THE  BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL  COOK BOOK. 
 BY  FANNIE MERRITT FARMER,  PRINCIPAL OF THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL. 
 BOSTON: LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY. 1896. 
 
  
 
 

  Copyright, 1896,  BY FANNIE MERRITT FARMER.   University Press:  JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A.  
  
 
 

 TO  MRS. WILLIAM B. SEWALL,   President of the Boston Cooking-school,   IN APPRECIATION OF HER HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT AND UNITING EFFORTS IN PROMOTING THE WORK OF SCENTIFIC COOKERY, WHICH MEANS THE ELEVATION OF THE HUMAN RACE,  THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED  BY THE AUTHOR.  
  
 
 

 
  
 
 

  Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of Helen and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits and balms and spices, and all that is healing and sweet in the fields and groves and savory in meals. It means carefulness and inventiveness and willingness and readiness of appliances. It means the economy of your grandmothers and the science of the modern chemist: it means much testing and no wasting; it means English thoroughness and French art and Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be perfectly and always ladies--loaf givers. --RUSKIN.  
  
 
 

 
  
 
 

 PREFACE. 
 "BUT for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life requires nourishment."   With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have not been forgotten. During the last decade much time has been given by scientists to the study of foods and their dietetic value, and it is a subject which rightfully should demand much consideration from all. I certainly feel that the time is not far distant when a knowledge of the principles of diet will be an essential part of one's education. Then mankind will eat to live, will be able to do better mental and physical work, and disease will be less frequent.  At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have been urged to prepare this book, and I trust it may be a help to many who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked upon as a compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may awaken an interest through its condensed scientific knowledge which will lead to deeper thought and broader study of what to eat.  F. M. F.  
  
 
 

 
  
 
 

 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
  FOOD............................................................  1  
  PAGE 
 Food............................................................  1  
 Correct Proportions of Food.....................................  2  
 Water...........................................................  4  
 Salts...........................................................  5  
 Starch..........................................................  5  
 Sugar...........................................................  6  
 Gum Pectose and Cellulose.......................................  8  
 Fats and Oils...................................................  8  
 Milk............................................................  9  
 PAGE 
 Milk for the Sick...............................................  11  
 Butter..........................................................  11  
 Cheese..........................................................  12  
 Fruits..........................................................  13  
 Vegetable Acids, and where found................................  14  
 Condiments......................................................  14  
 Flavoring Extracts..............................................  16  
 
 CHAPTER II. 
  COOKERY.........................................................  17  
  Fire............................................................  18  
 How to Build a Fire.............................................  19  
 Ways of Cooking.................................................  21  
 Various Ways of Preparing Food for Cooking......................  25  
 How to Bone a Bird..............................................  27  
 How to Measure..................................................  27  
 how to Combine Ingredients......................................  29  
 Ways of preserving..............................................  30  
 Table Measures and Weights......................................  32  
 Time Tables for Cooking.........................................  32  
 
 CHAPTER III. 
  BEVERAGES.......................................................  36  
  Tea.............................................................  36  
 How to Make Tea.................................................  38  
 Five o'clock Tea................................................  38  
 Russian Tea.....................................................  38  
 Iced Tea........................................................  38  
 Coffee..........................................................  38  
 Filtered Coffee.................................................  41  
 Boiled Coffee...................................................  41  
 After-Dinner Coffee (Black Coffee, or Café Noir)................  43  
 Kola............................................................  43  
 Cocoa and Chocolate.............................................  43  
 Cocoa shells....................................................  44  
 Cracked Cocoa...................................................  44  
 Breakfast Cocoa.................................................  45  
 Reception Cocoa.................................................  45  
 Brandy Cocoa....................................................  45  
 Chocolate.......................................................  45  
 
 

 FRUIT DRINKS....................................................  46  
  PAGE 
 Lemonade........................................................  46  
 Pineapple Lemonade..............................................  46  
 Orangeade.......................................................  46  
 Mint Julep......................................................  46  
 Claret Punch....................................................  47  
 PAGE 
 Fruit Punch I...................................................  47  
 Fruit Punch II..................................................  47  
 Ginger Punch....................................................  47  
 Unfermented Grape Juice.........................................  48  
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
  BREAD AND BREAD MAKING..........................................  49  
  Yeast...........................................................  52  
 Bread Making....................................................  53  
 Baking Bread....................................................  55  
 Care of Bread after Baking......................................  55  
 Water Bread.....................................................  57  
 Milk and Water..................................................  58  
 Entire Wheat Bread..............................................  58  
 Entire Wheat Bread and Flour Bread..............................  59  
 Graham Bread....................................................  59  
 Third Bread.....................................................  59  
 Quaker Oats Bread...............................................  59  
 Rye Bread.......................................................  60  
 Boston Brown Bread..............................................  60  
 Indian Bread....................................................  61  
 Steamed Graham Bread............................................  61  
 Parker House Rolls..............................................  61  
 Salad or Dinner Rolls...........................................  62  
 Sticks..........................................................  62  
 Swedish Rolls...................................................  62  
 Sweet French Rolls..............................................  63  
 Luncheon Rolls..................................................  63  
 French Rusks....................................................  64  
 Rusks (Zwieback)................................................  64  
 German Coffee Bread)............................................  64  
 Coffee Cakes (Brioche)..........................................  65  
 Buns............................................................  65  
 Hot Cross Buns..................................................  66  
 Raised Muffins..................................................  66  
 Grilled.........................................................  66  
 Raised Oatmeal Muffins..........................................  67  
 Squash Biscuits.................................................  67  
 Dry toast.......................................................  67  
 Water Toast.....................................................  67  
 Milk Toast I....................................................  68  
 Milk Toast II...................................................  68  
 Brown Bread Milk Toast..........................................  68  
 Cream Toast.....................................................  68  
 Tomato Cream Toast..............................................  68  
 German Toast....................................................  69  
 Brewis..........................................................  69  
 Bread for Garnishing............................................  69  
 Uses for Stale Bread............................................  69  
 
 CHAPTER V. 
  BISCUITS, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND SHORTCAKES.......................  70  
 BATTERS, SPONGES, AND DOUGHS....................................  70  
  Baking Powder Biscuit I.........................................  70  
 Baking Powder Biscuit II........................................  71  
 Emergency Biscuit...............................................  71  
 Fruit Rolls (Pin Wheel Biscuits)................................  71  
 One Egg Muffins I...............................................  71  
 One Egg Muffins II..............................................  72  
 Twin Mountain Muffins...........................................  72  
 Queen of Muffins................................................  72  
 Berry Muffins I.................................................  72  
 Berry Muffins II................................................  73  
 Rice Muffins....................................................  73  
 Oatmeal Muffins.................................................  73  
 Quaker Muffins..................................................  73  
 Graham Muffins I................................................  74  
 Graham Muffins II...............................................  74  
 Rye Muffins I...................................................  74  
 Rye Muffins II..................................................  74  
 Corn Meal Gems..................................................  74  
 Berkshire Muffins...............................................  75  
 Golden Corn Cake................................................  75  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Corn Cake (Sweetened with Molasses).............................  75  
 White Corn Cake.................................................  75  
 Susie's Spider Corn Cake........................................  76  
 Pop-overs.......................................................  76  
 Graham Pop-overs................................................  76  
 Breakfast Puffs.................................................  76  
 Fadges..........................................................  77  
 Maryland Biscuit................................................  77  
  GRIDDLE CAKES...................................................  77  
  Sour Milk Griddle Cakes.........................................  77  
 Sweet Milk Griddle Cakes........................................  77  
 Entire Wheat Griddle Cakes......................................  78  
 Corn Griddle Cakes..............................................  78  
 Rice Griddle Cakes I............................................  78  
 Rice Griddle Cakes II...........................................  78  
 Bread Griddle Cakes.............................................  79  
 Buckwheat Cakes.................................................  79  
 Waffles.........................................................  79  
 Rice Waffles....................................................  80  
 Virginia Waffles................................................  80  
 Raised Waffles..................................................  80  
 Fried Drop Cakes................................................  81  
 Rye Drops Cakes.................................................  81  
 Doughnuts I.....................................................  81  
 Doughnuts II....................................................  82  
 Raised Doughnuts................................................  82  
 Crullers........................................................  83  
 Strawberry Short Cake I.........................................  83  
 Strawberry Short Cake II........................................  83  
 Rich Strawberry Short Cake......................................  84  
 Fruit Short Cake................................................  84  
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
  CEREALS.........................................................  85  
  Table Showing Composition.......................................  85  
 Table for Cooking Cereals.......................................  87  
 Oatmeal Mush with Apples........................................  87  
 Cereal with Fruit...............................................  87  
 Fried Mushes....................................................  88  
 Fried Corn Meal Mush. or Fried Hominy...........................  88  
 Boiled Rice.....................................................  88  
 Steamed Rice....................................................  88  
 Rice with Cheese................................................  89  
 Rice à la Riston................................................  89  
 Turkish Pilaf I.................................................  89  
 Turkish Pilaf II................................................  90  
 Boiled Macaroni.................................................  90  
 Macaroni with White Sauce.......................................  90  
 Baked Macaroni..................................................  90  
 Baked Macaroni with Cheese......................................  90  
 Macaroni with Tomato Sauce......................................  91  
 Macaroni à l'Italienne..........................................  91  
 Macaroni à la Milanaise.........................................  91  
 Spaghetti.......................................................  91  
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
  EGGS............................................................  92  
  Composition.....................................................  92  
 Boiled Eggs.....................................................  93  
 Dropped Eggs (Poached)..........................................  93  
 Eggs à la Finnoise..............................................  94  
 Eggs à la Suisse................................................  94  
 Baked or Shirred Eggs...........................................  94  
 Scrambled Eggs..................................................  95  
 Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce................................  95  
 Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast...............................  95  
 Eggs à la Buckingham............................................  95  
 Buttered Eggs...................................................  95  
 Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes.....................................  96  
 Fried Eggs......................................................  96  
 Eggs à la Goldenrod.............................................  96  
 Eggs au Gratin..................................................  96  
 Eggs in Batter..................................................  96  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Curried Eggs....................................................  97  
 Scalloped Eggs..................................................  97  
 Stuffed Eggs in a Nest..........................................  97  
 Eggs Farci......................................................  97  
 Omelets.........................................................  98  
 Plain Omelet....................................................  98  
 To Fold and Turn an Omelet......................................  98  
 Omelet with Meat or Vegetables..................................  99  
 PAGE 
 Oyster Omelet...................................................  99  
 Orange Omelet...................................................  99  
 Jelly Omelet....................................................  99  
 Bread Omelet....................................................  99  
 French Omelet...................................................  100  
 Spanish Omelet..................................................  100  
 Omelet Rich.....................................................  100  
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
  SOUPS...........................................................  101  
  Soup Making.....................................................  102  
 How to Clear Soup Stock.........................................  105  
 How to Bind Soups...............................................  105  
  SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCK...........................................  106  
  Brown Soup Stock................................................  106  
 Bouillon........................................................  106  
 Macaroni Soup...................................................  107  
 Julienne Soup...................................................  107  
 Tomato Soup with Stock..........................................  107  
 Turkish Soup....................................................  108  
 Crécy Soup......................................................  108  
 Ox-tail Soup....................................................  108  
 White Soup Stock I................... ...........................  109  
 White Soup Stock II.............................................  109  
 White Soup Stock III............................................  109  
 White Soup......................................................  109  
 Chicken Soup....................................................  110  
 Turkey Soup.....................................................  110  
 Hygienic Soup...................................................  110  
 Farina Soup.....................................................  110  
 Spring Soup.....................................................  111  
 Duchess Soup....................................................  111  
 Potage à la Reine...............................................  111  
 St. Germain Soup................................................  112  
 Imperial Soup...................................................  112  
 Veal and Sage Soup..............................................  112  
 Asparagus Soup..................................................  113  
 Cream Of Celery Soup............................................  113  
 Spinach Soup....................................................  113  
 Cream of Lettuce Soup...........................................  114  
 Cream of Watercress Soup........................................  114  
 Cream of Cauliflower Soup.......................................  114  
 String Bean Soup................................................  115  
 Chestnut Purée..................................................  115  
 Mulligatawny Soup...............................................  115  
 Mock Turtle Soup................................................  116  
 Consommé........................................................  116  
 Consommé à la Royal.............................................  117  
 Consommé au Parmesan............................................  117  
 Consommé aux Pàtes..............................................  117  
 Consommé Colbert................................................  117  
 Consommé with Vegetables........................................  117  
 Consommé Princess...............................................  117  
  SOUP WITH FISH STOCK............................................  117  
  Clam Bouillon...................................................  117  
 Oyster Stew.....................................................  118  
 Scallop Stew....................................................  118  
 Oyster Soup.....................................................  118  
 French Oyster Soup..............................................  118  
 Oyster Gumbo....................................................  119  
 Clam Soup with Poached Eggs.....................................  119  
 Clam and Oyster Soup............................................  119  
 Cream of Clam Soup..............................................  120  
 Lobster Bisque..................................................  120  
 
 

 
 CHAPTER IX. 
  SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK.............................................  121  
  PAGE 
 Black Bean Soup.................................................  121  
 Baked Bean Soup.................................................  122  
 Cream of Lima Bean Soup.........................................  122  
 Celery Soup.....................................................  122  
 Corn Soup.......................................................  123  
 Halibut Soup....................................................  123  
 Pea Soup........................................................  123  
 Split Pea Soup..................................................  124  
 Kornlet Soup....................................................  124  
 Potato Soup.....................................................  124  
 Swiss Potato Soup...............................................  125  
 Salmon Soup.....................................................  125  
 Squash Soup.....................................................  125  
 Tomato Soup.....................................................  125  
 Cream of Tomato Soup (Mock Bisque)..............................  126  
 Vegetable Soup..................................................  126  
  CHOWDERS........................................................  127  
  Corn Chowder....................................................  127  
 Fish Chowder....................................................  127  
 Connecticut Chowder.............................................  128  
 Clam Chowder....................................................  128  
 Lobster Chowder.................................................  129  
 
 CHAPTER X. 
  SOUP GARNISHINGS AND FORCE-MEATS................................  130  
  Crisp Crackers..................................................  130  
 Croûtons (Duchess Crusts).......................................  130  
 Imperial Sticks.................................................  130  
 Egg Balls.......................................................  130  
 Egg Custard.....................................................  130  
 Royal Custard...................................................  131  
 Noodles.........................................................  131  
 Fritter Beans...................................................  131  
 Pâte au Chou....................................................  132  
 Parmesan Pâte au Chou...........................................  132  
 White Bait Garnish..............................................  132  
 Fish Force-meat.................................................  132  
 Clam Force-meat.................................................  132  
 Salmon Force-meat...............................................  133  
 Oyster Force-meat...............................................  133  
 Chicken Force-meat I............................................  133  
 Chicken Force-meat II...........................................  133  
 Quenelles.......................................................  134  
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
  FISH............................................................  135  
 WHITE AND RED BLOODED FISH......................................  136  
 SHELLFISH.......................................................  139  
  I. Bivalve Mollusks.............................................  139  
 II. Crustaceans.................................................  141  
  To Prepare Fish for Cooking.....................................  144  
  WAYS OF COOKING FISH............................................  145  
 TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH USED FOR FOOD.....  147  
  Boiled Haddock..................................................  148  
 Boiled Salmon...................................................  148  
 Boiled Scrod....................................................  148  
 Broiled Chicken Halibut.........................................  148  
 Broiled Swordfish...............................................  148  
 Broiled Shad Roe................................................  148  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Baked Halibut with Stuffing.....................................  148  
 Fish Stuffing I.................................................  149  
 Fish Stuffing II................................................  149  
 Baked Bluefish..................................................  150  
 Bluefish à l'Italienne..........................................  150  
 Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing..................................  150  
 Oyster Stuffing.................................................  150  
 Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing..............................  150  
 Baked Halibut with Tomato Stuffing..............................  151  
 Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce................................  151  
 Baked Mackerel..................................................  151  
 Planked Shad or Whitefish.......................................  152  
 Baked Stuffed Smelts............................................  152  
 Baked Shad Roe with Tomato Sauce................................  152  
 Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut................................  152  
 Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce.............................  153  
 Halibut à la Poulette....................................  153  
 Halibut à la Rarebit.....................................  154  
 Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut...................................  154  
 Fried Cod Steaks................................................  154  
 Fried Smelts....................................................  154  
 Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder............................  155  
 Fried Eels......................................................  155  
 Fried Stuffed Smelts............................................  155  
 Fried Shad Roe..................................................  156  
 Fried Soft Shell Crabs..........................................  156  
 Frogs' Hind Legs................................................  156  
 Terrapin........................................................  156  
 Washington Terrapin.............................................  157  
 Terrapin à la Baltimore.........................................  157  
 Terrapin à la Maryland..........................................  157  
  WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH...........................  158  
  Fish à la Crême.................................................  158  
 Turban of Fish..................................................  158  
 Fish Hash.......................................................  158  
 Fish Croquettes.................................................  159  
 Scalloped Cod...................................................  159  
 Salmon Box......................................................  159  
  WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH.......................................  159  
  Creamed Salt Codfish............................................  159  
 Fish Balls......................................................  160  
 Salted Codfish..................................................  160  
 Toasted Salt Fish...............................................  160  
 Baked Finnan Haddie.............................................  160  
 Broiled Finnan Haddie...........................................  161  
  WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH.......................................  161  
  Oysters on the Half Shell.......................................  161  
 Raw Oysters.....................................................  161  
 Panned Oysters..................................................  161  
 Fancy Roast.....................................................  161  
 Oyster Fricassee................................................  162  
 Creamed Oysters.................................................  162  
 Oysters in Brown Sauce..........................................  162  
 Broiled Oysters.................................................  163  
 Oyster Toast....................................................  163  
 Oysters and Macaroni............................................  163  
 Scalloped Oysters...............................................  163  
 Sautéd Oysters..................................................  164  
 Fried Oysters...................................................  164  
 Fried Oysters in Batter.........................................  164  
 Batter..........................................................  164  
 Little Neck Clams...............................................  164  
 Steamed Clams...................................................  164  
 Roasted Clams...................................................  164  
 Fried Scallops..................................................  165  
 Plain Lobster...................................................  165  
 Fried Lobster...................................................  165  
 Buttered Lobster................................................  166  
 Scalloped Lobster...............................................  166  
 Devilled Lobster................................................  167  
 Curried Lobster.................................................  167  
 Lobster Farci...................................................  167  
 Stuffed Lobster à la Béchamel...................................  167  
 Broiled Live Lobster............................................  168  
 Lobster à la Américaine.........................................  168  
 
 

 CHAPTER XII. 
  BEEF............................................................  169  
 DIVISION AND WAYS OF COOKING A SIDE OF BEEF.....................  172  
 The effect of Different Temperatures on the Cooking of Meat.....  173  
  TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF MEATS..............................  175  
  PAGE 
 Broiled Beefsteak...............................................  176  
 Beefsteak with Maître d'Hôtel Butter............................. 177  
 Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce...........................  177  
 Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce................  177  
 Beefsteak with Oyster Blanke t...................................  177  
 Broiled Fillets of Beef.........................................  177  
 Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée.......................  177  
 Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro.................  177  
 Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trintion...............  178  
 Broiled Meat Cakes..............................................  178  
 Hamburg Steaks..................................................  178  
 Cannelon of Beef................................................  178  
 Roast Beef......................................................  178  
 Yorkshire Pudding...............................................  179  
 Larded Fillet of Fillet of Beef.................................  180  
 Braised Beef....................................................  181  
 Beef à la Mode..................................................  181  
 Beef Stew with Dumplings........................................  182  
 Corned Beef.....................................................  183  
 Boiled Dinner...................................................  184  
 Boiled Tongue...................................................  184  
 Braised Tongue..................................................  184  
 Broiled Liver...................................................  185  
 Liver and Bacon.................................................  185  
 Bacon...........................................................  185  
 Braised Liver...................................................  185  
 Broiled Tripe...................................................  186  
 Tripe in Batter.................................................  186  
 Lyonnaise Tripe.................................................  186  
 Tripe à la Creole...............................................  186  
 Tripe à la Provençale...........................................  187  
 Calf's Head à la Terrapin.......................................  187  
 Heart...........................................................  187  
  WAYS OF WARMING OVER BEEF.......................................  187  
  Roast Beef with Gravy...........................................  187  
 Cottage Pie.....................................................  188  
 Beefsteak Pie...................................................  188  
 Cecils with Tomato Sauce........................................  188  
 Corned Beef Hash................................................  188  
 Corned Beef Hash with Beets.....................................  189  
 Dried Beef with Cream...........................................  189  
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
  LAMB AND MUTTON.................................................  190  
  Broiled Lamb or Mutton Chops....................................  192  
 Pan-broiled Chops...............................................  192  
 Breaded Mutton Chops............................................  192  
 Chops à la Signora..............................................  193  
 Chops en Papillote..............................................  193  
 Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon...................................  194  
 Boiled Leg of Mutton............................................  194  
 Braised Leg of Mutton...........................................  194  
 Stuffing........................................................  195  
 Roast Lamb......................................................  195  
 Saddle of Mutton................................................  195  
 Crown of Lamb...................................................  196  
 Mutton of Curry.................................................  196  
 Fricassee of Lamb with Brown Gravy..............................  196  
 Irish Stew with Dumplings.......................................  197  
 Scotch Broth....................................................  197  
 Lambs' Kidneys I................................................  197  
 Lambs' Kidneys II...............................................  198  
 
 

 WAYS OF WARMING OVER MUTTON AND LAMB............................  198  
  PAGE 
 Minced Lamb on Toast............................................  198  
 Scalloped Lamb..................................................  198  
 Blanquette of Lamb..............................................  199  
 PAGE 
 Salmi of Lamb...................................................  199  
 Casserole of Rice and Meat......................................  199  
 Breast of Lamb..................................................  200  
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
  VEAL............................................................  201  
  Veal Cutlets....................................................  202  
 Fricassee of Veal...............................................  202  
 Loin of Veal à la Jardinière....................................  203  
 Braised Shoulder of Veal........................................  203  
 Roast Veal......................................................  203  
 Fricandeau Veal.................................................  203  
 India Curry.....................................................  204  
 Veal Birds......................................................  204  
 Veal Loaf I.....................................................  204  
 Veal Loaf II....................................................  205  
  WAYS OF WARMING OVER VEAL.......................................  205  
  Minced Veal on Toast............................................  205  
 Blanquette of Veal..............................................  205  
 Ragout of Veal..................................................  205  
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
  SWEETBREADS.....................................................  206  
  Broiled Sweetbreads.............................................  206  
 Creamed Sweetbreads.............................................  207  
 Creamed Sweetbreads and Chicken.................................  207  
 Sweetbread à la Poulette.................................  207  
 Larded Sweetbread...............................................  207  
 Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips..........................  207  
 Sweetbread with Tomato Sauce....................................  207  
 Sweetbread and Bacon............................................  207  
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
  PORK............................................................  208  
  Pork Chops......................................................  209  
 Pork Chops with Fried Apples....................................  209  
 Roast pork......................................................  209  
 Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes............................  209  
 Breakfast Bacon.................................................  209  
 Fried Salt Pork with Codfish....................................  210  
 Fried Ham and Eggs..............................................  210  
 Boiled Ham......................................................  210  
 Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce..................................  211  
 Westphalian Ham.................................................  211  
 Broiled Pigs' Feet..............................................  211  
 Fried Pigs' Feet................................................  211  
 Sausages........................................................  211  
 Boston Baked Beans..............................................  211  
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
  POULTRY AND GAME................................................  213  
  Broiled Chicken.................................................  219  
 Boiled Fowl.....................................................  219  
 Boiled Capon with Cauliflower Sauce.............................  219  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Chicken à la Providence.........................................  220  
 Roast Chicken...................................................  220  
 Stuffing I......................................................  220  
 Stuffing II.....................................................  221  
 Gravy...........................................................  221  
 Braised Chicken.................................................  221  
 Chicken Fricassee...............................................  221  
 Fried Chicken...................................................  222  
 Maryland Chicken................................................  222  
 Chicken à la Merango............................................  222  
 Sauce...........................................................  223  
 Baked Chicken...................................................  223  
 Chicken Gumbo...................................................  223  
 Chicken Stew....................................................  223  
 Chicken Pie.....................................................  224  
 Chicken Curry...................................................  224  
 Jellied Chicken.................................................  225  
 Chickens' Livers with Madeira Sauce.............................  225  
 Chickens' Livers with Bacon.....................................  225  
 Sautéd Chickens' Livers..................................  225  
 Chickens Livers with Curry......................................  226  
 Boiled Turkey...................................................  226  
 Roast Turkey....................................................  226  
 Chestnut Stuffing...............................................  227  
 Gravy...........................................................  227  
 Chestnut Gravy..................................................  227  
 To Carve a Turkey...............................................  227  
 Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing................................  228  
 Potato Stuffing.................................................  228  
 To Truss a Goose................................................  228  
 Roast Wild Duck.................................................  229  
 Braised Duck....................................................  229  
 Broiled Quail...................................................  229  
 Roast Quail.....................................................  229  
 Larded Grouse...................................................  229  
 Broiled or Roasted Plover.......................................  230  
 Potted Pigeons..................................................  230  
 Stuffing........................................................  230  
 Broiled Venison Steak...........................................  230  
 Venison Cutlets.................................................  231  
 Roast Leg of Venison............................................  231  
 Saddle of Venison...............................................  231  
  WAYS OF WARMING OVER POULTRY AND GAME...........................  231  
  Creamed Chicken.................................................  231  
 Creamed Chicken with Mushrooms..................................  231  
 Chicken with Potato Border......................................  231  
 Chicken in Baskets..............................................  231  
 Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole..............................  232  
 Luncheon Chicken................................................  232  
 Blanquette of Chicken...........................................  232  
 Scalloped Chicken...............................................  233  
 Mock Terrapin...................................................  233  
 Chicken Chartreuse..............................................  233  
 Chicken Soufflé.................................................  233  
 Chicken Hollandaise.............................................  234  
 Scalloped Turkey................................................  234  
 Minced Turkey...................................................  234  
 Salmi of Duck...................................................  235  
 Spanish Sauce...................................................  235  
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
  FISH AND MEAT SAUCES............................................  236  
  Thin White Sauce................................................  237  
 Cream Sauce.....................................................  237  
 White Sauce I...................................................  237  
 White Sauce II..................................................  237  
 Thick White Sauce for Cutlets and Croquettes....................  237  
 Sauce Allemande.................................................  237  
 Velouté Sauce...................................................  238  
 Soubise Sauce...................................................  238  
 Drawn Butter Sauce..............................................  238  
 Shrimp Sauce....................................................  238  
 Caper Sauce.....................................................  238  
 Egg Sauce I.....................................................  238  
 Egg Sauce II....................................................  239  
 Brown Sauce I...................................................  239  
 Brown Sauce II (Espagnole)......................................  239  
 Brown Mushroom Sauce I..........................................  239  
 Brown Mushroom Sauce II.........................................  239  
 Sauce Piquante..................................................  240  
 Olive Sauce.....................................................  240  
 Orange Sauce....................................................  240  
 Sauce à l'Italienne.............................................  240  
 
 

 Champagne Sauce.................................................  241  
 Tomato Sauce I (without Stock)..................................  241  
 Tomato Sauce II.................................................  241  
 Tomato Sauce III................................................  241  
 Tomato and Mushroom Sauce.......................................  242  
 Tomato Cream Sauce..............................................  242  
 Spinach Sauce...................................................  242  
 Béchamel Sauce..................................................  243  
 Yellow Béchamel Sauce...........................................  243  
 Oyster Sauce....................................................  243  
 Cucumber Sauce..................................................  243  
 Celery Sauce....................................................  243  
 Suprême Sauce...................................................  244  
 Anchovy Sauce...................................................  244  
 Maître D'Hôtel Butter...........................................  244  
 Tartar Sauce....................................................  244  
 Lemon Butter....................................................  244  
 Anchovy Butter..................................................  244  
 Lobster Butter..................................................  245  
 Hollandaise Sauce I.............................................  245  
 Hollandaise Sauce II............................................  245  
 Lobster Sauce I.................................................  245  
 Lobster Sauce II................................................  246  
 Sauce Béarnaise.................................................  246  
 Sauce Trianon...................................................  246  
 Sauce Figaro....................................................  246  
 Horseradish Sauce I.............................................  246  
 Horseradish Sauce II............................................  247  
 Bread Sauce.....................................................  247  
 Rice Sauce......................................................  247  
 Cauliflower Sauce...............................................  247  
 Mint Sauce......................................................  248  
 Currant Jelly Sauce.............................................  248  
 Port Wine Sauce.................................................  248  
 Sauce Tartare...................................................  248  
 Sauce Tyrolienne................................................  249  
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
  VEGETABLES......................................................  250  
  Table Showing Composition of....................................  250  
 Care of.........................................................  251  
 Cooking Vegetables..............................................  252  
 Mushrooms and Truffles..........................................  252  
 Truffles........................................................  253  
 Artichokes......................................................  253  
 Boiled Artichokes...............................................  253  
 Fried Artichokes................................................  254  
 Artichoke Bottoms...............................................  254  
 Stuffed Artichokes..............................................  254  
 Asparagus.......................................................  254  
 Boiled Asparagus................................................  254  
 Asparagus on Toast..............................................  255  
 Asparagus in White Sauce........................................  255  
 Asparagus à la Hollandaise......................................  255  
 Asparagus in Crusts.............................................  255  
 Beans...........................................................  255  
 String Beans....................................................  256  
 Shell Beans.....................................................  256  
 Cream of Lima Beans.............................................  256  
 Boiled Beets....................................................  256  
 Sugared Beets...................................................  256  
 Pickled Beets...................................................  256  
 Brussels Sprouts................................................  257  
 Brussels Sprouts in White Sauce.................................  257  
 Cabbage.........................................................  257  
 Boiled Cabbage..................................................  257  
 Escalloped Cabbage..............................................  257  
 German Cabbage..................................................  258  
 Cole-Slaw.......................................................  258  
 Hot Slaw........................................................  258  
 Carrots.........................................................  258  
 Carrots and Peas............... .................................  258  
 Cauliflower.....................................................  259  
 Creamed Cauliflower.............................................  259  
 Cauliflower à la Hollandaise....................................  259  
 Cauliflower au Gratin...........................................  259  
 Cauliflower à la Parmesan.......................................  259  
 Celery..........................................................  259  
 Celery in White Sauce...........................................  260  
 Chiccory or Endive..............................................  260  
 Corn............................................................  260  
 Boiled Green Corn...............................................  260  
 Succotash.......................................................  261  
 Corn Oysters....................................................  261  
 Corn à la Southern..............................................  261  
 Chestnuts.......................................................  261  
 Chestnut Purée..................................................  261  
 Cucumbers.......................................................  261  
 Sliced Cucumbers................................................  261  
 Boiled Cucumbers................................................  262  
 Fried Cucumbers.................................................  262  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Stuffed Cucumbers...............................................  262  
 Fried Egg Plant I...............................................  262  
 Fried Egg Plant II..............................................  262  
 Stuffed Egg Plant...............................................  263  
 Greens..........................................................  263  
 Boiled Beet Greens..............................................  263  
 Dandelions......................................................  263  
 Lettuce.........................................................  263  
 Onions..........................................................  264  
 Boiled Onions...................................................  264  
 Onions in Cream.................................................  265  
 Scalloped Onions................................................  265  
 Fried Onions....................................................  265  
 Stuffed Onions..................................................  265  
 Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify)..................................  265  
 Salsify Fritters................................................  266  
 Parsnips........................................................  266  
 Parsnips with Drawn Butter Sauce................................  266  
 Parsnip Fritters................................................  266  
 Peas............................................................  266  
 Boiled Peas.....................................................  267  
 Creamed Peas....................................................  267  
 Stuffed Peppers I...............................................  267  
 Stuffed Peppers II..............................................  268  
 Pumpkins........................................................  268  
 Radishes........................................................  268  
 Spinach.........................................................  268  
 Boiled Spinach..................................................  268  
 Spinach à la Béchamel...........................................  269  
 PAGE 
 Squash .........................................................  269  
 Boiled Summer Squash............................................  269  
 Fried Summer Squash I...........................................  270  
 Fried Summer Squash II..........................................  270  
 Steamed Winter Squash...........................................  270  
 Boiled Winter...................................................  270  
 Baked Winter Squash I...........................................  270  
 Baked Winter Squash II..........................................  270  
 Tomatoes........................................................  271  
 Sliced Tomatoes.................................................  271  
 Stewed Tomatoes.................................................  271  
 Scalloped Tomatoes..............................................  271  
 Broiled Tomatoes................................................  271  
 Tomatoes à la Crême.............................................  272  
 Devilled Tomatoes...............................................  272  
 Baked Tomatoes..................................................  272  
 Stuffed Tomatoes................................................  272  
 Turnips.........................................................  273  
 Mashed Turnips..................................................  273  
 Creamed Turnips.................................................  273  
 Creamed Turnip Croquettes.......................................  273  
 Stewed Mushrooms................................................  273  
 Stewed Mushrooms in Cream.......................................  274  
 Broiled Mushrooms...............................................  274  
 Baked Mushrooms in Cream........................................  274  
 Sautéd Mushrooms................................................  274  
 Mushrooms à la Sabine...........................................  275  
 Mushrooms à l'Algonquin.........................................  275  
 Stuffed Mushrooms...............................................  275  
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
  POTATOES........................................................  276  
  Composition.....................................................  276  
 Sweet Potatoes..................................................  277  
 Baked Potatoes..................................................  277  
 Boiled Potatoes.................................................  277  
 Riced Potatoes..................................................  278  
 Mashed Potatoes.................................................  278  
 Potato Omelet...................................................  278  
 Potato Border...................................................  278  
 Escalloped Potatoes.............................................  278  
 Potatoes à la Hollandaise.......................................  278  
 Potatoes Baked in a Half Shell..................................  279  
 Duchess Potatoes................................................  279  
 Maître d'Hôtel Potatoes.........................................  279  
 Maître d'Hôtel Butter...........................................  279  
 Franconia Potatoes..............................................  279  
 Brabant Potatoes................................................  280  
 Potato Balls....................................................  280  
 Fried Potatoes..................................................  280  
 Shadow Potatoes (Saratoga Chips)................................  280  
 Shredded Potatoes...............................................  280  
 French Fried Potatoes...........................................  281  
 Potato Marbles..................................................  281  
 Fried Potato balls..............................................  281  
 Potato Fritters.................................................  281  
 Potato Curls....................................................  281  
 Potato Croquettes...............................................  282  
 French Potato Croquettes........................................  282  
 Potato Apples...................................................  283  
 Potatoes en Surprise............................................  283  
 
 

 SWEET POTATOES..................................................  283  
  PAGE 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes............................................  283  
 Boiled Sweet Potatoes...........................................  283  
 Mashed Sweet Potatoes...........................................  283  
 PAGE 
 Glazed Sweet Potatoes...........................................  284  
 Sweet Potato Balls..............................................  284  
 Sweet Potato Croquettes.........................................  284  
  WARMED OVER POTATOES............................................  284  
  Potato Cakes....................................................  284  
 Creamed Potatoes................................................  284  
 Potatoes au Gratin..............................................  285  
 Delmonico Potatoes..............................................  285  
 Hashed Brown Potatoes...........................................  285  
 Sautéd Potatoes.................................................  285  
 Chartreuse Potatoes.............................................  285  
 Lyonnaise Potatoes I............................................  285  
 Lyonnaise Potatoes II...........................................  286  
 Oak Hill Potatoes...............................................  286  
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
  SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS.......................... ............  287  
 SALAD DRESSINGS.................................................  288  
  French Dressing.................................................  288  
 Cream Dressing I................................................  288  
 Cream Dressing II...............................................  289  
 Boiled Dressing.................................................  289  
 German Dressing.................................................  289  
 Chicken Salad Dressing..........................................  289  
 Oil Dressing I..................................................  290  
 Oil Dressing II.................................................  290  
 Mayonnaise Dressing I...........................................  290  
 Mayonnaise Dressing II..........................................  291  
 Cream Mayonnaise Dressing.......................................  291  
 Colored Mayonnaise Dressing.....................................  291  
 Potato Mayonnaise...............................................  291  
  SALADS..........................................................  292  
  Dressed Lettuce.................................................  292  
 Lettuce and Cucumber............................................  292  
 Lettuce and Radish..............................................  292  
 Lettuce and Tomato..............................................  292  
 Dressed Watercress..............................................  292  
 Watercress and Cucumber.........................................  292  
 Cucumber and Tomato.............................................  293  
 Dressed Celery..................................................  293  
 Celery and Cabbage..............................................  293  
 String Bean.....................................................  293  
 Potato..........................................................  294  
 Potato and Celery...............................................  294  
 Macédoine.......................................................  295  
 Stuffed Tomato..................................................  295  
 Tomato Jelly....................................................  296  
 Salad à la Russe................................................  296  
 Spinach.........................................................  296  
 Egg Salad I.....................................................  296  
 Egg Salad II....................................................  297  
 Lenten..........................................................  297  
 Cheese..........................................................  297  
 Nut.............................................................  297  
 Nut Cherry......................................................  297  
 Banana..........................................................  298  
 Salmon..........................................................  298  
 Shrimp..........................................................  298  
 Sardine.........................................................  298  
 Lobster I.......................................................  298  
 Lobster II......................................................  299  
 Lobster III.....................................................  299  
 Chicken I.......................................................  300  
 Chicken II......................................................  301  
 Chicken and Oyster..............................................  301  
 Sweetbread and Cucumber.........................................  301  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXII. 
  ENTRéES.........................................................  302  
 BATTERS AND FRITTERS............................................  302  
  PAGE 
 Batter I.................................................. ......  302  
 Batter II.......................................................  302  
 Batter III......................................................  302  
 Batter IV.......................................................  302  
 Batter V........................................................  303  
 Apple Fritters I................................................  303  
 Apple Fritters II...............................................  303  
 Apple Fritters III..............................................  303  
 Banana Fritters I...............................................  303  
 Banana Fritters II..............................................  304  
 Orange Fritters.................................................  304  
 Fruit Fritters..................................................  304  
 Cauliflower Fritters............................................  304  
 Fried Celery....................................................  305  
 Tomato Fritters.................................................  305  
 Cherry Fritters.................................................  305  
 Maraschino Sauce................................................  306  
 Farina Cakes with Jelly.........................................  306  
 Gnocchi à la Romaine............................................  306  
 Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce...........................  306  
 Queen Fritters..................................................  307  
 Sponge Fritters.................................................  307  
 Croquettes......................................................  308  
 Cheese Croquettes...............................................  308  
 Chestnut Croquettes.............................................  308  
 Rice Croquettes with Jelly......................................  308  
 Sweet Rice Croquettes...........................................  309  
 Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes..................................  309  
 Salmon Croquettes...............................................  310  
 Salmon Cutlets..................................................  310  
 Lobster Croquettes..............................................  310  
 Lobster Cutlets.................................................  310  
 Lamb Croquettes.................................................  311  
 Veal Croquettes.................................................  311  
 Chicken Croquettes I............................................  312  
 Chicken Croquettes II...........................................  312  
 Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes.................................  312  
 Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria............................  313  
 PAGE 
 Swedish Timbales................................................  313  
 Strawberry Baskets..............................................  315  
 Rice Timbales...................................................  315  
 Macaroni Timbales...............................................  315  
 Spaghetti Timbales..............................................  315  
 Halibut Timbales................................................  315  
 Lobster Timbales................................................  316  
 Lobster Cream...................................................  316  
 Chicken Timbales................................................  317  
 Suprême of Chicken..............................................  317  
 Devilled Oysters................................................  317  
 Devilled Crabs..................................................  318  
 Fried Oyster Crabs..............................................  318  
 Cutlets of Chicken..............................................  319  
 Fillets of Game.................................................  319  
 Chickens' Livers en Brochette...................................  319  
 Cheese Fondue...................................................  320  
 Cheese Soufflés.................................................  320  
 Watrouskis......................................................  320  
 Compote of Rice with Peaches....................................  321  
 Compote of Rice with Pears......................................  321  
 Croustades of Bread.............................................  321  
 Rice Croustades.................................................  321  
 Soufflé au Rhum.................................................  322  
 Omelet Soufflé..................................................  322  
 Patties.........................................................  322  
 Bouchées........................................................  322  
 Vol-au-vents....................................................  322  
 Rissoles........................................................  323  
 Cheese Soufflé with Pastry......................................  323  
 Aspic Jelly.....................................................  323  
 Tomatoes in Aspic...............................................  324  
 Tongue in Aspic.................................................  324  
 Birds in Aspic..................................................  325  
 Egg Custard for Decorating......................................  325  
 Stuffing for Chicken in Aspic...................................  325  
 Chaud-froid Chicken.............................................  326  
 Rum Cakes.......................................................  326  
 Rum Sauce.......................................................  326  
 Flûtes..........................................................  327  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXIII. 
  HOT PUDDINGS....................................................  328  
  PAGE 
 Rice pudding....................................................  328  
 Poor Man's Pudding..............................................  328  
 Indian Pudding..................................................  328  
 Cerealine Pudding (Mock Indian).................................  329  
 Apple Tapioca...................................................  329  
 Tapioca Custard Pudding.........................................  329  
 Peach Tapioca...................................................  329  
 Scalloped Apples..................... ...........................  330  
 Bread Pudding...................................................  330  
 Cracker Custard Pudding.........................................  330  
 Bread and Butter Pudding........................................  331  
 Chocolate Bread Pudding.........................................  331  
 Cottage Pudding.................................................  331  
 Strawberry Cottage Pudding......................................  332  
 Orange Puffs....................................................  332  
 Custard Soufflé.................................................  332  
 Lemon Soufflé...................................................  333  
 PAGE 
 Fruit Soufflé...................................................  333  
 Spanish Soufflé.................................................  333  
 Chestnut Soufflé................................................  333  
 Steamed Apple Pudding...........................................  334  
 Steamed Blueberry Pudding.......................................  334  
 Steamed Cranberry Pudding.......................................  334  
 Ginger Pudding..................................................  335  
 Harvard Pudding.................................................  335  
 Swiss Pudding...................................................  335  
 Snow Balls......................................................  336  
 Graham Pudding..................................................  336  
 St. James Pudding...............................................  336  
 Suet Pudding....................................................  337  
 Thanksgiving Pudding............................................  337  
 Hunters' Pudding................................................  337  
 French Fruit Pudding............................................  338  
 English Plum Pudding............................................  338  
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
  PUDDING SAUCES..................................................  339  
  Lemon Sauce I...................................................  339  
 Lemon Sauce II..................................................  339  
 Vanilla Sauce...................................................  339  
 Molasses Sauce..................................................  339  
 Cream Sauce I...................................................  340  
 Cream Sauce II..................................................  340  
 Yellow Sauce I..................................................  340  
 Yellow Sauce II............................................ .....  340  
 Orange Sauce....................................................  340  
 Strawberry Sauce................................................  341  
 Creamy Sauce I..................................................  341  
 Creamy Sauce II.................................................  341  
 Foamy Sauce I...................................................  341  
 Foamy Sauce II..................................................  341  
 Chocolate Sauce.................................................  342  
 Sabyon Sauce....................................................  342  
 Hard Sauce......................................................  342  
 Sterling Sauce..................................................  342  
 Wine Sauce......................................................  343  
 Brandy Sauce....................................................  343  
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
  COLD DESSERTS..................................................  344  
  Irish Moss Blanc-Mange..........................................  344  
 Chocolate Blanc-Mange...........................................  344  
 Rebecca Pudding.................................................  344  
 Moulded Snow....................................................  345  
 Chocolate Cream.................................................  345  
 Pineapple Pudding...............................................  345  
 Boiled Custard..................................................  345  
 Tipsy Pudding...................................................  346  
 Peach Custard...................................................  346  
 Banana Custard..................................................  346  
 Orange Custard..................................................  346  
 Apple Meringue..................................................  346  
 Apple Snow......................................................  346  
 Prune Whip......................................................  347  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Raspberry Whip..................................................  347  
 Baked Custard...................................................  347  
 Caramel Custard.................................................  348  
 Caramel Sauce...................................................  348  
 Tapioca Pudding.................................................  348  
 Norwegian Prune Pudding.........................................  349  
 Apples in Bloom.................................................  349  
 Neapolitan Baskets..............................................  349  
 Wine Cream......................................................  349  
 Orange Salad....................................................  350  
 Fruit Salad I...................................................  350  
 Fruit Salad II..................................................  350  
 Fruit Salad with Wine Dressing..................................  350  
 Wine Dressing...................................................  350  
 Cream Whips.....................................................  351  
 Lemon Jelly.....................................................  351  
 Orange Jelly....................................................  351  
 Coffee Jelly....................................................  351  
 Cider Jelly.....................................................  351  
 Wine Jelly I....................................................  352  
 Wine Jelly II...................................................  352  
 Russian Jelly...................................................  352  
 Jelly in Glasses................................................  352  
 Jellied Prunes..................................................  353  
 Jellied Walnuts.................................................  353  
 Apricot and Wine Jelly..........................................  353  
 Snow Pudding I..................................................  354  
 PAGE 
 Amber Pudding...................................................  354  
 Snow Pudding II.................................................  354  
 Pudding à la Macédoine..........................................  354  
 Fruit Chartreuse................................................  355  
 Spanish Cream...................................................  355  
 Columbian pudding...............................................  356  
 Macaroon Cream..................................................  356  
 Cold Cabinet Pudding............................................  356  
 Mont Blanc......................................................  357  
 Crême aux Fruits................................................  357  
 To-Whip Cream...................................................  357  
 Charlotte Russe.................................................  359  
 Orange Trifle...................................................  360  
 Banana Cantaloupe...............................................  360  
 Chocolate Charlotte.............................................  361  
 Caramel Charlotte Russe.........................................  361  
 Burnt Almond Charlotte..........................................  361  
 Ginger Cream....................................................  362  
 Orange Charlotte................................................  362  
 Strawberry Sponge...............................................  362  
 Orange Baskets..................................................  362  
 Orange Jelly in Ambush..........................................  363  
 Bavarian Cream (Quick)..........................................  363  
 Strawberry Bavarian Cream.......................................  363  
 Pineapple Bavarian Cream........................................  363  
 Royal Diplomatic Pudding........................................  364  
 Fruit Cream.....................................................   346   
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
  ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS.....................  365  
  How to Freeze Desserts..........................................  366  
 To Line a Mould.................................................  367  
 To Mould Frozen Mixtures........................................  367  
 Lemon Ice.......................................................  367  
 Orange Ice......................................................  367  
 Pomegranate Ice.................................................  368  
 Raspberry Ice........... ........................................  368  
 Strawberry Ice..................................................  368  
 Currant Ice.....................................................  368  
 Raspberry and Currant Ice.......................................  368  
 Crême de Menthe Ice.............................................  368  
 Canton Sherbet..................................................  369  
 Milk Sherbet....................................................  369  
 Pineapple Frappé................................................  369  
 Sorbet...........................................................  369  
 Café Frappé..............................................  370  
 Clam Frappé......................................................  370  
 Frozen Apricots.................................................  370  
 Pineapple Cream.................................................  370  
 Cardinal Punch..................................................  371  
 Punch Hollandaise...............................................  371  
 Victoria Punch..................................................  371  
 London Sherbe...................................................  371  
 Roman Punch.....................................................  371  
 Vanilla Ice Cream I (Philadelphia)..............................  372  
 Vanilla Ice Cream II............................................  372  
 Vanilla Ice Cream Croquettes....................................  372  
 Chocolate Ice Cream I...........................................  372  
 Chocolate Ice Cream II..........................................  373  
 Strawberry Ice Cream............................................  373  
 Pineapple Ice Cream.............................................  373  
 Coffee Ice Cream................................................  373  
 Caramel Ice Cream...............................................  374  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Burnt Almond Ice Cream..........................................  374  
 Brown Bread Ice Cream...........................................  374  
 Bisque Ice Cream................................................  374  
 Macaroon Ice Cream..............................................  374  
 Banana Ice Cream................................................  375  
 Ginger Ice Cream................................................  375  
 Pistachio Ice Cream.............................................  375  
 Pistachio Bisque................................................  375  
 Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream...............................  375  
 Baked Alaska....................................................  375  
 Pudding Glacé...................................................  376  
 Frozen Pudding I................................................  376  
 Frozen Pudding II...............................................  376  
 Delmonico Ice Cream with Angel Food.............................  377  
 Angel Food......................................................  377  
 Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce..................................  377  
 Claret Sauce....................................................  378  
 Café Parfait....................................................  378  
 Italian Meringue................................................  378  
 Bombe Glacée....................................................  378  
 Nesselrode Pudding..............................................  379  
 Strawberry Mousse...............................................  379  
 Coffee Mousse...................................................  379  
 Mousse Marron...................................................  380  
 Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce........................  380  
 Iced Madeira Sauce..............................................  380  
 Demi-glacé aux Fraises...................................  380  
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
  PASTRY................................................... .......  382  
  Puff Paste......................................................  383  
 To Bake Puff Paste..............................................  384  
 Patty Shells....................................................  385  
 Vol-au-vents....................................................  385  
 Plain Paste ....................................................  386  
 Quick Paste.....................................................  386  
 Paste with Lard.................................................  386  
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
  PIES............................................................  388  
  Apple Pie I.....................................................  389  
 Apple Pie II....................................................  389  
 Blackberry Pie..................................................  390  
 Blueberry Pie...................................................  390  
 Cranberry Pie...................................................  390  
 Currant Pie.....................................................  390  
 Cream Pie.......................................................  391  
 Custard Pie.....................................................  391  
 Date Pie........................................................  391  
 Lemon Pie I.....................................................  391  
 Lemon Pie II....................................................  391  
 Lemon Pie III...................................................  392  
 Lemon Pie IV....................................................  392  
 Mince Pies......................................................  393  
 Mince Pie Meat..................................................  393  
 English Mince Meat..............................................  393  
 Mince Meat (without Liquor).....................................  394  
 Mock Mince Pie..................................................  394  
 Peach Pie.......................................................  394  
 Prune Pie.......................................................  394  
 Rhubarb Pie.....................................................  395  
 Squash Pie......................................................  395  
 Pumpkin Pie.....................................................  395  
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
  PASTRY DESSERTS.................................................  396  
  Banbury Tarts...................................................  396  
 Cheese Cakes....................................................  396  
 Cheese Straws...................................................  396  
 Condés..........................................................  397  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Cream Horns.....................................................  397  
 Florentine Meringue.............................................  397  
 Napoleons.......................................................  398  
 Orange Sticks...................................................  398  
 Lemon Sticks....................................................  398  
 PAGE 
 Palm Leaves.....................................................  398  
 Raspberry Puffs.................................................  398  
 Tarts...........................................................  399  
 Polish Tartlets.................................................  399  
  MERINGUES.......................................................  399  
 FOR PIES, PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS.................................  399  
  Meringue I......................................................  400  
 Meringue II.....................................................  400  
 Meringue III....................................................  400  
 Meringues Glacées, or Kisses....................................  400  
 Nut Meringues...................................................  401  
 Meringues (Mushrooms)...........................................  401  
 Meringues Panachées.............................................  401  
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
  GINGERBREADS, COOKIES, AND WAFERS...............................  402  
  Hot Water Gingerbread...........................................  402  
 Sour Milk Gingerbread...........................................  402  
 Soft Molasses Gingerbread.......................................  402  
 Cambridge Gingerbread...........................................  403  
 Soft Sugar Gingerbread..........................................  403  
 Gossamer Gingerbread............................................  403  
 Fairy Gingerbread...............................................  404  
 Hard Sugar Gingerbread..........................................  404  
 Molasses Drop Cakes.............................................  404  
 Ginger Snaps....................................................  405  
 Molasses Cookies................................................  405  
 Soft Molasses Cookies...........................................  405  
 Spice Cookies...................................................  406  
 Scotch Wafers...................................................  406  
 Oatmeal Cookies.................................................  406  
 Vanilla Wafers..................................................  407  
 Cream Cookies...................................................  407  
 Imperial Cookies................................................  407  
 Hermits.........................................................  407  
 Boston Cookies..................................................  408  
 Cocoanut Cream Cookies..........................................  408  
 Peanut Cookies..................................................  408  
 Seed Cakes......................................................  409  
 Chocolate Cookies...............................................  409  
 Sand Tarts......................................................  409  
 Rolled Wafers...................................................  410  
 Almond Wafers...................................................  411  
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
  CAKE............................................................  412  
  Hot Water Sponge Cake...........................................  416  
 Cheap Sponge Cake...............................................  416  
 Cream Sponge Cake...............................................  417  
 Sponge Cake.....................................................  4 17  
 Sunshine Cake...................................................  418  
 Angel Cake......................................................  418  
 Lady Fingers....................................................  418  
 Sponge Drop.....................................................  419  
 Jelly Roll......................................................  419  
 Aunt Caddie's Cake..............................................  419  
 Election Cake...................................................  420  
 One Egg Cake....................................................  420  
 Chocolate Cake..................................................  420  
 Chocolate Nougat Cake...........................................  421  
 Cream Pie I.....................................................  421  
 Cream Pie II....................................................  421  
 Cocoanut Pie....................................................  421  
 Washington Pie..................................................  421  
 Collocate Pie...................................................  422  
 Orange Cake.....................................................  422  
 Quick Cake......................................................  422  
 Boston Favorite Cake............................................  422  
 Cream Cake......................................................  423  
 Currant Cake....................................................  423  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Velvet Cake.....................................................  423  
 Walnut Cake.....................................................  424  
 Spanish Cake....................................................  424  
 Cup Cake........................................................  424  
 Brownies........................................................  424  
 Ribbon Cake.....................................................  425  
 Coffee Cake.....................................................  425  
 Rich Coffee.....................................................  425  
 Dark Fruit Cake.................................................  426  
 Nut Cakes.......................................................  426  
 Snow Cake.......................................................  426  
 Lily Cake.......................................................  426  
 Corn-starch Cake................................................  427  
 Prune Almond Cake...............................................  427  
 Marshmallow Cake................................................  427  
 Fig éclair......................................................  427  
 Banana Cake.....................................................  428  
 PAGE 
 Bride's Cake....................................................  428  
 Light Fruit Cake................................................  428  
 White Nut Cake..................................................  428  
 Golden Cake.....................................................  428  
 Mocha Cake......................................................  429  
 Cream Cakes.....................................................  429  
 French Cream Cakes..............................................  430  
 French Strawberry Cream Cakes...................................  430  
 éclairs.........................................................  430  
 Lemon Queens....................................................  430  
 Queen Cake......................................................  431  
 Pound Cake......................................................  431  
 English Fruit Cake..............................................  431  
 Imperial Cake...................................................  432  
 Wedding Cake....................................................  432  
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
  CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS.....................................  433  
  Cream Filling...................................................  433  
 Chocolate Cream Filling.........................................  433  
 Coffee Cream Filling............................................  433  
 French Cream Filling............................................  433  
 Strawberry Filling..............................................  434  
 Lemon Filling...................................................  434  
 Orange Filling..................................................  434  
 Chocolate Filling...............................................  434  
 Nut or Fruit Filling............................................  434  
 Cocoanut Filling................................................  435  
 Lemon Cocoanut Filling..........................................  435  
 Fig Filling.....................................................  435  
 Marshmallow Paste...............................................  435  
 Pistachio Paste.................................................  435  
 Prune Almond Filling............................................  436  
 Confectioners' Frosting.........................................  436  
 Orange Frosting.................................................  436  
 Gelatine Frosting...............................................  436  
 Plain Frosting..................................................  436  
 Chocolate Frosting..............................................  437  
 White Mountain Frosting.........................................  437  
 Boiled Frosting.................................................  437  
 Boiled Chocolate Frosting.......................................  438  
 Brown Frosting..................................................  438  
 Maple Sugar Frosting............................................  438  
 Cream Maple Sugar Frosting......................................  438  
 Milk Frosting...................................................  438  
 Caramel Frosting................................................  439  
 Opera Caramel Frosting..........................................  439  
 Fondant Icing...................................................  439  
 Ornamental Frosting I...........................................  439  
 Ornamental Frosting II..........................................  440  
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
  FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS.....................................  442  
  Macaroons.......................................................  442  
 Almond Macaroons................................................  443  
 Crescents.......................................................  443  
 Cinnamon Bars...................................................  443  
 Horseshoes......................................................  444  
 Cocoanut Cakes I................................................  444  
 Cocoanut Cakes II...............................................  444  
 Stuffed Dates I.................................................  444  
 Stuffed Dates II................................................  444  
 Salted Almonds I................................................  445  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Salted Almonds II...............................................  445  
 Salted Peanuts..................................................  445  
 Salted Pecans...................................................  445  
 Parisian Sweets.................................................  445  
 Molasses Candy..................................................  445  
 Velvet Molasses Candy...........................................  446  
 Buttercups......................................................  447  
 Vinegar Candy...................................................  447  
 Ice Cream Candy.................................................  447  
 Butter Scotch...................................................  448  
 Butter Taffy....................................................  448  
 Horehound Candy.................................................  448  
 Chocolate Caramels..............................................  449  
 PAGE 
 Nut Chocolate Caramels..........................................  449  
 Peanut Nougat...................................................  449  
 Nut Bar.........................................................  449  
 French Nougat...................................................  450  
 Nougatine Drops.................................................  450  
 Wintergreen Wafers..............................................  450  
 Cocoanut Cream Candy............................................  451  
 Chocolate Cream Candy...........................................  451  
 Maple Sugar Candy...............................................  451  
 Sultana Caramels................................................  452  
 Creamed Walnuts.................................................  452  
 Peppermints.....................................................  453  
  BOILED SUG AR FOR CONFECTIONS....................................  453  
  White Fondant...................................................  453  
 Coffee Fondant..................................................  454  
 Maple Fondant...................................................  454  
 Bonbons.........................................................  454  
 Cream Mints.....................................................  455  
 Cream Nut Bars..................................................  455  
 Dipped Walnuts..................................................  455  
 Tutti-Frutti Candy..............................................  456  
 Glacé Nuts......................................................  456  
 Glacé Fruits....................................................  456  
 Spun Sugar......................................................  457  
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
  SANDWICHES AND CANAPéS..........................................  458  
  Rolled Bread....................................................  458  
 Bread and Butter Folds..........................................  458  
 Lettuce Sandwich................................................  459  
 Egg Sandwiches..................................................  459  
 Sardine Sandwiches..............................................  459  
 Sliced Ham Sandwiches...........................................  459  
 Chopped Ham Sandwiches..........................................  459  
 Anchovy Sandwiches..............................................  459  
 Chicken Sandwiches..............................................  460  
 Lobster Sandwiches..............................................  460  
 Oyster Sandwiches...............................................  460  
 Nut and Cheese Sandwiches.......................................  460  
 Ginger Sandwiches...............................................  460  
 Fruit Sandwiches................................................  460  
 Brown Bread Sandwiches..........................................  460  
 Russian Sandwiches..............................................  461  
 Jelly Sandwiches................................................  461  
 Cheese Wafers...................................................  461  
 Canapés.........................................................  461  
 Cheese Canapés I................................................  461  
 Cheese Canapés II...............................................  462  
 Sardine Canapés.................................................  462  
 Anchovy Canapés.................................................  462  
 Canapés Lorenzo.................................................  462  
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
  RECIPES FOR THE CHAFING-DISH....................................  463  
  Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads.................................  464  
 Scrambled Eggs with Calf's Brains...............................  464  
 Cheese Omelet...................................................  465  
 Eggs au Beurre Noir.............................................  465  
 Eggs à la Caracas...............................................  465  
 Union Grill.....................................................  466  
 Oysters à la D'Uxelles..........................................  466  
 Oysters à la Thorndike..........................................  466  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Lobster à la Delmonico..........................................  466  
 Lobster à la Newburg............................................  467  
 Clams à la Newburg..............................................  467  
 Shrimps à la Newburg............................................  467  
 Fish à la Provençale............................................  468  
 Grilled Sardines................................................  468  
 Sardines with Anchovy Sauce.....................................  468  
 Welsh Rarebit I.................................................  468  
 Welsh Rarebit II................................................  469  
 Oyster Rarebit..................................................  469  
 English Monkey..................................................  469  
 Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce................................  469  
 PAGE 
 Scotch Woodcock.................................................  470  
 Shredded Ham with Currant Jelly Sauce...........................  470  
 Venison Cutlets with Apples.....................................  470  
 Mutton with Currant Jelly Sauce.................................  470  
 Minced Mutton...................................................  471  
 Devilled Bones..................................................  471  
 Devilled Almonds................................................  471  
 Devilled Chestnuts..............................................  472  
 Fruit Canapés...................................................  472  
 Peach Canapés...................................................  472  
 Fig Cups........................................................  472  
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
  COOKING, PRESERVING, AND CANNING FRUITS.........................  473  
  Baked Apples....................................................  473  
 Baked Sweet Apples..............................................  474  
 Apple Sauce.....................................................  474  
 Spiced Apples...................................................  474  
 Apple Ginger....................................................  474  
 Apple Porcupine.................................................  474  
 Baked Bananas...................................................  475  
 Sautéd Bananas..................................................  475  
 Baked Peaches...................................................  475  
 Baked Pears.....................................................  475  
 Baked Quinces...................................................  476  
 Cranberry Sauce.................................................  476  
 Cranberry Sauce.................................................  476  
 Stewed Prunes...................................................  476  
 Rhubarb Sauce...................................................  476  
  JELLIES.........................................................  477  
  Apple Jelly.....................................................  477  
 Quince Jelly....................................................  478  
 Crab Apple Jelly................................................  478  
 Currant Jelly...................................................  478  
 Currant and Raspberry Jelly.....................................  478  
 Blackberry Jelly................................................  479  
 Raspberry Jelly.................................................  479  
 Barberry Jelly..................................................  479  
 Grape Jelly.....................................................  479  
 Green Grape Jelly...............................................  479  
 Venison Jelly...................................................  479  
 Damson Jelly....................................................  480  
  JAMS............................................................  480  
  Raspberry Jam...................................................  480  
 Blackberry Jam..................................................  480  
  MARMALADES......................................................  480  
  Grape Marmalade.................................................  480  
 Quince Marmalade................................................  480  
 Orange Marmalade................................................  481  
 Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade....................................  481  
  CANNING AND PRESERVING..........................................  481  
  Directions for Canning..........................................  482  
 To Sterilize Jars...............................................  482  
 Canned Porter Apples............................................  482  
 Canned Peaches..................................................  483  
 Canned Pears....................................................  483  
 Canned Pineapples...............................................  486  
 
 

 PAGE 
 Canned Quinces..................................................  483  
 Canned Cherries.................................................  483  
 Canned Huckleberries............................................  484  
 Canned Rhubarb..................................................  484  
 Canned Tomatoes.................................................  484  
 Damson Preserve.................................................  484  
 Strawberry Preserves............................................  484  
 PAGE 
 Pear Chips......................................................  485   
 Raspberry and Currant Preserves.................................  485  
 Brandied Peaches................................................  485  
 Tutti Frutti....................................................  485  
 Preserved Melon Rind............................................  486  
 Tomato Preserve.................................................  486  
  PICKLING........................................................  486  
  Spiced Currants.................................................  486  
 Sweet Pickled Pears.............................................  486  
 Sweet Pickled Peaches...........................................  487  
 Chili Sauce.....................................................  487  
 Ripe Tomato Pickle..............................................  487  
 Ripe Cucumber Pickle............................................  487  
 Unripe Cucumber Pickles (Gherkins)..............................  488  
 Chopped Pickles.................................................  488  
 Spanish Pickles.................................................  489  
 Chow-Chow.......................................................  489  
 Pickled Onions..................................................  489  
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
  RECIPES ESPECIALLY PREPARED FOR THE SICK........................  490  
  Barley Water....................................................  493  
 Rice Water......................................................  493  
 Oatmeal Water...................................................  493  
 Toast Water................... ..................................  494  
 Apple Water.....................................................  494  
 Tamarind Water..................................................  494  
 Currant Water...................................................  494  
 Grape Juice.....................................................  494  
 Lemonade........................................................  495  
 Irish Moss Lemonade.............................................  495  
 Flaxseed Lemonade...............................................  495  
 Orangeade.......................................................  495  
 Sterilized Milk.................................................  495  
 Albumenized Milk................................................  496  
 Kournles........................................................  496  
 Egg-nog I.......................................................  496  
 Egg-nog II......................................................  496  
 Egg-nog III or Hot Water Egg-nog................................  497  
 Wine Whey.......................................................  497  
 Milk Punch......................................................  497  
 Entire Wheat Coffee.............................................  497  
 Philips' Cocoa..................................................  497  
 Cocoa Cordial...................................................  498  
 Broiled Beef Essence............................................  498  
 Broiled Beef Tea................................................  498  
 Bottled Beef Essence............................................  498  
 Bottled Beef Tea................................................  498  
 Frozen Beef Tea.................................................  499  
 Flour Gruel.....................................................  499  
 Arrowroot Gruel.................................................  499  
 Farina Gruel....................................................  499  
 Indian Gruel....................................................  500  
 Oatmeal Gruel I.................................................  500  
 Oatmeal Gruel II................................................  500  
 Barley Gruel....................................................  500  
 Cracker Gruel...................................................  501  
 Imperial Granum.................................................  501  
 Clam Water......................................................  501  
 Mutton Broth....................................................  501  
 Chicken Broth...................................................  502  
 Indian Meal Mush................................................  502  
 Rye Meal Mush...................................................  502  
 Oatmeal Mush....................................................  502  
 Hominy Mush.....................................................  502  
 Quaker Oats Mush................................................  503  
 Beef Balls......................................................  503  
 Raw Beef Sandwiches.............................................  503  
 Egg Sandwiches..................................................  503  
 To Broil Birds in Buttered Cases................................  503  
 Rennet Custard (Junket).........................................  504  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
  PAGE 
 HELPFUL HINTS TO THE YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER..........................  505  
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
  SUITABLE COMBINATIONS FOR SERVING...............................  512  
 BREAKFAST MENUS.................................................  512  
 LUNCHEON MENUS..................................................  514  
 DINNER MENUS....................................................  517  
 MENU FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER....................................  520  
 MENU FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER.......................................  520  
 A FULL COURSE DINNER............................................  520  
 MENUS FOR FULL COURSE DINNERS...................................  523  
 NECESSARY UTENSILS AND STORES FOR FURNISHING SCHOOL 
 KITCHEN FOR A CLASS OF TWENTY-FOUR.........................  525  
   GLOSSARY........................................................  528  
 COURSE OF INSTRUCTION AS GIVEN AT THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL.....  531  
 PRACTICE LESSONS................................................  531  
 INDEX...........................................................  537  
 
 
 
  
 
 

 THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FOOD. 
 FOOD is anything which nourishes the body. Thirteen elements enter into the composition of the body: oxygen, 62 1/2%; carbon, 21 1/2%; hydrogen, 10%; nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium, magnesium, iron, and fluorine the remaining 3%. Others are found occasionally, but, as their uses are unknown, will not be considered.  Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the elements composing the body must be found in the food. The thirteen elements named are formed into chemical compounds by the vegetable and animal kingdoms to support the highest order of being, man. All food must undergo chemical change after being taken into the body, before it can be utilized by the body; this is the office of the digestive system.  Food is classified as follows:-- 
 
 
 I. ORGANIC 
 { 
 1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous). 
 
 
 { 
 2. Carbohydrates (sugar and starch). 
 
 
 { 
 3. Fats and oils. 
 
 
 II. INORGANIC 
 { 
 1. Mineral Matter. 
 
 
 { 
 2. Water. 
  
 
 

 The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They can furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and oils. They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting fats and glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat, fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent of proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names, but has the same chemical composition; as,  albumen  in eggs,  fibrin  in meat,  casein  in milk and cheese,  vegetable casein  or  legumen  in peas, beans, and lentils; and  gluten  in wheat. To this same class belongs gelatine.  The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits, cereals, sugars, and gums.  The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used as needed, and constitute the adipose tissues of the body. Examples: butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the olive-tree.  The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples: sodium chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of sodium, potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron.  Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One of the greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient.  
 
 CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD. 
 Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a person in normal condition  Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various 
 
 

prepared foods on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the first eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time ferments have been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread, baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson's Educators in place of the various sweet crackers, children would be as well pleased and better nourished; with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs of little ones, and experience has shown children seldom tire of them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked fruits, vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish and meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and abundant, constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from over-work, the cause has often been traced to impoverished diet. It must not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that the stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school luncheon-counter!  The daily average ration of an adult requires 
  3 1/2 oz. proteid. 
 3 oz. fat. 
 10 oz. starch. 
 1 oz. salt. 
 5 pints water. 
 
 About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical work, authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate climates, although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though they do the same amount of work as men, as a rule require less food. Brain workers should take their proteid in a form easily digested. In consideration of this 
 
 

fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for meat. The working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the stomach may have something to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage, brown-bread, and pastry will not overtax his digestion. In old age the digestive organs lessen in activity, and diet should be almost as simple as that of a child, increasing the amount of carbohydrates and decreasing the amount of proteids and fat.  
 
 WATER (H 2 O). 
 Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from five sources,--rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells, and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly pure when gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and frequently analyzed, to make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs.  The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from objectionable salts, and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be softened by boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda (NaHCO 3 ).  Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles appear on the surface and burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65° F. water is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F. tepid; 92° to 100° F. warm; over that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed from all organic impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated; it does not ferment, and is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and is of use taken on an empty stomach, while at a temperature of from 60° to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most favorable temperature.  
 
 

 Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of its atmospheric gases.  There are many charged, carbonized, and mineral spring waters bottled and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable table beverages. Examples: Soda water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia, saline, and sulphur waters.  
 
 SALTS. 
 Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues, secretions, and fluids of the body, with exception of enamel of the teeth. The amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.  Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea water, also from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation comes chiefly from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and Kansas.  Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat and fish.  Other salts--lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron--are obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and water we drink. In young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends upon phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and fish, but abound in cereals.  
 
 STARCH (C 6 H 10 O 5 ). 
 Starch is a white, glistening powder; it is largely distributed throughout the vegetable kingdom, being found most abundantly in cereals and potatoes. Being a force-producer and heat-giver, it forms one of the most important 
 
 

foods. Alone it cannot sustain life, but must be taken in combination with foods which build and repair tissues. 
  
 Test for Starch. 
A weak solution of iodine added to cold cooked starch gives an intense blue color.  
 Starch is insoluble in cold water, almost soluble in boiling water. Cold water separates starch-grains, boiling water causes them to swell and burst, thus forming a paste.  Starch subjected to heat is changed to  dextrine  (C 6 H 10 O 5 ), British gum. Dextrine subjected to heat plus an acid or a ferment is changed to  dextrose  (C 6 H 12 O 6 ). Dextrose occurs in ripe fruit, honey, sweet wine, and as a manufactured product. When grain is allowed to germinate for malting purposes, starch is changed to dextrine and dextrose. In fermentation, dextrose is changed to alcohol (C 2 H 5 HO) and carbon-dioxide (CO 2 ). Examples: Bread-making, vinegar, and distilled liquors.  Glycogen, animal starch, is found in many animal tissues and in some fungi. Examples: In liver of meat and oysters.  Raw starch is not digestible; consequently all foods containing starch should be subjected to boiling water, and thoroughly cooked. Starch is manufactured from wheat, corn, and potatoes.  Corn-starch  is manufactured from Indian corn.  Arrowroot,  the purest form of starch, is obtained from two or three species of the Maranta plant, which grows in the West Indies and other tropical countries. Bermuda arrowroot is most highly esteemed.  Tapioca  is starch obtained from tuberous roots of the bitter cassava, native of South America.  Sago  is starch obtained from sago palms, native of India.  
 
 SUGAR (C 12 H 22 O 11 ). 
 Sugar is a crystalline substance, differing from starch by its sweet taste and solubility in cold water. As food, 
 
 

its uses are the same as starch; all starch must be converted into sugar before it can be assimilated.  The principal kinds of sugar are: Cane sugar or  sucrose,  grape sugar or  glucose  (C 6 H 12 O 6 ), milk sugar or  lactose  (C 12 H 22 O 11 ), and fruit sugar or  leculose  (C 6 H 12 O 6 ). 
   Cane sugar   is obtained from sugar cane beets, and the palm and sugar-maple trees. Sugar cane is a grass supposed to be native to Southern Asia, but now grown throughout the tropics, a large amount coming from Cuba and Louisiana; it is the commonest and sweetest of all, and in all cases the manufacture is essentially the same. The products of manufacture are: Molasses, syrup, brown sugar, loaf, cut, granulated, powdered, and confectioners' sugar. Brown sugar is cheapest, but is not so pure or sweet as white grades; powdered and confectioners' sugars are fine grades, pulverized, and, although seeming less sweet to the taste, are equally pure. Confectioners' sugar when applied to the tongue will dissolve at once; powdered sugar is a little granular.  
 
 Cane sugar when added to fruits, and allowed to cook for some time, changes to grape sugar, losing one-third of its sweetness; therefore the reason for adding it when fruit is nearly cooked. Cane sugar is of great preservative value, hence its use in preserving fruits and milk; also, for the preparation of syrups.  Three changes take place in the cooking of sugar: First, barley sugar; second, caramel; third, carbon. 
   Grape sugar   is found in honey and all sweet fruits. It appears on the outside of dried fruits such as raisins, dates, etc., and is only two-thirds as sweet as cane sugar. As a manufactured product it is obtained from the starch of corn.  
  Milk sugar   is obtained from the milk of mammalia, but unlike cane sugar does not ferment.  
  Fruit sugar   is obtained from sweet fruits, and is sold as  diabetin,  is sweeter than cane sugar, and is principally used by diabetic patients.  
 
 
  
 
 

 GUM, PECTOSE AND CELLULOSE. 
 These compounds found in food are closely allied to the carbohydrates, but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum exists in the juices of almost all plants, coming from the stems, branches, and fruits. Examples: Gum arabic, gum tragacanth, and mucilage. Pectose exists in the fleshy pulp of unripe fruit; during the process of ripening it changes to pectin; by cooking, pectin is changed to pectosic acid, and by longer cooking to pectic acid. Pectosic acid is jelly-like when cold; pectic acid is jelly-like when hot or cold. Cellulose constitutes the cell-walls of vegetable life; in very young vegetables it is possible that it can be acted upon by the digestive ferments; in older vegetables it becomes woody and completely indigestible.  
 
 FATS AND OILS. 
 Fats and oils are found in both the animal and vegetable kingdom. Fats are solid; oils are liquid; they may be converted into a liquid state by application of heat; they contain three substances,  stearin  (solid),  olein  (liquid),  palmitin  (semi-solid). Suet is an example where stearin is found in excess; lard where olein is in excess, and butter where palmitin is in excess. Margarin is a mixture of stearin and palmitin. The fatty acids are formed of stearin, olein, and palmitin, with glycerine as the base. Examples: stearic, palmitic, and oleic acid. Butyric acid is acid found in butter. These are not sour to the taste, but are called acids on account of their chemical composition.  Among animal fats cream and butter are of first importance as foods, on account of their easy assimilation. Other examples are: The fat of meats, bone-marrow, suet (the best found around the loin and kidneys of the beef creature), lard, cottolene, coto-suet, cocoanut butter, butterine and oleomargarine. The principal animal oils are 
 
 

cod liver oil and oil found in the yolk of egg; principal vegetable oils are olive, cotton-seed, poppy, and cocoanut oil, and oils obtained from various nuts.  Oils are divided into two classes,  essential  and  fixed.  Essential oils are volatile and soluble in alcohol. Examples: Clove, rose, nutmeg, and violet. Fixed oils are non-volatile and soluble in ether, oil or turpentine. Examples: Oil of nuts, corn-meal, mustard, and glycerine.  Fats may be heated to a high temperature, as considered in cookery they have no boiling point. When appearing to boil, it is evident water has been added, and the temperature lowered to that of boiling water, 212°F.  
 
 MILK. 
 
 COMPOSITION. 
  Proteid, 3.4%. 
 Fat, 4%. 
 Mineral matter, .7%. 
 Water, 87%. 
 Lactose, 4.9%. 
 Boston Chemist. 
 
 The value of milk as a food is obvious from the fact that it constitutes the natural food of all young mammalia during the period of their most rapid growth. There is some danger, however, of overestimating its value in the dietary of adults, as solid food is essential, and liquid taken should act as a stimulant and a solvent rather than as a nutrient. One obtains the greatest benefit from milk when taken alone at regular intervals between meals, or before retiring, and sipped, rather than drunk. Hot milk is often given to produce sleep.  When milk is allowed to stand for a few hours, the globules of fat, which have been held in suspension throughout the liquid, rise to the top in the form of  cream;  this is due to their lower specific gravity.  The difference in quality of milk depends chiefly on the quantity of fat therein: casein, lactose, and mineral matter 
 
 

being nearly constant, water varying but little unless milk is adulterated. 
  
 Why Milk Sours. 
A germ found floating in the air attacks a portion of the lactose in the milk, converting it into lactic acid; this, in turn, acts upon the casein (proteid) and precipitates it, producing what is known as  curd  and  whey.  Whey contains water, salts, and some sugar.  
 Milk is preserved by sterilization, pasteurisation, and evaporation.  Fresh condensed milk,  a form of evaporized milk, is sold in bulk, and is preferred by many to serve with coffee. Various brands of condensed milk and cream are on the market in tin cans, hermetically sealed. Examples: Nestle's Swiss Condensed Milk, Eagle Condensed Milk, Daisy Condensed Milk, Highland Evaporated Cream, Borden's Peerless Evaporated Cream.  Malted milk --evaporized milk in combination with extracts of malted barley and wheat--is used to a considerable extent; it is sold in the form of powder.  Thin, or strawberry, and thick cream may be obtained from almost all creameries. Devonshire, or clotted cream, is cream which has been removed from milk allowed to heat slowly to a temperature of about 150° F.  In feeding infants with milk, avoid all danger of infectious germs by sterilization. By this process milk can be kept for many days, and transported if necessary. To prevent acidity of the stomach, add from one to two tea-spoonfuls of lime water to each half pint of milk. Lime water may be bought at any druggist's, or easily prepared at home. 
   Lime Water. 

Pour two quarts boiling  water  over an inch cube  unslacked lime;  stir thoroughly and stand over night; in the morning pour off the liquid that is clear, and bottle for use. Keep in a cool place.  

 
  
 
 

 MILK FOR THE SICK. 
 It is generally conceded that in typhoid fever and diphtheria, milk should constitute the diet in early stages of either disease. In cases where it cannot be taken alone, it may be taken in combination with soda, seltzer, Apollinaris, or Vichy water, bearing in mind that it should be given in small quantities, at frequent, regular intervals.  In cases of extreme weakness  peptonized milk  is often used which is partially pre-digested.  Koumiss  (fermented milk), which can be easily prepared at home, is much used in fevers and gastric troubles.  Where a larger amount of nutriment is required,  albumenized milk  is valuable.  Good reports come from the use of  modified milk,  prepared at the Walker-Gordon Laboratory, Boston, and from a similar laboratory in Philadelphia. Modified milk is put up by physicians' prescriptions; the milk is separated into its parts, and recombined in different proportions to better suit the needs of individual cases. The milk is always sterilized before it leaves the laboratory.  
 
 BUTTER. 
 
 COMPOSITION. 
  Fat, 93%. 
 Water, 5.34%. 
 Mineral matter, .95%. 
 Casein, .71%. 
 Pratt Institute. 
 
 Butter of commerce is made from cream of cow's milk. The quality depends upon the breed of cow, manner of, and care in feeding. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of butter.  Butter should be kept in a cool place, and well covered, otherwise it is liable to become rancid; this is due to the albuminous constituents of the milk, acting as a ferment, setting free the fatty acids. First-quality butter should 
 
 

be used; this does not include pat butter or fancy grades. Poor butter has not been as thoroughly worked during manufacture, consequently more casein remains; therefore it is more apt to become rancid. Fresh butter spoils quickly; salt acts as a preservative. Butter which has become rancid by too long keeping may be greatly improved by melting, heating, and quickly chilling with ice-water. The butter will rise to the top, and may be easily removed.  Where butter cannot be afforded, there are several products on the market which have the same chemical composition as butter, and are equally wholesome. Examples: Butterine and oleomargarine.  Buttermilk is liquid remaining after butter "has come" When taken fresh, it makes a wholesome beverage.  
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 COMPOSITION. 
  Proteid, 31.23%. 
 Fat, 34.39%. 
 Water, 30.17%. 
 Mineral matter, 4.31%. 
 
 Cheese is the solid part of sweet milk obtained by heating milk and coagulating it by means of rennet or an acid. Rennet is an infusion made from prepared inner membrane of the fourth stomach of the calf. The curd is salted and subjected to pressure. Cheese is made from skim milk, milk plus cream, or cream. Cheese is kept for a longer or shorter time, according to the kind, that fermentation or decomposition may take place. This is called ripening. Some cream cheeses are not allowed to ripen. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of cheese.  Cheese is very valuable food; being rich in proteid, it may be used as a substitute for meat. A pound of cheese is equal in proteid to two pounds of beef. Cheese in the raw state is difficult of digestion. This is somewhat overcome by cooking and adding a small amount of bicarbonate 
 
 

of soda. A small piece of rich cheese is often eaten to assist digestion.  The various brands of cheese take their names from the places where made. Many foreign ones are now well imitated in this country. The favorite kinds of skim-milk cheese are: Edam, Gruyère, and Parmesan. Parmesan is very hard and used principally for grating. The holes in Gruyère are due to aeration.  The favorite kinds of milk cheese are: Gloucester, Cheshire, Cheddar, and Gorgonzola; Milk and cream cheese: Stilton and Double Gloucester; Cream cheese: Brie, Neufchâtel, and Camembert.  
 
 FRUITS. 
 The varieties of fruits consumed are numerous, and their uses important. They are chiefly valuable for their sugar, acids, and salts, and are cooling, refreshing, and stimulating. They act as a tonic, and assist in purifying the blood. Many contain a jelly-like substance, called pectin, and several contain starch, which during the ripening process is converted into glucose. Bananas, dates, figs, prunes, and grapes, owing to their large amount of sugar and small amount of water, are the most nutritious. Melons, oranges, lemons, and grapes contain the largest amount of water. Apples, lemons, and oranges are valuable for their potash salts, and oranges and lemons especially valuable for their citric acid. It is of importance to those who are obliged to exclude much sugar from their dietary, to know that plums, peaches, apricots, and raspberries have less sugar than other fruits; apples, sweet cherries, grapes, and pears contain the largest amount. Apples are obtainable nearly all the year, and on account of their variety, cheapness, and abundance are termed queen of fruits.  Thoroughly ripe fruits should be freely indulged in, and to many are more acceptable than desserts prepared in the kitchen. If possible, fruits should always appear on 
 
 

the breakfast-table. In cases where uncooked fruit cannot be freely eaten, many kinds may be cooked and prove valuable. Never eat unripe fruit, or that which is beginning to decay. Fruits should be wiped or rinsed before serving.  
 
 VEGETABLE ACIDS, AND WHERE FOUND. 
 The principal vegetable acids are: 
  I. Acetic (HC 2 H 2 O 2 ), found in wine and vinegar. 
 II. Tartaric (H 2 C 4 H 4 O 6 ), found in grapes, pineapples, and tamarinds. 
 III. Malic, much like tartaric, found in apples, pears, peaches, apricots, gooseberries, and currants. 
 IV. Citric (H 3 C 6 H 5 O 7 ), found in lemons, oranges, limes, and citron. 
 V. Oxalic (H 2 C 2 O 4 ), found in rhubarb and sorrel. 
 
 To these may be added tannic acid, obtained from gall nuts. Some fruits contain two or more acids. Malic and citric are found in strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and cherries; malic, citric, and oxalic in cranberries.  
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 Condiments are not classed among foods, but are known as food adjuncts. They are used to stimulate the appetite by adding flavor to food. Among the most important are salt, spices, and various flavorings. Salt, according to some authorities, is called a food, being necessary to life. 
   Black pepper   is ground peppercorns. Peppercorns are the dried berries of Piper nigrum, grown in the West Indies, Sumatra, and other Eastern countries.  
  White pepper   is made from the same berry, the outer husk being removed before grinding. It is less irritating than black pepper to the coating of the stomach.  
 
 

  Cayenne pepper   is the powdered pod of capsicum grown on the eastern coast of Africa and in Zanzibar.  
  Mustard   is the ground seed of two species of the Brassica. Brassica alba yields white mustard seeds; Brassica nigra, black mustard seeds. Both species are grown in Europe and America.  
  Ginger   is pulverized dried root of Zanzibar officinale, grown in Jamaica, China, and India. Commercially speaking, there are three grades,--Jamaica, best and strongest; Cochin, and African.  
  Cinnamon   is ground inner bark of Cinnamomum zeylanicum, principally grown in Ceylon. The cinnamon of commerce (cassia) is powdered bark of different species of the same shrub, which is principally grown in China, and called Chinese cinnamon. It is cheaper than true cinnamon.  
  Clove   is ground flower buds of Caryophyllus aromaticus, native to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, but now grown principally in Zanzibar, Pemba, and the West Indies.  
  Pimento   (commonly called allspice) is ground fruit of the Eugenia pimenta, grown in Jamaica and the West Indies.  
  Nutmeg   is the kernel of the fruit of the Myristica fragrans, grown in Banda Islands.  
  Mace.   The fibrous network which envelops the nutmeg seed constitutes the mace of commerce.  
  Vinegar   is made from apple cider, malt, and wine, and is the product of fermentation. It is a great preservative; hence its use in the making of pickles, sauces, and other condiments. The amount of acetic acid in vinegar varies from two to seven per cent.  
  Capers   are flower buds of Capparis spinosa, grown in countries bordering the Mediterranean. They are preserved in vinegar, and bottled for importation.  
  Horse-radish   is root of Cochliaria armoracia,-- a plant native to Europe, but now grown in our own country. It is generally grated, mixed with vinegar, and bottled.  
 
 
  
 
 

 FLAVORING EXTRACTS. 
 Many flavoring extracts are on the market. Examples: Almond, vanilla, lemon, orange, peach, and rose. These are made from the flower, fruit, or seed from which they are named. Strawberry, pineapple, and banana extracts are manufactured from chemicals.  
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER II. 
 
 COOKERY. 
 COOKERY is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the body.  Prehistoric man may have lived on uncooked foods, but there are no savage races to-day who do not practice cookery in some way, however crude. Progress in civilization has been accompanied by progress in cookery.  Much time has been given in the last few years to the study of foods, their necessary proportions, and manner of cooking them. Educators have been shown by scientists that this knowledge should be disseminated; as a result, "Cookery" is found in the curriculum of public schools of many of our towns and cities.  Food is cooked to develop new flavors, and make it more palatable and digestible. For cooking there are three essentials (besides the material to be cooked),--heat, air, and moisture. 
   Heat   is molecular motion, and is produced by combustion. Heat used for cookery is obtained by the combustion of inflammable substances--wood, coal, charcoal, coke, gas, gasoline, kerosene, and alcohol--called fuels. Heat for cookery is applied by radiation, conduction, and convection.  
  Air   is composed of oxygen, nitrogen, and argon, and surrounds everything. Combustion cannot take place without it, the oxygen of the air being the only supporter of combustion.  
  Moisture,   in the form of water, either found in the food or added to it.  
 
 The combined effect of heat and moisture swells and bursts starch-grains; hardens albumen in eggs, fish, and 
 
 

meat; softens fibrous portions of meat, and cellulose of vegetables.  Among fuels, kerosene oil is the cheapest; gas gives the greatest amount of heat in the shortest time.  Soft wood,  like pine, on account of its coarse fibre, burns quickly; therefore makes the best kindling.  Hard wood,  like oak and ash, having the fibres closely packed, burns slowly, and is used in addition to pine wood for kindling coal. Where only wood is used as a fuel, it is principally hard wood.   Charcoal  for fuel is produced by the smothered combustion of wood. It gives an intense, even heat; therefore makes a good broiling fire. Its use for kindling is not infrequent.  There are two kinds of coal:  Anthracite,  or  hard coal.  Examples: Hard and free-burning White Ash, Shamokin, and Franklin. Nut is any kind of hard coal obtained from screenings.  Bituminous,  or  soft coal.  Example: Cannel coal.   Coke  is the solid product of carbonized coal, and bears the same relation to coal that charcoal bears to wood.   Alcohol  is employed as fuel when the  chafing-dish  is used.  
 
 FIRE. 
 Fire for cookery is confined in a stove or range, so that heat may be utilized and regulated. Flame-heat is obtained from kerosene, gas, or alcohol, as used in oil-stoves, gas-stoves or gas-ranges, and  chafing-dishes.  
   A cooking-stove   is a large iron box set on legs. It has a fire-box in the front, the sides of which are lined with fire-proof material similar to that of which bricks are made. The bottom is furnished with a movable iron grate. Underneath the fire-box is a space which extends from the grate to a pan for receiving ashes. At the back of fire-box is a compartment called the oven, accessible on each side of the stove by a door. Between the oven and the top of the stove is a space for the circulation of air.  
 
 
 

 Stoves are connected with chimney-flues by means of a stove-pipe, and have dampers to regulate the supply of air and heat, and as an outlet for smoke and gases.  The damper below the fire-box is known as the  front damper,  by means of which the air supply is regulated, thus regulating the heat.  The oven is heated by a circulation of hot air. This is accomplished by closing the  oven-damper,  which is situated near the oven. When this damper is left open, the hot air rushes up the chimney. The damper near the chimney is known as the  chimney-damper.  When open it gives a free outlet for the escape of smoke and gas. When partially closed, as is usually the case in most ranges, except when the fire is started, it serves as a saver of heat. There is also a  check,  which, when open, cools the fire and saves heat, but should always be closed except when used for this purpose.  Stoves are but seldom used, portable ranges having taken their places. 
   A portable range   is a cooking-stove with one door; it often has an under oven, of use for warming dishes and keeping food hot.  
  A set range   is built in a fireplace. It usually has two ovens, one on each side of the fire-box, or two above it at the back. Set ranges, as they consume so large an amount of fuel, are being replaced by portable ones.  
 
 
   HOW TO BUILD A FIRE. 

Before starting to build a fire, free the grate from ashes. To do this, put on covers, close front and back dampers, and open oven-damper; turn grate, and ashes will fall into the ash receiver. If these rules are not followed, ashes will fly over the room. Turn grate back into place, remove the covers over fire-box, and cover grate with pieces of  paper  (twisted in centre and left loose at the ends). Cover  paper  with small  sticks,  or  pieces of pine wood,  being sure that the wood reaches 
 
 

the ends of fire-box, and so arranged that it will admit air. Over pine wood arrange  hard wood;  then sprinkle with two shovelfuls of  coal.  Put on covers, open closed dampers, strike a match,--sufficient friction is formed to burn the phosphorus, this in turn lights the sulphur, and the sulphur the wood,--then apply the lighted match under the grate, and you have a fire.  Now blacken the stove. Begin at front of range, and work towards the back; as the iron heats, a good polish may be obtained. When the wood is thoroughly kindled, add more  coal.  A blue flame will soon appear, which is the gas (CO) in the  coal  burning to carbon deoxide (CO 2 ), when the blue flame changes to a white flame; then the oven-damper should be closed. In a few moments the front damper may be nearly closed, leaving space to admit sufficient oxygen to feed the fire. It is sometimes forgotten that oxygen is necessary to keep a fire burning. As soon as the  coal  is well ignited, half close the chimney-damper, unless the draft be very poor.  Never allow the fire-box to be more than three-fourths filled. When full, the draft is checked, a larger amount of fuel is consumed, and much heat is lost. This is a point that should be impressed on the mind of the cook.  Ashes must be removed and sifted daily; pick over and save good coals,--which are known as cinders,--throwing out useless pieces, known as clinkers.  If a fire is used constantly during the day, replenish  coal  frequently, but in small quantities. If for any length of time the fire is not needed, open check, the dampers being closed; when again wanted for use, close check, open front damper, and with a poker rake out ashes from under fire, and wait for fire to burn brightly before adding new  coal.    Coal  when red hot has parted with most of its heat. Some refuse to believe this, and insist upon keeping dampers open until most of the heat has escaped into the chimney.  
 
 

   To keep a fire over night, 

remove the ashes from under the fire, put on enough  coal  to fill the box, close the dampers, and lift the back covers enough to admit air. This is better than lifting the covers over the fire-box, and prevents poisonous gases entering the room.   

 
 WAYS OF COOKING. 
 The principal ways of cooking are boiling, broiling, stewing, roasting, baking, frying, sautéing, braising, and fricasseeing. 
   Boiling   is cooking in boiling water. Solid food so cooked is called boiled food, though literally this expression is incorrect. Examples: Boiled eggs, potatoes, mutton, etc.  
 
 Water boils at 212° F. (sea level), and simmers at 185° F. Rapidly boiling water has the same temperature as slowly boiling water, consequently is able to do the same work,--a fact often forgotten by the cook, who is too apt "to wood" the fire that water may boil vigorously.  Watery vapor and steam pass off from boiling water. Steam is invisible; watery vapor is visible, and is often miscalled steam. Cooking utensils commonly used admit the escape of watery vapor and steam; thereby much heat is lost if food is cooked in rapidly boiling water.  Water is boiled for two purposes: First, cooking of itself to destroy organic impurities; second, for cooking foods. Boiling water toughens and hardens albumen in eggs; toughens fibrin and dissolves tissues in meat; bursts starch-grains and softens cellulose in cereals and vegetables. Milk should never be allowed to boil. At boiling temperature (214°F.) the casein is slightly hardened, and the fat is rendered more difficult of digestion. Milk heated over boiling water, as in a  double boiler,  is called  scalded milk,  and reaches a temperature of 196° F. When foods are cooked over hot water the process is called steaming.  
 
 

   Stewing   is cooking in a small amount of hot water for a long time at low temperature; it is the most economical way of cooking meats, as all nutriment is retained, and the ordinary way of cooking cheaper cuts. Thus fibre and connective tissues are softened, and the whole is made tender and palatable.  
  Broiling   is cooking over or in front of a clear fire. The food to be cooked is usually placed in a greased  broiler  or on a  gridiron  held near the coals, turned often at first to sear the outside,--thus preventing escape of inner juices,--afterwards turned occasionally. Tender meats and fish may be cooked in this way. The flavor obtained by broiling is particularly fine; there is, however, a greater loss of weight in this than in any other way of cooking, as the food thus cooked is exposed to free circulation of air. When coal is not used, or a fire is not in condition for broiling, a plan for  pan broiling  has been adopted. This is done by placing food to be cooked in a hissing hot frying-pan, turning often as in broiling.  
  Roasting   is cooking before a clear fire, with a  reflector  to concentrate the heat. Heat is applied in the same way as for broiling, the difference being that the meat for roasting is placed on a spit and allowed to revolve, thicker pieces always being employed.  Tin-kitchens  are now but seldom used. Meats cooked in a range oven, though really baked, are said to be roasted. Meats so cooked are pleasing to the sight and agreeable to the palate, although, according to Mr. Edward Atkinson, not so easily digested as when cooked at a lower temperature in the Aladdin oven.  
  Baking   is cooking in a range oven.  
  Frying   is cooking by means of immersion in deep fat raised to a temperature of 350° to 400°F. For frying purposes olive oil, lard, beef drippings, cottolene, coto-suet, and cocoanut butter are used. A combination of two-thirds lard and one-third beef suet (tried out and clarified) is better than lard alone. Cottolene, coto-suet, and coc oanut butter are economical, inasmuch as they 
 
 

may be heated to a high temperature without discoloring, therefore may be used for a larger number of fryings. Cod fat obtained from beef is often used by  chefs  for frying.  
 
 Great care should be taken in frying that fat is of the right temperature; otherwise food so cooked will absorb fat.  Nearly all foods which do not contain eggs are dipped in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, before frying. The intense heat of fat hardens the albumen, thus forming a coating which prevents food from "soaking fat."  When meat or fish is to be fried, it should be kept in a warm room for some time previous to cooking, and wiped as dry as possible. If cold, it decreases the temperature of the fat to such extent that a coating is not formed quickly enough to prevent fat from penetrating the food. The ebullition of fat is due to water found in food to be cooked.  Great care must be taken that too much is not put into the fat at one time, not only because it lowers the temperature of the fat, but because it causes it to bubble and go over the sides of the kettle. It is not fat that boils, but water which fat has received from food.  All fried food on removal from fat should be drained on brown paper. 
   Rules for Testing Fat for Frying. 

1. When the  fat  begins to smoke, drop in an inch cube of  bread,  from soft part of loaf, and if in forty seconds it is golden brown, the  fat  is then of right temperature for frying any cooked mixture.  2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing one minute for  bread  to brown.  

 Many kinds of food may be fried in the same fat; new fat should be used for batter and dough mixtures, potatoes, and fish-balls; after these, fish, meat, and croquettes. Fat should be frequently clarified. 
   To Clarify Fat. 

Melt  fat,  add  raw potato  cut in quarter inch slices, and allow  fat  to heat gradually; when  fat  
 
 

ceases to bubble and  potatoes  are well browned, strain through double  cheese-cloth,  placed over wire strainer, into a pan. The  potato  absorbs any odors or gases, and collects to itself some of the sediment, remainder settling to bottom of kettle.   When small amount of  fat  is to be clarified, add to  cold fat   boiling water,  stir vigorously, and set aside to cool; the  fat  will form a cake on top, which may be easily removed; on bottom of the cake will be found sediment, which may be readily scraped off with a knife.   

 Remnants of fat, either cooked or uncooked, should be saved and tried out, and when necessary clarified.  Fat from beef, poultry, chicken, and pork, may be used for shortening or frying purposes; fat from mutton and smoked meats may be used for making hard and soft soap; fat removed from soup stock, the water in which corned beef has been cooked, and drippings from roast beef, may be tried out, clarified, and used for shortening or frying purposes. 
   To Try out Fat. 

Cut in small pieces and melt in top of a  double boiler;  in this way it will require less watching than if placed in kettle on the back of range.    Leaf lard  

is tried out in the same way; in cutting the leaf, remove membrane. After straining  lard,  that which remains may be salted, pressed, and eaten as a relish, and is called scraps.   

   Sautéing   is frying in a small quantity of fat. Food so cooked is much more difficult of digestion than when fried in deep fat; it is impossible to cook in this way without the food absorbing fat. A frying-pan or griddle is used; the food is cooked on one side, then turned, and cooked on the other.  
  Braising   is stewing and baking (meat). Meat to be braised is frequently first sautéd to prevent escape of much juice in the gravy. The meat is placed in a pan with a small quantity of stock or water, vegetables (carrot, turnip, celery, and onion) cut in pieces, salt, pepper, and sweet herbs. The pan should have a tight-fitting 
 
 

cover. Meat so prepared should be cooked in an oven at low uniform temperature for a long time. This is an economical way of cooking, and the only way besides stewing or boiling of making a large piece of tough meat palatable and digestible.  
  Fricasseeing   is sautéing and serving with a sauce. Tender meat is fricasseed without previous cooking; less tender meat requires cooking in hot water before fricasseeing. Although veal is obtained from a young creature, it requires long cooking; it is usually sautéd, and then cooked in a sauce at low temperature for a long time.  
 
 
 Various Ways of Preparing Food for Cooking. 
   Egging and Crumbing. 

Use for crumbing  dried bread crumbs  which have been rolled and sifted, or soft  stale bread  broken in pieces and forced through a  colander.  An ingenious machine on the market,  "The Bread Crumber,"  does this work.  Egg  used for crumbing should be broken into a shallow plate and beaten with a silver fork to blend yolk and white; dilute each  egg  with two tablespoons  water.  The  crumbs  should be taken on a board; food to be fried should be first rolled in crumbs (care being taken that all parts are covered with crumbs), then dipped in  egg  mixture (equal care being taken to cover all parts), then rolled in crumbs again; after the last crumbing remove food to a place on the board where there are no crumbs, and shake off some of the outer ones which make coating too thick. A broad-bladed knife with short handle--the  Teller knife --is the most convenient utensil for lifting food to be crumbed from  egg  mixture. Small  scallops,   oysters,  and  crabs  are more easily crumbed by putting crumbs and  fish  in paper and shaking paper until the  fish  is covered with crumbs. The object of first crumbing is to dry the surface that  egg  may cling to it; and where a thin coating is desired  flour  is often used in place of crumbs.  

 

   Larding 

is introducing small pieces of  fat salt pork  or  bacon  through the surface of uncooked  meat.  The flavor of lean and dry meat is much improved by larding;  tenderloin of beef  (fillet),  grouse,   partridge,   pigeon,  and  liver  are often prepared in this way.  Pig pork  being firm, is best for larding.  Pork  should be kept in a cold place that it may be well chilled. Remove rind and use the part of  pork  which lies between rind and vein. With sharp knife (which is sure to make a clean cut) remove slices a little less than one-fourth inch thick; cut the slices into stips a little less than one-fourth inch wide; these  s should be two and one-fourth inches long, and are called  lardoons.  Lardoons for small birds-- quail,  for example--should be cut smaller and not quite so long. To lard, insert one end of lardoon into  larding-needle,  hold needle firmly, and with pointed end take up a stitch one-third inch deep and three-fourths inch wide; draw needle through, care being taken that lardoon is left in meat and its ends project to equal lengths. Arrange lardoons in parallel rows, one inch apart, stitches in the alternate rows being directly underneath each other. Lard the upper surface of cuts of meat with the grain, never across it. In birds, insert lardoons parallel to breast-bone on either side.  When large lardoons are forced through meat from surface to surface, the process is called  daubing. 

  Example:  Beef  à la mode. Thin slices of  fat salt pork  placed over meat may be substituted for larding, but flavor is not the same as when  pork  is drawn through flesh, and the dish is far less sightly.  

   Boning   is removing bones from meat or fish, leaving the flesh nearly in its original shape. For boning, a small sharp knife with pointed blade is essential. Legs of mutton and veal and loins of beef may be ordered boned at market, no extra charge being made.  
 
 Whoever wishes to learn how to bone should first be taught boning of a small bird; when this is accomplished, larger birds, chickens, and turkeys may easily be done, 
 
 

the processes varying but little. In large birds, tendons are drawn from legs, and the wings are left on and boned.  
   How to Bone a Bird. 

In buying  birds  for boning, select those which have been fresh killed, dry picked and not drawn. Singe, remove pinfeathers, head, and feet, and cut off wings close to body. Lay bird on a board, breast down.  Begin at neck and with sharp knife cut through the skin the entire length of body. Scrape the flesh from backbone until end of one shoulder-blade is found; scrape flesh from shoulder-blade and continue around wing-joint, cutting through tendonous portions which are encountered; then bone other side. Scrape skin from backbone the entire length of body, working across the ribs. Free wish-bone and collar-bones, at same time removing crop and windpipe; continue down breast-bone, particular care being taken not to break the skin as it lies very near bone, or to cut the delicate membranes which enclose entrails. Scrape flesh from second joints and drumsticks, laying it back and drawing off as a glove may be drawn from the hand. Withdraw carcass and put flesh back in its original shape. In large birds where wings are boned, scrape flesh to middle joint, where bone should be broken, leaving bone at tip end to assist in preserving shape.  

 
 How to Measure. 
 Correct measurements are absolutely necessary to insure the best results. Good judgment, with experience, has taught some to measure by sight; but the majority need definite guides.  Tin measuring-cups, divided in quarters or thirds, holding one half-pint, and tea and table spoons of regulation sizes,--which may be bought at any store where kitchen furnishings are sold,--and a  case knife,  are essentials 
 
 

for correct measurement. Mixing-spoons, which are little larger than tablespoons, should not be confounded with the latter. 
  1. Measuring-cup divided in thirds, with tablespoon, illustrating the measuring of dry ingredients. 2.Measuring-cup divided in quarters, with teaspoon one-half full of dry ingredients.  An illustration of two measuring cups accompanied by two spoons and a long knife.  
  Measuring Ingredients.  Flour, meal, powdered and confectioners' sugar, and soda should be sifted before measuring. Mustard and baking-powder, from standing in boxes, settle, therefore should be stirred to lighten; salt frequently lumps, and these lumps should be broken.  A cupful  is measured level. To measure a cupful, put in the ingredient by spoonfuls or from a scoop, round slightly, and level with a  case knife,  care being taken not to shake the cup.  A tablespoonful is measured level. A teaspoonful is measured level.   To measure tea or table spoonfuls, dip the spoon in the ingredient, fill, lift, and level with a knife, the sharp edge of knife being toward tip of spoon. Divide with knife lengthwise of spoon, for a half-spoonful; divide halves crosswise for quarters, and quarters crosswise for eighths. Less than one-eighth of a teaspoonful is considered a few grains.  
 
 

  Measuring Liquids.  A cupful of liquid is all the cup will hold.  A tea or table spoonful is all the spoon will hold.   Measuring Butter, Lard, etc.  To measure butter, lard, and other solid fats, pack solidly into cup or spoon, and level with a knife.  When dry ingredients, liquids, and fats are called for in the same recipe, measure in the order given, thereby using but one cup.  
 
 How to Combine Ingredients. 
 Next to measuring comes care in combining,--a fact not always recognized by the inexperienced. Three ways are considered,--stirring, beating, cutting and folding. 
   To stir,   mix by using circular motion, widening the circles until all is blended. Stirring is the motion ordinarily employed in all cookery, alone or in combination with beating.  
  To beat,   turn ingredient or ingredients over and over, continually bringing the under part to the surface, thus allowing the utensil used for beating to be constantly brought in contact with bottom of the dish and throughout the mixture.  
  To cut and fold,   introduce one ingredient into another ingredient or mixture by two motions: with a spoon, a repeated vertical downward motion, known as cutting; and a turning over and over of mixture, allowing bowl of spoon each time to come in contact with bottom of dish, is called folding. These repeated motions are alternated until thorough blending is accomplished.  
  By stirring,   ingredients are mixed;  by beating,  a large amount of air is inclosed;  by cutting and folding,  air already introduced is prevented from escaping.  
 
 
 
 

   1. Steel fork. 2. Teaspoon. 3. Tablespoon. 4. Mixing-spoon. 5. Cake spoon. 6. Small wooden spoon. 7. Case knife. 8. Vegetable knife. 9. Double boiler. 10. Potato ricer. 11. Wire whisk in small granite saucepan. 12. Dover egg-beater.  An illustration of a number of utensils hanging on a board above some larger cooking implements, which are laid out on a table. The caption identifies each implement in order from left to right.  
 
 Ways of Preserving. 
 1.  By Freezing.  Foods which spoil readily are frozen for transportation, and must be kept packed in ice until used. Examples: Fish and poultry.  
 
 

 2.  By Refrigeration.  Foods so preserved are kept in cold storage. The cooling is accomplished by means of ice, or by a machine where compressed gas is cooled and then permitted to expand. Examples: Meat, milk, butter, eggs, etc.  3.  By Canning.  Which is preserving in air-tight glass jars, or tin cans hermetically sealed. When fruit is canned, sugar is usually added.  4.  By Sugar.  Examples: Fruit-juices and condensed milk.  5.  By Exclusion of Air.  Foods are preserved by exclusion of air in other ways than canning. Examples: Grapes in bran, eggs in lime-water, etc.  6.  By Drying.  Drying consists in evaporation of nearly all moisture, and is generally with salting, except in vegetables and fruits.  7.  By Evaporation.  There are examples where considerable moisture remains, though much is driven off. Example: Beef extract.  8.  By Salting.  There are two kinds of salting,--dry, and corning or salting in brine. Examples: Salt codfish, beef, pork, tripe, etc.  9.  By Smoking.  Some foods, after being salted, are hung in a closed room for several hours, where hickory wood is allowed to smother. Examples: Ham, beef, and fish.  10.  By Pickling.  Vinegar, to which salt is added, and sometimes sugar and spices, is scalded; and cucumbers, onions, and various kinds of fruit are allowed to remain in it.  11.  By Oil.  Examples: Sardines, anchovies, etc.  12.  By Antiseptics.  The least wholesome way is by the use of antiseptics. Borax and salicilic acid, when employed, should be used sparingly.  
 
  
 
 

 TABLE OF MEASURES AND WEIGHTS. 
 
 
 2    cups butter (packed solidly)........... 
 = 1 
 pound. 
 
 
 2    "  flour (pastry).................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 2    "  granulated sugar.................. 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 2 2/3  "  powdered   "  ..................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 3 1/2  "  confectioners' sugar.............. 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 2 2/3  "  brown sugar....................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 2 2/3  "  oatmeal........................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 4 3/4  "  rolled oats....................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 2 2/3  "  granulated corn meal.............. 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 4 1/3  "  rye meal.......................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 1 7/8  "  rice.............................. 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 4 1/2  "  Graham flour...................... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 3 7/8  "  entire wheat flour................ 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 4 1/3  "  coffee............................ 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 2    "  finely chopped meat............... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 9 large eggs.................................. 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 1 square Baker's chocolate.................... 
 = 1 
 ounce. 
 
 
 1/3 cup almonds blanched and chopped.......... 
 = 1 
 " 
 
 
 A few grains is less than one-eighth teaspoon. 
 
 
 3 teaspoons................................... 
 = 1 
 tablespoon. 
 
 
 16 tablespoons................................ 
 = 1 
 cup. 
 
 
 2 tablespoons butter.......................... 
 = 1 
 ounce. 
 
 
 4 tablespoons flour........................... 
 = 1 
 ounce. 
  
 
 
 TIME TABLES FOR COOKING. 
 
 Boiling. 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 TIME. 
 
 
 Hours. 
 Minutes. 
 
 
 Coffee...................................................... 
 1 to 3 
 
 
 Eggs, soft cooked........................................... 
 6 to 8 
 
 
   "   hard   "   ........................................... 
 35 to 45 
 
 
 Mutton leg........................................ 
 2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Ham, weight 12 to 14 lbs.......................... 
 4 to 5 
  
 
 
 Corned Beef or Tongue............................. 
 3 to 4 
  
 
 
 Turkey, weight 9 lbs.............................. 
 2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Fowl,     "    4 to 5 lbs......................... 
 2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Chicken,  "    3 lbs.............................. 
 1 to 1 1/4 
  
  
 
 

 
 ARTICLES. 
 TIME. 
  
 
 
 Hours. 
 Minutes. 
 
 
 Lobster..................................................... 
 25 to 30 
 
 
 Cod and Haddock,     weight 3 to 5 lbs...................... 
 20 to 30 
 
 
 Halibut, thick piece,  "    2 to 3 lbs...................... 
 30 
 
 
 Bluefish and Bass,     "    4 to 5 lbs...................... 
 40 to 45 
 
 
 Salmon, weight, 2 to 3 lbs.................................. 
 30 to 35 
 
 
 Small fish.................................................. 
 6 to 10 
 
 
 Potatoes, white............................................. 
 20 to 30 
 
 
     "     sweet............................................. 
 15 to 25 
 
 
 Asparagus................................................... 
 20 to 30 
 
 
 Peas........................................................ 
 20 to 60 
 
 
 String Beans...................................... 
 1 to 2 1/2 
  
 
 
 Lima and other Shell Beans........................ 
 1 to 1 1/4 
  
 
 
 Beets, young................................................ 
 45 
 
 
   "    old........................................ 
 3 to 4 
  
 
 
 Cabbage..................................................... 
 35 to 60 
 
 
 Oyster Plant................................................ 
 45 to 60 
 
 
 Turnips..................................................... 
 30 to 45 
 
 
 Onions...................................................... 
 45 to 60 
 
 
 Parsnips.................................................... 
 30 to 45 
 
 
 Spinach..................................................... 
 25 to 30 
 
 
 Green Corn.................................................. 
 12 to 20 
 
 
 Cauliflower................................................. 
 20 to 25 
 
 
 Brussels Sprouts............................................ 
 15 to 20 
 
 
 Tomatoes, stewed............................................ 
 15 to 20 
 
 
 Rice........................................................ 
 20 to 30 
 
 
 Macaroni.................................................... 
 20 to 25 
 
 Broiling. 
 
 Steak, one inch thick....................................... 
 4 to 6 
 
 
   "    one and one-half inch thick.......................... 
 8 to 10 
 
 
 Lamb or Mutton Chops........................................ 
 6 to 8 
 
 
   "        "     "   in paper cases......................... 
 10 
 
 
 Quails or Squabs............................................ 
 8 
 
 
    "        "     in paper cases............................ 
 10 to 12 
 
 
 Chickens.................................................... 
 20 
 
 
 Shad, Bluefish, and Whitefish............................... 
 15 to 20 
 
 
 Slices of Fish, Halibut, Salmon, and Swordfish.............. 
 12 to 15 
 
 
 Small, thin Fish............................................ 
 5 to 8 
 
 
 Liver and Tripe............................................. 
 4 to 5 
  
 
 

 Baking. 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 TIME. 
 
 
 Hours. 
 Minutes. 
 
 
 Bread (white loaf).......................................... 
 45 to 60 
 
 
   "   (Graham loaf)......................................... 
 35 to 45 
 
 
   "   (sticks).............................................. 
 10 to 15 
 
 
 Biscuits or Rolls (raised).................................. 
 12 to 20 
 
 
     "     (baking powder)................................... 
 12 to 15 
 
 
 Gems........................................................ 
 25 to 30 
 
 
 Muffins (raised)............................................ 
 30 
 
 
    "    (baking powder)..................................... 
 20 to 25 
 
 
 Corn Cake (thin)............................................ 
 15 to 20 
 
 
     "     (thick)........................................... 
 30 to 35 
 
 
 Gingerbread................................................. 
 20 to 30 
 
 
 Cookies..................................................... 
 6 to 10 
 
 
 Sponge Cake................................................. 
 45 to 60 
 
 
 Cake (layer)................................................ 
 20 to 30 
 
 
   "  (loaf)................................................. 
 40 to 60 
 
 
   "  (pound)...................................... 
 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 
  
 
 
   "  (fruit)...................................... 
 1 1/4 to 2 
  
 
 
   "  (wedding).................................... 
 3 
  
 
 
 or steam 2 hours and bake 
 1 1/2 
  
 
 
 Baked batter puddings....................................... 
 35 to 45 
 
 
 Bread puddings.................................... 
 1 
  
 
 
 Tapioca or Rice Pudding........................... 
 1 
  
 
 
 Rice Pudding (poor man's)......................... 
 2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Indian  "    ..................................... 
 2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Plum    "    ..................................... 
 2 to 3 
 
 
 Custard "    ............................................... 
 30 to 45 
 
 
   "     (baked in cups)..................................... 
 20 to 25 
 
 
 Pies........................................................ 
 30 to 50 
 
 
 Tarts....................................................... 
 15 to 20 
 
 
 Patties..................................................... 
 20 to 25 
 
 
 Vol-au-vent................................................. 
 50 to 60 
 
 
 Cheese Straws............................................... 
 8 to 10 
 
 
 Scalloped Oysters........................................... 
 25 to 30 
 
 
 Scalloped dishes of cooked mixtures......................... 
 12 to 15 
 
 
 Baked Beans....................................... 
 6 to 8 
  
 
 
 Braised Beef...................................... 
 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 
  
 
 
 Beef, sirloin or rib, rare, weight 5 lbs.......... 
 1 
 5 
 
 
   "      "         "    "      "  10  "........... 
 1 
 30 
 
 
   "      "         "  well done, weight 5 lbs..... 
 1 
 20 
 
 
   "      "         "      "         "   10 " ..... 
 1 
 50 
  
 
 

 
 ARTICLES. 
 TIME. 
 
