THE BULLETIN of the UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION GREEN SECTION Vol. 12 Washington, D. C., May, 1932 No. 3 Conten ts Page The Bulletin Volumes to be Published in Six Numbers............................ 42 Landscape Plants for Northern Golf Courses. By Ralph W. Curtis......... 43 Earthworms and Cutworms Travel Far at Night................... 80 Questions and Answers....... ................................................... 81 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE Ganson Depew, Chairman, Marine Trust Bldg., H. Kendall Read, Vice-Chairman, Philadel­ Buffalo, N. Y. phia, Pa. Eberhard Anheuser, St. Louis, Mo. Robqit F. Arnott, Upper Montclair, N. J. Robert M. Cutting, Chicago, Ill. Walter S. Harban, Washington, D. C. K. F. Kellerman, Washington, D. C. Cornelius S. Lee, New York, N. Y. John Monteith, Jr., Washington, D. C. Wynant D. Vanderpool, Newark, N. J, RESEARCH COMMITTEE United States Department of Agriculture K. F. Kellerman, Chairman; Associate Chief, Bureau of Plant Industry. F. II. Hillman, Botanist, Seed Investigations. A. J. Pieters, Principal Agronomist in Charge, Forage Crops and Diseases. Oswald Schreiner, Principal Biochemist in Charge, Soil Fertility. W. R. Walton, Senior Entomologist, Cereal and Forage Insects. Harvey L. Westover, Senior Agronomist, Forage Crops and Diseases. United States Golf Association Green Section John Monteith, Jr. Kenneth Welton ADVISORY COMMITTEE Douglas Call, Richmond, Va. M. L. DeParlier, Delray, Fla. W. C. Fownes, Jr., Pittsburgh, Pa. A. J. Goetz, Webster Groves. Mo. William Harig, Cincinnati, Ohio. J. McRae Hartgering, Detroit, Mich. Frederic C. Hood, Boston, Mass. Norman Macbeth, Los Angeles, Calif. John Morley, Youngstown, Ohio. Guy M. Peters, Chicago, Ill. Alex Pirie, Fort Sheridan, Ill. George Sargent, Atlanta, Ga. John Shanahan, West Newton, Mass. Sherrill Sherman, Utica, N. Y. Harrison Smith, Oklahoma City, Okla. Henry P. Smith, Waco, Tex. Frederick Snare, Havana, Cuba. Charles E. Van Nest, Minneapolis, Minn. Alan D. Wilson, Philadelphia, Pa. The Bulletin is published six times a year by the United States Golf Association Green Sec­ tion, at Room 720". Building F, Constitution Ave. and 7th St., Washington, D. C. Address all MAIL to P. O. Box 313, Pennsylvania Avenue Station, Washington, D. C. Send TELEGRAMS to Room 7207, Building F, Constitution Ave. and 7th St. N. W., Wash­ ington, D. C. Subscription Price: In United States of America, $4.00 a year; in all other countries, $5.00 a year. Entered as second-class matter, April 21, 1926. at the post office at Washington, D. C„ under the Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted. 1932, by the United States Golf Association Green Section. 42 Vol. 12, No. 3 The Bulletin Volumes to be Published in Six Numbers In the past few years it has been the policy in the Bulletin to group related material, as opportunity provided, in single or con­ secutive numbers. One of the recent examples of this grouping was the discussion of southern golf course problems in the two numbers for September and October, 1931. Instead of scattering the discus­ sions of different methods used in the South through various numbers in one or more volumes they were all put together in two numbers. If a reader is particularly interested in the various methods used on the southern courses it is more convenient for him to refer to these articles if they are printed together. Many of our readers have ex­ pressed a decided preference for this method of presenting Bulletin material. In addition to the southern golf course discussion, which required two numbers in the 1931 volume, there was another group­ ing which required three numbers. In such instances it seems to be more desirable to have all of the material under one cover rather than grouped in two or more separate numbers even though they be pub­ lished consecutively. It seems likely that there will be an increasing number of subjects which can be handled best in a single number of the Bulletin of two or three times the normal size. Financial limi­ tations prevent the issuance of these larger-sized numbers as part of the customary volume containing 12 numbers. It has, therefore, been decided to issue 6 numbers of the Bulletin a year instead of the 12 numbers which have been published heretofore. It is expected that the same amount of material as formerly will be presented in a volume under the new plan. The numbers will vary in size. In some in­ stances, where the material demands, it will be double the old size and in other cases it will have triple the number of pages contained in the numbers of the previous volumes. Thus if the 1931 volume had been published under this new plan the related material for March, April, and May would have been grouped in a single number and that for the September and October numbers would have been grouped in another single number. The editors feel that this method will prove more convenient to our readers and at the same time will effect certain economies in the cost of publication. The change in the method of issuing the Bulletin is being made with the provision that it is to be placed on trial this year. If our readers prefer the old method of issuing 12 numbers a year the Bulle­ tin will be put back on the old schedule next year. The editors will welcome an expression of opinion from our readers as to which method they prefer after they have received a few of the new numbers. STATEMENT REQUIRED BY POSTAL LAWS AND REGULATIONS OF THE OWNERSHIP AND MANAGEMENT (AS OF APRIL 1. 1532) OF THE BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION GREEN SECT’ON, PUBLISHED SIX TIMES A YEAR AT WASHINGTON, D. C. The owner and publisher is the United States Golf Association, a corporation organized and existing under the law not for profit and having no capital stock, outstanding bonds, mortgages, or other securities. Officers: H. H. Ramsay, president; Rol>ert M. Cutting, vice-president; Rodman E. Griscom, vice-president; Charles H. Sabin, treasurer; Prescott S. Bush, secretary. Address: 110 East 42d St., New York, N. Y. The editors, managing editors, and business managers are John Montieth, Jr., and Kenneth Welton, Washington, D. C. Sworn to and subscribed nt Washington. D. April 21, 1932, by Kenneth Welton, busines manager, before Joseph L. Mahoney, notary public. May, 1932 43 Landscape Plants for Northern Golf Courses By Ralph W. Curtis Cornell University The first principle of good golf course design is variety. Those courses are valued most which provide, either naturally or artificially, the widest test of the judgment, skill, and strength of the player. This is the economic side of golf design and golf practice; but as in other professions, recreational or otherwise, there is also the esthetic side. Beauty and use should be inseparable. Humanity needs both. We begin of necessity with the economic and the useful, but life will not be complete until we have added beauty to use by thoughtful plan and loving care. Why is the Merion Cricket Club so typical of the best group of American golf courses? Because it has the three essentials of a good championship course—variety in design, beauty in environment, and perfection in maintenance. The skill and care of those in charge at Merion are evident everywhere. The result is satisfying and beauti­ ful ; and what is more vital still, it is increasing in interest and beauty as the years go by. Man naturally responds to his environment. We all surround ourselves with the best we can assemble. The Merion Cricket Club began with a wonderful site plus a few men who saw the possibilities of that site for human use and enjoyment in the field of golf. The quiet work of these men has stimulated pride in the course and then interest in the environment until now the combina­ tion of the two is wonderful. A round at Merion is a test and a tonic, a deed well done and a day well spent. A second general principle, therefore, as illustrated by Merion is that use and beauty should be combined. The closer these two coin­ cide and work together in harmony, the more perfect and satisfactory is the landscape result. In other words, it is entirely possible to plan and plant our golf courses, just as we do our home grounds, so that they will serve well the practical requirements of use and convenience and at the same time be beautiful and satisfying and a joy to live with. Three common ways in which landscape plantings can combine use and beauty on golf courses are by boundary plantings, by back­ ground and framework plantings, and by specimen groups and indi­ viduals. Boundary Plantings Boundary plantings may serve to hide unsightly objects such as sheds or railroad sidings or to screen buildings and highways which are too near. In this case privacy may be secured and the impression created that one is removed from the objectionable nearness of other activities. The necessity of boundary masses like these is thoroughly recognized in those parts of all well-designed large city parks where the problem becomes one of developing a country landscape in the midst of the city. While boundary plantings may be very serviceable in some parts of the golf course, they may be unnecessary or even quite objectionable in other parts where beautiful views open up to the outside. In such places a vine-covered fence or a low planting of shrubs with quiet, neutral appearance may be all that is needed. Any objects near a 44 Vol. 12, No. 3 view line (objects over which you look, like a fence or a shrub bor­ der, or objects between which you look, like trees which frame a view) should be quiet and neutral in appearance, so that they will not distract the attention from the view itself. In this case the distant view is the point of interest and not the nearby boundary planting. Again, a boundary planting of tall trees which are dense and pre­ ferably evergreen and are serving well as a permanent screen against outside objects may become also an effective background for attrac­ tive shrubs and smaller trees planted on the inside where they may be seen and enjoyed from the course and often from the club house itself. Background and Framework Plantings This brings us very conveniently to a discussion of background and framework planting. We can all recall the beauty of some old house with its background and framework of trees. Such trees nor­ mal in form and color like elm, oak, maple, beech, pine, or hemlock, make the best kind of background because they are neutral and therefore do not distract the attention from the building or other object which is the center of interest. At this point let me remind you that the great majority of our trees and shrubs have this quiet, neutral appearance. Only a few trees are very definite or positive in form. The Lombardy poplar is the best example of a large tree with positive, upright form. It is the exclamation point of the landscape; and exclamation points should be used carefully and with moderation. They should not be sprinkled all over the golf course. Neither should blue spruces nor any of the other spruces or firs be used to excess. Their form is very pyramidal and therefore unusual and positive and not quiet and restful. Of course, we want variety and interest on the golf course; in fact variety is the very essence of good golf course design. But there is no reason why we should go to excess in landscape planting any more than in dress or language or anything else. If we stand on any natural golf course which has not been arti­ ficially planted and look at the normal landscape masses around us including woodland growth, tree groups, and individual specimens standing out alone, we shall see that at least three-fourths and usually as much as four-fifths of our landscape environment is neutral and quiet in appearance. I am aware that all golf courses