Bulletin of the Green Section 
of the U. S. Golf Association

Vol. V 

Washington, D. C., November 16, 1925 

No. 11

A MONTHLY PERIODICAL TO PROMOTE THE 
BETTERMENT OF GOLF COURSES

CONTENTS 

Page

The Vital Importance of Topdressing in the Maintenance of Satisfactory 
Creeping Bent Greens—O. B. Fitts................................................................242

Bermuda Grass Experiences at Enid, Oklahoma—H. L. Entriken....................  245
Instructive Golf Holes XVII. No. 10, Merion Cricket Club................................ 246
Winter Treatment of Bermuda Greens—C. G. Holland........................................ 249
Fertilizing Bermuda Grass with Ammonium Sulfate—Thomas P. Hinman... 250
Weed Killing Instrument—W. R. Hurd, 2d................................................................ 251
Kikuyu Grass—E. S. Garner.....................................................................................  252
A Three-Year Record of Unit Costs in Course Maintenance—Guy C. West... 253
Brown-Patch Control Resulting from Early-Morning Work on Greens—

Al. Schardt.................................................................................................................  254
Producing Turf on Sandy Wastes...........................................................................  255
A Simple Combination Compost Grinder and Screen............................................ 256
Spent Hops as a Fertilizer and Amendment for Heavy Soils—Eberhard

Anheuser ......................................................................................................................257
Some U. S. Golf Association Decisions on the Rules of Golf.............................. 258
Clearing a Lake or Pond of  Vegetation.....................................................................258
Questions and Answers........................................................................................... 259

MEMBERS OF THE GREEN COMMITTEE OF THE UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 
•C. V. Piper, Chairman, P. O. Box 313, Pennsylvania Avenue Station, Washington, D. C.
R. A* Oakley, Vice-Chairman, P. O. Box 313, Pennsylvania Avenue Station, Washington, D. C.
*E. J. Marshall, Vice-Chairman, Spitzer Building, Toledo, Ohio.
W. A. Alexander, Corn Exchange Building, Chicago, Ill.
Eberhard Anheuser, care of Anheuser-Busch, Inc., St. Louis, Mo.
Frank B. Barrett, 30 East Forty-second Street, New York, N. Y.
A. C. U. Berry, Selling Building, Portland, Oreg.
J. K. Bole, 611 Hunkin-Conkey Building, East Twelfth Street and Walnut Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio.
Wm. F. Brooks, 1100 Builders’ Exchange, Minneapolis, Minn.
C. B. Buxton, care of H. L. Edwards & Co., Dallas, Tex.
A. H. Campbell, 4 Wellington Street East, Toronto, Ontario.
N. Stuart Campbell, 13 Market Square, Providence, R. I.
Wm. C. Fownes, Jr., 313 Sixth Avenue, Pittsburgh, Pa.
♦Walter S. Harban, 2101 Wyoming Avenue N. W., Washington, D. C.
Thos. P. Hinman, 515 Fourth National Bank Building, Atlanta, Ga.
A* J. Hood, Penobscot Building, Detroit, Mich.
Frederic C. Hood, Watertown, Mass.
Norman Macbeth, 800 Corporation Building, Los Angeles, Calif.
Sherrill Sherman, 516 John Street, Utica, N. Y.
Frederick Snare, Country Club de la Habana, Apartado 1267, Havana, Cuba.
James L. Taylor, 777 Carroll Street, Brooklyn, N. Y.
♦Wynant D. Vanderpool, 766 Broad Street, Newark, N. J.
♦Alan D. Wilson, 321 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
Frank L. Woodward, 1357 Wiliams Street, Denver, Colo.

•Executive Committee member.

ADVISORY MEMBERS

Published by the Green Committee of the United States Golf Association at Room 7213, Building 

F, 7th and B N. W., Washington, D. C.

Address all MAIL to P. O. Box 313, Pennsylvania Avenue Station, Washington, D. C.
Send TELEGRAMS to Room 7213, Building F, 7th and B N. W., Washington, D. C.
Subscription Price: To golf clubs that are members of the Green Section of the U. S. Golf 

Association, $4.00 per year (included in membership fee).

Entered as second-class matter December 16, 1921, at the postoffice at Washington, D. C., under 
the Act of March 3, 1879. Copyright, 1925, by the Green Committee of the U. S. Golf Association.

242

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vo1-5- No U

The Vital Importance of Topdressing in the Maintenance of 
Satisfactory Creeping Bent Greens
By O. B. Fitts

As the subject of topdressing has been given considerable space 
in the Bulletin from time to time it may appear to the older readers 
of the Bulletin that this particular factor in greens maintenance 
is being overemphasized. Notwithstanding this, many complaints of 
unsatisfactory creeping bent greens are still being received, accom­
panied with descriptions of conditions which indicate the lack of 
proper topdressing. As there are many greenkeepers who this 
season are having their first experience with creeping bent greens, 
it is felt that the importance of topdressing can not, therefore, be 
overstressed at this time.

Every greenkeeper wants to keep his greens in the best possible 
condition. Every active green-committeeman appreciates the satis­
faction which his club members derive from playing on turf of fine 
quality. It is our desire to help both the greenkeeper and the green­
committeeman as much as possible toward achieving the very best in 
this respect, by passing on to them the information gained through 
our experimental work with turf grasses.

The results of the experimental work at the Arlington Turf 
Garden during the season of 1925 have furnished convincing evidence 
of the fact that topdressing is indispensable as an aid to the produc­
tion of turf of good quality in the maintenance of creeping bent 
greens. One has only to see the difference in the quality of turf 
between the areas which were topdressed at the turf garden and the 
areas of the same grass which were not topdressed, to be thoroughly 
convinced of the importance of topdressing. Many who visit the 
garden observe this difference and are convinced. And being con­
vinced that the turf on the areas which have been topdressed is far 
superior to that on the areas not topdressed, they almost invariably 
have certain questions which they desire answered. Usually the first 
question is, “How often do you topdress?” And this is followed by 
the inquiries, “With what material do you topdress?” “How much 
topdressing do you put on at one application?” “How do you apply 
it?” Asking questions is what we are particularly desirous of hav­
ing our visitors do, as it then becomes an easy matter to explain the 
different phases of the work. Now, an answer to a question with the 
evidence before one is much more convincing than is a written 
answer. But, unfortunately, not all who are interested in green­
keeping are able to visit our plots; therefore this article is prepared 
in order to discuss certain features of topdressing for the benefit of 
readers of the Bulletin to whom opportunity has not been afforded 
for discussing the matter in person.

Times when it is necessary to topdress.—The results of experi­
ments at the Arlington Turf Garden indicate that a very satisfactory 
frequency of applying topdressing is once a month during the grow­
ing season, which, in the northeastern quarter of the United States, 
corresponds to the period of'.approximately April 1 to October 1. 
Of course the frequency may be increased or decreased somewhat, as 
may be rendered necessary by prevailing conditions, without great 
variation in the results obtained. In our experience, however, 

Nov. 16,1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

243

monthly applications have been very practical and satisfactory, and 
we feel that they should be adhered to as closely as practicable.

