Bulletin of the Green Section 
of the U. S. Golf Association

Vol. II 

Washington, D. C., April 26, 1922 

No. 4

A MONTHLY PERIODICAL TO PROMOTE THE 
BETTERMENT OF GOLF COURSES

CONTENTS
Sense or Nonsense in Experiments... ...........................         106
See That Your Greenkeeper Receives the Bulletin.... ...............................    106
Books and Bulletins for Reading and Reference...................   107
Brown-Patch and the Bordeaux Treatment. Lyman Carrier......................   109
Soil Beds for Use on Golf Courses and How They Can Be Made at a

Very Small Cost. William Connellan............................     116

The Fallacy of Sowing Fine Turf Grasses in Spring. C. V. Piper and

R. A. Oakley..... ...........     119
Watering the Fairways. Frank L. Woodward  .....:.......    121
Distribution of Maintenance Costs. Adolph F. Seubert...................................  124
Questions and Answers.. ....       133
Meditations of a Peripatetic Golfer............................    136

MEMBERS OF THE GREEN COMMITTEE OF THE UNITED STATES 
GOLF ASSOCIATION:

*C. V. Piper, Chairman
Dr. R. A. Oakley, Vice-Chairman
*E. J. Marshall, Vice-Chairman Inverness Club
Old Elm Club
W. A. Alexander
Hollywood Golf Club
Frank B. Barrett
Waverly Country Club
A. C, U. Berry
Minikahda Club
Wm. F. Brooks
Dallas Country Club
C. B. Buxton
Toronto Golf Club
A. H. Campbell
Agawam Hunt Club
N. Stuart Campbell
Glen Echo Country Club
W. C. Ferguson
Oakmont Country Club
Wm. C. Fownes. Jb.
Columbia Country Club
»Dr. Walter S. Harban
Druid Hills Golf Club
Dr. Thos. P. Hinman
Detroit Golf Club
A. J. Hood
The Country Club
Frederic C. Hood
Wilshire Country Club
Norman Macbeth
Indian Hill Club
A. E. McCordic
Florida Country Club
L. C. Menager
Yahnundasis Golf Club
Sherrill Sherman
Ekwanok Country Club
James L. Taylor
•Wynant D. Vanderpool
Morris County Golf Club
Louisville Country Club
W. R. Willett
Pine Valley Golf Club
♦Alan D. Wilson
Denver Country Club
Frank L. Woodward

Washington, D. C.
Washington, D. C.
Toledo. Ohio
Fort Sheridan, Ill.
Deal. N. J.
Portland. Ore.
Minneapolis, Minn.
Dallas, Tex.
Toronto, Ont.
Providence, R. I.
Normandy, Mo.
Pittsburgh, Pa.
Washington, D. C.
Atlanta, Ga.
Detroit. Mich.
Brookline, Mass.
Los Angeles. Calif.
Winnetka. III.
Ortega, Fla.
Utica, N. Y.
Manchester, Vt.
Convent Station, N. J.
Louisville, Ky.
Clementon. N. J.
Denver, Colo.

* Executive Committee member. 

PERMANENT MEMBERS
Hugh I. Wilson. Merion Cricket Club. Haverford, Pa.
F. H. Hillman, Washington, D. C.
W. H. Walton, Washington, D. C.
Lyman> Carrier, Washington, D. C.

Published by the Green Committee of the United States Golf Association, 459 Louisiana Ave­

nue, Washington. D. C.

Subscription price: To golf clubs that are members of the Green Section of the U. S. Golf 

Association, il.oo per year (included in membership fee).

Entered as second-class matter December 16, 1921, at the post office at Washington, D. C., 

under the Act of March 3. 1879.

Copyright, 1922, by the Green Committee of the U. S. Golf Association. Permission is 
granted to republish in any golf periodical any article appearing in this journal provided credit 
is acknowledged in the following words after the caption of the article, “Reprinted from the 
Bulletin of the Green Section of the United States Golf Association.”

106 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. 11, No. 4

Sense or Nonsense in Experiments

The average greenkeeper looks with something akin to dread upon an 
incoming green committee at the beginning of each year. He knows that 
if the personnel of the committee has been changed he will be asked to apply' 
a lot of new, half-baked notions that are contrary to his practice. There 
is something so obvious and simple about growing grass that everyone 
even the cliff-dweller of the city, thinks he can speak with authority.

Every golf course should be maintained on some definite program year 
in and year out. The past should be kept as the standard, unless a depar­
ture is warranted by some good reason, and the reason should be good. 
Changes of program should be made sensibly wnth a clear view of the 
results that may be expected. There is no sense in trying anvthing and 
everything. Many a green has been ruined by that sort of thing. Just 
because someone learns that the experiments of the Rhode Island Experi­
ment Station have shown that the continued use of sulfate of ammonia 
induces a soil condition that is beneficial to bent grasses and detrimental 
to weeds, don’t think that this can be accomplished all at once bv an 
overdose, but first learn all the facts about existing conditions, the faults 
to be corrected, the remedy to be applied, and the results to be expected. 
Go at it sensibly, with a full knowledge of the situation. If someone savs 
that a moving equipment of some other make is better than the equip­
ment in use, find out why before making the change and getting an 
assortment of different makes on hand. On one. course, we know of four 
different makes of mowing machines that -were in use—clearly a waste of 
money. Results can never be gained by changing about from one thing to 
another. , "While we advise conservatism in changes of program of treat­
ment from one year to another, we insist that it should be progressive 
conservatism. Every greenkeeper and green-committeeman should keen 
posted and up to date on all matters relating to turf growing. He should 
know what others are doing, and particularly what remedies or treatment 
may be applied to correct conditions that are faulty; but careful study and 
consideration should precede any change.

Never, in anv circumstances, make a change of treatment or attempt 
an experiment without leaving a check—an unchanged spot to be used as 
a basis of comparison. The combination of horse-sense and horse-manure 
is hard to beat, and it will be well to use it as a starting point for every­
thing. There is no obligation to try everything that appears in The 
Bulletin. Go along in the old way until by careful study convincing 
evidence is available that a change is needed, and then make, it sensibly 
and leave a check.

See That Your Greenkeeper Receives The Bulletin
The Green Committee observes that a good many clubs are having at 
least one of the two copies of The Bulletin mailed to the club itself. The 
man who shoulders the bulk of the responsibility for the upkeep of your 
turf is your greenkeeper. It is he above all who should receive The 
Bulletin. Copies should go to him addressed either to his residence, or 
in care of the club in such manner that they will unfailingly fall into his 
hands. If your greenkeeper’s name and address are not on the mailing list 
for The Bulletin, send this information at once to the Green Committee.

April 26. 1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

107

Any number of additional subscriptions may be obtained, for members 
of the club only, at $2.00 for the year 1922, when applied for by the 
Secretary of the club.

The Green Committee of the U. S. Golf Association is always glad to 

publish items showing how work around courses can best be done.

Back Numbers of the 1921 Bulletins

Only the July, August, September, October, November, and December 
numbers of the 1921 Bulletin are now available. These may be obtained 
by member-clubs at 20 cents per copy.

Books and Bulletins for Reading and Reference

It will pay every golf club to have a small library of well-selected 
publications for the use of the green committee and the greenkeeper. 
We have, therefore, prepared the following list covering most of the 
topics that are of importance or interest in connection with a golf course. 
In addition to these publications, the catalogues and other advertising 
matter sent out by dealers and manufacturers are often very desirable 
for reference. In ordering a book always ask for the latest edition.

Books

Manual of Weeds. Ada, Georgia. The Macmillan Co., 66 Fifth Ave., New 

York, N. Y. A popular, profusely illustrated treatment of the subject.

Farm Manures. C. E. Thorne. Orange Judd Co., 523 Plymouth Court, Chi­

cago, Ill. An excellent book on manures and fertilizers.

Soils. <S. W. Fletcher. Doubleday, Page & Co., Garden City, N. Y. A popu­

lar but thorough and practical treatise.

Soil Management. King. Orange Judd Co., 523 Plymouth Court, Chicago, 

Ill. A very useful and dependable book.

Construction of Roads and Pavements. T. R. Agg. McGraw-Hill Book 

Co., 370 Seventh Ave., New York, N. Y. A standard work on the subject.

Concrete Construction for Rural Communities. Seaton. McGraw-Hill 

Book Co., 370 Seventh Ave., New York, N. Y.

Sewerage and Sewage Disposal. Metcalf and Eddy. McGraw-Hill Book 

Co., 370 Seventh Ave., New York, N. Y.

Practical Farm Drainage. Elliot. John Wiley & Sons, 432 Fourth Ave., 

New York, N. Y.

Ave.. New York, N. Y.

Court, Chicago, Ill.

York. N. Y.

Textbook of Land Drainage. J. A. Jeffrey. The Macmillan Co., 66 Fifth 

Landscape Gardening. F. A. Waugh. Orange Judd Co., 523 Plymouth 

Bird Life. Frank Chapman. D. Appleton & Co., 35 West 32d St., New 

Some Essays on Golf Course Architecture. Colt and Alison. Charles 

Scribner’s Sons, 597 Fifth Ave., New York, N. Y.

Farm Motors. A. A. Potter. McGraw-Hill Book Co., 370 Seventh Ave., 

New York, N. Y-

Fifth Ave., New York, N. Y.

Ave.. New York, N. Y.

Forage Plants and Their Culture. C. V. Piper. The Macmillan Co., 66 

Applied Entomology. H. T. Fernaid. McGraw-Hill Book Co., 370 Seventh 

Farm Machinery and Farm Motors. Davidson and Chase. Orange Judd

To correct a typographical error in the March Bulletin, cut this line out 

and paste it over the seventh line in the second paragraph on page 88: 

greens, the entrance or approach is called south, the back (which is usually

To correct an error in the March Bulletin, cut this numeral out and paste 

it over the numeral 6,3^8,000 in the last line on page 90:

108

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n, No. <

United States Department of Agriculture Publications
The folloiving may be obtained free upon application to the 
Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.

Farmers’ Bulletin 338—Macadam Roads.
Farmers’ Bulletin 444—Mosquitoes—Remedies and Preventives.
Farmers’ Bulletin 493—English Sparrow as a Pest.
Farmers’ Bulletin 583—Common Mole.
Farmers’ Bulletin 597—Road Drag and How Used.
Farmers’ Bulletin 600—Boring Taprooted Stumps for Blasting.
Farmers’ Bulletin 609—Bird Houses and How to Build Them.
Farmers’ Bulletin 621—How to Attract Birds in Northeastern United 

States.

