THE BULLETIN 

of the 

UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION GREEN SECTION

Vol. 6 

Washington, D. C., November, 1926 

No. 11

Contents

Page
Cameron B. Buxton...................................................................................................  230
All-The-Year-Around-Greens. By W. G. Thomas, Charlotte Country Club, 

Charlotte, N. C.................................................................................................... 231
A British Golf Course Architect’s Plan.....................................................   232
Appointment of H. L. Westover............................................................................  233
Working Instructions for the Maintenance Staff. By C. H. L. Knuth...........  233
Commercial Fertilizers. By H. L. Westover...................................................... 234
Range of Adaptation of the Most Important Turf Grasses............................. 243
Questions and Answers............................................................................................ 245

OFFICERS

Russell A. Oakley, Chairman, Washington, 

Walter S. Harban, Vice Chairman, Washing­

H. L. Westover, Acting Chairman, Washing­

D. C.

ton, D. C.

ton, D. C.

Charles H. Sabin, Treasurer, New York, N. Y. 

James Francis Burke, General Counsel, Pitts­

burgh, Pa.

G. T. Cunningham, Executive Secretary, Wash­

H. Kendall Read, Secretary, Philadelphia, Pa.

ington, D. C.

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

Wynant D. Vanderpool, Chairman, Newark, 

N. J.

H. Y. Barrow, New York, N. Y.

Walter S. Harban, Washington, D. C. 
Russell A. Oakley. Washington, D. C, 
H. Kendall Read, Philadelphia, Pa.

H. Y. Barrow, New York, N. Y. 
William F. Brooks, Minneapolis, Minn. 
Walter S. Harban, Washington. D. C. 
Frederic C. Hood, Watertown, Mass.

Norman Macbeth, Los Angeles, Calif. 
Russell A. Oakley, Washington, D. C.
H. Kendall Read, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Wynant D. Vanderpool, Newark, N. J.

DIRECTORS

The Bulletin is published monthly by the United States Golf Association Green Section, P. O. 

Box 313, Washington, D. C., at Room 7207, Building F, 7th and B Streets N. W.

Address all MAIL to P. O. Box 313, Pennsylvania Avenue Station, Washington, D. C.

Send TELEGRAMS to Room 7207, Building F, 7th and B N. W., Washington, D. C.

Subscription Price: To golf clubs that are members of the United States Golf Association 

Green Section, S4.00 per year (included in membership fee).

Entered as second-class matter April 21. 1025, at the postoffice at Washington, D. C., under 
the Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted. 1926. by the United States Golf Association Green Section.

230

November, 1926

ADVISORY MEMBERS

W. A. Alexander, Chicago, Ill. 
Eberhard Anheuser, St. Louis, Mo. 
A. C. U. Berry, Portland, Oreg.
N. S. Campbell, Providence, R. I.
Wm. C. Fownes, Jr., Pittsburgh, Pa.
F. H. Hillman, Washington, D. C, 
Thos. P. Hinman, Atlanta, Ga.
A. J. Hood, Detroit, Mich.
K. F. Kellerman, Washington, D. C.

E. J. Marshall, Toledo, Ohio.
Sherrill Sherman, Utica, N. Y. 
Frederick Snare, Havana, Cuba.
James D. Standish, Jr., Detroit, Mich.
James L. Taylor, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
W. R. Walton, Washington, D. C. 
Alan D. Wilson, Philadelphia, Pa. 
M. H. Wilson, Jr., Cleveland, Ohio. 
Frank L. Woodward, Denver, Colo.

Cameron B. Buxton

In the recent death of Cameron B. Buxton at Philadelphia, the 
game of golf has lost an enthusiastic and constant devotee; The 
United States Golf Association, an intelligent and capable member 
of its Executive Committee; and the Green Section a loyal supporter 
and a valued member of its Advisory Board.

Active and successful as Mr. Buxton was in his business affairs, 
he was always ready to give of his time and his ability for the help 
or betterment of anything that had to do with the game of golf. 
Coming originally from the South, he lived and played golf for a 
number of years in and about Philadelphia, and for the past decade 
had returned to Texas. Owing to this situation, he not only had a 
wide knowledge of golfers and golfing conditions, but a catholic spirit 
and a broad and generous viewpoint.

Cameron Buxton was a good golfer, good enough to win the 
Philadelphia championship and to qualify in National Amateurs, but 
his outstanding characteristics and the things for which he was loved 
and will be best remembered were his good clean sportsmanship, his 
cheerful, happy disposition, his wonderful good comradeship, and his 
great ability not only to make but to keep friends.

Fairway grasses.—It rarely pays to attempt to introduce a new 
grass into fairways. If you are in a bluegrass region, your fairways 
are bound to be bluegrass; if in a bent grass region, they are bound 
to be bent; if in a Bermuda grass region, they will be Bermuda grass. 
Whatever your natural pasture grass is, seek to improve it for your 
fairways.

STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP. MANAGEMENT. ETC., OF THE BULLETIN OF THE 
UNITED STATES GOLF ASSOCIATION GREEN SECTION, PUBLISHED MONTHLY 
AT WASHINGTON, D. C., FOR OCTOBER 1, 1926.

District of Columbia, ss:

Before me, a notary public in and for the District of Columbia, personally appeared W. B. 
Lydenberg, who, having been duly sworn according to law, deposes and says that he is the business 
manager of The Bulletin of the United States Golf Association Green Section, and that the follow­
ing is, to the best of his knowledge and belief, a true statement of the ownership, management, 
etc., of the aforesaid publication for the date shown in the above caption, required by the Act of 
August 21, 1912, embodied in section -111, Postal Laws and Regulations, to wit:

1. That the names and addresses of the publisher, editor, managing editor, and business 
manager are: Publisher, United States Golf Association Green Section, P. O. Box 313, Wash­
ington, D. C. ; editor and managing editor, K. A. Oakley, Washington, D. C. ; business manager 
W. B. Lydenberg, Washington, D. C.

2. That the owner is The United States Golf Association Green Section, a corporation organ­
ized and existing under the law not for profit and having no capital stock. R. A Oakley chair­
man ; W. B. Lydenberg, executive secretary, P. O. Box 313, Washington, D. C.
3. That there are no outstanding bonds, mortgages, or other securities.

Sworn to and subscribed before me this 1st day of October, 1926.