Materials to use for topdressing.—For ordinary clay loam soil, 
a compost made up of equal parts of loam, sharp sand, and well- 
rotted stable manure or similar organic material, has been found to 
give very satisfactory results. These proportions should, however, 
vary according to the type of soil on which the compost is to be used. 
If it is to be used on sandy soil, the percentage of sand should be 
decreased and the percentage of loam increased. If it is to be used on 
soil rich in organic matter, the percentage of manure should be 
decreased and the percentage of loam increased. This compost dress­
ing should be reinforced with ammonium sulfate or ammonium phos­
phate, as these stimulating fertilizers help to keep the grass in a 
vigorous condition.

Rate of application.—One cubic yard of compost, in which has 
been thoroughly mixed 10 to 25 pounds of ammonium sulfate or 
ammonium phosphate, is sufficient to dress 5,000 square feet of 
green, after the turf is established.. In the early stages of a creeping 
bent green—that is, before the turf has attained a playable condi­
tion—it may be found necessary to make slightly heavier applications 
in order to get a smooth and firm surface more quickly. The amount 
of ammonium sulfate or ammonium phosphate should moreover be 
varied according to the season. In the cooler months of spring and 
fall 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet of green, or 25 pounds per cubic 
yard of compost, may be used; in the hot months of summer, how­
ever, the quantity should be reduced to about 2 pounds per 1,000 
square feet, or 10 pounds per cubic yard of compost.

Fig. 1.—Spreading compost with a shovel 
and rubbing it into the turf with the 
back of a rake. Note the 
uniform distribution

Fig. 2.—Spreading compost with a top­
dressing machine. Satisfactory results 
are obtained by this method, with 
an accompanying economy in 
labor

Methods of applying compost.—There are two general methods 
in practice for dressing putting greens. Each is satisfactory as far 
as results are concerned. They are illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. 
Spreading the compost with a shovel by hand is a rather slow method; 
but if the man is onto his job he can make a very nice, uniform dis­
tribution of the material. The method of applying compost with the 
topdressing machine is more practical where large areas or a number 
of greens are to be dressed, as it is much faster than hand spreading. 
Regardless of the method used, it is necessary to follow the applica­

244 BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE voi.5. no.h

tion with brushing the compost down into the turf. For this pur­
pose a number of devices have proved satisfactory. The compost 
may be rubbed in by the back of a rake, as shown in Figure 1, or it 
may be brushed in by the use of a flexible metal door-mat, shown in 
Figure 3, or by any other means that may prove satisfactory. Apart 
from the method employed for brushing the compost in, the impor­
tant thing is that it must be brushed in well if satisfactory results 
are to be obtained.

Fig. 3.—Brushing compost into turf with a flexible metal door-mat
Why it is necessary to topdress greens.—There are many 
reasons for topdressing greens. It is necessary, in one sense, because 
the topdressing furnishes additional plant food, which is essential to 
the growth of the turf grasses. It is necessary, further, because it 
adds to the green a new lively surface of fresh soil, which is essential 
to the continuous healthy condition of the turf and which keeps the 
surface from getting too hard. It is necessary because it helps to 
fill up small depressions in the green, thereby making the surface 
smoother and more uniform. It is necessary, especially in the case 
of creeping bent greens, because it keeps the turf which is continu-

Fig. 4.—Cross-section of a piece of turf from a portion of a plot of Washington creeping bent at 
Arlington Turf Garden, which had been topdressed monthly during the season of 1925. 
Note the firm, true surface presented

Nov. 16, 1925

UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

245

ously accumulating above the surface of the soil filled and firm. If 
creeping bent is allowed to grow through the season without top­
dressing, a mat of loose, fluffy or spongy turf will develop, a con­
dition about which many complaints have been received. On the 
other hand, if the greens are topdressed as suggested above and cut 
closely, the turf will be firm and true, simply because the compost 
serves to fill in the open spaces that occur between the stolons or

Fig. 5.—Cross-section of a piece of turf from another portion of the same plot which had not 
been topdressed during the season. The turf is loose and fluffy, impossible to cut 
satisfactorily, and undesirable for putting purposes
runners. This difference in results obtained is clearly illustrated in 
Figures 4 and 5. In both figures is shown turf of the same strain of 
creeping bent, given identical treatment in both cases except that the 
turf seen in Figure 4 was topdressed each month during the growing 
season and that in Figure 5 had not been topdressed during the 
season.

Bermuda Grass Experiences at Enid, Oklahoma 
By H. L. Entriken, Enid Country Club

Last winter (1924-1925) the thermometer stood at 10 degrees 
below zero for a long spell and most of the Bermuda lawns in the city 
froze out.

As a precaution against freezing we covered seven of our Ber­
muda putting greens with wheat straw late in November and six 
with a topdressing mostly of soil. Those covered with straw with­
stood the freeze and remained green all winter under the straw; those 
covered with soil all had to be replanted in the spring. The straw 
was removed from the seven greens in spring, and the greens were 
then topdressed. They were ready for play weeks before any others 
in this part of the country and even farther south. We expect to 
cover all of our greens during the coming winter and to use the 
approaches for temporary greens.

Brown-patch attacked our Bermuda greens for the first time this 
year, but the greens recovered after a few applications of chloro-phenol 
mercury followed by topdressing. The new growth seems to be some­
what coarser, perhaps due to the stimulating influence of the chemical.

£46 BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vo1-5- No-11

STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, CIRCULATION, ETC., REQUIRED BY
THE ACT OF CONGRESS OF AUGUST 24, 1912, OF THE BULLETIN OF THE GREEN 
SECTION OF THE UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION, PUBLISHED MONTHLY, AT 
WASHINGTON, D. C., FOR OCTOBER 1, 1925:

District of Columbia, ss:

Before me, a notary public in and for the District of Columbia, personally appeared W. B. 
Lydenberg, who, having been duly sworn according to law, deposes and says that he is the business 
manager of the Bulletin of the Green Section of the United States Golf Association, and that the 
following is, to the best of his knowledge and belief, a true statement of the ownership, manage­
ment, etc., of the aforesaid publication for the date shown in the above caption, required by the 
Act of August 24, 1912, embodied in Section 443, Postal Laws and Regulations, to wit:

1. That the names and addresses of the publisher, editor, managing editor, and business man­
ager are: Publisher, Green Committee of the United States Golf Association, Room 7213, S.W. corner 
Seventh & B sts. N.W., Washington, D. C. Editor and managing editor, C. V. Piper, P. O. Box 
313, Washington, D. C. Business manager, W. B. Lydenberg, P. O. Box 313, Washington, D. C.

