P U B L I S H ED IN F E B R U A R Y, M A R C H, A P R I L, A U G U ST A ND S E P T E M B ER BY O. M. S C O TT & S O NS C O ., M A R Y S V I L L E, O H IO February 1939 T W E L F TH Y E AR Number 53 C H I C K W E ED double-trouble for HE RE is one weed pest that makes lawn owners by virtue of its ability to live on poor as well as rich soil. Therefore it may be found thriving on a worn-out dooryard plot or in turf that has received excel- lent care. In the latter case it is often believed the rapidity. that the Chickweed has invaded area with almost overnight Ripened or partially ripened seed may be found on the plant at any time. The seeds of this pest, being continu- ously produced, are always present in the soil. Chickweed is rapidly scat- tered by this constant seed production. Although very tiny, the seeds retain their ability for many years. One experimental station has found that these seeds sprouted after to germinate COMMON CHICKWEED fStellaria media} showing spreading habit In reality its general appearance has blended so well into the existing grass that it has been spreading unnoticed for some time. In this fashion Chickweed becomes well established before steps are taken to eradicate it. having been buried ten years. Another state extension circular reports that the seed of Chickweed has been known to remain alive buried in the soil for thirty years before germinating. With these facts in mind it is easy to understand COPYRIGHT 1939 B Y O. M . SCOTT & SON S CO. that most soils are contaminated with seed accumulated the previous from crops of this pest. It is not unlikely, then, that the "overnight invasion" gets underway in the lawn of the unsuspect- ing home owner whenever this army of seeds is given favorable conditions for germination. It goes without saying that Chickweed is a most persistent lawn pest. Two Varieties There are two varieties of Chickweed which occur most frequently in our lawns. One, known as Common Chick- weed, is an annual, while the other, Mouse-ear Chickweed, is a perennial. Common Chickweed, known botani- cally as Stellaria media, is also called Starwort, Starweed and Tongue-grass. The "star" prefix undoubtedly is based on the shape of its tiny white flowers. The Mouse-ear variety, Cerastum vul- gatum, is probably so called because of the hairy condition of its foliage. This abundance of minute hairs covering the surface of the leaves and stems im- parts a gray color to the entire plant. The soft hair resembles the fuzz of a mouse's ear, hence the name. The Common variety is a "winter annual." Most annual plants are winter killed, but this one starts out in au- tumn, lives throughout the winter and completes its life cycle during the fol- lowing spring and summer when it produces seed and dies. Its dead, brown foliage is unsightly in fine turf at that time. In the fall the new seed germi- nates and the pest starts life anew. On the other hand the roots and foliage of Mouse-ear Chickweed remain alive for an indefinite period and normally pro- duce seed every year except the first. Distinguishing Characteristics The color and shape of the leaves distinguish these two Chickweeds from one another. The annual has smooth, sometimes glossy leaves, light green in color. They are opposite and almost heart-shaped, usually being about one quarter of an inch across. The perennial has a dull gray-green color. Its leaves are also opposite, but lance-shaped with rounded tips. They are about one-half inch in length. COMMON CHICKWEED flowers have Note the heart-shaped leaves and dense mat The blossoms of the two varieties are tiny white, star- very similar. The shaped five petals set within a larger green star made up of the lance-like sepals. Actually these flowers are so small that they are al- most insignificant. They both begin to flower very early the annual blooming and producing seed right up to the time it dies. During hot midsummer the Mouse-ear variety rests from its profuse display of flowers, but blossoms out again at the first relief from the heat and continues to bloom into late fall and winter. The annual also continues to bloom and produce seed throughout the fall and winter even with snow on the ground. in the spring, Since they both belong to the Pink Family, they have many characteristics in common. Their creeping stems root at the joints as they spread out in all directions from the crown of the plant. The result is a close growing mat-like formation that escapes the lawn mower and enjoys crowding out the grass. Both weeds grow in dense patches throughout the lawn and tf allowed to spread unmolested will form a solid turf 5 or 6 feet in diameter. Control Measures in they may be becomes dormant the grass, which, being Due to the fact that neither of these cold weeds weather, successfully treated in late fall and winter without injuring in- active, is less susceptible to treatment at this time. The same treatments are ap- plicable to both varieties of Chickweed. In any event it is good practice to prevent these plants from going to seed. This cultural method of control is car- ried out by raking up the prostrate stems before closely mowing the in- fested patches. Catch the clippings in the mower basket. Destroy the flowers and seed heads by burning them, other- wise they will mature and ripen even though removed from the plant. Some greenkeepers stick by the old method of slashing an isolated patch of Chickweed in several directions with a sharp penknife. This cuts the spread- ing runners from the tap root and the plant is definitely discouraged. Follow- ing this simple operation, they