 
  
 Hours. 
 Minutes. 
 
 
 Beef, rump, rare, weight 10 lbs.................... 
 1 
 35 
 
 
   "     "   well done, weight 10 lbs............... 
 1 
 55 
 
 
   "  (fillet)............................................... 
 20 to 30 
 
 
 Mutton (saddle).................................... 
 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 
  
 
 
 Lamb (leg)......................................... 
 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 
  
 
 
  " (forequarter)................................. 
 1 to 1 1/4 
  
 
 
   "  (chops) in paper cases................................. 
 15 to 20 
 
 
 Veal (leg)......................................... 
 3 1/2 to 4 
  
 
 
   "  (loin)........................................ 
 2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Pork (chine or sparerib)........................... 
 3 to 3 1/2 
  
 
 
 Chicken, weight 3 to 4 lbs......................... 
 1 to 1 1/2 
  
 
 
 Turkey, weight 9 lbs............................... 
 2 1/2 to 3 
  
 
 
 Goose, weight 9 lbs................................ 
 2 
  
 
 
 Duck (domestic).................................... 
 1 to 1 1/4 
  
 
 
   "   (wild)................................................ 
 20 to 30 
 
 
 Grouse...................................................... 
 25 to 30 
 
 
 Partridge................................................... 
 45 to 50 
 
 
 Pigeons (potted)................................... 
 2 
  
 
 
 Fish (thick), weight 3 to 4 lbs............................. 
 45 to 60 
 
 
   "  (small)................................................ 
 20 to 30 
 
 Frying. 
 
 Muffins, Fritters, and Doughnuts............................ 
 3 to 5 
 
 
 Croquettes and Fishballs.................................... 
 1 
 
 
 Potatoes, raw............................................... 
 4 to 8 
 
 
 Breaded Chops............................................... 
 5 to 8 
 
 
 Fillets of Fish............................................. 
 4 to 6 
 
 
 Smelts, Trout, and other small Fish......................... 
 3 to 5 
  
 NOTE.--Length of time for cooking fish and meat does not depend so much on the number of pounds to be cooked as the extent of surface exposed to the heat.  
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER III. 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 A BEVERAGE is any drink. Water is the beverage provided for man by Nature. Water is an essential to life. All beverages contain a large percentage of water, therefore their uses should be considered:-- 
  I. To quench thirst. 
 II. To introduce water into the circulatory system. 
 III. To regulate body temperature. 
 IV. To assist in carrying off waste. 
 V. To nourish. 
 VI. To stimulate the nervous system and various organs. 
 VII. For medicinal purposes. 
 
 Freshly boiled water should be used for making hot beverages; freshly drawn water for making cold beverages.  
  TEA.  Tea is used by more than one-half the human race; and, although the United States is not a tea-drinking country, one and one-half pounds are consumed per capita per annum.  All tea is grown from one species of shrub,  Thea,  the leaves of which constitute the tea of commerce. Climate, elevation, soil, cultivation, and care in picking and curing all go to make up the differences. First-quality tea is made from young, whole leaves. Two kinds of tea are considered:-- 
   Black tea,   made from leaves which have been allowed to ferment before curing.  
  Green tea,   made from unfermented leaves artificially colored.  
 
 
 

 The best black tea comes from India and Ceylon. Some familiar brands are Oolong, Formosa, English Breakfast, Orange Pekoe, and Flowery Pekoe. The last two named often employed at the "five o'clock tea," command high prices; they are made from the youngest leaves. Orange Pekoe is scented with orange leaves. The best green tea comes from Japan. Some familiar brands are Hyson, Japan, and Gunpowder.  From analysis, it has been found that tea is rich in proteid, but taken as an infusion acts as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient. The nutriment is gained from sugar and milk served with it. The stimulating property of tea is due to the alkaloid,  theine,  together with an essential oil; it contains an astringent, tannin. Black tea contains less theine, essential oil, and tannin, than green tea. The tannic acid, developed from the tannin by infusion, injures the coating of the stomach.  Although tea is not a substitute for food, it appears so for a considerable period of time, as its stimulating effect is immediate. It is certain that less food is required where much tea is taken, for by its use there is less wear of the tissues, consequently less need of repair. When taken to excess, it so acts on the nervous system as to produce sleeplessness and insomnia, and finally makes a complete wreck of its victim. Taken in moderation, it acts as a mild stimulant, and ingests a considerable amount of water into the system; it heats the body in winter, and cools the body in summer.  Freshly boiled water should be used for making tea. Boiled, because below the boiling-point the stimulating property, theine, would not be extracted. Freshly boiled, because long cooking renders it flat and insipid to taste on account of escape of its atmospheric gases. Tea should always be infused, never boiled. Long steeping destroys the delicate flavor by developing a larger amount of tannic acid.  
 
 

   How to make Tea. 

  3 teaspoons  tea.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 
  Scald an earthen or china teapot.  Put in  tea,  and pour on  boiling water.  Let stand on back of range or in a warm place five minutes. Strain and serve immediately, with or without  sugar  and  milk.  Avoid second steeping of leaves with addition of a few fresh ones. If this is done, so large an amount of tannin is extracted that various ills are apt to follow.  

   Five o'Clock Tea. 

When  tea  is made in dining or drawing room, a  "Five o'Clock Teakettle"  ( Samovar ), and  tea-ball  or teapot are used.  

   Russian Tea. 

Follow recipe for making  tea.  Russian tea may be served hot or cold, but always without milk. A thin slice of  lemon,  from which seeds have been removed, or a few drops of  lemon-juice,  is allowed for each cup.  Sugar  is added according to taste. In Russia a  preserved strawberry  to each cup is considered an improvement. We imitate our Russian friends by garnishing with a  candied cherry.   

   Iced Tea. 

  4 teaspoons  tea.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 
  Follow recipe for making  tea.  Strain into glasses one-third full of  cracked ice.  Sweeten to taste. The flavor is much finer by chilling the infusion quickly.  

 
 
 COFFEE. 
 The coffee-tree is native to Abyssinia, but is now grown in all tropical countries. It belongs to the genus  Coffea,  of which there are about twenty-two species. The seeds of berries of coffee-trees constitute the coffee of commerce. Each berry contains two seeds, with exception 
 
 

of maleberry, which is a single round seed. In their natural state they are almost tasteless; therefore color, shape, and size determine value. Formerly, coffee was cured by exposure to the sun; but on account of warm climate and sudden rainfalls, coffee was often injured. By the new method coffee is washed, and then dried by steam heat.  In coffee plantations, trees are planted in parallel rows, from six to eight feet apart, and are pruned so as never to exceed six feet in height. Banana-trees are often grown in coffee plantations, advantage being taken of their outspreading leaves, which protect coffee-trees from direct rays of the sun. Brazil produces about two-thirds the coffee used. Central America, Java, and Arabia are also coffee centres.  Tea comes to us ready for use; coffee needs roasting. In process of roasting the seeds increase in size, but lose fifteen per cent in weight. Roasting is necessary to develop the delightful aroma and flavor. Java coffee is considered finest. Mocha commands a higher price, owing to certain acidity and sparkle, which alone is not desirable; but when combined with Java, in proportion of two parts Java to one part Mocha, the coffee best suited to average taste is made. Some people prefer Maleberry Java; so especial care is taken to have male berries separated, that they may be sold for higher price. Old Government Java has deservedly gained a good reputation, as it is carefully inspected, and its sale controlled by Dutch government. Strange as it may seem to the consumer, all coffee sold as Java does not come from the island of Java. Any coffee, wherever grown, having same characteristics and flavor, is sold as Java. The same is true of other kinds of coffee.  The stimulating property of coffee is due to the alkaloid  caffeine,  together with an essential oil. Like tea, it contains an astringent. Coffee is more stimulating than tea, although, weight for weight, tea contains about twice as much  theine  as coffee contains  caffeine.  The smaller 
 
 

proportion of tea used, accounts for the difference. A cup of coffee with breakfast, and a cup of tea with supper, serve as a mild stimulant for an adult, and form a valuable food adjunct, but should never be found in the dietary of a child or dyspeptic. Coffee taken in moderation quickens action of the heart, acts directly upon the nervous system, and assists gastric digestion. Fatigue of body and mind are much lessened by moderate use of coffee; severe exposure to cold can be better endured by the coffee drinker. In times of war, coffee has proved more valuable than alcoholic stimulants to keep up the enduring power of soldiers. Coffee acts as an antidote for opium and alcoholic poisoning. Tea and coffee are much more readily absorbed when taken on an empty stomach; therefore this should be avoided except when used for medicinal purposes. Coffee must be taken in moderation; its excessive use means palpitation of the heart, tremor, insomnia, and nervous prostration.  Coffee is often adulterated with chiccory, beans, peas, and various cereals, which are colored, roasted, and ground. By many, a small amount of chiccory is considered an improvement, owing to the bitter principle and volatile oil which it contains. Chiccory is void of caffeine. The addition of chiccory may be detected by adding cold water to supposed coffee; if chiccory is present, the liquid will be quickly discolored, and chiccory will sink; pure coffee will float. 
  
 Buying of Coffee. 
Coffee should be bought for family use in small quantities, freshly roasted and ground; or, if one has a  coffee-mill,  it may be ground at home as needed. After being ground, unless kept air tight, it quickly deteriorates. If not bought in air-tight cans, with tight-fitting cover, or glass jar, it should be emptied into canister as soon as brought from grocer's.  
 Coffee may be served as filtered coffee, infusion of coffee, or decoction of coffee. Commonly speaking, boiled coffee is preferred, and is more economical for 
 
 

the consumer. Coffee is ground fine, coarse, and medium; and the grinding depends on the way in which it is to be made. For filtered coffee have it finely ground; for boiled, coarse or medium. 
    Filtered Coffee.   (French or Percolated.)  

  1 cup  coffee  (finely ground). 
 6 cups  boiling water.  
 
  Various kinds of  coffee-pots  are on the market for making filtered  coffee.  They all contain a strainer to hold  coffee  without allowing grounds to mix with infusion. Some have additional vessel to hold  boiling water,  upon which  coffee-pot  may rest.  Place  coffee  in strainer, strainer in  coffee-pot,  and pot on the range. Add gradually  boiling water,  and allow it to filter. Cover between additions of  water.  If desired stronger, re-filter. Serve at once with cut  sugar  and  cream.   Put  sugar  and  cream  in cup before hot coffee. There will be perceptible difference if  cream  is added last. If  cream  is not obtainable,  scalded milk  may be substituted, or part  milk  and part  cream  may be used, if a diluted cup of  coffee  is desired.  

   Boiled Coffee. 

  1 cup  coffee.  
 1  egg.  
 1 cup  cold water.  
 6 cups  boiling water.  
 
  Scald a  granite-ware   coffee-pot.  Wash  egg,  break, and beat slightly. Dilute with one-half the  cold water,  add  crushed shell,  and mix with  coffee.  Turn into  coffee-pot,  pour on  boiling water,  and stir thoroughly. Place on front of range, and boil three minutes. If not boiled,  coffee  is cloudy; if boiled too long, too much tannic acid is developed. The spout of pot should be covered or stuffed with soft paper to prevent escape of fragrant aroma. Stir and pour some in a cup to be sure that 
 
 

spout is free from grounds. Return to  coffee-pot  and repeat. Add remaining  cold water,  which perfects clearing.  Cold water  being heavier than  hot water  sinks to the bottom, carrying grounds with it. Place on back of range for ten minutes, where  coffee  will not boil. Serve at once. If any is left over, drain from grounds, and reserve for making of jelly or other dessert.   Egg shells  may be saved and used for clearing  coffee.  Three  egg shells  are sufficient to effect clearing where one cup of  ground coffee  is used. The shell performs no office in clearing except for the albumen which clings to it.  Burnett's Crystal Coffee Settler,  or  salt fish skin,  washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, is used for same purpose.   Coffee  made with an  egg  has a rich flavor which  egg  alone can give. Where strict economy is necessary, if great care is taken,  egg  may be omitted.  Coffee  so made should be served from range, as much motion causes it to become roiled.  Tin is an undesirable material for a  coffee-pot,  as tannic acid acts on such metal and is apt to form a poisonous compound.   When  coffee  and  scalded milk  are served in equal proportions, it is called  Café au lait. 

    Coffee  served with  whipped cream  is called  Vienna Coffee. 

   

   To Make a Small Pot of Coffee. 

Mix one cup  ground coffee  with one  egg  slightly beaten and  crushed shell.  To one-third of this amount add one-third cup  cold water.  Turn into a scalded  coffee-pot,  add one pint  boiling water,  and boil three minutes. Let stand on back of range ten minutes; serve. Keep remaining  coffee  and  egg  closely covered, in a cool place, to use two successive mornings.  

   To Make Coffee for One. 

Allow two tablespoons  ground coffee  to one cup  cold water.  Add  coffee  to  cold water,  cover closely, and let stand over night. In the morning bring to boiling point. If carefully poured, a clear cup of  coffee  may be served.  

 

    After-Dinner Coffee.  ( Black Coffee, or Café Noir. ) 

For after-dinner coffee use twice the quantity of  coffee,  or half the amount of liquid, given in previous recipes. Filtered coffee is often preferred where  milk  or  cream  is not used, as is always the case with black coffee. Serve in  after-dinner coffee cups,  with or without  cut sugar.   After-dinner coffee retards gastric digestion; but where the stomach has been overtaxed by a hearty meal, it may prove beneficial, so great are its stimulating effects.  

 
 
 KOLA. 
 The preparations on the market made from the kola nut have much the same effect upon the system as coffee and chocolate, inasmuch as they contain caffeine and theobromine; they are also valuable for their diastase and a milk-digesting ferment.  
 
 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 
 The cacao tree ( Theobroma cacao ) is native to Mexico. Although successfully cultivated between the twentieth parallels of latitude, its industry is chiefly confined to Mexico, South America, and the West Indies. Cocoa and chocolate are both prepared from seeds of the cocoa bean. The bean pod is from seven to ten inches long, and three to four and one-half inches in diameter. Each pod contains from twenty to forty seeds, imbedded in mucilaginous material. Cocoa beans are dried previous to importation. Like coffee, they need roasting to develop flavor. After roasting, outer covering of bean is removed; this covering makes what is known as  cocoa shells,  which have little nutritive value. The beans are broken and sold as  cocoa nibs.   The various preparations of cocoa on the market are made from ground cocoa nibs, from which, by means of hydraulic pressure, a large amount of fat is expressed, 
 
 

leaving a solid cake. This in turn is pulverized and mixed with sugar, and frequently a small amount of corn-starch or arrowroot. To some preparations cinnamon or vanilla is added. Broma contains both arrowroot and cinnamon.  Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs, but contains a much larger proportion of fat than cocoa preparations. Bitter, sweet, or flavored chocolate is always sold in cakes.  The fat obtained from cocoa bean is  cocoa butter,  which gives to cocoa its principal nutrient.  Cocoa and chocolate differ from tea and coffee inasmuch as they contain nutriment as well as stimulant.  Theobromine,  the active principle, is almost identical with theine and caffeine in its composition and effects.  Many people who abstain from the use of tea and coffee find cocoa indispensable. Not only is it valuable for its own nutriment, but for the large amount of milk added to it. Cocoa may well be placed in the dietary of a child after his third year, while chocolate should be avoided as a beverage, but may be given as a confection. Invalids and those of weak digestion can take cocoa where chocolate would prove too rich. 
   Cocoa Shells. 

  1 cup  cocoa shells.  
 6 cups  boiling water.  
 
  Boil  shells  and  water  three hours; as  water  boils away it will be necessary to add more. Strain and serve with  milk  and  sugar.  By adding one-third cup  cocoa nibs,  a much more satisfactory drink is obtained.  

   Cracked Cocoa. 

  1/2 cup  cracked cocoa.  
 3 pints  boiling water.  
 
  Boil  cracked cocoa  and  water  two hours. Strain, and serve with  milk  and  sugar.  If  cocoa  is pounded in a  mortar  and soaked over night in three pints  water,  it will require but one hour's boiling.  

 

   Breakfast Cocoa. 

  1 1/2 tablespoons  prepared cocoa.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 
  Scald  milk.  Mix  cocoa,   sugar,  and  salt,  dilute with one-half cup  boiling water  to make smooth paste, add remaining  water  and boil one minute; turn into  scalded milk  and beat two minutes, using  Dover egg-beater.   

   Reception Cocoa. 

  3 tablespoons  cocoa.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 A few grains  salt.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 3/4 cup  boiling water.  
 
  Scald  milk.  Mix  cocoa,   sugar,  and  salt,  adding enough  boiling water  to make a smooth paste; add remaining  water  and boil one minute; pour into  scalded milk.  Beat two minutes, using  Dover egg-beater,  when froth will form, preventing scum, which is so unsightly; this is known as  milling.   

   Brandy Cocoa. 

  2 tablespoons  cocoa.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 3 teaspoons  cooking brandy.  
 
  Prepare as Reception Cocoa, and add  brandy  just before milling.  

   Chocolate. 

  1 1/2 squares  Baker's chocolate.  
 4 tablespoons  sugar.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 3 cups  milk.  
 
  Scald  milk.  Melt  chocolate  in small saucepan placed over  hot water,  add  sugar,   salt,  and gradually  boiling water;  when smooth, place on range and boil one minute; add to  scalded milk,  mill, and serve in  chocolate cups  with  whipped cream.  One and one-half ounces  vanilla chocolate  
 
 

may be substituted for  Baker's chocolate;  being sweetened, less  sugar  is required.  

 
  FRUIT DRINKS. 
   Lemonade. 

  1 cup  sugar.  
 1/3 cup  lemon juice.  
 1 pint  water.  
 
  Make syrup by  boiling sugar  and  water  twelve minutes; add  fruit juice,  cool, and dilute with  ice water  to suit individual tastes.  Lemon syrup  may be bottled and kept on hand to use as needed.  

   Pineapple Lemonade. 

  1 pint  water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 quart  ice water.  
 1 can  grated pineapple.  
  Juice 3 lemons.  
 
  Make syrup by  boiling water  and  sugar  ten minutes; add  pineapple  and  lemon juice,  cool, strain, and add  ice water.   

   Orangeade. 

Make  syrup  as for Lemonade. Sweeten  orange juice  with syrup, and dilute by pouring over  crushed ice.   

   Mint Julep. 

  1 quart  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1 pint  claret wine.  
 1 cup  strawberry juice.  
 1 cup  orange juice.  
  Juice 8 lemons.  
 1 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 12 sprigs fresh  mint.  
 
  Make syrup by boiling quart of  water  and  sugar  twenty minutes. Separate  mint  in pieces, add to the  boiling water,  cover, and let stand in warm place five minutes, strain, and add to syrup; add  fruit juices,  and cool. Pour into punch-bowl, add  claret,  and chill with a large piece of  ice;  dilute with  water.  Garnish with fresh  mint leaves  and whole  strawberries.   

 

   Claret Punch. 

  1 quart  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  raisins.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 2 inch piece  stick cinnamon.  
 Few shavings  lemon rind.  
 1 1/3 cups  orange juice.  
 1/3 cup  lemon juice.  
 1 pint  claret wine.  
 
  Put  raisins  in  cold water,  bring slowly to boiling point, and boil twenty minutes; strain, add  sugar,   cinnamon,   lemon rind,  and boil five minutes. Add  fruit juice,  cool, strain, pour in  claret,  and dilute with  ice water.   

   Fruit Punch I. 

  1 quart  cold water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  lemon juice.  
 2 cups  chopped pineapple.  
 1 cup  orange juice.  
 
  Boil  water,   sugar,  and  pineapple  twenty minutes; add  fruit juice,  cool, strain, and dilute with  ice water.   

   Fruit Punch II. 

  1 cup  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1 cup  tea infusion.  
 1 quart  Apollinaris.  
 2 cups  strawberry syrup.  
  Juice 5 lemons.  
  Juice 5 oranges.  
 1 can  grated pineapple.  
 1 cup  Maraschino cherries.  
 
  Make syrup by boiling  water  and  sugar  ten minutes; add  tea,   strawberry syrup,   lemon juice,   orange juice,  and  pineapple;  let stand thirty minutes, strain, and add  ice water  to make one and one-half gallons of liquid. Add  cherries  and  Apollinaris.  Serve in punch-bowl, with large piece of ice. This quantity will serve fifty.  

   Ginger Punch. 

  1 quart  cold water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 lb.  Canton ginger.  
 1/2 cup  orange juice.  
 1/2 cup  lemon juice.  
 
  Chop  ginger,  add to  water  and  sugar,  boil fifteen minutes; add  fruit juice,  cool, strain, and dilute with  crushed ice.   

 

   Unfermented Grape Juice. 

  10 lbs.  grapes.  
 1 cup  water.  
 3 lbs.  sugar.  
 
  Put  grapes  and  water  in  granite stew-pan.  Heat until stones and pulp separate; then strain through  jelly-bag,  add  sugar,  heat to boiling-point, and bottle. This will make one gallon. When served, it should be diluted one-half with  water.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER IV. 
 BREAD AND BREAD MAKING. 
 BREAD is the most important article of food, and history tells of its use thousands of years before the Christian era. Many processes have been employed in making and baking; and as a result, from the first flat cake has come the perfect loaf. The study of bread making is of no slight importance, and deserves more attention than it receives.  Considering its great value, it seems unnecessary and wrong to find poor bread on the table; and would that our standard might be raised as high as that of our friends across the water! Who does not appreciate the loaf produced by the French baker, who has worked months to learn the art of bread making!  Bread is made from flour of wheat, or other cereals, by addition of water, salt, and a ferment. Wheat flour is best adapted for bread making, as it contains gluten in the right proportion to make the spongy loaf. But for its slight deficiency in fat, wheat bread is a perfect food; hence arose the custom of spreading it with butter. It should be remembered, in speaking of wheat bread as perfect food, that it must be made of entire wheat flour. Next to wheat flour ranks rye in importance for bread making; but it is best used in combination with wheat, for alone it makes heavy, sticky, moist bread. Corn also needs to be used in combination with wheat for bread making, for if used alone the bread will be crumbly.  The miller, in order to produce flour (which will make the white loaf, so sightly to many), in the process of grinding wheat has been forced to remove the inner bran coats, 
 
 

so rich in mineral matter, and much of the gluten intimately connected with them.  To better understand the details of bread making, wheat, from which bread is principally made, should be considered.  A grain of wheat consists of (1) an outer covering or husk, which is always removed before milling; (2) bran coats, which contain mineral matter; (3) gluten, the proteid matter and fat; and (4) starch, the centre and largest part of the grain. Wheat is distinguished as  white  and  hard,  or  red  and  soft.  The former is known as  winter wheat,  having been sown in the fall, and living through the winter; the latter is known as  spring wheat,  having been sown in the spring. From winter wheat, pastry flour, sometimes called St. Louis, is made; from spring wheat, bread flour, also called Haxall. St. Louis flour takes its name from the old process of grinding; Haxall, from the name of the inventor of the new process. All flours are now milled by the same process. For difference in composition of wheat flours, consult table in Chapter VI. on Cereals.  Wheat is milled for converting into flour by processes producing essentially the same results, all requiring cleansing, grinding, and bolting. Entire wheat flour has only the outer husk removed, the remainder of the kernel being finely ground.  Graham flour,  confounded with entire wheat, is too often found to be an inferior flour, mixed with coarse bran.  Grinding is accomplished by one of four systems: (1) Low milling; (2) Hungarian system, or high milling; (3) Roller milling; and (4) By a machine known as disintegrator. 
  In  low milling process,   grooved stones are employed for grinding. The stones are inclosed in a metal case, and provision is made within case for passage of air to prevent wheat from becoming overheated. The lower stone being permanently fixed, the upper stone being so balanced above it that grooves may exactly correspond, 
 
 

when upper stone rotates, sharp edges of grooves meet each other, and operate like a pair of scissors. By this process flour is made r eady for b olting by one grinding.  
  In high milling process,   grooved stones are employed, but are kept so far apart that at first the wheat is only bruised, and a series of grindings and siftings is necessary. This process is applicable only to the hardest wheats, and is partially supplanted by roller-milling.  
  In roller milling,   wheat is subjected to action of a pair of steel or chilled-iron horizontal rollers, having toothed surfaces. They revolve in opposite directions, at different rates of speed, and have a cutting action.  
 
 Porcelain rollers, with rough surfaces, are sometimes employed. In this system, grinding is accomplished by cutting rather than crushing. 
  "The  disintegrator   consists of a pair of circular metal disks, set face to face, studded with circles of projecting bars so arranged that circles of bars on one disk alternate with those of the other. The disks are mounted on the same centre, and so closely set to one another that projecting bars of one disk come quite close to plane surface of the other. They are inclosed within an external casing. The disks are caused to rotate in opposite directions with great rapidity, and the grain is almost instantaneously reduced to a powder."  
 
 After grinding comes bolting, by which process the different grades of flour are obtained. The ground wheat is placed in octagonal cylinders (covered with silk or linen bolting-cloth of different degrees of fineness), which are allowed to rotate, thus forcing the wheat through. The flour from first siftings contains the largest percentage of gluten.  Flour is branded under different names to suit manufacturer or dealer. In consequence, the same wheat, milled by the same process, makes flour which is sold under different names.  In buying flour, whether bread or pastry, select the best kept by the grocer with whom you trade. Some of the 
 
 

well-known brands of bread flour are Swan's Down, Bridal Veil, Columbia, Washburn's Extra, and Pillsbury's Best; of pastry, Best St. Louis. Bread flour should be used in all cases where yeast is called for, with few exceptions; in other cases, pastry flour. The difference between bread and pastry flour may be readily determined. Take bread flour in the hand, close hand tightly, then open, and flour will not keep in shape; if allowed to pass through fingers it will feel slightly granular. Take pastry flour in the hand, close hand tightly, open, and flour will be in shape, having impression of the lines of the hand, and feeling soft and velvety to touch. Flour should always be sifted before measuring. 
   Entire wheat flour   differs from ordinary flour, inasmuch as it contains all the gluten found in wheat, the outer husk of kernels only being removed, the remainder ground to different degrees of fineness and left unbolted. Such flours are sold by the different health-food companies, who have agencies in the large cities. Franklin Mills flour is included in this class.  
  Gluten,   the proteid of wheat, is a gray, tough, elastic substance, insoluble in water. On account of its great power of expansion, it holds the gas developed in bread dough by fermentation, which otherwise would escape.  
 
 
 Yeast. 
 Yeast is a microscopic plant of fungous growth, and is the lowest form of vegetable life. It consists of spores, or germs, found floating in air, and belongs to a family of which there are many species. These spores grow by budding and division, and multiply very rapidly under favorable conditions, and produce fermentation. 
   Fermentation   is the process by which, under influence of air, warmth, moisture, and some ferment, sugar (or dextrose, starch converted into sugar) is changed into alcohol (C 2 H 5 HO) and carbon-dioxide (CO 2 ). The product of all fermentation is the same. Three kinds are 
 
 

considered,--alcoholic, acetic, and lactic. Where bread dough is allowed to ferment by addition of yeast, the fermentation is  alcoholic;  where alcoholic fermentation continues too long,  acetic  fermentation sets in, which is a continuation of alcoholic.  Lactic  fermentation is fermentation which takes place when milk sours.  
 
 Liquid, dry or compressed yeast, may be used for raising bread. The compressed yeast cakes done up in tin foil have long proved satisfactory, and are now almost universally used, having replaced the home-made liquid yeast. Never use a yeast cake unless perfectly fresh, which may be determined by its light color and absence of dark streaks.  The  yeast plant  is killed at 212° F.; life is suspended, but not entirely destroyed, at 32° F. The temperature best suited for its growth is from 65° to 68°F. The most favorable conditions for the growth of yeast are a warm, moist, sweet, nitrogenous soil. These must be especially considered in bread making.  
 
 Bread Making. 
   Fermented bread   is made by mixing to a dough, flour, with a definite quantity of water, milk, or water and milk, salt, and a ferment. Sugar is usually added to hasten fermentation. Dough is then kneaded that the ingredients may be thoroughly incorporated, covered, and allowed to rise in a temperature of 68° F., until dough has doubled its bulk. This change has been caused by action of the ferment, which attacks some of the starch in flour, and changes it to sugar, and sugar in turn to alcohol and carbon dioxide, thus lightening the whole mass. Dough is then kneaded a second time to break bubbles and distribute evenly the carbon dioxide. It is shaped in loaves, put in greased bread pans (they being half filled), covered, allowed to rise in temperature same as for first rising, to double its bulk. If risen too long, it will be full of large holes; if not risen long enough, 
 
 

it will be heavy and soggy. If pans containing loaves are put in too hot a place while rising, a heavy streak will be found near bottom of loaf.  
 
  
 How to Shape Loaves and Biscuits. 
To shape bread dough in loaves, divide dough in parts, each part large enough for a loaf, knead until smooth, and if possible avoid seams in under part of loaf. If baked in brick pan, place two loaves in one pan, brushed between with a little melted butter. If baked in long shallow pan, when well kneaded, roll with both hands to lengthen, care being taken that it is smooth and of uniform thickness. Where long loaves are baked on sheets, shape and roll loosely in a towel sprinkled with corn meal for last rising.  To shape bread dough in biscuits, pull or cut off as many small pieces (having them of uniform size) as there are to be biscuits. Flour palms of hands slightly; take up each piece and shape separately, lifting, with thumb and first two fingers of right hand, and placing in palm of left hand, constantly moving dough round and round, while folding towards the centre; when smooth, turn it over and roll between palms of hands. Place in greased pans near together, brushed between with a little melted butter, which will cause biscuits to separate easily after baking. For finger rolls, shape biscuits and roll with one hand on part of board where there is no flour, until of desired length, care being taken to make smooth, of uniform size, and round at ends.  Biscuits may be shaped in a great variety of ways, but they should always be small. Large biscuits, though equally good, never tempt one by their daintiness.  
 Bread is often brushed over with milk before baking, to make a darker crust.  Where bread is allowed to rise over night, a small piece of yeast cake must be used; one-fourth yeast cake to one pint liquid is sufficient, one-third yeast cake to one quart liquid. Bread mixed and baked during the day requires 
 
 

a larger quantity of yeast; one yeast cake, or sometimes even more, to one pint of liquid. Bread dough mixed with a larger quantity of yeast should be watched during rising, and cut down as soon as mixture doubles its bulk. If proper care is taken, the bread will be found most satisfactory, having neither "yeasty" nor sour taste.  Fermented bread was formerly raised by means of leaven.  
 
 Baking of Bread. 
 Bread is baked: (1) To kill ferment, (2) to make soluble the starch, (3) to drive off alcohol and carbon dioxide, and (4) to form brown crust of pleasant flavor. Bread should be baked in a hot oven. If the oven be too hot the crust will brown quickly before the heat has reached the centre, and prevent further rising; loaf should continue rising for first fifteen minutes of baking, when it should begin to brown, and continue browning for the next twenty minutes. The last fifteen minutes it should finish baking, when the heat may be reduced. When bread is done, it will not cling to sides of pan, and may be easily removed. Biscuits require more heat than loaf bread, should continue rising the first five minutes, and begin to brown in eight minutes. Experience is the best guide for testing temperature of oven. Various oven thermometers have been made, but none have proved practical. Bread may be brushed over with melted butter, three minutes before removal from oven, if a more tender crust is desired.  
 
 Care of Bread after Baking. 
 Remove loaves at once from pans, and place side down on a  wire bread or cake cooler.  If crisp crust is desired, allow bread to cool without covering; if soft crust, cover with a towel during cooling. When cool, put in tin box or stone jar, and cover closely.  Never keep bread wrapped in cloth, as the cloth will absorb moisture and transmit an unpleasant taste to bread. 
 
 

 Bread tins  or jars should be washed and scalded twice a week in winter, and every other day in summer; otherwise bread is apt to mould. As there are so many ways of using small and stale pieces of bread, care should be taken that none is wasted. 
   Unfermented Bread   is raised without a ferment, the carbon dioxide being produced by the use of soda (alkaline salt, and an acid). Soda, employed in combination with cream of tartar, for raising mixtures, in proportion of one-third soda to two-thirds cream of tartar, was formerly used to a great extent, but has been generally superseded by baking powder.  
  Soda bicarbonate   (NaHCO 2 ) is manufactured from sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt.  
  Baking powder   is composed of soda and cream of tartar in definite, correct proportions, mixed with small quantity of dry material (flour or corn-starch) to keep action from taking place. If found to contain alum or ammonia, it is impure. In using baking powder, allow two teaspoons baking powder to each cup of flour, when eggs are not used; to egg mixtures allow one and one-half teaspoons baking powder. When a recipe calls for soda and cream of tartar, in substituting baking powder use double amount of cream of tartar given.  
 
 These rules apply to the various soda and cream of tartar baking powders on the market. Horsford's Baking Powder, the only mineral one, requires one-third less than others.  Soda and cream of tartar, or baking powder mixtures, are made light by liberation of gas in mixture; the gas in soda is set free by the acid in cream of tartar; in order to accomplish this, moisture and heat are both required. As soon as moisture is added to baking powder mixtures, the gas will begin to escape; hence the necessity of baking as soon as possible. If baking powder only is used for raising, put mixture to be cooked in a hot oven. 
   Cream of tartar   (HKC 4 O 6 H 4 ) is obtained from argols found adhering to bottom and sides of  wine casks,  which 
 
 

are ninety per cent cream of tartar. The argols are ground and dissolved in boiling water, coloring matter removed by filtering through animal charcoal, and by a process of recrystallization the cream of tartar of commerce is obtained.  
 
 The acid found in molasses, sour milk, and lemon juice, will liberate gas in soda, but the action is much quicker than when cream of tartar is used.  Fermented and unfermented breads are raised to be made light and porous, that they may be easily acted upon by the digestive ferments. Some mixtures are made light by beating sufficiently to enclose a large amount of air, and when baked in a hot oven air is forced to expand. 
   Aërated bread   is made light by carbon dioxide forced into dough under pressure. The carbon dioxide is generated from sulphuric acid and lime. Aërated bread is of close texture, and has a flavor peculiar to itself. It is a product of the baker's skill, but has found little favor except in few localities.  
 
 
   Water Bread. 

  2 cups of  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  lard.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 6 cups sifted  flour.  
 
  Put  butter,   lard,   sugar,  and  salt  in  bread raiser,  or large bowl without a lip; pour on  boiling water;  when luke-warm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and five cups of  flour;  then stir until thoroughly mixed, using a knife or mixing-spoon. Add remaining  flour,  mix, and turn on a floured board, leaving a clean bowl; knead until mixture is smooth, elastic to touch, and bubbles may be seen under the surface. Some practice is required to knead quickly, but the motion once acquired will never be forgotten. Return to bowl, cover with a clean cloth kept for the purpose, and board or tin cover; let rise over night in temperature of 65° F. In morning cut down; this is accomplished by cutting 
 
 

through and turning over dough several times with a  case knife,  and checks fermentation for a short time; dough may be again raised, and recut down if it is not convenient to shape into loaves or biscuit after first cutting. When properly cared for, bread need never sour. Toss on board slightly floured, knead, shape into loaves or biscuits, place in greased pans, having pans nearly half full. Cover, let rise again to double its bulk, and bake in hot oven. (See Baking of Bread and Time Table for Baking.) This recipe will make a double loaf of bread and pan of biscuit.  Cottolene,   coto-suet,  or  beef drippings  may be used for shortening, one-third less being required. Bread shortened with  butter  has a good flavor, but is not as white as when  lard  is used.  

   Milk and Water Bread. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  lard.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 6 cups sifted  flour.  
 
  Prepare and bake as Water Bread. Bread may be mixed, raised, and baked in five hours, by using one  yeast cake.  Bread made in this way has proved most satisfactory. It is usually mixed in the morning, and the cook is able to watch the dough while rising and keep it at uniform temperature. It is often desirable to place bowl containing dough in pan of  water,  keeping  water  at uniform temperature of from 95° to 100° F.  

   Entire Wheat Bread. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  sugar  or 
 1/3 cup  molasses.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 4 1/3 cups  entire wheat flour.  
 
  Add sweetening and  salt  to  milk,  cool, and when lukewarm add dissolved  yeast cake  and  flour;  beat well, cover, and let rise to double its bulk. Again beat, and turn into 
 
 

greased bread pans, having pans one-half full; let rise, and bake. Entire Wheat Bread should not quite double its bulk during last rising. This mixture may be baked in  gem pans.   

   Entire Wheat and Flour Bread. 

Use same ingredients as for Entire Wheat Bread, with exception of flour. For flour use three and one-fourth cups  entire wheat and two and three-fourths cups white flour.  The dough should be slightly kneaded, and if handled quickly will not stick to board. Loaves and biscuit should be shaped with hands instead of pouring into pans as in Entire Wheat Bread.  

   Graham Bread. 

  2 1/2 cups hot liquid ( water,  or  milk and water ). 
 1/3 cup  molasses.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 3 cups  Graham flour.  
 
  Prepare and bake as Entire Wheat Bread. The bran remaining in sieve after sifting Graham flour should be discarded.  

   Third Bread. 

  2 cups  lukewarm water.  
 1  yeast cake.  
 1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1 cup  rye flour.  
 1 cup  granulated corn meal.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 
  Dissolve  yeast cake  in  water,  add remaining ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Let rise, shape, and bake as Entire Wheat Bread.  

   Quaker Oats Bread. 

  2 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/2  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/2 cup  lukewarm water.  
 1 cup  Quaker Rolled Oats.  
 4 3/4 cups  flour.  
 
  Add  boiling water  to  oats  and let stand one hour; add  molasses,   salt,  dissolved  yeast cake,  and  flour;  let rise, 
 
 

beat thoroughly, turn into buttered bread pans, let rise again, and bake. By using one-half cup less  flour,  the dough is better suited for biscuits, but, being soft, is difficult to handle. To make shaping of biscuits easy, take up mixture by spoonfuls, drop into plate of  flour,  and have palms of hands well covered with  flour  before attempting to shape.  

   Rye Bread. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  lard.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/3 cup  brown sugar.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 3 cups  flour.  
  Rye meal.  
 
  To  milk  and  water  add  lard,   butter,   sugar,  and  salt;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and  flour,  beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise until light. Add  rye meal  until dough is stiff enough to knead; knead thoroughly, let rise, shape in loaves, let rise again, and bake.  

   Boston Brown Bread. 

  1 cup  rye-meal.  
 1 cup  granulated corn-meal.  
 1 cup  Graham flour.  
 3/4 tablespoons  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 3/4 cup  molasses.  
 2 cups  sour milk,  or 1 3/4 cups  sweet milk  or  water.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients, add  molasses  and  milk,  stir until well mixed, turn into a well-buttered mould, and steam three and one-half hours. The cover should be buttered before being placed on mould, and then tied down with string; otherwise the bread in rising might force off cover. Mould should never be filled more than two-thirds full. A  melon-mould  or one-pound baking powder boxes make the most attractive-shaped loaves, but a  five-pound lard pail  answers the purpose. For steaming, place mould on a  trivet  in kettle containing  boiling water,  allowing  water  to come half-way up around mould, cover closely, and steam, adding, as needed, more  boiling water.   

 

   Indian Bread. 

  1 1/2 cups  Graham flour.  
 1 cup  Indian meal.  
 1/2 tablespoon  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1 2/3 cups  milk.  
 
  Mix and steam as Boston Brown Bread.  

   Steamed Graham Bread. 

  3 cups  Arlington meal.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  molasses  (scant). 
 2 1/2 cups  sour milk.  
 
  Mix as Boston Brown Bread, and steam four hours. This bread may often be eaten when bread containing corn-meal could not be digested.  

   Parker House Rolls. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
  Flour.  
 
  Add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and three cups of  flour.  Beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise until light; cut down, and add enough  flour  to knead (it will take about two and one-half cups). Let rise again, toss on slightly floured board, knead, pat, and roll out to one-third inch thickness. Shape with  biscuit-cutter,  first dipped in  flour.  Dip the handle of a  case knife  in  flour,  and with it make a crease through the middle of each piece; brush over one-half of each piece with  melted butter,  fold, and press edges together. Place in greased pan, one inch apart, cover, let rise, and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. As rolls rise they will part slightly, and if hastened in rising are apt to lose their shape.  Parker House Rolls may be shaped by cutting or tearing off small pieces of dough, and shaping round like a biscuit; place in rows on floured board, cover, and let 
 
 

rise fifteen minutes. With handle of large wooden spoon, or toy rolling-pin, roll through centre of each biscuit, brush edge of lower halves with  melted butter,  fold, press lightly, place in buttered pan one inch apart, cover, let rise, and bake.  

   Salad or Dinner Rolls. 

Use same ingredients as for Parker House Rolls, allowing one-fourth cup  butter.  Shape in small biscuits, place in rows on a floured board, cover with cloth and pan, and let rise until light and well puffed. Flour handle of wooden spoon and make a deep crease in middle of each biscuit, take up, and press edges together. Place closely in buttered pan, cover, let rise, and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in hot oven. From this same mixture crescents, braids, twists, bow-knots, and other fancy shapes may be made.  

   Sticks. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoon  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
  White 1 egg.  
 3 3/4 cups  flour.  
 
  Add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake,   white of egg  well beaten, and  flour.  Knead, let rise, shape, let rise again, and start baking in a hot oven, reducing heat, that sticks may be crisp and dry. To shape sticks, first shape as small biscuits, roll on board (where there is no flour) with hands until eight inches in length, keeping of uniform size and rounded ends, which may be done by bringing fingers close to, but not over, ends of sticks.  

   Swedish Rolls. 

Use recipe for Salad Rolls. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with  butter,  and sprinkle with two tablespoons  sugar  mixed with one-third teaspoon  cinnamon,  
 
 

one-third cup stoned  raisins  finely chopped, and two tablespoons chopped  citron;  roll up like jelly roll, and cut in three-fourths inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close together, flat side down. When rolls are taken from oven, brush over with  white of egg  slightly beaten, diluted with one-half tablespoon  water;  return to oven to dry egg, and thus glaze top.  

   Sweet French Rolls. 

  1 cup  milk.  
 1  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
  Flour.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  egg.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1/8 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 
  Scald  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and one and one-half cups  flour;  beat well, cover, and let rise until light. Add  sugar,   salt,   eggs  well beaten,  mace,  and  butter,  and enough more  flour  to knead; knead, let rise again, shape, and bake as Salad Rolls. This same mixture may be rolled in a long   to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with  butter,  rolled up like a jelly roll, and cut in one inch pieces. Place pieces in pan close together, flat side down.  

   Luncheon Rolls. 

  1/2 cup  scalded milk.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 2 tablespoons  lukewarm water.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 1  egg.  
 Few gratings from  rind of lemon.  
  Flour.  
 
  Add  sugar  and  salt  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and three-fourths cup  flour.  Cover and let rise; then add  butter,   egg  well beaten, grated  rind of lemon,  and enough  flour  to knead. Let rise again, roll to one-half inch thickness, shape with small  biscuit-cutter,  place in buttered pan close together, let rise again, and bake.  

 

   French Rusks. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
  Flour.  
 1  egg.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 3/4 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt  to  scalded milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and three cups  flour.  Cover and let rise; add  egg  and  egg yolks  well beaten, and enough  flour  to knead. Let rise again, and shape as Parker House Rolls. Before baking, make three parallel creases on top of each roll. When nearly done, brush over with  whites of eggs  beaten slightly, diluted with one tablespoon  cold water  and  vanilla.  Sprinkle with  sugar.   

   Rusks (Zwieback). 

  1/2 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2  yeast cakes.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 3  eggs.  
  Flour.  
 
  Dissolve  yeast cakes  in  milk;  when lukewarm, add  salt  and one cup  flour;  cover, and let rise until very light; then add  sugar,   butter,   eggs  unbeaten, and  flour  enough to handle. Shape as finger rolls, and place close together on a buttered sheet in parallel rows, two inches apart; let rise again and bake twenty minutes. When cold, cut diagonally in one-half inch slices, and brown evenly in oven.  

   German Coffee Bread. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/3 cup  butter,  or  butter  and  lard.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  egg.  
 1/3  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm milk.  
 1/2 cup  raisins  stoned and cut in pieces. 
 
  Add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake,   egg  well beaten,  flour  to make 
 
 

stiff batter, and  raisins;  cover, and let rise over night; in morning spread in buttered  dripping-pan  one-half inch thick. Cover and let rise again. Before baking, brush over with beaten  egg,  and cover with following mixture: Melt three tablespoons  butter,  add one-third cup  sugar  and one teaspoon  cinnamon.  When  sugar  is partially melted, add three tablespoons  flour.   

   Coffee Cakes (Brioche). 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  yolks of eggs.  
 1/2 cup whole  eggs.  
 2/3 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 2  yeast cakes.  
 1/2 teaspoon  extract lemon,  or 
 2 pounded  cardamom seeds.  
 4 2/3 cups  flour.  
 
   French Confectioner.   Cool  milk;  when lukewarm, add  yeast cakes,  and when they are dissolved add remaining ingredients, and beat thoroughly with hand ten minutes; let rise six hours. Keep in  ice-box  over night; in morning turn on floured board, roll in long rectangular piece one-fourth inch thick; spread with softened  butter,  fold from sides toward centre to make three layers. Cut off pieces three-fourths inch wide; cover and let rise. Take each piece separately in hands and twist from ends in opposite directions, coil and bring ends together at top of cake. Let rise in pans and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven; cool and brush over with  confectioners' sugar,  moistened with enough  boiling water  to spread.  

   Buns. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  raisins  stoned and cut in quarters. 
 1 teaspoon  extract lemon.  
  Flour.  
 
  Add one-half  sugar  and  salt  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and one and one-half cups  flour;  cover, and let rise until light; add  butter,  remaining  sugar,  
 
 

 raisins,   lemon,  and enough  flour  to knead; let rise, shape like biscuits, let rise again, and bake. If wanted glazed, brush over with beaten  egg  before baking.  

   Hot Cross Buns. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 3/4 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 1  egg.  
 1/4 cup  raisins  stoned and quartered, or 
 1/4 cup  currants.  
 
  Add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake,   cinnamon,   flour,  and  egg  well beaten; when thoroughly mixed, add  raisins,  cover, and let rise over night. In morning, shape in forms of large biscuits, place in pan one inch apart, let rise, brush over with beaten  egg,  and bake twenty minutes; cool, and with ornamental frosting make a cross on top of each bun.  

   Raised Muffins. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 1  egg.  
 4 cups  flour.  
 
  Add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt  to  milk  and  water;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake,   egg  well beaten, and  flour;  beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered  muffin rings  two-thirds full; let rise until rings are full, and bake thirty minutes in hot oven.  

   Grilled Muffins. 

Put buttered  muffin rings  on a hot greased griddle. Fill one-half full with  raised muffin mixture,  and cook slowly until well risen and browned underneath; turn muffins and rings and brown the other side. This is a convenient way of cooking muffins when oven is not in condition for baking.  

 

   Raised Oatmeal Muffins. 

  3/4 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm milk.  
 1 cup  cold cooked oatmeal.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 
  Add  sugar  and  salt  to  scalded milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake.  Work  oatmeal  into  flour  with tips of fingers, and add to first mixture; beat thoroughly, cover, and let rise over night. In morning, fill buttered iron  gem pans  two-thirds full, let rise on back of range that pan may gradually heat and mixture rise to fill pan. Bake in moderate oven twenty-five to thirty minutes.  

   Squash Biscuits. 

  1/2 cup  squash  (steamed and sifted). 
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 
  Add  squash,   sugar,   salt,  and  butter  to  milk;  when lukewarm, add dissolved  yeast cake  and  flour;  cover, and let rise over night. In morning shape into  biscuits,  let rise and bake.  

   Dry Toast. 

Cut  stale bread  in one-fourth inch slices. Crust may or may not be removed. Put slices on wire toaster, lock toaster and place over clear fire to dry, holding some distance from coals; turn and dry other side. Hold nearer to coals and color a golden brown on each side. Toast, if piled compactly and allowed to stand, will soon become moist. Toast may be buttered at table or before sending to table.  

   Water Toast. 

Dip slices of  dry toast  quickly in  boiling salted water,  allowing one-half teaspoon  salt  to one cup  boiling water.  Spread slices with  butter,  and serve at once.  

 

   Milk Toast I. 

  1 pint  scalded milk.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  bread flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
  Cold water.  
 6 slices  dry toast.  
 
  Add  cold water  gradually to  flour  to make a smooth, thin paste. Add to  milk,  stirring constantly until thickened, cover, and cook twenty minutes; then add  salt  and  butter  in small pieces. Dip slices of toast separately in sauce; when soft, remove to  serving dish.  Pour remaining sauce over all.  

   Milk Toast II. 

Use ingredients given in Milk Toast I., omitting cold water, and make as Thin White Sauce. Dip  toast  in  sauce.   

   Brown Bread Milk Toast. 

Make same as Milk Toast, using slices of  toasted brown bread  in place of white bread.  Brown bread  is better toasted by first drying slices in oven.  

   Cream Toast. 

Substitute  cream  for milk, and omit butter in recipe for Milk Toast I. or II.  

   Tomato Cream Toast. 

  1 1/2 cups  stewed and strained tomato.  
 1/2 cup  scalded cream.  
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 6 slices  toast.  
 
  Put  butter  in saucepan; when melted and bubbling, add  flour,  mixed with  salt,  and stir in gradually  tomato,  to which  soda  has been added, then  cream  and  butter.  Dip slices of toast in sauce. Serve as soon as made.  

 

   German Toast. 

  3  eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 6 slices  stale bread.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add  salt,   sugar,  and  milk;  strain into a shallow dish. Soak  bread  in mixture until soft. Cook on a hot, well-greased griddle; brown on one side, turn and brown other side. Serve for breakfast or luncheon, or with a sauce for dessert.  

   Brewis. 

Break stale bits or slices of  brown and white bread  in small pieces, allowing one and one-half cups  brown bread  to one-half cup  white bread.  Butter a hot frying-pan, put in  bread,  and cover with equal parts  milk  and  water.  Cook until soft; add  butter  and  salt  to taste.  

 
 Bread for Garnishing. 
 Dry toast is often used for garnishing, cut in various shapes. Always shape before toasting. Cubes of bread, toast points, and small oblong pieces are most common. Cubes of stale bread, from which centres are removed, are fried in deep fat and called croûstades; half-inch cubes, browned in butter, or fried in deep fat, are called croûtons.  
 
 Uses for Stale Bread. 
 All pieces of bread should be saved and utilized. Large pieces are best for toast. Soft stale bread, from which crust is removed, when crumbed, is called stale bread crumbs, or raspings, and is used for puddings, griddle-cakes, omelets, scalloped dishes, and dipping food to be fried. Remnants of bread, from which crusts have not been removed, are dried in oven, rolled, and sifted. These are called dry bread crumbs, and are useful for crumbing croquettes, cutlets, fish, meat, etc.  
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER V. 
 BISCUITS, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND SHORTCAKES. 
 
 Batters, Sponges, and Doughs. 
 BATTER is a mixture of flour and some liquid (usually combined with other ingredients, as sugar, salt, eggs, etc.), of consistency to pour easily, or to drop from a spoon.  Batters are termed thin or thick, according to their consistency.  Sponge is a batter to which yeast is added.  Dough differs from batter inasmuch as it is stiff enough to be handled.  
   Baking Powder Biscuit I. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  lard.  
 3/4 cup  milk  and  water  in equal parts. 
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, and sift twice.  Work in  butter  and  lard  with tips of fingers; add gradually the liquid, mixing with knife to a soft dough. It is impossible to determine the exact amount of liquid, owing to differences in  flour.  Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll lightly to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with a  biscuit-cutter.  Place on buttered pan, and bake in hot oven twelve to fifteen minutes. If baked in too slow an oven, the gas will escape before it has done its work.  

 

   Baking Powder Biscuit II. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix and bake as Baking Powder Biscuit I.  

   Emergency Biscuit. 

Use recipe for Baking Powder Biscuit I. or II., with the addition of more  milk,  that mixture may be dropped from spoon without spreading. Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered pan, one-half inch apart. Brush over with  milk,  and bake in hot oven eight minutes.  

   Fruit Rolls (Pin Wheel Biscuit). 

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
 1/3 cup stoned  raisins  (finely chopped). 
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  citron  (finely chopped). 
 1/3 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 
  Mix as Baking Powder Biscuit II. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, brush over with  melted butter,  and sprinkle with  fruit,   sugar,  and  cinnamon.  Roll like a jelly roll; cut off pieces three-fourths inch in thickness. Place on buttered tin, and bake in hot oven fifteen minutes.  Currants  may be used in place of  raisins  and  citron.   

   One Egg Muffin I. 

  3 1/2 cups  flour.  
 5 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 3/4 cups  milk.  
 3 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 1  egg.  
 3 tablespoons  sugar.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; add gradually  milk,   egg  well beaten, and  melted butter.  Bake in buttered  gem pans  twenty-five minutes. If iron pans are used they 
 
 

must be previously heated. This recipe makes thirty muffins. Use half the proportions given and a small  egg,  if half the number is required.  

   One Egg Muffin II. 

  2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and bake as One Egg Muffin I.  

   Twin Mountain Muffins. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 The number 3/4 has been overwritten with the number 1 in the original text. 
 
 2 cups  flour.  
 The word "bread" has been written in between "cups" and "flour" in the original text. 
 
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 The number 3 has been overwritten with the number 5 in the original text. 
 
 1/2 t  salt.  
 Handwritten inscription. 
 
 
  Cream the  butter;  add  sugar  and  egg  well beaten; sift  baking powder  with  flour,  and add to the first mixture, alternating with  milk.  Bake in buttered tin  gem pans  twenty-five minutes.  

   Queen of Muffins. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup  milk  (scant). 
 1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Mix and bake as Twin Mountain Muffins.  

    Berry Muffins I  (Without eggs.) 

  2 cups  flour.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 cup  milk  (scant). 
 1 cup  berries.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in  butter  with tips of fingers; add  milk  and  berries.   

 

   Berry Muffins II. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 2 2/3 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  berries.  
 
  Cream the  butter;  add gradually  sugar  and  egg  well beaten; mix and sift  flour,   baking powder,  and  salt,  reserving 1/4 cup  flour  to be mixed with  berries  and added last; add the remainder alternately with  milk.   

   Rice Muffins. 

  2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1 cup  cooked rice.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix and sift  flour,   salt,  and  baking powder;  work in  rice  with tips of fingers; add gradually  milk,   egg  well beaten, and  butter;  bake in buttered  muffin rings  placed in buttered pan or buttered  gem pans.   

   Oatmeal Muffins. 

  1 cup  cooked oatmeal.  
 1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and bake as Rice Muffins.  

   Quaker Muffins. 

  2/3 cup  rolled oats.  
 1 1/3 cups  flour.  
 3 tablespoons  sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Turn  scalded milk  on  rolled oats,  let stand five minutes; add  sugar,   salt,  and  melted butter;  sift in  flour  and  baking powder,  mix thoroughly, and add  egg  well beaten.  

 

   Graham Muffins I. 

  1 1/4 cups  graham flour.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 1/3 cup  molasses.  
 3/4 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; add  milk  to  molasses,  and combine mixtures.  

   Graham Muffins II. 

  1 cup  graham or entire wheat flour.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; add  milk  gradually,  egg  well beaten, and  melted butter;  bake in hot oven in buttered  gem pans  twenty-five minutes.  

   Rye Muffins I. 

Make as Graham Muffins II., substituting  rye meal  for graham flour.  

   Rye Muffins II. 

  1 1/4 cups  rye meal.  
 1 1/4 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  molasses.  
 1 1/4 cups  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and bake as Graham Muffins II., adding  molasses  with  milk.   

   Corn Meal Gems. 

  1/2 cup  corn meal.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and bake as Graham Muffins II.  

 

   Berkshire Muffins. 

  1/2 cup  corn meal.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 1/2 cup  cooked rice.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2/3 cup  scalded milk  (scant). 
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Turn  scalded milk  on meal, let stand five minutes; add  rice,  and  flour  mixed and sifted with remaining dry ingredients. Add  yolk of egg  well beaten,  butter,  and  white of egg  beaten stiff and dry.  

   Golden Corn Cake. 

  3/4 cup  corn meal.  
 1 1/4 cups  flour.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; add  milk,   egg  well beaten, and  butter;  bake in shallow buttered pan in hot oven twenty minutes.  

   Corn Cake (sweetened with Molasses). 

  1 cup  corn meal.  
 3/4 cup  flour.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  molasses.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and bake as Golden Corn Cake, adding  molasses  to  milk.   

   White Corn Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/3 cups  milk.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 1 1/4 cups  white corn meal.  
 1 1/4 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Cream the  butter;  add  sugar  gradually; add  milk,  alternating with dry ingredients, mixed and sifted. Beat thoroughly; add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Bake in buttered cake pan thirty minutes.  

 

   Susie's Spider Corn Cake. 

  1 1/2 cups  corn meal.  
 2 cups  sour milk.  
 1 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 2  eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Mix  soda,   salt,  and  corn meal;  gradually add  eggs  well beaten and  milk.  Heat frying-pan, grease sides and bottom of pan with  butter,  turn in the mixture, place on middle grate in hot oven, and cook twenty minutes.  

   Pop-overs. 

  1 cup  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 7/8 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix  salt  and  flour;  add  milk  gradually, in order to obtain a smooth batter. Add  egg,  beaten until light, and  butter;  beat two minutes,--using  Dover egg-beater, --turn into hissing hot buttered iron  gem pans,  and bake thirty to thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. They may be baked in buttered earthen cups, when the bottom will have a glazed appearance. Small round iron  gem pans  are best for Pop-overs.  

   Graham Pop-overs. 

  2/3 cup  entire wheat flour.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 7/8 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  melted butter.  
 
  Prepare and bake as Pop-overs.  

   Breakfast Puffs. 

  1 cup  flour.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/2 cup  water.  
 
  Mix  milk  and  water;  add gradually to  flour,  and beat with  Dover egg-beater  until very light. Bake as Pop-overs.  

 

   Fadges. 

  1 cup  entire wheat flour.  
 1 cup  cold water.  
 
  Add  water  gradually to  flour,  and beat with  Dover egg-beater  until very light. Bake as Pop-overs.  

   Maryland Biscuit. 

  1 pint  flour.  
 1/3 cup  lard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
  Milk  and  water  in equal quantities. 
 
   Southern Pupil.   Mix  flour  and  salt;  work in  lard  with tips of fingers, and moisten to a stiff dough. Toss on slightly floured board, and beat with rolling-pin thirty minutes, continually folding over the dough. Roll one-third inch in thickness, shape with small  round cutter,  prick with fork, and place on a buttered tin. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.  

 
 GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
   Sour Milk Griddle-Cakes. 

  2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 cups  sour milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and sift  flour,   salt,  and  soda;  add  sour milk,  and  egg  well beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased hot griddle; cook on one side. When puffed, full of bubbles, and cooked on edges, turn, and cook other side. Serve with  butter  and  maple syrup.   

   Sweet Milk Griddle-Cakes. 

  3 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; beat  egg,  add  milk,  and pour slowly on first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and add  butter.  Cook as Sour Milk Griddle-Cakes.  

 

   Entire Wheat Griddle-Cakes. 

  1/2 cup  entire wheat flour.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 3 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 1/4 cups  milk.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Prepare and cook as Sweet Milk Griddle-Cakes.  

   Corn Griddle-Cakes. 

  2 1/4 cups  flour.  
 1/2 cup  corn meal.  
 1 1/4 tablespoons  baking powder.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 
  Add meal to  boiling water,  and boil five minutes; turn into bowl, add  milk,  and remaining dry ingredients mixed and sifted, then the  egg  well beaten, and  butter.  Cook as other griddle-cakes.  

   Rice Griddle-Cakes I. 

  2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 cup cold  cooked rice.  
 1 tablespoon  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in  rice  with tips of fingers; add  egg  well beaten,  milk,  and  butter.  Cook as other griddle-cakes.  

   Rice Griddle-Cakes II. 

  1 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  warm boiled rice.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 7/8 cup  flour.  
 
  Pour  milk  over  rice  and  salt,  add  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon color,  butter,   flour,  and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff and dry.  

 

   Bread Griddle-Cakes. 

  1 1/2 cups  fine stale bread crumbs.  
 1 1/2 cups  scalded milk.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Add  milk  and  butter  to  crumbs,  and soak until  crumbs  are soft; add  eggs  well beaten, then  flour,   salt,  and  baking powder  mixed and sifted. Cook as other griddle-cakes.  

 
   Buckwheat Cakes. 

  1/3 cup  fine bread crumbs.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4  yeast cake.  
 1/2 cup  lukewarm water.  
  Buckwheat flour.  
 1 tablespoon  molasses.  
 
  Pour  milk  over  crumbs,  and soak thirty minutes; add  salt,   yeast cake  dissolved in  lukewarm water,  and  buckwheat  to make a batter thin enough to pour. Let rise over night; in the morning, stir well, add  molasses,  and cook as griddle-cakes. Save enough batter to raise another mixing, instead of using yeast cake; it will require one-half cup.  

   Waffles. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; add  milk  gradually,  yolks of eggs  well beaten,  butter,  and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff; cook on a greased hot  waffle iron.  Serve with  maple syrup.   A  waffle iron  should fit closely on range, be well heated on one side, turned, heated on other side, and thoroughly greased before iron is filled. In filling, put a tablespoonful of mixture in each compartment near centre of iron, 
 
 

cover, and mixture will spread to just fill iron. If sufficiently heated, it should be turned almost as soon as filled and covered. In using a new iron, special care must be taken in greasing, or waffles will stick.  

   Rice Waffles. 

  1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 2/3 cup  cold cooked rice.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in  rice  with tips of fingers; add  milk,   yolk of egg  well beaten,  butter,  and  white of egg  beaten stiff. Cook as Waffles.  

   Virginia Waffles. 

  1 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  white corn meal.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 3 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 1/4 tablespoons  baking powder.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 
  Cook meal in  boiling water  twenty minutes; add  milk,  dry ingredients mixed and sifted,  yolks of eggs  well beaten,  butter,  and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Cook as Waffles.  

   Raised Waffles. 

  1 3/4 cups  milk.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/4  yeast cake.  
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 2 cups  flour.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 
  Scald  milk;  add  salt  and  butter,  and when lukewarm, add  yeast cake  dissolved in  water,  and  flour.  Beat well; let rise over night; add  yolks of eggs  well beaten, and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Cook as Waffles.  By using a whole  yeast cake,  the mixture will rise in one and one-half hours.   

 

   Fried Drop Cakes. 

  1 1/3 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 teaspoon  melted butter.  
 
  Beat  egg  until light; add  milk,  dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and  melted butter.  Drop by spoonfuls in hot, new, deep  fat;  fry until light brown and cooked through, which must at first be determined by piercing with a  skewer,  or breaking apart. Remove with a  skimmer,  and drain on brown paper.  

   Rye Drop Cakes. 

  2/3 cup  rye meal.  
 2/3 cup  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; add  milk  gradually,  molasses,  and  egg  well beaten. Cook as Fried Drop Cakes.  

   Doughnuts I. 

  1 cup  sugar.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2  eggs.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/4 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
  Flour  to roll. 
 
  Cream the  butter,  and add one-half  sugar.  Beat  egg  until light, add remaining  sugar,  and combine mixtures. Add three and one-half cups  flour,  mixed and sifted with  baking powder,   salt,  and  spices;  then enough more  flour  to make dough stiff enough to roll. Toss one-third of mixture on floured board, knead slightly, pat, and roll out to one-fourth inch thickness. Shape with a  doughnut cutter,  fry in deep  fat,  take up on a  skewer,  and drain on brown paper. Add trimmings to one-half remaining mixture, roll, shape, and fry as before; repeat. Doughnuts should come quickly to top of  fat,  brown on 
 
 

one side, then be turned to brown on the other; avoid turning more than once. The  fat  must be kept at a uniform temperature. If too cold, doughnuts will absorb  fat;  if too hot, doughnuts will brown before sufficiently risen. See rule for testing  fat.   

   Doughnuts II. 

  4 cups  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1 3/4 teaspoons  soda.  
 1 3/4 teaspoons  cream tartar.  
 1/4 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Put  flour  in shallow pan; add  salt,   soda,   cream tartar,  and  spices.  Work in  butter  with tips of fingers; add  sugar,   egg  well beaten, and  sour milk.  Stir thoroughly, and toss on board thickly dredged with  flour;  knead slightly, using more  flour  if necessary. Pat and roll out to one-fourth inch thickness; shape, fry, and drain. Sour milk doughnuts may be turned as soon as they come to top of  fat,  and frequently afterwards.  

   Raised Doughnuts. 

  1 cup  milk.  
 1/4  yeast cake.  
 1/4 cup  lukewarm water.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 cup  butter  and  lard  mixed. 
 1 cup light  brown sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 grated  nutmeg.  
  Flour.  
 
  Scald and cool  milk;  when lukewarm, add  yeast cake  dissolved in  water,   salt,  and  flour  enough to make a stiff batter; let rise over night. In morning add  shortening  melted,  sugar,   eggs  well beaten,  nutmeg,  and enough  flour  to make a stiff dough; let rise again, and if too soft to handle, add more  flour.  Toss on floured board, pat, and roll to three-fourths inch thickness. Shape with cutter, and work between hands until round. Place on floured board, let rise one hour, turn, and let rise again; fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper. Cool, and roll in  powdered sugar.   

 

   Crullers. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 4 cups  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 cup  milk.  
  Powdered sugar  and  cinnamon.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  yolks of eggs  well beaten, and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Mix  flour,   nutmeg,  and  baking powder;  add alternately with  milk  to first mixture; toss on floured board, roll thin, and cut in pieces three inches long by two inches wide; make four one inch gashes at equal intervals. Take up by running finger in and out of gashes, and lower into deep  fat.  Fry same as Doughnuts I.  

   Strawberry Short Cake I. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, sift twice, work in  butter  with tips of fingers, and add  milk  gradually. Toss on floured board, divide in two parts. Pat, roll out, and bake twelve minutes in a hot oven in buttered Washington pie or round  layer cake tins.  Split and spread with  butter.  Sweeten  strawberries  to taste, place on back of range until warmed, crush slightly, and put between and on top of Short Cakes; cover top with  Cream Sauce I.  Allow from one to one and one-half boxes berries to each Short Cake.  

   Strawberry Short Cake II. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 
  Mix as Strawberry Short Cake I. Toss and roll on floured board. Put in round buttered tin, and shape with back of hand to fit pan.  

 

   Rich Strawberry Short Cake. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  nutmeg.  
 1  egg.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 1/4 tablespoons  lard.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
 
   Hotel Pastry Cook.   Mix dry ingredients and sift twice, work in  shortening  with tips of fingers, add  egg  well beaten, and  milk.  Bake as Strawberry Short Cake II. Split cake and spread under layer with  Cream Sauce II.  Cover with  strawberries  which have been sprinkled with  powdered sugar;  again spread with sauce, and cover with upper layer.  

   Fruit Short Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  egg  well beaten. Mix and sift  flour,   baking powder,  and  salt,  adding alternately with  milk  to first mixture. Beat thoroughly, and bake in a buttered round tin. Cool, spread thickly with sweetened  fruit,  and cover with  Cream Sauce I. or II.  Fresh  strawberries,   peaches,   apricots,   raspberries,  or  canned quince or pineapple  may be used. When canned goods are used, drain fruit from syrup and cut in pieces. Dilute  cream  for  Cream Sauce  with  fruit syrup  in place of milk.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER VI. 
 CEREALS. 
 CEREALS (cultivated grasses) rank first among vegetable foods; being of hardy growth and easy cultivation, they are more widely diffused over the globe than any of the flowering plants. They include wheat, oats, rye, barley, maize (Indian corn), and rice; some authorities place buckwheat among them. Wheat probably is the most largely consumed; next to wheat, comes rice. 
 
 TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION. 
 
  
 Proteid. 
 Fat. 
 Starch. 
 Mineral matter. 
 Water. 
 
 
 Oatmeal............... 
 15.6   
 7.3   
 68.0   
 1.9   
 7.2   
 
 
 Corn meal............. 
 8.9   
 2.2   
 75.1   
 0.9   
 12.9   
 
 
 Wheat flour (spring).. 
 11.8   
 1.1   
 75.0   
 0.5   
 11.6   
 
 
 Wheat flour (winter).. 
 10.4   
 1.0   
 75.6   
 0.5   
 12.5   
 
 
 Entire wheat flour.... 
 14.2   
 1.9   
 70.6   
 1.2   
 12.1   
 
 
 Graham flour.......... 
 13.7   
 2.2   
 70.3   
 2.0   
 11.8   
 
 
 Pearl barely.......... 
 9.3   
 1.0   
 77.6   
 1.3   
 10.8   
 
 
 Rye meal.............. 
 7.1   
 0.9   
 78.5   
 0.8   
 12.7   
 
 
 Rice.................. 
 7.8   
 0.4   
 79.4   
 0.4   
 12.4   
 
 
 Buckwheat flour....... 
 6.1   
 1.0   
 77.2   
 1.4   
 14.3   
 
 
 Macaroni.............. 
 11.7   
 1.6   
 72.9   
 3.0   
 10.8   
  
 Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C.   Macaroni, spaghetti,  and  vermicelli  are made from wheaten flour, rich in gluten, moistened to a stiff dough with water, and forced through small apertures in an iron plate by means of a  screw press.  Various Italian pastes are made from the same mixture. Macaroni is manufactured to 
 
 

some extent in this country, but the best comes from Italy, Lagana and Pejero, being the favorite brand. When macaroni is colored, it is done by the use of saffron, not by eggs, as is generally supposed. The only egg macaroni is manufactured in  s, and comes from Minneapolis.  Macaroni is valuable food, as it is very cheap and nutritious; but being deficient in fat, it should be combined with cream, butter, or cheese, to make a perfect food.  From cereals many preparations are made, used alone, or in combination with other food products. From rice is made rice flour; from oats, oatmeal, and oats steam-cooked and rolled,--as Rolled Avena, Quaker Rolled Oats, H-O, etc. There are many species of corn, the principal varieties being white, yellow, and red. From corn is made corn meal,--both white and yellow,--cornstarch, hominy, maizena, cerealine, samp, and hulled corn; from wheat, wheaten or white flour, Wheatena, Wheatlet, Wheat Grits, Pettijohns, etc. Rye is principally used for meal and flour; barley, for flour and pearl barley. Buckwheat, throughout the United States, is used only when made into flour for buckwheat cakes.  For family use, cereals should be bought in small quantities, and kept in glass jars, tightly covered. Many cereal preparations are on the market for making breakfast mushes, put up in one and two pound packages, with directions for cooking. In nearly all cases, time allowed for cooking is not sufficient, unless dish containing cereal is brought in direct contact with fire, which is not the best way. Mushes should be cooked over hot water after the first five minutes; if a  double boiler  is not procurable, improvise one. Boiling water and salt should always be added to cereals, allowing one teaspoon salt to each cup of cereal,--boiled to soften cellulose and swell starch grains, salted to give flavor. Indian meal and finely ground preparations should be mixed with cold water before adding boiling water, to prevent lumping.  
 
 

 
 TABLE FOR COOKING CEREALS. 
 
 Kind. 
 Quantity. 
 Water. 
 Time. 
 
 
 Steam-cooked and rolled oats, 
 } 
 1 cup. 
 1 3/4 cups. 
 30 minutes. 
 
 
 Rolled Avena, 
 } 
 
 
 Quaker Rolled Oats. 
 } 
 
 
 Steam-cooked and rolled wheats, 
 } 
 1 cup. 
 1 1/4 cups. 
 20 minutes. 
 
 
 H-O, Pettijohns, etc. 
 } 
 
 
 Rice (steamed)............ 
 1 cup. 
 2 3/4 - 3 1/4 cups (according to age of rice). 
 45-60 minutes. 
 
 
 Indian meal............... 
 1 cup. 
 3 1/2 cups. 
 3 hours. 
 
 
 Wheatlet, 
 } 
 1 cup. 
 3 3/4 cups. 
 30 minutes. 
 
 
 Wheatena, 
 } 
 
 
 Wheat Germ, 
 } 
 
 
 Germea, etc. 
 } 
 
 
 Oatmeal (coarse).......... 
 1 cup. 
 4 cups. 
 3 hours. 
 
 
 Hominy (fine)............. 
 1 cup. 
 4 cups. 
 1 hour. 
  
   Oatmeal Mush with Apples. 

Core  apples,  leaving large cavities; pare, and cook until soft in syrup made by boiling  sugar  and  water  together. Fill cavities with  oatmeal mush;  serve with  sugar  and  cream.  The syrup should be saved and re-used.  

   Cereal with Fruit. 

  3/4 cup  Wheat Germ.  
 3/4 cup  cold water.  
 2 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 lb.  dates,  stoned, and cut in pieces. 
 
  Mix  cereal,   salt,  and  cold water;  add to  boiling water  placed on front of range. Boil five minutes, steam in  double boiler  thirty minutes; stir in  dates,  and serve with  cream.  To serve for breakfast, or as a simple dessert.  

 

   Fried Mushes. 

 Mush  left over from breakfast may be packed in greased, one pound baking-powder box, and covered, which will prevent crust from forming. The next morning remove from box, slice thinly, dip in  flour,  and sauté. Serve with  maple syrup.   

   Fried Corn Meal Mush, or Fried Hominy. 

Pack  corn meal or hominy mush  in greased, one pound baking-powder boxes, or small bread pan, cool, and cover. Cut in thin slices, and sauté; cook slowly, if preferred crisp and dry. Where mushes are cooked to fry, use less  water  in steaming.  

   Boiled Rice. 

  1 cup  rice.  
 2 quarts  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 
   French Chef.   Pick over  rice;  add slowly to  boiling, salted water,  so as not to check boiling of  water.  Boil thirty minutes, or until soft, which may be determined by testing kernels. Old  rice  absorbs much more  water  than new  rice,  and takes longer for cooking. Drain in coarse strainer, and pour over one quart  hot water;  return to kettle in which it was cooked; cover, place on back of range, and let stand to dry off, when kernels are distinct. When stirring  rice,  always use a fork to avoid breaking kernels.  

   Steamed Rice. 

  1 cup  rice.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 3/4 to 3 1/4 cups  boiling water  (according to age of  rice ). 
 
  Put  salt  and  water  in top of  double boiler,  place on range, and add gradually well-washed  rice,  stirring with a fork to prevent adhering to  boiler.  Boil five minutes, 
 
 

cover, place over under part  double boiler,  and steam forty-five minutes, or until kernels are soft; uncover, that steam may escape. When  rice  is steamed for a simple dessert, use one-half quantity of  water  given in recipe, and steam until  rice  has absorbed  water;  then add  scalded milk  for remaining liquid.    To wash rice. 

Put  rice  in strainer, place strainer over bowl nearly full of  cold water;  rub  rice  between hands, lift strainer from bowl, and change  water.  Repeat process three or four times, until  water  is quite clear.   

   Rice with Cheese. 

Steam one cup  rice,  allowing one tablespoon  salt;  cover bottom of buttered  pudding-dish  with  rice,  dot over with three-fourths tablespoon  butter,  sprinkle with thin shavings  mild cheese  and a few grains  cayenne;  repeat until  rice  and one-fourth pound  cheese  are used. Add  milk  to half the depth of contents of dish, cover with  buttered cracker crumbs,  and bake until  cheese  melts.  

   Rice à la Riston. 

Finely chop two thin slices  bacon,  add to one-half raw medium sized  cabbage,  finely chopped; cover, and cook slowly thirty minutes. Add one-fourth cup  rice,  boiled, one-half teaspoon  chopped parsley,  and  salt  and  pepper  to taste. Moisten with one-half cup  White Stock,  and cook fifteen minutes.  

   Turkish Pilaf I. 

Wash and drain one-half cup  rice,  cook in one tablespoon  butter  until brown, add one cup  boiling water,  and steam until  water  is absorbed. Add one and three-fourths cups hot  stewed tomatoes,  cook until  rice  is tender, and season with  salt  and  pepper.   

 

   Turkish Pilaf II. 

  1/2 cup washed  rice.  
 3/4 cup  tomatoes, stewed and strained.  
 1 cup  Brown Stock,  highly seasoned. 
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Add  tomato  to stock, and heat to boiling point; add  rice,  and steam until  rice  is soft; stir in  butter  with a fork, and keep uncovered that steam may escape. Serve in place of a vegetable, or as border for curried or fricasseed meat.  

   Boiled Macaroni. 

  3/4 cup  macaroni,  broken in inch pieces. 
 2 quarts  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  cream.  
 
  Cook  macaroni  in  boiling salted water  twenty minutes or until soft, drain in strainer, pour over it  cold water  to prevent pieces from adhering; add  cream,  reheat, and season with  salt.   

   Macaroni with White Sauce. 

  3/4 cup  macaroni  broken in inch pieces. 
 2 quarts  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 1 1/2 cups  white sauce.  
 
  Cook as for Boiled Macaroni, and reheat in  white sauce.    White Sauce.  Melt two tablespoons  butter,  add two tablespoons  flour  with one-half teaspoon  salt,  and pour on slowly one and one-half cups  scalded milk.   

   Baked Macaroni. 

Put  macaroni  with  White Sauce  in buttered baking dish, cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Baked Macaroni with Cheese. 

Put a layer of  boiled macaroni  in buttered baking dish, sprinkle with  grated cheese;  repeat, pour over  White 
 
 

Sauce,  cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. 

Reheat  Boiled Macaroni  in one and one-half cups  Tomato Sauce I.,  sprinkle with  grated cheese,  and serve; or prepare as Baked Macaroni, using  Tomato  in place of White Sauce.  

   Macaroni à l'Italienne. 

  3/4 cup  macaroni.  
 2 quarts  boiling salted water.  
 1/2  onion.  
 2  cloves.  
 1 1/2 cups  Tomato Sauce II.  
 1/2 cup  grated cheese.  
 2 tablespoons  wine.  
 1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Cook  macaroni  in  boiling salted water,  with  butter,  and  onion  stuck with  cloves;  drain, remove  onion,  reheat in  tomato sauce,  add  cheese  and  wine.   

   Macaroni à la Milanaise. 

Cook  macaroni  as for Macaroni à l'Italienne, reheat in  Tomato Sauce II.,  add six sliced  mushrooms,  two slices  cooked smoked beef tongue  cut in  s, and one-half cup  grated cheese.   

   Spaghetti. 

 Spaghetti  may be cooked in any way in which  macaroni  is cooked, but is usually served with  tomato sauce.   It is cooked in long  s rather than broken in pieces; to accomplish this, hold quantity to be cooked in the hand, and dip ends in  boiling salted water;  as  spaghetti  softens it will bend, and may be coiled under  water.   

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER VII. 
 EGGS. 
 
 COMPOSITION. 
  Proteid, 14.9% 
 Fat, 10.6% 
 Mineral matter, 1% 
 Water, 73.5% 
 
 EGGS, like milk, form a typical food, inasmuch as they contain all the elements, in the right proportion, necessary for support of the body. Their highly concentrated, nutritive value renders it necessary to use them in combination with other foods, rich in starch (bread, potatoes, etc.). In order that the stomach may have enough to act upon, a certain amount of bulk must be furnished.  A pound of eggs (nine) is equivalent in nutritive value to a pound of beef. From this it may be seen that eggs, at even twenty-five cents per dozen, should not be freely used by the strict economist. Eggs being rich in proteid, serve as a valuable substitute for meat. In most families, their use in the making of cake, custard, puddings, etc., renders them almost indispensable. It is surprising how many intelligent women, who look well to the affairs of the kitchen, are satisfied to use what are termed "cooking eggs;" this shows pour judgement from an economical standpoint. Strictly fresh eggs should always be used if obtainable. An egg after the first twenty-four hours steadily deteriorates. If exposed to air, owing to the porous structure of the shell, there is an evaporation of water, air rushes in, and decomposition takes place.  White of egg contains albumen in its purest form. Albumen coagulates at a temperature of from 134° to 160° F. Herein lies the importance of cooking eggs at a low temperature, thus rendering them easy of digestion. Eggs 
 
 

cooked in boiling water are tough and horny, difficult of digestion, and should never be served.  When eggs come from the market, they should be washed, and put away in a cold place. 
  
 Ways of Determining Freshness of Eggs. 
I. Hold in front of candle flame in dark room, and the centre should look clear.  II. Place in basin of cold water, and they should sink.  III. Place large end to the cheek, and a warmth should be felt.  
  
 Ways of Keeping Eggs. 
I. Pack in sawdust, small end down.  II. Keep in lime water.  III. From July to September a large number of eggs are packed, small ends down, in cases having compartments, one for each egg, and kept in cold storage. Eggs are often kept in cold storage six months, and then sold as cooking eggs.  
   Boiled Eggs. 

Have ready a saucepan containing  boiling water.  Carefully put in with a spoon the number of  eggs  desired, covering them with  water.  Remove saucepan to back of range, where  water  will not boil. Cook from six to eight minutes if liked "soft boiled," forty to forty-five if liked "hard boiled."  Eggs  may be cooked by placing in  cold water  and allowing  water  to heat gradually until the boiling point is reached, when they will be "soft boiled." In using hard-boiled eggs for making other dishes, when taken from the  hot water  they should be plunged into  cold water  to prevent, if possible, discoloration of yolks.   Eggs  perfectly cooked should be placed and kept in  water  at a uniform temperature of 175° F.  

   Dropped Eggs (Poached). 

Have ready a shallow pan two-thirds full of  boiling salted water,  allowing one-half tablespoon  salt  to 
 
 

one quart of  water.  Put two or three buttered  muffin rings  in the  water.  Break each  egg  separately into a cup, and carefully slip into a  muffin ring.  The  water  should cover the  eggs.  When there is a film over the top, and the white is firm, carefully remove with a buttered  skimmer  to circular pieces of  buttered toast,  and let each person season his own  egg  with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   If cooked for an invalid, garnish with four  toast-points  and a bit of  parsley.   An  egg-poacher  may be used instead of  muffin rings.   

   Eggs à la Finnoise. 

 Dropped Eggs,  served with  Tomato Sauce I.   

   Eggs à la Suisse. 

  4  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  cream.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
  Cayenne.  
 2 tablespoons  grated cheese.  
 
  Heat a small  omelet pan,  put in  butter,  and when melted, add  cream.  Slip in the  eggs  one at a time, sprinkle with  salt,   pepper,  and a few grains of  cayenne.  When whites are nearly firm, sprinkle with  cheese.  Finish cooking, and serve on  buttered toast.  Strain  cream  over the toast.  

   Baked or Shirred Eggs. 

Butter an  egg-shirrer.  Cover bottom and sides with fine  cracker crumbs.  Break an  egg  into a cup, and carefully slip into  shirrer.  Cover with  seasoned buttered crumbs,  and bake in moderate oven until white is firm and  crumbs  brown. The  shirrers  should be placed on a tin plate, that they may be easily removed from the oven.    Eggs may be baked in small tomatoes. 

Cut a slice from stem end of  tomato,  scoop out the pulp, slip in an  egg,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake.   

 

   Scrambled Eggs. 

  5  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly with silver fork; add  salt,   pepper,  and  milk.  Heat  omelet pan,  put in  butter,  and when melted, turn in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of the pan.  

   Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce. 

  6  eggs.  
 1 3/4 cups  tomatoes.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Simmer  tomatoes  and  sugar  five minutes; fry  butter  and  onion  three minutes; remove  onion,  and add  tomatoes,   seasonings,  and  eggs  slightly beaten. Cook as Scrambled Eggs. Serve with  entire wheat bread or brown bread toast.   

   Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast. 

Spread thin slices of  buttered toast  with  Anchovy Paste.  Arrange on platter, and cover with  scrambled eggs.   

   Eggs à la Buckingham. 

Make five slices  milk toast,  and arrange on platter. Use recipe for Scrambled Eggs, having the  eggs  slightly under done. Pour  eggs  over toast, sprinkle with four tablespoons  grated mild cheese.  Put in oven to melt  cheese,  and finish cooking  eggs.   

   Buttered Eggs. 

Heat  omelet pan.  Put in one tablespoon  butter;  when melted, slip in an  egg,  and cook until the white is firm. Turn it over once while cooking. Add more  butter  as needed, using just enough to keep  egg  from sticking.  

 

   Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes. 

Cut  tomatoes  in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  butter.  Serve a  buttered egg  on each slice of  tomato.   

   Fried Eggs. 

Fried  eggs  are cooked as Buttered Eggs, without being turned. In this case the  fat  is taken by spoonfuls and poured over the  eggs.   Lard, pork, ham, or bacon fat,  are usually employed,--a considerable amount being used.  

   Eggs à la Goldenrod. 

  3  hard boiled eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 5 slices  toast.  
  Parsley.  
 
  Make a thin white sauce with  butter,   flour,   milk,  and  seasonings.  Separate  yolks  from  whites of eggs.  Chop  whites  finely, and add them to the  sauce.  Cut four slices of toast in halves lengthwise. Arrange on platter, and pour over the sauce. Force the  yolks  through a  potato ricer  or strainer, sprinkling over the top. Garnish with  parsley  and remaining toast, cut in points.  

   Eggs au Gratin. 

Arrange  Dropped Eggs  on a shallow buttered dish. Sprinkle with grated  Parmesan cheese.  Pour over  eggs  one pint  Yellow Béchamel Sauce.  Cover with  stale bread crumbs,  and sprinkle with  grated cheese.  Brown in oven.  Tomato or White Sauce  may be used.  

   Eggs in Batter. 

  1  egg.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  thick cream.  
 2 tablespoons  fine stale bread crumbs.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix  cream,   bread crumbs,  and  salt.  Put one-half tablespoon of mixture in  egg-shirrer.  Slip in  egg,  and 
 
 

cover with remaining mixture. Bake six minutes in moderate oven.  

   Curried Eggs. 

  3  hard boiled eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  curry powder.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1 cup  hot milk.  
 
  Melt  butter,  add  flour  and seasonings, and gradually  hot milk.  Cut  eggs  in eighths lengthwise, and re-heat in  sauce.   

   Scalloped Eggs. 

  6  hard boiled eggs.  
 1 pint  White Sauce I.  
 3/4 cup chopped  cold meat.  
 3/4 cup  buttered cracker crumbs.  
 
  Chop  eggs  finely. Sprinkle bottom of a buttered baking dish with  crumbs,  cover with one-half the  eggs,   eggs  with  sauce,  and  sauce  with  meat;  repeat. Cover with remaining  crumbs.  Place in oven on centre grate, and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  Ham  is the best meat to use for this dish.  Chicken,   veal,  or  fish  may be used.  

   Stuffed Eggs in a Nest. 

Cut  hard boiled eggs  in halves, lengthwise. Remove  yolks,  and put  whites  aside in pairs. Mash  yolks,  and add half the amount of  devilled ham  and enough  melted butter  to make of consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original  yolks,  and refill  whites.  Form remainder of mixture into a nest. Arrange  eggs  in the nest, and pour over one cup  White Sauce I.  Sprinkle with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Egg Farci. 

Cut  hard boiled eggs  in halves, crosswise. Remove  yolks,  and put  whites  aside in pairs. Mash  yolks,  and add equal amount of  cold cooked chicken or veal,  finely chopped. Moisten with  melted butter  or  Mayonnaise. 
 
 

Season to taste with  salt,   pepper,   lemon juice,   mustard,  and  cayenne.  Shape, and refill  whites.   

 
 Omelets. 
 For omelets select large eggs, allowing one egg for each person, and one tablespoon liquid for each egg. Keep an  omelet pan  especially for omelets, and see that it is kept clean and smooth. A frying-pan may be used in place of  omelet pan.  
   Plain Omelet. 

  4  eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 4 tablespoons  hot water.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  Thin White Sauce.  
 
  Separate  yolks  from  whites.  Beat  yolks  until thick and lemon colored; add  salt,   pepper,  and  hot water.  Beat  whites  until stiff and dry, cutting and folding them into first mixture until they have taken up mixture. Heat  omelet pan,  and  butter  sides and bottom. Turn in mixture, spread evenly, place on range where it will cook slowly, occasionally turning the pan that omelet may brown evenly. When well "puffed" and delicately browned underneath, place pan on centre grate of oven to finish cooking the top. The omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when pressed by the finger. If it clings to the finger like the beaten white of egg, it needs longer cooking. Fold and turn on hot platter, and pour around one and one-half cups  Thin White Sauce.     Milk  is sometimes used in place of  hot water,  but  hot water  makes a more tender omelet.   

 
 To Fold and Turn an Omelet. 
 Hold  omelet pan  by handle with the left hand. With a  case knife  make two one-half inch incisions opposite each other at right angles to handle. Place knife under the part of omelet nearest handle, tip pan to nearly a vertical position; by carefully coaxing the omelet with knife, it will fold and turn without breaking.  
 
 

   Omelet with Meat or Vegetables. 

Mix and cook  Plain Omelet.  Fold in remnants of  finely chopped cooked chicken, veal, or ham.  Remnants of  fish  may be flaked and added to  White Sauce;  or cooked  peas,   asparagus,  or  cauliflower  may be added.  

   Oyster Omelet. 

Mix and cook  Plain Omelet.  Fold in one pint  oysters,  parboiled, drained from their liquor, and cut in halves. Turn on platter, and pour around  Thin White Sauce.   

   Orange Omelet. 

  3  eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  powdered sugar.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 2  oranges.  
 1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  orange juice.  
 
  Follow directions for Plain Omelet. Remove skin from  oranges  and cut in slices, lengthwise. Fold in one-third of the slices of  orange,  well sprinkled with  powdered sugar;  put remaining slices around omelet, and sprinkle with  sugar.   

   Jelly Omelet. 

Mix and cook  Plain Omelet,  omitting pepper and one-half the  salt,  and adding one tablespoon  sugar.  Spread before folding with jam,  jelly,  or  marmalade.  Fold, turn, and sprinkle with  sugar.   

   Bread Omelet. 

  4  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/2 cup  stale bread crumbs.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Soak  bread crumbs  fifteen minutes in  milk,  add beaten  yolks  and seasonings, fold in  whites.  Cook and serve as Plain Omelet.  

 

   French Omelet. 

  4  eggs.  
 4 tablespoons  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, just enough to blend  yolks  and  whites,  add the  milk  and seasonings. Put  butter  in hot  omelet pan;  when melted, turn in the mixture; as it cooks, prick and pick up with a fork until the whole is of creamy consistency. Place on hotter part of range that it may brown quickly underneath. Fold and turn on hot platter.  

   Spanish Omelet. 

Mix and cook a French Omelet. Serve with  Tomato Sauce  in the centre and around omelet.  

   Tomato Sauce. 

Cook two tablespoons of  butter  with one tablespoon of finely chopped  onion,  until yellow. Add one and three-fourths cups  tomatoes,  and cook until moisture has nearly evaporated. Add one tablespoon sliced  mushroom,  one-fourth teaspoon  salt,  and few grains  cayenne.  This is improved by a small piece of  red or green pepper,  finely chopped, cooked with  butter  and  onion.   

   Rich Omelet. 

  2 1/4 tablespoons  flour.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3  eggs.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 
   Mrs. E. A. Dwinell.   Mix  salt  and  flour,  add gradually  milk.  Beat  eggs  until thick and lemon colored, then add to first mixture. Heat frying-pan and put in two-thirds of the  butter;  when  butter  is melted, pour in mixture. As it cooks, lift with a  griddle-cake turner  so that uncooked part may run underneath; add remaining  butter  as needed, and continue lifting the cooked part until it is firm throughout. Place on hotter part of range to brown; roll, and turn on hot platter.  

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER VIII. 
 SOUPS. 
 IT cannot be denied that the French excel all nations in the excellence of their cuisine, and to their soups and sauces belong the greatest praise. It would be well to follow their example, and it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making. How many a hearty dinner be better begun than with a thin soup? The hot liquid, taken into an empty stomach, is easily assimilated, acts as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient (as is the popular opinion), and prepares the way for the meal which is to follow. The cream soups and purées are so nutritious that, with bread and butter, they furnish a satisfactory meal.   Soups are divided into two great classes: Soups with stock; soups without stock.  Soups with stock have, for their basis, beef, veal, mutton, fish, poultry, or game, separately or in combination. They are classified as:-- 
   Bouillon,   made from lean beef, delicately seasoned, and usually cleared. Exception,--clam bouillon.  
  Brown Soup Stock,   made from beef (two-thirds lean meat, and remainder bone and fat), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs.  
  White Soup Stock,   made from chicken or veal, with delicate seasonings.  
  Consommé,   usually made from two or three kinds of meat (beef, veal, and fowl being employed), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. Always served clear.  
  Lamb Stock,   delicately seasoned, is served as mutton broth.  
 
 
 

 Soups without stock are classified as:-- 
   Cream Soups,   made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small amount of cream and seasonings. Always thickened.  
  Purées,   made from vegetables or fish, forced through a strainer, and retained in soup, milk, and seasonings. Generally thicker than cream soup. Sometimes white stock is added.  
  Bisques,   generally made from shell fish, milk, and seasonings, and served with fish dice; made similarly to purées. They may be made of meat, game, or vegetables, with small dice of the same.  
 
 Various names have been given to soups, according to their flavorings, chief ingredients, the people who use them, etc. To the Scotch belongs Scotch Broth; to the French, Pot-au-feu; to the Indo, Mulligatawny; and to the Spanish, Olla Podrida. 
 
 SOUP MAKING. 
 The art of soup making is more easily mastered than at first appears. The young housekeeper is startled at the amazingly large number of ingredients the recipe calls for, and often is discouraged. One may, with but little expense, keep at hand what is essential for the making of a good soup. Winter vegetables--turnips, carrots, celery, and onions--may be bought in large or small quantities. The outer stalks of celery, often not suitable for serving, should be saved for soups. At seasons when celery is a luxury, the tips and roots should be saved and dried. Sweet herbs, including thyme, savory, and marjoram, are dried and put up in packages, retailing from five to ten cents. Bay leaves, which should be used sparingly, may be obtained at first class grocers' or druggists'; seeming never to lose strength, they may be kept indefinitely. Spices, including whole cloves, allspice berries, peppercorns, and stick cinnamon, should be kept on hand. These seasonings, with the addition 
 
 

of salt, pepper, and parsley, are the essential flavorings for stock soups. Flour, corn-starch, arrowroot, fine tapioca, sago, pearl barley, rice, bread or eggs are added to give consistency and nourishment.  In small families, where there are few left-overs, fresh meat must be bought for the making of soup stock, as a good soup cannot be made from a small amount of poor material. On the other hand, large families need seldom buy fresh meat, providing all left-overs are properly cared for. The  soup kettle  should receive small pieces of beef (roasted, broiled, or stewed), veal, carcasses of fowl or chicken, chop bones, bones left from lamb roast, and all trimmings and bones, which a careful housewife should see are sent from the market with her order. Avoid the use of smoked or corned meats, or large pieces of raw mutton or lamb, surrounded by fat, on account of the strong flavor so disagreeable to many. A small piece of bacon or lean ham is sometimes cooked with vegetables for flavor.  Beef ranks first as regards utility and economy in soup making. It should be cut from the fore or hind shin (which cuts contain marrow-bone), the middle cuts being most desirable. If the lower part of shin is used, the soup, although rich in gelatin, lacks flavor, unless a cheap piece of lean meat is used with it, which frequently is done. It must be remembered that meat, bone, and fat in the right proportions are all necessary; allow two-thirds lean meat, the remaining one-third bone and fat. From the meat the soluble juices, salts, extractives (which give color and flavor), and a small quantity of gelatin are extracted; from the bone, gelatin (which gives the stock when cold a jelly-like consistency) and mineral matter. Gelatin is also obtained from cartilage, skin, tendons, and ligaments. Some of the fat is absorbed, the remainder rises to the top and should be removed.  Soup-stock making is rendered easier by use of proper utensils. Sharp meat knives, hard-wood board, two  purée strainers  having meshes of different size, and a  soup 
 
 

digester  (a porcelain-lined iron pot, having tight-fitting cover, with valve in the top), or covered granite kettle, are essentials. An iron kettle, which formerly constituted one of the furnishings of a range, may be used if perfectly smooth. A saw,  cleaver,  and scales, although not necessary, are useful, and lighten labor.  When meat comes from market, remove from paper and put in cool place. When ready to start stock, if scales are at hand, weigh meat and bone to see if correct proportions have been sent. Wipe meat with clean  cheese cloth,  wrung out of cold water. Cut lean meat in one-inch cubes; by so doing, a large amount of surface is exposed to the water, and juices are more easily drawn out. Heat frying-pan hissing hot; remove marrow from marrow-bone, and use enough to brown one-third of the lean meat, s tirring constantly, that all parts of surface may be seared, thus preventing escape of juices,--sacrificing a certain amount of goodness in the stock, to give additional color and flavor, which is obtained by caramelization. Put fat, bone, and remaining lean meat in  soup kettle;  cover with cold water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat, bone, and fat. Let stand one hour, that cold water may draw out juices from meat. Add browned meat, taking water from  soup kettle  to rinse out frying-pan, that none of the coloring may be lost. Heat gradually to boiling point, and cook six or seven hours at low temperature. A scum will rise on the top, which contains coagulated albuminous juices; these give to soup its chief nutritive value; many, however, prefer a clear soup, and have them removed. If allowed to remain, when straining, a large part will pass through strainer. Vegetables, spices, and salt should be added the last hour of cooking. Strain and cool quickly; by so doing stock is less apt to ferment. A knuckle of veal is often used for making white soup stock. Fowl should be used for stock in preference to chicken, as it is cheaper, and contains a larger amount of nutriment. A cake of fat forms on stock when cold, which excludes air, and should 
 
 

not be removed until stock is used. To remove fat, run a knife around edge of bowl and carefully remove the same. A small quantity will remain, which should be removed by passing a cloth wrung out of hot water around edge and over top of stock. This fat should be clarified and used for drippings. If time cannot be allowed for stock to cool before using, take off as much fat as possible with a spoon, and remove the remainder by passing tissue or any absorbent paper over the surface.  
   How to Clear Soup Stock. 

 Whites of eggs  slightly beaten, or  raw, lean beef  finely chopped, are employed for clearing soup stock. The albumen found in each effects the clearing by drawing to itself some of the  juices  which have been extracted from the  meat,  and by action of heat have been coagulated. Some rise to the top and form a scum, others are precipitated.  Remove  fat  from  stock,  and put quantity to be cleared in  stew-pan,  allowing  white and shell of one egg  to each quart of stock. Beat  egg  slightly, break shell in small pieces and add to stock. Place on front of range, and stir constantly until boiling point is reached; boil two minutes. Set back where it may simmer twenty minutes; remove scum, and strain through double thickness of  cheese cloth  placed over a fine strainer. If stock to be cleared is not sufficiently seasoned, additional  seasoning  must be added as soon as stock has lost its jelly-like consistency; not after clearing is effected. Many think the flavor obtained from a few shavings of  lemon rind  an agreeable addition.  

   How to Bind Soups. 

Cream soups and purées, if allowed to stand, separate, unless bound together. To bind a soup, melt  butter,  and when bubbling add an equal quantity of  flour;  when well mixed add to boiling soup, stirring constantly. If recipe 
 
 

calls for more  flour  than  butter,  or soup is one that should be made in  double boiler,  add gradually a portion of hot mixture to  butter  and  flour  until of such consistency that it may be poured into the mixture remaining in  double boiler.   

 
 SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCK. 
   Brown Soup Stock. 

  6 lbs.  shin of beef.  
 3 quarts  cold water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 6  cloves.  
 1/2  bay leaf.  
 3 sprigs  thyme.  
 1 sprig  marjoram.  
 2 sprigs  parsley  
  Carrot,   ) 
  Turnip,   )1/2 cup each 
  Onion,    )cut in dice 
  Celery.   ) 
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 
  Wipe  beef,  and cut the lean meat in inch cubes. Brown one-third of meat in hot frying-pan in  marrow from a marrow-bone.  Put remaining two-thirds with  bone  and  fat  in  soup kettle,  add  water,  and let stand for thirty minutes. Place on back of range, add browned meat, and heat gradually to boiling point. As scum rises it should be removed. Cover and cook slowly six hours, keeping below boiling point during cooking. Add vegetables and seasonings, cook one and one-half hours, strain, and cool as quickly as possible.  

   Bouillon. 

  5 lbs.  lean beef from middle of round.  
 2 lbs.  marrow-bone.  
 3 quarts  cold water.  
 1 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
  Carrot,  ) 
  Turnip,  )1/3 cup each, 
  Onion,   ) cut in dice. 
  Celery.  ) 
 
  Wipe, and cut meat in inch cubes. Put two-thirds of meat in  soup kettle,  and soak in  water  thirty minutes. Brown remainder in hot frying-pan with  marrow from marrow-bone.  Put browned meat and  bone  in kettle. 
 
 

Heat to boiling point; skim thoroughly, and cook at temperature below boiling point five hours. Add seasonings and vegetables, cook one hour, strain and cool. Remove  fat  and clear. Serve in  bouillon cups.   

   Macaroni Soup. 

  1 quart  Brown Soup Stock.  
 1/4 cup  macaroni,  broken in half inch pieces. 
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Cook  macaroni  in  boiling salted water  until soft. Drain, and add to stock, heated to boiling point. Season with  salt  and  pepper.    Spaghetti or other Italian pastes  may be substituted for macaroni.   

   Julienne Soup. 

To one quart clear  Brown Soup Stock,  add one-fourth cup each  carrot  and  turnip,  cut in thin  s one and one-half inches long, previously cooked in  boiling salted water,  and two tablespoons each cooked  peas  and  string beans.  Heat to boiling point.  

   Tomato Soup with Stock. 

  1 quart  Brown Soup Stock.  
 1 can  tomatoes.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1 small  bay leaf.  
 3  cloves.  
 3 springs  thyme.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
  Onion,    ) 
  Carrot,   )1/4 cup each, 
  Celery,   )cut in dice. 
  Raw ham.  ) 
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Cook  onion,   carrot,   celery,  and  ham  in  butter  five minutes, add  flour,   peppercorns,   bay leaf,   cloves,  and  thyme,  and cook three minutes; then add  tomatoes,  cover, and cook slowly one hour. When cooked in oven it requires less watching. Rub through a strainer, add hot stock, and season with  salt  and  pepper.   

 

   Turkish Soup. 

  5 cups  Brown Soup Stock.  
 1/4 cup  rice.  
 1 1/2 cups  stewed and strained tomatoes.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 2 slices  onion.  
 10  peppercorns.  
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Cook  rice  in Brown Stock until soft. Cook  bay leaf,   onion,   peppercorns,  and  celery salt  with  tomatoes  thirty minutes. Combine mixtures, rub through sieve, and bind with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Season with  salt  and  pepper  if needed.  

   Crecy Soup. 

  3 pints  Brown Soup Stock.  
 2 cups chopped  carrots.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 4 tablespoons  flour.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Wash and scrape  carrots;  cut off the darker part, and chop fine or force through  meat-chopper.  Cook with one-half the  butter  fifteen minutes. Add stock and  mace,  and cook slowly forty-five minutes. Strain, and rub  carrots  through sieve. Melt remaining  butter,  add  flour,  and pour on gradually hot stock.  If a more delicate soup is desired, substitute  White Stock  and  cream  for Brown Stock, using one quart stock and one cup  cream  or  milk.    

   Ox-Tail Soup. 

  1 small  oxtail.  
 6 cups  Brown Stock.  
  Carrot,  }1 cup each, cut in 
  Turnip.  } fancy shapes. 
  Onion,   } 1 cup each, cut in 
  Celery.  } fancy shapes. 
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/4 cup  Madeira wine.  
 1 teaspoon  Worcestershire Sauce.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Cut  ox-tail  in small pieces, wash, drain, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and fry in  butter  ten minutes. Add to Brown Stock, and simmer one hour. Then add vegetables, which have been parboiled twenty 
 
 

minutes; simmer until vegetables are soft, add  salt,   cayenne,   wine,   Worcestershire Sauce,  and  lemon juice.   

   White Soup Stock I. 

  3 lbs.  knuckle of veal.  
 1 lb.  lean beef.  
 3 quarts  boiling water.  
 1  onion.  
 6 slices  carrot.  
 1 large stalk  celery.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1/2  bay leaf.  
 2 sprigs  thyme.  
 2  cloves.  
 
   French Chef.   Wipe  veal,  remove from bone, and cut in small pieces; cut  beef  in pieces, put  bone  and meat in  soup kettle,  cover with  cold water,  and bring quickly to boiling point; drain, throw away the  water.  Wash thoroughly  bones  and meat in  cold water;  return to kettle, add vegetables, seasonings, and three quarts  boiling water.  Boil three or four hours; the stock should be reduced one-half.  

   White Soup Stock II. 

  4 lbs.  knuckle of veal.  
 2 quarts  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1  onion.  
 2 stalks  celery.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 
  Wipe meat, remove from  bone,  and cut in small pieces. Put meat,  bone,   water,  and seasonings in kettle. Heat gradually to boiling point, skimming frequently. Simmer four or five hours, and strain. If scum has been carefully removed, and soup is strained through double thickness of  cheese cloth,  stock will be quite clear.  

   White Soup Stock III. 

The  water in which a fowl or chicken is cooked  makes White Stock.  

   White Soup. 

  5 cups  White Stock III.  
 1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1 stalk  celery.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 4 tablespoons  flour.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 
  
 
 

 Add seasonings to stock, and simmer thirty minutes; strain, and thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together; add  scalded milk.  Dilute  eggs,  slightly beaten, with hot soup, and add to remaining soup; strain, add  salt  and  pepper  if needed.  

   Chicken Soup. 

  6 cups  White Stock III.  
 1 tablespoon  lean raw ham,  finely chopped. 
 6 slices  carrot,  cut in cubes. 
 2 stalks  celery.  
 1/2  bay leaf.  
 1/4 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1 sliced  onion.  
 1/3 cup  hot boiled rice.  
 
  Add seasonings to stock, heat gradually to boiling point, and boil thirty minutes; strain, and add  rice.   

   Turkey Soup. 

Break  turkey carcass  in pieces, removing all stuffing; put in kettle with any bits of meat that may have been left over. Cover with  cold water,  bring slowly to boiling point, and simmer two hours. Strain, remove  fat,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  One or two outer stalks of  celery  may be cooked with carcass to give additional flavor.  

   Hygienic Soup. 

  6 cups  White Stock III.  
 1/4 cup  oatmeal.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Heat stock to boiling point, add  oatmeal,  and boil one hour; rub through sieve, add  milk,  and thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Farina Soup. 

  4 cups  White Stock III.  
 1/4 cup  farina.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1 cup  cream.  
 Few gratings of  nutmeg.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Heat stock to boiling point, add  farina,  and boil fifteen minutes; then add  milk,   cream,  and seasonings.  

 

   Spring Soup. 

  1 quart  White Stock I. or II.  
 1 large  onion,  sliced thin. 
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4  baker's small stale loaf.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  cream.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cook  onion  fifteen minutes in one tablespoon  butter;  add to stock, with  bread  broken in pieces. Simmer one hour; rub through sieve. Add  milk,  and bind with remaining  butter  and  flour  cooked together; add  cream,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve with small pieces  toasted bread.   

   Duchess Soup. 

  4 cups  White Stock III.  
 2 slices  carrot,  cut in cubes. 
 2 slices  onion.  
 2 blades  mace.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/2 cup  grated mild cheese.  
 
  Cook vegetables three minutes in one and one-half tablespoons  butter,  then add stock and  mace;  boil fifteen minutes, strain, and add  milk.  Thicken with remaining  butter  and  flour  cooked together; add  salt  and  pepper.  Stir in  cheese,  and serve as soon as  cheese  is melted.  

   Potage à la Reine. 

  4 cups  White Stock III.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1 stalk  celery.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
  Yolks 3 hard boiled eggs.  
 1/3 cup  cracker crumbs.  
  Breast meat from a boiled chicken.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/2 cup  cold milk.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Cook stock with seasonings twenty minutes. Rub  yolks of eggs  through sieve. Soak  cracker crumbs  in  cold milk  until soft; add to  eggs.  Chop meat and rub through sieve; add to  egg  and  cracker  mixture. Then pour  milk  on slowly, and add to strained stock; boil three minutes. Bind with  butter  and  flour  cooked together.  

 

   St. Germain Soup. 

  3 cups  White Stock I., II., or III.  
 1 can  Marrowfat peas.  
 1 cup  cold water.  
 1/2  onion.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 teaspoon  pepper.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 
  Drain and rinse  peas,  reserving one-third cup; put remainder in  cold water  with seasonings, and simmer one-half hour; rub through sieve and add stock. Bind with  butter  and  corn-starch  cooked together; boil five minutes. Add  milk  and reserved  peas.   

   Imperial Soup. 

  4 cups  White Stock III.  
 2 cups  stale bread crumbs.  
 2 stalks  celery,  broken in pieces. 
 2 slices  carrot,  cut in cubes. 
 1 small  onion.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 2  cloves.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 breast  boiled chicken.  
 1/3 cup  blanched almonds.  
 1 cup  cream.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Cook  celery,   carrot,  and  onion  in one tablespoon  butter,  five minutes; tie in  cheese cloth  with  parsley,   cloves,   peppercorns,   bay leaf,  and  mace;  add to stock with  salt  and  bread crumbs,  simmer one hour, remove seasonings, and rub through a sieve. Chop  chicken meat  and rub through sieve; pound  almonds  to a paste, add to  chicken,  then add  cream.  Combine mixtures, add  milk,  reheat, and bind with remaining  butter  and  flour  cooked together.  

   Veal and Sago Soup. 

  2 1/2 lbs.  lean veal.  
 3 quarts  cold water.  
 1/4 lb.  pearl sago.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
  Yolks 4 eggs.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Order meat from market, very finely chopped. Pick over, and remove particles of  fat.  Cover meat with 
 
 

 water,  bring slowly to boiling point, and simmer two hours, skimming occasionally; strain and reheat. Soak  sago  one-half hour in enough  water  to cover, stir into hot stock, boil thirty minutes, and add  milk;  then pour mixture slowly on  yolks of eggs,  slightly beaten. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Asparagus Soup. 

  3 cups  White Stock II. or III.  
 1 can  asparagus.  
 2 cups  cold water.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Drain and rinse  asparagus,  reserve tips, and add stalks to  cold water;  boil five minutes, drain, add stock, and  onion;  boil thirty minutes, rub through sieve, and bind with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Add  salt,   pepper,   milk,  and tips.  

   Cream of Celery Soup. 

  2 cups  White Stock II. or III.  
 3 cups  celery,  cut in inch pieces. 
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 1 slice  onion.   
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 1 cup  cream.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Parboil  celery  in  water  ten minutes; drain, add stock, cook until  celery  is soft, and rub through sieve. Scald  onion  in  milk,  remove  onion,  add  milk  to stock, bind, add  cream,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Spinach Soup. 

  4 cups  White Stock II. or III.  
 2 quarts  spinach.  
 3 cups  boiling water.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Cook  spinach  thirty minutes in  boiling water;  drain, chop, and rub through sieve; add stock, heat to boiling point, bind, add  milk,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.   

 

   Cream of Lettuce Soup. 

  2 1/2 cups  White Stock II. or III.  
 2 heads  lettuce  finely cut. 
 2 tablespoons  rice.  
 1/2 cup  cream.  
 1/4 tablespoon  onion,  finely chopped. 
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 Few grains  nutmeg.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Cook  onion  five minutes in  butter,  add  lettuce,   rice,  and stock. Cook until  rice  is soft, then add  cream,   yolk of egg  slightly beaten,  nutmeg,   salt,  and  pepper.  Remove outer leaves from  lettuce,  using only tender part for soup.  

   Cream of Watercress Soup. 

  2 cups  White Stock I., II.,or III.  
 2 bunches  watercress.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Cut finely leaves of watercress; cook five minutes in two tablespoons  butter,  add stock, and boil five minutes. Thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together, add  salt  and  pepper.  Just before serving, add  milk  and  egg yolk,  slightly beaten. Serve with slices of  French bread,  browned in oven.  

   Cream of Cauliflower Soup. 

  4 cups  hot White Stock II. or III.  
 1  cauliflower.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1 stalk  celery,  cut in inch pieces. 
 1/2  bay leaf.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2 cups  milk.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Soak  cauliflower,  head down, one hour in  cold water  to cover; cook in  boiling salted water  twenty minutes. Reserve one-half flowerets, and rub remaining  cauliflower  through sieve. Cook  onion,   celery,  and  bay leaf  in  butter  five minutes. Remove  bay leaf,  then add  flour,  and stir into hot stock; add  cauliflower  and  milk.  Season with  salt  and  pepper;  then strain, add flowerets, and reheat.  

 

   String Bean Soup. 

  4 cups  White Stock I., II., or III.  
 2 quarts  string beans.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cook  beans  until soft in  boiling salted water  to cover; drain, and rub through sieve. Add pulp to  White Stock,  then  milk;  bind, and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Garnish with  Fritter Beans.   

   Chestnut Purée. 

  4 cups  White Stock II. or III.  
 2 cups  French chestnuts  boiled and mashed. 
 1 slice  onion.  
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Cook stock,  chestnuts,   onion,  and  celery salt  ten minutes; rub through sieve, add  milk,  and bind. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Mulligatawny Soup. 

  5 cups  White Stock II.  
 1 cup  tomatoes.  
  Onion,  cut in slices, ) 
  Carrot,  cut in cubes, )1/4 cup each. 
  Celery,  cut in cubes, ) 
 1  pepper,  finely chopped. 
 1  apple,  sliced. 
 1 cup  raw chicken,  cut in dice. 
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  curry powder.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 2  cloves.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
   French Chef.   Cook vegetables and  chicken  in  butter  until brown; add  flour,   curry powder,   mace,   cloves,   parsley,  stock, and  tomato,  and simmer one hour. Strain, reserve  chicken,  and rub vegetables through sieve. Add  chicken  to strained soup, season with  salt  and  pepper,  and serve with  boiled rice.   

 

   Mock Turtle Soup. 

  1  calf's head.  
 6  cloves.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 6  allspice berries.  
 2 sprigs  thyme.  
 1/3 cup sliced  onion.  
 1/3 cup  carrot,  cut in dice. 
 2 cups  brown stock.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  stewed and strained tomatoes.  
  Juice 1/2 lemon.  
  Madeira wine.  
 
  Clean and wash  calf's head;  soak one hour in  cold water  to cover. Cook until tender in three quarts  boiling salted water  (to which  seasoning  and vegetables have been added). Remove head; boil stock until reduced to one quart. Strain and cool. Melt and brown  butter,  add  flour,  and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly brown stock. Add head-stock,  tomato,  one cup  face meat  cut in dice, and  lemon juice.  Simmer five minutes; add  Royal Custard  cut in dice, and  Egg Balls,  or  Force-meat Balls.  Add  Madeira wine,   salt,  and  pepper  to taste.  

   Consommé. 

