Bulletin of the Green Section 
of the U. S. Golf Association

Vol. IV 

Washington, D. C., August 21, 1924 

No. 8

A MONTHLY PERIODICAL TO PROMOTE THE 
BETTERMENT OF GOLF COURSES

CONTENTS. 

PBEe

Some Suggestions for Beginners on the Vegetative Planting of Creeping 

Bent. R. A. Oakley_________________________________________ 182

The Drainage of Sand and Grass Traps. Wendell P. Miller____________  184

A Periscope for Use in Connection with Blind Holes. E. F. McRae_____ 187

Instructive Golf Holes XI. No. 9, Merion Cricket Club_______________ 188

A List of Public Golf Courses in the United States with Information 

Concerning Each __________________________________________  191

A Serviceable Inexpensive Fairway Sprinkler. R. S. Ludington_______  195

Twenty-Eighth Women’s Amateur Golf Championship of the United States 197

Twenty-Eighth Amateur Golf Championship of the United States______  199

Some U. S. Golf Association Decisions on the Rules of Golf____________  200

New Member Clubs of the Green Section__________________________  200

Questions and Answers__________________________________________  201

Meditations of a Peripatetic Golfer_______________________________  208

MEMBERS OF THE GREEN COMMITTEE OF THE UNITED 
‘Dr. C. V. Piper, Chairman

> STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

Dr. R. A. Oakley, Vice-Chairman

*E. J. Marshall, Vice-Chairman 

W. A. Al,EXANDER 
Frank B. Barrett 
A. C. U. Berry 
J. K. Bole 
Wm. F. Brooks 
C. B. Buxton 
A. H. Campbell 
N. Stuart Campbell 
W. C. Ferguson 
Wm. C. Fownes, Jr.
♦Dr. Walter S. Harban 
Dr. Thos. P. Hinman 
A. J. Hood 
Frederic C. Hood 
Norman Macbeth 
P. D. Maxwell 
Sherrill Sherman 
James L. Taylor

♦Wynant D. Vanderpool 
♦Alan D. Wilson 

Frank L. Woodward

♦Executive Committee member.

Inverness Club 
Old Elm Club 
Hollywood Golf Club 
Waverly Country Club 
Mayfield Country Club 
Minikahda Club 
Dallas Country Club 
Toronto Golf Club 
Agawam Hunt Club 
Glen Echo Country Club 
Oakmont Country Club 
Columbia Country Club 
Druid Hills Golf Club 
Detroit Golf Club 
Kittansett Club 
Wilshire Country Club 
Dornick Hills Country Club 
Yahnundasis Golf Club 
Ekwanok Country Club 
Morris County Golf Club 
Pine Valley Golf Club 
Denver Country Club

ADVISORY MEMBERS

Washington, D. C. 
Washington, D. C. 
Toledo, Ohio 
Fort Sheridan, Ill. 
Deal, N. J. 
Portland, Oreg. 
South Euclid, Ohio 
Minneapolis, Minn. 
Dallas, Texas 
Toronto, Ont. 
Providence, R. I. 
Normandy, Mo. 
Pittsburgh, Pa. 
Washington, D. C. 
Atlanta, Ga.
Detroit, Mich. 
Marion, Mass. 
Los Angeles, Cal. 
Ardmore, Okla. 
Utica, N. Y. 
Manchester, Vt. 
Convent Station, N. J. 
Clementon, N. J. 
Denver, Colo.

Hugh I. Wilson, Merion Cricket Club, Haverford, Pa.
F. H. Hillman, Washington, D. C. 

James

W. R. Walton, Washington, D. C. 
D. Standish, Jr„ Detroit, Mich.

Published by the Green Committee of the United States Golf Association, 456 Louisiana Avenue. 

Washington, D. C. Editorial Offices: P. O. Box 313, Washington, D. C.

Subscription price: To golf clubs that are members of the Green Section of the U. S Golf 

Association, $4.00 per year (included in membership fee).

Entered as second-class matter December 16, 1921, at the postoffice at Washington, D. C.. under 
the Act of March 3, 1878. Copyright, 1924, by the Green Committee of the U. S. Golf 
Association.

182 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Voi.iv.No.s

Some Suggestions for Beginners on the Vegetative Planting 
of Creeping Bent

By R. A. Oakley

If you intend to take up any feature of the vegetative planting of 
creeping bent this fall now is the time to start preparation. If you are 
a real novice and wish to make only a simple start you may do so with 
very little effort. While we think very highly of the vegetative method of 
producing creeping bent turf, we regard it as unwise for any club or 
individual to make even a very simple start with this method because he 
has been told it is the proper thing to do. Do not take the word of others. 
There are now examples enough close at hand so that you may see for 
yourself with relatively little expense or loss of time just what can be 
accomplished by this method in the making of bent greens. Really, when 
one stops to think of all the successes, it seems like a waste of good 
time to start in the simple way many have started—that is, by planting a 
row of stolons 100 feet long and waiting for enough material to develop 
to plant a green or a small practice green two years from the time the 
start is made; but it is a thoroughly safe way, and about all that is lost 
is a year’s time. If a year’s time means anything to you, take our advice 
and plant a nursery this fall sufficiently large to produce stolons 
for planting at least one green a year hence; or, if you wish to make even 
a shorter cut, buy stolons of a good strain from some reputable grower 
and start planting when the proper time comes this fall.

Knowing that there are many who have heard of vegetative greens, 
as they are called, but who are still more or less in the doubting class or 
think they can not afford such greens all at once, and therefore wish to 
feel their way along, we have thought it might be well worth while to 
make some suggestions that will start such individuals in the proper way. 
To you who are in this class we assume that the die is east and that you 
have investigated the proposition to the extent that you have a very 
good comprehension of what it is all about and have decided to make a 
simple start in a garden or some other similar spot. Very well. Prepare 
a strip of your garden as you would for planting radishes or lettuce. Do 
this about the middle of August or the first of September. There are many 
strains of creeping bent; so it is up to you to choose one you like, or get 
the advice of some one who knows something about them. The Green 
Section will give you the names of several growers from whom stolons 
may be purchased. The selection of the strain is an important step.

For a start such as you have in mind, a row 100 feet long is ample. 

So order your planting material on this basis.

When the stolons arrive and you open the package you will probably 
find what looks like a rather rough piece of loose turf. Be ready to do 
the planting at once. Make a row or drill an inch deep, as suggested, 
and if your strip is not sufficiently long make as many more as you need, 
but make them at least 6 feet apart. After the rows have been prepared, 
tear the stolons or runners apart and lay them*in strands of 2 or 3 end 
to end, or with the ends lapping somewhat in the drill. After this is 
done cover with a little less than a half-inch of soil, and press down with 
the foot, oi’ you may use a roller, if you prefer. If the job is well done, 
parts of the stolons will stick up above the soil. They should not be 
buried completely. After planting, the rows should be kept moist until 
the new growth has made a good start. No cutting, dressing, or covering

August 21, i<j24 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

183

of any kind will be needed during the fall or winter. What to do next 
spring is another chapter.

You will doubtless want to know what you may reasonably expect 
from a 100-foot nursery row if you plant one this fall. If the planting 
is done the latter part of August or the first part of September, and proper 
care is given, such as is suggested frequently in The Bulletin, you should 
have a row of a thick mat of stolons at least 3 feet in width the following 
August or September. The row in its actual width should’be 4 or 5 feet 
wide, but the marginal one or two feet will be' somewhat thin, and should 
be thrown in for good measure.

A row of a thick mat of stolons 3 feet wide will give you sufficient 
material to plant a row at least 25,000 feet long. In other words, a mat 
of stolons a foot square is sufficient for planting a row 75 to 100 feet long. 
This is a safe basis upon which to make an estimate.