(Signed) W. B. LADENBERG,, Business Manager.

^SeaI, 

(My commission expires August 6, 1927).

(Signed) BERNARD CONNOR.

November, 1926

231

All-The-Y ear-Ar ound-Greens
By W. G. Thomas, Charlotte Country Club, Charlotte, N. C.

In trying to work out a satisfactory solution of the all-the-year- 
around putting greens, our Committee has done considerable experi­
menting. Our greens were originally all Bermuda, and by careful 
attention could be kept in good playing condition during the growing 
period of Bermuda grass, which normally in our location is from 
about May 1 to November 15. During the balance of the year we were 
forced to make use of temporary greens heavily sanded. These 
proved very unsatisfactory, since it was almost impossible to keep 
enough sand on the greens to make a satisfactory putting surface on 
account of the frequent rains and winds that this section is subject 
to during the winter months.

Our first trial was with Italian rye-grass sown on the Bermuda 
greens in November. This method was discarded mainly on account 
of our failure in getting a smooth putting surface and the retarding 
effect it had on the growth of the Bermuda in the early spring 
months. Our next move was to try redtop mixed with fescue, which 
proved somewhat more successful, but was not entirely satisfactory 
for two reasons: first, it was difficult to get a good stand; second, 
the trouble encountered in getting the fescue out of the Bermuda 
the next spring and summer. It has a tendency to grow in tufts 
which make the greens very rough. Finally we tried redtop alone, 
which has proved very satisfactory during the past winter and 
spring.

Between October 1 and 15 prepare one-half of the regular putting 

green for planting as follows:

By use of heavy rakes tear up the Bermuda grass on the surface, 
cut as closely as possible with mowers, and then topdress over this 
area to the extent of 14-inch or %-inch deep. Smooth off very care­
fully and then sow at the rate of 5 to 7 pounds of redtop per 1,000 
square feet; cover by running the back of the rake lightly over the 
surface, then roll with a light roller. Water immediately if the 
ground is dry—continue to water throughout the winter if needed, 
just as you do your summer greens. To obtain the best results the 
young grass should be given a topdressing of sandy loam soil mixed 
with sulfate of ammonia when about a month old, then repeat once 
or twice a month thereafter.

The redtop will furnish a splendid putting surface from about 
January 1 until June 15. At this time the redtop will begin to turn 
yellow, and it will gradually die out, no matter how much watering 
you give it.

The pure Bermuda grass side of your green by this time will be 
in condition to take care of all your play until the spots on the red- 
top side have been filled in, by planting Bermuda in them, preferably 
by the vegetative method.

We have found that a compost made of two-thirds sandy loam and 
one-third rotted cotton motes makes a very fine topdressing. These 
motes are secured mostly from a local cotton waste plant and some­
times from a cotton mattress factory. The compost is made in the 
same manner as if stable manure were used. We have found that 
about six months is all the time needed to properly rot the motes, 
which is a much shorter time than with stable manure. Sulfate of 
ammonia may be added to this mixture with good results.

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November, 1926

This year the Women’s Southern Championship was played in 
May at the Charlotte Country Club. The Southern Golfer commented 
on the condition of the course as follows: “Of course, the Charlotte 
Country Club, by some wizardry, always has greens, even when the 
others in this section are burned into a crisp by droughts, and 
although they were still on the winter greens, these were level and 
true as in midsummer.”—Editors.

A British Golf Course Architect’s Plan

Plans in both two and three dimensions, similar to that shown above are used by at least one 
firm of British course architects. Their advantages over the usual two dimension plans are 
great, not only to the man in charge of construction but to the committee, whose approval 
of the plans is required, in visualizing the architect’s idea

November, 1926

233

Appointment of H. L. Westover

At a recent meeting of the Executive Committee of the United 
States Golf Association Green Section, Mr. H. L. Westover, of the 
Office of Forage Crop Investigations, United States Department of 
Agriculture, was appointed Acting Chairman of the Green Section 
until Dr. Oakley’s return to duty in Washington. For several years 
Mr. Westover has been closely associated with Dr. Oakley in Depart­
ment of Agriculture affairs as well as in the experimental work of 
the Green Section. His name is already familiar to readers of The 
Bulletin.

Working Instructions for the Maintenance Staff*
By C. H. L. Knuth

The working force of any organization is continually subject 
to change and new recruits require a certain amount of training 
before the superintendent can leave them at their tasks with con­
fidence that the work is going forward smoothly and efficiently. 
The following general orders should be understood and adhered to 
by the maintenance staff:

General

1. Remember that the players are the first consideration on the 
course. Be on the alert at all times in case a match may come up 
unexpectedly and your work or position interferes with play.

2. Do not stop work unnecessarily to watch the play. Members 

are liable to report such matters to the Green Committee.

3. Always gather up loose papers, sticks, rubbish, etc., that the 

course may be kept in a clean, tidy condition at all times.
4. Replace divots inadvertently left by the player.
5. Never leave wheelbarrow or tools in an exposed position, and 

on no account leave tools lying in bunkers.

6. Report to the greenkeeper at the first opportunity anything 
unusual that has come to your notice, such as broken fences, flag 
sticks, hoof marks, washouts, etc.

7. Answer all questions from players civilly and concisely.

Instructions to Greensmen
Mowing Greens

1. Do not touch adjustment on mower; report immediately to 

greenkeeper if machine is not working properly.

2. Keep mower well oiled, but not too much, as drippings from 
machine will make de?.d spots in grass. Always wheel the mower 
to back and off green to oil it and leave oil can in a place where it 
will not harm the grass if knocked over.

3. Outline green by circling twice. This is to give a clean-cut 

border.

4. Strike a swath through center of green at a different angle 
from previous day’s cut. Finish one-half from center to border in 
straight, even cuts from edge to edge, then repeat with other side. 
Be careful not to scar in turning at the ends.

* Reprinted from Bulletin of the Green Section of the Royal Canadian Golf Association, 

September, 1926.

234 

November, 1926

5. Pile the clippings in a tidy heap, well away from the playing 

area, for removal to compost heap.

6. Carry a knife, and remove individual weeds, as dandelions, and 

plantains, when first seen.

7. Report weedy conditions, presence of worms or ants, and any 

general defect that may be observed, when first noticed.
8. Wash off mower with hose on return to barn.