States.

States.

gation.

Farmers’ Bulletin 660—Weeds: How to Control Them.
Farmers’ Bulletin 670—Field Mice.
Farmers’ Bulletin 701—Bagworm: An Injurious Shade Tree Insect
Farmers’ Bulletin 702—Rabbits in Relation to Trees and Crops.
Farmers’ Bulletin 708—Leopard Moth; an Enemy of Shade Trees.
Farmers’ Bulletin 739—Cutworms and Their Control.
Farmers’ Bulletin 747—Grasshoppers and Their Control.
Farmers’ Bulletin 750—Roses for the Home.
Farmers’ Bulletin 752—Army Worm or “Grass Worm” Control.
Farmers’ Bulletin 755—Common Birds of Southeastern United States.
Farmers’ Bulletin 760—How to Attract Birds in Northwestern United 

Farmers’ Bulletin 779—How to Select a Sound Horse.
Farmers’ Bulletin 788—The Windbreak as a Farm Asset.
Farmers’ Bulletin 799—Carbon Disulphid as an Insecticide.
Farmers’ Bulletin 805—Drainage of Irrigated Lands.
Farmers’ Bulletin 814—Bermuda Grass.
Farmers’ Bulletin 832—Trapping Moles.
Farmers’ Bulletin 844—How to Attract Birds in Middle Atlantic 

Farmers’ Bulletin 851—The House Fly.
Farmers’ Bulletin 864—Practical Information for Beginners in Irri­

Farmers’ Bulletin 912—How to Attract Birds in East Central States.
Farmers’ Bulletin 932—Rodent Pests of the Farm.
Farmers’ Bulletin 940—Common White Grubs.
Farmers’ Bulletin 945—Eradication of Bermuda Grass.
Farmers’ Bulletin 974—Clearing Land.
Farmers’ Bulletin 978—Barnyard Manure in Eastern Pennsylvania
Farmers’ Bulletin 994—Commercial Bordeaux Mixtures.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1002—Canada Thistle: Methods of Eradication.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1037—White Ants as Pests in the United States.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1087—Beautifying the Farmstead.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1097—The Stable Fly.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1101—The Argentine Ant.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1123—Growing and Planting Hardwood Seedlings
Farmers’ Bulletin 1130—Carpet Grass.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1131—Tile Trenching Machinery.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1140—Grasshopper Control in the Pacific States
Farmers’ Bulletin 1169—Insects Injurious to Deciduous Shade Trees 

and Their Control.

Farmers’ Bulletin 1170—Meadows for the Northern States.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1171—Growing Annual Flowering Plants.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1177—Care and Improvement of the Farm Woods.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1178—Tree Surgery.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1208—Trees for Town and City Streets.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1247—American Moles.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1209—Planting and Care of Street Trees.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1227—Sewage and Sewerage of Farm Homes.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1234—Gullies—How to Control and Reclaim Them
Farmers’ Bulletin 1239—Community Bird Refuges.
Farmers’ Bulletin 1254—Important Cultivated Grasses.

April 26, 1922] . UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

100

The following may be purchased from the Superintendent of 
Documents, Washington, D. C.

The Woodlot. Forest Service Bulletin 42. 15 cents.
Seeds of Bluegrasses, Germination, Growing, Handling, Adulteration, 

and Description. Plant Industry Bulletin 84. 5 cents.

Agricultural Species of Bent Grasses. Department of Agriculturh 

Bulletin 692. 5 cents.

Identification of Grasses by Their Vegetative Characters. Department 

of Agriculture Bulletin 461. 5 cents.

Quality and Value of Important Types of Peat Material. Department 

of Agriculture Bulletin 802. 10 cents.

Miscellaneous Pamphlets Free on Application

Bulletins on Concrete Structure. Portland Cement Association, 111 W. 

Washington St., Chicago, Ill.

Tile Drainage. Special Bulletin 56. Michigan Agricultural College, Eas': 

Concrete on the Farm. Atlas Portland Cement Co., 134 S. La Salle St., 

Lansing, Mich.

Chicago, Ill.

Brown-Patch and the Bordeaux Treatment
Lyman Carrier

Greenkeepers are now having their first experience with plant dis­
eases. If there is any truth in the statment that “misery likes com­
pany” there should be much consolation from the fact that fruit growers 
and gardeners have been forced to combat these pests for many years.

In nature there is a well-organized balance which keeps the face 
of the humid parts of the earth clothed in vegetation and peopled with 
animals big and little. When certain plants try to hog the earth there 
is always a remedy. Some bug or other enemy will step in and keep the 
obstreperous plant in its proper place. If this bug or other enemy gets 
puffed up with its own importance and develops porcine habits of “bug­
land fiber alles,” some bird or rodent will come along and deplete its 
population. Nature loves a mixture, plays no favorites, but rewards the 
fittest.

When man upsets the settled order of nature by attempting to grow 
one thing, and one thing only, he must give it protection from its natural 
enemies or there is going to be trouble. He may get along for a few 
vears seemingly without a care, but sooner or later he will have to fight 
to protect his crop. Peaches, cotton, beets, beans, and potatoes in the 
*ood old days were grown without the depredations of a single serious 
lest. Now peaches have the jaundice and scale; cotton has its boll-weevil 
ind pink boll-worm; beets, the crown rot; beans, anthracnose; and potatoes, 
mgs and blights. There is no use to bewail the fact and vainly wish for 
fie care-free days. The grower must find the remedy and apply it. 
[fiese remedial treatments should be considered as essential as plowing, 
iarrowring, or harvesting, and be charged accordingly to the cost of 
crowing the crop.

Brown-patch, a most troublesome plant disease, has come to match 
ts power to spread and destroy fine turf against the greenkeeper’s 
ibility to prevent its ravages. This is the price that must be paid for 
xtra fine turf. If golfers were satisfied with the mediocre results which 

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BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. No. <

they can get with the old-fashioned shotgun mixture of grasses of all 
shapes, shades, sizes, and habits, there would be little or no trouble, 
from brown-patch. But with a fine, velvety turf of bents or fescues there 
will always be the danger of infestation of this disease, and so it is up 
to the greenkeeper to provide the remedy.

The disease is now pretty generally recognized by most greenkeepers, 
but as some are still unfamiliar with it a repetition of the symptoms by 
which it is diagnosed may not be out of place.

Description of the Disease

Brown-patch is caused by a fungus, which is a term applied to a 
large group of plants. Fungi have no green in their make-up. This is a 
distinctive difference betw’een a fungus and an ordinary plant. There 
are many different kinds of fungi. Some are large as toadstools, mush­
rooms, puff-balls, etc. The ones which cause disease are of a much smaller 
growth, often too small to be seen unless magnified.

A fungus not having the green chlorophyll of higher plants must 
get its food from other organic matter. It can not manufacture food 
for itself out of raw materials, as grass and trees do. Some fungi live 
only on dead tissue, as the mushrooms, toadstools, etc., while others at­
tack living things. The brown-patch fungus thrives on a large number 
of living plants and takes an enormous toll from our farm crops. It is 
the organism which causes one of the serious blights of potatoes and 
tomatoes. Grass escaped the depredations of this fungus until green­
keepers began growing its favorite species in compact, closely clipped 
turf, where it could easily spread from leaf to leaf. Fungi draw the sap 
or juice from their host-plants by means of little thread-like filaments 
called mycelium. The mycelium of brown-patch can be seen by the 
unaided eye when the disease is active. It forms a cobwebby, tangled 
growth among the grass leaves like mildew. Fungi do not bloom and seed 
in the same manner as the higher plants. They do not need to, as they have 
a much more efficient means of spreading. Some form spores, which are 
little one-celled bodies that serve the same purpose as seeds in the higher 
plants. Anyone who has ever kicked a ripe puff-ball and noted the cloud of 
dust which rose in the air can appreciate the possibilities which that fungus 
has for spreading. Each particle of that dust is capable of producing 
another puff-ball if it falls in a favorable location for it to develop.

There are other fungi which are still more devilish in their ability 
to spread. They do not take the trouble even to form spores, but propa­
gate by the “vegetative method.” Those 'who have compared the propa­
gation of creeping bent vegetatively against seeding, will recognize the 
advantage which these fungi possess. Small resting bodies form on the 
thread-like filaments, or mycelium, which are capable of growing even 
after prolonged drying. This method of propagation corresponds to 
the growing of a crop of potatoes from planting the tube.-s. These 
little bodies by* which the fungus exists while it is not active/y growing 
are called sclerotia. The brown-patch fungus possesses this latter method 
of propagation, which makes it no nice friend of the greenkeeper.

When a brown-patch sclerotium or tuber sets up housekeeping in 
an exclusive neighborhood of fine, velvety turf plants, it sends out its 
mycelium, which penetrates the cells of the grass leaves and appropriates 

April 26. 1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

111

the food which the grass by hard work has made out of soil, air and 
water.

The first evidence which a greenkeeper has of the disease is a small 
smoky-looking spot when seen early in the morning. This spot has much 
the same appearance as would result from pouring boiling water on the 
grass. A close inspection will reveal the cobwebby mycelium. If the day 
is clear these spots will turn to a brown color by noon. The damage 
appears all to be done at night.

The spots may not be larger than a silver dollar the first day, but they 
spread rapidly if the weather is favorable for the fungus. Where there 
is but one point of infection the disease spreads in concentric circles and 
the patch keeps a circular form. As frequently happens, there are many 
points of infection which soon join together in an irregular area.

Brown-patch was common before the nature of the. disease was under­
stood. Sun-scald and drought injury have often been assigned as the 
cause of the trouble. We still find typical cases of brown-patch where the 
greenkeeper is making frantic efforts to overcome the trouble by treating 
the soil. Top-dressing, aeration, and watering or not watering are com­
monly resorted to. As turf hit by brown-patch frequent!}’ recovers in ths 
course of a month or six weeks without any treatment, it is difficult to 
convince some greenkeepers that the remedy which they applied is not a 
sure cure for the disease.

White clover, bluegrass, and certain weeds, so far as our obser­
vations go, are immune to brown-patch. When the disease attacks a green 
it often selects the bents and fescues and leaves untouched the white 
clover and bluegrass which may be growing in the turf. This is a helpful 
characteristic for identifying brown-patch in its final stages. Dry weather 
is not so discriminating in regard to the kinds of plants it injures.