are not alike and that some are more rugged and picturesque with more variety and accent than others, but it is a very safe rule to be conservative and not to go to excess in the use of landscape plants which are pecul­ iar either in form, color, or other characteristic. Landscape plant­ ings on golf courses, just as those on any other good landscape job, should fit into the local environment. When the work is done, the plantings should so harmonize with the surroundings, whether these be naturalistic or formal, that they will appear as perfectly natural parts of the landscape. In most cases landscape plantings should consist of native materials or of materials which, cultivated or for­ eign, are similar in appearance to the natural materials of the locality. There are exceptions to this general rule especially in the case of plantings about the club house. In these situations near buildings, where things are architectural and more or less artificial, we may use any foreign plants we wish provided they have good form and foliage and sufficient denseness, if denseness is needed, or any other require­ May, 1932 45 ment, such as height or color, which is appropriate. Landscape plant­ ings should be appropriate and fitting no matter where they are. In the more formal situations about the club house, they may be more regular and formal in appearance and often spaced at regular dis­ tances and in regular alignment. But in the more irregular and in­ formal situations on the fairway and the rough the plants should be irregular and informal in appearance; also great care must be used in making the groups to avoid monotonous regularity both in the vertical outline of the group and in the spacing of the plants on the ground. Increasing Visibility Another use for background plantings is to increase visibility. A group of pine trees at the back or sides of a putting green will not only make a beautiful setting and background for the green but will Background and framework planting for a putting green helps a player to esti­ mate distance and more clearly defines the hole. In this illustration is shown the view from the approach to the eighteenth green on the Five Farms Course at the Baltimore Country Club, Baltimore, Md., where the National Amateur Cham­ pionship will be played September 12 to 17. also give direction to the line of play and a definite measure for the distance to be played. Deciduous trees (those which drop their leaves in the fall) are less desirable unless placed on the leeward side of the green so that the leaves will naturally blow away and not become a nuisance and extra care on the green. Here again you will notice that I have suggested pines as a background planting for the green rather than the stiffer and more pointed spruce and fir type. It is entirely possible to use these more positive forms occasionally. Even a group of Lombardy poplars now and then in an especially bold sit­ uation or where some special accent is desired mav be entirely correct. But these strong accents and peculiar effects are not the things we want to live with all the time. They are the exceptions, like the 46 Vol. 12, No. 3 emergencies and the spicy places in life. A few will go a long way. If there are too many we soon grow tired of them. Specimen Groups and Individuals Finally, let me speak of one situation, especially on “blind” holes, where tree groups or single specimen trees may be planted either in the rough or at the side of the fairway to serve as direction guides. These positions should be carefully located along the line of play, usually near the end of a shot, so that the tree or the group of trees will serve as a guide to the direction as well as a measure for the distance of the play. In addition to these useful purposes, such plantings will improve the natural appearance of a golf course and also afford occasional shady spots which may be very restful along There is a large variety of small trees and shrubs from which selection may be made for specimen planting. The Arnold crab (Matus arnoldiana, page 72), shown in the illustration, is interesting both in flower and in fruit. the way. As mentioned earlier in connection with the more formal plantings about the club house, these direction groups on the fair­ way and rough should be irregular and informal in appearance, and great care must be used in making the groups to avoid monotonous regularity both in the vertical outline of the group and in the spac­ ing of the trees on the ground. In the past, large trees have been used for this purpose in order to keep the ground clear and to pre­ vent loss of the ball. More recently, because of the great attrac­ tiveness of several small trees, such as flowering dogwood, tree Andromeda or sorrel tree, Washington thorn, redbud or Judas tree, and even some large bushy shrubs such as red-stem dog­ wood, goldenbell, Morrow honeysuckle, blackhaw, and flowering crabapples, some golf clubs have started a pioneer movement looking toward a better landscape setting for the course. Since several of these smaller trees and large shrubs just mentioned have abundant May, 1932 47 fruits attractive to birds, the planting of them for landscape im­ provement will not only add beauty to the course but will also con­ tribute to the still newer movement by which it is hoped every golf course will become a bird sanctuary. How to Arrange Fairway Groups Since these direction plantings are increasing I want to add a suggestion to help the beginner to lay out these informal groups on the fairway and rough with confidence, whether they be large trees with clear ground underneath or whether they be small ornamental trees or large bushy shrubs attractive in spring, summer, or fall. In almost all cases they should be distinctly natural and informal both in ground plan and in vertical outline. I recall one situation where a club was very limited for space on one part of the course. At that point the two fairways were prac­ tically parallel with each other with only a narrow rectangular rough between them. The situation seemed to demand only one or two scat­ tering tree groups placed strategically to serve as hazards with perhaps a stray tree or two here and there to break up the straight line effect. Instead of this a continuous line was laid down the middle of the rough and at every 50-foot interval a Lombardy poplar was planted interspaced regularly with box elder trees in the middle of the spaces between the poplars. The effect was ordinary and monoto­ nous, and instead of concealing the unfortunate narrowness and straightness of things the planting actually increased it. It is to prevent such mistakes as this that I offer the following suggestion for informal direction groups on the fairway and rough. It is always easier to avoid monotonous regularity by using uneven numbers of plants and by spacing the plants at unequal distances apart, increasing (but not regularly so) as the plants get further from the real center of the group. And this suggests that all individual plant groups should be individualistic; they should function as individ­ ual units and have a center of interest, just as any other composition should have. A safe rule to follow to produce this unity in individual plant groups is to make one plant or one part of the group the domi­ nant part. This can be done first by massing 2 or 3 of the plants close together to make that part of the group appear larger and denser at once and then by scattering the others in the group more widely and irregularly. Secondly, one can make the dominant plant or plants a different kind from the others in the group, either a larger-growing variety or one with a different, more definite form or perhaps a denser, more solid-looking framework or even a slightly different color (but too many colors will make a spotty appearance and destroy the unity of the group). In this way the secondary plants may be larger in number but smaller in size or more quiet in appear­ ance, while the dominant plant will be less in quantity but greater in other respects, such as larger in size, more positive in form, or denser in structure, and the like. In other words, the dominant plant is more or less an accent while the secondary plants are what we call neutral material. In this way the whole group will pull together to form one unit culminating in the dominant plant, which is the largest or strongest part and therefore the real center of interest. Thus far in this discussion we have stressed general principles, such as the following: variety is fundamental; use and beauty should 48 Vol. 12, No. 3 be combined; boundary planting will give privacy and screen out un­ desirable surroundings; background and framework planting will provide a neutral setting for objects of interest; care should be taken not to overdo, especially in the use of emphasis; and finally, we should plan individual groups and specimens to serve mostly for di­ rection by increasing visibility and providing a measure for distance but at the same time to furnish restful shadows along the way and also to add interest and beauty to the course by spring flowers, attrac­ tive fruits, autumn tints, and winter colors. I would like to conclude this discussion of general principles and bring the whole matter home to the immediate problem before us by answering the question “How shall we determine our needs?” In spite of vthe fact that I shall follow these remarks by lists of plants and by a discussion of their fitness for different situations, still I shall begin to answer this question by saying, Do not start with a list of plants nor with an effort to remember the names of certain plants that some one may have recommended to you. The plants must come later; the first step is to face the problem on the ground and analyze it in the abstract without thinking of any particular plants at all. For example, go out on the course and stand before each situation separately and ask yourself, What is needed here? Do we need trees that are tall or short? Should they be dense enough for a screen, and if so is the situation important enough to demand evergreens that will provide a permanent screen 12 months in the year? If you choose the softer more neutral evergreens, like pines or hemlocks, they will furnish a wonderful dark background for a clump of flower­ ing dogwoods early in May or for a splash of autumn color in the fall. And if you do this at that particular place, will it be seen and appre­ ciated here better than it might be somewhere else on the course? And again, if you put your best foot forward at that place and really create a nice effect, should the place be the only place on the course, or may there not be a few others at strategic points to balance up the interest and distribute it over the whole course? Perhaps you have a hole with a dog-leg turn in the fairway. A clump of trees on the inside of the turn would make a good direc­ tion guide and serve as a hazard to prevent short cutting. As you look at the situation, must the trees be tall with a high head under which you can,see (like the graceful American elm), or may the trees in the group be dense and low branching and thus afford a splendid background for a little Judas tree or redbud planted on the side from which you are looking? A clump of dense trees with an accent in front of it like this would make a delightful picture twice a year, once with purple flowers in spring and once with yellow leaves in autumn. This is the way to approach the problem. Figure it out in the abstract first. State the requirements and then lay down the specifi­ cations by asking your local nurseryman or other plant authority what specific plants will meet these specific requirements. Better still, let me urge all who can do so to seek the advice and service of a good landscape architect. Mistakes