The beginner who starts with a large nursery has the same problems 
of planting and care as those that confront the one who begins with a 
short row, but at the end of the first year he will have a sufficient quantity 
of stolons for planting one or more greens while the small beginner will 
have only enough to start a real nursery.

Assuming that you planted a good-sized nursery last fall and will 
be ready to plant your greens this fall, you will wish to make an estimate 
of the area your stolons will plant. The first thing to do is to measure 
the material and calculate the area of stolons that form a thick mat, leaving 
off the marginal fringes. Then consider that 1 square foot of such a mat 
of stolons will plant 6 to 10 square feet of green. Lean toward the safe 
side; for you are likely to be disappointed if you plant thinly. While it 
is possible to plant too thickly, your own good judgment will keep you 
from doing so.

As for preparation of the green for planting, this may be the same 
as for seeding; but don’t use all of your available well-rotted manure in 
making the soil of the greens—you will need some for making com­
post for covering the chopped stolons at the time of planting. 
Furthermore, you will need compost for light top-dressings as 
the growth from the stolons develops. Better provide at least iy2 cubic 
yards of well-screened compost made of loam or clay loam, sand, and about 
20 to 25 per cent by volume of well-rotted manure, as has been suggested 
many times in The Bulletin, for each 1,000 square feet to be planted. 
This will give you enough for covering the stolons and for the subsequent 
top-dressings that will be needed the first fall.

All preparations should be made by August 15, as the planting should 
be done between this date and September 15 in the latitude of Washington, 
D. C. When you are all ready for planting, lift the stolons and chop them 
by the method that is most convenient to you. A hand-operated fodder 
cutter is a good implement to use. Chop the stolons into lengths of about 
3 inches or less. Some may tell you that it is economical to plant stolons 
without chopping them. This may be true, but chopped stolons produce 
more new plants than unchopped stolons. Don’t go to the trouble of 
chopping stolons for planting nursery rows, but chop them for planting 
the green. Don’t worry about chopping too finely, for it would be difficult 
to do so by any ordinary means. After you have progressed this far in 
your operations, the following are some very important suggestions to be 
considered: Chop the stolons as soon as possible after lifting them from 
the nursery and plant them as soon as possible after they are chopped. 
Scatter the chopped stolons evenly over the green and cover them evenly 

184

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vol. iv.No. s.

with not more than %-inch of compost—preferably less—and in such a 
way as not to disturb their even distribution. Water with a rose nozzle 
also in such a way as to avoid disturbing the chopped stolons. Keep the 
planted area moist until a good growth is made; this is very important. 
There are many other points involved in planting, but if you observe the 
ones here emphasized you may count very definitely upon success.

After growth has started from your plantings do not be afraid to 
cut and top-dress the greens the first fall. Top-dress every two or three 
weeks if possible. One cubic yard of compost is enough for 3,000 to 
5,000 square feet for a single application. About the first of October you 
might add approximately 2 pounds of ammonium- sulfate to each 1,000 
square feet of green. Mix the ammonium sulfate well with the compost 
and water in thoroughly after applying it.

As for cutting, the evidence is in favor of relatively close and fre­
quent cutting. Some allow their greens to grow long enough in the fall 
so that the cuttings may be used for planting other areas. This means 
that the cuttings must be sufficiently long to have one or more joints. 
Such cuttings make excellent planting material if used while fresh; but 
our advice is not to make nurseries out of your putting greens.

There will be some weeding to do from the time the greens are planted 
until winter arrives, and the best time to do it is when the weeds first 
appear. However, many of the weeds that are in evidence in the fall will 
winterkill and give no further trouble.

If planted properly at the time here suggested, your greens should 
turf over nearly completely the fall they are planted and be playable by 
the middle of the following May, but if they seem to cover over slowly do 
not worry. Give them good care, as advised in The Bulletin, and they 
will come out all right.

Just a word again about nurseries. Don’t attempt to continue a 
nursery after it is one year old. Plant new rows every year, using fresh 
stolons for planting them. And when you plant your nursery be sure 
to hand-pick the stolons, otherwise mixtures of strains is nearly inevitable, 
which of course is undesirable.

The Drainage of Sand and Grass Traps
By Wendell P. Miller, Agricultural Engineering Department, Ohio State 
University

How to fix the tile-drains in sand and grass traps so that they will 

drain rapidly and yet not clog with sand is a question very often asked.

The tile-drains from traps should have outlets into the general fair­
way and green drainage system, but this often results in clogging the 
tiles because of the sand and sediment carried into the lines through 
poorly protected tile in traps. The tile must be buried under the sand 
if a dry bottom is to be obtained; but often the best depth for tile-drains 
in the fairways is not deep enough to allow much cover over the tile in 
deep traps. If the tile is placed with open ends at the surface level of 
the sand in the traps, there will be a continual loss of sand from the trap.
Two possible means of protecting the general drainage system from 
clogging and at the same time permitting the rapid entrance of water to 
the tile will be explained.

The first method is used where the tile under the trap can be . placed 
at a depth of 12 inches or more below the bottom of the sand layer, and 

August 2i, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

185

the second method is used where the tile must be placed just under the 
bottom of the sand layer.

The illustration Fig. 1 gives all the details of construction. The tiles
must have large openings between the joints, but the size of the pieces of 
porous material must be larger than the crack between the joints of the
tiles. The material used for ___
closing the crack over the 
top half of the tile should 
be a good heavy grade of 
asphalt felt roofing. If a 
positive permanent covering 
of this part of the tile joint 
is desired, a little cement 
can be spread over the roof­
ing paper. The depth of 
porous material between the 
top of the tile and the bot­
tom of the sod filter -will de­
pend on how deep it is pos­
sible to go with the trench 
and still get a good outlet. 
The thicker this porous lay­
er the better, up to two feet. 
The sod filter layer is the 
important part of this trap 
drainage scheme. I tried 
several ways of keeping the 
coarse material from com­
ing up into the sand layer. 
When clay was used the 
water would stand over the
tile lines for several hours; CBOS5 SECTION 
when a wire screen divider
was placed between the sand 
and the coarse material, the 
sand would go down and 
eventually find its way into 
the tile. But w^hen sod is used it will remain in the ground for several 
years, and after the whole mass is well settled the rotting of the fibrous 
root mass will leave thousands of small pores through which the water 
will travel rapidly without carrying down any fine material to clog the 
tiles. The sods should be the heaviest-rooted bluegrass obtainable, with 
as many leaves and stems as possible. Cut the sod just thick enough to 
obtain the heavy part of the fibrous root system, and in any event never 
more than 4 inches thick. Sod grown on heavy clay soils should be cut 
thinner than sod grown on lighter, more porous soils.

r-i p j
' X

DCLAIN

OF

The second method of keeping the sand out of the general drainage 
system is illustrated in Fig. 2. This arrangement of the tile can be used 
whenever the tile in the trap must be placed less than 12 inches below the 
bottom of the sand layer. It can be safely used with only 4 inches of 
sand over the top of the concrete covering of the tile. The concrete cap 
is used to keep the tile from being heaved out of the ground by frost, 
from being rolled out of line when cultivating or raking the traps, and 
to prevent the mixing of the porous material with the sand. The “silt 

186

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE vol. iv. N'o.8

well” is necessary for the collection of the sand that is sure to he washed 
through the porous layer into the tile. The tile under the trap can also 
he flushed out with water, or cleaned with a sectional sewer cleaning rod 
from this opening.