2. That the owners are the United States Golf Association, a mutual organization of golf clubs. 
President. W. D. Vanderpool, Newark, N. J.; vice-presidents, R. A. Gardner, Chicago, Ill., and 
W. C. Fownes, Jr., Pittsburgh, Pa.; secretary, H. H. Ramsey, 110 E. 42d St., New York City; 
treasurer, E. S. Moore, Roslyn, N. Y.

3. That the Association has issued no bonds, stocks, mortgages, or other securities.

(Signed) 

W. B. Lydenberg, Business Manager.

Sworn to and subscribed before me this 1st day of October, 1925.

(Signed) 

Bernard Connor, Notary Public.

Instructive Golf Holes XVII
No. 10, Merion Cricket Club, East Course, Ardmore, Pa., Length, 335 
Yards

should make it impossible for a player to reach and hold the green 
with his tee shot.

Our illustrations show an excellent example of this type of hole, 

which should be represented on every golf course.

Nov. 16. 1925

UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

247

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248

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE vol.5. no. 11

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Nov. 16,1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

249

Winter Treatment of Bermuda Greens

By C. G. Holland, Danville (Virginia) Golf Club

In the fall of 1924, by reason of the difference of opinion existing 
as to the advisability of sowing Italian ryegrass on Bermuda greens 
for winter play, we decided to test the problem out experimentally on 
our golf course. On our three best greens we sowed Italian ryegrass 
and played on them all winter. The other six greens, after the 
Bermuda grass became dormant, we covered, two of them with rotten 
cotton and four of them with sand. The covering of these six greens 
was suggested to us by the fact that the winter before on one of the 
greens we left two piles of topdressing and on another we left two 
piles of sand all winter and observed the following spring that where 
these piles had been the Bermuda grass came out earlier and thicker 
than it did on any other places on the greens.

We left the six greens covered until the grass began to come 
through in the spring. Some of these greens had a good stand of 
Poa annua, which would come up in the fall but, although serving as 
a fairly good winter grass, delayed the spread of the Bermuda in the 
spring, and to such extent that it would be the middle of summer 
before these greens would be in first-class shape. One object in 
covering these greens accordingly was to get rid of the Poa annua, 
which was accomplished.

In the spring when the Bermuda grass began to show signs of 
life, we raked off the covering, which was from 1 to 2 inches thick, 
smoothed up the surface with a steel mat, and with hardly a sprig of 
grass showing they looked like newly seeded areas. However, the 
Bermuda came through quickly and spread rapidly due to stimulation 
from ammonium sulfate, and by the first of May the greens were in 
as good shape as that in which during previous years they had been 
by the middle of July. Not having much rain, we could not use as 
much ammonium sulfate as otherwise we should have used.

This being our first experience in using ammonium sulfate, we 
burned several spots in two of the greens, but these were soon 
covered over again, and in spite of the fact that we have no means 
of watering our greens and we did not have an inch of rainfall from 
the middle of May until the first of September, our greens were above 
the average in quality in our section and not surpassed by any.

With regard to the three greens on which we sowed Italian rye­
grass and on which we played all winter, although they were our 
three best greens the year before, they were our poorest greens this 
year, due to the fact that the Italian ryegrass and the Poa annua 
prevented early; spreading of the Bermuda. When the drought came 
in the middle of May the Italian ryegrass and Poa annua died out, 
leaving the Bermuda very thin and the greens entirely bare in spots. 
As we have no water on our greens, this condition remained until 
about the first of October, and with the October rains they still have 
not become as good as they were the year before.

Our plans now are to cover our greens every year after Christmas 
with sand from 1 to 2 inches deep, and uncover them about the first of 
the following April.

When we covered our six greens our players protested vigorously, 
wanting to play on all nine of the greens throughout the winter.

250 BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE VoL 5- N°-11

After seeing the results of covering the greens last winter, however, 
they have surrendered to the idea and want all the greens covered 
this winter.

Another result of covering the greens was that we practically 
eliminated all weed trouble, as the covering kept the weeds in check 
until the growing season for the Bermuda grass. Heretofore every 
spring we have had to hire extra help to weed the greens; but this 
year such was not necessary, and our greens have been practically 
free from crab grass, which has given us considerable trouble during 
previous seasons.

This fall we have topdressed and sown spots on the fairways to 
Italian ryegrass for use as winter greens during January, February, 
March, and part of April.

We therefore feel that any club having Bermuda greens and lying 
in the northern part of the Bermuda belt will find it advisable not to 
sow any winter grass on the greens, but to smother out all the other 
grasses by covering the greens with sand about the first of January 
and uncovering them when the Bermuda shows signs of growth about 
the first of April. The players will probably kick the first year; but 
when they will see the results in the spring and summer following 
they will be more than satisfied.

Ammonium sulfate and compost.—Through error the proportion­
ing of compost and ammonium sulfate was given on page 213 of the 
September, 1925, Bulletin in the answer to question 5 as “15 to 25 
pounds of the former to 1 cubic yard of the latter.” This should have 
read, “15 to 25 pounds of ammonium sulfate to 1 cubic yard of 
compost.”

Fertilizing Bermuda Grass With Ammonium Sulfate
By Thomas P. Hinman, Druid Hills Golf Club, Atlanta, Ga.

In the early spring of 1925 we began to use ammonium sulfate 
exclusively as the fertilizer for our greens of Bermuda grass at the 
Druid Hills Golf Club. The past summer has been unusually dry 
with us, and at the present time (October, 1925), we are about 20 
inches short of normal rainfall for the year; as a consequence, the 
conditions have not been really favorable for our fairways during 
the entire summer, and we have had to use winter rules. In the 
whole history of Atlanta we have not had such unfavorable weather 
conditions to contend with. In spite of this, however, we have had 
the most beautiful greens in the history of the Club. This has been 
due entirely, I believe, to the use of ammonium sulfate.

In using ammonium sulfate we mix it carefully with the topdress­
ing, thus obtaining a rather even spread of the fertilizer and pre­
venting burning. The fertilizer has been applied at the rate of 
about 8 pounds to each green, about every 5 weeks, mixed with the 
topdressing. The greens have been constantly watered, and always 
watered immediately after the application of the topdressing and 
fertilizer. Heretofore we have used the “starvation” method in han­
dling our Bermuda greens (that is, no watering other than that 
obtained from the natural rainfall, and very little fertilizing • but 

Nov. 16,1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

251

I am now firmly convinced that Bermuda should receive both nutri­
ment and plenty of water. A number of our greens are comparable 
to good bent greens. I believe that the use of ammonium sulfate 
has done more for our Bermuda greens than anything else.

It is interesting also that not one of the 18 greens has a single bit 
of foreign grass, and no weeds; and yet the grass has not been picked 
since we have been using ammonium sulfate.

With regard to the best time of day for watering greens, we have 
watered them in the morning, midday, afternoon, and night, and 
can see absolutely no difference in the results.

Weed Killing Instrument
By W. R. Hurd, 2d, United Shoe Machinery Athletic Association, Beverly, Mass.

