P U B L I S H ED IN F E B R U A R Y, M A R C H, A P R I L, A U G U ST A ND S E P T E M B ER BY O. M. S C O TT & S O NS CO., M A R Y S V I L L E, O H IO April 1941 F O U R T E E N TH Y E AR Number 65 M O N E Y W O RT MO N E Y W O RT OR Lysimachia numularia, as the botanists know it, was named in honor of Lysimachus, Greek General and King of Thrace, back in the third century before Christ. Moneywort, true to its heritage, makes a stubborn stand in moist, shaded areas in lawns. Our discussion of this weed, while timed with events in the Bal- kans, is inspired more by the fact that its growth has steadily become more noticeable. Like many other weeds, Moneywort has been thought to have medicinal stop the flow of blood there has always been a superstition to the effect that injured snakes crawled over the foliage of Moneywort to heal their wounds. Another name for the weed arising from this legend is Serpentaria. Many localities have given Money- wort a special name. Aside from those already mentioned, a common one is Creeping Charlie and others Creeping Jenny, Yellow Myrtle and Creeping Loosestrife. As its various nicknames imply, Moneywort is a creeping, yellow flowered perennial. It blooms from MONEYWORT (Lysimachia numularia). Note low-growing, vining habit. properties. One of its names, Loose- strife, meaning release from struggle, is evidence that the weed was thought to possess some healing powers. The bruised leaves of the plant are said to have qualities resembling those of an astringent. Because it was supposed to June to August. Its leaves have prac- tically no stems and are as round as coins, hence its most common name, money plant or Moneywort. With the exception of its leaves being arranged directly opposite one another on the main stem, Moneywort is similar in C O P Y R I G HT 1 9 4 1, BY O. M. S C O TT & S O NS C O. appearance to Thyme-leaved Speedwell. See L A WN CARE N O. 1 3, February 1 9 3 1. Moneywort vines along the surface of the ground with joints occurring about every inch along its stem. Oppo- site each of these stem joints are located its two round, waxy leaves. Wherever the joints touch the soil, roots grow out and anchor the plant in a low, prostrate position. Its habit of growth is so low that Moneywort escapes even the closest lawn mowing, unless the stems are first lifted with a rake. it in lawns. Since When favored by shade and mois- ture, Moneywort will become a serious pest likes moist ground so well, it may be discouraged by improving the drainage. It may also be controlled by hand weeding, although care should be taken to re- move every bit of stem or else a single fragment will take root at a joint and re-infest the spot. It is well to raise the runners of this pest with a rake and fol- low by mowing closely. Repeated rak- ing and mowing alternately from dif- ferent angles will eradicate it. A new type of weeding rake has recently been patented which appears to be most promising in lawn work. It resembles a large table fork with its tines bent or curved backward like a series of hooks. When used with a back and forth raking motion these curved spikes comb through the grass blades without disturbing the turf roots, but at the same time gather up the prostrate stems and foliage of matted weeds such as Moneywort and Chickweed. Its pinching action cleans the pest out by the roots more thoroughly than any- thing yet perfected. While it is seldom found in cultivated gardens, when Moneywort inhabits waste places it may be controlled by spraying with Sodium Chlorate. One pound of the chemical is dissolved in one gallon of water. This is a sufficient quantity in volume and strength to spray on 200 square feet of weed infested ground. The chlorate solution applied in this way will kill practically all vegetation with which it comes in contact. Because of the fire hazard involved Sodium Chlorate must be used with caution as discussed in L A WN CARE N O. 2 for September 1 9 2 8. Moneywort was introduced into this country from Europe as an ornamental. It has been used as a ground cover in shaded places but is definitely a pest in lawns. This weed may still be used as a decorative plant on banks and in rock gardens if the soil is not too dry. But we consider the use of Moneywort as a ground cover inadvisable because the plants are almost certain to get out of hand and eventually become a serious pest in adjacent lawns. # To Stoop Or Not To Stoop Mr. Clarence E. Wilcox of Detroit, Michigan, says: "After studying all of the various cures and panaceas against the enemies of a good lawn, I still believe that the best way to eliminate undesirable weed growth is by the knee, knife and out- by-the-roots method, plus a little Scotts Lawn Seed in the scar. While it is a slow and tedious method, it is fun if you like it. I have read that 'Cactus Jack' Garner picks up a hundred pecans every day to keep down the belt line. Pulling out Crabgrass is a better cure, in my opinion." Mr. }. Frank Hamblen of Kenyon, R. I., presents the other side: "Am amused at the back-breaking, time-wasting energy some spend on Dandelion erasure. Our lawns are very large and require four and three- quarters hours with a power mower to cut, yet with a patented weeder I have, which has two movable jaws on a long handle, I pause for an instant over each weed and then it is out, root and plant; so weeds, including Dog Grass, are the least of my troubles. No back-breaking work for mine—just a little walking." Arsenic For Lawn Weeds "I have read all your publications in L A WN CARE with a great deal of inter- est and have followed many of the sug- gestions printed therein to good advan- tage. However, I feel that you have not put sufficient emphasis on what I consider the most efficient weed eradi- cators—namely, the arsenates. "I have treated my lawn twice in six years with an application of 4 to 6 pounds per thousand square