Weather Favorable to Brown-Patch

There is much yet to be learned in regard to the climatic conditions 
which are favorable or unfavorable to the fungus. Each year brings out­
breaks of the disease, when, according to all the rules of the game, it ought 
to be dormant. A few years ago it was thought that the trouble need not 
be expected except on hot, muggy nights of July and August. Last year it 
proved to be more than ‘‘a midsummer night’s dream.” The first appear­
ance here about Washington was noted in May. A heavy outbreak occurred 
in early July, followed by an encore in September. The disease appears to 
be extending its depredations to the winter turf in the extreme South. There 
is no way of predicting an outbreak of brown-patch. It may at any 
time make its appearance whenever there is good growing weather for 
grass. So far the spring and fall months have been fairly free from the 
trouble.

While it is not possible to accomplish much in the way of curing 
grass that is sick from brown-patch, the trouble does not always kill the 
roots, so anything that is good to make grass grow will help the recovery 
of a green that has been hit with the fungus. Top-dressing with compost 
or fertilizers, and judicious watering, are advisable.

The only remedy which has proved successful so far is the well-known 
fungicide, Bordeaux mixture. This material has long been used for spray­

Treatment

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BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n, No. <

ing fruit trees and other crops which are subject to blights. The value 
lies in prevention rather than cure. After grass has become infected with 
the fungus nothing can be done for the areas that are hit. By the judicious 
use of Bordeaux, it may, however, be. kept from spreading to healthy grass. 
Those wTho have had brown-patch on their greens in the past had better : 
not wrnit for the disease to appear before beginning the treatment. The 
chances are much in favor of its reappearing in successive seasons, and' 
the sooner the Bordeaux is applied after hot weather comes the more like-' 
lihood there is that it will hold the fungus in check.

At the Arlington experimental farm last year the plats -which received 
Bordeaux were about the only ones that survived the combination of 
drought and brown-patch, which made the rest of the turf garden look as 
if it had been burned.

Dry vs. Liquid Bordeaux

Bordeaux mixture is now on the market in a po-wdered form, which 
is very convenient to use. This is the form which was used last year at 
the Arlington farm. Liquid Bordeaux, so far as a limited number of ex­
periments show, is just as effective in controlling the disease as is the" 
powder. At present -we have no evidence that there is any difference' 
bet-ween the dry and the liquid Bordeaux so far as preventing brown-patch 
is concerned. The choice of which form to use then should be decided 
on, first, which is the more convenient to use, taking all things into con-' 
sideration, and secondly, -which is the cheaper.

Preparing Bordeaux Mixture

Bordeaux mixture owres its beneficial effects to copper sulfate. But. 
copper sulfate when used alone in a strength sufficient to prevent fungus- 
disease will burn the grass. It is necessary to counteract the caustic effect 
of the copper sulfate with lime.

Bordeaux mixture is made in several different strengths, of 2 to 6 
pounds of copper sulfate combined with equal -weights of quicklime and 
enough water to make 50 gallons of the spray. For spraying grass, a mix­
ture containing 5 pounds of copper sulfate is perhaps best. The procedure, 
is as follows: Take 5 pounds of the copper sulfate in a muslin sack and 
suspend or stir it about in a barrel two-thirds full of water until dissolved. 
In another barrel slake 5 pounds of lump quicklime such as builders use 
for plastering. Be sure it is freshly-burned lime and not air-slaked. It is 
best to start gradually, pouring on a little hot water until the lime becomes 
active, then adding slowly more water until it is thoroughly slaked into 
a milky liquid. When ready to use, mix this milk of lime into the dissolved 
copper sulfate and add enough water to make up the 50 gallons—that is, 
an ordinary vinegar barrel full. The mixture should then be strained 
through muslin to take out any lumps or dirt which might clog the nozzles 
of the sprayer, after which the material is ready for use.

Stock solutions of dissolved copper sulfate and milk of lime may be 
made up in quantity, and they will keep indefinitely if not mixed to­
gether. Then all that is necessary when wanted for use is to measure out 
the proper proportion of each and mix. In mixing these two materials 
together, one or the other should be very dilute; for if strong solutions are 
mixed they will form a curdled mess that will be difficult to spray. It is 
for that reason that the directions given above call for two-thirds of a 

April 26. 1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

113

barrel of water for the copper sulfate. Much less water will dissolve 5 
pounds of copper sulfate, but it should be diluted to that quantity before 
adding the lime.

Thus prepared, however, liquid Bordeaux mixture must, to be effective, 
be applied immediately after it is made up, and no more should be made at 
one time than can be used the same day it is prepared. If it is desired to 
stabilize the mixture so that it will keep indefinitely, this can be done by 
the addition of one-eighth of an ounce of ordinary granulated sugar for 
every pound of copper sulfate used.

Equipment for Mixing

Where only a small quantity of Bordeaux mixture is needed two 
barrels, ordinary pails, funnel, etc., are all that are required in the way of 
equipment for preparing it. But where a considerable quantity is required, 
such as will be necessary for frequent sprayings of eighteen greens, it is 
advisable to build a platform high enough from the ground so the liquid 
can be allowed to run into the spray tank by gravity. In that case, the 
mixing barrel should have a faucet at the bottom w’hich can be opened and 
closed, and water should be piped to this platform. All that has to be 
elevated by hand labor is the lime and copper sulfate. Stock solutions of 
copper sulfate and lime are prepared in advance. When ready to use, 
measure out enough of the copper sulfate solution to be equivalent to 
5 pounds of the crystals. Put this in the mixing barrel and fill about two- 
thirds full with water. Measure out the milk of lime to give 5 pounds of 
the burned lime and stir this into the dilute copper sulfate. Fill up the 
barrel ■with water. Tie a muslin sack over the faucet of the mixing barrel, 
and let the mixture strain through into the spray tank.

Sprayers

Sprayers are on the market in great variety of styles and sizes from 
the little pop-gun hand-pumps to the 250-gallon or larger power outfits. If 
spraying the greens is to be one of the regular lines of work on a golf 
course, it would be advisable to equip at the start with a large power 
sprayer if the layout of the course will permit of its use, so that one 
loading of the machine will answer for spraying all of the greens. With 
such an outfit, the actual time required to spray a green should not be more 
than a minute or two. But, of course, it will take considerable time for a 
man and team to haul the machine around to all the greens.

Mixing and using liquid Bordeaux is nasty work at its best. The men 
do not like it. On windy days they get more or loss covered with the spray. 
Clogged nozzles, leaky hose, and other mishaps make the work disagree­
able. Remember, liquid Bordeaux mixture should be applied in a spray, 
so that every bit of the grass foliage is covered. An ordinary sprinkling 
pot will not answer.

Applying Dry Bordeaux

The writer prefers using the dry Bordeaux powder to the liquid. 
It is more nearly fool-proof and less disagreeable to handle. One man alone 
can apply it, while with the liquid it is necessary to have a team to haul 
the sprayer. There is now no special machine on the market designed 
for spreading Bordeaux powder on turf. There are several dust-guns 
which are made to throw out a cloud of dust to cover fruit trees, small

114

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. x0. 4

Fig. 1. A dust-gun used for applying Bordeaux powder to a putting-greenin

fruits, grapes, cotton, etc. Whether these will answer for turf work 
remains to be seen. In Figure 1 is shown one of these dusters, which 
works by hand. Dr. liarban has had a wheelbarrow grass-seeder I 
equipped to handle the powder. This apparatus appears very satis­
factory. It covers a wide strip of turf and applies the powder evenly 
and lightly (Figure 2). With either of these devices there is a great 
saving of Bordeaux powder over what is taken when it is scattered by 
hand, and the work is done in a small fraction of the time.

April 26. 1022 |

UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

115

Fig. 2. A wheelbarrow grass-seeder adapted to the spreading of Bordeaux powder

Amount of Bordeaux to Use

Our experiments have not progressed to a point where we can say 
what minimum amount of the powder and how few applications will 
prevent, the ravages of brown-patch. The first purpose has been to find a 
remedy; the second, to determine the most economical use. Experiments 
are planned which should give an answer to the second objective.

It is only by keeping at all times a covering of the Bordeaux on 
the leaves of the grass that we feel safe. This makes the treatment of 
turf grass much more difficult than is the case with farm crops. The 
frequent mowing and constant renewing of the growth of grass on put­
ting-greens make it appear imperative that the Bordeaux be applied 
every two or three days during the periods of most danger. The plan 
we followed was to apply the powder after every rain or watering of 
the grass, and in no ease did we wait longer than a week between appli­
cations, until late in the season. We hope that such frequent applica­
tions may not prove to be necessary, but it is well to be on the safe 
side. No more Bordeaux need be used than is necessary to give a light 
dust covering on the grass. When applying it by hand, as we did last 
jj’ear, it took about one pound of the powder to 1.000 square feet of 
surface. When applied with a dust-gun or the wheelbarrow seeder, one 
pound should cover a much larger area, say, an ordinary sized green of 
5,000 square feet. It should be kept clearly in mind that Bordeaux does 
nothing but prevent the disease from attacking healthy plants; it is 
easily washed off the leaves, and should for that reason be applied after 

116

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n, No. £

and not immediately before watering. A heavy rain may render an', 
application of Bordeaux of no value and another treatment should be* 
applied soon after the rain stops.

Effect on the Grass

The only effect on the grass noticed during the growing season last 
summer from the use of the Bordeaux was beneficial. The grass receiving’ 
the treatment was healthy, vigorous, and had good color. During the 
dormant stage of winter, however, there was a marked difference in the; 
appearance of these plats when compared with those which were un­
treated. The leaves of the grass receiving Bordeaux turned to a reddish 
bronze color, and the plants were slower in starting growth this spring.^ 
At the time of this writing they have practically all recovered, and the 
new growth gives no indication of any injury. This peculiar color of the 
grass makes it advisable to study the cumulative effect from frequent, 
applications of Bordeaux, as too much copper sulfate may prove detri-’ 
mental when carried on over a period of years. There are no data bn 
this point, as there are no experiments on record where so many treat-; 
ments with Bordeaux have ever been applied before as we used last 
year on this grass.

Effect on Earthworms

An interesting side-benefit resulted last year at the Arlington farm 
from the use of Bordeaux powder for brown-patch. We discovered in 
the fall that there were no earthworms in the plats where Bordeaux 
had been applied during the summer. Repeated tests with mercuric, 
chloride both last fall and this spring failed to bring out a single worm 
from the Bordeaux plats, while plenty of them could be found on the ad­
joining untreated turf. Of course, it is unsafe to draw conclusions from 
just one season’s work, but the results were so definite that there seemed 
to be no mistaking the fact that Bordeaux mixture was effective in eradi­
cating earthworms as well as controlling the brown-patch. If this holds 
true in the future there will be the added inducement for using Bordeaux.