We have had considerable success for over a year now in ridding 
our greens of clover, chickweed, dandelions, crab grass, and similar 
weeds by the use of an instrument with rotary cutting disks shown in 
the accompanying illustration. The instrument is made at our fac­
tory. The disks are made from discarded metal, and are mounted on 
a spindle on which they rotate, with a bushing made from gas pipe 
between each disk to hold it in position. The diameter of the cutting

Disking tools for killing weeds

disk is 2!/2 inches. The disks are set about 14 inch apart on the shaft. 
By running the instrument over the weeds in several different direc­
tions they are cut so they are killed, and without injury to the grass. 
During the crab grass season we use this on the greens in the areas 
that are infested with crab grass, before the seed heads have had a 
chance to ripen, and then go over the spots with a greens sweeper to 
gather up the cut seed heads.

252 BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE voi.5. No.n

Kikuyu Grass
By E. S. Garner, La Cumbre Golf and Country Club, Santa Barbara, Calif.

Kikuyu grass (Pennisetum clandestinum)1 is a strong, creeping 
perennial grass, a native of Uganda, Africa. It was first introduced 
by the United States Department of Agriculture in 1915, and tested 
in California in 1916 at several places. In January, 1920, however, 
Dr. P. B. Kennedy, of the University of California, secured a small 
quantity of the grass direct from the University of Pretoria, shipped 
in a small tin tube. When this was received by Dr. Kennedy, six 
weeks after it had been shipped, he found, to quote from his report, 
that “New roots had formed a matted growth, and leafy shoots sev­
eral inches long were present. These were planted in the greenhouse 
and grew readily.” From that time on kikuyu grass has never ceased 
to “grow readily”; and though it has never been known to produce 
seed, relying for its increase entirely on vegetative propagation, it is 
no exaggeration to say that there is now sufficient material available 
to supply every community in the state with at least a little. Already 
reports from various sections of California indicate that kikuyu grass 
finds itself in a congenial atmosphere. That it is far from exacting 
in its requirements is evident, since it has been found to do well under 
both dry, semi-desert condition, and in flooded, swampy places, as 
well as in light, sandy loam, and in stiff adobe. It is also remarkably 
tolerant of alkali. In one respect, however, kikuyu grass must be sat­
isfied, namely, in that it needs abundant warmth and sunshine. While 
it must therefore be regarded as essentially a summer grass, it will 
nevertheless weather a severe winter after it is once established. 
Under winter conditions the leafage may wither while the under­
ground part of the plant survives. In such places, however, as experi­
ence only a few nights of frost, there will be little effect beyond a 
temporary browning and, unlike Bermuda grass, it will not remain 
dormant during the entire winter. In other respects kikuyu grass 
may be advantageously compared with Bermuda grass. Producing 
no seed, it can be kept within bounds, and if it is desired to eradi­
cate kikuyu grass this can easily be done by plowing and exposing the 
underground parts of the plants to the sun or to frost. As a forage 
grass it is infinitely more luscious, palatable, and nutritious than is 
Bermuda. Analyses made by the University of California and also 
by the Department of Agriculture of the Union of South Africa agree 
in showing kikuyu grass to have an even higher protein-content than 
has alfalfa. As kikuyu is eminently adapted also to withstand 
trampling and grazing by stock it seems that it has very great pos­
sibilities as a pasture grass on all types of soil. It will attain its 
greatest luxuriance, however, only where warmth and water go hand 
in hand. Its full range of adaptability is yet to be determined, but 
it appears likely that it will flourish throughout the warmer parts 
of California wherever occasional summer irrigation is possible.

Experiments have recently been made to determine whether 
kikuyu grass may be of value on golf courses in the regions to which 
it is adapted. It seems that as a fairway grass it probably will not

1 Kikuyu grass, on the basis of numerous tests, will survive the winter only in Florida 
along the Gulf coast, in southern Texas, and in the warmer parts of Arizona and California’ 
It is moreover distinctly 3 rich*land grass* and is unsatisfactory for poor sandy soils.—Editors. 

Nov. 16,1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

253

be as great a success as was hoped, for though it will produce a very 
dense and brilliant carpet of turf it has a tendency gradually to 
thicken and “push up” until, in the case of kikuyu, the mat of grass 
may become quite four inches thick. While a perfect “lie” for the 
ball may be provided, the turf is too soft for a firm stance. Another 
disadvantage is, that on alighting the ball is so effectively cushioned 
that practically no roll is obtained. It would seem that even with 
the most assiduous mowing it would be impossible to counteract this 
tendency to form a thick mat; but however undesirable this may be 
for fairways, no such consideration can be advanced regarding kikuyu 
as a grass for the rough, for which purpose it is most excellent. For 
bunkers, unsightly banks, ditches, and all such places as are liable to 
erosion, kikuyu grass is likewise most excellent. The luxuriance 
which it attains on unweathered subsoil, whether sand or clay, is 
most remarkable, though ample water will be required until it has 
become established.

In short, kikuyu is a great grass if grown in the right place. 
Since it bears no seed, there is really no reason why it should be 
grown in any other than the right place; there need be no fear of its 
ever “getting into the greens”—no more fear, that is, than cabbages 
“getting in.”

A Three-Year Record of Unit Costs in Course Maintenance
By Guy C. West, Superintendent, Fall River Country Club

By “unit costs” I mean separate records of costs involved in the 
various elements in course maintenance, such as greens, fairways, 
rough, tools and equipment, turf nursery, and others, as listed in 
detail in the following table. A record of unit costs is the best record 
for comparative purposes. In my article beginning on page 286 of 
the Bulletin, Vol. II (1922), October, I outlined a system of unit­
cost analysis, and after adhering to that system for the past three 
years I am able to present its results to the readers of the Bulletin.
In the following table is shown, for the three years, the cost per­

centage for the various units:

Unit

Compost piles............................................
Fairways....................................................
Greens ........................................................
Rough ..........................................................
Stable..........................................................
Tees..............................................................
Tools and equipment................................
Traps and bunkers....................................
Turf nursery..............................................
All others..................................................

1922-23
%
3.0
29.9
33.1
9.7
3.4
9.4
4.2
5.5
1.1
.7

1923-24
%
5.5
18.3
35.8
9.6
4.9
12.4
5.8
6.7
.5
.5

1924-25
%
2.4
11.6
33.1
8.6
5.8
12.5
7.2
14.3
1.8
2.7

100.0 

100.0 

100.0

The cause of unit costs differing materially from year to year 
under any one item should be readily explainable. Unless there is 
some known cause to explain an increase in the unit cost of any item, 
investigation should be begun with a view to determining the cause 
and taking steps to lower the cost the following year. For example, 

254 BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vo1-5- No11 

my unit costs for maintenance of fairways, or Fairways, Care, as I 
head my item, the unit in this case being an acre of fairway, dropped 
from $35.65 in 1922-23 to $22.93 in 1923-24 and $23.62 in 1924-25. 
The decrease in cost was due chiefly to the purchase of new equip­
ment for mowing and to some extent to other factors of relatively 
minor importance.