Bunkers

1. Rake sand in traps by drawing from the center to the sides 

and pull the sand well up on to the turf.

2. Report if you think grass on mounds is too long, as after a 
soaking rain it might grow so fast as to escape the greenkeeper’s 
notice.

Tractor Mower Operators

1. Do not alter adjustment on gang mowers, but report to green­

keeper or engineer if the units do not appear to be working right.

2. Go over the tractor thoroughly every day to see that all oil 

and grease cups are free and lubricating properly.

3. Replenish gas, oil and water before putting tractor away at 

night.

4. Report to greenkeeper if engine is not functioning properly.
5. Maximum speed 4 to 5 M. P. H.

Commercial Fertilizers
By H. L. Westover

The term “fertilizers” is an extremely broad one, having been 
applied to all substances that are added to the soil for the purpose of 
improving its capacity to produce plant growth.

The essential elements of plant food are 10 in number, to which 
may be added three others—sodium, silicon, and chlorin—which 
seem to be useful under certain conditions. Of the essential elements, 
four—carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen—are derived directly 
or indirectly from the air and constitute 90 percent or more of all 
plant material. The remaining six essential elements—calcium, mag­
nesium, potassium, phosphorus, iron, and sulfur—are derived from 
the solid portion of the soil. While all these elements are essential, 
certain ones are more extensively used by crops than others and 
sooner or later require special attention in the way of increasing the 
available supply, particularly by applying additional amounts to the 
soil in some form, while others are used in such small quantities rela­
tive to the available supply that they rarely need consideration. The 
elements of special importance are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, 
and calcium.

Nitrogen

The amounts of nitrogen ordinarily available in nature are small. 
It is the element of the soil most used by crops and is the most expen­
sive of plant foods of commerce. It is also most elusive, as it is 
sooner or later lost to plants through change in form. Nitrogen-con­
taining compounds in plants are of special importance in relation to 
life and growth, since they form an essential part of the protoplasm, 
which is the living part of the plant cell. It is because of this rela­
tion that benefits of nitrogen are so soon displayed in the increased 

November, 1926

235

vigor of growth. Nitrogen is intimately associated with the forma­
tion of leaves and stems, resulting in greater vigor and darker green 
color. Used freely, it has a tendency to retard the development of 
flowers and to delay maturity, while excessive amounts are apt to 
render plants less resistant to disease. It is largely because of the 
beneficial effects of nitrogen to stems and leaves that it is regarded 
so highly in growing turf grasses, since these are the parts of the 
plants that the grower of fine turf is most concerned with, rather 
than the production of flowers or seeds.

The nitrogen used as a fertilizer occurs in both organic and inor­
ganic forms. The organic nitrogen is derived either from animal 
life, such as fish scrap, tankage, meat meal, and similar products, or 
from plant life, as cottonseed meal, soybean meal, and such. The 
inorganic nitrogen occurs as mineral deposits, such as nitrate of 
soda, or else is manufactured from the air, like urea, Ammo-Phos, 
and others.

Animal Nitrogenous Materials

The animal nitrogenous fertilizers come largely from the meat­
packing industries. In the United States much of the nitrogen used 
in commercial fertilizers is from this source. Other materials in this 
class include guanos, which consist largely of the excrements of birds, 
mixed with the bodies of dead birds, fragments of fish, and similar 
materials, and the by-products from fish-canning factories and fish­
salting plants.

Tankage.—Tankage is composed largely of dried animal waste 
from large abattoirs. In preparing the material, consisting of a mix­
ture of horn, hair, hoofs, meat, and other animal parts, it is first 
cooked under pressure in tanks to remove the fat, after which it is 
dried and ground. Tankage varies greatly in composition but gen­
erally carries from 4 to 9 percent nitrogen and 3 to 12 percent phos­
phoric acid. As a fertilizer for turf grasses it is fairly satisfactory,, 
though not as easily handled as bone meal. Being rather slow-acting, 
it is best suited for working into the soil just before the seed is 
sown, though good results follow its use as a topdressing. Because of 
the variability in composition, tankage should be purchased only on 
guaranteed nitrogen content.

Dried blood.—Dried blood used in fertilizers is prepared by evap­
orating, drying, and grinding. The color varies from red to black, 
according to the method employed in drying. The red blood contains 
about 13 to 15 percent nitrogen, and the black blood from 6 to 12 
percent. The red blood is more uniform in composition, due to the 
fact that the black blood often contains more refuse. As a top­
dressing for putting greens, dried blood has not given very consistent 
results. This may be partly due to the fact that the availability of 
its nitrogen is somewhat uncertain, depending very largely on the 
character of the soil to which it is applied. Its most commendable 
feature is that it may be used with safety on the finest turf.

Fish fertilizers.—Fish fertilizers, including dried fish, fish scraps, 
and other such materials, sometimes called fish guano, consist of in­
edible fish and by-products from fish-oil works, fish-canning factories, 
fish-salting plants, and other fish industries. Fish fertilizers vary 
greatly in composition, but usually contain about 8 percent nitrogen. 
While chiefly valuable for the nitrogen, they also contain considerable 
phosphoric acid. Fish fertilizers decay readily and soon become 

236 

November, 1926

available. They are used on fine turf grasses with beneficial results, 
but the odor is somewhat objectionable.

Guano.—The use of guano for agricultural purposes is an ancient 
practice. It was commonly supposed to consist of excrements of sea 
fowls, but other common constituents are fish bones and bodies of 
birds and remains of large marine animals. Most of the guano that 
comes into the market contains 5 to 8 percent nitrogen and about 9 
percent phosphoric acid. As the supply is limited, guano is seldom 
used on golf courses, though applications to any of the grasses are 
ordinarily quite beneficial.

Miscellaneous materials.—Other nitrogenous animal materials 
sometimes used in fertilizers are horn and hoof meal, waste leather 
meal, feathers, and wool and hair waste. The nitrogen in some of 
these materials is low in percentage and very slowly available in all. 
They are of little value for use in connection with turf grasses.

Vegetable Nitrogenous Materials

The materials in this class consist of the seed residues in oil fac­
tories and are limited in amount. They include cottonseed meal, 
soybean meal, castor-bean pomace, and linseed meal.