  3 lbs.  beef, poorer part of round.  
 1 lb.  marrow-bone.  
 3 lbs.  knuckle of veal.  
 1 quart  chicken stock.  
  Carrot,  ) 
  Turnip,  )1/3 cup each, cut in dice. 
  Celery,  ) 
 1/3 cup sliced  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 4  cloves.  
 3 sprigs  thyme.  
 1 sprig  marjoram.  
 2 sprigs  parsley.  
 1/2  bay leaf.  
 
  Cut  beef  in one and one-half inch cubes, and brown one-half in some of the  marrow from marrow-bone;  put remaining half in kettle with  cold water,  add  veal  cut in pieces, browned meat, and  bones.  Let stand one-half hour. Heat slowly to boiling point, and let simmer three hours, removing scum as it forms on top of kettle. Add one quart  liquor in which a fowl  was cooked, and simmer two hours. Cook  carrot,   turnip,   onion,  and  celery  in 
 
 

 butter  five minutes; then add to soup, with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove  fat,  and clear.  

   Consommé à la Royale. 

 Consommé,  served with  Royal Custard.   

   Consommé au Parmesan. 

 Consommé,  served with  Parmesan Pâtes à Chou.   

   Consommé aux Pâtes. 

 Consommé,  served with  noodles,   macaroni,   spaghetti,  or any  Italian pastes,  first cooked in  boiling salted water.   

   Consommé Colbert. 

To six cups  Consommé  add one-third cup each of cooked  green peas,   flageolets,   carrots  cut in small cubes, and  celery  cut in small pieces. Serve a  poached egg  in each plate of soup.  

   Consommé with Vegetables. 

 Consommé,  served with  French string beans,  and cooked  carrots  cut in fancy shapes with  French vegetable cutters.   

   Consommé Princess. 

 Consommé,  served with  green peas  and  cooked chicken meat  cut in small dice.  

 
 
 SOUPS WITH FISH STOCK. 
   Clam Bouillon. 

Wash and scrub with a brush one-half peck  clams,  changing the  water  several times. Put in kettle with three cups  cold water,  cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Strain liquor, cool, and clear.  

 

   Oyster Stew. 

  1 quart  oysters.  
 4 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Clean  oysters  by placing in a  colander  and pouring over them three-fourths cup  cold water.  Carefully pick over  oysters,  reserve liquor, and heat it to boiling point; strain through double  cheese cloth,  add  oysters,  and cook until  oysters  are plump and edges begin to curl. Remove  oysters  with  skimmer,  and put in  tureen  with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  Add  oyster liquor,  strained a second time, and  milk.  Serve with  oyster crackers.   

   Scallop Stew. 

Make as Oyster Stew, using one quart  scallops  in place of oysters.  

   Oyster Soup. 

  1 quart  oysters.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 stalks  celery.  
 2 blades  mace.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Clean and pick over  oysters  as for Oyster Stew; reserve liquor, add  oysters  slightly chopped, and heat slowly to boiling point. Strain through  cheese cloth,  reheat liquor, and thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Scald  milk  with  onion,   celery,   mace,   parsley,  and  bay leaf;  remove seasonings, and add to  oyster liquor.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   French Oyster Soup. 

  1 quart  oysters.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 blades  mace.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Make as Oyster Soup, adding  yolks of eggs,  slightly beaten, just before serving. Garnish with  Fish Quenelles.   

 

   Oyster Gumbo. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 4 cups  fish stock.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  chopped onion.  
 1/2 can  okra.  
 1/3 can  tomatoes.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Clean, pick over, and parboil  oysters,  drain, and add  oyster liquor  to  fish stock.  Cook  onion  five minutes in one-half the  butter;  add to stock. Then add  okra,   tomatoes  heated and drained from some of their liquor,  oysters,  and remaining  butter.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.     Fish Stock 

is the liquor obtained by covering the  head, tail, skin, bones, and small quantity of flesh adhering to bones of fish,  with  cold water,  bringing slowly to boiling point, simmering thirty minutes, and straining.   

   Clam Soup with Poached Eggs. 

  1 quart  clams.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 
  Clean and pick over  clams,  using three-fourths cup  cold water;  reserve liquor. Put aside soft part of  clams;  finely chop hard part, add to liquor, bring gradually to boiling point, strain, then thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion,  add  milk  and soft part of  clams  to stock; cook two minutes. Add seasonings, and pour over  whites of eggs  beaten stiff.  

   Clam and Oyster Soup. 

  1 pint  clams.  
 1 pint  oysters.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 blades  mace.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Clean and pick over  oysters,  using one-third cup  cold water;  reserve liquor, and add  oysters  slightly chopped. 
 
 

Clean and pick over  clams,  reserve liquor, and add to hard part of  clams,  finely chopped; put aside soft part of  clams.  Heat slowly to boiling point  clams  and  oysters  with liquor from both, strain through  cheese cloth.  Scald  milk  with  onion,   mace,   parsley,  and  bay leaf;  remove seasonings, and add  milk  to stock. Thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together, add soft part of  clams,  and cook two minutes. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Cream of Clam Soup. 

Make as French Oyster Soup, using  clams  in place of oysters.  

   Lobster Bisque. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 2 cups  cold water.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 Few grains of  cayenne.  
 
  Remove meat from lobster shell. Add  cold water  to  body bones  and  tough end of claws,  cut in pieces; bring slowly to boiling point, and cook twenty minutes. Drain, reserve liquor, and thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Scald  milk  with tail meat of  lobster,  finely chopped; strain, and add to liquor. Season with  salt  and  cayenne;  then add tender claw meat, cut in dice, and body meat. When coral is found in  lobster,  wash, wipe, force through fine strainer, put in a  mortar  with  butter,  work until well blended, then add  flour,  and stir into soup.  If a richer soup is desired,  White Stock  may be used in place of water.   

 
 
  
 
 

  1. Saucepan, with purée strainer and potato masher. 2. Purée strainer. 3. Soup kettle.  An illustration of three kitchen implements employed in soup making. The caption identifies each implement in order from left to right.  
 CHAPTER IX. 
 SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK. 
   Black Bean Soup. 

  1 pint  black beans.  
 2 quarts  cold water.  
 1 small  onion.  
 2 stalks  celery,  or 
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mustard.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 2  hard boiled eggs.  
 1  lemon.  
 
  Soak  beans  over night; in the morning drain and add  cold water.  Slice  onion,  and cook five minutes with half the  butter,  adding to  beans,  with  celery stalks  broken in pieces. Simmer three or four hours, or until  beans  are soft; add more  water  as  water  boils away. Rub through a sieve, reheat to the boiling point, and add  salt,   pepper,   mustard,  and  cayenne  well mixed. Bind with remaining  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Cut 
 
 

 eggs  in thin slices, and  lemon  in thin slices, removing seeds. Put in  tureen,  and strain the soup over them.  

   Baked Bean Soup. 

  3 cups  cold baked beans.  
 3 pints  water.  
 2 slices  onion.  
 2 stalks  celery.  
 1 1/2 cups  stewed and strained tomatoes.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 tablespoon  Chili sauce.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Put the first four ingredients in saucepan; simmer thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add  tomato  and  Chili sauce,  season to taste with  salt  and  pepper,  and bind with the  butter  and  flour  cooked together.  

   Cream of Lima Bean Soup. 

  1 cup dried  lima beans.  
 3 pints  cold water.  
 2 slices  onion.  
 4 slices  carrot.  
 1 cup  cream  or  milk.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Soak  beans  over night; in the morning drain and add  cold water;  cook until soft, and rub through a sieve. Cut vegetables in small cubes, and cook five minutes in half the  butter;  remove vegetables, add  flour,   salt,  and  pepper,  and stir into boiling soup. Add  cream,  reheat, strain, and add remaining  butter  in small pieces.  

   Celery Soup. 

  3 cups  celery  (in one-half inch pieces). 
 1 pint  boiling water.  
 2 1/2 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Wash and scrape  celery  before cutting in pieces, cook in  boiling water  until soft, rub through a sieve. Scald  milk  with the  onion,  remove  onion,  and add  milk  to  celery.  
 
 

Bind with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Season with  salt  and  pepper.  Outer and old stalks of  celery  may be utilized for soups.  

   Corn Soup. 

  1 can  corn.  
 1 pint  boiling water.  
 1 pint  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Chop the  corn,  add  water,  and simmer twenty minutes; rub through a sieve. Scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion,  and add  milk  to  corn.  Bind with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Add  salt  and  pepper.   

   Halibut Soup. 

  3/4 cup  cold boiled halibut.  
 1 pint  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Rub  fish  through a sieve. Scald  milk  with  onion  and  mace.  Remove seasonings, and add  fish.  Bind with half the  butter,  and  flour,  cooked together. Add  salt,   pepper,  and the remaining  butter  in small pieces.  

   Pea Soup. 

  1 can  Marrowfat peas.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 1 quart  cold water.  
 1 pint  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Drain  peas  from their liquor, add  sugar  and  cold water,  and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, reheat, and thicken with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion,  and add  milk  to pea mixture, season with  salt  and  pepper.   Peas  too old to serve as a vegetable may be utilized for soups.  

 

   Split Pea Soup. 

  1 cup  dried split peas.  
 2 1/2 quarts  cold water.  
 1 pint  milk.  
 1/2  onion.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Pick over  peas  and soak several hours, drain, add  cold water  and  onion.  Simmer three or four hours, or until soft; rub through a sieve. Add  butter  and  flour  cooked together,  salt,  and  pepper.  Dilute with  milk,  adding more if necessary.  The  water in which a ham has been cooked  may be used; in such case omit salt.   

   Kornlet Soup. 

  1 can  kornlet.  
 1 pint  cold water.  
 1 quart  milk,  scalded. 
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  chopped onion.  
 4 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Cook kornlet in  cold water  twenty minutes, rub through a sieve, and add  milk.  Fry  butter  and  onion  three minutes; remove  onion,  add  flour,   salt,  and  pepper,  and stir into boiling soup.  

   Potato Soup. 

  3  potatoes.  
 1 quart  milk.  
 2 slices  onion.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  chopped parsley.  
 
  Cook  potatoes  in  boiling salted water;  when soft, rub through a strainer. Scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion,  and add  milk  slowly to  potatoes.  Melt half the  butter,  add dry ingredients, stir until well mixed, then stir into boiling soup; cook one minute, strain, add remaining  butter,  and sprinkle with  parsley.   

 

   Swiss Potato Soup. 

  4 small  potatoes.  
 1 large flat  white turnip.  
 3 cups  boiling water.  
 1 quart  scalded milk.  
 1/2  onion.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Wash, pare, and cut  potatoes  in halves. Wash, pare, and cut  turnips  in one-quarter inch slices. Parboil together ten minutes, drain, add  onion  cut in slices, and three cups  boiling water.  Cook until vegetables are soft; drain, reserving the  water  to add to vegetables after rubbing them through a sieve. Add  milk,  reheat, and bind with  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Salmon Soup. 

  1/3 can  salmon.  
 1 quart  scalded milk.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 4 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Drain oil from  salmon,  remove skin and bones, rub through a sieve. Add gradually the  milk,  season and bind.  

   Squash Soup. 

  3/4 cup cooked  squash.  
 1 quart  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 
  Rub  squash  through a sieve before measuring. Scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion,  and add  milk  to  squash,  season and bind.  

   Tomato Soup. 

  1 can  tomatoes.  
 1 pint  water.  
 12  peppercorns.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 4  cloves.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  soda.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Cook the first six ingredients twenty minutes; strain, add  salt  and  soda;  bind, and strain into  tureen.   

 

   Cream of Tomato Soup. (Mock Bisque.) 

  1/2 can  tomatoes.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 quart  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 4 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/2 cup  butter.  
 
  Scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion,  and thicken  milk  with  flour  diluted with  cold water  until thin enough to pour, being careful that the mixture is free from lumps; cook twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first. Cook  tomatoes  with  sugar  fifteen minutes, add  soda,  and rub through a sieve; combine mixtures, and strain into  tureen  over  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Vegetable Soup. 

  1/3 cup  carrot.  
 1/3 cup  turnip.  
 1/2 cup  celery.  
 1 1/2 cups  potato.  
 1/2  onion.  
 1 quart  water.  
 5 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 tablespoon  finely chopped parsley.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Wash and scrape a small  carrot;  cut in quarters lengthwise; cut quarters in thirds lengthwise; cut  s thus made in thin slices crosswise. Wash and pare half a  turnip,  and cut and slice same as  carrot.  Wash, pare, and cut  potatoes  in small pieces. Wash and scrape  celery  and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Prepare vegetables before measuring. Cut  onion  in thin slices. Mix vegetables (except  potatoes ), and cook ten minutes, in four tablespoons  butter,  stirring constantly. Add  potatoes,  cover, and cook two minutes. Add  water,  and boil one hour. Beat with spoon or fork to break vegetables. Add remaining  butter  and  parsley.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

  
 
 

 CHOWDERS. 
   Corn Chowder. 

  1 can  corn.  
 4 cups  potatoes,  cut in 1/4 inch slices. 
 1 1/2 inch cube  fat salt pork.  
 1 sliced  onion.  
 4 cups  scalded milk.  
 8 common  crackers.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cut  pork  in small pieces and try out; add  onion  and cook five minutes, stirring often that  onion  may not burn; strain  fat  into a  stewpan.  Parboil  potatoes  five minutes in  boiling water  to cover; drain, and add  potatoes  to  fat;  then add two cups  boiling water;  cook until  potatoes  are soft, add  corn  and  milk,  then heat to boiling point. Season with  salt  and  pepper;  add  butter,  and  crackers  split and soaked in enough  cold milk  to moisten. Remove  crackers,  turn chowder into a  tureen,  and put  crackers  on top.  

   Fish Chowder. 

  4 lb.  cod  or  haddock.  
 6 cups  potatoes  cut in 1/4 inch slices, or 
 4 cups  potatoes  cut in 3/4 inch cubes. 
 1 sliced  onion.  
 1 1/2 inch cube  fat salt pork.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/3 teaspoon  pepper.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 4 cups  scalded milk.  
 8 common  crackers.  
 
  Order the fish skinned, but head and tail left on. Cut off head and tail and remove fish from backbone. Cut  fish  in two-inch pieces and set aside. Put  head,   tail,  and  backbone  broken in pieces, in  stewpan;  add two cups  cold water  and bring slowly to boiling point; cook twenty minutes. Cut  salt pork  in small pieces and try out, add  onion,  and fry five minutes; strain  fat  into  stewpan.  Parboil  potatoes  five minutes in  boiling water  to cover; drain, and add  potatoes  to  fat;  then add two cups  boiling 
 
 

water  and cook five minutes. Add  liquor drained from bones and fish;  cover, and simmer ten minutes. Add  milk,   salt,   pepper,   butter,  and  crackers  split and soaked in enough  cold milk  to moisten.  Pilot bread  is sometimes used in place of common  crackers.   

   Connecticut Chowder. 

  4 lb.  cod  or  haddock.  
 4 cups  potatoes  cut in 3/4 inch cubes. 
 1 1/2 inch cube  fat salt pork.  
 1 sliced  onion.  
 2 1/2 cups  stewed and strained tomatoes.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 2/3 cup  cracker crumbs.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Prepare as Fish Chowder, using  liquor drained from bones  for cooking  potatoes,  instead of additional water. Use  tomatoes  in place of milk and add  cracker crumbs  just before serving.  

   Clam Chowder. 

  1 quart  clams.  
 4 cups  potatoes  cut in 3/4 inch dice. 
 1 1/2 inch cube  fat salt pork.  
 1 sliced  onion.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 4 cups  scalded milk.  
 8 common  crackers.  
 
  Clean and pick over  clams,  using one cup  cold water;  drain, reserve liquor, heat to boiling point, and strain. Chop finely hard part of  clams;  cut  pork  in small pieces and try out; add  onion,  fry five minutes, and strain into a  stewpan.  Parboil  potatoes  five minutes in  boiling water  to cover; drain and put a layer in bottom of  stewpan,  add chopped  clams,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dredge generously with  flour;  add remaining  potatoes,  again sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and add two and one-half cups  boiling water.  Cook ten minutes, add  milk,  soft part of  clams,  and  butter;  boil three minutes, and add  crackers  split and soaked in enough  cold milk  to moisten. Reheat  clam water  to boiling point, 
 
 

and thicken with one tablespoon  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Add to chowder just before serving.  The  clam water  has a tendency to cause the  milk  to separate, hence is added at the last.  

   Lobster Chowder. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 common  crackers,  finely pounded. 
 4 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1 cup  cold water.  
  Salt.  
  Paprika  or  cayenne.  
 
  Remove meat from lobster shell and cut in small dice. Cream two tablespoons  butter,  add  liver of lobster  (green part), and  crackers;  scald  milk  with  onion,  remove  onion  and add  milk  to mixture. Cook  body bones  ten minutes in  cold water  to cover, strain, and add to mixture with  lobster  dice. Season with  salt  and  paprika.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER X. 
 SOUP GARNISHINGS AND FORCE-MEATS. 
   Crisp Crackers. 

Split common  crackers  and spread thinly with  butter,  allowing one-fourth teaspoon  butter  to each half  cracker;  put in pan and bake until delicately browned.  

   Croûtons (Duchess Crusts). 

Cut  stale bread  in one-third inch slices, remove crusts, and spread thinly with  butter.  Cut slices in one-third inch cubes, put in pan and bake until delicately browned, or fry in deep  fat.   

   Imperial Sticks. 

Cut  stale bread  in one-third inch slices, remove crusts, spread thinly with  butter,  and cut slices in one-third inch  s; put in pan and bake until delicately browned.  

   Egg Balls. 

   Yolks 2 hard boiled eggs.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/2 teaspoon  melted butter.  
 
  Rub  yolks  through sieve, add seasonings, and moisten with  raw egg yolk  to make of consistency to handle. Shape in small balls, roll in  flour,  and sauté in  butter.  Serve in  Brown Soup Stock,   Consommé,  or  Mock Turtle Soup.   

 

   Egg Custard. 

   Yolks 2 eggs.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add  milk  and  salt.  Pour into small buttered cup, place in pan of  hot water  and bake until firm; cool, remove from cup, and cut in fancy shapes with  French vegetable cutters.   

   Royal Custard. 

   Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup  Consommé.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add Consommé and seasonings. Pour into a small buttered tin mould, place in pan of  hot water  and bake until firm; cool, remove from mould, and cut in fancy shapes.  

   Noodles. 

  1  egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
  Flour.  
 
  Beat  egg  slightly, add  salt,  and  flour  enough to make very stiff dough; knead, toss on slightly floured board, and roll thinly as possible, which may be as thin as paper. Cover with towel, and set aside for twenty minutes; then cut in fancy shapes, using sharp knife or  French vegetable cutter;  or the thin sheet may be rolled like jelly-roll, cut in slices as thinly as possible, and pieces unrolled. Dry, and when needed cook twenty minutes in  boiling salted water;  drain, and add to soup.  Noodles may be served as a vegetable.  

   Fritter Beans. 

  1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 
  Beat  egg  until light, add  milk,   salt,  and  flour.  Put through  colander  or  pastry tube  into deep  fat,  and fry until brown; drain on brown paper.  

 

   Pâte au Chou. 

  2 1/2 tablespoons  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lard.  
 1/2 teaspoon  butter.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Heat  butter,   lard,  and  milk  to boiling point, add  flour  and  salt,  and stir vigorously. Remove from fire, add  egg  unbeaten, and stir until well mixed. Cool, and drop small pieces from tip of teaspoon into deep  fat.  Fry until brown and crisp, and drain on brown paper.  

   Parmesan Pâte au Chou. 

To  Pâte au Chou mixture  add two tablespoons  grated Parmesan cheese.   

   White Bait Garnish. 

Roll trimmings of puff paste, and cut in pieces three-fourths inch long and one-eighth inch wide; fry in deep  fat  until well browned, and drain on brown paper. Serve on folded napkin, to be passed with soup.  

   Fish Force-meat. 

  1/4 cup fine  stale bread crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 2/3 cup  raw fish.  
  Salt.  
 
  Cook  bread  and  milk  to a paste, add  egg  well beaten, and  fish  pounded and forced through a  purée strainer.  Season with  salt.  A  meat chopper  is of great assistance in making force-meats, as  raw fish  or meat may be easily forced through it.  Bass,   halibut,  or  pickerel  are the best  fish  to use for force-meat. Force-meat is often shaped into small balls.  

   Clam Force-meat. 

Follow recipe for Oyster Force-meat, using soft part of  clams  in place of oysters.  

 

   Salmon Force-meat. 

  1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/2 cup soft  stale bread crumbs.  
 1/2  cold flaked salmon.  
 2 tablespoons  cream.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Cook  milk  and  bread crumbs  ten minutes, add  salmon  chopped and rubbed through a sieve; then add  cream,   egg  slightly beaten,  melted butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Oyster Force-meat. 

To  Fish Force-meat  add one-fourth small  onion,  finely chopped, and fried five minutes in one-half tablespoon  butter;  then add one-third cup soft part of  oysters,  parboiled and finely chopped, one-third cup  mushrooms  finely chopped, and one-third cup  Thick White Sauce.  Season with  salt,   cayenne,  and one teaspoon  finely chopped parsley.   

   Chicken Force-meat I. 

  1/2 cup fine  stale bread crumbs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
  White 1 egg.  
 2/3 cup  breast raw chicken.  
  Salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 
  Cook  bread  and  milk  to a paste, add  butter,   white of egg  beaten stiff, and seasonings; then add  chicken  pounded and forced through  purée strainer.   

   Chicken Force-meat II. 

  1/2 breast  raw chicken.  
  White 1 egg.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
  Heavy cream.  
 
  Chop  chicken  finely, or force through a  meat chopper.  Pound in  mortar,  add gradually  white of egg,  and work until smooth; then add  heavy cream  slowly until of right consistency, which can only be determined by cooking a small ball in  boiling salted water.  Add seasonings, and rub through sieve.  

 

   Quenelles. 

Quenelles are made from any kind of  force-meat,  shaped in small balls or between tablespoons, making an oval, or by forcing mixture through pastry bag on buttered paper. They are cooked in  boiling salted water  or  stock,  and are served as garnish to soups or other dishes; when served with  sauce,  they are an entrée.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XI. 
 FISH. 
 THE meat of fish is the animal food next in importance to that of birds and mammals. Fish meat, with but few exceptions, is less stimulating and nourishing than meat of other animals, but is usually easier of digestion. Salmon, mackerel, and eels are exceptions to these rules, and should not be eaten by those of weak digestion. White-blooded fish, on account of their easy digestibility, are especially desirable for those of sedentary habits. Fish is not recommended for brain-workers on account of the large amount of phosphorus (an element abounding largely in nerve tissue) which it contains, but because of its easy digestibility. It is a conceded fact that many fish contain less of this element than meat.  Fish meat is generally considered cheaper than meat of other animals. This is true when compared with the better cuts of meat, but not so when compared with cheaper cuts.  To obtain from fish its greatest value and flavor, it should be eaten fresh, and in season. Turbot, which is improved by keeping, is the only exception to this rule. 
  
 To Determine Freshness of Fish. 
Examine the flesh, and it should be firm; the eyes and gills, and they should be bright.  
 Broiling and baking are best methods for cooking fish. White-blooded fish may often be fried, but red-blooded rarely. Frozen fish are undesirable; but if used, should be thawed in cold water just before cooking.  On account of its strong odor, fish should never be put in an  ice-box  with other food, unless closely covered. A tin  lard pail  will be found useful for this purpose. 
  
 
 

 White and Red Blooded Fish. 
 White-blooded fish have fat secreted in the liver. Examples: Cod, haddock, trout, flounder, smelt, perch, etc.  Red-blooded fish have fat distributed throughout the flesh. Examples: Salmon, eels, mackerel, blue-fish, sword-fish, shad, herring, etc. 
   Cod   belongs to one of the most prolific fish families (Gadidoe), and is widely distributed throughout the northern and temperate seas of both hemispheres. On account of its abundance, cheapness, and easy procurability, it forms, from an economical standpoint, one of the most important fish foods. Cod have been caught weighing over a hundred pounds, but average market cod weigh from six to ten pounds; a six-pound cod measures about twenty-three inches in length. Large cod are cut into steaks. The skin of cod is white, heavily mottled with gray, with a white line running the entire length of fish on either side. Cod is caught in shallow or deep waters. Shallow-water cod (caught off rocks) is called rock cod; deep-water cod is called off-shore cod. Rock cod are apt to be wormy. Cod obtained off George's Banks, Newfoundland, are called George's cod, and are commercially known as the best fish. Quantities of cod are preserved by drying and salting. Salted George's cod is the best brand on the market. Cod is in season throughout the year.  
  Cod Liver Oil   is obtained from cods' livers, and has great therapeutic value. Isinglass, made from swimming bladder of cod, nearly equals in quality that made from bladder of sturgeon.  
  Haddock   is more closely allied to cod than any other fish. It is smaller (its average weight being about four pounds), and differently mottled. The distinguishing mark of the haddock is a black line running the entire length of fish on either side. Haddock is found in the same water and in company with cod, but not so abundantly. Like cod, haddock is cheap, and in season throughout 
 
 

the year.   Haddock, when dried, smoked, and salted, is known as   Finnan Haddie.  
  Halibut   is the largest of the flatfish family (PleuronectidÆ), specimens having been caught weighing from three to four hundred pounds. Small, or chicken, halibut is the kind usually found in market, and weighs from fifteen to twenty-five pounds. Halibut are distinctively cold-water fish, being caught in water at from 32° to 45° F. They are found in the North Atlantic and North Pacific Oceans, where they are nearly identical. The halibut has a compressed body, the skin on one side being white, on the other light, or dark gray, and both eyes are found on the dark side of head. Halibut is in season throughout the year.  
  Turbot   (called little halibut) is a species of the flatfish family, being smaller than halibut, and of more delicate flavor. Turbot are in season from January to March.  
  Flounder   is a small flatfish, which closely resembles the sole which is caught in English waters, and is often served under that name.  
  Trout   are generally fresh-water fish, varying much in size and skin-coloring. Lake trout, which are the largest, reach their greatest perfection in Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, but are found in many lakes. Salmon trout is the name applied to trout caught in New York lakes. Brook trout, caught in brooks and small lakes, are superior eating. Trout are in season from April to August, but a few are found later.  
  Whitefish   is the finest fish found in the Great Lakes.  
  Smelts   are small salt water fish, and are usually caught in temperate waters at the mouths of rivers. New Brunswick and Maine send large quantities of smelts to market. Selected smelts are the largest in size, and command higher price. The Massachusetts Fish and Game Protective Law forbids their sale from March 15th to June 1st. Smelts are always sold by the pound.  
  Bluefish   belongs to the PomatomidÆ family. It is widely distributed in temperate waters, taking different 
 
 

names in different localities. In New England and the Middle States it is generally called Bluefish, although in some parts called Snappers, or Snapping Mackerel. In the Southern States it is called Greenfish. It is in season in our markets from May to October; as it is frozen and kept in cold storage from six to nine months, it may be obtained throughout the year. The heavier the fish, the better its quality. Bluefish weigh from one to eight pounds, and are from fourteen to twenty-nine inches in length.  
  Mackerel   is one of the best-known food fishes, and is caught in North Atlantic waters. Its skin is lustrous dark blue above, with wavy blackish lines, and silvery below. It sometimes attains a length of eighteen inches, but is usually less. Mackerel weigh from three-fourths of a pound to two pounds, and are sold by the piece. They are in season from May 1st to September 1st. Mackerel, when first in market, contain less fat than later in the season, therefore are easier of digestion. The supply of mackerel varies greatly from year to year, and some years is very small.   Spanish Mackerel   are found in waters farther south than common mackerel, and in our markets command higher price.  
  Salmon   live in both fresh and salt waters, always going inland, usually to the head of rivers, during the spawning season. The young after a time seek salt water, but generally return to fresh water. Penobscot River Salmon are the best, and come from Maine and St. John, New Brunswick. The average weight of salmon is from fifteen to twenty-five pounds, and the flesh is of pinkish orange color. Salmon are in season from May to September, but frozen salmon may be obtained the greater part of the year. In the Columbia River and its tributaries salmon are so abundant that extensive canneries are built along the banks.  
  Shad,   like salmon, are found in both salt and fresh water, always ascending rivers for spawning. Shad is caught on the Atlantic coast of the United States, and its capture constitutes one of the most important fisheries. 
 
 

Shad have a silvery hue, which becomes bluish on the back; they vary in length from eighteen to twenty-eight inches, and are always sold by the piece, price being irrespective of size.   Jack shad  are usually cheaper than  roe shad.   The roe of shad is highly esteemed. Shad are in season from January to June. First shad in market come from Florida, and retail from one and one-half to two dollars each. The finest come from New Brunswick, and appear in market about the first of May.  
  Caviare   is the salted roe of the sturgeon.  
  Herring   are usually smoked, or smoked and salted, and, being very cheap, are a most economical food.  
 
 
 
 SHELLFISH. 
 
 I. Bivalve Mollusks. 
  Oysters  are mollusks, having two shells. The shells are on the right and left side of the oyster, and are called right and left valves. The one upon which the oyster rests, grows faster, becomes deeper, and is known as the left valve. The valves are fastened by a ligament, which, on account of its elasticity, admits of opening and closing of the shells. The oyster contains a tough muscle, by which it is attached to the shell; the body is made up largely of the liver (which contains  glycogen,  animal starch), and is partially surrounded by fluted layers, which are the gills. Natural oyster beds (or banks) are found in shallow salt water having stony bottom, along the entire Atlantic coast. The oyster industry of the world is chiefly in the United States and France, and on account of its increase many artificial beds have been prepared for oyster culture. Oysters are five years old before suitable for eating. Blue Points, which are small, plump oysters, take their name from Blue Point, Long Island, from which place they originally came. Their popularity grew so rapidly that the supply became inadequate for the demand, 
 
 

and any small, plump oysters were soon sold for Blue Points. During the oyster season they form the first course of a dinner, served raw on the half-shell. In our markets, selected oysters (which are extremely large and used for broiling), Providence River, and Norfolk oysters are familiarly known, and, taken out of the shells, are sold by the quart. Farther south, they are sold by count.  Oysters are obtainable all the year, but are in season from September to May. During the summer months they are flabby and of poor flavor, although when fresh they are perfectly wholesome.  Mussels,  eaten in England and other parts of Europe, are similar to oysters, though of inferior quality. Oysters are nutritious and of easy digestibility, especially when eaten raw. 
   To Open Oysters. 

Put a thin, flat knife under the back end of the right valve, and push forward until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the shells together. As soon as this is done, the right valve may be raised and separated from the left.  

   To Clean Oysters. 

Put  oysters  in a strainer placed over a bowl. Pour over oysters  cold water,  allowing one-half cup  water  to each quart  oysters.  Carefully pick over  oysters,  taking each one separately in the fingers, to remove any particles of shell which adhere to tough muscle.  

   Clams,   among bivalve mollusks, rank in value next to oysters. They are found just below the surface of sand and mud, above low-water mark, and are easily dug with shovel or rake. Clams have hard or soft shells. Soft-shell clams are dear to the New Englander. From New York to Florida are found hard-shelled clams (quahaugs).   Small quahaugs  are called  Little Neck Clams   and take the place of Blue Points at dinner, when Blue Points are out of season.  
  Scallops   are bivalve mollusks, the best being found in Long Island Sound and Narragansett Bay. The central muscle forms the edible portion, and is the only part sent to market. Scallops are in season from October first to April first.  
 
 
  
 
 

 II. Crustaceans. 
  Lobsters  belong to the highest order of Crustaceans, live exclusively in sea-water, generally near rocky coasts, and are caught in pots set on gravelly bottoms. The largest and best species are found in Atlantic waters from Maine to New Jersey, being most abundant on Maine and Massachusetts coasts. Lobsters have been found weighing from sixteen to twenty-five pounds, but such have been exterminated from our coast. The average weight is two pounds, and the length from ten to fifteen inches. Lobsters are largest and most abundant from June to September, but are obtainable all the year. When taken from the water, shells are of mottled dark green color, except when found on sandy bottoms, when they are quite red. Lobsters are generally boiled, causing the shell to turn red.  A lobster consists of body, tail, two large claws, and four pairs of small claws. On lower side of body, in front of large claws, are various small organs which surround the mouth, and a long and short pair of feelers. Under the tail are found several pairs of appendages. In the female lobster, also called hen lobster, is found, during the breeding season, the spawn, known as  coral.  Sex is determined by the pair of appendages in the tail which lie nearest the body; in the female they are soft and pliable, in the male hard and stiff. At one time small lobsters were taken in such quantities that it was feared, if the practice was long continued, they would be exterminated. To protect the continuance of lobster fisheries, a law has been passed in many states prohibiting their sale unless at least ten inches long.  Lobsters shed their shells at irregular intervals, when old ones are outgrown. The new ones begin to form and take on distinctive characteristics before the old ones are discarded. New shells after twenty-four hours' exposure to the water are quite hard.  
 
 

 Lobsters, being coarse feeders (taking almost any animal substance attainable), are difficult of digestion, and with some create great gastric disturbance; notwithstanding, they are seldom found diseased.   To Select a Lobster.  Take in the hand, and if heavy in proportion to its size, the lobster is fresh. Straighten the tail, and if it springs into place the lobster was alive (as it should have been) when put into the pot for boiling. There is greater shrinkage in lobsters than in any other fish. 
   To Open Lobsters. 

Take off large claws, small claws, and separate tail from body. Tail meat may sometimes be drawn out whole with a fork; more often it is necessary to cut the thin shell portion (using scissors or a  can-opener ) in under part of the tail, then the tail meat may always be removed whole. Separate tail meat through centre, and remove the small intestinal vein which runs its entire length; although generally darker than the meat, it is sometimes found of the same color. Hold body shell firmly in left hand, and with first two fingers and thumb of right hand draw out the body, leaving in shell the stomach (known as  the lady ), which is not edible, and also some of the green part, the  liver.  The liver may be removed by shaking the shell. The sides of the body are covered with the  lungs;  these are always discarded. Break body through the middle and separate body bones, picking out meat that lies between them, which is some of the sweetest and tenderest to be found. Separate large claws at joints. If shells are thin, with a knife cut off a   down the sharp edge, so that shell may be broken apart and meat removed whole. Where shell is thick, it must be broken with a mallet or hammer. Small claws are used for garnishing. The shell of body, tail, and lower part of large claws, if not broken, may be washed, dried, and used for serving of lobster meat after it has been prepared. The portions of  lobsters  which are not edible are  lungs, stomach  (lady), and  intestinal vein.   

 

  Crabs  among Crustaceans are next in importance to lobsters, commercially speaking. They are about two and one-half inches long by five inches wide, and are found along the Atlantic coast from Massachusetts to Florida, and in the Gulf of Mexico. Crabs, like lobsters, change their shells.  Soft-shell crabs  are those which have recently shed their old shells, and the new shells have not had time to harden; these are considered by many a great luxury.  Oyster crabs  (very small crabs found in shells with oysters), are a delicacy not often indulged in. Crabs are in season during the spring and summer.   Shrimps  are found largely in our Southern waters, the largest and best coming from Lake Pontchartrain. They are about two inches long, covered with a thin shell, and are boiled and sent to market with heads removed. Their grayish color is changed to pink by boiling. Shrimps are in season from May first to October first, and are generally used for salads. Canned shrimps are much used and favorably known.   Reptiles.  Frogs and terrapin belong to a lower order of animals than fish,--reptiles. They are both table delicacies, and are eaten by the few.  Only the hind legs of frogs are eaten, and have much the same flavor as chicken.  Terrapin, although sold in our large cities, specially belong to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, where they are cooked and served at their best. They are shipped from the South, packed in seaweed, and may be kept for some time in a dark place. Terrapin are found in both fresh and salt water. The Diamond Back, salt water terrapin, coming from Chesapeake Bay, are considered the best, and command a very high price. Terrapin closely resembling Diamond Back, coming from Texas and Florida, are principally sold in our markets. Terrapin are in season from November to April, but are best in January, February, and March. They should always be cooked alive.  
 
  
 
 

 TO PREPARE FISH FOR COOKING. 
   To Clean a Fish. 

 Fish  are cleaned and dressed at market as ordered, but need additional cleaning before cooking. Remove scales which have not been taken off. This is done by drawing a knife over  fish,  beginning at tail and working towards head, occasionally wiping knife and scales from  fish.  Incline knife slightly towards you to prevent scales from flying. The largest number of scales will be found on the flank. Wipe thoroughly inside and out with cloth wrung out of  cold water,  removing any clotted blood which may be found adhering to backbone.  Head and tail may or may not be removed, according to size of  fish  and manner of cooking.  Small fish  are generally served with head and tail left on.  

   To skin a Fish. 

With sharp knife remove fins along the back and cut off a narrow   of skin the entire length of back. Loosen skin on one side from bony part of gills, and being once started, if  fish  is fresh, it may be readily drawn off; if flesh is soft do not work too quickly, as it will be badly torn. By allowing knife to closely follow skin this may be avoided. After removing skin from one side, turn  fish  and skin the other side.  

   To Bone a Fish. 

Clean and skin before boning. Beginning at the tail, run a sharp knife under flesh close to backbone, and with knife follow bone (making as clean a cut as possible) its entire length, thus accomplishing the removal of one-half the flesh; turn and remove flesh from other side. Pick out with fingers any small bones that may remain.  Cod,   haddock,   halibut,  and  whitefish  are easily and frequently boned;  flounders  and  smelts,  occasionally.  

   To Fillet Fish. 

Clean, skin, and bone. A piece of  fish  large or small, freed from skin and bones, is known as a fillet.  Halibut,  cut in three-fourths inch slices, is more often cut in fillets than any kind of  fish,  and fillets are frequently rolled.  When  flounder  is cut in fillets it is 
 
 

served under the name of  fillet of sole. 

   Sole  found in English waters is much esteemed, and  flounder  is our nearest approach to it.  

  To fillet a slice of fish, and to roll and skewer a fillet.  A large slice of fish in front of several pots and pans stacked in the background. A person's hands are also shown holding up a small circular slice of fish.  
 
 
 WAYS OF COOKING FISH. 
   To cook Fish in Boiling Water. 

Small  cod,   haddock,  or  cusk  are cooked whole in enough  boiling water  to cover, to which is added  salt  and  lemon juice  or  vinegar.   Salt  gives flavor;  lemon juice  or  vinegar  keeps the flesh white. A long  fish-kettle  containing a rack on which to place  fish  is useful but rather expensive. In place of  fish-kettle,  if the  fish  is not too large to be coiled in it, a  frying-basket  may be used placed in any kettle.   Large fish  are cut in thick pieces for boiling, containing the number of pounds required. Examples:  Salmon  and  halibut.   Pieces cut from  large fish  for boiling should be cleaned and tied in a piece of  cheese cloth  to prevent scum being deposited on the  fish.  If skin is not removed before serving, 
 
 

scald the dark skin and scrape to remove coloring; this may be easily accomplished by holding  fish  on two forks, and lowering into  boiling water  the part covered with black skin; then remove and scrape. Time required for  boiling fish  depends on extent of surface exposed to  water.  Consult Time Table for Boiling, which will serve as a guide. The  fish  is cooked when flesh leaves the bone, no matter how long the time.  

   To Broil Fish. 

 Cod,   haddock,   bluefish,  and  mackerel  are split down the back and broiled whole, removing head and tail or not, as desired.  Salmon,   chicken halibut,  and  swordfish  are cut in inch slices for broiling.  Smelts  and other small  fish  are broiled whole, without splitting. Clean and wipe  fish  as dry as possible, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and place in well greased  wire broiler.  Slices of  fish  should be turned often while broiling; whole  fish  should be first broiled on flesh side, then turned and broiled on skin side just long enough to make skin brown and crisp.  To remove from  broiler,  loosen  fish  on one side, turn and loosen on other side; otherwise flesh will cling to  broiler.  Slip from  broiler  to hot platter, or place platter over  fish  and invert platter and  broiler  together.  

   To Bake Fish. 

Clean, and bake on a greased  fish-sheet  placed in a  dripping-pan.  If a  fish-sheet  is not at hand, place  s of cotton cloth under  fish,  by which it may be lifted from pan.  

   To Fry Fish. 

Clean  fish  and wipe as dry as possible. Sprinkle with  salt,  dip in  flour  or  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and fry in deep  fat.   

   To Sauté Fish. 

Prepare as for frying, and cook in frying-pan with small amount of  fat;  or, if preferred, dip in  granulated corn meal.   Cod steak  and  smelts  are often cooked in this way.  

 
  
 
 

 
 TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH USED FOR FOOD. 
 
 Articles. 
 Refuse. 
 Proteid. 
 Fat. 
 Mineral Matter. 
  
 Water. 
 
 
 Bass, black............. 
 54.8 
 9.3 
 .8 
 .5 
  
 34.6 
 
 
 Bluefish................ 
 55.7 
 8.3 
 .5 
 .5 
  
 35. 
 
 
 Butterfish.............. 
 42.8 
 10.2 
 6.3 
 .6 
  
 40.1 
 
 
 Cod, fresh.............. 
 52.5 
 8. 
 .2 
 .6 
  
 38.7 
 
 
 Cod, salt, boneless..... 
  
 22.2 
 .3 
 23.1 
  
 54.4 
 
 
 Cusk.................... 
 40.3 
 10.1 
 .1 
 .5 
  
 49. 
 
 
 Eels.................... 
 20.2 
 14.6 
 7.2 
 .8 
  
 57.2 
 
 
 Flounder................ 
 61.5 
 5.6 
 .3 
 .5 
  
 32.1 
 
 
 Haddock................. 
 51. 
 8.2 
 .2 
 .6 
  
 40. 
 
 
 Halibut, sections....... 
 17.7 
 15.1 
 4.4 
 .9 
  
 61.9 
 
 
 Herring................. 
 42.6 
 10.9 
 3.9 
 .9 
  
 41.7 
 
 
 Mackerel................ 
 44.6 
 10. 
 4.3 
 .7 
  
 40.4 
 
 
 Mackerel, Spanish....... 
 34.6 
 13.7 
 6.2 
 1. 
  
 44.5 
 
 
 Perch, white............ 
 62.5 
 7.2 
 1.5 
 .4 
  
 28.4 
 
 
 Pickerel................ 
 47.1 
 9.8 
 .2 
 .7 
  
 42.2 
 
 
 Pompano................. 
 45.5 
 10.2 
 4.3 
 .5 
  
 39.5 
 
 
 Red Snapper............. 
 46.1 
 10.6 
 .6 
 .7 
  
 42. 
 
 
 Salmon.................. 
 39.2 
 12.4 
 8.1 
 .9 
  
 39.4 
 
 
 Shad.................... 
 50.1 
 9.2 
 4.8 
 .7 
  
 35.2 
 
 
  
 Carbohydrates. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Shad, roe............... 
 2.6 
 20.9 
 3.8 
 1.5 
  
 71.2 
 
 
  
 Refuse. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Sheepshead.............. 
 66. 
 6.4 
 .2 
 .5 
  
 26.9 
 
 
 Smelts.................. 
 41.9 
 10. 
 1. 
 1. 
  
 46.1 
 
 
 Trout................... 
 48.1 
 9.8 
 1.1 
 .6 
  
 40.4 
 
 
 Turbot.................. 
 47.7 
 6.8 
 7.5 
 .7 
  
 37.3 
 
 
 Whitefish............... 
 53.5 
 10.3 
 3. 
 .7 
  
 32.5 
 
 
  
  
  
  
  
 Carbohydrates. 
  
 
 
 Lobsters................ 
 61.7 
 5.9 
 .7 
 .8 
 .2 
 30.7 
 
 
 Clams, out of shell..... 
  
 10.6 
 1.1 
 2.3 
 5.2 
 80.8 
 
 
 Oysters, solid.......... 
  
 6.1 
 1.4 
 .9 
 3.3 
 88.3 
 
 
 Crabs, soft shell....... 
  
 15.8 
 1.5 
 2. 
 .7 
 80. 
  
 W. O. Atwater, Ph. D.  
 
 

   Boiled Haddock. 

Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Remove to a hot platter, garnish with slices of  hard boiled eggs  and  parsley,  and serve with  Egg Sauce.   A thick piece of   halibut  

may be boiled and served in the same way.   

   Boiled Salmon. 

Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Place on a hot platter, remove skin, and garnish with slices of  lemon  and  parsley.  Serve with  Egg Sauce I. or II.,  or  Hollandaise Sauce.   

   Broiled Scrod. 

A young  cod,  split down the back, and backbone removed, except a small portion near the tail, is called a  scrod.  Scrod are always broiled, spread with  butter,  and sprinkled with  salt  and  pepper.     Haddock  

is also so dressed.   

   Broiled Chicken Halibut. 

Clean and broil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Spread with  butter,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Broiled Swordfish. 

Clean and broil  fish,  spread with  butter,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and serve with  Cucumber or Horseradish Sauce.   

   Broiled Shad Roe. 

Wipe, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  put on greased  wire broiler,  and broil five minutes on each side. Serve with  Maître d'Hôtel Butter.     Mackerel roe  

are delicious cooked in this way.   

   Baked Halibut with Stuffing. 

Clean a four-pound  haddock,  sprinkle with  salt  inside and out, stuff and sew. Cut five diagonal gashes on each 
 
 

  Baked Stuffed Fish.  A large piece of fish served on an oval platter and garnished with parsley.  
side of backbone and insert narrow  s of  fat salt pork,  having gashes on one side come between gashes on other side. Shape with  skewers  in form of letter S, and fasten  skewers  with small twine. Place on greased  fish-sheet  in a  dripping-pan,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  brush over with  melted butter,  dredge with  flour,  and place around  fish  small pieces of  fat salt pork.  Bake one hour in hot oven, basting as soon as  fat  is tried out, and continue basting every ten minutes. Serve with  Drawn Butter, Egg or Hollandaise Sauce.   

   Fish Stuffing I. 

  1/2 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/2 cup  stale bread crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
 1/4 cup  hot water.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given.  

   Fish Stuffing II. 

  1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
  Parsley,  }  
  Capers,   } 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped. 
  Pickles,  } 
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. This makes a dry, crumbly stuffing.  

 

   Baked Bluefish. 

Clean a four-pound  bluefish,  stuff, sew, and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing, omitting to cut gashes on sides, as the  fish  is rich enough without addition of pork. Baste often with one-third cup  butter  melted in two-thirds cup  boiling water.  Serve with  Shrimp Sauce.   

   Bluefish à l'Italienne. 

Clean a four-pound  bluefish,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and put side down on buttered  fish-sheet  in a  dripping-pan.  Add three tablespoons  white wine,  three tablespoons  mushroom liquor,  one-half  onion  finely chopped, eight  mushrooms  finely chopped, and enough  water  to allow sufficient liquor in pan for basting. Bake forty-five minutes in hot oven, basting five times. Serve with  Sauce à l'Italienne.   

   Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing. 

Clean a four-pound  cod,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  brush over with  lemon juice,  stuff, and sew. Gash, skewer, and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing. Serve with  Oyster Sauce.   

   Oyster Stuffing. 

  1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
 1/2 tablespoon  finely chopped parsley.  
 1 cup  oysters.  
 
  Add seasonings and  butter  to  cracker crumbs.  Clean  oysters,  and remove tough muscles; add soft parts to mixture, with enough  oyster liquor  to moisten.  

   Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing. 

Remove skin, head, and tail from a four-pound  haddock.  Bone, leaving in large bones near head, to keep fillets in shape of the original fish. Sprinkle with  salt,  and brush over with  lemon juice.  Lay one fillet on 
 
 

greased  fish-sheet  in a  dripping-pan,  cover thickly with  oysters,  cleaned, and dipped in  buttered cracker crumbs,  seasoned with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  oysters  with other fillet, brush with  egg  slightly beaten, cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with  Hollandaise Sauce I.  Allow one pint  oysters  and one cup  cracker crumbs.   

   Baked Halibut with Tomato Sauce. 

  2 lbs.  halibut.  
 2 cups  tomatoes.  
 1 cup  water.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 3  cloves.  
 1/2 tablespoon  sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Cook twenty minutes  tomatoes,   water,   onion,   cloves,  and  sugar.  Melt  butter,  add  flour,  and stir into hot mixture. Add  salt  and  pepper,  cook ten minutes, and strain. Clean  fish,  put in  baking-pan,  pour around half the  sauce,  and bake thirty-five minutes, basting often. Remove to hot platter, pour around remaining  sauce,  and garnish with  parsley.   

   Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce. 

Clean a piece of  halibut  weighing three pounds. Cut gashes in top, and insert a narrow   of  fat salt pork  in each gash. Place in  dripping-pan  on  fish-sheet,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dredge with  flour.  Cover bottom of pan with  water,  add sprig of  parsley,  slice of  onion,  two slices  carrot  cut in pieces, and bit of  bay leaf.  Bake one hour, basting with one-fourth cup  butter,  and the liquor in pan. Serve with  Lobster Sauce.   

   Baked Mackerel. 

Split  fish,  clean, and remove head and tail. Put in buttered  dripping-pan,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dot over with  butter  (allowing one tablespoon to a medium-sized  fish ), and pour over two-thirds cup  milk.  Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven.  

 

   Planked Shad or Whitefish. 

Clean and split a three-pound  shad.  Put skin side down on an oak plank one inch thick, and a little longer and wider than the  fish,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and brush over with  melted butter.  Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, spread with  butter,  and garnish with  parsley  and  lemon.  The  fish  should be sent to the table on plank. Planked  Shad  is well cooked in a gas range having the flame over the  fish.   The Planked  Whitefish  of the Great Lakes has gained much flavor.  

   Baked Stuffed Smelts. 

Clean and wipe as dry as possible twelve selected  smelts.  Stuff, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and brush over with  lemon juice.  Place in buttered shallow plate, cover with buttered paper, and bake five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, sprinkle with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown. Serve with  Sauce Béarnaise.    Stuffing.  Cook one tablespoon finely chopped  onion  with one tablespoon  butter  three minutes. Add one-fourth cup finely chopped  mushrooms,  one-fourth cup soft part of  oysters  (parboiled, drained, and chopped), one-half teaspoon chopped  parsley,  three tablespoons  Thick White Sauce,  and one-half cup  Fish Force-meat.   

   Baked Shad Roe Tomato Sauce. 

Cook  shad roe  fifteen minutes in  boiling salted water  to cover, with one-half tablespoon  vinegar;  drain, cover with  cold water,  and let stand five minutes. Remove from  cold water,  and place on buttered pan with three-fourths cup  Tomato Sauce I. and II.  Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting every five minutes. Remove to a platter, and pour around three-fourths cup  Tomato Sauce.   

   Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut. 

Cut  bass  or  halibut  into small fillets, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  put into a shallow pan, cover with buttered 
 
 

paper, and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Arrange on a  rice  border, garnish with  parsley,  and serve with  Hollandaise Sauce II.   

   Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce. 

Cut a slice of  halibut  weighing one and one-half pounds in eight short fillets, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  put in greased pan, and bake five minutes; drain off  water,  pour over one and one-half cups  Brown Sauce I.,  cover with one-half cup  buttered cracker crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

  Halibut à la Poulette.  A round platter containing slices of fish decorated with various garnishes.  
   Halibut à la Poulette. 

  A slice of  halibut,  weighing 1 1/2 lbs. 
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Clean  fish  and cut in eight fillets. Add seasonings to  melted butter,  and put dish containing  butter  in saucepan of  hot water  to keep  butter  melted. Take up each fillet separately with a fork, dip in  butter,  roll, and fasten with a small wooden  skewer.  Put in shallow pan, dredge with  flour,  and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Remove 
 
 

 skewers,  arrange on platter for serving, pour around one and one-half cups  Béchamel Sauce,  and garnish with  yolks of two hard boiled eggs  rubbed through a strainer,  whites  of  hard boiled eggs  cut in  s,  lemon  cut fan-shaped, and  parsley.   

   Halibut à la Rarebit. 

Sprinkle two small slices  halibut  with  salt  and  pepper,  brush over with  melted butter,  place in  dripping-pan  on greased  fish-sheet,  and bake twelve minutes. Remove to hot platter for serving, and pour over it a  Welsh Rarebit.   

   Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut. 

Cut  chicken halibut  in thin fillets. Put together in pairs, with  Fish or Chicken Force-meat  between, first dipping fillets in  melted butter  seasoned with  salt  and  pepper  and brushing over with  lemon juice.  Place in shallow pan with one-fourth cup  white wine.  Bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Arrange on hot platter for serving, sprinkle with finely chopped  parsley,  garnish with  Tomato Jelly,  and serve with  Hollandaise Sauce.   

   Fried Cod Steaks. 

Clean  steaks,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dip in  granulated corn meal.  Try out slices of  fat salt pork  in frying-pan, remove scraps, and sauté  steaks  in  fat.   

   Fried Smelts. 

Clean  smelts,  leaving on heads and tails. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and fry three to four minutes in deep  fat.  As soon as  smelts  are put into  fat,  remove  fat  to back of range so that they may not become too brown before cooked through. Arrange on hot platter, garnish with  parsley,   lemon,  and  fried gelatine.  Serve with  Sauce Tartare.   
 
 

  Various ways of skewering smelts.  Eight small fish arranged on a board. Two have been skewered into an S-shape, two are skewered into rings, and two more have been sliced open lengthwise before being skewered into a tubelike shape. One fish remains untouched, and one has been sliced open lengthwise but not skewered.  
  Smelts  are fried without being skewered, but often are skewered in variety of shapes.  

   To fry gelatine. 

Take up a handful and drop in hot, deep  fat;  it will immediately swell and become white; it should at once be removed with a  skimmer,  then drained.  Phosphated or granulated  gelatine  cannot be used for frying.  

   Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder. 

Clean  fish  and cut in long or short fillets. If cut in long fillets, roll and fasten with  skewers.  Sprinkle fillets with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Serve with  Sauce Tartare.   

   Fried Eels. 

Clean  eels,  and cut in two-inch pieces. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  corn meal,  and sauté in  pork fat.   

   Fried Stuffed Smelts. 

 Smelts  are stuffed as for Baked Stuffed Smelts, dipped in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fried in deep  fat,  and served with  Sauce Tartare.   

 

   Fried Shad Roe. 

Parboil and cook  shad roe  as for Baked Shad Roe. Cut in pieces, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and brush over with  lemon juice.  Dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Soft-shell Crabs. 

Clean  crabs,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Being light they will rise to top of  fat,  and should be turned while frying.  Soft-shell crabs  are usually fried.  

   To Clean a Crab. 

Lift and fold back the tapering points which are found on each side of the back shell, and remove spongy substance that lies under them. Turn  crab  on its back, and with a pointed knife remove the small piece at lower part of shell, which terminates in a point; this is called the apron.  

   Frogs' Hind Legs. 

Trim and clean. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, then fry three minutes in  deep fat,  and drain. If used as an entrée, serve with  Sauce Tartare.   

 
 Terrapin. 
   To prepare terrapin for cooking, 

plunge into  boiling water  and boil five minutes. Lift out of  water  with  skimmer,  and remove skin from feet and tail by rubbing with a towel. Draw out head with a  skewer  and rub off skin.  

   To Cook Terrapin. 

Put in a kettle, cover with  boiling salted water,  add two slices each of  carrot  and  onion,  and a stalk of  celery.  Cook until meat is tender, which may be determined by pressing feet-meat between thumb and finger. The time required will be from thirty-five to forty minutes. Remove from  water,  cool, draw out nails from  feet,  cut under shell close to upper shell and remove. 
 
 

Empty upper shell and carefully remove and discard bags, and thick, heavy part of intestines. Any of the gall-bladder would give bitter flavor to the dish. The  liver,   small intestines,  and  eggs  are used with the meat.  

   Washington Terrapin. 

  1  terrapin.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  cream.  
 1/2 cup  chopped mushrooms.  
  Salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 2  eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  Sherry wine.  
 
  Melt the  butter,  add  flour,  and pour on slowly the  cream.  Add  terrapin meat  with  bones  cut in pieces,  entrails  cut smaller,  liver  separated in pieces,  eggs of terrapin,  and  mushrooms.  Season with  salt  and  cayenne.  Just before serving, add  eggs  slightly beaten and two tablespoons  Sherry wine.   

   Terrapin à la Baltimore. 

  1  terrapin.  
 3/4 cup  Chicken Stock.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  wine.  
  Cayenne.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 
  To  stock  and  wine  add  terrapin meat,  with  bones  cut in pieces and  entrails  cut in smaller pieces; then cook slowly until liquor is reduced one-half. Add  liver  separated in pieces,  eggs,   butter,   salt,   pepper,  and  cayenne.   

   Terrapin à la Maryland. 

Add to  Terrapin à la Baltimore  one tablespoon each  butter  and  flour  creamed together, one-half cup  cream,   yolks two eggs  slightly beaten, and one teaspoon  lemon juice;  then add, just before serving, one tablespoon  Sherry wine.  Pour in a deep dish and garnish with  toast or puff paste points.   

 
 
 
 

 WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH. 
   Fish à la Crême. 

  1 3/4 cups  cold flaked fish  ( cod,   haddock,   halibut,  or  cusk ). 
 1 cup  White Sauce I.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 1/2 slice  onion.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 1/2 cup  buttered cracker crumbs.  
 
  Scald  milk,  for the making of  White Sauce,  with  bay leaf,   parsley,  and  onion.  Cover the bottom of small buttered platter with one-half of the  fish,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and pour over one-half the  sauce;  repeat. Cover with  crumbs,  and bake in hot oven until  crumbs  are brown. Fish à la Crême, baked in  scallop shells,  makes an attractive luncheon dish, or may be served for a  fish  course at dinner.  

   Turban of Fish. 

  2 1/2 cups  cold flaked fish  ( cod,   haddock,   halibut,  or  cusk ). 
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 Blade of  mace.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
  Lemon juice.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 2/3 cup  buttered cracker crumbs.  
 
  Scald  milk  with  onion,   mace,  and  parsley;  remove seasonings. Melt  butter,  add  flour,   salt,   pepper,  and gradually the  milk;  then add  eggs,  slightly beaten. Put a layer of  fish  on buttered dish, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and add a few drops of  lemon juice.  Cover with  sauce,  continuing until  fish  and  sauce  are used, shaping in pyramid form. Cover with  crumbs,  and bake in hot oven until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Fish Hash. 

Take equal parts of  cold flaked fish  and  cold boiled potatoes  finely chopped. Season with  salt  and  pepper.  
 
 

Try out  fat salt pork,  remove scraps, leaving enough  fat  in pan to moisten  fish  and  potatoes.  Put in  fish  and  potatoes,  stir until heated, then cook until well browned underneath; fold and turn like and omelet.  

   Fish Croquettes. 

To two cups  cold flaked halibut  or  salmon  add one cup  Thick White Sauce.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  and spread on a plate to cool. Shape, roll in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and fry in deep  fat;  drain, arrange on hot dish for serving, and garnish with  parsley.  If  salmon  is used, add  lemon juice  and finely chopped  parsley.   

   Scalloped Cod. 

Line a buttered baking-dish with  cold flaked cod,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  cover with a layer of  oysters  (first dipped in  melted butter,  seasoned with  onion juice,   lemon juice,  and a few grains of  cayenne,  and then in  cracker crumbs ), add two tablespoons  oyster liquor;  repeat, and cover with  buttered cracker crumbs.  Bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Serve with  Egg or Hollandaise Sauce I.   

   Salmon Box. 

Line a bread pan, slightly buttered, with  warm steamed rice.  Fill the centre with  cold boiled salmon,  flaked, and seasoned with  salt,   pepper,  and a slight grating of  nutmeg.  Cover with  rice,  and steam one hour. Turn on a hot platter for serving, and pour around  Egg Sauce II.   

 
 
 WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH. 
   Creamed Salt Codfish. 

Pick  salt codfish  in pieces, and soak in  lukewarm water,  the time depending upon hardness and saltness of the  fish.  Drain, and add one cup  Thin White Sauce.  Add one beaten  egg  just before sending to table. Garnish 
 
 

with slices of  hard boiled eggs.  Creamed Codfish is better made with  cream  slightly thickened in place of  Thin White Sauce.   

   Fish Balls. 

  1 cup  salt codfish.  
 2 heaping cups  potatoes.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Wash  fish  in  cold water,  and pick in very small pieces, or cut, using scissors. Wash, pare, and soak  potatoes,  cutting in pieces of uniform size before measuring. Cook  fish  and  potatoes  in  boiling water  to cover until  potatoes  are soft. Drain through strainer, return to kettle in which they were cooked, mash thoroughly (being sure there are no lumps left in  potato ), add  butter,   egg  well beaten, and  pepper.  Beat with a fork two minutes. Add  salt  if necessary. Take up by spoonfuls, put in  frying-basket,  and fry one minute in deep  fat,  allowing six fish balls for each frying; drain on brown paper. Reheat the  fat  after each frying.  

   Salted Codfish Hash. 

Prepare as for Fish Balls, omitting egg. Try out  fat salt pork,  remove scraps, leaving enough  fat  in pan to moisten  fish  and  potatoes.  Put in  fish  and  potatoes,  stir until heated, then cook until well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.  

   Toasted Salt Fish. 

Pick  salt codfish  in long thin  s. If very  salt,  it may need to be freshened by standing for a short time in  lukewarm water.  Place on a greased  wire broiler,  and broil until brown on one side; turn, and brown the other. Remove to platter, and spread with  butter.   

   Baked Finnan Haddie. 

Put  fish  in  dripping-pan,  surround with  milk  and  water  in equal proportions, place on back of range where 
 
 

it will heat slowly. Let stand twenty-five minutes; pour off liquid, spread with  butter,  and bake twenty-five minutes.  

   Broiled Finnan Haddie. 

Broil in a greased  broiler  until brown on both sides. Remove to a pan, and cover with  hot water;  let stand ten minutes, drain, and place on a platter. Spread with  butter,  and sprinkle with  pepper.   

 
 
 WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH. 
   Oysters on the Half Shell. 

Serve  oysters  on deep halves of the  shells,  allowing six to each person. Arrange on plates of  crushed ice,  with one-fourth of a  lemon  in the centre of each plate.  

   Raw Oysters. 

 Raw oysters  are served on  oyster plates,  or in a  block of ice.  Place block of ice on a folded napkin on platter, and garnish the base with  parsley  and quarters of  lemon,  or  ferns  and  lemons.   

   To Block Ice for Oysters. 

Use a rectangular piece of clear  ice,  and with hot  flatirons  melt a cavity large enough to hold the  oysters.  Pour water from cavity as rapidly as it forms.  

   Panned Oysters.  

Clean one pint large  oysters.  Place in  dripping-pan  small oblong pieces of  toast,  put an  oyster  on each piece, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and bake until  oysters  are plump. Serve with  Lemon Butter.   

   Lemon Butter. 

Cream three tablespoons  butter,  add one-half teaspoon  salt,  one tablespoon  lemon juice,  and a few grains of  cayenne.   

   Fancy Roast. 

Clean one pint  oysters  and drain from their liquor. Put in a  stewpan  and cook until  oysters  are plump and edges 
 
 

begin to curl. Shake pan to prevent  oysters  from adhering to pan, or stir with a fork. Season with  salt,   pepper,  and two tablespoons  butter,  and pour over four small slices of toast. Garnish with  toast points  and  parsley.   

   Oyster Fricassee. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
  Milk  or  cream.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  finely chopped parsley.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Clean  oysters,  heat  oyster liquor  to boiling point and strain through double thickness of  cheese cloth;  add  oysters  to liquor and cook until plump. Remove  oysters  with  skimmer  and add enough  cream  to liquor to make a cupful. Melt  butter,  add  flour,  and pour on gradually hot liquid; add  salt,   cayenne,   parsley,   oysters,  and  egg  slightly beaten.  

   Creamed Oysters. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 1 1/2 cups  White Sauce II.  
 1/8 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 
  Clean, and cook  oysters  until plump and edges begin to curl; drain, and add to  White Sauce  seasoned with  celery salt.  Serve on  toast,  in  timbale cases,   patty shells,  or  vol-au-vents.  One-fourth cup  sliced mushrooms  are often added to Creamed Oysters.  

   Oysters in Brown Sauce. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  oyster liquor.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  Anchovy essence.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Parboil and drain  oysters,  reserve liquor, heat, strain, and set aside for sauce. Brown  butter,  add  flour,  and stir until well browned; then add  oyster liquor,   milk,  seasonings, and  oysters.  For filling  patty cases  or  vol-au-vents.   

 

   Broiled Oysters. 

  1 pint selected  oysters.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 2/3 cup  seasoned cracker crumbs.  
 
  Clean  oysters  and dry between towels. Lift with plated fork by the tough muscle and dip in  butter,  then in  cracker crumbs  which have been seasoned with  salt  and  pepper.  Place in a buttered  wire broiler  and broil over a clear fire until juices flow, turning while broiling. Serve with or without  Maître d'Hôtel Butter.   

   Oyster Toast. 

Serve  Broiled Oysters  on small pieces of  Milk Toast.  Sprinkle with finely chopped  celery.   

   Oysters and Macaroni. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 3/4 cups  macaroni  broken in 1 inch pieces. 
  Salt  and  pepper.  
  Flour.  
 1/2 cup  buttered crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 
  Cook  macaroni  in  boiling salted water  until soft; drain, and rinse with  cold water.  Put a layer in bottom of a buttered  pudding-dish,  cover with  oysters,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and dot over with one-half of the  butter;  repeat, and cover with  buttered crumbs.  Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.  

   Scalloped Oysters. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 4 tablespoons  oyster liquor.  
 2 tablespoons  milk  or  cream.  
 1/2 cup  stale bread crumbs.  
 1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/2 cup  melted butter.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Mix  bread  and  cracker crumbs,  and stir in  butter.  Put a thin layer in bottom of a buttered shallow baking-dish, cover with  oysters,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper;  add one-half each of  oyster liquor  and  cream.  Repeat, and 
 
 

cover top with remaining  crumbs.  Bake thirty minutes in hot oven. Never allow more than two layers of  oysters  for Scalloped Oysters; if three layers are used, the middle layer will be underdone, while others are properly cooked. A sprinkling of  mace  or grated  nutmeg  to each layer is considered by many an improvement.  Sherry wine  may be used in place of  cream.   

   Sautéd Oysters. 

Clean one pint  oysters,  sprinkle on both sides with  salt  and  pepper.  Take up by the tough muscle with plated fork and dip in  cracker crumbs.  Put two tablespoons  butter  in hot frying-pan, add  oysters,  brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other.  

   Fried Oysters. 

Clean, and dry between towels, selected  oysters.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  flour,   egg,  and  cracker  or  stale bread crumbs,  and fry in deep  fat.  Drain on brown paper and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish with  parsley  and serve with or without  Sauce Tyrolienne.   

   Fried Oysters in Batter. 

Clean, and dry between towels, selected  oysters.  Dip in batter, fry in deep  fat,  drain, and serve on a folded napkin; garnish with  lemon  and  parsley.   

   Batter. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1 cup  bread flour.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 
  Beat  eggs  until light, add  salt  and  pepper.  Add  milk  slowly to  flour,  stir until smooth and well mixed. Combine mixtures.  

   Little Neck Clams. 

 Little Neck Clams  are served raw on the half  shell,  in same manner as raw oysters.  

 

   Steamed Clams. 

 Clams  for steaming should be bought in the shell and always be alive. Wash  clams  thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, changing the  water  several times. Put into a large kettle, allowing one-half cup  hot water  to four quarts  clams;  cover closely and steam until shells partially open, care being taken that they are not overdone. Serve with individual dishes of  melted butter.  Some prefer a few drops of  lemon juice  or  vinegar  added to the  butter.  If a small quantity of  boiling water  is put into the dishes, the  melted butter  will float on top and remain hot much longer.  

   Roasted Clams. 

Roasted clams are served at Clam Bakes.  Clams  are washed in  sea-water,  placed on stones which have been previously heated by burning wood on them, ashes removed, and stones sprinkled with thin layer of  seaweed.   Clams  are piled on stones, covered with seaweed, and a piece of canvas thrown over them to retain the steam.  

   Fried Scallops. 

Clean one quart  scallops,  add one and one-half cups  boiling water,  and let stand two minutes; drain, and dry between towels. Season with  salt  and  pepper,  roll in  fine cracker crumbs,  dip in  egg,  again in  crumbs,  and fry two minutes in deep  fat;  then drain on brown paper.  

   Plain Lobster. 

Remove  lobster meat  from shell, arrange on platter, and garnish with  small claws.  If two  lobsters  are opened, stand  tail shells  (put together) in centre of platter, and arrange meat around them.  

   Fried Lobster. 

Remove  lobster meat  from shell. Use  tail meat,  divided in fourths, and large pieces of  claw meat.  Sprinkle with 
 
 

 salt,   pepper,  and  lemon juice;  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and again in  crumbs;  fry in deep  fat,  drain, and serve with  Sauce Tartare.   

   Buttered Lobster. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
  Lemon juice.  
 
  Remove  lobster meat  from shell and chop slightly. Melt  butter,  add  lobster,  and when heated, season and serve garnished with  lobster claws.   

  Scalloped Lobster.  A lobster tail filled with scalloped lobster served on a round plate.  
   Scalloped Lobster. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 1 1/2 cups  White Sauce II.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Remove  lobster meat  from shell and cut in cubes. Heat in  White Sauce  and add seasonings. Refill  lobster shells,  cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown. To prevent  lobster shells  from curling over  lobster  while baking, insert small wooden  skewers  of sufficient length to keep shell in its original shape. To assist in preserving color of shell, brush over with  olive oil  before 
 
 

putting into oven. Scalloped  lobster  may be baked in buttered  scallop shells,  or in a buttered baking-dish.  

   Devilled Lobster. 

 Scalloped lobster  highly seasoned is served as Devilled Lobster. Use larger proportions of same  seasonings,  with the addition of  mustard.   

   Curried Lobster. 

Prepare as Scalloped Lobster, adding to  flour  one-half teaspoon  curry powder  when making  White Sauce.   

   Lobster Farci. 

  1 cup chopped  lobster meat.  
  Yolks 2 hard boiled eggs.  
 1/2 tablespoon  chopped parsley.  
 1 cup  White Sauce I.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 1/3 cup  buttered crumbs.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  To  lobster meat  add  yolks of eggs  rubbed to a paste,  parsley,   sauce,  and  seasonings  to taste. Fill  lobster shells,  cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Stuffed Lobster à la Béchamel. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 1 teaspoon chopped  parsley.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  buttered crumbs.  
 
  Remove  lobster meat  from shell and cut in dice. Scald  milk  with  bay leaf,  remove  bay leaf  and make a  White Sauce  of  butter,   flour,  and  milk;  add  salt,   cayenne,   nutmeg,   parsley,   yolks of eggs  slightly beaten, and  lemon juice.  Add  lobster  dice, refill  shells,  cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  One-half  chicken stock  and one-half  cream  may be used for sauce if a richer dish is desired.   

 

   Broiled Live Lobster. 

Live  lobsters  may be dressed for broiling at market, or may be done at home. Clean  lobster  and place in a buttered  wire broiler.  Broil eight minutes on flesh side, turn and broil six minutes on shell side. Serve with  melted butter.   Lobsters  taste nearly the same when placed in  dripping-pan  and baked fifteen minutes in hot oven, and are much easier cooked.  

   To Split a Live Lobster. 

Cross large claws and hold firmly with left hand. With sharp-pointed knife, held in right hand, begin at the mouth and make a deep incision, and, with a sharp cut, draw the knife quickly through body and entire length of tail. Open  lobster,  remove intestinal vein, liver, and stomach, and crack claw shells with a mallet.  

   Lobster à l'Américaine. 

Split a  live lobster  and put in a large  omelet pan,  sprinkle with one-fourth  onion  finely chopped and a few grains of  cayenne,  and cook five minutes. Add one-half cup  Tomato Sauce II.  and cook three minutes; then add two tablespoons  sherry wine,  cover, and cook in oven seven minutes. To the  liver  add one tablespoon  wine,  two tablespoons  Tomato Sauce,  and one-half tablespoon  melted butter;  heat in pan after  lobster  has been removed. As soon as sauce is heated, strain, and pour over  lobster.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XII. 
 BEEF. 
 MEAT is the name applied to the flesh of all animals used for food. Beef is the meat of steer, ox, or cow, and is the most nutritious and largely consumed of all animal foods. Meat is chiefly composed of the albuminoids (fibrin, albumen, gelatin), fat, mineral matter, and water. 
   Fibrin   is that substance in blood which causes it to coagulate when shed. It consists of innumerable delicate fibrils which entangle the blood corpuscles, and form with them a mass called blood clot. Fibrin is insoluble in both cold and hot water.  
  Albumen   is a substance found in the blood and muscle. It is soluble in cold water, and is coagulated by hot water or heat. It begins to coagulate at 134° F. and becomes solid at 160° F. Here lies the necessity of cooking meat in hot water at a low temperature; of broiling meat at a high temperature, to quickly sear surface.  
  Gelatin   in its raw state is termed  collagen.  It is a transparent, tasteless substance, obtained by boiling with water, muscle, skin, cartilage, bone, tendon, ligament, or membrane of animals. By this process, collagen of connective tissues is dissolved and converted into gelatin. Gelatin is insoluble in cold water, soluble in hot water, but in boiling water is decomposed, and by much boiling will not solidify on cooling. When subjected to cold water it swells, and is called hydrated gelatin. Myosin is the albuminoid of muscle, collagen of tendons, ossein of bones, and chondrin of cartilage and gristle.  
 
 
 

 Gelatin, although highly nitrogenous, does not act in the system as other nitrogenous foods, as a large quantity passes out unchanged. In combination with albumen it has a food value. 
   Fat   is the white or yellowish oily solid substance forming the chief part of the adipose tissue. Fat is found in thick layers directly under the skin, in other parts of the body, in bone, and is intermingled throughout the flesh. Fat as food is a great heat-giver and force-producer.   Suet   is the name given to fat which lies about the loins and kidneys. Beef suet tried out and clarified is much used in cookery for shortening and frying.  
 
  Mineral Matter.  The largest amount of mineral matter is found in bone. It is principally calcium phosphate (phosphate of lime). Sodium chloride (common salt) is found in the blood and throughout the tissues.   Water  abounds in all animals, constituting a large percentage of their weight.  The color of meat is due to the coloring matter (hÆmoglobin) which abounds in the red corpuscles of the blood.  The distinctive flavor of meat is principally due to peptones and allied substances, and is intensified by the presence of sodium chloride and other salts.  The beef creature is divided by splitting through the backbone in two parts, each part being called  a side of beef.  Four hundred and fifty pounds is good market weight for a side of beef.  The most expensive cuts come from that part of the creature where muscles are but little used, which makes the meat finer grained and consequently more tender, taking less time for cooking. Many of the cheapest cuts, though equally nutritious, need long, slow cooking to render them tender enough to digest easily. Tough meat which has long and coarse fibres is often found to be very juicy, on account of the greater motion of that part of the creature, which causes the juices to flow freely. Roasting and broiling, which develop so fine a flavor, can only be applied to the more expensive cut s. The liver, kidneys, and heart 
 
 

are of firm, close texture, and difficult of digestion. Tripe, which is the first stomach of the ox, is easy of digestion, but on account of the large amount of fat which it contains, it is undesirable for those of weak digestion. 
  1. First cut rib. 2. Tip of sirloin. 3. First five ribs.  An illustration of three different cuts of beef. The caption identifies each cut in order from left to right.  
 The quality of beef depends on age of the creature and manner of feeding. The best beef is obtained from a steer of four or five years. Good beef should be firm and of fine-grained texture, bright red in color, and well mottled and coated with fat. The fat should be firm, and of a yellowish color. Suet should be dry, and crumble easily. Beef should not be eaten as soon as killed, but allowed to hang and ripen,--from two to three weeks in winter, and two weeks in summer.  Meat should be removed from paper as soon as it comes from market, otherwise paper absorbs some of the juices.  Meat should be kept in a cool place. In winter, beef may be bought in large quantities and cut as needed. If one chooses, a loin or rump may be bought and kept by the butcher, who sends cuts as ordered.  Always wipe beef, before cooking, with a  cheese cloth  wrung out of cold water, but never allow it to stand in a pan of cold water, as juices will be drawn out. 
  
 
 

 DIVISION AND WAYS OF COOKING A SIDE OF BEEF. 
 
 HIND-QUARTER. 
 
 DIVISIONS. 
 WAYS OF COOKING. 
 
 
 Flank (thick and boneless).................... 
 Stuffed, rolled and braised, or corned and boiled. 
 
 
 Round..................... 
 { 
 Aitchbone.......... 
 Cheap roast, beef stew, or braised. 
 
 
 { 
 Top................ 
 Steaks, best cuts for beef tea. 
 
 
 { 
 Lower Part......... 
 Hamburg steaks, curry of beef, and cecils. 
 
 
 { 
 Vein............... 
 Steaks. 
 
 
 Rump....................... 
 { 
 Back............... 
 Choicest large roasts and cross-cut steaks. 
 
 
 { 
 Middle............. 
 Roasts. 
 
 
 { 
 Face...................... 
 Inferior roasts and stews. 
 
 
 Loin....................... 
 { 
 Tip................ 
 Extra fine roasts. 
 
 
 { 
 Middle............. 
 Sirloin and porterhouse steaks. 
 
 
 { 
 First Cut.......... 
 Steaks and roast. 
 
 
 The Tenderloin............. 
 { 
 Sold as a Fillet 
 } 
 Larded and roasted, or broiled. 
 
 
 { 
 or cut in Steaks 
 } 
 
 
 Hind-shin.......................... 
 Cheap stew or soup stock. 
 
 FORE-QUARTER. 
 
 Five Prime Ribs.................... 
 Good Roast. 
 
 
 Five Chuck Ribs.................... 
 Small steaks and stews. 
 
 
 Neck............................... 
 Hamburg steaks. 
 
 
 Sticking-Piece..................... 
 Mincemeat. 
 
 
 Rattle Rand.... 
 { 
 Thick End 
 } 
 Corned for boiling. 
 
 
 { 
 Second Cut 
 } 
 
 
 { 
 Thin End 
 } 
 
 
 Brisket......... 
 { 
 Navel End 
 } 
 Finest pieces for corning. 
 
 
 { 
 Butt End or 
 } 
 
 
 { 
 Fancy Brisket 
 } 
 
 
 Fore-shin....................... 
 Soup stocks and stews. 
  
 
  
 
 

 Other Parts of Beef Creature used for Food. 
 
 
 BRAINS........................ 
 Stewed, scalloped dishes, or croquettes. 
 
 
 TONGUE........................ 
 Boiled or braised, fresh or corned. 
 
 
 HEART......................... 
 Stuffed and braised. 
 
 
 LIVER......................... 
 Broiled or fried. 
 
 
 KIDNEYS....................... 
 Stewed or sautéd. 
 
 
 TAIL.......................... 
 Soup. 
 
 
 SUET (kidney suet is the best). 
  
 
 
 TRIPE......................... 
 Lyonnaise, broiled, or fried in batter. 
  
 
  1. Aitchbone. 2. A rump from which cross-cut steaks have been cut. 3. A loin from which to cut porterhouse steaks.  a.  Sirloin.  b.  Tenderloin.  c.  Kidney-suet.  An illustration of three different cuts of beef. The caption identifies each cut in order from left to right, as well as labeling in more detail the parts of the cut furthest to the right.  
 
 The Effect of Different Temperatures on the Cooking of Meat. 
 By putting meat in cold water and allowing water to heat gradually, a large amount of juice is extracted and meat is tasteless; and by long cooking the connective tissues are softened and dissolved, which gives to the stock when cold a jelly-like consistency. This principle applies to soup-making.  By putting meat in boiling water, allowing the water to boil for a few minutes, then lowering the temperature, juices in the outer surface are quickly coagulated, and the inner juices are prevented from escaping. This principle applies where nutriment and flavor is desired in meat. Examples: Boiled mutton, fowl.  
 
 

 By putting in cold water, bringing quickly to the boiling point, then lowering the temperature and cooking slowly until meat is tender, some of the goodness will be in the stock, but a large portion left in the meat. Examples: Fowl, when cooked to use for made-over dishes, Scotch Broth.  
  1. Butcher's saw. 2. Round of beef from which slices have been removed. 3. Butcher's large knife. 4. Cleaver. 5. Round of beef. 6. Butcher's boning knife.  a.  Top of round.  b.  Lower part of round.  c.  Vein.  d.  Marrow-bone.  An illustration of butcher's implements arranged in front of two rounds of beef, labeled with the numbers 1-6 and the letters A-D. The caption provides the corresponding description of what each number is labeling.  
  
 
 

 TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF MEATS. 
 
 
 Articles. 
 Refuse. 
 Proteid. 
 Fat. 
 Mineral matter. 
 Water. 
 
 
 BEEF. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Fore-quarter...... 
 19.8 
 14.1 
 16.1 
 .7 
 49.3 
 
 
 Hind-quarter...... 
 16.3 
 15.3 
 15.6 
 .8 
 52. 
 
 
 Round............. 
 8.5 
 18.7 
 8.8 
 1. 
 63. 
 
 
 Rump.............. 
 18.5 
 14.4 
 19. 
 .8 
 47.3 
 
 
 Loin.............. 
 12.6 
 15.9 
 17.3 
 .9 
 53.3 
 
 
 Ribs.............. 
 20.2 
 13.6 
 20.6 
 .7 
 44.9 
 
 
 Chuck ribs........ 
 13.3 
 15. 
 20.8 
 .8 
 50.1 
 
 
 Tongue............ 
 15.1 
 14.8 
 15.3 
 .9 
 53.9 
 
 
 Heart............. 
  
 16. 
 20.4 
 1. 
 62.6 
 
 
  
 Carbohydrates. 
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Kidney............ 
 .4 
 16.9 
 4.8 
 1.2 
 76.7 
 
 
 Liver............. 
 1.8 
 21.6 
 5.4 
 1.4 
 69.8 
 
 
 MUTTON. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Hind-quarter...... 
 16.7 
 13.5 
 23.5 
 .7 
 45.6 
 
 
 Fore-quarter...... 
 21.1 
 11.9 
 25.7 
 .7 
 40.6 
 
 
 Leg............... 
 17.4 
 15.1 
 14.5 
 .8 
 52.2 
 
 
 Loin.............. 
 14.2 
 12.8 
 31.9 
 .6 
 40.5 
 
 
 VEAL. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Fore-quarter...... 
 24.5 
 14.6 
 6. 
 .7 
 54.2 
 
 
 Hind-quarter...... 
 20.7 
 15.7 
 6.6 
 .8 
 56.2 
 
 
 Leg............... 
 10.5 
 18.5 
 5. 
 1. 
 65. 

 
 
 Sweetbreads....... 
  
 15.4 
 12.1 
 1.6 
 70.9 
 
 
 PORK. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Loin of pork...... 
 16. 
 13.5 
 27.5 
 .7 
 42.3 
 
 
 Ham, smoked....... 
 12.7 
 14.1 
 33.2 
 4.1 
 35.9 
 
 
 Salt pork......... 
 8.1 
 6.5 
 66.8 
 2.7 
 15.9 
 
 
 Bacon............. 
 8.1 
 9.6 
 60.2 
 4.3 
 17.8 
 
 
 POULTRY. 
  
  
  
  
  
 
 
 Chicken........... 
 34.8 
 14.8 
 1.1 
 .8 
 48.5 
 
 
 Fowl.............. 
 30. 
 13.4 
 10.2 
 .8 
 45.6 
 
 
 Turkey............ 
 22.7 
 15.7 
 18.4 
 .8 
 42.4 
 
 
 Goose............. 
 22.2 
 10.3 
 33.8 
 .6 
 33.1 
  
 W. O. Atwater, Ph.D.  
 
 

 
 Broiled Beefsteak. 
 The best cuts of beef for broiling are, porterhouse, sirloin, cross-cut of rump steaks, and second and third cuts from top of round. Porterhouse and sirloin cuts are the most expensive, on account of the great loss in bone and fat, although price per pound is about the same as for cross-cut of rump. Round steak is very juicy, but, having coarser fibre, is not as tender. Steaks should be cut at least an inch thick, and from that to one and one-
  1. Rump cut next to round. 2. Rump cut next to loin.  An illustration of two different cuts of beef. The caption identifies both cuts in order from left to right.  
half inches. The flank end of sirloin steak should be removed before cooking. It may be put in  soup kettle,  or lean part may be chopped and utilized for meat cakes; fat tried out and clarified for shortening. 
   To Broil Steak. 

Wipe with a cloth wrung out of  cold water,  and trim off superfluous  fat.  With some of the  fat  grease a  wire broiler,  place meat in  broiler  (having  fat  edge next to handle), and broil over a clear fire, turning every ten seconds for the first minute, that surface may be well seared, thus preventing escape of juices. After the first minute, turn occasionally until well cooked on both sides.  Steak  cut one inch thick will take five minutes, if liked rare; six minutes, if well done. Remove to hot platter, spread with  butter,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.   

 
 
 

   Beefsteak with Maître d'Hôtel Butter. 

Serve  Broiled Steak  with  Maître d'Hôtel Butter.   

   Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce. 

Serve  broiled Porterhouse Steak  with  Mushroom Sauce.   

   Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce. 

Serve  broiled Porterhouse Steak  with  Tomato and Mushroom Sauce.   

   Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket. 

Wipe a  sirloin steak,  cut one and one-half inches thick, broil five minutes, and then remove to platter. Spread with  butter  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.  Clean one pint  oysters,  cover  steak  with same, sprinkle  oysters  with  salt  and  pepper  and dot over with  butter.  Place on grate in hot oven, and cook until  oysters  are plump.  

   Broiled Fillets of Beef. 

Slices cut from the  tenderloin  are called sliced  fillets of beef.  Wipe sliced fillets, place in greased  broiler,  and broil four or five minutes over a clear fire. These may be served with  Maître d'Hôtel Butter  or  Mushroom Sauce.   

   Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée. 

Shape slices of  tenderloin,  one inch thick, in circular pieces. Broil five minutes. Spread with  butter,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.  Arrange on platter around a mound of  Chestnut Purée.   

   Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro. 

Wipe and sauté small  fillets  in hot  omelet pan.  Arrange in a circle on platter with cock's-comb shaped croûtons between, and pour  sauce  in the centre. Serve as a luncheon dish with  Brussels Sprouts  or  String Beans.   

 

   Sautéd mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trianon. 

Wipe and sauté small  fillets  in hot  omelet pan.  Arrange in a circle around a mound of  fried potato balls  sprinkled with  parsley.  Put  Sauce Trianon  on each fillet.  

   Broiled Meat Cakes. 

Chop finely  lean raw beef,  season with  salt  and  pepper,  shape in small flat cakes, and broil in a greased  broiler  or frying-pan. Spread with  butter,  or serve with  Maître d'Hôtel Butter.  In forming the cakes, handle as little as possible; for if pressed too compactly, cakes will be found solid.  

   Hamburg Steaks. 

Chop finely one pound  lean raw beef;  season highly with  salt,   pepper,  and a few drops  onion juice  or one-half  shallot  finely chopped. Shape, cook, and serve as Meat Cakes. A few gratings of  nutmeg  and one  egg  slightly beaten may be added.  

   Cannelon of Beef. 

  2 lbs.  lean beef, cut from round.  
  Grated rind 1/2 lemon.  
 1 tablespoon  finely chopped parsley.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  onion juice.  
 2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Chop meat finely, and add remaining ingredients in order given. Shape in a roll six inches long, wrap in buttered paper, place on rack in  dripping-pan,  and bake thirty minutes. Baste every five minutes with one-fourth cup  butter,  melted in one cup  boiling water.  Serve with  Brown Mushroom Sauce I.   

 
 Roast Beef. 
 The best cuts of beef for roasting are: tip or middle of sirloin, back of rump, or first three ribs. Tip of sirloin 
 
 

roast is desirable for a small family. Back of rump makes a superior roast for a large family, and is more economical than sirloin. It is especially desirable where a large quantity of dish gravy is liked, for in carving, the meat juices follow the knife. Rib roasts contain more fat than either of the others, and are somewhat cheaper. 
   To Roast Beef. 

Wipe, put on a rack in  dripping-pan,  skin side down, rub over with  salt,  and dredge meat and pan with  flour.  Place in hot oven, that the surface may be quickly seared, thus preventing escape of inner juices. After  flour  in pan is browned, reduce heat, and baste with  fat  which has tried out; if meat is quite lean, it may be necessary to put trimmings of  fat  in pan. Baste every ten minutes; if this rule is followed, meat will be found more juicy. When meat is about half done, turn it over and dredge with  flour,  that skin side may be upper-most for final browning. For roasting, consult Time Table for Baking Meats, page 34.  If there is danger of  flour  burning in pan, add a small quantity of  water;  this, however, is not desirable, and seldom need be done if size of pan is adapted to size of  roast.   Beef  to be well roasted should be started in hot oven and heat decreased, so that when carved the slices will be red throughout, with a crisp layer of golden brown  fat  on the top.  Beef  roasted when temperature is so high that surface is hardened before heat can penetrate to the centre is most unsatisfactory.   Sirloin or rib roasts  may have the bones removed, and be rolled, skewered, and tied in shape.  Chicago Butt  is cut from the most tender part of back of  rump.  They are shipped from Chicago, our greatest  beef  centre, and if fresh and from a heavy creature, make excellent roasts at a small price.  

   Roast Beef Gravy. 

Remove some of the  fat  from pan, leaving three tablespoonfuls. Place on front of range, add three tablespoons  flour,  and stir until well browned. The  flour,  dredged and browned in pan, should give additional color to gravy. Add gradually one and one-half 
 
 

cups  boiling water,  cook five minutes, season with  salt  and  pepper,  and strain. If  flour  should burn in pan, gravy will be full of black particles.  

   To Carve a Roast of Beef. 

Have  roast  placed on platter, skin side up; with a pointed, thin-bladed, sharp knife cut a  sirloin or rib roast  in thin slices parallel to the ribs, and cut slices from  ribs.  If there is  tenderloin,  remove it from under the bone, and cut in thin slices across grain of meat. Carve back of  rump  in thin slices with the grain of  meat;  by so doing, some of the least tender muscle will be served with that which is tender. By cutting across grain of meat, the tenderest portion is sliced by itself, as is the less tender portion.  

 
   Yorkshire Pudding. 

  1 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
  Miss C. J. Wills.  
 
  Mix  salt  and  flour,  and add  milk  gradually to form a smooth paste; then add  eggs  beaten until very light. Cover bottom of hot pan with some of  beef fat  tried out from roast, pour mixture in pan one-half inch deep. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting after well risen, with some of the  fat  from pan in which meat is roasting. Cut in squares for serving. Bake, if preferred, in greased, hissing hot iron  gem pans.   

   Larded Fillet of Beef. 

The  tenderloin of beef  which lies under the loin and rump is called  fillet of beef.  The  fillet under the loin  is known as the  long fillet,  and when removed no porterhouse steaks can be cut; therefore it commands a higher price than the  short fillet lying under rump.  Two short fillets are often skewered together, and served in place of a long fillet.  Wipe, remove fat, veins, and any tendinous portions; 
 
 

skewer in shape, and lard upper side with grain of meat, following directions for larding on page 26. Place on a rack in small pan, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and put in bottom of pan small pieces of  pork.  Bake twenty to thirty minutes in hot oven, basting three times. Serve with  Mushroom, Figaro, or Horseradish Sauce I.   

   Braised Beef. 

  3 lbs.  beef from lower part of round or face of rump.  
 2 thin slices  fat salt pork.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
  Carrot,  ) 
  Turnip,  ) 1/4 cup each, cut in dice. 
  Onion,   ) 
  Celery,  ) 
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Try out  pork  and remove scraps. Wipe meat, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and brown entire surface in  pork fat.  When turning meat, avoid piercing with fork or  skewer,  which allows the inner juices to escape. Place on  trivet  in deep  granite pan  or in earthen  pudding-dish,  and surround with vegetables,  peppercorns,  and three cups  boiling water;  cover closely, and bake four hours in very slow oven, basting every half-hour, and turn after second hour. Throughout the cooking, the liquid should be kept below the boiling point. Serve with  Horseradish Sauce  or with  brown sauce made from liquor in pan.   

   Beef à la Mode. 

Insert twelve large  lardoons  in a four-pound piece of  beef cut from the round.  Make incisions for lardoons by running through the meat a large  skewer.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and brown the entire surface in  pork fat.  Put on a  trivet  in kettle, surround with one-third cup each  carrot,   turnip,   celery,  and  onion  cut in dice, sprig of  parsley,  bit of  bay leaf,  and  water  to half cover  meat.  Cover closely and cook slowly four hours, keeping liquor below the boiling point. Remove to hot platter. Strain liquor, thicken and season 
 
 

to serve as a  gravy.   When  beef  is similarly prepared (with exception of lardoons and vegetables), and cooked in smaller amount of  water,  it is called  Smothered Beef, or Pot Roast. 

   A  bean pot  (covered with a piece of buttered paper, tied firmly down) is the best utensil to use for a Pot Roast.  

   Dumplings.  

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  butter.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in  butter  with tips of fingers, add  milk  gradually, using a knife for mixing. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll out to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with  biscuit cutter,  first dipped in  flour.  Place closely together in a buttered  steamer,  put over kettle of  boiling water,  cover closely, and steam twelve minutes. A perforated tin  pie plate  may be used in place of  steamer.  A little more  milk  may be used in the mixture, when it may be taken up by spoonfuls, dropped and cooked on top of stew. In this case some of the liquid must be removed, that dumplings may rest on meat and potato, and not settle into liquid.  

   Beef Stew with Dumplings. 

   Aitchbone,  weighing 5 lbs. 
 4 cups  potatoes,  cut in 1/4 inch slices. 
  Turnip,  ) 2/3 cup each, cut in half-inch cubes. 
  Carrot,  ) 
 1/2 small  onion,  cut in thin slices. 
 1/4 cup  flour.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in one and one-half inch cubes, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dredge with  flour.  Cut some of the  fat  in small pieces and try out in frying-pan. Add meat and stir constantly, that the surface may be quickly seared; when well browned, put in kettle, and rinse frying-pan with  boiling water,  that none of the goodness may be lost. Add to meat 
 
 

remaining  fat,  and  bone  sawed in pieces; cover with  boiling water  and boil five minutes, then cook at a lower temperature until meat is tender (time required being about three hours). Add  carrot,   turnip,  and  onion,  with  salt  and  pepper  the last hour of cooking. Parboil  potatoes  five minutes, and add to stew fifteen minutes before taking from fire. Remove  bones,  large pieces of  fat,  and then skim. Thicken with one-fourth cup  flour,  diluted with enough  cold water  to pour easily. Pour in deep hot platter, and surround with  dumplings.   Remnants of roast beef  are usually made into a  beef  stew; the meat having been once cooked, there is no necessity of browning it. If  gravy  is left, it should be added to the stew.  

 
 Corned Beef. 
 Corned beef has but little nutritive value. It is used to give variety to our diet in summer, when fresh meats prove too stimulating. It is eaten by the workingman to give bulk to his food. The best pieces of corned beef are the rattle rand and fancy brisket. The fancy brisket commands a higher price and may be easily told from the rattle rand by the selvage on lower side and the absence of bones. The upper end of brisket (butt end) is thick and composed mostly of lean meat, the middle cut has more fat but is not well mixed, while the lower (navel end) has a large quantity of fat. The rattle rand contains a thick lean end; the second cut contains three distinct layers of meat and fat, and is considered the best cut by those who prefer meat well streaked with fat. The rattle rand has a thin end, which contains but one layer of lean meat and much fat, consequently is not a desirable piece. 
   To Boil Corned Beef. 

Wipe the meat and tie securely in shape, if this has not been already done at market. Put in kettle, cover with  cold water,  and bring slowly to boiling point. Boil five minutes, remove scum, and cook at a lower temperature until tender. Cool slightly in 
 
 

 water  in which it was cooked, remove to a dish, cover, and place on cover a weight, that meat may be well pressed. The  lean meat  and  fat  may be separated and put in alternate layers in a bread pan, then covered and pressed.  

 
   Boiled Dinner. 

A boiled dinner consists of warm unpressed  corned beef,  served with  cabbage,   beets,   turnips,   carrots,  and  potatoes.  After removing meat from  water,  skim off fat and cook vegetables (with exception of  beets,  which require a long time for cooking) in this  water.   Carrots  require a longer time for cooking than  cabbage  or  turnips.   Carrots  and  turnips,  if small, may be cooked whole; if large, cut in pieces.  Cabbage  and  beets  are served in separate dishes, other vegetables on same dish with meat.  

   Boiled Tongue. 

A  boiled corned tongue  is cooked the same as Boiled Corned Beef. If very salt, it should be soaked in  cold water  several hours, or over night, before cooking. Take from  water  when slightly cooled and remove skin.  

   Braised Tongue. 

A fresh  tongue  is necessary for braising. Put  tongue  in kettle, cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly two hours. Take  tongue  from  water  and remove skin and roots. Place in deep pan and surround with one-third cup each  carrot,   onion,  and  celery,  cut in dice, and one sprig  parsley;  then pour over four cups  sauce.  Cover closely, and bake two hours, turning after the first hour. Serve on platter and strain around the  sauce.   

   Sauce for Tongue. 

Brown one-fourth cup  butter,  add one-fourth cup  flour  and stir together until well browned. Add gradually four cups of  water  in which  tongue  was cooked. Season with  salt  and  pepper  and add one teaspoon  Worcestershire Sauce.  One and one-half cups 
 
 

 stewed and strained tomatoes  may be used in place of some of the  water.   

   Broiled Liver. 

Cover with  boiling water  slices of  liver  cut one-half inch thick, let stand five minutes to draw out the blood; drain, wipe, and remove the thin outside skin and veins. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  place in a greased  wire broiler  and broil five minutes, turning often. Remove to a hot platter, spread with  butter,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Liver and Bacon. 

Prepare as for Broiled  Liver,  cut in pieces for serving, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and fry in  bacon fat.  Serve with  bacon.   

   Bacon. 

Place thin slices of  bacon  (from which the rind has been removed) closely together in a  fine wire broiler;  place  broiler  over  dripping-pan  and bake in a hot oven until  bacon  is crisp and brown, turning once. Drain on brown paper. This is the nicest way of cooking  bacon.   Fat  which has been dripped into the pan should be poured out and used for frying  liver,   eggs,   potatoes,  etc.  

   Braised Liver. 

Skewer, tie in shape, and lard upper side of  calf's liver.  Place in deep pan, with  trimmings from lardoons;  surround with one-fourth cup each,  carrot,   onion,  and  celery,  cut in dice; one-fourth teaspoon  peppercorns,  two  cloves,  bit of  bay leaf,  and two cups  Brown Stock  or  water.  Cover closely and bake slowly two hours, uncovering the last twenty minutes. Remove from pan, strain liquor, and use liquor for the making of a  Brown Sauce  with one and one-half tablespoons  butter  and two tablespoons  flour.  Pour  sauce  around  liver  for serving.  

 

   Broiled Tripe. 

Fresh  honeycomb tripe  is best for broiling. Wipe  tripe  as dry as possible, dip in fine  cracker dust  and  olive oil  or  melted butter,  draining off all  fat  that is possible, and again dip in  cracker dust.  Place in a greased  broiler  and broil five minutes, cooking smooth side of  tripe  the first three minutes. Place on a hot platter, honeycomb side up, spread with  butter  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.  Broiled  tripe  is at its best when cooked over a charcoal fire.  

   Tripe in Batter. 

Wipe  tripe  and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in batter, fry in a small quantity of  hot fat,  and drain.  

   Tripe Batter. 

Mix one cup  flour  with one-fourth teaspoon  salt;  add gradually one-half cup  cold water,  and when perfectly smooth add one  egg  well beaten, one-half tablespoon  vinegar  and one teaspoon  olive oil  or  melted butter.   

   Lyonnaise Tripe. 

Cut  honeycomb tripe  in pieces two inches long by one-half inch wide, having three cupfuls. Put on a pan and place in oven that  water  may be drawn out. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped  onion  in two tablespoons  butter  until slightly browned, add  tripe  drained from  water,  and cook five minutes. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper  and  finely chopped parsley.   

   Tripe à la Creole. 

Cut, bake, and drain  tripe  as for Lyonnaise Tripe. Cook same quantity of  butter  and  onion,  add one-eighth  green pepper  finely chopped, one tablespoon  flour,  one-half cup  stock,  one-fourth cup drained  tomatoes,  and one fresh  mushroom  cut in slices; then add  tripe  and cook five minutes. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

 

   Tripe à la Provençale. 

Add to  Lyonnaise Tripe  one tablespoon  white wine.  Cook until quite dry, add one-third cup  Tomato Sauce,  cook two minutes, season with  salt  and  pepper,  and serve.  

   Calf's Head à la Terrapin. 

Wash and clean a  calf's head,  and cook until tender in  boiling water  to cover. Cool and cut meat from cheek in small cubes. To two cups meat dice add one cup sauce made of two tablespoons  butter,  two tablespoons  flour,  and one cup  White Stock,  seasoned with one-half teaspoon  salt,  one-eighth teaspoon  pepper,  and few grains  cayenne.  Add one-half cup  cream  and  yolks of two eggs  slightly beaten; cook two minutes and add two tablespoons  Madeira wine.   

   Calf's Heart. 

Wash a  calf's heart,  remove veins, arteries, and clotted blood. Stuff (using half quantity of  Fish Stuffing I.  on page 149, seasoned highly with  sage ) and sew. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  roll in  flour,  and brown in  hot fat.  Place in small deep  baking-pan,  half cover it with  boiling water,  cover closely, and bake slowly two hours, basting every fifteen minutes. It may be necessary to add more  water.  Remove  heart  from pan and thicken the liquor with  flour  diluted with a small quantity of  cold water.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  and pour around the  heart  before serving.  

 
 WAYS OF WARMING OVER BEEF. 
    Roast Beef with Gravy.  

Cut  cold roast beef  in thin slices, place on a warm platter, and pour over some of the  gravy  reheated to the boiling point. If meat is allowed to stand in  gravy  on the range, it becomes hard and tough.  

 

   Cottage Pie. 

Cover bottom of a small greased baking-dish with  hot mashed potato,  add a thick layer of  roast beef,  chopped or cut in small pieces (seasoned with  salt,   pepper,  and a few drops of  onion juice ) and moistened with some of the  gravy;  cover with a thin layer of  mashed potato,  and bake in a hot oven long enough to heat through.  

   Beefsteak Pie. 

Cut remnants of  cold broiled steak  or  roast beef  in one-inch cubes. Cover with  boiling water,  add one-half  onion,  and cook slowly one hour. Remove  onion,  thicken gravy with  flour  diluted with  cold water,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  potatoes  cut in one-fourth-inch slices, which have been parboiled eight minutes in  boiling salted water.  Put in a buttered  pudding-dish,  cool, cover with  baking-powder biscuit mixture  or  pie crust.  Bake in a hot oven. If covered with pie crust, make several incisions in crust that gases may escape.  

   Cecils with Tomato Sauce. 

  1 cup cold  roast beef  or  rare steak  finely chopped. 
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
  Onion juice.  
  Worcestershire Sauce.  
 2 tablespoons  bread crumbs.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
  Yolk 1 egg  slightly beaten. 
 
  Season  beef  with  salt,   pepper,   onion juice,  and  Worcestershire Sauce;  add remaining ingredients, shape after the form of small croquettes, pointed at ends. Roll in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  drain, and serve with  Tomato Sauce.   

   Corned Beef Hash. 

Remove skin and gristle from cooked  corned beef,  then chop the meat. When meat is very fat, discard most of the fat. To chopped meat add an equal quantity of  cold 
 
 

boiled chopped potatoes.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  put into a hot buttered frying-pan, moisten with  milk  or  cream,  stir until well mixed, spread evenly, then place on a part of the range where it may slowly brown underneath. Turn, and fold on a hot platter. Garnish with sprig of  parsley  in the middle.  

   Corned Beef Hash with Beets. 

When preparing Corned Beef Hash, add one-half as much finely chopped cooked  beets  as  potatoes.   Cold roast beef  or one-half  roast beef  and one-half  corned beef  may be used.  

   Dried Beef with Cream. 

  1/4 lb.  smoked dried beef,  thinly sliced. 
 1 cup  scalded cream.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Remove skin and separate meat in pieces, cover with  hot water,  let stand ten minutes, and drain. Dilute  flour  with enough  cold water  to pour easily, making a smooth paste; add to  cream,  and cook in  double boiler  ten minutes. Add  beef,  and reheat.  One cup  White Sauce I.  may be used in place of cream.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XIII. 
 LAMB AND MUTTON. 
 LAMB is the name given to the meat of lambs; mutton, to the meat of sheep. Lamb, coming as it does from the young creature, is immature, and less nutritious than mutton. The flesh of mutton ranks with the flesh of beef in nutritive value and digestibility. The fat of mutton, on account of its larger percentage of stearic acid, is more difficult of digestion than the fat of beef.  Lamb may be eaten soon after the animal is killed and dressed; mutton must hang to ripen. Good mutton comes from a sheep about three years old, and should hang from two to three weeks. The English South Down Mutton is cut from creatures even older than three years. Young lamb, when killed from six to three months old, is called spring lamb, and appears in the market as early as the last of January, but is very scarce until March. Lamb one year old is called a yearling. Many object to the strong flavor of mutton; this is greatly overcome by removing the pink skin and trimming off superfluous fat.  Lamb and mutton are divided into two parts by cutting through entire length of backbone; then subdivided into fore and hind quarter, eight ribs being left on hind-quarter,--while in beef but three ribs are left on hind-quarter. These eight ribs are cut into chops and are known as  rib chops.  The meat which lies between these ribs and the leg, cut into chops, is known as  loin  or  kidney chops.   Lamb and mutton chops cut from loin have a small piece of tenderloin on one side of bone, and correspond to porterhouse steaks in the beef creature. Rib chops which have 
 
 

  1. Hind-quarter of veal. 2. Hind-quarter of lamb.  An illustration of two joints of meat hanging from meat hooks. The caption identifies each in order from left to right.  
the bone cut short and scraped clean, nearly to the lean meat, are called  French chops.    The leg  is sold whole for boiling or roasting. The fore-quarter may be boned, stuffed, rolled, and roasted, but is more often used for broth, stew, or fricassee.  For  a saddle of mutton  the loin is removed whole before splitting the creature. Some of bones are removed and 
 
 

the flank ends are rolled, fastened with wooden  skewers,  and securely tied to keep  skewers  in place.  Good quality mutton should be fine-grained and of bright pink color; the fat white, hard, and flaky. If the outside skin comes off easily, mutton is sure to be good. Lamb chops may be easily distinguished from mutton chops by the red color of bone. As lamb grows older, blood recedes from bones; therefore in mutton the bone is white. In  leg of lamb  the bone at joint is serrated, while in leg of mutton the bone at joint is smooth and rounded. Good mutton contains a larger proportion of fat than good beef. Poor mutton is often told by the relatively small proportion of fat and lean as compared to bone.  Lamb is usually preferred well done; mutton is often cooked rare. 
   Broiled Lamb or Mutton Chops. 

Wipe  chops,  remove superfluous fat, and place in a  broiler  greased with some of  mutton fat.  In  loin chops,  flank may be rolled and fastened with a small wooden  skewer.  Follow directions for Broiling Beefsteak on page 176.  

   Pan-broiled Chops. 

 Chops  for pan broiling should have flank and most of fat removed. Wipe  chops  and put in hissing hot frying-pan. Turn as soon as under surface is seared, and sear other side. Turn often, using knife and fork that the surface may not be pierced, as would be liable if fork alone were used. Cook six minutes if liked rare, eight to ten minutes if liked well done. Let stand around edge of frying-pan to brown the outside fat. When half cooked, sprinkle with  salt.  Drain on brown paper, put on hot platter, and spread with  butter  or serve with  Tomato or Soubise Sauce.   

   Breaded Mutton Chops. 

Wipe and trim  chops,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat  from five to 
 
 

eight minutes, and drain. Serve with  Tomato Sauce,  or stack around a mound of  mashed potatoes,   fried potato balls,  or  green peas.  Never fry but four at a time, and allow  fat  to reheat between fryings. After testing  fat  for temperature, put in  chops  and place kettle on back of range, that surface of  chops  may not be too brown while the inside is still underdone.  

  1. Loin Chop. 2. French Chop. 3. Rib Chop.  An illustration of three different cuts of meat. The caption identifies each in order from left to right.  
   Chops à la Signora. 

Gash  French Chops  on outer edge, extending cut half-way through lean meat. Insert in each gash a slice of  truffle,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  wrap in  calf's caul.  Roll in  flour,  dip in  egg,  then in  stale bread crumbs,  and sauté in  butter  eight minutes, turning often. Place in oven four minutes to finish cooking. Arrange on hot platter for serving, and place on top of each a fresh broiled  mushroom  or  mushroom  baked in  cream.  To  fat  in pan add small quantity of  boiling water  and pour around chops. This is a delicious way of cooking chops for a dinner party.  

   Chops en Papillote. 

Finely chop the  whites of three hard boiled eggs  and force  yolks  through  potato ricer,  mix, and add to three 
 
 

common  crackers,  rolled and sifted; then add three tablespoons  melted butter,   salt,   pepper,  and  onion juice,  to taste. Add enough  cream  to make of right consistency to spread. Cover  chops  thinly with mixture and wrap in buttered  paper cases.  Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from cases, place on hot platter, and garnish with  parsley.   

   Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon. 

Wipe six  French Chops,  cut one and one-half inches thick. Split meat in halves, cutting to bone. Cook two and one-half tablespoons  butter  and one tablespoon  onion  five minutes; remove  onion,  add one-half cup chopped  mushrooms,  and cook five minutes; then add two tablespoons  flour,  three tablespoons  stock,  one teaspoon finely chopped  parsley,  one-fourth teaspoon  salt,  and few grains of  cayenne.  Spread mixture between layers of chops, press together lightly, wrap in buttered  paper cases,  and broil ten minutes. Serve with  Spanish Sauce.   

   Boiled Leg of Mutton. 

Wipe  meat,  place in a kettle, and cover with  boiling water.  Bring quickly to boiling point, boil five minutes, and skim. Set on back of range and simmer until meat is tender. When half done, add one tablespoon  salt.  Serve with  Caper Sauce,  or add to two cups  White Sauce  (made of one-half  milk  and one-half  Mutton Stock ), two  hard boiled eggs  cut in slices.  

   Braised Leg of Mutton. 

Order a  leg of mutton  boned. Wipe, stuff, sew, and place in deep pan. Cook five minutes in one-fourth cup  butter,  a slice each of  onion,   carrot  and  turnip  cut in dice, one-half  bay leaf,  and a sprig each of  thyme  and  parsley.  Add three cups  hot water,  one and one-half teaspoons  salt,  and twelve  peppercorns;  pour over  mutton.  Cover closely, and cook slowly three hours, uncovering for the last half-hour. 
 
 

Remove from pan to hot platter. Brown three tablespoons  butter,  add four tablespoons  flour  and stir until well browned, pour on slowly the strained liquor; there should be one and three-fourths cups.  

   Stuffing. 

  1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/2 tablespoon  Poultry Seasoning.  
 1/4 cup  boiling water.  
 
  

   Roast Lamb. 

A  leg of lamb  is usually sent from market wrapped in caul; remove caul, wipe meat, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  place on rack in  dripping-pan,  and dredge meat and bottom of pan with  flour.  Place in hot oven, and baste as soon as  flour  in pan is brown, and every fifteen minutes afterwards until meat is done, which will take about one and three-fourths hours. It may be necessary to put a small quantity of  water  in pan while meat is cooking.  Leg of lamb  may be boned and stuffed for roasting. See  Stuffing,  under Braised Mutton.  Make  gravy,  following directions for Roast Beef Gravy on page 179, or serve with  Currant Jelly Sauce.   

   To Carve a Leg of Lamb. 

Cut in thin slices across grain of meat, to the bone, beginning at top of the  leg.   

   Saddle of Mutton. 

 Mutton  for a saddle should always be dressed at market. Wipe meat, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  place on rack in  dripping-pan,  and dredge meat and bottom of pan with  flour.  Bake in hot oven one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Serve with  Currant Jelly Sauce.   

   To Carve a Saddle of Mutton, 

cut thin slices parallel with backbone, then slip the knife under and separate slices from ribs.  

 

   Crown of Lamb. 

Select parts from two  loins containing ribs,  scrape flesh from bone between ribs, as far as  lean meat,  and trim off backbone. Shape each piece in a semicircle, having  ribs  outside, and sew pieces together to form a crown. Trim ends of  bones  evenly, care being taken that they are not left too long, and wrap each  bone  in a thin   of  fat salt pork  to prevent  bone  from burning. Roast one and one-fourth hours, covering  bones  with buttered paper. Remove  pork  from  bones  before serving, and fill centre with  Purée of Chestnuts.   

   Mutton Curry. 

Wipe and cut meat from  fore-quarter of mutton  in one-inch pieces; there should be three cupfuls. Put in kettle, cover with  cold water,  and bring quickly to boiling point; drain in  colander  and pour over one quart  cold water.  Return meat to kettle, cover with one quart  boiling water,  add three  onions  cut in slices, one-half teaspoon  peppercorns,  and a sprig each of  thyme  and  parsley.  Simmer until meat is tender, remove meat, strain liquor, and thicken with one-fourth cup each of  butter  and  flour  cooked together; to the  flour  add one-half tablespoon  curry powder,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  and one-eighth teaspoon  pepper.  Add meat to  gravy,  reheat, and serve with border of  steamed rice.   

   Fricassee of Lamb with Brown Gravy. 

Order three pounds  lamb from the fore-quarter,  cut in pieces for serving. Wipe meat, put in kettle, cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove from  water,  cool, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  butter  or  mutton fat.  Arrange on platter, and pour around one and one-half cups  Brown Sauce  made from liquor in which meat was 
 
 

cooked after removing all fat. It is better to cook meat the day before serving, as then fat may be more easily removed.  

   Irish Stew with Dumplings. 

Wipe and cut in pieces three pounds  lamb from the fore-quarter.  Put in kettle, cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly two hours or until tender. After cooking one hour, add one-half cup each  carrot  and  turnip  cut in one-half inch cubes, and one  onion  cut in slices. Fifteen minutes before serving add four cups  potatoes  cut in one-fourth inch slices, previously parboiled five minutes in  boiling water.  Thicken with one-fourth cup  flour,  diluted with enough  cold water  to form a thin smooth paste. Season with  salt  and  pepper,  serve with  Dumplings.   

   Scotch Broth. 

Wipe three pounds  mutton  cut from fore-quarter. Cut lean meat in one-inch cubes, put in kettle, cover with three pints  cold water,  bring quickly to boiling point, skim, and add one-half cup  barley  which has been soaked in  cold water  over night; simmer one and one-half hours, or until meat is tender. Put  bones  in a second kettle, cover with  cold water,  heat slowly to boiling point, skim, and boil one and one-half hours. Strain  water  from  bones  and add to  meat.  Fry five minutes in two tablespoons  butter,  one-fourth cup each of  carrot,   turnip,   onion,  and  celery,  cut in one-half inch dice, add to soup with  salt  and  pepper  to taste, and cook until vegetables are soft. Thicken with two tablespoons each of  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Add one-half tablespoon finely chopped  parsley  just before serving.   Rice  may be used in place of barley.   