Among unit costs of interest which I have thus obtained are the 

following:

Cost per cubic yard of compost built, 1923-24, 89^c.
Cost per tee maintenance: 1923-24, $25.73; 1924-25, $27.57.
Cost per trap maintenance: 1923-24, $16.21; 1924-25, $13.54.
Cost per square foot of green maintenance: 1923-24, $0.0264; 

1924-25, $0.0248.

Keen insight is obtained into the work of the year from cost 
analysis figures; and when one has figures for a course for several 
consecutive years, much of interest can thus be found. As a result 
of keeping these figures for over three years, I feel certain that the 
information gained is well worth the comparatively small amount of 
time needed for the work involved. Reports, easily prepared from 
the figures obtained, give the greens committee a good idea of how 
the work is progressing and how the money is spent, and are certain 
to result in closer cooperation and better harmony between the green­
keeper and his greens committee.

If you know something good, tell others about it.—That is the 
only way to put greenkeeping on a scientific basis. Science grows 
with disseminating knowledge, not secreting it.

The editors of the Bulletin will be glad to publish in its pages 
instructive and helpful items pertaining to greenkeeping. Contribu­
tions from greenkeepers or members of green committees are always 
welcome. Run through the back pages of the Bulletin and see how 
many helpful suggestions you can find contributed by others. Then 
do your own share in helping others who have not had the benefit of 
your experience. Photographs of new and useful implements, or of 
instructive features on golf courses, are also of great value to others.

Brown-Patch Control Resulting From Early-Morning Work 
on Greens
By Al. Schardt, Wanakah Country Club, Hamburg, N. Y.

Our course, of 18 holes, is within 600 yards of a lake, and is thus 
subjected to a heavy dew all summer, and to an abundance of worm 
casts in the mornings. To remove the dew and the worm casts so the 
greens can be cut it is necessary each morning first to sweep some of 
them with a bamboo pole. Of course this work can not be done on all 
of the greens at the same time, as they must be taken in rotation. 
The surprising thing in connection with this feature of our work dur­
ing the past two summers is that the greens which were swept and 
worked on first in the morning when covered with dew had no signs 
of brown-patch whatever, while those that were worked on two hours 
later, or when the dew had dried off, were the ones which in every 

Nov. 16.1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

255

case were affected. The conclusion that one is naturally led to draw 
from this is that the mechanical removal of dew from grass in the 
early morning will prevent brown-patch. At any rate these results 
are so interesting that next year we propose to sweep all of our 
greens in the early morning when they are covered with dew to see 
if we can not entirely eliminate this dread disease.

In order more clearly to illustrate the application of this principle 
in our case I shall briefly outline the program which we have adopted 
in connection with this morning work on the greens. We use 6 men 
for mowing the greens, each man cutting 3 greens. The men start 
to work in the morning at 7 o’clock, each man starting to work on the 
same green every morning. For instance, if a man is assigned to cut 
the 6th, 7th and 16th greens, he will start first on the 6th each morn­
ing, then go to the 7th, and finish on the 16th. So the first thing this 
man does is to sweep the 6th green each morning with a bamboo pole, 
then cut it, and proceed thence to the 7th and 16th greens, invariably 
maintaining the same rotation of first the 6th green, next the 7th, and 
finally the 16th. This cutting in rotation applies to each man and his 
three greens.

[Mr. Schardt’s observations with regard to the early-morning removal of dew 
in the control of brown-patch seem to be strikingly in accord with observations 
which have previously been reported in the Bulletin relating to other mechani­
cal means of removing the dew from turf in the early morning and the resulting 
diminution of the extent of brown-patch injury, namely, the early-morning 
watering of greens and early-morning air-drainage. The effect of air-drainage 
has been observed in the cases of greens sufficiently open or unprotected by sur­
rounding trees or brushes to permit the free sweep of air in the early mornings in 
the direction of the prevailing breezes.—Editors.]

New Member Clubs of the Green Section.—Fisher’s Island Club, 
Fisher’s Island, N. Y.; Wyantenuck Country Club, Great Barrington, 
Mass.; Albemarle Golf Club, West Newton, Mass.; Belvidere Golf 
Club, Charlevoix, Mich.; Raquette Lake Golf Club, Raquette Lake, 
N. Y.; Wentworth Hall Golf Club, Jackson, N. H.

Producing Turf on Sandy Wastes

Particularly along the seashore extensive stretches are found 
admirably situated for utilization for golf-course purposes, although 
such conditions not infrequently exist inland also. Good turf can be 
grown on these stretches after they are first covered with a layer of 
loamy soil not less than 4 inches in depth. Various expedients have 
been tried at times of covering these wastes with material more 
readily available, such as coarse sand, mud, or silt dredged from the 
ocean floor or river bottoms, or with salt-water turf. Such material 
has been found to be of no value for producing fine turf. Soil from 
inland excavations, such as cellar soil removed in the course of build­
ing operations, will also be found to produce a good turf bed provided 
the turf is afterwards well fertilized; but if a good loamy top soil 
can be secured for the purpose, better and more lasting result will be 
obtained at less subsequent expense for maintenance.

256

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vo1-5- No11

A Simple Combination Compost Grinder and Screen

The material is fed into the hopper at the top, in which any lumps 
of dirt are crushed by a breaker. From the hopper it is discharged 
onto two oscillating screens, the upper of %-inch mesh and the lower

Compost grinder and screen
□f }4-inch mesh. Should any stones get into the hopper too large to 
go through the breaker, no harm would be done, as the breaker is 
belt-driven, and only stoppage would result pending removal of the 
stones. The machine in the illustration is being driven by a lawn­
mower engine.

Returfing divots.—The Peripatetic Golfer (The Bulletin, page 
21b, September, 1925) remarks: “It does not help to fill up divots 
with soil and seed; and besides, it is very expensive.” A corre­
spondent accordingly writes in to know how divots should be re­
turfed. His fairways are “pock-marked with a multitude of divot 
holes.” We have observed that an ordinary divot is covered with 
turf from the edges at least as quickly as it would be by putting in 
soil and seed. In most cases the grass that develops from the edges 
is more vigorous than seedlings, which are thus crowded out. It is 
therefore felt that filling up divots with soil and seed is a waste of 
time and money, and that better results are obtained with applica­
tions of fertilizer and water.

Testing Seed For Germination.—Ordinarily grass seed more than 
two years old should be tested carefully before any extensive seeding 
is done. It is an easy matter to test seed simply by means of a box 
of soil which can be kept moist. An ordinary test of this kind is about 
as satisfactory as one made in a laboratory. Red fescue seed loses its 
germinating power in a comparatively short time, and seed more 
than a year old is usually very inferior in germination. On the other 
hand, Kentucky bluegrass, as a rule, germinates better after it is 
a year old than it does immediately after it has been harvested, and 
it will hold its germination usually for at least two years. Bent seed 
five or six years old has been known to germinate satisfactorily.