Cottonseed meal.—Cottonseed meal is manufactured from the 
decorticated seed from which the oil has been expressed. A good 
quality of meal contains 6 percent nitrogen, 3 percent phosphoric 
acid, and 2 percent potash. Highly satisfactory results have been 
obtained in many cases from the use of cottonseed meal as a topdress­
ing for turf grasses. The experiments at the Arlington Farm turf 
garden, near Washington, indicate that it is preferable to bone meal 
for this purpose, as it has increased the vigor of the grass and has 
shown less of a tendency to encourage clover and undesirable weeds. 
A suitable application is 12 to 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet 
applied at least three times during the growing season. While the 
nitrogen is not quite as readily available as that contained in sulfate 
of ammonia, the results are somewhat more lasting.

Soybean meal.—In recent years soybeans have become a very im­
portant crop in the United States. In certain sections, manufac­
turing plants have been established for the purpose of extracting oil 
from the seed. The meal that is left after the oil is extracted has 
given excellent results as a fertilizer for turf grasses, being compa­
rable to cottonseed meal. Soybean meal ordinarily contains a little 
more nitrogen and a little less phosphoric acid than cottonseed meal, 
and the two seem to be about equal in value for turf grasses. The 
value of soybean meal as a feed for livestock has a tendency to keep 
its price above its relative value for fertilizer.

Castor-bean pomace.—Castor-bean pomace is the by-product of 
castor-oil factories. Its chief use is for fertilizer purposes. It has 
no value as a stock feed. It is not quite as rich in plant-food con­
stituents as cottonseed meal, usually containing about 5i/> percent 
nitrogen, 2 percent phosphoric acid, and 1 percent potash?

Linseed meal.—Linseed meal is the residue left after extracting 
the oil from flax seed. Its extensive use as a cattle feed makes it 
too high-priced for common use as a source of nitrogen in commercial 
fertilizers. In composition it is quite similar to castor-bean pomace.
Inorganic or Mineral Compounds of Nitrogen

The materials in this class until recently came largely from 
natural deposits, but more recently large quantities have been derived 

November, 1926

237

from by-products of certain manufacturing operations, or else are 
manufactured products. Included in this group are sulfate of 
ammonia, nitrate of soda, ammonium nitrate, and potassium nitrate. 
At the present time considerable quantities of inorganic nitrogen are, 
in part at least, direct products of manufacture from the air, such as 
cyanamid, calcium nitrate, urea, and ammonium phosphate.

Sulfate of ammonia.—Sulfate of ammonia is obtained chiefly as 
a by-product in the manufacture of illuminating gas, and is exten­
sively used as a fertilizer. It usually contains about 20 percent nitro­
gen. Its chief advantages are, that it is concentrated; is a definite 
product; and is quick-acting. It should not be mixed with alkaline 
substances, like wood ashes or basic slag, otherwise nitrogen is lib­
erated in the form of ammonia. It leaches less quickly than nitrate 
of soda.

Sulfate of ammonia is one of the most satisfactory fertilizers for 
topdressing turf grasses, particularly the bents, fescues, and Ber­
muda grass. Its advantages over most other fertilizers are that it 
furnishes nitrogen, so essential to the proper growth of grasses, in a 
readily available form, and at the same time has a tendency to make 
the soil progressively more acid, thus controlling the growth of chick- 
weed, crab-grass, clover, and other weeds. As sulfate of ammonia 
is not lasting in its effects, frequent light applications are advisable. 
At the Arlington Farm turf garden monthly applications of 3 pounds 
to 1,000 square feet have given excellent results. To avoid injury 
from burning, sulfate of ammonia should be applied mixed with com­
post, or in solution, and watered in. In establishing new greens it is 
better to defer application until the grass is well started, otherwise 
much of the fertilizing value will be lost by leaching before the grass 
is able to utilize it. Furthermore, germinating grass seeds, and grass 
seedlings, are less able to resist the burning effect than established 
grass, and may be killed. No bad results have followed long con­
tinued use of sulfate of ammonia on turf grasses where they are fre­
quently topdressed with compost.

Nitrate of soda.—Nitrate of soda is a natural deposit in parts of 
South America, and ordinarily contains about 16 percent nitrogen. 
It is the most active of all nitrogenous fertilizers. It is extremely 
soluble and should be used sparingly, as it can not be retained in the 
soil. Grass responds to applications of nitrate of soda, as is shown 
by the rank growth of dark green foliage, but excessive amounts may 
produce injurious results. Unlike sulfate of ammonia, it tends to 
create an alkaline condition in the soil, thereby encouraging the 
growth of crab-grass and other weeds that prefer an alkaline soil. 
On account of its pronounced caustic effect it must be used with 
extreme care on putting greens. The rate of application recom­
mended is the same as for sulfate of ammonia.

Ammonium nitrate.—Ammonium nitrate is now being manufac­
tured in Norway. It is highly concentrated and leaves no injurious 
residue in the soil. When pure it contains about 35 percent nitrogen. 
At present the price is too high to warrant its use as a fertilizer and 
it is seldom used for this purpose.

Potassuim nitrate.—Potassium nitrate is found in a natural state 
in Egypt, India and South Africa. The impure salts contain 14 per­
cent nitrogen and 44 percent potash. Potassium nitrate is so much in 
demand for manufacturing purposes that little of it is used as a 
fertilizer.

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November, 1926

Cyanamid.—Cyanamid is one of the nitrogeneous fertilizers made 
by using the nitrogen of the air. It contains about 15 percent nitro­
gen, which is fairly quick in its action, being about equal to the nitro­
gen in sulfate of ammonia. Several tests indicate that the nitrogen 
of cyanamid is not as valuable pound for pound as the nitrogen of 
nitrate of soda or sulfate of ammonia. Cyanamid injures young 
plants unless distributed in the soil some time before planting. Unlike 
sulfate of ammonia, it tends to create an alkaline condition in the 
soil, thus encouraging certain weeds.

Calcium nitrate.—Calcium nitrate is another air product con­
taining about 15 percent nitrogen. Its chief drawback is its ten­
dency to take up moisture in a moist climate. It also has a tendency 
to make the soil alkaline.

Urea.—Urea, or Floranid, is one of the nitrogenous fertilizers 
made in Germany from the air. It is the most concentrated of all 
nitrogenous fertilizers, containing 46 percent nitrogen in a soluble 
form. Unlike most fertilizers, urea affects the acidity of the soil 
only temporarily. At the Arlington Farm turf garden, while giving 
good results, it has not proved equal to sulfate of ammonia or Ammo- 
Phos.

