THE BULLETIN of the UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION GREEN SECTION Vol. 9 Washington, D. C., June, 1929 No. 6 Contents Page Green Section Summer Meetings......................................................................... 102 Government Laboratory Saves a Man $4,300.................................................... 103 Books for the Greenkeeper’s Library................................................................... 104 Research Work Planned In Great Britain........................................................... 106 Nobody Can Make It Rain.................................................................................... 108 Questions and Answers.......................................................................................... 100 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE Wynant D. Vanderpool, Chairman, P. O. Box 77, Newark, N. J. Russell A. Oakley, Washington, D. C. Harvey L. Westover, Washington, D. C. H. Kendall Read, Philadelphia, Pa. Walter S. Harban, Washington, D. C. H. Y. Barrow, New York, N. Y. John Monteith, Jr., Washington, D. C. Cornelius S. Lee, New York, N. Y. Robert M. Cutting, Chicago, Ill. RESEARCH COMMITTEE United States Department of Agriculture United States Golf Association Russell A. Oakley, Chairman. Harvey L. Westover. John Monteith, Jr. Kenneth Welton. The Bulletin is published monthly by the United States Golf Association Green Section, Washington, D. C., at Room 7207, Building F., 7th and B Streets, N. W. Address all MAIL to P. O. Box 313, Pennsylvania Avenue Station, Washington, D. C. Send TELEGRAMS to Room 7207, Building F, 7th and B Streets, N. W., Washington, D. C. Subscription Price: In United States of America, Mexico, and West Indies, $4.00 per year; in all other countries, $5.00 per year. Entered as second-class matter, April 21, 1926, at the post office at Washington, D. C., under th« Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted, 1929, by the United States Golf Association Green Section. 102 Vol. 9, No. 6 ADVISORY COMMITTEE W. A. Alexander, Chicago, Ill. Eberhard Anheuser, St. Louis, Mo. A. C. U. Berry, Portland, Oreg. N. S. Campbell, Providence, R. I. Wm. C. Fownes, Jr., Pittsburgh, Pa. F. H. Hillman, Washington, D. C. Thos. P. Hinman, Atlanta, Ga. Frederic C. Hood, Watertown, Mass. K. F. Kellerman, Washington, D. C. Norman Macbeth, Los Angeles, Calif. E. J. Marshall, Toledo, Ohio. W. L. Pfeffer, St. Louis, Mo. George V. Rotan, Houston, Tex. Sherrill Sherman, Utica, N. Y. Frederick Snare, Havana, Cuba. James D. Standish, Jr., Detroit, Mich. Charles E. Van Nest, Minneapolis, Minn. W. R. Walton, Washington, D. C. Alan D. Wilson, Philadelphia, Pa. M. H. Wilson, Jr., Cleveland, Ohio. Frank L. Woodward, Denver, Colo. Green Section Summer Meetings The United States Golf Association Green Section is planning two summer meetings for green committee members and greenkeepers. The first of these meetings will be held at the Arlington turf garden, near Washington, D. C., on August 19 and 20, and the other will be held on August 26 and 27, at the new Green Section experimental turf garden, located on Mr. A. D. Lasker’s private course, the Mill Road Farm Golf Course, Everett, Ill. The meeting at Arlington will be of chief interest to those who are connected with courses in the eastern section of the country whereas the meeting in Chicago is pri­ marily for those in the Mid West. All who are interested in fine turf problems are invited to attend these meetings, whether affiliated with clubs belonging to the United States Golf Association or not. In order that provision may be made for transportation, meals, and any other accommodations, it is earnestly requested that the Green Section be notified concerning all who plan to attend either of these meetings. Washington Meeting The program for the meeting at Washington is tentatively ar­ ranged as follows: In the morning visitors will assemble on the turf garden at the Arlington Experimental Farm, which is located between the Arling­ ton National Cemetery and the Potomac River. Those who come un­ provided with transportation will be requested to meet at the Green Section Office in Washington, Room 7-207; Building F, Seventh and B Streets Northwest. Members of the Gbeen Section staff will be at the Arlington turf garden at 9 o’clock, Monday, August 19, and will be on hand throughout the rest of the day to thoroughly explain the work at the garden. This plan will enable visitors who are unable to arrive in the morning to have ample opportunity to go over the experimental work at any time after they arrive. Arrangements to play in the afternoon on one of the local courses will be made for those who choose to go over the turf garden work in the morning and play golf in the afternoon. In the evening the Mid Atlantic Association of Greenkeepers will hold their regular monthly meet­ ing, to which all visitors are invited. Preceding this meeting a dinner will be served at a nominal charge. The program for the second day will be entirely in the hands of the Mid Atlantic Association of Greenkeepers. This organization plans to provide an opportunity to look over any courses in the Washington, Baltimore, or Richmond districts, as the visitors may choose. June, 1929 103 Chicago Meeting It is planned to meet at the experimental turf garden on Mr. Lasker’s course at 10 o’clock Monday morning, August 26. The new experimental turf garden will then be thoroughly explained to the assembled group. Immediately afterward a short tour of the course will be made and the chief points of interest called to the attention of the visitors. A luncheon will then be served on the estate. The Mill Road Farm Golf Course presents many problems of in­ terest to the golfer as well as the greenkeeper, and Mr. Lasker has kindly consented to extend