   Lamb's Kidneys I. 

Pare and cut in slices six  kidneys,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt two tablespoons  butter  in hot 
 
 

frying-pan, put in  kidneys,  and cook five minutes; dredge thoroughly with  flour,  and add two-thirds cup  boiling water  or hot  Brown Stock.  Cook five minutes, add more  salt  and  pepper  if needed.  Lemon juice,   onion juice,  or  Madeira wine  may be used for additional flavor.  Kidneys  must be cooked a short time, or for several hours; they are tender after a few minutes' cooking, but soon toughen, and need hours of cooking to again make them tender.  

   Lambs' Kidneys II. 

Pare, trim, and slice six  kidneys.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  sauté in  butter,  and remove to a hot dish. Cook one-half tablespoon finely chopped  onion  in two tablespoons  butter  until brown; add three tablespoons  flour,  and pour on slowly one and one-half cups  hot stock.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  strain, add  kidneys,  and one tablespoon  Madeira wine.   

 
 WAYS OF WARMING OVER MUTTON AND LAMB. 
   Minced Lamb in Toast. 

Remove dry pieces of skin and gristle from remnants of  cold roast lamb,  then chop meat. Heat in well buttered frying-pan, season with  salt,   pepper,  and  celery salt,  and moisten with a little  hot water  or  stock;  or, after seasoning, dredge well with  flour,  stir, and add enough stock to make thin gravy. Pour over small slices of  buttered toast.   

   Scalloped Lamb. 

Remove skin and fat from thin slices of  cold roast lamb,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.  Cover bottom of a buttered baking-dish with  buttered cracker crumbs;  cover  crumbs  with meat, cover meat with  boiled macaroni,  and add another layer of meat and  macaroni.  Pour over  Tomato Sauce,  and cover with  buttered cracker 
 
 

crumbs.  Bake in hot oven until  crumbs  are brown.   Cold boiled rice  may be used in place of macaroni.   

   Blanquette of Lamb. 

Cut  remnants of cooked lamb  in cubes or  s. Reheat two cups meat in two cups sauce,--sauce made of one-fourth cup each of  butter  and  flour,  one cup  White Stock,  and one cup of  milk  which has been scalded with two blades of  mace.  Season with  salt  and  pepper,  and add one tablespoon  Mushroom Catsup,  or any other suitable  table sauce.  Garnish with large  croûtons,  serve around  green peas,  or in a  potato border,  sprinkled with finely chopped  parsley.   

   Salmi of Lamb. 

Cut  cold roast lamb  in thin slices. Cook five minutes two tablespoons  butter  with one-half tablespoon finely chopped  onion.  Add  lamb,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and cover with one cup  Brown Sauce,  or one cup  cold lamb gravy  seasoned with  Worcestershire, Harvey, or Elizabeth Sauce.  Cook until thoroughly heated. Arrange slices overlapping one another lengthwise of platter, pour around sauce, and garnish with  toast points.  A few sliced  mushrooms  or stoned  olives  improve this sauce.  

   Casserole of Rice and Meat. 

Line a mould, slightly greased, with  steamed rice.  Fill the centre with two cups  cold, finely chopped, cooked mutton,  highly seasoned with  salt,   pepper,   cayenne,   celery salt,   onion juice,  and  lemon juice;  then add one-fourth cup  cracker crumbs,  one  egg  slightly beaten, and enough  hot stock  or  water  to moisten. Cover meat with  rice,  cover  rice  with buttered paper to keep out moisture while steaming, and steam forty-five minutes. Serve on a platter surrounded with  Tomato Sauce.    Veal  may be used in place of mutton.   

 

   Breast of Lamb. 

Wipe a  breast of lamb,  put in kettle with bouquet of  sweet herbs,  a small  onion  stuck with six  cloves,  one-half tablespoon  salt,  one-half teaspoon  peppercorns,  and one-fourth cup each  carrot  and  turnip  cut in dice. Cover with  boiling water,  and simmer until bones will slip out easily. Take meat from  water,  remove bones, and press under weight. When cool, trim in shape, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Serve with  Spanish Sauce.  Small pieces of  cold lamb  may be sprinkled with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and fried in deep  fat.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XIV. 
 VEAL. 
 VEAL is the meat obtained from a young calf killed when six to eight weeks old. Veal from a younger animal is very unwholesome, and is liable to provoke serious gastric disturbances. Veal contains a much smaller percentage of fat than beef or mutton, is less nutritious and (though from a young creature) more difficult of digestion. Like lamb, it is not improved by long hanging, 
  1. Saddle of Mutton. 2. Pork for Larding. 3. Leg of Veal from which Cutlets are cut.  An illustration of three different cuts of meat. The caption identifies each cut in order from left to right.  
but should be soon eaten after killing and dressing. It should always be remembered that the flesh of young animals does not keep fresh as long as that of older ones. Veal is divided in same manner as lamb, into fore and hind quarters. The fore-quarter is subdivided into breast, shoulder, and neck; the hind-quarter into loin, leg, and knuckle. Cutlets, fillets (cushion), and fricandeau are cut from the thick part of leg.  Good veal may be known by its pinkish-colored flesh and white fat; when the flesh lacks color, it has been taken from a creature which was too young to kill for 
 
 

food, or, if of the right age, was bled before killing. Veal may be obtained throughout the year, but is in season during the spring. Veal should be thoroughly cooked; being deficient in fat and having but little flavor, pork or butter should be added while cooking, and more seasoning is required than for other meats. 
   Veal Cutlets. 

Use  slices of veal from leg  cut one-half inch thick. Wipe, remove bone and skin, then cut in pieces for serving. The long, irregular-shaped pieces may be rolled, and fastened with small wooden  skewers.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper;  dip in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs;  fry slowly, until well browned, in  salt pork fat  or  butter;  then remove cutlets to  stewpan  and pour over one and one-half cups  Brown Sauce.  Place on back of range and cook slowly forty minutes, or until cutlets are tender. Arrange on hot platter, strain  sauce  and pour around cutlets, and garnish with  parsley.   

   Brown Sauce. 

Brown three tablespoons  butter,  add three tablespoons  flour,  and stir until well browned. Add gradually one and one-half cups  stock  or  water,  or half stock and half  stewed and strained tomatoes.  Season with  salt,   pepper,   lemon juice,  and  Worcestershire Sauce.  The  trimmings from veal  (including  skin  and  bones ) may be covered with one and one-half cups  cold water,  allowed to heat slowly to boiling point, then cooked, strained, and used for sauce.  

   Fricassee of Veal. 

Wipe two pounds  sliced veal, cut from loin,  and cover with  boiling water;  add one small  onion,  two stalks  celery,  and six slices  carrot.  Cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove meat, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  pork fat.  Strain liquor and use in making a  Brown Sauce  to pour around  veal;  there should be two cups of the  sauce.   

 

   Loin of Veal à la Jardinière. 

Wipe four pounds  loin of veal,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dredge with  flour.  Put one-fourth cup  butter  in deep  stewpan;  when melted, add  veal  and brown entire surface of meat, watching carefully and turning often, that it may not burn. Add one cup  hot water,  cover closely, and cook slowly two hours, or until meat is tender, adding more  water  as needed, using in all about three cups. Remove meat, thicken stock remaining in pan with  flour  diluted with enough  cold water  to pour easily. Surround the meat with two cups each  boiled turnips  and  carrots,  cut in half-inch cubes, and  potatoes  cut in balls. Serve  gravy  in a  tureen.   

   Braised Shoulder of Veal. 

Bone, stuff, and sew in shape five pounds  shoulder of veal;  then cook as Braised Beef, adding with  vegetables  two sprigs  thyme  and one of  marjoram.   

   Roast Veal. 

The  leg, cushion (thickest part of leg), and loin,  are suitable pieces for roasting. When leg is to be used, it should be boned at market. Wipe meat, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  stuff, and sew in shape. Place on rack in  dripping-pan,  dredge meat and bottom of pan with  flour,  and place around meat  s of  fat salt pork.  Bake three or four hours in moderate oven, basting every fifteen minutes with one-third cup  butter,  melted in one-half cup  boiling water,  until used, then baste with  fat  in pan. Serve with  brown gravy.   

   Fricandeau of Veal. 

Lard a  cushion of veal  and roast or braise.  

 

   India Curry. 

Wipe a  slice of veal  one-half inch thick, weighing one and one-half pounds, and cook in frying-pan without  butter,  quickly searing one side, then the other. Place on a board and cut in one and one-half inch pieces. Fry two sliced  onions  in one-half cup  butter  until brown, remove  onions,  and add to the  butter,  meat, and one-half tablespoon  curry powder,  then cover with  boiling water.  Cook slowly until meat is tender. Thicken with  flour  diluted with enough  cold water  to pour easily; then add one teaspoon  vinegar.  Serve with a border of  steamed rice.   

   Veal Birds. 

Wipe  slices of veal  from leg, cut as thinly as possible, then remove bone, skin, and fat. Pound until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces two and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide, each piece making a bird. Chop  trimmings of meat,  adding for every three birds a piece of  fat salt pork  cut one inch square and one-fourth inch thick;  pork  also to be chopped. Add to trimmings and  pork  one-half their measure of fine  cracker crumbs,  and season highly with  salt,   pepper,   cayenne,   poultry seasoning,   lemon juice,  and  onion juice.  Moisten with beaten  egg  and  hot water  or  stock.  Spread each piece with thin layer of mixture and avoid having mixture come close to edge. Roll, and fasten with  skewers.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and fry in  hot butter  until a golden brown. Put in  stewpan,  add  cream  to half cover meat, cook slowly twenty minutes or until tender. Serve on small pieces of  toast,  straining  cream  remaining in pan over birds and toast, and garnish with  parsley.   A  Thin White Sauce  in place of cream may be served around birds.   

   Veal Loaf I. 

Separate a  knuckle of veal  in pieces by sawing through bone. Wipe, put in kettle with one pound  lean veal  and 
 
 

one  onion;  cover with  boiling water  and cook slowly until  veal  is tender. Drain and chop finely meat, season highly with  salt  and  pepper.  Garnish bottom of mould with slices of  hard boiled eggs  and  parsley.  Put in layer of meat, layer of thinly sliced  hard boiled eggs,  sprinkle with finely chopped  parsley,  and cover with remaining  meat.  Pour over liquor, which should be reduced to one cupful. Press and chill, turn on a dish, and garnish with  parsley.   

   Veal Loaf II. 

Wipe three pounds  lean veal,  and remove skin and membrane. Chop finely or force through  meat chopper,  then add two slices  fat salt pork  cut one-fourth inch thick (also finely chopped), six common  crackers  (rolled), one-fourth cup  melted butter,  and one  egg  slightly beaten. Season highly with  salt,   pepper,  and  sage.  Pack in a small bread pan, smooth evenly on top, and bake slowly three hours. Cool before turning from pan. Cut in thin slices for serving.  

 
 WAYS OF WARMING OVER VEAL. 
   Minced Veal on Toast. 

Prepare as Minced Lamb on Toast, using  veal  in place of lamb.  

   Blanquette of Veal. 

Reheat two cups  cold roast veal,  cut in small  s, in one and one-half cups  White Sauce I.  Serve in a  potato border  and sprinkle over all finely chopped  parsley.   

   Ragoût of Veal. 

Reheat two cups  cold roast veal,  cut in cubes, in one and one-half cups  Brown Sauce  seasoned with one teaspoon  Worcestershire Sauce,  few drops of  onion juice,  and a few grains of  cayenne.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XV. 
 SWEETBREADS. 
 A SWEETBREAD is the thymus gland of lamb or calf, but in cookery, veal sweetbreads only are considered. It is prenatally developed, of unknown function, and as soon as calf is taken from liquid food it gradually disappears. Pancreas, stomach sweetbread, is sold in some sections of the country, but in our markets this custom is not practised. Sweetbreads are a reputed table delicacy, and a valuable addition to the menu of the convalescent.  A sweetbread consists of two parts, connected by tubing and membranes. The round, compact part is called the heart sweetbread, as its position is nearer the heart; the other part is called the throat sweetbread. When sweetbread is found in market separated, avoid buying two of the throat sweetbreads, as the heart sweetbread is more desirable.  Sweetbreads spoil very quickly. They should be removed from paper as soon as received from market, plunged into cold water and allowed to stand one hour, drained, and put into acidulated, salted boiling water, then allowed to cook slowly twenty minutes; again drained, and plunged into cold water, that they may be kept white and firm. Sweetbreads are always parboiled in this manner for subsequent cooking. 
   Broiled Sweetbread. 

Parboil a  sweetbread,  split cross-wise, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and broil five minutes. Serve with  Lemon Butter.   

 

   Creamed Sweetbread. 

Parboil a  sweetbread,  and cut in one-half inch cubes, or separate in small pieces. Reheat in one cup  White Sauce II.  Creamed Sweetbread may be served on  toast,  or used as filling for  patty cases  or  Swedish Timbales.   

   Creamed Sweetbread and Chicken. 

Reheat equal parts of  cold cooked chicken,  and  sweetbread  cut in dice, in  White Sauce II.   

   Sweetbread à la Poulette. 

Reheat  sweetbread,  cut in cubes, in one cup  Béchamel Sauce.   

   Larded Sweetbread. 

Parboil a  sweetbread,  lard the upper side, and bake until well browned, basting with  Meat Glaze.   

   Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips. 

Parboil a  sweetbread,  split, and cut in pieces shaped like a small cutlet, or cut in circular pieces. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and sauté in  butter.  Arrange in a circle around  Creamed Asparagus Tips.   

   Sweetbread with Tomato Sauce. 

Prepare as  Sweetbread  Cutlets with Asparagus Tips, sauté in  butter  or fry in deep  fat,  and serve with  Tomato Sauce.   

   Sweetbread and Bacon. 

Parboil a  sweetbread,  cut in small pieces, dip in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and arrange alternately with pieces of  bacon  on small  skewers,  having four pieces  sweetbread  and three of  bacon  on each  skewer.  Fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Arrange in a circle around mound of  green peas.   

 

 CHAPTER XVI. 
 PORK. 
 PORK is the flesh and fat of pig or hog. Different parts of the creature, when dressed, take different names.  The chine and spareribs, which correspond to the loin in lamb and veal, are used for roasts or steaks. Two ribs are left on the chine. The hind legs furnish  hams.  These are cured, salted, and smoked. Sugar-cured hams are considered the best. Pickle, to which is added light brown sugar, molasses, and saltpetre, is introduced close to bone; hams are allowed to hang one week, then smoked with hickory wood.  Shoulders  are usually corned, or salted and smoked, though sometimes cooked fresh.  Pigs' feet  are boiled until tender, split, and covered with vinegar made from white wine.  Hocks,  the part just above the feet, are corned, and much used by Germans.  Heads  are soused, and cooked by boiling. The flank, which lies just below the ribs, is salted and smoked, and furnishes  bacon.  The best pieces of fat salt pork come from the back, on either side of backbone.  Fat, when separated from flesh and membrane, is tried out and called lard.  Leaf-lard  is the best, and is tried out from the leaf-shaped pieces of solid fat which lie inside the flank.  Sausages  are trimmings of lean and fat meat, minced, highly seasoned, and forced into thin casings made of the prepared entrails.  Little pigs   (four weeks old) are sometimes killed, dressed, and roasted whole.  Pork contains the largest percentage of fat of any meat. When eaten fresh it is the most difficult of digestion, and 
 
 

although found in market through the entire year, it should be but seldom served, and then only during the winter months. By curing, salting, and smoking, pork is rendered more wholesome.  Bacon,  next to butter and cream, is the most easily assimilated of all fatty foods. 
   Pork Chops. 

Wipe  chops,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  place in a hot frying-pan, and cook slowly until tender, and well browned on each side.  

   Pork Chops with Fried Apples. 

Arrange  Pork Chops  on a platter, and surround with slices of  apples,  cut one-half inch thick, fried in the  fat  remaining in pan.  

   Roast Pork. 

Wipe  pork,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  place on a rack in a  dripping-pan,  and dredge meat and bottom of pan with  flour.  Bake in a moderate oven three or four hours, basting every fifteen minutes with  fat  in pan. Make a  gravy  as for other roasts.  

   Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes. 

Wipe  tenderloins,  put in a  dripping-pan,  and brown quickly in a hot oven; then sprinkle with  salt,   pepper,  and  powdered sage,  and bake forty-five minutes, basting every fifteen minutes.  

   Sweet Potatoes. 

Pare six  potatoes  and parboil ten minutes, drain, put in pan with  meat,  and cook until soft, basting when basting meat.  

   Breakfast Bacon. 

See Liver and  Bacon,  page 185.  

 

   Fried Salt Pork with Codfish. 

Cut  fat salt pork  in one-fourth inch slices, cut gashes one-third inch apart in slices, nearly to rind. Try out in a hot frying-pan until brown and crisp, occasionally turning off fat from pan. Serve around  s of  codfish  which have been soaked in pan of  lukewarm water  and allowed to stand on back of range until soft. Serve with  Drawn Butter Sauce,   boiled potatoes,  and  beets.   

   Broiled Ham. 

Soak thin slices of  ham  one hour in  lukewarm water.  Drain, wipe, and broil three minutes.  

   Fried Ham and Eggs. 

Wipe  ham,  remove one-half outside layer of fat, and place in frying-pan. Cover with  tepid water  and let stand on back of range thirty minutes; drain, and dry on a towel. Heat pan, put in  ham,  brown quickly on one side, turn and brown other side; or soak  ham  over night, dry, and cook in hot frying-pan. If cooked too long,  ham  will become hard and dry. Serve with  fried eggs  cooked in the  tried-out ham fat.   

   Boiled Ham. 

Soak several hours or over night in  cold water  to cover. Wash thoroughly, trim off hard skin near end of bone, put in a kettle, cover with  cold water,  heat to boiling point, and cook slowly until tender. See Time Table for Cooking, page 32. Remove kettle from range and set aside, that  ham  may partially cool; then take from  water,  remove outside skin, sprinkle with  sugar  and fine  cracker crumbs,  and stick with  cloves  one-half inch apart. Bake one hour in a slow oven. Serve cold, thinly sliced.  

 

   Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce. 

Place a whole baked  ham  in the oven fifteen minutes before serving time, that outside fat may be heated. Remove to a hot platter, garnish bone end with a paper ruffle, and serve with  Champagne Sauce.   

   Westphalian Ham. 

These  hams  are imported from Germany, and need no additional cooking. Cut in very thin slices for serving.  

   Broiled Pigs' Feet. 

Wipe, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and broil six to eight minutes. Serve with  Maître d'Hôtel Butter  or  Sauce Piquante.   

   Fried Pigs' Feet. 

Wipe, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Sausages. 

Cut apart a string of  sausages.  Pierce each  sausage  several times with a carving fork. Put in frying-pan, cover with  boiling water,  and cook fifteen minutes; drain, return to frying-pan, and fry until well browned. Serve with  fried apples.   Sausages  are often broiled.  

   Boston Baked Beans. 

Pick over one quart  pea beans,  cover with  cold water,  and soak over night. In morning, drain, cover with  fresh water,  heat slowly (keeping  water  below boiling point), and cook until skins will burst,--which is best determined by taking a few  beans  on the tip of a spoon and blowing on them, when skins will burst if sufficiently cooked.  Beans  thus tested must, of course, be thrown away. Drain  beans,  throwing bean-water out of doors, not in sink. 
 
 

Scald  rind of one-half pound fat salt pork,  scrape, remove one-fourth inch slice and put in bottom of  bean-pot.  Cut through  rind of remaining pork  every one-half inch, making cuts one inch deep. Put  beans  in pot and bury  pork  in  beans,  leaving rind exposed. Mix one tablespoon  salt,  one tablespoon  molasses,  and three tablespoons  sugar;  add one cup  boiling water,  and pour over  beans;  then add enough more  boiling water  to cover  beans.  Cover  bean-pot,  put in oven, and bake slowly six or eight hours, uncovering the last hour of cooking, that  rind  may become brown and crisp. Add  water  as needed. Many feel sure that by adding with seasonings one-half tablespoon  mustard,  the  beans  are more easily digested. If  pork  mixed with lean is preferred, use less  salt.   The fine reputation which Boston Baked Beans have gained, has been attributed to the earthen  bean-pot  with small top and bulging sides in which they are supposed to be cooked. Equally good  beans  have often been eaten where a  five-pound lard pail  was substituted for the broken  bean-pot.    Yellow-eyed beans  are very good when baked.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XVII. 
 POULTRY AND GAME. 
 POULTRY includes all domestic birds suitable for food except pigeon and squab. Examples: Chicken, fowl, turkey, duck, goose, etc. Game includes such birds and animals suitable for food as are pursued and taken in field and forest. Examples: Quail, partridge, wild duck, plover, deer, etc.  The flesh of chicken, fowl, and turkey has much shorter fibre than that of ruminating animals, and is not intermingled with fat,--the fat always being found in layers directly under the skin, and surrounding the intestines. Chicken, fowl, and turkey are nutritious, and chicken is specially easy of digestion. The white meat found on breast and wing is more readily digested than the dark meat. The legs, on account of constant motion, are of a coarser fibre and darker color.  Since incubators have been so much used for hatching chickens, small birds suitable for broiling may be always found in market. Chickens which appear in market during January weighing about one and one-half pounds are called  spring chickens.   Fowl is found in market throughout the year, but is at its best from March until June.  Philadelphia, until recently, furnished our market with Philadelphia chickens and  capons,  but now Massachusetts furnishes equally good ones, which are found in market from December to June. They are very large, plump, and superior eating. At an early age they are deprived of the organs of reproduction, penned, and specially fatted 
 
 

for killing. They are recognized by the presence of head, tail, and wing feathers.  Turkeys are found in market throughout the year, but are best during the winter months. Tame ducks and geese are very indigestible on account of the large quantity of fat they contain. Goose meat is thoroughly infiltrated with fat, containing sometimes from forty to forty-five per cent. Pigeons, being old birds, need long, slow cooking to make them tender. Squabs (young pigeons) make a delicious tidbit for the convalescent, and are often the first meat allowed a patient by the physician.  The flesh of game, with the exception of wild duck and wild geese, is tender, contains less fat than poultry, is of fine though strong flavor, and easy of digestion. Game meat is usually of dark color, partridge and quail being exceptions, and is usually cooked rare. Venison, the flesh of deer, is short fibred, dark colored, highly savored, tender, and easy of digestion; being highly savored, it often disagrees with those of weak digestion.  Geese are in market throughout the year, Massachusetts and Rhode Island furnishing specially good ones. A goose twelve weeks old is known as a  green goose.  They may be found in market from May to September. Young geese which appear in market September first and continue through December are called  goslings.  They have been hatched during May and June, and then fatted for market.  Young ducks, found in market about March first, are called  ducklings.  Canvasback Ducks have gained a fine reputation throughout the country, and are found in market from the last of November until March. Redhead Ducks are in season two weeks earlier, and are about as good eating as Canvasback Ducks, and much less in price. The distinctive flavor of both is due to the wild celery on which they feed. Many other kinds of ducks are found in market during the fall and winter. Examples: Widgeon, Mallard, Lake Erie Teal, Black Ducks, and Butterballs.  
 
 

 Fresh quail are in market from October fifteenth to January first, the law forbidding their being killed at any other time in the year. The same is true of partridge; but both are frozen and kept in cold storage several months. California sends frozen quail in large numbers to Eastern markets. Gr ou se  (prairie chicken)  are always obtainable,--fresh ones in the fall; later, those kept in cold storage. Plover may be bought from April until December. 
  
 To Select Poultry and Game. 
 A chicken  is known by soft feet, smooth skin, and soft cartilage at end of breastbone. An abundance of pinfeathers always indicates a young bird, while the presence of long hairs denotes age. In a  fowl  the feet have become hard and dry with coarse scales, and cartilage at end of breastbone has ossified.  Cock turkeys  are usually better eating than hen turkeys, unless hen turkey is young, small, and plump. A good turkey should be plump, have smooth dark legs, and cartilage at end of breastbone soft and pliable. Good geese abound in pinfeathers. Small birds should be plump, have soft feet and pliable bills.  
   To Dress and Clean Poultry. 

Remove hairs and down by holding the bird over a flame (from gas, alcohol, or burning paper) and constantly changing position until all parts of surface have been exposed to flame; this is known as  singeing.  Cut off the head and draw out pinfeathers, using a small pointed knife. Cut through the skin around the leg one and one-half inches below the leg joint, care being taken not to cut tendons; place leg at this cut over edge of board, press downward to snap the bone, then take foot in right hand, holding  bird  firmly in left hand, and pull off foot, and with it the tendons. In old birds the tendons must be drawn separately, which is best accomplished by using a steel  skewer.  Make an incision through skin below breastbone, just large enough to admit the hand. With the hand remove entrails, gizzard, heart, and liver; the last three named constitute what is known as  giblets.  The gall bladder, lying on the under 
 
 

surface of the right lobe of the liver, is removed with liver, and great care must be taken that it is not broken, as a small quantity of the bile which it contains would impart a bitter flavor to the parts with which it came in contact. Enclosed by the ribs, on either side of backbone, may be found the lungs, of spongy consistency and red color. Care must be taken that every part of them is removed. Kidneys, lying in the hollow near end of backbone, must also be removed. By introducing first two fingers under skin close to neck, the windpipe may be easily found and withdrawn; also the crop, which will be found adhering to skin close to breast. Draw down neck skin, and cut off neck close to body, leaving skin long enough to fasten under the back. Remove oil bag, and wash bird by allowing  cold water  to run through it, not allowing bird to soak in cold water. Wipe inside and outside, looking carefully to see that everything has been withdrawn. If there is disagreeable odor, suggesting that  fowl  may have been kept too long, clean at once, wash inside and out with  soda water,  and sprinkle inside with  charcoal  and place some under wings.  

 Poultry dressed at market seldom have tendons removed unless so ordered. It is always desirable to have them withdrawn, as they become hard and bony during cooking. It is the practice of market-men to cut a gash through the skin, to easier reach crop and windpipe. This gash must be sewed before stuffing, and causes the bird to look less attractive when cooked. 
   To Cut up a Fowl. 

Singe, draw out pinfeathers, cut off head, remove tendons and oil bag. Cut through skin between leg and body close to body, bend back leg (thus breaking ligaments), cut through flesh, and separate at joint. Separate the upper part of leg,  second joint,  from lower part of leg,  drumstick,  as leg is separated from body. Remove wing by cutting through skin and flesh around upper wing joint which lies next to body, then disjoint from body. Cut off tip of wing and separate wing at middle joint. Remove leg and wing from other side. 
 
 

Separate from back by cutting through skin, beginning two inches below breastbone and passing knife between terminus of small ribs on either side and extending cut to collar-bone. Before removing entrails, gizzard, heart, liver, lungs, kidneys, crop, and windpipe, observe their position, that the anatomy of the  bird  may be understood. The back is sometimes divided by cutting through the middle crosswise. The wishbone, with adjoining meat, is frequently removed, and the breast meat may be separated in two parts by cutting through flesh close to breastbone with  cleaver.  Wipe pieces, excepting back, with  cheese cloth  wrung out of cold water. Back piece needs thorough washing.  

   To Clean Giblets. 

Remove thin membrane, arteries, veins, and clotted blood around  heart.  Separate gall bladder from  liver,  cutting off any of  liver  that may have a greenish tinge. Cut fat and membranes from  gizzard.  Make a gash through thickest part of  gizzard,  and cut as far as inner lining, being careful not to pierce it. Remove the inner sack and discard. Wash  giblets  and cook until tender, with  neck  and tips of  wings,  putting them in  cold water  and heating  water  quickly that some of the flavor may be drawn out into stock, which is to be used for making gravy.  

   To Stuff Poultry. 

Put  stuffing  by spoonfuls in neck end, using enough to sufficiently fill the skin, that  bird  may look plump when served. Where  cracker stuffing  is used, allowance must be made for the swelling of  crackers,  otherwise skin may burst during cooking. Put remaining  stuffing  in body; if body is full, sew skin; if not full, bring skin together with a  skewer.   

   To Truss Fowl. 

Draw thighs close to body and hold by inserting a steel  skewer  under middle joint, running it through body, coming out under middle joint on other side. Cut piece three-fourths inch wide from neck skin, and with it fasten legs together at ends; or cross drumsticks, tie securely with a long string, and fasten to tail. Place wings close to body and hold them by inserting a 
 
 

second  skewer  through wing, body, and wing on opposite side. Draw neck skin under back and fasten with a small wooden  skewer.  Turn  bird  on its breast. Cross string attached to tail piece and draw it around each end of upper  skewer;  fasten string in a knot and cut off ends. In birds that are not stuffed, legs are often passed through incisions cut in body under bones near tail.  

  Stuffed and Trussed Chicken.  An illustration of two whole chickens, one prepared for stuffing and the other trussed.  
   To Dress Birds for Broiling. 

Singe, wipe, and with a sharp-pointed knife, beginning at back of neck, make a cut through backbone the entire length of  bird.  Lay open the bird and remove contents from inside. Cut out rib bones on either side of backbone, remove breastbone, then cut through tendons at joints.  

   To Fillet a Chicken. 

Remove skin from breast, and with a small sharp knife begin at end of collar-bone and cut through flesh, following close to wish and breastbones the entire length of meat. Raise flesh with fingers, and with knife free the piece of meat from bones which lie under it. Cut meat away from wing joint; this solid piece of breast is meat known as a  fillet.  This meat is 
 
 

easily separated in two parts. The upper, larger part is called the  large fillet;  the lower part, the  mignon fillet.  The tough skin on the outside of large fillet should be removed, also the sinew from mignon fillet. To remove tough skin, place large fillet on a board, upper side down, make an incision through flesh at top of fillet, and cut entire length of fillet, holding knife as close to skin as possible. Trim edges, that fillet may look shapely.  

   Broiled Chicken. 

Dress for broiling, following directions on page 218. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and place in a well-greased  broiler.  Broil twenty minutes over a clear fire, watching carefully and turning  broiler  so that all parts may be equally browned. The flesh side must be exposed to the fire the greater part of time, as the skin side will brown quickly. Remove to a hot platter, spread with soft  butter,  and sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper.   Chickens  are so apt to burn while broiling that many prefer to partially cook in oven. Place  chicken  in  dripping-pan,  skin side down, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dot over with  butter,  and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven; then broil to finish cooking.  

   Boiled Fowl. 

Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound  fowl;  tie in a piece of  cheese cloth, --otherwise scum will settle on skin and discolor it. Place on  trivet  in a kettle, half surround with  boiling water,  cover, and cook slowly until tender, turning occasionally. Add  salt  the last hour of cooking. Serve with  Egg, Oyster, or Celery Sauce.  It is not desirable to stuff a  boiled fowl.   

   Boiled Capon with Cauliflower Sauce. 

Prepare and cook a  capon  same as Boiled Fowl, and serve surrounded with  Cauliflower Sauce  and garnished with  parsley.   

 

   Chicken à la Providence. 

Prepare and boil a  chicken,  following recipe for Boiled Fowl. The  liquor  should be reduced to two cups, and used for making sauce, with two tablespoons each  butter  and  flour  cooked together. Add to sauce one-half cup each of cooked  carrot  (cut in fancy shapes) and  green peas,  one teaspoon  lemon juice,   yolks two eggs,   salt  and  pepper.  Place  chicken  on hot platter, surround with sauce, and sprinkle  chicken  and sauce with one-half tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.   

   Roast Chicken. 

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a  chicken.  Place on its back on rack in a  dripping-pan,  rub entire surface with  salt,  and spread breast and legs with three tablespoons  butter,  rubbed until creamy and mixed with two tablespoons  flour.  Dredge bottom of pan with  flour.  Place in a hot oven, and when  flour  is well browned, reduce the heat, then baste. Continue basting every ten minutes until  chicken  is cooked. For basting, use one-fourth cup  butter,  melted in two-thirds cup  boiling water,  and after this is gone, use  fat  in pan, and when necessary to prevent  flour  burning, add one cup  boiling water.  During cooking, turn  chicken  frequently, that it may brown evenly. If a thick crust is desired, dredge bird with  flour  two or three times during cooking. If a glazed surface is preferred, spread bird with  butter,  omitting  flour,  and do not dredge during baking. When breast meat is tender, bird is sufficiently cooked. A four pound  chicken  requires about one and one-half hours.  

   Stuffing I. 

  1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 Powdered  sage,   summer savory,  or  marjoram.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 
  Melt  butter  in  water,  and pour over  crackers,  to which seasonings have been added.  

 

   Stuffing II. 

  1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
  Sage  or  Poultry Seasoning.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 2/3 cup  scalded milk.  
 
  Make as Stuffing I.  

   Gravy. 

Pour off  liquid in pan in which chicken has been roasted.  From liquid skim off four tablespoons  fat;  return  fat  to pan and brown with four tablespoons  flour;  add two cups  stock in which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked.  Cook five minutes, season with  salt  and  pepper,  then strain. The remaining fat may be used, in place of butter, for frying potatoes, or for basting when roasting another chicken.   For  Giblet Gravy, 

add to the above,  giblets  ( heart,   liver,  and  gizzard ) finely chopped.   

   Braised Chicken. 

Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound  fowl.  Try out two slices  fat salt pork,  cut one-fourth inch thick; remove scraps and add to  fat  five slices  carrot  cut in small cubes, one-half sliced  onion,  two sprigs  thyme,  one sprig  parsley,  and one  bay leaf,  then cook ten minutes; add two tablespoons  butter,  and fry  fowl,  turning often until surface is well browned. Place on  trivet  in a deep pan, pour over  fat,  and add two cups  boiling water  or  chicken stock.  Cover, and bake in slow oven until tender, basting often, and adding more  water  if needed. Serve with a sauce made from stock in pan, first straining and removing the fat.  

   Chicken Fricassee. 

Dress, clean, and cut up a  fowl.  Put in a kettle, cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly until tender, adding  salt  to  water  when  chicken  is about half done. Remove 
 
 

from  water,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  butter  or  pork fat.  Arrange  chicken  on pieces of dry  toast  placed on a hot platter, having wings and second joints opposite each other, breast in centre of platter, and drumsticks crossed just below second joints. Pour around  White or Brown Sauce.  Reduce stock to two cups, strain, and remove the fat. Melt three tablespoons  butter,  add four tablespoons  flour,  and pour on gradually one and one-half cups  stock.  Just before serving, add one-half cup  cream,  and  salt  and  pepper  to taste; or make a sauce by browning  butter  and  flour  and adding two cups  stock,  then seasoning with  salt  and  pepper.    Fowls,  which are always made tender by long cooking, are frequently utilized in this way. If  chickens  are employed, they are sautéd without previous boiling, and allowed to simmer fifteen to twenty minutes in the sauce.  

   Fried Chicken. 

Fried  chicken  is prepared as Chicken Fricassee, with  Brown Sauce,   chicken  always being used, never fowl.  

   Maryland Chicken. 

Dress, clean, and cut up two  chickens.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  place in a well-greased  dripping-pan,  and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven, basting after first five minutes of cooking with one-third cup  melted butter.  Arrange on platter and pour over two cups  Cream Sauce.   

   Chicken à la Merango. 

Dress, clean, and cut up a  chicken.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  salt pork fat.  Put in a  stewpan,  cover with  sauce,  and cook slowly until  chicken  is tender. Add one-half can  mushrooms  cut in quarters, and cook five minutes. Arrange  chicken  on  serving dish  and pour around  sauce;  garnish with  parsley.   

 

   Sauce. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 tablespoon finely chopped  onion.  
 1 slice  carrot,  cut in cubes. 
 1 slice  turnip,  cut in cubes. 
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  stewed and strained tomato.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Cook  butter  five minutes with vegetables. Add  flour,  with  salt,   pepper,  and  cayenne,  and cook until  flour  is well browned. Add gradually  water  and  tomato;  cook five minutes, then strain.  

   Baked Chicken. 

Dress, clean, and cut up two  chickens.  Place in a  dripping-pan,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and dot over with one-fourth cup  butter.  Bake thirty minutes in a hot oven, basting every five minutes with one-fourth cup  butter  melted in one-fourth cup  boiling water.  Serve with  gravy  made by using  fat  in pan, one-fourth cup  flour,  one cup each  chicken stock  and  cream,   salt  and  pepper.   

   Chicken Gumbo. 

Dress, clean, and cut up a  chicken.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  pork fat.  Fry one-half finely chopped  onion  in  fat  remaining in frying-pan. Add four cups sliced  okra,  sprig of  parsley,  and one-fourth  red pepper  finely chopped, and cook slowly fifteen minutes. Add to  chicken,  with one and one-half cups  tomato,  three cups  boiling water  and one and one-half teaspoons  salt.  Cook slowly until  chicken  is tender, then add one cup  boiled rice.   

   Chicken Stew. 

Dress, clean, and cut up a  fowl.  Put in a  stewpan,  cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly until tender, adding one-half tablespoon  salt  and one-eighth teaspoon 
 
 

 pepper  when  fowl  is about half cooked. Thicken stock with one-third cup  flour  diluted with enough  cold water  to pour easily. Serve with  Dumplings.  If desired richer,  butter  may be added.  

   Chicken Pie. 

Dress, clean, and cut up two  fowls  or  chickens.  Put in a  stewpan  with one-half  onion,  sprig of  parsley,  and bit of  bay leaf;  cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly until tender. When  chicken  is half cooked, add one-half tablespoon  salt  and one-eighth teaspoon  pepper.  Remove  chicken,  strain stock, skim off fat, and then cook until reduced to four cups. Thicken stock with one-third cup  flour  diluted with enough  cold water  to pour easily. Place a small cup in centre of baking-dish, arrange around it pieces of  chicken,  removing some of the larger bones; pour over  gravy,  and cool. Cover with  pie crust,  in which several incisions have been made that there may be an outlet for escape of steam and gases. Wet edge of crust and put around a rim, having rim come close to edge. Bake in a moderate oven until crust is well risen and browned. Roll remnants of  pastry  and cut in diamond-shaped pieces, bake, and serve with pie when reheated. If  puff paste  is used, it is best to bake top separately.  

   Chicken Curry. 

  3 lb.  chicken.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 2  onions.  
 1 tablespoon  curry powder.  
 2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vinegar.  
 
  Clean, dress, and cut  chicken  in pieces for serving. Put  butter  in a hot frying-pan, add  chicken,  and cook ten minutes; then add  liver  and  gizzard  and cook ten minutes longer. Cut  onions  in thin slices, and add to  chicken  with  curry powder  and  salt.  Add enough  boiling water  to cover, and simmer until  chicken  is tender. Remove  chicken;  strain and thicken liquor with  flour  diluted with enough 
 
 

 cold water  to pour easily. Pour gravy over  chicken,  and serve with a border of  rice  or  Turkish Pilaf.   

   Jellied Chicken. 

Dress, clean, and cut up a four-pound  fowl.  Put in a  stewpan  with two slices  onion,  cover with  boiling water,  and cook slowly until meat falls from bones. When half cooked, add one-half tablespoon  salt.  Remove  chicken;  reduce stock to three-fourths cup, strain, and skim off  fat.  Decorate bottom of a mould with  parsley  and slices of  hard boiled eggs.  Pack in meat freed from skin and bone and sprinkled with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour on stock and place mould under heavy weight. Keep in a cold place until firm. In summer it is necessary to add one teaspoon dissolved  granulated gelatine  to stock.  

   Chickens' Liver with Madeira Sauce. 

Clean and separate  livers,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  butter.  Brown two tablespoons  butter,  add two and one-half tablespoons  flour,  and when well browned add gradually one cup  Brown Stock;  then add two tablespoons  Madeira wine,  and reheat  livers  in sauce.  

   Chickens' Liver with Bacon. 

Clean  livers  and cut each  liver  in six pieces. Wrap a thin slice of  bacon  around each piece and fasten with a small  skewer.  Put in a  broiler,  place over a  dripping-pan,  and bake in a hot oven until  bacon  is crisp, turning once during cooking.  

   Sautéd Chickens' Livers. 

Cut one slice  bacon  in small pieces and cook five minutes with two tablespoons  butter.  Remove  bacon,  add one finely chopped  shallot,  and fry two minutes; then add six  chickens' livers  cleaned and separated, and cook two 
 
 

minutes. Add two tablespoons  flour,  one cup  Brown Stock,  one teaspoon  lemon juice,  and one-fourth cup sliced  mushrooms.  Cook two minutes, turn into a  serving dish,  and sprinkle with finely chopped  parsley.   

   Chickens' Livers with Curry. 

Clean and separate  livers.  Dip in seasoned  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and sauté in  butter.  Remove  livers,  and to  fat  in pan add two tablespoons  butter,  one-half tablespoon finely chopped  onion,  and cook five minutes. Add two tablespoons  flour  mixed with one-half teaspoon  curry powder  and one cup stock. Strain sauce over  livers,  and serve around livers  Rice Timbales.   

   Boiled Turkey. 

Prepare and cook same as Boiled Fowl. Serve with  Oyster or Celery Sauce.   

   Roast Turkey. 

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a ten-pound  turkey,  see pages 215-217. Place on its side on rack in a  dripping-pan,  rub entire surface with  salt,  and spread breast, legs, and wings with one-third cup  butter,  rubbed until creamy and mixed with one-fourth cup  flour.  Dredge bottom of pan with  flour.  Place in a hot oven, and when  flour  on  turkey  begins to brown, reduce heat, baste with  fat  in pan, and add two cups  boiling water.  Continue basting every fifteen minutes until  turkey  is cooked, which will require about three hours. For basting, use one-half cup  butter  melted in one-half cup  boiling water,  and after this is used baste with  fat  in pan. During cooking turn  turkey  frequently, that it may brown evenly. If  turkey  is browning too fast, cover with buttered paper to prevent burning. Remove string and  skewers  before serving. Garnish with  parsley  or  celery tips.   
 
 

 For  stuffing,  use double the quantities given in recipes under Roast Chicken. If  stuffing  is to be served cold, add one beaten  egg.   Turkey  is often roasted with  Chestnut Stuffing.   

   Chestnut Stuffing. 

  3 cups  French chestnuts.  
 1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/4 cup  cream.  
 1 cup  cracker crumbs.  
 
  Shell and blanch  chestnuts.  Cook in  boiling salted water  until soft. Drain and mash, using a  potato ricer.  Add one-half the  butter,   salt,   pepper,  and  cream.  Melt remaining  butter,  mix with  cracker crumbs,  then combine mixtures.  

   Gravy. 

Pour off  liquid in pan in which turkey has been roasted.  From liquid skim off six tablespoons  fat;  return  fat  to pan and brown with six tablespoons  flour;  pour on gradually three cups  stock in which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked,  or use liquor left in pan. Cook five minutes, season with  salt  and  pepper;  strain.  For  Giblet Gravy 

add to the above,  giblets  ( heart,   liver,  and  gizzard ) finely chopped.   

   Chestnut Gravy. 

To two cups  thin Turkey Gravy  add three-fourths cup  cooked and mashed chestnuts.   

   To Carve Turkey. 

Bird should be placed on back, with legs at right of platter for carving. Introduce carving fork across breast-bone, hold firmly in left hand, and with  carving knife  in right hand cut through skin between leg and body, close to body. With knife pull back leg and disjoint from body. Then cut off wing. Remove leg and wing from other side. Separate second joints from drum-sticks and divide wings 
 
 

at joints. Carve breast meat in thin crosswise slices. Under back on either side of backbone may be found two small, oyster-shaped pieces of dark meat, which are dainty tidbits.    Chicken and fowl  

are carved in the same way.  For a small family carve but one side of a  turkey,  that remainder may be left in better condition for second serving.  

   Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing. 

Singe, remove pinfeathers, wash and scrub a  goose  in hot soapsuds; then draw (which is removing inside contents). Wash in  cold water  and wipe. Stuff, truss, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and lay six thin  s  fat salt pork  over  breast.  Place on rack in  dripping-pan,  put in hot oven and bake two hours. Baste every fifteen minutes with  fat  in pan. Remove  pork  last half-hour of cooking. Place on platter, cut string, and remove string and  skewers.  Garnish with watercress and bright red  cranberries,  and place  Potato Apples  between pieces of watercress. Serve with  Apple Sauce.   

   Potato Stuffing. 

  2 cups  hot mashed potato.  
 1 1/4 cups  soft stale bread crumbs.  
 1/4 cup finely chopped  fat salt pork.  
 1 finely chopped  onion.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1  egg.  
 1 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  sage.  
 
  Add to  potato,   bread crumbs,   butter,   egg,   salt,  and  sage;  then add  pork  and  onion.   

   To Truss a Goose. 

A  goose,  having short legs, is trussed differently from chicken, fowl, and turkey. After inserting  skewers,  wind string twice around one leg bone, then around other leg bone, having one inch space of string between legs. Draw legs with both ends of string, close to back, cross string under back, then fasten around  skewers  and tie in a knot.  

 

   Roast Wild Duck. 

Dress and clean a  wild duck  and truss as goose. Place on rack in  dripping-pan,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and cover breast with two very thin slices  fat salt pork.  Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a very hot oven, basting every five minutes with  fat  in pan; cut string and remove string and  skewers.  Serve with  Orange or Olive Sauce.   Currant jelly  should accompany a  duck  course.  Domestic ducks  should always be well cooked, requiring little more than twice the time allowed for  wild ducks.    Ducks  are sometimes stuffed with  apples,  pared, cored, and cut in quarters, or three small  onions  may be put in body of  duck  to improve flavor. Neither  apples  nor  onions  are to be served. If a  stuffing  to be eaten is desired, cover pieces of  dry bread  with  boiling water;  as soon as  bread  has absorbed  water,  press out the  water;  season  bread  with  salt,   pepper,   melted butter,  and finely-chopped  onion.   

   Braised Duck. 

Tough  ducks  are sometimes steamed one hour, and then braised in same manner as chicken.  

   Broiled Quail. 

Follow recipe for Broiling Chicken, allowing eight minutes for cooking. Serve on pieces of  toast,  and garnish with  parsley  and thin slices of  lemon.   Currant jelly  or  Rice Croquettes with Jelly  should accompany this course.  

   Roast Quail. 

Dress, clean, lard, and truss a  quail.  Bake same as Larded Grouse, allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for cooking.  

   Larded Grouse. 

Clean, remove pinions, and if it be tough the skin covering breast. Lard breast and insert two  lardoons  in each leg. 
 
 

Truss, and place on  trivet  in small shallow pan; rub with  salt,  brush over with  melted butter,  dredge with  flour,  and surround with  trimmings of fat salt pork.  Bake twenty to twenty-five minutes in a hot oven, basting three times. Arrange on platter, remove string and  skewers,  pour around  Bread Sauce,  and sprinkle bird and sauce with  coarse browned bread crumbs.  Garnish with  parsley.   

   Broiled or Roasted Plover. 

Plover is broiled or roasted same as  quail.   

   Potted Pigeons. 

Clean, stuff, and truss six  pigeons,  place upright in a  stewpan,  and add one quart  boiling water in which celery has been cooked.  Cover, and cook slowly three hours or until tender; or cook in oven in a covered earthen dish. Remove from  water,  cool slightly, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and brown entire surface in  pork fat.  Make a sauce with one-fourth cup each  butter  and  flour  cooked together and stock remaining in pan; there should be two cups. Place each bird on a slice of  dry toast,  and pour  gravy  over all. Garnish with  parsley.   

   Stuffing. 

  1 cup  hot riced potatoes.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/4 teaspoon  marjoram  or  summer savory.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/4 cup  soft stale bread crumbs  soaked in some of the  celery water  and wrung in  cheese cloth.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given.  

   Broiled Venison Steak. 

Follow recipe for Broiled Beefsteak. Serve with  Maître d'Hôtel Butter.   Venison  should always be cooked rare.  

 

   Venison Cutlets. 

Clean and trim  slices of venison cut from loin.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  brush over with  melted butter  or  olive oil,  and roll in  soft stale bread crumbs.  Place in a  broiler  and broil five minutes, or sauté in  butter.  Serve with  Port Wine Sauce.   

   Roast Leg of Venison. 

Prepare and cook as Roast Lamb, allowing less time that it may be cooked rare.  

   Saddle of Venison. 

Clean and lard a  saddle of venison.  Cook same as Saddle of Mutton. Serve with  Currant Jelly Sauce.   

 
 WAYS OF WARMING OVER POULTRY AND GAME. 
   Creamed Chicken. 

  1 1/2 cups  cold cooked chicken  cut in dice. 
 1 cup  White Sauce II.  
 1/8 teaspoon  celery-salt.  
 
  Heat  chicken  dice in  sauce,  to which  celery salt  has been added.  

   Creamed Chicken with Mushrooms. 

Add to  Creamed Chicken  one-fourth cup  mushrooms  cut in slices.  

   Chicken with Potato Border. 

Serve  Creamed Chicken  in  Potato Border.   

   Chicken in Baskets. 

To three cups  hot mashed potatoes  add three tablespoons  butter,  one teaspoon  salt,   yolks of three eggs  slightly beaten, and enough  milk  to moisten. Shape 
 
 

in form of small baskets, using a pastry-bag and tube. Brush over with  white of egg  slightly beaten, and brown in oven. Fill with  Creamed Chicken.  Form handles for baskets of  parsley.   

   Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 2 cups  cream.  
 2 cups  cold cooked chicken  cut in dice. 
 1 pint  oysters  cleaned and drained. 
 1/3 cup finely chopped  celery.  
 
  Make a  sauce  of first five ingredients, add  chicken  dice and  oysters;  cook until  oysters  are plump. Serve sprinkled with  celery.   

   Luncheon Chicken. 

  1 1/2 cups  cold cooked chicken  cut in small dice. 
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 slice  carrot  cut in small cubes. 
 1 slice  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  chicken stock.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 2/3 cup  buttered cracker crumbs.  
 4  eggs.  
 
  Cook  butter  five minutes with vegetables, add  flour,  and gradually the stock. Strain, add  chicken  dice, and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Turn on a slightly buttered platter and sprinkle with  cracker crumbs.  Make four nests, and in each nest slip an  egg;  cover  eggs  with  crumbs,  and bake in a moderate oven until whites of eggs are firm.  

   Blanquette of Chicken. 

  2 cups  cold cooked chicken  cut in  s. 
 1 cup  White Sauce II.  
 1 tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 
  Add  chicken  to  sauce;  when well heated, add  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten, diluted with  milk.  Cook two minutes, then add  parsley.   

 

   Scalloped Chicken. 

Butter a baking-dish. Arrange alternate layers of  cold cooked sliced chicken  and  boiled macaroni or rice.  Pour over  White, Brown, or Tomato Sauce,  cover with  buttered cracker crumbs,  and bake in a hot oven until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Mock Terrapin. 

  1 1/2 cups  cold cooked chicken or veal  cut in dice. 
 1 cup  White Sauce I.  
  Yolks 2 hard boiled eggs  finely chopped. 
  Whites 2 hard boiled eggs,  chopped. 
 3 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Add to  sauce,   chicken,   yolks and whites of eggs,   salt,  and  cayenne;  cook two minutes, and add  wine.   

   Chicken Chartreuse. 

Prepare and cook same as Casserole of Rice and Meat, using  chicken  in place of lamb or veal. Season  chicken  with  salt,   pepper,   celery salt,   onion juice,  and one-half teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.   

   Chicken Soufflé. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/2 cup  stale soft bread crumbs.  
 2 cups  cold cooked chicken  finely chopped. 
  Yolks 3 eggs  well beaten. 
 1 tablespoon finely-chopped  parsley.  
  Whites 3 eggs  beaten stiff. 
 
  Make a  sauce  of first five ingredients, add  bread crumbs,  and cook two minutes; remove from fire, add  chicken,   yolks of eggs,  and  parsley,  then fold in  whites of eggs.  Turn in a buttered  pudding-dish,  and bake thirty-five minutes in a slow oven. Serve with  White Mushroom Sauce.     Veal  

may be used in place of chicken.   

 

   Chicken Hollandaise. 

  1 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 1 cup  chicken stock.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 1/4 cup finely chopped  celery.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  paprika.  
 1 cup  cold cooked chicken,  cut in small cubes. 
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 
  Cook  butter  and  onion  five minutes, add  corn-starch  and stock gradually. Add  lemon juice,   celery,   salt,   paprika,  and  chicken;  when well heated, add  yolk of egg  slightly beaten, and cook one minute. Serve with  buttered Graham toast.   

   Scalloped Turkey. 

Make one cup of sauce, using two tablespoons  butter,  two tablespoons  flour,  one-fourth teaspoon  salt,  few grains of  pepper,  and one cup  stock  (obtained by cooking in  water   bones and skin of a roast turkey ). Cut  remnants of cold roast turkey  in small pieces; there should be one and one-half cups. Sprinkle bottom of buttered baking-dish with  seasoned cracker crumbs,  add  turkey meat,  pour over  sauce,  and sprinkle with  buttered cracker crumbs.  Bake in a hot oven until  crumbs  are brown.  Turkey,   chicken,  or  veal  may be used separately or in combination.  

   Minced Turkey. 

To one cup  cold roast turkey,  cut in small dice, add one-third cup  soft stale bread crumbs.  Make one cup sauce, using two tablespoons  butter,  two tablespoons  flour,  and one cup  stock  (obtained by cooking  bones and skin of a roast turkey ). Season with  salt,   pepper,  and  onion juice.  Heat  turkey  and  bread crumbs  in sauce. Serve on small pieces of  toast,  and garnish with  poached eggs  and  toast points.   

 

   Salmi of Duck. 

Cut  cold roast duck  in pieces for serving. Reheat in  Spanish Sauce.     Spanish Sauce. 

Melt one-fourth cup  butter,  add one tablespoon finely chopped  onion,  a stalk of  celery,  two slices  carrot  cut in pieces, and two tablespoons finely chopped  lean raw ham.  Cook until  butter  is brown, then add one-fourth cup  flour,  and when well browned add two cups  Consommé,  bit of  bay leaf,  sprig of  parsley,  blade of  mace,  two  cloves,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  and one-eighth teaspoon  pepper;  cook five minutes. Strain, add  duck,  and when reheated add  sherry wine,  stoned  olives,  and  mushrooms  cut in quarters. Arrange on dish for serving, and garnish with  olives  and  mushrooms.      Grouse  

may be used in place of duck.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XVII. 
 FISH AND MEAT SAUCES. 
 THE French chef keeps always on hand four sauces,--White, Brown, Béchamel, and Tomato,--and with these as a basis is able to make kinds innumerable. Butter and flour are usually cooked together for thickening sauces. When not browned, it is called  roux;  when browned,  brown roux.  The French mix butter and flour together, put in saucepan, place over fire, stir for five minutes; set aside to cool, again place over fire, and add liquid, stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Butter and flour for brown sauces are cooked together much longer, and watched carefully lest butter should burn. The American cook makes sauce by stirring butter in saucepan until melted and bubbling, adds flour and continues stirring, then adds liquid, gradually stirring or beating until the boiling point is reached. For Brown Sauce, butter should be stirred until well browned; flour should be added and stirred with butter until both are browned before the addition of liquid. The secret in making a Brown Sauce is to have butter and flour well browned before adding liquid.  It is well worth remembering that a sauce of average thickness is made by allowing two tablespoons each of butter and flour to one cup liquid, whether it be milk, stock, or tomato. For Brown Sauce a slightly larger quantity of flour is necessary, as by browning flour its thickening property is lessened, its starch being changed to dextrine. When sauces are set away, put a few bits of butter on top to prevent crust from forming.  
 
 

   Thin White Sauce. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Put  butter  in saucepan, stir until melted and bubbling; add  flour  mixed with seasonings, and stir until thoroughly blended. Pour on gradually the  milk,  adding about one-third at a time, stirring until well mixed, then beating until smooth and glossy. If a  wire whisk  is used, all the  milk  may be added at once; and although more quickly made if  milk  is scalded, it is not necessary.  

   Cream Sauce. 

Make same as Thin White Sauce, using  cream  instead of milk.  

   White Sauce I. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Make same as Thin White Sauce.  

   White Sauce II. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Make same as Thin White Sauce.  

   Thick White Sauce (for Cutlets and Croquettes). 

  2 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  corn-starch  or 
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Make same as Thin White Sauce.  

   Sauce Allemande. 

To two cups  Velouté Sauce  add one-half tablespoon  lemon juice  and  yolk one egg.   

 

   Velouté Sauce. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  White Stock.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Make same as Thin White Sauce.  

   Soubise Sauce. 

  2 cups sliced  onions.  
 1 cup  Velouté Sauce.  
 1/2 cup  cream  or  milk.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cover  onions  with  boiling water,  cook five minutes, drain, again cover with  boiling water,  and cook until soft; drain, and rub through a sieve. Add to sauce with  cream.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve with mutton or pork chops.  

   Drawn Butter Sauce. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 1/2 cups  hot water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Melt one-half the  butter,  add  flour  with seasonings, and pour on gradually  hot water.  Boil five minutes, and add remaining  butter  in small pieces. To be served with boiled or baked fish.  

   Shrimp Sauce. 

To  Drawn Butter Sauce  add one  egg yolk  and one-half can  shrimps  cleaned and cut in pieces.  

   Caper Sauce. 

To  Drawn Butter Sauce  add one-half cup  capers  drained from their liquor. Serve with boiled mutton.  

   Egg Sauce I. 

To  Drawn Butter Sauce  add two  hard boiled eggs  cut in one-fourth inch slices.  

 

   Egg Sauce II. 

To  Drawn Butter Sauce  add beaten  yolks of two eggs  and one teaspoon  lemon juice.   

   Brown Sauce I. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 slice  onion.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  Brown Stock.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Cook  onion  in  butter  until slightly browned; remove  onion  and stir  butter  constantly until well browned; add  flour  mixed with seasonings, and brown the  butter  and  flour;  then add stock gradually.  

   Brown Sauce II. (Espagnole). 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 slice  carrot.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 Sprig of  thyme.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 6  peppercorns.  
 5 tablespoons  flour.  
 2 cups  Brown Stock.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cook  butter  with  carrot,   onion,   bay leaf,   thyme,   parsley,  and  peppercorns,  until brown; add  flour,  and when well browned, add stock gradually, strain, and season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Brown Mushroom Sauce I. 

To one cup  Brown Sauce  add one-fourth can  mushrooms,  drained, rinsed, and cut in quarters or slices.  

   Brown Mushroom Sauce II. 

  1 can  mushrooms.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2 cups  Consommé  or  Brown Stock.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Drain and rinse  mushrooms  and chop finely one-half of same. Cook five minutes with  butter  and  lemon juice;  drain, brown the  butter,  add  flour,  and when well browned, 
 
 

add gradually  Consommé.  Cook fifteen minutes, skim, add remaining  mushrooms  cut in quarters or slices, and cook two minutes. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Sauce Piquante. 

To one cup  Brown Sauce  add one tablespoon  vinegar,  one-half small  shallot  finely chopped, one tablespoon each chopped  capers  and  pickle,  and a few grains of  cayenne.   

   Olive Sauce. 

Remove stones from ten  olives,  leaving meat in one piece. Cover with  boiling water  and cook five minutes. Drain  olives,  and add to two cups  Brown Sauce I. or II.   

   Orange Sauce. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 1/3 cups  Brown Stock.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Juice 2 oranges.  
 2 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
  Rind of 1 orange  cut in fancy shapes. 
 
  Brown the  butter,  add  flour,  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and stir until well browned. Add stock gradually, and just before serving,  orange juice,   sherry,  and pieces of  rind.   

   Sauce à l'Italienne. 

   Onion,         } 
  Carrot,        } 2 tablespoons each, finely chopped. 
  Lean raw ham,  } 
 12  peppercorns.  
 2  cloves.  
 Sprig  marjoram.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  Brown Stock.  
 1 1/4 cups  white wine.  
 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 
  Cook first six ingredients with  butter  five minutes, add  flour,  and stir until well browned; then add gradually stock and  wine.  Strain, reheat, and after pouring around fish sprinkle with  parsley.   

 

   Champagne Sauce. 

Simmer two cups  Espagnole Sauce  until reduced to one and one-half cups. Add two tablespoons  mushroom liquor,  one-half cup  champagne,  and one tablespoon  powdered sugar.   

   Tomato Sauce I. (without Stock). 

  1/2 can  tomatoes  or 
 1 3/4 cups fresh  stewed tomatoes.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Cook  onion  with  tomatoes  fifteen minutes, rub through a strainer, and add to  butter  and  flour  (to which seasonings have been added) cooked together. If  tomatoes  are very acid, add a few grains of  soda.   

   Tomato Sauce II. 

  1/2 can  tomatoes.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 8  peppercorns.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 4 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  Brown Stock.  
 
  Cook  tomatoes  twenty minutes with  sugar,   peppercorns,   bay leaf,  and  salt;  rub through a strainer, and add stock. Brown the  butter,  add  flour,  and when well browned, gradually add hot liquid.  

   Tomato Sauce III. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 slice  carrot.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 Sprig of  thyme.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 1 cup  stewed and strained tomatoes.  
 1 cup  Brown Stock.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 
  Brown the  butter  with  carrot,   onion,   bay leaf,   thyme,  and  parsley;  remove seasonings, add  flour,  stir until well browned, then add  tomatoes  and stock.  

 

   Tomato and Mushroom Sauce. 

  2 slices chopped  bacon  or small quantity  uncooked ham.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 6 slices  carrot.  
 1  bay leaf.  
 2 sprigs  thyme.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 2  cloves.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 can  tomatoes.  
 1 1/2 cups  Brown Stock.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 1/2 can  mushrooms.  
 
   French Chef.   Cook  bacon,   onion,  and  carrot  five minutes; add  bay leaf,   thyme,   parsley,   cloves,   peppercorns,   nutmeg,  and  tomatoes,  and cook five minutes. Add  flour  diluted with enough  cold water  to pour; as it thickens, dilute with stock. Cover, and cook in oven one hour. Strain, add  salt  and  pepper  to taste, and one-half can  mushrooms,  drained from their liquor, rinsed, and cut in quarters; then cook two minutes.  

   Tomato Cream Sauce. 

  1/2 can  tomatoes.  
 Sprig of  thyme.  
 1 stalk  celery.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 1 cup  White Sauce I.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
 
  Cook  tomatoes  twenty minutes with seasonings; rub through a strainer, add  soda,  then  White Sauce.  Serve with Baked Fish or Lobster Cutlets.  

   Spanish Sauce. 

  2 tablespoons finely chopped  lean raw ham.  
 2 tablespoons chopped  celery.  
 2 tablespoons chopped  carrot.  
 1 tablespoon chopped  onion.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 1/3 cups  Brown Stock.  
 2/3 cup  stewed and strained tomatoes.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cook  ham  and vegetables with  butter  until  butter  is well browned; add  flour,  stock, and  tomatoes;  cook five minutes, then strain. Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

 

   Béchamel Sauce. 

  1 1/2 cups  White Stock.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1 slice  carrot.  
 Bit of  bay leaf.  
 Sprig of  parsley.  
 6  peppercorns.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Cook stock twenty minutes with  onion,   carrot,   bay leaf,   parsley,  and  peppercorns,  then strain; there should be one cupful. Melt the  butter,  add  flour,  and gradually hot stock and  milk.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Yellow Béchamel Sauce. 

To two cups  Béchamel Sauce  add  yolks of three eggs  slightly beaten, first diluting  eggs  with small quantity of  hot sauce.   

   Oyster Sauce. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  milk  or  chicken stock.  
  Salt.   
  Pepper.  
  Oyster liquor.  
 
  Wash  oysters,  reserve liquor, heat, strain, add  oysters,  and cook until plump. Remove  oysters,  and make a sauce of  butter,   flour,   oyster liquor,  and  milk.  Add  oysters,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.   

   Cucumber Sauce. 

Grate two  cucumbers,  drain, and season with  salt,   pepper,  and  vinegar.  Serve with Broiled Fish.  

   Celery Sauce. 

  3 cups  celery  cut in small pieces. 
 2 cups  Thin White Sauce.  
 
  Wash and scrape  celery  before cutting into pieces. Cook in  boiling salted water  until soft, drain, rub through a sieve, and add to  sauce.   Celery sauce  is often made from the  stock in which a fowl or turkey has been boiled.   

 

   Suprême Sauce. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 cups  hot chicken stock.  
 1/2 cup  hot cream.  
 1 tablespoon  mushroom liquor.  
 3/4 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Make same as Thin White Sauce, and add seasonings.  

   Anchovy Sauce. 

Season  Brown, Drawn Butter, or Hollandaise Sauce  with  Anchovy essence.   

   Maître d'Hôtel Butter. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 3/4 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Put  butter  in a bowl, and with small wooden spoon work until creamy. Add  salt,   pepper,  and  parsley,  then  lemon juice  very slowly.  

   Tartar Sauce. 

  1 tablespoon  vinegar.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  Worcestershire Sauce.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 
   The Boston Cook Book.   Mix  vinegar,   lemon juice,   salt,  and  Worcestershire Sauce  in a small bowl, and heat over  hot water.  Brown the  butter  in an  omelet pan  and strain into first mixture.  

   Lemon Butter. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  and add slowly  lemon juice.   

   Anchovy Butter. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
  Anchovy essence.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  and add  Anchovy essence  to taste.  

 

   Lobster Butter. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
  Lobster coral.  
 
  Clean, wipe, and force coral through a fine sieve. Put in a  mortar  with  butter,  and pound until well blended. This  butter  is used in Lobster Soup and Sauces to give color and richness.  

   Hollandaise Sauce I. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/3 cup  boiling water.  
 
  Put  butter  in a bowl, cover with  cold water  and wash, using a spoon. Divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with  yolks of eggs  and  lemon juice,  place saucepan in a larger one containing  boiling water,  and stir constantly with a  wire whisk  until  butter  is melted; then add second piece of  butter,  and, as it thickens, third piece. Add  water,  cook one minute, remove from fire, then add  salt  and  cayenne.   

   Hollandaise Sauce II. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1/2 tablespoon  vinegar.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
   French Chef.   Wash  butter,  divide in three pieces. Put one piece in a saucepan with  vinegar  and  egg yolks;  place saucepan in a larger one containing  boiling water,  and stir constantly with a  wire whisk.  Add second piece of  butter,  and, as it thickens, third piece. Remove from fire, and add  salt  and  cayenne.  If left over fire a moment too long it will separate.  If a richer sauce is desired, add one-half teaspoon  hot water  and one-half tablespoon  heavy cream.    

   Lobster Sauce I. 

To  Hollandaise Sauce I.  add one-third cup  lobster meat  cut in small dice.  

 

   Lobster Sauce II. 

  1 1/4 lb.  lobster.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 3 cups  cold water.  
 
  Remove meat from  lobster,  and cut tender  claw meat  in one-half inch dice. Chop remaining meat, add to  body bones,  and cover with  water;  cook until stock is reduced to two cups, strain, and add gradually to  butter  and  flour  cooked together, then add  salt,   cayenne,   lemon juice,  and  lobster dice.   If the  lobster  contains  coral,  prepare  Lobster Butter,  add  flour,  and thicken sauce therewith.  

   Sauce Béarnaise. 

To  Hollandaise Sauce II.  add one teaspoon each of finely chopped  parsley  and fresh  tarragon.   Served with mutton chops, steaks, broiled squabs, smelts, or boiled salmon.  

   Sauce Trianon. 

To  Hollandaise Sauce II.  add gradually, while cooking, one and one-half tablespoons  sherry wine.   

   Sauce Figaro. 

To  Hollandaise Sauce II.  add two tablespoons  tomato purée  ( tomatoes  stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp), one teaspoon finely chopped  parsley,  and a few grains  cayenne.   

   Horseradish Sauce I. 

  3 tablespoons grated  horseradish root.  
 1 tablespoon  vinegar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 4 tablespoons  heavy cream.  
 
  Mix first four ingredients, and add  cream  beaten stiff.  

 

   Horseradish Sauce II. 

  3 tablespoons  cracker crumbs.  
 1/3 cup grated  horseradish root.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 
  Cook first three ingredients twenty minutes in  double boiler.  Add  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Bread Sauce. 

  2 cups  milk.  
 1/2 cup fine  stale bread crumbs.  
 1  onion.  
 6  cloves.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 cup coarse  stale bread crumbs.  
 
  Cook  milk  thirty minutes in  double boiler,  with fine  bread crumbs  and  onion  stuck with  cloves.  Remove  onion,  add  salt,   cayenne,  and two tablespoons  butter.  Usually served poured around roast partridge or grouse, and sprinkled with coarse  crumbs  browned in remaining  butter.   

   Rice Sauce. 

  3 tablespoons  rice.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 1/2  onion.  
 3  cloves.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Wash  rice,  add to  milk,  and cook in  double boiler  until soft. Rub through a fine strainer, return to  double boiler,  add  onion  stuck with  cloves,  and cook fifteen minutes. Remove  onion,  add  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Cauliflower Sauce. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  hot chicken stock.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
  Cooked flowerets from a small cauliflower.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 
  Make same as Thin White Sauce and add flowerets.  

 

   Mint Sauce. 

  1/4 cup finely chopped  mint leaves.  
 1/2 cup  vinegar.  
 1 tablespoon  powdered sugar.  
 
  Add  sugar  to  vinegar;  when dissolved, pour over  mint  and let stand thirty minutes on back of range to infuse. If  vinegar  is very strong, dilute with  water.   

   Currant Jelly Sauce. 

To one cup  Brown Sauce,  from which  onion  has been omitted, add one-fourth tumbler  currant jelly  and one tablespoon  sherry wine;  or, add  currant jelly  to one cup  gravy  made to serve with roast lamb. Currant Jelly Sauce is suitable to serve with lamb.  

   Port Wine Sauce. 

To one cup  Brown Sauce,  from which onion has been omitted, add one-eighth tumbler  currant jelly,  two tablespoons  port wine,  and a few grains  cayenne.   

   Sauce Tartare. 

  1/2 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  olive oil.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
  Capers,   } 
  Pickles,  } 1/2 tablespoon each, 
  Olives,   }   finely chopped. 
  Parsley,  } 
 1/2  shallot  finely chopped. 
 1/4 teaspoon powdered  tarragon.  
 
  Mix  mustard,   sugar,   salt,  and  cayenne;  add  yolks of eggs,  and stir until thoroughly mixed, setting bowl in pan of  ice water.  Add  oil,  at first drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or  wire whisk.  As mixture thickens, dilute with  vinegar,  when  oil  may be added more rapidly. Keep in cool place until ready to serve, then add remaining ingredients.  

 

   Sauce Tyrolienne. 

To three-fourths cup  Mayonnaise  add one-half tablespoon each finely chopped  capers  and  parsley,  one finely chopped  gherkin,  and one-half can  tomatoes,  stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to two tablespoons. Serve with any kind of fried fish.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XIX. 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Table showing Composition of Vegetables. 
 
 
 Articles. 
 Proteid. 
 Fat. 
 Carbohydrates. 
 Mineral matter. 
 Water. 
 
 
 Artichokes............. 
 2.6 
 .2 
 16.7 
 1. 
 79.5 
 
 
 Asparagus.............. 
 1.8 
 .2 
 3.3 
 1. 
 94. 
 
 
 Beans, Lima, green..... 
 7.1 
 .7 
 22. 
 1.7 
 68.5 
 
 
  "  green string....... 
 2.2 
 .4 
 9.4 
 .7 
 87.3 
 
 
 Beets.................. 
 1.6 
 .1 
 9.6 
 1.1 
 87.6 
 
 
 Brussels sprouts....... 
 4.7 
 1.1 
 4.3 
 1.7 
 88.2 
 
 
 Cabbage................ 
 2.1 
 .4 
 5.8 
 1.4 
 90.3 
 
 
 Carrots................ 
 1.1 
 .4 
 9.2 
 1.1 
 88.2 
 
 
 Cauliflower............ 
 1.6 
 .8 
 6. 
 .8 
 90.8 
 
 
 Celery................. 
 1.4 
 .1 
 3. 
 1.1 
 94.4 
 
 
 Corn, green, sweet..... 
 2.8 
 1.1 
 14.1 
 .7 
 81.3 
 
 
 Cucumbers.............. 
 .8 
 .2 
 2.5 
 .5 
 96. 
 
 
 Egg-plant.............. 
 1.2 
 .3 
 5.1 
 .5 
 92.9 
 
 
 Kohl-rabi.............. 
 2. 
 .1 
 5.5 
 1.3 
 91.1 
 
 
 Lettuce................ 
 1.3 
 .4 
 3.3 
 1. 
 94. 
 
 
 Okra................... 
 2. 
 .4 
 9.5 
 .7 
 87.4 
 
 
 Onions................. 
 4.4 
 .8 
 .5 
 1.2 
 93.5 
 
 
 Parsnips............... 
 1.7 
 .6 
 16.1 
 1.7 
 79.9 
 
 
 Peas, green............ 
 4.4 
 .5 
 16.1 
 .9 
 78.1 
 
 
 Potatoes, sweet........ 
 1.8 
 .7 
 27.1 
 1.1 
 69.3 
 
 
    "     white......... 
 2.1 
 .1 
 18. 
 .9 
 78.9 
 
 
 Spinach................ 
 2.1 
 .5 
 3.1 
 1.9 
 92.4 
 
 
 Squash................. 
 1.6 
 .6 
 10.4 
 .9 
 86.5 
 
 
 Tomatoes............... 
 .8 
 .4 
 3.9 
 .5 
 94.4 
 
 
 Turnips................ 
 1.4 
 .2 
 8.7 
 .8 
 88.9 
  
 W.O. Atwater, Ph.D.  
 Vegetables include, commonly though not botanically speaking, all plants used for food except grains and fruits. 
 
 

With exception of beans, peas, and lentils, which contain a large amount of proteid, they are chiefly valuable for their potash salts, and should form a part of each day's dietary. Many contain much cellulose, which gives needed bulk to the food. The legumes, peas, beans, and lentils may be used in place of flesh food.  For the various vegetables different parts of the plant are used. Some are eaten in the natural state, others are cooked. 
 
 
 Tubers. 
 White potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes. 
 
 
 Roots. 
 Beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, sweet potatoes, salsify or oyster plant, and turnips. 
 
 
 Bulbs. 
 Garlic, onions, and shallots. 
 
 
 Stems. 
 Asparagus, celery, and chives. 
 
 
 Leaves. 
 Brussels sprouts, beets greens, cabbages, dandelions, lettuce, sorrel, spinach, and watercress. 
 
 
 Flowers. 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 
 Fruit. 
 Beans, corn, cucumbers, okra, egg-plant, peas, lentils, squash, and tomatoes. 
  
 Young, tender vegetables,--as lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, water-cress, and tomatoes,--eaten uncooked, served separately or combined in salads, help to stimulate a flagging appetite, and when dressed with oil furnish considerable nutriment.  Beans, and peas when old, should be employed in making purées and soups; by so doing, the outer covering of cellulose, so irritating to the stomach, is removed. 
 
 Care of Vegetables. 
 Summer vegetables should be cooked as soon after gathering as possible; in case they must be kept, spread on bottom of cool, dry, well-ventilated cellar, or place in  ice-box.  Lettuce may be best kept by sprinkling with cold water and placing in a tin pail closely covered. Wilted vegetables may be freshened by allowing to stand in cold water. Vegetables which contain sugar lose some of their sweetness by standing; corn and peas are more 
 
 

quickly affected than others. Winter vegetables should be kept in a cold, dry place. Beets, carrots, turnips, potatoes, etc., should be put in barrels or piled in bins, to exclude as much air as possible. Squash should be spread, and needs careful watching; when dark spots appear, cook at once.  In using canned goods, empty contents from can as soon as opened, lest the acid therein act on the tin to produce poisonous compounds, and let stand one hour, that it may become reoxygenated. Beans, peas, asparagus, etc., should be emptied into a strainer, drained, and cold water poured over them and allowed to run through. In using dried vegetables, soak in cold water several hours before cooking. A few years ago native vegetables were alone sold; but now our markets are largely supplied from the Southern States and California, thus allowing us fresh vegetables throughout the year.  
 
 Cooking of Vegetables. 
 A small  scrubbing-brush,  which may be bought for five cents, and two small pointed knives for preparing vegetables should be found in every kitchen.  Vegetables should be washed in cold water, and cooked until soft in boiling salted water; if cooked in an uncovered vessel, their color is better kept. For peas and beans add salt to water last half hour of cooking. Time for cooking the same vegetable varies according to freshness and age, therefore time-tables for cooking serve only as guides.  
 
 Mushrooms and Truffles. 
 These are classed among vegetables. Mushrooms, which grow about us abundantly, may be easily gathered, and as they contain considerable nutriment, should often be found on the table. While there are hundreds of varieties, one by a little study may acquaint herself with a dozen or more of the most common ones which 
 
 

are valuable as food. Consult W. Hamilton Gibson, "Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms." Many might cause illness, but only a few varieties of the  Amanita  family are deadly poison. Mushrooms require heat and moisture,-- a severe drought or very wet soil being unfavorable for their growth. Never gather mushrooms in the vicinity of decaying matter. They appear the middle of May, and last until frost comes.  Campestris  is the variety always found in market; French canned are of this family.  Boleti  are dried, canned, and sold as  cepes.   
 
 Truffles. 
 Truffles belong to the same family as mushrooms, and are grown underground. France is the most famous field for their production, from which country they are exported in tin cans, and are too expensive for ordinary use.  
 
 Artichokes. 
 French artichokes, imported throughout the year, are the ones principally used. They retail from thirty to forty cents each, and are cheapest and best in November, December, and January. Jerusalem artichokes are employed for pickling, and can be bought for fifteen cents per quart. 
   Boiled Artichokes. 

Cut off stem close to leaves, remove outside bottom leaves, trim  artichoke,  cut off one inch from top of leaves, and with a sharp knife remove choke; then tie  artichoke  with a string to keep its shape. Soak one-half hour in  cold water.  Drain, and cook thirty to forty-five minutes in  boiling, salted, acidulated water.  Remove from  water,  place upside down to drain, then take off string. Serve with  Béchamel or Hollandaise Sauce.  Boiled Artichokes often constitute a course at dinner. Leaves are drawn out separately with fingers, dipped in  sauce,  and fleshy ends 
 
 

only eaten, although the bottom is edible.   Artichokes  may be cut in quarters, cooked, drained, and served with  Sauce Béarnaise.  When prepared in this way they are served with mutton.   

   Fried Artichokes. 

Sprinkle  Boiled Artichokes  cut in quarters with  salt,   pepper,  and finely chopped  parsley.  Dip in  Batter I.,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. In preparing  artichokes,  trim off tops of leaves closer than when served as Boiled  Artichokes.   

   Artichoke Bottoms. 

Remove all leaves and the choke. Trim bottoms in shape, and cook until soft in  boiling, salted, acidulated water.  Serve with  Hollandaise or Béchamel Sauce.   

   Stuffed Artichokes. 

Prepare and cook as Boiled  Artichokes,  having them slightly underdone. Fill with  Chicken Force-meat I. or II.,  and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven, basting twice with  Thin White Sauce.  Remove to  serving-dish  and pour around them  Thin White Sauce.   

 
 
 Asparagus. 
 Hothouse asparagus is found in market during winter, but is not very satisfactory, and is sold for about one dollar per bunch. Oyster Bay (white asparagus) appears first of May, and commands a very high price. Large and small green stalk asparagus is in season from first of June to middle of July, and cheapest the middle of June. 
   Boiled Asparagus. 

Cut off lower parts of stalks as far down as they will snap, untie bunches, wash, remove scales, and retie. Cook in  boiling salted water  fifteen minutes or until soft, 
 
 

leaving tips out of  water  first ten minutes. Drain, remove string, and spread with soft  butter,  allowing one and one-half tablespoons  butter  to each bunch  asparagus.   Asparagus  is often broken in inch pieces for boiling, cooking tips a shorter time than stalks.  

   Asparagus on Toast. 

Serve  Boiled Asparagus  on  Buttered or Milk Toast.   

   Asparagus in White Sauce. 

Boil  asparagus  cut in one-inch pieces, drain, and add to  White Sauce I.,  allowing one cup  sauce  to each bunch  asparagus.   

   Asparagus à la Hollandaise. 

Pour  Hollandaise Sauce I.  over  Boiled Asparagus.   

   Asparagus in Crusts. 

Remove centres from small  rolls,  fry shells in deep  fat,  drain, and fill with  Asparagus in White Sauce.   

 
 
 Beans. 
  String Beans  that are obtainable in winter come from California; natives appear in market the last of June and continue until the last of September. There are two varieties, green (pole cranberry being best flavored) and yellow (butter bean).   Shell Beans,  including horticultural and sieva, are sold in the pod or shelled, five quarts in pod making one quart shelled. They are found in market during July and August. Common lima and improved lima shell beans are in season in August and September. Dried lima beans are procurable throughout the year.  
 
 

   String Beans. 

Remove strings, and snap or cut in one-inch pieces; wash, and cook in  boiling water  from one to three hours, adding  salt  last half-hour of cooking. Drain, season with  butter  and  salt.   

   Shell Beans. 

Wash, and cook in  boiling water  from one to one and a half hours, adding  salt  last half-hour of cooking. Cook in sufficiently small quantity of  water  that there may be none left to drain off when  beans  are cooked. Season with  butter  and  salt.   

   Cream of Lima Beans. 

Soak one cup  dried beans  over night, drain, and cook in  boiling salted water  until soft; drain, add three-fourths cup  cream,  and season with  butter  and  salt.  Reheat before serving.  

 
   Boiled Beets. 

Wash, and cook whole in  boiling water  until soft; time required being from one to four hours. Old  beets  will never be tender, no matter how long they may be cooked. Drain and put in  cold water,  that skins may be easily removed. Serve cut in quarters or slices.  

   Sugared Beets. 

  4  hot boiled beets.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Cut  beets  in one-fourth inch slices, add  butter,   sugar,  and  salt;  reheat for serving.  

   Pickled Beets. 

Slice  cold boiled beets  and cover with  vinegar.   

 

 
 Brussels Sprouts. 
 Brussels sprouts belong to same family as cabbage, and the small heads grow from one to two inches apart, on the axis of the entire stem, one root yielding about two quarts. They are imported, and also grow in this country, being cheapest and best in December and January. 
   Brussels Sprouts in White Sauce. 

Pick over, remove wilted leaves, and soak in  cold water  fifteen minutes. Cook in  boiling salted water  twenty minutes, or until easily pierced with a  skewer.  Drain, and to each pint add one cup  White Sauce I.   

 
 
 Cabbage. 
 There are four kinds of cabbage in the market, drumhead, sugar-loaf, Savoy, and purple; and some variety may be found throughout the year. The Savoy is best for boiling; drum-head and purple for Cole-Slaw. In buying, select heavy cabbages. 
   Boiled Cabbage. 

Take off outside leaves, cut in quarters, and remove tough stalk. Soak in  cold water  and cook in an uncovered vessel in  boiling salted water,  to which is added one-fourth teaspoon  soda;  this prevents disagreeable odor during cooking. Cook from thirty minutes to one hour, drain and serve; or chop, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Escalloped Cabbage. 

Cut one-half  boiled cabbage  in pieces; put in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and add one cup  White Sauce I.  Lift  cabbage  with fork that it may be well mixed with  sauce,  cover with one-half cup  buttered crumbs,  place on oven grate, and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

 

   German Cabbage. 

Slice  red cabbage  and soak in  cold water.  Put one quart in  stewpan  with two tablespoons  butter,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  one tablespoon finely chopped  onion,  few gratings of  nutmeg,  and few grains  cayenne;  cover, and cook until  cabbage  is tender. Add two tablespoons  vinegar  and one-half tablespoon  sugar,  and cook five minutes.  

   Cole-Slaw. 

Select a small, heavy  cabbage,  take off outside leaves, and cut in quarters; with a sharp knife slice very thinly. Soak in  cold water  until crisp, drain, dry between towels, and mix with  Cream Salad Dressing.   

   Hot Slaw. 

Slice  cabbage  as for Cole-Slaw, using one-half  cabbage.  Heat in a dressing made of  yolks of two eggs  slightly beaten, one-fourth cup  cold water,  one tablespoon  butter,  one-fourth cup  hot vinegar,  and one-half teaspoon  salt,  stirred over  hot water  until thickened.  

 
 
 Carrots. 
 Carrots may always be found in market. New carrots appear last of April, and are sold in bunches; these may be boiled and served, but carrots are chiefly used for flavoring soups, and for garnishing, on account of their bright color. To prepare carrots for cooking, wash and scrape, as best flavor and brightest color are near the skin. 
   Carrots and Peas. 

Wash, scrape, and cut young  carrots  in small cubes or fancy shapes; cook until soft in  boiling salted water  or  stock.  Drain, add an equal quantity of  cooked green peas,  and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

 
  
 
 

 Cauliflower. 
 Cauliflowers comprise the stalks and flowerets of a plant which belongs to the same family as Brussels sprouts and cabbage; they may be obtained throughout the year, but are cheapest and best in September and October. In selecting cauliflowers, choose those with white heads and fresh green leaves; if dark spots are on the heads, they are not fresh. 
   Creamed Cauliflower. 

Remove leaves, cut off stalk, and soak thirty minutes (head down) in  cold water  to cover. Cook (head up) twenty minutes or until soft in  boiling salted water;  drain, separate flowerets, and reheat in one and one-half cups  White Sauce I.   

   Cauliflower à la Hollandaise. 

Prepare as for Creamed Cauliflower, using  Hollandaise Sauce I.  instead of  White Sauce.   

   Cauliflower au Gratin. 

Place a  whole cooked cauliflower  on dish for serving, cover with  buttered crumbs,  and place on oven grate to brown  crumbs;  remove from oven and pour one cup  Thin White Sauce  around  cauliflower.   

   Cauliflower à la Parmesan. 

Prepare as Cauliflower au Gratin. Sprinkle with  grated cheese  before covering with  crumbs.   

 
 
 Celery. 
 Celery may be obtained from last of July until April. It is best and cheapest in December. Celery stalks are green while growing; but the white celery seen in market has been bleached, with exception of Kalamazoo variety, 
 
 

which grows white. To prepare celery for table, cut off roots and leaves, separate stalks, wash, scrape, and chill in ice water. By adding a slice of lemon to ice water celery is kept white and made crisp. If tops of stalks are gashed several times before putting in water, they will curl back and make celery look more attractive. 
   Celery in White Sauce. 

Wash, scrape, and cut outer  celery  stalks in one-inch pieces; cook twenty minutes or until soft in  boiling salted water;  drain, and to two cups  celery  add one cup  White Sauce I.   

 
 
 Chiccory or Endive. 
 Chiccory or endive may be obtained throughout the year, but during January, February, March, and April, supply is imported. It is used only for salads.  
 
 Corn. 
 Corn may be found in market from first of June to first of October. Until native corn appears it is the most unsatisfactory vegetable. Native corn is obtainable the last of July, but is most abundant and cheapest in August. Among the best varieties are Crosby for early corn and Evergreen for late corn. 
   Boiled Green Corn. 

Remove husks and silky threads. Cook ten to twenty minutes in  boiling water.  Place on platter covered with napkin; draw corners of napkin over  corn;  or cut from cob and season with  butter  and  salt.   

   Succotash. 

Cut  hot boiled corn  from cob, add equal quantity of  hot boiled shelled beans;  season with  butter  and  salt;  reheat before serving.  

 

   Corn Oysters. 

Grate raw  corn  from cobs. To one cup pulp add one well beaten  egg,  one-fourth cup  flour,  and season highly with  salt  and  pepper.  Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep  fat,  or cook on a hot, well greased griddle. They should be made about the size of large oyster.  

   Corn à la Southern. 

To one can chopped  corn  add two  eggs  slightly beaten, one teaspoon  salt,  one-eighth teaspoon  pepper,  one and one-half tablespoons  melted butter,  and one pint  scalded milk;  turn into a buttered  pudding-dish  and bake in slow oven until firm.  

 
 
 Chestnuts. 
 French and Italian chestnuts are served in place of vegetables. 
   Chestnut Purée. 

Remove shells from  chestnuts,  cook until soft in  boiling salted water;  drain, mash, moisten with  scalded milk,  season with  salt  and  pepper,  and beat until light.  Chestnuts  are often boiled, riced, and piled lightly in centre of dish, then surrounded by  meat.   

 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 Cucumbers may be obtained throughout the year, and are generally served raw. During the latter part of the summer they are gathered and pickled for subsequent use. Small pickled cucumbers are called gherkins. 
   Sliced Cucumbers. 

Remove thick slices from both ends and cut off a thick paring, as the  cucumber  contains bitter principle, a large quantity of which lies near the skin and stem end. Cut in thin slices and keep in  cold water  until ready to serve. Drain, and cover with  crushed ice  for serving.  

 

   Boiled Cucumbers. 

Old  cucumbers  may be pared, cut in pieces, cooked until soft in  boiling salted water,  drained, mashed, and seasoned with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Fried Cucumbers. 

Pare  cucumbers  and cut lengthwise in one-third inch slices. Dry between towels, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Stuffed Cucumbers. 

Pare three  cucumbers,  cut in halves crosswise, remove seeds, and let stand in  cold water  thirty minutes. Drain, wipe, and fill with  force-meat,  using recipe for  Chicken Force-meat I. or II., substituting veal for chicken.  Place upright on a  trivet  in a saucepan. Half surround with  White Stock,  cover, and cook forty minutes. Place on thin slices of  dry toast,  and pour around one and one-half cups  Béchamel Sauce.  Serve as a vegetable or entrée.  

 
   Fried Egg-plant I. 

Pare an  egg-plant  and cut in very thin slices. Sprinkle slices with  salt  and pile on a plate. Cover with a weight to express the juice, and let stand one hour. Dredge with  flour  and sauté slowly in  butter  until crisp and brown.  Egg-plant  is in season from September to February.  

   Fried Egg-plant II. 

Pare an  egg-plant,  cut in one-fourth inch slices, and soak over night in  cold salted water.  Drain, let stand in  cold water  one-half hour, drain again, and dry between towels. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in batter, or dip in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and fry in deep  fat.   

 

   Stuffed Egg-plant. 

Cook  egg-plant  fifteen minutes in  boiling salted water  to cover. Cut a slice from top, and with a spoon remove pulp, taking care not to work too closely to skin. Chop pulp, and add one cup  soft stale bread crumbs.  Melt two tablespoons  butter,  add one-half tablespoon finely chopped  onion,  and cook five minutes; or try out three slices of  bacon,  using  bacon fat  in place of  butter.  Add to chopped pulp and  bread,  season with  salt  and  pepper,  and if necessary moisten with a little  stock  or  water;  cook five minutes, cool slightly, and add one beaten  egg.  Refill  egg-plant,  cover with buttered  bread crumbs,  and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven.  

 
 Greens. 
 Hothouse beet greens and dandelions appear in market the first of March, when they command a high price. Those grown out of doors are in season from middle of May to first of July. 
   Boiled Beet Greens. 

Wash thoroughly and scrape roots, cutting off ends. Drain, and cook one hour or until tender in a small quantity  boiling salted water.  Season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  Serve with  vinegar.   

   Dandelions. 

Wash thoroughly, remove roots, drain, and cook one hour or until tender in  boiling salted water.  Allow two quarts  water  to one peck  dandelions.  Season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  Serve with  vinegar.   

 
 
 Lettuce. 
 Lettuce is obtainable all the year, and is especially valuable during the winter and spring, when other green vegetables in market command a high price. Although 
 
 

containing but little nutriment, it is useful for the large quantity of water and potash salts that it contains, and assists in stimulating the appetite. Curly lettuce is of less value than Tennis Ball, but makes an effective garnish.  Lettuce should be separated by removing leaves from stalk (discarding wilted outer leaves), washed, kept in cold water until crisp, drained, and so placed on a towel that water may drop from leaves. A bag made from white mosquito netting is useful for drying lettuce. Wash lettuce leaves, place in bag, and hang in lower part of  ice-box  to drain. Wire baskets are used for the same purpose. Arrange lettuce for serving in nearly its original shape.  
 
 Onions. 
 The onion belongs to the same family (Lily) as do  shallot, garlic, leek,  and  chive.  Onions are cooked and served as a vegetables. They are wholesome, and contain considerable nutriment, but are objectionable on account of the strong odor they impart to the breath, due to volatile substances absorbed by the blood, and by the blood carried to the lungs, where they are set free. The common garden onion is obtainable throughout the year, the new ones appearing in market about the first of June. In large centres Bermuda and Spanish onions are procurable from March 1st to June 1st, and are of delicate flavor.  Shallot, leek, garlic, and chive are principally used to give additional flavor to food. Shallot, garlic, and chive are used, to some extent, in making salads. 
   Boiled Onions. 

Put  onions  in  cold water  and remove skins while under  water.  Drain, put in a saucepan, and cover with  boiling salted water;  boil five minutes, drain, and again cover with  boiling salted water.  Cook one hour or until soft, but not broken. Drain, add a small quantity of  milk,  cook five minutes, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

 

   Onions in Cream. 

Prepare and cook as Boiled  Onions,  changing the  water  twice during boiling; drain, and cover with  Cream or Thin White Sauce.   

   Scalloped Onions. 

Cut  Boiled Onions  in quarters. Put in a buttered baking-dish, cover with  White Sauce I.,  sprinkle with  buttered cracker crumbs,  and place on centre grate in oven to brown  crumbs.   

   Fried Onions. 

Remove skins from four medium-sized  onions.  Cut in thin slices and put in a hot  omelet pan  with one and one-half tablespoons  butter.  Cook until brown, occasionally shaking pan that  onions  may not burn, or turn  onions,  using a fork. Sprinkle with  salt  one minute before taking from fire.  

   Stuffed Onions. 

Remove skins from  onions,  and parboil ten minutes in  boiling salted water  to cover. Turn upside down to cool, and remove part of centres. Fill cavities with equal parts of finely chopped  cooked chicken,  stale, soft  bread crumbs,  and finely chopped  onion  which was removed, seasoned with  salt  and  pepper,  and moistened with  cream  or  melted butter.  Place in buttered shallow  baking-pan,  sprinkle with  buttered crumbs,  and bake in a moderate oven until  onions  are soft.  

 
   Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify). 

Wash, scrape, and put at once into  cold acidulated water  to prevent discoloration. Cut in inch slices, cook in  boiling salted water  until soft, drain, and add to  White Sauce I.   Oyster plant  is in season from October to March.  

 

   Salsify Fritters. 

Cook  oyster plant  as for Creamed Oyster Plant. Mash, season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  Shape in small flat cakes, roll in  flour,  and sauté in  butter.   

 
 Parsnips. 
 Parsnips are not so commonly served as other vegetables; however, they often accompany a boiled dinner. They are raised mostly for feeding cattle. Unless young, they contain a large amount of woody fibre, which extends through centre of roots and makes them undesirable as food. 
   Parsnips with Drawn Butter Sauce. 

Wash and scrape  parsnips,  and cut in pieces two inches long and one-half inch wide and thick. Cook five minutes in  boiling salted water,  or until soft. Drain, and to two cups add one cup  Drawn Butter Sauce.   

   Parsnip Fritters. 

Wash  parsnips  and cook forty-five minutes in  boiling salted water.  Drain, plunge into  cold water,  when skins will be found to slip off easily. Mash, season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper,  shape in small flat round cakes, roll in  flour,  and sauté in  butter.   

 
 
 Peas. 
 Peas contain, next to beans, the largest percentage of proteid of any of the vegetables, and when young are easy of digestion. They appear in market as early as April, coming from Florida and California, and although high in price are hardly worth buying, they having been picked so long. Native peas may be obtained the middle of June, and last until the first of September. The early June are small peas contained in a 
 
 

small pod. McLean, the best peas, are small peas in large flat pods. Champion peas are large, and the pods are well filled, but they lack sweetness. Marrowfat peas are the largest in the market, and are usually sweet. 
   Boiled Peas. 

Remove  peas  from pods, cover with  cold water,  and let stand one-half hour. Skim off undeveloped  peas  which rise to top of  water,  and drain remaining  peas.  Cook until soft in a small quantity of  boiling water,  adding  salt  the last fifteen minutes of cooking. (Consult Time Table for Cooking, p. 33.) There should be but little, if any,  water  to drain from  peas  when they are cooked. Season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  If  peas  have lost much of their natural sweetness, they are improved by the addition of a small amount of  sugar.   

   Creamed Peas. 

Drain  Boiled Peas,  and to two cups  peas  add three-fourths cup  White Sauce II.  Canned  peas  are often drained, rinsed, and reheated in this way.  

 
   Stuffed Peppers I. 

  6  green peppers.  
 3/4 cup  hot steamed rice.  
 1/2 cup  cold cooked meat  cut in small dice. 
 1/3 cup  tomatoes  stewed and strained. 
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Cut off pieces from stem ends of  peppers.  Remove seeds and partitions; parboil eight minutes. Fill with  rice,   meat,   tomatoes,  and  butter,  well mixed, and seasoned with  onion juice,   salt,  and  pepper.  Place in a pan, add one and one-half cups  water  or  stock,  and bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven.  

 

   Stuffed Peppers II. 

Prepare  peppers  as for Stuffed Peppers I. Fill with equal parts of finely chopped  cold cooked chicken or veal,  and  softened bread crumbs,  seasoned with  onion juice,   salt,  and  pepper.   

  Pumpkins.  Pumpkins are boiled or steamed same as squash, but require longer cooking. They are principally used for making pies.  
   Radishes. 

 Radishes  may be obtained throughout the year. There are round and long varieties, the small round ones being considered best. They are bought in bunches, six or seven constituting a bunch.  Radishes  are used merely for a relish, and are served uncooked. To prepare  radishes  for table, remove leaves, stems, and tip end of root, scrape roots, and serve on  crushed ice.   Round radishes  look very attractive   cut to imitate tulips,  

when they should not be scraped; to accomplish this, begin at root end and make six incisions through skin running three-fourths length of  radish.  Pass knife under sections of skin, and cut down as far as incisions extend. Place in  cold water,  and sections of skin will fold back, giving  radish  a tulip-like appearance.  

 
 Spinach. 
 Spinach is cheapest and best in early summer, but is obtainable throughout the year. It gives variety to winter diet, when most green vegetables are expensive and of inferior quality. 
   Boiled Spinach. 

Remove roots, carefully pick over (discarding wilted leaves), and wash in several waters to be sure that it is free from all sand. When young and tender put in a  stew-pan, 
 
 

allow to heat gradually, and cook twenty-five minutes, or until tender, in its own juices. Old  spinach  is better cooked in  boiling salted water,  allowing two quarts  water  to one peck  spinach.  Drain thoroughly, chop finely, reheat, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  Garnish with slices of  hard boiled eggs.  The green color of  spinach  is better retained by cooking in a large quantity of  water  in an uncovered vessel.  

   Spinach à la Béchamel. 

Prepare one-half peck  Boiled Spinach.  Put three tablespoons  butter  in hot  omelet pan;  when melted, add chopped  spinach,  cook three minutes. Sprinkle with two tablespoons  flour,  stir thoroughly, and add gradually three-fourths cup  milk;  cook five minutes.  

 
 
 Squash. 
 Summer squash, which are in market during the summer months, should be young, tender, and thin skinned. The common varieties are the white round and yellow crookneck. Some of the winter varieties appear in market as early as the middle of August; among the most common are Marrow, Turban, and Hubbard. Turban and Hubbard are usually drier than Marrow. Marrow and Turban have a thin shell, which may be pared off before cooking. Hubbard Squash has a very hard shell, which must be split in order to separate squash in pieces, and squash then cooked in the shell. In selecting winter squash, see that it is heavy in proportion to its size. 
   Boiled Summer Squash. 

Wash  squash  and cut in thick slices or quarters. Cook twenty minutes in  boiling salted water,  or until soft. Turn in a  cheese cloth  placed over a  colander,  drain, and wring in  cheese cloth.  Mash, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

 

   Fried Summer Squash I. 

Wash and cut in one-half inch pieces. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in  hot fat,  and drain.  

   Fried Summer Squash II. 

Follow recipe for  Fried Egg-plant I.   

   Steamed Winter Squash. 

Cut in pieces, remove seeds and stringy portion, and pare. Place in a strainer and cook thirty minutes, or until soft, over  boiling water.  Mash, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.  If lacking in sweetness, add a small quantity of  sugar.   

   Boiled Winter Squash. 

Prepare as for Steamed  Winter Squash.  Cook in  boiling salted water,  drain, mash, and season. Unless  squash  is very dry, it is much better steamed than boiled.  

   Baked Winter Squash I. 

Cut in pieces two inches square, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a  dripping-pan,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and allow for each square one-half teaspoon  molasses  and one-half teaspoon  melted butter.  Bake fifty minutes, or until soft, in a moderate oven, keeping covered the first half-hour of cooking. Serve in the shell.  

   Baked Winter Squash II. 

Cut  squash  in halves, remove seeds and stringy portion, place in a  dripping-pan,  cover, and bake two hours, or until soft, in a slow oven. Remove from shell, mash, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

 
  
 
 

 Tomatoes. 
 Tomatoes are obtainable throughout the year, but are cheapest and best in September. Hothouse tomatoes are in market during the winter, and command a very high price, sometimes retailing for one and one-half dollars a pound.  Southern tomatoes appear as early as May 1st, and although of good color, lack flavor. Of the many varieties of tomatoes, Acme is among the best. 
   Sliced Tomatoes. 

Wipe, and cover with  boiling water;  let stand one minute, when they may be easily skinned. Chill thoroughly, and cut in one-third inch slices.  

   Stewed Tomatoes. 

Wipe, pare, cut in pieces, put in  stewpan,  and cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Remove contents from one can  tomatoes  and drain  tomatoes  from some of their liquor. Season with  salt,   pepper,  a few drops of  onion juice,  and  sugar  if preferred sweet. Cover the bottom of a buttered baking-dish with  buttered cracker crumbs,  cover with  tomatoes,  and sprinkle top thickly with  buttered crumbs.  Bake in a hot oven until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Broiled Tomatoes. 

Wipe and cut in halves crosswise, cut off a thin slice from rounding part of each half. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, place in a well-buttered  broiler,  and broil six to eight minutes.  

 

   Tomatoes à la Crême. 

Wipe, peel, and slice three  tomatoes.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  butter.  Place on a hot platter and pour over them one cup  White Sauce I.   

   Devilled Tomatoes. 

  3  tomatoes.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
  Flour.  
  Butter  for sautéing. 
 4 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 teaspoons  powdered sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Yolk 1 hard boiled egg.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 
  Wipe, peel, and cut  tomatoes  in slices. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  butter.  Place on a hot platter and pour over the dressing made by creaming the  butter,  adding dry ingredients,  yolk of egg  rubbed to a paste,  egg  beaten slightly, and  vinegar,  then cooking over  hot water,  stirring constantly until it thickens.  

   Baked Tomatoes. 

Wipe, and remove a thin slice from stem end of six smooth, medium-sized  tomatoes.  Take out seeds and pulp, and drain off most of the liquid. Add an equal quantity of  cracker crumbs,  season with  salt,   pepper,  and a few drops  onion juice,  and refill  tomatoes  with mixture. Place in a buttered pan, sprinkle with  buttered crumbs,  and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven.  

   Stuffed Tomatoes. 

Wipe, and remove thin slices from stem end of six medium-sized  tomatoes.  Take out seeds and pulp, sprinkle inside of  tomatoes  with  salt,  invert, and let stand one-half hour. Cook five minutes two tablespoons  butter  with one-half tablespoon finely chopped  onion.  Add one-half cup finely chopped  cold cooked chicken or veal,  one-half 
 
 

cup  stale soft bread crumbs,   tomato pulp,  and  salt  and  pepper  to taste. Cook five minutes, then add one  egg  slightly beaten and cook one minute, and refill  tomatoes  with mixture. Place in buttered pan, sprinkle with  buttered cracker crumbs,  and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven.  

 
  Turnips.  Turnips are best during the fall and winter; towards spring they become corky, and are then suitable only for stews and flavoring. The Ruta-baga, a large yellow turnip, is one of the best varieties; the large white French turnip and the small flat Purple Top are also used. 
   Mashed Turnip. 

Wash and pare  turnips,  cut in slices or quarters, and cook in  boiling salted water  until soft. Drain, mash, and season with  butter,   salt,  and  pepper.   

   Creamed Turnip. 

Wash  turnips,  and cut in one-half inch cubes. Cook three cups cubes in  boiling salted water  twenty minutes, or until soft. Drain, and add one cup  White Sauce I.   

   Turnip Croquettes. 

Wash, pare, and cut in quarters  new French turnips.  Steam until tender, mash, pressing out all  water  that is possible. This is best accomplished by wringing in  cheese cloth.  Season one and one-fourth cups with  salt  and  pepper,  then add  yolks of two eggs  slightly beaten. Cool, shape in small croquettes, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

 
   Stewed Mushrooms. 

Wash one-half pound  mushrooms.  Remove stems, scrape, and cut in pieces. Peel caps, and break in pieces. Melt three tablespoons of  butter,  add  mushrooms,  
 
 

cook two minutes; sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and add one-half cup  hot water  or  stock.  Cook slowly five minutes.  

   Stewed Mushrooms in Cream. 

Prepare  mushrooms  as for Stewed Mushrooms. Cook with three-fourths cup  cream  instead of using water or stock. Add a slight grating of  nutmeg,  pour over small pieces of  dry toast,  and garnish with  toast points.   

   Broiled Mushrooms. 

Wash  mushrooms,  remove stems, and place caps in a buttered  broiler  and broil five minutes, having cap side down first half of broiling. Serve on circular pieces of  buttered dry toast.  Put a small piece of  butter  in each cap, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and serve as soon as  butter  has melted. Care must be taken, in removing from  broiler,  to keep  mushrooms  cap side up, to prevent loss of juices.  

   Baked Mushrooms in Cream. 

Wash twelve large  mushrooms.  Remove stems, and peel caps. Put in a shallow buttered pan, cap side up. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and dot over with  butter;  add two-thirds cup  cream.  Bake ten minutes in a hot oven. Place on pieces of  dry toast,  and pour over them  cream  remaining in pan.  

   Sautéd Mushrooms. 

Wash, remove stems, peel caps, and break in pieces; there should be one cup of  mushrooms.  Put two tablespoons  butter  in a hot  omelet pan;  when melted, add  mushrooms,  few drops  onion juice,  one-fourth teaspoon  salt,  a few grains  pepper,  and cook five minutes. Add one teaspoon finely chopped  parsley  and one-fourth cup  boiling water.  Cook two minutes, and serve on  dry toast.   

 

   Mushrooms à la Sabine. 

Wash one-half pound  mushrooms,  remove stems, and peel caps. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and cook three minutes in a hot frying-pan, with two tablespoons  butter.  Add one and one-third cups  Brown Sauce,  and cook slowly five minutes. Sprinkle with three tablespoons  grated cheese.  As soon as  cheese  is melted, arrange  mushrooms  on pieces of  toast,  and pour over  sauce.   

   Mushrooms à la Algonquin. 

Wash large selected  mushrooms.  Remove stems, peel caps, and sauté caps in  butter.  Place in a small buttered shallow pan, cap side being up; place on each a large  oyster,  sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and place on each a bit of  butter.  Cook in a hot oven until  oysters  are plump. Serve with  Brown or Béchamel Sauce.   

   Stuffed Mushrooms. 

Wash twelve large  mushrooms.  Remove stems, chop finely, and peel caps. Melt three tablespoons  butter,  add one-half tablespoon finely chopped  shallot  and chopped stems, then cook ten minutes. Add one and one-half tablespoons  flour,   chicken stock  to moisten, a slight grating of  nutmeg,  one-half teaspoon finely chopped  parsley,  and  salt  and  pepper  to taste. Cool, fill caps, well rounding over top, cover with  buttered cracker crumbs,  and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XX. 
 POTATOES. 
 
 COMPOSITION. 
  Water 78.9%. 
 Starch 18%. 
 Proteid 2.1% 
 Mineral matter .9% 
 Fat .1% 
 
 POTATOES stand pre-eminent among the vegetables used for food. They are tubers belonging to the Nightshade family; their hardy growth renders them easy of cultivation in almost any soil or climate, and, resisting early frosts, they may be raised in a higher latitude than the cereals.  They give needed bulk to food rater than nutriment, and, lacking in proteid, should be used in combination with meat, fish, or eggs.  Potatoes contain an acrid juice, the greater part of which lies near the skin; it passes into the water during boiling of potatoes, and escapes with the steam from a baked potato.  Potatoes are best in the fall, and keep well through the winter. By spring the starch is partially changed to dextrin, giving the potatoes a sweetness, and when cooked a waxiness. The same change takes place when the potatoes are frozen. To prevent freezing, keep a pail of cold water standing neat them.  Potatoes keep best in a cool dry cellar, in barrels or piled in a bin. When sprouts appear they should be removed; receiving their nourishment from the starch, they deteriorate the potato.  
 
 

 New potatoes may be compared to unripe fruit, the starch grains not having reached maturity; therefore they should not be given to children or invalids. 
 
 Sweet Potatoes. 
 Sweet potatoes, although analogous to white potatoes, are fleshy roots of the plant, belong to a different family (Convolvulus), and contain a much larger percentage of sugar. Our own country produces large quantities of sweet potatoes, which may be grown as far north as New Jersey and Southern Michigan. Kiln-dried sweet potatoes are the best, as they do not so quickly spoil.  
   Baked Potatoes. 

Select smooth, medium-sized  potatoes.  Wash, using a  vegetable brush,  and place in  dripping-pan.  Bake in hot oven forty minutes or until soft, remove from oven and serve at once. If allowed to stand, remove from oven and serve at once. If allowed to stand, unless the skin is ruptured for escape of steam, they become soggy. Properly baked  potatoes  are more easily digested than  potatoes  cooked in any other way, as some of the starch is changed to dextrin by the intense heat. They are better cooked in  boiling water  than baked in a slow oven.  

   Boiled Potatoes. 

Select  potatoes  of uniform size. Wash, pare, and drop at once in  cold water  to prevent discoloration; soak one half-hour in the fall, and one to two hours in winter and spring. Cook in  boiling salted water  until soft, which is easily determined by piercing with a  skewer.  For seven  potatoes  allow one tablespoon  salt,  and  boiling water  to cover. Drain from  water,  and keep uncovered in warm place until serving time. Avoid sending to table in a covered  vegetable dish.  In boiling large  potatoes,  it often happens that outside is soft, while centre is underdone. To finish cooking without  potatoes  breaking apart, add one pint  cold water,  which drives heat to centre, thus accomplishing the cooking.  

 

   Riced Potatoes. 

Force  hot boiled potatoes  through a  potato ricer  or coarse strainer. Serve lightly piled in a hot  vegetable dish.   

   Mashed Potatoes. 

To five  riced potatoes  add three tablespoons  butter,  one teaspoon  salt,  few grains  pepper,  and one-third cup  hot milk;  beat with fork until creamy, reheat, and pile lightly in hot dish.  

   Potato Omelet. 

Prepare  Mashed Potatoes,  turn in hot  omelet pan  greased with one tablespoon  butter,  spread evenly, cook slowly until browned underneath, and fold as an omelet.  

   Potato Border. 

Place a buttered mould on platter, build around it a wall of  hot Mashed Potatoes,  three and one-half inches high by one inch deep, smooth and crease with  case knife.  Remove mould, fill with  creamed meat or fish,  and reheat in oven before serving.  

   Escalloped Potatoes. 

Wash, pare, soak, and cut four  potatoes  in one-fourth inch slices. Put a layer in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and dot over with one-half tablespoon  butter;  repeat. Add  hot milk  until it may be seen through top layer, bake one and one-fourth hours or until  potato  is soft.  

   Potatoes à la Hollandaise. 

Wash, pare, soak, and cut  potatoes  in one-fourth inch slices, shape with  French vegetable cutters;  or cut in one-half inch cubes. Cover three cups  potato  with  White Stock,  cook until soft, and drain. Cream one-third cup  butter,  add one tablespoon  lemon juice,  one-half teaspoon 
 
 

 salt,  and few grains of  cayenne.  Add to  potatoes,  cook three minutes, and add one-half tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.   

   Potatoes Baked in Half Shell. 

Select six medium-sized  potatoes  and bake, following recipe for Baked Potatoes. Remove from oven, cut slice from top of each, and scoop out inside. Mash, add two tablespoons  butter,   salt,   pepper,  and three tablespoons  hot milk;  then add  whites two eggs  well beaten. Refill skins, and bake five to eight minutes in very hot oven. Potatoes may be sprinkled with  grated cheese  before putting in oven.  

   Duchess Potatoes. 

To two cups  hot riced potatoes  add two tablespoons  butter,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  and  yolks of three eggs  slightly beaten. Shape, using pastry bag and tube, in form of baskets, pyramids, crowns, leaves, roses, etc. Brush over with beaten  egg  diluted with one teaspoon  water,  and brown in a hot oven.  

   Maître d'Hôtel Potatoes. 

Wash, pare, and shape  potatoes  in balls, using a  French vegetable cutter,  or cut  potatoes  in one-half inch cubes. There should be two cups. Soak fifteen minutes in  cold water,  and cook in  boiling salted water  to cover until soft. Drain, and add  Maître d'Hôtel butter.   

   Maître d'Hôtel butter. 

Cream three tablespoons  butter,  add one teaspoon  lemon juice,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  one-eighth teaspoon  pepper,  and one-half tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.   

   Franconia Potatoes. 

Prepare as for Boiled  Potatoes,  and parboil ten minutes; drain, and place in pan in which meat is roasting; bake 
 
 

until soft, basting with  fat  in pan when basting  meat.  Time required for baking about forty minutes.  

   Brabant Potatoes. 

Prepare as for Boiled Potatoes, using small  potatoes,  and trim egg-shaped; parboil ten minutes, drain, and place in  baking-pan  and bake until soft, basting three times with  melted butter.   

   Potato Balls. 

Select large  potatoes,  wash, pare, and soak. Shape in balls with a  French vegetable cutter.  Cook in  boiling salted water  until soft; drain, and to one pint  potatoes  add one cup  Thin White Sauce.  Turn into hot dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped  parsley.   

 
 FRIED POTATOES. 
   Shadow Potatoes (Saratoga Chips). 

Wash and pare  potatoes.  Slice thinly (using  vegetable slicer ) into a bowl of  cold water.  Let stand two hours, changing  water  twice. Drain, plunge in a kettle of  boiling water  and boil one minute. Drain again, and cover with  cold water.  Take from  water  and dry between towels. Fry in deep  fat  until light brown, keeping in motion with a  skimmer.  Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with  salt.   

   Shredded Potatoes. 

Wash, pare, and cut  potatoes  in one-eighth inch slices. Cut slices in one-eighth inch  s. Soak one hour in  cold water.  Take from  water,  dry between towels, and fry in deep  fat.  Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with  salt.  Serve around  fried or baked fish.   

 

   French Fried Potatoes. 

Wash and pare small  potatoes,  cut in eighths lengthwise, and soak one hour in  cold water.  Take from  water,  dry between towels, and fry in deep  fat.  Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with  salt.   Care must be taken that  fat  is not too hot, as  potatoes  must be cooked as well as browned.  

   Potato Marbles. 