feet of lead arsenate and I don't have a single spear of chickweed or crabgrass in my lawn while the neighbors at the same time are saturated with both of the above weeds. I also have no night crawlers that build up mounds of earth and make the neighbors' lawns bumpy. "Within the past two weeks I assisted one of my neighbors in spraying his lawn with a solution of arsenic acid. Four ounces of arsenic acid dissolved in ten gallons of water were sprayed on the surface until all leaf blades were wet. Within three days every spear of crabgrass and chickweed was dead. The Bent grass was unharmed and stayed its natural green. The bluegrass was slightly scorched but within a week had recovered and was growing strong. "Arsenic acid seems to kill all broad leaf weeds that are shallow rooted. It will not kill dandelions or yellow dock permanently. It burns their tops off, but they start growing again. I believe this lawn had almost every weed that is listed in L A WN CARE and the arsenic killed all but the deep rooted plants. "We obtain arsenic from a chemical plant locally but the general public has access to any quantity of lead arsenate they want and it is fairly cheap. It is just as effective in the long run as ar- senic acid but it takes longer to act and must be applied heavier. However, it has the advantage of not even scorching the bluegrass. I consider the applica- tion of lead arsenate every two or three years just as important as the applica- tion of fertilizer."—E. L. Barthel, Mid- land, Michigan. m Ants Scampered When Machine Oil Used "Meeting with little or no success from various alleged effective concoc- tions, I finally tried three or four squirts of ordinary machine oil (such as is used in your auto) direct into the opening of each ant-hill. Use the least number of drops possible to avoid oil spread or ground saturation, which is not con- ducive to grass growth. "The success of this treatment has been phenomenal, and being economi- cal and easily applied is heartily recom- mended to anyone for a 'try-out.' I have not entered into a scientific re- search as to the effect upon the ants and what became of them, but I do know that an ant-infested lawn became free of this nuisance within a day or two after the treatment of each ant-hill as above described."—J. T. Bougher, 7124 Lincoln Drive, Philadelphia, Penna. And here is another ant story from Mr. B. A. Sweitzer of Terre Haute, Indiana, who uses gasoline rather than oil for the knockout: "I have had lots of trouble with ants. I have tried almost everything that I could get hold of. Some helped and some did not. So I figured out a remedy of my own. I found out that gasoline would kill them and the grass too, so I decided that if I could get it down to them without getting it on the grass it would do the job. "So here is my plan. First, get a rod, 24 inches long, with a wooden handle on one end, sharpen the other and then find the ant hill and make a hole in it about 12 inches deep. I made a tin tube about 14 inches long. Drop this in the hole and then take a plain oil can and put a half pint of gasoline in it, take the tube out and stop the hole with dirt, and that was the last of Mr. Ant around there. It does not injure the grass. I have gotten rid of them with it, and just thought someone might be interested in knowing about it." $ Another Scott Neighborhood Reports "In this neighborhood we have quite a collection of Scott lawn equipment and the cartoon on the front of the February L A WN CARE bulletin regard- ing the snow shovel and lawn roller is a timely reminder that it won't be long until all of us will find out who has what of the community equipment. "You will also be interested to know that all of the lawns in this neighbor- hood have been built with Scott prod- ucts and are given a treatment of Scotts Turf Builder and reseeded each spring and fall with Scotts Regular Mixture. It costs a little more but we have nice, year-'round lawns as a result." Reported by Mr. P. H. Hunter, Summer Place, Pittsburgh, Penna. Scientist Commends Lawn Care "As one who does considerable lawn mowing, your articles impress me as being very timely. As a chemist inter- ested in plants and plant products as a specialty, I find your conclusions not only interesting but scientifically sound." So writes Mr. G. Albert Hill, Hall Laboratory of Chemistry, Wes- leyan University, Middletown, Conn. The Scott Publications Lawn Care—Subjects featured in previous bulletins include: 1928 Plantain, Sodium Chlorate. 1929 Compost, Moss, Web Worms, Iron Sulphate, Buckhorn. 1930 Ground Ivy, Yarrow, Earth- worms, Heal-All, Ants. 1931 Speedwell, Creeping Buttercup, Moles, Knotweed. 1932 Sheep Sorrel, Quackgrass, Spurge, Trefoil, Goosegrass. 1933 Nimble Will, Knawel, Terraces, Shepherd's Purse, Ground Covers. 1934 Sedge, Shade, Purslane. 1935 Peppergrass, Shade, Crabgrass, 1936 Clover, Poa Annua, Henbit, Fall Summer Injury. Seeding, Foxtail. 1937 Honeycombed Soil, Grub worms, Orchard Grass, Soils, Injury from Excess Moisture. 1938 Liming, Dandelions, Chinch Bugs, Burlap Cover, Wild Garlic. 1939 Chick weed, Mowing, Dandelions, Fall Seeding, Poison Ivy. 1940 Spring Lawn Program, Organic Matter, Watering Lawns, Hor- mones and Vitamins. 1941 Winter Affects Grass, Fertilizing. A full set of bulletins with index, in stiff paper binding, will be sent for 25c. loose leaf binder which contains all L A WN CARE bulletins, with ample room for future issues—$1.00 postage paid. Binder—An attractive Good Lawns—The amateur garden- er's guide to better lawns. Contains a complete outline for building new lawns and improving old ones. Free. Bent Lawns—Illustrated new edition. Tells about the most beautiful of all lawn grasses—Scotts Creeping Bent. Free upon request. O. M. SCOTT & S O NS CO. MAR Y S V I L LE • • O H IO EVERY PACKAGE OF SCOTTS LAWN SEED BEAR^ THIS TRADEMARK AND IS SEALED FOR YOUR PROTECTION