to the visitors the privileges of the course. To this end a tournament will be arranged to take place in the afternoon. Members of the Green Section staff will be at the experimental garden throughout the day ready to discuss the work with any who do not wish to play golf or with those whose business prevents their attendance early in the day. In the evening a dinner will be arranged under the direction of the Chicago District Golf Association Green Section. An informal discussion will follow this dinner. The second day of the program will be in charge of the Mid West Greenkeepers’ Association. Plans will be made on Monday, August 26, to group the visitors for Tuesday’s tour of golf courses in the Chicago district under the direction of the local greenkeepers’ asso­ ciation. Government Laboratory Saves a Man $4,300 An example of laboratory findings as an aid to the farmer is cited in a recent issue of the United States Department of Agriculture Official Record. While the instance cited may not apply directly to golf courses, it nevertheless brings out the value of cooperation be­ tween the agricultural scientist in his laboratory and the practical man in the field, provided the latter chooses to avail himself of advice offered. The Record states: “E. E. Horn, district investigator connected with the Rodent Con­ trol Methods Research Laboratory of the Bureau of Biological Survey at Denver, Colo., reports to the bureau that recommendations made recently by the laboratory to a single California rancher enabled the rancher to save about $4,300, or nearly enough money to pay the sal­ ary and expenses of the investigator in the California district for a year. The rancher, of Santa Clara County, was about to fumigate 4,500 acres of land with carbon disulphide to get rid of ground squirrels, which it was estimated would have cost him about $4,500. However, the laboratory had knowledge gained from experiments which indicated that carbon disulphide was not likely to give much control of ground squirrels under the conditions prevailing on the area. So instead of using the carbon disulphide as a fumigant the rancher used a poison mixture recommended by the laboratory— steam-crushed oats and thallium sulphate. The treatment with the mixture cost the rancher about $200 instead of the $4,500. The value of the work of the laboratory in California alone this year, in the form of more effective control of destructive rodents and increase in the production of crops as a result of such control, promises to be far greater than the entire cost of the laboratory.” 104 Vol. 9, No. 6 Books for the Greenkeeper’s Library The Green Section has frequently been asked to recommend books and pamphlets of value to those interested in turf culture. During the past season, in our exhibits at golf shows, we have included a collection of books and pamphlets containing information directly or indirectly related to golf course maintenance. Many who have looked over this collection have asked that a complete list be published in the Bulletin. The following list is offered as an aid to those who wish to collect a library on golf course maintenance problems. Al­ though by no means complete, the list was selected to cover a wide field as a basis for a greenkeeper’s library. A large number of United States Department of Agriculture and State bulletins are included, which, although dealing chiefly with farm problems, contain informa­ tion applicable to golf course problems. Most of these latter publica­ tions may be obtained free on application. Those published by the United States Department of Agriculture may be secured by writing to the Office of Information, Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. State bulletins may be obtained by writing to the issuing institution at the addresses given. ARCHITECTURE Golf Architecture. Mackenzie. Golf Architecture. Colt and Alison. Golf Course Architecture in America. Thomas. The Links. Robert Hunter. BIRDS Bird Houses and How to Build Them. Farmers’ Bulletin 609. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. How to Attract Birds in Northeastern United States. Farmers’ Bulle­ tin 621. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Common Birds of Southeastern United States. Farmers’ Bulletin 755. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. How to Attract Birds in Northwestern United States. Farmers’ Bulle­ tin 760. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. How to Attract Birds in Middle Atlantic States. Farmers’ Bulletin 844. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. How to Attract Birds in East Central States. Farmers’ Bulletin 912. Homes for Birds. Farmers’ Bulletin 1456. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Gray’s New Manual of Botany. BOTANY CLEARING LAND Boring Taprooted Stumps for Blasting. Farmers’ Bulletin 600. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Dept, of Agriculture. Clearing Land of Brush and Stumps. Farmers’ Bulletin 1526. U. S. Clearing Land. Farmers’ Bulletin 974. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. DRAINAGE Practical Farm Drainage. Elliott. Textbook of Land Drainage. J. A. Jeffrey. Tile Drainage. Special Bulletin 56. Michigan Agricultural College, East Lansing, Mich. June, 1929 105 Pump Drainage on the University of Wisconsin Marsh. Research Bulletin 50. University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wis. Drain Wet Fields. Bulletin 365. University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wis. Farm Drainage. Bulletin 178. University of Oregon, Eugene, Oreg. Tile Trenching Machinery. Farmers’ Bulletin 1131* U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Destructive and Useful Insects. Metcalf and Flint. School Entomology. Sanderson and Pears. ENTOMOLOGY FERTILIZERS Fertilizers (2d edition). Voorhees. Fertilizers and Crops. Van Slyke. Manures and Fertilizers. Wheeler. American Fertilizer Handbook for 1928. Fertilizers for Special Crops (1926). Bulletin 383. Agricultural Experi­ ment Station, Madison, Wis. Report on Inspection of Commercial Fertilizers (1928). Bulletin 296. Agricultural Experiment Station, New Haven, Conn. Fertilizers and Crops and Marsh Soils (1927). Bulletin 392. Agricul­ tural Experiment Station, Madison, Wis. Soils and Fertilizers. Bulletin 322. Department of Agriculture, Toronto, Loss of Fertilizers by Leaching. Bulletin 132. University of Florida, Ontario, Canada. Gainesville, Fla. GRASSES Forage Plants. Piper. A Textbook of Grasses. Hitchcock. Bermuda Grass. Farmers’ Bulletin 814. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Important Cultivated Grasses. Farmers’ Bulletin 1254. U. S. Dept, of Cultivated Grasses of Secondary Importance. Farmers’ Bulletin 1433. Agriculture. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. The Complete Garden. Albert D. Taylor. LANDSCAPING PESTS The Japanese Beetle. Circular 419. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Earthworms as Pests and Otherwise. Farmers’ Bulletin 1569. U S Dept, of Agriculture. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Dept, of Agriculture. House Ants; Kinds and Methods of Control. Farmers’ Bulletin 740. The Chinch Bug in Relation to St. Augustine Grass. Circular 51 US Physics of Agriculture. King. PHYSICS SOILS Soil Management (2d edition). Firman E. Bear. Soils. Hilgard. Soils. S. W. Fletcher. Soil Management. King. Grouping Soils on the Basis of Mechanical Analysis. Circular 419 Quality and Value of Important Types of Peat Material. Bulletin 402 U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. 106 Vol. 9, No. 6 TREES Trees for Roadside Planting. Farmers’ Bulletin 1482. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Tree Surgery.. Farmers’ Bulletin 1178. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. TURF CULTURE (Maintenance) Turf for Golf Courses. Piper and Oakley. A B C of Turf Culture. Noer. WATER SUPPLY Farm Plumbing. Farmers’ Bulletin 1426. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Farmstead Water supply. Farmers’ Bulletin 1448. Li. S. Dept, of Agriculture. WEEDS Weeds—How to Control Them. Farmers’ Bulletin 660. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Pennsylvania Weeds (1927). General Bulletin 448. Pennsylvania Dept, of Agriculture, Harrisburg, Pa. Some Farm Weeds; How to Know and Control Them (1924). Circular 171. Extension Service, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wis. Weeds of New Jersey (1924). Agricultural Experiment Station, New Bruns­ Idaho Weeds (1926). Extension Bulletin 56. College of Agriculture, MISCELLANEOUS Tractors in Arkansas. Bulletin 186. Agricultural Experiment Station, Roses for the Home. Farmers’ Bulletin 750. U. S. Dept, of Agriculture. Flytraps and Their Operation. Farmers’ Bulletin 734. U. S. Dept, wick, N. J. Moscow, Idaho. Fayetteville, Ark. of Agriculture. Research Work Planned in Great Britain In the February, 1929, issue of Golf Illustrated (London), Sir Robert Greig writes on the many changes which have come about in greenkeeping practices during recent years. His observations will no doubt be interesting to readers of the Bulletin and we are there­ fore quoting freely from his article. It is gratifying to note that the accomplishments of our Green Section are appreciated abroad no less than at home, and that a similar organization has been formed in Great Britain. Sir Robert writes: “The science or art of greenkeeping is comparatively new. On the older seaside courses almost no greenkeeping was required. If it had been necessary to cut and roll the putting greens there would have been no golf until the mowing machine was invented about fifty years ago, as even the most skilled scytheman could not have mown a putting green. The first effective greenkeepers were the rabbits, and on some courses the rabbits, in spite of their disadvantages, are still excellent mowers. On one course at least the greens rarely require any attention beyond brushing away the rabbit droppings. But even the most hungry and hardworking rabbits were uncertain in their mowing, and some of the old greens were not too good. On one famous course there was a rule that the ball for the drive to the next hole had to be teed on the putting green. Moreover, old Tom Morris June, 1929 107 used to say that there should be ‘nae puttin’,’ meaning that the pitch or run up should always be so dead that the putter was not required. “Times have changed, and a good player wants now to have a reasonable chance to hole a 10-foot putt, a feat which would have been a pure fluke in earlier days. It is a question if we are not making too much of the putting in the interests of the game, but whether we are or not, the demand is for true uniform surfaces, and the convener of the greens committee hears more of his in­ competence in the maintenance of putting greens than he does of weedkilling or keeping a good fairway. Very well—if good putting greens are wanted, how are they to be got? Obviously by applying the knowledge that exists and by seeking for more knowledge. A good deal of empirical knowledge does exist in regard to the art of greenkeeping, but it is buried away in a number of hard Scottish and other heads and is difficult to extract, and at present not available to all inquirers. A considerable body of scientific knowledge has been built up by the Golfers’ Research Association of America,* and has been added to by Mr. Hackett and others, but here again it is only known to a few enthusiasts who are probably regarded as cranks. The first problem then is to get together the knowledge that does exist and make it available to all. The second problem is by scientific research to add to