, 246 Croquettes, 174 Veal, Cushion of, To Carve, 235 Cutlets à la Flamande, 174 With what Served, 243 French Hash, 176 Fricandeau, with what Served, 243 How to Select, 172 Loaf, with what Served, 243 Loin, How to Carve, 234 With what Served, 243 When in Season, 26 Vegetable Bouillon, 65 Marrow, 394 Oysters, 318 Vegetables, Botanical Classification, 281 Comparative Analysis, 363 Digestibility of, 278 Food Value of, 277 Green or Succulent, 361 How to Can, 650 To Cook, 279 To Freshen, 280 To Serve with Beef, 241 Chicken, 244 Duck, 245 Wild, 245 entrées, 241 Fish, 240 Game, 245 Goose, 245 Hares, 245 Meats, Cold, 246 Mutton, 243 Oysters, 240 Partridges, 245 Pheasants, 246 Pork, 244 Poultry, 244 Prairie Hens, 246 Quail, 246 Rabbits, 245 Reed Birds, 246 Soups, 240 Squabs, 246 Turkey, 244 Wild, 244 Veal, 243 Venison, 246 Woodcock, 246 To Serve Raw, 280 Names in Different Languages, 24 Nitrogenous, 323, 338 Starchy, 282 Sugar in, 317 Uses of Green, 361 When in Season, 31 Why We Cook, 361 Velvet Cream, 568 Venison, 205 Broiled, 205 How to Cure, 205 Haunch, To Carve, 234 With what Served, 246 in a Chafing Dish, 205 Steak, with what Served, 246 Woodsman's Stew, 206 No. 2, 206 Vienna Rolls, 501 Vinegar Sauce, 227 Virginia Bisc its, 519 Wafer Bread, 520 Wafers, Almond, 525, 623 Chocolate, 623 Graham, 622 Lemon, 623 Oatmeal, 622 Orange, 623 Peanut, 535 Pistachio, 623 Rolled, 622 Rose, 623 Vanilla, 623 Waffles, Corn Flour, 513 Oatmeal, 513 Waiting at Table, 653 Waldorf Salad, 465 Walnut Family, 533 Walnuts, 533 Water, Barley, 482 Water Chestnuts, 537 Cress, 424 Watermelons, 547 Chilled, 547 Weeds, Edible, 424 Weights and Measures, 21 Weights, Standard, of Foods, 22 Welsh Rarebit, 272 Wheat, Botanical Family, 282 Flour, Spring, 487 Winter, 487 Whole, 488 Germ, Composition of, 475 Cereals, 483 Porridge, 480 Rolled, 480 Wheatlet, Breakfast Porridge, 483 Molded, 484 Soufflé, 484 Whip, St. Petersburg, 565 Whipping Cream, 267 White Bean Soup, 64 Pepper, 434 Stock, 50 Whole Wheat Biscuits, 510 Flour, 488 Muffins, 512 Pop Overs, 516 Pudding, 575 Wild Ducks, 207 To Carve, 236 Turkey, 207 To Carve, 236 Wine Jellies, 599 Wine Passover, Raisin, 677 Woodcock, with what Served, 246 Yam Family, 282 Yams, 314 Composition of, 315 Yeast, 490 German Compressed, 490 Home Made, 494 Zwieback, 505 A LIST OF Mrs. Rorer's Cookery Books Published by ARNOLD AND COMPANY 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book This book marks the highest point of development in Domestic Science, and represents the results of hardwork of the best years of Mrs. Rorer's life. It is not a mere recipe book, but tells of those things one needs to know concerning cooking, living, health and best way of housekeeping. At the same time, each department has an abundance of new and good recipes, given in Mrs. Rorer's clear and lucid style, so that no one can possibly make mistakes. A magnificent department on vegetables will make the book welcome to the growing cult of vegetarians. The scientific division of the vegetables into groups, giving their constituents, will prove of great value to invalids afflicted with diabetes, kidney disease, etc. In all, this book is the most valuable contribution to Domestic Science that has yet been published, placing it far above the level of the ordinary cook book. No household can afford to be without it, if good living and correct living are to be desired. Large 12mo., 735 pages, profusely illustrated; bound in washable cloth, price $2.00; postage 20 cents. Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book This book has been before the public a number of years, and has been the rule and guide in thousands of homes. It is a valuable book for any one to have, even though they possess the New Cook Book. It is a standard of excellence, in that it is full of the brightest things in cookery; the recipes are absolutely reliable, and the general instructions to housekeepers of the most helpful and necessary character. Every recipe has been successfully tested by Mrs. Rorer, in class room and home, and found to come out right. This alone is of incalculable benefit, and ought to commend the book to the favorable consideration of every housekeeper. 12mo., nearly 600 pages, with portrait of author; bound in washable cloth, $1.75. Canning and Preserving By Mrs. S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, etc. In this volume Mrs. Rorer discusses at greater length than is allowed in the limits of her work on cooking in general, the canning and preserving of fruits and vegetables, with the kindred subjects of marmalades, butters, fruit jellies and syrups, drying and pickling. As in her Cook Book, the recipes are clearly and simply given, while an exhaustive index affords easy reference to every subject. 12mo., with index; bound in cloth, 50 cents. Hot Weather Dishes By Mrs, S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, etc. Its name tells the whole story. It is the only book of the kind. Hot weather seems to suspend the inventive faculty of even the best housekeepers, and at a season when the appetite needs every help and encouragement this book will be found of the greatest use. Full of suggestions for tempting and dainty dishes, with recipes for presenting the substantiate in palatable forms. Contains a complete index to all the recipes. "A seasonable and appetizing book, entitled Hot Weather Dishes, by Mrs. Rorer, has just been issued. It contains table recipes for summer use. Salads, vegetables, dishes of hot, or previously prepared meats, piquant sauces, fruit omelets and summer desserts are particularly attractive."?- Philadelphia Ledger. 12mo., with index; bound in cloth, 50 cents. Home Candy Making By Mrs. S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, etc. A book full of choice recipes, with complete instructions for making the many delicacies that delight both young and old. It is the result of careful practice in teaching beginners how to make attractive, wholesome and palatable varieties of home-made candies. As a rule, these are made from uncooked sugar and white of egg, and while they may be palatable to some persons, to the connoisseur they are coarse and heavy. The excellency of the recipes consists in their simplicity and faithfulness to minutias. 12mo., with index; bound in cloth, 50 cents. New Salads For Dinners, Luncheons, Suppers and Receptions. With a group of Odd Salads and some Ceylon Salads. By Mrs. S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, etc. In this book are gathered together a choice lot of original recipes for the proper making and serving of this important dish. The salad is not alone for the epicure, nor is it to be looked upon merely as a tasty bit to enliven a meal. It should form a part of the daily cuisine in every family. Judging from the statements of the author, not enough attention is paid to this matter by the average housekeeper. Long 16mo., with index; bound in cloth, 50 cents. Made-Over Dishes How to transform the left overs into palatable and wholesome dishes. With many new and valuable recipes. By Mrs. S. T. Rorer, author of Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book, etc. We quote from the author's introduction: "Economical marketing does not mean the purchase of inferior articles at a cheap price, but of a small quantity of the best materials found in the market; these materials to be wisely and economically used. Small quantity and no waste, just enough and not a piece too much, is a good rule to remember. In roasts and steaks, however, there will be, in spite of careful buying, bits left over, that, if economically used, may be converted into palatable, sightly and wholesome dishes for the next day's lunch or supper." Long 16mo., with index; bound in cloth, 50 cents.