KEEPING SPRING IN SUMMER LAWNS THIS year you can be assured of greater summertime enjoyment from your lawn than has ever before been possible. This is due to the devel- opment of the new Weed/Feed com- pound, as announced in the preceding LAWN CARE N O. 9 4. while, equipped with greater reserves of food and moisture in their thick stems and larger roots, continued fresh as daisies. Now the story is different. As your lawn enters that heretofore doldrum season it may be safely treated with the new combination of Scotts Lawn Food plus Weed Control. This pro- vides a safe, slow acting feeding and while that process is going on the weeds receive a knockout powder from which they will not recover. Some folks in the South have already reported on their experiences with the Weed/Feed material. Here is a samp- ling of their comments: . . Pleased with nice free flowing texture and almost complete absence of dust and odor." . . Tried your Weed/Feed on patches of chick weed which nothing else seemed to touch. Plants are already bleaching out so I am very hopeful." . . Used Weed/Feed last week and the results are positively amazing. We applied it Wednesday and the weeds have already turned brown." Any issue of LAWN CARE stimulates a lot of reader correspondence which is most welcome as it lets us know what you are thinking and how we may be of further help to lawn enthusiasts in general. On the back page are some of the questions brought up about the new Weed/Feed treatment after release of LAWN CARE N O. 9 4. While the story has been told over the country, we wanted to be doubly sure that readers of LAWN CARE realize there is something new and vital for the summer maintenance program. It is the easy-to-use dry compound which, when scattered over the lawn, produces the double benefit of destroying broad- leaved weeds while nourishing the grass to thicker, greener growth, both at the same time. The new process is so simple and easy that it's hard to grasp at first. But it works. What has been done is to combine the potent weed-killing fac- tor of Scotts 4-X with the best mild and slow acting sources of grass food. The combination has been "lawn tested" during recent summers, and further proven by extensive greenhouse tests during the winter months. In past years it has not been too dif- ficult to have a nice green lawn in the spring when rains were abundant and the sun not too hot. But the average lawn would go into a summer slump just when the family might enjoy it most. In spite of faithful watering, the grass took on a tired, ragged look. Most folks hesitated to feed in the sum- mer for fear of burning the grass and having it look worse. Weeds, mean- 2 Other Lawn Hints After an excessively wet and cold spring, the weather may suddenly turn hot and dry. If so, watering may need to be started earlier than suspected. Water-logged soils restrict the grass root system because oxygen is ex- cluded. As rains diminish, the upper inch or two of soil dries. Since the roots have been restricted to this zone they suffer injury unless the surface moisture is replaced. The general recommendation is to water lightly and frequently to keep this surface zone moist. As the deeper soil drains, and roots can extend, watering can be less frequent and heavier. Examine the soil occasionally by cutting a plug as you would inspect a watermelon, and replace moisture before the grass begins to wilt. The complete watering program is set forth in LAWN CARE NO. 60. Continuous rains, though they keep the grass green and lush at the time, also carry away soluble plant nutrients in the drainage water before the grass needs or can make full use of them. In addition, the rapid, lush growth of grass takes its toll of nutrients in producing unusual amounts of foliage. These are two very good reasons for giving your lawn another serving of nourishing food in the summer. Most lawns, except those of Bent- grass, thrive better in hot weather if not cut too closely. The roller should be adjusted so that the bedknife is \x/i to 2 inches above the floor level. Synchronize the frequency of cut- ting with the rate of growth. Collect clippings when they are so heavy that they may smother the grass beneath. Otherwise clippings may be collected or allowed to drop at the discretion of the lawn owner. The light mulch they furnish is slightly beneficial for mois- ture retention. See LAWN CARE NO. 54. SCOTTS LAWN CARE SIRS: Our lawn has always been more or less a poor one, but the suggestions that we received from you made us realize that our lawn from now on can be much more of a pleasure. It is our intention to feed and care for our lawn in the Scott manner. This is a great simpli- fication over our past procedure wherein a beautiful lawn resulted but twice a year; it would get terribly scorched and burned, and the waiting while its health was always embarrassing. it would again gain L. C. S. Cleveland, Ohio. Reduce Hay Fever And Ivy Poisoning Many LAWN CARE readers will want to join in the concerted effort to help get rid of ragweed and poisonous va- rieties of ivy, oak and sumac. A sub- stantial contribution can be made at lit- tle cost and effort. One less ragweed may mean one less sneeze for several victims in your own neighborhood. One less plant of poison ivy, oak or sumac may save some poor soul the awful agony, itch and rash of a severe case of poisoning. In the last two years, neighborhoods, cities and even metropolitan areas like New York City have banded together to reduce the suffering of hay fever victims by the killing of ragweed. It's easily done by spraying infested vacant lots with a material like Scotts 4-X some time between June 1 and August 10. One packet in a gallon of water makes a death spray for a thousand or more plants. Use it any day when rain is not imminent. Poison ivy, oak and sumac are a bit more difficult in that a second or third treatment may be needed. Even so, the extra effort will pay off in the satisfac- tion of a good deed done. Try to enlist your neighbors, your community and your friends in the campaign to stamp out ragweed and poison ivy. At least make a start