the existing knowledge and fill up the blanks in our ignorance. This is an operation that will never cease, but there is no reason why it should never begin.” Referring to some of the most obnoxious British turf weeds, Sir Robert continues: “Why should we not always have a good brassie lie if we have steered a drive to the proper place? It is a matter of grass—the right grass and the absence of weeds and bare patches. It may seem to the ordinary golfer that it should be quite easy to grow grass. So it is, but there is grass and grass, and the grass that makes all flesh is not the grass to play on or to putt on. The grasses that the cow disdains are the grasses that the golfer wants. Moreover the grasses that make a putting green or fairway will grow well only on a suitable soil medium, and that is a medium or soil condition which a farmer tries to avoid. “There are some courses on heavy clays which can never have the keenness and resilience of seaside turf unless they are resown or re­ grown on a new and replaced artificial soil, but even the most difficult subjects are capable of amelioration. It is sometimes said that our present greens are not like the very keen, very fine greens such as those of Gullane or St. Andrews thirty years ago, and that we should try to recover these. But such greens, while suitable for the gutta ball and a limited number of games in a day, would not stand up against modern continuous use, nor would the rubber-cored ball be easy to control on such a surface. It may not be impossible, however, to make a green which will suit the ball of today, and yet be as true and keen as the old ones were supposed to be. But we do not know and we must find out. Our problem is great because golf is played in Great Britain on probably a greater variety of soils and climates and altitudes than in any other country—and what is true of one • Sir Robert no doubt refers to the United States Golf Association Green Section.__Editors. ■108 Vol. 9, No. 6 place is not necessarily true of another. But that only makes the investigation more interesting, and eventually more valuable, and emphasizes the immediate need for research. “In order to lighten our darkness the Joint Advisory Committee, representing the golf clubs of Great Britain and Ireland, have ap­ proved of a scheme for scientific research, and all the National Golf Unions have undertaken to support it. The scheme requires that golfers shall have faith and in the belief that what science has done for industry and every aspect of human life it can do for golf courses; they are asked to subscribe to a research organization. This organ­ ization will have two main functions—viz, to collect and summarize and distribute information on the subject of greenkeeping, and in the second place to investigate the problems of greenkeeping, for ex­ ample, the best grasses, fertilizers, and methods of cultivation and maintenance of greens under dissimilar conditions of soil and climate; the control or elimination of weeds; the control of insect pests which are ruinous to some greens; and any other problems on which greens committees and greenkeepers require information. Judging from the success of the American Golfers’ Research Association the small sub­ scriptions required of each club will be many times repaid by the additional pleasure which the game will give when played under better conditions. But golfers must be patient. They must not ex­ pect quick returns. Research is slow, but it is very sure, and it pays not in fives and tens but ultimately in hundreds and thousands per cent.” Nobody Can Make It Rain Some years ago a man went through certain drought-stricken regions in this country contracting to produce an inch or more of rainfall for a consideration of $1,000 per inch within a period of three months. If the rain came, the fees were collected; if it did not, the man lost nothing. Inasmuch as the average amount of rainfall for each region is accurately recorded, and since precipitation is quite likely to occur naturally after a long drought and within the limits of the record, a shrewd operator is fairly safe in agreeing to “pro­ duce” rain. But according to the Weather Bureau of the United States De­ partment of Agriculture, “rain making” is impossible for any human being. It is quite true that in the laboratory a small amount of mois­ ture can be precipitated by using special equipment, but meteorolo­ gists know of no practical scheme for producing rain on a large scale. Widespread drought is due to lack of sufficient moisture in the atmos­ phere and the absence of other conditions essential to the formation of rain. If there is little moisture to bring down, obviously no device for causing rainfall has any value. To produce 1 inch of rainfall over an area of an acre, approxi­ mately 113 tons of moisture would have to be drawn up into the air and then precipitated. There are 640 acres in a square mile, for which 72,320 tons of moisture would be required. A square mile, however, would be scarcely a dot in the center of any section where drought prevails. Enormous quantities of energy are used in nature to elevate moisture above the earth before it can be precipitated. It takes 5,000,000 to 10,000,000 horsepower-hours to evaporate the water June, 1929 109 in a square mile of the average dense cloud, and even if some artificial means were found to cause the aggregation and fall of the infinitesi­ mal drops of which rain is composed, calculation shows that only a trifling amount of precipitation would result, because there is not much water in such a cloud. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS All questions sent to the Green Section will be answered in a letter to the writer as promptly as possible. The more interesting of these questions, with concise answers, will appear in this column. If your ex­ perience leads you to disagree with any answer given in this column, it it your privilege and duty to write to the Green Section. While most of the answers are of general application, please bear in mind that each recommendation is intended specifically for the locality designated at the end of the question. Responsibilities of a green-committee member.—I have recently been appointed as a member of the green committee of our club and should appreciate such information as you may be able to furnish with regard to the duties of such a position. (Pennsylvania.) Answer.—It is customary for the chairman of the committee to shoulder all the duties and to consult his committee only when he contemplates some drastic change in procedure and needs moral or perhaps financial support. It is probable that this one-man-committee custom is, after all, the best, since the greenkeeper thus receives orders from only one man and therefore not conflicting advice from different sources. The members of the committee, if they care to be active, should advise their chairman, but in no case bother the greenkeeper. It will avoid confusion and be much fairer if the greenkeeper re­ ceives the wishes of the committee through its designated spokesman, the chairman. Also the green committee should protect the man whom they trust to care for the course (the greenkeeper), from all possible interference of unauthorized advisors. It is lamentably the custom with some clubs to permit any club member to hamper the greenkeeper with suggestions concerning his duties, a procedure which is certain to antagonize him. Suggestions, criticisms, and com­ plaints on matters of course maintenance should be received from club members by members of the green committee only. The com­ mittee should advertise the fact that the purpose of the green com­ mittee is to effect a close liaison between the club members and the greenkeeper. Worthwhile suggestions should be welcomed and action should be taken on constructive criticisms; but the opinions of the membership as interpreted and investigated by the green committee should be passed on to the greenkeeper only by its official spokesman, the chairman of the committee. If the greenkeeper is keeping a fine course at an expense which compares favorably with that of other courses of a similar type, the chairman will probably be active only when the yearly budget is being made up, and the greenkeeper will have need of the committee only when something unusual occurs or is about to happen. If the greenkeeper does not seem to understand 110 Vol. 9, No. 6 his business it will then be the duty of the green committee to in­ vestigate. The committee should check up on costs and on the cul­ tural practices being followed, and should study the subject suffi­ ciently to be able to form an opinion as to whether or not the green­ keeper is keeping himself well posted on the scientific as well as the practical phases of his business. The committee should also be able to determine whether or not he has his job organized and is getting the most out of his labor. They should also determine whether or not he uses discretion in making purchases for the course. And most important of all, they should ascertain whether or not the course can be put in shape to please the majority of the members> and, if it can, why that has not been done. The facts may show that the green­ keeper has been handicapped by his previous committee and that with the support of the new committee, which has studied his problems, he can quickly show results. On the other hand, should the investiga­ tion by the new committee show that the greenkeeper is hopelessly out of date, extravagant with the club’s money, and not particularly ambitious to give the players the most for their money, it may be the duty of the committee to secure a better man for the job. Additional suggestions on this subject may be found in the following numbers of the Bulletin: September, 1923, page 230; October, 1924, page 234; December, 1926, page 254; February, 1929, page 30. Effect of nitrogenous fertilizers when applied to turf during hot weather.—I have read a good many articles during the last six months, some of them prepared by men of national repute in their line, on the dangers of applying fertilizers with high nitrogenous content in the hot summer months, basing their advice not on opinion but on fact. One would be apt to gather from these articles that fertilizers high in nitrogenous content would, under such conditions, do more harm than good. I recognize, of course, that such fertilizers have to be used with extreme care; but at the same time I am unable to see how, if you apply no nitrogen through the summer months, you can make up for the loss incurred by grass due to constant close cutting. It would seem that theoretically the ideal fertilizing plan would be to bring one’s greens to perfection in the late spring, with the grass not forced but strong and vigorous, and then to hold that balance, varying treatments with weather conditions. Such a plan would call for replacing in exact amount the various chemicals lost. In such a case nitrogen would certainly be required. If such a plan is theoretically sound it would seem to be not a matter of withholding nitrogen for fear of injury to the grass, but of learning the correct amount to be applied and correct method of application. Condemning its use because of its constant misuse is not the best method of en­ couraging cautious experiments. If my understanding in this matter is not sound I should appreciate your advice. (Pennsylvania.) Answer.