The bottom of the trap should be graded to collect the water near the 
point where the drain will enter the trap. The slope should be at least

CROSS SECTION
OF*
TRAP DRAIN
F/G.2.

1 inch in 5 feet. Do not extend the tile into the trap more than 10 feet 
for traps less than 50 feet in the longest dimension, or 20 feet for longer 
traps.

The depth at which the tile can be installed determines the method 
to use. The sod filter method is the cheaper, costing from $4 to $8 per 
trap for labor and material. The shallow drainage system costs from $8 
to $12 per trap. The question at once arises whether this expense is 
justified. How much are dry traps worth? Added to the value of dry 
traps, you can credit the cost of from 2 to 5 hours labor, which is the 
average annual upkeep cost for unprotected tile drainage in traps. Add 
the cost of lost sand, and the damage to the general drainage system from 
sand clogging, and you get a conservative estimate of $2 per trap, per 
year, as the cost of upkeep. Two dollars per year saving is fine interest 
on an investment of $10, without placing a value on the pleasure of never 
playing from wet traps.

Back Numbers of The Bulletin are available as follows:
Vol. I (1921). Reprint in paper covers; price, $2.25.
Vol. II (1922). June, July, August, October, November, and Decem­
ber numbers available, others exhausted; price, 35c per copy; index in­
cluded.

Vol. Ill (1923). All months available except January and April; 

price, 35c per copy; index included.
Binders; price, 50c per set.

August 21,1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

187

A Periscope for Use in Connection With Blind Holes
By E, F. McRae, Shaughnessy Heights Golf Club, Vancouver, B. C.

We have a blind hole on our course, and 1 have devised a periscope 
for use in connection with this hole which is giving us gratifying results. 
The general plan and important details of the apparatus are illustrated 
in the accompanying sketch.

The height above ground of the upper mirror and the angle at which 
the mirrors are set will of course have to depend upon local conditions, 
but the two mirrors will have to be adjusted to sit at the same angle. 
The top of our periscope box is 15 feet above the surface of the ground, 
and the lower mirror is 41^ feet above the ground, low enough for use by

//V<57Zaf~ 

W/SV7tt>

OPBW/A/G 
TOP M/PPO/?.

W4TBPMOOP 

poop:

cbm/?

7V r/lSTf/V 
BOX 7V POST

STTT/
P//V POP 
M ZZ/yg/VZ/V^. 

/7^/VOAS TOT 
i z^ezizzzizg

TWO 
OPB/V//VG 
7VS££i//&V

P/WBB H£L0 
BY

Z^e^Zi/Z-

S/QP £L£UOT/O/V.  PPP# TPM77QM

Plans of Periscope for Use with Blind Holes

188

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE voi.iv.No.s

a boy in sighting but not so low that a tall man is unable to use it by 
bending down to sight. The fastened supporting post extends 3 feet 
under ground and 3y2 feet above ground. The turning post, to which 
the periscope box is attached, is connected with the fastened post by 
means of a IX^-inch by 40-inch steel pin, and the abutting faces of the 
two posts are fitted with steel bearing-plates. The pin should fit loosely 
enough to allow for a little play so as to permit of ease in turning the 
box. The periscope box is made of 1-inch by 12-inch cedar boards, and 
must be painted black inside. The upper mirror rests on a cleat, and 
the lower mirror on the bottom of the box. Holes may be bored in the 
bottom of the box to permit of drainage, if desired, although we have not 
found this necessary, as the overhang of the roof prevents most of the 
rain from blowing into the box. We, of course, had to have mirrors 
cut to fit our box. In order to preserve the back of the mirrors from 
the effects of dampness, I glued asbestos on the back of the mirrors, with 
waterproof glue, and shellacked the edges. For a turning handle I use 
a shovel handle fastened to the bottom of the box by means of screws.

Our periscope takes in the whole of a 360-yard hole.

Greenkeepers’ Register.—The editors of The Bulletin will be glad to 
receive letters from greenkeepers seeking employment and forward names 
and addresses to clubs in need of greenkeepers. Applicants should indi­
cate their experience, age, and references.

Instructive Golf Holes XI
No. 9 Merion Cricket Club (East Course), Haverford, Pa., 160 to 180 Yards

.
e
e
t

m
o
r
f

w
e
i

V

.
)
e
s
r
u
o
C

t
s
a
E
(

b
u
C

l

t
e
k
c
i
r
C

n
o
l
r
e

M

,
9

.
o
N

e
l
o
H

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
.

n
e
e
r
g

g
n

i
t
t
u
p

f
o

w
e
i
v

p
u
-
e
s
o
l
C

.
)
e
s
r
u
o
C

t
s
a
H

(

b
u
C

l

t
e
k
c
i
r
C

n
o
i
i
e

M

,
9

.
o
N

e
l
o
H

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
eq

o o © © 
O O © © 
O- o © © 
© « © © 
© t* io m 
© b- t- t-

o 
o 
<2
co 
w 
co

o  o  o  o
o  o  o  o
o  o  o  o
o'  in  o*  o'
o m uo 
ci  ci  ci
co 

o
o 
o' 
o 
M

o 
o 
<o

o 
ci

o 
o

o 
o 
C3
ao 
co

w

*5 
5H 
O

c 
s

to

g J3

*1 
x: ® 
£o

® 09

*5 ’o

O O

5 6

03 00 b- O

s

)
d
e
u
n
i
t
n
o
C
(
—
N
O
I
T
A
I
C
O
S
S
A
^

F
L
O
G

S
E
T
A
T
S

D
E
T
I
N
U

 
 
 
)
d
e
u
n
i
t
n
o
C
(
—
N
O
I
T
A
I
C
O
S
S
A

F
L
O
G

S
E
T
A
T
S

D
E
T
I
N
U

o 
o 
6 
o 
o

o 
o 
o
c

ci

c 2

o o

£

c!

C

£ O 10 
©•^•04 
fi * ’

S

£
<X)

 
 
 
­
n
o
i

p
m
a
h
C

f
l
o
G

r
u
e
t
a
m
A

h
t
h
g
i

E
-
y
t
n
e
w
T

e
h
t

e
r
e
h
w

,

b
u
C

l

t
e
k
c
i
r
C

n
o
l
r
e

M

e
h
t

f
o

e
s
u
o
h

b
u

l
c

e
h
T

.
7
2

o
t

0
2

r
e
b
m
e
t
p
e
S

d
e
g
a
t
s

e
b

l
l
i

w

s
e
t
a
t
S

d
e
t
i

n
U

e
h
t

i
o

p

i

h
s

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
August 2i, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

195

A Serviceable Inexpensive Fairway Sprinkler
By R. S. Ludington, President, Wenatchee (Wash.) Golf and Country Club

Through the courtesy of Mr. AV. AV. Baker, chairman of the green 
committee of the AValla AValla Country Club, our club was furnished 
with a sketch and dimensions of what we are pleased to call our “AValla 
AValla Sprinkler.” Mr. Baker has consented to my presenting to the 
readers of The Bulletin a description of this very satisfactory and in­
expensive sprinkling device, which he worked out to meet his require­
ments, and which, with his approval, we have abundantly copied, for we 
now have 18 of these sprinklers in night and day service on our course.

Sketch of the Walla Walla Fairway Sprinkler.