Ammonium phosphate.—Ammonium phosphate is generally 
classed with the fertilizers manufactured from the air, though only 
partially an air product. The ordinary brand of commerce, sold 
under the name Ammo-Phos, comes in two grades, one with 17 per­
cent nitrogen or 20 percent ammonia and 20 percent phosphoric acid, 
and the other with about 11 percent nitrogen or 14 percent ammonia 
and 48 percent phosphoric acid. This is one of the quick-acting fer­
tilizers, and like other quick-acting materials results are not lasting. 
In tests at the Arlington Farm turf garden ammonium phosphate 
and sulfate of ammonia have given comparable results. Both increase 
the vigor of the grass and at the same time tend to check the growth 
of weeds that prefer an alkaline soil. To avoid burning the grass, 
ammonium phosphate should be applied mixed with compost, or in 
solution, and watered in. Monthly applications of 3 pounds per 1,000 
square feet have given good results.

Phosphorus

Phosphorous compounds are found everywhere in the soil and are 
of great value in their relation to plants. Phosphorus occurs in the 
seeds in larger amounts than in any other part of the plant, and for 
this reason plants like the small grains, in which seed production is 
the important feature, require more than the grasses, where vigorous 
vegetative growth is the end sought. Most soils have sufficient phos­
phorus for growing turf grasses, especially where manure has been 
used in preparing the seed bed, while compost used as a topdressing 
on putting greens ordinarily maintains an ample supply. When used 
too freely, phosphorus encourages the growth of clover and other 
weeds that are objectionable on golf greens. The leading commer­
cial sources of phosphorus as a plant food include bone meal, super­
phosphates, basic slag, and raw rock.

Bone meal.—Two kinds of bone meal are found on the market. 
They are known as “raw bone” and “steamed bone.” The former 
receives no treatment before grinding, while the latter is first sub­
jected to superheated steam until the fat and scraps of meat have 
been removed. The “steamed bone” is the form most commonly used 

November, 1926

239

and is said to be somewhat more readily available than the “raw 
bone.” Whether raw or steamed, the value of bone meal depends to 
a large extent upon the degree of fineness. The finer the particles 
are the more quickly they become available. A good grade of bone 
meal contains from 3 to 5 percent nitrogen and 18 to 20 percent phos­
phoric acid.

Where soils are low in fertility and where well-rotted manure is 
not available, bone meal worked into the soil before the seed is sown 
will ordinarily be found of material benefit in establishing turf 
grasses. It may also be used to advantage for topdressing fairways, 
where a uniform turf is not particularly important. When used as 
a topdressing on putting greens it increases the vigor of the grass 
but at the same time tends to encourage clover and other weeds to a 
greater extent than does cottonseed meal. It is the common practice 
to apply bone meal in the spring, but there is some evidence to indi­
cate that better results follow winter applications. Fifteen to 20 
pounds per 1,000 square feet is the rate of application usually recom­
mended for topdressing. When incorporated with the soil, somewhat 
larger amounts may be used to advantage. Bone meal is easily 
applied, and no burning or other injurious effects have ever been 
observed from its use.

Superphosphates.—The superphosphates include acid phosphate, 
dissolved bone, and bone black. Of these, the acid phosphate is by 
far the most important commercially. It is made by treating phos­
phate rock, which occurs in nature, with sulfuric acid, thereby 
changing the phosphorus into a form that is available to the plant. 
While somewhat variable in composition, the grade ordinarily sold 
on the market contains 16 percent phosphoric acid. The concen­
trated or double superphosphates, which are made by further treat­
ment of 16 percent acid phosphate, contain as high as 44 percent 
phosphoric acid. If well made, the superphosphates are free from 
acid, and while readily available to the plant are not easily washed 
from the soil. Superphosphates should be used rather sparingly on 
golf courses, particularly on bent-grass greens, as they tend to en­
courage the growth of clover.

Basic slag.—Basic slag is a waste product from the manufacture 
of steel. It is variable in composition but usually contains from 16 
to 19 percent phosphoric acid. The availability is dependent to a 
large extent upon the fineness of division. Repeated applications of 
basic slag reduce the soil acidity and thereby have a tendency to 
bring in clover and other plants requiring an alkaline condition. For 
this reason it is not recommended for use on putting greens where a 
pure stand of grass is desired.

Raw rock phosphate, or floats.—Raw rock phosphate is made by 
grinding phosphate rocks, which occur in parts of South Carolina, 
Florida, Tennessee, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana. The raw rock 
phosphates are insoluble in water and are incapable of furnishing 
plant food directly, but must decay first; hence their usefulness 
depends upon decay or a change to such a form as is available to 
plants. The rate of decay depends to a considerable extent on the 
fineness of division. As the raw rock phosphate is slow in decaying, 
its effects are not apparent for some considerable time after apply­
ing. It is of little value in growing fine turf grasses.

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November, 1926

Potassium

Potassium plays a very peculiar role in plant growth. It is most 
abundant in young and growing parts, where activity is greatest, 
and least abundant in parts that have ceased to grow. Potassium 
compounds are absolutely essential in order that the plant may pro­
duce starch, sugar, cellulose, and other carbohydrates. It is also 
believed to aid in transference of starch from one part of the plant 
to another. It is most abundant in stems and leaves, and, where 
deficient, stems are apt to b$ weak and brittle. Most soils carry 
enough potassium for turf grasses. Any deficiency that exists is 
usually remedied if manure is used in preparing land for sowing, or 
by subsequent topdressings with compost. Heavy applications of 
potassium on fairways or putting greens are undesirable, as they 
promote the growth of clover.

Wood ashes.—Until the discovery of mines of crude potash salts 
the chief, source of potash other than that contained in stable manure 
was wood ashes, which may contain from 2^ to 12 percent potash, 
though as offered on the market the amount usually varies from 3 
to 8 percent. Softwood ashes contain less potash than hardwood 
ashes, while coal ashes and unprotected ashes from sawmills where 
softwood is burned are of little value. Although generally regarded 
as a potash fertilizer, ashes also carry 30 to 35 percent calcium oxid 
and a small amount of phosphoric acid. Wood ashes correct acidity, 
improve the mechanical condition of the soil, and aid nitrification, 
but since they encourage the growth of clover they are not desirable 
for use on putting greens.