—Reports have recently appeared from many reputable turf experts warning against the overfeeding of turf with nitrogen during the hot months. We are in accord with this advice, since there is ample reason to suspect that a soft, lush grass is not hardy enough in hot weather to withstand various fungous diseases or physiological changes to which the plant is subjected. Often there is sufficient nitrogen being released by soil micro-organisms from June, 1929 111 material already in the soil to attend to the needs of turf grasses during the hottest months of the summer. Most soils on putting greens would oe fertile enough to support the grass during hot weather without other than very light feeding with nitrogenous fer­ tilizers. The grass grows rather slowly in such seasons and does not require much plant food. Furthermore it is better to have the turf go on color a httie than to have it a luxuriant green and hence liable to infections or injury common to turf in humid hot weather. We are in perfect accord with you that theoretically the ideal fertilizing plan would be to have the greens in perfect condition in the late spring, with the grass of normal vigor. The fertilizing of the grass should be reduced m the late spring. This is what horticulturists call hardening off. It would not be advisable to have a fast-growing, soft grass enter the hot summer. You are perfectly correct in doubt­ ing tnat fertilizers high in nitrogen are particularly dangerous. If greenkeepers would study the needs of the grass, correct amounts could be used according to requirements; and if soft growth were not forced during hot weather we think there would be less trouble with turf. Preventive measures in brown-patch control; use of power sprayer for applying mercury compounds.—Our greens are creeping bent planted from stolons and contain also much annual bluegrass. Last season they suffered from brown-patch much less than the greens on several neighboring courses, a fact which we attribute to our having reduced the quantity of water and fertilizer applied to the greens. As an additional preventive measure this spring we limed the greens. Several of our neighboring courses use a power sprayer for applying mercury preparations in brown-patch control, considering this the best method of application. We are wondering whether, in view of the measures we have taken to prevent extensive injury from brown­ patch, it would be advisable for us to go to the expense of purchasing a power sprayer for use in brown-patch control. The apparatus would cost about $900. In case we should purchase a sprayer, which of the mercury compounds could be safely used in it? (Pennsylvania.) Answer.—Any of the mercury compounds may be used in a power sprayer provided the tank contains a good agitator for keeping the mixture thoroughly churned during the application. There is a great deal to be said in favor of a power sprayer for applying mercury compounds. We do not regard it as the best means for applying those chemicals, but it is perhaps the most rapid means and is entirely satisfactory. There are several methods, which may be classified as best, though under somewhat different conditions. If by your method of handling the greens you find it is unnecessary to make frequent applications of mercury preparations it would perhaps not pay you to invest in an expensive spray outfit. If you can maintain your greens by the method you have used without relying on mercury treatments, we would advise you to continue with those methods. Chemical means of controlling disease we regard as emergency treat­ ments. The situation is similar to that of human disease. There are persons who, in spite of everything they do to keep well, require fre­ quent advice from physicians and frequent use of medicine, while there are others who, apparently without much effort, keep in good 112 Vol. 9, No. 6 health without resort to medicine. Proper balance of food, exercise, and attention to other hygienic measures go far in preserving health. Where it has been found that it is necessary to apply mercury fungi­ cides frequently in order to prevent damage from brown-patch, the power sprayer is undoubtedly the best means of application, since it does the work so much more quickly, and the overhead of the original cost is not such a big item. Endurance of nitrogen in the soil.—We have been offered a 4-12-4 fertilizer, at a fancy price, the nitrates in which are claimed to have nine distinct stages in the process of becoming available as plant food. Could we procure a similar fertilizer at less cost by mixing the constituents ourselves? (California.) Answer.—The fertilizer to which you refer undoubtedly has merit, but we consider its price as out of proportion to its value. As far as we have been able to ascertain, there is no foundation for the claim that nitrogen becomes more beneficial to plants as the number of stages in its process of becoming available increases. It is true that nitrogen in some forms of fertilizer is available much more slowly than in other forms. However, under certain climatic condi­ tions a fertilizer which is rated as slowly available may disintegrate very rapidly and thus be available to the plants in a relatively short time regardless of any number of “distinct stages” that may be in­ volved in the process. We contradict any claim that nitrogen in any fertilizer will produce quick growth and at the same time have last­ ing qualities, unless it is applied in large quantities. Nitrogen in a form that is slowly available to the plant is of no use to the plant in its early stages. Our experience with golf course turf is that nitro­ gen can be applied more economically and more advantageously in relatively small quantities at frequent intervals than in larger quan­ tities at less frequent intervals with a view to creating a reservoir of nitrogen in the soil. Before purchasing any quantity of the fer­ tilizer which you mention we suggest that you get in touch with some reputable fertilizer dealer in your vicinity and compare the price of this fertilizer with his price on a fertilizer of a similar formula, or preferably one having a higher proportion of nitrogen. In the for­ mula you mention the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus and potash is very low for turf production. If it contained more nitrogen, regard­ less of the method of its becoming available, you would probably find the grass would respond much more promptly. If you want a lasting fertilizer you can buy it in several forms. If you want a quickly act­ ing fertilizer you can get it in different forms also, which we are sure would cost you less than the material to which you refer. Neutralizing the alkalinity of lime in sand used in compost.