The sprinkler consists of 3 twirlers about 6 feet above the ground 
fed by water through 1-inch galvanized iron pipe supported about 18 
inches above ground by 3 old-style automobile wheels (with old casings) 
and by a %-inch galvanized-iron-pipe leg on a 12-foot handle of 44-inch 
pipe extending from the cross at the middle of the stretch ot 1-inch pipe. 
The center twirler, on a line with the handle, is advanced in front and 
6 feet beyond the line of the end twirlers to p< rmit the attendants to 
reach the handle and move the sprinkler about without getting wet. I he 
supply hose can be attached at either end or at the eentt r twirler. AVe 
have found that a greater reach of sprinkling can be obtained with the 
hose attached at the end. This arrangement also permits of the us> of 
%-inch pipe in the handle and for the center twirler, whereas otherwise 
it would be necessary to use 1-inch pipe for these parts.

The underground supply pipes on our course are down the center of 
our fairways and are provided with risers every 100 feet. Probably 
risers every 150 feet would be ample, since, with 80-pounds pressure and 
50 feet of hose, we actually cover a circle 240 feet in diameter without 
disconnecting the hose, by occasionally moving the sprinkler.

For the axles of the wheels we use 11/o-inch galvanized iron pipe, on 
cither end of which are reducers to 1 inch, which reducers hold the 
wheels in place. The inner wheel is off center, the cross being at the 
center and the whetl to the side of the cross.

The material used in the construction of a single set of sprinklers 

is as follows:

196 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Voi.iv.No.8
i ii 'ini nii!
3 old rimless automobile wheels with old casings and no inner tubes, 
l^-inch galvanized iron pipe; 3 pieces each long enough to serve as 
axles for the wheels, extending on each side of hub far enough so that 
l^-inch by 1-inch reducers may be firmly attached to the ends to hold 
the wheel in place. A total of about 17 inches of li^-inch pipe is 
required.

1-inch galvanized iron pipe; 1 piece 191/2 feet long and 1 piece 20 
feet long, to serve as connections between the three wheels; 2 pieces each 
4 feet long, to serve as extensions beyond the two outside wheels, for the 
twirlers; total, 47i/o feet.

•%-inch galvanized iron pipe; 1 piece 12 feet long, to serve as handle; 
1 piece 6 feet long, to serve as extension to supply middle twirler; 3 
pieces each 4 feet long, to serve as risers for the twirlers; 1 piece 10 
inches long, to serve as supporting leg for the handle; total, 30 feet and 
10 inches.

A battery of fairway sprinklers in operation at the Wenatchee Golf and Country Club.

All pipe fully threaded at both ends.
Galvanized iron fittings as follows: li/2-ineh by 1-ineh reducers, 6 
(1 or holding wheels); 1-inch by %-ineh teeSj 2 (for end risers); 1-inch 
*• /4-iiK‘h cross, 1 (at center) ; 1-inch plug, 1 (at end opposite hose 
\ii,in<<. ’a11) ’ t° ’%-ineh reducer, 1 (for hose connection); %-inch 
*1* ,eiS/I'!t L " P^gs), 2; %-inch union, 1 (for foot of leg);
3 
4 1,11 1 P ng 1 (for foot of leg); 1-ineh short nipple, 1 (to connect cross 
• u lefuur) • 4-inch nipple, 1 (for hose connection).
.1 i 4 U-( 1 *lnay be used for the foot of the leg, but we find a 
u^^t < union much more satisfactory when it is desired to open the 

piping m order to drain it.

100 feet of heavy galvanized iron wire for stavs.
%-ineh twirlers, 3.

win* cutter 11 asseni,,'’n"> - P’Pe wrenches and 1 combination pliers and 

the whetlJ’'r'.''''o’ 
easily oiled -in 
well lubricated* ** Pr 18 muc‘b more easily moved with the axles 

°f axle grease should be put on the axles before
/ le reducers screwed up, as the axles are not

our higher western prices, our sprinklers cost us complete on 

August 2i, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

197

the course about $15 each. Where freight rates and other items are not 
so high the price should be very much less. The 2 pipe wrenches, and the 
pliers for the guy wire, are the only tools needed in assembling the 
sprinkler. The first sprinkler we built had specially made iron wheels 
for 1-inch axles, each of which cost us $3 or $4 here; but this cost of 
wheels we practically eliminated by using old Ford wheels with old cas­
ings costing us next to nothing. The substitution of Ford for iron wheels 
is our modification of the sprinkler.

When not in use, the sprinklers can be run off in the rough, and 
should a ball stop under one it is not difficult to pull or push the sprinkler 
far enough out of the way to permit the ball to be played. Likewise 
should a ball stop under a sprinkler in use on the fairway, the sprinkler 
can be moved to permit playing the ball without cutting off the water or 
getting wet.

The advantages of this sprinkler are simplicity of design, cheapness 
of construction, ease of moving,- large area watered at each setting, ease 
of keeping in order and repair, and the fact that less frequent connections 
of the hose have to be made, or shutting off of the water, since with each 
connection of the hose the sprinkler can be moved from six to ten times, 
depending on the width of the fairway, before it is necessary to make 
another connection. This saves the time of greenkeepers and the wear 
on valves and hose, and permits the maximum use of water, and also 
enables one man to look after the watering of more fairways than does 
any other device within our means that has come' to our attention.

Twenty-Eighth Women’s Amateur Golf Championship of 
the United States

The competition for the Women’s Amateur Golf Championship of the 
United States, open to all women amateur golfers belonging to clubs which 
are members of the Uniteel States Golf Association, and to those foreigners 
visiting this country who may be invitee! by the Executive Committee of 
the Association, wifi be playeel on the course of the Rhode Island Country 
Club, Providence, R. I., commencing on Monday, September 1, when the 
Robert Cox Cup and four medals will be competed for under the Rules 
of the United States Golf Association. The winner of the competition 
shall be the Champion Woman Amateur Golfer for the year and the 
Robert Cox Cup shall be held for that year by the club from which the 
winner shall have entered.

The winner shall receive a gold medal, the runner-up a silver medal, 

and the other semi-finalists bronze medals.

Competitors shall enter for the championship through the secretaries 
of their respective clubs. An entrance fee of $5 must accompany each 
entry and must be received not later than 5 p. m. on Wednesday, August 
20, at 110 East 42d Street, New York City, checks to be drawn to the 
order of the United States Golf Association.

In addition to the present qualifications, entries will be received only 
from women players having handicaps of 1 to 8. Any player whose name 
does not appear on the present Women’s Sectional Handicap Lrnts 
who desires to compete in the championship, must submit to Mrs. 11. 
Arnold Jackson, Patterson Avenue, Greenwich, Conn., before August lot i, 
1924, five best scores made during the current playing season over hei 
club’s course, duly certified to by the president or secretary ot Jiei clu >, 

198 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Voi.iv.No.s

with a statement by the certifying officer of the par of such course. Upon 
the basis of the par and scores submitted, the player will be rated and 
notified at least one week prior to championship.

All entries are subject to the approval of the Executive Committee 
of the Association, and any entry may be rejected by the Committee. All 
disputes shall be settled by the Executive Committee, whose decision shall 
be final.

Any player who fails to appear at the tee within fifteen minutes of 
the time she is called to play by the Committee shall be disqualified unless 
reasons satisfactory to the officials in charge of the tournament be given.
Any person paying her entrance money shall be considered thereby 
to have submitted herself to the Rules of the Association, both as to re­
strictions enjoined and penalties imposed. On these conditions alone she 
is entitled to enjoy all the privileges and advantages of the Association 
competition.

Entries for the special events are opened only to contestants entered 
for the championship events. This applies also to the entries of women 
in the mixed foursome handicap.

All score cards in the medal play rounds must be kept in strict ac­
cordance with “Rule 5, Special Rules for Stroke Competitions.” Com­
petitors failing to comply with the requirements of this rule will be 
disqualified.

The privileges of the club house and the grounds are extended to all 
competitors in the championship for one week previous to the tournament.
The pairing and time of starting of each pair in the qualifying round 

will be announced through the press.