Wash and pare  potatoes.  Shape in balls, using a  French vegetable cutter.  Soak fifteen minutes in  cold water,  take from  water  and dry between towels. Fry in deep  fat,  drain, and sprinkle with  salt.   

   Fried Potato Balls. 

To one cup  hot riced potatoes  add one tablespoon  butter,  one-fourth teaspoon  salt,  one-eighth teaspoon  celery salt,  and few grains  cayenne.  Cool slightly, and add one-half beaten  egg  and one-half teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  Shape in small balls, roll in  flour,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Potato Fritters. 

  2 cups  hot riced potatoes.  
 2 tablespoons  cream.  
 2 tablespoons  wine.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 3  eggs.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 
  Add  cream,   wine,  and seasonings to  potatoes;  then add  eggs  well beaten, having bowl containing mixture in pan of  ice water,  and beat until cold. Add  flour,  and when well mixed, drop by spoonfuls in deep  fat,  fry until delicately browned, and drain on brown paper.  

   Potato Curls. 

Wash and pare large long  potatoes.  Shape with a  potato curler,  soak one hour in  cold water,  drain, dry between towels, fry in deep  fat,  drain, and sprinkle with  salt.   

 

  Potato Croquettes.  An illustration of a hand shaping potato croquettes by rolling them out on a table. A group of finished croquettes are set on the far end of the table, and a deep fat fryer and a bowl can be seen in the background.  
   Potato Croquettes. 

  2 cups  hot riced potatoes.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry one minute in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper. Croquettes are shaped in a variety of forms. The most common way is to first form a smooth ball by rolling one rounding tablespoon mixture between hands. Then roll on a board until of desired length, and flatten ends.  

   French Potato Croquettes. 

  2 cups  hot riced potatoes.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape in balls, then in rolls, pointed at ends. Roll in 
 
 

 flour,  mark in three places on top of each with knife blade to represent a small French loaf. Fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper.  

   Potato Apples. 

  2 cups  hot riced potatoes.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/3 cup  grated cheese.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 2 tablespoons  thick cream.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given, and beat thoroughly. Shape in form of small apples, roll in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper. Insert a  clove  at both stem and blossom end of each apple.  

   Potatoes en Surprise. 

Make  Potato Croquette mixture, omitting parsley.  Shape in small nests and fill with  Creamed Chicken,   shrimp,  or  peas.  Cover nests with Croquette mixture, then roll in form of croquettes. Dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again; fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper.  

 
 
 SWEET POTATOES. 
   Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Prepare and bake as white  potatoes.   

   Boiled Sweet Potatoes. 

Select  potatoes  of uniform size. Wash, pare, and cook twenty minutes in  boiling salted water  to cover. Many boil  sweet potatoes  with the skins on.  

   Mashed Sweet Potatoes. 

To two cups  riced sweet potatoes  add three tablespoons  butter,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  and  hot milk  to moisten. Beat until light, and pile on a  vegetable dish.   

 

   Glazed Sweet Potatoes. 

Wash and pare six medium-sized  potatoes.  Cook ten minutes in  boiling salted water.  Drain, cut in halves lengthwise, and put in a buttered pan. Make a syrup by boiling three minutes one-half cup  sugar  and four tablespoons  water;  add one tablespoon  butter.  Brush  potatoes  with syrup and bake fifteen minutes, basting twice with remaining syrup.  

   Sweet Potato Balls. 

To two cups  hot riced sweet potatoes  add three tablespoons  butter,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  few grains  pepper,  and one beaten  egg.  Shape in small balls, roll in  flour,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. If  potatoes  are very dry, it will be necessary to add  hot milk  to moisten.  

   Sweet Potato Croquettes. 

Prepare  mixture for Sweet Potato Balls.  Shape in croquettes, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

 
 
 WARMED-OVER POTATOES. 
   Potato Cakes. 

Shape  cold mashed potato  in small cakes, and roll in  flour.   Butter  hot  omelet pan,  put in cakes, brown one side, turn and brown other side, adding  butter  as needed to prevent burning; or pack  potato  in small buttered pan as soon as it comes from table, and set aside until ready for use. Turn from pan, cut in pieces, roll in  flour,  and cook same as Potato Cakes.  

   Creamed Potatoes. 

Reheat two cups  cold boiled potatoes,  cut in dice, in one and one-fourth cups  White Sauce I.   

 

   Potatoes au Gratin. 

Put  Creamed Potatoes  in buttered baking-dish, cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake on centre grate until  crumbs  are brown.  

   Delmonico Potatoes. 

To  Potatoes au Gratin  add one-third cup  grated mild cheese,  arranging  potatoes  and  cheese  in alternate layers before covering with  crumbs.   

   Hashed Brown Potatoes. 

Try out  fat salt pork  cut in small cubes, remove scraps; there should be about one-third cup of  fat.  Add two cups  cold boiled potatoes  finely chopped, one-eighth teaspoon  pepper,  and  salt  if needed. Mix  potatoes  thoroughly with  fat;  cook three minutes, stirring constantly; let stand to brown underneath. Fold as an omelet and turn on hot platter.  

   Sautéd Potatoes. 

Cut  cold boiled potatoes  in one-fourth inch slices, season with  salt  and  pepper,  put in a hot, well-greased frying-pan, brown on one side, turn and brown on other side.  

   Chartreuse Potatoes. 

Cut  cold boiled potatoes  in one-fourth inch slices, sprinkle with  salt,   pepper,  and a few drops  onion juice,  put together in pairs, dip in  Batter I.,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper.  

   Lyonnaise Potatoes I. 

Cook five minutes three tablespoons  butter  with one small  onion,  cut in thin slices; add three  cold boiled potatoes  cut in one-fourth inch slices and sprinkled with  salt  and  pepper;  stir until well mixed with  onion  and  butter;  let stand until  potato  is brown underneath, fold, and turn 
 
 

on a hot platter. This dish is much improved and  potatoes  brown better by addition of two tablespoons  Brown Stock.  Sprinkle with finely chopped  parsley  if desired.  

   Lyonnaise Potatoes II. 

Slice  cold boiled potatoes  to make two cups. Cook five minutes one and one-half tablespoons  butter  with one tablespoon finely chopped  onion.  Melt three tablespoons  butter,  season with  salt  and  pepper,  add  potatoes,  and cook until  potatoes  have absorbed  butter,  occasionally shaking pan. Add  butter  and  onion,  and when well mixed, add one-half tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.    French Chef.   

   Oak Hill Potatoes. 

Cut four  cold boiled potatoes  and four  hard boiled eggs  in one-fourth inch slices. Put layer of  potatoes  in buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  cover with layer of  eggs;  repeat, and pour over two cups  Thin White Sauce.  Cover with  buttered cracker crumbs  and bake until  crumbs  are brown.  

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXI. 
 SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS. 
 SALADS, which constitute a course in almost every dinner, but a few years since seldom appeared on the table. They are now made in an endless variety of ways, and are composed of meat, fish, vegetables (alone or in combination) or fruits, with the addition of a dressing. The salad plants, lettuce, watercress, chiccory, cucumbers, etc., contain but little nutriment, but are cooling, refreshing, and assist in stimulating the appetite. They are valuable for the water and potash salts they contain. The olive oil, which usually forms the largest part of the dressing, furnishes nutriment, and is of much value to the system.  Salads made of green should always be served crisp and cold. The vegetables should be thoroughly washed, allowed to stand in cold or ice water until crisp, then drained and spread on a towel and set aside in a cold place until serving time. See Lettuce, page 263. Dressing may be added at table or just before sending to table. If greens are allowed to stand in dressing they will soon wilt. It should be remembered that winter greens are raised under glass and should be treated as any other hothouse plant. Lettuce will be affected by a change of temperature and wilt just as quickly as delicate flowers.  Canned or cold cooked left-over vegetables are well utilized in salads, but are best mixed with French Dressing and allowed to stand in a cold place one hour before serving. Where several vegetables are used in the same 
 
 

salad they should be marinated separately, and arranged for serving just before sending to table.  Meat for salads should be freed from skin and gristle, cut in small cubes, and allowed to stand mixed with French Dressing before combining with vegetables. Fish should be flaked or cut in cubes.  Where salads are dressed at table, first sprinkle with salt and pepper, add oil, and lastly vinegar. If vinegar is added before oil, the greens will become wet, and oil will not cling, but settle to bottom of bowl. 
   A Chapon. 

Remove a small piece from end of  French loaf  and rub over with a clove of  garlic,  first dipped in  salt.  Place in bottom of salad bowl before arranging salad. A chapon is often used in vegetable salads, and gives an agreeable additional flavor.  

  To Marinate.  The word marinate, used in cookery, means to add salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar to a salad ingredient or mixture and let stand until well seasoned. 
 
 SALAD DRESSINGS. 
   French Dressing. 

  1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  pepper.  
 2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 4 tablespoons  olive oil.  
 
  Mix ingredients and stir until well blended. French Dressing is more easily prepared and largely used than any other dressing.  

   Cream Dressing I. 

  1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1/2 tablespoon  mustard.  
 1 1/4 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1  egg  slightly beaten. 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 3/4 cup  cream.  
 1/4 cup  vinegar.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given, adding  vinegar  very slowly. Cook over  boiling water,  stirring constantly until mixture thickens, strain and cool.  

 

   Cream Dressing II. 

  1 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  powdered sugar.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  melted butter.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1/3 cup  hot vinegar.  
 1/2 cup  thick cream.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, add  butter,   egg,  and  vinegar  slowly. Cook over  boiling water,  stirring constantly until mixture thickens; cool, and add to  heavy cream,  beaten until stiff.  

   Boiled Dressing. 

  1/2 tablespoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/2 tablespoon  flour.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1/4 cup  vinegar.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, add  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten,  butter,   milk,  and  vinegar  very slowly. Cook over  boiling water  until mixture thickens; strain, and cool.  

   German Dressing. 

  1/2 cup  thick cream.  
 3 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 
  Beat  cream  until stiff, using  Dover Egg-beater.  Add  salt,   pepper,  and  vinegar  very slowly, continuing the beating.  

   Chicken Salad Dressing. 

  1/2 cup rich  chicken stock.  
 1/2 cup  vinegar.  
  Yolks 5 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  mixed mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/2 cup  thick cream.  
 1/3 cup  melted butter.  
 
  Reduce  stock in which a fowl has been cooked  to one-half cupful. Add  vinegar,   yolks of eggs  slightly beaten, 
 
 

 mustard,   salt,   pepper,  and  cayenne.  Cook over  boiling water,  stirring constantly until mixture thickens. Strain, add  cream  and  melted butter,  then cool.  

   Oil Dressing I. 

  4  hard boiled eggs.  
 4 tablespoons  oil.  
 4 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 1/2 tablespoon  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  White 1 egg.  
 
  Rub  yolks of eggs  until smooth, add dry ingredients, then gradually  oil  and  vinegar.  Stir in lightly  white of egg  beaten until stiff.  

   Oil Dressing II. 

  1 1/2 teaspoons  mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  powdered sugar.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 2  eggs  slightly beaten. 
 2 tablespoons  oil.  
 1/3 cup  vinegar  diluted with  cold water  to make one-half cup. 
 
  Mix dry ingredients, add  egg  and  oil  gradually, stirring constantly until thoroughly mixed; then add diluted  vinegar.  Cook over  boiling water  until mixture thickens; strain and cool.  

   Mayonnaise Dressing I. 

  1 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  powdered sugar.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.   
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 1 1/2 cups  olive oil.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, add  egg yolks,  and when well mixed, add one-half teaspoon  vinegar.  Add  oil  gradually, at first drop by drop, and stir constantly. As mixture thickens, thin with  vinegar  or  lemon juice.  Add  oil,  and  vinegar  or  lemon juice  alternately, until all is used, stirring or beating constantly. If  oil  is added too rapidly, dressing will have a curdled appearance. A 
 
 

smooth consistency may be restored by taking  yolk of another egg  and adding curdled mixture slowly to it. It is desirable to have bowl containing mixture placed in a larger bowl of  crushed ice,  to which a small quantity of  water  has been added.  Olive oil  for making Mayonnaise should always be thoroughly chilled. A silver fork,  wire whisk,  small wooden spoon, or  Dover Egg-beater  may be used as preferred. If one has a  Keystone Egg-beater,  dressing may be made very quickly by its use. Mayonnaise should be stiff enough to hold its shape. It soon liquefies when added to meat or vegetables; therefore it should be added just before serving time.  

   Mayonnaise Dressing II. 

Use same ingredients as for Mayonnaise Dressing I., adding mashed  yolk of hard boiled egg  to dry ingredients.  

  French Chef.  
   Cream Mayonnaise Dressing. 

To  Mayonnaise Dressing I. or II.  add one-third cup  thick cream,  beaten until stiff. This recipe should be used only when dressing is to be eaten the day it is made.  

   Colored Mayonnaise Dressing. 

  Lobster coral,  rubbed through a fine sieve, added to  Mayonnaise,  makes  Red Mayonnaise. 

   

  Finely chopped  parsley leaves  pounded with a small quantity of  lemon juice,  strained through  cheese cloth  and added to  Mayonnaise  makes  Green Mayonnaise; 

or  Spinach Green  may be used if desired.  
   Potato Mayonnaise. 

  Very small  baked potato.  
 1 teaspoon  mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  powdered sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 3/4 cup  olive oil.  
 
  Remove and mash the inside of  potato.  Add  mustard,   salt,  and  powdered sugar;  add one tablespoon  vinegar,  
 
 

and rub mixture through a fine sieve. Add slowly  oil  and remaining  vinegar.  By the taste one would hardly realize eggs were not used in the making.  

 
 
 SALADS. 
   Dressed Lettuce. 

Prepare  lettuce  as directed on page 263. Serve with  French Dressing.   

   Lettuce and Cucumber Salad. 

Place a  chapon  in bottom of salad bowl. Wash, drain, and dry one  head lettuce,  arrange in bowl, and place between leaves one  cucumber  cut in thin slices. Serve with  French Dressing.   

   Lettuce and Radish Salad. 

Prepare and arrange as for Dressed  Lettuce.  Place between leaves six  radishes  which have been washed, scraped, and cut in thin slices. Garnish with round  radishes  cut to represent tulips. See page 268. Serve with  French Dressing.   

   Lettuce and Tomato Salad. 

Peel and chill three  tomatoes.  Cut in halves crosswise, arrange each half on a  lettuce leaf.  Garnish with  Mayonnaise Dressing  forced through a pastry bag and tube. If  tomatoes  are small, cut in quarters, and allow one  tomato  to each  lettuce leaf.   

   Dressed Watercress. 

Wash, remove roots, drain, and chill  watercress.  Arrange in salad dish, and serve with  French Dressing.   

   Watercress and Cucumber Salad. 

Prepare  watercress  and add one  cucumber,  pared, chilled, and cut in one-half inch dice. Serve with  French Dressing.   

 

   Cucumber and Tomato Salad. 

Arrange on a bed of  lettuce leaves,  sliced  tomatoes.  Pile on each slice,  cucumber  cubes cut one-half inch square. Serve with  French or Mayonnaise Dressing.   

   Dressed Celery. 

Wash, scrape, and cut stalks of  celery  in thin slices. Mix with  Cream Dressing I.   

   Celery and Cabbage Salad. 

Remove outside leaves from a small solid  white cabbage,  and cut off stalk close to leaves. Cut out centre and with a sharp knife shred finely. Let stand one hour in cold or  ice water.  Drain, wring in double  cheese cloth,  to make as dry as possible. Mix with equal parts  celery  cut in small pieces. Moisten with  Cream Dressing  and refill  cabbage.  Arrange on a folded napkin and garnish with  celery tips  and  parsley  between folds of napkin and around top of  cabbage.   

  String Bean Salad.  A salad topped with a flower-shaped decoration and surrounded by a ring of cucumbers arranged on a fancy platter.  
   String Bean Salad. 

Marinate two cups  cold string beans  with  French Dressing.  Add one teaspoon finely cut  chives.  Pile in centre of salad dish and arrange around base thin slices of 
 
 

 radishes,  overlapping one another. Garnish top with  radish  cut to represent a tulip.  

  Potato Salad.  A mound of multicolored salad garnished with parsley and arranged on a round platter.  
   Potato Salad. 

Cut  cold boiled potatoes  in one-half inch cubes. Sprinkle four cupfuls with one-half tablespoon  salt  and one-fourth teaspoon  pepper.  Add four tablespoons  oil  and mix thoroughly; then add two tablespoons  vinegar.  A few drops of  onion juice  may be added, or one-half tablespoon  chives  finely cut. Arrange in a mound and garnish with  whites and yolks of two hard boiled eggs,  cold boiled red  beets,  and  parsley.  Chop  whites  and arrange on one-fourth of the mound; chop  beets  finely, mix with one tablespoon  vinegar,  and let stand fifteen minutes; then arrange on fourths of mound next to  whites.  Arrange on remaining fourth of mound,  yolks  chopped or forced through a  potato ricer.  Put small sprigs of  parsley  in lines dividing  beets  from  eggs;  also garnish with  parsley  at base.  

   Potato and Celery Salad. 

To two cups  boiled potatoes  cut in one-half inch cubes add one-half cup finely cut  celery  and a medium-sized  apple,  pared, cut in eighths, then eighths cut in thin 
 
 

slices. Marinate with  French Dressing.  Arrange in a mound and garnish with  celery tips  and sections of bright red  apple.   

   Macédoine Salad. 

Marinate separately  cold cooked cauliflower,   peas,  and  carrots,  cut in small cubes, and outer stalks of  celery  finely cut. Arrange  peas  and  carrots  in alternate piles in centre of a salad dish. Pile  cauliflower  on top. Arrange  celery  in four piles at equal distances. At top of each pile place a small  gherkin  cut lengthwise in very thin slices, beginning at blossom end and cutting nearly to stem end. Open slices to represent a fan. Place between piles of  celery  a slice of  tomato.   Almost any cold cooked vegetables on hand may be used for a Macédoine Salad, and if care is taken in arrangement, they make a very attractive dish.  

  Individual Salads. 1. Stuffed Tomato. 2. Sweetbread and Cucumber.  Two decorative salads arranged on round plates. The caption identifies each salad in order from left to right.  
   Stuffed Tomato Salad. 

Peel medium-sized  tomatoes.  Remove thin slice from top of each and take out seeds and some of pulp. Sprinkle inside with  salt,  invert, and let stand one-half hour. Fill  tomatoes  with  cucumbers  cut in small cubes and mixed with  Mayonnaise Dressing.  Arrange on  lettuce leaves  and garnish top of each with  Mayonnaise Dressing  forced through a pastry-bag and tube.  

 

   Tomato Jelly Salad. 

To one can  stewed and strained tomatoes  add one teaspoon each of  salt  and  powdered sugar,  and one box  gelatine  which has soaked fifteen minutes in one-half cup  cold water.  Pour into small cups and chill. Run a knife around inside of moulds, so that when taken out shapes may have a rough surface suggesting a fresh tomato. Place on  lettuce leaves  and garnish top of each with  Mayonnaise Dressing.   

   Salad à la Russe. 

Peel six  tomatoes,  remove thin slices from top of each, and take out seeds and pulp. Sprinkle inside with  salt,  invert, and let stand one-half hour. Place seeds and pulp removed from  tomatoes  in a strainer to drain. Mix one-third cup  cucumbers  cut in dice, one-third cup  cold cooked peas,  one-fourth cup  pickles  finely chopped, one-third cup  tomato pulp,  and two tablespoons  capers.  Season with  salt,   pepper,  and  vinegar.  Put in a  cheese cloth  and squeeze; then add one-half cup  cold cooked chicken  cut in very small dice. Mix with  Mayonnaise Dressing,  refill  tomatoes,  sprinkle with finely chopped  parsley,  and place each on a  lettuce leaf.   

   Spinach Salad. 

Pick over, wash, and cook one-half peck  spinach.  Drain, and chop finely. Season with  salt,   pepper,  and  lemon juice,  and add one tablespoon  melted butter.  Butter slightly small tin moulds and pack solidly with mixture. Chill, remove from moulds, and arrange on thin slices of  cold boiled tongue  cut in circular pieces. Garnish base of each with a wreath of  parsley,  and serve on top of each  Sauce Tartare.   

   Egg Salad I. 

Cut six  hard boiled eggs  in halves crosswise, keeping  whites  in pairs. Remove  yolks,  and mash or put through 
 
 

a  potato ricer.  Add slowly enough  Oil Dressing II.  to moisten. Make into balls the size of original  yolks  and refill  whites.  Arrange on a bed of  lettuce  and pour  Oil Dressing II.  around  eggs.   

   Egg Salad II. 

Cut four  hard boiled eggs  in halves crosswise in such a way that tops of halves may be cut in small points. Remove  yolks,  mash, and add an equal amount of finely chopped  cooked chicken.  Moisten with  Oil Dressing I.,  shape in balls size of original  yolks,  and refill  whites.  Arrange on  lettuce leaves  and serve with  Oil Dressing I.   

   Lenten Salad. 

Separate  yolks  and  whites  of four  hard boiled eggs.  Chop  whites  finely, marinate with  French Dressing,  and arrange on  lettuce leaves.  Force  yolks  through a  potato ricer  and pile on the centre of  whites.  Serve with  French Dressing.   

   Cheese Salad. 

Arrange one head of  lettuce  on a salad dish, sprinkle with one-fourth pound  Edam cheese  broken in very small pieces, and pour over it  French Dressing.   

   Nut Salad. 

Mix one cup chopped  English walnut meat  and two cups shredded  lettuce.  Arrange on  lettuce leaves  and garnish with  Mayonnaise Dressing.   

   Nut and Celery Salad. 

Mix equal parts of  English walnut or pecan nut meat  cut in pieces, and  celery  cut in small pieces. Marinate with  French Dressing.  Serve with a border of shredded  lettuce.   

 

   Banana Salad. 

Remove one section of skin from each of four  bananas.  Take out fruit, scrape, and cut fruit from one  banana  in thin slices, fruit from other three  bananas  in one-half inch cubes. Marinate cubes with  French Dressing.  Refill skins and garnish each with slices of  banana.  Stack around a mound of  lettuce leaves.   

   Salmon Salad. 

Flake remnants of  cold boiled salmon.  Mix with  French, Mayonnaise, or Cream Dressing.  Arrange on nests of  lettuce leaves.  Garnish with the  yolk of a hard boiled egg  forced through a  potato ricer,  and  white of egg  cut in  s.  

   Shrimp Salad. 

Remove  shrimps  from can, cover with  cold or ice water,  and let stand twenty minutes. Drain, dry between towels, remove intestinal veins, and break in pieces, reserving six of the finest. Moisten with  Cream Dressing II.,  and arrange on nests of  lettuce leaves.  Put a spoonful of dressing on each, and garnish with a whole  shrimp,   capers,  and an  olive  cut in quarters.  

   Sardine Salad. 

Remove skin and bones from  sardines,  and mix with an equal quantity of the mashed  yolks of hard boiled eggs.  Arrange in nests of  lettuce leaves  and serve with  Mayonnaise Dressing.   

   Lobster Salad I. 

Remove  lobster meat  from shell, cut in one-half inch cubes, and marinate with a  French Dressing.  Mix with a small quantity of  Mayonnaise Dressing  and arrange in nests of  lettuce leaves.  Put a spoonful of Mayonnaise on each, and sprinkle with  lobster coral  rubbed through a fine 
 
 

sieve. Garnish with small  lobster claws  around outside of dish.   Cream Dressing I. or II.  may be used in place of Mayonnaise Dressing.   

  Lobster Salad II.  A salad surrounded with a ring of curled celery served on a round platter.  
   Lobster Salad II. 

Prepare  lobster  as for Lobster Salad I. Add an equal quantity of  celery  cut in small pieces, kept one hour in  cold or ice water,  then drained and dried in a towel. Moisten with any  cream or oil dressing.  Arrange on a salad dish, pile slightly in centre, cover with dressing, sprinkle with  lobster coral  forced through a fine sieve, and garnish with a border of  curled celery.   

   To Curl Celery. 

Cut thick stalks of  celery  in two-inch pieces. With a sharp knife, beginning at outside of stalks, make five cuts parallel with each other, extending one-third the length of pieces. Make six cuts at right-angles to cuts already made. Put pieces in  cold or ice water  and let stand over night or for several hours, when they will curl back and  celery  will be found very crisp. Both ends of  celery  may be curled if one cares to take the trouble.  

   Lobster Salad III. 

Remove large claws and split a  lobster  in two lengthwise by beginning the cut on inside of tail end and cutting through entire length of tail and body. Open  lobster,  
 
 

remove tail meat,  liver,  and coral, and set aside. Discard intestinal vein, stomach, and  fat,  and wipe inside thoroughly with cloth wrung out of  cold water.  Body meat and small claws are left on shell. Remove meat from upper parts of large claws and cut off (using scissors or  can opener ) one-half the shell from lower parts, taking 
  Lobster Salad III.  A salad served in an oval platter on a bed of lettuce leaves.  
out meat and leaving the parts in suitable condition to refill. Cut  lobster meat  in one-half inch cubes and mix with an equal quantity of finely cut  celery.  Season with  salt,   pepper,  and  vinegar,  and moisten with  Mayonnaise Dressing.  Refill tail, body, and under half of large claw shells. Mix  liver  and coral, rub through a sieve, add one tablespoon Mayonnaise Dressing and a few drops  anchovy essence,  with enough more Mayonnaise Dressing cover  lobster  already in shell. Arrange on a bed of  lettuce leaves,  and sprinkle top with finely chopped  parsley.   

   Chicken Salad I. 

Cut  cold boiled fowl  or  remnants of roast chicken  in one-half inch cubes, and marinate with  French Dressing.  Add an equal quantity of  celery,  washed, scraped, cut in small pieces, chilled in  cold or ice water,  drained, and dried in a towel. Just before serving moisten with  Cream, Oil, or Mayonnaise Dressing.  Mound on a salad dish, and garnish with  yolks of hard boiled eggs  forced through a  potato ricer,   capers,  and  celery tips.   

 

   Chicken Salad II. 

Cut  cold boiled fowl  or  remnants of roast chicken  in one-half inch dice. To two cups add one and one-half cups  celery  cut in small pieces, and moisten with  Cream Dressing II.  Mound on a salad dish, cover with dressing, and garnish with  capers,  thin slices cut from small  pickles,  and  curled celery.   

   Chicken and Oyster Salad. 

Clean, parboil, and drain one pint  oysters.  Remove tough muscles, and mix soft parts with an equal quantity of  cold boiled fowl  cut in one-half inch dice. Moisten with any  salad dressing,  and serve on a bed of  lettuce leaves.   

   Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad. 

Parboil a pair of  sweetbreads  twenty minutes; drain, cool, and cut in one-half inch cubes. Mix with an equal quantity of  cucumber  cut in one-half inch dice. Season with  salt  and  pepper,  and moisten with  German Dressing.  Arrange in nests of  lettuce leaves  or in  cucumber  cups, and garnish with  watercress.  To prepare  cucumber  cups, pare  cucumbers,  remove thick slices from each end, and cut in halves crosswise. Take out centres, put cups in  cold water,  and let stand until crisp; drain, and dry for refilling. Small  cucumbers  may be pared, cut in halves lengthwise, centres removed, and cut pointed at ends to represent a boat.  

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXII. 
 ENTRéES. 
 
 Batters and Fritters. 
   Batter I. 

  1 cup  bread flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
 2  Eggs.  
 
  Mix  flour,   salt,  and  pepper.  Add  milk  gradually, and  eggs  well beaten.  

   Batter II. 

  1 cup  bread flour.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 2/3 cup  water.  
 1/2 tablespoon  olive oil.  
  White 1 egg.  
 
  Mix  flour,   sugar,  and  salt.  Add  water  gradually, then  olive oil  and  white of egg  beaten until stiff.  

   Batter III. 

  1 1/3 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients, add  milk  gradually, and  egg  well beaten.  

   Batter IV. 

  1 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 3 tablespoons  powdered sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients, add  milk  gradually, and  egg  well beaten.  

 

   Batter V. 

  1 cup  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 2/3 cup  milk  or  water.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter  or  olive oil.  
 
  Mix  salt  and  flour,  add  milk  gradually,  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick,  butter  and  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff.  

   Apple Fritters I. 

  2 medium-sized  sour apples.  
  Batter III.  
  Powdered sugar.  
 
  Pare, core, and cut  apples  in eighths, then cut eighths in slices and stir into batter. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep  fat.  (See Rules for Testing  Fat,  page 23.) Drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with  powdered sugar.  Serve hot on a folded napkin.  

   Apple Fritters II. 

  2 medium-sized  sour apples.  
  Batter IV.  
 Prepare and cook as Apple Fritters I. 
 
  

   Apple Fritters III. 

   Sour apples.  
  Powdered sugar.  
  Lemon juice.  
  Batter II.  
 
  Core, pare, and cut  apples  in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with  powdered sugar  and few drops  lemon juice;  cover, and let stand one-half hour. Drain, dip pieces in batter, fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Arrange on a folded napkin in form of a circle, and serve with  Sabyon or Hard Sauce.   

   Banana Fritters I. 

  4  bananas.  
  Powdered sugar.  
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 3 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
  Batter V.  
 
  Remove skins from  bananas.  Scrape  bananas,  cut in halves lengthwise, and cut halves in two pieces crosswise. 
 
 

Sprinkle with  powdered sugar,   lemon-juice,  and  wine;  cover, and let stand thirty minutes; drain, dip in batter, fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper. Sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and serve on a folded napkin.  

   Banana Fritters II. 

  3  bananas.  
 1 cup  bread flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 tablespoon  powdered sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients. Beat  egg  until light, add  milk,  and combine mixtures; then add  lemon juice  and  banana fruit  forced through a sieve. Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep  fat.  Drain on brown paper. Serve with  Lemon Sauce.   

   Orange Fritters. 

Peel two  oranges  and separate into sections. Make an opening in each section just large enough to admit of passage for seeds, which should be removed. Dip sections in  Batter II., III., IV., or V.,  and fry and serve same as other fritters.  

   Fruit Fritters. 

Fresh  peaches,   apricots,  or  pears  may be cut in pieces, dipped in  batter,  and fried same as other fritters.  Canned fruits  may be used, after draining from their syrup.  

   Cauliflower Fritters. 

   Cold cooked cauliflower.  
  Batter V.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Sprinkle pieces of  cauliflower  with  salt  and  pepper  and dip in  Batter I. or V.  Fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper.  

 

   Fried Celery. 

   Celery  cut in three-inch pieces. 
  Salt  and  pepper.  
  Batter I., III., or V.  
 
  Parboil  celery  until soft, drain, sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in batter, fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper. Serve with  Tomato Sauce.   

   Tomato Fritters. 

  1 can  tomatoes.  
 6  cloves.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 3 slices  onion.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  corn-starch.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Cook first four ingredients twenty minutes, rub all through a sieve except seeds, and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Melt  butter,  and when bubbling, add  corn-starch  and  tomato  gradually; cook two minutes, then add  egg  slightly beaten. Pour into a buttered shallow tin and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, diamonds, or  s. Roll in  crumbs,   eggs,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Cherry Fritters. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  corn-starch.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  cold milk.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  Maraschino cherries  cut in halves. 
 
  Mix  corn-starch,   flour,   sugar,  and  salt.  Dilute with  cold milk  and add beaten  yolks;  then add gradually to  scalded milk  and cook fifteen minutes in  double boiler,  stirring constantly until thickened. Add  cherries,  pour into a buttered shallow tin, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, diamonds, or  s, dip in  flour,   egg,  and  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Serve with  Maraschino Sauce.   

 

   Maraschino Sauce. 

  2/3 cup  boiling water.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 1/4 cup  Maraschino cherries  cut in halves. 
 1/2 cup  Maraschino syrup.  
 1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Mix  sugar  and  corn-starch,  add gradually to  boiling water,  stirring constantly. Boil five minutes, and add  cherries,  syrup, and  butter.   

   Farina Cakes with Jelly. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/2 cup  farina  (scant). 
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Add  farina,   sugar,  and  salt  to  milk,  and cook in  double boiler  twenty minutes, stirring constantly until mixture has thickened. Add  egg  slightly beaten, pour into a buttered shallow pan, and brush over with one  egg  slightly beaten and diluted with one tablespoon  milk.  Brown in oven. Cut in squares, and serve with a cube of  jelly  on each square.  

   Gnocchi à la Romaine. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1/4 cup  corn-starch.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 3/4 cup  grated cheese.  
 
  Melt  butter,  and when bubbling, add  flour,   corn-starch,   salt,  and  milk,  gradually. Cook three minutes, stirring constantly. Add  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten, and one-half cup  cheese.  Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and cool. Turn on a board, cut in squares, diamonds, or  s. Place on a platter, sprinkle with remaining  cheese,  and brown in oven.  

   Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce. 

Make  Queen Fritters,  fill with  Chocolate Cream Filling,  and serve with  Vanilla Sauce;  filling to be cold and sauce warm.  

 

   Queen Fritters. 

  1/4 cup  butter  (scant). 
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 2  eggs.  
  Fruit preserve  or  marmalade.  
 
  Put  butter  in small saucepan and pour on  water.  As soon as  water  again reaches boiling point, add  flour  all at once, and stir until mixture leaves sides of saucepan, cleaving to spoon. Remove from fire and add  eggs  unbeaten, one at a time, beating mixture thoroughly between addition of  eggs.  Drop by spoonfuls and fry in deep  fat  until well puffed and browned. Drain, make an opening, and fill with  preserve  or  marmalade.  Sprinkle with  powdered sugar  and serve on a folded napkin.  

   Sponge Fritters. 

  2 2/3 cups  flour.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 7/8 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/3  yeast cake  dissolved in 2 tablespoons  lukewarm water.  
 1/3 cup  melted butter.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 2  eggs.  
  Grated rind 1/2 lemon.  
  Quince marmalade.  
  Currant jelly.  
 
  Make a sponge of one-half the  flour,   sugar,   milk,  and dissolved  yeast cake;  let rise to double its bulk. Add remaining ingredients and let rise again. Toss on a floured board, roll to one-fourth inch thickness, shape with a small  biscuit cutter  (first dipped in  flour ), cover, and let rise on board. Take each piece and hollow in centre to form a nest. In one-half the pieces put one-half teaspoon of  currant jelly  and  quince marmalade  mixed in the proportion of one part  jelly  to two parts  marmalade.  Brush with  milk,  edges of filled pieces. Cover with unfilled pieces and press edges closely together with fingers first dipped in  flour.  If this is not carefully done fritters will separate during frying. Fry in deep  fat,  drain on brown paper, and sprinkle with  powdered sugar.   

 
  
 
 

 Croquettes. 
 Before making Croquettes, consult Rules for Testing Fat for Frying, page 23; Egging and Crumbing, page 25; Uses for Stale Bread, page 69; and Potato Croquettes, page 282. 
   Cheese Croquettes. 

  3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 cup mild  cheese  cut in very small cubes. 
 1/2 grated  Gruyère cheese.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Make a thick white sauce, using  butter,   flour,  and  milk,  add  yolks of eggs  without first beating, and stir until well mixed; then add  cheese.  As soon as  grated cheese  melts, remove from fire and season with  salt,   pepper,  and  cayenne.  Spread in a shallow pan and cool. Turn on a board, cut in small squares or  s, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain on brown paper. Serve for a cheese course.  

   Chestnut Croquettes. 

  1 cup mashed  French chestnuts.  
 2 tablespoons  thick cream.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Shape in balls, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Rice Croquettes with Jelly. 

  1/2 cup  rice.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Wash  rice,  add to  water  with  salt,  cover, and steam until  rice  has absorbed  water.  Then add  milk,  stir lightly with a fork, cover, and steam until  rice  is soft. Remove from fire, add  egg yolks  and  butter;  spread on 
 
 

a shallow plate to cool. Shape in balls, roll in  crumbs,  then shape in form of nests. Dip in  egg,  again in  crumbs,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Put a cube of  jelly  in each croquette. Arrange on a folded napkin and garnish with  parsley,  or serve around  game.   

   Sweet Rice Croquettes. 

To  rice croquette mixture  add two tablespoons  powdered sugar  and  grated rind one-half lemon.  Shape in cylinder forms, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Rice and Tomato Croquettes. 

  1/2 cup  rice.  
 3/4 cup  stock.  
 1/2 can  tomatoes.  
 1 slice  onion.  
 1 slice  carrot.  
 1 sprig  parsley.  
 1 sprig  thyme.  
 2  cloves.  
 1/4 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1 teaspoon  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/4 cup  grated cheese.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Wash  rice,  and steam in stock until  rice  has absorbed stock; then add  tomatoes  which have been cooked twenty minutes with  onion,   carrot,   parsley,   thyme,   cloves,   peppercorns,  and  sugar,  and then rubbed through a strainer. Remove from fire, add  egg  slightly beaten,  cheese,   butter,   salt,  and  cayenne.  Spread on a plate to cool. Shape in form of cylinders, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes. 

  1/3 cup  macaroni  broken in 1/2 inch pieces. 
 1 pint  oysters.  
 1 cup  Thick White Sauce.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Few grains  mace.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 1/4 cup  grated cheese.  
 
  Cook  macaroni  in  boiling salted water  until soft, drain in a  colander,  and pour over  macaroni  two cups  cold water.  Clean and parboil  oysters,  remove tough muscles, and cut 
 
 

soft parts in pieces. Reserve one-half cup  oyster liquor  and use in making  Thick White Sauce  in place of all  milk.  Mix  macaroni  and  oysters,  add  Thick White Sauce  and seasonings. Spread on a plate to cool. Shape, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Salmon Croquettes. 

  1 3/4 cups  cold flaked salmon.  
 1 cup  Thick White Sauce.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
  Salt.  
 
  Add  sauce  to  salmon,  then add seasonings. Spread on a plate to cool. Shape, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain.  

   Salmon Cutlets. 

Mix equal parts of  cold flaked salmon  and  hot mashed potatoes.  Season with  salt  and  pepper.  Shape in form of cutlets, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Arrange in a circle, having cutlets overlap one another, on a folded napkin. Garnish with  parsley.   

   Lobster Croquettes. 

  2 cups chopped  lobster meat.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mustard.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon.  
 1 cup  Thick White Sauce.  
 
  Add seasonings to  lobster,  then add  Thick White Sauce.  Cool, shape, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Serve with  Tomato Cream Sauce.   

   Lobster Cutlets. 

  2 cups chopped  lobster meat.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 1 cup  Thick White Sauce.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given, and cool. Shape in form of cutlets, crumb, and fry same as croquettes. Make 
 
 

  Lobster Cutlets.  Lobster cutlets served in a ring with a mound of parsley garnishing the center of the dish.  
a cut at small end of each cutlet, and insert in each the tip end of a small claw. Stack around a mound of  parsley.  Serve with  Sauce Tartare.   

   Lamb Croquettes. 

  1 tablespoon finely chopped  onion.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  stock.  
 1 cup  cold cooked lamb  cut in small cubes. 
 2/3 cup  boiled potato cubes.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 
   Fry  onion  in  butter  five minutes, then remove  onion.  To  butter  add  flour  and  stock,  and cook two minutes. Add meat,  potato,   salt,  and  pepper.  Simmer until meat and  potato  have absorbed  sauce.  Add  parsley,  and spread on a shallow dish to cool. Shape, dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs  again, fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Serve with  Tomato Sauce.   

   Veal Croquettes. 

  2 cups chopped  cold cooked veal.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1 cup  thick sauce.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. In making the thick sauce, use  rich white stock  in place of milk. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other croquettes.  

 

   Chicken Croquettes I. 

  1 3/4 cups chopped  cold cooked fowl.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  celery salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 1 cup  Thick White Sauce.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other croquettes.  White meat of fowl absorbs more sauce than dark meat. This must be remembered if dark meat alone is used. Croquette mixtures should always be as soft as can be conveniently handled, when croquettes will be soft and creamy inside.  

   Chicken Croquettes II. 

Clean and dress a four-pound  fowl.  Put into a kettle with six cups  boiling water,  seven slices  carrot,  two slices  turnip,  one small  onion,  one stalk  celery,  one  bay leaf,  and three sprigs  thyme.  Cook slowly until  fowl  is tender. Remove  fowl;  strain liquor, cool, and skim off  fat.  Make a thick sauce, using one-fourth cup  butter,  one-half cup  flour,  one and one-third cups  chicken stock,  and one-half cup  cream.  Remove meat from  chicken,  chop, and moisten with  sauce.  Season with  salt,   cayenne,  and slight grating of  nutmeg;  then add one beaten  egg,  cool, shape, crumb, and fry same as other croquettes. Arrange around a mound of  green peas,  and serve with  Cream Sauce  or  Wine Jelly.   

   Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes. 

Make as Chicken Croquettes I., using one and one-third cups  chicken meat  and two-thirds cup chopped  mushrooms.   

 

   Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria. 

  2 pairs  parboiled sweetbreads.  
 2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 teaspoon  pepper.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 1  egg.  
 1 cup  Thick White Sauce.  
 
   Chop the  sweetbreads,  of which there should be two cups; if not enough, add chopped  mushrooms  to make two cups, then season. Add  egg  slightly beaten to  sauce,  and combine mixtures. Cool, shape, crumb, and fry. Make a cut in small end of each cutlet, and insert in each a piece of  cold boiled macaroni,  one and one-half inches long. Serve with  Allemande Sauce.   

  Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria.  An illustration of eight cutlets arranged on a round plate and garnished with parsley.  
 
   Swedish Timbales. 

 
 Each ingredient in the following list is preceded by a handwritten number calculated to multiply the recipe quantity by four. 
 
 Handwritten inscription: 3 
3/4 cup  flour.  
 
 Handwritten inscription: 2 
1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
 Handwritten inscription: 4 
1 teaspoon  sugar.  
 
 Handwritten inscription: 2 
1/2 cup  milk.  
 
 Handwritten inscription: 4 
1  egg.  
 
 Handwritten inscription: 4 
1 tablespoon  olive oil.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, add  milk  gradually, and beaten  egg;  then add  olive oil.  Shape, using a hot  timbale iron,  fry in deep  fat  until crisp and brown; take from iron and invert on brown paper to drain.  
 
 

  To Heat  Timbale Iron.   Heat  fat  until nearly hot enough to fry uncooked mixtures. Put iron into  hot fat,  having  fat  deep enough to more than cover it, and let stand until heated. The only way of knowing when iron is of right temperature is to take it from  fat,  shake what  fat  may drip from it, lower in batter to three-fourths its depth, raise from batter, then immerse in  hot fat.  If batter does not cling to iron, or drops from iron as soon as immersed in  fat,  it is either too hot or not sufficiently heated. 
  Timbale irons and cases.  A photograph of timbale irons propped on top of and next to a deep pot, with a number of timbale cases of various shapes arranged in front of the irons.  
  To Form Timbales.  Turn timbale batter into a cup. Lower hot iron into cup, taking care that  batter  covers iron to only three-fourths its depth. When immersed in  fat,  mixture will rise to top of iron, and when crisp and brown may be easily slipped off. If too much batter is used, in cooking it will rise over top of iron, and in order to remove timbale it must be cut around with a sharp knife close to top of iron. If the cases are soft rather than crisp, batter is too thick and must be diluted with  milk.   Fill cases with  Creamed Oysters, Chicken, Sweetbreads, or Chicken and Sweetbreads  in combination with  Mushrooms.   

 

   Strawberry Baskets. 

Fry  Swedish Timbales,  making cases one inch deep. Fill with selected  strawberries,  sprinkled with  powdered sugar.  Serve as a first course at a ladies' luncheon.  

   Rice Timbales. 

Pack  hot boiled rice  in slightly buttered small tin moulds. Let stand in  hot water  ten minutes. Use as a garnish for curried meat, fricassee, or boiled fowl.  

   Macaroni Timbales. 

Line slightly buttered  Dario moulds  with  boiled macaroni.  Cut  s the length of height of mould, and lace closely together around inside of mould. Fill with  chicken,  or  Salmon Force-meat.  Put in a pan, half surround with  hot water,  cover with buttered paper, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with  Lobster, Béchamel, or Hollandaise Sauce I.   

   Spaghetti Timbales. 

Line bottom and sides of slightly buttered  Dario moulds  with long  s of  boiled spaghetti  coiled around the inside. Fill and bake as Macaroni Timbales.  

   Halibut Timbales. 

  1 lb.  halibut.  
 1/3 cup  thick cream.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Cook  halibut  in  boiling salted water,  drain, and rub through a sieve. Season with  salt,   cayenne,  and  lemon juice;  add  cream  beaten until stiff, then beaten  whites of eggs.  Turn into small, slightly buttered moulds, put in a pan, half surround with  hot water,  cover with buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Remove 
 
 

from moulds, arrange on a  serving-dish,  pour around  Béchamel Sauce  or  Lobster Sauce II.,  and garnish with  parsley.   

   Lobster Timbales. 

Sprinkle slightly buttered  Dario or timbale moulds  with  lobster coral  rubbed through a strainer. Line moulds with  Fish Force-meat I.,  fill centres with  Creamed Lobster,  and cover with  force-meat.  Put in a pan, half surround with  hot water,  place over moulds buttered paper, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with  Lobster or Béchamel Sauce.   

  Lobster Cream.  Three moulds of lobster cream, one large and two small, served on a round platter with fancy garnishes.  
   Lobster Cream. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 1/2 cup  soft stale bread crumbs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/4 cup  cream.  
 2 teaspoons  Anchovy essence.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Remove  lobster meat  from shell and chop finely. Cook  bread  and  milk  ten minutes. Add  cream,  seasonings, and  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff. Turn into one slightly buttered  timbale mould  and two slightly buttered  Dario moulds.  Bake as Lobster Timbales. Remove to 
 
 

 serving-dish,  having larger mould in centre, smaller moulds one at either end. Pour around  Lobster Sauce II.,  sprinkle with  coral  rubbed through a sieve, and garnish with pieces of  lobster shell  from tail, and  parsley.   

   Chicken Timbales. 

Garnish slightly buttered  Dario moulds  with chopped  truffles  or slices of truffles cut in fancy shapes. Line with  Chicken Force-meat I.,  fill centres with  Creamed Chicken and Mushrooms,  to which has been added a few chopped truffles. Cover with  force-meat,  and bake as Lobster Timbales. Serve with  Béchamel or Yellow Béchamel Sauce.   

   Suprême of Chicken. 

   Breast and second joints of uncooked chicken  weighing 4 lbs. 
 4  eggs.  
 2/3 cup  thick cream.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Force  chicken  through a  meat chopper,  or chop very finely. Beat  eggs  separately, add one at a time, stirring until mixture is smooth. Add  cream,  and season with  salt  and  pepper.  Turn into slightly buttered  Dario moulds,  and bake as Lobster Timbales, allowing thirty minutes for baking. Serve with  Suprême or Béchamel Sauce.   

   Devilled Oysters. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped  parsley.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 Buttered  cracker crumbs.  
 
  Clean, drain, and slightly chop  oysters.  Make a sauce of  butter,   flour,  and  milk;  add  egg yolk,  seasonings, and  oysters.  Arrange  buttered scallop shells  in a  dripping- 
 
 

pan,  half fill with mixture, cover with  buttered crumbs,  and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Deep  oyster shells  may be used in place of scallop shells.  

   Devilled Crabs. 

  1 cup chopped  crab meat.  
 1/4 cup  mushrooms  finely chopped. 
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 2/3 cups  White Stock.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
 1 teaspoon finely chopped  parsley.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 
  Make a sauce of  butter,   flour,  and  stock;  add  yolks of eggs,  seasonings (except  parsley ),  crab meat,  and  mushrooms.  Cook three minutes, add  parsley,  and cool mixture. Wash and trim  crab shells,  fill rounding with mixture, sprinkle with  stale bread crumbs  mixed with a small quantity of  melted butter.  Crease on top with a  case knife,  having three lines parallel with each other across shell and three short lines branching from outside parallel lines.  

   Devilled Scallops. 

  1 quart  scallops.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/3 teaspoon  made mustard.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 2/3 cup  buttered cracker crumbs.  
 
   Clean  scallops,  drain, and heat to the boiling point; drain again, and reserve liquor. Cream the  butter,  add  mustard,   salt,   cayenne,  two-thirds cup  reserved liquor,  and  scallops  chopped. Let stand one-half hour. Put in a baking-dish, cover with  crumbs,  and bake twenty minutes.  

   Fried Oyster Crabs. 

Wash and drain  crabs.  Roll in  flour  and shake in a sieve to remove superfluous  flour.  Fry in a basket in deep  fat,  having  fat  same temperature as for cooked mixtures. Drain and place on a napkin, and garnish with  parsley  and slices of  lemon.  Serve with  Sauce Tyrolienne.   

 

   Cutlets of Chicken. 

Remove fillets from two  chickens;  for directions, see page 218. Make six parallel slanting incisions in each mignon fillet and insert in each a slice of  truffle,  having the part of truffle exposed cut in points on edge. Arrange small fillets on large fillets. Garnish with  truffles  cut in small shapes, and  Chicken Force-meat  forced through a pastry bag and tube. Place in a greased pan, add one-third cup  White Stock,  cover with buttered paper, and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve with  Suprême or Béchamel Sauce.   

   Fillets of Game. 

Remove skin from  breasts of three partridges.  Cut off  breasts,  leaving wing joints attached. Separate large from mignon fillets. Make five parallel slanting incisions in each mignon fillet, and insert in each a slice of  truffle,  having part of truffle exposed cut in points on edge. Beginning at outer edge of large fillets make deep cuts, nearly separating fillets in two parts, and stuff with  Chicken Force-meat I. or II.  Arrange small fillets on large fillets. Place in a greased  baking-pan,  brush over with  butter,  add one tablespoon  Madeira wine  and two tablespoons  mushroom liquor.  Cover with buttered paper, and bake twelve minutes in a hot oven. Serve with  Suprême Sauce.   

   Chickens' Livers en Brochette. 

Cut each  liver  in four pieces. Alternate pieces of  liver  and pieces of thinly sliced  bacon  on  skewers,  allowing one  liver  and five pieces of  bacon  for each  skewer.  Balance  skewers  in upright positions on rack in  dripping-pan.  Bake in a hot oven until  bacon  is crisp. Serve garnished with  watercress.   

 

   Cheese Fondue. 

  1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1 cup  soft stale bread crumbs.  
 1/4 lb.  mild cheese  cut in small pieces. 
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Mix first five ingredients, add  yolks of eggs  beaten until lemon-colored. Cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff. Pour in a buttered baking-dish, and bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Cheese Soufflé. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/4 cup grated  Old English or Young America cheese.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Melt  butter,  add  flour,  and when well mixed add gradually  scalded milk.  Then add  salt,   cayenne,  and  cheese.  Remove from fire, add  yolks of eggs  beaten until lemon-colored. Cool mixture, and cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff and dry. Pour into a buttered baking-dish, and bake twenty minutes in a slow oven. Serve at once.  

   Ramequins Soufflés. 

Bake  Cheese Soufflé mixture  in  ramequin dishes.  Serve for a course in a dinner.  

   Watrouskis. 

  1/2 cup  grated mild cheese.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Few grains  mace.  
 1  egg.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix  cheese  with seasonings. Beat  egg  and  yolk of egg  slightly, add  butter,  and mix with  cheese.  Fill buttered  ramequin dishes  with mixture, and bake fifteen minutes in a moderate oven.  

 

   Compote of Rice with Peaches. 

Wash two-thirds cup  rice,  add one cup  boiling water,  and steam until  rice  has absorbed  water;  then add one and one-third cups  hot milk,  one teaspoon  salt,  and one-fourth cup  sugar.  Cook until  rice  is soft. Turn into a slightly buttered round shallow mould. When shaped, remove from mould to  serving-dish,  and arrange on top sections of  cooked peaches  drained from their syrup and dipped in  macaroon dust.  Garnish between sections with  candied cherries  and  angelica  cut in leaf-shapes.  Angelica  may be softened by dipping in  hot water.  Color  peach syrup  with  fruit red,  and pour around mould.  

   Compote of Rice and Pears. 

Cook and mould  rice  as for Compote of Rice with Peaches. Arrange on top, quarters of  cooked pears,  and pour around  pear syrup.   

   Croustades of Bread. 

Cut  stale bread  in diamonds, squares, or circles. Remove centres, leaving cases. Fry in deep  fat  or brush over with  melted butter,  and brown in oven. Fill with  creamed vegetables,   fish,  or  meat.   

   Rice Croustades. 

Wash one cup  rice,  and steam in  White Stock.  Cool, and mix with three-fourths cup  Thick White Sauce,  to which has been added beaten  yolk of one egg,  slight grating of  nutmeg,  one-half teaspoon  salt,  and one-eighth teaspoon  pepper.  Spread mixture in buttered pan two inches thick, cover with buttered paper, and place weight on top. Let stand until cold. Turn from pan, cut in rounds, remove centres, leaving cases; dip in  crumbs,   egg,  and  crumbs,  and fry in deep  fat.  Fill with  creamed fish.   

 

   Soufflé au Rhum. 

   Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  rum.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 
  Beat  yolks of eggs  until lemon-colored. Add  sugar,   salt,  and  rum.  Cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff and dry. Butter a hot  omelet pan,  pour in one-half mixture, brown underneath, fold gradually, turn on a hot  serving-dish,  and sprinkle with  powdered sugar.  Cook remaining mixture in same way. Soufflé au Rhum should be slightly underdone inside. At gentlemen's dinners  rum  is sometimes poured around soufflé and lighted when sent to table.  

   Omelet Soufflé. 

   Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 
  Prepare as Soufflé au Rhum. Mound three-fourths of mixture on a slightly buttered platter. Decorate mound with remaining mixture forced through a pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Patties. 

 Patty shells  are filled with  Creamed Oysters,   Oysters in Brown Sauce,   Creamed Chicken,   Creamed Chicken and Mushrooms,  or  Creamed Sweetbreads.  They are arranged on a folded napkin, and are served for a course at dinner or luncheon.  

   Bouchées. 

Small  pastry shells  filled with  creamed meat  are called bouchées.  

   Vol-au-vents. 

 Vol-au-vents  are filled as patty shells.  

 

   Rissoles. 

Roll  puff paste  to one-eighth inch thickness, and cut in rounds. Place one teaspoon finely chopped  seasoned meat  moistened with  Thick White Sauce  on each round. Brush each piece with  cold water  half-way round close to edge. Fold like a turnover, and press edges together. Dip in  egg  slightly beaten and diluted with one tablespoon  water.  Roll in  gelatine,  fry in deep  fat,  and drain. Granulated gelatine cannot be used.   Filling for Rissoles.  Mix one-half cup finely chopped  cold cooked chicken  with one-fourth cup finely chopped  cooked ham.  Moisten with  Thick White Sauce,  and season with  salt  and  cayenne.   

   Cheese Soufflée with Pastry. 

  2  eggs.  
 2/3 cup  thick cream.  
 1/2 cup  Swiss cheese  cut in small dice. 
 1/2 cup grated  American cheese.  
 1/3 cup grated  Parmesan cheese.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 
  Add  eggs  to  cream  and beat slightly, then add  cheese  and seasonings. Line the sides of  ramequin dishes  with  s of  puff paste.  Fill dishes with mixture until two-thirds full. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven.  

   Aspic Jelly. 

   Carrot,  } 
  Onion,   } 2 tablespoons each, cut in cubes. 
  Celery,  } 
 2 sprigs  parsley.  
 2 sprigs  thyme.  
 1 sprig  savory.  
 2  cloves.  
 1/2 teaspoon  peppercorns.  
 1  bay leaf.  
 7/8 cup  white wine.  
 1 box  gelatine.  
 1 quart  White Stock  for  vegetables  and  white meat,  or 
 1 quart  Brown Stock  for dark  meat.  
  Juice 1 lemon.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Aspic jelly is always made with  meat stock,  and is principally used in elaborate entrées where  fish,   chicken,  
 
 

 game,  or  vegetables  are to be served moulded in jelly. In making Aspic Jelly, use as much liquid as the pan which is to contain moulded dish will hold.  Put  vegetables,   seasonings,  and  wine  (except two tablespoons) in a saucepan; cook eight minutes, and strain, reserving liquid. Add  gelatine  to  stock,  then add  lemon juice.  Heat to boiling point and add strained liquid. Season with  salt  and  cayenne.  Beat  whites of eggs  slightly, add two tablespoons  wine,  and dilute with one cup hot mixture. Add slowly to remaining mixture, stirring constantly until boiling point is reached. Place on back of range and let stand thirty minutes. Strain through a double  cheese cloth  placed over a fine wire strainer, or through a  jelly bag.   

   Tomatoes in Aspic. 

Peel six small firm  tomatoes,  and remove pulp, having opening in tops as small as possible. Sprinkle insides with  salt,  invert, and let stand thirty minutes. Fill with  vegetable or chicken salad.  Cover tops with  Mayonnaise  to which has been added a small quantity of  dissolved gelatine,  and garnish with  capers  and sliced  pickles.  Place a pan in  ice water,  cover bottom with  aspic jelly mixture,  and let stand until  jelly  is firm. Arrange  tomatoes  on  jelly  garnished side down. Add more aspic  jelly  mixture, let stand until firm, and so continue until all is used. Chill thoroughly, turn on a  serving-dish,  and garnish around base with  parsley.   

   Tongue in Aspic. 

Cook a  tongue  according to directions on page 184. After removing skin and roots, run a  skewer  through tip of  tongue  and fleshy part, thus keeping  tongue  in shape. When cool, remove  skewer.  Put a round pan in  ice water,  cover bottom with  brown aspic,  and when firm decorate with  cooked carrot,   turnip,   beet  cut in fancy 
 
 

shapes, and  parsley.  Cover with  aspic jelly mixture,  adding it by spoonfuls so as not to disarrange vegetables. When this layer of mixture is firm, put in  tongue,  adding gradually remaining mixture as in Tomatoes in Aspic.  

   Birds in Aspic. 

Clean, bone, stuff, and truss a  bird,  then steam over  body bones  or roast. If roasted, do not dredge with  flour.  Put a pan in  ice water,  cover bottom with  aspic jelly mixture,  and when firm garnish with  truffles  and  egg custard  thinly sliced and cut in fancy shapes. The smaller the shapes the more elaborate may be the designs. When garnishing with small shapes, pieces are so difficult to handle that they should be taken on the pointed end of a  larding-needle,  and placed as desired on  jelly.  Add  aspic mixture  by spoonfuls, that designs may not be disturbed. When mixture is added, and firm to the depth of three-fourths inch, place in the bird, breast down. If sides of mould are to be decorated, dip pieces in  jelly  and they will cling to pan. Add remaining mixture gradually as in Tomatoes in Aspic.  Small birds,   chicken,  or  turkey,  may be put in aspic.  

   Egg Custard for Decorating. 

Separate  yolks  from  whites of two eggs.  Beat  yolks  slightly, add two tablespoons  milk  and few grains  salt.  Strain into a buttered cup, put in a saucepan, surround with  boiling water  to one-half depth of cup, cover, put on back of range, and steam until custard is firm. Beat  whites  slightly, add few grains  salt,  and cook as  yolks.  Cool, turn from cups, cut in thin slices, then in desired shapes.  

   Stuffing for Chicken in Aspic. 

Chop finely  breast and meat from second joints of an uncooked chicken,  or one pound of  uncooked lean 
 
 

veal.  Add one-half cup  cracker crumbs,   hot stock  to moisten,  salt,   pepper,   celery salt,   cayenne,   lemon juice,  and one  egg  slightly beaten. In  stuffing  boned  chicken,  stuff body, legs, and wings, being careful that too much  stuffing  is not used, as an allowance must be made for the swelling of  cracker crumbs.   

   Chaud-froid of Chicken. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3 trablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  White Stock.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 2 tablespoons  cream.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
  Salt  and  pepper.  
 3/4 teaspoon  granulated gelatine  dissolved in one tablespoon  hot water.  
  Aspic jelly.  
  Truffles.  
 6 pieces  cooked chicken  shaped in form of cutlets. 
 
  Make a sauce of  butter,   flour,  and  stock;  add  egg yolk  diluted with  cream,   lemon juice,   salt,  and  pepper;  then add dissolved gelatine. Dip  chicken  in  sauce  which has been allowed to cool. When  chicken  has cooled, garnish upper side with truffles cut in shapes. Brush over with  aspic jelly mixture,  and chill. Arrange a bed of  lettuce;  in centre pile  cold cooked asparagus tips  or  celery  cut in small pieces, marinated with  French Dressing,  and place  chicken  at base of salad.  

   Rum Cakes. 

Shape  Brioche dough  in the form of large biscuits and put into buttered individual tin moulds, having moulds two-thirds full; cover, and let rise to fill moulds. Bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from moulds and dip in  Rum Sauce.  Arrange on a dish and pour remaining  sauce  around cakes.  

   Rum Sauce. 

  1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1/4 cup  rum  or  wine.  
 
  Make a syrup by  boiling sugar  and  water  five minutes; then add  rum  or  wine.   

 

   Flûtes. 

Shape  Brioche dough  in sticks similar to Bread Sticks. Place on a buttered sheet, cover, and let rise fifteen minutes. Brush over with  white of one egg  slightly beaten and diluted with one-half tablespoon  cold water.  Sprinkle with  powdered sugar  and bake ten minutes. These are delicious served with  coffee  or  chocolate.   

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 HOT PUDDINGS. 
   Rice Pudding. 

  4 cups  milk.  
 1/3 cup  rice.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
  Grated rind 1/2 lemon.  
 
  Wash  rice,  mix ingredients, and pour into buttered  pudding-dish;  bake three hours in very slow oven, stirring three times during first hour of baking to prevent  rice  from settling.  

   Poor Man's Pudding. 

  4 cups  milk.  
 1/2 cup  rice.  
 1/3 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Wash  rice,  mix and bake same as Rice Pudding. At last stirring, add  butter.   

   Indian Pudding. 

  5 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/3 cup  Indian meal.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  ginger.  
 
  Pour  milk  slowly on meal, cook in  double boiler  twenty minutes, add  molasses,   salt,  and  ginger;  pour into buttered  pudding-dish  and bake two hours in slow oven; serve with  cream.  If baked too rapidly it will not whey.  Ginger  may be omitted.  

 

   Cerealine Pudding (Mock Indian). 

  4 cups  scalded milk.  
 2 cups  cerealine.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Pour  milk  on cerealine, add remaining ingredients, pour into buttered  pudding-dish,  and bake one hour in slow oven. Serve with  cream.   

   Apple Tapioca. 

  3/4 cup  pearl tapioca.  
  Cold water.  
 2 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 7  sour apples.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 
  Soak  tapioca  one hour in  cold water  to cover, drain, add  boiling water  and  salt;  cook in  double boiler  until transparent. Core and pare  apples,  arrange in buttered  pudding-dish,  fill cavities with  sugar,  pour over  tapioca,  and bake in moderate oven until  apples  are soft. Serve with  sugar  and  cream  or  Cream Sauce I.   

   Tapioca Custard Pudding. 

  4 cups  scalded milk.  
 2/3 cup  pearl tapioca.  
 3  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Soak  tapioca  one hour in  cold water  to cover, drain, add to  milk,  and cook in  double boiler  thirty minutes; beat  eggs  slightly, add  sugar  and  salt,  pour on gradually hot mixture, turn into buttered  pudding-dish,  add  butter,  bake thirty minutes in slow oven.  

   Peach Tapioca. 

  1 can  peaches.  
 1/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1 cup  tapioca.  
 Boiling  water.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Drain  peaches,  sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and let stand one hour; soak  tapioca  one hour in  cold water  to 
 
 

cover; to  peach syrup  add enough  boiling water  to make three cups; heat to boiling point, add  tapioca  drained from  cold water,   sugar,  and  salt;  then cook in  double boiler  until transparent. Line a mould or  pudding-dish  with  peaches  cut in quarters, fill with  tapioca,  and bake in moderate oven thirty minutes; cool slightly, turn on a dish, and serve with  Cream Sauce I.   

   Scalloped Apples. 

  1 small stale  baker's loaf.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 quart sliced  apples.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
  Grated rind and juice of 1/2 lemon.  
 
  Cut loaf in halves, remove soft part, and crumb by rubbing through a  colander;  melt  butter  and stir in lightly with fork; cover bottom of buttered  pudding-dish  with  crumbs  and spread over one-half the  apples,  sprinkle with one-half  sugar,   nutmeg,   lemon juice  and  rind  mixed together; repeat, cover with remaining  crumbs,  and bake forty minutes in moderate oven. Cover at first to prevent  crumbs  browning too rapidly. Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Bread Pudding. 

  2 cups  stale bread crumbs.  
 1 quart  scalded milk.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/4 teaspoon  spice.  
 
  Soak  bread crumbs  in  milk,  set aside until cool; add  sugar,   butter,   eggs  slightly beaten,  salt,  and flavoring; bake one hour in buttered budding-dish in slow oven; serve with  Vanilla Sauce.  In preparing  bread crumbs  for puddings avoid using outside crusts. With a coarse  grater  there need be but little waste.  

   Cracker Custard Pudding. 

Make same as Bread Pudding, using two-thirds cup  cracker crumbs  in place of bread crumbs; after baking, cover with  meringue  made of  whites two eggs,  one-fourth 
 
 

cup  powdered sugar,  and one tablespoon  lemon juice;  return to oven to cook meringue.  

   Bread and Butter Pudding. 

  1 small stale  baker's loaf.  
  Butter.  
 3  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 quart  milk.  
 
  Remove end crusts from  bread,  cut loaf in one-half inch slices, spread each slice generously with  butter;  arrange in buttered  pudding-dish,  buttered side down. Beat  eggs  slightly, add  sugar,   salt,  and  milk;  strain, and pour over  bread;  let stand thirty minutes. Bake one hour in slow oven, covering the first half-hour of baking. The top of pudding should be well browned. Serve with  Hard or Creamy Sauce.  Three-fourths cup  raisins,  parboiled in  boiling water  to cover, and seeded, may be sprinkled between layers of  bread.   

   Chocolate Bread Pudding. 

  2 cups  stale bread crumbs.  
 4 cups  scalded milk.  
 2 squares  Baker's chocolate.  
 2/3 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Soak  bread  in  milk  thirty minutes; melt  chocolate  in saucepan placed over  hot water,  add one-half  sugar  and enough  milk  taken from  bread  and  milk  to make of consistency to pour; add to mixture with remaining  sugar,   salt,   vanilla,  and  eggs  slightly beaten; turn into buttered  pudding-dish  and bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve with  Hard or Cream Sauce I.   

   Cottage Pudding. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  egg  well beaten; mix and sift  flour,   baking powder,  and  salt;  add 
 
 

alternately with  milk  to first mixture; turn into buttered cake-pan; bake thirty-five minutes. Serve with  Vanilla or Hard Sauce.   

   Strawberry Cottage Pudding. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Mix same as Cottage Pudding, and bake twenty-five minutes in shallow pan; cut in squares and serve with  strawberries  (sprinkled with  sugar  and slightly mashed) and  Cream Sauce I.    Sliced   peaches  

  may be used in place of  strawberries.    

   Orange Puffs. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Mix same as Cottage Pudding, and bake in buttered individual tins. Serve with  Orange Sauce.   

   Custard Soufflé. 

  3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 4  eggs.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 
  Melt  butter,  add  flour,  and gradually  hot milk;  when well thickened, pour on to  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon colored, and mixed with  sugar;  cool, and cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten stiff and dry. Turn into buttered  pudding-dish,  and bake from thirty to thirty-five minutes in slow oven; take from oven and serve at once,--if not served immediately it is sure to fall; serve with  Creamy or Foamy Sauce.   

 

   Lemon Soufflé. 

   Yolks 4 eggs.  
  Grated rind and juice 1 lemon.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 
  Beat  yolks  until thick and lemon colored, add  sugar  gradually and continue beating, then add  lemon rind and juice.  Cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten until dry; turn into buttered  pudding-dish,  set in pan of  hot water,  and bake thirty-five to forty minutes. Serve with or without  sauce.   

   Fruit Soufflé. 

  3/4 cup  fruit pulp, peach, apricot, or quince.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
  Sugar.  
 
  Rub fruit through sieve; if canned fruit is used, first drain from syrup. Heat and sweeten if needed; beat  whites of eggs  until stiff, add gradually  hot fruit pulp,  and continue beating; turn into buttered and sugared individual moulds, having them three-fourths full; set moulds in pan of  hot water  and bake in slow oven until firm, which may be determined by pressing with finger; serve with  Sabyon Sauce.   

   Spanish Soufflé. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  stale bread crumbs.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 3  eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Melt  butter,  add  crumbs,  cook until slightly browned, stirring often; add  milk  and  sugar,  cook twenty minutes in  double boiler;  remove from fire, add unbeaten  yolks of eggs,  then cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff, and flavor. Bake as Fruit Soufflé.  

   Chestnut Soufflé. 

  1/4 cup  sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  chestnut purée.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Mix  sugar  and  flour,  add  chestnuts  and  milk  gradually; cook five minutes, stirring constantly; beat  whites of eggs  
 
 

until stiff, and cut and fold into mixture. Bake as Fruit Soufflé; serve with  Cream Sauce.   

   Steamed Apple Pudding. 

  2 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 4  apples  cut in eighths. 
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in  butter  with tips of fingers, add  milk  gradually, mixing with a knife; toss on floured board, pat and roll out, place  apples  on middle of dough, and sprinkle with one tablespoon  sugar  mixed with one-fourth teaspoon each of  salt  and  nutmeg;  bring dough around  apples  and carefully lift into buttered mould or  five-pound lard pail;  or  apples  may be sprinkled over dough, and dough rolled like a jelly roll; cover closely and steam one hour and twenty minutes; serve with  Vanilla or Cold Sauce.  Twice the number of  apples  may be sprinkled with  sugar  and cooked until soft in granite kettle placed on top of range, covered with dough, rolled size to fit in kettle, then kettle covered tightly and dough steamed fifteen minutes. When turned on dish for serving,  apples  will be on top.  

   Steamed Blueberry Pudding. 

Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in  butter  same as for Steamed Apple Pudding. Add one cup each of  milk,  and  blueberries  rolled in  flour;  turn into buttered mould and steam one and one-half hours. Serve with  Creamy Sauce.   

   Steamed Cranberry Pudding. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 3  eggs.  
 3 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1 1/4 tablespoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 1/2 cups  cranberries.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  eggs  well beaten. Mix and sift  flour  and  baking powder  and add 
 
 

alternately with  milk  to first mixture, stir in berries previously washed, turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam three hours. Serve with  thin cream,  sweetened and flavored with  nutmeg.   

   Ginger Pudding. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 2 1/4 cups  flour.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  egg  well beaten; mix and sift dry ingredients; add alternately with  milk  to first mixture. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve with  Vanilla Sauce.   

   Harvard Pudding. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1  egg.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in  butter  with tips of fingers; beat  egg,  add  milk,  and combine mixtures; turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two hours; serve with  warm apple sauce  and  Hard Sauce.   

   Apple Sauce. 

Pick over and wash  dried apples,  soak over night in  cold water  to cover; cook until soft; sweeten, and flavor with  lemon juice.   

   Swiss Pudding. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 7/8 cup  flour.  
 2 cups  milk.  
  Grated rind one lemon.  
 5  eggs.  
 1/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  flour  gradually; scald  milk  with  lemon rind,  add to first mixture, and cook five minutes in  double boiler.  Beat  yolks of eggs  until thick and lemon colored, add  sugar  gradually, then add to cooked 
 
 

mixture; cool, and cut and fold in  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam one and one-fourth hours; while steaming, be sure  water  surrounds mould to half its depth.  

   Snow Balls. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 1/4 cups  flour.  
 3 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  milk,  and  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder;  then add the  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Steam thirty-five minutes in buttered cups; serve with  preserved fruit,   quince marmalade,  or  strawberry sauce.   

   Graham Pudding. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1 1/2 cups  Graham flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 
  Melt  butter,  add  molasses,   milk,   egg  well beaten, dry ingredients mixed and sifted, and  raisins;  turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam two and one-half hours. Serve with  Wine Sauce.   Dates  or  figs  cut in small pieces may be used in place of  raisins.   

   St. James Pudding. 

  3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
  Salt,     } 
  Clove,    } 
  Allspice, } 1/4 teaspoon each. 
  Nutmeg,   } 
 1/2 lb.  dates  stoned and cut in pieces. 
 
  Mix and steam same as  Graham  Pudding. A simple, delicious pudding without egg. Puddings may be nicely 
 
 

steamed in buttered one-pound baking-powder boxes, and are attractive in shape and easy to serve.  

   Suet Pudding. 

  1 cup finely chopped  suet.  
 1 cup  molasses.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
  Ginger,  } 
  Clove,   }1/2 teaspoon each. 
  Nutmeg,  } 
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 
  Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add  molasses  and  milk  to  suet;  combine mixtures. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam three hours; serve with  Egg Sauce.   Raisins  and  currants  may be added.  

   Thanksgiving Pudding. 

  4 cups  scalded milk.  
 1 1/4 cups  rolled crackers.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 4  eggs.  
 1/3 cup  melted butter.  
 1/2 grated  nutmeg.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 1/2 cups  raisins.  
 
  Pour  milk  over  crackers  and let stand until cool; add  sugar,   eggs  slightly beaten,  nutmeg,   salt,  and  butter;  parboil  raisins  until soft, by cooking in  boiling water  to cover; seed, and add to mixture; turn into buttered  pudding-dish  and bake slowly two and one-half hours, stirring after first half-hour to prevent  raisins  from settling; serve with  Brandy Sauce.   

   Hunter's Pudding. 

  1 cup finely chopped  suet.  
 1 cup  molasses.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
  Clove,    } 
  Mace,     }1/2 teaspoon each. 
  Allspice, } 
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1 1/2 cups  raisins.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Mix same as Suet Pudding. Stone, cut, and flour  raisins,  then add to mixture. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam three hours.  

 

   French Fruit Pudding. 

  1 cup finely chopped  suet.  
 1 cup  molasses.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 1/4 cups  raisins  seeded and chopped. 
 3/4 cup  currants.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 
  Add  molasses  and  sour milk  to  suet;  add two cups  flour  mixed and sifted with  soda,   salt,  and  spices;  add fruit mixed with remaining  flour.  Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam four hours. Serve with  Sterling Sauce.   

   English Plum Pudding. 

  1/2 lb.  stale bread crumbs.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/4 lb.  sugar.  
 4  eggs.  
 1/2 lb.  raisins,  seeded, cut in pieces, and floured. 
 1/4 lb.  currants.  
 1/4 lb. finely chopped  figs.  
 2 oz. finely cut  citron.  
 1/2 lb.  suet.  
 1/4 cup  wine  and  brandy  mixed. 
 1/2 grated  nutmeg.  
 3/4 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/3 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/2 teaspoon  mace.  
 
  Soak  bread crumbs  in  milk,  let stand until cool, add  sugar,  beaten  yolks of eggs,   raisins,   currants,   figs,  and  citron;  chop  suet,  and cream by using the hand; combine mixtures, then add  wine,   brandy,   nutmeg,   cinnamon,   clove,   mace,  and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Turn into buttered mould, cover, and steam six hours.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 PUDDING SAUCES. 
   Lemon Sauce I. 

  3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  water.  
 2 teaspoons  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Make a syrup by  boiling sugar  and  water  eight minutes; remove from fire; add  butter  and  lemon juice.   

   Lemon Sauce II. 

  1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 2 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 
  Mix  sugar  and  corn-starch,  add  water  gradually, stirring constantly; boil five minutes, remove from fire, add  butter,   lemon juice,  and  nutmeg.   

   Vanilla Sauce. 

Make as Lemon Sauce II., using one teaspoon  vanilla  in place of lemon juice and nutmeg.  

   Molasses Sauce. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice  or 
 1 tablespoon  vinegar.  
 
  Boil  molasses  and  butter  five minutes; remove from fire and add  lemon juice.   

 

   Cream Sauce I. 

  3/4 cup  thick cream.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Mix  cream  and  milk,  beat until stiff, using  egg beater;  add  sugar  and  vanilla.   

   Cream Sauce II. 

  1  egg.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 cup  thick cream.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  white of egg  until stiff; add  yolk of egg  well beaten, and  sugar  gradually; dilute  cream  with  milk,  beat until stiff, combine mixtures, and flavor.  

   Yellow Sauce I. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla  and 
 1 tablespoon  brandy.  
 
  Beat  eggs  until very light, add  sugar  gradually and continue beating; then flavor.  

   Yellow Sauce II. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  wine.  
 
  Beat  yolks of eggs  until thick, add one-half  sugar  gradually; beat  whites of eggs  until stiff, add gradually remaining  sugar;  combine mixtures, and add  wine.   

   Orange Sauce. 

   Whites 3 eggs.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
  Juice and rind 2 oranges.  
  Juice 1 lemon.  
 
  Beat  whites  until stiff, add  sugar  gradually and continue beating; add  rind  and  fruit juices;  use  blood oranges  when possible.  

 

   Strawberry Sauce. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 2/3 cup  strawberries.  
 
  Make as Hard Sauce, add  strawberries,  and beat until berries are well mashed.  

   Creamy Sauce I. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  powdered sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  wine.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  milk  and  wine  drop by drop. If liquids are added too fast the sauce will have a curdled appearance; it should be of soft, smooth consistency.  

   Creamy Sauce II. 

Use same proportions as given in Recipe I. If not careful in adding liquids, it will curdle; but this will make no difference, as the sauce is to be warmed over  hot water.  By careful watching and constant stirring, the ingredients will be perfectly blended; it should be creamy in consistency.  

   Foamy Sauce I. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  wine.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add gradually  sugar,   egg  well beaten, and  wine;  beat while heating over  hot water.   

   Foamy Sauce II. 

   Whites 2 eggs.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 cup  hot milk.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  eggs  until stiff, add  sugar  gradually and continue beating; add  milk  and  vanilla.   

 

   Chocolate Sauce. 

  2 cups  milk.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 2 squares  Baker's chocolate.  
 4 tablespoons  powdered sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  hot water.  
 2  eggs.  
 2/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Scald one and three-fourths cup  milk,  add  corn-starch  diluted with remaining  milk,  and cook eight minutes in  double boiler;  melt  chocolate  over  hot water,  add four tablespoons  sugar  and  hot water,  stir until smooth, then add to cooked mixture; beat  whites of eggs  until stiff, add gradually  powdered sugar  and continue beating, then add unbeaten  yolks,  and stir into cooked mixture; cook one minute, add  vanilla,  and cool before serving.  

   Sabyon Sauce. 

   Grated rind and juice 1/2 lemon.  
 1/2 cup  white wine  or 
 1/4 cup  sherry.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 
  Mix  lemon,   wine,   sugar,  and  yolks of eggs;  stir vigorously over fire until it thickens, using a  wire whisk;  pour on to  whites of eggs  beaten stiff.  

   Hard Sauce. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/3 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 2/3 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and flavoring.  

   Sterling Sauce. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  brown sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 2 tablespoons  wine.  
 4 tablespoons  cream  or  milk.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  milk  and flavoring drop by drop to prevent separation.  

 

   Wine Sauce. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  sherry  or 
  Madeira wine.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  wine  slowly; pile on glass dish, and sprinkle with grated  nutmeg.   

   Brandy Sauce. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  brandy.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk  or  cream.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, then  brandy  very slowly, well beaten  yolks,  and  milk  or  cream.  Cook over  hot water  until it thickens as a custard, pour on to beaten  whites.   

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXV. 
 COLD DESSERTS. 
   Irish Moss Blanc-Mange. 

  1/3 cup  Irish moss.  
 4 cups  milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  vanilla.  
 
  Soak moss fifteen minutes in  cold water  to cover, drain, pick over, and add to  milk;  cook in  double boiler  thirty minutes; the  milk  will seem but little thicker than when put on to cook, but if cooked longer blanc-mange will be too stiff. Add  salt,  strain, flavor, re-strain, and fill individual moulds previously dipped in  cold water;  chill, turn on glass dish, surround with thin slices of  banana,  and place a slice on each mould. Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Chocolate Blanc-Mange. 

 Irish Moss Blanc-Mange  flavored with  chocolate.  Melt one and one-half squares  Baker's chocolate,  add one-fourth cup  sugar  and one-third cup  boiling water,  stir until perfectly smooth, adding to  milk  just before taking from fire. Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Rebecca Pudding. 

  4 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/2 cup  corn-starch.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  cold milk.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Mix  corn-starch,   sugar,  and  salt,  dilute with  cold milk,  add to  scalded milk,  stirring constantly until mixture 
 
 

thickens, afterwards occasionally; cook fifteen minutes. Add flavoring and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff, mix thoroughly, mould, chill, and serve with  Yellow Sauce I. or II.   

   Moulded Snow. 

Make as Rebecca Pudding, and serve with  Chocolate Sauce.   

   Chocolate Cream. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 5 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 cup  cold milk.  
 1 1/2 squares  Baker's chocolate.  
 3 tablespoons  hot water.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Mix  corn-starch,   sugar,  and  salt,  dilute with  cold milk,  add to  scalded milk,  and cook over  hot water  ten minutes, stirring constantly until thickened; melt  chocolate,  add  hot water,  stir until smooth, and add to cooked mixture; add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff, and  vanilla.  Mould, chill, and serve with  cream.   

   Pineapple Pudding. 

  2 3/4 cups  scalded milk.  
 1/4 cup  cold milk.  
 1/3 cup  corn-starch.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 can grated  pineapple.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Follow directions for Rebecca Pudding, and add  pineapple  just before moulding. Fill individual moulds, previously dipped in  cold water.  Serve with  cream.   

   Boiled Custard. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/3 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add  sugar  and  salt;  stir constantly while adding gradually  hot milk.  Cook in  double boiler,  continue stirring until mixture thickens and a coating is 
 
 

formed on the spoon, strain immediately; chill and flavor. If cooked too long the custard will curdle; should this happen, by using a  Dover egg-beater  it may be restored to a smooth consistency, but custard will not be as thick.  Eggs  should be beaten slightly for custard, that it may be of smooth, thick consistency. To prevent scum from forming, cover with a perforated tin. When  eggs  are scarce, use  yolks two eggs  and one-half tablespoon  corn-starch.   

   Tipsy Pudding. 

Flavor  Boiled Custard  with  sherry wine,  and pour over slices of  stale sponge cake;  cover with  Cream Sauce I. or II.   

   Peach Custard. 

Arrange alternate layers of  stale cake  and sections of  canned peaches  in glass dish and pour over  Boiled Custard.    Bananas  may be used instead of peaches; it is then called  Banana Custard. 

   

   Orange Custard. 

Arrange slices of  sweet oranges  in glass dish, pour over them  Boiled Custard;  chill, and cover with  Meringue I.   

   Apple Meringue. 

Use  Meringue I.  and pile lightly on  baked apples,  brown in oven, cool, and serve with  Boiled Custard.    Canned peaches,  drained from their liquor, may be prepared in the same way; it is then called  Peach Meringue. 

   

   Apple Snow. 

   Whites 3 eggs.  
 3/4 cup  apple pulp.  
  Powdered sugar.  
 
  Pare, quarter, and core four  sour apples,  steam until soft, and rub through sieve; there should be three-fourths cup  apple pulp.  Beat on a platter  whites of eggs  until 
 
 

stiff (using  wire whisk ), add gradually  apple  sweetened to taste, and continue beating. Pile lightly on glass dish, chill, and serve with  Boiled Custard.   

   Prune Whip. 

  1/3 lb.  prunes.  
  Whites 5 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Pick over and wash  prunes,  then soak several hours in  cold water  to cover; cook in same  water  until soft; remove stones and rub  prunes  through a strainer, add  sugar,  and cook five minutes; the mixture should be of the consistency of  marmalade.  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff, add  prune  mixture gradually when cold, and  lemon juice.  Pile lightly on buttered  pudding-dish,  bake twenty minutes in slow oven. Serve cold with  Boiled Custard.   

   Raspberry Whip. 

  1 1/4 cups  raspberries.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
  White 1 egg.  
 
  Put ingredients in bowl and beat with  wire whisk  until stiff enough to hold in shape; about thirty minutes will be required for beating. Pile lightly on dish, chill, surround with  lady fingers,  and serve with  Boiled Custard.     Strawberry Whip 

may be prepared in same way.   

   Baked Custard. 

  4 cups  scalded milk.  
 4 to 6  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add  sugar  and  salt,  pour on slowly  scalded milk;  strain in buttered mould, set in pan of  hot water.  Sprinkle with  nutmeg,  and bake in slow oven until firm, which may be readily determined by running a silver knife through custard; if knife comes out clean, custard is done. During baking, care must be taken 
 
 

that  water  surrounding mould does not reach boiling point, or custard will whey. Always bear in mind that  eggs  and  milk  in combination must be cooked at a low temperature.  For  cup custards 

allow four  eggs  to four cups  milk;    for  large moulded custard, 

six  eggs;   if less  eggs  are used custard is liable to crack when turned on a  serving-dish.   

   Caramel Custard. 

  4 cups  scalded milk.  
 5  eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 
  Put  sugar  in  omelet pan,  stir constantly over hot part of range until melted to a syrup of light brown color. Add gradually to  milk,  being careful that  milk  does not bubble up and go over, as is liable on account of high temperature of  sugar.  As soon as  sugar  is melted in  milk,  add mixture gradually to  eggs  slightly beaten; add  salt  and flavoring, then strain in buttered mould. Bake as custard. Chill, and serve with  Caramel Sauce.   

   Caramel Sauce. 

  1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 
   Miss Parloa.   Melt  sugar  as for Caramel Custard, add  water,  simmer ten minutes; cool before serving.  

   Tapioca Cream. 

  1/4 cup  pearl tapioca.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Pick over  tapioca  and soak one hour in  cold water  to cover, drain, add to  milk,  and cook in  double boiler  until  tapioca  is transparent. Add half the  sugar  to  milk  and remainder to  egg yolks  slightly beaten, and  salt.  Combine by pouring hot mixture slowly on egg mixture, 
 
 

return to  double boiler,  and cook until it thickens. Remove from range and add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Chill and flavor.  

   Norwegian Prune Pudding. 

  1/2 lb.  prunes.  
 2 cups  cold water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 inch piece  stick cinnamon.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1/3 cup  corn-starch.  
 
  Pick over and wash  prunes,  then soak one hour in  cold water,  and boil until soft; remove stones, obtain meat from stones and add to  prunes;  then add  sugar,   cinnamon,   boiling water,  and simmer ten minutes. Dilute  corn-starch  with enough  cold water  to pour easily, add to prune mixture, and cook eight minutes in  double boiler.  Remove  cinnamon,  mould, then chill, and serve with  Cream Sauce I. or II.   

   Apples in Bloom. 

Select eight  red apples,  cook in  boiling water  until soft, turning them often. Have  water  half surround  apples.  Remove skins carefully, that the red color may remain, and arrange on  serving-dish.  To the  water  add one cup  sugar,   grated rind one-half lemon,  and  juice one orange;  simmer until reduced to one cup. Cool, and pour over  apples.  Serve with  Cream Sauce I. or II.   

   Neapolitan Baskets. 

Bake  sponge cake  in  gem pans,  cool, and remove centres. Fill with  Cream Sauce II.,  flavoring half the  sauce  with  chocolate.  Melt  chocolate,  dilute with  hot water,  cool, and add  cream sauce  slowly to  chocolate.  Garnish with  candied cherries  and  angelica.   

   Wine Cream. 

Arrange  lady fingers  or slices of  sponge cake  in a dish, pour over  cream  made as follows: Mix one-third cup  sugar,   grated rind and juice one-half lemon,  one-fourth 
 
 

cup  sherry wine,  and  yolks of two eggs;  place over fire and stir vigorously with  wire whisk  until it thickens and is frothy, then pour over beaten  whites of two eggs  and continue  beating   

   Orange Salad. 

Arrange layers of sliced  oranges,  sprinkling each layer with  powdered sugar  and  shredded cocoanut.  Sliced  oranges  when served alone should not stand long after slicing, as they are apt to become bitter.  

   Fruit Salad I. 

Arrange alternate layers of shredded  pineapple,  sliced  bananas,  and sliced  oranges,  sprinkling each layer with  powdered sugar.  Chill before serving.  

   To Shred Pineapple. 

Pare and cut out eyes, pick off small pieces with a silver fork, continuing until all soft part is removed.   To Slice Oranges. 

Remove skin and white covering, slice lengthwise that the tough centre may not be served; seeds should be removed.   

   Fruit Salad II. 

Pare a  pineapple  and cut in one-quarter inch slices, remove hard centres, sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  set aside one hour in a cool place; drain, spread on  serving-dish,  arrange a circle of thin slices of  banana  on each piece, nearly to the edge, pile  strawberries  in centre, pour over syrup drained from  pineapple,  sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and serve with or without  Cream Sauce.   

   Fruit Salad with Wine Dressing. 

Arrange alternate layers of sliced fruit, using  pineapples,   bananas,   oranges,  and  grapes;  pour over all  Wine Dressing,  and let stand one hour in a cold place.  

   Wine Dressing. 

Mix one-half cup  sugar,  one-third cup  sherry wine,  and two tablespoons  Madeira.   

 

   Cream Whips. 

Sweeten  thin cream,  flavor with  vanilla,   brandy,  or  wine,  then whip; half fill  frappé glasses  with any  preserve,  pile on lightly the whip.  

   Lemon Jelly. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 2 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  lemon juice.  
 
  Soak gelatine twenty minutes in  cold water,  dissolve in  boiling water,  strain, and add to  sugar  and  lemon juice.  Turn into mould, and chill.  

   Orange Jelly. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 1/2 cups  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/2 cups  orange juice.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Make same as Lemon Jelly.  

   To Remove Juice from Oranges. 

Cut  fruit  in halves crosswise, remove with spoon pulp and juice from sections, and strain through double  cheese cloth;  or use a glass  lemon squeezer.   

   Coffee Jelly. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 2 cups  boiled coffee.  
 
  Make same as Lemon Jelly. Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Cider Jelly. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 2 cups  cider.  
 
  Make same as Lemon Jelly.  

 

   Wine Jelly I. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 2/3 cups  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  sherry  or  Madeira wine.  
 1/3 cup  orange juice.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Soak gelatine twenty minutes in  cold water,  dissolve in  boiling water;  add  sugar,   wine,   orange juice,  and  lemon juice;  strain, mould, and chill. If a stronger  jelly  is desired, use additional  wine  in place of  orange juice.   

   Wine Jelly II. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 2/3 cups  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  sherry wine.  
 2 tablespoons  brandy.  
  Kirsch.  
 1/3 cup  orange juice.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
  Fruit red.  
 
  Soak gelatine twenty minutes in  cold water,  dissolve in  hot water,  add  sugar,   fruit juices,   sherry,   brandy,  and enough Kirsch to make one cup of strong liquor, then color with fruit red. Strain, mould, and chill.  

   Russian Jelly. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 2/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  Sauterne.  
 1/4 cup  orange juice.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Make same as other  jellies,  cool, and beat until frothy and firm enough to mould.  

   Jelly in Glasses. 

Use recipe for  Wine or Russian Jelly.  Fill  Apollinaris glasses  three-fourths full, reserving one-fourth of the mixture, which, after cooling, is to be beaten until frothy and placed on top of jelly in glasses. This is a most attractive way of serving jelly to one who is ill.  

 

   Jellied Prunes. 

  1/3 lb.  prunes.  
 2 cups  cold water.  
  Boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  lemon juice.  
 
  Pick over, wash, and soak  prunes  for several hours in two cups  cold water,  and cook in same  water  until soft; remove  prunes;  stone, and cut in quarters. To  prune water  add enough  boiling water  to make two cups. Soak gelatine in half-cup  cold water,  dissolve in hot liquid, add  sugar,   lemon juice,  then strain, add  prunes,  mould, and chill. Stir twice while cooling to prevent  prunes  from settling. Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Jellied Walnuts. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1/3 cup  boiling water.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  sherry wine.  
 1/2 cup  orange juice.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Make same as other  jellies  and cover bottom of shallow pan with mixture. When firm, place over it, one inch apart, halves of  English walnuts.  Cover with remaining mixture. Chill, and cut in squares for serving.  

   Apricot and Wine Jelly. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  apricot juice.  
 1 cup  wine.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Garnish individual moulds with halves of  apricots,  fill with mixture made same as for other jellies, and chill. Serve with  Cream Sauce I.   

 

   Snow Pudding I. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  lemon juice.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Soak gelatine in  cold water,  dissolve in  boiling water,  add  sugar  and  lemon juice,  strain, and set aside in cool place; occasionally stir mixture, and when quite thick, beat with  wire spoon  or  whisk  until frothy; add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff, and continue beating until stiff enough to hold its shape. Mould, or pile by spoonfuls on glass dish; serve cold with  Boiled Custard.  A very attractive dish may be prepared by coloring half the mixture with  fruit red.   

   Amber Pudding. 

Make as Snow Pudding I., using  cider  instead of boiling water, and one-fourth cup  boiling water  to dissolve  gelatine,  omitting lemon juice.  

   Snow Pudding II. 

Beat  whites of four eggs  until stiff, add one-half tablespoon  granulated gelatine  dissolved in three tablespoons  boiling water,  beat until thoroughly mixed, add one-fourth cup  powdered sugar,  and flavor with one-half teaspoon  lemon extract.  Pile lightly on dish, serve with  Boiled Custard.   

   Pudding à la Macédoine. 

Make  fruit or wine jelly  mixture. Place a mould in pan of  ice water,  pour in mixture one-half inch deep; when firm, decorate with slices of  banana  from which radiate thin  s of  figs  (seed side down), cover fruit, adding mixture by spoonfuls lest the fruit be disarranged. When firm, add more fruit and mixture; repeat until all is used, each time allowing mixture to stiffen before fruit 
 
 

  Pudding à la Macédoine.  A pudding lined with slices of banana at its base and served on a round platter.  
is added. In preparing this dish various  fruits  may be used:  oranges,   bananas,   dates,   figs,  and  English walnuts.  Serve with  Cream Sauce I.   

   Fruit Chartreuse. 

Make  fruit or wine jelly  mixture. Place a mould in pan of  ice water,  pour in mixture one-half inch deep; when firm, decorate with  candied cherries  and  angelica;  add by spoonfuls more mixture to cover  fruit;  when this is firm, place a smaller mould in the centre on jelly, and fill with  ice water.  Pour gradually remaining jelly mixture between moulds; when firm, invert to empty smaller mould of  ice water;  then pour in some  tepid water;  let stand a few seconds, when small mould may easily be removed. Fill space thus made with  fresh sweetened fruit,  using shredded  pineapple,  sliced  bananas,  and  strawberries.   

   Spanish Cream. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 3 cups  milk.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  sugar  (scant). 
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 3 tablespoons  wine.  
 
  Scald  milk  with gelatine, add  sugar,  pour slowly on  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten. Return to  double boiler  
 
 

and cook until thickened, stirring constantly; remove from range, add  salt,  flavoring, and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Turn into individual moulds, first dipped in  cold water,  and chill; serve with  cream.  More gelatine will be required if large moulds are used.  

   Columbian Pudding. 

Cover the bottom of a fancy mould with  Wine Jelly.  Line the upper part of mould with  figs,  cut in halves cross-wise, which have been soaked in  jelly,  having seed side next to mould. Fill centre with  Spanish Cream;  chill, and turn on a  serving dish.  Garnish with cubes of  Wine Jelly.   

   Macaroon Cream. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4  cold water.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 2/3 cup  pounded macaroons.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Soak gelatine in  cold water.  Make custard of  milk,   yolks of eggs,   sugar,  and  salt;  add soaked gelatine; when dissolved, strain into pan set in  ice water.  Add  macaroons  and flavoring, stirring until it begins to thicken; then add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff, mould, chill, and serve garnished with  macaroons.   

   Cold Cabinet Pudding. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/3 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 1 tablespoon  brandy.  
 5  lady fingers.  
 6  macaroons.  
 
  Soak gelatine in  cold water  and add to custard made of  milk,   eggs,   sugar,  and  salt;  strain, cool slightly, and flavor. Place a mould in pan of  ice water,  decorate with  candied cherries  and  angelica,  cover with mixture, added 
 
 

carefully by spoonfuls; when firm, add layer of lady fingers (first soaked in custard), repeat, care being taken that each layer is firm before another is added. Garnish, and serve with  Cream Sauce I.  and  candied cherries.   

   Mont Blanc. 

Remove shells from three cups  French chestnuts,  cook in small quantity of  boiling water  until soft, when there will be no  water  remaining. Mash, sweeten to taste with  powdered sugar,  and moisten with  hot milk;  cook two minutes. Rub through strainer, cool, flavor with  vanilla,   Kirsch  or  Maraschino.  Pile in form of pyramid, cover with  Cream Sauce I.,  garnish base with  Cream Sauce I.  forced through pastry bag and tube.   French Chef.   

   Crême aux Fruits. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1/4 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1/2 pint  thick cream.  
 1/3 cup  milk.  
 1/3 cup  cooked prunes  cut in pieces. 
 1/3 cup chopped  figs.  
 
  Soak gelatine in  cold water,  dissolve in  scalded milk,  and add  sugar.  Strain in pan set in  ice water,  stir constantly, and when it begins to thicken add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff,  cream  (diluted with  milk  and beaten),  prunes,  and  figs.  Mould and chill.  

   To Whip Cream. 

 Thin and heavy cream  are both used in making and garnishing desserts.   Heavy cream  is bought in half-pint, pint, and quart glass jars, and usually retails at sixty cents per quart;  thin  or  strawberry cream  comes in glass jars or may be bought in bulk, and usually retails for thirty cents per 
 
 

quart.  Heavy cream  is very rich; for which reason, when whipped without being diluted, it is employed as a garnish; even when so used, it is generally diluted with one-fourth to one-third its bulk in  milk;  when used in 
  Whipping of cream.  An illustration of the various implements used in whipping cream.  
combination with other ingredients for making desserts, it is diluted from one-half to two-thirds its bulk in  milk.   Thin cream  is whipped without being diluted.  Cream  should be thoroughly chilled for whipping. Turn  cream  to be whipped in a bowl (care being taken not to select too large a bowl), and set in pan of  crushed ice,  to which  water  is added that  cream  may be quickly chilled; without addition of  water,   cream  will not be so thoroughly chilled.  For whipping  heavy cream  undiluted, or diluted with one-third or less its bulk in  milk,  use  Dover egg-beater;  undiluted  heavy cream  if beaten a moment too long will come to butter.  Heavy cream  diluted, whipped, sweetened, and flavored, is often served with puddings, and called  Cream Sauce.    Thin cream  is whipped by using a  whip churn,  as is  heavy cream  when diluted with one-half to two-thirds its 
 
 

bulk in  milk.  Place  churn  in bowl containing  cream,  hold down cover with left hand, with right hand work dasher with quick downward and slow upward motions; avoid raising dasher too high in cylinder, thus escaping spattering of  cream.  The first whip which appears should be stirred into cream, as air bubbles are too large and will break; second whip should be removed by spoonfuls to a strainer, strainer to be placed in a pan, as some  cream  will drain through. The first which drains through may be turned into bowl to be re-whipped, and continue whipping as long as possible.  There will be some  cream  left in bowl, which does not come above perforations in  whip churn,  and cannot be whipped.  Cream  which remains may be scalded and used to dissolve gelatine when making desserts which require gelatine.  Cream  should treble its bulk in whipping. By following these directions one need have no difficulty, if  cream  is of right consistency; always bearing in mind  heavy cream  calls for  Dover egg-beater,   thin cream  for  whip churn.   

   Charlotte Russe. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1/3 cup  scalded cream.  
 1/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
  Whip from 3 1/2 cups thin cream.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  vanilla.  
 6  lady fingers.  
 
  Soak  gelatine  in  cold water,  dissolve in  scalded cream,  strain into a bowl, and add  sugar  and  vanilla.  Set bowl in pan of  ice water  and stir constantly until it begins to thicken, then fold in whip from  cream,  adding one-third at a time. Should  gelatine  mixture become too thick, melt over  hot water,  and again cool before adding whip. Trim ends and sides of lady fingers, place around inside of a mould, crust side out, one-half inch apart. Turn in mixture, spread evenly, and chill. Serve on glass dish and garnish with cubes of  Wine Jelly.  Charlotte Russe is sometimes made in individual moulds; these are 
 
 

often garnished on top with some of mixture forced through a pastry bag and tube. Individual moulds are frequently lined with thin slices of  sponge cake  cut to fit moulds.  

  Charlotte Russe garnished with cubes of Wine Jelly.  An illustration of a moulded dessert served in a fancy rectangular dish.  
   Orange Trifle. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  boiling sugar.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  orange juice.  
  Grated rind 1 orange.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
  Whip from 3 1/2 cups cream.  
 
  Make same as Charlotte Russe, and mould; or make  orange jelly,  color with  fruit red,  and cover bottom of mould one-half inch deep; chill, and when firm fill with  Orange Trifle mixture.  Cool remaining  jelly  in shallow pan, cut in cubes, and garnish base of mould.  

   Banana Cantaloupe. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
 3/4 cup  scalded cream.  
 2/3 cup  sugar.  
 4  bananas,  mashed pulp. 
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
  Whip from 3 1/2 cups cream.  
 12  lady fingers.  
 
  Soak  gelatine  in  cold water,  beat  whites of eggs  slightly, add  powdered sugar,  and gradually  hot cream,  
 
 

cook over  hot water  until it thickens; add soaked  gelatine  and remaining  sugar,  strain into a pan set in  ice water,  add  bananas  and  lemon juice,  stir until it begins to thicken, then fold in whip from  cream.  Line a  melon mould  with  lady fingers  trimmed to just fit sections of mould, turn in the mixture, spread evenly, and chill.  

   Chocolate Charlotte. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  scalded cream.  
 1 1/2 squares  Baker's chocolate.  
 3 tablespoons  hot water.  
 2/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
  Whip from 3 cups cream.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 6  lady fingers.  
 
  Melt  chocolate,  add half the  sugar,  dilute with  boiling water,  and add to  gelatine  mixture while hot. Proceed same as in recipe for Charlotte Russe.  

   Caramel Charlotte Russe. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  scalded cream.  
 1/3 cup  sugar caramelized.  
 1/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  vanilla.  
  Whip from 3 1/2 cups cream.  
 6  lady fingers.  
 
  Make same as Charlotte Russe, adding caramelized  sugar  to  scalded cream  before putting into  gelatine  mixture.  

   Burnt Almond Charlotte. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 3/4 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  sugar caramelized.  
 3/4 cup blanched and finely chopped  almonds.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
  Whip from 3 1/2 cups cream.  
 6  lady fingers.  
 
  Make same as Caramel Charlotte Russe, adding  nuts  before folding in  cream.   

 

   Ginger Cream. 

  1/4 box  gelatine  or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/4 cup  cold water.  
 1 cup  milk.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 1 tablespoon  wine.  
 1/2 tablespoon brandy. 
 2 tablespoons  ginger syrup.  
 1/4 cup  Canton ginger  cut in pieces. 
  Whip from 2 1/2 cups cream.  
 
  Soak gelatine,and add to custard made of  milk,   eggs,   sugar,  and  salt.  Strain, chill in pan of  ice water,  add flavorings, and when it begins to thicken fold in  whip  from  cream.   

   Orange Charlotte. 

  1/3 box  gelatine  or 
 1 2/3 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/3 cup  cold water.  
 1/3 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 1 cup  orange juice and pulp.  
  Whites 3  egg .  
  Whip from 2 cups >cream.  
 
  Soak  gelatine  in  cold water,  dissolve in  boiling water,  strain, and add  sugar,   lemon juice,   orange juice,  and  pulp.  Chill in pan of  ice water;  when quite thick, beat with  wire spoon  or  whisk  until frothy, then add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff, and fold in  cream.  Line a mould with sections of  oranges,  turn in mixture, smooth evenly, and chill.  

   Strawberry Sponge. 

  1/3 box  gelatine  or 
 1 2/3 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/3 cup  cold water.  
 1/3 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 1 cup  strawberry juice.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
  Whip from 2 cups cream.  
 
  Make same as Orange Charlotte.  

   Orange Baskets. 

Cut two pieces from each  orange,  leaving what remains in shape of basket with handle, remove pulp from baskets 
 
 

and pieces, and keep baskets in  ice water  until ready to fill. From  orange juice  make  orange jelly  with which to fill baskets. Serve garnished with  Cream Sauce.   

   Orange Jelly in Ambush. 

Cut  oranges  in halves lengthwise, remove pulp and  juice.  With  juice  make  Orange Jelly  to fill half the pieces. Fill remaining pieces with  Charlotte Russe mixture.  When both are firm, put together in pairs and tie together with narrow white ribbon.  

   Bavarian Cream (Quick). 

  1/2  lemon, grated rind and juice.  
 1/2 cup  white wine.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  granulated gelatine.  
 1 tablespoon  cold water.  
 
  Mix  lemon,   wine,   sugar,  and  yolks of eggs;  stir vigorously over fire until mixture thickens, add  gelatine  soaked in  water,  then pour over  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Set in pan of  ice water  and beat until thick enough to hold its shape. Turn into a mould lined with  lady fingers,  and chill.  Orange juice  may be used in place of  wine,  and the  cream  served in  orange baskets.   

   Strawberry Bavarian Cream. 

Line a mould with large, fresh  strawberries  cut in halves, fill with  Charlotte Russe mixture.   

   Pineapple Bavarian Cream. 

  1/2 box  gelatine  or 
 2 1/2 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 can grated  pineapple.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
  Whip from 3 cups cream.  
 
  Soak  gelatine  in  cold water.  Heat  pineapple,  add  sugar,   lemon juice,  and soaked gelatine; chill in pan of  ice water,  stirring constantly; when it begins to thicken, fold in  whip from cream,  mould, and chill.  

 

   Royal Diplomatic Pudding. 

Place mould in pan of  ice water  and pour in  Wine Jelly II.  one-half inch deep. When firm, decorate with  candied cherries  and  angelica,  proceed as for Fruit Chartreuse, filling the centre with  Charlotte Russe mixture  or  Fruit Cream.   

   Fruit Cream. 

Peel four  bananas,  mash, and rub through a sieve; add pulp and  juice of two oranges,  one tablespoon  lemon juice,  one tablespoon  sherry wine,  two-thirds cup  powdered sugar,  and one and one-fourth tablespoons  granulated gelatine  dissolved in one-fourth cup  boiling water.  Cool in  ice water,  stirring constantly, and fold in  whip from two cups cream.   

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS. 
 ICES and other frozen dishes comprise the most popular desserts. Hygienically speaking, they cannot be recommended for the final course of a dinner, as cold mixtures reduce the temperature of the stomach, thus retarding digestion until the normal temperature is again reached. But how cooling, refreshing, and nourishing, when properly taken, and of what inestimable value in the sick room!  Frozen dishes include:-- 
   Water Ice,  --fruit juice sweetened, diluted with water, and frozen.  
  Sherbet,  --water ice to which is added a small quantity of dissolved gelatine or beaten whites of eggs.  
  Frappé,  --water ice frozen to consistency of mush; in freezing, equal parts of salt and ice being used to make it granular.  
  Punch,  --water ice to which is added spirit and spice.  
  Sorbet,  --strictly speaking, frozen punch; the name is often given to a water ice where several kinds of fruit are used.  
  Philadelphia Ice Cream,  --thin cream, sweetened, flavored, and frozen.  
  Plain Ice Cream,  --custard foundation, thin cream, and flavoring.  
  Mousse,  --heavy cream, beaten until stiff, sweetened, flavored, placed in a mould, packed in equal parts salt and ice, and allowed to stand three hours; or whip from thin cream may be used folded into mixture containing small quantity of gelatine.  
 
 
 

   How to Freeze Desserts. 

The prejudice of thinking a frozen dessert difficult to prepare has long since been overcome. With  ice cream freezer,  burlap bag, wooden mallet or axe, small saucepan, sufficient  ice  and  coarse rock salt,  the process neither takes much time nor patience.  Snow  may be used instead of ice; if not readily acted on by  salt,  pour in one cup  cold water.  Crush ice finely by placing in bag and giving a few blows with mallet or broad side of axe; if there are any coarse pieces, remove them. Place can containing mixture to be frozen in wooden tub, cover, and adjust top. Turn crank to make sure can fits in socket. Allow three level measures ice to one of  salt,  and repeat until ice and  salt  come to top of can, packing solidly, using handle of mallet to force it down. If only small quantity is to be frozen, the ice and  salt  need come only little higher in the tub than mixture to be frozen. These are found the best proportions of ice and  salt  to insure smooth, fine-grained cream, sherbet, or water ice, while equal parts of  salt  and ice are used for freezing frappé. If a larger proportion of  salt  is used, mixture will freeze in shorter time and be of granular consistency, which is desirable only for frappé.  The mixture increases in bulk during freezing, so the can should never be more than three-fourths filled; by overcrowding can, cream will be made coarse grained. Turn the crank slowly and steadily to expose as large surface of mixture as possible to ice and  salt.  After frozen to a mush, the crank may be turned more rapidly, adding more ice and  salt  if needed; never draw off salt water until mixture is frozen, unless there is possibility of its getting into the can, for salt water is what effects freezing; until ice melts, no change will take place. After freezing is accomplished, draw off water, remove dasher, and with spoon pack solidly. Put cork in opening of cover, then put on cover. Re-pack freezer, using four measures ice to one of  salt.  Place over top newspapers or piece of carpet; when serving time comes, remove can, wipe carefully, 
 
 

and place in vessel of  cool water;  let stand one minute, remove cover, and run a knife around edge of cream, invert can on  serving-dish,  and frozen mixture will slip out. Should there be any difficulty, a cloth wrung out of  hot water,  passed over can, will aid in removing mixture.  

   To Line a Mould. 

Allow mould to stand in  salt  and  ice  until well chilled. Remove cover, put in mixture by spoonfuls, and spread with back of spoon or a  case knife  evenly three-quarters inch thick.  

   To Mould Frozen Mixtures. 

When frozen mixtures are to be bricked or moulded, avoid freezing too hard. Pack mixture solidly in moulds and cover with buttered paper, buttered side up. Have moulds so well filled that mixture is forced down sides of mould when cover is pressed down. Repack in  salt  and  ice,  using four parts ice to one part  salt.  If these directions are carefully followed, one may feel no fear that salt water will enter  cream,  even though moulds be immersed in salt water.  

   Lemon Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 3/4 cup  lemon juice.  
 
  Make a syrup by boiling  water  and  sugar  twenty minutes; add  lemon juice;  cool, strain, and freeze. See directions for freezing, page 366.  

   Orange Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 2 cups  orange juice.  
 1/4 cup  lemon juice.  
  Grated rind and juice of two oranges.  
 
  Make  syrup  as for Lemon Ice; add  fruit juice  and grated  rind;  cool, strain, and freeze.  

 

   Pomegranate Ice. 

Same as Orange Ice, made from  blood oranges.   

   Raspberry Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 2/3 cups  sugar.  
 2 cups  raspberry juice.  
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Make a  syrup  as for Lemon Ice, cool, add  raspberries  mashed, and squeezed through double  cheese cloth,  and  lemon juice;  strain and freeze.  

   Strawberry Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 2 cups  strawberry juice.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice.  

   Currant Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 2 cups  currant juice.  
 
  Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice.  

   Raspberry and Currant Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 1/3 cups  sugar.  
 2/3 cup  raspberry juice.  
 1 1/3 cups  currant juice.  
 
  Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice.  

   Crême de Menthe Ice. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/3 cup  Crême de Menthe cordial.  
  Burnett's Leaf Green.  
 
  Make a  syrup  as for Lemon Ice, add  cordial  and coloring; strain and freeze.  

 

   Canton Sherbet. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 lb.  Canton ginger.  
 1/2 cup  orange juice.  
 1/3 cup  lemon juice.  
 
  Cut  ginger  in small pieces, add  water  and  sugar,  boil fifteen minutes; add  fruit juice,  cool, strain, and freeze. To be used in place of punch at a course dinner. This quantity is enough to serve twelve persons.  

   Milk Sherbet. 

  4 cups  milk.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
  Juice 3 lemons.  
 
  Mix  juice  and  sugar,  stirring constantly while slowly adding  milk;  if added too rapidly mixture will have a curdled appearance, which is unsightly, but will not affect the quality of sherbet; freeze and serve.  

   Pineapple Frappé. 

  2 cups  water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Juice 3 lemons.  
 4 cups  ice water.  
 1 can grated  pineapple  or 
 1  pineapple  shredded. 
 
  Make a syrup by boiling  water  and  sugar  fifteen minutes; add  pineapple  and  lemon juice;  cool, strain, add  ice water,  and freeze to a mush, using equal parts  ice  and  salt.  Serve in  frappé glasses.  If fresh fruit is used, more  sugar  will be required.  

   Sorbet. 

  2 cups  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1 can grated  pineapple  or 
 1  pineapple  shredded. 
 1 1/3 cups  orange juice.  
 1/2 cup  lemon juice.  
 1 quart  Apollinaris.  
 
  Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé.  

 

   Café Frappé. 

   White 1 egg.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  ground coffee.  
 4 cups  boiling water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 
  Beat  white of egg  slightly, add  cold water,  and mix with  coffee;  turn into scalded  coffee-pot,  add  boiling water,  and boil one minute; place on back of range ten minutes; strain, add  sugar,  cool, and freeze as Pineapple Frappé. Serve in  frappé glasses,  with  whipped cream,  sweetened and flavored.  

   Clam Frappé. 

  20  clams.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 
  Wash  clams  thoroughly, changing  water  several times; put in  stewpan  with  cold water,  cover closely, and steam until shells open. Strain the liquor, cool, and freeze to a mush.  

   Frozen Apricots. 

  1 can  apricots.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
  Water.  
 
  Drain  apricots,  and cut in small pieces. To the syrup add enough  water  to make four cups, and cook with  sugar  five minutes; strain, add  apricots,  cool, and freeze.    Peaches  

may be used instead of apricots.   To make a richer dessert, add the  whip from two cups cream  when frozen to a mush, and continue freezing.   

   Pineapple Cream. 

  2 cups  water.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 can grated  pineapple.  
 2 cups  cream.  
 
  Make syrup by boiling  sugar  and  water  fifteen minutes; strain, cool, add  pineapple,  and freeze to a mush. Fold in  whip from cream;  let stand thirty minutes before serving.  

 

   Cardinal Punch. 

  4 cups  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 2/3 cup  orange juice.  
 1/3 cup  lemon juice.  
 1/4 cup  brandy.  
 1/4 cup  Curaçoa.  
 1/4 cup  tea infusion.  
 
  Make syrup as for Lemon Ice, add  fruit juice  and  tea,  freeze to a mush; add strong liquors and continue freezing. Serve in  frappé glasses.   

   Punch Hollandaise. 

  4 cups  water.  
 1 1/3 cups  sugar.  
 1/3 cup  lemon juice.  
  Rind one lemon.  
 1 can grated  pineapple.  
 1/4 cup  brandy.  
 2 tablespoons  gin.  
 
  Cook  sugar,   water,  and  lemon rind  fifteen minutes, add  lemon juice  and  pineapple,  cool, strain, freeze to a mush, add strong liquors, and continue freezing.  

   Victoria Punch. 