—An analysis of three samples of sand available for use in compost for top­ dressing our bent greens shows the lime (oxide of calcium) content to be respectively as follows: 6.52 per cent, 7.82 per cent, and 9.59 per cent. Our compost consists of top soil, sand, and fertilizer. Is the lime content too high in any of these samples? What is the high­ est percentage of lime in sand that can be safely used on bent turf? (New York.) Answer.—One part of burned lime (oxide of calcium) is equiv­ alent to 1.78 parts of limestone (carbonate of calcium.) The sand June, 1929 113 containing the lowest percentage of oxide of calcium, 6.52 per cent, therefore carries the alkaline equivalent of 11.6 per cent of lime­ stone. One ton of this sand would accordingly contain the equivalent of 232 pounds of limestone. In case this sand constituted one-third of the material in your compost, one ton of compost would contain 77 1/3 pounds of limestone. It takes about 65 pounds of sulphate of ammonia to neutralize the alkalinity of 100 pounds of limestone. Therefore it would require about 50 pounds of sulphate of ammonia to neutralize the alkalinity of the sand in one ton of your compost, one-third of which was made up of your sand of 6.52 per cent lime. It is doubtful that greens ever receive this quantity of sulphate of ammonia between successive top-dressings, and therefore the con­ tinued use of this sand without the addition of sufficient sulphate of ammonia would tend to make the soil of your greens increasingly alkaline. Value and use of muck.—We have a large supply of muck soil on our course and it would be advantageous if we could use more of it than we have been using. In employing it for top-dressing our greens and approaches we have found that it bakes extremely hard in warm weather. We believe also that it tends to make the soil sour. It seems to prevent the grass from knitting properly in spots on our approaches and fairways. When we mix the muck with sharp sand, it looks like loam but feels heavier on account of the clay it contains. Our fairways are naturally quite sandy. When mixed with sand and used on our greens the muck makes the greens hard and very fast. After we work it into the turf it seems to cake at the roots of the grass. We have used no material to assist in the decomposition of the muck and are trying to get the correct proportion of the right material to add to it in order to develop its real growing value. We are top-dressing our fairways with manure where this muck has been used, in the hope of encouraging a better growth of grass. The grass which has come up under treatment with fertilizer is very good. Samples of this muck soil have been sent to analysts, who have com­ mended its value and advised us that it was well supplied with plant food. What do you think of adding to each ton of manure 75 pounds of muriate of potash and 75 pounds of 16 per cent acid phosphate in order to improve its value? Could this mixture be added to the manure that we might use for decomposing the muck? Can this type of soil be safely used in the delicate work on a golf course? (Massa­ chusetts.) Answer.—Except for perhaps a very thin top layer, muck found in beds or deep layers is usually quite inert and has comparatively little plant food value until it is mixed with soil, aerated, and other­ wise broken down. This breaking down is caused for the most part by microscopic organisms in the soil. These organisms do not work in the muck as it is found in its native environment. By simply mixing the muck with sharp sand and spreading it on the surface, the soil would change its composition very little and the combination would be liable to give results such as you describe. We are very much in favor of composting muck before using it on the golf course. The compost pile should be built up in alternating layers of your natural soil, fresh manure, and muck. Top soil can be prepared from muck by plowing it and disking in from 10 to 20 tons of manure to 114 Vol. 9, No. 6 the acre. In your locality the addition of several tons of lime to the acre would also be beneficial. A muck bed so prepared and frequently plowed and disked would become quite fertile and would be in good condition for mixing with soil. There are few cases in which it would be advisable to use material so rich in organic matter as muck, in its pure state, even after being treated in the manner we describe. In its native condition muck contains very little phosphorus and potash. With the addition of manure some phosphorus and potash are added and the phosphorus and potash already contained in the muck are rendered more available. However, you would improve your muck considerably by the addition of muriate of potash and acid phosphate, as you suggest. In composting the muck, 75 pounds of acid phos­ phate and 45 pounds of muriate of potash could be added to each ton of muck as it is laid down in the compost pile. The addition of nitrogen also greatly improves northern mucks, and in this respect if you should desire faster decomposition and more nitrogen it would be advisable to add about 50 pounds of sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda to each ton of muck. The compost pile should then be allowed to heat and should be turned several times. If the pile were mixed in the manner we describe, the addition of sand might not be neces­ sary. However, after decomposition has taken place and the layers of the pile have been thoroughly mixed by frequent turning, you would be able to judge whether the addition of some sharp sand would improve the texture of the compost. Such a compost pile should be ideal for use on putting greens. Estimated cost of building a green and planting it with bent stolons.