are costly. Often what seems like expensive service at the start is the cheapest in the end. If you must be your own doctor it is better to go slowlv and gain confidence with experience. Don’t forget to look over the entire May, 1932 49 course before you jump into the first job that you see. Determine what are the most urgent needs and concentrate on those first. Also enlist the help of the best men and women in the club. There are usually some members in every club who are interested and public- spirited enough to talk these matters over. Pick two or three who are best fitted and go over the situation with them, if possible sep­ arately and at different times. Perhaps follow this by a joint meet­ ing for general discussion, but at all times reserve final judgment for yourself. Keep an open mind; but when the decision is made go ahead as best you can. The way to do things is to do them! Classified List of Selected Plants for Northern Golf Courses The purpose of this list is to show size, density, and special pecu­ liarities of northern plants. All plant names in the list follow Standardized Plant Names, the official code of the American Nurserymen’s Association, except those in parenthesis, which follow Rehder’s Manual (1927) or Bailey’s Hortus (1930). The botanical name, which is in Latin, is printed in italics. It usually consists of two words, the first designating the genus and the second the species, as Lonicera japonica; when a third word is added the third word designates the variety within the species, as Lonicera japonica halliana, which we all know as Hall honeysuckle. Where the name of the genus is repeated in a description it may then be represented simply by its initial letter. Occasionally a fourth word may be found in a botanical name, representing, as a rule, a sub­ variety. This classified list is divided into seven “size groups,” as follows: Page 51 Page 53 Page 54 Page 56 Page 63 Page 70 Page 76 Group 1 Climbing vines.......................................................... Group 2 Ground cover (6-12 inches).................................... Group 3 Dwarf shrubs (H/2-3 feet)...................................... Group 4 Small shrubs (4-5 feet)............................................ Group 5 Medium shrubs (6-8 feet)........................................ Group 6 Large shrubs and small trees (10-25 feet)............ Group 7 Large trees (50-100 feet)........................................ These size groups, especially group 4 (below the eye level) and group 5 (above the eye level), have been fixed at certain limits for convenience only. A large number of the plants listed in group 4 will, in time, grow into group 5. Such plants, as explained below, are indicated in the list by the two group numbers “4-5” after the name. In the majority of cases the two size groups 4 and 5 might be thrown together as far as the final size of most of the plants is concerned. But most plants vary in size according to favorable or unfavorable conditions, also some vary more than others, and some grow more slowly than others and therefore may remain in the smaller size group for a longer time. Still others are very easily restrained by proper pruning, so that actually we may utilize them in a smaller size group than they would finally attain. For practical purposes, therefore, these arbitrary size groups have been established, and each plant as­ signed to a group, either because the plant belongs there permanently or because it may be used there successfully with a minimum of trouble on our part. 50 Vol. 12, No. 3 The letters in front of the names indicate the following: D Dense. E Evergreen. P Peculiar. This means that one should pause before using the plant. It may be too positive in form or color, too particular because tender (needing protection), weak-wooded or much troubled with insects or diseases, or requiring acid soil or unusual growing con­ ditions. S Semi-evergreen. In the discussion it will be found that many plants are described as requiring acid soil for their best growth. By acid soil, we mean a soil which is quite deficient in lime, usually sandy, well-drained, and comparatively low in plant food. A simple test to determine soil acidity can be made by using color indicators which are on the market. These are fairly accurate and can be purchased for a low price. They are almost indispensable in general soil work on the golf course. In order to correct a soil which is alkaline in reaction we should preferably remove the alkaline soil and develop pockets or areas of acid soil by bringing in woodland soil which is acid, or we may incor­ porate with the existing soil a small amount of aluminum sulphate (about 1 pound to a square yard), tannic acid, sulphur, acid peat, or other acid-producing substances. By all means test the soil before and after treatment, and do not apply an excess of any of these materials. Besides having an acid soil it is well to have considerable organic material incorporated with the soil. Also maintain a mulch of oak leaves, pine needles, or similar material to reduce surface evapora­ tion, and eliminate cultivation, as these plants are very shallow-rooted. Never add lime, bone meal, wood ashes, or other alkaline materials to the soil around these plants. Numbers after a name indicate that the plant may vary in size between the two size groups represented by the numbers. Thus “4-5” means that the plant may vary between “size group 4” and “size group 5.” Formal and gardenesque are two words added to the description of a plant to mean the following: Formal means that the plant is so even and regular in form (and often so dense and compact in growth) that it becomes too definite and positive for the usual informal and natural planting on the course. Gardenesque means that the plant is either such a distinctly flowering type or has been cultivated so long in gardens and home grounds that it would look out of place in any other situation. Planting Distances (distances apart to plant) depend upon size and vigor of the plants and upon the purpose of the planting. For more or less specimen planting, as on streets and driveways, in open picnic groves, ample park and golf groups, and the like, the spacing should conform quite closely to the size groups used in this classified list. All degrees of smaller spacing are used, ranging from the wide specimen planting just mentioned to windbreak, screen, and close hedge planting. In the latter case large hedge materials are spaced 2 to 3 feet apart, medium hedges (below the eye level) 15 inches apart, and dwarf edgings 4 to 6 inches apart. For extra dense effect, double May, 1932 51 rows are used, with the plants alternating in the rows so that the plants of the back row will stand opposite the spaces between plants of the first row. Vines on a fence are spaced 5 to 10 feet apart. For slow-growing ground cover, a 12-inch spacing is good, and for more vigorous, long-trailing varieties 2 to 3 feet is about right. Wide spacing should always be mulched to keep down weeds and prevent the soil from drying out. Pruning.—It is easy and often desirable to restrain many of the shrubs in these lists into a smaller size group. This is done simply by pruning out a few of the oldest stems close to the ground each year. This practice will stimulate new stem growth from the base, which will keep the plant not only smaller but also more vigorous, and at the same time perfectly natural in appearance. This kind of pruning is really a thinning-out process, often called gradual renewal. This is practiced very heavily with garden roses where even the young stems which remain after thinning are cut back so that only a few buds are left near the ground. In this case the purpose of such heavy thinning out and cutting back is to force the plant into unusual flower production. With hardy landscape shrubs, however, no pruning is required except that which is necessary to keep the plant free from disease or injury and strong and vigorous in appearance unless we wish to restrain it to a smaller size. In this case, prune moderately to produce gradual renewal each year, and also root-prune if the top growth is stronger than desired. Group 1. Climbing Vines DS Akebia quinata. Twiner. Fiveleaf Akebia More hardy than Lonicera japonica halliana, for which it often may be substituted as a screen plant. A graceful vine with small leaflets which are thick, leathery, and semi-evergreen. DP Ampelopsis (Parthenocissus) triczispidata. Ampelopsis (Parthenocissus) quinque folia. Ampelopsis (Parthenocissus) quinquefolia saintpauli. St. Paul Creeper Japanese Creeper Ail three of these creepers will climb on a solid surface by ten­ drils ending in discs, but the St. Paul creeper has also rootlike hold­ fasts on the stems. The Japanese creeper, often called Boston ivy, makes such a tight and even covering fcr brick and stone that it be­ comes monotonous in appearance. It also winterkills to the ground occasionally in northern New York State. Virginia Creeper P Bignonia (Campsis) radicans. Trumpet Creeper This is a southern plant which winterkills some in middle New York. The rootlike holdfasts do not hold well and dead wood also accumulates. For these reasons this plant should be confined to low situations where it can be fastened and pruned easily. Red trumpet­ like flowers in late July and August. P P Celastrus orbiculatus. Celastrus scandens. Oriental Bittersweet American Bittersweet Both are twiners with orange-colored berries in fall and winter. The sexes are separate, and both male and female plants must be used in order to develop fruits. The berries of the Oriental bittersweet are more abundant and always in lateral clusters, but the yellow-colored capsule (outer covering of the fruit) splits into three parts as it dries in the fall and soon falls off, leaving only the red-colored pulp which encloses the seeds. The berries of the American bittersweet are less abundant and always in terminal clusters (at the ends of the branches), but they are more graceful and also more permanent, since the capsule of the fruit does not fall off in winter even when the branches are cut and used for interior decoration. 