Muriate of potash.—Muriate of potash (potassium chlorid) is a 
product prepared from the crude materials of the German potash 
mines, purified by special treatment. It varies in composition, but 
most of that offered on the market is guaranteed to contain the equiv­
alent of 50 percent actual potash (IGO). Muriate of potash is the 
most generally used of the potash salts.

Sulfate of potash.—Sulfate of potash (potassium sulfate) is an­
other of the manufactured products of the German potash mines. It 
comes on the market in two grades, the more common form contain­
ing 48 percent potash (IGO).

Potassium carbonate.—Potassium carbonate is used to some ex­
tent as a fertilizer and to some extent on compost heaps. It contains 
65 percent potash (IGO) and is recommended where chlorids and 
sulfates are to be avoided, as for instance in the growing of tobacco.
Potassium nitrate.—Potassium nitrate is one of the oldest and 
best-known sources of potash. In addition to the 12 to 14 percent 
nitrogen, it has 44^ to 451/2 percent potash. It is especially valuable 
where it is desired to avoid sulfates or chlorids, but the supply is 
limited and the price high.

Mixed Fertilizers

Mixed fertilizers, as the name implies, are preparations made by 
mixing plant-food materials of different kinds. The materials used 
include manufactured products, substances in or from natural 
deposits, and by-products from various industries. Their agricultural 
value depends chiefly upon the forms and amounts of the three plant­
food elements, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Mixed fer­
tilizers are either complete, carrying all three elements, or incom­
plete, carrying only one of two elements.

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241

In nearly all states manufacturers are required by law to indicate 
on each package of mixed fertilizer the percentage of nitrogen, phos­
phoric acid, and potash contained. They should also be, and in some 
states are, required to show the kind of material used in the mixture. 
The analysis of a fertilizer may show a high percentage of nitrogen, 
for instance, and yet it may have a low agricultural value due to the 
fact that the nitrogen is in a form that is very slowly available to 
the plant. Leather waste, hoofs, horns, and hair carry a high per­
centage of nitrogen, yet unless treated so as to make them soluble 
they are of little value as a fertilizer, since they decay so slowly. 
Until a fertilizer goes into solution it can not benefit a growing plant.
Many of the large fertilizer companies put out special fertilizers 
for special purposes. These are sometimes put out under a brand­
name, though many of the larger companies have discarded the prac­
tice and designate their fertilizers by their composition, as 3-8-3 or 
3-8-6 goods. These figures refer to the parts per 100 of nitrogen, 
phosphoric acid, and potash, in the order named. In some localities 
the order of nitrogen and phosphoric acid is reversed. The purchaser 
of mixed fertilizer always gets considerable filler and pays consider­
ably more for the various ingredients than if purchased separately.
While mixed fertilizers are used to advantage under certain con­
ditions, particularly in preparing land for grass, it is usually better 
to avoid them in growing turf. Fertilizers containing phosphorus 
and potash tend to encourage clover and various weeds, and most 
soils contain sufficient of these elements for turf grasses. Any defi­
ciency that may exist is remedied where manure is incorporated with 
the soil in preparing it for a putting green. Topdressings of com­
post furnish additional phosphorus and potash, nitrogen being the 
only plant food required in larger amounts. In seeding fairways 
where the soil is poor and manure not available, mixed fertilizers 
are sometimes used to advantage. Even here, however, the percent­
age of nitrogen should be high in proportion to phosphorus and pot­
ash, and in a form that will be available within a reasonable length 
of time.

Lime

The basic substance in the various lime materials is calcium. In 
plants calcium strengthens the cell walls, encourages the growth of 
root hairs, and appears to be associated with the transference of 
starch within the plant, it is found mainly in the stems and leaves.

Lime is one of the indirect fertilizers—that is, it favorably in­
fluences crop growth through the effect on the soil rather than 
through the addition of plant food. It is contained in most soils 
in sufficient quantities for plant growth, though certain plants are 
benefited by applications of lime.

The calcium compounds available for agricultural use as indirect 
fertilizers are calcium oxid, calcium hydroxid, calcium carbonate, 
and calcium sulfate.

The calcium oxid, otherwise known as burned lime, caustic lime, 
quick lime, unslaked lime, and lump lime, is prepared by heating at 
a sufficiently high temperature any form of carbonate of lime, as 
limestone, oyster shells, or shell marl. When pure it contains 71.4 
percent calcium. Burned lime, when applied to the soil, changes 
very quickly to hydrated lime, and sooner or later to carbonate of 
lime, in which form it does most of its work.

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November, 1926

When calcium oxid comes in contact with water it undergoes a 
change known as slaking, resulting in the production of a chemical 
compound known as calcium hydroxid, which in everyday parlance 
is slaked lime or hydrated lime. This represents burned lime diluted 
by combination with about one-third its weight of water.

Ground lime and ground oyster shells are just what the names 
imply and are the carbonate form of calcium, which is more dilute 
than either the burned lime or hydrated lime.

Calcium sulfate, otherwise known as gypsum or land plaster, is 
a compound of calcium and sulfuric acid. It is particularly bene­
ficial to leguminous crops. Unlike the calcium compounds previously 
discussed, its continued use has a tendency to increase the acidity of 
the soil.

To furnish the same amount of calcium as is contained in 100 
pounds of burned lime requires 130 pounds of hydrated lime, 180 
pounds of ground limestone, and 310 pounds of gypsum.

Lime is of benefit in various ways. It makes available insoluble 
forms of plant food, especially in compounds containing potassium 
and phosphorus; it neutralizes the effects of compounds that inter­
fere with plant growth, such as acid and toxins; it favors the decom­
position of organic matter; it makes conditions more favorable to the 
action of certain bacteria; it improves the physical character of 
sticky clay soils; and it has a tendency to check certain diseases.