—Have you figures suitable for a small club as to what it should cost to build and plant a green from creeping bent stolons? Our soil is mostly sandy. (Minnesota.) Answer.—One hundred square feet of creeping bent sod should furnish sufficient stolons for planting an area ,of 1,000 square feet. This quantity of stolons would cost about $15 plus freight. To grade and shape a green of about 6,000 square feet with only a slight eleva­ tion above ground level, would cost from $100 to $200 provided the fill could be scraped from a trap built adjacent to the green; if the fill had to be loaded and hauled it would cost nearly three times that amount. If the top soil is quite sandy it would be wise to change its texture to that of a sandy loam by adding such materials as clay, loam, or humus, together with manure. From 20 to 40 cubic yards of clay, loam, or humus would probably suffice, and from 10 to 20 tons of well-rotted manure would be beneficial. These materials could be hauled, spread, and mixed with the top soil on the green at a cost of from 40 to 60 cents a yard, exclusive of cost of delivery to your prop­ erty. Six yards of sifted soil would be required to top-dress the stolons at the time of planting. If the top soil of the green were properly prepared, money could be saved by skimming this quantity of soil from the green and sifting it close by, which would cost about $2 a yard; otherwise sifted soil from the compost pile could be used, at such cost as might be involved. Shredding, cutting, and broad­ casting stolons would cost from $15 to $20, these figures covering also the cost of covering the stolons after they are broadcast. It is not likely that tile-draining would be necessary with a sandy subsoil, such as you have. June, 1929 115 The total cost of this work should amount to between $275 and $550 when scrapers are used, and between $475 and $950 when fill has to be hauled. How frequently to water bent greens.—Will you kindly inform us how much greens just planted with the Washington strain of bent stolons should be watered ? Some advise wetting every three or four days, other advise soaking the greens every day. (New Jersey.) Answer.—The amount of water required by turf depends largely on soil and weather conditions. The ordinary practice on putting greens is to water as often as necessary to keep the soil moist. Usu­ ally in dry weather it is necessary to water every day to keep bent in the best condition. Three-day or four-day intervals apparently are too long for most soils. Many defects of a golf course are caused, or at least greatly exaggerated, by excessive watering. There is a de­ cided difference between moist soil favorable to plant growth and the water-soaked condition one frequently finds on greens. The best way to determine whether a green is getting the right amount of water is to cut into the turf occasionally to see whether the soil is soaked or dried out. Your attention is invited to the July, 1928, number of the Bulletin, in which the subject of watering is fully discussed. Ridding putting greens of pearlwort.—A weed called pearlwort has invaded the greens on our course. This weed is first noticeable when a number of plants of it are found crowded together in the shape of a small circle. Later these patches spread so that ultimately large areas of grass are crowded out. Is there any method of keep­ ing pearlwort under control? (Washington.) Answer.—This weed is very common on some courses, particu­ larly on poorly drained greens. Brown-patch frequently kills pearl­ wort, since it is more susceptible to this disease than most of the turf grasses. If it is only found in a few scattered areas on the green it will be easy to remove it by hand. When it is pretty thoroughly dis­ tributed over the green it would be justifiable to make a general treatment on the green. Pearlwort is more easily burned with sul­ phate of ammonia than turf grasses are, so that by applying sufficient sulphate to slightly burn the turf the pearlwort will be badly injured. Such treatments repeated from time to time will entirely kill out pearlwort but will not injure the greens, since the grass will quickly recover after each treatment. Controlling earthworms with arsenate of lead.—My lawn is badly infested with earthworms. I have heard that these pests can be con­ trolled with arsenate of lead. What advice can you give me as to the use of this chemical for the purpose? (Illinois.) Answer.—On most soils arsenate of lead will prevent worms from being active at the surface. The chemical should be applied at the rate of 5 pounds to 1,000 square feet. It is well to mix it with dry soil in order to increase the bulk and thus insure a more even dis­ tribution. It should be broadcast evenly over the turf, after which it is well to drag a mat over the surface so as to work the chemical down to the soil by brushing it from the grass blades. An application of arsenate of lead will keep out worms for considerably over a year on some soils, but it may be required more often on others. The books which help you most are those which make you think the most. The hardest way of learning is by easy reading: every man that tries it finds it so. —Theodore Parker.