52 Vol. 12, No. 3 D Clematis paniculata. Sweet Autumn Clematis Best fall-blooming vine. Flowers dense, white, and fragrant, in September. All clematis vines climb by twisting of the leaf and leaflet stalks. E Euonymus radicans vegetus. Bigleaf Wintercreeper An evergreen vine for brick and stone which is a little more hardy than English ivy and in addition has orange-colored berries like those of bittersweet described above. DEP Hedera helix. Brick and stone. English Ivy Best evergreen vine, but not always hardy. Is worth special care. It climbs by root.'ike holdfasts and will stand shade. Is very appro­ priate, and often safest in New England and New York when used as a ground cover instead of climbing on a solid upright surface. DE Hedera helix baltica. ties of English ivy. S Lonicera sempervirens. Twiner. This is a hardy small-leaved variety, with all the other good quali­ Trumpet Honeysuckle Slender scarlet trumpetlike flowers in terminal clusters attractive all summer. A southern plant but nevertheless one of the best vines at? Ottawa, Canada. Rambler Roses Somewhat gardenesque but very effective in the open if informally used in more or less parklike situations and not placed too far out in the wildest and most naturalistic parts of the course. None of these are real climbers. All must be attached to the support. A brief selection should include the following standard varities: American Pillar. Deep pink, single. Dorothy Perkins. Pink, double. Dr. W. Van Fleet. Light shell pink, double, beautiful in bud. Hiawatha. Deep crimson, single. Memorial Rose, White, single, very late, dark glossy foliage. Paul Scarlet Climber. Scarlet, semi-double. Tausendschon. Pink, flushed rose, semi-double. White Dorothy Perkins. White, double. Wisteria There are two main types, the Chinese, W. sinensis, and the Jap­ anese, IF. floribunda. In the Chinese wisteria the flower clusters are about 1 foot long and all the flowers of one cluster open about the same time. In the Japanese wisteria the flower clusters are about 1% feet long and the flowers of one cluster open gradually from base to tip. Both types have purple flowers blooming at lilac time and both have white-flowered varieties. The Japanese type is more hardy and often has been called Wisteria multijuga, but correctly this name should be restricted to a long-flowered variety of the Japanese wis­ teria called Wisteria floribunda macrobotrys. In this variety the flower clusters are 2 to 3 times as long as the type, i. e., 3-4^ feet long, and the effect of such long clusters with the flowers opening slowly from base to tip is not so pleasing as in either the Chinese wisteria or the normal Japanese wisteria. However, the Chinese wisteria is not so hardy and the flower buds are quite regularly injured in northern New England and New York. At Ottawa, Canada, Wisteria chinensis will not bloom unless laid down and protected over winter. Both Rehder and Wilson have spelled “Wisteria” with an “a” (Wistaria) but Standardized Plant Names retains the original spelling as used by John Nuttall in 1818. Bailey in his new Hortus also uses “Wisteria” and explains the matter fully on page 8, Hortus, 1930. Other good climbing vines are the following: Actinidia arguta, a twiner with bold foliage and very vigorous growth. It is tall-growing but has winter-killed at Ottawa. Aristo- lochia sipho, a very dense twnner with large leaves. Clematis jack- mani and variety alba (gardenesque) and C. Montana rubens. Hy­ drangea petiolaris; another vine for brick and stone, deciduous and very hardy, with white flowers in early June. Lonicera japonica May, 1932 53 DE DE halliana (Hall honeysuckle) and L. henryi. Polygonum auberti, the China fleecevine, which is a good twiner for screening and also pro­ duces a mass of white flowers in light, airy clusters on the ends of the shoots in September and October. Group 2. Ground Cover (6-12 inches) Alyssum gemonense. Gardenesque. Alyssum saxatile. Gardenesque. Goldentuft These two plants are very similar, but gemonense has broader and shorter leaves and more deeply notched petals. Both have dense, white, woolly foliage and make excellent low masses for the rock garden or dooryard. They are literally covered with yellow mustardlike flowers at the same time as the early white candytuft (Iberis tenoreana). This and the later-blooming Iberis sempervirens are also evergreen and of similar habit, so that the two (Alyssum and Iberis) make a very good yellow and white combination in May. Ground-Cover Plants and Rock Garden This is one of the views presented to the player as he stands at the 18th tee of the Scarsdale Golf Club, Hartsdale, N. Y. In the foreground is seen a portion of a rock garden with its ground-cover plants. The club house is seen in the distance. EP Arctostaphylos uva-ursi. Bearberry Grows best in full sun and in a poor soil usually containing much sand, gravel, or stone. EP DEP Hedera helix. Gaultheria procumbens. Acid soil. Wintergreen Tolerates shade but bronzes beautifully in winter sun. Berries red. English Ivy A vine which is not quite hardy and which normally climbs by rootlike holdfasts on a solid surface but which is often safer and very appropriate as ground cover especially in shade if not too dry. DE Hedera helix baltica. This is a hardy small-leaved variety, with all the other good qualities of English ivy. DE DE Iberis sempervirens. Gardenesque. Iberis tenoreana. Gardenesque. Evergreen Candytuft Tenore Candytuft These two little candytufts and the two Alyssums mentioned above 54 EP Vol. 12, No. 3 make an interesting color combination both in flower and foliage. All four are dense and evergreen and very effective in the rock garden or low border. The flowers are so abundant that they make a perfect mass of color, yellow in Alyssum and w’hite in Ibens. The foliage is also contrasting for it is silvery in Alyssum and dark green in Iberis. Shore Juniper Requires sun. Vigorous grower with lively green foliage and in­ J uniperus conferta. formal, uneven growth. Not hardy in Canada. EP Mitchella repens. Partridgeberry Acid soil, tolerates shade, grows slowly and close to the ground. Leaves small, berries red. Excellent plant for the rock garden. E Pachysandra terminalis. Japanese Pachysandra Best in shade and good under trees where grass does not grow pro­ vided soil is not dry. It also makes a fine background for spring bulbs which come up through it. Rosa wichuriana. Memorial Rose Dainty single, white flowers in July and wonderful dark, glossy foliage. Most effective when running over a stone pile or other soil mulch which keeps down the competing grass and weeds. E Vinca minor. Common Periwinkle or Blue Myrtle Endures shade just as pachysandra does, but in addition it will grow better in the sun and has blue flowers in middle May and a darker, denser foliage. Other ground-cover plants are the following, all being evergreen except Cytisus beanii, Vaccinium pennsylvanicum and Zanthorrhiza apiifolia: Cotoneaster dammeri, also called C. humifusa; not- quite hardy north of New York City. Cytisus beanii. Euonymus radicans acutus. E. radicans minimus (dwarf like Mitchella but not requiring acid soil). Juniperus chinensis sargenti. J. horizontalis and variety doug- lasi, which has permanent blue foliage. J. procumbens. Mahonia repens. Phlox subulata; makes a perfect sheet of color in the rock gar­ den in early May. Rubus hispidus, requiring moisture and acid soil and doing well in shade. Vaccinium pennsylvanicum (lowbush blue­ berry), which is a little bush 12 inches high requiring acid soil and spreading slowly by underground stems; it makes excellent- ground cover in open woods, helps to hold the leaves, provides food for the birds, and colors red in the autumn. Zanthorrhiza apiifolia (yellow­ root) . Group 3. Dwarf Shrubs (1’2-3 feet) DEP Azalea amoena. A. hinodegiri. A. ledifolia alba. See Azaleas (group 4). DP DP Azalea poukanensis. See Azaleas (group 4). Berberis thunbergi minor. Formal. Box Barberry Excellent low hedging. Does not carry the wheat rust. Three-spine Barberry E DE Berberis triacanthophora. Berberis verntculosa. For discussion of the best four evergreen barberries, including the two just mentioned, see group 4. DEP Buxus microphylla koreana. Formal. Korean Box This little box may be kept lower by clipping and is a little more hardy than the older dwarf box from Europe, but it has a lighter, more yellow-green color. DEP Buxus sempervirens suffruticosa. Dwarf Box This is the standard evergreen edging for garden paths but it is not hardy in the North without special care. D Cotoneaster apiculata. 3-4. Forms a broad hummocklike mass with abundant large orange- red berries. This is one of the most promising of Wilson’s new Chinese cotoneasters. Cotoncaster horizontalis perpusilla. Broad and flat with red berries. Rock Cotoneaster May, 1932 55 DEP Daphne cneorum. Rose Daphne or Garland Flower Neat little shrub with fragrant pink flowers blooming with Japa­ nese quince and Spiraea prunifolia plena. Requires poor, well-drained soil. DP Deutzia gracilis. Slender Deutzia White flowers (with lilacs). A favorite dwarf shrub but not always hardy north. DE Euonymus radicans. DE DE Euonymus radicans carrierei. Euonymus radicans vegetus. Wintercreeper Glossy Wintercreeper Bigleaf Wintercreeper All three forms of this euonymus will become bushy when no climbing surface is available. The two varieties have larger leaves than the type. Carrierei is the glossy one and also has leaves which are longer, i. e., more oval than those of vegetus, which are dull and often quite round. Both carrierei and vegetus fruit freely, but the smaller-leaved plant which we call E. radicans will not fruit except on those branches which develop the larger leaves of the varieties carrierei and vegetus. DP Hydrangea quercifolia. 3-4. Oakleaf Hydrangea This is a southern plant with bold foliage which is rusty hairy be­ neath. It seldom blooms in the North but if pruned to the ground each spring it will produce a very handsome dense foliage mass, 3 to 4 feet high. E Juniperus communis. Common Juniper This is the low wide-spreading juniper of New England pastures. The lowest form is variety depressa. From this it varies to an up­ right, columnar plant of which there are two well-known varieties, the Irish and the Swedish junipers. See group 4. E Juniperus horizontalis pluniosa. This is a relatively new juniper with flat top, horizontal spreading branches, and characteristic reddish-purple winter color. It makes a distinct winter accent. By some catalogues it has been called J. com­ munis depressa pluniosa. DE Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia. Tamarisk Juniper This is neat and solid with short horizontal branches which produce wonderful highlights and shadows. It is one of the most attractive dwarf types. EP Leucothoe catesbaei. Drooping Leucothoe A broadleaf evergreen which on Long Island turns a beautiful bronze purple in open sun, but should have partial shade farther north. Requires acid soil. DP Ligustrum lodense. Formal. Lodense Privet This is a horticultural name for a new dwarf variety of the Eng­ lish privet (Ligustrum vulgare). It is neat and compact, but is sub­ ject to the same twig blight which troubles the English privet, which see in size group 5. EP Mahonia aquifolium. Oregon Hollygrape Foliage is dark and usually glossy and ordinarily suffers unless it has winter shade. DEP Pieris floribunda. 3-4. Mountain Andromeda Very neab little evergreen, broad and rounded with a mass of white flowers in early May. The flower buds are greenish white in small, attractive, upright clusters all winter. Requires acid soil. Primus glandulosa sinensis. Gardenesque. Flowering Almond Flowers double pink before the leaves appear in spring and coin­ cident with the old bridalwreath (Spiraea prunifolia plena). Rosa rugosa repens alba (R. Paulii). A hybrid of Rosa rugosa with characteristic Rugosa thorns and foliage (dark, glossy and wrinkled) but special, low, moundlike growth with trailing stems and attractive, large, white flowers. Two other Rugosa hybrids of similar habit are Max Graff (pure pink) and Lady Duncan (deep salmon pink). The latter is an old cross between R. rugosa and R. wichuriana by the late Jackson Daw­ son, first superintendent of the Arnold Arboretum. Both have the 56 Vol. 12, No. 3 same Rugosa foliage, and combined with the White Pauli should make a wonderful low landscape group, very hardy, with good foliage, and large attractive flowers. DP Spiraea bwmalda Anthony Waterer. Formal. Anthony Waterer Spirea Red flowers in flat clusters in July, blooming with Jackman clema­ tis and Dorothy Perkins rose. D Symphoricarpos vulgaris (S. orbicularis). 3-4. Coralberry or Indian Currant A tough plant for holding banks. It grows in poor soil and spreads by underground stems and by branches which bend and take root. Red berries all winter. EP Taxus baccata repandens. Spreading English Yew Hardiest variety of English yew but needs some protection in mid­ dle New York. Arching branches produce broad rounded mass. DE Taxus cuspidata nana. Formal. Dwarf Japanese Yew All Taxus tolerate shade and have a very dark green foliage, almost black. The berries are red and the sexes are separate; therefore it is advisable not only to select female plants but also to have some male plants nearby. Very hardy. DE Thuja occidentalis “Little Gem.” Formal. Little Gem Arborvitae Twice as wide as high and much softer in appearance than the globe arborvitae. E Yucca filamentosa. Common Yucca This and a more narrow-leaved form called Y. glauca make bold tufts or rosettes of swordlike leaves which are 1% to 2 feet tall. The stems are short and usually underground. The flowers are creamy white in clusters on an upright stalk 4 to 5 feet tall in July. Other dwarf plants in size group 3 are the following: Deciduous.