Monday, September 1. 10 a. m. Medal Play Round. 18 holes best 
32 scores to qualify. A prize is offered by the Association for the lowest 
score m this competition. In tbe event of a tie or ties for the last place 
on Monday, the contestants so tieel shall continue to play until one of 
them shall have gained a lead by strokes at any hole.

Tuesday, September 2. 10 a. m. Women’s Championship First 
Match Play Round. 18 holes. 1.30 p. m. Match Against Women’s Par. 
18 holes. Prize presented by the Rhode Island Country Club. Entries 
close for this event at 1 p. m.

Wednesday, September 3. 10 a. m. Women’s Championship, 
Second Match Play Round. 18 holes. 1.30 p. m. Best Ball Foursome 
Scratch. 18 holes. Prize presenteel by the Rhode Island Country Club. 
Entries close for this event at 1 p. m.

Thursday, September 4. 10 a. m. Women’s Championship, Third 
Match Play Round. 18 holes. 1.30 p. m. Mixeel Foursome, Medal Play 
Handicap. 18 holes. Best gross and net prizes presenteel by the Rhode 
Island Country Club. Entries can be made at the time of the event.

Friday, September 5. 10 a. m. Women’s Championship, Semi-Final 

Match Play Round. 18 holes.

Saturday, September 6. 10 a. m. Women’s Championship, Final 

Match Play Round. 36 holes.

Each entry for the Handicap Event must be accompanied by certified 
handicap at the' player’s home club, and the scratch score from which such 
handicap is made.

In all special events, players must leave the first tec by 3 p. m.

CORNELIUS S. LEE, Secretary.

August 2i, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

19$)

Twenty-Eighth Amateur Golf Championship of the United 
States

The competition for the Amateur Golf Championship of the United 
States, open to all golfers whose names appear on the Official 1924 Rating 
List of the United States Golf Association, anel to those foreigners visiting 
this country who may be invited by the Executive Committee of the As­
sociation, will be played on the course of the Merion Cricket Club, Haver­
ford, Pa., beginning Saturday, September 20, when the Havemeyer Cup 
and four medals will be competed for under the rules of the United States 
Golf Association. The winner of the competition shall be the Champion 
Amateur Golfer for the year, and the cup shall be held for that year by 
the club from which the winner shall have entered.

The winner shall receive a gold medal, the runner-up a silver medal, 
and the other semi-finalists bronze medals. The player making the lowest 
score in the 36-hoIe qualifying round shall receive a special prize.

All eligible competitors shall enter directly for the championship and 
not through the secretaries of their respective clubs. An entrance fee of 
$5 must accompany each entry and must be delivered to the United States 
Golf Association, *110 East 42d Street, New York City, not later than 
•Saturday, September 6, 1924, checks to be drawn to the order of the 
United States Golf Association.

The Eligibility List of the United States Golf Association is compiled 
from the tournament records of the various players throughout the United 
States. Players whose names are in the official list are entitled to com­
pete in the'Amateur Championship of this Association. Any amateur 
golfer who belongs to a member club of the United States Golf Association 
may submit his entry to j\Ir. J. D. Standish, Jr., Chairman, Eligibility 
List Committee, 110 East 42nd Street, New York City, on or before August 
20, 1924. The ability of all such entrants will be investigated and the 
player notified as to his acceptance or refusal at least one week before 
the championship. Positively no entry will be so considered which is not 
in the hands of the Eligibility List Committee on or before the above 
mentioned date.

All entries are subject to the approval of the Executive Committee of 
the Association, and any entry may be rejected by the Committee. All 
disputes shall be settled by the Executive Committee, whose decision shall 
be final.

Any player who fails to appear at the tee within fifteen minutes of ‘ 
the time he is called to play by the Committee shall be disqualified unless 
reasons satisfactory to the officials in charge of the tournament be given.
Any person paying his entrance money shall be considered thereby to 
have submitted himself to the rules of the Association both as to restric­
tions enjoined and penalties imposed. On these conditions alone he is 
entitled to enjoy all the privileges and advantages of the Association 
competition.

All score cards in the medal play round must be kept in strict ac­
cordance with “Rule 5, Special Rules for Stroke Competitions.” Com­
petitors failing to ccinply with the requirements of this rule will be dis­
qualified.

The privileges of the club house and the grounds are extended to all 
competitors in the championship for one week previous to the tournament.
Th" pairing and starting time of each pair in the first qualifying 

round of 18 holes will be annouced through the press.

200 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE voi.iv,No.8

Saturday, September 20. First Qualifying Round. (18 holes.)
Monday, September 22. Second Qualifying Round. (18 holes.) 
Lowest 32 aggregate scores for first and second qualifying rounds to 
qualify.

Tuesday, September 23. 9 a. m. Match Play Round. (36 holes.)
Wednesday, September 24. 9.30 a. m. Match Play Round. (36 

holes.)

Thursday, September 25. 10.00 a. m. Match Play Round. (36 

holes.)

Friday, September 26. 10.00 a. m. Match Play Round (semi-final). 

(36 holes.)

Saturday, September 27. 10.30 a. m. Final Match Play Round. 

(36 holes.)

In the event of a tie or ties for the 32nd place on Monday, the 
contestants so tied shall continue to play until one of them shall have 
gained a lead by strokes at any hole.

In the event of a halved match, the players shall continue to play 
until one of them shall have won a hole, which shall determine the winner 
of the match.

Some U. S. Golf Association Decisions on the Rules of Golf
Question.—Four-ball match. A and B against C and D. All four 
balls on putting green, D’s ball being farthest from the hole. D putts, 
his ball striking A’s ball, knocking it into the hole. A claims to have 
holed on his last stroke and refuses to replace his ball, as provided in 
Rule 2 of Special Rules for Four-Ball Matches. Who is right ?

Answer.—The rule you cite covers the point you bring up. A has 
no basis for his claim that he holed out on his last stroke, and under the 
rules must replace his ball.

Question.—Is there any United States Golf Association rule against 
using drivers with iron heads? I have been informed that iron clubs are 
only permitted on tees of short holes. Please tell me whether there is any 
restriction on the use of iron clubs on tees of long holes.

Answer.—There is no United States Golf Association rule nor any 
rule in any other association that restricts a player in the use of any club 
he sees fit to use in making any shot. One of the prerogatives of a player 
is that he shall have his choice of the implements with which he wishes, 
to play the game.

Question.—In a handicap match tournament A had to concede three 
strokes to B. Their match was halved. Three strokes fall to be taken 
at the 1st, 7th, and 14th holes. A and B agreed to decide the match by 
playing the 19th hole on even terms. Were they within their right in 
making this arrangement?

Answer.—Yes. In the absence of any conditions for playing halved 
matches (see preface to “Decisions by the Rules of Golf Committee”) 
the players‘are at liberty to make their own arrangements.

New Member Clubs of the Green Section.— Quebec Golf Club, Quebec; 
Los Serranos Country Club, Long Beach, Calif.; Homestead Farm Golf 
Club, Bethany, Pa.; Grove City Country Club, Grove City, Pa.; East­
ridge Club, Lincoln, Nebr.; Seabright Lawn Tennis & Cricket Club, Sea- 
bright, N. J.; Monterrey Country Club, Monterrey, Mexico.

August 2i, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

201

f,. . - 

' 

■ 

~ 

" - 

.......- —

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

All questions sent to the Green Committee will be answered in a letter to 
the writer as promptly as possible. The more interesting of these questions, 
with concise answers, will appear in this column each month. If your experi­
ence leads you to disagree with any answer given in this column, it is your 
privilege and duty to write to the Green Committee.