Nov. is, 1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

257

Spent Hops as a Fertilizer and Amendment for Heavy Soils
By Eberhard Anheuser, Sunset Hill Country Club, Sappington, Mo.

Some of our fairways are on the highland and are of a very stiff 
clay. When we first sowed them the grass seedlings had trouble in 
coming through the hard surface, which resulted in a very poor 
stand of grass. We then proceeded to spread spent hops over this 
troublesome area, harrowed the hops in, and resowed, and the grass 
came up satisfactorily. In this way we have found spent hops to be 
very useful in making heavy soils friable and mellow. We have also 
used spent hops with good results in our topdressings for the greens 
and as a straight topdressing on the fairways.

Spent hops is the residue from hops used in the brewing industry. 
The original hops are employed in brewing for the purpose of im­
parting flavor, aroma, and other properties to the wort—that is, the 
liquid extract obtained from the malt and other cereals used in the 
industry. The wort is brought to the boiling point and the hops are 
then added to it. The boiling of the wort continues for a specified 
period of time, during which process the extractive matter and fla­
voring substances in the hops are dissolved. The liquid extract is 
then separated from the hops, to be further processed, and the hop 
residues, which are then useless, are either given an additional wash­
ing with hot water or are dumped directly as being of no further 
value. It is rather difficult for the average brewer to wash out thor­
oughly all the extractive matter from the hops, and consequently a 
certain loss of extract or wort is the result.

Extractive matters remaining in the hop residues, although rela­
tively small in quantity, nevertheless contain a certain amount of 
carbohydrate and nitrogen compounds and mineral salts, all of which 
tend to enrich the residual hops with substances which are entirely 
lacking in the hop. It can therefore well be assumed that if the spent 
hops are allowed to remain heaped up for a long time and kept moist, 
a chemical action will result similar to that which takes place in 
standing manure, and the composition of the mass will thus be so 
altered that products favorable for fertilizing purposes will be 
formed. Due to the fibrous structure of the hop leaves and flowers 
the natural disintegration process takes at least three or four years.
An analysis of spent hops thus treated made by the Bureau of 
Plant Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, is as fol­
lows: Potash (K2O), trace; phosphoric acid (P2O5), .34 per cent; 
nitrogen, (N) 5.55 per cent.

The material is however quite acid (technically expressed as 
hydrogen-ion exponent 4.7 per cent). The total amount of acidity 
calculated as lactic acid is .4 per cent.

Compost under cover.—We have built a shed, 60 by 60 feet, with 
two sides enclosed, and with four bins, at a cost of $200. Into this, 
on dry days, we bring our topdressing material, and there on rainy 
days we work it over. It is then ready for use when needed. Before 
that we stored our topdressing material in the open, and it seemed 
that every time we prepared a batch of topdressing rain would come 
to spoil the work, as the material would have to be rescreened before 
use.—Dewitt Gallaher, Kanazvha Country Club, Charleston, W. Va.

258 BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vo1-5- No11

Some U. S. Golf Association Decisions on the Rules of Golf

How and in what order do matches take precedence? Does a 

threesome have right-of-way over a foursome ?

Decision.—It is assumed that by “threesome” and “foursome” 
reference is made to three-ball and four-ball matches. Neither of 
these takes precedence over the other, as under the Rules of Golf 
three-ball and four-ball are not properly constituted matches.

A stream runs nearly parallel with one of our holes. When a ball 
is driven into the stream we drop back on the side from which the 
ball entered. Is that right? Some players contend that the hazard 
should be kept between the player and the hole and that the ball 
should be dropped on the other side.

Decision.—Unless your local committee has ruled that the stream 
is a “parallel water hazard,” in which case the ball could be dropped 
on the nearer side of the stream, the player on this hole would have to 
be governed by the provisions in Rule 27.

What is the proper procedure in the case of a ball being sliced or 
pulled to and stopping upon the putting green of a hole that is not 
the hole being played?

Decision.—There is no rule in golf covering the situation you 
describe. It is, however, the custom for local committees to make 
provision for dropping a ball off a putting green other than the one 
that is being played.

May the club be soled in a road crossing a fairway, the road being 

a hazard?

Decision.—As the road is a hazard the club may not be soled. 

Refer to page 6, definition 6, in the book of golf rules.

Clearing a Lake or Pond of Vegetation

Vegetation of two kinds is often troublesome in lakes or ponds, 
namely (1) scums, which consist of minute plants of the algae group 
and which cause bad odors and flavor in the water, and (2) water 
weeds, which root in the bottom and rise above the surface of the 
lake. Scums can be removed by dragging a sack of copper sulfate, 
or bluestone, back and forth through the water, either from the stern 
of a boat or from the end of a pole handled from the shore. This 
chemical, if not used in excessive amount, will not injure fish in the 
water nor make the water unfit for drinking purposes. Copper sul­
fate should be used at a rate not to exceed 1 pound to 125,000 gallons 
of water. In order to calculate the approximate number of gallons 
in a lake or pond, the product of the average length, breadth, and 
depth of the body of water in feet may be multiplied by 6.25.

As regards water weeds, no chemical has been found which may 
be used successfully in killing weeds rooted in the bottom of a lake 
The methods usually employed to rid water of such weeds are scrap­
ing out the plants from the bottom of the lake, occasionally cutting 
them at considerable depths below the surface of the water alter­
nately raising and lowering the surface of the lake by drainage and 

Nov. i6t 1925 UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION 

259

subsequent damming, and stocking the lake with ducks or swans. 
Dragging water weeds with a heavy chain is a rather slow, cumber­
some process which is not always successful. For cutting the weeds 
a sharp scythe blade, saw, or similar instrument may be used, and is 
often attached to the end of a row boat or launch with wire ropes, 
chains, or wire, and dragged at an angle of about 30 degrees. A sub­
marine saw especially designed for the purpose is manufactured. 
This may be operated by two men, one on each bank. It is a ribbon­
like, flexible saw, weighted in such a manner that it cuts the plants 
close to the bottom.

I. ' ...... ' 

. - —. 

. _ , 

------- =;

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

All questions sent to the Green Committee will be answered in a letter 
to the writer as promptly as possible. The more interesting of these 
questions, with concise answers, will appear in this column each month. If 
your experience leads you to disagree with any answer given in this column, 
it is your privilege and duty to write to the Green Committee.

While most of the answers are of general application, please bear in 
mind that each recommendation is intended specifically for the locality 
designated at the end of the question.

1. Fall and winter applications of ammonium sulfate and bone 
meal.—In the last paragraph of the article ending on page 232 of the 
Bulletin, October, 1925, you state that ammonium sulfate may be 
applied to turf during the winter. I have always understood that 
readily available fertilizers, such as ammonium sulfate, were of value 
only during the growing season and that their value was lost if 
applied when the grass was not in a growing state. Our fairways 
are very poor. They were never worked up, as far as I can learn, 
and were cut from the natural field of farmed-out clay, which is very 
thin and underlaid with gumbo clay. All wet locations we have now 
well drained. Compost soil is scarce here, and we have enough only 
for the greens and approaches. We have, however, purchased 10 
tons of bone meal, which we are planning to spread this fall. Would 
it be advisable to mix ammonium sulfate with the bone meal when 
we use it? (Ohio.)