—Amorpha canescens. Cydonia maulei superba. Dier- villa trifida (D. lonicera) dwarf bush-honeysuckle; spreads rapidly by underground stems into solid patches which are excellent for holding banks and for low plantings along rocky trails where views must not be obstructed. Hypericum aureum; formal. H. prolificuni (3-4). Lonicera syrin- gantha ivolfi. Philadelphus coronarius nanus; formal. Potentilla fru- ticosa and the white variety veitchi. Ribes alpinum; formal; neat and dense, with good foliage; should make a good hedge. Rosa arvensis. R. foliolosa alba. R. spinosissima. Salix tristis. Symphoricarpos chenaulti. Viburnum opulus nanum; formal. Evergreen.—Calluna vulgaris; 12 to 15 inches, because it must be kept low and vigorous in the north by heavy pruning in early spring; acid soil. Chamaecyparis obtusa nana; called dwarf Hinoki cypress; formal. Cotoneaster microphylla thymifolia. Erica carnea; 6 to 8 inches; acid soil. Lavandula officinalis; gardenesque; prune to the ground each spring. Pachystima canbyi. Picea excelsa gregoriana and maxwelli; both formal. Rhododendron arbutifolium; acid soil. Rhododendron myrtifolium; formal; acid soil. Taxus canadensis; keeps a good green color only in shade. Thuja occidentalis globosa; formal and gardenesque. Group 4. Small Shrubs (4-5 feet, i. e., below the eye level) EP Abelia grandiflora. Glossy Abelia Not hardy north of New York City but very graceful, making good neutral “filler,” with glossy foliage and small but abundant fra­ grant white flowers through July and August. Aronia arbutifolia. 4-5. Red berries in winter. Azaleas Red Chokeberry These azaleas are here listed in order of bloom from middle April to middle July, or in terms of plants from forsythias to snow­ hill hydrangea and Rosa setigera, the prairie rose. Our three best authorities, Rehder Manual of Cultivated Trees and Shrubs (1927), Bailey Hortus (1930), and The Species of Rhododem- May, 1932 57 drons by the Rhododendron Society, Edinburgh (1930), all class the azaleas in the genus Rhododendron. The common hardy azaleas for the North are all deciduous, but we do use four evergreen azaleas of varying hardiness as follows: amoena, hinodegiri, ledifolia alba, and kurume. In the following list the names accepted by the above author­ ities will be added in parenthesis. The size group follows the name. All azaleas require acid soil with considerable humus and a surface mulch to keep the roots cool and moist. Also the evergreen types re­ quire shelter from drying winds and some shade from the morning sun while the roots are still frozen. None of the evergreen azaleas in this list are very hardy north of New York City. Amoena is the most hardy and kurume is the least hardy. All azaleas in this list bloom before the leaves appear except Azalea arborescens, A. calendu- lacea, and A. viscosa. Korean Azalea (Azalea poiikanensis) A beautiful azalea from Korea, as hardy as a Japanese barberry. P Azalea dahuriea mucronulata. 4. Rosy purple. Middle April. (R. dauricum mucronulatum). At least two weeks earlier than the others in this list. The next six types, i. e., the four evergreen azaleas and pouka- nensis and schlippenbachi, bloom together in early May. DEP A. amoena. 3-4. Reddish purple. Early May. Formal. Amoena Azalea (R. obtusum amoenum.) This is closely related to A. hinodegiri and A. kurume, but the leaves are smaller, plant is denser like the greenhouse azalea (A. indica), is more hardy and has been cultivated longer, but not so long as A. ledifolia alba described below, and finally the color is the poorest because it contains too much magenta. It is the hardiest of the evergreen azaleas, but even then it is not safe in the North unless sheltered, and therefore can not rate with Kalmia latifolia or any of the three native rhododendrons (Rhododendron carolinianum, R. catawbiense, and R. maximum) in hardiness. DEP A. hinodegiri. 3-4. Scarlet. Early May. Henodegiri Azalea (R. obtusum japonicum.) This is second to A. amoena in hardiness and requires a protected situation in the North, but the color is a good bright red. 58 Vol. 12, No. 3 DEP A. kurume. 3-4. Delicate shades in many colors. Early May. Kurume Azalea (R. obtusum japonicum.) Third in hardiness of these three R. obtusum varieties and not safe above New York City. A wonderful group with a wide range of delicate pastel colors. The leaves of all three forms of R. obtusum (amoemtm, hinodegiri, and kurume) are thin and glabrous (non-hairy) above, and shining with flattened, rusty hairs on the leaf stems and on the veins on the underside of the leaves. DEP A. ledifolia alba. 3-4. White. Early May. Snow Azalea (R. mucronatum.) About as hardy as A. hinodegiri and blooms at the same time. Leaves dull and usually grayish hairy above and below. DP A. poukanensis. 3. Lavender-purple. Early May. Korean Azalea (R. yedoense poukanense.) P A. schlippenbachi. 4-5. Beautiful large pink. Early May. Royal Azalea (R. Schlippenbachii.) This combines beautifully with A. pouka­ nensis. P A. vaseyi. 4-5. Delicate pink, almost white. Middle May. Pinkshell Azalea (R. vaseyi.) P A. kaempferi. 4-5. Orange-red. Middle May. Torch Azalea (R. obtusum Kaempferi.) Flowers often bleach in the sun but it is the best red azalea for the North. P A. nudiflora. 4-5. Pale pink. Late May. (R. nudiflorum.) Pinxterbloom P A. rosea. 4-5. Bright pink. Late May. Downy Pinxterbloom (R. roseum, Rehder.) By some authors still considered a variety of R. nudiflorum. P A. japonica. 4-5. Salmon-pink to salmon-red. Late May. Japanese Azalea (R. japonicum.) This is a vigorous type with large funnel-shape flowers. Both the Ghent and Mollis hybrids begin in late May and continue for three weeks or more according to variety. The Ghent azaleas (often called A. gandavensis) are a mixture of A. calendulacea and other American species with A. pontica (R. luteum) from Europe and Western Asia. The latter is tender, and therefore some of the Ghent azaleas are hardy and some not. The same is true regarding the Mollis hybrids (often called A. kosteriana), which are a cross be­ tween the hardy A. japonica (R. japonicum) and the tender A. mollis (R. molle) from China. Azalea Louisa Hunnewell is one of these hardy Mollis azaleas. P A. kosteriana variety Miss Louisa Hunnewell. 4-5. Orange-yellow to salmon. Late May (R. Kosterianum variety Miss Louisa Hunnewell.) P A. calendulacea. 4-5. Yellow to orange-red. Early June. Flame Azalea (R. calendulaceum.) Flowers with the leaves. P P A. arborescens. 4-5. Fragrant white. Late June. (R. arborescens.) Flowers after the leaves. A. viscosa. . 4-5. Fragrant white. Middle July. (R. viscosum.) Flowers after the leaves. Sweet Azalea Swamp Azalea D Berberis thunbergi. 4-5. Formal. Japanese Barberry The good qualities of this deciduous barberry are already well known. It is dense and round with small foliage, fiery autumn color, and scarlet berries all winter. It is the best of hedge plants to 6 feet) and does not carry the wheat rust. Too formal and too cultivated for general planting on the course. Excellent near buildings, entrance drives, and gardens. E Berberis (evergreen species). The best four evergreen barberries for the North are B. julianae, May, 1932 59 B. sargentiana, B. triacanthophora, and B. verruculosa. The first two are in group 4 and have leaves green beneath. The last two are in group 3 and have leaves white beneath. All have blue-black berries with blue-gray bloom. B. julianae has young twigs, yellowish and somewhat ridged, and fruit with a short but distinctly projecting style at the blossom end. B. sargentiana has young twigs, reddish and round, and fruit with a very short style which does not- project. B. triacanthophora is open and graceful, with leaves which are nor­ mal green above and less white beneath, and young twigs which are smooth and reddish. D B. verruculosa is dense, with leaves which are very dark and glossy above and very white beneath, and young twigs which are warty. B. triacanthophora is the most hardy, with B. julianae next. B. sargentiana and B. verruculosa are not safe in middle New York State without special care, but all four species are handsome, broad­ leaf evergreens and are well worth trying. DEP Buxus japonica. 4 plus. (B. microphylla japonica.) DEP Buxus sempervirens. 4-6. Japanese Box Common Box The Japanese box and its dwarf variety the Korean box (see group 3) are a little more hardy than the common box and the foliage is more yellow green. For best results in northern plantings all forms of box should be given as much consideration as possible. They are all formal and gardenesque. DEP Chamaecyparis pisifera pluniosa. 4-6. Gardenesque. Plume Retinospora This evergreen is not quite hardy North. It is soft and feathery in appearance provided it is kept young and vigorous by regular pruning each year. It is one of the most common plants used in the much- overdone “foundation planting” about city homes. It is really a small tree, but is listed here, instead of with the other Japanese retinosporas in group 5 or 6, because it can be restrained easily and, in fact, is much better in northern plantings if kept low and bushy by regular pruning. If this is not done some of the foliage will begin to brown and die and produce a very unsightly appearance. D Comus paniculate. 4-5. Greystem Dogwood This has the smallest leaves and the most' slender twigs of any of the shrubby dogwoods. It also spreads by underground stems and soon develops into dense, billowy masses which become covered with white berries on pink stems and later take on beautiful reddish-purple autumn tints. DP EP Cotoneaster divaricata. Cotoneaster salicifolia floccosa. Spreading Cotoneaster Willowleaf Cotoneaster Cotoneasters are near relatives of the crabapples and hawthorns and are subject to the same diseases and pests. The worst of these are San Jose scale, apple-tree borer, and pear or fire blight. A winter spray will cure the scale but sanitary pruning, i. e., continual removal of old and affected parts, will be required for the borer and the blight. However, these two new cotoneasters and others mentioned elsewhere in these lists are well worth the trouble and care. Both of these plants have attractive red berries in fall and early winter. C. divaricata also has wonderful red color in autumn and a good dense framework all the time. In this respect it resembles Japa­ nese barberry, but it does not have such an even, formal shape as the barberry. C. salicifolia floccosa is the hardiest evergreen cotoneaster grown in the Arnold Arboretum at Boston. The habit is light and graceful, the foliage dark green and glossy (willowlike), and the fruits are orange-red in great profusion and of long duration. At the Hoden- pyl estate in Locust Valley, Long Island, this plant has proved to be the most attractive of any cotoneaster in fruit. Deutzia kalrniacflora. Gardenesque. Kalmia Deutzia A very graceful shrub with a mass of rather large pink flowers, light inside and darker outside, blooming with garden lilacs. It is one of the best deutzia crosses (D. purpurascens x D. parviflora) made by the French hybridizer, Lemoine of Nancy. 60 Vol. 12, No. 3 D Deutzia lemoinei and D. "Avalanche." Gardenesque. The latter is a cross between D. lemoinei and D. purpurascens. Both D. lemoinei and "Avalanche" have white flowers in profusion at the same time as D. kalmiaeflora, making a good pink and white com­ bination. They resemble a large D. gracilis, but are hardy, whereas the latter is not quite satisfactory in New England and New York. Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora. Gardenesque Snowhill Hydrangea This is the best small shrub for white flower in summer. Treat it as an herbaceous perennial and cut the stems to the ground each fall. It will be more sturdy and bloom just the same. E Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana. 4-5. Pfitzer Juniper A broad evergreen bush with flaring branches clothed with loose, feathery branchlets, making a very handsome, irregular effect. It fits well into rugged and picturesque situations, and always provides a fine play of light and shade because of its uneven foliage. In regions of heavy snow and ice the branches must be freed during storms because the large, loose foliage collects snow and ice quickly and may result in serious splitting of the wide-spreading branches. This has proved to be one of the best junipers for hard city conditions. DEP DEP Juniperus communis hibemica. 4-5. Juniperus communis suecica. 4-5. Irish Juniper Swedish Juniper Both of these junipers are formal and gardenesque and are simply narrow, columnar forms of the more bushy common juniper (J. com­ munis) . They are like small exclamation points in the landscape. Also they are structurally weaker than similar narrow forms of either J. chinensis or J. virginiana (described in group 5) because they do not have a sturdy central stem. The branches of the Swedish and Irish junipers start near the ground and are simply folded up in an upright position. Wherever there are severe ice and snow storms these sep­ arate upright parts must be held together in some way to prevent bad bending and breaking. The Swedish juniper is a trifle more hardy than the Irish and is not quite so even and compact in outline. Both are apt to burn in the winter on the sunny side. EP Kalmia latifolia. 4-5. Mountain Laurel This is the finest broadleaf evergreen for the North. The leaves do not roll up and look miserable in cold weather as those of so many hybrid rhododendrons do. It requires the same special conditions rec­ ommended for azaleas. The flowers are abundant and beautiful, white with pink bud, in middle June, with Philadelphus coronarius and Rosa midtiflora. D Ligustrum ibota regclianum. 4-5. Regel Privet (L. obtusifolium Regelianum.) Very interesting horizontal growth and a mass of blue-black berries all winter. It should be grown from cuttings and not from seed, in order to preserve the special horizontal growth. It is the most attractive of all deciduous privets, and very useful in landscape planting because of its neutral horizontal habit of growth. D Myrica carolincnsis. 4-5. An old favorite, native from Massachusetts to Florida near the coast. The entire plant is fragrant. The attractive gray berries fur­ nished the wax for the original bayberry candles. The sexes are sep­ arate and to secure good fruiting both male and female plants must be used. The plant is dense enough to be used in semi-formal situa­ tions but is not objectionable anywhere. It does best in acid, sandy soil. D Philadelphus lemoinei in variety. Gardenesque. Lemoine Mockorange A wonderful group of dainty shrubs with graceful branches, small leaves, and a wealth of small, usually fragrant flowers. Common varieties are “Avalanche,” “Boule d’argent,” “Candelabre ” “Mont Blanc,” and “Pavilion Blanc.” ’ Virginal is a very popular Lemcine hybrid, but it is very different from the dainty types above. It is taller (5) with a loose, open habit of growth and abundant large, fragrant, semi-double, white flowers. It is not a good permanent type for landscape planting but is best grown in quantity in the garden for cutting. May, 1932 61 DE Pinus montana niughus. 3-6. Mugho Pine This is the best bushy pine, dark green and dense. Some individ­ uals are much more dwarf than others, and therefore plants needed for small rock garden situations or for other special effects should be selected in the nursery. Prunus triloba plena. 4-5. Gardenesque. Doubleflowering Plum Called for a long time flowering almond, but now this name is re­ stricted to varieties of the smaller-growing Primus glandulosa de­ scribed in group 3. The doubleflowering plum is an old favorite in New York State. In Ottawa, Canada, it has been perfectly hardy and has bloomed profusely provided it is grown on its own roots from soft-wood cuttings and not top-grafted on European stocks. DEP Rhododendron carolinianum. Acid soil. Carolina Rhododendron This is the smallest and earliest of our native rhododendrons. The flowers are rosy pink at the same time as pinxterbloom (Azalea nudiflora) and garden lilacs. The leaves look more cheerful in cold weather and do not roll up so much as the leaves of many hybrid rhododendrons do. See group 5 for rhododendron planting table show­ ing size, color, and time of bloom. Rhus canadensis. Fragrant Sumac This is the lowest sumac. The leaves have 3 leaflets like a big clover leaf and take on a gorgeous red color in autumn. The plant has spreading stems which rest upon the ground producing a broad mass of good foliage below the eye level. The twigs are aromatic when broken. P Rosa rugosa. Rosa lucida (R. virginiana). Virginia Rose This blooms in middle June with Philadelphus coronarius. It has pink flowers and glossy foliage and red stems. The winter attractive­ ness is increased by cutting the stems to the ground in spring every 3 or 4 years, which removes disease and scale and also stimulates vigorous growth. This is a regular practice in the roadside borders in the Arnold Arboretum. At that time the border can be easily culti­ vated, weeded, and top-dressed with manure before new growth starts. Rugosa Rose Very hardy, upright-growing rose with large flowers, handsome dark-green wrinkled foliage, large red fruits, and rich orange-yellow autumn color. It blooms in early June, with the Scotch rose (Rosa spinosissima) and the late lilac (Syringa villosa). The following va­ rieties and hybrids are good: Agnes, double orange-yellow; alba, single white; Amelie Gravereaux, double carmine blooming through the season; Blanche Double de Coubert, double white blooming through the season; Sarah Van Fleet, pink. For best results and to avoid dis­ ease and scale, vigorous renewal pruning should be practiced by cut­ ting out some of the old stems each year. If this maintenance can not be given, one should not plant Rugosa roses in quantity. Rosa setigcra. Prairie Rose This has large pink flowers and rather coarse, bold foliage with wide, arching stems, making a broad, informal mass, usually below the eye level. It blooms in middle July, a month after Rosa lucida but at the same time as the white, low, trailing Rosa wichuriana. Rosa spinosissima altaica. Altai Rose The Altai rose is early (with garden lilacs and Rosa hugonis) and white with dainty foliage. It is simply a larger variety of the Scotch rose listed in group 3. Spiraea arguta. 4-5. Gardenesque. Spiraea billiardi. Gardenesque. Spiraea trichocarpa. Gardenesque. Garland Spirea Billiard Spirea Korean Spirea Three small spireas usually below the eye level. The garland spirea is the first spirea to bloom, with tiny white flowers similar to but earlier than those of S. thunbcrgi. The latter is not quite hardy North, and has narrower leaves and very slender twigs producing the most dainty and feathery effect of any spirea. (See additional list following.) The Korean spirea is medium in time of bloom with arch­ ing branches and dainty white flowers blooming just after the larger 62 Vol. 12, No. 3 and more commonly planted Van Houtte spirea. S. billiardi is an old reliable for pink flowers in summer at the same time as the snowhill hydrangea and the prairie rose just mentioned. The flowers of the Billiard spirea are in narrow, upright spikes similar to those of inch in diameter), red on the sunny side and orange-yellow on the other. The fruits make a wonderful sight during August and September and are much appreciated by birds long after frost. P Oxydendrum arboreum. Sourwood A small, graceful Southern tree hardy North if given light, well- drained soil. Nodding clusters of creamy white flowers (like lily-of- the-valley) in summer and gorgeous red, peachlike foliage in the fall. Swiss Stone Pine Japanese Flowering Cherries General height is 20-25 feet, but Naden (P. sieboldi) is about 15 feet, Fugenzo and Yoshino are 30-40 feet, and the Yama or Sargent cherry (P. serrulata sachalinensis) is a standard tree 60-80 feet. Prunus. DE Pinus cembra. 6-7. Higan or Spring Cherry (Prunus subhirtella) Courtesy of the Arnold Arboretum This early, broad, and bushy cherry produces the greatest mass of flowers of any of the single Japanese cherries. The general form is upright with spreading branches, but the Yama or Sargent cherry is compact and oval resembling the culti­ vated sweet cherry (P. avium). The Higan or spring cherry (P. subhirtella) is dense, broad and bushy, with branches often facing the ground and producing the greatest mass of flowers of any of the single Japanese cherries, while the weeping rosebud cherry (P. subhirtella pendula) is really picturesque and the oldest variety planted in the United States. It has weeping branches, slender leaves and a light airy effect that makes it the most distinct and graceful of all Japanese flowering cherries. The duration of bloom, including early, medium, and late varieties, is about three weeks, depending upon weather con­ ditions. A brief selection of hardy varieties should include the fol­ lowing: Early.—P. subhirtella, single light pink; P. subhirtella pendula, single light pink; Yama, single pink. Medium.—Jo-nioi, semi-double white; Ichiyo, double pale pink; Naden, semi-dcuble pink. Late.—Shirotae, double white (tips of the petals faintly tinged 74 Vol. 12, No. 3 pink); Fugenzo (Kofugen), double light pink; Kwanzan, double deep pink. DP Quercus robur fastigiata. Formal and narrow. Pyramidal English Oak This is positive in form, like Lombardy poplar, but is small, slow- growing, and tough-wooded. D Rhus cotinus. Gardenesque. Rhus copallina. 5-6. See group 5. Rhus glabra. Rhus glabra laciniata. Rh/us typhina. Rhus typhina laciniata. Shining Sumac Common Smoketree Smooth Sumac Cutleaf Sumac Staghorn Sumac Shredded Sumac Most sumacs are planted for their autumn color. They do well in poor soil and often have very attractive fruits. In smoketree the fruits develop into large, feathery clusters which are purplish in late summer. P Sorb us decora. Salix caprea. Salix discolor. Salix purpurea. Goat Willow Pussy Willow Purple Osier Showy Mountain-ash This is a small native tree of bushy habit not more than one-half or two-thirds as large as the more commonly planted European moun­ tain-ash. It has the same red, showy fruits in winter and is subject to the same trouble from borers in the trunk near the ground. D Syringa chinensis. Gardenesque. Chinese Lilac This old familiar hybrid is one of the most satisfactory of all lilacs because it combines the gracefulness of one parent, the Persian lilac, with the strong foliage of its other parent, the garden lilac. It is dense but not stiff and produces great masses of bloom in nodding clusters at the same time as the garden lilac, either rosy color, pink­ lavender, or almost white, according to variety. Syringa henryi variety lutece. Gardenesque. This is a hybrid derived from the late lilac, which is better with larger and looser flower clusters. The flowers vary from pinkish-lilac to light purple as they open. Syringa japonica. Formal and gardenesque. Japanese Tree Lilac This is of special interest, first because it is really a small tree to 30 feet with dense, rounded form, large bold foliage, and character­ istic cherrylike bark, and second because it blooms a month later than the garden lilac, with white scentless flowers in large, handsome, broad, pyramidal clusters at the ends of the branches. Syringa oblata dilitata. Gardenesque. Early Lilac There are several forms of S. oblata, but all have broad, leathery leaves which turn violet-red in the fall. This is the only lilac which has autumn color. The Rochester parks consider variety dilitata to be the most satisfactory form of S. oblata in the Highland Park collec­ tion. The flowers are lilac-pink, and like all such early types may be injured by late frosts. Syringa pubescens. Gardenesque. Hairy Lilac While the flowers are only a pale lilac and only medium in size, they are the most fragrant of all lilacs. For this reason alone we should include it in any representative collection of lilacs. D Syringa villosa. Gardenesque. Late Lilac This and its hybrid S. henryi lutece bloom just after the garden lilac and will prolong the interest for at least another week. The flowers vary from pinkish-lilac to light purple as they open. D Syringa vulgaris. Gardenesque. Garden Lilac There are many varieties from which the following is a brief selection: White.