reseed the spot to encourage a thick stand of grass in place of the weed. When the ground is wet this pest may be pulled out easily as it has a rela- tively shallow root system. Carefully dig out the patches with a hoe or knife and reseed the spots. Do not allow pieces of the roots or stems to remain around the edges of the patches as this will permit the pest to completely re- establish itself. This method of control is tedious and should only be under- taken on small lawns where the plants are widely scattered. Ammonium sulphate when dusted on the moist foliage burns this weed and at the same time serves as a source of nitrogen for the surrounding grass. For best results use ammonium sulphate or commercial fertilizer in the early morn- ing when the dew causes it to cling to the foliage and the sun following com- pletes the injury. If applied too heavily the grass blades might be burned con- siderably. This damage will only be temporary, however. Rake out the dead Chickweed and reseed the thin spots. Given time, the grass will usually fill in but the coverage is quicker if the spot is reseeded. information Another chemical control for Chick- weed is to spray it with a dilute solu- tion of iron sulphate. The best time to carry out such a treatment is in late October when the Common variety is just a seedling and especially sus- ceptible to this chemical. Dissolve 1 Vi pounds of iron sulphate in one gallon of water. Apply only sufficient solu- tion by means of a sprinkling can or spray pump to wet the foliage. For further the use of iron sulphate see Lawn Care issue Num- ber 6 for August 1929 A dilute solution of sodium chlorate applied to the Chickweed in somewhat the same manner is another method of control. Treated at monthly intervals during the winter the Chickweed is de- stroyed without the lawn grasses being killed. One ounce to a gallon of water is a sufficiently concentrated solution to the do the trick. Detailed directions for in use of sodium chlorate will be found the 2 for September 1928 issue of Lawn Care Number (revised). about (revised), With even insecticide, available less injury to the sur- rounding grass, calcium arsenate may be used to destroy Chickweed. This common the form of a fine white powder, may usu- ally be obtained at hardware and drug stores for approximately 25 cents per pound. By means of a perforated con- tainer this powder may be dusted on in leaves of this weed the foliage while it is still moist with dew. The turn brown and die while the chemical ap- parently has little or no effect on the intermixed grass blades. If properly ap- plied this treatment may be made any time during the spring and fall. The following season it is well to feed the grass in the areas so treated with a complete grass food. This will tend to counteract any toxic effect the chemi- cal may have had on the soil. Lawn enthusiasts should for Chickweed in their lawns at the ear- liest illustrations found on page one and two will help identify the pest. In case it is present any one of the above methods may be used to destroy it. Take steps now to keep the lawn on the weed-free side this season. opportunity. The look Sow Early The success of planting lawn seed in the spring quite frequently depends on giving it an early start. The latter part of February or early March is usually a good time to take care of this spring seeding. Planted at this early date the grass is given a better chance to survive the heat and drouth of the approaching summer. Plan to carry out this task while the soil is honeycombed with frost as sug- gested in Lawn Care for February 1937. This is before the surface soil thaws and becomes unfavorable to work on. To sow the seed on one of the last snows is also satisfactory As the snow melts the seed gradually settles into the soil without washing. At this same time distribute a com- freezing and food. The plete grass thawing will allow this source of nour- ishment to move down to the roots in a natural manner. Early spring lawn feeding gives the established grass a head start over the weed pests which seem to react more slowly at that time of the year. It also promotes a stronger start for the seedling grass. If this work is completed before frost is out of the ground it is not necessary to rake in the seed or fertilizer. Later on when the ground has thawed and the soil has dried at the surface, roll the lawn with a roller weighing not more than 100 pounds for each foot in width. The grass roots which have been heaved out of the soil during the winter will be gently pressed back in contact with the moist earth. Avoid rolling a lawn when the soil is saturated with water. That will tend to compact the clay so the roots will have difficulty in growing deeply. The shallow root system resulting will make the grass very susceptible to drouth injury. © Chickweed Cures "I had a large dose of Chickweed last fall from some topsoil that was used. I burned it with iron sulphate last fall; the pest disappeared and now the grass is better than ever. I can highly recommend iron sulphate for burning out Chickweed. There is nothing bet- ter or surer."—J. F. Ferguson 2735 South Cleveland Avenue, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. "It may interest you to know that a careful application of your Turf Builder kills chickweed and does not destroy the grass. No doubt you are fully aware of this feature."—Thomas P. Robbins, 4518 Lakeside Ave., Cleveland, Ohio. O. M. SCOTT & S O NS CO. M AR YS V I L LE • • O H IO EVERY PACKAGE OF SCOTTS L A WN SEED BEARS THIS TRADE-MARK A ND IS SEALED FOR YOUR PROTECTION