Injurious results may follow the injudicious use of lime. Used 
too freely, burned lime results in the loss of organic matter through 
too rapid decomposition; it results in the loss of nitrates by furnish­
ing them faster than the plants can use them; it checks nitrifying 
organisms; and it encourages certain diseases. Certain plants, par­
ticularly the legumes, require an excess of lime in the soil for their 
best development, while others do best in an acid soil. The latter 
seems to be the case with most turf grasses, particularly the bents 
and fescues. Bluegrass is believed to be a lime-lover, mainly because 
of the wonderful bluegrass characteristics of the calcareous soils. 
But calcareous soils are notoriously rich, and it is equally probable 
that the fine bluegrass turf is due to the high quality of the soil and 
not to the lime specifically. At any rate, bluegrass of high quality 
can be found on soils poor in lime, especially if they are high in plant 
food. When lime is applied to the soil it creates a condition favorable 
to the growth of clovers and weeds, particularly crab-grass, and for 
this and other reasons is not recommended in growing turf grasses.

The golf course village.—It is often the case that in establishing 
a golf course both the necessity and the desirability arise of planning 
in some measure for the growth of a village in its neighborhood. If 
such a village is thoughtfully planned during its inception or early 
stages of growth it goes a long way toward materially enhancing 
the attractiveness of the golf course. The subject of rural village 
planning has been studied in detail by Department of Agriculture 
experts, and the results of their studies have been published in a 
45-page bulletin, extensively illustrated, which is available without 
charge to interested persons upon application to the United States 
Department of Agriculture. This is Farmers’ Bulletin No. 1441, 
“Rural Planning; the Village.” It discusses, among other matters’ 
the problems of streets, parks, river-bank improvements, railway and 
trolley approaches, waterfronts, sanitation, roads, and public build­
ings.

November, 1926

243

Range of Adaptation of the Most Important Turf Grasses

That many clubs are doubtful as to which of the turf grasses is 
best suited to their local conditions is indicated by letters frequently 
received by the Green Section. To assist these clubs in solving their 
problem the accompanying maps are reprinted from Volume II of 
The Bulletin.

Map I. Kentucky bluegrass, redtop and white clover. The hatched area is that in 
which Kentucky bluegrass succeeds best. White clover and redtop occupy the same 
area, but both thrive well much farther southward.

Map II. Bent grasses and red fescue. The double-hatched area is that in which creep­
ing. velvet, and Rhode Island bents, and red fescue succeed well; the single-hatched area, 
that in which they need good care to succeed, although red fescue rarely succeeds south 
of the double-hatched area.

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November, 1926

On many courses, both northern and southern grasses will be 
found in competition, and in these cases experimental work is always 
advisable and may lead to most interesting conclusions, comparable 
in importance to Mr. W. E. Barret’s experimental work at the Her­
mitage Country Club in Richmond, Va.

On the other hand, for Maine to plant Bermuda grass or Louis­
iana to try creeping bent is a waste of time and money; yet experi­
ments of this kind have been brought to our attention.

Map III. Bermuda grass. The double-hatched area is that in which Bermuda grass suc­
ceeds best; the single-hatched, that in which it competes with blue grass and other grasses.

Map IV. Carpet grass. The hatched area is that in which carpet grass is adapted.

Sand for compost should pass a 14-inch-mesh screen. If you can 
not get a fine and uniform grade of sand, it is advisable by all means 
to screen it.

November, 1926

245

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

All questions sent to the Green Section will be answered in a letter 
to the writer as promptly as possible. The more interesting of these 
questions, with concise answers, will appear in this column each month. If 
your experience leads you to disagree with any answer given in this column, 
it is your privilege and duty to write to the Green Section.

While most of the answers are of general application, please bear in 
mind that each recommendation is intended specifically for the locality 
designated at the end of the question.

1. Topdressing with pure sand in fall.—The question arises as to 
whether we should cover our greens for the winter or leave them un­
covered. Heretofore we have given the greens a light topdressing of 
sand alone and found that this gave us good surface drainage and 
little or no winterkill. However, some think a heavy compost top­
dressing better. We should be glad to know your experience in such 
matters. We have found cases in which a heavy topdressing on 
greens over winter has caked and held the water, to the injury of 
the grass. (Illinois.)

Answer.—We have topdressed greens with sand and other mate­
rials over winter and have obtained best results from a topdressing 
of compost to which a little more sand has been added than is cus­
tomary with compost used during the growing season. Compost of 
this character, applied at a rate not to exceed 1 cubic yard to 5,000 
square feet of surface, is not liable to pack or cake over winter.

2. Grasses for sandy soils in the North.—We are constructing a 
golf course on land which contains quite a bit of sand. The vegeta­
tion on this soil consists of scrub pine and a few scrub oaks. We re­
alize it will be more or less difficult to grow grass on this sort of soil, 
and are writing for your advice as to what is the best procedure in 
the preparation of fairways and putting greens. (New York.)

Answer.—It is very difficult to grow turf on land that is very 
sandy. If any grasses will succeed on the land in its raw state it will 
be Rhode Island bent and red fescue; it is extremely difficult, how­
ever, to get a good stand of red fescue. White clover will also be 
a useful element, especially on the fairways. It would be much better 
if the soil could be improved. This could be done by mixing clay or 
clay loam in the top two or three inches of the soil, using sufficient 
clay to bind the particles of sand together. With careful fertilizing 
you should then be able to grow good turf, using the grasses men­
tioned above, and bent alone for the putting greens. It will pay you 
first to get the soil in good condition before attempting to grow 
grass on it.

3. Use of cinders and sand in lightening heavy clay soil.—I under­
stand that cinders have been used to good advantage in lightening 
heavy clay soil and that they are highly beneficial in the treatment 
of soils that approach the gumbo or prairie clay type. Please let me 
know how the cinders should be applied, and in what quantity. 
(Quebec.)

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November, 1926

Answer.—In the case of heavy clay soil, any granular material 
not too coarse that can be mixed with the top few inches of soil will 
help materially. Coarse sand is about the ideal for this purpose, 
while cinders or any similar material will accomplish good results. 
It takes relatively enormous quantities of such material, however, to 
modify the texture of a soil. The best way of applying the material 
is to scatter it over the surface and harrow it in well. An applica­
tion of 2 inches of sand or cinders should be harrowed into the top 
3 or not to exceed 4 inches of the soil. The amount to use, however, 
depends a good deal on the heaviness of your clay soil. Before 
making a complete application therefore it would be well to experi­
ment on a small plot of ground to ascertain the quantity of material 
needed to produce the results desired.