While most of the answers are of general application, please bear in 
mind that each recommendation is intended specifically for the locality des­
ignated at the end of the question.

--------- —----  ----  . 

.. 

------ j

1. Clover for Southern Fairways in Winter.—We find that a 
number of golf courses in the South have clover on their fairways so 
that they may have a green turf during the winter and early spring before 
Bermuda starts to grow, and we are thinking of seeding our fairways with 
clover and Bermuda mixed. If you think this is a good idea, kindly ad­
vise us what kind of clover should be planted and when it should be seeded. 
(South Carolina.)

Answer.—Spotted bur clover is probably the commonest clover which 
appears in fairways in winter in your locality, but in addition there is 
more or less white clover and native Carolina clover. Bur clover is best 
seeded in early fall or as soon as the hot weather of summer is over. If 
hulled seed is used, it should be sown at the rate of not less than 15 
pounds of seed per acre; if seed in the bur is sown, it will require 5 or 6 
bushels of seed per acre. After the seed is sown it should be lightly 
harrowed in. The plant is an annual, but when once established it re­
seeds itself naturally from year to year. Bur clover is greatly helped by 
the addition of lime to the soil, and indeed it is commonly found in soil 
where there is a good deal of either lime or marl. To succeed with bur 
clover the soil should be inoculated with the proper bacteria for this plant. 
This inoculation may be effected by the use of either the pure culture sold 
in glass containers, or the soil from a field already growing bur clover, 
alfalfa, sweet clover, or yellow trefoil. The soil-transfer method is more 
dependable than the pure-culture method. In the soil-transfer method, 
soil from th’e top 8 inches of a field growing bur clover, alfalfa, sweet 
clover, or yellow trefoil should be broadcast at the rate of 500 pounds 
per acre over the area to bq planted. On account of the expense involved, 
it is generally advised to sow but a small patch the first year, which should 
supply abundant soil to use as inoculation for more extensive plantings. 
Often when seed in the bur is sown there are enough bacteria in the dust 
on the burs to insure inoculation.

2. Improving the Drainage of a Green Flanked by a Hill and of 
a Green on a Clay Subsoil.—One of our greens is flanked by a steep 
ii 1. Its surface drainage is good. Two years ago in the fall it was in 
very poor condition. Last spring it was given the same treatment as the 
o ier greens with regard to weeding and top-dressing. It did not respond 
o this treatment, and as it became thickly infested with crab grass we 
decided to do nothing further with it that season but to returf it the 
° .sPrin"- Late last fall we plowed it, removed the top soil, re­
modelled it, and covered it with a fairly thick dressing of well-rotted 
manure. The green is not at the base of the hill, there being a 5-foot 
errace m front of it, and the natural drainage should therefore be good; 

202 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE voi.iv.No.8

nevertheless it certainly gets much seepage from the hill behind it. The 
high point of the green is directly in the back center and in a line with 
the crown of the hill, and there is therefore a perceptible fall both to 
the right and the left. In view of this we have thought that, rather than 
to lay a network of tile underneath the green it would suffice to lay one 
line of tile parallel with the back of the green, draining to both right and 
left.

Another of our greens is built on a pure clay foundation. The sur­
face drainage can be easily corrected, although there are now some low 
places. The turf has showed signs of lack of proper drainage, but on 
account of the character of the subsoil we are afraid that subdrainage is 
imperative. The turf is by far the best we have on any of our greens; 
in fact, it is a beautiful piece of bent turf; and for that reason we hesi­
tate to disturb the surface any more than necessary. (Pennsylvania.)

Answer.—AVe feel sure from what you say with regard to the hillside 
green that the trouble is due to poor drainage. The wettest place on a 
hill is often about half way down the side and not at its base. At that 
point water will continually seep out from the high ground in the rear; 
this we have noticed on many golf courses. The best remedy is to cut 
a grassy hollow’ back of the green, say 4 or more feet in depth, sloping 
the hollow so that it drains any seepage water that comes out of the hill, 
around the green. The same results can probably be obtained by the use 
of tile, if it is not desirable to construct the grassy hollow. If tile is 
used, we would advise sinking the tile at least 4 or 5 feet below the surface 
in order to be sure of catching any seepage water that is working toward 
the green. We see no reason why you should not take it to the right and 
left, as you suggest; in that case there ’would be no necessity for connect­
ing the two drains.

The drainage of the other green you mention would probably be best 
effected by running two or three lines of 4-inch tile under the lower parts 
of the green. If care is used in taking up the turf, installing the drain, 
and relaying the turf, the green should not be out of play for any con­
siderable time.

3. How to Seed New Greens.—A difference of opinion regarding 
the seeding of a new green has come up in our club. Our old plan was 
to level the green as truly as possible, seed on the top, and rake the seed 
in very lightly and carefully. We only raked a very little, so as to get 
the surface and the seed slightly mixed, and then rolled it. A new plan 
has been suggested, namely, to seed and then cover with anywhere from 
i/.-inch to 4 inches of eartli. The old-timers’ view is that the seed 'would 
never grow up through this and that the seed should be as near the surface 
as possible. (New Brunswick.)

Answer.—In seeding a new green, the point to which most attention 
should be given is the even distribution of the seed. We recommend that 
3 pounds of good bent seed be used in seeding each 1,000 square feet of 
surface. This is regarded as a sufficiently heavy rate if the seed is sown 
properly. It is usually much easier to get an even distribution by mixing 
the seed with top soil, as this gives a larger bulk, which is more easily 
distributed evenly than a small bulk. The late Fred AV. Taylor, of Phila­
delphia. found it possible to get uniform and highly satisfactory stands of 
mixed bent grass on greens by mixing the seed with shredded'peat moss. 
He used a very small quantity, probably not more than 1 pound to 3,000 
square feet. His method was, however, expensive and the advantages 
gained by it were not in proportion to the cost. If the seed is sown alone

August 2i, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

203

—that is, not mixed with top soil—it is easier to get a uni­
form stand by covering the seed evenly with top soil, say ap­
proximately 1 cubic yard to 5,000 square feet; but this, of 
course, is expensive, and unnecessary, provided rakes are used carefully 
for covering. Seed may be simply raked into the soil and sufficiently 
covered by the use of ordinary garden rakes or by an implement known 
as a weeder. The point to bear in mind in this case is to avoid the 
dragging of the seed into rows. There is also another point to watch 
carefully, and that is the watering of a newly sown green. Heavy water­
ing has a tendency to wash the seed into waves and thus produce a very 
uneven stand. Water very slightly, simply enough to keep the surface 
moist, until the young plants have made a good start.

4- Grasses for Winter Greens in the South.—We expect to sow 
winter grass in the fall and wish you would give us an idea as to the best 
mixture to use. (Georgia.)