  3 1/2 cups  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  lemon juice.  
 1/2 cup  orange juice.  
  Grated rind two oranges.  
 1 cup  angelica wine.  
 1 cup  cider.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  gin.  
 
  Prepare same as Cardinal Punch; strain before freezing, to remove  orange rind.   

   London Sherbet. 

  2 cups  sugar.  
 2 cups  water.  
 1/3 cup seeded and finely cut  raisins.  
 3/4 cup  orange juice.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 1 cup  fruit syrup.  
 1/4 grated  nutmeg.  
 1/4 cup  port wine.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 
  Make syrup by boiling  water  and  sugar  ten minutes; pour over  raisins,  cool, and add  fruit syrup  and  nutmeg;  freeze to a mush, then add  wine  and  whites of eggs  beaten stiff, and continue freezing. Serve in glasses.  Fruit syrup may be used which has been left from canned peaches, pears, or strawberries.   

 

   Roman Punch. 

  4 cups  water.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  lemon juice.  
 1/2 cup  orange juice.  
 1/2 cup  tea infusion.  
 1/2 cup  rum.  
 
  Prepare and freeze same as Cardinal Punch.  

   Vanilla Ice Cream I. (Philadelphia). 

  1 quart  thin cream.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  vanilla.  
 
  Mix ingredients, and freeze.  

   Vanilla Ice Cream II. 

  2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/3 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 quart  thin cream.  
 2 tablespoons  vanilla.  
 
  Mix  flour,   sugar,  and  salt,  add  egg  slightly beaten, and  milk  gradually; cook over  hot water  twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first; should custard have curdled appearance, it will disappear in freezing. When cool, add  cream  and flavoring; strain and freeze.  

   Vanilla Ice Cream Croquettes. 

Shape  Vanilla Ice Cream  in individual moulds, roll in  macaroon dust  made by pounding and sifting dry  macaroons.   

   Chocolate Ice Cream I. 

  1 quart  thin cream.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 1 1/2 squares  Baker's chocolate  or 
 1/4 cup  prepared cocoa.  
 1 tablespoon  vanilla.  
 
  Melt  chocolate  and dilute with  hot water  to pour easily, add to  cream;  then add  sugar,   salt,  and flavoring, and freeze.  

 

   Chocolate Ice Cream II. 

Use recipe for  Vanilla Ice Cream II.  Melt two squares  Baker's chocolate,  and pour hot  custard  slowly on  chocolate;  then cool before adding  cream.   

   Strawberry Ice Cream. 

  3 pints  thin cream.  
 2 boxes  strawberries.  
 1 3/4 cups  sugar.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  arrowroot.  
 
  Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with  sugar,  let stand one hour, mash, and rub through strainer. Scald one and one-half cups  milk;  dilute  arrowroot  with remaining  milk,  add to  hot milk,  and cook ten minutes in  double boiler;  cool, add  cream,  freeze to a mush, add fruit, and finish freezing.  

   Pineapple Ice Cream 

  3 pints  cream.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 can grated  pineapple.  
 
  Add  pineapple  to  cream,  let stand thirty minutes; strain, add  sugar,  and freeze.  

   Coffee Ice Cream. 

  1 quart  cream.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 1/3 cup  Mocha coffee.  
 1 1/4 cups  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
  Yolks 4 eggs.  
 
  Scald  milk  with  coffee,  add one cup  sugar;  mix  egg yolks  slightly beaten with one-fourth cup  sugar,  and  salt;  combine mixtures, cook over  hot water  until thickened, add one cup  cream,  and let stand on back of range twenty-five minutes; cool, add remaining  cream,  and strain through double  cheese cloth;  freeze. Coffee Ice Cream may be served with  Maraschino cherries.   

 

   Caramel Ice Cream. 

  1 quart  cream.  
 2 cups  milk.  
 1 1/3 cups  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  vanilla.  
 
  Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II., using one-half  sugar  in  custard;  remaining half caramelize, and add slowly to hot custard. See Caramelization of Sugar, page 505.  

   Burnt Almond Ice Cream. 

It is made same as Caramel Ice Cream, with the addition of one cup finely chopped blanched  almonds.   

   Brown Bread Ice Cream. 

  3 pints  cream.  
 1 1/4 cups  dried brown bread crumbs.  
 7/8 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Soak  crumbs  in one quart  cream,  let stand fifteen minutes, rub through sieve, add  sugar,   salt,  and remaining  cream;  then freeze.  

   Bisque Ice Cream. 

Make  custard  as for Vanilla Ice Cream II., add one quart  cream,  one tablespoon  vanilla,  and one cup  hickory nut  or  English walnut meat  finely chopped.  

   Macaroon Ice Cream. 

  1 quart  cream.  
 1 cup  macaroons.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  vanilla.  
 
  Dry, pound, and measure  macaroons;  add to  cream,   sugar,  and  vanilla,  then freeze.  

 

   Banana Ice Cream. 

  1 quart  cream.  
 4  bananas.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 
  Remove skins, and rub  bananas  through a sieve; add remaining ingredients; then freeze.  

   Ginger Ice Cream. 

To recipe for  Vanilla Ice Cream II.,  using one-half quantity  vanilla,  add one-half cup  Canton ginger  cut in small pieces, three tablespoons  ginger syrup,  and two tablespoons  wine;  then freeze.  

   Pistachio Ice Cream. 

Prepare as  Vanilla Ice Cream II.,  using for flavoring one tablespoon  vanilla  and one teaspoon  almond extract;  color with  Burnett's Leaf Green.   

   Pistachio Bisque. 

To  Pistachio Ice Cream  add one-half cup each of pounded  macaroons,  chopped  almonds  and  peanuts.  Mould, and serve with or without  Claret Sauce.   

   Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream. 

Two kinds of  ice cream  and an  ice  moulded in a brick.  

   Baked Alaska. 

   Whites 6 eggs.  
 6 tablespoons  powdered sugar.  
 2 quart brick of  ice cream.  
 Thin sheet  sponge cake.  
 
  Make meringue of  eggs  and  sugar  as in  Meringue I.,  cover a board with white paper, lay on sponge cake, turn  ice cream  on cake (which should extend one-half inch beyond  cream ), cover with meringue, and spread smoothly. Place on oven grate and brown quickly in hot oven. 
 
 

The board, paper, cake, and méringue are poor conductors of heat, and prevent the  cream  from melting. Slip from paper on  ice cream platter.   

   Pudding Glacé. 

  2 cups  milk.  
 2/3 cup  raisins.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 quart  thin cream.  
 1/2 cup  almonds.  
 1/2 cup  candied pineapple.  
 1/2 cup  Canton ginger.  
 3 tablespoons  wine.  
 
  Scald  raisins  in  milk  fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of  milk,   egg,   sugar,   flour,  and  salt;  strain, cool, add  pineapple,   ginger  cut in small pieces,  nuts  finely chopped,  wine,  and  cream;  then freeze. The  raisins  should be rinsed and saved for a pudding.  

   Frozen Pudding I. 

  2 1/2 cups  milk.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/8 teaspoonful  salt.  
 2  eggs.  
 1 cup  heavy cream.  
 1/4 cup  rum.  
 1 cup  candied fruit,   cherries,   pineapples,   pears,  and  apricots.  
 
  Cut fruit in pieces, and soak several hours in  brandy  to cover, which prevents fruit freezing; make custard of first four ingredients; strain, cool, add  cream  and  rum,  then freeze. Fill a  brick mould  with alternate layers of the  cream  and  fruit;  pack in  salt  and  ice  and let stand two hours.  

   Frozen Pudding II. 

  1 quart  cream.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  rum.  
 1 cup  candied fruit.  
 8  lady fingers.  
 
  Cut fruit in pieces, and soak several hours in  brandy  to cover. Mix  cream,   sugar,  and  rum,  then freeze. Line a two quart  melon mould  with lady fingers, crust side down; fill with alternate layers of the  cream  and fruit, cover, 
 
 

pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand two hours.  Brandied peaches  cut in pieces, with some of their  syrup  added, greatly improve the pudding.  

  Frozen Pudding.  A dessert moulded in the shape of a melon served in a fancy rectangular dish.  
   Delmonico Ice Cream with Angel Food. 

  2 cups  milk.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 7 eggs.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 1/2 cups  thin cream.  
 1 tablespoon  vanilla.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon.  
 
  Make custard of  milk,   sugar,   eggs,  and  salt;  cool, strain, and flavor; whip  cream,  remove  whip;  there should be two quarts; add to custard, and freeze. Serve plain or with Angel Food.  

   Angel Food. 

   Whites 3 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1 quart  cream whip.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  eggs  until stiff, fold in  sugar,   cream whip,  and flavoring; line a mould with  Delmonico Ice Cream,  fill with the mixture, cover, pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand two hours.  

   Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce. 

Line one-pound baking-powder boxes with  Pistachio Ice Cream;  sprinkle with  sultana raisins  which have 
 
 

been soaked one hour in  brandy;  fill centres with  Vanilla Ice Cream  or  whipped cream,  sweetened, and flavored with  vanilla;  cover with  Pistachio Ice Cream;  pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand one and one-half hours.  

   Claret Sauce. 

  1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  water.  
 1/3 cup  claret.  
 
  Boil  sugar  and  water  eight minutes; cool slightly, and add claret.  

   Café Parfait. 

  1 cup  milk.  
 1/4 cup  Mocha coffee.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 3 cups  thin cream.  
 
  Scald  milk  with  coffee,  and add one-half the  sugar;  without straining, use this mixture for making custard, with  eggs,   salt,  and remaining  sugar;  add one cup  cream  and let stand thirty minutes; cool, strain through double  cheese cloth,  add remaining  cream,  and freeze. Line a mould, fill with  Italian Meringue,  cover, pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand three hours.  

   Italian Meringue. 

  1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  water.  
 1 tablespoon  gelatine  or 
 1/4 teaspoon  granulated gelatine.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 1 cup  thin cream.  
 1/2 tablespoon  vanilla.  
 
  Make syrup by boiling  sugar  and  water;  pour slowly on beaten  whites of eggs,  and continue beating. Place in pan of  ice water,  and beat until cold; dissolve  gelatine  in small quantity  boiling water;  strain into mixture; whip  cream,  fold in  whip,  and flavor.  

   Bombe Glacée. 

Line a mould with  sherbet  or  water ice;  fill with  ice cream  or  thin Charlotte Russe mixture;  cover, pack in 
 
 

 salt  and  ice,  and let stand two hours. The mould may be lined with  ice cream.   Pomegranate Ice  and  Vanilla or Macaroon Ice Cream  make a good combination.  

   Nesselrode Pudding. 

  3 cups  milk.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
  Yolks 5 eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 pint  thin cream.  
 1/4 cup  pineapple syrup.  
 1 1/2 cups  prepared French chestnuts.  
 
  Make custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool; add  cream,   pineapple syrup,  and  chestnuts;  then freeze. To prepare  chestnuts,  shell, cook in  boiling water  until soft, and force through a strainer. Line a two-quart  melon mould  with part of mixture; to remainder add one-half cup  candied fruit  cut in small pieces, one-quarter cup  sultana raisins,  and eight  chestnuts  broken in pieces, first soaked several hours in  Maraschino syrup.  Fill mould, cover, pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand two hours. Serve with  whipped cream,  sweetened and flavored with  Maraschino syrup.   

   Strawberry Mousse. 

  1 quart  thin cream.  
 1 box  strawberries.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 box  gelatine  (scant) or 
 1 1/4 tablespoons  granulated gelatine.  
 2 tablespoons  cold water.  
 3 tablespoons  hot water.  
 
  Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with  sugar,  and let stand one hour; mash, and rub through a fine sieve; add  gelatine  soaked in cold and dissolved in  boiling water.  Set in pan of  ice water  and stir until it begins to thicken; then fold in  whip  from  cream,  put in mould, cover, pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand four hours.    Raspberries  

may be used in place of strawberries.   

   Coffee Mousse. 

Make same as Strawberry Mousse, using one cup  boiled coffee  in place of fruit juice.  

 

   Mousse Marron. 

  1 quart  vanilla ice cream.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  water.  
  Whites two eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  granulated gelatine.  
 1 1/2 cups  prepared French chestnuts.  
 1 pint  cream.  
 1/2 tablespoon  vanilla.  
 
  Cook  sugar  and  water  five minutes, pour on to beaten  whites of eggs;  dissolve  gelatine  in one and one-half tablespoons  boiling water,  and add to first mixture. Set in a pan of  ice water,  and stir until cold; add  chestnuts,  and fold in  whip  from  cream  and  vanilla.  Line a mould with  ice cream,  and fill with mixture; cover, pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand three hours.  

   Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce. 

Line a mould with  Pomegranate Ice;  fill with  Italian Meringue  made of three-fourths cup  sugar,  one-third cup  hot water,   whites two eggs,  and one and one-half teaspoons  granulated gelatine  dissolved in two tablespoons  boiling water.  Beat until cold, and fold in  whip  from two cups  cream;  flavor with one teaspoon  vanilla,  cover, pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand three hours.  

   Iced Madeira Sauce. 

  1/4 cup  orange juice.  
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 1/2 cup  Madeira wine.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 
  Freeze  fruit juice  and  wine;  boil  sugar  and  water,  pour on slowly to beaten  whites of eggs,  set in a pan of  salted ice water,  and stir until cold. Add to frozen mixture.  

   Demi-glacé aux Fraises. 

Line a  brick mould  with  Vanilla Ice Cream,  put in layer of  Lady Fingers,  and fill the centre with  preserved strawberries  or  large fresh fruit  cut in halves; cover with  ice 
 
 

cream,  pack in  salt  and  ice,  and let stand one hour. For  ice cream,  make custard of two and one-half cups  milk,   yolks four eggs,  one cup  sugar,  and one-fourth teaspoon  salt;  strain, cool, add one cup  heavy cream  and one tablespoon  vanilla;  then freeze.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 PASTRY. 
 PASTRY cannot be easily excluded from the menu of the New Englander. Who can dream of a Thanksgiving dinner without a pie! The last decade has done much to remove pies from the  daily  bill of fare, and in their place are found delicate puddings and seasonable fruits.  If pastry is to be served, have it of the best,--light, flaky, and tender.  To pastry belongs, 1st, Puff Paste; 2d, Plain Paste.  Puff paste, which to many seems so difficult of preparation, is rarely attempted by any except professionals. As a matter of fact, one who has never handled a rolling pin is less liable to fail, under the guidance of a good teacher, than an old cook, who finds it difficult to overcome the bad habit of using too much force in rolling. It is necessary to work rapidly and with a light touch. A cold room is of great advantage.  For making pastry, pastry flour and the best shortenings, thoroughly chilled, are essential. Its lightness depends on the amount of air enclosed and expansion of that air in baking. The flakiness depends upon kind and amount of shortening used. Lard makes more tender crust than butter, but lacks flavor which butter gives. Puff paste is usually shortened with butter, though some chefs prefer beef suet. Eggs and ice were formerly used, but are not essentials.  Butter should be washed if pastry is to be of the best, so as to remove salt and buttermilk, thus making it of a waxy consistency, easy to handle.  
 
 

   Rules for Washing Butter. 

Scald and chill an earthen bowl. Heat palms of hands in  hot water,  and chill in  cold water.  By following these directions,  butter  will not adhere to bowl nor hands. Wash  butter  in bowl by squeezing with hands until soft and waxy, placing bowl under a cold-water faucet and allowing  water  to run. A small amount of  butter  may be washed by using a wooden spoon in place of the hands.  

 For rolling paste, use a smooth wooden board, and wooden rolling-pin with handles.  Puff paste should be used for vol-au-vents, patties, rissoles, bouchées, cheese straws, tarts, etc. It may be used for rims and upper crusts of pies, but never for lower crusts. Plain paste may be used where pastry is needed, except for vol-au-vents and patties. 
  Puff paste before and after folding in butter.  An illustration of puff paste in various stages of preparation laid out on a large pastry board. A sifter, a rolling pin, and a pastry cutter are also included in the picture.  
   Puff Paste. 

  1 pound  butter.  
 1 pound  pastry flour.  
  Cold water.  
 
  Wash the  butter,  pat and fold until no  water  flies. Reserve two tablespoons of  butter,  and shape remainder into a circular piece one-half inch thick, and put on floured board. Work two tablespoons of  butter  into  flour  with the tips of fingers of the right hand. Moisten 
 
 

to a dough with  cold water,  turn on slightly floured board, and knead one minute. Cover with towel, and let stand five minutes.  Pat and roll one-fourth inch thick, keeping paste a little wider than long, and corners square. If this cannot be accomplished with rolling-pin, draw into shape with fingers. Place  butter  on centre of lower half of paste. Cover  butter  by folding upper half of paste over it. Press edges firmly to enclose as much air as possible.  Fold right side of paste over enclosed  butter,  the left side under enclosed  butter.  Turn paste half-way round, cover, and let stand five minutes. Pat and roll one-fourth inch thick, having paste longer than wide, lifting often to prevent paste from sticking, and dredging board slightly with  flour  when necessary. Fold from ends towards centre, making three layers. Cover, and let stand five minutes. Repeat twice, turning paste half-way round each time before rolling. After fourth rolling, fold from ends to centre, and double, making four layers. Put in cold place to chill; if outside temperature is not sufficiently cold, fold paste in a towel, put in a  dripping-pan,  and place between  dripping pans  of crushed ice. If paste is to be kept for several days, wrap in a napkin, put in tin pail and cover tightly, then put in cold place; if in  ice box,  do not allow pail to come in direct contact with ice.  

   To Bake Puff Paste. 

Baking of  puff paste  requires as much care and judgment as making. After shaping, chill thoroughly before baking. Puff paste requires hot oven, greatest heat coming from the bottom, that the paste may properly rise. While rising it is often necessary to decrease the heat by lifting covers or opening the check to stove. Turn frequently that it may rise evenly. When it has risen its full height, slip a pan under the sheet on which paste is baking to prevent burning on the bottom. Puff paste should be 
 
 

baked on a tin sheet covered with a double thickness of brown paper, or  dripping-pan  may be used, lined with brown paper. The temperature for baking of patties should be about the same as for raised biscuit; vol-au-vents require less heat, and are covered for first half-hour to prevent scorching on top.  

   Patty Shells. 

Roll  puff paste  one-quarter inch thick, shape with a  patty cutter,  first dipped in  flour;  remove centres from one-half the rounds with smaller cutter. Brush over with  cold water  the larger pieces near the edge, and fit on rings, pressing lightly. Place in towel between pans of  crushed ice,  and chill until paste is stiff; if cold weather, chill out of doors. Place on iron or tin sheet covered with brown paper, and bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. The shells should rise their full height and begin to brown in twelve to fifteen minutes; continue browning, and finish baking in twenty-five minutes. Pieces cut from centre of rings of patties may be baked and used for patty covers, or put together, rolled, and cut for unders. Trimmings from puff paste should be carefully laid on top of each other, patted, and rolled out.  

   Vol-au-vents. 

Roll  puff paste  one-third inch thick, mark an oval on paste with cutter or mould, and cut out with sharp knife, first dipped in  flour.  Brush over near the edge with  cold water,  put on a rim three-fourths inch wide, press lightly, chill, and bake. Vol-au-vents require for baking forty-five minutes to one hour. During the first half-hour they should be covered, watched carefully, and frequently turned. The paste cut from centre of rim should be rolled one-quarter inch thick, shaped same size as before rolling, chilled, baked, and used for cover to the Vol-au-vent.  

 

   Plain Paste. 

  1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/4 cup  lard.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
  Cold water.  
 
  Wash  butter,  pat, and form in circular piece. Add  salt  to  flour,  and work in  lard  with tips of fingers or  case knife.  Moisten to dough with  cold water;   ice water  is not an essential, but is desirable in summer. Toss on board dredged sparingly with  flour,  pat, and roll out; fold in  butter  as for puff paste, pat, and roll out. Fold so as to make three layers, turn half-way round, pat, and roll out; repeat. The pastry may be used at once; if not, fold in  cheese cloth,  put in covered tin, and keep in cold place, but never in direct contact with ice. Plain paste requires a moderate oven. This is superior paste and quickly made.  

   Quick Paste. 

  1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  cottolene  or  cocoanut butter.  
  Cold water.  
 
  Mix  salt  with  flour,  cut in  shortening  with knife. Moisten to dough with  cold water.  Toss on floured board, pat, roll out, and roll up like a jelly roll. Use one-third cup of  shortening  if a richer paste is desired.  

   Paste with Lard. 

  1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/3 cup  lard.  
  Cold water.  
 
  Mix  salt  with  flour.  Reserve one and one-fourth tablespoons  lard,  work in remainder to  flour,  using tips of fingers or a  case knife.  Moisten to a dough with  water.  Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll out. Spread with one tablespoon reserved  lard,  dredge with  flour,  roll up like a jelly roll, pat, and roll out; again roll up. Cut from the end of roll a piece large enough to line a  pie plate.  Pat and roll out, keeping the paste as circular in form as 
 
 

possible. With care and experience there need be no trimmings. Worked-over pastry is never as satisfactory. The remaining one-fourth tablespoon  lard  is used to dot over upper crust of pie just before sending to oven; this gives the pie a flaky appearance.  Ice water  has a similar effect. If  milk  is brushed over the pie it has a glazed appearance. This quantity of paste will make one pie with two crusts and a few puffs, or two pies with one crust where the rim is built up and fluted.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 PIES. 
 PASTE for pies should be one-fourth inch thick and rolled a little larger than the plate to allow for shrinking. In dividing paste for pies, allow more for upper than under crusts. Always perforate upper crusts that steam may escape. Some make a design, others pierce with a large fork.  Flat rims for pies should be cut in  s three-fourths inch wide. Under crusts should be brushed with cold water before putting on rims, and rims slightly fulled, otherwise they will shrink from edge of plate. The  pastry-jagger,  a simple device for cutting paste, makes rims with fluted edges.  Pies requiring two crusts sometimes have a rim between the crusts. This is mostly confined to mince pies, where there is little danger of juice escaping. Sometimes a rim is placed over upper crust. Where two pieces of paste are put together, the under piece should always be brushed with cold water, the upper piece placed over, and the two pressed lightly together; otherwise they will separate during baking.  When juicy fruit is used for filling pies, some of the juices are apt to escape during baking. As a precaution, bind with a   of cotton cloth wrung out of cold water and cut one inch wide and long enough to encircle the plate. Squash, pumpkin, and custard pies are much less care during baking when bound. Where cooked fruits are used for filling, it is desirable to bake crusts separately. This is best accomplished by covering an inverted deep 
 
 

 pie plate  with paste and baking for under crust. Prick with a fork before baking. Slip from plate and fill. For upper crusts, roll a piece of paste a little larger than the  pie plate,  prick, and bake on a tin sheet.  For baking pies, perforated tin plates are used. They may be bought shallow or deep. By the use of such plates the under crust is well cooked. Pastry should be thoroughly baked and well browned. Pies require from thirty-five to forty-five minutes for baking. Never grease a  pie plate;  good pastry greases its own tin. Slip pies, when slightly cooled, to earthen plates. 
   Apple Pie I. 

  4 or 5  sour apples.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  butter.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 Few gratings  lemon rind.  
 
  Line  pie plate  with  paste.  Pare, core, and cut the  apples  into eighths, put row around plate one-half inch from edge, and work towards centre until plate is covered; then pile on remainder. Mix  sugar,   nutmeg,   salt,   lemon juice, and grated rind,  and sprinkle over  apples.  Dot over with  butter.  Wet edges of under crust, cover with upper crust, and press edges together.  Bake forty to forty-five minutes in moderate oven. A very good pie may be made without  butter,   lemon juice  and grated  rind.    Cinnamon  may be substituted for nutmeg.   Evaporated apples  may be used in place of fresh fruit. If used, they should be soaked over night in  cold water.   

   Apple Pie II. 

Use same ingredients as for Apple Pie I. Place in small earthen baking-dish and add  hot water  to prevent  apples  from burning. Cover closely and bake three hours in very slow oven, when  apples  will be a dark red color.  Brown sugar  may be used instead of  white sugar,  a little more being required. Cool, and bake between two  crusts.   

 

   Blackberry Pie. 

Pick over and wash one and one-half cups  berries.  Stew until soft with enough  water  to prevent burning. Add  sugar  to taste and one-eighth teaspoon  salt.  Line plate with  paste,  put on a rim, fill with berries (which have been cooled); arrange six  s pastry across the top, cut same width as rim; put on an upper rim. Bake thirty minutes in moderate oven.  

   Blueberry Pie. 

  2 1/2 cups  berries.  
  Flour.  
 1/2 cup  supar.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Line a deep plate with  Plain Paste,  fill with berries slightly dredged with  flour;  sprinkle with  sugar  and  salt,  cover, and bake forty-five to fifty minutes in a moderate oven. For sweetening, some prefer to use one-third  molasses,  the remaining two-thirds to be  sugar.  Six  green grapes  (from which seeds have been removed) cut in small pieces much improve the flavor, particularly where  huckleberries  are used in place of  blueberries.   

   Cranberry Pie. 

  1 1/2 cups  cranberries.  
 1/2 cup  water.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 
  Put ingredients in saucepan in order given, and cook ten minutes; cool, and bake in one crust, with a rim, and  s across the top.  

   Currant Pie. 

  1 cup  currants.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
 2  egg yolks.  
 2 tablespoons  water.  
 
  Mix  flour  and  sugar,  add  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten and diluted with  water.  Wash  currants,  drain, remove stems, then measure; add to first mixture and bake in one crust; cool, and cover with  Meringue I.  Cook in slow oven until delicately browned.  

 

   Cream Pie. 

Bake three  crusts  on separate  pie plates.  Put together with  Cream Filling  and dust over with  powdered sugar.  If allowed to stand after filling for any length of time, the  pastry  will soften.  

   Custard Pie. 

  2  eggs.  
 3 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 1/2 cups  milk.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add  sugar,   salt,  and  milk.  Line plate with  paste,  and build up a fluted rim. Strain in the mixture and sprinkle with few gratings  nutmeg.  Bake in quick oven at first to set rim, decrease the heat afterwards, as  egg  and  milk  in combination need to be cooked at low temperature.  

   Date Pie. 

  2 cups  milk.  
 1/3 pound  sugar dates.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 
  Cook  dates  with  milk  twenty minutes in top of  double boiler.  Strain and rub through sieve, then add  eggs  and  salt.  Bake same as Custard Pie.  

   Lemon Pie I. 

  1/2 cup chopped  apple.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 beaten  egg.  
 1/4 cup  rolled common crackers.  
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
  Grated rind 1 lemon.  
 1 teaspoon  melted butter.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given and bake with two  crusts.   

   Lemon Pie II. 

  3/4 cup  sugar.  
 3/4 cup  boiling water.  
 3 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
 2  egg yolks.  
 3 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
  Grated rind 1 lemon.  
 1 teaspoon  butter.  
 
  Mix  corn-starch  and  sugar,  add  boiling water,  stirring constantly. Cook two minutes, add  butter,   egg yolks,  
 
 

and  rind and juice of lemon.  Line plate with paste same as for Custard Pie. Turn in mixture which has been cooled, and bake until  pastry  is well browned. Cool slightly and cover with  Meringue I.;  then return to oven and bake meringue.  

   Lemon Pie III. 

  4  eggs.  
 6 tablespoons  sugar.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 1  lemon.  
 1 1/4 cups  milk.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 
  Beat  yolks of eggs  slightly, add  sugar,   salt,   grated rind of lemon,  and  milk.  Line plate with paste as for Custard Pie. Pour in mixture. Bake in moderate oven until set. Remove, cool slightly, and cover with  Meringue III.   

  Lemon Pie IV.  A pie topped with a tall peak of meringue served on a round platter.  
   Lemon Pie IV. 

  3  eggs.  
 2/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  lemon juice.  
  Grated rind 1/2 lemon.  
 2 tablespoons  water.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add  sugar,   lemon juice,  grated  rind,  and  water.  Bake in one  crust.  Cool slightly, cover with  Meringue II.,  then return to oven and bake meringue.  

  
 
 

 Mince Pies. 
 Mince pies should be always baked with two crusts. For Thanksgiving and Christmas pies, Puff Paste is often used for rims and upper crusts. 
   Mince Pie Meat. 

  4 lbs.  lean beef.  
 2 lbs.  beef suet.  
  Baldwin apples.  
 3  quinces.  
 3 lbs.  sugar.  
 2 cups  molasses.  
 2 quarts  cider.  
 4 lbs.  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 3 lbs.  currants.  
 1/2 lb. finely cut  citron.  
 1 quart  cooking brandy.  
 1 tablespoon  cinnamon  and  mace.  
 1 tablespoon powdered  clove.  
 2 grated  nutmegs.  
 1 teaspoon  pepper.  
  Salt  to taste. 
 
  Cover meat and  suet  with  boiling water  and cook until tender, cool in  water  in which they were cooked; the  suet  will rise to top, forming a cake of fat, which may be easily removed. Finely chop meat, and add it to twice the amount of finely chopped  apples.  The  apples  should be quartered, cored, and pared, previous to chopping, or skins may be left on, which is not an objection if  apples  are finely chopped. Add  quinces  finely chopped,  sugar,   molasses,   cider,   raisins,   currants,  and  citron;  also  suet,  and  stock in which meat and suet were cooked,  reduced to one and one-half cups. Heat gradually, stir occasionally, and cook slowly two hours; then add  brandy  and  spices.   

   English Mince Meat. 

  5 lbs.  raisins  seeded. 
 5 lbs.  suet,                 } 
 5 lbs.  apples,               } finely chopped. 
 4 lbs.  citron,               } 
 1 1/2 lbs. blanched  almonds, } 
 5 lbs.  currants.  
 5 lbs.  light brown sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 2 1/2 cups  brandy.  
 
  Cook  raisins,   suet,   apples,   citron,   currants,  and  sugar  slowly for one and one-half hours; then add  almonds,   spices,  and brandy.  

 

   Mince Meat (without Liquor). 

Mix together one cup chopped  apple,  one-half cup  raisins  seeded and chopped, one-half cup  currants,  one-fourth cup  butter,  one tablespoon  molasses,  one tablespoon  boiled cider,  one cup  sugar,  one teaspoon  cinnamon,  one-half teaspoon  cloves,  one-half  nutmeg  grated, one salt-spoon of  mace,  and one teaspoon  salt.  Add enough  stock in which meat was cooked  to moisten; heat gradually to boiling point and simmer one hour; then add one cup chopped  meat  and two tablespoons  Barberry Jelly.  Cook fifteen minutes.  

   Mock Mince Pie. 

  4 common  crackers  rolled. 
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1 cup  molasses.  
 1/3 cup  lemon juice  or  vinegar.  
 1 cup  raisins  seeded and chopped. 
 1/2 cup  butter.  
 2  eggs  well beaten. 
  Spices.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given, adding  spices  to taste. Bake between crusts. This quantity will make two pies.  

 
   Peach Pie. 

Remove skins from  peaches.  This may be done easily after allowing  peaches  to stand in  boiling water  one minute. Cut in eighths, cook until soft with enough  water  to prevent burning; sweeten to taste. Cool, and fill  crust  previously baked. Cover with  whipped cream,  sweetened and flavored.  

   Prune Pie. 

  1/2 lb.  prunes.  
 1/2 cup  sugar  (scant). 
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 
  Wash  prunes  and soak in enough  cold water  to cover. Cook in same  water  until soft. Remove stones, cut  prunes  
 
 

in quarters, and mix with  sugar  and  lemon juice.  Reduce liquor to one and one-half tablespoons. Line plate with  paste,  cover with  prunes,  pour over liquor, dot over with  butter,  and dredge with  flour.  Bake with an upper crust.  

   Rhubarb Pie. 

  1 1/2 cups  rhubarb.  
 7/8 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 
  Skin and cut stalks of  rhubarb  in half-inch pieces before measuring. Mix  sugar,   flour,  and  egg;  add to  rhubarb  and bake between crusts. Many prefer to scald  rhubarb  before using; if so prepared, losing some of its acidity, less  sugar  is required.  

   Squash Pie. 

  1 1/4 cups  steamed and strained squash.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cinnamon,   ginger,   nutmeg,  or 
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 1  egg.  
 7/8 cup  milk.  
 
  Mix  sugar,   salt,  and spice or extract, add  squash,   egg  slightly beaten, and  milk  gradually. Bake in one crust, following directions for Custard Pie.  If a richer pie is desired, use one cup  squash,  one-half cup each of  milk  and  cream,  and an additional  egg yolk.    

   Pumpkin Pie. 

Pumpkin Pie is made same as Squash Pie, using  pumpkin  in place of squash.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 PASTRY DESSERTS. 
   Banbury Tarts. 

  1 cup  raisins.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1  cracker.  
  Juice and grated rind 1 lemon.  
 
  Stone and chop  raisins,  add  sugar,   egg  slightly beaten,  cracker  finely rolled, and  lemon juice  and  rind.  Roll  pastry  one-eighth inch thick, and cut pieces three and one-half inches long by three inches wide. Put two teaspoons of mixture on each piece. Moisten edge with  cold water  half-way round, fold over, press edges together with three-tined fork, first dipped in  flour.  Bake twenty minutes in slow oven.  

   Cheese Cakes. 

  1 cup  sweet milk.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 4 eggs.  
  Juice and grated rind 1 lemon.  
 1/4 cup  almonds  blanched and chopped. 
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Scald  sweet and sour milk,  strain through  cheese cloth.  To curd add  sugar,   yolks of eggs  slightly beaten,  lemon,  and  salt.  Line  patty pans  with  paste,  fill with mixture, and sprinkle with chopped  almonds.  Bake until mixture is firm to the touch.  

   Cheese Straws. 

Roll  puff or plain paste  one-fourth inch thick, sprinkle one-half with  grated cheese  to which has been added few grains of  salt  and  cayenne.  Fold, press edges firmly 
 
 

together, fold again, pat and roll out one-fourth inch thick. Sprinkle with  cheese  and proceed as before; repeat twice. Cut in  s five inches long and one-fourth inch wide. Bake eight minutes in hot oven.  Parmesan cheese  or equal parts of  Parmesan and Edam cheese  may be used. Cheese straws are piled log cabin fashion and served with cheese or salad course.  

   Condés. 

   Whites 2 eggs.  
 3/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
 2 oz.  almonds,  blanched and finely chopped. 
 
  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff, add  sugar  gradually, then  almonds.  Roll paste and cut in  s three and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide. Spread with mixture; avoid having it come close to edge. Dust with  powdered sugar  and bake fifteen minutes in moderate oven.  

   Cream Horns. 

Roll  puff paste  in a long rectangular piece, one-eighth inch thick. Cut in  s three-fourths inch wide. Roll paste over wooden forms bought for the purpose, having edges overlap. Bake in hot oven until well puffed and slightly browned. Brush over with  white of egg  slightly beaten, diluted with one teaspoon  water,  then sprinkle with  sugar.  Return to oven and finish cooking, and remove from forms. When cold, fill with  Cream Filling  or  whipped cream sweetened and flavored.   

   Florentine Meringue. 

Roll  puff or plain paste  one-eighth inch thick; cut a piece ten inches long by seven inches wide; place on a sheet, wet edges, and put on a half-inch rim. Prick with fork six times, and bake in hot oven. Cool and spread with  jam,  cover with  Meringue II.,  and  almonds  blanched and shredded, sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and bake.  

 

   Napoleons. 

Bake three sheets of  pastry,  pricking before baking. Put between the sheets  Cream Filling;  spread top with  Confectioners' Frosting,  crease in pieces about two and one-half by four inches, and cut with sharp knife.  

   Orange Sticks. 

Cut  puff or plain paste  rolled one-eighth inch thick in  s five inches long by one inch wide, and bake in hot oven. Put together in pairs, with  Orange Filling  between.  

   Lemon Sticks. 

Lemon Sticks may be made in same manner as Orange Sticks, using  Lemon Filling.   

   Palm Leaves. 

Roll  remnants of puff paste  one-eighth inch thick; sprinkle one-half surface with  powdered sugar,  fold, press edges together, pat and roll out, using  sugar  for dredging board; repeat three times. After the last rolling fold four times. The pastry should be in long   one and one-half inches wide. From the end, cut pieces one-inch wide; place on baking-sheet, broad side down, one-inch apart, and separate layers of pastry at one end to suggest a leaf. Bake eight minutes in hot oven; these will spread while baking.  

   Raspberry Puffs. 

Roll  plain paste  one-eighth inch thick, and cut in pieces four by three and one-half inches. Put one-half tablespoon  raspberry jam  on centre of lower half of each piece, wet edges half-way around, fold, press edges firmly together, prick tops, place on sheet, and bake twenty minutes in hot oven.  Mince meat  or  apple sauce  may be used for filling.  

 

   Tarts. 

Roll  puff paste  one-eighth inch thick. Shape with a  fluted round cutter,  first dipped in  flour;  with a smaller cutter remove centres from half the pieces, leaving rings one-half inch wide. Brush with  cold water  the larger pieces near the edge; fit on rings, pressing lightly. Chill thoroughly, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. By brushing tops of rings with beaten  yolk of egg  diluted with one teaspoonful  water,  they will have a glazed appearance. Cool, and fill with  jam  or  jelly.   

   Polish Tartlets. 

Roll  puff or plain paste  one-eighth inch thick, and cut in two and one-half inch squares; wet the corners, fold toward the centre, and press lightly; bake on a sheet; when cool, press down the centres and fill, using two-thirds  quince marmalade  and one-third  currant jelly.   

 
 MERINGUES. 
 For Pies, Puddings, and Desserts. 
 Eggs for meringues should be thoroughly chilled, and beaten with silver fork,  wire spoon  or  whisk.  Where several eggs are needed, much time is saved by using a  whisk.  Meringues on pies, puddings, or desserts, may be spread evenly, spread and piled in the centre, put on lightly by spoonfuls, or spread evenly with part of the mixture, the remainder being forced through a pastry bag and tube.  Meringues I. and III. should be baked fifteen minutes in slow oven. Meringue II. should be cooked eight minutes in moderate oven; if removed from oven before cooked the eggs will liquefy and meringue settle; if cooked too long, meringue is tough.  
 
 

   Meringue I. 

   Whites 2 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice  or 
 1/4 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  whites  until stiff, add  sugar  gradually and continue beating, then add flavoring.  

   Meringue II. 

   Whites 3 eggs.  
 7 1/2 tablespoons  powdered sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon extract  or 
 1/3 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  whites  until stiff, add four tablespoons  sugar  gradually, and beat vigorously; fold in remaining  sugar,  and add flavoring.  

   Meringue III. 

   Whites 4 eggs.  
 7/8 cup  powdered sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Put  whites of eggs  and  sugar  in bowl, beat mixture until stiff enough to hold its shape, add  lemon juice  drop by drop, continuing the beating. It will take thirty minutes to beat mixture sufficiently stiff to hold its shape, but when baked it makes a most delicious meringue.  

   Meringues Glacées, or Kisses. 

   Whites 4 eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 1 1/4 cups  powdered sugar  or 
 1 cup  fine granulated.  
 
  Beat  whites  until stiff, add gradually two-thirds of  sugar,  and continue beating until mixture will hold its shape; fold in remaining  sugar,  and add flavoring. Shape with a spoon or pastry bag and tube on wet board covered with letter paper. Bake thirty minutes in very slow oven, remove from paper and put together in pairs, or if intending to fill with  whipped cream  or  ice cream  remove soft part with spoon and place meringues in oven to dry.  

 

   Nut Meringues. 

To  Meringue Glacée mixture  add chopped  nut meat;   almonds,   English walnuts,  or  hickory nuts  are preferred. Shape by dropping mixture from tip of spoon in small piles one-half inch apart, or by using pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with  nut meat  and bake.  

   Meringues (Mushrooms). 

Shape  Meringue Glacée mixture  in rounds the size of mushroom caps, using pastry bag and tube; sprinkle with grated  chocolate.  Shape stems like mushroom stems. Bake, remove from paper, and place caps on stems.  

   Meringues Panachées. 

Fill  Meringues Glacées  with  ice cream,  or  ice cream  and  water ice.  Garnish with  whipped cream  forced through pastry bag and tube, and  candied cherries.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXX. 
 GINGERBREADS, COOKIES,AND WAFERS. 
   Hot Water Gingerbread. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 2 1/4 cups  floor.  
 1 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 3 tablespoons  melted butter.  
 
  Add  water  to  molasses.  Mix and sift dry ingredients, combine mixtures, add  butter,  and beat vigorously. Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven.  Chicken fat tried out and clarified  furnishes an excellent shortening, and may be used in place of  butter.   

   Sour Milk Gingerbread. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 2 1/3 cups  flour.  
 1 3/4 teaspoons  soda.  
 2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  melted butter.  
 
  Add  milk  to  molasses.  Mix and sift dry ingredients, combine mixtures, add  butter,  and beat vigorously. Pour into a buttered shallow pan, and bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Soft Molasses Gingerbread. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 3/4 teaspoons  soda.  
 1/2 cup  sour milk.  
 1  egg.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Put  butter  and  molasses  in saucepan and cook until boiling point is reached. Remove from fire, add  soda,  
 
 

and beat vigorously. Then add  milk,   egg  well beaten, and remaining ingredients mixed and sifted. Bake fifteen minutes in buttered small tin pans, having pans two-thirds filled with mixture.  

   Cambridge Gingerbread. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 2/3 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  molasses.  
 1  egg.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  soda.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1 teaspoon  ginger.  
 1/4 teaspoon  clove.  
 
  Melt  butter  in  water,  add  molasses,   egg  well beaten, and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Bake in a buttered shallow pan.  

   Soft Sugar Gingerbread. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 2/3 cup  thin cream.  
 
  Beat  eggs  until light, and add  sugar  gradually. Mix and sift dry ingredients, and add alternately with  cream  to first mixture. Turn into a buttered cake pan, and bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Gossamer Gingerbread. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 7/8 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  yellow ginger.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, then  egg  well beaten. Add  milk,  and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Spread in a buttered  dripping-pan  as thinly as possible, using the back of mixing-spoon. Bake fifteen minutes. Sprinkle with  sugar,  and cut in small squares or diamonds before removing from pan.  

 

   Fairy Gingerbread. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup light  brown sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 7/8 cups  bread flour.  
 2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  milk  very slowly. Mix and sift  flour  and  ginger,  and combine mixtures. Spread very thinly with a broad, long-bladed knife on a buttered, inverted  dripping pan.  Bake in a moderate oven. Cut in squares before removing from pan. Watch carefully and turn pan frequently during baking, that all may be evenly cooked. If mixture around edge of pan is cooked before that in the centre, pan should be removed from oven, cooked part cut off, and remainder returned to oven to finish cooking.  

   Hard Sugar Gingerbread. 

  3/4 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 5 cups  flour.  
 3/4 tablespoon  baking powder.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 3/4 tablespoon  ginger.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  milk,  and dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Put some of mixture on an inverted  dripping-pan  and roll as thinly as possible to cover pan. Mark dough with a coarse  grater.  Sprinkle with  sugar  and bake in a moderate oven. Before removing from pan, cut in  s four and one-half inches long by one and one-half inches wide.  

   Molasses Drop Cakes. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  melted butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2 teaspoons  soda.  
 1 cup  hot water.  
 1  egg.  
 2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 4 cups  flour.  
 
  Mix  molasses,   butter,  and  sugar.  Add  soda  and beat thoroughly, then add  water,   egg  well beaten, and  flour  
 
 

mixed and sifted with  ginger  and  salt.  Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered sheet. Bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a hot oven.  

   Ginger Snaps. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  shortening.  
 3 1/4 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 tablespoon  ginger.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  salt.  
 
  Heat  molasses  to boiling point and pour over  shortening.  Add dry ingredients mixed and sifted. Chill thoroughly. Toss one-fourth of mixture on a floured board and roll as thinly as possible; shape with a small  round cutter,  first dipped in  flour.  Place near together on a buttered sheet and bake in a moderate oven. Gather up the trimmings and roll with another portion of dough. During rolling, the bowl containing mixture should be kept in a cool place, or it will be necessary to add more  flour  to dough, which makes cookies hard rather than crisp and short.  

   Molasses Cookies. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1/2 cup  shortening,   butter  and  lard  mixed. 
 1 tablespoon  ginger.  
 1 tablespoon  soda.  
 2 tablespoons  warm milk.  
 2 cups  bread flour.  
 
  Heat  molasses  to boiling point, add  shortening,   ginger,   soda  dissolved in  warm milk,  and  flour.  Proceed as for Ginger Snaps.  

   Soft Molasses Cookies. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 1 3/4 teaspoons  soda.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 1/2 cup  shortening  melted. 
 2 teaspoons  ginger.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
  Flour.  
 
  Add  soda  to  molasses  and beat thoroughly; add  milk,   shortening,   ginger,   salt,  and  flour.  Enough  flour  must be used to make mixture of right consistency to drop easily from spoon. Let stand several hours in a cold place to thoroughly chill. Toss one-half mixture at a time on 
 
 

slightly floured board and roll lightly to one-fourth inch thickness. Shape with a  round cutter,  first dipped in  flour.  Bake on a buttered sheet.  

   Spice Cookies. 

  1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  lard.  
 1 tablespoon  milk.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 teaspoon  nutmeg.  
 
  Heat  molasses  to boiling point. Add  sugar,   shortening,  and  milk.  Mix and sift dry ingredients, and add to first mixture. Chill, and proceed as with Ginger Snaps.  

   Scotch Wafers. 

  1 cup  fine oatmeal.  
 1 cup  Quaker Rolled Oats  
 2 cups  flour.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  soda.  
 1/4 cup  butter  or  lard.  
 1/2 cup  hot water.  
 
  Mix first six ingredients. Melt  shortening  in  water  and add to first mixture. Toss on a floured board, pat and roll as thinly as possible. Shape with a cutter, or with a sharp knife cut in  s. Bake on a buttered sheet in a slow oven. These are well adapted for children's luncheons, and are much enjoyed by the convalescent, taken with a glass of  milk.   

   Oatmeal Cookies. 

  1  egg.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  thin cream.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1/2 cup  fine oatmeal.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Beat  egg  until light, add  sugar,   cream,  and  milk;  then add  oatmeal,   flour,   baking powder,  and  salt,  mixed and sifted. Toss on a floured board, roll, cut in shape, and bake in a moderate oven.  

 

   Vanilla Wafers. 

  1/3 cup  butter  and  lard  in equal proportions. 
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  vanilla.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar,   egg  well beaten,  milk,  and  vanilla.  Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Proceed as with Ginger Snaps.  

   Cream Cookies. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  thin cream.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  yellow ginger.  
  Flour  to roll. 
 
  Mix and bake same as Vanilla Wafers.  

   Imperial Cookies. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  milk.  
 3 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 1/2 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 
  Mix and bake same as Vanilla Wafers.  

   Hermits. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 2/3 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/3 cup  raisins  stoned and cut in small pieces. 
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/4 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/4 teaspoon  nutmeg.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, then  raisins,   egg  well beaten, and  milk.  Mix and sift dry ingredients and add to first mixture. Roll mixture a little thicker than for Vanilla Wafers.  

 

   Boston Cookies. 

  1 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 3  eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  hot water.  
 3 1/4 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1 cup chopped  nut meat, hickory or English walnut.  
 1/2 cup  currants.  
 1/2 cup  raisins  seeded and chopped. 
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  eggs  well beaten. Add  soda  dissolved in  water,  one-half  flour  mixed and sifted with  salt  and  cinnamon;  then add  nut meat,  fruit, and remaining  flour.  Drop by spoonfuls one inch apart on a buttered sheet, and bake in a moderate oven.  

   Cocoanut Cream Cookies. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  thick cream.  
 1/2 cup shredded  cocoanut.  
 3 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Beat  eggs  until light, add  sugar  gradually,  cocoanut,   cream,  and  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder.  Chill, toss on a floured board, pat and roll one-half inch thick. Sprinkle with  cocoanut,  roll one-fourth inch thick, and shape with a small  round cutter,  first dipped in  flour.  Bake on a buttered sheet.  

   Peanut Cookies. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/4 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 teaspoon  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 cup  flour.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 1/2 cup finely chopped  peanuts.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar,  and  egg  well beaten. Mix and sift  baking powder,   salt,  and  flour;  add to first mixture; then add  milk,   peanuts,  and  lemon juice.  Drop from a teaspoon on an unbuttered sheet one-inch apart, 
 
 

and place one-half  peanut  on top of each. Bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a slow oven. This recipe will make twenty-four cookies.  

   Seed Cakes. 

Follow recipe for Cocoanut Cream Cookies, using one and one-half tablespoons  caraway seeds  in place of cocoanut.  

   Chocolate Cookies. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 2 oz.  Baker's chocolate.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour  (scant). 
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  egg  well beaten,  salt,  and  chocolate  melted. Beat well, and add  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder  alternately with  milk.  Chill, roll very thin, then shape with a small cutter, first dipped in  flour,  and bake in a hot oven.  

   Sand Tarts. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  White 1 egg.  
 Blanched  almonds.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  egg  well beaten; then add  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder.  Chill, toss one-half mixture on a floured board, and roll one-eighth inch thick. Shape with a  doughnut cutter.  Brush over with  white of egg,  and sprinkle with  sugar  mixed with  cinnamon.  Split  almonds,  and arrange three halves on each at equal distances. Place on a buttered sheet, and bake eight minutes in a slow oven.  

 

  Rolled Wafers tied in bundles of three with baby ribbon.  An illustration of rolled wafers served on a plate covered with a doily.  
   Rolled Wafers. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 7/8 cup  bread flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  milk  drop by drop; then add  flour  and flavoring. Spread very thinly with a broad, long-bladed knife on a buttered inverted  dripping pan.  Crease in three-inch squares, and bake in a slow oven until delicately browned. Place pan on back of range, cut squares apart with a sharp knife, and roll while warm in tubular or cornucopia shape. If squares become too brittle to roll, place in oven to soften. If rolled tubular shape, tie in bunches with narrow ribbon. These are very attractive, and may be served with  sherbet,   ice cream,  or  chocolate.  If rolled cornucopia shape, they may be filled with  whipped cream  just before sending to table. Colored wafers may be made from this mixture by adding  leaf green  or  fruit red.  If colored green, flavor with one-fourth teaspoon  almond  and three-fourths teaspoon  vanilla.  If colored pink, flavor with  rose.  Colored wafers must be baked in a very slow oven to prevent browning.  

 

  Almond Wafers tied together with ribbon.  A pile of almond wafers tied together with a ribbon and served on a decorative plate.  
   Almond Wafers. 

Before baking  Rolled Wafers,  sprinkle with  almonds  blanched and chopped.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 CAKE. 
 THE mixing and baking of cake requires more care and judgment than any other branch of cookery; notwithstanding, it seems the one most frequently attempted by the inexperienced.  Two kinds of cake mixtures are considered:--  I. Without butter. Example: Sponge Cakes.  II. With butter. Examples: Cup and Pound Cakes.  In cake making (1) the best ingredients are essential; (2) great care must be taken in measuring and combining ingredients; (3) pans must be properly prepared; (4) oven heat must be regulated, and cake watched during baking.  Best tub butter, fine granulated sugar, fresh eggs, and pastry flour are essentials for good cake. Coarse granulated sugar, bought by so many, if used in cake making, gives a coarse texture and hard crust. Pastry flour contains more starch and less gluten than bread flour, therefore makes a lighter, more tender cake. If bread flour must be used, allow two tablespoons less for each cup than the recipe calls for. Flours differ greatly in thickening properties; for this reason it is always well when using from a new bag to try a small cake, as the amount of flour given may not make the perfect loaf. In winter, cake may be made of less flour than in summer.  Before attempting to mix cake, study How to Measure (p.27) and How to Combine Ingredients. (p.29).  Look at the fire, and replenish by sprinkling on a small quantity of coal if there is not sufficient heat to effect the baking.  
 
 

   To Mix Sponge Cake. 

Separate  yolks  from  whites of eggs.  Beat  yolks  until thick and lemon colored, using an  egg beater;  add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating; then add  flavoring.  Beat  whites  until stiff and dry,--when they will fly from the beater,--and add to the first mixture. Mix and sift  flour  with  salt,  and cut and fold in at the last. If mixture is beaten after the addition of  flour,  much of the work already done of enclosing a large amount of air will be undone by breaking air bubbles. These rules apply to a mixture where  baking powder  is not employed.  

   To Mix Butter Cakes. 

An earthen bowl should always be used for mixing cake, and a  wooden cake-spoon  with slits lightens the labor. Measure dry ingredients, and mix and sift  baking powder  and  spices,  if used, with  flour.  Count out number of  eggs  required, breaking each separately that there may be no loss should a stale  egg  chance to be found in the number, separating  yolks  from  whites  if rule so specifies. Measure  butter,  then liquid. Having everything in readiness, the mixing may be quickly accomplished. If  butter  is very hard, by allowing it to stand a short time in a warm room it is measured and creamed much easier. If time cannot be allowed for this to be done, warm bowl by pouring in some  hot water,  letting stand one minute, then emptying and wiping dry. Avoid overheating bowl, as  butter  will become oily rather than creamy. Put  butter  in bowl, and  cream  by working with a wooden spoon until soft and of a creamy consistency; then add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating. Add  yolks of eggs  or  whole eggs  beaten until light, liquid, and  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder;  or liquid and  flour  may be added alternately. When  yolks  and  whites of eggs  are beaten separately,  whites  are usually added at the last, as is the case when  whites of eggs  alone are used. A cake can be made fine grained only by long beating, although light and delicate with a small amount of beating. Never stir cake after the final beating, remembering that beating 
 
 

motion should always be the last used.  Fruit,  when added to cake, is usually floured to prevent its settling to the bottom. This is not necessary if it is added directly after the  sugar,  which is desirable in all dark cakes. If a light fruit cake is made, fruit added in this way discolors the loaf.  Citron  is first cut in thin slices, then in  s, floured, and put in between layers of cake mixtures.  Raisins  are seeded and cut, rather than chopped.   To seed raisins, 

wet tips of fingers in a cup of  warm water.  Then break skins with fingers, or cut with a  vegetable knife;  remove seeds, and put in cup of  water.  This is better than covering  raisins  with  warm water;  if this be done,  water  clings to fruit, and when dredged with flour a pasty mass is formed on the outside.  Washed  currants,  put up in packages, are quite free from stems and foreign substances, and need only picking over and rolling in  flour.   Currants  bought in bulk need thorough cleaning. First roll in  flour,  which helps to start dirt; wash in  cold water,  drain, and spread to dry; then roll again in  flour  before using.  

   To Butter and Fill Pans. 

Grease pans with  melted fat,  applying the same with a  butter brush.  If  butter  is used, put in a small saucepan and place on back of range; when melted,  salt  will settle to the bottom;  butter  is then called  clarified.  Just before putting in mixture, dredge pans thoroughly with  flour,  invert, and shake pan to remove all superflous  flour,  leaving only a thin coating which adheres to  butter.  This gives to cake a smooth under surface, which is especially desirable if cake is to be frosted. Pans may be lined with paper. If this is done, paper should just cover bottom of pan and project over sides. Then ends of pan and paper are buttered.  In filling pans, have the mixture come well to the corners and sides of pans, leaving a slight depression in the centre, and when baked the cake will be perfectly flat on top. Cake pans should be filled nearly two-thirds full if cake is expected to rise to top of pan.  

 

   To Bake Cake. 

The baking of cake is more critical than the mixing. Many a well-mixed cake has been spoiled in the baking. No oven thermometer has yet proved practical, and although many teachers of cookery have given oven tests, experience alone has proved the most reliable teacher. In baking cake, divide the time required into quarters. During the first quarter the mixture should begin to rise; second quarter, continue rising and begin to brown; third quarter, continue browning; fourth quarter, finish baking and shrink from pan. If oven is too hot, open check and raise back covers, or leave oven door ajar. It is sometimes necessary to cover  cake  with  brown paper;  there is, however, danger of cake adhering to paper. Cake should be often looked at during baking, and providing oven door is opened and closed carefully, there is no danger of this causing cake to fall. Cake should not be moved in oven until it has risen its full height; after this time it is usually desirable to move it that it may be evenly browned. Cake when done shrinks from the pan, and in most cases this is a sufficient test; however, in  pound cakes  this rule does not apply. Pound and  rich fruit cakes  are tested by pressing surface with tip of finger. If cake feels firm to touch and follows finger back into place, it is safe to remove it from the oven. When baking cake arrange to have nothing else in the oven, and place loaf or loaves as near the centre of oven as possible. If placed close to fire box, one side of loaf is apt to become burned before sufficiently risen to turn. If cake is put in too slow an oven, it often rises over sides of pan and is of very coarse texture; if put in too hot an oven, it browns on top before sufficiently risen, and in its attempt to rise breaks through the crust, thus making an unsightly loaf. Cake will also crack on top if too much  flour  has been used. The oven should be kept at as nearly uniform temperature as possible. Small and layer cakes require a hotter oven than loaf cakes.  

 

   To Remove Cake from Pans. 

Remove cake from pans as soon as it comes from the oven, by inverting pan on a  wire cake cooler,  or on a board covered with a piece of old linen. If cake is inclined to stick, do not hurry it from pan, but loosen with knife around edges, and rest pan on its four sides successively, thus by its own weight cake may be helped out.  

   To Frost Cake. 

Where  cooked frostings  are used, it makes but little difference whether they are spread on  hot or cold cake.  Where uncooked frostings are used, it is best to have the cake slightly warm, with the exception of  Confectioners' Frosting,  where boiling water is employed.  

   Hot Water Sponge Cake. 

   Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 3/8 cup  hot water.  
 1/4 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Beat  yolks of eggs  until thick and lemon-colored, add one-half the  sugar  gradually, and continue beating; then add  water,  remaining  sugar,   lemon extract,   whites of eggs  beaten until stiff, and  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder  and  salt.  Bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven in a buttered and floured shallow pan.  

   Cheap Sponge Cake. 

   Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  hot water.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 2 teaspoons  vinegar.  
 
  Beat  yolks of eggs  until thick and lemon-colored, add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating; then add  water,   flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder  and  salt,   whites of eggs  beaten until stiff, and  vinegar.  Bake thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven, in a buttered and floured cake pan.  

 

   Cream Sponge Cake. 

   Yolks 4 eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  cold water.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  corn-starch.  
  Flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 
  Beat  yolks of eggs  until thick and lemon-colored, add  sugar  gradually, and beat two minutes; then add  water.  Put  corn-starch  in a cup and fill cup with  flour.  Mix and sift  corn-starch  and  flour  with  baking powder  and  salt,  and add to first mixture. When thoroughly mixed add  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff, and flavoring. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Sponge Cake. 

   Yolks 6 eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
  Grated rind one-half lemon.  
  Whites 6 eggs.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Beat  yolks  until thick and lemon-colored, add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating, using  Dover egg-beater.  Add  lemon-juice,   rind,  and  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff and dry. When  whites  are partially mixed with  yolks,  remove beater, and carefully cut and fold in  flour  mixed and sifted with  salt.  Bake one hour in a slow oven, in an  angel cake pan  or deep narrow pan.  Genuine sponge cake contains no rising properties, but is made light by the quantity of air beaten into both  yolks  and  whites of eggs,  and the expansion of that air in baking. It requires a slow oven. All so-called sponge cakes which have the addition of  soda  and  cream of tartar  or  baking powder  require same oven temperature as butter cakes. When failures are made in Sunshine and Angel Cake, they are usually traced to baking in too slow an oven, and removing from oven before thoroughly cooked.  

 

   Sunshine Cake. 

   Whites 10 eggs.  
 1 1/2 cups  powdered sugar.  
  Yolks 6 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff and dry, add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating; then add  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon colored, and extract. Cut and fold in  flour  mixed and sifted with  cream of tartar.  Bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven in an  angel cake pan.   

   Angel Cake. 

  1 cup  white of eggs.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  corn-starch.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff and dry, add  sugar  gradually and continue beating, then add flavoring. Cut and fold in  corn-starch,   flour,   salt,  and  cream of tartar,  mixed and sifted. Bake forty-five to fifty minutes in an unbuttered  angel cake pan  in a moderate oven.  

   Lady Fingers. 

   Whites 3 eggs.  
 1/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/3 cup of  flour.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff and dry, add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating. Then add  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon colored, and flavoring. Cut and fold in  flour  mixed and sifted with  salt.  Shape four and one-half inches long and one inch wide on a tin sheet covered with unbuttered paper, using a pastry bag and tube. Sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and bake eight minutes in a moderate oven. Remove from paper with a knife. Lady Fingers are much used for lining moulds that are to be filled with  whipped cream  mixtures. They 
 
 

are often served with  frozen desserts,  and sometimes put together in pairs with a thin coating of  whipped cream  between, when they are attractive for children's parties.  

   Sponge Drop. 

Drop  Lady Finger mixture  from tip of spoon on unbuttered paper. Sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and bake eight minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Jelly Roll. 

  3  eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 tablespoon  milk.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 
  Beat  egg  until light, add  sugar  gradually,  milk,   flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder  and  salt,  then  butter.  Line the bottom of a  dripping-pan  with paper; butter paper and sides of pan. Cover bottom of pan with mixture, and spread evenly. Cover bottom of pan with mixture and spread evenly. Bake twelve minutes in a moderate oven. Take from oven and turn on a paper sprinkled with  powdered sugar.  Quickly remove paper, and cut off a thin   from sides and ends of cake. Spread with  jelly  or  jam  which has been beaten to consistency to spread easily, and roll. After cake has been rolled, roll paper around cake that it may better keep in shape. The work must be done quickly, or cake will crack in rolling.  

   Aunt Caddie's Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1 cup  molasses.  
 1 cup  sour milk.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/3 teaspoon  clove.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3/4 cup  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  molasses,   sour milk,  and  raisins.  Mix and sift remaining ingredients, and combine mixtures. Bake fifty minutes in a deep pan.  

 

   Election Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  bread dough.  
 1  egg.  
 1 cup  brown sugar.  
 1/2 cup  sour milk.  
 2/3 cup  raisins  seeded and cup in pieces. 
 8 finely chopped  figs.  
 1 1/3 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/4 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/4 teaspoon  nutmeg.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Work  butter  into dough, using the band. Add  egg  well beaten,  sugar,   milk,  fruit dredged with two tablespoons  flour,  and  flour  mixed and sifted with remaining ingredients. Put into a well-buttered bread pan, cover, and let rise one and one-fourth hours. Bake one hour in a slow oven. Cover with  Boiled Milk Frosting.   

   One Egg Cake. 

  1/4 cup of  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup of  milk.  
 1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  egg  well beaten. Mix and sift  flour  and  baking powder,  add alternately with  milk  to first mixture. Bake thirty minutes in a shallow pan. Spread with  Chocolate Frosting.   

   Chocolate Cake. 

  3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 1/3 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 square  chocolate  melted. 
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add one-half  sugar,   egg  well beaten, and remaining  sugar.  Mix and sift  flour  and  baking powder,  add alternately with  milk  to first mixture. Then add  chocolate  and  vanilla.  Bake thirty minutes in a shallow pan.  

 

   Chocolate Nougat Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  powdered sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 2 cups  bread flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 2 squares  chocolate  melted. 
 1/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
 2/3 cup  almonds  blanched and shredded. 
 
  Cream the  butter,  add gradually one and one-half cups  sugar,  and  egg  unbeaten; when well mixed, add two-thirds  milk,   flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder,  and  vanilla.  To melted  chocolate  add one-third cup  powdered sugar;  place on range, add gradually remaining  milk,  and cook until smooth. Cool slightly, and add to cake mixture. Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in round layer cake pans. Put between layers and on top of cake  White Mountain Cream  sprinkled with  almonds.   

   Cream Pie I. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Mix as One Egg Cake. Bake in round layer cake pans. Put  Cream Filling  between layers and sprinkle top with  powdered sugar.   

   Cream Pie II. 

Make as Cream Pie I., using  French Cream Filling  in place of Cream Filling.  

   Cocoanut Pie. 

Mix and bake as Cream Pie, Put  Cocoanut Filling  between layers and on top.  

   Washington Pie. 

Mix and bake as Cream Pie. Put  raspberry jam or jelly  between layers and sprinkle top with  powdered sugar.   

 

   Chocolate Pie. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 1/3 cups  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Mix and bake as Cream Pie. Split layers, and spread between and on top of each a thin layer of  Chocolate Frosting.   

   Orange Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 2/3 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  eggs  well beaten, and  milk.  Then add  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder.  Bake in a thin sheet in a  dripping-pan.  Cut in halves, spread one-half with  Orange Filling.  Put over other half, and cover with  Orange Frosting.   

   Quick Cake. 

  1/3 cup soft  butter.  
 1 1/3 cups  brown sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 1/2 lb.  dates  stoned and cut in pieces. 
 
  Put ingredients in a bowl and beat all together for three minutes. Bake in a cake pan thirty-five to forty minutes. If directions are followed this makes a most satisfactory cake; but if ingredients are added separately it will not prove a success.  

   Boston Favorite Cake. 

  2/3 cup  butter.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 4  eggs.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3 1/2 cups  flour.  
 5 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  eggs  beaten until light, then  milk  and  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder.  This recipe makes two loaves.  

 

   Cream Cake. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2/3 cup  thin cream.  
 1 2/3 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/4 teaspoon  ginger.  
 
  Put unbeaten  eggs  in a bowl, add  sugar  and  cream,  and beat vigorously. Mix and sift remaining ingredients, then add to first mixture. Bake thirty minutes in a shallow cake pan.  

   Currant Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 2  eggs.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 cup  currants  mixed with 
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  eggs  and  egg yolk  well beaten. Then add  milk,   flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder,  and  currants.  Bake forty minutes in a buttered and floured cake pan.  

   Velvet Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
  Yolks 4 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 cup  corn-starch.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 1/3 cup  almonds  blanched and shredded. 
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually,  yolks of eggs  well beaten, and  water.  Mix and sift  flour,   corn-starch,  and  baking powder,  and add to first mixture; then add  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff. After putting in pan, cover with  almonds  and sprinkle with  powdered sugar.  Bake forty minutes in a moderate oven.  

 

   Walnut Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 3/4 cup  walnut meat  broken in pieces. 
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Cover with  White Mountain Cream,  crease in squares, and put one-half  walnut  on each square.  

   Spanish Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Bake in shallow tins and spread between and on top Caramel Frosting.  

   Cup Cake. 

  2/3 cup  butter.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 4  eggs.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3 1/4 cups  flour.  
 4 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mace.  
 
  Put  butter  and  sugar  in a bowl, and stir until well mixed; add  eggs  well beaten, then  milk,  and  flour  mixed and sifted with  baking powder  and  mace.  Bake in individual tins. Cover with  Chocolate Frosting.   

   Brownies. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1/3 cup  powdered sugar.  
 1/3 cup  Porto Rico molasses.  
 1  egg  well beaten. 
 7/8 cup  bread flour.  
 1 cup  pecan meat  cut in pieces. 
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Bake in small, shallow fancy cake tins, garnishing top of each cake with one-half  pecan.   

 

   Ribbon Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
  Yolks 4 eggs.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 3 1/2 cups  flour.  
 5 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/4 teaspoon  nutmeg.  
 1/3 cup  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 1/3 cup  figs  finely chopped. 
 1 tablespoon  molasses.  
 
  Mix first seven ingredients in order given. Bake two-thirds of the mixture in two layer cake pans. To the remainder add spices, fruit, and  molasses,  and bake in a layer cake pan. Put layers together with  jelly (apple  usually being preferred as it has less flavor), having the dark layer in the centre.  

   Coffee Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  raisins  seeded and cup in pieces. 
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 1/4 cup  boiled coffee.  
 2  eggs.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 teaspoon  allspice.  
 1/2  nutmeg  grated. 
 
  Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures.  

   Rich Coffee Cake. 

  1 cup  butter.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 4  eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  molasses.  
 1 cup  cold boiled coffee.  
 3 3/4 cups  flour.  
 5 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/2 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/2 teaspoon  allspice.  
 3/4 cup  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 3/4 cup  currants.  
 1/4 cup  citron  thinly sliced and cut in  s. 
 2 tablespoons  brandy.  
 
  Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures. Bake in deep cake pans.  

 

   Dark Fruit Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 3/4 cup  brown sugar.  
 3/4 cup  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 3/4 cup  currants.  
 1/2 cup  citron  thinly sliced and cut in  s.  
 1/2 cup  molasses.  
 2  eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  soda.  
 1 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1/2 teaspoon  allspice.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mace.  
 1/4 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 
  Follow directions for mixing butter cake mixtures. Bake in deep cake pans one and one-quarter hours.  

   Nut Cakes. 

   Meat from 1 lb. pecans.  
 1 lb.  powdered sugar.  
 1/4 cup  flour.  
  Whites 6 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Pound  nut meat  and mix with  sugar  and  flour.  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff, add first mixture and  vanilla.  Drop from tip of tablespoon (allowing one spoonful for each drop) on a tin sheet covered with buttered paper. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven.  

   Snow Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 2/3 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/4 teaspoon  almond extract.  
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake forty-five minutes in a deep narrow pan.  

   Lily Cake. 

  1/3 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 3/4 cups  flour.  
 2 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 1/3 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 2/3 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes.  

 

   Corn-starch Cake. 

  1 cup  butter.  
 2 cups  sugar.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  corn-starch.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 4 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 5 eggs.  
 3/4 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/2 teaspoon  almond extract.  
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two loaves.  

   Prune Almond Cake. 

Bake one-half  Corn-starch Cake mixture  in a  dripping-pan.  Cut in two crosswise, spread between layers  Prune Almond Filling,  and cover top with  White Mountain Cream.   

   Prune Almond Filling. 

To one-half the recipe for  White Mountain Cream  add eight soft  prunes  stoned and cut in pieces, and one-fourth cup  almonds  blanched and cut in pieces.  

   Marshmallow Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
  Whites 5 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, and put  Marshmallow Cream  between the layers and on the top.  

   Fig éclair. 

  1/2 cup  butter  (scant). 
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 7/8 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake in shallow pans, put between layers  Fig Filling,  and sprinkle top with  powdered sugar.   

 

   Banana Cake. 

Mix and bake  Fig éclair mixture;  put between layers  White Mountain Cream  covered with thin slices of  banana,  and frost the top. This should be eaten the day it is made.  

   Bride's Cake. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
  Whites six eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  almond extract.  
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. Bake forty-five to fifty minutes in deep, narrow pans. Cover with  white frosting.   

   Light Fruit Cake. 

To  Fig éclair mixture  add one-half cup  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces, two ounces  citron  thinly sliced and cut in  s, and one-third cup  walnut meat  cut in pieces. In making mixture, reserve one tablespoon  flour  to use for dredging fruit.  

   White Nut Cake. 

  3/4 cup  butter.  
 1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 1/2 cups  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 3 teaspoons  baking powder.  
  Whites 8 eggs.  
 1 cup  walnut meat  cut in pieces. 
 
  Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two loaves.  

   Golden Cake. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 5 eggs.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 7/8 cup  flour.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  baking powder.  
 1 teaspoon  orange extract.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon colored, and extract. 
 
 

Mix and sift  flour  and  baking powder,  and add alternately with  milk  to first mixture. Omit  orange extract,  add one-half cup  nut meat  cut in small pieces, and bake in individual tins.  

   Mocha Cake. 

Bake a  sponge cake mixture  in sheets. Shape in small rounds, and cut in three layers. Put layers together with a thin coating of  frosting.  Spread frosting around sides and roll in shredded  cocoanut.  Ornament top with frosting forced through a pastry bag and tube, using the rose tube. Begin at centre of top and coil frosting around until surface is covered. Garnish centre of top with a  candied cherry.    Frosting.  Wash one-third cup  butter,  add one cup  powdered sugar  gradually, and beat until creamy. Then add one cup  Cream  Filling which has been cooled. Flavor with one-half teaspoon  vanilla  and one and one-half squares melted  chocolate.   This frosting is sometimes colored pink, yellow, green, or lavender, and flavored with  rose,   vanilla,  or a combination of  almond  and  vanilla.  Large Mocha Cakes are baked in two round  layer cake tins,  each cake being cut in two layers. Layers are put together as small cakes. The top is spread smoothly with frosting, then ornamented with large pieces of  candied fruits  arranged in a design, and frosting forced through pastry bag and tube.  

   Cream Cakes. 

  1/2 cup  butter.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 4  eggs.  
 1 cup  flour.  
 
  Put  butter  and  water  in saucepan and place on front of range. As soon as boiling point is reached, add  flour  all at once, and stir vigorously. Remove from fire as soon as mixed, and add unbeaten  eggs  one at a time, beating, until thoroughly mixed, between the addition of  eggs.  Drop by spoonfuls on a buttered sheet, one and one-half inches apart, shaping with handle of spoon as nearly circular 
 
 

as possible, having mixture slightly piled in centre. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. With a sharp knife make a cut in each large enough to admit of  Cream Filling.  This recipe makes eighteen small cream cakes. For flavoring cream filling use  lemon extract.  If  cream  cakes are removed from oven before being thoroughly cooked, they will fall. If in doubt, take one from oven, and if it does not fall, this is sufficient proof that others are cooked.  

   French Cream Cakes. 

Fill  Cream Cakes  with  Cream Sauce I.   

   French Strawberry Cream Cakes. 

Shape  cream cake mixture  oblong, making twelve cakes. Split and fill with  Strawberry Cream Filling.   

   éclairs. 

Shape  cream cake mixture  four and one-half inches long by one inch wide, by forcing through a pastry bag and tube. Bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Split and fill with  vanilla,   coffee,  or  chocolate cream filling.  Frost with  Confectioners' Frosting  to which is added one-third cup  melted Fondant,  dipping top of éclairs in frosting while it is hot.  

   Lemon Queens. 

  1/4 lb.  butter.  
 1/2 lb.  sugar.  
  Grated rind 1 lemon.  
 3/4 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
  Yolks 4 eggs.  
 5 oz.  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
  Whites 4 eggs.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating. Then add grated  rind,   lemon juice,  and  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon colored. Mix and sift  soda,   salt,  and  baking powder;  add to first mixture and beat thoroughly. Add  whites of eggs  beaten stiff. Bake from twenty to twenty-five minutes in small tins.  

 

   Queen Cake. 

  2/3 cup  butter.  
 2 cups  flour  (scant). 
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
  Whites 6 eggs.  
 1 1/4 cups  powdered sugar.  
 1 1/2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  flour  gradually, mixed and sifted with  soda,  then add  lemon juice.  Beat  whites of eggs  until stiff; add  sugar  gradually, and combine the mixtures. Bake fifty minutes in a long shallow pan. Cover with  Opera Caramel Frosting.   

   Pound Cake. 

  1 lb.  butter.  
 1 lb.  sugar.  
  Yolks 10 eggs.  
  Whites 10 eggs.  
 1 lb.  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  mace.  
 2 tablespoons  brandy.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and continue beating; then add  yolks of eggs  beaten until thick and lemon colored,  whites of eggs  beaten until stiff and dry,  flour,   mace,  and  brandy.  Beat vigorously five minutes. Bake in a deep pan one and one fourth hours in a slow oven; or if to be used for fancy ornamented cakes, bake thirty to thirty-five minutes in a  dripping-pan.   

   English Fruit Cake. 

  1 lb.  butter.  
 1 lb. light  brown sugar.  
 9  eggs.  
 1 lb.  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  mace.  
 2 teaspoons  cinnamon,  
 1 teaspoon  soda.  
 2 tablespoons  milk.  
 3 lbs.  currants.  
 2 lbs.  raisins  seeded and finely chopped. 
 1/2 lb.  almonds  blanched and shredded. 
 1 lb.  citron  thinly sliced and cut in  s. 
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and beat thoroughly. Separate  yolks  from  whites of eggs;  beat  yolks  until thick and lemon colored,  whites  until stiff and dry, and add to first mixture. Then add  milk,  fruit, and  flour  mixed and sifted with  mace,   cinnamon,  and  soda.  
 
 

Put in deep pans, cover with buttered paper, steam three hours, and bake one and one-half hours in a slow oven, or bake four hours in a very slow oven.  

   Imperial Cake. 

  1/2 lb.  butter.  
 1/2 lb.  sugar.  
  Yolks 5 eggs.  
  Whites 5 eggs.  
  Grated rind 1/2 lemon.  
 2 teaspoons  lemon juice.  
 1/2 lb.  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 1/2 cup  walnut meat  broken in pieces. 
 1/2 lb.  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
 
  Mix same as Pound Cake, adding  raisins  dredged with  flour,  and  nuts  at the last.  

   Wedding Cake. 

  1 lb.  butter.  
 1 lb.  sugar.  
 12  eggs.  
 1 lb.  flour.  
 2 teaspoons  cinnamon.  
  Nutmeg,   } 
  Allspice, } 3/4 teaspoon each. 
  Mace,     } 
 1/2 teaspoon  clove.  
 3 lbs.  raisins  seeded and cut in pieces. 
 1 lb.  currants.  
 1 lb.  citron  thinly sliced and cut in  s. 
 1 lb.  figs  finely chopped. 
 1/4 cup  brandy.  
 2 tablespoons  lemon juice.  
 
  Cream the  butter,  add  sugar  gradually, and beat thoroughly. Separate  yolks  from  whites of eggs;  beat  yolks  until thick and lemon colored,  whites  until stiff and dry, and add to first mixture. Add  flour  (excepting one-third cup, which should be reserved to dredge fruit) mixed and sifted, with  spices,   brandy,  and  lemon juice.  Then add fruit, except  citron,  dredged with reserved  flour.  Dredge  citron  with  flour  and put in layers between cake mixture when putting in the pan. Bake same as English Fruit Cake.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS. 
   Cream Filling. 

  7/8 cup  sugar.  
 1/3 cup  flour.  
 1/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 2  eggs.  
 2 cups  scalded milk.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon extract.  
 
  Mix dry ingredients, add  eggs  slightly beaten, and pour on gradually  scalded milk.  Cook fifteen minutes in  double boiler,  stirring constantly until thickened, afterwards occasionally. Cool slightly and flavor.  

   Chocolate Cream Filling. 

Put one and one-fourth squares  Baker's chocolate  in a saucepan and melt over  hot water.  Add to  Cream Filling,  using in making one cup  sugar  in place of seven-eighths cup.  

   Coffee Cream Filling. 

Flavor  Cream Filling  with one and one-half tablespoons  coffee extract.   

   French Cream Filling. 

  3/4 cup  thick cream  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1/4 cup  powdered sugar.  
  White one egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Dilute  cream  with  milk  and beat until stiff, using  Dover egg-beater.  Add  sugar,   white of egg  beaten until stiff, and  vanilla.   

 

   Strawberry Filling. 

  1 cup  thick cream.  
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
  White 1 egg.  
 1/2 cup  strawberries.  
 1/4 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Beat  cream  until stiff, using  Dover egg-beater,  add  sugar,   white of egg  beaten until stiff,  strawberries  mashed, and  vanilla.   

   Lemon Filling. 

  1 cup  sugar.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
  Grated rind 2 lemons.  
 1/4 cup  lemon juice.  
 1  egg.  
 1 teaspoon  butter.  
 
  Mix  sugar  and  flour,  add grated  rind,   lemon juice,  and  egg  slightly beaten. Put  butter  in saucepan; when melted, add mixture, and stir constantly until boiling point is reached. Care must be taken that mixture does not adhere to bottom of saucepan. Cool before spreading.  

   Orange Filling. 

  1/2 cup  sugar.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
  Grated rind 1/2 orange.  
 1/4 cup  orange juice.  
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 1  egg  slightly beaten. 
 1 teaspoon  butter.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Cook ten minutes in  double boiler,  stirring constantly. Cool before spreading.  

   Chocolate Filling. 

  2 1/2 squares  chocolate.  
 1 cup  powdered sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  milk.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Melt  chocolate  over  hot water,  add one-half the  sugar,  and  milk;  add remaining  sugar,  and  yolk of egg;  then cook in  double boiler  until it thickens, stirring constantly at first, that mixture may be perfectly smooth. Cool slightly, flavor, and spread.  

   Nut or Fruit Filling. 

To  White Mountain Cream  add  chopped walnuts,   almonds,   figs,   dates,  or  raisins,  separately or in combination.  

 

   Cocoanut Filling. 

   Whites 2 eggs.  
 Fresh grated  cocoanut.  
  Powdered sugar.  
 
  Beat  whites of eggs  on a platter with a fork until stiff. Add enough  powdered sugar  to spread. Spread over cake, sprinkle thickly with  cocoanut.  Use for layer cake, having filling between and on top.  

   Lemon Cocoanut Cream. 

   Juice and grated rind 1 lemon.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 1 cup shredded  cocoanut.  
 
  Mix  lemon juice and rind  with  sugar  and  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten; cook ten minutes in  double boiler,  stirring constantly; then add  cocoanut.  Cool and use as a filling for  Corn-starch Cake.   

   Fig Filling. 

  1/2 lb.  figs  finely chopped. 
 1/3 cup  sugar.  
 1/3 cup  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Mix ingredients in the order given and cook in  double boiler  until thick enough to spread.  

   Marshmallow Paste. 

  3/4 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  milk.  
 1/4 lb.  marshmallows.  
 2 tablespoons  hot water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Put  sugar  and  milk  in a saucepan, heat slowly to boiling point without stirring, and boil six minutes. Break marshmallows in pieces and melt in  double boiler,  add  hot water  and cook until mixture is smooth, then add  hot syrup  gradually, stirring constantly. Beat until cool enough to spread, then add  vanilla.  This may be used for both filling and frosting.  

   Pistachio Paste. 

To  Marshmallow Paste  add a few drops  extract of almond,  one-third cup  pistachio nuts  blanched and chopped, and  leaf green  to color. Use same as Marshmallow Paste.  

 

   Prune Almond Filling. 

To  White Mountain Cream  add one-half cup selected  prunes,  stoned and cut in pieces, and one-third cup  almonds  blanched and chopped.  

   Confectioners' Frosting. 

  2 tablespoons  boiling water.  
  Confectioners' sugar.  
  Flavoring.  
 
  To  water  add enough sifted  sugar  to make of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring.  Fresh  fruit juice  may be used in place of boiling water.  This is a most satisfactory frosting, and is both easily and quickly made.  

   Orange Frosting. 

   Grated rind 1 orange.  
 1 teaspoon  brandy.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 1 tablespoon  orange juice.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
  Confectioners' sugar.  
 
  Add  rind  to  brandy  and  fruit juices;  let stand fifteen minutes. Strain, and add gradually to  yolk of egg  slightly beaten. Stir in  confectioners' sugar  until of right consistency to spread.  

   Gelatine Frosting. 

  2 1/2 tablespoons  boiling water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  granulated gelatine.  
 3/4 cup  confectioners' sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Dissolve  gelatine  in  boiling water.  Add  sugar  and flavoring and beat until of right consistency to spread. Crease in squares when slightly hardened.  

   Plain Frosting. 

   White 1 egg.  
 2 teaspoons  cold water.  
 3/4 cup  confectioners' sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Beat  white of egg  until stiff; add  water  and  sugar.  Beat thoroughly, then add flavoring. Use more  sugar  if needed. Spread with a broad-bladed knife.  

 

   Chocolate Frosting. 

  1 1/2 squares  chocolate.  
 1/3 cup  scalded cream.  
 Few grains  salt.  
  Yolk 1 egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  melted butter.  
  Confectioners' sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Melt  chocolate  over  hot water,  add  cream  gradually,  salt,   yolk of egg,  and  butter.  Stir in  confectioners' sugar  until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring.  

   White Mountain Cream. 

   cup   sugar.  
 1/3 cup  boiling water.  
  White 1 egg.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Put  sugar  and  water  in saucepan, and stir to prevent  sugar  from adhering to saucepan; heat gradually to boiling point, and boil without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon or tines of silver folk. Pour syrup gradually on beaten  white of egg,  beating mixture constantly, and continue beating until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with back of spoon. Crease as soon as firm. If not beaten long enough, frosting will run; if beaten too long, it will not be smooth. Frosting beaten too long may be improved by adding a few drops of  lemon juice  or  boiling water.  This frosting is soft inside, and has a glossy surface. If frosting is to be ornamented with  nuts  or  candied cherries,  place them on frosting as soon as spread.  

   Boiled Frosting. 

  1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  water.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla  or 
 1/2 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 
  Make same as White Mountain Cream. This frosting, on account of the larger quantity of  egg,  does not stiffen so quickly as White Mountain Cream, therefore is more successfully made by the inexperienced.  

 

   Boiled Chocolate Frosting. 

To  White Mountain Cream  or  Boiled Frosting  add one and one-half squares melted  chocolate  as soon as syrup is added to  whites of eggs.   

   Brown Frosting. 

Make same as Boiled Frosting, using  brown sugar  in place of  white sugar.   

   Maple Sugar Frosting. 

  1 lb.  soft maple sugar.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 
  Break  sugar  in small pieces, put in saucepan with  boiling water,  and stir occasionally until  sugar  is dissolved. Boil without stirring until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour syrup gradually on beaten  whites,  beating mixture constantly, and continue beating until of right consistency to spread.  

   Cream Maple Sugar Frosting. 

  1 lb.  soft maple sugar.  
 1 cup  cream.  
 
  Break  sugar  in small pieces, put in saucepan with  cream,  and stir occasionally until  sugar  is dissolved. Boil without stirring until a ball can be formed when mixture is tried in  cold water.  Beat until of right consistency to spread.  

   Milk Frosting. 

  1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 teaspoon  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Put  butter  in saucepan; when melted, add  sugar  and  milk.  Stir to be sure that  sugar  does not adhere to saucepan, heat to boiling point, and boil without stirring thirteen minutes. Remove from fire, and beat until of right consistency to spread; then add flavoring and pour over cake, spreading evenly with back of spoon. Crease as soon as firm.  

 

   Caramel Frosting. 

Make as  Milk Frosting,  adding one and one-half squares  melted chocolate  as soon as boiling point is reached.  

   Opera Caramel Frosting. 

  1 1/2 cups  brown sugar.  
 3/4 cup  thin cream.  
 1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 
  Boil ingredients together until a ball can be formed when mixture is tried in  cold water.  It takes about forty minutes for boiling. Beat until of right consistency to spread.  

 
 Fondant Icing. 
 The mixture in which small cakes are dipped for icing is fondant, the recipe for which may be found in chapter on Confections. Cakes for dipping must first be glazed.  
   To Glaze Cakes. 

Beat  white of one egg  slightly, and add one tablespoon  powdered sugar.  Apply with a brush to top and sides of cakes. After glazing, cakes should stand over night before dipping.  

   To Dip Cakes. 

Melt  fondant  over  hot water,  and color and flavor as desired. Stir to prevent crust from forming on top. Take cake to be dipped on a three-tined fork and lower in fondant three-fourths the depth of cake. Remove from fondant, invert, and slip from fork to a board. Decorate with  ornamental frosting  and  nut meat,   candied cherries,   angelica,  or  candied violets.  For small ornamented cakes,  pound cake mixture  is baked a little more than one inch thick in shallow pans, and when cool cut in squares, diamonds, triangles, circles, crescents, etc.  

   Ornamental Frosting I. 

  2 cups  sugar.  
 1 cup  water.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 1/4 teaspoon  tartaric acid.  
 
  Boil  sugar  and  water  until syrup when dropped from tip of spoon forms a long thread. Pour syrup gradually 
 
 

on beaten  whites of eggs,  beating constantly; then add acid and continue beating. When stiff enough to spread, put a thin coating over cake. Beat remaining frosting until cold and stiff enough to keep in shape after being forced through a  pastry tube.  After first coating on cake has hardened, cover with a thicker layer, and crease for cutting. If frosting is too stiff to spread smoothly, thin with a few drops of  water.  With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be ornamented as desired.  

  Cake being ornamented with Ornamental Frosting.  A pastry tube and several extra tips laying on a board next to a cake which has been partially decorated.  
   Ornamental Frosting II. 

   Whites 3 eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
  Confectioners' sugar,  sifted. 
 
  Put  eggs  in a large bowl, add two tablespoons  sugar,  and beat three minutes, using a  perforated wooden spoon.  Repeat until one and one-half cups  sugar  are used. Add  lemon juice  gradually, as mixture thickens. Continue adding  sugar  by spoonfuls, and beating until frosting is stiff enough to spread. This may be determined by taking up some of mixture on back of spoon, and with a  case knife  making a cut through mixture; if knife makes a clean cut and frosting remains parted, it is of right consistency. Spread cake thinly with frosting; when 
 
 

this has hardened, put on a thicker layer, having mixture somewhat stiffer than first coating, and then crease for cutting. To remaining frosting add enough more  sugar,  that frosting may keep in shape after being forced through a pastry bag and tube.  With a pastry bag and variety of tubes, cake may be ornamented as desired.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS. 
 ALMOND paste for making macaroons and small fancy cakes may be bought of dealers who keep confectioners' supplies, although sometimes a resident baker or confectioner will sell a small quantity. Almond paste is put up in five-pound tin pails, and retails for one and one-half dollars per pail. During the cold weather it will keep after being opened for a long time. 
   Macaroons. 

  1/2 lb.  almond paste.  
  Whites 3 eggs.  
 3/8 lb.  powdered sugar.  
 
  Work together  almond paste  and  sugar  on a smooth board or marble slab. Then add  whites of eggs  gradually, and work until mixture is perfectly smooth. Confectioners at first use the hand, afterward a  palette knife,  which is not only of use for mixing but for keeping board clean. Shape, using a pastry bag and tube, on a tin sheet covered with buttered paper, one-half inch apart; or drop mixture, from tip of spoon in small piles.  Macaroon mixture  is stiff enough to hold its shape, but in baking spreads. Bake fifteen to twenty minutes in a slow oven. If liked soft, they should be slightly baked. After removing from oven, invert paper, and wet with a cloth wrung out of  cold water,  when  macaroons  will easily slip off.  

 

   Almond Macaroons. 

Sprinkle  Macaroons,  before baking, with  almonds  blanched and shredded, or chopped.  

   Crescents. 

  1/4 lb.  almond paste.  
 2 oz.  confectioners' sugar.  
  White 1 small egg.  
  Almonds  blanched and finely chopped. 
 
  Mix same as Macaroons. Shape mixture, which is quite soft, in a long roll. Cut pieces from roll three-fourths inch long. Roll each separately in chopped  nuts,  at the same time shaping to form a crescent. Bake twenty minutes on a buttered tin sheet in a slow oven. Cool and frost with  Confectioners' Frosting,  made thin enough to apply with a brush, and flavored with  lemon juice  until quite acid.  Other  nuts  may be used in place of  almonds.    

   Cinnamon Bars. 

  10 oz.  almond paste.  
 5 oz.  confectioners' sugar.  
  White 1 egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 
  Mix same as  Macaroons.  Dredge a board with  sugar,  knead mixture slightly, and shape in a long roll. Pat and roll one-fourth inch thick, using a rolling-pin. After rolling, the piece should be four inches wide. Spread with frosting made of  white of one egg  and two-thirds cup  confectioners' sugar  beaten together until stiff enough to spread. Cut in  s four inches long by three-fourths inch wide. This must be quickly done, as a crust soon forms over frosting. To accomplish this, use two knives, one placed through mixture where dividing line is to be made, and the other used to make a clean sharp cut on both sides of first knife. Knives should be kept clean by wiping on a damp cloth. Remove  s, as soon as cut, to a tin sheet, greased with  lard  and then floured. Bake twenty minutes on centre grate in a slow oven.  

 

   Horseshoes. 

Use  Cinnamon Bar mixture . Cover with  frosting  colored with  fruit red.  Cut in  s six inches long by one-half inch wide. As soon as cut, shape quickly, at the same time carefully, in form of horseshoes. Bake same as Cinnamon Bars. When cool, make eight dots with  chocolate frosting  to represent nails.  

   Cocoanut Cakes I. 

  1/2 lb. fresh grated  cocoanut.  
  Whites  1 1/2  eggs.  
 6 oz.  sugar  and  glucose,  using one mixing-spoon glucose. 
 
   German Confectioner.   Cook  cocoanut,   sugar  and glucose, in  double boiler  until mixture clings to spoon, add  whites of eggs,  stir vigorously, and cook until mixture feels sticky when tried between the fingers. Spread in a wet pan, cover with wet paper, and chill on ice. Shape in small balls, first dipping hands in  cold water.  Bake twenty minutes in a slow oven on a tin sheet greased with white wax.  

   Cocoanut Cakes II. 

  1 lb. fresh grated  cocoanut.  
 3/4 lb.  sugar.  
  Whites 2 eggs.  
 
  Cook, shape, and bake same as Cocoanut Cakes I.  

   Stuffed Dates I. 

Make a cut the entire length of  dates  and remove stones. Fill cavities with  castanea nuts,   English walnuts,  or blanched  almonds,  and shape in original form. Roll in  granulated sugar.  Pile in rows on a small plate covered with a doily. If  castanea nuts  are used, with a sharp knife cut off the brown skin which lies next to shell.  

   Stuffed Date II. 

Remove stones from  dates  and fill cavities with  Neufchatel cheese.   

 

   Salted Almonds I. 

Blanch one-fourth pound  Jordan almonds  and dry on a towel. Put one-third cup  olive oil  in a very small saucepan. When hot, put in one-fourth of the  almonds  and fry until delicately browned, stirring to keep  almonds  constantly in motion. Remove with a spoon or small  skimmer,  taking up as little  oil  as possible. Drain on brown paper and sprinkle with  salt;  repeat until all are fried. It may be necessary to remove some of the  salt  by wiping  nuts  with a napkin.  

   Salted Almonds II. 

Prepare  almonds  as for Salted Almonds I. Fry in one-third cup  fat,  using half  lard  and half  clarified butter  or all  cocoanut butter.  Drain and sprinkle with  salt.   

   Salted Peanuts. 

In buying  peanuts  for salting, get those which have not been roasted. Remove skins and fry same as Salted Almonds I. or II.  

   Salted Pecans. 

 Shelled pecans  may be bought by the pound, which is much the best way when used for salting, as it is difficult to remove the nut meat without breaking. Fry same as Salted Almonds I. or II. Care must be taken that they do not remain in  fat  too long; having a dark skin, color does not determine when they are sufficiently cooked.  

   Parisian Sweets. 

  1 lb.  figs.  
 1 lb.  dates.  
 1 lb.  English walnut meat.  
  Confectioners' sugar.  
 
  Pick over and remove stems from  figs  and stones from  dates.  Mix fruit with  walnut meat,  and force through a  meat-chopper.  Work, using the hands, on a board dredged with  confectioners' sugar,  until well blended. Roll to one-fourth inch thickness, using  confectioners' 
 
 

sugar  for dredging board and pin. Shape with a small  round cutter,  first dipped in  sugar,  or cut with a sharp knife in three-fourth inch squares. Roll each piece in  confectioners' sugar,  and shake to remove superfluous  sugar.  Pack in layers in a tin box, putting paper between each layer. These confections may be used at dinner in place of bonbons or ginger chips.  A combination of  nut meat (walnut, almond, and filbert)  may be used in equal proportions.   

   Molasses Candy. 

  2 cups  Porto Rico molasses.  
 2/3 cup  sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  vinegar.  
 
  An iron kettle with a rounding bottom ( Scotch kettle ), or copper kettle is best for candy making. If one has no copper kettle, a granite kettle is best for  sugar  candies.  Put  butter  in kettle, place over fire, and when melted, add  molasses  and  sugar.  Stir until  sugar  is dissolved. During the first of the boiling, stirring is unnecessary; but when nearly cooked, it should be constantly stirred. Boil until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture will become brittle. Add  vinegar  just before taking from fire. Pour into a well buttered pan. When cool enough to handle, pull until porous and light colored, allowing candy to come in contact with tips of fingers and thumbs, not to be squeezed in the hand. Cut in small pieces, using large shears or a sharp knife, and then arrange on slightly buttered plates to cool.  

   Velvet Molasses Candy. 

  1 cup  molasses.  
 3 cups  sugar.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 3 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 1/2 cup  melted butter.  
 1/4 teaspoon  soda.  
 
  Put first four ingredients in kettle placed over front of range. As soon as boiling point is reached, add  cream of tartar.  Boil until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture 
 
 

will become brittle. Stir constantly during last part of cooking. When nearly done, add  butter  and  soda.  Pour into a buttered pan and pull same as Molasses Candy. While pulling, add one teaspoon  vanilla,  one-half teaspoon  lemon extract,  few drops  oil of peppermint,  or few drops  oil of wintergreen.   

   Buttercups. 

  2 cups  molasses.  
 1 cup  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/3 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
  Fondant flavored with vanilla.  
 
  Boil ingredients (except fondant) until, when tried in  cold water,  a firm ball may be formed in the fingers, not stirring until the last few minutes of cooking. Pour on a buttered platter, and when cool enough to handle, pull until light colored. Shape on a floured board, having   wide enough to enclose a roll of fondant one inch in diameter. Place fondant on candy, bring edges of candy together, and press firmly over fondant. With both hands pull candy into a long  . Cut in small pieces; each piece will consist of fondant encircled with  molasses candy:  Care must be taken that candy is not cooked too long, as it should be soft rather than brittle.  

   Vinegar Candy. 

  2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  vinegar.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Put  butter  into kettle; when melted, add  sugar  and  vinegar.  Stir until  sugar  is dissolved, afterwards occasionally. Boil until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture will become brittle. Turn on a buttered platter to cool. Pull and cut same as Molasses Candy.  

   Ice Cream Candy. 

  3 cups  sugar.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 1/2 tablespoon  vinegar.  
 
  Boil ingredients together without stirring, until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture will become brittle. Turn on 
 
 

a well buttered platter to cool. As edges cool, fold towards centre. As soon as it can be handled, pull until white and glossy. While pulling, flavor as desired, using  vanilla,   orange extract,   coffee extract,   oil of sassafras,  or  melted chocolate.  Cut in sticks or small pieces.  

   Butter Scotch. 

  1 cup  sugar.  
 1/4 cup  molasses.  
 2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 2 tablespoons  boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  butter.  
 
  Boil ingredients together until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture will become brittle. Turn into a well buttered pan; when slightly cool, mark with a sharp-pointed knife in squares. This candy is much improved by cooking a small piece of  vanilla bean  with other ingredients.  

   Butter Taffy. 

  2 cups light  brown sugar.  
 1/4 cup  molasses.  
 2 tablespoons  vinegar.  
 2 tablespoons  water.  
 7/8 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 2 teaspoons  vanilla.  
 
  Boil first five ingredients until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture will become brittle. When nearly done, add  butter,  and just before turning into pan,  vanilla.  Cool and mark in squares.  

   Horehound Candy. 

  3/4 square inch  pressed horehound.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 3 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Pour  boiling water  over horehound which has been separated in pieces; let stand one minute, then strain through double  cheese cloth.  Put into a granite kettle with remaining ingredients, and boil until, when tried in  cold water,  mixture will become brittle. Turn into a buttered pan, cool slightly, then mark in small squares. Small square packages of horehound may be bought for five cents.  

 

   Chocolate Caramels. 

  2 1/2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 cups  molasses.  
 1 cup  brown sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 3 squares  chocolate.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Put  butter  into kettle; when melted, add  molasses,   sugar,  and  milk.  Stir until  sugar  is dissolved, and when boiling point is reached, add  chocolate,  stirring constantly until  chocolate  is melted. Boil until, when tried in  cold water,  a firm ball may be formed in the fingers. Add  vanilla  just after taking from fire. Turn into a buttered pan, cool, and mark in small squares.  

   Nut Chocolate Caramels. 

To  Chocolate Caramels  add the  meat from one pound English walnuts  broken in pieces, or one-half pound  almonds  blanched and chopped.  

   Peanut Nougat. 

  1 lb.  sugar.  
 1 quart  peanuts.  
 
  Shell, remove skins, and finely chop  peanuts.  Sprinkle with one-fourth teaspoon  salt.  Put  sugar  in a perfectly smooth  granite saucepan,  place on range, and stir constantly until melted to a syrup, taking care to keep  sugar  from sides of pan. Add  nut meat,  pour at once into a warm buttered tin, and mark in small squares. If  sugar  is not removed from range as soon as melted, it will quickly caramelize.  

   Nut Bar. 

Cover the bottom of a buttered shallow pan with one and one-third cups  nut meat (castaneas, English walnuts, or almonds)  cut in quarters. Pour over one pound  sugar,  melted as for Peanut Nougat. Mark in bars.  

 

   French Nougat. 

  1/2 lb.  confectioners' sugar.  
 1/2 lb.  almonds  blanched and finely chopped. 
  Confectioners' chocolate.  
 
  Put  sugar  in a saucepan, place on range, and stir constantly until melted; add  almonds,  and pour on an oiled marble. Fold mixture as it spreads with a broad-bladed knife, keeping it constantly in motion. Divide in four parts, and as soon as cool enough to handle shape in long rolls about one-third inch in diameter, keeping rolls in motion until almost cold. When cold, snap in pieces one and one-half inches long. This is done by holding roll at point to be snapped over the sharp edge of a broad-bladed knife and snapping. Melt  confectioners' chocolate  over  hot water,  beat with a fork until light and smooth, and when slightly cooled dip pieces in  chocolate  and with a two-tined fork or  bonbon dipper  remove from  chocolate  to oiled paper, drawing  dipper  through top of each the entire length, thus leaving a ridge.  Chocolate  best adapted for dipping bonbons and confections must be bought where confectioners' supplies are kept.  

   Nougatine Drops. 

Drop  French Nougat mixture  from the tip of a spoon on an oiled marble very soon after taking from fire. These drops have a rough surface. When cold, dip in  melted confectioner's chocolate.   

   Wintergreen Wafers. 

  1 oz.  gum tragacanth.  
 1 cup  cold water.  
  Confectioners' sugar.  
  Oil of wintergreen.  
 
  Soak gum tragacanth in  water  twenty-four hours, and rub through a fine  wire sieve;  add enough  confectioners' sugar  to knead. Flavor with a few drops  oil of wintergreen.  If liked pink, color with  fruit red.  Roll until 
 
 

very thin on a board or marble dredged with  sugar.  Shape with a small  round cutter  or cut in three-fourths inch squares. Spread wafers, cover, and let stand until dry and brittle. This mixture may be flavored with  oil of lemon, clove, sassafras, etc.,  and colored as desired.  

   Cocoanut Cream Candy. 

  1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 2 teaspoons  butter.  
 1/3 cup shredded  cocoanut.  
 1/2 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Put  butter  into  granite saucepan;  when melted, add  sugar  and  milk,  and stir until  sugar  is dissolved. Heat to boiling point, and boil twelve minutes; remove from fire, add  cocoanut  and  vanilla,  and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly, and mark in squares.  One-half cup  nut meat,  broken in pieces, may be used in place of cocoanut.   

   Chocolate Cream Candy. 

  2 cups  sugar.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 2 squares  chocolate.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 
  Put  butter  into  granite saucepan;  when melted, add  sugar  and  milk.  Heat to boiling point; then add  chocolate,  and stir constantly until  chocolate  is melted. Boil thirteen minutes, remove from fire, add  vanilla,  and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge of saucepan. Pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly, and mark in squares. Omit  vanilla,  and add, while cooking, one-fourth teaspoon  cinnamon.   

   Maple Sugar Candy. 

  1 lb.  soft maple sugar.  
 3/4 cup  thin cream.  
 1/4 cup  boiling water.  
 2/3 cup  English walnut or pecan meat  cut in pieces. 
 
  Break  sugar  in pieces; put into a saucepan with  cream  and  water.  Bring to boiling point, and boil until a soft 
 
 

ball is formed when tried in  cold water.  Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add  nut meat,  and pour into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares.  

   Sultana Caramels. 

  2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/4 cup  molasses.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 2 squares  chocolate.  
 1 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 1/2 cup  English walnut or hickory nut meat  cut in pieces. 
 2 tablespoons  Sultana raisins.  
 
  Put  butter  into a saucepan; when melted, add  sugar,   milk,  and  molasses.  Heat to boiling point, and boil seven minutes. Add  chocolate,  and stir until  chocolate  is melted; then boil seven minutes longer. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add  nuts,   raisins,  and  vanilla,  and pour at once into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares.  

   Pralines. 

  1 7/8 cups  powdered sugar.  
 1 cup  maple syrup.  
 1/2 cup  cream.  
 2 cups  hickory nut or pecan meat  cut in pieces. 
 
  Boil first three ingredients until, when tried in  cold water,  a soft ball may be formed. Remove from fire, and beat until of a creamy consistency; add  nuts,  and drop from tip of spoon in small piles on buttered paper.  

   Creamed Walnuts. 

   White 1 egg.  
 1/2 tablespoon  cold water.  
 3/4 teaspoon  vanilla.  
 1 lb.  confectioners' sugar.  
  English walnuts.  
 
  Put  egg,   water,  and  vanilla  in a bowl, and beat until well blended. Add  sugar  gradually until stiff enough to knead. Shape in balls, flatten, and place halves of walnuts opposite each other on each piece. Sometimes all the  sugar  will not be required.  

 

   Peppermints. 

  1 1/2 cups  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 6 drops  oil of peppermint.  
 
  Put  sugar  and  water  into a  granite saucepan  and stir until  sugar  is dissolved. Boil ten minutes; remove from fire, add  peppermint,  and beat until of right consistency. Drop from tip of spoon on slightly buttered paper.  

 
 BOILED SUGAR FOR CONFECTIONS. 
 Eleven tests are considered for boiling sugar:-- 
 
 
 Small thread, 
 215° F. 
 
 
 Large thread, 
 217°. 
 
 
 Pearl, 
 220°. 
 
 
 Large pearl, 
 222°. 
 
 
 The blow, 
 230°. 
 
 
 The feather, 
 232°. 
 
 
 Soft ball, 
 238°. 
 
 
 Hard ball, 
 248°. 
 
 
 Small crack, 
 290°. 
 
 
 Crack, 
 310°. 
 
 
 Caramel, 
 350°. 
  
 Fondant, the basis of all French candy, is made of sugar and water boiled together (with a small quantity of cream of tartar to prevent sugar from granulating) to soft ball, 238° F. The professional confectioner is able to decide when syrup has boiled to the right temperature by sound while boiling, and by testing in cold water; these tests at first seem somewhat difficult to the amateur, but only a little experience is necessary to make fondant successfully. A sugar thermometer is often employed, and proves valuable, as by its use one need not exercise his judgment.  
   White Fondant. 

  2 1/2 lbs.  sugar.  
 1 1/2 cups  hot water.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Put ingredients into a smooth  granite stewpan.  Stir, place on range, and heat gradually to boiling point. Boil without stirring until, when tried in  cold water,  a soft ball may be formed that will just keep in shape, which is 238° F. After a few minutes' boiling,  sugar  will 
 
 

adhere to sides of kettle; this should be washed off with the hand first dipped in  cold water.  Have a pan of  cold water  near at hand, dip pan in  cold water,  then quickly wash off a small part of the  sugar  with tips of fingers, and repeat until all  sugar  adhering to side of saucepan is removed. If this is quickly done, there is no danger of burning the fingers. Pour slowly on a slightly oiled marble slab. Let stand a few minutes to cool, but not long enough to become hard around the edge. Scrape fondant with  chopping knife  to one end of marble, and work with a wooden spatula until white and creamy. It will quickly change from this consistency, and begin to lump, when it should be kneaded with the hands until perfectly smooth.  Put into a bowl, cover with oiled paper to exclude air, that a crust may not form on top, and let stand twenty-four hours. A large oiled platter and wooden spoon may be used in place of marble slab and spatula. Always make fondant on a clear day, as a damp, heavy atmosphere has an unfavorable effect on the boiling of  sugar.   

   Coffee Fondant. 

  2 1/2 lbs.  sugar.  
 1 1/2 cups  cold water.  
 1/4 cup  ground coffee.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Put  water  and  coffee  in saucepan, and heat to boiling point. Strain through double  cheese cloth;  then add  sugar  and  cream of tartar.  Boil and work same as White Fondant.  

   Maple Fondant. 

  1 1/4 lbs.  maple sugar.  
 1 1/4 lbs.  sugar.  
 1 cup  hot water.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Break  maple sugar  in pieces, and add to remaining ingredients. Boil and work same as White Fondant.  

   Bonbons. 

The centres of bonbons are made of  fondant  shaped in small balls. If  White Fondant  is used, flavor as desired,-- vanilla  being usually preferred. For  cocoanut  
 
 

centres, work as much shredded  cocoanut  as possible into a small quantity of fondant; for  nut  centres, surround pieces of  nut meat  with fondant, using just enough to cover.  French candied cherries  are often used in this way. Allow balls to stand over night, and dip the following day.  

   To Dip Bonbons. 

Put  fondant  in saucepan, and melt over  hot water;  color and flavor as desired. In coloring fondant, dip a small wooden  skewer  in  coloring paste,  take up a small quantity, and dip  skewer  in fondant. If care is not taken, the color is apt to be too intense. During dipping, keep fondant over  hot water  that it may be kept of right consistency. For dipping, use a two-tined fork or confectioners'  bonbon dipper.  Drop centres in fondant one at a time, stir until covered, remove from fondant, put on oiled paper, and bring end of  dipper  over the top of bonbon, thus leaving a tail-piece which shows that bonbons have been hand dipped. Stir fondant between dippings to prevent a crust from forming.  

   Cream Mints. 

Melt  fondant  over  hot water,  flavor with a few drops of  oil of peppermint, wintergreen, clove, cinnamon, or orange,  and color if desired. Drop from tip of spoon on oiled paper. Confectioners use rubber moulds for shaping cream mints; but these are expensive for home use, unless one is to make mints in large quantities.  

   Cream Nut Bars. 

Melt  fondant  and flavor, stir in any kind of  nut meat,  cut in pieces. Turn in an oiled pan, cool, and cut in bars with a sharp knife. Maple Fondant is delicious with  nuts.   

   Dipped Walnuts. 

Melt  fondant  and flavor. Dip  halves of walnuts  as bonbon centres are dipped.  Halves of pecan  or whole blanched  almonds  may be similarly dipped.  

 

   Tutti-Frutti Candy. 

Fill an oiled  border-mould  with three layers of melted  fondant.  Have bottom layer  maple,  well mixed with  English walnut meat;  the second layer colored pink, flavored with  rose,  and mixed with  candied cherries  cut in quarters and  figs  finely chopped; the third layer white, flavored with  vanilla,  mixed with  nuts,   candied cherries  cut in quarters, and  candied pineapple  cut in small pieces. Cover mould with oiled paper, and let stand over night. Remove from mould, and place on a plate covered with a lace paper napkin. Fill centre with  Bonbons  and  Glacé Nuts.   

   Glacé Nuts. 

  2 cups  sugar.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1/8 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan, stir, place on range, and heat to boiling point. Boil without stirring until syrup begins to discolor, which is 310° F. Wash off  sugar  which adheres to sides of saucepan as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire, and place in larger pan of  cold water  to instantly stop boiling. Remove from  cold water  and place in a saucepan of  hot water  during dipping. Take  nuts  separately on a long pin, dip in syrup to cover, remove from syrup, and place on oiled paper.  

   Glacé Fruits. 

For Glacé Fruits,  grapes,   strawberries,  sections of  mandarins  and  oranges,  and  candied cherries  are most commonly used. Take  grapes  separately from clusters, leaving a short stem on each  grape.  Dip in  syrup made as for Glacé Nuts,  holding by stem with pincers. Remove to oiled paper. Glacé fruits keep but a day, and should only be attempted in cold and clear weather.  

 

   Spun Sugar. 

  2 lbs.  sugar.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 1/4 teaspoon  cream of tartar.  
 
  Put ingredients in a smooth saucepan. Boil without stirring until syrup begins to discolor, which is 310° F. Wash off  sugar  which adheres to sides of saucepan as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire, and place in a larger pan of  cold water  to instantly stop boiling. Remove from  cold water,  and place in saucepan of  hot water.  Place two broomstick-handles over backs of chairs, and spread paper on the floor under them. When syrup is slightly cooled, put  dipper  in syrup, remove from syrup, and shake quickly back and forth over broom-handles. Carefully take off spun  sugar  as soon as formed, and shape in nests or pile lightly on a cold dish.  Syrup  may be colored if desired. Spun Sugar is served around bricks or moulds of  frozen creams and ices.    Dippers  for spinning sugar are made of coarse wires; about twenty wires, ten inches long, are put in a bundle, and fastened with wire coiled round and round to form a handle.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 SANDWICHES AND CANAPéS. 
 IN preparing bread for sandwiches, cut slices as thinly as possible, and remove crusts. If butter is used, cream the butter, and spread bread before cutting from loaf. Spread half the slices with mixture to be used for filling, cover with remaining pieces, and cut in squares, oblongs, or triangles. If sandwiches are shaped with round or fancy cutters, bread should be shaped before spreading, that there may be no waste of butter. Sandwiches which are prepared several hours before serving-time may be kept fresh and moist by wrapping in a napkin wrung as dry as possible out of hot water, and keeping in a cool place.  Paraffine paper  is often used for the same purpose. Bread for sandwiches cuts better when a day old. Serve sandwiches piled on a plate covered with a doily. 
   Rolled Bread. 

Cut fresh  bread,  while still warm, in as thin slices as possible, using a very sharp knife. Spread evenly with  butter  which has been creamed. Roll slices separately, and tie each with baby ribbon.  

   Bread and Butter Folds. 

Remove end slice from  bread.  Spread end of loaf sparingly and evenly with  butter  which has been creamed. Cut off as thin a slice as possible. Repeat until the number of slices required are prepared. Remove crusts, put together in pairs, and cut in squares, oblongs, or triangles. Use  white, entire wheat, Graham, or brown bread.   

 

   Lettuce Sandwiches. 

Put fresh, crisp  lettuce leaves,  washed and thoroughly dried, between thin slices of  buttered bread  prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds, having a teaspoon of  Mayonnaise  on each leaf.  

   Egg Sandwiches. 

Chop finely the  whites of hard boiled eggs;  force the  yolks  through a strainer or  potato ricer.  Mix  yolks  and  whites,  season with  salt  and  pepper,  and moisten with  Mayonnaise  or  Cream Salad Dressing.  Spread mixture between thin slices of  buttered bread  prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.  

   Sardine Sandwiches. 

Remove skin and bones from  sardines,  and mash to a paste. Add to an equal quantity of  yolks of hard boiled eggs  rubbed through a sieve. Season with  salt,   cayenne,  and a few drops of  lemon juice;  moisten with  olive oil  or  melted butter.  Spread mixture between thin slices of  buttered bread  prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.  

   Sliced Ham Sandwiches. 

Slice  cold boiled ham  as thinly as possible. Put between thin slices of  buttered bread  prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.  

   Chopped Ham Sandwiches. 

Finely chop  cold boiled ham,  and moisten with  Sauce Tartare.  Spread between thin slices of  buttered bread  prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.  

   Anchovy Sandwiches. 

Rub the  yolks of hard boiled eggs  to a paste. Moisten with soft  butter  and season with  Anchovy essence.  Spread mixture between thin slices of  buttered bread  prepared as for Bread and Butter Folds.  

 

   Chicken Sandwiches. 

Chop  cold boiled chicken,  and moisten with  Mayonnaise  or  Cream Salad Dressing;  or season with  salt  and  pepper,  and moisten with  rich chicken stock.  Prepare as other sandwiches.  