Answer.—It is true that the most economical use of ammonium 
sulfate is made during the growing season of grasses. Occasionally, 
however, it is advisable to apply this fertilizer rather late in the fall. 
The growing season moreover varies with latitude, extending in 
places quite into midwinter. Growing conditions in the fall are espe­
cially favorable to fairways in the crab-grass belt, as at that time 
of the year crab grass is dormant, and anything to stimulate the 
growth of turf grasses at that time of the year tends to thicken the 
turf for the following season. Bone meal is a slowly acting fertilizer 
and requires some time to become available. Experience has indi­
cated that in your latitude it is used most economically when applied 
in February, and we would advise you to defer its use until that time. 
We would advise you to use ammonium sulfate only when conditions 
are favorable to the growth of grass. Accordingly, we would not 
consider it economical to mix ammonium sulfate with bone meal, as 
the two are best applied at different seasons of the year.

260

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE vd-5- No U

2. Bent as a winter grass in the South.—While we know that as 
a general thing the bent grasses are not adapted to warm climates, 
we should like to have your opinion with regard to growing them in 
the South as winter grasses. If they might be killed back by the 
summer heat, would they revive in winter? (Georgia.)

Answer.—After considering all the evidence we have with regard 
to the behavior of bent under conditions similar to yours, we are of 
the opinion that it would be unwise to go to any expense in trying 
to grow bent as a winter grass in the South. We believe that under 
ordinary conditions the effect of the summer heat would be so dis­
astrous that the turf would not recover satisfactorily in the winter, 
and that the expense of special care given to it in the summer to 
keep it in good condition would not justify the results that might be 
obtained.

3. Getting rid of marsh pennywort.—Our greens have become 
heavily spotted with a running plant which is practically smothering 
the Bermuda grass on one or two of the greens and is beginning to 
appear on a few others. Some of these weed patches are 6 feet in 
diameter. We dislike to dig the patches of weed out on account of 
the bare spots that would be left; moreover, the weed makes a put­
ting surface practically as good as clover. The roots of the weed form 
an interlaced mass, and the leaf stems are so tender that it is prac­
tically impossible to make any impression by hand weeding. I am 
sending you a specimen of the weed, and shall be glad for any advice 
as to how to get rid of it. (Florida.)

Answer.—The plant you send is one of the marsh pennyworts 
(Hydrocotylej. It is one of three very similar species which occur 
in your region, but the exact species we can not determine without 
its flowers and seed. A very similar species occurs in the North, 
introduced from India, which is illustrated and described in The 
Bulletin, November, 1921, page 220. As you point out, its putting 
qualities are about like those of white clover. On some of the greens 
in the South it has been rather favored. Very little experimental 
work has been done in connection with the eradication of this weed, 
and all that we can suggest is that the patches be cut out bodily. The 
infested turf may be lifted to a depth of an inch or more and replaced 
with good turf. The pennywort may then be destroyed by compost­
ing the infested turf for a year or two, or it may simply be spread 
on the fairways, where the weed is not objectionable. The flowers 
of this plant are so close to the ground that it will probably form 
seed even under putting green conditions. After the greens are rid 
of the weed, care will have to be exercised in keeping them free of it. 
The seed of the weed is apt to be introduced on the greens again in 
applications of topdressing or soil, and particularly so if woods soil 
is used.

4. Winter use of putting greens.—We have used our greens in the 
fall after the grass has become dormant and until the freezing and 
thawing made them slippery, without apparent injury. Is there any 
objection to continuing this practice through the winter at periods 
when the ground is not covered with snow or ice? (Wisconsin )

Answer.—Most golf clubs now use their greens throughout the 
winter except at times when the ground is freezing and thawing at 

Nov. 16. 1925

UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

261

which time temporary greens should be made on the fairways. Put­
ting greens should never be used when subject to intermittent freez­
ing and thawing, nor when in a soggy condition in the winter.

5. Standards for length of golf holes.—We are getting the ground 
in shape^to put in 18 holes next spring, and would like to know if 
there is a regulation as to length of holes; and if not, we would like 
to know what lengths would be best to give a variety of play. (Okla­
homa.)

Answer.—In recent years there has been a marked tendency to 
standardize on the length of holes. The present ideas are that from 
6,200 to 6,500 yards is the ideal length. Three-shot holes (that is, 
holes over 500 yards in length) are disappearing, but they may be 
used where they are especially desirable for the topography. The 
length of the hole, of course, varies with the slope of the green, the 
character of the soil, and other conditions; but in general a typical 
golf course would be about as follows: 1 hole from 130 to 140 yards 
in length; 2 from 165 to 180 yards; 1 of 225 yards; 5 from 320 to 
370 yards. The holes in this group are of the drive-and-pitch type. 
Where the ground necessitates it, there may be a hole of 280 to 310 
yards. This would be a hole of the elbow type; that is, the drive 
should reach about 240 yards for the second or pitch shot to reach 
the green. In holes of this type there is commonly a severe hazard 
in the angle of the elbow for the purpose of making a very difficult 
shot for the man who makes the short drive. The eight other holes 
are of the two-shot type, and they vary all the way from 400 yards 
to 480 yards, and sometimes up to 500 yards. In general, this series 
of holes should vary by about 10 yards difference in length. Of 
course, this can not be done accurately, but must be determined on 
the basis of the topography.

Length is not the only consideration. One architect has made the 
statement, which seems to be quite true, that a good golf course con­
sists of 18 holes, each a good one of its type. The ideal of 6,000 to 
6,500 yards has been over-emphasized. Doubtless American golf 
courses would be better if there were more 1-shot holes; but this 
unfortunately slows up play so much that the limiting of 1-shot holes 
to four or five holes is almost universally adopted. Where there are 
too many full 2-shot holes they become monotonous. There is much 
more variety of play possible on the drive-and-pitch type of hole, 
and therefore at least five of these would seem desirable, although 
more would do no harm.

Bear in mind that this is all very general, as it would be impos­
sible, in the case of a golf course, to lay out any such definite speci­
fications as an engineer would lay out for a bridge or a building.