Answer.—Our information indicates that best results are obtained 
m the South by sowing a mixture consisting of 4 pounds Kentucky blue­
grass, 1 pound reclaimed redtop, and Vt-pound white clover, particularly 
inasmuch as the bluegrass and white clover are immune to brown-patch. 
It is possible that in Georgia you will not be troubled much with brown- 
patch in the winter, although this disease causes considerable damage to 
greens in the winter’ farther south, as around New Orleans and in southern 
Florida. If you are not troubled with brown-patch in winter, you will 
obtain best results with redtop alone, and next best results with Italian
rye-grass alone, although both of these grasses suffer severely from brown- 
patch. We do not think it well to mix these two grasses, as they make 
somewhat different putting conditions, the rye-grass being a coarser grass 
than, the redtop. Do not use fescue, as it will not do well under vour 
conditions. White clover will grow nicely in vour location in the winter. 
You may, however, not desire it from a putting standpoint. All of these 
grasses should disappear early in the summer, giving place to your Ber­
muda grass for your summer greens. In order that these winter grasses 
,n?y have a fair start they should be seeded, in your latitude, about the 
middle of September. So that you may know definitely which grass is 
best for winter greens under your conditions it would be advisable for 
you to experiment with the different seedings, sowing a few of vour 
greens to the Kentucky bluegrass and white clover mixture, a few to 
redtop, and a few to Italian rye-grass.

a Eradicating Poison Ivy and Poison Sumac.—Please let us know 
nm to exterminate poison ivy and poison sumac from our golf course 
We are bothered very much with these pests around the fence lines and 
m the brush section of some of the small gullies (Illinois )

most, ril|,i,] and effective way to deal with small iso­
lated clumps of these plants is simply to pull or grub them out, taking 
rare to remove thoroughly the running underground parts, since pieces 
of the plants left in the ground will soon produce another crop of plants 
rhe plants are also killed by frequent mowing carried out persistently so 
as to prevent the roots from developing green growth above ground. Small 
patches may also be killed by covering them with tarred or other heavy 
paper to the complete exclusion of light. The edges of the paper should 
be either pegged or well weighted down. Another good method, especi­
ally for killing vines of poison ivy on fence posts and on trees, is to cut 
the poison ivy below the ground and then saturate the soil around the cut 
bases of the plants with salt brine. A second dose of brine should be

204 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vol. iv. No. 8

applied about two weeks later if the roots show signs of putting forth 
new growth. Thorough wetting with kerosene oil, applied with a spray­
ing pump or sprinkler, will kill the plants after one or two applications. 
The effectiveness of the treatment will be increased if the soil is disked 
or cut up slightly, so as to expose the roots to the action of the kerosene. 
As kerosene will injure or destroy all vegetation, it is, how’ever, not safe 
to use around valuable trees and shrubs. One of the most useful methods 
of killing the leaves of these plants (and if the leaves are killed and not 
allowed to develop, the entire plant will die) is to spray them with a 
saturated salt solution prepared at the rate of 3y2 pounds of common salt 
per gallon of water. For this purpose the spray should be applied as a 
fine, driving mist, which may be done by use of an air-pressure sprayer. 
Small, inexpensive hand sprayers suitable for this work are now on the 
marktt. As soon as a new crop of leaves appears the plants should be 
sprayed again. If this spraying method is persisted in, the plants will 
gradually disappear. Crude sulfuric acid also may be used, applying a 
few drops of the chemical to the bases of the plants at intervals of a week 
until they die. This may be done conveniently by means of a copper 
spring-bottom oil can, such as machinists use. Care must be taken to 
avoid spilling the chemical on the hands or clothing, as it is a dangerous 
caustic. In undertaking this work of eradication, the wearing of overalls 
and heavy gauntleted gloves is recommended. In case of contact with 
poison ivy or poison sumac, infection may be avoided by the use of a 
grain-alcohol wash to which lead acetate, a chemical obtainable at any 
drug store, is added, followed with a brisk treatment with strong soap and 
water. If these chemicals are not available, however, the affected skin 
should be washed thoroughly and as soon as possible with a heavy lather, 
preferably in running water. Hard scrubbing of the skin with a stiff 
brush should be avoided.

6. Fertilizing to Improve Fairways.—The base soil of our fairways 
is heavy clay and in our opinion inclined to sourness. The top soil is very 
thin and rests on top of the clay in an entirely separate stratum. Much 
of the fairway is covered by moss, in which there is some grass growing 
and a considerable amount of clover. Two years ago plant lime was liber­
ally used for the purpose of sweetening, but there is considerable doubt as 
to whether any benefit was derived from this. We have had no practical 
experience in the use of ammonium sulfate, but our professional raises the 
point that this chemical will so kill or drive out the clover and moss that 
any benefit to the grass would not bring the surface to as satisfactory a 
playing condition as now exists. It may occur to you that our difficulties 
are a result of a basic condition which should be remedied by the use of 
sand or other substance to break the clay, and which would involve con­
siderable expense. Because we are using leased land under such condi­
tions as to make our centinued use of the property uncertain, the club 
does not feel justified in undertaking expensive improvements. The policy 
of our green committee is to secure the best practical results from the 
course as it. stands. In your opinion, from the facts given you, should 
ammonium sulfate be used, and, if so, should the mixture be heavier or 
lighter than that recommended by the Green Section? (Ohio.)

Answer.—We judge from your letter that the soil of your fairways 
is poor and also that there is a considerable amount of moss on it at the 
present time. As for using sulfate of ammonia under such conditions, we 
have not the slightest doubt but that an application of it at this time of 
the year (August 20) or a little later would be helpful for fall growth;

August 21,1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

205

Ammonium sulfate is an excellent quick-acting fertilizer, but unless it is 
applied carefully during the hot summer months it is likely to scorch the 
grass. In the summer 1 pound to iy2 pounds ammonium sulfate to 1,000 
square feet can be used with reasonable safety. In the fall or spring 
double this quantity is recommended. As for doing away with moss and 
white clover, there is some evidence that ammonium sulfate will so pro­
mote the growth of grass as practically to dispose of moss, but it is only 
after repeated applications that it has this effect on white clover. With­
out knowing more specifically of your conditions, we would advise an ap­
plication of ammonium sulfate at this time of the year (August 20) or 
possibly as late as September 15, and an application of bone meal at ’the 
rate of approximately 500 pounds per acre in the early spring, about the 
first of March. Since you do not own the land you occupy and do not 
wish to go to much expense in the matter of permanent improvement, top­
dressing with compost would appear to be out of the question. However, 
if you can get well-rotted manure for top-dressing this winter, we think 
it might be a profitable investment. The bone meal will go far toward 
improving your turf, however, and with a little ammonium sulfate this 
fall and a liberal application of bone meal next spring you should have 
reasonably good turf for next season.

7. Controlling White Clover and Chickweed with Ammonium 
Sulfate.—This season our greens are badly infested with chickweed and 
white clover. We have been using ammonium sulfate on the greens at 
intervals of three weeks. We use 3y2 pounds for a 4,000-foot green. Is 
this strong enough to discourage the clover and chickweed? Last year 
we used it stronger but it burnt the grass a little, which, however, soon 
recovered. It also burnt the clover and chickweed. (Pennsylvania.)

Answer.—We regard the rate you have used, 3y2 pounds for 4,000 
square feet, as a very light application. Our method of applying am­
monium sulfate is to mix it with well-screened compost composed of° loam 
or clay loam, well-rotted manure, and sand at the rate of approximately 
12 to 15 pounds of ammonium sulfate to a cubic yard of compost. This 
cubic yard of compost is sufficient for top-dressing 5,000 square feet of 
green. In other words, by this method we apply approximately 2y> to 3 
pounds of ammonium sulfate to each 1,000 square feet of surface Where 
we can do so, we make applications of ammonium sulfate mixed with com­
post every month during the growing season. By applying ammonium 
sulfate mixed with compost and watering the greens thoroughly after the 
application is made, we have had practically no trouble from burnin- 
During the hot weather we use only approximately 1U pounds of am­
monium sulfate to each 1,000 square feet. We realize that ammonium 
sulfate will burn grass especially in the summer, if exceedingly great 
care is not taken. V e believe that the continued use of ammonium sul­
fate in the manner here suggested will go far toward discouraging clover 
and chickweed, although this method is at times very slow in brin<nn- 
about desired results.