Soil Beds for Use on Golf Courses and How They Can Be 
Made at a Very Small Cost
William Connellan, Friendship, Washington, D. C.

At the Detroit Golf Club in 1920 some of the fairways were in bad 
shape with cuppy-lies in places. The soil is of a very sandy nature and 
no amount of rolling seemed to do any good. The grass was fescue 
and grew in tufts.

Top-dressings with compost of manure made in a pile by the usual 
method, we figured, would be very expensive and unnecessary. So we 
set about to make soil beds on various parts of the course in the rough 
and near the fairways which were to be top-dressed, thus saving long 
Hauls. We selected about a quarter acre and covered it to a depth of one 
inch with clay (34 cubic yards), and about the same quantity of manure. 
After the clay had dried out we rolled the beds in order to break up the 
lumps, and then disked them with a disk harrow, The next operation 

jprii 26.19221 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

117

was to plow, then thoroughly disk and work until the plots were well 
mixed to a depth of nine inches.

There were five of these soil beds located at various points about 
the course, which gave us enough fine rich soil to cover four and one- 
half acres of fairway to a depth of one-half inch.

I believe every golf course should have a compost heap of well-rotted 
manure for use in construction work, such as the building of greens, 
tees, and fairways; but for poor or worn-out fairways the soil-bed method 
is by far the best and cheapest way to make top-dressing. Making soil beds 
in the manner described does away with the expensive method of com­
posting manure in a heap. The idea is to have the top-dressing handy 
to the place where you are going to use it, and save long hauling; you 
also save a lot of hand labor in mixing the materials.

At the Grosse He Golf Club, where we started construction in the 
fall of 1919, the first thing we did was to start three large soil beds of 
about one acre each. The soil there is a heavy clay. On these beds we 
used three inches of coarse sand, two inches of humus, and one inch of 
manure, and mixed the beds to a depth of ten inches. We allowed weed 
seeds to germinate and then ran the disk harrow over the beds to destroy 
the weeds just before they went to seed. We put two inches of the 
soil bed mixture as a germinating layer on all the tees and greens we 
built before seeding them.

Making Soil Beds

If the soil on your course is of a clay or heavy texture, try to locate 
a sand deposit on the grounds. On the other hand, if your soil is of 
a very sandy nature, try to locate a supply of clay. In either case find 
out if there are any peat or muck deposits on your property. These 
soil resources are to be found in many localities,, but in some cases 
where they are not found the materials will have to be purchased from 
the outside.

Soil Beds for Sandy Courses.—Select a piece of ground 25 yards wide 
by 50 yards long, in the rough and out of the line of play. This will give 
about one-quarter of an acre. Haul and spread on this 35 cubic yards of 
clay, which will cover the bed to a depth of about one inch. Allow it 
to dry out for a few days, then roll and harrow until the clay is well 
pulverized. The next step is to haul and spread 35 cubic yards of stable 
manure, plow not over 6 inches deep, and then harrow thoroughly with 
a disk until soil, clay, and manure are well mixed. Plow again, this time 
going deeper, say about 8 inches deep, and disk-harrow as before. If 
muck or peat can be had on the grounds, 25 cubic yards of muck may 
be used, and the amount of manure can then be cut down from 35 cubic 
yards to about 20 cubic yards.

Soil Beds for Heavy Clay Soils.—Proceed in the same manner as for 
sandy soils, but instead of using clay for first dressing apply about 50 
cubic yards of sand, more or less, as the case may require, then disk 
thoroughly after this is done. Then apply 35 cubic yards of stable ma­
nure, plow under shallow, and replow and work same as described above.
Allow weed seeds to germinate, but before the weeds come to seed 
either plow them under or disk-harrow until they are cut into the soil. 
In other words, summer-fallow the soil beds until they are needed for use.

118 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. No. *

Material for soil beds can be used at once for top-dressing, but it 
is much better to leave it stand for a couple of months, after which, 
time it may be sown down to a green-manure crop, such as cowpeas, or 
spring or winter rye. When these green-manure crops come to maturity 
they may be plowed under and followed by other crops until the soil is 
wanted for top-dressing. This increases, or, at least, conserves the humus 
content. 
:.j
Four soil beds of the dimensions given, located at convenient places' 
on the course, will provide enough top-dressing material to cover ap­
proximately eight acres of fairway one-half inch thick. Where time 
permits, good soil beds can be worked up by applying 10 tons of manure 
to the acre and sowing a couple of crops, such as cowpeas or soy beans,, 
for green manure, to plow under. In addition to this, old sod, leaves, 
grass, clippings, or muck (if there is any to be had near at hand), may 
be added. If the soil is a heavy clay, the ashes from the clubhouse could 
be used on soil beds with good results. Also good soil beds can be made 
by using the rubbish cut from the rough each year.

Cost of Making Soil Beds at the Norwood Golf Club, 
Long Branch, N. J.

The approaches to all the greens were top-dressed for an average 
distance of 40 yards in front of each green last November. About four 
acres of approaches in all were dressed about one-half inch thick with' 
soil bed material. The soil at Long Branch is very sandy. The soil bed, 
was made in the same manner as described above, and was 20 by 50
yards in size.

Cost to Make
35 cubic yards manure, at $3.00 per yard on bed.................    $105.00
One team and man 6 hours working bed, at $7.00 a day............................ 4.75

Total cost of soil bed (about 275 cubic yards of material)..........  $109.75

Cost to Top-Dress Fairways

3 teams hauling material to approaches, 3 days, at $7.00 a day  $63.00
3 men loading wagons, 3 days, at $3.50 a day...............— ...... 31.50
2 men spreading material, 3 days, at $3.50 a day..................... 21.00
1 team with chain harrow, 2 days, at $7.00 a day....... -................ 14.00
-------  

129.50

Total cost .................................... ............... ......... .............. .......„...... $239.25

This made the top-dressing cost about $13.30 for each approach.

Fresh flags and newly painted poles.—These dress up a course and 
help to divert the attention of the captious critics. Change flags and 
poles once a month. Bamboo flag poles painted with alternate stripes of 
black and white locate and show off the hole better if the black stripe 
is at the bottom. Freshly painted flag poles and fresh flags set off a 
golf course like a clean shave sets off a green-keeper.

Heroic bunkers.—When these are placed about a mashie-shot hole 
they give an intensive mental hazard—the only real feature possible to 
such a short hole.

April 26. 19221 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

119

The Fallacy of Sowing Fine Turf Grasses in Spring
C. V. Piper and R. A. Oakley

Waste in any form in golf course making and maintenance should 
be avoided wherever it is possible to do so. One of the greatest sources of 
waste is in the sowing of seed. The rate of seeding is commonly too heavy. 
Much poor seed is sown which, if simple germination tests were made be­
forehand, would not have been used. Seed of grasses poorly or not at all 
adapted to the locality or to the purpose intended too frequently is 
selected. But these are not the chief causes. The greatest waste conies 
from reseeding old greens and fairways and sowing new ones at the wrong 
time of the year. Under the best of conditions the reseeding of old turf 
produces results of very doubtful value, and when the reseeding is done 
in the spring in most of the northern part of the golf belt, the effort and 
seed are almost sure to be wasted. It is desired here to call attention to the 
mistaken practice of sowing seed of the fine northern turf grasses in the 
spring of the year and to point out some of the reasons why the practice 
is unsound.

When the question is asked, “Why are lawns and greens sown in the 
spring?” the answer is invariably, “Because it is the right time to sow 
seed.” This reply smacks of reasoning from a faulty premise. True 
enough, spring is the proper time to sow most garden seeds, and likewise 
it is the proper time to sow seed of most field crops. No sensible man would 
think of planting corn, for example, except in the spring after the warm 
weather arrives, but on the other hand no sensible man would think of 
sowing winter wheat at any other time than in the fall. The fallacy in the 
argument of the advocates of spring seeding lies in regarding the northern 
turf grasses as similar in their temperature and length-of-day relations to 
corn, spring wheat, and oats. As a matter of fact they are more nearly 
comparable in these relations to winter wheat and timothy. These turf 
grasses stool and root best under conditions such as exist during the fall 
and very early spring. This is doubtless due to the fact that lower tem­
perature obtains then than during the late spring and summer, and the 
days are relatively shorter. Which factor of the environment—the cool 
weather or the short day—is the more responsible for this habit of growth 
of the turf grasses, is not known. Until recently it was supposed that 
temperature was the only important factor involved, but it has been proved 
beyond doubt that the relatively short days of fall exert a decided influence.
The seedlings that result when seeds of bents, fescues, redtop, or 
Kentucky bluegrass are sown in September soon produce new shoots from 
their lower nodes or joints. This is called “stooling. ” At th? base of 
each plant there are several nodes or joints grouped closely together. While 
the weather is cool and the days are short there is no tendency for the 
stems upon which the nodes occur to elongate, as is done in summer when 
the culm is formed and the plant goes to seed, but new shoots continue to 
grow, thus making a close turf. The exact manner in which the turf is 
produced differs somewhat with the species. In addition to abundant 
stooling, a substantial development of roots takes place while the weather 
of fall is still favorable for growth.

When the seed of the northern turf grasses is sown in the spring, 
especially south of the latitude of New York, the rapid approach of warm 

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BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE ivoi. n, n0. v

weather and the advent of the longer days provide conditions that are 
conducive to the elongation of the stems. This elongation, under normal 
conditions of growth, ultimately tends to result in the formation of culm 
and seed-head. Mowing, of course, prevents seed production; but the 
plants incline to spindle rather than to stool. Therefore, seedling plants 
from seed sown in the spring fail to form the close, vigorous turf that is 
produced from fall sowing, and they are less able to hold their own against 
crab-grass and other summer weeds and the many vicissitudes incident tc 
the hot summer months. Even grass seedlings that get a poor start in the 
fall and appear to have made little or no growth, when spring arrives, havt 
a great advantage over spring seedlings, though the latter come from early 
spring sowing.

The recommendation has been made by some that the seeding of cer 
tain of our northern turf grasses (particular kinds not specified), should be 
delayed until that time of spring when the weather and the soil have 
warmed up well. A study of the behavior of these grasses will soon con­
vince the intelligent observer of the fallacy of this recommendation. If 
spring seeding must be done, then in the name of common sense do it as 
early as possible and not wait for corn-planting days to arrive. Green com­
mittees are urged to adjust their making and maintenance programs so 
that the sowing of seed, -whether it is for the making of new greens or 
fairways or the reseeding of old ones, will be done some time during or 
near the early part of September. If greens or fairways must be seeded 
in the spring, do it early, and make the soil conditions as nearly ideal a? 
possible. Having done these things, pray for a good season. The young 
grass plants will need all the help they can get.