—Edith Cavell, double; Reine Elizabeth, single and a strong bloomer. Pink to rosy lilac.—Lilarosa, early, beautiful creamy pink; Lucie Baltet, delicate pink, salmon in bud. Lavender to purple.—Charles X, single reddish in bud, late, an old favorite; Philemon, single dark purple, reddish in bud. May, 1932 75 Deep purple red to reddish.—Congo, single, deep purple red, the finest dark lilac; Diderot, late single, claret purple. The bloom of garden lilacs is short and lasts only a week or ten days, therefore it is worth while to consider such other types as the early lilac and the late lilac to extend the season of bloom of the garden lilac. E Taxus cuspidata capitata. See groups 3, 4, and 5 for lower types. This variety capitata develops a central stem and becomes treelike. The foliage and fruits are the same as in the other varieties. American Arborvitae DEP Thuja occidentalis. 5-6. See group 5. DE Thuja occidentalis douglasi pyramidalis. See group 5. DE Thuja occidentalis spiralis. See group 5. DE Thuja occidentalis wareana. See group 4. DE Thuja orientalis. See group 5. DEP Thuja plicata. 6-7. Giant Arborvitae This is a giant timber tree of the West Coast which is coming more and more into ornamental planting in the East. The foliage is more glossy than the Eastern arborvitae and it assumes a more attractive, bronzy color in the winter. It is faster-growing and more open at the top, but apparently is not quite so hardy. It will need more pruning than the slower-growing kinds, but its better foliage may be worth the additional care. Tsuga canadensis. 4-7. See group 4. Tsuga caroliniana. 4-7, See group 4. Viburnum dentatum. 5-6. See group 5. Arrowwood Viburnum lantana. Wayfaring-tree Viburnum lentago. Nannyberry Viburnum opulus. 5-6. See group 5. European Cranberrybush Viburnum opulus sterile. 5-6. See group 5. Common Snowball Viburnum prunifolium. Blackhaw Viburnum tomentosum. 5-6. See group 5. Doublefile Viburnum Viburnum tomentosum plicatum. 5-6. See group 5. Japanese Snowball Canby Viburnum Of the three large viburnums, lantana is distinctly the dense, round type with large, bold foliage. Prunifolium is broad and dense but with more horizontal-growing branches; it is quite distinctly thornlike in appearance. Lentago is more neutral and upright­ growing, being neither round and formal like lantana nor dense and picturesque like the horizontal-growing prunifolium. The fruits of all these viburnums are very attractive in their changing colors from yellow-green through pink and red to blue-black. D Viburnum venosum canbyi. 5-6. See group 5. DE DE D D D Additional deciduous plants in size group 6 are the following: P Albizzia julibrissin rosea. New and probably tender in many situa­ tions, but very promising as it has developed at the Arnold Arboretum in Boston. Foliage delicate and unusual with showy flowers, which are pink and of long duration in late summer. P Amygdalus (Prunus) persica, especially the double white variety albo- plena and the double red variety rubroplena. Not much used in orna­ mental work because so much troubled with peach borer. Caragana arboresccns. Very hardy, also endures dry soil. P Catalpa bignonioides nana. For a long time the trade has called this plant Catalpa bungei. It is weak-wooded, like all catalpas, and when grafted, as it usually is, 6 feet high on the upright stem of the tree catalpa it becomes very formal, stiff, and round in appearance. If grown naturally on its own roots it will make a large, broad, dense, rounded mass. Elaeagnus angustifolia. Leaves are narrow, willowlike, and silvery. Planted mostly for its gray foliage, which is light and airy and pro­ duces the effect of greater distance. Halesia tetraptera. 76 Vol. 12, No. 3 P Hipphophae rhamnoides. The sexes are separate and both male and female plants must be present to produce the fruits, which are very handsome orange berries. Plant is also very good for seaside planting. P Koelreuteria paniculata. Not quite hardy; showy yellow flowers in sum­ mer in large clusters above the foliage. Lonicera maackii podocarpa. Berries red, attractive in late September. P Photinia villosa. Attractive red fruits on warty stems. Subject to fire blight and scale, just as are plants of Cotoneaster and Crataegus. Quercus ilicifolia. The common native in poor sandy soil of the sea­ board states. Rhamnus cathartica. Tough and resistant, often used for hedges. Symplocos paniculata. Especially valuable for its brilliant blue berries. Additional evergreen plants in size group 6 are the following: DE Chamaecyparis obtusa. See group 5. These are slow-growing small trees, but usually function in group 5 or even smaller by pruning. DE Pinus nigra. Included here because it can be restrained by pruning to form a large bush or small tree. Very tough and hardy, excellent for exposed seashore planting. Group 7. Large Trees (50-100 feet) Smaller trees are included, with the height indicated. DEP Abies concolor. White Fir This is silvery green, sometimes quite bluish. It is a wonderful tree in the landscape, plenty strong enough for accent but softer and more refined than the stiff blue spruce which it somewhat resembles. Nikko Fir A distinct habit of branching makes this the most picturesque of DEP Abies homolepis. all firs. DEP Abies nordmanniana. Nordmann Fir This has wonderful dark glossy foliage. DEP Abies veitchi. Veitch Fir Probably the best of all firs. Foliage dark and lustrous above and very white beneath. (All Abies are here marked with the letter P because of their posi­ tive, pyramidal form. One should pause before using many Abies or Picea either. They are stiff and spiky, excellent for specimen ac­ cents but usually too emphatic for neutral backgrounds or quiet boundary plantings. Pines and hemlocks will be much safer in these latter situations.) D Acer platanoides. Round. Formal. Very round, dense, and low-branched. Norway Maple Acer rubrum. Red Maple Trunk and limbs gray and attractive like beech in winter. D Acer saccharum. Betula lenta. Betula papyrifera. Sugar Maple Sweet Birch Canoe Birch This is the best of the white birches. It is not often troubled by the borer. All birches have wonderful yellow autumn color. Cladrastis lutea. 40-50 feet. Yellow-wood Flowers white in hanging clusters like wisteria, but later, after the leaves appear, making good contrast with the dark foliage. Trunk and limbs gray and attractive like beech in winter. D D D P Fagus americana (F. grandiflora). Fagus sylvatica. Round-oval. Formal. Fagus sylvatica asplevifolia. Fagus sylvatica pendula. This is irregular and picturesque. American Beech European Beech Fernleaf Beech Weeping Beech DP Fagus si/lvaticff riversi. Round-oval. Formal. Rivers Purple Beech This is dense and also conspicuous because of its deep purple foliage. May, 1932 77 P Ginkgo biloba. Maidenhair-tree This is an excellent tree with distinct foliage little troubled by in­ sects or diseases. But the sexes are separate, and since the fruits are oily and bad-smelling only male trees should be planted. Selected trees can be propagated easily by patch budding. Hicoria (Carya) ovata. Rugged and picturesque. Shagbark Hickory P Larix europaea (L. decidua). Juglans nigra. Black Walnut European Larch Form is pyramidal and therefore conspicuous and definite, but the early spring foliage is a wonderful fresh green and very effective. D Magnolia conspicua (M. denudata). 40-50 feet. Yulan. Flowers large, white, and tuliplike, before the leaves. This is one parent of the hybrid group that we know as Magnolia soidangeana. On the right, Red Pine (Pinus resinosa); on left, Sargent Hemlock (Tsuga sp.) In winter the evergreens alone remain to lend cheer to the landscape. Nyssa sylvatica. Tupelo, Pepperridge Form and branching is very irregular and picturesque. Autumn color is a wonderful red. DEP Picea engelmanni. Engelmann Spruce Resembles the Colorado blue spruce but the foliage is softer and not so wide-spreading. DEP Picea omorika. DEP Picea orientalis. DE E E P Siberian Spruce Oriental Spruce Austrian Pine Red Pine White Pine Lombardy Poplar Trembling Aspen This is the least coarse of the poplars; foliage is dainty, autumn Pinus nigra austriaca. Pinus resinosa. Pinus strobus. Popidus nigra italica. Narrow and emphatic. Populus treimdoides. color yellow, and the limbs and trunk in winter are silvery green. D Prunus serrulata sachalinensis. Yama or Sargent Cherry A handsome, hardy, early-flowering cherry from Japan, single and pink in late April with Magnolia stellata. It is compact and oval, resembling the mazzard (Prunus avium). DEP Pseudotsuga douglasi. Douglas Spruce This is a pyramidal tree but the color of the foliage is a quiet, neu­ tral green and the habit of growth soft and graceful. Therefore it is safer for most landscape planting than the stiffer firs and spruces. 78 P P P Quercus alba. Qttercus coccinea. Quercus imbricaria. Quercus palustris. Positive because pyramidal. Quercus prinus. Quercus rubra. Salix vitellina. All willows are weak-wooded and rapid-growing. Vol. 12, No. 3 White Oak Scarlet Oak Shingle Oak Pin Oak Chestnut Oak Red Oak Golden Willow D D Tilia petiolaris. Tilia cordata. 40-50 feet. Sorbtts aucuparia. 40-50 feet. Mountain Ash Much planted because of its handsome orange berries in winter, but it must be protected against borers in the trunk near the ground. Small-leaf European Linden Weeping Silver Linden This does not have pendulous branches and therefore it is not a real weeping tree. The stem of the leaf is simply more drooping, with the result that this fine linden is more graceful than the ordinary types. D Tilia tomentosa. Formal. Oval. DE DE Silver Linden Tsuga canadensis. See group 4 for description. Canadian Hemlock Tsxiga caroliniana. See group 4 for description. Carolina Hemlock Ulmus americana. American Elm One of the grandest' and most graceful of trees for large-scale and open-landscape planting. It is tall and vaselike and will give good shade and not interfere with the circulation of air. Additional deciduous plants in size group 7 are the following: P Acer dasycarpum (A. saccharinum). Handsome and rapid-growing but weak-wooded and easily broken. The roots are near the surface and cause much disturbance to sidewalks, curbs, and water pipes in street plantings. Acer pseiuloplatamis. Aesculus camea brioti. Flowers red. D Aesculus hippocastanum. Formal. Flowers white. P Ailanthus glandulosa. Rapid-growing and weak-wooded but flourishes better under hard city conditions than any other tree. P Betula alba. A beautiful tree and very graceful but so infested by the bronze birch borer that it becomes useless for permanent planting. There are several varieties, such as pendula which is weeping and laciniata which is both weeping and cutleaf. All are infested by the same borer, for which there is no remedy. P Betula lutea. Requires cool, moist location. Betula nigra. The limbs and upper trunk have attractive reddish-brown bark in winter. Betula populifolia. Little troubled by the borer. Catalpa hybrida. 