   Lobster Sandwiches. 

Remove  lobster meat  from shell, and chop. Season with  salt,   cayenne,   made mustard,  and  lemon juice;  or moisten with any  salad dressing.  Spread mixture on a crisp  lettuce leaf,  and prepare as other sandwiches.  

   Oyster Sandwiches. 

Arrange fried  oysters  on crisp  lettuce leaves,  allowing two  oysters  for each leaf, and one leaf for each sandwich. Prepare as other sandwiches.  

   Nut and Cheese Sandwiches. 

Mix equal parts of grated  Gruyère cheese  and chopped  English walnut meat;  then season with  salt  and  cayenne.  Prepare as other sandwiches.  

   Ginger Sandwiches. 

Cut  preserved Canton ginger  in very thin slices. Prepare as other sandwiches.  

   Fruit Sandwiches. 

Remove stems and finely chop  figs;  add a small quantity of  water,  cook in  double boiler  until a paste is formed, then add a few drops of  lemon juice.  Cool mixture and spread on thin slices of  buttered bread;  sprinkle with finely chopped  peanuts  and cover with pieces of  buttered bread.   

   Brown Bread Sandwiches. 

 Brown Bread  to be used for sandwiches is best steamed in one-pound baking-powder boxes. Spread and cut 
 
 

 bread  as for other sandwiches. Put between layers finely chopped  peanuts  seasoned with  salt;  or  grated cheese  mixed with chopped  English walnut meat  and seasoned with  salt.   

   Russian Sandwiches. 

Spread  zephyrettes  with thin slices of  Neufchatel cheese,  cover with finely chopped  olives  moistened with  Mayonnaise Dressing.  Place a zephyrette over each and press together.  

   Jelly Sandwiches. 

Spread  zephyrettes  with  quince jelly  and sprinkle with chopped  English walnut meat.  Place a zephyrette over each and press together.  

   Cheese Wafers. 

Sprinkle  zephyrettes  with  grated cheese  mixed with a few grains of  cayenne.  Put on a sheet and bake until the  cheese  melts.  

 
 Canapés. 
 Canapés are made by cutting bread in slices one-fourth inch thick, and cutting slices in  s four inches long by one and one-half inches wide, or in circular pieces. Then bread is toasted, fried in deep fat, or buttered and browned in the oven, and covered with a seasoned mixture of eggs, cheese, fish, or meat, separately or in combination. Canapés are served hot or cold, and used in place of oysters at a dinner or luncheon. At a gentlemen's dinner they are served with a glass of sherry before entering the dining-room. 
   Cheese Canapés I. 

Toast circular pieces of  bread,  sprinkle with a thick layer of  grated cheese,  seasoned with  salt  and  cayenne.  Place on a tin sheet and bake until  cheese  is melted. Serve at once.  

 

   Cheese Canapés II. 

Spread circular pieces of  toasted bread  with  French Mustard,  then proceed as for Cheese Canapés I.  

   Sardine Canapés. 

Spread circular pieces of  toasted bread  with  sardines  (from which bones have been removed) rubbed to a paste, with a small quantity of creamed  butter  and seasoned with  Worcestershire Sauce  and a few grains  cayenne.  Place in the centre of each a stuffed  olive,  made by removing stone and filling cavity with sardine mixture. Around each arrange a border of the finely chopped  whites of hard boiled eggs.   

   Anchovy Canapés. 

Spread circular pieces of  toasted bread  with  Anchovy Butter.  Chop separately  yolks and whites of hard boiled eggs.  Cover canapés by quarters with  egg,  alternating  yolks  and  whites.  Divide  yolks  from  whites  with  anchovies  split in two lengthwise, and pipe around a border of  Anchovy Butter,  using a pastry bag and tube.  

   Canapés Lorenzo. 

Toast slices of  bread  cut in shape of horseshoes, cream two tablespoons  butter,  and add one teaspoon  white of egg.  Spread rounding with  Crab Mixture,  cover with creamed  butter,  sprinkle with  cheese,  and brown in the oven. Serve on a napkin, ends toward centre of dish, and garnish with  parsley.   

   Crab Mixture. 

Finely chop  crab meat,  season with  salt,   cayenne,  and a few drops of  lemon juice,  then moisten with  Thick White Sauce.    Lobster meat  may be used in place of crab meat.   

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 RECIPES FOR THE CHAFING-DISH. 
 THE  chafing-dish,  which, within the last few years, has gained so much favor, is by no means a utensil of modern invention, as its history may be traced to the time of Louis XIV. It finds its place on the breakfast table, when the eggs may be cooked to suit the most fastidious; on the luncheon table, when a dainty hot dish may be prepared to serve in place of the so-oft-seen cold meat; but it is made of greatest use for the cooking of late suppers, and always seems to accompany hospitality and good cheer.  It is appreciated and enjoyed by the housekeeper who does her own work, or has but one maid, as well as by the society girl who, by its use, first gains a taste for the art of cooking. The simple tin  chafing-dishes  may be bought for as small a sum as ninety cents, while the elaborate silver ones command as high a price as one hundred dollars. Very attractive dishes are made of  granite ware,  nickel, or copper. The latest patterns have the lamp with a screw adjustment to regulate the flame, and a metal tray on which to set dish, that it may be moved if necessary while hot, without danger of burnt fingers, and that it may not injure the polished table.  A  chafing-dish  has two pans, the under one for holding hot water, the upper one with long handle for holding food to be cooked. A  blazer  differs from a  chafing-dish,  inasmuch as it has no hot-water pan.  Wood alcohol, which is much lower in price than high-proof spirits, is generally used in  chafing-dishes.   
 
 

 The  Davy Toaster  may be used over the  chafing-dish  for toasting bread and broiling.  List of dishes previously given that may be prepared on the  Chafing-Dish: -- 
  German Toast. 
 Dropped Eggs. 
 Eggs à la Finnoise. 
 Eggs à la Suisse. 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce. 
 Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast. 
 Buttered Eggs. 
 Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes. 
 Curried Eggs. 
 French Omelet. 
 Spanish Omelet. 
 Creamed Fish. 
 Halibut à la Rarebit. 
 Creamed Oysters. 
 Buttered Lobster. 
 Creamed Lobster. 
 Broiled Meat Cakes. 
 Salmi of Lamb. 
 Creamed Sweetbreads. 
 Sautéd Sweetbreads. 
 Chickens' Livers with Madeira Sauce. 
 Chickens' Livers with Curry. 
 Sautéd Chickens' Livers. 
 Creamed Chicken. 
 Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole. 
 Stewed Mushrooms. 
 Sautéd Mushrooms. 
 Mushrooms à la Sabine. 
 Soufflé au Rhumm. 
 
   Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads. 

  4  eggs.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/8 teaspoon  pepper.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1  sweetbread  parboiled and cut in dice. 
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly with silver folk, add  salt,   pepper,   milk,  and  sweetbread.  Put  butter  in hot  chafing-dish;  when melted, pour in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of pan.  

   Scrambled Eggs with Calf's Brains. 

Follow recipe for Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads, using  calf's brains  in place of sweetbreads.>  

   To Prepare Calf's Brains. 

Soak one hour in  cold water  to cover. Remove membrane, and parboil twenty 
 
 

minutes in  boiling, salted, acidulated water.  Drain, put in  cold water;  as soon as cold, drain again, and separate in small pieces.  

   Cheese Omelet. 

  2  eggs.  
 1 tablespoon  melted butter.  
 1/8 tablespoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 tablespoon  grated cheese.  
 
  Beat  eggs  slightly, add one-half teaspoon  melted butter,   salt,   cayenne,  and  cheese.  Melt remaining  butter,  add mixture, and cook until firm, without stirring. Roll, and sprinkle with  grated cheese.   

   Eggs au Beurre Noir. 

   Butter.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
 4  eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  vinegar.  
 
  Put one tablespoon  butter  in a hot  chafing-dish;  when melted, slip in carefully four  eggs,  one at a time. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and cook until  whites  are firm. Remove to a hot platter, care being taken not to break  yolks.  In same dish brown two tablespoons  butter,  add  vinegar,  and pour over  eggs.   

   Eggs à la Caracas. 

  2 oz. smoked  dried beef.  
 1 cup  tomatoes.  
 1/4 cup  grated cheese.  
 Few drops  onion juice.  
 Few grains  cinnamon.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 3  eggs.  
 
  Pick over  beef  and chop finely, add  tomatoes,   cheese,   onion juice,   cinnamon,  and  cayenne.  Melt  butter,  add mixture, and when heated, add  eggs  well beaten. Cook until  eggs  are of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of pan.  

 

   Union Grill. 

Clean one pint of  oysters  and drain off all the liquor possible. Put  oysters  in  chafing-dish,  and as liquor flows from  oysters,  remove with a spoon, and so continue until  oysters  are plump. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and add two tablespoons  butter.  Serve on  zephyrettes.   

   Oysters à la D'Uxelles. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 2 tablespoons chopped  mushrooms.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/2 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1  egg yolk.  
 1 tablespoon  sherry wine.  
 
  Clean  oysters,  heat to boiling point, and drain. Reserve liquor and strain through  cheese cloth;  there should be three-fourths cup. Cook  butter  and  mushrooms  five minutes, add  flour,  and  oyster liquor  gradually; then cook three minutes. Add seasonings,  oysters,   egg,  and  sherry.  Serve on pieces of  toasted bread  or  zephyrettes.   

   Oysters à la Thorndike. 

  1 pint  oysters.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 1/4 cup  thin cream.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 
  Clean and drain  oysters.  Melt  butter,  add  oysters,  and cook until plump. Then add seasonings,  cream,  and  egg yolks.  Cook until sauce is slightly thickened. Serve on  zephyrettes.   

   Lobster à la Delmonico. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 3/4 tablespoons  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 1 cup  thin cream.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
 
  Remove  lobster meat  from shell and cut in small cubes. Melt  butter,  add  flour,  seasonings, and  cream,  gradually. Add  lobster,  and when heated, add  egg yolks  and  wine.   

 

   Lobster à la Newburg. 

  2 lb.  lobster.  
 1/4 cup  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 Slight grating  nutmeg.  
 1 tablespoon  sherry.  
 1 tablespoon  brandy.  
 1/3 cup  thin cream.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 
  Remove  lobster meat  from shell and cut in slices. Melt  butter,  add  lobster,  and cook three minutes. Add seasonings and  wine,  cook one minute, then add  cream  and  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten. Stir until thickened. Serve with  toast  or  Puff Paste Points.   

   Clams à la Newburg. 

  1 pint  clams.  
   tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 3 tablespoons  sherry  or  Madeira wine.  
 1/2 cup  thin cream.  
  Yolks 3 eggs.  
 
  Clean  clams,  remove soft parts, and finely chop hard parts. Melt  butter,  add chopped  clams,  seasonings, and  wine.  Cook eight minutes, add soft part of  clams,  and  cream.  Cook two minutes, then add  egg yolks  slightly beaten, diluted with some of the hot sauce.  

   Shrimps à la Newburg. 

  1 pint  shrimps.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 1 teaspoon  flour.  
 1/2 cup  cream.  
  Yolks 2 eggs.  
 2 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
 
  Clean shrimps and cook three minutes in two tablespoons  butter.  Add  salt,   cayenne,  and  lemon juice,  and cook one minute. Remove shrimps, and put remaining  butter  in  chafing-dish,  add  flour  and  cream;  when thickened, add  yolks of eggs  slightly beaten, shrimps, and  wine.  Serve with  toast  or Puff  Paste  Points.  

 

   Fish à la Provençale. 

  1/4 cup  butter.  
 2 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 2 cups  milk.  
  Yolks 4 hard boiled eggs.  
 1 teaspoon  Anchovy essence.  
 2 cups  cold boiled flaked fish.  
 
  Make a sauce of  butter,   flour,  and  milk.  Mash  yolks of eggs  and mix with  Anchovy essence,  add to sauce, then add  fish.  Serve as soon as heated.  

   Grilled Sardines. 

Drain twelve  sardines  and cook in a  chafing-dish  until heated, turning frequently. Place on small oblong pieces of  dry toast,  and serve with  Maître d' Hôtel or Lemon Butter.   

   Sardines with Anchovy Sauce. 

Drain twelve  sardines  and cook in a  chafing-dish  until heated, turning frequently. Remove from  chafing-dish.  Make one cup  Brown Sauce  with one and one-half tablespoons sardine  oil,  two tablespoons  flour,  and one cup  Brown Stock.  Season with  Anchovy essence.  Reheat sardines in sauce. Serve with  Brown Bread Sandwiches,  having a slice of  cucumber  marinated with  French Dressing  between slices of  bread.   

   Welsh Rarebit I. 

  1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1 teaspoon  corn-starch.  
 1/2 cup  thin cream.  
 1/2 lb.  mild soft cheese  cut in small pieces. 
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mustard.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Toast  or  zephyrettes.  
 
  Melt  butter,  add  corn-starch,  stir until well mixed, then add  cream  gradually and cook two minutes. Add  cheese,  and stir until  cheese  is melted. Season, and serve on zephyrettes or  bread  toasted on one side, rarebit being poured over untoasted side.  

 

   Welsh Rarebit II. 

  1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/2 lb.  mild soft  cheese.   cut in small pieces. 
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1/4 teaspoon  mustard.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/3 to 1/2 cup  ale  or  lager beer.  
 1  egg.  
 
  Put  butter  in  chafing-dish,  and when melted, add  cheese  and seasonings; as  cheese  melts, add  ale  gradually; then  egg  slightly beaten. Serve as Welsh Rarebit I.  

   Oyster Rarebit. 

  1 cup  oysters.  
 2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1/2 lb.  soft mild  cheese.   cut in small pieces. 
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 2  eggs.  
 
  Clean, parboil, and drain  oysters,  reserving liquor; then remove and discard tough muscle. Melt  butter,  add  cheese  and seasonings; as  cheese  melts, add gradually  oyster liquor,  and  eggs  slightly beaten. As soon as mixture is smooth, add soft part of  oysters.   

   English Monkey. 

  1 cup  stale bread crumbs.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/2 cup  soft mild cheese  cut in small pieces. 
 1  egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Soak  bread crumbs  fifteen minutes in  milk.  Melt  butter,  add  cheese,  and when  cheese  has melted, add soaked  crumbs,   egg  slightly beaten, and seasonings. Cook three minutes, and pour over  toasted crackers.   

   Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce. 

Cut  cold boiled corned tongue  in slices one-third inch thick. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dip in  egg  and  crumbs,  and sauté in  butter.  Serve with  Tomato Sauce I.   

 

   Scotch Woodcock. 

  4  hard boiled eggs.  
 3 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  flour.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Anchovy essence.  
 
  Make a thin white sauce of  butter,   flour,   milk,  and seasonings; add  eggs  finely chopped, and season with  Anchovy essence.  Serve as Welsh Rarebit I.  

   Shredded Ham with Currant Jelly Sauce. 

  1/2 tablespoon  butter.  
 1/3 cup  currant jelly.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 1/4 cup  sherry wine.  
 1 cup  cold cooked ham  cut in small  s. 
 
  Put  butter  and  currant jelly  into the  chafing-dish.  As soon as melted, add  cayenne,   wine,  and  ham;  simmer five minutes.  

   Venison Cutlets with Apples. 

Wipe, core, and cut four  apples  in one-fourth inch slices. Sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  and add one-third cup  port wine;  cover, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, and sauté in  butter.  Cut a slice of  venison  one-half inch thick in cutlets. Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  and cook three or four minutes in a hot  chafing-dish,  using just enough  butter  to prevent sticking. Remove from dish; then melt three tablespoons  butter,  add  wine  drained from  apples,  and twelve  candied cherries  cut in halves. Reheat cutlets in  sauce,  and serve with  apples.   

   Mutton with Currant Jelly Sauce. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
   tablespoons  flour.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 1 cup  Brown Stock.  
 1/3 cup  currant jelly.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  sherry wine.  
 6 slices  cold cooked mutton.  
 
  Brown the  butter,  add  flour,  seasonings, and stock, gradually; then add  jelly,  and when melted, add  mutton.  When meat is heated, add  wine.  If  mutton gravy  is at hand, use instead of making a Brown Sauce.  

 

   Minced Mutton. 

  2 cups chopped  cooked mutton.  
  Yolks 6 hard boiled eggs.  
 3/4 teaspoon  mixed mustard.  
  Salt.  
  Cayenne.  
 1 cup of  cream.  
 1/4 cup  wine.  
 
  Mash the  yolks,  and season with  mustard,   salt,  and  cayenne.  Add  cream  and  mutton.  When thoroughly heated, add  wine.  Serve on  toast.   

   Devilled Bones. 

  2 tablespoons  butter.  
 1 tablespoon  Chili sauce.  
 1 tablespoon  Worcestershire sauce.  
 1 tablespoon  Walnut Catsup.  
 1 teaspoon  made mustard.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
  Drumsticks, second joints, and wings of a cooked chicken.  
  Salt.  
  Pepper.  
  Flour.  
 1/2 cup  hot stock.  
 Finely chopped  parsley.  
 
  Melt  butter,  and add  Chili Sauce,   Worcestershire sauce,   Walnut Catsup,   mustard,  and  cayenne.  Cut four small gashes in each piece of  chicken.  Sprinkle with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge with  flour,  and cook in the seasoned  butter  until well browned. Pour on stock, simmer five minutes, and sprinkle with chopped  parsley.   

   Devilled Almonds. 

  2 oz. blanched and shredded  almonds.  
  Butter.  
 1 tablespoon  Chutney.  
 2 tablespoons chopped  pickles.  
 1 tablespoon  Worcestershire sauce.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  cayenne.  
 
  Fry  almonds  until well browned, using enough  butter  to prevent  almonds  from burning. Mix remaining ingredients, pour over  nuts,  and serve as soon as thoroughly heated. Serve with  oysters.   

 

   Devilled Chestnuts. 

Shell one cup  chestnuts,  cut in thin slices, and fry until well browned, using enough  butter  to prevent  chestnuts  from burning. Season with  Tabasco Sauce  or few grains  paprika.   

   Fruit Canapés. 

Make  German Toast  in circular pieces, cover with  stewed prunes,   figs,  or  jam.  Serve with  Cream Sauce I.   

   Peach Canapés. 

Sauté circular pieces of  sponge cake  in  butter  until delicately browned. Drain canned  peaches,  sprinkle with  powdered sugar,  few drops  lemon juice,  and slight grating  nutmeg.  Melt one tablespoon  butter,  add  peaches,  and when heated, serve on cake.  

   Fig Cups. 

  1/2 lb. washed  figs.  
 Chopped  salted almonds.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 teaspoon  lemon juice.  
 1/2 cup  wine.  
 
  Stuff  figs  with  almonds.  Put  sugar,   lemon juice,  and  wine  in  chafing-dish;  when heated add  figs,  cover, and cook until  figs  are tender, turning and basting often. Serve with  Lady Fingers.   

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 COOKING, PRESERVING, AND CANNING FRUITS. 
 FRUITS are usually at their best when served ripe and in season; however, a few cannot be taken in their raw state, and still others are rendered more easy of digestion by cooking. The methods employed are stewing and baking. Fruit should be cooked in earthen or  granite ware  utensils, and silver or wooden spoons should be employed for stirring. It must be remembered that all fruits contain one or more acids, and when exposed to air and brought in contact with an iron or tin surface, a poisonous compound may be formed. 
   Baked Apples. 

Wipe and core  sour apples.  Put in a baking-dish, and fill cavities with  sugar  and  spice.  Allow one-half cup  sugar  and one-fourth teaspoon  cinnamon  or  nutmeg  to eight  apples.  If  nutmeg  is used, a few drops  lemon juice  and few gratings from  rind of lemon  to each  apple  is an improvement. Cover bottom of dish with  boiling water,  and bake in a hot oven until soft, basting often with syrup in dish. Serve hot or cold with  cream.  Many prefer to pare  apples  before baking. When this is done, core before paring, that fruit may keep in shape. In the fall, when  apples  are at their best, do not add  spices  to  apples,  as their flavor cannot be improved; but towards spring they become somewhat tasteless, and  spice  is an improvement.  

 

   Baked Sweet Apples. 

Wipe and core eight  sweet apples.  Put in a baking-dish, and fill cavities with  sugar,  allowing one-third cup, or sweeten with  molasses.  Add two-thirds cup  boiling water.  Cover, and bake three hours in a slow oven, adding more  water  if necessary.  

   Apple Sauce. 

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight  sour apples.  Make a syrup by boiling seven minutes one cup  sugar  and one cup  water  with thin shaving from  rind of a lemon.  Remove  lemon,  add enough  apples  to cover bottom of sauce-pan, watch carefully during cooking, and remove as soon as soft. Continue until all are cooked. Strain remaining syrup over  apples.   

   Spiced Apple Sauce. 

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight  sour apples.  Put in a saucepan, sprinkle with one cup  sugar,  add eight  cloves,  and enough  water  to prevent  apples  from burning. Cook to a mush, stirring occasionally.  

   Apple Ginger. 

Wipe, quarter, core, pare, and chop two and one-half pounds  sour apples.  Put in a  stewpan  and add one and one-half pounds  light brown sugar,   juice and rind of one and one-half lemons,  one-half ounce  ginger root,  and enough  water  to prevent  apples  from burning. Cover, and cook slowly four hours, adding  water  as necessary. Apple Ginger may be kept for several weeks.  

   Apple Porcupine. 

Make a syrup by boiling eight minutes one and one-half cups  sugar  and one and one-half cups  water.  Wipe, core, and pare eight  apples.  Put  apples  in syrup as soon as pared, that they may not discolor. Cook until soft, 
 
 

occasionally skimming syrup during cooking.  Apples  cook better covered with the syrup; therefore it is better to use a deep saucepan and have two cookings. Drain  apples  from syrup, cool, fill cavities with  jelly,   marmalade,  or  preserved fruit,  and stick  apples  with  almonds  blanched and split in halves lengthwise. Serve with  Cream Sauce I.   

   Baked Bananas. 

Remove skins from six  bananas  and cut in halves lengthwise. Put in a shallow  granite pan  or on an old platter. Mix two tablespoons  melted butter,  one-third cup  sugar,  and two tablespoons  lemon juice.  Baste  bananas  with one-half the mixture. Bake twenty minutes in a slow oven, basting during baking with remaining mixture.  

   Sautéd Bananas. 

Remove skins from  bananas,  cut in halves lengthwise, and again cut in halves crosswise. Dredge with  flour,  and sauté in  clarified butter.  Drain, and sprinkle with  powdered sugar.   

   Baked Peaches. 

Peel, cut in halves, and remove stones from six  peaches.  Place in a shallow  granite pan.  Fill each cavity with one teaspoon  sugar,  one-half teaspoon  butter,  few drops  lemon juice,  and a slight grating  nutmeg.  Cook twenty minutes, and serve on circular pieces of buttered  dry toast.   

   Baked Pears. 

Wipe, quarter, and core  pears.  Put in a deep  pudding-dish,  sprinkle with  sugar  or add a small quantity of  molasses,  then add  water  to prevent  pears  from burning. Cover, and cook two or three hours in a very slow oven. Small  pears  may be baked whole.  Seckel pears  are delicious when baked.  

 

   Baked Quinces. 

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare eight  quinces.  Put in a baking-dish, sprinkle with three-fourths cup  sugar,  add one and one-half cups  water,  cover, and cook until soft in a slow oven.  Quinces  require a long time for cooking.  

   Cranberry Sauce. 

Pick over and wash three cups  cranberries.  Put in a  stewpan,  add one and one-fourth cups  sugar  and one cup  boiling water.  Cover, and boil ten minutes. Care must be taken that they do not boil over. Skim and cool.  

   Cranberry Jelly. 

Pick over and wash four cups  cranberries.  Put in a  stewpan  with one cup  boiling water,  and boil twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add two cups  sugar,  and cook five minutes. Turn into a mould or glasses.  

   Stewed Prunes. 

Wash and pick over  prunes.  Put in a saucepan, cover with  cold water,  and soak two hours; then cook until soft in same  water.  When nearly cooked, add  sugar  or  molasses  to sweeten. Many prefer the addition of a small quantity of  lemon juice.   

   Rhubarb Sauce. 

Peel and cut  rhubarb  in one-inch pieces. Put in a saucepan, sprinkle generously with  sugar,  and add enough  water  to prevent  rhubarb  from burning.  Rhubarb  contains such a large percentage of  water  that but little additional  water  is needed. Cook until soft. If  rhubarb  is covered with  boiling water,  allowed to stand five minutes, then drained and cooked, less  sugar  will be required.  Rhubarb  is sometimes baked in an earthen  pudding-dish.  If baked slowly for a long time it has a rich red color.  

  
 
 

 JELLIES. 
 Jellies are made of cooked fruit juice and sugar, in nearly all cases the proportions being equal. Where failures occur, they may usually be traced to the use of too ripe fruit. 
   To Prepare Glasses for Jelly. 

Wash glasses, and put in a kettle of  cold water;  place on range, and heat  water  gradually to boiling point. Remove glasses, and drain. Place glasses while filling on a cloth wrung out of  hot water.   

   To Cover Jelly Glasses. 

Cut  letter paper  in circular pieces to just fit in top of glasses. Dip in  brandy,  and cover jelly. Put on tin covers or circular pieces of paper cut larger than the glasses, and fastened securely over the edge with  mucilage.   

   To Make a Jelly Bag. 

Fold two opposite corners of a piece of  cotton and wool flannel  three-fourths yard long. Sew up in the form of a cornucopia, rounding at the end. Fell the seam to make more secure. Bind the top with tape, and furnish with two or three heavy loops by which it may be hung.  

   Apple Jelly. 

Wipe  apples,  remove stem and blossom ends, and cut in quarters. Put in a granite or porcelain-lined  preserving kettle,  and add  cold water  to come nearly to top of  apples.  Cover, and cook slowly until  apples  are soft; mash, and drain through a coarse sieve. Avoid squeezing  apples,  which makes jelly cloudy. Then allow  juice  to drip through a double thickness of  cheese cloth  or a  jelly bag.  Boil twenty minutes, and add an equal quantity of heated  sugar;  boil five minutes, skim, and turn in glasses. Put in a sunny window, and let stand twenty-four hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place.  Porter apples  make a delicious flavored  jelly.  If  apples  are pared, a much lighter jelly may be made.  Gravenstein apples  make a very spicy jelly.  

 

   To Heat Sugar. 

Put in a granite dish, place in oven, leaving oven door ajar, and stir occasionally.  

   Quince Jelly. 

Follow recipe for Apple Jelly, using  quinces  in place of apples, and removing seeds from fruit.  Quince parings  are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit being used for canning.  

   Crab Apple Jelly. 

Follow recipe for  Apple Jelly,  leaving  apples  whole instead of cutting in quarters.  

   Currant Jelly. 

 Currants  are in the best condition for making jelly between June twenty-eighth and July third, and should not be picked directly after a rain.  Cherry currants  make the best jelly. Equal proportions of  red and white currants  are considered desirable, and make a lighter colored jelly.  Pick over  currants,  but do not remove stems; wash and drain. Mash a few in the bottom of a  preserving kettle,  using a  wooden potato masher;  so continue until berries are used. Cook slowly until  currants  look white. Strain through a coarse strainer, then allow  juice  to drop through a double thickness of  cheese cloth  or a  jelly bag.  Measure, bring to boiling point, and boil five minutes; add an equal measure of heated  sugar,  boil three minutes, skim, and pour into glasses. Place in a sunny window, and let stand twenty-four hours. Cover, and keep in a cool, dry place.  

   Currant and Raspberry Jelly. 

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using equal parts of  currants  and  raspberries.   

 

   Blackberry Jelly. 

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using  blackberries  in place of currants.  

   Raspberry Jelly. 

Follow recipe for Currant Jelly, using  raspberries  in place of currants. Raspberry Jelly is the most critical to make, and should not be attempted if fruit is thoroughly ripe, or if it has been long picked.  

   Barberry Jelly. 

Barberry Jelly is firmer and of better color if made from fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are still green. Make same as Currant Jelly, allowing one cup  water  to one peck  barberries.   

   Grape Jelly. 

 Grapes  should be picked over, washed, and stems removed before putting into a  preserving kettle.  Heat to boiling point, mash, and boil thirty minutes; then proceed as for Currant Jelly.  Wild grapes  make the best jelly.  

   Green Grape Jelly. 

 Grapes  should be picked when just beginning to turn. Make same as Grape Jelly.  

   Venison Jelly. 

  1 peck  wild grapes.  
 1 quart  vinegar.  
  Whole cloves,   } 1/4 cup each. 
  Stick Cinnamon, } 
 6 pounds  sugar.  
 
  Put first four ingredients into a  preserving kettle,  heat slowly to the boiling point, and cook until  grapes  are soft. Strain through a double thickness of  cheese cloth  or a  jelly bag,  and boil liquid twenty minutes; then add  sugar  heated, and boil five minutes. Turn into glasses.  

 

   Damson Jelly. 

Wipe and pick over  damsons;  then prick several times with a large pin. Make same as  Currant Jelly,  using three-fourths as much  sugar  as  fruit juice.   

 
 
 JAMS. 
 Raspberries and blackberries are the fruits most often employed for making jams, and require equal weight of sugar and fruit. 
   Raspberry Jam. 

Pick over  raspberries.  Mash a few in the bottom of a  preserving kettle,  using a  wooden potato masher,  and so continue until the fruit is used. Heat slowly to boiling point, and add gradually an equal quantity of  heated sugar.  Cook slowly forty-five minutes. Put in a stone jar or  tumblers.   

   Blackberry Jam. 

Follow recipe for Raspberry Jam, using  blackberries  in place of raspberries.  

 
 
 MARMALADES. 
 Marmalades are made of the pulp and juice of fruits with sugar. 
   Grape Marmalade. 

Pick over, wash, drain, and remove stems from  grapes.  Separate pulp from skins. Put pulp in  preserving kettle.  Heat to boiling point, and cook slowly until seeds separate from pulp; then rub through a  hair sieve.  Return to kettle with skins, add an equal measure of  sugar,  and cook slowly thirty minutes, occasionally stirring to prevent burning. Put in a stone jar or  tumblers.   

   Quince Marmalade. 

Wipe  quinces,  remove blossom ends, cut in quarters, remove seeds; then cut in small pieces. Put into a  preserving kettle,  and add enough  water  to nearly cover. 
 
 

Cook slowly until soft. Rub through a  hair sieve,  and add three-fourths its measure of  heated sugar.  Cook slowly twenty minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Put in  tumblers.   

   Orange Marmalade. 

Select  sour, smooth-skinned oranges.  Weigh  oranges,  and allow three-fourths their weight in cut  sugar.  Remove peel from  oranges  in quarters. Cook peel until soft in enough  boiling water  to cover; drain, remove white part from peel by scraping it with a spoon. Cut thin yellow  rind  in  s, using a pair of scissors. This is more quickly accomplished by cutting through two or three pieces at a time. Divide  oranges  in sections, remove seeds and tough part of skin. Put into a  preserving kettle  and heat to boiling point, add  sugar  gradually, and cook slowly one hour; add  rind,  and cook one hour longer. Turn into glasses.  

   Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade. 

Remove peel in quarters from eight  oranges  and prepare as for Orange Marmalade. Divide  oranges  in sections, remove seeds and tough part of skin. Put into a  preserving kettle,  add five pounds  rhubarb,  skinned and cut in one-half inch pieces. Heat to boiling point, and boil one-half hour; then add four pounds cut  sugar  and cut  rind.  Cook slowly two hours. Turn into glasses.  

 
 
 CANNING AND PRESERVING. 
 Preserving fruit is cooking it with from three-fourths to its whole weight of sugar. By so doing, much of the natural flavor of the fruit is destroyed; therefore canning is usually preferred to preserving.  Canning fruit is preserving sterilized fruit in sterilized air-tight jars, the sugar being added to give sweetness. Fruits may be canned without sugar if perfectly sterilized, that is, freed from all germ life.  
 
 

   Directions for Canning. 

 Fruit  for canning should be fresh, firm, of good quality, and not over-ripe. If over-ripe, some of the spores may survive the boiling, then fermentation will take place in a short time.  For canning fruit, allow one third its weight in  sugar,  and two and one-half to three cups  water  to each pound of  sugar,  Boil  sugar  and  water  ten minutes to make a thin syrup; then cook a small quantity of the fruit at a time in the syrup; by so doing, fruit may be kept in perfect shape. Hard  fruits  like  pineapple  and  quince  are cooked in  boiling water  until nearly soft, then put in syrup to finish cooking. Sterilized jars are then filled with fruit, and enough syrup added to overflow jars. If there is not sufficient syrup, add  boiling water,  as jars must be filled to overflow. Introduce a spoon between fruit and jar, that air bubbles may rise to the top and break; then quickly put on rubbers and screw on sterilized covers. Let stand until cold, again screw covers, being sure this time that jars are air tight. While filling jars place them on a cloth wrung out of hot water.  

   To Sterilize Jars. 

Wash jars and fill with  cold water.  Set in a kettle on a  trivet,  and surround with  cold water.  Heat gradually to boiling point, remove from  water,  empty, and fill while hot. Put covers in  hot water  and let stand five minutes. Dip rubber bands in  hot water,  but do not allow them to stand. New rubbers should be used each season, and care must be taken that rims of covers are not bent, as jars cannot then be hermetically sealed.  

   Canned Porter Apples. 

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare  Porter apples,  then weigh. Make a syrup by boiling for ten minutes one-third their weight in  sugar  with  water,  allowing two and one-half cups to each pound of  sugar.  Cook  apples  in 
 
 

syrup until soft, doing a few at a time. Fill jars, following Directions for Canning.  

   Canned Peaches. 

Wipe  peaches  and put in  boiling water,  allowing them to stand just long enough to easily loosen skins. Remove skins and cook fruit at once, that it may not discolor, following Directions for Canning. Some prefer to pare  peaches,  sprinkle with  sugar,  and let stand over night. In morning drain, add  water  to  fruit syrup,  bring to boiling point, and then cook fruit.  Peaches  may be cut in halves, or smaller pieces if desired.  

   Canned Pears. 

Wipe and pare fruit. Cook whole with stems left on, or remove stems, cut in quarters, and core. Follow Directions for Canning. A small piece of  ginger root  or a few slicings of  lemon rind  may be cooked with syrup.  Bartlett pears  are the best for canning.  

   Canned Pineapples. 

Remove skin and eyes from  pineapples;  then cut in half-inch slices, and slices in cubes, at the same time discarding the core. Follow Directions for Canning.  Pineapples  may be shredded and cooked in one-half their weight of  sugar  without  water,  and then put in jars. When put up in this way they are useful for the making of sherbets and fancy desserts.  

   Canned Quinces. 

Wipe, quarter, core, and pare  quinces.  Follow Directions for Canning.  Quinces  may be cooked with an equal weight of  sweet apples;  in this case use no extra  sugar  for  apples.   

   Canned Cherries. 

Use large  white or red cherries.  Wash, remove stems, then follow Directions for Canning.  

 

   Canned Huckleberries. 

Pick over and wash  berries,  then put in a  preserving kettle  with a small quantity of  water  to prevent berries from burning. Cook until soft and put in jars. No sugar is required, but a sprinkling of  salt  is an agreeable addition.  

   Canned Rhubarb. 

Pare  rhubarb  and cut in one-inch pieces. Pack in a jar, put under  cold water  faucet, and let  water  run twenty minutes, then screw on cover.  Rhubarb  canned in this way has often been known to keep a year.  

   Canned Tomatoes. 

Wipe  tomatoes,  cover with  boiling water,  and let stand until skins may be easily removed. Cut in pieces and cook until thoroughly scalded; skim often during cooking. Fill jars, following directions given.  

   Damson Preserves. 

Wipe  damsons,  and prick each fruit five or six times, using a large needle; then weigh. Make a syrup by boiling three-fourths their weight in  sugar  with  water,  allowing one cup to each pound of  sugar.  As soon as syrup reaches boiling point, skim, and add  plums,  a few at a time, that fruit may better keep in shape during cooking. Cook until soft. It is well to use two kettles, that work may be more quickly done, and syrup need not cook too long a time. Put into glass or stone jars.  

   Strawberry Preserves. 

Pick over, wash, drain, and hull  strawberries;  then weigh. Fill jars with berries. Make a  syrup  same as for Damson Preserve, cooking syrup fifteen minutes. Add syrup to fruit to overflow jars; let stand fifteen minutes, when fruit will have shrunk, and more fruit must be added to fill jars. Screw on covers, put in a kettle of  cold water,  heat  water  to boiling point, and keep just below boiling point one hour.     Raspberries  

may be preserved in the same way.   

 

   Pear Chips. 

  8 lbs.  pears.  
 4 lbs.  sugar.  
 1/4 lb.  Canton ginger.  
 4  lemons.  
 
  Wipe  pears,  remove stems, quarter, and core; then cut in small pieces. Add  sugar  and  ginger,  and let stand over night. In the morning add  lemons  cut in small pieces, rejecting seeds, and cook slowly three hours. Put into a stone jar.  

   Raspberry and Currant Preserve. 

  6 lbs.  currants.  
 6 lbs.  sugar.  
 8 quarts  raspberries.  
 
  Pick over, wash, and drain  currants.  Put into a  preserving kettle,  adding a few at a time, and mash. Cook one hour, strain through double thickness of  cheese cloth.  Return to kettle, add  sugar,  heat to boiling point, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Add one quart  raspberries  when syrup again reaches boiling point, skim out  raspberries,  put in jar, and repeat until  raspberries  are used. Fill jars to overflowing with syrup, and screw on tops.  

   Brandied Peaches. 

  1 peck  peaches.  
 Half their weight in  sugar.  
 1 quart high-proof  alcohol  or  brandy.  
 
  Remove skins from  peaches,  and put alternate layers of  peaches  and  sugar  in a stone jar; then add  alcohol.  Cover closely, having a heavy piece of cloth under cover of jar.  

   Tutti-Frutti. 

Put one pint  brandy  into a stone jar, add the various  fruits  as they come into market; to each quart of fruit add the same quantity of  sugar,  and stir the mixture each morning until all the fruit has been added.  Raspberries,   strawberries,   apricots,   peaches,   cherries,  and  pineapples  are the best to use.  

 

   Preserved Melon Rind. 

Pare and cut in  s the  rind of ripe melons.  Soak in  alum water  to cover, allowing two teaspoons powdered  alum  to each quart of  water.  Heat gradually to boiling point and cook slowly ten minutes. Drain, cover with  ice water,  and let stand two hours; again drain, and dry between towels. Weigh, allow one pound  sugar  to each pound of fruit, and one cup  water  to each pound of  sugar.  Boil  sugar  and  water  ten minutes. Add  melon rind,  and cook until tender. Remove  rind  to a stone jar, and cover with syrup. Two  lemons  cut in slices may be cooked ten minutes in the syrup.  

   Tomato Preserve. 

  1 lb.  yellow pear tomatoes.  
 1 lb.  sugar.  
 2 oz.  preserved Canton ginger.  
 2  lemons.  
 
  Peel  tomatoes,  cover with  sugar,  and let stand over night. In the morning pour off syrup and boil until quite thick; skim, then add  tomatoes,   ginger,  and  lemons  which have been sliced and the seeds removed. Cook until  tomatoes  have a clarified appearance.  

 
 
 PICKLING. 
 Pickling is preserving in any salt or acid liquor. 
   Spiced Currants. 

  7 lbs.  currants.  
 5 lbs.  brown sugar.  
 3 tablespoons  cinnamon.  
 3 tablespoons  clove.  
 1 pint  vinegar.  
 
  Pick over  currants,  wash, drain, and remove stems. Put in a  preserving kettle,  add  sugar,   vinegar,  and  spices  tied in a piece of muslin. Heat to boiling point, and cook slowly one and one-half hours.  

   Sweet Pickled Pears. 

Follow recipe for Sweet Pickled Peaches, using  pears  in place of peaches.  

 

   Sweet Pickled Peaches. 

  1/2 peck  peaches.  
 2 lbs.  brown sugar.  
 1 pint  vinegar.  
 1 oz.  stick cinnamon.  
  Cloves.  
 
  Boil  sugar,   vinegar,  and  cinnamon  twenty minutes. Dip  peaches  quickly in  hot water,  then rub off the fur with a towel. Stick each peach with four  cloves.  Put into syrup, and cook until soft, using one-half  peaches  at a time.  

   Chili Sauce. 

  12 medium-sized ripe  tomatoes.  
 1  pepper  finely chopped. 
 1  onion  finely chopped. 
 2 cups  vinegar.  
 3 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  clove.  
 2 teaspoons  cinnamon.  
 2 teaspoons  allspice.  
 2 teaspoons grated  nutmeg.  
 
  Peel  tomatoes  and slice. Put in a  preserving kettle  with remaining ingredients. Heat gradually to boiling point, and cook slowly two and one-half hours.  

   Ripe Tomato Pickle. 

  3 pints  tomatoes  peeled and chopped. 
 1 cup chopped  celery.  
 4 tablespoons chopped  red pepper.  
 4 tablespoons chopped  onion.  
 4 tablespoons  salt.  
 6 tablespoons  sugar.  
 6 tablespoons  mustard seed.  
 1/2 teaspoon  clove.  
 1/2 teaspoon  cinnamon.  
 1 teaspoon grated  nutmeg.  
 2 cups  vinegar.  
 
  Mix ingredients in order given. Put in a stone jar and cover. This uncooked mixture must stand a week before using, but may be kept a year.  

   Ripe Cucumber Pickle. 

Cut  cucumbers  in halves lengthwise. Cover with  alum water,  allowing two teaspoons powdered  alum  to each quart of  water.  Heat gradually to boiling point, then let stand on back of range two hours. Remove from  alum 
 
 

water  and chill in  ice water.  Make a syrup by boiling five minutes two pounds  sugar,  one pint  vinegar,  with two tablespoons each of  whole cloves  and  stick cinnamon  tied in a piece of muslin. Add  cucumbers  and cook ten minutes. Remove  cucumbers  to a stone jar and pour over the syrup. Scald syrup three successive mornings, and return to fruit.  

   Unripe Cucumber Pickles (Gherkins). 

Wipe four quarts small unripe  cucumbers.  Put in a stone jar and add one cup  salt  dissolved in two quarts  boiling water  and let stand three days. Drain  cucumbers  from  brine,  bring  brine  to boiling point, pour over  cucumbers,  and again let stand three days; repeat. Drain, wipe  cucumbers,  and pour over one gallon  boiling water  in which one tablespoon  alum  has been dissolved. Let stand six hours, then drain from  alum water.  Cook  cucumbers  ten minutes, a few at a time, in one-fourth the following mixture heated to the boiling point and boiled ten minutes:--  
  1 gallon  vinegar.  
 4  red peppers.  
 2 sticks  cinnamon.  
 2 tablespoons  allspice berries.  
 2 tablespoons  cloves.  
 
  Strain remaining liquor over  pickles  which have been put in a stone jar.  

   Chopped Pickles. 

  4 quarts chopped  green tomatoes.  
 3/4 cup  salt.  
 2 teaspoons  pepper.  
 3 teaspoons  mustard.  
 3 teaspoons  cinnamon.  
 3 teaspoons  allspice.  
 3 teaspoons  cloves.  
 1/2 cup  white mustard seed.  
 4  green peppers  sliced. 
 2 chopped  onions.  
 2 quarts  vinegar.  
 
  Add  salt  to  tomatoes,  let stand twenty-four hours, and drain. Add  spices  to  vinegar,  and heat to boiling point; then add  tomatoes,   peppers,  and  onions,  and cook fifteen minutes after boiling point is reached.  

 

   Spanish Pickles. 

  1 peck  green tomatoes  thinly sliced. 
 4  onions  thinly sliced. 
 1 cup  salt.  
 1/2 oz.  cloves.  
 1/2 oz.  allspice berries.  
 1/2 oz.  peppercorns.  
 1/2 cup  brown mustard seed.  
 1 lb.  brown sugar.  
 4  green peppers  finely chopped. 
  Cider vinegar.  
 
  Sprinkle alternate layers of  tomatoes  and  onions  with  salt,  and let stand over night. In the morning drain, and put in a  preserving kettle,  adding remaining ingredients, using enough  vinegar  to cover all. Heat gradually to boiling point and boil one-half hour.  

   Chow-Chow. 

  2 quarts small  green tomatoes.  
 12 small  cucumbers.  
 3  red peppers.  
 1  cauliflower.  
 2 bunches  celery.  
 1 pint small  onions.  
 2 quarts  string beans.  
 1/4 lb.  mustard seed.  
 2 oz.  turmeric.  
 1/2 oz.  allspice.  
 1/2 oz.  pepper.  
 1/2 oz.  clove.  
  Salt.  
 1 gallon  vinegar.  
 
  Prepare vegetables and cut in small pieces, cover with  salt,  let stand twenty-four hours, and drain. Heat  vinegar  and  spices  to boiling point, add vegetables, and cook until soft.  

   Pickled Onions. 

Peel small  white onions,  cover with  brine,  allowing one and one-half cups  salt  to two quarts  boiling water,  and let stand two days; drain, and cover with more  brine;  let stand two days, and again drain. Make more  brine  and heat to boiling point, put in  onions  and boil three minutes. Put in jars, interspersing with bits of  mace,   white peppercorns,   cloves,  bits of  bay leaf,  and slices of  red pepper.  Fill jars to overflow with  vinegar  scalded with  sugar,  allowing one cup  sugar  to one gallon  vinegar.  Cork while hot.  

 
 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 RECIPES ESPECIALLY PREPARED FOR THE SICK. 
 STATISTICS prove that two-thirds of all disease is brought about by error in diet. The correct proportions of food-principles have not been maintained, or the food has been improperly cooked. Physicians agree, with but few exceptions, that the proper preparation of food for the sick is of as great importance in the restoration to health as administration of drugs. Time and manner of serving are of equal importance.  Take especial care in setting an invalid's tray. Cover with a spotless tray-cloth or dinner napkin, folding the same, if it is larger than tray, that it may just come over edge. Avoid a fringed cloth, as the fringe is apt to prove annoying.  Select the daintiest china, finest glass, and choicest silver, making changes as often as possible. Cheer the patient with a bright blossom laid on tray, or a small vase of flowers placed in left hand corner. Place plate at front of tray, near the edge; knife at right of plate, with sharp edge toward plate; fork at left of plate, tines up; spoon at head of plate, or, if more convenient for the patient, at right of knife, bowl up; cup and saucer at right of plate, with handle arranged so that cup may be easily lifted;  tumbler  above knife, and filled two-thirds full of freshly drawn water just before taking into the sick-room. The individual butter, or bread and  butter plate,  should be placed at left hand corner over fork. The napkin may be placed at right of cup. Salt should appear, but pepper never. Avoid having too many things on the tray at one time. If soup, meat, and a light 
 
 

dessert are to be served to a convalescent, have one course removed before another appears. Foods which are intended to be served hot should be placed in heated dishes and kept covered during transit from kitchen, that patient may receive them hot. Equal care should be taken to have cold foods served cold; never lukewarm. A glass of milk, cup of gruel, or cup of beef-tea should be on a plate covered with a doily.  Never consult the patient as to his menu. If there is anything he especially desires, you will be informed. Anticipation often creates appetite. Serve in small quantities; the sight of too much food often destroys the appetite. If liquid diet must be adhered to, give as great variety as is allowable. If patient is restricted to milk diet, and milk is somewhat objectionable, it may be tolerated by serving in different ways,--such as Koumiss, Albumenized Milk, or by addition of Apollinaris, Seltzer water, or rennet.  After the completion of a meal, the tray should be removed at once from the sick-room. If any solid food remains, it should be burned, and liquids disposed of at once.   Liquid Foods  may first be considered. Barley water and rice water are known as astringent or demulcent drinks, and are generally used to reduce a laxative condition. The starch of barley is perhaps more valuable than that of rice. Toast water is often beneficial in cases of extreme nausea. A small quantity of clam water may be given when the stomach refuses to retain other foods. Clam water is also used to increase a secretion of mother's milk. 
   Oatmeal water  is occasionally ordered   for dyspeptic patients,  

but more frequently used for the workman on the road or the farmer in the field. In the hottest days of summer,  oatmeal water  may be drunk with safety where ice water would be extremely dangerous.  

   Fruit waters  are principally used for  fever 

patients. They are cooling, refreshing, and mildly stimulating, and 

are valuable for the salts and acids they contain.  Lemons,  being easily procured and of moderate price, are most extensively used.  

 Beef essence, which is the expressed juices of beef, being nutritious, is given when a condensed form of food is necessary. Many preparations of beef essence are on the market in the form of powder, paste, liquid, and tablets; some of which are valuable, but they are more expensive and not as nutritious as home-made essence, and patients are apt to quickly tire of them. One pound of beef cut from the top of the round will frequently yield four ounces of beef essence.  Beef tea contains the juices of beef diluted with water, and is given as a stimulant, rather than as a nutrient as is popularly supposed. It furnishes a pleasing variety to a liquid diet, and by its use a large quantity of water is ingested. If the color of beef is objectionable to a patient, serve in a colored glass.  Egg-nogs are recommended where it is necessary to take a large amount of nutriment daily, as is often the case when the system is much reduced by a severe illness.   Semi-solid Foods  comprise the gruels. When made from corn or oatmeal they are heat-producing, and should never be given when inflammatory symptoms are present. Imperial Granum makes a delicious gruel, which has largely superseded the more common kinds. It is quickly made, and unless expense must be considered is generally to be preferred. Although containing much starch, in the process of manufacture the starch has largely been converted into dextrine; therefore it may be given even when there is inflammation. Flour and cracker gruels to many prove a pleasant variety, and often assist in reducing a laxative condition. Arrowroot makes a delicate gruel, is more easily digested than any other form of starch, and is often valuable in cases of gastric irritation. It should never be given to infants.   Solid Foods  comprise the principal diet during convalescence. At this time the nurse shows her skill and judgment 
 
 

quite as much as during the critical part of the disease. Foods must be taken which are nutritious, easy of assimilation, and given frequently, in small quantities, and at regular intervals. The convalescent, if allowed to follow his own inclinations, often produces a relapse by improper diet. 
  It is often desirable to prepare  water ices and ice creams quickly and in small quantities for the sick. 

This may be easily accomplished by putting the mixture to be frozen in a small tin box (one-pound baking-powder can), placing box in  lard pail  and surrounding with  finely crushed ice  and  salt.  Cover pail; as  mixture  begins to freeze, scrape from sides and bottom of box and beat until smooth. Continue until of the desired consistency.  

   Barley Water. 

  3 tablespoons  barley.  
 4 cups  cold water.  
  Salt.  
  Lemon juice.  
  Sugar.  
 
  Pick over  barley  and soak in  water  over night, or for several hours. Boil gently one and one-half hours. Strain; season with  salt,   lemon juice,  and  sugar.  Reheat and serve.  

   Rice Water. 

  2 tablespoons  rice.  
 2 cups  cold water.  
  Milk  or  cream.  
  Salt.  
 
  Pick over  rice,  add to  water,  and boil until  rice  is tender; strain, and add to  rice water,   milk  or  cream  as desired. Season with  salt  and reheat. A half-inch piece of  stick cinnamon  may be cooked with  rice,  and will assist in reducing a laxative condition.  

   Oatmeal Water. 

  1 cup  fine oatmeal.  
 2 quarts  water  (which has been boiled and cooled). 
 
  Add  oatmeal  to  water,  and keep in a warm place (at temperature of 80° F.) one and one-half hours. Strain and cool.  

 

   Toast Water. 

  Equal measures of  stale bread toasted  and  boiling water.  
  Salt.  
 
  Cut  bread  in quarter-inch slices, put in a pan, and dry thoroughly in a slow oven until crisp and brown. Break in pieces, add  water,  and let stand one hour. Strain through  cheese cloth,  and season. Serve hot or cold.  

   Apple Water. 

  1 large  sour apple.  
 2 teaspoons  sugar.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 
  Wipe, core, and pare  apple.  Put  sugar  in the cavity. Bake until tender; mash, pour over  water,  let stand one-half hour, and strain.  

   Tamarind Water. 

  2 tablespoons  preserved tamarinds.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
  Sugar.  
 
  Pour  water  over  tamarinds;  stir until well mixed. Let stand twenty minutes and strain. Sweeten to taste.  

   Currant Water. 

  2 tablespoons  currant juice  or 
 2 teaspoons  currant jelly.  
 2/3 cup  cold water.  
  Sugar.  
 
  Mix  juice  and  water,  then sweeten; or beat  jelly  with a fork, dissolve in  water,  and if not sweet enough add  sugar.   

   Grape Juice. 

  1 1/2 cups  Concord grapes.  
 1 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  sugar.  
 
  Wash, pick over, and remove stems from  grapes;  add  water,  and cook one and one-half hours in a  double boiler.  Add  sugar,  and cook twenty minutes. Strain and cool.  

 

   Lemonade. 

  1 tablespoon  lemon juice.  
 2 tablespoons  syrup.  
  Water.  
 
  Make a syrup by boiling eight minutes one cup  water  and one-half cup  sugar.  To two tablespoons syrup add one tablespoon  lemon juice  and one-half cup  water.   Soda water,   Apollinaris,  or  Seltzer water  may be used.  

   Irish Moss Lemonade. 

  1/4 cup  Irish moss.  
 2 cups  cold water.  
  Juice 1 lemon.  
  Sugar.  
 
  Pick over and soak Irish moss in  cold water  to cover. Remove moss, add two cups  cold water,  and cook twenty minutes in  double boiler;  then strain. To one-half cup of liquid add  lemon juice,  and  sugar  to sweeten.  

   Flaxseed Lemonade. 

  1 tablespoon  whole flaxseed.  
 1 pint  boiling water.  
  Lemon juice.  
  Sugar.  
 
  Pick over and wash  flaxseed,  add  water,  and cook two hours, keeping just below boiling point. Strain, add  lemon juice,  and  sugar  to taste.  

   Orangeade. 

   Juice 1 orange.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  syrup.  
 2 tablespoons  crushed ice.  
 
  To  orange juice  add syrup (using less if orange is sweet), and pour over crushed ice. Make syrup as for Lemonade.  

   Sterilized Milk. 

Fill small-necked half-pint bottles to within one and one-half inches of the top with  milk;  cork with absorbent cotton. Stand in a  steamer  of  cold water,  having  water  
 
 

surround bottles to three-fourths their height. Allow  water  to heat gradually until nearly to boiling point, and keep at this temperature for ten minutes. When used for infants allow from a teaspoon to a tablespoon of  lime water  for each bottle of  milk.   

   Albumenized Milk. 

  1/2 cup  milk.  
  White 1 egg.  
 
  Put  white of egg  in a  tumbler,  add  milk,  cover tightly, and shake thoroughly until well mixed.  

   Koumiss. 

  1 quart  milk.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1/3  yeast cake  dissolved in 
 1 tablespoon  lukewarm water.  
 
  Heat  milk  until lukewarm; add  sugar  and dissolved  yeast cake.  Fill beer bottles within one and one-half inches of the top, cork and invert. The corks must be firmly tied down with strong twine. Let stand for six hours at a temperature of 80° F. Chill, and serve the following day.  

   Egg-nog I. 

  1  egg.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 2 tablespoons  wine  or 
 1 tablespoon  brandy.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 
  Beat  egg  slightly, add  salt,   sugar,  and  wine;  mix thoroughly, add  milk,  and strain.  Wine  may be omitted, and a slight grating  nutmeg  used.  

   Egg-nog II. 

   Yolk 1 egg.  
 1 tablespoon  sugar.  
 Few grains  salt.  
 2 tablespoons  wine  or 
 1 tablespoon  brandy.  
 2/3 cup  milk.  
  White 1 egg.  
 
  Beat  yolk of egg,  add  sugar,   salt,   wine,  and  milk.  Strain, and add beaten  white of egg.  Stir well before serving.  

 

   Egg-nog III. or Hot Water Egg-nog. 

Make like Egg-nog I., using one-half cup  hot water  in place of milk.  

   Wine Whey. 

  1 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  sherry  or  port wine.  
 
  Scald  milk,  add  wine,  and let stand five minutes. By this time the curd should have separated from whey. Strain and serve, or heat before serving.  

   Milk Punch. 

  1/2 cup  milk.  
 1 tablespoon  whiskey,   rum,  or  brandy.  
  Sugar.  
 Few gratings  nutmeg.  
 
  Mix ingredients, cover, and shake well.  

   Entire Wheat Coffee. 

  2 teaspoons  Wheat Coffee.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1 teaspoon  cold water.  
 
  Add  boiling water  to  coffee  and boil three minutes, then add  cold water  and let stand one minute to settle. Serve with  cut sugar  and  scalded milk.   

   Phillips' Cocoa. 

  4 teaspoons  cocoa.  
  cold water.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 1 cup  scalded milk.  
 
  Mix  cocoa  with a little  cold water,  add to  boiling water,  boil one minute, then add  scalded milk  and beat one minute with  Dover egg-beater.  The froth formed prevents the scum, which is so unsightly.  

 

   Cocoa Cordial. 

  1 teaspoon  cocoa.  
 1 teaspoon  sugar.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
 1 1/2 tablespoons  port wine.  
 
  Mix  cocoa  and  sugar,  add enough of the  water  to form a paste. Stir in remainder of  water  and boil one minute, then add  wine.  Useful in cases of chill or exhaustion.  

   Broiled Beef Essence. 

  1/2 lb.  steak from top of round  (cut 3/4 inch thick). 
 
  Wipe  steak,  remove all fat, and place in a heated  broiler.  Broil three minutes over a clear fire, turning every ten seconds to prevent escape of juices. Put on a hot plate, and cut in one and one-half inch pieces; gash each piece two or three times on each side. Express the juice with a  lemon squeezer  and turn into a cup, set in a dish of  hot water,  care being taken that heat is not sufficient to coagulate  juices.  Season with  salt.   

   Broiled Beef Tea. 

Dilute  Broiled Beef Essence  with  water.   

   Bottled Beef Essence. 

  1 lb.  steak from top of round.  
 
  Wipe  steak,  remove all fat, and cut in small pieces. Place in canning jar, cover; place on  trivet  in kettle and surround with  cold water.  Allow  water  to heat slowly, care being taken not to have it reach a higher temperature than 130°F. Let stand two hours; strain, and press the meat to obtain all the  juices.   Salt  to taste.  

   Bottled Beef Tea. 

  1 lb.  steak from top of round.  
 1 pint  cold water.  
  Salt.  
 
  Prepare the  beef  as for Bottled Beef Essence. Soak fifteen minutes in the  water,  and cook three hours same as 
 
 

Bottled Beef Essence. Strain and season. In reheating, care should be taken not to coagulate the  juices.   Beef tea contains albuminous juices, salts, and a very small amount of fat (so intermingled with the lean meat that it cannot be removed), together with that part of the meat which gives to it flavor and color. The fibre that remains contains much proteid in the form of insoluble albumen, which could not be extracted. Although the meat is tasteless, it still holds much nutriment, being deprived of but little other than its stimulating properties. When the albuminous juices of beef tea are allowed to coagulate, and tea is strained, it has about the same value as a cup of hot salted water.  

   Frozen Beef Tea. 

Freeze  Beef Tea  to the consistency of a mush.  

   Flour Gruel. 

  1 tablespoon  flour.  
 2 cups  milk.  
  Salt.  
 
  Mix  flour  with one-fourth cup of  milk.  Scald remaining  milk  in  double boiler,  add flour paste, and cook thirty minutes. Season.  

   Arrowroot Gruel. 

  1 cup  boiling water.  
 2 teaspoons  Bermuda arrowroot.  
  Cold water.  
  Salt.  
 
  Mix  arrowroot  with  cold water  to form a thin paste. Add to  boiling water  and cook ten minutes. Season, and add  cream  if desired.  Arrowroot  is the purest form of  starch.   

   Farina Gruel. 

  2 cups  boiling water.  
 1 tablespoon  farina.  
  Cold water.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 1  egg.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix  farina  with enough  cold water  to form a thin paste. Add to  boiling water  and boil thirty minutes; then add  milk  and reheat. Beat  egg,  add to gruel, season, and serve.  

 

   Indian Gruel. 

  2 tablespoons  Indian meal.  
 1 tablespoon  flour.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
  Cold water.  
 3 cups  boiling water.  
  Milk  or  cream.  
 
  Mix meal,  flour,  and  salt;  add  cold water  to make a thin paste. Add to  boiling water,  and boil gently one hour. Dilute with  milk  or  cream.   A richer gruel may be made by using  milk  instead of water, and cooking three hours in  double boiler.    

   Oatmeal Gruel I. 

  1/2 cup  coarse oatmeal.  
 3 cups  boiling water.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
  Milk.  
 
  Add  oatmeal  and  salt  to  boiling water  and cook three hours in  double boiler.  Force through a strainer, dilute with  milk  or  cream,  reheat, and strain a second time.  

   Oatmeal Gruel II. 

  2/3 cup  coarse oatmeal.  
 1 pint  cold water.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
  Milk  or  cream.  
 
  Pound  oatmeal  until mealy, add one-third of the  water,  stir well, let settle, and pour off the mealy  water.  Repeat twice, using remaining  water.  Boil the mealy  water  thirty minutes; season with  salt,  dilute with  milk  or  cream,  strain, and serve. A delicate gruel, but more expensive and less nutritious than Oatmeal Gruel I.  

   Barley Gruel. 

  1 cup  boiling water.  
 3 teaspoons  barley flour.  
  Cold water.  
 1/2 cup  milk.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix  barley flour  with  cold water  to form a thin paste. Add to  boiling water,  and boil fifteen minutes; then add  milk,  season, reheat, and strain.  

 

   Cracker Gruel. 

  1/2  Boston cracker.  
 1/4 teaspoon  salt.  
 1 cup  milk.  
 
  Scald  milk,  and add  cracker  rolled and sifted. Cook five minutes in  double boiler.  Season.  

   Imperial Granum. 

  1 tablespoon  Imperial Granum.  
 1/2 cup  scalded milk.  
 1/2 cup  boiling water.  
  Salt.  
  Cold water.  
 
  Mix Granum with  cold water  to form a thin paste. Add to  milk  and  water,  and cook fifteen minutes in  double boiler,  then season. Increase the proportion of  milk  to the needs of the patient.  

   Clam Water. 

Wash and scrub one and one-half dozen  clams.  Cook in covered kettle with three tablespoons  water  until shells open. Remove  clams,  strain liquor through double  cheese cloth.  Serve hot or as a frappé.  

   Mutton Broth. 

  3 lbs.  mutton (from the neck).  
 2 quarts  cold water.  
 1 teaspoon  salt.  
 Few grains  pepper.  
 3 tablespoons  rice  or 
 3 tablespoons  barley.  
 
  Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut in small pieces. Put into kettle with  bones,  and cover with  cold water.  Heat gradually to boiling point, skim, then season with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook slowly until meat is tender, strain, and remove fat. Reheat to boiling point, add  rice  or  barley,  and cook until  rice  or  barley  is tender. If  barley  is used, soak over night in  cold water.  Some of the meat may be served with the broth.  

 

   Chicken Broth. 

Dress and clean a  chicken;  remove skin and fat, disjoint, and wipe with a wet cloth. Put into  stewpan,  cover with  cold water,  heat slowly to boiling point, skim, and cook until meat is tender. When half done, season with one and one-half teaspoons  salt  and few grains  pepper.  Strain, and remove fat. There should be about three pints of stock. Reheat to boiling point, add two tablespoons washed  rice,  and cook until  rice  is soft.  

   Indian Meal Mush. 

  1/2 cup  Indian meal.  
 3/4 cup  milk.  
 1 cup  boiling water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix meal and  salt,  add  milk,  and stir into  boiling water.  Cook three hours in  double boiler.  Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Rye Meal Mush. 

  1/2 cup  rye meal.  
 1 1/4 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 cup  cold water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Mix meal,  salt,  and  cold water.  Add to  boiling water,  and boil five minutes. Cook one hour in  double boiler.  Serve with  maple syrup.   

   Oatmeal Mush. 

  1/2 cup coarse  oatmeal.  
 2 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Add  salt  and  oatmeal  to  boiling water.  Cook three or four hours in  double boiler.  Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   

   Hominy Mush. 

  1/2 cup  fine hominy.  
 1 pint  boiling water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Prepare as for Quaker Oats Mush, cooking one hour in  double boiler.   

 

   Quaker Oats Mush. 

  2/3 cup  Quaker Rolled Oats.  
 1 1/4 cups  boiling water.  
 1/2 teaspoon  salt.  
 
  Add  salt  to  boiling water;  then add  oats,  and cook one-half hour in  double boiler.  Serve with  sugar  and  cream.  Any preparation of  steamed rolled oats  may be used.  

   Beef Balls. 

Take a small piece of  steak from top of round;  wipe and cut in one-third inch  s. With a knife scrape the freshly cut surface, removing all that is possible of the soft part of  meat;  then turn and scrape other side. Season with  salt;  if  pepper  is desired, use sparingly. Form into small balls, using as little pressure as possible. Cook one minute in a hot  omelet pan,  sprinkled with  salt,  shaking pan to keep the balls in motion. Arrange on small pieces of buttered  toast,  and garnish with  parsley.   

   Raw Beef Sandwiches. 

Prepare  bread  as for Bread and Butter Sandwiches. Spread one-half the pieces with  scraped beef,  generously seasoned with  salt;  if  pepper  is desired, use sparingly. Cover with remaining pieces.  

   Egg Sandwiches. 

Cut thin slices of  stale bread  in triangles, then toast. Put together in pairs, having between the pieces thoroughly cooked  egg yolk,  rubbed to a paste, seasoned with  salt,  and moistened with  soft butter.   

   To Broil Birds in Buttered Cases. 

Butter a sheet of letter paper, place a  boned bird  on lower half of sheet, fold upper half over bird, bringing edges of paper together. Begin at edges, and fold over lower side and ends of paper three times. Place in a wire 
 
 

 broiler,  and broil ten minutes over a slow fire, being careful that paper does not catch on fire. Remove from case, place on slice of  toast,  season with  salt,   pepper,  and  butter.  Garnish with thin slices of  lemon  and  parsley.  A  breast of chicken,   tenderloin of steak,  or  lamb chop  may be cooked in the same way.  

   Rennet Custard (Junket). 

  1 cup  milk.  
 2 tablespoons  sugar.  
 1 tablespoon  sherry wine.  
 1 teaspoon  liquid rennet.  
 
  Heat  milk  until lukewarm, add  sugar  and  wine;  when  sugar  is dissolved, add rennet. Turn into a small mould, and let stand in a cool place until firm. Serve with  sugar  and  cream.   Cinnamon  or  nutmeg  may be used in place of  wine.  Liquid rennet may be bought in bottles of any first-class grocer.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 HELPFUL HINTS TO THE YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER. 
   To Scald Milk. 

Put in top of  double boiler,  having  water  boiling in under part. Cover, and let stand on top of range until  milk  around edge of  double boiler  has a bead-like appearance.  

   For Buttered Cracker Crumbs, 

allow from one-fourth to one-third cup  melted butter  to each cup of  crumbs.  Stir lightly with a fork in mixing, that  crumbs  may be evenly coated and light rather than compact.  

   To Cream Butter. 

Put in a bowl and work with a wooden spoon until soft and of creamy consistency. Should buttermilk exude from  butter  it should be poured off.  

   To Extract Juice from Onion. 

Cut a slice from root end of  onion,  draw back the skin, and press  onion  on a coarse  grater,  working with a rotary motion.  

   To Chop Parsley. 

Remove leaves from  parsley.  If  parsley  is wet, first dry in a towel. Gather  parsley  between thumb and fingers and press compactly. With a sharp  vegetable knife  cut through and through. Again gather in fingers and recut, so continuing until  parsley  is finely cut.  

   To Caramelize Sugar. 

Put in a smooth  granite saucepan  or  omelet pan,  place over hot part of range, and stir constantly until melted and of the color of maple syrup. Care must be taken to prevent  sugar  from adhering to sides of pan or spoon.  

 

   To Make Caramel. 

Continue the caramelization of  sugar  until syrup is quite brown and a whitish smoke arises from it. Add an equal quantity of  boiling water,  and simmer until of the consistency of a thick syrup. Of use in coloring soups, sauces, etc.  

   Acidulated Water 

is  water  to which  vinegar  or  lemon juice  is added. One tablespoon of the acid is allowed to one quart  water.   

   To Blanch Almonds. 

Cover  Jordan almonds  with  boiling water  and let stand two minutes; drain, put into  cold water,  and rub off the skins. Dry between towels.  

   To Shred Almonds. 

Cut  blanched almonds  in thin  s lengthwise of the nut.  

   Macaroon Dust. 

 Dry macaroons  pounded and sifted.  

   To Shell Chestnuts. 

Cut a half-inch gash on flat sides and put in an  omelet pan,  allowing one-half teaspoon  butter  to each cup  chestnuts.  Shake over range until  butter  is melted. Put in oven and let stand five minutes. Remove from oven, and with a small knife take off shells. By this method shelling and blanching is accomplished at the same time, as skins adhere to shells.  

  Flavoring Extracts and Wine  should be added if possible to a mixture when cold. If added while mixture is hot, much of the goodness passes off with the steam. 
   Meat Glaze. 

Four quarts  stock  reduced to one cup.  

   Mixed Mustard. 

Mix two tablespoons  mustard  and one teaspoon  sugar,  add  hot water  gradually until of the consistency of a thick paste.   Vinegar  may be used in place of water.   

   To Prevent Salt from Lumping. 

Mix with  corn-starch,  allowing one teaspoon  corn-starch  to six teaspoons  salt.   

 

   To Wash Carafes. 

Half fill with  hot soapsuds,  to which is added one teaspoon  washing soda.  Put in  newspaper  torn in small pieces. Let stand one-half hour, occasionally shaking. Empty, rinse with  hot water,  drain, wipe outside, and let stand to dry inside.  

  After Broiling or Frying.  If any fat has spattered on range, wipe surface at once with newspaper. 
   To Remove Fruit Stains. 

Pour  boiling water  over stained surface, having it fall from a distance of three feet. This is a much better way than dipping stain in and out of  hot water;  or wring articles out of  cold water  and hang out of doors on a frosty night.  

   To Remove Stains of Claret Wine. 

As soon as claret is split, cover spot with  salt.  Let stand a few minutes, then rinse in  cold water.   

   To Clean Graniteware 

where mixtures have been cooked or burned on. Half fill with  cold water,  add washing  soda,  heat  water  gradually to boiling point, then empty, when dish may be easily washed.   Pearline or any soap powder  may be used in place of washing soda.   

   To Wash Mirrors and Windows. 

Rub over with  chamois skin  wrung out of  warm water,  then wipe with a piece of dry  chamois skin.  This method saves much strength.  

   To Remove White Spots from Furniture. 

Dip a cloth in  hot water  nearly to boiling point. Place over spot, remove quickly and rub over spot with a dry cloth. Repeat if spot is not removed.  Alcohol  or  camphor  quickly applied may be used.  

  Tumblers  which have contained milk should be first rinsed in cold water before washing in hot water. 
   To keep a  Sink Drain  free from grease, 

pour down once a week at night one-half can  Babbitt's potash  dissolved in one quart  water.   

 

    Should  Sink Drain  chance to get choked,  

pour into sink one-fourth pound  copperas  dissolved in two quarts  boiling water.  If this is not efficacious, repeat before sending for a plumber.  

 Never put  Knives  with ivory handles in water. Hot water causes them to crack and discolor. 
   To prevent  Glassware  from being easily broken, 

put in a kettle of  cold water,  heat gradually until  water  has reached boiling point. Set aside; when  water  is cold take out glass. This is a most desirable way to toughen lamp chimneys.  

   To Remove Grease Spots. 

 Cold water  and  Ivory soap  will remove grease spots from cotton and woollen fabrics.  Castilian Cream  is useful for black woollen goods, but leaves a light ring on delicately colored goods. Either is always sure and safe to use.  

   To Remove Iron Rust. 

Saturate spot with  lemon juice,  then cover with  salt.  Let stand in the sun for several hours; or a  solution of hydrochloric acid  may be used.  

    Iron Rust  may be removed from delicate fabrics 

by covering spot thickly with  cream of tartar,  then twisting cloth to keep  cream of tartar  over spot; put in a saucepan of  cold water,  and heat  water  gradually to boiling point.  

    To Remove Grass Stains  from cotton goods, 

wash in  alcohol.   

   To Remove Ink Stains. 

Wash in a  solution of hydrochloric acid,  and rinse in  ammonia water.  Wet the spot with  warm water,  put on  Sapolio,  rub gently between the hands, and generally the spot will disappear.  

    Cut Glass  

should be washed and rinsed in water that is not very hot and of same temperature.  

  In  Sweeping Carpets, 

keep broom close to floor and work with the grain of the carpet. Occasionally turn broom that it may wear evenly.  

 

  Tie Strands of a New Broom  closely together, put into a pail of boiling water, and soak two hours. Dry thoroughly before using. 
  Never  wash the inside of  Tea or Coffee Pots  

with soapsuds. If granite or  agate ware  is used, and becomes badly discolored, nearly fill pot with  cold water,  add one tablespoon  borax,  and heat gradually until  water  reaches the boiling point. Rinse with  hot water,  wipe, and keep on back of range until perfectly dry.  

 Never put cogs of a   Dover Egg Beater   in water. 
  Never  wash  Bread Boards  

in a sink. Scrub with grain of wood, using a small brush.  

 Before using a  new Iron Kettle,  grease inside and outside, and let stand forty-eight hours; then wash in hot water in which a large lump of cooking soda has been dissolved. 
   To clean a  Copper Boiler,  

use  Putz Pomade Cream.  Apply with a woollen cloth when  boiler  is warm, not hot; then rub off with second woollen cloth and polish with flannel or chamois. If badly tarnished, use  oxalic acid.     Faucets and brasses  

are treated in the same way.   

 A bottle containing  Oxalic Acid  should be marked poison, and kept on a high shelf. 
   To keep an  Ice Chest  in good condition, 

wash thoroughly once a week with cold or  lukewarm water  in which  washing soda  has been dissolved. If by chance anything is spilt in an  ice chest,  it should be wiped off at once.  

 Milk and butter very quickly absorb odors, and if in  ice chest  with other foods, should be kept closely covered. 
     Hard Wood Floors and Furniture  may be polished  

by using a small quantity of  kerosene oil  applied with a woollen cloth, then rubbing with a clean woollen cloth.  A very good  furniture polish 

is made by using equal parts  linseed oil  and  turpentine.    

 

   Polish for Hard Wood Floors. 

Use one part  bees'-wax  to two parts  turpentine.  Put in saucepan on range, and when wax is dissolved a paste will be formed.  

   To clean  Piano Keys,  

rub over with  alcohol.   

   To remove old  Tea and Coffee Stains,  

wet spot with  cold water,  cover with  glycerine,  and let stand two or three hours. Then wash with  cold water  and  hard soap.  Repeat if necessary.  

  Before  Sweeping Old Carpets, 

sprinkle with pieces of  newspaper  wrung out of  water.  After sweeping, wipe over with a cloth wrung out of a weak solution of  ammonia water;  which seems to brighten colors.  

 Platt's Chloride is one of the best  Disinfectants.  Chloride of lime is a valuable disinfectant, and much cheaper than Platt's Chloride.   Listerine  is an excellent disinfectant to use for the mouth and throat. 
   To Make a Pastry Bag. 

Fold a twelve-inch square of  rubber cloth  from two opposite corners. Sew edges together, forming a triangular bag. Cut off point to make opening large enough to insert a tin  pastry tube.  A set comprising bag and twelve adjustable tubes may be bought for two and one-half dollars.  

     Smoked Ceilings  may be cleaned  

by washing with cloths wrung out of  water  in which a small piece of  washing soda  has been dissolved.  

   For a Burn 

apply equal parts of  white of egg  and  olive oil  mixed together, then cover with a piece of old linen; if applied at once no blister will form. Or apply at once  cooking soda,  then cover with cloth and keep the same wet with  cold water.  This takes out the pain and prevents blistering.  

 

  Curtain and Portière Poles  allow the hangings to slip easily if rubbed with hard soap. This is much better than greasing.   Creaking Doors and Drawers  should be treated in the same way. 
   To Remove Dust from Rattan Furniture 

use a small painter's brush.  

 
  
 
 

 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 SUITABLE COMBINATIONS FOR SERVING. 
 
 BREAKFAST MENUS. 
  Oranges. 
 Oatmeal with Sugar and Cream. 
 Broiled Ham. 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 Pop-overs or Fadges. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Quaker Rolled Oats with Baked Apples, Sugar and Cream. 
 Creamed Fish. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Golden Corn Cake. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Bananas. 
 Toasted Wheat with Sugar and Cream. 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 Sautéd Potatoes. 
 Graham Gems. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Grape Fruit. 
 Wheatlet with Sugar and Cream. 
 Beefsteak. 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 Twin Mountain Muffins. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Sliced Oranges. 
 Wheat Germ with Sugar and Cream. 
 Warmed over Lamb. 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 Raised Biscuits. 
 Buckwheat Cakes with Maple Syrup. 
 Coffee. 
 
 
 

  Strawberries. 
 Hominy with Sugar and Cream. 
 Bacon and Fried Eggs. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Rye Muffins. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Raspberries. 
 Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 
 Dried Smoked Beef in Cream. 
 Hashed Brown Potatoes. 
 Baking-Powder Biscuit. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Watermelon. 
 Wheat Germ with Sugar and Cream. 
 Broiled Halibut. 
 Potato Cakes. 
 Sliced Cucumbers. 
 Quaker Biscuit. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Canteloupe. 
 Pettijohns with Sugar and Cream. 
 Cecils with Tomato Sauce. 
 Potato Balls. 
 Rice Muffins. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Peaches. 
 Farinose with Sugar and Cream. 
 Omelette. 
 Potatoes à la Maître ôtel. 
 Berry Muffins. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Blackberries. 
 H-O with Sugar and Cream. 
 Dropped Eggs on Toast. 
 Waffles with Maple Syrup. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Pears. 
 Wheatena with Sugar and Cream. 
 Corned Beef Hash. 
 Milk Toast. 
 Coffee. 
 
 
 

  Grapes. 
 Cereal with Fruit. 
 Fried Smelts. 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Oatmeal Muffins. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Oatmeal Mush with Apples. 
 Hamburg Steaks. 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 White Corn Cake. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Plums an d Pears. 
 Cracked Wheat with Sugar and Cream. 
 Baked Beans. 
 Fish Balls. 
 Brown Bread. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Sliced Peaches. 
 Germea with Sugar and Cream. 
 Brown Bread Toast. 
 Cold Sliced Meat. 
 Sautéd Sweet Potatoes. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Wheatena with Sugar and Cream. 
 Fish Hash. 
 Buttered Graham Toast. 
 Strawberry Short Cake. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Grapes. 
 Wheat Germ with Sugar and Cream. 
 Lamb Chops. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Raised Muffins. 
 Doughnuts and Coffee. 
 
 
 
 LUNCHEON MENUS. 
  Grilled Sardines. 
 Baked Apples with Cream. 
 Rolls. 
 Sponge Cake. 
 Cocoa. 
 
 
 

  Creamed Chicken. 
 Celery. 
 Rolls. 
 Grapes and Apples. 
 Tea. 
 
  Lamb Croquettes. 
 Dressed Lettuce. 
 Gingerbread. 
 Cheese. 
 Tea. 
 
  Split Pea Soup. 
 Crisp Crackers. 
 Egg Salad. 
 Entire Wheat Bread. 
 Oranges. 
 Cocoa. 
 
  Cold Sliced Meat. 
 Cheese Fondue. 
 Bread and Butter. 
 Sliced Peaches. 
 Cookies. 
 Tea. 
 
  Broiled Ham. 
 Scalloped Potatoes. 
 Brown Bread and Butter. 
 Sliced Oranges. 
 Wafers. 
 
  Scalloped Oysters. 
 Rolls. 
 Dressed Celery. 
 Polish Tartlets. 
 Tea. 
 
  Salmi of Lamb. 
 Olives. 
 Bread and Butter. 
 Cake. 
 Chocolate. 
 
  Oyster Stew. 
 Oyster Crackers or Dry Toast. 
 Pickles. 
 Cream Whips. 
 Lady Fingers. 
 
 
 

  Scalloped Turkey. 
 Brown Bread Sandwiches. 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Cheese Straws. 
 Tea. 
 
  Turban of Fish. 
 Saratoga Potatoes. 
 Warmed over Muffins. 
 Nuts. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Tea. 
 
  Cream of Tomato Soup. 
 Croûtons. 
 Omelette with Vegetables. 
 Bread and Butter. 
 Bananas. 
 Tea. 
 
  Salad à la Russe. 
 Graham Bread and Butter. 
 Peach Sauce. 
 Scotch Wafers. 
 Tea. 
 
  Cold Sliced Tongue. 
 Macaroni and Cheese. 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Crackers. 
 Wafers. 
 Coffee. 
 
  Salmon Croquettes. 
 Rolls. 
 Dressed Lettuce. 
 Strawberries and Cream. 
 Tea. 
 
  Beef Stew with Dumplings. 
 Sliced Oranges. 
 Cake. 
 Tea. 
 
  Lobster Salad. 
 Rolls. 
 Raspberries and Cream. 
 Wafers. 
 Russian Tea. 
 
 
 

  Cold Sl iced Corned Beef. 
 Corn à la Southern. 
 Entire Wheat Bread and Butter. 
 Grapes and Pears. 
 
 
 
 DINNER MENUS. 
  Cream of Celery Soup. 
 Roast Beef. 
 Franconia Potatoes. 
 Yorkshire Pudding. 
 Macaroni with Cheese. 
 Tomato and Lettuce Salad. 
 Chocolate Cream. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Tomato Soup. 
 Baked Fish. 
 Hollandaise Sauce. 
 Shadow Potatoes. 
 Cole Slaw. 
 Fig Pudding. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Potato Soup. 
 Boiled Fowl. 
 Egg Sauce. 
 Boiled Rice. 
 Mashed Turnips. 
 Celery. 
 Vegetable Salad. 
 Bread and Butter Pudding. 
 
  Macaroni Soup. 
 Fricassee of Lamb. 
 Riced Potatoes. 
 Stewed Tomatoes. 
 String Bean and Radish Salad. 
 Fruit and Nuts. 
 
  Duchess Soup. 
 Fried Fillets of Halibut. 
 Shredded Potatoes. 
 Hot Tomatoes. 
 Beefsteak Pie. 
 Irish Moss Blanc-Mange with 
 Vanilla Wafers. 
 
 
 

  Kornlet Soup. 
 Maryland Chicken. 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 Creamed Cauliflower. 
 Cranberry Sauce. 
 Dressed Lettuce. 
 Polish Tartlets. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Vegetable Soup. 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 Horseradish. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Cream of Lima Beans. 
 Dressed Celery. 
 Cerealine Pudding. 
 
  St. Germain Soup. 
 Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket. 
 Stuffed Potatoes. 
 Spinach. 
 Pineapple Pudding. 
 Cream Sponge Cake. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  White Soup. 
 Broiled Salmon. 
 Egg Sauce. 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 Green Peas. 
 Cucumbers. 
 Strawberries and Cream. 
 Cake. 
 
  Tomato Soup without Stock. 
 Braised Beef. 
 Horseradish Sauce. 
 Scalloped Potatoes. 
 Squash. 
 Baked Indian Pudding. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Bisque Soup. 
 Broiled Shad. 
 Chartreuse Potatoes. 
 Asparagus on Toast. 
 Cucumber and Lettuce Salad. 
 Prune Whip. 
 Custard Sauce. 
 
  Cream of Pea Soup. 
 Broiled Mutton. 
 Caper Sauce. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Turkish Pilaf. 
 G raham Pudding. 
 Fruit and Nuts. 
 
 
 

  Turkish Soup. 
 Lamb Chops. 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 Apple Fritters. 
 Beet Greens. 
 Caramel Custard. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Irish Stew with Dumplings. 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 Dinner Rolls. 
 Radishes. 
 Custard Soufflé. 
 Creamy Sauce. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 
  Black Bean Soup. 
 Halibut à la Créole. 
 Potatoes en Surprise. 
 Brussels Sprouts. 
 Swiss Pudding. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Cream of Clam Soup. 
 Fried Chicken. 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 Shell Beans. 
 Peach Short Cake. 
 Crackers and Cheese. 
 
  Cream of Lima Bean Soup. 
 Roast Duck. 
 Mashed Sweet Potatoes. 
 Cauliflower au Gratin. 
 Rice Croquettes with Currant Jelly. 
 Grapes. 
 Pears. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Chicken Soup. 
 Broiled Sword Fish. 
 Cucumber Sauce. 
 Baked New Potatoes. 
 Sugared Beets. 
 Strawberry Cottage Pudding. 
 Iced Coffee. 
 
 
  
 
 

 MENU FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER. 
  Oyster Soup. 
 Crisp Crackers. 
 Celery. 
 Salted Almonds. 
 Roast Turkey. 
 Cranberry Jelly. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Onions in Cream. 
 Squash. 
 Chicken Pie. 
 Fruit Pudding. 
 Sterling Sauce. 
 Mince, Apple, and Squash Pie. 
 Neapolitan Ice Cream. 
 Fancy Cakes. 
 Fruit. 
 Nuts and Raisins. 
 Bonbons. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
 
 
 MENU FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER. 
  Consommé. 
 Bread Sticks. 
 Olives. 
 Celery. 
 Salted Pecans. 
 Roast Goose. 
 Potato Stuffing. 
 Apple Sauce. 
 Duchess Potatoes. 
 Cream of Lima Beans. 
 Chicken Croquettes with Green Peas. 
 Dressed Lettuce with Cheese Straws. 
 English Plum Pudding. 
 Brandy Sauce. 
 Frozen Pudding. 
 Assorted Cake. 
 Bonbons. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
 
 
 A FULL COURSE DINNER. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 Little Neck Clams or Bluepoints, with brown-bread sandwiches. Sometimes canapés are used in place of either. For a gentlemen's dinner, canapés accompanied with sherry wine are frequently served before guests enter the dining-room.  
  
 
 

 SECOND COURSE. 
 Clear soup, with bread sticks, small rolls, or crisp crackers. Where two soups are served, one may be a cream soup. Cream soups are served with croûtons. Radishes, celery, or olives are passed after the soup. Salted almonds may be passed between any of the courses.  
 
 THIRD COURSE. 
 Bouchées or rissoles. The filling to be of light meat.  
 
 FOURTH COURSE. 
 Fish, baked, boiled, or fried. Cole slaw, dressed cucumbers, or tomatoes accompany this course; with fried fish potatoes are often served.  
 
 FIFTH COURSE. 
 Roast saddle of venison or mutton, spring lamb, or fillet of beef; potatoes and one other vegetable.  
 
 SIXTH COURSE. 
 Entrée, made of light meat or fish.  
 
 SEVENTH COURSE. 
 A vegetable. Such vegetables as mushrooms, cauliflower, asparagus, artichokes, are served, but not in white sauce.  
 
 EIGHTH COURSE. 
 Punch or cheese course. Punch, when served, always precedes the game course.  
 
 NINTH COURSE. 
 Game, with vegetable salad, usually lettuce or celery; or cheese sticks may be served with the salad, and game omitted.  
 
 TENTH COURSE. 
 Dessert, usually cold.  
  
 
 

 ELEVENTH COURSE. 
 Frozen dessert and fancy cakes. Bonbons are passed after this course.  
 
 TWELFTH COURSE. 
 Crackers, cheese, and café noir. Café noir is frequently served in the drawing and smoking rooms after the dinner.  Where wines and liquors are served, the first course is not usually accompanied by either; but if desired, Sauterne or other white wine may be used.  With soup, serve sherry; with fish, white wine; with game, claret; with roast and other courses, champagne.  After serving café noir in drawing-room, pass pony of brandy for men, sweet liqueur (Chartreuse, Benedictine, or Parfait d'Amour) for women; then Crême de Menthe to all.  After a short time Apollinaris should be passed. White wines and claret should be served cool; sherry should be thoroughly chilled by keeping in  ice box.  Champagne should be served very cold by allowing it to remain in salt and ice at least one-half hour before dinner time. Claret, as it contains so small an amount of alcohol, is not good the day after opening.  For a simpler dinner, the third, seventh, eighth, and tenth courses, and the game in the ninth course may be omitted.  For a home dinner, it is always desirable to serve for first course a soup; second course, meat or fish, with potatoes and two other vegetables; third course, a vegetable salad, with French dressing; fourth course, dessert; fifth course, crackers, cheese, and café noir.  At a ladies' luncheon the courses are as many as at a small dinner. In winter, grape fruit is sometimes served in place of oysters; in summer, selected strawberries in small Swedish Timbale cases.  
 
  
 
 

 MENUS FOR FULL COURSE DINNERS. 
  Blue Points. 
 Consommé à la Royal. 
 Olives. 
 Celery. 
 Salted Almonds. 
 Swedish Timbales with Chicken and Mushrooms. 
 Fried Smelts. 
 Sauce Tartare. 
 Dressed Cucumbers. 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 Currant Jelly Sauce. 
 Potatoes Brabrant. 
 Brussels Sprouts. 
 Suprême of Chicken. 
 Mushrooms à la Sabine. 
 Canton Sherbet. 
 Canvasback Duck. 
 Olive Sauce. 
 Farina Cakes with Jelly. 
 Celery Salad. 
 Apricot and Wine Jelly. 
 Nesselrode Pudding. 
 Rolled Wafers.  
 Parisian Sweets. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
  Little Neck Clams. 
 Consommé au Parmesan. 
 Olives. 
 Salted Pecans. 
 Bouchées. 
 Fillets of Halibut à la Poulette with Mayonnaise. 
 Tomatoes.  
 Delmonico Potatoes. 
 String Beans. 
 Larded Fillet of Beef with Horseradish Sauce. 
 Glazed Sweetbreads. 
 Artichokes with Béchamel Sauce. 
 Sorbet. 
 Broiled Quail with Lettuce and Celery Salad. 
 Bananas. 
 Cantaloupes. 
 Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce. 
 Cinnamon Bars. 
 Lady Fingers. 
 Bonbons. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
 
 

  Anchovy Canapés. 
 Julienne Soup. 
 Olives. 
 Celery. 
 Ginger Chips. 
 Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes. 
 Stuffed Fillets of Halibut. 
 French Hollandaise Sauce. 
 Tomato Jelly. 
 Spring Lamb. 
 Potato Fritters. 
 Asparagus Tips with Hollandaise Sauce. 
 Chaud-froid of Chicken. 
 Crême de Menthe Ice. 
 Larded Grouse. 
 Bread Sauce. 
 Lettuce and Radish Salad. 
 Mont Blanc. 
 Bombe Glacée. 
 Sponge Drops. 
 Almond Crescents. 
 Bonbons. 
 Crackers. 
 Cheese. 
 Café Noir. 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

 NECESSARY UTENSILS AND STORES FOR FITTING A SCHOOL KITCHEN FOR A CLASS OF TWENTY-FOUR. 
 MISS A. G. E. HOPE. 
 
 AGATE WARE. 
  Hot water boiler  (capacity fifteen gallons). 
 12 small  dish pans.  
 1 large  dish pan.  
 1 hand basin. 
 1 teakettle. 
 3 3-pint  double boilers.  
 1 2-quart  double boiler.  
 3 2-quart saucepans with covers. 
 3 3-quart saucepans with covers. 
 1 4-quart saucepan with cover. 
 3 1-pint saucepans with covers. 
 6 1/2-pint saucepans with covers. 
 1 coffeepot. 
 TIN AND STEEL WARE. 
 12 measuring cups, divided in quarters. 
 12 measuring cups, divided in thirds. 
 24 round tin pans for washing vegetables. 
 24 tin plates. 
 6 medium-sized  biscuit cutters.  
 6 small  doughnut cutters.  
 1 2-quart milk can. 
 1 1-quart measure. 
 1  flour sifter  with crank. 
 3  extension flour sifters.  
 3  gravy strainers.  
 1  colander.  
 1 large  grater.  
 1  nutmeg grater.  
 1 set  skewers.  
 1  dripping pan  and rack. 
 1  steamer.  
 2 tin sheets. 
 3 large pans. 
 3 small bread pans. 
 3 cake pans. 
 3  pie plates.  
 1  pudding mould.  
 3 1/2-pint moulds. 
 3 wire  potato mashers.  
 12 small salt boxes. 
 12  pepper boxes  ( shakers ). 
 1  flour dredger.  
 1  wire broiler.  
 4  soap shakers.  
 1 2-quart  dipper.  
  Wire dish cloth.  
 2 dozen tablespoons. 
 4 dozen teaspoons. 
 1  griddle cake turner.  
 1  skimmer.  
 1  dish drainer.  
 1 dust pan. 
 1  Dover egg-beater.  
 3 small  omelet pans.  
 1 large frying-pan. 
 2 dozen  case knives.  
 2 dozen forks. 
 2 dozen  vegetable knives.  
 1  carving knife  and fork. 
 1  knife sharpener.  
 1  cleaver.  
 
 

 EARTHEN AND GLASS WARE. 
 6 2-quart yellow bowls. 
 6 1-quart white bowls. 
 6 large bowls for bread dough. 
 3 1-pint oval  pudding dishes.  
 3 1-pint round yellow dishes. 
 2 2-quart pitchers. 
 1 1-quart pitcher. 
 1 1-pint pitcher. 
 1 butter jar. 
 1  bean pot.  
 7 soap dishes (for common soap). 
 7 soap dishes (for Sapolio). 
 1 small tea set: teapot,  sugar bowl,   creamer.  
 1 small dinner set with small  tureen.  
 3 white platters (of different sizes). 
 6 large white plates. 
 6 small white plates. 
 24  sauce dishes  (to be used for serving). 
 6 teacups and saucers. 
 12  after dinner cups and saucers.  
 1 glass  lemon drill.  
 1 dozen  tumblers.  
 6 2-quart  Mason jars, } 
 6 1-quart  Mason jars, } for keeping stores. 
 6 1-pint  Mason jars,  } 
 WOODEN WARE. 
 1 large wooden bucket for flour. 
 1 wooden bucket for pastry flour. 
 1 wooden bucket for sugar. 
 6  moulding boards.  
 3 rolling pins. 
 3 wooden mashers. 
 3 wooden mixing spoons. 
 12  scrubbing brushes.  
 1 large  scrubbing brush.  
 6  vegetable brushes.  
 1 small pair steps. 
 2 towel racks. 
 1  sink scraper.  
 2 long-handled brushes. 
 2 short-handled brushes (one for stove, one for floor). 
 2 blacking brushes. 
 1  dauber.  
 1 large feather duster. 
 1 small feather duster. 
 LINENS, DUSTERS, ETC. 
 3 hand towels (for teacher). 
 1 dozen dish towels. 
 6  glass towels.  
 4 dish cloths. 
 6 oven cloths. 
 4 floor cloths. 
 4 sink cloths. 
 3 dozen desk cloths. 
 2 dozen small dusters for desks. 
 6  cheese cloth  dusters, one yard square. 
 6 yards coarse flannel. 
 1 white tablecloth. 2 1/2 yards long. 
 1 red tablecloth. 
 1  silence cloth.  
 1 dozen napkins. 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 3 3-quart porcelain-lined iron kettles, with tight-fitting covers. 
 3 sets iron  gem pans.  
 4 match boxes. 
 1 inkstand. 
 1 pair scissors. 
 1 bell. 
 
 

 STORES. 
 1/2 barrel bread flour. 
 1 bag whole wheat flour. 
 1 bag pastry flour. 
 25 lbs. fine granulated sugar. 
 5 lbs. powdered sugar. 
 6 lbs. rice. 
 6 lbs. cornmeal. 
 2 1-pound packages corn-starch. 
 4 1-pound boxes baking powder. 
 12-pound bag salt. 
 1/2-pound box mustard. 
 1 box each cinnamon, clove, allspice, and mace. 
 2 oz. whole mace. 
 2 oz. whole cloves. 
 2 oz. whole peppercorns. 
 1/4 lb. nutmegs. 
 2 lbs. currants. 
 2 lbs. raisins. 
 1/2 lb. citron. 
 36 cakes common soap. 
 12 bars Ivory soap. 
 36 cakes Sapolio. 
 6 tins stove polish. 
 2 tins Putz Cream (for cleaning faucets and  boiler. ) 
 
 
  
 
 

 GLOSSARY. 
   Accolade de perdreaux.   Brace of partridge.  
  Agneau.   Lamb.  
  Agra dolce (sour sweet).   An Italian sauce served with meat.  
  à la, au, aux.   With or dressed in a certain style.  
  Allemande (à la).   In German style.  
  Ambrosia.   Food for the gods. Often applied to a fruit salad.  
  Américaine (à l').   In American style.  
  Ancienne (à l').   In old style.  
  Angelica.   A plant, the stalks of which are preserved and used for decorating moulds.  
  Asafetida.   A gum resin. Its taste is bitter and sub-acrid, and by the Asiatics it is used regularly as a condiment.  
  Asperges.   Asparagus.  
  Au gratin.   With browned crumbs.  
  Aurora sauce.   A white sauce to which lobster butter is added.  
  Avena.   Oats.  
   Baba Cakes.   Cakes baked in small moulds; made from a yeast dough mixture to which is added butter, sugar, eggs, raisins, and almonds. Served as a pudding with hot sauce.  
  Bain-Marie.   A vessel of any kind containing heated water, in which other vessels are placed in order to keep their contents heated.  
  Bannocks.   Scottish cakes made of barley or oatmeal, cooked on a griddle.  
  Bards.   Slices of pork or bacon to lay on the breast of game for cooking.  
  Basil.   A pot herb.  
  Bay leaves.   Leaves from a species of laurel.  
  Béarnaise (à la).   In Swiss style.  
  Béarnaise sauce.   Named from Béarnaise, Swiss home of Henry VIII.  
  Béchamel (à la).   With sauce made of chicken stock and milk or cream.  
  Beignet.   Fritter.  
  Beurre noir.   Black butter.  
  Biscuit Glacé.   Small cakes of ice cream.  
  Bisque.   A soup usually made from shellfish; or an ice cream to which is added finely chopped nuts.  
  Blanch (to).   To whiten.  
  Blanquette.   White meat in cream sauce.  
  Bœuf braisé.   Braised beef.  
  Bœuf à la jardinière.   Braised beef with vegetables.  
  Bombe glacée.   Moulded ice cream and ice, or two kinds of ice cream. Outside of one kind, filling of another.  
  Bouchées.   Literally, mouthful. Small patties.  
  Bouquet of herbs.   A sprig each of thyme, savory, marjoram, and parsley.  
  Bourgeoise (à la).   In family style.  
  Bretonne sauce.   A stock sauce in which chopped parsley is served.  
   Café noir.   Black coffee.  
  Cerrelles de veau.   Calf's brains.  
  Chartreuse.   A mould of aspic in which there are vegetables; a meat preparation filling the centre of the mould. Used to denote anything concealed.  
  Chateaubriand.   A cut from the centre of a fillet of beef.  
  Chaud-froid.   Literally hot cold. In cookery a jellied sauce.  
  Chou-fleur.   Cauliflower.  
 
 

  Chutney.   An East India sweet pickle.   
  Civet.   A game stew.  
  Compotes.   Fruits stewed in syrup and kept in original shape.  
  Consommé de volaille.   Chicken soup.  
  Côtelettes.   Cutlets.  
  Court bouillon.   A highly seasoned liquor in which to cook fish.  
  Créole (à la).   With tomatoes.  
  Croûte au pot.   A brown soup poured over small pieces of toast.  
  Curry powder.   A yellow powder of which the principal ingredient is turmeric. Used largely in India.  
   De, d'.   Of.  
  Devilled.   Highly seasoned.  
  Dinde farcie.   Stuffed turkey.  
  Dinde, sauce céleri.   Turkey with celery sauce.  
   écossaise (à l').   In Scottish style.  
  En bellevue.   In aspic jelly. Applied to meats.  
  En coquilles.   In shells.  
  En papillotes.   In papers.  
  éperlans frits.   Fried smelts.  
  Espagnole sauce.   A rich brown sauce.  
   Farci-e.   Stuffed.  
  Fillet de bœuf piqué.   Larded fillet of beef.  
  Flamande (à la).   In Holland style.  
  Foie de veau grillé.   Broiled liver.  
  Fondue.   A dish prepared of cheese and eggs.  
  Fraises.   Strawberries.  
  Frappé.   Semi-frozen.  
  Fricassée de poulet.   Fricassee of chicke n.  
  Fromage.   Cheese.  
   Gâteau.   Cake.  
  Gelée.   Jelly.  
  Génevoise (à la).   In Swiss style.  
  Glacé.   Iced or glossed over.  
  Grilled.   Broiled.  
   Hachis de bœuf.   Beef hash.  
  Hoe cakes.   Cakes made of white corn-meal, salt, and boiling water; cooked on a griddle.  
  Homard.   Lobster.  
  Hors-d'œuvres.   Side dishes.  
  Huîtres en coquille.   Oysters in shell.  
  Huîtres frite.   Fried oysters.  
   Italienne(à l').   In Italian style.  
   Jambon froid.   Cold ham.  
  Jardinière.   Mixed vegetables.  
   Kirschwasser.   Liqueur made from cherry juice.  
  Kuchen.   German for cake.  
  Kümmel.   Liqueur flavored with cumin and caraway seed.  
   Lait.   Milk.  
  Laitue.   Lettuce.  
  Langue de bœuf à l'écarlate.   Pickled tongue.  
   Macaroni au fromage.   Macaroni with cheese.  
  Macédoine.   A mixture of several kinds of vegetables.  
  Maigre.   A vegetable soup without stock.  
  Maître d'hôtel.   Head steward.  
  Mango.   A fruit of the West Indies, Florida, and Mexico.  
  Mango pickles.   Stuffed and pickled young melons and cucumbers.  
  Maraschino.   A cordial.  
  Marrons.   Chestnuts.  
  Menu.   A bill of fare.  
  Morue.   Salt cod.  
   Noël.   Christmas.  
  Noir.   Black.  
  Nouilles.   Noodles.  
  Noyau.   A cordial.  
   Œufs farcis.   Stuffed eggs.  
  Œufs pochés.   Poached eggs.  
  Omelette aux fines herbes.   Omelette with fine herbs.  
  Omelette aux champignons.   Omelette with mushrooms.  
   Pain.   Bread.  
  Panade.   Bread and milk cooked to a paste.  
  Paté de biftecks.   Beefsteak pie.  
  Paté de foie gras.   A paste made of fatted geese livers.  
  Pigeonneaux.   Squabs.  
  Pois.   Peas.  
  Pommes.   Apples.  
  Pommes de terre.   Potatoes.  
  Pommes de terre à la Lyonnaise.   Lyonnaise potatoes.  
 
 

  Pone cakes.   A cake made in the South, baked in the oven.  
  Potage.   Soup.  
  Poulets sautés.   Fried chicken.  
   Queues de bœuf.   Ox-tails.  
   Ragoût.   A highly seasoned meat dish.  
  Réchauffés.   Warmed over dishes.  
  Removes.   The roasts or principal dishes.  
  Ris de veau.   Sweetbreads.  
   Salade de laitue.   Lettuce salad.  
  Salade de légumes.   Vegetable salad.  
  Salpicon.   Highly seasoned minced meat mixed with a thick sauce.  
  Selle de venaison.   Saddle of venison.  
  Sippets.   English for crofitons.  
  Soufflé.   Literally, puffed up.  
  Soupe à l'ognon.   Onion soup.  
  Sueres.   Sweets.  
   Tarte aux pommes.   Apple pie.  
  Tourte.   A tart.  
  Truite saumonée.   Salmon trout.  
 
 
  
 
 

 COURSE OF INSTRUCTION AS GIVEN AT THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL, 174 TREMONT STREET. 
 
 PRACTICE LESSONS. 
 ONE lesson a week, from 9 to 12.30. Eight Pupils constitute a full class. Pupils may enter one or more classes. After the lesson the food prepared is served to the pupils. Applications to enter classes may be made from October to February. Classes for cooks in Second and Third Courses on Thursday and Friday at 2 P.M.  No extra charge for materials in Cooks' Classes.   
 
 FIRST COURSE.--PLAIN COOKING. 
 Twelve Lessons for $12.00. Materials, $3.00. 
 
 First Lesson. 
 The Making and Care of a Fire. 
 Coffee. 
 Mixing Water Bread. 
 Tomato Soup (without stock). 
 Croûtons. 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 Mutton Chops. 
 German Toast. 
 
 
 Second Lesson. 
 Baking Bread. 
 Potato Soup. 
 Broiled Fish. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Boiled Eggs. 
 Hash. 
 Scalloped Eggs. 
 Blanc-Mange. 
 
 
 

 
 Third Lesson. 
 Brown Soup Stock. 
 Mixing Milk Bread. 
 Griddle Cakes. 
 Boiled Fish. 
 Drawn Butter or Egg Sauce. 
 Steamed Potatoes. 
 Tapioca Cream. 
 
 
 Fourth Lesson. 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 To Clarify Fat and Tryour Lard. 
 Baking Milk Bread. 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 Broiled Steak. 
 Broiled Meat Cakes. 
 Baked Custards. 
 Cookies or Ginger Snaps. 
 
 
 Fifth Lesson. 
 Beef Stew with Dumplings. 
 Graham Bread. 
 Scalloped Fish. 
 White Sauce. 
 Poached Eggs on Toast. 
 Short Cakes. 
 Gingerbread. 
 Tea. 
 
 
 Sixth Lesson. 
 Golden Corn Cake. 
 Fish Balls. 
 Fried Fish. 
 Fried Potatoes. 
 Omelet. 
 Chocolate. 
 Harvard Pudding. 
 Apple and Hard Sauce. 
 
 
 Seventh Lesson. 
 Fish Chowder. 
 Stuffed Eggs. 
 Bread Omelet. 
 Bacon. 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 Graham Gems. 
 Chocolate Bread Pudding. 
 Hard Sauce. 
 Parker House Rolls. 
 
 
 Eighth Lesson. 
 Pea Soup. 
 Crisp Crackers. 
 Baked Beans. 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 Doughnuts. 
 Brown Bread. 
 Steamed Squash. 
 Apple Pie. 
 
 
 Ninth Lesson. 
 Scotch Broth. 
 Corn Fritters. 
 Tomato Salad. 
 Milk Toast. 
 Sweet Sandwiches. 
 Cake. 
 Eggs in Batter. 
 Sherbet. 
 
 
 Tenth Lesson. 
 Roast Beef. 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 Macaroni. 
 Scalloped Cabbage. 
 Cereal with Fruit. 
 Rye Muffins. 
 Prune Pudding. 
 Custard Sauce. 
 
 
 

 
 Eleventh Lesson. 
 Oyster Soup or Stew. 
 Broiled Oysters. 
 Veal Birds. 
 Cole Slaw. 
 Twin Mountain Muffins. 
 Peach Tapioca Pudding. 
 Coffee Cake. 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 
 Twelfth Lesson. 
 Roast or Fricassee Chicken. 
 Rice with Cheese. 
 Creamed Turnips. 
 Hominy Cakes. 
 Plain Lobster. 
 French Dressing. 
 Custard Sufflé. 
 Creamy Sauce. 
 
 
 
 SECOND COURSE.--RICHER COOKING. 
 Twelve Lessons for $15.00. Materials, $3.00. 
 
 First Lesson. 
 Coffee. 
 Baked Apples. 
 Lyonnaise Potatoes. 
 Broiled Beefsteak with Maître d'Hôtel Butter. 
 Eggs à la Goldenrod. 
 Rice Griddle Cakes. 
 Soda Biscuit. 
 Frizzled Beef. 
 
 
 Second Lesson. 
 Mutton Cutlets Breaded, with Tomato Sauce. 
 French Fried Potatoes. 
 Parisienne Potatoes. 
 Baked Eggs. 
 Rye Drop Cakes. 
 Waffles. 
 Lemon Syrup. 
 Chocolate. 
 
 
 Third Lesson. 
 Spanish Omelet. 
 Parker House Rolls. 
 Scalloped Oysters. 
 Smothered Oysters. 
 Oysters Sautéd. 
 Eggs in Baskets. 
 Breakfast Brown. 
 Moulded Snow. 
 Foamy Sauce. 
 
 
 Fourth Lesson. 
 Stock for Clear Soup. 
 Broiled Fish. 
 Tartar Sauce. 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 Fish Balls.  
 Macaroni or Spaghetti. 
 Fried Oysters or Scallops. 
 Thanksgiving Pudding. 
 Brandy Sauce. 
 
 
 

 
 Fifth Lesson. 
 Clear Soup. 
 Egg Balls. 
 Shadow Potatoes. 
 Baked Fish, Sauce Hollandaise. 
 Sticks and Rolls. 
 Cabbage Salad. 
 Boiled Dressing. 
 Caramel Custard. 
 Caramel Sauce. 
 
 
 Sixth Lesson. 
 Cream of Tomato Soup. 
 Braised Chicken. 
 Potato Balls. 
 Lima Beans. 
 Farina Cakes with Jelly. 
 Raised Muffins. 
 Custard Soufflé. 
 Creamy Sauce. 
 Cold Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 
 Seventh Lesson. 
 Purée of Fish. 
 Cusk à la Crême. 
 White Sauce. 
 Curried Lobster. 
 Potato Salad. 
 Apple or Lemon Pie. 
 Cream Cakes. 
 Quaker Bread. 
 
 
 Eighth Lesson. 
 Black Bean Soup. 
 Croûtons. 
 Roast Beef. 
 Franconia Potatoes. 
 Yorkshire Pudding. 
 Parsnip Fritters. 
 Spinach. 
 Coffee Cream. 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 
 
 Ninth Lesson. 
 Swiss Potato Soup. 
 Stuffed Leg of Mutton. 
 Currant Jelly Sauce. 
 Turkish Pilaf. 
 Turnips in White Sauce. 
 Tea Rolls. 
 Scalloped Apple. 
 Cream Pies. 
 
 
 Tenth Lesson. 
 Cream of Celery Soup. 
 Roast Chicken or 
 Fricassee. 
 Boiled Rice. 
 Cranberry Sauce. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 Spider Corn Cake. 
 Frosting. 
 Snow Pudding. 
 
 
 Eleventh Lesson. 
 White Soup. 
 Chicken Croquettes. 
 Broiled Squabs. 
 Apple Fritters. 
 Pinwheel Biscuits. 
 Lady Fingers. 
 Sponge Drops. 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 Orange or 
 Wine Jelly. 
 
 
 Twelfth Lesson. 
 Puff Paste. 
 Oyster Patties. 
 Raspberry Tarts. 
 Creamed Oysters. 
 Lobster Salad. 
 Mayonnaise Dre ssing. 
 Salted Almonds. 
 Ice Cream or 
 Sherbet. 
 
 
  
 
 

 DINNER COURSE. 
 Twelve Lessons for $18.00. Materials, $6.00. 
 
 First Lesson. 
 Oyster Soup. 
 Halibut à la Créole. 
 Chicken Sauté. 
 Creamed Cauliflower. 
 Rolls. 
 Almond Wafers. 
 Orange Trifle. 
 Café Noir. 
 
 
 Second Lesson. 
 St. Germain Soup. 
 Broiled Fillet of Beef. 
 Mushroom Sauce. 
 Mashed Sweet Potato. 
 Egg Salad. 
 Fig Pudding. 
 Yellow Sauce. 
 Coffee. 
 
 
 Third Lesson. 
 Oyster Gumbo Soup. 
 Baked Fish with Oysters. 
 French Hollandaise Sauce. 
 Hot Slaw. 
 Chicken Salad. 
 Cream Dressing. 
 Chocolate Nougat. 
 Boiled Frosting. 
 Ginger Cream. 
 
 
 Fourth Lesson. 
 Purée of Spinach. 
 Lobster Cream. 
 Boned Birds. 
 Creamed Celery. 
 Oysters à la D'Uxelles. 
 Potato Salad. 
 Burnt Almond Charlotte. 
 
 
 Fifth Lesson. 
 Bisque of Lobster. 
 Fillet of Beef. 
 Horseradish Sauce. 
 Potatoes au Gratin. 
 Banana Fritters. 
 Shrimp Salad. 
 Pudding à la Macédoine. 
 
 
 Sixth Lesson. 
 Potage à la Reine. 
 Puff Paste. 
 Patties. 
 Cream Horns. 
 Cheese Straws. 
 Pineapple Cream. 
 
 
 Seventh Lesson. 
 Cream of Asparagus Soup. 
 Lobster à la Newburg. 
 Chicken à la Providence. 
 Chocolate Cream Fritters. 
 Nut Sandwiches. 
 Victoria Punch. 
 Peanut Cookies. 
 
 
 Eighth Lesson. 
 Duchess Soup. 
 Halibut à la Poulette. 
 Queen of Muffins. 
 Larded Grouse. 
 Bread Sauce. 
 Ornamental Frosting. 
 Orange Ice. 
 
 
 

 
 Ninth Lesson. 
 Clam Soup with Poached Eggs. 
 Chicken Timbales. 
 Béchamel Sauce. 
 Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket. 
 Delmonico Potatoes. 
 Sponge Cake. 
 Baked Alaska. 
 
 
 Tenth Lesson. 
 Consommé. 
 Lobster Cutlets. 
 Chicken Soufflé. 
 Mushroom Sauce. 
 Brussels Sprouts. 
 Lemon Queens. 
 Bombe Glacée. 
 Parisian Sweets. 
 
 
 Eleventh Lesson. 
 Cream of Lettuce Soup. 
 Fillet of Sole. 
 Sauce Tartare. 
 Stewed Mushrooms. 
 Shredded Potatoes. 
 Lobster Salad. 
 Marshmallow Cake. 
 Café Parfait. 
 
 
 Twelfth Lesson. 
 Cream of Cauliflower Soup. 
 Swedish Timbales. 
 Creamed Sweetbreads. 
 Roast Duck. 
 Olive Sauce. 
 Fruit Punch. 
 Sand Tarts. 
 Frozen Pudding. 
 
 
 SPECIAL LESSONS IN COOKING, by previous appointment, price, $2.00 each. Materials extra.  SPECIAL LESSONS IN LAUNDRY WORK, by previous appointment, price, $2.00 each. Attention given to the doing up of shirts, silk and woollen underwear, colored clothes, table linen, laces, and chiffons.  Afternoon lessons given to Classes in Sick-room Cookery from 2 to 4.30 o'clock. Six lessons for $5.00. Materials, $1.00.  THE NORMAL COURSE extends from January to July. Tuition, $125: For circular and information, apply to the Principal.  DEMONSTRATION LECTURES given during the winter every Wednesday at 10 o'clock A.M. Tickets for course of 12 lectures, with reserved seat, $5.00. Single admission, 50 cents.  DEMONSTRATION LECTURES for Cooks, Wednesday and Friday evening at 7.45 o'clock. Admission, 25 cents.  ROOMS OPEN DAILY, from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.  
  