A full-sized chapter might be written on the other phases of preven­
tion of waste in seeding and reseeding greens and fair-ways. Certainly in. 
a great majority of cases the rate of sowing is excessive. Much seed is posi­
tively’ wasted in this way. But the w’aste that comes from the willy-nilly 
practice of sowing seed on old turf is the least defensible of all. There 
may be conditions under which the reseeding of greens is a desirable thing 
to do, but it should be done with wisdom and understanding, which means, 
in ihe fall with a good compost dressing. Some day a wise green com­
mittee chairman will actually “count the teeth of the horse”; that is, he 
will properly check up the effects of reseeding and will learn by this in­
controvertible method how much of the benefit, if he is fortunate enough to 
secure benefit, is due to the seed and how much to the compost and treat­
ment that accompany7 reseeding. The golf clubs of America will erect a 
monument to his memory.

Courtesy of the game.—Every- green committee should pound away’ 
at the members on the observance of the courtesies of the game. Mem­
bers are naturally’ selfish or careless. Constant reminders by’ notices 
posted on bulletin boards or put in lockers ox- on caddy* bags may make 
a convert now and then. A sharp reprimand to persistent offenders is 
good for the whole membership.

Whiskers on the bunkers.—Let the whiskers grow on the backs of 
bunkers. A bunker isn’t a bunker until it grows whiskers. Some golf 
architects suggest clumps of rough grass in large bunkers.

April 26. 1922J UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

121

Watering the Fairways
Frank L. Woodward, Denver, Colo.

The most valuable property-right in all of the Rocky Mountain re- • 
gion has always been water. Popular opinion would give the palm to 
mining or oil for the reason that to these is attached the halo of specu­
lative or get-rich-quick romance, but in reality the backbone of the pros­
perity of all this vast region is its farm crop and livestock in­
dustries, and the fundamental requisite for the successful carrying on of 
either of these is sufficient water. It is in connection with the appropria­
tion, distribution, and use of water that the tragic, romantic, and sub­
stantial history of this part of the country has been written. If it were 
not for the beneficial use of water in all of the many and varied ways 
that have been devised for its application, the entire western part of the 
continent would indeed be the desert waste it was formerly declared to be.
What is true in general as to the importance of water to the West 
applies equally when the subject of golf is involved. If a turfed course 
is contemplated, the first question to be asked is, How much water is 
available? And it is far more important that this question be answered 
satisfactorily than the customary questions regarding soil, adaptability, con­
formation, and the like.

When the location of the present course of the Denver Country Club 
came to be determined, much controversy arose for the reason that most 
of the tract selected was apparently a sandy waste. It had never been 
cultivated, and many doubted whether grass could ever be made to grow 
upon it, but careful investigation had proved that the soil, though very 
light ahd sandy, contained ample nutritive ingredients to produce a good 
turf if sufficient water was applied. The needed water was developed by 
sinking cribs some ten or twelve feet below the surface in the bed of 
Cherry Creek about a mile above the club grounds. These cribs collect 
part of the underground flow of this stream, which is then conducted by 
a 24-inch pipe line on the club’s property at its highest point. This 
flow continues uninterruptedly the year round. Cherry Creek, for nine 
months of the year, may apparently be dry as a bone, but the under­
ground flow goes merrily on, varying somewhat with the dryness of the 
season but sufficient at all times to provide water enough to maintain 
good fairways. Some of the members of the club contend that this has 
given Denver the best fairways of any golf club in the country. This 
view may be a trifle over-enthusiastic, but it is true that throughout the 
year they are green and carpet-like and have all the good points of an ideal 
playing surface. When it is realized that every growing thing upon the 
course—shrubs, trees, flowers, and every blade of grass on teeing grounds, 
putting-greens, fairways, and even rough—must be regularly and fre­
quently watered, the vital importance of this necessary element in our 
equipment will be appreciated.

Distributing mains are laid so as to carry this water to every part of 
the course. These mains are 8-inch tile pipes with cemented joints. At 
various points, say, every 500 feet, outlets are arranged with shut-off valves. 
The mains run down between courses and the outlets are in the rough; con ■ 
sequently no obstacles are put in the way of play. The flow is entirely by 
gravity and the “head” is low, at no point being greater than three and 

122

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. No. 4

one-half feet; consequently the pressure is very slight and the force of the 
water, as it flows over the surface, is not great enough to “wash” the soil 
or produce Cuppy lies. The great advantage of this plan is that it enables 
us to get the water to the roots of the grass; whereas, with sprinkling, much 
of the water blows away or evaporates in this arid climate. The soil is so 
absorbent that irrigating can proceed during play with very little incon­
venience, for in a few minutes all surface water has disappeared and the 
sandy nature of the soil tends to minimize muddy conditions.

The method by which this water is applied at the Denver Country 
Club often strikes the eastern visitor as unique and remarkable, but it is 
merely the old irrigation method, long used in this part of the country, 
slightly’’ modified to suit the peculiar circumstances.

The method is to flood the entire course instead of sprinkling it. As it 
is expressed here, we “irrigate” the entire fairway’ system and all of th? 
rough. This is done through 8-inch hose made of heavy’ duck canvas in 
twenty-foot lengths. There are no couplings. The end of each length of 
hose is overlapped into the end of the next length. This overlap amounts 
to from ten to fourteen inches. The end nearest the outlet valve is stuck 
into the end of the next length, and this process is continued until a “line” 
of hose has been “laid” in whatever direction is desired and to the required 
distance, usually one or two hundred y’ards. The water is then turned on. 
The flow from the extreme end will gently’ spread a sheet of water, one-half 
or three-quarters of an inch thick, over several hundred square feet of sur­
face. The irrigator will then break the ‘ ‘ line ’ ’ at the next joint by’ merely 
pulling it apart. The water will then flow from this point over the ground 
down to the place where the irrigating began, and gradually, by breaking 
each joint in turn, the whole area from the end of the “line” back to the 
outlet will receive a thorough soaking.

In ordinary weather it requires about four days to go over the entire 
course in this way, using two men working at different points on the 
grounds. In the hottest part of the summer this force is doubled, two men 
working day-times and two at night; and, of course, the hotter the weather, 
the more water is applied.

The system works easily’ and economically. The first cost of the in­
stallation of cribs, pipe line, and distributing system represents the capital 
investment. The current cost is represented by labor and replacement of 
hose. About two thousand feet of this hose is used annually. Its life is 
rarely’ more than one season.

The quantity of water required to irrigate fairways by’ this method 
would vary’ with conditions of soil and climate. One of the eastern courses 
that waters its fairway’s as well as its putting-greens, is very’ proud of a 
pumping plant that delivers 600 gallons per minute. To the layman that 
sounds like a lot of water, but great quantities are required; and in the 
language of irrigation the standard of measurement is not gallons, but 
feet and inches. The quantity of water used for the fairways at the Den­
ver Country’ Club is 3y2 second feet; or in terms of gallons, 1,600 per 
minute.

There is always one danger connected with writing for general distribu­
tion about methods employ’ed at any golf club, and that is that the same 
methods may be attempted elsewhere, under conditions that are in nowise 
similar, with the result that failure follows and waste occurs. The won­
derfully favorable results that have attended the wholesale watering plans 

April 26, 1922! UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

123

in vogue at the Denver Country Club have, however, led to the query, Why 
would not other clubs profit equally if similar plans should be followed, 
modified, of course, where necessary to conform to conditions prevailing 
elsewhere ?

Summer visitors in Denver exclaim in wondering envy about the 
constant greenness, springiness, and splendid condition of our fairways, 
even in the hottest, most scorching weather. They say, “at home every­
thing is brown, dry, and baked to a crisp. Why can’t we get fairways like 
this?” Well, they could with a little extra enterprise on the part of their 
greenkeeping organization. The importance of watering fairways has not 
been sufficiently realized. It is, however, coming more and more to be 
appreciated. If golf courses are to be kept up in really first-class condition, 
it is obvious that they should not be allowed to dry up and become baked 
and blistered during a considerable portion of every playing season. The 
time to plan for the watering of fairways is, of course, when the course is 
being originally laid out, as the equipment can then be installed with a 
minimum of expense, but most players will agree that the added pleasure 
of playing over green, resilient fairways at all times warrants a considerable 
outlay in the installation of some system for the watering when needed of 
all the “pretty” on the course.

It must not be forgotten also that the constant irrigation of turf is in 
itself a method of fertilization, for the reason that water, thus gently flow­
ing over turf, deposits fine particles of silt, organic matter, and other forms 
of nutrition that aid materially in maintaining a healthy sod.

When the rainfall is so slight or the climate so dry as to necessitate 
irrigation of fairways, studies could profitably be made of systems em­
ployed both in Colorado and California. In fact, the latter State has de­
veloped the science and technique of irrigation more elaborately than any 
other section of the country. In general, the following are the necessary 
things that must be remembered and provided for:

(1) Secure an ample supply of water so as to enable a large quantity 

to be applied quickly.

(2) Arrange a distribution system for this water to reach every point 
and with frequent outlets so that the surface connections required will be as 
short as possible.

(3) Do not figure on high pressure lines for irrigation. Water in 
quantity can not safely be applied to turf under much of a “head.” The 
flow secured must be very gentle; otherwise washing of the soil, uneven 
surface, and cuppy lies will result.

(4) Irrigation can never be employed on newly-seeded ground. It 
is not safe to begin to use this method until a good thick stand of turf has 
become ■well rooted.

What is a proper green fee, and why?—It is obvious that it costs 
a club money in the way of locker service to take care of guests, and 
a green fee should be charged that will cover costs and leave something 
to be credited to the green committee.

Keep the men busy.—It is considered good practice not to “dock” 
men for parts of days lost on account of rain. This keeps them on the 
place ready to go to work if it clears up. There should be plenty to 
do under shelter—nice rainy-day jobs.

124

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. 11, No. t

Distribution of Maintenance Costs
Adolph F. Seubert, Inverness Club, Toledo, Ohio
With comments by Messrs. Alan D. Wilson, Hugh 1. Wilson, 
and IV. C. Ferguson.