4. Peat-moss for putting greens.—Please let us have your 
opinion as to the value of peat-moss for putting greens. (New York.)
Answer.—We have done considerable experimental work with 
peat-moss but we can see no benefit from its use in either putting 
green maintenance or construction. All the evidence we have found 
indicates that ordinarily good soil, well drained, is all that is needed 
to start a putting green, and that turf of the highest quality can be 
maintained from this start by topdressing with soil and fertilizer. If 
used to excess we can see how actual harm might result from peat­
moss.

5. Value of seed harvested from a creeping bent nursery.— 
Having no use for our creeping bent nursery the past season we 
allowed it to go to seed and have harvested the seed from the nursery. 
Would you consider this seed of any value? (Pennsylvania.)

Answer.—We have succeeded in satisfactorily germinating seed 

harvested from creeping bent nurseries.

6. Controlling weeds in traps and bunkers.—Will you please 
tell us the best way to sterilize the soil of traps and bunkers so as to 
kill all vegetation and prevent the ingress of grass and weeds? 
(Massachusetts.)

Answer.—The chemical weed-killers mentioned in the article in 
The Bulletin, Vol. IV, page 169, are suitable for the purpose. 
Probably the cheapest of these is common salt. A saturated solution 
may be made of this and applied to the soil. An application of about 
1 quart to the square foot should be sufficient. The salt will of course 
in time wash out of the soil, so that the application will eventually 
have to be repeated.

7. Utilizing manure containing a large proportion of straw.— 
There is a hunting club about four miles from our course and it is 
anxious to contract with us to give us free all their manure if we 
will contract to keep their bins clear. This would mean about 300 
loads of manure a year. There would, of course, be a large propor­
tion of straw in the manure, since we would be obliged to clear it 
out frequently from the bins. Would you advise us to use manure 
of this character, and if so in what manner? (Ontario.)

Answer.—We would suggest that you lose no time in accepting 
the contract. We believe you could easily make use of 300 loads of 
manure a year by composting it. Even if it contains a considerable 
proportion of straw, it will compost well with soil, especially if you 

November, 1926

247

add ammonium sulfate. A number of clubs have obtained good re­
sults from mixing ammonium sulfate with straw and manure in 
compost piles, using about 100 pounds of ammonium sulfate to about 
the equivalent of a ton of dry straw, which of course would mean in 
your case considerably more than a ton of the material to get this 
amount of straw, since it would be mixed with manure. The com­
post should be kept moist and worked occasionally. It should be 
screened before using and the coarse material thrown back for fur­
ther composting. Rotary screens are very helpful for the purpose 
of screening. We have about reached the conclusion that it is prac­
tically impossible to have really first-class putting greens without 
compost. The applications should not be heavy, nor should the com­
post contain a large proportion of organic matter, such as straw and 
manure. Twenty to 30 percent, preferably 20 percent, of organic 
matter is all that is needed in the compost; the other ingredients, 
such as clay or clay loam and sand, should be added in proportions 
to suit the character of the soil on the course. The working of the 
compost can be economically done by driving over it with a harrow, 
provided the material can be spread out thickly over a rather large 
area.

8. Seeding as late as October 30.—We arc building some new fair­
ways which we are anxious to have ready for play next summer. Do 
you think it is too late to plow and seed these now, or should we 
postpone the work until spring? (Northern New York.)

Answer.—We would advise you to defer your seeding until early 
spring rather than attempt it as late as the end of October in your 
latitude. Fortunately spring seeding in your latitude gives fairly 
good results. South of that, however, spring seeding should be 
avoided whenever possible. Unless there is some special reason, 
such as danger from washouts, we should think it would be advisable 
for you to plow your land any time in the fall or early winter when 
it can be satisfactorily worked, so that it may be made into a good 
seed bed as early in the spring as possible.

9. Winter planting of bent stolons.—Please advise me whether 
or not creeping bent stolons could be successfully planted during the 
winter months. My plan would be this: Catch the soil in a moist con­
dition after a light thaw, broadcast the stolons very thickly over the 
surface, and press them firmly into the ground as they are planted. 
I would follow this with a topdressing during a spell of freezing. 
Would not this method prove satisfactory if moisture conditions were 
properly taken care of? (Missouri.)

Answer.—We should hesitate to plant stolons during the winter 
in your climate, as during the very cold weather they would be pretty 
apt to die. We believe you could safely plant them up to the end of 
November, but after that the chances are they would die. Your best 
plan would probably be to put them on the prepared ground just as 
early as you possibly can in the spring. That is not as good as late 
summer planting, but we believe you could look forward to success.
10- Applying cottonseed meal.—How is cottonseed meal applied 

as a fertilizer for putting greens? (Virginia.)

Answer.—It may be applied either straight or mixed with sand. 
You would be safe m using up to 10 pounds to 1,000 square feet, on 
putting greens.

MR. GREEN COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN:

This fall we furnished many of you with enough bent of the Washington or 
Metropolitan strains to plant two nursery rows, each 100 feet long, and you were 
perhaps discouraged because you wish to plant all your greens to one strain 
soon. So you can in two years, provided you don’t use your nursery stock 
next year.

Each of those two rows, planted from one square foot of turf, will by next fall, 
if properly cared for, have grown from a thin green line into at least 300 square 
feet of turf-—a total of 600 square feet—enough to plant one green 6,000 square 
feet in area. But don’t make the mistake of planting it. Be patient. Replant 
your 600 square feet of turf about the quality of which you have no doubt just 
as you did this fall. Then tell your Board of Directors that in 1928 you can con­
vert all your greens to the Washington or Metropolitan strain. And so you can, 
for in 1928 your 600 square feet will have become a turf garden containing 
180,000 square feet of as fine creeping bent as is known.

If your greens are very large, perhaps averaging 8,000 square feet, the area 

to be planted is 144,000 square feet.

Plant them at the rate of 1 square foot of nursery stock to 1 square foot 
of putting surface, if you wish, although 1 to 10 is absolutely safe. You will 
still have a surplus of 36,000 feet, part of which it w'ould be well to care for 
exactly as you would a green so that resodding can be done whenever advisable.

But if we receive a request from you next season for more Washington or 
Metropolitan we will know that you are probably working on an 18-year pro­
gram, so make haste slowly, cultivate your nursery, weed it, water it, and if 
necessary fertilize it.

THE GREEN SECTION.