8. Fertilizing and Cutting Greens Newly Planted with Creeping 
Bent Stolons.—We are preparing to plant a new green with creeping 
bent stolons from our nursery and should like to have vour advice as to 
*rowthtlnflnd?ana1)'llZlng °f graSS the stolons have started new

Answer.—For greens planted in the late summer or fall, one arntli- 
cation of a compost top-dressing containing ammonium sulfate a short 
time after planting the stolons, should be sufficient for the remainder of 

206 

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE voi.iv, No. s

the year. If you have no compost for top-dressing, use good top soil. 
Top-dressing is something which is absolutely essential. We find in 
general that at the time of planting, a covering of approximately U/2 
cubic yards, or somewhat less, of top-dressing to 1,000 square feet, is quite 
satisfactory. This should give a covering of approximately %-inch. For 
top-dressing after planting, 1 cubic yard to 3,000 to 5,000 square feet is 
all that is needed. For full information regarding the use of compost 
top-dressing containing ammonium sulfate, read the article on page 111 
of the May, 1924, number of The Bulletin.

Stolons, after being planted, should be cut before the grass attains 

a height of more than 2 inches.

9. Replacing Patches of Fescue and Renovating Bare Spots with 
Creeping Bent Stolons.—We have a problem to work out in regard to 
our patched greens. Could the fescue patches be successfully filled with 
creeping bent by using bent stolons? (Rhode Island.)

Answer.—We have been able to convert bare spots, thin spots, and 
poor turf into good creeping bent turf by punching stolons of a good 
strain of creeping bent into the spots by the means of a dibble, or by 
chopping up the stolons, spreading them over the surface, and then cover­
ing as in the case of new plantings. When planted in this way the in­
troduced bent stolons should in time replace the fescue entirely. This 
work should be done, in your latitude, the latter part of August or the 
first of September, and, if possible, the greens should be withheld from 
play until the following May, especially if the cut stolons are scattered 
on the surface. If the stolons are simply dibbled in, the greens may be 
kept in play if this is absolutely necessary. The new growth from* the 
stolons should be cut before it is over 2 inches high.

10. Length of Time a Creeping Bent Nursery May Be Expected 
to Be Useful.—Is a nursery in its second year as good as one in its first 
year ? (Pennsylvania.)

Answer.—A nursery in its second year does not provide as good 
material as in its first year. Plant the runners in the manner recommend­
ed in the March, 1924, Bulletin, preferably in the fall or late summer. 
Use the material thus developed the next August or September—that is, 
one year from the time of planting the original row. No part of the old 
row should be left. A nursery one year old has served its usefulness, and 
if material is desired for next year’s planting a new nursery should be 
started. This is an important matter.

11. Failure of Plants to Develop from Stolons in Vegetative 
Propagation.—The latter part of May we got in enough stolons to enable 
us to plant at that time 200 linear feet of nursery row. With careful 
cultivating, weeding and watering they have by this time (September) 
developed into a matted row from 2^ to 3 feet wide. The several ex­
periments that we have made in vegetative planting of these stolons wouid 
indicate that a very small percentage of the nodes make plants. Is this 
due to some fault on our part, or to the fact that the grass is not sufficient­
ly mature? The variety of stolons we received produces a very fine stem 
with short internodes. (New York.)

Answer.—Doubtless the small percentage of the nodes that make 
plants must have been due to the bad condition of the material when it 
reached you. Under favorable circumstances practically every joint sends 
up a shoot. Your growth of 2i/2 feet to 3 feet wide‘since planting the 
latter part of May is a good growth.

12. Yellowing of Turf from Poor Drainage.—Some of our greens 

August 21, 1924 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

207

look so much greener than others. On some of the greens the grass has 
a yellowish appearance. What is the cause of this? What treatment 
would you suggest to correct this condition? (Missouri.)

Answer.—We’ are unable to determine, from your letter, the cause 
of your trouble, but it is possible that these greens have poor drainage, 
either poor surface drainage or poor under drainage, and possibly both. 
Poor drainage almost invariably causes yellowing, and the only method of 
overcoming this yellowing is to improve the drainage. We have found 
that top-dressing greens with good compost to which a little ammonium 
sulfate is added is an excellent method of keeping grass in good condition.
13. Weeds in Bent Greens ; Necessity for Their Prompt Removal. 
—We have five bent greens coming along nicely but they have a great 
many weeds from the manure we used in building them. We have been 
■weeding these out, but are wondering whether there would be any danger 
in our letting them go, expecting that cutting and the growing bent will 
crowd them out. (Ohio.)

Answer.—We would advise you by all means to keep your greens 
thoroughly weeded. The growing bent will not crowd all of them out. 
Cutting will prevent a few kinds of weeds from producing seed, but even 
in the presence of such weeds the bent can not make its best growth. 
There is great danger of the weeds going to seed at any time and causing 
endless trouble.

14. Preparation of the Soil in Returfing Old Greens with Creep­
ing Bent Stolons.—We have one green of creeping bent planted vegeta­
tively last fall, and it is indeed beautiful. It is our desire to convert all 
of our greens to this grass as rapidly as possible. Due to limitations in 
finances we have decided to do this on our old green beds without re­
building them. Of course we expect to work up the surface of the greens 
in preparing for the planting of stolons and add such fertilizer as necessary. 
We should state in this connection that we have never been able to produce 
good greens on our soil from seeding. All of the soil in the greens, with 
the exception of some humus material and in some instances a little sand, 
is from our own course, and consists of a very heavy clay with very little 
top soil. None of our greens are tiled, but the surface drainage is pretty 
well provided for. (Kentucky.)

Answer.—Creeping bent can be successfully grown on clay soil of 
low fertility provided top-dressings of fairly good compost are applied at 
relatively frequent intervals. In your case we have the following sug­
gestions to make: (1) Mix well-rotted manure and bone meal thoroughly 
with the top soil at the rate of about 1 ton of the former and 10 pounds 
of the latter to each 1,000 square feet. (2) If your top soil contains an 
appreciable proportion of commercial humus, this should be stripped off 
the green and replaced with new soil. In a great many cases, commercial 
humus has given very unsatisfactory results. (3) Above all things see 
that your greens are well drained, both on the surface and below. It is 
not always necessary to install tile, but good drainage is a necessity in 
all cases.

Meditations of a Peripatetic Golfer

If the turf on your fairways is not as good as that on nearby lawns and 

pastures, your greenkeeping methods are faulty.

On acid soils the bents and the fescues are the best of turf grasses.

“A stitch in time saves nine.” Yes, but you don’t sew a rent in your 

handkerchief with a gunny-sack needle.

Using too much of any good material is just about as harmful as using a 

bad substance.

Geological Ages of Golf Architecture:

I. The Old Pasture Epoch.

IL The Age of Straight Ridge Cops and Square Greens.

III. The Era of Chocolate Drops; also known as the Time of the 

Mound Builders.

IV. The Period of the Blind Bunkers.

V. The Epoch of Backed-Up Greens.

VI. Back to Nature as a Model.

A putter is the club used to play the last four strokes of a hole if the 

greens are bad—but only one or two strokes if the greens are good.

If a bunker is placed in a fairway it is wholly unfair to have it concealed.

Sand is expensive on many courses. Don’t make sand hazards unless they 

can be seen. Grassy hollows are cheaper for concealed hazards.

Square, built-up tees are slowly going the way of the dodo.

A little care of putting greens week by week is infinitely better than great 

efforts after they have gone to the bad.

A hidden bunker is like a concealed weapon.

Never use acid phosphate alone or in mixed fertilizers on a putting green 
unless you want white clover. Nothing else encourages white clover so much 
as most of the phosphates.

Moss in turf is a sure sign that fertilizer is needed. Lime will NOT 

eradicate moss.