I have had no experience in the practical work of greenkeeping. 
My business life has been devoted to the employment and handling of labor 
:n factory management. I believe I was put on the Green Committee at 
Inverness in the hope that I might contribute something out of my ex­
perience to the problem of regulating and controlling expense and ascer­
taining the proper cost of doing the work. This article, therefore, is 
submitted more to “start something” than to state definitely what should 
or should not be done, and my feelings will not be hurt in the least if 
some practical greenkeeper or someone else takes issue with my conclusions.
Heretofore, as I understand it, labor costs on golf courses have been 
kept in a very crude way under general heads, such as labor, mainte­
nance, new work, and the like, which mean very little. No attempt has 
been made to break up maintenance costs in any way so as to get the 
facts as to the costs of the different kinds of work. It is obvious that 
there can be no comparison of the maintenance costs on different courses 
until the figures are kept on a common basis.

The first step to be taken in the ascertainment of any costs is to 
divide the work into natural divisions, just as factory costs are broken 
up into the operations. This division must be based upon the method of 
doing the work and must be natural and not too complicated, so that 
accurate records can be kept without much trouble.

In order to keep our costs during the coming year, we propose to use 
a separate time-card or time-sheet for each employee, so as to show the 
kind of work done each day, the number of hours, the rate of pay, and 
the totals in dollars. It should be easy enough at the end of each week 
to combine the totals from these individual time-cards and put them on a 
summary or resume sheet to show the totals for each week for each of the 
different kinds of work. On page 125 is shown the time-distribution sheet 
we expect to use, and on page 126 the resume or weekly sheet. Considering 
the way in which our work is to be done, it is believed that our classifica­
tion is reasonably natural and not too elaborate, and it may be well to 
explain the various items.

Routine work on putting-greens.—This includes all the -work ordi­
narily done as routine work on the greens. We expect to employ six men 
to cut, roll, weed, and care for the greens, and to trim and take care of 
the traps around and about the greens. An extra man -will cut and trim 
approaches and edges of the greens with a power mower. All this will 
be the daily routine, and all this labor will be put under this heading.
Mowing fairways, mowing rough, and mowing tees.—These need no ex­
planation. We shall have one man running tractor mowing machines 
practically all the time during the cutting season. A man will be used 
where necessary in the rough, and one man will take care of the tees.
Care of bunkers.—This will include the work on the bunkers and 

traps other than those around and about the putting-greens.

Fertilizing, seeding and top-dressing greens.—We expect to top-dress 
our greens very frequently. Last year this was done about once a month 
and it is planned to do it oftener this year. This item includes the

April 26,1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

125

CHECK NO-------- ------------- ----------

WEEK ENDING

192....

NAME.—............................................................. ........................... ............. ........

Total 
Amt.
|
|

|
|

1

|
|
1

Inverness Club—Time Distribution Record

MAINTENANCE

.

n
u
S

.

n
o
M

.
s
e
u
T

.
d
e

W

.
r
u
h
T

£

'S

Total
Hours

1 Routine Work on Putting Greens
2 Mowing Fairways

3 Mowing Rough

4 Mowing Tees

5 Care of Bunkers

6

7

Fertilizing Seeding and Top Dressing Greens

Fertilizing Seeding and Top Dressing Fairway | 

! 

j

1
I
|

1
1
j

______

______

8

16

17

! 
| 
| 

Labor on Compost

10 Watering Labor

Special Weeding Greens

9 Worm Eradication Greens

15 Repairs to and Upkeep of Equipment 

11
12 Barn Work 

| |
1
1
1
i 1 1
1
I 1 I 1 I
1 1 1
1
|
1 I | 
1
| 
| 
13 Repairs to Water Lines 
14 Attention to Tee Boxes, Moving Holes, etc. | 
|
| 
| 
| 
| 
1
| j | 
1 
1 
Illi!!!
1 1 1 1 । 1 1
i : : 1 1 1 1
|
1 1 I 1 1 1 1
1 I
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
| I 1 I 1 
1
1 
1 
| 
| 
| 
| 
|
; 
I । I I I 1 
1
1 
| i |
| 
| 
। j 1 
1 I |
1 1 1 1 i i . 1 1
1 ! I 1 1 1 1 1
|

23 Trucking for Club 
24 Outside Buildings 

! j 1 
1 
| 

NON MAINTENANCE 

21 House Grounds 

22 Cutting Wood 

Totals. ................ j 

20 New Work 

i | 

25

26

18

19

| 

1 

| 

1 

1 

| 

| 

1

TOTAL HOURS........................... RATE  PER HOUR.............................. AMOUNT DUE.................................

APPROVED-................ -......................  -........................... -SUPT.

RECEIVED PAYMENT.............................. ........ ........................................ -............................. -.................................

126 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. No. 4

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M
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F

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
April 26. 1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

127

preparation, hauling, and spreading of the top-dressing, and it will also 
include special fertilization, such as an occasional application of sulfate 
of ammonia, and will also include the seeding. There seems to be no 
occasion to separate the costs of fertilizing, top-dressing, and seeding the 
greens. Seeding, for instance, is done only twice a year and the labor cost 
is trivial.

Fertilizing, seeding and top-dressing fairways.—This will cover about 
the same class of work on the fairways as is described above in respect to the 
putting-greens.

Special weeding on greens.—This means just what it says; that is 

to say, the weeding not done by the regular greensmen.

Labor on compost is intended to cover all the work in hauling materials 
and taking care of the compost piles, but will not include the screening of 
compost or the mixing of compost with other materials prior to application.
Attention to tee boxes, moving holes, etc.—This will cover the items 
mentioned, such as changing the tee markers, changing the position of 
tee boxes, moving locations of holes, changing flags, picking up grass cut­
tings, and the like.

The other items in our schedule seem to require no explanation.
Only experience will tell whether this classification is right or wrong. 
We have left spaces for other kinds of work as the items of classification 
will develop. Only experience will evolve a classification that can be 
used on all golf courses, and there seems to be no doubt of the desirability 
of the strongest kind of cooperation among golf clubs, looking to stand­
ardization of accounts, standarization of methods, and the acceptance of 
a common classification, so that there can be a comparison of costs.

It is more than likely that experience will show that golf courses will 
have to be divided into groups in order to get to a fair comparison of 
costs. It would hardly seem reasonable to keep the costs of a small nine- 
hole golf course on the same basis and with the same detail as the costs on 
a fine, beautifully maintained, eighteen-hole course. There are a great 
many courses in small towns that are maintained at a cost of from $1,500 
to $2,500 a year. It would not be reasonable to keep the costs on such 
a course on the same basis as on a course that is maintained at a cost of 
from $20,000 to $25,000 a year; so I anticipate that experience will show 
certain natural groupings; but the principle will be the same and the 
necessity for standardization of accounts will be just the same.

In making up our time-sheet we started -with a tentative sheet pro­
posed by Mr. A. J. Hood, of the Detroit District Green Committee, and 
we have only added detail and have changed the arrangement. The classi­
fication proposed by the Detroit Green Committee included items such 
as cutting greens, cutting tees, cutting fairways, cutting rough, bunkers, 
ditches, roads, and miscellaneous, and it does not strike us that this method 
is either natural or in sufficient detail.

We have also examined a time-card used on the Maketewah Country 
Club, Cincinnati, -which carries the following items: "Watering greens and 
tees, cutting greens and tees, -weeding greens, rolling and cleaning greens, 
preparing top-dressing, seeding greens and top-dressing, cutting greens, 
seeding fairways, care of traps, cutting slopes and long grass, repairing 
bridges and fences, repairs to equipment and odd jobs. Our objection 
to this classification is that it does not conform to our method of doing 
the work. It seems to us that the cost of -work on the greens should not 

128 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. No. 4

be mixed up with the costs on the tees, unless of course the work is done 
by the same men and is not naturally capable of division. Seeding greens, 
unless it is special weeding, should come under care of greens, and so 
should the rolling and cleaning. Preparing top-dressing is as much a 
part of the cost of application as the spreading. Seeding fairways occurs 
but once or twice a year and does not amount to enough to bother with, 
and should be included in the general treatment of fairways.

A great many systems of factory accounting have broken down be­
cause the division of costs was too fine for practical use, and we have 
this objection to a cost-sheet which appears to have been used in Chicago, 
and which classified the items as follows:
Mowing fairways 
Seeding fairways 
Disking and top-dressing fairways Mowing putting-greens
Rolling fairways 
Mowing rough grass 
Mowing mounds 
Mowing and top-dressing tees 
Sanding bunkers 
Raking bunkers 
Labor sprinkling 

Worm eradication putting-greens
Fertilizing putting-greens
Seeding putting-greens
Weeding putting-greens
Labor on drain-tile
Repairs to mowers
Repairs to sprinkler system and

Power-house labor
Bam expense

sprinklers

It might be possible to keep the costs on the golf course in great detail 
if a competent cost-clerk -were employed, but the object to be obtained is 
a simple, easy, workable form that can be handled as a matter of routine, 
day by day, by the ordinary greenkeeper.

The salary of the greenkeeper is, of course, a part of maintenance 
costs, but the purpose of the time-distribution record now under discussion 
is to classify and record only direct labor. The manner of handling a 
greenkeeper’s salary must depend upon the nature of his work. If he 
does nothing but give the work general supervision, then his salary is 
part of the overhead and should not be entered on the daily cards. If he 
devotes a part of his time to direct labor, then so much of his time should 
be entered on the daily cards and the balance which is devoted to general 
supervision should be treated as overhead.

To determine true maintenance costs the direct labor costs should be 
loaded with the overhead. The. loading of overhead charges is strictly a 
matter of accounting and should be taken care of by the books rather 
than the greenkeeper; and there would seem to be no difficulty in keep­
ing proper records if a daily record is made of the greenkeeper’s direct 
labor in such form that the bookkeeper can understand how much of the 
greenkeeper’s salary is to be treated as overhead.

At the end of the year or any period the total amount expended for di­
rect labor for the various items'of work will be known, the amount of direct 
labor of the greenkeeper will be known, and the cost of supervision will be 
known. It will then be a simple matter for the bookkeeper to spread the 
supervision expense proportionately over the direct labor items. Of course, 
the greenkeeper’s direct labor items should not be loaded a second time. 
The supervision expense should only be spread over the costs of the labor 
of others than the greenkeeper.

April 26, 1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

129

This may seem a little complicated at first glance, but any bookkeeper 

ought to understand it.

Without a doubt someone somewhere in the United States has worked 
out a complete, satisfactory, and entirely practical distribution of main­
tenance costs, and whoever has anything that he considers worth while 
should contribute it to the Green Section for publication so that by the 
exchange of views and experience a standard system can be worked up in 
such shape that it can be used on a great many courses.