40-50 feet. Flowers white. Catalpa speciosa. Flowers white. All catalpas are rapid-growing and weak-wooded. D Ccrcidiphylluni japonicum. 30-40 feet. Formal. Fraxinus americana. A vigorous grower which seeds so freely that it often becomes a nuisance and requires continual cutting out. Fraxinus excelsior. P Fraxinus excelsior pendula. Gleditsia triacanthos. Gymnocladus dioica. Hicoria (Carya) cordiformis. Juglans cinerea. Larix laricina. Larix leptolepis (L. kaempferi). P Liriodendron tulipifera. The wood is very brittle and not safe for play­ ground planting. The foliage is excellent and color a beautiful yellow in fall, but the tree may kill back in severe winters in northern New York and New England. D Magnolia acuminata. May, 1932 79 Monts (mulberries). 30-50 feet. Excellent bird food, but the sexes are often separate on different trees, in which case both sexes must be planted. Phellodendron aniurense. 40 feet. Platanus accrijolia. Platanus occidentalis. Platanus orientalis. P Populus alba. Will stand hard, dry city conditions very well. All poplars are quick-growing and weak-wooded. P Populus eugenei. Pntnus avium and serotina. Pseudolarix kaempferi. P Robinia pseudoacacia. Badly troubled by borers. P Salix blanda (weeping form). All willows are weak-wooded and rapid-growing. DP Salix pentandra. This is the best of all willows for rich dark foliage. It is large, glossy, and peachlike. P Salix vitellina pendula. Sophora japonica. Tilia americana. Ulmus campcstris (U. procera). P Ulmus puniila. This is the fast-growing elm so widely advertised for hard, dry conditions of the South and West. In the Northeast there seems little need for it, since we have so many better trees to choose from. Zelkova serrata. This is a near relative of the elm and is the most im­ portant timber tree of Japan and Korea. With us it is merely a curi­ osity of botanic gardens and a few private places. Additional evergreen plants in size group 7 are the following: Abies cephalonica. DEP DEP Abies cilicica. Abies fargesi. One of Wilson’s promising Chinese introductions. DEP DEP Abies fraseri. A Southern tree hardy in the North. It looks like the balsam fir but succeeds much better in cultivation. DEP Abies numidica. Very much like Nordmann fir. All Abies are here marked with the letter P because of positive, pyramidal form. One should pause before using many Abies, or Picea either. They are stiff and spiky, excellent for specimen accents but usually too emphatic for neutral backgrounds or quiet boundary plant­ ings. Pines and hemlocks will be much safer in these latter situations. DEP Picea canadensis (P. glauca). DEP DEP DEP DEP Picea excelsa (P. Abies). Picea glehni. Picea pungens. Picea pungens glauca. All Picea are here marked with the letter P for the same reason that Abies are. See note under Abies. E DE E E E E E Pinus ponderosa. This has the longest and boldest foliage of any North­ Pinus banksiana. Pinus cembra. See group 6. Pinus densiflora. Pinus excelsa. Pinus koraicnsis. Pinus pence. E E DE DE ern pine. Pinus thunbergi. Pinus sylvestris. Tsuga diversifolia. Tsuga sieboldi. 80 Vol. 12, No. 3 Earthworms and Cutworms Travel Far at Night One frequently hears discussions as to how far earthworms and grubs travel on the surface of putting greens during the night. These pests frequently leave their trails in the dew which indicates that they travel long distances. The accompanying photograph was taken on velvet bent on the Arlington turf garden in 1928, when the grass was covered with a heavy dew after the dew had accumulated on the turf. Cutworms and earthworms moving across it rubbed off the dew and left the dark, irregular streaks shown in the photograph. Tracks of earthworms and cutworms on dew-covered turf The rabbit tracks running vertically across the picture and the dog tracks running horizontally about two-thirds up the picture serve to bring out the size of the area included in the photograph. The long distances which many of these turf pests travel during the night, as is evidenced in this photograph, emphasize the need for protect­ ing the borders of putting greens with poisoned treatments in order to make effective any remedies which are used on the putting greens themselves. At certain seasons these pests travel much farther than at others. Frequently an apparent reinfestation of a putting green which is sometimes blamed on the sudden ineffectiveness of chemical remedies may in reality simply indicate that the earthworms or cut­ worms have moved in from turf surrounding the putting area and as yet they have not been exposed to the poisons long enough to be injured. May, 1932 81 Questions and Answers Value and use of peat and muck.—We have just purchased an acre of muck land of a uniform depth of about 8 feet. We are sending you four samples of this muck each taken from a different depth. Please test these samples for acidity and advise what fertilizing value they possess and how suitable they would be for top-dressing putting greens. (New York) Answer.—Peats and mucks contain some nitrogen, but it is in an unavailable form and hence the material can not be used as a source of nitrogen for fertilizing purposes. They contain phosphoric acid and potash only in traces or comparatively small amounts which can not be considered of value. The surface sample is very well de­ composed reed muck derived from the material below, which is still in the peat form. At the depth of 2 feet the material is more fibrous and is mixed with woody debris. At the depth of 5 feet the material is only slightly decomposed. At the 7-foot depth the material is still peat, somewhat similar to that at the 5-foot depth. The material at the 5-foot depth is very acid, testing pH 4.5. The sample from the 7-foot depth is less acid, testing pH 6. A deposit such as this, pro­ cured at a reasonable price, would provide an excellent source of organic matter, which can be put to good use by mixing it with soil so as to provide good, open, friable soil for seed beds and excellent soil for top-dressing purposes. Applying lime to putting greens in brown-patch controls—On sev­ eral of our greens the soil shows an acidity of pH 4.5. At what rate should limestone be applied on soil of this character to aid in check­ ing brown-patch? (New York) Answer.—On soil you describe limestone should be applied at the rate of 25 to 50 pounds to 1,000 square feet. This is for spring appli­ cation. If you want quicker results during summer months hydrated lime may be applied at a rate not exceeding 10 to 15 pounds to 1,000 square feet at any one time. Usually it is safe to use much larger quantities, but during hot weather occasionally burning results, and therefore lower rates of application are advisable, repeated when nec­ essary. Hydrated lime should not be applied at the time when nor for several days after sulphate of ammonia or other fertilizers con­ taining ammonia are applied. This is because the hydrated lime reacts chemically with ammonium salts and liberates ammonia gas, which is poisonous to turf. The effect of lime in brown-patch con­ trol is discussed at some length in the Bulletin for May, 1929. Agricultural slag as a substitute for ground limestone.—We can buy ground limestone for $6 a ton and agricultural slag for $1.30 a ton. The latter is claimed to contain 82 per cent carbonate of lime and 3.1 per cent carbonate of magnesia. Which would you recom­ mend us to purchase for use in reducing acidity on bluegrass fair­ ways ? (Pennsylvania) Answer.—In Bulletin 220 of the Pennsylvania Agricultural Ex­ periment Station, State College, Pa., entitled “The Agricultural Value of Specially Prepared Blast Furnace Slag,” agricultural slag is given, on the whole, a favorable comparison with limestone. Considering the lower price of the slag, it is worthy of a trial. 82 Vol. 12, No. 3 Controlling annual bluegrass (Poa annua).—Some of our greens are now (May) infested with annual bluegrass. This is the first sea­ son it has appeared. As it grows in patches all over a green, the putt­ ing surface is practically ruined. Our greens are of bent grass. We are informed that in a few weeks the annual bluegrass will die and we may then expect good greens. Your advice will be appreciated. (New Jersey) Answer.—It seems that in your section annual bluegrass will eventually invade any putting green regardless of the grass that is used. It does not stand the hot summer weather well and much of it will die during summer. Your bent grass will probably take its place as fast as it dies. However, much annual bluegrass seed will remain in the turf and germinate the following autumn or spring. In order to reduce annual bluegrass in a putting green it is desirable to prevent as much of its seed as possible from getting into the green. This can be done in various ways. Greens that are subject to washes should be protected by having grassy hollows or sand traps on the hillside to catch these washes, since otherwise much seed of annual bluegrass may be washed upon the green from higher elevations. Also the material used for top-dressing should be examined carefully to see whether or not it contains annual bluegrass seed. This may be done by setting out a flat of the top-dressing material, watering it, and observing what germinates in it. Where the infestation of a green is in scattered spots, the patches of annual bluegrass may be removed with a hole cutter and replaced with good turf. We know of no chemical or fertilizer treatment which will keep annual blue­ grass from invading a green. It gets in much more easily if there are poor spots of turf such as may result from disease or lack of ade­ quate care. If turf is kept healthy and closely knit at all times there is less likelihood of annual bluegrass becoming established in a putting green. Ridding greens of Dichondra.—We are sending you a piece of turf containing a cloverlike weed which is gradually showing itself on our Bermuda grass greens and smothering out the Bermuda. What is the weed and how can we get rid of it? (Louisiana) Answer.—The piece of turf you send is infested with a weed, common to your section of the country, called Dichondra. This weed is rather difficult to remove and it may eventually be necessary to remove the turf and resod with pure Bermuda grass or plant with Bermuda grass seed. Before going to that extreme, however, you may have some success by sprinkling the infested area with sulphate of ammonia early in the spring when the Bermuda commences to grow. Pure sulphate of ammonia should be placed in a canister or salt shaker and dusted on the infested areas early in the morning when the dew is still on the ground. Within a few hours after a light dusting it will be noticed that the weed is being burned and is turning yellow. At that time the putting green should be watered in order to wash the chemical into the soil and prevent injury to the grass roots which may be in the weedy area. This direct application of sulphate of ammonia to the weedy area serves two purposes; it tem­ porarily destroys the weed and it stimulates a new growth of Bermuda grass in these areas by its fertilizing action. Several of these treat­ ments may materially decrease the amount of the weed in your greens. , o r o b s n e e r G , b u C l y r t n u o C d l e i f e g d e S , ) s d r a y 0 8 4 ( e l o h h t n e e t h g i E A SONG THE GRASS SINGS The violet is much too shy, The rose too little so; I think I’ll ask the buttercup If I may be her beau. When winds go by, I’ll nod to her And she will nod to me, And I will kiss her on the cheek As gently as may be. And when the mower cuts us down, Together we will pass, I smiling at the buttercup, She smiling at the grass. Charles Granger Blanden