6. Drainage and brown-patch.—Last summer we built a green in 
what had been a small valley of virgin timber. The place was very 
soggy, with a couple of springs. We raised the green 2i/2 feet above 
the level of the springs, and completely circled it with two small 
brooks. The soil was very black. From this soil we made the top 
four or five inches of the green, and beneath this is 2 feet or more of 
blue clay. Below that level there seems to be a good deal of seepage 

262

BULLETIN OF GREEN SECTION OF THE Vo1-5- No U

water. We also tiled the green at a depth of about 1 foot, and at 
intervals of about 20 feet. After a rain this tile shows good drainage. 
The green was planted with creeping bent stolons the first week in 
September. The growth was at first much better on the raised por­
tions, but this last spring it became uniformly good. From that 
time, however, it has not done well at all. It was seriously attacked 
this summer with large brown-patch. We treated it with both Bor­
deaux mixture and mercury compounds, and topdressed frequently 
but lightly. In putting in the cups we found that the top two or 
three inches of the soil had packed down very hard and that beneath 
that the soil was fairly soggy and of a disagreeable odor. We tried 
a light dressing of lime, which counteracted the odor to some extent. 
On the hillside just above the back of the green is an old tree which 
overhangs a portion of the green. Smaller trees surround the green 
on all but the approach side. The hollow is so far below most of the 
rest of the course, and has so many trees, that there is undoubtedly 
a certain amount of air-pocketing. We have, however, cut away 
some of these trees. Lately we have been spiking the green and 
topdressing with 90 percent sand in the hopes of opening up the 
hard crust. The creeping bent on all of our other greens has given 
excellent results. (Ohio.)

Answer.—We think the trouble on your green is poor drainage, 
both as regards the soil and the surrounding air. It is on such greens 
that brown-patch is always the worst. The air drainage should be 
corrected as much as possible by the removal of any trees which 
obstruct free circulation of air over the surface of the green, and 
the soil drainage must be improved at all hazards if continued trouble 
with the green is to be avoided. The best way to improve the soil 
drainage is to build up the green so that you have at least 3 feet of 
well-drained soil above the water-table. The use of tile is not neces­
sary if the 3 feet of soil is of such a character that water will seep 
through it readily.

7. Topdressing with sand for winter protection.—A greenkeeper 
of considerable experience has advised the use of a topdressing of 
sand to carry our bent greens through the winter. What is your 
opinion in this matter? (Illinois.)

Answer.—Our experiments with topdressings of sand have been 
very unsatisfactory, indicating that they are harmful to turf. When 
sand is used as a topdressing the tendency is to use it altogether too 
liberally. A very light topdressing of sand would probably do no 
harm, although we can not see that it would do any good. Moreover, 
when used on heavy loam soils, there is a tendency in sand to form 
a sort of cement-like, hard crust. We would advise you to use only 
a topdressing of a loamy consistency, preferably a compost of loam, 
well-rotted manure or some similar organic matter, and a proportion 
of sand so as to make the mixture relatively light. This dressing 
should be applied evenly, at a rate of about 1 cubic yard to 5,000 
square feet. What is, however, vitally essential to maintain greens 
over winter is adequate drainage, and we would suggest that above 
all things else you provide suitable drainage—surface drainage if 
that will answer, and subdrainage if necessary—for any spots on 
your greens which are not adequately drained already.

Nov. 16, 1925

UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION

263

8. Winter covering of putting greens with straw or manure.—We 
planted two putting greens with bent stolons the middle of Septem­
ber. The stolons started to grow very well, but recent dry weather 
and cold nights have stopped their growth. Would you advise cov­
ering the turf with straw or light straw manure for the winter? 
(Maryland.)

Answer.—While the covering of putting greens with straw or 
manure over winter has seemed to give good results in certain cases 
farther north, we would not advise it for your latitude. Often such 
coverings, instead of benefiting the turf, kill it out in spots by smoth­
ering the grass. A fairly good topdressing with compost for the 
winter months is all that is needed for your greens.

9. Time required in acidifying soil for effective weed control.— 
Our soil is only very slightly acid, the ph. reading being 6.1. Have 
you any information that would indicate the length of time that 
would be required under the usual treatment with ammonium sulfate 
to render this soil sufficiently acid to prevent the growth of white 
clover, chickweed, and other weeds? (Indiana.)

Answer.—The acidity of your soil is approximately the same as 
was the acidity of our soil at Arlington Experimental Farm at the 
time we started using ammonium sulfate on the plots. It has re­
quired about three years there to get rid of clover by using am­
monium sulfate at the rate of 6i/2 pounds per 1,000 square feet 
applied six times during the growing season at intervals of one 
month. We would not, however, advise you to use ammonium sulfate 
on your greens at a 6 V2-pound rate. To avoid burning, the applica­
tions should not exceed 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet in the spring 
and fall nor more than 3 pounds during the hot summer months. 
The lighter applications can be used more frequently than once a 
month, and in all cases should at once be followed by sufficient 
sprinkling to insure that the chemical is entirely washed off the leaves 
of the grass, otherwise burning is very apt to result.

10. Barnyard manure substitutes.—We are building a new golf 
course, and the architect specifies a large quantity of stable manure 
to be used on both the greens and the fairways. It is impossible to 
secure stable manure here, and to attempt to buy it and have it 
shipped in carloads would be prohibitive. We are securing from time 
to time the little we can get in the neighborhood, for composting in 
connection with the upkeep of our old course. What fertilizer would 
you recommend as a substitute for the manure? (Pennsylvania.)
Answer.—In the past there has been a tendency to use too much 
manure in preparing soil for putting greens. A modest amount is 
all right. As for the actual fertilizing of turf, this can be controlled 
from above by applications of ammonium sulfate or ammonium phos­
phate and topdressings. Your attention is invited to the article in 
The Bulletin, Vol. IV (1924), page 141. In the absence of barn­
yard manure we would recommend tankage or fish scrap as the 
organic fertilizing element for your soil. Our results with bone meal 
are not altogether satisfactory. Bone meal contains lime to such an 
extent that it greatly encourages the growth of weeds, and the use 
of lime in any form should be avoided.

Meditations of a Peripatetic Golfer

The most important -thing on any golf course is tn- maintain good, not 

mediocre, putting greens.- —

You can not, even in the South, have good putting greens one-half of the year 

if they are neglected the other half.

Centipede grass is a wonderful fairway grass over the sandy regions of the 

South. Let us give you a start.

There are probably as many strains of Bermuda grass as of bent. That 

means hundreds of them.

If you develop really first-class putting greens your neighborhood clubs are 

pretty sure to adopt your methods.

The use of ammonium sulfate and good compost topdressing will make 

Bermuda greens of exquisite quality.

There is no basis for the idea that cold water from wells or springs harms 

grass turf.

A golf club has some moral responsibility to its employees. To put any one 
of them in a position where he can be bribed by unscrupulous salesmen is not 
only poor business, but a culpable wrong, morally indefensible.

A long putt in golf is not nearly as trying a shot as is the short drive. A 
short drive worries the golfer a whole lot more than the long putt, provided the 
green is good.

Over the hill to the blind green is nearly as much a tragedy as “over the hills 

to the poorhouse.”

If a golf architect were a real artist it would not be nearly so easy to recog­

nize his work at first sight.

Fertilizer, especially ammonium sulfate or ammonium phosphate, has a mar­

velous effect on thickening thin turf.