There are many courses that have special problems and special work 

and any standard system will have to make provision therefor.

It goes without saying that there should be a complete separation 
of the work on the golf course from the work around the house and general 
grounds, dnd there should be a separation of maintenance and non-mainte- 
nance work.

It ought to be made possible by standardization to lay the accounts of 
two or a dozen courses side by side and see where the money went, just 
exactly as a group of factories with which I happen to be connected are 
obliged to compete with each other, and the figures are made comparable 
by operation on a common system. It is hoped that by this time next 
year the Green Committee of the United States Golf Association will be 
able to send out a full set of forms, 'with complete instructions for use, 
about the same as the Interstate Commerce Commission prescribes for the 
accounting of railroads. This can hardly be done, however, until the 
proper forms are evolved. The subject is an important one, and it is 
hoped that everyone who has any suggestions to offer will not fail to let 
the Green Section members benefit by them.

Comments by Messrs. Alan D. Wilson and Hugh I. Wilson, Philadelphia, Pa.
We have carefully gone over the cards accompanying Mr. Seubert’s article 
on Distribution of Maintenance Costs and we feel that the author is on the 
right track when he tries to reduce the number of items and so simplify the 
card. But it seems to us that he should go still further in this direction, having 
in mind the difficulties of the average club in the practical application and use 
of such a system. It is our opinion that items 2, 3, and 4 should be consolidated 
into one item, which should read, Mowing fairways, rough; and tees. This realty 
is one job, especially when it can be done with a tractor or triplex mower, ant 
where the tees are so built that they do not have to be cut by hand. In any 
event it is all a rough mowing job.

We do not see why item 9 should not be combined with item 6 under the 
heading, Fertiliziing, seeding, top-dressing, and eradicating worms from greens.
We do not understand what item 12, bam work, means. If it is the care 
of horses, we think it should be made clear, and if it is the care of equipment 
we think it should be combined with item 15.

In regard to item 13, Repairs to zvater lines, these are so trivial on the aver­
age course that we think it might be well to combine this item with 15. Another 
reason for this is that the watering systems of various clubs are of such dif­
ferent character that the cost of maintenance would not be comparable and 
would give no valuable information.

In his discussion of the heading, Labor on compost, Mr. Seubert says, “but 
will not include the screening of compost or the mixing- of compost with other 
materials prior to application.” The question arises whether the cost of screen­
ing compost should not be charged up against this labor. If you want to com­
pare the difference between the cost of compost and commercial fertilizer of any 
sort, it seems to us that you should know the cost of the compost when it is com­
pleted and ready to apply to the greens; in other words, when it is in just 
the same condition as commercial fertilizer would be when delivered to you 
ready to apply or to mix with other materials.

130 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n. No. 4

We think the general lay-out is exceedingly good, but we do feel strongly 
that for practical value we must get the plan so simple that a man of averagv 
education will be able to apply it reasonably correctly and without undue labor.

Comments by Mr. W. C. Ferguson, Glen Echo Country Club, Normandy, Mq
With reference to the daily time-card I would say that I have never been 
in favor of a daily time-sheet. I think a time-card for each man covering a 
period of two weeks is more satisfactory. Keep these time-cards in a loose-leaf 
book and have them turned in semi-monthly. This is also convenient when a 
man quits the work in the middle of a pay period, as his particular time-card 
can be taken out of the book, checked up, and vouchered. It also gets away from 
the necessity of writing a man’s name daily on the time-card. This is merely a 
matter of opinion, however, as the data desired can be obtained by either 
method. I am submitting herewith a form, on page 131, showing the. pay-sheet 
suggested by a committee of the St. Louis Greens Section. This is a weekly 
sheet, and there are a number of features which I do not like in it. I am having 
some prints made up for my own use which are considerably different from 
these sheets.

With reference to the distribution record, I would say that I do not think 
this is complete. There is no provision made for showing supervision, nor main­
tenance items on the club grounds other than on the course itself. I believe this 
to be of enough importance to warrant subdivision. I do not believe the daily 
distribution of time as shown in the Inverness Club record is of much value for 
comparative purposes, and the work necessary to subdivide the pay roll for each 
day into various items is quite considerable.

The report, in my opinion, should show not only the expenditures for labor, 
but for material; for the weekly, fortnightly, or monthly period. It should also 
indicate the total expenditure on any subdivision of the work up to date of the 
report and may or may not show the amount expended up to that time for the 
previous year; but above all, it should show the total budget allowance. I am 
also submitting a form, on page 132, showing the record recommended by a com­
mittee of the St. Louis Greens Section, which can be used either as a fortnightly 
or monthly report. This shows all the items I have mentioned above. I 
used something of this sort, which was not subdivided in such detail, last year, 
and found it very helpful, the items detailed in this budget allowance being 
made up from the budget expenditures of last year. The advantage of having 
the budget allowance on each report is that one can immediately see when 
one is beginning to approach the end of one’s “string.”

As for the Resume of Time Distribution, I cannot see what advantage that 
would have. I may not understand the purposes of this report, but at the pres­
ent time I do not see how it would aid in the organization or direction of 
grounds work.

The St. Louis Greens Section is having printed forms which are identical 
with this monthly maintenance report and expect to make comparisons of costs 
on the subdivision basis as shown. The committee is aware of the fact that this 
record is not anywhere near perfect; but something must be done; and it is 
hoped that by the end of the year some experience will have been obtained on 
which to draw up an intelligent record for the succeeding year.

With reference to the article in general, I think it is very good, and be­
lieve it will bring out some interesting discussions which will be very beneficial

Editorial Note

The comments illustrate and enforce the writer’s point that a standard 
system is a necessity, and that there must be a compromise between too much 
detail and too little, and that the system must be natural and workable. The 
clubs must work together on a standard system though it may not exactly suit 
everyone.

The article relates only to labor costs and leaves for future discussion other 
matters of accounting, such as material costs, budgets, etc. The most important 
item of expense is labor, and there can be no comparison of figures until the 
figures are made up so as to show where the labor is used and what it costs. 
The Green Committee of the U. S. Golf Association will value the cooperation

April 28. 1022) UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

131

........ ............-______ __________ COUNTRY CLUB

GROUNDS GREENS DEPARTMENT

Payroll No...... .....for Week Ending............ ........ 192....

Sheet No._____________

Of____________________

Name

Hours per Day

| Sat.

Fri.

Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed. Thur,

Total 
Hr*.

Rate

Total

Received Payment

1

1

2

1

2

1

2

1

2

I

2

1

2

1

2

1

2

Acct. Letter

Maint.

Const.

Classification

Construction

Maintenance

[ 

Total

Hrs. Amount Hr*. 1 Amount | Hr*.

Amount

LABOR DISTRIBUTION

Total

Note:

No. 1 line for acct. letter
No. 2 line for hours

a

b

c

d

•

f

*

b

i

J

k

1

m

n

o

p

Q

r

a

e

u

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

Road* and Walk*

Bridge* and Structure*

Trees, Shrubbery and Flowers

Lawns

Tennis Court*

Watering Green* and Tee*

Weeding Green* and Tee*

H '

Cutting Green* and Tees

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

Surfacing Greens and Tees

Fertilizing Greens and Tees

Seeding Green* and Tee*

Cutting Fairway and Rough

Seeding Fairway and Rough

Fertilizing Fairway and Rough

Traps

Piping and Drains

Balance of Links

Maintaining Implements

Supplies and Miscellaneous

Livestock

Supervision

Approved— 

Prepared by:

------------- .---- .-------. Chairman G. and G. Comm. ---------------- Grounds and Green Maa

Form Approved by Greens Section of the St. Louis District Golf Association

Total Distribution

132 

x 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n, No. 4

___________ ______________________ COUNTRY CLUB

Grounds a”r Greens Department

MONTHLY REPORTS TO CHAIRMAN

Month of______________ 192_ _ 

Maintenance and Upkeep 

Including Payroll No.   

l
c
c
A

i
t
t
e
L

a

b

c

d

e

f

r

h

i

i

k

1

Classification

Material

Labor

Total 
Current 
Month

Total Same 
Month 
Previous 
Year

Total 
To Date 
During 
Year

Total 
Budget 
Allowance

Roads and Walks

Bridges and Structures

Trees, Shrubs and Flowers

Lawns

Tennis Courts

Watering Greens and Tees

Weeding Greens and Tees

Cutting Greens and Tees

Surfacing Greens and Tees

Fertilizing Greens and Tees

Seeding Greens and Tees

Cutting Fairway and Rough

m Seeding Fairway and Rough

n

o

P

<1

r

s

t

u

A

B

C

D

E

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

Fertilizing Fairway and Rough

Traps

Piping and Drains

Balance of Links

Maintaining Implements

Supplies and Miscellaneous

Livestock

Supervision

Total

Roads and Walks

Bridge* and Structure*

Trees, Shrubs and Flowers

Greens

Tennis Courts

Trap*

Piping and Drains

Balance of Links

Implements

Miscellaneous

Livestock

Supervision

Construction and Replacements

Total

Acr** in Grounds, Greens and Links__________

Form Approved by Greens Section of the St. Louis District Golf Association

 
April 26,1922] UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

133

of member clubs in adopting some system of distributing labor costs, whether it 
is their own or some other club’s system, so that the experience of many can 
be available as a basis for the construction of a standard system next year.

It is hoped that the article will induce many clubs to attempt something in 
the way of a cost system and that there may be a general discussion of the 
subject through the columns of The Bulletin and otherwise, so that at the end 
of the year we shall have the material to use in making up something in the 
way of forms that can be accepted as standard.

4„  — 
11 ■ . :

----------- - - w 

- ~ M 

...  ... --

.. 