your- self. Others will surely follow suit. NUMBER 95 Chinch Bugs Hit the Dust As announced in LAWN CARE NO. 94, Scotts Pest Control is now available as a convenience material that is easily used to keep various lawn insect pests in check. The active ingredients are DDT and SABADILLA, two war- developed chemicals which are effec- tive yet safe to use from the standpoint of humans, pets and birds. In addition Jap Beetles, Pest Control is suggested for use on the following: to the grubs of Hairy Chinch Bugs, active in hot, dry weather, June through August, can be about the most destructive of lawn pests. They are no larger than the smallest of ants. Full grown are about 14 inch in length. Chinch Bugs, working in colonies, obtain their food by piercing grass stems and sucking vital juices from them. In time the plant is severely injured or even killed. live only Since Chinch Bugs in above ground vegetation, applications of Pest Con- trol need only be made when they are at work on the grass. For further details on Chinch Bugs, see Lawn Care No. 80. Sod Webworms also feed on grass above ground, but they actually cut off the blades and drag them into their silk-lined burrows. These worms, mouse-gray in color, are about an eighth inch in diameter, a half inch long. They also are active in warm, dry weather, are controlled the same as Chinch Bugs. Army Worms and Cutworms are some- times active in lawns but they do no direct damage. However, birds may tear up turf trying to get at them. Pest Control also helps keep these species in check. form mounds as described Ants do little harm to lawns except when in Lawn they Care No. 84. Where obnoxious, their numbers can be substantially reduced by placing a pinch of Pest Control at openings to the nests. One reader got rid of two lawn pests while aiming for a third—Jap Beetle Grubs. Before DDT and Sabadilla were available he treated his lawn with lead arsenate. In his words: "This immediately stopped skunks from dig- ging up the lawn to get the grubs. As many as 100 small holes were formerly dug in one night. The best result was elimination of 3 mole damage. A mole just will not enter a treated area. I live in a wooded section with no near neighbors and moles run rampant. They approach my lawn again and again and stop."—F. H. Best, Westfield. New Jersey. SIRS: Why crab about Crabgrass? Pull out the young plants in June and later. Thirty min- utes per week, up and down the lawn with eyes glued to the turf, will do it. It's not a burden but a pleasure to think of all the later trouble and damage you'll save. C. O. RANSOM. Chemical Control For Crabgrass A lot of LAWN CARE readers are in- quiring about recent publicity on vari- ous chemicals being offered for crab- grass elimination. There is encouragement that some day a chemical will be developed that will control crabgrass the way broad- leaved weeds can now be dispersed. However, the present status is best described in the words of a Depart- ment of Agriculture official who said, "Chemical control of crabgrass is still in the experimental stage." The situa- tion is the same as reported in LAWN CARE NO. 91. We continue to test every material suggested and to check other experi- ments while keeping in close touch with the responsible research officials who are working in grasses. If used at all, chemical treatments should first be tried on a limited area to check (1) effectiveness, (2) possible damage to desirable grasses, or (3) cumulative harm to the soil. Another important factor is possible fire hazard, poison danger to children, pets or birds, discoloration of walks, the foundations, clothing and like. Some chemicals cause skin injuries, corrode equipment, and crystallize if long exposed to light. 4 Questions About the New Summer Lawn Treatment What's new? Scotts Weed/Feed compound. What is it? A clean dry powder packing the weed-killing wallop of Scotts 4-X plus a generous supply of rich grass food. Poisonous? No. Nothing to harm children, pets, birds or bees. How applied? Easily broadcast over the lawn by hand or with a Scott Spreader. Use just as it comes from the package. No mixing. No fuss. What's it do? Kills broad-leaved lawn weeds while nourishing the grass to greater vigor, brighter color. It encourages the grass to fill in spots vacated b.y weeds. Control Crabgrass? No. It does not injure any kind of grass, desirable @r undesirable. There is still no fool-proof chemical control of Crabgrass. When? Any time during the growing sea- son. June or July is ideal. Safe in hot weather. Safe on Bentgrass, too. Watered in? No. Avoid watering day applied. After that neither rain nor sprinkling interferes with action. Cost? Two jobs accomplished at no more cost than separate weeding and feeding. SCOTTS LAWN CARE On a new lawn? It's better to wait until the grass has been cut once or twice. If new grass interspersed with old—OK. Effect on seeds? Either apply two weeks before seed- ing or after young grass is established. If Turf Builder applied? All right—in fact, a good follow-up in a month, especially after an ex- tremely wet spring. Harmful to flowers and vegetables? Yes. Acts oh most of them the same as on weeds. Is Scotts 4-X still available? Yes. The most convenient for those who prefer spray application, or for Ragweed, Poison Ivy, Sumac control. What is best lawn program? MARCH-APRIL. Feed with Turf Builder. Sow Scotts Seed as needed. MAY-JUNE. Get rid of weeds, bolster grass with Scotts Lawn Food plus Weed Control. JULY. If grass is off color or thin- ning, apply again or give light feeding of Turf Builder. AUGUST. Watch for Crabgrass seed heads. Pull off or rake up and mow to prevent ripened seeds falling to ground. Catch clippings. If broad-leaved weeds are bad, apply Scotts Lawn Food plus Weed Control at least two weeks prior to planned seeding date. SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER. Feed with Turf Builder. Sow Scotts Seed to take ad- vantage of this ideal growing season. O M SCOTT & SONS COI M A R YS VILLE - - O H IO E V E RY PACKAGE OF S C O T TS LAWN CARE PRODUCTS BEARS T H IS T R A DE . MARK AND IS S E A L ED FOR YOUR P R O T E C T I ON