 
 

 INDEX. 
  ACID, Acetic,  14.  
 Butryic,  8.  
 Citric,  14.  
 Malic,  14.  
 Oleic,  8.  
 Oxalic,  14.  
 Palmitic,  8.  
 Pectic,  8.  
 Pectosic,  8.  
 Stearic,  8.  
 Tannic,  14.  
 Tartaric,  14.  
 Acidulated Water,  506.  
 Aërated Bread,  57.  
 After-Dinner Coffee (Black Coffee or Café Noir),  43.  
 Air,  17.  
 Alaska, Baked,  375.  
 Albumen,  2,   169.  
 Albumenized Milk,  496.  
 Allemande Sauce,  237.  
 Allspice,  15.  
 Almond Macaroons,  443.  
 Wafers,  411.  
 Almonds, Devilled,  471.  
 how to Blanch,  506.  
 how to Shred,  506.  
 Salted, I.,  445.  
 Salted, II.,  445.  
 Amber Pudding,  354.  
 Anchovy Butter,  244.  
 Canapés,  462.  
 Sandwiches,  459.  
 Sauce,  244.  
 Toast with Eggs,  95.  
 Angel Cake,  418.  
 Food,  377.  
 Apple Fritters I.,  303.  
 Fritters II.,  303.  
 Fritters III.,  303.  
 Ginger,  474.  
 Jelly,  477.  
 Meringue,  346.  
 Pie I.,  389.  
 Pie II.,  389.  
 Porcupine,  474.  
 Pudding, Steamed,  334.  
 Sauce,  335,   474.  
 Sauce, Spiced,  474.  
 Snow,  346.  
 Tapioca,  329.  
 Water,  494.  
 Apples, Baked,  473.  
 Baked Sweet,  474.  
 in Bloom,  349.  
 Canned,  482.  
 Scalloped,  330.  
 Apricot and Wine Jelly,  353.  
 Apricots, Frozen,  370.  
 Arrowroot,  6.  
 Bermuda,  6.  
 Gruel,  499.  
 Artichokes,  253.  
 Boiled,  253.  
 Fried,  254.  
 Stuffed,  254.  
 Asparagus,  254.  
 à la Hollandaise,  255.  
 Boiled,  254.  
 in Crusts,  255.  
 Hothouse,  254.  
 Oyster Bay,  254.  
 Soup,  113.  
 
 

 Asparagus on Toast,  255.  
 in White Sauce,  255.  
 Aspic, Birds in,  325.  
 Jelly,  323.  
 Tomatoes in,  324.  
 Tongue in,  324.  
  BACON,  185.  
 Breakfast,  209.  
 Chicken Livers with,  225.  
 and Liver,  185.  
 and Sweetbread,  207.  
 Baked Alaska,  375.  
 Baking Powder,  56.  
 Powder Biscuit I.,  70.  
 Powder Biscuit II.,  71.  
 Banana Cake,  428.  
 Cantaloupe,  360.  
 Custard,  346.  
 Fritters I.,  303.  
 Fritters II.,  304.  
 Ice Cream,  375.  
 Salad,  298.  
 Bananas, Baked,  475.  
 Sautéd,  475.  
 Banbury Tarts,  396.  
 Barberry Jelly,  479.  
 Barley Gruel,  500.  
 Water,  493.  
 Baskets, Neapolitan,  349.  
 Strawberry,  315.  
 Bass, Baked Fillets of,  152.  
 Batter,  164.  
 I.,  302.  
 II.,  302.  
 III.,  302.  
 IV.,  302.  
 V.,  303.  
 Eggs in,  96.  
 Batters and Fritters,  302.  
 Bavarian Cream, Pineapple,  363.  
 Cream (Quick),  363.  
 Cream, Strawberry,  363.  
 Beans,  255.  
 Boston Baked,  211.  
 Butter,  255.  
 Cranberry,  255.  
 Horticultural,  255.  
 Lima,  255.  
 Lima, Cream of,  256.  
 Beans, Shell,  255, 256.  
 Sieva,  255.  
 String,  255, 256.  
 Bean Soup, Baked,  122.  
 Soup, Black,  121.  
 Soup, Cream of Lima,  122.  
 Soup, String,  115.  
 Béarnaise Sauce,  246.  
 Béchamel Sauce,  243.  
 Yellow Sauce,  243.  
 Beef,  169.  
 à la Mode,  181.  
 Balls,  503.  
 Braised,  181.  
 Cannelon of,  178.  
 Corned,  183.  
 Corned Hash,  188.  
 Corned Hash with Beets,  189.  
 Corned, how to Boil,  183.  
 Cottage Pie,  188.  
 Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée,  177.  
 Divisions and Ways of Cooking Side of,  172.  
 Dried, with Cream,  189.  
 Essence, Bottled,  498.  
 Essence, Broiled,  498.  
 Fillets of, Broiled,  177.  
 Hamburg Steaks,  178.  
 Larded Fillet of,  180.  
 Meat Cakes Broiled,  178.  
 Mignon Fillet Sauté, with Sauce {illegible},  177.  
 Mignon Fillets, Sautéd, with Sauce Trianon,  178.  
 Other Parts of Creature Used for Food,  173.  
 Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce,  177.  
 Roast,  178, 179.  
 Roast, how to Carve,  180.  
 Roast, with Gravy,  187.  
 Roast, with Yorkshire Pudding,  180.  
 Sandwiches (Raw),  503.  
 Steak, Broiled,  176.  
 Steak, to Broil,  176.  
 
 

 Beef Steak Pie,  188.  
 Steak with Maître d' Hôtel Butter,  177.  
 Steak with Oyster Blanket,  177.  
 Stew with Dumplings,  182.  
 Tea, Bottled,  498.  
 Tea, Bottled,  498.  
 Tea, Frozen,  499.  
 Ways of Warming over,  187.  
 Beet Greens, Boiled,  263.  
 Beets, Boiled,  256.  
 Corned Beef Hash with,  189.  
 Pickled,  256.  
 Sugared,  256.  
 Berkshire Muffins,  75.  
 Berry Muffins I.,  72.  
 Muffins II.,  73.  
 Beverages,  36.  
 Birds in Aspic,  325.  
 to Bone,  27.  
 to Broil, in Buttered Cases,  503.  
 Dress for Broiling,  218.  
 Biscuit, Baking Powder, I.,  70.  
 Baking Powder, II.,  71.  
 Emergency,  71.  
 Maryland,  77.  
 Pin Wheel,  71.  
 Squash,  67.  
 Bisques,  102.  
 Ice Cream,  374.  
 Lobster,  120.  
 Mock,  126.  
 Blackberry Jam,  480.  
 Jelly,  479.  
 Pie,  390.  
 Blanc-Mange, Chocolate,  344.  
 Irish Moss,  344.  
 Blueberry Pie,  390.  
 Pudding, Steamed,  334.  
 Blueberries, Canned,  540.  
 Bluefish,  147.  
 à l'Italienne,  150.  
 Baked,  150.  
 Boiled Dinner,  184.  
 Boiler, Copper, to Clean,  509.  
 Bombe Glacée,  378.  
 Bonbons,  454.  
 to Dip,  455.  
 Boston Baked Beans,  211.  
 Brown Bread,  60.  
 Cookies,  408.  
 Boston Favorite Cake,  422.  
 Bouchées,  322.  
 Bouillon,  101,   106.  
 Clam,  117.  
 Brandy Sauce,  343.  
 Bread, Aërated,  57.  
 Baking of,  55.  
 Baking, Care of, after,  55.  
 Boards,  509.  
 Boston Brown,  60.  
 and Butter Folds,  458.  
 and Butter Pudding,  331.  
 Dough, how to Shape,  54.  
 Entire Wheat,  58.  
 Entire Wheat and Flour,  59.  
 Fermented,  53.  
 for Garnishing,  69.  
 German Coffee,  64.  
 Graham,  59.  
 Graham, Steamed,  61.  
 Griddle Cakes,  79.  
 Indian,  61.  
 Making of,  53.  
 Milk and Water,  57.  
 Omelet,  99.  
 Pudding,  330.  
 Quaker Oats,  59.  
 Rolled,  458.  
 Rye,  60.  
 Sauce,  247.  
 Stale, Uses for,  69.  
 Sticks,  62.  
 Third,  59.  
 Unfermented,  56.  
 Water,  57.  
 Breakfast Cakes,  70.  
 Menus,  512.  
 Puffs,  76.  
 Brewis,  69.  
 Bride's Cakes,  70.  
 Brioche (Coffee Cakes),  65.  
 Broom, Care of,  509.  
 Broth, Chicken,  502.  
 Mutton,  501.  
 Scotch,  197.  
 Brown Bread Ice Cream,  374.  
 Bread Milk Toast,  68.  
 Bread Sandwiches,  460.  
 Frosting,  438.  
 Sauce I.,  239.  
 Sauce II., (Espagnole),  239.  
 
 

 Brownies,  424.  
 Brussels Sprouts,  257.  
 Sprouts in White Sauce,  257.  
 Buckwheat Cakes,  79.  
 Buns,  65.  
 Hot Cross,  66.  
 Burn, Remedy for,  510.  
 Burnt Almond Charlotte,  361.  
 Almond Ice Cream,  374.  
 Butter,  11.  
 Anchovy,  244.  
 Clarified,  414.  
 Cocoanut,  8.  
 Composition of,  11.  
 to cream,  505.  
 Cups,  447.  
 Lemon,  161,   244.  
 Lobster,  245.  
 Maître d' Hôtel,  244.  
 Milk,  12.  
 Rules for Washing,  383.  
 Sauce, Drawn,  238.  
 Scotch,  448.  
 Taffy,  448.  
 Butterine,  8,   12.  
  CABBAGE,  257.  
 Boiled,  257.  
 Cole-Slaw,  258.  
 Escalloped,  257.  
 German,  258.  
 Hot Slaw,  258.  
 Cabinet Pudding,  356.  
 Café Frappe,  370.  
 Mousse,  379.  
 Parfait,  378.  
 Cake,  412-432.  
 Angel,  418.  
 Aunt Caddie's,  419.  
 Baking of,  415.  
 Banana,  428.  
 Boston Favorite,  422.  
 Bride's,  428.  
 Brownies,  424.  
 Butter, Making of,  413.  
 Chocolate,  429.  
 Chocolate Nougat,  421.  
 Cinnamon Bars,  443.  
 Coffee,  425.  
 Coffee, Rich,  425.  
 Cake, Corn-starch,  427.  
 Cream,  423,   429.  
 Cream, French,  430.  
 Cream, French Strawberry,  430.  
 Cup,  424.  
 Currant,  423.  
 Dipping of,  439.  
 éclairs,  430.  
 Election,  420.  
 Fig élair,  427.  
 Fillings and Frostings,  433-441.  
 Frosting of,  416.  
 Fruit, Dark,  425.  
 Fruit, English,  431.  
 Fruit, Light,  428.  
 Glazing of,  439.  
 Golden,  428.  
 Imperial,  432.  
 Jelly Roll,  419.  
 Lady Fingers,  418.  
 Lemon Queens,  430.  
 Lily,  426.  
 Marshmallow,  427.  
 Mocha,  429.  
 Nut,  426.  
 Nut, White,  428.  
 One Egg,  420.  
 Orange,  422.  
 Pans, to Prepare,  414.  
 Pans, Removing from,  416.  
 Pound,  431.  
 Prune Almond,  427.  
 Queen,  431.  
 Quick,  422.  
 Ribbon,  425.  
 Short, Fruit,  84.  
 Short, Strawberry, I.,  83.  
 Short, Strawberry, II.,  83.  
 Short, Strawberry, Rich,  84.  
 Snow,  426.  
 Spanish,  424.  
 Sponge,  417.  
 Sponge, Making of,  413.  
 Sponge, Cheap,  416.  
 Sponge, Cream,  417.  
 Sponge, Hot Water,  416.  
 Sponge Drops,  419.  
 Sunshine,  418.  
 Velvet,  423.  
 
 

 Cake, Walnut,  424.  
 Wedding,  432.  
 Cakes, Breakfast,  70.  
 Coffee (Brioche),  65.  
 Drop,  81.  
 Griddle,  77-79.  
 Rye Drop,  81.  
 Calf's Brains, to Prepare,  464.  
 Brains, with Scrambled Eggs,  464.  
 Head à la Terrapin,  187.  
 Heart,  187.  
 Canapés,  458,   461.  
 Anchovy,  462.  
 Cheese, I.,  461.  
 Cheese, II.,  462.  
 Fruit,  472.  
 Lorenzo,  462.  
 Peach,  472.  
 Sardine,  462.  
 Candy,  446-457.  
 Bonbons,  454.  
 Bonbons, to Dip,  455.  
 Buttercups,  447.  
 Butter Scotch,  448.  
 Butter Taffy,  448.  
 Chocolate Caramels,  449.  
 Chocolate Caramels, Nut,  449.  
 Chocolate Cream,  451.  
 Cocoanut Cream,  451.  
 Creamed Walnuts,  452.  
 Fondant,  453.  
 Fondant, Coffee,  454.  
 Fondant, Maple,  454.  
 Fondant White,  453.  
 French Nougat,  450.  
 Glacé Fruits,  456.  
 Glacé Nuts,  456.  
 Horehound,  448.  
 Ice Cream,  447.  
 Maple Sugar,  451.  
 Mints, Cream,  455.  
 Molasses,  446.  
 Molasses, Velvet,  446.  
 Nougatine Drops,  450.  
 Nut Bar,  449.  
 Nut Bar, Cream,  455.  
 Peanut Nougat,  449.  
 Peppermints,  453.  
 Pralines,  452.  
 Candy, Spun Sugar,  457.  
 Sultana Caramels,  452.  
 Tutti-Frutti,  456.  
 Vinegar,  447.  
 Wafers, Wintergreen,  450.  
 Walnuts, Creamed,  452.  
 Walnuts Dipped,  455.  
 Cane, Sugar, or Sucrose,  7.  
 Cannelon of Beef,  178.  
 Canning and Preserving,  473,   481.  
 Directions for,  482.  
 Fruits,  473.  
 Jars, to Sterilize,  482.  
 Cantaloupe, Banana,  360.  
 Canton Sherbet,  369.  
 Caper Sauce,  238.  
 Capers,  15.  
 Capon, Boiled, with Cauliflower sauce,  219.  
 Capsicum (Cayenne Pepper),  15.  
 Carafes, how to Wash,  507.  
 Caramel,  7.  
 Charlotte Russe,  361.  
 Custard,  348.  
 Frosting,  439.  
 Ice Cream,  374.  
 to make,  506.  
 Opera Frosting,  439.  
 Sauce,  348.  
 Caramels, Sultana,  452.  
 Carbohydrates,  8.  
 Carbon-dioxide,  6.  
 Cardinal Mousse with Iced Madeira Sauce,  380.  
 Punch,  371.  
 Carpets, Sweeping of,  508,   510.  
 Carrots,  258.  
 and Peas,  258.  
 Casein,  2.  
 vegetable,  2.  
 Casserole of Rice and Meat,  199.  
 Cassia,  15.  
 Cauliflower,  259.  
 à la Hollandaise,  259.  
 à la Parmesan,  259.  
 au Gratin,  259.  
 Creamed,  259.  
 Fritters,  304.  
 Sauce,  247.  
 Soup, Cream of,  114.  
 
 

 Caviare,  139.  
 Cayenne,  15.  
 Cecils with Tomato Sauce,  188.  
 Ceilings, Smoked, how to Clean,  510.  
 Celery,  259.  
 and Cabbage Salad,  293.  
 Curled,  299.  
 Dressed,  293.  
 Fried,  305.  
 Sauce,  243.  
 Soup,  122.  
 Soup, Cream of,  113.  
 in White Sauce,  260.  
 Cellulose,  8.  
 Cereal with Fruit,  87.  
 Cerealine Pudding (Mock Indian),  329.  
 Cereals,  85, 86.  
 Composition of,  85.  
 Table for Cooking,  87.  
 Chafing-Dish,  463.  
 Chicken and Oysters à la Métrepole,  232.  
 Chicken, Creamed,  231.  
 Chickens' Livers, Sautéd,  225.  
 Chickens' Livers with Madeira Sauce,  225.  
 Eggs à la Finnoise,  94.  
 Eggs à la Suisse,  94.  
 Eggs, Buttered,  95.  
 Eggs, Buttered, with Tomatoes,  96.  
 Eggs, Curried,  97.  
 Eggs, Scrambled,  95.  
 Eggs, Scrambled, with Anchovy Toast,  95.  
 Fish, Creamed,  159.  
 Halibut à la Rarebit,  154.  
 Lamb, Salmi of,  199.  
 List of Dishes for,  464.  
 Lobster, Buttered,  166.  
 Meat Cakes, Broiled,  178.  
 Mushrooms à la Sabine,  275.  
 Mushrooms, Sautèd,  274.  
 Chafing-Dish. Mushrooms, Stewed,  273.  
 Omelet, French,  100.  
 Omelet, Spanish,  100.  
 Oysters, Creamed,  162.  
 Recipes for,  464-472.  
 Soufflé au Rhum,  322.  
 Sweetbreads, Creamed,  297.  
 Sweetbreads, Sautéd,  207.  
 Toast, German,  69.  
 Champagne Sauce,  241.  
 Chapon,  288.  
 Charlotte, Burnt Almond,  361.  
 Chocolate,  361.  
 Orange,  362.  
 Russe,  359.  
 Russe, Caramel,  361.  
 Chaud-froid of Chicken,  326.  
 Cheese,  12.  
 Cheese Cakes,  396.  
 Canapés I.,  461.  
 Canapés II.,  462.  
 Croquettes,  308.  
 Fondue,  320.  
 Gnocchi à la Romaine,  306.  
 Milk,  13.  
 Milk and Cream,  13.  
 Omelet,  465.  
 Salad,  297.  
 Soufflé,  320.  
 Soufflé with Pastry,  323.  
 Straws,  396.  
 Various Kinds of,  13.  
 Wafers,  461.  
 Cherries, Canned,  483.  
 Cherry Fritters,  305.  
 Chestnut Croquettes,  308.  
 Gravy,  227.  
 Purée,  115,   261.  
 Soufflé,  333.  
 Stuffing,  227.  
 Chestnuts, Devilled,  472.  
 French and Italian,  261.  
 how to Shell,  506.  
 Chiccory or Endive,  260.  
 Chicken à la Merango,  222.  
 à la Providence,  220.  
 and Mushroom Croquettes,  312.  
 and Oyster Salad,  301.  
 and Oysters à la Métrople,  232.  
 
 

 Chicken, Baked,  223.  
 in Baskets,  231.  
 Blanquette of,  232.  
 Braised,  221.  
 Broiled,  219.  
 Broth,  502.  
 Chartreuse,  233.  
 Chaud-froid of,  336.  
 Creamed,  231.  
 Creamed, with Mushrooms,  231.  
 Croquettes I.,  312.  
 Croquettes II.,  312.  
 Curry,  224.  
 Cutlets of,  319.  
 Fillet, to,  218.  
 Fillet, Large,  219.  
 Fillet, Mignon,  219.  
 Force-Meat I.,  133.  
 Force-Meat II.,  312.  
 Fricassee,  221.  
 Fried,  222.  
 Gravy,  221.  
 Gumbo,  223.  
 Hollandaise,  234.  
 Jellied,  225.  
 Livers en Brochette,  319.  
 Livers, Sautéd,  225.  
 Livers with Bacon,  225.  
 Livers with Curry,  226.  
 Livers with Madeira Sauce,  225.  
 Luncheon,  232.  
 Maryland,  222.  
 Pie,  224.  
 with Potato Border,  231.  
 Roast,  220.  
 Salad I.,  300.  
 Salad II.,  301.  
 Salad Dressing,  289.  
 Sandwiches,  460.  
 Scalloped,  233.  
 Soufflé,  233.  
 Soup,  110.  
 Stew,  223.  
 Stuffing I.,  220.  
 Stuffing II.,  221.  
 Suprême of,  317.  
 Timbales,  317.  
 Chili Sauce,  487.  
 Chocolate,  45.  
 Blanc-Mange,  344.  
 Chocolate Bread Pudding,  331.  
 Cake,  420.  
 Caramels,  449.  
 Charlotte,  361.  
 Cookies,  409.  
 Cream,  345.  
 Cream Candy,  451.  
 Cream Filling,  433.  
 Filling,  431.  
 Fritters with Vanilla Sauce,  306.  
 Frosting,  437.  
 Frosting Boiled,  438.  
 Ice Cream I.,  372.  
 Ice Cream II,  373.  
 Nougat Cake,  421.  
 Pie,  422.  
 Sauce,  342.  
 Chondrin,  169.  
 Chops à la Signora,  193.  
 en Papillote,  193.  
 French,  191.  
 Kidney,  190.  
 Mutton, Breaded,  192.  
 Mutton, Broiled.  192.  
 Pan-broiled,  192.  
 Rib,  190.  
 Chow-Chow,  489.  
 Chowders,  127-129.  
 Clam,  128.  
 Connecticut,  128.  
 Corn,  127.  
 Fish,  127.  
 Lobster,  129.  
 Christmas Dinner, Menu for,  520.  
 Cider Jelly,  351.  
 Cinnamon,  15.  
 Cinnamon Bars,  443.  
 Clam and Oyster Soup,  119.  
 Bouillon,  117.  
 Chowder,  128.  
 Force-meat,  132.  
 Frappe,  370.  
 Soup, Cream of,  120.  
 Soup with Poached Eggs,  119.  
 Water,  501.  
 Clams,  140.  
 à la Newburg,  467.  
 Little Neck,  164.  
 Roasted,  165.  
 Steamed,  165.  
 
 

 Claret Punch,  47.  
 Sauce,  378.  
 Wine, to Remove Stains of,  507.  
 Clove,  15.  
 Cocoa,  43.  
 Brandy,  45.  
 Breakfast,  45.  
 Cordial,  498.  
 Cracked,  44.  
 Phillips',  497.  
 Reception,  45.  
 Shells,  44.  
 Cocoanut Butter,  8.  
 Cakes I.,  444.  
 Cakes II.,  444.  
 Cream Candy,  451.  
 Cream Cookies,  408.  
 Filling,  435.  
 Pie,  421.  
 Cod,  136.  
 Baked, with Oyster Stuffing,  150.  
 Scalloped,  159.  
 Steaks, Fried,  154.  
 Codfish, Salt, Creamed,  159.  
 Hash,  160.  
 with Salt Pork,  210.  
 Cod Liver Oil,  136.  
 Coffee,  38.  
 After-dinner (Black or Café Noir),  43.  
 Boiled,  41.  
 Buying of,  40.  
 Cake,  425.  
 Cake, Rich,  425.  
 Cakes (Brioche),  65.  
 Cream Filling,  433.  
 Filtered,  41.  
 Fondant,  454.  
 Ice Cream,  373.  
 Jelly,  351.  
 Mousse,  379.  
 for One,  42.  
 Pot of, Small,  42.  
 Wheat,  497.  
 Colbert, Consommé,  117.  
 Collagen,  169.  
 Columbian Pudding,  356.  
 Compote of Rice and Pears,  321.  
 of Rice with Peaches,  321.  
 Condés,  397.  
 Condiments,  14.  
 Confectioners' Frosting,  436.  
 Consommé,  101,   116.  
 à la Royal,  117.  
 au Parmesan,  117.  
 aux Pâtes,  117.  
 Colbert,  117.  
 Princess,  117.  
 with Vegetables,  117.  
 Cookery,  17.  
 Cookies, Boston,  408.  
 Chocolate,  409.  
 Cocoanut Cream,  408.  
 Cream,  407.  
 Ginger Snaps,  405.  
 Hermits,  407.  
 Imperial,  407.  
 Molasses,  405.  
 Molasses, Soft,  405.  
 Oatmeal,  406.  
 Peanut,  408.  
 Sand Tarts,  409.  
 Seed Cakes,  409.  
 Spice,  406.  
        { Almond,  411.  
        { Rolled,  410.  
 Wafers,{ Scotch,  406.  
        { Vanilla,  407.  
 Copper Boiler, to Clean,  509.  
 Corn à la Southern,  261.  
 Cake, Golden,  75.  
 Cake, Spider,  76.  
 Cake, Sweetened with Molasses,  75.  
 Cake, White,  75.  
 Chowder,  127.  
 Green,  260.  
 Green, Boiled,  260.  
 Griddle Cakes,  78.  
 Meal Gems,  74.  
 Meal Mush,  88.  
 Oysters,  261.  
 Soup,  123.  
 Starch,  6.  
 Starch Cake,  427.  
 Succotash,  260.  
 Corned Beef Hash,  188.  
 Beef Hash with Beets,  189.  
 Cottage Pudding,  331.  
 Crab Apple Jelly,  478.  
 
 

 Crab Mixture,  462.  
 Crabs,  143.  
 to Clean,  156.  
 Devilled,  318.  
 Oyster,  143.  
 Oyster, Fried,  318.  
 Soft-Shell,  143,   156.  
 Cracker Crumbs, Buttered,  505.  
 Crisp,  130.  
 Custard Pudding,  330.  
 Gruel,  501.  
 Cranberry Jelly,  476.  
 Pie,  390.  
 Pudding, Steamed,  334.  
 Sauce,  476.  
 Cream Bavarian, (Quick),  363.  
 Cake,  423.  
 Cakes,  429.  
 Cakes, French,  430.  
 Cakes, French Strawberry,  430.  
 Cookies,  407.  
 Filling,  433.  
 Fruit,  364.  
 Ginger,  362.  
 Heavy,  357.  
 Horns,  397.  
 Mints,  455.  
 Nut Bars,  455.  
 Pie,  391,   421.  
 Pineapple,  370.  
 Pineapple, Bavarian,  363.  
 Sauce,  237.  
 Sauce I.,  340.  
 Sauce II.,  340.  
 Spanish,  355.  
 Strawberry Bavarian,  363.  
 Tartar,  56.  
 Thin or Strawberry,  357.  
 Toast,  68.  
 to Whip,  357.  
 Whips,  351.  
 Creamy Sauce I.,  341.  
 Sauce II.,  341.  
 Crécy Soup,  108.  
 Crême aux Fruits,  357.  
 de Menthe Ice,  368.  
 Crescents,  443.  
 Croquettes,  308.  
 Cheese,  308.  
 Chestnut,  308.  
 Croquettes, Chicken, I.,  312.  
 Chicken, II.,  312.  
 Chicken and Mushroom,  312.  
 Fish,  159.  
 Lamb,  311.  
 Lobster,  310.  
 Oyster and Macaroni,  309.  
 Potato,  282.  
 Potato, French,  282.  
 Potato, Sweet,  284.  
 Rice and Tomato,  309.  
 Rice, with Jelly,  308.  
 Rice, Sweet,  309.  
 Salmon,  310.  
 Vanilla Ice Cream,  372.  
 Veal,  311.  
 Croustades of Bread,  321.  
 Rice,  321.  
 Croûtons (Duchess Crusts),  130.  
 Crullers,  83.  
 Crustaceans,  141.  
 Cucumber and Tomato Salad,  293.  
 Pickle,  487,   488.  
 Sauce,  243.  
 Cucumbers,  261.  
 Boiled,  262.  
 Fried,  262.  
 Sliced,  261.  
 Stuffed,  262.  
 Cup Cake,  424.  
 Currant Cake,  423.  
 Ice,  368.  
 Jelly,  478.  
 Jelly Sauce,  248.  
 Pie,  390.  
 and Raspberry Jelly,  478.  
 and Raspberry Preserve,  485.  
 Water,  494.  
 Currants, Spiced,  486.  
 Curried Eggs,  97.  
 Curry, Chicken,  224.  
 India,  204.  
 Lobster,  167.  
 Mutton,  196.  
 Curtain and Portiè Poles, how to Slip easily,  511.  
 Custard, Baked,  347.  
 Banana,  346.  
 Boiled,  345.  
 Caramel,  348.  
 
 

 Custard, Cup,  348.  
 Egg,  131.  
 Orange,  346.  
 Peach,  346.  
 Pie,  391.  
 Rennet,  504.  
 Royal,  131.  
 Soufflé,  332.  
 Cut Glass, Care of,  508.  
 Cutlets, with Asparagus Tips,  207.  
 Chicken,  319.  
 Lobster,  310.  
 Salmon,  310.  
 of Sweetbreads à la Victoria,  313.  
  DAMSON JELLY,  480.  
 Preserves,  484.  
 Dandelions,  263.  
 Date Pie,  391.  
 Dates, Stuffed, I.,  444.  
 Stuffed, II.,  444.  
 Davy Toaster,  464.  
 Delmonico Ice Cream,  377.  
 Potatoes,  285.  
 Demi-glacé aux Fraises,  380.  
 Desserts, Cold,  344.  
 Devilled Almon ds,  471.  
 Bones,  471.  
 Chestnuts,  472.  
 Crabs,  318.  
 Oysters,  317.  
 Scallops,  318.  
 Dextrine,  6.  
 Dextrose,  6.  
 Dinner, Boiled,  184.  
 Menus,  518.  
 Disinfectants,  510.  
 Doors and Drawers, to Prevent Creaking of,  511.  
 Doughnuts I.,  81.  
 II.,  82.  
 Raised,  82.  
 Doughs,  70.  
 Dover Egg Beater, Care of,  509.  
 Drinks, Fruit,  46-48.  
 Drop Cakes, Fried,  81.  
 Rye,  81.  
 Dropped Eggs (Poached),  93.  
 Dry Toast,  67.  
 Duchess Potatoes,  279.  
 Duchess Soup,  111.  
 Duck,  214.  
 Braised,  229.  
 Canvasback,  214.  
 Roasted,  229.  
 Salmi of,  235.  
 Varieties of,  214.  
 Dumplings,  182.  
  éCLAIRS,  430.  
 Eels, Fried,  155.  
 Egg Custard,  131.  
 Custard for Decorating,  325.  
 Farci,  97.  
 Nog I.,  496.  
 Nog II.,  496.  
 Nog III., or Hot Water Egg-Nog,  497.  
 Omelets,  98-100.  
 Plant, Fried, I.,  262.  
 Plant, Fried, II.,  262.  
 Plant, Stuffed,  263.  
 Salad I.,  296.  
 Salad II.,  297.  
 Sandwiches,  459.  
 Sauce I.,  238.  
 Sauce II.,  239.  
 Eggs,  92-100.  
 à la Buckingham,  95.  
 à la Caracas,  465.  
 à la Finoise,  94.  
 à la Goldenrod,  96.  
 à la Suisee,  94.  
 au Beurre Noir,  465.  
 au Gratin,  96.  
 Baked or Shi rred,  94.  
 Balls,  130.  
 in Batter,  96.  
 Boiled,  93.  
 Buttered,  95.  
 Buttered, with Tomatoes,  96.  
 Composition of,  92.  
 Curried,  97.  
 Freshness of, how to Determine,  93.  
 Fried,  96.  
 Ham and,  210.  
 Keeping, Ways of,  93.  
 Poached,  93.  
 Poached, with Clam Soup,  119.  
 
 

 Eggs, Scalloped,  97.  
 Scrambled,  95.  
 Scrambled, with Anchovy Toast,  95.  
 Scrambled, with Calf's Brains,  464.  
 Scrambled, with Tomato Sauce,  95.  
 Scrambled, with Sweetbreads,  464.  
 Shirred,  94.  
 Stuffed, in a Nest,  97.  
 Election Cake,  420.  
 Emergency Biscuit,  71.  
 Endive,  260.  
 English Fruit Cake,  431.  
 Monkey,  469.  
 Plum Pudding,  338.  
 Entrés,  302-327.  
 Apple Fritters I.,  303.  
 Apple Fritters II.,  303.  
 Apple Fritters, III.,  303.  
 Aspic Jelly,  323.  
 Banana Fritters I.,  303.  
 Banana Fritters II.,  304.  
 Birds in Aspic,  325.  
 Bouchées,  322.  
 Cauliflower Fritters,  304.  
 Celery, Fried,  305.  
 Chaud-froid of Chicken,  326.  
 Cheese Croquettes,  308.  
 Cheese Fondue,  320.  
 Cheese Soufflé with Pastry,  323.  
 Cherry Fritters,  305.  
 Chestnut Croquettes,  308.  
 Chicken in Aspic,  324.  
 Chicken in Croquettes I.,  312.  
 Chicken in Croquettes II.,  312.  
 Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes,  312.  
 Chicken Timbales,  317.  
 Chickens' Livers en Brochette,  319.  
 Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce,  306.  
 Compote of Rice with Peaches,  321.  
 Compote of Rice and Pears,  321.  
 Croustades of Bread,  321.  
 Entreés, Cutlets of Chicken,  319.  
 Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria,  313.  
 Devilled Crabs,  318.  
 Devilled Oysters,  317.  
 Devilled Scallops,  318.  
 Farina Cakes with Jelly,  306.  
 Fillets of Game,  319.  
 Fruit Fritters,  304.  
 Gnocchi à la Romaine,  306.  
 Halibut Timbales,  315.  
 Lamb Croquettes,  311.  
 Lobster Cream,  316.  
 Lobster Croquettes,  310.  
 Lobster Cutlets,  310.  
 Lobster Timbales,  316.  
 Macaroni Timbales,  315.  
 Omelet Soufflé,  322.  
 Orange Fritters,  304.  
 Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes,  309.  
 Oyster Crabs, Fried,  3 18.  
 Patties,  322.  
 Queen Fritters,  307.  
 Ramequins Soufflés,  320.  
 Rice and Tomato Croquettes,  309.  
 Rice Croquettes with Jelly,  308.  
 Rice Croquettes, Sweet,  309.  
 Rice Croustades,  321.  
 Rice Timbales,  315.  
 Rissoles,  323.  
 Rum Cakes,  326.  
 Salmon Croquettes,  310.  
 Salmon Cutlets,  310.  
 Soufflé au Rhum,  322.  
 Spaghetti Timbales,  315.  
 Sponge Fritters,  307.  
 Strawberry Baskets,  315.  
 Suprême of Chicken,  317.  
 Swedish Timbales,  313.  
 Tomato Fritters,  305.  
 Tomatoes in Aspic,  324.  
 Tongue in Aspic,  324.  
 Veal Croquettes,  311.  
 Vol-au-vents,  322.  
 Watrouskis,  320.  
 Espagnole (Brown Sauce II.),  239.  
  FADGES,  77.  
 Fancy Cakes and Confections,  442.  
 
 

 Farina Cakes with Jelly,  306.  
 Gruel,  499.  
 Soup,  110.  
 Fat,  8,   170.  
 to Clarify,  23.  
 for Frying,  23.  
 Margarin,  8.  
 Olein (Liquid),  8.  
 Palmatin (Semi-solid),  8.  
 Stearin (Solid),  8.  
 Suet,  8,   170.  
 to try out,  24.  
 Fats and Oils,  8.  
 Fermentation,  52.  
 Acetic,  53.  
 Alcoholic,  53.  
 Lactic,  53.  
 Fermented Bread,  53.  
 Milk (Koumiss),  11,   496.  
 Fibrin,  2,   169.  
 Figaro Sauce,  246.  
 Fig Cups,  472.  
 éclair,  427.  
 Filling,  435.  
 Fillet Chicken, to,  218.  
 Fillets of Bass or Halibut, Baked,  152.  
 of Beef, Broiled,  177.  
 of Game,  319.  
 of Halibut à la Poulette,  153.  
 of Halibut with Brown Sauce,  153.  
 Larded,  180.  
 Mignon, Sautéd, with Sauce Figaro,  177.  
 Mignon, Sautéd, with Sauce Trianon,  178.  
 Fillings, Chocolate,  434.  
 Chocolate Cream,  433.  
 Cocoanut,  435.  
 Cocoanut Lemon Cream,  435.  
 Cream,  433.  
 Cream, Coffee,  433.  
 Cream, French,  433.  
 Fig,  435.  
 Lemon,  434.  
 Lemon Cocoanut Cream,  435.  
 Marshmallow Paste,  435.  
 Nut or Fruit,  434.  
 Orange,  434.  
 Pistachio Paste,  435.  
 Fillings, Prune Almond,  427,   436.  
 Strawberry,  434.  
 Finnan Haddie,  137.  
 Haddie, Baked,  160.  
 Haddie, Broiled,  161.  
 Fire,  18.  
 how to Build,  19.  
 Fish,  135-168.  
 à la Crême,  158.  
 à la Provençle,  468.  
 to Bake,  146.  
 Balls,  160.  
 Blue (Pomatomide),  136, 137.  
 to Bone,  144.  
 to Broil,  146.  
 Chowder,  127.  
 to Clean,  144.  
 Composition of,  147.  
 Cooked in Boiling Water,  145.  
 Cooking, to Prepare for,  144.  
 Cooking, Ways of,  145.  
 Croquettes,  159.  
 Eels,  136.  
 to Fillet,  144.  
 Finnan Haddie,  137.  
 Flounder,  136, 137.  
 Freshness of, to Determine,  135.  
 to Fry,  146.  
 Haddock,  136.  
 Halibut (Pleuronectidae),  137.  
 Hash,  158.  
 Herring,  136,   139.  
 Mackerel,  136,   138.  
 Mackerel, Snapping,  138.  
 Mackerel, Spanish,  138.  
 Perch,  136.  
 Salmon,  136,   138.  
 Shad, Jack,  139.  
 Shad, Roe,  139.  
 Shell,  139.  
 to Skin,  144.  
 Smelts,  136, 137.  
 Sole,  145.  
 Stock,  119.  
 Stock, Soups with,  117.  
 Stuffing I.,  149.  
 Stuffing II.,  149.  
 
 

 Fish, Sword,  136.  
 Trout,  136, 137.  
 Turban of,  158.  
 Turbot,  137.  
 Ways of Using Remnants of Cooked,  158.  
 White,  137.  
 White and Red Blooded,  136.  
 Five o'clock Tea,  38.  
 Flavoring Extracts,  16.  
 Extracts and Wine,  506.  
 Flaxseed Lemonade,  495.  
 Floor Polish,  510.  
 Florentine Meringue,  397.  
 Flounder, Fried Fillets,  155.  
 Flour,  49.  
 Entire Wheat,  52.  
 Gluten,  52.  
 Gruel,  499.  
 Wheat,  49,   85.  
 Flûtes,  327.  
 Foamy Sauce I.,  341.  
 Sauce II.,  341.  
 Fondant,  453.  
 Coffee,  454.  
 Icing,  439.  
 Maple,  454.  
 White,  453.  
 Food,  1.  
 Carbohydrates,  2.  
 Fats and Oils,  2,   8.  
 Inorganic,  1.  
 Organic,  1.  
 Proportions of, Correct,  2.  
 Proteid,  2.  
 Ration, Daily Average,  3.  
 Salts,  5.  
 Water,  4.  
 Foods, Liquid,  491.  
 Semi-solid,  492.  
 Solid,  492.  
 Force-meats,  130.  
 Chicken, I.,  133.  
 Chicken, II.,  133.  
 Clam,  132.  
 Fish,  132.  
 Oyster,  133.  
 Salmon,  133.  
 Fowl, Boiled,  219.  
 Fowl, to Cut up,  216.  
 to Truss,  217.  
 Frappé, Café,  370.  
 Clam,  370.  
 Pineapple,  369.  
 French Dressing,  288.  
 Rusks,  64.  
 Fritter Beans,  131.  
 Fritters, Apple, I.,  303.  
 Apple, II.,  303.   Apple, III.,  303.  
 Banana, I.,  303.  
 Banana, II.,  304.  
 Cauliflower,  304.  
 Celery, Fried,  305.  
 Cherry,  305.  
 Chocolate, with Vanilla Sauce,  306.  
 Fruit,  304.  
 Orange,  304.  
 Parsnip,  266.  
 Queen,  307.  
 Salsify,  266.  
 Sponge,  307.  
 Tomato,  305.  
 Frogs,  143.  
 Hind Legs,  156.  
 Frostings,  429.  
 Boiled,  437.  
 Brown,  438.  
 Caramel,  439.  
 Caramel, Opera,  439.  
 Chocolate,  437.  
 Chocolate, Boiled,  438.  
 Confectioners',  436.  
 Fondant Icing,  439.  
 Gelatine,  436.  
 Maple Sugar,  438.  
 Maple Sugar Cream,  438.  
 Marshmallow Paste,  435.  
 Milk,  438.  
 Orange,  436.  
 Ornamental, I.,  439.  
 Ornamental, II.,  440.  
 Pistachio Paste,  435.  
 Plain,  436.  
 White Mountain Cream,  437.  
 Fruit Cake, Dark,  426.  
 Cake, Light,  428.  
 Canapé,  472.  
 
 

 Fruit Chartreuse,  355.  
 Cream,  364.  
 Drinks,  46-48.  
 Fritters,  364.  
 Glacê,  456.  
 Punch I.,  47.  
 Punch II.,  47.  
 Rolls,  71.  
 Salad I.,  350.  
 Salad II.,  350.  
 Salad with Wine Dressing,  350.  
 Sandwiches,  460.  
 Short Cake,  84.  
 Soufflé,  333.  
 Stains, to Remove,  507.  
 Fruits,  13.  
 Canning and Preserving,  473,   481.  
 Fuel,  18.  
 Kinds of,  18.  
 Furniture, to Remove Spots from,  507.  
 and Floors, to Polish,  509.  
  GAME, Fillets of,  319.  
 Gelatin,  169, 170.  
 Gelatine Frosting,  436.  
 Gems, Corn Meal,  74.  
 German Coffee Bread,  64.  
 Toast,  69.  
 Giblet Gravy,  221.  
 Giblets, to Clean,  217.  
 Ginger,  15.  
 African,  15.  
 Cochin,  15.  
 Jamaica,  15.  
 Gingerbread, Cambridge,  403.  
 Fairy,  404.  
 Gossamer,  403.  
 Milk, Sour,  402.  
 Molasses, Soft,  402.  
 Sugar, Hard,  404.  
 Sugar, Soft,  403.  
 Water, Hot,  402.  
 Gingerbreads, Cookies, and Wafers,  402.  
 Ginger Cream,  362.  
 Ice Cream,  375.  
 Pudding,  335.  
 Punch,  47.  
 Sandwiches,  460.  
 Ginger Snaps,  405.  
 Glacé Fruits,  456.  
 Nuts,  456.  
 Glass, Cut, Care of,  508.  
 Glassware, to Prevent Breaking,  508.  
 Glossary,  528.  
 Glucose (Grape Sugar),  7.  
 Gluten,  2,   52.  
 Glyeogen (Animal Starch),  6.  
 Gnocchi à la Romaine,  306.  
 Golden Cake,  428.  
 Corn Cake,  75.  
 Goose,  214.  
 Roast, with Potato Stuffing,  228.  
 to Truss,  228.  
 Graham Bread,  59,   61.  
 Muffins I.,  74.  
 Muffins II.,  74.  
 Pop-Overs,  76.  
 Pudding,  336.  
 Granite Ware, to Clean,  507.  
 Grape Jelly,  479.  
 Jelly, Green,  479.  
 Juice,  494.  
 Marmalade,  480.  
 Sugar (or Glucose),  7.  
 Grass Stains, to Remove,  508.  
 Gravy,  221,   227.  
 Chestnut,  227.  
 Giblet,  221.  
 Roast Beef,  179.  
 Turkey,  227.  
 Grease Spots, to Remove,  508.  
 Greens,  263.  
 Beet,  263.  
 Dandelion,  263.  
 Griddle-Cakes,  77.  
 Bread,  79.  
 Buckwheat Cakes,  79.  
 Corn,  78.  
 Milk, Sour,  77.  
 Milk, Sweet,  77.  
 Rice, I.,  78.  
 Rice, II.,  78.  
 Entire Wheat,  78.  
 Grill, Union,  466.  
 Grilled Muffins,  66.  
 Grouse (Prairie Chicken),  215.  
 Larded,  229.  
 Gruel, Arrowroot,  499.  
 
 

 Gruel, Barley,  500.  
 Cracker,  501.  
 Farina,  499.  
 Flour,  499.  
 Indian,  500.  
 Oatmeal, I.,  500.  
 Oatmeal, II.  500.  
 Gum Arabic,  8.  
 Tragacanth,  8.  
  HADDOCK,  136.  
 Baked, with Oyster Stuffing,  150.  
 Boiled,  148.  
 Halibut à la Poulette,  153.  
 à la Rarebit,  154.  
 Baked Fillets,  152.  
 Baked, with Lobster Sauce,  151.  
 Baked, with Tomato Sauce,  151.  
 Baked, with Stuffing,  148.  
 Chicken, Broiled,  148.  
 Chicken, Sandwiches of,  154.  
 Fillets, with Brown Sauce,  153.  
 Fillets, Fried,  155.  
 Little (Turbot),  137.  
 Soup,  123.  
 Timbales,  315.  
 Ham, Boiled,  210.  
 Broiled,  210.  
 and Eggs, Fried,  210.  
 Roast, with Champagne Sauce,  211.  
 Sandwiches,  459.  
 Shredded, with Currant Jelly Sauce,  211.  
 Sandwiches,  459.  
 Shredded, with Currant Jelly Sauce,  470.  
 Sugar Cured,  208.  
 Westphalian,  211.  
 Hard Wood Floors and Furniture, to Polish,  509.  
 Harlequin Ice Cream,  375.  
 Harvard Pudding,  335.  
 Hash, Corned Beef,  188.  
 Corned Beef, with Beets,  189.  
 Salted Codfish,  160.  
 Heads, Pigs',  208.  
 Heat,  17.  
 Hermits,  407.  
 Hocks,  208.  
 Hollandaise Punch,  371.  
 Sauce I.,  245.  
 Sauce II.,  245.  
 Hominy, Fried,  88.  
 Mush,  502.  
 Horehound Candy,  448.  
 Horseradish,  15.  
 Sauce I.,  246.  
 Sauce II.,  247.  
 Horseshoes,  444.  
 Hot Cross Buns,  66.  
 Puddings,  328-338.  
 Housekeepers, Helpful Hints to Young,  505-511.  
 Huckleberries, Canned,  484.  
 Hunters' Pudding,  337.  
 Hygienic Soup,  110.  
  ICE CHEST, care of,  509.  
 Ice Cream Candy,  447.  
 Ice Creams,  365.  
 Angel Food,  377.  
 Baked Alaska,  375.  
 Banana,  375.  
 Bisque,  374.  
 Bombe Glacé,  378.  
 Brown Bread,  374.  
 Burnt Almond,  374.  
 Café Parfait,  378.  
 Caramel,  374.  
 Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce,  380.  
 Chocolate, I.,  372.  
 Coffee,  373.  
 Coffee Mousse,  379.  
 Croquettes, Vanilla,  372.  
 Delmonico, with Angel Food,  377.  
 Demi-glacé aux Fraises,  380.  
 Freeze, how to,  367.  
 Ginger,  375.  
 Macaroon,  374.  
 Mould, how to,  367.  
 Mould, how to Line,  367.  
 Mousse,  365.  
 Mousse Marron,  380.  
 Neapolitan or Harlequin,  375.  
 Philadelphia,  365.  
 Pineapple,  373.  
 Pistachio Bisque,  375.  
 Plain,  365.  
 
 

 Ice Creams, Strawberry,  373.  
 Strawberry Mousse,  379.  
 Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce,  377.  
 Vanilla, I.,  372.  
 Vanilla, II.,  372.  
 Iced Tea,  38.  
 Ices,  365.  
 Crême de Menthe,  368.  
 Currant,  368.  
 Frappé,  365.  
 Lemon,  367.  
 Orange,  367.  
 Pomegranate,  368.  
 Punch,  365.  
 Raspberry,  368.  
 Raspberry and Currant,  368.  
 Sherbet,  365.  
 Sorbet,  365.  
 Strawberry,  368.  
 Water,  365.  
 Imperial Cake,  432.  
 Cookies,  407.  
 Granum,  501.  
 Soup,  112.  
 Sticks,  130.  
 India Curry,  204.  
 Indian Bread,  61.  
 Gruel,  500.  
 Meat Mush,  502.  
 Pudding,  328.  
 Ingredients, to Beat,  29.  
 to Combine,  29.  
 to Cut and Fold,  29.  
 Measuring,  28.  
 to Stir,  29.  
 Ink Stains, to Remove,  508.  
 Instruction, Course of, Practice Lessons,  531.  
 Irish Moss Blanc-Mange,  344.  
 Moss Lemonade,  495.  
 Stew,  197.  
 Iron K ettle (New). Care of,  509.  
 Rust, to Remove,  508.  
 Italian Meringue,  378.  
  JAMS,  480.  
 Black Berry,  480.  
 Raspberry,  480.  
 Jellied Prunes,  353.  
 Jellied Walnuts,  353.  
 Jellies  477.  
 Jelly Apple,  477.  
 Apricot and Wine,  353.  
 Aspic,  323.  
 Bag, to Make,  477.  
 Barberry,  479.  
 Blackberry,  479.  
 Cider,  351.  
 Coffee,  351.  
 Crab Apple,  478.  
 Cranberry,  476.  
 Currant,  478.  
 Currant and Raspberry,  478.  
 Damson,  480.  
 Glasses, in,  352.  
 Glasses, to Cover,  477.  
 Glasses, to Prepare,  477.  
 Grape,  479.  
 Grape, Green,  479.  
 Lemon,  351.  
 Omelet,  99.  
 Orange,  351.  
 Quince,  478.  
 Raspberry,  479.  
 Roll,  419.  
 Russian,  352.  
 Sandwiches,  461.  
 Venison,  479.  
 Wine, I.,  352.  
 Wine, II.,  352.  
 Julienne Soup,  107.  
  KIDNEYS, Lambs', I.,  197.  
 Lambs', II.,  198.  
 Knives, Care of,  508.  
 Kohl-rabi,  250.  
 Kola Nut,  43.  
 Kornlet Soup,  124.  
 Koumiss (fermented Milk),  11,   496.  
  LACTOSE (Milk Sugar),  7.  
 Lady Fingers,  418.  
 Lamb,  190.  
 Blanquette of,  199.  
 Breast of,  200.  
 Broiled,  192.  
 Croquettes,  311.  
 Crown of,  196.  
 Division of,  190.  
 
 

 Lamb, Fricassee of, with Brown Gravy,  196.  
 Kidneys I.,  197.  
 Kidneys II.,  198.  
 Leg of,  191.  
 Minced on Toast,  198.  
 Roast,  195.  
 Salmi of  199.  
 Scalloped,  198.  
 Stock,  101.  
 Yearling,  190.  
 Lard,  8.  
 Legumen,  2.  
 Legumes,  251.  
 Lemonade,  46,   495.  
 Flaxseed,  495.  
 Irish Moss,  495.  
 Pineapple,  46.  
 Lemon Butter,  161,   244.  
 Cocoanut Crem,  435.  
 Filling,  434.  
 Ice,  367.  
 Jelly,  351.  
 Pie I.,  391.  
 Pie II.,  391.  
 Pie III.,  392.  
 Pie IV.,  392.  
 Queens,  430.  
 Sauce I.,  339.  
 Sauce II.,  339.  
 Sou fflé,  333.  
 Sticks,  398.  
 Lenton Salad,  297.  
 Lettuce,  263.  
 and Cucumber Salad,  292.  
 Curly,  264.  
 Dressed,  292.  
 and Radish Salad,  292.  
 Sandwiches,  459.  
 Soup, Cream of,  114.  
 Tennis Ball,  264.  
 and Tomato Salad,  292.  
 Levulose (Fruit Sugar),  7.  
 Lily Cake,  426.  
 Lime Water,  10.  
 Listerine,  510.  
 Liver and Bacon,  185.  
 Braised,  185.  
 Broiled,  185.  
 Lobsters,  165.  
 Lobster à la Americane,  168.  
 à la Delmonico,  466.  
 à la Newburg,  467.  
 Bisque,  120.  
 Butter,  245.  
 Buttered,  166.  
 Chowder,  129.  
 Cream,  316.  
 Croquettes,  310.  
 Curried,  167.  
 Cutlets,  310.  
 Devilled,  167.  
 Farci,  167.  
 Fried,  165.  
 Live, to Broil,  168.  
 Live, to Split,  168.  
 to Open,  142.  
 Plain,  165.  
 Salad I.,  298.  
 Salad II.,  299.  
 Salad III.,  299.  
 Sandwiches,  460.  
 Sauce I.,  245.  
 Sauce II.,  246.  
 Scalloped,  166.  
 to Select,  142.  
 Stuffed à la Béchamel,  167.  
 Timbales,  316.  
 Loin or Kidney Chops,  190.  
 London Sherbet,  371.  
 Luncheon Menus,  514.  
 Rolls,  63.  
  MACARONI,  86.  
 à l' Italienne,  91.  
 à la Milanaise,  91.  
 Baked,  90.  
 Baked, with Cheese,  90.  
 Boiled,  90.  
 Oysters and,  163.  
 Soup,  107.  
 Timbales,  315.  
 with Tomato Sauce,  91.  
 with White Sauce,  90.  
 Macaroon Cream,  356.  
 Dust, to Prepare,  506.  
 Ice Cream,  374.  
 Macaroons,  442.  
 Almond,  443.  
 Mace,  15.  
 
 

 Macédoine Salad,  295.  
 Mackerel, Baked,  151.  
 Madeira Sauce, Iced,  380.  
 Maître d' Hôtel Butter,  244,   279.  
 d' Hôtel Potatoes,  279.  
 Maple Fondant,  454.  
 Sugar Candy,  451.  
 Sugar Frosting,  438.  
 Margarin,  8.  
 Marinate, how to,  288.  
 Marmalades,  480.  
 Grape,  480.  
 Orange,  481.  
 Orange Rhubarb,  481.  
 Quince,  480.  
 Marrow-Bone,  8.  
 Marshmallow Cake,  427.  
 Maryland Biscuit,  77.  
 Mayonnaise Dressing I.,  290.  
 Dressing II.,  291.  
 Dressing, Colored,  291.  
 Dressing, Cream,  291.  
 Measure, how to,  27.  
 Measuring Butter, Lard, etc.,  29.  
 Dry Ingredients,  28.  
 Liquids,  29.  
 Meat,  169.  
 Composition of,  169.  
 Effect of Temperature on Cooking of,  178.  
 Glaze,  506.  
 Table Showing Composition of,  175.  
 Melon Rind, Preserved,  486.  
 Menus for Breakfasts, Lunches, and Dinners,  512-524.  
 Meringue, Apple,  346.  
 Florentine,  397.  
 Glacées, or Kisses,  400.  
 Italian,  378.  
 Mushrooms,  401.  
 Nut,  401.  
 Panachées,  401.  
 Peach,  346.  
 Meringues for Pies, Puddings, and Desserts,  399.  
 Meringues I.,  400.  
 Meringues II.,  400.  
 Meringues III.,  400.  
 Milk,  9.  
 Milk, Albumenized,  11,   496.  
 Composition of,  9.  
 Condensed,  10.  
 Fermented (Koumiss),  11,   496.  
 Frosting,  438.  
 Malted,  10.  
 Modified,  11.  
 Peptonized,  11.  
 Punch,  497.  
 to Scald,  505.  
 Sherbet,  369.  
 for the Sick,  11.  
 why it sours,  10.  
 Sterilized,  495.  
 Toast I.,  68.  
 Toast II.,  68.  
 and Water Bread,  58.  
 Mince Meat, English,  393.  
 Meat without Liquor,  394.  
 Pies,  393.  
 Mineral Matter,  170.  
 Waters,  5.  
 Mint Julep,  46.  
 Sauce,  248.  
 Mirrors and Windows, to Wash,  507.  
 Mocha Cake,  429.  
 Mock Mince Pie,  394.  
 Turtle Soup,  116.  
 Moisture,  17.  
 Molasses Candy,  446.  
 Candy, Velvet,  446.  
 Cookies,  405.  
 Cookies, Soft,  405.  
 Drop Cakes,  404.  
 Sauce,  339.  
 Mollusks, Bivalve,  139.  
 Mont Blanc,  357.  
 Moulded Snow,  345.  
 Mousse,  365.  
 Coffee,  379.  
 Marron,  380.  
 Strawberry,  379.  
 Mucilage,  8.  
 Muffins, Berkshire,  75.  
 Berry, I., (without Eggs),  72.  
 Berry, II.,  73.  
 Graham, I.,  74.  
 Graham, II.,  74.  
 Grilled,  66.  
 Oatmeal,  73.  
 
 

 Muffins, Oatmeal, Raised,  67.  
 One Egg, I.,  71.  
 One Egg, II.,  72.  
 Quaker,  73.  
 Queen of,  72.  
 Raised,  66.  
 Rice,  73.  
 Rye, I.,  74.  
 Rye II.,  74.  
 Twin Mountain,  72.  
 Mulligatawny Soup,  115.  
 Mush, Corn Meal, Fried,  88.  
 Hominy, Fried,  502.  
 Indian Meal,  502.  
 Oatmeal,  502.  
 Oatmeal, with Apples,  87.  
 Quaker Oats,  503.  
 Rye Meal,  502.  
 Mushes, Fried,  88.  
 Mushroom Sauce (Brown) I.,  239.  
 Sauce (Brown) II.,  239.  
 Mushrooms,  252.  
 à l' Algonquin,  275.  
 à la Sbine,  275.  
 Baked in Cream,  274.  
 Broiled,  274.  
 Sautéd,  274.  
 Stewed in Cream,  274.  
 Stuffed,  275.  
 Mussels,  140.  
 Mustard,  15.  
 how to Mix,  506.  
 Mutton,  190.  
 à la Signora,  193.  
 Broth,  501.  
 Broth, Scotch,  197.  
 Chops,  192.  
 Chops, Breaded,  192.  
 Chops, Pan-broiled,  192.  
 with Currant Jelly Sauce,  470.  
 Curry,  136.  
 Cutlets à la Maintenon,  194.  
 English, South Down,  190.  
 Flavor of,  190.  
 Leg, Broiled,  194.  
 Leg, Braised,  194.  
 Minced,  471.  
 Saddle of,  191.  
 Saddle of, to Carve,  195.  
 Mutton, Warming over, Ways of,  198.  
 Myosin,  169.  
  NAPOLEONS,  398.  
 Neapolitan Baskets,  349.  
 or Harlequin Ice Cream,  375.  
 Nesselrode Pudding,  379.  
 Noodles,  131.  
 Norwegian Prune Pudding,  349.  
 Nougatine Drops,  450.  
 Nut Cakes,  426.  
 and Celery Salad,  297.  
 and Cheese Sandwiches,  460.  
 Bar,  449.  
 Chocolate Caramels,  449.  
 or Fruit Filling,  434.  
 Meringues,  401.  
 Salad,  297.  
 Nutmeg,  15.  
 Nuts, Glacé,  456.  
  OATMEAL COOKIES,  406.  
 Gruel I.,  500.  
 Gruel II.,  500.  
 Muffins,  73.  
 Mush,  502.  
 Mush with Apples,  87.  
 Water,  493.  
 Oil Dressing I.,  290.  
 Dressing II.,  290.  
 Oils, Animal,  8.  
 Cod-Liver,  9,   136.  
 in Egg Yolk,  9.  
 Essential, where Found,  9.  
 Fixed, where Found,  9.  
 Vegetable, where Found,  9.  
 Okra,  250, 251.  
 Olcomargarine,  8.  
 Olive Sauce,  240.  
 Omelet, Bread,  99.  
 Cheese,  465.  
 to Fold and Turn,  98.  
 French,  100.  
 Jelly,  99.  
 with Meat or Vegetables,  99.  
 Orange,  99.  
 Oyster,  99.  
 Plain,  98.  
 Rich,  100.  
 Soufflé,  322.  
 
 

 Omelet, Spanish,  100.  
 Omelet,  98.  
 One Egg Cake,  420.  
 Onions,  264.  
 Boiled,  264.  
 in Cream,  265.  
 Fried,  265.  
 Juice, to Extract,  505.  
 Pickled,  489.  
 Scalloped,  265.  
 Stuffed,  265.  
 Opera Caramel Frosting,  439.  
 Orangeade,  46,   495.  
 Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade,  481.  
 Baskets,  362.  
 Cake,  422.  
 Charlotte,  362.  
 Custard,  346.  
 Filling,  434.  
 Fritters,  304.  
 Frosting,  436.  
 Ice,  367.  
 Jelly,  351.  
 Jelly in Ambush,  363.  
 Marmalade,  481.  
 Omelet,  99.  
 Puffs,  332.  
 to Remove Juice from,  351.  
 Salad,  350.  
 Sauce,  240,   340.  
 Sticks,  398.  
 Trifle,  360.  
 Ornamental Frosting I.,  439.  
 Frosting II.,  440.  
 Oxalic Acid, Care with,  509.  
 Ox-tail Soup,  108.  
 Oyster and Clam Soup,  119.  
 Crabs, Fried,  318.  
 Force-meat,  133.  
 Fricassee,  162.  
 Gumbo,  119.  
 and Macaroni Croquettes,  309.  
 Omelet,  99.  
 Plant (Salsify), Creamed,  265.  
 Rarebit,  469.  
 Sandwiches,  460.  
 Sauce,  243.  
 Soup,  118.  
 Soup, French,  118.  
 Oyster Stew,  118.  
 Stuffing,  150.  
 Toast,  163.  
 Oysters,  139,   147,   161.  
 à la D' Uxelles,  466.  
 à la Thorndike,  466.  
 to Block Ice for,  161.  
 Broiled,  163.  
 in Brown Sauce,  162.  
 to Clean,  140.  
 Creamed,  162.  
 to Clean,  140.  
 Creamed,  162.  
 Devilled,  317.  
 Fancy Roast,  161.  
 Fricassee,  162.  
 Fried,  164.  
 Fried in Batter,  164.  
 on Half Shell,  161.  
 and Macaroni,  163.  
 to Open,  140.  
 Panned,  161.  
 Raw,  161.  
 Sautéd,  164.  
 Scalloped,  163.  
  PALM LEAVES,  398.  
 Parisian Sweets,  445.  
 Parker House Rolls,  61.  
 Parmesan, Consommé au,  117.  
 Pâte au Chou,  132.  
 Parsley, to Chop,  505.  
 Parsnip Fritters,  266.  
 Parsnips,  266.  
 with Drawn Butter Sauce,  266.  
 Partridge,  215.  
 Paste, Plain,  386.  
 Puff,  383.  
 Quick,  386.  
 with Lard,  386.  
 Pastry,  382-387.  
 Bag, to Make,  510.  
 Desserts,  396-401.  
 Pâte au Chou,  132.  
 Pâtes, Consommé aux,  117.  
 Patties,  322.  
 Patty Shells,  385.  
 Peach Canapés,  472.  
 Custard,  346.  
 Pie,  394.  
 Tapioca,  329.  
 Peaches, Baked,  475.  
 
 

 Peaches, Brandied,  485.  
 Canned,  483.  
 Pickled, Sweet,  487.  
 Peanut Cookies,  408.  
 Nougat,  449.  
 Peanuts, Salted,  445.  
 Pears, Baked,  475.  
 Canned,  483.  
 Chips,  485.  
 Sweet Pickled,  486.  
 Peas,  266.  
 and Carrots,  258.  
 Creamed,  267.  
 Soup,  123.  
 Soup, Split,  124.  
 Pecans, Salted,  445.  
 Pectic Acid,  8.  
 Pectin,  8.  
 Pectose,  8.  
 Pectosic Acid,  8.  
 Pepper, Black,  14.  
 Cayenne (Capsicum),  15.  
 Peppercorns,  14.  
 Peppermints,  453.  
 Peppers, Stuffed, I.,  267.  
 Stuffed, II.,  268.  
 Phillips' Cocoa,  497.  
 Piano Keys, to Clean,  510.  
 Pickles, Chopped,  488.  
 Cucumber, Ripe,  487.  
 Cucumber, Unripe,  488.  
 Spanish,  489.  
 Pickling,  486.  
 Pies,  388-395.  
 Apple, I.,  389.  
 Apple, II.,  389.  
 Beefsteak,  188.  
 Blackberry,  390.  
 Blueberry,  390.  
 Chicken,  224.  
 Chocolate,  422.  
 Cocoanut,  421.  
 Cottage,  188.  
 Cranberry,  390.  
 Cream,  391.   Cream, I.,  421.  
 Cream, II.,  421.  
 Currant,  390.  
 Custard,  391.  
 Pies, Date,  391.  
 Lemon, I.,  391.  
 Lemon, II.,  391.  
 Lemon, III.,  392.  
 Lemon, IV.,  392.  
 Mince,  393.  
 Mock Mince,  394.  
 Peach,  394.  
 Prune,  394.  
 Pumpkin,  395.  
 Rhubarb,  395.  
 Squash,  395.  
 Washington,  421.  
 Pigeons,  214.  
 Potted,  230.  
 Stuffing for,  230.  
 Pigs, Little,  208.  
 Pigs' Feet,  208.  
 Feet, Broiled,  211.  
 Feet, Fried,  211.  
 Head,  208.  
 Pilaf, Turkish, I.,  89.  
 Turkish, II.,  90.  
 Pimento (Allspice),  15.  
 Pineapple Bavarian Cream,  363.  
 Cream,  370.  
 Frappé,  369.  
 Ice,  373.  
 Lemonade,  46.  
 Pudding,  345.  
 Pineapples, Canned,  483.  
 Pin Wheel Biscuit,  71.  
 Piquante, Sauce,  240.  
 Pistachio Bisque,  375.  
 Ice Cream,  375.  
 Paste,  435.  
 Planked Shad or Whitefish,  152.  
 Plover,  213,   215.  
 Broiled or Roasted,  230.  
 Polish for Hard Wood Floors,  510.  
 Polish Tartlets,  399.  
 Pomegranate Ice,  368.  
 Poor Man's Pudding,  328.  
 Pop-overs,  76.  
 Graham,  76.  
 Pork,  208.  
 Chine of,  208.  
 Chops,  209.  
 Chops with Fried Apples,  209.  
 Roast,  209.  
 
 

 Pork, Salt, Fried, with Codfish,  210.  
 Spareribs,  208.  
 Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes,  209.  
 Portiére Poles, how to Slip easily,  511.  
 Port Wine Sauce,  248.  
 Potage and Celery Salad,  294.  
 Apples,  283.  
 Balls,  280.  
 Balls, Fried,  281.  
 Balls, Sweet,  284.  
 Border,  231,   278.  
 Cakes,  284.  
 Croquettes, French,  282.  
 Croquettes, Sweet,  284.  
 Curls,  281.  
 Fritters,  281.  
 Marbles,  281.  
 Mayonnaise,  291.  
 Omelet,  278.  
 Salad,  294.  
 Soup,  124.  
 Soup, Swiss,  125.  
 Stuffing,  228.  
 Potatoes,  276.  
 à la Hollandaise,  278.  
 au Gratin,  285.  
 Baked,  277.  
 Baked in Half Shell,  279.  
 Broiled,  277.  
 Brabant,  280.  
 Chartreuse,  285.  
 Composition of,  276.  
 Creamed,  284.  
 Delmonico,  285.  
 Duchess,  279.  
 Escalloped,  278.  
 Franconia,  279.  
 French Fried,  281.  
 Fried,  280.  
 Hashed Brown,  285.  
 Lyonnaise, I.,  285.  
 Lyonnaise, II.,  286.  
 Maîte d' Hôtel,  279.  
 Mashed,  278.  
 Oak Hill,  286.  
 Riced,  278.  
 Sautéd,  285.  
 Potatoes, Shadow (Saratoga Chips),  280.  
 Shredded,  280.  
 en Surprise,  283.  
 Sweet,  277,   283.  
 Baked,  283.  
 Balls,  284.  
 Boiled,  283.  
 Croquettes,  284.  
 Glazed,  284.  
 Mashed,  283.  
 with Pork Tenderloins,  209.  
 Warmed over,  284.  
 White,  276.  
 Poultry and Game,  213-235.  
 to Cut up,  216.  
 to Dress and Clean,  215.  
 to Select,  215.  
 to Stuff,  217.  
 to Truss,  217.  
 Ways of Warming over,  231-235.  
 Pound Cake,  431.  
 Pralines,  452.  
 Preserving Fruits,  473.  
 Preserving, Ways of,  30.  
 by Antiseptics,  31.  
 Canning,  31.  
 Drying,  31.  
 Evaporation,  31.  
 Exclusion of Air,  31.  
 Freezing,  30.  
 Oil,  31.  
 Pickling,  31.  
 Refrigeration,  31.  
 Salting,  31.  
 Smoking,  31.  
 Sugar,  31.  
 Prune Almond Cake,  427.  
 Almond Filling,  427,   436.  
 Norwegian Pudding,  349.  
 Pie,  394.  
 Whip,  347.  
 Prunes, Jellied,  353.  
 Stewed,  476.  
 Pudding à la Macédoine,  354.  
 Amber,  354.  
 Apple, Steamed,  334.  
 Apple Tapioca,  329.  
 Blueberry, Steamed,  334.  
 Bread,  330.  
 
 

 Pudding, Bread and Butter,  331.  
 Cabinet, Cold,  356.  
 Cerealine (Mock Indian),  329.  
 Chestnut Soufflé,  333.  
 Chocolate Bread,  331.  
 Columbian,  356.  
 Cottage,  331.  
 Cracker Custard,  330.  
 Cranberry, Steamed,  334.  
 Custard Soufflé,  332.  
 English Plum,  338.  
 Frozen, I.,  376.  
 Frozen, II.,  376.  
 Fruit Soufflé,  333.  
 Ginger,  335.  
 Glacé,  376.  
 Graham,  336.  
 Harvard,  335.  
 Hunters',  337.  
 Indian,  328.  
 Lemon Soufflé,  333.  
 Moulded Snow,  345.  
 Nesselrode,  379.  
 Norwegian Prune,  349.  
 Orange Puffs,  332.  
 Peach Tapioca,  329.  
 Pineapple,  345.  
 Poor Man's,  328.  
 Rebecca,  344.  
 Rice,  328.  
 Royal Diplomatic,  364.  
 Scalloped Apples,  330.  
 Snow, I.,  354.  
 Snow, II.,  354.  
 Snow Balls,  336.  
 Spanish Soufflé,  333.  
 St. James,  336.  
 Strawberry Cottage,  332.  
 Suet,  337.  
 Swiss,  335.  
 Tapioca Custard,  329.  
 Thanksgiving,  337.  
 Tipsy,  346.  
 Yorkshire,  180.  
 Pudding Sauces,  339-343.  
 Puff Paste,  383.  
 Paste, to Bake,  384.  
 Puffs, Breakfast,  76.  
 Raspberry,  398.  
 Pumpkin Pie,  395.  
 Punch, Cardinal,  371.  
 Claret,  47.  
 Fruit, I.,  47.  
 Fruit, II.,  47.  
 Ginger,  47.  
 Hollandaise,  371.  
 Milk,  497.  
 Roman,  372.  
 Victoria,  371.  
 Purées,  102.  
 Chestnut,  115.  
  QUAHAUGS,  140.  
 Quail,  215,   229.  
 Broiled,  229.  
 Roasted,  229.  
 Quaker Muffins,  73.  
 Oats Bread,  59.  
 Oats Mush,  503.  
 Queen Cake,  431.  
 Fritters,  307.  
 of Muffins,  72.  
 Quenelles,  134.  
 Quick Cake,  422.  
 Quinces, Baked,  476.  
 Quince, Canned,  483.  
 Jelly,  478.  
 Marmalade,  480.  
  RADISHES,  268.  
 Raised Doughnuts,  82.  
 Muffins,  66.  
 Oatmeal Muffins,  67.  
 Waffles,  80.  
 Raisins, to Seed,  414.  
 Ramequins Soufflés,  320.  
 Range, Care of after Frying,  507.  
 Range, Set and Portable,  18, 19.  
 Rarebit, Oyster,  469.  
 Welsh, I.,  468.  
 Welsh, II.,  469.  
 Raspberry and Currant Ice,  368.  
 and Currant Preserve,  485.  
 Ice,  368.  
 Jam,  480.  
 Jelly,  479.  
 Puffs,  398.  
 Whip,  347.  
 Rattan Furniture, to Remove Dust from,  511.  
 
 

 Rebecca Pudding,  344.  
 Recipes especially Prepared for the Sick,  490.  
 Rennet Custard (Junket),  504.  
 Reptiles,  143.  
 Frogs,  143.  
 Terrapin,  143.  
 Rhubarb, Canned,  484.  
 Pie,  395.  
 Sauce,  476.  
 Ribbon Cake,  425.  
 Rice,  85.  
 à la Riston,  89.  
 Boiled,  88.  
 with Cheese,  89.  
 Compote of, with Peaches,  321.  
 Compote of, and Pears,  321.  
 Croquettes with Jelly,  308.  
 Croquettes, Sweet,  309.  
 Croustades,  321.  
 Griddle Cakes, I.,  78.  
 Griddle Cakes, II.,  78.  
 and Meat, Casserole of,  199.  
 Muffins,  73.  
 Pilaf, Turkish, I.,  89.  
 Pilaf, Turkish, II.,  90.  
 Pudding,  328.  
 Sauce,  247.  
 Steamed,  88.  
 Timbales,  315.  
 and Tomato Croquettes,  309.  
 Waffles,  80.  
 to Wash,  89.  
 Water,  493.  
 Riced Potatoes,  278.  
 Rissoles,  323.  
 Filling for,  323.  
 Rolls, Luncheon,  62.  
 Parker House,  61.  
 Salad or Dinner,  62.  
 Swedish,  62.  
 Sweet French,  63.  
 Roman Punch,  372.  
 Royal Diplomatic Pudding,  364.  
 Rules for Testing Fat for Frying,  23.  
 Rum Cakes,  326.  
 Sauce,  326.  
 Rusks, French,  64.  
 (Zwieback),  64.  
 Russian Jelly,  352.  
 Sandwiches,  461.  
 Tea,  38.  
 Rye Bread,  60.  
 Drop Cakes,  81.  
 Meal Mush,  502.  
 Muffins I.,  74.  
 Muffins II.,  74.  
  SABYON SAUCE,  342.  
 Saddle of Mutton,  191,   195.  
 Sage,  6.  
 Soup,  112.  
 Salad or Dinner Rolls,  62.  
 Dressing, Boiled,  289.  
 Dressings,  287-291.  
 Chicken,  289.  
 Cream, I.,  288.  
 Cream, II.,  289.  
 French,  288.  
 German,  289.  
 Mayonnaise, I.,  290.  
 Mayonnaise, II.,  291.  
 Mayonnaise, Colored,  291.  
 Mayonnaise, Cream,  291.  
 Mayonnaise, Green,  291.  
 Mayonnaise, Potato,  291.  
 Mayonnaise, Red,  291.  
 Oil, I.,  290.  
 Oil, II.,  290.  
 Salads,  287,   292-301.  
 à la Russe,  296.  
 Banana,  298.  
 Celery and Cabbage,  293.  
 Celery, Dressed,  293.  
 Cheese,  297.  
 Chicken, I.,  300 .  
 Chicken, II.,  301.  
 Chicken and Oyster,  301.  
 Cucumber and Tomato,  293.  
 Egg, I.,  296.  
 Egg, II.,  297.  
 Fruit, I.,  350.  
 Fruit, with Wine Dressing,  350.  
 Lenten,  297.  
 Lettuce and Cucumber,  292.  
 Lettuce and Radish,  292.  
 Lettuce and Tomato,  292.  
 Lettuce, Dressed,  292.  
 
 

 Salads, Lobster, I.,  298.  
 Lobster, II.,  299.  
 Lobster, III.,  299.  
 Macédoine,  295.  
 Nut,  297.  
 Nut and Celery,  297.  
 Orange,  350.  
 Potato,  294.  
 Potato and Celery,  294.  
 Salmon,  298.  
 Sardine,  298.  
 Shrimp,  298.  
 Spinach,  296.  
 String Bean,  293.  
 Sweetbread and Cucumber,  301.  
 Tomato Jelly,  296.  
 Tomato, Stuffed,  295.  
 Watercress and Cucumber,  292.  
 Watercress, Dressed,  292.  
 Salmon, Boiled,  148.  
 Box,  159.  
 Croquettes,  310.  
 Cutlets,  310.  
 Force-meat,  133.  
 Salad,  298.  
 Soup,  125.  
 Salsify (Oyster Plant),  251,   265.  
 Fritters,  266.  
 Salt, to Prevent Lumping,  506.  
 Sand Tarts,  409.  
 Sandwiches,  458.  
 Anchovy,  459.  
 Beef, Raw,  503.  
 Brown Bread,  460.  
 Cheese Wafers,  461.  
 Chicken,  460.  
 Chicken Halibut,  154.  
 Egg,  459,   503.  
 Fruit,  460.  
 Ginger,  460.  
 Ham, Chopped,  459.  
 Ham, Sliced,  459.  
 Jelly,  461.  
 Lettuce,  459.  
 Lobster,  460.  
 Nut and Cheese,  460.  
 Oyster,  460.  
 Russian,  461.  
 Sardine,  459.  
 Saratoga Chips,  280.  
 Sardine Canapés,  462.  
 Salad,  208.  
 Sandwiches  459.  
 Sardines with Anchovy Sauce,  468.  
 Grilled,  468.  
 Sauces, Fish and Meat,  236-249.  
 Sauce, Allemande,  237.  
 Anchovy,  244.  
 Anchovy Butter,  244.  
 Apple,  335,   474.  
 Béarnaise,  246.  
 Béchamel,  243,   269.  
 Béchamel, Yellow,  243.  
 Bread,  247.  
 Brown, I.,  239.  
 Butter, Drawn,  238,   266.  
 Butter, Maîte d' Hôtel,  244,   279.  
 Caper,  238.  
 Caramel,  348.  
 Cauliflower,  247.  
 Celery,  243.  
 Champagne,  241.  
 Claret,  378.  
 Cream,  237.  
 Cucumber,  243.  
 Egg, I.,  238.  
 Egg, II.,  239.  
 Figaro,  246.  
 Hollandaise, I.,  245.  
 Hollandaise, II.,  245.  
 Horseradish, II.,  247.  
 à l'Italienne,  240.  
 Lemon Butter,  244.  
 Lobster, I.,  245.  
 Lobster, II.,  246.  
 Lobster Butter,  244.  
 Maître d' Hôtel,  244,   279.  
 Maraschino,  306.  
 Mint,  248.  
 Mushroom, Brown, I.,  239.  
 Mushroom, Brown, II.,  239.  
 Olive,  240.  
 Orange,  240.  
 Oyster,  243.  
 Piquante,  240.  
 Port Wine,  248.  
 Rice,  247.  
 Rum,  326.  
 
 

 Sauce, Shrimp,  238.  
 Soubise,  238.  
 Spanish,  235,   242.  
 Suprême,  244.  
 Tartar,  244.  
 Tartare,  248.  
 Tomato, I., (without Stock),  241.  
 Tomato, II.,  241.  
 Tomato, III.,  241.  
 Tomato, with Cecils,  188.  
 Tomato Cream,  242.  
 Tomato and Mushroom,  242.  
 Tongue, for,  184.  
 Trianon,  246.  
 Tyrolienne,  249.  
 Velouté,  238.  
 White, I.,  237.  
 White, II.,  237.   White, Thick (for Cutlets and Croquettes).  237.  
 White, Thin,  237.  
 Sauces, Pudding,  339-343.  
 Brandy,  343.  
 Chocolate,  342.  
 Cream, I.,  340.  
 Cream, II.,  340.  
 Creamy, I.,  341.  
 Creamy, II.,  341.  
 Currant Jelly,  248.  
 Foamy, I.,  341.  
 Foamy, II.,  341.  
 Hard,  342.  
 Lemon, I.,  339.  
 Lemon, II.,  339.  
 Madeira, Iced,  380.  
 Molasses,  339.  
 Orange,  340.  
 Sabyon,  342.  
 Sterling,  342.  
 Strawberry,  341.  
 Vanilla,  339.  
 Wine,  343.  
 Yellow, I.,  340.  
 Yellow, II.,  340.  
 Sausages,  208,   211.  
 Scallop Stew,  118.  
 Scallops,  140.  
 Devilled,  318.  
 Fried,  165.  
 Scotch Broth,  197.  
 Scotch Wafers,  406.  
 Woodcock,  470.  
 Scrod, Broiled,  148.  
 Seed Cakes,  409.  
 Shellfish,  139.  
 Bivalve Mollusks,  139.  
 Clams,  140.  
 Oysters,  139.  
 Scallops,  140.  
 Crustaceans,  141.  
 Crabs,  143.  
 Lobsters,  141.  
 Shrimps,  143.  
 Sherbet, Canton,  369.  
 London,  371.  
 Milk,  369.  
 Shrimps,  143.  
 à la Newburg,  467.  
 Sick, Recipes for the,  490.  
 Sink Drain, Care of,  507, 508.  
 Smelts, Baked Stuffed,  152.  
 Fried,  154.  
 Fried Stuffed,  155.  
 Snow Balls,  336.  
 Cake,  426.  
 Pudding, I.,  354.  
 Pudding, II.,  354.  
 Soda Bicarbonate,  56.  
 Sodium Chloride,  5,   170.  
 Sorbet,  369.  
 Soubise Sauce,  238.  
 Soufflé au Rhum,  322.  
 Cheese,  320.  
 Chestnut,  333.  
 Chicken,  233.  
 Custard,  332.  
 Fruit,  333.  
 Lemon,  333.  
 Omelet,  322.  
 Ramequins,  320.  
 Spanish,  333.  
 Veal,  233.  
 Soups,  101-126.  
 Binding of,  105.  
 Clearing of,  105.  
 Making,  102.  
 with Fish Stock,  117-120.  
 with Meat Stock,  106-117.  
 without Stock,  102,   121-126.  
 Asparagus,  113.  
 
 

 Soups, Bean, Baked,  122.  
 Bean, Black,  121.  
 Bean, String,  115.  
 Bisques,  102.  
 Bouillon,  101.  
 Bouillon, Clam,  117.  
 Cauliflower, Cream of,  114.  
 Celery,  122.  
 Celery, Cream of,  113.  
 Chicken,  110.  
 Clam and Oyster,  119.  
 Clam, Cream of,  120.  
 Clam, with Poached Eggs,  119.  
 Consommé,  101,   116.  
 à la Royal,  117.  
 au Parmesan,  117.  
 aux Pà la Royal,  117.  
 Colbert,  117.  
 Princess,  117.  
 with Vegetables,  117.  
 Corn,  123.  
 Cream,  102.  
 Crécy,  108.  
 Duchess,  111.  
 Farina,  110.  
 Garnishings and Forcemeats,  130.  
 Halibut,  123.  
 Hygienic,  110.  
 Imperial,  112.  
 Julienne,  107.  
 Kornlet,  124.  
 Lettuce, Cream of,  114.  
 Lima Bean, Cream of,  122.  
 Lobster Bisque,  120.  
 Macaroni,  107.  
 Mock Turtle,  116.  
 Mulligatawny,  115.  
 Ox-tail,  108.  
 Oyster,  118.  
 Oyster, French,  118.  
 Oyster, Gumbo,  119.  
 Pea,  123.  
 Pea, Split,  124.  
 Potage à la Reine,  111.  
 Potato,  124.  
 Potato, Swiss,  125.  
 Parées, Chestnut,  115.  
 Salmon,  125.  
 Spinach,  113.  
 Soups, Spring,  111.  
 Squash,  125.  
 St. Germain,  112.  
 Tomato,  125.  
 Tomato, Cream of (Mock Bisque),  126.  
 Tomato, with Stock,  107.  
 Turkey,  110.  
 Turkey,  108.  
 Veal and Sago,  112.  
 Vegetables,  126.  
 Watercress, Cream of,  114.  
 White,  109.  
 Spaghetti,  91.  
 Timbales,  315.  
 Spanish Cake,  424.  
 Cream,  355.  
 Omelet,  100.  
 Sauce,  242.  
 Sauce for Salmi of Duck,  235.  
 Soufflé,  333.  
 Spice Cookies,  406.  
 Spinach,  268.  
 à la Béchamel,  269.  
 Boiled,  268.  
 Salad,  296.  
 Soup,  113.  
 Sponge Cake,  417.  
 Cake, Cheap,  416.  
 Cake, Cream,  417.  
 Cake, Hot Water,  416.  
 Drops,  419.  
 Fritters,  307.  
 Spring Soup,  111.  
 Spun Sugar,  457.  
 Squash,  269.  
 Biscuits,  67.  
 Hubbard,  269.  
 Marrow,  269.  
 Pie,  395.  
 Soup,  395.  
 Summer, Boiled,  269.  
 Summer, Fried, I.,  270.  
 Summer, Fried, II.,  270.  
 Turban,  269.  
 Winter, Baked, I.,  270.  
 Winter, Baked, II.,  270.  
 Winter, Boiled,  270.  
 Winter, Steamed,  270.  
 Starch,  5.  
 
 

 Starch, Corn,  6.  
 Dextrine,  6.  
 Dextrose,  6.  
 Glycogen,  6.  
 Test for,  6.  
 Sterilized Milk,  495.  
 Sterling Sauce,  342.  
 Stew, Beef, with Dumplings,  182.  
 Irish, with Dumplings,  197.  
 Oyster,  118.  
 Scallop,  118.  
 St. Germain Soup,  112.  
 St. James Pudding,  336.  
 Strawberry Baskets,  315.  
 Bavarian Cream,  363.  
 Cottage Pudding,  332.  
 Filling,  434.  
 Ice,  368.  
 Ice Cream,  373.  
 Mousse,  379.  
 Preserve,  484.  
 Sauce,  484.  
 Short Cake I.,  83.  
 Short Cake II.,  83.  
 Short Cake, Rich,  84.  
 Sponge,  362.  
 Whip,  347.  
 String Bean Salad,  293.  
 Bean Soup,  115.  
 Stuffing I.,  220.  
 II.,  221.  
 Chestnut,  227.  
 for Chicken in Aspic,  325.  
 Fish, I.,  149.  
 Fish, II.,  149.  
 for Mutton,  195.  
 Oyster,  150.  
 Potato,  228.  
 for Potted Pigeons,  230.  
 Poultry,  217.  
 for Smelts,  152.  
 Succotash,  260.  
 Sucrose,  7.  
 Sugar,  6.  
 Barley,  7.  
 Boiled for Confections,  453.  
 Cane (Sucrose),  7.  
 to Caramelize,  505.  
 Changes in Cooking of,  7.  
 Composition of,  6.  
 Sugar, Fruit (Diabetin),  7.  
 Fruit (Levulose),  7.  
 Grape (Glucose),  7.  
 to Heat,  478.  
 Milk, (Lactose),  7.  
 Spun,  457.  
 Suet,  8,   170.  
 Pudding,  337.  
 Sultana Caramels,  452.  
 Roll with Claret Sauce,  377.  
 Sunshine Cake,  418.  
 Supréme of Chicken,  317.  
 Sauce,  244.  
 Swedish Rolls,  62.  
 Timbales,  313.  
 Sweetbreads,  206.  
 à la Poulette,  207.  
 and Bacon,  207.  
 Broiled,  206.  
 Creamed,  207.  
 Creamed, and Chicken,  207.  
 and Cucumber Salad,  301.  
 Cutlets with Asparagus Tips,  207.  
 Cutlets of à la Victoria,  313.  
 Larded,  207.  
 with Tomato Sauce,  207.  
 Swiss Pudding,  335.  
 Swordfish, Broiled,  148.  
  TABLES, Time, for Cooking,  32-35.  
 for Boiling Sugar for Confections,  453.  
 for Cooking Cereals,  85.  
 of Measures and Weights,  32.  
 Composition of Cereals,  85.  
 Composition of Fish,  147.  
 Composition of Meats,  175.  
 Composition of Vegetables,  250.  
 Tamarind Water,  494.  
 Tapioca ,  6.  
 Cream,  348.  
 Custard Pudding,  329.  
 Peach Pudding,  329.  
 Tartar Sauce,  244.  
 Tartare Sauce,  248.  
 Tartlets, Polish,  399.  
 Tarts,  399.  
 Tea,  36.  
 Black,  36.  
 Five o'clock,  38.  
 
 

 Tea, Green,  36.  
 Iced,  38.  
 Making of,  38.  
 Russian,  38.  
 and Coffee-pots, Care of,  509.  
 and Coffee Stains, to Remove,  510.  
 Terrapin,  143,   156.  
 à la Baltimore,  157.  
 à la Maryland,  157.  
 Calf's Head, à la,  187.  
 to Cook,  156.  
 Mock,  233.  
 to Prepare,  156.  
 Washington,  157.  
 Thanksgiving Dinner, Menu for,  520.  
 Pudding,  337.  
 Third Bread,  59.  
 Timbale Iron, to Heat,  314.  
 Timbales, Chicken,  317.  
 Forming of,  314.  
 Halibut,  315.  
 Lobster,  316.  
 Macaroni,  315.  
 Rice,  315.  
 Spaghetti,  315.  
 Swedish,  313.  
 Tipsy Pudding,  346.  
 Toast, Brown Bread Milk,  68.  
 Cream,  68.  
 Cream Tomato,  68.  
 Dry,  67.  
 German,  69.  
 Milk, I.,  68.  
 Milk, II.,  68.  
 Water,  67,   494.  
 Toasted Salt Fish,  160.  
 Tomato Fritters,  305.  
 Cream Sauce,  242.  
 Cream Toast,  68.  
 Jelly Salad,  296.  
 and Mushroom Sauce,  242.  
 Pickle,  487.  
 Preserve,  486.  
 Sauce I. (without Stock),  241.  
 Sauce II.,  241.  
 Sauce III.,  241.  
 Soup, Cream of,  126.  
 Soup, with Stock,  107.  
 Tomatoes,  271.  
 à la Crême,  272.  
 in Aspic,  324.  
 Baked,  272.  
 Broiled,  271.  
 Canned,  484.  
 Devilled,  272.  
 Scalloped,  271.  
 Sliced,  271.  
 Stewed,  271.  
 Stuffed,  272.  
 Tongue in Aspic,  324.  
 Boiled,  184.  
 Braised,  184.  
 Breaded, with Tomato Sauce,  469.  
 Trianon Sauce,  246.  
 Tripe, à la Creole,  186.  
 à la Provençale,  187.  
 Batter for,  186.  
 Batter, in,  186.  
 Broiled,  186.  
 where Found,  171.  
 Lyonnaise,  186.  
 Truffles,  253.  
 Tubers,  251.  
 Tumblers, Care of,  507.  
 Turbot, Little (see Halibut),  137.  
 Turnips,  273.  
 Creamed,  273.  
 Croquettes,  273.  
 Mashed,  273.  
 Turkey,  214.  
 Boiled,  226.  
 to Carve,  227.  
 Gravy,  227.  
 with Chestnut Gravy,  227.  
 Minced,  234.  
 Roast,  226.  
 Roast, with Chestnut Stuffing,  227.  
 Scalloped,  234.  
 Soup,  110.  
 Turkish Pilaf I.,  89.  
 Pilaf II.,  90.  
 Soup,  108.  
 Tutti Frutti,  485.  
 Candy,  456.  
 Twin Mountain Muffins,  72.  
 Tyrolienne Sauce,  249.  
 
 

 UNFERMENTED BREAD,  56.  
 Grape Juice,  48.  
 Union Grill,  466.  
 Uses for Stale Bread,  69.  
 Utensils and Stores for Furnishing a School Kitchen,  525.  
  VANILLA ICE CREAM I. (Philadelphia),  372.  
 Ice Cream II.,  372.  
 Croquettes,  372.  
 Sauce,  339.  
 Wafers,  407.  
 Veal,  201.  
 and Sago Soup,  112.  
 Birds,  204.  
 Blanquette of,  205.  
 Braised Shoulder of,  203.  
 Brown Sauce, with,  202.  
 Croquettes,  311.  
 Cutlets,  202.  
 Fricandeau,  203.  
 Fricassee of,  202.  
 Loaf I.,  204.  
 Loaf II.,  205.  
 Loin of, à la Jardinière,  203.  
 Minced, on Toast,  205.  
 Roast,  203.  
 Vegetable Acids and where Found,  14.  
 Soup,  126.  
 Vegetables,  250-275.  
 Care of,  251.  
 Composition of,  250.  
 Cooking of,  252.  
 Velouté Sauce,  238.  
 Velvet Cake,  423.  
 Candy, Molasses,  446.  
 Venison,  214.  
 Cutlets,  231.  
 Cutlets with Apples,  470.  
 Jelly,  479.  
 Roast Leg of,  231.  
 Saddle of,  231.  
 Steak, Broiled,  230.  
 Victoria Punch,  371.  
 Vinegar,  15.  
 Candy,  447.  
 Virginia Waffles,  80.  
 Vol-au-vents,  322,   385.  
  WAFERS, ALMOND,  411.  
 Rolled,  410.  
 Scotch,  406.  
 Vanilla,  407.  
 Waffles,  79.  
 Raised,  80.  
 Rice,  80.  
 Virginia,  80.  
 Walnut Cake,  424.  
 Walnuts, Creamed,  452.  
 Dipped,  455.  
 Jellied,  353.  
 Warming over Beef,  187.  
 Fish,  158.  
 Mutton and Lamb,  198.  
 Potatoes,  284.  
 Poultry and Game,  231.  
 Veal,  205.  
 Washington Pie,  421.  
 Water,  4,   170.  
 Acidulated,  506.  
 Alkaline and Mineral,  5.  
 Apollinaris,  5.  
 Apple,  494.  
 Barley,  493.  
 Boiled,  4.  
 Clam,  501.  
 Currant,  494.  
 Distilled,  5.  
 Hard,  4.  
 Lime,  10,   18.  
 Lithia,  5.  
 Oatmeal,  493.  
 Poland,  5.  
 Rice,  493.  
 Saline,  5.  
 Seltzer,  5.  
 Soda,  5.  
 Soft,  4.  
 Sulphur,  5.  
 Tamarind,  494.  
 Temperature of,  4.  
 Toast,  67,   494.  
 Vichy,  5.  
 Watercress,  251.  
 and Cucumber Salad,  292.  
 Dressed,  292.  
 Soup, Cream of,  114.  
 Watrouskis,  320.  
 Ways of Baking,  22.  
 
 

 Ways of Boiling,  21.  
 Boning,  26.  
 Braising,  24.  
 Broiling,  22.  
 Cooking,  21.  
 Cooking Fish,  145.  
 Egging and Crumbing,  25.  
 Fricasseing,  25.  
 Frying,  22.  
 Larding,  26.  
 Preparing Food for Cooking,  25.  
 Roasting,  22.  
 Sautéing,  24.  
 Stewing,  22.  
 Wedding Cake,  432.  
 Welsh Rarebit I.,  468.  
 Welsh Rarebit II.,  469.  
 Wheat,  50.  
 Processes of Milling,  5 0, 51.  
 White Bait Garnish,  132.  
 Corn Cake,  75.  
 Fish,  137.  
 Fish, Planked,  152.  
 Mountain Cream,  437.  
 Nut Cake,  428.  
 White Sauce I.,  237.  
 Sauce II.,  237.  
 Sauce, Thin,  237.  
 Sauce, Thick, for Cutlets and Croquettes,  237.  
 Soup,  109.  
 Soup Stock,  101.  
 Soup Stock I.,  109.  
 Soup Stock II.,  109.  
 Soup Stock III.,  109.  
 Wine Cream,  349.  
 Dressing,  350.  
 Jelly I.,  352.  
 Jelly II.,  352.  
 Sauce,  343.  
 Whey,  497.  
 Wintergreen Wafers,  450.  
  YEAST,  52.  
 Fermentation,  52.  
 Plant,  53.  
 Yellow Sauce, I.,  340.  
 Sauce II.,  340.  
 Sauce, Béchamel,  243.  
 Yorkshire Pudding,  180.  



 
 
  
 
 

 
  
 
 

 Cleveland's Baking Powder, 
 Manufactured originally by Cleveland Brothers, Albany, N.Y., now by the Cleveland Baking Powder, New York,  has been used by American housewives for twenty-five years, and those who have used it longest praise it most. 
  It is perfectly pure and wholesome. 
 Its composition is stated on every can. 
 It is always uniform and reliable. 
 It does the most work and the best work. 
 It is the strongest of all pure cream of tarter powders, as shown by the United States and Canadian Government Reports. 
 
 All the leading teachers of cookery and writers on domestic science use and recommend it, as:-- 
 
 
 Miss Fannie M. Farmer, 
 Mrs. Emma P. Ewing, 
 
 
 Principal Boston Cooking School. 
 Principal Chautauqua School of Cookery. 
 
 
 Mrs. Carrie M. Dearborn, 
 Mrs. D. A. Lincoln, 
 
 
 Late Prin. Boston Cooking School. 
 Author of "Boston Cook Book." 
 
 
 Mrs. Sarah T. Rorer, 
 Miss C. C. Bedford, 
 
 
 Prin. Philadelphia Cooking School. 
 Superintendent New York Cooking School. 
 
 
 Marion Harland, 
 Mrs. Eliza R. Parker, 
 
 
 Author of "Common Sense in the Household." 
 Author of "Economical Housekeeping." 
 
 
 Miss Kate E. Whitaker, 
 
 
 Superintendent of Cookery in Public Schools, San Francisco, Cal. 
  
 Our book of 400 choice receipts mailed free. Send stamp and address. Cleveland Baking Powder Company, 81 & 81 Fulton Street. New York.  
  
 
 

 HIGHEST AWARDS WHEREVER EXHIBITED IMPERIAL GRANUM PURE NUTRITIOUS WELL-PREPARED • EASILY DIGESTED • THE STANDARD  AND BEST-PREPARED FOOD • FOR • INVALIDS AND CONVALESCENTS FOR DYSPEPTIC • DELICATE • INFIRM AND AGED PERSONS • UNRIVALLED • FOR NURSING MOTHERS INFANTS AND CHILDREN  SOLD BY DRUGGISTS  SHIPPING DEPOT JOHN CARLE & SONS • NEW YORK  IMPERIAL GRANUM  Has acquired the reputation of being a standard dietetic preparation, and this reputation is deserved. While particularly excellent as a FOOD for infants, children, invalids, and the aged, it is also capable of being served in most delicious and appetizing forms for the healthy as well as the sick. Write to  THE IMPERIAL GRANUM COMPANY, New Haven, Conn.,  for thier new  Receipts for Preparing Dainty Dishes  FOR INVALIDS AND CONVALESCENTS, and also for delicious, easily digested forms of dessert for those in health.  
  
 
 

 FOSS' 
  A flying bird carring a banner in its beak, which reads "PURE" on one side and "FLAVORING" on the other.  
 EXTRACTS 
 IN ANY OF THE VALUABLE RECEIPTS IN THIS BOOK WHERE FRUIT FLAVORING IS CALLED FOR, THE VERY BEST RESULTS WILL BE OBTAINED BY USING  Foss' Pure Flavoring Extracts 
  A decorative line of leaves.  
 Why? 
   Because  OF THEIR ABSOLUTE PURITY 
  Because  OF THEIR UNUSUAL STRENGTH 
  Because  OF THEIR DELICATE FLAVOR 
 
  A decorative line of leaves.  
 THEY ARE USED BY MANY OF THE LEADING TEACHERS OF COOKERY, AND ARE ALSO USED AT THE  BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL,  WHERE THE AIM IS ALWAYS TO SECURE THE  PUREST  AND  BEST  ARTICLES OF FOOD  These Extracts are preferred and used by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln  Awarded the Gold Medal (Highest Award) by the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, 1892, for Purity and Superiority  
  
 
 

 KINGSFORD'S OSWEGO STARCH 
 THE STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE  Kingsford's Corn Starch 
  The Original For Over 50 Years SOLD ALL AROUND THE WORLD  A large bald eagle flies over a scene containing a Native American woman and a pilgrim standing on either side of a decorative sign which reads: "CORN STARCH MANUFACTURED BY T. KINGSFORD & SON TRADE MARK." Large ears of corn and corn stalks decorate the area around the two figures and the sign.  
 For the Laundry  Silver Gloss Starch  A GIANT IN STRENGTH MATCHLESS IN PURITY  Kingsford's "Pure" Starch   FOR ECONOMY AND GOOD QUALITY  
  
 
 

  An illustration of a Knox's Sparkling Calves Foot Gelatine box.  
 Knox's Sparkling Calves=Foot Gelatine   The Purest Made   PUT UP IN GRANULATED FORM FOR QUICK HANDLING   Knox's Acidulated Gelatine  Requires no Lemons or other Acid Fruits in making Jellies.  
  A small decorative illustration of a flower.  
 THE GELATINE USED AND INDORSED BY MISS FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 
  A small decorative illustration of a flower.  
 Send stamp for my little cook-book "Dainty Desserts for Dainty People" CHAS. B. KNOX, JOHNSTOWN, N.Y.  
  
 
 

  Health Springs from the Cocoanut COPYRIGHTED 1896-  An illustration of a baby stepping out of a coconut which has cracked open. The caption is embedded in the illustration.  
 Pure and Wholesome  describes the new article of food just being introduced and for your health's sake you should investigate our  Cocoanut Butter  it is a superior article of guaranteed purity to be used in place of butter, lard or compounds in cooking. Requires only one-half to two-thirds the quantity used of other shortening. Endorsed by physicians for purity and by bakers and chefs for its economic value. Sold by all the grocers. Write for free book about it.  THE PURE FOOD PRODUCT CO.  SOLE NEW ENGLAND AGENTS   McLellan & Brigham Company   Importers and Dealers in   Confectioners' and Bakers' Supplies   Office and Salesroom   50, 51, & 52 Chatham St., Boston, Mass.   
  
 
 

 Old Grist Mill Entire Wheat Coffee 
  An illustration of the Old Grist Mill Engire Wheat Coffee box.  
 A PERFECT HYGIENIC SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE, CONTAINING THE ENTIRE WHEAT KERNEL ROASTED AND GROUND  It has all the delicate flavor of Moca and Java, but unlike these Coffees it does not produce billousness or irritate the nerves.  It aids digestion, is easily assimilated by the weakest stomach, and assists nature in preserving the complexion clear and fresh.  BEWARE OF IMITATIONS OF OTHER COFFEE SUBSTITUTES SAID TO BE AS GOOD.  Sold only in 1-lb. Cartons, 20 cents. Never in Bulk.  
 
 SOMETHING NEW FOR BREAKFAST. 
  A decorative line of leaves.  
 Old Grist Mill Toasted Wheat. 
  An illustration of the Old Grist Mill Toasted Wheat box.  
 THE TOASTED WHEAT IS A PERFECT HYGIENIC FOOD.  As fresh bread becomes more easily digested by toasting, so in our process of preparing and toasting the Wheat the same chemical change takes place, which renders it easier of assimilation, at the same time giving it that delightful flavor which is so palatable, making the  TOASTED WHEAT  a delight to the robust and healthy, and a boon to the invalids and convalescents.   Give it freely to the children;  they thrive on it, as it is not heating like Oat Meals and other Cereals.  It contains all the health-giving qualities of the wheat; the phosphates, nitrates, and fat-producing qualitites are fully retained, which are the necessary qualities for strengthening the bones, muscles, and nerves.  An introduction of this remarkable Health Food to your family will demonstrate its wholesome and nutritious qualities, and render it an indispensable necessity of the breakfast table.   Ask your grocer for a sample.  If he does not carry it in stock, insist on his obtaining it for you. We will furnish the samples free. 
  A decorative line of leaves.  
  POTTER & WRIGHTINGTON,  Manufacturers of OLD GRIST MILL HEALTH FOODS,  60 COMMERCE STREET, BOSTON, MASS., U.S.A.   
  
 
 

  A decorative line of leaves.  
 Good Housewives prefer  Squire's Hams Bacon Leaf Lard and "Arlington" Sausage  They are Superior to all other brands  THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL uses and recommends  Squire's Pure Leaf Lard     John P. Squire & Co. Boston 
  A decorative line of leaves.  
 
  
 
 

  The page is surrounded by a border consisting of illustrations of various kitchen implements. There are 20 illustrations altogether.  
 Choice House Furnishings 
 FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC. 
 No other house in this country can show such a variety.  French Fry Pans;   Jelly Sieves;  Enamelled, Tin, and Copper Moulds--more than 1200 patterns and different sizes;  Soufflé Dishes;   Coffee Mills;   Pepper Mills;   Table Coffee Roasters;   Coffee Pots  and Machines;  Pot au feu;   Shirred Egg Dishes;  Casseroles;  Marmites;  Salad Forks and Spoons;  Salad Washers;  Cook's Knives;  Hateletts;   Vegetable Cutters;   Paste Cutters;   Ramikins;   Parisien Potato Cutters;  Wood Cooking-School Spoons; also, a large variety of English and German Culinary Goods.  We call special attention to our  Plate Warmers,  to use with charcoal and for register.   English Knife Machines  clean from two to eight knives at a time. Also  Knife Boards.   Fireplace Fittings, Andirons,  Fenders,  FireSets, Brushes, and  Bellows.   We have imported a line of latest  COOK BOOKS,  elegantly illistrated in colors, with all information as to purchasing market supplies; cultery and carving; setting the most elaborate tables, from the simplest to the most elegant entertainments. These are at the disposal of customers.   FREE FOR ONE WEEK; after that, 2 cents a day, till returned.   F.A. WALKER & CO.  House Furnishers Importers ∴ Wholesalers ∴ Retailers  Established, 1839.  Catalouges with 3,000 illistrations at Store, or mailed on receipt of so cents for mailing.  
  
 
 

 The HUB Line of RANGES 
  An illustration of an old-fashioned range.  
  A decorative line of leaves.  
 The World's Best  Made in a variety of Sizes, suiting them to the varying demands of the smallest or the largest families   The Hub Ranges  Are everything that a Range should be,  Large, Handsome,  and   Perfect Bakers!   The Hub Ranges  are used exclusively by the Boston, New York, Worcester, New Haven, and other Cooking Schools for the exemplification of the most delicate cooking process. A Range that will suit the exacting demands of the cooking schools must be the best for family use   The Hub Ranges  are sold by leading dealers throughout the country. In places where we have no agent we offer special inducements to purchasers to buy of us direct  Our Double Stores, the largest of the kind in New England, are located at 48, 50, 52, and 54 Union St., Boston  LADIES INTERESTED IN THE COOKING ART ARE REQUESTED TO CALL AND SEE THESE LATEST AND FINEST SPECIMENS OF STOVE CONSTRUCTION. CIRCULARS AND OTHER INFORMATION WILL BE GLADLY MAILED ON APPLICATION  Smith & Anthony Company  48 to 54 Union Street, Boston, Mass.  
  
 
 

 Read's "Odorless" Refrigerator 
  In Which You Can Put  Onions, Bananas, and all kinds of Vegetables, Fruits, Berries, Meats, Fish, Cheese, or  Anything That Has An Odor,  together with Milk and Butter, leaving the two latter in open vessels,  Without Contamination.  It consumes less ice than other refrigerators, and it needs no washing out. You assume no risk, as  Your Money Will Be Refunded  if any of the above named articles will contaminate your butter or milk.   The Keyser Manufacturing Co. Sole Manufacturers. Chattanooga, Tenn., U.S.A.   Represented by E.H. SHORTISS, 90 Canal St. Boston, Mass. 
 
 
 RECOMMENDED 
  by Miss F.M. FARMER, Principal Boston Cooking School. READ'S "ODORLESS"  used at the school. 
 
 
 RECOMMENDED 
  by Mrs. SARAH TYSON RORER, Principal Philadelphia Cooking School. READ'S "ODORLESS"  used at the school. 
 
 
 RECOMMENDED 
 by Mrs. GESINE LEMCKE, Principal Brookline Cooking School, N.Y. 
 
 
 RECOMMENDED 
 by Mrs. EMMA P. EWING, Superintendent Chatauqua Cooking School, Chatauqua, N.Y. 
 
 
 RECOMMENDED 
 by ELLA LURIA HOYLE, Principal N.O. Cooking School. 
  
 Read's "Odorless" Refrigerator  Ice being placed in the upper chamber, the cold air passes down the cold air flues and goes into the provision chamber near the bottom,  getting under all warm air and odors and forcing them up to the roof of provision chamber,  to each end of which pipes are attached, and the  warm air and odors pass up through those pipes  (and went back over the ice as in all others) to an opening in the lid, where they pass through an air chamber between the outside and the inside cases of the lid, and then pass out into the open air, thus avoiding all collision of cold and warm air currents so hurtful to the preservation of food.  The roof of the provision chamber is  absolutely air tight from the ice chamber,  so that in opening the door of the provision chamber  no warm air can come in contact with the ice.  Such warm air as is admitted when door is opened, goes up warm air pipes and out.  THE READ'S "ODORLESS" REFRIGERATORS ARE PERFECTLY DRY AND WILL NOT SWEAT.   E. H. SHORTISS  represents the KEYSER MANUFACTURING CO. in the New England States.  Office and Warerooms:  90 Canal St., Boston, Mass.    Write for Catalogue.             Telephone: Haymarket 85, Boston.  
  
 
 

 Crimped Crust Quaker Bread 
  Is the sweetest and best that can be turned out--dainty of the crust, rich and moist inside. 
 It is common-sense bread; it is scientific bread. 
 Every virtue of the flour, every aroma of the bread, is held as you never saw it before.  
 It is more nutritious, and will keep longer than any other bread without becoming stale. 
  The great secret is in the pan.  Simple as a clothespin. It steams as well as bakes the bread, and never burns it. 
 Quaker Crimped Crust Bread 
 is especially recommended by Miss Fannie Merritt Farmer. 
 
 
 
 Witchkloth The Magic Polisher 
 SAVES Work and Worry. SAVES Wear and Tear. SAVES Time and Trouble.   And it Saves Money.  The simplest and best of all the polishers. The cleanest and quickest. Try it on the silverware, the bicycle, the piano, the harness, the glassware--on any polished thing that has lost its shine, and you'll be astounded and delighted with the result. Like a piece of cotton cloth to look at. Used as you'd use a wiping rag.  It hurts nothing. It costs next to nothing.  All dealers, or send 15 cents for sample piece to  Asbury=Paine Mfg. Co., Wayne Junction, Phila., Pa.   
  
 
 

 ESTABLISHED 1780. 
 WALTER BAKER & CO. Ltd. 
 Dorchester, Mass., U.S.A. 
  An illustration of a maid carrying two mugs on a tray.  
 The Oldest and Largest Manufacturers of  PURE, HIGH GRADE Cocoas and Chocolates  ON THIS CONTINENT. 
   No Chemicals  are used in their manufactures. 
 Their  Breakfast Cocoa  is absolutely pure, delicious, nutritious, and costs less than one cent a cup. 
 Their  Premium No. 1 Chocolate   is the best plain chocolate in the market for family use. 
 Their  German Sweet Chocolate  is good to eat and good to drink. It is palatable, nutritious, and healthful; a great favorite with children. 
 
 Baron von Liebig, one of the best known writers on dietetics, says:--  "It [Cocoa] is a perfect food, as wholesome as delicious, a beneficent restorer of exhausted power; but its quality must be good, and it must be carefully prepared. It is highly nourishing and easily digested, and is fitted to repair wasted strength, preserve health, and prolong life. It agrees with dry temperaments and convalescents; with mothers who nurse their children; with those whose occupations oblige them to undergo severe mental strains; with public speakers and with all those who give to work a portion of the time needed for sleep. It soothes both stomach and brain, and for this reason, as well as for others, it is the best friend of those engaged in literary pursuits."  CONSUMERS SHOULD ASK FOR AND BE SURE THAT THEY GET THE GENUINE  WALTER BAKER & CO.'S  Goods, made at DORCHESTER, MASS., U.S.A.  
  
 
 

 82 Years' Success 
 STICKNEY & POOR SPICE CO. 
 Founded 1815 
  A round award seal which reads: "THE MASS. CHARITABLE MECHANIC ASSOCIATION, AWARD TO Stickney & Poor for Purity of their Manufactures 1890."  
  Pure Mustards 
 Spices 
 Cream Tarter 
 Herbs 
 Etc., Etc. 
 
  A young boy lays his hand on the shoulder of a reclining woman. A number of tools lay in the background and on the ground near the two figures.  
 The Largest Grinders of Pure Spices in the World Highest Award Gold Medals, 1890-1892  Purity and Quality Unexcelled   Ask your Grocer for the above brand of Spices  Packed in one-fourth lb. foil packages or in one-fourth lb. full weight cans  
  
 
 

  A woman in a maid's dress presents a canister of Cottolene.  
 Perfection.  If you are interested in having a varied, a dainty and a wholesome home bill of fare, use the perfect shortening--  COTTOLENE   Makes every dish it enters wholesome and delicious.  Genuine Cottolene is sold everywhere with trade-marks-- "Cottolene" and  steer's head in cotton-plant wreath --on every tin.  MADE ONLY BY   THE N.K. FAIRBANK COMPANY,  Chicago,    St. Louis,    New York,    Boston,    Philadelphia, San Francisco,      New Orleans,      Montreal.  
  
 
 

 GRANITE IRONWARE. 
  An illustration of 22 different cooking utensils scattered across the page. A diamond-shaped seal in the center reads "PATENT GRANITE IRON WARE".  
 OVER ONE THOUSAND SHAPES AND SIZES HAVE BEEN THE STANDARD 20 YEARS.   Manufactured only by ST. LOUIS STAMPING CO.  ST. LOUIS, and For Sale Everywhere.   BRANCHES: 96 Beekman Street, NEW YORK.              143 & 145 Lake St., CHICAGO. BOSTON: Nos. 93, 95, 97, 99, and 101 NORTH STREET.  
  
 
 

 With the use of  King Arthur Flour  comes a better understanding concerning quality bread.  Absolute Purity ∴ Delicate Flavor Amount of Nutrition  possessed by the  King Arthur Brand,  together with the good qualities usually found in first-class flour makes  King Arthur  perfection. 
  A round seal that reads: "KING ARTHUR MINNESOTA TRADE MARK REGISTERED" and features a picture of a knight mounted on a black horse, waving a flag.  
  Sands, Taylor & Wood,  Wholesale Distributors, 172 State Street, Boston.  
  
 
 

   TRADE-MARK, REGISTERED.   An illustration of a man in fisherman's garb cupping one hand over his eyes as though peering over a far distance appears on the right side of the page. A coil of rope is slung over one of the man's shoulders.  
 An Old Salt  WOULD TELL YOU THAT Georges Codfish IS THE VERY BEST CODFISH CAUGHT IN THE SEA   Lord's  "Hatcheled"  Trade Mark Registered  or "Without Bones"  Trade Mark Registered   Brands are made from Genuine Georges Codfish-- that's why they are superior to other brands  Warrented Without Bones A Trial Will Prove It  Your Dealer will supply you  W.H. Lord, Dedham, Mass.  
  
 
 

 A Luncheon Delicacy, and a Pure Food Product 
 Kennedy's Philadelphia Water Thin 
  An illustration of a box of Philadelphia Water Thin biscuits.  
 Crisp ∴ and ∴ Dainty ∴  Delicious flavor  In Handsome and Appropriate One Pound Packages 
  A small decorative illustration of a flower.  
 Manufactured by..... The New York Biscuit Company Cambridgeport, Mass.  
  
 
 

  Copyright 1895, by The Proctor & Gamble Co., Cin'ti.  A woman stands in a kitchen looking critically at a plate she is holding in one hand; the other hand is holding a dishcloth. A bar of soap inscribed with the word "IVORY" and a stack of plates are sitting on the table next to her, and the sink behind her is full of dishes.  
 No housekeeper need have to apologize for her kitchen. A well enforced rule of order and Ivory Soap will make it an attractive and appetizing spot.