Questions and Answers 

I
All questions sent to the Green Committee will be answered as prompt- ! 
ly as possible in a letter to the writer. The more interesting of these I 
questions, with concise answers, will appear in this column each month. If j 
your experience leads you to disagree with any answer given in this ; 
column, it is your privilege and duty to write to the Green Committee. I 
Please bear in mind that the recommendations given apply specifically to J 
the locality designated at the end of the question. 
j

-7 

■Jill W-H ■■ M f i-M■ ■■ W 

■■  ■■ ll »  M ■» n ■■ —I M 

■■■ - II U M

s

1. Economizing in seeding by use of mixtures for northern greens, fair­
ways, and rough; wheelbarrow seeder vs. hand-sowing; rate of seeding; red 
fescue, bent, redtop, bluegrass, Pacey’s rye-grass, orchard-grass, tall meadow-oat- 
grass, meadow-fescue, sheep’s fescue.—You advise for fairways bluegrass, 4 
parts, fancy recleaned redtop, 1 part; for greens, German creeping bent and 
■fancy recleaned redtop in equal proportions. As you know, prices are unusually 
high this year, and I would like to cheapen this a bit if it can be done without 
great harm. Red fescue at 50 cents a pound is much cheaper than creeping bent 
at $1.40. Could I use 25 per cent fescue, 25 per cent bent, and 50 per cent 
redtop? Our soil is a fairly rich clay-loam, not a bit sandy; I know fescues are 
sand-lovers. Will 5 pounds to 1,000 square feet be heavy enough? We are 
seeding new greens, not reseeding old ones. Is there any mechanical hand­
sower that will insure sowing this seed more evenly and more economically than 
simply by hand-sowing? I presume a wheelbarrow seeder would be inadvisable 
for greens. Now, as to the fairways, can I cheapen my mixture a little by 
adding English rye, meadow fescue, or orchard-grass ? If I use rye-grass, would 
the short-seeded or Pacey’s rye-grass be better than the other grade? I am 
quoted the same price for either grade. What is the very cheapest seed I can 
use for new rough ? I had thought of orchard-grass, meadow-fescue, and redtop. 
I am not striving to get a hard rough, but just grass on it so the general ap­
pearance will be good and so that should we want at any time to change fair­
ways we could do so without much trouble. White clover is native to this sec­
tion, and on old sod we find it abundant, and it will naturally creep into all our 
fairways.—(Pennsylvania.)

Our advice would be to effect your economy by using some redtop, 
but not to use fescue. In our experience it has been almost useless to 
seed fescue mixed with the bents, as in the end the fescues never endure 
in competition with the bents. You can reduce your bill therefore by 
seeding with a mixture of 75 per cent redtop and 25 per cent bent. The 
redtop will eventually disappear so that you will have pure bent. The 
fescue, we feel sure, will not give you this result. The bent seeds, includ­
ing redtop, are very fine seeds, about 4,000,000 to a pound. Bear in mind 
that the rate we advise means about 20,000,000 seeds per 1,000 square 
feet, or 20,000 per square foot. Really one can get along with much less 
seed than this, but in our experience it is not advisable to reduce the 
seeding to a smaller amount, as it may take much longer to get a dense, 
well-knitted sod.

134

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE [Vol. n, No. <

Wheelbarrow seeders are very satisfactory either on the greens or on 
the fairways. On the greens you can seed in about four directions across 
the green before you will use 5 pounds to 1,000 square feet.

On your fairways there is no objection to using rye-grass or meadow- 
fescue, but we would not advise the use of orchard-grass. Meadow­
fescue is satisfactory in the moister soils. Rye-grass will grow in prac­
tically any soil; but bear in mind that rye-grass seeds are about fifteen 
times as large as redtop seeds, so that it is questionable whether you will 
get any economy by using rye-grass. Do not use rye-grass on the put­
ting-greens, as it lasts too long there. Pacey’s rye-grass is merely 
smaller seed screened out. We have no data on the relative economy of 
using these smaller seeds.

In your rough, sheep’s fescue is ideal, but the seed is scarce. The 
next best thing, in our judgment, would be a thin seeding of orchard­
grass and tall meadow-oat-grass. Both of these grasses make bunches 
and afford a very satisfactory rough. Tall meadow-oat-grass seed is, how­
ever, more expensive than the orchard-grass.

2. Testing seeds for germination.—What simple method or methods can 
we use in making germination tests here at home? Do germination tests prop­
erly bear any relation to purity determinations? For instance, a lot of seed 
might show 80 per cent purity, the remaining 20 per cent consisting of chaff or 
foreign seeds which we might not be able to distinguish from the true seed 
in selecting specimens for germination tests. In other words, if the germina­
tion test is carried out properly, should the specimens for that purpose be se­
lected only from the 80 per cent of pure seed? This would be a difficult matter 
to accomplish in a test conducted at home.—(Indiana.)

Germination tests are usually made on the basis of pure seed; that is 
to say, 100 seeds are taken from a sample and the percentage of germi­
nation is based on the number that prove to be viable; therefore, a sam­
ple might have a germination percentage of 90, even though it contained 
only 10 per cent of pure seed, the remainder being inert matter. In se­
lecting the seed for the test, however, an effort is made to get a sample 
that is representative of the bulk; in other words, caution is used not 
to pick out the plumpest and best-appearing seeds. Usually 100 seeds 
are selected for a test, so that the number of plants resulting represents 
the percentage of germination. The unit of measurement selected, how­
ever, is purely arbitrary, and if one knows what is desirable in the 
way of a stand from the seeding of any particular grass, it is quite easy 
to make a test by less exact methods. For instance, with creeping bent 
for putting-greens it has often been said that an ideal stand of seedlings 
is about seven seedlings to the square inch. If seed of the bents sown at 
the rate of one-quarter ounce to a test plot of 5 square feet accomplishes 
this result, we would regard the germination as satisfactory. This same 
rate of sowing would also apply in the testing of redtop seed. For fescue 
or bluegrass the rate for a test plot of 5 square feet would be one-half 
ounce of seed.

3. Southern limit of the range of bent and fescue for putting-greens.— 
I have recently read that by preparing the soil with certain special precautions 
good putting-greens of creeping bent or of red fescue can be grown any­
where in the southern States. Will you please advise us if such advice is re­
liable?—(Florida.)

One of the rather puzzling phenomena connected with all temperate 
perennial plants is that every one of them has a fairly definite southern 

April 26,1922J UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

135

limit. Thus timothy can not be cultivated successfully farther south 
than about the northern limit of the cotton-belt. Apples are cultivated 
a little farther south than timothy, while both the pear and the peach 
succeed considerably farther toward the equator. The southern line 
of creeping bent and red fescue is about that of timothy. Curiously 
enough, in the drier half of the United States all these plants succeed 
farther southward than they do in the eastern part of the country. It 
is not at all safe, however, to assume that because fescue is good in 
southern California it will do equally well in Florida. Theoretical 
explanations of the phenomena involve temperature, humidity, and 
length of daily illumination, and are too technical to discuss here in de­
tail. As yet no one has succeeded in making an all-the-year putting- 
green of either bent or fescue in the South. While we would not care 
to say it can’t be done, the chances of success are very small. Until 
it has been accomplished the question you ask is purely of academic 
interest.

4. Watering Green.—Our club borders on a lake and our course is sitt- 
uated some 1,600 feet from the shore of the lake and on an elevation of 115 
feet, so that we consider our drainage exceptionally good. What amount of 
water in gallons per square foot should we use to keep our greens in perfect 
condition?—(New York.)

We fear your question is an impossible one to answer in the way 
you ask it. The amount of water required to keep a green in the best 
condition depends upon a great many factors, including the quality of 
the soil, the surface drainage, the sub-drainage, and the elevation. These 
factors are so variable as to make it impossible to state the amount 
necessary to use in terms of gallons of water. Furthermore, these vary 
at the different times of the year and under different weather condi­
tions. In our opinion the important principle connected with watering 
greens is to soak them thoroughly when you do water them. Thorough 
soakings every two, three, or four days, as may be necessary, are much 
to be preferred to light sprinkling every day. If both your surface 
drainage and sub-drainage are good, there is little to be feared from 
overwatering. If on the contrary your drainage conditions on the 
greens are not good, there is bound to be trouble regardless of how 
you water.

5. Corrosive sublimate, copper sulfate (Bordeaux mixture), and slaked 
lime in mixture.—Will a solution of corrosive sublimate mix with a solution of 
copper sulfate and a solution of slaked lime, and will each retain its active 
properties if mixed as above?—(Illinois.)

Our chemist reports on this as follows: “Solutions of copper sulfate 
and mercuric chloride (corrosive sublimate) in moderate concentrations 
do not show any visible reaction or change. Mercuric chloride solution 
is, however, apparently decomposed by Bordeaux mixture. This is, no 
doubt, due to the action of the excess lime in the Bordeaux mixture, 
since alkaline solutions precipitate reddish brown basic salts from mer­
curic chloride solutions. The supernatant liquid from a Bordeaux mix­
ture produces this reddish brown precipitate when added to mercuric 
chloride solution.” From the foregoing it appears that corrosive sub­
limate can be dissolved in a solution of copper sulfate without chemical 
change. If, however, it is put in Bordeaux mixture or in lime water, 
chemical changes result which doubtless influence the effects of both.

Meditations of a Peripatetic Golfer

When the spring comes, there is to most people an intense desire to worry 
the soil. Nevertheless, late summer or early fall is the time to harry the soil on 
a golf course.

“Yes, we use a complete commercial fertilizer and get good results,” says 
one of my greenkeeper friends. We do not doubt his statement at all; but it is 
not economical. As a rule the potash and phosphorus in such fertilizers rarely 
help grass at all, and the freight paid on the filler is dead loss.

Soggy spots scattered over the course in early springtime. They are bully 

indicators of the places that need more drainage.

A natural, undisturbed soil surface is often beautifully undulated for a put­

ting-green. Much better than any artificially made flat surface.

“Rome was not built in a day”; neither can good golf turf be secured in 
one season unless the soil conditions are remarkably favorable. It is much 
cheaper and more satisfactory to spread the construction of a new course ovez 
two or three years than to waste money in the endeavor to accomplish it all 
in one season.

Did you ever notice how quickly the grass starts to grow with the first touch 
of spring? That’s one reason why the fine turf grasses should be seeded in the 
fall—so as to get that first, quick jump in the very early spring.

“Haste makes waste,” is an old adage worth heeding. The fellow who tries 
to grow good turf quickly regardless of knowledge and experience learns that it 
is perfectly true.

Lovely shrubbery and entrancing flower beds about the clubhouse. “Swat­

ting the pill” is not the only joy derived from golf.

There will be a free-for-all fight when we start discussing the question when 

and how to water greens.

A green committee of three that holds a session with the greenkeeper every 

Sunday morning. That’s what we call team work.

The penalty for failing to replace a divot should be $5.00 and costs for the 

first offense, and 30 days for the second.

A brass stencil costing less than ten dollars, a few boards, and a little 
paint will make a world of signs warning members to replace divots, to remove 
footprints in sand traps, and to avoid climbing tops of bunkers.

Few golfers seem to believe in “signs.” Put them up anyway. The ordinary 

man must read a thing seven times before he remembers.

Show me the compost piles and I’ll tell you what kind of a green com­

mittee is in charge.

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